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DIRECTOR Y

l-Oll THK NAVIOATION 01' THE

NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN

WITH DESCUn'TIONS Of ITS

COASTS, ISLANDS, ETC.,

I'P.OM

PANAMA TO BEHRING STRAIT

AND JAPAN,

ITS WINDS, CUERENTS, AND PASSAGES.

SECOND EDITION.

BY ALEXANDER GEO.- FINDLAT, F.R.G.S.,

Honorary Mvmber of the Societa Ocografica ItaUana,

lONDON ;

PUBLISHED FOE RICHAKD HOLMES LAURIE,
63, FLEET STREET, E.G.

;St.';®ffsn.-.,«**j*---t^.-?^es^'7^-)Fw*^

•g»Y*

"'"). ,

..y

Vl<qi7 ■ 1

ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL.

f^*-

2-V

P li E F A C E.

The period whieli has elapsed since the first oditiou of tliis work appi-iired,
lias had a more in., ortaiit inihieneo ou the social and conmiorcial progress of
the world than any recorded in history, and in no part has this change
been more evident than in the countries around the North Pacilic Ocean.

Twenty years ago Califoniia was little more than the hunting groumi
of the Indians ; its ports and chief places were only occupied by a few in-
dolent half-breed Spaniards. British Columbia and its primeval forests had
been untrodden by civilized man. Behring Sea had not then been visited
by the whaling-ileet, which has since drawn such enormous treasures from
its waters. Eussian Tartary and its groat river Amur, one of the largest in
the world, wore unknown. Japan was a sealed empire, and the various
archipelagoes scattered over its surface, teeming with people, Avere only
visited ou rare occasions for the pearl oyster or biche-de-mar they produced.
How all this is changed, the brief notices scattered throughout this book

will show.

The vast extension of steam navigation by the introduction of the screw
propeller ; the establishment of sub-oceanic telegraphy ; the development of
the gold fields of Western America and Australia, and the consequent gi-owth
of the State of California ; the opening of the vast empires of China and
Japan to the world's commerce ; the union of the Atlantic and Paciiic coasts ■
by the railway aci-oss the isthmus of Tanama, and the Tacitic Railway
to San Francisco ; the transfer to the United States of the Russian Ter-
ritory in America ; the more perfect organisation and development of the
commerce with the islands ; with innumerable other evidences of progress
in all (quarters, have so altered our relations witli the remote countries

■J»*'fc»rir.r— r*- t^ ■ .!!a *f^gigy'' M > ^ !' ?' ' _ j^' ^J L ' "^"- i 0.i '|i iv » rt. i iM F f ! * .>»-'A*3wit^ iw ^fc» ^

PEEFACE.

described in this vohniio, tliiittlio clmngo is astonishing whon it is considered
in how shoii; a period it lias boon ofFocted.

Tho present work then refers to a nuich more important subject than was
tho case witli tho preceding edition ; and, Avith its increase of interest, tho
improved knowledge of its hydrogi-aphy will bo found to have kep< pace.
As is stated in tho introduction to tho South Pacific Directory, ♦his edition
is difforoitly arranged to tho first. In that, the first] part referred to tho
coasts, tho second to tho islands of tho Pacific Ocean. These later editions
separate tho oceans by tho equator, and oach volume describes tho area North
or South of it, and is thus complete in itself, although supplementary to
each othor.

It is scarcely necessary to recount the steps which have boon nuido in our
knowledge of tho Pacific and its coasts. Up to a very recent time the reci-
tal of each voyage was a tale of discovery and adventure. Many of them
are familiar household stories. Captain Cook'n voyage is scarcely forgotten as
a narrative ; yet not a contiu-y since ho commonced the real work of correctly
describing tho Pacific. The voyages and surveys of J'aiuvurer, 1791 to 1794,
are still tho best authority for tho coasts of Alaska and British Colinubia.
At tho same period tho Spaniards had sent the well known comnumders
(lahano and Valdez, and also tho unfortunate Malaspimi, and his companion
Bmtamente ; these are deserving of all good mention. They examined
much of the Western coast of America.

Admiral Eruncndern, tho hydrographer of the Pacific, follows next in
order, and ho first gave a correct notion of Japan, Okhotsk, and the adjacent
parts of Asia (in 1803 — 180G) ; and, most important of all, has left an in-
valuable and noble work on the Pacific (1824, 1827), to which very many
of the subsequent pages are indebted.

To another Eussian ofiicer. Captain Frederic Lutkv, wo still are almost
solely indebted for Avhat wo know of tho inclement Sea of I5ehring, and
of much of the Caroline Archipelago. A third, Otto Von Kotzchiic, was sent
by the Eussian Government to tho North Pacific in 1815 — 1818, and sur-
veyed tho Marshall Islands and other parts.

Of our own coimtrynien, in later times, the late Admiral Frederic William
Beechey, stands prominent. Ilis voyage in tho JJlvusvin, 1826 — 1828, is in a

rREFACE.

it is considered

ibject tlian was
)f interest, the
avo kop< pace,
ry, ♦liis edition
referred to tlio
later editions
the areaNortli
[)pleraontary to

en made in our
i time tlie reei-

Miiny of them
cly forgcjtten as
ork of correctly
•, 1791 to 1794,
itish Cohnubia.
rn conuiianders

liis companion
'hey examined

follows next in
nd the adjacent
has left an in-
ich very many

still ai'o ahnost
f IJeliring, and
dzchiie, was sent
-1818, and sur-

''Vcderic William
6 — 1828, is in a

scientific point of view one of the most important. lie fixed many positions
on the American coast, surveyed Behrinfj; Strait, the Sandwich Islands, the
Lu-chu Islands, &(•. The same commander afterwards, in 183.'j-fi, again went
to the Pacific, in tho Sulphur, hut being invalided, ho resigned his command to
Captain, afterwards Sir I'dwnrd liclcher. The Sulphur did excellent service
in reconciling many points in doubt, in surveying many other places of great
importance, and adding a great fund of infonnation to North Pacific hydro-
graphy. While the Sulphur was thus employed, the French frigate La
Venus, under Captain A. Du Petit Thouars, in 1837-8, collected a great
amount of valuable information on the whale fishery, besides surveying and
deteraiining tho positions of many places.

Omitting many minor authorities, the noblo work by Von Siebuld on J apan,
published by tho Dutch Government, 1823-30, deserves every admiration,
and is worthy of a nation. Another truly national undertaking was tho
United States Exploring Expedition, organized under Commodore Charles
Wilhes, 1838. The works of this imiwi-tant surveying squadron need not to
be further alhuled to.

Later tlian this we may notice the voyage of the Jlerald, under Captain
(now Admiral) Kellett, E.N., and his throe voyages to the Arctic Sea, as
chronicled by Dr. Berthold Seemann, 1845-51. These and many other works
are duly acknowledged as our authorities.

Since tho period when the foregoing voyages were undertaken, the great
changes before alluded to have come over the countries bordering on the
North Pacific. Commencing with Central America, we have made use of
the work of Captain De lioaencoat of tho L Ohligado, on the province of
Veraguas, in 1854, and of the observations of J/. De Lapelin, of tho French
corvette La Brillante, 1852.

On the cession by treaty of the Californian territory to the United States,
that Government immediately took measures (1848) to acquire a better
knoAvledge of its coasts, and the ultimate result was tho perfect directoiy
drawn up by Assistant Geo. Davidson, U.S.N. , from the surveys and observa-
tions of tho U.S. Coast Survey in 1863, chiefly under Commanders W. A.
Bartlell, Mv Arthur, imiXJus. Akkn, U.S.N., 1848—1858. These directions,

rUKFAClO.

;

comitriHod iu Cluiptor IV. iiro hiviiliiiiMi', and (Unboily all provious ob-
Hi'vationa.

Tho slioros of Jimn do Fuca Strait were survoyod by Captain Kclleft in
1817. Vancouver's work supplies tho basis of our present knowledgo of tho
inlets to tho 8.E. of it.

Vancouver's Island and tho adjacent shores of tho continent worn admi-
rably and minutely surveyed by tho present liydrographer, Captain (I. II.
Richards, R.N., C.13., 18.59—180"), assisted by several meritorious oflicerH,
of whom Captain R. C. Mayne and Alessrs. J. A. liuU and D. Pnufer may bo
mentioned. The Vancouver Island Pilot, drawn up from tho observations
thus collected, forms the basis of Chapterc V. and VI. It will bo soon that
we have added many important details from tho very interesting works of
Lord Milton, Captain Mayne, Mr. Whymper, and other adventurous and
recent travellers. To tho North of this Vancouver's work still remains tho
chief authority.

Of Alaska, tho older authotitios are still th^ chief, but of the Sitka Archi-
pelago the Ilussian oificors have made much better charts, published iu
1848 — 18.50, chiefly from the surveys of Cupt. Yassilicjf. Of tho remainder
of the territory of Alaska it is gratifying to find that our first edition is still
considered to be useful, for the United States' Government have recently
(in the present year) reprinted that portion as a guide for their newly
acquired territory.

Proceeding to tho north-west, the chief advances made in tho hylrography
arose out of the French and English Expeditions to China in 1854-7, and,
for the new Ilussian possessions, their surveys of 1849 — 1854.

Our knowledge of Japan has greatly and rapidly improved. It may bo
said to have commenced with Commodore Perry^s U.S. Expedition in 185;3-4.
The singidar circumstances related on page 598 as to a remarkable and
excellent native map, will be of great interest. It was drawn up by tho
astronomer Takapasi Lakmaimon, who destroyed himself when it was disco-
covered that he had furnished a copy to a European resident. This has
served in many parts as a basis of our knowledge, and this, with tho surveys
of Commaudera Ward and JJroukcr, E.N., and especially of Commander

— .^..A'. ^t.fc'wU.*

I'liEFACE.

vli

previous ob-

ain Kellelt in
iwlctlgo of tho

it were ailnii-
jixptain G. 11.
irious officcrH,
Vender may bo
) obsorvatioi'.s
bo Hocn tliut
iting works of
.fenturoiiH and
1 remuiuti thu

.0 Sitka Ardil-
2)ublisheil lu
the romaiudcr
edition is still
liave roct'iitiy
r their uowly

) hydrography
I 1854-7, and,

1. It may bo
tion in 18.0;3-4.
markablo and
yn up by tho
1 it was disco-
iut. This has
th tho survoys
f Commander

Chnrh'it nuffoel; I'.N., will nppoar as oxact and porfcct rpprosontations of
tho plat'os of groatofit intorost.

Of tho islands and archipoIagocH which aro dispersod ovor tho surfafo of
tho North Pacific wo cannot speak horo in dotnil. Thoir positions and tho
descriptions of thoir characteristics aro dorivod in each caso fro(]Hontly from
many sources, which aro duly stated.

To tho authorities here onunioratod, and to many others whoso obserrn-
tions aro distributed throughout the following pages, our especial thanks
and acknowledgements aro rendered.

Tliis volume has been long delayed. Many avocations Imve prevented tho
author till now from devoting that time io it which tho importance of its
topics would command. However, in now offering it to thi' n .uticnl world,
he trusts that no source of information has been overlooked, and that thu
book will be found to be deserving of their confidence. Tt is the last of a
series of six volumes bearing the Editor's name, \,iiich comprehend a
dcRcriptic ■ ' ho whole ocean-world. And thus completing hb labours, he
W'lidd express the gratification it has boon through many years to collect
and arrange tlio materials thus submitted.

A. O. FINDLAY.

Loudon, Sejjfembfr 1, 1H70.

CONTENTS.

■

SECTION I.

PAOK

PREFACE iii

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS xi

SECTION II,

Chapter I.— THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA 1—77

1. The Coast OF New Granada; Panama to Point Burica 6

2. Costa Rica 29

3. Nicaragua 43

4. San Salvador 63

0. Guatemala 72

Chapter II.— THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, between

Tehuantepec and Mazatlan 78 — 1 1 8

Chapter III.- THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER

CALIFORNIA 119—151

Chapter IV.— THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA 15^-214

Chapter V.— THE COAST OF OREGON, Etc., FROM CAPE

BLANCO TO ADMIRALTY INLET 215-270

PAOK

iii

CA 1—77

3INT BURICA •')
29

, an

, BETWEEN

78—118

^ LOWEE
119—151

isr -214

m CAPF,
215—270

CONTENTS. ix

PAGE

Chapter VI.— VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC 271—374

CnAPTEE VII.— BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC 375-444

Chapter VIII.— THE COAST OF ALASKA, FROM PORT-
LAND CANAL TO THE KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO . . 4 15— 497

Chapter IX.— THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, BEHRINO

SEA, ETC 498-549

Chapter X.— KAMCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KU-

RILE ARCHIPELAGO 550—592

Chapter XL— THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO 593—688

SECTION III.

THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN 689—693

Chapter XII.— ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR

AND LAI'. 10^ N 694

The Gilbert Archipelago 700

The Marshall Archipelago 718

The Caroline Archipelago 734

The Palau or Polew Islands 770

Chapter XIIL— ISLANDS BETWEEN LATS. 10° AND 20^
N., INCLUDING THE MARIANA OR LADRONE
ISLANDS 785-817

Chapter XIV.— ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD OF LAT.
20° N., INCLUDING ^ THE HAWAIIAN OR SAND-
WICH ISLANDS '. 818—905

North Pacific.

CONTENTS.

SECTION IV.

PAOE

CiiAPTKn XV.— THE rnENOMENA OP, AND DIRECTIONS

FOR THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN 906—975

1. Winds 907

2. Tides, with Tide Tallies 924

3. Currents 934

4. MnRTiGtic Variation 952

5. Passages 953

ALPHABETICAL INDEX 977

ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. Currents of the North Pacific Ocean To face Title

2. Bay and Isthmus of Panama page

3. Harbour of San Francisco

4. Strait of Juan de Fuca and Victoria Harbours

6. Hawaiian Archipelago

6. Winds of the North Pacific

7. Currents and Whaling Grounds ,

8. Magnetic Variation

9. Passages in the Pacific Ocean ,

5
182
251
818
907
934
952
954

rioNS

rAOE

906—975

907
924
934
952
9r)3

977

1 • •

, To face

Title.

. page

182

• • 1

251

• •

818

• ■ (

907

• •

934

...

952

• *

954

T ABLE

THE GEOGRAPIIICAL TOSITIONS

IN THE

NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

CENTRAL AJIERICA.

Qiiranhine Point, N.E. extreme -

ratino Point, centre of ialot

Diiricn Ilnrbour, Graham Point

!Saa .fose IJaiik, Trollopa liuok -

Sal)o;^a Island, Church

IJrava I'oint, West extreme

Pa jaros Inlands, N.VV. Island -

Galora Island, centre - . .

Isla del Hoy, extreme of Cocoa Point

(ronzalos Island, Ilavannah Head

San Joso Island, I)i;iiana Point -

Pidado Island, centre

Chopillo Island, the tree

PANAMA, N.E. biistion

Flamenco Island, North point -

Bona Island, peak ...

Point Chamc, extreme

Parita Bay, Liso Point

Iq;uana Island, centre

Cape j\Iala, extreme ...

IjOS Frailfs, South Hock

ISlariato Point, S W. extreme

Montijo Bay, !S.W. pt. of Gobomador Id. -
„ East point of Cebaco Island .

Qiiibo or Coibu Island, IJamas Bay, water-
ing place - - - .
,1 Ilermosa or W. pt.

Ilicarita, South point - . .

Bahia Honda, Sontinida Isl md .

Contreras, Hrincano Island, North point -

Port Pueblo Nuevo, Rocks of JIagnetic Id.
„ Perdono or Intrusa Id.

Spcas Islands, La Bruga Hock -

David Bay, Saino Island, South side

Palen(iue Island, Deer Island, off S.E. pt.

Parida Island, watering-place in Chiinmo
Bay -

I,at.
North.

I.OIlff.

West.

Authorities.

Page

# II

8 6 o

» . II
78 21 15

The survey I)y

8 i6 20

78 17 10

Cai.t. II. Kellctt,

8 28 50

78 4 40

H.N., O.B., and

8 6 40

78 37 40

(Jom. Jas. Wood,

8 37 10

79 3 'o

H.N., 184.3-18.

8 20 36

78 24 30

8 32 20

78 32 10

8 1 1 20

78 45 45

8 12 30

78 53 45

8 25

79 5 5°

8 18 25

79 6 30

'.)

8 37 35

78 41 40

8 S(> l^

79 7

8 56 56

79 3i 9

8 54 3°

79 30 20

8 33 35

79 34 5

8 39

79 40 50

8 58 10

80 20 40

7 37 5

79 59

7 27 40

79 58 30

1(5

7 19 40

So 7

Kcllott & Wood,

11}

7 12

80 51 30

1849.

7 32

81 12

7 33

80 59 15

»»

7 23 10

Si 42

J. Wood.

7 ^4 .50

81 53 3"

»>

7 6 15

81 48 10

I'J

7 43 32

81 29 I

Sir H. Belcher.

1!)

7 52

81 46

Wood.

8 4 39

81 45 30

Sir K. IJtlciicr.

8 4 5-!

Si 43

I)i> Ilosencoat.

7 59 °

81 57 30

Wood.

8 II 52

82 !2 8

!)(! itosencoat.

8 10 13

Sj n 40

Wood.

8 5 5°

82 20 40

'»

!|^

zii

TABLE OF GEOOEAPHIOA.L POSITIONS.

Ludroncs Islands, South I«lo

Blontuosa, S.E. cud -

Burica Point, Buiica Island off it

Gulf of Dulce, Cape Matapalo -
„ I'unta AronitKs -

Sal-si-puedes Point, S.W. extreme

Point Llorona, extreme

Cano Island, S.W. point

I'oint Mala - - .

Port Horradura, lake on boach -

Gulf of Nicoya, Blanco Island off cape
11 Caldera, hot springs

„ Pan de Azucar -

„ Punta Arenas, liKhtho.

CapeVelasP - . .

Gorda Point

Port Culelirn, head of port

Point Santa Elena

Salinas Bay, Salinas Island

San Juan del Sur, South bluff -

Cape Dosolada

Realejo, Cardon Island, North point

FonsecA, or Conchagua Gulf; Coseguina

Volcano - - . .

)> Port La Union,

Chicarene Point

Port Jiquilisco, or Triunfo de los Libres -

Bivor Lempa, Barra del Esp. Santo

Volcan de 8. Miguel, 7,024 feet -

I'ort Liburtad, flagstaff

City of San Salvador - . .

I'oit Aciijiitla, or Sonsonate, Pt. Ec-nedios

Isalco Volcano - . .

Port of Istapa or Iztapam

Volcan de Agua - . .

Volcan de Fuego ...

San Jose de Guatemala, pier head

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

Boca Barra, about

liii Ventosa Bay, Morro

Bay of Bamb,i,"Punta de Zipegua

Jlorro of Ystapa, or Ayuca

Bay of Rosario, Jlorro'de las Salinas

I'ort Giiatulco, i.slcts off

Port Sacriticios, Sacrificios Lsland

Puerto Angel or Port Angeles .

Alcalras Bock

Acapulco, Town of, Fort S. Diego

Paps of Coyuca

Point J(!(iuepa

Morro do Patallan

Port Sihuitntanojo, head of port

Mangrove Bluff

Paps of Teiupan

Colimu Volcano, 12,003 foct, summit

Lat.
North.

I-ontf.

WP8t.

Authorities.

7 5i o

7 27 35

8 I o

8 i6 o

8 32 o

8 23 o

8 34 o

8 39 4.5

9 8 o

9 38 30
9 32 4?
9 54 25
9 55 48
9 58 50
10 13 o

10 31 o
>o 36 55
"o 55 o

11 2 50

11 15 12

12 21 o

'2 27 55

12 58 o

'3 17 5

13 22 o

>3 13 o
'3 25 30
13 26 30
13 48 o
•3 34 30
'3 47 o
I-', 56 16

'4 32 50 i
'4 33 o i
'3 53 40

82 24 40
82 13 5

82 54 35

83 >7 5
83 16 30

83 34 o
83 43 o
83 50 20

83 39 o

84 36

85 4
84 39
84 50

84 45

85 48
85 43
85 33 30
85 46 o
85 40 45

85 53 o

86 59 o

87 9 30
87 37 o

10
o

2
o
o

16 12
16 9
16 I

'5 5'
'5 50
'5 44
'5 44
•5 44
"5 58

16 15

17 6
17 20

17 3*
•7 38
•7 54

18 20

19 24

87 42

88 12
88 17

88 20

89 23
89 4
8953

89 33

90 49
90 50 30

9° 59 3'
90 45 o

Kellett.

De Lapelin.

Sir E. Belcher.

»»
Sir E. Belcher.

Spanish MS.
Lapelin.

94
95
95

. 9?
96

: 96
96
96

100

101

lOI
lOI

102
'03

45 o

4 37
28 30

43 56

Harvey.

2
10

42
3"
5°
o
8
24

O ,10!

30 52
12 41 I

18 O
34 » !

Trastour,

Bauza.

Masters.

Sir E. Belcher.

Masters.

Sir E. Belcher.

Spanish MS.

Bauza,

Sir E. Belcher.

[1847.
Captain Kellott,
G. H. Richurds.

Pago

28
28
29
30
31
33
33
33
34
35
35
36
87
37
39
40
40
42
42
44
47
fiO

59
64
65
65
60
67
68
70
73
74
74
75

83
83
8-^
85
86
89
91
91
91
92
96
96
16
97
97
98
100

TABLE OF OEOGEArniCAL POSITIONS.

xiu

Pago

ett.

^npelin.

3. Belcher.

83
83
8p
8.5
S6
81)
91
91
91
92
96
90
16
97
97
98
100

I.iit.
North.

JIanzanilla Bay, West end of village

J'ort Nnvidail, North hoaoh

Perula Bay, Observation Cove at N. end -

Capo Corriontos, extremity

Point Slita, extremity

La Corvetana Kock . . .

Tros Marias Islands, S. Juanito Island

Piedra de Mar, 130 foot

San Bias, Arsenal ...

Isabel Island ...

Kio Chamctla, or del Kosario, \V. ])oint

3lAZATiiAN, Creaton Island, extreme

LOWER CALIFOIIXIA.

Cidiacan Shoals, S.W. edgo
Altata, village
San Ignacio Island
Point San Innacio
Estero de Agrabampo, cross on hill
Point Rqja . - - .

Lobos Marines Island -
Rio Yaqiii, entrance - . .

Guaymas, Morro Almagro
Cape Haro . . - .

Tetas de Cahra, or Paps
St. Pedro Nolasco . . .

Tiburon Island, West point
Rio Colorado, Invincible or S.E. point
Angeles Island, South point
Angeles Buy . - .

Cape S. Gabriel . . -

Cape de las Virgencs - - .

Moleje Bay, village . - .

Point Concepcion - . .

Pulpito Road, North point
Port Mangles . . .

Carmen Island, Salinas Bay
Real do Loreto . . .

Catalana Island, North point
San Josef Island, Amortajada Bay
Espiritu Santo Island, Lopona or S. pt. -
„ San Gabriel Bay -

La Paz, town . . .

Cerralbo Island, North end
S. Jose del Cabo, mission flagstaff
Cape !^"- Lucas . . .

Mesaf: J. .arvaez . . .

Gulf of Magdalona, Observation Station,
Delgada Point ...
Capo San Lazaro, 1,300 feet
Farailones Alijos Rocks
Point Abreqjos ...

Asuncion Island ...

San Bartolomc, or Turtle Bay N. head
Cedro.s, or Cerros Island, South point
San Benito Islands, W. I. -

H 37 o

24 36 36

25 39 30

26 16

^6 43

27 19

27 48

27 53 50
27 50 o
27 ,56 o

27 59 o

28 54 o

3' 50 26

29 6 o

29 5
28 36

27 46

26 52

26 54
26 30 50
26 16 30
25 59
25 56
25 43
24 54 30
24 24 15

24 25
24 7

24 22

23 3

22 52

23 56

o
o

West.

.\uthoritic8.

TiiKC

'9 i '3

19 13 o

>9 34 3'

20 25 o
20 46 o

20 42 o
2 1 44 o

2« 34 30

21 32 20

21 15 10

22 50 o

23 n 40

24 38 18
24 44 50

24 51 o

26 42 o

27 8 o

27 39 50

28 3 o
28 12 o

„

104

4«

104 41

■05

'05

101;

105

106

3»

'05

105

10?

5!i

106

4'i

108 8 o
107 52 26

109 28 o
109 26
109 13

'09 45
no 41
no 38
no 49 II
no 54 o

111 5 o
in 14 o

112 26 o
114 46 43

112 52 o

113 25 30

112 42 O
11231 O
112 29 O

III 45 O

I" 25 15

in 22 15
•" 5

III 20

no 49 30

■"> 35 23
no 18 20
no 19 o
no 16 20
109 56 o

'°9 37 53
109 53 o

no 52 o

45
o

112
112
"5
"3
114
114
"5
'«5

6
16

47
34
18

5'
n
46

G. II, Richards.
»i
it

Charts.

»f
Beechey.

K.N.

Charts.
T. Warr.
Derby.
Charts.
Town send
Charts.

K.;llutt.
Uosamel, 1840
Charts.

Derby.
Charts.
Wilcox.
Charts.

Kellett.

American chart.

Kellett.

Dent.

Chart.

Kellett.

Sir E. Belcher.

Charts.

Sir E. Belcher.

Charts.

Du P. Thouars.

Charts.

Sir E. Belcher.
Charts.

08
101
102
103
104
104
104
106
106
112
112
112

123
124
12.5
12.5
125
12.5
126
126
126
128
128
130
1?1
132
133
134
134
134
134
135
135
135
136
135
13.5
137
137
137
137
138
139
140
141

141
144

145
146

146
147

148

XIV

TABLE OF OEOaRAPniCAL POSITIONS.

I.nt.
North.

I.onK.
Wu»t.

Autlioritio.

riiiya Maria IJay, Sta. Slaria I'oint

St. ilcronimo Lslaml -

I'ort San (iuentin, West pt. of ontranco

I'oint /iimisa

Ccniziis Island, N.W. point

Capo ColnHtt, S.W. point

'I'odos lo8 Santos t!ay, I'oint Orajoro

Lot) Curonudoa itiluts, hi{;hoat point 575 ft

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

San Ilic'go Bay. Initial point of boundary
obelisk . . - -

„ Point Loma LighthouBO

San Luis Key, anchorago oif

San Junn Capistrano, anchorage off

San l'<;dro Bay, bluff at landing

I'uint Huencmo ...

Buenaventura Mission

Santa Biirbara, lighthouse

I'oint Concepcion, lighthouse -

El Co.\o, bluff

Cortes Shoal, Bishop Kock 1.5 foet

San Clemento Island, rocky islet at N.W.
anchorage ...

Santii Catalina Island, rock at North cove

Santa Barbara Island, summit -

San Nicolas Island, S.E. point -

John Begg liock, 40 feet high -

Anacapa Island, liast end

Santa Cruz Island, Prisoners' Harbour

Santa llosa Island, \V. point

Sr.a Miguel Island, Cuylers Harb., S.W.
part ....

San Luis Obispo, bluff West of creek

San Simeon, beach at S.W. part

I'oint Pinos, lighthouse - -

MoNTBUBY, Custom-house wharf

Santa Cruz, bluff at cmbarcadero

SAN FUANCISCO, Point Boneta lightho.
„ Telegraph Hill, near

Observatory
„ Presidio, astronomical

station -

Sir Francis Drake's Bay, astronomical sta-
tion East of head . . -

Point Koyes, lighthouse

South Farallon lighthouse

North Farallon ...

Bodega Head, summit I mile from extreme

Bodega Bay, Fort lioss

Point Arena, extreme

Shelter Cove, S.E. part of bluff

^8 55

29 48

30 21
30 30
30 3^
30 59
3« 44

32 21 46

3» 3' 59

3^ 40 »3
33 «7 o

33 26

33 43

34 8
34 '5
34 23
34 26 47
34 26 56
3» 15 45

33 2 o
33 26 34
33 30 o
33 '4 '3

33 " 30

34 I o
34 ' »o

33 58 30

34 3 o

35 'o 37

35 38 24

36 37 58
36 36 17

36 57 ^7

37 49 "°

37 47 53

37 47 29

37 59 35
37 59 39
37 4' 49

37 46

38 18

38 30

38 57
40 I

114 31 o

"5 47 o

"5 56 33

■15 5S o

1 16 2 o

116 15 o

116 46 o

117 "3 21

17 611
17 12 22
17 29 o

•7 43
18 6

19 9

'9 '5

19 42

20 27
io 2j 39
'950

18 34 o

18 28 45

19 2 o
19 25 o
19 39 30
19 19 c

19 40 o

20 12 30

20 20 27

20 43 31

21 10 22

2' 55 o

21 52 27

22 o 10
22 30 50

22 23 10

22 26 15

" 57 36
^3 o 13
" 59
^3 5

23 i

n '3

^3 45
M 3

Capt. Kellctt.

Sir E. Belchpv.
Vancouver.

The Survey by
the U.S. officers
under Lieut. W,
A.Bartlett,1849;
Comm. J. Alden,
1853; and As-
sistant Geo. Da-
vidson, 1863.
Sir E. Belcher.

Coinmr. James
Wood, K.N,

U.S. Co, Survey.

By Eloctnc Te-
legraph.
U.S. Co. Survey.

Page

148
149
149
160
150
160
160
161

166
167
168

158
159
160
161
162
163
164
164

166
166
168
168
169
169
169
170

171
172
174
176
177
179
184

184

196
196
197
198
200
•201
203
206

^i'.*,.

TABLE OF GEOORArillCAL TOSITIONS.

AutlioriticB.

Pago

t. KcUett.

148

149

K. Bolchrv.

149

icouver.

160

>»

150

160

161

lio Survey by

U.S. officers

166

er Lieut. W.

167

JartUt,1849;

168

im. J. AlJon,

3 ; and As-

mt Geo. Da-

on, 1863.

E. Belcher.

168

>»

169

160

161

»f

162

163

164

>»

164

»»

166

inmr. James

166

jd, U.N.

168

»»

169

»>

169

»>

170

171

S. Co, Survey.

172

174

176

»»

177

J»

179

)»

184

r Electric To-

184

il ph.

. Co. Survey.

184

>»

196

»f

196

197

»i

198

200

201

»»

203

»»

20o

Capo MonJocino . . .

Humboldt May, lighniouan on North spit -
'I'liiiidHd Iliiy, nock near town -
Klamath Hivor, entrance
(JrcHcent City Hay, lighthouse -
I'olican IJuy, ontruuco of river -

COAST OF OREGON.

Port OrforJ, summit of ridge \V. of towTi -

Capo Orford or lilanco - -

Coquillu liivor, entrance

Cape Gregory or Arago, N.W. point

Koos Bay, Kooa Head

Umpquah Uiver, lighthouse

Capo Porpetua . . .

Capo Foulweather . - .

Capo Lookout . . .

Capo Meures . . .

Tillamook Bay, entrance

Columbia River, Point Adams •

„ Cape Disappointment,

lighthouse -

,1 Astor Point

Washington Tehritory.

Shoalwater Bay, Loadbetter or Low Point
Cape Shoalwater, lighthouse
Graj''s Harbour, Point Hanson -
Point GrenvUle, bluflf

Juan db Tvca Strait.

Cape Flattery, lighthouse on Tatouch Id. -
Neeah Bay, Obs. pt., Wyadda Island
New Dungeness, lighthouse on North end

of spit ....
Blunt or Smith Island, lightho. on highest

part . . . .

Admiralty Inlbt.

Whidbcy Island, Admiralty Head lightho .
lieetoration Point . . .

Steilacoom, Fort . . .

Budd Inlet ; Olympia
Whidboy Island, Partridge Point
liUmmi Island, North point
Scmiahmoo Bay, Parallel station

Lopez Island, Cape Colville, R.E. point -
San Juan Island, II. B. Co.'s post at S. end

l.iit.
North.

40 26

40 40

41 ;i
41 33
41 44
41 64

42 24 22

42 50

43 7
43 20 30
43 21 4

43 40

44 19

44 45

45 20
45 30
45 34

46 12 30

46 16 33
46 11 28

4<3 36 45
46 44 11

46 53 49

47 20

48 23 10
48 22 30

48 10 69

48 19

48 9 22

47 35 6

9 50

1 30

12 30

44 63

47
48
48
49

48 25 35
48 27 45

Loiilf.
\V(«t.

124

124
124
124
124
124

22
12 21
8 8
5
11 22
11

124 28 47

124
121
124
124 18
124 11
124 6
124 4
124
123 58
123 57

30
24
22

123 66 60

124 2 13
123 49 32

124 45

124 2 24

124 6 42

124 14

124 45 10
124 36 15

123 6 7

122 51 30

122 39 30

122 28 16

122 32

122 51

122 46

122 42 12

122 45 30

122 48 .30

123 2

Authoi'ltien.

I'.'.jrc

r.S. Co. Survey.

206

2IIS

210

211

212

213

Capt. KeUett.

Vancouver.

Captain G. II.
Richards.

220

222
223
221
225
227
228
22(1
230
230
230
234

230
239

242
243
240
248

253
264

267

258
260
262
263
260
269
269

274
293

xvi

TABLE OF OEOORArniCAL POSITIONS.

I,;it.
Xiiitli.

Wcul.

VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.

Port Snn Juan, Pinnnclo Rock, North side

of Tiay . . . .

Sooko Inlet, Secretary iHland -
Race Island, lishtho. on Groat Race Rock
Esquimau Harbour, Duntze Head
Victoria Hakhoih, Laurel point
Barclay Sound, Cape licale, W.E. point

„ Observ. islet. Island hnrb.

„ Observ. Id., Alberni canal

Stamp harbour
Clayoquot Sound, Observ. I., Hecate Bay -
liefugo Cove, villaRO on West side
Ho8(iuiat Harbour, boat cove
Estovan Point, South extreme -
Nootka Sound, Fricndlj' Cove -
Nuchatlitz Inlet, Port Langford, Colwood

Islet . . . .

Esperanza Inlet, rock, Queen's cove
Kyuquot Sound, Shingle point, at entrance

of Narrowgut crook
Nasparti Inlet, Head boach
Cape Cook or Woody I'oint, Solander Id. -
Quatsino Sound, Observ. islet, Koprino

harbour . - - -

„ rock, North harbour

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

Point Roberts, Parallel station, W. side -
Eraser River entrance, Garry point
New Westminster, Military barracks
Burrard Inlet, English Bay, Government

reserve . - - -

Nanaimo Harbour, Dr. Benson's house -
Howe Sound, Plumper Cove
Nanoose Harbour, Entrance Rock
Bayncs Sound, Henry Bay, Beak point -
Quathiasky Cove, Valdes Islaud, S. point -
Knox Bay, Thurlow island. Stream at head

of bay . - - -

Port Neville, Robber's nob
Port Harvey, Tide pole islet
Alert Bay, Cormorant island, Yellow blufif-
Beaver Harbour, Fort Rupert, Shell islet -
Port Alexander, Goletas channel, islet in

centre of port ...

Bull Harbour, Hope island, North point,

Indian island ...

Triangle Island, Scott islands, W. point -
Cape Scott, summit of cape

Cape Caution

48 33 .30 124 27 37
48 19 3(j !l23 42 40
48 17 45 123 32 15
48 25 4!) '123 20 45
48 25 22 ;123 23 2
48 47 48 125 12 52
48 64 41 125 10 54

49 13 40

124 50 7

49 15 22

125 60 17

49 20 60

120 16 40

49 27 31

126 25 27

49 22 7

126 32 32

49 35 31

120 37 32

49 47 20

126 67 6

49 52 46

126 69 65

49 59 65

127 9 30

50 11 21

127 37 68

60 6 31

127 57 20

50 30

127 62 16

50 29 25

128 3 39

123 6 26

49 7

123 12 I

49 13

122 64 20

49 16

123 12

49 10

123 56 3ti

49 24

123 29 20

49 15

124 8 6

49 36

124 51 18

50 2

125 14 38

50 24

125 39

50 31

126 4 21

50 33

126 16 40

60 36

126 67 30

60 42

127 25 7

60 60

127 39 57

50 64 47

127 66 3

60 51

129 6 32

50 46

128 26 46

61 12

127 57 30

Autlioritlps.

PllgO

Comm

. Wool.

316

D. Pu

nd. r, R.N.

317

318

G. H.

Richards.

320

„

322

»»

328

336
331

»♦

343

»»

.347

»»

348

»»

351
355

)»

357

360

i»

364

»»

365

371

370

379
380
383

385
889
301
393
398
411

414
41S
416

419

421

422
424
426

426

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POHITIONS.

zvii

Pogo

360
3G4

371
370

385
389
391
393
398
411

426

l.at.

North.

I.on«.
Wi'nt.

.Aulhnri'ic-i.

I'llKB

Virgin Honks

o°l 19

128 19

Vancouver.

426

Pearl Rocks

Til 24

128 7

426

Smith Inlet,' islot off ontrnnce -

.51 18

128 1

420

Rivers Cannl, ontnmco

i;i 26

127 53

426

Culvert Island, South point

(Jl 2/J 40

128 I

426

Fitzhugh Hound, I't. Wdlker -

51 57

127 57

427

Itostoration Cove ...

52 i 30

127 47

427

Ihirke Cannl

.J2 26

127 31

428

Fisher Cannl, Fort John

52 7

127 59

428

Milbank Sound, Capo Hwaine -

52 13

128 30

428

Milbank Sound, Fort M'Loughlin

52 12

128 24

„

429

Mussel Cannl, Poison Cove

52 55

12S 10

429

Gardner Canal, Pt. Stnniforlli -

53 54

128 44

„

430

Canal do Principe, Pt. Stephens

63 28

129 48

»»

432

Port Kssington, Pt. Lambert

64 10 20

130 2

j»

431

Stephen Island, rocks off N.W. side

64 17

130 4H

431

Point Alaskclyno, entrance of Works canal

54 42

l.'fO 21

432

Fort Simpson, anchorage

54 34

130 25

433

Observatory Inh t, Salmon Cove

65 15 34

129 62

»»

434

Portland C'iinal, head

55 45

130 5

434

QiiEEX CiiAUtorrE Islands.

Capo St. James

61 57

130 62

Russian Chart.

437

Houston Stewart Channel, Forsyth Pt. -

62 9

131 7

Mr. Inskip, 1855,

437

Cumshewas Harbour, I. North of entr.

63 1

131 22

and 11. B. Co.

438

Skidegato Channel, Bar rock at E. entr. -

63 22 30

131 40

438

Cape Ball ....

53 42 C

131 36

j»

438

Ymbisible or Rose Pt.

64 13

131 22

T»

439

„ extremity of rcii

64 16

131 11

43g

Virago Sound, Inskip point

64 2

132 16

)»

440

Langara or North Id., North pt.

64 21

133

440

Hippah Island, West point

53 33

!32 57

»»

440

Skidegate Channel, Point Buck

Port Kuper, Sansum Island in Mitchell

63 9

132 26

j»

441

Harbour

62 66 31

132 9

G-. Moore, R.N.

441

Cape Henry

52 66

131 22

Chart, &c.

442

Tasso Harbour, entrance

62 37

132 2

>»

442

Anthony Islar.d, South point -

62 5

131 17

442

COAST OF ALASKA.

Capo Fox . . - -

64 45

130 49

Vancouver.

449

Tongass, U.S. post . - -

54 42

130 29

449.

Cape Northumberland

64 52

31 16

450

Behm Canal, Point Sykcs

66 6

131 7

»1

450

„ Now Eddystone Rock

66 29

130 56

l»

459

Revilla-Gigedo Island, Point Whaley, N.

point ....

66 66

131 18

451

Port Stewart, Islet on S.W. side

55 38 15

131 47

»»

451

Cape Caamano

65 29

131 54

452

Duke of Clarence Strait, Point Percy

54 65 40

131 31

453

„ Cape de Chacon

54 43

131 66

453

Prince Ernest Sound, I'oint le Mesurier -

66 46

132 13

453

„ Point Warde

56 9

132

'»

454

Point Highfield

66 34

132 22

»»

4.H

Etoline Harbour, Wrangrl, U.S. post

56 31

132 20

4,04

^Wlh racifiv.

XVlll

TAin.E OF OEOORArniCAL POSITIONS.

I.iil. ;,iin(f.

Nuitli. Wi-i.

Autliniltic". I I'liiio

]''ciit Siiliinn (II. 1!. ('. |ll>^t)

I'liiiil Ildwo

I'dil I'ldU'cliiiii, I'liiiil I>;ikri

I'orl I!(iiiuliir, Mit c.ll

I'oiiit St. Albans

(Jii)!!' lliciHiuu

(•:>]>,■ \\,\<^ -

Ciilto AdiliiiKtmi

('.•ipi' Sim liiiitdldiiK'' -

liiisa l.sliiiid, ov Wolf I.'i'ik

Sim t'liilos, Doiigliis, or I'oin slir IhIuih

Soiilli piiiiit
ChriNtian Simnd, Pdil Malimnliiiry

,, Point i;ilis

Piinco I'VcMlciick Souml. Point Kinnsniill

„ Pt. Canidi n, Pt. MacaHiiry
Adniirnlty Island, Point (iiirdnrr
„ Point Nipoan

( '.ipo Fansliaw

Sti'ldieub Passage, Port IIniip;hton. N. Jit
„ Port Sncttisliani, 'I'aco,

H.P.C. Lstal lisliniont
,, Point licli'fat

Clmthani Stiail, Hood l!av. Point Sanuiul

Point Maisd. n
lijiin Canal, Point Couviidin -
„ .Seduction Point

TiiK Sitka Aiichu'elaoo.

Capo finimanoy, Woodi^n Islaml
Port Conclusion, Ship's Cove -
Point Aufjiista . . .

Point Adidjdin.s
Port Altlioip, entrance
Capi' Cross . . .

INiillock llarliuuv - - -

Capo Edward . . .

liay of Islan Is, Poin' Aniilia
Krazov Island, Cape Edf-ciitnbo
Sitka or Noil'olk Sound, S'ovoArkliangil,
Arsenal . . .

Point NVodehou.so -
Cross Sound, l*t. Winiljk'don

Cape SiH'iiter . . .

( 'ajie Fairweather . . .

IMount Fairweather - - -

liehriug hay, Cape Phipps

„ PortMulgrave, Pt. Tuint^r
„ Digges Hay, Pt. Eatouelie
„ Point Manby

Point Kiou . - - -

Blount St. Elias, 14,987 feet

Pamplona Kock . . .

Cap(! Suckling . . .

Kaye Wand, Capo Hamond

I'rince William Sound, Capo Witsliod
„ Cape liinehinbrook
., Port Etches, Phi])ps Pt. -
„ I'ort (irivina, S.E. point -
„ Snug (jornor Bay

Mi H)

'i(> :u

QV, L't) 30

.")0 1.)

Ad 7

.■)(1 2

.ir, ,08

00 27

r,.; P2 ;U)

.'..") 1

.J.I

."itl

•Al

r,G

•57

•'>'

.->'

.')7

.51

.'57

(59

uf> 10

.lO 1/5

58 3 .30

.58 18

.58 12

57 uG

57 44

57 39

57 17

57 20

'iO

6('

fiO

132 4S

133 36

133 48

133 35

134 3

133 45

133 48

133 30

133 29

ir.'i 32

I .'14 11

lei 10

134 22

133 58

131 32

134 5

1 33 25

133 20

133 37

134 59

134 VM

134 57

135 4

135 23

134 33

135 1

138 42

136 16

130 28

136 11

136 10

135 46

135 17

135 41

130 15

130 35

137 60

137 38

Vancouver.

139 47

139 43

139 32

140 13

141 14
140 .52

142 15

143 54

144 28

145 47

146 27
146 32
145 18
140 35

Russian Chart,

1848.
Russian Chart

and Vancouver.

Sir E. Belcher.
Vancouver.

»»
Sir E. liolehcr.

».
.Spanish Chart.
//'.; SirE. Bolcher,
Vancouver.

Sir E. Belcher.
Vancouver.

454
454
466
4fi6
457
467
457
457
458
458

459
45!t
459
459
46J
400
400
460
401

462

403
404
464
405
405

467
468
408
408
469
471
471
471
472
472

472
473
470
469
476
470
477
477
478
479
479
480
480
481
482
482
483
483
484
484

TABLE OF OEOUUArilK'AL I'O.siTloNS.

luouvcr.

•154

454

4S5

450

457

467

457

458

»•

458

4.">!'
45!l

451)

4()J

4 CO

■mo

4(iU

4(U

462

4(i3

»»

lOI

4(>l

4(i5

405

Ndl'tll.

\\.»t.

Aiilliuiili(H.

I'll lie

4G7

4 OS

408

461)

471

472

ssian C'hnrt,

472

HI ft.

ssiim Chiirt

472

m\ Vancouver.

473

470

409

i»

470

477

■ K. Bflehor.

477

ncouvor.

478

479

■ E. I5olehcr.

479

»i

480

nnish (^hart.

480

Sir E. Belcher.

481

iicouver.

482

)»

482

483

■ E. Belcher.

483

»>

484

ntoiivcr.

4 84

I'rincu Williiim Soun.l, Vt. ValdcH, I'l

l''n'i Ill:llltli;

„ I'liiiil Ciilrus^

„ Muiiliiy;!! l^liiiiil, S„n\\\ iidiiit

„ I'ort Clmlmurs, |)l:nil1^*lllil ■

('alia I'liifi't

CluHWiH Isliiiwln, South jiroill) -

I'lo IsliimU, Simlh bxtniiu)

I'ciilll ( inf.l

Cuolc Inlet, Ciipi' l''.li/:ilii'th

„ l'i)it Chiithiim, Wiituriiif? I'lii'c

„ rcinl \U'<U'

„ THcliouKHt^ihouk Biiy, Anelu

I'oint -
„ Coulf^iuck Isliiiiil, Coiil Buy

„ West Korcliiiid

,, North Foreliiiiil

Cook liilc'1, < liu'hounniiiit Isluiid. or Muiiiit
St. Aiif{usliii
„ Ciipo DoukIiis

KODIAK Autll!l'lil.A(M),

KoJiiik Isliiii'l, GrcviHo or Tol-tuy Ciiio -
„ C'liiiiiiitskoy lliiy, (iovhoii liork -
„ St. I'lml lliirbolir
„ l.jatskoy Bay, Ciipo 'L'onkny
„ ICiliiilon Bay, Niihchinood aclK -
„ t.'apti Trinity
ri.|iiii.>iiila ot Aliaska, Toualo Bay

Wriingoll llarh., S.W. side

„ Evdokocir l-lan.ls, S. isld. -

St. Stuphcn Island

Tschirikotr l.slaiid, X.K. pt.

Schuniagiu Islaiuls, Onntja

Nortli point -

„ Kagay Id. -

„ Tiigh - Kiiiiagh

Lsland

Sannah or Halibut IJ., cent.

Ai.iui'iAN Am iin'KLAno.

Oiinimak Id., Cldchaldinskoi volcano
,, Capo Mordvinofl'

Krenitzin Idands, Ouganiok Island

Tigal'^a Island, contro

Akoim Islan ', North point

Oiinalashka Island, S.W. point -
Port lllulnk

Oumnak Island, C ipo Sigak

.Foann Bogosloll' Island

Younaska Island

Anionghta Island, contro

Scguani Island

Anilia I.sland, East Capo

Atkha Island, Korovinskaia Ba;
„ Nikolskoi Villag-

Silkhin Island, contro

Adakh Island, North end

Kanaga Island, North point

capo

VaMcoiivi r.

4S5

(id

117

485

.")))

117

4H7

. , 00

110

IH7

118

l.-^li

119

4.S8

11!)

4SS

1 50

■ ).)

488

5!)

lot

488

151

48'J

.■)!)

151

489

.')!)

151

I'll!

151

191

- i 00

151

191

- 01

150

• 1

492

- J!)

•)0

153

190

152

190

57 34

151

i.iniinskv.

496

57 41

151

.).)

494

57 47

152

494

57 25

151

190

57 17

152

(90

50 45

l.)3

ViiiUMmvtT.

406

57 40

155

WuH^ilicin

501

50 59

155

501

15(1

(.iohjwnin.

601

50 10

155

(Krusmistorn.)

502

55 50

155

Vancouver.

502

55 12

100

SarvtschcflT.

502

00 5

too

»>

502

54 40

1 59

(folownin.

502

51 27

102

S.irytscLcll'.

503

54 45

103

505

54 51

104

506

54 17

104

Ivolzobuo.

506

54 5

105

606

54 22

105

507

53 13

107

I;Utk0.

507

53 22

107

Kotzcljuc.

507

52 50

108

500

53 50

107

Sarytschoft'.

610

52 40

170

Kotzohno.

610

52 33

171

Tobonkoff.

511

62 22

172

511

52 6

172

Lutke.

612

52 12

174

Inghostroni and

513

52 17

174

Etoiino.

513

52 4

170

Staniko\vit<h.

514

52 4

176

InghcBtroni.

514

52 4

i;u

514

TABT.E OF GEOORAPniCAL POSITIONS.

1 .!'

.*.

Tannin Island, N.VV. jit'iik
Ooriiloy or llurnt Lsliiiul
Amittign:ik [mI'ukI

Ki'misoporhnoi, or Sovon Mountuiim Id.
Aintsthitkii Island, Wi^Ht point .

„ Kiriluvskaia Hay

Kryci or Kat Inland
Kiska Island, North noint
Uouldyr Inland, contro
Somitsch Island
AgHltou Island
Alton Island, Tscliitschagoff IJay

SKA OF BKIIUINCJ.

Voint Krcnitzin

Izenhtk (or f'to. Iloidun) Hay, Capo Gluze

nap, or Mitkoff
Amak or Aaniak Island, South extreme
Cape Koshnoff

MoUer Bay, Kritskoi Island, K. point
Cape Soniavine
CapL' Stroj<"nott'

< 'apo Munohikofl"

< )uKatchik, or Soaliina Uiver, Capo Oroig
Uristol May, ('apu Tsc(iitch'if,'<itr.

IJiver Nanok, raoiigvigumut villai^o

tJhramtsolu^nko Hay, Capo Constantino

Noiiuhagak Kivcr, Fort Aloxandroffsk

Ilagnrneistcr Inland, Calm I'oint

( 'apt! Xowcnham

liay of Good News, N. pt. of entrance

Kuskovvino Kiver, N W. point .

Cape Avinoff

Nuniwak Island, N.E, oxtroine .

„ S.K, point

Cape Van(;onver
Cape Romnnzoff
N'nkou River, Aphoon Mouth
Capo Stepnens

Chaktolimout Bay, Tebenkoff Cove
Fort Michaolooski
Unalachleet, trading port
(Jape Denbigh, Fort St. Miuhaol
Cape Uarby .

(iolovnino Bay, Stone Mole
Aziak or Slodge Island, 642 foot
Point Rodney, northern peak
I'ort Clarence, Point Spencer
Oukivok, or King's Island, 766 I'eet
Capo York ...
Capb Pkincb of Wales (West Capn of

America), bluff
Diomede Islands, Fairway Rock, centre

St. Lawrence Island, Schischmarcff point

I.iit.
North.

r,[
ul
SI

r.i
r,i

f')l

.yi
r>2
.r.i

.V2

.w
i;t

27
■)•)
22
10
(>
■Vi
.5(i

Lonit.

Long. W.

() 17°8 lb "q
17H 40
178 :>■)
LouK. F.
.17!) ii') 57
17H Hi
17!) « 64
179 20
177 60
170 13
174
173 37
173 20

6.J

162

.>o

163

■%')

161

100

160

168

167

168

160

162

161

162

.34

165

166

164

162

161

6;<

161

160

161

163

166

6.)

166

fit

167

65 83
65 38

Authnrttlo.

i'ago

03 46

50 7

1 6

2 7
61
58 5
47 2
34

66
24
63
10

19
52
61
30 16
10

9
17 50
47 60

67 47
19 40

30 167 59 10
40 168 43 45

Long. W.

161 41

Sarytschefl'.

Inghostrom.

Etolinu.

.Lutkii.
Stauikowitih.

Von Wrangrl.

Chramtschenko.
Cook, 1778.
Etolinc.
Chramtschunko.

»»
Was.silioif.

Etolino.

Chramtschenko.

Zagoskin.

Cook.

Tcli(aikoff.

K.dlott.

/agoskin.

Cook.

Tebenkofl'.

Cook.

Beechiry.

Cook.
Boechey.

Schischmareff.

518

529
630

631

'.^^

hostroni.

tk.t.

618

aikuwiti'h.

ul8

618

610

619

6ig

620

520

.r.'o

n \Vi!iU(ji'l.

(VJO

621

iiimtschonko.

621

)k. 1778.

521

jlino.

622

raintschuiiko.

VJl

o22

iHisiliutt',

622

522

)lino.

522

niiufschcnko.

522

:>oiskin.

524

uk.

524

licnkofl'.

624

llctt.

524

■oskin.

625

uk.

520

benkoil'.

526

ok.

527

cchcy.

627

527

ok.

527

echoy.

529

629

A80

hischmureff.

631

TAULE OF (IKOGUAl'lllCAL ruSlTIUNH.

i.iit,

Nditli.

l.cillK.
Wi»t.

.\uthoritU'i.

Kt. l.iiwri'iici^ 1 liiml, N. point .
Ht. Matlhow l.fliiiid (.Matvoi, or Oon.'H Id.)
C.ipo I'luiglit, S.K. point

„ Ciipc! Uom .

,, MoiJDvi Inland, N. point
rribiiilon" I»lnn'l8, St (IcorKo'H Id., V,. pt.

„ St. I'iiuI'h Id., Sivoiitchi lalft .

( OAST oi' Asia.

Kant Caik of .\Hia

St. Liiwicncc Itiiy, Ciipu lo Krlcougoun .

„ C'lipi! l'niumfi;onn
MutihiKmiiifk lliiy, cnUiincu
t'apo Klmliictkiii
Ciipo NygtiliyKiiii
Capo NciMjtdian .

Arakamtcliutchun Island, Capo Kygliyniu
Capo Mint ens

Ittygran Inland, Cupn I'ostols .
Cape Tchaplin
Capo TfhoukotHkoi
I'oit I'lovidenco, Emma Harliour
Capo Spantairt; . • •

Capo Attthuun
'I'ransllguration Bay .
I'api; licdiriiip;
Gulf of Si. <;roix, ( 'alio Miotilikon

„ Mount Linlingai, 1,462 foot

River Anad i , mouth .

Capo St. 'ill idilous

Avchangt'l Gabiiol 15ay, N. point of ontr. .

Capo Navf rin, 2,512 foot

Capo Olut THkoi

Capo Crovondkoi

Capo Ilpinskoi

Verkhotoursky, or Littlo Karughinsky Id.

Commander Islands, Bchring Island, Capo

Khitroff . . . •

„ ,, Capo Youchin

,, ,, W. extremity

Mudny or Copper Island, settlement

„ „ S.E. extremity .

N.W. extromitv

KAMCHATKA.

Karaghinsky Island, Capo aolcnichtelioff .

„ Cape KrachenninikoflF

Capo Ilpinskoi
Cape Kouzmichtcheff .
Karaghinskaia Bay, mouth of the Karaga

„ S. point

Capo Oukinskoi
Capo Ozci-noi . .

03 12 150 50

•iO 18

I'll) ,10

60 II

.■)ii ;m

57 5

172 I

172 50

172 52

I) l(>!l 10

10!) 51

66
65

i!) 40

or, ;t7 ;io

65 ;)0 30
65 15
65 2
61 55 30
(il 16
61 33 15
61 37
01 21 30
64 16

64 25 55
61 42 30
61 46
61 60

65 30
Oi :;8 40
05 36 30

100 44

171
170 53 30

172
17-' I't K
172
172 17 30

Scliisohmari'fT.
I.iitko,

Tchistiakoff.

Bocchi.'y.
Lutko.

64 50

02 42

02 28

02 16

59 68

50 50
50 48 30
50 37 30

54 50
65 25

55 17
54 47
54 32
54 52

172

172 20
172 21

172 14

173 10

173 7

174 42

175 28
175 25
175 67
178 47
178 17^
liOng. East.

178 40
170 38
170 22

179 4
170 28
106 18

il65 57
165 43

Mooro, 1849.
Lutko.

Charts.
Lutke.

I
I

166 43

165 68

165 40

108

107 31

60 13 30

68 28

69 48
69 5
59 8
58 55
57 68
57 18

Beenhcy.

Charts.

Ctolownin.

164 40

163 32

105 57

103 19

162 59

163 2

162 47

163 14

Lutko.

XXI

Patto

531

531
531
532
533
534

530
536
536
538
53S
538
539
540
540
541
511
511
513
513
543
543
544
544
545

640
540
640
646
647
547
547
547

548
548
648
5J9
540
540

551
662
552
552
662
562
562
653

xxu

TABLE OF GEOGEArillCAL POSITIONS.

I.Mt.

NiiiUi.

I.niid.
Kiiat.

AiitlKiritics,

.Pago

-/^^^

Kivcr Stolbovskiiiiv

Cnpc Stolbovoi

Ciipu KampiNchntskoi ,

Klutchiivskoi Volcano, 15,706 feet

{'apo Kronotskoi

Kronolskoi Volcano, 10,010 feot

Ciipo iShipounsky

Villeuchinaky IVak, 7,a72 foot .

.iviitcha or Awatska Volcano, I '.500 foot .

AvATCHA Ray, church at IVUopaulov -ki .

Cape Gavareah . . .

Capo Lopatlia . . .

KuiiiLE Islands.

Alaid Island . . .

Sunishu Island, centre
roronuishir Island, hifjh mountain

,, North point

Shirinky Island . . .

Alonkonvushy Island, centre
Avos Kock . - - -

Ounekotan Isliind, Cape Kronitiiin
Kharamukot;in Island, ccntro peak
Shiabhkotan Island, centre
Tshirinkotan Island - - .

The Snares . . .

Kaukoko Island, peak
Illataua I-<land, SarytschcflToak
Iiashau Island . . .

Ushishir Island, South point
Kotoy Island, South extremity -
Simusir Island, I'revost Peak
The Four lirothers, South Torpoy island -
Broughton Island - - -

Urup or Staaten Island, Cape Castricum,
North point -

,, Capo Van der Lind, S. lit. -

Ilurup Island, N.K. point

,, Capo Uikord, South point -

Tsehikotan or Spanbors Island, centre
Kunashire Island, St. Antony's peak

., Estab. in Traitor's Day

Sea op Okuotsk.

Cape Lopatka . . .

liolchcietskoi . . .

Tigilsk - -

Cape Outholotskoi . . -

Capo lilisan . . .

I'oustaresk - - - -

Kaminoi, at the mouth of the IVi-gina Kiv.

Ghijega, or Fort .liejiginsk

Jamsk . - - -

Taouinsk - - - -

Okhotsk

Tort Aian, Capo Vneshi

.lonas Islind, 1,200 feet

Fort Oiidskoi . . .

Great Shantar Island, North point

5(i 40

102 39

Lutko.

553

50 40

103 21

553

50 10

103 25

„

553

56 8

ICO 45

553

54 54

102 13

554

54 45

160 37

551

53 6

160 4

554

52 39

158 20

noochcy.

557

53 20

558

53 1

158 43

500

52 21

158 39

562

51 2

150 50

Lutkc.

562

50 54

1^6 32

Krusensloni.

563

50 40

150 20

)]

503

50 15

155 24

563

OilieiF.

503

50 10

154 5S

Kni80Mstcni,

563

49 51

154 32

603

49 49

154 19

664

49 19

154 44

564

49 8

154 39

664

4S 52

154 8

564

48 44

153 24

564

48 35

153 44

})

564

48 16

153 15

564

48 6

153 12

564

47 47

152 55

564

47 32

152 38

Golort'iiin.

565

47 17

152 24

665

47 2

151 52

»)

665

46 29

150 33

565

46 42

150 28

565

40 10

150 22

566

45 39

149 34

566

45 38

149 14

566

44 29

140 31

566

43 53

140 43

566

44 31

145 40

567

43 44

144 69

567

61 2

150 50

Lutko,

568

52 64

158 22

King.

568

58 1

158 15

Charts.

560

57 28

155 45

})

569

59 20

152 50

560

162 30

560

102 50

660

61 40

ItIO

560

69 29

153

570

59 56

148 30

„

570

69 20

143 14

570

60 25

13.S 25

Tronson, 1H55.

571

66 25

143 10

Kruaenstern. ,

572

54 29

134 58

Koomin,

572

55 11

137 44

" 1

TIONS.

A»tli(iriti('«.

Paito

Lutko.

55a

hiYi

;>c,:i

.5.03

fiVI

i>0l

6ol

liccc'hcy.

o57

oiJ8

.5(iO

)»

j(i2

Lutkc.

oG2

KrusoiiHteni.

663

))

fj()3

003

Oil.oir.

5(i3

KnihoMstoni,

503

ijt)3

,'>M

;)G4

504

5Gt

Sfi-i

501

5()t

50 1

„

501

Golo«"niii.

505

5fiG

5GG

500

507

5G7

Lutkc.

.)GR

King.

508

Charts.

509

570

'IVonson, ISiJj.

571

Krusonstcin.

572

Kooiiiin,

572

TABLE OF OEOORArniCAL TOSITIONS.

Orcnt Slmntai- Island, Prokolii'fT IslnnJ

„ KoaasolV Island

Capo Linukiiiskoy
Hivcr Tiigura, mouth -
Capo Khiibarod'

Island or Saohai.in.

Capp Eli/al)i'th

(';ipi' ]\Iai'ia

North Hay, Tailav colony

Nailii'jc'ila liay, Capo Il'.rnir

Cajio triilovatclii'lV

Capo liiiwonsti in

Cajio Klokutehoir

Cajic AVmst

Shoal Toiiit

Downs I'oint

Capo Delislo

Ca])0 KatinanoflT

{!apo Hiinnik

IMount Tiara

CajH! Mollingshanson -

Cajm Patienci;

liohbon Island, N.E. point

IJivor Nt'va, mouth

Capo iSoinionoft'

Capo Dalryinplo

Capo MuloflVky

JJernizot Peak, or Jlount .Spanhcr;^

('ape Soniavint?

Capo Tonin

( 'apo Lowonom

Capo Aniwa

(.'apo Crillon

La Dangta-ouse Pock -

Kisiri, Pic do Langlo -

h'ofunsiri, Capo lliohor

Cape Notoro

Capo Nossyab

Capo Uisappointmont -

Gulf or Tautahy, Eh:

Cape iSuft'rcin

Fish Iliver - - -

Low Capo ...

lioachy Head

liarraconta llarliour, Tnllo I>lanil

Ciastrios Pay, Uiioin I'oint

.loiiq>ii&re Bay

Napoleon Road, 5I';soir Rock (W'l'si point '

of entrance) ...

Guerin Gulf, sandy point
Hornet Pay, Fox Inland
Islet Point -

fSiaii-Wiihu Bay, 0!jsorvalion spot on '•hart
I'ort Michael Seymour, Observation sjjot at

head of port . . -

St. Vladimir Bay, low point
Shelter Bay

tnt.
Nortli.

.?,5 i

.S4 4.'!

54 '4

53 40

53 4°

54 24 30
54 '7 3°
54 '5 45
54 '° '5

53 30 'S

54 J 15
53 4'' o
52 57 30

' 52 32 30
5' 53 o
5' o

. 50 4»

! 50 12

I -5° ^

49 35

4^ 52
I 48 36

49 '4 40
48 5j 20
48 21 o
47 57 45
I 47 33 o
I 47 16 3°
' 50 o
4'- 23 "O
46 2 20

45 54 «5
45 4ii '5
45 II o

45 27 45
45 54 15
45 25 5°
45 40 30

30
o

3°
o
o

o
o

47 20 o

47 55 o

48 28 o

48 56 o

49 ' 50
51 28 o

50 54 o

42 37 12

43 9 °
42 41 o
42 49 o

42 54 '4

43 46 °

43 53 40

44 28 o

I.iinif.
Kiist.

I ^S 22

'3^ li

'i(> 24

141 22

'42
142
142
142
141
"43
'43
143
'43
'44
'43
'43
'44
'43
'44
'44
'44
'44
'43
142
142
142
142
'43
'43
'43
141
142
141
141
142
141
'37

.\iitlii>riti('«.

45
o

3°

45
'5
o
o
o
o
o
o

55
20

•5

Kosniin.
Charts.

KmseiisleriL

Ward, 1855.
Krusensleru.

Ward, 1859.

II
Tronsou, 185G.

138 58 o

'39 3' o

140 10 o

140 21 o

140 19 o

140 49 30

142 7 o

130 44 to

'3' 50 °

132 56 o

'33 5' o

'33 50 32

'35 19 °

'35 27 I'

136 2 o

Forsyth.

•I
II.M.S. If'iiiclies-
ter, 1855.

H.M.S. Uonwt,

1850.
Ward, 1859.

Tionson, 1S50.

XXIIl

Pane

572
572
673
673
573

571
671
574
574
574
676
675
675
575
675
675
575
575
675
57G
570
570
570
570
670
57G
576
570
677
677
577
577
678
578
578
579
579
580

681
681
681
681
681
682
683

689
688
689
689
589

690
591
591

XXIV

TABLE or GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
North.

LonR.
Kast.

AiithoritioB.

Page

Syl.ille Bay
Pi;)HO Bay -
Bullock Bay
Luke Point

JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

KlUSlU AM) SiKOK.

Cape Chichnkoff, Satano Misaki, extreme ■

KaKOsima, fortress

(Ikino Sima, South point

Komi Harboxu-

Kotsi Inlet - - - ■

Inland Sea.

Simonoseki, Moze Saki, South part

Ilime Sima, East end

Cape lyo, North end -

Tomo, harbour

Awadji Island, North point, light

Hiogo, Kobe Point

( )bsaka, Timposon fort

Kala, pier . - - ■

Hino Misaki, extreme

Tanabe Buy, Cape T.tnabe

S.E, Coabt of Nipon.

Oosinia, Harbour of Kii, Pisavama Rock
Urakami Harbour, Village point
Gulf of Suruga (Simidsu harb.), Miosaki
„ Eno-ura Bay, centre

Heda Bay, centre
Arari Bay, centre
Tago Bay, centre

»
•I
It

Volcanic Islets, S.E. or Japan.

Obsima or Vrios Island, S.E. point
Kosn sima, highest part
Miaki sima, highest part
Mikura Island, highest part
Redfield Rocks, southci-u
Broughton Rock, centre
Fatsizio Island, centre
Aoga sima, eastern summit
Koning Willom III. Island, centre
La Bayonnaise Island
Smith Island
Ponatidin Island
St. Peter's or Black Rock

Capo Idsu, S.E. extreme
Rock Island, light on centre

44 4.^ 45 ''36 12 30

44 46 15 136 27 15

45 * o 136 44 c
45 «9 30 '37 »o '5

30 59 o 130 44 30

31 37 o ii30 38 o

32 44 o :i32 37 o

33 13 o 133 '9 o
33 30 J '33 35 o

33 58

33 45

34 10
34 23
34 37
34 40
34 40
34 '9
33 51
33 40

33 29 8 '35 48 55

130 58

«3' 42

'3^ 57

'33 14

'35

'35 '5

'35 *8

'35 4

'35 6

'35 20

33 33 37
35 ° 5'
35 3 o

34 58 II
34 50 o
34 47 3

34 39 30
34 '3 15
34 5 o
33 52 o
33 56 50
33 39 o
33 6 o
3» 37 30
3' 52 48

Ii35 55 "
i'38 3' 7
138 53 o
1138 46 o
1 1 38 46 o
■'38 44 54

32
3'
30 29
29 47

4'
o
o
o

34 35 o I
34 34 20 i

39 i8
39 8
39 3'
39 34

38 48

39 '7 45
39 48 o
39 47 30
39 58 46
39 59 20

39 50 o

40 6 o
40 22 30

38 5» o

38 57 'o

Tronson, 1850.

Jiipnnoso chart.

Ward.
Japanese chart.

Ward, 18GI.

Russian frigate
Diaim, 1863-55,

Ward, 1860.

1m (Jraviere

Houekgoest.
II.M.S. Tribune.
Ponafidin.
U.S. Expedition

American chart,
1854.

691
692
602

692

598
699
600
600
601

604
606
608
608
610
612
611
614
617
618

619
020
623
624
624
624
624

626
620
627
627
627
628
628
628
629
629
630
630
630

633
633

■s.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXV

Authorities.

i Pogc

onson, 185G.

pnnoso chart.

ard.

paneso chart.

iird, 180 1.

iRsian frigate
Diaiw, 1863-55,

'ard, 1860.

I (Jraviere

tlouckgoest.

.M.S. Tribune.

anafidin.

.8. Expedition

nicrican chart,
L854.

598
699
600
600
601

604

606
608
608
610
612
611
611
617
618

633
633

Lilt.
Nortli.

Simoda Harbour, centre island -
Yodo Bay (Capo Sagaini), cxtronio
Yokohama, western pier

Stka.it of Tsuoar, Etc.

Cape Grcig, small rock off South side
TatHtipi saki, North side
Toriwi saki, centre of low island off
lied Cliff Point, extreme
Cape Nambu, small islet on Wtst side
Cape Mat sumac, islet off -

Ilakodadi Harbour, Putnmcc to Kamida
Creek . . . .

Island of Yeso.

Cape Brouuhton, East point

Cape Spanberg . . .

TortAtkis . - - -

Buy of Good Hope, peaked liill

Cape Eroen or Evosn . . .

Volcano Bay, Endnrmo Harbour, entrance

Cape Nadiejeda . . .

Matsumao, or Matsmai, city

Cape Sineko . . .

Capo Oote Nizavou - - .

Cape Kutusoff . . -

Cape Novosilzov . . .

Capo Malaspina . . .

Ikloimt or Peak Pallas

Cape Schischkoff . . .

Bisiri Island, or Pic do Langlo -

llefunsiri Island, Capo Guibort -

Cape Romanzoff . . .

West Coast or Nipox.

Bittern Rocks, S.W. rock
Tat)u sima. East extreme
Awa sima, N.E. extreme
Sado Island, Y'a saki
Niegata, governor's houso
Yutsi sima
Nanao, entrance
Astrolabe Rock
Capo Noto
Mikuni Roada
Tsuruga Bay, entrance
Oki Islands, North point
Mino sima, centre
C'ape Louisa
Richards Island

Kiusiu.
Wilson Island, summit

North Pacific.

34 39 49

35 8 o
35 26 II

4'
4'
4'

5 39

16 17

33 34
41 28 7

41 i5 24
4« 14 54

4> 47

V^S
\ +3

I '^'
41

4«

I 4'
42

42
43
43
44
44
45
45
45

38 30
35 o

20
o

59
33
15
29

39 30
18 10
38 o
•4 30
4* 5'

17 45
»5 50

40 31
39

.. " 53
38 29 36

38 '9 55
37 58 5'
37 50 30

37
37

37 >8
36 12

35 39

36 30
34 48
34 40
34 3»

33 54 30

I.ont;.

KilHt.

'38 57 30
139 42 o

"39 39 2°

140 2C 19
140 22 37

140 56 36

141 9 O

141 28 32
140 7 20

"4° 45 34

146 7 30
145 o o
145 30 °

144 12 O

142 55 o

140 50 32

141 9 30
140 28 o

139 54 >5
139 46 o

139 46 o

140 25 30

141 18 30
141 54 o

'4' 37 o
141 30 20
141 o o
141 34 20

•39 3' °
'39 34 17
'39 '6 7
■38 27

39 9
■36 55

i*"' 58
'36 54
'37 i»

36 8

136 4
'33 »3
131 9

'3' 36
131 18

Authorities. ! PiiRc

130 24 30

American chart.
Ward, 1801.

Richards, 1855.

Bruiij;hton.
Japanese chart.

Broughton.

Ivikord.

Bi'oiighton.

Krusenstem.

Von Siebold.

Krusenstem.

Richards, 1855.
Ward, 1869.

Richards, 1855,
Gouldsborough.
Richards, 1866.
Gouldsborough.
Richards, 1865.

Gouldsborough.

Richards, 1856.

Ward, 1801.

034
6t0
041

616
616
646
616
017
618

648

053
054
054
054
054
655
055
056
656
050
650
050
656
656
057
657
657
057

058
658
053
068
600
661
601
661
061
062
663
604
604
664
064

666

■x-avi

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Ll»t.
North.

Author! tioH.

Page

Swnin Reef ...

130 15

Ward, 18G1.

667

Yobiiko, I f arbour nntranco

119 49

Japanese MS.

608

Ilirado or Firando, Hiirho'.ir entrance

^^^

129 28

669

Kock in North part of Obroo Channel,

summit ....

^■^

ji 30

129 26 II

Richards, 1855.

668

Yonoi sima, South side of -

59 44

129 19 24

670

Hardy Harbour (Goto islands), Observation

Islet ....

49 °

128 56 39

671

Tamn no ura, entrance of harbour

43 30

128 38

Ward, 1861.

672

Cape Goto, extreme . . -

39 30

>»8 35 30

»»

672

Nagasaki, Minago Point

44 ^8

129 5' 5*

677

Pallas Kecks, South rock

14 17

128 12 30

Richards, 18o5.

683

Mcac siraa (Kusa-saki) Ears peak

128 25

682

Nadiejda RocV., P. D.

129 41

French chart

Retribution Rocks, centre

3«

120 46 20

H.M.S. Retribu-
tion, 1858.

682

TTdni sima, high peak ...

3«

129 29

Froncli chart,
184C, corrected.

682

m .^

( xxvii )

AuthoriticB.

Page

ird, 18G1.

667

)ane8e MS.

608

»>

669

hard", 18i>5.

668

670

671

rd, 1861.

672

»»

672

677

hards, 18u5.

68S

682

nch chart.

I.S. Jietribu-

682

m, 18ij8.

ncli chart,

682

4C, corrected.

SECTION III.-THE ISLANDS.

Uiscovcrcr.

I,at.
Nurtli.

I.onff.
West.

Aulhoi'ilic^,

I'.iRO

ISLANDS BKTWEEN THK

JlUUATOIi AND LAT. 10"

NOliTH.

Malpelo Island

81 36

Al.lham.

liiviideiieynv Shoal -

llivaduneyra, 1842

4 "5 °

85 10

Rivadcncyra.

(!oco8 iHland, Chatham Bay Obs.

S 32 57

8(S 58

Sir E. Belcher.

Wulker lalunda

Walker, 1814

3 34 °

'49 "5

Walker.

ChristmaH Isliind, S.E. point -

Cook, 1777

' 40 34

'57 «3

Scott,

Washington Island -

Fanning, 1708

4 4' 35

160 15

Wilkes.

Fanning Isliid, EngUih Har-

liour, flashing liglit

i»

3 53

'58 »3

Richards.

Palmyra Island

Sawlo, 1802

5 50

162 23

Sawlo.

Sainarang Isles, West Islot

Scott, 1840

4 55 9

162 22

Scott.

Kingman Roef

Kingman

6 27 30

162 21

moan.

1 )iana Shoal

English

8 40

'57 10

English.

Hakor Island

Foster

12 30

176 22

Reeves.

1 lowland or Holland Island

Belcher, 1842

'76 35

mean.

Gilbert AKCHn>Ki.Aoo.

Lat. S.

Long.

Arurai, Aroro, or Ilurd Island

The Eli:aheth, \»10

2 40 54

'74 40 49

Diitaillis.

Nukunau or Byron Island

Byron, 1765

I 25

176 40

Gulick.

Oiioatoa or Rotcher Island

Clerk, 1827

I 50

'75 39

»>

I'cru or Maria Island

1 20

176 n

»>

Tamana Island

2 25

176 7

»»

Taputoouea, Bishop, or Drum-

Bishop, 1789

I 20

'74 57

Wilkes.

mond Island

Nanouti or Sydenham Island -

Lat N.

'74 »4

Aranuka or Hendervillo Island

Marshall, 1788

'73 39

))

Kuria or Woodle Island

14 30

'73 27

Apamama or Hop])cr Island

»»

27 21

'73 57

JNlniana or Uall Island

ThoAYi.-nAe^/j, 1809'r

56 45

'73 4

lluJson.

Tarawa or Knoy Island

Marshall, 1788

I 29

'73 5

Wilkos.

Slaraki or Matthew Island

200

'73 »5

Apiang or Charlotte Island

I 52

'73 i

»»

Taritari or Touching Island

S. point

380

172 48

»>

Makin or Pitt Island, N. point

3 20 43

'7* 57

Maiiskall Archipjjlaoo.

Mill or Mulgiave Islands, anch.

Marshall, 1788

6 '4 37

'71 56

Dutaillis.

Majiiro or Arrowsmith Islandu

7 5

'7' J3

Chramtschonko.

Arhno or Daniel Island, E. pt.

„

7 17

172 7

Wilkes.

Pedder Island, W. point

7 10

171 46

Aur or Ibbetson Islands, anch.

8 18 42

171 10

Kotzebue.

Maloelab or Calvert Islands,

Kaven Ipland

»»

8 54 21

170 49

Erikub or Bisht ,> ^unction Id.,

S. point - . -

960

170 4

(iill
(it»r>
(11)7
(ii)7
701

(199
7:1
7O1;
70:>
7o;i

703
705

710

710
711
711
711
711

713

713
7U
7U

715
715
710
716

717
717

720
721
721

721
722

722

Ml l tf i' I ' j- iii^BP( i *!^' W »'

TABLE OF OEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Discovcfer.

I.nt.
North.

l.onft.

EllHt.

Authorities.

Pane

Wotjo or Romniizoff Islimls,

o «

Christmas Harbour

Marshall, 1788

9 28 9

170 16

Kotzobue.

723

Likiob or Count Huiduu ItilanJs,

N.W.; point

Kotzebuo, 1817

lo 3 40

169 I

724

Jonio or 8tfiep-to Island

Bishop

9 58 o

'69 45

724

Mojit or New Year Island

Kotzebue, 1817

10 8 17

'7° 55

724

Ail'iik or Tindal and Watts Id.,

Capeniur Island -

Marshall, 1788

10 17 25

'69 59

724

Taka or Souworoff' Island

II 11 20

169 jO

725

Hikar or Dawson Island

II 48

170 7

Marshall.

725

Kongelab, Bigini, or Poscadorc

Islands -

Wallis, 1767 ?

II 19 21

167 24 ?7

Hudson.

726

Kon^jrorik or Rimski-KorsiikoflF

Islands • - -

Kotzebuo, 1817

II 26 45

167 14

727

Bikini, or Eschscholtz Islands -

1825

II 40

166 24

Kotzebuo.

727

Wottho or Shanz Islands

Shanz, 1835

10 5

166 4

Shanz.

728

Kwajalein or Catharine Islands

The Ocean, 1804

9 14

167 1

728

ITjae or Lydia Islands

»»

940

'65 58

729

Namo or 5largarotta Islands -

»i

8 55 48

•67 34

729

I<ae or Brown Islands

Brown, 1868

900

166 26

Brown.

729

Jabwat or Princessa Island

Dennot (?)

8 20

167 34

Dunn, &c.

729

Ailinglabebib or IMusquillo

Group, Lib, North Island

Bond, 1792

8 lo

168

Chrumtschenko.

730

Ilelut or Elmoru Islands, South

Island . - -

The EHzubeth

7 '5

168 46

730

Kili or Hunter Island

Dennet

5 46

169

Dennot.

731

Kamarik or Barin;; Islands

Bond, 1792

5 35

168 13

- -nd (?)

731

Ebon, Boston or Cov<dl Islands

Uay, 1824

4 39

168 50

Hageuieistor.

731

Eniwetok or Brown Group,

Butler, 1794

1 1 40

162 15

Lutke.

732

North Island

lljilong or Arrecifos Islind, con.

Providence, 1811

9 39

161 8

Kcwlcy.

733

THE CAROLINE ARCHI-

I'ELAGO.

Kusaio, Ualan, or Strong's Id.,

Coquillc Harbour -

Crozer, 1804

5 21 20

163 I

Duperrey.

730

Pingelap or Mac Askill Islands,

North one

Musgravo, 1793 (?)

6 12 50

160 47

742

Mokil or Dupcrroy Isles, Aoura,

N.E. point

Duporrny, 1824

6 4' 45

■59 50

742

Ponapi or Seniavine Islands,

Kono Kiti Harbour

Lutke, 1828

6 48

158 26

Reynolds.

747

„ Ant or Andema Group,

South extreme

6 43 10

•58 5

Lutko.

761

„ Pakin Group, Kapenoiir

Island, W. point -

7 4 40

167 56

751

Ngatik or Valicntcs Islands,

Kast extreme

Tompson, 1773

5 47 3°

»57 3^

»>

752

Nukuor or Monteverde Islands,

East point

Monteverde, 1806

3 5'

tSS

D'Urville.

752

Greenwich or Constantin Id. -

Greenuieh, 1826

I 4

•54 47

Montravel.

753

Dt'capolis Reef

Decapolia, 1869

15* 5<

Decnpolia.

753

Oraluk or Bordelaisc Island -

Saliz, 1826

7 39 °

'55 5

Saliz.

753

Dunkin Island {'A -
Losiip or D'Urvilio Island

Dunkin, 1824

n 1

8 50

'54 '°

Dunkin.

751

Duperrey, 1824

7 3 4°'

152 42

Duperrey.

755

Mortlock Isk'S, Lukunor, Port

ChaniisHU

Moillock, 1793

5 ^9 20

'53 5S

Lutke.

7oG

^s.

TABLE OF GEOGEAPIIICAL TOSITIONS.

XXIX

Autburitics.

PaKe

Kotzcbue.

723

724
724
724

Marshull.

724
725
725

Hudson,

726

»»
Kot/.ebuo.
ShiiiU!.

Brown.
Dunn, &c.

727
727
728
72«
729
721)
729
729

Chramtschenko.

730

Dennet.
- -nd (f)
llagouieiHtor.
Lulke.

730
731
731
731
732

Kcwlcy.

733

Duporrey.

739

742

»i

742

Reynolds.

747

Lutko.

761

751

752

D'Urville.

Montmvel.

Decapolis,

8aliz.

Dunkin.

Dupcj-rey.

753
753
753
763
751
755

Lutke.

7oG

DincoTercr.

I.at.
North.

I.onir.
East.

Authorities.

I'.ige

Xainoluk Oroup, N.W. Isle - Lutko

6 66

16°3 13 30

liUtke.

757

Tiuk or Hogoleu Islands, Pise

Inland ...

Duporrcy, 1824

7 42

151 49 15

Duperrey,

768

„ Givry Ishnd

Tsis Id., N W. pt.

7 9

151 61 46

768

■I

7 18

161 48 29

D'UrviUo.

758

Hull liilands, Mourileu Island - Hnll

8 47

152 20

Lutke.

758

Lutke or East Faiu luland - Lutko

8 33

151 26

759

Namonuito Group, Piserarrld.| Ibargoitia, 1801

8 34

152 32 30

760

Taraatam or Los Martiros IdH. i Duporroy, 1824

7 34

149 29

DupertBy.

760

Poloat or Endorby Ida., Alet;

Inland - • -, Ronnock, 1826

7 19

149 17

Froycinct.

761

Suk or Ibargoitia Island

Ibargoitia, 1799

6 35

118 22

Cheyne.

761

I'ikelot or Coquille Islet

Duperrey, 1824

8 12

147 41 30

Duperrey,

762

West Faiu Islet . -| Ton-es

8 7

146 47 30

«i

762

Sntawal or Tucker laland -: Wilson, 1793

7 22

147 6

Duperrey,

762

Lituiotrek or Swede Islands

7 32

146 30

Lutke.

762

„ Klato Island

7 30

146 15

762

Olimarao Itdes

Lutke, 1828

7 43 30

146 56 46

763

Ifalik or Wilson Islands .! Wilson, 1793

7 15

144 30

763

Wolea Group, N. extremity - „

7 22

143 57 53

764

„ Eaour Island, E.

extreme ■ „

7 20

143 63

765

Foraulep Island . - Lutke, 1828

8 36

144 36

766

Kauripik or Kama Islands - Hunter, 1791

6 40

143 10

766

Sorol or Philip Islands

8 6

140 62

766

I-'iiis or Tromolin Island

Tromolin, 1828

9 47

140 38

766

L'lithi or Mackenzie Ids., Egoi,

East extreme

10 7 63

139 54 68

Wilkes.

766

„ Mogmog Island

10 6

139 45 30

Lutko.

767

Yap or Eap oi' Unawb Island,
North point

Hunter, 1791

9 37

138 7 60

D'Urville,

767

Hunter Reef

9 57

138 13

Hunter.

769

NkoU or Matelotas Islands, N.

extremity - ., Villalobos, 1545

8 35

137 40

Cheyno.

769

Palau or Polew Islands, Ky-

anglo Isles

»j

8 8

134 17

Douglas.

772

Babelthuap Idand, E. exlr. -

7 41

134 40

Macluer, &c.

773

Orolong Island, Errakong

Harbour

7 11

134 21

776

Pelelow Island, S. point

7 2

133 18 8

D'Urville.

775

Angaur or Niaur Island, S. W.

point ...

6 53

134 5 24

t»

775

St. David or B'reewill Ids. -' Wancicl;, 1761

134 21

Williams

781

Helen Reef, N.N.E. end -i Seton, 1794

131 ,52

Pedursen.

782

Mariere or Warren Hastings I.j Hutchinson, 1761

4 19

132 28 30

McCloUan.

783

Anna or Current Island - irunvick, \iiS\

4 39

132 4

783

Sansoral or St. Andrew Islands ; I'adilla

5 20

132 20

Maury.

784

Tobi or Lord North Island

Lord North, 1781

3 8

131 8

784

ISLANDS BETWEEN LATI-

TUDES 10° & 20= N.

Long. W.

Clipperton Island, rock . Clippcrton, 1705

10 17

109 10

Sir E. Belcher.

785

Passion Island or Uock

Dubocayo

17 11

106 21

Woolridge,

786

Rrvilla Giobdo IsLANns: —

Socorro or S. Tomas, Biaith-

waito 15 ly, landing place -

18 43

lie 51 15

Sir E. Belcher, i

787

XXX

TABLE OF GEOORArniCAL iOSITIONS.

DiHcovercr.

Lilt.
Nurth.

Wis

Autlioritlct.

I'iige

St. Benddicto or Nubladu Id.,

* .

North end

Villalobos, 1642

19 22

40 110 44

Colnctt.

788

Roca I'artida

10 4

112 4

788

Sunta Kosa or Clarion Island,

Sulphur Bay

18 20

114 40

Sir L;. Belcher.

789

Johnston Islands, W. islet

Johnston, 1807

16 44

169 39

Long.

168 60

35
E.
15

Brooke.

790

Smyth Island, N.W. extreme -

Smyth, 1807

14 41

791

AVakes Island

Wake, 179G

19 10

166 31

Wilkes.

792

Waiuana or Laduonb Ids. : —

Guam or Guauan Island,

Umata Bay, church

13 17 44

144 39

D'UrviUc.

799

Toint Facpi

13 19

144 37 30

Freycinet.

799

Port San Luis d'Apra, Fort

Santa Cruz

13 25

144 39 27

800

Port Tarofofo

13 18

144 46

Sanchez.

803

Ahavan Point

13 14

144 43

Freycinet.

8U3

Siiiitfi Uosa Shoal (p. d.)

12 30

144 15

Charts.

798

Kuta Island

14 9

115 16

Freycinet and

803

Aguijan Island, centre

It 53

145 30

Molaspica.

804

Tinian Island, Anson's Road,

village ...

15 69

145 36

806

Saipan Island, Magicionne Bay

16 8

145 44

Vansiltart.

807

Farallon de Medinilla

16 69

146

Sanchez.

810

Anataxan Island, centre

18 20

145 39

Freycinet, &c.

811

Sariguan I.slnnd

16 41

145 47

Sanchez.

811

Farallon de Torres or Zulundia

Rocks ...

Foster, &c.

16 61

145 50

Foster.

811

Guguan Island

17 16

145 50

Freycinet.

812

Alainagan or Alamaguan Id. -

17 34

145 51

813

Pagan Island, N.E. end

18 7

146 52

Sanchez,

813

Agrigan Island, S.E. pt.

18 46

145 41

Wilkes.

814

Asuncion Island, crater

19 45

145 30

Sanchez.

815

Urracas Islands

20 6

145 20

Freycinet.

815

Guy Rock, or Farallon do Pa-

jaros ...

Douglas

20 30

145 8

San.hez.

815

Britomart Reef

Bartlott, 18C0

19 18

141 34

Bartlett.

816

Lindsay Island, p. d.

Lindsay

19 20

141 8

Lindsay.
Wadsworth.

816

Florence Shoal

Wudsworth

18 6

143 18

810

SANDWICH ISLANDS,

■

ETC.

Hawaii, Kapoho Point
Nanavalio ...
Hilo, Waiakea, or Byron's Bay,

19 34
19 38

Long.
154 64
154 67

U.S. Ex. Exptdn.

828
828

Cocoa Nut Island, lijht

•

19 43

155 3

IMaldnn.

829

Laupahoi ...
]\Iauiia Kea Volcano

19 54
19 54

155 6
155 28

U.S. Ex. Expedn.

833
827
833

llpolu Point

20 19

155 58

Kiwaihao Bay, liffht

20 2

155 55

»i

835

JIauna Huahali

19 44

155 65

827
836

Kailau or Kairua Bay, N.W. pt.

19 39

156 6

>»

Kealakokua Bay .Kainehameha's

Tomb

19 28

156

837

„ Cook's monument .
Manna Loa Volcano, Pendulum

19 28

155 55

Thompson, 1537.

837

Poak -
South Point

IQ 28
18 51

loo 35

155 30

U.S. Ex. Expodn.

827
HO

TABLE OF OEOOEArniCAL TOSITIONS.

XXXI

Aiitlioritica.

rugu

Colnctt.

7H8

78,S

Sir L;. Bolchor.

78!)

Urooke.

790

791

Wilkes.

lOi

D'Urvillc.

799

Froycinot.

799

800

Sanchez.

8oa

Froycinet.

8U3

Utiurta.

798

L' reycinct and

803

Maluspira.

801

»f

805

VanHiltart.

807

Sanchez.

81U

Froycinot, &c.

811

Siinchcz.

811

b'ostor.

811

Freycinct.

812

813

Sanchez,

813

\Vilk.s.

Sanchez.

81d

t'leycinct.

81u

San.hez.

815

Bartlett.

810

Lindsay.

810

Wadsworth.

810

828

U.S. Ex. Expcdn.

828

yfaldon.

829

U.S. Ex. Expedn.

833

827

833

»i

835

827

830

837

rhompson, 1537.

837

U.S. Ex. ExpodnJ 827

Ulncovcrcr.

I,nt.
North.

LoiiR.
West.

Authorities.

Pi>(f«

ICilaiion Volcano
JIaii, liana Point -
„ ISIaiina Haloakala
„ ^Vail^ku (lathmus), N

side
„ Lahaina, liffhl
„ Kamaloa Hay, N.W. pt
Jlolokini Inland
Kahulaui, S.E. point

„ Koalaikahiki, or W.
point
T.anni Island, Capo Kamniki

„ Point Kaena

Molokai, Halawa, or K. point
„ Kalaan, or W. point
Oahu, Capo Makapua
„ Waimea Bay -
„ Kaena Point
„ Honolulu, Wharf
Kavai or Atooi, Kaloa point -
„ Waimea Bay
„ Point Mana
„ Hanalae, village
Niihau or Oneeow, Kawaihoa
point -
„ Oku Point

Lchua Island or Oreehoua Id. -
Kaula or Tahoora Island
Nihoa or Bird Inland

Islands and Skoals, Nohtii
OP Lat. 20° N.

Los AlijoB Rocks

Otiadalupo Island, AVcst islet -

Keed Rocks

Necker Island, centre

Arabia Shoal

French Frigates Shoal, islet -

Brooks Shoal, 11 fathoms

Gardner Island

Maro Reef

Laysan or Moller Island

Lisiansky Island

Pearl and Hermes Reef, N.E.

extreme ...
Ocean or Cur6 Island, Sand Id.
Brooks or Midway Islands,

Welles Harbonr -
„ Middlebrooks Island
Krusenstem's Rock -

Patrocinio or Bycrs Island (p.d.)
Marshall (or Jurdines) Islands -
Margaret (or Malabrigos) Ids. -
Grampus Ids. (p. d.)
Arzobispo (or Benin) Islands
„ Parry Group, North

rock

„ Kater Island, North
rock

Douglas, 1789

Marquina, 1791

Roed, 1850
La Perouso
Arabia

LaPerouse, 1780
Brooks, 1859
Allen, 1820
Allen, 1820
American
Lisiansky, 1805

Wreeh, 1822
American

Brooks, 1859
Brooks, 1859
Lisiansky, 1805

Zipiani, 1799
Marshall, 1788
Magee, 1773
Meares, 1788
Coffin, 1824

19 25 ,165 21

20 40 1150 3
20 42 1150 18

20 55
20 53
20 45
20 37
20 33

20 31 30
20 42

20 67

21 9
21
21 20
21 39
21 30
21 18
21 48

21 50

22 4
22 14

150 28
160 35
150 31
150 30
160 32

21 45

22 2
^1 39

23 5

24 67 25
29 10 60
37 35
23 35
29 30
23 40
23 52

25 8

26 31
25 47 17
20

27 50 30

28 4 46

28 14
28 13 30
22 15

28 9
21 40
27 20
25 40

27 45
27 31

150 43
150 57
157 7
150 45
157 18

157 39

168 4

158 15
157 55

169 28 30

159 43
159 53 30
159 31

100 17
ICO 48 30
100 9

100 35

101 45

115 45 20
118 IK 30
137 30
104 40
165 50
100 10 10
100 40
108 I 30

170 37 30

171 62 47
173 67

175 40
178 27 45

177 23 15
177 18 20
175 37
Long. E.
175 48
151 36
145 46
140 40

142 7
142 12

U.S. Ex. Expcdn,

Rnpcr.

U.S. Ex. Expcdn

Sir E. Belcher.
U.S. Ex. Expedn

Du Petit Thouars

Vancouver.

Rudfield.

Brooke.

Arabia.

Brooke.

Brooks.

Stan iko witch,

Brooke.

>>
Brooks.

Reynolds.

Lisiansky,

Zipiani (P)

Marshall.

Magee,

Becchey,

827
810
841

841
841
843
844
844

844

844
844
845
845
81'J
813
8l8
819
8.32
8.) 3
8,J4
8.H

8."i5
H.)5
H.)0
850
850

858
858
859
800
801
801
802
803
803
804
805

800
808

809
870
874

874
877
877
877

880
880

xxy.i

TABLE OF OEOORArniCAL POSITIONS.

Diacoverer.

1.nt.
North.

ICiiitl.

Authnritlcn. 1

•at;e

Arzoliispo iHlands, Peul Tslnnd,

. '<

8.W. islot

27 2

142 10

Boechcy.

88 1

„ Tort Lloyd, Ten-Fm.
Hole

27 ') 33

142 11 31 1

■1

882

„ Bailoy Iiilaud, South
islet P -

28 30

142 13

8H1

Volcano Islands, San AuRUBtino

Torres, 1(513

21 U

141 20

Kruspnstern.

8S7

II Sulphur iHliind -

24 48

141 13

King.

887

„ 8. Alessandro or

North Island -

26 14

141 11

887

Snn Mateo, Moor Island, or

Sylph Rock
KoHnrio or Dis ippointment Id. -

31 27

145 40

Nautilus, 1801

27 13

140 46

Qiiin.

888

Linda or Euphrosyne Uook

Linda, 18i3l

21 43 30

140 50

Linda, &c.

888

Douglas Reef or Parece Vela -

Douglas

20 30

136 10

moan.

888

Nautilus Rocks, or Vela

Bishop, 1798

26 20

131 15

Bishop.

88t)

Rasa Inland

1807

24 26 40

131 1

mean.

890

Kendrick Island

Kendrick

24 35

134

Kondriik.

890

Borod'.no Isles

Ponafidin, 1820

26 56

131 16

Ponnfidiu.

800

Yakuno sima, Mount Motomi -

30 21

i;^'^ 29

Cocillo.

891

Soriphos Rock

Yorabu sima, highest peak

30 44

130 46

•1

891

30 27

130 11

»i

891

Take sima, centre

30 48 (•

130 24

»i

801

Iwoga sima, highest peak

30 42 U

130 17

»t

891

Fowhattan Reef

Pou'hattan

30 41

130 19

Powhaitan, 1860.

C91

Trio Rocks, centre rock

30 45

130 6

French chart, 1846

891

Kuro sima, centre

30 60

I'iO 56

»»

892

Ingersoll Rocks, highest

30 51

120 26

892

LiNSCHOTEM Islands.

Blake Reef, highest rock

30 6

130 3

Cccille.

892

Kutsino sima, summit

29 59

129 65

»»

892

Kohebi sima

29 63

129 36

892

Hebi sima, peak

29 65

129 32

892

Naka sima, {>eak

29 53

129 60

893

Fira sima . - -

29 41

129 31

»»

893

Suwa sima . - -

29 38

129 42

893

Akuisi sima

29 27

y29 35

893

8ima-go Islands, highest

29 13

129 19

>»

893

Tokara sima

29 8

'29 11

»»

893

Yoko sima, summit •

28 49

128 59

»»

893

The Lw-ohu ob Loo-ohoo

Islands.

Sandon Rocks

Viieount Sandon,

28 44

129 38

893

Oho eima, Harbour or Bunga-

1860

low Island, North end

28 31 40

129 40

U.S. chart.

893

„ South end

2ft 6 30

129 22

894

Tok Bima or Crown Island

Broughton, 1797

27 44

128 59

894

Yerrabu sima or Wukido

-r

27 14

128 33

Collinson.

894

Great Lu-chu, Napha Kiang

bridge -
„ Deep Bay -

26 12 30

127 41

Boechey.

895

26 35 35

127 69 42

U.S. Vandalia.

898

Mbiaco-sima Ibla?(ds.

Tai-pin-san, Port Hadding
ton, S.W. point -

24 43 35

125 17 49

Sir E. Belcher.

903

Hoa-pin-BU, North side
Raleigh Rock

25 47 7

123 30

904

'. HM8 Raleigh, 183

• 25 67

124 2

904

Recruit Island

- Lyall, 1861

26 67 40

124 43

mean.

904

Authnritlcn.

l'ai;e

Doeclicy.

881

■1

882

8K1

KruHcnatorn.

8S7

Kintf.

887

8S7

(f)

Qiiin,

888

Linila, &c.

888

moan.

8S8

Bishop.

88t)

moan.

890

Koiidriik.

81)0

Ponnfidiii.

8U()

Cocillo.

8i»l

891

801

Poirhattan, 18C0.

CO I

French chart, 1846

801

802

Cocille.

U.S. chart.

Collinson.

Boechey.
U.S. Vandalitt.

Sir E. Belcher.

mean.

802
802
802
802
893
803
803
803
893
803
803

803

803
891
804
804

895
898

903
904
904
904

THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

CILVrTER I.

THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.

The country avIioso southern coast i.s doscribod in this clmptor, induu.^j that
long, narrow, and irregular tract which form.s tho junction Lrtwcen tho
northern nml southern continents of America. Up to a recent porioil it was,
politically and socially, most unimportant, and our knowlodgo of it was
almost inferior to that acquired by the early Spanish possessors. But sinco
tho dovolopiueut of tho resources and colonization of North-west America,
consequent chiefly on tho gold discoveries, it has rapidly drawn tho attention
of all interested in shortening tho highways of commerce, to tho facility it
affords for an inter-oceanic transit. Tho great success and surpassing utility
ofthnranama Railroad, completed January 27th, ISoS, has increased tho
desiro that a ship canal should bo cut through tho isthmus, and this grand
project is now receiving most earnest consideration.

Tho eastern portion of tho groat isthmus, that of Panama and Darion,
belongs to tho republic of Now Granada, which has tho exdusice privilege of
this important transit. On tho western boundary of this state is tho re-
public or state of Costa Rica, one of tho former confederation of republics
of Central America.

In a political sense, tho divisions between tho states on either sido of this
confederation arc, to tho South, tho River Escudo do Veragua, which falls
into tho Caribbean Sea, opposite tho island of tho same name, separating it
from tho republic of New Granada, lat. 9" N., long. 81' 20' W. ; and on tho
N.W. from that of Mexico by tho Rio Sintalapa, falling into tho Pacific in
long. 93° 20' W.

This territory, including an area of 105,054 square miles, is now divided
into tho five republican states of Guatemala, Ilonduras, Nicaragua, San
North racilic. u

3 COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.

f^alviulor, ami (A)8ta Rica. TIio rcdernl District, which up to 1830 wu8
common to tliem, wu8 u circlo round the capital, Sun Salvador, 20 milos in
diameter, witli a further cxtonMion of 10 miles to tho South, so as to include
its port, tho roadstead of Libortad, on tho PacifK'.

Tho N.E. coastof tho isthmus, tluit is, tho West India part, was discovorod
by Columbus in 150'_'. The greater portion of it M-as usurped by tho
Spaniards by 1521, and it was erected into a captain-gonoralship by tho
Emperor Charles V. in 1527. From tho fact of its being only a minor state,
its expenditure was on a less niagnilicont scale, and consequently compara-
tive benefit accrued to the people. On tho overthrow of the Spanish power,
Guatemala bocamo indopondont in 1821, and was subsequently incorporated
with Mexico ; but when Iturbido fell, it separated, and declared its inde-
pendence on July 1st, 1823, adopting a constitution drawn up for it by Mr.
Livingston, tho U. S. statesman. Affairs were, liowover, far from settled,
and much internal commotion continued ; but all Spanish influence was
thrown over at Omoa, September 12th, 1832. Notwithstanding its very great
geographical importance, tho resources of the countiy have hitherto been
very imperfectly developed.*'

Muuntains. — In describing tlio general physical features of tho country,
these naturally become tho first in order, influencing as they do the rest of
its surfaco.

The elevated range (a continuance of the Andes) in Central America has
no determined name, and is in many parts without a visible existence. It
commences in Costa Rica, at a distance from the Pacific of ibout one-fourth
of the whole bre Uh of the isthmus, and, at the beginning/ of this course,

* TliG iirincipal iiuthoritica for uii^ :rriptiou of Contral America aro wio woi-ks of
I'lidro Thomas Gago, an English friar, 1032, an cxcellunt and interesting work ; that of Don
Domingo Juarros, a native of Guatemala, in 1780, which lias been translated by Lieutenant
Bailey, U.M., 18'2o ; Thomson's Visit to Guatemala in 182 J, gives an excellent account of
much of tho intcriov; Kciso naar Ouatcmaln. 1829, by J. Hacfkons, and a work by the
same author, Centraal Amerika, 1832, both MciA : Ncmitives, kc, by Mr. Roberts, chiefly
on tho Atlantic side; a paper in the G. jgiiiphirn, Journal, vol. vi., 1836, on Costan'ica, by
Colonel Don JuanGalindo (an Englishman' ; P'.ocionario do Inslndias Occidentales, by Col.
Don A. de Alcedo ; L'Isthmo do raminui, >':c., by M. Michel Chcvnllicr ; tho important
works of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher, the Voyage of the Sulphur and tho Voyage of tho
Herald by Dr. Seemann ; the Keconnaissances Hydrographiques of Capts. do Lapelin and do
EosencoHt, 1854 and 18J7. Upon its antiquities and general information, tho works of
Dupais, Waldcck, J'ingsborough, Kouchaud, and Dumartray, may bo consulted. Ono of
tho mo?t interesting is that by Mr. Stephens, who describes the ruins in Yucatan, but who
passed through portions of the other republics. Tho most important work is that which
contains tho vai-ious i)apcrs by j\Ir. E. G. Squicr, 1858. Tho work of Capt. Bedford Tim,
E.N, ; tho Travels of Dr. 8chcrzor, and tho numerous reports issued by iho engineers and
explorers of tho various inter-oceanic canals and railroads, which havo been so industriously
brought before the world. These are uU noticed in the Appendix.

■•t-a-

C0A8T OF CENTEAL AMERICA.

) 1839 was
20 milos in
8 to include

3 discovered
lod by tho
ihip by tho
minor state,
y compara-
lisli powor,
ncorporatod
id its indo-
• it by Mr.
om settled,
luonce waH
) very great
thorto been

bo country,
the rest of

.merica lias

istonce. It

one-fourth

this course,

v.iu woi'ks of
; thiit of Voii
)y Lieutonnnt
nt account of
work by the
jbcrts, chiefly
^ostan'icii, by
itiileB, byCoI.
ho impoi'tant
oyagu of tho
apclin und do
tho works of
Itcd. Olio of
tan, but who
s that which
Bedford rim,
ngineers and
industriously

separates this state from Veragua ; in Nicaragua it inclines close to tho
borders of tho I'acitic, leaving tho hikes on the Ka^t ; in Honduras it returns
towards tho Atlantic, leaving tho wliolo »trt»« of Halvodtvr on tho South ;
traversing Ouatomala, tlio now city and Chimalienango stand on tlio top of
tho ridge, which now becomes moro elevated as it approaelios Mexico, and,
branching into various groups, forms, in tho western part of tho state, that
region which is demonstrated the highlands. The population on tho Vaciflc
side of tho chain is much greater la proportion to its extent tliun on tho
Atlantic slope.

The chain is apparently inteiTupted in its course through Central America
by the transversal valleys containing tho Lake of Nicaragua and tho plain of
Comayaguu, but still tho elovation between the two oceans is considerable,
and will be moro dwelt upon wlien we describe tho proposed canals, which
would render Central America of very groat importance in the commercial
world, should they oyer bo carried into execution.

The Zttke^ of Nicaragua and of Leon, or Managua, aro among tho most
important features of tho country. On the Pacific side, the rivers which are
mot with rarely have their sf^urcos above GO miles from the sea. The Lempa
is the principal, but is not navigable. The next in size is the Eio Choluteca,
falling into the Bay of Conohagua.

Altliough not possessed of good harbours, yet it is still superior to Mexico
in this respect. The principal on the Pac'fio coast are, Eealejo, Calderas,
La Union, Libertad, Acajutla, and Istapii or Sp.u Jose.

Volcanic plienomena are frequent, und theii* devastating effects have been,
at times, very severe. Tlie principal volcanoes now, or recently, in activity,
are those of ■ ,eguina, Isalco, de Agua, and do Fuego, and many others ;
of these the \wlcan de Agua is tho loftiest, being differently stated as 14,805
or 12,620 feet above the Pacific.

These volcanic cones, often separated from the general chain, and suffi-
ciently lofty to be visible 20 leagues ofi", are most magnificent land-marks, and
are thus most important aids to navigation. There are usually eight of these
volcanoes in activity — Isalco, las Pilas, Atitlan, Fuego, San Miguel, Momo-
tombo, Orosi, and Cartago. Of these the first, Isalco, is an excellent beacon
light, which overtops Sonsonate ; las Pilas is of recent formation, thrown up
in 1850, and although it has been in full eruption cannot be seen from the
offing. The rest of these volcanoes generally emit only smoke.

The productions of Central America are important. The Tisingal gold
mines, near the Chirique Lagoon, on the Atlantic side of Costa Kica, liave
afforded as much riches as those of Potosi ; but the vegetable productions
aro of greater importance than the mineral. Of cultivated articles, cocoa,
indigo, coffee, sugar, and cotton, are the most prominent. These crops
vary with the height of the country. At a lower elevation than 3,000
feet, indigo, cocoa, sugar, and cotton are grown. Cocoa is chiefly growu

■W1C--T*. vytrm'^vturrvi^^

-'tmitm^'m'

GO AST OF CENTRAL AMERICA.

along tho shores of the Pacific, and that of Soconusco was esteemed hy the
Spaniards to bo tho best furnished by their American possessions. Indigo is
general throughout tho country. Cochineal, or the nopal cactus, is cultivated
between the heights of .'],000 and 5,000 feet, particularly in tho neighbour-
HoDd of Guatemala. Of native woods, &c., abundance is produced, but
principally refer to West India trade.*

Ihe TRADE on the coast of Central America, whiclx is almost exclusively
British, is increasing rapidly. At Puntas Arenas, in the Gulf of Nicoya,
excellent coffee is expoi'ted, and is the best coffee in tho Pacific ; at Eealcjo,
dye-wood (Brasil-wood), &c. ; at I a Union (Gulf of Fonseca), indigo, &c. ; at
Sonsonate, indigo ; and at Istapd or San Jose, cochineal.
• Climate. — The M'holo of Central America is situated between the tropics ;
but the temperature and salubrity of its climate are as variable as aro the
diversities of its abrupt elevations, mountains, plateaux, ravines, sands, low
districts, lakes, and forests.

The country is within the zone of the N.E. trades, which, sweeping across
the Atlantic, reach the continent almost saturated with vapour. The portion
of moisture which is deposited on the Caribbean Islands is probably quite
restored to them in passing over the Mexican Gulf, and is then precipitated
on tho eastern slope of tho high mountain ranges of Guatemala, Honduras,
and Costa Hica, giving rise to a multitude of streams and rivers, and causing
all that face of the country to be a dense and almost impenetrable forest of
rank vegetation, unfit for the homo of civilized man, and still occupied by
the same wild tribes that were found at tho discovery of the Now World.

On the Pacific side, however, the trade wind still blows, foi the mountains'
are not sufficiently high to intercept their entire violence, but it is deprived
of much of its moisture, and tlius the climate is very different to tho Athmtio
side. Tho climate is comparatively cooler, much drier, and conscfinontly
very much more healthy.

It is raro to witness an ontiro day of rain, oven in the rainy season,
although sometimes, but rarely, a rain of several days' duration occur.",'
which are called by the Spaniards 2'emporales.

On tho sea-coast of tho Pacific, the seasons correspond with thoso of the
table lands, but tho temperature is much hotter. It is said that the Pacifio
shores aro healthy, although they are almost entirely covered with woods,
This salubrity is, however, not without exceptional districts.

On the coast, during tho fino season, which commences in I^ovomber and
ends in May, tho land and sea breezes blow alternately, with a clear sky and
but little rain ; strong winds rai'Cly occur during this period, except ai the

* "This country is so pleasing to the eyo, (xnd nboimding in all thinjys necessaiy, tliiit
the Spaniards call it Bluhomot's Paradiso."— ^(7/)fC, 10/iO, p. IGJ. An intcrcsthijj accnunt of
Iho nuthor's twolvo years' residence in it will be found in his curious and valuabl'; b(xik

IICA.

CO was esteemed hy the
n possessions. Indigo is
lopal cactus, is cultivated
cularly in the neighbour-
idance is produced, but

lich is almost exclusively
in the Gulf of Nicoya,
I the Pacific ; at Eealojo,
Fonseca), indigo, &c. ; at
ml

ited between the tropics ;
■e as variable as are the
5aux, ravines, sands, low

which, sweeping across
ith vapour. The portion
[slands is probably quite
and is then precipitated
' Guatemala, Honduras,
I and rivers, and causing
fc impenctrablo forest of
Q, and still occupied by
f of the Now World.
)lows, foi' the mountains'
)lenee, but it is deprived
different to the AthuUic'
drier, and oonseqnontly

3n in the rainy Beason,
days' duration occurs,'

spend with thoso of tlie

t is said that the raciflo

ily covered with wood?,

istricts.

ences in November and

ly, with a clear sky and

is period, except at the

n fill tilings necossaiy, tlmt
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COAST OF NEW GEANADA.

full .ttiid chaiigo of tlio moon, when oocaaioiially a titroiig broozo from Iho
iiortliwurd may bo oxiiononcod.

Ill tlio rainy season, May to Novombov, lioavy rains, cahns, light variablo
bi'cczos, with a closo sultry atmosplioro, lioavy squalls, •with thumler and
lightning, and not unfrcriuently strong gales from the S.AV., aro provalont.

During tlio lino season, the land and soa breezes set iii rogulai'ly ; tho
former are called el Tcrral, and tho latter la Virazon. Tho only winds to bo
guarded against at this season aro tho northers. These violent gusts givo
no warning but the noiso created by them u few moments before they burst ;
sometimes a thick fog sets in beforehand, which is dissipated at tho firat
gust. Theso gusts aro more frequent near the Gulf of Tehuantepoc or abreast
of the Gulf of Papagayos.

In tho rainy season calms aro frequent, and tho sea and land breezes
which aro felt on lino days, have no regularity. Tho prevalent winds then
uro ft' u S.E. to S.W., blowing strongly and in squalls, bringing bad wea-
ther and torrents of rain for twelve or fourteen days at a series. During
this season nearly every afternoon about 3 or 4 o'clock, a violent gust seta
in from the N.E. and lasts till daylight. Theso gales aro called chubancas,
and resemble tho tornados of tho African coast.

Oil tho coast of Central America tho currents aro variable, but almost
always sotting to tho S.E., sometimes rather strong. Tho land wind never
blows far olf shore, and, except in tho harbours, is not certain j tho sea breeze
is seldom felt, but there ai'o of course exceptions. ,

Population. — Tho inhabitants of Central America comprise three classes :
whites, or Creoles of Spanish race ; mestizos, or tho offspring of whites and
Indians ; and aboriginal natives. There are but few negroes or Zamboes.

There is considerable difficulty in arriving at a true estimate of tho popu-
hitiim of the isthmus in tho absence of any official data. Mr. Squior lias
carefully considered the question, and from various authorities ho assumes
that the total number of inhabitants of the live states as 2,108,000, distri-
buted thus: — Costa Eica, 135,000; Nicaragua, 300,000; San Salvador,
•133,000; Honduras, 350,000; and Guatemala, 890,000, San Salvador being
much the most densely populated. Of these 100,000 aro whites, 800,000 of
mixed white and coloured races, Ladinos, Mulnttoes, &c,, 19,000 negroes,
and 1,189,000 Indians.

1. THE COAST OF NEW GRANADA; PANAJitA TO POINT

BUEICA.
In our volume descriptive of tho South Pacific Ocean, the directions for
tho coasts of South America terminate with the G.ulf of Panama. And this,
although it lies eight degrees North of tho Equator, will bo a fitting com-
mencement for our present work, as it is really the first point touched on b;|''

I' MW Uft ar^l t t i .^j i m. i K .. ii njJn»inn.: i j j i i ]» ju ll ijt j niiiii i '] iii n

^ Ijl jt u pi lW II

e COAST OF NEW GRANADA.

the transit trado from tho Atlantic side. We therefore repeat from that
work those directions which refer to this portion of the New Qranadian
coast.

Garachino Point on the East, and Capo Mala on the West, may be taken
as the limits of what is called the Gulf of Tanama. These points lie E.N.E.
and W.S.W., true, 103 miles apart. The depth of tho gulf within this lino
is about 80 miles, the city of Panama being at its head. Panama Bay is
the space between the main and the Pearl Archipelago.

Until the survey of 184 i), by Capteins Kellett and Wood, E.N , we were
dependent for our knowledge on the old but excellent Spanish charts, and on
the still singularly correct description given by Dampier, nearly two centu-
rics since.

The BAY OF SAN MIGUEL, to the N.E. of Garachino Point, on tho
eastern side of Panama Gulf, was well known to tho Buccaneers, who used
it as the entrance to the Pacific in their overland journeys from tho Gulf of
Darien, which they generally accomplished under 10 days. Since Dampior's
time it has almost been forgotten until 1851, when the idea of a ship canal
was suggested to connect it with Caledonia Bay, in the Gulf of Darien.
This project, still under consideration, will be noticed in the Appendix.
The entrance t the Gulf is 6 J miles wide, between Lorenzo Point on tho
North, and Patino Point on the South.

Bney Bank, an extensivo shoal, drying in patches at low water, on which
a heavy sea breaks, is 6 miles in circumference, its inner edge lying nearly
IJ- mile from Lorenzo Point, but this passage should not be used, as there
is only 10 feet water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit with 12 feet
extends off its south-west end for 1^ mile, and 4 J fathoms only are found
ne; ly 5 miles from it ; vessels should not stand within that depth.

San Jose Bank, a dangerous shoal, 1 milo long by three-quarters of a mile
broad, in the centre of which is the Trolhpe Eock with only 2 feet water, lies
in the fairway of ships bound to Panama from the southward, being 16 miles
from Garachino Point and 9 from Galera Island, the south-eastern of the
Pearl Islands. It is easily avoided either by keeping on the main shore
until Garachino Point bears to the southward of East, or by passing nearer
to Galera Island, which may be approached as near as 2 miles, taking care
of the shoal patch and rocks off its southern side.

The FERLAS or FEABL ISLANDS, also known by the names of Mm
del Rey, Islaa del Idmo, and Ishs de Colombia, form an archipelago on the
eastern side of the Bay of Panama, consisting of 16 islands and several
rocks. Isla del Key is the largest, San Jose, Gonzales, Casaya, Saboga, and
Pacheca are of secondary, and the rest of minor importance. There are from
30 to 40 fishing villages scattered about these islands, containing about 2,000
inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the Pearl fishery, which is said to produce
about two gallons of pearls a year ; the shells also form a lucrative article of
commerce. These islands are low and wooded, the soil fertile, but not much

GULF OF PANAMA.

repeat from that
3 New Granadiau

est, may be taken

I points lie E.N.E.

If within this lino

Panama Bay is

od, E.N , we were
lish cliarts, and on
nearly two centu-

ino Point, on the
;aneer9, who used
from the Gulf of
Since Dampier's
lea of a ship canal
) Gulf of Darien.
in the Appendix.
renzo Point on the

w water, on which
edge lying nearly
t bo used, as there
\. spit with 12 feet
ns only are found
it depth.

-quarters of a mile
r 2 feet water, lies
ird, being 16 miles
(uth-eastern of the
m the main shore
by passing nearer
miles, taking care

ihe names of Jslas
archipelago on the
lands and several
Lsaya, Saboga, and
e. There are from
aining about 2,000
is said to produce
lucrative article of
rtile, but not much

cultivated ; most of thorn belong to morchnnts at Panama, who employ
negroes to plant and cultivate them.

Paoheca, Saboga, and Contadora, with the iHlets of Bartholomew and
Cliipro, aro a group in the nortliorn partof tlio arcliipfluf^o, forming between
them a good and capiicious liarbour, well suited os a depot for stoumors.
Pacheca and Contadora aro covered solely by palm trees, unmixed with any
others, whidi is singular. Sabo<,'n, the largest isiniid, on the E^ist side of
which is a considerable villngo, has a roof oxtcmling IJ mile to the north-
ward, which, with Chipre to the soiitliward, forms the western side of this
harbour. Pacheca and Bartholomew being on the northern, and Contadora
on the south-easterk: ri^le ; the latter island hna o lathoms close to its north-
east shore, which is low and well adapted for wharves.

This harbour is about 2 miles long by nearly 1 broad, with an average
depth of 9 fathoms ; it has throe entrances, each possessi",-," a 5-fathom8
channel, which may be used as best suited to wind and tide. It is high
water, full and change, at Saboga Island at 4'', the rise and fall being

14 feet.

Vessels using the Pacheca Channel should pass within half a mile of the
small island West of Pacheca, and stand to the southward until the centre of
Bartholomew Island bears E. by S. i S. ; steer for it on this bearing until
the northern islets off Saboga open M'estward of Saboga, bearing S. by W.
1- W., when the vessel may haul to the southward for Contadora. If
entering by the Contadora Channel, a ship should pass half a mile to tho
eastward of Bartholomew Island and not stand to the westward before tho
nearest islets North of Saboga open northward of Saboga, bearing W. by
S. J S., which leads through. Care must be taken not to open them too
much, as there is a 2-fathom patch to the north-east of Contadora to bo
avoided.

Vessels from the eastward using tho Saboga Channel should pass half a
mile eastward of Contadora, and continue standing to tho southward until
the outer islet on the reef South of Saboga opens southward of tho same
island, bearing E. i 8. Steering on this course will clear tho vessel of the
sunk rock in this channel, which lies nearly 1 mile to the southward of
Contadora, and when Pacheca is shut in by Saboga, bearing N. J W., you
may stand to the northward, and run through the channel wliich is steep-to
on both sides. If this harbour were used, a few buoys would greatly assist
the navigation.

Chapera and Pajaros lie next to the southward ; there is a i fathoms
channel between them, but the ground is foul and it should not be used. No
vessel should attempt the passages South of Chaperd, Island, between it and
Isla del Eey.

Casaya, Bayoneta, and Viveros, with several islets and rocks, are the
largest islands on what may be termed an extensive reef stretching off from

COAST OF NEW GRANADA.

Iho iiortli-wiht point oi' Isla del Itoy, iibout 8 milfs Ion;,' l.y it broail, llio
liassiij^os bctwoon thorn l»ciiig foul with occiisiomil Htroii}.? tidoH. A ahoal li
milo long liy tlirco-ciimrtors of ii milu wido, linving only '.) fi'ot water on its
Hhoidcst i)!irt, lir.s nearly -1 miles to the eastward of tho North point of
CttHaya. Tho whole of these islands should bo avoided by vossola bound up
tho bay.

ISLA DEL REY, tho main island of tho gi'onp, is about 15 miles long by
7 broad, with several peaks on it, tho highest being alxnit (500 feet abovo tho
sea. Numorous islets, having d(;op water belwoon thoin, lie off its we.stcia
Hhoro, extending iJ miles from tho eoast, but thoy should not bo appi\>aeliod
by Btrangors within tho depth of 10 fathoms. Coeos roiiil, its southern ex-
treme, is a romarkablo promontory jutting into tho sea, 4 miles long by about
1 wide, its oxtrouio cliff being crowned by an umbrolla-liko tree, whieh makes
it conspicuous. East of this point is tho fine JJtii/ of 67. J:'/mo, with convc-
iiiont anchorage in all parts, and n good etroaiu of water at Lomon Toint, in
tho bight of tho bay.

Tho eastern shcjro has also i.slands off it, but thoy are stoop-to, and may
be approached within half a mik', with the exception of Canas Island, at tho
eastern point, whoro there is a a -fathom patch lying outside a sunk rock
nearly 1 i milo from tho shore.

Sau Miguel, tho principal town of the.so islandi?, on tho North side of Ishi
del Rey, i.s of somo size, possessing a conspicuous church ; it is, however,
badly situated, landing being diirieult at low Avator. Two hills— tho Cerro
Congo and Cen-o Vali— lie to tho southward of it, tho former being -181 foot
high. Supplies are uncertain and dear, being generally all sent to Panama.
Care must bo taken in approaching it, as tho bottom is irregular and rocks
abundant.

OALERA, a small island, generally the first land made by vessels bound
to Panama, is 7\ miles to tho south-oast of Coeos Point, like which it is re-
markable for its umbrella-treo. A clilf forms its southern side, sloping
down to a beach on tho North, and to the southward u reef runs off for
nearly 1 milo. This island should not bo approached within tho depth of
10 fathoms, but there is a good passage betwoeu it and Coeos Point, by using
which tho vessel will bo clear of tho San Jose Bank.

GONZALES lies on the AVest side of Isla del Eey, with a broad deep
channel between it and tho islets before mentioned. It is about 12 miles in
circumferenco, and has on its northern side two bays protected from tho
North by tho Islands of SePiora and Seuorita. These bays, called Peiri/ and
Miiificimne, aro divided by the little peninsula of Trapiche, off the East point
of which is a rocky ledgo, terminating in a shoal, with 14 feet water.

A largo stream of water runs into the sea on tho western side of Magi-
cienne Bay. This bay, however, is small and shoal, without tho advantages
of Perry Bay, which is 1 milo wido, and ruus back for tho sumo distance.

GULP OF PANAMA.

■ liy broacl, tlio
Jos. A bhoiil IjJ
IV'of wiitor on its
3 Nortli pi lint of
VOHSola bound ui>

15 milt'S long by
00 feet above tho
lie oif its wcbtcni
ot bo ap|ii\>ui;Jiod

its southern ox-
los long by about
roe, whidi makes
Imo, with eonvc-
Lonion Point, in

oop-to, and may
las Ihiland, at tho
jide a sunk rock

'orth sido of lulu
; it is, liowever,
hills — tho Cerro
ir being *181 foot
sent to Pauaina.
gular and rocks

)y vessels bound
■which it is ro-
irn fiido, sloping
I'eef runs off for
lin the depth of
i Point, by using

h a broad decii
bout 12 miles in
tectcd from tho
called rcrri/ and
IT the East point
3t water,
n sido of Magi-
< tho advantages
mo distance.

(b.iizalos was purchusod in December, lH.-,7, by tho Ihitish Uovorniucnt of
an American ci(i/cu for !:i,00l), tho Now Gramida Government consonling,
mid retaining tho sovereignty. No building was to bo erected on it, but a
vessel was to be moored. Jt was intended as a watering station for 11. M.
llect. ^ciwrii and Sciwriln, including tho shoal olf Iheir eastern side, are
about one mile long, and lii^ nearly tho same distance northward of Trapicho,
Avilh a 7 fathoms channel botwocn, stoop-to on both sides.

It is high water, full and change, in Perry Hay, at .')i' 50'" ; tho vise being
K) feet. Tho tide stream is not felt in tho anchorage, but thoro is a cousi-
derablo set olf lln^ island, th.^ ilood setting to tho northward, and ebb to tho
soutliward, tiio latter being generally tho stronger.

San Jose Island lies 1 miles directly South of Gonzahs; tho summit forms
a iablo land. Nearly 2 miles S.E. from tho Iguana Point, tho northern ex-
treme of tho island, is a large waterfall, running into tho sea, and formiu"-
an excellent watering place.

Passage Rock is a dangerous sunk rock, Mitli 12 and 9 fathoms alongside
of it, lying near the centre of tho channel, between San Jose and Gonzales,
which otherwise is doop and clear. It is 1.} milo from Gonzales, and 2\
miles from San Jose. Vessels should koep between tho Sau Jose shore and
this rock.

The COAST-— ./>Vr?i'rt Point forms with Lorenzo Point, front which it is dis-
tant 2 miles, the northern point of entrance to tho Gulf of San IMiguel.
I'otli those points aro edged with reofs and outlying rocks.

Farallon Ingles is a small but high island, lying at tho edgo of tho shoal
off tho river Buenaventura, about 5 miles to tho northward of IJrava Point ;

12 and l.j feet water aro found on its western side. Gorda Puiii(, bold and
woody with 4 fathoms close to, lies 4 miles northward of tho Farallon ; there
is less swell after passing this point. Tho Pajitros aro two small rocky islets
4 miles from Gorda Point, with 4 and 5 fathoms to tho westward, but only

13 feet between them and tho shore. At these islets tho 5 fathoms shoal
commences, which continues in front of tho coast round tho Bay of Panama
as far as Point Chame, on its western shore. Tho JUiar TrinUhtd, 2\ miles
from the northern islet, has a low rocky point forming its south-west point of
entrance. A 3 fathom channel was found into this river, extending IJ-
milo from tho point. Shag Rod, a barren islet, frequented by birds, wit'.
shoal water round it, lies 2i miles from this entrance. Manfjuc and ^Foja-
ymij, 7 miles from tho Eiver Trinidad, aro high wooded islets at tido time.
Thero is a depth from 10 to 12 feet water to tho westward of them. Jliva-
Cltiman, to tho northward of those islands, is wido at tho mouth, but shoal,
being nearly dry at low water. On tho eastern side, under a hill, is tho
small town of Chiman. This was tho spot to which I'izarro retired in 152.5,
after boating about for 70 days with much danger and incessant fatigue,

r -e^viti^r-^^ikaire*--.— ^-r-i"-**— -• •■

JO COAST OF NEW OBANADA.

withoiit being nWo to mnko nny ndvonco to the Bouthwnrd. IIo was Jioro
joined l)y Almngro, and the following year Ihcy Hoilod again for Porn.

Pelado Islet, W. by N. 4 miles IVom Maiiguo islet, directly off the mouth
of tho llivor Chiman, is a flat level islet of smuU extent and about (JO foot
high ; it has no trees, but is covered with a coarse prickly shrub ; is steep-to
on all sides, and forms a useful mark to vessels bound up tho bay for rauamn,
who need not go inshore of it.

Chepillo Island, .') miles from Telado, is described by Dampior as the
most pleasant island in tho Bay of Tanama ; it lies off tho mouth of tho
llh'cr Chcpo, about 2 miles Irom i'>o eoast, and is one mile long by ono-half
broad, very fertile, being low on the^o^th side, and rising by a gentle ascent
towards tho South, over which is a ro)unrkable tree. This tree also forms an
excellent mark to vessels bi^'iml up tiie bay ; tho southern point may be ap-
proached within a mile, but the other side.^ arc shoal, a reef running off its
northern point in the direction of tho river. Tho coast between this island
and I'olado is low ri /cr land with mungrovo bushes.

The land North of theso rivers is of some elevation. Column Peal and
Asses Ears, about 12 miles North of Chiman, and Tliumh Peali, at tho West
extreme of the range, are conspicuous.

Chepc River extends some distance into tho interior of tho isthmus, having
its rise near tho head of tho Savannah river. The entrance is to the east-
ward of Chepillo Island, through a 10 feet channel, about 3 cables broad.
Vessels should stand no nearer than 6 fathoms between Chepillo and
Panama.

PANAMA.

PANAMA is one of the " Gates of the Pacific," and from the very earliest
times has held an importi^iii; position in the connection between tho Old
W jrld and tho Pacific. For within a year of the discovery of tho great
ocean a town was established in its vicinity.* During tho Spanish occupa-
tion of these regions, it was periodically the scene of much activity, as the
plate-fleet from I ama, with numerous merchant vessels with goods and
treasure, came every three years for their transport across tho isthmus to
Porto Bello. This continued, more or less, to the downfall of tho Spanish
power in Americi, but was also serio'.isly affected by the establishment of a
regular commerce round Cape Horn. With tho growth of trans-oceanic
steam navigation it began again to revive, but the gold diggings in California

* " Nata, on tho West side of tho Bay of Panama, was tho first town built by tho Spa-
niards on tho coast of tho South Sea. It was founded in 1517. The follo\ving your they
established themselves at Panama."— J/i?rrw(i, Ilktoria de las Lidias Occidentals, dec. 2,
lib. iv. chap. 1.

riMii

PANAMA.

IIo was lioro
or Porn,
off the mouth

about GO fuot
•lib ; is stoop-to
ly for Puuamn,

•ampier as the
mouth of tho
ig by ono-hnlf
a gontle ascent
e also forms an
iut may be np-
running off its
con this ishind

lumn Peak and
I; at tho West

isthmus, having

10 is to the east-

3 cables broad.

Chepillo and

the very earliest
otwoen tho Old
•y of tho great
Spanish occupa-
activity, as the
with goods and
tho isthmus to
of tho Spanish
iblishmont of a
of trans-oceanic
Qgs in California

suddenly brought it into prosperity, which was wonderfully cnlmiicod by tho
completion of tho railroad in lh.')5.

Immediutoly about Panama, E&st u'.ong the coast, and N.W. from it, tho
land is low and flat, but West and N.E. the mountains approach it closely ;
nnd from a liill called Cnro Ancon, about a mile West from the city, and .VIO
feet high, an excellent bird's-eyo view is obtained of tho whole adjoining
country, including tlin city, tho island in tho bay, tho neighbouring planta-
tions, tho mountains of Yoragua, tho Pearl Islands, tho iiat country towards
Chagres, the elevated chain between Porto-Bello and Panama, the Rio
Grande, tho low land along tho coast towards 'ho Pacora and Chepo,
Panama Vieja, &c., all which come successively under review, and togotlier
constitute a landscape beyond measure beautiful.

Tho city consists of two parts, tho city proper of San Felipe, occupying
the peninsula, and tho suburb of Santa Ana, on tho isthmus. It is at tho
latter that the railway terminus is, and therefore tho city has not benefited
so much by the traffic it brings, as tho greatest i)art of tho merchandize and
passengers do not enter the city. Panama suffers much from want of proper
drainage, which is inexcusable, as there are such faciliti(!S in the great rise of
tide. Of late years it has somewhat improved in this respect, but in other
regards tho same indolence and inactivity are evident in tim ruinous public
buildings, and want of cntorpriso that were so manifest of old.*

Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in tropical re-
gions, but are generally dear ; provisions of excellent quality may, however,
be obtained from the United States by ships requiring them ; and, when time
will admit of it, getting such from the States is far preferable to purchasing
in the markets of Colon or Panama.

Water can be obtained at Panama from tho tank of the United States'
mail steamers ; but it is cheaper at Taboga, whore it may bo purchased at
two dollars a tun. Coal may be bought here nt times from the mail compa-
nies, but it is generally dear. Consuls of all nations reside at Panama.

On board ship Panama is by far tho most healthy placo on tho coast of
Central America. Vessels of war have remained hero many months nt a
time, their crews continuing in a healthy state, excepting those men who had
the will and opportunity to indulge in tho vilo spirit {aguardiente) of the
country, which is cheap and easily procured.

The RAILROAD which connects the two shores of tho isthmus was origi-
nated by three American merchants. Mr. Stephens, well known by his
■writings and researches in Central America, and Messrs Aspinwall and

L built by tho Spa-
jllowng your thoy
Iccldentahs, doc. 2,

• Seo voyage of H.M.S. Herald, by Herthold Seoinann, vol. i, pp. 84— G, and 231—248 ;
also, "The Gate of the Pacific," by Captain Bedford Pirn, R.N„ 1863, p. 208, et eeq., and
the Handbook lo tho Panama liailroad, by Dr. F. N. Otis, 1867.

.12 COAST OF NEW GRANADA.

Chauncoy. Tlio fornior ^-outlomati iiiado a preliminary examination in 1 8 IS,
and then tlio partners entered into a formal contract with tlio Government of
Now Granada for tlio exclvisivo privilege of constructing a railway across
the isthmus, and the company waa secured from competition for 4'J years by
the government guaranteeing that no other iron railroad or maritimo canal
should bo sanctioned.

The 'work was commenced in January, isr.o, and was finished on January
28, 1855, under tho able superintendence, of Colonel G. M. Tottcn. Its total
length is 45 miles 3,020 feet; it runs on tho right or easterly bank of tho
Cluigres from tho Atlantic terminus, as far as Barbacoas, whence it crosses
tho river by a wrought-iron bridge, 035 feet long, in six spans. This is ex-
actly midway between tho two ends. The highest point is 37^' miles from
the Atlantic, and 263 feet above the mean sea level. There aro no loss than
134culvert8, drains, and bridges of 10 feet and under, and 170 bridges of
greater dimensions. Tho lino is only a single one, but there are four sidings
at Gatun, Earbacoas, Matachin, and at the summit. The line is altogether
constructed in a most masterly and perfect manner, and is maintained in the
greatest efficiency by stations four miles apart. A most substantial electric
telegraph is established between its termini. Tho t.^tal expenditure on the
railway was 7,407,553 dollars-about £ 1 ,500,000 sterling. The faro across
the isthmus is 25 dollars-i:5 is. U. sterling, or 2,s. 21^?. a mile ; only one
class, one of tho dearest travelling roads in tho world. Tho tiino occupied is
'4.} hours, and the cost of fuel, exclusively wood, is lU dollars for tho double
journey. Prom these high rates it has been a most profitable investiuejit,
15 per cent, being acknowledged, but probably much more, for in 1857 it
was 20 per cent, on the capital. Tho northern terminus, Asplnwull, or Co-
lon, as it is termed in England, is a busy, thriving Now England town, m
groat contrast to the Spanish raclfic terminus. Tho Panama .Station is to
tho eastward of tho city, and is connected with an iron pier 450 feet long, up
to which the smaller steamers come for the transport of passengers and mor-
chandisG between tho shore and the ocean steamers at Perico or Taboga. A
longer pier and docks aro very much wanted at Panama.

Petillo Point to the East of Panama, is a black rocky promontory with
two small hils over it ; rocky ledges extend from this point for \\ cables,
and off their extreme a depth of 10 feet may bo found. A great portion of
this bay betwe.in this point and Panama is dry at low water springs, yet at
its entrance there is a depth of 8 feet. It is termed FA imcvto, or port of
Panama, and it is here that most of tho minor trado of the Gulf is carried
on by means of bongos, large canoes niado from trees of such dimensions
that some of them formed from a single trunk have measured 12 tons. Bwij
roint, only seen after half-ebb, forms tho soull'orn horn of this bay ; the long
rocky ledges oxtei d 3i cables from the N.E. bastion, 5 cables from the S.E.
bastion in an easterly and 2.} in a soutliorly direction, forming a bay south-

jamiuatiuii in 18 IS,
tlio Govcrntuunt of
g a railway across
ion for 49 yeara by
. or mariliuio eaual

Unibhcd on January
[. Tottcn. Its total
lastorly bank of tiro
i, Avhonce it crosscB
spans. This is cx-
t is 37^' miles from
icro aro no loss tlian
and 170 bridges of
hero aro four sidings
ic lino is altogether
is maintained in the
t substantial electric

expenditure on the
ig. The faro across
Id. a mile ; only one

The timo occupied is
jUars for the double
rolitable investment,
more, for in 18i>7 it
3, Aspinwall, or Co-
[Y England town, in
?auama .Station is to
^)ier 4j0 feet long, up
■ passengers and mor-
Pcrico or Taboga. A
la.
alcy promontory with

point for H cables,
. A groat portion of
•water springs, yet at

El puo'to, or port of
f the Gulf is carried
s of such dimensions
asm-od 12 tons. Bueii
\ of this bay ; the long
I cables from thu S. E.
ibrniiug ti bay south-

PANAMA.

ward of Bucy Point, in which is easy landing after half-flood, on a sandy
beach in front of the Monk's gate. The general landing, hovrovcr, is round
Buey Point, at tlio market place on tho northern side of tho town. Theso
ledges around tho city, composed of rock with sand patches botwcon, although
now irksome and often dangerous to boats, afford every facility for erecting
substantial piers and improving tho jiort. As yot there is no attempt at
works of this descrii)tion.

Tlio R.W. part of tho Panama Road is embarrassed by rocks and shoals.
Although theso dangers aro mostly above water, yet this part of tho Bay of
Panama should bo avoided.

Perico and Flamenco, with tho outlying rock of San Josr, aro a group of
islands forming tho South side of Panama Eoad. licnao and Culebra, tho
western and soutliorn parts of Perico, aro comiected with It by an isthmus of
beach and rocks ; but at high water those prosen+ the appearance of threo
islands. Tliose four islands aro tho joint property of the Panama Eailroad
.xnd Pacilic !Mail Steam Ship Companies. Porico is tho head quarters of
United States mail steamers, tho bay on its northern sido forming a conve-
nient anchorage, while on tho isthmus, whicli is sandy on that sido, steamers
of 2, .500 tons havo been easily beached. Vessels using this anchorage after
passing Flamenco, should keep closo round tho North end of Poric >. and
anchor when tho isthmus opens. Largo vessels drawing over 20 feet may
coal at Perico, by passing West of the group at half tide, with Ancon
Tlill (whicli on that bearing raakeslikoa cone), just opeuof Ilenao, N.N.AV.,
pass about a cable's length from Ilenao, and anchor off its north-west end
in 21 feet, when Perico opens. In both cases attention must be paid to tho
timo of tido.

Danaide Rocks, a ])atch of conical rocks, on the eastern ridgo of tho road,
M-ith only 12 and 1.5 feet on th(>m, surrounded by ;5i and 4 fatlioms, lie E.
)>y S. 2.1 miles from the S.E. basfion. Tliose rocks aro awkwardly placed,
lying in tho track of vessels standing for tho anchorage, keeping their luff
with the land breeze. It is a favourite fishing place, and vessels sliould
avoid canoes seen in that vicinity, as they are probably fishing on tho rocks.
Sii/pJiitr Jioch, a dangerous reef, one mile to tho north-west of tho Dana'ido,
have a rock awash in their centre. Knochr and lahoga lioch aro two sunken
rocks, with only 6 feet water on them ; tho former has a red buoy, with siajf'
and fing on it, and lies nearly ono milo E. \ N. from the S.E. bastion ; tho
latter lies a little more than 2 cables to tho S.W. of tiio buoy, witli 1(5 foot
water between and 12 feet inshore of them, but no stranger si /uld attempt
to pass West of tho Knocker Buoy.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in. Panama at 3'' 23™. Tho
springs range from 18 to 22 feet, and the neaps from G to 10 feet. Tho ebb
sets South from 1 to H milo nu hour, and is stronger than tho flood, which
runs to the N.W.

COAST OF NEW GRANADA.

Directions.— Sailing vessels bound to Panama should endeavour to get
within 3 or 4 miles of Chopillo Island, especially between December and
June, and so have all the advantages of tlio prevailing northerly wind. From
this point Ancon Hill will bo seen, and should bo kept a little on the port
bow, as tho wind hauls to the westward on approaching Panama. Vessels
drawing over 18 feet should pass ScAitli of the Danaide Eocks, by uot bring-
ing Sun ,Tose on with the Wost point of Taboga (the largest of e group of
islands about 9 miles South of Panama), bearing S.S.W., until the cathedral
towers are open to the eastward of Ancon, Having passed the Danaide the
ship is fairly in the road and may anchor according to her draught; if no more
than 18 feet she may have Tortola just shut in by Ilei'ao, bearing S.S.W. i
W., and San Joso open East of Taboguilla, the eastern of tho group above
mentioned. Larger vessels, drawing 24 feet, may come-to North of Perico,
with tho peak of Urava, the centre of tho Taboga Group, on with the East
point of Flamenco, bearing South, taking care not to open Changarmi north-
ward of Perico. If it is necessary to work up tho road to an in-shore berth,
tack on tho western side just before Perico and Flamenco touch, and in
standing to the eastward do not open San Joso of Taboga Island.

Vessels drawing 14 feet may pass North of tho Danaide and South of the
Sulphur Eocks, with the Hermanos Eocks on with right side of the peak,
between the rivers Grande and Falfan, then San Jose on with the peak of
Taboguilla bearing S. i E., leads between Sulphur and Knocker Rocks, and
tlioy may anchor North of the buoy in 16 feci, koei)ing it between Perico
and Flamen-'o, with Gabilan, a rocky peninsula West of the town, just shut
in by the S.E. bastion. During neap tides they may anchor still further to
the N.W.

Panama Road, although shoal, may bo considered secure; tho ground
being muddy holds well. A sailor, resident in Panama for five years, re-
marks, that during that time there was no known case of a vessel being
driven from her anchors ; and av ith good ground tacklo and common precau-
tion a vessel might lie there uU the year round with one anchor down. At-
tention to the tides and soundings of the roadstead will enable a vessel to lie
close in at times for the discluu'go of cargo.

TABOOA ISLAND, with those of Uram and TahugmUdy form a pleasant
group of islands, about 4 milea long by 2 broad, lying 9 miles to the south-
ward of Panama. Taboga, the highest and largest, 9:50 feet above tho sea,
is well cultivated, with a considerable villugo on its N.E. side. To tho
northward of the village is the Morro of Talwga, a small hill, connected witli
tho main island by n low sandy isthmus, covered at high water. This place
is the hoad-quartei'3 of the Pacific Mail Company who have here a stonm fac-
tory and coal stores, also a gridiron, 300 foot long, on which H.M.S. J/rti/*-
cicniie, a vessel of l,25r) tons, was repaired in 18v'58.

Vessels visit Taboga from Panama to procure water and supplies, both of

PAEITA BAY.

eavoiir to get
December and
lywind. From
e on the port
ama. Vessels
by not bring-
of p group of
I the cathedral
3 Danai'de the
ht ; if no more
ring S.S.W. i
3 group above
jrth of Perico,
vith the East
ngarmi north-
n-shore berth,
touch, and in

!ld.

i South of the
of the peak,
li the peak of
cer Rocks, and
stween Perico
awn, just shut
itill further to

i; the ground
five years, re-
vessel being
mmon precau-
r down. At-
a vojsol to lie

*m a pleasant
to the south-
above tho sea,
idfj. To tho
ioniiected witli
r. This place
e a steam fuc-
a.M.S. Map-

iplios, both of

which are more readily obtained than at the city. Water can be procured
from the Company's tank at 2 dollars per tun. The anchorage formed by
the Morro is convenient, being about 3 cables from the shore in 10 fathoms,
with the peak of Urava on with high cliff of Taboga and tho church from
S.W. i S. to AVost. Vessels coaling at this island should avoid giving
liberty to tlioir crews. There is a regular steam boat communication with
the city.

Univa is a small, lofty island, separated from Taboga by a narrow and
shoal channel ; off its southern extreme is the small islet of Terajm. Ta-
boguilla, 710 feet high, also well cultivated, with some islets off itsS.W. ex-
treme, forms the N.E. island of tlie group, with a wide and deep channel
between it and Urava, in tho centre of which is a sunk rock witli 8 and 14
fathoms close to.

Tho coast from Bruia Point to Chame Point, a distance of 4G miles, forms
a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets, and vessels bound
to Panama should keep near the islands of Taboga, and not approach tliia
shore within tho depth of 5 fathoms. About one mile to tho N.E. of Viquo
Cove is a lofty treble-peaked hill, called Cetro de Cabra, forming a conspicu-
ous object to vessels bound to Panama, and frequently mistaken for Taboga
by those coming from the eastward

Chame Bay, at tlie head of which is a snmll river of the same name, is
nearly filled up by large banks, of which the largest is tlie Cabra Spit,
lying in the middle, with Tabor Islo on it. On the southern sido is Chauio
Point, a singular, low, woody promontory jutting into the sea, S.J miles long
by half a mile broad. Between this and Cabra Spit is a convenient
harbour, 2 miles in length by about three-quarters of a mile in breadth,
with from 3 to 8 fathoms water in it, and from 16 to 18 feet, close to tlie
beach of Chame Point. To the north-west of the river ; a liigh range
called Sierra Capero, and to the southward are the Cerro Ciiaiii. \ a group of
wooded hills.

MeloHcs Lknd is a small rocky islet, 2^ miles to the uorth-west of Taboga,
with a rock above water, lying about half a mile to the northward of it.
Vhami Island, with tho Pcriquc Rock, are of a similar nature, situated about
tlio sume distance southward of Taboga. Valladolid is a large rock nearly
2 inilee to the south-west of Chame Island, with 9 and 10 fathoms close
to it.

Otoque and Bona, with IMva Island and the Redmdu Rod; lying 6 miles
to tho S.E. of Chame Point, form a group similar but somewhat smaller than
Taboga and Taboguilla, being cultivated, and having a considerable village,
called La Goleta, in the bay on the western side of Otoquo. Anchorage, in
from 10 to 14 fathoms, may bo found in any part of this group, and all dan-
gers are above water.
PABITA BAY, large and open to the eastward, is nearly 20 miles across.

If)

COAST OF NEW OEANADA.

lyinf? 45 miles to tho soutli-west of Chami' Toint. Tlio coast liotwoeu is a
continuous beach, called Plnya Grande, in front of a low Avoodod bank.
Vessels from Parita Lay should shape a course to pass about 2 miles to tho
southward of Bona. Tho mud-flats aro found again on tho western sido of
Parita Bay.

Tijuana NamI, a littlo higher than the adjacent coast, and thus forming a
conspicuous object, lies about 9 miles to tho northward of Capo ^Mala. Tho
island is steep-to, except at its South and East points, with 15 fathoms in
vho channel between it and tho main. It is high water, full and change, at
Iguana Island, at -1'', tho rise and fall being lo foot.

CAPE MALA, which forms tho western point of entrance in tho Gulf of
Panama, is a low but cliffy point with outlying roclcy lodges, having deep
water close to them Tho land from tho north-west slopes gradually down
to tho soa at this point from a considerable distanco, maldng tlio exact capo
difficult to distinguish, unless tho breakers aro scon. On opening tho gulf
round this a strong southerly sot is generally experienced, especially in tho
dry season.

The PROVINCE of VERAGUAS, tho western extremity of New Granada,
was but little known till tho surveys of Capt. Kcllett and Capt. Jas. Wood
in 1818—9, and Captain do Posencoat in 185-1-— 7, made us ncriuaintcd with
its coasts. Of tho interior we are still almost as ignorant as Moro tho early
historians of Columbus. Tho relative poverty of tho region lias never at-
tracted any attention, or raised any commercial products. Tho native popu-
lation, chiefly Indian, does not exceed 50,000 in number. Some of these
aro occupied during part of tho year in collecting pearls and pearl oyster
filiells, and also tortoise-shells, for which ono or two vessels annimlly visit
tho dilTcrent islands and harbours, of which that of David is tho chief, tho
town being tho capital of tho province.

In front of tho coast is an archipelago, or rather range of islands, running
generally parallel with it, and leaving a channi'l, 10 or I'i miles broad,-
within ilin four groups which tliey form. Tho coast itself abounds in cx-
c^dlent and spacious harbours, and throughout landing is easy and safe.
There aro no barred rivers nor outlying shoals, but then there is littlo moro
than tho vast primeval forest to visit.

Los Frailes aro two reumrkaldo rocks, tlic southern one of which is 12.
miles S.W. \ S. from Cape Malay. They are 2} miles apart, in a N.N.W.
and S.S.E. direction, and aro bold-to. They aro a good mark for approach-
ing Capo Mala. In leaving tho Bay of Panama, tho cape should not be
approached too closely, as tho current shifts from its easterly direction to tho
S.AV. outside it. Tho coast trends nearly due West from Cape ISfala, and
at 13.1 miles is tho small island of Jloiado or rouiilo. Not far from this thero
is a commodious creek, according to nativo report, or river, accessible for
vessels of any draught, having iO or 12 fathoms depth, and affording a sup-

THE BAY OF MONTIJO.

between is a
•woodod bank.
2 miles to tlio
vostcrn sldo of

Ims fin-niing a
po ^Malii. Tho
15 fathoms in
and change, at

n tho Gulf of
■s, having deep
radually down
tlio exact capo
ening the gnlf
pecially in tho

New Granada,
ipt. Jas. Wood
cqiiainted with
wci'o tho early
. lias never at-
le native popu-
Somo of these
id pearl oyster
annually visit
tho chief, tho-

ilands, running
2 miles broad,-
ibounds in cx-
casy and safe,
e is little nioro

of which is 12.

, in a N.N.W.

k for approach-
should not bo

direction to tho

'apo ^lala, and
from this thero

•:, accessible for

affording a sup-

ply of fresh water. Tho coast beyond this trends to W.W. for ir, miles to

Tuercos Point, and tlien 27 miles AV. by S. \ S., and terminates in Point

Mariato, from which it bears to tlio northward.
Tho only outlying dangers are a. slioal of 18 foot, lying U milo olf shore,

at 2 miles E. by N. of Point Puereos ; and another roof, of sonio extent, a

mile olf shore, and -1 miles W.S.W. of Point Puereos. Tho rest of tho coast

is <|uite bold-to.
Mariato Point is in lat. 7 12' N., long. 80 51' 30' W. It is bold and

bold-to. At ry miles N.W. liy W. from it is a snmll wooded i.sland, iy<jnaijm,

which has deep water close outside it.
The BAY of MONTIJQ is 2;} miles north^\■ard of Point Mariato. It is an

extensive gnlf, in front of which is the long and narrow island of Ceh„co,

whuth nearly encloses it to the soutliward, and tho channel to tho wostv. ard
of it is partly occupied ],y the island Gobernador. Tho bay is thus com-
pletely sheltered, but nnfortunatuly the depths inside are so irregular, that
it is useful only to vessels of small draught. There is a deep channel to
tho East of Cebaco, which shoals suddenly from 12 fathoms to 6, and then
to S:i fathoms, at 4 miles North of tho East point of Cebaco. Keep along
the East side of tho bay, taking care to avoid tho rock San Juan, distant about
1 i milo from tho land, and also some others farther to the North, and you
may thus reach Loones hland, at the head of tho bay. There is anotlior
channel to the West of Cebaco, passing on either side of Gobernador, but
that between Gobernador and Ihava Point, on the North shore, is preferable,
because tho southern clmnnel is narrower, and tho tidal stream through it
much stronger. In this western entrance to the bay a vessel should not go
farther in than in 4 fathoms. Tliero is good shelter for vessels of light
draught under the "West shore of tho bay, which is easily reached. It is
necessary to be very careful with the lead, on account of tlio steep banks
which extend throughout tho bay as far as Leones Island.

QUIBO or COIBA was surveyed by Captain James Wood, E.N. It is
the largest of the islands olf this coast, and is GO miles in circumference.
The interior consists of line plains covered with magnificent forests, as yet
untouched. In tho fine season tliere are abundant streams, and there aro
numerous anchorages around its shores, but it possesses no harbour, properly
so called.

It was a favourite resort in early times, as vessels coming to its bays
were free from molestation, and its line timber was much prized. Its
western face is clear of danger, but there is a shoal nearly a mile in breadth
against its southern extremity; and outside of this, 2^ miles olf the shore,
is a dangerous 6-feot shoal, called the Ilill Rovk, which bears nearly due
East 5.V miles from David I'oint, the N.E. end of Hicaron, and the same dis-
tance y.W. by W. from Kcf/ada Point, the iS.E. end of Coiba. Thero are
several other rocks hereabout, but they are above water. ITemosa Point is
JVurlh Puci/ic. ^

COAST OP NEW GRANADA.

tho N.W. exh'omo of llio island, iiiid luis (loop wnirv closo oiitisiilo tlio
rocks and islets off it. To tho East of it is an open l»ay Jlcrmom Bai/, with
a sandy lioach. JJa/ftmir Jfcdd is tlio North point of d'oiba, and is 11 miles
north-oastward of Hermoaa Point.

Damas Bay. on tho eastern side of Coiba, and G miles N.W. from its S.E.
point, is the principal anchorago. It is about G.\ miles -wido, and has a
broad sandy flat at its head, through which tho waters of a small stream, tlio
Rio S(t)i Juan, flow. There is good anchorago in any part of tho bay, tlio
depths gradually decreasing from 30 fathoms, between tho two outer points
to 10 or 12 fathoms, within a quarter of a milo of tho sandy flats, which, as
the tide rises and falls about G feet, must bo guarded against. There is a
narrow inlet between tho reefs on the South side of tho bay, with 6 and 7
fathoms water, which might, with care, ail'ord protection from the S.E.

Tho island, as above said, is covered with a denso and tangled tropical
vegetation, tho undisturbed abodo of birds, ]'eptiles, and wild beasts. A
visit to tho land should tiioroforu bo conducted with caution.

In former times, when tho system of reprisals against the Spaniards was
80 vigorously pursued by tho Imccaneers and ships of war sent by England,
as related by Dampier, WoodosEogers, Lord Anson, and others, (iuibo was
a point of very considerable importance, as alfording means of shelter, and
also water, near to tho principal Held of action against the Spanish galleons.
In tho account of Commodore Anson's voyage, the whole island is described
to bo of a very moderate height, excepting one part of it (near tho N.E.
end), and its surface covered with a continual wood, wliich preserves its vor-
duro all tho year round. Tigers, deer, venomous .snakes, monkeys, and
iguanas e.xist upon tho island, a statement repeated by Captain Colnett
(1794). In tho surrounding sea, alligators, sharks, soa-snakos, and the
gigantic ray abound. Pearl oysters, which attracted tho pearl lishors from
Panama, woro also to bo gatlierod from tho surrounding rocks, and tho huts
of those men and the heaps of shells still existed at Colnett's visit. On the
N.E. part of tho island, Anson describes a cascade of very great natural
beauty, a river of clear water, about 10 yards wide, rolling down a rocky
declivity of near 150 in length.

Captain Colnett, who was here, as before stated, in February, 1794, an-
chored in Damas Bay (Port de Damos) in 19 fathoms, the Nortli point of
the bay in a line with the North point of Cebaco Isle, bearing N.N.E., tho
watering place N.W., and the South point of Quibo S.E. by S. He says : —
•* Quibo is the most commodious place for cruisers of any I had seen in these
seas, as all parts of it furnish plenty of wood and water. The rivulet from
whence we collected our stock was about 12 feet in breadth, and we might
have got timber for any purpose for which it could have been wanted. There
are trees of the cedar kind a sufficient size to form masts of a ship of the first
:-te, and of tho quality which the Spaniards, in their dockyards, use for

BAUIA HONDA.

uso outsitlo tlio
rmom Bay, with
and is 1 1 miles

I. from its S.E.
ido, and lias a
iiall stream, tlio
of the bay, tlio
vo outer points
flats, which, as
ist. There is a
with 6 and 7
I the S.p].
angled tropical
pild beasts. A

! Spaniards was
lut by England,
lors, (iuibo was

of shelter, and
)auish galleons,
ad is described
near the N.E.
reserves its ver-
, monkeys, and
'aptain Colnett
nakes, and tho
sari lishers from
s, and tho huts
i visit. On tho
y great natural

down a rocky

uary, 179-1, an-
Nortli point of
ug N.N.E., tho
5. He says : —
id seen in these
he rivulet from
and wo might
wanted. Then;
ship of the first
kyards, use for

every purposo of ship building, making masts, kv. A vessel may lay so
uoarthoshoro as to haul o(f its water; but tho time of anchoring must bo
cii!isidor(>(l, as the Hats run olf a long way, and it is possible to })o deceived
in tho di.stanco. The high water, by my calcidation, is at half-past throe
o'clock. At full and change tlie ilood comes from the North, and returns the
same way, flowing 7 hours, and ebbing 5, and the perpendicular rise of tho
tide 2 fathoms.

Hicaron, which lies off tho S.W. side of Coiba, 4 miles distant, is of a
triangular form, and well wooded. Its highest point is on the East side, and
is sao feet high, an eminence that commands a prosjiect all over tho adja-
cent islands, and tho coast beyond. Off its South point is lUcarUu, a small
islet, covered with cocoa-nut trees. The channel between Hicaron and
Coiba is of very irregular depth, but is safe and practicable.

llanchcriti, or ^,/«/Zi/Vy, is a small island 1^ milo long, and l.V mile off tho
N.E. point of Coiba. To the S.S.E. of it is a sandy beach, where there is
good anchorage, sheltered by a round and high islet. Wood and water are
easily procured. A Frenchman formed a small settlement hero on tho South
side. The channel between Coiba and Quibito is rocky and uneven, but is
apparently safe.

Afuera, or Canal hland, 4 miles E.N.E. of lianchoiia, is about midway
between tho North point of Coiba and the shore. It may be passed on
either side, tho only danger around it being a reef against its S.E. side,
which has a black rock, always uncovered at its outer edge, 2 cables' lengths
from tho shore. Tho islet Afun-ita nearly touches Afuora on tho North.

BAHIA HONDA, "deep bay," is well named, and is an excellent natural
harbour. It is 2;3 miles N.W. from the West end of Cebaco, and opposite
tho North point of Coiba. Should that island over rise into importance,
15ahia Honda must be its port. It is easy of access, perfectly .sheltered, wood
and water abundant, and easily procured, and is so safe that a vessel nuiy be
hove down, or any repairs done, without fear or hazard.

It was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher in the Sulphur, in 18;j'J, and it
was also examined in 1854 by Captain do Eosencoat, in tho Ohligado. Sir
Edward Belcher says:— '< On tho 4th of March, 18;39, wo moved on to
Bahia Honda ; another of our stations in 18;57. Here we fell in with a few
Chiriiiui Indians, sent to clear the land, but they were also very much afraid
of having any dealings with us.

"Wo fotmd this to be a most capacious, safe, and convenient harbour,
completely landlocked, and perfectly adapted for refit, heaving out, &c.,
there being no tide or current. AVater was in abundance at the beach, and
nothing wanting but a town and civihzation to render it a favourite resort ;
timber of every kind, and the best abundant. The islands at its entrance
are beautifully adapted for defence, with but trivial labour. At this port
we collected a large stock of parasitic plants in full flower, which continued

COAST OF NEW GKANADA.

to decorato my cabin for somo time, until forwardod to Euylaiid, wliero tlioy
arrived in 42 days in good ordor.

Senlinfln hhoid, whicli forms the southern point of the entrance, is in lat.
7043' 32" N., long. 89-^ 29' 1" W. It is small, and somo rocks lie around it
to the extent of about a cable. Captain do Rosoncoat also shows a detached
roof, about 2 cables' lengths to tho N.E. of it, which is not marked on Sir
Edward Belflior's survey. A smaller islet. Conn, lies a short distance South
of it, and both are separated by a narrow rocky channel from dqic Jahali.
Guarida Point is tho North point of the entrance, nearly a mile Nortli of
Sentinola, and tho depth between is tolerably oven all across, about 20 to 23
fatlioms. This depth gradually decreases within the bay to 12 and l.'i fa-
thoms 1 1 mile within tho entrance up to Talon Island, tho highest point of
which is only about 120 feet liigh, and boars E.N.E. from tho entrance.
Talon is rather more than half a mile long ; off its N.W. point is a small
island, Pueril; and off its South point is anotlier, J^spuda. TIioso separate
Bahia Honda into two anchorages, Cliinche Pay to tlio westward, and Lnjanw
Bay to tho eastward, tho former being moro extensive. Talon has but a
shallow channel to tho North of it. Tho whole extent of tho inner bay is
about o miles from West to East. At 2 miles westward of tho entrance is
Medidor hland, and off tho South end of tins is Tmvha, or Pacora, a smaller
island, bold-to on tho South side. Captain do Eosencoat gives tho following
instructions for entering : —

In coming to this harbour, after having mado out Muera in mid-channel
off it, the island Medidor will be seen. It is of moderate height, and must
bo steered for until the small islot, Tacora or Trucha, is mado out, lying close
to the South point of Medidor. There is a passage on eitlier side of this
islet, but it is best to leave it to port, as tho northern channel is narrowed
by the rocks off Medidor. Then steer for Guarida Point, or rather more to
southward. Tho entrance to the bay is easy, although it does not make out
well at a distance. To tho right, close in-shoro, is Scntincla hid, which should
be avoided on account of tho rocks which surround it ; and to the left is
Point Guarida, which is quite clear, and may bo ranged close-to. When
past this point, boar up to port, and make for a round wooded islet, Chindw,
lying in the N.N. W. part of tho bay, and anchor in II to 14 fathoms, muddy
bottom, sheltered from every wind.

The bay is separated into two parts by an island named Talon, to tho West
of the anchorage. The only population of the bay consists of a few Indian
families on this island, from wliom eggs, fowls, cocoa-nuts, and bananas, may
be got at a cheap rate. They are also the most expert turtle catchers, and
will furnish a largo quantity daily. Fish also is abundant. To the eastward
of tho island the extensive mud-banks, which uncover at low water, leave
only a narrow space for anchorage in 5A fathoms, but this is unimportant,
as there is nothing to induce a vessel to come into this part of the bay. The

» ' ■ jfijirf, ! m n^ n. » > <■ . > ^ ^

iiul, whcro llipy

tranco, is in lat.
C3 lio around it
lows a dotiicliod
marked on Sir

distance Mouth
im Cdjje Jalnili.

milo Nortli of
, about 20 to 23

12 and 1:5 fu-
lighest iJoint of
n the ontranco.
oint is u small
TIioso soparato
rd, and Lrr/amo
ilou lias but a

innor bay is
ilio ontranco is
icora, a smaller
!S tho following

in mid-cliannel
light, and must
out, lying closo
or sido of this

01 is narrowed
rather nioro to
s not make out
t, which should
[ to the left is
ose-to. When
[ islet, Chinc/w,
ithoms, muddy

m, to tho West
a few Indian

I bananas, may
catchers, and

the eastward
r water, leave

1 unimportant,
the bay. The

HATHA HONDA, ETC. 21

only dangers to point out arc a rocky reof a littlo above tho line joining
I'oiut Ponot and Puoril Islet, at 1} cables length from tho last ; and another
reef at the same distance North of Ouarida Point, on wliicli there are only S
feet water. The Oblitjado's anchorage was with Point (ruarida 8. 40^ W.,
Sentinela Islet S. \r W., Espuelii Islet, 8. 83 E., ('Iiiiulio Islet, Wost p(.int
N. l.l^ W. Captain do Koseneoat made tho positiim of tiiis anchorage of
the Obligado, opposite Pueril, to bo lat. 7" 11' ii'l' N., long. 8P lil' 0' W.
High water, full and change, at 3'' 30'" ; tides rise 12 feet.

Water is al)undant, and there is a stream, tlie Jrroi/o <fcl Cohtr, whicli can
be ascended higli enough in a boat to got good water ; but the most conve-
nient place is to tho E.S.E. oftho above anchorage, wliero there are two
streams, which, witli a hose, will iiU tlio casks rapidly. Wood is abundant
evtrywliero, tho forests are magnificent.

Leaving Uahia Honda is as easy as its access. Keep on tho sido around
Point Guarida, avoiding Sentinola Islet. The best time is in tlio morning,
when the winds whicli precede tho sea breeze come from E. to N.E. These
are sometimes go light that you must tow out by your boats. Having
doubled Point Guarida, steer for Trucha, leaving it to starboard, thi^ same
with ILedidor, and not attempting to pass through tho narrow and ro(i{y
channel which separates tho latter from tho land.

The COAST beyond ])ahia Honda is a succession of bays of different ex-
tent, among whicli tho three principal are Jronifa, del Romrio, and dd Pajiiru.
Tlie first is to the North of 2'uiid Ventana, a projection of which tho extremity
opposite Modidor Island is called runta Rohlv. The bay itself takes its name
from a woody islet on its northern part near tho land. It ia clean, but affords
no shelter against westerly winds.

llahia del Itomrio is separated from tho last by Point (lorda, the name of
which ia expressive of its massive character. It is recognisable by a small
round islet in tho middle of tho bay, about a milo from land, called the
Miu'/d, or Cahallo. Tho bay is included between Gorda Point and the Punta
del Miterio, which terminates in an isolated pointed hill; between those points
13 that of Eosario, which gives name to tho bay, and separating It into two
parts, the southern of which is called Pivai/ Jtay. At tho head of each bay a
stream debouches, but the anchorage ia open to W. and )S.W., and can only
be used in the fino season. The third, or Pajaro Hay, is miles from Medi-
dor Island, and has IG to 18 fathoms water. In each of tho bays a few
Indian families are found, mIio live by fishing and hunting.

The navigation along tho coast thus far ia quite safe close in ; but to the
North of Pajaros Point, the North limit of the bay, a long sandy shelf com-
mences, the Pldi/a Braca, which fronta the coaatfor 9 or 10 milea, and off the
Woufh end of which, at 2 milea from shore, is only G feet water, a bank ap-
parently formed by the deposits brought down by the Rio Litvenia. At the

COAST OF NEW ORANADA.

North ond of tluR bank is tho mouth of tlio liiit Tavawra, whicli hns no bar.
Nff/n'fn Jtliiffin on the West side of tho ontrnnco.

The Contreras aro two islets, with nuniorous rocks and islotslyinp; 10 milos
olT tliiH I'onst. Tho nnrthovn island is callinl Ilriiirfiiicn, and tin- smitliPni
PdJKrox. Thoy are ',)\ miles apart, and tlio soutlicrn island is 9 milos North
of Coiba. Then) is no good anchoraso around tlu^m. Tho O/i/if/tiilo an-
chored on the Nortli side of IJrincanco, olf a small bay resorted to by tlio
(ishormen for turtle and pearl oysttn-s; tho bottom coarso gravel, and very
bail liolding ground. Tho islands are uninhabitod. Thoy may be approached
witJKiut fear, the depths being 30 to 10 fathoms near them. Tho only danger
is a moderately high rock, tho Farallun dc Pronprr, which stands liko a black
tower, about 2 miles South from the South point of tho Pajaros. It was so
named from tho wreck of a French ship Lc I'ruspcr, which was drifted on to
it in a calm. Vessels should not Jiass between thorn, on account of several
rocky patches.

PUEBLO NUEVO was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher, in tho Sulphur.
In his book ho says : — " Our first halt was Pueblo Nuevo, in March, 18;i9,
at tlio mouth of tho Santiago, or Pueblo Nuevo, at tho island called by us
Magnetic Island, in March, 1837. Iloro wo recommenced our survey of this
river, following its branches up for some distance. Tlio r'vor takes its namo
from a small village, situated on tho river Santiago, where the Spaniards
probably first appointed the seat of government. Tho port is formed by a
neck or island about 3 miles in length, ■which affords good anchorage for
vessels of any class. Three larger streams discharge themselves into tho
main basin at tho western ond of this i.sland, whore tho apparent great en-
trance is situated, but so studded with rocks and shoals as to bo unnavigablo
for anything larger than boats. It is, in foct, an oxtensive archipelago, as
most of tho regions towards tho Chiriqui territory will bo found to bo on
future examination.

A plan was made, which will prove interesting to those who may visit this
port, for refuge or refit; but water cannot be procured in any quantity. It
may probably bo found by digging wells. Tho natives generally appeared
alarmed at our presence, nor could we induce them to bring off supplies.
IT ad our visit been prolonged, no doubt this would have been dispelled ; as,
after we fell in witli a negro who understood English, they appeared anxious
to sell pigs, poultry, &c.

Their principal article of trade is tho sarsaparilla, that of this neighbour-
hood being esteemed of superior quality. The stream runs fresh at some
miles up, but we did not either meet it or succeed in finding the town. Sugar
cane of good quality was offered ; and tortoise-shell, one of their articles of
trade, can be procured at tho season.

Sir Edward Belcher's survey was published 10 years later, and the place
was again surveyed in 18.04 by Captain de Rosencoat, who in his chart or

icil hns no bar.

nlyinp; 10 miloa
(1 till' Riiiitliorii
!) inilofl Novth
10 ()fih'f/,a!o aii-
MqO to by tlio
•avol, nnd vory
' Lo approncliod
^ho only diinpfer
ids liko a black
rofl. It was so
as drifted on to
ount of Bovoral

in tho Sulphur.
I Mnrt'li, 18;i9,
d called by xir
r survey of this
■ takos its name

tlio Spaniards
s formed by a

anchorage for
isolvos into ilw
larent great en-
bo iinnavigablo
archipelago, as
found to bo on

may visit this
y quantity. It
)rally appeared
ig off supplies.

1 dispelled ; as,
)peared anxious

;his neighbour-
fresh at some
le town. Sugar
heir articles of

and the place
n his chart or

riJEMLO NUEVO. ta

directions takes no notice Mhatevor of his Englisli predecessor, as is indeed
tlio case tliroughout the French work. It would seem to liavo been scarcely
nocessaiy f.,r tho two nations to have surveyed tliisuncuninercial region twice
uithin so few years. WJiat 1\>\\o\\h is doriv,.il IVoni Captain do liosencoat's
imniphlot, adapting it to Sir Edward liolcher'.s survey.

From whatever dirocti(jn I'uoblo Nuovo Is approached, it is easily made out
by tlio two liills or Jfurros, tlio Cai/a,/.. //,//,, on the Soutii sid.' of tho cn-
Irance, wliicli, at a disfam c, make like two islands. A conspicuous sugar-
loaf liill, about .') miles North of tho cntniiicc, is also a good mark, as it
stands alone, and is 5->() feet liigh. The two Cayado ]lills are -'JDO and •!()()
foot Iiigh. On a nearer view, two low and wooded i.slands come iit sight,
Silnt (Ir Afiuni, tlio Muiinetic hlaml of Sir Edward lielciior, and .V/Av? ih
Tii-rru, or Silla hiand, which lie nearly East and West, .'! miles apart, in a
line with tlio entrance of tlio bay.

The eutrancoof tho river is formed by a low mangrove island, as before
stated, which Captain do IJosoncoat calls rorcada. It is about i miles long
N.W. and S.E., and has a former channel to tho river to the N.W. of it, but
this is now only passable by boats. The .southern entrance is close around
Cape Cayado, between that point and a spit projecting a mile to the W.S.W.
from Ik'ltlre Point, the South extreme of Porcada, and whieli, as it uncovtu-s
at low water, acts as a breakwater to tho channel. Capo Cayado is so name<l
from its supposed resemblance to tlu' form of a bishop's pastoral stafl', or a
shepherd's crook, and has 8 to 10 fathoms close up to its base. Tho channel
here is not more than U^ cables wide, but the channel is straiglit, running
nearly East and West, with 6 to 10 fathoms throughout.

It is necessary to have a commanding sea breeze and the flood tide to
enter. Ueing a quarter of a mile duo West of Capo Cayado, you will see a
snndl round islet or rock in the middle of tho inner basin. It is tho Intnwi
of Belcher, or tho 7'm/w/o of do Eo.sencoat. Keep close to tho South cape,
and sLeer for this i.slet, and proceed until it comes on with Belitre Point,
the South cape of Porcada, bearing N. 2S E., when you may anchor in 7 to
!» fathoms, fine sandy bottom. Perhaps it is best to enter with tho first of
the flood, as then tho edges of tho banks arc plainly seen, which is not tho
case so well near lu'gh water. You may pass quite close to Intrusa ; but
the banks to tho eastward are very irregular in depth, so that vessels drawing
more than 17 or 18 feet should bo cautious.

Tho resident Indians say that the M'estorly winds which are frequent )je-
tween June and October, sfnd in a heavy sea to the inner anchorage ; but
in this case shelter may bo found in the river itself within Bolitre Point, and,
if necessary, as high up as Paijo or Conejo Island, which is a mile N.N.E.
of Intrusa, to reach which, you must pass to the North of that island.

The only dangers hero, beside tho bank at tlie entrance, are the mud
banks in the .soutlicrn part of the inner bay ; another bank to the southward

24 COAST OF NEW (IIJAXAIXV.

of Vayo, and ^oiiio rooks scattoml on tlio hank nl.ronat of tlio cliainit'l Ivist
of I'liy.i, on wliicli lio-^ tlio sninll inl.'t I/nmi, oil' tlio mouth of tlio river, or

Arroyo Tinfo.

Sir Edwaril Bolciior idaces liir Observation rock oil tho South wilo ol
Magn.'ti.' Ishinil, or Silvii do Afu.'ra, in hit. S 1 I'.Si N., hmK- »> ' 'I'V :5<) .
V,i\\A. »b lloscncoiit iiiakoM Torilono or lutruHa Island to bo in S' l' o I' N.,
long. 81^ 13' . It is hi-h wntor, ou full and diangf, iit ;V' 10'" or iV' 1 1" ;
rise from U to 12 i'uut.

(lood water may ho jirocurod from a 1)rook whidi falls into tho snmll )>ay
on tho East sido of ( 'apo ( 'ayndo. Tho bay is inhabit. 'd by a ft'W Indians in
ranchos or Jiuts, scattered alon^,' tho boach. Simio eggs, fowls, yogotables.
and tropical fruits may bo obtained. There nro a number of small villaj^vs
on tho uumorons affluontF which fall into the river, but by fur tho lar^-'.^t is
cm tho stream which gives it its name. At ono time it was on an ominenre
only 2 miles from tho 15oca Urava, and was then called Lox Jli'iiinlio<!,—ii
name still applied to tho place, which is If. miles from tho harbour. Tho
passage up to it is most intricate, and can only bo found by imtivo guidance.
This "puoblij nuevo," or now town, has not more than >100 inhuLitants,
among which arc a small number of Europeans, and in 1851 two Eronchmon,
who had erected a saw mill. On all tho islands and all visits to the shore,
bo exceedingly cautious against a most venomous species of serpent, which
is very numerous, and whoso bito is fatal.

Leaving Pueblo Nuevo is as easy as the entrance. It is best to have tho
land-breeze, and start a littlo before the ond of tho flood-tide. Having got
l)eyond Cape Cayado, pass on to the southward of Silva do Tierra, and then
take any route at pleasure. It is not advisable to pass inside Silva de
Tierra, ou account of a long spit of sam' and rocks which extends from its
North side.

From tho northern entrance before described, on the north-western side
of which is tho low island Ksjxirta/, tho coast trends to W.N.W. for 23 mih^s,
for tlu! lirst 18 of which it is composed of narrow sandy beach, behind which
is a lino of forest, intersected hero and there by tho mouth of a river, which
are recognisable afar oif by the whitened and bare trunks of tho mangroves.
About a dozen miles inland is a range of hills, the last steps of the racific
Cordillera, between which and tho sea is a wooded plain. Heyond tho above
limits the lulls approach the sea coast, which is otherwise quite safe to ap-
proach by tho lead at u distance of 2 or 3 miles. Tho coast then turns ab-
ruptly to S.S.W. for 4 miles, forming a peninsula, off tho S.E. point of
which are tho Jienado Inks, which consist of ono larger island near tho point,
and three smaller on one bank farther to tho eastward. I'oint OJu of Do
Rosencoat (the iV Jnco Point of Captain Wood) 3 miles West of tho
eastern Benado Islands, is the south-western extremity of a peninsula whi( h
ftmns tho eastern limit of Chiriqui Bay.]

THE SKCAS ISLANDS.

lio clmtmol KiiHt
nl' tlio rivov, or

i> South Hiilo i>l'
oti^(. Kl ■ JiV ;i(t .

. ill H' r '»r N.,

;'• 10'" or .'J'' H'";

to tho small I'.'iy
a few Iiitliuus in
iwIm, vpgotalilt's,
)i' Hiuall villiij^t's
ill- tho lar^i'st is
I on an ouiiucncc
fMH lli-uii'dio-i, — a
) harbour. Tho
iiativo [julilaiu'c.
-100 inluiLituutH,
two Fronchmon,
3it8 to tho shore,
f serpent, which

bust to have tho
le. Having got
riorra, nnd then
inside Silva de
extends from its

)rth-wostern side
.W. for 23 mih^a,
ch, behind which
of a river, whidi
if tho mangroves,
ps of the Pacific
Jcyond tho above
ijuito safe to ap-
t thou turns ab-
ho S.E. point of
d near the point,
J'uint OJu of De
les "West of tlio
I peninsula whi< h

The SECAS ISLANDS lio on the meridian of S2 W. at II miles off tiie
coast. Tho ^roiip consistH of three principal iNlands, with numerous rock**
and islelM, one (if whicth is .'» miles nortliward of tlieir southern odf^e. With
one exception thi- islands are ((uito (^ufe, and tliev will aM'ord Hliolter to a
small V(!ssel, and several of them are accessible, but there is no fresh Mater,
as ihcir mime indicates. A vessel becalmcil or at nightfall miglit seek
shelter safely here when npproaihing David Ibiy in 12 fathoms, sandy bot-
tom. At 2.1 miles N.E. of the largest island is a mcL- dird.i/i at high Mater,
tint which is ([uito uncovered at low Mater. It is ca'.lid /m Jimjii. There is
a wide-spread tradition that at tho period of the S|ianish coiii(uesl, some
Indian refugees buried some treasures on the northernmost of tho largest
island, and this is in some measure borno out by the discovery of several
ancient implements and other objects.

The Chiri(iui coast, as this part is called by Captain de Rosoncont,
is f,onted by a largo group of islan<ls, and M'ith tho numerous streams
to the North of them, forming an intricate archipelago, to tho North of
M'hicli, by a tortuous chaimel, the approaches to the toMMi or city of David
are found. The various i.slands and channels are so united by almost a con-
tinuous shoal, nearly 20 miles in extent from Kast to West, that, as above
said, the only safe access is from tho eastern end of the labyrinth. ■'•" — Captain
Woo.1.

CHIEIQUI or DAVID BAY lies between El Juco I'oint and Pn/iiir/iir

IhIii il, .>] miles asunder East and West. Off Juco or Ojo Point is an isolated

'ick ' noM-n by a clump of trees on its summit, nnd tho point may also bo

known by tMO small islands, Silla or Ihinillada, which from tho South have

tho appearance of a saddle, as the name indicates.

Tho rinda Rod; (tho WidoM') lies 3 J miles to the southward of El Juco,
and is a largo flat rock, with a reef extending half a milo to tho E.8.E. It
is quite steep-to on all sides, having from 8 to 13 fathoms all around it, and
may be seen at a distance by day, as tho sea breaks heavily upon it. At Iom*
Mater four pinnacles aro uncovered, one only being visiblo at high water.

A sunken rod; is said by the natives to lio rather to tho West of tho line
joining tho West end of Yiuda Kock and the Secas, about midway betMeen,

* Tlip charts iiml divoctior.s i'or this part iifTord an example of what sliould be avoiiirJ.
I'lii' island was well and cari'fiiUy mu'voyed by Commander Wood in ISIS, hut this lint-
chart witli all its details was not puhlislail till th'iihvn ijiiirs later. In tho nicau lime tho
l'"irnch ollicers in tho Obtigmlo, commanded by Capt. Kuiixo d(! Itusoncoal, also surveyed it,
in KS.Jl. Tho French survey has not the slightest allusion to its predecessor, and these two
(halts differ entirely in their nomenclature, &c., so that Capt. de Uosencoal's directions are
almost Hnintellinilde when used with Capt. Wood's chart, which is (luitc .suiliciiint ol' itself
as a i,niidf in this most unfrctpiented rejfion. Wo have followed, in some deforce, the French
vlirections, givini^- ('apt. Wood's names.

20 COABT OF NEW GEANADA.

■wliicli would place it about ;:• miles S.E. from tlio Viuda, It has been Txn-
succeasfuUy souglit for, but it vas said to show but vei-y rarely.

In coming from the East, do not jmss to the northward of the Ensillaila
or 'Monitas Islands, on account of the strong currents. Leavo them on tlio
starboard ! ..ml, ranging doao to them if desired. Coming hero from the
Rouiliward, take care to avoid the Viuda. a ad when abroast of it to the West,
steer for the Sun Josa Mawls, a cluster of four wooded iahits united by a roof.
Tlicso arc also safe, except a spit which run.s off tlieir East point. Guarding
against this, nlso keep a good lookout for another insidious danger, the
Jtwii Bod. This rock is of small extent, lying in tiio middle of the bay, and
uncovers at half tide, and does not show at nil at high water and in fine
wcatlier ; neither does the load give any sign of its proximity, for tiio usual
deptli of 7 and 8 fathoms is foimd close up to it. It lies l] mile N. oO E.
fronr the summit of Han Jose, and 3] miles N. G4- W. from the :Monilaa or
Ensillada. There is good anchorage to the N.E. of this in the fine season,
but during the period when the S.W. winds prevail, it will be better to get
under the lee of the San Josi' Islands,

At the head of the bay is a lino of islands rimning generally E.S.E. and
W.N. W. According to Capt. do Eosoncoat their names are, going from East
to West, Monita (this name is given by Captain Wood to the outermost
cluster) Mono., C'«r«y (Carre of Wood), Bajo llajailo, Saiiw, and Vndaua; to
the North of the last is the East end of the larger island, Bruva, extending 7
miles to the M'cstward, and along the northern face of which Is the channel
leading to David. The bay within this line of isla7ids is inaccessible to
ships. But it is probable that there is shelter between the second and third
islands West of EI Juco Point, which is called the I'hwt:, Grande. At the
head of this bay is another called the Ensenada dc CkuchkaH or Chxcheijal , on
the plains around which are numerous herds of cattle, Avhich can bo pur-
chased direct from the owners.

The Boca Chica, or entrance to the river, lies between Ventana and Saino.
It may be known by some rocks on the extremity of the former, being
pierced through by the sea at its base, so as to have the appearance of a
window or ventana. Tlie passage is very narrow, and in taking it keep
close to Saino, and guard against tlie Lavandcra Bock, which is quite covered
at high water, lying l.V cable off Ventana. Tiie water is very shallow within
t'lo point, and is <iuito unadapted for seagoing vessels, and cannot bo taken
without a pilot. Within, the anchorage is called El Bozo (the well), and
from this can be seen the outer houses of the village of Boca Chica (or the
Puerto dc San Lorenzo of Capts. Kellett and Wood. It coyisists of about a
ycore of ranches or huts, surrounded by oranges and bananas. Fresh pro-
visions, as butcher's meat, poultrj, fruits, &c., can be bought hero cheaply.

The watering-place is on the North shore of El Fozo, but it is not conve-
nient, though the water is good. Capt, do Kosencoat made the sandy J Jay on

h ^i r «vg f> M^ '

THE PARTDAS ISLANDS.

da. It, has been nn-
1 rarely.

-ard of the Ensillada
Ijeuvo them on tlio
oming licvo fi'uni tlie
oast of it to tl 10 West,
alots united by a roof.
iJast point. Gnardinp;
insidious danger, the
niddlo of the bay, and
gli water and in fine
iximity, for tlio usual
lios 1,1 mile N. oCr E.
'. from the Monilna or
Kis in the fine senson,
it T;vill be better to get

generally E.S.E. and
3S are, going froio East
I'^ood to the outermost
ioirn, and Vi'nlanu ; to
ul, Bruvn, extending 7
f Avhich Is the channel
ajids is inaccessible to
n the second and third
'laza Grande. At \\\v^
chkan or Chuchegal , on
le, Avhich can bo pur-

on Ventana and Saino.

of the former, being
e the appearance of a
and in taking it Iceep

■which is quite covered
r is very shallow within
s, and cannot bo taken
El J'ozo (the well), and
3 of Boca Chica (or the

It consists of about a
. bananas. Fresh pro-
) bought here cheaply.
3Z0, but it is not conve-
made the sandy J Jay on

the South side of SaVno in lat. 8^ 11' 52' N., long. 82° 12' 8' W. Greenwich.
Tho tides were regular, the greatest rise was 1 1 feet, the least 6 feet ; high
water at 3'' 15'".

David is tho chief town of the province of Ohiriqui, and lies about 25
miles from tho sea by tho eastern channel, or 10 miles by tho western one,
and to go thither in a boat a pilot is indispensable on account of the in-
tricacy of tbo channels. It stands in a fine plain, and is siinvninded by
<niltivated lands, which extend as far as the extinct volcano of Chiriqui.
Tho population is 5,000, and it has a regular trade with Panama, sending
thither by some small vessels pigs, poultry, eggs, vegetables. Sec. The cattle
are generally driven to the market.

Tho situation of David has some importance from tho fact that it staiids
on the n«rro\\o.st portion of the American isthmus, and on ascending tho
Chiriqui volcano both oceans can be seen at once. An ordinary cart road
lias been proposed as the modest sixbstitute for a railway, which should lead
from Amiral's Bay on the Antlantie, a good harbour, to that just described.
Another feature of importance is the existence of a coal-field, whicli extends
nearly across. A portion taken from Muertos Island, near the entrance of
t)io river, was analysed by Professor Rogers, which gavt; good results.

Palenqvte Island lies off the South side of Isla Brava, on the West side
of David Bay. The fchoal water which limits the >)ay trends to the N.N.E.
and to AV'.S.W. from this island. Off its S.E. point is Deer Mam(, the S.W.
point M-as made by Captain Wood to lie in lat. 8 10' 13' N., long. 82-
l.r 40'W.

The PARIDAS ISLANDS are a group at the western extremity of those
described as lying parallel to tho coast and the chain of mountains which
runs through the isthmus. They consist of one large island, Parida, about
11 miles ciroumforcnco at tho West end ; another, much smaller, Bolmio or
Volano, near the eastern part of the cluster, and a crowd of islets and rocks
between the two. They are uninhabited, except during the season of the
pearl fishery, when a few people come to them.

J'arida is well wooded but not high, and is the only one of the group that
iitt'ords water. According to Captain de Eosencoat, the only anchorage is in
tlie X.E. of the largest island, and is sheltered by that point, and by another
small long island {Ma Garni), which shehers the road from the South, and
where there is a good sandy beach fo/ landing, the depth 7 fathoms mud.
To rea<'h this ancliorage from the eastward, and being South of the Benado
Islands, steer westward for the North point of Parida, taking care not t.»
go into leas than 5 fatlioms on the port hand.

The islands whicli run to the eastward for 4 miles from the South end of
Parida terminate in Bolano (or Volafio) and Baraco to the S.E. of it ; these
are the largest, the others are imimportant. At three-quai'ters of a mile
South of Baraco arc some rocks, and there is also another at 1.^ mile E.N.E.

COAST OF NEW GRANADA.

of it. ISfidway botwoon IJolaHo .-iml San Jost- Island nro a clustor calliMl
I.eiiiirtes hlamh in Captain "Wood's cliart.

C/iimniu JJiii/ is at tlio 8.W. ond of Purida, and lias a lino of islands
strotchinf? to tho N.W. from its southern iioint, tlm ontorniust of which is
called Sta. Cruz. Tho watering-placo in Chimmo I$ay is in its N.E. point.
There is a channel around tho North end of Parida, but olf tho North ond
of the island it is very narrow, though deep.

From 8a>i((t Cruz Point, tho ,S.W. end of I'arida, to tho Jioat S:iii JWro,
wliich is a more direct opening to tho river loading to David, is 11 miles, the
interval being occupied by ])anks over wliitli the sea break's heavily and the
water vory shoal. On the I]ast side of tho Boca San Pedro is tho Mi kierilld,
separated from Isla Brava before mentioned, by the P.oca Prava. On Sevilla
abundance of game may be procured, deer, goats, iVrc. Although tho natives
say that the Boca San Pedro is in-acticablo for boats, yet the French sur-
veyors arrived at an oiiposite conclusion, and that tho Boca Chica was the
onlj' ono advisable.

The Coast between Chiriqui and Burica Point forms an extensive bay ?A
miles wide. The nortli-castern part of tho bay is formed by a series of
islands formed like those of Chiriqui just described. Tho island of San I'cdru
is the westernmost of those which belong to the Piver of David and the coast
f ontinuos a regular curve, first to tho northward of West and then to the
southward, getting higher to tho southward till it terminates in Point
Burica.

There is no port or place of resort, although native report points out two
or three spots of local importance ; of these, OminaruHo, at the entrance of u
river a])0ut 15 miles North of tho point, is one ; another is Chann Azul, also
at the mouth of a river some miles to tho South of it. These place.s, and tho
coast generally, aro quite safe as open anchorages.

The Ladrones (or Zedzones of Colnott) aro two islets or roclcs, moderately
high and l)arren, lying 1.') miles S.S.W. from tho S.AV. point of Parida.
They are very steep-to, and 70 fathoms are found close to their southern
edge. They are quite safe in all directions, except to tho North, where
some rocks lio a mile off.

At 4 miles North of tho Ladrones i.s a dangerous reef, Aviiich does not even
show at low water, when there is (iA feet water ovit it. It lies with tho
West side of Parida bearing N. ^ E., and the East side of the Ladrones
bearing South.

Montuosa is a lofty wooded island, completely isolated, 20 miles S.S.E. of
the Ladrones and 22 miles West of Coiba. It is safe, except some rocks to
the East of it, and is a good mark for approaching the coast.

Colnett says; — "It rises to a considerable height, and is 5 or miles in
circumference, its summit covered with trees; tho greater part aro those
which btHir the cocoa-nut, which gives it a very pleasant appearance ; but

a cliistor (allod

lino of islands
iiost of wliicli is
1 its N.E. point,
f tho North 011(1

Boca Shu Pedro,
is 11 luilos, the
heavily and the
i tho hla Scvilla,
ava. On Sevilhi
ough tho natives
tho French siir-
i Chita was the

xtcnsivo bay HI
[ by a spvies of
md of San Pedro
•id and tlieooast
and tlion to the
[nates in Point

points out two

lie ontranoo of u
'hareo Azul, also
I places, and tho

clcs, modoratel}'
loint of Pavida.
I tlipir Rontliern
B North, wlierti

•h does not oven
It lies with tho
if the Ladrones

; miles .«.S,E. of
t some rouks to

5 01' miles in

part are those

ppearan(;e ; but

C().STA KICA.

islets and breiilvcrs oxti iid otl'its lOast and West ends, to tiio distanco of ;5 or
■1 miles. Tlio liottom is rocky on tho ^outh side, as is tiio .shoro near tho
sea. There is a beach of sand behind some littlo creeks that run in between
the rocks, Avhich makes a safo landing for boats. Here wo Mont on kIkjic,
and got a quantity of cocoa-nuts, with a few birds. Tho Spaniards or
Indians liad lately been tliere to fish on tho reef for pearls, and had loft
groat heaps of oyster-shells. Thero wero a great plenty of parrots, doves,
and iguanas ; and it is probable that other refreshments might bo obtained,
of which we arc ignorant. At all events, it may be useful to whalers or
cruisers, by olforing a placo where the sick may bo landed and cocoa-nuts
procured, Avhoso milk will supply tiio want of water."

POINT BURICA or Burrica is the western limit of tho state of Now
(rranada. It makes afar off like an island with thrco summits equally
elevated and distant from each other ; on noaring tho capo another low
point is made out which seems at first like an island, btit is afterwards seen
to form part of tho point. To tho soutliward of the point lireakcrs extend
for a mile, and terminates in this direction by a large, high and isolated
rock, which forma an outer beacon. The capo may bo seen in clear weather
o.) miles off, and is thus an cxeellont landfall for ships coming either from
I'dstward or A\estward.

Tho tcrriiorij of Ihirica, 'according to Mr. J. II. Smith (18.V1), does not
belong to tho general government of Now Granada, but is exempt from .some
of the imposts. It extends from tho Guanava)i'^ coa-if, on the East side of the
Buriea peninsula, to tho Eio Claro, which falls into the Golfo Uulco. Tho
toast between is an extensive region of cocoa-nut trees, 21 to 25 miles in
lengtii. But this thinly populated and uncivilized region has but littlo claim
to exact political or social divisions, and its nomenclature and inland features
are alike vaguely known. Tho exclusive claim of Now Granada to tho
transit route across tho isthmus has led to moro attention boing paid to its
boundaries than they otherwise deserve.

2. COSTA EICA.

Tho state of Costa Rica is one of tho smallest in area and population of
the Central American Ecpublics. It extends from Point Buriea to a point
somewhere about Salinas Bay and the Lake of Nicaragua, but in this
northern part a territory is claimed which is disputed by Nicaragua. It
belonged to the latter state when the confederation was formed in 1820, and
was then conceded to Costa Eica to give it weight in the federal congress.
But Avhen the confederation was dissolved, it is contended that it should
have reverted to the original state. This district of Guanaeaste, now called
Liberia, includes several of tho pi'oposed termini of tho intcv-oceanic canals

-X!5«Pr*«»S=5a*a««*-5«'?«r5?^i"a^.''Jl^'^"'S^

THE COAST OF COSTA EKJA.

and railways, and this }^ivcs it. an importance it does not othcrwisn poKsoss.
lu 18.')(; it was usually considered that Costa Rica terminated on the I'acilie
coast, on the North side of Salmas Bay.

The soil of Ccsta Eica is exceedingly productive. On the " ticrras culi-
entes," or torrid lands, which run back from the Pacific up to an elevation
of .'.i, (too feet, almost all tlio tropical productions aliound. Ahove th?H0 are
the " lierras tomjdadas," which are terraces making out from the main
Cordilleras (following very nearly the longitudinal axis of the stato in a
north-west and south-east direction), and are from ;5,000 to r),000 feet above
the level of the sea, producing sugar-cane, potatoes, corn, coffee, oranges,
&c., in great perfection.

Still above the terras templadas are the tierras frias, or cool lands, which
are from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above the ocean level, among which several
volcanoes shoot up, varying from 8,000 to 1 1,000 feet in height. The forests
which extend over a large portion of the republic, abound in timber suitable
for ship-building; also mahogany, brazil, and various other valuable dyc-

A\'00(ls.

The cultivated portion of Costa Eica lies principally within the valley of
the Eio Grande, which Hom's down tho western slope of the main mountain
range into tho (iulf of Nicoya. Fully .seven-eighths of all the inhabitants
arc hero concentrated, in a district not exceeding fifty miles in length by au
average of twenty in breadth.

The Coast from Point Enrica trends generally to tho north-west, and is as
before stated low, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. There are no places of
intt'rci>t, and only four Indian villages on the space of 25 miles between that
point and Point Platanal, near the entrance of the (folfo ])ulce. At -"i or G
miles from the South point is a projection called Punta Gorda. The inti;r-
mediate coast has not been surveyed, but is believed to bo safe. A running
survey of tho coast and harbours beyond Point Platanal, as Ikr as Istapa,
was nuide by Capt. T. do Lapelin, in tho French corvette La JtrillcMc, m
18.!J2, and from his pan>_ ]>let the following directions are chielly taken.

The GULF of DULCE lies JO miles to tlu^ N. W. of Pt. Burica. But very
little was known of it till in lS4',.t a concession was made to a French com-
pany, and in 1850 a plan of it was madti by M. Louis Cheron, and again in
in 1852, when its shores and capabilities were examined by the officers under
Capt. de Lapelin. From this it would appear to be one of tho best points
of the old Spanish territory for European colonization, considering its fer-
tility, healthiness, and safety of its navigation. Tho gulf is recognisable at
a great distance. Its oiifer points are w(dl marked, and are 18 miles apart,
East and West.

Point Matapalo, on tJie West, is the South extremity of tlio peninsula and
of the Cerro de Sal si Pucdes. It is high, steep, and covered with Iveea,

^i'ii

^. ■iie'..a*fc> .1

PUNTA ARKNITAS.

icrwjso possess.
1 on fho I'iu ific

) " ticrras cali-
to an olovation
.liovo tIr:so aro
from tlio main
tlio stato in a
,000 foet ubovo
coll'ec, oranges,

ol lands, wliicli
; wliich sovoral
lit. Tlio forests
timber suitable
r valuable dye-
in tho vallo}' of
main mountain
tlio inhabituntH
in length by an

•west, and is as
lire no places of
,'s between tliat
ee. At •") or
la. Tho intnr-
E'c. A running
.8 far as Istapa,
La l>rill<(n(c, m
Jly tiiken.
I'it'a. IJut very
a French com-
1, and again in
le officers under
the best points
idering its fer-
recognisable at
18 miles apart,

3 peninsula and
I'cd with treob,

with some reddish coloured land-slips. At a mile E. by t^. of it is an isolated
rock 10 or I'J feet high, easily seen in all directions.

Ft. Platanal, tlio eastern point, is tho Soutli end of a promontory formed
by the chain of mountains whicli separates tho los\- lands of 15urica from tho
plain of the Rio C<ito. This ])romontory is terminated to tho Nortli by a
round-topped peak, covered with trees, rather higher (2,;>2!) feet) than those
near it. This hill will indicate the riuita del Jlotiai. All tho shores of the
entrance aro clear and free from danger; but in coming hitlicr it is well to
make Cape ^latapalo, as th(> only habitations aro on the West side, at tho
I'unta Arenitas, and on this side also aro convenient anchorages in case of
being Ix'calmed during tho ebb, as throughout the gulf, except in tho liio
Coto ]5ay, th(> depths aro 20 and uO fathoms at '1 to 1 cables from the shore,
and then deepening to .OO and 100 fathoms.

The outer portion of the gulf runs in a N. and S. direction 22 miles, with
a breadth of IG miles ; beyond this it runs to N.W. for 25 miles to the foot
of tho Cordillera, where it is 10 miles wide. From Point Matapalo to tlio
Kio l{inc(m at its N.W. end, an extensive plain extends to the sloping foot
of tho Corro di' Sal si Puedes. The shore is all low and wooded. To tho
North of Pt. Matapalo is I'f. iJd Sombrero, and ;) miles further that of Tlnrilu.
OU'thei^o two points are some rocks above water, those olf iSombrero e.xtend-
iug half a mile, and oif Tigrito three-fourths of a mile. These are tho only
(laagers in approaching Punta Arenita.s.

PUNTA ARENITAS* is 9 miles beyond 1 :.\ del Tigrito. It appears to
bo low and entirely ( ovevcd with wood. It is not until close to that the
houses covered with palmotto trees and the liagstaif on the tare .sandy tongue
is ; eon. At a cable's length East of the point is a c(n'al liank, whiili par-
tially dries at low water. Its greatest breadth East and AVost is two cables,
and it is twice that lengtii North and Houth. Its edges aro very steep-to,
and small vessels can pas8 botwecn it and tho point. You may anchor to
tho N.W. or to the S.E. of tho village. The latter is tho best for vessels
making but a short stay, and they will hero get the sea-breezes and avoid
tho excessive heat occasioned by tho shelter of tho point. To tako this aii-
'horage, bring the llag.staff or tho last cluster of houses to lioar W. by N.,
and tlio Pt. del Tigrito to South, at less than a mile from the shoro in 10 to
1 1 fathoms, bottom green mud. To reach tho anchorage North of tho vil-
lage, having passed tho coral bank, bear to tho West, steering for an ostero
(or creek), distinguishable from some largo trees with white trunks, with
foliage only on the tops. As soon as the flagstaff or the outer houses bear
E. of iS.E, drop anchor in about I(i~i fathoms, bottom of green mud. This

* riinlii Ari'uitaH i.s tiilled l'uii(;i .Vriiiiis (Siiiidy point) oti mo.st, chails, but tliu distinc-
tion is hero iiiudo thut it may not be confused with the more important rmita Arenas, tlu:
chief port of tho republic, in tho CJiilf of Nieovii.

.32

TJIE COAST OP COSTA KICA.

inner juithorago is very good, and any repairs aiay bo dono in groat security,
but if it is nocossary to hcavo down to the kcol it is bettor to go to El Goiato.
To communieuto with the village, you can land to tlio North of the peninsula
at fho entrance of a creek ; this point is so stoep-to that you can lay along-
side as at a quay.

Fresh provisions, in small quantities, may bo got at Tunta Arenitas.
Firewood is also cheap ; bullocks aro to bo got at the hacienda del Tigre.
The neighbouring forests aro rich in spars and timber, but you must cut it
yourself. Water is to bo got at tho Eiver del Tigre, o miles to the north-
ward between half-flood and half-ebb. The French company before alluded
to intended to establish themselves on the banks of the River delTigre. A
largo house built by them distinguishes the Point del Tirgre.

It is higii water, full and change, at Punta Arcnitas at ;3'' lo'". Tho
grc.itost rise is 10 feet 3 inches ; mean ri.^e o\ feet. Tho tides aro regular
tliroughout tho gulf.

Tao NouTH-EAsT siioHE of the gulf is formed by tho baso of the cordillcra,
whicu entends from the Eio Eincon to tho Golfito. Its rugged slopes aro
covered with an impenetrable forest, and Icavo but a very narrow beach
hero and there. At !) miles N.E. by E. from tho Eivor Eincon aro tho Islotes,
a small group composed of rocks and coral banks, on which tliey lisli for
pearls and mother-o'-pearl. Tho Cordillera then runs for 21 miles E.S.E.,
terminating at the Ooltito. At •Ji miles from las Islotes is tho moth of tho
Eio do las Esquinas, which traverses a largo and very marshy valley near
the sea. At 10 miles E. 18-^ S. from Pta. do las Esquinas there aro some
rocks indicating Cape San Jose ; around those rocks they fish for mother-o'-
pearl.

The Golfito entrance is 800 yards wide, and tho passage in mid-channel
between tho high and well-marked point to tho North, and long narrow
Bandy tongue to the S.W. has a depth of 5J to GJ fathoms. This sandy
neck divides the Golfito into two parts, in either of which you may anchor,
but if in the eastern part it is not advisable to bring tho houses on the point
to North of W.N.AV. The Golfito is a landlocked basin, where you may
heave down and careen, but unfortunately in all seasons it rains nearly every
day, and storms are frequent. The watering-place is in tho North part of
this small gulf, but the casks must be filled at low water, and floated off at
high water.

The Eio Goto, the largest stream which enters the Gulf of Dulce, is 7i
miles southward of the Golfito. It is not navigable. From its mouth a
bank extends to the northwards, which joins tho tongue which divides the
Golfito. Tho coast is low, sandy, with a violent surf, and covered with
cocoa-nut trees. To the southward of the river, the coast, though low, is
clean as far as the Pta. del Banco, the S.E. point of the Gulf of Dulce.

The Gulf of Dulce, during the tine season, is under the influence of the

CANO I81.ANI>.

.'];;

in groat security,
J go to El Goltitd.
I of tlio peninsula
ou can lay aloiig-

Punta Arenitas.
jiondd del Tigre.
; yo;i must cut it
les to tlio nortli-
ly before alludeil
rerdelTigrr. A
e.

at 3" 16'" . The
tides arc regular

of the Cordillera,
:igged slopes aro
ry narrow beach
)n aro the Islotos,
icli llicy lish for
21 miles E.S.E.,
I the moth of the
rshy valley near
3 there are some
sh for mother-o'-

3 in mid-channel
md long narrow
MS. This sandy
you may anchor,
uses on the point
where you may
ains nearly every
e North part of
ind floated off at

of Dulce, is 7i
om its mouth a
hich divides the
tid covered with
, though low, is
f of Dulce.

influence of the

hinil and sea breezes (tho vira/on and torral), the former blowing from .S.M.
to S.W. between 11 a.m. and nimset, when it is replaced by the terral blow-
ing from N. to AV. Notwithstanding its hot and humid dinuito, the gulf is
considered healthy by the natives, but this can afford but little evidence of
its effects upon European colonists.

The Coast beyond Punta Jlatapalo e.vtends for 20 miles to the "W.N.W.
to the high and abrupt I'tn. Sal si Fucdes. It is a narrow and sandy beach,
forming a largo cocoa-nut grove, behind which rises the Cerro. It is very
steep-to, for at Icxa tlian half a mile off shore, in the shoalest part, there is
more than 10 f'atlionis, a strong surf usually beating on this shore.*

At the point Sal si Puedes the Cerro approaches the beach, and at less
than a milt off the point is a roimd bare rock, called the Choncha Pelona,
around wtiich the water is very deep, but you cannot pass inside it.

From Pta. Sal si Puedes to Pta. Llorona the distance is 11 miles in a
N. 47° W. diroctiou. Between these points is the Cunvcado, a large rock 35
foot high, at the outer end of a reaf composed of rocks above water. The
irregularity of the depth and the colour of the water, and the breakers off
slioro between the two points, seem to indicate danger near tlie land.

Fta. Llorona is high, steep, wooded, and formed of cliffs partially covered
with a rich vegetation, and a cascade falls over one of its perpendicular pre-
cipices. Several islets lie within a few cables lengths of the point. Capo
San Pedro is 3 miles N. by E. from Pta. Llorona ; near it is a rocky islet
with a few shrubs on it, and joined to the land by a chain of rocks, which
also project a cable's length seaward from it. This group shelters a part of
the sandy beach called the Port de San J'edro, distinguished by a rock sur-
mounted by a single tree. On this beach also in a small indentation called
the Puertecilo de S. J'edro, are some ranches of Indians who come hither to
find the purple dye. Cape Sail Jose is a spur of the chain of hills which
overhangs the coast ; it may be known by a rustrado or a large green patch,
bare of trees.

CANO ISLAND is 10 miles to the West of Cape S. Pedro. It is mode-
rately high and is level. At its N.E. point are a few breakers, and off its
West point some sunken rocks extend for half a mile. With this exception,
it may be approached on all sides, though it is not advisable to do so from
the eastward, as the current drifts towards these last-named rocks. On the
N.W. side is a spring and some banana trees, on a sandy beach, where the
landing is easy, and where the bongos come to collect the caoutchouc, which
is abuudaQt, on this island.

* The name Sal si Tucdes (got owt if you can), applied to this beach, is said to bo derived
from tho fact that the bongos which oonio hero to load with cocoa-nuts, though ulih; to
land easily at times, havi; great difficulty and detention in embarking tlirough tho foimida«
blc surf.

North Pacific.

THE COAST OF COSTA EICA.

S :

' >

The Rio Ajuja (kbouches in the anglo where the liigh hind of Cnpo Snu
Pedro joins tho beach naming fo tlio North. It is the Lost slicltor that tlu^
bongos find between the Gulf of Duhto and tliat of Nicoya, nnd is the only
place -whevi' watering is easy. To tho northward of this the coast is high
nnd wooded ; its narrow beach is interrupted by tho mouths of tho Granndo
and the Idraque, and beyond these is tho Boca Sierpe. To the North of
these again is Fla. Violin, oil' which is a small wooded islet of the same
name. At a mile North of this are the Hacnte Idets. The coast here forms tho
narrowest part of tho isthmus, which separates the ocean from the head of
tho Gulf of Dulce.

From hence tho coast runs to the North for 22 miles, and is uniformly low
and wooded. Inland is an extensive marshy plain, on which it is said is a
largo hike, nnd is watered by tho Eio Burruca. Through this level const
are four hoc as or mouths to tho river nnd the lake, and it is said by tho
natives that these communicate with each other, so that a bongo entering at
Sierpe can come out at any of thom, or at Puntn Mala do los Indios. At tho
North end of the plain tho coast is quite clear and the depths diminish
gradually.

At Pmia 21<i1a is a perpendicular cliff, and tho high coast here turns to
tho westward nnd N.W. This coast is formed by n spur from the cordillera,
and extends for 11 miles to Point Dominical. At Point Uinta, midway, a reef
and some rocks shelter an anchorage, which is said to be deep enough for
any vessel, and that water may be procured easily at tho EIo TJbita here.
It is constantly frequented hy tho Indians.

At 3i miles from Ubita is a large reddish coloured rock called La Ballena,
and at a mile East from this are three small and pointed rocks called La
Ballenita. Point Naranjo is 9 miles from Point Dominical ; the coast be-
tween is a sandy beach, traversed by some inaccessible rivers and is quite
clear.

At 5 miles N.W. from this point is that of Lan Qiiepos, covered with trees.
Between these points are a number of islets and rocks, forming two distinct
groups, which are connected with tho shore. The southernmost group are
called the Naranjos, the northern the Quepos. The largest of the latter group
is called Manuel Antonio, and shows a remarkable gap. It shelters a small
sandy bay, fit for the bongos which come fishing for turtle.

Point Mala is 22 miles "West of the Quepos, the coast between being a
sandy beach, beaten by a continual surf, without landing place. Near Pta.
Mala there is a lino of cocoa-nut trees a mile in length. The point is very
low, and covered with trees and mangroves. To the South of it extends a
reef of rocks and islets a mile and a half in extent. Tho depth is very irre-
gular on its edges, and the current drifts past it to the westward, frequently
at 2 miles, and never less than 1 mile an hour.

Point Gua;pilon is 6 miles from Pta. Mala ; the coast between is sandy and

Fi.

land of Cnpo Snii
it slioltor that tlic
n, and is the only
I the const is hij^li
lis of tho Gvnnado

To the North of
islet of tho same
last here forms tho

from the head of

d is uniformly low
hich it is said is a
h this lovol coast
d it is said by tho
Longo entering at
OS Indios. At tho

depths diminish

)ast hero turns to
rom tho cordillera,
'ta, midway, a reef

1 deep enough for
! Eio Ubita hero.

called La Ballena,
d rocks called La
cal ; the coast be-
rivers and is quite

iovored with trees,
rming two distinct
srnmost group are
of the latter group
'.i shelters a small

i between being a
place. Near Pta.
The point is very
ith of it extends a
depth is very irre-
stward, frequently

weon is sandy and

GULF OP NICOYA-CArE BLANCO.

.5">

low, but is lined with breakers to 3 or 4 cables' lengths off abreast the small
rivers Ui^tihrc and Ttmihre. Off Point Guapilon aro two rocks awash, ou
which tho sea breaks ; they are half a mile ofif tho point, and have a depth
of 9 and 10 fathoms between them and the point. At 4 miles W.N.W. is
Ifemidura Ne, which shelti^rs the harbour of that name.

Port Herradura is at the y.E. entrance to the Gulf of Nicoya. It is a
horse-shoe bay, as its name indicates, facing the West, and is li mile wide
between the "West point of Cano Island on its South side, and Herradura
Point to tho North. CaHo Island is covered with trees, and has a reef all
around it, which connects it with the shore. Tho northern point of the bay
is also bold and rocky, and a reef skirts it on all sides for some distance, but
tlio edge of this reef is steep-to, as is the case all round tho bay, and there-
fore tho shores should bo carefully approached.

A sunhn ruck, nearly awash, has been found in the middle of the bay since
the survey. It lies with a house on tho beach bearing N.E. i' N. three-
quarters of a mile, and tho pinnacle of Cafio S.W. by S. nine-tenths of a mile.
At tho head of the buy is a watering-place, where excellent water may be
obtained. Sir Edward Belcher says that twenty casks at a time may be
obtained by rolling them into a small lake ou ihe leach. This lake was made
to bo in hit. 9" 38' 30' N., long. 84° 30' 7" W. The anchorage is off this
wutoring-place in b to 8 fathoms, but vessels may rido close to the shore by
veering tho whole cable with a warp to the beach.

The GULF of NICOYA was surveyed by Sir Edw. Belcher in the Jilomm
iaJan., 1839. His fine chart has long been published. It was also exa-
mined by Captain do Lapelin in La Brillantc, and wo derive much of what
follows from that officer's remarks.

CAFE BLANCO is the south-westemmoBt point of the bay, and is thus
described by Dampier :— " Cape Blanco, is so called from two white rocks
lying off it. When we aro off at sea right against the cape, they appear as
part of tho cape ; but being near the shore, either to the eastward or west-
ward of tho cape, they appear like two ships under sail at firsi view, but
coming nearer, they are like two high towers, they being small, high, steep
on all sides ; and they are about half a mile from the cape. This cape is
about the height of Beachy Head in England, on the coast of Sussex. It is
a full point, with steep rocks to the sea. The top of it is flat- and evon for
about a mile ; then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent.
It appears very pleasant, being covered with great lofty trees.'*

* To tho westward of Capo lilanco a bank is marked on the charts ; Captain do Lapelin
doubts its existence, but was unable to verify it. The coast Ihenco trends to N.W. It is
stoop and densely wooded : the higher hills rarely exceed Cape Blanco in e^.-vation. Tho
beach is of sand, separated by rocks into an infinity of bays, which will offer easy landing-
places,

2i)

V ' ^ II PU W - t V t "*'-^*^ ' ''^^ '' '' ^ "^

THE COAST OF COSTA VACA.

I
I

Tlio ontrauco (i) till Oulful' Nicoya is distinctly mariccd by Capo Bliiuco
on tho "VVcst, and Point Ucrrudura on tho East, forming an opening .'iO miles
wide. Capo Blanco is tho point that has been generally nuubi l>y keeping a
little to the Kaat of its nioridiun ; but there in probably soino odvantago
guincd liy making tho eastern sido as tho currents shift to westward, and tho
distance would bo rather shorter.

Capo Blanco may bo seen at 20 miles distance when to tho N.N.W., ap-
ponring then liko an island, tho top of which is flat, and having near its
centre n slight indentation. Several white patolics also serve to distinguish
the capo from the land at tho back of it. Tho largest and lowest white spot
is formed by an islet fjuito white, lying South of tho cape, from which it is
separated by a channel a milo wide ; but it does not appear to bo detached
until you arc within 10 or l.j miles. It is only when Cape Blanco is seen
from tho West, or to tho North of West, that its true termination can be
seen ; being much lower than tho surrounding land, it pi-ojects liko an island
and falls abruptly towards tho sea. At tho same time a small needle-shaped
rock will bo seen a littlo to tho South of tho islet.

Tho I'ta. do la llerradura, which forms tho northern sido of tho harbour
of tho same name, is a large rounded hill on tho high land. A large rocky
.slet, covered with trees of nearly equal height with the point, lies off tho S.
point, leaving a narrow impracticable passage.

As far as the anchorage of Punta Arenas, the Gulf of Nieoya has no
danger that is not visible. All tho points and the shores may be approached
to within two miles. The islands are numerous, and some of them large ;
they are covered with trees, but are uninhabited, and at present possess no
interest whatever. Tho western part of tho gulf is nearly a desert, and tho
ports which as yet have not been frequented, lio on the East side ; these are
those of Horradura, Calderas, and Punta Arenas. The bay of Tarcoles also
affords a good anchorage, where communication is easy with tho shore.

The harbour of Herradura is a good anchorage, is uninhabited, and with-
out any communication with the interior ; it has no other resources than an
excellent and abundant watering place.

C.VLDERA was the port of entry for Costa Eica till 1810, at which time its
imhealthiness caused it to be abandoned for Punta do Arenas, notwithstand-
ing its security, and its proximity to the capital. It is about 12 miles N.E.
of Cape Blanco.*

* Calderas possesses a peculiar interest at tho present moment, as it is said to bo tho ter-
minus of one of tho inter-oceanic communications. According to a report, published in
186G, by Mr. F. Kurtze, C.E., director of the public works of Costa Rica, a waggon road
from se;i to sea was just completed, starting from Port Limon, near Point Blanco, GO miles
South of Greytown, on tho Atlantic sido, crossing tho summit level near Cartago, 5,118 feet
above the sea, passing near Ban Jose the capitftl, terminates ut Calderas. It i.s a macadam-

rUNTA ARKNAS.

id by ( 'apo Bliiuco
111 oponiiig I'JO miles
iiui(l(^ l>y koopiii}^ II
ly some nilvantago
) westward, and tliu

» the N.N.W., ap.
nd liaving near its
lorve to distinguisli
id lowest white spot
pe, from which it is
lOur to bo detached
ipo Blanco is seen
termination can be
ojocts like an island
small neodk'-slmped

ido of tho harbour
nd. A large rocky
point, lies off tho S.

of Nifoya has no
maybe approached
mo of them large ;
; present possess no
ly a desert, and the
Kast side ; these are
l)ay of Tarcoles also
with tho shore,
nhabitod, and with-
r resources than an

f), at which time its
euas, notwithstand-
ibout 12 miles N.E.

PUNTA ARENAS,— In 18 10, Punta Arenas was declared a free port, and
liiis Ix'come tlio most important commerfial place on all th(< cftast of Oontral
.Vmcrica. It is tho only port of tho state of ( 'osta IJicn, which is frefpiented
on tho I'acifio, and through it almost all its exports and imports pass, The
sandy peninsula on which tho village stands shelters nn interior anchorage,
called tho F.nfnro, into which, at high water, vessels drawing IIJ fout can
enter ; to tlie South of it is a spacituis roadstead, with an avornge doplli of
hi fathoms, which, althoii '■ .--ecuro in tlio lino season, rocpiiros some preiau-
tions against tho summer winds.

I'unta Arenas has a i)opulation of about 1,500. Its streets aro straight
and regular, but disagreeable from tho sandy soil. They extend aloiii; the
Estero, by wliich all communications with the outer road take place.

In entering the Gulf of Nicoya tho only precaution necessary is to Img
tlie eastern shore, for tho ebb tide, which runs to S.W. to the South of the
Negritos, is less felt, and*' the depth, though groat, is less than on tho
western side ; so that in case of a calm, or contrary currr>nt, an anchorage is
more readily found ; or you may be drifted out of the gulf, or olso on to tho
Negritos, near to which tho depths aro great. You may readily know them
by a largo black rock in front of them, having the appearance of a sail.
Soon after passing tho line East and West of tho Negritos, you will see be-
tween these islands and that of San Lucas, two remarkable islets.

Tho first of these is called ViiijaveH (the Jrcn of Sir Edward Belchor), is like
a L-Ircus open to the East formed by perpondiiular rocks, crowned Avith trees,
and surrounded by a beach of pebbles covered at high water. Tho socoikI
is a conical, lofty, and wooded rock, sufficiently designated by its name Pu.i
r/<! ./;:««/>• (Sugar-loaf). Having made these islets, you will next discover
the lighthouse rising from tho trees. It is on a yellow tower of several
stages, elevated G6 feet above tho sea, and showing a fixed light, visible 10
miles off. At tho same time you will see, but much more to the left, a largo
building, which serves as a custom-house. This is the most westerly build-
ing, and nearest to the Tuntilla do Tunta Arenas. It is painted white, and
covered with tiles, and near a cluster of cocoa-nut trees, the only ones on
the peninsula.

The custom-house or the lighthouse being well made out before being
East and West with tho Pan do Azucar, steer so as to bring tho first not
more North than N.N.W., or tho second to the North of North by West, so

it is said to bo tho ter-
a report, published in
I Rica, a -waggon road
Point Blanco, 60 miles
lear Cartago, 5,118 foot
3rus. It i.s a macadam-

ised road, 60 foot wide, with cut-stone liridges, and witli ample width for constructing a
railroad over much of its course.

Two caimh have also been proposed to terminate in the Gulf of Nicoyn, one from tin: river
.San Juan, by the Eio San Carlos, terminating near Punta Arenas; and a second from the
Lake Nicaragua hy tho Eio Nino, and the Rio Tempisque, which falls into tho head of tlui
Gulf of Nicoya. Neither of these canal projects have been surveyed.

I {

.18

THE COAST OF COSTA lUCA.

M to avoid tho banks of Viinta Aroiins, which limit tho road to tho Nurtli
and West.* It will bo nocosanry to koop ciloao to tlio bonrings liero laid
down, for to tho Nortli of tho Nopritos tho flood tido runs vory ntroiif^ly to
tho W.N.W., and tho obb to IIS.E. ThoHo bunks, formed by tlio rivers
Arnnjuoz and Baranca, are Bopnratod from I'unta Aronas by tho cliiinnol of
tho Estoro, tho dopth and direction of wiiich chan^'o witli every tido.
Havin^f approached the anchora^jo on tho foregoing lionrings, you must an-
chor wlien tho Pan do Azuear bears S.W. i \V., or tiio CagavoB S.W. This
position is a mile from tho Puntilla do Puuta Arenas, in a depth of 5 .J to (5.1
fathoms, fino sandy mud, and easy of communication with the village at all
times of tido. A little farther to tho East tho bottom is bettor for holding,
being more mud than sand ; the lighthouse will then boar N. 28' W., tho
custom-houso N. 39' W., the Pan de Azuear S. 52^ AV., and tho Ciigaves S.
43" W. Theso anchorages may be taken during tlio fine season, or from
November to June ; but during the summer they aro too near tho banks,
as tho bottom is continually shifting from tho strong currents, and you may
bo drifted on to the banks. The better position at tliis time wil' ho with tho
custom-house to N.W. i N., the lighthouse N.N.AV., and tho Pan do Azuear
W.S.W. in oj fathoms, muddy sand. It M-ill be as well to moor S.E. and
N.W., to avoid the chances of fouling your anchor by tho ..ontinual swing-
ing of the shii>.

The anchorage of the Estoro cannot bo taken without a pilot. Tlio charges
for this are G reals for each Spanish foot (10 l)-10 English inches) draught.

The tides aro regular at Punta Arenas ; their maximum velocity is 1 A
knots, and Iho average 1 knot. Tho establishment of tho port at Puuta
Aronas is 3'' 10'", and the range at springs 10 ft. 2 in.

Water is to be procured at tho Eio Baranca, 7 miles to the East of tho
anchorage. The ba. can only bo passed botwooti half flood and half ebb.
The river must bo ascended for a mile, until tho boat grounds, before which
tho water is not fre-sh, and oven then ;s sometimes not very good. On account
of the tides, not more than two trips can be nmdo in tho day. Fresh pro-
visions are abundant, but live bullocks cannot be easily procured. Sea
stock may frequently be procured, but not in large quantities. Eealejo
offers greater advantages on this score. The healthiness of Punta Aronas is
but comparative ; fever is prevalent throughout the year, attacking natives
and strangers alike, but milder during tho fiiio season than in tho oppo-
site one.

* If tho lightliouse nor tbo town bo not made out Lefore hiiving passed t}io iniriiUel of the
Pan do Azuear, and thus bearing to N. of N.N. W. or N. by W., it will bo necessary to fall
buck again to tho southward before bringing theso marks on, for without doing this there
will bo a risk of getting on to tho banks which project to the S.E.

rUNTA AI?KNAH.

;»!)

oad to tho Noi'tli
onrings lioro laid
vorv htrtiiifjjly to
icil by tlio rivoi's
ly tlio cliiiniH'I of
M'itli every tido.
jJl'H, you must nn-
ftivoB S.W. ThiH
ilopth of 5i to (J.l
the villngo at nil
ottor for holding,
N. 28' W., tho
I tho Ciigavcs S.
season, or from
near tho banks,
ts, nnd you may
I wil' he with tho
10 Pan do Azucar
moor S.E. and
wOntinual swing-
Hot. Tho charges
nchos) draught,
ui velocity is U

port at Puuta

1 tho East of tho
d and hulf ebb.
ids, before which
;ood. On account
hiy. Fresh pro-
procured. Sea

itities. Eealejo
Punta Arenas is
.ttacking natives
an in tho oppo-

J tlio pariillel of tho
bo necessary to full
)ut doing this there

Tiioro is no coasting trade in Costa Kica, as thoro is only one pnri open ou
tlio Pacilic. Tho carrying trade along the coast of (-'eiitral America is eutirciy
niouopolizod by tlio stramors of thr Panama IJailroad Cumpiiny, and although
tlio I'xpcuso of lorwarding nierchaudiso by I'ananui is llirod times as much
as by Capo Horn, still tho certainly and speed of the ouo will ultimately
<|uito stipersodo tho other.

Puntii Arenas was a froo port till January, ISCil ; since thou customs
duties have been collected, but tho shipping dues have not boon altered.
Those are dollars (i'l) for license, 1 dollar per man fur hospital dues, .J
real (.'5f/.) pev ton lighthouse dues.

Owing to tho partial filling up of tho harbour, vessels arc obliged to lio
much farther oil than formerly, and thoro is some trouble in lauding, &c.,
at low water. AVith steamers, which arrive at all hours of tho day and
night, much damage is done to the goods in tho launches by ruin and spray.
The lighthouso is not in good order, and much reliance shoidd not bo placed
on it. On account of tho deterioration of Punta Arenas, it was proposed to
remove tho port to Tarcuks, a spot to tho eastward, and nearer to tho capital ;
but it was negatived by the congress in 1861. The restrictive policy of tho
Government has much reduced tho prosperity of tho port, which is now littlo
moro than a depot.

The COAST to tho north-wostward of Cape Blanco is almost unknown. A
very imperfect survey of it was made by Mr. Hull, P.N., in IS.")!), and Capt.
do Lapelin also made a slight sketch of it, but the two do wA agree. The
coast is high and wooded, and has a beach of white sand interrupted at inter-
vals by reddish coloured cliffs. Cupc O'uioucn of l)o Lapelin is marked on
his chart at 18 miles from Capo Blanco, and ;5() miles farther is Jfurro Jfir-
mo':o, but Mr. Hull did not observe anything prominent in these positions.
Beyond them is Capo Velas, in lat. 10° l.T N., long. Hr 48' W.--- It is so
culled from tho rock being somotimos mistaken for a suii.f

* Wo lay along a (loop bay, and passed somo very romarkablo roclis or rocky islands,
whito with green tops, tho Port of Matapala bearing 8. S.E. liotwccn that and these rotky
isliinds a number of Kmall, high, whito rocks shot up, rosombling vcs.sels under sail : bearing
]■:., E. by N., and E.X.E., a little bay extending landwards, and called, as 1 suppose, from
llioso littlo rocks, "Puerto Velas."— (?. U. Skiimer, Inq.

t Cajitain do Lapelin says that he found neither point nor hillock notieiablo in the posi-
tion assigned to Capo Vehis and tho Jlorro Hernioso, and in his passiigo from the North it
vas not until ho reached lat. 9" 53' N., long. 85° 52' W., that is 21 miles farther South, and
12 miles West of that assigned to Cape Velas, that they saw a greyish clilV, slightly project-
ing from tho line of coast, perpendicular, and surmounted by some trees. The sea broke
on a reef at its foot, which extended a mile and a half. It also broko on the numerous do-
tached rocks to tho South of a white sand islet, on whiuh two rocks stood, appearing liko

THE COAST OP CO.STA ETCA.

Tho BIGHT of PAPAGA.YO may bo said to commonco lioro, extending
to tlio northward to Eeiilejo, being but a slight curve in tho gonornl line of
coast. It is scarcely worthy of the name, but becomes more familiar from tho
fact of tho peculiar winds experienced off' it called by tho name, Avhicli are
elsewhere described. Sufhco it here to state, that tho jJfipcf/ni/o is a strong
wind, blowing from N.E. to E. by N., with a bright, clear sky overhead,
and a glaring sun, with a den.so atmosphere.

At Capo Veins, Captain Sir Edward Belcher lost thepapagayo; "there-
fore," ho says, "tho limits may be included in a lino drawn from Capo De-
solado to Point Velas, and it is rather a curious phenomenon that tho
.strength of thi.s breeze seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer
n curve at a distance of lo or 20 miles from tho land."

In passing the Bight of Papagayo it is considered best to keep at 5 or
miles offshore rather than farther off; tlie squalls and calms are of shorter
duration, and kss force at this distance than in the offing. Should this course
be impracticable, a distance of 10 or 15 leagues should b(i taken. In pro-
ceeding to tli(> Nortii tho wind will bo found to veer more to the East.

Gorda Point,* according to the chart, lies 18 miles northward of Capo
Velas, in lat. 10-' ai' N., long. 8.5-^ 43 J' W. At this point tho coast turns ab-
ruptly to tlie E.N.E., towards Port Culebra.

Off Point Gorda are several higli ]-ocks, tho two largest, which are clcjse
together, are about 2} or a miles from the land, tho others lay principally
more to tho North and N.E. ; they wero all high, and tlie smaller ones liavo
very much tho appearance of upright tombstones ; others again, at first
sight, appear like a ship under canvas.

PORT CULEBRA was surveyed by Captain Sir Edward Belcher in 183S.
spot at which he observed, at the head of the port, ho places in lat. 10" 36'
55" N., long, bo' 33' 30" W. ; variation 7^ 3' 54" E. Tlio entrance to the
port is between tho Xurth and South Vlradorcs, some detached cliffy islands,
li' miles apart. Between tho South Viradores and Cacique Point, to tho
N.W. of which they lie, there is a channel of 5 to 10 fathoms ; but, as a
rocky reef runs off a quarter of a mile to the West of the point, and some
detached rocks lie South of tho Viradores, it should not be used.

Cocos Bay lies to the southward of the South Viradores, and between Ca-
cique Point and Miga Point, bearing S.W. by S. from the former: tho dis-
tance is about li mile. These points are both rocky cliffs, surmounted by
hills. Cocos Bay may be about a mile in depth within the line of opcniing.

sails. This clift', called Capo Guionos (for tho locil pilots know no point undor tho name of
Las Velas), is UO miles W.N. W. of Capo Blanco, and 20 miles West of the coast laid down
on the charts.

* Point Cutalina (of Bau/a) : from tho disjointed portions or islands, it mi-ht have caused
that of Mureielagos to be mistaken for it.-Voyago of the Sulphm; vol. i, p. 185.

monco liorc, extending
I in the gonoral line of
more familiar from the
the narao, Avliich are
3 papagai/o is a strong
', clear sky ovorhoad,

he papagayo ; " there-
drawn from Capo Do-
phonomcnon that tho
ird, hut seems to prefer

best to keep at 5 or
1 calms arc of shorter
ng. Should this course
Id he taken. In pro-
loro to the East.
us northward of Capo
int the coast turns ah-

rgest, whicli are dcjue
others lay principally
tho smaller oiie.s have
others again, at hrst

ard Belcher in 183S.
) places in lat. 10" 36'

Tho entrance to tho
letached cliffy islands,

Cdciqiie I'uiiif, to tho
fathoms ; but, as a

the point, and some
)t be used.
)res, and between Ca-

the former: tho dis-
cliffs, surmounted by

the line of opening.

o point undor llio name of
!st of t)io co.'ist laid down

nds, it mifjht havo caimed
•r, vol. i, p. 1 85.

CAPE ELENA.

•11

The bottom is formed by a sandy beach, off tho South part of which a lino
of rocks runs North about a (quarter of n mile, and jinollicr small rock lies
in its eastern part. It lies entirely open to the N.W. .b'm/*? l-'oitit lies a
niilo and a half S.W. from Miga Point, tho West extreme of the bav, and
midway between is a cliffy islet. To the eastward of Cociquo Point is a
similar bay to Cocos Bay, having about the same widlli to Hifi'iiCt .Point,
which forms tho South Point of Port Culebra, whicli extends nearly 1 miliHi
within tho two entrance points, Buena and Mala, a mile asunder ; and is
about two miles wide, tho depth oven, G to 18 fathoms, and anchorago
everywhere.

Port Culebra is certainly magnificent ; and from information by tho na-
tives, it is connected with Salinas, and thonco to Nicaragua, (Trnnada, &e.
If any. railroad is contemplated in this quarter, it ought to enter ai tiio l?ay
of Salinas, which would render these two ports important.

Water fit for consumption was not found at the beach, ^'Utmay bo obtained
a short distance up the creek, -which a boiit may enter o^ high water. If
wells wore dug, doubtless it would bo found at the N.W. side, as the sur-
rounding country is mountainous. Another symptom in favour of tliis iii tho
thickly-wooded sides and summits, as well as briglit green spots of vegeta-
tion throughout the bay.

Brazilwood is very abxmdant ; mahogany and cedar were observed near
tho beach, but as tlicy have been employed cutting tho Brazil, probably all
tho cedar and mahogany, easily attainable, has been taken. Timber, in
groat varietj-, abounded. In tho bay, whore H.AI.S. tStarlhif/ was at anchor
there was a largo village, where the natives wero anxious to dispose of their
productions, consisting of fruit, stock, cattle, &c.

The Murcielagos lio to the southward of Cape St. Elena ; thoir number
is considerable. Two rocks lie to the West of the group moro than a mile
oil", according to Captain do Lanolin, but they are not shown on tho Enfjlish
nor the later French charts.

Sir Edward Belcher says tho Murcielagos or ]3at Islands aro eight in num-
ber, and almost form two distinct harbours, the smaller islands making a
crescent by the South, one largo island protecting the East, and another of
similar size forming the lino of separation. lie anchored in the inner or
eastern harbour, and completed his water at a very convenient position, in
32 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore.

The springs are numerous, and there aro tolerable rivulets ; but only that
they watered at (between tho centre point and tho main) is safe to approach,
by reason of the constant surf. The gulf S(|uall3, even in this sheltered
position, come down the gullies with groat force, and impeded the work as
well as endangered the boats. Tho geological character of tho cape and
isliuids is a schistose serpentine, containing balls of noble serpentine.

CAFE ELENA (or Sta. Elena) is 23 miles North of Oorda Point, and is

!■

THE COAST OF COSTA RICA,

the western oxti-enuty of the peninsula which separutos the IMurcielagOH from
Elena Bay. Ivieutenant Ijoucarut, who oxaraini^d this coast in tho Frencli
corvette La VunHfantiiic, in 1859, uppHes this name to tho western point, and
calls another projection 4] miles to tlio N.E. Foint EJena. They are each
bold, but at one i-r two cables' lengths from the first point is a mnhm rock,
and at a mile West of the second point is another, which require all caution
in approaching Elena Ba}'.

The peninsula, of \< hich these points are the West and north-west
extremes, is like a long prism, tho sharpest angle uppermost. The ridge is
much serrated, and on its North side is even and very stoop. It is quite
barren.

ST. ELEVA BAY (or Kkna Batj) is 9 miles to the eastward of tho inner
point, and is about .5 miles wide in the opening. Its northern point is Point
Descartf'-. at a mile duo West (tf wliich a sunken rook is marked on tho
French cii«i't ; and a second i'ock, at a quarter of a mile in tlss same direc-
tion. In tk»- S.E. angle .■<'" the bay is a waaller inlet, T()ma-< Baij, oj)en to
the N.W., tJw'oe-quarterB of a mile wido at lihe entrance, iu which the depth
is from 8 to 12 fathoms, wid jirobably affords anchorage and shelter from
the S.W., particularly in a channel to the West of a penineula which
separates its head into two inner l>ays. Tiiere are sevral islets in tho Elena
Bay, of which T'aijares, lyin^ otf the entrance of T )mas Bay, is tho
southernmost. At U mile North of this is a higher island, Juanilla; and at
a mile S.S.]']. from Point Descartes is another, De.tpenm.

SALINAS BAY ^'-as more exactly surveyed by Lioutvoant Boucarut, iu
tho French vessel Connftipfiiif, in 1859.* Between Point, Sacnte, which is 2
miles N.N.E. of Point Descartes and Point Araiica Pnrha on tho Nitrth s' I<\
the entrance is 2 miles wide, and the depths 18 to 20 fathoms. From this
lino to a narrow 8(indy beach at its head the depth of the bay is 4 miles, and
the depth gradually shoalons to 7 and 4 fathoms. <S'a//««« Island is placed
by Sir Edward Belcher in lat. 1 1 2' 50' N., long. 85" 40' 45' W. It lies on
tho South side of the bay, and i.s almost connected -with tho South shore by
a shoal which has from .'J feet to 16 feet water on it, but 7 fathoms between
the shoal and the Q.W. coast. On tho North side of the bay a reef ol rocks
lies against the shore, called El Osfeonal. To enter Salinas Bay, a good
mark, according to Captain de Lapolin, is to bring tho sharp volcanic Peak
of Orosi, cleft on tho summit and 5,200 foot high, to bear S, 8u^ E., which
will lead up to tho island, under the shelter of which there is good anchorage
in tlje season of the West and S.W. winds.

• Salinas Bay » one of the Pacific polls proposed for an inter-oceanio canal. Tho lino
is from the Nicaragua Lake by the fciapoa Valley to the Bouthern part of the bay on the
Pacilic Coa»l,

STATE or NK.1AEAGUA.

[urcielagOH from
fc in tho French
.'siei'ii point, and
Thoy aro each
is a mnkm rock,
uiro all caution

and north-west
it. Tho ridgo is
op. It is quite

Salinas Bay offers many facilities for commorcial purposes, and Loing
separated hv only a narrow isthmus 20 miles wido from Lake Nicaragua, it
has attracted attention as an advantageous terminus for an inter-occamc
canal. It is in the disputed department of Guanacaste.

Cape Nathan is 4;- miles W.N.W. from the North point of Salinas Bay,
the coast between being much broken up into small bays, with bluff project-
in^ points between them. Some islets lio to tho West and N.W. of tho eapo
at°a quarter of a milo distant, but tho water is deep close outside them. Tho
same irregular and bold coast continues for 7 miles farther to N.W. to tho
southern entrance point of San Juan del Sur.

ird of tho inner
!rn point is Point
marked on tho
the same diroc-
na-; Baij, open tu
whicli tlie depth
md shelter from
penineula which
lets in tlio Elena
las Bay, is tho
Juan ilia 5 and at

mt IJoucarut, in

wide, which is 2

tho North svle,

)ms. From this

ly is 4 miles, and

Idand is placed

" W. It lies on

South shore by

athoms between

Y a reef of rocks

as Bay, a good

pp volcanic Peak

?, 8J E., which

s good anchorago

lie cannl. The lino
t of the bay on the

3. NICAEAGUA.

The Eepublic of Nicaragua is commercially one of tho most unimportant
States in tho world. Its .300,000 inhabitants, of whom not one-tenth are
whites, proauce or require but little for the rest of tho world. Were it
not for its magnificent lino of lakes, by which an accessory Transit Eoute
was once established under tho auspices of Mr. Vanderbilt, it would not bo
worth notice. Since the state has thrown off tho yoke of Spam, it has
g-Hluallv sunk in power and wealth, and tho few respectable inUabitants
\u^ -mil weio-lit in state affairs. The northern part of the republic is
niouutainous, but tho southern part is a vast plain, in which lie the famous
bikes being about 200 miles long and 100 milQS broad, consisting for tlio
most part of hue srLvannahs. The great Sierra Madro range, bnsthng with
hi.-h volcanic peak-., passes through the western part, broken by tho above
valley, and the lakes leave but a narrow neck of land between them and
the Pacific coasts. This physical condition of this part of the American
isthmus has attra.'ted much attention for the great question of the commum-
eation between the two oceans. Loon, a line old Spanish city, about a day 3
.ourney from Eealejo, thn Pacific seaport, is usually (but not always) the
capital of therepubhc. A good account of the State is given in C.ptair.
I5edfor.l Pirn's work, "The Gate of the PaciBc," 1800.'*

. Tho positions of tho various poi^ between tko Uulf of Kicoya and that o l.on>^c«
were well dotovniinod by Sir Edward JSelch.v, whose results have been ^^f^^^^^
ottim.. mion^ntudesof Captain d. Lapcliu -Mer from them by horn to8 f.u.hci tu
wLvard; but. as the ohvouo.uetoi. of LaBmanU.^. not verified for .. months fvon. the
n.1 dian f CaUao («o. from Fanunia). they ca^ot bo pvofen-ed to the ong, «des oota nod
7Zs.a,k.r. In the table of position., at tho c.mmcnceraent of th.B voluuic. tho best
determinations mo prcfeiTcd.

( '

! !

TIIK COAST OF NK'AKAGUA.

ifi!

U'li

'It

PORT SAN JUAN DEL STJR.-Thi.s portion of tho coast is interesting,
on account of its proxin.ity to tiio nnvlgnblo Lnko of Nicaragua ; hut it is for
this reason only, a. with tho exception of tho Tort of San Juan, called del
Sur, to distinguish it from tho other San Junu in this state, at the moutli of
tho Eiver San Juan do Nicaragua, in the Carihbean Sea, it scarcely possesses
any harbour or foroign trade, except in dye-M-ood.

The South bluff of Port San Juan is in lat. ir LV 12', Inns;. 8o= 53'
Tho proposed communication Mith tho Atlantic, by Mr. Bailj,<= was to ter-
minate here-a canal, loj miles in length, cut across tlio narrow .-act,
separating this port froni the Lake of Nicaragua, which, with tho Eio Sau
Juan, M'ould form tho navigable connexion.

Mr. Stephens says : " Our encampment was about tlio centre of the liar-
bour, which was the finest I saw in tho Pacific. It is not large, but beauti-
fully protected, being almo.'^t in the form of tho letter U. Tho arms aro liigh
and parallel, running nearly Nortli and Soutli, and terminating in high per-
pendicular bluffs. As I afterwards learned from Mr. Baily, tho Avater is
deep, aiid under either bluff, according to tho wind, vessels of the largest
(•ULsscaii ride with perfect safety. Supposing this to be correct, there is but
ono objection io tliis harbour, wliicli I derivo from Capt. D'Yriaste, witli
whom 1 made tho voyage from Zonzonato to Caldera. Ho told mo that
during the summer months, from November to IMay, tho r,tr(jng North winds
wliich sweep over the Lake of Nicaragua, pass with such violence through
the Gulf of Papagnyo, that during the prevalence of these M'inds it is almost
impossible for a vessel to enter tho J.Vnt. of San Juan.

" Tho harbour was perfectly desolate, for years not a vessel had entered
it; primeval trees grosv around it, for miles there was not a habitation;
I have walked tho slioro alone. Since Mr. Baily loft not a person had
visited it ; and probably the only thing that keeps it alive, even in memory,
is tho theorising of scientific men, or tho occasional visit of some Nicaragua
li.slierman, who, too lazy to work, seeks liis food in the sea. It seemed pre-
posterous to consider it the focus of a groat commercial enterprise; to ima-
gine that a city was to rise up out of the forest, the desolate harbour to bo
filled with ships, and become a great portal for tho thoroughfare of nations.
But the scene was magnificent. The sun. was setting, and the high western
Iioadlavul throw a deep shade over the water. It was, perhaps, tho last time
in my lifo that I should .seo the Pacific, and in spite of fevor and ague ten-
dencies, I bathed once more in the great ocean.

• Mr. Daily, a British officer, was employed by tho government of Central America to
make a .survey of this canal route, and had comi'^eted all except the survey of an unimpor-
tant part of tho Rio San Juan (the outlet of the i.J.o into tho Caribbean Sea) when the
revolution broke out. This not only put a slop to the survey, but annihilated the prospect
of remuneration for Mr. Buily's arduous services.

siimmm

SHH

ist is interesting,
gua ; but it is for
Juan, cnllod del
, at the moutli of
scarcely possesses

!', long. 85= 53'.
lilj,""'' ^vas to tor-
ho jiarrow met,
vitli the Rio Sau

3ntro of llie liar-
irge, but beaiiti-
lio arms are liigli
ing in liigh per-
il}', tho Avnter is
Is of the largest
rect, there is but
D'Yriaste, witli
lo told mo that
jng North M-inds
iolence througli
inds it in almost

isel had entered
it a habitation ;
t a person had
ren iu memory,
3omo Nicaragua

It seemed pre-
rprise; to ima-

harbour to bo
fare of nations.
high, western
ts, tho last tiino

and ague ten-

antral America to
'J of an uaimpor-
in Hen) when the
ilated the prospect

PORT SAN JUAN DEL SlIK.

•15

" At 7 o'clock Y,e started, vocros.scd tlic stream, at wliicli we had procured
water, and returned to tlio iirst station of Mr. Bully. It was on the river
San Juan, IJ mile from tho sen. The river here had sufllciont depth of water
for largo vessels, and from tliis iioiut Mr. Baily commenced his survey to the
Ijako of Nicaragua." — Incidents of Travel, &c.

AVhen Central American tran^iit route was established to assist tho trafRc
to California, tliis lonely harbour assumed a different aspect. It was made
the Pacifie steam packet port communicating with tho lino established from
New York by tho way of tho Lake of Nicaragua and tho isthmus. The
government of the state decreed tho erection of a city (CWco/Ww or rineda)
on the shore of tho bay which forms the harbour. In 1852 this city consisted
of a large encampment and a few wooden houses, pompously styled hotels,
but on the al)andonmont of the transit route it sank to its original solitude.

The shore in this neighbourhood is cut up into an infinity of bays or creeks.
It is very steep-to, as you nearly touch the shore when in 14 or 10 futlioms.
Troni the great similarity of these bays thci is some difficulty in making
out tho Port of San Juan del Sur, which is most readily done by the bearings
of tho volcanos of Momobacho, Omotepcc, JIadcira or Orosi, which rise above
tho land like so many beacons.

Momobacho is like that of San Salvador in all particulars. Its height, 42G5
feet, will not allow it to be seen iu every direction, except you are somo
miles off shore. But the pointed summit of tho cone of Omotepec (in tho
Lake of Nicaragua), 5000 feet high, and tho M'ell-marked saddle of the vol-
cano of Madeira, can always be seen, iii clear weather, overtopping the hills
nearer the sea. In favourable circumstances the volcano of Orosi, 8,0G5 feet
high, with its two pointed summits, exactly resembling two turrets united by
an immense ridgo can be seen.

The prevailing winds, strung from the N.E., shift suddenly to E. or
N.N.W. They rarely allow a sliip to reach the port without boating up to
it. To gain all possible advantage, keep to the land, where the sea is
(juiet.

The bearings of the volcanoes will point out, at a distance, the position of
Ban Juan del Sur, and when near it Omotepec will bear N.E. i N., or Ma-
deira N.E. i B., or Momobacho N. i E. These bearings pass over the
summit of u hill of a curved figure, and indented like tho teeth of a wheel.
When within about 12 miles of tlie land, the points of tho bay may be dis-
tinguished.

The hill on the North side of the harbour appears like a large greyish
patch on tho lands behind it. That on the South is like a round clump of
reddish colour, and on tho continuation of the coast are three white marks,
some distance apart ; these are three islel.s ireiiuented by ocean birds. Soon
after the entrance is made out tlio ships at tlie anchorage will be seen, and
then somo houses on tho beach.

4C,

THE COAST OF NICARAGUA.

Vessels gonorally anchor outside the harbour in from 9 to 11 fathoms
keeping over to the South point, as a rocky pat. h narrows the entrance on
the Nor h sKle. The bottom is of sand and br.ken shells, and is not very
good holding ground against the gusts from the N.E., and its groat declivity
increases th. risk of driving, but at the same time this renders it more .afe
during the gales from ^V. and S.W.

The harbour is shut in by a small boy open to seaward, and as the bottom
18 he same as outside, but of indifferent quality, it is scarcely worth .;-hiIu
entering, as communication is easy behind the heads of the harbour. Water
IS procured from wells, but it is bad, scarce, and difficult to get. Except a
few fresh provisions at high prices, there is nothing to bo procured here.-
J)e Ltqm,n.

Port Nacascolo, or Nagnmoh, or Plana Jlemom, lies almost adjoinin- to
and to the N.W. of. Port San Juan, which it somewhat resembles, and,°like
It, 18 only the resort of a i^yy natives occasionally. There is no village or
town near It, and it never has been resorted to for general European com-
laerce In its S.E. portion is a sort of canal, excavated for a short distance
tofacihtate and shorten the transit of the local trade to the town and lake
of Nicaragua, to whicli there is a road or pathway through the forest.

A\hat ,s called from custom the Port of Nacascolo, is a little mud creek in
a small stream thickly bordered with mangroves ; there is no villa-^o. Old
Clunendega is about 4 leagues from the <'port," the road to it a narrow
track through the forest, and is a neat little town for Central Amei-ica.
Chinendega is rather a pretty town, with from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants,
hnely situated in a rich undulating plain. It is one of the few towns in
Central America which had increased since the independence, and is only 3
leagues from the Port of Eealejo, all the trade of which passes through it.-
R. G. Bunloj), 1844.

Northward of San Juan del Sur the coast trends nearly straight in a due
N.AV. direction. As was stated in a former page, the district on the coast
produces dye-wood, or brazil-wood, for which its ports are much frequented.
Irom information received by Captain Eden, H.M.S. Vomcay, in 1835, the
coast between Erito and San Andres was then much resorted to by vessels
to load that article. The landing at some of the places is rather difficult ;
but the anchorage is perfectly safe, particularly from November till May.
The winds are then constantly from the N.E., though they sometimes blow
very strong ; but the sea-breezes during those months never reach the coast
Brito IS the first point of interest North of San Juan. It is 7 J miles North
of Nacascolo, and is a small bay open to the S.W. It ^'s the terminus of a
canal proposed by Colonel Orville W. Childs and Mr. Fay, civil engineers
in 18O0-1 The narrow neck of land was well surveyed, and the canal was
to leave the lake of Nicaragua by the Eiver Lnjas, opposite the island and
volcano of Omotepec, and would require twelve locks to .ross the ^i^aration

9 to 1 1 fathoms,
I the entrance on
, and is not very
its great declivity
iders it more safe

md as tlio bottom
cely worth wliilo
harbour. Water

get. Except a
procured here. —

ost adjoining to,
jmblus, and, like
3 is no village or

European com-
a short distance

town and lake
he forest.
;lo mud creek in
10 village. Old

1 to it a narrow
lentral Amei-ica.
)00 inhabitants,
few towns in
, and is only 3
08 through it. —

raight in a due
at on the coast
uch frequented.
?y, in 1835, the
ed to by vessels
•ather difficult;
mber till May.
ometimes blow
roach the coast.
7\ miles North
terminus of a
jivil engineers,
'■ the canal was
the island and
the separation

LAKE OF NICARAGUA.

into the Pacific. But the costly works rorjuired in the Atlantic at San Juan
do Nicaragua and at Brito, besides all the intormodiato engineering diffi-
culties, place the scheme beyond controversy, Brito was pronounced by
competent authority to be in size and shape unworthy of this groat ship
navigation .

The coast to the northward of Brito was surveyed by Malasplna, but wo
have no particulars of it beyond those given on Ban/a's chart. But as thero
really is no point of maritime interest on it, this is of tho less importance.
Mr. G-. U. Skinner says that after Brito follows Mffoie, an open nncliorago ;
next CasarcR, olf the mouth of a river between some reefs. This, by the road,
is 7 leagues from tho town of Ximotepe, and which is 12 leagues from
Managua on the lake. Three leagues further along the coast is the road
of Mmapa, and -H leagues further is the anchorage of JLisuchajm, to tho
southward . f Point San Andres. Hero the Brazil-wood district terminates.

Sir lOdward Belcher, in passing along to tho North, began to cxperienco
gusts from the Lako of IManagua (no high laud intervening in its course),
causing him to go under treble-reefed topsails, &c.

ll>e coast trends, generally, to N.AV. by W., and tho position of these
places is not marked on the charts. They are generally sandy beaches,
separated by cliffs, against which the sea breaks with great violence. In
about lat. 11° 55' the volcano of Momohac/nj, 4,2G5 feet high, will bo seen
inland when at some distance off shore, as it is not high enough to bo seen
over the land when close in. It much resembles tho volcano of San Salvador
in appearance, nnd seems to be of the samo outline in all directions. The
land within is very even on the summit, though not very lofty.

Cape Dcsolada, an appropriate name, lies in about hit. 11° 58', and it soems
almost in mockery that one or two stunted shrubs are allowed to stand on its
summit. Mahogany and cedar grow in tho vicinity of the cape, and to the
North of it is Tamarinda.

Tamarmda is only an open beach, where the coast becomes somewhat
lower ; beyond it, it risos again, and is called the Coda Tasca, forming a
long sterile ridge. Off the coast the depths appear to be regular, Ifl to 17
fathoms, falling rapidly to 25 fathoms a short distance off.

Behind tho coast just described are the great lakes so often mentioned,
and of euch great interest in the project of connecting the two oceans, a
a question now (1869) probably about to be solved by the intended canal by
tho gulf and isthmus of Darien.

The LAKE of NICARAaUA (or Granada) is a fine sheet of water, and,
according to Mr. Baily's account of it, is 90 miles long, its greatest breadth
is iO, and tho moan 20 miles. Tho depth of water is variable, being in some
places close to tho shore, and in others half a mile from it, 2 fathoms, in-
creasing gradually to 8, 10, 12, and 15 fathoms, tho bottom usually mud,

LAKES OF NICARAGUA.

witli 11 ileptli of l.j iatlioms in the coiitro. Tho lovcl of tlio luko is 1U8 fuot
3 inches iiltovo that of the raeiflc Ocean nt low water, spring tides.

Tliia basin is tho receptacle of tho waters from a tract of country G to 10
longuea in breadth on each side of it, tlirown in by numerous streams and
rivers, none of them navignblo except tlio Eiver Frio, having its source far
away in tlio mountains of Costa Itiea, wliich discharges into tlie lake a largo
quantity of water near tho spot where the River San Juan flows out of It.
The embouchure is 200 yards wide, and nearly 2 fathoms deep. TJiere are
several islands and groups of i.slets in different parts of tlie lake, but nono
of them embarrass th(« navigation, nor is tliis anywhere incommoded by
shoals or banks, other than tho sliallow water in shore ; and even this is but
very trifling, or rather it is no impediment at all to the craft at present in
use, tho practice being to keep the shore close aboard, for tho purpose of
ehoosing convenient stopping places at tho close of day, as they scarcely ever
continue their voyage during the night.

The largest islands on the lake are Omotepo, Madera, and Zapatera.
Taken together, the first two of these islands are 12 miles long, and have
gigantic volcanoes on them. Zapatera is almost triangular, and 3 miles
long. Senate, Solentinanio, and Zapote, are smaller, and uninhabited, but
some of them, and the last in particular, aro capable of cultivation.

Near tho town of Granada there is the best anchorage for ships of tho
largest dimensions.

Tho Lake of Nicaragua is connected with that of Leon by means of tho
Eiver Panaloya (or Tipitapa), navigable for tho bongos employed in that .
country for 12 miles, as far as tho place called Pasquiel, where tlio inha-
bitants go to cut and bring away Brazilian timber. The 4 miles which
remain between tiiat place and the Lake of Leon are not navigable by any
kind of boat, whatever may bo its construction, because, beyond Pasquiel,
tho channel is obstructed by a vein of rocks, which, when the river is
swollen, are covered with water ; but in tho dry season, the water sinks so
low that it can only escape through gradually diminishing fissures in the
rocks. At a distance of a milo beyond this first vein of rocks, Ave find
another more solid, which, crossing tho river at right angles, forms a cascade
of 13 feet descent.

The River Tipitapa, which discharges itself into the Lake of Nicaragua,
is the only outlet for the Lake Leon. The lands bordering this river are
somewhat low, but fertile, having excellent pasturage; as at Chontales,
they are divided into grazing and breeding farms. All this country, covered
with Brazilian timber, is scantily inhabited. The only village is that of
Tipitapa, situated near the above-mentioned waterfall.

The Lake of Leox or Maxaoua is from 32 to 35 miles long, and IG miles
at its greatest width. It receives from tho circumjacent lands, chiefly from

luko is 128 foot
■ tides.

country 6 to 10
lus streams nnd
ig its source far
tlie lako a largo
flows out of it.
!02J. Tliore are
lake, but none
incouimoded by
even this is but
't at present in
tho purpose of
ey scarcely ever

and Zapatera.
long, and have
r, and 5 miles
^inhabited, but
ation.
)v ships of tho

1^ means of tlio
iployod in that .
hero tlio inha-
4 miles wliieh
vigablo by any
^ond I'asquiel,
>n the river is
water sinks so
fissures in the
rocks, wo find
orms a cascade

of Nicaragua,

this river aro

at Chontales,

untry, covered

age is that of

, and IG miles
3, chiefly from

EEALEJO.

the eastern coast, a number of small streams. According to Mr. Lawrence,
of H.M.8. Thunderev, it is not so deep as that of Nicaragua.

Tlio Lako of Managua is 28 foot 3 inches abovo that of Nicaragua ; and,
according to M. Garelln, the diflbrouce botwoon h'lih water in tho Pacific and
low water in tho Atlantic is 19 A foot. In the proposition for making use of
these lakes, it is stated that tho ground is perfectly level between tho head
and Eealojo, one of the best ports on the coast ; but tho distance is 60
miles, and to Mr. Stephens the difficulties seemed to be insuperable. Sir
Edward Belcher is of opinion that there is no insurmountable obstacle to
connecting the Lake of Managua with tlio navigable stream, the Estoro Real,
Ming into the Gulf of Fonsoca.

The principal noticeable points on tho shores of the Lake of Nicaragua
aro the city of Nicaragua and the Omotepeque Volcano, .'i.O'lO feet above the
sea. Mr. Stephens says it reminded him of Mount Etna, rising, like tho
pride of Sicily, from the water's edge, a smooth unbroken cone to the above
Iieight.

Leon is tho capital of tho state of Nicaragua ; it was formerly a place of
importance, with a population of 32,000 souls, but has been since greatly
reduced by anarchy and other distracting circumstances. It is situated on a
plain about 40 miles from Eealejo, 10 from the sea, and 15 from the Lake of
Managua. It carries on some trade through Eealejo. The house-s are de-
scribed by Mr. Eoberts as very similar to those of Guatemala, none })eing
ftbovo two stories high. *

The Plain of Leon is bounded on the Pacific side by a low ridge, and on
the right by high mountains, part of the chain of the Cordilleras.

EEALEJO is the next place in proceeding north-westward, and is one of
the most important ports on the coast, and has in consequence been more
frequently visited and described. It was, moreover, minutely surveyed by
Sir Edward Eelcher, in tho Sul-phur, in 1838, and was visited by Captain
de Lapelin, in Za Brillante, in 1852.

Behind Eealejo, in the midst of the plain of Leon is the volcanic chain of
2Iarahios, which commences at Momotombo, near Lake Managua, and ter-
minates in the North at Coseguina. These two volcanic cones serve as the

• Tho city of Leon is lauded by Father Gage as the plcasantest placo in all America, and
falls it the " Paradise of the Indies." Dampier was hero in 1685, and his men marched up
to it to take it, and they set it on fire, but did not procure much plunder. The way to it,
ho says, is plain and oven, through a champion (champagne) country, of long grassy savan-
nahs, and spots of high woods. About 5 miles from the landing-place there is a bugar
work, 3 miles further there is another, and 2 miles beyond that there is a fine river to ford,
which is not very deep, besides which there is no water all tho way till you come to an
Indian tovra, which is 2 miles before you come to tho city, and from thence it is a pleasant
straight sandy way to Ijcon.— Dampier, vol. i. p. 218.

Korth Pacifc. j.

I I

(

}

COAST OF NIOAEAGUA.

cxtremo landmarks for a line of volcanic poalfs which aro so numerous as to
bo embarrassing. No loss than eight are visible at the same moiuont from
the offing of Roalejo. But about El Viojo and Momoton\bo there can bo no
doubt. Tho latter is known by the whitish smoke enveloping its summit,
and is a stoop cono of regular figure, so regular as to resemble one ot tho
pyramids. Besides this there is tho peak of Momofomhita, similar in form to
Momotombo, but much lower. This is on Lake Managua, and cannot bo
aeon from Cardon. In going from S. to N. aro the volcanoes of Axum, Las
nias, Telioa, and Santa Clam. Telica is tho most remarkable of these after
El Viejo or Momotombo. It is in lat. 12° 34' 40" N. It is a regular and
very steep cone of 2,950 feet.

The port is formed by the throo islands of Castanon, separating tho Estoro
Dofia Paula * from tho Pacific on tho South, Cardon Inland in front of it, and
forming two entrances, and tho larger island of Ascradores (Sawyers) to tho
northward.

Sir Edward Belcher thus concisely describes the harbour : — "Cardon, at
the mouth of tho Port of Eealejo, is situated in lat. 12'' 27' 55" N., and long.
87' 9' 30" W. It has two entrances, both of which aro safe, under proper
precaution, in all weather. The depth varies from 2 to 7 fathoms, and safe
anchorage extends for several miles ; the rise and fall of tide 1 1 feet ; full
and change 3i' 6'". Docks or slips, therefore, moy easily bo constructed, and
timber is easily to be procured of any dimensions ; wood, water, and imme-
diate necessaries and luxtirios, are jilon iful and cheap. The village of
Eealejo (tho name signifies a barrel or chamber organ) is about 9 miles from
the sea, and its population is about 1,000 or 1,200 souls. The principal
occupation of the working men is on tlio water, loading and unloading
vessels. It has a custom-houso and officers under a collector, comptroller,
and captain of the port."

Captain de Lapelin says that it is tho only placo hereabout where coal
can always bo 'procured, but it is also very dear. Wood may be cut on
Aseradores Island, but caro iu required against snakes. There are also
numerous sharks in the Estero. Tho anchorage here is very unhealthy and
hot in the rainy season.

The Island of Cardon is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much
iron that the sand, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle

• Sir E. Bolcher states, in his appendix, that the Estero (or creek) of Dona Paula takes
a course toward the city of Leon, and is navigable to within 3 leagues of that city. It lias
been suggested to carry a railroad from Leon to tho Lake of Nicaragua. As to any cannl
into the Pacific, unless behind tho Monotombo, Telica, and Viejo Kangc into the Estero
Ileal, Sir Edward Belcher saw little feasibility in tho scheme.

REALEJO.

«l

numerous as to
mo moiuont from
tlioro can bo no
)ping its summit,
omLlo one ot tho
similar in form to
1, and cannot bo
03 of Axusco, Zaa
il)lo of these after
t is a regular and

irating tho Estoro
in front of it, and
s (Sawyers) to the

ir : — " Garden, at

55" N., and long.

afo, under proper

["athoms, and safe

tide 11 feet; full

constructed, and
water, and imme-

The village of
ibout 9 miles from
is. The principal
ig and unloading
jctor, comptroller,

about where coal

d may be cut on

There are also

sry unhealthy and

1 contains so much
lie magnetic needlo

of Dona Paula takes
!3 of that cit}-. It has
;ua. As to anj' cannl
iiiDgc into the Estcro

to vibrato 21° iVom zero. On the West end thoy found a mark, probably
left by the Conway a fow years back.*

Tho present village of Realejo (for tho name of town cannot bo applied to
Buch a collection of hov('ls) contains one main street about 200 yards in
longtii, with throe or four openings loading to the isolated cottages in tha
back lanes of huts, f

The inhabitants generally present a most unhealthy appearance, and there
is scorcely a cottage without some diseased or sickly-huod person to be soen.t
About a milo bolow the town tho ruins of on old but well-built fort aro yet
to be traced. Vessels of 100 tons have grounded at tho pier of Eealojo
oustom-houso, but above that they would bo loft dry at low water.

Realejo is tho only port after quitting Tanamii where British residents can
bo found, or supplies conveniently obtained. Water of tho finest quality is
to bo had from a powerful stream, into which tho boat can bo brought, and
the casks filled, by baling, alongside of o small wall raised to cause a higher
loyel. Here tho womon resort to wash, but, by a due notice to the alcalde,
this IS prevented. A guide is necessary on the first visit, after entering the
creek which leads to it, and which should only bo entered at half.flood. It
is necessary to pole tho remainder, the channel not having Bufiiciout width
for oars.

The water from tho well on tho Island of Aseradores is good ; § but Sir E.
Belcher says, " I have o groat objection to water infiltrat. d through marine
sand and decayed vegetable matter, and consider the chances of sickness one
step removed by obtaining it from a running stream."

The northern channel, or entrance to the port, lying around the N.W. end
of Garden Island, has a depth of 6 to 10 fathoms. The N.W. point of the
ibland is called Poncnte Point, and is a detached rock. The N.E. point is

• Pearl oysters aro found near tho South of Cardon ; but few pearls, however, are found
in them, and tho scnrch lias been found very unprofitable.-C. U. Skinner, Esq.

t This port, if a settlement were established on Iho Islands of Aseradores," Cardon or
Castanon, would probably be moro frequented; but tho position whore vessels usually
anchor (within Cardon) to Eealejo, is a sad drawback to vessels touching merely for sup-
phos. Rum is also too cheap, and too grout a temptation to seamen. Supplies of poultry,
fruit, bullocks, grain, &c., are, however, very reasonable, and of very superior quality •
turkeys arc said to attain an incredible weight; thoy still, however, justly maintain a very
high reputation.— <S'i> Edward Bchher, 1S38.

X " This is a very sickly place, and I believe hath need enough of an hospital • for it is
seated so nigh tho creeks and swamps that it is never freo from a noisome smell. Tho land
about It IS a strong yellow clay, yet whero tho town stands seems to bo s^u^."-Eammr
vol. i. p. 221. '

{ "We established our tide-gauge on the Island of Aseradores, although directly open
seaward through Barra Falsa, and we were fortunato to find a good well of water close
to the beach."— ;S(V E. Belcher, vol. i. p. 28,

f ^!

62 COAST OF NICARAOTJA.

Cardon Jlmd, nnd is .10 foot high. Tlio channel pnssos roiiml cloao against
fliis point, and oil ovor towartls thd Wouth end of AsoriidorcH Island tlii> wiitor
is very nhallow, and a largo patch, Iho Sairi/cr Jttiiik, in nearly awash.

A roof oxtonds from the AVo.st point of Cardon to two cabh.'s' lengths, and
a rock of 11 foot water was discovered by Comniandor Payntor, E.N., in
II.M.S. (ior(/o)i, in 1«19, lying to tho northward of the inland. Trom it
Icacos Toint, tho South end of Asoradoro-s Island, l.oro E. by N., Carilon
Iload, E. \ S., ond Point Tononto, tho N.AV. point of Cai :/ai S. \iy

W. J w.

Tho Caudon Channel, that North of tho island is tho boat, perhaps the
only ono advisable, Hinco tho ro-oxaniination of tho entranco in ISO.'j.

Tho mark given for taking thin channel, called tho Cardim Channel, is—
run toward tho entranco, with Cardon Hoad the N.E. point of Cardon, and
Icacos Point tho South point of Asoradoros touching, when they will boar
East (by compass), and when at more than a cable's length from Point
Pononto stand off N.E. by N. until Castaoon Bluff opens out from Cardon
Head, and then haul close round Cardon Head, as tho current seta direct on
Sawyer Bank.

Cardon Island is three-quarters of a mile in length, N.W. and S.E. Shoal
water extends some distance off its seaward face. Its southern point is Cape
Austro, surrounded by a shoal. S.S.E. of this is Castanon Bluff, tho western
point of CastaPion Island. These two points aro a quarter of a mile apart,
and tho channel between, which has n depth of 15 feet, is the Barn

Falsa.

Tho mark for entering it is a vigia on a hill inland, or about 5 miles within
the entrance, kept between the two points (Capo Austro and Castauon Bluff),
and bearing about N.N.E. This mark kept on leads into the port, but as
the depth had decreased from 5 or 6 fathoms in 1838 to 2^ fathoms in 1865,
it bhould not bo attempted without local and recent knowledge.

The town of Eealejo is up the channel which runs at the back of Asera-
dores Island, ^which is 8 or 9 feet deep.

It is high water at Eoalejo, on full and change, at 3" G-" ; springs rise 11

feet.

The following are the remarks made by Mr. P. C. Allan, E.N., which
Mfill prove very serviceable : — "Vessels bound to Eealejo from thr southward
should (passing about 20 miles to the eastward of Isle Cocos) steer to make
the land to the eastward of the port during the period between November
and May, as the winds prevail from the N.E., and sometimes blow with
great violence out of the Gulf of Papagayo, causing a ci.rrent to set along

shore to the N.W.

" A range of mountains in the interior may be seen at tho distance of 60
miles ; the most remarkable of them is the Volcan do Viejo, the highest part
of which, bearing N.E. by N., is the leading mark to the anchorage. The

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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"'" ' ■f:

EEALEJO.

slioro, for some distance on each side of the entrance, is low and woody.
Cardon Island, which is on the right side of the entrance, is rather higher,
and its western end is a brown rocky cliff. The wooden tower, or look-out
house, which is situated 5 or 6 miles inland, may bo seen rising above the
trees.

"In coming from the southward, and running along the land, ships must
avoid a rocky reef, which lies about 7 miles E.S.E. of the anchorage oflf
Realejo, on which H.M.S. Conway struck. This reef was examined by the
boats of that ship.

" The two rocks that are above water (the one 8, and the other 5 ft. high)
are distant from the beach rather more than three-quarters of a mile. The
ground between these rocks, and IJ mile to seaward of them, and probably
more, is very uneven. The rock on which the Conway struck Hes S.S.W. i
W. threo-eighths of a mile from the N.W. or highest of the two rocks. In
passing this reef give the rocks above water a berth of 2 miles.

"The flood tide comes from the N.W. The tides are irregular ; ono day
during our stay hero it was low water 16 hours."

Mr. E. P. Brumell also says: -"In steering for Port Eealejo from the
southward, after passing the paraUel of Port Culebra, keep the land well
aboard (during the papagayos) as there is generally a strong offset. The
land is low in front, without anything to make it remarkable at 8 or 10
miles off; however, there are most exceUent marks inland, iu the event of
not getting observations. A very high peak inland, rising evenly and gra-
dually to a fine point, bearing E.N.E., will place you to the southward of
the port, and another high mountain. El Viejo, bearing N.E. ^ N. by com-
pass, will place you right off the port. This [mountain is very remarkable,
there being none other bearing the least resemblance to it, and in fact none
in the immediate vicinity."

Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Calypso, visited Eealejo in 1847, and the fol-
lowing are the remarks made from observation during his stay :—

" The breeze of Papagayo is always strong, and is felt 40 or 50 miles off
shore, strongest nearest the land. Coming from Puntas Arenas t-j Eealejo,
although this breeze does not usually ahow a ship to lay up for it at first, it
wiU, as you proceed northward, draw more off shore, and lead directly up
for the El Viejo mountain, the leading mark for Eealejo.

"El Viejo is an extinct volcano, and a remarkable landmark, being tho
westernmost of a number of conical mountains ; ono of which, Momotombo,
IS an active volcano, and almost constantly smoking, and having the ap^
pearance of a slice cut off its top, slanting to the eastward. Westward of
El Viejo the land is low, with a sandy beach, thickly covered with wood ;
with very clear weather, and approaching El Viejo from the southward, you
Will see the volcano of San Miguel (extinct,), making like a rouud island to
the westward.

COAST OP NICAEAGUA.

" Having made out El Viejo, a N.E. by N. course leads directly up to the
anchorage of the entrance of Eealejo Harbour ; 7 or 8 miles from the beach
is 19 fathoms, shallowing quickly, but regularly, to 12 fathoms, at about 4
or 5 miles from the shon . The land to the westward is a continuous low
beach, [wooded close down ; carrying the eye along this beach to the east-
ward will be observed a break, the land protruding further into the sea r the
beach white, and the surf heavier, having detached trees upon it, with low
abrupt cliffs, also an opening, which is the South entrance into Eealejo.
The island to the westward of this opening (Castanon Island) has few trees
upon it, and is abrupt at the West end ; to the westward of it is Cordon
Islana, which has many detached trees upon its West end, of larger size
than upon the apparent main land (Aseradoros, or Sawyer's Island), and is
higher and more abrupt at this end than Castanon ; there is also a large
green tree jutting out from it to the westward, and a higher rock close to it,
which can be seen as soon as the island itself.

" The face of Cardon Island is of a reddish-brown colour, occasioned by
burning the bamboo, which grows thickly upon it. Having made out Car-
don Island, the best anchorage is with its N.W. end bearing East U miles
off El Viejo, N.E. by N., in 6 J and 7 fathoms sand and mud.

" No ship should anchor to the northward of the West end of Cardon
bearing E. by S., as the soundings shoal very quickly from 6 to 5 and 4i
fathoms, the rise being about 11 feet, and always a swell, sometmies very
heavy, the ship rolling deeply ; nor is the bottom so good when nearer the
beach.

" At the commencement of the dry season, the land-winds frequently last
for several days together, blowing very fresh and preventing ships from
entering the harbour ; but as the season advances, the land and sea-breezes
become more regular, but never strictly so. Sir E. Belcher's plan of Eealejo
is very correct, though there did not appear to me quite so much water near
the East end of the North side of Cardon as laid down on it. The entrance
is narrow, making it necessary to pass close to the tree on the West end of
Cardon Island. A pilot takes vessels in and out, but requires to be watched,
as he is not a sailor, and is old and incapable. When leaving the harbour,
you should have a commanding land-wind, as the ebb sets directly across tho
South entrance, and very strong.

" The Calypso was awkwardly situated ; the land-winds failing us, we
drifted down towards Cardon Island, and were obliged to anchor and warp
against the tide into deeper water ; the anchor was let go in 3^ fathoms, but
it soon shoaled to less than 3 fathoms.

" The proper anchorage, which is nearer the Island of Aseradotes than the
opposite shore, is confined j the bottom soft mud : consequently, should a
vessel take the ground, no damage would occur. A large frigate would find
considerable difficulty in swinging heroi

MANZANA ISLAND.

tly up to the
n the beach
, at about 4
itinuous low
L to the east-
the sea ; the
it, with low
Qto Kealejo.
as few trees
it is Cardan
f larger size
land), and is
also a large
ik close to it,

ccasioned by
ide out Car-
3ast \i miles

id of Cardon

to 5 and 4i

netioies very

sn nearer the

•equontly last
g ships from
,d sea-breezes
an of Eealejo
h water near
The entrance
West end of
be watched,
; the harbour,
itly across the

ailing us, we
lor and warp
\ fathoms, but

3ol*es than the
atly, should a
ite would find

"Eealojo is healthy during the dry season (November to April), but sub-
ject to fovcr and ague during the rainy season, which commences in May.
Water can bo had, but not very good, and is very dear ; the natives fiU the
casks out of the river at low water, a little above Eealejo. Wood is cheap,
4 dollars per thousand pieces ; fresh beef is cheap, purchased by the bullock;
the stock cheap and very good ; fowls, 1 1 real ; sucking pigs, 2 reals ;
ducks, 3 reals ; lard, 1 real per ^lound ; rice, 2 dollars a quintal ; and vege-
tables scarce.

" This is the best place for stock on the whole coast. Washing is also
comparatively very cheap — 1 dollar the dozen. Fire-wood may be cut in
any quantity, and good."

Dampier, who was on this coast in September, 1685, says: — "We Lad
very bad weather as we sailed along this coast ; seldom a day passed but we
had one or two violent tornadoes, and with theiv very frightful flashes of
lightning and claps of thunder. I never did meet with the like before nor
since. Those tornadoes commonly come out of the N.E. The wind did not
last long, but blew very fierce for the time. When the tornadoes were over
we had the wind at West, sometimes at W.S.W. and S.W., and sometimes
to the North and West, as far as N.W."

Manzana Island, ovFake Cardon, is at the N.W. end of Aseradores Island,
which does not appear to be an island as you sail past it in 11 fathoms.
Manzana is only about 18 feet high, covered with trees, whose level tops
can be seen at 8 miles oS, and the island has a white beach. It is nearly
joined to Aseradores Island at the South end by a shallow channel. Several
wrecks have occurred from mistaking this island for the true Cardon, but
this error should not occur if the mountains are visible. El Viejo bears
E.N.E. from Manzana and N.E. by N. from the latter. Should El Viejo be
hidden by clouds, which sometimes occurs, the re^ lar cone oi the Telica
volcano to the South of it, which is rarely obscured, will equally serve, for
it bears East from Manzana and E.N.E. from Cardon.

The coast pursues a straight line to the Mesa de Jioidan (Eoland's or the
Eound Table), the seaward extremity of a small chain of hills, which is
easily known by its level summit, and by the large reddish patches on its
slopes, where they are not covered by trees. Between Cardon and this the
bottom is very even, with a depth cf ll or 12 fathoms at 6 miles from the
beachi

Speck Heef, of which we have no particulars beyond the chart, is marked
at about 7 miles from False Cardon, and as stretching 2 miles from shore,
with 15 feet on its outer edge. ThiS) of course, must be considered in sail-
ing north-westward.

Northward of the Mesa de Eoldan the coast is a sandy beach, so low that
it cannot be seen from the deck when in 4i or 6 fathoms. It curves around

■'«^'nMUSBETO(«lSBWBS3i' ?73ii 5r"'??

^mfmmmmm

< t

COAST OF NICAHAQUA

to the N.W., and then it rises into perpendicular cliffs, which continue to
the famous and terrible volcano of Coseguina, at the entrance of the Gulf of
Fonseca. In sailing between Bealejo and Fonseca there is no danger, if
you do not come into less than 5 or 6 fathoms. Near to the Coseguina it
may be approached within a milo, but with the flood tide it is better to keep
further off, on account of the inset into the Estero Eeal.

The OULF of FONSECA, or Conchagna, i" about 40 miles N W. of
Bealejo. It ie an extensive and fine bay ia the Pacific, almost unrivalled
for its extent, its beauty, or its security. Though generally known by the
name of the Gulf of Fonseca, it is also known by the names of Conch .gua,
of San Carlos, of Amapala, of Coseguina, and of Amatapa. Its shores are
divided among the States of Nicaragua, Honduras, and San Salvador ; its
beautiful volcanic islands belong only to the two latter. Honduras possesses
Amapala or Tigre, Sacate-grande or Velasquez and Diuposicion, while
Conchaguita, Manguiera, Martin Perez, and Punta-Sacate belong to San
Salvador.

Each of the States claiming part of its shores have opened a port to com*
merce. That of San Carlos de la Union, beloaging to San Salvador is the
most important, not on its own account, but because of its proximity to the
city of San Miguel, which at the time of its fairs (in February and Novem-
ber) is the most commercial place in Central America.

The port for Honduras, called San Lorenzo, is on the river Nacaome ; it
will only receive vessels of very light draught, and is seldom visited except
by bongos. But the Honduras Government, at the instance of M. Dardano,
the Sardinian Consul, has declared the anchorage at Amapala on Tigre
Island to be a free port, with the hope of attracting hither, from its central
position and capabilities, an entrepot of the commerce of the gulf, and per-
haps hereafter of that of the whole of Central America.

Nicaragua has its port of entry on the left bank of the Estero Eeal to the
S.W. It is merely a post occupied by a few soldiers at Playa Grande. It
is rarely visited, and quite unimportant.

The inter-oceanic railway across the State of Honduras was proposed to
terminate on the northern shore of the gulf. It starts from Puerto Caballos
or Cortez, in the Bay of Honduras to the northward, running nearly due
South to Punta Bemolina on Sacate Grande, or some other point in the
Gulf of Fonseca. The total length between the anchorage in each port
would be 148 geographical miles. It was surveyed in 1858 by Colonel
Trautwine, and verified by Colonel Stanton, E.E. It was proposed also
to extend the southern terminus to Tigre Island by a pile bridge l\ mile
long. Either this or the main land fronting the Bay of Chismuyo, or else the
Island of Garova or La Union might be a terminus.

■1

iiniiiiifriitfii-iiiiii«fM

■MNHHMikBr:

continue to
the Gulf of
danger, if
jseguina it
ter to keep

} NW. of

unrivalled
wn by the
)onoh;gua,
shores are
Ivador; its
,s possesses
lion, while
ing to San

rt to com-
fidor is the
lity to the
ad Novem-

Eicaome ; it
ited except
. Dardanu,
I on Tigre
its central
', and per-

•ft
■'a
^■

Jeal to the
rande. It

roposed to
!;o Caballos
aearly due
)iiit in the
each port
)y Colonel
posed also
i;e 1^ mile
or else the

"v^sssj"

&iii

Kri-S--

11.1

THE GULF OF FONSECA.

Mr. E. G. Squier says : —The entrance to tho bay, from the sen, is about
19 miles wide between the great volcanoes of Conchagua (5,720 feet in
height) and Coseguina (3,000 feet in height), which stand like giant warders
upon either hand, end constitute iinmistakoable landmarks for the mai-iner.
On a line across this entrance, and about cijui-distant from each other, lio
the two considerable islands of Conchaguita and Manguera, and a collection
of high rocks, called los Farallonrs, which, while they servo to protect the
bay from the swell of the soa, divide the entrance into four distinct channels,
each of sufficient deptli of water to admit the passage of the largest vessels.
These islands are high, Concliaguita being not less than 500, and Man-
guera about 600 feet in height. They were formerly inhabited by Indians,
who withdrew to the main land to avoid the oppressions of the freebooters
during tho period of their at- pendancy in the South Sea. Both of these
islands belong to San Salvador. ' '

The principal islands in the Bay of Fonseca are Sacate-Grande, or Ve-
lasquez, Tigre, Gueguensi, and Esposescion, belonging to Honduras ; and
Punta Sacate, Martin-Perez, Conchaguita, and Manguera, belonging to San
Salvador.

Velasquez, or Sacate-grando, is considerably the largest, and in common
with the others, is of volcanic origin. It is 5 miles long, by about 4 in breadth.
The southern half is elevated, rising in a number of peaks to the height of
2,200 feet. These elevations slope off gently to tho northward, and subside
finally in level alluvial grounds of exceeding fertility. These, as well as the
slopes descending toward them, are densely wooded with cedar, mahogany,
willowisti, and other valuable trees. The peaks themselves, as well as their
more abrupt southern slopes, are covered with grass called by the Indians
sacate, whence this island derives its name. These grassy slopes afford pas-
turage for great numbers of cattle, and it is said that as many as 4,000 have
been pastured upon the island at a single time. For most of the year, and
except in very dry seasons, there are running streams of water on the northern
slopes of the island. Abundance of water, however, may be obtained by
digging through the upper lava crusts, beneath which, as is frequently tho
ease in volcanic countries, flow constant streams. Tho grassy peaks of Sa-
cate Grande, as well as of the other islands, afford a source of evel'-varying
and eternal beauty. With the commencement of the rainy season, they ard
clothed with the delicate translucent green of the springing grass, which
deepens as the season advances, both in colour and thickness, until all tho
asperities of the ground are matted over with an emerald robe of luxuriance.
Then, when the rains cease, and the di'oughts commence, the grass becomes
sere, and finally of a brilliant yellow ; and the islands appear as if swathed
in a mantle r* golden grain, which Ceres herself might envy. l?hen comes
the totch of the vnqtdro, which clears the ground fof the futufe fresh and

mam

«8

COAST OF NICARAGUA.

tender blado, but loavos it browned and purpled, in sober contrast with its
previous gayer garniture of gold and green.

The island of Oueguensi may be regarded as a dopendancy of Sacatc-
Grando, from which it is separated only by a narrow and shallow strait. It
has a single eminence of great beauty and regularity. The rest of the island
is level, chiefly savanna, fertile, and well adapted to the cultivation of rice,
cotton, and sugoi'. It is fringed by a narrow belt of mangroves.

The Island of Tigro, from its position, is the most important island of the
bay. It is about 10 miles in circumference, rising in the form of a perfect
cone, to the height of 2,590 feet. The slope from the water, for some dis-
tance inward, is very gentle, and admits of cultivation. Upon the southern
and eastern shores, the lava forms black, rocky barriers to the waves, vary-
ing in height from 10 to 80 feet ; but upon the northward and eastword there
are a number of "playas," or coves, with smooth sandy beaches. It is
facing one of the most considerable of these that the port of Amapala is
situated. The water in front is deep, with clear anchorage, where vessels of
ordinary size may lay within a cable's length of the shore,

Ooseguina Point is the S.E. point of Fonseca Bay, upon which stands
the celebrated volcano of Coseguina. It is 3,800 feet high, and is in lat.
12' 68' N., long. 87° 37' W. It was anciently called Quisiguina, and stands
as before stated, on the S.E. point of the entrance. The verge of the crater
which is half a mile in diameter, is elevated about 3,800 feet above the moan
level ; thence the interior walls faU perpendicularly to a depth of 200 feet,
when the bottom of the crater becomes flattish, with a small transparent
lake in its centre. One of the most remarkable volcanic eruptions on record
oo'curred from it. It commenced on the 20th of January, 1835, and its first
evidence was, as seen at 60 miles' distance, an immense (!blumn of smoke
and flame emitted from the crater. At 9 a.m. a very heavy shock of an
earthquake was felt; the night following five shocks; and during the 21st
several shocks, accompanied with the noise resembling distant thunder,
or " retumbo,^' as the Spaniards call it. On the 22nd the ground was
covered with fire, ashes, or sand, darkness and the roar of the volcano pre-
vailing. On the 23rd, the fall of ashes and noise increased till it became
darker than the darkest night, and continued so till 3 p.m., when it cleared
a little ; everything covered thickly with the volcanic dust, the noisoj and
odour of sulphur, being overpowering. Its devastating eflfocts were conti-
nued for many weeks after.

In proof of its tl?emendous efi'ects, the eruption shook all the windows and
doors in the city of Guatemala, which is between 240 and 250 statute miles
distant, most forcibly. This was occasioned, not by the earthquake, but by
the explosions transmitted through the air; this was on January 23rd,
1835. But tiii9 distance to which the thunder of the volcano was heard,
and the dust flelt) was very much greater than this. According to the

rast with its

sy of Sacato-
w strait. It
of tho island
ition of rico,

islautl of tlio
of a perfect
for some dis-
tho southern
waves, vary-
LStward there
iches. It ia
f Amapala is
ere vessels of

nrhich stands
ad is in lat.
I, and stands
of tho crater
ovc the mean

of 200 feet,
. transparent
)ns on record

and its first
nan of smoke

shock of an
ring the 21st
ant thunder,

ground was

volcano pre-
11 it became
an it cleared
10 noisC) and
J were conti-

Windows and
statute miles
uake, but by
inuary 23rdi
was heardj
rding to the

rORT LA UNION.

ufncial account, those were both felt and hoard at Ciudad Eoal de Chia-
pas, a distance of 420 geographic miles. It occasioned very groat alarm
at Tonala and other parts in Soconusco, 460 miles to tho N.W. ; and on
the coast about Morida, in Yucatan, 800 miles off. Those to tho south-
ward were not slight evidences, but the air was darkened, and thouoisos
terrific, and the sulphureous vapours most sufl'ocating. Tho flocks pe-
rished from tho pastures being destroyed by tho dust, and great sickness
ensued among all from tho AVater becoming tainted from the same cause.

In the " Jamaica "Watchman " (January 29, 183j), too, it is announced
that all tho ships about that island were covered with tho fine volcanic dust,
which continued to fall for some days, covering everything.

C1-. TJ. Skinner, Esq., left tho city of Guatemala and Istapa in tho middle
of March, passing large banks of floating pumico during the passage to
Conchagua. When at many leagues' distance, they wero almost suffocated
by the sulphureous vapour and the volcanic dust, which obscured tho sky,
and settled on everything, causing most violent burning pains in the eyes.

PORT LA UNION is an inner harbour or bay of the Gulf of Fonseca ; it
lies on the North side, around Chiriquin or Chicarene Point, extending 8 or
9 miles inland, but the upper and N.E. sides are shallow and uncovered at
low water. This contracts the limits of the port within much sm Tier diiuen-
sions. On these flats oysters are very abundant.

San Carlos, hotter known by the name of Conchagua, is situated on tho
South side of the port. The site is badly chosen, as the difficulty in landing
is at all times great, and at low water nearly impossible ; during strong
northerly winds the communication is frequently cut off for days, independent
of imsafe holding ground for shipping. Near Chiriquin this might have
been entirely avoided. The port is entirely landlocked ; in fact, a complete
inland sea.

The actual town ot village of Conchagua, from which this port derives its
name, is situated about 3 miles up the Amapala Moimtain, or extinct volcano,
immediately over San Carlos.

If proceeding to La Union, and having made out the entrance and the
islands, steer direct for tho island Conchaguita, which may be ranged close-
to, BO as to avoid the shoal water near the mouth of tho San Miguel Piver,
and over which the flood runs strongly. If obliged to beat in, there will be
no difficulty in doing so, guided by Sir Edward Belcher's plan, or without it
by the lead. You should not come into less than 6 J or 7 fathoms near tho
hill forming the second point, on the port hand, in entering, called Point
Amapata, to the North of which is the mouth of the San Miguel, and which
ought to be kept at a mile and a half distant. Before arriving abreast of the
North point of Conchaguita, steer rather within Point Chicarene (or Chiri-
quin), BO aa to range the shore formed by the slopes of the Amatapa volcano.
The depth is greater than nearer the islands, and you will have the advan-

! (

COAST OP NICARAGUA.

tago of tho flood stream, which separates into two branches to the North of
Conchaguitn, one following the channel, tlio other diverging to the N.E.
A Sardinian vessel was driven on to the Negritos from want of knowing
this fact.

Having doubled Point Chiriquin nearly in mid-channel, an extensive bay
opens, the North point of which is filled with mud banks, which uncover at
low water. A large ship should anchor before having tho North point of
Punta Sacate bearing East, in 5J to 6J fathoms, mooring to tho flood and
ebb. Vessels of less draught may get nearer to the village, which is 4 miles
from the above anchorage, by keeping to the shore on the port hand, after
roimding Point Chiriquin, and anchor at a mile or H mile N.E. of the vil-
lage in 3J to Sj- fathoms, bottom of mud, and excellent \iolding ground,
allowing room to drive in case of the North winds which sometimes blow
with great force. Vessels of 400 tons usually anchor at 2 miles S.E. of tho
village.

If it is not intended to stay long here, or only to procure water or provi-
sions, you may stay in tho channel between Point Amatapa and the islands
Conchaguita and Punta Sacate, n little to the South of the watering place of
Chiriquin, keeping as much as possible within tho direction of tho point, to
avoid the strength of the current, and tho cross sea, occasioned by the
Boa breeze opposing tho ebb tide. You should moor N. and S.

The tides are regular, their velocity rarely attaining to 2 knots, except
between Point Chiriquin and tho Negritos. It is high water, full and
change, at 3'' 1,5"'; range at springs 12 feet 2 inches; at neaps 8 feet 10
inches.

The mud bank in front of the landing place dries out more than a cable's
length at low water; it is better then to use the native canoes to pass through
this liquid mud. In 1852 thoy were lengthening a jetty to avoid this incon-
venience.

If proceeding to Amapala (or TIgre Island) steer for tho steep sided channel,
between Manguiora and Conchaguita, closing in with tho N.W. point of tho
first of these islands to within 3 or 4 cables' lengths, so as to bring the second
hummock of the summit of Tigre Island, or rather the part where the "sa-
cate"* joins the trees, to bear N.E. I E., tho depth being from 11 to 13 fa^
thoms. As soon as that bearing comes on, steer for it, and the lead will show
a bank of sand and mud, the depth on which gradually decreases from 13 to

• Sacato is tho term applied to lliosc rui-c spaces, bare of trees, but covered with a sjiucies
of long grass, called saeate, which, during the dry season, is of tho colom- of the ripe corn
fields of Eurbpe. This grass is burned just before the rainy season commences, and theii
has a red and sterile appearance. Soon after the first rains, it assuthes a pale green, whith
looks like a plantation of sugar-canos.

THE ESTEEO REAL.

10 Nortli of
the N.E.
of knowing

ttonsivo bay
L uncover at
'til point of
10 flood and
:h is 4 miles
hand, after
of the ril-
ing ground,
etimos blow
S.E. of the

)r or provi-
the inlands
ing place of
10 point, to
ned by the

acts, except
3r, full and
i 8 feet 10

in a cable's

ass through

this incon-

ied channel,
point of thd
^ the second
ro the "sa-
,1 to 13 fa-
id will show
from 13 to

with a, sjiucies
the ripo com
CCS, and theh
greeii, whith

4 or 4 J fathoms, ^\hioh is tho shoalest part of tho channel. As soon as Cara-
colito, a low islet, covered with bushes and scattered trees, bears N.N.E.,
and cloarH well from Tigro Island, though it is connected with it at low
water, steer N.N.E. } E. towards a small cabin, or ranclio, on the sandy
beach to the right of Caracolito, approaching it till it boars N. by E., and
tlieu pass around it at tho distance of 2 cables' lengths of tho white house,
and then tho harbour will como in view, when you may anchor at 4 cables'
lengths.ofl"tl;e sandy beach, tho flagstalf bearing S. 32-' E., or a white houso
with throe doorways to S. 39^ E., being tlion in 8 fathoms, green mud, and of
excellent quality for holding.

"Water is procured from tho wells, which are private property ; that belong-
ing to Mr. Dardano is the best and most abundant.

The Estero Real, in the southern part of the gulf, appears to bo of con-
siderable importance, as .Sir E. Belcher took the Starling up it for 30 miles
from its mouth, and might easily have gone further, but tho prevailing strong
winds rendered it too toilsome a journey at this period ; he considered that it
might be ascended much higher— the natives say 60 miles— by vessolf < aT-
ing 1 feet, but steamers would bo absolutely nocos.saiy to tow against the
prevalent breezes.

According to ^'*v Edward Belcher's opinion, this unquestionably is tho most
advantageous line for a canal ; for, by its approaoliing thus tho Lake of Ma-
nagua, the entire lake communication might readily bo effected.*

Mr. G. U. Skinner says that there is considerable traffic carried on by means
of bongoes, or largo canoes, and that the distance from the ombarcadera to
the Conchagua is 65 miles.

Captain Worth says :— Leaving Eealejo for Conchagua, with the land-
wind, it is advisable to steer obliquely off shore to meet the sea-breeze, which
takes a ship to Coseguina Point, on tho East side of the Gulf of Conchagua.

• Tho Sirano, Siriano, or San Miguel River, has been one of tho sites thought of for
t'orming the communication between the two oceans, to bo connoctod with tho Bay of
Honduras, through the transverse valley, the Llanura do Comayagua, watered on the
Atlantic side by the Jagua, and on tho racific by tho Sirano, as before mentioned,
and both of which aro navigable, but how far, or how long, our knowledge will not
determine. This scheme, therefore, is very desultory.— i'/s^/MWd de Panama, jiar M. Che-
vallier, p. 72.

Tho town of San Miguel is situated on a plain at tho base of the volcano, which is 7,024
feet high, and suddenly springs on this side to itj ape.x, and is surrounded on its other sides
by ranges of ?00 to 600 feet above its level, entirely excluding it from any prospect beyond
their outlines. There is nothing in tho city itself which calls lor rcL"\rk, and its conse-
quence arises principally from tho fairs held hero for tho purpose of transacting the indigo
trade. The fair at the period of Sir Edward Belcher's visit is the principal (November 23,
1838), and had a largo quantity of cattle, horses, sheep, cite.

COAST OF NIOAEAGUA.

Sailing in the morning, you ivill generally reach this point late in the even-
ing, or the next day after noon.

The Gulf of Conchaguh will be well understood by reference to Sir E.
Belcher's plan ; there appears to be no dangers. The Calypso worked in and
out twice, tacking at loss than 2 cables' lengths from the shore and islands.*
The tides are very strong : full 2 knots at full and change, which takes pluce
at 3 p.m. About the change of the moon the land-wind blows strongly
during the night and a greater part of the day ; you can, however, see it
coming by the foam on the water.

As in coming from Eealejo you generally amve here in the evening, it
is advisable to anchor when the land wind comes off; for, should you be
driven off the coast, it will take all the next day to reach the islands, and
to arrive at the proper anchorage, the sea breeze being weak after such
strong land winds.

In the Calypso, on our first going to Conchagua, the land wind came down
with such force that the gulf appeared to break across ; and we anchored in
18 fathoms, and worked up the next day to Chiquirin Bay.

This gulf contains the best and most easily obtained water on the coast ; it
is a stream running down the mountains, clear and sweet, into the bay called
La Playeta de Chiquirin, which is just to the southward of the Chiquirin Point*
You can anchor close in. The best way to water is by rafting, the water in
the bay being quite smooth, you can pull well to windward, and alongside
to the eddy, and then across the tides to the ship. "We filled 26 times a day,
although badly off for boats, having only a 28-foot pinnace. There is a surf
on this beach, sometimes heavy, but seldom enough to prevent landing.
Merchant vessels anchor so close, as to be able to hand their casks off with
long linos. "When we first anchored in this point we tried, through ignorance,
to water in the Playa de Chicarene, but wo found the surf so heavy, the
water so bad, and such great difficulty from the tides, that we could not get
more than 18 tons a day, and that after gi'eat labour to the men, and much
damage to the casks and boats.

"Wood is not so cheap here as at Eealejo ; beef about the same price, also
washing ; but stock is dearer, and difficult to get in any quantity ; turtle is
plentiful, about 2 reals for one weighing 50 lb. Sir Edward Belcher's plan
clearly shows the only dangers in entering Port La TJnion ; they are visible

• In entering tho Conchagua from the westward, bring the laland of Tigro to bear ex-
actly between tho Islands of Conrhaguita and Manguera, to avoid the rocks off Point Can-
dadillo. Tigro is a high conical hill. It is thus quite safe entering to an anchorage,
even at night, if this island be seen, which is seldom not the case at all seasons.— (7. U.
Skinner, Esq,

ate in the eTen<

)renoo to Sir E.
so worked in and
ore and islands.*
rhich takes plitce
d blows Ptrongly
however, see it

a the evening, it
, should you be
L the islands, and
weak after such

wind came down
d we anchored in

r on the coast ; it
ito the bay called
Q Chiquirin Point*
ting, the water in
d, and alongside
d 26 times a day,
. There is a surf
prevent landing,
lir casks off with
irough ignorance,
irf so heavy, the
we could not get
B men, and much

( same price, also
[uantity; turtle is
rd Belcher's plan
; they are visible

of Tigre to bear cx-
e rocks off Point Can-
ing to an anchorage,
t all seasons.— C U.

SAN SALVADOE.

at low water, the only difficulty is the very great strength of tide; it is quite
a sluice round Ohicarene Point.

4. SAN SALVADOE.

San Salvador is the smallest of the Central American Eepublics, but re-
latively to its extent, it is the most densely populated, and has the most in-
dustry and commerce. It extends from the North side of the Gulf of Fon-
seca to the Eio Paza or Pazaea, about 1 60 miles to the westward, which
separates it from the Eepublio of Guatemala. It has a population, according
to Mr. Squier, of 294,000. It is an agricultural state, and the principal pro-
ducts are indigo, the chief article, sugar and maize. Indigo, produced from
an indigenous plant, the jiquilite, is easily raised and manufactured. The
coast presents, generally, a belt of low, rich alluvial land, varying in width
from 10 to 20 miles. Behind this, and presenting an abrupt face seaward,
is a range of mountains, or rather a broad plateau, having an average eleva-
tion of about 2,000 feet. Along this plateau there are not less than eleven
great volcanoes, running in nearly a direct line from S.E. to N.W., coincident
with the great line of volcanic action, which is traceable from Mexico to
Chile. Its principal stream is the Lempa, which would be navigable for
small steamers for probably 100 miles, but it is hopelessly barred from sea-
ward. The chief ports, if such they can be called, with the exception of the
fine harbour of La Union, are Acagutla and Libertad, mere open roadsteads,
only deriving their existence and importance from their proximity to the re-
spective cities of San Salvador and Sonsonate. Another place, Concordia, has
been formed to the westward as a port to the town of San Vicente.

We have no proper survey of the coast ; but as it has only to be known to
be avoided, this want is of the less importance. The "ports," or an-
chorages, are only of interest.

In general, the inhabitants of Salvador have more intelligence and industry
than those of the previously described States of Central America. Their
government is more liberal, and the rights of person and property are more
respected, and the privileges extended to foreigners are greater than those
above mentioned, under a treaty negociated by Mr. Squier, United States
Minister to Salvador, in 1850.

The commerce of San Salvador is chiefly carried on through means of
fairs established by the government in the districts best suited for the exhi-
bition of the products of the State. The principal fairs are held at Chalalte-
nango, San Vincente, and San Miguel. The two former take jilace on the
Ist of November in each year ; the latter, called "Fair of La Paz," on the
21st of the same month. It lasts about two weeks, and is far the most im-
portant of any held in the country. It attracts buyers and sellers, not only
from all parts of Central America, but from nearly every part of the Pacific

-* J »'' - T-T « W m; i-l i, ' ■ -""! ■

Mi| ii»*W j M3

COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.

coast, as well as from England, Germany, France, and the United States.
About the only product given for the goods sent in by foreigners is the staple
of the state, indigo. A second fair, called " Ceniza," takes place in San
!Miguel about the beginning of February. To both of these fairs large num-
bers of cattle are brought from Honduras and Nicaragua.

The Coast, as delineated on the chart, is taken from the survey of Don
Alexandro Malaspina, in 1794, as drawn up subsequently for the Spanish
Govermnent by Don Felipe Bauza, F.R.S. In tho introduction to the next
chapter we have noticed the unfortunate voyage of this commander, and
have there stated the reasons why we have not a more complete descrip-
tion of the tract he explored.

From Candadillo Point, the western limit of the Gulf of Fonseca, the coast
is low and sandy for some distance, till we arrive at a part where it becomes
higher, and in some places cliffy, for about 10 miles to where San Miguel
volcano bears N. 18° E., when it becomes again low and sandy to Jiquilisco
and Libertad. These low beaches, particularly at sun rise and sunset, occa-
sion such a strong mirage, that it appears as if the surf breaks much far-
ther off than it does in reality. The soimdings off this shore are regular, and
increase gradually toward the offing, contrary to tho opinion tliat the bottom
is very uneven and dangerous to navigate by the lead ; but it may be affirmed
that a vessel wUl be in safety anywhere between Fonseca and Point Eeme-
dios, so long as she is in more than 8 or 10 fathoms. A more general re-
mark may also be made, that on the whole coast of Central America, the lead
will be a good guide, and that the depth above stated is generally safe, ex-
cept in some places, where it would be too near the land, and 13 to 18 fathoms
is a better depth to maintain.

PORT JiaUILISCO, (or Giquilisco), or del Triunfo de los Lihres, according
to Colonel Don Juan Galindo (an Englishman in the service of the republic),
is about 24 miles beyond Candadillo, the N.W. entrance point of Con-
chagua.

In 1798, the Eoyal Consulate of Guatemala ordered Don Vincente Ro-
driguez del Camino to survey it. He states that it was then named the Bay
of San Salvador de Jiquilisco (a species of plant, the indigofera disperma), an-
ciently called the Bay of Fonseca. May this account for the double name
applied to Conchagua to the S.E. ? The name given to it by Colonel
Galindo evidently has reference to one of those " triumphs," so common and
80 ephemeral in these distracted countries. We have therefore preferred the
old name.

According to tho old plan of Don V. del Camino, the anchorage is good and
well sheltered. Like Tehuantepec, the coast of the main land appears to be
fronted by a long narrow island, perhaps formed by the tremendous surf
raised by the prevalent winds.

V w L i m w > ^ ' . - ' ■ -•rf%^'<

\M UJt7 W l^ gJ WTBP -^

THE EIVER LEMPA, OR LAMPA.

ited States,
s the staple
lace in San
large niim-

vey of Pon
he Spanish
;o the next
Lander, and
)te descrip-

a, the coast

it becomes

3an Miguel

) Jiquilisco

unset, occa-

much far-

•egular, and

the bottom

be affirmed

oint Eeme-

general re-

ca, the lead

y safe, ex-

18 fathoms

), according
e republic),
:nt of Con-

ncente Eo-
ed the Bai/
iperma), an-
)uble name
by Colonel
3mmon and
referred the

is good and
ipears to be
mdous surf

The port, or rather the creek or " Estero " of Jiquilisco, has not the same
appearance as the rivers, &c., to the Weijt; instead of mangroves, the shore is
marked by bushes of a pale green or muddy colour, or else without leayes.
The volcano of San Miguel, kept on the bearing of N. 27° E., will lead on
to the horse-shoe breakers. At a mile and a half off" the water is much dis-
coloured, but the depth is 7^ and 8^ fathoms, fine grey sand, which would
not hold well ; a better anchorage would be 1 i mile West of the bar, where
there is an adhesive mud, and black sandy bottom. We were not fortunate
enough to find the channel across the bar, described by the officers of Le
Gi'ftie, as stated below.

The bar of Jiquilisco forms a sort of horse-shoe, wliich must be crossed to
enter the estero. The sea frequently breaks heavily on it, but there are
places where it does not do so, and where it may easily be attempted ia
boats. There is 14| feet least water on one part, and the tide rises 8^ feet ;
it is therefore possible even for ships of considerable burden to clear this line
of breakers, which is but narrow, and find plenty of water within, except on
three or four small shoals, which are not difllcult to avoid. One feature of
the place, which will point out the channel, is that the ebb tide from the
estero forms a line of eddietor ripplings in which there is always deep water,
and which crosses the banks in the deepest part. This current turns with the
tide, and sometimes runs at the rate of 3 miles an hour, and with the flood
tide makes a very heavy sea on the bar, except at the time of high water.
(Captain Jamin, of the brig Ze Genie). At the entrance of the estero is
Pajaroa Island, which separates it into two channels, in which it is said there
is a depth of 8 fathoms.

The RIVER LEMPA, or LAMPA, runs within a league of one of the
arms of the estero of Jiquilisco, and the inhabitants state that another
branch joins the Eiver San Miguel, which falls into the Gulf of Fonseca.

In passing along the coast of this river the navigator should be very cau-
tious of his distance, for it is stated that a long bar or flat runs off, as
indeed might be anticipated, from the magnitude and character of the river.
This flat, which reaches thegreatei part of a mile, is called the Barra delFs-
piritti Santo, and on it the ZitcreUa, a brig drawing 12 feet, was wrecked,
February 18, 1847. This was inconsequence of the ignorance of the ex-
istence of such a projection.

In Father Gage's work, before quoted, he mentions the Lempa: — "This
river is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any heinous crime,
or murther, on this side of Guatemala and San Salvador, or on the other side
of St. Miguel or Nicaragua, if he can flie to g^t over this river, he is free as
long as he liveth on the other side, and no justice on that side whither he is
escaped, can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise
for debts, he cannot be arrested."

Among the many undeveloped resources of San Salvador, cor.^ mny come
North Pacific. j

COAST OP SAN SALVADOE.

to have a first value. Mr. Squier says that there is reason to believe that
vast beds exist throughoui the valley of the Eio Lempa, and in the valleys of
some of its principal tributaries, over a region 100 miles long by not far from
20 miles broad. It had long been reported to exist, but he set the question
at rest after his visit in 1853, by proper investigations. Coal was found in
the valley of the Eio Titiguapa, flowing into the Lempa from the coast, iJso
in the valley of the Eio Tordla, and large beds are reported to exist near the
town of Itobasco. The coal is all of the variety called hrmvn coal, and is a
later formation than what is known as pit coal ; similar coal is extensively
used in Germany for various mineral purposes.

The entrance to tho Lempa Eiver is similar in character to the others West
of it. It is known by some large trees with white trunks, with the tops al-
most bare, rising above the lighter coloured and lower wood, similar to the
copsewood of northern countries. It is found when coming from the East or
South, by bringing San Salvador to bear N. 50° W., or San Vicente N. 16°
W., and then running on either of these bearings will bring up to the bar.
Coming from the westward, San Miguel bearing N. 60° E., will bring you up
to it. The entrance is about half a mile broad, barred by breakers, which
reach a mile oL, and which the natives say cannot be taken. It is quite
unimportant, and there are only a few fishing huts on its left bank.

Above this port and the mouth of the river the Fblcan de San Miguel rises.
It is 7,024 feet high, and is a very conspicuous object in the offing, and will
serve well to point out the locality.

La Concordia, a "port" of late growth, is at the mouth of the Jiiver
Jiboa, 11 miles W.N.W. of that of the Lempa. This river drains the Lake
of Itopango, but we have no particulars of the anchorage.

PORT LIBEATAD is about 50 miles to the westward of the Lempa.
It was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, and we copy her commander's observa-
tions on it.

One would naturally expect from this title that something pretending to a
bay, or deep indentation at least, would have warranted the appellation. But
a straight sandy beach, between two slightly projecting ledges of rock about
a mile asunder, forms the^/rts« of Libertad. It is law and interest only that
have made it a port.

At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of
large smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises they
are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving strong bottom
left, on which the boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally
violent for three or four days, at full and change, which corresponded to the
time of our visits.

The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in 4 or 5 fa-
thoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the most
dangerous, are caused by the offset or efflux.

a^t '- " '.ii-iiig : ■ ! ' ■ ■■ w."-> ^J r i g u ) M«"a'jjuc ''' i I ' lK IW--1I

elieve that
9 valleys of
ot far from
le queBtion
B found in
coast, uIbo
st near the
^, and is a
extensively

thers West
le tops al-
tlar to the
;he East or
ite N. 16°

the bar.
ing you up
ers, which
It is quite

iguel rises,
g, and will

the liiver

1 the Lake

le Lempa.
1 ohservn-

nding to a

ation. But

rock about

only that

1 being of
rises the,y
ig bottom
generally
ded to the

4 or 5 fa-

the most

•.:il«s<:

i-i

} %

:iM

ti'i

:L:.i4ii"ji,jl

:!;: li'

<»«I'J'-|

POET LIBERTAD.

The sand bdaeh is composed chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried

superstratum, about one inch in thickness, raking in flakes free from ad-
mixture.

The anchorage is uneasy, and I should think unsafe, and should bo avoided
near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain ca-
bles, unless with a long range.

Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but compared with those of San
Salvador or Eoalejo, the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only be enbarkod
in one of their bungoes.

The port, afte. this, was for a long time deserted, but when Captain de
Lapelin came here in 1852, it had been reinstated, and the custom-house
stores re-built. A launch was also maintained, going out and returning by
means of the andariyel. The mark for approaching it is to bring the volcano
of San Salvador to bear N. A E., which bearing will lead up to it.

When at 8 miles ofl'the depth will be about 25 or 27 fathoms, muddy
bottom, which depth will gradually decrease toward the shore. At about 6
miles off you will begin to make out the large storehouse covered with trees,
and with whitewashed walla, having a flagstaff to tho East, and a white
house to the West; when nearer you will see the tops of the palmetto trees
and some huts. When a mile off the place tho do^jth will be about 8^ fa-
thoms. Water may be got though with difliculty, from the little River Que-
lama, which falls into the sea at less than half a mile West of the village
Capt. De Lapelin adds his opinion that this place should not be frequented
between July and October.

Sais' Salvadou, the capital of the redublic, is to the N.E. of Libertad. They
are connected by a cart road 2G miles long.

Sir Edward Belchor visited this city in April, 1837, going thither from
Eealejo, the road being through a very mountainous tract. The town is very
prettily situated on a level plain, or amphitheatre, from which several lofty
mountains rise, that of the Volcan de San Salvador being the most con-
spicuous.* San Salvador was the capital city of the confederation of tho

• When wo first saw the mountain of Guatemala, wo wore, by judgment, 2;) leagues' dis-
tance from it. As we came nearer tho land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no
fire, but a littlo smoke proceeding from it. Tho land by tho sea was of a good height, yet
but low in comparison with that in tho country. The sea, for about 8 or 10 leagues from tho
shore, was full of floating trees or drift wood, as it is called (of which I have seen a great
dc.ll, but nowhere so much as here), and pumice stones floating, whirh probably are thrown
out of tho burning moimtains, and washed down to tlio shore by the rains, which aro very
violent and frequent in this country.

Tho Volcan of Guatemala is a very high mountain, with two peaks or heads, appearing
like two sugar-loaves. It often belches forth flames of fire and smoke from betwcoa tho two

heads, and this, as the Spaniards do report, happens cliiefly in tempestuous weather.

Dampier, vol. i, pp. 22.J— 230.

03 COAST OP SAN SALVADOR.

StatoB of Central America, and in imitation of tho Washington in tlio Unito.I
States, it had a Federal district assigned to it, which included the lort ot
Libertad, but this confederation was dissolved in 1831). It was a very hand-
some city, of 2.'-. ,000 inhabitants, with line churches and public buddings:
but on April IGth, 18.54, at 10 minutes to eleven, such a terrific earthquake
occurred almost without the slightest warning, that in ten seconds tin entire
city was thrown into heaps of ruins. It was then nearly deserted, and the
seat of government was removed 10 Cojutopcque, about 12 leagues distant.
But it is now in course of being rebuilt, the people having generally returned,
and it may soon regain its former position.

Under the auspices of a late President, DueHas, tho cart road was nearly
completed to Libertad, a distance of about 22 miles.

The COAST between Libertad and Acajutla is very uneven, covered with
trees, or with reddish-coloured barren patches. On the sea it forms cliffs,
bordered by a beach of shingle. It is known as the Costa del liahamo, as tho
Indians here collect the "Balsam of Peru." It is, however, quite clean,
and may be approached within view of the breakers.

A district along tho coast, between the Ports of Libertad and Acajutla, is
called, as above said, tho Coda del Bahamo ; it produces an article known
commercially as the Balsam of Peru, from its having been sent to Lima for
export to Europe. It is collected solely by tho aboriginal Indians who in-
habit that district. About 20,000 lbs. (valued at two shillings, or 50 cents.)
are obtained for annual export.

Indigo is the chief article of export. Under the Spanish rule, the value
of this article amounted to 3,000,000 dollars per annum ; but since tho inde-
pendence of the state, it has sunk to little more than 1,000,000 dollars.-

{Dr. Otis.)

POET ACAJUTLA, or Sonsonate Eoads, is tho next attainable point be-
yond Libertad.

The principal town of this port is Sonsonate,* which is situated about lo

miles inland. There is also a small village on the coast which gives its name
to the port; it consists of about thirty habitations of various descriptions,

• Sonsonate, or Zonzbnatc, doiives its namo from tho Rio Grando, foimed by almost in-
numerable springs of water, to which tho n^mo otZezontlatl is given, a :Mcxican word mean-
ing 400 springs, corrupted to Zon/.onato.

" Santissiraa Trinidad de Zonzonate is situated on the llio Grande. It is a pleasant town,
although the climate is very hot. Each of three monastic orders have (had) a convent here.
The church is very spacious, besides which there are three oratories. On tho opposite side
of the river it has a suburb called tho Barrio del Angel, on which there is a chapel. Tho
communication between tho town and tho suburb is by means of a stone bridge. In the
vicinity are three small Indian villages, &c."-J)on Bom. Jmrros : Translation by Mr.
Saili/, y.2S,

gton in tlio United
iiuli'd the Port of
t was a very hand-

pviblic buildings:
torrilio earthquake
, sncondf" tin entire

deserted, and the
2 leagues distant,
generally returned,

:t road M'as nearly

lOven, covered with
sea it forms cliffs,
■ (Id Jialsamo, as the
srovor, quite clean,

id and Acajutla, is
8 an article known
on sent to Lima for
il Indians who in-
Uings, or 50 cents.)

lish rule, the value
; but since the inde-
1,000,000 dollars.—

attainable point be»

is situated about 15
which gives its name
various descriptions,

lo, foimed by utmost in-
n, a ^Icxican word mcan-

le. It is a pleasant town,
lave (had) a convent here,
es. On the opposite side
I there is a chapel. The
f a stone bridge. In the
irros : Translation by Mr.

PORT ACAJUTLA. 60

most of thorn of the meanest order; they are constructed of bamboo open
work at the wdes, and tlio top is rudely thatched of palm loaves, which latter
is, however, made impervious to the lieavy rains that fall almost perpendi-
cularly in the wot season. The tilo-roofed custom-houso stores is one of tlio
most conspicuous buildings, and thoro is also still remaining the ruins of an
old Spanish fort, in which is situated the dwelling-house of the governor.
This officer performs all tho official duties of captain of tlio port, adminis-
trator, &c. Tho business of tho port had increased considerably in conso-
quonco of the duties being lower than in Guatemala.

Vessels leaving Europe in August, September, October, November, and
December, are sure to arrive during tho best season for disembarking on tho
coast. No vessel should arrive later tlian the middle of April, as after that
date tho rains set in, and a heavy sea rolls in upon the coast, which prevents
the launches from venturing out.

The port consists of an open bay, of which Point Romedios is tho eastern
boundary. There is anchorage aU over it at a prudent distance from tho
shore in from 7 to 15 fathoms water ; the bottom appears to be of sand, with
here and there a patch of mud. Large vessels should not anchor in less than
12 fathom?.

The surf breaks heavily on the beach, which renders landing in ships'
boats almost impracticable. The usual mode of clfccting this object was in
large canoes or bongoes, which are kept for the purpose of discharging car-
goes.^ There is generally one of these kept afloat, moored just without the
surf in the N.E. corner of tho bay, near where the village is situated: per-
sons desirous of landing usually pull in in their own boats, transfer them-
selves, with a portion of their crew, into the bongo, and haul in through tho
surf to tho beach by a line fast to the shore for that purpose. To get on
shore dry, they wi.l thon require to bo carried out through tho receding surf,
which is about 1 foot or 18 inches deep. This contrivance, called at Istapa
tho anda-rivcl, is described more fully on page 7.'3.

Fonucrly this mode of landing and embarking was tho only ono practica-
ble, but the increasing commerce of tho place, and the fact of a steep flat
rock projecting from the shore about 70 feet at three- quarters of a milo
from tho original landing place, and being deep water close up to this
rock suggested to Dr. Driven, a rich proprietor, the formation of a pier.

The rock had long been called El Mvellel The pier was completed in 1854,
and consists of a substantial timber construction loading on to tliis rock, and
has a crano by which the ships' cargo is discharged or embarked. Li front
of the rock is a channel of 11 or 12 fathoms depth, and it is said that no sea
is sent into it sufficiently heavy to affect a vessel mado fast to the four
moorings placed there for tho purpose. Tliis immunity from danger may be
doubted in some degree, but its safety is well understood by the local pilots.
Water is conducted to the pier-head, so that it may be taken on board by a

70 COAST OF SAN SALVADOR.

hose. By giving two clays' notice, fresh provisions may bo obtained in largo
r(uantltie8 from Sonsonatc.

Point RemedioB has a reef off it extending in a aouth-woHterly direction
nooi'ly 3 milc« in lino woather. This roof searcoly sliowa itself, therefore more
caution is noceswary in rounding it. Vessels of a light draught have fre-
quently passed safely over tho outer part of it unknowingly, whereas several
others, less fortunate, luivo boon brought up by detached rocks, and a total
wreck has ensued. The point is long and low, thickly wooded, and from tho
eastward easily rceogni/ed.

Beef, poultry, vegetables, and fruit, aro plentiful and cheap. Water is
plentiful on shore, but the difficulty of getting it off through the surf is
very great ; however, if much wanted, it may be had with a littlo extra la-
bour and perseverance.

The mark for anchoring was, in 1852, the llagstaft' on with the largo door
of the custom-house store, in 7 to M fatlioms, according to the season. Tho
flagstaff should not be brought N. ofN. (51° E., particularly when near tho
land, as tho bottom will then be rocky, and there is the chance of breaking
or losing the anchor. The bottom is not good holding ground, and vessels
sometimes drive. In tho line season tho current generally runs to tho E.S.E.
at the rate of eight-tenths of a mile per hour. It is high water, at full and
change, at 2'' 3o"' ; greatest range 11 feet.

n.M.S. Uaiana anchored hero in May, 1859, in i'l fathoms, with the land-
ing place N. SS'- E., and Point EemediosN. 81° 25' E., the shoal off the latter
sheltering her from the S.E.

Captain Harvey says : — Here we found a substantially built wharf, at
which there is generally fair landing, although at tuues the surf is such as to
prevent any approach. Merchant vessels discharge and receive cargo by
their own boats. Beef, stock, vegetables, and fruits may be obtained in any
quantity from Sonsona te ; but two days' notice must be given to secure having
any considerable amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which
were useful in getting off bullocks. A vessel shotild stand no nearer to the
Eemedios Bank than to 20 fathoms without a good breeze and clear weather
The volcano Isalco was burning the whole of tho stay. No lighthouse giyes
a better light ; the bearing, N.E. by N. is a good mark for the port.

The following observations on this port, and on approaching it, are by
Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Cahjpno, in 1847 ;

Acajutla, or Sonsonate Eoads, although not much known, is safe, the
oldest inhabitant remembering only one wreck : the reef off' Eemedios Point
breaks, the sea setting directly into tho anchorage. Here the salt water
is very injurious to the cables and copper; although at anchor not more
than a fortnight, the cable and anchor were completely covered with small
shell-fish, as also the boom boats ; this remark is applicable to all the ports
we visited on this coast, though not so much as at this place.

)0 obtained in largo

i-wowterly diroction
self, tlieroforo moro

draught have fre-
ly, wliereaii aovorul

rocks, and a total
ludod, and from tho

cheap. Water in
irough the surf is
h a little extra lu-

ivith the largo door
,0 tho season. Tho
,rly when near tho
jluuico of breaking
jround, and vessels
r runs to tho E.S.E.
. water, at full and

loins, with the land-

shoal oiT the latter

,lly built wharf, at
he surf is such as to
id receive cargo by
r be obtained in any
ren to secure having

1 with cranes, which
id no nearer to the
so and clear weather
No lighthouse giyes
for the port,
reaching it, are by

known, is safe, the
ofl' Eemedios Point
lere the salt water
at anchor not more
covered with small
iblo to all the ports
[ace.

PORT ACAJUTLA.

Tho passages to tho westward are uncertain as to time, tho laud and sea
breezes being so very unsettled.

Tho land-brocze always blows (if over interrupted, only for a short
period) at all tho ports wo visited, except Conchagua, and is nearly al-
ways sullicient to take a ship to sea. As a rule, I should recommend,
on leaving any port, that you stand oH" shore, always bearing in mind that
tho sea-breozo is from South to S.W. There is u current always sotting to
tho S.E.

Between Couchaguu and Acajutla tho pussugo is very tedious, being never
loss than two days, and sometimes live, and oven longer, tho land-breezo
being not to be depended on, and tho soa-broczo often very light, although
at times tho soa-breezo will blow very fresh indeed. Tho best plan, after
leaving Conchagua, is to stand rather oil' shore, so as to make a long leg off
with tho Hoa-broozo.

The coast is (luite clear, there being anchorage nearly all along it.'

We found the sea-breezo seldom set in before noon, and often later, and a
continual sot to tho S.E. Tho leading mark for Acajutla is tlie Isako Vol-
cano, which smokes, and freriuently sends up largo jets of lire. On u N.E.
by N. bearing it leads to the anchorage off Acajutla. Point llomodios, long,
low, and thickly wooded, may easily bo recognised.

This anchorage is difffcult for a stranger to find ; the best plan is to tako
notice of the several volcanoes on tho coast, after leaving Conchagua; viz.,
San Miguel, San 'Vincent, and San Salvador. Tho land is u low beach, the
soundings decreasing gradually to 10 fathoms, at ;5 or 4 miles offshore, until
tho volcanoes are past, whon it becomes tolerably high, and has 25 fathoms
at a little distance from the beach, particularly in the bight to the S.E. of
Point Eemedios, where in that depth the surf can be heard quite distinctly.
Point Eemedios, which runs out from this moderately high land, is low, and
thickly wooded, appears to stretch a long way into the sea, and has several
black rocks, one nearly a solid s(iuare, lying just oft' it ; these rocks are tho
inside part of a reef extending o miles in a S.W. direction, on which the sea
breaks heavily at times. On the S.E. side of this point tho beach is clear,
having no rocks upon it ; but on the N.E. side it is broken by rocks and
clumps of trees, dividing it into a number of small sandy bays. Should you
not bo close in, you cannot make the point out, as it appears part of the low,
thickly-wooded land that stretches from tho before-mentioned moderately
high coast to the westward of Istapa.

The Volcano of Isalco, 5,000 feet high, is decidedly tho surest mark, bear-
ing N.E. i N., if it can be made out ; but, as it does not smoke constantly,
and is situated on the side of, and is lower than, the mountains behind (Sierra
Madre), it is very difficult to find.

The Madre, and mountains to the westward of Isalco, are very high ; it
may be known by the tableland top, in which it differs from tho others, they

COAST OF OUATEMATiA.

hoing conical, or approaching that form. Tho lealco in a coniLiil volcano,
apparently on tho East sido of the Madro, and tho crater is about one-
fourth down from the table land.

The coast between Acajutla and San Josi' or Istapn, a diHtanco of .'56 miles
runs W.N.W. and E.S.E., with Hcarcely any inflexion; it is throughout of
gray sand, wooded to the shore, nnd boaton by a continual nurf. Here and there
tho vegetation is cf a paler greon, and tho whitonod stems of tho mangroves
indicate tho impassable entrances of tho Rios dva A'sclacos,* Pnz(i» (the stato
boundary), Santiago, and Cauha. Thoro is no danger off shoro, and tho depths
aro regular, of sandy mud. The current runs from "VVost to East, ut half u
mile to ono niilo per hour.

The best course to pursue in coming from Acajutla to Istapa, or rather San
Jo86, is to keep 2 or a miles off tho land, in 16 or 25 fathoms, so as to take
advantage of the land broozcs, which aro gonernlly light. The sea breeze
often sets in from 8.W. to W.S.W., and then you can beat in shore into 12
fathoms. The load is an excellent guide, and there is nothing to fear, as tho
depths diminish regularly. IJut when the sea breeze sinks about 6 p.m., and
tho land breeze will not give you a way of 3 knots, it is better to auchor ut
once, or you may lose gi-ound.

6. GUATEMALA.

The Eepublio of Guatemala is the principal state of Central America, in
respect of population and wealth. It is generally mountainous, but a large
part of the interior consists of elevated lands of unsurpassed beauty of
scenery, of vast fertility, and unquestionable^ salubrity. Its great deficiency
is the want of ports on cither ocean, and thi^ fact will act as a great chook
on its commercial progress. On tho Pacific it extunds from the Biver Fazas to
the confines of Mexico. This last boundary has been tho subject of long dis-
pute, but it was settled in 18.54 by Guatemala ceding all light to the rich dis-
trict of Soconusco, extending for nearly ono hundred miles along the Pacific,
on the payment by Mexico of a considerablo sum. The rivers falling into tho

• " Tho lih dc loi Kiekvoi, which falls into tho sea West of \cajullu, is described hy
Stephens as a wild majestic river. Ho crossud tho bridge over it, erected under tho Spanish
dominion, und the greatest striicturo of that period. Tho village beyond was u mere col-
lection of huts, standing in a magnificent situation near tho river, and above which moun-
tains rise covered to their summits with pines. Every predatory or lighting expedition be-
tween Quatemala and 8an Salvador passed through this miserable village. Twico within
his route Slorazan's ai-my was so straitened for provisions, and pressed by fear of pursuit,
that huts were torn down for firewood, and bullocks slain and eaten half raw in the street,
•without bread or tortillas. After leaving this village, the country vans covered with lava."
—Incidents of Travel.

li.

tt conieiil volcano,
rater is about one-

diHtanco of .'56 miles
it is throughout of
irf. Hero and there
B of the mangroves
* Pazda (the stato
loro, and tho depths
to East, ut half u

itapa, or rather San
oms, so uH to take
t. Tho sea broezo
ut in shore into 12
;hing to fear, as tho
C8 about 6 p.m., and
)otter to anchor ut

!entral America, in
lainous, but a large
arpassed beauty of
Its great deticiency
!t as a great chock
the Biver Fazas to
subject of long dis-
ight to the rich dis-
ss along the Pacitic,
rers falling into tho

Bjullu, id described hy
:ctcd under tbo Bpunish
beyond was u mere col-
md above which moun-
fighting expedition bc-
i'illugo. Twice within
sed by feur of pursuit,
half ritw in the street,
!as covered with lavH."

ISTAPA. 7,1

Tacific are fow and small, tlio largest in the Mlvhilui/al, which passus the
capital, but nonn of thoni can over \w of uho to navigation

Tho famous volcanoes wh' h aro such a distinguiNhinw foaturo of iIuh great
isthmus ore hero seen in thoir greatest majesty, and tliu Volcans do Agua,
14,500 foot, and Fuego, l;),900 foot (noarOld Ciuatoniala), and Atitlun ll,oO(»
foet, have boon very frequently described. Tho present capital is Nueva
Guatemala, tho third city of its name, and was founded in 1770. It stands
at an elevation of 4,400 foot, in a vast and beautiful plain inland of its now
port, San Jose. Cochineal, cofloo, cotton, and indigo, aio tho chief products
for export, but tho first is tho groat staple of tho country. Liko its neigli-
hour, the commerce (jf tho republic is largely indebted to tho various fairs
which aro held in diilerent parts and in difforont seasons.

I8TAPA, or Iztapam, at tho mouth of the Eiver Miehutoyat (or Miclii.
toya), is tho outlet of tho Lake of Amatitlan, and is said to be navigable
from the Falls of San I'edro Martyr, 70 miles from its mouth. It was from
tho first tho port of Ouatemala, but it was closed on January 1st, 1853, when
the port of San Jose, 8 miles to tho westward,, was declared to be the
now port. This change was nautieally urimportaut, for l)oth places were
alike, wild open roadsteads, without a single attribute to give it tho name yf
port. The village now consists of a few grass huts.

Istapu was an open roadstead, without bay, headland, rock, or roof, or
any mark whatever to distinguish it from the adjacent shores. " There is
no light at Eigh , and vessels at sea take tlieir bearings from tho great
volcanoes of tho Antigua, more than CO miles inland. A buoy was anchored
outside of the bi akers with a cable attached, and under tho sheds were
three large launches for embarking and disembarking the cargoes of tho few
vessels which resort to this place. Behind tho sand-bar were a iosy Indian
huts, and Indians nearly naked. Generally the sea is, as its name imports,
pacifae, and tho waves roll calmly to the shore ; but in tho smoothest times
there is a breaker, and to pass this, as a part of tho fixtures of the port, au
anchor IS dropped outside with a buoy attached, and a long cable passing
from the buoy is secured on tho shore.* It was from this place that Alva-

rho discharge nnd loading of vessels lying off Istapa, and other places on this coast,
^^hichisnotcflccted in the easiest manner through such a tremendous surf lashing the

i'iirto"""^^™'""""^'*^"^'''"""'^"''""'"''"'"'"^

This contrivance consists of u cable made fast to a strong post on the shore, tho outer end
:t which ,s secured by an anchor some distance outside tho surf. Within this ,mehor.
v^hich IS marked by a buoy, but still sufficiently clear of the broken water, is another buoy
attached to the wai-p, by means of which tho strong launch employed is ..iezed to it, or
usts It ofl. Ihe launch having been brought to tho warp buoy, the warp is thrown into
mwlocks. one on the bow, tho other on tho stern of tho launch. These are then bolted in
with a pm to prevent their slipping oft; and secured by a stopper, wormed round it near

COAST OF GUATEMALA.

rado fitted out Lis armament, and embarked Vvitli his followers to disput
with rizarro the riches of Peru. — {Siejj/iens.)

Tlio usual anchorage was with the flagstaff boariug between N. by E. am
N. \ E, at half a mile off shore in 14 to 16 fathoms. It is best to anchor t
the East of these bearings, as there the boats in landing have the advantag
of the current which runs to the eastward at from 8-10 to IJ mile per houi

Mountains. — The following remarks are by Mr. H. Thompson, master c
H.M.S. Talbot : — The whole of this country is remarkable for its mountainou
ranges, which may be seen in clear weather from a great distance seaward
many of their lofty peaks and volcanoes serving admirably as beacons t
guide strangers to the various little ports and roadsteads situated on it
coast, which otherwise would not be easily found. Such is the case who;
bound to the roadstead off the village of Istapa. There are visible from th
vicinity of this roadstead, to many miles seaward, four conspicuous nioun
tains, which aro situated as follows : commencing with the easternmost onf
which is the volcano of Pacayo ; next West of this is the water volcano (Vol
can de Agua) of Guatemala ; then the fire volcano (Volcan de Fuego) t
Guatemala, and the last and westernmost is the volcano of Tajumulco. Tli
first and last of these volcanoes aro of a moderate height, and flattened o
scooped out at the top ; but the two middle ones, which are tho volcanoes c
Guatemala, are considerably higher, and much more peaked at their tops
Tho easternmost one of the two last-mentioned is the water volcano ; it hu
but one peak, which at some periods of the year, is slightly snow-cappec
and from the holes and crevices near its summit ice is procured the whol
year round for the luxurious inhabitants of Guatemala. Tho fire volcano
to the westward of the last-mentioned, and appears to have two peake
summits, which open and close according to their bearing. From the roa(
stead it has the appearance of one mountain with a deep notch in its summ:
Tho upper part of this mountain has a whitish appearance, whi^h might
mistaken for snow ; but I am informed that it is caused by the action of fii-
Smoke is constantly emitted from it, and may be seen from the sea in cle
weather. From the anchorage at Istapa tho true bearings of these fo'
mountains are as follow : viz., volcano of Pacayo, N. 22" E. ; water volcai

I'f

tho bolts. 1'hc lioffas, or wntormcn, Avutch the hetivcs of the sua, which, singuliirly i.'noui.
iii'o always licavii'st in thrci'.-i, and when tho heaviest whao apiuoaehes. i,ho pilot gives
signal, tho lashings wliith secure tlie how and stern are slipped, and at the same moment
handa haul in tho waJii ; while runiiing on the tremendous wave she is lu-opellcd with
incnso rapidity, and is usually driven on to the beach with tho succeeding wave, wl;
generally forty or fifty Indians, with tho fall of un " apurrjo,'' or treble-purchase lino, M'h
is hooked to u ring on tho launch's stem-post, and secured to the post, haul her high n
dry with the next wave. It .tomctimcs happens that ihc practieo, or bowman, docs not t
the right sea, and then a larger breaks over her, swamping tho launch, or damaging
cargo, or perhaps losing it.— C I'. S/cintter, Etq,

ijiLmoA

LA.

li Ilia followers to dispute

iug between N. by E. and
,s. It is best to anchor to
mding have the advantage
. 8-10 to 1 J mile per hour.
■. H. Thompson, master of
irkable for its mountainous

a great distance seaward,
g admirably as beacons to
roadsteads situated on its
I. Such is the case whon

There are visible from the
d, four conspicuous moun-
; with the easternmost one,
8 is the water volcano (Vol-
ano (Volcan de Fuego) of
olcano of Tajumulco. The
,te height, and flattened or

which are the volcanoes of
more peaked at their tops,
s the water volcano ; it has
ir, is slightly snow-capped,
it ice is procured the whole
;emala. The fire volcano is
ipears to have two peaked
: bearing. From the road-
, a deep notch in its summit,
ippearance, whi^h might be

eaiised by the action of lii'e.
e seen from the sea in clear
true bearings of these four
0, N. 22" E. ; water volcano

ho sua, which, singularly (?nougli.
^■o apliioiichc'S, ihe pilot given thi-
ipped, and ill Ihu sann; inoliiont all
us wave shi; in in-opdlcd with iui-
with thu succeeding wave, when
'Jo," or treble 'purchasu lino, which
[>d to the post, haul her high and
practko, or bowman, docs not taku
ping tho launch, or damaging the

SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA. 75

of Guatemala, N. 5^ E. ; iire volcano of Guatemala, N. 8^ W. ; and the
volcano of Taju.muioo, N. 28^ W. The thatched roof of a large hut, in the
village of Istapa, which was just visible ov - the high white beach, then boro
N. 17-E., distant about 21 miles, and tho depth of water was about 17.^
fathoms. Tho alove bearings of either of the volcanoes of Guatemala nearly
on will guide a vessel to within a few miles of tho anchorage, and sufficiently
near to make out the thatched roof of tho above-mentioned hut, which is tho
oniy object that marks tho spot, the remaining small huts, which constitute
the .illage, being hidden behind the beach. There is also a ^nall flagstaff
close to the largest hut ; but, unless the flag be flying, it is ditticult to dis-
tinguish It, in consequence of its being mixed up with the trunks of trees
that stand behind it. The entrance to the river is choked up by tho sea-
beach, through which it has not strength enough to force itself. Tho village
of Istapa consisted of about fifteen huts, which afford su Iter to about forty
or fifty inhabitants, who occasionally find employment in discharging mer-
chandise from the very few vessels that call here.

In the bad season I should imagine this a very unsafe plrjo to anchor at,
owing to its being entirely exposed to the ocean swe^i, which, with tho
southerly winds, is exceedingly heavy. Landing is only practicable in tho
hnest weather.

SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA, tho new port of Guatemala, established
January 1, KS53, is at a place previously called Zwpote. There is not tho
shghtest shelter, and there is always a very heavy swell, and rollers occa-
aionally.

Tho coast is veiy clear, running East and West. The anchorage is about
three-quarters of a mile from shore, in 11 to 15 fathoms of water. Tho
swell breaks heavily upon the shore, and out as far as 40 or 50 fathoms
from the beach, making it necessary to use tho girt line ( aiida-rivel) for
landing and leaving. The currents are veiy strong, and vary with each
change of the moon, tho variations sometimes taking place within the short
period of six hoiu-s. From Korainber to February the landing is easy. In
March the ebb and flow of tho tide extends from 90 to 100 yards oyer tho
shore, and at the flood-tide the surf is so heavy as to dash up the beach a
distance of 100 to 120 yards. After March the sea is again calm till July,
and from July to December it is agaiix rough, and the lauding difficult.

An iron svmo-pilcd pier is in course of construction by the government of
(xuatemala, extending from the shore to a point beyond tho breakers, thus
enabling the transportation between ship and shore to bo performed at every
season of the year with facility and safety.

The town of San Jose has a population of between two and three hundred,
•^upphes for vessels are, however, procured with much difficulty here, unless
i)rovi8ion be previously made to obtain them from Escuiatla, u town -10 miles
distant, on the road to tho capital. There are no means of refitting or re-

COAST OF GUATEMALA.

pairing vessels at present. The modes of conycyanco to the interior are by
mules and stages, and are sufficient. Diligences await the arrival of the
Panama railroad company's steamers, for conveying passengers to the capi-
tal, 90 miles distant, and the roads in the dry season are excellent. In the
wet season the roads are bad as far as Escuiatla.

Captain T. Harvey, K.N., who came here in H.M.S. Eamnu, in May,
1859, says that the place is utterly undeserving the name of a port,
although it is the only landing-place for goods for Guatemala. The an-
chorage affords no shelter whatever ; the surf has its full force. The only
way a landing can be effected is by means of a surf-boat, and even this was
capsized four times during our stay. The town of San Jose consists of some
half-dozen grass huts and a flagstaff, which cannot be distinguished beyond
five miles from the shore. The current generally sets to the westward, and
yet a continuation of westerly winds will alter it.

Capt. G. F. Emmons, U.8.S. Ossipee, who came here, in 1S68, says— San
Jo86 is becoming a port of some importance as the only landing-place for
goods on the coast of Guatemala, with this exception, it has no cl-Aim to the
name of a port, being merely an open roadstead. The few griss houses
composing the town are built among the trees on a high dark saidy beach,
a large white storehouse which can be seen at a distance of 6 miles, forms the
only mark on the coast for the port.

The anchorage is opposite this house in from 8 to 13 fathoms sand, distant
about 1, or H mile from the land. A he.-.vy surf breaks on the shore, and
the communication is carried on by means cf hawsers attached to buoys
moored off the beach, but the iron pier, in the course of construction, will
facilitate commerce. A steamer from Panama calls hero once a fortnight.

There is some difficulty in finding the anchorage of San Jos6, the coast
line in the neighbourhood being one unbroken line of beach and trees ; the
best marks, however, on coming from seawoTd, are the remarkable volcanic
peaks of Guatemala, generally visible at lawn. Four of these peaks can be,
seen from the anchorage on the following' bearings :— Tajamulco N.W. ^ N.,
El Fuego N. by W. h W., La Agua North, and Pacaya N. by E. J E.
El Fuego and La Agua being the nearest and most conspicuous, the formoi'
may be known by a deep notch in its summit, Avhilo the latter being brought
to bear North, forms the best guide, till the white storehouse can be dis-
tinguished.

The position of this anchorage has been determined from several autho-
rities to be in lat. 13" 53' N., and long. 90° 45' W.

Of the coast of Guatemala to the W.N.W. of Istapa we have no particular
account. From Malaspina's survey there does not appear to be any port,
and the ocean swell must set on it with more than ordinary force. To tlic
sailor, then, it is unimportant. The republic extends to the boundary of
that of Mexico, once fixed at the Eiver Sintalapa (or Tilapa), a distance of

'."■HHHMI

;he interior aro by
the arrival of the
engers to the capi-
oxcellent. In tho

, Havar.A, in May,
name of a port,
atemala. Tho an-
il force. The only
and even this was
)86 consists of some
jtinguished beyond
the westward, and

COAST OF GUATEMALA. 77

180 miles from Istapa. It forms the southern side of tho province If
t:^nC^ "" '-'- Po-on Of the extensive bayMTth!

Th^Pronnce of Milie„,e, is bounded on the West by the Mexican pro
vmoe Soeonu^co, and extends along the Pacific 32 leagues. It was mTh n^."

Zn r '~nr '^ '"^"'^^' ^'^^- ^^' ^"■"' ° - --bu lesrso
allt rr.- ?' '""""" '^ ^''^'''^ ^y ^•-^^-'^ "vers ; of thoso the
Hamala wh.ch discharges itself into tho sea, under the nam of the Xica
lapa, :s the most important. It is fertile from its situation, and abundance
of water ; the chief article of commerce is cocoa, so excellent in qua y as to
be preferred by many to that of Soconusco. ^ ^

in 1S68, says— San
f landing-place for
has no cl'xim to the
9 few griss houses
, dark saidy beach,
af 6 miles; forms the

ithoms sand, distant
8 on the shore, and

attached to buoys
jf construction, will
onco a fortnight.

San Jos6, tho coast
each and trees ; tho
remarkable volcanic
f these peaks can be,
ijamulco N.W. ^ N.,
saya N. by E. \ E.
jpicuous, the former
latter being brought
irehouso can be dis-

from several autho-

pe have no particular
ipear to be any port,
inary force. To tlic
i to the boundary of
]ilapa), a distance of

CHAPTER II.

THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, BETWEEN TEHUAN-
TEPEC AND MAZATLAN.

The coast described in the present chapter may be said to be that of the
South extreme of the North American continent, and is the southern sea.
board of the provinces of Chiapa, Onxaca, Puebla, Mexico, Valladolid, and
Guadalajara, portions of the Mexican repubhc.

Our geographical knowledge of the republic, generally, is very incomplete
and unsatisfactory. On tho Pacific shores, if the commercial importance of
its few ports were at all commensurate with the natural riches of the dis-
tricts of which they might be the outlets, navigators would be much embar-
rassed by the deficiency of our charts and descriptions. But as few points
ax-e visited for any purposes of trade, we have tolerably accurate and recent
descriptions of those ports ; and in the ensuing pages it is hoped that there
will be found ample notices to allow the ship-master to approach them with
confidence and safety.

Mexico, as is well known, has been the scene of constant intestine warfare
and change for many years past ; and to this evil must be added the very
great ignorance of the great mass of the people— a startling fact in a republic,
the basis of whose safety is the capacity of the people for an intellectual self-
government.

When Nunez de Balboa tii'st landed on its shores (in the Mexican Gulf),
Montezuma I. wrs emperor, and had extended the Aztec dominions to the
Pacific. The conquest of his kingdom by Cortes is well known, and Mexico
became a vice-royalty to Spain ; and, w^ith powers almost as absolute as that
of the parent monarchy, Mexico was scarcely known to Europe, except by
its issue of the precious metals. When Charles VI. of Spain abdicated in
1808, the royal authority here received a shock from which it never recovered;
for an open insurrection broke out in 1810, and a national congress assem-
bled in 1813, one of the earliest acts of which was a declaration of the in-

N TEHUAN-

d to bfi that of the
I the southern sea«
CO, Valladolid, and

I is very incomplete
rcial importance of
I riches of the dis-
Id be much embar-
But as few points
xccurate and recent
is hoped that there
pproach them with

nt intestine warfare
be added the very
ng fact iu a republic,
an intellectual self-

the Mexican Gulf),
)c dominions to the
known, and Mexico
t as absolute as that
Europe, except by
Spain abdicated in
h it never recovered ;
oal congress assem-
iclaration of the in-

MEXICO.

dependence of Mexico. Subsequently, the history is one of a sanguinary
guerilla warfare, until, in 1821, Iturbide was made emperor, under the
title of Augustine I. He soon abdicated and retired, but returning, he was
apprehended and executed. The government was then modelled on a similar
constitution to that of the United States ; but the original party divisions
remained, though under different names. The campaign which led to the
annexation uf Upper California to the United States in 1847 led to no in-
ternal amelioration, and the first hopes of the world were defeated, when
the state was destroyed as an empire by the death of the heroic Maximilian,
To these disturbances, and consequent insecurity of property, must be attri-
buted the embarrassments of commercial enterprise, the enactments of the
law, and the long train of evils which lie so heavy on this fine country, and
its otherwise, in many respects, good population.

The country of Mexico, especially that part on the Pacific, is divided by
tlie natives into tierras calientes, or hot regions ; the tierras tempMas, or tem-
perate reg. >ns ; and the tierras frias, or cold regions ; the first including
those beneath the elevation of 2,000 feet ; the latter tract occupies the most
important part of Mexico, and, in fact, is that vast plateau on which Mexico
stands. On the low lands of the coasts the heat, during part of the year, is
insupportable, even by the natives, and thus the town of San Bias becomes
annuallj' depopulated for a season.

The Cordillera or mountain chain, which, in the southern Andes, is a well-
marked line of lofty ranges, and less distinctly so in the North and through-
out Guatemala, in Mexico divides to two somewhat indistinct branches, fol-
lowing either coast. That to the South is irregular, and in some parts but
little known. At the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec it is about 60 miles
off the coast, on an average, but leaves many valleys of slight elevation be-
tween the detached portions of it. To the mariner most of them are unim-
portant, unless wo mention the volcano of Colima, which becomes an excel-
lent landmark for that portion of the coast. Most of the peaks are volcanic,
some in activity ; and the usual volcanic j)henomeua of eruptions and earth-
•luakes are frequent, the latter particularly so ; and many severe visitations
of this sort are upon record. At Acapulco this becomes a serious bar to its
permanent prosperity.

Of our hydrographicul knowledge of the Pacific coast a word may be
said. With some detached portions we am intimately acquainted, through
the excellent surveys made in 1837-8, by Sir Edward Belcher, of the English
navy, when on this coast in H.M.P Sulphur. These points of Guatalco,
Acapulco, San Bias, Chamatla, and Mazntlan, will be found described hero-
after. In the voyage of the French frigate Venm, commanded by Du Petit
Thouars, who was o the coast at the same time with Sir Edward Belcher,
we find some information ; and to M. Tessan, his hydrographical engineer,
we owe some of the graphic information we possess. By Captain (afterwards

f Ji^ B ? " v;'. ' >?Miu^iLL ' i.iW i .WM4W >fl^ ' ^ • y.- 'r"

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

Eear- Admiral) Boechey, who was here in H.M.8. Blossom, the nautical world
is informed of the exact nature of some of the islands and ports near the
Gulf of California.

For the remainder of the coast, the 'Ipanish charts of the Madrid Hydro-
graphic Office furnish the details, in 1790 the Spanish Government do-
gpatched an expedition, under Don Alexandre Malespina, for the exploration
of these shores, a task which wo must suppose was completely performed ;
but the publication of his journal, which was looked for by the learned of
Europe at that period, was frustrated by Malespina, a little time after his
return to Cadiz, being arrested by order of government, and thrown into the
prison of Buen Eetiro, and afterwards transferred to one of the strong castles
of Coruna. In this captivity El Padro Gil, a man of great learning and
merit, also shared, and all papers and drawings belonging to, and collected
by, the expedition, were seized and suppressed by the government. Of the
cause of this little is known. The disturbed state of Spain, in reference to
her overgrown and ill-attached colonies, might have led to suspicions against
Malespina when in the country. Suffice it to say, that the charts, resulting
from the survey, were subsequently published, as drawn up by Don Felipe
Bauzd, F.E.S., from his observations while accompanying the expedition.

Climate.— The following outline' of the climate, weather, 'c, by Commo-
do -9 C. B. Hamilton, will be found useful.

The West Coast of Mexico is considered highly dangerous in the bad
season, namely, from June to 5th of November, and all the vessels obliged
to remain in the neighbourhood lie up either in the secure harbour of
Guaymas or at PichiUque, in the bay of La Paz, both in the Gulf of
California.

The hun'icanes that occasionally visit this coast ar' so much dreaded, that
in the months of July, August, September, and October, the ports are
deserted, and trade ceases.

I believe the Frolic is the first vessel of any nation, whether man-of-war
or merchant ship, that ever remained the whole bad season on the coast, and
that off the two most dangerous ports, namely, San Bias and Mazatlan. I
shall, therefore, give all the information I can relative to the bad season.

The hurricane so much dreaded on this cc/ast is called the Cordonazo de
San Francisco, a name given by the Spaniards, on account of the hurricane
prevailing about the time of San Francisco's day, the 4th of October ; the
word cordonazo signifying a heavy lash with a rope or whip ; but, from my
own experience, and all I can learn, these cordonazos may be expected any
time from the middle of June to the 5th of November. The worst ones that
have been experienced of late years have occurred on the 1st of November,
although the weather usually clears up about the 20th of October, and some-
times even sooner ; and as soon as the weather does begin to clear up, a
ship may, with common precautions, venture into the anchorages again, for

,Ai,^.M.^

MEXICO,

(, the nautical world
and porta near the

the Madrid Hydro -
sh Government do.
, for the exploration
ipletely performed ;
)r by the learned of
little time after his
[ind thrown into the
of the strong castles
great learning and
ing to, and collected
overnment. Of the
lain, in reference to
to suspicions against
;he charts, resulting
1 up by Don Felipe
g the expedition,
ler, "c, by Commo-

lugerous in the bad
I the vessels obliged
» secure harbour of
loth in the Gulf of

much dreaded, that
tober, the ports are

whether man-of-war
son on the coast, and
as and Mazatlan. I
the bad season,
ed the Cordonazo de
)unt of the hurricane

4th of October ; the
whip ; but, from my
may be expected any

The worst ones that
he Ist of November,
)f October, and some-
begin to clear up, a
.nchorages again, for

this reason, the weather will give ample warning of a coming hurricane ;
whereas, in the previous four months, before the weather has cleared up, tho
circumstance that adds to the dangers of this coast is, that owing to tho
threatening appearance of the sky every evening, and tho violent thunder
storms and squalls at night, accompanied by heavy rain and lightning, tho
wind veering about, you are at first led to believe that the hurricane is
coming every night, and latterly you see it is utterly hopeless to foresee
the coming of it, as every night appearances were as bad as they could be ;
the barometer here being of little or no use, and a tremendous sea occasion-
ally setting in. Thus the remaining off this coast during tho hurricane
season will cause great anxiety.

The squalls and gales usually commence about S.E., and quickly fly
round to the southward and S.W. ; you have generally time to get to sea
when it commences at S.E. ; but, as I have before shown, you must go to sea
every night, if you can, if you would be free from the dangers of the cordo-
nazos coming on. But a tremendous swell frequently sets in whilst tho
weather is in this threatening state, and the wind still light, which makes it
impossible to get out. Moreover, if our boats happened to be out, and on
shore when the swell came, it was impossible to hoist them in, and for this
reason we have frequently been oblige*lo send our boats from the ship,
with their crews, to be hauled up on shore, and remain there until the swell
went down, that I might be ready to slip and go to sea.

It appears that the cordonazos come on an average once in 6 or 8 years,
and we experienced none duiing our stay, although we had a gale on tho
night of the 21st of September. I was fortunately under weigh, and had
plenty of room when it came on, having stood out to sea on the evening of
the 19th, on account of the weather being bad, and fearing the full of the
moon on the 20th.

It commenced about 9'' 20" p.m. from the S.E., flying round to S.W.,
heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to
close-reefed main-topsail, and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and oblig-
ing us to batten down. The squalls come on very suddenly, the prevailing
winds being in the bad season S.E. to S. and S.W., and the heavy swell
usually before and after the full and change of the moon. The swell is such
as is seen in the Bay of Biscay in a heavy gale, and, unfortunately, usually
sets into the bays before the wind comes.

I therefore think, that a ship caught at anchor off San Bias, or Mazatlan,
by a cordonazo, would have small chance of escape, especially off the former,
as she would either go on shore or go down at her anchors ; to slip and stand
out the instant it commences from S.E. is her best course.

The range of the thermometer for June was 77' to 86° ; July, 80° to 87° ;
August, 81° to 89° : September, 83° to 92° ; October, 83° to 90°. The
barometer appeared to be of little service, usually remaining 30 inches ;
North Pacific. a

■*f fff -i-i ' W,J ' - | >WH'^*. ' L^Ki '-iyw-' *y

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

seldom varying above a tenth, except during a heavy squall, when it rose
considerahlij.

After the 4th of November the coasting and other vessels again make their
appearance on the West coast of Mexico.

San Bias is very sickly during the bad season. Guaymas is healthy,
although the thermometer stands there at the astonishing height of 106° in
July, August, [and September; and, owing to the extremo dryness of the
atmosphere, ships receive mv.ch injury by tho wood opening. Furniture,
apparently well seasoned, there cracks and falls to pieces.

On this coast there are some immense fish, of the ray species. I caught
two of them, and with difficulty hoisted one on board; it measured 19 feet
in breadth across tho back, the mouth was 3 feet 5 inches wide, and tho
flesh was 3 feet inches in depth in the centre. I had no means of ascer-
taining the weight, but found I could not lift it with the yard tackles and 60
men, it requiring 130 men with the heaviest purchases in the ship to hoist it
in. These fish are common on the West coast of Mexico and Gulf of Cali-
fornia, where they are more dreaded by the pearl divers than sharks or any
other fish.

Of tho eastern part of the Gulf of Tehuantepec we know very little more than
is shown in tho chart from Malaspina's survey. The country is all volcanic
inland, and, from tho proximity of the mountains to the sea, there is no
stream of sufficient strength to penetrate across the beach.

The GULF of TEHUANTEPEC, an inexpressive term, is given to the
slender bay which exterls for about 180 miles westward from the frontier of
Guatemala, and is derived from the unimportant town which -stands a few
miles inland at its head.

The American Isthmus is about 120 miles in breadth from the Gidf of
Campeche on the Atlantic side, and has received much attention from its
Bui)posed fitness for an inter-oceanic canal, as the country seems to be a
remarkable depression of the Mexican plain.

Surveys were made of the Isthmus by General Don Juan de Orbegoso and
Don Tadeo Ortiz in 1825, and Don Jose Garay and Signer Gaetano Moro in
1842-43, for the same purpose, of forming a communication between the
Pacific and tho Bay of Campeche, by means of a canal and the rivers falling
into the lagoon of Tehuantepec, and the Eiver Goazacoalcos, which runs into
the Gulf of Campeche.

These surveys were not satisfactory, and it was accurately measured with
the view of establishing a railway, by a scientific commission under General
J. G. Barnard, U.S. Engineers, in 1850-1, by which its unfitness for a canal
was demonstrated.

Tho whole shore of Tehuantepec is subject to the visitation of terrific hur-
ricanes (which take their name from the isthmus), sweeping with resistless

Bquall, wlien it rose
sels again make their

Juaymas is lioalthy,
ng height of 106° in
remo dryness of the
•pening. Furniture,

y species. I cought
it measured 19 foet

iches wide, and the
no means of ascer-
yard tackles and 60

a the ship to hoist it

and Gulf of Cali-

1 than sharks or any

'ery little more than

mtry is all volcanic

;ho sea, there is no

na, is given to the

. from the frontier of

which -stands a few

h from the Gulf of
h attention from its
.ntry seems to be a

an de Orbegoso and
or Gaetano Moro in
cation between the
id the rivers falling
20S, which runs into

itely measured with
ision under General
unfitness for a canal

ition of terrific hur-
sping with resistless

VENTOSA BAY. gS

fury along tliis inhospitable coast, which docs not afford a harbour of refiigo
ovon for the smallest class of seagoing vossols.

Sinco the end of the sixteenth century Tohuantopoc has been but vory
httlo frequented; the sea retires daily from its shores, and the anchorage
deteriorates every year. The sand brought by tiio Chimalapa incroa.s.^s tiio
Iieight and extent of the sandy bars lying at the exit of the channel from tlio
first lagoon into the second, and from this into the sea.

Between the base of tho Cordillera and the ocean is a place which sepa-
rates them from the lagoons, which, like an immense bay, communicates
with the Pacific.

This llano, or plain, consists of a shifting soil, formed by tho detritus of
the slate composing the adjacent hills, a species of rock, which appears from
time to time in crossing it towards the lakes, and oven on tho coasts, where
it forms the islands and capes.

Prom the Cordillera to the lagoons the plain occupies a space of about G
leagues. Those of the lagoons most inland may be about 4 leagues broad ;
and from its mouth, called the JIarra de Santa Teresa, to the point whoro tho
two discharge themselves into the ocean, called tho Jioca Barra, may bo n
leagues. This second bay, or inner lagoon, extends to tho westward in tho
form of a marshy lake, to the extent of 9 leagues, undei- tho namo of Tilcma;
and to the East, to the Barra de Tenola (Tomla), to about 30 leagues.

There is but little depth in either of these; that outside has not moro
than 14 feet in the centre, in the Hno of tho canoe navigation. The sandy
tongue of land dividing tho interior lagoon of the Tiloma Marsh and that
dividing this from the ocean, is formed by the waters brought down by tlio
rivers coming from the Sierra Madro, particularly the Chicapa and tho
Juchitan.

_ Boca Barra, as above said, is the outlet of the extensive lakes which lio
just within the line of sandy beach at the head of the Gulf of Tohuantopoc,
lat. about. 16° 12', long. 94» 45', and, according to Mr. Trastour's survey, ex-
tend for 12 miles xo the eastward, and for 22 miles to the westward of tliis
entrance, varying from 3 to 11 miles in breadth. The Boca Barra is 500 ft.
wide, with a least depth of 7 to 10 feet, but the current sots out of it with
great velocity. Mr. Trastour, on Nov. 9th, 1860, at llf , found it to run
out at the rate of 7J miles an hour.

VENTOSA BAY.— TheBayofLaVentosa, the harbour of Tehuantopoc,
is in lat. 16° 11' N. and long. 95° 8' W.

Its S.W. limit is formed by the Cerro Mono, an isolated rock of an oblong
shape, rounded at the summit, about 160 feet high and 2,600 in circum-
ference ; and a little more to the South by a pointed rock, separated from
the former by an interval fiUed in with sand, and forming an angular pro-
jection into tho sea called the Morro Point. This point is the eastern oxtre-

'^^|U,tJJJ^l tI l .,JM■'^lJ^aJ l ..J,»;.J^^, . vuuJ>^^"^!^^v.^J4U^lM^,Ju ■ ww^i»J^J^^lW ' '"

84 WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

rrity of a line of rocky hills which forma the coast for a mile to the west-
ward, and is the termination of a spur from the Cordillera of Oaxaca.

To tho northward of the Cerro Morro is the sandy beach, which trends
first to the northward and then eastward, tho seaward limits of an extensive
plain, scarcely broken by the isolated hillocks of Huazoatlan. This beach is
cut by sandy and shallow lagoons, having several outlets into the sea, and
by tlio bod of tho Tehuantepec Biver. At the time of tho periodical over-
flowing this current flows over a low country before reaching the ocean,
which it does by its mouth, a milo to the N.N.E. of the Mono.

It appears to have good holding ground, the depth being 6 to 9 fathoms,
sandy clay bottom. The greatest difi'erence in the level of tho water ob-
served was 6i feet. Ships ride sheltered under the Morro.

Tho N.N.E. wind commences in the middle of October, and ceases early in
April. It is at its height, and blows without interruption in November, but
after this it is not so regular, and gradually ceases altogether.

If the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi (inO San Miguel Chimalapa,
about 45 miles distant to the North and N.E., but visible from sea, are
hidden by slate-coloured vapour at sundown, the northers will blow next
day. If these mists are seen at the former hour on the southern horizon,
tho S.8.W. wind will blow on the following day.

Tho environs were carefully surveyed, under the direction of Major Bar-
nard, in December, 1860, by Mr. P. E. Trastour, C.E., as a terminus for the
Tehuantepec Eailway, which was proposed to cross the isthmus from the
upper course of the Goatzacoalcos Eiver at Minatitlan. This river falls into
tho Gulf of Mexico, and tho railway was proposed to terminate on the Pacific
to tho north-eastward of the Morro, from which a pier was proposed to be
run out for one-sixth of a mile into 6i fathoms.

Salina Cruz Bay lies to the westward of the hills extending from the
Morro of La Ventosa. From the termination of that group of high lands
the sandy beach of Salina Cruz trends to W. by N. for about H mile, and
bending to tho southward terminates at Salina Cruz Point, a rocky projection
ofif which are several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent
of a cable's length, but the water is deep, 8 and 9 fathoms, just outside of
them. In the bay the depth increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8
and 10 fathoms at 3 cables' lengths from the sandy beach. At a quarter of
a mile North of the point, at the foot of the high ground, is a spring.

Salina del Marques lies to the westward of Salina Cruz, and is similarly
formed, about 2^ miles in extent, with lagoons at the back of the strand.

The town of TKnu.VNTEPEC is about 11 miles in direct distance northward
from the beach of these bays. It has a population of about 13,000, and has
several churches and a modern college.

The coast beyond this is very imperfectly represented, and the names of
places aro not recognizable on Bauza's chart. We have the following

S' .!.lJl!.^! '?g ^- ' . ' - J-l-i X

El mile to the west-

i of Oaxaca.

3ach, which trends

lits of an extensive

ilan. This beach is

;8 into the soa, and

ho periodical over-

eaching the ocean,

[ono.

)ing 6 to 9 fathoms,

el of tho water ob-

and ceases early in
n in November, but
>ther.

Miguel Chimalapa,
isible from sea, are
thers will blow next
e southern horizon,

iction of Major Bar-
is a terminus for the
,e isthmus from the
This river falls into
ninate on the Pacific
was proposed to bo

extending irom the
jroup of high lands
f about \i mile, and
it, a rocky projection
water, to the extent
oms, just outside of
near the shore to 8
.ch. At a quarter of
a, is a spring.
>uz, and is similarly
ack of the strand.
t distance northward
bout 13,000, and has

id, and the names of
1 have the following

THE MORRO AYUCA. m

ftorounts of two landing-places between Salinas and Guntulco, from tho
Nautical Magazine, as related by Captain Peter Masters.

The Bay of Bamba does not appear on tho chart. Tho following doscrip-
tion is by Captain Musters -.—Punta de Zipgeua is in lat. 10° 1' N., long. !)5°
28' 30" W. (?) From this point to the Morro de Ystapa tho coast runs about
W.N.W. by compass. Between these points are several bluff headlands.
Thoy do not project far out from the general lino of coast, and afford no
shelter. Punta do Zipegua forms the eastern part of what is called tho Bay
of Bamba, and is a very remarkable headland. From the westward it
shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 400 feet high. It pro-
jects out from the western lino of coast nearly a mile, and forms a kind of
double head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill, Avith
the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone. It is quito bare of vegetation.
Further inland, between 1 and 2 miles, tho ground rises higher in small
hummocks. A few of them are quite bare, and others have a small quantity
of stunted trees and bushes scattered over them. The head which forms the
West side of tho Bay of Bamba is not so high, nor does it rise so suddenly
from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It is also covered with bushes. Tho
eastern side of Punta do Zipegua is covered with bushes and stunted trees ;
the sand only showiug through the soil in very few places. When abreast
of it, and off shore from 2 to 8 miles, the current was nmning to windward,
W.S.W., from 2J to 3 miles per hour. About N.E., by compass, from the
Punta de Zipegua, and distant from 4 to 5 miles, is a high reef of rocks,
called Piedra de Zipegua, or Machaguista, in the chart. Island of Eschevau.
Its greatest elevation is from 60 to 70 feet ; its length is about a third of a
mile, running in an E.S.E. and W.N.'W. direction. It is said there aro no
dangers near it but what can be seen. Between it and the main, from
which it is about 4 miles distant, in a N.W. direction, is good anchorage ;
the best is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef;
they are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general lino of
coast from Punta de Zipegua toward Tehuantepeo runs about N.E. by N.,
easterly.

The beach, or Plaiju de Bamha, is about 5 miles long, and must bo very
bad to land on with a fresh sea-breeze. There was more surf on it when wo
landed than was very agreeable. The boat was half filled, although the
wind was blowing along the coast.

The Morro Ayuca, or Ayuta, de Santiago de Ystapa, according to Masters.
Sir Edward Belcher places it in lat. 15° 51' 56" N., long. 95° 43' 56" \V.,
considerably to the southward of the Spanish chart. It is a bold cliffy point,
surrounded by a reef, which has 3 and 4 fathoms close to it, and extending
on the northern side to about IJ cable's length, some of the rocks being
G visible. The bay, about IJ mile in extent, has a low sandy shore,

i i

WEST COAST OF JIEXTCO.

iiinl vcHsols nmy anchor in fi or 7 fiitlioinn, (ino sand, at throo-qunrtovH of a
mill) oil', 1)Ut only witli nortliorly windH.

Noiir tlio Morri) is tho ontranco of the smnll rivor of Ayutn, tlio stronni
Unit runs by lliiumiliilu (horoafter alludoil to) and Ystapa. There is n bur
runH across tho ontranco to it. The canocH land on tho boach in pref(>ronco
to going ovor it, as this is attended with dangor.

A fow mih'3 to tho westward is the ^hrro ik la Laguna, near which is a
Inrf^o liik(>, from which tho headhmd takes its name.

Tho Bay of Rosario.— This name is not on tlio chart, but tlio following
dcHcription, and directions for it are by Captain Masters : —

Tho AVost sido of tho Day of Kosario is forraod by tho Morro do las Salinas
do KoHarii), and is in lat. 15° 50' 25" N., long. 90" 2' W., by four sets of
lunar.s taken East and West of tho moon. It projects about a milo beyond
tho liao of coast. On tho western sido is a beach 4 or 5 miles in length to
tho next head. When abreast of Morro do las Salinas it appears like an
iwlund with (wo largo rotkd abroast of its eastern and western part ; but tho
whole is conno( 'od to tho main. What appears to bo tho eastern rock, Ih a
broken rocky head, about 160 feet high. Tho western is about half the
elevation. Uoth those heads terminate with a broken cliff; tho tops of them
are bare, and of greyish colour ; the lower part is quite black, caused by tlio
sea washiii'^ against thorn. Between those heads is a small sandy bay, which
is at tlio foot of tho Morro, and rises gradually from tho boach to tho top of
tho hill, and is about 180 to 200 feet high. It has a low stiaggling bushes
on it, but its gene ' appeoranco is very barren. The bea' h of Eosario is
10 miles long from - " 'To las Salinas to ]\Iorro do la Laguna Grande,
which is its eastern extromuj . '*bout half tho distance between tho Morros
is a rock on tho beach, about 40 feet aigh, and nearly tho samo diamotor ; at
spring tides tho water flows round it.

During tho timo of our lying in the Bay of Eosario, which was from tho
12th of February to tho Ist of April, wo had three smart northei's. These
camo on at tho full and change of tho axocn. At this time the surf runs very
heavy on the boach. Our boat w^as capsized sevoral times whilst we lay
hero, in landing and coming off. Al ti'ios tho sea broke very heavUy in all
parts of the bay, that is, on tho beach. I was caught on shore, a fow days
after arriving here, during tho first norther, which came on suddenly with a
parching hot wind. A cross, confused sea hove in from tho South and N.E.
Tho wind must Imvo blown strong out in the gulf, from the samo direction,
and though it blow very heavily for three days, with the wind at times to
tho westward of North, tho sea kept up until some timo after tho norther
had ceased blowing. This is not generally tho case, for a strong norther
(and in particular if it veers to N.N.W.) beats the sea down, at which timo
landing is attended with little or no risk, which was tho case when wo had
tho last two northers. I was informed (and judging from appearancs I think

oo-quartoi'H of a

yuin, tlio btronin

Thero in n bur

icli in prof(>ronco

nenr Mliich is a

Lit tlio following

TO do Ins Siilinns
by four sots of
t a niilo beyond
ilo8 in length to
uiipoara liko an
■n purt ; but tbo
istorn rock, in n
8 about half tlio
tho tops of thorn
ik, caused by tlio
landy bay, which
ach to the top of
haggling bushes
.'.h of Eosario is
Laguna Grande,
woon tb« Morros
imo diameter; at

loll was from tho
aorthei's. These
he surf runs very
)8 whilst we lay
py heavily in all
(lore, a few days
suddenly with a
South and N.E.
I same direction,
wind at times to
ifter tho norther
a strong norther
n, at which time
so when wo had
ipearancs I think

DAY OF nOSAKTO. ^

rorrootly) that very often when tho wind is Noith or N.N.W.. doso in
shoro, it is N.E. in tho offing, which makos it impossihl** t„ Innd.m tho coast.
I romarkod whilst lying her., at tho full and clmng.. oi iho mo,)„. when no
i.orthor was blowing, that although tlio surf ran so higli that no boat could
land, tho vessel lay without any motion. Wo wero moored less than .'JOO
fathoms from tho shore. Tho sur*" appeared not to bo caused by a swell
rolling in, and agitating tho sea at tho .-.uriaco, but to riso from below and
without any apparent cause, as wo had light winds and lino weather tho
most of tho time wo lay hero. On another occasion I was caught on slioro
with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to tho ship, tho
boat was capsi/od and stove. It was then, and hid boon for a week pro-
vious, nearly a calm. The heavy ground swell invariably liovo in from tho
S.S.W. Wo fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our
people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at dif-
ferent times, wlio wore saved from being drowned by a mero chance.

In addition to what has already been said about this part of tho roast it
can bo known by tho low land at t^.c back of tho beach of Rosari... This
runs in from 1 to 2J leagues before there is much riso in it, and is thickly
covered with trees. From North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2
leagues from tho shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small
barren hillocks. From our anchorage where wo loaded at, tho following
bearings wero taken, lying in 2J fathoms water, sandy bottom. There aro
two larger patches of a whitish appearance, tho farthest rango of the Cor-
dilleras, tho eastern is ^,lso tho lowest, and bore N. 591° W. Tho appear-
anco cannot bo seen, desa from a littlo to tho westward of Morro do las
Salinas. This has every appearance of being a waterfall, and rises from th
other po^ch in a N.W direction at about an angle of 45°. It issues from a
smaU valley in the Cerro del Chonga. The highest point of this range haa
but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. Tho waterfall in-
clines towards tho South, and can bo seen for several hundred feet descend-
ing before it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Corro do Zadan boro
N. 89° W., and tho oxtreme bluff of Morro do las Salinas, S. 3G° W., SJ
miles. The eastern point well within tho bearings, and Punta de la Laguna
arando, N. 71° E. 6 to 7 miles, and rock on tho beach (already mentioned as
40 feet high), N. 65° E., and tho galena or shed, under which the cargo was
piled, N. 26° W. half a mile; bearings by compass.

At the western part of the bay are four palm trees close to tho beach. Tho
distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half a mile, and between
these trees and the Morro is a larger cluster of palms. Between those two
clusters is at all times the best placo to land, as a boat can beach hero with
comparative safety, when at every other part of the bay tho sea runs very
heavy. At tho neaps wo found the place quite smooth, with tho exception

mstm'J^s'-ihvii^f.i- 1 '

»ywgg>ff v.': '4 taj£Mcg»iJ fr y

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

of a sea heaving in at about every 10 or 15 minutes ; but it causes no risk to
a boat provided she is kept end on.

At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway loads
to cross the Morro de Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the cliflf of a rock, is a
small spring of excellent water. Wo always found it clear and cool, even at
noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with
dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity
that could be filled in a day did n^^t exceed 30 gallons, and after having
landed all our water-casks we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of
surf, and land them at the galena abreast the ship. We filled our water at
a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited ; it being
the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing, we did not
complete our stock.

A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here, either
with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made ; and, as
water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one, and cutting the
other, should be immediately commenced on their arrival by some of the
ere'?'. It is useless to employ Indians to work for the ship (that is, on shore),
the greatest part of them will neither bo led nor driven. On board they
answer better (that is, a few of them) to haul the wood about in the hold.
I found the promises of Indians, and, as they called themselves, "^ente de-
cente y cmltsado," on a par.

From the Bay of Eosario to the Island of Tangolatangola there are several
small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast,
with the exception of Moito de las Salinas de Eosario. Most of them have
a steep cliflf facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches between them ; at the
back of which are scattered a few small trees and bushes, the land rising in
very iiTegular shaped hills toward the Cordilleras. Abreast of the beaches,
between the heads, tho anchorage is quite clear, and when in from 9 to 12
fathoms water the distance oflf shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom.

The Island of Tangolatangola is not shown on the charts. It is, however,
thus mentioned by Dampier.

" At the small high island of Tangola there is good anchorage. The ioland
is indififerently well furnished with wood and water, and lies about a league
from the shore. The main against the island is pretty high champion sa-
vannah land, by the sea ; but 2 or 3 leagues within the laud it is higher, and
very woody."

Capt. Masters describes it thus :— *' The Island Tangolatai gola is E.N.E.
3 miles from Guatulco, and is separated from tae main by a channel a
quarter of a mile wide. This makes from the westward as a part of the
main land ; the outer part of it is quite bluflF, or rather a cliff of a brownish
stone, tho strata of which is horizontal, and has the same geological appear-
ance as the land on the main nearest it to the N.E., and of the same height,

; ; but it causes no risk to

re a small pathway loads
in the cliflf of a rock, is a
. it clear and cool, even at
ock of water from it with
Lg about it. The quantity
gallons, and after having
, through a great deal of
I. We filled our water at
was very limited ; it being
f our sailing, we did not

I'hen he comes here, either

* by whom made ; and, as
^ the one, and cutting the
ir arrival by some of the
he ship (that is, on shore),

• driven. On board they
wood about in the hold.

led themselves, "^ente de-

latangola there are several
1 the general line of coast,
ario. Most of them have
es between them ; at the
bushes, the land rising in
Abreast of the beaches,
and when in from 9 to 12
e, with sandy bottom,
le charts. It is, however,

)od anchorage. The ioland
ir, and lies about a league
pretty high champion sa-
i the laud it is higher, and

Tangolatai gola is E.N.E.
tae main by a channel a
westward as a part of the
rather a cliff of a brownish
le same geological appear-
',., and of the same height,

POET GLATULCO. 89

namely, about 150 foet. Within the island, and round the western side, is
the entrance of the Bay of Tangolatangola ; it runs in about N.E. 2 miles.
At the bottom of the bay is a fine sandy beach ; tho anchorage is said to be
very good in it, but not oqual to Guatulco ; its entrance is more than a mile
across, and continues nearly the same to the bottom."

The Hiver Capalita, both according to Dampier and Malaspina'.s chart,
must fall into the sea hereabouts. Dampier says that it is rapid and deep
near its mouth.

PORT GUATinCO lies next along the coast, and is a very secure har-
hour. According to Sir Edward Belcher'? survey of it in 1838, some islets
that lie off its mouth are in lat. 15" 44' 25", and long. 96° 10' W. Dampier's
clear and graphic account of it is as follows :-" Guatulco is one of the best
ports in all this kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the moutli of the
harbour, on the East side, there is a little island close by the shore ; and on
the West side, half a mile from the mouth of the harbour, there is a great
hollow rock, which, by the continual working of the sea in and out, makes a
great noise, wliich may be heard a great way. Every surge that comes in
forceth the water out of a little hole on its top, as out of a pipe, from whence
It flies out just like the blowing of a whale; to which the Spaniards also
liken it. They call this rock and spout ' the buffadore ' {hu/adero, Spanish, a
roarer), upon what account I know not. Even in the calmest seasons tho
sea beats in them, making the water spout at tho hole, so that this is
always a good mark to find the harbour by.* This is pJso described by Mr.
Masters.

" The harbour runs in N.W., but the West side of the harbour is best to
ride in for small ships, for there you may ride land-locked, whereas any-
whore else you are open to the S.W. winds, which often blow here. There
is good clean ground anywhere, and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6
fathoms r it is bounded by a smooth, sandy shore, very good to land at, and
at tlio bottom of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water running
into the soa. Here formerly stoo-' a small Spanish town, or village, which
was taken by Sir Francis Drake ; but now there is nothing remaining of it

• This description will also exactly apply to another of these singular phenomena, the
SoHffleur (Fronch, blower), at the South point of tho Jlauritius. Hero tho water is driven
up with cnonnous force to tho height of 120 to HO feet above tho waves, and may bo heard
u long distance. They are also seen too, at times, around the bases of icebergS, and there
was one, tho Devil's Trumpet, on the coast of Cornwall. Other instances, loss striking,
might bo adduced of these singularities, which aro well worthy of a s^viman's attention,'
showing, as they do, tho power the waves exert, which, to raise such a column of water as
above mentioned, must be from 3 to 5 tons per square foot.

«. » ii m'WU » aa.-J a»;.i«aj ,,.

«-i>g.u' ma, i vjMr M a,«»,:t , «rt rmmK il!!><1i > i. wt nr

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

bosidos a little chapel standing among the trees, about 200 paces from the

Boa."

Tlio following romarkf?, by Captain Masters, will complete tlio description ;
— Santa Cruz, Port of Aguatulco {Gttatuko), is vei'y difficult to make ; it i«
situated in a small bay about half a mile wide at its entrance, and runs in to
the northward upwards of one mile and a half. At the bottom of the bay is
a sandy beach ; on its eastern part two huts are built, which cannot bo soon
unless close in-shore. E.S.E. three-quarters of a mile from the eastern point
which forms the bay, is the Piedra Blnnca. This is a reef of rocks extending
East and West about a quarter of a mile. The western part of the reef is
nearly 40 feet high ; for about one-third of its length it is of the same eleva-
tion ; the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, in places level with
the water. When abreast of it and off shore a few miles, it appears to bo
a part of tho coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irre-
gular sha^ied reef of rocks.

The anchorage in Guatulco is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all
winds, except between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongest winds blow
from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may bo considered a very
safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour to tho east-
ward of Acapulco, and even in the rainy season, I was informed that a vessel
might lay there in perfect safety. The depth of water in the bay is from 7
to 9 fathoms, with a clear bottom.

When about 5 miles off tho shore from tho Bufadero, the western extreme
point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as tho land
adjoining. When about two leagues off shore from the Bufadero, another
capo further to tho westward can be seen. Its extreme point is rather low,
but rises gradually inland to a moderate elevation.

To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when abreast
of them, might bo taken for islands. Tho first is about 3 miles from the
port, tho other is 2 miles further to tho westward, and has a white sandy
beach, from which to tlio Bufadero the coast is rocky. Tho land which
crowns this part of the coast is covered with stunted trees and brushwood.
N. 8 J'^ AV. (by compass) between 4 and 5 leagues, is tho Cerro Zadan. Its
top is bcU-shaped, and it has a ridge on its N.E. side, connecting it with
tho higher range of the Cordilleras. The Cerro Zadan is elevated above
the sea rather more than 6,000 feet. The moimtains further inland a few
leagues cannot bo much short of 10,000 feet high, as they can bo seen over
the Cerro Zadan.

* Guatulco soems to havo been an iinfortxinato place during tho buccaneering expeditions
against tho Spaniards, for Sir Francis Drake sacked tho placo in 1574, and \\, was burnt in
1.587 1))' Sir Thomas Cavendish, among other places. Tho reader will find many notices of
these and similar incidents in Admiral Bumsy's collection.

\ w w r M ' »iii^aiMi> w ,v^iiii I I .

00 paces from tho

te tlio description ;
lit to make ; it in
ice, and runs in to
attom of tho bay is
ch cannot bo seen
n the eastern point
of rocks extending
part of the reef is
of tho same olova-
places level with
it appears to bo
it is a dark irre-

1 sheltered from all
rongest winds blow
) considered a very
irbour to tho east-
rmed that a vessel
the bay is from 7

e western extreme
) high as tho land
Bufadero, another
oint is rather low,

ich, when abreast

3 miles from the

as a white sandy

Tho land which

es and brushwood.

Cerro Zadan, Its

connecting it with

is elevated above

irther inland a few

can bo seen over

jcanoering expeditions
1, and ii, was burnt in
[I iind many notices of

PUERTO ANGEL. gj

The Port of Guatulco is so l,ad to mako that vessels have boon upwards of
a ftn-tmght in searching for it. It was by tho greatest chance possible wo
had not passed it, although wo were not a milo and a half from the shore
Ihe two liuts wluch wore on the beach can scarcely bo distinguished from tho
trees near which they are built.

The coast beyond Guatulco trends a little to tho South of West, for '>0 or
30 leagues. At about a league West of Guatulco is a small green island
called Saenfiuos, about half a mile long, and half a mile off the land There
appears to be a fine bay to the AVest of the island, but it is full of rocks
Ih., best anchorage is between the island and the main, where the depth is
about 5 or 6 fathoms, sheltered from easterly winds. High water at 3" 1.5-.
ihe tide runs strongly, rising and falling 5 or G foot.

The land winds aro hore at North, and tho sea breezes generally W S W
sometmies at S.W., with an easterly current. " "'

Westward of Sacrificios tho shore is all formed of sandy bays, tho
.—'ry tolerably high and wooded, with an enormous swell tumbling in
'.ore. "

^■./-•iRTO ANGEL, or Port Angeles, a new port, open to tho foreign and
coasting trado, on February 1st, 18G8, is 20 miles AVost of Sacrificios Island
accordmg to Eauza's chart. We have no recent particulars of it. but the fol-
lowing from old Uampier may bo useful. It is a broad, open bay, with two

in Tir Z '!': '''"* '•'" "^'""^ '^ ^^^'^ ^"^''"^•"^'^ '^U -- "- bay
n 30, 20 or 12 fathoms water, butyou must lie open to all winds, except tho

and -nds^ until you get into 12 or 10 fathoms; you will then be sheltered

r ! V . T' "'° '^'^ '^'"'""'^ *^«'^'' ^^°'^«- Tlio tide rises about

foot ; the flood setting to the N.E., and tho ebb to the S.W. Tho landing
m the bay is bad, behind a few rocks ; the swell is always very great Tho
land bounding tho inrbour is tolerably high, the earth sandy and yellow in
some places re,l It i. partly wooded, partly savannahs. ' ' ' ""

I^gI^eenmUc.^..tward of I'ort Angel is a small roclcy island, half a

Tplnlt Z. """' " '" '"'" ''"' '''' ™"^^'^' ^"'^ " S^-* «- ^'^"«

Ne,r tho 4lco;. . Jioc^ (in l„„g. 97= 30' W., Malaspina), the laud is mode-

u. ely high and wo. 1. . ; farther within land it is mountainous. Five or six

mdos to tho A^■ost tho Alcatras aro seven or eight white cliffs by the sea,

"•h aro very rer.arkable, because there are none so white nor so close to!

other on all tho coast. There is a dangerous ehoal lying S. by W. from

ose clifts,4.r5milesoffatsea. Two leagues to the West of 'these cliff"

there is a tolerably large river, which forms a nmall island at its mouth. Tho

oast<.rn ca;i.,..l la shallow and sandy, but tho western channel is deep enough

wr canoo=' to enter. """bn

%ond .^^, ' ,0 .h,rt affords, wo have no information of tho coast to the
westwara. ho, oral lagoons aro marked.

Willi Ml I ••nvvmautai a mu i M t

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

Cmcaul Point is about 62 miles beyond Alcatraz Island, and is higher than
the sandy coast on either side of it. A shoal extends for 4 miles seaward of
it, having as little as 10 feet on it. H.M.S. Tartar struck on this shoal,
March 4th, 1863, and places it in lat. 16" 11' N., long. 98" 32' W. The ves-
sel's draught was 18 feet, but the least water obtained was 3^ fathoms —
{Capt. G.H. Richards.)

Off Cuacaul Point, from 2 to 3 miles distant, there is anchorage in 8 or 10
fathoms, sheltered from the S.W. by the shoal.

The iZiVer Bulce is 12 miles N.W. of Cuacaul Point; tho Clio Rock lies 3
miles off it, 3 miles from shore, with 6 fathoms around it.

ACAPULCO.

This celebrated j i'-^ has sadly fallen from the high position it once held
among the planes of . ^rcial importance in the world. It owed all its

prosperity to the system ^^. jvsued by the Spanish colonial policy, and, when
that power became annihilated in the new world, Acapulco descended, not to
its level aa a harbour, for it is one of the finest in the world, but to that of the
capability of the surrounding country in supporting it. This, as is well known,
is very limited, and the foreign trade that it has across the Pacifi« is of very
minor importance.

In addition to tho changes in its external relations, it has some very serious
drawbacks to any pennanont prosperity. The climate is extremely hot, and
pernicious to European constitutions. This is increased by the proximity of
a marshy tract to the East of the town. During the dry season this marsh
dries up, and occasions the death of great quantitit s of small fish, whose
decay under a tropical sun produces no ordinary amount of pestilential va-
pours to be diffused, a fruitful source of the putrid bilious fevers so prevalent
here and in the vicinity.

Being entirely surrounded with high mountains, the sun has intense power
and the usual breezes are in a measure intercepted. To remedy this, an arti-
ficial cut was made through the chain of rocks which surrounded the town ;
this has caused a freer circulation of air.

It has been well surveyed, and the plan from the united observations of Sir
Edward Belcher and M. de Tessan, the Hydrographical Engineer to the ex-
pedition of Admiral Du Petit Thenars, in the Venm, with later, will give a
perfect idea of the port.

It consists principally of one extensive basin, in an angle of which, on
the N.W. side, stands the town. At its head are some whitish rocks, the
Fiedras Brancas, useful as marks in entering. There are two entrances,
formed by Roqueta or Grifo Island. That to the North of it is called the Roea
Chica or Little Entrance, and is narrow. The principal entrance is between

itmtmmtf- —

, and is highor than
r 4 miles seaward of
;TUck on this shoal,
8''32'W. Theves-
was 3 J fathoms —

.nchorage in 8 or 10

;ho Clio Rock lies 3

position it once held
[d. It owed all its
d policy, and, when
ico descended, not to
[d, but to that of the
lis, as is well known,
he Facifi« is of vety

las some very serious
) extremely hot, and
by the proximity of
r season this marsh
f small fish, whose
t of pestilential va-
B fevers so prevalent

m has intense power
remedy this, an arti-
Tounded the town;

d observations of Sir

Engineer to the ex-

;h later, will give a

angle of which, on
I whitish rocks, the

are two entrances,
I it is called the Boca

entrance is between

AOAPULCO. 93

the South point of (?n>(5/./«^«7>,-„,) and the S.E. point (2?r«> Point) of
the harbour, and is above H miles in width. It is quL dear. ^

Eashrard from Bruja Point is Port Marques, extending 2J miles E.S.E.

e!;^' T " ^'""'""''' ^'"''- '^^' ^^y> *««' " <l"ite clear.

Earthquakes are a great scourge to Acapulco, and must prevent its ever
becoming a substantial town ; at present it is poor and mean Besides til
earthquakes, the heaviest of which occur between March and June.TTe L '
seasons also another great drawback, and is felt here severely It com-
mences about the middle or end of July, and continues until the 'end f o"
tober Owmg to the immediate vicinity of a very lofty chain overlooking the
own (one of 2 790 feet), the fall is heavy and almost Lessant. It ha been
sorted that, ,n 1837, the rain gauge frequently indicated 28 inches in 2"
hours. Dunnghispenod the inhabitants are compelled to use eveiy pre-
cautxon to keep their houses dry, particularly under foot; a neglect o7JH
^pposed to produce fever. The heat during this perio'd is excessively «;
Fessive especially in May, when the temperature seldom falls below 98^

Td^ Ind In" T' "1' *°""'^ ^"^ ^"' °^*^« "^^y -^-' tt« P-d«

run dry, and wells are their only resource.-(Sir E. Belcher )
The entrance into Acapulco lies about midway between the East and West

extremes ofa high portion of the coast, which stands forward in a verylo

mmen way to the southward of the rest of the coast; the centre partYthe

highest, probably about 3,000 feet above the sea.
Both ends run off to bluflF points; the eastern one is called Point Bruia

and IS distinguishable by its presenting a set of steep white cliffs ; i is 3!

^eded on the eastern side by a long line of white sandy beach, backed by a

lower range of country, which reaches to the foot of the hills
The entrance of the harbour, when bearing North, has Point Bruja on the

hXwhLTl'"'""^*"^^"^ -^ ^«*^

The entrance may also be distinguished by a remarkable wln'te rock, tho

^^ ease at the distance of 3 or 4 leagues, when it bears on any point of
compass between N * W. and N.N.E. i E. by compass; in o'her cases
Ithe ent^cr^ '" ^'^ l-dnear Port Marques, or by the Island of Grifo.

Port Marques, an inlet IJ mile in depth, lies to the S.E. of Point Bruja ;
^entrance between that and Diamante Point to S.E. of it, is nearly a mil
wide. It 18 not easily made out till within a couple of leagues. In the en-
W the depths are 18 to 20 fathoms, the shores quite bold-to, and t Z

er basin from 10 to 15 fathoms, but near its head, within the dept "o "
fathoms, is a sunken rock. ^

Grifo, or Roqueta Island, is nearly n mile West of Point Bruja, that

94 WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

being the width of the Boca Grande. A fixed light is said to bo shown from
this island, which may bo seen 5 miles off. At its N.E. end is a smaller
island, 50 feet in height, called M Mono ; and at a quarter of a mile East of
this is a smaU rock, which is only 4 feet above high water. This should be
looked after if you enter either by the Boca Chica or the Groat Entrance.
Toint Grifo, which is three-quarters of a mile N. by E. from tho Morro
Eock, is the S.E. point of an inner bay, called Santa Lucia Bay, on the North
side of which is the town of Acapulco. A liyht is said to be shown from the
point when the steamers, in connection with tV Panama Eailway service,

are due.

There are no dangers in Acapulco Harbour, except the Serieuse Shoal, of 2^
fathoms, close to the North side of the harbour, haK a mile E.N.E. from tho
Castle of Sau Diego, and nearer the shore than any ship would think of going.
There can be no difficulty in making out the situation of this harbour, when
it is understood that its latitude is 16° 50' N., and that it is pointed out by ii
lofty promontory, which maintains its height and abruptness to the very sea,
without any low land; this high land is covered with trees or shrubs, and
everywhere presents a green surface, except where it meets the sea, and then
its face is laid bare, and shows only naked white or gray cliffs of granite, not
of a massy character, but splintered in all directions.

The anchorage is abreast of the town in the western corner of the bay,
near two white rocks, to one of which a hawser may be made fast, and tho
ship canted to the sea breeze. There is a remarkable high land considerably
to the eastward, and much further inland than the promontory of Acapulco,
having a long tabular top, which rises considerably above the neighbouring
peaks. But there ' J no difficulty in distinguishing this promontory, when
coming along shore from the eastward, as it is the first high coast land
which reaches to the sea, and terminating a line of low white beach. On
the western side, the coast line is high, and offers such a variety of forms
and heights, that it may not be easy to distinguish the high land of Aca-
pulco, or rather a stranger might perhaps mistake some other part of the

coast for it.

The paps of Coyuca are the marks generally pointed out as affording the
means of distinguishing the land ; they lie some leagues to the westward or
W.N.W. of the promontory of Acapulco, and might be better described, I
think, as a castle or fort-like mountain, than as paps. There is first a very
abrupt precipice facing the West, with a surface somewhat tabular, but not
quite level ; the top being nearly equal, in horizontal length, to what tho
cliff is in abrupt height; then there is a nick or gully which is succeeded
by a flat peak, not very unlike a pap. After this there is a long hog-backed
ridge, with an irregular peaked termination at the eastern end. The land
between this and Acapulco sinks considerably, and though it stUl remains a
tolerable height, the promontory is always sufficiently conspicuous.

aid to bo shown from
.E. end is a smaller
irter of a mile East of
ater. This should be
the Groat Entrance.
r E. from tho Morro
uia Bay, on the North
. to be shown from the
ama Eailway service,

he Serieuse SJwal, of 2i
mile E.N.E. from tho
) would think of going,
of this harbour, when
t it is pointed out by ii
aptness to the very sea,
L trees or shrubs, and
aeets the sea, and then
ray cliffs of granite, not

)rn corner of the bay^
be made fast, and the
high land considerably
romontory of Acapulco,
bove the neighbouring
this promontory, when
e first high coast land
low white beach. On
uch a variety of forms
b the high land of Aca-
some other part of the

ted out as affording the
;ues to the westward or
be better described, I
!. There is first a very
lewhat tabular, but not
tal length, to what tho
uUy which is succeeded
ere is a long hog-backed
eastern end. The land
though it still remains a
ly conspicuous.

AOAPULOO. 95

When its extreme South point bears about East, and indeed when it boars
considerably to tho northward of East, there is no high land to bo seen beyond
it to the eastward.

At the distancoof 7 or 8 leagues the land about Point Bruja makes like
an island. — {liasil Hall.)

Sir Edward Belcher says (January 12, 1838) :— " We made tho high paps
of Ooyuca, to the westward of Acapulco ; but I cannot persuade myself that
they are good landmarks for mab'ng the port. In tho offing they may bo
useful if not obscured.

Acapulco may be approached from tho southward or westward, by keeping
the western cone open of the land, which will lead up to the Boca Chica en-
trance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the lee, that no further marks
are necessa: . There is not any hidden danger in the entrance to Acapulco.
Keep a moderate distance from either shore; 5 fathoms will be found along-
side aU the rocks, and 25 to 30 in mid-channel. Bound Point Grifo sharp,
rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, as the wind, generaUy westerly, heads
on that shore. If working, tack when the rocks on tho South point of Tower
Bay show in the gap.

The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to; that outside is prefer-
able; but in either case let the outer rock bear W.8.W. or W.N.W., so that
a hawser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land or sea breezes, and
prevent a foul anchor.

The Harbour of Acapulco has long been reckoned, for its size, one of the
most complete in the world. It affords sheltered, land-locked anchorage of
16 fathoms and under, in a surface of one mile square; which, allowing for
moorings, would, at half a cable's range, or one cable asunder, accommodate
100 sail of vessels, even of the line. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but
clayey beneath, and holds well.

It would naturally be inferred that, surrounded on its North and East
sides by mountains ranging from 2,000 to 2,700 feet, and by others of 300
to 500 feet on the West, the breeze would scarcely bo felt, and the heat
be intolerable. This is confined to the town limits. At our observatory
(Captain Belcher's), and the port, San Carlos, we enjoyed a constant
breeze.

In aU harbours there may be objectionable berths, but in that of Acapulco,
if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designated " West Gap,"
or neck of the peninsula open of the South point of the town bay, both land
and sea breezes will be felt in their full strength, and free from causes which
would heat them before entering the port, the neck being but a few feet
above tho sea level.

Water of good quaUty was found at several points between the fort
and Obispo Eock; but the two best streams aro between the fort and San
Lorenzo.

"WEST COAST OP MEXICO.

Captain G. II. Richards, E.N., the present hydrographer, surveyed a part
of the coast to the westward, in H.M.S. Hecate, iu 1863, and ho has given the
following :-In approaching from the westward the Taps of Coyuca are a
good guide ; they are two distinct conical summits, and the mountain is about
4,000 feet high ; it lies N.W. by N. nearly 30 miles from Acapuico, and 20
from the coast. The land westward of Acapuico is high. At the distance of
10 or 12 miles from the coast two distinct ranges are seen ; the nearer ono
about 2,500 feet high ; and the more distant one, of which the Paps foi-m a
portion, over 4,000 feet. When the Paps of Coyuca bear N. by E. i E., a
red stripe, or land-slip wiU be seen on the coast right under them. A square
table-topped mountain rises just westward of Acapuico, to between 2,000 and
3,000 feet. When within 8 or 10 miles of the port, Eoqueta Island is seen,
which has a high, yellow, cliffy coaat, as also the point of the main land
northward, forming the entrance of the Boca Chica.

Diamante Point, which appears as the eastern extreme of the land, shows
as an island at the distance of 7 or 8 miles ; the head of Port Marques, of
which it forms tho South point of entrance, being low. Making Acapuico,
from tho S.W. o .uthward, the entrance is remarkable, from the yellowish
cliffs of Diamante Point, and Boqueta Island which may be seen at a consi-
derable distance. The Paps of Cc aca are also seen, but the eastern peak
appears cut off There is also a white wooden tower on the summit of Bo-
queta Island, which is used for a lighthouse, and seen 6 or 7 miles off The
light is only exhibited when the Pacific MaU Steam Company's vessels are
expected.

The coast to the West of Acapuico is low, and formed by what is called the
beaches of Coyuca. The swell sets so strongly upon this long, shallow, sandy
bay to the West, that it is impossible to get near it in a boat or canoe ;
yet it is good clean ground, and good anchorage a mile or two firom the
shore. The land near the sea is low, and moderately fertile, producing
spreading palms and other trees, which grow in clumps all along this
bay. The land-wind here is generally from the N.E., and the sea-breezes
from S.W.

The Paps of Coyuca, serviceable as a mark for approaching Acapuico,
have been before noticed. They are remarkable, and may be readUy distin-
guished, as Capt. Belcher says, " when not obscured." According to the
Spanish chart, they are in lat. 17° 6' N., long. 100° W.

Having arrived at Point Jequepa (or Tequepa), the coast trends rather more
northerly, and at about 20 leagues is the Morro de Petatlan, a high mountain,
which may be known by the islands which surround it.

" The hill of Petaplan (Petatlan) is a round point stretching out into the
sea, appearing at a distance like an island. A little to the West of this
hiU are several round rocks." Dampier anchored on the N.W. side of the

ir, Burvoyed a part

id ho has givon tho

[)s of Coyuca aro a

) mountain is about

Acapuico, and 20

At the distance of

n ; the nearer ono

h the Paps fonn a

r N. by E. i E., a

ler them. A square

» between 2,000 and

^ueta Island is seen,

of the main land

of the land, shows
f Port Marques, of

Making Acapuico,
, from the yellowish

be seen at a consi-
it the eastern peak
I the summit of Bo-
or 7 miles off. The
mpany's vessels are

»y -what is called the
long, shallow, sandy
in a boat or canoe ;
lile or two from the
y fertile, producing
imps all along this
and the sea-breezes

proaohing Acapuico,
lay be readily distin-
" According to the

ist trends rather more
'Jan, a high mountain,

retching out into the
to the West of this
the N.W. side of the

PORT SIIIUANTANEJO. 97

hill, passing inside of those rocks, between them and the round point, where
he had 1 1 f...:.„m8 water.

Between this point and several wliito islands, is the small port of Siyunata-
nojo, or Sihuantauojo.

POET SIHUANTANEJO has been surveyed by Captain Kollett, E.N.,
1847, and from his plan it would appear to be an excellent harbour, but open
to the S.W. There is no hidden danger going in, and the entrance is suffi-
ciently marked by the bold coast to require no directions. The position of
tho observations at the L-^-i of the port. Captain Kollett places in lat.
17° 38' 3" N., long. 101° 30' 52" W.

Dampier passed along this coast, and says— "About ^ leagues West from
Petaplan is Chequetan (Sihuantanejo ?). At IJ miles from the shore is a
small bay, and within it is a very good harbour, where ships may careen ;
there is also a small river of fresh water, and sufficient wood."

He landed at a place he calls Estapa, a league to the West of Sihuantanejo
and taking a mulatto woman for his guide, his companions plundered the
unfortunate Acapuico carrier.

To the West of Estapa, Dampier says the land is high, and full of ragged
hills ; and West from these ragged hills the land makes many pleasant and
fertile valleys among the mountains.

All this coast is lined with villages and salt-works (salines), worked by the
inhabitants. The approach to the coast is clear, but there is no safe anchor-
age, and there is not a single imi>ortant river. That of Sacatuh or ^aca-
tula, which comes from the Volcan de Jorullo, as also the liios C'amuta and
Coalcaman, are not navigable. Captain Q-. H. Eichards says that it must be
a very small one, for nothing of the kind could be made out from tho mast-
head at the distance of IJ mile.

Mangrove Bluff, a low, but well-defined point, in lat. I"'' 54' 5" N., long.
102° 12' 41" W., is the western extreme of a deep bay, at tho head of whieli
the Canuta or Salt-pits are marked in tho old cliart, and is near where tho
Sacatula River is said to be.

From Mangrove Bluff the coast trends W. by N. i N., nearly straight,
ivith no remarkable feature for a distance of 60 miles to Zizanl Point, which
is low and cliffy.

Soundings.— At the distance of 8 miles eastward of Lizard Point there arA
from 35 to 40 fathoms, at 3 miles from the shore, which continue until ap-
proaching Mangrove Bluff; and, singularly enough, at the distance of 3
miles to the westward of it, and scarcely 2 from the beach, there are 132
fathoms, mud bottom.

Immediately South of the bluff, and nearly 2 miles from it, there are only
14 fathoms, shingle bottom ; and the same depth, or less, continues for 3 or
4 miles to the eastward, parallel with and at tho same distance from the coast,
when the water suddenly deepens.

North Pacific, ^

Ill

gg WEST COAST or MEXICO.

A liigh and very remarkable mountain rises over the East side of the Salt
Pit Bay, and the i.les llloneo, shown on the chart are very conspicuous ob-
jects. Thoy are tlireo white inlets or rocks, tho easternmost being the largest,
square, and somothing like a haystack in shape.

Tejupan Bluff is 26 miles W. by N. J N. from Lizard Point, the coast bo-
tween being generally steep, and rising somewhat abruptly to 2,000 feet.

At 10 miles eastward of Tejupan is tho only remarkable intermediate point.
Three white rocks lio olT it, in an E.S.E. direction, and a sandy bight is
formed to tho westward. Inside them, there is a fertilo-lookiug spot, with a
village, and probably landing, and shelter for boats.

Tho bluff is bold and cliffy, with two small rocky islets off it. Anchorage
in 16 fathoms was found 7 miles south-eastward of the head, a mile from tho
shore. The hills rise in successive ranges parallel with the coast to the
westward, tho nearer ones from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, the more distant

much higher. . ,

The Paps of Tejupan, a mountain 5,860 feet high, with a double nipple
summit, Uo 21 miles E.N.E. from the bluff of tho same name, and although
remarkable in passing up or down the coast, would scarcely be so from sea-
ward, in conso<iuenco of the back ranges rising to a greater olovation.

Colima Mountain, 12,000 feet high, and 15 miles inland, is visible from this
part of the coast, and very remarkable when seen distinctly ; but tho haze,
which generally hangs over the distant land, renders this seldom the case,
and it therefore cannot be counted upon as a land mark. It is a saddle-
shaped mountain. The two sharp conical summits, apparently near the same
height, and the horizontal measurement between them from off Tejupan

Bluff is 45 miles.

Black Head is 18 miles N.N.W. from Tejupan Bluff, the coast between
being composed alternately of sandy beach and high cliff Black Head is
a cliffy peninsula, lat. 18" 36' 18" N., long. 103" 41' 51" W., which is con-
nected to the shore by a sandy neck. A small white rock lies half a mile
N.W. of the northern extreme of the peninsula, and a bay is formed to the
northward of tho rock, where there is anchorage in fine weather in 14 fa-
thoms water, 1 J- mile off shore.

MANZANILLA was visited by Sir Edward Belcher in 1838, and by Capt.
G. H. Eichards in 1863. The bay (or harbour) is about 5 miles wide, and
is divided into two bays on tho North side by a Funta do la Audiemia. The
bay to the East is ManzaniUa, and that to the West Santiago, and in this is
the best watering place.

The bay is small but safe, the anchorage is good, the water brackish.
There are no houses ; men and families living exposed under the trees ; and
had not the Leonora (an English bark, then at anchor) been there, it is pro-
bable that we should not have seen a soul.— ^tV i'. Mcher, 1838.

The port is weU protected against the southerly winds prevalent during

,m m

he East side of tlio Salt
ro very conspicuous ob-
.-nmost being tlio largest

izard Point, the coast bti-
ibruptly to 2,000 feet,
kable intermediate point,
n, and a sandy bigbt is
rtilo-loukiug spot, with a
I.

• islets oif it. Anchorag<>
bho head, a mile from the
ol with the coast to the
t high, the more distent

jh, with a double nipple
iame name, and although
scarcely be so from sea-
, greater elevation,
nland, is visible from this
distinctly ; but the haze,
era this seldom the case,
d mark. It is a saddle-
, apparently near the same
1 them from off Tejupan

Bluff, the coast between
igh cliff. Black Head is
1' 51" W., which is con-
hito rock lies half a mile
ind a bay is formed to the
in lino weather in 14 fa-

Icher in 1838, and by Capt.
3 about 5 miles wide, and
unia de la Audienoia. The
)st Santiago, and in this is

good, the water brackist.
losed under the trees; and
chor) been there, it is pro-
£'. micher, 1838.
•\y winds prevalent during

MANZANILLA. g,,

the rainy season; but, on account of a very considerable lake of stagnant
water m its immediate neighbourhood, it is very unhoaltliy during tlio sum-
mer. Infested by myriads of mosquitoes and sand flies, oven in the dry
season, it is nearly impossible to reside there. It has been open to foreign
countries for several years, but has not been able to make much progress.
The port itself has not a single house, and the first adjacent town is C.lima,
formerly tJio capital of the territory bearing the same name, now embodied
with tho department of Michoacan.
Captain G. H. Richards gives the following account of it :—
The White Met, or Piedra lilanca of Manzauilla, lies off the eastern extreme
of the sandy beach which runs in almost a straight line for l;} miles from
Cape Graham, at a mile from tho shore. It is a quarter of a mile long and
300 feet high, wedgo-shapod when seen from tho westward, and remarkably
white, being the resort of numerous sea birds. This islet is the mark for
ManzaniUa Bay, and may be seen from the westward immediately on round-
mg Navidad Head, a distance of nearly 20 miles; it then appears just
inside the extreme of the land. It can be seen easily from a vessel's deck
at a distance of 15 miles, when bearing from E. J S., round by North to
W.N.W.

ManzaniUa Bay is known by this white islet 2 J miles westward of its West
point of entrance. A high rock lies close off this point ; and another white
rock, resembling a sail, at a quarter of a mile off tho eastern point. From
the westward they are both remarkable. Approaching ManzaniUa from tho
westw^d, the Vigia Grande, a remarkable cone-shaped hill, will also be seen
just inside tho sail rock. It is 740 feet high, and rises immediately over the
anchorage. As neither tho houses nor shipping can be seen from sea-
ward, this is a good mark to steer for, passing from IJ to 2 miles out-
Bide the White Islet, and the same distance from the West point of
entrance, when the Vigia Grande will bear E. i N., and may be steered
for.

This course will lead more than a mile southward of or outside the Sisters,
a group of five rocks, the largest of which is 10 feet high. They lie in a di-
rect line between the West point of entrance and the Vigia Grande, distant
from the former 2^ miles. A very remarkable table-topped mountain, 2,600
feet high, rises oyer the western point of the bay, and is an exceUent guide
for the port. The anchorage is immediately under the Vigia Grande, about
one-third of a mile from the village, in 9 or 10 fathoms water ; over mud and
good holding ground. ManzaniUa (West end of village), lat. 19° 3' 13" N ,
long. 104" 17' 41" W.

The bay is safe with all winds except gales from West or S.W., which do
not occur between the months of November and June— the dry season, and
singularly enough, the least healthy; fevers and ague prevail, more or less,
at aU times, but are moro fatal during the dry ueason. It is not recom-

( It

if!'

,00 WEST COAST OP MKXK'O.

mended to lio hc^ro luoro thuu four or five days at u timo, and to take an off.

slioro l)ovth, whoro tlio hcu brco/o will rciieh.

S„.;,to.-Fro8h boof on 1 vogotublos, us woU us other necessaries, can 1)0
obtained lioro. Frosh water should on no account bo received on board, and
it i8 desirable that the crews of vessels should land as seldom as possible, uor
1)0 exposed in boats wliou avoidable.

Water of lolerable .lunlity may bo got from a small brook across the bay,
about N.W from the anchorage. For the purpose of procuring it choose, it
„os8ible, a very calm u.v. Stow the casks to b. filled in the long boat, or
launch and anchor it near tuc brook at the back of the surf. Hire a canoe
to land the casks, with some iron-bound hogsheads, which are to be rolled
across the strand *o the brook, and then filled, which done, haul them with
a running line to the loat, and fill the casks.

TUu tide occurs every twenty-four hours, the flood in the morning and the
obb in the evening. It ri'-es about 7 feet, and the current runs to the
South. Good pearls, &c., moy bo had.

ManzaniUa is about 20 or iiO leagues' distance from the city of Colima, the
capital of the territory of that name. Except frequent earthquakes and
goitres, with which the inhabitants are affected, there is nothing remarkable
in the city, which contains about 30,000 inhabitants, wholly occupy -^ m
agriculti^re and commerce.— 2>«/o« de Mofras.

At 8 leagues to the E.N.E. is the Volcan de Colima, before mentioi ^ -
westernmost of the Mexican group. Its entire height is 12,003 feet ; it is in
activity, and sulphureous vapours, cinders, and stones are enitted ; but it has
not discharged any lava for a long period. The diameter of its crater is 60C
feet, and its mouth is perpendicular. The flanks of the mountains are barren
and cliffy. The suluhur on it is of a bad quality. At a league North of th(
volcano there is an extinct crater, which exceeds the former in elevation bj
710 feet, and the height of which above the port is 12,713 feet. Its summi
is covered with snow, and it may be seen at very great distances at sea, anc
offers, when the sky is clear, an excellent point of recognition for navigator
approaching Manzanilla.

The vaUey in which Colima is situated seems to bo formed of volcanic pro
ducts aud decomposed lava. The vegetation consists of palms, aloes, an.
superb orange trees. Above the usual level these tropical plants are replace,
by foreats of sombre pines.

From 2 miles beyond the West point of ManssaniUa Bay to Cape Graham
an almost straight sandy beach extends in a W. by N. direction for 13 miles
the coast being from 15 to 20 feet high; the long lagoon lies immediatel
behind, and beyond again the land rises in distinct ranges to between 3,00
and 4,000 feet.
Between Navidad and Manaanilla, during the fine season, boats maygen(

•0.

lirno, uud to take an off-
other necessaries, con l>o
bo recoivod on board, and
as seldom as possible, nor

nail brook across the bay,
) of procuring it cliooso, if
filled in tho long boat, or
f the surf. Hire a canoo
ds, which are to be rolled
lich done, haul them with

)d in tho morning and the
I the current runs to tho

rom tho city of CoUma, tho
frequent earthquakes and
liere is nothing remarkable
itants, wholly occupi'"^ in

lima, before mentioi
light is 12,003 feet; it is in
ones are emitted ; but it has
liameter of its crater is 600
»f the mountains are barren
At a league North of the
the former in elevation by
is 12,713 feet. Its summit
great distances at sea, and
; recognition for navigators

3 bo formed of volcanic pro*
nsists of palms, aloes, and
tropical plants are replaced

milla Bay to Cape Graham,
by N. direction for 13 miles,
Qg lagoon lies immediately
ict ranges to between 3,000

fine season, boats may gene-

NAVIDAD BAY.

10}

rally land on tho beach, and there is safe nnchorngo half a milo from tho
Rhoro in IS fathoms.

NAVIDAD BAY.— After rounding Navidad ITond from tho northward, at
tho distnnco of 2 niiloB, tho whito sandy bottfh of Navidad Bay will bo seon,
bearing E. by N., distant 7 miles. Capo Graham, tho East point of tho bay,
700 fent high, has a high pookod rock close oft" it, as well as n smaller one,
which, howovor, do not show as detached from any position a vessel would bo
in. There is also a small rock, 6 feet above high water, which boars from
tho capo S.W., distant half a mile. At 2 miles off tho whito rock «f Navidad
there are fit) fathoms water, and steering for tho anchorage it praduoUy
shoals to 40 and 30 fathoms. Navidad Bay, North Bench, lat. 19'= 13' N.,
long. 104° 41' 25' W.

As tho bay is approached, Ilarbour Point, a very remarkable high whito
point, will be seen on tho northern shore ; immediately rourid and inside it
is tho anchorage, a very fair stopping place during the fine season, but it is
not recommended for a sailing vessel at othor times, as there is a difficulty
in getting out with a S.W. wind. Tho best berth is in 7 fathoms water,
sandy bottom, with Harbour Point bearing 8. S.W. a quarter of a mile, and
the same distance from tho eastern shore of tho bay. Sailinp: \ ossols may
anchor farther out, with the point bearing West, iu 10 and 11 lathoms, but
there will be more swell.

A single house stands in tho North hook of tho baj', and a lagoon within
a few yards of the beach, where tho wator is fresh, and tho natives say good,
but it is not recommended to use it unless a vessel is in distress. At the S.E.
end of the bay is the N. W. end of a long lagoon which hero opens into tho
sea ; a strong stream runs out of it, and there is sufficient depth for boats at
half tide. There is a small village here, and some supplies of fresh pro-
visions may be obtained. The anchorage off this end of the bay is not re-
commended.

Navidad Head is 7 miles westward of Navidad Bay. It is a wedge-
shaped summit, about 400 feet high, falling in shore to a low neck, and is
remarkable when seen from any direction. On approaching it, within 3 or
4 miles, it is seen to be an island, separated from the main by a low rocky
ledge, which the water rises over. Off the head are three remarkable rocks,
extending in a S.W. directi(m ; the centre one being white, with a smooth
round top, covered with vegetation, and about 70 feet high. These rocks
^ve the head some slight resemblance to Farralono Point, with the
Prailes Eocks, when seen from the N.W. ; but the peculiar shape of the
Wedge Island would prevent the possibility of a mistake after the first glance.

The white rock of Navidad has been mistaken for the white islet of Man-
zaniUa by strangers, and accidents have occurred in consequence, but this
mistake could only have arisen in the absence of any chart. Tho Navidad
Bock is small, the centre of three, and stands off a prominent headland.

if!!?'

102

WEST COAST OP MEXICO.

Tlio white ii=!let of Manzanilla, 20 tnilos to the south-eastward, is Tery
larger, remarkably white, and stands alono, a mile from shore, but,
rather in a bight, cannot be seen projecting from any position a vessel
be in. Besides the three high rocks off Navidad Head, there is a i
one, which occasionally breaks, and lies S.E. J E. from the white ro(
tant a short mile.

Tenacatita Bay is 5 miles wide from Navidad Head, its S.E. pc
lirothers Point, its N.W. extreme. The latter has a rather remt
double hill rising immediately over it, which from the northward a
like an island. Off the point is a high, square, perpendicular rock, an
smaller ones about it abovo water ; there are also some off-lying dan]
be avoided.

Porpoise Rock, 7 feet high, lies 1^ miles W. by S. from Brothers
and a breaking rock lies S.E. by S. 3^ cables from the same point. T
is spacious, and is more than 2 miles deep, and there is said to be go
choragG in its N.W. corner, well protected, with the wind from that q
It should, however, be entered with caution, as it has not been exa
A berth of 2 miles should be given to Brothers Point. One or tw(
were observed in the N.W. part of the bay.

The Frailes, two needle-shaped rocks, from 80 to 100 feet high, lie
north- M'est ward of Brothers Point, and the same distance south-east^
Farralone Point, which is low and projecting. They are at half a nxi
the shore.

Flat Top Point is 8 miles north-westward of Farallone Port, Oi
point, the South extreme of Ferula Bay, rises a remarkable flat-
mountain, 1,100 feet high, which is very conspicuous from the northwi
westward.

PEBTJLA BAY, a spacious and convenient anchorage, is 60 miles
eastward of Cape Corriontes. It is easily recognised from any direc
two islands, which lie in the centre of it ; the northernmost of whicl
sarera, 130 feet high, is remarkable from its perpendicular white clifff
are seen from a long distance. Ferula Bay (Observation Cove), lat.
31" N., long. 105^ 6' 33" W.

Colorado, the southern island, is rather low, and has a slightly ]
appearance. The best anchorage is in the northern part of tl
The entrance is between Eivas Point, the north-west extreme, an
sarera Island, and is a mile in breadth. The depth of water fron
18 fathoms.

Rivas Point is bold and cliffy, with some detached rocks a cable anc
off it, the outer one 30 feet high. Fro. a. this rock a reef, 2 feet abov
water, and on which the sea always breaks, lies East, distant 1 J cabli
deep water close to it. There is anchorage anywhere within a line b
Eivas Point and Passarora Island, in from 10 to 14 fathoms water,

MEXICO.

;he south-eastward, is Tery much
), a mile from sliore, but, being
f from any position a vessel would
ividad Head, there is a sunken
3. i E. from the white rock, dis-

lavidad Head, its S.E. point, to
latter has a rather remarkable
lich from the northward appears
are, perpendicular rock, and some
re also some off-lying dangers to

) W. by S. from Brothers Point,
es from the same point. The bay
and there is said to be good an-
with the wind from that quarter.
I, as it has not been examined,
thers Point. One or two rocks

im 80 to 100 feet high, lie 6 miles
same distance south-eastward of
ng. They are at half a mile from

ird of Farallone Port. Over this
, rises a remarkable flat-topped
ispicuouB &om the northward and

int anchorage, is 60 miles south-
recognised from any direction by
the northernmost of which, Pas-
ts perpendicular white clifTs which
y (Observation Cove), lat. 19° 34'

low, and has a slightly reddish

the northern part of the bay.

3 north-west extreme, and Pas-

The depth of water from 15 to

detached rocks a cable and a half

iiis rock a reef, 2 feet above high

. lies East, distant 1 ^ cable, with

anywhere within a line between

10 to 14 fathoms water, but the

CAPE CORFvIENTES. io3

most sheltered is with the high rook off Rivas Point, bearing S.W. by S.,
distant about half a mile, or midway between it and the sandy beach on the
eastern side of the bay, where there are 4 and 5 fathoms at a cable and a
half from the beach. Small vessels may anchor in the northern bight of the
bay, and be more out of the swell.

^ At the south-east end of the bay, nearly 4 miles from Eivas Point, is the
Tillage of Chamela. Vessels wishing to anchor near it should enter between
Colorado Island and the small islands to the south-east of it. This channel
is two-thirds of a mile wide, and free from danger. Largo vessels may an-
chor in 8 fathoms, with the South point of Colorado Island bearing S.W. by
W., and the village of Chamela just open of San Pedro Island, midway bc-
txveen the island and the shore of tho bay. SmaU vessels may anchor in 4
fathoms inside Cocino Island, where they will bo two-thirds of a mile from
the village. Inside this it shoals rapidly, and off the village there is only a
fathom of water.

From Passarera Island a bar extends to the opposite sandy point of tho
bay, distant two-thirds of a mile. Tho least depth of water on it is 3
fathoms, so that vessels of greater draught cannot pass from tho nonliern
anchorage to the southern part of tho bay, but must go outside the
islands. The bottom is sandy, but good holding ground. During the
fine season, from November till Juno, the sea breeze from N.W. is regular
during the day, and the land wind at night, and the anchorage is perfectly
safe; but with S.W. or S.E. winds a heavy swell sets in every part of
the bay,

^ Supplies of fresh beef, pumpkins, and water-melons, may be had at the
viUage, by giving a day's notice; there is also good water from a stream
close to it. Dye--ood is exported, but of an inferior quality.

Immediately southward of the cape a sandy beach commences, the general
features inland being conical peaks. Soundings are obtained 4 miles South
of the cape, and at the distance of 3 miles from the shore, in from 4.i5 to 55
fathoms, and whenever a sandy beach line is observed, 19 or 20 fathoms
water will generally be found within a mile of it, where vessels may anchor
if necessary ; but the coast is not considered safe between June and the end
of November, during which time S.E. and S.W. gales are prevalent, bring-
ing in a heavy sea.

CAPE COKRIENTES, a bold and lofty headland, with rather a li <' sum-
mit, rises to between 2,000 and 3,000 feet. From tho northward r,nd west-
ward it is not remarkable, but from the southward it is bold and i)rojecting
There are no dangers off it, and soundings were not obtained with lOG fa-
thoms, at 4 miles West of it. Cape Corriontes, extreme, lat. 20» 25' N
long. 105° 39' 21" W.* "'

• Richmond Rocks, laid do^ni in tho charts at 8 miles W.S.W., or 13 miles W.

i«l!<14

I;,

)1 i

104

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

Between Capo Corrientes and Manzanilla there are the three littl
frequented anchorages of Guailan, Navidad, and Tarnation.

The cape is a bold and well-characterised promontory, jutting far into tl
Bca. with a tolerably straight sky line, broken here and there by ravines ai
small peaks. It is ovorywhore clad with imderwood to the top, and has tl
appearance of being a safe, bold shore. Sandy beaches were noticed
different places, but in general the cliffs appear to be washed by the se
Beyond Cape Corrientes, which all ships from the South should make
going to San Bias, is the great liai/ of Jmeca and the Valle de Banderas,
or It") leagues in extent, where foreign ships sometimes take in the Braz
wood, with which the country abounds.

Foint Mita, a narrow projecting point, is the N.W. point of Vallo de Ba
deras Bay, and is 24 miles N.N.E. There are some rocks off Point Mita,
the eastward of which there is anchorage in the northern part of the bay
3 fathoms.

In front, aiid at 4 miles S.S.W. of Point Mita lie, nearly on the sai
parallel, the three small islands Las Marietas, and a fourth, to the We
called £(i Corvetana. This group being only a degree distant from that
the Tres Marias, presently described, should be carefully made, in order
prevent any error.

Tho Marietas are surrounded by numerous rocks, the westernmost ie
miles distant, and is rocky on tho western side.

La Corvetana is a bare rock, 25 feet high, in lat. 20° 44' N., long. 105° 4€
It is of small extent, not larger than a ship's huU, and when seen fr
southward appears in three Kuramits. The water seems to be deep arou
it, and it lies 20 miles N.W. J N. from Cape Corrientes.

Tho coast beyond Point Mita retires a little, trending first 8 miles to i
eastward, and then N. ^ E. for 34 miles to the entrance of tho river Cua
dios. In the interval are met with, after Point Tecmitan, the anchorages
Chacala and Matanchd, to the South of the small Cajoe Los Custodios, wh
marks the South entrance to San Bias.

The TRES MAEIAS lie 70 miles to the north-westward of Capo Coi
entes. They wore discovered by Mendoza in 1532, and often served in ai
years, as a rofuge to pirates end the buccaneers who scoured these coai
Dampior was here in 1686, and he says, — " I had been for a long time e
of a dropsy, a distemper whereof, as I said before, many of our men di(
so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot sand. I endu
it near half an hour, and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a t<
I did sweat exceedingly while I was in tho sand, and I do believe it did

from tho capo, from tho report of Captain S, llichmond, 1S65, aro believed no
exist. The nutivcH and others employed in tho coKsting tniido for many years assert
th(?ro is no such rock.

XICO.

, there are the three little
L Tamatlan.

montory, jutting far into the
ere and there by ravines and
(Food to the top, and has tho
dy beaches were noticed at
ar to be washed by the sea.
im the South should make in
and the Valle de Bander as, 12
ometimea take in the Brazil-

N.W. point of Vallo de Ban
some rocks off Point Mita, to
e northern part of the bay in

Mita lie, nearly on the same

, and a fourth, to the "West,

degree distant from that of

} carefully made, in order to

3 rocks, the westernmost is G

at. 20°44'N., long. 105° 46 J'.
3 huU, and when seen from
^ater seems to be deep around
orrientes.

B, trending first 8 miles to the
} entrance of tho river Custo-
t Tecmitan, the anchorages of
lall Cape Loa Cttstodios, which

)rth-westward of Capo Corri-
532, and ofton served in after
)r6 who scoured these coasts.
had been for a long time sick
fore, many of our men died ;
d in the hot sand. I endured
ut and laid to sweat in a tent.
d, and I do believe it did lae

■niES MAKIAS ISLANDS.

105
A very singular

iraond, \S65, aro believed not tn
5 trrtdo for many years aasert that

much good, for I grew well soon after."— Vol. i. p. 276.
sand bath.

Tho group properly consists of /our islands. Tho southernmost is Cleopha :
it is 3 miles long E. and W., and 2 miles broad. It has some rocks off its
N.E. point, and some islets off its West end.

Magdalena is 8^- miles long, and to the S.AV. it has several detached islets
and rocks. In the middle of the North shore tho land slopes from the sum-
mit to a level sandy beach. It is thickly wooded, and about tho samo height
as the chief island, to the northward of it.

Maria Madre or St. George is 11-J- miles long N.W. and S.E. Its highest
point is toward the South, and may be soon 50 miles off. From this point
it gradually declines in elevation to its low N.W. extremity.

Han Juanito, the north '^'•" most of the group, is a low island, about 2} miles
long, and has off its N.W. point a remarkable steep white cliffy rock, re-
sembling the S.W. side of tho island of Maria Madre. This side only has
been surveyed, and it terminates on tho S.W. in a low projecting point.
On either side of the point is a small bay, which afford shelter against the
prevailing wind, protected by a sandy and rocky beach, which projects from
the South point of Afaria Madre.

They were surveyed by Captain Beechey, whose directions, in connexion
with those for San Bias, aro given below. Sir Edward Belcher also visited
them in 1838, and he says : —

" There is nothing inviting in either of the Marias. In the rainy season
water may flow, but from what I witnessed of the channels through which it
must pass, they should be well cleansed by floods before it would be lit for
consumption. What remained in the natural tanks was sulphureous and
brackish, although far above the influence of the sea, and forn^ d by a strong
infusion of decayed leaves. By tracks observed, turtle apj :>rod to have
visited the island lately, but none were seen or taken. Wood is plentiful,
pai-ticularly a species of lignum vitro. Cedar, of the coarse species, used for
canoes, we met with, but none of the fine grain.

Fish appear to be numerous, particularly sharks. The capricious character
of the ocean about these islands renders visits at any time hazardous, as a
fow moments may imprison the naturalist for weeks. Ten years since, nearly
to a day, I found landing on any part of these shores impracticable, although
tho weather previously had been tine.

Here Vancouver tried ineffectually for water, and I was induced, by the
assertion of a master of a vessel belonging to San Bias, that wells were sunk
and good water conveniently to be had, to make this examination. It is
pot improbable that if wells were sunk water could be obtained ; but is tho
esidt worth the trouble or risk ? *

* The channel between tho two North islands (Magdalena and Maria Madro (Tres

106

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

' f

There is nothing to make it desirable for a vessel to anchor at these
islands. Upon Trinco George's Island there is said to be water of a bac
description ; but the landing is in general very hazardous. There an
passages between each of these islands. The northern channel requires m
particular directions ;* that to tlio southward of Trince George's Island i
the widest and host ; but caro must be taken of a reef lying one-third of i
mile off its S.W. point, and of a shoal extending H mile off its S.E. ex

tremity.

From the South channel Piedra de Mar bears N. 76° E., true, about 4
miles. It is advisable to steer to windward of this course, in order that, a
the winds during tho period at which it ia proper to frequent this coast bloi
from the northward, tho ship may be well to windward.

The Piedra de Mar is a white rock, about 130 feet high, and 140 yard
in length, with 12 fathoms all round it, and bears from Mount San Juan 1^
77° W., 30 miles.

Having made Piedra de Mar, pass close to the southward of it, and unlei
the weather is thick, you will see a similarly shaped rock, named Piedra d
Tierra, for which you should steer, taking care not to go to the northwai
of a line of bearing between the two, as there is a shoal which stretches i
the southward from the main land. The course will be S. 79° E., true, ai
tho distance between these two rocks is very nearly 10 miles.

SAN BIAS.— To bring up in the road of San Bias, round the Piedra (
Tierra at a cable's length distance, and anchor in 5 fathoms, with the lo
rocky point of the harbour bearing N. ^ E., and the two Piedras in on
This road is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W. to N.N.W., and shi
should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in those months in which tl
northerly winds are settled. Should the wind veer to the westward, and
gale from that quarter be apprehended, no time should be lost in slipping ai
endeavouring to get an ofRng, as a vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, ai
the holding ground is very bad. In case of necessity a vessel may cast
westward, and stand between the Piedra da Tierra and the Fort Bluff,

Marias) appears to bo quito safe, and in tho narroweBt part has from 16 to 24 fathoms wat
hut tho ground in other places is very stoop, and at 2 miles distance from the shore th
is no bottom with 100 fathoms. When tho wind is from the northward it is calm in 1
channel, and a current sometimes sets to tho southward, which renders it advisable,
leaving the channel, to take advantagi of tho eddy winds which intervene between the ci
and the true breezo to keep to the northward, to avoid being set down upon St. Goorj
Island.— Beecfieij, vol. ii. p. 584.

* The mountains above San Bias may bo seen towering above the vapour which ha
over every habitable part of the land near it. The highest of these, St, Juan, 6,230
above the soa, by trigonometrical measurement, is the best guide to the road of San B
as it may be seen at a great distance, and is seldom obscured by the fogs, while the
lands are almost always so.—Beeefiey, vol. ii. p. 684.

"' - VlH S M

ICO.

vessol to anchor at these
, said to be water of a bad
3ry hazardous. There aro
irthern channel requires no

Trince George's Island is
a reef lying one-third of a
ag H mile off its S.E. ex-

[•8 N. 76° E., true, about 45

lis course, in order that, as

■ to frequent this coast blow

idward.

30 feet high, and 140 yards

rs from Mount San Juan N.

» southward of it, and unless
aped rock, named Piedra da
3 not to go to the northward
is a shoal which stretches to
will be S. 79° E., true, and
,rly 10 miles.

m Bias, round the Piedra da
• in 5 fathoms, with the low
md the two Piedras in one.
I.S.W. to N.N.W., and ships
in those months in which the
veer to the westward, and a
should be lost in slipping and
chor is deeply embayed, and
lecessity a vessel may cast to
erra and the Fort Bluff, in

:t has from 16 to 24 fathoms water ;
lilea distance from the shore there
m the northward it is calm in this
rd, which renders it advisahlo, on
a which intervene hetween the calni
being set down upon St. George's

ing above the vapour which hangs
jhost of these, St. Juan, 6,230 feet
3e8t guide to the road of San Bias,
iscured by the fogs, while the low

SAN BLAS.

107

jrder to make a tack to the westward of the rock, after which it will not be
aecessary again to stand to the northward of a line connecting the two Piedras.

The road of San Bias should not be frequented between the months of
Hay and December, as during that period the coast is visited by storms from
the southward and westward, attended by heavy rains and thunder and
lightning. It is besides the sickly season, and the inhabitants having all
migrated to Topic, no business whatever is transacted at the port.

It is high water at San Bias at 9" 41"' full and change; rise, between 6
and 7 feet, spring tides. ^

Captain Basil Hall says : —

Having passed about 8 or 10 leagues to the southward of the group called
the Tres Marias Islands (the westernmost of which lies 54 miles West of San
Bias by chronometers), steer a N.N.E. course, until Piedra Blanca comes 'n
jif^ht, when it would be advienble to steer directly for it, and pass about a
league or two to the southward of it ; from thence you wiU see Piedra Blanca
de Tierra, which points out the harbour ; for this you may steer direct,
taking care not to go in-shore of the line of bearing of the two rocks, as a
sand-bank lies off the coast about halfway between them, to a considerable
distance, on the pitch of which there is only 2J fathoms.

The watering-place is at a well dug near the end or commencement of a
rope-walk, on the beach. The water ia sometimes brackish, but improves

by keeping.

Plenty of fish are to be caught at the anchorage, and oysters are found
clustered to the roots of the trees on the bankb of the river.

Early in June the rainy season commences with great violence, like the
monsoons of the East Indies, and continues for six months, during which
period there prevail violent squalls, a heavy rolling sea at the anchorage,
thunder and dangerous lightning, and almost constant rain. The inhabit-
ants, at this season, retire to the neighbouring town of Topic, and to other
parts of the country, not only to avoid the bad weather, but the ardent
fevers which are prevalout.

In the evenings and mornings the air is so filled with mosquitoes and sand
flies, that those periods, which otherwise would be the best to work in, are
aot the most suitable for communicating with the shore. There is always
reason, too, to apprehend the effect of marsh miasma, in the mornings and
evenings, at a spot so surrounded with swamps. There is no doubt, how-
over, that this place is extremely unhealthy at times, and every precaution,
especially against exposure at night, would be at all times of importance.

The following is by Captain Masters :— " In the rainy season, when the
wind blows strong from the southward, a heavy swell set* in at San Bias,
and as there is nothing to protect the anchorage, it must be felt very se-
verely ; but I never heard of any damage having been done to the shipping
in consequence.

108 WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

« There is somo advantage in a vesaol lying outside in the roads during
the rainy season, for there the crews have purer air to breathe ; and proba-
bly it might be more healthy than that of the port, besides being partially
clear of mosquitoes and other tormentors of the same cast, which are very
numerous. The crew also are easier kept on board. But if the ship has to
discharge her own cargo, the expenses of doing it wiU be considered ; and if
her long boat is too small for that purpose, the launch, which must be hired,
will most likely bo manned by the crew ; so that they are more liable to be-
come ill, and being more exposed to the rain and sun, than if a vessel was in
the port ; and in the next place, their meals would not be very regular ; they
would also get spirits by some means, whoever was in charge of the boat or
launch (providing that ho should be even disposed to prevent it), whenever
she went on shore.

" There are 13 foot water on the bar of San Bias, in the shallowest part
of the entrance, and very seldom loss even in the neaps. By giving the
point which forms the harbour a berth of 15 or 20 fathoms, you will avoid a
a large stone, which is awash at low water, and is about 8 fathoms from the
dry part of the rocks or breakwater. As soon as you are so far in that the
innermost or eastern part of the breakwater is in a Uno with the other part
of it inside, which runs to the N.N.E., it may be approached to within 10 or
15 fathoms, and by keeping well off from the low sandy point on the
starboard hand as you warp up the harbour, you will have the deepest water.
But as the sea sometimes in the rainy season (although but seldom) breaks
over the breakwater which forms the harbour, it would be best to moor close
under the high part of the land on which the old ruins of a fort stand, with
the ship's head up the river, and a bower laid off to the eastward, and an
anchor from the starboard quarter, from the larboard side to the shore,
either by taking an anchor out or making fast to the rocks. It would be
next to impossible that any accident could happen to the ship ; the cargo
can also be discharged with dispatch, and immediately under the eye of the
master or mate, as the place whero the cargo is landed would be about 100
fathoms from the ship. The ship's long-boat would do more inside than two
launches if she was outside ; and besides, when the sea is heavy in the
roads, the discharging of the cargo could go on. As there are no established
pilots here, it would be advisable to engage a person to point out where the
stone lays. The captain of the port is the best to apply to, and if he does
not come off himself, would most likely recommend a person.

Care must be taken in standing in for the land not to go to leeward of
San Bias, as there is a strong southerly current along the coast, especially
off Cape Corrientes.* If possible, keep San Bias on an E.N.E. bearing. The

> 'Captain Bccchoy came to San Bias from the northward, and on approaching it found
himself more to leeward than he was aware, in consequence of the current setting out of

SAN BLA8.

100

roads during
; and proba-
3ing partially
'hich are very
e ship has to
dered ; pnd if
aust be hired,
I liable to be-
, vessel was in
regular ; they
)f the boat or
it), whenever

lallowest part
By giving the
u will avoid a
loms from tho
'ar in that the
the other part

within 10 or
point on the
deepest water,
leldom) breaks
it to moor close
jrt stand, with
tward, and an

1 to the shore,

It would be
hip ; the cargo

the eye of the
I be about 100
inside than two
i heavy in the
3 no established
t out where the

and if he does

) to leeward of
Goast, especially
1. bearing. The

iproaching it found
rent setting out of

Tros Marias Islauds, of I tho port of San Lias, nro convenient points for
inakinir; and lierri a master rf.njd Jcavo his vessel in perfect safety to water
while he communicated with his consignees, or got his overland letters from
his owners at homo. Thero is a safo mid-channel course botwoon the middle
and southern islands. Wo brought a saddle-shaped hill on tho main a little
South of San Bias, one point open of the South island, and steered by com-
pass N.E. by E.

The two Piedra Erancas, that of De Mar and De la Tierra, are excellent
marks for the roadstead. A good anchorage for vessels awaiting orders (for
which purpose San Bias is now almost alone visited, except by English
men-of-war, and Yankee clippers for smuggling purposes) will be found
with Piedra Branca de Mar, N. 70° W., De la Tierra, N. 43° W., and viUage
in the Estero, N. 26° W.

Since the days of Hall and Beochey, the town of San Bias has very much
changed. Its population of 20,000 have dwindled to 3,000, and their un-
wholesome appearance fully accounts for tho decrease of residents; and
nearly all its trade has been transferred to its rival, Mazatlan.

The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, owned by
an English merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries, and a
cargo or two of cotton ; which petty trade is carried on during tho six healthy
months in the year.

The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, almost perpendi-
cular to seaward, and its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom-house ; but
this being about three-quarters of a mile distant from the beach, a largo
assemblage of huts has been formed at the landing-place in the Estero del
Arsenal, for the convenience of supplying the shipping.

In tho Estero del Arsenal, small craft of less than 10 ft. draught will find
convenient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The watering-place is
at least 3 miles distant from the above anchorage, and to assist tho boats in
this heavy work, it would always be advisable to shift the vessel into such a
position that they miglit make a fair wind off and on whilst the daily sea-
breeze blows.

The watering-place is at the nortliorn extremity of a large open bay South
of San Bias. The beach is shoal, and the casks have to be rolled three or
four hundred yards through the jungle to a stream of water. The stream
during the spring tides is liable to be found brackish, but even then we suc-
ceeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask with the bung in
such a position that only the fresh water (which of course would be on the
surface) could enter.

the gulf. To save time ho passed between the two northernmost islands, and in doing so
was becalmed for several hours, fully verifying the old proveil) that the longest wav round
IS often tho shortest way home.— j5w/,«y, vol. ii, p. 584.

IjQ WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

. By rigging triangles with Bpars in such a position that the boats could go

under them to load, we succeeded in embarking daily 32 tons of water.

Many useful and ornamental woods are to be l-^^^^'^^ -^ ^^^'^'J^
the mere trouble of cutting, especially lignum vit». Fresh beef we found
good in quaUty. Game moderately plentiful ; oysters good and abundan ,
vegetables scarce and expensive. The climate may be summed up by the

•word execrable. „ » i *„ «„„ l^lns

Mr. JeiTery, E.N., thus describes his passage from Acapulco to San Bias

which will form a fitting supplement to the preceding :-

On the 8th of December, 1833. we weighed with a 'B^^*;--^--?';^^!'^^
enabled us to work out of the harbour. Towards the f --". ^^^^^^
increased from the westward, and continued to blow f^sh for t^^^^^^^^^^^^^
which is considered unusual on this part of the coas . ^e -ere nearly 60 or
70 miles off the land, and for the next ten days had no hmg but ca ms and
light variable airs alternately, and the ^-^her excessively hot and sultry
A^ last we got in with the land, about 100 miles West of Acapulco. -d on
L 21st were off Point Tejupan. The only remarkable objects on thxs p^^
of the coast are the Paps of Tejupan ; they are two sharp hUls o-jy^^
land. We now found the good effects of being close in shore, and I think
it advisable for vessels making this passage to keep as near the land as
possible, for in the daytime we had a regular broe.. from ^1^-- ^^^^^^^^^
fell light about sunset, and then about 10 or 11 o'clock the l^nd-We
would come from the N.E. The advantage of keeping in-shore can seldom
I doubted when we consider that vessels ai-e frequently 40 or 50. and some-
times 60 days making this passage, through not keeping near the land^
Between Tejupan and Cape Conientes we found a -"^'^Vl ^ witMn
land to the Westward from 12 t. 15 miles a day. On the 28th. when^ with^
30 miles of the harbour, we had very heavy ram and thick wea her , we
a r" d on the 29th. and made the passage in 21 days. After rounding Cor
r"ntes. if the weather is clear, you will see the saddle mountain near San
Bias; and to the N.W. of it another high mountain, -^l\-«7;^;^^

peak'at its N.W. extremity If you ^^f J^* \^^ ^ tTer^ IS
sulit in two, but to the eye it appears as one. i his is so very

S 1 oulh n.,er to be Ltak»n, a, ther, is nothing li^» >' - 'k'" Vf °
ZLt When ft. above peaked mountain bear. N.E. tUe anchoiago »l

San Bias will bear N.E. also. , /■ +!,„ ^„„-ia .

The watering-place at San Bias is in a bay to the eastward of the roads
you have to landl casks and roll them about 300 yards through die wo d
La river. At high water it is rather brackish, but at aU other times the
water is exceUent. Wood is very plentiful. •„„ ti^^f in-

The fine season lasts from December to May inclusive. During that n
terval the sky is always clear, no rain falls, land ^^^ «.«f ^^^^ P"!^^' '
7i, as there is no sickness, the town i« crowded with inhabitants. Prom

) boats could go
i of water,
i on shore, for
I beef we found
and abundant ;
imed up by the

ilco to San Bias

oa-breeze, which
ernoon the wind
for thirty hours,
vero nearly 60 or
ig but calms and
y hot and sultry.
Icapulco, and on
jects on this part
liills on very high
hore, and I think
near tho land as
the westward. It
I tho land-breeze
■shore can seldom
) or 50, and some-
ig near the land,
setting along the
28th, when within
hick weather; we
ftor rounding Cor-
lountain near San
with a remarkable
lass it will appear

very remarkable
te it on this part of
3. the anchorage at

ward of the roads ;

1 through tho woods
all other times the

g. During that in-
lea-breezes prevail ;
inhabitants. From

,a<':xL'_ .•t»-.

SAN BLAS, ETC.

Ill

June to November a very different order of things tukon place ; the heat is
greatly increased, the sky becomes overcast, tho soa and land-breozes no
longer blow, but iu their stead hard wtorms swoop along tho coast, and ex-
cessive rains deluge the country, with occasional violent squalls of wind,
accompanied by thunder and lightning. During this period San Bias is
rendered uninhabitable, in consequence of the sickness and of tho violence of
the rain, which not only drenches the whole town, but by Hooding tho sur-
rounding country, renders the rock on which the town is built literally au
island. The whole rainy season, indeed, is sickly, but more especially so
towards the end, when the rain becomes less violent and loss frequent, while
the intense heat acts with mischievous effect on tho saturated soil, and raises
an atmosphere of malaria such as the most seasoned native cannot breathe
with impunity.

This being ivariably the state of the climate, nearly all the inhabitants
abandon the town as soon as the rainy season approaches, that is, by the end
of May.

The whole of the coast about San Bias, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, is per-
fectly clear, and may be approached to within a short distance.

Tho year is divided into the two seasons described above. It must be
remarked that the change occurs gradually, and its period varies. During
the dry season the weather is constantly fine. The winds blow regularly
during the day from N.W. and W., following the direction of tho coast, and
then give place during the night to a slight land-breeze or calms. The
r^iny season, which commences in June, is then indicated by calms and slight
showers of rain. As tho season advances the showers become heavier, and
instead of beginning at night, they do so in the afternoon, and terminate by
violent storms, accompanied with very dangerous lightning and thunder, the
fierce winds blowing from all points of tlie compass. The weather keeps of
this nature until the end of September, and it sometimes oocurs that the
season terminates by a terrible hurricane, which generally occut's fiom the
1st to the 5th of October, the festival of St. Francis. Those hurr-canes,
which always blow from S.E. to S.W., are of short duratiorj, but they are
so violent, and raise such a heavy sea, that nothing can resist them. They
aro called in the country the Cordonazo do San Francisco (tho lash with St.
Francis's cord or belt). A vessel surprised when at anchor ought to slip her
cables, or cut the moorings, and make sail. At the approach of the cordo-
nazo she ought to gain an offing, or if obliged to keep in the road, to moor
at such a distance off shore that she can easily get under sail on the first in-
timations of its approach. These observations are not applicable to road-
steads entirely open, but such ought to be avoided during the months of
September and October. Sometimes the cordonazo occurs later than St.
Francis's day; thus, on the 1st of November, 1839, twelve ships, who
thought it had passed, were surprised iu the Fort of Mazatlan, and the

112

Wl'ST COXH'i: OF MEXICO.

Rrcator part wcro lost, nncl nil perisliod. On tho 1st of Novombor, 181(1,
tbroo vessols wero lost iu tlio rouJ of Sau UIuh, and Bovuml peoplo wero
drowned, without it being possible to render them nny nsBistnnco.

A monsoon has boon observed on tlioN.W. coast of Mexico, and in tlio
Gulf of California, arising imui tho invei:'<ion of tfw trade wimh. In reality,
this wJad, almost constantly blowing from the N.E. in tho Atlantic, in tht
parts North of tho equator, is hero supplanted by ono from tho S.W., and
evon by winds directly from the AVcst. This inversion, which only prevails
in the Vermilion Sea, is not experienced on the Californian coast, washed by
the Pacific beyond tho latitude of 23" North.

At 20 leagues N.W. of San Bias, in front of the mouth of tho Rio San
Pedro, lies the little isle hahel or Inabella.

Isabel Island is of moderate height, and nearly barren ; tho herbage and
grasses aro scarcely to be distinguished. Neitlier water nor wood are to bo
got from it. Tho beach is lined with rock.s, with the exception of a small
sandy cove, open to tho West, where boats may bo hauled np on tho shore.
This island is only frequented by sealers. It is about a mile in length, and
has two conspicuous needle rocks near its eastern end, in lat. 21° 15' 10" N.,
long. 105" 51' 35".

In lat. 22" 25' N. the small hills of Bagona are seen ; and anchorage
may be found in 8 fathoms near tho N.W. point, sheltered from the N.E.
winds. The month of tho 2iio Bagona is designated under tho name of the
Boca de Teacapan or Tecapan. At 8 leagues further North, the hillocks of
C/iametla ai-e seen. The AVest point of the liio Chametla, or Bel Jiosario, is in
lat. 22° 50' N. It was in the small port formed by its continuation that
Hernan de Cortes embarked, April 15th, 1535, on his voyage to discover
California. A mile outside the depth is 8 and !) fathoms.

On tho coast several large farms are seen after leaving San Bias. These
aro the haciendas, Bel Mar, San Andres, Santa Cruz, 'Teacapan, and Bel Pal-
mito. Bullocks may be bought at them for 8 piastres, and some vegetables.
The water of all tho rivers is good, and fine wood very abundant.

MAZATLAN lies 40 leagues from San Bias, and has supplanted the latter
in its commerce, and consequent importance. It was surveyed in 1827 by
Captain Beechey, who places the extreme bluff of Creston Island, lying off
it, in lat. 23° 11' 40" N., long. lOG" 23' 45" W., variation 10" 18' E.

The harbour of Mazatlan is entirely open to the winds which are most
dangerous in the rainy season. It is formed by a bay, in tho centre of which
Btands the town, but small vessels only can approach it. Larger ships an-
chor to the southward, under the lee of the Island of Creston, a. small but very
high island, forming the North side of the road. It is of a roundish form,
and green at the top, but is perpendicular seaward, so that it appears only
as a white cliff. Creston is separated from another island by a narrow
rocky channel, and this last from the main land by a cable's length. In

vombor, 181(1,
al peoplo woro
nco.

CO, and in tlio
k. In reality,
itlantic, in tlit
the S.W., and
\i only prevailH
ast, Mashed by

)f tho Eio San

10 herbage and
vood arc to bo
ition of a small
p on tho shore,
in length, and
21° 15' 10' N.,

and anchorage
from tho N.E.
10 name of the
the hillocks of
)el Jiosario, is in
ntinuation that
ago to discover

u Bias. These

n, and Del Pal-

omo vegetables,

lant.

[anted tho latter

lyed in 1827 by

'sland, lying off

18' E.

which are most
I centre of which
arger ships an-
a small but very
I roundish form,

it appears only
id by a narrow
le's length. In

MAZATLAN.

lliJ

approaching ISfazatlau, Croaton vrill bo tho first made out, .seomingly de-
tached from tho coast. At 4 and 5 miles N.W. of it aro two islets, called
Inks de los Pujaros and Le los Venation, which at a distance will appear liko
two patches on tho coast, and will also servo to make out tho anchorage, fur
it is tho only point on this part of tho coast where thoro is a group of
islands. Tho anchorage used is that to tho South of Creston, but tho islets
form between them and tho main land another road, formerly used by tho
Spaniards, which is much to bo preferred in tho rainy season. It is shel-
tered from the South and S. W. winds, which prevail from tho middle of Juno
till the end of October, and blow heavily at times, and gives it tho advan-
tage of getting away between tho islets, or between them and tho coast ; b>it
as the prevalent N.W. winds of the dry season blow right into it, and raise
Buch a heavy sea on tho beach, that landing goods, &c., is a very difficult
task, tho anchorage South of Creston, where these inconveniences are not
felt, is preferred.

Tho port of Mazatlan has been opened to foreign commerco for many
years. Under tho Spanish dominion it was unknown, but on tho proclama-
tion of the Mexican independence it was placed on a diireront footing ; and
Captain Sir E. Lelcher says, that between his former visit in 1827 and that
in 1839, it had increased from a village to a town.

The oiflcial name which was applied to it by the Mexican government is
Za Villa de los Castillos. Its population is less during the rainy season, but
rises to 14,000 or 15,000 at tho dry season, or when tho vessels arrive. It
has a very picturesque appearance both from land and sea, tho houses being
all light coloured, and in tho better parts of tho town handsome and
commodious, tho stylo being that of the old Castiliau, .suitable to the hot
climate.

Ships ought to get their water in tho peninsula which forms the South
side of the road ; everywhere else it is brackish. Altliougli Mnzatlan is less
unhealthy than San lilas, severe fevers are common during tlio rainy season.
Commanders sliould be strict in not allowing their men to run into any ex*
cesses, which are highly dangerous.

At 10 leagues to eastward of the port, on the road leading to San Bias and
Topic, and 3 leagues from the sea, is tho old Presidio of Mnzatlan. There
are no vestiges of the fortification, and the fine barracks built by tho
Spaniards only serve now to shelter a few cavalry soldiers. Tho Rio do Ma-
zatlan, which runs near the Presidio, falls into tho harbour.

Captain Shorard Osborn, E.N., spealcs rather more favourably of tho

climate. He says (184G) : — Tho coasters run up the river to tho new town

of Mazatlan, which has risen to considerable importance within a very recent

period, notwithstanding the disadvantages it labours under from tho paucity

Norfh Pacific. I

.HMjjWajt I j - V^'^M B - ' i -■■.^lijt.^'jS^ ' -?' ^

114 WEST C0A8T OF MEXICO.

of Bupplios, both animal and vogotnMo, and from the water being both bad
ond wnrcc. Mnzathin is now tlio outh't for tho products of tho vahiablo
mining dinfrict of San Sol: stian, and imports diroctly hirgo cnrgocH of
English goods. Tho gcnorol iK-althincss of tho climate, as compared with
its noiglilioiir San IWixh, Iuim matorially tended to an increase of its popula-
tion. The town, from being built on tho crest of some heights, clear of
mangrove and swamp, had an air of cleanliness and puro ventilation rare in
this part of America. Vossols invariably moor in tho roadstead, open hawso
to W.S.W., and too close a berth to Creston Island is not advisable, as the
squalls sweep over it with great strength.

Capt. lloochoy's directions are as follow : —

Tho anchorage at Mnzatlan, at the mouth of tho Gulf of California, in tho
ovent of a gale from tlio Houth-westward, ia nioro unsafe than that at Sau
Bias, as it is necessary to anchor so doso to tho shore, that there is not
room to cast and make a tack. Merchant vessels moor hero with tho deter-
mination of riding out tho weather, and for this purpose go well into tho
bay. Very few accidents, however, have occurred, either hero or at San
Bias, as it scarcely over blows from the (luarter to which these roads aro
open, between May and December.

There is no danger whatever on tho coast between Piedro de Mar and
Mazatlan ; tho land is a sure guide. Tho Island of Isabel is steep, and has
no danger at tho distance of a quarter of a mile. It is a small island, about
a mile in length, with two remarkable noodle rocks near tho shore, to the
eastward of it.

Boating up along the coast of Sonora, some low hills, of which two or
throe aro shaped like cones, will bo seen upon tho sea-shore. The first of
these is about 9 leagues South of Mazatlan, and within view of the island of
Creston, which forms the Port of Mazatlan. A current sots to the southward
along this coast, at the rate of 18 or 20 miles a day.

Having approached the coast about the lat. of 23° U'N., Creston and
some other steep rocky islands will bo seen. Creston is the highest of these,
and may bo further known by two small islands, Venado and Pajaros, to the
northward of it, having a white, chalky appearance. Steer for Creston, and
pass between it and a small rock to the southward, and when inside the
bluif, luff up and anchor immediately, in about 7^ fathoms, tho small rock
about S. 17'' E., and the bluff W. by S. Both this bluff and the rock may
be passed within a quarter of a cable's length. Tho rock has from 12 to 15
fathoms within 30 yards of it in every direction. It is, however, advisable
to keep at a little distance from the bluff, to escupo the eddy M-inds. After
having passed it, be careful not to shoot much to the northward of the
before-mentioned bearing (W. by S.), as tho water shoals suddenly, or to

being both bad
af tlin viihiablo
rgM cnrgocH of
cumpurod with
J of itH popula-
oights, clear of
itihition riiro in
nd, open hawBO
ivisablo, as the

alifornia, in the
un that at Sau
lat there is not
with the detor-
[0 well into the
hore or at San
theuu roads are

dro de Mar and

9 steop, and has
ill island, about

10 shore, to the

)f which two or
e. The first of
of the island of

the southward

S., Creston and
lighest of these,

1 Pajaros, to the
for Creston, and
iv^hen inside the
I, the small rock
,d the rock may
as from 12 to 15
Tover, advisable
ly winds. After
orthward of the

suddenly, or to

MAZATLAN.

lis

reach so far to tho eastward as to open the U'tjuf tanpont of the peninmla,
with tht) eimfern point of a low rocky island S. W. of it, as that will bo near n
dangorouH rock (tho Jilossom Jiock), nearly in the centre of the anchorngo,
with only 1 1 foot water upon it at low spring tidt's, and with doop wator all
round it. There may be a buoy upon it ; but should this b(- waxhod away,
its situation may bo known by tho eastern oxtroi; o of tho boforo-inontionod
low rocky island (between which and Battery Peak there is a channel for
small vessels) boing in one with a wedge-shaped protuberance on the western
hillock of tho northern island (about 3 miles Nortii of Creston), and tho
N.W. oxtron."ty of the high rocky island to tho eastward of the anchorage
being a little open with a rock off tho mouth of tho river in tho N.E. The
South tangent of this island will also be open a little (4"), with a dark tablo
hill on tho second range of mountains in the East. These directions will, I
think, be quite intelligible on tho spot.

The winds at Mazatlan generally blow fresh from tho N.W. in the evon-
icg ; the sea-breeze springs up about 10 in tho forenoon, and lasts until two
o'clock in the morning.

It is high water at this place at O*" 50™, full and change ; rise, 7 feet,
spring tides.

To these may be added the following extract from the remarks by the
Front h Admiral Du Petit Thenars :—

In approaching Mazatlan there is no difficulty. Tho latitude of the port
mu'^^*^^ bo gained, or rather a few minutes to tho North of it, on account of
ihe currents which generally run strong out of tho Gulf of California, and
which would thus send a ship to leeward of tho port. In clear weather tho
land may be seen at 40 or 50 miles off, and, if you are on tho parallel of
Mazatlan, the first which will be seen will appear in the N.E., the N.E. J E.,
or E.N.E., according to the distance. Nearing the land it will be seen
successively extending towards the South as far as E., and oven as E.S.E.
From the offing nothing can be made out. The land on tho shores is gene-
rally very low, and, in the first instance, only the interior high land will be
seen ; and it is only when you are within 18 or 20 miles of the coast, for
example, that its different points can be distinguished. The islands of
Creston, Venado, and Pajaros will be made out ; the first seen is Creston. As
soon as all uncertainties of the position of Mazatlan cease, steer either for tho
anchorage of Venado or that of Creston.

In proceeding for Venado, with the ordinary winds of the season, steer for
the S.W. point of Venado Island, carefully looking out for and avoiding a
small rock awash, called the Laxa, which lies about 200 yards from this
point, and does not always break : after having passed this rock, which may
be done within a hundred yards, bear more to the northward to enter the

■^■^^seg^gegg'y^satsg aiW:*'''j ^^^is?^?^iJgvi><cga5&:5^^''rr's

116

WEST COAST OF MEXICO.

Lay, and bring ,the S.W. point of Venado to boar West, or even W.S.W.,
according as you intend to anclior more or less within the bay.*

The subsequent description and directions are by Captain Masters, who
wo have beforo quoted. It must be premised, liowever, that his names
differ in eomo low points from those of the Admiralty chart. We have
therefore altered thorn to agree with that, leaving the originals within
parentheses.

Mazatlan is a port very easily made. It is formed by a cluster of islands ;
to the southward of thoni is a long lino of beach, with low land, thiokly
covered with trees, running several miles in before it reaches the foot of the
mountains, and continues the same as far to the southward as the North side
of the bar of Tecapan, where the land is high.

The port of Mazatlan, at its entrance, is formed by the island of Creston
on its western, and Ciervo Island on the eastern side. From the sea the
former has nearly a regular ascent, the length of the island lying from East
to West, where it terminates in an abrupt precipice, and is covered with
small trees. It has from 8 to 10 fathoms water to within a few fathoms of
it. The Island of Ciervo has a verj' similar appearance, and is about half
the height of Creston, being partially covered with treep. These islands can
be seen several miles before the land at the back of the town makes its ap-
pearance. The outer rock is situated well outside the roadstead, and .forms
nearly an equilateral triangle with the islands of El Creston and Ciervo ;
it is about 8 feet high, and nearly the jame in breadth, and from 7 to
8 fathoms long from North to South. There are 5 fathoms water close
to it.

At two-thirds of a mile N.W. of Creston are two islets called the Mrth
and South Hermanos, lying S.W. and N.E. of each other, and a quarter of a
mile apart. There is a small reof off the East point of the former. At a
quarter of a mile W.N.W. of the latter is the Tortugas Eock, about 2 feet
above water, and apparently not more than 20 or 30 feet long.

In tho excellent plan of the harbour of Mazatlan the soundings in gene-
ral are very correct ; but tlie stranger, iu couiiug to an anchor in the night
time, should not attempt to pass within the line from tho outer part of El
Creston to El Ciervo, but anchor outside in from 9 to 12 fathoms, where ho
will find sand and mud. Within the port is a long Sand, which extends out
fron. tho bottom of it, a great part of which is di-y at low water, and is shoal
for some distanca to tho S.E,, extending nearly as far as tho Island of
Ciervo, with a boat channel between it and the island. The inner anchorage
is to the westward of this sand. It is said that the bank is increasing, and
that the port has filled very much within a few years past.

Du Petit Thuuiu's, Voyage du Venm, Vol. ii, pp. 175-6.

ffrvH

it, or even W.S.W.,
bay.*

iptain Mastorf], who
)ver, that his names
by chart, We have
the originals within

■ a cluster of islands ;
th low land, thiokly
jaches the foot of the
ard as the North side

the island of Creston
B. From the sea the
land lying from East

and is covered with
thin a few fathoms of
,ce, and is about half
p. These islands can
9 town makes its ap-
roadstead, and forms
Creston and Ciervo ;
eadth, and from 7 to

fathoms water close

islets called the North
sr , and a quarter of a
of the former- At a
is Eock, about 2 feet
let long.

\Q soundings in geno-
ti anchor in the night
L the outer part of El
12 fathoms, where he
nd, which extends out
ow water, and is shoal
, far as tho Island of
[. The inner anchorage
lank is increasing, and
past.

pp. 175-6.

rOKT OF MAZATLAN.

117

In tho summer season largo vessels anchor between the two islands at
about a third the distance from Creston to Ciervo, and moor East and West.
The depth of ^vater is from 7 to 9 fathoms, sand and muddy bottom. A
vessel drawing 12 feet water might go in.sido to the minor anchorage without
the least risk ; but, as the pilot has launches to get employed, he cannot bo
persuaded to take a vessel in even drawing 9 feet.

North of the island of Creston, and between it and the main land, is tho
island of Azada (Gomez), which is low, and is separated from Creston by a
narrow boat channel. From about the middle of Azada a bar extends to the
eastward across tho port nearly to the sand-bank already mentioned. The
pilot informed me that there wore patches of shoal water on it when the
water was low, not having more than 6 feet on them, which might bo tho
case ; but where I sounded there was not less than 12 feet. Inside the bar
it deepens to 4 or 5 fathoms, and close up to tho town, abreast of the
custom-house, ut low water, there are from 2^ to 3 fathoms, with a sandy
bottom.

When the wind blows strong from the N.W, there is a short chop of a
sea heaves in between the island of Gomez and Point Pala (Calandare),
although the distance they are apart is short, but by anchoring, as already
mentioned, opposite Creston, most of it is avoided.

In tha rainy season it is very unsafe to lay inside, as gales come on from
the southward, which bring in a heavy sea. Vessels of all sizes anchor in
this season in the outer roads, between the islands and the outer rocks, from
which they can be got under way, and stand clear of the coast.

To the northward of the present port of Mazatlan, about 5 miles, is the
N.W. Port of Mazatlan. It is a very fine bay, and well sheltered from tho
N.W. winds by Venado and Pajaros Islands. It was in the southern part
of this bay that vessels formerly discharged their cargoes, but the present
port being more secure, it was established in its stead.

Watering is attended with great risk at all times in this place, especially
at full and change, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of the bar
formed between a long spit which runs down the centre of tho river, and a
bank joining it from the South shore. Several boats and lives are annually
lost here. In pulling in care should be taken to cross tho surf pretty close
to the middle ground, and, when through the first rollers, to pull over to tho
South shore, and keep it onboard up to the watering place. In coming out
no casJcs ought to be allowed in tho head sheets, everything depending upon
the buoyancy of the boat.

The water is procured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on a low
alluvial island, formed on a quicksand in the bed of the river ; none of them
are coneequontly more than 10 feet deep. The water is by no means sweet,

-■mm^mMmsmmm'm^^^^^^'^^^^^^^^^^^'^^^^^'^^^^'^-

118

WEST COAST OP MEXICO.

being merely sea-water, which undergoes a partial purification in filtering
through the soil.

A pilot is always in attendance ; pilotage If dollar per foot, and 5 dollars
for the assistance of a boat. There are 12 feet on the bar, but 18 feet inside.
Discharging costs about 1 dollar 50 cents per ton, and is always at the mer-
chant's expense, Tonnage dues 1 dollar per ton when loaded, in ballast,
free. Labour 2 dollars per day. Sand ballast 1 J dollar per ton ; stone ditto
2i dollars. Water 3d. per gallon. Beef 12 cents per lb. Weights and
measures are the same as those of Spain.

imM

»ii in filtering

and 5 dollars
18 feet inside.
ys at the mer-
ed, in ballast,
tn ; stone ditto
Weights and

CHAPTER III.

THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER CALIFOENIA.

When Cortes had conquered Mexico, the Spanish emperor (Charloa V.)
granted him great titles of honour, but limited his authority to the idle com-
mand of troops reduced to inaction. Thus confined, his ardent spirit entered
into new projects of extending the knowledge of the hitherto all but unknown
countries in the West. In one of these expeditions California was first dis-
covered by Fortun Ximenes, the pilot of the La Concepcion, a vessel sent by
Cortes to explore the coast to the N.AV. of Acapulco. Ximenes having mur-
dered the captain (Diego Bezerro), in November, 1533, to avoid the conse-
quences sailed to the N.W., and anchored in a port which is probably on the
Gulf of California, and was attacked and slain by the Indians on shore.
This appears to have been the first discovery of California.

The Gulf of California was first formally explored by Francisco de Ulloa,
by direction of Cortes. He had under him three vessels, which sailed from
Acapulco in July, 1539. This was the last expedition of discovery in which
Cortes was concerned.

The name of California is of uncertain origin. It is not known to have
been used by the natives in any part of the country. It has been conjectured
that it is derived from the heat of the weather experienced here by Cortes,
but of this we are not told. By some it is thouglit that it is derived from a
custom prevalent throughout Oahfornia, of the Indians shutting themselves
in ovens until they perspire profusely. It is not improbable that the custom
appeared so singular to Cortes, that he gave it the name in consequence. It
has also been considered as a corruption of colofon, the Spanish term for
resin ; the pine trees yielding it being in such profusion hero.

The peninsula is sometimes called Old or Vieja California, in contradis-
tinction to Nueva or New California, the later discovery, hence the appella-
tion. California Baja, or Lower, is also a term of some antiquity ; and the
distinction of Baja and Alta, Lower and Upper, seems to be that now more

r" "gg5l« ^ 'j ^ r ^

120 LOWER CALIFORNIA.

generally recognised, Bince the United States have denominated their portion
of the territory from its higher latitude.

During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, large quantities of pearls
wore procured by the Spanish adventurers, and these pearl fisheries in the
Gulf of California increased in fame.

At the period of its greatest prosperity, about 600 to 800 divers were em-
ployed ; the fishery being carried on in small vessels of 15 to 30 tons burden.
In 1831 four tolerably large vessels, from Mexico, with 180 divers, together
obtained pearls to the value of £2,660.*

Tho PENINSULA has remained, until quite recently, almost unknown to
the civilised world, and its Spanish possessors have done nothing to explore
its capabilities, in all the centuries it has been in their possession. The
maps, therefore, have been strangely defective. But since Upper Cali-
fornia has been developed into one of the most prosperous countries in the
world, a new interest in it has been created. This led to the purchase of the
central portion of the peninsula by a New York Trading Company of the
Mexican Republican chief, Juarez, in 1866. An exploring expedition,
consisting of Mr. J. Ross Brown, Mr. W. M. Gabb, and Dr. Ferdinand
Lochr, was organised in 1867, and wo now know from their report much
more of the poninsula.f

The inhabitants are not more than 6,000 in number, chiefly half-castes, in
whom Indian blood predominates, and this is the entire population of an
area 540 miles long by 50 in average breadth. The land of the peninsula
gradually slopes, or forms a succession of plateaux, from the shores of the
Pacific to within a few miles of the eastern coast, where it terminates in
abrupt precipices, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in height, facing the Gulf of
California. This singular conformation suggests the idea that tho peninsula
forms only one-half of a mountain range, divided longitudinally, of which
the corresponding or eastern half has disappeai-ed along the depression of
the gulf. The narrow tract between the foot of the high escarpment and the
gulf shores is broken in+ ridges and valleys, forming a sort of undercliff,
and clothed with a luxuriant semi-tropical vegetation.

• The most valuable pfcarla in tho possession of the court of Spain -wero found in the
gulf in 1615 and 1665, in the expeditions of Juan Yturbi and Bornal de Pinadero. During
tho stay of the Visitador Galvcz in California, in 1768 and 1769, a private soldier in the
presidio of Loreto, Juan Ocio, was mado rich in a short time by pearl fishing on the coast
of Ceralvo. Since that period the numbers of pearls of California brought annually to
market wore almost reduced to nothing. Tho Indians and negroes who followed the severe
occupation of divers have been frequently drowned, and often devoured by sharks. The
divers have always been poorly paid by tho whiteB.—Alcedo, 1768—69.

t Offici:)! Koport on tho mineral resources of tho United States for 1868, by Mr. Ross
Brown, page 630. The work contains much valuable geographical information.

*''«^*ftaM ^l W l M t 3*'< *''^^*T'*l»** W * ■ ' ■«■*' ■ * » '«i W > l W #l»W>Wi'W LW

>j^

GULF OF CALIFOENIA.

121

a their portion

titioB of pearls
sheries in the

rers were om-
10 tons burden,
ivers, together

st unknown to
ing to explore
ssession. The
e Upper Cali-
luntries in the
jurchase of the
ompany of the
ag expedition,
Dr. Ferdinand
r report much

I half-castes, in
)pulation of an
f the peninsula
3 shores of the
t terminates in
ng the Gulf of
it the peninsula
nally, of which
e depression of
irpment and the
rt of undercUff,

■were found in the
Pinadero. During
ivate soldier in the
shing Oft the coast
lought annually to
followed the sovoro
cd by Bharke. The

1868, by Mr. Koss
irmution.

The rocks of this long mountain range are of modern geological date, or
tiio tertiary period, but the southern and northern portions are differently
constituted. Here the slope and escarpment are replaced by a chain of
granitic mountains. In the South, the peak of St. Lazaro rises to a height
of 6,000 feet, being the highest point. Most of the central part is bare of
trees. One half the population is concentrated in the picturesque valleys of
the granite range in the South, where the flourishing silver mines of Triumfo
are situated. There are here throe or four small towns, but in the rest of
the territory only small scattered villages and mission stations aro to bo mot
with.

There ore some tolerable harbours, but, from the foregoing reasons, they are
ineligible for the site of large towns. It is said to bo rich in minerals, and
near its South extremity there are said to be some rich argentiferous lead mines,
but these and others have been comparatively little worked. Timber, and
indeed vegetation itself, is verj' scarce, by far the largest portion of tlie sur-
face being incapable of producing a single blade of corn. In some of the
sheltered valleys fruits suitable to a warm climate have been successfully
cultivated, and wine has been made and exported. Cattle are rather more
numerous than would have been supposed, as they food ou the leaves of the
musquito tree, a species of acacia. Some observations of the climate of the
gulf are given presently ; but for the land it may bo said to be exces-
sively hot and dry. Unlike Mexico, the rains, except in the most south-
erly parts of the peninsula, occur during the winter months ; summer rains
scarcely occur North of Loreto. Near lat. 26" violent earthquakes are not
vmcommon.

In the subsequent descriptions the works of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher, of
H.M.S. Blossom, who surveyed several of its ports ; that of Du Petit Thouars ;
of M. Duflot de Mofras ; the voyage of Captain George Vancouver, in 1793,
and the interesting volumes by Dr. Wm. Bell, 1869, &c., have been
consulted.

The GULF OF CALIFORNIA may be considered to terminate on the
South at Mazatlan and Cape St. Lucas. These points have been geographi-
cally fixed by modern science, and Guaymas also, farther North, has been
determined. Dr. Coulter, and Lieutenant -Colonel Emory, U.S.E., made
some observations on the Eio Colorado at its head, and the result of these
determinations has been to remove the Gulf further to the East than had been
previously exhibited on the charts, thus giving the peninsula a greater
breadth than it had been supposed to have ; but this cannot be considered as
finally determined.

This gulf was designated by the first Spanish navigators under the name
of the Eed or Vermilion Sea {Mar Rojo, Mar Vermejo), on account of the
colour of its waters, and for its resemblance to the Eed Sea of Arabia.
The learned Jesuit missionaries traversed it entirely, calling it Sem or Mar

'Hsmm0ffmm!imii<!«K&e,yf':^>»3i!«sim^\

122 THE GULF OF CALIFOENIA.

Launtaneo, Gulf or Sea of Loreto, in honour of the Virgin, their protector
and patroness, and it has been called the Sea of Cortes, from the great

general.

The length of the gulf is about throo hundred leagues ; its greatest breadth
is 60 leagues at its entrance ; but throughout its extent the distance from one
side to the other does not vary but from 25 to 40 leagues. Beyond the
thirty-first parallel, its breadth rapidly diminishes to the Eio Colorado, which

falls into it at its head.

It has been often remarked, that a singular phenomenon occurs here,
which science does not explain, and of which we possess but few exam-
ples. It is that of rain falling when the atmosphere is quite clear, and
the sky perfectly serene. The savant Humboldt and Oapt. Beechey have
related the fact; the first having testified as to its occurring inland, the
second in the open sea.

The tides are felt throughout the Gulf of Cortes ; their height varies with
the direction and force of tho wind, and the configuration of the coasts : thus
it is 7 feet at Mazatlan, tho road of which is open, and at Guaymas, the
port of which is full of islets, and sheltered from the wind, it does not ex-
ceed 5J feet.

Independently of a groat number of fish, of a variety of species, there are
two species of immense shark found in tho gulf {el tihuron and la tintorera),
which often seize the pearl fishers. Whales are also met with in considerable
numbers, but, up to the present time, no whaler has pursued them. On the
islands are numerous seals and sea-calves. Tho pearl fishery is, or rather
was, also followed, as stated in tho introductory remarks.

The two shores of the Vermilion Sea run parallel with each other toward
the N.W. ; they are very low and full of salt marshes, tenanted by alligators,
reptiles, and insects. The general aspect of tho country is horrible; the
imagination cannot conceive anything more naked, more desolate. There is
an entire want of water and vegetation ; there are only mangroves, and some
thorny plants, such as the cactus, magueys (aloes), or acacias, to be seen.
Orange trees or palms are rarely met with, and one must proceed some
leagues into the country to find vegetable mould. The shore is formed by
sand and lands quite unfit for cultivation.

At the entrance of the gulf, on the eastern side, the summits of the Sierra
Madre may be seer in the distance ; these separate the provinces of Jahsco,
Sinaloa, and Sonora, and those of Nuevo Mexico, Chihuahua, and Durango.
The coast of Lower California presents, without interruption, a series of
rugged peaks of volcanic origin, and without any vegetation. This moun-
tain chain, which comes down fi-om tho North, and extends throughout
the whole peninsula, gradually decreases in elevation as it approaches Cape

San Lucas.
The eastern side of the gulf is comprised in the Mexican provinceB of Si-

<h^><<MI«t«lMi

beir protector
■om the great

Batest breadth

anco from one

Beyond the

olorado, which

a occurs here,
)ut iew oxam-
lite clear, and
Beechey have
ig inland, the

jht varies with

lie coasts : thus

Guaymas, the

t does not ex-

Bcies, there are
d la tintorera),
in considerable
them. On the
y is, or rather

\). other toward
d by alligators,
9 horrible; the
olate. There is
roves, and some
ias, to be seen.
t proceed some
re is formed by

its of the /Sierra
nces of Jahsco,
,, and Durango.
ion, a series of
tn. This moun-
ids throughout
pproaches Cape

provinces of Si-

GULP OF CALIFOENIA.

123

naloa and Sonera, separated by the Eio del Fuerte. Their principal riches
consisted in their gold and silver mines, of course now eclipsed by Upper
California. Tliero aro some considerable cities in the two departments. The
chief are in Sinaloa, Culiacan, the residence of the governor, &c. Bosario,
above Mazutlan, has, or had, the quarters of the troops. Up to 1839 Arispe
was tho capital of 8onora, in which year it was carried 40 leagues to the
South, on account of the incursions of tho Apache Indians. It is now at the
ancient miosiou of 8, Joso do los Ures. Tho port of Guaymas concentrates
all tho maritime affairs of Sonera, and Ilermosillo is the centre of its com-
merce and riches. In the North part of the state large quantities of gold
have been f- .und.

Mr. Jeffery, E.N., who was here in January, 1834, makes the following
observations in his journal :— In the Gulf of California two winds are pre-
valent during the year. Tiie N.W. from October until May, and the S.E.
from May until October, During this former wind fresh breezes and fine
weather will prevail, and a vessel making a passage up the gulf should keep
the western shore on board, and she will find a little current in her favour,
while on the eastern shoro it will be against her When the latter wind pre-
vails you got nothing but heavy rains, oppressive heat, and sultry weather,
and the reverse must bo observed with respect to the currents.

N.B. — The above is a copy from an old Spanish manuscript, and we proved
it correct when we made the passage in 1834."

The COAST between Mazatlan and Guaymas is but little known or fre-
quented. Tho interior country is an important mining district, which has
been worked from tho earliest times, and still afi'ords, with due prudence and
skill, an almost inexhaustible supply of silver, copper, and gold. The
latter is thought to be too capricious to be profitable, and many of the copper
and silver mines have brought ruin on their proprietors through extravagance
and mismanagement. Another article of export is dye-wood, which is
shipped from the river entrances.

The coast northward of Mazatlan is low and swampy, the first place worth
notice is the River Elota, 43 miles from Mazatlan, nearly dry in the hot sea-
son, but a turbid torrent in the wet one. Up the river a few miles is the
pueblo of Mota, standing in a thinly populated and partially cultivated
country, of no interest to commerce. The village is near the foot of the
Sierra Madre range of mountains, which nms generally parallel with the
coast.

The Rio San Lorenzo, or Great Tavala River, is 34 miles beyond the Elota,
and is of similar character. At 20 miles from its mouth is the pueblo of
Cosala, a well known mining place of about 4,000 inhabitants, with many
gold and silver amalgamation works. Large numbers of cattle are reared,
and the climate, though very hot, is considered to be healthy.

The Biver Culiacan is about 46 miles beyond the San Lorenzo, and is

■Jsnss^!3ssKssm^ismmiissmsmm<ffW:fm-m!s >

124 THE GULF OF CALIFOKNIA.

used to float down the large quantities of Lima or Nicaragua wood cut from
all parts of the mountains in this Ticinity. Culiacan, the capital of the pro-
vinco of Cinaloa, is on tho river 23 miles from its mouth. It has been a
handsome Spanish town, and still contains some wealthy inhabitants, occu-
pied with the numberless silver mines in the adjoining Sierra. The largest
building is the Oasa de Moneda, a mint, built by English engineers.

ALTATA is the port of Culiacan, on the North side of the entrance of tho
river. It is thus described by Captain G. H. E. Horn, of the Hambm-g
barque Colima. On leaving ManzaniUo in the rainy season, a passage to
Altata is very easily made, carrying a fair wind all the way ; but in the dry
season when the N.W. wind is blowing, much difficulty is then found, as
strong winds and currents are against you at that time. It is advisable to
hug tho Mexican coast, in order to anchor, in case it should fall calm, as it
generally does at night; by standing out of anchoring ground you will drift
back in tho calm, nearly as much as you have gained by beating up. On
the passage you will sight the Cerro of St. Sebastian, the position of which
assigned to it on the charts from the Spanish survey, may be depended on.
Having approached aboutlat. 24- 39' or 24-40' N., long. 108° 10' W., the
saddle-shaped hill of Tamasula will bear N.N.E. i E., you are then W. by
S. from tho anchorage, distant 7 miles. Steer E. by N., and anchor as soon
as you are in 8 fathoms water, muddy bottom. On steering for the anchor-
age of Altata, if the lat of 24° 35' N. is passed, take care not to near the
shore too much, as there are reefs, stretching out several miles to the south-
ward. It is by no means safe to anchor too near the shore. In case it should
come on to blow, you have to slip your anchor and stand out to sea until the
weather moderates. The filling and procuring water at Altata is difficult
and expensive: it cannot be done with the ship's boats and crew, but you
have to employ men from shore, who fetch it in small kegs on mules from a
plain inland where it is dug for. Tairty hogsheads cost me whUe I was
there 20 dollars, and 30 dollars more for bringing on board.
Position of Altata, lat. 24° 40' 12" N., long. 107° 57' 41" W.
By attending to the following directions, the mariner not acquainted with
the place will be enabled from the roadstead to find the boat channel leading
to Altata. From the anchorage, a conspicuous white house in Altata will
bear E J S., this is also the bearing of the bar from the boat channel, which
lies beyond a low lagoon island, the N.W. extreme of which has to be rounded
to gain the entrance. From the anchorage steer for a white sandy height,
to the westward of Altata; as you approach the surf you will perceive, a
UtUeto the westward of several small hiUocks forming a part of the above
mentioned height, the trunk of a broken tree, which you must bnng on the
starboard bow, and standing on it in that direction you will see smooth water
through the surf; running in till within a boat's length of the beach, you
will have passed the rollers, and you must then turn along the beach towards

ALTATA.

1S5

iod cut from
of tho pro-
has been a
itants, occu-
The largest
eers.

tranco of tho
le Hamburg
El passage to
lut in the dry
en found, as
advisable to
1 calm, as it
you will drift
ting up. On
tion of which
depended on.
10' W., the
then W. by
nehor as soon
)r the anchor -
t to near the
i to the south-
i case it should
sea until the
ata is difficult
crew, but you
mules from a
B while I was

cquainted with
hannel leading
in Altata will
channel, which
is to be rounded
sandy height,
vill perceive, a
rt of the above
3t bring on the
36 smooth water
the beach, you
i beach towards

Altata Eivor, where further directions are uunocoKsary, tho eye being tho
beat guide. Should the broken tree bo sanded over, or be taken away, it
will be difficult fur a stranger to find the boat cliaunol, and it is then recom-
mended to steer direct for the white wandy height, and wait at tho back of
tho surf until, as is commonly tho case on tho arrival of strange vessels, some
person on shore by motions points out the entrance.

The coast hereabout is badly represented on the charts, and, being very
low, this is the more important, as an extensive shoal skirts it for some miles.
It was more particularly described by Capt. S. Kichmond. He found (July
8th, 1854), shoal water, 4 J fathoms, with Altata bearing N.E., distant 9 to
12 miles (which is more than probably in excess), and just inside of this
depth, the sand rose above the surface). It extends from the S.W. of
Altata to the Macapule Eiver, lat. 25*^ 27' N., a distance of 60 miles, the
western edge trending to N.W. by N. It was stated to him that there was
a narrow channel close in shore, used by coasting and also by other vessels,
especially contrabandistas.

San Ignacio Island is in lat. 25° 39' 30", according to Lieut. G. H. Derby,
U.S. Top. Eng. It is a barren rock, called a Farallon by the Spaniards,
which he says is about 5 miles long, and 2 or 3 broad. Other authorities
make it very much smaller, and about 200 feet high, entirely uninhabited,
and only resorted to by seals and sea-birds. It is a good land mark for those
passing up or down the gulf.

Nova Chida, a small coasting port, stands on the North side of the entrance
to the Rio de Simloa or Cinaloa. The river is useless for navigation. At
about 6 leagues up the river is Cinaloa, a Spanish town, built on a hill, and
formerly of some importance, but since c^ecayed and now almost desolate.
San Ignacio Point, to the N.W. of Nova Chista, is about 90 miles from Al-
tata. It forms a projection to the southward, and having to the East of it
San Ignacio Bay. The point, according to the charts, is surrounded by roefs
and from 3 to G miles to tho South of it, is tho San Ignacio Eock, before
mentioned.

Wo have only very vague accounts of this coast, but it is said to be shoal
and difficult to approach. To tho North of the point is tho llicer Joroaco,
quite unimportant; and at 40 miles beyond is tho Uivcr Maria de Aome, fall-
ing into the head of a bay. Tho road from Nova Chista to the mining dis-
tricts of Chihuahua, which crosses the upper course of the Eiver Maria, is
described by Mr. Sevin as being over undulating ground, and fit for wag-
gons or carts, goods being conveyed a distance of 60 travelling leagues for
three dollars per cargo of 300 lbs.

The Hio del Fuerte is of more importance than many hereabout, and de-
bouches at 80 miles northward of Point Ignacio. A consideraole body of
water comes down it in the rainy season, and by it are floated in rafts
and flat boats large quantities of tho Lima or Brazil dye-wood.

3!*SS6K»rrtWi'?

12G THE GULF OF CALIFOENIA.

El Fuerfe, a town at 70 miles up tlio rivor, Imn doclinod, though it is near
an important mining region. An Indiiiii town, JrbMa, stiuuls on tho Houth
side of tho entrance. Tho river divides the Status of Sinaloii autl Sonora.

At 25 milos beyond tlie Eio del Fuerto is tho outninco of tho Eio del Mayo,
which is fronted by a bar, and flows through very low land. An Indian town,
Santa Cruz de Mayo, stands at its mouth. Zoi«.v Point, in hit. 27" 17', accord-
ing to Mr. Boxer, Il.N., is very low and dangerous, and requires groat
caution when approaching Guaynias, as tho south-easterly current out of the
gulf sets past it with groat strength. From this to Uuaymas tho distance is
40 mUos. There is anchorage in G fathoms at 5 leagues N.W. of the Kio
Mayo. At 4 leagues from Guaymas is tho Rio Yuqiii, the banks of which
are inhabited by somo Indians of that tribo.*

The waters of the rivor are much used for irrigation, and excellent oysters
are found in the entrance, and are carried to Guaymas.

Though none of those rivers are navigable, the entrances of somo of them

will admit coasters.

GUAYMAS is the principal harbour of tho Mexican state of Sonora, but
it is of much less importance than Mazatlan, which has at least six tunes tho
amount of trade, because the back country is well peopled, whereas northern
Sonora is almost uninhabited. Dr. BeU says that the true harbour of Guay-
mas covers an area of a little less than four square miles, in which three
small islands, tho rocky peaks of submarine hills, rise perpendicularly from
a depth of from 3 to 4 fathoms, and form a little inner harbour. From the
bare volcanic mountains which enclose tho harbour several irregular little
promontories project into the water, and occupy much valuable space. Tho
total area, in fact, of water, more than 4 fathoms in depth, does not exceed
half a square mile. The entrance is not quite a mile wide, and is guarded
by a long rocky island, called Pajaros, 212 feet high, lying exactly in
front and outside of it, which makes tho harbour doubly secure.

It is thus described I y Lieut. Derby in December, 1851 :-The harbour
of Guaymas is one of tho best upon tho coast ; it is perfectly land-locked
and protected by its numerous islands from every quarter. It has been so
often and so well surveyed, that it is unnecessary for me to enter into a
minute description of its merits. It is to be regretted, however, that it has
not more water, from 4 to 5 fathoms being tho average depth, which is in-
sufficient for a ship of the line, or even a first-class frigate. We found

• This rivor may become of some importance hereafter, for Dr. William A. Bell states,
1869, that there aro extensive coal fchh on hoth «drs of tho Upper Yaqui River, of a
quaUty equal in every respect to the ttnest coal of Newcastle or Pennsylvaiiia. Tho nearest
coal to Guaymas is found at San Marcial, 60 miles distant: although this important fact
will have great weight with tho future of Sonora, theminss are at too great a distance from
the shore to bo available now.

"jmia.i^u ' j'v .B' tj y' ^'UH.w t ■^ ' jjjWWi^, l ^Jj^^!■^'■ ' -^■^

aUAYMAS.

127

igh it is noar
on tho 8outh
111 Sonora.
Rio del Mayo,
ludinn town,
r 17', accord-
cquires groat
nt out of tho
bo distance is
\ of the llio
nks of which

L'oUout oysters

some of them

f Sonora, but
t six times the
sroas northern
hour of Guay-
1 which three
iicularly from
ir. From the
irregular little
.0 space. The
aes not exceed
and is guarded
ing exactly in
(curo.

—The harbour
ily land-locked
[t has been so
to enter into a
?er, that it has
h, which is in-
to. We found

,m A. Bell stales,
Yiifiui River, of a
vimia. Tho nearest
his important fact
eat a distance from

Guaymas a dirty plac<i, witli a dirty impiilatioii nf uliout l,.')nO or 2,000.
Tho liousos boing built of aduhi; with tho roofs sloping towards tlio interior,
havo a very uiidnisliod appoaruuco, and from tlio luirbour tlio tow n pruscuts
tho appoaruuco of liaving boon abandouod wlion half built. Thoro are two
small piors in a ruined condition; and near tho landing a liirgo piloof oartli,
surmount(.>(l by two or thrco crumbling walls, over which floats from a lofty
staff tho Hag of Mexico, marks the si' of tho tuhhc fort, knocked down by
tho guns of tho Dale durin Iho late war. Tiioro are several wealthy indi-
viduals in Guaymas, who luonopolizo tho whole of the business with tho
interior of Sonora, but the mass of tho population arc in a state of wretched
poverty. Ono or two small vessels from San Francisco wcro lying in tho
harbour, the proprietors of which had purchased everything in tho shape of
frosh provisions to bo obtained. Sheep in largo numbers thoy had purcluusod
from tho interior of Sonora with the iutontion of landing them at Molexo,
on the Californian coast, thence driving thom overland to San Francisco.
Fowls, turkeys, ducks, goats, everything that could bo purchased for ono
real and sold for twenty had disappeared, causing us no little difliculty in
obtaining frosh provisions, even at comparatively high iiricos. The water
at Guaymas is obtained from wells, and is slightly brackish. Excolhuit
oysters are brought from tho river Yaqui, which oinptios into the bay about
20 miles South of the town, and sold to tho shipping at a dollar u bushel ;
the Mexicans, however, make no use of them.

Tho time of high water at full and cliango of the moon at Guaymas is not
very accurately determined ; it is, however, Ijctwoen 8 and a.m. Th<'
ordinary rise of spring tides is 6 foot, neap tides 4 feet. Tho phouomonon of
four tides in twenty-four hours has repeatedly occurred here, as I am credibly
informed. Tho prevailing Minds in May, June, and July, are from tho S.E.
and S.W. The thermometov during the summer months ranges from 02" to
98° Fahrenheit, the maximum 110"; during winter from 36'' to GO-', minimum
45°. Guaymas is in lat. 27° 31' N., long. 1 10" 49' lu ' "W.

Captain Ilenry Trollope, IJ.N., gives .he following directions :— Guaymas
once having been soon cannot, with ordinary attention, be mistaken ; tho
whole coast is so remarkable that one is only at a loss to say which is the
most prominent land-mark ; nevertheless, as Pajaros Island lies right before
the entrance when 10 or 12 miles to the eastward, it is a blind harbour ; a
stranger without a chart might well be in doubt as to the entrance. Capo
Haro, a bold, bluff headland, jutting out due South to so ward, and rising
with a wall-like cliff 200 foot from the water, is the best mark for the har-
bour ; it has 14 or 13 fathoms touching the rocks, and the entrance between
Trinidad (an island so called from the distinct manner in which it is formed
in three divisions united at their base) and Pajaros is clear and free from
danger, only taking care to give the points, particularly Punta Baju, a berth
of half a cable's length ; the lead is quite sufficient guide for going in.

-r ,J I,; jj, ' ijr,-."l, < 'i«i!b, '.kt"t

128 THE OULr OF CALIFORNIA.

Secondly, tho wbito smooth beach of Cochoro, oxton.ling itnhitorrui.t.Hlly
from tho Morro TnglcHi' at tlio cntmnoo of tho harbour, I'i uiih-s to tho
oastwaril, and torniinated suddoi.ly by a Htill moro ruiimrkablo liill, called
Cerro Tordillo, or, aa wo torm.ul it, Morro Afulvu, lios in Buch contradiBtiiic-
tion to tho extraordinary mass of IuIIh forming tho peninsula, out of which
tho harbour of Guaymas is hollowed like tho crater of a volcano, that it is
from tlio contrast almost eijually remarkable. Further to tho northward aro
tho remarkable peaks called Tetas do Cabra (Goat's Teats). Some havo
recommended these to bo made, as tho prevalent wiud is from N.W., and
there is certainly no advantage to bo gained by getting over on tho Cochoro
shore, while by making tho land to tho windward of Cape Haro a ship will
havo tho prevalent bree/o and current in her favour. The Tetas do Cabra
are abimt 10 miles N.W. by W. of Capo Uaro ; they stand on tho West
shore of a large doop bay, which Ims several patches of rocks and islets in it.
Pajaros Isle forms of itself an excellent harbour ; in fact, the space between
Trinidad, Fajaron, and Morro Ingleso is eciual as far as security, and supe-
rior as to depth of water, to the harbour itself; tho advantage the latter
has, is in there being a better access into the interior. Tho tides aio very
irregular, except at full a^d change ; there appears to bo only one tide in
the twelve hours, but then tho usual interval occurs between high and low
water. Tho greatest rise and fall we observed during our stay was 4 feet.
High water 8'' a.m.

Tho harbour of Ouaymas is recognised from tho ofling by a mountain
surmounted by two peaks, which aro called Las Tetas de Cabra, from their
supposed resemblance to tho teats of a goat. When this is made out, run
along tho coast, leaving it a little to port, and the island of Tajaros, which
forms tho East side of tho entrance, will soon bo seen. Then steer so as to
leave it to starboard, entering tho channel between it and the land, and the
town and harbour will soon bo discovered. The entrance of tho harbour
once doubled, two islands aro seen in the inner part of the bay, and you
pass between these to reach tho anchorage, near or off the land, according
to the draught of water. Vessels under 100 tons make fast to the landing-
place, and those drawing 12 to 15 feet anchor a quarter of a mile off, in 3 or
4 fathoms. Large ships ought to cast anchor outside these islands in 6 or 7
fathoms. This harbour, which would hold a considerable number of vessels,
is very safe in all seasons ; the bottom is good holding ground, and it is
sheltered from all winds, and forms a large basin, surrounded with islands,
which prevent any heavy swell reaching it. The bank lying in front of tho
entrance is the only danger to shipping, but it is easily avoided in leading
winds, by keeping along tho land. Should a vessel bo obliged to beat in,
she should be careful not to touch this rock.
Guaymas is surrounded by high mountains, which make it extremely hot

uiik'S to tlio

liill, callod
contradistiiic-
out of wliieli
no, that it is
lorthwiird aro

Some liavo
aiN.W., ami

1 tho Cochoro
ro a ship will
itas do Cubra

on tho West
nd islota in it.
pace hctwi'i'U
ity, and supo-
igo tlio latter
tidea aio very
y ono tide in
liigh and low
uy was 4 feet.

y a jiountain
ra, from their
made out, run
['ttjaros, which
steer so as to
land, and the
if tho harbour
bay, and you
xnd, according
o the landiujj-
iillo ofl', in 3 or
lands in 6 or 7
nber of vessels,
und, and it is
d with islands,
in front of the
ded in leading
ged to beat in,

b extremely hot

or.WMAS

12!)

ill tlic niiiiy sonHon. Tlif Hiiniti fcvciM aro prcvalt'nt liw' ns at iSau lUas
and Mii/iitlan.

'I'll!' folldwing ronuirks on fJuaynuiH arc l>y I.iriit.-C.ini. N. (). W.iohidp'.
II. M.S. S/„, . — '• I iinivcd ut (iuaynms mi .July 2\h\, 1sI7, in four iliiys IVdiii
Mii/atliiii. During tlii.s paHsa^^'iMvi' I'.xiH'ricncc.l n/nwi/ ninnilH ridniiti;/ In
llir N. //'.,* IVoni a mile to a niilo and a half an hour. They were nincii in-
lliicnicd by tho wind, whii h, fmni tlio I'JtJi to tiic LMsf. was soiith-uaslcrly
and soiitlicriy. CuiTcnt also nms willi inoro lorcit oii tlio ca.sti-rn sjioiv,
wliich side uo ki'pt.

"Capo Haro can bo easily diHtinguishod liy th,' TctiiH or I'ajis, wliiili
rosoniblo flic teats of a goat ; they are to the northward. The islmel of St.
I'l-ilro NoliiHco is jimt visible f,-oni the deck to tho N.W. Tiio land on tlie
Va(iui shore is liigli and pi'uked ; keeping this broiid on your stiirboard
bow, steer to tho northwiird of a deep bay, wliero the hind breaks off, and
you will soon perceive the island of Tajaros, which is at the entrance, or
facing fJuaynias. Tho water is deep all along llie island of I'ajaros ; that is
lo say, I fatlienis, sochiso as to throw a bi-cnit on shore.

"A large ship will have to anchor soon after passing Tajaros ; that is,
abreast tho ISlorro, in .5 fathoms. A .small ship, and those el' Ciri/s/ort's
claa.s. can anchor inside Iho isles of AnliUa and Alinagn., in 1 and ;(•
I'athoms, just insido them ; and in ;) fathoms, as far in as tlie jioint olf the
town. You may go doso to either of the Isles Ardilla ur Almagro, in ;J and
.'JJ fallioms.

Abator is very difficult to l)e got ; it is to bo obtained by soiuling about 1
nr.lea for it, or it can bo punthased ; buL ..wing to its having to be brought
n on mules or in carts, tho price is very liigh. I wanted 12 tons, wliich I
found could not be obtained for loss than .'30 dollars, which woidd bo nearly
iOs. a ton.f

(^f tlie shores of tho gidf northward of Ouaymas, our linowlodgo is still
imperfect, but its nautical interest is of tho most unimportant character.
Besides tho old Spanish charts, we hav»> the later TI.S. Senate report (18.J2)
of the exploration made in tho U.S. transport Invinvibk, Capt. Wilcox, as

• This will doraonstrato that theso currents aro groatly, if not entirely, dnpendent on f ho
wind, for wo aro told by other commanders tliat there is a gnat outMt from tho gulf, which
must bo guarded against in crossing tho ontranco.

t Hermosillo, which is tho chief town of this paii of .Sonora, is 84 raUos by tho road
North of Ouaymas. which may ho consid. red as \in port. But tho trade of each is not con-
sidoniblo, for Dr. Hell says that three merchant ves.'<els in 18(17 glutted the markets of bolli
places. Hermosillo is a most curious and interesting old town, resembling what a largo
Moorish town in Spain was in tho seventeenth century. Its situation is sinirular : it is
built in the gap which tho liio Sonora has cut through tho western range, and which rises
high all around it. It is the focus of an importaiU silver mining region, and possesses a
mint for coining dollars.

North Pacific. ^g.

•I

v i i ' ig; ' ^..l 'T P,J, ' ' ' , i H ! . ' l! ' .l !B W ' W^,'Wl" ' M ' .'. ' -JJ.'.'-,H ' S- ' - ' V-v'--> ' ,-V,t,U'f. ' .

^ ■ t !!BW H "e ff.M WI I—

130 OTJLF OF OATiTFOENTA.

rolato.1 by Limit. (Joorgo II. Derby. Wo bavo indu.led aU of nautical in-
terest in this report in tbo subsequent descriptions.

Proceeding northwards along tbo coast of Sonora, at 4 leagues fromGuay-
mas is an exceUent barbour, called ruerto E^condido, tbo small islands of
.SanPfdro Nolasco, Tortuga, San Pedro, and in lat. 29° tbo Ma del Tihuron.

Tortuga is about 6 miles in length, and, like most others in the gulf, ap-
pears rocky, barren, and uninhabited by animals.

Tiburon has a rugged outline. It has long boon known as the abode of
tbo Ceres Indians, a small tribe of about 500, who are represented as ex-
tremely hostile, and invariably opposing any attempt at landmg ; they aro
said to be armed with poisoned arrows. A rich bed of pearl oysters is said
to exist between this island and tbo cosist of Sonora, and there are accounts
of rich gold mines upon the island ; but as no one is ever known to have
landed there, it is difficult to understand how the fact was ascertained.

San Estevan or Bruja Island, to the S.AV. of Tiburon, presents an exceed-
ingly wild and sterile appearance, resembbng the generality of the gulf
coast on the California side. Tbo appearance of tbo water between this
island and that of St. Sorento led us to suppose that wo were on soundings,
but on trying tbo deep-sea lead we found no bottom at one hundred fathoms.

{Derby.)

Tiburon forms with the coast a narror^ and dangerous channel {el Canal
Peligroso), which is terminated by the isle! Be los Patos. All this part of
the 'province is barren, and only a few T6pocas Indians are to bo mot

The rivers do not roach the coast at all times, for a large portion of their
waters is diverted for irrigation. At 35 miles North of Tiburon is the place
called La Lihertad or i\iQ Puertecitos, from which there is a road to Altar.

To the North of the Rio de la Concepcion de Cahorca is the smaU bay of
Santa Sabina and the island of Santa Inez, the Eio de Santa Clara, and tbo
watering-place, Loh Tres Ojitos. As far as the Rio Colorado, at the head of
the gulf, the coast is barren, and very low. The wind perpetuaUy raises
clouds of the fine sand which composes it.

The head of the Gidf of California has evidently been formed by the de-
tritus brought down by the sigular but almost useless river, the Eio Colorado.
There is no doubt but that it is subject to very gi-eat changes,* and thero-

• Tho head of tho gulf probably was much further northward in earlier ages of tho
world's history. For at from 80 to 150 miles N.N.W. from tho present mout!h of tho
Colorado is an area called tho i^alt Lake. This is shown by barometrical observations to
bo below the sea-level. It is now a dry plain of alluvial formation, with a beach lino
distinctly traceable. Mr. W. V. lUako, of Washington, explains its formation by inferring
that tho silt or matter brought down by tho river has filled up tho interval, and shut it off

■ A. i ^-U:l«I.H'U.)'.-. ' ,8M!WIM >'" ' ■''

THE EIO COLOllADO.

i:U

>d all of nautical in-

1 leagues from Giiay-
tlio small islands of
hla del Tihuron.
;hers in tlie gulf, ajv

lowTi as the abode of
•0 represented as ex-
at landing ; they aro

pearl oysters is said
id there are accounts

ever known to have
vas ascertained.
1, presents an exceod-
enerallty of the gulf
3 Avater between this
re were on soundings,
one hundred fathoms.

■ous channel {el Canal
'tos. All this part of
idians are to be met

large portion of their
if Tiburon is the place
is a road to Altar.
a is the small bay of
Santa Clara, and the
olorado, at the head of
ind perpetually raises

loen formed by the de-

ivor, the Eio Colorado.

changes,* and there-

ward in earlier ages of tho
tho present moufli of tho
arometrical observations to
•mation, with a beach lino
18 its formation by inferring
tho interval, and shut it off

fore no directions can bo useful for any period. Lioutonaut Dm-by (htiM
describes it : —

A largo island close to the California shor(\ in liil. 2!) ;i', long. WT ■>V ,
was named Smitli's Island. This island is about r milo IS'orvh of Angeles
Bay, a small indent.-ition of tho coast about 4 miles in width, slightly open
to tho eastward, witli a sandy bottom in about 10 fatiinras water. Tiio
adjacent country is extremely wild and rugged. The hiUs are (lover.'d with,
huge boulders. There are three springs of slightly brackisli water at the
foot of the highest hill, and a bed of most excellent oysters is exposed at low
tide. Tlio water may bo found by noticing the reeds v iiich gi-ow about it,
and which aro tho only green things in the vicinity. Tho bay v.^ apparently
well known to the people inhabiting the interior, as there were many traces
of old encampments, &c. There are plenty of turtle, and in certain seasons
of tho year there must be great quantities of water, but in Docomber, 1 8.50,
all was dry and parched. There aro several sunken ooks in tho entrance.
Tides rise and fall about 15 feet.

Clarence Island or the Ship liocJc is a remarkable rock, which at a distance
has the appearance of a ship with all sail set. It is about a mile in circum-
ference, about 200 feet high, and perfectly white witli guano. It is probably
tho same as Hardy's Clarence Island, but is 20 miles West of the position

he gives to it.

Montague and Gore Inlands are to bo readily recognized from Hardy's
description. They are low, flat, and sandy, and are separated by a very
shallow channel a mile wide. The country here is covered with dwarf reed
and coarse grass. Thousands of trunks of trees lie scattered over its surface
as far as the eye can reach, showing that it must be entirely overflowed in
the season of the freshets.

The RIO COLORADO is the most important river of this region, and is
one of tho most singidar in the world. The real character of its apper
course has only been known within a recent period. It divides tho State of
California from the territory of Arizona ; and at 70 miles in direct distance
from its mouth is the junction ^f the Gila River, a most important stream
which drains the rich mining di-tricts of S.E. Arizona. On tho South side
of the junction is ^r/-3«rt Citi/, "a small placo with a big name," and on
the North side is Fort Yuma, tho first station of the Colorado Steam Naviga-
tion Company. This company has three steamers and tliroo barges of 70
and 100 tons burthen. Tho condition of the river may be judged of wlu'u
it is stated that these craft draw one foot when light, and two feet vrhon
loaded, and never travel by night. The river is navigable to Calville, in lat.

from the gulf. Tho water was then evaporated by tho dry winds of tliat desert region .
and again, tho water of the Colorado, at tho time of freshets, overflow and run back into tho

desert for many inilos.

K 2

Jv-Jwftt?*!**"^^

n t ^mJi^y ' - a^y- '

ir.2

(il'LF OF CATJFOENTA.

;j(r 13' N., a dlstaiicfi Ol'i milos by tlie vivw from its inoiitli, and -lOO miles
H.8.W. from tli« (Salt Lako City. The suinmors lioro are iutorisoly hot
(riKingto 126'' in the sluulo), but tho winters nro milJ, the h)wer extiomo
being 34^ The average amount of rain in 4 years at Fort Yuma, between
18')7 — 1807, is only 1. 01 inches per annum.

Above Calvillo the Colorado runs through that most wonderful natural
phtmomonon — tho Grand Canon, a gcn-go hundreds of milos h)ng, evidently
cut by the river tliroughthe strata to a depth of G,000 and 7,000 foot, being
aeareoly broader at the level of tho river than it is on the upper surfaee of
the plain. It is tliis unexampled singularity which renders it quite useless
to man, either Iwr means of transport, or for fei-tilizing tho country through
which it flows.*

Lieut. Derby says of it (l8uP : —

The bar at the mouth of the Colorado is about 10, possibly 1.5 miles in
width ; the .s<jiwidings upon it i*re irora 10 feet to 4 fathoms ; it it a very
loose, muddy b<irt(H>ni, and with ii .-^tiff breeze a «*«>ssel could force her way
over It, even if drawing a fo(it or more than the lead would indicate. The
distance from the junction of tho Gila and Colorado to the mouth of the
latter, by water, is about 10 1 miles, owing to the many ijends of tho river,
though the difference of latitude is but little nv>re than hali' that distance.

The navigation of the Gulf of Ca«-ifornia pi-eseuts aone of those difficulties
which we had been led to anticipate. The wind we fouiMi invariably from
the N.W., whicli, at this season of tho year, is its prevailiii^j direction ; it is
only during the months of June, July, and August that th«.- {^bIoh from tho
S.E. are prevalent ; except in Wliale Channel we noticed none of the strong
currents so frequently mentioned as existing in the Gidf.

It would be diiR< ult to mistake the entrance to the river, it being in fact
the head of the gulf, which gradually narrows from 40 to 3 miles when it
is joined bv the river, wliose turbidstrtam discolours the gulf for nmny
miles to the southward, in soundings of 12 and 1! fathoms. (Jn the Sonora
coast, howr'ver, exists an indentation some 15 or 20 miles iu dejtth, called
l>y Hardy Adair Bay ; the slioals of this can bo se<.'n from the mast-head, a
view from which would prevent one falling into the eiTor wlii^-h he did of
supposing it a moiilh of the Colorado. The angh? at the junction of the
slough and the main river is called Ai-nold's Point, and from tho mouth of
tho river (after crossing tho bar) to this point, the channel varies in depth

* /n f)r. Hcll'w " Nl'W 'i'ra-lcs in North Anu'rirp," 1869, :in ucoount is givon of tho
uassagft down this (jovK'" ^Y <Taui(;s Whitr, a minor. Floeing from tho (ndiiins, his party
(who were aW lost but himself), in August, 1807, entered the canon on ,i raft, and iiftfir a
frightful /,)irnpy (^ fourteen duys (of which six eonsecutivoly wero witliout food), ho
iviohed Calvillf in a dreadful state. Thi:< tlu-illing narrative is found in Chnpter XIII of
the ftbovc work, and it is prataldy tho only exploiaiion tliat lius heen, or will be, made uf
iSt \t fayvais.

! l ■ WM

t »« r iw » i > m -iM l MW ir q wW -'M p i- m uKB' •• o ' f ■»

kI '100 inilcH
iutoiisoly hot
)wer extiomo
una, between

erful natui'.'il
Kg, oviilontly
30 foot, L(;ing-
lor Kurf'aeo of
(juito usoloss
iitry tlirougli

f 15 miles in
; it as u very
orce her way
ndioate'. Tho
moiirJi of tlio
of tlio river,
lilt, distance,
ose difReiiltios
variably from
li ruction ; it is
:alea from the
• of the strong

t being iu fact
miles when it
jfulf for many
(in the Sonora
ii depth, called
» mast-head, a
Fhi^'h lie did of
inction of the
n the mouth of
aries in depth

it is givoii ij{ tho
ndiiins, his party
raft, and aftfir a
without food), h(!
Clinpter XIII of
will bo, inudo <.>(

THE PtlO ('()L(H{AI)().

l;5;5

from IT) to .'30 foot, at ordinary high tide, and may, as we have practically
demonstrated, be asccmdodbya vi^sscl liaviii;;; a draught of H or 9 iVct, by
taking advantage of tho flood, which has a velocity of from 3 to .'> mihjs per
honr. It is impossible to sail np, howeviu-, for although the river varies in
width from .'1 miles to (500 yards, tlio cliannel is narrow and the navigation
elsewhere obstructed by the numerous sand bars. Tho proper method, after
passing Gore and Montag-ue Islands through the \\'estorn channel of tho
river, is that which we adopted, to drift with tlu) flood tide, keeping dose 1o
tho highest bauk, sounding continually, and anchoring before the time of
high water: in this way wo progressed slowly but steadily, making, per-
haps, 4 or .'3 miles per day, until we arrived at tho point where we finally
landed the stores, which T have named, " Invincible Point."

The mouth of tho C'ohu-ado has t^vidently greatly changed since Hardy's
visit in 182G. Tlie ebb tide was observed to run at 5^ miles an honr, and
tho flood comes in with a " bore, " a bank of water 4 feet high (vxtiMiding
dear across the river, and occurs daih till near neap tides, proving tlm
assertion of Hardy, that '• /Jure is no such Ihitig <is n/ack wafer iu the River
Colorni/o."

There is but little water uom' in the entran(x> of the Colorado from 2^ feet
to IJ fathoms, in January 18ol.

The time of high water at Arnold's I'oint, at the junction of th" Colorado
with the Gulf, is ;]'• ^O'" p.m., and tho ordinary rise about 12 feet, but durin"-
ft; li-! hots is apparejitly at least lo feet higher. Thi> tidal motion ceases at
about 40 miles from the mouth. N(.'ar tiie mouth there is no vegetation, buc
higher uj) tho shores are thickly lined with cane, rushes, small willows, &c.,
and tho interior country with a eoasesliarp grass. Invincible Point, tho
S.E. point of tlieC -lorado Mouili, is in lat. 31" 50' 20", hmg. lir' 40' 43".

The Western Shore of tlu* Gidf is as yet but little known As was above
stated, it is now entering on a n(nv phase, as it has riMcntly bcomn the
projierty of a Laud (Jompany, wiiich may (hn'elopeits resources, but this is in
the future.

The northern limit of th' purchase above ailudnd to is a line on the pa-
ralh>l of lat. 31" N., which strikes the western coast to the northward, tiie
watering place of Sidi FeJipc (k Jesus. At 2.') miles southward of tiiis is Smi
Fermin. Then follow Saiifa Tsahel, La fisitarion, Saii. h'.sfaiiis/ao, the JJai/ itf
iSaii. Luiz do Gon'Mi/a. Sau Juan if Sa>i Pablo. Lo" Remedios, and the Bai/ de Ids
A nfielei.

Angeles Island, or / fW Anffel de la Gnardia. lies off this part of tho coast.
It is 30 miles lung, but narrow. It is mountainous, rocky, and uninhabited.
To the South of it are three small islands, undertint u{\im} oi Las Arrinus
(or Animas). They iwe eomjtoxed of eonrwe clay slato, colourtxl trap, and
trap ttdTa, and covered with cacti. Iniincjis*- quantities of so-afs are found
upon these, u> wtrll as most of the other islands of th(! gnlf. 1 named these

^.j^j GULF OF CALIFOPtNTA.

Alleii'8 IslandH. Thoy are in about hit. 28" 55' N., and tlvo soundings in tho
vicinity from 4 to 17 fathoms. . .., , t

Angeles Bay i« abreast of tlio South end of tho idaTid. It was visited by

Cant Wilcox. U.S.N., in 1851, as stated on page 131. At low ado

Lieutenant Derby noticed several sunken rocks at the entrance, which, they

had not perceived in coming in. The rise and fall at Angeles Bay is about 15

foot. Itslat. is2'J"5'N.,long. 113°25'30"W. , . . ,

Abreast of Angeles Island, at 9 leagues from the shore, was tho mission o

San Frnncmo do Uorja. To tho South the islands of Sal si PuedcH (get out li

you can), Las Animas, and San Lorenzo, present a very dangerous passage.

To the South of the Gupe do las Virgenes are seen the .Va>/ of Santa Agueda,

aahpagoH Hand, the Cape and Island of San Marcos, which, with the islands

Tortuguitas and Capo San Miguel, form the Bay of MoJeje.

Opposite tho Island of San Marcos, but G leagues inland, there was the
mission of San Ignacio. That of Santa Eosalia he.s half a league from the
sea, on the banks of the Rio Molcji. This point is easy to bo found. In
approaching it a smaU hiU will be seen, caUed the Somhrerito, havmg the
form of a hat. The bay is shallow, and boats of 15 or 20 tons can only enter
it. Some pearls are found, and on the banks of the river some fruits and
grain are, or have been, produced.

MOLEJE.— This is an extensive bay, which runs to the S.S.W., between
the above river and Point Concepcion on the East. Tho following observa-
tions on it are by Liout.-Com. S. 0. Woolridge :-" Point Concepcion is diffi-
cult to make out, when you have about a dozen of the seme kind withm a few
ndles of each other. However, the best marks I can give are some table
land, which is very remarkable, and is rather to the right of Moleje village.
Keep this about two points on your starboard bow, and you may stand ui
untd you discover some ^andy islets, which are off a point called Punta
Ynos. ASlien you are East and West with them, you wiU bo distant from
them about 3 miles. After passing these islets, then steer South and S.S.W.
until you make out the PyTamid Eock, spoken of by Captain Ht^nulton.
This rock is called Somhrerito, or Little Hat. I think it bad to caU it
Pyramid Eock, as there is a point which, in standing in, may be easily
mistaken for it, resembling also a pyramid ; but tho rock is a pyramid fixed
on a round pedestal like a fort. Another good way of making out this place
is, when the wind is fair, to koep Tortuga Island, about 20 miles distant,
bearing about N.W„ and steer in S.E. till you make out the sandy islets, and
proceed as above. There is a passage between the islets and the main land
for smaU vessels, but, though very invitiiu?, should not be attempted. Iti'ied
it, but getting into. 21 fathoms, I put about ns quick aspossil/ie. My anchor-
age marks in Malojo Boy were as foUow, in 5 fathoms : -Point Concepcion,
N. 8 (^ E. ; Tortuga Isle, N. 4" W. ; Lob(.s Isle, N. 2° E, ; Somhrerito,
y, 67" W. (I'yraiuid Eock of Captain Hamilton) ; Eciuipalito, S. 22° W.

SlK'S3WW!««8»aWFi«

ndiiigs in the

waa visitod by

At low lide

30, wludi. they

ay is atout 15

the missiou of
edes (get out ii'
irous passage.
Santa Agueda,
til the islands

there was the
jague from the
bo found. In
to, having the
J can only enter
onie fruits and

,S.W., between
lowing observa-
tcepcion is diifi-
ud within a few
are some table
Moleje village.
I may stand in
it called Punta
be distant from
,uth and S.S.W.
ptain Ht*milton.
t bad to call it
may be easily
a pyramid fixed
ag out this place
miles distant,
sandy islets, and
d the main land
ttemptod. I tried
ll>ie. My anchor-
oint Concepcion,
E. ; Sombrurito,
lito, S. 22° W.

MULKJK.

135

(Rook on South side of entranoo to the river) ; Punta Sun Yiies, N.
10" W.

" This is V(ny close in, but 1 wished to facilitate the watering ; about htdf
u mile- further to the northward, in 8 fathoms, is a very good berth. In going
into th(3 liiiy after making out the Sonibrerito, if you wish to go close in,
take t^aro not to bring tlio Soiubrorito at all on your starboard bow ; that is
do not opi'u the mouth of the river, as by sounding I disi'overed a r(.)ck with
only one fathom on it ; it is on a sandbank with 3 fathoms all round it, about
three-quarters of a mile fr(jm the shore ; but the rock itsulf has only ono
fathom. It lies with the entrance of the river open, directly between tho
Sombrerito and Equipalito Eocks, distant from one half to one mile ofl' shore.
Tho report of tho facility of watering is very delusive and uncertain.

" In the fu'st place 1 cannot think it possible to water out of the river, as
it is salt for at least 2 or 2^ miles, and a great portion of the time boats could
not possibly get up so fai. I was there, fun .:.ately, wlien tho moon was
nearly fall, and the Water wi;s only low between eleven at night and four in
the morning, so that I was em bled to water about eighteen hours oat (jf
twenty-four, and though I had but one small boat (23-feet cutter), I managiHl
to g(*t 12 tons in two days. She had to go IJ mile up the river, to Padras.
Tho water is delicious to drink at the stream, but it is so very low, and oui-
water, after being a day or two on board, became so black, and smelt so
strong of decayed vegetable matter, that though it improved by keeping, it
served chiefly for cookmg and washing."

Prom Moleje Bay to Loreto there is always, near tho land, fnnn 20 to 30
fathoms, and tho coast offers good anchorages : tho I'oints of Santa Teresa,
Fanta Colorada, those of Fulj)itu do San Juan, the bay of that name, that of
Mercenarios, Point Maglares, and San JJntm Core.

Mangles Road is 3 miles to the northward of San Bnmo Cove, tho lauding
place is in lat. 2G^ 16i' N., long. Ill" 22i' W., under tho shelter of Mangles
lV)int. It is o])en to the East, and at its South side is a rock awaah, 2 miles
S.S.E. from Mangles Point, and 1 mile off shore. The bay is famous on tho
coast for its valleys, well supplied with wood of a superior (luality.

At 3 leagues to tho North of Loreto the little island of Coronadon offers
hh(>lter from the N.E. Near tho mission there is a depth of 4 fathoms, and
under tho lee of the Island del Carmen 13 to 16 fathoms.

LlorettO or Loreto.— Tho ancihorage at Loreto is pointed out by the churcii
and a clump of palm trees, and it may be tlistinguished at a distance by a
very lofty peak, suiToanded by smaller liifls.

This mountain, called £/ Cerro *• la Giganta, is tho highest in Lower Cali-
fornia. Its height above the sea. level is 4.5G() feet, at;cording to trigonome-
trical measurement ; it is of volcamc formation, as i.s all tho rest of the chain
which runs through the peninsida. The anchorage of Loreto is open to tho
winds from North, N.W., and S.W. Wk«ii they blow very strongly, the

I
I

asS^?S? s^AiaiJi t i4 ' 'W . ! ^^fflgg

i;{()

GULP OF CALIFOENIA.

Bliip must got under way to escape boiug driven on shore. If she is of small
draught, she may make for Puerto Escoudido, 14 leagues to the South.

Tlio mission of Rfal da Loreto, opi)08ito Carmen Island, was the capital of
Lower California ; but it is so nuich decayed that the authorities were trans-
ferred to the Real de San Antonio. The presidio, the mission, and the church,
are fallen to ruins. Those buildings, very substantially built by the Jesuits,
were intended to serve, in case of attack, as an asylum to the inhabitants.
They are surrounded by a thick wall, which turns the waters of a ton-eut
which comes from the mountains ; and which, several times, washed away
the houses and the vegetable earth. The church, for a long time after its
decay, contained many pictures, silver vessels, and jewels of considerable
value, which, though left quite open, was considered safe from spohatiou.
At Loreto water is generally scarce ; and that from the wells is brackish and
unwholesome.

Carmen Island lies in lat. 26° 10' N. Dr. Bell says it is worth a visit. It
belongs to the American Land Company, and of its huge estate, this is its
richest prize. Close to the shore, but partitioned off from the sea by a
narrow strip of shingly beach, over which the water never flows, is a lake
covering an area of about six square miles, the bottom of which is covered
with pure white crystals of salt— chloride of sodium— without any admixture
or adidteration in the shape of sand, algae, or other salts. Usually no water
covers this area, and the salt has only to bo raked up, packed in large
sacks, and shipped to San Francisco. Here it is ground and sold, without
any purification, as the finest table salt. Holes have been dug 10 feet deep
through pure crystals of salt. Fine volcanic mountains form a semi-circle
aroimd this lake, and when it rains the drainage from them flows into this
basin, and covers it to the depth of a few inches. It is supposed that the
salt is thus washed down from some large natural deposits. There are,
also, some fine beds of the long shelled oyster hereabouts which are shipped
to San Francisco.

Salinas Bay was surveyed February 4th, 1849, in the Herald, by Captain
Kellott, E.N. He places the head of it in lat. 25" 59' 34" N., long. 11 T 5'
45" W. It is about 31 miles wide between Moro and White I'oints, and
2 miles deep. Fish and turtle are to be got at its head.

To the South of the Isle Carmen are the Islands Catalana, three leagues in
length, 3fonscrrati; Los Danzantes, the Pearl Banks, &c., of which the chart
gives the best guide. They were partially examined in February, 1849, by
Captain Kellott, E.N., in the Uerald. The only points visited by shipping
are the harbour of La Paz and San Jose del Cabo.

Catalana Islailad is about 7 miles long. Its North end is in lat. 25° 42',
long. 110° 47'. It i.H very abrupt, nari-ow, and has deep water «lose-to.
Midway between it and the coast is Mmitserrate, of .imall extent ; and at 2

^Ti^vf-*^*^V'#WMW^'>i*r'

LA PAZ 15AY.

i;!7

(ho is of 8iuall
South,
tho capital of
39 were traiis-
id tho church,
ly tho iTosuits,

inhabitants.
it of a ton-ent

washed away
timo after its
f considerable
am spohatiou.
i brackish and

?th a visit. It
,te, this is its
tho sea by a
ows, is a lake
ich is covered
any admixture
iually no water
Lcked in large
sold, without
g 10 feet deep

1 a semi-circle
flows into this
losed that the
s. There are,
ch are shipped

'd, by Captain
., long. 11 r 5'
to I'oints, and

hree leagues in
hich the chart
^uary, 1849, by
ed by shipping

in lat. 25° 42'.
water «lose-to.
tent; and at 2

miles Nortli of it are some rocky islets outside, or to tlu; North of wliidi is a
(fiDif/eroim rock only 2 feet above liigli water.

San Josef Island is 40 miles South of C'ataluna. It is .1 leagues long, and
separated from tlio coast by a deep channel 1 mih's wide. Ainortajuda Jdnj
is on its S.W. side, and is tho principal aiU'horago. It is an anchorage open
to the S.W. Its N.W. point, according to Captain Kellett, is in lat. 24" 54^'
. N., long. 110' arj' 2;J" \V. Fresh water is to bo got, in tho season, from a
rivulet at its S.E. end. Tho anchorage is sheltered. San Francisco Island
lies off tlie South end of San Josef.

Espiritu Santo Island is about 20 miles S.E. of San Josef. It jn-ojects
northwai 1 fnmx the peninsula which forms tlie bay of La Tuz, being sepa-
rated ])y a channel a miles Mido, which has a minkcii rock in the centn-.
There are some islets olf its North end, but tlioy are not well known. At
the S.W. end of the island is San Gahrki Hay, sheltered from northward and
eastward, lat. 24° 25' N., long. 110'^ 19' W. There is anchorage in 10 fa-
thoms, but it suddenly shoals from this. Port IhJkna is a mile to tlie Noi'tli
of San Gabriel. In its entrance are Gullo and Gullina, two islets, between
wliich is good anchorage.

LA PAZ BAY is an extensive indentation, running southward for 20
miles, and about 12 miles wide at tho entrance. At its head is tho town of
La Paz, and on its eastern side, about 5 miles from Point San Lorenzo, the
N.E. entrance point, is the island of San Juan Nepomuceno, U mile long, but
narrow. It is connected Avith the land at its North end by a shallow flat,
but it forms a bay, opening southwards, called Pivhilingue Bay. This har-
bour is about one-third of a mile broad, and has a depth of 4^ to 6 fiithoms
affording excellent shelter. Very fine pearls used to be found hero. Tlie
S.E. point of Nepomuceno Island is in lat. 24° 15' N., long. 110'^ 16' W.
according to Cajit. Kellett.

La Paz, where Cortes landed. May 3rd, 1535, is in lat. 24° lo , long.
109° 45'. Incoming hero vessels anchor in Piehili)i(jm Bay, above men-
tioned, to tho East of the Island of San Juan Nepomuceno, in from 5 to 9
fathoms, and at 2 leagues' distance from the houses. The population of La
I'az consists of about 400 people, the greater part descended from foreign
seamen. This is the only town of Lower California.* It is a beautiful
little place, nestled amongst palm trees at the extremity of the inlet sur-
rounded by bold mountains of variegated volcanic rock, so common along the

* Tho I'ort of La Paz was namud at the timo of its discovery Baliia do Santa Cruz,
afterwards it was called under tho name of Porto del Maniiiez del Valle (Cortes), and lastly
that hy which it is now known. It was durins his stay in tliis bay that Cortes received the
nnpleasant news of his disgrace, brought ou by the jealosisies which his great services
r;ased, and tliat, not loss painful, the news of the arrival of the first Me.Kican viceroy, sent
to replace him in tlie ci'iiinmud,

M y ' Bill '>! "ii I "ii" ifffinf'" ' I ''fll^l^^l^ .^i i"i ii '^i ^ niw "mi >'ii' w \

138 GULF OF CALIFORNIA.

<«n8t of Lower California. Outside is a pearl fishery, at which nuiuerouH
Ynqui IndiaiiH are omployod ; they bring up the sIujUs from a doi)th .jf 8
fathoms. Vessels from San Bias, Mazatlan, luid Guaymas, often come to
purchase shell.

A vessel anxious to keep on the coast of Mexico, or in its neighbourhood,
during the bad season, cannot do better than run over to the Bay of La Tuz
on the West shore of the Gulf of California, and but little to thi> North of
Mazatlan. This splendid harbour is fonued by the main land of Lower Ca-
lifornia on the starboard hand going in, and a long chain of islands with
shallow passages between on the port hand. The most eastern island is Es-
piritu Santo.

North end of Espiritu Santo, lat. 24° 36' N., and long. 110' 22' W., with a
large rock due North of it 5 miles.

In approaching this bay from Mazatlan the Island of Cerralbo wiU be first
made, high and mountainous ; North end lat. 24° 23' N., long, of South end
109° 45' W. Fi-om it Espiritu Santo will bo seen bearing about W. by N.
The bay is at least 30 mUes deep, and for the first 20 miles a deep bold shore
on either hand, no bottom with 20 fathoms close to the islands. Largo ves-
sels anchor under the Island of San Juan do Nepomuceuo ; but small ones
anchor within half a mile of the village of La Taz. Fish, water, turtle,
choose, and fruits are to bo obtained here ; and cattle also in the wot season
when pasturage is to bo found on the coast. Snakes are very numerous and
venomous.

Capt. Eichmond says (1854) that tho load is not to be trusted in La Pa/
Bay, as the water shoals very suddenly from 20 fathoms into danger on its
western shore, as well as against the islands to tho East. The chaimol be-
tween Espiritu Santo Island and Ft. S. Lorenzo is very narrow, not moro
than two or three ships lengths' wide, and there is but one channel, not two,
as marked on the chart.

At La Paz, tho Eio Yaqui, and Guaymas, eight or ten small vessels, of 20
to 40 tons, are fitted out for the pearl fishing. The divers are all Yaquis
Indians. The fisliing begins in May, and ends in October. Tho principal
pearl banks in the guK are in tho Bay of La Paz and near Loreto, the S.W.
point of the Isle Carmen, Puerto Escoudido, Los Corouados, Los Danzautos,
San Bruno, and S. Marcos Islands.

Cerralbo Island lies to the S.E. of La Paz Bay, as above stated. Captain
Eichmond says that there is a rock about 6 miles N.W. of the North end of
it. According to the charts there is a rock, 10 or 12 feet high, at 9 miles
N.W. of tho island, and another smlien rock about midway between, called
the Queen Hock. Besides this another breaker is shown, so that with all
those reports, which have not been properly verified, groat caution is
necessary.

ch nuniorouH
a doptli (jf 8
)ftcu coiuo to

iff]il)ourliood,
ay of La Vaz
tlio North of
of Lower Cii-
' islands witli
1 island is Es-

12' \V., with tt

bo will 1)0 first
;. of iSoutli Olid
,ut W. by N.
oop l)old shore
Largo vos-
ut small ones
water, turtle,
the wot season
uuniorous and

;ed in La Paz
danger on its
he channel bo-
rrow, not more
annul, not two,

1 vessels, of 20
are all Yaquis
The principal
oroto, the S.W.
Los Donzantos,

tatod. Captain
10 North end of
gh, at 9 miles
between, called
3 that with all
'roat caution is

BAY OF SAN JOSE DEL CABO.

i;ii»

BAY OF SAN JOSE del Cabo* is open from tho South to N.N.E., and

is very dangerous, wlmn, in T)ad weather, the winds prevail from this
quarter; the bottom being bad liolding ground, and tho anchorage so near
tho shore, that there is no chance of getting off with tho wind on shore. It
follows, therefore, that this bay ouglit not to bo frequented, except from tho
end of N(jvember until May, tho season when winds from West and N.W.,
and fine weather, prevail throughout the gulf, as well as on all tlio Mexican
coast. It is at this period that it is visited by tho whalers and merchantmen
trading to Lower California ; but these latter prefer the port of La Paz,
before described, which is more secure.

It was visited by II.M.S. Herald, in Juno, 1848, and Ca-pt. Henry Trollope,
E.N., thus describes it.

The Bay of San Jose is an indifferent roadstead at the extreme of tho
Californian Peninsula. It is entirely exposed froniN.E. by the E. to S.S.W. ;
tho water is deep even close to the shore, and a hole having 40 or oO fathoms
exists in the best part. It is, however, a convenient place for obtaining
water, as well as for fresh beef and vegetables. Fruit, such as figs and
oranges, milk, Mexican cheese, and one or two other articles may bo pro-
cured from the village, which is about three-quarters of a mile from tlio
stream. One of tho marks for the bay will bo the high range of hills run-
ning to tho N.E. ; tho remarkable thumb peak of San Lazaro standing up
like a pinnacle is tho highest of the range, while tho vaUey of the river is
clearly defined between this range on tho left and a much lower range of
pinnacles, craters, and flat table-lands on the right. The coast for 5 or 6
leagues to tho N.E. is free from danger. Eimning along tho coast from tho
eastward, Punta Gorda (the northernmost point of the bay) is too remark-
able to escape notice — a flat white lull of moderate height, perhaps 150 or
180 feet high, with several pyramidal hills to the left, particidarly a group
of three in one with a flat-topped crater-like hiU or truncated cono near it,
and a flat level plain with a single conical hill in it to the right ; the long
playa, or sandy beach, will then bo seen, running along which you wiU soon
distinguish the stream and a flagstaff on a slightly elevated mound. Tho
coast may in any part bo approached without danger, having 5 or 6 fathoms
close-to, but deepening very rapidly. To avoid letting go your anchor in tho
50-fathom hole, keep the flagstaff open to the westward of the high peak of
San Lazaro, or thumb, as we call it, the latter boai-ing N.W. by W., when
a vessel may anchor in 13 to 15 fathoms, soft mud, three-quai Lers of a mile

• At tho mission of San Jose in the southern part of tho peninsula, tho learned Able
Chappe d' Auterocho died, whom tho Royal Academy of Scibn^es .sent to ohservo tho transit
of Venus in 1769. llo accurately determined tho position of Capo San Lucas, which
served as a landfall aud departui'o for the ships for China and Eui-ope.

.jaK«4WS*B*l*«''»''***'^'^-**>**"'**'^*SRW^"$«^

110

LOWER OALTFORNIA.

from tho Hlioro. Tlio river is 50 yardu to tho loft of the flngstafT, nnd at low
water, wlu>n thoro is hut little surf on llm Iteacli, alTords iiii excellent supjily.
It is, however, lialilo to iuterriipl ions; stront!; N.W. hree/es raise a heavy
surf on the beach, rendering? landiug somewhat didicult. However, witli a
party on slioro fiUing and a liaiiling-lino for tho casks, we completed very
oxpoditiously, Retting forty tons on board in thirty hours. The sea at hijijh
water percolates through tho sand, nuidering the water brackish and uniit
for use. This can bo remedied by going higlmr uit tho stream, but the labour
is of course more. Horses ai-o good and easily obtained. There aro no re-
mains of tho Franciscan Mission of San Jose, tho origin of tho place ; and
thovillagoisbut a poor straggling plac(s wliich, I believe, almost grow up
during the war with America. Tlie flagstalf is in hit. T.r ;J' 15' N., long.
101)° 87' 53" W., variation 2' 28' 6.'J" easterly. Off a rocky cliff botweoTi
(Japos Talma and I'aha, there is a shoal about one mile off tho shore,
which wo did not examine. Tho clilf is in lat. 23" 20' 53" N., long. lO'J '

23' 30" W.

The Bay of San Lucas oilors safe anchorage and shelter from westerly
winds, but is exposed to a very heavy and most dangerous sea from tho
y.AV. Tho soundings aro very irregular, and tho anchorage, by reason of
its great depth in tho centre, is (tompletoly a leo shore.

Tho village consisted of foui- houses at tho time of Captain Sir Edward
Belcher's visit, and water, wood, cattle, chooso, oranges, and pumpkins wore
obtained. The water, which is procured from wells, is sweet when drawn,
and very bright, but is impregnated witli muriate of soda and nitre, wliieh
pervade tho soil. It conscfpiontly soon putroties on board. The country
about Cape San Lucas is mountainous, and probably granitic. Tho plains,
as well as the hills, are very abundant in cacti.

Tho navigator has no hidden dangers to fear ; all are above water. After
rounding tho Frayles from tho westward, ho may safely stand for tJie houses,
<lropping his anchor in 15 fathoms. Tho bad season is supposed to commouco
in June, and terminates on the Ist of November.

A word of caution in anchoring hero may be given. Tho Sulphur, on
shortening sail in coming to, had 10 fathoms, and inmiodiately after they
luul no bottom with 88 fathoms, just as they wore abcnit letting go the an-
chor. This shows the necessity of keeping tho lead on tho bottom before
letting go an anchor, or you nwy lose it.

CAFE SAN LUCAS, tho southern extremity of the peninsula, is in lat.
22" 52' N., long. 109" 53' AV. It gradually, though not very regularly,
descends from the very broken and uneven range of mountains which oxteiul
from the N.W., and terminates in its South extremity in a hummock of low,
or very moderately elevated, land, of a rocky, sterile appearance.

The coast between Cape San lAicas and the Island of Santa Margarita, a
distauco of 130 miles, is in nuiny parts composed of steep, white, rocky

mn.V OF MA(il>.\T.ENA-ALArM.IAS ItAV.

14t

fT, nnd at low
I'llfut. Hup]ily.
aiHo 11 lu'iivy
covor, vnrh n
lupldtod viTy
! Hca nl liifj^h
jhIi and iiiiiit
)ut tho labour
>ro aro no n -
1(1 plai'o ; and
aoHt grow np
15" N., long,
clifr botwoon
(f tho Hliorc,
[., lung. lO'r

Toni w'PHtorly
sea ivi)in tho
by reason of

I Sir Edward

nnipkins woro

wlion drawn,

nitro, vliicli

Tho country

Tho plains.

water. After
or tlio housoH,
il to couiuiouco

3 SuJpIiur, on
dy after they
g go the an-
jottoni before

ula, is in lat.
Dry regularly,
i which extend
nmock of low,
ee.

I Margarita, a
white, I'ocky

clill's; tlie country rising witli a very broken nnd uneven surface to the
ridge of stupendous niountains previously mentioned, and which are visililo
at a great distance into tho ocean. The slnn-es jut out into suuiii projei ting
points that teriniinito in abrupt clilfs, and Iiaving loss olovatod land b(N
hind them, gives them at first tlu' appearance of lieing detacluMl islands ;
but on a lu'arer approach this does not seem to be the case. The gc^iu'ral
face of the country is not very inviting, being destitute of trees and other
vegetable pi'oducti(jns.

After having doubled Capo 8an TiUcas, and proceeding alon'; tho coast, at
a short league from it, you llnd tlu) mission of Todim hs iSini/ox, which a
few years ago still contained a few Indians. TJn>ro is an nmhorage,
with a snudl rivulot where water can bo procured, and also provisions could
bo had.

At tho parallel of 2-1" tho mountains fonn a promontory, sunnonnted by
three peaks, tho truncated summits of which resemble tables, and which are,
from this reason, called. Lax Mmts de Narracz.

From this jwint tho coast runs nearly N.W. to the Iiirge island of Santa
Margarita, forming tho Houth entrance of tlie immense bay of La Mag-
dalena.

The GULF of MAODALENA is an extensive inland sea, whose existentte
was scarcely suspected in Europe prior to the vivnt of Capt. Sir E. Belcher,
in 1839, when ho minutely sun-eyed it, and tho lino clua-t recently pxiblished
is tho rosidt of that survey. Nearly at the same ti.no the Fr(fucli frigate
La VenuK, under Dii Petit Thenars, also surveyed its shores, fmd his plan,
much loss elaborate than that of our English hydrographors, forms a portion
of tho atlas accomj)anying tho voyage.

It may properly bo said to consist of two extensive bays : Almojas Bay to
the S.E., and Magdalena Bay, tlie principal, to tho N.W.

SANTA MARGARITA ISLAND, which forms tho seaward face of the
greater pai-t of those two bays, is about 22 miles in length, by '1^ in
average breadth. In its centre it is so low, that at a distan(?e it miglit be
taken for two separate islands, tho northern and southern portions being
high land.

Cajw Tosco is its S.E. point, nnd is bold-to. Four miles N.N."\V. from it
is Mount Santa Margarita, about 2,000 feet in height. To tho East of it is
tho southern and intricate entrance to the two bays, through the IMium
Channel, formed by the low sandy extremity of Cnun-icntc Mind, called Sta.
Marina Point. The tide runs very strongly tlu'ough this narrow channel,
which is much embarrassed by sandy patches nearly and quite awash.
No instructions can therefore bo given for this, and will be scarcely ever
re<]uired.

ALMEJAS BAY is about 12 miles in extent to tho N.W., and is divided
from the principal bay by a narro^\• but clear and deep channel, formed by

'■:»^JSS?aS?f^=vy-SP3?r.*^3*«»«*!W*»e*w««W*ir x^ ya i i e ^f^ ... i, to .».>,.i. j . , , M^-.g>y^

,,,2 I.OWETI CALTFOHNIA.

a sandy projection from the main land on tho N.E. Tho oxtromity of thin
in calloa Lengua (Ton^uo) Poiuf, and connootod with it is an oxtonnivo low
island, namod Mmiffiore Inland.

Houthward of thi« nundy tr .ot, tho is'and of Santa Margarita is dividod
into two Boparato tracts of mountainous land by a low sandy nock. Fnmi
the chart thoHo points would soom to bo tho olToct of currents, probably in
combination with tho Roologicnl clumgos lioroaftor noticed.

Tho North sido of Santa Margarita Island, from this strait, trends nearly
Wost, true, to its N.W. point. Cape Redomh, off whi(;h, to tho distanco of a
(piart'or of a mile, some sunken roi'ks extend. About midway botweon its
extremities, on the seaward face, is Pequena Hay, lying against the low tract
previously mentioned; Cape Judan forms its N.W. extremity. Two spiscnes
of tortoises are found on tho island, one of which is very good eating, but
tho shell is wortliless ; tho other, on tho contrary, is unfit for food, but tho
shell is excellent and valuable.

Tho entrance to Magdalona Iky lies between Cape Rodondo and Entrada
Point, the southern point of tho Snn Lazaro peninsula ; liko tho opposite
side, some sunken rocks lio off it. Mount Isabel, 1,270 ft. high, lies 3i miles
N.W. of it. The width of tho entrance is 2i miles, and tho depth botweon
the head 15 to 20 fathoms. At tho foot of Mount Isabel., within tho bay, a
frosh-water marsh is marked on tho chart. This is 3 miles within tho
entrance point. Five miles further on, on tho N.E. face of tho peninsula,
and near to where tho high land sinks to the long sandy ne(!k connected
with it northward, is tho anchorage under Delgada Point ; here Captain
Belcher estabUshed his observatory. This is in lat. 38° 24' 18' N., long.
112° 6' 21" N. This was at the foot of a hiU 600 feet in height, according
to M. do Tessan's chart.

Northward of this tho bay becomes very shallow, but has some deeper
channels extending northward, separated by extensive shoals, which havo
received tho names of Bu Petit Tkouars, Tcmn, and La Vcnm, tho French
surveyors and their ship. As there can be no inducement whatever for
entering them, no fuither notice here is necessary.

In the account of his exploration, Captain Sir Edward Belcher gives the-
following description of his progress : —

I was fully prepared to have found, as the name imported, an extensive)
bay but on entering the heads, which are about 2 miles asunder, no land
could be discemea from the deck, from N.W. to N.E. or East ; and oven
after entering, it was quite a problem, in this new sea, whore to seek for
anchorage, our depths at first, even near the shore, ranging from i7 to 30
fathoms. However, as tho prevailing windn appeared to bo westerly, I
determined on beating to windward, in which it eventually proved I was
correct. About 4 p.m. we reached a veiy convenient berth in 10 fathoms,
with a very sheltered position for our observatory. Frepavations wore im-

IMAGE EVALUATION
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23 «;eS' * >.IN STREET

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I.0WE11 CATjrOT?\TA.

14;J

TTiodiatoly nindo for the pxamination of tliis oxtonsive soa, or what I shall in
I'uturo tonn tlio Gulf of Mngduloua.

It is prol)al)lo that this part of tho coast formerly presented throe detached
inlands, viz., St. Lazarus range, Magdalena range, and Margarita range,
•with one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islets. It is not impro-
bable that its estuary meets thos* from lia Paz, fonning this portion of
Southern California into one immense archipelago.

Tho first part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of Avhat
held out some prospect of a fresh-water river, particularly as frequent marks
of cattle were noticed. In tho prosecution of this jmrt of our survey, wo
noticed that the St. Lazarus range is only connected by a very narrow belt
of sand between the two bays, and that tho summits of some of these sand
hills were covered in a most extraordinary manner by piles of fragile shells,
which resembled those found recently in the gulf. At elevations of 50 and
60 ft. these minute and fragile shells wore iouni perfect ; but on tho beaches,
either seaward or within, not a shell was visible. This is the more extraor-
dinary, as those sandy wastes are constantly in motion, and drowning every-
thing else, and yet these shells aro always exposed. On digging beneath
them to erect marks no beds of shells occurred, nothing but plain sand. It
was further remarkable, that they appeared to bo collected in familiojj,
principally area, venus, cardium, and murox ; when ostrea appeared they
were by themselves.

Tho cliffs throughout tho guK abound in organic remains, and I cannot
but believe that the same cause has produced tho above unaccountable phe-
nomena, which I witnessed throughout a range of at least 90 miles.

Having explored tho westernmost estuary, about 17 miles North of our
observatory, until no end appeared of its intricacies, I resolved on attempt-
ing a second, which afTordod a wider entrance, about 4 miles beyond the
last, and it still offered amplo scope for employment, tho advance boats
being at that moment in 4 fathoms, and distant heads in view ; but finding
no hope of reaching fresh water, I determined on adhering to its main
outlines.

By November 9th (1839), we had reached the East end of the first gulf,
and found tho channel or strait connecting them not more than a quarter of
a mile wide. I was sanguine in expecting that we shoiUd discover a safe
channel out by the East end of Margarita, but I found that our boats, and,
upon emergency, the Starling, might have passed out, but it was far too
difficult and doubtful for the ship.

We had frequently seen, indistinctly, the outlines of very \ .gh mountains
to tho eastward, distant 50 or (iO miles ; but on this day I could detect
breaks which indicated water-courses between them, and could plainly
follow out yellow breaks of cliffs as far as the eyo could trace inland. I
have not tho slightest doubt that these estuaries flow past them, and pro-

I m

if.

J »ii

T/>WEI^ CALIFOENTA.

l)(il)ly to the very haso of tlio most distnnt inoimtaiTi, ovoii into the Gulf of
f'alifoniin. As I nin iiifonnc.l that tlicro o.ro no fresh streams in the district
of La Taz, and that siniihir ei^teros run westerly from that neishhourhood, it
is not improb' hlo that they meet. Althouf,'h the soUition of this question
may not ho commercially imioortaut, it is liighly interesting in a geogra-
phical point of view.

After all the time expended (18 days) on this immense sheet of wat(>r, it;
will natnally bo enquired, what advantages does the port offer ? Tlio reply
is, at the present moment, sh(>lter ; and from s(>veral water-courses, which
wore nearly diy at the time of our visit, it is evident that very powerful
streams scour the valleys in the winter season, which, in this region, is
roekimed between May and (October.

Fuel can bo easily obtained in the estuaiy (mangrove).
As a port for refit after any disaster it is also very convciiiient ; and for
tliis purpose either our northern or southern observatory bays may b(>
selected. The latter would afford hotUn- shelter ; but tho fonner is certainly
more convenient, the access to it being iMitirely free from shoals.

In war it would bo a most oligiblo rendezvous, particularly if watching the
coasts of Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the fomiation of an
establisliment without adequate naval force, and tho nature of the country
itself woidd not maintain an opposing party.

Tho island of Margarita would afford an excellent site for a deposit for
naval stores. MartcUo towers on the heads of entrance would completely
command it, and, excepting on tlio outside, no force could be landed.

Water would doubtlobs flow into wells, of which wo had proof in spots
where the wild beasts had scraped holes ; but from some (no doubt romov
able) causes, it was intensely bitter. There is nothing in tho geological
constitution of the hill to rend(>r it so.

Tho ranges of hills composing the three suites of mountains vary from
1,500 to 2,000 feet.

It is high water, fuU and change, in Magdalona Bay, at 7'' 3.5"' ; rise 6 ft.
3 inches; variation 0"" l.V E.— (1838).

From Entrada I'oint, tho entrance to Magdalena Bay, to Cape Corso,
which is at the North end of tho elevated part of the penhisida, the distance
is 9 miles, tho breadth of tho peniusida being here, on an average, about

2 miles.

From Cape Corso to tho S.E. point of Cape Lazaro, tlio distance is 7^
miles, and tlio outer coast is fonned by the long, narrow, sandy neck which
separates the ocean from the entrance channels in the North part of M.-ig-
dalena Bay, before noticed. This recedes 4 or 5 miles from the general lino
of the coast, and forms under Cape Lazaro, that is, to tho southward of it,
tho Bay of Santa Maria.

Cape San Lazaro is in lat. 21° 44' 50', and is 1,300 feet in height ;

o the Gulf of
in tho (liHtj'ict
libourhooil, it
tliis question
in a googra-

t of ■\vat(T, it
? Tlio reply
jursos, which
cry po\V(>rful
[lis region, is

icnt ; and for

)ays may 1)0

vY is certainly

■1,

' wati'hiiig tho

•niation of an

if the country

' a deposit for
Id completely
iinded.

proof in spots
doubt romov
the geological

lins vary from

SS™ ; riso 6 ft.

() Cnpc Corst),
a, tho distance
iverage, about

distance is 7^
dy nock which
li part of Mag-
18 general lino
uthward of it,

ieet in height ;

BALTiEXAS BAY.

145

honco the coast trends to the East and northward, and is stoop-to as far
as the small bay {Pcqucna Bay) formed by Point Santo Domingo, in about
lat. 26°.

The ALIJ08 ROCKS, or Faralhnes Rocks, a cluster of four high, de-
tached, and remarkable rocks, lie off 140 miles from this part of the coast.
They are in lat. 24° 51', and long. 115" 47'. This position was accxirately
determined by Admiral Du Petit Thenars, who saw them for tho second time.
They will be again noticed hereafter, but, from their dangerous character,
they must be alluded to hero.

The coast beyond Point Santo Domingo trends to tho N.W. for nearly 20
leagues, and then turns abruptly for 10 leagues to the S.E. to Point Abreojos,
forming Ballenas Bay, in lat. 2G= 42' N., long. 113° 34' W.

BALLENAS BAY is entirely open tf> the South. The soundings in the
bay are quite regular, and extend n long way off shore, gradually decreasing
to 3 fathoms, within a mile of tho beach. With the strong coast winds a
lieavy swell sets in which causes a high surf along its shores. Whales of the
"humpback" species make this a favourite feeding-ground, on account of
the myriads of small fish found here. In the fine season, countless flocks of
pelicans are seen making awkward plunges to catch their swimming food.
At 15 miles eastward of Point Abreojos is a small estero.

The shores of the main land form the eastern boundary of tho bay of
Ballenas, where in lat. 26° 45', is found the entrance to a lagoon. It was
first seen in 1857 by Capt. Pool, of the whaling barque Sarah Warren. In
1859 a whaling fle'nt first entered it.

The main branch of the lagoon is 2 miles wide, from shore to shore, at its
raouth ; running North for 3 miles, it then turns a little to tho West, and
doubles its width 6 miles from the bar ; then gradually contracting, it comes
to an end 8 miles further up, making ^he whole 'ength 14 miles. A small
branch, making from the South part of the entrance, and ta fing a more
easterly course, runs through a low flat country, a distance of 12 or 15
miles, where it reaches a high table land. Another small estero, 1 5 miles
further South, emptying into the sea, joins the southern branch of the main
lagoon.

Near the head of this sheet of water are two islands, not over 4 miles in
length and 1 in width. Both are very low. The upper island, on its highest
part, has a growth of trees and low bushes, which gives it a pleasant con-
trast with the surrounding country. The southern island is quite barren ;
flocks of grey gulls, pelicans and cormorants, literally covered its shell
beaches. Around the shores large numbers of huge turtle lay sleeping, and
shoals of cowfish and porpoises played.

The face of the country, immediately in the vicinity of this inland water,
on either hand, is low, quite level, and extremely barren. To the south-
eastward rises a long table-land, to the height of a thousand feet or more,
Korth Pacific. L

i'!"i",.JA ' -!'mS

-u..mu.ia ' i)k:

146 LOWER CALIFORNIA.

and tlien comos a wild mountain country as far as tho oyo can rco. To the
N.E. there is a belt of level laud, that appears to extend through tho penin-
sula to tho Gulf of California.

The native name of this lagoon is Susa Maria. In a northerly direction
from its head, distant 35 miles, rises a mountain, showing three swells of
land at its summit; it is called San Ignacio, and at its foot is a mission bear-
ing the same name. As you view this mountain from tho coast, a etiU
higher elevation is seen, standing alone, with rounded peak.

The entrance to this fiue body of water is shoal, narrow, and extremely
dangerous, on account cf the strong currents running in different directions
at different stages of tho tide. Seven feet of water only is found at low
tide, the riso and fall being about 6 foot. A heavy swell usually rolls on the
bar at full and change of tho moon, and it is only practicable for smaU
vessels of light draught.

Point Abreojos, tho N.W. point of Ballenas Bay, is quite low, and a small
creek lies immediately North of it. An outlying reef of rocks extends 6
miles from the low land of the point. Abreojos (" Open-your-eyes ") seems
a fitting name for it. There is a good passage between it and tho main,
which may be used in case of necessity, although it is not generally known.

The coast northward of Point Abreojos is low near tho shore line ; but tho
beach fronting it, being composed of white sand, is seen a considerable dis-
tance at sea, contrasting with the brown clay cliffs and banks.

At 48 miles beyond Point Abreojos is Asuncion Island, lat. 27° 8' N., long.
114° 18' W., a small isolated spot, once the resort of vast herds of sea
animals, and therefore was covered with inferior guano. At 8 miles further
is another and similar island, San Eoque, which is somewhat lower, but
now unfrequented. The coast is thence clear for 40 miles to tho north-
westward.

SAN BARTOLOME' BAY, or Turtle Bay, as it also called by the whalers,
lies to the South of Point San Eugenio. The bay is formed by a high range
of loose cliffs on the North and a fine gravelly bay on the East, and a
coarse sandy tongue connects a high peninsula, or island at high water, in
its centre, forming a third southern bay. From this peninsula rocks extend
northerly, partly under water, jutting into the heart of tho bay, and forming
a safe land-locked position, having 5 fathoms within.

The sheltered position where the whalers resort to cooper their oil is within
a range of reefs which divides the bay, from seaward, into two parts. Tho
anchorage taken by H.M.S. Sulphur was in 7 fathoms, sheltered from all
but S.W. winds, but bad holding-ground. The surrounding land is high
and mountainous.

The place of observation on the northern head of the bay is in lat. 27° 40
N., long. 114° 61' 20" W. Wood may bo procured here— in case of extreme
necessity— by searching for low green bushes in the level land about tho

CERROS OR CT.DROS ISLAND.

147

in Rco. To tho
)Ugh the ponin-

thorly direction
three swells of
a mission bear-
10 coast, a etill

and extremely
orent directions
is found at lov
ally rolls on the
cable for small

low, and a small
rocks extends 6
ir-eyes") seems
and tho main,
neraily known,
re line ; but tho
onsiderable dis-

27° 8' N., long.
ist herds of sea
t 8 miles further
vhat lower, but
9S to the north-

, by the whalers,
by a high range
the East, and a
it high water, in
lula rocks extend
)ay, and forming

;heir oil is within
two parts. Tho
leltered from all
ling land is high

• is in lat. 27° 40'
1 case of extreme
1 land about tho

shores; tho roots avo found running noar tlio top of tho ground 8 or 10 foot
long and often six inches through ; they burn roadily, and produco llio re-
quired hoat.

In proceeding along tho coast, tho Point San Eugcnio, which appears to
form but one Tiromontory with Natividad Island, lying off its wostorn ex-
tremity, should bo avoided.

The Island of Natividad lies S. J E., distant 14 miles from tho peaked
mountain on Cerros Island. Its highest point is 700 foot abovo tho sea ; its
length 5 miles, and not over 1 milo at its broadest part. It is extremely
barren ; neither slirub nor tree is found here ; and it is cnly resorted to by
largo numbers of sea-fowl, as a breeding-place. From an islet off tho N.W.
end, there lias been several cargoes of guano taken. Between Natividad and
Point Eugonio (the S.W. point of tho bay of San Sebastian Vizcaino), a reef,
on which in bad weather there aro heavy breakers, lies 1 milo to tho east-
ward of Soal Rock ; the channel between Natividad and the main, is not,
therefore, so safe as is generally supposed, as in fine weather it breaks only
M intervals.

Here, aa at Capo San Lazaro, tho whalers come, passing by night between
tlie island and tho main land, and anchoring against tho point, which is
very low. The passage between the island and this point is 7 or 8 miles ^ndo.
In approaching from the South, a tolerably high mountain called Morro
Ilermoso, shows itself to the south-eastward of the point. In coming from
tho North the islands of Cerros and San Benito will be a sufficient guide.

To the East of Point San Eugenio, tho coast recedes considerably for tho
space of a degree of latitude, forming the great bay of Sebastian Vizcaino,
in which, in lat. 28° 66', is the small bay of Pescado Blanco, formed by a
point 5 or 6 miles in oxtont, which projects to the southward.

CEEROS or CEDEOS ISLAND forms tho most western side of tho bay
of San Sebastian Vizcaino. It is from 25 to 30 miles long, and its South
point is in lat. 28° 3' N., long. 115° 11' \V. It is an Island of mountains
throughout its whole extent, being a mass of high, abrupt peaks, the highest
of wliich is 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, and may be distinctly seen,
in clear weather, 60 miles. On a near approach, tho sombre, barren appear-
ance of all brought to view is anything but inviting. Many of tho southern
slopes present a dark red hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs, that
give a little change to the otherwise dull scene. On landing, one is at onco
fully sensible of tao extreme dry atmosphere prevailing ; stiU there must bo,
occasionally, heavy rains, producing mountain torrents.

On tho N.E. side, about 3 miles from the extreme North end, a low sandy
point makes out; to tho southward of this is good anchorage during the
prevailing coast winds. In a ravine near it is a small stream of fresh water ;
and likewise in several of the valleys leading from tho shore lino to the
southward, water may be found within a mile of tho beach. At one of these

I- 2

it'i

'TssmmmtmeD^yfnr^aiiii&xmir.^^x.^'sr^it

118

LOWER CALIFORNIA.

]ilace8 it is of excollent quality. Tho only practicable place, however, for a
fillip to obtain a largo supply, is on the S.E. side, where there is a spring
running among rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore.

Anchorage may bo had off this spring, within 2 cables' lengths of tho
shore, in 20 fathoms of water ; but a much bettor place for a ship to lie is 2
miles further South, off a low shinglo beach.

A vessel can always find sholtor from the N.W. winds on the South sido
of the island, in depths varying from 6 to 25 fathoms ; thoso winds blow
with tho regularity of a " trade," from May to October, and the only pre-
caution to be kept in mind in choosing an anchorage is to avoid fixed kelp.
From October to May the winds arc generally light and the weather de-
lightful. Occasionally a strong " norther," or a light S.E. galo, blows the
iirst part of tho winter, and strong gales from the N.W. again set in about
tho 1st of May.

The San Benito Islands are three in number ; the westerly one in lat.
28^ 12' N., long. 11-5" 46' W. Two of these ore moderately high, the middle
one is quite low. They lay 15 miles to the westward of Cerros, and are only
separated from each other by narrow passages of water, where boats may
pass in safety, but not practicable for large vessels. The whole length of
tho three islands is not more than 10 miles. The western one is the largest.
It is about 3 miles wide by 5 in length ; tho other two being less than half
that extent. They are all very barren, affording neither wood nor water.
The seal and sea elephant are the only animah found upon them.

Anchorage may be had on the S.E. side of the middle island, in from 10
to 20 fathoms water, but it is rough, rocky bottom, and affords poor holding
ground.

In 1853 there was found on the S.W. end of the largest of this group, the
remains of what was supposed to be a Japanese jank.

SAN SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO BAY,* an extensive indentation of the
coast, lies within Cerros Island ; but we have no nautical particulars of it,
nor does it appear to possess any point of special intere.st.

Playa Maria Bay.— Northward of Pescado Blanco Bay, in lat. 28° 55' N.,
long. 114° 31' W., is Santa Maria Point, to the East of which is Playa
Maria Bay, the limits of which may be taken as Blatk Point, about 6
miles S.E. by compass from Santa Maria Point. The bay is open, but
cleai- ; and inland, 2 miles from tho head of it, is a hill called the Nipple,
1,132 feet high; and in the North part of the bay, on the coast, is what

* Sebastian Vizcaino, from wliora this namo is derived, was charged by tho Spanish vice-
toy of Mexico, Don Gaspar do Zunisa, (lount de Monterey, to survey these coasts. He sot
sail on this commission from Acapulco, May .5th, 1602, with four vessels, and among others
discovered and named tho Port of Jlontorey, which has remained the capital of this
countiy up to recent times.

), however, for a
there is a spring
» shore.

i' lengths of the
a ship to lie is 2

n the South side
loso winds blow
id the only pre-
ivoid fixed kelp,
the weather do-
galo, blows the
gain set in about

ierly one in lat.
high, the middle
ros, and arc only
?hero boats may
whole length of
ne is the largest,
ig less than half
svood nor water,
them.

and, in from 10
>rds poor holding

•f this group, the

identation of the
particulars of it,

in lat. 28° 55' N.,
P which is Playa
c Point, about 6
bay is open, but
jailed the Nipple,
le coast, is what

by the Spanish \i(i<i-
thesQ coasts. lie sot
Is, and among others
1 the capital of this

SAN SEBASTIAN VIZCAINO IJAY. l id

Captain KoUet calls Station Peak, 250 feet high. The variation lino in 1847
was 8' 44' E.

Wo have no particulars of the const northward of this, furf lior than wliat
the Spanish charts afford us, until we como to t^an Gcroniwn Mm/, whoso
position is determined as hit. 29'^ 48', long. 1 15^ 47'. The next plueo is Port
Sun Quontin.

PORT SAN QUENTIN is the name applied or chosen by Sir Edward
Belcher for the harbour, which, under several Spanish and K>.glish
charts, is called the Bay of San Francisco. Tliis is much prof.rablo, a.
the triple repetition of this name on this coast, applied by tlio Spaniards
in honour of their patron saint, po(!uliarly .so regarded by the navigators in
the Pacific, has led to confusion. Captain Sir Edward Bel.hor's plan does
not notice ^.rmer synonymos, but we take the following extracts as annlyiu-
to this spot:— n J »

Cape San Qumtin (or Virgenes), the western point of the Port San Quen-
tm, IS a long, low, projecting point of land. From this it take.s a course of
about N.N.W. for 8 miles, to Point Zuniga of Captain Vancouver. This
portion of the coast consists of five remarkable hummocks, nearly of equal
height and size, moderately elevated, with two smaller ones close to the
water side, tho whole rising from a tract of very low and nearly level land,
forming a very projecting promontory. Tliis was named by Vancouver,
Point Five Hummocks, who says that it is us conspicuous and remarkable
as any projecting point tho land affords.

In coming down tho coast from the northward, ho had taken it for a series
of detached islands.

The following arc Sir Edward Belcher's observations on the port :—

"Port San Quontin does not afford anything equal to San Uiego, but it is
more secure when within, and might afford fresh water.

The sandy point on tho Woct side of the entrance is situated in lat. 30° 22'
N., long. 1 15» 56' 33 ' W. High water, fuU and change, 9" 5"-, rise 9 feet.

The whole coast is dreary, being either sand hills or volcanic mountains,
five of which, very remarkably placed, caused one of tho early navigators to
call it the Bay of Five Hills. It is the Bay of the Virgins of tho former, and
Port San Quentin of the later Spanish surveyors.* As it appears engraved
under tho latter, on an extensive scab (which misled us and caused our
touching), I have preferred that name for it.

The Island and Paps of Las Virgenes (Cenizas?) are situated to sea-
ward, about 2 miles from what has been termed Observatory Peak in our
plan.

* Tho North promontory is callod, by Vancouver, Point Five Ilummocka, as before men-
t.oned. In his chart, tho bay to tho North of Point Zuniga, tho North end of the pro-
montory, IS culled the Bay do lus Virgenes.

■^*wwi»pgag«j^>ggagg« ; ^M >- wjiM r. w »pa a ' g K < iv» » = .^ ' «fl ' ' " ^- r

■ 'JKj^C ; rli'S ^'J**i::"'

,50 LOWEPt CALIFOENIA.

Point Zuniga, according to Vancouver's chart (ho pasbod near to it), is tho
North extronio of Avhat he called Five Hummock I'oint, and is 6 or 7 miles
N.W. by N. of Capo San Quentin.

Cenizas Island, or S. llikrio Mind or Virgmes, of Sir E. Belcher, lies
off Point Zuniga about 3 milos. It is 4 milos in circuit, of a triangular
form. Its western side is formed of stoop high cliffs, but its N.E. and S.E.
Bides terminate in low sandy land, extending toward tho continent.

CAPE COLNETT is about 30 miles northward of Cenizas Island. Tho
interval forms the largo bay of San Ramon, or De los Virgenes. Cape Col-
nott is very remarkable from its shape and appearance, as likewise by its
forming a bay on its N.W. and another on its S.E. side. It was thus called
by Vancouver, who says :-"Thi8 promontory bore a very singular character
us wo passed. Tho cUffs already described as composing it aro, about
tho middle, between thoir summit and the water side, divided horizontally
nearly into two equal parts, and formed of different materials; tho lower
part seemed to consist of sand or clay, of a very smooth surface, and
light colour. The upper part was evidently of a rocky substance, with
a very uneven surface, and of a dark colour. This soomod to bo again
divided into narrow columns by vortical strata. Those apparent divisions,
as well horizontally as vertically, existed with great uniformity all round
tho promontory."

From Capo Colnett to Point Grajoro, tho distance is about 50 miles. At 3
leagues S. by E. of Point Grajero, lie a cluster of detached rocks {Solitarios
Tdand), about half a league from a smaU projecting point, that forms a bay
or cove on each side of it.

At Point Grajoro the coast takes a sharp turn to S.E., forming the Hay of
Todos los Santos. Off the cape some rocky islets and rocks extend N.W. i
W., a league distant.

The coast northward of Todos los Santos Bay consists of high, steep,
rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, and composing a craggy, moun-
tainous country, extending in a N.W. by N. direction for about 10 leagues
to roint San Miguel, when it assumes a more northerly direction, or N. by
W. I W., for 6 leagues. The shores still continue to be of steep rocky
cliffs, which in general rise, though not very abruptly, to a very hilly
countiy, remiirkablo for three conspicuous mountains, entirely dettichod from
ono another, rising in quick ascent at a little (Ustanco from tho shore, on a
nearly plain and oven surface. The uortherumost of these presented the ap-
pearance of a table in all directions from the ocean ; the middle one termi-
luitod in a sharp peak; and the southernmost in an irregular form. Tho
centre one of tlioso remarkable mountains lies from I'ort San Diego, S.E. by
S., distant 9 leagues, and, at a distance, may servo to point out that port.
They wcro culled tho Tables, or Mesas do Juan Gomez.
At the South cud of San Diego Bay is the boundary mark placed bctwoon

ax to it), 18 tho
[a 6 or 7 inilos

. Belcher, lies
f a triangular
N.E. aud S.E.
lion t.

i Island. The
ics. Cape Col-
[ikcwise by its
was thus called
iTiilar character

it aro, about
led horizontally
ials; tho lower
h surface, and
mbstanco, with
id to bo again
aront divisions,
mity all round

50 miles. At 3
rocks {Soli tar ios
lat forms a bay

ning the Baij of
extend N.W. i

of high, steep,
craggy, moun-
bout 10 leagues
ition, or N. by
of steep rocky
to a very hilly
y dottichod from
the shore, on u
iresouted tho ap-
ddlo one tormi-
ular form. Tho
1 Diego, S.E. by
t oiit that port.

i placed between

THE COTIONADOS.

l,')!

tiio Mexican and United States territories ; and to the .southward, about 8
miles off, is tho small cluster called Los Coronados by Vizcaino, in l(i02, but
they wore discovered by Cabrillo in 1512. Tiiey wero named after ouo of
tho governors under Cortos.

The CORONADOS, belonging to Mexico, lie about 7 miles off tho coast,
and are a group of high, bold, and abrupt rocks aud iolets, of which tho
largest is 15 miles S. by E. from Point Lomn, about If mile iu length, by
one third of a milo in breadth. It is a wedge-shaped mass, 575 feet high,
entirely destitute of trees, though in tho raiuy season it has ubundauco of
gaudily-coloured wild flowers. There is anchorage about one quarter of a
nulo to tho eastward of tho islet, and but one dillicult lauding place. Accord-
ing to George Davidson, Esq., it is iu lat. 83" 2.'}' 4(j' N., long. 117' 13'
21" W.

On tho West and N.W. sides of tho islet, and about half o milo distant,
lie two smaller ones, or rather two masses of baro rock, 50 feet high, tho
favourite resort of enormous sea-elephai '.s. ExcoUont anchorage is said to
bo found in tho vicinity. Tho smaller of tho two prominent islots is 2| miles
N. 58° W. from tho larger. It is a huge barren rock, with a very sharj)
summit.

In coming from tho South this group p%rds l good mark for making
San Diogo, although before being up with them, I'oiut Loma shows dis-
tinctly.

i I

■;! W»i» i ««>» j «w« g?<*tiaKaaBWj^ »& »isft aw ^i W';»

( I'V.' )

CnArTER IV.

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

In tlio (•(•nnuonnomont of the prccodiu},' ilmptor, some ronmrkft aro pivpn
which may bn taken in eonnoctiou with the present subject. Until May lU),
1848, the countries respcKiiveiy (lennminated Upper and Lower, or Now and
Ohl, California, were u-.idor one dominion, subject to the sumo laws, and
under tlie influence of the same social system ; intimately coimocted with
each other morally, aiul having the samc^ origin in a political sense, their
liistorios may be considered as identica . When, however, a new order of
things bocame established, and Upper California was coded to the dominion
of the United States, while the Lower Peninsula remained mi appendage to
Mexico, a wonderful chang.3 took place in the importance of these two terri-
tories, not so much arising from the (change of masters as from the great
event of the present ceutury-tho discovery of the gold produce of the basins
of the rivers falhng into the Bay of San Francisco.

TJie first discovery or exploration of this part of the Anerican coast was
made hi 1540, under the orders of Don Antonio de Mendoea, the viceroy of
Mexico, who despatched Francisco Vasquez Coronado by land, and Francisco
Alareon by sea, in search of the supposed Strait of Anian, which, it was
said, communicated with the Athmtic Ocean. Alargon reached the 36th
parallel (South of Monterey), but was then forced to return. The same
project was resumed in 1542 by Rodrigues de CabriUo, a Portuguese in the
Spanish service. He reached the latitude of 44^ His principal discovery
was a projecting point in lat. 40i^ to which he gave the name Cape Mendo-
t,'ino, by which it is still known.

The Spaniards seem to have forgotten these discoveries, till, in 1578, Sir
Francis Drake passed the Strait of Magalluieus, then scarcely known, and
traversed the great ocean fi-om South to North, reaching the N.W. coast of
America in lat. 48" North. He then coasted the shore downwards, and dis-
covered the harbour now bearing his name to the N.W. of Sau Francisco,

TTTE rOAST OF rALIFOT^NIA.

\:,:\

irl<fi iiro given

Until May .•}(),

ir, or Now ami

luio laws, and

loimoctod with

il sense, their

now order of

the dominion

appendage to

hose two terri-

rum the great

!e of the basins

can coast was
the viceroy of
and Francisco
which, it was
iched the 36th
u. The same
rtuguose in the
sipal discovery
3 Capo Mendo-

, in 1578, Sir
ly known, and
N.W. coast of
vards, and dis-
Sau Francisco,

whoro ho made some stay. lie horo fonnally tof)k possossion of the country
in tho name of Elizahoth, (iuoen of England, imposing tlio name of Now
Albion on it.

Tho expeditions of Drake, of Cavendish in l.')87, and of Van Noort in
1508, gave rise to considerable jealousy with tho Spaniards. They dotor-
minod to coloni/o these coasts. Accordingly, Don Oaspar do Zuniga, Count
do Monterey, tho viceroy of Mexico, despatched Siibastian Vizcaino, in 1(;()2,
whoso most northern important (liscoverj' was the harbour, wliich, in hcmour
of the viceroy, he named the PuOi^o do S'otitorey. The Spaniards had found
several missions on the Californian I'oninHula, us has been before mentioned,
and tho ruins of these great establislnnonts still remain to testify as to their
magnitude and importance. On June 25tli, 1707, the Emperor Charles III.
ubohshod tho Society of Jesus (Jesuits) in Lower California, and gave tlieir
property to tho Franciscan order. Sixteen of tlin mtmlcs of this latter fra-
ternity landed at Loroto, in Lower California, in 17l)f under tho Visitador,
Don Josef do Galvoz ; and soon after they established prosidios and missions
of San Carlos do Monterey, and tlio same at San 1 )iego, in such a way as to
protect all tho country, adding, as an intermo ' e point, tho mission of San
Bueiavontura. In tho founding those missions, for which Don Vincente
Vila set sail in January, 1769, tho vessels met witi' thu grontost difficidtio.s
from adverse winds ; but thoy were overcome. All this, however, did not
make known to tho explorers the exi.stonce of tho finest harbour of all, that
of San Francisco, which was subsequently discovered by a land expedition, in
1770.

When tho revolution in 1823 occurred, which separated Cahfornia from
Old Spain, a frosh order of things was established, and the country was de-
prived of their rohgious establishments ; the consequent ruin of these once
nourishing communities naturally followed, and nothing can bo more de-
plorable than the subsequent accounts of their doivnward progress.

The result of tho warfare between the United States and the republic of
Mexico was the cession by tho latter of the territories of Cahfornia and Now
Mexico to tho United States Government. The exchange of ratification
of this treaty took place on May 30th, 1848.

Among the settlors who had introduced themselves into Upper Cahfornia,
.liter the revolution, was Captain Suter, by birth a Swiss, and who liad been
a lioutonant in tho Swiss guards during the time of Charles X. of France.
Ho had obtained a large grant on the Sacramento River. Ho fixed his
abode and fortification at tho head of the tide on tho Sacramento, calling it
New Helvetia. He constructed a water-mill here, and after one of tho
freshets to which the stream is hable, on examining the earth brought down
by tho waters, some particles of goi-.^ were picked up, the discovery being
almost purely accidental. Further search was made, and an immense quan-

- 3ipi''Jff l'-^*« '» iT»' ^'j'»CT^»* ^ . i- J T ^a * ,: "'?jti?'.«

■•■'z.-^'iv-fi'^ •t7aii.i!L-'3-if:-^

154 THE COAST OT' CALIFORNIA.

tity of tlio pvocious metal, no doubt, was coUoctcd* Ere long tliis fact
aequii-o<1 publicity, and immediately almost the entire male popiUation of
California flocked to the gold region, being tho pioneers for the vast influx
from every part of the Pacific and noighboui-iug countries, increasing the
population one hundredfold in tho course of a very few months. We cannot
traco out here tho progress of tlio gold movement, which received its fii-st
impetus in 1848. This very singular chapter in tho world's history has many
illustrations in other places.

The population of California, a very mixed one, is now probably not less
than half a million. In 18(i() it was 379,994, being an increase of 310i per
cent from 1850. Its area, according to tho Eoport of tho U.S. Government
Land Office in 1866, was 188,981 square English miles.

Immediately after its accession to the United States measures were taken
by tho Government to commence a complete survey of tho coast. Accord-
ingly, in tho autumn of 1648 a surveying party Avas organised for field work,
and tho Bchooner Ewing, under Lieutenant W. A. Bartlett, U.S.N., was
despatched in 1849, and subsequently a general roconaissanco of the wholo
coast was comiileted. Commander Jas. Alden published, in 1853, tho re-
sults of this preliminary examination, and in 1858 Assistant G«o. Davidson
drew up a Directory for this Pacific Coast of the United States, and this
useful work was revised and republished by the same zealous officer in 1863.
This latter work has been followed hereafter, as it gives a complete hy-
drographical picture of tho coast.

The Winds,— Tho following remarks are extracted from Mr. Davidson's
work :— It has been advised to work close along shore to tho northern
ports during tho summer north-west winds, and take tho chances of land
breezes to make latitude, but the attempt wiU double the length of any
voyage. Baffling light airs and cahus frequently exist along the coast,
while vessels several hundred miles off have strong N.AV. winds. Moreover,
along the coast we know that the civrent frequently sets 2 miles per hour
from the northward, except very close under tlio shores. In our experience
we never yet have met a wind off tho land Noi-th of San Francisco, and very
rarely, indeed. South of it, except in the region of the Santa Barbara chan-
nel. As a general rule, it may bo safely stated that tho smumor winds
follow the lino of the coast, nearly, and groduaUy draw towards and over
tho laud. In winter, with winds from the southward, this is not so marked.
From April to October inclusive, tho prevailing wind is from the N.W.,
changing to West in valleys opening upon the coast, br+ in no case so

* It is Blngulai- that tlio oxistence of gold wns ascertained by Sir Francis Drake, for
llakluyt, who was with him, said, in 1589, "There is no part of the earth here to bo taken
up whoiuiu thoro is not n reasonable quantity oi gold and silver." Yet this tiavcllcr'g tale
remained unheeded for nearly two and half centuries, till .^une, 18tS.

"-' ■ ."M B !l- i -i" ''

iro long tliis fact
ilo population of
)r the vast influx
OS, increasing tlie
utliB. We cannot
received its fii'st
history has many

probably not loss
;rease of 310i per
U.S. Govommont

asures were taken
10 coast. Accord-
;sod for field work,
tlott, U.S.N., was
anco of the wholo
1, in 1853, the ro-
ant Greo. Davidson
d States, and this
0U8 officer in 1863.
ves u complete hy-

om Mr. Davidson's
re to the northern
ho chances of land
the length of any
t along the coast,
winds. Moreover,
s 2 miles ]}er hour

In our experience
Francisco, and very
mta Barbara chan-
tho Bunimer winds
V towards and over
is is not so marked.
. is from the N.W.,

bV- in no case so

Sir Francis Drake, for
le curth horc to bo taken
Yet this tiavcllor'* talo

THE COAST OF CALIFOIJXIA. 155

8tr.jngly as througli tlio Golden Gate. During the summer the wind sets
in strong about 10 a.m., increasing until nearly suu.set. when it begins to
die away. During its height it almost regularly brings in a dense fog,
wliich, working its way over tlio peninsula, meets that already advanced
through the Golden Gate, and envelopes San Francisco and the bay by
•sunset. As a rule, the breeze does not dispel the fog. If a ftjg exists
outside, the wind is sure to bring it in, but the lieated earth dissipates it
for a time.

From November to Mardi tlie wind is frequently from tJio S.E., blowing
lieavily, working round to the S.W., with a largt, and broken swell from the
S.AV., woatlier thick, rainy, and etiually ; the wind not unftvquently ending
at N.W., with an ugly cross sea. During heavy south-oasters the stS
breaks upon the San Francisco bar, clean across the entrance, presenting a
fearful sight. TJie sound can be heard at the anchorage in front of the
city.

During some winters a hard " norther" wiU spring up and blow steadily
and strongly from one to five days, with a clear blue sky, and cold bracing
weather. Winds rarely blow from points between North, round by the
East, to S.E.

The further North wo advance, the heavier blow tlio gales in the winter.
The N.W. winds are n<,t predicted by the barometer, but, from tho S.E
almost invariably ; tho mercury faUing one inch from ite usual height of
about 30 inches. When it begins to rise, the wind may bo looked upon as
soon to shift round by tho West, and to decrease. Only in one instance
during our experience has tliis failed, and that was oil' tho Strait of Juan
do Fuca.

On tho tops of tho mountains bordering the coast, light variable and
easterly airs aro fr-jquently experienced whilst the N.W. winds are blowing
freslily along the seaboard. Upon Sulphur Peak, in lat. 38^^ 4C', and 26
miles fnmi the coast, wo have had fresh breezes from tho E.N.E., whilst tho
usual N.AV. winds were prevailing ofl' shore. On Eoss Mountain, only 3
miles from tho sea, and rising 2,197 feet from the right bank of the Slavi-
anska river, we found variable uirs when strong summer winds were bloT\ing
below.

The COAST.— The monument marking tho western initial point of the
boundary between Mexico and tho United States, is on tho table bluff rising
from tho low land South of San Diego Bay. It is an obelisk of white marble,
about 20 feet in height, and .-osting on a pedestal. It stands near tho edge
of tho bluff, about 200 yards from tho sea shore, and is plainly visible from
tho water. Its geogi-aphical position, as determined by tho coast survey is
lat. 32'^ »1' 58.46' N., long. 117- 6' 11.12" W., or in time, 7" 48'" 24.74». '

From tlie boundary tho coast is low and flat, running N. by W. for about
7 miles, thence curving gradually westward, until it is nearly East and

i* a U<l** <¥:*»*»»;

r-^*r^=K^^^!?^X-^^>^imr ■

lof)

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

The interior of the country is

West at the entrance of San Diego Bay.
marked by high mountains.

POINT LOMA.— This is the southern part of the western boundary of
San Diego Bay, and the termination of a remarkable narrow spur of coarse,
crumbling sandstone, which rises South of Puerto Falso, or False Bay, and
West of the town of San Diego, to the height of 300 feet ; and after etietch-
iug South for about 5i miles, gradually increasing in height to 421^ feet, ter-
minates very abruptly. A Ughthome, presently described, stands on this
highest part. The peninsula is covered with coarse grass, cacti, wild sago,

and low bushes.

SAN DIEGO BAY.— Next to that of San Francisco, no harbour on the
Pacific coast of the United States approximates in excellence that of the Bay
of San Diego. It is readily distinguished and easily approached, and a
depth of 22 feet can bo carried over the bar, which is three-quarters of a
mile East of tho southern extremity of Point Loma, and between it and
the tail of the Zuniga shoal. The bar is about 650 yards across from tho
outer to the inner S-fathoms lines.

Vessels coming from the N.W. make the ridge of Point Loma as a long
flat-topped island when about 25 miles distant. This appearance is occasioned
by the bay to the S.W., by tho low land to the N.E., and by the Puerto
Falso at the North. By night the cape is shown by the lighthouse presently

described.

A thick field of kelp lies along tho western shore of Point Loma, the inner
edge being about 1 mile off shore, and having a breadth of half a mile.
The outer edge marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes
from 20 to 10 fathoms. The field commences ofif the bar at the entrance to
False Bay, and stretches southward 22 miles South of Point Loma. Approach-
ing the South end of Loma, along the outer edge of the kelp, pass through
a partial break in it, and whon the point bears N.E. by E., distant H mile,
keep along the northern edge of tlio kelp in U fathoms, and about half a
mile from the point. As soon as the point is passed, a long, low beach of
shingle is opened, making out from the East side of the point, and forming
a natural break-water, formeriy called Punta de Guiranas, or Pmta de los
Guijarros, by the Spaniards, but now designated as Ballast Point.

Hound up gradually until Ballast Point is brought in range with the
easternmost house of La Playa (distant 1 mile from Ballast Point, and on the
same side of the bay), and be careful not to open more of the village, as the
shoal called Parros de Zuniga stretches South from tho East side of tho
entrance, parallel to the ridge of Point Loma, and distant only three-
quarters of a mile from it. Between Point Loma and this shoal runs tho
channel, which is less than half a mile wide within the 3-lathom8 lines.
With tho least swell the breakers show the position and extent of the shoal ;
and at low tides part of it is bare. It has been said that a rock, having

^ '' Xj ^f - 'i ^af - UiVi - r

ic country is

boundary of
lur of coarse,
ise Bay, and
after etietch-
42? feet, ter-
;and8 on this
i, wild sago,

rbour on the
lat of the Bay
ached, and a
quarters of a
itween it and
OSS from the

na as a long
? is occasioned
ly the Puerto
juse presently

)ma, the inner
r half a mile,
lonly changes
le entrance to
la. Approach-
pass through
stant 1^ mile,
about half a
low beach of
;, and forming
• Punta de los
nt.

inge with the
nt, and on the
village, as the
9t side of the
it only three-
hoal runs the
fathoms lines.
t of the shoal ;
rock, having

POINT LOMA LTOTlTTroUSE. 1,57

but 5 or (5 foot of water upcm it, lios in tlio cJiannel, its position being marked
by a patch of kelp, which is, however, torn away in Jioiivy weather; but the
examinations of the coast survey have developed no such danger.

During the summer keep as close to Point Loma as the draught of tlio
vessel will permit, and lay on the wind up to Ballast Point, off which 1
fathoms can be carried within a ship's length, witli 10 fathoms in mid-
channel, and a very strong current on the ebb and flood tides ; the former
sotting over the Zuniga shoal. After passing Ballast Point, steer for La
Playa, and anchor anywhere in from 4 to 10 fathoms, with good holding-
ground. Inside the point, and about 2,50 yards N. by W. from it, is a shoal
having only 1 2 feet water upon it, in a line from Ballast Point to the western-
most house at La Playa. It i.s a quarter of a mile long. The shoals on the
starboard liand, after entering, are plainly in sight, except at very high
water. The cliannel, however, is buoyed, and cannot be missed. From La
Playa to New San Diego, 4 miles distant, the channel curves to the right and
contracts, but about 6 fathoms water may be carried that far. A milo or
two beyond tho town the bay becomes shoal, and fill jd with flats, yet a very
narrow 3-fatlioms channel runs close along the eastern shore, nearly to the
head of the bay.

Coming from the South, run for the extreme end of Point Loma, until
Ballast Point and La Playa are in range, as before, and follow tho foregoing
directions.

When inside theharbour the vessels are perfectly safe, but during -very
heavy southerly weather, the kelp is said to drive in such masses as to make
vessels drag their anchors. We have never known such a case, and doubt
if a vessel, with good ground tackle and proper attention, would suffer from
this cause ; and the holding-ground is excellent. In heavy 8.E. weather tho
sea breaks over Ballast Point.

Point Loma Lighthouse.— This primary sea-coast light is less than half a
mile from the southern end, and situated upon the highest part of the point,
422 feet above high water. The building consists of a stone dwelling, u ith
a low tower of plastered brick rising from the centre. The light is 450 feet
above tho sea, and is afxed white light, which illuminates the entire horiTOn,
and in clear M'eather should be visible 28 to 30 miles off.

It is high water (corrected establishment at La Playa) at 9" SS-" ; springs
rise 5-0 feet, and neaps 2 feet 4 inches.

The eastern side of the entrance to San Diego Bay is low and flat, covered
with thick bushes and grass. It is called The Island, although a peninsula,
being very low and narrow towards the head of the bay. On Ballast Point,'
at the base of the Point Loma ridge, are visible tho ruins of the old Spanish
fortifications, &c.

From BaUast Point tho bay runs about North for a mile and a half,
thence curves gradually to the eastwrrd for 3 miles, io New San Diego]

msM

l';K

THE COAST OF PALTFOI?NTA

tlionco to tlio head of tlio bay south-cast 7 miles. Tlio avorngo widtli of the
bay, after passing La Playa, is a miln and a lialf, but at Now San Diego it
again expands to about a milo and a half, with low shores and extensive
marshes and flats.

The groat drawback in San Diego Bay is the want of fresh water, which
has to bo brought from tlio river. Fresh provisions are readily procured
here. Wood is scarce and not good.

A vein of coal (lignite) has been discovered near San Diego, and was re-
ported of excellent quality ; but no genuine coal is to bo found upon tlio
coast, and in IS.")! a report was made against this very deposit. When
fishery assumes a practical shape upon this coast, the liarbour of San Diego
will become a position of importance. Already several small companies aro
engaged in the whaling business. The waters in this vicinity abound witli
the " California greys," which are very troublesome to deal with, unless tlio
bomb-lance is used in killing them.*

False Bay. — At the North end of the ridge of Point Loma is an extensive
shoal bay called Puerto False, or False Bay. The bar at its entrance liea
N. by W. J W., distant 5 J miles from the southern extremity of Point
Xiomn ; and having but 3 ft. of water, it can bo crossed only in the smoothest
weather. The northern point of this bay is about 2 miloa in length, very
narrow, and covered with low sand dunes.

To the North and West of this the shore becomes compact and unbroken,
except by tho valleys f San Luis Eey and San Juan Capistrano. The
•waters off this stretch of the coast Vizcaino is called the bay of Santa
Catalina.

From tho southern extremity of Point Loma tho coast runs N. by W. for
22 miles, thence to Point Lausen (of Vancouver, 1793), forming the East
point of San Pedro Bay, N.W. by W. i W. nearly 60 miles.

San Luis Rey. — The mission of San Luis Eoy is the largest in California,
and the number of domesticated Indians formerly in its neighbourhood gavo
it tho appearance of a largo and thriving settlement. It was founded Juno
13th, 1798, stands in a rich valley from 1 to 2 miles wide, and is about 3
miles from the ocean, being separated therefrom by a range of hills. It is
nearly iu the centre of a section of country unequalled for salubrity and
productiveness, but the scarcity of rain is an insuperable drawback. The
mission is now a military post, but very few men are stationed there.

The anchorage is very much, restricted and unprotected, and now never
visited. Latitude 33° 17' N., long. 117° 29' W.

San Juan Capi strano. — Now a place of no importance, with an unpro-

• San Diego Bay was discovered by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese in tho
scr^nco of Spain, in September, 1642, called Port San Miguel. It received its present namo
from Sebastian Vizcaino, who surveyed it in November, 1602.

wiJtli of tlio
Ian Diego it
id extensive

'ator, which
ly procured

md was ro-
id upon tlio
jsit. When
' San Diogo
mpanies aro
ibonnd with
1, unless tlio

m extensive
sntranco lies
lity of Point
le smootliest
length, very

i unbroken,
itrano. The
ly of Santa

•. by W. for

Qg the East

1 California,
iirhood gavo
undod June
[ is about 3
hills. It is
ilubrity and
?^back. The
lere.
I now never

\i an unpro-

ugueso in the
I prcsQnt name

SAN PEDEO PAY. jr,,,

tooted anchorage, rocky bottom, and bad landing. This mission, like all
the others, ,s rapidly going to decay. Tho anchorage is in lat. 33^ 27' N
long. 117M3' W. fa K o ^1 ix.,

_ Tlxis mission is very pleasantly situated in a grovo of trees, wlioso luxu-
riant and diversified foliage, when contrasted with the adjacent sliores, give
It a most romantic appearance.

Tlio bay, or rather tho outer half-tido rock, on wJiich Sir E. Pelcher ob-
served, is in lat. 33^ 26' 55" N., long. 117 -12' W. It has a higli cliffy
head to the N.W., but terminates in low sandy beachns to tho southward
Tlio^anchorage is foul under 5 fat]iom,s, is unprotected, and the lancUng

SAN PEDRO BAY.-This bay is well protected in every direction, except
against tho winter gales from the S.E. round to tho S.W. During the
spring, summer, and autumn, it is an exceUent roadstead. From Point
Fermn, which is the S.E. portion of high land West of the bay, the line of
bluff runs exactly North and South for about 2 miles, being bold, and aver-
aging 60 feet in height.

Vessels coming from the westward through the Santa Barbara channel,
make San Pedro hill (1,600 feet in height), forming tho West sido of tho
bay, as an island projected against the mountains to the southward and
eastward. Approaching Point Vicente, which is the S.W. point of tho hill
vessels can keep it close aboard, there being from 50 to 80 fathoms within a
niile of the shore ; round Point Fermin within half a mile, in from 6 to 10
fathoms, and open tho small island called El Mora, run for that island and
when abreast of tho landing (readily recognised by the houses on tho bluff)
about 1 mile North of Point Fermin, anchor in 3 fathoms, hard bottom,
and half a mile off shore. Vessels must anchor a mile off to get in 5
fathoms.

Coming from the South with N.W. winds, beat in boldly until abreast of
the landing ; keep the lead going, and anchor anywhere in its vicinity Do
not approach the low shore, to the North and East of El More, closer than
1 mile, at which limit four fathoms water will bo found.

In winter anchor further out, and more to tho southward, in order to

win u ^ '^^ *^' '''^^' ^""'^ ^" ^"^ '""' '^'''^'^ "" ^"^'^ south-easter
The waters of the lagoon, inside of tho low sandy beach, and a mile or

• Tho mission is situated in a fruitful-looking sheltered vaUoy, said to abound in garden
luxuries, country winoa, and very protty dan..cl.. whence tho favourite appellation jLtas.
I suppose, herofore that they all assume this name. As many call hero apparently, to
m V ew, at nsk of anchor and cable. I was induced to ask the master oiLc...\\o
called upon mo what brought him here ? « It is only visited for stock, fruit, or vo. ta-
bles, was his dry reply.-(Sir Edward Belcher)

i't
■I

■•• ' " ' J b f J i ,

160

THE COAST OF C'ALTFOENIA.

more northward of El Moro, find thoir priucipal ontUit between that island
and the bluff pomt half a milo West of it. Tho entrance is very narrow
and crooked, and has two buoys, about 200 yards apart, to mark it. It is
stated that the bar at the entrance to the creek remains about tho same (na
it did in 18.52). At mean low water, only 2 feet of water can be carried over
it. A small tow-boat is now used for taking vessels to New San Pedro,
situated about 3 miles inside tho bar.

Wood and water are not readily obtained, and charges are high. The
beef raised hero is remarkably tough.*

The astronomical station of tho U.S. survey at tho bluff on the landing
is, lat. 33" 43' 19.6" N., long. 118° IG' 3.0" W., or in time, 7*' 53™ 4.2".

The town of Los Angeles or Pueblo de Ion Angeles (tho country town of tho
Angels) is 22 miles North by the road from San Pedro, and is the centre
of an extensive grazing, agricultural, and grape-growing country. Tho
quantity of grapes and fruit generally shipped to San Francisco during tho
proper season is already enormous, and it promises to be an important wine-
growing country. Eegular communication is maintained with San Francisco
and other ports by steamers and sailing vessels. In summer the Santa
Anna is said to frequently dry up beforo reaching the lagoon.

From Port Vicente the coast trends N. by W. J W. for 1 7 miles ; thence
W. by S. to Point Dume in lat. 34° C N., and long. 118° 41' W. ; thence
to Point Mugu W. i N. for 17 miles. The last point lies N.E. by E. \ E.,
distant 14 miles from the eastern end of Anacapa. This long curve in the
coast is known as the Bahia Ona.

Point Dome rises into a dome-like form 2 or 3 feet high. The land im-
mediately behind it falls away, so that in making it from the West, it rises
into view as an island close under tho high mountains. Eastward of Dume
the mountains spring directly from the water, f

• Sir George Simpson, who visited it in his overland journey round the world in 1841-2,
says,—" San Pedro is an open hay, which has no better alaim to the character of a harbour
than almost any other point on tho coast, being exposed to both the prevailing windp, and
being destitute of everything in the shape of a house, or jven of a shed. Its only recom-
mendation is, that it afl'ords access to the Pueblo of Nuestra Senora, about 18 miles distant,
which contains a population of 1,500 souls, and is tho noted abode of tho lowest drunkards
and gamblers of tho country. This den of thieves is situated, as one may expect from its
being almost twice as populous as tho two other pueblos taken together, in ono of tho
loveliest and most fertile districts of California ; and being, therefore, one of the best marts
in tho province for hides and tallow, it induces vessels to brave all the inconveniences and
dangers of the open and exposed Bay of San Pedro. — (Sir Edward Belcher

t At the bottom of the bay, between Point Dume and Point Vicente is a bitumen
spring. In reference to this, when Vancouver anchored in a small bay 60 miles to tho
north-westward, he says: — "Tho surface of tho sea, which was perfectly smooth and
tranquil, was covered with a thick slimy substance, which, when separated or distributed
by any little agitation, became very luminous, whilst the light breeze that came principally

)en that island
s very narrow
nark it. It is
it tho same (ns
be carried oyer
3w San Pedro,

ire high. The

in the landing
53™ 4.2-.
•y town of tho
I is the centre
country. Tho
SCO during tho
uportant wine-
San Francisco
mer the Santti

miles ; thence
11' W.; thence
E. by E. i E.,
g curve in the

The land im-

West, it rises

ward of Dume

5 world in 1841-2,
acter of a harbour
'ailing windp, and
Its only recom-
t 18 miles distant,
lowest drunkards
ly expect from its
er, in ono of tho
I of the best marts
iconveuiences and
ar

ente is a bitumen
y 60 miles to tho
lictly smooth and
ited or distributed
t came principally

BUENAVENTURA. m

From Toint Mugu to San Bunnnvontura, distant 17 miles, tho coast has a
general trend N.W. by W. ; but about midway it curves south-westward of
tins course 2} miles towards Anacapa, thus contracting tho eastern entrance
to tho Santa Barbara cliannel. Two miles West of Point Mugu is Loffum
Point, closo under which is very deep water, the lO-fathom lino running
witlun 2.50 yards of tho shore. Between Mugu and Buenaventura the coast
18 low, flat, and sandy, being the opening of tlio valley of Santu Clara,
through which flows the Santa Clara river. This stream is nearly dry
durmg tho summer, and terminates in lagoons and marshes.

The eastern entrance to the Santa Barbara channel lies between the
eastern end of Anacapa Island and Point lluonemo, which is about halfway
between Mugu and Buenaventura. From Anacapa. Point Huenemo bears
N.E. by N. i N., distant 9J miles. Directly off this point is found a re-
markable example of a submarine valley, commencing with a depth of 10
fathoms, 400 yards from the beach, increasmg to 50 fathoms in five-eighths
of a mile, and to 113 in less than 2 miles. Its general direction is South.
with a width of a mile, and bounded on either side by depths of 12 and 15
fathoms. The best landing is directly on the point. Landing in the bight
to the eastward and leeward is impracticable. Vancouver says this was
caUed Point Conversion on old Spanish maps ; ho placed it in lat. 34^ 9'. and
retained the name.

There is excellent holding ground oS Buenaventura in 10 fathoms but
the landing is not good ; the 3-fathom line lies about a quarter of a mile off
shore.

Buenaventura.-Tho mismn of Buenaventura, situated at the foot of the
dividmg ridge of the vaUeys of San Bueoavontura and Santa Clara, about
half a -iile from the shore, was founded March 31, 1782. Lat. 34° 15' N
long. 119° 15' W. Fifteen miles westward of Buenaventura, on the coast
there is a rich deposit of sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded
sixty per cent. Around the locality are found ashes and scoria. Th. ground
18 hot, and the gas emitted is almost suffocating.

SANTA BARBAEA.-From San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara the

from tho shore brought with it a very strong smell of burning tar, or of some such resinous
sub..anco. The next morning the sea had the appeai^ance of dissolved tar floating upon its
surface, which covered the ocean in all directions within tho limits of our view and indi
cated that m thi.s neighbourhood it was not subject to much agitation." This singular (act
which might bo turned to profitable account, has also been noticed by others--" Off this
part of the coast (near Santa Barbara) to the westward, Capt. Sir Edward helcher sav^
we expsnenced a very extraordinary sensation, as if the ship was on fire, and after veVv
close investigation attributed it to a scent from tho shore, it being much more sensihlo on
deck than below, aud the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise
from naptha on the surface.-Voyago of tho Sulphur, vol. i. p. 320. This was before petro-
leum was thought of It is mentioned again presently.

Mfth Pacific.

iGi

THE COAST OF CALTFoT^NTA.

distance is 215 milos, and tlio boaring nearly W. by N. Santa Barbara ifl
nn open roadstead for all except northerly winds, which are unfrerjuent. On
the West of the lonp low sandy beach is a bo'd bind' culled roi)d Filijie.
Tho hill rising behind it is called La Vigia.

The landing is on tho beach about half a mile East of I'oint Fib'^ie ; the
shore is very low and flat as far as tho town, throe-quarters of a mile distant,
but gradually rises to the mission, which is a prominent object about 2 miles
inland.

Vessels coming from the westward first sight T^a Vigia, and, upon ap-
proacliing tho anchorage, keep outside tho line of kelp (hero nearly half a
mile wide), gradually round tho point upon which is situated the lighthouse,
2 miles south-wosterly of the landing, keep along tho kelp imtil abreast of
tho town, and anchor in 7 fathoms; or pass through tho kelp, and anchor
in tho inside in ;JJ fathoms hard bottom. In anchoring far enough off to
get 9 or 10 fathoms, tho bottom will be found sticky.

No dangers have been discovered in tho kelp off this beach. With tho
least swell, the surf on the beach is a bad one, not falling square on, but
cutting it at a sharp angle. In winter, vessels must anchor outside of tho
kelp, as the gales detach and drive it shoreward in such vast quantities,
that, coming across a vessel's hawse, it helps to bring homo her ancliors.

The Lighthouse at Santa Barbara consists of a plastered dwelling, with
a low grey towor rising through the roof. It shows & fixed white light. It
is situated at an elevation of 1 80 ft. above the sea, 2 miles south-wostwariUy
from the landing on the beach, lat. 34^ 23' 35" N., long. 119'' 42' 5" W. Tho
light, as seen from the sea, will be projected against the hill rising behind
it. It can be seen at a distance of 1 9 to 20 miles.

Santa Barbara is a town of considerable sizo, lying in the middle of an
agricultural tract, running East and West, at the southern base of the Sierra
Concopcion, but of limited breadth. The trade with San Francisco is not
extensive ; but this being one of the greatest stock-raising districts on the
coast, vast droves of cattle pass through and are sent to San Francisco, and
the mining districts.*

The mission, founded December 4th, 1786, is one of the largest and best
establishments of tho kind in California, and in the gardens attached to it
the grape and olivo were cultivated with success.

Sulphur, in large beds and of superior quality, exists along the seaboard,
and manifests itself in all the warm springs. Wood and provisions in abun-

* A large hifmnon pit, al)out 8 miles West of 8anta Barbara, empties directly into tho
ocean, and the bitumon floating on the water works against the summer or north-west
winds, even beyond Point Concepcion. Very fre(iucntly, in calm weather, a groat extent
of the snrfatp of the channel becomes iridescent from tho thin film of bitumen si)read over
it. The rocks along the shore, even to tho westward of i'oint COncepcion, are covered
with it.

inta Barbara ifl
infrequont. On
)d Point Filipe.

)int Filijio ; tlui
r a milo distant,
•t about 2 miles

and, upon ap-
D nearly half a
the lighthouHO,
intil abroast of
Ip, and anchor
' enough off to

ich. With tho
square on, but
outside of tho
'nst quantities,
er ancliors.
dwelling, witli
white light. It
ith-wostwariUy
42' 5' W. The
rising behind

3 middle of an
je of the Sierra
rancisco is not
istricts on the
Francisco, and

rgest and best
attached to it

; the seaboard,
isions in abun-

directly into tho
ler or north-west
ir, a groat oxtent.
imen si)rcad over
:ion, aro covered

rOINT rONCEPCTON. ,0,1

dance can be easily obtained here. Water is plentiful, but not .o ro.ulily
procured. •'

A very short distance back from tho coast-lino is a rnngo of rup<rod hills
over 2,000 feet high, forming part of tho Swrra Concepcion (sometin^os M
tho bicrra San Inez), whose sides aro sparsely covered with tinibor Tho
coast trail to Han Francisco passes along tho shore for a distance of ir, or 20
miles to the Gaviota Pass; thenco inland to the Santa Inez valley, which
runs nearly parallel with tho coast.

Tho coast-lino from Santa Barbara light to Point Concepcion light runs
W. by 8., distan,.e 37 miles. The rugged hills w,^stwa^■d of tho Oaviota
Pass come close to the shore, forcing the traveller to leave tho beach for
their sea slope, the trail passing over stoop ridges and down valleys

POINT CONCEPCION.-This characteristic and remarkable headland
about 220 feet in height, lies at the western entrance to tho Santa Barbara
channel. Once seen, it will never be forgotten. When made from tlm
northward, or from the eastward, it rises as an island, but upon approach is
found to be a high promontory, stretching boldly into tho ocean, and t.-rn.!-
nating abruptly. Tho land behind it sinks comparatively low, and at first
gradually, but soon rapidly rises to tho mountains, which attain an elevation
of 2,500 feet. Between three and four hundred yards South of the face of
the cape is a large rock nearly awash, upon which some of the California
steamers have struck in very foggy weather.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Point Concepcion stands on the extremity of the
cape, and upon the highest part, which is 220 feet above the sea. Seen
from the southward, it will be projected against tho Sierra de la Concepcion
and appear about one-third of their height from the water. It is a primary
sta-coast light, consisting of an illuminating apparatus of the first-order
lens, and exhibits a revolving white light, showing a flash every half minute,
throughout the entire sea horizon. It is elevated about 250 feet above the
sea, and should be visible at from 22 to 27 miles off. Its latitude is 34^ 26'
47" N., long. 120° 27' 0" W., or in time 8'- 1"" 48.0-.

kfog hell, weighing 3,136 pounds, is placed on the edge of the bluff, sea-
ward of the lighthouse, which is sounded during foggy or other thick
weather, night and day, every \^ seconds.

Next to the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, Point Concepcion is
the most prominent and interesting feature between San Francisco and tlio
peninsula of Lower California. It has very justly and appropriately been
termed the " Cape Horn" and the " Hatteras " of the Pacific, on account
of the heavy north-westers that are hero met with on coming through the
channel, with a great change of climate and meteorological conditions; tho
transition being remarkably sudden and well defined.

During some summer seasons the fog is almost interminable, but more
particularly among the islands. For the space of six weeks, with clear days

H 2

'it

li'i
• ir
IS

ir.j

THE COAST OF OATJFOIJNIA.

nnd nights at tlio cape, the islands have been invisible ; rising, however, to
nn olevntion of 1,000 or 1,600 feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of
the islands over the soa of fog which onvolopes them.

When the fogs prevail, they gonorally roll in from seaward at sunrot, and
clear away about ten o'clock next morning.*

EL COXO.— Two miles East of Point Concepcion is the ancLorago of El
Coxo, off the entrance to the valley of that name. Tliis anchorage is a
better one than that of Santa Barbara, and tlie kolp is not so compact.
After passing the point from the westward, at a distance of about three-
quarters of a mile, when the valley will open with a sand-boach off it, anchor
outside or inside the kelp, according to the choice of depth, 5 fathoms being
obtained within a quarter of a mile of the shore, with hard, sandy bottom.
Ton fathoms water will be found half a mile from the shore.

There is a large rancho at El Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts
for grazing. The boof has a finer flavour and more delicacy than any we
have met with on the coast. The water is disagreeable to the taste. The
primary astronomical station of the coast survey was on the top of the
bluff, and between 250 and 300 yards W. i S. from the mouth of the creek.
Its geographical position is lat. 34° 26' 56.5" N., long. 120° 25' 39" W., or in
time, 6'' 1"" 42.6".

ISLANDS OF THE SANTA BARBABA CHANNEL.

The name of El Canal de Santa Barbara was given by Vizcaino, in De-
cember, 1602, to the narrowest part of the channel lying East and West,
and about 24 leagues in length. Until the U.S. coast survey first examined
in detail the islands lying off the main between San Diego and Point Con-
cepcion, nothing accurate was known of their number, peculiarities, extent,
or position.

It may not bo here amiss to call attention to the abundance of mackerel
found in the channel. We have seen the water fairly alive with them, and
have caught them by hundreds. Crayfish of a very large size are found in
great numbers along the shores. The rainy season commences in the early
part of November, and continues until the middle of March. The quantity
of rain that falls does not average over 15 inches, but some seasons are
marked by excessive drought. During the winter 8.E. gales prevail, and
sometimes during the summer months southerly weather will bring up
heavy rain.

CORTES SHOAL.

Commencing at the southward, the first object that claims our attention
is the dangerous bank and rock called the Cortes Shoal, bearing S.W. i W.

• Point Concepcion was discovorod by Cabrillo in 1642, and called Cape Galera. It was
afterwards named Jt'unta de la Liiupia Concepcion.

'45i^&M<i y<a:iJ.JM'W l it'!J.MU < l? « jftw(gffiSliMatJ.'^ ' fe»;Vi ' ,JjasUilvij- -^

^ -m^sm-uri'H^!'.'^

■ WM l fcJJLmkmMHWll •l ' iUJW > ,. ?l llfl t >-'

ng, however, to
tho suinniits of

i at sunrot, and

incLorago of El
aiichornge is a
lot 8o compact,
of about threo-
eli off it, anchor
j fatlioms being
, sandy bottom.

rery best tracts
y than any wo
the taste. The
the top of the
h of the creek.
' 39" W., or in

r£L.

izcaino, in De-
last and West,
first examined
md Point Con-
arities, extent,

ce of mackerel
:ith them, and
9 are found in
es in the early
The quantity
ne seasons are
38 prevail, and
will bring up

s our attention
igS.W. iW.

Giilera. It was

roirnis shoai,. ,,.,-

IVom the S.E. ond of the island „f «an Olon.-nt.-, an,l .Il.sfa... -ir, nul..« Tl,o
l^xtent ol this bank has be.m s.,und...l out ear.,iully, and l.un.l „uu h K-vafor
than ho early examinations led us to suppose. \Vi,hi„ tho limits of tlu,
50-fathom curve tho general tr.,nd is parallel with tl.e islands of San.a
Catalma, 8an Clen.ente, and Hun Nicolas, and it strutch.-s about 17 miles
from l«t. 32" 24' N., long. .18^ .O.i' W., to lat. .2^ .2' N.. Ion,. U,,- ,7V
W but curves slightly to the S.W. It has an average and noariv uniform
widthof JJmdes. The nature of the botton. is hard, composed uf whito
Band, broken shells, and fine coral at tho S.E. portion, and sand with I.rok.n
shells at the N.W. The shoalest and most dan^orous part is that known ns
the m,hop Ruck, lying 5 miles from the S.E. tail of tho bank, and having
but 2i fathoms of water upon it. Around this danger the depth increases
gradually, and m an extent of 2i miles in the gonerai dir.-ction of tho bank
reaches but 15 fathoms. The geographical position of those ro.ks is lat ;i2^
25r N. long. 119" 5' W. From tho N.W. ond of tho island of San Nicolas
the rocks bear S.E. i S., distant 57 miles; and from the S.E. end of San
Clemente they bear S.W. i S., distant 4.) miles. The next shoal spot is one
of 10 fathoms, about tho middle of the bank, and of limited cxtont, boin-
only half a mile square within the 15 fathom curve. IVom tho N. w' on.l .d"
San Nicolas the spot last mentioned bears S.E. by S. distant 54 miles ■ and
from the S.E. end of S„n Clemente it bears S.W. J W., distant 50 miles
From tho Bishop Rock it bears W. i N., distant 5 miles.

To the north-westward of this latter shoal spot th, depth is nearly unilbrm
at 49 fathoms for 7* miles, and between it and the Bishop Rock tho depth
IS uniform at about 43 fathoms.

Upon this bank the current is variable, frequently setting against the
strong N.W. winds with a velocity of nearly 2 miles pur hour, and producin.-
at aU times a heavy swell, and oven in moderate weather breaking hoaviiy
upon the rocks. In passing over the bank at night wo have been sonsibfe
of our proximity to it by the increased swell. In the detailed examination
of 1856 ,t was found that the general set of the current was to tho southward
and eastward, and the greatest velocity a mile and a half per hour ; but no
statement is made concerning the prevailing wind.

It lies in the direct route now followed by the Panama and San I'rancis. o
steam-ships, and was discovered by Capt. Cropper, of the steam-ship Corte»,
m March, 1853. His position was determined by bearings upon Saii
Nicolas and San Clemente, and was very close, being witliin a milo of the
latest and best assigned place. He says that the water around it was in
violent commotion, and thrown up suddenly in columns at regular intervals
of four or five minutes. At first he thought he saw breakers, and occa-
sionally the water broke as on a reef, but he became confident that tho dis-
turbance was owing to submarine volcanic agency. The specimens of the
bottom negative this idea. He found his depth of water reduced from 42

'■^VEnR>w;tsic«ffi'WKts-!?'?r!3s»st-a-i-A».- ->--~."v

ini; TIIK COAST oF (ULIFOIJNIA

fiithoms to 0, M-hirh coiivinros iih tliiit lio whh oU tlio mIioiiI Mpot, about tlio
middio of tlio liiiiik, and huw tlio water hroiikiiij; uium tho UImIioI) Kock, tho
Hanio ainjoaraiico that ho witnusHod, luiviiig boon hoou many tiinoH siuco by
by otliers, and tlio nature of tho rocky bottom and dopth of wator supiiort-
ing tho UHsiunption.

ISLAND OF SAN CLEMENTE.

Tliis, like all tho iMhindB of tho Santa Barbara (.'hanuol in high and bold,
the Honthorn ond being tho higher, and gradually falling to the northward.
Tho giincral Irond of tho island is N.W. by W., its length 2'2 miles, with an
avprago breadth of 2 miles, and 50 miles in circuit. T!io H.\V. point of tho
island bears W. i 8. from Point Loma, distant GO miles. At tho N.W. end
is a small indentation of tho shoro-lino, forming an anchorago, having u
width of throo-(iuarters of a mile, by half a milo in depth, with soundings
decreasing from 1 2 fathoms, on tho lino of a largo rocky islet at the side to
a point E. by S., to 4 and 6 fathoms closo in shore. Kolp will bo found in
10 fathoms, but the bottom is tolerably regular and hard. It is anything
but a pleasant or safe anchorage in bad N.W. weather, ainl oven in heavy
southerly weather tho swell must roll in disagreeably.

Under the S.E. ond of the island anchorage may be . 1 in the deepest
part of the indentation, but the bottom is rocky and irregular. The S.E.
point is a vast sandstone pyramid ; and when it is brought to boar North,
oud tho shore three-quarters of a mile distant, the anchorage w ill be W. by
N. i N., IJ milo insido the kelp, in 10 to lo fathoms, and ono-third of a milo
from the narrow sand-beach at the foot of tho cliffs. Outside of the kolp
the depth ranges from 10 to 30 fathoms.

This anchorage will afford protection in heavy N.W. weather. The
soundings around the island sliow a depth of from 36 to 130 fathoms close
in shore, except otf tho N.W. point, from which a reef makes out about a
mile. Neither wood nor wator can bo had here. The whole island appears
unfit for raising stock, on account of the want of water. Very few trees uro
found, and the aspect is sterile. This island was discovered by Cabrillo in
1542, and called by him San Salvador, after one of his two vessola. Tho
present name was given by Vizcaino in 1602.

ISLAND OF SANTA CATALINA.
This island rises to a height of about 3,000 feet, and is remarkable for
the great transverse break or depression, 5 miles from the northern end,
running partly through it, and forming an anchorage or cove on each side.
The land connecting those is very low, say not over 30 feet ; but the hills
rise up on each side two or three thousand feet, and when sighted from the
North or South tlu' whole appears like two very high islands. The general
trend of the island is W. by N. | N. ; its length 17 J miles, with an average

■ ». ' ■' ■ iWiWlft(l..-lHb't .

(it, about tho
oil Kock, tho
iinoH Hiuco by
ator Huniiort-

igh and bold,
liG northward.
niloH, with on
'. point of tho
;ho N.W. end
igo, having u
ith BOundingB
at tlie side to
11 bu found in
It is anything
oven in heavy

in the deepest
ar. The S.E.
boar North,
will be W. by
third of a milo
le of the kelp

(veather. Tho
fathoms closu
IS out about a
island appears
f few trees iiro
by Cabrillo in
vessels. The

•omarkable for
northern end,
3 on each side.
; but the hills
hted from the
The general
ith an average

INLAND OF SANTA (WTAI-TNA.

167

'.roadth of I miles to tho 8.„ifhorn part, and 2 miles to tlio norlhorn, while
tho shoro-liiio amounts to about \2 mjlos.

The drprassiou in tho island boars IS.H.W. from I\,i, ,■ Vwnmx, and is
distant IH.J miles.

Tho liarbour or cove iu tho southern side, 5 miles from tho nortliorn ond,
is (mly about ono-tliird of a mile in width, but its approaches aro bold, and
HO far as known, froo from hiddim dangers; to find it, run along tho S.W.
side of tho island, ond make tho doprossiou ; tlion stand in for tho oimiiing.
keeping a little loft of mid-channol, until a tiiird of a mile insido of tho
Jioads. From thonco koop in mid-channol, until abreast of tho long, low
point on tho right, and anchor in 5 fathoms, soft bottom. Tlioro is a dnptli
of 3 fathoms insido of tho low point, witli hard bottom, but not room
enough for a vessel to swing. If the wind is blowing from tho N.W.,
vessels will loso it at tho hoads, and perhaps require to bo towed in.

The anchorage on the North side of tho depression is also small, with a
reef in tho coiitro, and two large outlying ro(;ks. A steamer could run in on
the West side of tho rocks, and anchor olf tho low beach in 10 lUthoms,
when tho roof M^ould lie N. by E. from her, distant an eighth of a mile.
Hmall craft will hero lind protection from tho prevailing winds, but e.xpu-
rienco dillioulty in gutting out, as there is »hvays a swell sotting in, and tho
wind blows in flaws and ed<lio.M on account of tho high hills. ]iotwo(m the
tu .. points forming the anchorage the distance is half u mile, and tho doplh
one-third.

The soundings around the island shovT bold water from 19 to 7.-5 fathoms,
close in shore, with no outlying rocks except olf tho North cove. The shoros
are rocky, and on the southern side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern
shore there are several indentations, where boats may land at almost any
season. Deep and precipitous gulches are ftjrmod by the ridgo.s of roclc
running diagonally across tho island from N.E. to 8.W., and occasionally a
small valley varies tho scene. Four or fivo settlors cultivate those spots, but
their incousiderablo extent precludes tho realising of anything bcyoml a
sustenance. About midway between the N.W. extremity of tho island and
the gi-eat break there is a spring of good water, and at tho S.E. point good
water has been obtained by sinking wells to a depth of 50 feet or more, but
in the intermodiu.e places water found at the same depth is brackish.

This island was discovered by CabriUo in 1.542, and culled by him Ui
Victoria, after one of his two vessels. It received its present uamo from
Vizcaino in December, 1602, when it was thickly inhabited by a pooplo
reported to be very ingenious, poi-ticularly in pilfering and concealing, .some
oxamploG of which accomplishment they gave tho Spaniards. radr(3 d(j la
Ascension, who accompanied tnis oxpedluon, gives very particular descrip-
tions of a kind of temple to tho sun, with images and idols found ne;ir the
two coves.

'yig^SrWF7!iSlVas!mr^

iT"

16S

THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

ISLAND OF SANTA BARBARA.

Tliis i.s one of the only two small islands of the Santa Barbara proup. It
lies on tlie lino between the North end of San Clomente and the East end of
Santa Cruz, and almost exactly half way between them. From tho North
end of Santa Catalina it bears W. by S. distant 23 miles. Tho e:. tent of the
island would not exceed 2 miles cf shore lino ; its elevation at tho highest
part is about 500 foot, and the top has an area of about 30 acres, covered
with soil, but no water is found, and not a vestige of wood. The shores are
rocky and abrupt, presenting on the N.E. and South sides perpendicular
cliffs, exposed to the full force of the ocean swell. Landing is at all times
difficult and dangerous, the water around it is deep, and there are no out-
lying rocks. It is said to be much more enveloped in fogs than the
neighbouring islands. Its approximate position is lat. 33° 30' N., long.
119° 2' W.

ISLAND OF SAN NICOLAS.

Of tho Channel Islands this is the most distant from the coast, as well as
the driest and most sterile. It is about 600 feet high, abrupt, and, like San
Clemente, comparatively flat-topped, but falling to the southern end. The
Bides are bold and precipitous, and composed of coarse sandstone.

Its general direction is W.N.W. ; its length is 8 miles, with an average
and nearly uniform width of 3i miles, whilst the extent of shore-line is
about 22 miles. The North point of the island bears S.E. by E. from Point
Fermin, distant 67 miles; the Une passing 1 mile South of the island of

Santa Barbara.

At, the North end of San Nicolas heavy breakers mako out 2h miles, and
the soundings towards the Begg Eock show irregular and rocky bottom.
Breakers also extend from the southern point, to the distance of a mile and
three-quarters according to Kellet. This is doubtless the case in heavy
weather. The soundings around the island show depths varying from 10 to
48 fathoms. Oflf the S.E. point, which is low and sandy, vessels may an-
chor in 10 fathoms, hard bottom, with a current running steadily to the
southward, wliich makes the landing bad, as the surf cuts the beach at an
acute angle. The sandy point just referred to is in lat. 33° 14' 12.9" N.,
long. 119^ 13i' W., or in time 7" 57"> 40'. This island was not seen by Van-
couver in 1793. o , , ■ f

The John Begg Rock is situated on the prolongation of the longer axis ot
the island of San Nicolas, bearing N.AV. by W. i W. from its nearest (N.W.)
point, and distant 7 miles. The rock is about 40 feet high, bold, and well
definei, and can be easily seen at a distance of 10 miles. The soundings
between it and tho island indicate the existence of a submarine lodge con-

( N^nmiy a i i; < L * ]j j » n i ■ t

r I I '■ II iii'iMi

ISLANDS OF ANACAPA AND SANTA CEUZ.

169

rbara {^jroup. It
i tho East end of
From tlio North
riio e: tent of tho
n at tho highest
50 acres, covered
The shores are
les perpendicular
ig is at all times
there are no out-
in fogs than the
a3° 30' N., long.

e coast, as well as
upt, and, like San
luthern end. The
dstone.

1, with an average
at of shore-line is
, by E. from Point
h of the island of

, out 1\ miles, and
and rocky bottom,
ance of a mile and
the case in heavy
varying from 10 to
yr, vessels may an-
ing steadily to the
its the beach at an
it. 33° 14' 12.9" N.,
IS not seen by Van-

if the longer axis of
I its nearest (N.W.)
gh, bold, and well
)s. The soundings
jmarine lodge con-

necting them. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 33'^ 2*2^' N.,
long. 119" 13i' \V.

It was named after tho ship John Bcf/g, which struck upon a reef near it,
SeptoL.ber 20th, 1824, and was ) .early lost. The foul bottom is covered
with kelp.

ISLAND OF ANACAPA.

This is in fact a curiously formed group of 'hrec islands, extending in a
nearly E.N.E. direction, tlieir entire length being 5 miles. The West end
of Anacapa is a peak 930 feet in height, w'th a base of over 2 miles by
three-quarters of a mile. This is separated from the middle island by a gap
10 feet wide, through which boats can pass. The middle island is nearly 2
miles long by 500 yards wide, whilst the eastern island is little over a mile
long, by 500 yards wide. The gap separating the middle and eastern
islands is over 200 yards wide, but so oomnJotoly fillod with rocks as to bo
impassable for boats, which can, howevor, land on the North side of tho
island.

The West end of Anacapa is 4A miles from the eastern point of tho island
of Santa Cruz, and bears E. J N. from it. The depth of water between those
islands is 30 fathoms, with a very regular bottom, composed of grey sand,
coral, and shells. The eastern end of the island bears S.E. J E. from tho
Santa Barbara light, distant 28 miles, and from Point Hueneme or Conver-
sion, the nearest .point of the mainland S.W. by S. i S., distant 9^ miles.
Anacapa is in lat. 31° r N., and between longitudes 119° 19' and 119° 24'
West. Upon it the site for a lighthouse has been recommended.

The island is composed of coarse, dark grey sandstone, very rotten and
crumbling. The sideo are perpendicular, and from 250 to 300 feet high.
The main peak is marked on the North side by several deep gulches, with
almcst vertical sides running from the summit to tho bluff. The whole
formation is filled with innumerable cavities, giving it the appearance of au
enormous blackened honeycomb. At the eastern extremity is found a very
beautiful arch in one of the outlying rocks. The soil is loose and thin, pro-
ducing only a few dwarfed species of cactus, and a thick -leaved succulent
I)lant. Not a drop of water is to be found on the island.

Anacapa is a placo of great resort for the seal, sea-lion, and formerly of
the otter, but tlie latter have been nearly all killed off. It was on this
island that the steam-ship Winfield Scott ran ashore during a dense fog at
midnight, December 2nd, 1853, in calm weather.

ISLAND OF SANTA CRUZ.

This island is the largest of the channel group, and lies broad off the coast
oppoaito the town of Santa liarbura, at u distance of 20 miles. Its general

"'l iV ' ' ";W/ ''^g£y!>iOT.-y-!

.....J

,70 THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

direction is East and West, with a length of 21 miles, and an average width

TiZes while the extent of its shore-line is not less than 63 mdes On

L ir^h L de of the island and near the middle, the shore makes a

Lode^e^ deep curve, forming a roadstead called Prisoner's ^^''^^our^^,^^^

If a valley where plenty of wood and water can be obtamrd.

rZVe^a tLda\uar\eroL mile off the middle of the b^^^^^ in 15

fathoms sandy bottom; but there is no protection from the hea.y swell

seltrng;n with a north-wester; it must, however, afford exceUent refuge m

'• ThlsllgB around the island show deep water close to the shore, but
there are rocks showing quite plainly 1 mUe from the S.W pomt

The slandisbold, and about 1,700 feet in height. Its eastern part is
oxlem Wnlar barren, and destitute of water, and the surface o the
:Xastem portion is thickly strewn with large angular Fe-oJ « -o
as if broken with a hammer. Several species of cactus and somo of the
coarse grasses flourish. Santa Cruz Island is composed of coarse, dark grey
sandstone crumbUng and rotten, like that of Anacapa.

T^L TsWwas c'aUed Juan Eodrigue. by Fe.olo who commanded the
Jps of CabriUo after his death, which took place either m . Wer s Har-
bour or in Cuyler's Harbour (Island of San Miguel).

The gloup comprising Santa Cruz. Santa Eosa, and San Miguel, was dis-
covered and called San Lucas by CabriUo m 1542.

ISLAND OF SANTA ROSA.

This is the middle island of the group off the coast between Santa Bar-
bara and Point Concepcion. Its general shape is that of a paraUelogram
"h he direction of the longer axis almost exactly East and West and
I5 miles in length; and the shorter North and South, giving it a width of
10 miles. The extent of shore-line :3 about 42 miles. ^ ^, ^, ,

crn the NW. side of the isW. and midway between the North and
West poinis. a reef extends out for a distance of a mile and a quarter.
7here fs a g od passage between Santa Cruz and Santa Eosa^wih a width
!f 5 mL, and one between it and San Miguel of 4 mile. Both passages
are frequently used by the Cali. *rnia and Panama steam-ships.

The soundings around the island do not show as deep water as round th
others, onthe N.E. and N.W. sides from 15 to 20 fathoms are found,
^^from the shore, but in the S.E. and 8.W. sides the water is much
Zer. The outline of the idand is bold, but not so high as Santa Cruz.
ThTHllsareroUing, and covered with coarse grass and "- f^ j^^
hours exist round its shores, which are steep and broken. The South point
of the island is in lat. 33" 53' N., long. 120^ 4' W.*

on « 0.0 cuily SpanUh chart, the two ..tern of the Sunta Barbara Inlands arc caUed

ago width
uilos. On
9 makes a
our, at the
obtainpd.
each in 15
.ca\y swell
; refuge in

shore, but

ern part is
face of the
es of stono,
iomo of the
, dark grey

mandod the
oner's Hur-

el, was dis-

i Santa Bar-
irallologram,
d West, and
it a width of

e North and
ad a quarter,
with a width
!oth passages

as round the
are found, 2
rater is much
i Santa Cruz.
108. No har-
Q South point

Inlands arc called

( 171 )

ISLAND OF SAN MIGUEL.

This is the western of the Santa Barbara Channel Islands its longer axis
lying E. i N. and 7^ miles in length, with an average breadth of L>i miles.
The extent of shoro-liue is 21 miles. Its western extremity is bold and
narrow, gradually increasing in breadth until it attains 3^ miles. As seen
from the south-westward, this end of the island appears to be several hun-
dred feet in height, and composed of sand dunes, therein differing from all
the other islands. The eastern face is nearly straight for 2 miles; the
southern face is nearly straight along its whole length, with high abrupt
shores ; and from 30 to 37 fathoms water are found close inshore. On the
N.E. side of the island is the small bay called Cuykr's Harbour, off which
lies a rock or islet, more than a fourth of a mile long, and several hundred
feet high. From this islet to the deepest part of the harbour the distance
is U mile, and the course S.W. Close under the western side of the har-
bour is anchorage in 6 fathoir i, secure from every wind except the North,
which rarely blows here. The eastern part of the bay is full of rocks and
reefs, and ought to be avoided. The reef in the middle of the bay bears
S.W. from the West end of the islet, and is distant half a mile. It is tlie
same distance from the West point of the bay, near the anchorage, and

bears E. by S.

S.W. by S. J S. from the West end of the islet is a rock, and rocky bottom,
distant a third of a mile, and on the same lino another, half a mile distant.
The southern part of the islet is about half a mile from the East shore of the
bay. The bay shores are high, steep, and rolling, and covered with coarse
grass and bushes. There is no water here in summer, but during the
winter water drains down the gully at the beach in the middle and southern
part of the harbour.

Tho western point of the island bears 8. by E. i E., distant 25 miles from
Point Concepcion, and S.E. by S. i S., distant 35 miles from Point Ar-

guello.

Sheep and some stock have been placed upon San Migtiel, but the success
of the experiment has been doubtful, certainly unremunerative.

The S.W. part of Cuyler's Harbour is in lat. 34° 3' N., long. 120° 20'
27" W. It is high water here, on full and change (corrected establishment),
at IX'' 25'". Spring tides rise 5 feet 1 inch, neaps 2 feet 9 inches.

San Miguel was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and Cuyler's Harbour is
supposed by somo to be the bay in which he wintered. He died January
5th, 1543, having directed Bartolome Ferrelo, his pilot, to assume the com-
mand of the expedition. He called the island Juan Rodriguez. It is some-

San MiKuol and Santa Rosa (naming tho western first), and upon tho others Santa Barbara
and Miguel. The present names and order are those adopted by Vancouver in 1703.

t'«£^»^- .a-' ' *~ '^"

,72 ■ THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

times called San Bernardo. Cuyler's Harbour was named by the U.S. Coast

Survey in 1852.

Two rocks, showing themselves well above vater, lie N.W. by W. from
the western extremity of San Miguel, the larger being distant 6 miles. It
bears S. i E., distant 22 miles, from Point Concepclon, and 8.S.E., distant
30 miles from Point Arguello. Off the inno- and smaUer rock a reef extends
a short distance to the southwa'-d and westward. Deep water is found
around the rocks, and vessels may pass between them. The total extent of
Bhore-lino of the Santa Barbara Islands is about 232 miles.

The COAST, from Point Concepcion northward.— The first headland to
the northward of Point Concepcion is Point Arguello, distant 12 miles, and
bearing- N.W. by W. i W. The shore is bold and compact, curving slightly
to iho eastward between the two points, and the mountains immediately be-
hind are not less than 3,000 feet in height.

Point Arguello.— Two or three hundred yards off Point Arguello are
some detached rocks, upon which the steam-ship Yankee Blade struck and
was lost on the 1st of October, 1854, and 415 persons perished.

Eight miles North of Point Arguello a small stream empties into the
ocean. It is insignificant and unimportant. On former charts it is called
the Eio de San Balardo or the San Geraldo, the Bernardo or Santa Inez.
On the U.S. Coast Survey charts it is designated La Purmima, from the
mission La Purissima Concepcion, situated a few miles inland.

The first point northward of Point Arguello is Point Pmmima, off which
makes a reef about a fourth of a mUe to the S.S.W. This is known on the
coB&i Bs Point Pedermles, signifying Point of Flints, but now generally and
erroneously printed " Pedro Nales." Formerly it was called -Son Pedro No-
lasco. Near this point the steam-ship Mith was lost in 1849. Between
(Points Sal and Purissima a small stream called the Gwjamas opens.

Point Sal— From Point Arguello N. by W. | W., and distant 19 miles,
is Point Sal, which is marked by streaks of yellow sand, except at the ex-
treme point. The extremity is formed by high, round, black rocks, otF
which are several sunken rocks, extending half a mile to the southward and
westward. This stretch of the coast is very similar to that behind Concep-
cion and Arguello, but after passing Point Sal, the mountains fall back, and
the shore is formed of sand-hills. The general trend hence is North, until
the shore corimences sweeping westward to form the bay of San Luis Obispo,
and the shores become high and abrupt.

SAN LUIS OBISPO. — This bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the
southward, and even during heavy N.W. weather a bad swell rolls in, ren-
dering it an uncomfortable anchorage. The landing is fre<iuently very bad,
and often impracticable, but the best place is in the mouth of the creok,
keeping the rocks at its mouth on the starboard hand. Fresh water uiay bo

U.S. Coast

y W. from
i miles. It
E., distant
eef extends
ir is found
1 extent of

loadland to

niileis, and

ing slightly

jdiately be-

irguello are
struck and

ies into the

it is called

Santa Inez.

la, from the

a, off which
lown on the
snerally and
an Pedro No-
). Between
jns.

nt 19 milets,
it at the ex-
ck rocks, otf
uthward and
lind Concop-
all back, and
North, until
Luis Obispo,

posed to the
rolls in, reu-
tly very bad,
of the creok,
(rater luay bo

SAN LUIS OBISrO.

17;{

obtained at a small stream opening on the beach, half a mile West of the
creok. In the coarse sandstone bluff between these two places are found
gigantic fossil remains.

Off Point San Luis, which forms the S.W. part of the bay, are some rocks,
and in making the anchorage vessels should give this point a berth of half
a mile, passing in 6 or 8 fathoms. Run on a N. by E. course, and anchor
three-fourths of a mile from shore in 6 fathoms, sticky bottom ; 4 fathoms
can be got about a fourth of a mile from the beach. In winter anchor far
enough out to clear Point San Luis, if a south-easter should come up.
During southerly weather landing is frequently effected at the watering-
place when impracticable at the creek.

The distance of the rock off Point Sau Luis to the mouth of the creek
is IJ^ mile ; from the same rock to a white rock bearing N. 70" E. the dis-
tance is 2^ miles ; and a black rock lies halfway between the white rock and
the mouth of the creek. The bluff on the East side of the small fresh -water
stream West of the creek is in lat. 35° 10' 37" N., long. 120° 43' 31" W. It
is high water (corrected establishment) at X'' 8" ; springs rise 4 ft. 10 inches ;
neaps 2 feet 5 inches.

The town of San Luis Obispo, which takes its name from the mission of
that name, founded September Ist, 1772, is not on the bay, but is situated
about 10 miles in the interior, in the middle of an extensive and excellent
grazing country. Communication is maintained with San Francisco and
other ports by regular steamers and lines of sailing packets.

The bay was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him Todos
Santos.

To the northward of the bay of San Luis Obispo the Monte de Buchon
rises to a great height, which is readily distinguished in coming from the
northward or southward.

The U.S. Surveyors were informed by old otter hunters on this coast, that
there exists a sunken rock about 8 miles S.S.W. from Point San Luis, and
furthermore that they had found kelp upon in 4 fathoms. On the old
Spanish charts an island appears laid down in that direction, but distant
about 8 leagues. One of the Pacific mail steam-ships laid-to in a S.E.
gale, and thick fog off Point Concepeion, and, drifting to the northward,
came unexpectedly upon a sunken rock, upon which the sea was breaking
heavily. The commander supposed the vessel to be then off Point Sal, and
had so plotted the rock upon l^i: chart ; but upon being informed of the
alleged existence of a rock off San Luis Obispo, he was satisfied that he had
been near it, but unfortunately had no opportunity of determining his posi-
tion. This locality demands a thorough examination, as it is in the direct
track of the whole California trade from San Francisco.

From Point San Luis the coast trends in a straight line W.N.W. for a
Oiit 'ance of 8 miles, and close along the shore of this stretch are several

,';^iE3raBB«SS3S?3B?S

?SlS^®9Pi5^!S^i'S«?«P-»SB

t '

J74 THE (^OAST OF CALIFORNIA,

large rocks. Thenco the coast trends abruptly to the North, running to the
high conical rock called El Moro, distant 8 miles.-those two shores formmg
the seaward base of Mount Buchon. , ^ ,^ , „j *>,„,

From El Moro the shore-line graduaUy trends to the westward, thu.
forming a deep indentation or bay, called Zo« Estem on the old Spamsh
charts but now designated a. f .e Estero Bay. It was dascovored by Cabnllo
in 1542 and here he obtained wood and water. Behmd El Moro are soW
lagoons or streams, and the high land retreats for some distance, le'^vmg tho
shore low and sandy, while the North shore is rugged and guarded by
rocks The N.W. point of the bay is called Punta de los Esteros, and bears
N W i N from the West point of Mount Buchon, distant 13 miles.

From Point Los Esteros to the western point of the anchorage of San
Simeon the coast runs nearly straight N.W. by W. for a distance of 15 m.les^
The shores are not so bold as to the nouthward and northward, and the
mountains faU well back, leaving a fine rolling country of no great elevation,

and well suited to agriculture. , . , v., + oir^rrU

BAY of SAN SIMEON.— This is a small exposed roadstead, but aUouis
tolerably good anchorage during N.W. winds. Tho S.W. point of the bay
bears N W. by W. from Point Estoros, and is distant 15 miles. The ind«i-
tation of the shore-line forming the bay trends between N.N.W. to N. m
half a mile, and then sweeps away to the westward about H mUe gradually
taking a 8.E. direction. The land behind the bay i. comparatively low and
gently rolling, the high hills retiring weU inland. . ,>,„ q w

^ Vessels coming from the northward may run boldly round the S W.
point, within a few hundred yards of the shore, in 8 or 9 fatiioms, round iip
I North, and anchor anywhere oif the sand beach in 5 fathoms, hard
botl, and a Httle more than a quarter of a mile from shoi. The beach
is half a mUe long, stretching well out, and rendering the landing disagreea-
ble with any sweU ; but in such cases it is u. .al to land at the western par
t^e beach. Eastward of the sand beach the shore-hne is bluff and
guarded with rocks. Vessels from the southward must make short tacks
le inshore, or they wiU assuredly miss it. The only sure marks for it are
the Piedras Blancas, as wiU be hereafter shown. It was m this bay that
t sream-ship Pioneer put in, leaking badly. The bay affords not the
eUghtest refuge in southerly weather.

L making this harbour from tho northward, vessels must sight the
Piedras Blancas (White Eocks) 4 miles W. i N. of the S.W point of San
Leon They are two large white-topped rocks, and nothing else 1 ko
^It found on this part of the coast. The geographical position of tho
^ul and larger rock'is. lat. 35" 39' N.. long. V2l^ 15' West. This bay is
supposed by some to be tho " Bay of Sardines" of CabriUo. where he an-
chored and landed in 1542.
From Piedras Blancas the coast trends N.W. i W. for a distance of a7

BAY OF SAN SBIEON

175

nning to the
Dres forming

stward, thus
old Spanish
id by Cabrillf»
ro are sceral
J, leaving tho
I guarded by
OS, and bears
ailes.

orago of San
CO of 15 miles.
,'ard, and tho
reat elevation,

d, but affords
int of tho bay
1. The indcn-
J.W. to N. for
nile, gradually
tively low and

und the S.W.
oms, round iip
fathoms, hard

e. The beach
ling disagreea-
le western part
9 is bluff, and
ike short tacks
larks for it aro
a this bay that
affords not the

nust sight the
/■. point of San
jthing else like
position of tho
it. This bay is
), where ho an-

i distance of 67

miles, in an almost porfoctly straight line. At a distance of 18 miles from
these rocks tho above-mentioned bearing cuts a bold bluff and rounded
point called Punta Gorda, off which, and for 2 or 3 miles along the shoro
northward, there are many rocks. This point is tho Cape San Martin of
Cabrillo. As there is one point under Capo Mendocino, moro generally
known as Punta Gorda, it is recommended that this point retain tho namo
given to it by Cabrillo, especially as all his names have been east aside.

Continuing on tho same bearing, and at a distance of 49 miles from
Piedras Blancas, is Point Sur, sometimes called Lobos, making out nearly
half a mile. As seen from the North or South, at a distance of 1 1 miles, Point
Sur appears as a largo, high, round-topped island ; but upon approaching it
a low neck of land is seen, connecting it with tho main. It is in lat. 3b^ 19'
North, long. 121" 52' West.

The highest peak of the range bordering tho coast lies 6 miles square in
from Point Sur, and attains an elevation of 4,414 foot. Still continuing on
the same bearing, 57 miles from Piedras Blancas, and 7.i miles from Point
Sur, another slightly projecting point is passed, about a mile to the eastward
of the course. Thence the course trends more to the eastward, running
N.N.W. for 8 miles to Point Cypress, and passing Point Carmel, the South
point of Carmel Bay.

The mountains, which had fallen back behind Los Esteros, gradually ap-
proach the shore-line North of San Simeon, and about 10 miles North of
Piedras Blancas ; they came down abruptly to the coast, and run parallel
with it to Point Carmel, forming the boldest and most compact shore that
we have yet passed, and attaining a uniform elevation of nearly 4,000 feet.
These mountains were called by Cabrillo the Sierras Altos, but at present
the range is known as the Sierra de Santa Lucia. From their abrupt faces
wo have seen cascades falling from a height of 40 or 50 feet, directly into
the sea.*

* On the opi)osito or eastern slope of tlic ridge is tho valley uf Salinas, tlirough which
the liio Buenaventura flows. Tho hills aro rendered much more fertile by their exposure
to the fogs and mists of tho coast, which supply them plentifully with moisturo, and this is
seen running in many rills down the hill sides.

The valley of Salinas is 60 miles in length, and has an average width of 6 or 7 miles ;
the valley descends to the N.W., and at its lower end is contracted by tho hills through
which the river passes, a low and well-wooded bottom being formed on each side. The
■whole of it is well drained, and admirably adapted for stock farms. It may bo called an
open country covered with grass ; the tops of tho hills are covered with oaks, pines, and
cedars.

The river having passed through a narrow range of hills, the valley again opens and now
receives the name of La Solodad, which is 20 miles wide, and extends to tho Bay of Mon-
terey. The land on cither side risus into undulating hills, and from these into mountains.

, 7g THE rOAST OF C* hW( )1{N1 A

CARMEL BAY.-Betweon Point Carmel and Point Cypres., .-hioh aro

Francisco, but there is so little space that they are compelled o ^^ P " «^

present a flat umbrella-like appearance.

'The Mi.ion M Car.elo is situated but a short distance i^m t., shoro
the bay, and can bo seen from the water in certam d^roctKU.. / - J^"
Cypress to Point Pino, the general direction of the shore . ^. ! L.. and tho

i. TM. point i. to northern tennination of .l,o long an.l oWaled rang •
;l! 3 .1 Santa Luda, o,ton<Ung »uth.ara, and tomung the bo>„
rocky coast-line to San Luis Obispo.

55' W., or in time 8" 7- 40.0'.

BAY OF MONTEREY.

p„.. Pino, for.. t„„ -^■jf^^jz^jt::^:^.

Cruz (tonning tho w«torn shore of tl,o a""""-' j „,„

%Z rl';-! to L anchorage o« tho town otMontorey the oon™^

. . V ,, Th« vallBV of L^ Soledad is conBidered ver>- fertile, the plai-.s
oak, and the mountains with trees of higher growth.

HS, which aro
rmol. At tho
. protectod fur
■ grftnito, antl
•tation to San
o warp in and
h point of tho
le first woodod
ranches of the*
ng winds, and

n ti.e shores of
. From Point
',. * E., and tho

ring the pines,
liore, off which
fathoms nearly
athoms, and at
Hows tho shoro
of that line tho
lid always give
riably sets upon
elevated range,
jrming tho bold

upon the N.W.
10 building is of
alevated 91 feet,
1" N., long. I'il''

'unta do la Santa
, Cruz), the N.W.
)J miles, and the
iver, is 9| miles,
erey the course is

3r}- fertile, the plains
I grass and groves of

i?AY OF M()XTi:i;ky

177

E. by S. 1 S., niul the distiince ,1 niilcs. Tlio slioiv towanls lhi« town is
rugged, couipoHed of granite, and covi'rcd with a lieavy growtii of lir ; Imt.
to the eastward of tho town is a long sandy biMich, liaikcd i.y sand dunes ..f
slight elevation. For a distance of 10 miles along tiiis l.eacii tin- line ..f .i
fathoms lies at n distance of I.jO yards olf shor(!, tlio water dtiepeniiig rapidly
beyond tluit, and tiio bottom almost everywhere hard.

Vessels ccmiiug from the northward boimd to Monterey, follow the eoa-t
from Foint Ano Nuevo to Foint Santa Cruz, then run well into tlie bay, but
not too far, for fear of losing the wind, and to avoid the set of tint iu'avy
swell rolling towards the beach. Leaving Point Santa Cruz, and ke(*piiig
on aS.E. by F. course about IT) miles, will bring vessels into 2:, fathoms,
and nearly 2 miles from the beaeli ; thence a South course for « miles will
bring them to the anchorage in 10 fathoms, and half a mile from tho land-
ing. These precautions are necessary, because Point Finos, witli the whole
bay, is almost continually envi^loped in a dense fog. Very frequently tho
coasting steamers have to run for tho beach, and then be guided by tlio
route to the anchoiiige.

A direct course {nmi Point Ano Nuevo to the nnchorage is S.E. i E., nad
the distance 30} miles. From Point Finos to Point Alio Nuevo tho bearing
is N. 47° \V. and tho distance 31 miles.

By anchoring well in at tho western side of tho anchorage, vessels will
avoid much of tho swcdl that comes in with tho h(>avy N.W. winds, but
never sufiicicnt to make any berth there dangerous. In heavy southerly
weather Pinnt Finos breaks tho swell, but tho wind draws very strong over
the uiK'horage. Tho water shoals from 15 to 3 fathoms in a distaiu^o of 300
yards, and tho lead should bo used to avoid running in too far.

When the California mail steam-ships stopped at Monterey they fi-e-
quently ran outside of Foint I'inos, or in very dangerous proximity to it.
Tho end of the wharf abreast of the custom-house at Monterey is (approxi-
mate) hit. 30° 30' 17' N., long. 12P 52' 27' W.

The towm of Monterey presents a very pretty appearance as seen from tho
water. Immeiliately behind it tho country rises in plateaus, diversified with
hill and valley, and beautifully dotted by oak groves. It was tho capital of
California while under the rule of Mexico, and for some years after it b(!-
camo a state. The whale lishory * has been vigi)rously pursued at Monterey,
during tho season, which usually lasts nine months, from March to Noveni-

• La Perouse says, " I cannot express the number of whales with which we were sur-
rounded, nor yet their familiarity ; thoy blew every half minute .vithin half pistol shot of
our frigate, and occasioned a very strong hincll in tho air. We had not known of this
etfect from whales, but tho inhabit.ints told us that the water they spouted was impreg-
nated with this unpleasant odour, and that it oxtomled to a considerable distanoe."

Many whales were also seen by Sir George Simpson, in 1842, the 'jay being a lavounto

North Pacific. ^

. .;P;^5;^KS3^!gl5J®l^»»ES!SSa5S^S^^^

17„ TIIK COAST OF (^AT,IF(>1?NTA.

Imt. l{..-„lMr .niniuunicufion is k.-pt i.]' «itl. all piirt. ..f thf .oust l.y
M.iiin.Ts nn.l willing v.-hsoIs. Stufros ...mniununti- with Santa ( Vu/., and all
llic tnwiiH to San KniiU'iHco.

Kollowin- tlH-shfin. Irojii tlio t.wn <.f M.n.t.'voy, nortliwnnl, it proHontH a
,„Htor... Hand l.oa.li, runi.inj? n.-arly North, l.a.kod by low dreary Band
duu.'H, producing nparscly tho coarHOst grasHOH and hushoa, and entirely
doHtit.ito of frosh water. This wasl.. extends to tlie Salinas Rivor, of which
we reach the ^n-eat Lend at about OJ miles from Monterey, and only 100
yards from the beach. From Point Finos it bears N. lUr E., and is distant
84 mih-s. From this bond tho rivor follows tho lino of tho boaeh, just insido
of the low sand dunes, for a distance of 4^ miles, and there disembogues.
Fr..m Point I'inos it b.nirs N. IS'' E., and is distant 123 miles. This rivor
has been designated by a variety of names, as Buenaventura, Monterey, and
Salinas, but it is now generally known by tho latter. From its mouth,
which is oidy CO yards widt* at low wat(>r, to tho entrance to tho Rio del
Pajaro, or San Antonio, tho distance is 'ij miles, tho shore trending to tho
N.N.W. The entrance of that rivor bciirt N. 11" E., 14 miles from Point
Pinos. From hero the coast runs N.AV. nearly straight to Atos Creek, a
distance of 7 or 8 miles, and about 6 mihs E. by N. of Santa Cruz, with tho
shore rocky and abrupt.

North of tho Salinas Eiver commonce rich meadow and table lands, afford-
ing to the settler spots imsurpassed for productiveness, eynn in tho prolifio
state of California. A remarkable submarine valley, similar to that off
Point ITuoneme, has boon discovered, and to some extent traced out in this
bay. Tho head of tho valloy is live-eighths of a mile South of tho mouth of
tho Salinas l^iver, and the 20-fathoms lino is only a quarter of a mile off tho
beach, tho depth increasing to M) fathoms in tho next quarter of a mile. At
this distance from shore tho 20-fathoms lines are three-eighths of a mile
apart. The gonorul direction of the valloy for tho next 2 miles is S.W. i
^Y., where wo iind a depth of 117 fathoms, and the r,0-fathoms lines lio
about livo-eighths of a mile apart; tlienco tho valley runs about West,
reaching a depth of 170 fathoms in a mile, and 240 fathoms' in 3J miles
with 42''fathoms loss than a mile to tho North of this. Tho soundings aro
not numerous enough to trace its outlines iu deep water, but tho indications
are, that for 10 miles of its length it runs S. 60' W., with noibottom at 315
fathoms. Tho only available boat landing upon tho beach of tho bay shores
is at the head of this submarine valley. There are no indications on the

revolt of thiit aiiiuial ; tho shark, tho ootl, and tho sardino also ahound : the last is some-
tiinos tlirown in millions on to thu hcuch by westerly gales.

Tho whale has heen known to hurst amou- his human porsocutors with the report of a
cannon, and almost to suffocate them with the stench.

SANTA nWZ IlAlJHfil I.',

170

tlic inuHt liy
Cruz, and all

, it proHonts a
r droiiry sand
, iiiul ontiroly
ivor, of whicl)

and only 100
and is distant
icili, just insido

tlisnmboguoH.
18. This rivor
Montoroy, and
am its mouth,
to tho Rio del
rending to tho
les from Point
) Ato» Creek, a
Cruz, with tho

e lands, afford-
in tho prolific
lar to that off
cod out in this
)f tho mouth of
»f a milo off tho
• of a milo. At
hths of a milo
lilra is S.W. i
thorns lines lie
18 about West,
ns' in 3 J miles
I soundings are
tho indications
^bottom at 315
f the bay shores
licationa on the

: the last is Bome-
ith the report of ii

land of this poculiar formation, except that at its head tlio bay very -radually
reachen its (,'reatoat casting.

Tlu) extensive valley, called tlict Sn/iiuii I'laius, throii^rli whiili comes tlio
Salinas IJivor, extends inland from the eastern part of Monterey liay.
It has been before alludiMl to on page 175 {note).

SANTA CRUZ HARBOUR.— This harbour or anchorage is at tho N.W.
part of tho Day of Monteri'y, and is of very limited »\\t(^nt. It is protected
from all the winds from tho northward, but exposed to the full sweep of tho
southerly gales, and many coasters have been driven nslKu-o during tho
winter season. It is about three-quarters of a milo in depth northward, by
limileE. and W.

Vessels coming from tho north word, after leaving Point Auo Nuovo, follow
tho coast lino on a general course E.S.E. for about 18 miles. The shor.i for
this distance is abrupt, jagged, and moderately elevated, with a range of
high hills, or mountains, whoso summits in summer all alniOHt continually
enveloped in fog. ISkirting tho shore at a distance of half a mile, a d(>pth
of from to 10 fathoms can bo carried; and upon making Toint Santa
Cruz, tho lop of which is moderately level for some distance back, 1 futhonis
are obtained within a quarter of a mile of it ; round up and run along in 5
fathoms until abreast of tho beach, whore good uncliorago will bo found half
a milo from the shore. Vessels from tho South in sunmier koop well into
Monterey Bay, to escape the full force of tho north-westers and the heavy
head sea.

During the winter months anchor well out, so as to be able to dear thp
shore westward of Point Santa Cruz, in case a south-easter springs up.

Landing on the beach is generally disagreeable, as it extends out some
distance, but boats usually land at the ombarcadero, at tho foot of tho bluff,
in tlio N.W. part of tho harbour. The beach is over half a milo in length,
and between its eastern extremity and the bluff' point empties the San Lo-
renzo Eiver, a small stream running past the town and mission, which is
situated a milo inland.

The country about Santa Cruz is exceedingly productive, and now thickly
settled. A steamer runs regularly in the trade between this place and San
Francisco, and numerous coasters find abundant freight from here and tho
Pajaro country to San Francisco.

The high mountain, N. 25" E., 12^ miles from Santa Cruz, is named
Mount JSache, and is 3,791 feet high.

It is high water here at Itf' 18""; springs rise 5^ foot; neaps, 2 feut 10
inches.

From Point Santa Cruz to Point Aiio Nuevo the distance is 18 miles, and
the general direction W. by N. 2 N., at first curving to the south-westward
of that course, and then to the northward, until within three miles of the
rock of Point Ano Nuevo, when the shore curves well to westward (for the

N 2

- y^yy y, ?

r . ''' "". ? -"-r^T,'<^i^--^^! '? Wt ' > ?^- ^ ' ^- '' ^ '"

180 TIIK COAST OF CALIFORNIA.

last milo t.. tho S.W.\ forming un nn.liorft-o prutect.xl m.nunvhat ftg.iii.«t
tho l.ouvy hwoll from tho N. W.. aiul luiving a i^Wi ..f -. fathoms -.vithin Iohm
than half u mile from tho ahoro, and from 10 to 15 fathomH .it tho distanco

of a milo.

Point Ano Nuevo.-At a qimrtor of a milo from tho pomt l.os a black
jn^'-od i«lot, cuHistinK of a Hh.ping lodgo of rocks covered with a stratum of
yollow clay about 4 foot thidt, and this again covered with n mound of Hand
about ;50 foot liiKh. Upon this a Ui/hthouxe in to bo built. Tlio point itself
is composod of rolling hills of Hhiftintr Hand, varying from 20 to 100 foot m
h.'iKht, while behind them ris.^s tho Santa Cm/, ran^o of mountams. Tho
coast trail which followed tho beach from tho southward hero strikes up tho
hills behind tho sand dunes. Steamers coming upon tho coast from t\w
southward in thick weather, always endeavour to uiaUo tho land near Tomt
Ano Nuovo, and then follow tho coast to the Han Francisco bar.

From Point Ano Nuevo, tho coast runs N.W. 2 N. for about 10 miles to
the rocky point called tho Pautu d,- la liaha, but designated Foint Mira-
montes, on the coast survey rocounaissanco sheet, in 185;}. The high moun-
tain snuare, in from La Bolsa, bearing N. 5.r E., and distant VA miles,
named lUacIc MmmUiin, attains an elevation of 2,809 feet. Two miles North
of La IJolsa empties tho Piwador, a small stream running through a valley
of inconsiderable extent. For the foregoing 12 miles, tlie general formation
of the immediate seaboard is that of a table land of three terraces, tho
lowest gradually sloping from tho base of the second to the coast which
is exceedingly rocky and forbidding. The underlying stratum is sand-
stone.

From Po. ^^.o Nuevo to Pillar Point or Punta iw Corral Ticrra, forming
the southern auu • n point of Half-moon Bay, tho general direction is

N.AV. by N. J N., and u.v l.stance 25 miles. Three m::,- and a quarter
above the riscador, opens the San (Iregorio, another small stream, and 2i
miles stiU further, opens tho Tunitafi. Tho seaboard between tho valley of
the riscador and that of the San Oregorio undergo a striking change
both in the character of its *opograj>hy and its geology. Instead of the
table-land we meet with a -pur cl the coast mountains running into the sea,
and having an elevation of 000 ieet within a mile of it. Tho shore line and
the coast generally prese.ft a -ery rugged and broken appearance, occasioned
by the deep gulches cut through to the ocean.

HALF-MOON BAY.— This anchorage is S.8.E. from Point San Pedro, and
18 miles S. by E. from the Golden Oate. The south-western point of tho
bay is formed by a blutf table-lnnd, about 100 feet in height, called tho
Corral do Tiorra, 325 yards South of which stretches a number of black
rocks, which show as one when seen coming up the coast ; but as three or
four when approached from the N.W. The largest io hearly as high as the
bluff, and locally known as Sail Rod; or Pillar Rncl. The point is known as

^^iWte-** \.

HALF -MOON BAY

181

ivhnt ngaiimt
IS within Iosh
tho (listiinco

lios II black
a, elratum of
ouiul of Hand
a point itm'lf
) 100 foot ill
mtains. Tho
trikoH up tho
uist from tho
1(1 near Toint

; 10 miles to
I'oint Mira-
high moun-
ant i;i miles,
o miloa North
)ugh a valley
jral formation
terraces, tho
) coast which
itum is sand-

iora, forming
al direction is
md a quarter
ream, and 2 J
the valley of
riking change
nstoad of the
; into tho sea,
shore line and
ico, occasioned

jan Pedro, and
n point of the
;ht, called tho
mber of black
it as three or
as high as the
int is known as

/'il/(ir Point, and from its Nouth-oastcru oMromity rotky and foul bott in,
murkod by ki^p, exfonds H.E. \ K.. .oVvB-oighths of a mi!.., dropping pud-
dcniy from II foot to 5 fathoms, ttiisi*. tho iniu>r rt-cf, and nuikos tho bay
avuiliiblo as a HUinmor anchorngo i^no milo and throo-tpiartorH 8.K from
tho Haiui) part of tho point, a narrow lodgo of rocky bottom, on« third of n
milo long, and marked by kolp, strotclios in tlio name genoriil diroctiim. Tlio
passage Itotwoon this outor and tho inner roof is throo-inuirtors of a mile
wide, with rocky and nntwon bottom, from 3^ to 10} futhoms. These lodges
lie parallel with the const mountains, and with tlio whore lino, from which
the outer one is distant 1,3 milo. From tho oastorn n.xtron.ily of tho point
the shore rims N.AV. by N. for a quarter of a milo; tlion N.K. for thr.io-
•luartorsofa milo, curving to tho eastward and south-eastward in a long
bond for 2.\ miles to tho mouth of tho .Irmi/n de U J'i/fdiritoK, down which
comos tho only road crossing tlio peninsula of San Francisco, botwoen tho
I-aguna do Morcodos and .Santa Cruz. Tho highest part of this road, which
crosses a depression of tho peninsula, is near tho coast survey station ridge,
which is 1,()<)3 foot above tho ocean, and but a few foot higher than the
road. The outer reef is nearly abreast of tho I'illarcitos, from which tho
coast runs South 4 miles to J///'rt//!«.'(^',>i J'uinf, which is S. 48° E., f) miles
from I'illar Point, thonce to tho mouth of tho Trinitas the distance is 4 miles
kS.E. Tlie greatest extent of tho bay may bo said to bo between Pillar and
Afiramontes Points ; but tho part near tho former only is avniluble.

Tho soundings between tho rocky ledges and tho shore are quite regular,
decreasing from 9 to 3 futhoms, at less than a <iuarter of a milo from tho
beach, with sandy bottom. The passage to the anchorage is between tho
in' • and outer reef, with the high, baro-toppod mountain bearing a littlo
Nl h of East, and Pillar I'oint open to tho westward. This mountain is
steep, with straggling redwoods on its flanks, and the summit bare. It is
locally known as JJaM Pate; but on the Spanj.sh grants as ('umbra de /«»
Auras. When inside tho reefs, beat up until I'illar Point bears about S.W.,
distant half a mile, and anchor in 41 fathoms, hard sand. With southerly
light winds a heavy swell sets in ; but upon the ai>proach of heavy S.E.
weather, it is necessary to go to sea.

Tne mass of redwoods cresting the mountains of tho peninsula cease ab-
ruptly abreast of Miramontes, and only stragglers are seen to tho uorthw.ird.
They are a good mark for recognising this part of the coast when coming in
from sea.

Around Half-moon Bay is a limited extent of aji^icultural couiitr}' at tho
seaward base of tho mouutains, and small coasters carry the produce to San
Francisco.

About one milo along the coast to the north -we.st ward is a small boat har-
bour, 100 yards Avide, formed and protected by outlying rocks, and having ;'>.J
fathoms in it. In the autumn months it is usel as a whfilinjr stntion

■It

T:nSiB?Wa!!

132 THE COAST OF CALIFOENIA.

About a thousaud gallons of humpback oU were obtained In the fall of

Point San Pedro lies N.W. by N. i N, 30 miles from Point Auo Nuevo,
and S 12° E. from Point Lobos, at the entrance to the Golden Gate. It is
a black, bold, rocky promontory, over 500 feet high, having a high, large,
lagged rock at the northern part, and is a prominent and excellent vaark lor
making the entrance to San Francisco. The principal rock is nearly 100
feet high. Its South face is white, and shows the lino of stratification plainly.
From the West the dip of the strata shows about 60 degrees to the north-
ward It is connected with the main by some low rocks. Half a mile to
the N E. of the point is the valley of San Pedro, from which the pomt takes
its name. From Point San Pedro the bell-boat off the bar of San Fran-
cisco is distant 12 miles, and from Point Auo Nuevo it is 40 miles upon a

N.W. by N. course.

The rauo-e of mountains forming the north-eastern shore of Monterey
Bay and extending to Santa Cru/ and Point Auo Nuevo, is called Santa Cruz.
Thence northward to the Golden Gate, and forming the peninsula of San
Francisco, by bounding the bay on the West, the mountains are known
as the San Francisco or San Bruno range.

SAN FRANCISCO.

The port of San Francisco was discovered as late as the year 1769, and
that, too, not by the obvious mode of such au expedition, but by one over-
land. Perhaps one reason why it had been so overlooked by other navigators
is, that its narrow enti-ance is so frequently hidden by fog. In 1767, when the
Jesuits were replaced by the Franciscans, the Viceroy of Mexico, the Marquis .
de Croix, finding that England and France were taking an interest in these
countries, as evidenced by the expeditions of Cook and Bougainville, and
that Eussia, too, was steadUy progressing from the North, proposed to the
ecclesiastics the colonization of this territory. Accordingly it was divided
into districts, and mhsions were planned for San Diego and Monterey, the
only two ports then known to exist in the upper province. Three vessels
were despatched from San Diego, but were eminently unfortunate, from the
fact that the N.W. or opposing winds blow during three-fourths of the
year. Under these circumstances the remainder of the distance was under-
taken by land, and though the explorers did i\ot recognise what is now
Monterey, they made tlie far more valuable discovery of the inland sea to
which tho name of the patron saint of their order, and of sailors in general,

was given.
The mission was founded, and its progress hud but comparatively little to

'-' -tHI !t »i l ,

il{iaiilBiiiiiV?i''i''^i'l

ined In the fall of

. Point Alio Nuevo,
Golden Gate. It is
ing a high, large,
, excellent vaark for
rock is nearly 100
tratification plainly,
frees to the north-
. Half a mile to
lich the point takes
I bar of San Fran-
is 40 miles upon a

shore of Monterey
is called Santa Cruz,
iie peninsula of San
)uutains are known

the year 1769, and
an, but by one over-
l by other navigators
g. In 1767, when the
Mexico, the Marquis .
f an interest in these
id Bougainville, and
n-th, proposed to the
[ingly it was divided
^0 and Monterey, the
viuce. Three vessels
mfortunato, from the

three-fourths of the
B distance was under-
scognise what is now

of tbo inland sea to
I of sailors in general,

comparatively little to

rj;v

jfeijfcj^ i4:i^H :_ r . 'Vobu. r. ;" ; 'lat-i

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IS 17

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f •■ L«rf..E j3

SAN FRANCISCO.

183

do with tlio oxtcnial world, and this littlo comniorclal importanto was ull
but annihihitod by ilio rovohition in 1836.

Wh(m Captain (afterwards Rear- Admiral) F. W. Ijocchoy surveyed the
barbour in 1828, the placo had but s^ fow wrotcbcd adobo htnisos at Yorba
Iluena, occupiod by indolent half-broods, wit) i not the slightest indication
of the wonderful capabilities which were soon after to bo developed. History
affords no oxamplo of such a sudden rise in importance as (California.
Scarcely a month had elapsed sinco its annexatitm to t!ie United States
before the gold discovery by Captain Suter and olliers was made, and very
soon after the desolate harbour of San Francisco became crowded witli
shipping, brlngin}^ an immense inllux of ;j;old seekers, and tho ships, three
or four hundred in number, laid there, deserted by their crows, and in sonm
cases by their captains also. Ikit this influx of people has left behind it tlio
permanent advantages of a si'tfled population, and there can be no doubt
but that San Francisco, tho (iueon of tho I'acilic, is destined to bo one of
the most important centres of civilization and commerce that the world
possesses.

Besides the immense territory of which it is tli<^ commercial and political
capital, and its vast powers of production, it will cijmmaud tho conmiorco of
tho North-east I'acilic, and with it also that between tho United States and
China, Japan, &c., and the numerous lines of immense steamers which now
sail to and from this port as a centre is one of tho wonders of the present
century. This commercial importance will bo enormously increased by the
I'aciflc railroad, completed in an unparalleled brief period at the end of
186!) ;* so that but a very fow days will suffice to connect this most remote
part of the world with European trade and travel. In 1807 its population
amounted to 131,000, and it was the tenth in order of amount of population
in the cities of the Union.

San Francisco is ill placed, as I'ar as mere building facilities are concerned.
When the first houses were built in 1848 and 1849 they stood on a strip of
beach around tho Cove of Verba Buena, and at tho foot of the steep and lofty
sand-hills. Dunes and cove have disappeared together ; the hills have been
shot bodily into the bay, and tho former harbour is now the business quarter
of the city. One great danger on this coast all its cities sluire in comnaon :
throe times -within the present century the spot on which San Francisco
stands has been violently disturbed by subterranean forces.

The Contra Costa range is unbroken but by the single gap of the (Joldon

• Tho act criiUiiig the Pacilic Kiiilrond Conipanj' passed in l«(i2; tlio coinimny wori>
bouiul to complete thoir lino at tho rate of 100 iiiilcs a year. Thoy conipUtiil it at moro
than threo limes that rate, at 2 miles per d.ay at one end and U, niilo at tlie other. A .t,'ood
account of the progress ol this marvellous uiKlt-rtaking is given in Dr. Bell's "New
Tracks iu North America," IHiiO.

181

SAN FJ^\^TIs^"().

*^r»

(iHte, «.,a llirougl. this oponin- th.,> cold winds rusl, in a novor-consmg galo,
enroadin- fan-liko as R-.on an they l.avo passed the Narrows. Ileucc it is
that the (i.dd.-n (Jate is ..alh>d the '• Keyhok.," and tho wind the " Keyhoh,
llroozc." ITp country tliey make it raiso tho water for irrigation. In
winter there is a cahu, and then the city is as sunny as tho rest of Cah-
fornia.— (Sir) ('. WentworthMke, M.P., 1868.

Altli.nn,^h the entrance is easy, facilitated as it is by the excellent liglits
and buoys which dolino its pron.inont points, or point out its few dangers,
M'o give unabridged the directions drawn by the U.S. coast survey officers m
18G2, n jdifiod, of course, by the changes >, aich have since been made.

The GOLDEN GATE is the entrance to tho bay, and presents the cha-
racter of u great cleft or fissure in the sea-coast range of mountains, thereby
connecting tho Bay of San Francisco witli tho Paciiic Ocean. In approacli-
ing it is diflicult to imagine that a deep channel lies ahead, so clear is the
atmosphere and so well doCned the Contra Costa mountains behind tho bay.
Both shores are bold, broken into points, and rocky; but the northern is
m-'h tho bolder, rising almost perpendicularly from the water, attaining an
oievation of about 1,000 feet, but a short distance back, and in 7 miles rising
to '2,G00 feet. On the South side, between the points, are stretches of low
beach ; tho hills are undulating and of moderate elevation, increasing very
gradually in altitude to the southward, and reaching a height of l,2o0 feet
in about G or 8 miles. The chart of San Francisco entrance, which accom-
panies the annual coast survey report for 1850, shows the bold and charac-
teristic topography of the vicinity of the Golden Gate.

Point Boneta.— Tho North head of the entrance is formed by this Point ;
„ narrow, prc'ipitous, rocky capo, nearly JiOO feet high, and stretching from
tiie lighthouse about half a mile to the S.E. Behind it the mountains rise
rapidry to an elevation of 1,500 feet. During the dry season tho deposit of
sea birds accumulates in such quantities on the ridge outside of Boneta
lighthouse, as to make tho bluff show white, but the first heavy rain carries
it"olf, and then throughout the rainy season the point exhibits its natural
appearance. There are no dangers off the point, tho line of three fathoms
rarely extending 300 yards from any portion of it. Wlien tho clipper ship
San I'Vancmv was lost on this head, we are told that she first struck tho
bluir inside tho heads ; was carried by the currents around the point, and
then cast ashore on the outside. From 5 to 6 fathoms can be found on every
Bide within a fifth of a mile of the point.

The Lighthouse is situated nearly half a mile from the extremity of the
point, and consists of a brick tower painted white, and surmounted by a
lantern painted black. From seaward it is seen projected against the dark,
high hills behind it, and in clear weather is a very plain object. Lat. 37"
4y' 10.0" N., long. 122° 30' 50.3' W., or, in time, 8" 10"' 3A\ From the light

Tk'ucc it iH

" Keyhole
igation. In
rest of Cali-

3ell<'nt lights
few dangers,
rey officers in

1 made.

ints the cha-
uins, thereby
In approach -
• clear is the
hind the bay.
B northern is
, attaining an
7 miles rising
etches of low
icreasing very
of 1,2.)0 feet
which accom-
1 and charac-

by this Point ;
tretcliing from
nountains rise
the deposit of
lide of Boueta
vy rain carries
jits its natural
three fathoms
ho clipper ship
Brst struck the
the point, and
found on every

xtremity of the
rmounted by a
gainst the dark,
•ject. Lat. 37°
From the light

roiNT Hd'.os.

18.)

at Point Bonota to that on Fort I'oint, tlio distance is 2} miles, ind bearing
E. i N.

The A/_ijF bell on Point lioneta is in a frame building, just in advance of the
lightliouso, at an eleviition of 270 feet. Tlie bi^ll weighs 1,500 pounds, and
during fo^gy and thick weather is struck si.v blows, at intervals of 1(5
seconds each, followed by a pause of 44 seconds.

POINT LOBOS.— The South Jiead of the entranc(^ to San Francisco Bay is
formed by this point, ;i75 foot liigli.

A /w/ hll is (or was^ kept in operation by j)rivnte enterprise. T'pon the
round-topped hill behind the jioint is erected a large frame building for a
telegrapli station, whence the electric wires run to the City of San Fran-
cisco. The first telegraphic message transmitted on the I'acific coast was
over these wires. Southward of the head the sand dunes are conspicuous,
and easily recognised features in approaching the entrance. The strong
N.W. summer winds, drawing in over the land, raise the white sand from
tiie three miles of broad beach, and carrying it inland over the hi'1-tops,
bury grass, bushes, and scrub oak. The quantity of sand driven in from this
beach is enormous, and its accumulation has greatly modified the topography
of the peninsula.

Off the western face of Point Lobos lie a number of black, jagged rocks,
about 50 feet high, but all within the 5-fathoms line, and close in-slioro.
They are called Seal Itocks, .and one of them shows a largo arch from par-
ticular directions. Tlio outer one bears from Point Boneta S.E. by S. J S.,
and is distant 2^ miles. From it the general trend of the shore runs in a
line to Fort Point for nearly a mile, to a short jutting high point, off which
lie the ^lile Ilocks. From this point the shore runs well to the eastward for
a mile, gradually trending to the North for a mile and a half to Fort Point.
In the deepest part of this bend the shore is low, with small hillocks rising
from the general surface and slope of the hills, and fronted by a long sand
beach.

Mile Rocks. — These two rocks He off Point Lobos, a short distance within
the limit of the entrance of the Golden Gate. Tliey are small, near each
other, and have a height of 15 feet above water, with a good depth of water
all around and close to them ; but the current twirls and eddies them about
in such a manner as to render a near approach anything but agreeable or
safe with a light wind. The inner and smaller rock is one-third of a mile
to the northward of the small jutting point inside of Point Lobos, and very
nearly 2 miles S.W. ^ S. from Fort Point. Vessels running in on the line
of Fort Point and Alcatraz Island, pass less than half a mile from the outer
and larger rock. The rocks bear almost S.E. from Boneta light, and distant
1^ mile. They were called " One Mile Rocks " by Beochey, in November,
1826.

Fort Point. — This was formerly a bold, narrow, jutting promontory of

■^.'■V^^^ii^\'-^,;-\

186

SAN FRANCISH).

Imrd Borpentino roclc, 107 foot abovo hl'Ah wator, a,ul Runnountod l.y a snmll
Mexican fortillcation, •■ailed Fort Blan.o. Tho view frcu tho point ^vas
ouo of tho llnoHt in tho harbour ; but tho whole headland has boon cut down
to within a few foot of higli water, and increased m area to form a largo for-
tification. Upon tho hill Hide rising' behind it are lious.s f..r tho .coomnioda-
tion of tho commandant, ollicers, soldiers, and workmen. Eastwar.l oi tho
point is a long substantial wharf, oonstructod for rocoiving stores, ordnance,
&c. Several largo vessels have been lost on Fort Point, by venturing too
close during light airs and strong irregular currents.

The Lighthouse on Fort I'oint is a wooden building, r-iintc'd white, an.l
situated oulsido of tho ibrtitications, showing a Ji.ml li;ild at 52 feet, wh.di
can be soon 12.\ milos off. Tho South Farallon light is visible Irom a ves-
„el'8 deck when abreast of Fort Point. Tho/o,, hell at Fort Point is on tho
eastern side of tho lighthouse, and almost tou.hing it. The boll wo.ghs
1,092 pounds, and during foggy or thick weather is struck by madm.ery
live blows at intervals of 10 seconds, followed by a pause of 34 seconds.

The Bar off the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, has a depth of o
fathoms at the lowest tides. Its general form is that of a horseshoe, com-
mencing 1 ilos southward, stretching <,ut gradually to 6 miles abreast ot
Point Lobos: and when nearly up to the parallel of Point P.meta, running
in shore towards that point, ad forming the " Four-fathoms ]3ank," from
a distance of 4 miles down to 1. The average breadth of tho bar w.thm tho
limits of the (-.-fathoms curve is about one mile. It falls olf ouI.kIo t.. 10
fathoms in half a mile, and deepens gradually insido Not less than .^. fa-
thoms exist over tho bar, when Point Bonota light boars between N.L. by

E. i E., and N. by W. I W- ., . ^ ^,

No vessel should anchor on the bar if she can possibly avoid it ; frequently
a heavy swell sets in without wind, and if the current is running strong
ebb it allows little chance of escaping from an uncomfortable berth.
The flood-tide makes on the bar about 61 minutes earlier than at San

Francisco. . . • i iu *

It has been given as a rule for stea-ners approaching in thick weather, to
run for tho bar as nearly as they can estimate, keeping the lead going until
they strike 5 fathoms, and run on until the depth is increased, when the
armed lead should bring up gray sand with red specks, and they may con-
elude themselves within the bar. Recently it has been intimated that these
peculiarities of bottom exist also outside of tho bar.

Tho fo- •sometimes stands like a waU, outside of a lino from Fort Point
across th°e entrance, whilo the bay inside is beautifully clear. After the
greatest heat of tho day is past, this fog creeps in and envelopes land and

'"Buoy on the Four-failw,m Bank.-X iirst-class can buoy, with red and
black horizontal stripes, is placed at 4 fathoms at mean low wator, near the

ALCATRAZ ISLAND AND LIGHT.

187

by a sniall
point wns
m cut down
a largo f'ur-
'Ofommoda-
ft-ard oi tho
,, ordnance,
ntiiring too

whito, and
foot, wliich
from a vos-
nt is oil tho
boll Wfijihs
f ruachinory
seconds.
, depth of T)
ioshoe, com-
8 abreast of
ota, running
Bank," from
ar witliin tho
Dutijide to 10
8H than •> I'a-
oen N.E. by

t; frequently
nning strong
)erth.
than at San

k weather, to
id going until
led, when the
hey may con-
;ed that these

na Fort I'oint
ir. After the
ipes land and

with rod and
rater, near the

western and seaward end of tho " I'our-fathoms Bank " lying off Point IJo-
neta. Tiio following bearings and distances will give its position. It is on
tho prolongation of the lino from Fort Point light to tho oxtronio point of
Honeta. I'oint Uonota light boars E. l.'J" N., distant 3.i miles. Outer tele-
graph station on Point Lobos boars E. 1.'!° S., distant f)} miles. Tho highest
part of tlio w(>9terii ridgo of Table Mountain bears N. \'i' W. There is a
spot having but tVl fathoms upon it outside this buoy, bearing S. .j I ' \V.,-and
distant seven-eighths of a mile.

T/ic s/iari's of i/te Gnldi'ii Gate. — On tho North side of tho Golden Gato tlio
shores ur.. >ory pn^cipitoiis, with an occasional sliort stretch of sand beach at
tho base of tlio blull's, allordiiifj^ a boat landing. Pdiiit hlahht is tlio first
point insido Boneta, and bears N.E. by E. i E., distant l.V milo from it ; be-
tween those tho shore is indented about three-ciuarters of a mil(>, atrordiiig
a boat landing diirin;,' smooth weather for (lie liglitlioiiso poopl(\ In tlu^
vicinity of Point Diablo tlie faces of tlio clifFs show of a reddish purphj colour.
Tho red specks found on tho bar are doubtless derived from tho disintegra-
tion of thi^se reddish clill's.

From Point Diablo the shore is jagged and irregular to JAmr Point lilujj',
495 feet high, distant om; milo, and bearing N.E. J E. ( )(f this point are
several high rocks, but they are so close to tho bluff as to bo distinguishable
only from certain directions. From Lime Point Blulf to Fort Point tho dis-
tance is bai'cly a milo, and tho bearing S. by E. ^ E. This is the narrowest
part of the Golden Gate. Thonco tho bay begins to open well to the N.E.

On the South side, eastward from Fort I'oint, the shor(( is low, ilat, and
marshy, to Point San Jose, distant 2^ miles, and bearing E. by N. This
point is moderately high, with a few houses clustering upon it, and is locally
known as Black Point. Off this reach was tlie " outer anchorage " of former
navigators, and the Presidio of San Francisco is seen a short distance
behind it.

Prom Point San Joso to North Point, at the base of Telegraph Hill, tho
distance is one mile, and tho bearing E. 2 N. All this spaco forms part of
the city of San Francisco, and is covered with houses. The shore here is de-
nominated the North Beach, and from about tho middle of tho lowest part
projects a long wharf over the flats to 3 fathoms water. This has naturally
caused a great deposit around it, and now only 4i feet of water can bo obtained
at the N.W. part of the wharf at mean low water.

Telegraph Hill rims to a. h&i^hi of 301 feet above the mean level of tho
bay, and is covered with houses to its summit wherever building room can
be obtained. Tho present plan of the city grades contemplates tho entire
removal of this hill.

ALCATRAZ ISLAND and Light.— This is the first island that is opened
in entering the Golden Gato, and upon it is erected a lighthouse. Tho island
is nearly 600 yards long, in a W.N.W. direction, by about 260 in width,

'^t

•^S!r*f^MJI^y

IHH

SAN Fh'ANOISCO.

a,.,l risos to an olovatio,, of Li:, loot ubove l.igli watc^r. Tl.o Hummit .s flat,
lulling away ^nntly on all sid.'H for huuio di«tauc.>, aiul tlwa at tl.o 8id«s
avopi.inK porpou.licularly. 1 )..ei. wator marks exist all round tho island, and,
with tho oxioi.tion of ono or two l.lucos, tho sides oro BO stoop that a lan.linK
is offoctcd with dilficulty. Kxtonsivo fortihcations aro ( onstnK^tcd upon it.
At tho H.E. side a small pier has Leon l.uilt to recoivo stores, ordnance, an.l
inatirials. OU' the N.W. part foul bottom umkes out about !5(K) or 400

Tho liKhthouso is built on tl.o summit of tho island, and boars N.W. from
Telegraph Hill, distant l,,f milo; fr..m Fort I'oint N.E. ;.' E., distant n m.les.
The light is u AW harbour li;//,!, illuminating tho entire hori/.on. It is 100
feet above the" level of tho sea, and should he soon from tho sea at a distance

of 14 miles.

Tho frame-work supporting the /Iv/i'// in built .m tho south-eastern "v-
tren.ity of tho island, .lose to tho water's edge, and is struck by machinery
four blows at intervals of eight seconds, followed by a pause of htteen

seconds. ■■, n.^ i-

No hidden dangers have boon discovered in tho entrance outs.de of tho line
from Fort Point to Lime Point Blufl', but there aro several inside.

Presidio ^hoal, having ^ fathoms npon it, lies H mile inside of Fort
Point, and bears N.E. by E. J E. from it, or throe-quarters of a point east-
ward of the lino between the lights on Fort Point and Alcatraz Island. Tho
shoal is about 700 yards long .vithin tho 4-fathom8 curvo. It is very narrow,
Bhows sandy bottom, and has deep water all around it. Its general direction
is on the above mentioned bearing. From the shoalest part tho Presidio

flagstail" boars S. .i E. , ,.,..,

Anita Hock shows above water at low tides, and is situated U mile inside
of Fort Point, and bears E. by N. from it. It is only 800 yards from tho
low beach, and has deep water close around it.

A spar buoy, painted red, with even numbers, has been placed in 3 fa-
thoms water, about half a cable', length due West from the shoalost part of
Anita rock. Vessels should not approach this buoy within a cable's length,
as a strong current sots across the rock. It was named after the United
States quartermaster's barque Anita that struck upon it.

Jiird or Arch Rock is a smaU pyramidal rock, about 4.5 feet in diameter, SO
feet high, and bearing W. f S., distant seven-eighths of a milo from the
lighthouse on Alcatraz Island. When seen in tho direction from or towards
the Presidio Shoal, it presents a perforation at low tides.

Shag Rock is a low white-topped rock, about half a mile N.N.E. from Bird
Eock. From Alcatraz light it bears W. by N., distant 1 milo. For about
300 yards towards Alcatraz Island the bottom is foul and irregular, but out-
Bide that limit 10 fathoms are found. The rock shows about 4 feet above
the highest tides, being then not more than 8 or 10 feet in extent.

irnnit is fliit,
lit tlio flidt'S
» island, and,
lilt a lundinK
i;tod upon it.
:dnanco, and
; 300 or 400

s N,W. from
;ant lij miles,
n. It ia 100
at a distanoo

li-oawtern "v-
jy niachintii-y
USD of fii'teciu

ide of tlio lino
ido.

iiisido of Fort
a point east-
; Island. The
s very narrow,
moral diroction
t tho Presidio

IJ milo inside
arda from tho

laced in 3 fa-
hoalest part of
cable's length,
ter the United

in diameter, 30

milo from tho

From or towards

N.E. from Bird
le. For about
egular, but out-
it 4 feet above
L extent.

YKRIU HUENA AND ANdHL ISLANDS. is;.

Jthmnni Hock is a lodge having 5 foot wator upon it, at tli.. lowest tid.^s, and
within the .'l-fathoms curve is about 000 by 200 yards in o.xtont, with doop
wator out.sido tliose limits. A spar buoy, paint.-d witii rod and black hori-
zontal stripos, has boon ph.ced in 4 fathoms wator, about half a oablo'M
length duo South from tlio shoalest part of tho lodge. Vossols .should not
approach this buoy from any direction noaror than a cable's lengtli. This
ledgo bears E. by S. from Alcatraz light, and li mile distant, bohig aimo.st
on tho lino joining tho South points of Alcutraz and Yi-rba IJuoua Islands.
From tho summit of Tolograph Hill it boars N. G W., distant one mile.
It was discovored, and named by Capt. IJooohoy, K.N., aftor his ship, in
Novembor, 1820.

YERBA BUENA ISLAND is tho large high island oponod to tho East

and South of Alcatraz, alter entoring tho Goldon (Jato. The western point

ofthis island is li' mile from Telegraph IliU, and tho bearing N.E. by E.

Its peak is 343 foet high; tho sides steop and irregular, and rising to a ridgo

running nearly East and West. On tho western or San Francisco side the

wator is very deep close in shore, but from the N.W. point a ;5-fathoms bank

extends IJ mile N.W. by N., spreading to tlio eastward lor half a milo, and

thence running to tho N.E. p.jiut. Tho wreck of tho ship Vrotoi Prinvrnx lies

in 5 fathoms ou tho western odgo of this bank, and a day mark painted red

has been attached to her, consisting of a plank 7 inches by 3 inches, 30 feet

long, showing 15 feet above high wator, with a board 5 feet long nailed

across just below tho top. In early timos this island is said to havo

been densely coveru 1 with wood, and was known to navigators and whalers

as Wood Island. Now it has but a few scrubby troos.

ANGEL ISLAND.-AMien passing through the narrowest part of tho
Golden Gate, this largo island boars about N.N.E., and is seen as an island
for a very short timo whon in the narrowest part of the Goldon Gate. It bus
an irregular and bold shore-line of about o miles, and an area of one square
milo. It rises to u height of 771 feet, is covered with grass and bushes, and
cut in every direction by doop gulloys. As seen from tho south-castwanl it
appears part of tho northern peninsula, but is divided from that on its N.W.
face by llacvoon titraitii, three-quarters of a mile in width, having a depth of
wator ranging from 10 to 30 fathoms, and a very strong current. A narrow,
high jutting point makes out from the S.E. portion of tho island, bearing N.
I W. from Alcatraz Island light, and distant li milo. From this '„ „.; the
general trend of tho southern face for over a milo is W. by S. toward .Hauce-
lito Point.

Punta de los CavaUos is half a mile N.N.W. from Lime Point Bluff. The
shore lino between them falls slightly back, and a very small valley makes
down from the hills behind.

Point Saucflito.—Fnna Point Cavallos tho general trend of the shore is
N.W. by N. for 1.} mile to Point Sancelito, with nearly a stiaight shore-Hne.

3 :

190 RAN FHANCISCO.

Ono milo from Point OavalloH Ih tho anelioragn of Sancolito, wl.or. men-of-
^ur and ^halor. formerly anchorod. It lioB ubroa^t of a fovv hounos foruv>nK
,lu3 town of Sauclito, wIh.uco much of tho water UHod in San Iranc.BCO waH
formerly taken in Btoam wator-boats. North of thin anchorage ih a largo
bay, with but a few foot of water. From Saucelito Point to the wostorn
point of Angel Inland, tho distance in IJ milo, and tho bearing NJl by E.
J E. To roninsula roh.t, forming tlie south-western i.art of Kaccoon
Strait, th. distance is ono milo, and bearing N.E. J E. ,,,.,,.,,

TIDES -As a general rule, there aro upon tho rac.hc Coast of the United
States ono largo and one small tide during each day, the heights ot two
.ucoessivo high waters-o..cu:ring ono. a.m., and the other p.m. of the same
twenty-f..ur hours-and the intervals from the next precodmg trausi of the
moon are very different, ho much so that at certain periods a rock which has
3i feet upon it at low tide nay bo awash on tho next succooding low

"" These ;noqualitios dopor-d upon tho moon's declination. They disappear
near the time of tho moon's declination being nothing, and are greatest about
tho timo of its bei.g greatest. The inequalities for low water are not tho
same as for high, though thoy disappear and have tho greatest value at

nearly tho same times. „ , , , • i. x- 1 e

When tho moon's declination is North, the higher of tho two high tules of
the tw«nty-four hours occurs at San Francisco about eleven and a far urs
after tho moon's transit ; and when tho declination is South tho oi

tho two high tides occurs at about that interval. Tho lower of tho two low
M-ators of tho day is tho one which follows next the higher nigh water. _
Tho coiTectod establishment, or mean interval between th. moon s transic
nnd the time of hi,h water at San Francisco, is 12" C". Tho mean rise and
fall of tides is 3.6 feet ; of spring tides, -l.-'J feet ; and of .leap tides 2.8 feet.
The mean duration of the (lood is 6" SO'"; of the ebb, 5" 5P' ; and of the
stand 34- 'xhe average difference between tho corrected establishment of
the am and p.m. tides of the same day is 1'- 28- for high water, and 0" 38-
for low v.ator. The differences when the moon's declination is greatest are
o" 30- and 0" 48'" The average difference in height of those two tides is 1 . 1
foot for tho high waters, and '2.2 feet for the low waters. When tho moon's
declination is greatest those differences are 1.5 foot and 3.7 feet respectively.
The average difference of the higher high and lower low waters of the same
dav is 5 2 feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest. 6.1 feet. Tne
higher high tide in tho twenty-four hours occurs about 11^ 22- after the
moou^s upper tiansit (southing), when the moon's declination is North, and
about 1" 2- before, when South. The lower of the low waters, about 7" after
the higher high tide. The greatest observed difference between tho two low
waters of one day was 5.3 feet, and the greatest difference between the higher
high and lower low waters of ono day was 8.5 feet.

iliort« mon-of-
ouHOH t'onning
Francisco wan
igo irt a largo
) tho wostorn
g N.E. by E.
rt of llaccoon

; of the United
loights of two
ai. of tho samo
tranflit of tlio
pock which hiis
uccoodlng low

Dhey disappear

greatest about

er are not the

aatest value at

\'o high t'Vles of
ad a hr' uvs
1, tho of

of tho two low
gh water.
:; moon's transit
) mean rise and
ip tides 2.8feot.
P' ; and of the
stablishmont of
xter, and 0" 38"'
is greatest aro
I two tides is l.l
Vhon tho moon's
[eet respectively,
iters of the same
, G.l feet. Tne
Ih 22"" after the
jn is North, and
rs, about 7'' after
veon the two low
twecn the higher

( lui )

SAILINa UTRECTI0N8.

For npproaching and rn(m\f/ Smi Francmo /hi/.—hx aiiproaching tho coast
every opportunity «h..uld bo hoized for dotonnining tho vohsoI's position, as
fogs and (hick woathor prevail noar tho land. Vossols coming from tlio
Boutliward n>ako tho coast about Point Ano Nuovo (lat. 37' TN.), and follow
it at a distanco ..f 4 or 5 miles up to tho bar. Steamers koop dos'o under tho
land for fear of losing it in f<.ggy weather. Coming from tho westward,
thoy first sight tho South Farallon Islai... (lat. 37^ 42' N.), having tho light-
house upon it, and keep upon either side of it; but it is preferable to go to
tho Houtliward, especially in thick weather, and at night, as the vicinity of
the island has not yet been surveyed in detail. From tho South Farallon
lighthouse tho Point Boneta light bears N.E. by E. 2;33 miles. Coming
from tho north-westward thoy mako Punta de los Royes, 597 foot high in
lat. as^ 0' N., long. 123^ 0' W., and pass within 2 or 3 miles of it, 15 fa-
thoms being found within a quarter of a milo from it, but vessels are apt
to lose tho wind by getting too clo.se under it. From tho western extremity
of this point, tho Point Bonola light boars E. 2 «-, distant 25J miles, tho
lino passing over the tail of DuxLury Hoof, at u .1; lauco of Hj milos from
Los KoyoH.

The prolongation of tho range from Alcatraz Island to Fort Point,
giving a courso N.E. { E. for vessels entering tho Golden Gate, is desig'
natcd by Sir Edward Belcher "the fnir-way line; and ho calls tho
island and fort tho "fairway marks." But with a heavy swell on the
bar this range should bo used merely as a lino of reference, bociu.so on
tho bar it passes over a small 6-futhoms spot, while half a fathom more
can be obtained for a distance of 2 miles, both North and South of it.
In clear weather, and with a favourable wind, a vessel can cross tho bar
iu not loss than 5 fathoms from tho line, having the North end of Alca-
traz Island just open by I'oint Boneta (N.E. by E. ? E.) round to tho
shore South of Point Lobes (N.W. by W. J AV.). Northward of tho
i'ormov line tlie 4.fathoms bank (having Sj fathoms upon it), commences
one mile West of Boneta, and stretches out over 3 miles, w.th a breadth
of one mile. Upon this bank tho clipper Golden Fleece struck iu 1857,
aud came into port with 7 or 8 feet of water in her hold. She was the'
second of that name that was unfortunate in entering the harbour, the first
having been totally lost on Fort Point.

Between the eastern extremity of tho " 1-fathoms bank " and the shore,
the distance is seven-eighths of a mile, and within this space can bo found the
deepest water for outoring tho harbour, but it would bo dangerous for a sail-
ing vessel to attempt it with a flood tide and light winds. While it is break-

^92 SAN FRANCISCO.

i„g on the banlc, only a heavy swell is found through this ^^'^f^^^J^^
Z and small sail boats have passed in nafoty when they dared not try Uu
It. We entered it in the brig W.anM, in June, 185-1. and the ste.n s.p
Col.nMa frequently used it in leaving the harbour for t^^Pl^^^ ' ^
the heavy weather on the bar would otherwise have delayed her .a port.
CloseTu under the cliffs, 2 or 3 miles above Boneta, we anchored in 8 fathcns

^^, moderate weather, any vessel can cross the bar. within the
lii^t" we have mentioned, without running until she has got on the < iair-
': line," whereby she might lose her slant of wind. Should the ..nd ad
or L light, and the current adverse, anchor outside the bar m 1. fathon.
Id and fine sand; or aftor crossing the bar in 6 to 10 athoms. fine gray
Tand with red specks in some places. Eunin mid-channel between the heucls,
avlitoo close iLimity to the northern shore, not only in entenng. but in
leaving; the high, bold bluiis causing calms and baffling airs, even with a
outh-e ster blowing out. On the last of January. 18G4. during a south-
easter, three vessels were at one time becalmed under the northern shove,
and baffled with variable airs and strong current eddies for several hours.

Between Fort Point and the opposite shore, take special care not to ap-
proach Fort Point too close, because the currents sot round it "-^u -ly -.
vith great rapidity, and the bottom is uneven and rocky A deptn of 6,i
Ithoms i. gi Jon -l the centre of the channel. In the GoMen G.ie we hav
„.easured an ebb current running about 6 miles per hour. As a generd rul
the winds increase within the heads, drawing in very strongly abreast of Fo t
roint When off this point steer for Alcatraz lighthouse until he North
point of Telegraph Hill bears E. by S. Then sleor to give it a berth o. a
quarter of a mile, running through among the shipping. . , ^ ^ ^, . ^

In making the port at niyU, it is customary to cross the bar with Fort lo.ut
light on with Alcatraz Island light ; or better, the latter a little open to the
northward. But this practice frequently involves much delay and annoyance,
when the wind will not permit a vessel to attain this position without a tack.
With Boneta lightbearingfrom N. by W. to N.E. by E.. a vessel may bolly
run on within tl;oso limits, and unless there be a heavy swell safely cross tlio
4.fathoms bank. Give Boneta a berth of a mih., and when within the heads
and Boneta abeam, gradually open Alcatraz light North of Fort Point, untd
abeam of the latter; then run for Alcatraz, until the lights oi the shipping
Bhow the vessel's position. Hauling up for them, anchor oil the North
beach in 10 fathoms, or off the N.E. front of the city in 10 fathoms, sott

'^''in coming upon the coast in thick fggg weather, sailing vessels should not run
into less than 50 fathoms, because the water around the South Faralon, a.>d
off Point San Podro and Punta de los Reyes, is very bold. It is believed,
however that a 30-Iuthoius bank exi.ts at a cousiderable distance to th«

8 ,\ -fathoms clion-
lared not try the
ud the Hteaiu ship
ippor coast, when
lyed her in port,
bored in 8 fathoms

lie bar, within tho
got on tho "fair-
ouhl the wind fail,
ar in IJ fatlioniw,
fathoms, lino gray
between tho heads,
in entering, but in
T airs, even with a
4, during a south-
lie northern shore,
)r several hours,
ial care not to ap-
d it irregularly and
:y. A deptii of 69
olden Gate we have
As a general rule
igly abreast of Fort
ise until the North
Ive it a berth oi a

bar with Fort I'oiiit
■ a little open to tho
olay and annoyance,
lition without a tack.
, a vessel may boldly
swell safely cross tiio
hen within the heads
I of Fort Point, until
fhts of the shipping
uchor oil' the Nortli
in 10 fathoms, soft

ressels should not run
5 South Farallon, and
bold. It is behevi'd,
ruble distauco to the

SAIIJNO DTREOTrOXS. ,,,3

westward of tlie last. S.AV. of tho line passing through the Farallunes and
Noon-day Rock, the lOO-futhoms curve is only 4 miles distant, and the ;^()-
lathoma curve only 2 miles, with a very irregular bottom. If the Farallonos
be made, a course can be easily laid for the bar, but it would be unadvisable
to run mto less than 10 fathoms, soft mud, if tJie bell-bout be not hoard as
the set and strength of the currents off the bay are yet undetermined, 'sir
Ldward Belcher says, that being caught in a fog, he anchored in 16 fatlioms
to the southward of tho bar, and determined "that southerly of the fair-wav
hne the ebb tide set N.N.E., flood S.S.W." Wo sui.poso he means from tl.;
N.N.E. and the S.S.W. During the season of freshets in the Sacramento
and tributaries, the discoloured water outside the bar will fre.iuently point
out the position of the entrance.

^fmmen in thick wealher Avere aceustoiued to run close along the coast and
endeavoured to make the land North of Point San Pedro, running in until
they got about 15 fathoms, and then laying a course for the bar, shoalin.r
upon It to about 5 fatlioms, and then gradually deepening, while tho fo-.-uu
gave the direction of Boneta light. Before the establishment of the fog°gnn,
the steam-ship Tennessee was wrecked 2 miles North of Boneta, when seeking
for the entrance in a dense fog; the steam-ship L^. S. Leia\ just North of
Duxbury Beef; and the U.S. revenue brig L<wrenee, between Points L(.bos
and San Pedro. Steamers and clippers are afraid to approach the bar in
thick weather. We have entered in a dense fog without hearing the bell,
and the general opinion is that it is ineffective.

In beating out, vessels start on the last quarter of the flood, make the first
tack to the northward of the Blossom Rock, and weather it on the second ;
thence they keep between Alcatraz and the South shore, avoiding Bird Rock'
one mile West of the South end of tho island, and giving a good berth to
toit Point, past which the ebb current will carry them rapidly (with a strong
tendency towards the South shore), and a couple more tacks carry them clear
of the heads. If the vessel be bound to the northward, and the weather shut
in thick, with the wind to the N.W., she makes a tack off shore to the
southward of the Farallones; if tho weather be clear, short tacks are made
ofi' shore until she works off ta Los Reyes, because the sea to the leeward of
that headland is much smoother, and the current less; then stands oft' until
a course can be made for her port.

The Winds.~Tt has been advised to work close along shore to northern
ports during the summer N.AV. winds, and take the ch . nces of land broems
to make latitude, but the attempt will double the li^ngth of any voyage.
Baffling light airs and calms frequently exist along ihe coast, while vessels
several hundred miles off have strong N.W. winds. Moreover, along the
coast we know that the current frequently sets 2 miles per hour from the
northward, except very close under the shores. In our experience we never
yet have met a wind off the land North of San Francisco, and very rarely
North Pacific.

MwatnitftV-M; ijJj' . . ' % i " rJT«^

,34 SAN FT^ANOISrO.

onhoe.oa«t nearly, and gradually dra.' towards and over tho land,
.vintor. witi, wind« from tho southward, this is not so marked.

Frc.^ \pril to October, inclusive, the prevailing wmd is from the N.W..
.h : ;: Wo«t in valleys opening upon the coast, b« m no case
«h"as throu,'h the Golden Gate. During the summer the .uid sets n.
:i^:::^;:L.incroa.ng until nearly sunset, .hen it ^gms ^ ^
awav During it. height it almost regidarly brings m a dense fog wine
Zl^nXJy^>^^^<^ Peni-ula, meets that f^^^^^^^^l
the Golden Gate and ^^^^-^^-:t^:!Zt Id
rule tho breeze does not dispel tho fog. it a og o

;« sure to bring it in. but the heated earth <l'-l-^-j\^^ ^.^^^.^j^^

From November to March the wind is freciuently from the ^-L- Wowmg

heavily working round to the S.W., with a large and broken swel from the

':;^::i..:.^^,rs^y,^^^^^^ the wind not ^^ ^
' , , „ „„„ Tiiir no- heavv south-easters, ine sen.

nt NW with an ugly eross sea. JJuung u..«vv

. weather. Winds rarely blow from points between North, round by the East.

"^Th! further North we advanee the heavier blow the gales i'^ the winter,
.•nio N W wind, are not predicted by the barometer, but from tie h.K al-
„ U;liably , the mevcm-y falling one inch from it.s usmd height of about
" n r men it begins to rise tho wind may be looked upon as soon to
hi nd by the West, and to decrease. Only in one instance during our

:4 i-ce has this failed, and that was otT tho Strait of Juan de Fuea. On

found variable air., i*hen strong summer wmds wore blowing below.

DTIXBTIRY POINT and »eef.-From Toint Boneta, to Du.xbury lomt,

forming tho West side of Ballenas Bay, the course is W. by IS. i N., and

he disLce 9i miles. Tho point, son.etin.es .ailed />'.//... i.s a table land

about 100 feet high, which stretches along the coast for a mi c or more, and

gradually rises to a narrow, n.arly treeless ridge. W^ leet high at its

■- »i - iJ»n.,*v U -^ — - ■ « ' "■'

I cliannol. As
follow the lino
the land. In

rem thp N.W..
t in no case 8i>
he wind sots in
t begins to die
snse fog, which
vanced through
)y sunset. As a
itsido, the wind
or a time.
10 S.E., hiowing
n swell from the
•equently ending
-easters, the sea
iCO, presenting a
front of the city,
blow steadily and
and cold bracing
■ound by the East,

OS in tlio winter,
lora the S.E. al-
al height of about
i upon as soon to
stance during ouv
nan de Fuca. On
able, and easterly
re blowing freshly
and 26 miles from
list the usual North
f 3 miles from the
ivianska Eiver, wo
wing below.

to Duxbury Point,
. by N. i N., and
t'lins, is a table land
!, mllc or more, and
83 feet high at its

BALLENAS nA'\'. ,.,;,

greatest elevation, and ruuning in a straight line l'S] miles N W J W to
Tomale. Point. The old Californians expressively call ittho CuchiUa (Iraud..
laraUel to this ridge on the East, and starting from the West end of tl.e
great cross ridge of Table Mountain, runs another to the north-westward,
and the depression between them, abreast of Duxbury Point, forms the Bal-
lenae Bay, as it does the Tomales Bay fartJier up the coast. This depression
forms a long narrow valley, well watered and timbered, and in many places
cultivated. Two streams running into each bay have their sources nearer
the bay from which each runs. Duxbury Eeef makes out U mile S E J 8
from the southern extremity of the point, and stretching towards Point Bo-
neta forms a safe anchorage in northerly woatbor. From the tail of the reef
to the rocky point E.N.E. from it, the distance is 3 miles, and from this lino
to the gr-of.,8t bend of the bay the distance is H mile.

BALLENAS BAY.-In this bay the 3.fathoms line makes off three-quarters
of a mile from the S.E. face of Duxbury Point, but approaching the low sand
beach East of the narrow entrance to the lagoon. From 4 to 8 fatiioms of
water, with a regular bottom of sand and mud, are found in the bay, and 6
fathoms quite close to the reef. From Duxbury Point to the blulf, at the
entrance to the lagoon, the distance is l^ mile N.E. by N.

The lagoon North of the bay is at the foot of the mountains, and except
small crooked channels, is bare at low tides, and filled with snmll islets The
South side of this lagoon in bounded by a long, narrow, sand spit, stretching
so nearly across it as to leave an entrance of but 100 yards wide at the
S.W. part. Only a few small vessels run betwroen this place and San
Francisco.

The shore North of Boneta Point is bold and high, presenting a marked
and peculiar undulating surface at right angles the sou front.

North of Duxbury the hard rocky shore continu.s bold and high, but gra-
dually merges into cliffs, consisting chiefly of yellowish claN and sand rest-
ing upon granite; and as the surface is regularly undulating, with the direc
tion of the alternate ridges and valleys at right angles to the shore, the
woai-ing action of the surf forms a continuous series of round-topped, bright
vertical bluffs, averaging 100 feet high, and presenting a very noticeable
feature from the sea. Its resemblance to portions of the coast of England
was one of the reasons which induced Drake to apply the name Now Albion
to the coimtry in June, 1579.

The mountains in the back ground rise over 2,000 feet, and the " Tabln
Mountain," of Beechey, attains an elevation of 2,604 feet, stretches nearly
2 miles inland at right angles to the coast, and forms a prominent mark from
seaward, and from the Bay of San Francisco. A few large trees are seen
along the top of the main ridge, running parallel with the coast and behind
the valley, connecting Ballenaa and Tomalos Bays.

^gg SAN FT^ANOTSro.

fiTH FRANCIS DRAKE'S BAY.-From tho tail of Duxbury Beef to the

U,„ E..t end .be co»»e i» W by N, d,..a,,» H, ^.<e • ?- D„^W
tho .horohWld and compaol, running nearly N.W. by w. lor
„, e., then ourvin, regularly U, the we.Uv.rd changing '» » •- f^;,-^'
it reaLhe, it, Breateet latitude at tho Eetcro do L.mantour, «h.oh bear. N.
y E E from the East end of Los Keye., distant 3 mi .», .hence the bno
oLe.U,tho „utUwardandS.W., one mil. W«' "' 'l-o pom, Wng .
loni hiKh, narrow point .tn,tching to the Ea.., and off which «ie breaker.
e?tf;d kal a mile. Thi. cur-ing shoro line form. Sir Francie UraW, bay
which afforde a largo and admirable anchorage in north-we.. "««"•--'
by anchoring clo« in under the Nor.h .ido of the pomt m 4 or 5 fathom.,
hardbottom good but contracted anchorage i. obtained in B.E. gale., a..h,
swell rolling in from the S.W. is broken by the reef , . .v ■,

Several .'teres or lagoons open i„.o .be North side o .he bay, but .b<nr

,.r.^ anri Hhonl Tho largest is the Estero de Liman-
onfrfinres are very narrow ana snoai. j."" laif,^.^

ZZ^ strotcL to the northward over 3 .lies, and one of «ero«s
am. arproaches within a mile of the ocean beach, 5 mdes North of Pomt
Keyos Head. The entrance to this lagoon has 8 feet water, a-l- gone.
Jy marked by breakers on either hand. Coasters can enter wi h the pre-
vailing N.W. ..iad. It was named after Limantour, notorious for h>s at-
tempted great land claim fraud in California He was a ^-c^--; ^;;^
citi/en of Mexico, and asserted that in trading upon this coast m 1841, he
lost the Mexican vessel Ayachnco at the entrance to this estero.

POINT REYES.-This is the most prominont and remarkable headland
North of Point Concopcion. It is distinctly visible from the entrance to San
Francisco Bay, and the summit of tho ridgo presents an irregular jagged out-
line, with the highest part about one-fourth of its length from the western
extremity. Its southern face is a precipitous wall of hard siemtic granite
rising boldly from tho ocean, attaining an elevation of f 'J^^^^^J^
yard^. and stretching a..ay naltrly in a straight line K byK andW.by
S for 3 mUes. This direction is peculiar on the coast, and would not be ex-
pected fi-om a consideration of the trend of the coast mountains and of the
Farallones, which are In line N.W. and S.E. On the North side the cape
faUs away regularly to a L.v undulating neck of land, cut up by esteros
niaking in from Drake's Bay. When made from the Bouthward it is raised
as a tonjr. higU island ; but on approaching it from the westward it is pro-
ieotedupon tho mountains running North from Table Mountain, and its
charaeteristics are nut so readily recognised. Its base is very broken and
rocky and bordered by crags and hundreds of rocks, but they may bo boldly
approached, and 8 fathoms, hard bottom, obtained within less than a
nuarter of a mile. Off the eastern extremity a reef makes out half a mile
in continuation of the point. Upon this reef it breaks heavily m bad

ry Boef to the
[7,^ miles, To
■i'rom Duxbury
. for about 10
,ow shoto, until
vliieb bears N.
thence the lino
loint, leaving a
ch the breakers
lis Drake's bay,
it weather : and
; or 5 fathoms,
I.E. gales, as the

I bay, but their
Istero (le Liman-
) of its numerous
North of Point
er, and is gene-
ter with the pre-
rious for his at-
'renchman, but a
coast in 1841, he
aro.
iirkable headland

entrance to San
(gular jagged out-
Erom the western
i sienitic granite,

597 feet in 300
. byN. andW.by

1 would not be ex-
mtains, and of the
rth side the cape
cut up by esteros
hward it is raised
ss-estward it is pro-
Mountain, and its
i very broken and
they may bo boklly
rithin less than a
kes out half a mile
iks heavily in bad

THE FARALLONES. i;,;

southerly weather, but 9 fathoms can be had clow to the breakers. Off the
western head a depth of 12 fathoms is found quite near to th.- rocks.*

Vessels bound to San Francisco from the northward always make Los
Reyes, and, when up to it, sight two mountains on the southern peninsula
of San Francisco as islands. One of those is Blue Mountain, 1 , 1 00 feet high,
the other Jbhei/ Hill, 1,2.")0 foot.

The Lighthouse of Punta de los Reyes will be placed about a quarter of
a mile from the western i)oint. Tho ocean fa(>o is precipitous, and tlie light
will be at an elevation of about 500 feet above the water.

THE FARAIIONES.

SOUTH FARALLON.— The southern and principal one of the six rocky
islets known aa the FaralhrtM de los Frayln, lies otf the Golden Gate at a dis-
tance of 23i miles ; the whole group is disposed in a nearly straight lino,
running N.W. from tlie southern one. This is the largest and highest, ex-
tending nearly a mile East and West, attaining an elevation of about 340
feet above the sea, and presenting to tho eye a mass of broken jagged rocks,
upon which no vegetation exists, except a few stunted weeds. Tho rocks are
sharp angular masses, which, becoming detached by the operation of natural
causes, roll down upon the more level parts of the island, and cover it with
irregular boulders. Notwithstanding that it is tho outcrop of an immense
dyke of granite, the condition of the sui)erfieiul portion is such that it could
bo separated into small fragments by a pick or crowbar. A more desolate
and barren place can hardly bo imagined. From tho hills about the Golden
Gate the South Farallon is plainly visible, rising in regular pjTamidal foma.

Vessels from the westward, rimning for the Golden Gate, shoidd keep to
the southward of the South Farallon, especially in thick weather and at
night. To the westward of it a depth of 50 fathoms is obtained at a dis-
tance of 3 miles, shoaling to 20 fathoms in 2 miles ; whereas inside of it the
bottom is veiy regular at 30 fathoms for 10 miles, and then decreases regu-
larly to the bar. On the S.E. side of tho island there is said to be good
holding-ground in 15 fathoms. Tlie San Francisco pilot boats cruise off the
island.

South Farallon light.— The tower stands on the liiglicst peak of the
principal island. It is built of brick, 17 feet in height, and is surmounted
by a lantern and illuminating apparatus of the first order of Fresnol. It is
a revolving white light, showing a pnjlongod flash of 10 seconds every
minute throughout the horizon. It is elevated about 3 GO feet above the mean
level of the sea.

• Tho headlaml of I'unta do los Royc« was discovend by Cabrillo iu lOiL', but the proHcnl
nume whs given \i\ ViBciiino, in lUDo.

,yy SAN FRANCISCO,

nau^hutlem the South Farallon.-!. January, 1859, a fog thistle of 6
incllndian^eter, was placed on the South side of the -tern part of the
dll about 275 foet from the water. It is erected over a natural hole m
t tf of a subterranean passage connected with and open to the oce n
and is blown by the rush of air through the passage, caused bj the sea
r I nT,^to Us mouth. The sound shoidd be heard in its v^cmity at aU
timesytsiouu i ^^^^^^ ^^^ water, when the sea

::::: r;'::! «' «^» p««»- '« '• --^ - "- -"- --"^ ■"

r ^or and rising 20 or 30 feet above the water. It hes N. 56 W., dis
rtm^es C the Ughthouse on the South Earallon. Its geographical

-t N^^H ;A^^^Brn:::;Lr^"it. each other and the
Middle and South Farallones, and consist of a group of four islets having a
™^d" appearance as their name denotes, and comprised within a space
SI Ire'tho. half a mile square. The northern three - q^ute h,gh
and bold, the highest peak of the middle one attammg an eleva^^^^^^^^
feet whilst the southern one of the group is a mere rock oi about Jo > aids
tdilotor, andhardly 20 feet above water Viewed from he h.W. or
N E breakers extend across from the largest island to the next one S.E., and
during a heavy ground sweU we have watched it from Pomt Reyes HUl,
wig on Ji^olated sunken rock, lying apparently between the northern
'rdtxgest islet. From certain directions a small pyramidal detached peak
Bhows close to the North side of the northern islet. ■

re northern islet, therefore, bears N. 64° W., distant 6i miles from the
ligiusfonThe So'uth FaraUon. From the Ughthouse site of Puntade los
■Reves it bears South, distant 14 miles. ^ -,. ,

To the southward and eastward from the North FaxaUones, at a distance
of 2 lae we are informed that a sunken rock exists, ha^ng 4 fathoms
. I ^f with kelp around it, except when torn away by storms. In
:: r: he; 1' 2™ iish'aroun'd it; but in bad weather the sea
b el upl- it- The Noon-da, Mock, with 4,^ fathoms of water upon it. bes
W by N distant 3 miles from the North Farallones. with intervemng rocky
bliiust fathoms. Between them and Los Reyes the depth increases
to 50 fathoms about midway.* ^

,n^ T iin„P«delo8Fravle8werediBCoveredbyFerrelo, in February, 1543, and he

• Vfd\oir;e HBX LLin tM. vicinity, one lar.o, and five very B.a.l, wh.c.
,s stated to hav e Been ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^.^ .^ ^^^ ,„,,,og,,i,lo

CabriUo had ^^^-'2tZ:ZLLnt of the S.W. .inde and heavy sea.
" ^:::Sr;hoI::;b. .pCaHy .e„tion. the., in 1.70. a. lyin. o. the har-
bour or bay, where hr rclilted his ships.

WH- i' W ji\ t ^! i i' ' JlW "

rOlNT TOMALES.

199

histle, of 6
part of the
iral hole, in
the cuean,
bj the sea
cinity at all
the waves),
hen the sea
len heard at

I 60 yards in
56° W., dis-
geographical

other and the
lots, having a
ithin a space
•e quite high
nation of 1G6
tout 35 yards
the S.W. or
one S.E., and
t Reyes Hill,
L the northern
detached peak

ailes from the
jf Punta de los

at a distance
ing 4 fathoms
3y storms. In
oathor the sea
or upon it, lies
tervening rocky
depth increases

uary, 1543, and he
very small, which
■8 it was inipoBsiblo
sea.
j lying oft' the har-

Noon-Day Rock. — Tliis danger llos nearly on the prolongation of tho lino
from tho iSoutli Farallon, through tho North Kiiralloiics. It in of very
limited extent, and is doubtless a sharp, isolat(>d point of a snuill lodgo,
having from 20 to 30 fathoms immodiatoly around it. It is plainly visiblo
when diroetly over it, and has 3^ /athoms of water upon it at moan low
water ; but at the extreme low water of spring tides thoro will bo hardly
more than 4 fathoms. In very heavy weather and low water tho soa broak.s
upon it, but this indication seldom exists, and must not be depended upon
for ascertaining its position.

Boneta light will not bo visible from a ship's dock, but may lie seen from
aloft under very favoura])lo atmosph(>ric circumstancos.

In the doscrii)tion of tho South Farallon, and in tho directions for approach-
ing San Francisco, wo have heretofore advised vossols a2)i)roaching the
Golden Gate at night and in thick weather to keep to tho southward of tho
South Farallon light. This advice has now more signiticanco, and should b(!
followed. With Punta de los Reyes aiul tho Farallonos in sight, vossols
bound in and rurming between them sliould keep tho western hoad of lios
Reyes open on a N.N.E. course, coming, nothing to the eastward, until tho
North and South FaraUones are in range, then boar away for tho Golden
Gate. In tli..t position tho rock will boar S.E., distant '2,i miles. Coming
from tho north-westward at night, vessels should not bring tho South Faral-
lon light to bear anything East of S.E. by E., which will clear tho rock by 2
miles, and the North FaraUones by one mile.

South-west of the line passing through the FaraUones and Noon-day Rock,
the 100-fathom curve is only 4 miles distant and tho 50-fatliom curve only
2 miles, with very irregular bottom.*

POINT TOMALES and Tomales Bay.— Northward of Punta dt los Reyes
we find a long reach of broad white sand boach, backed by sand dunes, and
extending in a N. J E. direction about 12 miles, curving to the N.W., and
changing to a high precipitous coast, running to Point Tomah.-s, which
bears N. by W. 15 miles from Los Reyes. Three-quarters of a milo before
reaching the point a rocky islot 80 feet in height is seen close inshore.
Eight nules above Point Reyes is the opening to an estoro, tho North point
of which is low and sandy. The wider ann runs 1 mUe towards the head of
the western branch of the Estero de Limautour, and Uttle more than that

* A'ew Shoal off Sau Francisco entrance.— li\ia» reported, January, 18G3, that a shoal had
been discovered about 80 miles 8.VV. from the S.E. Farallon. It is said to have hut from ;)
to 7 fathoms of water on it, and lies dii-octly in tliu track of vossuls bound into Sau
Francisco.

Shoal off the California Coast.— 'in latitude 'M" 2.5' N., and lonu;. 137° 30' AV., rocks are
reported having but from 3 to 5 fathoniH watir upon tlic^iu. This information was obtained
in 185.5, and failin>i:itt> nscortain anythini; more conccniiug it, it is^^now published to call
attention and invite lurtli' r Lxainination.

r/r\. - ijy^i!i

200 «AN FRANCISCO.

aiBtan.o from it. Tho ..tlw. arm runs nearly 1 1 mil. to tho "-tl-w..stwanL
Tho ri.l,.> fonuinK Tonml.s Point and tho wostorn «horo of fonMih. K.j
i. th.. noilhern oxtron.ity of that Btartinf. from Duxbury romt. About 4
nulos from the point tho ridgo i« 673 foot high, with Hbgl>ily 1"^- j^'-"-^
a few mile. South. It is whoro tho Hand dunoB strike th:s ndgo that tho
coast ohangos its charactor; thonoo to tho point it is bold and rocky with
broakors about ono-third of a milo ofl' tho point, and on tho P-l-S'^ ^ "^
tho ridgo, which averafe'08 leas than throo-iuarters of a milo an breadth for
the last 4 miles.

The BAY of TOMALES extends from Tomales Point S.E. i E. for I'iJ
.nilos, with an average width of soven-oighths of a mile The entrance is
narrow, and obstnicted by a bar having a depth of 10 feet, between sandy
humps of 7 feet. The bar lies nearly half a milo East of tho extreme poni^,
and 400 yards from the bluffs. It is exposed to the full force of the N.W.
swell, and with the least sweU from seaward it breaks across the whole en-
trance For 2 or 3 miles this bay is contracted, but has a naiTow doop
c.hannel close under tho western shore. Four miles within the^pomt hos
a smaU island near tho ndddlo of tho bay ; beyond it tho depth of water
becomes more regular.

BODEGA HEAD.-This point lies N.N.W. IS miles from Los R.^yes, and
forms the northern point of Uodega Bay, considering Tomales Point the
southern. The head is 200 or 300 feet high, with a slightly rounding summit,
and continues of nearly the same height for a mile or two noithward where it
changes to a broad sand beach, with low countiy near, but high hills in the
back ground. The face of tho land about here begins tochango from its unitorm
want of trees, to hiUs partiaUy covered. It has been frequently held out as a
warning not to mistake Bodega Head for Puutado los Reyes, but there exists
no reasonable ground for raising a question on this subject, although navi-
gators who have lost or jeopardised vessels offer as an excuse the great
similarity of the coast and headlands to those near the Golden Gate. We
have never been able to detect it. The highest part of the head is about 26o
feet above the ocean. From an examination of this section, it is behoved
that it is the continuation of the Tomales ridge.

BODEGA BAY.-Ffom Tomales Point to Bodega Head the course is
N W i W., and the distanc^e 4! miles. The average width of the bay to
the eastward of the above line is 11 mile, with the shore running nearly a
paraUel course. It is bordered by numerous rocks, is abrupt, and reaches
a height of 594 feet less than a mile inland. The anchorage lies between
the head and the mouth of the Estero Americano (caUed Avatcha by the
Russians), which lies E. 16= N., 2^ miles from the head. One mile West of
the estero a low narrow sand-spit H mile long, and covered with bushes,
stretches towards the head, within 100 yards of it, where a passage exists

liODEGA J5Ay.

201

orth- westward,
f Tomiil<!s Hay
int. About ^
y lower pronnd
ridg(> that the
lid rocky, with
prolongation of
3 in breadth for

E. i E. for I'iJ
The entrauto is
, between sandy
) extreme point,
roe of the N.W.
Bs the whole en-
a narrow deep
n the point lies
3 depth of water

1 Los K(3yes, and
imales l*oint the
rounding summit,
i-thward, where it
high hills in the
from its uniform
ntly hold out as a
a, but there exists
:t, although navi-
excuse the great
olden Gate. We
head is about 265
tion, it is believed

ead the course is
idth of the bay to

running nearly a
Drupt, and reaches
orage lies between
ed Avatclia by the

One mile West of
k-ered with bushes,
3re a passage exists

for the waters of the extensive lagoon North of the stind spit, having sniiili
and intricate channels, but almost destitute of water at low tides. The an-
chorage is half a mile outsidi! of this passage, and about N. J E. of tho
rocky islet, in .') or ft fathoms, hard bottom of coarse sand and small patches
<»f clay. It is prote(!ted by tho head and tiie low rocky islet and reef, about
three-quarters of a mile off tho S.E. face, from the full force of the N.W.
swell, which generally rolls in disagreeably in the open jtart of tho bay, if
tho weatlier is heavy. The reef is densely covered with kelp, and tho
breakers usually indicate its position. Between the islet and the head there
is a narrtiw 4i-fathom passage, opening directly upon the anchorage. In
coming from the N.W. in summer this channol is available, but in boating
out it is too contracted to be safe. During the winter season it is necessary
to anchor well out, to bo ready to slip and run, as the sea-room is very con-
tracted and the swell heavy. Some vessels have ridden out heavy south-
easters, but several have been lost. In beating out, tho only danger is tho
reef off the head.

On account of the general depression of the coast hills behind Bodega Bay
to about 500 or 600 feet elevation, and the valley in which the Jlstero Ameri-
cano lies, being perpendicular to the coast line, the summer winds draw in
towards tho Pctaluma valley with great force. Tho trunks of the oak trees
rise straight for about 10 foot, then bond almost at right angles, without a
branch for 10 or 15 feet, and tenninate in a clump of branches all draggfid
out by the force of the wind. Fogs are found drawing in sooner and more
frequently than upon any other part of the coast.

The country in the vicinity of the bay is very productive, both in the
valleys and upon the hills. The produce is placed in lighters at tho " I'ort "
or embai'cadero, about 1 mile within tho lagoon, ai^d carried by the current
to the anchorage.

A fine tract of agricultural country stretches bohind tho coast hills, ex-
tending from Eussian Eiver valley to Tetaluma creek, l;y which channel tho
produce of this region finds its way to San Francisco.

Fort Ross. — The rocky, contracted, and uui-afo anchorage off this place is
N.W. J N. from Los Eeyes, distant 32 miles, and 15 miles from Bodega
Head. The large white buildings of the Eussians on the rising ground, and
about 100 feet above the sea, are the only marks for making it, and tho
shore is so steep and guarded by rocks and reefs as to render approach
dangerous. No trade is now carried on here.* Tho shore between Bodega

• The property of the Russian establishment at Ross and Bodega had (August, 1841)
\m\. been transferred to Captain Sulcr, of New llclvotia, at t^an Francisco, for the consi-
flciation ot ;30,000 dollars. In the purchase wa': included all the Block, houses, arms,

.^,,2 «AN FKANCISCO.

„,,a and Fort RoHH .urves .liKhtly to thn .-.Htwurd c,f .ho lino joinin, tho

lireoking ttenlgh ft" ""»• 1""" "'"• „„,l„f.,lv iii-ro» t .. mouth of

Durmg tUo .ummer ,nm,tU. a dry bar form. .ompMoly «.r.« t

hT river. ».ha. the .»,cl along .ho c,.„.. r.«» -" ■'• J , "*' ™

;.,„, „i„. to „roa. t,„,„g„ ''-\::;7::^:;r^^^^^^^^^^^^^

..athor. ....ring . .o ^-^ [^^'^ Jj,. ». in that ,li.t.neo. I.otor,.
f„mUhomo,..h. a„d«nl» touM ., «^^ _^^^^^__^^_ ^l^_^_,^,, ^

Weaving ^-^^f^-'f.^" 'Stream, opening inte the E„»im,
Wd fertd. valley ^"^^ '""f,"^ j,„„ a et heavy redwood ;

':Z:Z::^Z TJi'.; ^IdJa along^tl,. »„. .» the .goen in.
::;l:Leganoad..,e.rr^.hoh^»-

r;t""\rra:tr%h".».».-^. -M»rr.«^

it the San Svbadian. ^^„ covered with

. vT v,«r„t It was unJurstood tliiit this post was
,,,„„„, „a„.*W.,on,in..^^^^^^

atodonod, bj ord™ o( Ita Kua»«» Uovt , turni.hed under .

,„y .....«.y .. hold it to pr.c«™ •">•'''« "■''!>;„8 it up .h.y .vuld many b«.y
c,mlr.»t.ilh the Uud™ D.y Compunyi .«<1 'y B>"»1. "

;:ZeT/r.r.».in.he.y»o,-^»^^^

„,„„p,i.gu,...«bli.h ;J""'""*'^"J":.La .0 de, .nd, h.™g b«,.me .•»

rj^reirby'lC- .r tl/b^be.. -red .re„.u uudi..u.bed

b„.„ u very e.u.idor.bl. ..pen«, '« " " ""^1 b... «i.,L«ou.. C.p.eiu Bufr
,li.po»l ot the whole, ou ,dm..t .a, '"""•'""■'"'' ^ ,„ ^i, „i.bli,h„,.,.l.

,„„l commenced r.n.evinB the .took, .»< '™f''''"« '''J""', J ,„„, „„,,„,„j. „„-

of the prcso.it owncr.-CW,»o.^/^'"..-^ t .6.-\. ->'""" ->

roiNT ARENA.

V!03

joinin(jf tin)
point of tlu'
•iilltul Salmon
nil and u half
, into the sett,
of 'i.'iOO feet
t J month of
. It loquiros
w»jk8 of (liy
iirgli, 30 miU'rt
iistaneo. IJoforo
u'd, through a
to the Eussiuu
eavy redwood ;
the lagoon in-
le river.

uenily watched

re to the north-

the same eddy

De Mofras calls

Us, covered with
t about halfway

d that this post was

ly no loiigor having

) furnished under a

avoid many heavy

mission of the then
A small number of
tased until the place
;hat on the Russiiir.s
Yerba Biiena), they
, having become too
) remain undisturbed

rgo of Bodega, it had
' to fortify it, and the
;eous, Captain Suter
his establishment,
thty frLqiKntly <oii-
ig up of the ist,ibli:h-
jniiiincil in Ih.; iu:pl"y
V. 17'J-St>-

to Fort Robs. The Russian vcssoIh used this as a distinctivo mark for
making that anthorago. Whore the timber commonros to skirt the coast a
bold spur of the mountains comes directly upon the sea. At Fort Robs there
is a small extent of open, cultivatod ground, modorattay low, but backed by
the high wooded country. Tlio coast and coast hills to the northward are
mostly covered with dense forests of immense redwood, pine, and a thick
undergrowtli. At one of the coast survey mountain stations over forty trees
were cut down that measured from 5J fuot in diamoti^r (spruce) to 8i foot
(redwood).

Two miles above Fort Ross is a small contracted anchorage, called Timber
Cove, where a great deal of lumber is sawed, and carried by coasters to San
Francisco. Eight miles above Ross is another contracted anchorage under
Salt Point, where coasters load lumber.

From Fort Eoss to Punta de Arena the coast is almost straight, running
N.W. by W. J W. for 37 miles. It is compact and abrupt the whole dis-
tance, covered with trees to the water's edge, and backed by an unbroken
ridge of hills about 2,000 feet high, and wooded to their summits.

Haven's Anchorage.— About 24 miles north-westward along the coast
from Fort Eoss is a contracted anchorage, under high precipitous rocky
islets, with a short stretch of beach on the main, affording a boat landing.
There is a protection, when anchored close in, against heavy N.W. weather •
but it would be very difficult to recognize the locality unless the position of
a vessel approaching it were accurately determined. Northward of this an-
chorage high, bold rocks line the coast for 4 or 5 miles. They are generally
known as Finhing Hocks.

A few miles South of this anchorage is the mouth of the JFalalk River,
open in the rainy season, but having a dry bar in summer. It rises South
of Fort Ross, behind the first range of coast hills. One of the coast survey
stations on the North side of the river, and 3 or 4 miles from the coast, has
an elevation of 2,192 feet, and this may be taken as the general height of
this coast range.

POINT AEENA.— This is the first prominent headland North of Los
Reyes, from which it bears N.W. J W., distant 67 miles. Lat. 38° 57' N.,
long. 123° 45' W. Approached either from the northward or southward, it
presents a long level plateau, stretching out about 2 miles West of the
highlands, and terminating in a perpendicular bluff, that averages about 200
feet in height, except the extreme N.W. part, which is comparatively low,
partially covered with sand, and destitute of trees for some distance inland.
When seen from the southward, with the sun shining upon the face of the
bluff, it shows remarkably white for the length of 2 miles. In fact, no
point upon +hc coast presents, such a bright appearance, or such uniform
vertical bluffs, composed of hard rocks, twisted and distorted into many
plications. Bold water is found close off the point, outside the kelp, which,

BAN FKANCISCO.
204 ,

.„,„ohinB ..rongly to .k^ »"ll.w»rf. -1— '"" »' -> ""■'"'"""' ""°''"'

Alout n ni.lo and a half N. By w i ^^^^

noticed l,y Vanc.uvor m October, 179X w ^^^ ^_^_^__ ^

bi«h .harp pinnade roA ••"-■ j;^ ™ ,' : ^wk.™ ,.U „„. beyoud
.he .mttaard, «tl, •°"« '"*';^;'';.°;„ '*,,, ai..an.o, ta .bore are
„,., «»,,«* W, ^;' J* J'^'J' VZ „b„„ Poin. Arena i. . .».»

' .; " t,7ot. - b.tw wiLn halt a n,Ue by MIU of i.C^O f.., covered
»,th a few troo", ana " ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ „ ,h^,

'"''rofT'M^*^!-:: r-"^^^^^^^ wi* .■..ebarc. apoHy

r?b::w.-—- - »r" t. ": r: -:-™■r
""li'^nmo'BAY -Twenty and a half mile, from Arena, and 4 above
MiMDOCISO BAY. iw I „ J Mondoeino bay, availablo

Albion River, i. « contracted ;">^»"'«'"'''°;„'» ,j^, „„rthem and

,orafewve..el. in «-^^-^^l '^ZZl T^^n. and the «..>..■„.
„,„thern ponta "•? ^j '/^ ;" "X; 'h, .outhem head are .everal .mall
rocks, and one large i ^^.^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^

Midway ^;;;-- ^:^;::',;^ this reof.

heavily with -^'T U^« 7;"- ^^^^ ^P,,,, ,!,,« to it. Into the N.E. part of
?r ""^'h^rWe r/on^o^^^ Grande, between 200 and 300 yard,
the bay ^ll''^\^ZnJon\^.e southern side, a broad flat sand on the
wide, ^'^\^'^^f'^^^ ^,^th with but a few feet of water, and upon
northern, and a bar at the ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ,„,ky. j, the

^-hich it always breaks, f \^^'';;" J ^^^f^^^ending from its centre,
.uth-eastern ^^ ^ ^;^T^^^^:^ L, that it is diihcult

The bay forms so sUght an .nde ^^^u.^ties, as there are no

, «i . j_y..^ .^i^;tt ' ^4t ' j,< .-' J:i' '

itive strongtb

viiUoy opens
idcrtttt'ly well
ral BiUoonera

\ roekH show-
Tliose woro
i off Arona a
the horizon to
ell out beyond
rom sbore aio
ena is » BDiall
rticleB iloatin^

orth-wostward,
sing Arena tbo
nts a low Bhoro
gh bluff shore,
000 ft., covered
im Arena is the
! havoBt apology
inducos toasters
havfc been lost,
roko hor anchor

ina,

and 4 above
Bay, available
he northern and

and the easit-rn
ire several small
e heavy breakers.
li the sea breaks*
around this reef.
) the N.E. part of
JOO and 30O yards
[ flat sand on the

water, and upon
ttd rocky. In the
from its centre.
3, that it is dilhciilt
es, as there ard no
lead is a tuble blutl

MKNDoriNo nAY-8nF.r,TKTf VOW.

305

about CO foot liiph, nnd dostitntoof troos to the northward and H..m«> dintanco
ill shoro. Tht> Smith bluff Ih lik.«wi»« deHtituto of tr(«(«8, but more irroguhir
in outlino thiin tlii« other. Vosbcls bound for it in Munmicr work a littlo to
windward; then run boldly in towurdn tlio N. point, upon wliith the lioum-s
bt>como rtii!o;;nize(l, koop us iIobo as possiblo along tiio HJioro, gradually
dccroattiug th.« ilistanco to 100 yards juKt o(f tlio .'outh end of the point in C.
fatlionis, run on about loO yards pu;,' tli<» point, licad up handsomely, and
anchor iu 5 or C fathoms hard bottom. It is a bad berth in summer, and in
winter a voHsel must anclior far enough out to bo able to slip her cable and
go to sea upon Iho first appearance of a south-easter, yovoral vessels have
boou driven awhoro hero.

An extensive saw-mill is located on the North side of the river some dis-
tance up ; formerly (1853) it was on tho North head, and a stationary ougino
was placed near the mouth of the river to draw loaded cars up the inclined
plane, whence they were drawn to tho mill. Tho lumber was slid down
chutes into large scows and carried to tho anchorage. Tho place is now
sometimes called Meii/gaville ; formerly it was Mendocino City.

From tho point just North of Mendocino Bay (the first one made from
Arena), tho shore runs nearly straight for 28 miles N. by W. i W., being
low and bounded by rocks for 12 miles, when tho black hills roach tho
water, and present an almost vertical front 2,000 feet in height.

From the deepest part of the bight tho general trend of the coast to Capo
Mendocino is N.W. J W., and distant 4.'J miles, and for the whole of this
distance it is particularly bold and forbidding, tho range of hills running
parallel to the shore and rising directly from it. It has been found impossi-
ble to travel along this stretch of seaboard ; and the trail turns well into the
interior valleys.

Shelter Cove.— From the compact shore above described a plateau, desti-
tute of wood, and being from 60 to 300 feet in height, makes square out
just above latitude 40° N. for a distance of half a mile, affording an an-
chorage from N.W. winds, and may perhaps be regarded as a harbour of
refuge for small coasters which have experienced heavy weather off Capo
Mendocino, and are short of wood and water, both of which may oq obtained
here from one or two gulches opening on the sea.

From Point Arena it bears N.W. by N. i N., distant 65 miles. The
whole sea-face of the bluff is bounded by thousands of rocks above and
below water, and vessels coming from the North for shelter must give it a
wide berth, rounding it within one-third of a mile, and anchoring in 5
fathoms, hard bottom, about one-third of a mile from shore. In this position
fresh water comes down a ravine bearing about North, and an Indian
village existed in 1853 at the bottom of the wooded ravine, a little further
to the eastward. There is always a swell here, and boat landing may not
be very easy.

200 SAN FRANCISCO.

PUNTA GORDA i« 17 miloa N.W. by W. A W. from Shelter Cove, ar.d
as it8 name implies, is a larj?o bold rounding pclnt. Half a mile off it lies
a large rockv islot, with rocks clo8« irshoro, North of the point. From
Punta de Arona it boars N.W. J N., distant 81 miles, and the Hue passing
tangent to Punta Gorda runs 1 mile outside of Cape Mendocino. La Perouse
calls Capo Fortunas Punta Gorda.

CAPE MENDOCINO is 93 miles N.W. f N, from Punta do Arena. Hero
the range of coaet hills from the southward appears to meet a range coming
from the eastward, forming a mountainous headland of about 3,000 feot
high, which is the western limit of the N.W. trend of this section of the
roast. The cape is in lat. 40" 25' N., long. 121° 22' W.

Blunis Bx)cks.-About 3 miles broad, off the capo, lies a reef, just under
water, known as Blunt's Eocks or Eeef, upon which the sea generally
breaks. This reef w as noticed by Vancoirver as being about 1 league off
shore Halfwav between it and the capo, and a little to the southward, h
a sunken rock, which has been discovered within the last two or three years,
but not yet accurately located. It is called FamtUroi/s RocL Steamers
have passed dangerously near it, and in 1857 it was distinctly seen almost
under the wheel of the steamship Comnwdor>'.. Vessels can perhaps pass
over it in smooth weather, but with a heavy sea the water must break.

To the southward, and immediately off the pitch of the cape, lie numerous
rocks and rocky islets, the latter being large and high, with a peculiar pyra-
midal or sugar-loaf appearance. None of them seem to be more than half »
mile from the shore, which is almost perpendicular, and destitute of a

The face of the cape is very steep, rocky, and worn. Above this the
general appearance is rolling, and the surface covered with timl>er. The
pyramidal islets off it are very readily distinguished in approac.hmg from tho

North or South. , . j •

Tlie LIGHTHOUSE on the W. extreme of Cape Mendocmo, completed m
1868, is an iron polygonal tower painted white, and 20 feot high, surmounted
by a red dome to the lantern. It shows a lens light of the first order, revol-
ving in every 25 seconds, showing a blight flash of 5 seconds duration. It is
elevated 380 feot above the sea, and may be seen 27 miles off.

Seven miles South of Mendocino a small stream, called the AlattoU, empties.
Upon the sides of the hills in Lower Mattole, and not above a mile from the
Pacific, coal oil springs were discovered in 1861. ."Uong the course of this
Btroam are numoroua bottom lands under cultivation.

CAPE FORTUNAS, or Falee Mendocino, lies northward of Cape Mendo-
cino distant 5 or G miles, and is another bold spur of mountainous headland,
Bimilar, and ahnost as high as that cape. Between the two the shore roi^edos
eUghtly, is depressed, and forms a beach, receiving a small stream called
Bear or Mc Dmald's Creek, coming down through a narrow valley or gulch.

—n-9^T'-!'^yr^"ixr

Iter Cove, ar.rl
mile off it lies
) point. From
;he Hue passing
10. LaPorouse

e Arena. Here
a range coming
i)out 3,000 leot
1 section of the

reef, just under
3 eea generally
out I league oiF
e Bontliward, i^
) or tlireo years,
Rock. Steamers
■tiy seen almost
in perhaps pass
ust hreak.
pe, lie numerous
a peculiar pyra-
[uoro than half »
d destitute of n

Above this the-
th timlver. The
oac^hing from tho

HO, completed in
ligh, surmounted
first order, revol-

8 duration. It is
iff.

( Ahttole, empties.

9 a mile from the
le course of this

J of Cape Mendo-
tftinous headland,

the shore reuedos
all Btrfcam called

valley or gulcb.

nUAfBOLDT BAY 207

Off tliis capo lie sevornl rooky islets, presontinp; the same pe(Miliaritips ns
thofw olF Mt'iidocino. There is n,, beach at tho face of tho almost perpen-
dicular sea face.

The vicinity of those hoadlands c(3r(ft;nly deserves a detailed hydrographio
and topographical survey. It is reported that tho 8(.undiu;j;s have been ob-
tained well to tho westward of tho cape ; should such prove correct, tho fact
will be of importance to vessels, especially steamers, bound North or South,
when near the coast and enveloped in fog, as it would enable them to judge
of their position, and change their cour.se. After passing it the shore
changes to a straight, low, sandy beach, with valleys running some distance
inland. Wo have ventured to call this Cape Fortunas, to avoid the repeti-
tion of Mendocino, and to commemorate Ferrolo's (the pilot, and successor
of Cabrillo) discoveries.

Eel River is a small stream, with a bar at its mouth, and distant 14 miles
from Cape Mendocino. It is very contracted and crooked, receiving tho
waters of a great many sloughs near its mouth, and draining a most fertile
valley, which is rapidly tilling up with settlers.

HUMBOIDT BAY.— The entrance to this bay lies 21 miles from Sugar-loitf
Islet, off Cape Mendocino; and tho bar N. by E., 22^ miles from Blunt's
Eocks. Tho bar is IJ mile from tho entrance between the sand points, or 2
miles from the S.W., and highest point of Red Bluff, which is the secontl
bluff above Eel Eiver. Like all the bar rivers on this coast, it undergoes
irregular changes, depending much upon tho prevalence, direction, and
Btrength of the wind. Early in 1851 it bore N.W., distant 2 miles from Eed
Bluff, and about half u mile from the beach of the North Spit. Three and a
half fathoms were found upon it, with a width of 2.50 yards between the 3-
fathoms curves, retaining nearly the same width, and running on a S.W.
course towards the blutT, but approaching closer to the North than to the
South Spit. When between the two the depth of water was increased to 1 i.
fathoms, suddenly shoaling to 4 fathoms inside. Vessels kept the North
Spit within 150 to 250 yards on the port hand for 2 or 3 miles after entering.
In tho faE of 1852 the bar was reported to have moved to the northward
its entire width, and the ranges for going in, as laid down by the survey of
the previous year, were entirely useless.

In 1857 less than 13 foot at high tide could be f'oimd upon it, and its ex-
tent was very much increased. Eventually a deep and narrow channel will
be cut through. About 1 852 a steam-vug was placed upon the bay, and has
rendered the most effective service in determining the changes of the bar.
When vessels are seen approaching tho bar, a Hag is hoisted on Eed Bluff,
and a tug goes out to take them in. If it is breaking so heavily on tho bar
that she cannot^get through it, and it is yet practicable for the vessel to run
in, she takes up a position and hoists her tiag as a signal for the vessel to

208 SAN FRANCISCO.

«teer for her. She i. invaluable in towing out tho d.oply laHen Inm-.ov

vcHsolB, as the summer winds blow directly in tho channel.

The LIGHTHOUSE is erected on the North Spit, throe-qt.arters of a rule
No^: onh!entrance, andahout midwaybetwoen theb^y and t,^^^^^^^^^^^^

It consists of a keeper's dwelling, with a tower namg 21 fee above the root,
f om tie centre, both being whitewashed, and surmounted by an .ron 1 n-
erTpafnted red. The light is a fixed white light of the fourth order o he
Zem of Fresnol. and illuminates the entire horizon. It . elevated 53 feet
above high water spring tides, visible 12 miles off.

The bay is situated immediately behind the low sand spits and dunes, and
extends 9 miles North, and 4 nnles South of the entrance, bemg contract, d
rillrhalf a mile in width between the South Spit and Rod Bluff; M

n rly a mile in width, with extensive sands bare at low t. es, ly.ng m.d-
" ay between the opposite shores, and running nearly parallel with th m.
Tthe Ithward lis average width is half a mile for a distance of 3* mUes^
It tten expal into a large shallow sheet of water, havmg two or hree
old channels through i' but the greater part being bare at low tu e,
showing extensive mud flats, bordered by a grassy flat nearly a mde m width,
nthe hall way close to the North Spit, not less than 3 Mlmms ^a^^ b
carried, increasing for three miles to 6* fathoms. One «^^1« N«rth of the
en^no and on the eastern side, enters a smaU stream, called^ A i^u. .
Two Zs North of the entrance, and on the East side, is situated the own
IfTi;iToff whichadepthof 3* fathoms ^^ jf ^J^^ .^^^^^^^^^^
the shore. Vessels are got alongside the Saw-mill Wharf here at high tide
to load ; at low tides they rest upon the muddy bottom.

ThemUitary station of Fort Eumholdt is on a reservation on the blufl
abit 1^0 feef high, and immediately behind the town. On the -me .d;
and 4 miles North of the entrance, is the town of Eureka, off which is a por
Ton of tL channel, having nearly 3 fathoms in it but no ch-e -^^^^^^^^
it having more than H fathom. The town was laid out before this a ter
fit was discovered. Vessels He at the whaxves, resting on the mud at low
.Abreast of Eureka lie several low marshy islands cut -P ^y^^-^^^
and ponds. The largest, called Indian Island, is about a mile long (N.E.) by
ha'f a ^le in width. It is marked by two hillocks, surmounted by clumps
flrnelr which were (1854) several wretched Indian hut. The smaU.
islands Ue between this and the eastern shore, and parallel with i . Areata
tme ly Uniontowu. is situated on the N.E. shore of the bay and can only
bleached by boats at high tide. It is tho starting point for the Trimty and

[>r8 of a nil©
e sea shores,
ove the roof,
in iron Ian-
order of the
vatod 53 feet

d dunes, and
ig contracted
led Bhiff; it
the eastward
le bay dividen
ma of water ;
le entrance it
)s, lying mid-
>l with them.
9 of 3 J miles.

two or three
3 at low tides,
milo in width,
homs may be

North of the
led Elk River.
lated the town
, 160 yards of
re at high tide

1 on the bluff,
the same side,
which is a por-
annel reaching
ifore this latter
he mud at low
up by sloughs
.long(N.E.)by
ited by clumps
ts. The smaller
pith it. Areata,
y, and can only
[• the Trinity and

TEINIDAD HEAD yVND DAY.

2()!»

Klamath mines. From it an oxteusivo wharf streti/lic^ far (nit over tlio mud
ilat, which vessels can roach at high tides.

The southern spit from the entrance to Table Bluff does not averngo one ■
quarter of a milo in width, is formed of low sand dunes and gra.'i.sy hillocks,
and bordered on the bay side by marsh. At the southern extremity rises
Table Bluff, which the name well describes, to a height of about 'JDO feet,
its western point nearly reaching tho sea beach, and forming a good land-
mark for making the bay. Five miles East of it the hills commence rising.
Abreast of the North end of the South spit rises Red Bluff, presenting to tho
entrance a perpendicular face, composed of sand and gravel, coloured by the
decomposition of iron ore near its surface, which is 96 feet above high water,
and destitute of tree or bush. The bay front of the bluff is about one- third
of a mile long, gradually declining to the low, flat laud to the North, and
also falling away to the South and East. On this bluff the pilots have a flag-
staff to range with known points of trees beyond, by which they cross tho
bar, and keep the run of its changes. The low land on tho eastern shore,
above Eed Bluff, averages half a mile in width, and runs as far as Eureka,
gradually changing to marsh, and bounded by plateaus and hills covered with
wood. The North Spit averages half a milo in width, and its southern ex-
tremity is composed of sand dunes and grassy hillocks, disposed in a marked
manner with the direction of the N. W. winds. Two miles from the entrance
trees cover tho hillocks, and run northward one mile, when a space of a mile
occurs without them. After that they continue along the slioro.

Mad River is said to empty into the sea about a mile North of Humboldt
Bay. It averages about 100 yards in width, with a bar at its entrance that
prevents egress ; but the vast amount of timber in the valley must eventually
And a passage through a canal to the N.W. point of Humboldt Bay. A
deep slough from the latter is said to approach quite close to Mad Eiver, thus
favouring the execution of such e project. This river is the Eio do los Tor-
tolas of Heceta and Bodega, 1775.

TRINIDAD HEAD lies N. J W., 17 J miles from the bar of Humboldt
Bay, and North 39 miles from Capo Mendocino. The low sand beach off
Humboldt continues past Mad Eiver to within a couple of miles of Trinidad
Bay, when it changes to a bluff, guarded by innumerable rocks. For tho
entire distance of the low beach a depth of from 10 to 15 fathoms may be
found one mile from the shore.

TRINIDAD BAY.— The bay or roaJ.stead of Trinidad is very contracted,
but having deep water, and all dangers visible, forms a moderately good
summer anchorage. The " head " forming the western shore of tho road-
stead, and a prominent mark when seen from close in, is about 373 feet high,
covered with a low, thick undergrowth of scrub bushes, has very steep sides,
and 8 fathoms close to its southern base. Off tho western face, fijr nearly
half a mile out, lie several high rocky islets, with one half a mile South (jf it,
North Pacific. ^

„„J

2,Q THE COAST OF OALIFORNTA.

tlu.bay,thoro.BaB ndb c^^^^^^^^^^^ 300 feet high, and cohered

In Ia™, into tUe anohoraBO, Wt in lold.y fast tho ou.a™«t «*,

deserted but a brisk trade is carried on in summer, xue . .
BarFtcisco by steamers is yet uncertain. The land - this vicinity .ve^
^h, and well alapte^ to agriculture. The redwood trees ^-^ ^^f ^;
and attain an enormous size. The stump of one which we moasuied wa.
aW 2 fe' 1 1 diameter, and a dozen trees standing in the viemity averaged
tTZll One is affirmed to be standing on the bank of a small stream
Jthe S.E. part of the bay that measures over 00 feet m circumference^ Tho
bakof these trees has a thickness of from 8 to 14 inches ; they grow pei.
fo^^ Lig> ^ retaining their thickness to a great height begin to n^^^^
at 50 or 100 feet, and frequently attain 250 feet in height. The fo eats of
this timber, when free from undergrowth, present an imposing .ight. ^

The shore nmuing N.W. by N. from Trinidad Head for 5 miles is re-
Jr^ablvtokon an'd rocky, which induced Vancouver to call it« nortW
Ttremity Eocky Point. He placed it in 4P 8'. About 1 mile oft it lie
several rocks that are sometimes known as the Turtles.

From Rocky Point the shore takes a gentle sweep -«^-«f ' jf "^^/^^
g,.eatest indentation at the North end of tho once famous Gold Bluff, in lat.

. Port Trinidad ..s .liscovoroa Jun. lOth, 1775, U Hocta and Bodega and iJacM in
,.t. iVT K. No.r it th.y plaa. a s,r..u., whi.h th.y cuU the li.o do loH lortolos. or
Pigeon River ; this is now callod Mud Kivtr.

r^msmm^'^^rr

'■-m

•d to the 3-
biglit to the

rocks lying
lorn part of
nee eastward

and corered
;ome promise,
ng is on the
the low neck

vessels lie to
if the shore.

itermost rock,
viththo knoll
yith the South

hard bottom,
eck visible to
neck showing
winter it is a
ler chances of
printer is nearly
)nnGction with
vicinity is very
[•ow around it,

measured was
cinity averaged
a small stream
inference. Tho

they grow per-
egin to branch

Tho forests of
ng sight.*

5 miles is re-
call its northern
. mile off it lie

ard, making its
old muff, in lat.

legii, and placed in
do loB Tortolos, or

KMMATH RIVER. ^U

i!?^'o:,^°^^'"^' ^^^^^' ^•' ^""^ ^^'"^ *"°^'°& ^•'^t^ard to Crescent
City. Gola Bluff has an extent of 10 miles, and is very bold and high.

Between Rocky Point and Gihon's Bluff, which is tho first one to the north-
ward, there is a stretch of low sand beach, immediately behind which is an
extensive lagoon several miles in length, and from a quarter to one mile in
width. It lies parallel with the beach, and at some seasons is not connected
with the ocean, but at others an opening exists at tho northern extremity.
The Indian name of this lagoon is .^E-sha^-sho-ran.

Bedding's Hock lies 5 miles broad off GoJl Bluff, in lat. 4V 21', and
long. 124^ 10'. It is a single, large, rocky islet, about 200 feet high,' and
reported to have deep water all around it, with no outlying dangers, but its
vicmity has not been surveyed. Vancouver planes it in lat. 41° 25' on his
chart, and 4 miles off shore ; but in the narrative states the distance at half
a league, and that it is half a mile in circuit. His track lies inside of it
We have been informed that a reef, commencing at the shore 2 miles above
the ^rock, stretches out towards it. The rock received its present name in

KLAMATH RIVEE.-The mouth of this river is in lat. 41° 33' N long
124^^ 5' W. It is perhaps 200 yards wide, having a long sand spit on the
bouth eide, running N.W. and parallel to the high hills that form the North
shore. South of the entrance for a mile and a half are outlying rocks, and
at the North side of the entrance lie several others. It is reported to have
2i fathoms upon the bar. Upon passing it in 1853, within less than a mile
the sea was breaking across it, and no appearance of a safe channel was pre^
eented. Small schooners enter it ; but we have been assured that the mouth
was completely closed in the winters of 1851 and 1860, and that the bar
changes with every change of heavy weather.

Three or four miles northward of the Klamath is a small sharp indentation
at the mouth of a gulch, off which lie one large and several small rocks-
but from a distance of a mile and a half, wo were unable to determine
whether any stream opened here. It has, however, received the name of
Fake Klamath, becauRO it has misled small coasters seeking for the Klamath
although there is no sand point on either side, as exists at the latter The
State map of California has a creek, called Ahmen, opening here. The coast
contmuos bold for several miles, when the hills begin to recede, and the
shores present many pleasant slopes, unincumbered with forests, and
now under cultivation. The shore is low, and regularly sweeps to the
westward for a couple of miles, forming the roadstead which will next be
described.

CRESCEMT CITY BAY.-This tho most dangerous of tho roadsteads
usually resorted toon tho const, has acquired much importance, on account
of the town (Crescent City) being tho depot for the supplies of miners work-
ing tho gold diggings on the Klamath, Trinity, and Salmon Rivers. It is

^Wmil ^' V ^ i ^ ' ^x a»!'*9:^Xf9^gf:^f^

THE (]OAST OF CALIFORNTA.

'212 . ,

1 „p» o„.l hna a Boodlv number showing above

pilot, or peri« b ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^]^^ g.^y. i

' .11 ^ ;+ oTirl 7 or 8 fathoms outsido ol the /isioio

of 10 fathoms exists all around it, and 7 o'' » ^^^" lighthouse and tho

rocks The usual anchorage is on a line between he l^ghthou^^
n1 side of the large islet, three-quarters of a mile East o t in 3i a

bearing S. 5& Jii. seveu oigi" ^ „, -nt >,v W \ W. for three-

,„d -200 yard, to .Uo 7"'":^^- ^^f^^^ "/.t. by tL mail a.a coaatmg

ea^yofflt^d r^ood ..atho. In »>u*..a.ta,. 4o b,eal.e„ ...h

°'ln Lmer too i. always »mo woU ho«. but in winter it «n. fearfully
.udnr:loboo»oa;.i.iontobore.d,toruntose.at tbo approacb

"'C^IlTn is maintained wiU. San Franoi.0 and other ports by
J :S "ating .toamere, which generally carry » may pa.senger, and
Tmu* treightL thi, place, a. they carry to the Celumb,a E„ r.

TrJwnLN.W. from the anchorage, immediately on the low .here;

The town lies ,5 4^ foundation for wooden houMB.

t^Cr-3,rreC::ou: .^.1.... . ^^^^^. i^^ --

the population was 553, and the number of houses 176.

The lands adjacent axe being cultivated; a grist mill has been built,
aud a gTod tJl leads to the "diggings" on the Klamath and Blinois

^ tITs W point of the bay is elevated about 25 feet, and continues so to
.> westward The lighthouse is erected on the rocky islet about 300 yards
to m t W and connected with it at low tides by a broken mass of rocks,

v^u (> nJnfflfi foot-bridge is constructed.
"ThImmHOTSE Li.' of a keeper, dwelling, of atone, the nat».l

colo" (B>oy), with a low tower of brick, plaBtered and whitewashed, nsmg

- i .W l j4 ' .JA.I I J i .. '! ,''J -

I'OINT ST. GEORGE— VEIilCAN RAY.

313

I wing above
e witliout a
)ck9 aro now
ash, S.W. 2
se. A depth
,f the visible
»U8o and tho
■ it, in 3i fa-
round rock,
pass it on the
V. for three-
)ck, which is
ts position is
close aboard,
r water on it,
anchor in 3 J
1 and coasting
id peculiarities
ly anchor close

inding is now
breakers wash

t rolls fearfully
,t the approach

other ports by
passengers and
, Eiver.

the low shore ;
wooden houses,
ptions. In 1860

has been built,
ath and Illinois

d continues so to

about 300 yards

ten mass of rocks,

tone, the natural
litewashed, rising

from the centre, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted rod. It is
situated at the S.W. part of the roadstead, on the seaward extremity of the
island point, which is here about 45 feet above high water.

The light is a fixed white light, varied by fashes, of the fourth order of
Fresnel. The interval of flash is 1"' 30". It illuminates 316-" of the horizon,
was first exhibited on December 10th, 1856, and shows from sunset to sun-
rise. It is 80 feet above high sea level, and may bo seen 14 miles off. It
is in lat. 41 44' 34' N., long. 124" 11' 22" W., und is N. by W., 79.i miles
from Cape Mendocino.

POINT ST. GEORGE.— This point lies 2 miles W. by N. from Crescent
City light. It is from 50 to 100 feet high, with table-land some distance
back. It is bounded by hundreds of rocks, some of which rise perpendicu-
larly 200 feet from the water. Three or four of the largest present a re-
markably white appearance, which serves to distinguish this point. The ex-
tensive reef in its vicinity may have led to confusion among tho old dis-
coverers by their confounding it with Cape Orford. The present name was
given to it by Vancouver, in 1792.

DRAGON ROCKS. — This name is applied to the rocks and reef extending
W.N.W. from Point St. George for a distance of six miles. The locality has
never been surveyed in detail, but a wide passage exists insido of the reef,
and is invariably used by the mail and coasting steamers, when entering or
leaving Crescent City Bay. There are ton or twelve outlying rocks, and
many sunken ones, with the passage running between tliem and those close
to the shore. This passage is about a mile in width, has 10 fathoms in it,
and the general course through is nearly N.W. and S.E., but not straight.
Among the multitude of rocks on the land side of the passage, are three very
large and prominent ones, about 200 feet high. It has already been stated
that several of the largest rocky islets have a well marked white appearance,
occasioned in part by the deposits of sea birds. The name of Dragon Kocks
was given to them by Vancouver, but the general name now used is
Crescent City Roch.

PELICAN BAY. — From Point St. George the coast runs straight for 12
miles N. ^ W., thence W.N.W. for 9 miles, forming a deep indentation,
called by La Perouse, in 1787, Pelican Bay, and by Vancouver, St. George's
Bay. For 8 miles from Point St. George the shore is low for some distance
back, and fronted by a sand beach to the mouth of a small stream culltd
Smith's Eiver. The entrance to this river we looked for in vain from tho
deck of the steamer, although scarcely 2 miles off shore, but we were able
to form a good estimate as to where it should open by tho peculiarities of the
northern bank, which was a low perpendicular bluff. Lat. 41° 54' N., long.
124" 11' W.

Half-way between Crescent City and the mouth of Smith's River, there is

y ii »! fliwai^*Lf : ■-■ -■ j ' i;

214 THE COAST OF CALIFOENIA.

a Bxna' sheet of water caUed Lake Talawa. North of this smaU stream the
Tt ai;^! aa elevation of about 100 or 200 feet for a short distance in-
land, and is bounded by high mountains. ,„,.r • A

which is destitute of timber.

I Btroam the
distance in-

ilifornia and
es the coast
the plateau,

C ••^15 )

CHAPTER V.

THE COAST OF OREGON, FROM CAPE liLANCO TO
ADMIRALTY INLET.

The Oregon Territory forma an integral portion of tho United States of
America, tho sovereignty having been acknowledged by the treaty of July
15th, 1846, between that power and Great Britain, and is that country
described in the present chapter, lying between tho parallels of 42° and 19°
North latitude, the former separating it from the State of California, de-
scribed in the preceding pages.

The actual right of possession of the Oregon Territory was tho theme of
long and angry discussion, and notwithstanding tho cession of the claim by
Britain to its present owners, it must ever be acknowledged that their right
by tho usual laws of sovereignty was indefeasible.

Tho N.W. coast of America, in this part, was first made known to Europe
by Sir Francis Drake, in his voyage in 1578, before mentioned, llo roached
the lat. of 48° N., and coasted southward to the harbour now bearing his
name. It was next seen by the Spaniards.

We shall not dwell here upon the much-disputed accounts of Do Fuca's
voyage in 1592, which will be mentioned elsowhore, nor of Martin de Aguilla
in 1603, nor of Admiral Bartolomeo de Fuente, or de Fonte, in 1640. All
these have been denied the merit of trutli, but there certainly would appear
some reason for believing a portion of the first-named narrative. The next
or really authentic account of any voyage to this part of tlio coast is from the
Spanish authorities. Ensign Juan Perez sailed from San Bias in tho year
1774, and after encountering storms, niaUc tho land on July IGth, in lat 54°,
tho South point of which was named Cape Santa Alur^urita, the land Lciiig
wliat is now called (luoon Charlotte's Island, and tlio capo, Cape North,
lie then made Nootka Sound, which ho called Port Sa.i Lorenzo.

The next, in March, 1775; was undur Captain Bruno Heceta, under wliom
was Perez. Don J. do Ayala has boon IrcMpioutly njmed as chief of the

rrr

OEEGON

1 ^r tlin fipcond V'hboI, t\w Sununt.

,y a .tor., llecota -7^;^^;^^; j::,:^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ it .- al«o called
Columbia, ^hi.l^ ho -lU^a t^;J^~ ^,,^^,,. yueh arc tho tir^t Spanish
1 loceta's Inlet iu Bomo subsequent hpanisn

""^"^'"'' n .r V Inft rivmouth on his last voyage, and after dis-ovor-
In 1770, Cnpt. (00k loft 1 ly mourn ^^^ ^.^^^

i„g the SarnhvLh Islands, iu January, 1778, he made
North of Cape Mendocino, proceeding no^h.ar^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^

From some notices given -l-;";f^^ ^;^^; ^^ region from China,
during Cook's voyage, some vessels httod out tor th g

,,e titst of which .as under Cap^n ^^ ^^^ ;^^;- ^^^^ ,,, Col.ett
IJorkeley discovered an mlet m 48 .in I ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^

„ C.,,tal„ Ci«y, »t t„o '«;';';;j'"; ;: i. ™e»,U.d by Yancouvo.

Captoin Sir Edward Bol'licr. IM tho Straits of Juan do

examined tho Ooln„.U« f'"' "'';;;» J^J C.;L Koi.ott, in 1»47.
Fuca, .fterwarf, more f ''° "^^^""^^^^^^^^^ s,at., tUat go,.rn-

But «n after tho tranrfer o the reg.oa to „„„i„„u„n l,oing

nrr;r::iL.---ror.jra:irrL^^^^^^^

i„ „any i..tanoe. loen cnfrely ""l^* »^^ «"' ^^ ^, „,, „„« State.

ir5£:irrr;r:rr* >i.M.oa.e..« n.»

eottlomon,., ''-'f ^'"t^L^ J^^^^^^^ alronid 1,0 divided. It

it .a. dotormmod "«" ''"■5^^;' ,^^, „„„,y Wore aUudod to stipu-

;T;LtTs^r«M?»"i'^'>»"^ o».n.vely to tho United S«e„
lated tliat aU ^"™ °' y^ „,,„ jo be open to botlr parties, and m-

the ■■';'6';''°'"''*'™"."„L„, either nation on either side of tho
domnification granted to seuitrs o

boundary.* ____^ ._— _—

*The oiigiii of Ihc uumc uu„ou

OREGON.

317

, thn Svnoni.
[ly loft a crosH.
ling aeparutetl
uiouth of the
mn nko called
lO tirst Spanish

after discovor-
oaat 200 milos

d on tho coast
in from China,
1787, Captain
3an and Colnott
roni the North,
tasit, or Claaset,

pd his discovery
:■ discovered tho
i by Vancouver,
r present know-
vas surveyed by
Expedition also
;rait8 of Juan do
Kellott, in 1847.
lies that goveru-
iamination being
ntly contii aed by
iiese surveys havo
earliest results of
tho United States
bouses which now

laving established
itions; but in 1846
iild be divided. It
i alluded to stipu-
the United States,
th parties, and in-
either side of tho

It is, ptrliape, lirel

Tho Cohunbia River and its valley is by far tho most intorostiiig and im-
portant part of Oregon, not only on account of the variety of soil, produc-
tions, and climut(!, but also from its boing the groat and only line of com-
munication botwoou tlie soa-coBHt and tlio interior. Tiio rivor is 7 )0 miles
long ; tliat portion in tho western section is 120 milos in length, and from IJ
to 5 miles in width ; it is navigable as far as tho Cascades, during its lowest
stages, for vossols not drawing raoro than 12 feet water. Tho tides rino and
fall above Y.mcouvor 80 miles from its nioutli, but they cause no change of
«urront beyond Oak I'oiut ; during tho freshets tho Columbia rises at
Vancouver l!) feet ahovo tho low-water mark.

The vulioj- of the Columbia, as high as the Cascades, is divided into high
and low prairies; tho latter arn not suitablo for cultivation, on account of
being ovorilown by tho annual freshets, but they are admirably adapted for
grazing-lands. Tlio soil of tlio upper or higlusr prairio is liglit and gravelly ;
it is well covered with pines, arbutus, oaks, ash, and ma[)!os ; and the hills
that border it aro generally volcanic.

That portion of the western section of Oregon North of the Columbia
which lies l>(>tween it and Puget's Sound is watered by several streams,
some of which flow into tho>^ Columbia on tho South, others into tho Pacific
on tho West, and othorw into I'ugot's Sound on tho North. These all rise
in the spurs of the Cascade Range, and drain this part of the country. Tho
land between tho Cowlitz and the Chiciiylis or Chickoeles Rivcris an ox-
tonsivo prairie, known as tho Cammas Plains.

The country from tho seaboard to tho Cowlitz is covered vith a dense
forest of spruce pino and hemlock. Tho soil is a brown or black vegetable
earth, with a substratum of clay. The patches of alluvial land bordering
tho Chickoelfts River are fertile, and of some extent, studded with whito
<iaks, and would yield good crops of wheat ; they are excellent sites for
farms, having an abundance of line water, and but a short distance from
water communication.

The country in the neighbourhood of Puget's Sound presents an inviting
aspect, and, with the exception of some bluffs, is undulating, and covered

found in fiomo travels in the interior of North America, in 1 "60-68, bj' Jonathan Carver,
pu1)liHhed in London in 1778. Ho does nut state his authority for calling tho river by tho
name of Origan, or Oregon ; and it has been supposed by some that it was an invention of
his own. It has also boon stated that it is from th Spaniards, from tho " orogano," or
wild marjoram (orii/anum, Lat.) said to grow on its banks.

Tho native names appear to be very incapable of being rendered into European ortho-
graphy. Their pronunciation is po very imperfect, that it is almost impossible to arrive at
any satisfactory conclusion as to the real names, and each voyager has represented tho
sumo word in very different forms, so that an absolute standard must not be expected.
tSir (joorgc Simpson gives some amusing instances of the imperfection of their powers of

»)iei.'i.'h.

CT-^SW W «.','. "i.'-l"'* '3=T

218 OUEQON.

.vith troc. of tho Hr-io« Hpokon of abovo. Tho Boil of this f..ro8t-luna in a
r n Itratum of Bandy vogotablo oarth. tho subsoil of clay and gravl

bv th rae^ prairio lands in tho vicinity of Nis,uallv, Mhieh arc vduablo
'« Iture a ds for ilocks of .hoop and dairy cows. Th.-so i« hav a
OB pasture m .ay airoction. and connoct with tho valley of tho

rf Itr With,. Uu. ai.ttic. arc „,m„T.m. l.mO. ... laW, ,ur,™-a«a by
"art of Oregon is betto, adapted for dairy purpe*. than tlu. ; and .beat,

-i:*;r::x-«;Xbof.becbie«^^^

'C J!:MrL'ail direetieo, fro. Mount O.yn.,™. leave but bttl. .,...0
f.wilWn except along tho wostorn side of Uood'sCanra.
"^di u ubltants, .bo are .oattered ia uumoro., tribe. threuB«
tbl^rrC are, it i. .uppoeed, rapidly <l»'«-iug ia number., rem theix
llCe^ U e! ad tboir rude treatment of di.e..... Tbe, aeted m m ny
. 7.. Iho allies and buntors for tbo »hite men setUed among them,
rrrotan oTo :i.ien bavo proved tb, treachery ef tbe wild m«>.,

'Tfte coast between Capo Mattery and Cape Lookout, and up the
OoLl to tbe arst rapids tbesia^U^
l^Zrloritr-tb^^dfrotappear to affect tbeir iutellectual

rSes and in the spawning season they ascend the Columbia and other
r ; 600 or 800 miles abovo the mouth. A singular fact occurs xn th.
Xuon ne variety ascends the Cowlitz, another the Columbia, another
2 WnUamotte, &c., L., that .hich is peculiar in one stream never ben.g
fnTn the other Wh n they are taken in the upper parts of tho nvors
ry Va^vot:!^::. and ans noLly worn off with the eiTect of th^^ ^^^ ^^
difficult ascent of these rapid streams, and are almost unht for food

The cimateof western Oregon is mild, having neither tho extremes o
heft during the summer, nor of cold during winter ; this is probably own g
to the prevalence of the south-west winds, and the mists which they bn ,g
with them from the ocean. The winters are short, lasting from Docon.be
roFebruTrv and maybe termed open, 8now seldom faUs, and when it

^''fS>'^i&<SM

5sr'r-frasS5^?"'

CnET-KO RIVER-ROOTJE'S RIVER.

'219

)8t-lund ia a
and gravt'l ;
,re Huccoetloil
aro valuable
lirioa have a
valley of the
Ivi by stripH
nrrouudod by
lorbago. No
; and wheat,

;woon rugot'a
I with a dense
ro. The high
ut little space

108 throughout
rs, from their
ictod in many
among them,
;ho wild man's

it, and up the
ing the Indians
)f nil acquire a
loir intellectual

on ; and in the
quantities being
I singular inlets
n is of several
mbia and other
it occurH in this
lumbia, another
am never being
rts of the rivers
of their long and
■or food.

the extremes of
I probably owing
ivhich they bring
g from Doconiber
ills, and when it

dooH, hists but a few days. Frosts arc, however, early, occurring in the
liittor part of AugUHt, which is accounted for by the proximity of the snowy
peaks of the Cascado Range, a mountain or easterly wind invariably causing
a groat full in tho tomporaturo. ThoHo winds are not frecpumt ; and during
the summer of 1811 they wore noted but a few times. Tho wot season
lasts from November till Marcli ; but tho rains arc not heavy, tliough
frequent. Tho ( limato during winter in not unlike that of England ; and
as to temporaturo, is equally mild with that of 10" lower latitude on our
eastern coast.

Chet-ko River. — Five miles from tho deepest part of Pelican Bay, and in
lat. 42' r N., long. 12 r 15' W. (both approximate), empties a steam, which
is from fiO to 60 yards wide at its mouth, with banks about 100 feet high,
and bounded half a mile in shore with very high hills. It appears deep and
sluggish, and in August, 1853, was completely closed at its mouth by a heavy
gravel beach. The anchorage off it is open and exposed from West to
South, with several reefs in and around it. No survey or reconnaissance has
been made. Wo found Indian huts in groat numbers upon both banks,
but most of tho Indiana were engaged higher up the stream in taking
salmon.

From Point St. George to an arched rock about 40 feet high, in lat. 41i°
11 ', the course is N.W. by N. 27 miles. The coast between the Chet-ko and
the point within a mile of tho arch is high, bold, compact, and bordered by
vast numbers of rocks, with very deep water close in shore. From this
the shore runs nearly N.W. by N. J N. for 40 miles to Capo Orford, making
a long gentle curve of 4 miles to the eastward, and being in general high,
abrupt, and rocky.

Eogue's Biver. — Within the long stretch just referred to is found the en-
trance to Rogue's River, in lat. 42^= 25' N., and long. 124" 22' W. (both ap-
proximate), having a long, low, sandy point on tho South side, and a high
steep hill, with two large rocks off its base, on the North side. It comes from
the interior between high mountains, and it ia next to impossible to travel
along its course. Just within the entrance, and on the North side, were
large Indian villages in 1853.* When passing it in moderate N.W. weather,
the sea was breaking heavily across tho bar, and this is reported to be gene-
rally the case. It has not been examined or surveyed, and the depth of
water on the bar is variously reported from 10 to 18 feet ; the former doubt-
less nearer the truth. Mc Arthur reports 10 feet on the bar, but that tho
channel is too narrow for sailing vessels to turn in.

Bogue's Biver Beef. — The rocky islets composing this reef aro not so large
as the Dragon's Rocks, and run more nearly parallel with the coast line.

* Tho name Roguc'a Uiver was given to it from tho character of tho natives. On the
aiaps it is cullod tho I'oiitouni! or Too-loo-ttUna or KlmiiH.

>ii5l5MEi^4;lS'^^»*(Vs2IK55'^

Sii;^' fl.<i"**'-^ '^^'fl-dW^*^

220

COAST OF OREGON.

The southern group of rocks lies W. J N., about 4 milos from the North
head of the entrance to Eogue's River, and stretches northward 3 milos,
where a gap occurs between them, and another cluster lying a mile and a
half off shore. Off this inner group lie several dangerous sunken rocks,
which must be sharply watched from aloft, when the soa is not heavy enough
to break upon them. As seen from the southward, the inside rock of the
outer group shows a perpendicular face eastward, and sloping back to the
West. The channel through this reef is perhaps a mile wide, bu*^ more dan-
gerous than any other on the coast. No Iiydrographic survey has been made
of it, and it is never used by the coasting steamers.

Abreast of the northern part of this reef is a five mile stretch of low sand
beach, backed by high, rugged, wooded hills, when the shore changes to an
abrupt and precipitous face to Port Orford. Many rocks closely border the
shore, and 3 miles South of Port Orford a high, rocky islet lies nearly a mile
off the base of the hill, about 1,000 feet high.

FORT ORFORD. — This is by far the best summer roadstead on the coast
between Los Reyes and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. From the extremity of
the S.W. point eastward to the main shore the distance is 2 milos, and from
this line the greatest bend of tlio sliore northward is one mile. The sound-
ings within this space range from 1 6 fathoms close to Ticlienor^s Rock, form-
ing the S.W. point of the bay, to 3 fathoms within one-quarter of a mile of
thi) beach on the N.E. side, wi+h 3 fathoms at the base of the rocky points on
the N.W. side towards Tichenot's Rock. One mile off the shores of the bay
the average depth is about 14 fathoms, regularly decreasing inshore.

The point forming the western part of the bay presents a very rugged,
precipitous outline, and attains an elevation of 350 feet. Its surface is
covered with excellent soil, and with a sparse growth of fir. From tliis point
the shore becomes depressed to about 60 feet at the northern or middle part
of the shore of the bay, where the town is located. The hills behind are
covered with a thick growth of fir and cedar.

The anchorage is usually made with the eastern end of the town bearing
North, being just open to the East of a high rock on the beach, in 6 fathoms
water, hard bottom, having a sharp, high point bearing N.W. by W., one
quarter of a mile distant, the beach in front of the town distant a quarter of
a mile, and three rocks just in the 3-fathom line E. by N., distant half a
mile. Steamers anchor a little to the eastward of this position, and closer to
the town in 4 fathoms. Coasters from the South in summer beat up clo^e
inshore, stretching inside of the outlying islets to avoid the heavy swell out-
side. Coming from the northward thw ; 3ep just outside of a higli rock one-
third of a mile off the western head, and round Tiehonor's Rock witliin half
a mile. In winter, anchor far enough out *o be ready to put to soa when a
south-easter comes up. During a protrai gale in December, 1851, a ter-
rible sea rolled in that no vessel could have ridden out. The old steamer

from tho North
rthward 3 milos,
ying a mile and a
iU8 sunken rocks,
not heavy enough
aside rock of tho
ping back to the
de, bu* more dau-
rey has been made

retch of low sand

lore changes to an

closely border the

t lies nearly a mile

itead on the coast
m the extremity of
i 2 milos, and from
mile. The sound-
hnor^s Bock, form-
iiarter of a mile of
the rocky points on
e shores of the bay
ug inshore,
ats a very rugged,
et. Its surface is
Lr. From this point
lern or middle part
lie hills behind are

)f tho town bearing
beach, in 6 fathoms
N.W. by W., one
distant a quai'ter of
' N., distant half a
osition, and closer to
mmor beat up close
the heavy swell out-
,e of a high rock ono-
jr's Eock within half
put to sea when a
scomber, 1851, a ter-
l, Tho old atoamer

PORT ORFOEI). 221

Sea G.ll was driven northward, and lost two wooks in regaini., her position,
and^the ma.l steamer Cola.lia hold her own for nnrny Uuv^oit ul Orford

The usual landing is between the rock caUed BaWo Rock, North of th« an-
chorago, and tlie point of rock close on its Wc.t side. A road i. out from
here up to the town, which consists of but a few hoascs. .Soa,otim.-. a laud-
ing zs made on the rocky beach a quarter of a mile w«,tward of Battl.
Eock, :n tho b.ght, where a sloping grassy bl.ff oomes to the water; but
th.s landmg . over a rocky bottom. A road is cut .p ^he slope to f,he site
of die m:ht,uy post of Port Orford, which is now abandoned

From Battle Eock the shore eastward is skirted by sand boach for I J
mile to a rough, rocky point, called Coal Point. About midway in thi
distance empties a small creek, whose banks are composed of a dopo«it f

of Battle Eock, and which has yielded as h.^h as 30 to 40 dollars per ,1iem
to each miner. Battle Eock was so named because the 6.n,t J^ont^Z
made a stand against the Indians on this rock in June, 1 85 1 C.,a^ pZ
was so named from the reported existence of coal in this vicinity

Several attempts have been made t<. open a road from this place to th.
mines about 60 or 70 miles eastward, but thus far without succeL 8 ver
parties have gone through, but could find no direct available route for pack
animals Up^n the opening of such a road it would become a large dlpo
of supply for the interior. In the neighbourhood of Port Orford are found
immense quantities of the largest and finest white cedar on tho coast, and
for some years a saw mill has been in operation, affording a small supply'^'
this lumber for the San Francisco market, unapproachable in quah?/ by
any on the Atlantic coast. The high mountain about 12 miles East of Port
Orford IS called PrU Knob. This bay was called E.in, IIarb^.r i, 1V5
byM<Arthur, but is now known by no other name than P^./o^W ^
Its proximity to Cape Orford. "^ °°^

It is high water in Port Orford (corrected establishment) at 11^ 24-
mean rise and fall 5-1 feet ; of spring tides 6 feet 10 inches ; neaps , fee 8

aboT; fm^il'e tred t Nor.' I'^o rOrf^^; '''"^ "^"^"^ -''-'
l.,„.ji :,, •" "™ ^""' "no™ : 1' u composed of n vorv

broad I„o,o ,aod beach, „aclod b, a long „„if„rm M„d rid J of ,0, bI
he.6 , colored rth gra„, fe„, .al,al bush,,, and . few It, wh o h °
th,. .he BTound fall, and form. lagoon, and m,r.ho,. Thi, rid ' olmk
^ly .o tto mouth of a ,.r,am called m M>„r. n mi,., flm ^il w
Eock. Th,, narrow elroam, fordablo at it, month at low tide., come, fir
Mde. through broad mareho, covered with fir and .h.to cedar, andrrml.;

Tf i MlK aw J i mrigrfc 'W i inim-;w Hi

222

COAST OF OEEOON.

impenotmblo undorgrowth. Tlie South sicle at the mouth is low, sandy,
and flat ; the North side, a slope risinj^ from tho marsli inshore, and termi-
nating on tiio beach in a perpendicular bluff, averaging 100 foot high,
covered ^^•ith timber to its very edgo for a couple of miles, when tho timber
retreats some distance inland. The face of this bluff exhibits vast numbers
of fossil shells in tho sandstone. At its base a sand beach exists which may
bo travelled af low water.

CAPE ORFORD or BLANCO.— Tn making this cape from the northward
or southward, it presents a great similarity to I'oint Concepcion, appearing
tirst as an island, because tho neck connecting it with the main is compara-
ti»»*ly ir)»w, flat, and destitute of troos. with which the cape in heavily covered
to the ftdge of tho cliff. It is perhaps over 200 feet high, but the trees upon
it make it appear at least iOO feet more. The sides aro ver}' steep, and worn
•way by the action <>i' the sea, showing a dull whitish appearance usually,
bwf. bright when 'ho sun is shiatAg upon them.* At the base aro many
blade rr)cks and lodu i'^s stretching o«t to form the inner part of Orford lieef.
In the bond south-tast of the cape rists a high, largo, wiiigle rock, about
loo yards from tho boach, The approximate geographical position of the
cape is, lat. 42° 50' N., long. 124" 30' W., being thus tho most western part
of the main land until wo reach lat 47° 50'.

ORFOSD BEEF. —About 4 miles off the coast, between Port and Cape
Orford lies a group of rocky islets and sunkes rfwks. There are seven largo
high ones within an area of 1 square mile, with small ones that are just
awash, and others upon which the sea only break -i in very heavy weather.

Tho douth-oastem rock is called tho Fin Ib'fk, and has a perpendicular
face io the S.W., with a sloping surface to the N.E. Near it are several
low black rocks. The Fin Kock lies W. 4 N. distant 4^ miles from tho
western point of Port Orford, and the general direction of the six others is
N.N.W. frara Fin Etxk. West from Port Orford, and distant 4J miles, is
a small black rock, and near it a smaller one, uj^on wliich the sea breaks
only occasionally. W. by N. i N., distant 4| mil s from Port Orford, lies
the lai'gcdt of the seven islets, rising up with high and nearly perpendicular
sides. On the .<arae course, and a mile and a quarter further out, is a small
rock, and halfway between ihem a rock awash. This is the northern limit
of the group.

Htretching S.S. W. for a mile and a third from Capo Orford are numerous
rocky islets and sunken rocks, with largo fn^ds of kelp ; hut ceasing at that
distance a passage is left I^ mile wide between thom and the northfiru isletg
oS the other group. The course through the middle of the passage, clearing

* It w,aa named Cape Dlaiuo on tho old Spanish ni.ips, from the assertion of Ant/mio
Fl'/i'i a in 1C03, but tho nunui Cxpe Orford wap j;ivoii \<\ Vancouver in 17'.)2, in honour of
his mucli rcdpoctcd friend the njblc E;irl (Georges) of tfi-.it title.

T-^rara

low, sandy,
, and termi-
5 feet high,
I the timber
ast numbers
8 -which may

16 northward
n, apiioaring
1 iis compara-
lavily covered
ae trees upon
sep, and worn
auce usually,
aso are many
Orford lieof.
) rock, about
osition of the
t western part

'ort and Capo
re eevon largo
that are just
,vy weather,
perpendicular
it are several
iiiles fi-om tho
e six others ia
nt 4i miles, is
the sea breakt;
rt Orford, lies
' perpendicular
out, is a small
northern limit

are numerous

ceasing at that

northern islets

iHsage, clearing

icrtion of Antfmio
U'J2, in lionuur ot

COaUILLE EIVER. 223

tho rock called Rlooqueh, off tho western point of Tort Orford, fs N W by
VV., with 1 iatlionis rocky bottom on tlie slioalost i>art of that line

Tins passage is in constant use by mail and coasting steamers, but tho
hydrography of the reef has not yet been executed, and only a prehminarv
examnrnfon of the position of tho outer rocks. Although the general trend
01 the southern grotzp is N.N.W., it is very probable that they aro a con-
tmuation of the reef making out from tho capo.

One mile North of Cape Orford empties a small stream having a -^reut
number of rocks off its mouth. In 1851 it was usually called sL Miver,
tho Clunook "jargon" name for friend. On some maps wo find a stream
near th,s ocahty cailed Sequalchin Eiver. The village upon the Sikhs i.
cailea le-clieh-qnut.

Ten miles North of Cape Orford La Porouso places a cape called T.^^,,
In. no headland exists between Orford and the South head of the Coou.llo'
^t:^^ ""^ ''-' '-' empties upon the eoa.lbou;
General Features.-From Cape Mendocino the hills upon the seab .rd
range from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high, running parallel with the coast nt a
distance of from 3 to 5 miles, receding somewhat at the Eel Kiver Valley

The whole face of the country h covered with dense forests, and offer,
almost insuperable obstacles to the openiug of roads intended to strike the
trail leading along the valleys of tho Sacramento and Wallamut

Northward of Cape Orford the appearance and nature of the c^ast assumes
a marked change Long reaches of low white sand beach occur, with sand
dunes, broken by bold roc'.y headlands, and backed by high irregular ridges
of mountains. On the sea-face and southern sides of many of these promi
nent pomts no timber grows, and they present a bright liveJv gi-een of fern
grass and bushes. The general altitude of the mountains appears tho samo
as to tlie southward.

COaUILLE EIVER. Erom Cap. Orford to the mouth of tho Co,«ille in
!at. _4.V 7 the coa«t runs exactly Nortli fur 17 miles, with a sb-ght .urve of
a mile and a naif eastward, and a short distance North of Orford, consists of
a low sand beach, immediately behind which are long shallow lagoons
receiving .he water from the mountains, but having no visible outletl th^
.ea. Along ttiis shore the sounding, range from 7 to 15 fathoms at a dis-
tance of a mile.

wVW.h'v 7'"*."^*^V-^''^'»'^ 'othis river is a high bluff headland,
whilst the North point .« a long, low, narrow spit of «and, overlapping as it

under i ,18.,>1). A short distance otF it lie several rocks, but not of
the W '''' '' '^' ''''''''^ ''''^^ ^^'"^ ^"''^' continually acroea

— rriTTniiiaiirirr^"^

■mrtrB-»

224

COAST or OREGON.

About >5 .ii« fto. it. „outH tw ■• ;p°*«;;/;,',™ ';' ,:r'l, ,„.

The tydrograpWc re«,mna,.»an» of tto mor m y i„^„,.,i„.

,ey .how. ooly » foot of wat» o„ o W,, ■ -r ^^^^^^^ ^,. ^^^^_,^

,„, ,e,eel, of o,d,„a,y drauglt^ i - No U J. __^^^^^ J ^^ ^^.^^ ^,_^

iLfrZentr ;:t :«:: .ou...o.n „.aa, ... no«. of ..o .*

"?hoappr„»mat« po.ition of it. ..trance is, lat. 43- T N., long, m'

'*r»PE OBEOOEY or toso.-Bclweon the Coquillo River aod tU. head-
CAPE OKEOOai or fli.B . ^ .outliem part of

,a„d.-.Ead another '«" """j" , l"!;,, „ttaining perhap. .,000
Oregor,, .h.A r,». up ""^ P "^^P''™^ ' _, „„„ „„„,„a f„, 3 or 4 mil..,

point, about 60 feet high -^ I»«'^;^ e N Iflr 2 raiL, t« the entrance

:;r.hrdi.iL^...— j;--^^^^^^^^^

^LX^:^ rKoltrtcf. .he .pe .ay ride out hea.

S.E. galos. g.^ j,^^,^,,;, Drake's

j;irB:re^r:sL^^L^.t^^^^^^^^^
c::r*i:--«-""^^^^^^^ .4.30.

nLa./whyCa,.nnCo*

r ;:r ST— rCfro. th! .a . a tol.rab. ..., and

^rH-^^-o^roiC^lg^^Tp^r^^^^^^^^

the "a"*""" = J , J „„ J ,„,aU idand at tlie western

„.t^ on 7'-^;;' ;;i';.,„,f„l h„u.o being near it, at the South
t^rrLir'rL tow::'is of iron, p.in.ed whit,, and showing a /..

riiXhtvat-ied by aA».* and ^^^^-^^T » riZ^m-
I minute. ; elo.ated 75 feel, visible 15 m.l.. off ; lat. 43 20 38 , long.

"'it'u «n..lime, died by tL. recent appellation of Arago which ha. been
adoi^o" the coast .urvey chart,. It i- known by both on the western

"■kOOS BAT.-Ncarly i! miies E.N.E. of the northern extremity of Cape

variotios of

banks from
d diistroycd.
Koos Eiver.
lO Coast Sur-
i inaccf ssible
•tfh of dreai-y

omity. The
I of the rocka

r., long. 124°

md this head-
ithorn part of
perhaps 2,000
>r 3 or 4 miles,
perpendicular
) action of the
to the entrance
iW8 a couple of
' shore, sound-
informed that
ride out heavy

^rancib Drake's
, affording that
thenN.W., as

3 in lat. 43" 30',
remarkable by
ble height, and
43° 23'.

was first illumi-
d at the western
it, at the South
L showing a fixed
duration, every
)' 38", long. 124*^

which has been
I on the western

ixtremity of Cape

KOOS BAY. 22.'.

Gregory is the wide and well-marked entraiuo to Koos Bay. Tho SoiitJi
point, named Koos Head, is liigh and bold, being the base of tho hilk
forming the cape, whilst tho North point is low and sandy, with shifting
sand duno3 that roach 100 foot in height. In 1861 a narrow channel cut
across tho North point, forming a tolerably large island, which was wa.shed
away before tlie close of tho season. Such changes are constantly taking
place, and involve changes in the bar and channel. The points lie nearly
North and South of each other, and about throe-qnarters of a mile apart
Tho bar (1861) lies N. 62° W. 1 mile from Koos lload ; N. 35° E. i; niilo
from Capo Gregory; and its width between the 12-feet lines on tho North
and South sides is only 150 yards, with a maximum depth of 13 feet.
Thence tho channel, increasing in width, runs .sfrniglit to the North tangent
of the head, with 10 fathoms of water at that point. In 1853 and IS.Vl a
depth of only 9 to 9 J feet could be "ound on the bar. During the working
season of 18Si the barmovod to noi .ward, thus indicating groat changes in
this as in all other river bars on the coast. Vessels enter and leave o°n tho
flood-tide, because the bar is smoother ; with the ebb there is a heavy
break, unless the sea be remarkably smooth. The currents run very
strongly, as might be supposed from the extent of the bay and size of the
channel.

TrafEc is drawn hither by the mining of lignite, which is carried to the
San I'rancisco market ; it has been found unfit for steampship eoasumption,
but is used for small stationary engines and domestic purposes. The
geology of the country does not give promise of coal. A tug-boat is em-
ployed at the entrance for towing vessels over the bar. Tlie saw-mills on
the bay turn out about 15,000 feet of lumber daily. Koos H- ad is in kt
43° 21' 4" N., long. 124° 18' W. High water at IP 26- springs rise 6.8
feet, neaps 3.7 feet.

The bay is very irregular in outline, and its general shape is like the
letter U, with the convexity to the North. One Bmall branch stretches
southward behind Koos Head ; it is called the South Slougli, and has but 2
or 3 feet of water in it. North of the entrance the bay proper begins, and
has a good depth of water. Abreast of the North point the width is 600
yards, and the depth from 3 to 7 fathoms ; thence northward it increases in
width to nearly a mile, and runs very straight on a N. by E. .i E. course.
The channel runs on the eastern Eide of this part, the western* half bemg
filled with sand flats and shallows. A sunken rock called the Fearless Eock,
is on the eastern side of the channel, abreast of the upper part of tho rocky
shore. The whole length of the bay is behoved to be about 25 iuil,..s, tlie
head of it bein- a little farther South than tho entrance. Koos liiver
empties into the head of the bay, and will give passage to boat,s for 20 miles
from its mouth, where a smaU slough that empties into the CoquiUe River
North Pacific.

220

roAST OF OTJEUON.

iB so near as to loavo a portago of only a mile and a half between tho two
waf'Ts, and al.out 15 miloB from tho mouth of the CoqulUe.

Exooptin- the peninsula, which forms the western shoro of tho hay North
of tho entrance, the entire country ia an immense forest of various kinds of
],ines No land for cultivation is found without clearing, and even on tho
Koos River tho bottom lands, which dford excellent soil, have to be picaved
of tho thick growth of laurel, maple, and myrtle. Tho coal mines are beyond
the groat bend, near the head of the bay, and on the western side.

Tho name Koos is that approaching nearest the Indian pronunciation of
tho word. On some maps we find a small stream called Cahoos or Kowes,
emptying just South of Cape Gregory.*

UMPttUAH RIVER.— North of Koos Bay to the Umpquah Eiver is
another straight low sand beach, with sand dunes, backed by a high ridgo
„f hills densely timbered. The shore runs nearly North, presenting a very
white appearance when the sun shines upon it, and having from 10, to 15
fa.iioms of water 1 mUe off the beach. The southern point of the entrance
to the river is a marked spur of the mountains from the S.E., and is bor-
dered by sand dunes. The North side of the entrance is a long range of
IV h.te shifting sand hills, running with the coast for two miles, and suddenly
changing to high rocky hills, covered with wood. The river is the largest
stream entering the Pacific between the Sacramento and Columbia rivers.
It is 51 miles N. i W. from Cape Orford, and 21 miles North of Cape
Gresiory. The lower reach of the river is long and narrow, running nearly
North for 6 miles ; bordered on the South side by a rocky wooded shore,
on the North, for 2 miles, by loose sand-hills, changing, after the first mile,
to sand sparsely covered with coarse grass, bushes, and fir, and in 4 miles to
steep, high, rocky banks, covered with largo trees. An immense fiat, mostly
bare at low water, stretc^ics South from the North point to within 300 yards
of the South side of tho entrance, through which narrow space runs the
channel, having f 1S.03) a bar with only 13 feet upon it, and less than 100
yards wide. From the bar tho point of bluff just inside the entrance bears
N.E. by E., aad is distant U mile. About 1851 or 1852 two range marks
were placed on the South shore for running in by, and they are frequently
referred to as data by which to trace the changes of the bar, but the captain
who erected them has asRurod us that the bar was not on their range, but to
tho soutliMiird of it.

JJmus for cromng the bar. -In January, 1853, it was announced that the
bar had been marked by buoys. Two third-class nun buoys, painted white,
with white and black perpendicular stripes, are placed in lino with the light-
liouse, which bears from them E. by N. I N. The inner buoy is just within

' 'l-ho word KO..H s^i-nifies in tho Too-tBO-tan languofto r. lake, lagoon, or landlocked
l.av. Dullut di: MolViis vei y amiii-iiigly tran>;atci- it K. d^ Vachcs (cows river).

reen tho two

le bay Nortli
iovis kindfl of
even on tho
to ho p'ieaved
OS aro heyond
Ido.

munciation of
308 or Kowes,

uah Eiver ia
T a high ridgo
senting a very
'rem 10, to 15
I the entrance
1., and is bor-
long range of
, and suddenly
• is the largest
lumbia rivers.
J^orth of Cape
•unning nearly
wooded shore,
r the first mile,
d in 4 miles to
nso fiat, mostly
ithin 300 yards
space runs the
less than 100
entrance bears

range marks
r are frequently
but the captain
ir range, but to

)uncod that the
, painted white,

1 with the light-
oy is just within

goon, or landlocked
s river).

nECETA RANK. ^,7

fathoms „M1,„ ! . ""^'' ^""y '«J"«t*>"tsidothobar, in 10

lainoras at tlio same stasre of tha HAa ^.,a it . » i"

hand K-nn^- .u . , ' ^^^ "^^^ '^'^^ ^0 passed on either

A liffhthousc was erected on the Sonfh sirlo nt *^.^ i.
bea^ .hich is of shining sand. S ^ ^ ^fi^^::: i ^1^ b"
Amoved "'"^ '^^'^''''- '' ^- -^ «^-^ -^-^- *^'-ower, .e i was

Fronx the bar the lighthouse bears E.byN^

the pot o^' hi f^^ tr* "'. ""'"" ^° *^^P^'^ ^^''^ '^^ ^-*'--^ to 13 off
the So .1 -^ , "* '^ ''^'^ '^^^^'"^ °f *^° -"d beach and bluff on

Ltlmed this ""^ "/"'"'"'' -^^-'^«P-tion been accurately
aete,n,ined. It has deep water around it. From the point of bluff vessels

ttrd rr : T '' ^*"'^ *'^ ^^^* '''' '' *^« N-'h point about „
third of a mile from its extremity, then haul across E.N E. to the other

a flat and rocks m mid-river, and bearing E.N.E. from the South end of
the Nor^ po.„t, and North five-eighths of a mile from the point of Wuff on
the South side. The small indentation of the shore-line on the rigl^ after
making tho first stretch from the point of bluff, is called Winche!te Bav
having no .ater and being but an extensive mud-flat. Three mi„J:

ndislleT"^"'""'^"^"^^ Half a mile wide, then expands to a i^^
and IS fi led with numerous extensive sand and mud flats. Five miles from
the lighthouse it bends sharply to the eastward

This river is said to drain an extremely fertile reuon, abounding in

prairie land, well adapted to agriculture and grazing, lies C rmentl 3

a pine tree discovered in the Umpquah valley meLiring 216 fe7t Tt

owest branches, and being 57 feet in circumference. The Indian name fo

h nver below the rapids is Kah-Ia-wat-set, and to the upper pa they

apply the name Umpt'quah. ^ ^ ^

From the Umpquah the coast runs in a remarkably straight line N. by

L u ^°"* °' *^' ''''''''"'' *« ^^« Columbia Eiver, in no

case^ varying mere than 3 miles eastward of the line joining these tl

HECETA BAJIK.-N.W. by N., distant 66 miles from Cape Orford is
the southern end of a bank extending parallel with the coast L 30 m ie
and a ou the same distance from it. The least depth yet discove edT :
Ui. 43 f^ithoms. aiul the nature of tho bottom very variable, there beL
blue „.ud, coarse blue sand, coral, pebbles, gravel, mud, and sLlls. (T t
mg vessels have often reported passing over localities having a heavy sweH

9 . ' 9 K »' ^' >->t<3V. m» fJ i k^*^ ■»

208 COAST OF OIIEGON.

upon thorn, and one frequently so reported near the Umpquah led to the
examination whieli discovered this bank, When Heceta was upon this
coast, and in this vicinity, he said, " On Sunday I found great differences
(of depth) at 7 leagues. I got bottom at 80 fathoms, and nearer the coast I
sometimes found no bottom." Should a thorough examination of his disco-
veries here satisfactorily show that ho did really cross this or any yet undis-
covered adjacent bank, it would be a tribute to his explorations on this coast
to apply his name to it.

CAPE PERPETUA. —After leaving the Umpquah 2 or 3 miles, a bold
rocky coast, with high steep hills covered with timber, runs straight for
about 8 miles, changing to low sandy beach with sand dunes, backed by a
high ridge of hills. This continues for 15 miles, when the hills stretch out
to the shore and crowd upon it for 13 miles, to end abruptly in steep bluffs
forming Cape Porpetua, which is 39 miles N. by W. i W. from Umpquah
li-ht, with an approximate geographical position of lat. 44° 19', longitude
I'M'' 6'. The face of the cape is nearly 5 miles long, with very slight
projection from the straight trend of the shore. It is very high, and
has a regular though steep descent to the shore, bringing the trees tf. its
very edge.

From the Umpquah to Cape Perpetua, at a distance of a mile from the
shore, soundings are laid down from 8 to 14 fathoms.

This cape was named by Cook in 1778, and by bearings placed in latitude
44° 6'. Vancouver, in 1792, gave its position in latitude 44° 12'.

To the northward of Perpetua the coast range of hills is cut by numerous
Talleys, through which flow many small streams to the ocean.

Yaquinnah River.— Nine miles North of Perpetua is the mouth of a
stream behoved to be the Yaquinnah. It is said to expand into a bay, 3
miles long by H wide, running nearly East, and very much contracted at
the middle, where a small islet exists. The South head to the entrance is
formed by a spur of the hiUs from Perpetua. The North point has likewise
a bold head, with a low sand-spit stretching South half a mile. The en-
trance is in lat. 44° 27' N. (approximate). The names of the streams hence
to the northward are very conflicting, and will continue so until a land ex-
ploration is made along the seaboard for determining their pecuharities and
the latitudes of their mouths.

Celetse River.— North of Perpetua the shore continues straight, high, and
bold, for 5 miles, when a cluster of rocks occur, and the blutf changes to
low sand beach, running nearly to the mouth of a small stream, about 5
miloB South of Cape Foulweather, called the Alseya on the coast survey
reconnaissance of 1850, and the Celetse on the original sheets of 1853.
This name is the proper one. The North head, which is bold, has a rock
close under it. Thence tiie shore is low and sandy to Foulweather. The

AMI

ih led to tho
as upon this
at differences
Br the const I
of his disco-
ny yet undis-
j on this coast

miles, a bold
.8 straight for
1, backed by a
lis stretch out
n steep bluffs
■om Ump(iuah
' 19', longitude
th very slight
ery high, and
he trees to its

mile from the

iced in latitude

12'.

it by numerous

he mouth of a
I into a bay, 3
h contracted at
the entrance is
nt has likewise
mile. The en-
i streams hence
until a land ex-
)eculiaritieB and

■aight, high, and
blutf changes to
stream, about 5
the coast survey
sheets of 1853.
bold, has a rock
lulweather. The

CAl'E FOULWEATIIER. j.-D

country in the interior i. very broken and mountainous, and cuver-ul with

CAPE FOULWEATHER.-From Perpetua to this cnpe the soundings
range from 7 to 12 fathoms about a mile from shore. The cape is in lift

Ian,] U \ T"'^' '''° '' ^'^'''' *"^ ^^™« * l"'g^ I'^ld head.

and h t ^ T^ -V ' ^'"""^ ""' '^^""' ^'^^^ '' ""•« ^-- the low beach,
and backed by l„gh mountains. It is covered with wood, and has sov.ra
small rocks on us 8,W. face, with one rocky islet a mile from it. To Z
northward of the capo are three rocky islets standing a short distance from
the low beach, and readily distinguished by being projected ngaiast it.

This cape was named by Cook on the day he made the coast, March 6th.
1 778, but the point of the headland is not that referred to by him. At noon
he was m latitude 44'' 33', and the land extended from N.E i N to S F
by 8 about 8 leagues distant. In this situation he had 73 fathoms over a
muddy bottom, and 90 fathoms a league furtlior off shore. Tho land he
describes of moderate height, diversified by hills and valleys, and principally
covered with wood. No striking object presented itself, except a high hill
with a flat summit, which bore East from him at noon. This may have
been what he subsequently called Cape Perpetua. At tlie northern oxtren.e
the land formed a point, which he named Cape Fonlweather, from the ex
ceeding bad weather he met with soon after. The expression "northern
extreme has led some geographers to place the cape as high as lat. 45r
but he judged the Foulwoather he named to be in 44° 55'. Being hero
driven off the coast by continued bad weather, he had no opportunity to
verify his position, and did not sight the land again till in lat 47^5' thus
passing by the entrance to the Columbia. Vancouver places it in lat 44^ 4.)'
15oth of these determinations evidently refer to the northern part of the
liigh land. ■^

Nekas River.-Soon after passing Foulweathcr tho shore bocomes al,
nipt and moderately high, with an increased depth of water immediately off
It. Four miles South of the Nekas, which is in lat. 44° 56', it changes to
low sand dunes, stretching into a narrow point, forming the South point of
the stream, while the North point is a low bluff The entrance is very
narrow and shoal, and inside the river is reported to spread out into a bay
of about a mile in extent, and to receive the waters of a stream draininir a
valley coming from the eastward.

From the Nekas to Cape Lookout tho distance is 24 miles, and course
N by W. i W., with a shore-line broken by several small streams, amon-^st
which are the Mc/wsne, in lat. 45= 2', with rocks in the entrance: the L-
taggaK in lat. 45^ 6'. called Ya^uinmh in reconnaissance of 1850 and
having a large rock off its mouth ; the Nawuggah in lat. 45° 14', and on the
houth side of whose entrance is a single rocky islet, hereafter referred to

■- "M ' L»t »,' i 'i ^iaia ii j.j#aj?*>!!atn»wim, ' jj

t»)<ii«:«>ij|iifiii'iiii

.^.jO (X)AS'r OF OIIEUON.

Le MofruB has C. Lucuut in thie latitude, and a small stroan, Klver Kaouai,

"^"CAPE LOOKOUT.-Tho Boundingn from Foulweathor to tbiH cape show
frl la to 31 fathoms of water at a distance of a mile from the shore, m-
creasing from 18 fathoms N-th oHat. 45^ N ^^^^^^^^

This cane is situated in lat. 4.") 20, long, i^i o- *" i' j
J;; X the sea for half u mile, and. as seen from «- Souththo t.,p is
tolerably flat and re.ndar. and at the highest part we judge xt to attam an
tin of 3,000 feet. The face directly t..-ard the ocean . perp di
cular high, and towards the South destitute of trees. Abou 8 ^»1«« ""^^
:::;' of l L . large single rock oil' the Nawuggah. «— ^^
bigh, and standing well out from the low sand beach bolund it. No rock
r,o oi this cape, but one appears very close inshore, about a m,le to the

"""Se MEARES.-Two or throe miles after leaving Cape Lookout the
land falls to a low sand beach, behind which is a long lagoon, called the
Nat-a-hats, stretching northwards, and having an opening under the South
bead of th well-marked point to the northward, which is the terminatum o
a spur or ridge, running from the south-eastward, presenting an ab upt
fit to the oce^n for about 2 miles, and being part of the western boundary
of mam ok Bay. In coming down this coast in the fall of 1857 we made
fe: noTes upo/some objects, and find the following niemorandum made
.vhilst near this point : " Three high rocks (one arch) o« point S. of False
^iUamook; one more on the North side." Not being then aware of any
doubt as to the name of the cape, no other particulars were noted. Four
rocks were laid down off the S.W. face on the coast survey reconnaissance of
1850, and one on the North. Three large rocks and one small one are laid
dowi^ off the S.W. face in the original sheets of the reconnaissance of 1853.
the most distant being I mile from shore, with several small ones between
tbem and the shore, and two or three others off the N.W. face.

TILLAMOOK BAY.— On the coast survey reconnaissance ot 185d tno
entrance to this bay is placed in latitude 45^ 34'. 4 miles North of Cape
Meares The southern point is low, and the termination of a spur from
1 crest of the cape, whilst the North head is high and bluff. The entrance
is very narrow, and reported to have very little water upon the bar ; inside
expands inlo a long wide bay. stretching to the S.S.E. behind Cape
Meares. No survey has yet been made of it. and some doubts are expressed
about the enlarging of the river to form a bay. Two miles northward of the
northern head stands a couple of large rocks ; thence the coast runs near^
straight to False Tillamook, receiving a considerable stream, caUed the
m!kl in lat. 45" 41'. Clarke, when about 5 miles South of TiUamook
nld s'ays that " the principal town of the Killamucks is situated 20 miles
lower (South) at the entrance to a creek called Nielee, expanding into a bay

("Al'H FALCON— TIIJ.AMOOK II HAD.

ver Kaouai,

i cape show
e shore, in-

ts somewhat
h, the top in
to attain au
is perpendi-
miles south-
) be 250 foot
t. No roekH
I mile to the

Lookout tho
)ii, called thti
dor the South
termination of
ng au abrupt
tern boundary
1857 we made
irandum made
int S. of False

aware of any
) noted. Four
connaissance of
ill one are laid
ssance of 1853,
1 ones between
le.
ce of 1853 the

North of Cape
of a spur from
f. The entrance

the bar ; inside
E. behind Cape
its are expressed
northward of the
loast runs nearly
eam, called the
nth of Tillamook
situated 20 miles
inding into a bay

wliich he named Kinumuiks I'ay. I'poii tliis Imy worn sovoral KillMiniick
towns. Killaiiiuck JJiver is at tlio licad of tlio hny* loO yards wide, ami
very rapid ; but having no pcrpiMidicular fall, in a groat avrnuo tor trade
There aro two small villages of Killamucks nottlod above its mouth, and tlm
wliolo trading portion of thn tribo ascriid it, till by u short purtagu th. y
carry thoir cauoos to tho Columbia vnlloy, and dowcond tlio Mulliioniah to
Wappatoo Islund. This information lio obtained from ludians and traders.
On this short expedition ho made all liis distauces from Cape Disappoint-
ment and Point Adams too great, and reducing the Ibronu^ntioued 20 miles
by tho proper proportion, it would give us 1." mile.s as about tlio po.sition of
the Nehalom. Ills name seems to agree with this, but tho doscriptiou
niiplies to what is generally known a.s Tillamook Bay.

The sliore about tlie Nehalem is low and sandy, with sand dunes baektd
by high voodod hills, and cut up by numy valleys. It was liero that Jleares
stood in for an anchorage (July, I7«8) until ho found bottom in 10 fathoms,
but hauled out again, and named tho place tiuicksand Buy, and tho adjoin-
ing headland North, Capo Greuvillo

CAPE FALCON, or False Tillamook.— The northern part of this head-
land lies in lat. -15" 17', long. 127^' 58'. Upon pas.sing close by it in 18,J7
wo judged it to bo not loss than 8,000 feet Iiigh, with tho sea face coming
precipitously to the ocoan, and off it lie two prominent roeky islots. As soon
from the southward tho top is irregul.ir, while tho hills inshore fall away.
Like some other points in this latitude, the southern face of tlio capo is
destitute of trees, but covered with a thick growth of grass, bushes, aiul
fern. Two miles South of it is a stretch of sand beach and sand dunes.

From Capo Lookout to this headland a depth of 20 fathoms may generally
be found a mile from shore ; but, as upon the whole coast, a heavy regular
swell always rolls in from tho West.

TILLAMOOK HEAD.— This prominent Cape, in lat. 45^^ 58', is 12 miles
N.N.W. from Cape Falcon, and 19 miles S.E. by S. A S. from Cape Disap-
pointment. Tho coast from Cape Falcon curves 2 miles eastward ; is bold
and rugged, guarded by many high rocky islets and reefs, and iu several
places bordered by a low sand beach at the base of tlit,' tlill's. Two milis
South of the Lead, Clarke (1805-0) locates a creek 80 yards wide at its
mouth, which he calls Ecola, or Whalo Creek. From tho South bar of tlie
Columbia Eiver the summit of Tillamook appears flat for aonio distaiu-o
back, and has an estimated height of 2,500 feet. OIF the face of tho capp,
which is very steep, lio several rocky islets ; one of them is high and riiggod,
and stands out about a mile from the S.W. face. Around it the water is
believed to be deep, as we have seen a steamer come almost upon it in a
thick fog, but inside of it lio several liigh rocks. 'From tho bar two rocks
can bo distinctly seen, the inner being tiio larger, and its apparent distance
from the head about half the apparent height of tlie capo. Whether tho

■^■s.sams -ssi'j- r sn ^.-iii n n^'^

.^.,2 COAST OF OllECiON.

Hmallor in the one off Capo Kulcon, we did «.,t deturnuno. A- Boon from

iBOutlnvard. the l^rgo ro.k has a perpendicular l^.o to tho .e^twarU.

and slopo« to tb" Ka«t. It i« tho resc-rl of tlu.UBand.s of noal.

Tlus capo is a j^ood laml-.nark for .uaking tho mouth of the Co um.m

I. !; :\.u.h l>i«h hoadh.nd oeeurrin. on the coast no.hwardc.. for

over 70 miles, and before being up with it tho moderately high l.nd of Cape

Disuppointmenl is seen, and made aH two islands.

Tile face of the capo in n.uch broken, and formed prmc.pa ly of jellow

clay, presenting a bright appearance in the sunlight. ^1-^° ^J^ ^^^
1 200 feet above tho ocean occurs a stratum of white earth, then (180.-6)
u'sed by the Indians as puint; and that the hiU-sides slip away m masses of
50 to 100 acres ut a time. ri+„„„„

Upon the top of the cape Clarke ..ys he found good, 7^^^' f f/;;;;
growing to a height of 210 feet, and ac-iuiring a diameter from 8 o 1- feet.
From Tillamook Head southward many miles was the coun ry of the
KiUamuck Indians, then estimated to number 1,000 people, and having oO
houses. The coast from Toint Orford to Tillamook Head is well diversified
by high hills and valleys, presenting a country well watered by numerous
lall streams emptying into the ocean. It is densely covered w,th varioi.
^■oods, and for a few miles inland looks favouraoly from the deck of a vessel.
Some distance in the interior ranges of mountains occur, the general ^ree-
tion of which appears to be parallel with the coast line which attained its
greatest elevatiJn and compactness between Cape Falcon and Tillamook
Head, after which a sudden and marked change takes place, and a stretch of
low sandy coast commences, and runs for nearly 100 miles rorthward, only
broken by Cape Disappointment.

COLUMBIA RIVER.

This river by far the most considerable of any that enter the sea en this
side of the Pacific, is the principal feature of the territory it waters If its
capabilities were at all commensurate with its magnitude, it would really
become an important point in the commercial history of the Facific. It has
«ome almost insuperable obstacles to its becoming of any great service to the

country it drains. • , „ .,. ^ e t.

'^he entrance to the Columbia is impracticable for saihng vessels for two-
thirds of the year. It cannot be safely entered at night, and in the day only
at particular times of the tide and direction of the wind. Unlike all known
ports, it requires both the tide and wind to be contrary to insure any degree

Vessels frequently lie for several weeks in Baker's Bay, inside the
entrance during the winter, for fine weather to get out, for which a fair
vind and smooth water are indispensable. The difficulties of ingress must

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23 WEIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTEF.,.;Y 4380

(716) 872-4503

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COLUMBIA EIVER. 2;i3

also bo greater, inasmucli as a vessel in the open oceac cannot watch hor
opportunity so conveniently aa when at anchor in Baker's Bay ; and the
hazard would bo still greater wore it not that the openness of the coasts, and
the prevalent gales, lessen the hazard of a lee-shore.

" But these obstructions, in proportion as they lessen the value of the
river, enhanced at the same time the merit of the man who first surmounted
them-a merit which cannot bo denied to the judgment, and perseverance,
and courage of Captain Gray, of Boston. Whether or not Captain Gray's
achievement is entitled to rank as a discovery, the question is one which a
bare sense of justice, without regard to political eonseriuonces, requires to
be decided by facts alone. First, in 1775, Hecota, a Spaniard, discovered
tiie opening between Cape Disappointment on the North, and Point Adams
on the South,— a discovery the more worthy of notice, inasmuch as such an
opening can hardly be observed excepting when approached from the west-
ward ; and being induced partly by the appearance of the land, and partly
by native traditions as to a great river of the West, he fiUed the gap by a
guess with his Eio de San Eoque. Secondly, in 1788, Meares, an English-
man, sailing under Portuguese colours, approached the opening in question
into 7 fathoms water, but pronounced the Eio de San Eoque to be a fable,
being neither able to enter it nor discover any symptoms of its existence!
Thirdly, Gray, though after an effort of nine days he failed to effect an
entrance, was yet convinced of the existence of a great river by the colour
and current of the water. Fourthly, in April, 1792, Vancouver, while he
fell short of Gray's conviction, then unknown to him, correctly decided that
the river, if it existed, was a very intricate one, and not a safe navigable
harbour for vessels of the burden of his ship. Fifthly, in May, 1792, Gray,
returning expressly to complete his discovery of the previous year, entered
the river, finding the channel very narrow, and not navigable more than 15
miles upwards, even for his Columhia, of 220 tons. According to this summary
statement of incontrovertible facts, the inquiry resolves itself into throe
points— the discovery of the opening by Heceta, the discovery of the river
by Gray on his first visit, and the discovery of a practicable entrance by the
same individual revisiting tlio spot for the avowed purpose of confirming and
maintaining his previous belief. Gray thus discovered one point in a country,
which, as a whole, other nations had discovered, so that the pretensions of
America had been already forestalled by Spain and Eugland."-6Vr George
Simpson.

The Columbia Eiver possesses but few advantages as a port ; the difficul-
ties and dangers of its entrance, which have been manifest to all who have
come hither since its first discovery, have not boon exaggerated, and without
very efficient means be at command for towing ships over the bar into the
quieter water within, it will be almost impossible for a ship to enter in
safety. One feature which renders it still more difficult for a sailing vessel

.^34 COAST OF OREGON.

to cross the bars is, that a good and eon^xnanding hroezo within or without
the mouth often falls to a calm when the breakers are reached. The hiftmg
of the lals forming the bars and entrances, which they do apparently very
c n^de ably at sho^ intervals, increases the diffic^dty, from the .mposs.
^m^tf having any established marl, for the guidance of the commander
that will be good for a lengthened period.

In addition to this, the cross-tides, and their great velocity, increase he
difficultieB. The heavy swell of the Paciiic, and the influence of an und r
ouTrent, add their embarrassments, and all these become greater Irom th
distant of threading marks of the channel, and their indistinctness wh n
r weather -iU permit entrance. It is necessary to use them, because the
l^ass bearings'are of little or no use. The land near it is well markod,

and this is some little advantage. ,, , u„ o;, -p.iw

The first complete survey that was made of the river was that by Sir Edw^
Belcher in HM.S. Sulphur, in 1839, which showed some remarkable
chVnges from the charts of 1792. The northern channel up to Cape D.sap-
Itment was then the only known good entrance The L .S^ Exp oi.^^^^^
ExT^odition in 1841, also examined it, and found but one channel, but tluit
Stch nged. The next advance in its hydrography was the discov.^
If the South channel, in January or February, ^^f ' ^^ ^^^^'^J^^^^^^
.-ho feund not less than 4 fathoms on the bar. In 1851 the U.S. Coast
Survey officers under Lieut. W. P. M'Arthur, completed a preliminary sur-
vey of the outer entrance, since which period no complete e--nation has
been pubhshed ; but in 18G9 a survey was made by Mr. E. Corddl U.S^
Coast Survey, which showed that the North channel had very much a tered
Id was unsafe, except for smdl vessels. To these authorities, and to tl.
lections drav^n up by Mr. Geo. Davidson, combined with our former ob-
servations, we owe the foUowing remarks :—

POINT ALAMS.-Two miles northward of Tillamook Head commences
a plliar line of low sandy ridges, running parallel to the beach towards
Point Adams, and appearing like huge sand-waves covered with grass and
fern Between some of them run small creeks, whilst the country behind i.
low 'swampy and covered with wood, and an almost impenetrable undei-
;:;trTbout 3 mUes North of the head, Clarke says a beautiful streaiu
Ipties. with a strong rapid current. It is 85 yards wide, and has 3 feet at

ita shallowest crossing.

PoTnt Adams is low and sandy, covered with bushes and trees to the hue
of sand beach and low dunes ; and although it is reported to have washed
away over half a «iile since 1841. we find comparatively small changes since
thesurveyof Broughtonin 1792.

No lighthouse exists here, but the necessity for one has been so repeatedly

uv.ed that we cannot refrain from calling attention to a few fucs bear.ng

p;u the question. Otf this point S.W. by S. .-.l miles hes (18o2) the bar

1 or -without
Tho sliifting
parontly very
tho impossi-
B commander

increase the
> of an under
iter from the
nctness when
I, becauKO the
•well markod,

it by Sir Edw.
[6 remarkable

Cape Disap-
I.S. Exploring
nnel, but that
3 the discovery
;:!aptain White,
tho U.S. Coast
reliminary sur-
samination has
J. Cordell, U.S.
y much altered
ies, and to tlie
our former ob-

;ead commences

1 beach towards
with grass and

)untry behind is
enetrable under-
beautiful stream
md has 3 feet at

trees to the lino
I to have waslicd
all changes sinco

leen so repeatedly
'ew facts bearing
es (1802) tho bar

CAPE mSAPl'OINTMEN'r. o'.io

of tho South channel, through which the far greater portion of tlio trade has
passed ; and all vessels use this point as a standard point for their ranges.
During tho early part of tho evening dense fogs, formed over the waters of
Gray's and Shoalwater bays, are brought southward by the summer winds,
and roll over Cape Disappointment, which they completely shut in before
reaching across the river, so that a vessel miglit make a light on Point
Adams, when tho other cape was invisible ; but by seeing botli lights a
vessel could hold any required position at night near either bar, and run in
and take a pilot upon the first opportunity ; for it would be assuming too
great a risk to enter tho river at night or without a pilot.

The beach around Point Adams, and to tho southward some distance, is
usually called Clatsop Beach.*

On Point Adams some missionaries were established in 1841. Captain
Wilkes visited these pioneers in tho wilderness. In walking on tho sand-
hills, and about Point Adams, he says t!iat he had never in all his life seen
so many snakes as were on the beach, where they were apparently feeding
at low water.

Clatsop village, near tho mission, consists of a iovr rough Indian lodges,
constructed of boards, or rather large hewn planks. On the Clatsop bo^acli
he saw a great number of dead fish. Mr. Birnio informed him that they
were thrown up in great numbers during tho autumn, and were supposed to
be killed by a kind of worm generated in their stomachs.

CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT.t-Tho North side of the Columbia Eivor
forms part of Washington Territory ; it was the southern boundary of the
"New Georgia," of Vancouver, 1792.

This cape is the only headland froui Tillamook to latitude 47° 20' that
breaks the low line of shore. It presents a geological formation not before
met with on the sea board, being composed of horizontal columnar basalt,
rising to an elevation of 287 ft., disposed in auccessioi. of huge round hiUs,
broken on the sea front by short strips of sand beach, and covering t.n irre-
gular area of about 3 miles by one. Inland of their crests the trees com-

* Upon Clatsop Beach, many years ago, before the whites occupied tho country, a
Chinese or Japanese junk, with many hands, and a cargo of heesewax, was cast aslio're,
and went to pieces, but tho crew wjre saved. In support of this Indian tradition, there
are occasionally, after great storms, pieces of this wax thrown ashore, coated with sand,
and bleached nearly white. Formerly a great deal was found, but now it is rarely met
with.

t This cape was seen by Do Heccts, in August, 1775, and again liy Captain Mears, in
July, 1788, when he called it Cape Mtappoiiitment, by which name it is still known. In
170-2, Gray, tho real discoverer of the river, called it Cnpc liancvH- afterward, but relin-
•luished this term. It is still, however, applied to it in some works. The Indian name is
J\ah-cesc.*

■-TSi!mm^ilfS?^' T t Uh^^m i^ n % r9 v tri. ' -f - M ''J s r'' i r M^ )e

r ^ 'jgi^'. -l ' . tfJRss,-*-:

ggg COAST OF OREGON.

„.ence and their tops reaching above the sun^mits of the hills i-roaso their
an 1 ^.j^^ .^ ^^^^ g^^ti^^ g„ that

Crel" "<-"■» .orthen, b«y,, do not cover ,h« cape, we h.,o .om -
Ze, expericnocd « dense % filing dowa .he river about .unme, e.velop-

'Tr^lt:r:.rrT™a.oo.H..d Cape.^^^^^^^^
„ent i. made a, two round-topped Wand.. Apptoached from the N.W .t
",° na .tailar manner; from the >Vc,t and S.W. it appears projected
: n he menntains, but the ..ightc... haziness in the "-P"- ^7';
ont in sharp relief. This cape bcng basaltic, and ahowmg an almost .ron

ronu: the *cr and sea. it is impossible ''•''/""■'—^-^^/^f Jd
Disappointment ha. been worn a,.ay some hundred foot bj the sea,

strnnf? cuiTBTits that run by it.

The lioHTHOTISE is not upon the top of the cape, but upon a spun a

little to the West of the S.E. point, and about 9.. ft. below the h.ghe.t part.

Th t Ver is whitewashed, placed 192 ft. above the level of the sea, and be.ng

Tft Theight, and projected against a dark green background, shows well

n daylight. It is in lat. 46^ 16' 32" N., long. 124° 2' 13" W.

The ifght is .fised .kite ligU, of the first order of Fresnel, was first ..-
hib^ted October Is, 1856, and shows from sunset to sunnse. It .s elevated
1'\0 ft above the sea, and may be seen 22 miles off.

lltJof 1.600 pounds has been placed on the bluff in advance of the
ligtt^ower, and will be sounded during foggy or other thick weather, mght

"^'Entrance to this the great river of the Pacific coast is 5 miles wide
be^weenTe nearest parts of Cape Disappointment and Point Adams, beanug
S TsTw from each other ; but the passage is badly obstructed by shifting
lal that lie 2 or 3 miles outside of the line joining the points. The nu-
merous surveys that have been made of this river prove so conclusively the
Tchan Js which the channels through the shoals undergo, that the
^"t'eml!:: on the North and South channels must be used with
subsequent ^^^^ . ^^^^ ^^^h the bar, tvait

r :r Thfmai and coasting steamers, in 1857. entered the South

^Lle araU^^^^^^^^^^^ beach South of Point Adams; but with a

^avy 11 from the westward they roll very much after rounding the poiut^

irhea" weather some of them preferred entering the N. channel, although

^Tn\t8rw:!:runtrthatthe North channel had changed so much
thaUt was considered unsafe, and only to be used by vessels of very hght

'Tamng vessels cannot beat into the South channel against the summer
winds blowing from the N.W., but almost invariably come out through it.

COLUMBIA RIVER.

237

:;roa80 their
tie, so that
1, which are
have somo-
80, envelop-

Disappoint-

;he N.W., it

rs i>rojected

ire brings it
almost iron
many, Cape

the sea, and

)on a sputa
highest part,
ea, and being
d, shows well

was first ex-
it is elevated

idvance of the
reather, night

3 5 miles wide
Ldams, bearing
ted by shifting
lints. The nu-
onclusively the
>orgo, that the
it be used with
h the bar, ivait
ered the South
ms ; but with a
ading the point,
annel, although

anged so much
is of very light

nst the summpr
out through it.

The heavily laden vessels of the Hudson's Bay Company have always used
the North cliannel.

During heavy weather, and especially in winter, the sea breaks with ter-
rific fury from N.W. of Cape Disappointment well to the southward of
Point Adams, and we remember the mail steamer trying for 60 hours to find
the smallest show of an opening to got in. Sailing vessels have laid off the
entrance six weeks, waiting for a fair opportunity to enter, and many lie in-
side for wooks trying to got out. The mail stoamor meanwhile, exerting all
her power, would drive through the combers, having her deck swept fore and
aft by every sea. Few places present a scene of more wildness than this bar
during a S.E. gale, contrasting strongly with many times during the summer,
when not a breaker is seen to mark the outline of the shoalest spot. In bad
weather the pilot boats cannot venture out, but a steamer might ; and the
mail steamers, to avoid delay, now regularly carry a bar pilot with
them.*

During the season of freshets, about Juno, the pilots say that the river
brings down such a vast body of water, that they can frequently take up for
use fresh water upon the bar.

WhoT off the entrance in fine clear weather, the beautiful snowy peak of
Mount St. miens shows over the lowest part of the land inside, and apparently
in the middle of the river valley. It is very regular in outline, and presents
a pyramidal appearance, having a base equal to either side. It is over 75
miles eastward from the entrance to the river, and attains an estimated ele-
vation of 13,500 ft. It is volcanic, and occasionally discharges volumes of
smoke, t

The South Channel, which passes between the outer Middle Sand and tho
bank abutting on Point Adams, has nowhere less than 24 feet water at any
time of tide. It is now the only practicable entrance, and passes between
the south-western extension of the Middle Sand, and the bank again»t Point
Adams. Tho Middle Bank ic extensive, and stretches for 4^ miles southward
of Capo Disappointment, its eastern edge being 2J miles off from the low
land of Point Adams, leaving a channel three-quarters of a mile wide be-
tween it and the bank against the latter point. Its general course is N.N.E.
and S.S.W., tho depth varying from 3i to 9i fathoms.

Two buoys were laid down in 1868, to show its direction. Tho outer, or
No. 1 buoy. Fairway, a mammoth buoy of the first class, striped vertically

• An evidence of the danger of the entrance was afforded by tho wreck of tho barque
Onofe, which sunk in the endeavour to enter, on September 19th, 1853. The vessel and
cargo were totally lost, but tlio crow saved. She had on board the materials for tho light-
home, since erected on Cape Disappointment.

t On November 23rd, 1842, during an eruption, tho ashes fell from it over the Dalles of
the Columbia like a fall of snow. 8t. Helen's and Rainier were both in action.

COAST or OREGON.
^^^ , „Uh Capo Disnppointment light-

mck ani .me. HeB - i^ fathoms -^^^^^^^^^^ Jl 4 .iles. No.
UoUBO bearing N. by W. I W., -^^^^;;;*f j^,,,, North 2i n.ile. from tho
2 buoy, alBO a first class mammoth buoy, r_ , . i^tmout Light-

outorbuoy No. 1, i. 5i fathoms water, wit^ -P IP^^^ ^^^^ ^^ g^^,

house N.N.W. J W., Point Adams L. i N.,

Island N. by E. ^ , Lieutenant McArthnr, and

The following ^^^^''^^ ^^^l^lZ^^l^'^^ of the entrance; but they

::r::teL:ttro:^^^^

range with Elat or Table Hmwh^chw^ll be s^^^^ ^ ^^^ ^.^^^^

o, Millar Hill Tree (^^^^^^^J^^^^^^^^ Tree will answer for

and keep on this range (or Pomt Adams an ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^

.,Mdraughts)unUl the barker s^^^^^^^^^^^ The vessel will then be in

N 40° E., true (N.Hi. oy th. 5 xj. ^j ^

the South Channel in the best water ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^

Steer for the beacon, takmg care not to sag ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^

keep close to the breakers ^ f ^^^^con wut C^^^^ deepen with

Island, and fall into '^^^^fl^'^^Tl^^ the custom-house is on with
this range astern in .. ^^^^^^l^: ,^^,., running on it until nearly

by the lead to the anchorage at Astoria. and therefore scant

^>..«,/».-Shouldthewmdbewd^^^^^^^^^^ .^ .^ ^^^^^ ^.^^

for passing Clatsop Spit, tack he ^^^^f^^^ ^,, ^ack again.

Ewing Peak (the high oval P-^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^,, ,^ or out.

The South Channels a safe bea^Bgcha ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^.^^ ^^

Sand Island, above alluded t«.;^^ j^^^;? ^^^ timber which have

the Middle Bank. '^^^'^f'^^^^^X^l.r., forming a nucleus,
floated down the river, and which become l^clg ^^^ .^,^^^

.round which the debris brought down by the^t^e^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^

, about one-tM^ of a m e^o^^^^^^^^^ ,^^^ J,,,,.., .,h some

A large heacon on it, d^tmgui ^^^^^,^ j^^^^ ^^ ,^^ ^^,>)

house., called Hall's Houses, on *!- e^s^^- ; ^^^ p^-^^ Adams,

the mark for clearing the A est P°-* "^^^f ;jji .i^^.tion around Point

The Clatsop Channel, -^^f .P^^J^ttlle wide between Clatsop
Adams and the Clatsop Beach. IS ^^-t ^ ^^^ ^^.^^ ^,,^,^ ,,,i,g at its
Spit, which stretches off orl m y^^^ ^^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^,^.

outer edge not more than 7^ ft -^t ^^^ .^^^^ ^^, ,^^^, ,,. Catsup

thoms deep at tho bend. Uavinj, lou

ASTORIA.

2;!9

itment liglit-
l miles. No.
lilen from tlio
tmont Light-
eud of Sand

JcArthiir, and
inco ; but tliey
e buoys before

jint Adams in
the northward
1 a higb hill),
will answer for
Qd Island bears
n\\ then be in

aid, but rather
IS close to Sand
■. Keep on with
ouse is on with
,n it until nearly
Lstor Point, run

id therefore scant
8 in range with
tack again,
is in range with

out.

tern extension of
imber which have
irming a nucleus,
eases. The island
250 yards in width,
•anging with some
r'sBay, is (or was)
:'oint Adams,
ction around Point
e between Clatsop
ams, having at its
i from 6 to 14 fa-
d buoy oil v^latsop

Si)it, bear off to north-oastward to the lower or Sand Island aneliorago in 7i
fatlioius, with the Sand Island boacon bearing West, about a niilo distant.
In leaving the river by tlie South entrance from the anchorngo, keep Pillar
Hill Tree shut in to the northward of Point EUice (on tho North side of tho
river), until Point Adams and Ewing Peak are in lino, when keep off, gra-
dually running down the channel near the line of breakers of tho Middle
Sand, until Point Adams comes on with Flat Hill North of tho Pillar Hill
Tree bearing about N.E. .} E., when bear out over the bar marked by the
Fairway striped buoy.

The Clatsop Channel further up is bounded on the North side by tlio
Middle Ground off Young's Bay. The West end of this Middle Ground is
marked by a black iron buoy, lying in 5 fathoms, with Sand Island bearing
W.N.W., and Point Adams S.W. .} S., one mile distant.

The southern side of this bank is marked by two more black iron buoys,
and by a black spor buoy, marking the North side of the channel abreast As-
toria. In beating up or down this part of the channel, bring the beacon on
Sand Island and the Broom Tree on Cape Disappointment in one, and tack
on the North side when in 7 fathoms, and on the South side in 6 fathoms.
The tide sets fairly through the channel from Astoria to Sand Island.

At about 4 miles East by South of the land of Point Adams is Point
George (or Young), forming the East limit of Youik/s Bay. It is the first
point made after passing eastward of Clatsop Beach ; immediately behind it
the land is high and densely wooded. The entrance of Youmfs River, so
named by Vancouver after Sir George Young, is about IJ miles E.S.E. of
the point. From its banks a low meadow, interspersed with scattered trees
and shrubs, extends to the more elevated land. From a sort of bar
across its entrance it is not easily navigable, though tho depth is above 2^
fathoms.

Ador Point lies E. 2 N. from Point Adams. It is low at the river bank ;
the southern channel passes close to it. The United States Coast Survey
Station, about one quarter of a mile westward of the bay, is in lat. 46° 11'
27.6" N., long. 123= 49' 32" W.

ASTORIA, which lies to the eastward of Point George, on the southern
shore of the river, has been much celebrated ; but its fame depends mainly
upon its historian, that delightful writer, Washington Irving, who has told
aU the world of its progress and fortunes. It has sunk from the scene of
revelry and hospitality to a neglected collection of hovels. Though tho
site is still known by its original appellation, yet that was superseded for
Fort George, when it was taken possession of by the British.*

* In 1809 Mr. Johu Jacob Astor, a Gorman, who had oniigraluJ from liis imtivo country
in 1783, engaged in tho fur trade, and iu that year obtained a charter from the New York
legislature lor oigani.'^ing a I'acilie Fur t'onipany, all the cajiital of Mhich belonged to him-

COAST OF OREGON.

...Uon b,ing iho lo^er one, I. .... >"^^^';'* ':„„,, ;. .„e UnW
A.Uppor A.tori,>,throo.<inar..r.»f ' "''» '» '» ,, ^ ,„ ,„„ ^m hero,
State. cu»to„,.hou«>, ana . '"'''"^'''gj^ '^ „„tl,' WiUame....,
,„d a B««™,»»..t -"'"."-^ -" "jf ^7; 1„ . t„„ Cape Di-appoW-
ABtoria i. very be.utifaUy » t.iated. I"'" , • ,,, p„,„„„t„,y

„e„t in a direct lino. ITom ..there .. a e v^w jf _^.^ ^^^.^^ ^_|. ,^^

aad.l..occa,.beundingi.onthe Wo.., .^Ctau e ^^^^^^ j^^^__^„

,.i.,.i..ru,sedpeak,e,..heNe,-.l.; To S^I- ^_^_^^^ ^^ ,„„ ,

„„,l.oEa..; ,ndaWgl.l.ackgro„„d ^f^'^J ^j ^^ 50O tee. i«
Tl.e ground ri«o. from .he river gradually .0 the top
elevu.iou. . . , . . ■. .t„„,l» forms a hay wi.h Young'. River,

«:;,... C-ng eince gone .0 ^=7) » "' frJal:.- .he .ou.hem .here.
Ea..«rd or A..ori. .. a romarkabl P^""-^ ,.h of tW. poin. is

fend,heehannelupiher.,er 1 .. a h^gh P ^^ ^^^^^^ j,^.„.^

ttee. of largo d.men..ons. T''"' '» „„id »idon.. .hat might occur
,Uch canoes often us. ... '!''\"'"'''"lT.rat pal. round i..
in .he rough so., .ha. make .a *= *;^;' ^^ i^'Icribod, is from 3 .0 7
The .pace, whose shores are .hu, '.'"P;™'*^ ( the shoal, which

mile, wide, and'ery intricate - -^^ j; ^^^..riaUy. and .h...

riC'C p ^oH"-. - *" °° -"*'''' '"""°°" "°°

"CllX Channel, a. before ..a.ed, i^now ^^^^^ ^
vessels, bu.. he following directions we. .ud^yth^ ^^^^ ^^^^

-;dt:.r;:r:;.^.sr:.:i-«-^^

"""^ "" .V f r^f thfl Pacific, on the Columbia, &c., &<--

the post of Astoria.

a, tlio original
id a saw mill,
is tlio United
saw mill horo,
/■illametto,
ape Disappoint-
igli promontory
tnd Point Elllce,
italamet Eango
piiios, to tho S.
Jgo, 500 foot iu

li Young's River,
Tho position of

Bouthern shore,
1 of this point is
t Channel. This

eastward on the

fortification to Ao-
ock, covered with
on Tongue Point,
3 that might occur
nd it.

3d, is from 3 to 7
if the shoals which
erially, and that,
led directions can

ivailable for largo
rnited States Coast
premised that thoy
I changeable nature

inge with Coxcomb

iu range with the

)wards Sand Island,

1 the Columbia, &c., Ac-
one by sea and one by
.n March, ISU, founded

HAKEU'S HAY.

241

passing the .South end of the North Ih-oakor. Whon Capo liliill and Load-
ing-in Cliff oouio in range, haul up for tho capo (quickly) on this range,
which crosses Peacock Spit in 3i fatlioms. On approaching Peacock Spit,
drop a httlo to the eastward, and take the range of Capo JUuif and Snag
or Green Point, which gives tho best water botwoon Peacock and Sulphur
Spits, and leads all clear up to the bluff. Light draught vessels may koop
on range of Capo Bluff and Leading-in Cliff till nearly up to Cape lUuff.
Give the bluff a small berth, and keep on towards Baker's Bay until the
secoud islet in the cove can bo seen, when the vessel will bo all cloar of
Sulphur Spit. This range clears the North side of tho Middle Sauds.
Having passed Cape Bluff, anchor in 4^ to 6 fathoms.

Ranges cannot bo given for the channel from Baker's Bay to Sand
Island, owing to the influence tiio current exerts at different stages of tlie
tide. The cross tides in the North Channel, and the baffling wind near
Capo Bluff, make this channel very difficult for sailing vessels.

The prevailing wind is N.W. by W., and in the narrowest part of the
channel vessels must generally beat in a cross tidt .

BAKER'S BAY is to the eastward of Capo Disappointment. It was
named by Broughton. There is good anchorage in it under tho capo. The
bay runs 2J miles northward of tho cape, and into its head some small
streams run. Two or three houses and a saw mill u mile North of the cape
are all that remains of the settlement designated as •' I'acilic City,"

Chinook Point, the eastern limit of Baker's Bay, is N. by E. 2J miles from
Point Adams. It is a low strip of land at the base of high wooded hills, one
of which, called Scarborough Hill, is remarkable for being bare of trees.
This eastern point is not good for anchoring, as a heavy sea sometimes sets
in on it oyer the bar.

There are many fishing and Indian huts on Chinook Beach, occupied by
salmon fishers. The fish commence running up about the end of May, and
are remarkably plentiful by the ond of June,

Foint miis, or mice, is 2J miles nearly East, true, from Chinook Point.
Behind it rise two peaked hills, one of which is (or was) used as a mark,
with Point Adams as a leading mark for the southern bar.

The COLUMBIA EIVER above this may be briefly described. From
Cape Disappointment to the mouth of the Cowlitz River the course and dis-
tance are 46 miles in a straight line ; along the course of tho river it is 52
miles. The Cowlitz runs N.N.W. for 24 miles; thence N.E. to its head
quarters in the cascades. It is navigated by canoes about 28 miles to the
Cowlitz landing. At the Cowlitz landing, travellers take mules or horses
through to Puget's Sound a trip of 52 miles.

From the Cowlitz the next course of the Columbia is S. 32° E. for 29
miles to the mouth of the Willamette River. The WiUamotte continues the
same general course of the Columbia for 16 miles to the falls, where is
North Pacific.

•'■W J g ^ ' V B K g '" - " ■ ' ^" -^

,^, wAsniNOTiiN ■rKUiiniiUY,

ti..n, with a p..i)ulatiou of nearly 5,000. Tho valioy oi

j;t:;!:w;::u-wZ r;i„«..N.w. ,n., ..'„„„. „..,^..

Hi 000 fp«t liiKli. A.rordiug to other authontioB, it ih 18,.n6 t«et.
;r 1 tw' .art..ftho(llu„a,ia a,>d WiUametto many na.-mai. have

..„,,ie.l on in hnnbor. Between San Fran.isco and Porthvnd a very laige
and increasing' gonorul trade oxiHts.

WASHINGTON TEERITORY.
The Cohimbia "River divides Oregon from the Washington Territory,
wh'h extends between the paraUel^ of 40" and 49^ eastward to the Kooky

"^'sHr^WATER BAY.-The bold cliff, of Cape Disappointment, after
e^Suf 3 -ile. northward, change suddenly to a low broad, sandy
T I Ji^^nninL' N by W i W. 18 miles, m nearly a straight line to the
':^:^uf;^l:^^-^o^....r Bay. A mile and a .uajjter
ZL this bea..h Ues the southern arm of tho bay. Its watei. rea h with i
a m 1 o two of the North side of the capo, and the portage frcnn thence t
thTwaipalooche emptying into Baker's Bay, is said to be about a xuilo
W always usld by the Indians and settlers. The peninsula thus

fZod is covered with trees and a dense undergrowth of bushes. AV^lun
ha" a mile of its extremity it becomes very low and sandy, an,' has a cover-
L^ o Irso grass, but no trees. This point was called Zo. Po». by Meares
In July. 1788 On the recent coast survey charts it is n^u^e^LeadbetterFouU.
Tho Indian designation is Chik-lis-ilk. ^ . . xi_ tvt *i

CAPE SHOa£wATER. or 'Me Foint.--F.o^ Leadbetter Tomt the North
cape bears N.W. by N. | N., 5,} miles distant. Half a mile of the cape is low,
; ly , and destitute of trees, but some tolerably high land, covered with wood
L immediately behind it. being the only elevated g-nd^etwee" ^ape
Disappointment and Point GrenviUe that approaches the shore b^e The
^3 position of Cape Disappointment and the seaward fa.e of its bo d
cUffs wlLout trees fonn a peculiar feature. This with ^.«r o.o«,A ^./^
partly bare, lying 5 or 6 miles East of it. the high mountains inland, and in
^^wathei'thf beautiful snow-peak of Mount St. Helen's have no coun-
teiT>aits at Capo Shoalwater, and should remove aU doubt m regard to the
•supposed general ve«'uibluuce between them.

plnco of im-
fallinp; thoro
kVillamette is
• ship nayiga-
Willaraotte is

mnt Hood Vui
inilt'S (liBtant ;
;tiu<t vokano,
m 15,000 uuil
foet.

law-raills havw
irgo trudu was
I a vory large

;ton Territory,
d to tlio Rocky

loiutmont, after
V, broad, sandy
gilt line to the
( and a quarter
ors reach within
from thence to
bo about a inilo
) peninsula thus
bushes. Within
iiu^ has a cover-
Point by Mearcs
ILeadhetterPoint.

• Point the North
)f the capo is low,
overed with wood,
lid between Cape
) shore line. The
:d face of its bold
Scarborough Hill,
ins inland, and in
's, have no coun-
i in regard to the

SnoALWATER BAY.

2l:i

The LIOHTHOUSE nt the North point of th.. onfrnnco to Shonlwiitor
Hay, Homi'tiiucH nillod Tnh Poiuf, is ii Htn- uiro consiMtiiif,' of a kcfpi-i-'H
dwelling, with a tower rising through it. Its height is II. J feet aliovo the
ground, and about 87 feet alwve tho sea. It is almiit a niil(> from the ex-
tremity of tlio capo. The illuminating apparatus is of tho fourth order of
Frosnel, and shows a fixrd white liijkt, varit>d by flashm every l.J minute. It
is visible Ifiniilos off, and is i lat. Id' l-l 11" N., long. I'il' 2' 21' W.

The bay was 8urv(>yod in 18.)'i and 18.")5 liy the ILW. survey party under
Lieut. Jas. Aldon, and it tlion had two entrances, separated l)y a middle
ground, on whicli was an island, in a similar way to the entrance of tho
Columbia River. Hut in 1808 this arrangement was changed, the South
channel iiad much filled up, aiul was said to Ik^ of no us(>, while the North
channel had increased in depth to T) fathoms, and was nuich wider and
deeper, besides being broad and straiglit. The island had dihappcared, and
vessels sailed over its position.

Ah tlio bay is mu(^h froqmmted for oysters, transported to i- un Francisco,
&c., it is of some importance, and is considered to be the best harbour on
the coast North of San Francisco, being much more -^ >• / of access than tho
Columbia River.

The J i." dons which follow are those issued by Lieut A'. 'on, but thoy
•nust bo taken with the qualifications above alluded to, and with all neces-
sary caution if it is imperative that a vessel should enter without a pilot.

Four miles off tho entrance to Shoalwater Bay a depth of 10 fathoms is
found, and when well off shore a high double-peaked mountain shows to
tho eastward, well inland. The bar at the South channel has 1 fathoms of
water upon it, in 1855 was a mile wide, and was 2 miles off tho beach
South of Leadbetter Point, with the northernmost trees bearing N.E. by E.
Running in on this lino, a vessel shoals her water from 10 fathoms 3 miles
off shore, to 4 fathoms 2 miles off ; then gradually deepens it to 5 fathoms,
when she should haul close up under tho point of breakers northward of
her, and about half a mile distant ; run along in from 6 to 7 fathoms, until
abreast of the low grassy point, when the course of the channel will be N.
by W. \ W. for 1 J mile, with from 8 to 10 fathoms hard bottom, its outline
being well marked by the breakers outside. From thence a course N.E. by
N. for 2 miles will lead to 18 fathoms, and over a mile inside the line join-
ing Leadbetter Point and Cape Shoalwater, the western trees on Leadbetter
Point bearing S. J E., 3J miles distant. If the tide is low, sand bars and
flats will show on both hands, one directly ahead ; the broad deep clmnnel
to the S.E. distinctly marked by bare patches on either side, and a narrow
deep channel to the N.W. running into the North channel. From the last
position the western treea on Leadbetter Point bear South, distant 4 miles.
Tlie current runs very strong through this channel. In summer, with a
north-wester blowing, it is a dead beat after passiisg 'he bar, and in some

Jl 2

^^^ WASHINGTON TEEMTORY.

p,.„ 40 o.an»e. i. .».. «,an h..f . .He wide ^-^^'J^; ^^^:;,^^Z
L.t,r, do not o„.„ it e„.cpt with a .outhcrly -" ;»'^._,^''J /„, ^
the cha™.,l f,n.. aloft. In Bummer they have a leading

on the first of tlio oW). , , „, r ^ ^.^^ nnrni it and bears

The bar at tho North ehannel ha. ahout »i/»*°™;!;" ''^.^.ter,
S.W. hy S. i S,. 3 mih. from the »"'''- —fh^.^lfuue. In
or Toko Point. It is ahout a m,le m e«cnt "''I™ ™ J ^^^^^^j „,

matins tho hay from the »»*7f -'^^Irl ji-W the breaker.
Cape Shoalwater, then run m and Mow the *"» J" ^^ ^opth

in 6 or 7 lathom,, gradually "PI'""^'"^. ^T ; J^toZ ^«nd of the

;:rtLw-^T«Uom.,ande.^^^^^^^^

mile and a quarter, takmg care no to J'™"" « ^ ^^^i^^,

nnder the breaker, on the North ., do ■„ '^ ^^t "en it «.uthem e.-
-' rruIOeartV r^. di'I^. ^rV it i, low water, .and-
rk?:;.towt<Stlt dir^etion., ^d th, channel. wiU be tolerably

vrell marked. i.„.„;r,o. ;« to steer out the

re,'r:h:=iirti^:::t=rmn.tbek.own,

^ AV 15 mile from Leadbotter Point, runs N.W. ^y ^- ' '^- '° . ,.* . , .
Zn:;1 .» mil.., and E.N.K li -"-'* ^ XmrJl W
„ae. One n.ile ou..ido of it .oun^g. Z/: 1'".^ '1" o"*»" »'
„,.„ameimph., ...oMl o •«; -^^^'j-^ ,„„„, .^„,bo„t it,

::tr;:rrZetionlb: given for runmng them. Without a inew-

LCf.-- »' t'- --^r:n«" ::^ «-°"^ '-^^^^^^

rent, then run with great velocty, and .t ,. veiy ,„u,hwa.-d

impo.siHetok.epaecurs.agamst.hem_ ^•'« J™ f ^^j^,, ,.,^^, .„
toward Baker'. Bay is .5 m. e. long '"- ™ . ,,,,„,„

average width of not l.» than 3* m,.., '".t d^o W^ ^ j^,,^ ,„k„„i„,
tothoN.l. tor 9 mile, to the North «' * "'' °J,"f^ „„d Uadbetler
ftom the middle of the line joimng Cape fehoalwater

''°'"'" » • „ into ibe bav i. the Whil-a-pah, at its

;S';rrarr:m;:.rm\Ce*.lwLriti.lesstha. a,n„^

rf a mTle wide, with low swampy bank., and steep bluft. on each ..de about

a mile and a half apart. i;a« 'i mUes N E. i E. from

The mouth of the Pain, or Copalux Rmr hes \f'l^2l^^^
Leadbettor Poiut. It is half a mile wide at its mouth, and contracts very

SHOALWATER BAY.

24o

.0 3-fatliom lines.
. always pick out
ind out, and start

pon it, and bears
Capo Shoalwater,
[-fathom line. In
tlio northward of
le of the breakers
creasing the depth
ited ground of the
course as possible,
epth for at least a
lither hand. Keep
lonis, hard bottom,
an its southern ex-
is low water, sand-
Is will be tolerably

is to steer out the
nels must be known,

The southern tail is
^. I N. for 2i miles,
average width of U
fathoms. This bay,
es about one-half of
found throughout its
n. Without a know-
low water. The cur-
eacult and frequently
stretching southward
atter Point, with an
ppor portion stretches
-pah river, reckoning
rater and Leadbetter

;ho T\Tiil-a-pah, at its
; is less than a quarter
iffs on each side about

miles N.E. i E. from
th, and contracts very

much in 2 miles. The Nasal enters about 11 miles South from the Palux,
and abreast of the middle of Long Island. It has over 20 feet water at its
mouth, with bluff banks for some distance, until it begins to expand, when
it is bordered by flats.

Several streams open from the North side of the bay. One of these, the
Necomanche, near the Whil-a-pah, has 6 feet in tho main channel, and show .s
1 i mile wide at high tide.

There are three islands in the bay. Pine Island, about 1^ mile N.W. by
N. off the mouth of the Palux, is a small sand islet of only 4 or 5 acres in
extent, and occupied by oystermen. It is near tlio channel and oyster bods,
which stretch for a couple of miles to tho N.N.E. of it. Tho Indian name
of this island is Nass-too. Tho North end of Long Island, is 8 miles from
Leadbetter Point. This island runs irregularly about S.E. for 6 miles, and
has an average width of 1 i mile. It is covered with a dense forest of fir
and undergrowth. One mile S.S.E. of Long Island is a very small islet
called Round Island, of only a few acres in extent, covered with wood and
bushes. Tho shores of tho bay, except on the peninsula, are mostly com-
posed of low perpendicular chffs of a sandy clay, in which are strata of
recent fossil shells and the remains of trees.

N.E. J- N., distant G miles from Leadbetter Point, is a sharj) narrow cUff,
fiO feet high, making out into tho bay, which is Avearing it away, and has
exposed many large basaltic boulders. No other place on tho bay presents
this geological feature.*

Tho peninsula is a long flat marshy and sandy plain, elevated but a few
foot above the level of the sea, and covered, like the entire surface of this
country, with a dense growth of gigantic forest trees, principally spruce,
fir, and cedar, with a few specimens of maple, ash, and black alder. Tho
spruce frequently attains a diameter of 8 feet. The Indian name of the
peninsula is Tee-choots.

It is asserted by settlers here that boats, canoes, &c., which have broken
adrift and gone out of the bay, have in every instance been found on
the beach North of the entrance, and generally between it and Gray'.s
Harbour.

From Cape Shoalwater to Point Hanson, tho southern side of the entrance
to Gray's Harbour, the distance is 13 J miles, and the hard ocean sand-

• The shoals arc covered with shell-fish, amongst which the oyster is most ahundant,
and the principal article of export. They are small, and have a coppery taste. Codiisli
and halibut abound ; sturgeon, said to bo of good quality, are plentiful ; and salmon, of
several varieties and excellent flavour, exist in infinite uumbera. In spring, vast shoals of
small herring entur tho bay. In winter, wild fowl are innumerable, but those have been
made shy by tho bud shooting of the Indians. Black and white swan, geese, mallards-
canvas-bai^ks, &c., always reward the experienced sportsman.

W'VSniNGTON TEERITORY.
;l ,„„.,.« .. ..*. r^ .... -. '.» -« " "»" * "^

H.„«n o„ tho South, and .he -'''"''^-'^ttK fhe L par. of I'oh..
The northern end of «.« i.h.nd ■» '""-^^^ * ™ „„e.qnaker of a mile
Brown at low water, but at high t.dc the '•««•'« "^ Vj, ,„„ Joint
apart. The South end of the "'"f '»• ?^^ '" ^^. V., with a breadth of
Han»n •. it. length U li ■"^^•, »»'' '';-^^l''p„^t H— and the idaod
two to foar hundred yard,. «"« '"'y '^^""•° ' ^„e at low water, and
li„ the N.E. end of a .hoal or n;,* ^ound, bar ^^ ^^^^.^,^^,^

slretehing S. 16- W. for U mtle, -* "° ""J^^j ,^0 South end of M
0, a mile. Between the N.E end ''<«"'J^^^^^ ^,,.„i^^u„ „, . mile,

^r ."Tft fi::: ' ;t ra—wri^ed m .l.

and a depth of 16 tatlioms. luo . , , .i,r„„ nuarters of a

The peninsula te..inated hy Point Hans^s aW t^^r^e ^..^ ^^^^ ^

„.ile in breadth, and 3^ miles long, -^ ^^'^^^^^^^ ,,,n marsh. The
„.ile of the point, which is a low sand-spt embraong ^^ _^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^
generaldirectionofthepemnsulaisN.W.,ana ^^^^ ^^^

lith a width of half a -l;- f°f°^^ fj;,^J ;;Lud flats To secure
entrance. More than half of th.s bay is occupi d by ^ ^^ ^^^

the best position here, bring the -^^^^^"'^^'22^;^ ,^, channel in 3*
S. 71° W., distant three-quarters of a -J' ^^^/^^-nfluence of the South
fathoxns. This position places the vessel out of

Channel running to ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ _^,,,.,,e but unsafe

The anchorage under Pomt Brown . ^^^^^ .^ ^^ ^^^^^^_

to a vessel without heavy ground tackle. At this p ^^

tion against the full sweep of the heavy summ r ^nd. ^^^' ^^.^

ti.es counter to the strong -«- -n tho W^ a^^ ^J^^^^^ ^^^^^^^
short sea. Another -^^^/^/^the middle shoal, which, being

rr.r:r::i^e ters -^^^^^--r

about a mile in breadth and 4| -^;;°;\; ^ j; ,^,,e is th^

by S. The bay shore is covered w:th fir. ^he outer ^^^^^^ ^^^

Jentof asand waate, stretching '^-f\'^^^l''''^^^^^, that the sand
tiniber and this waste is a large pond or lagoon and ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^

i« covered with coarse beach ^^^^ ^^/^^^^^^c \rom the North end of

^^^'^r'r/7wr:rTr::;he o^ --^^^-^^^ ^-^ ^^^^

S: o^r^bt^'^-bra r aose under the bay shore of this penm-

GEAY'S HARBOTTR— CHEHALIS RTVER.

247

half tide by

ned l)y Point
on the North,
part of Point
arter of a mile
die from Point
th a breadth of
I and the island
low water, and
)f three-oigbths
auth end of Eld
ghths of a mile,
867.

ee-qiiarters of a
to within half a
all marsh. The
; lies South Bay,
;horage near the
flats. To secure
t. Hanson to bear
the channel in SJ
mce of the South

)rtable but unsafe
there is no protec-
s-hich, blowing at
I, very disagreeable
anchorage unsafe,
loal, which, being
•ular channel ; but
conflicting currents
ig enough to tear a
by Point Brown is
il direction is S.E.
re is the commence-
:,iver. Between the
itside that the sand
bushes, and cut up
m the North end of
ite parallel and near
shore of this penin-

sula runs a narrow crooked channel, wliieh Whidljey surveyed for 2 miles,
and in which ho gives J fathoms.

From Point Hanson the mouth of the CMialis River bears N. h'l° E.,
distant 12 miles, and this course is the general direction of the IS.E. side of
the bay, except the indentation forming Houth Bay. The first bluff inside
the point is named Stearns, bearing N. 57° E., and distant 5i miles. Around
the south-west side of this bluff comes Johti^s River. Within a nul(> and a
half of the mouth of the Chehalis the Neuskah'l enters, coming from tli"
south-east.

From Point Brown, Point New lies N. o!) K., distant IJ miles, and hav-
ing off it two rocks, now called Ned's llocks. Urackenridge liluff commem.PH
about three-quarters of a mile East of Point New, and extends tlu-ee mih-s
eastward to the low land bordering the Ifoqitiamts River. From Point New
the shore-line runs nearly straight to the Clielialis, distant 8 miles, and the
point of St<3am'8 Bluff lies S. 4.^ E., distant 4i miles. To the N.N.W. of
the line joining points New and Brown, lies North Hay, consisting of uu
immense mud-flat, bare at low water, and having an area of 22 square
miles. At the head of it lies Saddle Hill. In the stretch oi 4 miles N.W.
of Point New are throe small streams, called the Typso, Chinois, and Uumlo-
lapy, emptyuig into North Bay. They work narrow, crooked channels
through the mud flats, but at low Avator there is not sufficient depth to carry
a whale-boat through them.

By measurement, we find that more than nine-tenths of Gray's Harbour
is bare at low water. Inside the entrance the area of the surface of the
water, bounded by the flats bare at low tide, is only 4 a square miles. This
will give a fair idea of the limited extent of the harbour. Thi-ough the flat.H
lying between this available space and the Chehalis, run two contracted
channels. The northern commences at a point 2 miles N. 67" E. from Point
Brown, is the only available one, and would require buoying out for its
entire length. For about 6 miles it is three-eighths of a mile wide, with a
depth of 4 fathoms. The South channel commences just inside Point Hanson,
and is very contracted and shallow. The flats are so extensive, and the mud
80 soft in places, that it is impossible to reach the shore except at high tides.
This fact has retarded the development of the trade in lumber, although the
shores are heavily timbered.

The trade of the bay amounts to carrying the siqijJies needed by a few
settlers, and by the small military post on the Chehalis.

The Chehalis Biver has been navigated by a small steamboat for 20
miles, to the mouth of the Lah(yp, which comes from the northward. The
country behind the bay appears low and flat, and well watered by the
Chehalis and tributaries, which drain a section well timbered, and dotted
with many small prairies and bottom lands.

Copalis River is little known. Fnim Point Brown the shore-line trends

218

WASHINGTON TEREITOEY.

about N.N.W. for 10 miles to tho mouth of the Copalis. The barren waste
of I'oiiit Brown continues along this shore, commencing with a breadth of
over 1 mile, stretching from the ocean to a dense forest of fir, and growing
narrower as it approaches the Ocpalis, where the timber comes to the
water's edg«.

This stream is about 100 yards wide, but tho mouth is almost closed by a
Imr. Upon its banks reside the Copalis tribe of Indians, from whom the
river derives its name. Like all the streams on this coast, it abounds in
salmon, but those caught hero are celebrated for their richness of flavour.

From the Copalis to Point Grenville the shore nms N.W. i N., about 16
miles, and continues low, nearly straight, and bordered by sand beach,
which changes to shingle, disposed in long rows parallel to the coast. These
ridges of shingle dam the mouths of many small streams and form ponds,
abounding in trout, and well stocked with beaver and otter, according to
the accounts of the Indians. The high land also approaches much nearer
the beach, and forms sandstone cliffs, with rocky ledges projecting into
the ocean.

P'^INT GRENVILLE is a bluff rocky promontory, stretching westward
about a mile, and then southward about a quarter, forming a very contracted
and exposed roadstead ; with the 3-fathom curve extending half a mile from
the beach, compelling vessels, except of very light draught, to anchor so far
out, that the point and the rocks off it afford but little protection from the
N.W. winds. It is useless tluring the winter months. The point has high
hills lying behind it, and many rocks immediately ofiP it. Two of these,
about 73 feet high, lie E. by S., 400 yards distant ; another Ues S.W. f S.,
lialf a mile distant. This, we believe, is the one that shows a large perfo-
ration through it, when viewed from the S.E. or N.W. It has 5 and 6
fathoms all round it. Others stretch along the coast to the N.W., one of
them showing from the South as a leg-of-mutton sail. The bluff itself is
composed of fine sandstone, is very steep, and may be ascended by a difficult
trail, which is used by the Indians. It is said to be a great resort for sea
otters, which are hunted by the natives.

North of Point Gren\'ille to Cape Flattery the shore is bold and rocky,
with occasional short reaches of sand-beach. The timber comes down to
the water ; moderately high hills approach the coast, through which empty
numerous small streams, whilst the irregular Olympus range looms up far
in the interior. In winter these mountains are covered with snow, which
lies in the gorges and valleys nearly the whole summer. Mount Clympm is
the highest peak of the range. It attains an elevation of 8, 1 38 feet, accord-
ing to determinations made in 1841 ; lat. 47° 45' N., long. 122° 37' W.

Que-ni-utl River. — The mouth of this small stream is between 3 and 4
niiles N.W. by W. from Point Grenville, and is almost closed by the
shinglo and gra\cl thrown up by the surf. There is, however, a controcted

lie barren wa.sto
ith a breadth of
Sr, and growing
?r comes to the

nost closed by a
from whom the
t, it abounds in
Bss of flavour.

i N., about 16
by sand beach,
;he coast. These
ind form ponds,
or, according to
les much nearer

projecting into

tching westward
I very contracted
half a mile from
to anchor so far
tection from the
) point has high
Two of these,

Ues S.W. f S.,
^8 a large perfo-

It has 5 and 6
18 N.W., one of
lie bluff itself is
ded by a difficult
it resort for sea

bold and rocky,
comes down to
gh which empty
ge looms up far
ith snow, which
fount Clympm is
138 feet, a^cord-
22° 37' W.
)etween 3 and 4
t closed by the
ver, a contracted

DESTRUCTION ISLAND. 249

opening for the passage of canoes in calm weather. The closing of the
entrance has so dammed the river as to form a smaU lake inside, upon the
>.anks of which is situated a village of the Queniutls, a race of Indians
hostUe to all other tribes. Combined with others to the northward, they
have ever been notorious for their hostility and vindictiveness to the whites.
Several Spanish, English, and Eussian vessels and their crews were in
former times taken and destroyed. Hence we meet with the name Destruc-
tion Island, Isla de Dolores, Punta de Martires, &c., in this immediate
vicinity. The river is said to rise in a lake at the foot of the mountains.

For 4 miles above the Queniutl the coast trends in the same direction,
N.AV. by W., is composed of sandstone cHffs, and bounded by many pre-
cipitous rocks, the height and direction of which are generally that of the
clifif. In the coast survey reconnaissance of 1852 one is placed 2 J mUes off
•shore, in lat. 47° 27', and the vessel's track is laid down inside of it. A
great many large rocky islets lie close inshore in this vici-ity, but north-
ward the coast is nearly clear to Destruction Island. It maks a slight curve
eastward, and alternates with bold yellow cliffs and low shores.

DESTRUCTION ISLAND.-This island is the only one found deserving
the appellation after leaving the Farallones. It is about 150 high, quite
flat on the top, covered with grass, but destitute of trees, and has high per-
pendicular sides of the same height as the cliffs on the main. It is said that
there are some remarkable perforations through a rock near it, but these are
doubtless only seen in particular directions, for in passing close to it we
have never noticed them. On the eastern end were formerly some rude
Indian huts. In Vancouver's time he found two or three dwarf trees at
either end.

In running along the coast 10 miles off, it is very difficult to make out
this island, because, being between IJ mile of the main, it is projected
against the coast cliffs, and cannot be distinguished from them until close
upon it. It is narrow, but about IJ mile long in a N.N.W. direction, run-
ning parallel with the coast, and has rocks for a mile off its southern end.
A reef and sand-bank is represented as stretching thence W.N.W. 3 miles
to broken water, and from there running nearly straight to the northern
end. A detailed examination of this locality might prove that good refuge
cc ' be had under the island during haavy S.E. and S.W. weather. No
winter harbour of refuge exists between Point Eeyes and Nee-ah Bay,
unless this be such, in which case it is of very groat importance. This
island is called Ida de Dolores upon old Spanish maps.*

• It received its present name, by which it is only known on the coast, in 1787, from
Captain Berkely, who ssnt a long-boat from King George's Sound to explore as far South
^is lat. 47". The crow of a smaller boat entered a shallow river, and rowed up some dis-
t^ince, where they were attacked and murdered by the Indians.

•rwn:

W-H i i? | f *

^^^^'^ ^ I ■'■^ i m m

260

WASHINGTON TERRITOEY.

From Destruction Island northward the shore is composed of cliffs which
form a regidar curve to a point bearing N.W. | W. from the North end of
the island, and 1 1 miles distant ; thence the shore runs nearly straight on
that course for 10 to 2 miles, high, abrupt, and well-marked rocks standing
a mile f^m shore The outer one is bold, and covered with tall tr'ies, but
the inner one is bare. They are in lat. 47° 58', long. 124° 41'. Many
others, but smaller, lie inside of them, and 19 fathoms are, found close out-
side. Along this stretch the shore is Irregular and bluff, with many high
rocky islets off it. A stream opens about midway in the stretch.

In the indentation northward of Destruction Island, and about 4 miles
from it, empties a small stream called Hooch by the Indians.

FLATTEST BOCKS. — From the two rocks just mentioned to Cape
Flattery in 48° 23', the coarse is almost N.N.W., passing through a group
of high, well-marked rocky islets, in lat. 48° 12' N., named the Flattery
Bocks. Before reaching these the coast-line curves about a mile eastward,
with a bluff shore nearly free from rocks for about 8 miles, when a large
white rook, half a mile out, looms up prominently, and is distinctly seen
against the main land.

Flattery Bocks extend between 2 and 3 miles from shore ; the outer ledge
is awash, with one islet in it, and the track of the coast surveying steamer
is laid down inside of it, with soundings in 9 to 20 fathoms. High, abrupt,
timbered islets lie inside, with their ocean faceri nearly perpendicular, about
150 feet higb, and sloping landward. Where destitute of trees, these are
covered with grass, bushes, &c. The latitude of the rooks is 48° 12' N.

From Flattery Bocks we find a high rocky coa»t, bordered by outlying
rocks for 8 miles, when a low sand beach occurs, receiving a small stream
which runs E.N.E. and finally North, behind the mountain constituting
Cape Flattery, to within 200 yards of the beach in Ne6-ah Bay. A rise of
20 or 30 feet of the sea would make Cape Flattery an island extending 5
miles (W»N.W.) by 3 miles in breadth. This creek is used by the outer
coast Indians daring the prevalence of heavy winter gales, when the passage
outside the cape would be impracticable.

From Point Qrenville to Cape Flattery the hills rising from the coast are
about 2,000 ft. high, densely covered with trees, and cut up by innumerable
valleys. The shore is inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians accustomed
to war, end bitterly hostile to the whites. They are far superior to the
Indians fotfnd along the southern coast. These villages are heavily stock-
aded, and the houses made of cedar boards, which they have out with great
industry from the tree. Their houses are very large, and partitioned off
into stalls for each family. The numerous streams emptying upon the coast
afford them a never-failing supply of the finest salmon ; and to obtain means
of barter with white traders, they fearlessly attack and capture the different ^
apecies of whale on the coast.

of cliffs which
le North end of
irly straight on
I rocks standing
I tall troes, but
,24° 41'. Many
found close out-
trith many high
•etch,
d about 4 miles

itioned to Cape
through a group
,med the Flattery
a mile eastward,
es, when a large
is distinctly seen

; the outer ledge
lurveying steamer
I. High, abrupt,
pendioular, about
f trees, these are

is 48° 12' N.
lered by outlying
,g a small stream
intain constituting
[i Bay. A rise of
island extending 5
used by the outer
1, when the passage

from the coast are
up by innumerable
[ndians accustomed
far superior to the
J are heavily stock-
have cut with great
and partitioned off
bying upon the coast
and to obtain means
capture the different

^ ^^T

(),i.l<->i '

/■jyy ."-.'

H M l«URIt, 53 fLElt STUttr. 101

" ■/ . »n _

B:iv V

lu'

orazi

' 11 7 14 li l(

^^^M^a-^

H.Wr^ <;> Vl''l«>",^rmw.v nsf iHiK
^^ '"fort NISVUA1.1.Y

try

R M l«URIt M fLEtT STRttr. lONOOH

^ril^^^^i^^

30'

^^^^^^^

THK STKAIT OF JUAN DK FUCA. 2ftl

THE STRAIT OF JUAN OE FUCA.

Tho discovory of this important Htrait was tho sultjoct of much coiitroToriiy.
It was attributed, in u narrative piiMishod in PurchiiM'H I'il{);rini8, to a Gro<<k
pilot, known as Juan do Fuca, but whoHo real name was AfjO'-tolos Valcri-
anos. Ho related that he found, in lf)0'2, a channel here leading from tho
racific into tho Atlantic, which was then namod tho Strait of Anion. Much
doubt woH thrown on thin stotemont, and, by a Hingular fatality, its entrance
was passed unpercoivod by Cook and others, so that these uncertainties
seemed to bo coniirmed, and tho strait wos not re-discovered till Capt. Ken-
drick entered it in the American sloop IVashington in 1789. It was well
surveyed by Captain George Vancouver in 1792, and tho very singular
character of the inlets diverging from it to the 8.E. wore then first ascer-
tained. The shores of the strait were surveyed by Captain (afterwards
Admirol) 11. Kellett, in the Herald, in 1847, and to tho south-east of tho
strait, Vancouver's work was re-examined Jby Commodore Wilkes, TT.S.N.,
but he found but little to correct. More complete surveys of some of the
ports, &c., have been since mado by tho olFicers of the U.S. coast survey,
since their occupation of tho Washington territory, and it is to tho last-
named authorities that we owe most of the subsequent description of the
South side of the channel, leaving that of the opposite shore of Vanvouver's
Island for the ensuing chapter. We have also derived some of the following
from tl accounts given by Captain G. H. Biohards, E.N.

From its geographical position, the strait is liable to all those sudden
vicissi ^udes of weather common to high northern latitudes ; and in few parts
of the world is the caution and vigilance of the navigator more called into
action than in entering it.

The breadth of the strait between Cape Flattery, its southern point, and
Bonilla Point, Vancouver Island, its noi-thern, is 1 3 miles ; within these
points it soon narrows to 11 miles, and carries this breadth on an East
course for 40 miles, or until Bace Islands bear N.E. by E., distant, 10 miles ;
it then takes an E.N.E. direction for a further distance of 14 miles to the
shore of the continent, or more properly Whidbey Island.

Between Bace Islands and the southern shore the breadth of the strait is
8 miles, after which it immediately expands to 17 miles, leading northwards
to the British posspssions by various channels among the labyrinth of
islands known as the Haro Archipelago, and southward to those of the
United States, by Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound.

The coasts of Fuca Strait are remarkably free from danger, and may be
approached safely within half a mile. There is one breaking- rock which

JL»

■y-v-5

252 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.

Ho8 nearly that distance off the Went point of Crescent Bay on the Bouthera
Bhore The soundings in the centre are of great depth, but within H mile
of either shove there is generally under 40 fathoms. On both sides of the
strait there are several anchorages or stopping places which may be taken
advantage of by vessels, either inward or outward bound when meeting
with adverse winds.

On the northern or Vancouver Island shore of the strait the hil s nse
graduaUy, and are densely wooded, but near the coast attain to no great
olevation ; on the southern side the almost perpetually snow-clad mountains
known as the Olympian range, rise more abruptly, and vary in elevation
from 4,000 to more than 7,000 feet ; but though exceedingly grand in their
rugged outline, present no very marked summits as seen from the strait, nor
any great variety in their features.

In the outer part of Juan de Fuca Strait there is no very great strength
of tide ; it varies from 1 to 4 knots, seldom so much as the latter, unless
near Cape Flattery ; but when approaching the more contracted part in the
neighbourhood of the Race Islands, which receives the first rush of the
pent-up waters of the Strait of Georgia, strengthened and diverted by the
labyrinth of islands which choke up its southern entrance, it is not sur-
prising that eddies, races, and irregularities occur which almost baffle any
attempt at framing laws which may not rather embarrass than assist the

seaman. _ « i j a ^•

CAFE FLATTERY or Classet is a remarkable point of land, and Ois-
tinctly seen at a distance of 35 miles, rising gradually from the sea to a
Ihickly-wooded mountain nearly 2,000 feet high, with an irregular shaped
summit, and falling again at the distance of 3 or 4 miles to the eastward.
When seen from the southward or S.W. it has the appearance of an island,
being separated by a stretch of low land from hdls of the same or gi-eater
elevation, which rise again immediately southward of it.

On a nearer view, the headland itself, with its wild off-lying rocks, over
which the sea is almost constantly breaking, presents no inviting appearance.
It is a rugged sea-worn cliff, of no great elevation, and rising gradually to
its more prominent feature, a densely wooded mountain. From the cape
the coast trends E.N.E. for 4 miles to Nee-ah Bay, and though no positive
dangers exist half-a-mile from the shore eastward of the cape, there is
generally a heavy swell with irregular tides, and vessels axe by no means
recommended to approach it within a mile.

Tatouch or Tatoosh Island, lying W.N.W. half a mile from Cape Flat-
tery, is a steep, almost perpendicular rocky islet, bare of trees, and 100
feet high, with some reefs extending a short distance off its western side.
The lighthouse, known among seamen as Cape Flattery light, stands on the
summit of the island, which, with its outlying reef, is the most western
portion of the United States. A leaning rocky column, 75 feet high, and 25

:^«L

k'vy', *

;ay on the Bouthem
but within H mile
I both sides of the
hich may be taten
und when meeting

strait the hil's rise
; attain to no great
low-clad mountains
i vary in elevation
ngly grand in their
from the strait, nor

very great strength
ts the latter, unless
ntracted part in the
le first rush of the
md diverted by the
ranoe, it is not sur-
ih almost bafile any
■rass than assist the

at of land, and dis-
Y from the sea to a
an irregular shaped
ilea to the eastward,
aarance of an island,
' the same or gi-eater

off-lying rocks, over
) inviting appearance,
id rising gradually to
;ain. From the cape
ad though no positive
jf the cape, there is
isels are by no means

mile from Cape Flat-
are of trees, and 100
e off its western side.
ry light, stands on the
:', is the most western
1, 75 feet high, and 25

NEEAH BAY.

253

feet diameter, is seen to tho S.E. close under the cape. It is sometimes
called De Fuca's Pillar or Pinnacle Rock.

The LIOHTHOUSE consists of a keeper's dwelling of stono, with a tower
of brick, whitewashed, its height being 66 feet above the summit of tho
island. It shows a. fixed white light of the first order, elevated 162 feet, and
in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 18 miles, so that a vessel
from the southward will make it before beii g up with the Flattery Eocks.
Its position is in lat. 48" 23' 15" N., and long. 124° 43' 50" W.

Duncan Eock lies N.W. by N. a mile from Tatouch Island ; it is a small
low black rock, a few feet above water, but the sea always breaks over it.
There is deep water between it and the island, but vessels are recom-
mended not to take the passage unless compellad to do so.

Dontze Rock, with 3 fathoms water on it, lies about a quarter of a mile
N.W. by N. from Duncan rock, and frequently breaks. Sailing vessels are
recommended not to approach the lighthouse on Tatouch Island nearer than
3 miles. In the immediate neighbourhood of Cape Flattery, and among
these rocks, the tides are strong and irregular.

NEEAH BAY is between Koikla Point and Wy i'.da Island ; the latter
half a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is narrow, and covered with
pine trees. Koikla or Eoitlah Point, is 4 miles E.N.E. from the lighthouse
on Tatouch Island. Tho bay offers a safe and convenient anchorage to
vessels meeting S.W. or S.E. gales at the entrance of the strait. The
western shore is steep and cliffy ; a reef extends for more than a cable off
Koikla Point, and within the point a sand-bank, which dries, extends off a
quarter of a mile at low water. The head of the bay is a low sandy beach,
on which there is generally 3ome surf rolling. On the eastern side of the
bay off the S.W. side of the Wyadda (or Woaddah) Island, a rocky ledge
and shoal water extend for 3 cables, and the holding ground is not so good
on the island side.

A good berth will be found in Neeah Bay, in 6 fathoms sandy bottom,
with the outer point of Wyadda Island N.E. by N., and Koikla Point
W. by N. A short distance within this position kelp grows in large
patches all over the bay, a:.d some care is necessary in selecting a berth.
Large sailing vessels may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms a littie outside the above
bearings, in the centre of the bay, with the outer point of the island N.E.
by E. It is high water iu the bay at 12" 33™ ; springs rise 7J feet ; neaps,
4f feet.*

• Commander R. C. Mayne, R.N., who was engaged on the survey under Captain G. H.
Richards, says in his interesting bouk that the Indians muster here in large numbers,
owing to tho quantity of cod, halibut, and other fish, on the bank running out from thj
shore of the island. The fishery will, no doubt, at some future time, prove a source of
considerable profit to tho colony.

mMtuP '

JUAN DE FITCA STRAIT.

meut; although behind tfco '"^'^'J^' ^^^ f,„^ Admiralty Inlet and
fertile land, which, howeyer, can only be reachea

Puget Sound. ^ ^j distance is 15 mile6.

CNLLAM BAY.-From Neeah to ^f^^^^Jj^^^i.^, j^ nearly straight,

The intervening coa^t, which trendsman ^^^^^^

elevation.* . ., „„e direction for 8 miles

The coast from Callam Bay ^^J^ ^^J^^ ^^^e columnar-shaped

to Pillar Point, so caUed ^^ ^ ^m.^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ _^^^ ^_

rock, a little remarkable, ''^''l^'^^^^^^^^^,^ few objects present them-
rally thickly wooded from --°^^\*; "f^ "p„,uions The cast on the
selves by which vessels may ^^^^^^^^^^^ZIL^ there is a considerable
3,ast side of ^^^^:Z^::t:^^. by N.. with a gentle curve
r^:;: pTak^^^^^^^^^^ the Z... emptymg itself Just oas.ward of a

low point 7 miles --^ward onhe peak^ ^^^^^^,^^ ^^^^ .^^ ,^^^^

Striped Peak is rather remarkable trom J^^^^^^^ ^^ ^.^^^ ^ut the

and from which it received ^'l-^^J ^^^^, ^ U mile westward
landsUp is rapidly becoming ^^^f «^;*«^^^^^^^^ -^^ of Crescent Bay, which
of the peak, and a third o a mile off theJVe^t P ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ .^ ^^^

is merely an indentation. l-«;/°^^;r';f ^'^e of the strait. Westward of
only danger which occurs on the ou^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^„^,,,,,

this, some kelp grows a short ^^^^^^^^ / ^ ,„d tere the depth of

;r Poi.t i. deepen .40 Mho..^. IttnTs^H Tea., W«n

Obwtratory and AngeWs po . ^_^j^_^__^^ ^, ^

„il„a »ide iu a. East and W.. "«*°°^ ,, „„, j^, jeplh yario,

E. b, N. ..d W. b, S. «« ->;; ;^:° ^:'::L ^e*. >pa« a ,ho«

r.:.':«Hrr:.r:r/n...a.>^a^^

.hip ,»■. l«.t it c»»«"'»»' «» !»' ""'■ •' '
l,«t (be taUom ■• "I' in«S"'"''

wind, and if
he assistance

ifit for settle-
uch rich and
ilty Inlet and

, is 15 Hiiles.

sarly straight,

h {Seal Bock),

s eastward of
eastern bluff,
1,000 feet in

on for 8 miles
lumnar-shaped
country, genc-
presont them-
he c last on the
J a considerable
1 a g3ntle curve
t oasi.ward of a

g down its face,
ft. high, but the
I mile westward
cent Bay, which
-ater; this is the
t. Westward of
n the somewhat
here the depth of
ms; westward of

d Peak, between
and more than 2
trance points are
I the depth varies
cks lying a short
d shore. Angelon

coal not fit for stuaro-
■idge has deep water,

PORT ANOELOS-NEW DUNGENESS BAY. 2br,

Point, the eastern entrance point, is low ; tlie river i:iwha emptying itself
through it, forms a delta. Vossols may anchor within the line of the points
in from 6 to 9 fathoms.

POET ANGELOS or False Dungeness is 7 miles eastward of the East
point of Freshwater Bay, the intervening coast forming rather a deep indenta-
tion to tlie southward, off which as little as 3 fathoms water is found nearly
a mile from the shore. The North side of the port is bounded by one of
thoce low narrow sand or shingle spits which are a characteristic feature of
the country. This spit, which is named i:diz Hook, curves from a high bluff
in an E.N.E. direction for nearly 3 mUes, and forms a large and good har-
bour. On the North or spit side the water is deep, varying from 15 to 30
fathoms ; but southward of a line drawn through the centre there is excel-
lent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms in any part of the port. The outer
part of the spit is steep-to, and may be rounded close-to, after which the
port extends for 2i miles in a westerly direction, by more than a mile in
breadth. Although open to easterly winds, they do not blow home. A
large spar beacon painted tcMte has recently been erected on Ediz Hook,
wliich is a good guide to the entranr ^ during daytime. Fresh water is to be
obtained from streams on the South side of the port.

The spit is so low that at times the sea washes over it, and as it is impos-
sible to see it at any distance, vessels would be apt at night to run on it if
passing close to the southern shore of the strait. Dungennss light, therefore,
should not be brought to bear to the northward of E. by N. i N., which
will lead more than 2 mUes off, but as the spit is nearly 13 miles from the
light, the latter would not in all states of the weather be visible ; and at
night vessels should not go within the depth of 14 fathoms

NEW DUNOENESS BAY.-The shore from False Dungeness gradually
curves to the N.E., and about 8 or 9 miles from Ediz Hook, another long,
low, narrow sand-spit, covered with gross, stretches from the bluff shore in
a general N.N.E. direction for 3 J miles, forming the north-western side of
the roadstead of New Dungeness. A shoal with 2* fathoms extends N.N.E.
for half a mile from the end of the point, and a heavy tide-rip runs over it
at the change of the currents. On the inside, 1 mUe from the eastern ex-
tremity, another narrow sand-spit stretches U mile southward towards the
main shore, forming a large inner shoal bay with a narrow opening, through
which the water passes as over a rapid ; at low tide, abreast this point, ia a
small stream, on the western side of which is a bluff 60 feet high, and
upon it is a large village of the Clallums. The shore eastward of the stream
18 low, swampy, and covered with trees and brush ; it forms the southern
or main shore of the roadstead, and off it are extensive mud-flats, which
are bare at low water for five-eighths of a mile, and run as far as Washing-
ton or Budds harbour ; shoal water exists for some distance outside these
flats. About 20 fathoms are found a quarter of a mile South of the light-

258 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT,

house point, the depth regularly docreaaing across the bay with a soft tena-
cious muddy bottom.

Fresh ioater may be obtained in abundance at the above Stream, but boats
must obtain their supply at low tide, and come out when the tide has suffi-
ciently risen. , „ x, - . ■
LIGHT.— At about a sixth of a mile within the outer end of the point is
a structure consisting of a keeper's dweUing, of stone, with a tower of brick ;
the upper half being a dark lead colour, the lower half white. The tower
is 92 feet high, and its elevation above the sea 100 feet. It exhibits ^ fixed
white light of the third order, which should be seen from a distance of 15
miles. Lat. 48° 10' 59" N., long. 123° 6' 7" W.

Kfog hell, of 1,100 pounds weight, has been placed upon the outer ex-
tremity of ^ho lighthouse point at New Dungeness, and it will be sounded
every ten seconds during foggy or thick weather day or night.

The usual and best anchorage in New Dungeness Bay, is to bring the
lighthouse to bear about N. by E. i E. half a mile distant, where 10 fathoms
are found a third of a mile off the beach. With the lighthouse bearing
N W by N. three-quarters of a mUe distant, the same depth and bottom
are found, the nearest shore will bear South 1 i mile, and the mud flat three-
quarters of a mile in the same direction ; from this position a vessel can
readily get under weigh and clear the point.
It is high water, full and change, at New Dungeness, at 3^, and the rise

is 5 feet.

The Coast from New Dungeness trends to the S.8.E. for nearly 7 miles,
and forms a deep indentation, in the western comer of which is Washington
(or Budds) harbour, and in the eastern Port Discovery. The entrance of
the former is almost closed by a long sand-spit extending from the eastern
side, leaving a narrow channel with only 2 fathoms water, which deepens

within to 13 fathoms.

PORT DISCOVERY, the harbour where Vancouver anchored and rehtted
his ships, and from whence he commenced his exploration of these regions
in May 1792, is an extensive inlet running in a southerly and south-east
direction for 6 miles, with an average breadth of li mile ; the general depth
of water is from 20 to 30 fathoms, but an anchorage may be had on the West
side H mile within the entrance in 15 fathoms, close to the shore. At the
head of the port th'^re are 10 fathoms, but a mud flat extends for a mile

from the shore. . j

Protection Island lies immediately off the entrance of the port, and
shelters it from N.W. winds. The North side of the island is shoal for half
a mile off, and there is a 3-fathom patch bearing N.W. 2 miles from its
North point ; reefs extend also off the East and West points lor half a mile,
but there is a clear deep channel in on either side. A spit extends a short
distance off Clallum Point, the western point of entrance.

a soft tena-

I, but boats
le has Buffi-

the point is
irer of brick ;
The tower
hibits a fixed
stance of 15

be outer ex-
be sounded

to bring the
re 10 fathoms
ouse bearing

and bottom
ud flat three-

a vessel can

and the rise

larly 7 miles,
J Washington
e entrance of
n the eastern
rhich deepens

d and refltted
these regions
md south-east
general depth
id on the West
here. At the
ds for a mile

the port, and
shoal for half
□ailes from its
.ov half a mile,
xtends a short

ADMIRALTY INLET-PORT T0WN8IIEND. 267

isf t?"^^ ?.^^''-^* '' "^'^^^ ^-N-^- ^-- Now Dungonoss light.
vl^lT :^T''^^'''''' ^^^--^Vilson Point on the Went 'and

wlnt.sh colour; and here commences that extensive and singular Hories of

i- rtLTnti; .tlr"^^^ ^" -^''-^ ^^ ^ — --^

. ^ w!i:~^,° Admiralty Head, which forms the inner eastern entrance
romtof heanlet and bears N.E. by E. 3^ miles from WU.on Point .
.A..^w.,te hght of the fourth order, elevated 119 feet above the moan 1 vo
of th sea, and v.s.ble in clear weather at a distance of , 7 miles. This Lh

Td the^^er ^^^^'**^ ''^ °"^^^^" ''''''' ^^^^-^ ^-^ ^^--l^-'l

poft'o'^LI!^ wT "" t ''' ^'^^" '^^ ^^"^-"^ '^'^^' -^ ••« the
andlf ;t r by a westerly gale, been compelled to bear up

subiect t " " \. '''''''"^' ' '''' '"'''"' '^'^ '''^^-' -tent it I
subject to a disagreeable sea during strong winds.

The entrance is between Wilson and Marrowstone Points, the latter bear-

on the same side is Hudson Point, the distance between which and Marrow-
stone Point IS also 1^ mile ; and betw-een these two points is more proj e"y

mile , and then S E. for about the same distance, the average breadth being
nrly 2 miles; the general depth of water is from 9 to 15 fathoms good
holding ground soft mud when within Hudson Point. Wil.on Point i.
low. with sand hillocks on its extreme ; a shoal spit extends for nearly half
a mile off it. Hudson Point should be rounded within half a mile or

At half a mile within Hudson Point there is good anchorage in the
Zr ' ''"'' ""^ *''' """"'''' " '' ''''^"'^' ^^^^'^ "^^^^ ^"^"^ the

The town of Port Townshend has increased very much since the discovery
of gold on Eraser River. No fresh water (1862) is to be had, but vessel.
can obtain a small supply near the military post. Some fine farms lie near
the town, and vegetables are plentiful at reasonable prices. The place was
noted for the rough character of its " beach combers."

A military post has been established on the bluff, 2i miles S. by W from
the town, and on a site which commands one of the most beautiful views
injhese waters, having the bluff and varied shores of the bay on either

MaJTowstc.r Point is a low sandy point stretching 300 yards eastward
from the base of the bluff, and forming an ludenlution on its southern face,
Mrth Pacijii.

'il^S'KtfPai^^lt-:^.— ^-^^-Tr-r - -r?-P— -^-j..^^

J.i

AliMlli.W.TV INIET-
1„ .noh„™.e .n.>- be had i., ,. f.*,..., ..th « ™™. o. odd, »v..

£^=:rr.st'".:-rrr.;:.-s;:'£

eaBtern side of the ^^^'- ^^^^^,^ „f ^ keeper's dwelling, with

The Lighthouse on Admiralty l ^^^^^^.^^ ^^ ^,^^ ^.^^^^ ^^

:^r^^e^;::s:)::f"^^^^

position is, lat. 48° 9' 22", long. 122 • .„,„,i_. and labyrinthine

""' , , , 'JrieL to be almo.t the only diglUo part for colo»,..-

r:;;i war;r;:u. tho ...«».,., .,.ed h,. ,t. o..^oa,
-"- rrthr If :t — r ix* e.pw a„d ..

The whole ot these inlets weie ^ and most of the names

,U, „..mblage of iatod wate,., addmg the ,..«.e. not g, , by V

chiefly th»» ot the offleer. of the exped.t.cn^ ^.^^^^w Md , «, mueh .o,

mirally Wet .un. S.t. by S. i S. let J "ine

„o Uuff. of apparently unijj- -«. J^'- » ""f -^^^^l^^, . ,„ p.;,,

,hn. abont 5 mde. *-» J' ^^ 1"^^^^... to which ha. keen given a>e
„Hh on. or two e,„„p. ^ '- -"^^^^^ ^,; „„,,,„, y^ ^^ , „i,e

name /to* /■«"<• "° '"' ^^ „ g rt of Oak Bay ; off this point .»
Northofthepomwh'* «<>-'*» «_>=• P ^^^ ^,^,^j, .„,„i

"'•'f rtrl':^ i» ;. !«*"<./, and .ha^ to th, E.S.E. d^titnte of
nulcB directly ahead .8 t. wnepienouely from this direc-

''"'^T'^^;/ TtTeVtdttation between it and Bush Poin, with
tion, 11. fl»«W' '"* i»"= ""T; . .. d ot the course 0«i ««!/

,„w land in the rear, i. i«...J|J. t'„t ;°/„„^„ „, p„t Towns-

r; ;: hi: rili^e.: a'tu'ird -t. Xh, depth otwa.er i. a . U
taThl, The Lngth of the bay is a miles, and its average width about
"'"''''■ • TO , f v„„lwealher Bluff is Hood's Canal; vessels bound

iu;::\: 17:1!^": --*- «» - «• -^ '•- "° "-• '-"^

► •■ Wp» ft;<^ ll Uj. l lNWlM,N. ll|l !M '«

or eddy inva-

rnshend, is a
alow, pebbly
, cliffs on the

[welling, with
)f t?ie light is
I geographical

i labyrinthine
i, which reach
bly fertile and
xt for coloniza-
by its original

>lored and Bur-
st of the names
;er Lord Hood.
, also surveyed
• by Vancouver,

lid ; so much so,
before the keel

9I course up Ad-
on either hand
After running
ore, a low point,
I been given the
luff point 1 mile
; off this point is
leadland, several
;.S.E. destitute of
ly from this direc-
Bush Point, with
e course Oak Bay
■s of Port Towns-
of water is 5 to 1 5
(rage width about

lal ; vessels bound
ass two low points

PORTS MADISON AND OlJCIIAin). 25f»

lying near together. The next or third course up the inlet is E.S.E. for 10
^.les, pas.„g on the eastward Double Bluff, which stretches north-enstward
fa mile, and r.es «00 or .00 feet, having its top covered w.tli wood. The
bluff unning also to the northward forms Useless Bay. This has deep wate

ZIX ? y' '"™'"^' *'*' ^''"*''«^" P°'°t "f Useless Bay is

Sat het Head. A similar bluff lios 2 miles E. by S. of it. These form the
southern extremity of Whidbey Island, in lat. .7^ .4'. and are the tu"n n,
pomts mto Possession Sound. lurmnt

Foulweather Bluff.-On the western side of the last mid-channel course is
Poulweather Bluff (already noticed), which is pendicular on ts N N W
f ce, and about 225 feet high, with heavy firs upon its summit. It slopes

well o I . . ?•' " '""*' ' "'^^ '''''^''-^ '^ ^*- - ^''<' ^-"^ -aking
woU ou , and destitute of trees or bushes; thence the western shore runt
nearly straight S.E. by S. for 10 miles.
At the end of the last course the inlet expands to a width of 7 miles. The

lien ''^^^r'^-^^f --V""" "P *'° '''''' '' ««-^- ^- 2^ -"- to
mi eL Tv ' "'^' '"^ '^' ^'''^' ^°^ "f ^'"«h«» I«1«»«J- Five

Ta bo, r""' '"■ ' '^'^^ '''' ''^'"^' ^""^« »« *° - --"-t little

harbour on the western side of the inlet, called Appk-tree Cove, having a

3ards up the inlet. There is no fre.sh water in the vicinity, but very .ood
timber may be procured suitable for boat-spars, and booms ' '

The inlet is here only 3 miles wide, and continues so to Point Jefferson, 2
miles southward of Apple-tree Cove. This is a moderately low, straight

b aVoff it? Tr'. '^'^"' '*' ^°' '''''''' ^^^^ *-^- S*-tchf„g
b load off Its eastern face for three-quarters of a mile is a 9-fathom shoal

:trs:ltjr' '^''''''' '-' -'-'' ^^- '-'^'^^ -^^^ "^'^* ^^^ and
PORTS MADISON and Orchard. _i>o.«. Je^rson is the northern side of

widthofT. 7T' "''^' ""^ ' ""^« ^-S-W- -th an average
width of 2 miles, and a large depth of water, except under Point Jeffers^
.here anchorage may be had in 10 and 15 fathoms, hard sandy bottom
with patches of kelp inshore. ^ oo«om,

The S.E. point of the entrance is low and sandy, making out from high

Z ' .• .""'^ f ^ "^"^ "' '' '' ^^« "-- -*-'- to a Natural
It the 8 W f ; 1 ? '""' ^" ''''''''' *^^ ^-^ M^d-- -w-mills
The hi ' '' ""'' " ^'^ ^"^ ''''''^' -*--« ^« ^ort Orchard

Ihe channel is somewhat crooked, but it has .3 and 4 fathoms water in it"
On the western side of this entrance are some white patches of beach, forme.'
by clam shells. Both sides of the entrance are bluff. Vessels ;o "e U
acauainted with the channel must enter under easy sail, and keep a llli

s 2

iKSaitt»ffi1Baa!l^s^^3q»^i«r.

~-^..v^ .'U ,>rg-r

[

ADMTBALTY INLET.

^^^ " . !,»•« the deepest water lies.

,„i„g o. e»h .U^. of *« v...e, <;»7;^- J-„r, * ,, J„ .Me, a berth
Ur g.t«.« th,o.gh gWe ho pom , 1 mUe off ^^ ^^_^ .^

„t nearly half a mile, to a^d . ''■°"' j"";* "^ p.^ M.di»oa, aad Adn,,-
BailWdg. btai «™ ':frj^;\? „ breadth, and it. go-e,.! dire-

,.,ty Inl,t. It i. » or; "^'"'"XV^Zi on the wtom ride, and the

«„„ i. S.E. hy 8^ f , 7^°Xead 1" e 8.E. part U U iade,..ed by ..»

Madison saw-tniU at the iNonu

Bmall harbours. ^j,, eastern shore of the inlet

Duwamish Bay-Abreast of Port M ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ .^ ^^^^^.^y

retreats, and there ^^^^ .^^^ 1 ca"ed West Point, which Torn^s
„.akes out into a very bng ow sand po^„t ^^.^^ ^^^ ^^^ ,^y

the extreme N.W. part of ^he entr«>ce^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^, ,,

E. by S. Oi miles, and has a w.dth of 2 m, ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^

J„«<..y Pom<, which 18 low and bare w>tn ^.^^^^^ ^^ ^^j^^,

Irply behind it, the course is ^^^^l^^JJ^^^^ ,, to 40 fathoms. Ou
Througl^ the centre of the bay the depth ^--^^^^^ ^0 fathoms cannot
2 North side of Battery Point ;;-^ JJ^^/,, ,eing too close to the
have a greater scope ^' f^^;; ^^^T^I ,.seri.^ town of AM (the
Bhore. On *^"^^;;^:.;y.f;2tr) The town has had several names, but

Ss tor/lut it Z ^^-^^^^'J^':^ ,,3 N.E. part of the bay, a little

The town of Seattle is on a small P" "* J ^^^ ^^,,,, ^nd stores, a

«,er 5 miles i-^^^^^ ^^V^J, /r:^ diversity buildings are to be

church, and a small --^f J^^J" Seattle has been proposed as the

erected (1862). It has but 1^"1« ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ penetrr ^ing the Cascade
terminus of the northern transWnentara ,P ^^^ ^.^^ ^^^ ^.^^^

::rthe;>rmer is only VO^^^^^^ ,^ ,, , ,, fathoms water.
The usual "-^«-?Vt the extreme point bearing about East, or
rV" SlttttaZ;! the bea^ . ^^ -;-l,,,. to this
\ls^0..nO..C^^^^^^ -- -^ ,,, , ,aented .rst by

point the shore is bluff and s ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ y^^^, g.E.

Lgle harbour, having ^^^^J^^^ ^Ir^estoration. by BMeUj mrlour
from its North point ; ^^^ ne^l^;* ^,,^ deep water all round

having off its entrance a ^^^Sy ^^^J^^^ ^, J"^^, ^ido and three-quarters

tj^^^ ^^- ^' ''' -'' '-'' ^"^"^ ' '"^'
aTd more commodious ''^^l^^fll\^,,,,on station of the Coast Survey
The geographical P^^^^^.^^^^^^''^^^^ ^22= 28' 15". From this point
upon this point is lat^ „ ' ^^^^^

Battery Point bears E. by IN. i^ .

COMMENCEHIENT BAY.

2G1

}8t water lies-
a Bide, a berth
rom it.

)n, and Admi-

general direc-

i Bide, and the

ideiited by two

ore of the inlet
but it gradually
it, which Torms
The bay runs
ith point, called
)d mound rising
Listant 4i miles.
40 fathoms. On
) fathoms cannot
g too close to the
,wn of Alki (the
veral names, but

af the bay, a little
uses and stores, a
Duildings are to be
n proposed as the
■f Mng the Cascade
the line HO miles
rkably favourable,

15 fathoms water,
ing about East, or
yards.

ort Madison to this
is indented first by
10 or 400 yards S.E.

by Blakehj ITarbour,
leep water all round
3 and three-quarters
,gle Barhour is larger

a of the Coast Survey
5". From this point

The approximate establishment at Kestoration Point is 4'' 4'". The mean
rise and fall of tides is 7.4 feet.

South of Eestoration Point, Admiralty Inlet opens westward for a couplo
of miles into a bay, in which is situated an island about throo-quartors of a
mile in extent, called Blake Island. From the N.W. part of the bay a nar-
row crooked pass, 3 miles long, leads to tlio southern part of Port Orcharu,
which spreads out into several arms. The pass is obstructed by rocks, and
is difficult of navigation.

Our last course brought us to Allen Bank, off the North end of Vashon
Island, with Blake Island to the westward, and throe-quartors of a mile
distant. This bank is noarly a mile in extent, and has as little as 10 fathoms
upon it, with a variable bottom, in somn phut's mud, and in others liard
sand. The N.E. point of Vashon Island is Dolphin Point ; the N.W. point.
Point Vashon ; the point abreast of it is Point Southworth ; ond the mile-
wide channel, commencing between the last two points, is Colvot Pansage,
running West of Vashon Island.

The main body of Admiralty Inlet continues about S.E. for 8 miles, then
S.S.W. 8 miles further, with an average width of 2 miles. In this stretch
the currents are moderately strong, the chances for anchoring few, and it is
sometimes calm while a fine breeze is blowing throutjh Colvos passage.

Brace Point lies on the East sido of the inlet, N.E. from Dolphin Point.
The round-topped point having two or throe lone fir-trees \\\nm it, and
situated on the same side of the inlet, 4 miles above Brace Point, is called
Point Pully ; the water is very deep close to it on either side.

Colvos Passage is the usual, we may say the invariably used ship-channel
towards Puget Sound. It is about a mile wide, with high bluff shores,
varied by numerous small, low sand-points making out from the face of the
bluff, and having deep water off them. The passage is 1 1 miles long to the
South end of Vashon Island, called Baloo Point, and it runs with a nearly
straight course S. by E. At 1 J mile inside of Point Vashon there is a small
curve in the shore- line called Fern Cove, with excellent anchorage in 5 and
10 fathoms. Abreast of Dalco Point on the western shore there is a small
harbour, with a narrow and shoal entrance, called Gig Harbour. Looking
out of the passage to the North, Mount Baker shows distinctly in clear
weather.

COMMENCEMENT BAY.— When abreast of Dalco Point this bay, at the
termination of Admiralty Inlet, opens to the E.S.E., and over its low back-
ground shows the high snow-covered peak of Mount Eainier. The general
direction of the bay is E. by S. i S., with a length of 3 or 4 miles, a width
of 2 miles, and a great depth of water up to the line of the extensive flat at
its head, which is backed by marsh.

Vashon Island, lying between the southern extremity of Admiralty Inlet
and Colvos Passage, is llj miles long, with an average width of 2i miles.

'9~saB»«8W"^»«i'^^«awsBBii»rrefe:gaK«iin gv ^ a !'' Wt yv':.?'f^^^ ij »m » y- « w»»* *

2g2 r^'<>ET SOUND.

n-w. ,.»n o„ i.. p™ - no. . -;-v -pea .--; --^

,,y a „.m„., 1... "fy "«'; "' !";, 7^,1^ TU .,»» lol^on„ .hi.
.U.„ .„„. •"-* ; -fj* ^itZ t:L. 4 o.'. „u,». ion,, ....
rennsula and tho l^'lnnd is an »>xct,.i«u ,,,„,« fathociB water

three-quarters of a >uilo wide, having a depth of 5 to 10 fathon^s

''^The i«land is high, with steep shore, covered ^th wood and nndergrowtl.
Its Burfaee is marshy in many parts that are quite elevated. The harbour
f med by it and the peninsula is known as QuarUr.aster Ilarlou.

Point Defiance and the Narrows.-The high, sharp yellow bluff acing
J^uth :ntrnee to Colvos Passage is called l.int ^^, ar^ We-
it and the western shore pass all the waters of Tuget hound. Ihis passage
::! d the iN^nw. Its average width is three-quarters of a mile^^ and
very^niform ; the shores are high, hold, and in some places rocKy. lo 2
Li L to the 8.E. its course is a regular curve The next turn is to the
Tou hward. and at a distance of 2 mileo in that direction the -t-s of th
sound ope; ahead, with a narrow pass betwc u the main and .ox Island to

*^PUGET SOUND is a most singular termination to Admiralty Tnlet. Tlie
fl^ty of ts shore, and its tine chmate. may possibly make it of consider
Ibt importance in future years. It received the name of Mr. Puget. the
officer under Vancouver's expedition, who originally surveyed it.

Puget Sound may be described as a collection of inlets, covering an area
of 15 miles squav;. the only entrance to which is through the Narr w
whi^clTf strongly fortified, would bid defiance to any attack, and guard its
entrance against any force.

The inlets, in the order in which they come from the entrance, have re-
ceived the names of Carr\ Casis, Ua.mer.ley\ TotteWs, LU «, ^«'^'';. -^
ZLon% from the officers of the United States' Exploring Expedition
^Ty a u;ited by passages, which form several islands and peninsulas. All
hese nlets are safe, commodious, and capacious harbours weU supphed
whh wa and the land around them fertile. On many of the islands and
" n^nluks are to be found slate and sandstone, which, though soft and
Se t sle places where it has been exposed on the surface, wiU be
found suitable for building purposes.

The aggregate shore-line of this sound, and the adjacent part of Admiralty
Inlet with Colvos Passage, to the North end of Vashon Island, ^ not less
than 3" miles. Upon its shores are situated the settlements of Steilacoom,
Nisnually, Olympia, and Newmarket.

SteUacoom.-On the eastern shore of Puget Sound, 9 miles South of pomt
Defiance, is situated the town or village of Steilacoom, upon a rising bluff.
It consis s of only a few houses. Fort Steilacoom stands about a mile m-

NISQUALLV— oLYMIMA.

2r,;j

linsula, formed

the inlot, and

.0 between this

iiilos long, and

fathoEiS water

id undergrowth.
. Tlie harbour
iirbour.

[low bluff facing
\ce, and between
1. This passago
rs of a mile, and
es rocljy. For 2
it turn is to the
ho waters of the
nd Fox Island to

iralty Tnlet. Tlie
ito it of consider-
)i Mr. Puget, the
yed it.

covering an area
ugh the Narrows,
jck, and guard its

entrance, have re-
IJld'H, Budd's, and
iloring Expedition ;
nd peninsulas. All
3urs, well supplied
of the islands and
b, though soft and
;he surface, will be

at part of Admiralty
1 Island, is not less
nents of Steilacoom,

miles South of point
upon a rising bluff,
ds about a mile in-

land, upon a piece of gravelly prairie, nml roaJa U\u\ from it. to tlio town
and the crook.

The usual anchorage is off tho small wharf, in l-> iathoniH, hard l)ottom,
and about 400 or 500 yards from tlio shore. An island lying 2| luileH west-
ward of that position is called McNeil, and bHtweon it and Fox (Rosurio)
Island, to the northward, there is a passage li milo wido TIk* paHsago on
the South .side of McNeil Island, betwoeu it und Anderson Islaiul, is gono-
rally known as Balch rassiige. It boars about S.W. by W. from tho an-
chorage, and is marked by a small wooded islet in it, called Eaglo Island,
off which lies rocky bottom, and vessoi.s keup closer to tho North sliore.
This passage is tho direct channel to Olympiu, instead of following tho broud
one southward of Steilacoom.

When approaching Steilacoom, or bound direct for Olympia, a patch of
kelp, with foul bottom and les.s than .'{ fathoms of water upon it, must bo
avoided. It boars S.8.E. 1 milo from tlie South end of Fox Island, and
N.W. by W. 1 J mile from Steilacoom Wharf. Tho tide-rip upon it and
abreast of the town is very great ; quite Bufliciont, with a little wind, to
Bwamp a small boat. The shores of tho main and islands aro bold, nearly
uniform in height, and covered with trees.

The corrected establishment of the port is 4'' 46"". Spring tides rise 11.1
feet, and neap tides 7.2 feet.

Nisqually, ft miles South of Steilacoom, and on the same side of the sound,
is at present a place of no trade or importance. It was one of the early
posts of tlie Hudson Bay Company, and is still occupied by them. An e.\-
tensive mud-flat exists off the mouth of the wide, marshy valley, but the
depth of water is very great close to it, and the anchorage room very mucli
contracted. The river Nisqually empties hero, and there are two small saw-
mills upon it.

Olympia. — It would be almost useless to attempt to describe tho route to
Olympia from Steilacoom, as a pilot or a good chart is absolutely necessary
in making the passage. The mid-channel course is 21 miles in length, and
its width from half to 1^ mile.

Olympia is situated at the head of Budd Inlet, which is 6 miles long and
three-quarters of a mile wide, and runs nearly South. The shores are steep
and wooded, and the head of the bay an immense mud-flat, behind which is
the town. It acquires prospective importance by being the capital of the
territory, but especially on account of its proximity to the Columbia Elver
valley, and to the headwaters of the Chehalis. Vessels are brought up to
the wharf at the highest tides, and then rest in the mud until ready to
leave.

The greatest difference between the highest and lowest tides is reported
to be about 24 feet, and is doubtless move than this when we cnmpuro its

' ^^%ag9a>?*???iPgtf»T m„ft . .,f.l,4^ l u.. r, ■ Wj t ^a r,-?* 04J » 'V> » >

j^ ^ '.^4>iM>

Ill

I .

„. TTOOP'S CANAL.

position with that of Steilacoo.. The approximate ™tod establishment

" Thrapproximate geographical position of the wharf i.. lat. 47^ 3', long.

"hOOD-8 CANAL.-The entrance to thi« arm of Admiralty Inlet lie- be-
twoon Basalt P..int and Foulwoathor IMufT. tho lattor bearing E. i «.. d. "
n ,uileH from the former. The HrBt nud-channol -"" « J^^ '^^^^^
„ointinir directly into Port Gamble, at the entran.^o to winch tbe houses ami
n^ are plainly visible; and parsing a high, round, wooded l-mBula on
S^^3 Wo/« de of the channel, and connected to the main by a na,.ow n ck
of low sand tea h. TIuh is froauontly mistaken for an inland, and .s ca 1 d
1 .rsTload. Between this head and Port Gamble the canal changes U
e "<! runs in nearly a straight lino B. by W. 40 n.iles. w^h an averag
^idth of li mile. In Int. 4r 21' N. it makes an abrupt turn, and runs for

I'i or 13 miles about N.E. u„..*

Por Ludlow.-Close to Basalt Point lie some rocks, with others about
half 1^81. called the Cok-o, Rock., among which is one 25 fee h,gh
but of small ext nt. Close inshore, and abreast of this, is a reck just am.h
at high to, but between the two runs a channel with 15 athoms water
hav fg so^. muddy bottom. The bright bluU' ^^-\'\^\^\^''''?
C JZ Eocks, and about 2 miles 8.W. by W. from Foulweathor Bluff, i
Tlrrlu Halfway between the Colvos Rocks and this pomt . the usual
entrance, over a Hand-bar having 4 i fathoms.

Of an the small harbours in these waters this has the preference, as it .
..n^lletolv land-locked, and protected from gales from every quarter by the

'■;:ralir -t'pling Foulweather Bluff, keep eW
store than to the wes. o avoid the strong current passmg round the low
t n which makes out from "lood's Head. Kun for the s ..-m,b, plamly
Tstht on the western side of the entrance to the bay. and when w.thm a
Xf It approach the eastern bluff within one-third of a m.lcm about 10
Tr islthoms gradually drawing closer inshore, and passmg between the
::er^randLer black can ;.oys. At the lowest tides the white one is
in 15 feet, the black in 12^, aud ..h. small spar buoy between them m Tuxd-
Lnn in H feet, but it rareL .l-.ws above water at any tide Af er pas.
n. these buoys the mill bears almost S.S.E. half a m,le distant. Steer S E
or ha way between the mill-wharf and the East point, pass to the East of
tlewhUe spar buoy, which is in 12i feet, and run through the entrance,
IssinK tb/wharf at about one-third of the distance between the points. Do
C round up to the eastward, as a shoal makes out almost parallel with
r, point It may be here noticed that these buoys were made and placed
bv the Puget Mill Company, for the benefit of vessels trading to the port.

1 '

IjL.

I ■i ; t | i M " I *^-^^J4>J^ JtWpy *CC*K=''<'

\' %>PS■m-i^ • f ^ -"" "^'

POSSESSION SOUND.

265

ostablinlinient

. 47'' 3', long.

Inlot lien bo-
E. J 8., distant
E. for 4 miles,
ho houses and
1 peninsula on
a nnrrow nock
I, and is called
nal changes its
rith an average
, and runs for

h others about
e 25 foet high,
rock just awash
fathoms water,
lile S.E. of the
eathor Bluff, is
int is the usual

ferenco, as it is
f quarter by the
t in these waters

set to the eastern
ig round the low
6„.,.iniU, plainly
d when within a
nile, in about 10
iing between the
\ the white one is
jen them in xuid-
tide. After pass-
stant. Steer S.E.
iSB to the East of
igh the entrance,
en the points. Do
lOst parallel with
made and placed
ing to the port.

If the wind bo ahead whilo boating up. It will bo impossible for ft large
vessel to got in, as the channel iu hall a mile long, and wut over IdO yards
wide at the narrowest part. An(h<jr off tho buoysv, and drop in with tho
early flood, or warp in with tho last of the v*bb. On tho shoal forming tho
western sido of tho passage 10 feet nm be fonni until up with tho whito
spar buoy.

At about ;J milos from flood's Head, on tho wostorn side of the canal, is
Suquaminh Ilnrbour. A Inrgo sand-bank occupies its centre, and e.xto\ids a
mile in length N.N.W., by hnlf a mile in width. Tho approach h to tho
shoal, wliich is in part bare, aro Jotoctod in thick weather by tho lead, tho
soundings decreasing regularly from 20 fathoms. Keep, liowover, close
under tho northern shore, which runs 2 milos W.S.W. from tho low point
called Termination Point.

At 11 milos from Ilood's Head tho canal curves more to tho southward,
and then to the S.S.W. around Ilnzol Point, on the West side of which a
large arm of the canal makes North for 10 milos, bifurcating near its heud.
On its western side the eastern spurs of tho Olympus range roach its waters,
and form tho western shore-line of tho canal to tho great bend. Tho sharp
peak named Mount Constance attains an elevation of 7,777 feet.

At 2 milos South of Ilazel Point, and on tho eastern side of the canal, is
a fine harbour, formerly called Ilahainish Harbour, but tho name has been
changed by settlers, who have lately built a small saw-mill thorn. It is
formed by Scabock Island on the West, and is about a mile long by half a
mile wido, with good bottom in from 10 to 15 fathoms.

POSSESSION SOUND may bo considered as the southern entrance to the
channel, separating Whidbey Island from, tho main land. Its eastern shore
is compact, forming a deep bay, into which tho Sinahomis River falls.
Seven mil within the entrance from the South is a high round island.
It was obse* ved by Vancouver that tho tido or current constantly set out-
wards hero.

At 2 miles N.W. from this round island is roint Alan, tho South extremity
of Caamano Island, which lies between Whidbey Island and tho main. Point
Alan is the end of a high, narrow strip of land, which separates Port Susan
on tho East from Port Gardner on tho West of Caamano Island. Port Susan
extends about 1 1 miles north-westward, and is terminated by a line of kelp
fronting a tract of swampy land, through which p, rivulet extends which
forms the island to the West. Tho land farther back is more elevated, and
covered with a growth of timber similar to that in other parts. It was in the
upper part of this inlet that Vancouver's ship, the Chatham, ran aground, but
was soon got off.

Eastward of Alan Point, on the main land, is a small bay, before which
Vancouver anchored. There were two excellent streams flowing into it, but

3Ma^SaAtaaEfe:>gg3«8P^»safe-.a;^CTa3t 3 ..; a aw .- .:i U ':E^^ - .-- -•j>-*'af^ftra<i^~.-

JUAN DE FUCA STllAIT.

^^^ " , 1 ^Uh the sea. that it became necessary to pro-

they were so nearly ou a level with the sea t ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^.^^^

cure the water at '^\'''\Z CoJ^ZlrtlZiJto where the fresh
latter was easily effected, ^^'"^^ ^^'''^^^\,,, took some fish with tl.e
^ater fell ^vom the elevated land. They

seine. „, Vice-Admiral Sir Alan

Port earner (» named ''J J-^a* of Po.-- S™"^' '"

0„aae.)i» *o „..tem "^ °« *f J^ll. This shore ,a, found hy

we.«m shore being omed lyj^^b^ I*n ^^.^__^^^ ^^ ^j,^„^

TrXC''prrrera:r:« .as .hns .. aho. K...W.
„un.e. the di««tion. of about W. and N.B.

p„... .*i.t>'=--^r"°^r::r.^n:rn;sto: .or.o ^a-

„.diou= aadex»l..ntharhon, w* *^^^^^^ ^^. ^^^ (^„,,i„,

thorns, good holding sround. 1""=™ j ,„^ ,h« eaatem

^theTTnitedStat^-Suvv^) » »»^- '«„^-„^ J.„,.,,h„W

,„„„ed «ao«y '*- -;;;^'';- ^ , ,^„^„, ,,„„ ,„„a. direction

The main channel to the N JS. leads to a ^^^ ^^ ^^__^,^ ^^

which ate some rocky .dots and '«k». '»° y. ,„ ,k,„, 3 leagues.

the western shore, forming a -"-^^IChut gradually decre^e. .0 4

TH, depth in it. -"-X^^'lUtsand-hank continuing with great
fathoms in advancng northward, « ^^„ ^^, ^^^^^ jj

r.g»larity, males tt about half a mdewid ^ „, .,,, ^i. aud

:er:^::l -;r«ol:I.Tana a ..ry irregular and disagreeable

"'*''■ ,„„d of the South entrance point of Possession

I„ the bay i"' '^ J^tJ 1 , ^re U a shoal lying a little distance

Sound, that .s, of Wtadboy "" ' 3 isdisco^rable by thosouud-

fcom the shore; it show, "'''[^'^'l^^^l,^,^,^ and cannot he considered

iugs gradually decreasmg t^ .0 A •"« ^ ,^^

„. uy material .mped.ment.o the n„,g ^^^^^^^^^ _^__^

,nin,BEY ISLAND '-'f^f' *;° , te^evcral open plains, .hich

cirnVr:^^;:-'"----^- '''-^""^"■'"

o, i-gnlar ^^^^^^^^^ ,.„,,on beror. described.

Admiralty ^'^'■^^;^^' „„,„„,. i„ an irregular N.W. direc-

Xhe West coast ofWhidbeyl,. ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ „f

DECEPTION PASSAGE— ROSAEIO STRAIT.

267

e necessary to pro-

the brook, which

to whore the fresh

jome fish with tlio

3-Admiral Sir Alan
assession Sound, its
shore was found by
y friendly. At about
i far about N.N.W-

and is a very com-
8 from 10 to 20 fa-
t. 48" 14' (according
;ue from the eastern
it ofthe harbour Van-
re several sepulchres,

hose general direction
allow flat of sand, on
within half a mile of
,le for about 3 leagues,
■adually decreases to 4
continuing with great
j° 24', where it ceases
lence of the rocks and
gular and disagreeable

nee point of Possession
1 lying a little distance
scoverable by the sound-
nd cannot be considered
bay.

it and cultivation. The
reral open plains, which
s about 33 miles in length

before described,
t an ivregular N.W. direc-
point of the entrance of
e sandy cliff, having ono

of the verdant lawns on either side of it. According to the survey by
the United States' Exploring i^xpedition, it is in lat. '48'' 12' 30" N., long.
122° 45' W.

" Passing at the distance of about a mile from this point, we very sud-
denly came on a small space of 10 fathoms water, but immediately again
increased our depth to 20 and 30 fathoms. After advancing a few miles
along the eastern shore of the gulf, we found no effect from either the ebb or
flood tide."

Smith, Blunt, or Bonilla Island, lies 6| miles N.W. of Partridge Point, and 5
from the nearest land. It is low and sandy, forming at its W. end a low cliff,
above which some dwarf trees are produced, fjome rocks lie on its western
side, nearly three-quarters of a mile of its shores, and its eastern part is
formed by a very narrcw low spit of land, over which the tide nearly flowa.
From this the i-emarkably lofty and snowy peak of Mount Baker bears N.
63° E., and that of Mount Rainier S. 27° E. Two other very lofty round
snowy mountains are also seen to tho southward of these. They appear to
be covered with perpetual snow, as low down as they can be seen, and seem
as if they rise from an extensive plain of low country.

Tho Zighthouse on its western summit, showing a revolving light every half
minute, is alluded to hereafter.

Deception Passage, which runs into Port Gardner, to the North of Whid-
bey Island, is a very narrow and intricate channel, which, for a considerable
distance, is not 40 yards in width, and abounds with rocks above and
beneath the surface of tho water. These impediments, in addition to the
great rapidity and irregularity of the tide, render the passage navigable
only for boats or steam-vessels of small burderi, and well acquainted.

To the northward of this the Strait of Juan de Fuca is limited by a col-
lection of islands which separates it from that explored by Vancouver, and
named by him the Gulf of Georgia. The North side of Deception Passage
has proved to be in reality an island by the United States' Exploring Expe-
dition, and named Fidalgo Island, separated from the main land on the Eunt
by a tract of low land, intersected by a narrow stream. The country
here assumes a very differnnt aspect from that seen to the southward.
The shores are here cor- posed ri steep rugged rocks, whose surface va-
ries exceedingly as to height, and exhibits little more than the barren rock,
which in some places prcducos some herbage of a dull colour, with some few
dwarf trees.

Sosario Strait forms the connection between the Strait of De Fuca and
the Gulf of Georgia, running northward between Fidalgo Island and that
next westward, named Lop'.-, Mend. It will be described more particularly
hereafter. Off the S.E. point of Lopej: Island, which is the entrance of this

268 JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT,

strait, and which is low and rocky, there is a very dangerous sunken rook
visible only at low tide; and 2i miles to the northward . a very unsafe
cluster of smaU rocks, some constantly and others visible only near 1 w
later. The strait varies from 5 to 3 miles in width On its easte^^^^^^^^^^
that is, against Fidalgo Island, are Alan and Burrows^ » Mmds, off the South
end of which are some detached rocks.

Cypress Island lies in front of the opening, some 7 miles within it. It is
4 mifes in length, and on its woetem side is Stra.lerr, Bay, bo nr.med by
Vancouver from the great quantity of very excellent strawberries found there
when Mr. Broughton first visited it.

This bay is situated on the West side of the island, which, producing an
abundance of upright cypress, obtained the name of CyP^ess Is and The
bay is of small extent, and not very deep. When at anchor in 6 fathoms,
fine sandy bottom, its South point bears S.E. i S., a small islet forming
nearly the North point of the bay, round which is a clear good passage
West; and the bottom of the bay East, at the distance of about three-quarters
of a mile. This situation, though very commodious in respect to the shore,
is greatly exposed to the winds and sea in a S.S.E. direction. In fair weather
wood and water may be easily procured.

Rock Islet is a small round islet covered with trees, lying nearly 2 cables
northward of the North end of Cypress Island. There is a passage of 9
fathoms between it and Cypress Island. Cypress Reef, lying W. i S. from
Eock Islet, is a da.igerom rocky patch with kelp growing about it, covering at
half flood.

Sinclair Island, thickly wooded, and comparatively low, lies to the north-
eastward of Cypress Island, with a deep passage, of nearly a mile in breadth
between them, leading to Bellingham Channel. An extensive and dangerous
shoal, the Panama Reef, extends nearly half a mile in a W.N.W. direction off
its N.W. extreme, some parts of it uncovering at half-tide ; a large boulder
stands on the inner part of the reef.

Guemes Island lies to the eastward of Cypress Island and North of Fidalgo
Island, and to the eastward of these the main land forms Padilla Bay.

Bellingham Bay is separated from Padilla Bay to the South by a long,
narrow peninsula, of whi^h WilUam Point is the West extreme. There are
a number of channels loading into it through the cluster of i«l;f« before
alluded to ; and the bay itself extends about 12 miles North and South. I
everywhere affords good and secure anchorage. Opposite to its North point
of entrance the shores are high and rocky, with some detached rocks lymg off
it Here is a brook of most excellent water. To the North and South of
these rocky cliffs the shores are less elevated, especially to the northward,
where some beautiful verdant lawns are seen. The land generally is incon-

»-iM»» t 1..I _IM.^U. I III ) »i " ■»<••,■•"!< ..iJW^W

i sunken rock
a very unsafe
only near low
i eastern side,
I, oif the South

rithin it. It Is

so nr.med by

•ies found there

, producing an
is Island. The
r in 16 fathoms,
,11 islet forming
,r good passage
it three-quarters
)ct to the shore,
In fair weather

nearly 2 cables
s a passage of 9
gW. i S. from
)ut it, covering at

lies to the north-
a mile in breadth
ve and dangerous
f^.W. direction off
; a large boulder

North of Fidalgo
?adilla Bay.

South by a long,
^reme. Tliere are
■ of islands before
rth and South. It
) to its North point
ihed rocks lying off
orth and South of
to the northward,
generally is incon-

LUMMI ISLAND, ETC.

269

Tenient for communicating with, on account of a shallow flat of sand or mud
which extends a considerable distance off the land.

In the Spanish survey this bay appears in two portions, the northernmost
being named Gaston Lay. This part is separated from the gulf by a long,
narrow peninsula, terminating in I'oint Francis ; an inlet lying in the middle
of the bay is called Puerto del Socorro, and the southern part of the bay is
called Padilla Bay, an appellation confined in the recent charts to that still
farther South. Coal, or rather lignite, has been found and worked in the
sandstone beds in Bellingham Bay.

Lummi Island, off the N.W. point of Bellingham Bay, is 8 milos long,
and very narrow. On its south-western side it is high and precipitous, a
remarkable double mountain rising about 1,400 feet abruptly from the sea.
There are no dangers off its western side.

Whitehorn Point is a remarkable bold bluff, about 150 feet high, its face
showing as a steep white A&y cliff. It is the southern point of Birch Bay,
and is 9 miles N-W. of the North point of Lummi Island, and N.E. by N.
distant 10 miles from the entrance of the Strait of Georgia, between East
Point and Patos Island.

Birch Bay is between Whitehorn Point and South Bluff; the latter,
which is a moderately high rounding point, forms tho North entrance point
of the bay. Some large boulder stones stand a short distance off it, and
should not be rounded at a less distance than half a mile. The bay runs in
a N.E. direction for more than 2 miles.

The holding ground is good, and with S.E. gales it affords excellent
shelter. A good berth is with Whitehorn Point bearing South, distant a
mile, in 4 fathoms.

Semiahmoo or Boundary Bay is an extensive sheet of water between the
promontory of Eoberts Point on the West, and South Bluff on the East,
which bear West by South and East by North of each other, and are distant
8 miles. Tho bay extends in a northerly direction for nearly 7 milos, and is
only separated from the South bank of Phraser Eiver by a low delta 3 miles
acro' iiiorsected by streams and swamps. All its upper part is shallow,
ij .a •if )& jii. for 3 miles at low water.

'/esrteis eiiould never stand so far to the northward as to bring the white
bluff of -obo'ts Point to bear to the southward of S.W. by W., which line
of boariii} leads more than half a mile outside the shoal edge of tho bank ;
the generil depth of water outside this line is from 7 to 15 fathoms good
holding ground.

Tbo boundary between the Washington Territory and British Columbia is
m^rked on the shore, and also along the parallel of 49° by iron beacons or
pilkrs set up by Capt. Eichards, in July, 1861.

> ■* ^ » WV^ii>w

2^^j JUAN 1)E KUCA STRAIT.

of -u miles N by E. of South Bluff, is formed by a

and received the name of Semiahmoo city. ^^^

Chapter.

brmed by a
rmination of
•, and a few
n it in 1858,

narrow, and
cing boats or

I in the next

( ^71 )

CHAPTER VI.

VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.

pRion to 1789 the outer coast of this island was supposed to be that
of the American continent, but in that year its insular character was es-
tablished.

The first intimation in Europe of the existence of the channel which sepa-
rates Vancouver Island from the continent was in the observations prefixed
by Captain Meares to the Narrative of his Voyages. In the chart accompa-
nying that work there is a sketch of the track of the American sloop Wash-
ington, in the autumn of 1789, which is that through the inland navigation
presently described. The name of the commander is not given ; but it was
naturally supposed that Captain Ghray, of the Columbia, previously mentioned,
was the person. In the angry discussion which ensued between Meares and
Dixon relative to the remarks of the former, it is stated that Mr. Kendrick
was the commander of the Washington, who perhaps took it after it had been
quitted by Gray. Therefore Kendrick,* iu the sloop Washington, must be
taken as the person who really made known the real character of the terri-
tory in question, after the formerly discredited voyage of its discoverer, De
Fuca, in 1592.

Vancouver reached the coast in March, 1792, and after navigating through
the strait to the eastward, he applied the names Quadra and Vancouver
Island to it ; the first name in compliment to the Spanish commandant at
Nootka Sound, from whom he received much politeness during the negocia-
tions relative to the restoration of the tract of country claimed by Great
Britain, as mentioned hereafter. Lately, however, the first name has been
dropped, and that of the surveyor only retained for it, which is certainly

* Kondrick never returned to Europe. Ho was killed in 1793, in Karakakoou Bay,
by a bull accidentally fired from a firitish voatol while saluting bim.

nil

YANCOUVEB ISLAND, ETC.
pliable, a. the Spaai,!. governor took no part in if g»p.pWcal ad-

T— in *e ean-e .a., un.nan.a .^^.^ a.ing 3,

i^r/^rr:ca:Krtp,oni.s.w.eiae,.

refreshn.ents, &c.. by the vessels in the Northracfic.

W.e. howeve. the ^^^ ^^^^^X^:^^:^^^^
Territories from Great Bntam, and t^'ethnvmR settle

r:aS*r:ro„'::ir;i:r.er^:-^^

°" TlTntish crown granted the dominion of Vancouver Island *« the Hud

"we wl!d," itt. it. -i-. *-. '» "^^ H»d»n.. Ba, Company, at the
yearly rent of seven shillings.

Tn the course of time several difficulties and questions arose between he

Tse. In 's^'he „p.e. pnce of country land was fi.ed at 4., 2d. per a.,e,

'z;:;";:rrd''Sn:irr^^^^
jritLtiL er -.«--"■' Tcr:s ::rd

+n nfld to the depression telt, especvauy in lou

: Tm... u. — t.;r rrr ni:w:rni:;d"'t

iTir^l'i"^ -«-»''" «ia «, .. o, Pa._.
r 1. TsM ameaeuro prodaimed in Victoria, it, capital, on No.. 19th
ZTZT' Tir<lu».ion of tUe future capital of the united colome, wa.
ITZZ. andth. decision w«. arrived at that New Westnuneter, pro-
,h,n -r^" .^^ Columbia February 14, 1850, mu»l give way

: r utrr^^ces and general connnereia, iute«. wHcU be^nged to
T^ L. Thi. town wa. prodaimed as the capital on May 25, 1868.

n, su^Itrnt description we commence with the Haro Archipelago,

, b Wo UrS E of vLouver Island, between it and the Washington

tr^JromeXJt^ed States. Thi. eengeries of islands and channels, »

ultawn and so little valued at the time, has been the subject of very

aphical ad-

iuring many
It vfBS only
officers and
[ other com-
.W. side, for

Washington
8 established
by a foreign
ice to English

id totheHud-
id dated Jan.
torship of the
mpany, at the

e between the
I chiefly to the

advisable that
jserving to the
previous rights,

February 3rd,
Is. 2d. per acre,

Ipated, and the
10 doubt tended
anomaly existed
ig colonies, and,
were united, or
, by Act of Par-
il, on Nov. 19th
ted colonies was
''estmiuster, pro-
), must givo way
[lich belonged to
25, 1868.
ai'o Archipelago,
I the Washington
and channels, so
le subject of very

THE HARO ARCHirELA(i(r

273

serious controversy and complication between the two nations, the United
States and Groat Britain, threatening at one time to involve them in a war.
At the time of the treaty which separated Oregon from Groat Britain, the
charts showed only two channels, the eastern one, that of Rosario, being
the only one used, and the other marked on the old Spanish maps as the
Canal de Haro, but almost unknown and quite unused.

The vague wording of the treaty of 1844 said that " the channel" should
be the separation between the two territories, meaning, as is maintained,
the Canal de Rosario. But the United States Government, as soon as tho
country became valuable, insisted that the Haro Channel was "the Chan-
nel," and thus claiming the Island of San Juan as included in thoir terri-
tory. This island is the only one worth having for colonization, as it
commands all the channels leading to tho country of British Columbia, as
well as the harbour of Victoria, from which it is distant only 5 or 6 miles.
In order to adjust these rival claims, Capt. G. H. Richards, R.N., tho pre-
sent I ief hydrographer, arrived here in Nov., 1859, in H.M.8. Plumper, for
tho purpose of making a detailed survey, and fixing the boundary on the
parallel of 49° N. The results of this exhaustive examination showed that,
instead of one or two channels, there are throe principal passages through
the archipelago, and with vciy numerous ramifications from each. As tlie
matters stand, the western channel is claimed by tho United States, tho
eastern channel by Great Britain, and, as a compromise, the middle channel
has been proposed as a boundary. In the mean time the Island of San
Juan has been occupied by two small bodies of troops, 100 of each nation, till
the matter is finally adjusted. It would be out of place here to pursue the
political question. This is very ably handled by Lord Milton, in his work,*
which will give a full insight into the whole subject, elucidated as it is by
the noble author's intimate personal acquaintance with tho region and the
topics relating to it.

THE HARO ARCHIFELAOO.
The HABO ARCHIPELAGO lies in the space separating Vancouver Island
from the continent, the distance between them being about 20 miles, and
the islands covering a space of about 400 square miles in area. There are
♦hree more important islands, San Juan, the westernmost and best, Orcas,
the northernmost and largest, and Lopez the easternmost. There aro about
thirty minor islands and innumerable rocks, mere masses of trap rock covered

with pines.

The subsequent description taken, with some abridgements, from the Van-
couver Island Pilot, drawn up by Captain G. H. Richards in 1864, commences
with the south-easternmost portion, as following in geographical order tho
previous descriptions. ^

• History of the San Juan Water Boundary Quebtion, by Viscount Milton, M.l'., London,
January, 1870.

North Pacific. "^

C 274 )

ROSARIO STRAIT.

«n«APTn STRAIT is the oastornmost and ono of tho principal channels

ROSARIO STRAIT is tno oaai Oeoriria. Its southern entrance

leading from tho strait of Fuca mto ''';' l[^^'^^^^^^ ,,a from thonco

Ues between Lopez and FidalgoMandsbe^^^^^ ^^^^ .^ ^^^^^

its general direction is from N.N.W. to N. W . tor

the latter strait. ^Tinnnels which l)ranch

Like Haro Sl^ait, the Bo.arie ha. ««ral '^'^^vTt^TuZ «:<a«a.mt'
„ff to. he eastward, and lead between, tod. to the Dmtod State

i„ Bemngha. Ba„ o, ^^ -';— ',r .tu* the nanowc A
rLn;rZ.rtlt;r™He.<^ «a « « ^atho™. oeo..

Bionally deeper. ^^^^^ t,. The prin-

The tides are Btro-g, fi:om » *« ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^,,, i„tho centre of

cipal dangers are tho Bxrd and BeLe K««^^' J^^^^ ^^^ ,,^,,^1 anchor-

Channel .henld de en "»!^' N^^f-V^p ,. ^ .tearing N. by E.,
.id,. When Dungenees bght »•="» ^.^J /„ ,,^„i,e Hp patch

:''*;l8lXlr;r-h!:!rl least water ,et feund ia 3*
;:hLT;*renrtt'ne..h;a.de.thepa.h a..«^..^^^^^^^^

the entrance of the .trait, which however, •!'»»« -'^ TJ^^,>^^ If 6

of co«r«.pas» northward ef Smith Mand. .^ ^^^

CAPE eOlVlLW the »n*..^tern e.^^ of ^P ^^^^_ ^

• tidson Eock, .ith.feetonit "t low watered «ca«o.aU^n^^^^^^^
i„g at low spring-, lie> Ea^' « >'* ""^ """' ' "'''"'

pal channels

tiom ontranco

from thonco

hen it enters

which branch
;e8 settlements
lit of Georgia
narrowest to
fathoms, occa-

ts. The prin-
in the centre of
several anchor -
The ebb tide
p low water.
I West end, is a
, an elevation of
■ minute, and is

sea up Eosario
passed on either
3ering N. by E.,
isive kelp patch
yet found is ^
lay be steered for
intered at aight.
:elp patches of 5
ad 4 miles W. by
the main. Vessels
orio Strait, should

ez Island, is the
, flat-topped, and
Lsland, small, and
I cape, distant half
I given a berth of

casionally uncover-
om the East end of

niRD ROCK— TUE TEAl'dDS.

2lf>

Colvillo Island, and South noarly a milo from tlio capo itsolf. Kelp grows
about the rock, but the patch is so small tliat it is dilliLult to luako out.

jLclkU Inland is a small flat-toppod islot, covered witli grass, and lying im-
mediately northward, and close off the low extroiiio of Capo Colvillo. Cape
St. Mary, the next point northward of Capo Colvillo, and a littlo more than
a mile from it, forms tho southern point of Davis Bay. Ifulah Rods, or lui-
ktt Ledge, with one fathom water on them, nnd marked by ki>lp, lio 3 (iablos
N.E. by N. of Capo St. Mary. Thoro is a deep passage bofwoou tliom and
tho capo. Vessels passing outside them should givo tho capo a berth of a
long half mile.

Davis l?ay afTords good and convenient anchorage in a moderate depth of
water. After rouni'ir^: tho Ilulah Eocks, a vessel may stand to tho west-
ward into tho bay, and auchor in fi fathoms mud, little more than half a milo
from the shore. A kelp patch, on which there is shoal water, lies N. by W.
a milo from tho capo. There is anchorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms anywhere
within a milo of the East shore of Lopez and Decatur Islands.

Bird Hock, lying almost in the centre of Hosario Strait, is composed of
three detached rocks close together, the southernmost being tho largest, and
20 feet above high water. From Cape Colville it bears N. i E. noarly 4
miles, and from the South end of James Island, S.E. by S. 1 .J mile. Thoro
is deep water close to it, but on account of tho strength of tho tides, sailing
vessels working up or down, particularly during light winds, are recom-
mended to givo it a berth of half a mile.

Belle Rock is the most serious danger in the Eosario Strait, because it
only uncovers near low water, and tho tides run over it from 2 to 5 knots.
It lies N. by E. ^ E. distant 6 cables from the Bird Eock, and tho passage
between the two rocks carries from 8 to 20 fathoms, but vessels are recom-
mended not to take it except in cases of necessity, on account of the tides.
The Belle Eock is easily avoided by day. The great danger of tho Bello
Eock to a sailing vessel is being left with a light wind in the centre of tho
strait, as tho water is too deep with much prospect of an anchor holding in
so strong a tideway.

James Island, almost divided in the centre, is a remarkable saddle island,
with two summits, lying close off the East side of Decatur Island. There are
no dangers on its off or eastern side.

White and lilaclc Rocks are three-quarters of a mile apart, and lie off the
S.E. shore of Blakely Island. White Eock, the southernmost, is 6 or 8 feet
above high water, and a little more than a quarter of a mile from tho shore
at the eastern entrance of Thatcher Passage (page 283). Black 1 ock, just
awash at high springs, lies N.E. by N. from White Eock, and half a mile
from Blakely Island. There is a deep channel between these rocks, as also
between them and Blakely Island.

The Peapods are two small rocky islets, bare of trees, lying half a mile

T 2

N ' J iW tt^A Bg ■ W. '^

R09ARI0 STRAIT.
^"^^ « • a»«u and 11 milo southward of Law-

from the wostom shoro of R««7 f;;"^*;!^";^ ^Uoy are three-quarters of
,ence Point, the Ea«t^extre.o of 0^^^^^^^^^ the Lrthern.ost being the

a milo apart in a N-N.E. and «.o .^^ ^^^^^ |,etween thorn

largest and highest. A UtUe to the westward o ^^^ ^^ ,^„g,,, ,bout

iB a third rock which just covors at bgh watoi.

them which are not visible. ^^^^

0BCA8 ISLAND is the -t ex.n^ve^^^^^^^^^ ^^^V ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^

Archipelago, and contains t^; /"««* '^^^^^^^^^ there is a considerable

.oat parts thickly woo eaau^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^,^,,^ , ,

portion of land available for agricu v^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^

Lbor. Its southern side is ^^f ^^^.^^^^^^^^^^ the case in the

some places almost divide the island^ ^^^'l,\, g^rait of Georgia by a
East Sound, separated only from ho ^^^'^^^^^^^^^ ^.,^ ,, ^his sound,

low neck of land a mile ^''^J . J° , 3 ^oO feet, wooded to its

Mount Comtitution rises to an elevation of nearly

,i.W„ halt a «a« ot .b. ahor, ,n «^>";'' '»*7;, ^,„,, .,„

W.« i-.".'. *» "'"r'Tc^U^r ImmeLeV on '« North

-•err.::: rrr. - r —^wtr

chaanal bei.g along to ..ate™ ^-'J^;'^ J .,, .bo,o in 15 f.*on..,

r:x::^- -=--"•■-"* - -- "•"^- ^''"

,„.i.l.ndha.b«.Wo,ode.a-ibad. ^^^ ^,, ,^ ,„

tia..,-Aft..P-»8;'«^;-';^l'';:™^^^^ .,; ™an Llanda ,» th.
found to .at to tho oaa ward batw,«n ^_^^^_^^^ ^^ ,^^

„„rth«.d of it, «. -el. a, to th. S* «"^ , ^,^, „t„„ i.^„„

.t«it. ^kon aatagh « AM«n Bank _^__^ ^^.^^ ^ ^^__^,

Point, the Btrength of '^^ ^'^1^ ^J-g^^,^ p„i„t, .h. mil be entirely

-rftoto: trr.hr;X":t"a - B«it „. oeo.^a. x. .

cut of tho .trong ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ,^„„

„omn.end«l "* *-^ ,^^^ .„^, „^,., ^and., 2 „11.. N W.

ot Lnwrouco Pomt^ Iwo ^,,,„„j. There i« a passage U mile

s::":::;::" - — ^^^ o,., * » do,th of « .tho^.

■d of Law-
quartorB of
t being tlio
tween thorn
ngers about

18 the Haro
Qoud and in
considerable
vUy clear of
is, which in

case in the
loorgia by a

this sound,
roodod to its

and Obstruc-
9 tide than in
)p her anchor

ing point, the

yr on its North

trends to tho

vhich is rocky,

ndB, the direct
^"W. direction.
3 in 15 fathoms,
i Island. This

ibb tide will bo
. islands to the
entrance of the
above Lawrence
rhile a vessel is
i will be entirely
' Georgia. It is

3, 2 miles N.W.

of trees, and a

i passage IJ mile

[i of 45 fathoms.

THE MIDDLE CHANNEL. -'""

The tides sot strong about tho Histors, and tho host and most direct channel
is botwoeu Clark and Lummi Island.

Matia Island. 3 miles W.N.W. from Clark Island, and a mile onstward
of Sucia Island (which is 2 milos otT tho North side of Orrus Island), i« a
mile in length. East and West, moderately high and wooded. Close off .tn
East point is /».#>» Met, and extending a short dlHtance eastward of th(.
islet is a flat covering rook. Vessels bound through Rosario Strait are re-
commended to pass eastward of Matia.

ALDEN BANK, 2 miles in extent North and South, and .mo mile fe^ant
and West, lies in tho centre of tho northern ontranco of Rosario Strait. Its
southern limit is 2 milos North of Matia Island, and there is a channel .$
miles in breadth between it and tho oastorn shore.

The depth of water on this bank varies from 3 to 7 fatlioms, and in on«
H,)ot so litUe as 14 feet is found ; tho bottom is in somo parts rocky, with
patches of kelp growing on it ; in other parts it is sandy, and oilers a con-
venient anchorage for vessels bocalmod or waiting for tide.

Vessels passing tip or down are rocommeudod to puss on tho oastorn side
of the bank.

THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.

The MIDDLE CHANNEL is the centre of tho three passages leading from
tho Strait of Juan do Fuca into that of Georgia, and is bounded by San
Juan Island on tho West, and the islands of Lopez, Shaw, and Orcas on tho
East. Although a deep navigable ship channel, and eligible for steamof s of
the largest size, the southern entrance is somewhat confined, and subject to
strong tides, with a general absence of steady winds; tho wide straits of
Rosario and Haro, on either side of it, are therefore far to be preferred for
sailintr vessels above the size of coasters.

The general direction of the channel is N.N.W. for 5 miles, when it trendn
to the WNW. for 7 miles to its junction with Douglas Channel. The
southern entrance lies between the S.E. point of San Juan and the S.W.
point of Lopez Island. In entering, the danger to be avoided on the western
side is the Salmon Bank, extending southerly from San Juan ; and on tho
eastern the Whale Rocks, always out of water. The tides in this entrance
run from 3 to 7 knots, with eddies and confused ripplings.

Salmon Bank extends U mile South from Cattlo Point, a bare point about
50 feet high, the sloping termination of Mount Finlayson, and the S.E. ex-
treme of San Juan Island; the least depth of water found on it is 10 feoi,
with rocky patches, marked in summer by kelp.

Whale Eocks, on the eastern side of the ontranco, are two black rocks a
cable's length apart, and 3 or 4 feet above high water. A patch, on which
kelp grows, with one fathom on it, extends 2 cables S.E. of them, otherwis.,

27H

TlIK MIDDLH CHANNEL.

thoy nro Htoopto. hut it is not rotommondod to pass thom nofiror tlmn a
.Miartor of ii milt>, iis tho tides Hot strongly over thom.

Direction».-lu ontorinK Mid.llo Channel from tho westward or southward,
Cftttln Point should bo Rivon a hv. Ii of at least IJ mile. Mount Erie, a ro-
markablo summit on Fidalgo Island, 1,'250 foot hiph, in lino with Jonnis
I'oint N.E. by E. J E., loiids \\ milo South of Salmon Dank in 13 fathoms ;
whon tho ontrunco of tho channel is open, boarinp N.N.W., or whon Oooso
Island, a small isle on the wostorn sido of the entrance, is in one with Turn
Island, and Orcas Nob bearing? N.N.W. J W., a vossol will bo woU to the
eastward of tho bank, and mny stoer in for tho passage. Orcas Nob is a ro-
maikablo conical hill, with a bare ."tony summit, 1,100 feet above the sea,
risintc over tho West side of Orcas Island.

Griffin Bay is an oxtonsivo indentation on tho eastern sido of San Juan,
immedintoly within tho southern entrance of Middle Channel. Although ho
spacious, yet fro.a the great depth of water I here is but a limited portion of
tho bay nmilable for anchorage, and this is in tho southern angle, imme-
diately off tho remarkable prairio land between two forests of pine treoH.
mif.fidn Rod, just awash at high water, lies W. i N., distant IJ milo
from Harbour Itock, and 4 cables' lengths from tho wostorn shoro of tho
bay There is another rock, which only uncovers at or near low water,
lying S.E. .i S. 4 J cables from Half-tide Rock, and N. i W. a third of a milo
from tho pior on tho beach.

Witli all westerly or southerly winds, Griffin Bay affords good shelter
but with those from North or N.E. it is considerably exposed. A stranger
should drop an anchor directly 12 fathoms is struck. North Bai, in tho
N.W. angle of Griffm Bay, immediately under Park H-il, a bare grassy
eminence, about 180 foot high, affords good anchorage i-i 4 to 10 fathoms,
with all winds but those from S.E., to which it is somew.mt exposed.

The greatest rise anu faU at the southern entrance of Middle Chan-
nel, on full and change, is 12 feet; but little stream is felt at tho an-
chorages.

Turn IdardW&r. N.W. by N., nearly 5 miles from the South entrance of
the Middle Channel. Tmn Rock lies nearly a quarter of a mile N.E. of tho
island, and covers at three-qaarters flood. Tho tido runs with great strength
over this rock, and vessels passing up or down the channel are recommended
to give it a good berth.

Friday Harbour is on the North side of the peninsula, immediately oppo-
site to North Bay ; it is rather confined, but offers good anchorage, and is
easily accessible to steamers or small vessels. Brown Island lies in the
entrance, and there is a passage on either side c! it. The piissage in, west-
ward of Brown Island, is the widest and best, being 3 cables across. In
the centre of the entrance there is a rocky patch, with 3.V fathoms at low

-r- :.-r ;7 y*'Wg*" '' J^ ' ^^^^-b^ ^-

DOUOLAR CHANNEL.

270

oror than a

f southward,
it Erie, a ro-
with Jonnis
1 3 fathora8 ;
whon Oooso
10 with Turn
woU to t\w
Nob is a ro-
)0V6 the sea,

jf San Jaan,
Although HO
tod portion of
anglo, immo-
uf pine treoH.
itant IJ mihi
, shore of the
ir low water,
;hird of a mile

good shelter
A stranger
/* Baj, in the
a bare grassy
10 fathoms,
Lposed.

Middle Chan-
)lt at the an-

th entrance of

ile N.E. of the

great strength

i recommended

nediately oppo-
ihorage, and is
md lies in tlie
issage in, wost-
iles across. In
fathoms at low

water. Anchor with tho passage between the island and main open, and tho
West cliffy point of tho former bearing N.H. in !) fathoms.

Beid Rock.— After rounding Turn Island, tho Middlo Channel trends to
the westward, and Roid Rock lies right in tho fairway, thelouHt water on it is
12 ft., and it is surrounded by thick kolp, which, however, is HomotimoH run
imder by the tide. Tho rock bears from the North point of Turn Ishind
W.N.W. 1 1-lUth mile, and from tho N.W. cliff point of IJrown Island
N.N.E. i E. three-quarters of a mile. Thero is a dear deep cliannol on
either side of it. After passing Roid Rock, thoro are no dangors which aro
not visible.

On its eastern side aro tho group known as tlie Jf'asp hlamh, between an'l
among which are several passages loading between bhaw and UrcaH Island) ,
and commimioating with the magnificent harbours and sounds which doepl/
indent the southern coasts of tho latter.

On the western sido of Middlo Channel, 4 miles from Caution Point, '.s
Rocky liivj, with tlie small island of O'Nvid lying in tho centre of it. 'i'ho
bottom is rocky, and as tho bay does not afford much Bholter, vessels are not
recommended to use it unless in case of necessity.

Jones Island lies in the northern entrance of the channel, on the eastern
side, nearly half a milo from Orcas, being separated from the latter island by
Spring rassago. The island is generally wooded, but its wostorn points aro
bare and grassy.

Spring Passage, between Jones Island and tho West sido of Orcas Island,
ia a safo deep water channel, and saves some distance to a steamer passing
up or down Middle Channel, by tho Douglas Channel. Some rocky patfihos
extend a cable off the south-eastern sido of Jones Island ; and a rock \vl\ich
covers at a foot flood lies the same distance North of a small covo on tho N.E.
sido of tho island ; so it is desirable to puss through in mid-channel ; tho
western side of Orcas Island has, however, no dangers off it.
, Flat-top Island is in the northern entrance of Middlo Channel, N.W. by
W. 2 miles from Jones Island ; it is a third of a mile in length, wooded,
and about 100 feet high. Off its western side, distant 2 cables, is a rock
nearly a cable in extent and 15 feet above high water.

DOUGLAS CHANNEL may be said to be the continuation of Middlo
Channel, and leads into Haro Strait, between Orcas and Waldron Islands.
There are other passages leading into the Haro, viz., westward of Flat-top
Island, between it and Spiedon and Suart Islands ; and eastward of Flattop,
between it and Waldron Island. In the former the confused tides and eddies
aro liable to entangle a sailing vessel among Spiedon and the neighbouring
groups of smaU islands and rocks ; in the latter, tho White Rock, with its off-
lying dangers, offers serious impediments to the safe navigation of tho same

class of vessels.
Both shores of tho channel aro free from danger. If necessary, vessels

jij

280

THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.

will find a istoi)ping place in the bay southward of tlie Bill of Orcas in 12
fathoms.

The channel eastward of Flattop Island, between it and White Eock, is
about the same breadth as the one to the West of it, but the Danger Rod;
with 6 feet on it, which lies a quarter of a mile 8.E. by E. from the centre of
White Rock, must bo carefully avoided.

If passing between White Eock and Disney I'oint (the high stratified cliff
of Waldron Island", the laltor should bo kept well aboard if the ebb is run-
ning, or a stranger is liable to bo set on tho rock.

It should be observed that the ebb stream continues to run down through
the whole of tho passages in the Archipelago, for two hours after it is low
water by tho shore, and the water has begun to rise.

Fatos Island, 1 } miles long, lies 2 J miles E.N.E. from the East point of
Saturna, on the South side of the G! ulf of Georgia ; the passage between
them being the widest, and at present most frequented, though not always
the best channel from Haro or Middle Channels into the Strait of Georgia.
Active Cove, at its western end, is formed by a small islet connected at low
water, and affords anchorage for one or two small vessels.

The passage into the Strait of Georgia between Patos and Sucia Islands,
although considerably narrower than the one just mentioned, is for several
reasons at times to be preferred, especially for vessels passing through Mid-
dle Channel, or for sailing vessels with a N.W. wind.

If intending to take the passage between Patos and Sucia, either up or
down, an excellent mark for clearing the Plumper and Clements Reefs, which
are dangerous patches lying southward and northward of Sucia, is to keep
the remarkable round summit of Stuart Island, 650 feet high, just open
westward of Skipjack Island, the westernmost wooded island North of Wal-
dron ; this leads well clear of both the reefs, and the same course, N.E. | N.,
continued, would cross Alden Bank in 5 fathoms.

If taking the passage from the Middle or Douglas Channels, keep the
white faced cliffs of Eoberts Point well open westward of Patos Island, or
keep the West end of Patos Island on the starboard bow until the marks
before described are on, when steer through the passage. If the ebb stream
is running, it is better to keep the Fatos Itslaud shore aboard; 16 fathoms
wiU be found on the Sucia shore, but it is not recommended to anchor unless
positively necessary.

In standing to the north-eastward, when Clark Island is open of tho
East end of Matia, or Puffin Islet, a vessel will be eastward of Clements
Beef.

STTCIA ISLAND is of a horse-shoe shape, remarkably indented on its
eastern side by bays and fissures, running in an East and West direction ;
the largest of these, Sucia Harbour, affords fair anchorage. The island if
from 200 to 300 ft. high, thickly covered with pines, and its western side a

■' - ' , ' ' ' i m ■ !! ." ' i»»T-'\. "i «t vwaa..w;»nM-u.MWiu^ t t -tanviftfr :

^^^^!^K?yiT>• ^uw ^ »a^v ^ & M»^ BWf*»w^')' t'a«Bg^,og«r.'F-g»

LOPEZ ISLAND.

281

[1 of Orcas in 12

[ White Rock, is
the Banger Rod-,
Tom the centre of

igh stratified cliff
if tho ebb is run-

un down through
PS after it is low

the East point of
passage between
iiough not always
Strait of Georgia,
connected at low

,nd Sucia Islands,
led, is for several
sing through Mid-

iicia, either up or
ments Reefs, which
' Sucia, is to keep
3t high, just open
Qd North of Wal-
course, N.E. | N,,

hannels, keep the
if Patos Island, or
w until the marks
If the ebb stream
board; 16 fathoms
,ed to anchor unless

nd is open of tho
stward of Clements

ily indented on its
id West direction ;
ige. The island if
I its western side a

series of steep wooded bluffs. The dangers lying off it are Plumper and
Clements Eeofs ; the former has 10 feet water on it, and lies S.W. by 8. U
mile fromLawson Blufl", the highest N.W. point of tho island; N.N.W. 2 J
miles from the Bill of Orcas, a remarkable bare knob point on the island
of that name; and S. by E. nearly 2 miles from the East point of Patos
Island. There is a deep passage between Plumper Reef and Sucia, but it is
not recommended.

ClemenU Reefh&s 9 feet on it, and lies N.E. J N. U mile from Lawsen
Bluff; N.W. i W. one mile from Ewing Island, the N.E. point of Sucia ;
and E. i N., 2 miles from tho East end of Patos. Some rocky patches
covering at high water, and marked by kelp, lie between Clements Reef and
Ewing Island, and it is not safe to pass between them. There is a deep
channel of more than a mile in breadth between Sucia and Matia, the island

to the eastward of it.

Parker Reef is a considerable patch lying in tho passage between Sucia
and Orcas Islands, and at low water uncovers a quarter of a mile of rock
and sand; its eastern end always shows its rocky summit above water, and
bears from Nob Point or Orcas Bill N.E. i E. 2i miles, and from the East
point of Sucia 8. i E. H mile. Thero is a passage on either side of the
reef; that U) the southward, between it and Orcas, is half a milo wide, but
a stranger is recommended not to use it.

Matda Island, a little more than a milo eastward of Sucia, has been before

alluded to.

LOPEZ ISLAND.— We now return to the islands and passages on tho

eastern side of Middle Channel, Lopez is tho southernmost of tho islands,

and helps to form the western side of Rosario Strait, as its does the eastern

of the Middle Channel. It is long, 9 miles North and South, 3 miles East

and West, and thickly wooded, but dififers from all the other islands of tho

Archipelago in being much lower and almost flat, except at its northern

and southern extremes, where elevations occur of a few hundred foot. Its

southern side is a good deal indented by bays and creeks, which, however,

from their exposed position and rocky nature, cannot be reckoned on as

anchorages. On its western side, in Middle Channel, is a creek terminating

in an extensive lagoon, the former offering groat faciUties for beaching and

repairing ships. On the North shore is Shoal Bay, affording anchorage ;

and on the East is the spacious and excellent sound of Lopez, which has an

entrance from Middle Channel, as well as three distinct passages from

Rosario Strait.

McKaye Harbour is on the South coast of Lopez Island, 2 i lilos eastward
of the entrance to Middle Channel. It is entered between Jennis Point on
the South, and Long and Charles Islands on tho North ; irom the latter it
runs easterly for a milo, and then trends to the southward for a short dis-
tunce, terminating in a low sandy beach. In the entrance there are from 8

!K»SWB!»?f «»>W(P>2 ™^"

282 THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.

to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, but with the prevailing south-westerly winds
the anchorage is a good deal exposed. Coasters or small vessels drawing 1 2
ft. may got shelter in the South bight ; with northerly or easterly winds there
wo\ild be fair anchorage.

Shark Reef, on the western side of Lopez Island, immediately within
Middle Channel, and half a mile northward of Wlxite Cliff, consists of two
rocks generally awash, extending something more than a cable off shore,
and which musf; be avoided by vessels working up the channel. There are
no dangers on tho coast of the island above this reef.

Canrcn Creek, on tho West side of Lopez Island, is 4 miles within the
entrance of Middle Channel. Tho western entrance point is a low sandy
spit, closo round which there are 3 fathoms, and on it a vessel might be
beached and repaired with much facility, and perfectly sheltered ; the creek
tex-minates In a largo salt lagoon.

TJpright Channel, separating Lopez from Shaw Islands, is a deep steep
pasoago loading from tho Middle Channel to the sounds of Orcas and Lopez,
and by several passages into Eosario Strait. The narrowest part of the
entrance is between Flat Point and Canoe Island. Here for a short distance
it is scarcely 2 cables in breadth. A rock lies a cable South of tho South
point of Canoe Island, marked by kelp. The tides are not considerable
in tho channel. At If mile from Flat Point on the South side of the chan-
nel is TJpright Hill, tho steep cliffy North extreme of Lopez Island. It is
covored with timber, and from '200 to 300 feet high.

Shod Bay lies Immediatoly eastward of Upright Hill, and runs in a
S.S.E. direction for a mile to its head, which is separated from Falso Bay in
Lopez Soutid, by a low nock a cable's length across. Although apparently
a, considerable sheet of water, the anchorage for largo vessels is much
limited by a shoal which extends from just within tho point of Upright
Hill towards the eastern point of tho bay, and more tlian halfway across.

LOPEZ SOUND, on the eastern side of the island of that name, runs in
a 8.8.E. direction for 7 J miles,, or nearly the whole length of tho island, its
head reaching within half a mile of tho waters of Fuea Strait. Its eastern
side is formed pax-tly by Lopez and partly bj Decatur and Bkkoly Islands,
lying parallel with it ; and between these islands, as well as northward of
the latter, are passages leading into Rosario Stxait. The average breadth
of tho sound is nearly \h mile, and there is a convenient depth of water for
anchorage in almost every part of it.

Tho sound may be entered from tho westward through Middle and Up-
right Channels, and from the eastward by the Obstruction Passage, or by
Thatcher and Maury Passages.

Until as far South as Frost Island, which is nearly 2 milea within the
entrance of the sound, tho general depth of water is froin 20 to 30 fathoms.
Thatcher Paesago, loading into Rosario Strait, between Blakeiy and Decatur

ssterly winds
8 drawing 1 2
y winds there

lately within
rasists of two
)le off shore,
,. There are

)S within the
) a low sandy
;sel might be
od ; the creek

1 a deep steep
IS and Lopez,
it part of the
ihort distance
of the South
t considerable
» of the chan-
Island. It is

md runs in a
False Bay in
jh apparently
ssels is much
at of Upright
vay across,
lame, runs in
tho island, its
t. Its eastern
iakoly Islands,
1 iiorthward of
erago breadth
h of water for

iddlo and Up-
'ossago, or by

lee within the
to 30 fathoms,
y and Decatur

TnATCnEIl AND OBSTRUCTION PASSAGES.

283

Islands, now opens out, and in proceeding up the sound the depth soon de-
creases to 9 fathoms, varying between that and 5 fathoms for a distance of
2 J miles, or as high as Houston Island. The only impediment between
Frost and Houston Islands is tho Middle Bank, on which, however, there aro
not less than 3 fathoms at low water. It is half a mile in extent North and
South, 2 cables East and "West, and lies almost in the centre of the sound,
its North end bearing S.8.E. a quarter of a mile from tho South end of
Frost Island, and S.W. by W. i W. H mile from the North entrance point
of Tliatchor Passage, or South point of Blakely Island.

Mitrance Shoal, with 2 fathoms on it, and marked by kelp, must bo
avoided by vessels working in. It lies E. by N. i N. li mile from Upright
Point, and half a mile from the shore of Blakely Island; there is deep
water on either side of it.

Fake Bay is on the West side of tho sound, a mile from Shoal Bay, thoir
heads being only separated by a low narrow nock, a cable's length across,
the cliffy extreme oi tlie peninsula being Separation Point. It is unfit for
anchorage, except for small vessels. Half-tide Rock, covering at half-flood,
and not marked by kelp, is in the track of vessels entering. It lies S.E. by
E. i E. three-quarters of a mile from Separation Point, and N.N.W. J W. 4
cables from Arbutus Island. Frost Island lies close off Gravel Spit on the
West side of the sound. It is wooded, and its western side a steep cliff,
between which and the spit end there is a narrow channel of 5 fathoms.

The Black Islets are a ridge of steep rocky islets, lying within and across
tho entrance of Maury Passage. At 2 cables S. by W. from the soutliorn-
most of these islets is a rock which covers at quarter-flood. There is good
anchorage in 5 fathoms in tho bight, westward of Crown Islet.

THATCHER PASSAGE, between Blakely and Decatur Islands, is tho
widest and most convenient passage into Lopez Sound from Rosario Strait.
It is H mile in length, and its narrowest part 4 cables wide, with a general
depth of from 20 to 25 fathoms. Lawson Rock, lying ak >t in the centre of
the eastern entrance, is the only danger, and covers at 2 ii'ot flood. There
is a good passage on either side of tho rock ; that to tho southward is
the best.

MAITBY PASSAGE, between Decatur Island and the N.E. point of
Lopez, is the southernmost entrance to tho sound from Rosario Strait. It is
ocarcely 2 cables wide at the entrance, with a depth of 12 fathoms. Tho
black islets lio across the western entrance, and it is necessary to keep to
the southward, between them and Lopez.

OBSTRUCTION PASSAGES.— Obstruction Island lies in the centre of tho
channel, between the North point of Blakely and tho S.E. point of Orcas
Island, and forms a safe and convenient communication on either side of it,
between tho Middle Channel and Rosario Strait by Upright Channel ; they
likewiao lead from Rosiirij Strait to the sounds of Orcaa and Lopez. The

^.^■W-a1st3.a^3«»'sa5^v.VF»trt:'?ss=li::^'l .Vrf.iif '\'rr'iw--,-»^

THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.
North Obstruction ^^^ '' ^^''^' '^ "^'^^ lZ:Uo Th^ eJern entrance
better channel of the two. ai » audSW. In its nar-

Strait. v„o;^nBBnmfl nmaller islets and rocks,

li, ou tbe oa.ten. «de ot «'" » '^""'"'^^ j, „a,„ remarkable from ite
Wfc., /.« tt. weetemMC^ of ^^^TZ'rlaiBder of the group M.B
*:rZ:lw2 r. ."dTspit e,.ad, for a eaW. leugk,
wooded. From » ™^,„„, bate at low water, and rouud wteh kelp
,.ith a rock on «■»'""""''• 3° . „ , i^rth in p.»ing up or down
grow.-, therefor, *« I?'"'!\7^,S3Ld are njm and R«/ /.«..•
Middle Channel f^^^^'^^^ f„ more than a cable', length,
oflf the West side of the latter a rec Bosario

„.^ P-,. lead, '^''^^^:,^Z^l^' -l^ ««* »"' >""»

r-,rx"-«^-°.--^ - -- ''''^'■■^" """ "

%';]:ra ,e.«l ma, P"- -J- ^ It ^7:^"-

YeUo, Waud. between .t and L w U»;>^» ™ and «fl Wand..

„t Nob Wet, and a, before A'"'"' •^''"'' •" ^„thward of Clilt Idand,

rtre:rrTe:err::nnh:^=.^^- -^ --

..rl!: :::iri:orle.and, iL betwcn Bteep Lolut. the 8.W. pon,t

?ugb thore
fair tides.

breadth 2
pn entrance
orth end of

perhaps the
i a mile in
In its nar-
side of the
• one always
quarter of a

lough consi-
,ny direction,
nel, and be-
1 arc several
into Eosario

Btfl and rocks,
)rcas Islands,
cable from its
I group being
iblo's length,
d which kelp
g up or down
I Reef Islands ;
jable's length,
ind to Bosario
find but little
ght channel is

) southward of

mce northward

Islands.

I of Cliff Island,

of Shaw Island.

nnel for vessels

a good lookout

r Harbour, the
the S.W. point

OKCAS ISLAND.

285

of Orcas, and Reef Island, the northernmost of the Wasp group. It is
nearly a quarter of a mile wide and 20 fathoms deep, and the only danger
to avoid on it is the reef off the West side of the latter island. Door Har-
bour may be entered equally well between Eoef and Brown Islands. A
patch of 2 fathoms lies S.W. by W. nearly a cable from the N.W. point of
the latter.

OBCAS ISLAND, the largest of the archipelago, has been before noticed,
as forming the western side of Eosario Strait. Its most elevated part.
Mount Constitution, is on the eastern side. On the West side is the I'urtle
JJack, along wooded range 1,600 feet, and West of it again, rising imme-
diately over the sea, that singular bare-top cone known as Orcas Nob, a
remarkable object when seen either from the North or South.

The ports of Orcas are Deer Harbour, West and East Sounds ; but on the
western and northern sides of Orcas there is no convenient anchorago. A
vessel might drop an anchor if necessary southward of the Bill of Orcas, a
remarkable projecting bare pulat, with a nob on its extreme.

The North coast is steep and precipitous, except between tlie Sill and
Thompson Point, a distance of 2^ miles. Immediately off this i)art of the
coast is Parker Eoef, described in page 281. From Thompson I'oint, a bare
cliffy point, the coast forms a slight curvo easterly to Lawrence Point, distant
6 miles.

Lawrence Point, the sloping termination of the high range of Mount
Constitution, is the eastern extreme of Orcas Island ; on its northern side it
is a steep and almost perpendicular cliff.

Deer Harbour is the westernmost of the throe ports of Orcas, and, as
liefore observed, is conveniently entered from the Middle Channel by North
Passage between Steep Point of Orcas and Eeof Island, or between the latter
rnd Brown Island of the Wasp group. The harbour is a mile long in a
North and South direction, and about the same breadth at its southern end ;
it narrows, however, rapidly, and terminates in a shoal creek, and fresh
water streams fed from a lake. Fawn Islet lies off the steep cliffy shore of
the West side of the harbour ; below it the depth of water varies from
10 to 15 fathoms, abreast and above it from 5 to 8 fathoms. The bottom
is mud.

West Sound may be entered from Middle Channel, either by tho Wasp or
Upright Passages already described, or from Eosario Strait by either of the
Obstruction passes. Having entered by the Wasp Passage, cleai-ed the
Passage Eock, and being off Broken Point — a remarkable cliffy point — the
extreme of a small peninsula on the North side of Shaw Island, West Sound
will bo open, extending in a N.W. i N. direction for moro than 2 mUes,
with Orcas Nob immediately over the head of it. The breadth of tho sound
is about three-quarters of a mile, and the depth of water from 10 to 10
fathoms, with no hidden dangers.

■ - wm'-»ffl».-j;!i 'A > ' - ' ;4J ' i ' i ! r ' .y:" ' i:t-"~ r /j ' w-.vy5. " -

■ ^.-twv^vw ' j ' yf ■ ;' . r.' ',-tf r " . '-■ rJj ' A . '.' ~- ^ ' j> "'^

THE MIDDLE CHANNEL.

of „Uito .and, Wta., i. °r*""*"„u;i™ ofthe head of the .eund,
B„.en Point. '•"Z'lV^^^J^^^'^" " ^'^ ' ■"''" T t
r rB!::X "^-'- «^^^^^^ atono-thWOeod, Ue. al...o.t
irZtofZ ha„ het^ee. ^. two .^.a^» J»ats. _^_^__^^ ^^^ ^^^
KMney OhMmA between Orcas and Shaw ^^^ ._^ ^,,

andEa.t~und.of Oroa,. ^' "^'^^ H^^^lZu Channel between

eaeteri, di«»,tion for ». f™' "^^ ^ ,tL doP-8 g""^ l"'"*' "'"
F„*>r and Hankm roml., *^ '"T" " l'^„„.tos the two «.und. ;

„.tho» '^'^^"'-'^ylZT^^ot slaw island. NAV. fton,
the latter U the eortem W"f" °~» J than a cable off ehere, and

nankin Point is a rocky patch wMch bo mor ^hward of Foster Point;
coversath^floed. C.^' '■^:;^^^^\'^. ;r^».»..r i..»..

VLT:t:u:zX^^'' -- -"""""■^° •°*-""°"

,„n> Poster Pomt; » » 7»^;',^^^"7g„nth shore, midway between
BUa B.,, on Shaw I'""-^' ^ J j^/,^^, p^ieBy weeded, Ue. in
Broken and Hantan Pomts, A smaU ronn _^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^

the centre of the entrance, -^a^^ '^^^^^^ „„Jce on that side. A
tends from its western P""'. jf °'^*° „/the east«n side of the islet so
:^Ceiorl°:Sereo"llr..whiehsho^kee,thoisland.oso

--;r:ii.r..^.--rrrCi;Sr

Wasp Passages and Hamoy ^na , ^^^^^ g miles,

,Moh 2).a«.o«i PoM the --te- P- ;; ^e ZtrUou Passes, a. soon
its entrance wiU be easily °^-d«;;^^- " ^o whole length of the soimd will
asavesselisatthe^ wes^- -^-^rthle conical hill, over 1,000 feet
be open, l>««"^«^ ^•^- * "i, entrance, which Ues between Diamond and
high, rises on either side of ^^e en^« ' ^^^^^ ,^^ j^ a N.W. by

Stockade Points. From ^e^;-;^- P« ^^^ ^^^^,,, j, three-quarters
W. direction for 6 nules ; ^^'^'^^^ Bay to half a mile, and opens out
of a mile ; it then contracts ^ ^^^J^; J^^ ,^, ^„^d terminates in two
again above to more than a mile, x ^^ ^^^^^

bays, a jutting cUffy point separating the two. g

in the sound is 15 fa*^«°^«- . , ^j t^e sound entrance, nearly a mUo

rpr^»-?'?E:ir:i::s:^rrBr
.arfreir;;x":r-~---«- ^ '»

w mwi i

1 shells, tho
> appimraneo
milcB above
f the Bouiiil,
a luilo above
I, lies almost

ictB the West
id rxins in ^"
nnel between
sen point, tl»o
two sounds ;
N.W. from
offshore, and
Foster Point;
mter Rock lies
north-eastward

idway between
wooded, lies in
high water, ex-
)n that sido. A
3 of tho islet, so
the island close

or through the
right Hill, from
8 North 2 miles,
L Passes, as soon
)f the sound will
,, over 1,000 feet
3en Diamond and
una in a N.W. by

is three-quarters
le, and opens out
terminates in two
ral depth of water

ance, nearly a milo
t of North Obstruc-
from the ahore.
Stockade Bay, is a
there are from 5 to

HARO STRAIT.

287

9 fathoms, with one patch of 4 fathoms. On tho eastern sido of the sound,
2 miles above Stockade Bay, is a small hook facing tho S.E., forming Cas-
cade Bay. A large stream falls by a cascade into tho bay, and it would be
a convenient place to water a ship.

HARO STRAIT.

HARO STRAIT, the westernmost of the three channels leading from the
Strait of Fuca into the Strait of Georgia, is bounded on tho western side by
Vancouver Island, and its off-lying smaller islands and reefs, and on tho
eastern side by the islands of San Juan and Stuart, and runs in a N.W. by
N. direction for 18 miles ; it then turns sharply to the N.E. round Turn
Point of Stuart Island, for a further distance of 12 miles, leaving the
Satuma Island to the westward, and Waldron and Patos Islands to the
eastward, when it enters the Strait of Georgia between Satuma and Patos
Islands. ^

It is for the most part a broad, and for its whole extent a deep navigable
ship channel ; but on account of the reefs which exist in certain parts, the
general absence of steady winds, the scarcity of anchorages, and, above all,
the strength and varying direction of the tides, much care and vigUanoe is
necessary in its navigation, and it is far more adapted to steam than to sail-
ing vessels.

Besides tho main stream of the Haro Strait thus described, there are
several smaller channeifl and passages branching from it by which vessels
may enter the Strait of Georgia ; thus the Swanson Channel leads into tho
strait by the Active Pass (formerly the Plumper Pass, by which name it is
more generally known), and the Trincomalie and Stuart Channels by tho
Portier Pass, or the Dodd Narrows.

These channels may be again entered by smaller ones ; thus Sidney and
Cordova Channels, on the western side of Haro Strait, lead by Moresby tad
Shute Passages into tho Swanson and Stuart Channels, and finally into ild
Strait of Georgia. These channels are essentially adapted to steam naviga-
tion, or to coasting vessels ; they afford smooth water, and many of them
anchorages. They will be described in their proper order.

Middle Bank, lying in the southern entrance of Haro Strait, E. by N. 4
miles from Discovery Island, and almost in mid-channel, is a rocky patch about
2 miles in extent each way, and the least water found on it is 10 fathoms.
In bad weather there are heavy tide ripplings on and in the vicinity of this
bank, which are dangerous to boats or small craft.

Zero Rock. — The principal dangers in the southern part of Haro Strait are
the Zero Rock and the Kelp Reefis ; the former lies on the West side of the
strait, is about half a cable in extent, covers at three-quarters flood, and its
vicinity is marked by kelp. It bears from the East point of Discovery

-' 'Wi i mi') » w i »! ' JJi' i» M''g'ii'. ' ;.> -gi ' a. '

g;,^_g.,- - ,., , .,. t,v. .^ij..i> i -^^y,aPgg' »Jg j. '} > ^5 S^f--

IIABO STRAIT.

*'' ., d from the higb ..bite cliff of Cowitehin Head E.

iBland N.W. 6i mileB, and from tHe mg

by 8. 3i miles. ^f naro Strait, N.N.W. i W.,

Ve Kelp Eeefs lie ^^-^ ^fjj; ^.n^, E. by N. i N. 5 maes from
7i miles from the East pointofDscovery ^j. ^^^^^^ j^j^^d.

Titchin Head, and ^-^ ^ ^f Jj^^^^^^^ by Wp. .hicU extends
They uncover at low spnngs, and aro w ^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^ ^ ^ ^^

- ^«*-^:? C: mil: r Lettpoint of Darey Island, and uncovers
three-quarters of a miie irom

2 feet at low tides. g^^^it to avoid the above dan-

DIUECTI0N8.-VesBels P'^--f J^^^^, distance of a mile, should ste.v

gers, after rounding Discovery Wand^t ^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ,,,,y

N.N.W..or for ^^«"°^^"Vl^,,t^se will clear t^
headland on the eastern "^^'^.^^'^^^J^^a, ^ vessel should tack whoa Low
m working up, -^«\«^f"«j;;^ Sidney Island, which wUl give the
Island is shut in with the ^-E- J«-* «' « .^ ,,, Kelp Reefs, Bare Is and
ZeroR.ckagoodberti.;^butwhe^JJ^^ ^J ^^^^ ^^^^^ ,,,,a them.

r el':- B^Juan B^ore is «teep ^J^^mile to a mile, a N.W. by N.
'when abreast KeUett Bluff ^7 ^^^^J^^'^^ of Stuart Island. There
course wiU pass the same d^t^;/;;^^^.^^ ,,aies and tide rippUngs. caused
are no dangers off th>spomt; ^-'^^ ^ .i^^^els, are generally m.t
hy the meetings of the ^^-^^^.'^^^^^^.^el may reach this point wxth a
J-th, particularly ^^^h f « fl^^t ^variabl/lose it here, until hav.ug

fresh southerly wmd, but wm g j^^^.

opened out the middle channel a^tward ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^.^^^ ^.^^ ,^^,

After rounding Turn Pomt ^JJ' ^ ,^^ East point of Saturna and

the northern entrance of H-« f-*^ J ^ .^ ,^,,,th. but is subject to heavy

Patos Islands. -^^^ P^^^^' Lmmended when possible to pass through
tiderippUngBandedd.es; It «Jom ^^^^.^^ ^^.^^ .^ ^^, th as

the centre of it. The flood from ^e^ ^^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^^ j, t to set a

soon as the passage ^«*^««^^^;;^1,^;1, off which and Tumbo Island here

open, and a vessel finding ^-^^J^^^V^od clear passage of above a m.e
h'etweenitandSucia. ^^^/J;;; ^^ Patos Island shore should be kep
iu breadth; if ^^s passage «tak«i, elements Reefs ; the former

rather aboard, ^-^/^r^*^^, NTbluff of Sucia Island, and has 10 i.
lies 8.W. by 8. li m^le from the N.W ^^^^^ ^^^ ^,^

,.ater on it ; the latter N^^ 4 1^ ^^^^.^ ^^ ^^„,^., , W. by N.^o
Wy:;^-ir:r-ch:nelcours. Ifboundfor^raserR.er.aN.^^

PLUMrER SUUNI).

289

in Iload E.

J.W. i w.,

5 milos from
»arcy WanA.
hich exteuda
5. by N 4 N.
and uncovers

e above dan-
, should Bteor
lo Bteop rocky
eefs by a milu.
ick wlieu Low
L wUl give the
afs, Bare Island
to avoid them.

a N.W. by N.
Island. There
ipplings, caused
e generally mi^t
lis point with a
re, until having

liles will lead to
at of Saturna and
J subject to heavy
e to pass througli
;h is met with as
ten, is apt to set a
imbo Island there
iispomt should be

of Georgia is well
Patos should pass
56 of above a mile
ore should be kept
1 Beefs ; the former
and, and has 10 it.
•om the same bluff,
I from W. by N. to
laser Kiver, a N.W-

by W. course from the centre of the channel botwoon Patos iHland and East
Point will lead to the sand heads, the distance nearly 20 miles. Entering
the strait, and having passed to the northward of Patos Island, if the ebb
is running a yossol is extremely liable, unless with a commanding breeze, to
be set to the eastward and down the Kosario Channel.

The northern shore of Sucia Island should by all moans be avoided. If
Alden Bank can be fetched, it offers a good anchorage while waiting for a tide.
Cormorant Bay. — Between Gordon and Cowitchiu lloads, ou the western
side of Haro Strait, is a good stopping place, and easy of access under most
circumstances. It may bo entered either to the southward or northward of
Zero Eock; the passage to the southward is 1^ mile in breadth, with a
depth of 20 fathoms. Mount Douglas, a remarkable hill, 696 feet high, with
its summit bare of trees, rises immediately over the coast at the head of the
bay. Johnstone Reef lies three-quarters of a mile from the shore, midway
between Cadboro Point and Gordon Head, is marked by kelp, and of small
extent. Three shoal patches, with from 6 to 12 ft. on them, lie W. i S., one to
IJ mile distant from Zero liock. There is but little stream of tide in
Cormorant Bay when within the Zero Rock, and the liolding ground is gooil.
Although there are many harbours among the archipelago of islands
which form the Haro Strait and its tributary channels, yet the number
eligible for sailing vessels overtaken by darkness or an averse tide is compa-
ratively small.

Between Cormorant Bay and the northern entrance of Haro Strait,
I'lumper Sound and Cowlitz Bay are the only eligible stopping places for a
sailing vessel seeking shelter.

Stuart Island, indeed, affords two fair harboiirs, and Roche Harbour, at
the north-west end of San Juan Island is a suitable anchorage lor steamers
or small coasters, but no sailing vessel of moderate toimage could enter
either under ordinary circumstances without great loss of time as well as risk.

Tides. The stream of tide runs fairly through the main channel of Haro

Strait, outside the Kelp Reefs, and inside them through the Cordova and
Sidney Channels, passing outside the Kelp Reefs, and eastward of Sidney
Island, a part of the flood stream will be found to branch off to the oastward,
between San Juan and Stuart Islands, and there meeting the flood from the
Middle Channel, cause heavy races and eddies, so that although there are
deep-water channels between these islands, they are not recommended for
sailing vessels ; in like manner the flood runs to the N.W. between the
group of islands northward of Sidney Island, and through Shute and
Moresby Passages, though the main stream will be found to run fairly be-
tween Stuart and Moresby Islands.

PLUMPER SOUND. — If from any cause it should be found necessary to
anchor in that bend of the Haro Strait between Stuart Island and tlie East
lioiut of Saturna Island, this sound is recommended as a safe and conve-
North I'cmjic. u

i uiil i rij i w ii Vi ii S wi i wn iii w rti

290

HARO STRAIT.

iiioiit linrliotir, oasy of access witli tho wind from any quartor. It is fomod
l.otwot'n r»Mulor and Saturna Islands, and tho ontran(!e lies N.N.E. i E. r*
miles from Turn I'oint of Stuart Island, and an oqnal distance from the
East point of Saturna. Blunden Island, about 2 cables in length, and close
to the shore, forms tho western entrance point ; Monarch ITead, a high, bold.
TM'ky headland, tho eastern. The sound runs in a W.N.W. direction for
6 miles, with an average breadth of H mile. There is anchorage in .i mo-
derate depth of water in most parts of it, as weU as several bays or harbours
if preferred.

There are no dangers at tho entrance ; either shore may be approached
close, in working up, and but little tide is felt.

Excellent anchorage may be had in almost any part ; tho most convenient
is off the entrance of Browning Harbour, on the South side of the sound, in
8 fathoms. Above Browning Harbour, tho only danger to be avoided in
working up the sound is Perry Rock, with 6 feet on it, marked by kelp ; it is
2 cables from the shore and N.W. by N., three-quarters of a mile from
Razor Point, the North point of the harbour.

Browning Harbour is on the South side of Plumper Sound, 3 miles within
the entrance ; it runs in a West direction for H mile, and is a third of n
mile wide, but rather less at the entrance. The depth of water decreases
gradually from 10 fathoms at the entrance to 4 fathoms at its head, witli
good holding ground.

Lyall Harbour and Winter Oove lie in the 8.E. comer of Plumper Sound,
and are indentations in the N.W. end of Saturna Island.

Lyall Harbour is the southernmost, and its southern entrance point, a
cliffy bluff, bears N. i E., 2 miles from the entrance of Browning Harbour.
The harbour runs East for IJ mile, gradually narrowing and terminating
in a sandy beach with a good stream of fresh water at its head ; but the
Crispin Eock, with 6 ft. on it at low water, decreases its value as a harbour
for sailing vessels. This rock is a mere pinnacle, nearly half a mile within
the entrance ; there is no kelp to give warning of its position, and it lies
exactly in the middle of the harbour. Boot Cove, on the South side of the
harbour, a third of a mile within the South point, has 3 fathoms water, and
is a convenient spot for repairing a vessel, A small islet lies off its western

entrance point.

Samuel Island, between Saturna and Mayne Islands, is ahnost connected
with either, but leaving 2 passages by which boats or even small coasters
may pass into the Strait of Georgia at proper times of tide. This island is
indented on its southern side by several bays, among them Winter Cove,
which is formed between its south-eastern side and tho N.W. point of
Saturna, and is only half a mile northward of Lyall Harbour. The depth
of water in the cove being only from 2 to 3 fathoms, it is only fit for small
vessels, which must pass to the westward of King Islets, and on either side
of the Minx Reef.

NAVY CnANNEL-STUART ISLAND.

391

It is formed
.N.E. h E. h
mce from tlie
^h, and cIobo
a high, bold,
. direction for
rage in .i mo-
ys or harbours

be approacUed

ost convenient
' the sound, in
be avoided in
by kelp ; it is
f a mile from

3 miles within
is a third of n
rater decreases
its head, witli

lumper Sound,

trance point, a
ming Harbour,
nd terminating
head; but the
le as a harbour
If a mile within
ion, and it lies
uth side of the
jms water, and
8 oflf its western

Imost connected
L small coasters
This island is
im Winter Cove,
N.W. point of
ur. The depth
ily fit for small
I on either side

NAVY CHANNEL ia a continuation of the wostia-n part of Plimipor
Sound, and leads between Tendor and Mayuo Islands into the Tvin.omalio
Channel. Independently, therefore, of its value as an nn.horago, Plumper
Sound becomes a high road for vessels bound into the Strait of Georgia or
Frasor River by the Active Pass, or to Nanaimo, or any of the north-western
ports of Vancouver Island. From the north-westorn end of the sound
abreast Fane Island the channel runs West for 3 miles, when it enters Trin-
comalie Channel between Mayne and Provost Islands ; its average breadth

ishalfamilo.

Conconi Reef lies about midway through Navy Channel, 1| mile from
Fane Island, and nearly 2 cobles off the northern shore, and narrows the
strait at that imrt to a third of a mile. It is a ledge of rocks extending in
the direction of the channel for more than a cable's length, and covering at
half tide ; its vicinity is marked by kelp.

The Enterprize Reefs are two rocky patches, the westernmost of whicli
dries at low water, and both are marked by kelp. The outermost of these
reefs lies W.N.W. 1 mile from Dinner Point, the N.W. entrance point of
Navy Channel, and 8. by E. two-thirds of a mile from Helen Point, the
South point of Active Pass. Vessels using Navy Channel should keep
rather southward of mid-channel. The shores of Ponder Island are bold.

BedweU Harbour, on the 8.E. part of Pender Island, the entrance to
which bears North 3 miles from Turn Point of Stuart Island, and is the
same distance westward of the southern entrance of Plumper Sound, is, on
account of its narrower entrance, not so eligible a stopping place for vessels
waiting the tide as the latter; but for steamers it is a good harbour. Its
narrowest part, which is at the entrance, is a quarter of a mile in breadth,
but it soon opens out to half a mile, and runs in a W.N.W. direction for 2
miles, the depth of water being from 5 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom. The
only danger which does not show is the Ikew Rock, with 10 feet on it. in the
centre of the harbour a third of a mile from its head. Camp Bay, between
BedweU Harbour and Plumper Sound, and half a mile westward of Blunden
Island, offers shelter as a stopping place to small craft, when not convenient
to work into either of these ports.

8TUAET ISLAND, lying 3 miles north-westward of the northern part ot
the island of San Juan, is 3 miles long in an East and West direction, of an
irregular shape, and about 650 ft. high, the summits of the hiUs partially
bare of trees. Turn Point, its N.W. extreme, a bold cliffy bluff, forms the
salient angle of the Haro Strait, where it changes its direction suddenly from
N W by N to N.E. before entering the Strait of Georgia. There are two
anchorages in Stuart Inland, Reid Harbour on its southern side, and Prevost
Harbour on its northern, but both are small and intricate for saihng vessels
above the size of coasters.
Johns Island, with its numerous off-lying reefs, lies to the eastward ot

nARO STTIAIT.

,.,„Jiuan East au.l Wo«t .'l-"^^-"' ''^J; f^t orn nido thi.kly woo.lo.l.

'oreel Point, its oantorn oxtron.o - -^'^ K^ ,^,^ j „ ,,„ ,,,nh.ara, and
nolonoithorm<l.M.fSim,cloulHlana. Now Ui

Spiodon Channel to thc< m.uthwarrt. ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ j^^^^„^ ,,,,„ ,

^Spieden Charmel ...w- ;^' ^ ^ ^^l^^^^^ ,,,.„,. Oroou roint a«.l

Ronoral W. by S. dirctum. 1^ '^'^^^'J^ ^.j,, ^.jao. and for '2 mdos tho

fho N.E. point of Han Juan, -^-'-J*";^ ^^ ^^^ „,,.,,,, .,f tho tlood-tid..

water is deep and a.u- ''^ l^^^^;;; ^^^^^^^^^^ Channel. ,— heavy

however, fnnn "-f^'-tv^'dU,!^" 'ether with the general absence
ripplings and irregular ed.bes, and tue,^ ^^^^ ^^^^,^^„^^„^, f,,

of'Lady winds, render ^^^^^J^^,,, .,th numerous reefs and

saiHng vessels ; its western entrance is one

shoals with irregular soundmgs. ^^^^^^^^ ^^ j, ,^^11,

Sentinel Island stands .n the ^^f^l^^'^^^^^^ e.S.E. two-thirds of a
WreonitsBOuthe™.de^aboutl 0^^^^^^^^ ^^^^, ,, 1

,,Ue from Spiodon Bluff. ^^"""^ ^^^ ^ ^^ j, hears from Sontmel

,,,ter. and aln.ost in the ^^^ ^^XTB,i.^en Bluff, the western ox-
IslaudS.W.by 8 nearlyhali amlc,^^^^J^^.^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^,

treme of that island, S^E. by »• m ^ ^ j. ^ j, ^„, ^j, .

Morse Island, off the North l--*;/^;^^ ^^„,^ ,,t it is sometimes run
tho kelp will genordly ^« ^^ ^^^^ '^^^^^^^^^^ it has two fathoms on

under, ^-i'- «''''« V?T> ''hnTdwap ^* ^''^^^

,, .,a is marked jj^^^r. thou.h ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^ ,

from Spioden Blufl S S AV. . NV . i ^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^j^^^^^.j^ e. by N.

it'ori^ris.^;- -^ ^^ ^-^ -"^

,he Bpieden Channel ^^^ould P^ abou qu ^^.^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^„^„

-^^ of M.-se ^;1-^: -;j^ r, S hoaxs N.W. ; the dangers will then
,f Spiodeu l^l'-^l';^^, ^^^'j;, „,y he steered through,
ho passed, and a straight -«^«; ""^^ ^^ .^ ^he passage between Spieden
I? hound westward tl>-?l;; ^Whan^^^^^^^ P ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ,^

and Sentinel Islands is -^^^^J' ^^^f JV^ the tide races,
kept aboard within ^^^^j'j,^ Spi,deu Island, though narrower than
New Chaimel to the northward of Spie^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^.^^^^^

SAN JUAN ISLAND.

•j'j;«

f 10 fathoms, >i"t
with till' bx'vlity-

itH H(mtht>ni Hi'l"
thickly woodotl.
Thoro IB a clian-

w)rthwar(l, and

1 Han Juan, has a
I Groon Toint and
md for '2 nxiloH tho

of tho lloud-tidc,
mnol, cauHOH lioavy
10 gonoral abHontc
and dangorons for
nuniorous rocfs and

annol. It ih small,
I.E. two-thirds of a
itch, awash at low
joars from Sontinol
lutf, the wostorn ox-
f a milo; and from
N.E. J E. one milo ;
it is Bometimoa run
t has two fathoms on
tinguised. It hoars
aile. Bare Islet is a
the channel, E. byN.
tch of 15 feet nearly

the eastward through

a mile or less north-

int, tho East extreme

tho dangers will then

igh.

sage between Spieden

1 Island should still be
do races.

though narrower than
Br, and the navigation
land is bold and steep,
channel is a (luarter

SAK JUAN ISLAND, the wrstom wast of which foms for somo dis-
tance the oHHtt'nj boundary of llaro Strait, is of ((mHidfrablo si/o, being 1.3
miloH in Irngtii in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with an avcragn lireadth of
about I niilt'H.* Its west rii shorcH are steep and rocky, and utford no an-
chorage, HoundingH from 100 to I.'iO fathoms being found witliin lialf a mih
of tho coast. Mount l)alla» ristis ul)ruptly to a hciglit of 1,080 feet, but tho
eastern side of tho island falls in a morogonti- -lopo, and affords a consider-
nblo extent of good land available for agricultural or grazing purpoHcn.
Towards the southern end, and visible from seaward, are some wiiito build-
ings, the fanning establishmont of tin* Hudson liny (.'ompany;!- the south-
caHtom ext/omo, which forms ono of tlui entrance points of the Miildle Chan-
nel, terminates in a white clay cliff, over which rises Mount Finlayson to a
height of bM) foot.

Off tho N.W. end of San Juan lies Henry Inland, boing only separated from
it by a narrow chacnel called Mosquito I'assago. Henry Island would bo
♦i>ken as a part of Han Juan, tho passage appearing mcndy as an indentation.

h'fiyt liliiff, the S.W. point of tho island, nuikes as tlio moat prominent
headland on tho eastern side of llaro Strait, wlien seen from the southward.
Immediately eastward of it is Open Bay, which has more tho ai)poaraiu^o of
a channel than tho true one, Mosquito Passage. There is no shelter oitlior
in tho bay, or anchorage in the passage, for anything beyond coasters.

Mosquito Passage runs in a northerly and N.N.W. dirocition for A miles,
is something over half a mile in breadth, and is studded with numerous roofs,
which are marked by kolp. Wlien a mile within tho passage, Wedeott Creek,
an indentation in San Juan, branches off to tho N.E., and affords a haven
) r coasters. At the northern entrance of Mosquito Passage, tho space be-
tween San Juan and Henry Islands opens out considerably, and tho depth of

• Lord Milton's excollont work on tho political importance of Sun Juan, and tho dis-
cuHHion which it has given rise to, has been before alluded to.

t Captain R. C. Mayne, R. N., in his interesting book, "Four Years in British Columbia
and Vancouver Ishmd " (employed on tho siirvny), thus speaks of San Juan Island. There
is more land available for agriculture here than on any other of the group ; and of this tho
Hudson Bay Company took advantage some years ago, and established a sheep-farm upon
it. Tliis farm has ever since its establishment been in charge of Mr. Griffin, a gentleman
whose kindness and hospitality render him every one's friend. It is situated on a beautiful
prairie at the S.E. end of the island, which, rising 140 feet above tho water, looks most at-
tractive to the emigrant passing onward toward tho Eraser. I have never seen wild flowers
elsewhere grow with the beauty and luxuriance they possess hero. Toihaps I cannot illus-
trate the attractions of St. Juan better, than by saying that it was tho spot selected by his
Excellancy the Governor's daughter and niece in which to spend their honeymoon.

At one time I believe the Company had as many as 3,000 sheep on the island, dis-
tributed at various stations, all under Mr. Griffin's charge. His house, which is very
pLmsantly situated, looks out on the Strait of Fuca, and commands a magnificent view up
Admiralty Inlet. Directly in front of it lies a bank, which is a very favourite fishing-
stat on of the Indians, where thoy catch a large number of salmon and halibut.

TT^^rsttMsaNfr

„(ll nAEO STEAIT.

' . ■ . Thi. .W.C,. form. K.,fc »*•". "''i* "'"" ''° '"f;!

water iiKKaM's. lhm«p«i<i)r. ...„,„,„„„ i, .omowliat coufmcd

h„. „ot u„ea.y of acc„., -f 'Vl"™ rM,M ^pl « «f a mile
7,W. a Bmall «.t cliffy Mand about 30 o„ h.gh, '-« » ^ ^^ jj,,,^,,

* * rt"lt.ter. »de of Wa,dro.„ ..et.oe. Di«„y and Sandy
P.r t«l'.ocdaneWo.H.an™dM.oa«pth of .^^^^^^^^

f2™ irr^ali^ot « ^10 off ,l.o«, Wt it . not by any ™an. do-

sirablo place as Cowlitz Bay. , 5

Danger Rock.-..This dangerou. reef, menhoned on page 280 ^utU on^
feotTn it an<^ on which the kelp is rarely seen, hes S.B. by h. i E a thud
S a Tuilo Z.. mite Roc., whicn is 25 feet above high water, and has also
a covering rock extending 2 cables to the N.W. of it.

TrWESTERN C.hAnELS of HAEO STEAIT may be used wxth ad-
va!Lg. by sllers or coasters bound from Uie southern port, of Vunc^jver
Island to tL Strait of Georgia, or to the districts of Saamch, Cowitchm,
NaTin^^, andthenumeroulter.^^^^^ harbour; their advantages over
fheZo Strait consist in a less strength of tide with sheltered anchorae
.a^:: all parts, while in the latter strait the d^>th of -^er . so gre
thatitisinipLbleto anchor, and sailing vessels niay ^^^^^ ^
hack int« Fuca Strait, thus entailing great delay as well as risk n
thtoL hand, the western channels are not free f-/-^-' J^^ ;t^
the assistance of the chart, and a good look out from aloft for kelp, thej may
be navigated during daylight with ease and safety.

Sidney Channel-Having passed either inside or outside Zero Eock aM
intending to take the Sidney Channel, between Sidney .md James Islands.
^vhieh is the best, the foUowing directions should bo observed

The southern face of Jrmes Idand is a moderately high and steep m Wo
clay chfi; its summit covered with trees; towards the eastern l-'t ^f/^^
ff are iwo remarkable notches on its summit. Steer to the N.N.AV . to
bring Mount Tuam (on the southern point of Admiral IsLmd) over the centre

CORDOVA CHANNEL-COAL ISLAND.

2(1.)

ich must be entered
is Bomewliat coiifmed
when within. Mam
s a quarter of a mile
10 tjiitranco of Eoche
vessels leaving Roche
to Passage.
»f the Middle Channel,

jls pasKing to or from

ly high, and cllfly on

[iward, where it termi-

extreme, is a reniark-

reen Disney and Sandy
ith of water from 5 to
ay he sometimes more
[) into Plumper Sound,

I anchorage iu 8 to 10
not by any moans de-

I page 280, with only 5
3.B. by E. i E., a third
ligh water, and has also

7 may be used with ad-
hem ports of Vancouver
of Saanich, CWatthin,
; their advantages over
ith sheltered anchor ago
,th of water is so great,
1 may frequently bo set
■ as well as risk. On
e from danger, yet with
31 aloft for kelp, they may

r outside Zero Rock, and
Inoy iuid James Islands,

10 observed,

)ly high and steep whito

the eastern part of this

Steer to the N.N.AV. to

ral Island) over the centre

between those two notches bearing N.W. by VV., and this mark will lead
wostwardof the ;?-fatliom patcli off Darny Island, and between it and the
shoal of 9 foot extending south-eastward of James Island.

The breadth of tho channel is nearly a mile, with from M to 20 fatlu)ms,
until neai- its norther, end, where a patch with 3 fatlioms, nuirked by kelp,
lies 3 cibles' length j off the western point of Sidney Island ; this is avoided
by not shutting in tho passage between Darcy and Sidney Island.^, until
the north-west end of Sidney Spit, a long, sandy tongue with a few trees
on its extreme, bears N. There is good anchorage off this s]nt in S fathoms.
Cordova Channel, westward of James Island, lietween it and tluj main
Island of Vancouver, is a fair passage with anchorage along tli<» shor(( of
the main island and little tide. It is not, however, to be preferred to the
Sydney Channel, as a sand -bank with 15 feet on it lies in tho centre of tho
southern entrance.

Miners Channel.— Low and Bare Islands are two small islands lying off
the eastern side of Sidney Island, and between them and the latter there is
a good passage, three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with H) fathoms the least
water. This channel may often prove convenient for vessels having passed
up Haro Strait eastward of the Kelp Roofs, and desiring to take tho inner
channels to Saanich, Cowitchin, or through Stuart Channel. Midway be-
tween Low and Baro Islands, and on the line between their N.W. points, is a
reef which uncovorin.

Having passed to the northward of Sidney Island, either by Cordova, Sid-
ney, or Miners Channels, the Shute or Moresby Passages may be taken as
convenient.

Shute Passag'e.~To enter this passage, after leaving Sidney Spit, pass
between Jones Island and the liittle Group, then eastward of Coal Isiand,
Knapp and Pym Islands, and between Piers and Portland Islands, when
the Satellite Channel will be entered, which leads directly to Saanicli,
Cowitchen, and the westora ports of Vancouver Island. Tliis is a good,
dear channel, and with the assistance of the chart may be used with much
facility.

Jones Island lies North from Sidney Spit two-thirds of a mile, with a clear
passage between. Tfie Little Group lie W. by N. two-thirds of a mile from
Jones Island. They consist of four rocky islets, bare of trees, and connected
by reefs. Bird Md, lying on the eastern side of Shuto Passoge, and N.N.W.
two- thirds of a mile from the North point of Joues Island, is about 6 feet
above high water,

Coal Island, which helps to form the western side of Shuto Passage, lies

dose off the N.E. extreme of the Saanich Peninsula, and immediately at the

entrance of Shoal Harbour. It is a mda in extent, and thickly wooded, and

its eastern and northern shores are free from danger.

A rock, which cover? at quarter ilood, lies W.N.W. 1 cable;, from th^

29fi

HAEO STRAIT.

East end of tho Kvoiip, and S.S.p]. nearly two-thirds of a milo from the East
point of tho ishmd. A small patch with 4 fathoms over it, and marked by
k(!lp, lies N.E. ouo milo from tho East point of Coal Island, N.N.W. i W.,
more than three-quarters of a milo from Bird Islet, and one-third of a mile
S.W. from Yellow Islet.

Celia Rfipf mwfii also be avoided. The least water foimd on it is 9 feet ; it
is marked by kelp, and lies North two-thirds of a mile from tho North point
of Pym Island. Knapp and Pym Idands are small and wooded, lying be-
tween Piers and Coal Islands. Having passed westward between these is-
lands a vessel is fairly in Satellite Channel.

Moresby Passage.— After leaving the northern end of Sidney Island, tho
dirootions for Mf)rosby Passage are the same as those already given for
Shuto I'assage, until abreast tho East point of Coal Island. From a berth
about one-third of a milo off this point, the direct course through tlie pas-
sage is North by West for two miles, or until near its northern entrance,
which lies between Portland and Moresby Islands. This space is wide, and
free from danger ; it then becomes somewhat intricate, from tho TumbuU
Keef and Canoe Eocks, which extend off both these islands, narrowing tho
channel at its northern entrance to little over one-third of a milo.

Off tho eastern point of Portland Island are three rocky islets, the. Sisters,
which extend to a distance of nearly 2 cables. They are about 25 feet high,
have a few stunted cedar trees on their summits, are joined by reefs, and
wiU be immediately recognised either from the northAvard or southward.
Eastward from tho Sisters, at a distance of more than one-third of a milo,
extends the Tiimhull Reef. Two fathoms is the least water found on its outer
edge, and it is marked by a heavy bank of kelp. Came Rochs is a dangerous
lodge, extending \V. \ N., neai'ly half a mile from Eeef Point, tho north-
west point of Moresby Island ; the outer rock of this ledge covers a little
after half flood, and is not marked by kelp, though kelp grows between the
point and the rock. When both or either of these dangers are visible tho
passage is very easy.

Prevost Passage lies between Moresby Island and the group of smaller
islands to the southward of it, and leads by tho Shuto or Moresby Passages
into Satellite Channel. To a vessel passing up the main stream of llaro
Strait, and bound for the Swanson Channel, tho easiest and most direct route
is between Stuart and Moresby Islands ; but circumstances of wind or tide
may render it convenient to take tho Provost Passage.

The dangers to be avoided in Prevost Passage are the Arachne and Cooper
Eoefs. The Arachne lies nearly in tho centre of the passage, in a direct
lino between Fairfax Point, tho S.E. point of Moresby Island, and Tom
I'oiut, the East point of Gnoch Island. This reef covers at quarter flood,
and has a good deal of kelp on its N.W. edge, which, however, is frequently
liiddon by the tide.

from the East.
md marked by
N.N.W. i W.,
third of a mile

n it is 9 feet ; it
tlio Nortli point
jdod, lying bo-
3twi)en these is-

iney Island, the
ready given for

From a berth
irough the pas-
•thom entrance,
»aco is wide, and
ni the TumbuU

narrowing the
mile.

lots, thfi Sisters,
jut 25 feet high,
d by reefs, and

1 or southward,
tliird of a mile,
ound on its enter
!;« is a dangerous
oint, the north-
e covers a little
)ws between the

are visible the

roup of smaller
Moresby Passages

stream of llaro
most direct route

of wind or tide

chne and Cooper
age, in a direct
sland, and Tom
it quarter llood,
rer, is frecpicntly

SATELLITE CHANNEL— SAANlCn INLET.

297

Cooper Ri'ef, lying half a mile N. by W. of Tom Point of Gooch Island, is
marked by kelp, and uncovers at half ebb.

Yellow hhind, a small bare island S.W. by W. nearly one mile from Fair-
fax Point, may be passed on either side. Tlie North side is recommended ;
if passing on its South side, take care to avoid the small patch of 4 fathoTns
marked with kelp, mentioned in page 295 as lying 8.W., a third of a mile

from it.

SATELLITE CHANNEL is formed by Admiral Island on the North, and
Moresby, Portland, and Piers Islands, and the northern shore of Saanitch
Peninsula on the South. It leads to Saanich Inlet, Cowitchin Ilarljour,
and by the Sansum Narrows to Stuart Channel. It is a fair deep passage,
with but few dangers, which are not always visible ; among these are Shute
Eeef and Patey Eock.

Shite Reef is a ledge less than half a cable in extent, with two rocks, one
of which dries 8 feet at low water, its vicinity being marked by kelp. It lies
W.S.W. two-thirds of a mile from Harry Point, the North point of Piers
Island, and N. | E. nearly 3 cables from Arbutus, a small islet lying half a
mile westward of Piers Island.

Patey Roek, at the western end of Satellite Clmnnel, is a single rock,
uncovering at half tide with kelp round it, and is in the way of vessels work-
ing into Saanich Inlet or Cowitchin Harbour. It bears from Hatch Point,
the westernmost point of Saanich Inlet, N.E. by N., two-thirds of a mile,
from Coal Point, a remarkable nob point, the South extreme of Deep Cove,
N.W. by W. i W. nearly 2 miles, and from Arbutus Island S.W. by W. i

W. 3i miles.

Cecil Rock, lying S.E. i S. a quarter of a mile from the S.W. point of
Eussell Island at the entrance of Fulford Harbour, must also bo avoided in
working up Satellite Channel. Boatstvain Bank, on the western side of the
channel, affords good anchorage in from 4 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. It
extends three-quarters of a mile from the Vancouver shore, between Cherry
and Hatch Points.

SAANICH INLET is a deep indentation running in a nearly S.S.E. direc-
tion for 14 miles, carrying deep water to its head, which terminates in a
narrow creek within 4 miles of Esquimalt Harbour. The inlet fonns a pe-
ninsula of the S.E. portion of Vancouver Island of about 20 miles in a
N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and varying in breadth from 8 miles at its
southern part to 3 miles at its northern.

(3n the southern coast of this peninsula are the harbours of Esquimalt and
Victoria, in the neighbourhood of which for some 5 miles the country is
pretty thickly wooded, its prevailing features lake and mountain, with, how-
ever, some considerable tracts of clear and fertile land ; the northern portion
for about 10 miles contains some of th;> best agricultural land in Vancouver
Island, the coast line is fringed with pine forests, but in the centre it is clear

■ T: ff' Aa-fM!^ y? * >^'y»'»W'^^"^^"»i:'g*^^*^^''*"

»^^*«Nw*->-.'<.s--^- f.'-v .- ■mCr>'r**Tt-T -^■'' -t'* --^«^-rTi*r.- -=-,r^-

HABO STEAIT.

"'. ,„„.,.a, ana .- out u„a. ctw*.., — - >«„

praine or oas "i""»

couvoniont anchorage. - g 2 caHos from James

";... Eock, awa^h at h^ ^^^"'JH^^-^i^t. Vessels rounding tUlspo.nt
Point with 12 fathoms between it and the p

should give it a berth of half a mile ^^^^^,^ ,^, ,,,th-

rOWrrCHIN HARBOTIE '^^ ^ ^'^"^^ ^'"'l^'^^ the western point of on-
Jtrmfof Admiral Island-. ^^^X^t:^^. ,^, and is some-
tree of Sansum Narrows, forms its n rthe ^^^^ g
Ta rem-kable, being the ^^^X;?^; to the southward. Cowit^hm
Tuddenly. and running off as a low sha^P^ ,^„ g,,eral depth of

::t to tke -«twai^«^ tXLtl-ily ,,the Bat, ^« ^Vift
.ater in it is 30 fathoms, f^^^Xo.^ ^^ the harbour, is approach d. Bu
fnr more than half a mile from the hoatt ^^ Cowitchm, the

t re 4«*-*«^ «^^' '"' T:2e Tn eUainly thetermof bay is
^^Ud scarcely ^^^^^^^^^itX^ The only convenient anchorage
Lore appUcable to ■^^^^-^'';^'''^t^ort^^ side of the harbour, or off the
to be obtained is m SnugCm^' on ^^^ ^^^^^^^^

outer village on the South side, a - «J ^^^^ between Vancouver

SMi.ma Narrows run in a general north r^. ^^^^ .^^^ g,^^„,,

andTdmiral Islands for ^/^^^ ^b jt^ a mile, but at their na.owe«t
Chamiel. Their average ^^f *^ " ^^^^^^^^^ «tore, 2i miles above Separa-
It abreast Bold Bluff! on t^e ^^^^^^^^^^^ , ,,«. The high land on either
--T' TerrgrrrveTu-ady. H camiot be recommended
:^;t:r:«.^asting v^s^. ^^^^^ ^,,, ,t^^

JtorinB Ban^ra Narrow. frou> 40 K.™ ^.^^ ^ „,„„ g.g.W.

^.TtuI bo aWdod oo ..e ^^^^^Jj^* ^t e. by «. fro-n Boraraiion

Point, and 8.B. j 8. half a milo m j^^__^ y,^, ^^jom .iil«

r„ *or rociy patch ..t»d. -»* -*^l.,„„a of Entranco Wat.
„»hoNarro,..tl^;.;^»;';»Lbor,in„lao«.Ue.o„tboca*ra

/J,W«J /*'. » ="'■" *f !° „v„e Separation Point.

.ido ot tho Narrow., U ™lo above P ^^^^^ .^ ^_j^,^j,_j„ .

Bargo,.. Baj-J*.'* «»/.■;. '"""^^Sf."-,.. Bnrgoyno Day, tbo
torn in the bay under 30 fathom

.^.m

STUAUT CllANNEIi.

299

B of coal hnvo

B good amhor-
' BOiitlnvard of
3p Covo, but no

Ics from James
mdingtliis point

'fippel, the 8o;ith-
orn point of on-
it, and is some-
ridgo dropping
ward. Cov-itcbin
general depth of
;, which dries off
approached. But
af Cowitchin, the
;he term of bay is
■vonient anchorage
larbour, or off the

between Vancouver
y lead into Stuart
t at their narrowest
miles above Separa-
high land on either
ot be rcconimonded

p patch, with 9 feet
Ues 2 cables S.S.W.
f N. from Separation

from the eastern side
rd of Entrance Point.
»ce, lies on the eastern

bare roclj, is steop-to ;
Burgoyne Bay, the
Jh\tf, is a naiTOW and
ad. There is no bot-
ablos of its head, when

the water shoals suddenly ^.om 10 to 4 fatho„.s. Anchorage may be had if
"rr Bay.--From Grave Point the Narrows take a north-westerly direc-

wth 2 fathom , extends nearly a cable off the West side of the cov .

STUART CHAN1IEL.-Sansum Narrows extend IJ milo northward of
M^b!v wheTthly lead into Stuart Channel, the westernmost of the

-t '' ''^:^^^^ - =i^;:r "i^ i:^.

^f;^^!:^:':^^^-- and Escape Beefs, White Pock, and

""Zhfwestern or Vancouver Island shore there are some good harbours,

viflsborBay, Horse-shoe Bay, Oyster ^arbo^^r, and ChemamosBay;

nth all sSe there are also some anchorages, ^^^^^V^^^'/^^

harbours on the western, and Clam Bay on the eastern s.de of Thetis

'' Osbom Bay. the southernmost anchorage on the western side of Stuart
ChanneTmay beknownby the Shoal Islands, a low wooded group, con-
"t Jwater by reefs and mud banks, and wh^ Jo-^he northe.
Bide of the bay. The bay affords good anchorage, sheltered from the pre
vailinff winds, from the westward and S.E. . ^„ x na^

Theclt north-westward of Osbom Bay, between it and Horse-shoe Bay.
Jhoa f" some distance off, deepening suddenly when half a mde from the
lore and vessels should by no means approach it withxn that distance^

H irLe Bay. 4 miles north-westward of Osbom Bay, wdl be known
bv a I'r remaLble sharp point iBare Point) bare at its extreme wh.ch
f.' LTeastern entrance. There is convenient anchorage for smal vessels
S n ! q-ter of a mile of its head. The Sird lt.f a rocky ledge un^
rotrglhalf tide. extendsacable'Blength from theshorenorth-^^^^^^^^

of the western point of entrance, and bears from Bare Pomt W. by S. half

' oyster Harbour is 4 miles W.N.W. firom Horse-shoe Bay, the interven-
i„!coast being free from daa^ger •, the harbour runs in the same direction for
4 ties is nearly a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually wihm.
F,"Sl IVom L northward. Coffin Islet should bo given a berth of 2 ca-
bC tic -e no other dangers which are not visible. At low water the

300

IIARO STRAIT.

oyster beds dry for 2 cables ofif the South shore. A good anchorage for a
large vessel is a mile within the entrance.

It is high water at full and change in Oyster Harbour at 6" 30" p.m., and
the rise is 10 feet.

Chmainot Bay is 2J mUes northward of the entrance of Oyster Harbour,
and W. by S. the same distance from Eoof Point, the N.W. point of Thetis
Island. It is open and cannot be rtcommonded.

Yellow Point, bare and grassy at its extreme, is the North point of Che-
mainos Bay. From thence to Bound Island, at the southern entrance of
Dodd Narrows, and bearing N.W. 5 miles, the coast is bold and free from

^Trom the northern entrance of Sansum Narrows to North Reef, a dis-
tance of 4 miles, there are no dangers, and both shores may be approached
boldly in working up.

North Eeef is a sandstone ledge running in a north-westerly and south-
easterly direction, as all the reefs in this channel do. It bears from the
S E point of Tent Island 3. 4 E. half a mile, with a clear channel be-
tween of 26 fathoms. Its summit is just awash at high water, and there-
fore easily avoided.

Tent Island, narrow, and two-thirds of a mile long, Ues oflf the South
extreme of Kuper Island, and a cable's length off its S.E. end are two
remarkable worn sandstone rocks 8 or 10 feet above water ; the breadth of
the passage between them and North Eeef is one-third of a mile. N E. A
E. nearly 2 cables from the south-east end of Tent, is a rock which un-
covers 2 feet.

Escape Reef, at 2 miles N.W. by W, i W. from North Reef, is a dan-
gerous patch, nearly one-third of a mile in extent, in a W.N.W. and E.8.E.
direction, which covers at quarter flood, and has no kelp to mark its position.
It lies nearly half a mile from the West shore of Kuper Island ; there is a
deep channel a third of a mile wide between it and Kuper Island.

Alarm Rock is scarcely in the track of vessels working up Stuart Chan-
nel It lies nearly 2 cables 8. by W. from the S.E. point of Hudson Island,
the south-easternmost of the group of islands, which lie off the western sides
of Kuper and Thetis Islands. It just covers at high water. Fahe Rock hes
N.W. by W. i W. 4 cables from Scott Island, the north-westward of the
group just mentioned, and covers at half flood.

White Rock, about 30 yards long, and 15 feet above high water, lies
N N W., one mUe from Reef Point, the north-west extreme of Thetis
Island 'This rock has a whitish appearance, and is readily distinguished
from a.ve8sel's deck at 2 or 3 miles. It may be passed within 2 cables'

lengths.

Ragged Island, a low rocky islet, with a few trees on it, Ues a third of a

DANGER REEF-8WANS0N CHANNEL.

301

rage for a

° p.m., and

r Harbour,
t of Thetis

int of Che-
entrance of
id free from

Reef, a dis-
approached

and south-
irs from the
channel be-
, and there-
of the South
end are two
e breadth of
lile. N.E. A
ik which un-

lef, is a dan-
V. and E.8.E.
k its position,
d; there is a
md.

Stuart Chan-
[udson Island,
( western sides
False Rock lies
jstward of the

gh water, lies
)me of Thetis
r distinguished
ithin 2 cables'

es a third of a

mile northward of the North end of Thetis Island, with a passage of 12
fathoms between them.

DANQER REEF covers a space of 3 cables almoHt in the centre of the
channel. A small portion of it is generally awash at high water, at which
time it is difficult to make out until within a short distance of it. White
Rock bears from itS.E. by S. distant one mile; and Tree Islet N.E. i N.,
two-thirds of a mile.

In passing through Stuart channel, there is a clear passage of U mile
between Danger Reef and the Vancouver Island shore, and going either up
or down the channel, White Rock kept on with the low neck (a gap between
the two summits of Thetis Island) leads well to the westward of the reef.
There Is a clear passage of three-quarters of a mile between White Rock and
Danger Reef, and of more than half a mile between the reef and Tree Island,
with a depth of over 30 fathoms.

Vesuvius Bay, on the western side of Admiral Island, immediately oppo-
site Osborn Bay, has deep water, but shoals suddenly at its head. It is not
recommended as an anchorage. There is also anchorage inside Idol Met in
Houston Passage.

Grappler Eeef, on the eastern side of Houston Passage, is a cable in ex-
tent, and uncovers at very low water. It Ues a quarter of a mile off the
N.W. end of Admiral Island, with Southey Point bearing N.N.E. half a
mile ; there are 5 fathoms between it and the shore of the island.

TELEGRAPH HAEBOUE, on the West side of Kupei Island, is a snug
anchorage, and its entrance is between Hudson Island and Active Point,
which are half a mile apart. Entering from the southward, Escape Reef
must be avoided. If passing inside the reef, the shore of the island should
be kept aboard within a quarter of a mile : if outside or westward, then the
Sandstone Rocks should be kept open of the S.E. point of Tent Island, un-
til Upright Cliff of Kuper Island bears N.E. ; when a vessel will be well to
the northward of it, and may steer for the entrance of the harbour, which is
free from danger, with the exception of Alarm Reef, extending from the
S.E. point of Hudson Island.

Preedy Harbour is separated from the one just described by a group of
small islands and reefs ; its entrance is to the northward of them, between
Scott Island and Crescent Point of Thetis Island, and is a third of a mile in
breadth ; in entering the Thetis Island shore should be kept aboard to avoid
Fahe Rock, a patch which covers at half tide, and lies W.N.W. nearly 4
cables from the West end of Scott Island, and S.W. i S. half a mile from
Crescent Point.

SW ANSON CHANNEL leads from the Haro Strait to the north-westward
between Admiral Island on the West and Pender Island on the East ; pass-
ing eastward of Prevost Island it enters the Active Pass between Galiano and

302 HAEO STRAIT.

Mayne Islands, thence into the Strait of Georgia ; northward of Active Pass
it connects with Trincomalio Channel. , „ . ,. a

aSmIEAL island, separating the Stuart from the Trmcomalxe and
Swanson Channels, is of considerable extent, being nearly 5 miles m
Wh N W and S E.. and varying in breadth from 2 miles at its northern
endt faUts southe;n. It has two good ports. Fulford Harbour on its
Ith-east. and Ganges Harbour on its eastern side. The southern por .n
of the island (which is a peninsula formed by the indentations of Fulford
H^i ur a^d Burgoyne Bay. a valley separating the heads of these ports) is
composed of a lofty ridge of mountains over 2,000 feet in height, rising ab-

ruDtlv from all sides. .

Immediately northward of the valley and over Burgoyiae Bay on its
.esrem side Mount Baynes rises to an elevation of nearly 2.000 feet, and is
very remarkable ; its southern face being a perpendicular precipice, ^sible a
long distance from the southward or eastward. The 0«.r i?«.,. of some-
Ihft less elevation, rises northward of Mount Baynes. &-. -h-- ^^^
.land slopes away in a wedge shape, its northern ^^-^f -' /^^^^^y
Point, being a sharp extreme. The island is for the most part thickly

" F^ord Harbonr penetrates the S.E. side of Admiral Island in a W.KW.
direction for 2* mUes. At its entrance is Russell Island, between which
and IsabeUa Point, the western point of the harbour, is the best pas-

Ti" M. with 2 fathoms on it, Ues S.E. i S. a quarter of a mile from the
8 W point of the island. The breadth of the southern entrance is two-thirds
of a mUe with a depth of 20 fathoms untU abreast North Rock, which is a
small rociy islet lying close off the North point of the harbour; a rock
Thich cove's at quarter flood Ues West of it 2 cables length, and more than
U cable from the shore, so that strangers entering should keep rather to the
southward of mid-channel until past it. Mount Baynes appears very remark-
able from the harbour, rising immediately over its head almost as a perpen-
dicular cliff. The northern passage into the harbour between RusseU Island
and Eleanor Point, though in places not more than one-third of a mUe in
breadth is a safe channel of 14 to 18 fathoms water. Imua Eock, with only
one fathom on it, is the only danger; it lies 2 cables from the northern or

Admiral Island shore.

GAUGES HABBOUa is a safe and commodious port for vessels ol any
description or size. Its southern entrance, which is in the Swanson Channel
lies between Admiral and Prevost Islands, and has no dangers which are not
visible In entering, the Channel Islets may be passed on either side ; they
are two small wooded islands, U mile within Beaver Point, and 2 cables from
the shore of Admiral Island.

Liddell Point, the S.W. extreme of Prevost Island, and the northern

PREVOST ISLAND.

808

Active Pass

icomalie and
15 miles in
; its northern
irbour on its
hem portion
18 of Fulford
liese ports) is
it, rising ab-

Bay on its
) feet, and is
pice, visible a
pge, of some-
1 whence the
tion, Southey
; part thickly

inaW.N.W.
>etween which
the best pas-

, mile from the
e is two-thirds
>ck, which is a
rbour; a rock
and more than
p rather to the
rs very remark-
•Bt as a perpen-
L Bussell Island
rd of a mile in
Bock, with only
he northern or

vessels of any
vanson Channel
rs which are not
ither side ; they
nd 2 cables from

id the northern

entrance point of the harbour, has an uncovering reef extending IJ ca-
ble eastward of it. The Adand Islands, two in number, lie to the west-
ward of the point along the shore of Prevost Island, between which and
them there is no ship channel. The fair channel into the harbour is between
the Channel and Acland Islands, tho breadth between them is half a mile,
the depth 30 fathoms ; having passed these islands tho harbour is nearly 1^
mile wide, and the general depth for 2 miles, 20 fathoms.

There are but few dangers in working into the harbour, and thoy are
easily avoided. A rocky patch with one fathom on it lies W. i N. 2 cables
from the West point of the westernmost Acland Island, and nearly tho same
distance off shore. The one fathom patch is more in tho track of vessels ; it
Ues with tho southernmost Channel Islet bearing E. by S. i S. nearly 2 miles,
and Peile Point, the N.W. extreme of Prevost Island, North 2 miles, and is
half a mile from the southern or Admiral Island side of the harbour ; there
is a clear passage of half a mUe southward of tho patch in 14 fathoms. To
tho northward of it the passage is a mile wide.

A vessel may anchor aa soon as 10 or 12 fathoms is found. The Chain
Islands are a group of 6 or 7 low narrow islets connected by reefs, extending
from the head of the harbour in an E.S.E. direction for li mUe. To tho
southward of these islands the ground is clear, but to the northward of them
are scattered reefs, and a vessel is not recommended to anchor on that side
within the outermost island.

Captain Passage also leads into Ganges Harbour, to the northward of
Prevost Island. It is a clear deep passage, nearly half a mile wide, with
depths from 30 to 40 fathoms, and vessels from the northward intending to
enter should always use it. There is only one danger, which is well inside
Ganges Harbour, and is abnost equally in the track of vessels working up by
the southern passage ; it is a small patch of 2 fathoms lying 3J cables S.W.
by W. from the western entrance point of Long Harbour.

Long Harbour may be almost considered as part of Ganges Harbour.
It is a long, narrow creek, its general breadth being 2 to 3 cables, running
parallel with and eastward of the latter for 3 miles. Its entrance is between
two sloping, rocky points, similar to each other on the North side of Captain
passage. At a quarter of a mile within the entrance is a high, bare islet,
which must be passed on its South side ; one mile within is another island,
somewhat similar, which may be passed on either side. At the head of the
creek is a snug place for a ship to repair, &c., but as a harbour it is only
adapted to steamers or coasters, and, with the good and easy anchorage of
Ganges Harbour so close, there would appear to be no reason to recommend
this contracted and inconvenient one.

PREVOST ISLAND, lying in the centre of Swanson Channel, is mode-
rately high, thickly wooded, and of an irregular shape. I^ is 3 miles long,
in a N.W. and S.E. direction, li mile in breadth, and on its southern and

31,, HARO STRAIT.

.„*,„, .Ulo. it i» in,,.„t»l ,,y »vvra. Lay. «».. crook. . H. n„rt„™. .ido i,
„!,„„,. a ».raigl,taiffy.l...- ^^_^^__ j^.^^^,,, _^__^ „„, i,,,,

Klk. Ha), on tho 8.t. •■''" '^V"' ' „„„.thi,a in breadth, and alForJ.
roii.t.,i.tliro.-.|n«rtor«otamUodool.,byonot

fair anohorago with •« b"' •™^"'"''f '''t LI H I- "'"'. "»
„„.and ««<W 0„* on the -^r 111" f a » >« - - ■■'■ ^^
onrion,, -^'-■^"■';'''2Z^TlTot^^^i- and on .1,0 South

:rr;oi:r:or.r;.rtr:.o.io^^^^

marked by kelp, and uncovering towards low watot.
"l^^p/BB.-.ro.P>.3l-^^
irt^t^rt rl ««:: htt:; B^ adoptin, thi,

Eb,::-:ro:=oZ::Lr^^^^^^^^^^^

" Ate onloring Swansea Channel (page 301) between Ad„,ir.l and Pender
wtnd r. to .he eastward of Prevoet Wand. Pron. PorUock Po.nMh
.r..!™ blntfof Preyoet, the onttanoe of the pa.8 bear. N. by W. 1
wT»r Th!»uLn ^oin. ofentr.no., Helen Point i. low, bare
L of a yellowish colon,; ov.r iu northern side ris, the h.gh, stony
St onl sonAem side of OaUano Island. The entrance .uelf doe. n".
be»me U apparent nnUl it is approached within a m,lo. If oyer-

:irhy'niih.,Tr waiting --iti^-rofirt^: ^.1

.to bo had in the centre of the bay, in 8 fathoms, and no danger..

Z?a« ferdanger. U, be avoided in passing from 8w«»,n Channel
^TJpass; Lprincipalofftemi.tho Enterpn^ Eeef, two danger-
r,Ly,fi« which lie off the West side of Mayne Island.
InC ng up S--- Channel, keep Pelorus Point, the eastern extren.e
of Zi; Isld, open of Monatt Point, ^y-- '-"-;, fL^
,,^a. Xhe.tw„ point.^.. — f';:l7.rcwra'r;

rlVhea. N. by li., the reef U cleared, and the entrance may be stored

horn sulo is

id Kod iHllt
1, and nllbrds
i mud. An-
)ur side, aro

in an I^- l>y
on tho South
10 or two vus-

a small rocky
to shfU-beiuh
'. I N. of its
ped rocks, i.ot

jance of Haro
IBS, is just 40
route, not only
is avoided, viz.
la Island and
a vessel down
nearly 10 miles

ral and Pender
tlock Point, the
:s N. by W. h
t, is low, bare,
the high, stony
) itself does not
milo. If over-
side of Pender
itt Point, and 2i
very fair anchor-
md no dangers,
mer is preferred.
Jwanson Channel
leef, two danger-

b eastern extreme
;treme of ^'ender
i on to the reef,
Channel, a vessel
pen. When Helen
e may be steered

ACTIVE r.\sa.

.10.'.

for. There is a passflgo inside Enterprise Reef which may bo takfiu when
both the kelp patches can be seen.

On the western side of Swanaon Channel, tho uncovering rock, l,i cnblo
eastward of Liddell Point, must bo avoided, and tho points northward of it.
Red and Bright Islands, should be given a berth of a cable.

Active Pass runs in an E.N.E. direction for l.J mile, and then turns N.
for the same distance, fairly into the Strait of Georgia. Tho average breadth
of the channel is about one-third of a mile, and its general depth about 20
fathoms. There are n hif!don da -gera, but the great strength of the tides,
together with tho absei.co of steady winds, renders it unfit for sailing vessels,
unless, indeed, small coasters; for steamers it is an excellent channel,
and a vessel commanding a speed of 8 knots may take it at any time

without fear.*

A quarter of a mUe within the southern entrance, and very close ntl tho
northern shore, is a rock which uncovers at half tide. This is the only dan-
ger, and cannot be said to be in the track of vessels; in passing to tho west-
ward, however, against the flood, a vessel should keep rather on the south-
ern side, as the tides set over towards this rock.

Miners Bay, on the South side of Active Pass, whoro it takes the sharp
turn to the northward, affords anchorage, if necessary ; but a vessel must
go close in to got 12 fathoms, and then she is barely out of the whirl of

the tide. .

In entering or passing out of tho northern entrance, the point of Gossip
Island, on the West, and also Georgia Point, on the East, should bo given
I good berth ; indeed, the best directions which can be given aro to pass
through in mid-channel. From thence tho sand heads of Fraser River bear
N. by W. I W. distant 11 miles. The sand head buoys aro visible at 2 or

;} miles.

Tides.— The flood-tido in Active Pass sets from West to East, or from tho
Swanson Channel into the Strait of Georgia; and the ebb, in the contrary

direction.

The velocity during springs is sometimes 7 knots ; at ordinary tides, from
3 to 5. In the northern entrance there is sometimes a heavy tide ripple,
caused by a patch of 7 and 9 fathoms, and by the meeting of tho tide
through the pass with that in tho strait.

• H M.S. Termagant passing through Active Puss in July, 1860, ran on to Laura Pomt,
on the South side, from refusing to answer her hehn in makinr^ the turn to tho northward,
the tide at the time favourable, and running about 4 knots. il.M.S. Plump,r and Alert
were ahead and astern of her at the time. The Terrr^agant' » draught was 18 feet, and she
aat 6 feet by the stem: an under current striking her heel was prol«bly the cause.
H.M. steam ships of equal ««• and greater length h«Mi passed through previously on several
occasions.

North Pacific. ^

tW ^ "~' " i "^ " " ' " **'"

IIARO HTBATT.
TEINCOMALIE CHANNEL «ono.. at^A^t^ ^^^^^^^ .^

outorR tho Doda NttrrowH. ,,,„,ribod thm oun must ho daflsed

paB8 tho Dotld Narrowfl. ^^,,^, ;,iand9 of

Tho oastorn sid. of tho channel .h fonnod by tl^o g ^^^^ ,^,^^^^.^

Onhano and Vahh>H, <nul the wostox. ^^^ ^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ \,^^ ,,,,„ „,„ also
Llands. Bomo nmallor Wands aro «c o o^ v n ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^,^^^

«evoral rocks whi-h rocpuro *" /'^ ^""^.I n is . dosiraUo and safo
tho nHHiHlau....of Ih. .hart, and h.so ^^^;^; ' ^^^ , ,i.,.th of

„,„„„ol for tho .aasK of v-'-lH^'^f-' -^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1 it ,^roly oxc.ods .0

-- i^ ""* --- - ;^ 3::;=; - ^.und at a convoniont

fathoms, and from U to IH mTii .,, ......^ on tho w.-torn sido of

distanco from tho shorn. *'<'"^"^'"" f ^^'^^^^^.y «„ the East sido of
(hdiano Island, is a K-od stori>.ng l-laco, also 01am y

ThotiB iBhmd. 0^^^ ^a, viz., tho rortior

Thoro are two passes ^'^^'^''^f'^'^'^Lovon. unless to those perfectly

and Oahriola ; both. arc intrna o and dangu-cH.^ ^ ^,^^,^ ,,t,

:i:i™tc^:e:Wdbo5^stined in using them, unless, eases of

^"SSue Sarbou. is --^ ^^^ ^^l^il^^r.^^:^^^

..a rav.er Island. -';;- --7;,^'^: tV wi:: entr^^^^

,™ai island of Jnha. . 1 J md ^^ -N W. ^^^ _^ ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^

Pass. The entrance is but little «^e^ j^^s it widens

.ater. and is free from dangc.. ^^^^^^^^^^^ j', 8 to 10 fathoms

out to a anartor of a mile, and anchor^o may b ^^ ^^^

in tho arm which hnuls to the »-^° " " J^^'omalie Channel,
north-westward from this harbour -to^^^^ " ^^.^^ ,,,,,,, ,i,., Spkin.,

Several smaller -;-^%f ^^ ^^;^; ^^ two rather remarkable rocky
Charles, Wur, and Twin Mmds, tho latter tw

iBlots about 30 feel high. Trincomalio Channel, one-third

Atkins Eeef lies ou the -^^^^';lXl, ,, the track of vessels
or a mile from the shore o A -1^^^^^^^^ -^^^^^ _^^ ^^ , ,^^, ,,,, ,s
working up or down. It is a ( a ). however, is rarely soon when

neighbourhood being marked by ^^^^^J^l^^^ ,',,,, ,,,nt the N.W.
^,,.,., .,,.,y ripple ou he wat... Ihyeef ^ _^^^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^.^ ^^^^^^^^

ond of I'revost Island \N. I'.V ^ . • *
S. i E. U mile.

1,^,, :- ... Ill II iiiiijiiiriiii-r-nnrrt — ~~«««^'»'~'~-—^-^^-' '""^

WALKEU IIOOK-IIOUSTON I'ASSACK.

307

ri tlio Botithoni
nilort, wlit'ii it

nst 1)0 dasstMl
{ 1)0 iiHod with
r Tsltind IxJow
that contracted

[TOW islands of
Lir, anil Tlictis
thor« nro also
vcrthc^lfss, with
liriiblo and safo
onoval di'iith of
irtily ox<'(!i'ds 30
I at a c'onvoniont
western sido of
1 the East side of

viz., tho Tortior
() those porfootly
yiug in their sot,
purpoHOS of navi-
unloss in cases of

[,f Oaliano Island,
:)ro Toint and tlu)
entrance of Active
ith, bnt has doop
e points it widens
a in 8 to 10 fathoms
'ow passage to the
Channel.

8land, viz., Sphinx,
i: remarkable rocky

Channel, one-tbird
tho track of vessels
rs at 4 foot flood, its
■ is rarely seen when
I'eile Point tho N.W.
m the Twin Islands

Walker Hook is formed by a peninsula ..r Iomk"" "f l""'l l"".i'"<i"H
fron. Admiral Islan.l, i miles westward of the ('ai-taiu iWuK". *)u its
Houth-oast Hide is fair anehora^'- i-r simmU veHH..!.. in <1 fath..n... bat a shonl
pateh marke.l by kelp lies 2 eabh^s easlvvai-d <.f the south-eust point ol the

peninsula.

Governor Rock is a dan^.-rous ro.ky patch lyinp almost in tlio centre of
Trincomalie Channel, it has -1 feet on it at low water, is about half a .able
in extent, and tlu.nKl' »<"ll' P'"^v^ "" it- yet it is very dillieult to make out
until .luite dose to. Kru.u Twin Islan.l it bears W. i S. 1| mile ; from tho
S.K. point of Walker lloek N.W. by N. \\ mile; and fn.m (i.uulm II.U
S S W. Tills hill caimul be mislakon ; it rises from tho .vnti- of (ial.aiio

island to the hi^ii^ht ..f 74r, f..et, and a remarkable white basaltic dilf will
bo seen on the coast immediately wnithward of it.

Walker Rock lies North two-thirds of n mile from Clovornor Kock, ami
is scarcely less .lanRorous, except that it uncovers at half ebb. From Twin

Island it bears W. by N. 4 N. 1| mile, fro.n (Juadra Hill W.W, by S., an.l

is distant two-thirds of a mile fn.m the shoro <.f Ualiano Ishin-l.

These two rocks are the prin.ipal .lant^ers to be avoided in tho Tr.n.omalio

Channel ; they are both stoep-to, ami may bo passed if necessary at half a

cable's len}j;th.

Direction8.-ln passing up or d..wn Tri.icomalie Channel, vessels may
„i,her take the passa^.^ suuthwanl of (iovernor ito.^k, or that between it and
Walker li... k, or northward of tho latter. If taking the sonthern passage
after having cleared Atkins lieof. Walker Hook, and the shore ..f Adm.ra
Island, which is bold, slmuld bo kept aboard within half a mile, until
(iuadra Hill bears N.E., when tiiey will be to tlie westward oi both i^cks,
und may steer over towards the H.E. end of Narrow Island, giving it a berth
of at least a quarter of a mile, as a reef extends olf it.

If passing ,.orthward of Walker Rock when bonnd westward np tho
..hannel, keep Tark.. and Wise Islan.ls aboard within half a mile ; there
are no dangers off them. When abreast Twin Island, which may bo passed
within two cables, haul in to tho northward nntil Mount Sutil, on the
southern end of Galiaiio Island is well open northward of 1 win, or nntil
the mountain is on with (Jharles Island. Enn up with tlieso marks on
astern (which will lead well inside Walker Eock) until Uuadia Hill bears

^Comiiigdown Trincomalie Channel, and dosiring to pass northward of
Walker Eoek, keep over on tho Oaliano Island shore until the N.E. point
of Thetis Island is shut in by the Sonth point ..f Hall Island. As long as
these points are not opened a vessel will bo northward of the rock, and when
anadra Hill bears North, she wiU be well eastwar.1 of both ,t and the Go-

vernor Eock. ,

HOUSTON PASSAGE loads from tho Trincomalie into Stuart Channei.

X 2

308

HARO STRAIT.

Vfssols intending to take it had better pass up southward, or inside the
Governor Rock. The entrance is between the N.E. point of Admiral Ibland
and Narrow and Secretary Islands ; there are no dangers.

Southey Point is the sharp northern extreme of Admiral Island, and may
be approached to a cable's length to tlie northward. At half a mile 8.S.W.
of it is the Grappler Reef described in page 301 ; round it Houston Passage
turns abruptly to the southward, and Stuart Channel may be entered either
by the main passage between North Reef and Admiral Island, or if neces-
sary, between North Reef and Tent Island. Give North Reef a moderate
berth, as a shoal ridge of rocks extends one-third of a mile oflf its N.W. and
S.W. ends (page 300).

FOBTIER PASS separates Qaliano from Valdes Island, and is the first
outlet into the Strait of Georgia, northward of Active Pa«s, from which it
is distant 14 miles. The pass, though short (not exceeding a mile from its
southern entrance imtil fairly in the strait) is narrow, and is rendered still
more so by sunken rocks on its western side. The tides are very strong,
running from 4 to 7 knots, and overfalls and whirling eddies are always to
be met in the northern entrance. No vessel but a steamer commanding a
speed of 8 knots is recommended to take it unless in a case of emergency.
The first danger in the southern ontran(;e is Black RocTc, just awash at high
water. It is on the western side of the pass E.S.E. IJ cable from Native
Point, the N.W. entrance point, and is easily avoided.

The second and principal danger io the Virago Rock, almost in the centre
of the channel, but rather on the western side. It only uncovers at low
tides, and bears from Native Point E. by N. ^ N. 2 cables, and from Eaco
Point, the centre projecting point on the East side of the pass S.W. by W.
a little over 2 cables, which is the least breadth of the passage. The third
danger is a 2-fathom rocky patch, extending from one of the outer East
points of the pass, bearing from Race Point N.N.E. J E., a third of a mile,
and from Tongue Point, the outer East point, W. by N. J N. 3 cables'
lengths ; this patch is covered with kelp, which is generally visible.

Directions. — At any stage of the flood stream a steam-vessel acquainted
with the channel might pass out into the Strait of Georgia with facility.
The eastern shore should be always kept aboard within a cable's lengtli
until beyond Race Point, which should be passed close, after which a vessel
with the flood stream shovdd make for Canoe Islet, a bare yellow rock about
20 feet high N.N.W. two-thirds of a mile distant, in order to clear the two-
fathom patch. Canoe Islet is clear of danger on its western side, but its
eastern should not bo approached within 3 cablf*' lengths.

In passing o\it of the channel with the ebb-*^ ■ , the groat danger to bo
avoided is the vif)lonce of the stream setting against and round Race Point,
whicli, if a vessel have not .sufiicient power to stei "'11 either take her on
the port bow and set her on the point, or. which i . .1 more probable, on the

CLAM BAY-DODD NARIJOWS.

;ur#

ird, or inside the
of Admiral Island

I Island, and may
lalf a mile S.S.W.
t Houston Passage
T be entered either
Island, or if neces-
1 Eeef a moderate
ie off its N.W. and

id, and is the first
ass, from which it
ing a mile from its
ad is rendered still
es are very strong,
ddies are always to
mer commanding a
case of emergency,
just awash at high
\ cable from Native

almost in the centre
uly uncovers at low
)les, and from Eaco

10 pass S.W. by W.
passage. The third
9 of the outer East
i., a third of a mile,
y N. J N. 3 cables'
ally visible,
im-vessel acquainted
■eorgia with facility.
;hin a cable's length
, after which a vessel
re yellow rock about
ier to clear the two-
western side, but its
hs.

1 groat danger to be
d round Eace Point,

11 cither take her on
more probable, on the

starboard, and sot her on Virago Eock, as was the case on one oocusion with
II.M. steam-vosBol of that name.

Entering Trincomalie Channel from the Strait of Georgia by thi« pa«s, a
vessel should keep a third of a mile eastward of Cano. Islet and then st..r
for Eace Point, due allowance being made with the flood h-r the i-fulUom
patch; if with the obb, Eace Point should be kept do.e aboard to avoid
Ling set on Virago Eock, and having passed the point, B,xg the «astem
shore, which is clear of danger. The rule on all occasions should be o
avoid the western shore ; the great strength of the tide ceases unmcdiatdy
on clearing tlie entrance points either way. From the Strait o, Cpn-gn. tb.
pass is always easily recognized at the distance of several mdes, by the gap
formed by its sloping wooded entrance points terminating .n two .ow ex-
tremes from most points of view overlapping each other, btcer ior the

entrance on a bearing about S. by W. . , ^i j

Tides -The flood tide runs from TrincomaUe Channel to the northward
into the Strait of Georgia, and the ebb in the contr.vy dire.t.on^ ih. ebb
stream commences from one hour to one hour and . VaU before it is lugh
water by the shore, and runs for one hour after low water, or froia 7 to 8
hours. The high water at the full and change of the moon occurs about 6
11 m., but is not very regular.

CLAM BAY is on the eastern sides of Thetis and Kuper Islands, oppositu
to Portier Pass. The continuation of the bay separates thc.o two iskuds at,
high water, when there is a boat channel into Telegraph Harbour (p. ^>0 ,
on'their w^stem side. A remarkable white spit point of broken c am sheU.
seen from a long distance, forms the soutliern entrance point of the bay
^mediately southward of it is a considerable native lodge Le. ^ M.ul, off
rnorthern point, is a smaU wooded islet. Centre Reef, with 7 feet on it,
and marked by kelp, Ues ahnost in the centre of the entrance

The best passage into Clam Bay from the eastward - -f ^--^ °^ ^iii-
row Secreta^, and Indian islands, between them and Hall sland. M ter
Z ing Indian Island steer in for White Spit, giving it a berth of a cable
Ld anchor in 6 fathoms in the centre of the bay, the spit bearing East, and

"^rr^llra,. on the western side of Valdes Island, . miles
Jve Portier Pass, immediately off a yeUow cliff. Eight fathoms, sandy
bottom, will be G.und with the cliff bearing N.W. by N. distant a quart..

"'do1)D NAEEOWS mP b. said to commence above Bound Island (page
300) although the narrowest pa.. . a mile distant from it. o small
V is or stLmers of sufficient power that obey their helm quickly, li s
Trow pass offers no dangers. The strength of the tide at its greatest
uITs !bove 8 knots, the least depth of water 7 fathoms, and he nar-
roXart of the channel is 80 yards wide ; but this is for a sliort distance,

-»i«»«n**«s*5w>s

;no

IIARO BTEAIT.

and tho pass being nearly straight, a veaBol is carried through in a lew
moments.

If bound through Dodd Narrows, and having to wait for tido, there m fair
anchorago with but little tide, westward of Round Island in 6 fathoms, mid-
way between it and tho shore.

In proceeding for Dodd Narrows from abreast Portier Pass, tho mid-
channel course is W.N.W. for about 3 miles, or until Ragged Island and
Reef Flint of Thetis Island are in one bearing 8.\V. by H.

The most direct course is northward of Danger Reef, between it and
Tree Island ; the latter is a small round wooded islet lying olf tho South
end »f 1>« '^^iurcy Islands. This passage is two-thirds of a mile wide, with
a depth of 2i to •'!() fathoms.

I»f«nger Reef (page .iOT) should not be approached within a (^iblo where
there swe '.) fathoms ; if tu^! ronf should not bo seen, it is recommended to
pass Tii»e Island at the d wtanc f- of a quarter of a mile. There is deep water
between * -.tnd De Court ^- Islands.

Tho passage betwe*>n vVhite Rock and Danger Reef is likewise a very
good one ; it is three-tjuarters of a mile wide, with a depth of 20 to 30
fathoms.

In passing up, keep on the starboard or eastern aide of Round Island at
a convenient distance ; tho only directions n«ces8ary after this are to keep
m mid-channol, and to attend the steerage '(uickly and carefully. Imme-
diately through the Narrows the tido ceases, and a Tessel will bo in North-
umberland Channel, a iine wide passage leading to hud only 5 miles from,
tlio ancliorago at Nanaimo.

In taking tlio Narrows from the northward, {■': careful not to mistake
tho False Narrow.*, which are on tho port or northern side of Northumber-
land Channel, and are much wider than the real pass, but nearly dry at low
water. The Dodd Narrows are not so easy to pass from the North as from
the South, as in the former case tho slight bend that has to be made must
bo made immediately on entering tlie narrow part. The tides should bo
studied in passing either way. It is r ot recommended to attempt it with the
full rush of ihe stream ; an hour before or after low water there is no diffi-
culty to a steam-vessel.

It is high water in tho Narrows on full end change days at 3'' 30"' p.m.,
and l</w water at 9*' 30"' a.m., and on those days the flood stream commences
at low water, and runs about seven hours. Tho tirst of the flood is the best
time to pass tho Narrows. Vessels leaving Nanaimo and intending to pass
Howii, should be at the Narrows en hour before high or low water, as tho
tides rtve nearly an hour earlier at the Narrows.

JPYLABES CHANNEL.— The De Courcy Islands are a group extending
4J miles in an E.S.E. directi<.n from Mudge Island, which separates th«
False from Dudd Narrows, and on tlieir northern side, between them and

i «i ' -t-i..t-i.,' i i e.«w, »j-i

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

311

gh ia a few

3, there is fair
"athoms, niul-

ass, tho mid-
ad Island and

etwoen it and

oil tho South

die wide, with

a cablo where
jcoiunionded to
•e is deep water

likewiHO a voiy
nth of 20 to 30

louml Island at
this are to keop
rofuUy. Imnie-
ivill be in North-
ly 5 miles from,

1 not to mistake
of Northuiaber-
■\oarly dry at low
18 North as from
to ho made must
e tides should ho
ittempt it with the
r tliere is no diffi-

ays at 3" 30'" p.m.,
stream commeuccs
10 flood is tho bent
intending to pass
r low water, as tho

a group extending-

phlch separates the

between them and

Valdes Island, is I'ylados Channel, which loads by tho Gabri<^la Pass into
tho Strait of Georgia, as well as to iho entrance of the False Narrows. Tho
avera-o breadth of the channel is a mile, with a depth of 35 fathotus, and
at its "head, near the entrance to the False Narrows, is good anchorage m 9
fathoms, convenient for vessels intending to take the Gabr.ola l^ass and

waiting for tide. .

False Narrows are full of kelp, and shoal at low wator, affording only a
boat passage into Northumberland Channel. Tho pas,«ngo8 between tho De
Courcy Islands are deep and navigable ; that between the North and Muhlle
Island is half a milo wide, and froo from danger. Tho narrow pass br.tween
tho Middle and South Island is scarcely a cablo wide, but has a depth of r,

fathoms. T , 1 1 «.!

GABEIOLA PASS, between the South end of Gabriola Island and ttio
North end of Valdos Island, is not recommended, unless for (tasting vessels
knowing the locality, or steamers, if necessary, for it is a narrow and intri-
cate channel, something of the same character as Dodd Narrows, e.xcept that
it is a much longer reach. Its direction is E.N.E. for little over a uulo, its
narrowest part is not over 250 yards in breadth, and the shoalest wator is o
fathoms; hidf a milo E.N.E. from this narrow, the course changes to S.E.
by E leaving a narrow ridge of low wooded islands on tho starboard hand,
off which a chain of covering rocks marked by kelp extend for nearly two
cables ■ two-thirds of a mile on this course leads into the Strait of Georgia,
when the Gabriola Keofs must be avoided. These latter are an e.xtonsivo
■n-oup of rocks, uucovoring at low water, at IJ mile eastward of tho Flat-top
1 lands. Much broken ground exists in their neighbourhood, and it 18
desirable to give them a good berth.

Tho north-eastern side of Vancouver Island will be described hereafter.

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

This extensive island has a similar relation to the racific Ocean to what
the south-western part, of England has to the Atlantic, and in many respects
their climates resemble each other. But the physical charactcvi.ti.s ot tho
t-*o are widely ditferent. The rugged coasts of Vancouver Island n.o
steeply from the water, backed by rounded hills, covered with the n^onoto-
nous pine gi'oves, beyond which, aiwl traversing the island, a loftier range
of bare rugged mountains ulminate in a series of irregular peaks.

It is about 2.i2 miles h>ug, varying from 50 to 6.3 miles in breadth, and
has an area of about one-fourth of that of England and Wales. On its b. W
ftce It is very de-.-plv indented by those singular inlets so characteristic ot
the adjacent mainland. There is Tery much land ciuite unfit for cultivation

3,2 VANCOUVER ISLAND.

or colonization, but in some of tl.e valleys and along a portion of tl^e river
banks are tracts of surpassing fertility. From its geographxcd position
exposed" the full scope of tho westerly winds which prevail over th
Sc the mountains. Lercepting the rain ^^^'^Z:^
and never-failing supply of water, which may be certamly found at every
TaC beacl^ The'forests afford some of the finest timber in the woi^d.
Itethorasthe largest and straightest spars for ships or for buiHmg pur-
Tores and a large and increasing trade is rising around the saw-mdls, which
! established in various parts. At the same time the rocky and >arren
reirivered in many 'places with a stunted .-th of use,.3 wo^^^^
Of other supplies, the natives in the districts away from the Euroimn
ettLentJw'iU bring deer, grouse, salmon, h^^^"*; ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^
fish in moderate quantities and for reasonable prices, m exchange for blau
^^: omln sheets, knives, tobacco, &c. Copper and iron have been found
':?;" wked, especially in Barclay Sound. Traces of gold have also been

"'rolns one of the most important of the possessions of Vancouver Island,
an ears to exist in vast entities. It wa. first ^^^^-^-\^ ^^^^l

ft.om Indian repoii, by Mr. Joseph McKay, m May 1850. ^^ ^ept^mb r
following the same seam, called Douglas seam, was discovered on Newca^e
llnd, fn Nauaiiuo Harbour. Its general thickness is from 6 to 7 fee w>^^
Tm 8 to 10 inches of fine clay running through the centre. her and
wor seams than this were soon afterwards discovered, and still urther
IZUL has demonstrated that there i« an unbounded supply, which is

"^ZrW t£::f tan, F.K.a.8., its first colonist, in 1843 made
Jlwrexam'ination of the capabilitieB of the island in its original
7n^:L state, a.d in few words his views are thus : '^^^^y^'^
of the i«land-.as far as it has been at present oxplored-may be said to be
a mal of rock and mountain, and of the little available land which is found
Tpat ll along the sea-coast, by far the greater part is densely covered with
X, the removal of which would be so laborious as to make the bringing
of the said land under cultivation scarcely a profatable undertaking. The
little open land which there is. however, is in general rich, and had the
British Government thrown the island open to the exertions of individual
en Xtist the greater portion of such open land would doubtless, ere l^i.s,
ha^ bee; settld. It is not, however, always that the wooded land is
capable of cultivation along the «ea-coast ; on the contrary, the reverse is
the rule ; the greater portion ot the land on the southern, and nearly all on
te western Zt, as L as it has yet been examined, consisting of baii;en
rock, barely affording suftiucnt hoi Ung ground to the stunted timber ^slth

v liich it is covered. ,.,.

His opinion of the climate, too. i. not very cheoriul. He says, ihe

i-' i ' .-^x" '^""■v - wMaw-iHiiM ^a

K #-':,<t;!W ' J - ! i. .^^'W;'j « >w.>in '*.*'"'"''*-'^'-'''^

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

313

)n of the river
bical position,
Bvail over tlie
I an abundant
■ound at every
: in the world,

building pur-
iw-raills, which
ky and barren
; useless wood.

the European
■cod, and other
lange for blan-
lave been found
I have also been

ncouvor Island,
rod at Nanaimo,
In September
ed on Newcastle
6 to 7 feet, with
tre. Other and
and still further
3Ui)ply, which is

;t, in 1843 made
1 in its original
rhe whole centre
ay be said to be
;d which is found
isely covered with
,aka the bringing
iidertaking. The
ich, and had the
ions of individual
(ubtless, ere this,
8 wooded land is
ry, the reverse is
and nearly all on
nsisting of barren
inted timber with

. He says: The

climate, as usual ou the coast of the Pacific, is divided int« two seasons of
dry and rainy, or. as P«re Accolti, the Jesuit priest of Oregon, expressed it,
- Huit mois d'hiver, et quatre d'enfer ;" ho added two months, however, to
the winter for the benefit of Oregon. On Vancouver Island it generally
rains and snows from October to March, and during the rest of the year a
parching heat prevails, which dries up all the small streams. In the com-
mencement of autumn dense fogs prevail, inveloping everything in obBcunty.
and preventing, as I think, the rays of the sun from having a due viviiymg

effect on the crops. , a i;.

The prevailing winds along the coast in winter are from the S.E., varying
from that to the S.W., and with occasional hoavy northerly gales ; the pre-
VHihng winds in the summer are from the North and N.W. GeneraUy
speaking, the climate is both agreeable and healthy ; and not a single death
that I am aware of has occurred among adults from disease during the six
Years that I have been acquainted with the island.*

Dr Eattraygiv.r. the following charaC -istics of the different seasons m
the South part of the island. The spring xs short, and lasts from the begin-
ning of March to the ena of April or beginning of May. In early March
the weather undergoes a marked change, and a drier and milder chmato
forms a decided contrast to the cold and wet winter months which precede
it. Towards the end of April fine weather has fairly set in, with mild dry

S.W. winds. , -n • r n i

The summer begins with May and ends with September. Rain falls sel-
dom and never heavily; fogs and mists are rare; sometimes the heat is
excessive. The autumn, which lasts during October and November, pre-
sents a marked change. Cold and moist northerly winds succeed the dry
southerly breezes of summer. Fogs begin in October, and occasionally
during the latter part of September ; but periods of fine mild weather, some-
times lasting ten days or a fortnight, form what is caUed the Indian

summer." „ ^ i ^ iu i

During the winter, which lasts from the beginning of December to the end

of February, cold moist northerly and southerly winds prevail, with frequent

rain and fogs. Snow is uncommon and never heavy ; ice is seldom more

than an inch thick. , -d-w

The following remarks are from the Vancouver Island Pilot :—
Current8.-A southerly current has been found to prevail on the western
coast of Vancouver Island more or less throughout the year part^ciUaWy
from August to November, probably in some measure caused by the N.W.
^vinds which blow constantly during the summer. This current jommg the
ebb tide out of Fuca Strait has been known to set vessels between 4 and

. Sec Journal Koyal tioographical Society, vol. xxviL pp. 2b8-320.

jOT(«:T«-«'i!|f«W!M»3UW53'^

VANCOUVEK ISLAND.

especiaUy near the full and change ot the moon.

«t'0°g°«*- ,!,„ „.«vaiUne Tvinds from N.W. cr S.W., tafeo

a.ri„g the Chang, o. 4. "'J^iXr.^^*'' direction, fccm a .light
ftom 8.S.W., or »»"»':"«7/'it Ich male., that part of the coast

lee Aor. to a .hip «tho..t .toam pojor^ ^^ ^^^ j,_^ f„,„„

The coast .ind. in '--X.' J- frc.h and with great rcguia^ity

daring the early month., and the W"-' ^^^ .^^ ,„,y part of Octo-

rZS.»r;:"«-::n,:dri,.ner.,l,agrea.dealoteainr,

it Ml to 29.90 a «,«th.ca.terly «'" • ' * '^^^ith a westerly wind a. .eon
peoted, hut ot short dnrafon, and olea..n„ up w

as the baromotor rises. „„„ ,„^„ently the tormor. Th.y

Thewinti.r wmd. are S.E.or&.w ,1.0 middle of Apnl.

set in towards the end of Octobo.. and »" ™;J^ ^, ^^^ ^„„ay wea-

S.E. gale, are ge..rally F'f' «"l.° ^"e S.E. peering U, the southward,
.her ;. hey spring up gradn.% rem ^»«o'E^^ ^^^^,„, f^,U„g „pMly.

.ocompaniod by ram and 'l"* "''*"^^ „i„d .Mfts .uddenly to S.W.,
.hen the barometer become, statu naj ^1« ™ ,„ ^, ,^„. t,,„

r' r b'^^V t; rmeir the wLdLr. tJ S.W., .om which

,2" it generally blow, from J^ ^/»^°"-^. .^ ,,„.y. p„p„rtien,d to

The violence and '•"»';-;;^*';:l J,t 29.50 a strong gale may bo

.he fall of the n,o,cu,y ; w A "» "»■ ^^,„ 2,,,o, ,hen very bad

ioohed for from ''^''.'l^'"'- " "„ Jr^hree occasion, in as man, years .t
::rrrfr;s.9rd°hasbeenfoUowedbyB.E.gale.ofgreat

t::::X:^Z :' r.^, with . .gh b. taHing barometer . snch

\ .

VANCOUVER 1 SLANT).

;3i;

Toat risk of

jrs; extreme

such timc3,

. are at their

sr 8.W., take
iho S.E. galos

it frequently,
he same time
from a slight
rt of the coast
ut a dangeroua

W., the former
rreat regularity
y part of Octo-
at deal of calm,

lummor; should
lor, may he ex-
•ly wiud as Boon

3 former. They
middle of April.
Ira, cloudy wea-
to the southward,
falling rapidly;
iddenly to S.W.,
lis of rain. Tho
.W., from which

3 proportioned to
ong gale may bo
3, when very bad
I as many years it
S.E. gales of great

■with the barometer
^aysbeen preceded

uth

g barometer ; s

iMBT, and rain ; tbey

seldom continue from that quarter for more than 12 or 18 hours, uulos8 tho
barometur falls very low, and almost always t*hift to S.W.

When the S.W. gnlo of winter is not preceded by tho south-eastern, tho
barometer seldom falls ; it either remains stationary, whon the galo may bo
expected to continue longer, or rises slowly, when it will gradually subside
and fine weather follow. S.W. gales are accompanied by heavy banks of
clouds, and passing showers of rain, sometimes snow.

The barometer has been known to fall during winter as low as 29.4r) and
has been followed by no galo or bad weather, but on such occasions there
has been a heavy fall of snow on tho hills, and a sudden fall of 15 degrees
in tho temperature.

A fine northerly or N.E. wind frequently occurs at intervals during tho
month- of December, January, and February ; it is always accompanied by
a higli barometer, above ;U).0, and at such times a continuance for several
days together of clear, cold, frosty weather may be looked for. The baro-
meter on those occasions will sometimes rise as high as 30.70, and the fmo
weather will then probably last a fortnight or more.

Fogs. Although fogs in this region are not nearly of such frequent oc-
currence as on the neighbouring coast of California, where they prevail
almost iminterruptedly during summer and as late as the middle of October,
yet from August to November they cjcasionally occur in Juan do Fuca
Strait, and are sometimes very dense over tho entrance for several days
together. They are generally accompanied by calms or very light winds
from N.W., which renders them more dangerous to sailing vessels closing

the land.

The natives have been frequently described since the visit of Capt. Cook
to Nootka Sound first made us intimate with them ; but they are disappear-
ing fast. The West coast of the island is very thinly populated, the highest
estimate of the natives not exceeding 4,000, divided into a number of very
small tribes. As a rule they are harmless and inofl'onsive, thou,j;h in a very
few cases the crews of vessels wrecked on their coasts have been plundered
and ill-treated. They are addicted to pilfering, especially in the vicinity of
Nootka Sound, and ought to bo carefully watched; this is perhaps the
worst charge that can bo brought against them.

All the tribes speak a different dialect, and the Chinook jargon, which is
used at Victoria in transactions with the settlers and natives, will not be
generally understood on tho West coast.

The island now forms an integral part of tho colony of British Columbia,
as explained on pa;;© 272, the seat of government for the island and con-
tinent being at Victoria.

Its S.W. coast was but very little known till the publication of the fine
series of charts, the result of the elaborate survey by Capt. G. H. Eichards,
E.N., in H.M.S. Plumper. To these charts and the directions which eluci-

,„)aiaaBKSKWB«s^sai!»asis33!aB««

k'jimsm»u ^^! ^''^ i'^' » ' " "-'''"'' '- '

3,g VANCOUVER ISLAND.

date them wo owe the following description, which is ..mowhatabrid^^^^^

«s for the present at least, many of the places it describes are but of htUe

^r ^;r ::;::T!:iude a descnpt^n of t. sou^.^^^ ana
«outh western coasts of the island, leaving that portion on the Gulf

''^ BE "^Vcts^nZ'l^^^^^^ described, pages .1-25.
„?^ttf harbours and coast on the South side, the northern Umit of the

WasUng^fTe^^^^^^^ is there given. We now commence with the northern

TdeT^ strait, continuing the description from the N.W. point of the

nntrance to its iunction '.\ in< the Haro Strait.

POM SAN JUAN is the first anchorage on the North shore within the
enlanJe of Fuca Strait. The opening, which is remarkable from seaward
"irfor a considerable distance, and makes as a deep gap be ween two
lin ranges The centre of the entrance bears N.N.E. i E. from Cape
;:C L Jhous^^^^^^ as the light is visible from the anchorage it is
irSult to enter or leave during night time. . Off the wes ern poin at
:„leth!ng more than a cable's length, is a low flat rock, named O.en Island,

^'^LI^c'riltckB, at the eastern point, are high pinnacles, with two or
thrrtrefsTrowing on them, and some smaller rocks off the ou^rmost o
Ih 1 1 li cable from the shore. At 4 cables within these rocks and U
labt from the shore is another reef partly out of water named JIa.n.rul
tl On the North side of the port some rocks and broken ground extend
fofamile within Owen Point, and nearly 2 cables from the shor. On

i Ih lies N E i E. from Owen Island, distant 4 cables, and is 2,
rock, awash, hes JN.ii>. t ^- "" • . iv "P i N and W i S. of

terll«.T« a rou^d beach compo».d of »«ddy ..ad. «-*» Bmr em,,t, .
SrC ;!*» N»U. »nd of m. Wch, and C.,. InUi peao.ra.e. ...

""^nort i. 6Btir.lv open to S.W. winds, daring which a heavy eea roll.
i„Tb „l; T:11 8a.e. I-e^ i= a convenient depth of wa^r ...
over Port San Ja.., iiom 6 to 9 fathom., the bottom Bne ™ddy ..nd. la
I on«r p.r. of the port there U genor...y a .well. Good anchorage w.il
he find lot . J mile from the head, with Owen Wand bo,u:,ng S.W., and

nte^rnl!.' Paa^r^.l' -. not -.ow a. a peak within the

•"ihe Co.rt.-From Port S«. Juan the rfiore of Vancouver Mand trends
E»t to sTerringh^n Point, distant 24 miles, and pre»nt. no ver, re-
mllble '.U. P«»*... f«, Ht for boats, lie. 3 miles eastward of

SOOKE INLET-BECHER KAY.

317

at abridged,
but of little

i-eastorn and
the Gulf of

;o8 251—256,
a limit of the
1 the northern
. point of the

re within the
from seaward,
I between two
E. from Cape
nchorage it is
stern point, at
id Owen Island,

IS, with two or
e outermost of
) rocks and VJ
imed Jlammond
ground extend
he shore. One
bles, and is 2J
and W. i S. of
ight for 3i miles
the head, which
on River empties
et penetrates its

1 heavy sea rolls
pth of water all
auddy sand. In
1 anchorage will
jaring S.W., and

peak within the

ver Island trends
ents no very re-
niles eastward of

San Juan ; at the distance of 7 miles further East, in a small bight, is a
stream named Sombrio River. The River Jordan, a considerable stream, is
5 J miles westward of Sherringham Point. Eastward of Sherringliam Point
the shore curves a littlo to the northward, and at the distance of 4J miles is
Otter Point. The points on this side the strait are not remarkable nor
easily distinguished unless close inshore ; some of their extremes are par-
tially bare of trees. Vessels running or working up the strait at night
should be careful not to get so near tho' North shore as to shut in Kate
Island light by Beecbey Head. From Otter Point the entrance to Sooko
Inlet is E. by N. i N. 32 miles, the intervening coast forming rather a deep
indentation named Sooke Bay, in which vessels may anchor in tine weather
something more than half a mile from the shore in 8 fathoms.

SOOKE INLET is a remarkable sheet of water ; its entrance is little over
half a mile in breadth, and leads by a narrow and tortuous channel 3 miles
in length, and in a general North direction to a beautiful land-locked basin,
nearly 2 miles in extent, in an East and West direction, and 1 mile North
and South, with a depth of from 8 to 16 fathoms all over it. It is not likely,
however, to become a harbour of much importance.

Vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms half a mile off the entrance, and, if
necessary for shelter, may with a fair wind run inside Whiffin Island, where
there is sufficient space to anchor.

Whiffin Island is low, gravelly, and always connected with the western
entrance. Its eastern point bears N.N.E. three-quarters of a mile from tho
centre, between the two entrance points ; it must be rounded close, leaving
it on the port hand, as a reef lies only half a cable eastward of it. On
rounding the point drop the anchor at a cable's length within in 8 fathoms ;
here there is a space of deep water 2 cables in extent.

Secretary Island, smaU and wooded, lies If cable off Possession Point, a
mUe south-eastward of Sooke Inlet. There is a depth of 16 fathoms be-
tween it and the main shore, and from it Beechey Head bears E. i S. 2*
mUes, with a bold steep shore between, and deep water close-to.

BECHER BAY.— Beechey Head is a bold wooded cliff, forming the West
entrance point of Becher Bay, Cape Church being the eastern one. Tho
breadth of the entrance is something over a mile, and off the eastern side
are several small wooded islands, named Bedford Islands. The depth of
water at the entrance varies from 20 to 50 fathoms, rocky and irregular
bottom. At three-quarters of a mile within in a northerly direction are
WoK and Frazer Islands, with some small islets off them ; between these
two islands, which lie East and West of each other, Frazer being on the
eastern side, is the channel 4 cables wide to the anchorage ; it then takes a
north-easterly direction for three-quarters of a mile, where anchorage m 10
fathoms may be had, with the centre of Frazer Island bearing B.8.W., dis-
tant a quarter of a mile.

?^3S®<vJ^*n^vi"35«;«w'ffi,i'*ail»**^-'"'

VANOOUVEK ISLAND.
l,.a fa. better wa.t a to " ' '' " ,^'';, ^,,,j^,„., ,,,„ ,.,,,1 »l.c...t ll.™!..'.
halt a mile dl.tant, »"*'''''„ 1„W b« cW aad V.,t .i.l.i" a

They occn-y mo" t^'- f;™ „ "1 toge^t, »r Groat lUee, i» U
,ame Eaet a„d WeBt. ^T'" °"'"'' , „, smaller, a t„» toet «b<.ve
e»W„ la extent and 25 (e.t h ^ , the «*e » ^^ ^^^^ , ,„ „ ,„.„„ a
high water or awash. Ihe tults ainoub t,,^ outer rock shouM

S^,„g Wd w.atl,.r heavy ^'^^^:Z:^:r^ .:';: ra.be„.. of .ater
be given a berth ot a „,. b, a. vb,d> dta.ee __^ ^ ^^__^ ^^._^_^^_,^^

tt^ia;r;rtri.rf;p:b,e.^^^^^^^

them, a..be.bb.e.».trengly.o««vd».^.m^ ^^^ ^^ _^ ^^^^^,^

'^' T" ':fjr:r;ron r a,!:lLai: «« l.tte, h.i„g,.ainted
drolling of .tone » ith a to^ er o .^ ^^ ^^ ^,,„.

,i,h alternate herizental W«k '.nd ,vh e ban , ,,,^ „„„„j

order, v>-l™b Bho^'B a te* e^ory ^^ ^^^ j^,,. 3^ ,5. w.
distanee ot 18 m.le.. Lat. "» " , j„ ,,.tweon the Kaco

Eac. Passage « -'-^^j;:'',; ' Tnot les. than H fathoms. Thi.

toeu6hisN.N.E. '-^JS^^^ ^^ y^„„, ., 4, distanee of a mile, the

After ronnding Race Is ana L,g ^^ lighth<ni.e ea

eourso for Es,iaimalt n™""" " ^^„j* J,i J,„n immediately on ronnd-

K.gMd Island . very -F-^erfor it ^iU clear all dangers, hat atten-

BENTINCK ISTAND-rAKL'Y BAY.

;n«j

; it afforda no
mtwnrd Ixiuml
iwanl of Kaio
al)out Bepchoy
( RaiM) TsLvndp.
, (JhuR'h iiboHt
stance until up
, lf»>pt within n
twccn Bontinck
trong tides run

ormost of vcliicli
mcouvor lalnnd.
South, and tho
•oat Raeo, w l.V
% few foet above
3 to 6 knots, and
outer rock shouM
fathoms of water
at a less distance,
3 feet on it, lyinp
it winds a anilinf;
when eastward of

lets of a keeper's
itter being painted
liibits, at an eleva-
ight of the second
:lear weather at a
15" W.

between tho Race
, 14 fathoms. This
tended for a sailing
rength of the tides,
ottom. The course

tance of a mile, the
The lighthouse on
.mediately on round-
1 dangers, but atten-
almost directly from
[slunds, and a sailing
;hem a berth of more

than a mile. Tho flood sets in tho opposite direction to tho N.E., and with
light winds vessels aro liabln to bo carried to tho eastward.

By night, when Fisgard Island light boars N. by W., a vessel may stoer
boldly for it. Tho only precaution necessary is to keep tho white light in

full view.

Entering Esquimalt Harbour, the Fisgard Island light should bo left from
1 to 2 cables on tho port hand ; when it bears N.W. by W. i W. tho light
changes from white to red, and shows tlio latter colour within tlio harbour ;
and when it boars S. by W. at a convenient distance, a vessel may anchor
in 7 fathoms, or stand into Constance Cove if preferred. The Scroggs Hocks,
on the eastern side of tho entrance of tho harbour must bo avoided ; they
bear E.S.E. from Fisgard Island distant nearly 4 cables.

The entrance of Victoria Harbour being only 2 miles eastward of Esqui-
malt, the same precautious aro necessary as regards the tides. The course
from a milo off the Race Islands is N. i E. ; during daytime Christ Oliurch,
a conspicuous white building with a spire, and standing on an eminence,
will bo seen shortly after rounding those islands, bearing N. by E. It
should bo kept just on the starboard bow. At night, or during bad weather,
it is strongly recommended not to run for this harbour ; but if it is decided
to run for Victoria, it must be borne in mind that when Fisgard Island
light changes from white to red, a vessel will be very near tho shore.

Bentinck Island, lying close olf the S.E. point of Vancouver Island, is
little over half a mile in extent, irregularly shaped, and 100 foet high, being
almost divided in tho centre by a narrow neck.

Between Bentinck Island and Esquimalt Harbour, a distance of 8 miles,
the coast is indented by several bays, and anchorage may be obtained in 8
to 10 fathoms anywhere within a mile of the shore, except immediately
off Albert Head. The only danger is a reef lying about a cable's length off

the head.

Pedder Bay, the first of these indentations, has its entrance immediately
northward of Bentinck Island, 2 miles N.N.W. of the Great Race, between
Cape Calver and William Head, where its breadth is three-quarters of a
mile. The inlet runs to the W.N.W. for 2 miles, narrowing rapidly, and
when half a mile within is only fit for small craft, which may find good
shelter at its head. Vessels of any size may anchor in the entrance in 7

fathoms.

Parry Bay, immediately northward of William Head, affords good an-
chorage with all westerly winds. Vessels bound to sea and meeting with a
strong wind from this quarter are recommended to return here ; the an-
chorage is in 9 fathoms, from half to three-quarters of a mile off the sandy
beach, with William Head bearing S.W. by S. about the same distance.

Albert Head, the North point of the bay, is moderately high, sloping to
the sea, bare of trees at its extreme, but wooded immediately beliind ; a

le s-wi^^n--

330 VANCOITVER ISTAND.

reef lies a cable off it. William Head somowhat resomblos it, but is l.mor.

The vTater in too deep for anchorage immediatoly off these heads.

EOYAl BAY or ROADS, of which Albert Head is the souther point,
and the entrance of Esquimalt Harbour, the northern limit, is a fine sheet
of water 3 milea in extent, am'. alFords good anchorage witli all winds wi.icli
would prevent a vessel from entering that harbour. A vessel may anchor
anywhere within three-quarters of a mile from the western shore. A .jood
berth is a mile South of Duntzo Head with tho entrance open, '-r Thetis
cottage just open of Inskip Rocks (in the harbour), which is the leading
mark for clearing the Scroggs Rooks running in or out.

LIGHT.-A lighthouse is erected on Fisgard Island, a small rocky islet
25 feet high, and almost connected with tho shore, forming tho western
entrance point of Esquimalt Harbour; the tower is of brick whitewashed,
and is elevated 70 feet above the mean level of the sea, with a red brick
dweUing-house adjoining. The light \f^ fixed, and of the fourth order; it
ehows white when bearing from N. i W. to N.W. by W. i W. ; red from
N.W. by W. i W. to S. i E., and green from N. i W. to N. by E. | E.
The white light is intended to guide a vessel in from seaward, and while
visible clears alike the western coast between Race Island and Esquimalt,
and the southern shore with its off-lying dangers, Scroggs Rocks and
Brotchy Ledge, between Duntze Head and Triei Island. The red light will
be found useful by vessels bound to Victoria or Esquimalt from the east-
ward, after rounding Trial Island it will indicate a vessel's distance from
the shore, and if bound to Esquimalt, a W.S.W. course will lead a safe dis-
tance outside Brotchy Ledge, until the light changes from red to white,
when it may be steered for, and not before. A green ray of light is thrown
up the harbour between the Whale Rock and tlie western shore, and leads
westward or inside the line of that rock.

ESaUIMALT HAEBOim is a safe and exceUent anchorage for ships of
any size, and with the aid of the light on Fisgard Island may be entered
at aU times with great facility. The entrance, which bears North CJ
miles from the lighthouse on Great Race Island, is between Fisgard Island
and Duntze Head, and is 3 cables in breadth, opening out immediately

within.

The only dangers are the Scroggs Rocks, which lie on the eubtsrn side.
S S E 3 cables from Duntze Head, and cover at three-quarters flood.
Inskip islands kept well open of the head leads clear to the westward of
them, but the best mark for entering with a leading wind is Thetis Cottage,
a conspicuous white building on Dyke Point, just opfn or on with the
western Inskip Rock, bearing N. by W. i W., which l-e-ds in mid-channel.

Fisgard Island should not be passed within less than a cable's length,
keeping just without the kelp, which extends about half a cable eastward of

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23 WISST MAIN ST ^EET

WEBSTER, .' 14580

(716) 872-4503

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ESaUIMALT HARBOUR.

;i2l

it, for a rock with 7 feet water over it lies tl.reo-quartors of a cable N.E. ..f

the lighthouse.

Vessels entering the harbour at night with a strong wind after them
should take care to shorten sail in time, as the space for rounding to is some-
what limited ; and it is desirable to moor if any stay is intended, as the
winds are changeable.

The best time to leave the harbour is early in the morning, when either
a calm or light land wind may be expected. There i^ little strength of tide
in the harbour, or for some distance without, and it sets fairly in and out.

The strongest and most frequent gales blow from S.W. and S.E., whiili
are leading winds in, but rarely from N.W. The S.W. is a summer wind,
generally fresh, and brings fine weather, unless it blows a gale. South-cast
winds may be looked for during the winter months, or between November
and March, and generally a strong gale once in a month with rain and thuk
weather. The N.E. wind rarely blows with much strength, and always
brings fine clear weather ; a direct South wind, to which some parts of the
harbour are open, seldom blows, and there is never sufficient swell to render
the anchorage inconvenient.

The Whale Rock, with only 7 feet on it at low water, lies W. i N. 2
cables from Inskip Islands, or nearly midway between them and the western
shore of the harbour. This rock is of small extent, and not marked by
kelp ; it has a clear passage on either side, that to the eastward being the
widest Yew and Rodd Points, just touching, point to the rock ; Yew Point,
just touching the lighthouse on Fisgard Island, S. by E. J E., leads nearly
a (table's length westward ; and when Ashe Head is well shut in by Insk.p
Islands, a vessel will be clear to the northward.

Anchorage.— The most convenient anchorage is in Constance Cove, on the
eastern side of the harbour, immediately round Duntze Head, the general
depth being 6 fathoms, and the holding ground good ; there is, however,
safe anchorage in any part of the harbour, in not less than 4i fathoms, as
far northward as Dyke Point. A cable's length above this pomt the water
shoals to 3 fathoms, and from thence to the head of the harbour is a flat
with only a few feet on it at low water.

Thetis Cove in Plumper Bay, on the eastern side, immediately North of
Constance Cove, is a snug anchorage, with the harbour entrance just shut in
by Inskip Rocks in 4i fathoms ; but vessels proceeding above these rocks
must take care to avoid the Whale rock.

Water may be obtained during the winter months without difficulty from
the many streams that empty themselves into the different bays, caused by
the gieat quantity of rain which usually falls at that season ; but ■•-! summer
watering is a tedious process, and boats must be sent either to Rowe stream,
at the head of the harbour, or to the salt lagoon just outside the entrance.
Both offer difficulties, unless at or near high water.
Korth Pacific.

rrj iin r *. j ^ &wm ^ A i' ^-T. my ^'* a»j r ' w. ?:

322 VANCOUYER ISLAND.

Wate'-, however, might be convoyod at all seasons, and at a trifling ex-
pense, from the chain of lakes just over the vrestern aide of the harbour,
near Colwood Farm.

VICTORIA HARBOUR is a little more than 2 miles eastward of Esqui-
nialt, with its entrance botween Ogden and MacLaughlin Points. Macaulay
or Sailor 1 oint, a remarkable jirojection nearly midway between the two
harbours, is a bare flat point about 30 feet high, showing as a yellow clay
clitf, worn by the action of the sea and weather into a rounded nob at the
extreme. The coast on either side of this point for a mile is fringed witli
sunken rocks, and is dangerous for boats in bad weather, many fatal acci-
dents having ociairred.

The entrance to this harbour is shoal, narrow, and intricate, and with
S.W. or S.E. gales a heavy rolling swell sets on the coast, which renders
the anchorage outside unsafe, while vessels of burthen cannot run in for
shelter unless at or near high water. Vessels drawing 14 or 15 feet water
may, under ordinary circumstances, enter at such times of tide, and ships
drawing 17 feet have entered, though only at the top of spring tides.

The channel is buoyed, but it is necessary to take a pilot, and the space
is so confined and tortuous that a long ship has consideraldo difficulty in
miiking the necessary turn. A large per-centage of vessels entering the
port, small as well as large, constantly run aground from these causes, or
from trying to enter at an improper time of tide, or neglecting to take a
pilot. Such accidents, however, are seldom attended with more than delay
and inconvenience, as the shoalest and most intricate part of the passage is
sheltered. When within, the port is perfectly land-locked, and vessels may
lie in from 14 to 18 feet at low water, but the harbour accommodation is
limited.

Anchorage. — Vessels anchoring outside the harbour to wait for the tide,
or from other causes, should not come within a line botween Ogden and
MacLaughlin Tiihit-s, the former bearing W. ,V N., the latter E. J S., mid-
way between, or a (quarter of a mile from either. This is a good stopping
place witli olT-shore winds or lino weather, but is by no means recom-
mended as a safe anchorage for sailing vessels during the winter months,
wlien had weather may bo looked for with little warning.

There are three or four pilots attached to the port, who keep a good look-
out for vessels ofif the entrance. Pilotage is compulsory to all merchant
vessels, except coasteis, but the charges are moderate.

Brotchy Ledge. — About 4 cables from Holland Point, and tight in the
fairway of vessels entering Victoria Harbour from the eastward, lies the
Urotohy Ledge, with f) feet en its shoalest part ; it is covered with kelp, and
about a cable in extent within the o-falhom line. There are 9 fathoms be-
tween the ledge and the shore,

A spar bu"y,, painted ulvJe, marks this ledge. It lies in 12 feet water.

TI7TAL ISLANDS— ENTERPEIZE CITANXKL.

.".•J.1

1(1 at a trifling ax-
le of the harbour,

eastward of Esqui-
Points. Macaulny
f between the two
ig as a yellow clay
Dunded nob at tliu
lile is fringed witli
•, many fatal acci-

intricato, and with
ast, which renders

cannot run in for
14 or 15 feet water

of tide, and ships
pring tides,
ilot, and the space
erablo difficulty in
essels entering tlio
m these causes, or
^glecting to take a
h more than delay
rt of the passage is
d, and vessels may
' accommodation is

wait for the tiue,
etween Ogden and
latter E. J S., mid-
is a good stopping
' no means recom-
the winter months,

) keep a good look-
)ry to all merchant

t, and light in the

eastward, lies the

n-ed with kelp, and

3 arc 9 fathoms be-

s in 12 feet water,

with the l.nncous on Beacon Ilill in line, bearing N.E. by E. ; Ogden Point
N. A W. distant ."j cables; and Holland Point N.E. 4 cables. Tlio buoy is
occasionally washed away during the heavy winter gales.

Fisgard Island Liglithouse, North part of Brothers Island, and Macaulay
Point in line W. J N., leads a cable North of the ledge in 9 fathoms,
between it and the shore; and the lightliouso, just open southward of
Brothers Island W. by N. J N., leads 2 cables South of the ledge in 21
fathoms.

In entering or leaving Victoria Harbour, keep either of the above marks
on, till ptist the line of the beacons on Beacon Hill in line, wlien a vessel
will be clear of the ledge. Coasters, and those acquainted with the place,
usually go North of it.

The COAST from Victoria Harbour trends in an easterly direction for 2
miles to Clover Point, and is for the most part faced by white sandy cliffs,
varying in height from 10 to 80 feet; a sandy beach extends along the
whole way, and at a cable's distance off in many places are rocks and foul
ground. Two cables East of Holland Point, and a cables oif shore, are t!io
(ilinip.w Jiei/x, which cover at three-quarters flood, and have 7 fathoms just
outside them.

/>aco7i Ifill, a gentle rise of the land, 2 cables from the water's edge, ami
a mile East of the harbour, is grassy and bare of trf^es ; its heiglit is 140 it.
iind there is a staff or beacon on the summit. Clover Point, at 2 miles oast-
ward of the entrance to Victoria Harbour, is low, bare of trees, and project-
ing. It is steep-to, and off it are some strong tide-rips, dangerous to boats
in heavy weather. Eohh Bay, to the eastward of it, is open, but sometimes
u.ted by small craft if waiting for the tide, thure being from 4 to 5 futhoinsat
2 cables distance off shore. Foul Jiaj, nearl, a viile N.E. of Clover Point, is
of feiaiill extent, and filled with rocks. Oli its entrance are the Temjilar
Rocks, about 4 feet under water, and marked by kelp.

Trial Islands, nearly 1| miles eastwai^ from Clover Point on the South
side of Enterprizo Channel, are two in number, bare and rocky, but gene-
rally ajipear as one. Strong tide ripples pi'evail oil the southern island,
especially during the flood, which runs nearly ('> knots at springs just
outside it.

Enterprize Channel, between Trial Islands and the Vancouver shore is a
narrow, tortuoiis, but deep chaunol, much used by steamers and coasters
trading to Victoria HarLcar, as a slight saving of distance is effected, and
loss tide experienced than by going South of the Trial Islands. Its length is
about a niilo. McNeil Day, on the North side of the channel eastward of
Foul Point, is upwards of 'i cables in extent, with from 2 to 6 fathoms water.
It is open to the southward. Mouatt Reef, in the eastern part of the chan-
nel, 3 cables from Trial Island, and nearly 2 cables off shore, is about a

.^^■s<f^f:(5?«w«.mtf^m".'^r'r;«)jH. ^-"^^.f^^

VANCOUVEll ISLAND.

^'^ for ilo..d This roc^k is dangonms f..v

cable in extert, and coverB at a q«ar • ^^^^^^ ^^^, ^^^^ ^^.^,^^.^^

v,..ok usin, tho Knte, ,r..o Channel a . ho^ , ^,^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^, ^, ,,

GONZALES I-OINT formBtheSL^^^^^^^^^^ ,Ue East .ule.

alowsaliontpoint/roclcy^aroo troes and ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^,^^

Oa. Bay.-F.- «;"- : ^:';i: J^a sandy hay, .hich is .^^
r r ;r :r In r::l a.We .. -o.. near i. No.h

half a mile in extoat, and open .o t^" ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^. ,,,, ,,txance.

and then, is good anchorage .n ^-^ "^ ^^ ^ ^^^ ^ ^,^^„, ,„d West of Chain

Mayor Channel. ^^^^^^^^^Zo^^on t. the northward; its

Idiots, is about 2 mdes long ^^ ^ ^^^^^^ ,,, ,,,„dings in it vary fron.
Wdth in the narrowest part i 3 cable ^.^^ ^^ ^^^^^^

9 to la fathon>s. The channe - ^"^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^ j,^ ^e side lies tho

SUoal and F.ddlo Eeof. and ^^"^^^jl^^ ^^l ^,,,, Zn.l. this channel,
Lewis Koef. The tide se don. runs -- ^^ ^^ .^ ,^,,^,^3 ,,tor, is of
and it is the one generally u^^^^^^ fron.

small extent, and mark, d bj ke p ^^^^_

Gonzales I'oint, at the «.W. P^^ f ^^J.^^,,, ^^.i^g^. lies H -ble west-
Lee KOC, ^•^;^;-;^y;;:::r ;.Ii; anLtoep.toontheEastsi<h.

;:::ir::^^ -^--^ --- --^' ^ ^^^^^ * ^"

cover, at two-thi^^saoodan^^^^^^^ nearly 3 cables S.E. of

Lewis Reef, « ^ ^^^^"^^ ;,, J chain idets, covers at high water
FldJle ileet. and 2 -^^ J^^^^ ^,^, .^est side. The passage between >t

,,a may ^-;PP''-f ^^ll ko p, but has not less than 2 fathoms.

and Chain Islets IS hlled with ko4 and the Vancouver

CHAIN ^'^-^^jJ;^,^J.^.^^.^on,i. a weste.y
shore, are a bare rocky group. ^-^ 1 ^^^^.^ j,,^^^ ^^^.^ .^ a dis-

'^'^''Tut::^:^-^^^-^- -., is n.rked by kelp.
Uuce 01 2 cables < "^^^° . ^^j , t,,,,, u Hecate Passage it ro-

.„d has . ieet "-^ « ^^^^^^^^^^^ ,1, ,,:. West of Channel Point
quires to be guarded '^.'^ "^^, , ^^^^.^ ,, Hecate Passage.

^.j,.W, i >V. leads a ^f^'^^'^^^'^^^ ^ ..'j ,„nuected to it by a

Caroline Reef, ^^ ^^^^^^^'tn.^d er at quarter flood, but is well

DISCOVER' AND CHATHAM IST-ANDH.

;vj:.

is dangerous for
: the fairway,
ver Island. It ia
3 East side,
re trends to the
y, which is some-
re near its North

58 Point, is abont
i>r, rises within it,
lio entrance.
nd West of Chain
he northward; its
igs in it vary from
,t side by Thames
posito side lies the
i-ough this channel,
ithoms water, is of
mile N. by E. from

, lies U ^able wcst-
i-to on the East side.
i, a cable wide, with

)1, and upwards of a
at high water spring

entrance to Oak Bay,

early 3 cables S.E. of
covers at high water,
le passage between it
an 2 fathoms,
ad and the Vancouver
lile long in a westerly
oir East side, at a dis-
•k, is murked by kelp,
H(!cate Passage it ro-
^Vest of Channel Point
;h Hecate Passage,
d connected to it by a
arter flood, but is well
Is. Foul ground, with

from 3 to I fatlioms, and marked by kelp, exists upwards of a < alile West

of it.

DISCOVERY and CHATHAM ISLANDS.— Discovery Island is 2 luil.s
N.E. of Gonziili's Point, at the junction of tlio ilar.) and Fuca Slraits. ll
is wooded, about threo-quartors of a milo iu extent, and its siion.'s on all
sides are bordered by rocks. Ritdlin nay, on its S.i;. side, is liU.'d with
rocks, and should not ha used by any vessel.

Chathnw hlamh, to the N.W. of Discovery Island, niul separated IVoni it
by a narrow boat pass, arc of small extent, forininji- an irregular ki'oi'1». '"«'
and wooded, tho tide rushing with great strongtli tiirou-rji the passages be-
tween them. Lmliii;/ Point, at tho South extreme, is a hare rocky islet at
liigh water. Channel Point, their West extreme, is also bare and steep-to ;
tlie tide runs strong past it. Strong Tide hiet, tho N.W. of tlieso islands, is
rocky, about 50 feet high, and wooded. Its West side forms the eastern
boundary of Paynes Channel, and is steep-to. The ebb tide runs very
strongly past it, nearly 6 knots at springs. K''fiui<- Cove, on tho East sido
ef tho Chatham Islands, is small, and has 1 \ fathom in tho centre ; coasters
or small craft ontangled among these islets may find shelter in it. Alpha
hid, tlie easternmost of tho group, is bare, and 10 feet above high water.

Fulford Reef, .1 cables North of tho Chatham Islands, is about a cable in
extent, and covers at three-quarters flood. Vessels using tlie Paynes ( 'lian-
nel should keep well to the westward to avoid this reef, as tho tido sets
irregularly in its vicinity.

Hecate and Plumper Passages.— Discovery Island is separated from the
Chain Islets by a passage half a mile wide in tho narrowest part, forming
an apparently clear and wide channel, but near tho middle of tho South
part lies Centre Hod, which has only 3 feet oyer it, and tliough marked by
kelp, this, from the strength of tho tides, is often run und(;r, and seldom
seen. There is a deep passage on either side of this danger, tho ono to tho
westward being called Hecate, and the eastern one Plumper Passage. The
latter is wider, and host adapted for large steamers, but the tide sets very
btrongly through both of them.

Baynes Channel, between Cadboro Point and tho Chatham Islands, con-
necting these inner channels with Haro Strait, is upwards of a mile long
and half a mile wide. Tho soundings in it are irregular, varying from l.i
to 30 fathoms, and the tido at springs rushes through it with great velocity,
strongest along the eastern side.

The Fine-fathom Shoal, lying in the centre of the channel, is not marked
by kelp. If wishing to avoid it, a vessel has only to keep a little over on
either side of mid-channel.

CADBORO POINT, on the Vancouver shore, at the termination of tlio
inner channels, is nearly 3 miles North of (Jonzales Point, and three-quarters
of a mile West of the Chatham Islands. It is about 50 feet high, rocky and

r?;nr a i i>,"ft£i^.«i^< :t^y;?''g3T.~

.,,|, VANCOUVER ISLAND.

L .f .roc,. A .n.«U i-K. «- j-t »"' »■ "'- » '"' ""'* '°""- '"

'"t-L Tho hi.h w«t,.r, at lull and chanjo, is irregalav, anJ mud, in-
.7 vaflLrwinlH- the gr.>«to.t ri,« au,l (all ..t ...1» at lli.™",y

X a 1 ™u iug Mtl. «roat ..roagth till .aariy 3 p.,a aftca- .In. 1,

I , , ;, ■. ittill4a... .,.,.!.»f..ll..»i"g .lay. «■'.»» "«'»'''""""""°"''
but hlUo t.J.. .» 1.. It 1 11 4j.au. . ^ ^^^_^ ^1^^ ^|_^^^^

. ?K™.ga*! ll^'d i,..hou.e, a mile, S. b, W. f^m Trial Ma„<l,
L ,■ ,Z N.K. from K.0, I-laud ligb,h„u.s, 1. «pw«d. ol . mdo m

7 » -,1, o lo 14 tathoiM, but o »e«»el should not anchor on it.

'Xl^V2: out Tn^lo iu extent, with W 3^ to 5 fathom, and

r M Th lies nearly in the middle of Fuca Strait, C mdos b. i W.

7 C 1 1 int ir uan I.land 8 miles E. by S. from Discovery Island,

^Ts'l W ' T\L Smith or Blunt Island lighthouse. This bank

o 1 ZoiU as there may be less water on it than was found.

HAEO STRAIT has been described on pages 287-304. We now proceed
J. r Western Coast of Vancouver Island, commencing w.th the coast
beyond Port San Juan, described on page 316.

The WESTERN COAST of Vancouver Island is compnsod between 15o-
„iUa PoTnt. at the entrance of Juan deFuca Strait and Cape Scot the N.W.
"leme oJ the island, a distance of upwards of 200 mdes. Its gener 1
dkection is W.N.W. and E.S.E., but the coast is broken into deep mlets the

prltl of which, Barclay, Clayoquot, Nootka, Kyuquot and Quats.n.

Sounds, are large sheets of water, with features similar to the other great

inlets on this part of the American continent.

Making the Land.-When first making the land, a. unbroken range ot

mountains will be seen; on a nearer approach it appears thickly woode.l,

and apparently fertile, intersected with many deep opemngs and vallej.,

^tm

THE WESTERN ('((AST

ich covers. In

low, very much
. fsld, which is
iiidwiiy botwi'i'ii

) usxhI o'-.copt hy
cessity. CoivsttMs
ontrally proceoil
Rsngoa aro uoavly
Vestoftho Chain

ir, and much in-
tido at Discuvfvy
am comiuoncoB at
p.m., after whifh
lie obb commoni:t)s
r by the shore.
ly 6 miles 8.E. by

from Trial Island,
rards of a milo in
.or on it.

to 6 fathoms, and
,t, 6 miles 8. i W.
i\ Discovery Island,
:house. This bank
than was found.
4. We now proceed
3ing with the coast

iprisod betwcicn Bo-
Jnpe Scott, the N.W.
I miles. Its general
1 into deep inlets, the
uquot, and Ciuatsino
r to the other great

u unbroken range of
)ear8 thickly wooded,
openings and vulicyt*,.

which in moat casos are some of tho inlets before nicntinned. The LuiiNt i^
t;oiiorally low and rocky, but rises immediately to mountains of considerable
height. It IS fringed by numerous rocks and liiddt^u dangers, ospeeially mar
the entrances of tho sounds, and the exercise of groat caution and vigilam o
will be necessary on tlio part of tho navigator to avoid them, oven with lint
pre-sent Admiralty charts. On no occasion, therefore, except where otiiei-
wise stated in tho following pages, should a stranger attempt to enter any of
the harbours or anchorages during night or thick weather, but rather keei)
a good oihng until circumstances aro favourable; and when about to malui
the coast, it cannot be too strongly impreswed on the mariner to take every
opportunity of ascertaining his voseel's position by i^stronomical oljservations,
as fogs and thick weather come on very suddenly at all times of the year,
more especially in summer and autumn months.

Tides.— All along the outer coast or West of Vancouver Island it may bo
said to be high water at full and change when tho moon crosisea the meri-
dian, viz., a^ noon and midnight, the tide showing considerable regularity
as compared \.ith the inner waters, tho greatest rise and fall being every-
where about 12 ft. There are two liigh and low waters in the 2 1 hours all
the year round. In summer months the superior high water is at midnight,
and in winter mouths at noon.

Tho flood s./eam appears to set along the coast to tho north-west, and
the obb to the south-east; neither are of great strength, except in tho
vicinity of Fuca Strait and tlie Scott Islands. In summer months a set is
generally found to the southward, and in winter in tho opposite direction,
but the currents aro irregular, and influenced by prevailing winds.

Soundings.— At the entrance of the Fuca Strait the 100 fathom edge of the
bank extends upwards of .'JO miles oil' shore ; it then runs nearly straight in
a N.W. by W. direction, gradually nearing tho coast, and abreast Cape
Cook or Woody Point the depth of 100 fathoms will be obtained witliin 4
miles of the shore ; to tho N.W. of Woody Point the 100-fathom edge does
not extend more than 10 miles ofl" shore, and to the southward and westward
of the Scott Island oven less.

The nature of tho bottom, when under 100 fathoms, appears to bo geut^-
rally composed of sand and gravel, and does not diller in one part from
another sufiiciently to afford any guide lor ascertaining a vessel's exact posi-
tion on the coast ; tho bank, however, extends far enough off shore to the
S.E. of Cape Cook, that if running for the coast in thick weather, tho
mariner, by sounding in time, will got due notice of his approach to the land,
as the edge of 100 fathoms does not come within 1« miles of it. and tho bank
shoals very gradually.

The Coast Irom Port Sun Juan runs 10 miles in a woatcrly direction to
Bonilla Point, rising gradually to elevations from 1 ,000 to 2,000 ft. lionUla
Point, the North entrance point of Fuca Strait, is 12 miles N.N.W. of Capo

tefp^^tf^i^r ^=*jtsr*ia(iKf^Fi

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

.UUory ; t1.o point slop. p-aclu.Uy to tho «oa. . not .n any w y

Nitinat Lake. »'- -^^'"^ ' u! of .on" lorablo .«•. oxtonding to tho
,ard of 13onma Voint. ^ -"^^-; ; j;j ,. ,,e entrance, and the so.
„orthwavd. There are only 1 to 2 f hon. .^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^.^^^ ^^ ,,..

generally breaks heavily across ' '" ^^.^.^^^^ „„u,a by the natives

'oBtwardofthe entrance ^ ^ ^'^'"'^f'^^^Z.en L i\.^^^ weather, .hen
Tsusiai, .hich may be Been at a good « ^ ^^^ ^^^ ,,,er.fall on this
it would help to identify a vcHBel's pos.tum, bo.ng

C "- -;- - t "" i::"r S t;- :^ ^ntran. of Barclay

Btolter. ^f the sea. 30 miles westward

BARCLAY SOUND*' .. nn ox en >v. ^-]^l „, ,, ^^es wide at

of the entranee of De ^"^^^j,;"", „,^erous islands it maintains this
entrance, and though encumb d by num .^^^ ^^^^^^^

breadth for nearly 12 l^'^^ "J/^^ J. 1 AlbLi Inlet, extends 23 mdes
inlets or canals, the prmcipal of ^s Inc , ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^„ ,,

i„ a northerly direction, .B head reang-th ^^^^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^

inner coast of Vancouver Island^ O the ^.^^ .^veral navigable

parts of the sound, are "— ;^;; " J^;^^^^ to be used with great caution
Lnnels ^^^^-^^f:::^^^^^ the northern part and among
by a stranger. The shores ^nountainous.

the canals, when they become lugh, ^"^^ ^^ ^, j,,, ^nd th. r.so

It is high water, full and change, in Barclay
and fall of tide is about 12 ft. ^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^tends 20

A bank of sand and grave , jf ,^^^^^^^^^^^^ ,„,,,„ee of Barclay Sound.

' ^^■[ • rnjx.' y^.ijf^.mS !''''!'^

CAI'F, r.r,.\I,K-I»KKU 1ST,.\N1)S.

•JO

■wayronmrkaLlp,

, is 7 milt'H west-
oxtonding to th«
,nce, and the Boa
i'our milos to tin-
.a Ly tho nati%•(•'^
k woathor, when
wf.ter-fall on this

early 2 milos dopp
ax 5 to 6 fathoms
[ thero is usually a

mtranco of Barclay
,ay that atl'ords no

30 miles westward
f 14 milos wide at
is it maintains thin
into several narrow
t, extends 23 miles
les of the eastern or
and in the southern
rith several navigahle
ed with great caution
hern part and among
tainous.
I, atl2", andthp rise

,5 fathoms, extends 20
mce of Barclay Sound.
,art of which is. 5 miles
} 19 miles in aW.S.W.

irclay Sound, viz., the
caution in navigating ;

the Albcrni Settlement is
ncd by Captain Berkcly, ot
scovcrcd, the Str.ut of Fuca,

The Eastern Channel, on tlio .nisti<rii sido of J'.imlay Sound, botwi'ou tho
main slion- atul Doer Island^ in 12 milos l,M.g in a N.N.K. dirrntiou, and its
breadth vaiios from I to 1.1 mile. lU shores are low and ruggnd, cxcojit in
tho North part, which bocomos high. Tho soundings iu tho ontrauco vary
from 18 to 22 fathoms, increasing gradually to 00 and 100 futlioms at tlio
North -part. Thoro are sovoriil dangers within it, tli<> rocks olf Capo Bciil.)
and Ohannol Rocks ut tho southern part, and tho Fog Ilock off tho Kiist sido
of TzaartooH Island.

CAFE BEALE, tho S.E. point of entrance of Barclay Sound, and of tho
Eastern Cliannol, is 30 miles N.W. by W. .J W. from (Japo riattcry
lighthouse. It is a bold rocky point, 120 foet high, and some rocks oxtind
off it, from 2 to 1 cablos.

Bamfifld Creek, 4 miles from Cape Bealo, on tho East sido of tlie channel,
runs in 1 J "^ilo in (*■ southerly direction ; there is room for a vessel to moor
at a short distance from its liead in 6 fathoms. Grappkr Creek extends from
tlio entrance of Bamfiold Oeok two-thirds of a mile to the eastward, /vl/i
Bay, 5| miles from Capo Boalo, is two-thirds of a mile wide, a qtmrtor of
a mile deep, and affords a fairly-shelterod anchorage in f. to U fathoms.

Mark Met, 8 miles from Capo Boalo, and one cable olf tho East sido of tho
channel, is small and wooded, and conspicuous from the entrance of tho
Middle Channel.

Numukamis Bay, 9 milos from Capo Boale, at the N.E. part of the East-
era Channel, is of an oblong shape, 3 milos wide and 1 A mile doop ; its siioro.s
rise gradually to mountains from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. hi"!!. In tho centre of
the bay are the San Jos<! and Reef Islets, of small extent and low.

Poett Nook, in tho South part of this bay, about one mile within its
S.W. point, is a landlocked basin, about 3 cables long and 2 cables wide,
with 7 fathoms water.

Turti Hand, at the N.E. point of the Eastern Channel, and dividing it
from the Alberni Channel, is small and wooded, and separated by a narrow-
boat pass from the E. shore.

Ship Islet, at the S.W. point of the Eastern channel, N.W. J N., 2 miles
from Cape Beale, is 100 ft. high and rocky, with a few remarkable trees on
ils northern part, which at some distance seaward give the islet the ai)poar-
ance of a ship under sail, and form a good mark for identifying the channel.
There are from 23 to 24 fathoms at 2 cables distance from it.

DEEB ISLANDS form the western boundary of the Eastern Channel, and
run N.N.E. and S.S.W. for 10 miles, with a breadth varying from one to 2
miles. They are low, and of inconsiderable size, except tho northern one,
which is 1,000 ft. high in parts, and of considerable extent. Thoro is only
one navigable passage through them, the Satellite I'ass, between llelby and

Hill Islands.
King Island, the southernmost of these islands, is about one mile long and

T?w;;f.' <-stt.'?:

nso

VANroiTVKW ISLAND

lialfamilobnm.l. Its slioros nro vory ruKgwl ««<! broken, with rocks ox-
teiidinjc from I to 'J (hIiIi'H "H.

Channel Rooks, on tlm Wost Hi.l.> of tlio channol, 3 ciibloH Kiwt of Kin«
Island, iin<l 1 milo H.N.K. iroiu Khip hlot, aro about 1 cnblo in oxttmt, uihI
,!ovor at half Hood. Thero aro 10 to 1*2 fathoms at the dintanco of a culde
to tho oastward of th.^m, and tho soa gonorally brcakH ov..r tboin. Tli.y
muHt bo carofuUy avoidod.

Diana Island, soparatod from King Isbvnd by a pasHago full of rocks,
is of triangular shapn, about U milo wide, and throo-quartors of a milo
broad. Its shores aro rocky, and at a diHtanco of 2 cabins from its K. nido is
Todd Rock, awash at high wator, with 16 fathoms cloao to it.

Entrance Anchorage.—//-//"/ hland, tho next island northward of Diana,
has off its North side a small, but w.-ll sholtorod, an.horago, in Ironi C
to 9 fathoms, easy of access from either the Eastern or Middle Channels,
and very convenient as a stopping-place for vessels entering or leaving
Barclay Sound.

Hill Island, two-thirds of a milo North of Tlelby Island, and soparatc.l
from it by tho Satellite Tass, is small, with a summit of moderate height at
its southern end. At a quarter of a milo South of it is a patch of :5A fathonis
water, marked by kelp, and there are several small islets and rocks oil its H.
and W. sides.

Robbers Island, separated from Rill Island by a passage full of rocks, is
2 miles long and 1 milo broad at its widest part. It is low and stoep-fo uu
tho eastern side, and between it and TzKartoos Ibland is a snuill landlocked
basin of 5 to 7 fathoms wator, but almost inaccessible.

Tzaartoos or Copper Island, tho northernmost of the Deer Islands, it) 1,1
miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and U milo broad. It h higher than tho
other islands, rising in many parts to 800 and 1,000 ft. ; its eastern side, ex-
cept in the vicinity of Sproat Bay, is steep-to, and may be approached to 2
cables. Limestone of a fine quality is to be found in its northern part, and
there are several indications of copper and iron ores.

Sproat liaij, on the East side of Tzaartoos Island, is about half a mile wide
and 2 cables deep. In its centre are two small islets, and between them and
the southern side of the bay a vessel may anchor in from 11 to 16 fathoms.
Leading Blitjf, situated just South of the bay, is a steep point 400 ft. high,
and conspicuous from the entrance of the Eastern Channel.

Fog Rock, lying about 2 cables East of Sproat Bay, is of snuiU extent,
with only 9 ft. over it, and steep-to all round. This danger is in the track of
vessels using Sproat Bay, and requires caution to avoid it, not beiug marked
by kelp in the spring.

Nob Point, the S.W. entrance point of Alberni Inlet, and N.W. point of
Eastern Channel, is about half a mile to the northward of Tzaartoos Island,

with roekn ox-

ia KiiBt of KiiiK
t in oxtciit, ami
anew of a cable
or thoin. Tiny

i;fl full of roekn,
irtors of a milo
rem its K. Hide is

hwftrd of Diana.
)rago, in Irom f>
^fiddlo Chnnnolrt,
;oring or loavinj^

d, and soparati'd
idorato Iwijjht at
trh of '.)\ fatlioniB
id rockH oil" its E.

> full of rocks, is
V and 8toeii-t(i on
small landldikid

locr Islands, iti 1 i
is higher than thi'
i eastern side, ox-
npproathcd to '2
orthern part, and

it half a mile wide
between thoni and
1 to 16 fathoms,
(oint 400 ft. high,

I of small extent,

)r is in the track of

not being marked

ind N.W. point uf
■. Tzaartoob Island,

AMJEUXI IM.KT— .JC'IlKCIvI.KSir ll.\i;iU)mi.

;;;n

and nearly 1.! miloH from Capo IJealo. It is a roniarkablo clilly projecting
point I't'i ft. high, Htucp-to on its South and East Hides.

ALBERNI INLET, i.; tiio N.E. part of llaniay Sound runs in a winding
northerly direction for 22 miles, with a breadth varying from 2 cables t<i I
mile, and terminates in a hne capacious anchorage at its head ; the shores on
either side are rocky and rugged, rising abruptly from the sea to mountain-t
2, ()(»() and .'1,000 ft. higli ; at tiie in^ad, liowever, tiio land l)ecomes low .ind
fertile, a l.irge (piantity being tit for cultivation. A settlement and large saw
mills are established there, and (quantities of timber exported to dillerout parts
of tlio world.

The soundings to within 1 mile of the head vary from 160 to 10 falliom-',
and the shores of the inlet are everywhere free from danger. The ontrunc(t
between Nob Toint and Turn Island lies at the tormiuutiou of the Eastern
(.'hannel, l.'J miles N.N.E. from Capn lieale.

San Mateo Hay, on the East side of the inlet, li milo North of Turn
Point, is throe-(piarters of a milo wide, and one mih) deep. Its shores are
high, and the soundings iu it vary from 20 to 50 fathoms, being too deep for
anchorage.

Mutine Point, mi<hvay between this bay and Turn Isl u ^ is rocky, and
as at a short distance oil it a rock is said to exist, a berth of 2 cables ought
to bo given in passing. Just South of this point i^ a, small bay with irre-
gular soundings from 11 to 17 fathoms, which mit, be used as a stopping-
plar

UCHUCKLESIT HARBOUR, on the West side of ♦'■ j inloi, 2 miles with-
in Nob I'oint, is !J miles long iu a westerly direction, and its average breadth
is al)out half a mile ; the North shore is high, rising gradually to mountains
of 2,000 and 3,000 feet, but the South shores and head are ]ow ; all uiMtreo
from danger at the distance of a cable. The soundings vary from 20 to 10
fathoms, and there are two secure anchorages. Green Cove at the entranc(j,
and Snug Basin at the head, with from 9 to 15 fathoms water. Linmtonr,
of a very tine quality ia to be procured at the head of the harbour, and vual
has been found.

Green Cove, just within the entrance on the North side of the harbour,
affords a snug, well-sheltered anchorage in 9 to 14 fathoms. Uarbour Island,
off its South side, and completely landlocking the anchorage in that direc-
tion, is of small extent, with a clear deep passage on either side into the an-
chorage. A rock lies half a cable off its S.E. point.

This anchorage is convenient as a stopping-place for vessels bound to or
from Stamp Harbour at the head of Alberui Inlet, and the entrances to it,
on either side of Harbour Island, make it available to sailing vessels or
steamers.

steamer Pasnage, on the East side of Harbour Island, leads into Green
Cove. It should only be used by steamers, or sailing ships with a fair wind.

TTt-wuit-ir/an^

I . I u i i"H I J ' J W t> ^ .'^¥'^-m'M*U I"^ ^- *TS»TMa^ *f f^-^^r^ 4K>^^^^^

VANCOUVEll ISLAND.

'' OnTo No«. ...on., ««c „.«e fro. 0«» C»,. ^ a ,».. »«oa. „t r„,.,

.ndmaybouMdas a .topp.ng-plaoi. il worB g
.t„amdisomb..8ue,ati..head ^__^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ .,j„,_ „ ,

Tho Second N«rov«, 1^ -J ' ^,,,^ .,,„, ,,,h iC f.tho„,» .a

:r;:- : -r'TX ;-S ^.^n >. M.H .a.. ... ..U „,.. . ...e

western show ^^^^„ „„ ,„.„ „u„ „ i,l, at l..w

•IhoFi,.. Narrows, •« J -'"'^^ West side dries out o„o oable ..t l-w

:::rZI;.":;.ti;,Hs.O ratbon^s. and i„ ,0-,0. t,,.oa,,t,.ea,

,.,es.olouBht to keep weUo,» on tUe extern «^^^^ _^.^__^ ^__^ _^,.„_,„

Stamp Harbour. »' *« fj^nd .t^; ' t^^^^^ cables to t n,Ue.

anehoraRe, 2 m.les m leBgth, •^^""^J ^^^^ ^^ „„d head are le.v

It. western shore is "'S^ ""^ '™^^^; ^^^^A almost ht for cultivation. A
„„d fertile, '''^JXl tLI^ " *".. Wws into .h, harbour at the

rra:ri:::;.b.:r»noesse.^^^^^

Met, often exceeding 1 knot »•«■■«;- ^.^^ .^j, „, stamp Harbour

An extensive saw-miU has been i)u, w„,k„cn coMected

-^«-«-"7:::'°reat;:au :i:f:^ait .r.... m «. wor,d

with the "'»''''"''7";. °';t Vo. -a vessels ot considerable si» may

S.W. and the ^l^^^^^'*^^,^, ,f .^e harbour, i. a small hare rock ahou
Observatory Inlet, xu the c^nt^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^, ,,^ ^x.

6 feet above high ^vater home roc ^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^

„,ay be approached Avithm one cable. It is

^'m^l^s-lu entering Barclay 8ound through the Eastern Channel, th

BARCLAY SOUND-MIDDLE CITANNEL.

;j;{a

TTiirbour Islaiu'l, is 1
(,in 1 1 t') 20 fathom?,
reen Cove by Stoauier

largo stroam of fre.sli

ends N.E. 'by E. for
;runsN.by W. tothe

)t, 10 miles within itw

to 20 fathoms water,

3wn the inlet ; a large

KG of the inlot, are 3
le, with -ifi fathoms in
ir, keep well over to tlie

two cables wide at low
38 out one cable at low
d in going through them

a capacious and secure
li from 4 cables to 1 mile.
■n side and head are low
lost lit for cultivation. A
i into the harbour at the
t has its source in a chain
and, and the quantity of
constant cui-rent out of the

it side of Stamp Harbour,
of the workmen connected
nest timber in the world

of considerable size may
lere are 4 fathoms almost

8 to 12 fathoms, at the
id, with Observatory Islet

, is a small bare rock about

alf a cable North of it, but

lat. 49^ 13' 46' N., long.

Th the Eastern Channel, the

S.E. entrance point. Cape Beale, may bo easily recognized from the 8.E., by
the islands West of it. Ship Islet being also very conspicuous from the trees
on its North part. In approaching or rounding the capo, do not come nearer
than half a mile to avoid the rocks off it, until Turn Island at the North part
of Eastern Channel is well shut in by Leading Bluff, Tzaartooa Island, N. by
E. 'l E., when steer up the Eastern Channel with that mark on, which will
lead clear of the rocks off the West side of Cape Beale, and East of Channel
Hocks. When Ship Island bears W.S.W., tue vessel will be well North of
the latter, and may then steer up mid-channel about N.N.E. ; on noaring
Leading Bluff, keep the East side of llill Island open South of it S.W. i S.,
to pass East of the Fog Eock, until the West side of Nob Point comes open
East of Limestone Point N. i W., when steer up within 2 cables of either
shore, or in mid-channel. If bound to Stamp Harbour, after entering the
Alberni Inlet, the only direction required i.s to keep mid-channel, and anchor
on the eastern side of the harbour, with the bearings already given.

After entering the Alberni, a strong southerly wind will generally be ex-
perienced, blowing home to the head ; it however usually falls a little during

the night.

A steam-tug is attached to the saw-mill establishment, for the purpose of
towing vessels through the Eastern Channel ; when a vessel is expected tha
tug generally lies in Dodger Cove, at the entrance of Middle Channel, where
a good look-out can be kept.

If beating into the Eastern Channel, which ought only to be done by small
or quick working vessels, when standing towards Cape Beale, tack before
the passage between Turn Island and the main comes open of Leading Bluff
N.N.E. Ship Islet may be approached to a quarter of a mile ; when Hear-
ing King Island, or the Channel Eocks, tack when Turn Island comes shut
in with Leading Bluff. As a rule, in standing towards the East shore do not
come within 2 cables, and after passing the Channel Eocks, keep outside of
the line of Deer Islands. On nearing Leading Bluff and Fog Eock, keep
Hill Island open of the former S.W. i S. till Nob Point comes well open of
Limestone Point N. i W., which clears the Fog Eock to the South and N.E.
In standing into Numukamis Bay, give Eeef and San Jose Islands a berth
of about 2 cables, after which the shore on either side may be approached to
about a cable, except nearthe centre of Numukamis Bay, which should not
bo approached closer than half a mile.

If necessary to anchor for the night, or from other causes, Entrance an-
chorage, in the Deer Group, just North of Helby Island, is recommended,
being seciire, and easy jf access from either Eastern or Middle Channels.
Kelp, Si roat, and Nahmint Bays, also Green Cove, are easy of access, and
may bo used as stopping-places.

MIDDLE CHAIINEL, the largest passage into Barclay Sound, is adjacent
to the Eastern Channel, and separated irom it by the Doer Islands. It is

^ - ■ fp i M>JMm ff"-g

■■■

VANCOUVER ISLAND-

, , -n „ N N E direction, and U milos wide in tl.o
narrowest part, being ^"-'^-^ °^"^'^; "'n. '30 to .4 fathomB, and off

,ea in llii» cliannel. .„h.n„c9 of Middle Clhamiel, 35 milos

Banger Eook, in tl,e S.E. part^ entrance of _^^^^ ^^^_^ ^^ .^ j_,^^_

W. * N. from Cape Boalo, and S.W bj . 4 " ^jj „,

of ..all extent, and on., break. ,n l-"^; ;*»^,,,.X W«nd j„.t opon

,0 t„tbon,. at a <'>;'«-7^';t'Ld. ti a mile E./of Danger Eo.. ;

Channel Eeef lies near the centre «f /^ «^J^;;; ^^. ft,„ pangev
.1 MIT 3 «5 from Ship Islet, and li miie w.i^.

Lr"t!-alira«e-.»t,^^o«^;-

t^^^™- , ,. • .v, c; W nart of entrance of Middle Channel, b\

Western Keef lies m the S.W part ot e ^^^ _ .^ .^

'tla^rr tb. .. ^^^^^^^^^ .ar„ , .i.e

W^Tfllt- ; ':.:r ir"f l.U e.«e„t, and^ooded. U i. ..eep-to and

cliffy on the Sonth and We.t mde. _ _^^ j^,^„,i „„;

,/„.,. P.-,. leadingmol^^dleCnb ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^

steamers or sailing vessels with a fair wiud^ ^^^^^^ ^.^^^ ^^^

bya«li«ns''r. r „„ T„tmMo Wand, lic> between Helby and Hill

satellite Pa... C ";J:7^ 1, cilanneK U. l.n#b i, .bont

JUNCTION PASSAGE-imOKEN GROUr.

;^3r>

loa widfi i" the
lis small isliiuils
fathoms, ami off
annol Reef, and
lire groat caution
ally a very heavy

hannel, 3i miles
from Ship Islot,
e are from 22 to
f Island just open
of Danger Rod^ ;
me distance We^t
it West of Storm

,eef.

Middle Channel,
W. from Danger
vater, and has 27

to 50 fathoms in
narks clear both of

[iddle Channel, 5:\

rokon Group ; it is

not be approached

jefs.

, and nearly 1 mile
It is steep-to and

Entrance Island and
oms water, and the
r from the South or
,, is two-thirds of a
nd may be used by

between Diana and
nile long and a cable
ice. It affords good
)uld not be attempted

tweenllelbyandnill

Its length is about

middle vary from to

22 fathoms, and the South side is clear of danger, but 3 cables South of Ilill
Island, on the N. side of the pass is a shoal patch with aj fathoms, marked
by kelp. Leading Bluff open of East side of Hill Island N.E. by N. loads
to the S.E. of this shoal.

A vessel bound to Albenii Inlet, after having entered Middle Channel,
should proceed through this pass into the Eastern Channel, and on to tlie
inlet through the latter, keeping about 1 or 2 cables North of Ragged, llelby
and Wizard Islands.

Village Rocks, lying on the East side of Middle Channel, 6 miles from En-
trance Island, and one-third of a mile from the N.W. point of Robbcr.s
Island, are 2 cables in extent, nearly awash at low water, and usually
break in heavy weather. They should not bo approached within a quarter
of a mile.

Chain Islands, on the East side of Middle Channel, avo a chain of small
islets and rocks nearly 4 miles long in a northerly direction. They run pa-
rallel to the West side of Tzaartoos Island, being separated from it by a
passage three-quartery of a mile wide, but filled with rocks, and among wiiioh
no vessel should enter.

Swixs Boy Hand, the southernmost of this group, is snail and cliffy, and
2 cables West of it is Bull Rock, of small extent, with less than 2 fathoms
water, which breaks in bad weather. A vessel ought not to approach the
West side of these islands within half a mile, except when rounding their
North part.

JUNCTION PASSAaE, at the N.E. part of Middle channel, connecting it
with the Alberni Inlet and Eastern Channel, lies North of the Chain and
Tzaartoos Islands, between them and the main. It is 2 miles long in au
easterly direction, about one-third of a mile wide, its shores are clear of dan-
ger, and the soundings in mid-channel vary from 50 to 84 fathoms. On the
North side of the passage is Rainy Bay, al)out 1 \ mile in extent ; but thero
are several rocks and small islets within it, the shores are rugged and broken,
and the water too deep to afford anchorage. Northward of this bay, and
connected to it by a very narrow boat pass, is Useless Inlet, a large sheet of
water with from 9 to 20 fathoms, which no vessel can enter.

BROKEN OROXJP, which forms the boundary of Middle Channel along
the West side, is composed of a number of small islands and rocks, covering
a space upwards of 6 miles long and 4 miles wide. They are low, and the
principal ones wooded, the largest being about a mile in extent ; there are
several passages through them, and a good anchorage, called Island Har-
bour, in their N.E. part, but as a rule no stranger should venture among
them or approach within half a mile, as the soundings are irregular, and
there may exist ro('ks besides those marked on the Admiralty charts.

Redonda, the S.E. island of this group, lies at the S.W. entrance point of
Middle Channel, 4^ miles W. i N. from Ship Islot. It is small, wooded, and

kti

VANCOUVi li ISIANI).

•^'^^' , -ui a nff its S E. point, and lu.lf a

,. . .una shape ; so.e ^f^^^jfT^l^^^- l'— ^^f
„nle E.N.E. of it is a reef -^ ^^/^^^^^ ^.^ae. with fro. 19 to .3 fa-
Island and Channel Reef is a£Bsage 1

thom«, but it should not bo attempted by a » ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^,,^^,^^ „,,

7me Mand, the largest of ^^f^^'^^XloU and ditty. On its Nor,h
„,.avds of a mile in ^^^^^^^ landing may be eifeeted m
side is a village of cous.derablo sue,

almost all weather. ^j^^.^on through the Brokea

Coaster Channel. -^-VlTd is aW miles long, and from hall a m. e
aroup. North of ^^^^^ ^l^, , but as there are several rocU
to 1 mile wide, with from 1 to 24 ^ ^^^^^^^^

within it, this channel sbou d -t be attemp J^ ^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^

Village Beef, in ^^^:l^^^ .ator ; there are 34 fathoms at
ViUnge lelana, is small, and 4

3 ,.»W.s E»t otit. ^ E r.rt of Broken Orour, a„a 6 Bile, from to

Island Harbour, >» the ^^\T^''°^ „ell..hol.erc,l anchorage, about hal
..«„ce of Middle «.-*; J,^ ^,1, „,.„ ., it i. formed by ...orui
a mile in extent, with from 10 to H lam .^ j^__^ j,,^ j,,j,„„

S. and island., and .he« ^rS^^Z protectin, it in that^^-
Channel, M.rf..» /•'""• °» f "^^ „^„„„. £„« W* 3 eablo. S.S.^
«„„, i. t«o.third. of a nnle long, and na ._^ ^^^ ^^^„ . „„,

f „„ Protection Island, '"-« ^-^Jf ^^ L ^A .hich .o,.r a. t»o-
i.lcti. conspicuous from the soutbw^i ^^^^^ .^ ^^^

,W,ds flood, lie 1 cable N-N^"' >'" ^,i, , »ble. East of Elbe«

Wand, and are .teep-.o on aAl s>de. i ^^^^^^^ ^__,^ j_^^^, ,„ k,„y
Wet, almost in the la>r«ay f'^ *„,„ri„g the harbour by that passage.

weather, and i. dangerous to «»»1' J'' ^ g„„,h „, by the Harbour
Wand Harbour may be entered e«tohy ^^^ ^^^ ^^,^^„„„

Entrance. The South » »""• '^'^J, ^j.^ ,„„ 9 to 14 fathoms wato,.
l.land,islH«hle-l«'"2North .d of rroteCiou IsW, between >
Harbour Entrance, •>»"» *? ''"""^'i.^,, .„d it. breadth averages about
.„daibraltarIsland,>snoarl,an„ 1 8^ ^^ ^ ,, j^^,„^, j ,„

V:S.:f;rrit:re:d,u:.theChanne,Boe.of.m.ne..

tent, with only » fee. on i« '^^'^X „t .h, barbeur, about 2 cables We..

'^''■'STonr:rPr:l*rd. mfromfO to 1. fathoms, protect^h,

r *;llMu,lin. islands from «.e-^^^^^^^^ ^,^,„„. .,, .,.H, .nl.»

i„g ,e»el. « ith a fair ^nd. _^ ;, „„„„ , „il. ,.

J^^'JZt::^^ East and West of U some laets and

■. . ^_ ' jy,-S..j4-,*!i...:.iffl '>'^^-"'-^

^mim

SESHART OnANNETi.

337

point, and half a
3etween Eedonila
com 19 to 33 fa-

i of Eedonda, ami
Vy. On its N Drill
imy be effected iu

irorgh tho Broken
ad from hall" a milo
B arc several ruck^

ngor.

ilf a mile North «.f

re are 34 fathoms at

and 5 miles from the

inchorage, about half

18 formed by several

, it from the Middle

cting it in that direc-

Uet, 3 cables S.S.W.

3tch in the centre ; the

,, which cover at two-

een it and Protection

cables East of Elbow

only breaks in heavy

hour by that imssage.

ath or by the Harbour

Eocks and Protection

9 to 14 fathoms water.

tion Island, between it

breadth averages about

, to 18 fathoms, and in

nnel Rock, of smaU ex-

,our, about 2 cables West
, 12 fathoms, protected by

without the ihart, unless
ugut to be entered by sail-
Group, is nearly imilei^
West of it some islets and

rocks extend out half a milo. At half a milo East of its East point is a
small bare rock S feot above liigh water, named Hu-ak Uork, wliiih is
very conapieuous from the ^fiddle Channel, and marks tlie East entranctf of
Seshart Channel.

SESHART CHANNEL is North of Broken Group between it and the main,
and connects the Western and Middle Cliannols. It is a wiiidiiij;; channel
5 miles long in a westerly direction, and about half a mile wide; tlio
soundings in it vary from 16 to 35 fathoms, and a mid-cliannel course
through is free of danger.

Capstan falaml, 3 miles from the East entrance, and nearly in the middle
of this channel, is small, and the southernmost of a nujuber of small islands,
extendiiij; nearly 1 milo from the North shore. Westward of these islets is
an extensive village called Seshart, to the southward of which a vessel may
anclior a quarter of a mile off shore.

liird Islets are two small, bare, conspicuous rocks lying almost in the centre
of the North part of Middle channel, 9 miles from the entrance ; the southern
islet is 35 feet, and the northern 30 feet above high water.

Eflangham Inlet, the entrance to which is in the N.V.'. part of Middle
channel, is naiTOW, and about 8 miles long in a curved direction to the N. W.,
terminating in a low swamp ; its shores on both sides are high and rocky,
the western one indented by several bays. Tho soundings in it vary from
3.5 to 70 fatlioms, and there is no anchorage.

Vernon Bay, 1 milo East of Effingham Inlet, at the head of Middle Chan-
nel, is upwards of a mile in extent, open to the southward, and too deep to
afford anchorage ; its shores are high nnd rocky. At 3 cables off Palmer
Point, its S.W. extreme, is a rock 3 feet above high water.

The North slioro of Middle Channel is rocky and bold, rising? in some
places to mountains upwards of 3,000 ft. high ; it is steep-to, and clear of
danger ; in southerly winds the sea breaks violently along it.

DIRECTIONS. — Entering Barclay Sound by the Middle Channel with a
fair wind, and coming from the West or S.W., keep well clear of the west-
ern part of the Sound, and 3 miles South of Broken Group. Steer towards
Ship Islet on an E.N.E. bearing, until Mark Islet comes open North of
Ragged Island N.E., when haul into the Middle Channel with that mark on
which will lead midway between Channel Reef and Danger Rock ; when
Ship Islet bears E. by N. the vessel will be clear North of them, and may
then steer up mid-char.nel. If bound to the Alberni Inlet, a sailing vessel
ought to proceed through Satellite Pass into the Eastern Channel (as the
wind is generally unsteady in Junction Passage), proceeding according to the
directions given in page 335 for the latter channel. Should it, however, be
requisite to go through Junction Passage, give th« Chain Islands a berth of
iiearlv half a mile to avoid the rocks off them, and steer iu mid-channel
through the passage into Alberui Inlet.

North Pactlic. *

338

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Unloss intending to go through Sateliito passage, do not approach the
Beer Island within half a mile.

If entering Middle Channel from the eastward, or in thick weather, and
not able to see the marks for clearing the reefs, keep well out until Entrance
Island boars North, when steer through Hecate Passage so as to pass 2 or 3
cables West of the island, which will lead well eastward of all danger, then
proceed as before directed.

Boating into Middle Channel, when South of Danger Eock and Channel
Eeef, keep Sail Rock (which lies ofiF the S.W. side of Broken Group, and is
very conspicuous) open South of Storm Island, the southernmost of the
group, N.VV. by W. .J W., until Mark Islet comes nearly on with the S.E.
point of Hill Island N.E. i E., when, if standing to the westward, tack ; in
standing to the eastward avoid shutting in the passage between Flill and
Ragged islands ; tacking when these latter marks are on will load between
Danger and Channel Reefs, and clear of them ; when Ship Islet bears Enst,
a vessel will be northward of them, and may stand over to about half a mile
of the Deer Islands, and a mile of the Broken Group. If bound to Alborni
Inlet, when able to lay through the Satellite Pass, do so, keeping nearer to
its South shore, and beat up to the former through the Eastern Channel.
No vessel sliould attempt to beat through Middle Channel unless the weather
be clear and the marks well made out.

WESTERN CHANNEL leads into Barclay Sound westward of the Broken
Group, between it and Great Bank. Its length is about 4 miles in a north-
erly direction, its breadth from 1 to 2 miles. Sail Mock, lying ofl" the S.W.
]iart of Broken Group, is a bare rock like a sail, rising 100 foot above tlie
soa, and v^ry conspicuous. Shap Mock, 8 feet above high water, on the Ea.st
side of the channel, 2J miles N. J W. from Sail Rock, and half a mile West
of tho Broken Group, is small and bare, and foul ground exists 1 cable from
it. Mound hland, near the middle of the North part of the channel, is small,
but 200 ft. high ; it lies 3^ miles N. by AV. from Sail Rock.

Black Rock, at the S.W. entrance point of the Western Channel, 3 J miles
R.W. by W. i W. from Sail Rock, is 10 feet above high water, and small .
some roc^ks which break extend 2 cables East of it.

Channel Mock lies at the S.E. extreme of the Great Bank, on the West
side of the channel. It is bare, 15 feet above high water, and steep-to on its
eastern side. Great Bank is, within the 10-fathom edge, 2\ mile;; long in a
northerly direction, and its greatest breadth is 1 1 mile ; on the shoalest parts,
near the North and S.W^. ends, are from 3 to 4 fathoms, marked by kelp,
over whii li in heavy gales the sea breaks.

Directions. — The Western Channel, though cleai- of danger and wide, ought
only to be used by steamers, or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and
not then unless boimd to Toquart Harbour, in the north-western part of
Barclay Sound. In entering, give the Sail and Blfuk Rocks a berth of

FiAlJCLAY SOUND; I'KACdCK ('TIANNKI-, KTC

.■i;'.',)

ot approach the

!k weather, and
t until Entrance
a8 to pass 2 or 3
all danger, then

Rk and Channel
3n Crroup, and is
lernmost of the
I with the S.E.
(tward, tack ; in
jtween Flill and
ill lead between
Islet bears East,
ibont half a mile
lound to Alborni
aeping nearer to
Eastern Channel,
iless the weather

ird of the Broken
miles in a north-
>ng off the S.W.
I foot above the
ater, on the East
half a mile West
dsts 1 cable from
ihannel, is small,

Channel, 3;^ miles
ater, and small .

ik, on the West
ud steep-to on its
^ mile:; long iu a
he shoalest parts,
narked by kelp,

r and wide, ought

fair wind, and

i-western part of

[Jocks a berth of

half a mill', and steor up mid-channel, passing lialf a milo West of Kouiid
Isliirid,

PeaooolC Channel runs through tlic N.W. part of Broken Group in a
N.E. direction from tlie Wostorn to Scsliart ("liunnnl. It is about 3 miles
long, and nearly a mile wide, with from 20 to 30 fatlionis ; its \Vt'Hl side is
clear of danger, but on its East side, 1.1 mile within the West entrance, and
2 cables West of Puzzle IshiTid, lies (ialliij Rock, which uncovers at low water,
and has 22 fathoms I cable S.W. of it. This channel is fit for steamers, or
sailing vessels with a fair wind.

Hand [stand, the N.W. of the Broken Group, and at the S.W. entrance
point of iSeshart Channel, is small and rugged ; foul ground exists off its
East and West sides, which should not be approached within 3 cables.
Lijall Point, at the N.W. extreme of Seshart Channel, on the main, and a
mile N.W. by N. from Hand Island, is a low shai-p point.

Majme Bay, northward of Lyall Point, is of an oblong shape, 2 miles
long and one mile deep. Its shores, except near the North part, are low,
and steep-to, the soundings vary from 20 to 2.5 fathoms, and thtn-e is no
anchorage except in its south-east corner, where there is a limited spot
with 14 fathoms about 2 cables off shore ; the group of small islets, tlie
Sisters, extending South 5 cables off the N.W. point, may be approached
to a cable.

Stopper Islands, lying half a mile We=it of Mayne Bay, are about IJ mile
in extent, wooded, and 200 ft. high ; rocks extend from 2 to 3 cables off their
East and West sides.

David Channel, leading into Toquart Harbour between Mayne Bay and
the Stopper Islands, is about 2 miles long in a northerly direction, 3 cables
wide in its narrowest part, and the soimdings in it vary from 17 to 22 fa-
thoms. The Richard Rock, on its West side, 4 cables from the Stopper
Islands, is steep-to on the East side, and may be approached to a cable's
distance ; \ vessel should not go between this rock and the islands.

Toquart Harbour, in the N.W. corner of Barclay Sound, 9 miles from the
entrance of Western Channel, is about 1^ mile in extent, and well sheltered
by the Stopper Islands from all winds. The anchorage is of considerable
extent, in from 12 to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom.

Village Passage leads into the harbour westward of Stopjier Islands ; it is
upwards of a mile long, and clear in mid-channel.

Fipestem Inlet is a long narrow inlet, extending upwards of ■> miles
nearly straight in a north-easterly direction from the north-east part of To-
quart harbour. It has 19 to 37 fathoms water, but affords no anchorage
whatever; its shores are rocky, and rise abruptly to 1,000 and 2,000 feet
above the sea ; at its head is a small patch of swampy groimd, some fresh-
water streams flowing through it.

The West Coast of Barclay Sound from Toquart Harbour to Ucluelet

VANrorVER ISLAND.

''*" X ^ ,^^\\' a.ul N N.K . nnd risos graduaUy to

Arm runs nonrly .tva.pht nhont S.S.NV . ru ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^,^^,^,^^

,,i,,h laud 2..X.0 foot ab..vo tho soa . ^^.^^_^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^,^,,^^ ,,,,„...

, ,,„,„ ..f .„u.U islauds run paral.1 t ^^^^_^^^ _^_^^^ ^,^,, ^,,.^,

,uarters of a mile o,f. w.h fron. '; 'j f 7;,.,.,,..,.,, ,,„, .toep-to uu it.

:U..ro, aroa nuu..or of -1;;;;;-;,^;;^ :;::,„, ,,0 Great Hauk. south-
Ship Channel. l.otw.H-u ' ":\''" ;,,,,,,^,,, ^,„,. „„i i^ o.ear of dauger.

ward of >^-^'-^'^»'-t?"^^ ';';•;';' .third, of a mib broad in itn

It is 4 milo. lou, N.N.E. aud ^"^^^^J^l^ ,, ,, ,, ,,Uou.. />o«W,.
narrowest part, and thn Houud.u.s v Y 1 - ^^.^ ^^ ^. ^^^^ ,^^^,

:;;::!:rKw.or;:lh,is.:d,outh..^^^^^^^^^

,,.. ..1 i.avo ; kolp -tend. 2 ^^^^^':^ ^,^^^,^^ ,,„,.,ets Ship Chan-
,,,y Channel, to ^^ X::^:i:^J,.. ./rook, aud roo.. and
,„.! Mill, tl..- "<■««"■ It wKo'i" „,,|;,ic.„,lv cxamiuod to m-.m,m«i..l

,„„„,„ i,»W..y d«,,, i. hn» ■;- '-^'^ to No„. pa« v„y t™„, .«
i,» ,,,.i„B ,.»d by a , mug.. ■ "^ ^^^ "^ „„ , a„.u„ „t .v.k, ab.m,

„„„„. .n-1 r. »bU, North .t ho a b r,. „ k^ ^ ^^^ ^^ ^__^^^^^^

i, „,„■»«, and oxl...,<l» .4 m>l"» '" «", / .„i,„.,i„. l,. South

,„ „,„ „a,o, »a«. «»a .•T"'*'^ '"™ ' J^^ ■;;!' „, a bay. ; tho northon,
.h„„i,h», -".^-;»^Y:tT.h:" .BOO n,.,,d. nlg™.h...ly to a

r:: :::? :nt*;i -X tho ... -^ - --• *-
^--tS'r::;c:r^:-.hotou...o

Shelter Wand., «r™;;^^ » ^^^fj ;, ."l,, ,.„« „d rock., about a n.ilo

,.,„, i„ a -->'— ,,^';r ;: : '^^ °" -«..• ...twrd »« th..

.heller the am. '»"'"»; ^,„„t , j.,, „,,„e high water.

„„rlhoru ,...«, .. of .ma c tu l^ a ^_^^^^^_^ .^ ^^ ^^^^^^.^^ p^,„j

(•„,..//„. «»«..';, \\0»t ol Oeutre , ^e.lcramost passaee

„„„.,V. l.oi"."';2™:Lirat r;.1;.::ue. appear, to be the be.,
ra::::::t:"e"-:.h,„ol,,elelar„.ro..ea».rd.

■fr iBmW^ ^ -^ ^ '^^^^'-^^ -'^

CLAVouriiT S(trM».

341

son prnibmlly to

I Stopi'iT lHllln<l^*
■(> of about Www
Mil iintl tlu' shore.
j;h, 8toop-to ou its
v„m tho oVpoHito

■oat Hank, soutli-
8 cear of clangor-
milo broad in its
fatlionis. I^otthk
1,, Wt'Ht side, but
as of a milo. Kelp

of tho clianuol, ii<

onnpcts Ship Chan-
iks and ruefs. and
ued to roconimend
li part vary from 2«
istor of ro.ks about
hor the sea breaks

,f small extent, and
,f rocks 2 cables in
ibovo high water.
It of Barclay Sound,
ion, running parallel
tniiusula. Its South

1 bays ; the northern
, rises gradually to a
Idor of which, Mouul

«, and there is secure
itrance to the head.
f the entrance of tho
nd rocks, about a mile
ide, which completely
des westward of their
ve high water,
and Amphitrite Toint,
e westernmost passage
appears to be the best
n seaward.

r.mdinfl Point, on the South side of the ITcluelet arm, cnblos witliin Iho
rntranco, is holii and steep-to. At Leading Point the breadtli of the arm
(■ontracts to a cable. Stnrnrt lUvj, on the North hide, liulf a niih) within the
entrance, is 2 cables deep, and half a mile wide. In itn (entre is a rock
awash at high water, and the bay is too shallow to afford andiorage. There
is a native village of considerable si/o in its We.st purt. Vlntvnrl. Isld. in
the middle of the arm about 2 miles within the entranen, and a mile past
Leading Point, is small ; between it and tho latter is good imcliorago in
from T) to 9 fathoms.

To tho westward of Thnnnel Islet tho arm b.M'omes wider, .affording good
anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms, over a space one milo long and half a milo

wide.

There iire several channels loading into tho Ucluelet arm, with apparently
deep water through them, but there are so nuiuy rocks ami dangers in tlieir
vicinity, tliat even with tho ehart groat vi-ilanco on the part of a stranger is
recommended, and it would hardly be advisable to enter without a pilot.

The Coast from Amphitrite Point takes a W. by N. direction for 17 miles
to Point Cox. It is low, and indented by two large sandy bays, which afr.)rd
no shelter. Wreck Bay, 4 miles westward of Amphitrite Point, is nearly ;i
miles wide, and 1 mile deep. It is totally untit for anchorage. A Peruvian
vessel, tho Flonntia, was wrecked hero in December, 18«().

Long Bay, 8 miles westward of Amphitrite Point, is 7 miles wide, and
upwards of a milo deep, with from 8 to II fathoms between the entranto
points. Thoro are several rocks within it, and no vessel ought to anchor

hero.

Portland Point, the N.W. extreme of Long Pay, is high and abrupt,
with some small rocks and islets around it, at a di.stanno uf half a mile.
(JowUand Hocks, U mile W.S.W. from it, are of small extent, bare, and
from 10 to 15 feet above high water. They ought not to bo approached

neai-er than a mile.

CIAYOftUOT SOUND comprises a number of inlets, islands, and rocks,
covering an area 30 miles long in a westerly direction, and lU broad. Tho
entrance to it is fringed by numerous dangerous rocks, which rcquir.. due
caution to avoid ; it lies between Cox and Sharp Points, bearing from each
other W. by N. f N. 21 miles, and is distant 20 miles W. by N. from Bai--
clay Sound, and 66 miles W.N.W. from Cape Flattery lighthouse.

There are several channels into the inner waters of this sound, biit with
the exception of Ship Channel, they ought not to be attempted by a

stranger. , , .

It is high water, full and change, in Clayoquot Sound at 12 hours, the

rise and fall being about 12 feet.

POINT COX, at the S.E. extreme of Clayoquot Sound, is rocky, and may
bo approached to half a mile. A remarkable summit, Vargas Com; 4ii'>

■!; l t ^tim ' - ' > ' ^P^*'i^ ' ^^'^ ~

.j.,.2 VANiUlIVKll ISLAND.

f(...t hiKh, risoH juHt within the point, and \s very conspicuous from tlio

westward.

Templar Channel, tho enHtevn ontrnnco of the Hound between Low Po-
ninHuk on tlie East, and Leonurd, Wakonnoiiish, and Stnhbs Islands on tho
West, is a winding passaR.- ahout 4 mih^s long, in u N.N.W. diro.tion, with
an nveraf,'o breadth of half u mih«. No vossol drawing nioro than 12 feet
water ought to attempt to enter this sound by this channel, and not oven
then witliout a pilot, as it is very intricate, and no directions can be given.

Broken Channel, between Wakennenisii and Vargas Islands, to tho
westward of tho former. Is upwards of 2 miles h)ng in a northerly direction,
and half >i u.ile wide in its narrowest part, with from 6 to 15 fathoms water.
Several rocks lie off its entrance, and on both sides. Tho tide runs through
from 2 to 5 knots, and no vessel ought to use it without a pilot. McKoi/
1M\ lying off tho entrance, 4 miles W. by N. from Cox point, is of small
extent, and 5 to H) feet above high water ; the sea generally breaks heavily
over it. Two-thirds of a mile North of this reef is tho Pamuje Rock, which
covers at high water.

Vargas Island, on the West side of Broken Channel, is U miles long, A\
at its broadest part, and its surface is low and undulating. On the eastern
side, near the middle, is a native village called Kelmnart ; and at half a
mile from tho South shriro, running parallel to it, is a chain of smaU islets
and rocks called the Hugged group.

Ship Channel, to the westward ol Vargas Island, between it and a num-
ber of small islands and rocks, is the only passage into Clayoquot Sound
which ought to be attempted by a stranger. Its entrance lies nearly 1 1
miles westward of Cox Point, and the channel is 5 miles long in a N.N.E.
direction, with a breadth varying from three-quarters to li mile. The
soundings in the South part vary from 20 to 22 fathoms, decreasing to 5i
fathoms in the shoalest part near the North end. Tho tide runs through it

from 1 to 2 knots.

Bare Met, at the S.E. entrance point of the channel, is small, rising to a
summit 40 feet high in tho centre, and forms a good mark for identifying
Ship Channel. A rock which breaks lies 5 cables E. by S. from it, but there
are 20 fathoms within half a mile of its S.W. side. Plover Reefs, on the
East side of the channel half a mile N.W. of Bare Island, are of considerable
extent, stretcliing 1 mile from tho West side of Blnnden Island, and some
parts are 6 foot above high water. UohU and Burgess Islets lie at the N.E.
part ol the channel, 2 cables from the West side of Vargas Island, and
nearly connected with it at low water.

Sea Otter Roch lies at tlio S.W. entrance point of Ship Channel, 2 mika
AV. bv N. from Bare Islet. It is very small, and only 6 feet above higii
water. Shark Reefs, some of which cover, others 6 feet and 10 ft. above high
■water, lie ou tho West side, 2 miles N.E. by N. of Sea Otter Eock. They

U0U8 from tlm

woen liow Pp-
IhIiukIh on till)
diroction, witli
■0 thun 12 I'eet
, and not oven
can be given.
InlandH, to the
;horly direction,
fathoms water.

runs throuffji
, pilot. McKoji
oint, is of smnll

breaks heavily
uje Rock, which

if miles long, 4^^
On the eastern
; and at half a
a of small islets

1 it and a mim-
;:!layoquot Sound
ce lies nearly 1 1
3ng in a N.N.E.

li mile. The

iecreasing to 5i

runs through it

nail, rising to a
: for identifying
rom it, but there
vcr Reefs, on the
e of considerable
sland, and some
« lie at the N.E.
rgas Island, and

Channel, 2 milta
feet above higii
10 ft. above high

ter Eock. They

f'LAYOCitJOT SOTTND— MI:A!?KS ISLAND.

343

are about ■'! cables in extent, and should not bo approachod mmrcr than 2
<;able8 on thoir SoutJi and Kiwt Hides.

Liwrmct' h/rfs, on the West side, nearly .'t mih-s from Sea Otter I?ock, nro
.small, low, and wooded, liartktt Mini/, half a milo to tlio westward of tlio
Lawrence Islets, is low and wooded ; its Mhonis are much broken, uud ouglit
not to be approadiod witiiin a quarter or half a milo.

Hecate Passage, to the N.E. of and connt>cfing Ship Channel with the
inner waters of the sound, is ;{ miles long in an E.N.E. diroction betwp.n
Vargas Island and tlie main shore of Vancouver, and upward.s of a milo
wide, Tlicie are sovoral rocks on both its shores, and a sand-bank in its
centre, but to the southward of the bank along the North shore of Vargas
is a clear passage with not less than fti fathoms.

Ifalf-tidf Ruck, off the S.W. point of Hecate I'assago, and 2 cables from
Vargas Island, is of small extent, covers at half-llood, and may bo approached
to 1 cable on the outside.

The Cat-face Mountains, rising on the main shore of Vancouver and front-
ing the iShip Channel, are a remarkable tlat-topped range, nearly 3,000 feet
liigh, with some patches of cliH' ond bare rock on thoir South hide. Thoy
are very conspicuous from seaward.

Beep Pass, between two islands at the N.E. part of Hecate Passage, is
about 3 cables long and li cable wide, with 9 fathoms water, and is the
best channel loading from Hecate Passage into the inner waters. The tide
runs from 2 to 3 knots through it. Hecate Ray, 2 miles North of Deep Pass,
on the West shore, is 6 cables wide and 3 cables deep, with from 9 to 10
fathoms. It is clear of danger, and one of the best anchorages within the
sound, being easy of access, and well sheltered. There is a stream of fri ih
water in the middle of the bay, very couvenitmt for watyring

Observatory Islet, at its North point, is 35 feet high, and bare. It is in
hit. 49° 15' 22" N., long. 125" 56' 10' W.

Cypress Bay, on the main shore of Vancouver, and 4 miles North of Deep
Pass, is nearly 2 miles in extent, with from 12 to 26 fathoms. There is good
anchorage in 12 fathoms near its North part, at a distance of half a mile
from the shore, it is open to the southward, but no sea rises. Mussel Rock
lies 4 cables off the East shore of the bay, and half a mile N.N.W. ^ W. of
the East extreme. It is of small extent, and covers at three-quarters flood.

Meares Island, within the eastern part of Clayoquot Sound, adjacent to
and N.E. of Vargas Island, is 6 miles extent in a northerly and 7 miles in
an easterly direction. Its shores, except on the North side, are high and
rugged, and there are several summits on the East and West sides upwards
of 2,000 feet above the sea ; one on the latter side, named Lone Cone, is 2,331
feet high, and very conspicuous from seaward near the entrance of Ship
Channel. An extensive inlet runs nearly through the island from the South
side to North, and there are several other bights and bays.

Deception Channel, between Meares and \'argas Islands, is about 3 miles

■-Ill

YANnoiIVKIl ISl-ANli

loii^ Nortli ami S,iiitli, niitl Imll' ii miln widu, with irri'Kular soimdinKM fmm
.'i to 20 I'mliitins. Tlio titio luim from 'J ti) 6 knots through this tlmniiul, iiiid
II Htrnnp;or hIiouM not iitfi'tn|it itn nftvi^'iilinn.

Rttihic Hail, on thu NW mIiIo of Muiiroh IhUukI, 'i niilim enstwurd of Dfcp
ruRS, is a mile wide, half a mile ducp, und udordR juahoruj^o in fti to in
fathoms ut 2 cal>lo« olf its oasteru shore. The shoros of the hay an> rocky,
but have no outlying dangors.

If wihhing tonnclior in Kitchio Ihiy, and coming from Doep Pass, imicocd
to tho eastward bo as to pass about 1 cable North of Ilobort I'oint, and
koi'ping tho same distance olf tho South shore, steer into the bay, anclioring
in 5 or 7 fathoms about 2 cables from its East side, with the extremes bear-
ing North and 8.W. l W ; entering from tho northward, steer midway be-
tween Surauac Island and the North point oi the bay.

The North shore of Meares Island is low, nearly straight, and steop-to ;
it takes an K. by N. direction for nearly 1 miles, und then turns sharply to
the S. v..

Bedwell Sound, the entrance to whieli is li mile West of Cypress l?ay
and northward of Meares Island, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction.
Tlie shores are high and rugged, rising on the East side to sharp jagged
peaks from 2,000 to -I,, )()() foct above the sea. Itate yarrmrn, East of Bed -
veil Sound, between tho Nortli side of Moares Island and the main, are lA
mile long, and about 2 cables wide in the narrowest part. The tides run
through them from .'i to -I knots. Warn lUiy, to the eastw 1 of Kuco Nar-
rows, and 1 mile from theN.E. part of Ah'.ires Island, is vards of 2 miles
long. The shores on botli sides are high, but low at the i .d, Irom whence
issue several streams, and a sand-bank dries out upwards of a cable.

Fortune Channel, between the East side of Meares Island und tho main,
is 5 miles long, North and South, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to 1 ]
mile ; its shores are high, and there are lioveral oif-lying rocks on its West
side near the middle. The soundings vary from ;50 to 75 fathoms.

JUosquHo Harbour, on the East side of Meares Island, is narrow, and about
2 miles long in a north-westerly direction. There are several rocks and
small islets off its entrance, but it affords good anchorage inside in from 4 to
7 fathoms. The entrance is 1 ^ cable wide, with 1 1 fathoms, and the harbour
is well adapted for a steamer.

In entering Mosquito Harbour, round Plover Point at a cable's distance
to avoid the Ilankin Rock, and keep midway betweou Wood Islands and tho
East shore. A vessel may enter westward of the Wood Islets by keeping
midway between them and the shore.

Dark Island, 7 cables South of Plover Point, on the West side of Fortune
Channel, is small. Some rocks extend a short distance off its West side, but
there is a clear passage between it and the West shore.

Doable Island, 5 cables South of Dark Island, is small and steep-to.
There are 24 fathoms in the passage between it and Me«res Island.

»^t m«Jj > ,lJBi r ^'JMl».:jaJi>-4'i ' >.WIH:"»"««.»' M- ' «W.MJWJ.W1M»WJJ m -.^ • ■ -M'j i --ly-i'-'ia'. .'

'■. .K y .'^uM"^ i »-ttf ^

Ti'FINo IM.IVr n.nlJKS ISl,.\M>.

Mr,

r HOundinKH from
tliiH chunnul, iintl

enstword of l)(^t'|)
ra}j;i> in 'li to lo
te buy am rocky,

oep I'liNrt, [trotfi'd
obort Point, and
lo bay, uncliorinjj
10 extromiiH boiir-
htoor iiiidwuy bo-

^lit, and stoop-to ;
turiiH Hharply to

it of Cypress Hay
irthorly direction.
t« to sharp japgf d
■men, Eawt of Bcd-
tlio niuin, uro lA
t. Tho tides run
(I'd of liuRO Nar-
wards of 2 miles
. id, Iroiu whonto
[)f a cubic,
id and ilio main,
•om 3 cables to 1]
•ocks ou its West
fathoms.

narrow, and uljout
several rocks and
iusido in from 4 to
iB, aud the harbour

; a cable's distance
jd Islands and tho
Islets by keeping

est side of Fortune
f its West side, but

mall and steep-to.
es Island.

Deception Pn.n, at tho Houth flxtn'roo of Fortune (!hnnnt'l, and tunnni ting
it witii 'liiiiiio Iniot mid Itrowiiin^ I'liMHugti, is ii winding clnininl to tlio
iS.S.I-;., aliKUt l.J mile long and 2 iuMoh wide. It is friMi fioni diiiigc' in niid-
chiinnrl, and tln' tidn sets wi'ii consiilorablo Ntrniigth through it.

TOFINO INLET, in tlm ouHtorn part of t^layoquot Sound, i.s about l()
miU'i lung in a iiortlu'rly dinictiDn, and varii's in breadth fmni dut'-hiilf to
l.J mile. Its shiiicH urii high and rocky, indo'ited (ui tho Wont side by winm
largo crocks, and there is no uncli(U'ago, oxcctpt near tho entranco on tho
West side. Jiididn Maud, on the South side of entrance, and half u mile
Pouth-ettHt from Deception Pass, is about a niilo in o.xtent, und stoop-to en
the North nido.

Ham Jslantl, nearly 1 niilo North of Indian Island, off tho West fiidt> el'
tho inlet just within the entrnnco, is upwards of half a mile in e.\teiit, and
8toc[)-to ou all sides, hlanil Cuve, half a mile West of Warn Islautl, is (d'
small extent, with from H to 10 fathomn in tho middle, ami completely land-
locked, (iiinner llarlmur, on the West side of tho inlet, just North of Warn
Island, is li mile long in a N.N.W. direction, but narrow. The harbour
bocomoH shoal towards tho head. Tratn/uil Cnrk, (m the West side of the
inlet, and 1 miles North of Warn Island, is narrow, and upwards of a mile
long. Tho creek is too deep for anchorage.

Flat-fop Idetx, 3 miles from tho entranco of tho inlet, and '-'.J cables from
its West shore, are steop-to on tho East side, there being 47 fathoms at a
cable's distance from them. Northward of these islols the inlet takes a
•winding direction to tlie mirthwurd. On tho Hast side of Toiifio Inlet, 4
miles from the entrance, is a stream of consideruble size, said to communi-
cate with an extensive lake.

Browning Passage, on the South side of Moares Island, connecting Tofino
Inlet with Templar Channel, is A miles long in a westerly direction, and
let than half u mile broad. Its East end is only l.J cable wide ; there are
several rocka off the West entrance, and no stranger, except with a small
vessel, should attempt it.

North Channel, to the westward of Ship Channel, and separated from it
by a number of small islands and rocks, runs along the S.E. side of Floros
Island in a north-easterly direction. It is 4 miles long, and half a mile wide
in tlio narrowest part. Both sides of the channel are bordered by innume-
rable rocks, and it is not recommended for a stranger to use it. Tho sea
generally breaks heavily along both sides of its outer part.

Flores Island, in the western part of Clayoquot Sound, between North
Channel and Sydney Inlet, is nearly 7 miles in extent, and of a square shape.
It is low on the fc}juth and East sides, but high on the North and West,
rising in some places to 3,000 feet. The .shores are rugged and broken,
and there are several off- lying rocks along its South and West sides. As a
rule its outer part ought not to be approached nearer than 2 miles, liafael
J'oiitl, iho South extreme of Eloreis, is cliffy, aud of moderate height. Some

rtir,

VANCOUVER ISLAND.

Iks oxtond 2 cables otf it, and the point ought not to be roundel within
atrmile From tl.ence the West coast of the island turns suddenly to
^N N ^; and continues in that direction for 7 .iles, be.ng .nd.nted by
several small bays.

Sydney Inlet, at the West end of Clayociuot Sound, is 10 mdes ong m
aN W by N. direction, and varies in breadth from a half to 1 m, e^ I^
a N.W. t)y i j^ w by N. from Rafael Point, between the West side

entrance is 3J miles JN w . oy i ^^^

■ , , ,wwrf..t ThB de»l]> in the entrance is 15 Moms, mc™«eii,g
2,000 and 3,000 feet /^'^ "3' „^„ ,, „„ .„„h„„ge. SW ^~'. ""»
rw";r:ttt:r "e, m.. .nd e.^. e.„e„e c, C,.,0.„o.
JndJ. W and »cky. and »ay he a„„roaohed to a caW,-. d,..anc^

^^, C0,e i, in.t West e, Bh^n. ^^::-^'Z:Cl
;"'"rt:rei:':n lrgood'anoho™.e in ..e5f..>.on.. ..

T , ithTn L entrance, well .heltered. and .ecnre from all w,»d.,
Ulfamde ^,tb n the en r • ,^„^ ^ „„„„, j,

'''»"^'' 7"""'''' °r ;;;';>,; S.W. of the entrance, and three-
,l„.rter. of « ■"" ,;,,„. ^ ,„ii„g ,o„el, if embayed near

:•:;;:< t ^:twou.d ... »fety and „*, in Hefn.e Cove.

Sielter Am taanche. off from the Ea.t side of Sydney Inlet to the N.E
, Z Wl. side ot Flores I.land for 5 miles, and then take, a N.lv b,
»'°°8«1'»'^»'* 7''° .„,„„<,„! the eame distance, terminating m a
''• '""^ruTthe ..rr i. ..L.. o< ^.U . mUe wide, ,0 mile, long,
narrow -»*"'*"''" f,„„ ,„ .J ,„ fathom, in the South part. There ,s
and the »,i.nd.ng» '"? """ J" „,, ^u,,;, s|,e entrance on the

»"\°-."'tK:::'t«nT as^lll P.a.. -med .„»,. C«. T,„

r^ oT Shi A- - «■• p-^^^-- "^ r-'°. ": * ™"'

r , , A l,„„te thronsh it, the flood stream from the westward.

iron. 1 to i knots thronj, . ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ „,,

««"*»;«'- ■;;: ;^^^^^ ras. is about 2 miles in extent, and

^fo 1 Us shore, are rocky and broken. B.t, P.. on ite South
!°„, rl'^t, about li mile long. - ffllod with r„k., .0 that no ve«,l
could get through it. . • i ,

North Arm. between the East side of Flores Island and the main, is abou
NortU Arm, aivoction, and its breadth is nearly 1 mile, its

? Til in the South part, but doeroase gradually to the southward.

.hores are 1"^!-- ^^! \.^^ ^^ ,„ 3 f.^homs abreast Base Point.

A vessel may anchor mhom ^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^

.-■jtjgL ^m-mM^

IIKSQUIAT IIAIJUOUK.

347

to be rounded within
ad turns suddenly to
1, being indented by

, is 10 miles long in
a half to 1 mile. Its
etweon the "West side
les Irom the head are
ling North, the other
■uptly from the sea to
5 fathoms, increasing
ge. Sharp Point, the
extreme of Clayo(iuot
cable's distance,
aparated from Pydnpy
iN.N.W. direction, is
e in 4 to 5 fathoms at
secure from all winds,
ce, though narrow, is
e entrance, and three-
above high water, but
essel, if embayed near

I Eefuge Cove.

dney Inlet to the N.E.,
d then takes a N.E. by
anco, terminating in a
ile wide, 10 miles long,
) South part. There is
bin the entrance on the
led Steamer Cove. Tlie
teep-to. The tide runs
:ho westward.
, and separated from the
t 2 miles in extent, and
Rocky Pass, on its South
rocks, BO that no ve.sf^ol

d and the main, is about
th is nearly 1 mile. Its
lually to the southward.
Base Point,
abreast the entrance to

II a S.S.E. direction, but

useless as an anchorage, liase Point, tiie S. W. entrauco point to North Arm,
is low and sandy, and there are from 2 to U fathoms at a cable's distance

from it.

Herbert Ann, the entrunco .o which is ou tlio East side of Nortii Arm,
about 2 miles from the South entrance of the hitter, is 9 miles long, in a
northerly .lircction, and its average br adth is about 1 mile. The shores are
high, mountainous, and much broken; and there is no anchorage, except nt
the South part of its entrance. Cotie Mand, lying at the entrance of this
arm, is about 1 mile in extent, 1,000 feet high, and stecp-to on the Soutii
and West sides, but the passage into Herbert Arm North of it is blocked
lip by rocks and small islets. Baivdvn Buy, on tlu' South sj.de of entrance of
Herbert Arm, aiul about U mile 8.E. of Cone Island, is of small extent, and
affords anchorage in 15 fathoms, near the centre ; enter it in mid-chauni>l.
White Pine Cove, on the East side of Herbert Arm, nearly 3 miles from i\w
entrance, is small, with a bank running off "le head ; a small vessel may au-
clior close to the edge of this bank in about 10 fathoms.

DIRECTIONS.— Entering Clay(jquot Sound b- Ship Channel (which latter
wiU easily be recognised by Bare Islet, Sea Oiior IJock, and a remarkable
summit inland, the Lone Cone), round eith' r Bare Isli^t or Sea Otter Kock
at the distance of half a mile, and steer up the channel with the Twins
Islands in line with the North summit of the Cat-face Mountains, bearing
N.N.E. J E. Keep the above-mentioned mark on till within half a mile of
the Shark Eeefs, when haul more to the eastward for the West extreme of
Vargas Island, which may be rounded at a di.stanco of 3 cables. If going
on through Hecate Passage (page 343) into He('ate Bay, to eloar Ilalf-tidi-.
Pock keep Hobbs isLt open West of Burgess islet S. by AV. J W. until the
Twins come in line with the West Whaler Island W. by S., when steer
up the passage with that mark on astern, which will lead North of llaU-
tide Rock and South of the North Bank. When past the latter, stet.r
through Deep Pass, and anchor in Hecate Bay midway between its entrauco
points '1 9 or 10 fatlunns.

During heavy south-westerly gales the stia is said to break right across
Ship Channel, between Lawrem.'o and Hobbs Islands.

Although there are several apparently dcsop channels into Clayofpiot Sound
they are, with th>i exception of Sliip Channel, so tortuous, and tilled with
rocks, that no strangor should attempt to enter by any. Intending to navigate
the inner waters of the sound, which can only be done by a steamer or snmll
craft, the chart wiU be found the best guide.

HESGUIAT HABiJOUE, 8 miles westwaid of the West part of Clayoquot
Sound, is fornu'd at the bottom of the bay on the East side of Estovan I'oint.
It is 4 miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its breadth at the entrance is
upwards of 2 miles, opening out a little inside, but on nearing the head it
contracts to less than a mdo. The soundings within the harbour vary from

;,,n VANCOUVER ISLAND.

4 to H fathoms, and tliMv is a pood secure anchora^'e in 7 or 8 fathoms at tlio
rlistaiicc" of half a inih> from the liead ; aoroas the entrance, between Hos-
•luiat Bluff and Estevan Point, is a sort of bar or ledge, about 3 cables wid..
with 4 fathoms water over it, which in a great measure prevents the sea from
setting home into the harbour. Kelp grows more or less aU over the auchor-
iige in a depth of 5 fathoms.

Hesquiat Wuff, the East entrance point of the harbour, is a remarkable
low wooded point with a shingle beach around it ; a reef, which covers at
a quarter flood, lies half a mile S.W. of it.

The shores of the harbour are generally low and wooded, and within the
entrance at a distance of 2 cables dear of danger. At the head on the East
side is Boat Basin, a smaU cove with 4 fathoms. Th(u-e is a large fresh-
water stream there, and vessels may wood and water with groat facility.

On the West side of the bay near Estevan Point are several indications of
coal, and the land is apparently fertile.

Directions. -He^piiat Harbour is easy of access to sailing vessels even
with a foul wind. In entering either from tlio East or West, give the outer
jihores of the harbour a berth of more than half a mile, till past the bar, after
which tlu>y may be approached to 2 cables : anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms near
the centre i<i the harbour, about half a mile from the heat..

In strong South or south-westerly gales the sea breaks heavily over the
bar, but the anchorage is always safe, and lauding is at al times prat^ticable

in Boat Basin.

The natives though friendly arc Tuuch inclined to pilfering, and should ho

carefully watched.

ESTEVAN POINT, ITj miles AV. i N from Kafael Point, and 92 nules
W by N. from f'ape Flattery, is a low wooded and projecting point. A
hMlgo a mile wide extends nearly I mile off its 8.W. side ; and U n'il« off
shore, and nearly ;J miles West of the pitch of the point, is the ^undaif Hock.
Hole /» the Wall, the South part of the point, nuiy be easily known by a
remarkable gap in the trees at us extreme, which is (conspicuous fi-om the

S.W.

In rounding the West part of Estevan Point, it would not be prudent to

approach the shore within 2 miles.

From this point the coast takos aN.N.W. direction for 8 miles toEscalante
Point at the entrance of Noo. a Sound, being low, and foul ground exists off

it for some distance.

NOOTKA SOUND.— This celebrated place was, until 1789, supposed to be
on the continent of Ame-ica, but the discovery of its insular character de-
prived it of the great importance previously attached to it.

It was named by Captain Cook, who came hither in his last and dis-
astrouB voyage. King George's Hound, but ho afterwards found that it was
called Nuotka by the natives, and hence by that name it has over since been

NOOTKA SOUND.

.il't

8 fathoms at til o
, between 11 cs-
iiit ;{ cables wiib'
ents tbo sea from

over the auohor-

18 a remarkable
which covers at

, and within the
head on the East
) is a largo fresh-
^•roat facility,
ral indications of

iling vessels even
■st, give the outer
^,ast the bar, aftor
ir 8 fathoms near

heavily over the
times practicable

ig, and should be

int, and 92 iiiiles
(jecting point. A
; and U mile ofl'
3 the SSiinddi/ Rock.
easily known by a
spicuous fi'om the

not be prudent to

known. It is stated, however, that no word more nearly resembling Nuotka
than Yukuatl, or Yitquot, he name applied to Friendly Oovo. hu.i since been
found.

It (lommuniiates with the Pacific by two openings, tho southern one ol"
which is ]>robably the Port Ban Lorenzo, in M'hich tho Spanish navigator,
Ensign Juan I'erez, was, withliis ship, the Santiago, August 10th, 1774 (Si.
Lawrence's day). Uo had been despatched by the Mexican vict»roy to survey
and take possession of those lands.*

Cook had heard that a Spanish expedition had been hither, and the fore-
going fact was confirmed by the former purchasing from the natives two sil-
ver table-spoons apparently of Spanish make, one of which was worn as an
ornament, and had probably been stolen from the Santiago.

From tho accounts contained in Cook's voyage of the furs procured here,
several vessels were fitted out from the East Indies to take advantage of tho
enormous profits they afforded. Tho earliest of these appears to be that of
James Ilaniui, an Englishman, under Portuguese colours, who reached
Nootka in April, 178.'). He repeated the voyage in l78G, but then he Iiad to
compete with others, Capts. T.owrio and Guise, in two small vessels from
Bombay, and Capts. Moares and Tipping from Calcutta, ail under the East
India (Jompany.-j-

It was in the prosecution of this trade that Capt. Meares stated that he
had purchased a tract for the erection of a house and factory in Nootka
Sound, which subsequently led to very serious results. Tho Spaniards had
claimed, by right of a papal bull, dated 1493, the whole of these countries,
and also by tho subsequent right by discovery ; but they had not erected any
fort, or in any other way taken possession of it. In consequence of the
orders, or tho misunderstanding of them, from the Spanish government, the
Iphigenia was taken possession of by Est(>van Martinez, who had accompa-
nied Perez in 177-1, and who had been sent hither to assert and maintain this
claim. The Argonaut, under Capt. Colnott, was subsequently seized, and the
cai)tain sent a prisoner to San Bias, he sufl'ering from dolirium or insanity in
I onsequence. From this and other matters tho respective governments warmlj'
took up tho cause, and the consequences were some warlike preparations.

; miles to Escalantc^
il gi'ouud exists ofl'

'89, supposed to bo
iular character de-

i his last and dis-

found that it was

has over since been

• Of this voyage no account appeared until 180'2, when a short notice of it was piven
in tho Introduction to the Journal of the Sutil and Mexicana. A more perfect notice
from some Spanish 51SS. will be found in Greenbow's History of Oregon, &c., pages
114—116.

t Tho accounts of these fur trades between 178.5 and 17H9 will be found in the Nar-
rative of tho Voyage of tho Ship Queen Charlotte, by her Captain, Jolin iJi.xon, or rather
t>y her Supercargo, Boresford ; tho Narrative of the Voyage of the Ship King Georye, by
Cupt. Nathaniel Portlock ; and the Narrative, before quoted, of the Voyages of Cnpt. John
.Meares.

gj.,Q VANrOUYEll ISLAM).

whi.h oo.t EnRlancl three millions .torling, i.ut which wove quieted by the
t^ t!^Ln of Octohev, 1790, by which the South Heas were opened
r itiH "nterprise. The rrepar.tiou of these fleets, however, was n..t
^;^::™riults. They did .ood serviee afterwards, as Lord Howes
victory was Kained by them four years hiter.

vllver was subsequently sent to recover possession of these lancK b
did ^o hen sneeeed as ho intended, the Spaniards havm, erected a fort here,
a^ t I'^ession still remained undecided. In 1818, Spa. conclude a
"etywthAnu-riea, in which she ceded all her possessu,ns ,..uth ol la.
42 N to the former power, leaving the northern part as ,t had be n. Ih s
m^l was reneJed in 1827, and the whole question was dehn^.vely sct-

"i^t^: :;r: —refined t^s important inlet was our .re.

circumnavigator, Cook. ^ <• u ;„ i »io nnd it was

Sir Fdward B.>lcher visited and surveyed a part of it m 1839, and it was
bir Jvh\aiauiiiii»i ij;f,i,o-,is in II U.S. Plumper, m

taimng several »f "f.«'/"'^ ^'7,f -"""^^^^^ ,, ^.n-s respectively. Its en-

rtiX^X^r:! E;Iiar l^nts, W. 1;N. , N. and E. by

rr r nTl Sr and distant 4 miles ; at the entrance the shores arc

L and have several otT-lying dangers, but within they become high, rugged

and precipitous, and are everywhere free from danger.

lie s undings at the entrance vaiy from 40 to 60 fathoms, deepening wi h-

• T l^d to upwards of 100 fathoms in many places ; to the sr.uthward ol

in the sound to ^^''^'''' ' ^^^ ^^^.^^^^^ ^^j Escalante Points,

theentrance, and extending 6 miles west oi .„ fi,« s W In

!t v'il b,. found In fino w™.h»r tl« naliv™ will l-e met >v..h in c.no«.,

'"Co :::t.:' -:;,;,.- m .h. »n...,, ... .< .m.., «..,„«, r„v,. a,„i

r.™.Ttel,„«v on .1,0 E..i -ido of Nootka I.l.nd, ar, .„»1 . ...oash »
llamroi 11 ,1,. forraor is one, and the latter 7 miles mtliin llie

:rr ;h:'::ri;tXan.A™.,twi. ..u -te™., .. mo.

. V • „ 1 1 onfl 1 fi miles from the entrance.
'°~r::: :. n ' l^etr of tl.e land near ..e e„t„noe of the .-
„,r!"^o Znavigator ,1, -triking feature, wWeh in «no weather render
„ft»r« to me „ „i,taken The low land of Estevan and Maqmn-

lt:;:TZ "tl^:..".- --^^ o. .hem thoN».ka cone ».
2;Z ,.oin. of Nootkn Island, and if coming fron, the ?o„lh or S.bA\ ..

quietpd liv the
IS wore oponed
wover, was nut
IS liord I1<iwh's

these lands, but
■et:tod a fort liere.
)ain I'oufluded ii
ns South of hit.
had boon. This
i definitively st^t-

Bt was our groat

1839, and it was
VI. S. Plumper, in
y that officer.
IS in extent, eon-
; narrow amis pe-
lectively. Its en-
N. i N. and E. hy
I '8 the shores arc
(!ome high, nigged

s, deepening with -
othe southward of
Escalante Points,
rto the S.W. In
■ire from 20 to 27
iland 40 to 00 fa-
met with in canoes,
)ut, which are very

Friendly Cove and
small, though easy
7 miles within the
sheltered, are more

itrance of the sound
ine weather render
Istevan and Maquin-
the Nootka Cone at
e South or S.S.W.,

NO ITKA SOUND-FTUENDLY (^OVE. .SAI

Conuma Peak, a remarkable steeple-shaped mounttiin, nearly 5,000 ft. higli
is a most conspicuous feature.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in Nootka Sound, at 12\ and
the rise and fall is about 12 feet. The tidal streams arc evtn-ywhere incon-
siderable.

ESCALANTE POINT, the East point of entrance of the sound, is low and
rocky ; some islets, and rocks generally above high water, extend off it in a
westerly direction for npwards of a mile. From Escalanto Point to Ibird-
wood Point, at the narrowest part of entrance on the East side, the coast,
V hich still keeps a N.N.W. direction for ;3 miles, is bordered by several otf-
lying rocks.

MAttTIINNA POINT, the West entrance point of the sound, is 13.} miles
N.W. of Estevan Point, and 4 miles W. by N. i N. from Escalante Point ; it
is low and wooded, and at its extreme is a remarkable bare-toppetl conical
ror.k about 60 or 70 feet high ; some rocks extend 3 cables off it in an easterly
direction, also along the coast from it to the eastward nearly as far as the en-
trance of Friendly Cove, and the shore ought not to be approached nearer
than three-quarters of a mile till near the latter place.

Bajo Eeef, 6 miles S.W. by W. i W. from Maquinna Point and 2| miles
off shore, is about 2 cables in extent, and only breaks in heavy weather.
This reef is the only hidden danger outside the sound, and is dangerous to
vessels entering it from the westward.

FRIENDLY COVE, at the East extreme of Nootka Island, just within the
narrowest i)art of the entrance to the sound, and about 2 J miles N.I<]. of Ma-
(iuinna Point, is about 2 cables in extent, and shelterwl from the sea by a
small rocky high-water island on its East side. The entrance to it is from the
N.E.. and a cable wide, and the anchorage within is in from 5 to 9 fathoms,
of small extent, affording room only for one vessel of moderate size to lie
moored in the middle, though several small ones would find shelter. Tlie
shores on both sides of the cove are rocky and al)out 60 feet high on the N.
side, but at the head is a small space of clear cultivated flat laud, around
which in the summer the natives build an extensive village.

If desiring to anchor in this cove, round Observatory Islet, the East en-
trance point, close to, and if in a largo vessel moor with anchors 8. S.W. and
N.N.E., lotting go the first immediately on entering the cove. Sailing vessels,
unless with a fair wind, would find some difficulty in entering ; and if un-
able to sho )t in, it would be prefembh to warp or proceed further up the
sound to I'luuiper Harbour.

When tho Spaniards were in possession oftliis coast in 1792, Friendly cove
was their principal estab'ishment ; and when Captain Vancouver visited it in
that year, no less than eight vessels were in it, most of them small, and se-
cured to the shore by hawsers. At the i)rosent date no vestige whatever of
the si.. fnieiit remains.

mmme

ggjj VANCOUVKll ISLAND.

J: for about .iloe to tho ent.an.o of ^;;K.n -l^;^^u ^. W -^^^^^
Canal ; it is rocky, and some isV ts run 1--"^^ ''J'^^^J;";;, „„,Horn-
ereeks, with outran.., too narrow for a -^ \ ^J^^^^,, J^ ,,, ,,,,„.t
u.ost of tlu.n, callod by tbo SpamanH l^o a ^ / l^^^J^^.,,,^^ y,i,,,Uy
the North part of the above-mentioned i.land., and If mxle

*^"''*'' . T, 4,nn..HNNW from Friendly Cove, on the East side of
Marvinas Bay, 4 mdes N.N . W . u j southward ; it onlv ftffor.l>

at the head, useless for purposes of nav^f^atum.

X::t a *™',«».n«o into *. l.avbour >.etw„„ .ho ,w„ is,* o,
to ttir., V „l ..t tl,e Lrtl. o„o, whic^ .n»y W K,u„,lod a. a oa,

.„d tl.o« „ "7j',;j; tly.Wbacl- Wi,.sit,.U,tauc.c *„« th.
best anchorage m the souna, luo uixij

"tZs Canal, the entrance to which is at the N.W. part of Nootka Sound
Ju^6mU^f m Friendlv Cove, is a long narrow arm of the sea. nearly
trJ ht,td H miles long in a N.W. by N. direction ; the shores are moun-

Btraigm, a ^^ .^ ^^^ anchorage withui it.

'^^ST^Mvi^ n Ih^ centre of the sound, is the largest island witlun
Bllgh I»l»°*' '^ ^ .^ ^ ^„rtherly direction, and 2 miles widem the

,t,bomgabout m .lou,in J .^^^^^^^^^^, , ,„„,, ....^ks on the

northern part ; ts ^u,re are y, ^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^

southern side, ^^^'^l^, ^^ I ,,J ..a West sides are a
"' t '^:ZJ^^ n-rds of a mile from it. all steep-to on their

:;;: :: t :^g ^^^^^ vessel shouu ......1.. The .ou.h pai. ot

^■i

PLUMPER nARBOUI?.

a.'.;?

itaiuod in liir^;;''

n a N.N.W. di-
nu and Tali-His
)ro are two small
Tlie northern-
no, lios al)renst
ilo from Friendly

I the East side of
rd ; it only affor(l>
aam at the head

s-oen Nootka and
rly direction, and
boat pass to the
part, is Plumper
if this harT)C)ur the
Iwo narrow creel<s

I Arm, and 6 miles

of Nootka Island
in 12 fathoms. U
ets from 30 to 40
ad there are several

1 the two ish>ts, or
ounded at a cable,
r inside ; it is thi>
ts distance from the

lart of Nootka Sound
I of the sea, nearly
the shores are moun-
within it.

largest island -withiri
id 2 miles wide in the
' some creeks on the
it, about 3 miles N.E.
id AVest sides are a
t. all steep-to on their
e. The South part of

the island is rather low, but it rises in the North and West parts to lOOn and

1200 feet.

JtmihUiun Cove, at the S.E. point of this island, just within the entrance of
the Zuciarte Channel, is only deserving of notice as tlu> spot where Captain
Cook refitted his ships in April 1778* ; it is only a slight bend in tiie coast,
with a deep and rocky bott<mi, and inconvenient for an anc;horage, hinng alst)
open to the S.W.

Zuciarte Channel, between the East shore of Nootka Sound and lUi'^h
Island, is ubout .5 miles long in a northerly direction, and upwards of hiilf a
mile wide in tli(> narrowe.st part ; its shores are high and clear of danger, the
eoimdings witliin the channel varying from 80 to 100 fathoms.

Guaquina, or Muchalat Arm, extends 17 miles in an E.N.E. direction
from the N.P]. part of Nootka Sound, and varies in breadth from a quarti r
to upwards of a mile. It is bounded on both sides by mountains from 2,000
to 4,000 feet high, and presents similar features to the inlets before described
along this coast, terminating in low land at the head.

On the North side of this arm, 14 miles within the entrance, is an extensive
valley, through which flows a large stream, named the Gold Eiver, indica-
tions of that metal having been there discovered.

Tlupana Arm, the entrance to which is in the North part of Nootka Sound,
is about 7 miles long in a northerly direction, branching off at the head in
two smaller arms extending to the N.W. and N.E. Its shores are high and
rocky, ani the soundings in it vary from 80 to upwards of 100 fathoms ; there
are two anchorages, one at J)cm-t>:d Creek on the West side, and the other
at Ilcad Ihiy, the termination of the N.W. branch.

The mountains at the North part of this arm are the highest in the
sound, many being from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the sea. Comma Peak,
rising 7 miles north-east from the head, is 4,889 feet high, and of a steeple

shape. ^

DIRECTIONS, -Entering Nootka Sound from the southward, after rouuu-
ing Estovan Point, steer about N.N.W. for the entrance, whidi will be easily
made out by the rocks off Escalanto and Maquinna Points. Keep about 2
miles off the eastern shore till past Escalante Point, when steer up mid-
channel into the sound. If bound to Friendly Cove, haul over to the
West side of entrance for Yu-quot Point, which may be approached to a ca-
ble, and rounding it sharply, anchor or moor, as most convenient, in Friendly
Cove in from 5 to 9 fathoms.

• In the second volume of the account of his last voyiisc thcr,, ,aro givn very ampl. de-
tails of tho people, their manners, appearance, disposition, and resources, wh.eh are
familiar to most. He calculat,.!, of course at a venture, the nunibev of people oeeupyuK
the two vina-08, the only inhui.ited parts of the souud, to be ubout 'A'uOO.

North Pacific.

.j,,^ VANroUVKR ISLAND

■ ' K bouna to rinn^pr TlaH.our. aft., pa.... Yn-.uot ^^nt .^^.out
half a nulo from tho N.K. .ido of Nootka Island on a N-N A • o K by
course for a di.tanc of r, „nlo. to tl.o ..ntvanco ol tho ken.hn . Ann -^ '
stoer up tho latter in «ud-channel till al.oast 1' nnpor '^^^^^'^^^
be entered by passing botweon liold and I'ass .slots ou its hast side or going
to tCrJlIjald of L former; anchor in 11 to 1. fathoms near the centro

^^tuldt;: desired to anchor in any of the anchorages .ithi. the Tlu
pana Arm, if provided .vith the chart, no directions whatever, arc ne-

" Entenng Nootka Sound from the westward, on nearing Bajo Point, do not
ap^oach the South shore of Nootlca Island within 4 miles, or ^^^^
clwithEaJorointN.by W. until Yu-cpot Point comes c,en E s, «
Manuinna Point N.E. i E., which will clear the 13njo Reef, a vessel may
^henTe fo the entrance of the sound, about N.E. by E., not approaching
the shore b3w^ ^^^^^_^^^^ ^^^^ p^^,^^^^ ,,p tho

the westward, keep Yu-,uot Point open East « Maquinna i oint N.E. iE.,
this will keep a ve.sel weU clear to the eastward of Bajo Eeef.

Nool sLd is the easiest place of access on the whole of the TV st
coas of Vancouver Island, the entrance being nearly 2 miles wide m th
ratwestpart; and by attending to the above directions any saihng vessel
innv heat in or out of the sound. j, ■ e

NOOT^ ISLAND, which bounds the AVest side of Nootka Sound, is of
oonsra^e extent, being 15 miles long in a northerly and 20 miles in a
westerly direction. Its South, or outer shore is low, rising gradually inland
; simits 1.500 and 2,500 feet above the sea, and has a beautiful and far
tilo appearance ; it is bordered by a sandy beach nearly the whole distance,
and the sea breaks heavily along it. , i , a

L Point, 6 miles West of Maquinna Point, is low and rocky^ A
led! name the Inner Bajo Rr^, extends U niilo off it in a souheHy
c^recUon; and the Bajo Eeef, described in page 351, hes 2. miles to the

"westward of Bajo Point the coast takes a W.N.W. direction for 10 miles
toll Point, and is slightly indented. A remarkable summit, JU.M
1. 540 feet high, rises 3 miles N.W. by N. from Bajo Point, and is

^^NUCHATLITZ niLET, on the N.W. side of Nootka Island, about 18 miles
W bv N J^ N. from the entrance of Nootka Sound, is 6 miles long in a north-
easterly direction, and 3 miles wide at entrance, narrowing towards the head-
Is shores are high and rocky, and r.uch broken into creeks and smaU bays.
Offthe ntrance and within .u-e several dangers. Ferrer PouU, the South

NTiCnATT.ITZ INLET.

3.).j

oint, Itopp aliout
,\V. or N. by W.
lU-iclc Arm, whoii
•hour, whii;h may
■last side, orgoiiii,'
8 near the centro

3 withir the Thi-
vha.ever, are no-

Bajo Point, do not
, or shut in Biglit
mos open East of
Bef ; a vessel may
;., not approaching
than a mile, until
^■n proceed \ip the
, when standing to
;a Point N.E. iE.,
Eeef.

whole of the West

miles wide in the

3 any sailing vessel

ootka Sound, is of
and 20 miles in a
ig gradually inland
1 beautiful and fer-
' tlie whole distance,

low and rocky. A
fl' it in a southerly
ies 2% miles to the

irection for 10 miles

jable summit, Jiiglit

Bajo Point, and is

sland, about 18 miles
niles long in a north-
ng towards the head-
•eeka and small bays.
■m- Puiiit, the South

cntriince point of the inlet, is low and rocky; Just within th(> point to tin"
eastward is a very remarkaldo conical suiuniit <>■'>[) foct higli, called tlio
Xdii/i-iirsf Cutir, which is nf great use in iiiakiii;i; out tiiis locality from tli(i
westward.

J)<i)i<l<'r liock, lying in the South part of thn entrance, upwards of a mile
N.W. I \V. from Ferrer Point, is the worst danger in entering, as it is of
very small extent, and only breaks in lieavy weather; it is steep-to on all
sides, there b(*ing 11 fatlioms close to it. Tlie best; passage into the inlet is
between tliis rock and F(UT(>r Point. Niiclidtlitz Iterf, in the centre of tlm
entrance and a third of a mile Nortii of tlio Danger Rock, generally breaks,
and at its inner extremity is a small rock awash at higli water ; tliere is a clear
(loop pa.ssage between it and Danger IJock, but it ought not to bo attempted
by a stranger. South Jtci'f, which lies just within the entrance on the Soutli
side, is 1 mile N.E. by N. from Ferrer Point and about 3 cables oil shore ;
it is nearly 2 cables in extent, and covers at Imlf flood.

/''//;: li/iiii(l, in the centre of the inlet, and 3 miles from the entrance, is of
small entent, low, rugged, and covered with a few stunted pine treses, tlu>
tops of which are about 100 feet above the sea. At half a mile West of it
is a small bare rock 20 feet high, and steep-to on the West side, butb(;tw('eii
the rock and Fitz Island foul ground exists. Mir// /Itmiti, the termination of
this inlet, is of considerable extent, and completely land-locked by Lon/
Miind, which lies across the inlet at the S.W. part of the basin ; it has not
been sufhciently examined to recommend its being used by a stranger.

Port Linii/fiird, on the North side of Nuchatlitz Inlet, 2 miles within tho
entrance, is about If mile hnig in a northerly direction, and varies in breadth
from a quai'ter to one mile. The soundings in it vary from .i to 8 fathoms,
and it alforda a secure and well sheltered anchorage at the distance of half a
mile from the head. Within the entrance it is clear of danger.

Colwood Islet, at the S.W. extreme of tho entrance, is small and bare, 20
foot above water.

Directions. — Entering Nuchatlitz Inlet from tho southward, bring Ferrer
Point on a N. by W. bearing, and steer to pass half a mile West of it ; and
when Mark Hill comes on with the North part of Fitz Island N.E. .V E.,
haul in for the entrance on that mark, which will lead in (.'lear of Danger
liock. When Ferrer Point bears South, a vessel will be inside the rock,
and may steer N. by E. J E., or N.N.E. for the entrance to Port Lang-
ford ; pass midway between Colwood Islet and Belmont Point, and proceed
up the port in mid-channel, anchoring in 5 or 6 fathoms, at a distance of half
a mile from the head.

Approaching the port from the westward, keep an offing of 4 or 5 miles,
till Ferrer Point bears East, when steer for it on that bearing till the leading
mark for the channel comes on, Mark Hill in line with tho North part of
Fitz island N.E. i E., Avheu proceed as before directed.

2 \ 1

VXNCOrVKl! ISLAND.
„t N 1,,, I.U„a una ..... ,»..... oi ^"";' ;",■;„. ,„„ i„ , „h„lh.«..»rth.

„„dorato ex...,.., «l...l.. I.»""'™; "t " icLtl. PO..-.'«t» 'l'« V"»»"«"
„„„,.„,„ one .tao. .„,. o^ c„„™do *^^^^ P^^ ^^^^^ ^^__^
shore for BOVoralimlo8niuXN.i>i.>v.
l.,,«K«»,i..K.o,,ly .«*.,,»«. -ih»*o.„-. ^^^^^^.^^

Tl,o ..u..dinB« i" "'" «-™"°' ""^ '" . :

Middle Ctanel, >'■" -*;"■■'' ^'V;!:*; 1 1 .^^^ i.^,-.,.... ,.,.v..

i, al«,.y» ..1...V «•«'»■ ; „,„ „,„„„„,,, „„d 3 n.ilo.

i„in.i M. «■>.;.■ ""VlX't..-^ .•....■.-—'. "■"' "'■'"'"""

N.W. i W. i...... \r7 ,™';, ;ti <.£ ......U oxMt, li..l«<.-.l.W. "f »

in l,.ul «c..U...r. '^«* '•"'' "" " . .„„„ ,4 ,„ 1.5 f,.tli...i.» »t » di»l

at it. S„.,.l. -«-.." . - ™f ;"7„„, K„,„, M,...
„„r.h Channel ■-'" ;°'° ^'f:;:;:/o .1^^^ U i» ab.,„. a .Id-d

::: s,i: ".,:! ' 'n::t.a.u,,.. <» .. >..;y '.- ^ - - — "-'

1. d„„.... .... ..»,w.. * ^ ^"^"-ItL r..... on ..0 w,... .;...

Catala Wand, "S;...1-I--^^J ™. „,„„ ,„„„, i„ . wo,.u.U-

„t .to entrance to '■'l'""""/, ' , , , „,,„ .ll,i, i.laud i» <T.,..ded, a.,d
,V,,„.io.,, a..l .. .."1- «■">" " ;» '"'t .1 ; ty and ..vend d««B-- «»'
„,„„„„ to •2»0,.e. '"'"■• ;';;';7,; a." l.^ N„r.l. .ide i» .e„ar.....l

^ ^tjmit i j w j ' .""i '' ini- ' ntuf- ' '

MSI'ERANZA INLET -KSPIXOSA A KM.

357

inlet, as thoro is
shuviltl iitteuipt to

Don thn N.W. sitlo

! ,nil..s W. l.y N. l

n u winding nortli-

nnrro-AJng at. tho

-i; but within tin-
(.8 to mouiitniiis of
lI by throo buys of
igo; and from tho
rato the Vancouver
western arm, named

fathoms, deepening

Inlet, is 3 miles lonu'

tho narvo\vost part.

t. Tho Wost Bido is

Lloof, a part of which

chanuc-l, and 3 niih'-^
ttjul, and oidy breaks
t, lioa two-thirds of a
, fathoms at a diistimro
ranie point of Middle

gcufrally broakH, and
,igh water. Its t^uulh
t.

• Jdiddlo Reef, between
i. It is about a tliird
;lug at tho North part
,1 17 to '2-2 fathoms, and

roint, on tho West side
uiilo Ion?, in » westerly
is it.laud is wooded, and
.nd sevoriil dangers exist
North side is separated
le wide, named EolUi)|:

"iioadatond, and n vessel may find a tcderably Bocuro anchorage there in from
1 to (') fatlioins, though ;;('ii('rally a swell prevails in it.

Rolling Hoadstead. — Hntraneo Jieef, alioiit ;l ciiMes Nortli of tho Must
pMiiit (dCulala Isiiiud, at the eastern part of h'ollin;^' Jinadstiad, is of siniiU
ixli'iit, mid eovers at lialf Hood. At halfaTuile North of it, and almiit 2
culjles olf tiio opposite shore, lies tho Arnald llitrl;, wliieh is awash at liigli
water. Haifa mile inshore, and overlooking tho N.J'l. part of K'olling lioad-
>tead, is l,iiu\inij Mmintaiit, 1,10 1 foot above tiie s(>a. It is of luuical shapi",
and conspicuous from tho ontranco of the Middin ( 'liannel.

Double Island lies half a mile off tho VVfst shore at the inner and nar-
rowest part of the entrance to Esperan/a Inlet, and 3^ miles within tho
outer part of tho North and Middle (!liannols. It is of small o.xtont, and
wiKided. I'kwer /*/*•/, on tho opposite shore, 1 mile E.S.E. of Double Island,
and half a mile olf the N.W. point of Nootka Island, is small and bare, and
llm norihernniost of tho islets olf Nootka Island between tho entrances of
Nuchatlitz and Esporanza Islets. At 2 cahlos S. W. of it is a small rock 2 ft.
aliovo high water.

Hecate Channel, near tho head of the inlet, is 5 miles long in a winding
direction to tho eastward, and its average breadth is about (;ablo8. TLo
western end is 8 miles from tho encranc(> of Esporanza Inlet ; and tho eastern
one, named Tah-nis Narrows, is about a cablo wide, with 2H fathoms, and
connects this channel with the Tah-sis Canal in Nootka Sound. Tho shores
are high and rocky, and may bo approached closo-to.

Port Eliza, tho entrance to which is on tho North sido of the inlet, 1 milo
N.E. of Double Island, is a narrow arm 5.J miles long in a N.W. direction,
and its breadth varies from 2 to 4 cables. Thoro is good anchorage in from
14 to 15 fathoms at the distance of half a milo from the head. Tho head
terminates iu a small patch of low swampy land.

Ilarhour Island, in the centre of the entrance, is of moderate height. Tho
passage into Port Eliza on its East side, througli Jtiriluhiy Channd, is 2 cables
wide in the narrowest part, and clear of danger. Between Harbour Island
and the West shore lies Fiilse Channel, which has irregular soundings, and
in its South part are two rocks which cover at half flood. Chanml PvcW lialf
a milo N.N.W. of Harbour Island, in the nuddlo of I'ort Eliza, is about a
cable in extent, and covers at throe-quarters flood.

Queen^s Cove, on the East sido of the port, about 1 J milo from the entrance,
is 4 cables long and 2 cables wide, with from 6 to 7 fathoms water, and
affords room for a large vessel to lie mooi-ed in tho centre. Its shores aro
high and rocky. The cove is completely land-lockt'd, and cnly half a cablo
wide at the ontranco.

Espinoza Arm, tho entrance to which is 2 miles N.E. of Port Eliza, is 8
miles long in a N.N.W. direction, and its average breadth is half a mile.
Tho soundings within it aro deiip, and it all'ords no uucliorago ; at tlio

VANCurVl.li ISl.ANll

"'" II i-l,.!, ,111.1 » hkU wliicli unoovcT.

,.,„r,.c. >-^v,.t-i.-. "•»';;;:''■.;,;..■» w..i '■■

Zrtallo. Arm. M... .....ra.."' '■ "'",'',„;,„.,„„„ i„ ,> «ii..li"K 'li"-

::■".'" •''';::"^',,;;;': ■:::::::«..»' '• "•"' ^"""

Ks|iinoza Arm, h "n

Direction..-A .trun.^T -^'''''^^V' '",,,,,,, in Port Kli.t, .houKl

L.„rH. till ---,« th.- .n,n.n... "^ ^';^!^;^'^; ,hicU.mioad through
,.aain. Uill in lino w. ^^"^^j,^^ .f tho d n.! Wh.u

th. South voiut of Culala Inlaml l-ars ^V .V . ^ ^^^^^_^^^ ^^j, ,..„,

l..,..« at ontranco. and ^J'^"' _ 2:^: '^;^,: j, U In ..nte.in^ tl.e

Eli/a. IHiHsin,' f'-""^-'"''"''' ' , ' ,,i„. a cable East of Ilavbouv
^,.,,1. through lUHUaay ^'' -" ['/ :\:,, .,..ut N.W. by N- i„r
liana; ^vb.u v>>st tho Ea. j>.ut o^^ ' ^ ,.,,>, to av.^i

Channel E..f. In --'j;;; J ^ ; ^^ inside, an.ho. N.W. and S.E.

•r :;^ :::iT;;::;^^ --"- --^ ^° -^^^ "^^ "^^ "

with a steaay fair wind. ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^..f^^o airoctod,

ltboundtoKoUin,Uoadst-d, ntortheiU ^^^^ ^ ^ ^^ ^^

tut in.tead of «teor>n. for the ^^^^^^^^, ^ J.. lUacU EocU),
.,, K. i W. couvHo (l--;^7^- 1^' ; ^. ,v. part of Catala l.land como
.ntil tho outer oxtvenu, oi ^^ ;;^ ^ ^^^^^.^ 1 .^arin, W. by 8.. wh.u
„,,.„ North of tho low gras^J 1 o.ut ^.^^^, ^^^^^^,^^„

A'""" "" . w s W and S.K. by S.

Kntcring E.l..n".» ' ", ' ,„t „;„ be nmd« out, V kon.mS " »1'«"
„>no» torn CuUk '"'""i^; .'?;7 „ „.„1 „ill 1,0 woU oloar of ..y d""'
y^^.^'>r^'^-f'^'^'^;^^'::7^..s^. Un. .W, W«* .io,U

r;; eT^ .:i^:-t-V ,„« o.,„u«k tuo no... a.- ..... *.»

The COAST, »""'t: , ' „ t. u i„dc„.od by two ™..l »....«;
,»lmly di.™.'"" f'' "1"'""'" "' „t „bi,,, „,u,„d nearly ^

judob oil s)i'>u.

m!a»-L4-.". Jj.>,- ' vJ-u-:'-:

IIARIMKU ISIANDS KYl'iil.t'T SOUND

,1J0

lin tho inltt, at

Siiuiliir tti tin'
,f uo UHi' to tin;

V tho Houtliwiinl,
•ort Klizii, HhoiiM
v\) oil II Iinlllu'vly

on Htoor to briii;^
^s■iU Iniid throii'p'li

diaiiiK'l. NVli>'"

1 wilHio iiitsiilt^ ''li"

cntranco of I'ort

lu filtering Ui>i

Hiisl of llavbouv
utN.W. byN. I'T
.rn shovi', to ftVoia
of tho islaud at its
h„'hN.W. uudS.K.
r I'ort Eliza uuk^s

d1 aa bfforo dirnctoil,
:eop ouaN. by \V.
last of IMack ltotUj>
f Catala Island conio
iringW. byS.,wlu'u
(ud midway botwceii
vlth the extremos of

an oiling of 2i or :'.
;, by keeping it open
'oll dear of nny dun-
ino with Black Kock
fth Channel with this

of tho Nuehatlltz ami
mpt to enter or leave

ind.

chu Point, runs in a

id by two small sandy

which extend nearly 'J

lie a short distanto tu

tho southward of it, and tli(>re Ih ii nativn viilay[<> of con-*id»riiblo m/« nt
li:i!f a mile Halt of it. /■.'/izn /him; n roinarkable Huminit, I'.HlJ tnot
iibovo tlio Hoa, riMUR 1^ mile within tUu ^oint, uud i» vv\y coDHpicuoiis from
seaward.

Kriiiu Tat-diu I'oint tlie coast turns to tho W.N. W f.»r 7 miloH to tlie
entrance (if l\yui|ii(it HomihI, and is insK'Htnad by several small buys, in somo
|i;irts of wliii'h boats may find shelter

BARRIER ISLANDS.— At 2 mile.H westward of Tat-ehu Point is thn
(ommoneemt'nt of a chain of small i.sland.s and reel's bordering tlio toast of
\'aneouver Island for nearly 20 miles in u westerly direction to tl«,,> entrance
et (>ii-ou-Kiiish Iiili't. They extend in some parts as fur .is C) miles olf
shore, and through them "lo two known navigable elninueLs, the Kympiot
nml Halibut, leailing to anchorngos ; the former channel loads into Kyucjuot
Sound, and the latter into (!lan-ninick Harbour, but as a rule no stranger
.should venture info them, or among these islands, //iij/nst Islnml, one of
tin; Ihirrier group, lying 2 miles South of Union Island, is n remarkable
bare rock '.iH fi'ct high, and usi^ful in identifying tho Kyu(iuot Channel.

KYUaUOT SOUND, tho eastern ontrame of wliieh is 12 miles from Espo-
ran/a liilot, is a large broken shoot of water pi'iiotrating from tho coast to
a distance of M or 15 miles inland in two largo arms, and several smaller
ones. There is a largo island at tho entrance, and on either side of it is a
rimnnel into the sound, the eastern one only being fit for large vessels.
There are also several islands within, mostly small ; its shores are generally
reeky, and very much broken, rising within to high im^untuius, 2,000 and
•1,000 feet above the sea.

Tho soundings outside vary from 20 to 40 fathoms, generally sandy bot-
tiim. At the entrance are from 40 to (iO fathoms, but within tho sound tho
depths increase in many places to upwards of 100 fathoms. There are three
anchorages, Narrowgut and Easy Crocks, and Fair llarliour, the two iatter
hei) ■)i considerable size, but at a distance of 13 and 10 miles from the
eutr,.aee ; the former is v(try small, but only .') miles within the sound.

Kyuquot Channel, leads into the sound through the Ihirrier Islands, and
to the eastward of Uni(m Island. It is nearly straight, about 5 miles long
in a N.N.E. direction, and its breadth is little loss than a mile. Tho soimd-
ings within it vary from JiO to upwards of '10 fathoms, inireasing gradually
to the inner part, and a mid-eliannel course through is clear of (hmger.

East Entrance Reef, (lue of the Barrier group lying at the .south-east
extreme of the channel, CiA miles \V. by N. \ N. from Tat-chu I'oint, is
about 2 cables in extent and i feet above high water. No vc-isel sheidd
stand inside it.

Rugged Point, tint S.E. entrance point of Kyuquot ^^ound, is upwards
of 2 miles North of East Entrance lli'cf on the East side of ilio (haunel
It is rugged and rocky, but steeji-to on tlie West side. lietwoon it au<l

VANCOUVEll ISLAND.

"" "" , .rr,„.k, „mo«|r»l.irUmTCB8ol.taiM
,,.„,„ E„l.-™-o -R.-f ■>■ m,ml.«..t,.»U, am t

White Cliff Head, tu-- *''^^-, "'"T ' .„, . ;, ^ „l,„„t 70 fcot lugl., t"™-!

„.„ w..»t u«b, ™i "^'~"V;r :;ii r iff ti>«'» »- »» ■»"'°™ "'"""

U,a,<,«n^^--'^'''y-^'":'"'''^'°^^^^^^^ mn. a rema*.l,lo

:-;t:Jrt:Xr.Ea.*,a„a,..ce.i.ic.^^^

nob just lUHide it. A tolk,

East of it. . ^.,^,. , , o Kvuniiot Chmmol, aiul nearly JH miles

Leading Island, just ^-^^^^^^ ,^ ,, Eu.t and West diroetion,

from White Cliff Head, is about 1 1 uuU, j^ ^^^^^ .^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^

..a balf amile -^:^^^Z;^^^ ^^^^^ between Wbite
tho eentro to a summit 400 ttct Int, , ^^^^ .^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ through

Cliff Head and Bugged Point, ^ . by t.. * .

the fairway of Kyuquot Channel and protecting it fi-em

TJNION ISLAND, in the ^-'^-^'\f2li\ mil s in e.tent. Its surface

..e ocean, is of square sliap. am ^^^^,^,, ,,,

is undulating, rismg m ^^^ ^^^. P ^^^ ^^ ^,^^^ ^^^..d, between

Blind Entrance ^'^^''^'^ f^^l ,,^,^ tortuous channel with some

it and the Vancouver ^^^^'^^/-'^^^ , ^^^ ^^t be entered by a stranger;

termination of the ^p^^^\^''Z:Vu.^^ ^ it vary f-m 16 to 8 fathoms,

. north-eastovly direction. The ^^^ ^^^ .^^ breadth is less than

,,,1 there is only just room to .^^ ^.^^^^ ^^,,,, ,, ,,.

. cable. The cree. is easy '^ - ^^ ^ ^^ ^^^ ^...^vation spot used in

tiou iu 1862 was '^f/^^^J^ Narrovgut Crc«k, is about 3 miles long

:, ^ „„,™.«. i» a ^'«^^^ 7J:;„.,, „„, „„,£ a n,,lo N...h ..,

KYIKJUOT SOUND-TATI-STSn ARM.

iC.I

icli no vessel slimild

mnnel, an<l 2 milo^i
or, and SO teot ubnvo
1, extend half a niilf

1, is 1 mile N.N.E. of
it 70 feet liigli, fated
iTO 35 fathoms witliiu
,t Hill, a remarkable
and very conspicuous

;yiiquot Channel, and
lilt with a remarkal>lo
^er flood, lies 2 cables

lol, and nearly 3| miles
last and West direction,
i the island rises near
lidway between White
iuto the sound through

and protecting it fi-'om
iS in extent. Its surface

00 foet.

• Union Island, between

nous channel with some

entered by a stranger ;

lannel, but no directions

1, about H mile from the
ow, and I mile long in a
iry from 16 to 8 fathoms,
vs its breadth is less than
aer. Shingk Point, at the
, observation spot used in
127" 9' 30" W. ; the varia-

•eek, 39 about 3 miles long
rage. On its North side,

1, and half a mile North of
-easterly direction. On its

N.E. side is Dixie Con', wlierc a small (.'raft may anchor in fatluJiiis ((nn-
])lutoly laiul-locked. i'inunce ClutHnd, botwncii Uo-lioao Island and tin' Kast
sliorff of tlio sound, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, and half
a milo wide, clear of danger.

Tah-sish Arm, in the North part of the sound, 1ms its ontranro /j .miles
from tlie termination of the Kyuquot Channel. It is « miles Inntr in a
winding direction to the northward, and its sliores, except at tlie head, aro
liigli, rugged, and generally steep-to. The head terminates in low swiuupy
land. There is one ancliorage 1 milo within the entrance, on the East side,
called Fair Harbour.

Fair Harbour is of an oldong shape, 2\ miles in h^ngth in a N.E. direc-
tion, from 3 to 4 caldes wide, and affords ancliorage near eitlier end in tr;>-.]i
13 to 11 fa<^homs; its shores generally aro liigh and steep. From the East
(,'nd a bank dries off a cable, and the westtm one is a low narrow neck
about a cable wide at low water, and separates the harbour from I'innaeo
Channel. The entrance to it, which Hes <m the North side near the middle,
is nearly u mile long, and from 1 to 2 cables wide, with some small islets
on its North side, the soundings in it btnng very irregular, varying fnmi f)
to 20 fathoms. In entering keep the South shore close on board. This
harbour can be entered by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind.

Moke-tas Inland, in the North part of the soimd, between the entrance to
the Tah-sish and Kok-sliiftie Arms, is about 2 miles long, and 1 mile wide,
rocky, and about 400 feet high ; its East and West sides are steep-to. At 1
cable off its North shore, near the centre, is a rock under water, and to the
S.E. of it lie the Channel Rocks, a smaU patch about 3 feet above liigh
water ; they are, however, steep-to.

Kok-shittle Arm, the entrance of which is in the N.W. part of the sound,
about 6 miles from Kyuquot Channel, is upwards of 8 miles long in a north-
westerly direction, and about a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradu-
ally towards the head ; its shores are rockv; and of a broken outline, with
several small islets off them. The soundnigs vary from 20 to 80 fathoms,
shoaling gradually towards the head. There are no dangers, and a very
good ancliorage, tho best in the sound, on its West side, at a distance of 4
miles from the entrance. The head of tho arm terminates in low swampy
land, through wulch flov ^ a small stream, and a bank extends off about 2
cables. Eauy Creel; on tlie West side of Kok-shittlo Arm, and 13 miles from
tho entrance of tho sound, is about 2 miles long in an E.S.E. direction,
turning sharjily nnind *'rom its entrance to the southward, and running
parallel to the inlet, being separated from it by a narrow rocky peninsula.
There is good anchorage from half a mile within the entrance to the head.
It ought to be entered in mid-channel.

Clhimis ''Bay, formt.'d in the West side of Kymiuot Sound, about 1 mile

VANCOUVER 1*^1'^^^' • ^ ^ , .

Srr: ^ i, ,,,vly half a luilo in o.te.t, but

^,„m tlu> Novtlv part .> • ^^^ .^^ ^^,,, ,^,,,^,. ^^^^^

,.,,.vasnoauclu>rago,tlu,xvat ,H.nnrt to enter lv>"q^«^ _

3).ections.--N.. .an.n. ^^^^«;;^ ^^^^,, ^ fXl^:^^^:^'-'
unless .itU a stea.ly -' ^^^^^ ^^..^,, ,ould -uA-" ^'^ 1 ^^^..^^^ Ou. duut,

Entering the .ouud ^^^ ^ i ^^^^^ ,, ,,, ^T^'^';^ of Union

identity tho .tom-lV " 1 r.,i„« N. l.y 1". .. l-, . i, , urtl. 1

betweo.. C1«.t-..1.™.«-1 " b=^^^^^.^_^ ,i,„,.Aa„»l l.m.., b

„ta,.d ww. '1'"' -* ,, ,v ,„ru ,d>i,.i, li- ..1' ■;■ ,^,.,,.

„t „t l,»t 4 oaWo. ^;;; „„ „,„ Y.u»uve, shore, » "" »^ ,,„„. ,

,, northerly direction, a ^_ ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^..^.^n; m. ^^

Kn-H in it vai7 ft'""" ^^ , ,>v,.oi)t in the northern pait,

in .mmner mouths, i ^^^^,.,^^^,t to enter. _

,lo in extent, tut

Kynqiiot Sound,
. heavy swell vv-
iUunmtic'il; and
,1 uitli llu.' ilwrt,
oil nmdo out.

ia tlu' ('"b- '^"^' '^
o of tlu3 clmnnel is
;.E. point of I'ni-n
ispieuous, and AviU
ing Island midway
; uud stoor up tbe
'uint,givoitaLeitU

., j^^iies to the vrest-
■vly direction, liaU' a
, futhouis, at tlio dis-
.auk extends 2 cables.
,mcr gvo. .> ?v. ^-^'o

into it thi'

,,r unavoidaLie civ.'um-

iarriergi-oup from the

westward of Table and
s about 3 miles Ions m
narrowest part. The
g somewhat irregvdar ;
ovthern part, is ele

lear of

^,0 largest of the l^arrior
,ut 160 loot Ivigb. Iraj>

''^vithfrom-ltoGfatboms,
^ndmucliUsedbycoasvr^
utricate, and no strange:',

luiel, just North of Table
East side is a large nat.xe

ank dries lu-arly ;^ eabl-.

„,,„g the Barrier Islands
it i« >voll sheltered >n al

OU-OU-KINSU INLET.

363

ent ranee

t„ if U v,-iv ii.imnv, aii.l ulnio.t .-lu.k"! "!' »>ll' '■"'■"'■

,„*;, b„. .U,.,.c .u-„ t„„„ .1 ... « f«U.«."» ..t u ..i»Uu,co of llo ..a .1...

is a verv daugerouH roeU, LItiej itmh, wm

ll.,lil,ut{'lmnm.l and only uncovers at low water spnngs.

''t tl^tiUd, no sUer should attempt to enter tlus harl.n. w.H.

oufapih.t. unless from absolute necessity, and if u. a sa.hng ves.el, only

"oU^^^Kr^Snli^ET, 10 mlles W.N.W. fnnu Kyu.uot Sound, is 7

„no iudill.a'eiit aneliorage, Battle iiay, .in. i wi j

side Tho entran..e lies AVest of the Barr.er Islands, is a nule nh in
•tow t part, and the soundings in it varying from M to 4 fathoms.
ZaMet at the S.E. extreme of the entrance, is small, bare, and 20
iw'l..tt. water; no vessel ought to go eastward of, or approach i
1. U .ve lu, ,,,«ternmost of the Barrier Islands, and

r:;!' ::^i::t bv n! fr^Tat-ehu roint, where they may be almost said

mik) the shore are elioked up "uu iy>^'- >

and tiu. oxtromo are remarkable.

i:;;r:.":;ir: r-"::;" .«-^ '»«. ^ ">»»' >-- - r"'-

'''^*''"'^" ,• wi « W entrmce point of Ou-ou-Kiush Inlet, and

,,„atil>ing the entrance ^^^ ^^^ ^^_^^^^ ^^.. ^^ ^^^,^^^,^. , ^,^,

&Wu-.«.AVry.s urea vi><lan ; „, „,ne. W hv S. IVum Clara

outride the entrance of (.a-ou-lvu.sh lul.t, -. nul<

A'ANCOUVKIi INLAND.

islot, nnd nonrly 4 miles S.8.E. of Hat Islimd in rsuspnrti Inlet. T!i<»y nrn
iihont half a mile in extent East and West, and only break uui iiHonally ;
tliero aro from 10 to 11 fathoms closu around them.

Battle Bay, which is jnst witliin tlie entranee of Ou-mi-Kinsh Inlet on
the West Hide, is upwards of a mil(^ wide, and ludf a mile deep, with several
islets and roeks inside it nrar tin- middle. Near the North part tiieve is an-
ehora^'o in from (i to !» fatlioms, whieh may he used in hue weather.

NASFABTI INLET, .'H miles West of Ou-(iU-Kinsii Inlet, on 'h(> East
Bide of a largo peninsula of which Capo Cook is the S.W. extreme, and in
the head of an open Itight or bay, is about 4 miles long i.i a northerly
direction, and about half a mile ■wide at the entrance, decroasiii^jj in sonie
places to less than IJ caljles. Its shores are high and roc^ky, indented by
some slight bays. There is a fresh-water stream at the head, from which a
bank extends about 3 cables. The so\in<lings vary from 13 to 30 fathoms,
and there is a secure though rather limitt^d anchorage, in from 13 to 10
fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from the head. Outside tluj entrance
are sevejil dangers, but none within, and the projecting points may be
approachc ble's distance.

Tlie Suliva ofs, just described, lie 3^ miles S.S.E. of the entram.'o,

and nppear to bo pretty steep-to on the West side.

Haijdnch, off the East side of the entrance, and If mile North of the
Sulivan Reefs, aro two bare sharp-topped dilfy rocks 65 ft. high, and about
3 cables apart. There is a clear deep passag(i between them and tiu; Suli-
van Reefs. Emt Rock, 3 cables off the East entrance point, is of small ex-
tent, has 17 fathoms at a cable's distance to the westward of it, and covers
at half flood. Yule Islet, about 40 feet high, lies midway between the llay-
stacks and East Rock. Mile Rock Breaker lies 1| mile off the West shore of
entrance to the inlet, and 2 miles W. by N. i N. from Sidivan Reefs. It is
very dangerous to vessels entering the inlet, as it is of small extent, and
<-.nly breaks in heavy weather. No vessel should stand to the westward of
this danger.

Mile Rock, nearly a mile North of the above-mentioned danger, is a small
bare rock, 12 foot above liigh water. JIat Island, lying in the (centre of the
iidet just witliin the entrance, is small, and has a few stunted trees on the
summit ; from the southward it is very conspicuous, and ai)pears somewhat
like a hat. It is steep-to on the East side, but nearly midway between it
and the AVest shore is a shoid patch of 2 J fathoms, marked by ki Ip. In en-
tering the inlet pass eastward of the island.

Nasparti Inlet should not be used by a stranger unless unavoidably neces-
sary, as in thick or cloudy weather it might be difficult to nmke out the
leading marks, and no one should attempt to enter unless they are well made
out, especially as the outlying dangers only break in heavy weather, aud aro
seldom seen. A sailing vessel ought, in passing the entrance of this and

15R00KS PENINSULA -BROOKS IJAY.

1)6.5

Inlet. Tlicy arn
liik i)((ii>i((iially ;

i-Kiusii Inlet ou
eep, with fievoml
part there is aii-
veather.

ilet, on 'li(> East
oxti'omo, and in
g Li a northerly
.Toasiii^ in 8'>Tue
sky, indented Ly
ad, from which a
3 to 30 fathoms,
in from 13 to 10
side tlio ontrinu'O
5 points may bo

of tho entrani.'O,

ile North of tho
high, and about
■m and tin; Suli-
t, is of small ex-
jf it, and covers
otween the llay-
be West shore of
^an lleefs. It is
mall extent, and
I the westward of

danger, is a small
tho (centre of tho
ited trees on the
ppears somewhat
idway between it
by ki Ip. In cn-

navoidably noccs-
to nmke out tho

liey ai'o well nuido
weather, and arc

ranee of this and

Ou-oii-Kinsh Inlet, to keep Solander Island open South of the land East of
('ape ("ook bearing West.

BROOKS PENINSULA.— To tho westward of Nasjjarti Inlet is a penin-
sida of an oblong shape, !) miles long, and about 5 miles wide, projecting
into tho ocean in a S.S.W. direction. Its shores are gt^nerally very rocky,
and ri.s(s almost al)ruptly from tho sea to upwards of 2,000 feet. There
are sevorid ofl'-lying dangers around it, some of which extend upwards of ii
mile off shore.

CAPE COOK, or Woody Point, tho S.W. extreme of this peninsula, and
the nu)st jjrojectlng point of the outer coast of Vancouver Island, Kii miles
W. by N. .} N. from Oape Flattery Lighthouse, and fiO miles W. by N. i N.
from Est(!van Point. Tho cape rises abruptly fi'om the sea to a sumniit
1,200 feet high. Nearly 1 mile We.st of it lies Solaiuler Islaiul, which is
bare, 580 feet high, and has two sharp summits, lietween it and the cape
the passage is choked up with rocks, and no vessel or even boat should go
inside tho island.

At a distance of 2 miles off Cape Cook and tho South side of the penin-
sula, tho soundings are from 20 to 90 fathoms, and, as a rule, no vessel
should ap])roach nearer.

BROOKS BAY, on the "West side of tho peninsula, is a largo open bay,
about 12 miles wide and 6 miles deep. There are several dangers within it,
and two inlets, Klaskish and Klaskino, which afford anchorage, but are very
(lifRcidt of access, and no vessel should attempt to enter either unless em-
bayed and unable to got out of Brooks Bay.

Clerke Reefs lie in the S.E. pai-t of the bay, and 5 miles North of Cape
Cook ; their outer part is 2 miles off the East shore of the bay. They cover
an extent of upwards of 2 miles ; some are under water, others uncover, and
no vessel should venture among them.

Klaskish Inlet, at the head of Brooks Bay, on the West side of the
peniusida, and 10 miles N.N.E. of Capo Cook, is about 2 miles long in
a uoi'th-easterly direction, and 1 mile wide at entrance. At its head is u
long narrow basin, the entrance of whi('h is too contracted fur a vessel to
cuter. There is au anchorage just within tho entrance of the inlet on tho
South side, to the eastward of Shelter Island, but it is difficult of access to a
^ailiug vessel.

Stirf/c Inhts, on tho South side of tho entrance, about a mile off shore,
are small, rocky, and about 40 f'ct high; foul grouud exists among them.
Shelter Inland, just within t]w entrance of tlio inlet on its South side, is
about half a mile in extent, 300 ft. high, with a summit at each end covered
with a few stunted trees. Tho anchorage ou its East side is about a third
<if a mile in extent, with from 10 to 13 fathoms, well shelteifd, but the
bottom is irregular. Tho entrance to it, round tho N.E. side of tho island,
i^ less than a cable wide in the narrowest part.

V\NCOi:VEK ISLAND.

^nnd Konerully fails tlu-ro. ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^,„^ ^„.„^.

Entering tho anch.-vas. .m 1 .^ hast . ^^^ ^^^^^^^^.^^ ^.,^^^_^^_ ^^ ,.,.,avlu.1.1.

Cap., Cook 10 tho Houtlnvavd -^^■'^■''■^^_ ^.^^ ,.,„,,, i„ li„o will. S.nall
Hu Lnit at the head of the ndet about .500 ft^ h^, ^ ^^^ .^.^^ ^,^^,,,^

Wet on the North side of e,.tran<. 1- -^.^ ^>.,,, ,„,, Su.,e IsU...
,,,neaa into the inU. -;" ^^^'^ ! '.V ,, J' .t.ard, so as ^,o enter mid-
When abreast the latter, hanl a hU^ '^^^ ^^^^^ ,,,,,., .,.,e East of
.vay between Sn.all Islet and hheltet ^^^^^J^^ ^^^ f„,,^,,,,, ,,uh the

the have islet oii" the latter « N.E. po.n^^ and anch ^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^ ^ ^^
extremes of Shelter Island hearing N.AN ) W ^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^_

The entrance of this ^^^^^^ ^^ll^r luld ^ as a

avoidahly necessary, no vessel lai|, i

furious sea rages all around ^^^^ ^^^'^^^'^^^^^ ^^^ ,,,,,^ , „,nes off the

Ship Rock, lying uearly 8 nules N. '^;^^^ ^^^,,,, Kluskish and
..ore in the centre of Brool. ^J^J^^ . ,, ,o fatluuns dose on
Klaskino Inlets, is <^ -'^^^'^; ^^^ Wks very heavily over it.
its South and East sulea. ihe sea gcner y ^^^, jjorth part of

KLASKI.0 IKLKT, the ^ntran. ---;-- lly miles
l^rooks Bay, and 10 mdos N . W.^ ^^1^^^ ^^_^^ ^^^^^^^_^.^^^^^ ^.^,^,^^ ,,i.

long ina^vinding ^^'^^^t"*" *", \ ^ Z.. „,,,,,.o through them ; and there
th^ntrance, but a sai. tbou^^^^X^mi^ -^dn the inlet. The
i,.l..agood ^f -XntS:::; ,. casing gradually inside .hi-h

cr;:r :^^ ^^^ -^ --^ -- ^--'-"-^ " "^ " ^

^^. the south — ^--;-;-^^^

,vith a few stunted trees ; ---« ^00^^ high. Anchorage Hand, in the
,,^ outer part is a :.c^y ^^ ^^^^^ ^^., is of small extent,
n^idcUe of the inlet, about 2 mdcs wit ^^^ ^.^^ ^^ ^^^.^

..d rocky. The ^^^j;- ^r^^^^ W^ Anchorage Island some

vessel to go beyond them. ^^^^^^^ ^^^.^^^^ ^„.

Re, Stripe Mou.t.n, "-^;;^^;Xeummit 2,200 feet hi

ehorage Island ^^ ^ ^^^f^^t^V^i, facing seaward, is a con-
a valley on either side oi it on i bo P ^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^,^^, .

«pieuous red ^^^^^^^^^ i,ock,'bearing N.N.E. | E., leads
thelowerpartof it m '^^^^^ITZo^^, and weU N.W. of Ship Eock.
i„to the ontr.m.e f^^^^^^ ^^. ^,, ^^, ,„,,, ,, ,..e, and 20 .. above
Tweniy-Jeet liocc, 4 cables >v .i^- '

LAWN I'OrNT— QITATSINO SOUND.

3(17

f the inlet is a
vossi'Ih. IIS tlm

1, (1(1 not hi'iu^i-
,>, (I ri'iiiurluilili'
, lint' with Small

K., wliifU iniivk
„„l Siurc Islfts.
, ixs 'o outer uiid-
1 a cn1)lt> East of
fnthonis, Avitli tlu-

S.W. 4 W.

; and unlosH un-
l attempt it, as a

)k, 2 miii^s off tlio
0011 Klaskisli and
3 fathoms dose on
heavily over it.
the North fa.vi of
is nearly G miles
tiumerou« roeks oil
rh them ; and there
hill the inlet. The
lually inside, whiih
tin" in low land at

rocky, and covered
.es off it, and close to
Jiorage Island, in the
e, is of small extent,
ho East side of tlds
chorage Island some
nost impossible for a

entrance, • abreast An-
t 2,200 feet high, with
iig seaward, is a con-
lied from the outside ;
ringN.N.E. |E., leads
[.W. of Ship Eock.
i bare, and 20 ft. above

high wat(>r. It is conspicuous from tho outside. Tlie oidy cliannel into tin-
inlet is to tho westward of the rock, botwoen it and tlio Ohannol L'etfs.

Chainiil lif/n, tli(* S.K. part of wliidi is o\ cables W. by S. of Twuty-fcet
I?ock, arc an irregular cluster of rocks, mostly under wat(>r, exteudiii;^ ia a
westerly (lir(>ction to tho N.W. shore of Ih-ooks Bay. Tliero is deep water
between them in many places, but the only safe passage into Klaskino Inlet
is upwards of 3 cables wide, with deep water between their S.K. part and
Twenty-feet Rock.

If obliged to enter Klaskino Inlet, when outside Ship Rock, bring Twenty-
feet Ilock in line with tho lower part of red stripe on Red Stripe mountain, bear-
ing N.N.E. i' E., and run boldly for tho entrance with that murk on, which
will lead 2.\ cables South of tho Channel Reefs ; keep on this course till within
2 cables of Twenty-feet Rotjk, when haul a little to tho northward, and pass
it on its North side at a cable's distance, after which steer about N.E. by
E. A E. for the centre or South part of Anchorage Island, passing a cable
or so North of the rocks off the South side of tho inlet. When abreast
the S.W. point of the island, haul quickly to the eastward, round the
rocks off its S.E. point within half a cable, and anchor iu from 9 to 10
fathoms, midway between the East side of tho island and the main, with
tho extremes of the former bearing N.W. and S.W. by W. A largo vessel
should moor.

Tho entrance to Klaskino anchorage is even more intricate than that of
Klaskisli, and should not be attempted by a stranger unless absolutely
necessary for safety. Fresh water may be procured iu both these an-
(liorages.

Three miles from Klaskino, in the N.W. part of Brooks Bay, is a largo
rivulet where boats may enter and find shelter iu bad weather.

LAWN POINT, the N.W. extreme of Brooks Bay, lies 12 miles N.W.
by N. from Cape Cook ; it is low, and some rocks extend more than half a
mile in an easterly direction from it, inside of which a boat may fiud shelter.
The sea breaks violently about this point, and everywhere along the shores
of Brooks Bay.

The land iu the vicinity of Lawn Point appears very fertile, and lightly
tinkered ; it rises gradually from the sea to a height of 1,900 feet.

QUATSINO SOUND, the north-westernmost of tho deep inlets on the
outer coast of Vancouver Island, is an extensive arm of the sea, which pene-
trates the island in a north-easterly direction for upwards of 25 miles. Tho
breadth at tho entrance is nearly miles, narrowing to less than a mile at a
distance of 5 miles within ; the sound then runs in a north-easterly direction,
nearly straight for 13 miles, when it branches off in two arms, oue extending
to the S.E. for 12 miles, and terminating in low land. The other aim lies
to tho northward of, and is connected witli, the sound by a straiglit narrow
liass about 2 miles long. Its length is 22 miles in an East and West direc-

3og VANCOUVEK ISLAND.

tion and the oa«torn oxtrnmo, Rupert Ar.n, is only 6 mile« distant from
1 udy l^uy on the N.E. side of Vancouvor Island. The western pu-
::!Ltes'within 12 n.iles of San Josef Bay on the outer coast Ju.
within the entrance of the sound on the North side .s Forward Inlet, a n.ud
.mallor arm, about 6 miles long in a northerly direction, m whxch are the
best anchorages of the sound.

The shoros of Quutslno Sound aro generally high, and near the en tranco
very much broken. There are several islands w ithin and along its shores,
but they are mostly small.

From the outside the entrance of Quatsino Sound presents several ro-
„.arkablo features, which render it easy to be made out. The entrance ..
nearly 6 miles wide, and along its South side are several rocks and s.a^^
inlands ; on both sides of, and within the sound the land is high, and some
o the ummitsare very conspicuous, among others t^e/lat-top and Ln^
trance mountains to the northward of the entrance and the Nose Peak and
Gap mountains inside, the Nose Peak being easily distingmshed from .ts
sharp rocky summit.

The soundings in the entrance, and from 3 to 5 miles outside, vary from
30 to 70 fathoms, but within they deepen in many places to upwards of 100
athoms. There are several dangers along the South shore at the entrance.
InZi way are two very dangerous rocks, which only break in heavy
weler, and it requires great caution on the part of the navigator to avoid
them, when entering or h ing the sound.

It is high water, full ana change, in Quatsino Sound at UN the rise and
fall of tide being about 11 feet.

Eeef Point, the S.E. entrance point of the sound, is 14 miles N.W. by^.
from Cape Cook, and 1 J mile from Lawn Point, the N.W. extreoie of Brooks
Bay It is low and rocky, but rises gradually to a well-dehned summit,
1 901 feet above the sea. The coast between it and Lawn Pcnnt onns a
jight bay filled with a number of rocks extending a eonsideiab le distance
off shore Boat Eiver, which runs into a small bight on the South shore of
the sound. H miles within Keef Point, is merely a small stream which a

boat can enter.

Bold Bluff, 7 miles North of Eeef Point, on the South side of the sound,
i, as its name implies, a bold, rocky salient bluff, rising suddenly .. upwards
of 200 feet, when it slopes gradually to a summit, upwards of l.GOO feet
hU , it may bo safely approached to a cable. At this spot the sound con-
t,M.,.t9 in breadth to less than a mile.
'^S^ Islands, upwards of a mile S.S.W. of Bold Bluff, and 3 miles w^.

the entruneoof the sound, aro a chain of small islands, about 1 mile Ion,
a n\v and S.E. direction, some of which are covered with a few ..unted

L. ;unl are about 40 feet above high water; a .hort distance from thorn

les distant from
le western puvt
ter coast. Just
rd Inlet, a much
n wbicli are the

ear the entrance
along itB shores,

sonts several ro-
Tho entrance is
rocks and small
J high, and some
Flat-top and En-
e Nose Peak and
iguished from its

atside, vary from
to upwards of 100
•e at the entrance,
y break in heavy
lavigator to avoid

; U*", the rise and

miles N.W. by N.
extroiio of Brooks
U-dofined summit,
wn Point forms a
isideiable distance
the South shore of
ill stream which a

, side of the sound,
uddenly to upwards
,vard8 of 1,000 feot
spot the sound con-

; and 3 miles within

about 1 niilo long

I with a fow stunteil

distance from thorn

<>UATSINO SOUND— FOmVAlM) I\L1:T.

369

are a numbor of breukinj? rocks, but i) cables from tlioir 8outh and West
sides are from 10 to 30 futlioras.

Entrance Island, 5} milos N.W. i N. from Hoof Point, at tho N.W. en-
trance point of tlio sound, is smull and rocky, about 110 ieot high, auJ
covered witli a fow stunted trees. It is steep-to on its 8.E. side.

Danger Rooks, a milo within tlie entrance, nearly in the fairway, are two
very dangerous pinnacle rocks, of smull extent, and stecp-lo on all sides; as
they very seldom break, groat caution is rtK^uirud, on entering or leaving the
sound, to avoid them.

The Mrf/i Danger lies 7 cables E.N.E. from Entrance Island, and breaks
at low water. The Hoidh Danger is half a mile S.E. of the North rock, and
is awash at low water spring tides ; there is doeji water between them.

Bedwell Islot^ within the sound on the North side, open North of Bold
Blutf in line with the gap in the centre of Surf Islands, bearing N. ))y E.
J E., leads nearly a mile south-oast of the South Danger. Between the
Danger Eocks and Surf Islands, the passage is IJ mile wide, and clear
of danger.

FORWARD INLET, on the North side of the sound 1 mile within the
entrance, is about 6 miles long, first taking a north-westerly direction for 2
miles from its outer part, then turning to the N.N.E. for 4 miles, and con-
tracting in breadth ; it becomes shoal at the head, and terminates in large
salt water lagoons. There are two anchorages within it. North and Winter
Harbours, the former easy of accf.ss to sailing vessels ; both are very secure,
and well sheltered.

Entrance and Flat-top Mountains, on the West side of inlet near the en-
trance, are very conspicuous objects from seaward; the former is 1,275, and
the latter nearly 1,000 feet high. Pinnacle Islet, three-quarters of a mile N.
of Entrance Island, at the S.V«r. entrance point to Forward Inlet, is a small
jagged rock about 40 feet high, with a few trees on its summit.

Rohson Island, in the bend of Forward Inlet on the West side, 1 J mile from
Pinnacle Islet, is about half a mile in extent, and 400 feet high ; its shores
are rocky, but at a distance of a cable free of danger on the North and East
sides. A small village stands on the East side of Forward Inlet, abreast
Eobson Island, and close off it is Village Islet, a small bare islet about 40
feet hig^, which is rather conspicuous.

Bare Met, lying off the N.E. entrance point to the inlet, is about 12 feet
high, and steep to on the outside. Burnt Wll, 1,095 feet high, just over the
north-east entrance point of Forward Inlei, is remarkable from the south-
ward, being bare of trees and cliffy on its South side; one iiile north-east of
it is another consincuous summit, nar.ied Nose Peak, 1,730 ft. high, with a
bare rocky top.

North Puvijic.

2 B

■ x. ?'" -; » ir.g^T-ji^-rf r r#j ' i ^ ^ " "jmj p m"

^^^ VANCOUVER 1 SI AND.

1 • 1 !•«„ ♦« t»,n N W of Robson Island, in ft bight on

It 60- 20' 25"; long. 128- 3" 39- W. Vanafon, m 1802, 2i) « t.
'°wlr H.rt..r Lprl-.H.. raH o. ^°-;;;,J;^' ^ImH

low, and bord.,0,1 by a „ndy boa A i ^ *» '"^Z o„ fto .h„ale.t part,

. -«7« *»: j^a^of : 'o:!!' X- - *» -- - '-

'°*""\t 'bXioepinK a little over to tho We-t .ido when .b™a.t
Sr Co,.ri vi ot *, ..r.o.t .ize .ay .void tbi. ban., and ont»

''m;'';;:ro:TCrn«>eNoHb .,0 o, tbo ..nd, 1. 0. «.aU
o,^%t-ontb,ont.ido,andn,a,..dbyl.olp. It lie. U cable o,.

shore and 1 mile West from Bold Bluff.

nZll I,ht, lying 61 miles witbin tbo enlranoo, oil . r'<>J<»'>f« P"'-'""
.beNt^* ofZ 1.-, are of .mall extent, wooded, and »p«.«^

entrance; at ii caoios A^-ij-

^hich ie marked by kelp, and steep-to on tho outside.

v.«rmo Harbour, 8 miles within the entrance, in the centre of a bay on
jSs^n; sound, ie a perfectly landlocked ^-^11-^^^^^^^^^
affording room for one or two ships to he moored withm. I* 1 «« *« ^^^
'![hward of Plumper Island, which is about half a mUe xn extent, lo.,
.old and steepl on all sides, there bein, a good passage on either sule

of it into the harbour. , . „„.

, J n J in tbo West part of the harbour, mid-way between

QUATSTNO aOTTND-RUrEIlT Ainf.

.171

nd, in n bight on
»rftgp, about 4 ca-
, cnbloB wido, ren-
pprlmps tbo best
ithin tbo ontrftntn
\ milo long, b ^
atos in "x shallow

10 ontranco to tho
to the main; in
!, 2.r 40' E.
t which runs in a
8 to 11 fathoms,
id tho harbour bo-
roadth varies from

on tho East o.. .o, is
)f it, and extending
1 tho Bboalest part,
tho harbour to less
eido when abreast
his bank, and enter

» sound, is of small
It lies li cable olf

a projecting point on
oded, and separated
onspicuouB from the
oal, with 4 fathoms,

he centre of a bay on
but small anchorago,
■ithin. It lies to the
mile in extent, low,
passage on either side

(ur, mid-way between
ay be approached close
a 14 fathoms. Wed(/e
30ut 1 cable North of
ither side of it into the

harbour. Ohm at ion hht, at tho N.E. oxtremo of tho harbour, is bare, ami
about 12 foot high ; lat. .OO" 30' N., lat. 127" 52' 10' W.

End PauMtji' leads into Kopriuo Harbour, oastward of I'lumpor Island.
It is half a milo wido at entrance, and is clear of danger. Pndnnix I'oinl,
tho East ontranco point of East I'assago, is low, and bordered by a sandy
beach.

Tho North shore of Quatsino .Sound from Tridoaux Point takes a gonornl
north-eaHtorly direction f )r 9 miles to CofRn Islot, at tho ontranco of llecato
Cove. From Bold Bluff the Soutli shore of the sound nms nearly parallel
to the northern one for 13 miles in a north-easterly direction. It is high,
and indented by two bays of considerable size, and some small crooks,
none of which afford anchorage.

Limestone Island, 1 5 milos within tho entrance, and in tlio centre of tlio
sound, is tho largest island in tho sound, nearly 3 miles long, and about
three-quartws of a mile wide in tho broadest part. Its shores are rocky,
but clear of danger, and tlio island is of moderate height.

South-East Ann, the entrance of which is a milo East of Limestone
Island, and 18 miles within the entrance of tho sound, is 10 milos long
in a south-easterly direction, and varies in breadth from 3 cables to one
milo. Its shores are generally high and rugged, but terminate in low
land at the head.

Whitestone Point, at tho separation of the two arms at the head of Quat-
sino Sound, is a rocky point of moderate height, and lies throe-quarters N.E.
of Limestone Island, abreast Coffin Islet. IhiU Rock, which covers, and is
marked by kelp, lies 3 cables South of it, and 2 cables off shore.

Hecate Cove, on the North shore, about 1 milo N.E. of Coffin Islet, runs
in about two-thirds of a mile in a north-westerly direction, is from 2 to 3
cables wido, and affords good anchorage near the centre in 9 to 1 1 fathoms.
Tho entrance is clear of danger, but in the inner part of the cove, near the
North side, are some shoal patches, marked by kelp, with only 1 1 ft. water
in some parts. This cove is convenient for steamers or small craft. Round
Mand, nearly in mid-channel about a milo East of Hecate Cove, and just
South of Quatsino Narrows, is small, and of moderate height ; there is a
clear passage between it and the North shore, but the one South of it is
filled with rocks.

Quatsino Narrows, 20 milos inside the sound and connecting it with tho
R\iport and West Arms, aro 2 miles long in a northerly direction ; its shores
are high and rocky, but at half a cable's distance clear of danger, '^ho tido
runs through these narrows at a rate of from 4 to 6 knots, and t!.( itv^jams
turn shortly after high and low water.
Rupert Arm, to the N.E. of Quatsino Narrows, is 5 miles long in anorth-

2 u 2

,7-,7 rt^rx«?*5*?H«»rws'-^-

;i7'.

V.\Nr()tlVF,T{ ISLAND

ciHtorly Jirc'lion, ni.cl iioiirly a milo wi<lo; its sIktoh am liiRh nnd clear of
dan-cr. Itn h.mcl teiiuinat.-H in low land, iind u bank drioH ..ll' it for '2

West Arm tr.-nds in ii \v.«Ht.Tly din-ction nearly IH uiilo» from tho North
part of (iuutsino Narrows, an.l vurioH in broudth from 2 cabl.J8 to a mil...
It8 Hl.orcH an* (,'om-rany hit;h and rocky; tho northern ono is indented by
Rovoral small bays. Tib n. aro two anchora«.'H, ono at ("oal J 1 arbour, on tho
North hido, and tho otiuu- at tho odgo of tho bank, oxtondiny from tho
liuud.

Coal ITiirhour, 2 niilos from tho narrows, on tho N..rth side of West Arm,
is of sqm r« shape, from 3 to 4 cabloH in oxtunt, and aUords go.)d anchorapo
near tho middle in from 12 to 14 fathoms. Indications of coal have been
met in its vicinity.

Directions.— Entering Uuptsino Sound from tho southward, give Reof
Point, its S.E. entrance po-nt, an offing of about 2 miles, and steer North
till IJold lUufT ernes in line with tho gap in tho centre of the Surf Islands,
N. by E. i E.. whicl; mark kept on will lead S.E. of Danger liocks; when
tho West side of llobson Island comes open North of Entrance Mount point
in Forward Inlet N.W. by W. -i ^V , or Village Islet, on the East side of
that inlet, is just touching IJrown Point, bearing N.W., a vessel will bo
well East of thesr rocks. If bound up the sound, round the North end of
Surf Islands at i- distance of about half a mile, or if going to Forward In-
let, steer about N.W. by W., taking care not to shut in tho South side of
Ro'bson Island with Entrance Mount Point, until Bedwell Islets coi- open
North of Bold Blutr, bearing N.E., when she wiU be well No ^ the

Danger Rocks. I'uss from one to two cables otf the East si the

Low and Robson Islands, and rounding the North point of the latter, at
the same distanco, enter North Harboux-, and anchor in iiom 4 to 6 fathoms
near its centre.

Entering Uuatsinj Sound from the westward, keep an ofTing of about 2
miles, till Entrance Island bears N.E. or N.E. by N., when steer to pass
about 2 cabl:^s East of it, but not further off. When abreast it haul to the
northward, bringing Pinnacle Islet in lino with tho East side of Low Islets,
bearing NN.W. 2 W., and steer up with that mark on till Bedwell Islets
come well opei: North of Bold Bluflf, bearing N.E., when enter Forward
Inlet, or proceed further up the sound, as before directed.

The COAST of Vanco-ivor Island from Quatsino Sound to Oapo Scott, the
N.W. extreme of the island, runs in a general W.N.W. direction; it is
generally rocky and irou -bound, indented by several bays, mostly small, uud
Irom the projecting points some rocks extend in parts nearly a mile oil' shore.
At a ilietauce of 2 miles off aro from 20 to 30 fathoms, sand and rock,

SAN JOSEF HAY-rAlM', S(\)rT.

.178

lii^^h ntid clonr of
JiicH (ill' it for 2

18 from the North
ciiblus to a mile.
10 is indented by
[ Jliir'tour, on tlm
touding Irom tlio

ido of WoBt Ann,
iIh good unchoruRo
,f i;oal bavo been

thward, give Roof

and steer North

the Surf Islands,

ngor lidcks; when

Tunce Mount point

L the East side of

,, a vessel will bo

the North end of

ng to Forward In-

tho South Bide of

I Islets coi -^ open

well No *• the

East si the

rit of the latter, at

lora 4 to 6 fathoms

a ofQng of about 2
vhon steer to pass
roast it haul to the
side of Low Islets,
till Bedwell Islets
hen enter Forward

i Ic Oapo Scott, the
,W. direction; it is
s, mostly small, uud
irly a mile off shore,
ms, sand and rock,

doepoiiing to 100 fathoms at 10 to 1 1 mih-s olf shore ; lo tho soiitliwaid of
the Scott Ishinds tho lOO-lathoms lino doos not uppour to extend more than
() niih»8 from thinn.

In navigating b(ttwoen Capo Scott and (.iuatsino Sound, do nut approach
the shore nearer than 2 miles.

n<ui,j,il I'ninf, ;t miles from tho North ontranc- point of (iuatsino SouikI,
is a rocky, rugged point of modcrati' height. Opm Jl,n,, wiii.h lies just in-
wide it, Hllords landing for boats in lino wo.iUut on its Hast side. Tho cast
between Open 15ay and tiio eutramio t<. duatsino Sound is high and clilly ;
some rocks cxteml nearly a mile oil' it,

Toj>4»nt Point, 6 miles N.W. of Ragged Point, is low. with a summit ;100
feet liigh.shapwl like a top-knot, just within it; some rocks extend half a
mile to the s.mlhward from it. li.ifl Con; K miles fnm, Ragged Point, is an
open bight about a mile in extent, and allbrds no shelter whatever. (;>,»■
Pnlmerslm,, 11 miles north-west from Ragged Point, is a bold, rocky
point, rising to a summit 1,412 feet high; some rocks extend half a mile
from it.

SAN JOSEF BAY, the entrance to which is 14 miles N.W. from Ragged
Point and 8 miles S.E. of Cape Scott, is an extensive open bay, W miles
deep in a north-easterly direction ; tho breadth at the entrance is nearly '2
miles, narrowing gradually towards the head. Its shores aro high, and ofi'
the South side are s..veral oil- lying rocks ; the soundings vary iron. 11 to 4
fathoms, but the bay allords no shelter, e.xcept with northerly winds, and
should only be used as a stopping place in fine weather.

Sea Otter Cove, just West of San Josef 13ay, is about a mile long in a
northerly direction, at-'l from 2 to a cables wide. There are 6 fathoms in
the entrance, and from . lo 3 fathomn inside it, also several rocks ; the shelter
within is very inditlcrent, and the place only lit for a coaster.

CAPE RUSSELL, 16 miles Inmi Ragged point, aiul immediately west-
ward of Sea Otter Cove, is a remarkable headland 810 feet high, and the
outer part of a peninsula formed by Sea Otter Cove and a small bay N.W.
of it. Some rocks, which break very heavily, extend nearly a mile South

of the cape.

From Cape Russell to Cape Scott the coast, from 600 to 600 feet high,
trends in a north-westerly direction, and is indented by three open bays,
which are nearly a mile deep, but afford no shelter whatever.

CAPE SCOTT, the N.W. point or extreme of Vancouver Island, is about
.-iOO feet high, and connected to the island by a low sandy neck about one
cable wide Some rocks extend West of it for more than half a mile, and
there is a bay ou either side of the neck, which would afford anchorage to

wy &j 'w ^.w^ ^ ' ^ e 'Wyitv'^^-— '

.;r?'»^*'<r*rt'W>r' rr?

^A-- ' ^- " ^ !^^^'"""^^

374 VANCOUVEK ISLAND.

boats or small craft in fine weather only ; cIoho to its S.W. extreme is a small
creek among the rocks, difficult of access, but once within it, boats may get
bhelter in southerly gales.

The northern and uastorn coasts of Vancouver Island will bo described in
the next Chapter.

il i

mwr

extremo is a Hmall
it, boats may get

rill bo described in

( :i7'' )

ciiArTEii vrr.

BKlTISn COLUMBIA, ETC.

At tho cnminoncomont of the preceding Chapter a bi'iof account is given of
tlio history of the hycb-ography of Vancouver Island, and incickuitally t.f that
of tho main land adjacent. It will not be necessary to add nnich to that.
Vancouver's survey was an admirable reconnaissance of tlio shores of tho
strait, whicli ho made linown to th(» world almost f.»r the first time.
But its more important -hannoLs and features are now complottjly repre-
sented in tho fine series of charts executed from the surveys made by (Japt.
O. H. Eichards, assisted by Commander R. C. Mayne, in 1800.

In this chapter will be included an accoimt of the Noi-th-east Coast of
Vancouver Island, which lying on tho channel wliich separates it from tho
continent, coidd not bo well described except in connection with that coast.
We follow, therefore, the order in whicli it is given in the Vancouver Island
Pilot.

The country, as is well known, has only been lately tlirown ojien to the
world. Prior to 1858, when the British Government resumed possession of
it fr(HU the Hudson's Bay Company, only a Anv posts of fur traders existed
throughout tho land ; but in 1857 gold was first discovered (although long
before known to exist by the Hudson's Bay Company's officers), by somo
Canadian emigrants, who successfully ' 'prospected" tlio banks of tho Thompson
and Bonaparte Eivers, tributary to the Fraser, and between March and
June, 185c», a rush of gold seekers crowded into tho country from California,
and to this day this continues to bo tho chief object of its commerce. In
186G it was estimated tliat there wen; (;,000 white hdiabitants on tlio main-
land, including 3,000 miners, who produced jEGOO,00() value in gold dust.
The native popidation, most difficult to ostimat(>, \\ as considered to am<nmt
to 40,000. The gold fields are fai- inland, the principal being that called tlie
Cariboo.*

• The excullont Grand Trunk waggon road I'loia Yalo (tlio hiad of (ho navigation on (he
FraH«r River) to thu centre of the mining ilistriot of Cariboo, a total Iciifrth of ;i7.j niijes
was completed in 186(), through a couiitiy full of enginucring difficulties, is a result of
which tho young colony might bu justly protul.

■i t. iiiii , inM iyii . » !>.»»<.

376

URITISTI COLl'MlilA. ETO.

f„ ,.„„..i«.io.„ o«-...« - H. ,.,o,.,..,u..„,,. .WO. ^^^^^ ^^ ,

an »uiV. ... .1.'- ■'- i-'""' ™ '"''" ll) ^t .1 !„ of toniUo vul.U., .,r

out in,c,™p.l..« ..V ».,..»" "■ 'X: ;;:;!„„,lg,»u. ta .ailing ve..U

to work throxgl., aixl aic theroioro i ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^

.,ot.or,uodes; f f^^f '^^^ j^^ ji ::t:u: Jdiidvantage of loss
tatko.nable, and tho boldnos. o ^^^ ;'^^ " ^^^ ^^^.^^^^^ ^,j,, ^,, excoUcntly
i^nportan... One feature advortcd to bv "^^^ ^ rouun-kable, is, that

caution oiigiit to be useci m llu^•^lub compos-

w-vioiiw coDSoqueiiL-es.

35.10. of tho .nounta,n. v bich confine th. -er -od an- *- ^ ^^^. ^,^ ^,,,,

arc caUcd-pcvfoaiy lovol. un-l oi exactly tbo «- '' ^^. ;^^^ ,,,„ f,,„,„ion

ev.d, n>ly tho boachoB of .o.e lake in Ibrmer ages oi th ^^^^^^ ,

. , fti,., inwrrT-Viscv suij-wtMtheu- origin to l.iio trax.iM. i" j n

.,f the canon '^^^^^r^^';^ Zr n-w How. had loei. partiully hrok.n down, perhaps

,,n.l Pr. W. B. Chcadlo, 1S6.5. pp. ■J3S-;U,.

. jH,« i i.j i H. i l l t J ».li>-iaMlB "

.■-;.«,.,s,^g ,,A ' ^V j ;» ''w ww »«* « t ^ ^

A*akw»i«»«"«**'^'"

STTJ.VIT OF (iK()l{(;iA.

.■177

oast, is uiitittod

isou Rivers find
irlnivst 8 through
tcrriiic! rapids (jr
L whiih has been
adinirp.olo book

'storn seaboard of
vcr and Nciv Coru-

of islands of all
r extensive series
B chain of inland
) northward, with-
me that in many
, for sailing vessels
m navigation than

parts all but un-
sadvautage of less
ho has excellently
juiarkable, is, that

projecting points,
,f the dill's compos-
er \vat<!r, from the
fted, might lead to

vith nimierous and
ill vnsv.n, will be best
1 rivers, or at least
,;rc torrents, fed in
iter by the untiring

rt; which flow into it, a
sumo work. Along th<;
acoij—or henchoB us they
each side of the river,
history. Th» formution
iv<.l). ni. They siipvos^-^'
lly broken down, perhapB
I thus lowcvod the surface
lovel strand, to the lower
,-)'," hy Viscount Milton

deluges of this dismal clin.ate. The Habine. the Nass. and the Skina or f^ti-
kine, are the only ones that nmy be ascended to any distance, and oven those
only with (H)nsiderab]e dithculty and danger.

The primary discovery of the country has been before adverted to, and
many of the remarks are as applicable to this as to other jmrtions ; but
it arose from the z(-al and persev(>rance of two intelligent men, who traded
hither under the licence of the Poutli Sea Company. These wore Capts.
Portlock and Dixon ; they made the principal discoveries on the coast
subsequent to Captain Cook's visit in his last voyage. Their narratives
are, n.-vertheless, too diffuse, and abound too much with personal narrative
and mii.utin^ to afford much general information on the ('ountry they visited.
It is to the ..xcellent surveys of Vancouver, in 1792, that we owe the greater
part of the knowledge we possess of the inland navigation and nautical in-
formation of this country.

Besides Portlock, Dixon, and Vancouver, the Spaniards surveyed a portion,
and their charts fill np the vacancies left by the other ; but of their surveys
we have no verbal description to be of service. In the voyages of Meares,
previously adverted to, there are also sonus notices of visitors to this
coast during the origin ..f the fur tra.lc, as before explained, as arising out
„f the notice atTorded by Captain Ccx.k. Then Captain Ingraham visited
tlio S E side of Queen Charlotte Island; and Captain Oray, who discovered
the Columbia Kiver, first explored it in the IFusfu-iH/fou, which name he

applied to it. • r -i? i

STRAIT OF GEORGIA.— Having passed out of the Strait of Fuca by
either of the channels de.scribed in Chapter VI, pages •274-;Jll ante, when
t., the north -westward of a line drawn between East point of Saturna Island
and Whitehorn Point of the main, a vessel may be considered well in the
Strait of Georgia, but before entering upon any description of the latter, it
may be well to otfer a few remarks on the comparative merits of the two
main channels which lead into it, viz., Hnro a. Rosario Straits ; both have
their advantages and disadvantages under var^ni^ conditions.

Haro Strait is more tortuous; the water is so deep that it would be im-
possible for a vessel to anchor in the main stream, and for its whole length
vho tides, though not stronger, are more varying in their direction.

Rosario Strait leads by a very gentle curve almost a straight course into
the Strait of Georgia; the deptli of water, although considerable, is such
thatifneeessarv a vessel might anchor in it; in one part it is somewhat
narrower than the narrowest parts of Haro Strait, and the tides run with
ociual strength ; it has its sunken rocks and dangers in an e-iual degree with
the Haro, and perhaps the anchorages in point of numbers and facilities
for reaching them are equal in both. Extreme care and vigilance are calld
lor in navigating either with a sailing vessel; to one with steam power,
neither ofier any dilUeulties.

««\*»««««w**»w«'«'^'*""' ■<

378 BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

A Klance at tho chart will show that to a vessel bound from sea, or from
any of the southoru ports of Vancouver Island, to the Strait of Ueorgm,
the Haro Channel is preferable, and it will be equally evident that to reach
the same destination from Admiralty Inlet or Puget Sound liosano Strait is
the most direct and desirable. Having entered, however, by either channel,
the promontory of Roberts Point will be immediately seen with its conspi-
cuous white-faced cliff, and appearing as an island. From the northern
entrance of Haro Strait it will bear N.N.W. 11 miles ; and from thr Rosario

N W. by W. 15 miles.

The general direction of the Strait of Georgia is W.N.W.. and from a
position midway between Saturna and Patos Islands. 19 miles on this course
should take a vessel abreast the entrance of Fraser River, the sand heads
bearing N.N.E.. distant 3 miles ; and for this distance the breadth of the
Htrait, not including tho deep indentation of Semiahmoo Bay is 10 miles.
Continuing the same course for a further distance of 19 ^^^-\^-\^'^f
between Burrard Inlet on the East, and Nanaimo Harbour on the West,
the entrance of the former bearing about N.E. i E. 16 miles, and the
latter S W. i W. 7 miles.

The breadth of the strait, after passing the sand heads of the Fraser, in-
creases to 14 miles ; and between Nanaimo and Burrard Inlet it is 20 miles.
The depth of water is from 70 to 100 fathoms between Roberts Point and
the western side ot the strait, and further to the westward between Burrard
Inlet and Nanaimo as much as 200 fathoms in the centre.

The dangers to bo avoided in working through the strait are, on the east-
ern shore, Roberts and Sturgeon Banks; and on the western the neigh-
bourhood of East Point, and Tumbo Island, and tho Coasts of Saturna and
Mayne Islands, until beyond the entrance of Active Pass. A chain of
reefs and rocky islets lie paraUel with this shore, m places extending
nearly a mile off; and as the bottom is rocky and irregular, with a consider-
able strength of tide, vessels are recommended not to approach it within 2

""irshould also be remembered that the ebb sets to the S.W., through
Active Pass, and that tide racos occur in its northern entrance. Roberts
Bank is easily avoided, especially since the establishment of the lightvessel
in 1866. If the weather is thick, when 50 fathoms is struck, a vessel will be

trotting very near the edge. . i • i

The Tides although not nearly so strong as among the Haro Archipelago,
vet run with considerable strength, as much as 3 knots, particularly during
the freshets of summer, when the Fraser River discharges an immense
volume of freshwater, which takes a southerly dii-ection over the banks, and
•amost straight for the mouth of Active Pass. This peculiar milky-coloured
'.vater is frequently carried quite across the .trait, and is sometimes seen in
the inner channels washing the shores of Vancouver Island, at other times

'"^^-'IMBBI

OQ sea, or from
•ait of Georgia,
t that to reach
iosario Strait is
' either channel,
with its conspi-
ni the northern
roni thp Eoaario

SV., and from a
B8 on this course
the sand heads
breadth of the
Jay, is 10 miles,
miles, will lead
ir on the West,
miles, and the

f the Fraser, in-
let it is 20 miles,
iberts Point and
between Burrard

are, on the east-
atom, the neigh-
;8of Saturna and
iS8. A chain of
places extending
, Arith a consider-
:oach it within 2

le S.W., through
trance. Roberts
jf the lightvessol
k, a vessel will be

laro Archipelago,
articularly during
irgos an immense
iror the banks, and
iar milky-colourod
iometimes seen in
id ; at other times

ROBERTS I'UINT.

379

it reaches the centre of tlio channel only, forming a ronmrkable and most
striking contrast with the deep blue waters of the Strait of Georgia.

Below the mouth of the Fraser, the tide is rather the stronger on tho
western shore. On tho eastern side, within the lino between Roberts and
Sandy Points, scarcely any tide is felt ; and vessels will gain by working
up on that shore with the ebb, where good anchorage can also be found, if
necessary.

Allowance must be made for tho tides, which is not difficult, having
once entered the Strait of Georgia by daylight, and knowing which tide
was running.

The COAST of the Washington Territory, to the southward of the
boundary separating it from British Columbia, has been previously described
in pages 268—270, Wo commence with the promontory to the southward of
the entrance of tho Fraser River.

ROBERTS POINT is the termination of a remarkable promontory which
stretches southerly from the delta of the Fraser River. It presents a broad
face to the southward, and its southern extreme is a little more than 1 J miles
South of the 49th parallel of latitude; the eastern point of the promontory
is a remarkable white-faced cliflF, 200 feet high, its summit crowned with
trees. From it tho land gradually falls to the westward and terminates in
Roberts Spit, a low shingle point, within which is a small space of level clear
land, where a few wooden buildings were erected on the first discovery of
gold in the Fraser River, and named Roberts Town ; for a few months it
served as a deiwt for the miners, but it has long been deserted.

From this spit the coast trends to the N.N.W., with bluff shores of
moderate height for 3^^ miles, when it merges into tho swampy delta of the
Fraser. From most points of view, and particularly from the southward,
Roberts Point presents the appearance of an island. Shoal water, and rocky
irregular bottom^ on which kelp grows in summer, extends for more than a
mile E.S.E. from the white face of the point, and vessels are recommended
to give it a good berth.

Anchorage will be found on either side of the promontory ; to the eastward
in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extreme of tho white chflF bearing
W.S.W. distant 1 J mile ; Roberts Spit, the western termination of the pro-
montory, should be just shut in by the white cliflP. To the westward of the
spit there is fair anchorage in 8 fathoms good holding ground, with the spit
extreme distant three-quarters of a mile, and in one with Mount Constitution
on Orcas Island bearing S.E. i E., a white flagstaff at the North end of the
low land of the point N.E. by E. i E., and the bare bluff of tho 49^ parallel
(ir the monument on its summit N.W. ; here the edge of tho bank will bo
distant a quarter of a mile, and a ship sliould not anchor any further to the
northward, as the Roberts Bank trends rapidly to the westward.
There is a granite monument '2b foot high erected on the summit of tho

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

■''"" ."", . wUible from the anchorage on account of

.,..i„„,;a.di, mentioned en paBeJ62'^™°»)^ ^^^^^^ „ „..„,y
SWr'*"f r r;\ld t^^* »'- ene, e, to Se»i»W Bay,

ai«ction fn. n n.n... "> *'"";* ^^°';:. . N.N.W. direction for a
^M iB 5 miles from '''V''"'" ' ' (,7 'roint on the North, =» it dee.
Lher distance et 1. mde. S'"-^^^2n of the bank northward of the
Bohert. Point on the So°«'gJ^'J„.„i, ;. i. .«p-to, .ndamieeut-
r^e *re =dt "a! fL ,0 to eO fathom., then .0, and .mm,-

^Sr^I. <a point of m..itnd« and pre... -^^^^L
„„ce, i. .ecend only to the O^nmh.a on the J-W^ c ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^

entire freedom from r,.k ef hfe and .h^ , ^^^ ^ ^^.^ .^^„„,jy

(aire, over an, other r,ver on *«"»'•; ,„ , ^^er. emptying

,r!m the danger, and »7" XJlf,,;. t«cie!.ly oh,io».. A .he,-

the BmalleBt class, "-^««« *^;>' ^"^.^ in a ^^eat n^easure the fixed and
To the same cause ^^ ^« ^^;2 X.^^^ ,Lh this magnificent stream
unvarying character of the ^^-^^^^^ ^^j, ^, Georgia; and there can be
pursues its undevious coxuse into the btr ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^

Lie doubt that it is dest^e , at no^ d.st^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ -^^.^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^„
as it is already partially fulfil «g. ^^^^^ ^,^,,, ,;ehes in mineral

it-the outlet for the product «[ ^ J^^^; full^discovered and developed,
aud agricultural wealth are da.ly b mg^^^^^^ ^^J ^.^^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^.^ ^„^,.

The river, with its nume^^b^^^^^^^^
tains, between 400 and ^00 mUes from ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^

whence it forces its ^^y J" *«7" ' f ti,;3 "^region, confined by gigantic
^eat parallel valleys which ^f^^^'^'lJl ^'^^eultural resources on
fountains, with large trac s of country, r d ^^.^^^ .^ ^^^^^

;r-i:n;r:rv------^^^^^^^^^^

entrance

'~ ' 7Z r„mmnv Its site is the inost brautiful

• „op., . an ..M .tationof the Ilua.n s J^ay C-panj^^,^^^^^^^ „, ^„,^ .„„untains-Yale
in British Colmnbia-a wooded leva shut. y

^■■^'"-'1!!/^%

FEASEK RIVEl}.

381

;o on accoiint of
Fnited States pos-

horly or westerly
Semiahmoo Bay,

the stroam of the
in a W. by N.
•ance, and at this
;V. direction for a
North, as it does
northward of the
-to, and a mile out-
hen 20, and imme-

commercial import-
of America. In its
sses infinite advan-
ie of this immunity
mt rivers emptying
y obvious. A shel-
; and the neighbour-
•, preventing the pos-
ts to vessels even of

loasure the fixed and
is magnificent stream
ria ; and there can be
to fulfil to the utmost
chich nature ordained
hose riches in mineral
30vered and developed,
ise in the rocky moun-
ortherly direction, from
rough one of the many
confined by gigantic
rricultural resources on
Hope,* which is about
terly direction from its

s site is Iho inost brautiful
re of I'^fty mouiilains— Vale

Above the City of Lytton, which standH at tho fork or confluence of tho
Eraser and Thompson Elvers, o,', miles above Hope, many rich deltas occur,
or as they are termed by the miners, bars, and among these known as the
wot diggings, gold was first discovered in liritish Columbia.

At Hope the river assumes the character of a navigable stream ; stoaraors
of light draught reach this point and oven the town of Yale, 13 miles above
it, during from six to nine months of the year. In June, July, and August,
the molting of the snow causes so rapid a downward stream tliat vessels,
oven of high steam power, are rarely able to stem it, and during these
months numbers of large trees are brought down from tho flooded banks,
which offer another serious obstruction to navigation. Between Hope and
Langley, the latter 30 miles from tho river's mouth, there is always a con-
siderable strength of current from 4 to 7 knots, at times more ; but at
Langley the river becomes a broad, deep, and placid stream, and except
during the three summer months, the influence of the flood stream is gene-
rally felt, and vessels of any draught may conveniently anchor. The depth
is 10 fathoms ; the current not above 3 knots.

Midway between Langley and Hope the Harrison Eiver faUs into tho
Eraser and by it a long chain of lakes extending in a general N.W. direc-
tion, a comparatively easy route has been established, by which the Upper
Eraser is reached at a point just below the Bridge Eiver, in the heart of the
gold region, thus avoiding that difficult and at present almost impassablo
part of the country between the town of Yale and the Fountains, by the main
river a distuuts of about 90 miles.

Vessels of 18 feet draught may enter the Eraser near high water, and
proceed as high as Langley with ease, provided they have or are assisted by
steam power. The only difficulty is between the Sand Heads and Garry
Point, the entrance proper of the river, but while there are competent pilots,
and the buoys remain in their positions, this difficulty disappears. The
lightship is a sufficient guide for making the entrance. It must be remem-
bered, however, that the tides of the strait of Georgia sweep across the
chann'el of the entrance, and a large ship is recommended to enter or leave
with the last quarter of the flood.

The great quantity of deposit brought down by the freshets of summer,
has created an extensive series of banks, which extend 5 miles outside the
entrance proper of tho river. The main stream has forced an almost straight
though somewhat narrow channel through these banks, and at its junction
with the current of the strait of Georgia, which runs at right angles to it,

upon a grander scale. Before tho discovory of the Cariboo mines, it was a place of con-
fidcrahle importance, but has now " caved in," and become desolate.— Viscount Milton and
Dr. Chcadlo, p. 318.

il !

3„.^ mnTTsn ootjjmbta, etc.

has cau«oa tho wall-odgod bank before alluded to, extending to Robert.
Point on the Soutli and Grey Point on tbo North.

Tho river i« at its lowest stage during the months of January, Febr^lary
and March. In April it commences to rise from the melting of tho snows, and
is perhaps 2 feet above its lowest level ; tho flood stream is «t'»°g /"^^e^;;"'
BwLg a ship at New Westminster up to the end of this month In May the
water rises rapidly, the river is at its highest about the end o J"-; -^ -
xnains up with trifling fluctuations until the end of July or middle of August.
During these six weeks tho banks are overflowed, and expensive plams
above Langley covered for a space of several miles ; the strength of the stream
between Langley and Hope being from 4 to 7 knots, and in tho narrow par s
ov Tire. Tho usual rise of tho river at Langley due to these floods .s
about H feet, but from tho testimony of an officer of tho Hudson s Bay
Company, who has resided more than 30 years there, it has been known to

reach 25 feet. ... u -a^ «^j

From tho middle to tho ond of August the waters begm to subside and
in September the stream is not inconveniently strong. September, October,
and November are favourable months for the river navigation, as tho water
is then sufficiently high to reach Hope, and tho strength of t^^e -"-*--
siderably abated. The shallow stern wheel steamers have got to Hopo as
late as December ; between this month and April, owing to tho shoalness of
tho water, and the great quantity of ice formed, navigation even by these
vessels only drawing 18 inches, is attended with great difflcul y and rardy
practicable at all. The snage or drift trees which become imbedded in tho
river, also form a serious obstacle to navigation at this season.

In April, the steamers commence again to run. In June July and
August, the rapidity of the current is tho great obstacle, but these high-
trefje vessels commanding a speed of 11 and 12 knots frequently accom-
plish the voyage, though at much risk.

The Harrison Elver route (page 381) obviates some, but not all of these
difficulties. At New Westminster the freshets raise the level of the rivov
about 6 feet, but the banks being high no inconvenience is felt, and i^e
strength of the stream is rarely 5 knots, during the winter frorn 2 o 3 for
ome miles within tho entrance the low banks are partially flooded or a
month or six weeks. The rise and fall duo to tidal causes is from 8 to 10 ft.
Tt springs, between the Sand Heads and the entrance of the river proper
at Garry Point; at New Westminster it is 6 feet, and at Langley scarcely

^'ThTLthtvessel, which was placed off the entrance in 1866, lies in 10
fathoms on the South Sand Heads. She is painted red, with her name m white
letters. She has two masts, and a red ball on tho mainmast. By night she

shows a Md light at 54 feet, seen 10 miles off. In foggy weather a bell is

sounded.

NFAV WESTMINSTER.

889

ding to Roberts

luary, February,
of the snows, and
strong enough to
ith. In May the

of Juno, and ro-
niddle of August.

extensive plains
igth of the stream
I the narrow parts
to these floods is
bo Hudson's Bay
laa been known to

a to subside, and
ptember, October,
iion, as the water
f the current con-
e got to IIopo as
to the shoalness of
ion even by these
[flculty, and rarely
d imbedded in the
ison.

n June, July, and
), but these high-
s frequently acconi-

)ut not all of these
3 level of the rivcv
ice is felt, and the
ter from 2 to 3 ; for
•tially flooded for a
08 is from 8 to 10 ft.
of the river proper
at Langley scarcely

e in 1866, lies in 10
ith her name in white
mast. By night she
ggy weather a bell is

There aro no natural marks sufRciontly well dotined, or which nro not too
distant, or too liable to bo obscured in cloudy weather, to enable a vessel by
their help alono to hit the narrow entrance between the Sand Heads with
accuracy, or without the aid afforded by the lightvossel on tlie South Sand
Head. The northern edge of the channel within is marked by spar buoys, for
the colour of which see chart.

When up with the lightvessel at the entrance, a remarkable solitary bushy
tree will bo seen on Garry Point, the nortliom entrance jwint of the river
proper, straight for which is the general direction of the channel. It bears
from between the Sand Heads N.N.E. a little easterly, and is just 6 miles
distant. Although to steer direct for this tree would not clear the outer
edges of either bank for the whole length of the channel, yet it will bo found
an excellent guide, to give almost the straight line in, should the buoys Ikj
removed.

The South Sand Head dries before low water, and has frequently a ripple
on it when covered ; when near the lightvossel, it should bo brought to bear
N.N.E. , and then steer to leave it a cable's length on the starboard side,
which will lead nearly in mid-channel, the buoys then on the port or North
side of the channel should be kept from half a cable to a cable on the port
hand. The least depth in the channel is 11 or 12 feet at low water, and this
occurs about midway between the Sand Heads and Garry Point ; at or near
high water from 18 to 20 feet, and sometimes 22 feet, may be carried into
within 1 J mile of Garry Point, when it deepens to 4 and 5 fathoms ; the point
should be passed close.

There is always a great quantity of drift wood on the point, and tlio
northern side of the river should be kept aboard for nearly 2 miles, where
from 8 to 10 fathoms will be found ; it is then necessary to cross to the Soutli
side, and to keep close along it, passing the mouth of the South or Boat
Channel, nearly 2 miles above which, and abreast 4 clump of high trees,
cross again to the North bank to the left of two lo;v sandy islands ; the
channel then leads rather along the North side of the river, and with the
assistance of the chart will be found sufficiently easy for vessels of 20 feet
draught until or 7 miles above Langley.
It is not, however, recommended for a stranger to enter without a pilot.
NEW WESTMINSTER, at first chosen as the capital of British Columbia,
a dignity now ceded to Victoria, stands on the North or right bank of the
Eraser Eiver, just above the junction of the North Fork, and 15 miles in a
general north-easterly direction from tho entrance proper. It occupies a
commanding and well chosen position, being withiu an easy distance of the
entrance, and having great facilities for wharfage along its water frontege,
a good depth of water, and excellent anchorage.

The river bank is somewhat precipitous in places, and the country at
the back is like all tho lower parts of tho Eraser (unles-s, indeed, in the

UTJlTIsn COl.T'MlVIA, KT<'-
Hubjoet to inundauon '-•-«^'^, ;,,,„.. Has tukon plac in the v.cun.y

,1,1 no .loubt ri«e more rapidly into ""l-^ ^^^J; j, ,;„,,,,. a raile abovo
The nulitary eBtabliHluueut or cam, of ^'^^ f ^ „^„,,,^i,, ,„ unit.torru,^
New Westminster, is a mo«t P-turesque Bpot c ^ ^^^^^^ ^, ,,,,,

view of the Uuoun's R^ach. a broad. <l2- '^^^ ^^^\, ,,, ,,„a of Burravd
,W the camp to Port Moody, an --^-^^^^^^^^ ^^,^,^ ,.,,een the two
inlet i. 4 mUoB in a North — ;;„,^:luctiou to the outer harbour
places and a waggon road is m -o^^^J^ , ,,,rk. At 5 nuh s

of the inh,t. which. -'-^--l'^:^^*;tT^n^t tL I'itt lliver, which runs
eastward of New Wostnunstor^« th -tuxnc^^^ ^^ ^^ _^^^^ ^^^^.^^^.^^ .^ ^^.,

in a general direction from N.N .1.. to • j mountains, and na-

iom a'rkable lakes enclosed ^^^^^^^^'^^XS^^^^^^ ^epth in places being
vigabletotheheadforvesseW H^^^^^^^^^ ^^^, ,,,,^ ,,th

far too great for anchorage A l^g^^ .^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^,,,,„,ed, or

Bides of the entrance of the 1 itt, w

partially so, d-ing ^ix weeW summer. ^^^ Westminster in an

DERBY or NEW LANGLEY is i- mi e. ^^^^^^^^

eastS^ direction, on the South or ^J^^ ^^J^^ ',,, ,pot wa.
between is deep, and there ^ "-^J^^^^^^^^^^^^ unobjectionable, having a
first selected as the capital, and as a town ^ J„„,^ ,,.i ,u the ro-

eonsiderable tract of good cleared land in 1^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ .^ ^^, ^^^,„,,

^uirements of a commercial port .the dp ^^^ ^^^.^^^,^^,

Blanca of GaUano and Valdez. I « n -- ^ .^^^^.^.W. from the

on the South and Atkinson Pont on the Nort^ ^^^^.^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ,,

Sand Heads of Fraser Elver, 20 miles ^. ^}

m'HHAint INLKT.

W')

lupy ^rnHH Innd.
usuly wooded ; ii
CO in the vicinity
Lving aspoct, mid
are botter known,

eors. a raile abovo

>r an unintorruptod

,Dt Hbeet of water.

e head of IJurrard

1 botween tho two

the outer harboni-

work. AtJmihs

Klver, which runs

terminating in two

luountaina, and nu-

pth in phices boint;

8 land lies on both

erally overflowed, or

Westminster in an
a river; the channel
ation. This spot wa^
jectionable, having a
hood, and all the re-

Uere is 10 fathoms,
ingley, the navigation
rapid for any vessels

Frasor, navigable for
,d by the natives pro-
ho main stream occurs
runs in a westerly di-
Sturgeon Bank, about
.artially wooded island

[US.

, in holes, and the bot-

nel.

ill indents the shores ot

8 the Brazo de Florida

I i8 between Grey Point

milesN.N.W. from the

n Tortier Pass, and '^

miles N E ^ E. from Entrance Island of Nauaimo. TIowo Sound immo-
diat.ly adjoins it on tho North, Atkinson Point, tho northern entranro po-nt
of tho iulot, being tho oastorn limit of the sound.

Tho entrance of the inlet is well marked ; Ore;, Point, a long wooded pro-
montory terminating in a rounded bluif, is very conspicuous from the sm.th^
ward, while Jiour,, hland, whi.h lies at the entrance of 1 lowe Sound, and may
also be said to form tlie northern boundary of the inlet, is very remarkable ;
itshighr.und and almost bare summit, Mount (iardner, reaching an eleva-
tion of 2,47'.) feet, is easily recognised from any point of view. Pansngo
Island, small but prominent, lies in the eastern passage of IIowo hound
midway between Bowen Island and Atkinson Point, and is an excellent mark
from the southward ; as before observed, Anvil peak, on with or just open
westward of this island bearing N. by W. i W., clears tlie edge of tho

Sturgeon Bank. . .

Burrard Inlet differs from most of the great sounds of this coast in being
extremely easy of access to vessels of any size or class, and in the convenient
depth of water for anchorage which may be found in almost every part ot
it its close proximity to Eraser Kiver, with the great facilities for construct-
ing roads between the two places, likewise adds considerably to its import-
ance Owing to these advantages, and from its possession of unb..undod p.ne
forests, two saw mills were completed in 186G. which now produce large
quantities of excellent timber, especially from the Douglas pine. It is divided
into three distinct harbours, viz., English Bay, or the outer anchorage. Coal
Harbour above the first Narrows, and Fort Moody at the head of the eastern

arm of the inlet.

EngUsh Bay is more than 3 miles in breadth at the entrance between
Grey and Atkinson Points, whxh bear from each other N.N.W. and S.S E.,
and carries the same breadth for nearly its entire length or almost 4 m, es;
it is contracted in some measure, however, by the Spanish Bank, dry at low
water, which extends in a northerly direction from Grey Point three-quarters
of a mile, and then curves easterly.

This anchorage is well protected from westerly winds by the Spanish
Bank, and as there is a good rise and fall of tide, as much as 16 leet at
Bprin^s and a clean shelving sandy beach at the creek, it would be a desira-
ble pLe to beach a ship for repairs. The head of English Bay on the S.
Bhore terminates in a shoal arm, named Fake Creek; on the North shore it
Itads by the First Narrows to Coal Harbour.

Coal Harbour is on the South side of the inlet, 2 miles within the First
Narrows Vessels intending to pass above the Narrows must attend to the
tides, and a stranger will do well to anchor in English Bay before pro-

ceeding higher up. , , xt i.

The Fust Narrows lie between the bluff of Coal Peninsula and the North
side of the inlet, where the breadth of the channel is not more than H cable
North Pacific.

..„,., I'.UITISII ('..M'^SIlllA, KTC

,i,„ a ,Vi.<h 01' l- la.lu.,ns. Wlu-u at tl.o .ntran... ol' tho Narrows. ,1...

''TirL>Rth of tl.o ti.lo in n,., ..avrowost .art.U' tho l."irst Navn..^ i.lVmu
4 t.. « Icuots. iho ..„ly .lin-ctions u-.cos.avy lor a st.amor ,u-o t,. koop tho
S.,a,h shorn al.oanl, au-l lo l.o 4'-^ ua.l carolul w.th tho holm ; B,nall eratt
,aay K'. tl'r..ui,h with oano. tho tido boing fuvourablo; to u sa.hng nh.p a
Ku.)\vIp.liroofth(ih.cality isnecossary.

It is li,h wa...r, full and .hango. at Burrard lulot. at ( p.m ; and .
vi^o iH l.i foot, Tho cl.b stroam eo.amenc.s diroctly it i« h.gh wator by tho
.h..ro, and runs out for two hoursafter it is low. Thoro is cun«e.iuontly only

4 hours' flood Firenm . ., ^,

BHwoon tho First and Second Narrow, a distanco of 4,i mdos, the courso
of tho inlet is E. A N., varying ii> breadth from half to 1 i mile. Tho S.o,.l
t : al sinnh. t.i tho'.rst. A bank of tho first desertion, butnu>.
exton.ivo, i. e.used by tho deposit brought down f^'^;'- ^^f^ "^ ^
by tho nu.norous stronn^« which empty thomsolvos mto tho >t3lot on tho No.th
• , . The channel is straight, and tho tides which run from to 7 k:.o a
iairly through it. Tho only dirocticms necessary are to keep tho bouth shore
close uboard, and steor from point to point. . , . " „„,,^nrd of

Port Moody.-Ti>o ontranco of this snug harbour -/ -'l^/^^^^;
the Second Nanws, at the head of the oastera am o t^.e xnlot. It ^ 3
xniles in length, and varies in breadth from a th.rd to half a mdo, excep at
Is entrance where it is only 2 cables across ; there aro no ^J^-' ^ "
uniform depth of water, with good holding ground. Abreast the tu n n,
^dnHnd on tho North shore, a bank dries off it for nearly 2 cables at lo.
wafer on which good oysters are found.

North im. iust before reaching Port Moody, and 3 mdes above th
Se^ fd Na^V , branches off from the main inlet, and runs m a genera
' ttrly direction for U mi.es. It is entirely different .n .s d.ar^ter r n^
other portions of the inlet. The depth of water vanes from oO o 11. fa
h ns Iditis enclosed on both sides by rugged n^ountams nsmg from
2 to 5,000 feet almost perpendicularly, and down the steep s.des of
^1 the melting snow in summer forces its way in foammg cascades, ren-
doring the surface water in the inlet below all but fresh

During tho winter months./W./. u.ter is to be obtamed xn all parts of Bm
.ard Inlet, and probably the whole year round there wouM be no sea ^y ,
n June hero I abundance at the creek in Engbsh Bay, «« -^^^
the anchorage. In r..rt Moody there is a fine stream close to the oyster

bank.

( ;(s7

lio Niirrows, tli«'
ho inlot. is ugiiiii

t NarroWH in from
tiro tit kfu'p tlu)

licliu ; HiniiU crult
a sailing sliip ii

A 6 p.m. ; and thn
li^'h wfttcr by tlio
i;ou8e(iiioiitly only

J miles, the courso
mile. The Siruml
jcriiition, but moio
10 high mountains
I inlet on tho North
Dm 3 to 7 knots sot
(op tho South shore

miles oastwurd of
the inlet. It is a
If a mile, except at
Qo dangers, and a
.breast the turning
rly 2 cables at low

3 miles above the
runs in a general
in its character from
from 50 to IK. fu-
untains rising from
the stoop sides of
iming cascades, ren-

1 in all parts of Bur-

auld be no scarcity ;

Bay, off which is

a close to the oyster

SnUTITEUN SriORR (»F TIIK STIUIT OF OKolJdl.V.

GABRIOLA REEFS are a. dangerous cluster of nxks, sonie of wln.h
cover at half II0...I, otli.^rs having a few feet water over thorn. They lie "i
miles olf tho eaiHtern point of Clabriolu Island, mentioned cm pago :ill unfr,
8 mill's below ''.e ontnuico of Nauuimo Harbour, and cover a spaee of half
a mile. From tho North point of Tortier 1'hsh, iho outer e.vtreme of tiie
reef bears N.W. .i N. 8 miles; and f; >m tho easternniost of the IMat-tup
Islands, a group of low woo.lod islets lying eluso oil the East end of (labriola
Ishind, K. .1 S. l.i miles. There is a passage inside the roofs, but it is not

recommended.

riie marks most convenient for vessels coming from tho southward are to
keep the North and S.W. entrance points of Tortior Pass just touching, ou
a bearing S.S.E. i E., which will lead more than a mile eastward, and work-
ing up, while tho first summit of Oabriola Island inside liorry Point is open
clear of tho Flat-top Islands, the reef will just bo cleared.

Westward of Flat-top Island tho shore of (hibriola is bold until near
Berry I'oint and Entrance Island, when it should not bo approached withiu
a long haU' mile. Foul ground extends for some distam^o eastward of tho

point of tho island.

Entrance Island lies half a mile N.N.E. of Berry Point, tho N.L. ex-
treme of Gabriola Island. It is rocky, 30 feet high, f..rmed of sandstone,
bare of trees, but has some vegetation on it. Vessels passing up tho strait
bound for Nanaimo should round this island. There is a dooi) passage be-
tween it and Berry Point named Forwood Channel, something more than 2
cables in breadth, which steamers or small craft may use; but the South
and West sides of Entrance Island must be avoided, as reofa and broken
ground extend 2 cables off them.

Having rounded this island at the distance of half a mile, or more if con-
venient, the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour will be distant 5 miles. There
are three channels loading to the harbour, viz.. Fairway, Middle, andlnni^r.
Fairway Channel is tho most convenient for vessels bound to Nanaimo from
tho southward or eastward ; but Middle Channel is certainly the safest and
most desirable for vessels from tho northward.

Fairway Channel is the most direct for vessels entering from the south-
ward or eastward. It lies between the shore of Uabri(da and Lighthouse
Island, which is a smooth-topped, grassy, sandstone island, 3 cables m
extent North and South, about 50 ft. high, and bears from Entrance Island
\V. by S. i S. 3 miles. A ledge of rocks 4 cables long in a North and South
direction, lies E.S.E. nearly half a mile from the island. Tho depth of
water is 9 feet on its northern edge, and 20 feet on its southern. The ledge
is generally covered with streaming kelp, and has a channel of 7 fathoms

[' '

ilffi)

333 YANCOUVEE ISLAND, ETC.

uutov between it a.ul the island; its North edge bears from the South point
of Lif,4itliou9o Inland N.E. by E, 3 cables, and its Southend E.S.E, nearly
half anile.

The breadth of Fairway Channel between this ledge and Eocky Point ot
Oabriola Island is full three-ciuurtors of a mile. For a distance of 2 cables
off the latter point from 4 to < fathoms, rocky bottom ^ill be found where
occasionally kelp grow,, but nothing exists which would bring a ship up^
A mid-channel course is recommended, which from a berth half a mile ofl
Entrance Island i. S.W- i W. for 3 miles. The water is deep and the
bottom irregular, varying from U to 40 fathoms. If to the southward of
mid-channel it will shoal to 15 fathoms, and shortly to 8 tathoms oft Rocky

Point, ,^ ^ . .

DIRECTIONS -naviug entered the Strait of Georgia, between East point
of Satuvna and Palos Island, a W.N.W. course for 38 miles will lead nearly
3 miles outside Gabriola Eoefs, and abreast Entrance Island, the latter
bearin- S.W., distant .5 miles. A vessel proceeding through Fairway Chan-
nel, if'northward of mid-channel must keep a look-out for the kelp on
Lighthouse Island ledge ; when Lighthouse Island bears N.W. steer S. i W.,
which leads for the entrance of Nanaimo Harbour, distant a little over 2
miles Stranger, should be careful not to mistake for it Northumberland
Channel, which latter lies from Lighthouse Island in a S.S.E. cUrection,
between the high cliffy "West coast of Gabriola Island and Sharp Point, a
rema .Kable narrow projeolion on the main, and off which, at the distance of
half a cable, is a rock which uncovers.

Having passed between Lighthouse and Gabriola Islands, there is a good
working space of ii mile in breadth, between Gabriola on the East and
Newcastle and Protection Islands on tho West, but the water is too deep for
anchorage The shores of the latter islands should not be approached within
a quarter of a mile, as shoal rooky ledges extead off them. Having brought
Gallows Point, the southern e:.treme of Protection Island, to bear b.W. i W.,
the town will open out.

A vessel may anchor, if necessary, with the high-water mark of GaUowa
Point bearing W.N.W., distant a quarter of a mile, which will be in the
fairway of the entrance, but it is diflicult for a ealUng vessel to pick up a
berth hero with a strong breeze, as the space for anchorage is contined,

NANAIMO HABBOUR, when the banks are covered, gives the idea of a
large sheet of water, but the deep part is limited.

The entrance lies between Gallows Point and the southern bank. A
rocky ledge extends for H cable on every side of the point, and in summer
is marked by kelp ; n large boulder stands on tho ledge off the point, distant
160 yards, and covers before high water. The South side of the channel is
the northern edge of the great shallow bay to the southward, which.

u*.

mmmm

NANAIMO HARBOUR,

.189

8 from the South point
uthend E.S.E, nearly

go and Eocky Point of
a distance of 2 cables
L will be found, where
'ould bring a ship up.
I berth half a mile off
i^ater ia dpep, and the
If to tho southward of
to 8 fatlioms off Rocky

»ia, between East point
i miles will lead nearly
iiico Island, tho latter
through Fairway Chan-
)k-out for the kolp oa
ars N.W. steer S. i W.,
, distant a little over 2
for it Northumberland
L in a S.S.E. direction,
and and Sharp Toint, a
?hich, at the distance of

Islands, there is a good
)rioIa on the East and
the water is too deep for
ot be approached within
tiiom. Having brought
land, to bear S.W.iW.,

i-water mark of GaUowa
e, which will be in tho
ling vessel to pick up a
ihorage is contined.
ered, gives the idea of a

the southern bank. A
point, and in summer
idge off the point, distant
h side of the channel is
the southward, which.

although it does not quite dry in this part, has only 2 or 3 foet on it at low
water, and is steep-to. The entrance is here marked on either side by a
spar buoy ab' ut a ciiblo apart in a North and kSouth direction ; within them
tho harbour opens out, but in its coutro is tho Middle Eank, 2 cables long
in a northerly direction, and half a cable broad, with a spar buoy on eitlier
end. Two narrow winding channels, the North and South, lead into the
usual anchorage, which is dose off tho town, and wf<Htward of the Middle
Bank. Both are buoyed in tho vicinity of tho latter, but no stranger should
enter either channel without a pilot.

A remarkable white patch on the cliffy shore of Gabriola Island just
open northward of the extromo of Sharp Point, the latter bearing E. by N.
i N., loads through the channel until near Gallows Point, which should bo
rounded at a little more than a cable's length. In the North channel two
spar buoys will then be seen, a cable's length apart, the southern one on the
North end of the Middle bank, the North one on South edge of the Satel-
lite Reef ; steer about West to pass between them, then liaul close round the
southern buoy, and steer for tho Mine Chimney. Anchor close off the town
in .5 fathoms, midway between the buoy and Beacon Rock, which dries at
low water, and has a buoy on it. The Soutli channel, though of sufficient
depth for large vessels, has a somewhat sliarp turn at its western end, but
is very convenient for vessels leaving with a northerly wind, when they
would bo obliged to warp out of the North channel.

COAX— Tho mines of Nanaimo produce a fair bituminous coal, which
answers well for steaming purposes. It is lighter by about 10 per cent, than
WeliHh coal, and its consumption proportionately rapid. The working of the
mines have not yet been undertaken on a scale commensurate with their im-
portance, probably owing to tho demand having been hitherto comparatively
small. As the quality of the coal, however, is becoming better known, the
deuiand is rapidly increasing. It is now exported to California in large
quantities, and ships ate inconveniently detained waiting for cargoes.
ISome new and very promising seams have lately been discovered by boring,
and the quality is said to bo superior to any hitherto found,

Newcastle Island produces large quautiviee, and the mines there are being
rather extensively worked, The .Nanaimo coal is far superior to any that
has yet been discovered or worked in this country, and there can be little
doubt but that it exists in sufRcient quantities to supply the whole Pacific
coast for almost an indefinite period. The present price is 25 shillings, or (>
dollars per ton.

Departure .Bay. —A long narrow channel or arm between Newcastle
Island and tho main leads in a N.W. direction from Nanaimo Harbour to
Departure Bay. It is H mile in length, and a cable in breadth, with 12 ft.
at low watt)r, except ou a rock, which has only 2 feet on it, lying in tho
centro, 2 cables north- wostwai-'i of .Rocky Point, the South point of Nenca&tle-

BaSiyi''

■T^m^Atut-

;.c,„ YANCUUVEK KSLANI), ET(\

Island. VesHuls of 15 or Hi feet draught may enter Departure Bay by thi«
channel at suitable times of tide, but largo vessels must enter northward of

Newcastle iHland.

Froiu Lighthouse Island, the entrance of Departure Bay bears S.W. .V\V.,
distant 2 miles, and lies between the steep cliffy North point of Newcastle
Island, and a small island to the northward of it. The breadth of this
channel is :? cables, and the depth 20 fathoms. Little less than this depth
will be found in any part of the bay, and it is not nearly so sheltered as
Nanaimo Harbour.

Vessels intending to load with coals (and there is no other inducement to
anchor here), should bring the steep North pohit of Newcastle Island to
T)car N. by E., and anchor in not loss than 18 fathoms, off the coal mine,
2 cables from the shore ; the bank runs up steep within this depth, and
shoals from 12 to 2 fathoms. Unless anchored well out, a vessel is liable,
with N.W. winds, to tail on the bank; and ships are not recommended to
lie hero after they have got their cargo in. A stranger should take a pilot
for the coaling station in Departure Bay, either from outside or in Nanaimo

Harbour.

Middle Channel lies between Lighthouse and Five-finger Island, U mi^o
W.N.W. Irom it. The latter is a bare rugged islet of about the same dimen-
sions as the fonner, but of trap formation, instead of sandstone ; the fivo
hummocks on it resemble knuckles more than lingers. The channel is per-
fectly frf'O from danger, and has a depth of 80 fathoms.

S.S.W. of Five-finger Island are three smaller islets of similar character
and formation, with some rocks about them which uncover. Inner Clutnnd,
■1 cables in breadth, lies between the above islets and the shore of the main,
and being more direct, is convenient for steamers or small craft.

Tides.— It IS high water, full and change, at Nanaimo Harbour, about 5
p.m., and the range of tide is sometimes 10 feet, which is as rauch as is
met with anywhere on the coast, and makes this a most eligible sp^t for
tlio construction of docks, for which it offers peculiar facilities. This great
range of tide only occurs at midnight during winter, and in the daytime in
summer. The superior and inferior tides exist hero as they do at Esquimalt
and among the Ilaro archipelago. On the opposite coa.'st, at Burrard Inlet,
this irregularity does not exist.

NORTHUMBERLAND CHANNEL, before mentioned as lying between
Sharp point and the western shore of Oabriola Island, runs in a S.E. direc-
tion for U n>'lp. fi"''^ then East for 2 miles, when it enters the Dodd and
False Narrows, the former on the South side of INIudgo Island, the
latter on the North ; a rock, which uncovers extends half a ('able off the
extreme of Sharp Point. False Narrows are shoal, with no ship passage.

I)o(hl Narmca Imvo been already described from the southward. They
communicate with the inner channels leading to the suuthorn ports, and

THE STKAIT OF GKolUilA

.101

Bay by thin
lortliward of

^S.W.iW.,
)f Newcastle
jadth of this
n this depth
sheltered as

iducomont to
tie Island to
iG coal mine,
s depth, and
jsel is liable,
^mmcnded to
I take a pilot
r in Nanaimo

land, U milo

same dimcn-

one ; the five

lannel is per-

lilar character
Timer Clutnnd,
3 of the main,
t.

rbour, about 5
IS ranch as is
giblo sp^i for
?. This great
he daytime in
) at Esquimalt
liurrard Inlet,

lying- between
n a S.E. direc-
Ihe Uodd and
3 Island, the
cable off the
hip passage.
:li\vfird. They
orn ports, and

savo a distance of 20 miles in the passage from Nunaiiuo to Vicloria or
Eaqnimalt.

The STRAIT of GEORGIA, ns already obsorvfd, commences at the
northern end of the Uaro Archipelago, and e.xtonds in a general W.N.W.
direction to (Jape Afudge, adistaiuo of 110 niih^s. There are many har-
bours, both on the Vancouver and continental .'^hores, and several i.slimds,
some of considerable si/(>, form otiior channels, all oC which are navigaljle.

The average width of tlio main strait wostwar<l of NiiiKiinio is aboul '.>
miles, diminisiiing at its narrowest part between Lawcjueti and the Uallinae
Islands, to .5 miles. The general de})th of water is griat, frequently over
200 fath(jms. The tides are not strong, and between Nanuiuio and Capo
Mudge there! are few dangers in the way of ships navigating the utrait.

The smaller channels on the continental shore are JIalas[)ina iStrait and
Sabine Channel, the former lying between the continent and Texhada Island,
the other separating Texhada from Lasquoti Island.

On the Vancouv(>r shor(> is Ballinac Channel, lying westward of tlio
i.sland8 of the same name; also Lambert Channel and Bay nes Sound, the
former between Hornby and T)ciiman Islands, and the latter dividing both
from Vancouver Island ; they will be separately described.

Tides. — The nuseting of the tides takes place iictwccu Cape Mudge and
Cape Lazo ; that is to say, the flood entering by Fuca Strait meets that en-
tering by the North end of Vancouver Island, within 20 miles of the former
cape, generally much nearer, but varying according to the phaais of the
moou and the state of the winds ; and at the point of meeting a considerable
race occurs, which would be dangerous to boats ; there is generally such a
race at the entrance of Discovery Passage. It is high water, full and change,
at Capo Mudge and Cape Lazo at about o.;U>, and the range during ordinary
spiings is from 12 to 14 feet. At the entrance of the passage during springs
the stream 'rims as much as from 4 to 6 knots au hour, the llood or easterly
stream being the strongest.

NANOOSE HARBOUR, at 8 miles westward of Nanaimo, will bo known l)y
the remarkable hill called Nanoose or Notched Hill, which rises between 000
and 700 feet immediately over its North side, and shows as a double or
notch peak from the southward.

The shore westward of Nanaimo is free from danger, and at the distance
of lialf a mile 20 fathoms will l>e found. Oil' the North point of the harbour
lie a group of small wooded islands ; the entrance is between ^laudv hlniul
(the southernmost of them) and Jilundcn Point, on tho South .shore of tiie
main, and is here nearly three-quarters of a mile in M-idth. Fntrautc liurk,
2 feet above high water, and 1.^' mile within Ijlunden Point, extends otf a
low majde flat on the South side almost into the middle of tiie harbour, and
contracts the width of the entrance hero to a «piarter of a mile ; within this
the hai'bour opens out to nearly a i"ite in width, and terminate.^; at the dis-

' .' ' ?j ' !?'ft':.- ' ii^'^W^^ '

r3Sfi55r«!5S®S}'^

531?r S»;st»' -TJ5^

j5C)o VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.

tanee of If mile in a shoal mud flat, which dries at low water more than
half a mile, aud where abundance of oysters are found. The only danger on
the North shore, in entering, is the North Eock, which lies nearly 2 cables
from the shore, and has 5 feet on the outer part. It is a spacious and well-
sheltered anchorage from all winds. ,, tvt .1,
Fresh water may be obtained from a cove at the head ou the North
Bide, and there is a convenient nook with a steep shingle beach, where a
vessel might be laid for repairs, if necessary, on the same side, a mile from

the head. . . r i- +

It is high water, full and change, at 5 p.m., and springs range 15 feet.
The COAST, for 6 miles westward of Nanoose, is strewed with numerous
small islands and reefs, the latter generally marked by kelp. The outermost
of them, Winchekea and Yeo Idands, extend between 1 and 2 miles from the
land, and beyond these there are no hidden dangers. The Ore;, liock^ bare,
12 feet above high water, and rather remarkable, lies 2 cables E.N.E. from
the East end of the Winchekea group. „ -r, . x, ^

Rudder Eeef, with a fathom on it, lies a quarter of a mile 8.L. i J^. trom
Grey Rock, and has very little kelp on it. This reef must be avoided by
vessels bound westward from Nanoose Harbour, and the S.E. end of the
WinehelBea Islands should be given a berth of at least half a mile.

Ballinac Islands, two in number, are larger than the groups just de-
scribed, and lio further off shore. They are about 2-50 ft. high ; the northern-
most one has bat two or three trees, and its summit terminates in a sharp
bare nipple ; the southernmost is wooded. They have the appearance of one
isVuid seen from all points. The islands are steep and bold on all sides, and
are conspicuous after passing westward of Nanaimo. Vessels bound through
tlio Strait of Georgia would do well to steer for tliem.

Ballinac Channel lies southward of the islands, between them an 1 the
fiuuiUer group which extend oif the coast westward of Nanoose. It is a safe,
clear passage, 1 i mile in width at its narrowest part, which is abreast Gerald
l.laud. Th. ■^.epth in mid-channel is 136 fathoms, and the shores of the
islands on both sides may be approached within a cable's length, if neces-
sary. The only danger in the channel in working through is Cottiwi ReeJ,
uhich has 2i fathoms on it, aud is generally marked by kelp. It lies on the
Buiuhern side. To steamers, coasters, or vessels with a fair wind, Ballmac
Channel is recommended.

North-west Bay is 5 miles westward of Nanoose. Miniahn Tdand, low,
wooded, and half a mile long, lies immediately olf its northern entrance
point, and S.W. i S. 2.V miles from the North Balliuac Island. The bay
indents the coast for 2 miles in an E.S.E. direction, making the peninsula
of the land which separates it from Nanoose Harbour. It is much exposed
to N.W. winds, and the water in it is very deep.

From North-west Bay the land trends, with a slight indentation, nearly

fer more than
silly danger on
early 2 cables
;ious and well-

ou the North
beach, -where a
le, a mile from

,np;e 15 feet.
with numerous
The outermost
miles from the
Irey Rock, bare,
es E.N.E. from

3 S.E. J E. from
; be avoided by
3.E. end of the
i mile.

groups just de-
h ; the northeru-
nates in a shai'p
ppearance of one
on all sides, and
is bound through

n them an! the
ose. It is a safe,
is abreast Gerald
\w shores of the
length, if neces-
;h is Cottam Beef,
lip. It lies on the
,ir wind, Bailiufl.o

tabjii Tdand, low,
lorthern entrance
Island. The bay
iig the peninsula
; is much exposed

identation, nearly

QUAT.irUM ItlVEli— HAYNE.S SOUND.

393

West for 1!) miles to Dennian and Hornby Islands, and to the southern
entrances of Baynes Sound and Lambert Channel. Tho land between Na-
noose and the Komox district, a distance of 24 miles, is undulating, and of a
moderate height, from the sea-coast to the base of the mour.iain ranges, a
distance of about 4 miles.

ftualicum River empties itself on this coast, 30 miles westward of Na-
naimo, and ;"> miles eastward of the eastern entrance of Baynes Sound. It is
a small stream, only noticeable as affording shelter to canoes or boats within
its entrance, and as being the terminus of the trail between the head waters
of Barclay Soimd and the eastern coast of the island, a distance of only 1 3
miles in a direct lino. Qualicum Bay is a slight indentation of the coast,
immediately West of the river, where very fair anchorage will bo found in
8 or 10 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile from the shore.

The mountain ranges westward of Nanaiuio are of considerable height,
tiiid very striking in their general features and varied outlines. Most con-
spicuous amongst them, and midway between Barclay Sound and the East
coast, rises Mount Anowsmith to a height of 6,000 feet. Its remarkable
summit, terminating in three sharp, well-defiued peaks, is rarely free from

snow.

Denman and Hornby Islands lie immediately off the coast, 34 miles west-
ward of Nanaimo ; the former is 9 miles long in a W.N.W. direction, or
parallel with the coast, low and generally wooded, with an average width of

2 miles.

Hornby Island is much smaller. Over its western side rises rather ab-
ruptly a remarkable flat-top hill, Mount Geoffrey, 1,070 feet high; on its
eastern side it falls gradually, and terminates in a low, bare grassy point.
The eastern side is indented by Tribune Bay, affording good aachorage. On
both these islands there is a considerable quantity of good land, particularly
on the latter, also fresh water ; and from the nature of the formation, it is
probable that coal seams will be found to exist.

Denman Island is separated from the main by a good passage called
liaynes Sound, and Iloniby Island from Denman by Lambert Channel.

Yellow Idand is small and bare, 80 feet liigh, and generally of a yellow
colour. It lies close off the S.E. point of Denman Island, is remarkable,
may be seen for several miles, and is a good object to steer for coming from
the eastward, as it forms the eastern entrance point of the sound. Maple
J\>mt, which forms the western, is also very remai-kable ; it lies S.W. by W.
1 V mile from Yellow Island, and is low and covered with maples.

BAYNES SOUND, separating Denman Island from the main, is a long
juiiTow sheet of water, with an average navigable width something over
half a mile, and with a general depth of 20 to 2() fathoms, so that vessels
may, if necessary, drop an anchor in any part ; there are, however, two
very fair anchorages, Fanny Bay on the South or main side, and Henry Bay

•rm&^mm'^^s^)Sism;!^3^S!'^^^^ry

.31)4 VANCODVEli ISLAND. ET(^.

on tho North or island side. At tho distance of 14 miles from the eastern
entrance of tho sound is Port Aur/unta, into which flows tlie Courteniiy River,
one of the largest streams in Vancouver Island, and in this immediate
neighbourhood is a largo extent of good clear grass '.and.

Tho exit into tlio Strait of Georgia by the N.W. entrance of the sound,
between the North end of Denman Island and Capo Lazo, is nearly 2 mih3S
in width, but a remarkable bridge or bar of sand, strewed with large ttones,
extends the whole way across, and at low water there is as little as 12 feet
on it (page 395). During summer it is thicldy covered with kelp, which
never altogether disappears. The bar is very narrow, and is always smooth.
Towards high water vessels of 19 foot draught may safely pass either into or
out of the strait by this channel.

A sand-spit, which dries at low water, and is rather steop-to, extends one-
third of a mile from Mnple Poiiit.

Deep Bay.— Maple Point, from the extremity of the trees, turns sharp off
at a right angle to the W.S.W. for half a mile, and forms a low sandy spit,
in shape resembling tho i mg beak of a bird; within this is Deep Bay, in
which the depth varies from 15 to 20 fathoms, irregular bottom, but sandy.
It is a small, and not very desirable anchorage.

Fanny Bay, on tho southern side of tho sound, 4 miles within Maple
Point, affords a good though somewhat limited anchorage. Base Flat, the
delta of a considerable stream, having its rise in the Beaufort range of
mountains, forms its western point ; and Ship Point, a bold wooded bluff,
its eastern. Entering from the eastward, give Ship Point, and the coast of
the peninsula immediately eastward of it, a berth of a quarter of a mile,
and anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms in the middle of the bay.

Village Point, on Denman Island, with a large native settlement on it, is
remarkable ; it is 2 miles N.W. of Fanny Bay, and a sand-spit extends a
short distance off it.

Henry Bay.— Denman Island, towards its N.W. end, falls away into a
remarkable wedge shape, terminating in a singular sharp beak-shaped ex-
treme, called Beak Point ; the hollow of this beak, on the N.W. side of the
island, forms Henry Bay, which is nearly 6 miles from Fanny Bay, find is a
safe and convenient anchorage, though, like the latter, it is somewhat limited

in size.

From Beak Point a series of sand-banks, some of them above water,
others covered, extend in a N.N.W. direction for a little more than 2 miles.
Sandij Island, the largest of them, is two-thirds of a mile from tho point, and
6 feet above high water, with largo bouldor stones dispersed over it ; there
is a good boat passage through at half tide. North-west of Sandy Island,
and the same distance, is Whife Spit, which almost covers, and is very re-
markable from the number of clam shells collected on it, giving it an ap-

TOUT AU(RT8TA, ETC.

39A

im the eastern
urteniiy Eiver,
lis immediate

of the sound,
nearly 2 mil(3a
h large f.tonos,
ittlo as 12 loot
h kolp, which
ilways smooth.
3 cither into or

), extends one-
turns sharp off
low sandy spit,
Deep Bay, in
om, but sandy.

within Maplo
Base Flat, the
,ufort range of

wooded bluff,
[id the coast of
irter of a mile,

jment on it, is
-spit extends a

lis away into a
eak-shaped ex-
W. side of the
y Bay, and is a
mewhat limited

1 above water,
3 than 2 miles.
I the point, and
1 over it ; thoro
■ Sandy Island,
and is very re-
iving it an up-

poaranco of a white sandy beach ; it is also connected with Sandy Island at
very low tides.

Kelp Bar. — The end of the shoal, which occasionally dries in patches,
extends two-thirds of a mile N.AV. of Whito Spit, and from it commences
the remarkable kelp bar or bridge before mentioned (page H!)-!), which con-
nects Donman Island with the land about Cape Lazo, distant nearly 2 miles.
The bar is composed of sand, interspersed witli large boulders, which can be
seen at low water. Gr<;at quantities of kelp grow on it during summer, and
it is rarely entirely without it. To cross the kelp bar over its narrowest
part and in the deepest water, a vessel should stand '2J miles through tho
sound, north-westward of Henry Bay, until a rather remarkable whito beach
'3n the western shore. West 13 miles from Boak Point) is brought to bear
S. by W. J W., then steer out boldly N. by E. i E.

Port Augusta, in the N.W. corner of Baynes Sound, although apparently
a large sheet of water, its upper part is a mud flat, which almost dries at
low tides, and is formed by the Courtenay Eiver, which flows into it. From
White Bluif, before mentioned, a remarkable elbow-shaped tongue of land
named (t'oone. ^Spif, projects to the southward and westward; it is grassy, witii
one or two hillocks, and bare. Goose Spit forms tho northern entrance
point of the port, and Grassy Point the southern ; tho latter is very low and
swampy, the delta of a considerable stream. 00' it, at low water, sand
and boulders dry for 2 cables, and the water shoals suddenly from 10 to 1
I'm thorns at tho distance of ^ cables, leaving a width of less than a mile
between the entrance points.

Within Goose Spit is an excellent place with a S.E. gale, though no sea to
speak of could get up in any part of Port Augusta.

t'mirtenay River is a deep and rapid mountain stream, but on account of
falls and other obstructions is only navigable for a IfVf miles for boats and
canoes ; it has its rise in Mount Washington, having a considerable extent
of rich grass country on either side.

2[()unt Washington is remarkable, and rises to 5,400 feet; it is the western-
most of a range 10 miles in length, terminating in Mount licvhcr to the East;
to the southward and westward of it are several high mountain ranges and
peaks from 4,000 to 7,000 feet above tho sea, the highest summits being
covered with snow all the year round.

Tho Beaufort lianr/e rise on the western side of Baynes Sound, 7 or 8 miles
from the coast, and stretch for 12 miles in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction,
varying in elevation from 4,500 to 5,400 feet; they are very remarkable,
presenting 7 or 8 distinct summits, which are rarely free from snow. This
range, together with Mount Washington, form the eastern boundary of the
great central valley and chain of lakes which run through the length of
Vancouver Island from the head of Barclay Sound.

Lambert Channel, bctv.'een Denman and Hornby Islands, is a safe

:i:

■mm^»0it-!t^~''i^.

t^P^:

?a7^isa«s«s^38^*afe^'»siA^"«»-''* «.««*« ■j'^afe^i*'-

HSS^r^KSS

398 VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC.

paPBage running 6 miles in a W.N.W. and N.W. direction. It is a mile

^•ide at its southern entrance, gradually increasing to the N.W. as it opens

into the Strait of Georgia. The general depth of water is from 25 to 30

fathoms, shoaling to 16 fathoms on either side within 2 cables of the shore.

Coming from the southward. Yellow Island marks the western entrance

point, while Mount Geoffrey, a remarkable flat-top hill, 1,070 feet high.

on Hornby Island, rises over the eastern side of the channel ; either ot these

may be steered for until approaching the entrance, when W.N.W is a mid-

ohannel course through. . , v *

On the eastern side is Norrix Rock, of considerable extent at low tide, bnt

at high tide, a mere patch 5 or 6 feet above water; it lies N.E. i N. H mile

from Yellow Island. j oi.- i

The eastern side of Lambert Channel, between Norman Point and Shingle
Spit a distance of 2 miles, has two groups of covering rocks, extending
nearly 2 cables off, and the shore should not be approached within a quarter
of a mile. Shingle Spit is a remarkable low point on the eastern side of the
channel, 2 miles within Norman Point.

Off the North end of Hornby Island stands a remarkable boulder rock, 7
or 8 feet high, with smaUer ones near it, and vessels should not approach the
shore in this neighbourhood within a long half a mile, at which distance are

7 to 10 fathoms. , „ , , u

Tribune Bay, on the S.E. side of Horby Island, affords good anchorage
with all but easterly or south-easterly winds, to which it is quite open. It is
easy to enter or to leave, and conveniently situated as a stopping-place for
vessels bound either way, being 35 miles West of Nanaimo, and 40 eastward
of Cape Mudge and the entrance of Discovery Channel.

The eastern end of Hornby Island tenninates in a rather remarkable point,
called St. John, grassy, and bare of trees. Off it, in a S.S.E. direction, are
2 or 3 small low islets. Some reefs which generally break extend nearly
luilf a mile outside the iulets; these should be given a berth, and it is not
recommended to pass nearer than half a mile to the N.E. of the Coast of

Hornby Island.

The outermost of the dangers off the West point of Tribune Bay, is a 1-
fathom rocky patch, called the Nash Hank, which must be carefully avoided.
It is a quarter of a mile in extent, and lies N.E. by E. nearly a mile from
Point Downes, the western entrance point, and S.W. by S. from the largest
and outermost of the low islets off Point St. John. With a leading wind it is
recommended to pass the eastern side of the bay within a short half a mile,
and to steer up for the white sandy beach as soon as it is open, anchoring
v-ith the eastern bluff of the bay bearing E. by N. ,i N., 3 or 4 cables from
the eastern shore, in 2 fathoms, sandy bottom. There is anchorage, if de-
sired, in 4 fathoms, much closer in.

CAPE LAZO will be seen after passing the eastern end of Hornby Island,

«^.«.

CAl'E MTTDGH.

:?<>7

It is a mile
'. as it opens
om 25 to 30
)f the shore,
orn entrance
ro feet high,
ither of these
W is a mid-
low tide, bnt
iN. IJ mile

it and Shingle
ks, extending
;hin a quarter
rn side of the

tnlder rock, 7
t approach the
h distance are

)od anchorage
te open. It is
ping-place for
id 40 eastward

aarkable point,

direction, are

extend nearly

, and it is not

)f the Coast of

le Bay, is a 1-
refully avoided.
y a mile from
rom the largest
ading wind it is
art half a mile,
pen, anchoring
)r 4 cables from
ichorage, if de-
Hornby Island,

from which it bears W.N.W., distant 15 miles. It is a reinarkablo sixlient
point about 250 foot hif^h, Hut and grassy on its summit, but uootiod behind,
and falling abruptly to the sua in yellow clay clilfs. Although a boltl-
looking headland, shoal water extends a considerable distance off, and
it is recommended not to approach its eastern and south-east sides nearer
tlian 2 miles, as only l^ fathoms, uneven bottom, is found at the distance of
lj[ mile.

Mittlenatch Island, at IG miles N.W. of Cape L«zo, is half a mile in ex-
tent, 200 foot high, bare and peaked. Between it and the Vancouver Island
shore, distant nearly G miles, is the fair channel to Cape Mudge and Dis-
covery Channel.

Oyster Bay. — From Capo Lazo the coast trends W.N.W., is moderately
high, and slightly indented with boulder beaches, which makes boat landing
attended with danger unless in very calm weather. At the distance of 15
miles is Kuhushan Point, the southern extreme of a large but not very deep
indentation, named Oyster Bay ; Shelter Point, nearly 4 miles W.N.W. from
Kuhushan, is its northern extreme. There is fair anchorage in 10 or 12
fathoms in this bay for vessels waiting wind or tide. A roof extends half a
mile eastward of Shelter Point ; 4 miles north-westward of Oyster Bay is
the entrance to Discovery Passage.

CAPE MUDOE is one of those peculiar headlands so frequently met with
on this coast, and resembles Point Roberts and Cape Lazo, except that the
yellow clay cliff which forms its face is more covered with vegetation. The
cape is between 200 and 300 feet high, flat, and wooded on its summit, fall-
ing to the westward as it enters Discovery Passage with a low boulder point.
The high land of Valdes Island appears behind it from the south-eastward.
A boulder beach extends in a semi-circular form from it to the eastward, and
at the distance of 2 miles in this direction the depth is not more than 5
fathoms. The western low part of Cape Mudge should not be brought v, est-
ward of W.N.W. in entering or leaving Discovery Passage.

DIEECTIONS.— The southern shore of the Strait of Georgia, with its
anchorages and smaller channels, having been now described, a few remarks
will be offered on the navigation of the main strait.

From the coast of Gabriola Island abreast Nanaimo, to the opposite
shore of the continent, about Burrard Inlet, the width of the strait is 1 4 miles,
the navigation free from danger, and the strength of the tide between 1 and
2 knots an hour. Coming from the southward, Mount Shepherd, on the
South end of Texhada Island, is a very remarkable object, and shows
as a high solitary peaked island standing in the middle of the strait ; it is
2,900 feet in elevation, and is plainly seen in clear weather moi-e than 30
miles off.

Proceeding westward, the long and comparatively lo^'' island of Lasqueti
rises above the horizon, its singidar bare turret-shaped summit 1,000 feet

398 mJlTISlI ("0M:MBTA, F/fr

l,i.l, .......ntin^r an unn>iHtakoaM.. f..atu,v. Tl.,. r.allin... an.l s,nall.-vi>lM„.l^

wo J-ard of tlu.n. will u.,w so..n lu- nuul- on,. Wlu-n ah.vas. th.. f.-nu..
tlM.Mi.ltlM.f,lM..hann..l.ontra.tHto.l mil.s h..lw.vu tl.-.u and th. >.nall
i.,au.l ol' San,st,.r, olltl.. H.H. .n.l oi Las,neti ; al^.v uln.l. i;/'!-- -''
asain to 7 .nil..H. an.l th.. ratl.or muarkal.ln tlat-toi.!-.-! Mount O.oih.-y o.
th.) W.-st .M..1 nC llornl.y Island will 1... l-lainly H-.a. The Hontlnn-n coas
of La«.,.i..ti is hold, with no dan^.Ts oil it which aro not h.... .x.q^t Sal

Ko..ks.whi..h ..over at half ti.hs and h. U n.il.> West -.f San.stor sland;
„n' its W..st .n.l arc tho sn.all ^^ronpn of Flat and Ban< Islands, hnt no hul.h.n
dang.>rs. Fals., Hay. whi.h in.lents its Wost oud, is expos-.l. and n..t n-
fonuuondt'd as an anihovaj^fo.

Th.. Sist.TH Isl..ts arc th.. next r..nnirkahlo «hi....ts ; they ar.. two sn.all

l,,,.,kro..ksl.. feet ahovo high wat..v. S.W. hy S. from tho W..st punt o
Lasciu..ti, with a dc...i> water channel ..ver u mile wide lK.twe..n then, .md
Flat Islands. When abreast the Sisters, the main strait turns t,. th.. ^ .^ . VN •
between then, and II..rnby Island f..r 1 mih.s, and th..n resumes .ts ..nK-n"!
trend to th.. W.N.W. The distan.'e between the Sist..rs and 1 ...nt M. Jom,
the h,w bare East point of U.n-nby Island, is 5 miles ; the latter with th..
snuvU islets oif it, sh.,uld bo given a berth of nearly a nulo The Sisters ar-
bold on aU sides, but sh.ndd not be approached too cb.s., "^^^^J^f
vinds, as the tide sets straight past them. Having passed 1 mnt b . J..h..
the distance to the entran,.e of the Discovery Passage is 88 nulos The stru.t
.nonntains a uniform width of 9 miles, until near Mittlenatch Island, ..rf..r
30 miles, the only stopping places being Oyster 15ay, already ^^^^^^^'
nailes from Cape Mudg... and Gillies Bay, on the AVest side of lexhadu Island.
The shore of Texhadu Ishmd is bold.

N0ETIIEI5N SIIOEE OF THE STliAlT OF GEORGIA.

HOWE SOUND was thus named by Vancouver after A.lmiral Earl 1I.)W...
and NN as called Brazo de Curmelo by Galiano and N'al.les. It is immediately
a.lioining Burrard Inl.,t (page 384) on the North, and is an extensive though
vrobably useless sheet of water, the general depth being very great, whde
there are but few anchorages. It is abnost entirely hemmed in by rugged
and precipitous mountains rishig abruptly fr..m the water's edge to eleva-
tions of from 4,000 to G.OOO feet. There is no available land f.>r the settler,
and alth.,ugh a river of considerable size, tlie SquawmUt, navigable f.n-
boats, faUs into its head, it leads by no useful or even practicable route into
the Ulterior of the country.

sin(illi'i'i-liMi(l-
isl tlif ioniH'i'.

iiiul the >*iiiiill
■li it u|i(MiM (Hit
ml Ut'iill'ri-y on
) HOlltlKTIl const
I'll, oxri'iit Soul
iun,;stt'r Isliiml ;
Ifi, Imt nohi(l<lt'ii
■d, 1111(1 not ri'-

r iwc two siimll
i> West point ot
tAvecii tluiiii mill
Hto tlioN.N.W.
uiiu'H itH orij^iniil
(I I'oiut St. John,
Inttor, with tlif
The Sisters UK-
in cahu or lit;ht
I I'oint St. John,
uiihsH. The strait
ch Ishind, or for
!!uly (l(-scribe(l, 1
[' Texhiidu Island.

JEORGIA,

Imival Earl IIom'o.
It is inimodiatoly
n extensive though.
; very great, while
ined in by ruf2;ged
■r's edg(! to oleva-
laiid for the settler,
iM, navigable for
acticable route intc

THE STiaiT y^W (lEoiailA. fl99

The eufrnneo is between Atlanson roinf, tlic Nnrtli |ioiiif oC nnrrurd
Iiilc'f, and (iiiwer roiiit, nearly 1- luiles ajiart. Tlie suiiiid jieiietrates tie-
eoiitinent in a northerly direetioii lor 20 miles, and althoiigli of sui h eoii-
siderabh) width I'nr nearly 12 miles of its Icngtli, yet it is ehoki'd by some
liirge anil numerous smaller islunds, between whi<h ar<' several ship iiu^Huges,
r.dwt'ii Islinid. the hir^est and euNternmost, is remarliable, its highest .'■immit
rising to nearly 2..")0(> feet, being round, sniootli, and partially hare, unmis-
tnkeably pointing out the (iitiaiiec from any diroetion ; liie islund is 7 mik'H
ill length ii" a iiMitiierly dii rtioii, and more than 3 in width.

Queen CharL te Channel, the easternmost pas.sage into Howe Sound, is
between linwcu Islinid and Atkiiisr)n I'oint ; I'assagc Island, hall' a mili' long
only, but very prominent from the southward, stands in (he cfiitre of tlu*
ehannol, and on eitlier side of it is a deep water passago. A tide ripple is
IVeijuently met with olf Atkinson Point, caused by the mooting of the ebb
.streams from the sound and liurrard Inlet.

Snng Core. — Northward of I'assage Island 1;,' mile, and oii the eastern
shore, is White Clilf I'oint, and opposite, on the JSowon Island sliore, dis-
tant l.V mile, is a double-headed cove. Snug (Jove, the soutliernmost of
these, though narrow, affords excellent anchorage to small craft in!t fathoms,
slieltered from all winds ; J>ifp Corr, the northernmost, is larger, but
with a S.E. wind, when anchorage woidd bo most roipurod, a swell would
sot in.

Vessels linund to I'ort Uraves, which is the imneipal anchorage in the
.sound, should pass westward of Bowyer Island between it and Hood I'oint.
the North point of Bowon Island. TJie latter is a rather remarkable low
Hat pcuiinsula point, with a small high clilly island lying olf it.

lUnmd up the sound by Queen Charlotte Channel, a N.N.W. d.urse leads
mid-channel ; pass eastward of White Roc'k, Centre Island, and Auvil Island,
through Montague Cliannol. Tfliite Ruck is a small but remarkable islet, 30
feet high. Aitvil Inland is oval-shaped, and '6 nules long, and its summit.
Leading I'eak, 2,7 10 feet high and very remarkable, resembles the horn of
an anvil pointed upwards. Erom almost all parts of the strait of Gi'orgia,
this peak appears as a most promiiuMit object ; it is au excellent leading murk
to clear the shoals off the Eraser liivor by bcMug kept just open westwaitlof
I'assagc Island, on a N. by W. I W. bearing.

Montayiw Vhannel, 5 miles above Bowyer Island, and between Anvil Island
and the eastern shore, is a mile wide, and over lOU fathoms in depth, trend-
ing first to N. by W. for 7 miles, when it runs to the eastward for a fuiiher
distance of 4 miles, terminating in a low drta, through which Hows the
h\(jU((iniihht River. The sound carries its depth to the head and shoals from
100 fathoms suddenly to 2 fathoms.

Collingwood Channel, to the westward of Bowon Island, b(>tween it and
the group of smaller islands which stud the centre of the st)und, is the most

-.'.f^lSSi

^SK#;sa»=ga*

-Xr^^eWi^-

40O BRTTTSn COLTIMmA, KTC

diroct routo to Port Grav.-H. In .«....'.in« Loth nhoro^ aro .toop and bold ;
tho direction of the, ,.hann«l for ■. nuh^s in North, itn w.dth uhout u nnh.. and
th. Konoral d.,.th varioH fro„. T,.) to lOO futh.nnN. Tho nnwdl .shu.ds l.,rm.n«
thn wost..rn si.h, havo no .lan«orK hut what aro vi^ibhs ox...Tt V.^a^" Hor
whi.h li..K ahn.,Ht nudway L.twoon AVorhomln. an.l ranh-y InhindH. and

(sovorH at half tido. ,,

Barfleur Passage lion to tho wostward of tho central group of small
iHlandH. hctwoon thorn and Koats I«lan.l. It is a nafo nhii, c umnol. hut not
.luit,, HO wido a. tho ono last dosorihod. A ro..k, which hroa cs f]-'':'^''''
extends IJ cable into the channel westward fn.rn the Hocond ol tho .slandH
in tho entrance. The passagoH bofwoen the muall inlandn are not recon.-
mend(^d to bo iisod tmlosH ])y .'oaHting vessels. , . , ,

Shoal Channel, the westernmost entrance to Howe S.mnd. is between
Keats Island and tho nminlan.l of Oower Point. It i« convenient for vessels
coming from the westward, and loads to I'lumpor Cove, a Bnug an-horago
on the N.W. side of Keats Island.

Tho South point of Keats Island, which forms the eastern pomt ot on-
trance to tho channel, has a small but prominent and thickly wooded island
lying close off it, Home Islan.l. From a little within this island a bar of
sand and shingle extends quite across tho channel to tht steep cliffs of the
mainland; tho greatest depth over it. at low water is 15 feet, ^^^^^ that m
the centre of the passage, which is hero half a mx^^ in width. Iho width
of the bar in tho centre is not over a quarter of a mile.

Plumper Cora—Immediately after crossing the bar of Shoal Channel, the
water deepens to 20 fathoms, and two small islets, partially wooded, and
almost joined at low water, will be seen N.N.E. a mile off; between them
and the shore of Keats Island is Plumper Cove, which is perfectly secure
with all winds, and however hard it may be blowing outside, it is generally

a calm here.

Thornborough Channel is a continuation of ho one just described, and
leads up tho western side of the sound, between Gambier Island and the
main. Its direction after passing Plumper Cove is N.N.W., and at the
distance of 6 miles is Woohidge Idand, rather on the eastern shore ; the
wider channel lies westward of this island, but there is over 100 fathoms of
water through Latona Passage to the eastward of it. Passing Woolridge
Island, the ai-m turns to the north-eastward, and northward of Anvil Island
leads to the head of tho sound.

Gambier Island, lying in the centre of the sound, immediately northward
of Bowen Island, is abnost square shaped, and 6 miles in extent either way.
On its western side rise two very remarkable cone-shaped mountains, over
3,000 feet in elevation ; the southern face of the island is indented by three
Tery deep bays or inlets, in the easternmost of which only is convenient an-
chorage found. Port Graven, the easternmost of the three bays on the South

p]i nn<l I'll'l :
it II mill', iiii'l
lantlrt t'i)riiiiiiK

IhIiuuIh, iintl

roup of HinaH
imnol, but not
( at low wtttor,
•r tht) islands
!•(( not roroiii-

ul. is bf'twoon
iont i'orvt'Hsc^is
iiig ani'horago

1 point of en-
woofled island
sland a bar of
»p cliffs of the
t, and that in
:h. The width

al Channel, the
ly wooded, and

between them
perfectly secure

it is generally

described, and
Island and the
W., and at the
itern shore ; the
• 100 fathoms of
ising Woolridgo
of Anvil Island

iately northward
stent either way.
mountains, over
idented by three
8 convenient an-
ays on the South

'r:;\iiAi).\ isi.and-saimnk cii \nni;i-. i"I

fiilc (if (ianiliiiT IsIiiihI, is flic ])i'iii(i|iiil im(lii)raj;i' in ilowi' Suiiiiil. It ih
iilHiiit H TiiiliM friiin fill' nitraiici', ami may In- ri'iiilii'il willi ;j:ri'ut rmility !•>
ritliiT iifflic ( luiiiiiriM ulniidy dcHcribi'il ; its I'litniiiii' will iml, Imwcvrr, I'l'
viTV ii|ipiiri'iil t(i n MtriitigiT, ii itil cldMiiifj; llnpi' [Miiiit, wliirli runns its msii'm
Nidi'.

The Coast frinn (liiwiT piiiiit, till" wi'sti'riH'iitniiiii'or liiiwu SimiimI, tri'iiil-*
W . i S. fur IH iiiili's 1(1 till' ontranr'd (if Miiliispiiia Striiit. iiml is tVi'c from
diin^i'i'. U'hili' hlvt, u bare rock, SO feet high, lios l.J niiln IVdiii tlic Hliorc
(1 mill's wi'stwiird of Odwcr pdiiit, and is ri'iiiarkiilili', alwiiVN nlid\\ iii;^ vri'v
wjiitc : fliori' is doi'p watt r cIusk tii it and insidn it. At 4 miles N.W nf lliis
i-ilit the idust rix'cdi's and fiirnis Trail liay. Thoro is a very nmrki'd dnip in
the land at the licad of this bay, anross whirli, by a p(irtiigi> of 1,1(10 yiiiils,
till' niitivi'S ciirry tlii'ir caiidcs into S(>i'cli('lt Arm, onu of tlio iiuiiiv iiriiis nf
.li'i'vis liili't. The Trail Isli'fs, four in number, lii! somethiiig nidrc tliiiii
half II mile iilf the western ond (if this bay.

Tliormanby IhIiukIs, two in number, almost joined, and upwards of 2 miles
in extout, are 18 miles from (rower puint, and fdi-m tlio S.E. entninco pdiiit
of Malasjiinri Strait.

TEXHADA or Favida Island, lying par.illel with and dn the ciistcrn
side of the Strait of Georgia, is '27 miles in length, with an average widtli nf
scarcely 4 miles. TJirdughout its whole length stretches a ridge of rugged
trap niiMintiiiiis, wooiled generally to their summits. At the southern end,
Mannt S/ii'ji/irrd reaches a height of L\!tO() feet. Towards the iKirtlierii end,
the range decreases in elevation, but tiiere is scarcely an acre (if cultivable
hind throughout the island. Its shores are steep and bold on all sides, and
the land rises abru]itl3', except at the North extreme.

The only iinchdrage, and ^'i.it merely a stoiijiing place, is (Jilles bay, (Ui
the S.W. side r^uige 398).

LASaUETI ISLAND lies parallel with Texhada, at its S.E. (;nd, and is
separatc'd from it liy a channel about a mile in width. Its h.'ngth is 'J miles,
its average width sdraetiiing more than 2 miles, and it is remarkable from a
singular tnrret-shapod summit 1,000 feet high, called Jfoioil 7h'mrf(iii, rising
nearly in its centre. On its southern side are several boat coves, and in
Tuidcer Bay, on the northern, there is very fair anchorage, with some good
land in the neiglibcmrhood. Hiiuoxtfr InUiml, half a mile long, lies S.S.W.
a mile from Young point, the oa.stern extreme of Lasi^ueti.

Jenkins Inland lies 3 miles westward of Sangster, and close to the Soiitli
sliore of Lasejuoti. The Sea Egg Rocks, always xmcovered, lie 3 cables off
its West end.

STEVENS PASSAGE, between the Sisters Islets and Lasfpieti, is upwards
(if a mile wide, and perfectly safe and clear. Flat Islanda, on its ea;?tern
side, should be given a berth of a quarter of a mile.

SABINE CHANNEL, between Texhada and Lasrpieti Islands, is a good
^'/„•f/t racific. 2 I)

1
,i

:'m^msm ^ m mt 's^'im ^ :i »^ if S >{ s.*;,y*s ssi'\^AVT^^ "i'.-:'..^*

' -'■■>- ' T"

402 lU.'lTISll ('Ol.UMIUA. FIT.

Shi,. PUS..KU 9 mil... louf,. in u.aHy an Eusi a,ul West .lin..ti..n with v.ry
.1.01, watm. ; lis bv.a.ltl. at tho w.^ton. eud 1. =3 miles, but sov-ral ugU ..Mu-
ral islauclH Iviug ..ff th., N.E. si.lc^ of Lnsqucti contract tho wi.lth a tl...
..astoru .m.l/in s.nnc parts t., thr....-c,uarters of a milo. Th...- js a Uo a
narrow l.at.l...n> chann..l, llull iVs..^^ to the s.mthward of th.'s.- .slan.ls, hy
k.-cpin- C1..S.. aL.nt,^ tl.- Lasqueti slum-. Tucker lUvj, ..n th. ^orth sulc .-I
l.ttsqucti. aa.l c.p.i.Ustant IVoni cither ....1. is a very fair anchora^^^

MALASPINA STEAITisa w id., navi-ablo channel, scparatin^^ A.-xha.la
Island fr..,u th.. naahdand. Its general .lirc..ti..n is W.N.W. f..r :50 nu cs,
wlunita^^■.incnt.n•s tho Strait of G.-.-r.^ia* between Marshal. 1 oint, tl.,-
N W extreme of Texhada a.al llarwo.)d Island ; its southern entrance lies
between Upwood Point, the S.E, extreme ,.f Texhada, and the w.^st.-rn ol

the Thormanby Islands, and is 1 miles in width.

f.>^wrfi>./«Msru-edandpr...3ipit..us; stunted pines ^row between tin.
,.v.>vices of the bare trap r.,ck, tic lan.l iK-hind more thic.kly wooded. Almost
immediately over it rises Mount Did; a very remarkable hump-shaped hill
1,100 feet high, and 3 miles within is Mount Shepherd, the hij,^hest summit
of the island. A overinj,' rock lies 2 cables olf the point.

Thormanby Islands, before mentioned, lying close to the mainland, and
appearing as part of it, terminate at their N.W. point in a steep clay clit ,
off which, at low water, dries a boulder point. The Texhada shore is bo d,
and ahnost straight for its whole length, fronted by narrow shinglo or boulder

beaches. ,

JERVIS INLETt is one of the most considerable of those numerous and
remark-able arms of the sea which indent the continent of America from th.>
parallel of Fuca Strait as far as lat. 00° N. It extends by winding reaches
in a northerly dir..ction f..r more than 10 miles, while its width rarely exceeds
U mil(% and in most places is even l.-ss.

Neither in a .■onuuereial point of vi.-w, as a refuge for shipping, or as a
means of ...muauni..ati..u with the interi..r of the .•ountry, does it appear
lik.dyevertooccapvanyv..-yF->"'i"">'M'l'^«'". '^^ i* ^^ 1"'"'"^°^^ "'■ °" "^^

. It was m this vart th.t Va.>co,ivor mot, U- hi. ^v.M. Burrri.- an.l mortitination. with

n n two Snanish su vovin^ v.ssok which had i,roce.ied hin.. Th-.o were tho bng SuUl,

: :; n i:: .^l tho Bchooner Mc.ieana, under Don C. V.ado. dotaehed h.. t e

:tmi.ion u,ul..r Mala^ina. iVom whom, however, ho m.,t w,th the na.st pohtc aud

'Tl!'^"-^ o.I,.l.., named hy Vaneouv.. aftc. A.imiral «ir John J..v.. is the
bI^ I - 'l. of (..liano and Val.h.. Comn.uder K. C. Maync, K.N., attael.d to
1 urtyllerCapUunCi. 11. H.ha.ds, . U .is way through the dense love.t and
hirst^-nthehea.lot..,n.vis InU. and IVt Pemheiton, on the Fn...- Kn-er, m
i J^ GO tho details of whuh anU.ous journey are given in his interes.n^, work, Chaptor
li It was thought that this might be a goo.l lou- ■ ai the coast to the uH.er part ot th,.
Fjasir, hut thi" jomni.v .li.>iuHed sa.-h a notion.

rtMl

JKRVIS INLET.

40.1

■(•dioii, with vi'i'v
sovt-rul liij^li t-'>'ii-
tho width lit llif
Thcro is iilxo ii
f thcs(> islands, by
till,' North sidt? "T
ichor ago.

'paratiiig T(-xhail;i
.W. for 150 mill's,
arshall I'oint, thf
itheru outruiice lius
iid th(> Avostcrii <pl'

grow ht'twoen tin.!
:ly woodud. Almost

hump-shaped hill,
he highest summit.

the mainland, and
II a steep clay cliff,
shada shore is bold,
w shingle or boulder

those numerous and

)f America from the

by winding reaches

width rarely exceeds

ir shijiping, or as a
atry, does it appear
s hf^nmiod in on all

! ami moititination, with
lewe were the brig Sutil,
V'alJcs, (Ifitached from the
•ith the most pi)litc aud

1 8ir .lohn J(!rvis, is tho
Mayne, U.N., attached to
i,!,'h tho dense forest and
on the FruKcr Kiver, in
interesting work, Chapter
.st to the upiier part of the

Hides by mountains of tho most niggod n7ul stupendous oharaotor. rising tVom
its almost porpondioular shores to live, six, and sainotinios oi.ii-ht tliousarnl
feet. The hardy ])ino, which flotirishes whcro no other hw cJiu fiiul soil io
sustain life, holds but a feeble and uncertain tonun- hero ; ai.d it is not iin--
conmion to see wliolo mountain sides denuded 1,.y the blast « of winter, or the
still more certain destruction of tho nvalaache whiiii acconipaincs tho liuiw
of siunmor. Strikingly grand and magnificent, there is a solnnmity in tho
silence and utter desolation which in-evail here during tlu months of winter,
not a native, nor a livhig (reature to disturb tli(> solitude, and tlio'igh in
summer a finv miserable Indians may occasionally be r.iet wiih; and viie re-
verberating echo of a hundred cataracts disturb the silence, yet the di'solatiun
remains, and seems inseparable from a scorns which tuuurc^ nevor inlondod as
the abode of man. Tho depths beh)w ahnost rival the height of tin* monu--
tain summits; bottimi is rarely reached under UOO fathoms, tfveii doso to tho
shore, and frequently at much greater depths ; there are a f -v' spots ^vhoro
vessels may drop an anchor, but they are ei'iior open and expo-'od, with an
inconvenient depth of water, or from the nu.iowucss of their entrance nro
only adapted to stoan\ors or coasting vessels.

In tho Vancouver Island Pilot, the various channels and shores are de-
scribed at length, but as there appears to be but little to interest geiierai
commerce in this remarkable fiord, we shall make but brief extracts
therefrom.

The entran(!o of the inlet is between Francis Point and Scotch Fir I'oint,
■which are 12 miles apart in a W.N.W. direction. Nelson Island lies imme-
diately in the centre, and divides it into two channels, tho westernmost boing
the principal one.

Agamemnon Channel, the eastern entrance to the inlet, is 9 miles N. by
W. from I'oint Upwood. After running between Nelson Island and tii.o
main in a general northerly direction for 9 miles, it joins tho main cliannol
of the inlet. Its average width is little more than half a mile, the tides run
from 1 to 3 knots, the d.^pth of water varies from oO t(j 100 fathoms, and it
affords no anchorage. There are three passage's into Agamemnon Channel.
The middle, between Channel Islets and Pearson Island, and the easternmost
between the litter and Martin Island. The passages are about the sumo
width, som'ithing ever a quarter of a mile, and have deep water. Ve-sstds
entering )/,y the western passage, or coming from the wc^stward along the
shore of Nelson Island, must avoid tho Nile Hoc/;, which covers at (luurtoi-
flood, atamiloS.^'^ bv W. ' AV from Foarm^y Point, the 8.E. point of
Nelson Island, and the same di..tance West from tho largest Channel islet.

Pender Harbour is the only anchorage deserving the nanu\ with a mo-
derate depth of water, to bo iound in tho neighbourhood of Jorvis Inh't,
and its entrance is so eiuumbered by islands as to vondor it diHleult of
access to anything but steam ov coasting vessels; it immediately adjoins

'J n 2

404

BRITII^II COLUMBIA. ETC

the Agamemnon Cliunnd on the Soutli, ii:i(l lies E.N.E. tliree-cjuurteis of
a mile fVuni I'c •arson Isliiiul, Indentin)^ the coaHt for miles in the suiiih
direetion.

The Western Entrance of J(>rvi8 Inlet is between Alexander Point, the
Sonth extroTae of Hardy Island, on the East, and Scoteh Fir Point on the
West. The points are not remarkable, but the opening is readily made out.
It is nearly 2 miles in width, and takes for a short distance a N.iN'.AV.
direction. Scotch Fir Point is rocky, and has two small i.slets lyirg close i<^
the westward of it, which, like the point itself, are covered with stunted
pines. Thunder Bay, formed on the western side, IJ mile above Scotch Fir
Poin't. M one of the few sjjots in Jervis Inlet where a vessel may drop an
anclior, and. lieing near the entrance, is likely to prove convenient.

Nelson Island, in ^be middle of the entrance to Jervis Inlet, is 10 miles
lon^if in a northerly directioa, and about 4 or 5 miles wide. The island is
mowW^inous, the suntmits ranging f^-om 500 to 1,000 feet in height. Cape
Ooolrbnvn, its 8.W. pf>int, is of white granite, about 80 or 90 feet high. A
rock lies 1 cable Sonth of it.

Prince of Wales Reach. — Dark Cove, whieh affords a snug anchorage on
the West side of Jervis Inlet, within the Sydney Islets, is 2 miles North of
Captain Island, and 12 miles tri>n:i the entrance. Vancouver Bay, on the
East side of the inlet, 1!> miles from the entrance, is about half a mile in
extent, and of sfjunro .shape.

Princess Royal Reach. — Deserted Hay, also ir the East side of the inlet,
at the termination of Princess Royal Reach, and about 37 miles from the
entrance, is small, and affords an indifferent anchorage in its eastern part.
A valley extends from the head of the bay to the N.E., through which a
trail runs to the Lilooet i^akes on the Eraser River, and is much frequented
by the natives in the summer season.

Queen's Reach. — The head of Jervis Inlet terminates in a patch of low
swampy land, through which flow some small streams ; it does not afford
any anchorage, there being 2.5 fathoms within half a cable of the outer edge
of the bank. A iomarkal)le peak. Mount Victoria, rises 2 miles North of the
water's edge to a iif'ight of 7,452 feet, and is a very conspicuous object on
approaching the head of the inlet. Prt/ircnn Louisa InM, on the Ea^st side of
Jervis Inlet, 5 miles below the head, is nai-row, and about 4 miles long in
an E.N.E. direction.

Seechelt Arm, the entrance to which is on the East side of Jervis Inlet,
1 mile North of Agamemnon Channel, is an extensive arm of the sea, pene-
trating the land for 17 miles in a south-easterly direction towards the Strait
of Oeojfgia, and only aepaiated from the latter by a low neck of land 1,100
yards wide, forming an extensive mountainous peninsula to the westward,
ealled Seechelt I'eninsula.

TidM. ' it is high water, at full and change m Jervis Inlet at hours,

BARWOOD AND EAGGED ISLANDS.

40.')

-quarterly of
in the sam*)

r Point, tho
Point on tho
ly made out.

a N.iN'.W.
yirg close to
ivith stunted
i Scotch Pir
may drop an
)nt.

, is 10 miles
Che ifcdand is
eight. Cape
eet high. A

mchorage on
ilea North of
Bay, on the
alf a mile in

of the inlel,
iles from tho

eastern part,
mgh which a
3h frequented

patch of low
,069 not afford
he outer edge

1 North of thf*
ous object on
.e East side of
miles long in

' Jervisi Inlet,
the aea, peno-
irds the Strait
of land 1,100
the westward,

lot at 6 hourt<,

the risp and fall being aliout 14 feet; within tho Seechelt arm the rise and
fall seldom exroeds G or 7 foet.

Harwood Island, off the Wt^st entrance to Jlalaspina Strait, H milo from
the continental shore, and about 3 miles N.W. of Point Marpliall, is 2^
miles long in a northerly direction, and \\ mile wide, from loO to 200 feet
high, flat, and thickly wooded. There is deep water between the island and
th(i shore.

The COAST.— Westward of Jorvis Inlet, tlie North shore of Malaspina
Strait runs in a westerly direction for 11 miles, terminating at Grief Point.
For a considerable distance inland it is low, and bordered by a sandy beach.
Tliere are iin ofi'-lying dangers that aro not seen.

From Grief Point tho North or continental shore of the Strait of Georgia
runs in a W.N.W. direction for nearly 20 miles almost straight to Sarah
I'oint, tho S.E. entrance point of Desolation Sound.

Savary Island, nearly 6 miles W.N.W. of Harwood Island and 1 mile
iioiH the continental shore, is 1 miles long in a W.S.W. direction, but nar-
row. A sandy beach, strewed with huge boulders, surrounds it, and extfuds
a considerable distance otF its North and West sides, which should n^ , bo
approached nearer than lialf a milo. The height of tlie i.sland varies from
HO U) 120 feet, and tho South side is faced by some romarkablo white sandy
(lid's, very conspicuous from the S.E. Its East extreme is a granite clitf,
steep-to. A sandy bar or ledge, of 1 to 2 fathoms water, extends from its
West point to Hernando Tslanu, Ilurtado Point, on tho main abreast Savary
Island, is about 250 feet high, bold and cliffy.

Mystery Rock, apparontb- a short distance to tho eastward of Savary Island,
is of small extent, and uncovers at low water. TTncertuinty exists as to ita
e.xact position, but during the survey the rock was twice seen by Mr.
Bedwell in 18()2 from tho South point of Harwood Island, though not
from anywhere else. Vessels, therefore, in navigating this locality should
observe great caution when going between Savary and Harwood Islands,
but by keeping within half a mile of the continental shore this danger will
be avoided.

Ragged Islaiids, close to the continental shore, and running parallel to
It, are a rocky group of small island.s 2^ milos long ; their S.E. part is about
2i miles N.W. of Hurtado Point, and some rocks extend 4 cables from their
N.W. oxtrtme. I'tliite Inlet, a m.io to the S.W. of them, is a very re-
markable bare white .rranite rork, about 70 feet high. A rock, which un-
covers at low water, lies 1 cable East of it.

Sarah Point, at 20 miles W.N.W. of Malaspina Strait, mny be called the
N.W. entrance fioint of the Strait of Georgia. It is a rounding rocky point,
sloping gradually to the sea from a lieight of about TOO feet, at a phort dis-
tan.e within it. Tlie coast here turns sharply round to tlu ( aatward into
MukiBpiiia Inlet.

4,m BIUTISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

Hernaado Island, 2 miles Went of Savary. and 3 miles NN.E, of Mittle-
naU.h Island (page 397), is about 2 mile, in extent, ilat tluck y --o^- - ^ ^
ln,m l... to 170 foot hi.h. A l.d.e, cu„u.o.s.d of sand and huge boulder ,
L" ds two-thi,.ds of a milo from its S.E. point. St., Bay, on tho North

ido of Hernando, affords anchorage, and is useful us a .torpmg-placG for

vossels bound t.. Bute Inlet or Desolation Sound.

Baker Passage, to tho northward of Hernando Island, and leadmg fr m
the Strait of Georgia to the entrance of Desolation Sound, ,s about . mdes
l.n>^ in a north-easterly direction, and 1 mile ..ulo in the narrowe t part,
b i^g bounded on the North side by Cortes and Twins slan. -. The only
dan.'er is at its N.W. entrance point, off which a boulder ledge extends
u;Jardsof. cables in a south-easterly direction. Tho Centre Eoc^J^
covers at a quarter flood, is in tho middle of the passage between the Twins

Idands and Cortes. ^i, „f rrwiTia

BIM Creel., on the East side of CorteB Island, 1^ mdo North of Twms
Island, is a basin of about 4 cables in extent, but useless as an anchorage.

LEWIS CHANNEL, off tho entrances to Desolation Soimd, between
Cortes and Redonda Islands, to the westward of the latter, runs nearly
straight upwai-ds of 12 miles in a north-westerly direction, and vanes in
breadth from 1 mile to 3 cables, widest at the S.E. part; its shores are
generally rocky, low in the South part, but rising gradually to the N.W.,
Bteop-to, and everywhere free from danger; no directions are necessary lor

"^^Ir, on the West side of Lewis Channel, 4. miles f^i Turn
Point, the S.W. entrance point, is a small land-locked basin of 6 to 7 fathoms
water, with room for a vessel of considerable size to lie at single anchor. It
i. entered by a narrow passage about 130 feet wide. Squirrel Cove can only
be entered by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair wind, and the chart is
tho best guide. There nre no dangers whatever within or near it.

Northward of Squirrel Cove the West side of Lewis Channel becomes
more rocky, and gradually increases in height ; n takes a northerly direction
for a mile to Junction Point, and then trends to the N.W. for 7 miles, the
channel ending at Bullock Blulf, the North extreme of Cortes Island. _

Kinghorn Island, in the South entrance to Desolation Sound, and forming
the S.E. point ef entrance to Lewis Channel, is about 2 miles ^^^ "^^""J"
ference, and from 400 to 500 feet high ; it is cliffy, and steep-to on the S.W.

or cliannel side, , ^ e ti,

SUTIL CHjSlNNEL. — This extensive cliannel, which leads Irom tne
western mrt of the Strait of Georgia to the entrances of Toba and Bute
Inlets, is bounded on the East side by Cortes, and on the West by Valdes
nnd Pv.'ad Islands, Its lencth in a northerly direction is 15 miles ; and tne
breadth at its entrance to tho ?',rait of Georgia 6 miles, decreasmg to one
mile in the northern part. Tho soundings in mid-channel are deep, though

•limiiiiM

191

.E, of Mittle-

Y wooded, and
.11 go boulders,
oa tho North
piiig-placG far

leading from
about J miles
arrowest part,
. ,. The only
ledge extends
'e Hock, which
reea the Twins

^forth of Twins
n anchorage,
oiind, between
jr, runs nearly
, and varies in
its shores are

Y to the N.W.,
•e necessary for

niles from Turn
)f 6 to V fathoms
iglo anchor. It
ol Cove can only
and the chart is
jar it.

hannel becomes
rtherly direction
for 7 miles, the
!S Island,
nd, and forming
miles in circum-
>to on the S.W.

leads from the
Toba and Bute
West by Valdes
( miles ; and the
eereasing to one
iro deep, though

roiJTKS ISLAM).

•hi;

tlioro aro several daiiprcTH (,11' li.)tli shores near tlio noutliorii parts, but north-
ward of Mary island it is (|uite clear.

Tiiere are sovoval good anchorages on eitlier side, two of wliidi, Drew
ITarbour and Carrington I'.ay, are oawy of access to all vessels, aud useful as
f,t(H)piTig-plaeos.

Tho tides in the Sulil Cliunnel are weak, seldom oxcoeding 2 knots. Tlio
flood stream runs to tlio northward from tho Strait of Georgia. It is high
water, at full and change, at 6 hours, and tho rice and fall is 12 feet.

CORTES ISLAND— Tho AVest side of this island, whiiih forms f lie eastern
boundary of Sutil Chamiel, is generally low, and indented by .several bays
and creeks, in many of which good aiuliorago may b(.' foiiiid. (Mf R(U)f Point,
its South oxtrenio, a ledg(>, composed of sand and boulders, extends three-
ciunrters of a mi](>, and covers at three-quarters flood.

Gorge Harbour, tho entrance to wliich is on the West side of Cortes
Island, 4. V miles N.N.W. from Reof Point, is 2 miles long in a w(«sturly
direction, a:'d 1 miio broad iit the idost part, all'ording good anchorage in
!> to 12 fathoms. The entrance to .c is through a narrow gorge nearly Iialf
a mile long, bonnaid on either side by steep cliils about 200 feet high, and
less than 40 yards wide in some I'laees, with fi fathoms in the shoalost part.
The tide runs through ii fnmi 3 to 4 knots. The best and most convenii-nt
anchorage is in the West part, about half a mile from the entrance.

In entering Gorge Harbour, which can only be done witli a favourable
tide, imless in a steamer, after passing Guide Islets, steer boldly up tho
gorge or entrance, and take care, on nearing its North part, to pass between
Tide Islet and the West shore, tho passage East of the islet being shoal,
when haul to the N.W., pass on either side of the Bee Islets, and anchor
in from 10 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom, 1 or 2 cables to the westward

of them.

Jlan/ hhind, on the East side of Sutil Channel, about .'i miles N.W. by
W. i W. from Reef I'oint, is of a round shape, about r. miles in circum-
ference, and from 70 to loO feet high; extending upwards of a mile in a
S.S.E. direction oif its South point is a ledge about 2 cables wide, called tlie
Boulder Reef, which covers at high water. Cawp Mind, off tln^ West ex-
treme of Cortes Island, aud 7 miles from Reef Point, is of small extent, and
n-ooded ; between it and Cortes Island is Plunger Pass, about ;5 cables wide,
deep, and clear of danger.

Carrivgton Bay, on the N.W. side of Cortes, about .1 miles from Centre
Islet, is a mile deep in an easterly direction, about :] cables wide, and allords
anchorage at a distance of 3 cables from its head. Von Ihmp Creek, the
entrance of which is -H miles from Centre Islet, is long and narrow, pene-
trating Cartes Island in a .sfmth-easterly direction for upwards ot ;! mile-.
There is good anchorage in .5 to (> fatlioms near its head, but the entrance.

•108

IMJITISIT COLUMBIA, ETC.

a voHsel should not uso it as a

l)()iug i>iily ao yards wide in houio plucos,
stoinjiiig-pliicc.

VALLJiL- ISLAND— Cape Mudgo, the South extreme of Valdos Island,
and tho S.W. entrance point of Sutil Channel, has been described in p. 'Ml.
A bank extends in a south-easterly direction for some distance from tlio
capo, and until well inside the channel the cape ought not to be approached
within 2 miles. The coast of Valdes turns sharply round tho capo to the
N.N.W., running in a straight direction for ^ miles.

Drew Harbour, on the East side of Valdos, G miles from Cape Mudgc, is
about 1 mile deep, iJ to 4 cables wide, and rendered perfectly secure, and
locked by a narrow strip of land called Jiebecca Spit, which forms its eastern
boundary. The anchorage, in 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a distance
of half a mile from its head, is the best in Sutil Channel ; its shores are low,
and bordered by a sandy beach.

Uyacintlw Buy, on Valdes Island, and 1.} mile N.W. of Drew Harbour, is
of small extent, with from IG to 20 fathoms water, but affords no anchorage.
Open Bay is half a milo North of Hyacinthe Bay, and separated from it by
a rocky point. A vessel should not anchor there.

Hoskyn Inlet, formed between Eead and Valdes Islands, on the East side
of the latter, is 7 miles long in a northerly direction, with an average
breadth of two-thirds of a mile. The shores are broken and rocky, with
some small islands ofif the South entrance and along the East side, and there
is no anchorngo within it, except for small craft.

READ ISLAND, bordenng the West side of the N.W. part of Sutil
Channel, is 9 miles long in a northerly direction, and from 1 to 3 miles
broad. Its southern part is low, but rises gradually to the northward to
1,600 feet in some places. Viner Point, its South extreme, is bare, and
about 40 feet above high water ; it lies 7 miles North of Cape Mudge.

Burdwood Bay, on the East side of Eead Island, 2 miles from Viner Toint,
is about a mile wide, 2 to 3 cables deep, and contains several small islets.
There are 12 fathom'j at a short distance off shore, in its North and Soutli
parts, where a vessel may stop in tine weather, but the bay is open to the
South and East.

Evans Bay, tho next inlet on the East side of Eead Island, to the north-
ward of Burdwood Bay, is about 3 miles long in a northerly direction, l.l
milo wide at the entrance, and branches off in two narrow arms near its
head. Its shores are rooky and much broken, and there is no anchorage
e.xcept in Bird (''ove, on the West shore, where small craft may tind shelter.
IVederick Point, the N.E. point of entrance to the bay, is bold, and may bo
approached to 1 cable.

J/i/I Maud, just outside the entrance of Evans Bay, is of small extent, but
conspicu(jus from its centre, 190 li,et high. The shores are rocky, and may
be iipproached to a i|uarter of a mile.

Ill I— uiimi

Dt U80 it as a

Valdo8 Island,
ibed in p. o!)7.
ance from tlio
bo approached
10 capo to tho

ipo Mudgo, is
ly Heciiro, and
•uis its eastera
, at a distance
shoros are low,

iw Harbour, is
i no anchorage,
ted from it by

u the East side
th an average
D.d rocky, with
side, and there

'. part of Sutil
m 1 to 3 milt;s
e northward to
le, is bare, and
3 Miidge.
om Viner Point,
ral small islets,
orth and South
T is open to the

d, to the north-
ply direction, l.V
V arms near its
is no anchorage
nay tind shelter.
Id, and may bo

mall extent, but
rocky, and mu}'

("ALM ClIAWEL— lUJTE INLET.

•I (lit

Penn Islands, near the middle of the Sutil ('liannei, to tiio northward of
Evans J3ay, cover an extent about IX mile long and I niilo wide. They are
rocky, covered with stunted trees, and their greatest elevation is about 270
feet. A vessel should not venture among them, but there is a clear passage
on their East and West sides.

Directions. — Entering the Sutil Channel from the Strait of Georgia, pass
within half a mile on either side of Mittlenatch island, and steer N.W. by
AV'. or N.W. J W. for the entrance, taking care to keep the North side of
Texhada Island open westward of Hernando and Savary Islands E. by S.,
until Camp I.sland opens West of Mary Island N.N.W., to clear the reefs
extending otf the South points of Cortes and Mary Islands (p. 107) ; when
dear of the latter danger haul more to the northward, steering about N.N. W.
or N.W. by N., and passing about a quarter of a mile westward of Centre
Islet, steer up mid-channel, going, as most convenient, on either side of the
Penn Islands.

A vessel may beat through this channel, but till past the dangers in the
South part it would not be prudent to near the West sides of Cortes and
Mary Islands witliiu 1 A mile in standing to tlio eastward ; and in standing
towards Capo Mudgo do not approach it within 2 miles, or bring Mittle-
natch to the eastward of E. by 8. J S., until tlio capo bears S.W., when a
vessel may stand to half a mile of tho Valdes sliore. If intending to an-
chor, Drew Harbour and Carrington ikiy are easy of access for any class of
vessel, and but little out of the regular track.

Calm Channel, to the North of Lewis and Sutil Channels, leading from
them to Bute Inlet, is 9 miles long in a N.W. by W. direction, and about 1
mile broad ; its shores rise abruptly to a great height, are everywhere clear
of danger, and the tides weak, except in the N.AV. part. This channel is
not well adapted for any vessels except steamers, as there is generally but
little wind, and no anchorage. No directions are Ee.essary for navi-
gating it.

Stuart Island, at the northern termination of Calm Channel, and in the
cni;ranco of Bute Inlet, is about 4 miles in extent, of an undulating surface,
rising in some parts to 300 and 1,000 feet. Its shores are rocky and clear of
danger.

BUTE INLET.— This extensive arm of the sea, which penetrates the con-
tinent for nearly 40 miles in a winding course to the northward, presents
many similar features to Jervis Inlet, the general breadth varying from 1 to
2 miles, and the shores on either side rising abruptly and almost precipi-
tously, in many places to stupendous mountains from 5,000 to 8,000 feet
liigh, whose summits aro generally covered with snow all the year round.
At the head are two extensive valleys, one penetrating to the N.W. and tho
«»ther to the S.E., from which How streams, tho one to the westward, calh.d
by tho natives Ihmalko liiicr, is irivigablo for a long distance by bouts and

;

■mr-

5^;rs'!tK4£a«iwr-':i-!!:i»se.':

5rnBSK.;"^sirsr-.ES5^ ~

^,0 BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC

^t,.rn-^Thool stoamcrs of light .IrauKht. Of tl,.se riv.rs some sand-banks
extend a short distaneo, aih.rding iudilhTent underage near the.r out.r
<m1-os • hut tho souudingH everywhere else iu the inlet nro very deep. Tlio
waiter for some distance from the head is nearly fresh, and of a milky wlnte
appearance. In tho summer months there is a constant out.i.t, varying in
strength from 1 to 2 knots. ^

A direct route from tho coast to tho Cariboo country, by the way c. Bute
Inlet, was partially carried into etiect in 1864, and a small wharf was erected
at tho mouth of the llonmlko River. These solitary posts are very dan-
gerous residences, and some frightful tragedies have occurred at them. The
wholesale massacre of the white occupants has boeu more than ouce per-
petrated by the bloodthirsty Indians.

Bute Inlet has more recently been proposed by A. Waddington, Lsq.,* as
a terminus ..f a railway and steam-b<.at route between the Atlantic and
I'acific Oceans. F. Wliymper, E^q., fiives an interesting account of a visit to
a great glacier at its head.

Arron Eapids, at the entrance of the inlet on the West side, between
Stuart Island and the continent, are 2 cables wide in the narrowest part.
The tides rush through with great strength, the flood from the westward ;
and it would be very hazardous for a vessel to go through them except at

slack water. . „

Orford Bay, on the East side of the inlet, 19 miles from the entrar.ce. is of
small extent. A small vessel may use it as a stopping-place.

Waddington Harbour, at the head of the inlet, being in fact its termina-
tion is about 2 miles in extent, and affords an indifferent anchorage off the
edge of the banks, extending from the Homalko and Southgate Rivers and
off it« East shore. Except in the vicinity of the rivers, the land rises almost
precipitously to 4,000 and 5,000 feet, is most sterile and rocky, covered with

stunted pines.

Homalko or Homathko River enters Waddington Harbour on the A\ est
8ido, and is a stream of consideiablo extent, winding to the N.W. through
H large valley. At the entrance is a bar with only 1 to 2 feet over it at low
tide but within the water deepens to 1 and ?, fathoms. Homalko River
and AVaddington Harbour are likely to become places of some importance.

. Mr Waddington spent ftvo years in procuring information respecting his proposed
inter-oceanic route. His plan is to form a railroad from tho head of Bute Inlet, through
the Cascade Range to the junction of tho Quesnelle lUvor with the ^-^ ^^^ ^ J.'"*--
of 2"2 miles. This country was quite unknown till thus explored by Mr. AVadUmgton.
From this point on the Fiaser there is a direct route to the Cariboo country, and ho
ivlor is navigable, upwards, for stoam-boats for 2S0 miles up to the Lea^.er or Yel ow
Head Pass through the J{ocky Mountains, from theuco the route towards Canada uy ho
Saskatchawan River, has been well surveyed. The details of this plan are gncn m tho
Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, 1808, vol. xxxviii. pp. 118-1'Jb.

'' ?""V ^ ^ ' "g- ' ^- ^'^ : '' -V-" ** ?^^

■'H- wi" T}--^ -T j r r ff.'»ri / i^

10 snnd-banks
ir tlu'ir oiitt^r
ry doi'p. Tho

11 milky white
■t, varying in

e way ri Buto
irf was erected
aro very dan-
at thorn. The
han once per-

rton, Esq.,* as
3 Athuitic and
int of a visit to

side, between
larrowest part,
the westward ;
hem except at

I entrance, is of

act its termina-
uhorage off tho
ite llivers, and
nd rises almost
y, covered with

ir on the West
N.W. through
t over it at low
Eomalko Eiver
aie importance,

:ting his proposed
itc Inlet, through
r River, ii distaneo
■ Mr. Waddington.
country, and the
Leather or YeHow
"ds Canada hy the
iin arc given in tho

DISCOVEKV 1'.\8SA(;E.

•ill

as, from the sources of tho former, an easy route has beendi-icovered to the
gold-mining regiuus in tho far North of British Columbia.

In navigating 15uto Inlet but few directions aro required, as tlio points
may bo everv where approached to half a cable, and, if iuttauling to anchor
in AVaddingtim Harbour, when nearlng it steor for it.s North port, anchoring
about three-(|uartors of a uule off tho head in l.'i fathoms, and about '<i cables
from tho high northern shore. The anchor should bo dropped immediately
15 fathoms are obtained, as tho bottom tshoals rapidly.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Calm Channel at 7 hours,
and the rise ami fall is 14 feet. In Bute Inlet it is high water at 6 hours,
and tho rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet.

DISCOVERY PASSAGE, formed between the West side of Valdes Island
and the Vancouver shore, is tlio only known navigable outlet from the
North part of the Strait of Georgia to tlie N.AV. Its length in a N.W. and
JS.E. direction from Cape Jludge to Chatham Point is 23J miles, and its
average breadth a litiie more than 1 mile ; but at Seymour Narrows it
contracts to less than half a mile. Its shores, southward of the Narrows,
;ire moderately high and apparently fertile, but northward of them steep,
rugged, and mountainous.

Tides. — Southward of Seymour Narrows the stream runs with great
strength, from 4 to 6 knots at springs, and turn at high and low water by
the shore. At the southern entrance, near Cape Mudgo and between it
and Willow Point, heavy races or tide rips rage during the Hood, which
would be dangerous to small vessels in blowing weather. It is high water,
full and change, at 5^ 30"", and tho rise and fall is about 1 1 feet.

Northward of Seymour Narrows the streams are comparatively slack ;
(hey run from IJ to 2.V hours after high and low water. At the Narrows
it is high water, full and change, at 4 hours, and the rise and fall is about
13 feet.

In Discovery Passage, when to the southward of Seymour Narrows, the
soundings in mid-channel vary from 30 to 60 fathoms, except at 1 mile
N.W. by W. from Cape Mudge, whore a shoal patch of 8 fathoms exists. la
(Seymour Narrows the least water in mid-channel is 35 fathoms, but north-
ward of them the depth increases to 100 and 140 fathoms.

Cape Mudge, with the bank off it to the south-east, have been already
described in p. 397. From it the West side of Valdes Island takes a north-
westerly direction, and at the distance of 3 miles is a small indentation
named Quathiasky Cove, bordered by a sandy beach. The cove is only fit for
f-teamers or small craft, and only affords room for one vessel to moor in its
S.E. and another in its northern part. The land between Cape Mudge and
Quathiasky Cove is about 100 feet high, flat, and fertile. An Indian village
of considerable extent stands midway between the two places.

Gowlland Harbour, the next opening in Valdes Island, about 5 miles

?»iSiss>*»a»i«»3»e^Ei'SM»err.7.ss«»;i'^'^'''S^^^^

■^

.112 imiTISn COT JIM HI A, ETC.

N.W. of Carn Mudgo, is of (•(.iiHidprnblo oxtont, bein^,' iiinvardH of 'J.J inilfs
long in a N.W. and S.E. diroction, and a quarter to two-thirdH of a mile
broad. Tho bost bertli, if stopping for a short timo, is in or 7 fathoms
about 2 cabbis East of Vigilant Point, the N.W. cxtromoof Gowlland Ishind,
In the South part of the harbour tho water is deeper, and tho anchorage
more extended. Off the entrance is .S;../; Mamh about 100 feet high, 1
cables h)ng, N.W. and S.E., and 1 cable wide. GoulUml Island protects
Ihe harbour to the S.E. Entrance. Hank lies nearly across the entrance to
the harbour, and partly dries at low water. There is a clear passage on
either side of it, with not less than 4 fathoms.

Erom Gowlland Harbour to Seymour Narrows the coast takes a W.N.W.
direction, being steep-to, high, and luggod. Maud Island, the S.E. point of
the Narrows, is small, and about 300 feet high.

WiUow Point of Vancouver Island, the S.W. point of Discovery Passage,
lies S. by W. nearly 2 miles from Cape Mudge. It is low, covered with
willow bushes, and off it a sandstcmo ledge extends to the N.E. for nearly 3
cables. In passing tho point do not approach within half a mile.

From Willow I'oint a low coast runs N.W. for 7 miles to Oranffe Point,
and is bordered the whole distance by a sandy beach

Duncan llarj, of which Orange Point is tho East extreme, is about half a
mile deep, and affords good anchorage in 14 to 7 fathoms, sand, well out of
the tide, and sheltered from all except N.W. winds. This bay is easy of
access, and the best anchorage southward of Seymour Narrows.

Menzies Bay, immediately S.W. of Seymour Narrows, is of considerable
extent, running in a AV.N.W. direction for U mile, and three-quarters of a
mile broad, bul in its centre is a large sand-bank, which partly dries at low
water, with a narrow but clear passage on either side. Good well-sheltered
anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms may be procured between this bank and the

head of the bay.

SEYMOUR NARROWS, at lOJ miles N.W. by W. from Capo Mudge are
about 11 mile long, from 3 to 5 cables wide, and the shores on both sides are
liigh, rugged, and steep-to. A dangerous rock, with only 3 J fathoms on it,
was discovered in tho Narrows after the survey bad been published. It lies
almost in tho centre, but rather on the western side, between Maud Island
"and AVilfred Point, at 3 cables N.W. by W. i W. from the N.W. point of
the island, and near the heaviest of tho tide-race. It is therefore dangerous
during the strength of either stream, and should only be passed at slack
water, keeping on the eastern shore. In consequence of the contraction in
breadth of Discovery Passage the tide rushes through these Narrows with
great velocity, nearly 9 knots at springs ; the flood and ebb streams run for
nearly equal intervals of 6 hours, a very short period of slack water inter-
vening between them.
it is reco mmondod to choo so the early part of a favourable tide to pass

'. ' ■^.:_-,yf^l:JM¥'-yM ' ",i:

• -. .^j- j y^^v ..*-.*- - "'' '^^V''-" - '^ ^^^^^^^

^Mi

h of '2. J milfw
rds of a milo
1 or 7 fathoms
wllaiid ThIiiikI,

I foot high, 1
Island protects
10 '.ntranco to
ar passage on

ea a W.N.W.

( S.E. i(oint of

nvery Passage,
, covered with
3. for nearly 3
lile.
Orange Point,

is about lialf a
,nd, well out of

bay is easy of
rs.

of considerable
o-quarters of a
tly dries at low
I well-sheltered
I bank and the

vapo Mudge are
n both sides are
\ fathoms on it,
blished. It lies
an Maud Island
N.W. point of
•efore dangerous
I passed at slack
e contraction in
Narrows with
streams run for
lack water inter-

ible tide to pass

n.l'Ml'EK HAY-CHATHAM roINT.

Il.i

througli these Narrows, lor during tiio greatest atrongth a boiling runt
extends across, and stetaago becomes very ditlicult.

Northward of the Narrows, Discovery Tassago talvos a north-westerly
direction for \'l miles to Oliathum Point, the whores beconiiiig more high and
rugged than before. On the eastern sliore are several bays or openings, bul
with the exception of I'lumper Bay, too deep to afford anchorage. The
western shore is nearly straight, and near Cliatham I'uint are Otter Cove
and Elk 15ay, both ail'ording ancliorage.

Plumper Bay, half a mile North of Hoymour Narrows, is about two-thirll^l
of a milo deep, and the same in width, atlording anchorage in from 14 to
1» fathoms, near its S.E. part, easy of access, well shfltored, and out of the
tide. JJfep-ivdtcr Jdiij, separated from I'lumper 15ay by a peninsula, is about
1 mile deep, and half a milo broad, but too do(>p for anchonigo.

Granite J'uint is a high white granite bluff on tlie westt'rn shore, at the
northern termination of Seymour Narrows. At 2 cables N.W. from Granite
Toint is a rock with only 9 feet water.

Nodales Canal is an extensive opening running in a N.E. by E. direction
between Thurlow and Valdos Islands ; its western entrance, wliich is upward
of a mile wide, with deep water, is l.i mile N.E. by N. from Chatham Point.
There are some tide-rips off it.

Ell: Lay, on tho West side of Discovery Passage, at 9 miles N.W. of
Seymour Narrows, is about 1.} milo broad, and three-<iuarters of a milo deep.
It affords indifferent anchorage, in 14 to 15 fathoms. A rock, which covers
at half flood, lies IJ cable off tho shore, three-quarters of a mile N.W. of
Elk Bay. Otter Cove, on the West side of Discovery Passage, and just Soutli
of Chatham Point, is a small but snug anchorage, completely sheltered from
all winds by Limestone Island, in the centre of the entrance.

CHATHAM POINT, nearly 24 miles from Capo Mudge, is tho N.W. ex-
treme of Discovery Passage, and also separates it from Johnstone Strait. It
is a low rocky point, and at 2 cables N.E. from its North extreme is the
Beaver Rock, awash at low water ; in rounding, the shore ought not to bo
approached nearer than half a mile.

Directions. — In proceeding through Discovery Passage from tho south-
ward, if the tide be favourable, a vessel has only to keep in mid-channel till
past Seymour Narrows ; but if the tide be unfavourable, after passing Cai)o
Mudge, keep about 2 or 3 cables off tho eastern or Valdes Island shore,
which is steep-to, and the tide does not run so strong. If unable to get
through the Narrows, Menzies and Duncan Bays afford good anchorages.
The latter ought to be preferred, being easier of access.

North of Seymour Narrows, the tides being comparatively weak, a vessel
may proceed either in mid-channel or close to either shore, except in round-
ing Chatham Point, which should not be approached nearer than 4 or o
cables, to clear the Beaver Kock. Plumper Bay aflbrds a good stopping-

Tr?7»S3Wv»?iSii^..' ;t«,,&At ;r..'«ii*',Ti^tai-?r 'm-t^-rm-^

warn

!
I

4,1 lUMTTSn roMIMHIA, KTC

|,lac« to (I Tosscl unnbh. to proct-t-d thn-ugli Seymour Nnrrow.- from tl..>

northward.

Sailing v.'SH<.ls of any si/..- o<,;;l,t not to att.Miipl t.. iM-al through houthwanl

of tlio Seymour NarroWH.

JOHNSTONE STRAIT, whi.h siparntoH the N.K. sid- of Vancouver
Tshni.l from th- maiu, i«r,»mi.riHed hrtw-cM Cl.athnm I'-iiit aud H,.a.v-C.,v..,
briuK ahuut :.:. .Miles in i-n-tl. in a W. hy N. .tn.l K. l.y S. direelion, ^^>ti,
a varying Invadtli .d' 1 to 'i mil.s. The .h.n-.. ,m hotl. sid.'H in Id^rli and
rnijged, more cHprciallv tin- soutlu'rn <.ne, whi.li may lie M'd to he a .on-
tiuuous mountain ran^.", rimng alm.mt abruptly from the H.-a, theHunnnitH ol'
which vary from L',(t<t() to ;-i,0()(i feet in height, smne.d'the Id^rln-r ones hem-
clad in Htiow all the y(>ar round.

Tho shores of the strait are nearly evoryMdu-ro Ht(«ep-to, oxoept a feu
spots along tho northern 8ido, heroafter dowribed.

From Chatham Point to tho Wost end of Thurlow Island the soundiufrs
in mid-.:hanucd are vry deep, no bott.mi in many plaees buinp found with
1 ',0 fatlumis. Wost of llardwieko Island it again deepens to no bottom at
IM) and 170 fathoms.

Tides.— Evcrywhoro in J(dinstoue Strait it is high water, full and ehango,
at 0- 30-, and the rise and fall of tide is from 15 to 17 feet. The streams
run from 2 to 2* hours after high and low water by the shore, and except in
the vicinity of llelmekeu Ibland and to the east, yard of Kiu.x liay, they are
not strong. In the f(U-mer place th.^v run frcm 3 to 7 knots, and in tho latter
2 to 4 knots ; but in other parts of the strait they seldom exceed 1 to H
knots per hour.

THTJELOW ISLAND is on tho North side of .Tohnstone Strait, to tho
westward of Nodules Canal ; its South side, wliich borders tho strait, is rooky,
and about 13 miles long in a westerly direction ; tho eastern half is in-
dented by several bays, off which lie some small islands.

Knox Bay, on the South side of Thurlow, and 7 miles westward of Chat-
ham Toint, is two-thirds of a mile deep and about tho same in width, afford-
ing anchorage in from 15 to 17 fathoms 2 cables from the head. The an-
chorage is well protected from East or westerly winds, but it ought only to
be used as a stopping-place for the night or tide.

Between Knox Bay and Nodales Canal lie tho Fender Inlands, which are
very riigged and barren, the largest being 150 feet in heiglt.

Westward of Knox Bay the const of Thurlow Island is almost straight,
running in a W.S.W. direction for nearly G miles, when it turns totheN.W.
Its stores are high, rugged, and steep-to.

Ripple Point, on tho South or Vnmouver shore o' tho strait, 6 miles West
from Chatham Point, is steep-to, and between it dud Knox Bay are some
heavy tide rips in blowing weather. JiijJ2>l<' ^Ao.v^.-Cump Point, 92 mdcs

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PORT NEVILLE. 41.-,

W. by S. J S. from Itipiil... Point, slopos {gradually to tli« s.-a ; and liall'a
milo to the; N.E. of it is tho liipplo Shoal, with from 7 to <) fathoms.

Salmon Bay.— Tlio coast l).>twcon Pippl(^ and (\'mii- Points run.s in a
W.S.W. dirr.ti.m, curving slig'itly inwards ; and westward from Camp Point
to Sahnon Bay it is nearly straight for 4i mil.-s. Salmon Hay at liigh water
appears of considerable extent, but affords no anchorage.

Helmcken Island, lying ;J miles westward of Thurlow Island, in tho
centre of tho strait, is U mile long East and West, and about half a mile
wide, with a clear channel of th(! same width on either side of it. The
island is about 150 or 200 feet high. The Speaker Mod; which covers at
ouo-quarter Hood, lies 2A cables N.E. from its eastern point, and is in the
track of vessels using Current Passage. Race Passage, to tho southward ol"
Ilchnckeu Island, is half a mile wide, but deep and clear of danger. The
tide sets very strongly through it. This is tho passage generally used.

Hardwicke Island forms tho North side of Johnstone Strait for 7 miles to
tho wostwaid of Thurlow Island, and is separated from tho latter by Chan-
cellor Channel. Near its S.W. extremity, where Jutrl Ledge runs off for ;5
cables, it only uncovers at low water. Two islets lie off tho West point of
Hardwicke, and outside them the Fanny Eeef, which covers or is awash at
high water, lilinkinmp Hay, on tho shore of British Columbia, 2\ miles
N.W. of Hardwicke Island, and 25 miles from Chatham Point, is about IJ
mile deep, and half a mile wide. This bay affords good anchorage, in 10 to
12 fathoms, about one-third of a mile N.E. of its S.W. poiiit, and is well
sheltered and easy of access.

PORT NEVILLE, tho next opening in British Columbia West of Blin-
kinsop Bay, is of considerable extent, running in a north-ea.sterly direction
for 7 miles, and varying from one-quarter to 1 mile in breadth. It affords
a spacious and sc-cure anchorage, but in consequence of the Channel Eock
lying near the middle of its entrance channel, great caution is required in
entering. In the shoalest part of the entrance channel there aro not more
than 2} or 3 fathoms, and in tho middle of its North part, 3J cables S.W. .>
S. from Boulder I'oint, is the Channel Rock, of small extent and very dan-
gerous, having only 4 feet over it.

Bobbers' Nob is a remarkabl.^ low grassy point on tho North side of tho
port, about 1 milo from 13oulder Point ; to the westward of it is a shoal bay.
into which flow some large streams. The best anchorage is about half'a
m-Jo S.W. of the Nob in G or 7 fiithoms.

It is high water, full and change, in I'ort Neville at ()'■ ;50'", the rise and
fall of tide being 1 7 feet.

Tho coast between Ports Neville and Harvey runs in uW. byS. dirwtlon,
shghtly indented. W. by S. \ S. 4 mih's from the entrance of Port Neville^
and ono-<iuarter of a mile ulf shore, lie, tlie Ulimpaon Reef, which covers at
half flood.

' ^ ^f ^ ^ss^i ' - s m^^'^iw ^ rm^i- ' ■^•-? -' -

IKi

r.i]TTTsn COLUMBIA, irrr.

PORT HATiVEY. llio next iiilot westward of I'oii Novilli- on tlio Xovtli
side of Jolinstono Strait, rims in a nortlierly direttion for 1 iiiilfs, with a
breadth varying from oue-quarter to tliroe-qiiarters of a mile, and afford-^
f^ood and well-slioltered anelioraj^o in 7 to '.) fatlioniH, ninddy Ijottom, at tiio
distauoo of half a r.ilo from its head. From its head to the N.W. is a nar-
row gorge, which ])artly tills at high M'ater and joins Knight Inlet. Tlie
soundings in the outrunco vary from 60 to 80 fathoms, shoaling rapi-liy to-
wards the head. Broken Hands, oil' the East side of thf» entrance, are low,
rugged, and of small extent.

HAVANNAH CHANNEL, the western eutraneo of which is IJ mile Nortli
of Uroken Islands, runs in a north-easterly direction from the East side of
Port Harvey, connecting it with Call Creek. Its length is ahout 4 mile.s,
and its breadth varies from oue-hulf to 1 mile. There are several islamls
within it, which lie mostly in mid-channel, liouyhey Jiay, in the S.E. part
of llavaunah Channel, is about 1 mile deep in a southi'rly direction, and
half a milo broad. A vessel may anchor in this bay at a distance of halt'
a mile from the head. Browning llovk, iu the Nortli part of llavaunah
Channel, about one-third of a mile North of Hull Island, has cmly 12 feet
over it, and lies nearly in the fairway of the channel to Call Creek.

CALL CREEK, the tjouth part of wliich nuiy be be said to commence at
the N.E. point of llavaunah Channel, is an inlet of considerable extent, its
length in a north-easterly direction being 12 miles, and its breadth varying
from one-half to 1^ mile. The shores on either side are high and precipi-
tous, rising abruptly to mountains fnmi 1,000 and 4,700 feet in heiglit. The
head terminates in a low swfimp.

Chatham Channel, the East part of which commences at Root Point, tlio
N.W. extreme of llavaunah Channel, trends to tlie westward, connecting
these waters with Knight Inlet. It is not roconmiended to use this channel.
Captain Vancouver's tender, the Chatham, a snudl brig, passed through
this channel to the westward in July, 1792, and the least water found was
3 fathoms.

It is high water, full and change, in Port Haney at 0" ."30"', and the ris(^
and fall of tide is 10 feet.

Escape Reef, lying 2 miles West of Broken Islands, and half a mile off tlio
North shore of Johnstone Strait, is about a cable iu extent, has 4 feet least
water on it, and is marked by kelp in the summer.

Forward Bay, 3 miles W.S.W. from Port Harvey, is a shght bend in
the coast, about 1^ mile broad, and three-quarters of a mile deep, with a
small islet 30 feet high off its S.W. point. Its sliores are moderately high,
and a bank extends nearly 3 cables from its liead. This bay affords good
anchorage, in 14 to 10 fathoms, off the edge of the bank; in entering it
from the eastward guard against the Escape Keof. From Forward Bay tlu-
northern shore of Johnstcme Strait becomes cttmparatively low, and trends

BTiouoirroN strait.

417

■ on tlio Xovtli
I miles, with a
1(>, mid iiHord-^
Ijottoni, at till)
N.W. is a uar-
•ht Inlot. Tli.«
ing rapi'liy to-
rance. arc low,

s IJ mile North
lie East side of
about 4 miles,
several islands
1 the S.E. part
direction, and
li stance of 1ml I'
t of llavannah
as only 12 foot
Creek.

to commence at
■able extent, its
jreadth varying
gh and jirecipi-
iii lioight. The

Root Point, the
ard, connecting
se this channel,
passed through
vater I'ound was

0"', and the ris(!

If a mile off tlio
has 4 feet least

I slight bend in
le deep, with a
loderately high,
)ay affords good
; in ent;Qring it
forward Bay the
low, and trends

W. by S. for 15 miles to Weynton Passagu, at the termination of ^he strait.
Ikat Harbour, a small cove affording shelter to boats, is (> miles westward of
Forward Bay.

Hanson and Cracroft Islands, between Boat Harbour and Weynton
Passage, are low, ^vith rocky shores, and are separated by a passage 1 mile
wide. The South side of Hanson is 3 miles long, and off its S.W. point aro
some rocks extending for 2 or 3 cables to the westward. Cracroft, to the
eastward of it, is about 2 miles long ; and off its South part, at the distance
of half a mile, aro the Sophia Islets, of small extent.

For a steamer, or sailing vessel with a fair wind, the navigation of Joliu-
stono Strait is perfectly easy, it being only requisite to keep in mid-channel,
except when nearing Helmckeu Island from the eastward, when a vessel
ought, after passing Thurlow Island, to keep within throe cables of the
southern shore, or (['amp Point, till past the Ripple Shoal, which, from
being marked with kelp, is likely to have less than 7 fathoms over it. In
the vicinity of Helmckon the tides are strong, but not enough to stop a
steam-vessel of moderate power. To the westward of it tljey have no great
strength.

BROUOHTON STBAIT, which connects Queen (Charlotte Soimd with
Johnstone Strait, is upwards of 14 miles in length. East and West, the
breadth varying from 4 miles at the East to 1 mile at the West entrance.
Its southern shore is formed by Vancouver Island, and the northern one by
the South side of Malcolm Island, and both, except near Beaver Cove, are
low. There are several islands, rocks, and shoals in the eastern part ; but a
clear navigable passage along the southern side half a mile wide in the nar-
rowest place, which is abreast Alert Bay in Cormorant Island.

TIDES.— In Broughton Strait it i^i high water, full and change, at 6" 30",
the rise and fall of tide being 14 or 15 feet.

Beaver Cove, at the S.E. extreme of Brou,. hton Strait, runs in upwards
of a mile in a southerly direction, and is half a mile wide ; its shoras are
high, and the depth is too great for anchorage. Mount Holdsworth, a re-
markable conical peak, 3,000 feet high, and very conspicuous from the
eastward, rises 3 miles to the S.AV. of the cove.

Nimpkish River, which flows into a shallow bay on the South shore, 5
miles westward of Beaver Cove, is upwards of a cable wide at entrance,
with 2^ fathoms, but only na/igable for any distance by canoes. On the
North bank of the Nimpkish, at the entrance, is a small plateau of grassy
land, on which are the ruins of a large native village, called Oheslahe.

Port McNeill, on the South side of Broughton Strait, about 10 miles W.
from Beaver Cove, runs in a W.S.W. direction for 2 miles, is three-quarters
of a mile broad, and affords a good, well-sheltered anchorage, in 6 to 9
fatkoms. From Ledge Point, the North point of entrance, a narrow ledge
with 3 to 5 fathoms on it, runs out E.N.E. \\ mile, and kelp grows over it
North Pacitic. 2 i:

-.^sms^^^m^m^m

418 IVRITISH COLUMBIA, 1:TC.

in «ummor. Eel Reef, lying 9 cable. S.S.W. from Lodf^o Point and about
2 cables otf the South shore of the port, cov(>rs at throo-quarters tloo.l. Urn
coast from Port Mc Noill runs about W.S.W. 4 miles to the entrance of
Queen Charlotte Sound.

Weynton Passage.-P^'r*^' Mumh, in the centre of Brou-hton Strait, at
its eastern entrance, are a group of small low islands, with some rocks ox-
tending a short distance North and S.E. of them. Weynton Passage, b...-
twoen Hanson and Pearse Islands, y. about U mile wide ; and unless want-
in,; to anchor in MitcheU Bay, it ought not to be used. Race Pasmge, be-
tween Pearse and Cormorant \ slands, is two-thirds of a mile wide, but a ro.k
lies in mid-channel at its South part. The passage is daT.-erous. Cormn-
rant hknd lies in the centre of the strait, to the West of Pearse Islands. It
is about ir,0 feet high, and 2i miles long. East and West. Gordon Point,
its S.E. extreme, is 2 J miles W. by N. from Beav.^r Cove. Alert Bay, on
the South side of Cormorant Island, is n<..arly 1 mile wide, and half a nule
deep affording a good and weU sheltered anchorage in from toi) fathoms,
muddy bottom. Yelloio Blajf, the S.W. point of the bay, may be recog-
ui/ed by a remarliable yellow clilf at the extreme of the point. Hadd,n,jton
hland, 7 miles West of Beaver Covo, in the centre of Bn.ughton Stiait, is
smdl. Its South and West sides are steep-to, but from the northern one
a bar, with as little as 9 feet water in some parts, runs across the strait to
Malcolm Island.

Between Haddington Island and the ledge running off from the North
point of Port M.^Nem, is a passage three-quarters of a mile wide, with not
loss thau 7 fathoms water in mid-channel.

MALCOLM ISLAND, which forms the North side of Broughton Strait,
is 13i miles long WS.W. and E.N.E., with an average breadth of nearly
2 miles; the shores are generally low, a sandy beach extending off a short
distance from them. Ou its South side are Mitchell and Rough Bays, in
which vessels may anchor in or 8 fathoms. Donegal Head, its East point,
is high, f^Ulfy, bordered by a bea.ili, and the tide runs strong in its vicinity.
Diekemon Point, on ihv South side of the island, is connected by a bar, will.
9 feet in some parts, to Haddington Island.

DIRECTIONS.— In navigating Broughton Strait from the eastward, when
abreast Beaver Cove in mid-channel, a W. h S. course, to pass not more than
2 cables South of Cormorant Island, will keep a vess.el clear to the nortli-
^viud of Nimpkish Bank, an-l when the West point of Cormorant Island
bears N. by K. she will be westward of it ; then steer to round the S.W.
point of Haddington Island within a .luarter of a mile, to avoi.l the ledge
o.ff Ledge* Point ; when the North shore of Connorant Island opens of Had-
dington Island E. by N., a vessel may steer out of the strait in mid-channel.
None, except small craft, should go to the northward of Haddington Island.

*-- - .j>ii>i I, I.

REAVER IIARl'.OUl}.

ilu

'oiut, and about
turs flood. Tlio
tho ontranco of

^liton Strait, at
801110 roc^s ox-
en I'assago, 1)0-
md ualoas want-
laee Passage, bo-
wido, but a roi^k
i^cTOUS. Cormn-
earso Islands. It
Gordon Toint,
Alert Bay, on
and half a milo
1 to '.) fatlioms,
, may bo rocog-
int. Haddinyton
ughton Stiait, is
ho northern ono
:os3 tho strait to

from the North
le wide, with not

Bronghton Strait,
jrcadth of nearly
aiding off a short
1 Itouyh Bays, in
'd, its East point,
DUg in its vichiity.
ted by a bar, with

16 eastward, when
)a8s not more than
dear to tlu^ north-
Cormorant Island
1 round the S.W.
to avoid tho lodgo
and opnis of Ilad-
ait in mid-channel,
laddington Island.

Sailing vessels of any size would fmd it tedious to boat througii this stniit,
and as there are several dangers it is not recommended to do so.

aUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND is an extensive arm of the sea, connecting
the inner waters North of Vancouver Island with the rafilic. It was so
named by Captain S. Wedgborough, of tho E.rpn-imnit, in ITHC. Its length
is upwards of 30 miles, .'unning in an easterly direction, and its breadth
varies from 10 to 20 miles, being bounded on the North by the shores of
British Columbia, and on the South liy tho North shore of Vancouver
Island. In tho North and N.E. parts are innumerable rocks and islands,
of which little is at present known ; but along its southern sides are two
broad and nan-ow channels to tho Pacific.

Broughtim Strait enters this sound at its S.E. part. From thence to
Thomas Point the Coast of Vancouver runs AV. by N. for 9 miles, and
is_low ; it is bordered the whole distance by a beach composed of sand and
boulders, and foul ground marked by kfdp exists off it, from ono quarter to
half a milo.

BEAVER HARBOUR, on the South side of tho sound, 9 miles westward
of Bronghton Strait, is ;5 miles wide at entrance and 2 miles deep. The
harbour is protected or formed by several islands lying across, and within
the entrance ; its shores are low, and from the South shore a bank extends
off 3 or 4 cables; a short distance inland from its western side aro seven re-
markable hills, varying in height from 400 to G40 foot. There is good an-
chorage in the South and West parts of the harbour, but north-oastorlv winds
send in a heavy sea, rendering it impossible to land on the South shore for
days together.

Fort Rupert, a Hudson Bay Company's fort or trading post, is on the
South shore ; it has been established several years, and is in charge of a
chief trader. Adjacent to it is a small quantity of clear land, also a very
fine garden, where fruit, and vegetables common to tho climate, are
grown in great abundance. In the vicinity of the fort is a large native
village.

Thomas Poiut, tho S.E. extreme of tho harbour, is low and rocky ; soimt
rocks lie upwards of 2 cables off it to the westward. The channel between
it and Deer Island is about 4 cables wide, and clear of danger. Sfdjf'af Rod,-,
8 cables to the westward of Thomas Point, is 3 cables off shor(\ just al: the
outer edge of the bank, and uncovers at low water.

Deer Island, two-thirds of a mile North of Thomas Point, is about 1 ,V
mile in circumference, wooded, and about 240 feet high ; extending nearly
4 cables off its N.W. part is a reef marked by kelp, witii !) fci^t water over
it. Round Island, half a mile N. by E. of Deer Island, is sniiill. but higli,
and conspicuous from the eastward. Peel Ix/nnd, in llie North part of
Beaver Harbom-, is three-quarters of a milo long S.W. and N.E.. and
between it and the West shore of the harbour is a pas.sage 2 cables wid

^\J ^ l-C*l/IVy.:» ,1 IVll' 111

2 e2

^5SssfB®t«**-:t^-^^..?^«a^^^*''S*'n;t>s?^

420 bUlTISH COLUMBIA. ET(A

the narrowest part, with 17 fathoms water. Thore is a good chaunel into
tlie harbour, closo along the East side of Peol Island, which is stoop-to.
CJtle Mamh, whiuh lie in the mi<ldlo of the harbour, are small and .-on-
iKH'tcd with each othor at low water. At H cable t^outh of thorn is tihM
Met, tho observation spot on which is in lat. 50" 42' 30" N., long. 127^ 25' 7'
W. ; a reef awash at high water lies 1 cable South of it. Conmrant Rock,
lying one-third of a mile off the western shore of the harbour, and nearly
ho'" . mile West of Shell Islet, covers at high water.

rtdalm Pimage, leading from tho West part of Beaver Harbour to the
northward, is 2 cables wide in its narrowest part, and has not less than 17
fathoms in mid-channel.

Beaver Harbour is easy of access to either sailing vessels or steamers.
There are three passages into it, but the southern one, between Thomas
Point and Doer Island, is tho best, and generally used, being wide enough
lor a vessel to beat through.

It is high water, full and change, in Beaver Harbour at 0" SO", and the
rise and fall is from 15 to IG feet.

Hardy Bay, to the westward of Beaver Harbour, and separated from it
by Dillon Point, runs in a southerly direction for 4 miles ; its breadth at the
entrance is 2 miles, narrowing to tho head. There is no anchorage, except
in the small creek at the head, which is diiFicult of access, and should not be
used by a stranger.

GOLETAS CHANNEL, which runs along the North shore of Vancouver
Island to the Pacific, is 22 miles long East and West, with a breadth vary-
ing from 1 to 2i miles. Its shores are high, rugged, and steep-to, except
in the western pnrt, and may bo generally approached to a quarter of a
mile. The northern side is composed of a group of islands, mostly small,
through which are several navigable passages. There are four anchorages
within the channel ; Shushartie Bay on the South side ; Poi-t Alexander,
Shadwell Passage, and Bull Harbour on the North side ; and all, with the
exception of the latter, easily accessible to sailing vessels. Duval Point,
on the South side at the eastern entrance of the channel, is 15 miles West
of Broughton Strait.

The soundings throughout the channel to the West entrance are very
deep, varying from 15)0 to 80 fathoms, but there the bottom suddenly rises
from 40 to 7 and 9 and in one part to less than 3 fathoms, forming Nahwitti
Bar, stretching completely across the channel, and in a great measure pre-
venting any heavy sea rising inside it during westerly gales.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in the Goletas Channel at
0" 30", and the rise and fall varies from 12 to 14 feet. The streams in
the East part of the channel run from 1 to 3 knots, but near the West
entrance, in the vicinity of the Nahwitti Bar, they are much stronger, run-

CAPE COMMEIiELL— OALIANO ISLANIX

431

d chaunel into
iiih is stoop-to.
imall and oon-
' thoui is Shell
mg. 127'' 25' 7'
Cormorant Rock,
ur, and nearly

larbour to tho
ot less than 1 7

sis or steamers,
etween Thomas
g wide enough

)'' 30", and the

jparated from it
s breadth at the
chorage, except
ad should not be

e of Vancouver
a breadth vary-
steep-to, except
I a quarter of a
8, mostly small,
four anchorages
Port Alexander,
and all, with the
i. Duval Point,
I 15 miles West

ntrance are very
m suddenly rises
bnning Nahwitti
3at measure pre-
I.

letas Channel at

The streams in

t near the West

Lih stronger, run-

ring from 2 to 6 knots, turning shortly after high and low water by the
shore.

Shushartie Bay.— From Duval Point tho South shoro of (lolotas Phannol
runs 15 miles in a wcisterly direction to Shuslinrtio Ray, with a ru;^god rodcy
outline; it is everywhere steep-to. 8huahtirtio Ray is about Imlf a mile in
extent, and its shores are high, except at tho head, from which a sand-bank
runs off more than 2 rabies. There is a very limited biit fuirly sh<>ltor«d
anchorage ju.st inside the N.E. point of bay, in ab(mt 13 fatlioms, at the
distance of a cable off shore, but from tho f.teopness of the bank it should
only be considered as a stopping place. Dilhm Unch, which covers at one
quarter flood at 1^ cable West of the East point of bay, is in tho way of
vessels entering from the eastward.

Shingle Point, 2 miles West of Shushartio Hay, is low ; a beach runs off
it a short distance, westward of this point it is difficult to land, except in
fair weather.

CAPE COMMERELL, 22 miles West of Duval Point, is the northernmost
point of Vancouver Island, and the South point of the West entrance to
Goletas Channel, 'xhe cape is low, and some rocks extend off it for nearly
2 cables. There is an Indian village on the East side of the cnpe.

Oordon Group consists of a number of small islands running in an Enst
and West direction for 5 miles, and bordering the North part of tho East
entrance of Goletas Channel. They are high and steep-to, and on the
eastern or Doyle Island is Miles cone, a remarkable summit 380 feet high.

Duncan Inland, 1 mile South of the Gordon Group, is about a mile in cir-
cumference, and 300 feet high. Christie Passage, between tho West sifle of
the Gordon Group and Balaklava Island, is half a mile wide. Its shores
are free from danger. Browning Passage, to the West of Palaklava Island,
between it and Galiano Island, runs in a north-westerly direction from tha
Goletas to New Channel. Its length is about 3 miles ; it is deep, and a
mid-channel course through is free from danger. The tide is very weak in
this channel.

GALIANO ISLAND, the largest of the islands on the North side of Go-
letas Channel, is of triangular shape, nearly 8 miles long, and 3^ miles
broad, the base fronting to tiio southward. The shores are very much broken
along the North and East sides; a remarkable peak of conical shapo, 1,200
feet high. Mount Lemon, rises near its S.W. part, and Port Ahwander is
formed at its S.E. extreme.

Port Alexander, upwards of 7 miles from Duval Point, and on tho West
side of Browning Channel, runs in a north-westerly direction for \\ mile,
with a general breadth of about 4 cables. This port is easy of access to
steamers and sailing vessels with a fair wind, and affords good anchorage in
1 2 to 1 3 fathoms, half a mile from its head, well sheltered froui all except
c luth-oasterly winds.

,^;j3s^ies^,:?R;;;;s5s«H5s<&#w^3»:«"-''

iU^BHM^^V

422

lUUTISII COLUMBIA. ETC.

Shadwell Passage, in tho N.W. part of the Ooletas Cliannol, between
Uahano mul IL.po I.la.uls, is i^ milos l.mg in a nortlierly dirertinn. and its
breadth varien from one half to U milo. Tho soundings in tho 8outh part
of this pas-sago are from 80 to 100 fathoms, dot-reusing rapidly iwm 9 to 13
fathoms to tho northward.

nnrsiffarf hhnul, in tho centre of the passage at its North part, is 1 milo
long. Wost of It aro somo rocks and small islets, mil,; hlumi, at the S.E.
part of tho passage, is steep-to, and may be approached to a cable.

Centre hiand, in tho middle of tho passage, and 5 cables S.W. from Van-
sittart Island, is small. One Tree Met, 4 cables Wost of Vansittart, is
^mall, about 10 feet high, and has a single tree on its summit, which is very
conspicuous when seen from tho northward, and of groat use in identifying
the passage. Vapc Janm, the N.W. extreme of Shadwell Passage, is a
rocky bluff; some rocks extend off it to the southward for a short distance,
and foul ground, marked by kolp, exists between it and Turn Point.

Shadwell Passage may be used by steamers or sailing vessels with a fair
Mind. It would hardly be prudent to beat a large vessel through it, as there
18 generally a heavy swell and strong tide in the North part. It is the pas-
sage usually taken by the Hudson Bay Company's vessels when bound North
from the inner waters.

. HOPE ISLAND, the westernmost of tho group which form the North side
of Goletas Channel, is 6 miles long, East and West, and its greatest breadth
IS H miles. The island is moderately high, and its shores are verv much
broken. The sea breaks heavily along its North and AVest sides, and off
Moxicana Point, tho western extreme, a reef extends 3 cables. The South
shore 18 steep, and may be approached to one quarter of a mile.

Bull Harbour has its entrance on the South sido of Hope Island, 2 miles
fi-o>n the western entrance of Goletas Channel. Thoughsmall, this harbour
affords a very secure landlocked anch.,rage. It runs in a northerly direction
lor n_ mile across Hope Island, its head being only separated from the N.
bliore of the island by a narrow rock of low land 4015 feet wide ; its breadth
at the entrance is 5 cables, contracting to 1 cable at half the distance from
tlie head, after which it again increases to nearly 2 cables

Indian LJand, 1^ cable North of the narrowest part of the entrance, is small,
but completely shuts in the harbour to tlie southward. The anchorage is
to the northward of this inland, in about 4 fathoms water, but there is only
room for one or two vessels of moderate size to lie moored. If intending to
enter Bull Harbour, steer up mid-channel, passing East of Indian Island,
and moor immediately the vessel is North of it, anchors North and South.
Steamers, or only small sailing vessels, should use this anchorage, as
from its narrow and tortuous entrance, it is rather difficult of access to
Jong ves.sels.

Nahwitti Bar, or ledge, stretching across the West entrance of the Go-

NKW CIIANNKL

■J2;i

Channel, between

r (lirertinn, and its
in tho South part
lidly ironi 9 to 13

irth part, is 1 niihi
Mim/, at the S.E.
a cable.

1 S.W. from Van-
; of Vansittart, is
imit, which is very
use in identifying
■ell Passage, is a
• a short distance,
irn Point,
sssels with a fair
irough it, as there
•t. It is the pas-
i-hen bound North

:m the North side
greatest breadth
i are very much
st sides, and off
)les. The iSouth
Luile.

J Island, 2 miles
lall, this harbour
jrtherly direction
ied from the N.
ride ; its breadth
le distance from

itrance, is small,
ie anchorage is
at there is only
If intending to
Indian Island,
•rth and South,
anchorage, as
It of access to

nee of the Go-

lotas Channel, is of sandstone formation, and on the onstorn edge rises sud-
denly from 40 to !) fathoms, the doptli incroasing very gradually to the
westward. Its breadth within the lO-fathoras lino is from 1 to nearly .'! miles,
broadest at tho South part, whore are several shoal spots, called 'I'dtnnll Jiiiftt,
witii '>\ and .'!.i fathoms, at a distance of \\ mile from tho South shore;
nortiiward of these patches the depths vary from i\ to i> fathoms. Jn
heavy westerly gales tho sea breaks right across tho Golotas Channel at
tills bar.

Lemon Point, Oaliano Island, open North of Shingle I'oint, Vancouver
Island, bearing K. by N., loads over tho Naiiwitti ]5ar in tho deepest water
i'niin 7 to 9 fathoms, well to tho northward of Tatnall lieofs.

NEW CHANNEL, to the northward of the Goletas Channel, and aei)aratO(l
from it by the islands which form tho North shore of tho latter, is an
extensive clear passage to the Pacific Ocean, about 12,] miles long, and a
breadth varying from 1 i to 4 milos. Its depth in tho shoalcst part is 60
fathoms, near tho eastern entrance, and its shore.', except near the NVost part
of the Gordon Group, may bo approached to nearly half a mile; the North
limit of the channel is formed by Walker Group to tho eastward, and a few
low rocks and islets to tho N.W.

Generally a heavy swell sots through Now Channel fv^m tho westward,
and with the e.xception that there is more room luc a large vessel to work
in or out than in Goletas Channel, there is no reason to use it in pro-
forence to the latter, unless, if running in before a heavy westerly galo,
the sea wore breaking across the West entrance of Goletas Channel at the
Naiiwitti Bar.

Doyle Island, the south-easternmost of the Gordon Group, and at the
point of New Channel, is three-quarters of a milo long, and, as before
stated, has a remarkable summit, 2380 feet high, Miles Cono, on its centre.
The VraHo hleU are small, 30 feet high, and steep-to, thero being 100
fathoms water at a cable's distance. They lie 2i milos westward of Doyle
Island, and about 3 cables North of Gordon Group.

Jhyle Maud IJ milo West of Crane Islets, and half a mile North of
Ilurst Island, is small ; at half a milo N.W. of it is tho (In'n liock, which
covers at one quarter flood, and is dangerous to vessels beating through
this channel.

The North shore of Balaklava Island is rugged, and half a mile N.M'.
from its N.W. point are three low islets, 6 feet above high water, at tho
North entrance to Browning Channel.

The North shore of Galiano Island is also rugged ; some outlying rocks
lie a short distance off it, but it may be approached to one-third of a
mile.

WALKER GROUP, at tho N.E. part of Now (Channel, from 2 to ;J mil.'s
North of its South side, is composed of a number of small islundrs and rocks,

434

KUITISH CUJA MIJIA, KTV

c.vering an pxtvnt ..f «i inilon in ii w.-storly diroction, nnd 2 miles brond. thn
hiKhoHt is about ;!()(» loet abc.v., tho soii; anions th.mi are sovoral small
crookH and bights, which would a«V.rd shelter to boats, or oven small craft.
Cmth Point, at tho 8.E. extreme of tho Rroup, is bold, elilfy, and steop-t...
with no bottom at 60 fathoms 2 cabloH South of it. H'hfe Rod; at thn Houth
cxtromeof Walker aroup. lies 2 miles W.S.W. from Castlo point; it is 4
feet above high water. Xi,e Itork, off tho South end of Schooner I'assng,,, at
tho West part of tho group, covers at high water ; it lies W. i N. 2i miles
from White Rock, and nu.y be approached to 2 cables on the South side, but
large vessels should not stand inside it to the northward.

Ii,df,rH hhmd, the S.W. of Walker Group, is about half a mile long, and
one quarter of a mile wide; half a mile S.E. of it are some rocks just
above high water. Pro..cv Rod, 2 miles W. by N. J N. of Redfern Island,
is small, about 2 feet above high water. Nearly a mile farther in the same
direction is Bru,hf Met, 100 feet high. Pi»e Ixlaml, at the N.W. part of
New Channel, is about a mile in circumference, low, and wooded, and con-
spicuous from the westward.

Siom hhmh, in the centre of Queen Charlotte Sound, 2^ miles north-
ward of Pine Island, a:e a nurrow chain of islets extending 2 miles East and

West. . . -.

The COAST from Cape Commerell(page 421), the N.W. point of Van-
couver Island, takes a S.W. direction for 16 miles to Cape Scott. It is
rather low, but rises at a distance inland to hills 800 and 1,000 feet high ; it
is indented by several bays, wliich, however, are too open to afford any
shelter, except in southerly winds ; foul ground extends off in some places

more than one mile.

HECATE EOCK, lying W. i S. 1 J mile from Capo Commerell, and
three-quarters of a mile off shore, covers at three-quarters flood, and the
sea breaks heavily over it. Lemon Point, Galiano Island, just open of or
touching Shingle Point, Vancouver Island, E. by N., leads three-quarters of

a mile North of it.

At Cape Scott the flood comes from the southward, and rounding the
cape sets into the Goletas Channel, its strength varying from 1 to 3 knots.

SCOTT CHANNEL, between Cape Scott and the Scott Islands to the
westward, is 5i miles wide, with soundings in it varying from 25 to 40 fa-
thoms. It is a safe navigable channel for any class of vessel, the only
known dangers in it being the rocks extending nearly a mile West of Cape
Scott. The tide runs through from 1 to 3 knots, the flood from the

southward. j. .•

SCOTT ISLANDS extend nearly 20 miles in an East and West direction ;
the principal ones are five in number, with some adjacent smaUer islets.
There are wide passages between the western islands, but as no soundings
have been obtained in tl.ein, and strong tide ripples and overfalls have in-

TUV. COAST OF lailTlSll roLUMUIA.

42.')

lilos brond, tho
e Hovoral smiill
'en finiall crnft.
y, and stpop-to,
>ck, at thn South
point ; it is 4
jner I'assnfrc', at
. J N. '2\ miles
) South side, but

a mile long, and
Bomo rocks just
Rodfern Island,
thor in the same
N.W. part of
■ooded, and con-

2\ miles north-
2 miles East and

r. point of Van-
ape Scott. It is
000 feet high ; it
m to afford any
f in some places

Commerell, and
rs flood, and the
I, just open of or
three-quarters of

,nd rounding the
)m 1 to 3 knots.
tt Islands to the
from 25 to 40 fa-
; vessel, the only
lile West of Cape
le flood from the

d West direction ;

jnt smaller islets.

as no soundings

)verfall8 have in-

variably boon observed raging tluTo, no vessel should vonluro among or
through thnm, unlosM compellod to do so.

Westward of ('ape Hcott tho tides sot with considorablo strpngth to tho
North and South acrosn tho ontranco of Goletas Ciianiiol, and a vossol pas-
sing out nortliward of tho Scott Islands must bo aware that she is not sot
down too near thorn with tho ebb stroam.

Cox Island, the eastornmost and largest of the group, is about 2J
miles in extent, with iron bound rocky shores and several off-lying dan-
gers. Its height is upwards of 1,000 feet. This island forms tho western
boundary of tho Seott Cliannol, and is upwards of 5 milos W. by 8. from
Cape Scott.

Lanz Island, separated from Cox Island by a passage half a mile wide, is
upwards of 2 miles hmg in a westerly direction, and a mile broad ; itH shores,
like Cox Island, are rocky, and it rises near tho centre to a summit 1,177 ic.
above the soa ; both tho islands are wooded.

^ant Hancock, a small islet 80 feet high, is 2^ miles S. W from Lanz
Island ; it has a rugged outline. West Ifaycnck, 5 milos W. J S. from East
Haycock, is small and rocky, about 180 feet high.

Triangle Island, the westernmost of the group, is l aiiles W. by 8. from
Cape Sc tt : ^t is 680 feet high, about a mile in extent, and diil'ois from the
other islands in being vory precipitous and bare of frees, ■! d has a romark-
iii'le gap in iti summit. A ledge or reef extends 1 milo N.W. of it; to the
eastward are three low islets, the outermost of which, 40 feet high, is If
mile from Triangle Island.

In navigating near the Scott Islands, it is recommended to give them a
good ofiing, especially in a sailing vessel, as the tides set very strongly
through the passages between them.

This will complete the description of the circuit of Vancouver Island. Its
seaward coast has been included in the previous Chapter, and this terminated
at Cape Scott. Of its interior, it would be out of place to dwell upon here ;
but at the conclusion of this Chapter, some of the more recent works on the
subject are enumerated.

The COAST of British Columbia, to the northward of Queen Charlotte
Sound, is lei-s known and frequented than that adjacent to Vancouver Island.
For its delineation and description we are chiefly dependant on the excellent
work of Vancouver. Although this is now of old date, it is of less im-
portance, inasmuch as from the nature of the coast, an iron-bound region
not liable to change its character, the careful survey, as far as it went, will
be sufficient guide for the present, although ..o one can predict what its future
may be. As it is, it remains in its primeval condition.

':m^is^»-i&s^Bsissm'^iifi's-'S^m^>«^fSPs!.i5:^m-^mi^'K

426 BRTTISn COLUALBIA, ETC.

CAPE CAUTION, which forniH tho N.E. limit of auoen Cliarlotto Sound,
was 80 namod by Vancouver on his second visit, from the dangerous naviga-
tion in its vicinity. It makes a conspicuous capo, terminating in rugged,
rocky, low hum-nocks, that produce some dwarf pine, and other small trees
and shrubs. Oit tho capo are some very dangerous breakers, consisting ap-
parently of three distinct patches, occupying the space of a league. Their
eastern part bears from Cape Caution W. by N. J N., distant about 5 miles ;
but tho rocks that lie otl' tho shore to tho nortliward of tho cape reduce the
width of tho channel between them and the breakers to about a league, in
which there does not appear any obstruction which is uoi sufficiently con-
spicuous to be avoided.

The Virgin and Pearl Rocks aro two very dangerous clusters off the
entrance to Smith Inlet. They wore discovered and named by Mr. Ilanna,
iu 1786. Tho Virgin Eocks lie W. by N. IN. 13 miles from the Soutli
point of Smith Inlot ; and the Pearl Rocks, N.W. 2 N. 8 miles from the
same point. They lie in a line, W.S.W. from the South extreme of Cal-
vert Island, 11 and 4 miles distant respectively.

SMITH INLET.— The entrance lies about 7 miles North of Capo Cau-
tion, the intervenmg coast being bestrewed with rocks and islets. The en-
' trance into it is nearly closed by rocky islets, with innumerable rocks, as
well above as beneath the sea, rendering it a very intricate and dangerous
navigation for shipping. About 3 leagues within the entrance the rocks and
islets cease to exist, and tlie inlet contracts to about half a mile in gene-
ral width.

River Canal is about a league to the northward of tho North point of
Smith Inlet. The entrance to it appears less dangerouH than the latter.
It has however, on its southern side many rocky islets and rocks, but none
were discovered beneath the water level. By keeping on the North side of
tho entrance, which is 1^ mile across, a fair navigable passage is found,
about half a mile wide, between the North shore and the rocky islets that
lie off its southern side. There was no bottom found iu tlie middle with 80
fathoms of line. From Eiver Canal, a channel diverges towards tho
South end of Calvert Island. It is very narrow and intricate, leading
through an immensity of rocks and islets to Point Addenbrooke, in Fitz-

hugh Soimd.

CALVERT ISLAND forms the exterior coast northward of Eiver Canal,
and within it is Fitzhugh Sound ; the former was discovered and named by
Mr. Duncan, the latter by Mr. Hanna. Off the South point of the island
are two small islets. The eastern side of the island forms a steep bold shoro,
rising abruptly from the sea to a great height.

Safefi/ Cove {Port Sn/rh/ of Mr. Duncan ?) is 2 leagues North of the South
extreme of Calvert Island, on the West shore of Fitzhugli's Sound. It ter-
minates in a small beach, near which is a stream of o.xcellent water. The

HUIJKE CANAL.

•127

n Cliarlotto Sound,
dangerous naviga-
iuating in rugged,
d other small trees
{era, consisting ap-
P a league. Their
tant about 5 miles ;
ho cape reduce tlif
about a league, in
.oi sufficiently con-
ns clusters off the
led by Mr. Ilanna,
les from the South
. 8 miles from the
ith extreme of Cal-

orth of Capo Cau-
id islets. The en-
umerable rocks, a.s
:ato and dangerous
trance the rocks and
lalf a mile in gene-

the North point of
lUH than the latter,
and rocks, but none
n the North side of
e passage is found,
lie rocky islets that

tlie middle with 80
vergou towards the
id intricate, leading
denbrooke, in Fitz-

■ard of Eiver Canal,

?ered and named by

point of the island

,B a steep bold shore,

North of the South
gli'« Sound. It ter-
Lcellont water. The

depth is, however, rather great, 17 to ao fathunis. It is tlie first place that
affords safe and convenient anchorage on the western shore within Fitzhugh
Sound. Vancouver found it a comfortable retreat, in August, 17!)2.
High water at the time the moon passes tho meridian; rise and fall
about 10 feet.

At 13 miles northward of Safety Cove is the passage which insulates Cal-
vert Island. Vancouver places its N.E. point in lat. 51° 4.5'. South of this
lies a nunken. rock, which, though near tho shore, is dangerous, being visible
at low tides only by the surf which breaks on it. From this point the pas-
sago extends S.W. by W. \ W., about 7 miles, between the rocks on
its northern shore is a passage, generally 1 or 2 miles wide, but ren-
dered unpleasant by the want of soundings, the depth being beyond 150
fathoms.

Fitzhugh Sound extends for 26 miles from Safety Cove, in nearly a true
North direction to Vuint TFalker, where it separates into two arms. The
easternmost was named by Vancouver after Edmund Burke. Its S.E. point
is Point Udmuud, about 2 miles E.S.E. from Point Walker. There are some
rocks off the points, but the channel is fair. The sides of the canal are com-
posed of compact, stupendous mountains, and nearly perpendicular rocky
cliffs, producing pine trees.

Restoration Cove is about 1 mile within the entrance to the eastern
branch of Burke CaJial. It has a fine sandy beach. Tho breadth of tho
cove at its entrance, in a North and South direction, is about IJ mile, and
its depth about three-quarters of a mile. The soundings, though deep, are
regular, from 60 fathoms at the entrance, to 5 and 10 fathoms close to the
shore. The land on the opposite side of the arm is 2^ miles distant. The
tide rises and falls 1 4 feet.

BUBKE CANAL extends to the N.E., maintaining the same breadth.
Its north-western side is formed by a large island, named by Vancouver
ninff Idand. After continuing 11 miles in an easterly direction from tho
N.E. point of Kinj Island, tho canal separates into two arms to tho N.E.
and S.E. at Point Menzies. These arms were named by Vancouver Ber-
tinck Arms. The width of that to the S.E. in general a little exceeds a mile
and tho country exactly resembles that contiguous to the branches, which
have been so repeatedly described.

Sir Alexander Mackenzie reached the Pacific after his long, arduous, and
perilous journey across the continent at this point a month after Vancouver's
party had left. He came to a village of 26 large houses, where Mr. John-
stone had come on June Ist, 1793. He coasted along King Island, and
learned that Macubah (as the natives termed Vancouver) had been there
with his large cauoe. He commenced his return July 22, 1793.

This is as desolate, inhospitable a country as the most melancholy creature
could be desirous of inhabiting.

428 BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

New Aberdeen, a recent e8tabli8hment, is at the head of the N.E. Bentinck
Arm The ohl charts place "the village of llascals" here-an expressive
name It was afterwards called Kougote^,, or lielhmla. The Belhoula, or
Bella Coola River, flows into the head of the arm in a W.S.W. direction.
Much attention has been directed to this place, as a point of departure for the
upper course of the Eraser River, and a "trail" exists to Eort Alexandria
helow the mouth of the Quesnelle.* Captain Mayne gives an account
of several expeditions which have crossed the intermediate country (pages

Th'e N.E. point of King Island was named Point Edward. Opposite
t.) it is the entrance of Lean Canal, which penetrates many miles in a
N E and North direction, terminating in low marshy land.

Cascade Canal is to the N.W. of Point Edward. Its shores are bounded
by precipices more lofty than any hereabouts ; and from the summits of the
mountains, particularly on the N.E. shore, are some extremely grand and
tremendous cascades. The canal which forms the N.W. side of King Island
runs S.W. to Fisher Canal, which separates the southernmost of the Prin-
ces Royal Islands from the main land.

The PRINCESS EOYAL ISLANDS form a portion of that immense ar-
chipelago which here fronts the American continent. On its western side it
is uneven, rocky, and of moderate height. The eastern shore rises more ab-
ruptly, and bounded behind with lofty snowy mountains.

Port John is 10 miles nearly North of the entrance to Burke Canal
before described. It is on the western side of King Island, and forms a
good harbour. Its North point of entrance bears N. by E. 2 mUes from its

South point.

To the North of Port John is the entrance to the canal previously men-
tioned, which passes round the N.W. side of King Island toward Cascade
and Dean Canals. Fisher Canal continues its northern course for 12
miles above Port John, its shores being comparatively of moderate height.
From this point it takes a westerly course to Milbank Sound, and forms the
North limit of the southern Princess Royal Inland. The course is first about
W. by N. i N. a league, the shores being low and rocky, with many detached
rocks lying off them. The channel then takes a more southerly course, and,
although there arc many rocks and breakers in it, they are all sufficiently
conspicuous to be avoided in fair weather.

MILBANK SOUND is an opening between the Princess Royal Islands, in
lat. 15" 13'. Its S.E. point is Cape Swaine, so named after the third lieutenant

. A terrible tragedy occurred on this road in May, 1864. The treachor.mH Indmn«
dcHtroyed nearly the whol. of a party who wore making their way to the Canboo Gold
Fields The particulars aiv quolcl in Mr. F. Whympcr'. interesting work, w ^<, 3-.

*TTC**^'' l-l"^^

N.E. Bentinck
—an expressive
le Belhoula, or
S.W. direction,
eparture for the
<'ort Alexandria
ves an account
country (pages

card. Opposite
lany miles in a

res are bounded
I summits of the
mely grand and
9 of King Island
ost of the Prin-

;hat immense ar-
8 western side it
re rises more ab-

to Burke Canal
nd, and forms a
2 miles from its

previously men-
toward Cascade
n course for 12
moderate height,
id, and forms the
lurse is first about
ith many detached
berly course, and,
re all sufficiently

Royal Islands, in
le third lieutenant

D treachoniUN Indiana
to thp Ciiriboo GoU
work, pp. i\, 35.

MILBANK SOUND.

429

of the Discovery, Vancouver's vossel. Milbank Sound was discovorod and
named by Mr. Duncan. Its N.W. point is Point Ihiij, off which lie sovernl
very barren rocky islets. Tlie southern wide of the thannol or sound, being
entirely covered with trees and with low shores, is very pleasant in appearuneo
but the northern sides are a rude, confused mass of low, rugged cliffs, bounded
by innumerable rocky islets and rocks.

Fort M'LouyJdin, distant a few miles from Milbank Sound, is (or was) one
of the Hudson Bay Company's posts. "This very neat e.stablishment was
planned, in 1837, by Mr. Finlayson, of Eed River, who left the place in an
unfinished state to Mr. Manson, who, in his turn, had certainly made the
most of the capabilities of the situation.

Several inlets or arms run up to the northward from the canal loading
from Fisher Canal into Milbank Sound. They are very similar in character
and need no particular description. The principal arm out of Milbank
Sound is the westernmost, and runs in a general northerly direction for 30
miles, when it divides, one portion continuing to the northward, and a wider
branch extending eastward to Carter Hay and Mussel Canal. These two
last derive their names from one of Vancouver's party having died from the
eflfects of poisonous mussels collected in Poison Cove, lat. 52° 55', long. 128° 1'
W. The whole party who partook of them were seized with a numbness
about their faces and extremities, which soon extended to their whole bodies,
accompanied with sickness and giddiness. This may serve as a caution here,
though generally the shell-fish is wholesome.

From Carter Bay the principal inlet continues its northward course, and
5 miles beyond the junction is an opening, apparently communicating with
the sea, running southward on the western side of the channel; 13 and 17
miles farther on are two openings on the opposite or eastern, which extend
but a short distance inland. Vancouver found scarcely any inhabitants here.
The tides rose 15 feet, and it was high water lO"" 15"" after the moon passed
the meridian. Continuing northward, but bearing more to the westward,
the canal still skirts the western shore of the Princess Royal Island, as far as
its North extreme. Near this, on the eastern .shore, is a commodious cove,
where Vancouver anchored. A league northward is a small inlet, where a
hot spring was discovered.

In sailing among the rocky precipices which compose the shores of the
channels hitherto described, it is not always safe to make too free with them
in sailing by ; for they are frequently fourd to jut out a few yards at or a
little below low water mark ; and if a vessel should ground on any of those
projecting points about high water, she would, on the falling tide, if heeling
from the shore, be in a very dangerous situation.

To the North of this anchorage before mentioned, the channel continues
between the main land and Hawkesbury Island. The shores are like the
rest described, partly composed of lofty steep mountains rising nearly

■.if' I'mSf KS^ fs mmmMmi^^ f^^l ^i ^^f^^-^'r-^- -7s^;r7S^iSSs:s-ns:>r.

4;jo BRITISH COLUMi}IA, ETC.

porpondiculavly from tho sea, and covered from the water fiido to tlioir
Bummits with pine8 and forest trees. It takes an irregular northerly direc-
tion for about IC miles, when it turns eastward to Point Htmiiforlk, placed by
Vancouver in lat. b^ 54", long, (corrected) 128° 33' W.

QAEDNER CANAL runs 45 miles in an irregular course to the eastward ;
its upper part passing through a country that is almost an entirely barren
waste, nearly destitute of wood and verdure, presenting to the eye ore rude
mass of almost naked rocks, rising into lofty mountains, whose towering
summits, seeming to overhang their basis, gives thorn a trenieadous appear-
ance. The whole is covered with perpetual ice and snow, and many water-
falls descend in every direction in the summer.

The North point of Hawkesbury Island is opposite Point Hopkins. Its
South point is Point Cummin;,, in lat. 53- ISJ'. It is thus about 33 miles in
length and from 3 to 11 miles broad. Tho continent to the westward forms
a point, which extends to about the same latitude as the South point of
Hawkesbury Island, and having one of the numerous arms or canals di-
viding them. _ J .1 o xi
The North point of Gil hh is opposite Toint Gumming, and tho howXh
opening to the inlet last mentioned. There is anchorage at this North point,
it i in a bay on the N.E. part of the island, about 2 miles from its
northern extremity on the western shore of the islet. Here Vancouver
anchored in 40 fathoms, stones, shells, and sandy bottom. Vancouver called
it Fisherman Cove. Lat. 53^ 18 J', long. 128'^ 57'.

There is also anchorage directly to the S.W. of the North point of Gil
Isle, or Ysla de Oil, which was so named by Sonr. Caainano, in 1792. It is
about 5 leagues long, North and gouth, and 5 miles broad ; of a moderate
though imoven height. Tho Ma de la Campania, to tho westward of it, has
a conspicuous ridge of mountains, and, when seen from eastward, with a
remarkable peak, nearly in the centre, considerably above the rest.

Nepean Sound is to the northward of these islands, and that of San
Estevan, which is the outermost. Tho general charartor of these islands
differs little from that of the surrounding region. To the north-westward
of these lie tho extensive islands forming I'itt Archipelago and Banks
Island, separated from tho continent by OronviUe Canal, and from each
other by th^ Canal de Principe ; the first so named by Vancouver, on his
exploration in 1793, and tho latter by Senr. Caamano, who first navi-
gated it. n <-, 1 •

GRENVILLE CANAL.— The southern entrance to Grenvillo Canal is
opposite to Fisherman Cove, the North point of Gil Isle. Its dirediuu
N.W. h N., and is nearly straight for 14 miles on this b.;aring to a

small harbour, or rather cove, on its eastern shore. For 2 miles within it
Mr. Wliidbey (July, 1793) found tho sea abounding in sea-otters, who
sported about the boats. At this part it is iKjt more than half a mile wide,

-1 B; T W"!" ' -.'' t r '

.■ ^ ■. — .,-r^ . .m ^. < ni ^F iiw. < ui^ < i.

3r Bido to tlioir
northerly direc-
ifurtU, placed by

the eastwai'd ;
•entirely barren
ho eye ore rudo
whose towering
loiidous appear-
id many water-

t Hopldns. Its
)out 3;5 miles in

1 westward forms

I South point of
ns or canals di-

, and the South
this North point,
miles from its
Here Vancouver
Vaueouver called

orth point of Gil

0, in 1792. It is
[ ; of a moderate
!stward of it, has
eastward, with a
the rest.

and that of San
r of these islands
e north-westward
>lago and Banks
d, and from each
rancouvor, on his

1, who first navi-

rronville Canal is
sle. Its direction
this bearing to a
2 miles within it
in sea-otters, who
I half a mile wide,

GIJENVILLE CANAL.

■i;!l

with straight and compact shores on each side. The shores of the arm
beyond this are mountainous on the East or continental sich*, and low and
rocky on tlie opposite ; both producing pine-trees. From the small cove
m(nitioned the arm continues in th(* same direction for -1 miles furtlier, from
an island off tiie N.W. point of the cove. It then strtftches N.N.AV. J W.,
about 8 miles to tlie South point of an opiming on the east(!rn or continental
shore, about a mile wide, its opposite point of entrance lying North. N.W.
^ mil(>s from this is a small cove on the East slioro ; and 10 miles further,
N.N.W. ! W. is a bay about a mile wide and 2 deep, in a N.E. direction,
with many islets and sunken rocks on it. The (wntinental shore between
those last is hned with innumerable rocks and islets, nor is the middle of
the channel fr(!o from these obstructions. Seven miles to the north-westward
of this, on the opposite or western shore, is an extensive opening, running
to S.S.W., apparently dividing the laud.

To the northward of this opening is a high island, about 7 miles long ;
and 10 miles North of it is Point Lamlert, on the continental shore. To the
N.E. of this point is Port I'Asiwjton, an extensive sound, surrounded by a
moderately elevated country, particularly on the N.W. ; but to the North
and East the view is bounded by lofty barren mountains, covered with per-
petual snow. The entrance to Port Essington is narrowed by a shoal against
I'oint Lambert, forming a rounding spit, of 3 to 6 feet water. The tide
rushes in furiously.

Opposite to the entrance to Port Essington are some islands, forming the
North side of tha opening into Chatliam Sound, to one of which the name of
llanphernj Island was given by Vancouver, from the quantity of excellent
raspberries he found here. The passage through is 2 miles long and about
a mile wide between the islands, but mostly occupied by shoals, which con-
tract it to a very narrow channel close to the southern side. To the N.W. of
tliis channel Chatham Sound is interspersed in most directions with small
islands, rocks, and shoals.

Point Hunt is very conspicuous, and forais the North point of Pitt
Archipelago. It is in lat. 54" 10^, and bears West 3 miles from the above-
mentioned islands. From Point Hunt the shores of the land take an
irregular direction of S.W. A W. to Point Pearce, the intermediate spaco
bounded by innumerable rocks and other impediments. Westward of tliis
again the shore falls back considerably, forming a deep bay, with several
small nings running south-eastward. Cape Ibbetson is the west(;rn point
of this bay, and the N.W. of Pitt Archipelago. It is a very conspicuous
projecting land.

Stephens Island lies to the N.AV. of the.se points, and is about 4 leagues
long. Between Capo Ibbetson and its S.W. point is a cluster of rocky islets
and sunken rocks, which thus Ue in the opening seaward of the channel be-
tween Stephens Island and i'itt Archipelago. Northward of Stephens

•fissss^^n^i^issfm^^fyss^^.y' ^^t^t^m^ih^x -

4;{2 BKITISU COLUMBIA, ETC.

Island is an extensive and intricate clustor ot' islets and rocks, forniiii}; ii
complete labyrintli to navigators, but on its eastern tsido is a very coninin-
dious anchoring place, in lat. o4^ 18', long. i;50°41', where Vancouver stayed
in company with three ships in sean'h of furs, &c., under the conunaiul of
Mr. Brown. The group extends W.N.W., a league and a half from the
North side of Stephens Island, and occupying a space of 2 miles in width.
To the westward of this group, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, lie^ a low
detached rock, with some breakers near it ; there are other lurking rocks
lying about the same distance from St<»i)heu9 Island.

The land, which is separated from the continent by Grenville Canal, and
which we have been describing, although it was not traversed in the extent
of 20 leagues, was still beheved to (ionsist of several islands, and therefore
received the name of Pitt Archipelago, after the celebrated statesman.

The CANAL DE PRINCIPE, between the archipelago and Bank Island,
pxteiuls from the North point of entrance into Nepean Sound to the North
point of Bank Island, first N.W. J N. to the South point of Puerto de Cana-
veral, and thence N.W. by W. i W. to its N.W. point, in all about H
leagues. The southern shore is nearly straight and compact, without sound-
ings ; the northern shore is much broken, bounded by many rocks and islets,
and affording soundings in several places.

Port Stephens is 18 miles from the South end of the channel on tlie
eastern shore. It was so named by Capt. Duncan, in the Princess Royal, in
1788. It is a small opening, the entrance of which is obstructed by many
islets and rocks, presenting no very tempting appearance as a port.

Port de Canaveral (of Senr. Caamano) is also on the eastern shore. Its
entrance, 4i miles wide, seems to be free from obstruction. Off its S.E.
point is a small round island.

CHATHAM SOUND lies between Dundas and Stephens Islands and
the main land. The southern entrances have been before described.
Brotvn Passage enters the sound between the islands to the North of Wte-
phens Island and Dundas Island. This latter, in a N.N.W. direction, is
15 miles long and 5 broad, East and West. The eastern shores of the
sound are low, and somewhat indented with smaU bays, and bounded by
a reef of rocks at the distance of a quarter of a mile off shore. The in-
terior country is snowy mountains. The shores and islands in the sound
produce large numbers of pine trees. In the northern part of the sound
are two clusters of rocks with breakers around, one S.S.W. i W. 8 miles,
and the southernmost S.W. by S. 10 J miles from Point Maskelyne. By
daylight they are easily avoided, but by night or in fogs they must be very
dangerous.

Point Maskelyne, so named after the astronomer, forms the S.E. point of
the entrance to Obvsorvatory Inlet and Portland Canal. Oil" it lie two rocky

PORT SIAirSUN.

433

rocks, forming a
B a very ooiiimo-
^'aiicouvor stayed
tlie cominuiid of
a half from tlw
miles in width,
miles, lit'j a low
or lurking rooks

Qville Canal, and
3ed in the extcnit
is, and thereforo
statesman.

and Bank Island,
imd to the North
ji Puerto de Cana-
in all about 14
it, without sound-
Y rocks and islets,

3 channel on tlie
Princess Royal, in
itructed by many
,s a port.

istern shore. Its
.on. Off its S.E.

lens Islands and
before described,
he North of Wte-
'J.W. direction, is
ern shores of the
, and bounded by
BF shore. The in-
ands in the sound
part of the sound
.W. i W. 8 miles,
t Maskelyne. By
they must be very

s the S.E. point of
Dff it lie two rocky

islets, and to the South of it a rocky island close to the shore. The opjmsitn
or N.W. point is Point Wales.

Works Canal.— Immediately East of Point MaskoljTio is the entrance to
a branch which takes a S.E. direction for 32 miles ; its head approaching
within about half a mile of the N.E. part of Tort Essington, tlius forming
the land into a peninsula. Its S.W. shores are nearly straight and com-
pact ; its general width from Ijto 2 miles, excepting near the entrance.
An arm diverges from its N.E. shore, at 23 miles within tho entrance, and
trends in a general N.E. direction, but is made into a tortuous channel by
a remarkably steep, rocky precipice, which at high water becomes an island.
It had formerly been appropriated to the residence of a very numerous tribe
of Indians.

POET SIMPSON was surveyed by Mr. Inskip and the officers of H.M.S.
Virago, under Captain Prevost, E.N., in 1853. The southern entrance to it
between Finlayson Island and the main is 4 cables wide where narrowest,
and li mile long; it is very deep, but there are some sunken rocks near
the shores. The middle entrance between the South end of Birnie Island
and the North point of Finlayson Island is 1 J mile wide, but has a dangerous
middle ground, leaving an entrance on either side of it into the northern or
southern harbours. This middle ground reaches to within 2 cables' lengths
of the peninsula near which the fort stands. There is a rocky channel North
of Birnie Island, and a deep but„narrow channel between the peninsula and
the tail of the middle bank. The fort stands on the S.E. side of the cove,
on the North side of the neck. The anchorage is in lat. 54° 34' N., long.
130°25i'W. High water 12'' 35-"; spring tides rise 21 J feet, and neaps
Mi feet.

At 3 miles West of the South point of Birnie Island is a reef called the
Pointers.

The Skina Erer, which is probably the Simpson or Babine River, enters
the S.E. part of Works Canal, at 30 miles from Fort Simpson, and 10 from
Port Essington. The salt water here is of a light blue colour, like that near
the Fraser River.

Coal is found on the banks of the Skina River. It was visited by Mr.
Downie in August, 1859, and may prove to be an important attraction at
some future period.*

• Mr. Downie says : At Kitsagatala (on the Skina River) we entered on a most exten-
sive coal country, the seams being in sight, and cut through by the river, and running up
the banks on both sides, varying in thickness from 3 to 35 feet. The veins are larger on
the East side, and are covered with soft sandstone ; on the West side quartz lines tho se;inis,
which are smaller. The veins dip into the bank for a mile along the river, and could
easily be worked by tunnels on the face, or by sinking shafts from behind on tho tin Is, as
they run in soft earth. I have seen no coal like this in all my travels in British Columbia
and Vancouver Island. (See Capt. Maynt, Appendix, p, 4Sl.)

North Pacific. 2 f

,(>j

,S3EiESE3SK'S4'SW^vi'a5:«3(!fiii^

4,14 BTJITISIl COLUMBIA, ETC.

Fort Simpson, one of tho ITudson's Bay Company's oataUislimonts. wn^
originally lormcd nt tho moutli of tho Nans Kiver, but was roinovod to tho
North point of ChiniHaiii p(>ninsula, washed on threo sides by Chathnni
Sound, I'ort Essint,'ton, and Works Canal. It is the resort of a vast number
of Indians. Tho anehorago is in lat. 64^ 153' 25', long, lao^ l«'.-(Sir Clo...
Simpson, vol. i. p. 207.)

At tho mouth of Works Canal, N.E. of Point Maskolyno, is an island
which divides tho entrance into two channels. In tho roar of -his is a short
arm caUod Nim Hay, and further N.E. is one more extensive.

OBSERVATORY INLET.— The principal inlet runs in a N.E. h N. direc-
tion, and at 21 miles above Points TMaskolyne and Wales the Portland Canid
diverges from the principal one at Point Eamsden. Off this point are som.>
dangerous rocks, only visible at low water, and opposite to it is a deep bay.
with very shallow water all around it, except in the N.E. part, where a branch
enters, bringing down muddy water, which is distinguished flowing domi
tho principal arm.

Salmon Cove is 20 miles above Point Eamsden, and on tho western shore
of Observatory Inlet. It affords good anchorage, and every convenience.
Hero Vancouver's vessel remained for somo time, in July, 1793 ; and here
he placed his observatory, from which circumstance tho name of tho inlet
is derived. A very great abundance of salmon were taken here, up a very
fine nm of fresh water that flows into tho cove ; but they wore small,
insipid, of a very inferior kind, partaking in no degree of the flavour of
European sidmon.

Tho lat. of the observatory was deduced as 55° 15' 34', long. 131" 3' 30' ;
variation 25^^ 18' E., dip. 75° 54V. High water at 1" 8- after the moon
passes the meridian, and tho tide generaUy rose about 16 feet.

Beyond Salmon Cove the inlet extends 5 leagues in a North direction,
when tho western arm terminates, and tho eastern arm extends the same
distance, and forais tho mouth of the River Simpson. The head of Obsei-va-
tory Inlet is much indented with small bays and coves, and abounding in
Bomo places with sunken rocks.

PORTLAND CANAL (so named from the noble family of Bentinck)
diverges from Point Eamsden, in a N. by W. h W. direction, for about 5
miles ; thence it bears in a more northerly direction 5 leagues farther, and
then trends a little to tho eastward of North, terminating in low marshy
land, in lat. 55° 45', 70 milos from its entrance in Chatham Sound. The
shores of this inlet are nearly straight, and in general Uttle more than a
mile asvmder. composed mostly of high rocky cliffs, covered with pine trees
to a considerable height ; but the ulterior country is a compact body of high
barren mountains, covered with snow. As the surveying party ascended,
salmon in abundance were leaping in all directions.

• [•^ • ^^.rjigf 'j ^Kiy^ ti :, T p,i ' M-i!f' ' i«,i9K'n.m-'V ' ^^ '' '' "' "" '" *"*'" '■'''"^^

aWisiiments. wn^
9 ri'inovod to tlii>
ides by Clifttlinm
of a vast niunlji'V
D" IS'.— (Sir CriM).

lyno, is an island
of iliis is a short
vo.

a N.E. J N. diroc-
ho Tortland Cnnid
lis point aro some
it is a deep bay,
irt, whoro a branch
hod flowing down

. tho western shoro
every convonionco.
y, 1793 ; and hunt

name of tho inlet
en hero, up a very

they wore small,

of the flavour of

'.long. 131" 3' 30";

8™ after tho moon
) feet.

a North direction,

1 extends the samo
le head of Obsei-va-

and abomiding in

imily of Bentinck)
'ection, for about 5
eagues farther, and
;ing in low marshy
ithani Sound. Tlio
,1 little more than a
>red with pine trees
)rapact body of high
'ing party ascended,

tiUEEN CnARLOTTE ISLANDS.

Tho northern shoro of tlu! inlet, between Point Wales and Point Ranis-
den, is formed by several islands, behind which a channel runs pacallcl with
the direction of the main inlet. This gradually decreases in width soutli-
westward, continuing 13 miles from its N.E. entrance to an opening to the
S.E. into the main channel. Pursuing tho same dinn'tion, it enters much
broken land, intci'st'cted by arms, forming an island about 10 mil(>s in
circuit, to tho N.E. of which is an arm running in a N.E. direction, ending
in low, steep, rocky shores.

At 7 miles a little to tho North ox West from I'oint Wales is the S.W.
extremity of an island, from whence an arm extends in n N. J W. direction,
terminating in a fresh-water brook, in lit. -'54'' 5(5', long. 13(P 40'.

Tho Portland Canal, which may be considered to terminate here*, is tho
boiindary between the British possessions and tho newly-acquired Alaska
territory of the United States, is only frequented by the Hudson's Bay
Company's ofhcers in their steam-vessel for the purposes of occasional trade
with the natives. Tho continental shore to tho northward belonged to
llussia, and was coded, by purchnso, to tho United States in 1867, as de-
tailed in the next chapter. One of the most important features of this
region, as yet but little known and undeveloped, is tho extensive archi-
pelago, named Queen Charlotte Islands, which is imperfectly described as
ibllows.

aXTEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

This land was discovered nearly at the same period by the navigators of
two nations. La Pcrouse made the outer coast on August 10th, 1786, and
followed it from South to North, for 50 leagues, in the ensuing ten days.
Captain ;Lowrie, in the Snow, Captain Cook and Captain Guise, in the Kv-
periment, tailed from Nootka on July 27th in the same year, and made tho
land in question soon afterwards, though the day itself is not now known.
Thus the honour of discovery belongs to both tho English and French. The
name by which it is now known is derived from tho vessel in which Captain
Dixon made it in the year following, but only assumed that it was an island
from conjecture, as it was not proved to Le such till Captain Douglas, in the
Iphigenia, sailed through the strait which divides it from the continent of
America. It has also been called Washington Island, by Ingraham. Dixon
Channel, which runs in between (iuoen Charlotte Islands and the Prince of
Wales Archipelago, to the North of it, was discovered, perhaps, by Ensign
Juan Perez, in 1774. It was next seen by Dixon, on July 1st, 1786, thouglx
he himself acknowledges that Captain Douglas was the first who sailed
through it. He then sailed nearly round the island, afterwards repairing to
Nootka. The eastern coast of the island was also examined and traded on
by Captain Duncan, in the Princess lioyal, in 1787 ; after doing so he pro-

2 F 2

!.i^iMLV:s<^'S!^^'i-'Jl^'^'-^^V7^-ti^^^'SS't'i^--~'"'-"'

43G

QUEEN CIIAllLOTTE ISLANDS.

reeded to the onstwurd to some other islands, which he named the Princess
Eoyal Islands (which have been before described), but which have been
HUpposed to be identical with the archipelago of San Lazaro of De Fonta,
jjreviously considered to be apocryphal. A part of the features of this latter
were examined by Duncan, and he anchored in nineteen of its harbours, not
without being frequently exposed to the danger of losing his vessel, but he
was indemnified by an ample trade in furs.

The outer or western coast only was cursorily examined by Vaucouver in
1794, and the North side was sailed along by Captain D. Jacinto Caamano
in 1791. That it consisted of several islands instead of one, as has usually
been considered, was inferred by Dixon, or rather by Beresford, who wrote
part of his voyage in 1787.

Thus our knowledge remained until quite a recent period, although it was
regularly visited by traders. But when the adjacent countries became the
scene of much interest from the discoveries of gold and coal, this group was
also visited with the same object, and in 1853 H.M.S. Virago went around
them, and to Mr. Geo. H. Inskip, E.N., we owe the chief part of the en-
suing nautical description. It was examined in some parts, when gold was
' reported,* by Mr. Downie in July, 1859.

A more complete examination of the geology and natural history of the
group was made by Robert Brown, Esq., F.E.G.S., in 1866, and from his
paper to the Eoyal Geographical Society in 1869, we also have derived some
information.

Climate. — Though situated so far North, the climate of the Queen Char-
lotte Islands, from their insular position, is much milder than that of the
mainland. Some men who wintered upon them described the temperature
as being moderate, little snow, and a great deal of rain. Indeed, all North
of Eraser Eiver the climate is very moist. At Sitka it rains almost continu-
ously, the average rainfall amounting to nearly 89 inches per annum. When
I arrived, on Ist of April, all the snow had vanished off the low lands, and
the weather was mild and pleasant. Mosquitoes were abundant, and to-
wards the end of the month humming-birds had begun to make their ap-
pearance. — {R. Brown.)

GENERAL BEMABES. — The following sailing directions for the Queen
Charlotte Islands commence at Cape St. James, their southern extreme, and
from thence proceed along their eastern side, named Dixon Channel ; round
Eose Spit, their north-eastern point ; along the northern shore through
Parry Channel ; and back to Cape St, James, by the Pacific or western side.

The Queen Charlotte Islands consist of three principal islands, together

• There "as a tradition that a Sandwich Islander, in the employ of the Hudson's Bay
Companj", while skinning a deer sold by an Indian, found that it had been shot with a
nugget of gold. — if. Brown, Esq.

1 the I'rineesa
ich have been
of De Fonta.
)8 of this latter
harbours, not
vessel, but he

Vaucouver in
cinto Caamanu
as has usually
rd, who wrote

Ithough it was
es became the
bhis group was

went around
lart of the en-
fhen gold was

history of the
, and from his
a derived some

B Queen Char-
an that of the
le temperature
eed, all North
Imost continu-
annum. When
low lands, and
ddant, and to-
nake their ap-

for the Queen

1 extreme, and
hannel ; round
shore through
r western aide.
ands, together

be Hudson's Bay
been shot with a

TAPE ST. .TAMFS-riOTTSTON STEWART CIIANNKI.. 4;;7

with several Hmnller ones, and are situated between Int. 31° 57' and 6 J"
21' N., and long. 131^ 11' and 133"^ O'W. Tho chnnnols soparnting tho
principal islands aro, Houston Stewart Channel, running botwnon Trevost
Island (the southernmost), and Moresby Island to tli.' nortlnvard of it ; and
Skidegate Channel which separates Moresby Island from Oruham Island
(tho northornmoRt).

CAPE ST. JAMES.— In approaching Capo St. Jamos from tho southward,
the first land that will bo seen (if it is clear) is tiie highest part of Provost
Island, at the back of Cape St. James. This capo is formed by several islets
and rocks, and as it is reported that a sunken ledge extends nearly 5 miles
off it, precaution is necessary in approaching this part of the coast. With
Cape St. James bearing S. 70° W. about 3J miles, and the outermost rock
above water S. 41° W. Mr. Inskip had 90 fathoms.

Mr. Gray, in the Columbia, informed Vancouver that he had struck and
received some material damage upon a sunken rock, which ho represented
as lying at a much greater distance than tho above, though njarly in the
same line of direction. The cape was so named by Mr. Dixon from the
common circumstance of the saint's day on which it was first seen.

HOUSTON STEWAET CHANNEL.-From Capo St. James the coast
trends nearly N.W. to a well-defined headland, and after rounding it the
eastern entrance to Houston Stewart Channel and Rose Harbour will open
out, the coast between being much broken, with one round thickly wooded
and conspicuous island, and several little islets and rocks along it. At
about 4 miles from the entrance there are 90 fathoms, and +he water gra-
dually shoals to 20 fathoms to within a mile of it.

In the eastern entrance to this channel, which is about three-quarters of
a mile wide, there are 20 fathoms water. Within the northern point {For-
tyth Point), and on the same side, is a snug bay, bordered by a sandy beach.
A quarter of a mile inside Forsyth Point, and a little to the northward of
the line of direction of the channel, is a rocky patch with kelp, having 1
fathom on it ; a vessel therefore should not haul to the northward too soon
after entering. On the southern side are some small wooded islands, here
and there fringed with outlying patches of kelp, which latter should always
be avoided. At a mile and a quarter W.S.W. from Forsyth Point is a rook
{Trevan Rock), lying nearly mid-channel, contracting the passage on its
northern side to rather less than half a mile.

The southern arm of this channel is about 3 miles long, and three-quarters
of a mile wide, with several small islands (the Shangoi) at its southern end
or entrance from the Pacific. The shores of both sides are bold and densely
wooded. A vessel coming from the southward, and wishing to go in by
this entrance, when abreast of Cape St. James, should close the land to 1 i
mile, and follow it along for about 12 miles, which will lead right into it.
By leaving the largest and outer Shangoi Island on the port bund (off tho

uH4»€-«f:5f;r*"

•5..W-T^''"'Wy^-^^ ^'^'«-»- -''

l.m (.H'KKN CIlAin.nTTK ISI.ANDS.'

Hoiithorn oud of wliii li Ih an nxtciisivo lod(,'n of rockH iu ii H.W. diroction),
thf chaiiiH)! will hIidw ilHoIf.

Rose Harbour.— Tho northern arm of IIouBton Stnwurt Stniif, or Horn
Harbour (which is socuro and cupaciouH), runs up in a nortlnrly direction
for ;} milos from its junction with IIou«ton Stowart Channol, and is a. con-
tinuation, in nearly a sfraipht lino with tho lant-numtionod portion of it.

Tho country around this locality is mountainous and tliicky wooded ; but
the timber is smaller, and loss valuable than that in tho magnificent fort>st.s
of Vancouver Island. Tho soil is poor, but there are indications of copper
in difTorent places. The sea otter, tho fur of which fetches very high prices
in China, are numerous.

About 3 milos to thct northward of the eastern entrance to Houston
Stewart Channel, and at about 2 milos off tho coast, is a ledge of rocks,
lying a little above water ; tho sea breaks violently over them, and for a
considerable distance around. From Houston Stewart Channel to Cum-
showas Harbour on tho eastern side, a distance of about 50 miles, the coast
is high, and broken into numerous inlets, with many islets along it, probably
affording good harbours. Tho dotted line, delineating this side of Uueon
Charlotte Islands on Vancouver's chart, is very erroneous.

Cumshewas Harbour lies nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W., and ■ reported to
bo both largo and safe. A spit runs off ita southern po of entrance
nearly two-thirds of the way across to the northern side, i which tho
sea breaks heavily ; tho channel in being over a bar with 8 fatlioms on it.

8KIDEGATE HARBOUR and CHANNEL.— About 20 milos to the N.W.
ot Cumshewas is tho eastern entrance to Skidegato Harbour and Channel ;
the intermediate coast being lower and more level than that to the south-
ward, with an extensive bank along it for some miles before coming to
Skidegato, with as little as 7 fathoms, when 3 to 4 miles off it. Th( inlet
,.r entrance to the channel was surveyed by Lieut. Daniel Pander, li.N.,

ill lS(i«.

Skidegate Harbour is very spacious, and communicates with tho Pacific at
Cartwright Sound, near Point Buck ; the channel, however, is intricate, and
only navigable for canoes a portion of the way through. An extensive spit
extends from the East side or point of entrance (which is low and woody),
in a N.W. direction for about 4 miles, to within 1 mile of Dead-tree Point
(the West point of entrance), having from 1 to 2 fathoms on it at low water.
A rock lies near its outer extreme, just awash at low water, spring tides.
This rock is about 1 mile from Dead-tree Point, but the available passage
between is not more than half a mile in width, as the spit extends beyond
the rock, and tho shore near Dead-tree Point is not bold. The point is
called Dead-tree Point, from the number of dead trees upon it.

SKIBEGATE. — The village of Skidegato is situated in the bay, off which
are the village islands, and consists of many houses fronting the beach, uU

s^r ^ ^-'Vi"-^ ' tw»-i'^'^ ' .> 'g y- ' ^"' =jg' "'

8.W. (lirGction),

Striiit, or Roho
irtlu'ily (liroetion
1, iiiul is a con-
portion of it.
ky wooded ; but
ip;nifi(ont foroHtH
cut ions of coppor
vpry high prices

mco to ITouHton
i ledgo of rocks,
thorn, and for a
;!hannol to Cum-
) milos, the couat
along it, probably
iis sido of Queen

md • reported to
p(i of entrance
le, I which the
8 fatlioms on it.
tiiiloB to the N.W.
lur and Channel;
that to the south-
before coming to
off it. Th( inlet
iel Tander, li.N.,

(vith the Pacific at
r, is intricate, and
An extensive spit
1 low and woody),
f Dead-tree Point
)n it at low water,
ater, spring tides,
available passage
it extends beyond
)ld. The point is
lit.

the bay, ofl' which
;ing the beach, all

MAHSKT ll.\l{i<UUU.

•I3'.l

of which aro vory dirty, and smol! strongly of lish. Tho !ii(1i(in« nm a linor
mco than th(» Viincouvcr iMlaiidors, and uUliuiigh vny dirty, aro much
cleaner in tliojr pornonal aiipoanmco. Somo diistunco from ilio aru lionigo,
and on tho sido of a moiintain, aro large fjuantitioH of cot//, of u dcHcriptiou
very similar lo that discovorcd at Nanaimo in Vancouvor Island *

Tho coast lictwoon .Skidogato and Point Ifoso is rating low , with daiig*>roUB
Hats running off it, and should lie given a borth of at least (1 or 7 miles.
Cape Jiall, nearly 20 miles from Hkidegate Bar, is very conspicuous, having
tt remarkable white cliff on it, with lower dill's on either side ; it cannot bo
mistaken, for tliero is no other place like it betwinm Skidn^Mto and I'oiut
Kose. Captain McNeil, of the Hudson's Bay Company's service, says, that
he found a rock about fi miles East of Capo Jlall, with only 2 fatlioms on it.

Rose or Invisible Point, the north-oasteru extreme of Queen Charlotto
Islands, is h>w, with a spit running olf it in a N.H direction for nearly 5
milos, and is exceedingly daiigcTous. With the point bearing W.S.VV.
about G miles, a round-shaped hill, called Mturomi, will open out clear of tho
land oif which lioso Hpit runs ; it is about 300 or 400 foot high, but shows
out so distinctly as to look almost an island. This part of Dixon Channel,
between tho land near liose Spit and Stephens Island on the continental
side, is about 20 milos wide, with soundings iiuito across.

The land from Hose Point to Virago Sound in low, and thickly wooded for
some miles from tho shore, which has a bank running off it, and should bo
aiiproachc' with caution, with tho lead constantly going.

MASSE i' HARBOUR.— Kathor more than 20 milos S.W. i S. from Point
Rose is Masset Harbour, the entrance to which is formed by a low point,
with a W ge of -ocks half a mile off it covered with kelp, on the western
side ; and tho point of a long spit {JVaiqun) partly dry (the surf usually
breaking the whole length of it) on the eastoni, tho passage between having
an extensive bar. With the outer western point bearing W. by N. 1 mile,
there are 5 fathoms at low water ; from this position tho course in is about
S. by E. i E., tho soundings over the bar varying from 5 to 3 fathoms, for
about 3 miles, to abreast of a village on tho western shore, a little moro
than a mile from what may be termed the inner or proper entrance to tho
harbour ; the water then suddenly deepens to 9 and 11 fathoms, tho channel
lying in the direction of the eastern point of what has been called the inner
entrance. Just inside, and round this point, is a pretty bay, with a beach,
containing the principal tillage.

* This was found by Capt. Torrens in 1869, but the party were nearly rnurJered by tlio
Indians. It was examined by Mr. Brown in 18G0, .undhasays: On tho North side of
Skidogato Bay the tunnel has been driven into the hill in a westerly course, showing thu
structure of the bods. This tunnel is 112 feet long. The coal has all the cliaracter of an-
thi-acito, but is altered and metamorphosed by tho presence of igneous rock in a remarkable
manner.

440

QUEEN (CHARLOTTE ISLANDS.

y'^-^J

Edensaw, the chief of the neighbouring tribe, .and who is a very intpUi-
gunt and (when it suits him) valuable person to a stranger navigating tliin
coast, says, that when the Indians wish to go to Skidegate, they pass on to
the head of the harbour in their canoes, and walk across a mountainous
neck of land.

VIRAGO SOUND. — Between Masset and Virago Sound, which lies about
10 miles to the westward, there is good anchorage in some places, in which
a vessel might remain a night, instead of keeping under w i.y, or cruising
about with a south-east mnO, and the weather thick. The outer anrhorage
of Virago Sound is sheltered from all winds to the southward of East and
West.

The inner harbour of Virago Sound (the native name of which is Naden),
is very capacious, and sheltered from every wind. For about 1 mile outside
the entrance there are several banks, formed probably by the sand, &c.,
washed down with the ebb, which runs with considerable strength. The
rise and fall of the tide is about 13 ft. The narrowest part of the entrance
is about half a mile wide, with a deep-water channel, which for the first 2
miles is intricate, and should not be attempted until properly sounded. The
western side of one part of the channel, which may be called the narrows, is
completely blocked up by rocks.

Parry Channel, called after the late Sir E. Parry, separates North Island
(which forms the north-western extremity of the Uueen Charlotte Islands)
li-om Graham Island. Ledges of rock run ofiP the southern side for about a
mile, but there is a good and clear channel between them and North Island.
The tide rushes through this channel, and forms a perfect race. On the
South side is Edensaw's Village, from which he intended removing to Virago
Sound. Just within the eastern entrance of Parry Channel, and on the
South side, is a bay with anchorage in it.

On the South side of North Island, in Parry Channel, is a snug cove,
called Ilcmlung. It is reported that whalers occasionally anchor in it. At
the head of the cove is a sandy beach, with a stream of water running down
it. The whole island is thickly wooded.

On the eastern side of North Island there is said to be a very good an-
chorage in a bay which was formerly often used by the vessels belonging to
the old North "West company.

Two or three miles to the southward of Parry Channel is an indentation of
the coast, which might be taken as its entrance by a vessol coming from the
southward — a mistake that might lead to serious consequences, as the whole
coast, as far as Point Frederick, appears to contain several open bays, with
outlyirg rocks off each of them.

HIFPA ISLAND* lies 25 miles further to the southward, and is high and

,. iywmn.^j-''

who is a very intelli-
anger navigating this
>gate, they pass on to

across a mountainous

ound, which lies about
some places, in which

under way, or cruising
The outer anchorage

southward of East and

ue of which is Naden),
)r about 1 mile outside
ably by the sand, &c.,
ierable strength. The
ist part of the entrance
1, which for the first 2
iroperly sounded. The
)e called the narrows, is

separates North Island
leen Charlotte Islands)
uthern side for about a
bhem and North Island.
I perfect race. On the
ided removing to Virago
•y Channel, and on the

lannel, is a snug cove,
anally anchor in it. At
. of water running down

to be a very good an-
the vessels belonging io

annel is an indentation of

a vessol coming from the

nsequences, as the whole

several open bays, with

uthward, and is high and

THE SKIDEGATE CHANNEL.

bold to seaward. This portion of the coast is higher and more broken than
the former, the openings appearing deeper, neither does it soem to have so
many rocLj lying off it. The Indians show some good harbours towards
Hippa. When abreast of Hippa Island, Foint Buck, 30 miles distant, and
also Cape Henry, 10 or 12 miles further on, can be seen, the coast presenting
the same high and broken appearance as the preceding 25 miles. All the
points along this part much resemble Poiuc Buck, which is rather low and
rugged, jutting out from the high laud at the back.

This coast of the island, as has been before mentioned, is very nncom-
pletely known ; and at a few miles South of Hippa Island Vancouver places
the entrance of Rennell Sound, so named by Dixon, la^.. 53° 28' N. The land
appears much broken, and the coast composed of steep mountainous preci-
pices, divided from each other by watci. These gradually increase in height
in coming southward

The SKIDEOATE CHANNEL, separating G aham Island from Moresby
Island, lies in lat. 53° 10'. The eastern entrance has been alluded to on
page 438. It requires much care in entering, ". ■ Mr. Brown says that
they knocked the false keel off their schooner in crossing the spit at the
entrance.

Point Buck. — This point is on the southern side of the channel (Skidegate
Channel), which leads through to Skidegate, having a large high island,
Chalque, just to the northward of it, and another, much smaller and peaked,
standing out clear of the land, at about 3 or 4 miles fui-ther to the north-
ward, lying in Cartwright Sound, which is formed by Point Buck on thfl
South, and Point Hunter on the North.

FORT KUPER.— Just to the southward of Point Buck, in Englefield Bay,
is an opening, leading into a harbour This bay has Point Buck on the
North, and Cape Henry on the South, with Kuper Island (Kennedy Island)
in its southern part, having a channel on either side leading into Mitchell
Harbour, known also as Gold Harbour.

Inskip Cliannel. — The northern, or Inskip Channel, which leads round
the North side of Kuper Island, was first used by H.M.S. Virago, in 1863.
its entrance being a few miles South of Point Buck. It is about SJ miles
long, and half a mile wide. A little without it, there are some small islands
on either side, but there can be no difficulty in discovering the passage in.
In the chanral there is no oottom at 60 fathoms, but at the entrance a cast
was got with 35 fathoms, on a halibut bank. At a short distance inside the
islands, on the port side of the entrance, is a village belonging to the Kil-

ibitcd by a tribe, who Ibrliticd

themselves precisely in the manner of a hippa (e-pah) of the New Zealanders. It is called
'luequelz by the Indians. Mr. Brown believes that native lead ie found in the first inlet
above Hippa Islaud, at a placf call'jd ChalUm.

|is^{3TKr:,v.rrr,icj^':!BrK'^3Br?^s:;p3!ffi»KS:i't T^^.T^^r-^-f^'

442 OaiEEN CnAELOTTE ISLANDS.

kite tribe. Further in, on tho same side, and about 3i miles up, is a deep
opening, and where this and Moore Channel meet are two other openings to
harbours, with some small islands lying near them. This channel is no
doubt oipially as safe as the other.

Moore Channel, the channel on the South side, is named after Moore, late
master of H.M.8. Thetis, who made a complete survey of both it and Mit-
chell Harbour whilst in that ship, which was sent to protect British interest
in 1 852, during the time that a large number of adventurers from California
had collected hero to dig and search for gold, some of that metal h.iving been
discovered by the Indians. This channel, which was always used by the
vessels which conveyed these peonle, is 5 miles long in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction, and half a mile broad, the shore on each side being bold
of approach, high, and covered with trees down nearly to the water's edge.
In mid-channel there is no bottom at VO fathoms. On the North side, just
without tho entrance, aro some small rocky islets {Miyrenhy Hands), and on
the South side a few rocks close in shore.

Mitchell or Gold Karbour,* or SKiton, is about 2 J miles deep, and half a
mile wide, surrounded by precipitous and densely wooded hills, from 700 to
800 feet in height, and at the head of Thetis Cove is a sand/ beach and
stream of water. At If mile up the harbour is Sansom Island a small spot
covered with trees, and the ruins of a number of huts. The anchorage lies
inside this, in Thetis Cove, keeping Sanson. Island on the port hand ; the
passage being a cable wide, with deep water. This cove is completely land-
locked, but squalls, frequently accompanied by rain, come over the hills with
considerable violence. At upwards of hulf a mile from the mouth of the
harbour, on the starboard side going in, is the Thorn Eock, with only 3 feet
on it at low water, lying about a cable's length from the shore ; and on the
opposite side, not quite at so great a distance from the land, but a little
further out, is another rock. Those are dangerous to vessels working in or
out; but if the wind be fair, and a ship is kept mid-channel, there is

nothing to fear.

Douglas Harbour.— At one mUe to the westward of Mitchell Harbour,
and on the same side of Moore Channel, is the entrance to Douglas Harbour,
apparently very similar to the former, from which it is separated by Josling

peninsula.
TASSO HAEBOUE.— fty>e Hem j, which I'.es 3 miles from the entrance to

* In 1852, tho Hudson's Bay Company despatched a parly in tho brig Una, to exam.no
this place for gold, and Mr. Mitchell, who commanded the ship, coUectod about 1,000 dol-
lars worth of gold, but the Indians stole it as soon as it was blasted, so the expedition broke
up Again in July, 1859, a party under Mr. Downie attempted to find gold hero, but
decided that further search was useless.-Seo Captain Mayne's British Columbia, pages
186, 187.

3 up, is a deep
her openings to
I channel is no

fter Moore, late
)th it and Mit-
British interest
fror.i California
stal having been
lys used by the
an E.N.E. and
I side being bold
le water's edge.
North side, just
Mands), and on

deep, and half a
ills, from 700 to
and/ boach and
iind a small spot
le a\ichorage lies

port hand ; tlie
completely land-
iver the hills with
;he mouth of the

with only 3 feet
hore ; and on the
and, but a little
Is working in or
channel, there is

litchell Harbour,
Douglas Harbour,
larated by Josling

im the entrance to

brig Una, to examino
cted about 1,000 dol-
3 the expedition broko
I find gold hero, hut
tiah Columbia, pages

TAS8() 1IA1{1U)U1{.

443

Moore Channel, terminates in a steep slope, with a hummock at tho ex-
tromity; 18 miles to tho soutliwird of this is Tasso Harbour, tho intormo-
diate coast being high and rising abruptly from tho sea. Its entrance is
short and narrow, but tho harbour itself is extensive, with very deep water
in many places ; there is anchorage in it, near some small islands on the
port hand going in ; it has only boon visited by u few of tho Hudson's Bay
Company's officers. Between Tasso and Cape St. James are other openings,
which, according to Indian report, load into good harbours, tlio southern-
most of which is that leading into Houston Stewart Channel and Rose
Harbour. Inside the Shangoi Islands, and close to Houston Stewart Chan-
nel, is an opening, called by the natives Louiscoon, and reported to be a
good harbour, not unliko Eose Harbour. This coast is also apparently very
bold, excepting off the Shangoi Islands, and like tlio previous 18 miles.
Tho land near Cape St. James has fewer trees on it than that to the
northward.

Natives.— The Indians are very fond of travelling, and make voyages of
several hundred miles in their canoes, visiting the Eussian settlement of
Sitka, at the North, and Victoria Ha hour on the South.

The possession of slaves is allowed, and there aro several of this unfortu-
nate class amongst them ; their owners are not held responsible for their
manner of treating them, which is frequently very cruel.

Supplies. — Halibut, salmon, herrings, and several other descriptions of fish
abound. Immense flocks of wild geese and ducks at times visit the islands.
Potatoes grow in abundance in most parts, and thrive exceedingly well,
forming an important article of food among the natives. These are all
to be bought either for money, strong cotton shirts, cotton dresses, plain
cotton, knives, tobacco, mother of pearl jacket-buttons for ornamenting
their blankets, or any of the articles commonly bartered among savages.

Tides. The following brief account of the tides along the North and

north-east coa.st of the islands is given by a Hudson's Bay Company's

olHcor.

Tlie course and strength of the tides are not regular, being greatly influ-
enced by thv3 winds. At full and change they are very rapid. Time of high
water about 12'' 30-".

The flood, coming from the westward round North Island, sets along the
Masset shore for Browns Passage, spreading about 15 miles round Point
Eose towards Cape Ibbetson, whore it meets the flood from the southward,
from Skidegate, Banks Island, and Canal de Principe ; consequently between
Point Eose, Cape Ball, Capo Ibbetson, and thence 8.E. 4 or 5 leagues, the
tides are very irregular.

The tides between Cape Murray, Point Percy, and Isle do Zayas are the
strongest and most irregular, causing a heavy and confused eea, so much so
that in bad weather it has tho appearance of breakers.

■- iJ^Jf ^'.'= ' ' VS ' -' — '^^ H > »^WM*"A^r ' 4'- ! j ' ;iV^- '^V- '. ^}-

444

BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC.

In concluding this account of the coast of the newest of the British colo-
nies, it may be remarked that the wonderful change in its fortunes, and the
sudden acquisition of importance to civilization is tlmost unparalleled. It is,
therefore, difficult to keep pace with the progress of a country which till so
recent a period was only considered fit to be occupied by the trading posts
for the purchase of furs.

The nautical descriptions are, however, tolerably complete, and this is
also an evidence of the great progress of the times. The singular and
rugged coasts of the region are for the most part most excellently surveyed
and described by Captain Eichards in the Vancouver Island Pilot ; when that
is wanting the work of Vancouver is our chief guide ; and this work has had
but scant justice awarded to its great merit.* Whether the country will
rise to be the home of a great and populous nation is a question which may
fairly left lo future controversy.

• Besides the excellent narratives of Captain Mayne and Mr. F. Whymper, which
describe many parts of this coast, " The North-west Passage by Land," by Lord Milton
and Dr. Cheadle, will, with the others, give a good insight into the early condition of the
colonies. " Vancouver Island and British Columbia," by the Rev. Matthew Macfie, F.R.G.S.,
1866; "British Columbia and Vancouver Island," by Duncan G. F. Macdonald, E.G.,
1862; "Vancouver Island and British Columbia," by Alexander Rattray, M.D., 1862;
" Travels in British Columbia," &c., by E. E. Barrett-Lennard, 1862 ; may be consulted
with much advantage. Mr. Sproat's "Scenes and Studies of Savage Life," are very in-
tererting. As he largely employed native labour at his saw mills at Albemi, in
Barclay Sound, for many years, he had special opportunities for arriving at some re-
markable conclusions. There are numerous detached accounts, among which the Descrip-
tion of Vancouver Island, by Captain W. Colquhoun Grant, F.R.G.S., Journal Roy. Geo.
Soc. 1867, vol xxxvii, pp. 268—320, may be specially noticed.

( 445 )

;he British colo-
>rtune8, and the
aralleled. It is,
try which till so
le trading posts

ete, and this is
he singuUr and
llently flurveyed
Pilot ; when that
lis work has had
;he country will
ition which may

. Whymper, which
," by Lord Milton
ly condition of the
iwMacfie,F.R.G.S.,
, Macdonald, E.G.,
,ttray, M.D., 1862 ;
1 ; may be consulted
Life," are very in-
ills at Albemi, in
rriving at some re-
which the Descrip-
Joumal Roy. Geo.

CHAPTER VIII.

COAST OP ALASKA, FROM PORTLAND CANAL TO THE
KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO.

The whole of the north-western Coast of America, from the Portland Canaf
to the interaection of the 141" meridian with the arctic coast, now belongs to
the United States. The length of this coast has been estimated at 11,270
miles. From the Portland Canal to Mount St. Elias, the highest peak on
the continent, the boundary between this territory and British Columbia is
fixed at a distance of 30 miles from the coast, and from Mount St. Elias the
division is the meridianal line carried northward. The area of this territory
on the mainland is estimated by the United States' Coast Survey officers at
549, .500 square statute miles, of the Aleutian Islands included in the territory
5,630 square miles, and of the other islands 22,260 square miles, together
forming a total of 577,390 square statute miles.

As it is well known, this extensive but comparatively useless region was
purchased of the Russian Government by the United States, for the sum of
7,200,000 dollars, in coin, the treaty for the transfer being signed on May
28th, 1867. The sum of 200,000 dollars was added to the amount, for the
purpose of extinguishing the claims of the Russian-American Fur Company,
whose head quarters were at Sitka, and of an ice-company, established in
Kodiac, who had special privileges conceded to them.

The Russian-American Company was established imder charter from the
Emperor Paul, July 8th, 1799 ; and the extensive territory in question was
granted to them to occupy and bring imder the dominion of Russia. The
Russian Company and the Hudson'o Lay Company were thus brought into
collision, and the latter experienced considerable loss in their endeavours to
prevent this extension of Russian power. But in justice to Russia it must
be said that no country had a better claim to the territory ; for as early as
1741, Vitus Behring (a Dane in the employment of Russia), and his com-
panion Ts. rnkofiP, had touched on the continent in the lat of 69° and 56°

j »' . > .Mi ' | i ji » .Vj«iiM^^iu.;^!^j^j),i i tj«iuj^ y fi^uL|Wji i ifi i ._.»i iii-Tr.?rt^^

446

COAST OF ALASKA.

reHpectivoly ; tlio former sooing much of tlio intci-voning rountrios, too, on liiR
return ; and by 1763 many otlior adventurers hiid penetrated eaHtward as far
as Kodiak — and it must be romenibercHl that no other nation elairas to have;
penetrated further North than lat. 53°. In addition to tliis, Ilussia had as
gradually improved her knowledge \ y possession as these discoveries ad-
vanced, and this, too, not from any jealousy of other powers interfering, as
was the ease between Spain, England, and France, to the South. Thus the
settlement at Kodiak was formed four years before our countryman Meares
purchased, or said ho did so, his tract of land in Nootka Sound, and Sitka
was founded ton or twelve years before Astoria was.

Notwithstanding this, the Hudson's Bay Company expended considerable
sums in the establisliment of trading posts on the large liivor Stikino in lat.
56° 20'. The Russians resented by force this procedure of the company, al-
though England claimed the privilege of navigating the rivers flowing from
the interior of the continent to the Paciiic, across the lino of boundary esta-
blished imder the treaty of 1825. The British Government reipiired redress
for this infraction of the treaty ; and after negotiation between the two go-
vernments and the two chartered companies, it was agreed, in 1839, that
from the 1st June, 1840, the Hiidson's Bay Company should enjoy for ti'n
years the exclusive use of the continent assigned to Russia bv Mr. Canning
in 1825, and extending from 54° 40' N. to Cape Spenser, near 58° W., in
consideration of the annual payment of 2,000 otter skins to the Russian-
American Company. The boundary between the Russian and English pos-
sessions was fixed by the convention agreed to by the respective powers,
February 28th, 1825. The charter of the Russian-American Company,
granted in 1799, was renewed in 1839, when they had tliirty-six hunting and
fishing establishments.

Sitka, or New Archangel, founded in 1805 was tLeir chief post. Subor-
dinate to it there is a smaller establishment of a similar kind at Alaska,
which supplies one post in Bristol Bay, and throe posts in Cook Inlet, all
connected with minor stations in the interior. Another station in Norton
Sound has its own inland dependencies. The whole of the territory was di-
vided into six agencies, each controlled by the governor-general. The in-
habitants of the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and thoso of the large island
of Kodiak, were regarded as the immediate uubjects of the Russiam Com-
pany, in whoso service every man between 18 and 60 may be required to
pass at least three years. The natives of the country adjacent to Cook
Inlet and Prince William Sound also paid a tax to the company, in furs
and skins. The other aborigines in the Russian territory were not allowed
to trade with any people but those of the Russian Company.

In 1836 tho nmnber of Russians in the territory of the company was 730 ;
of native subjects, 1,442 Creoles and about 11,000 aborigines of tho Kurile,
Aleutian, and Kodiak Islands.

COAST OF ALASKA.

447

ios, too, on his
'iiHtwurd as fur
•lairas to havo
Russia had as
liscovones ad-
intorforing, as
th. Thus tho
ryuian Mcaros
nd, and Sitlta

d considerable
Stikiuo in lat.
) company, al-
3 flowing from
boundary osta-
u^uirod rcdrt'ss
1 the two go-
in 1839, that
1 enjoy for ton
Mr. Canning
XT 58° W., in
the Eussian-
I English pos-
ectivu powers,
can Company,
Lx hunting and

post. Sul)or-
nd at Alaska,
jook Inlot, all
ion in Norton
•ritory was di-
jral. The in-
e large island
Eussiam Com-
be required to
jacent to Cook
rapany, in furs
ore not allowed

ipany was 730 ;
1 of tho Kurilo,

Tho political trouhlosin which Eussia was involved a few years since, and
the probabl(> unproiitablo nature of this, their distant possession, led tho way
to the quiet transfer of this immense region.* Under its now masters some
of its resources will most probably bo further developed, but tho real value
of tho territory was tho subject of much remark and controversy at the time
of the pun.'liaso. So little was really kno\\'n of Wal-russia that most vaguo
statements were made respecting it. And as the now regime is of such re-
cent establishment but little can be said here of the social condition of its
inhabitants, or of its value to mankind in general.

The one prominent feature which is of most interest in this work is the
peculiarity of its climate. In tho first edition of this work (18.50) tho great
stream which, liko another Atlantic Gulf Stream, passes swiftly along tho
Japanese Archipelago, was traced for tho first time, stop by stop, up to these
shores, and the circulatory system of tho North Pacific was shown to bo ana-
logous to that of tho other oceans. Unlike tho North Atlantic, the whole of
this eastward drift is carried on to tho American coast ^^^as explained in the
special Chapter hereafter), ono portion along the Aleutian Islands, the other
towards Vancouver Island and California. Tho insignificant portion, which
passes through Behring Straits, does not affect tho great question. This
immense E.N.E. drift brings to tho shores of Alaska an enormous quantity
of water that is warmer than is duo to the latitude. The one great result of
this is tho wonderful development of animal life, which is the distinguisliing
feature of tho ocean washing it. If is the greatest Jishery in the world. Tho
accumulated development of ocean-life seems to be drifted on to tho coast
and into its intricate fiords, as is the case, but in a minor degree, with the
Atlantic and the great fishing banks of the Loffoten Islands and the Coast of
Norway.

The result of this imboundod supply of ocean-food is that the rivers and
fiords teem with salmon to such an extent, that the quantity seems to bo
incredible, were it not for the universal testimony of all who come here. In
the open sea, cod, halibut, and an infinite variety of fish, are to be caught
in unbounded quantities. Upon these fish and mollusca, the sea otter by
land, and the whalo in the sea exist, and are, at present, the chief objects
of profit.

Tho climate of the re;»ion, too, is subject entirely to this ocean influence.
The prevalent 8. W. winds, blowing over such a wide area of warmer ocean,
brings to tho land, and especially near the sea, a vast accumulation of

* Tho history of tho negotiation, and tho stops which led to it, are exhaustirely relnted
in a " spee'-h," by the Hon. Charles Sumner, before Congress, Washington, 1867. This is
comprised in a closely printed pamphlet, of 96 columns ! and gives a resume of the whole
subject as far as was then known.

■jPTy!iiv."'.".'r"n'; ' .

■ y « w, a »g ->| . i "._" i " ' i -i -i" . !-■ ^ ■ j **'

4.|8 (10 AST OF ALASKA

luiUGOus vapour, wliich, while it ameliorates the climate, and by its humidity
causes vegetation to be of most gigantic growth, makes the climate of
Alaska to be so moist, that cultivation would seem to be hopeless. The fol-
lowing summary of fourteen yearn observations at the Imperial Observatory
at Sitka will plainly show this relation of temperature and rainfall.

Temp. Fahr

Spring (March— May) *1°3

Summer (Jun«--Augu8t) 6*°-3

Autumn (September— llJovember) 44°.2

Winter (December— February) 31 ".9

Mean

42».9 Total

83.1

The greatest rainfaU was 96 inches in 1850; least 58.6 inches in 1861.
The yearly average of days upon which rain, snow, and hail feU, or on
which fog prevailed, for fourteen years, was two hundred and forty -jive. These
residts are from hourly observations.

At Ounalaska, according to Bishop BenjaminofT, the mean spring tem-
perature was 33°.9, summer 49°.6, autumn 37°.5, winter 30M, mean for the
year 37°.8, or 5°.l below that of Sitka.

The harbour of Sitka and the adjacent harbours never freeze, and the
land ice is unfit for the Californian market, which is supplied from Kodiak.
Here the ice forms from 15 to 25 inches each year, so that it is not thicker
than that of Boston, U.S., although it is 900 geographical mUes further
North ! a wonderful evidence of ocean climate. Of the whaling grounds we
wiU briefly speak in the next Chapter.* Of its forests, its coral fields and
gold regions, we need not say anything— all these matters ai j yet in their

infancy.

The population of the territoiy, as reported by the miUtary commander to
be, 2,000 whites and 60,000 half breeds and Indians ; but this latter estimate
must'be very crude Sitka is the port of entry. The miUtary force (1868)
consisted of infantry and artillery, sufficient to garrison six military posts.

The laws of the United States relating to customs, commerce, and naviga-
tion, and the establishment of a coUection district at Alaska, were extended
to the territory by the Act No. 125 of the Second Session of the 40th Con-
gress, passed July 27th, 1868. By the same Act the killing of fur-bearing
animals is prohibited, except under regulations prescribed by the Secretary

• When the representatires of the Federal Government went to Sitka to receive the
transfer of the territory, a body of scientific men accompanied them, and the result of some
of their investigations, as given by Professor Davidson, is given in the proceedings of the
California Academy of Natural Sciences, San Francisco, 1867.

THE KOLOSrilENSK AR(^niPETAGO— TONGA;^'^.

II!)

ly its humidity
the climate ol"
loss. The fol-
il Observatory
infaU.

1. Inches.

14.0

16,4

30.8

22.9

83.1

nohes in 1861.
lail fell, or on
'orty-Jive. These

an spring tem-
, mean for the

freeze, and the
)d from Kodiak.
; is not thicker
il miles further
[ing grounds we
coral fields and
11 J yet in their

y commander to
is latter estimate
ary force (1868)
nilitary posts,
rce, and naviga-
, were extended
fthe 40th Con-
r of fur-bearing
ly the Secretary

Sitka to receive the

d the result of some

proceedings of the

of the U.S. Trmisury. By ordor of (Joncrnl Iliillcck, An^;. i;?, ISdS, tlio
iiiilitai'v dintrict is nttacliod to Ciilifnvnia.

Tlio character of the country, and its trado, &c., will bo pafliorod fmrn tho
previous remarks and tlio subsequent doscrijitions. Thosn arc not nlwavH
perfect. A portion of tho interior sounds wcro o\p|f)rcd and survi'Vfd l)y
Vancouver, doubtless with his usual nc<'iiracy. )»ut ot'cmirso this occiirrcd ]k>-
fore it was colonized by the Rus.sian Ponipany. A IJussian <liart was ])ub-
lished in 18");5, whidi gavo many additional details, especially of tlio westei'u
face of the Sitka Ar(liipi'Ia>,'(), wliidi was ro-surv(>yod by tlioni.

The KOLOSCHENSK ARCHIPELAGO of tln.'L'us,sians. is the ext..nsivo
group of islands which lie botwocii tlio oiitraiico of t)ic i'ortland Canal, tlio
boundary of tho Territory, and tho northern part of the Sitka Islands. Its
main features were well delineated by Vancouver's survey in 17!)2, but in
many parts, especially of that whieh lias become tlio princiiial part, tlie
Sitka Group, tho cur.sory examination lie made is somewhat dolective. 'J"ho
Russian officers have made us better acqiuiintod with it, and the K'ing
George III. Archipelago of our illustrious navigator is now separated irto
four or more largo islands. The Russian designation is derived fnmi the
Indian tribes who inhabit them. These Koloschians, or Kalo.shes, have been
known in British Columbia as Stikines, and they speak tlie same laii^ruage,
or at least a dialect of it, as the natives of Vancouver Island and tho adjacent
continent. Their number is ossumed as from 12.000 to l.),000, ami they are
separated into several families or tril>os. Although very much has been
done by the Russians in bringing them into a better condition than tho
primitive savages they were, they must not be trusted.

The PORTLAND CANAL, forming the boundary, has been described
before, pages 434— 43o. Cajie Fox forms the N.W point of the approaches
to it.

TONOASS, the southernmost of the new mihtary posts established by the
United States on their new territory, is on a small island, one of tho Wales
Island group, M'hich form the North side of tho entrance to the Portland
Canal, at 10 miles E. by N. from Capo Fox, in about lat. 54° 42' N., Ion"-.
130° 29' W., and opposite to Fort Simpson, which is distant only 4 or .5
miles to the S.E. Tho fort, which is garrisoned by one company, is of the
usual description, and the primeval forest has had to be cleared for the pur-
pose of forming the post. Fish, as everywhere besides, is most abundant.
The Tongass Indians, a small tribe of about 500 people, inhabited these
islands.

A rook, marked on the chart as the Pointers, Ues in the entrance of tho
Portland Inlet, at 3 miles West from the South point of Birnie Island, at
the entrance to Port Simpson.

From Cape Fox the coast takes a rounding direction N.W. by W. 4 miles,
North Pacific. 2 a

\.^^:v , "r * i '^jj y' .v^^wf-W !?' ; ! iy:w. TVffltJ^"ii.

■--5kjtA» ' !wtj ag^'l w^-* ' y^Hg * ^ ' .^wv>l.y '* ^ * ;.L ^y?*t^

450

COAST OF AlASKA.

uudthonN.by W. jW.n-ar7 luilon fuvtlu.v. to a proj-.-tinK punt caUoJ

^'l-tl. of Foggy CaiK, is a lavgo Lay tllLd with a labyr.nth of -a hsl.u.K
rockB, and shoals, tho north-^v..stonm^ost and Uivg-st 1 .on.g ^ . hy \N • . N^
noarly a h-aguo distant. Cnpo Fox on tho East, and Capo NorthumlHah ul
,nthoW..t,l...anug K. hy «• "-ul W. by N. r. loag,u.H apart, onu ho
BOutla.ru outrauoo to tho Canal do E.villa Gigodo of Caanxano, heroafter

uoticod. . , . ,1 J.

Four nnh>« to tho northward of tlu- island ahovo mont.onod .s th. ..ntran.v
to tho Il.ra .h Qx'ulra. which is ahnost rendered inaccossihlo by islets and
rocks. The inlet first take.s a dire,.tion of N.E. i E., to a point 7 nules with.n
tho ontrnneo. whene., tho shores boeomo less elevated, and tho inlettakes a
S S E. direction for 5 miles, and then N.N.E. \ E, for n leagues to its head,
in hit .-iS" 9, a small border of hn,- land, through which flow two rmilots
The sides of this canal are nearly straight, firm, and compact, composed of
high steep, rocky .litis, covered with wood. Near the entrance, m tho
Eevilla Oigedo Canal, is an islet ealled by Vnncc.ver Slate Met, a im,d:gious
xnass of this stono differing from any other about here. N 5 W. 4 miles
from this is Point S./hs, and N.W. i W. r, nules, is Point Alava, between
which points is the entrance to Behm Canal.

BEHM CANAL, so named after Major Behm. is one of those extensive
and singular arms which abound on this forbidding and inhospitable coast.
1* runs northward for a5 miles, then westwardly and southwardly, encircling
the large island of KeviUa Gigedo, and this is separated on the S.W. by tho
strait of the same name from Gravina Island.

From Point Sykes, the S.E. point of tho entrance, the South shore nins
N E ' N 10 miles to Point Kehon, tho inlet being from 2 to 4 nules wide.
E-istward of Toint Nelson an inlet takes an East and N.E. direction for 10
nules, terminating in the usual manner. Tho siu-rounding country consists
of a huge mass of steep, barren, rocky mountains, destitute of soil, the
summits covered with perpetual snow. The shores are nearly perpendicular
cliffs rising from tho water's edge. The N.E. point of this inlet is Pomt
TroUope 45 miles from Point Nelson. Northward of Point TroUopo are two
long nalrow islands on tho East side, forming a narrow channel 7 miles
Ions inside of them. Off the N.W. point of the northernmost of these
bearing N N.W. nearly a league distant, is a very remarkable rock, named
bv Vancouver tho New Eddydone, fi'om its resemblance to the celebrated
lighthouse and rock. Its circumference at its base is about 50 yards, stand-
ing perpendicularly on a surface of fine dark-coloured sand. Its surface is mi-
even ami its diameter regularly decreases to a few feet at its apex. Its
height was found to be above 230 feet, lat. 56" 29'. .

On the East shore of the canal, a league above the New Eddystone, is an
unimportant arm, 2 leagues in depth. The coast beyond this is straight and

I'ORT 8TKWART.

»;•)!

iiif? point calloJ

of Hiniill inlniKlH,
N. l,y W. i W.
Nortliuiubiirliind
apart, fonu tho
iiuiiuo, lioroafter

'd is till' (>ntramt>
)1(.) by islt'tH ami
int 7 miles within
the iult't takes a
[ifj^ucH to its head,
low two rivxdots.
lact, eomposod of
entrance, in tho
Met, a prodigious
N, « W. 4 milort
it Alava, betwoou

if those oxtensivo
ahospitahlo coast,
wardly, oncireliiig
u tho S.W. by tho

South shore runs
! to 4 miles wide.
1. direction for 10
g country consists
stitute of soil, the
larly perpendicidar
this inlet is Point
nt TroUope are two
w channel 7 miles
bernmost of these,
rkable rock, named
) to the celebrated
Jilt 50 yards, stand-
d. Its surface is im-
it at its apex. Its

Bw Eddystone, is an
this is straight and

compact, trending N. i W. milt-n to fValhr Core, nn inlot extending 2
leagues E.N.E.. Tho main inh<t extends in a N.W. by N. direction from
Walker Cove. Tlio water is of a very light colour, not very Halt, and tho
interior countrj', on tlio Island of Revilla (iigodo, rises into rugged mountains,
little inferior in licight to tlioso on tho eastern side. rroco(Hliiig northward,
the canal takes a more westerly direction to Fitzijihhun I'oinf on tlie East
side, in lat. 56° 6(i' ; and the opposite point on tlio island is called roiiif

irhiivij.

Burrough Bay extends N.E. from Point Kitzgibbou about 2 leagues, where
it is terminated by low land, through wliich three or four small rivulets ap-
pear to flow over a bank of mud stretching from the head of tlie arm, and
reaching from side to side, on wliich was lodged a (quantity of drift wood.
When Vancouver was here, August 11th, 179:!, he found tho water perfectly
fresh, and the whole surface of tho bay strewed over with salmon, either
deader in tho last stages of existence. They were all small, of one sort,
and called by him hunchbacked salmon, from a sort of oxcrescence rising
along the backs of tho male fish. In all parts of the inlet, particularly in
tlie arms, and in every run of fresh water, vast numbers of these fish were
seen, but all in a sickly condition. If any just conclusion could be drawn
from the immense numbers found dead, not only in the water, but lodged on
the shores below high water mark, it would seem that their death takes
place immediately after spawning, for the purpose of which they ascend these

inlets.

From the mouth of Burrough Bay, the main inlet takes an irregular S.W.
J W. direction, to a point on the North shore, 4 miles from Point Wiialey,
named Point Leen. ]Jeyond Point Lees the North shore of the principal
chanubl is formed by Bell Island, which is about 2 leagues long in a N.E.
and S.W. direction.

The point on the South shore, beyond the West point of Bell Island, is in
lat. 55° 50', long. 130° 41' (Vancouver, vol. ii, p. 357) ; and here the channol
turns sharp to the South, and widens in that direction. On the opposite side
of the canal is an inlet extending in a N.W. i W. direction, for about 4
miles. South of this inlet is a large bay, terminating in a sandy beach
nearly all round. The interior country is not very high, particularly west-
ward, where a low wooded country extends as far aa the eye can reach.

Port Stewart, named after one of the mates of Vancouver's ship, is
to the southward of this. Its South point of entrance is in lat. 55° 38' 15"
N., long. 131° 47' W. ; variation, 28^ 30' E. (1793). Here Vancouver re-
mained with his vessel in August and September, 1793. He found it a small
but convenient bay, secured by several islets before it, from the wind in
all directions.

It is formed, as before stated, by a bay in the land, having several islets
and rocks lying before it ; within those, from the South point of its entrance,

2o2

•iS^S!^;;8attBe-£S'HW««^.T

g'»'.-ie*Si&SBW(»l»t=j;'.w«K -^-

i . jVm '-l'*" / ' ^ l ^. U f - -^".'^-JV-i.-

«-.- - '

•l.'>2

(•(.(AST or ALASKA.

it takoH a rniiroo of N.N. W. .i W., about Imlf ii loftj^uo in lonp:tli iind tliron-
quartcrs of n mllo in breadth. In this Npaco it atlbnlH ^'ood and si'ouid
anchomt^o, from 1 to 18 fathoms water, good liolding jrround. Towards its
head arc two vory Hnug covim or baHius, ono of whicii is a continuation of tho
port, tho other formed by an indent in tho hind. Tlio best pasHago into Tort
Stewart is between the southernmost islo and tho main land ; this is porfoctly
free from any obstruction, witli eoundings from 4 fathoms at the side to 1 1
fathoms in tho middle.

Tho oastom shore of tho canal, southward of tho point where it nHsumos a
southerly direction, is much broken and intersected with arms ; arid opposite
to I'ort ytewort is a covo near which Vancouver was attacked by Indians,
in which two of his men wore severely wounded ; houco ho called it Traitor's
('urr, and a point to tho South on which ho landed, iu lat. H^)" ;J7', £mipi'
Point.

Cape Caamano is tho South point of tho peninsula, dividing tho arm
from Claronco Strait. It is in lat. 5.')^ 2'J', long, lar 54'. It was so called
after tho Spanish commander who first delineated (tiiough imporfoetly) these
shores.

On tho oi^jiosito side of tho channel, the westernmost point of tho island
of Eevilla (Hgedo, is called Point Hirjyins, after tho then president of Chile,
Senr. Higgins do Vallonar, and this latter name is applied to the North
point of tho Island Gravina, 8. 2 W. 2 miles from Point Iliggins. From
Point Viillenar lies a ledge of rocks, parts of which are only visible at low
tide. Bratun Island lies to the northward of Point Iliggins, against tho
eastern coast.

The CANAl "^EVILLA OIGEDO, of SoHor Caamano, jeparates, as before
stated, tho Island, "'nr Islands, of Gravina from the island of its name

and the main land. It riu. ' nth-westward from between Po-^'+s Iliggins
and Vallenar to between Foggy and Northumberland Capes, described pre-
viously. A sunken rock is marked on tho eastern side of its southern entrance.
It was not explored by Vancouver.

DUKE of CLARENCE STRAIT separates the Prince of Wales Archipe-
lago on the West from tho islands svfi ''avo been describing on the South, and
from the Duke of York and olhcr isluiids northward, and is probably the
opening distinguished in Caairaa- V chart as the " Estrecho del Almiranto
Fuentes, y Entrada de Nostra Seur. del Carmin."

Cape Northumberland is the southernmost point of tho Gravina Islands.
Off Cape Northumberland are several clusters of rocks, the bearings of the
principal of ./hich, from a tolerably high round island lying South from tho
cape, are as follow: the outermost to the N.W., N.W. by W., 3^ miles;
the south-westernmost, W.S.W. 4 J miles ; the southernmost, which are the
most distant. South, 6^ miles ; and the south-easternmost, S.E. ^ E. 6 miles
distant ; within some of these the intermediate spaces are occupied by an

;th and tliron-
)(l iiiid 8('o\ir(i
Towards it«
nimtion of tho
sajfo into Port
m in porfiictly
the (tide to 1 1

itnssumoH a
; and opitosito

1 by Indians,
lod it Traitor's
6" 37', £w(tpi'

ding tho arm
was so called

lorfoutly) tho8o

of tho island
dout of Chile,

to the North
iggins. From
visible at low
s, against thu

rates, as before
nd of its name
'piy+q Higgina
described pro-
them entrance.

t'^ales Archipo-
the South, and
J probably the
del Almiranto

ravina Islands,
loarings of the
South from tho
W., 3i miles;
which are the
E. i E. 6 miles
)ccupied by an

POINTS PEKCY AND DAVISON. AM

immenno number of ro. ks and break. ih. Tho southernmost is a round lump
of biuTon rock, always above water. On tKo vhart two other roofs aro
marked, the positions of which aro doubtful Thf one in called tho l)n-iV»
Ilidfli; and bears 13 miles South of Capo Northumberland; tho other is 15
miles to S.S.W. of tho .name capo.

Point I'n;,, \\m N.W. by W. ■/ W. 9 miles from Capo Northumberland.
It is tho western extremity of a long, narrow cluster of low islands, t aoml-
ing about 5 miles in an iil.N.E. direction, nearly uniting to tiio eastern
shore, which is much broken North and South of them. Hotween this point
and Capo Nortliumborland are several clusters of dangerous rocks, lying in
all directions, a considerable distanco fnnu sliore.

Point Darimii bears N. .J E. l miles from Point Percy, and is in lat. 55'' Oi'.
The coast tlion runs North towards an opening about 2 miles wide, appear-
ing to divide (Iravina Island. In it aro innumerable rocks and rocky
islets. Northward of this tho shores trend N.N.W. 5 miles, and then about
N. by W. r, leagues to Point Vallonar. Tho shores of the Oraviua Islands
are of moderate height, and covered with wood.

The southern entrance to tho Duke of Clarence Strait lies, as before stated,
between Capo Northumbe.land on tho East, and di/ie (le Chmna on tho
West. This latter cape is tho S.W. point of tho Prince of Wales Archi-
polat;'), and bears W.S.W. from tho former, 8 or 9 leagues olf, lat. 54" 43',
long. 13r50'.

The first considerable opening on the western shore of tho strait. North
of Capo do Chacon, is iUoira Sound. It takes a south-westerly direction.
From this sound tho western shore takes a direction nearly North, and
forms some 1- vs ; the largest of these, situated in lat. 55° 8', has, in and
before it, se- al smaller islets ; tho outermost is by far the largest ; and as
it in many points of view resembled a wedge, it was called JFrr/ffe Inland; off
its South point lies a ledge of dangerous rocks. Nine miles North of "Wedge
Island is a projecting point, in lat. 55'^ 16 J', and to the West of this is Choi-
mondt'li'!/ Sound, which extends to the southward, divided into several branches.
A small island lies to tho N.W. of the entrance. Point Grindnll bears from
Capo Caamano S.W. by W. 4 or 5 miles distant, with some rocks and
breakers extending about a mile from it.

On the eastern side of the entrance to Cholmondeley Sound is, or was, a
Eussian settlement, Chasintzejf.

From Cape Caamano to Point Le Mesurier the coast first bears N.W. by
W. near 2 leagues, and then N.N.W. Point Le Mesurier projects from tlio
main land to the westward, and has some islets and rocks extending about a
mile from it. Opposite to Point Le Mesurier is Point Ondow, N.N.W. £ W.
5i miles distant, and between these points is the entrance of an inlet, nearly
as extensive as the one it enters, named Prince Ernest Sound (after the Duke
of Cumberland, afterwards King ox Hanover). Point Onslow is the

3a!^SB««!!aimEr«3?o:i'rr«Wi3S«eiw«rrr;w;.sa^

tf>rf

4.'iJ

COAST OF ALASKA.

South extreme of the island or islands forming the Duke of York Archi-
pelago.

Tlie continental shore from Point Le Mesurier trends N.N.E. J E. for
about 4 loagues, indented with bays. The opposite shores then incline more
to the eastward from this point ; and to the northward of it is the South
point of an island extending N.N. W. J W. 5 miles ; but it allows a tolerably
good channel inside it. N. by W. J W. from the bay within the island, 2J
leagues, brings you to Point Wardc, in lat. 56^ 9'. The wescern shore is
irregi'.lar in its direction, and much broken ; opposite the island it is 6 miles
across. From Point Warde the aoast takes a sharp turn N.E. by E. J E. 4
miles, to a point where the channel divides into two branches ; the eastern-
most extends eastward about 3 leagues, terminating in the usual way, and
named lirarljield Canal. The main branch extends in a N.N.W. direction, 3
leagues to a point in lat. 56° 20'. Here it again divides into two branches ;
the main channel, before which lie several rocks and small i«let8, is not more
than a quaiter of a mile wide, extending irregularly to the N.W. and S.W.,
forming a passage about a league long to Point Madan, stretching to the
N.N.W. ij W. In this direction it proceeds about 16 miles to a very con-
spicuous point, in lat. 66° 34', named Point lUghfield, where the channel again
rtppears to divide into two branches to the N.N.W. and W. It is the
northernmost point of Wrangel Island.

Etoline Harbour is on the western side of the North end of Wrangel
Island, 3 miles South of Highfield Point, lat. 56'' 31' N., long. 132= 20' W.

WRANGEL, one of the six military posts of the United States, is pleasantly
Hituated in the bight of Etoline Ilarbour. The scenery around is very fine.
The buildings erected are most substantial, and there is a large Indian vil-
lage in the immediate vicinity .

The apparent opening to the northward of Point Highfield is entirely
closed by a shoal extending across it from Point Rothmij on the East or con-
tinental short, and Point Blaquiere on the opposite side, on the edge of which
are only 6 and 9 feet water. To the South of this shoal, and in its immefliate
vicinity, are four small islands and two or three islets; one of the former
upon the shoal, and the others at the distance of 1^ league from Point High-
field, extend to the West and S.W. of it. This shoal is veiy steep-to, and,
by its connection with the adjoining land, it may be said to make the latter
form a portion of the continent.

The RIVER STIKINE, or Stachine, or PelUj Jlirer, enters this part of
tho inland navigation, and has formed the shoal above mentioned, which
thus closes its entrance, but it is probable that local enterprise and know-
ledge will show a useful channel into it. When over the bar it can be
ascended for more than 30 miles by a steamer.

Fort Stikine, near tho mouth of the river, was originally founded by the
Russian- Americiin Company, and in 1842 was transferred to the Hudson's

Duko of York Arcbi-

rends N.N.E. J E. for
shores then incline more
ard of it is the South
but it allows a tolerably
T within the island, 2.}
The western shore is
I the island it is 6 miles
turn N.E. by E. i E. 4
branches ; the eaetern-
n tho usual way, and
aN.N.W. direction, 3
ides into two branches ;
small islets, is not more
to the N.W. and S.W.,
idan, stretching to tho
) miles to a veiy con-
rhere the channel again
^ and W. It is the

Forth end of Wrangel
>f., long. 132=20' W.
ted States, is pleasantly
ry around is very fine,
is a large Indian vil-

; Highfield is entirely
«aij on the East or con-
h on the edge of which
I, and in its immediate
>ts; one of the former
igue from Point High-
is veiy steep-to, and,
said to make the latter

'r, enters this part of
)Te mentioned, which
enterprise and know-
er the bar it can bo

■inally founded by the
rred to the Hudson's

THE RIVER STIKINE

4o;»

Bay Company, on a lease of 1l -ears. Tli<><;staLliHlimont, of wliich tlio sitohad
not boon well sc^lected, was situatod on a peninsula baroly largo enongli for
the necessary buildings ; whilo the tide, by overilowing tho isthmus at higli
water, rendered any artificial extension of the premises almost impractieablo ;
and the slime that was periodically deposited by tho receding sea was aided by
the putridity and filth of tlio native villages in tlio neighbourhcjoil in oppressing
the atmospliore with a most nauseous perfume. Tlie harbour, nioroovor, was
so narrow, tliat a vessel of 100 tons, insteadof swinging at anchor, was under
tlie necessity of mooring stem and stern ; and tlio supply of frtv-ih water was
broughl by a wooden aqueduct, which the savages might at any time destroy,
from a stream about 200 yards distant.

The North shora of Iho principal arm leading from tho mouth of tho SK-
kine River now takes a direction of S.W. } S. for 14 miles to Point IFowe.
The shores are indented with small bays, with some small islets ; the oppo-
site, or South shore, is about a league distant ; and, to tho westward of Point
Crfiiff, lying from Point Hood S.E. by E. 2 leagues, the shore appears firm and
compact ; to the E. of it, it is much broken and divided. From Point Howo the
shore rounds in a westerly direction to Point Alexander. This point is the
easternmost of the entrance to Duncon Canal, wliich stretclies irregularly
North and N.\V. to its terminaticm in a shallow bay, bounded to the North
by a low sandy flat, in lat. 50" 58'. Point JfifcJu'll forms the S.W. point of
the canal, and is opposite the opening of the southern branch of the Duke of
Clarence Strait, tho description of which wo will resume from the point where
Prince Ernest Sound diverges from it.

I'oint Onslow, as before mentioned, is the North point of tho entrance of
Prince Ernest Sound ; and, from this to Point Stanhope, tho next projection
on the eastern shore of tho channel, the distance is 15 miles. The coast then
extends N. f W., about 10 miles, to Point Jfarri>n/fon. Three miles and a
half southward of Point Harrington is a small island, on tho North side of
which is tolerable anchorage, close unler the shores of Etoline Island, in
Steamer Baij.

Prt;'«/! iVwA/V^, the South point of Zarembo Island, is in lat. 50" 15', and
bears from Point Harrington N.W. about 2 leagues, tho interval forming the
opening to Stachinski Inlet bearing to the N.E., towards tho entrance of the
Stachine or Stikino River. Off 1 oint Harrington, and nearly in mid-chan-
nel, is a cluster of low rocks ; and also off Point Nesbitt, extending south-
ward from the point, is a ledge. These seem very dangerous, as most of
them are only visible at low watev.

Z/«.v//// Island, which lies in the channel to tho northward of Point Nes-
bitt, is about 2 miles long, having from its shores, on both sides, some de-
tached rocks, but admitting between it and tho eastern shore a navigable
channel, extending northward to between Point Maenamara on the East, and
Point Colpoi/K on the West ; this bears W'lst, 1 J lougue from the former.

ar-asr:;i5^: gi*j-'^'«*'^*^' '«'>-' *' ^ ' -- '•^''■'

■15(5

COAST UF ALASKA.

Hero tlio channel enters from the north-eustward, as before describfd, and
bears to the westward and ti.S.W. to the ocean. Toint Mitcholl, the S.W.
point of Kuprianoff Island, ou the S.W. side of tho entrance to Duncan
Canal, is tho point on the Nortli shore opposite to Point Colpoys, and is «
miles distant. The northern shore of tills branch of tho strait extends a
little to tho southward of West to I'oint JJtinir, a distance of IS miles. In
that space are innumerable rocks ; and nearly midway between tlie two
points there is a largo bay.

The southern shore, which, forms tho North coast of the Trinco of Wales
Archipelayo, and tho distance between I'oint C!oipoys and Toint Baker, il^
I'last and West oxtreme, is 17 miles. Just to tho south-westward of I'oint
Baker is an excellent harbour, I'ort I'rotection, which was a liaven which
afl'ordod Vancouver an asylum when he little expected it, amidst impending
dangers, in September, t79;5.

PORT PROTECTION will bo most readily found by attending to tho fol-
lowing directions. It is situated at the N.W. extremity of the Prince of
Wales Archipolagj; its southern extreme comprises tlio base of a very re-
markable barren peaked mountain, named Mount Calder. This is conspicuous
in many points of view. Point Baker, in lat. oG" 20' ;50', long, l^a" 3;$', on
an islet close to the shore, forms the N.E. point of entrance, from whence t' o
opposite point lies S.S.W. i W. three-quarters of a milo distant ; thochan.i. i
is good, and free to enter, yet thoro is one lurking rock, visible only at Jow
tide, lying in a direction from Point Baker S. by E. i E. 3 cables' lengths
distant ; it is clear all round.

The harbour takes a general direction from its entrance S.E. by S. J 8.
for 2J miles, and its navigable extent is from 5 to 3 cables' lengths in width,
beyond which it terminates in small shallow coves. The depth is rather irre-
gular, from 30 to 50 fathoms. The tides appear to be irregular, but
come from the South, and it is high water 7" 40'" after the moon passes the
meridian.

Points Baker and Barrie form, as before stated, tho western extremes of
the branch of the Duke of Clarence Strait, which trends East and West.
Westward of this tho strait takes a southerly direction to the Pacific, and
tho western shore of tliis portion is formed by the southern end of an island
called Kou hlmd by tho ilussiana, which is singularly intersected by deep
bays and inlets, and the shores of which are bestrewed with innumerable
rocks, with a narrow channel separating it from the main, so full of rocks
uiid dangers that it certainly is not navigable.

The western shore of the strait bears from Point Barrie in a West
direction, but between is Conclusion Island, about 3.^ miles long, N.W.
and S.E. Between Point Baker and Conclusion Island, distant from the
lonuer 4 miles, is a smaller island, low, and about a mile long North
anu Soutli, with a ledge of very dangerous rocks extending from its South

■'ItSi^

■ ?5S?S^f-3S!»^''

CAl'E DECISION.

•IS?

efore dpscribod, and
; Mitcholl, the S.W.

entranco to Duncan
nt Colpoys, und is 8

tho strait extends a
uce of 18 miles. In
ay between tlie two

the Prince of Wales
and Point Hakor, its
li-westward of I'oiut
was a haven which
it, amidst impending

attending to tho fol-
lity of tho Prince of
.0 haso of a very re-
r. This is conspicuous
I) ', long. 1 3;}" 3;$', on
ince, from whonco tJ e
e distant ;thechuniii i
c, visible only at low
E. 3 cables' lengths

ance S.E. by S. i S.
des' lengths in width,

depth js rather irre-
to be irregular, but
the moon passes the

western extremes of
snds East and West.

1 to tho Pacific, and
hern end of on island
r intersected by deep
ed with innumerable
nain, so full of rocks

nt Barrie in a West
i miles long, N.W.
nd, distant from tho
a mile long North
ending from its South

point. From hence the coast takes an irregidar direction about 8. by E.
to a point in lat. 56^ 17', forming the N.E. point of entrance into Port

Ijoauclerc.

Port Beauclerc is of easy access and egress, free from every obstruction
but such as are sulKciently evident to bo avoided. The opposite point of
entrance lies West 2 miles distant; it extends N.W. 4.^ miles, and S.W. 2
miles, from the points of entranco. The surrounding shores are in general
moderately t-levated, and well covered with wood.

I'oinf AmHim lies S.E. by S. \ 13. about a league from tho entrance of
Port Beauclerc. and South of it tho coast forms a bay about a league to the
westward, and thenco it takes a more southerly direction, about 7 miles, to
Point St. Albam, which is a low rocky point, in lat. 56" 7', long. 133° 55'.
Off this portion of tho coast, islets, rocks, and breakers extend about a

league.

Affleck Canal oxtondf to the N. by W. 15 miles, immediately to the
westward of Point St. ./i.n.ans. Its eastern shore has rocks otf it for the first
league and a half, and .hen becomes straight and compact to its termination
in some low land, thr-mgh which flow some streams of fresh water. The
eastern sides of tho canal are mountainous, but not so stoop. The western
side is moderately elevated.

CAPE DECISION, the South extreme of Kou Island, is a very conspicuous
promontory, extending in a South direction into the ocean, in lat. 50' 2',
long. 134-^ 3'. Southward of tho cape are some islands ; the largest, Corom-
lion Mund, is about 7 leagues in circuit. From the N.E. point of this island,
which bears S. by E. 4 miles from Cape Decision, is a range of rocky islets
extending to the North, within half a league from tho main land.

Cape Pole is the promontory on the western shore of the Prince of Wales
Archipelago, which forms, with Cape Decision, the entrance to the Duke of
Clarence Strait. They bear W. by S. i S., and E. by N. i N., 11 miles
iisunder. Off Cape Polo is Warren Island; it is high, and between it and
tho cape many lurking rocks were observed. To the southward of it also
are three clusters of very dangerous rocks, the first lying from its S.W. point
S >.v E. i E. H miles distant; the second. South, 6 miles, and a small
)s!o- >jin^' from them S.E. at half a league distant ; and the third cluster Ues
.tf -h.. o.Ii. point of tho island, which from its N.W. point lies S.E. * E. 4
ni-'^r', 1 >m whence those rocks lie in a direction S.E. by S. i S. about 4 miles
di^.. ... Nearly in mid-channel, between Warren and Coronation Islands,
there v , no bottom at 120 fathoms.

Altl ough the navigation of Clarence Strait may be free from danger, yet
itou^rhtuottobeused without much circumspection, as several rocks are
mrrked on tho Eussian chart.

From Cape Pole the western shore of tho Archipelago trends v€ry irregu-
larJy to tho S.E., and at 6 or 7 miles from the cape is the entrance to Machine

^Mt'sa^vs'-T. .si

458

COAST OF ALA8KA.

titrait, a narrow channel which, running in tho Hanio diroctiou for n orotlinn
15 miles, insulates what was tlionglit to bo the main land of tho chief isfand,
and terminates in Tonock Baij. The outer coast thou trends to tho South for
20 miles to Cape Addinji^ton.

Cape Addington, which appears to bo tho next most remarkable promon-
tory to the South of Cape l*olo, was so named by Vancouver, after tho
Speaker of tho House of Commons. It is very conspicuous, and is in lat
bo- 27', long. 133^ 48'.

Port Buoareli, a very extensive inland sea, lies at tho back of and to tho
southward of Cape Addington. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, tho
two Spanish navigators. They anchored hereon August 16th, 1775, and
named it I'uerto del Baylio Bucareli, in honour of the Mexican viceroy. It
soems also to be tho same as Sea Otter Sound of Meares. It is formed by
several islands. They here took possession, in the name of his Catholic
Majesty, of all the country thoy saw, and all they did not see. The unfortu-
nate La Porouse >> ■^xr'orod it.

Cape San Bartoif 4ie S.W. point of tho entrance of this inland sea,

and is in lat. 5,3° 12^', ; 133^ 3G', aud is the South extremity of a long,
narrow peninsula, extending in a southerly direction, with some islets off it ;
it is probably the Cape Barnett of Meares.

The entrance lies between Cape San Bartolom and tho West coast of
Suemez Island, 3^ miles apart. There is anchorage in a bay on the N.W.
side of Suemoz Island, at 8 miles within the entrance. To the N.E. of this
it opens out into a largo bay, with many islands. On the N.E. side of this
bay is a setUoment, called Kliavalhan, and to the S.E. it loads to Tlevack
Strait, which enters the N.W. part of Cordova Bay.

From Suemez Island the S.W. coast of tho Archipelago extends to the
S.E. for 25 miles to Fort Jiaznn, which is separated into two arms by an
island. Tho anchorage is in the southern arm. Cape Muzon, the S.W.
point of the Archipelago, is 12 miles to the E.S.E., and to the East of this
cape is the entrance to A'aiffan Harbour. To tho eastward of this, at the
South end of the island, is the extensive bay called Port Cordova in the
Spanish charts, and is the Port Meares of that commander.

The Rasa Isle, or the Wolf Rock, lying off the mouth of Port Bucareli, is
one of the most dangerous impediments to navigation on the exterior corst
and from these circumstances it obtained from Vancouver its latter name. It
is a very low, flat, rocky islet, surrounded by rocks and breakers that extend
some distance from it : it lies 14 miles S. 21- E. from Cape St. Bartolom, 12
miles from the nearest point of the contiguous shore, and 3 leagues N. IT
E. from San Carlos Island. It was seen by the Spaniards in 1775, who
called it Easa, or low. By Captain Douglas it was called Forrester Island
in 1786.

San Carlos is a small high island ; its South point is in lat. 54" 48', long.

CHIMSTIAN AN'l> I'l.'lNCK Fh'KDKlMClv iSOlNDS

l.V.i

u for n: ore tlinn
he chief" isfand,
3 tho South for

rkable promon-

ivor, aftor tho

and is in lat.

of and to tho
ad Quadra, tho
6th, 1775, and
xn viceroy. It
t is formed by
)f his Catholic
Tho unfortu-

:his inland sea,
lity of a long,
ue islets off it ;

West coast of
on the N.W.
leN.E. of this
E. side of this
ids to Tlevack

jxtends to the
o arms by an
ton, the S.W.
3 East of this
)f this, at the
Cordova in the

irt Bucareli, is
exterior corst,
itter name. It
rs that extend
Bartolom, 12
lagues N. IT
in 1775, who
rrester Island

54' 48', long.

l.^'i- 82'. Tho channel bctweou it ani tho Wolf Uock appears to bo froo
Irom interruption. It was discovered by Ayala and ( Ju.ulra, in August, 1775,
and by thom named San Carlos Island. It is called Dow/Ian hlitud by Mearos
and others, and Forrester Inland by Vancouver, but its real name must bo that
first applied by tho Spaniards. It is very high, covered with verdure, and
visible IG or 17 leagues off.

Wo now return to the northward.

liotwoou Capo Decision and Capo Ommaney, which latter is in lat. ^A\° 10',
hmg. i;}-!" .'J;5i', and 1*5 miles distant from tho former, is Christian Sound,
and this forms tlio southern entrance to a very extensive inland navigation,
extending in a remarkably straight direction to the N.W. tlirough upwards
of .'1" of latitude, separating a series of largo islands from tho continent of
America. The principal of those are Chatham Strait, leading immediately
from Christian Sound to tho northward ; Prince Frederick Sound, diverging
eastward from it; and Stephens Passage, which branches northward out
of the latter. These principal arms insulate tho Sitka Islands (or King
George the Third Archipelago), Admiralty Island, and numerous subordi-
nate islands, M'hich will be described in due order, commencing with tho
continental shores.

CHRISTIAN SOUND is tho passage between Capo Ommaney and Capo
Decision. It is noticed again hereafter. From Cape Decision the coast
trends N.N.W. J W. 3 leagues, and then N. by W. tho same distance, to tho
North point of Fort Mahmhunj. This is about 2 leagues deep N.E. and then
S.S.E., and has some islets and rocks on it ; notwithstanding which it affords
very excellent shelter in from 17 to 34 and 12 fathoms water, and is conve-
niently situated towards the ocean. Tho North point, called Point Harris or
(/'«;•».«, is rendered very remarkable by its being a projecting point, on which
is a single hill, appearing from many points of view like an island, with an
islet and some rocke extending near a mile to the S.W. of it. Seven miles
further northward is the South point of a large bay full of innumerable
islets and rocks. Its N.W. point of entrance, Point Ellis, is in lat. 5G" 31',
lou". 134^ 15'. Point Sullivan, which is the next point in tho main inlet to

tho northward, is in lat. bd" 38', and East of this, also, is an inlet full of
rocks and islets. From Point Sullivan the shores to the northward are less
rooky, taking a direction of N. J W. 13 miles, to Point Kingsmill, which is
conspicuous.

Point Kingsmill is tho S.W. point of Princo Frederick Sound, the opposite
point of entrance being Point Gardner, the S.W. extreme of Admiralty
Island. This sound extends to tho N.E. and East.

FEINCE FREDERICK SOUND.— From Point Kingsmill to Point Corn-
wallis the bearing and distance are N.E. \ E. 6J miles, the space between
being occupied by two bays, each taking a south-easterly direction. To the
eastward of Point Cornwallis is Kiku Strait, the AVest shore of which trends

460

COAST OF ALASKA.

first E.S.E. 9 miles, and then S.S.E. } E. for 7^ miles further. From this
Port Camden, an inlet about half a league wide, runs in a S.S. \V. direction,
8 miles, to within 2 miles of the head of the inlet N.E. of Point Ellis, pre-
viously mentioned The shores of Port Camden are pretty free from islets
and rocks, but those to the N.W. of it are lined with them, and render the
approaching of it extremely dangerous, and its southern extension is per-
fectly unnavigable for shipping.

The peninsula of Kou Island, which is connected with the more eastern
land by the last-mentioned narrow isthmus, is by no means so high or
mountainous as the land composing the adjacont countries on the opposite
or north-eastern side of the sound, which lu ..o great distance consists of
very lofty, rugged, dreary, barren mountains, covered with ice and snow.

Point Macartneji forms the N.E. point of Kiku Strait. It is a large,
rounding, though not lofty promontory, in which are several small open bays,
find near it several detached rocks. From hence the shore of Kuprianojf
Island trends N. by E. i E. about a league, where the width of the sound is
about 7 miles across in a N.W. direction, to Point Nepean. From this
station N.N.E. i E. 4^ miles distant, lies a small island with patches of
rock, from this point reaching nearly to its shores.

The promontory still takes a rounding direction about E.N.E. 5 milos
further, from 'whence the southern shore of the sound extends E. by S. ^ iS.
22 miles, to the West point of a Pcresonaia Creek, the only opening in the
shore from Point Macartney. The cove extends S.E. by S. about a league,
forming a narrow isthmus, 2 miles across, from the head of Duncan Canal
(p. 455), another striking instance of the extraordinary insular state of this
region.

Point Gardner, as before mentioned, is the S.W. extreme of Admiralty
Island, and forms tue N.W. point of the entrance to Prince Frederick Sound.
Oflf it, in a S.S.E. direction, lie some rocks and a small island, Yasha ; the
former at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, and the latter at that
of 3 miles. The coast hence rounds irregularly to Point Townsend, a distance
of 9 miles ; off the projecting points are some rocks. Six and a half miles
E.N.E. from this is Point Nepean, situated in lat. 57° 10', long. 134° 3.' It
is a high, steep, bluff", rooky point, and off it lies a ledge of rocks about half a
mile. At 3 miles to the North of it on the eastern side is Woewodski Ear-
hour. From this the coast takes a more northerly direction, or N.E. J N.
10 J miles, to Point Pybus ; the coast between is much indented with small
bays, and vast numbers of islets and rocks both above and beneath the
water. It is in general but moderately elevated ; and although it is com-
posed of a rocky substance, produces a very fine forest, chiefly of pine.
Northward of this is a large channel, called Stephens Passage. Prince
Frederick Sound continues to the eastward and south-eastward.

Cape Fanshaw, which is the point of the mainland opposite, and forming

ther. From this
S.S.W. direction,
Point Ellis, pre-
;y free from islets
1, and render the
extension ia por-

the more eastern
leans so high or
IS on the opposite
stance consists of
ice and snow.

It is a large,
1 small open bays,
ore of Kuprianoff
h of the sound is
pean. From this
I with patches of

t E.N.E. 5 milos
mds E. by S. i fS.
ly opening in the
. about a league,
of Duncan Canal
iBular state of this

eme of Admiralty
I Frederick Sound,
sland, Yasha; the
the latter at that
wmend, a distance
c and a half miles
long. 134° 3.' It
rocks about half a
is Woewodski Mar-
ion, or N.E. i N.
lented with small
and beneath the
though it is com-
, chiefly of pine.
Passage. Prince
Fard.
aite, and forming

STEPHENS PASSAGE.

4G1

the angle at which the two channels diverge, is low and projecting, but very
fonspicuouH ; in lat. 57" 11', long. l.'JS" U.jA'. The branch is licro 8 miit's
wide, and its northern shore takes a course E.S.E., Ifi miles, to a low, nar-
row point of land 2j miles long, and half a mile brond, stretching to the
South, called Point Vandeput. Here the breadth of the branch decreases to
3^ miles in a South direction, to a steep bluff point ; from this part the
branch takes a more southerly course. South of Point Vandeput a shoal
extends about a mile, and on its East side a small bay is formed, from
whence the eastern shore trends 8.E. by S. 7 miles to another point, ofl" which
ft shoal extends about three-fourths of a mile. The shore here ia a small
extent of Hat land, lying immediately before the lofty mountains, which rise
abruptly to a great height immediately behind the border. A few miles to the
South of this margin the mountains extended to the water-side, when a part
of Miem presented an uncommonly awful appearance, rising with an in-
ilin iion towards the water to a vast height, loaded with an immense quantity
of ice and snow, and overhanging their base, which seemed insufficient to
boar the ponderous fabric it sustained, and rendored the view of the passage
beneath it horribly magnificent. (Vancouver, vol. iii. pp. 282-3.)

At a short distance to the South of this tha head of the inlet appears
closed by a beach extending all round the head of it. At high water this
becomes a shallow bank, with an island on it, being the delta of the Stikine
EiVer. At high water it is covered, and by moans of this channel, an inland
navigation for canoes and boats is found from the southern extremity of Ad-
miralty Inlet, in lat. 47^^ 3', to the North extremity of Lynn Canal, in lat.
59'' 12', long. 13 j° 37'. The southern end of the shallow portion of Prince
Frederick Sound enters the arm of the Duke of Clarence Strait between
Point Blaquiore and Eothsay, described on page 454.*

STEPHENS PASSAGE, which is over 95 miles in length, opens into
Prince Frederick Sound, between Point Pybus and Cape Fanshaw, which
are 16 milos asunder; but it should be remembered that its north-western
end is rocky, intricate, and very dangerous for shipping in the entrance into
Lynn Canal, as hereafter shown.

N. by E. 6i miles from Cape Fanshaw is Port Houghton. The South point
of the harbour is Point Walpole, near which are some islets and sunken rocks.
Its North point is Point Ifobart, N. by W. a league from the other, and from
which extends a bank of sand, a little distance from the shore, but leaving a
clear passage between it and the islets into the port. It extends E.S.E. 5 or 6
miles, and is bounded by lofty mountains, forming the shores of a snug
harbour, with soundings of 10 to 6 fathoms a considerable distance from the

• PrinoG Frederick Sound was so named by Vancouver after tho late Duke of York,
on -who-io birthday his throe years' survey of this desolate coast was here brought to a
conclusion.

■1(12

flOAST OF ALASKA.

shoro, sand and muddy bottom. From Toint Ilobart to Point Windhnm th.>
bearing and distance am N.N.AV. \ W. 12i miles. Opposite to Point Wind-
ham is Point Hugh, or Admiralty Island, and hero perhaps it may be conni-
dorcd that Stephens Tassago morn properly bogins.

]]oyond Point Tlugh is Point Gtunhiet; bearing S.S.W. I W. 5 miles from
it ; and this latter is N.E. J N. 3 miles from Point Pybus, previously mon-
tioned. Between the two former points in tlie entrance to Scymoi r Canal,
which extends into the island, N.W. by N. 29 miles from Point Hugh to its
head, in lat. 57^ 51'. At its entrance it is from 2 to 3 miles wide, which
gradually increases towards its head to 2 leagues. At its termination is a
small brook of fresh water. The adjacent country is moderately high, and
covered with timber of largo growth, excepting towards Point Hugh, whicli
is a lofty rocky promontory, from whence extends a ledgi' of rocks, on which
the sea breaks with considerable force.

This point forms the South extreme of a long, narrow peninsula, dividing
Seymour Canal from Stephens Passage. The S.W. coast of this passage,
which is here about 5 miles in breadth, is nearly straight, compact, and free
from rocks or other interruptions up to a high round island lying in th«
middle of the channel, in lat. 58° 1', from which the western shore extends
N. by W. 8 miles to Point Ardcn, where the branch divides into three arms,
the principal < directed to the westward.

The eastern shore of the passage, up to this part, is composed of a com-
pact range of stupendous moun tins, chiefly barren, and covered with ico
and snow, but affording some inlets. From Point Windham, on the South,
to Point Astley, 13 miles to the North, the shores are very rocky. The
latter is the South point of a deep bay, about 4 miles wide, named Jlolkham
Bay. From Point Coke, its North point, in a direction S.W. i S. 2^ miles
ai two small rocky islets, nearly in the middle of the branch ; and the
eastern shore trends from it N.W. ^ W. 9 or 10 miles to Point Anmcr, the
South point of Port Snettisham.

Port Snettisham first extends about a league from its entrance in a N.E.
direction, where on each side the shores form an extensive cove, terminated
by a sandy beach, with a fine stream of fresh water. On the N.W. side of
the entrance {Point Sti/leman), which is in lat. 57° 53', long. 133" 49', is a
small cove, on which there is also a run of water, with an islet lying before
it. The shores are high and steep, and produce very few trees.

Taco, formerly an Hudson's Bay Company's establishment, formed in 1841,
in Port Snettisham, is on a little harbour almost land-locked by mountains,
being partially exposed only to the S.E. One of the hills, near the fort,
terminates in the form of a canoe, which serves as a barometer. A shroud
of fog indicates rain ; but the clear vision of the canoe itself is a sign of fair

weather.

Tako Arm.-— Opposite to Point Ardon, on the West shore, is the mouth

)int Windham th"
to Point Wind-
it may be confi-

W. 6 miles from
previously men-
o Hcijmot r Canal,
?oint TTiigli to its
lili's wide, which
termination is n
oratoly hij^-h, mid
int Hugh, whicli
f rocks, on which

ninsulft, dividing
of this passage,
lompaet, and free
and lying in tli«
rn shore extends
into three arms,

iposed of a corn-
covered with ico
m, on the Soutli,
rery rocky. The
named Holkham
W. i S. 2i miles
branch ; and the
Point Anmcr, the

trance in a N.E.
cove, terminated
;he N.W. side of
ig, 133° 49', is a
slet lying before
■ees.

, formed in 1841,
d by mountains.
Is, near the fort,
leter. A shroud
f is a sign of fair

re, is the mouth

TIIK IJTVKK TACO.

of the arm leading to the N.E. from Stephens TasRago. Its West point ..f
entrance is Point Salixiun/, a.ul it oxtoi.ds about N. by E. l;j miles when
the shores spread to East and West, and form a basin about a league' broad
and 2 leagues across. N.W. and S.E., with a small island lying nearly at its
N.E. extremity. J.^rom tho shores of this basin a compact body of ico ex-
tended some distance nearly all round at the timo of Vancouver'.s visit ; and
the adjacent region is composed of a closely united continuation of the lofty
range of frozen mountains, exhibiting as dreary and inhospitable an aspect
as the imagination can possibly suggest. The rise and fall of tide here were
very considerable, appearing to be upwards of 18 foot.

The River Tac= „- Tako, falling into the gulf to which it giv-s its name
according to Mr. Douglas, who ascended it about 35 miles, pursues a ser-
pentine course between stupendous mountains, which, with the exception of
a few points of alluvial soil, rise abruptly from the water's edge. lu
spite of the rapidity of the current, the savages of the coast ascend it lOQ
miles in canoes. The tribes who live on the coast between this and Port
Houghton are known as the Sundowns and Takes, and aro treacherous and
mostly hostile, numbering about 500.

From Point Arden the principal inlet takes a general course of W. J N.,
and is about a league in width. About 3 leagues along the South shore is
Point Young, forming the East point of a cove. Here the width of the arm
is decreased to half a league, and the South shore stretches N.W. i N. 7
miles to another cove with an islet lying near it. North from this cove 1 J
league distant, is the West point of Douglas Maud, so named after the then
Bishop of Salisbury, and forms the North side of this portion of the passage.
It is about 20 miles long, md 6 broad in the middle, and separated from
the continent by a narrow channel. To the N.W. of this part is a rocky and
intricate portion of the passage, very dangerous for the navigation of ship-
ping, so that the communication between it and the large channel to the
North and West of it is impeded.

The channel beyond the N.W. point of Douglas Island is divided into
two branches by a very narrow island about 4J miles long, and half a mile
broad. The passage on its N.E. side may be considered as next to impassa-
ble for shipping, by the rocks and islets at the S.E. end of it. The other
channel is equally unsafe and intricate, from the same cause.

Opposite the North end of the above island is Point Retreat, the northern-
most point of Admiralty Island ; it is in lat. 58° 24', long. 134*^ 59' About
a league southward from Point Eetreat, in the southern channel, is a deep
cove, Barlow Cove, which, with the narrow island lying before it, forms a
very snug harbour, of good access by the passage round to the North of Point
Retreat, as the rocky part of the channel lies to the S.E. of it. To the West
of Point Eetreat and Admiralty Island is that extensive branch named by

4,,^ COAST OF ALASKA.

Vancouvor after tho nobloman, Chatham Strait, to tho South orening of

which wo will now return.

CHATHAM STRAIT.-Cape Decision, the 8.E. point of entrance, hns
been before described. It was so named by Van.ouver. from hi- having, so
far decided that the great openings stated to exist by Do iM.nto l)e Imkh.
and others, did not exist-a conclusion he was scarcely warranted m making,
inasmuch as a moro careful attention to their narratives show some truth,
although much alloyed with the fabulous.

The other point of entrance is Cape Ommanoy, tho South oxtrcm.ty ot
the Sitka Archipelago; it was so named by Captain Coln.tt. Oil it l.os a
rock called Wooden Hock, from one of Vancouver's men having been drowncMl

^Tho opening between Capes Ommanoy and Decision was named by Col-
nett Christian Sound, and off the opening is a group of small rocky islets, a
league in extent, called the Ifazy Islands. They lie 8. i K 16 leagues from
Cape Ommaney, S.W. by W. i W. from Capo Decision, and 3 leagues
West from Coronation Island, which is tho nearest land to them.

Tho eastern shore of tho strait, from its southern point to tho entrnnco ot
rrince Frederick Sound, has been before described (p. 459). Point Gardnn;
tho North point of its entrance, is also the southern extremity of Admiralty

Tfll8.TlQ

Hood Bay.-From Gardner Point the eastern shore of the strait runs about
N f W '22 miles to Hood Bay, which is about IJ league across to Point
Samuel, and has some islands nearly in its centre. At 2i miles eastward of
Point Samuel, on the North shore of Hood Bay, is the entrance to an exten-
sive inlet, which runs in a N.E. direction f<.r 20 miles, nearly to the head
of Seymour Channel, and thus separating Admiralty Island into two pe-

"'kOUTZNOU or Kushnou, an Indian settlement on tho South point of the
entrance to this strait, is in about lat. ^T 30' N., long. 134° 32' W. It is one
of tho military pods established by the United States. The tribe of Indians
which give it the name are (or were) about 800 in number, and had a bad

reputation. „ , m, i. • •

Point Parker is 9 miles N. I W. from Point Samuel. The coast is in-
dented into several small bays ; the shores are low, and much divided by
water. Beyond this, still following the same direction for 30 miles, is Point
Harden. The land is very moderately elevated, covered with fine timber,
chiefly pine, and terminating at the water-side with alternate steep rocky
cliffs and small sandy bays. Hence to Point Eetreat, which is the North
extremity of Admiralty Island before mentioned, the distance is about 16
miles, the coast being nearly in the same direction and of the same character
as that more to the South.

ADMIRALTY ISLAND.— The shores of Admiralty Island, which have

nutli opening of

of entrance, hsiM
)ni hia liftvinf? ho
I'onto, Do l-'uta,
ranted in making?,
ibow Boir.o truth,

)uth oxtromity of
(>tt. Olf it lies (I
ing been tlrownod

ns named by Col-
lall rocky islets, a
. 16 leagues from
Q, and 3 leagues
them.

to the entrnnco of
i). Point (jardnvr,
mity of Admiralty

10 strait runs about
ue across to Point
miles eastward of
trance to an oxten-
nearly to the head
sland into two pe-

South point of the
\° 32' W. It is one
'he tribe of Indians
ber, and had a bad

The coast is in-
id much divided by
ar 30 miles, is Point
d with fine timber,
ternate steep rocky
which is the North
distance is about 16
f the same character

Island, which have

ITXN * .WAT.

4r.;

thus been desciibod, are about 60 lougUKS in ciiciiit. With thfl exception of
its N.W. and H.E. parts, they are very bold, alfordin^,' many convoniont
Imys lik(ily to admit of safe anchorngo, witii tine stroains of fresh vrntor
flowing into thoni, and presenting an aspect very dilforcnt from tliat of tho
adjacent continent, as tho island in genonil is raodorutely eiovatod, and pro-
duces an unintorruptod forest of very fine timljor troes, oliicfly of Iho pino
tribe; whilst tho shoros of the continent, bounded by a continuation of
those lofty frozen mountains which extend south-eastward from Mount
Fairwoathcr, rise abruptly from tho wator-sido, covered witii porpctunl
snow, whilst their sides arc broken into deep ravines or valleys, filled with
immense nn)untains of ico ; notwithstanding that the island seems to bo
composed of a rocky substance covered with little soil, and that chiefly con-
sisting of vegetables in an imperfect state of decay, yot it produces timber
which was considered by Mr. Whidboy to be superior to any ho had before
noticed on this side of Ameri(!a. Tho ocean hereabouts, too, encroaches
most rapidly on the low land. The stumps of trees, in various stages of do-
cay, still standing eroot, are to be found below high-water mark, and many
of the low shores, now covered with the soa, produced, at no very distant
period, tall and stately timber.

LYNN CANAL. —In lat. .58° 35' a point projects from the West shore of
Lynn Canal, which bears N.N.W. from Toint Retreat and N. by W. frc;
Point Couverden, the extremity of a peninsula separating tho canal from
Chatham Strait. Both sides of the arm are bounded by lofty, stupendous
mountains, covered with perpetual ice and snow, whilst the shoros in tho
neighbourhood appear to be composed of cliffs of very fine slate, interspersed
with beaches of paving-stone. The channel continues to be about 5 miles
wide, and the western shore straight and compact. In lat. 58" 54' is a small
islet about 2 miles from tho West shore. Another islet lies to the Nortli,
between it and the South point of an island 5 miles long and 1 broad, lying
along the western shore, and forming a channel about a mile wide, having
at its southern entrance shoals that extend nearly from side to side. Beyond
this the arm diverges into two branches, the West one terminating in its
navigable part in lat. 59° 12'. At its head, according to Lisiansky's chart, is
the native village of CMhat. There are some islets and rocks in mid-
channel, and above these the water is perfectly fresh. Above the shoal
limiting the navigation the arm extends half a league, and through a small
opening a rapid stream of fresh water rushes over the shoal. The eastern
side of this portion of the arm is low and indented into small bays and com
extending S.E. ^ S. 4^ leagues to Seduction Point. This peninsula is a nar-
row strip of low land 1 or 2 miles across, separating the western from tlio
eastern arm, which extends N. by W. | W. about 11 miles, and thence winds
in a westerly direction about 3 miles further, where it terminates in low
land, formed immediately at the foot of high stupendous mountains, broken
North Pacijie. 2 h

■ t

^,.,, THE 81TKA AUCmrKlAOO

i,.to .loop Bulloy«, and louded with perpotual i.o and -now The on«torn
Ire of the .nlot troudn iu a compact n.anuer to I'u.nt St. Wary .n h.t,
t Ih, ..min. the North point of a bay cal.od ^-^ J^^^^ ^ ^ -
acroHH in a H.S.K. dircti-.n. and abont .', nnlo« d..p to the N.N. K 1-rom
itH South part. I'oM Bnd.,,U the continental shore tnkoH a d.ro..t on B.8.K
K a .1 t IH nub. lio« a .nail inland, with ««me rock« and .b.K abon
•t i»eyond thi« navigation i« dillKult. oven for boats, be.n, meommodo.l
with numbcrloHH islets and rooks.

Lynn Canal was hrnt mado known and «urvoyed by N aneouver s par y,
.irMr. NN hidbey. in .Inly, 1794. and was nam.d by the commander after
liis native town iu Norfolk.

It receives a rivr.:. whieh the Indiana asrond about 50 nnles to a vall.y

running towards Mount Faim-eather, and containing a larj^o lake, wh,.!-

r 1 waters into the open ocean at Admiralty Bay. The nat.ves of th.s

vly are called the Copp- ludians. from the abundance of v.rg.n copper

iu the neighbourhood.

THE ?ITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

Tho l.nd forming this collection of islands, named by Vancouver King
George 111. Archipelago, was Erst discovered by Alexoi Tsclunkow, tho
Lnd incoxnmand of the expedition under the unfortunate Behnng. m
1741 This was their third voyage, and they were separated by a stonn
soon after they had set out on their voyage. Tschirilcow dxreeted hjs . se
to the East, from the paraUel of 48^ and, towards the middU, of July
the land of America, between tho fifty-fifth and tifty-s.xth ParaUo.^ -^.
otLors place his landfaU in 58". The coant which ho found was steep bar-
ren, gx^^rded by rocks, and without a single island that eouU>. afford shelter.
Ho^uichored otf the coast, and detached his long-boat, with orders to put on
shore wherever she could land. Several days elapsed without her reappear-
'g "re despatched his other boat to gain tidings of her, but the latter no
douM experiencod the same fate as the former, and it is unknown what be-
came of either. Some canoes, manned by native Americans, presented
themselves a few days after, to reconnoitre the ship; but they durst not
approach her, and there remained on board no boat of any sort that codd
be dete.chedtojoi.orpursue them, and prevail on them to come to the
bL vhere they would have been detained for hostages. Tschjnkow,
despairing to see again the men whom he had sent on shore, resolved to
; tZ coast, a^d'accordiugiy returned to Kamtschatka 'f -e discovene.
Lame known to France and Europe from the fact of Dehsle de la Croy r ,
oZ of t^e brothers of the French savans, and Dr. SteUer, the naturahst
having Accompanied Tschirikow. Such was the first authentic discovery of
North Wc«t America, which arose out .f the origmal plans projected by

te> i :i"i'f| ii »J|!il»t »'»'"'■ ■

nARANorr island, vjc.

4fi7

now. Tho onstorii
t 8t. Wary, in Int.
littij, ttl)Out 4 iniloi*
the N.N.E. From
% a (liriM'tion H.8.E.
ks and ioIf^tH about
being intonimodoil

Vaneouvor'H party,
iie commander aftov

60 niilos to a vallfv
a lartjo Inko, wliidi

Tho natives of this
nee of virgin copper

by Vancouver King
^xoi Tficliirikow, tho
jrtunato Bohring, iu
jeparatod by a stonu
w diroctod his c ''e
iiiddlo of July •>

r-sixth parallc..- -i
juud was steep, bar-
, couh'. afford shelter,
with orders to put on
without her reappoar-
her, but the latter no
is unknown what be-
Amoricans, presented
p ; but they durst not
of any sort that could
them to come to the
Lostages. Tschirlkow,
on shore, resolved to
ka. These discoveries
r Delisle de la Croyere,
Steller, the naturalist,
authentic discovery of
lal plans projected by

Potor flu' Oroaf, and Nubsofpiimtly carrifd into ('(feet by the KmprosM <'allm-
rini'. It lias sin<<> bt-cn calltMl the Sitka Arrhipelago, from tlie tiil)e of
Indiana who inlnibit it.

The land in quention, like Vancouver Island and otliers to the soutliward,
was thtm supposed to form i)art of the American rontiin'nt; and it was not
until Vancouver's expedition that riiatimm Strait was diseoverod, and thus
MJiowed the real nature of tlu; lan<l on the Pacific. Vancouver, too, as will
be seen from tiie preceding renuirks, did not very minutely examine tl>o
western .sliort> of the strait to wliich ho gave tho name of his vossol, bui
just inferred that it was ponetrateil by one or n\or(^ channels leading to tlm
open ocean, from the fact of some of the natives being found in the strait
who bolongod to the otlier side of the iHlands.

Capt. Urey Lisiansky, of the Kussian nn\., examined tho group in 1305,
and, by his survey, it appears that it consists of four principal islands, viz.,
Jaccobi, Kruzoff or Crooze, Laranoff, and Chichagotf.

Although Vancouver examined tho channels to tlio eastward of it, and the
Russians liavo surveyed, partiiiily, tlie western coast of tiie cliief island, yot
our accpiaintanco with its pliysical characteristics is still very limited.

BABANOFF ISLAND is tlie soutliernmost, and is about H.') miles in
length, by about 20 miles on its maximum breadth. On its West side is
Sitka or Norfolk Sound, the principal place of resort in these sens, and tho
situation of tho head-quarters of the Imperial Russian C.'onipany.

KRUZOFF or Crooze Island, the South extromi of which is formed
by Cape and Mount Edgcumbe, lies before Sitka Sound. It wcs named so
by Captain Lisiunsky, after tho Russian Admiral. It is separated from
Baranotf Island by Nova Channel. It is 18J miles in length. At its North
extreme is the Klokacheva Sound, or tho Buy of Islands, but which leads to
the strait, separating the two principal islands of the group, called by Lisi-
ansky Paynohmy or rcrnicious kitrait. It joins Chatham Sound, is deej), and
derives its name from a party of Aleutians having been poisoned there some
years previously by eating mussels. Crooze Island is called Pitt Island iii
L.'' Perouse's and some other early charts.

CHICHAGOFF ISLAND is the next and northernmost large island. It
is divided from Baranoff Island by the strait previously mentioned, and ex-
tends from it to Cross Souud, which separates it from the continent to the
northward.

Jacobi Island, the fourth of those described by Lisiansky, lies at the
N.W. extremity of Chichagoff Island. The passage separating them was
not explored by Lisiansky.

CAPE OMMANEY, in lat. 56" 9', long. 134° 34', is tho South extreme of
the archipelago ; off it lies U^ooden Rock. They have been alluded to beforo
on page 464, as forming the S.W. entrance point of Chatham Strait.
Port Conclusion.— Two loaguea N. by E. i E. irom Capo Ommanoy, on

'2 u 2

468 THE SITKA AHCHIPH] AOO.

the eastern coast of Baranotf Inland, is the southern point of the entrance to
Fort Conclusion, m callod because it was hero that Vancouver's vessels
iwaited the couclusion of the survey of this coast in August, 1794, having
left England on the 1st of April, 1791, for that service. The North pouit of
Port Conclusion hears from the southern N. | W. 2 miles distant. The
depth of Tvater in mid-channel, between thes^e points, is 75 fathoms, but de-
creases to 8 or 10 close to the shores, without rocks or sands. S.SW. about
half a mile from the North point of entrance is a most excellent and «nug
basin, Port Armdrom,, about a mile long, and a third of a mile wide ; but
its entrance is by a very narrow channel, half a mile in length, in aW.S.W.

direction. j v tt

The western shore of Chatham Strait was not minutely surveyed by Van-
couver's party. It follows a nearly straight direction from Port Conclusion,
about N. by W. for 105 miles to Point Augusta, in lat. 58» 3^', long. 135^
preserving a nearly parallel direction to the opposite side, which varies from

6 to 9 miles distant.

This extensive arm, as far as was ascertained, is without danger, and
probably affords many places of refuge. The flood tide, although of short
duration, not running more than two hours, was regularly observed to come
from the South.« To the northward of Point Augusta the western shore
diverges more to the westward, while the eastern side beyond Port Marsden
still preserves tho same direction. Into the opening thus formed a peninsula
of the mainland projects to the southward, thus dividing it into two channels,
the principal being to the N.AV., while that which continues on in a North
or West course is called Lynn Canal.

Point Couverden, the South extremity of the above peninsula, is in lat.
f.8= 12', long. 135° 4'. It was so named after the seat of Vancouver's ances-
tors inHoirand. The continental shore in this neighbourhood constitutes a
narrow border of low land, well wooded with stately trees, chiefly of the
pine tribe, behind which extends a continuation of the lofty snowy mountains.
About 2 miles North of Point Couverden is one smaU island and three rocky
islets, one of which lies nearly in mid-channel. Beyond this the western
shore of the arm is firm and compact, indented with a few coves, and some
islets and rocks lying near it. The eastern shore, described on page 465,
presents a broken appearance.

From Point Couverden the continental shore takes a somewhat irregular

• Mr. Whidbey considorcd that Chatham Strait ■^^as likoly to he orio of the most profit-
aWo i.huc^ for procuiing tho skins of tho sea-ottor on the whole coast, not only from the
hhundance ohserved iu the possession of tho natives, but from the immense numbers of
thfde animals seen about tho shores in all direction.. Here the sea-otters were m such
plenty that it w.s easily in the power of the natives to procure as many as they cl ose to
be at tho trouble of taking. They were also of extremely fine quality.-(Vancouvcr, vol.
ni. p. 204.)

loint of the entrance to
lat Vancouver's vessels

August, 1794, having
e. The North point of

2 miles distant. The

is 75 fathoms, but de-
r sands. S.S.W. about
lost excellent and snug
lird of a mile wide ; but

in length, inaW.S.W.

utoly surveyed by Van-
1 from Port Conclusion,
lat. 58° 3^', long. 135°,
I side, which varies from

is without danger, and

tide, although of short

ularly observed to come

:i'u8ta the western shore

le beyond Port Marsden

thus formed a peninsula

ding it into two channels,

continues on in a North

bove peninsula, is in lat.
lat of Vancouver's ances-
'hbourhood constitutes a
itely trees, chiefly of the
le lofty snowy mountains,
all island and three rocky
Beyond this the western
;h a few coves, and some
described on page 466,

kes a somewhat irregular

;y to be orio of the most profit-
R-hole coast, not onlj- from the
rom the immense numbers of
re the sea-otters wore in euch
i;uro 88 man J- as they ol one tn
ine quality.— (Vancouver vol.

CAW. SPKXCEE.

4fift

direction, N.W, i W. 7 leagues, to a part of which lies a low and nearly
round island, about 2 leagues in circuit. About a league to tlie eastward of
it lie some islets. To the North and West of this the shores of the continent
form two large open bays, terminated by compact, solid mountains of ice or
glaciers, rising perpendicularly from the water's edgo, and boumlod to tlio
North by a continuation of the united lofty frozen mountains that extend
eastward from Mount Fairweather. An island lies W. .J S. from tiio low
round island above mentioned, distant from it 3 leogucs. Tliis ishind is
about 7 miles long, N.E. and S.W., and 3 miles )>road. On its North
side is a channel 2 to 3 miles wide, between it and the continental shore.
The N.W. point of this channel is Point iJimdan, in lat. 58° 21', long.
135° 55'.

To the westward of this point is a branch extending to the North and
N.W. At about 2 leagues up it the channel is nearly stopped by shoals,
rocky islets, and rocks, 4 miles beyond which it is finally closed, being in
most places greatly encumbered with ico. The entrance, which is about 2
miles wide between Points Dundas and Wimbledon, has, in mid-channel,
only 18 fathoms water. About the entrance the soundings are regular, of
a moderate depth, and afford good and secure anchorage ; but in the summer
season (or in July) vessels would be much inconvenienced by the immense
quantities of floating ice.

CAPE SPENCER, the North point of the entrance of Cross Sound, on the
Pacific Ocean, is a very conspicuous, high, bluff promontory. Off it extend
some rocks for about half a league. It is in lat. 68° 14', long. 136° 35', and
bears from Point Wimbledon 8.W. J W., distant 11 miles.

The southern shore of this portion of the strait is of a more broken cha-
racter than the northern. We have described it as far as Point Augusta,
lying opposite to Points Marsden and Couverdon. From this to Point Sophia
is N. by W. J W. 17 miles ; the coast composed chiefly of rocky cliffs, with
islets and detached rocks lying at some distance from tlio shore. The latter
point is at the N.E. of the entrance of Port Frideric/c, the entrance of which
is about a league wide, East and West, winding to the southward, and ap-
parently much divided by water. From the West side of ibis sound the
shore takes a more northerly direction, with some islets near it, to a point
which is the North extreme of King George Archipelago, in lat. 58'' 18'.
Hence the coast takes an irregular course, W. by S. 17.^- miles, to Poinf
Zavinia, containing many open bays. On the opposite shore of the sound is
Point Wimbkdoti, just mentioned, bearing N. by W. 6 miles from it. Between
these points is a group of one low and two high rocky islanvis, with some
rocks and islets about them.

Port Althorp is to the westward of Point Lavinia, which extends II miles
to the southward of it. Its South point of entrance is Point Lucan- From
Point Lucan, in a direction about N.W., lies a narrow, high island, about

^7,j TlIK SITKA AllCHIPELAGO.

21 luiles in length ; and between it. 8.E. point and I'oint Lucan there are
wldl islets. wUich render t.at p..ago not - -a.od.o^ or s.hng .
and out of the port as that to the North of the .sland, betw en at and the
Western part of a cluster oi three small islands, .hich extend about 2 xndes
roIthJeasteru side of the port This channel is clear, free fro.u da,.,er.
and is about H mile in width, with a tolerably snug cove m ^^^^ J^
eouvor anchored, just within its N.W. point ot entrance Th h>gl n^m^w
island affords great protection to the northern part of this P«'\;^'^^'
4po it to that'isiand, is about n -loa wide ; but nearly in the muld o o
tie harbour, and opposite the South point of the island, are some de ached
ro k a^.d at Poin Lucan, which is situated from Vancouver's ships' cove,
Ir ; miles distant, the width of the ^-^^ ^^ -f'/^^^^:
it extends S.E. | S. about 2 leagues, and terminates in a basin that affords
gold and securJ anchorage, the best passage into which is on the eastern

'^'cEOSS SOVm was discovered by Captain Cook, in his last voyage on
Sunday May avd, 1778, and was named by him from the <iay marked -
the caLdar Its existence was denied by some after its original discovery,
but t urvey of it proves that Couk's description is much more accura e
than L th/transit'y. distant view he had of it might have been reason^
ably expected. Its eastern limits may be placed at Points Lavina and
wLTedon, which have been previously described From -vardi^^ap^
pears to branch into many openings. Its southern shore from Point Luc^n
I Point Bingham, which is opposite to Cape Spencer, ^^fl^f^^J^;^
i W 10 miles. Between these points an opening takes a b.L. by b. duection
o7soau distance. I'oint B.,han, which lies S. by E. i E. 10 mdes from
vlvZencer, affords u bold entraoce into the sound, without rock, shoal,
;:rny p rmauent obstacle. The group of rocky islands noticed as exis mg
to the South of rt. Wimbledon, form a kind of termination to ^^-^ ^ - '
and almost separate the ocean from Chatham Strait, to the eastward of it
Lt on either side of these islands there are two narrow channels, bo^h
.vhioh are free from rocks, shoals, or any other impediment, -cepting the
large masses of floating ice, which rendor them very dangerous in the suni-
Lt season, und in the winter they are most probably entirely dosed or lui-

''"The unfortunate 1. P6rouse touched ou this part of the coast, previous tu
hi« departure ior the West, in 178G. He makeB the following remarks upon

'' M Cross Sound the high mouutai.. covered with snow terminate, the
.oaks of which are 8,000 or 9,000 ft, high. The country bordering on the sa,
I E of Cross Sound, although elevated 5,000 or 6,000 feet, is covered with
trees to the summit, and the chain of primitive mountains seems to penc.ru o
further into the continent Mount Cr.lhn, uhuo.t a. elevated as Mouut

- .— ■'-«ea«l\«t«BT»'Wf''

CAPE CROSS.

471

Lucan thore are
OUB for sailing in
iweon it and the
3n(l about 2 miles
free from danger,
), in which Van-
The high narrow
this port, which,
J in the middle of
ire some detached
liver's ships' cove,
liles, from whence
I basin that affords
I is on the eastern

lis last voyage, on
the day marked in
1 original discovery,
meh more accurate
t have been reason-
I'oints I.avina and
rom seaward it ap-
3, from Point Lucan
trends S.W, by W.
S.E. by S. direction
. J E. 10 miles from
without rock, shoal.
Is noticed as existing
tion to Cross Sound,
I the eastward of it ;
iw channels, both of
iment, excepting the
ingovous in the sum-
ontiroly dosed or iui-

the coast, previous to
[lowing remarks upon

enow terminate, the
{ bordering on the sea,
3 feet, is covered with
ins eeema to peuttruto
ft;) plevtited as Mouut

Fairwoather, is to the North of Cross Sound, in the same way that Mount
Fairwoathor is to tho North of the Baie des Franc^ais ; tlioy will serve to
point out the ports they are near to. Tho one may bo readily mistaken for
the other, in coming from tho South, if the latitude slionld not bo correct
within 15'. Otherwise, from all points, Mount Fnirweatlier appears accom-
panied by two mountains, less elevated ; and llouut Crillon, more isolated,
has its peak inclined towards tho South.

CAFE CEOSS, which was considered by Cook as forming the S.E. point
of entrance to tho sound, is not precisely so, but lies about 7 miles South of
Point Bingham, which forms the true S.E. point. The interior part is a low
rocky land, free from any danger.

From Cape Cross the coast takes a direction of S. 81'^ E., about 7 leagues,
to another promontory, to which Vancouver gave the name of Cape Edward,
and off which lies a cluster of small islets and rocks. The coast between
tlioso capes is much broken, and has several openings in it tliat appear likely
to afford shelter. Tlmt which uiT{)t!ared to Vancouver to bo tlio easiest of
access lies about 2 leagues to tho northward of Cape Edward, and as it is in
lat. hl° 14', ho was led to conclude that this opening was Portlock Harbour.

Fortlock Harbour. — About 2 miles from the shore to the N.W. of it,
we had 20 and 25 fathoms water, muddy bottom, and just within tho entrance
were some high barren rocks. On getting into the entrance of the passage,
which is about a mile across, we deepened the water to 30 fathoms, sandy
bottom, the barren rocks just mentioned (and Hogan Island) forming tho
South side ; the northern side is Hill Island, low laud. About half a mile
within the barren rocks we had 30 fathoms over a rocky bottom, which depth
and bottom we carried at least a mile further, steering N.E. by E., which is
nearly the course into the harbour. Presently afterwards wo shoaled tho
water to 10 fathoms, being then in the narrowost part of tho channel, hav-
ing to the North some bold rocks, and to the Smith a bluff point of laud ; to
the East of which, a small distance from shore, arc uo rocks which just
show themselves above water. Immediately on panHiiig these rocks wo
deepened tho water very quickly to 30 and 40 fathoms, and u most spacious
and excellent hai-bour opened itself to our view, bending to the N.W. and
IS.E., and running dei>p into the northward, with a numljor of small isiunds
scattered about. Wo ran up towards the N.W. part of tho harbour, and
after passing a small island near the North shore covered with trees, wo
anchored in 31 fathoms, mud, entirely land-locked ; the rocks lying in tho
inner part of the passage, just shut in with the small island already men-
tioned, and bearing South a or 4 miles distant. — I'ortlock, p. 2.')7-8.

(ioidding Harbour is a branch of Portlock Harbour, extending from its
N.W. part. It runs in a zig-zag diroction, between North and N.E. , about
5 miles to the head of it from tho island on the entruuco, with trees scattered
about in various parts.

:i«.««aWH*««W«'ilK«'"-'"^

472

THE SITKA AECniPELAQO.

From Cape Edward tho coast takes a direction about S. 30" E. to a very
conspicuous opening, named by Capt. Cook the Bay of Mantis. He rightly
oonsidered that it was the entrance to a i.'liannol which separated tho land,
on which Mount Edgcumbe is situated, from the adjacent shores. It is
also tho entrance to the channel separating tho two principal islands of tho
Sitka Archipelago. The names given by Cook and others are now forgotten,
and the llussian charts of 1848 and 1853 give Eussian names t_. all the
points. AVe aro unable to give any directions for them ; the charts must
supply all information for tho present.

CAPE EDGCUMBE, the S.W. point of Kruzoff Island, the Cabo del
Engano of the Spanish charts of Maurelle, is low land, covered with trees,
which projects considerably into tho sea, lat. 57*^ 2', long. 135° 46'.

Mount Edgcumbe, whidi stands on the South end of the island, inland of
tho capo of the same name, is the IMoimt San Jacinto of the Spanish charts.
It was estimated by liisiansky, wiio ascended it, to be about 8,000 feet in
height ; on tho last Eussian chart it is said to be ov\y 2,800 feet, a re-
markable difference. Tho side toward the sea is steep, and was covered
with snow (in July, 1805) ; that towards the bay (to the southward) is
smooth, and of gradual ascent, and overgrown with woods to within IJ mile
of the top. Tliis upper space exhibits a few patches of verdure, but is in
general covered with stoi'S of different colours. On the summit is a basin,
or crater, about 2 miles in circumference, and 40 fathoms deep, the surface
covered with snow.

SITS[A SOUND. — The name is that of the natives, who call themselves
Sitka-hans. It is probably tho same as tliat called by the Spaniards, Baya
lie Ouadalupa. It is also called Tckinkitdnay Bay by Marchand and other
authors. The name of Norfolk Sound was applied to it by Dixon, whose in-
dustry first made known its real character ; he anchored, probably, in the
first cove round Cape Edgcumbe, and did not penetrate to the eastward, to
where the present Eussian establishment is. The charts and desciiirtions of
this period ai-e so imperfect that they would probably rather tend to mislead
than instruct.

A bold, enterprising man, of the name of Baranoff, long superintended
the company's establishment. Although the coiuiuest of the Sitkans (Sitka-
hans), a branch of tho Kaloschians or Kaluslies, wan not easily achieved, ha
finally accomplished it. A warlike, courageous, ami cruel race, provided
with fire-arms by the ships of the North American United States in exchange
for otter-skins, they maintained an obstinato struggle against tho invaders.
But Baranoff at length obtained a decisive superiority over them. Ho built
some dwelling-houses, made an intrenchment, and having, in his own opinion,
appeased the Kalushes by profuse presents, confided the new conquest to a
small number of Eussians and Aleutians. Fur a short time matters went
on pro.'^peronsly, when siuldcnly the garrison left by L'aiaiioir, behoving itself

Mntw p MW^H iM ' Wi ' W

SITKA OR NEW ARCHANCJEL.

473

5. 30" E. to a very
'iiiuh. He rightly
parated tho land,
But shores. It is
pal islands of tJio
ire now forgotten,
names to all the
; the charts must

ad, the Cabo del
)verod with trees,
35° 46'.

e island, inland of
le Spanish charts.
)out 8,000 feet in
2,800 feet, a re-
and was covered
the southward) is
to within IJ mile
'^erdure, but is in
summit is a basin,
deep, the surface

o call themselves
e Spaniards, liaya
nhand and other
Dixon, whose in-
probably, in the
the eastward, to
ud descriptions of
Br tend to mislead

ing superintended
le Sitkans (Sitka-
asily achieved, he
el race, provided
States in exchange
nst tho invaders.
• them. Ho built
ri ills own opinion,
ew conquest to a
;me matters went
iH', believing itself

ill perfect safety, was attacked by gr(>at numbers of Kalushos, who entered
llio intrcnchmonts without oppo.sition, and murdered all they met with there
with circumstances of atrocious cruelty. A few Aleutians only escaped to
Kodiack, where tlioy brought the news of tho destructiuu ui' Sitka. This
took place in 1804, at tho period that Adiuirul Kruscn.'^tern made his voyage
round the world, and his second ship, tho Neva, was bound for the colony.
BaranofT took advantage of this, and with three armed vessels ho accom-
panied tli(! Arva to Sitka. The Kalushos retired at his njiproac'li to their
foiiihcations, and attempted to maintain a siege, but the guns from tho ships
soon caused a speedy surrender. They were allowed to retire unmolested,
but they stole away secretly on a dark night, after murdering all of their
party who might have been an encumbrance to them, liaranoff thus be-
came nominally posfjessod of tho island, but in reality of a hil' forming
a natural fortiticution, and fonuerly inhabited by a Kalush chief called
Katelan.

Sitka Sound is 1 2 miles wide at tho entrance between Cape Edgcumbe
and Sitka Point to the N.W., and the N.W. point of ]]iorka Island (tho Point
li'offehoim of Vaiu:ouver) to the 8.E. This last is the outermost of a laby-
rinth of islands which extends many miles to tho S.E. It is about 2 miles
in diameter, and appears to have a clear channel three-quarters of a mile
wide to the East of it, but at more than half a mile S.S.E. of its South
extreme, or one-third of a mile from Nvprop, an islet off it is the Vasileva
Rod; dangerous. A still more important danger, which will reqiiire all
caution in entering the soimd and making for the settlement, is a sunken rock,
with only 10 feet at low water, lying 2 miles S.VV. by W. i \V. maff. from
the N.W. point of IJiorka. There are several other detached breakers and
shoals shown on tho chart higher up the island, which cannot well bo de-
scribed verbally. At 12 miles north-eastward from the line of tho opening
of the sound is the Russian establishment of Sitka or JVovo Arkhangel, on a
promontory, within a range of scattered islets and rocks, which should not
be attempted by a stranger without a pilot.

SITKA or New Archangel, the Russian establishment, stands on tho
N.W. point of a bay on the eastern side of the sound. The arsenal is in
hit. 57" 2' 45", long. 135° 17' 10" W.

The harbour and approaches to Sitka have been surveyed, as before stated,
by the Russians, and the plan by Captain Yassilieff, 1850, will be the best
guide for entering the port.

The establishment, as may be supposed, is in a state of transition, since its
«liange of masters. Of its future it would be hard to predict, but there can
be no doubt but that, under the vigorous rule of the new government, many
"fits capahilities will be df^veloped. But as the trade in furs is under re-
ii'strictiou, and the climate forbids the Iioim- itf nmi.h agiijulture })oiug

— I ii.*w^ . * H il uWJWWW I WW '

474

THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

successful, the chief objects of colonization aro shut out from general
enterprise.

In one respect its fortunes ore already changed. Under the Russians it
was a I'emote and isolated place ; now it has a regular steam communication
with San Francisco, distant about 1,500 miles.

Mr. Frederick Whymper visited it in 1865, and his interesting volume,
diapter vii, "will give a good account of its condition at that time. The fol-
lowing is taken from an article in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, 1869,
which gives a description of the place as it is xmder the now regime.

The harbour of Sitka is a very picturesque one, with plenty of water for
the largest ships to pass in and out, but a dangerous one, owing to the large
number of little islets and rocks, between which pass narrow channels, any
of them with sufficient water to float a ship, but hardly sea-room enough to
be safe ; however, the old Russian pilot seems to have no difficulty in getting
through them when required. The entrance to the harbour is superb.
Mount Edgcumbe towers up some 8,000 feet above the level of the sea ; its
immense crater, tilled with snow, marks the north-western boundary of the
harbour, and can be seen at a great distance. Baranoff Island is made up
of mountains piled on mountains, looking as if pushed up out of tlie sea by
some grand convulsion of nature at no very distant day, as evidenced by their
peaked summits and jagged outlines.

The town of Sitka, formerly New Archangel, is situated on a point of
land jutting out into the bay, from the base of the moimtains, probably
containing about 1,000 acres, and from the character of the soil appears to
have been made by the washings of the ocean. On the point is a largo
lake of fresh water, in front of which, along the edge of the bay, are about
150 log houses, scattered about promiscuously. There is but one street, and
that extends through the whole length of the town, and is continued for
about a mile to Indian River, a little moimtain stream emptying into tlio
bay at this point. This is the only road on the island ; beyond this, and
in fact, on all sides of the island, for some distance before you reach its
termination, the thicket is impenetrable. This little river furnishes splendid
water, cold as ice, and seems to get its supply from the melting snows on the
summit of the mountains. To this little river the road leads, and was made
by the Russians for the purpose of getting water, as the lake water is hardly
lit to drink. There is not a well or cistern on the island, a largo proportion
of the water used being carried in small casks slung on a pole, on the
shoidders of two men or women.

The governor's house is built on a rock, and overlooks the town and bay,
is a very large structure, and heretofore furnished not only a residence for the
governor, but for many of the officers of the company. There are largo
rooms on the second floor, readily converted into one immense room, the
partitions being moveable, for entertainments, which were given by the

NEW AliCII ANGEL.

476

ut from general

the EuaslaiiH it
m conimuniciition

ieresting volume,
t time. The fol-
Mag-azine, 1869,
V regime.
)uty of water for
wing to the large
ow channels, any
-room enough to
ffieulty in getting
rbour is superb.
3I of the sea ; its
boundary of the
si and is made up
)ut of the sea by
ividencod by their

ted on a point of
imtains, probably
le soil appears to
e point is a large
le bay, are about
ut one street, and
1 is continued for
mptying into tlie
beyond this, aud
ire you reach its
urnishes splendid
ting snows on the
Is, and was made
ce water is hardly
I large proportion
1 a pole, on the

lie town and bay,
I residence for the
There are largo
mense room, the
ere given by the

governor very often, he being allowed a fund for this purpose by the Coui-
jiany. Tlio house is surrounded by a wide platform, the side towards the
bay being protected by a redoubt and stockade, in which cannon wero
mounted, as well as on the platform. The garrison Ihigstall' is on this
platform. The house is approached by tliroo flights of stejis ; on the first
Ijlatfonu is a covered way to the entrance of the house ; on the next, a
scutry-box, and on the next, on one side the guai-d-houso and on the other
u service magazine ; and at the foot of the steps the barracks for the soldiers.
All approaches to it were well guarded. On the other throe sides are the
Company's warehouses, still occupied in part by them, forming a hollow
square, with a battery of some twelve or fourteen guns bearing on the
Indian village, and one of the approaches to the town.

There is a dock hero, which is in a dilapidated condition, and cannot be
used for ships to lay alongside of until it is extended. Tlie Russians had an
old hulk anchored in front of it and a staging built, but this was destroyed
by the lurious gale we had here shortly after our arrival.

The Company's oilice was on the loft of the entrance to tlie governor's
house. This is now occupied ; the upper part of it for otficers' quarters, and
the lower rooms for the head-quarters and collector's office. Opposite the
entrance to the greenhouse is a ship-yard, and further on, on the edge of the
bay, is a large storehouse, now occupied by the quartermaster. The stockade,
separating the Indian village from the town, runs in a north-easterly direc-
tion, and is about ? mile in length, terminating at the lake.

The Greco-ltussian church has rather an imposing cathedral here, which
is a great relief to the appearance of the town. It has a dome and steeple,
with a chime of bells, stands nearly in the centre of the town, fronting the
main street, in fact is in its centre, the street fronting on each side. It is
built in the form of a cross, and although it has a rather rough exterior is
very gorgeous inside, decorated with the paraphernalia appertaining to the
church service, which is very imposing and magnificent. The church pro-
perty here consists of the bishop's house, widows' home, cathedral, and
chapel. The Indian village fronts the bay, and contains about one hundred
large huts, built of hewn logs, and very substantial — built for defence as
well as to live in. There are from eight to twelve hundred warriors, witii
their squaws, children, and dogs. Up to the time of our arrival they wore
not permitted to come into the town, except as they were wanted by the
llussians to work. A few passes were given to the more distinguished
chiefs ; but since the stars and stripes have floated from the flagstaflP, Mr.
and Mrs. Indian have been permitted to pay us their respects an)' time
between reveiUe and retreat ; but after that, if caught in town, are locked
up in the cells until morning, and possibly, for example sake, for two or
throe days.

liiorka Mand, or Point Wodckouse, as pre^•i()Ukly mentioned, is the S.W.

i j ii n ii ju iii iu n/ i ij i iairj

ni^^ms

T-l-n.-Tiftwrr-ini

47«

THE SITKA ARCHIPELAGO.

point of 8itkii Sound. Au oxtwiisive group of islets and rocks extend S.8.E.
from it for 3 or 4 miles from the shore, whicli, from thut point, with littlii
variation, takes a course of 8. t36° E. This part of the coast is much brok(;n
into small openings, with islets and detached rocks lying off it.

We can olfor no account of it. At 20 miles from IMorku Island the Rus-
sian charts show an extensive inlet, trending to the N.E., named Whale
Bay. It is the Port Banks, of Capt. Dixon, is in lat. .'56"' 35', and <he fol-
lowing are Uixon's remarks on it : — " The prospect at Port Hanks, though
rather confined, yet has something more pleasing and romantic ihan any we
had seen on the coast. The land to the northward and southward rises
sufficiently to an elevation to convey every idea of winter ; and though its
sides are perpetually covered with snow, yet the numerous pines, which
ever and anon pop out their lusty heads, divest it of that dreary and horrific
cast with the barren mountains to the N.W. of Cook River (Inlet). To
the eastward the land is considerably lower, and the pines appear to grow
in the most regular and exa('t order; these, together with the brushwood
and slirubs on the surrounding beaches, form a most beautiful contrast to
the higher land, and render the appearance of the whole truly pleasing and
dehghtful."

Cape Ommaney, the southern extremity of the Sitka Archipelago, lies 45
miles. from Point Wodehouse, and has been previously described, p. 464.

Thus the entire circuit of this archipelago has been imperfectly noticed.

We now return to the norths ard, taking up the description at the point
where Cross Sound terminates.

Cape Spencer, the point above named, has been noticed on p. 469.

From Cape Spencer the coast takes a direction of N.W. It is steep and
entire, well wooded, and, with the exception of one opening, Altona Gulf,
between it and Cape Fairweather, appears not likely to afford shelter for
ohipping. The coast is completely bounded at a little distance by steep,
compact mountains, which are a continuation of the same undivided range
stretching from the eastward.

CAPE FAIEWEATHEB is placed by Vancouver in lat. 58° 50i', long.
137° 50'. This cape cannot be considered as a very conspicuous promontory ;
it is most distinguished when seen from the southward, as the land to the
West of it retires a few miles back to the North, and there forms a bend in
the coast, and is the most conspicuous point eastward of Cape Phipps, at
liehring Bay, to the northward.

MOUNT FAIRWEATHER is one of the most remarkable mountains on
the N.W. coast of America ; it is 14,708 feet high ; in lat. 58° 54', long. 137°
38', and 9 miles from the nearest shore. Captain Cook says ; " This moun-

««r-

.£ilim

:ks extend S.8.E.
point, with littln
t is mucli broken
'it.

Islund tho Riis-
., named Whale
15', and the fol-
; Banks, though
itic than any we
southward rises
; and though its
us pines, which
3ary and horrific
ver (Inlet). To
1 appear to grow
I the brushwood
itifiil contrast to
ily pleasing and

bipelago, lies 45
■ibed, p. 464.
fectly noticed.

ion at the point

a p. 469.

It is steep and
ig, Altona Gulfy
fford shelter for
stance by steep,
undivided range

58° 501', long.
)U8 promontory ;
the land to the
forms a bend in
Jape Phipps, at

e mountains on

(° 54', long. 137"

: " This moun-

RF.imiXG B.\Y-PORT MULCR.WE. .177

tain is the highest of a chain, or rather ridgo of inouutuins, that riso at the
N.W. ontranro of Cross Sound, and extend iji u N.W. direction, parallel
with the coast. These mountains were wholly covered with snow (in May,
1788), from the higliost summit down to the sea-coast (wliicli was 12 leagues
distant), some fow places excej)tcd, when wo coidd perceive trees rising, as
it wore, out of tho sea ; and which, therefore, we supposed grow on low
land, or on islands bordering on the shore of the continent.

From ("ape Fairweather to Cape Phippa, at tho entrance of Behring Bay,
the di.stance is 715 miles ; tlio intermediate coast is a low border extending
from the base of the mountains, well wooded, and in some parts appears to
be much inundated, the waters finding their way to the sea in shallow rivu-
lets, through two or three breaks in the beach.

BEHRINO BAY, the true situation and character of which was first
elicited by Vancouver, runs inland, to tho N.E., between Cape Phipps and
Point Manby. Captain Cook, supposing that a bay existed to the S.E.,
conceiA^ed it to be the bay that Chotrow, tho master of Behring's fleet, re-
connoitred. This mistake was also followed by Capt. Dixon, mIio gave tho
name of Admiralty Bay to that in question ; but as Behring certainly wa.s
the discoverer of a bay in this locahty, and there being but one, the name
of that navigator has supplanted that applied by Dixon.

Cape Phipps, the south-easternmost point of Behring Bay, is in lat. 59°
33', long. l.'i'J" 47'. About 2 miles within it, the coast taking a S.E. direc-
tion, there is a .small opening in the low land, accessible only for boats, near
which was found an Indian village. Captain Sir Edward Belcher states
that he was driven much to tho westward by the current near Cape Phipps
(vol. i. p. 82.)

Point Turner, which is a low narrow strip of land, forming the S.E. point
of the island that protects Port Mulgrave from the ocean, is E. J S. 2|-
miles from the inner or North point of Cape Phipps. About a league E i
N. from Point Turner is a point on the main land, which is the East end of
a rounding bay, about 4 miles across to Cape Phipps. It is nscassary to
give a good berth to Cape Phipps, in order to avoid a small reef that
stretches from it into the sea. Cape Turner, on the contrary, is bold, and
must be kept close on board, for the purpose of avoiding the shoals that lie
a little distance to the eastward of it ; between these shoals and the point
good anchorage is found, in 8 to 14 fathoms, clear good holding ground.

The rise and fall of the tide here are about 9 feet ; and it is high water
about 30' after the moon passes the meridian.

PORT MULGRAVE lies to the N.E. of Point Turner, and is protected
from the ocean, as before stated, by an island lying in a N.E. and S.W.
direction.

It was possibly first discovered by Capt. Dixon, June, 17.87, who named it
after that nobleman. It contains a number of small low islands, which, in

iri

'' W§M0msiS^M3u ' mK^Ki^mm^:;^m,

^78 COAST OF ALASKA.

common with tho roat of tho coast, are ontiroly covored with pinp«, int.-r-
mixod with hruHhwood. To tho Nortli und Wo«t aro hi^h mountains covorcl
with snow, 10 loaguos distant.

It was visitod by Sir Edward Boldior, in H.M.S. Stdphur, who stayed a
short time here. Fish, hulihut, and sulmoji of two kinds, wore abundant and
modorato, of which tho crows pimluisod and cured groat quantitiofi Game
very scarce. Tlie remains of tlio Eussian establishments were ol^^orved ; a
blockhouse pitched on a cliff, on the East side; and <m the low point, where
the astronomical observations wore taken, the r(>mains of another; also a
staff, with a vane and cross, over a grave. Sir Edward Belcher says that a
good h>ading mark for the entrance to the harbour is with Mount Fairweather
over Cape Turner (or N. 88" E.)

An off-shore shoal, 7 fathoms, sand, was probalily crossed by tho Sulphur
in coming out of Port Mulgrave, when no land could be seen within 3 mUos.
—(Belcher, vol. i, p. 89.)

The island or islands before alluded to, which form tho outer face of Tort.
Mulgrave, and of which Point Turner is the S.W. extremity, extend for 8
miles in length. They aro almost joined to the continental shore by a spit
incommoded with many rocks and huge stones, but leaving a very narrow
channel, by which Vancouver's vessel, the Chatham, passed from one part of
the inlet to the other, from the northward.

Knight Island is 5 mUes N.N.E. of the northern entrance to the channel
just described. It admits of a navigable passage all round it, but there are
some rocks that Ue about half a mile from its West point ; and there is an
islet situated between it and the main land, on its N.E. side.

Eleanor Cove.— From the North entrance to Port Mulgrave the conti-
nental coast takes a N. 30" E. direction, 6 miles, to this cove, which is the
eastern extremity of Behring Bay. It is protected from the westward by
Knight Island, which is about 2 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction,
and about a mile broad, lying at the distance of a mile from the main

laud.

The shore here is low, and trends about N. 14" W. 6 miles to Point La-
touche, the S.E. limit of Bigges Sound or Bag. The two points forming the
entrance to Digges Sound, thus named by Vancouver, are bluff, lying
nearly East and West of each other, half a league asunder, tho eastern-
most of them being Point Latouche, as above mentioned. The shores ai-o
composed of a continuation of the low border, extending from the foot of
the mountain to the sea-side, and are bounded by frozen ice or snow, espe-
cially in the sound.

The continental coast, forming the North side of Behring Bay, runs
to the southward of West, and is nearly straight and compact. At 8
miles from the opening the land falls back, forming a small bay, with a

ICY MY.

4?^>

with pines, infcr-
mountains covorti I

hur, wlio stayed a
wore nbiindunt and
quautitii'fi Oanu;
worn ol'soiTod ; a
n low point, whcrn
of anothor; also a
lolchor says that a
Mount Fairweathir

sod by the Sulphur
loen within 3 miles.

5 outer face of Tort
mity, extend for 8
tal shore by a spit
ing a very narrow
od from one part of

nco to the channel
nd it, but there are
t ; and there is an
lido.

klulgrave the conti-
cove, whith is the
m the westward by
md 8.W. direction,
nile from the main

miles to Point La-
points forming the
er, are bluff, lying
iunder, the eastern-
led. The shores ai'o
ag from the foot of
a ice or snow, espe-

Behring Bay, runs
ind compact. At 8
a small bay, with a

I..W island about •_' miles long to tlu* N.N.E. of it. The const here trends
iS. ();r \V. SniiltiH, and then 8. 85" W. 2 leagiioM. to r.>iiit ^liinby.

Point Hanby fdrms the N.W. point of IJuhring Buy. It i.s in lat 51)' 42 ,
long. 140" l;{ . To the eastward of it the country is well woodod, and pro-
ceeding northward it loses its verdant and nion- fertile appearance; the coast
still continues to be a low compact border of jilaiii land.

Point Riou, though no longer existing, was a tolerably woll-mark(wl pro-
montory at the period of Vancouver's survey, and to whom it owes its iiam(*.
lie describes it as being low, well wooded, with a small islet detac^hed at a
little to tlie wcfstward of it. The coast is still composed of a spacious margin
of low land, rising, with a gradual and uniform nw.mxX, to the foot of
the still connected chain of lofty mountains, whoso summits are but the
base from whence Mount St. Elias towers majestically conspicuous in re-
gions of perpetual frost. Vancouver's charts, from thct extensive changes
continually going on, present but little to recognise in this part at the
present period.

ICY BAY lies to the N.W. of what was Point Riou. it is terminated by
steep ohfls, from whence the ice descends to the sea. At the eastern side of
the bay the coast is formed of low, or rather moderately elovated, land. Its
AVest point is a high, abrupt, cUffy point, boimded by a solid body of ice or
frozen snow.

This portion of the coast was visited by H.M.8. Stilphur, in her voyage
round the world, in 1837, and the following are Sir Edward Belcher's re-
marks, made during that visit : —

"Icy Bay is very aptly so named, as Vancouver's Point Riou must have dis-
solved, as well as the small island also mentioned, and on which I had long
set my heart as one of my principal positions. At noon we tacked, in 10
fathoms, mud, having passed through a quantity of small ice, all of a soft
nature. The whole of this bay, and the valley above it, was, now found to
be composed of (apparently) snow-ice, about 30 feet in height at the water
cliff, and probably based on a low, muddy beach ; the water for some dis-
tance in contact not even showing a ripple; which, it occurred to me,
arose from being charged with floating vegetable matter, probably pine-
bark, &c.

" The smaU bergs, or reft masses of ice, forming the cli% outlines of the
bay, wore veined and variegated by mud streaks, like marble, and, where
they had been exposed to the sea, were excavated into arches, similar to some
of our chalk formations. The base of the point .named by Vancouver Point
Riou probably remains ; but being free, for some distance, of the greater
bergs, it presented only a low sand, or muddy spit, with ragged, dirty-
coloured ice, grounded. No island could be traced, and our interest was
too deeply excited in seeking for it, to overlook such a desirable object.

"The current was found to set 1 J mile per hour, West, varying but slightly

Kj>i&;«ii;.:,.„v'fei„

^Ko ("OASl" uF AI.VSKA.

in forop. nn<l not nt nil in (lir.Mtian. At tliis ponitidn wo nniliaivd in TiO

fathoniH, II. al, nt>nr Mount St Klias ; not a x'nu^h' .Irilt trc.i was noti I.

\V.) won* within tlio white walt-r alM.ut 2 iiiih's, wiiich I am now Hnti«litMl
flowH from thct ico, but wliy it pnmorvos Hh unilbrmity ol' Htn-ugtli and diroi-
tion iH yot a problom to bo solvod."

MOUNT ST. ELIAS is ono of tho most romnrkiililn fontiin's of North-
W(mt Amoricn. It is u noblo conical mountain, risinj^ far into tho cloutlH,
and nlthouKli in a olimato far from tomi.orato, and of Huch an olovation as to
load to tho condusion that it risoH far into tlio limits of poq)otual Know, yet
Sir Edward neldior Bays :— " Its odgos, to tho very summit, prosont a fow
black wrinkles, and tin- dopth of snow doos not, oven in tlio drifts, appear to
bo very deep. It stands, as it wore, as before montionod, upon tho summit
of tho lofty range which runs parallel with tho soa coast." Its olovation,
according to angular measiiromont, is H, 98 7 foot above tho sea, and oven
when visible at 150 miles distant, appears to bo a nnijostio mountain.
Its discoverer was tho colobrntod Bohring, wlio made tho coast here on
tho 20th of August, 1741, tho name being applied from the saint to whom
that day is dedicated. Its lat. is GO" 18' N., long. IIO"^ 52' W.

Pamplona Rock, &C.— According to some information given to Vancou-
ver's party by the Russian olRcers ho met here, there is a very dangerous
rocky shoal, about 15 miles iu length, lying by compass in a direction S.
by W., 63 miles from a place called by them Lrda Utui/a. This Mr. Puget
conceived to be near the point called Point lliou. Tho Russian officer,
Portoff, himself had been on the shoal, taking sea otters, and stated that
the first discovery of it was owing to a Russian galliot having had the
misfortune, some years before, to be wrecked upon it. Two of the crew
were drowned, but the rest escaped in their boats. After that period an
annual visit had been made to it, for tho purpose of killing sea-otters, which
wore there met with.

From the Spaniards, also, Vancouver learnt that a very dangerous rock
existed in this neighbourhood, the situation of which they had taken great
pains to ascertain, and had found it to lie S. 41° E. from Cape Suck-
ling, at tho distance of 26 leagues, and which was called by them Rock
Pamplona. By this bearing it appears to lie E.S.E., 8 miles distant from
the rocky shoal described by the Russians above ; here it may be inferred
that Portoff and the Spaniards intended the same shoal, though it is not
stated by the latter to be so extensive as by the former.

It is without doubt dangerously situated for the navigation of this coast,
and it may possibly have proved fatal to Mr. Meares's consort, Mr. Tipping,
who, with his vessel, was never heard of after leaving Prince William Sound

in 1786.
The Coast, from Icy Bay, extends nearly East and West, without any-

i ' ^B^i.Hf

nnclidVtMl in SO
ret) WHS noticoii.
[im now HiitiMlicil
•ciigtli iiiid (lirt'c-

ntiiros of Nortli-
inti» the cIouiIm,
111 olcvatidii as to
|)('tuiil Hiiow, yet
it, prcsout a fow
( drifts, iippoiir ti>
upon thn Nuiiiiuit
" Its ol<>vatioii,
10 Ben, and even
ij(mtio niountnin.
Ill) const hort) on
o saint to whom
W.

jivon to Vnncou-
i vory dnngcirous
in a direction S.
This Mr. Pugot
e Russian officer,
3, and stated that
having had the
Two of the crew
or that period an
J sea-otters, which

y dangerous rock
y had taken great
from Cape Suck-
ed by them Rock
niles distant from
may be inferred
though it is not

tioa of this coast,
sort, Mr. Tipping,
ice William Sound

rest, without any-

("AI'E SlTKUXd.

|sl

iliing romnikablo for K) mili-s, whi«ro tlioro is a Hmnll rivor, called by tlio
HuHHians /I'llco /ln/x/ir rmiln. It has a l-'ar, and but Iiftli< dcptli of water.

A few leagues furtlior to tlio westward is another Mniall rivor, oin|itviiig
itself into a sliallow bay Its ciitranco is obstructed by a bar, on whicli,
with oastorly winds, the sea breaks witli groat violence.

The coast between this and Capo Hiicklin;^' shoots out into small projecting
points, with alternate low, clili'y, or wliito sandy beaches, being the toriiiiiia-
tion of a border of low woodland country, extending some distance witliin,
until it joins the foot of a closely united chain of lofty fro/en mountains,
which ic connected with the same range that extends to the north-westward
around I'rinco William Hound and Oook Inlet. From thos(> low piojecting
points some shoals stretch into the ocean. Vancouver passed one of these
at the distance of about 4 miles, sounding in 3.5 fathoms ; it extends in a
southerly direction, 2 miles from a low point of land that forms the West
point of a bay, apparently vory shoal. From the West point of lliis bay, in
lat. GO' 3' 30', long. 112' SI' W., the shore towards Capo .Suckling makes a
small bend to the north-westward, but the general direction of the coast is
nearly East and West, and appears to be firm and compact.

CAFE SUCKLINO, so named ''y Cook in his third voyage, is conspicuous.
Vancouver, differing much from Cook, ploces it in lat. 60" 1', long. ll.T 41',
l)ut is considered by Raper as long. 143' .'54'.* The point of the capo is low,
but within it is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoined from tho mountains
by low land, so that at a distance tho capo looks like an island.

When near Capo Suckling, Captain Sir Edward I3olchor says: — "Our

tention was suddenly attracted by the peculiar outline of tho ridge in pro-
file, which one of our draughtsmen was sketching, apparently toothed. On
examining it closely with a telescope, I found that although the surface pre-
sented to the naked eye a comparatively even outline, it was actually one
mass of small, four-sided, truncated pyramids, resembling salt-water mud
which has been exposed several days to the rays of a tropical sun (as in tro-
pical salt marshes), or an immense collection of huts.

" For some time we wore lost in conjecture, probably from tho dark nsli
colour; but our attention being drawn to nearer objects, and the sun lending
his aid, we found the whole slope, from ridge to base, similarly composed;
and as the rays played on those near the beach, the brilliant illumination dis-
tinctly showed them to bo ice. We were divided between admiration an<l
astonishment. What could produce these special forms? If ono could fancy

* It may be stated that the charl8 drawn lip by Vancouver won' found by Sir PMwarl
Bplohor to bo plainly erroneous about this region. All his tran-jit bt';irinRS and other ob-
servations indicated this. A river appears to Itow near (,'apn Suckling, which has not bom
noticed. — Voyage of tlio Sulphur, vol. i, p. l"fl.

Kuiih I'aci/ic. '^ i

ill .ua WW ..(t)!iM.'M"i

•WKIOTlUJrOMM

.1S2 C0A8T OF ALASKA.

himself perched on an eminence, about 500 feet above a city of snow-whito
pyramidfll houses, w.ti. smoke-coloured flat roofs, he might form some lamt
idea of this beautiful freak of nature."

rape Suckling is a low neck, stretching out from a mountainous isolated
rid'^o which terminatf^s about 3 miles from it easterly, where the flats of the
ice pvinmida just alluded to terminato, Apparently the river or openn.g
ncarCape Suckling flows round its base. There is little doubt but that we
may attribute the current to this outlet, arising probably, from the melting
of tho snow. We had less strength of current after passing this position.
Immense jiilos of drift wood were noticed on each side of the opening, but

noyie elsewhere.

Kaye Island, to the West and S.W. of the capo, is long and narrow. Its
South point, named by Vancouver Cape Ilamnd, is very remarkable, being
a naked rook, elovated considerably above the land within it. There is also
an elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears like a
ruined castle. Towards tho sea the island terminates m a kind of bare,
eloping clifis, with a narrow, stony beach at their foot, and interrupted with
some gullies, in each of which is a rivulet or torrent, and tho whole sur-
mounted with a growth of smallish pine trees.

'« Kaye Island, viewed from tho eastward, presents tho appearance of two
islands. The southern is a high table-rock, free from trees and vegetation,
and of a whitish hue ; the other is moderately high land for this region, with
three bare peaks, its lower region being weU wooded.-CSir Edw. Belcher,

vol. i, p. 70.) Til

WinghainLland.-Off the N.W. point of Kayo Island is Wingham Island,
and oft' its N.E. point. Point Jlcsurur, are some elevated rocks. Within these
and to the N.\V. of Cape Suckling, is CompiroUer .««./, which is shoal, and
extends 20 miles north-westward to Point Hey.

Wingham Island, which can be seen to nearly its whole length between
Cape Suckling and Point Le Mosurier (the North part of Kaye Island),
is moderately elevated, rising in three hummocks, which are bare on their
summits The southern, at a distance, owing to the lowness of the neck,
appears separated. Tho whole ia well clothed with trees.-(Sir Edward

Belcher.) ■ n ^ • -u-

PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND was first explored by Captain Cook in his
last voyage.* Although this extensive inlet was before known to tho Eus-
Bians the coast took him ten days to traverse, llth to 21st of May, 1778, a
week of which was spent in tho inlet; but, from the subsequent survey of

. Prince William Sound, and partisulaxly its N.E. part, waa visited by Srar. Fidalgo, in
1790, for tho purpoee of inquiring into the nature and extent of the Russian estaUiflhmeuts
in tliose regions.

:ti''.ff. ' J»^y'. ' WW ' .w i nl<W.wi> ' .iJ,<u»inji,ja-,

TO a city of snow-white
might form somo faint

I rao\iiitainous, isolated
y, whero the tlata of the
J the river or opening
ittlo doubt but that we
bably, from the molting
r passing this position,
ide of the opening, but

is long and narrow. Its
very remarkable, being
within it. There is also
3 of view, appears like a
ates in a kind of bare,
jot, and interrupted with
mt, and the whole aur-

,ts the appearance of two
3m trees and vegetation,
[and for this region, with
ed.--(,Sir Edw. Belcher,

iland is Wing'ham Island,
ated rocks. Within these
Hay, which is ehoai, and

s whole length between
h part of Kaye Island),
I, which are bare on their
the lowness of the neck,
vith trees. — (Sir Edward

by Captain Cook in his
)fore known to tho Eus-
to 21st of May, 1778, a
;ho subsequent survey of

aa visited by Soar. Fidalgo, in
of thfl Uussian establinhmeuts

HINCHINliI{( )0K ISJ.AXI).

483

Captain Vancouver, it was found that no portion of his celebrated predo-
cessor'fl labours were so defectively described and dolinoatod as this, which
loads to tho supposition that some imyortant authority has boon omitted in
the drawing up of tiie narrative, which would not have occurred had tho un-
fortunate circumnav'pator survived to superintend its publication. From the
minute oxaminatir n which was made of ic by Vancouver, it proved to be a
branch of the ocf an that requires the greatest circumspection to navigate ;
and although it diverges into many extensive arms, yet none of them can be
considered as commodious harbours, on account of tho rocks and shoals thut
obstruct the ajiproaches to them, or of tho very great doptli of water about
their entrances.

The N.E. point of tho coast, whore the sound commences, is Cape Wihhcl,
which is 43 miles from Point Hoy, last described, the coast between being
fronted by a very extensive mud-flat. The outward coast of the sound is
formed l)y Hinchinbrook and Montagu Islands ; between and to the West
of which are the entrances to it.

HINCHINBEOOK ISLAND is the north -easternmost of those before Prince
William Sound. It.s N.E. point, named Point JJeiUinck, is opposite to Point
Witshed, a league t sunder, the space between occupied by a low, barren,
uninterrupted sand at low water, being a continuation of the sand-bank, ex-
tending from Comptroller I?ay, and also along tho coast to the N.E. of Point
Witshed. It is dry at low water, but at high water it was stated that there
is a. boat channel, though Vancouver's party found the whole space occupied
by a most tremendous surf, rendering any passage at that time impracticable.
Cape Hincliinbrook, the S.W. point of the island, is 20 miles S.W. of Point
Bentinck, and is placed by A'aneouvor in lat. 60° 16J', long, (corrected) 140°
2T. In a direction S.W. ^ S. 7 miles from the cape, is a barren, flat, rooky
islet, with several rocks lying at a small distance from it. This lies, there-
fore, off the entrance to the sound between Hinchinbrook and the N.E. end
of Monlngu Islands.

Between Montagu and Hinchinbrook Islands Captain Sir Edward Belcher
found shoal water, contrary' to Vancouver's idea, rendering it necessary to
anchor in 17 fathoms, the tide running at 3 knots.

Port Etches** is on the eastern, side of the entrance into the sound, con-
sequently on tho eastern end of Hinchinbrook Island. The depth ofif the
North point of entrance is very great; no bottom with 100 fathoms could be

• Port Etches derives its name from Richard Cadman Etches, a merchant, who, with
others, enttT«d into a trading partnership (Mny, 178)), under the titio of the Kini?
George's Sound Company, for carrying on the fur trade on this coa'^t, h;iving procured a
licence for this purpose from the South Sea Compvny. Tho voya;?og of Captains Portlock
find Dixon, in the JCinff George and Q.men Charlotte, in and suljsequent to 178j, were vmdei-
taken for thiu company.

2 I 2

4„^ COAST OF ALASKA.

iound within a quarter of a mile of the shore. Off this P-^^ ^^jf^^^
iBlotB. and there are some within the entrance (tl>«/--;-- ^^^'^^ ^f^*^ "^^^
these are past, there is no depth for auchora.e. On the North s^e o th„
port is a lagoon (ConsUnUin. JIarkno-), within winch was a f usB.an -^^
Lhment. on a situation comn^anding the low narrow peninsula, and fomxed
in 1793, when some ship building has boon earned on.

Port Etches was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, in 1 837. In the ace unt of
thrv^-Sfis the following :-'■ This establishment of the Imper.,^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Fur Company consists of the ofRcial resident, eight Russians, and hfty Aleu
tiau and other allies. It is calculated to stand a tolerable s.ege, under de-

%tt1t":ight furnish a most complete harbour, if vessels frequented
these regions, or a station should ever be required xn so h,gh a latitud ^
Th currents however, between it and Montagu Island render xt d.fflcu
of approach ; and the Russian commandant stated that many sunken rod s
bnt'perhaps of 10 or 15 fathoms) lie off Cape Hinchinbrook Cap . Belcher
observations make Vancouver nearly as much in error m longitude as he

^^P^:;S;the N.E. or op.osite extremity of ^V^^^^
is the Russian establishment, is placed by Sir Edward Belcher m lat. 60 21
12" N., long. 146° 50' 15" W; high water, fuU and change, 1" 15 ; rise, 9i

feet: variation, 31° 38' E. . , , . i. * on

HawkinB Island is to the N.E. of Hinchinbrook Island, and is about 20
miles long N.E. and S.W. On its southern side is the channel before
::!::ioned,' w^ch is contracted by the sand-bank on the S.K shore to a
narrow, difficult channel against the southern shore of the island.

On the North side of Hawkins Island is Fort Cordova, an a™ extendmg
from its N.W. point about 13 miles in an easterly direction. Withm these
Umits are a bay and a small branch, in which are several rocks and rocky
islets These shores are in general low, ending in pebbly beaches, where
Bhoal water extends some distance, and renders landing at low tide very un-
pleasant. To the northward is Port aravina. The S.E. point of its entrance
is placed by Vancouver in lat. 60° 41'. . -n .

Snna Corner Ha,, is on the N.W. end of the peninsula, separating Ports
Gravina and Fidalgo. Its West point is in lat. 60' 45'. long. 146° 35'. Capt.
Cook said it was a very snug place.

Port Fidalgo is so named after the Spanish commander who visited it in
1790. It extends in a winding direction to lat. 60" 55'. long. 145° 48' ; itb

• Upon Garden Island Clapt. Belcher found a pine that was marked by I'ortlock, July
22, 1787. and waB very nearly destroying .t.-(nck.her, vol. i, p. I'A.) M prenent the island
is covered with pino trees, without many IracoH of the gar.lcn.

•■ ■ mfl»J um'3^"-t>^ ' i-^--' ^-'-"'■*

rUKrvTO DE VAL1)K>!, ETC.

48,';

lint are some roelcy
M RocliK), and until
North side of the
i a Russian estab
linsula, and formed

In the account of
[8 Imperial Kussian
ans, and fifty Alou-
le siege, under de-

' vessels frequented
BO high a latitude,
d render it difficult
many sunken rocks
•ook. Capt. Belcher's
r in longitude as he

peninsula, on which
Jelcher in lat. 60° 21'
age, IMS"; rise, 9i

md, and is about 20
i the channel before
the S.E. shore to a
bhe island.

a, an arm extending
jction. Within these
veral rocks and rocky
ebbly beaches, where
g at low tide very un-
E. point of its entrance

sula, separating Ports
, long. 146'^ 35'. Capt.

mdor who visited it in
S5', long. 145° 48' ; its.

marked by I'orllock, July
p. TA.) At proBont the island

width being about 2 miles, and its length 2S miles. A small inlet runs in,
2 miles in a N.N.E. direction, at the N.W. point of Port Fidalgo, and
8.8.W. .J \V. 4^ miles from its West point is the South end of Bligh Island.
The shores are also rocky. Bligh Island is 7 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
and some islands off its North end form the southern side of the ontraneo to
Puerto de Valdes.

Puerto de Valdes was so named by Senr. Fidalgo, and e.xtonds N.E. by
N. for 12 miles, where a small brook, supplied by the dissolving snow and
ice, flows into the arm, and from thence extends 5 miles in an East direction
to its termination in shallow water. The port is from half a league to a
league in breadth. Its AVest point is called Point Frmnantle, and is in lat.
60° 57', long. 146° 49'.

Southward of Port Freomantle is an island 7 miles long, in a 8.W. by W.
direction, and a league broad ; within it iw a passage half a league wide.

Westward of the island before mentioned is an arm extending about 4
leagues to the North, and terminating at the foot of a continuation of the
range of lofty mountains. It is, in general, about a league wide, and its
western coast terminates to the South, or Point Pdhw, and from this the
coast takes an irregular direction, about W.S.W. 10 miles toward the East
point of a passage leading northward.

From Point Pellew a channel extends about 3 leagues in length, to the
N.W. h N. This in some places is a mile, and in others not a quarter of a
mile broad ; its West side formed by Esther hland. Four miles North from
its further end is Point Pakenham, which is the S.W. point of Port Wells.
This extends in a N.N.E. direction, and terminated in a firm and compact
body of ice. Hence the coast pursues a southerly direction, 5 leagues to
Point Pigot. The continent is here composed of a stupendous range of snowy
mountains, from whose base low projecting land extends, jutting out into
points, and forming the shores, which are thinly wooded with dwurl' pines
and stunted aldars.

Point Pigot and Point Cochrane, opposite to it, form the entrance to Pasnage.
Canal. The principal branch extends from Point Pigot West 13 miles, and
then S.W. by S. 4 miles further, terminating in lat. GO" 48'- Hero the head
of the inlet reaches within 12 miles of Turnagain Arm, at the head of
Cook Inlet, hereafter described. The isthmus itself is a valley of some
breadth, which, though containing elevated land, was very free Irom .snow
(in June), and appeared to be perfectly easy of access. By it the Eussiaiis,
and Indians also, communicated with either of those extensive sounds. Tlio
other branch extends 2 J leagues W.S.W. from Point Cochrane, which is l.i
mile South from Point Pigot. Eight miles E. by S. from Point Codu-ane is
Point Culross. Off Point Culross in an island about a league from the .shore,
and about 4 miles long ; and following tlje coast soutliward for 6 miles, we
arrive at an opening about 2 miles wide. From tlio South point of tlie

i.l

480

COAST OF ALASKA.

entrance, 1 1 miles along a shore broken into small bays, lined by innumer-
able rocks, and exposed to the whole range of the N.E. swell from the sound,
brings you to Point N(i)ri:U, in lat. 60° 27'.

Between this coast and the ocean aro a considerable number of large islands
which lio generally in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. The coast of the
continent runs, but in a very irregular manner, in the same direction, to Cape
Piifid, in lat. 59" 55', long. 1-18" 3', this being the point where the shores ut'
the main land form the seaward face.

From Point Nowell tlio main coast turns to S.W. ^ S. for about 11 miles,
to a point wliero ^•n arm extends first N.W., and then terminates to tise
South, in a circular basin full of rocks. Boforo this coast is an island, fol-
lowing its direction at '2 miles distant, and ;J.] leagues long, forming a passaj^e
but full of rocks. Five and a half miles S.E. from the South point of the
arm first mentioned, is roint Countess, in lat. 60' la'. To the West is a bay
about l.V miles deep, terminating in a compact body of ice that descended
from high perpendicular clifl's to the water side. The coast southward of
Point Countess forms thcN. W. side of a narrow channel, 1 1 miles in length,
in a S.W. ^ W. direction. The North point of the southern end of this
strait* is Fuint Waters ; it has some rocks and breakers before it. This point
is on the eastern side of Port Bainbridtjc, an inlet from the ocean, extending
18 miles in length from its entrance, in a North direction. From its being
directly open to the ocean, although at this distance from it, the wind, when
it sets up or down the channel, sends such a violent sea upon it, that landing
is dangerous. Point Pi/Ice, on the western side, is 6 miles from Point
Waters. It is remarkable for its sugar-loaf form. S.8.E. 5 miles from
I'oint Pyke, is Point £/riniffun, the south-eastern point of Port Bainbridge,
and the south- westernmost part of a high, rugged cluster of islands. Op-
posite to Point Elringtou is Cape Puget, before mentioned, on the main
land.

The island of which Points Elrington and Pyke form a portion, is high and
rugged, and about 6 leagues in length, in a general N.N.E. direction. £fl-
touche Island lies off its .astern side, separated by a channe" half a league
broad. Its northern point is named Point Grace. Knigld Island lies to tlie
northward of these, and is upwards of 9 leagues in length in the same direc-
tion ; and beyond tins', again, are some others of less dimensions.

Between this and Montagu Island is Grca Island, .so named by Cook, in
May, 1778, from its being entirely free from snow, and covered with wood

* It was in thi.s strait that Vnnponvcr's party f>ncounteie.l a violont Btorm, .luiif, 1701 ;
a very heavy gur-t of w ind brouKlit down from ,i eonsidcraWo hoijrht on the mountain side
an imratnso mass of earth, trees, and frozen snow, which fell at a distance not oxeecding a
hiiudre.1 yards from tho atsenihled party. They obHcrvod in other places the cfiocts of
diiiiilar "toims, which will mtvo as a w^miiax lo any on. on these shori.'s.

d by innumer-
froin the sound,

of large islands

coast of the
roction, to Cojn^
9 the shores of

ibout 11 milos,
minates to tlje
an island, fol-
minga passage
h point of the

1 West is a bay
that descended
; southward of
iiiles in length,
rn end of this
» it. This point
9an, extending
^rom its being
;he wind, when
t, that landing
IS from Point

5 miles from
rt Bainbridge,
' islands. Op-
, on the main

on, ia high and
liroction. Lo-
half a league
md lies to tlie
he same diroc-
3ns.

1 by Cook, in
'ed with wood

nn, .luiif, 17')l ;
fio mountain aicie
J not oxreeding a.
:es the eH'ectfl of

MONTAGir ISLAM).

487

and verdure. The islands near tho open sea are, as before stated, elevated
and rocky; those within are low ones. Off tho North point of Green
Island, a league or a leaguo and a half North, aro some lodges of rocks,
Hiiino above and others under water, making it very unsafe plying in this
uoighbourliood.

MONTAGU ISLAND is the largest and principal island of Prince William
Sound, it being, according to Vancouver's survey, 40 miles in length, from
S.W. by S. to N.E. by N. ; its average breadth is about '2. leagues. Its South
point is in lat. 59" 46', long. 147= 30'. Tho passage on the inside, or to
N.W. of the island, forms an entrance into I'rince William Sound, between
it and Latoucho and Green Islands, of course varying in breadth. At
16 miles from the South end of Montagu Island is Point Bazil, in lati-
tude 60' r.

The two bays, one named by Portlock Ifcmmitui Bay, and the other M'Leod
Harbour, aro stated by Mr. AVhidbey to be very exp(ised anchorages, and
nothing more than stopping places in navigating this channel.

M' Leod Harhour is 5 or 6 leagues within the S.W. point of Montagu Island.
Its outer points, Point Bryant on the South, and I'oint Woodcock on the
North, aro about 2 miles apart, and joined by a bank of 7 or 8 fathoms,
black sand and mud, within which is a depth of 21 to 12 fathoms. Within
it takes a turn to the North, round a point which is quite bold-to, and may
be passed close. A ship can lie in 4 J or 5 fathoms water, with the South
point of tho bay ju.st shut in with this point, at about a cable's length from
the shore. — [Portlock.)

Port Chalmers, on tho West side, and toward the North end of Montagu
Island, is in lat. 60" 16' N., long. 146° 50' E. Vancouver says: — "The place
of our anchoring in Port Chalmers can only bo considered as a small cove,
on a rugged rocky coast, vei-y difficult of access or egress." Stockdale Har-
hour, too, is only a bay full of rocks, and of course not worthy of particular
attention. The shores about Port Chalmers are in general low, and very
ewampy in many places, on which the sea appeared to be making rapid en-
croachments, the romain.s of the forests being seen below high water mark.
Off the entrance to tho harbour are several lurking rocks, which make its
approach very dangerous, as before stated.

The South Passage Rock lies from the North point of the harbour West
somothing less than a mile distant, and from the small woody islet, N. by AV,
J W. about three-quarters of a mile. To tho North of this is the North
Passage Pock, lying from tho North point of the harbour N.N.W. J W. 2.1
miles distant, and W.S.W. three-quarters of a mile from Stockdale Harbour.
These rocks must be carefully avoided, as they are not always visible.

It is high water at Port Chalmers about one hour after the moon passes
the meridian ; the current sets southward, and there is no draught into the

18«

COAST OF ALASKA.

harbour. Springs rise 13 and 14^ feot, the night tides rising above a foot
more than those in tho day.

The strait between Montagu and Green Islands, to the northward of
Port Ohalciers, is embarrassed by a line of sunken rocks, which are very
stoep-fo, affording no indication of their proximity by the lead. As this side
of the island is greatly exposed to the prevailing winds, great caution ouglit
to be observed in navigating near its shores.

From the N.E. point of Montagu Island its shores run compactly to the
S.W. for 31 miles, to a low projecting point covered with wood. Off it lies
a cluster of six rocky islets, chiefly composed of steep cliffs, nearly level on
their toys, which may serve as a direction in thick or gloomy weather to tho
South point of Montagu Island, lying from them S.W. by W. i W. distant
17 miles. They are tolerably well wooded, and are not liable to be mistaken,
particularly for the Chiswell Isles (21 leivgues to the West), because those
appear to be entirely barren. Resurrection Gulf is to the northward of tho
Chiswell Isles.

The Chiswell Isles ar». a group of naked rugged rocks, seemingly destitute
of soil and any kind of vegetation. The centre of the southernmost group
is in lat. 59° 31', long. 149° 2'. From this, the easternmost, which is a single
detached rock, lies N.E. | E. about a league distant; and the northernmost,
which has several less islets and rocks about it, lies N. by E. ^ E. 5 miles
distant.

Jilymg Sound of the Eussians, called by Portlock Port Andrews, lies
within the Chiswell Isles.

To the south-westward of the Chiswell Isles the coast presents a broken
appearance as far as Pie Islands, the South extreme of the southernmost of
which lies in lat. 59" 19', long. 149° 51'. This island, in several points of
view, forms a conspicuous peak, and although not remarkable for its great
height, yet from its singular appearance it is not likely to be mistaken in
this neighbourhood, as it descends with great regularity from its summit to
the water's edge. A group of rocks lying W. by S. i S. 4 miles from it,
must be very dangerous in thick weather, as it is probably covered at high
water, spring tides.

Between Pie Islands and Point Gore, a distance of 18 miles, the coast is
in most parts very mountainous, and descends rather quickly into the
ocean. Point Gore is placed by Vancouver in latitude 59° 1 1', longitude
(corrected) 150° 22'. Towards the sea this projecting promontory termi-
nates in an abrupt cliff, moderately elevated, and is connected to the main
land by a low peninsula covered with trees. To the westward of the point
is Port Dick.

CAPE ELIZABETH is the S.E. point of the mouth of Cook Inlet. It is
placed by Vancouver in lat. 59" 9', long, (corrected) 151° 18'. The coast
here is composed of high land, before which lie three small islands and some

Qg above a foot

lie northward of

which are very

ad. As tills side

3,t caution ouglit

ompactly to the
cod. Off it lies
, nearly level on
Y weather to the
V. i W. distant
etobe mistaken,
;), because those
orthward of the

emingly destitute
ithernmost group
which is a single
le northernmost,
E. ^ E. 5 miles

rrt Andrews, lies

)re8ent8 a broken

sonthernmost of

several points of

;able for its great

be mistaken in

im its summit to

4 miles from it,

covered at high

iles, the coast is
quickly into the
(9° 1 r, longitude
romontory termi-
acted to the main
ward of the point

:!ook Inlet. It is
' 18'. The coast
islands and some

COOK INLET.

isn

rucks. Th(! capo is itself tho largest of those, and the wostornmost of them.
To tho S.W. of the middle isle is a cluster of rocks, both above and below
the water's surface.

Port Chatham, so named by Vancouver from his tender, is situated behind
the island which forms Cape Elizabeth, and from that promontory extends to
a point in a N.E. direction 5 J miles, and from thence it terminates in au
excellent harbour, about 2 miles long from West to East, and 1 broad North
and South, affording secure and convenient anchorage. The passage into it,
passing to tlie N. W. of Cape Elizabeth, is free from all obstructions but such
as are sufficiently conspicuous or easily avoided.

The Chatham anchorage, off an excellent run of water, was found to be
in lat. 69° 14', long. 150° 56'. The rise and fall of the tide, near the change
of the moon, were 14 feet, but during neap tides not more than 10 or 11 feet.
High water about an hour after the moon had passed the meridian ; but
greatly influenced by the form and direction of the winds. The Eussian
establishment, Fort Alexandroffsk, is in a bay to the westward of Port
Chatham.

The EENAY PENINSULA separates the two extensive inlets called Prince
William Sound and Cook Inlet. There were several Eussian establisliments
on its shores, and it is inhabited by a tribe which has given the name,
Konaians, to all the Indians North of the Copper Eivor, and West of the
Eocky Mountains, except the Aleutians and Esquimaux. They are a proud
and fearless race, but are represented by the Eussians and those employed
by the Telegraph Company, as peaceable and well disposed. But they are
always ready to resist any affront or wrong.

COOK INLET.

This extensive arm of the ocean was discovered by Captain Cook, in 1788
but he explored it imperfectly, supposing that it was much more extensive
than it was found to be by Vancouver in 1794. Cook thought that it was the
estuary of a great river, and as he did not name it. Lord Sandwich directed
that it should be called Cook's River ; but when Vancouver penetrated to its
head, he properly called it Cook's Inlet.

Point Bede, so named by Cook, May 26, 1788, is a lofty promontory, and
from this the coast trends N.E. by E., with a chain of mountains inland ex-
tending in the same direction. The land on the coast is woody, and there
seamed to be no deficiency of harbours.

Graham Harbour is 7 miles from Point Bede. The entrance, according
to Portlock's sketch, is between Eussian Point on the South, off which a
roclty shoal dries at half ebb nearly I J mile out, and Coal Bay on the North
4 or 5 miles apart. In the entrance is Passage Island, on either side of which
is an open channel. From this it runs up about 9 miles to the E.S.E., aud

\\%

;' I

jj 8

■I .'f
li .:■■

' i.it.^'tf-: ww^i,';;.i.(:-^:

•100 COAST OF ALASKA.

terminates in a fresh-water river. There are several projecting points on each
Bide of the harbour, that form very good and snug bays, whore a sliip might
if necessary bo liaulod on shore in the greatest safety.

Coal Hay on the North side, to the East of the North point, is a pretty
good one, carrying soundings in 14, 12, and 8 fathoms, fine bhick sand.

Capts. I'ortlock and Dixon landed on the West side of the bay, and in
■walking round discovered two veins of cannel coal, situated near some hills
just by the beach, about the middle of the bay, and with very little trouble
several large pieces were got out of the bank.

The best time to run into this harbour is as near low water as possible.
Whatever danger there is may then bo seen, either from beds of kelp, or the
rocks showing themselves above water.

CHUGACHNIK, or Tschougatschouk Bay, lies to the N.E., anditsN.W.
extremity is Anchor Point, in lat. 59° 39'; and hence, according to Van-
couver's chart, the coast pursues a nearly straight direction 60 miles to the
Kussian establishment, 8 miles to the S.E. of the East Foreland.

The S.W. limit of Cook Inlet may be placed at Cape Douglas, in lat. SS"
62', long. 152'' 51'. The coast hereabout is composed of a low tract of
country, stretching from the base of very lofty mountains, wrapped in snow,
(May, 1794\ Off the cape, a few miles to the northward, lies a very
low flat island, Shaw Island, off the N.E. point of which is a ledge of rocks.
To the northward of the mountains that form the promontory of Cape
Douglas, is a lofty, rugged ridge, firmly connected by land less elevated,
and forming a deep bay between the cape and the lower borders of
Ouchouganat Island, or Mount St. Augustine. The shores of this bay,
Hourdieu Bay, in most directions seem compact, but encumbered with largo
rocks and stones ; the depth of water across it North and South is from 9 to

12 fathoms.

OUCHOUGANAT ISLAND, or Mount St. Augustine, is a very remarkable
island, rising with a uniform ascent from the shores to its lofty summit,
which is nearly perpendicular, to the centre of the island, inclining somewhat
to its eastern side, and being in lat. 69° 22', long. 153° 0'. It is about 9
leagues in circuit, and forms a lofty, uniform, conical mountain, presenting
nearly the same appearance from every point of view. The width of the
passage between it and the main land is about 6 miles.

Advancing northward along the shores of the main land, it will appear
indented and broken into small coves and bays. In lat. 69° 42' are three
islets, against the shore, behind which there is appearance of anchorage and
shelter. There is nothing remarkable on the coast* until we come to the

• The weather now (April 18, 1794), though extremely cold (the mfrcury standing at
■20"), wus very cheerful, and afforded us an excellent view of the surrounding region, com-
posed, at a little distance from the river, of stupendous mountains, whose rugged and ro-

ing points on each
rhtive a ship might

point, is a pretty
e black sand.
' the bay, and in
I near some hillH
very little trouble

water as possible,
eds of kelp, or the

^.E., anditsN.W.
iccording to Van-
a 60 miles to the
eland.

oiiglm, in lat. S8°
of a low tract of

wrapped in snow,
irard, lies a very
s a ledge of rooks.
)montory of Cape
and less elevated,

lower borders of
lores of this bay,
imbered with largo
South is from 9 to

a very remarkable
its lofty summit,
inclining somewhat
0'. It is about 9
auntain, presenting
The width of the

md, it will appear

69° 42' are three

e of anchorage and

til we come to the

mfrciiry standing at
rounding rogion, com-
whose rugged and ro-

COOIv IM.KT,

■III I

ii^rlhward of lat. fin", whore there are two openings, the northern of wliicli
is the principal. It runs to the West, and then y.W. towards the foot of a
fonspiouous volcano, Iliaminsk Peak, 12,066 feet high, which lies in hit. eO'^
0', hmg. 1.52'= ;56'.

From the nioulh of this opening to the West and East Foreland, wliere
the breadth of ("ook Inlet is considerably contracted, the distance is 43 miles,
the distance between its shores at this part being about 30 miles. In the in-
termediate space lies an island, named by the liuswians Coulgiak Julaml,
which divides the inlet here into two channels, the N.W. of whicii is much
encumbered by dangerous and o.\tonsive shoals. The island itself is about
13 miles long, nearly N.E. and S.W., and is narrow. Vancouver landed on
it, on the South point of a shallow bay on its N.W. side, towards its S.W.
extremity. The snow, which was lying very deep on the ground (April 17,
1794), confined their walk to the beach, on which was lodged some small
drift wood, and on it they found some pieces of coal, resembling cannel coal.
The more important part of this island to the navigator is a dangerous shoal
which extends, in its direction from the S.W. end, for the distance of at least
2 leagues. From the great variety of soundings on passing over it, it ap-
pears to be very uneven, as in several instances the ship struck violently on
some detached pieces of rock, so that it is infinitely more dangerous than a
mere spit of sand.

Abreast of the S.W^ point, on the West shore, is Point Harriet, which is
a moderately high steep cliff. Off the point a shoal extends a league off, on
the outer edge of which is only 3 fathoms. To the N.E. of this again, the
channel between the island and the western shore has some extensive shoals.
It is between 6 and 7 miles from the main land, and is near a league from
the West side of the island.

Beyond this the shores of Cook Inlet are comparatively low, or only
moderately elevated, jutting out into three remarkable steep clidy points,
named the East, West, and North Forelands; the two form er forming the
Narrows.

The Went Foreland is in lat. m"" 42', long. \^V 12 , and is about 8J miles
nearly due West from the East Foreland.

A rock, thut is visible only at half tide, lies about the fourth of a mile
from the extremily of the point.

mantic forms, clothed in a perpetual sheet of ice and snow, presented a prospect, thoiij,'h
magnificently grand, yet dreary, cold, and inhospitable. In the midst of these appeared
the volcano, near the summit of which, from two distinct cratere on its south-eastern side,
were omitted large columns of whitish smoke, unless, as was supposed by some on board,
it was vapour arising from hot springs in that neighbourhood ; but how lar this conjecture
was consistent with the severity of the climate at the top of that lofty mountain, is not
wilhiu the limits of my judgment to determine. — Vancouier, vol. iii, p. 100.

K'f'

^in-?®^£ra«*S57iK.T^^E^S5SS!ssi^srsi

,ii

rOAST OF ALASKA.

Hetwepn the West Foreland and the North Foreland, both of wliicli nro
on the weBtern shore, the coast fornos a spacious open bay, culled by I'ortlock
Trading Bay. At the head of this was a Kussian oHtublishmont.

The 8.E. shore eastward of the East Foreland forms a shallow bay, be-
tween it and a point 6 miles N.E. by N. above it, with soundings of 7 and N
fathoms within a convenient distance of the shore, sheltered from the East
and South quarters. Beyond this point, and between it and a point lying 7
miles W.S.W. from Point Possession, a distance of 21 miles, the outer bank
forms a perfect labyrinth of conical rocks, detached from each other on a
bank of sand and small stones, extending a league and a league and a half
from the shore. Those rocks are of different elevations, and few of thom
are of sufficient height to appear above high water level. This very extra-
ordinary rugged region appears to join to the southern side of the shoal on
which Cook's ship, the Hesolutwn, grounded in 1778. This shoal extends
half way over the strait, and its outer end is about 9 miles nearly N. from
the East Foreland.

The North Foreland is in lat. 61° 4', long. 150° 35', and on it Vancouver
found the Russian factory. For 2 leagues to the North of this, along the
western shore, tolerable anchorage is found. But this space is greatly ex-
posed to the East and S.W. winds, the prevalent and most violent in this
country.

Tumagain Island lies at the head of the more extensive part of Cook
Inlet. Its West end is in lat. 61° 8'. It is about 3i miles long, E.N.E.
and W.N.W., and half a league broad. The island lies in the entrance of a
branch diverging from the main inlet in a N.E. direction. Its entrance lies
between Poi7it Mackenzie on the North, and Point Woronzoiv S.W. by S. 2
miles from it. Cook's vessel penetrated this inlet a short distance, but left
its termination undiscovered. Vancouver anchored 5 miles above its entrance
and found that all above him became, at low water, a succession of dry
sand-banks, occupying the whole of the space up to its head, 18 miles further
on, in lat. 61° 29', long. 148° 55'. At high tide it becomes an extensive sheet
of water.

Tumagain Arm. — The southernmost branch is the principal. It was
called by Cook Tumagain River, and by Vancouver Tumagain Arm, he hav-
ing decided its real character. Its entrance lies between Point Campbell,
which is S. by W. J W. 4 miles from Point Woronzow, and Point Possession on
the southern shore. At 14 or 16 miles above these the shores converge again,
up to which points they are 3 or 4 leagues asunder, but they cannot be ap-
proached on account of the shallow flat.

The tide here rises 13 feet perpendicularly, so that at low water the re-
maining portion of the arm is dry, or nearly so. It extends 22 miles above
these points, and thus approaches to within 4 leagues of the head of Passage
Canal, in the N.W. part of Prince William Sound, described on page 482.

"Hi

TIIK KODIAK AJl(;iIIl'i:i,A(i(».

th of which nro
tiled by I'orthMk
lent.

hallow bay, be-
(liugB of 7 anJ H
1 from tho East
1 a point lying 7
I, the outer bank
each other on a
igue and a half
md few of thorn
Chis very extra-

of the shoal on
la shoal extends

nearly N. from

5n it Vancouver
? this, along the
ce is greatly ex-
ist violent in this

ve part of Cook
es long, E.N.E.
he entrance of a

Its entrance lies
p S.W. by S. 2
iistance, but left
,bove its entrance
iuccession of dry

18 miles further
n extensive sheet

incipal. It was
in Arm, he hav-
Point Camphell,
^oint Possession on
3 converge again,
y cannot be ap-

w water the re-
1 22 miles above
head of Passage
led on page 482.

Across this isthmus tho liussians and Indians communicato with thoso two
oxtonsivo inland waters, as thero mentioned.

Tho timt) of high water in the N.E. arm is about hix hours 'after tlio
moon passes tho meridian, and tho rise and fall at springs is (>stimutod
at about 27 fuut.

THE KODI \TS. ARCHIPELAGO.

The KODIAK AECHIPELAGO was first seen by 13ohrin}r, on his voyago
of discovery, on returning from tho American coast, in \1\\. Thoy wero
seen in 176;{ by the Itussian merchant Glotoff. In 17G8 ChelighoCi' took
possession of them in the name of a company of merchants for tlie trado in
furs, of which ho was tho chiof; and, in r,99, they were granted in full
possession to the Russian American Company.

The archipelago is composed of two principal islets, Kodiak and Afognak,
and several smaller islets in their neighbourhood.

Kodiak (or Cadiak, as it is called by Lisiansky) is very mountainous, and
surrounded by deep bays, into which a number of docp rivers fall. Tho
country is in general too elevated for settlement, and is, besides, ^for the
greater part of the year, covered with snow. Tho climate is by no means
agreeable ; the air is seldom clour, and oven in summer thero are few days
which may be called warm; the weather, indeed, depends entirely on the
winds ; so long as they continue to blow from the North, tho West, or the
South quarter, it is fine ; when from other points of the compass, fogs, d mps
and rain are sure to prevail. The winters very much resemble what is felt
in Russia in a bad autuoxn, which is, however, not without exceptions.

The native animals are few, consisting of bears, foxes, ermines, &c. Birds
are much more numerous, both in numbers and variety, Kodiak also
abounds in fish, which are haUbut, cod, flounders, &c., and salmon, which
last come into the rivers, from May to October, in great abundance. The
marine animals were formerly much more numerous, but from the indis-
criminate slaughter they have been much thinned. Fur seals were formerly
one of the staple products of the group. But the article for which it is now
best known is ice, which is carefully prepared for the Californian and other
markets in the bay of St. Paul.

The population is small, compared with the size of *he islands ; they were
estimated at a total of 4,000 by Lisiansky, in 1805. It was stated that, pre-
vious to the arrival of the Russians, it was more than double this. Cheli-
ghoff stated that he subjected 50,000 -ien to the crown of Russia, which is
manifestly an exaggeration. They are a family of the Aleutians, resembling,
an many respects, the Southern Esquimaux. They are generally kind and
well disposed, and not entirely wanting iu industry. By the.introduction of

I ;i

'ih

i!;f

^^^S t^^i!^^7'M'&^4m -''X^^Rir^ rl -:- -^!>k i ^'^ ^»^i''^^^ ^

4'.t4

COAST OF ALASKA.

HohooU and eliurches atnonijf them, tlie KuKHians bare done much towrnNl
reducing thorn to a stiito of civili/ation.*

KODIAK, as hoforo statod, is lii«li, hilly, nnd vory murh intorsocted. Its
proatoHt diumotor ia aliout JtO loin,ni(i8 in ii N.H, and H.\V. dirfitioii, mid iis
hreadth nmy he UHHunit'd ns lo Iimi^uoh. 'I'lio Hlinro, on all sides of tlio
island, is indented with a groat numhor of largo and deep hays, which (•(oi-
tain excellent harhours. That of ( 'hiuiatskoy is the largest, and at the sain.,
time the most important ; for it is in the bottom of this hay tlial tlio I'stnl.-
lishment of tho Kussian-Amorican (^nnpany, formerly tho jjriiitipal in tlio
Pacifio Ocean, lies. Tiiis is the town and harbour of St. I'aul. It is, tliprc-
fore, the only port frociuonted by strangers, and wo shall bo more particuhir
in its dfcscription.

CHINIATSKOY BAY is formed by tho capo of that name on tho Soutii,
and Long or Barren (Sterile) Island on tho North, an opening of 8 miles in
a N. J W. and S. J E. direction. It is G miles deep, and its S.W. portion
is filled with rocks.

The frequent and lasting fogs which occur here would render the approacli
to this bay vory dilficult, if it were not for tho island named Ougak, lying
15 miles South of Cape Chiniatskoy, and 'JJ miles from th.i land. This
being the only island on the Eost coast to the South of the bay, it becomes
an infallible point of recognizance on approaching it.

The Haxbour of St. Paul is excellent in every respect ; the depth 5, C,
and 7 fathoms, good holding gr.Mind. Properly speaking, it is a narrow
channel, formed by Proche Island, which will hold but few vessels at a time.
The outer road is equally well sheltered and secure. Captain Golownin's
directions follow.

The port of St. Paul has two entrances ; one from the South, by the Bay
of Chiniatskoy ; the other, from the North, passes through the outer road.
Neither are dangerous if the wind be favourable, and tne weather sufficiently
clear to distinguish tho shores around the port ; but it should not bo ap-
proached during the night or in fog, for there are no lights, and the currents
may carry you easily on to the shoals and rocks, which are abundant on all

sides.

As soon as you have cleared Oape Chiniatskoy, you find before you a rock
called (jorhun ; ster N. IF. i IF. or jV. W. J JF., true, and you will soon see
ahead a small high island, Toporkowa, upon which you must bo careful to
direct your course. This island will show you the direction of the current ;

• Many particulars of tho group, in addition to those contained in the occounts of tlio
Eussian discovery hy Dr. Coxe, and Piillas, will be found in Lisiansky's Voyage, chapter x.
p. 190 et seq. ; Billing's Voyage, l.y Martin Sauer; Langsdorff's Travels; Cook's Third
Voyage, vol. iii. ; and Vancouver's Voyage, vol. iii. These will give a good idea of the
condition and resources of this inhospitable country.

Dne much towntil

intorROcted. Its
ilii'('< tioii, mill its
all Hult's of tilt)
hayH, wliicli (mhi-
, and ut the Hniiio
ly tliiit tlio I'stnli-
) Ijriiicipnl in tlio
uul. It is, tliPii'-
nioro particular

no on tho Snuth,

ing of 8 milos in

its H.W. portion

ider the nppmach

led Ougak, lyin^

th<) laud. TluH

B bay, it becomes

i tho depth 5, fi,

5, it is a narrow

vessels at a time.

ptain Golownin's

nuth, by tho Bay
h the outer road,
cathor sufficioutly
hould not bo ap-
, and the currents
3 abundant on all

before you a rock
you will soon see
aust bo careful to
n of the current ;

the accounts of tlio
's Voyage, chapter x.
ravels ; Cook's Thinl
} a good idea of the

IIAIMKirn Ol- ST l-Ali. ^,,.

steer right upon it, leaving to starboard H„rmi /./„,„/, and thrn tho
channel which srparatns it from an-.ther .aHrd // Wy A/,,/,,/. When al>r.>aMt
of tho South point of the latter, which may bo r.'.i.lily known by tho rockn
surrounding it. b.mr to tho Nortli, ranging along tho western shore of W.uMly
Lsio as nour as possibio, paying attrntiou to tlio soundings, wliirh .liminish
rogularly on either sido up to tho entrance of the port. Following these
directions, if the wind be not .•ontrnry, and carrying short sail, you may
pass, without a pilot, the shoals on tho western sido near two isles, and rea.h
the ontraneo of tht^ port.

If, after passing along the West coast of Woody IhIo, tho wind or other
obstacles prevent an advance, you may anchor in perfect security until tlio
weather becomes more favourable. In case a vessel may have entered the
bay, and tho wind will not allow her to follow the foregoing route, and it
is absolutely necessary that she should reach tho port, she will find a good
shelter very near Strep Cape, on tho western sido of the bay. In this .caso,
after noaring the Gorbun Eock, run directly for tiiis cape, or to W. J N ]
until a remarkable jutting point bears W.N.W. ; it is readily distinguished
on this low coast by its elevation, and its peaked form. As soon as Steep
Capo is passed, change the course towards the starboard, to anchor under
Toporkowa Island, from whence you may readily reach tho harbour, either
imder sail or by towing.

To enter tho Harbour of St. Paul by tho southern passage, steer for Cape
Pine ; then, being near to this cape, which ought to bear N.W., distant a
mile or half a mile, run into tho middle of the channel between Kodiak and
AVoody Isle, carefully observing n^c to go into less than 18 or 20 fathoms
depth, steering directly for the islands before mentioned, and to the West
of Woody Isle, until the town of St. Paul is seen ; you may then enter the
port itself, or rather anchor in the outer road. The best anchorage is under
Woody Isle, in 13, 14, or 15 fathoms, sand. Nearer the port the bottom ia
of mud, but here you are not so well sheltered as under Woody Isle.

If you wish to enter the port under sail, you must take care of the con-
trary current, or have good cables ; the breadth of the harbour not allowing
you to bear up, you must drop anchor when under way. In the summer it
would be better to anchor in the road, mooring in the direction of the tides
the flood running to N.E. and the ebb to S.W. The starboard anchor
ought to be laid towards S.W., and tho port N.E., having an open hawse
for N.W. and West winds, which blow strongly and in gusts. The tides
change regularly every six hours.*

'l!f:

* The ico company before alluded to was at .San Francisco, and they leased from tho
Ku8.sian-American Company tho privilege of obtaining ice from St. Paul's. This concession
was the subject of a special clause in the treaty, and there is no doubt but that the place
will be fully utilized by the now proprietors for such an essential article. The ice was cut

■?iiiji*'l;J!St:^*ii;i^',yc;/Jf!!,^(''L'..H^:~- k'. ^!^'^ivi^v-i,'■li^'.^;,F',:■ ,,'J.' .i-^_

40G

COAST OF ALASKA.

Igatskoy or IghahM liay.—'^o the South of Cape Orevillo, or Tolstov
(great) is Cape Tonkoy (small) of the Eussian charts. It forms the N.E.
point of Igatskoy, Igahhi, or Ihah Bay, a deep inlet of 16 miles to the West.
but only 2^ miles in breadth. There are some good harbours in it, especially
one lying in the S.W. part of it. In the bay the Eussian-American Com-
pany had an establishment. In entering the bay keep close to the South
shore, the North is bestrewed with rocks.

Twelve miles to the South from Igatskoy Bay is Kiloudenskoy or KiMen
Bay, where the company also have an establishment. It is properly com-
posed of two bays, either of which afford shelter.

In the S.E. part of Kodiak, to the South of the last-named bay, lies
Saltchidak or Siachladak Island, which is nearly 20 miles broad S.W. and
N.E. Cape Barnabas of Cook is the N.E. point of this island.

Two-headed Point is on a small island, at 8 miles S.W. by W. i W. from
the S.W. point of Saltchidak Island, and is the northernmost of four isles
that must be doubled before entering the Port of the Epiphany. Epiphany
Bay is small, only a mile in circumference, and 60 yards in the opening.
The depth is 10, 8, 7, and 4^ fathoms, muddy bottom.

The southern point of Kodiak wasllcalled by Cook Cape Trinity. At Hi
miles S. of Cape Trinity lie two isles, named by Cook Trinity Isles ; they are so
close together that they might almost be considered as one island ; together
they are 13 leagues in length, East and West, and 2 or 3 leagues from the
coast. On the Eussian charts the eastern is called Sitchunak ; the western,
Tugidak.

To the North of Cape Trinity is Alitok Bay, where the company have an
establishment; the westernmost point of Kodiak, Cape Ykolik, in 57° 14' N.,
lies N.N.W. i W. 38 miles from Cape Trinity ; and at 18 miles N.E. of it is
the company's establishment, named Karlouk. It is from here that the
baidares destined for the opposite shore depart, the strait of Chelighoff being
narrowest here.

At 12 miles to the North of Karluk is Ooujak or Ohiak Bay. It is a deep
indentation, extending 27 miles in a S.S.E. f E. direction, the distance be-
tween its head and that of Kiludenskoy Bay, on the opposite side of Kodiak
being only 8 miles.

The N.W. point of Kodiak is in about lat. 57° 28', and 2 miles] from this
point lies the extreme of North Island, which extends 15 miles N.N.W. and
E.N.E. This is separated by a narrow channel from Afognak isle.

The northern coast of Kodiak, North Island, and the South part of

from an artificial lake, which had an area of about 40 acre. . The labourers wtre all nativis
of the Aleutian Islands, and wore principally engaged for three or four months of wiiitci-
while the ice is firm, in cutting it up and storing it for suu' onsuniption. Fiuiii this it

was exported to every part of the Pacific.

3 Orevillo, or Tol8to^-
I, It forms the N.E.
16 milos to tho West,
irbonrs in it, especially
ussian-American Coni-
eep close to the Soutli

Kiloudenskoy or Kiluden
It is properly com-

3 last-named bay, lios
niles broad S.W. and
3 island.

.W. by W. i W. from
hemmost of four isles
3 Epiphany. Upiphany
yards in the opening.
1.

Cape Trinitij. At 11 J
yinity hies ; they are so
as one island ; together
! or 3 leagues from the
Sitchmak ; the western,

CHELIOnOFP^ STRAIT. -i-):

Afognak, form a channel 20 miles long and 2 wide, in wliieh 10 to 20 f,i-
thoms water is found.

Chelighoff or Chelekhoff Strait.— Cook called tho North entrance of ( ho-
lighoff Strait Smoky Bay. It separates Kodiak from the (;on;iiiout Noriii of
the peninsula of Aliaska, and derives its name from tho Iliissiim com-
mander wlio first brought the inliabitants of the adjoining countrio,-; uud.nr
subjection.

In 1832 it was examined and surveyed by Mr. Wassilieii", an offloar of (lie
Russian navy, in the service of the Eussian-Amorioan Company. Th)>
sliowed that tho strait is narrower than was at fir.'st sujiposod.

Cape Douglas, which has been before described, is tha north-wort limit
of tho strait. A great number of bays appear to olfor good shelter ; that
called Pomlo, in lat. 47° 46', long. 155" 0' W., is 5 miles distant from
the great lake Nanouantoughat, from which the River Ougagoiik flows. Tiiis
river has been adopted by Krusenstern as the northern limil: of the penin-
sula of Aliaska.

The coast of the Peninsula beyond this is described m the next Chapter,
with those of the Sea of Behring which it encloses.

3 the company have an
pe Ykolilc, in 57° 14' N.,
at 18 miles N.E. of it is
is from here that the
trait of Chelighoff being

Ohiak Bay. It is a deep
•ection, the distance be-
opposite side of Kodiak

', and 2 miles" from this
Is 15 miles N.N.W. and
a Afognak isle,
and the South part of

L'ho labourers were all nativis

irpo or four months of wiiitci-

onsumption. Fiuni thiH it

NoHh Paeijic.

2 K

'' 4<t8 )

CII AFTER TX.

THE ALEUTIAN ISLAND??, BETIRTNO SEA.

The oxtwssivo and imU-'nimt wea, whoMft eastern chores and islands are
described i* th« present cb vptor, derives it* name from the celebrated navi-
gator who lirst sailed ia it, and made known to Europe the real character of
the extroraitios of the Now and Old Worlds.

Tho appellation of the Hoa of Beliring was lirst and justly applied to it bj'
Captain Oolownin. This replaced those by which it had been improperly
designated, such as the Sea of Otters (Bobrovo^o)* ^^ ^^^ o^ Kamtschatka,
of Aliaska, or the AJoutian Sea.

The new Oovornnifnt of tho IJnitod States may do nsmething to dovelopo
its rosourcee, which hitherto have been confined to a few fur-trading post-^
of tho Russian-American Company, and therefore there has been but little
inducement for a more minute examination of its shores than that given in
the impt'rfoct charts drawn up by Liitko and others. But the United States'
whale fishery in this sea, as presently mentioned, has afforded, in former
years, a most lucrative occupation for a large fleet. A brief account of the
progress of our knowledge of this distant region will also shew the degree of
authenticity our d*«cription8 may claim.

The Jiussian C^i^r, Peter tlie Groat, to whom the possession of tho half of
a gi'eat contiuerit still seemed not sufficient, drew up with his own hand,
shortly tofore his death, the instructions for a voyage whoso object was to
ascertw-n whether Asia wa« separated from America by a strait, and then to
extend ti*e Kussian dotnmion beyond such a limit, should nature have thus
marked it

But m. tfee distant i^gions cf this vast empire there were no moans by
which MMh «• espioratory vo|^'«ge could be organized. They were therefore
sent from ]RaMia. Titun B«t»M£- and Alexoi Tschirikoff wore chosen by the
Empress Oaititieriue to execute tkis part of tlie will of her groat partner and
jjpodeoeii«or hi j^wwr The two abi^s d«itined for thi.s expedition were con-

w?jiini»

EA.

■■d i inlands aro
celebrated navi-
reai character of

applied to it by
been improperly
)f Kamtschatka,

king to dovelopo
ur-trading post'^
3 been but little
m that given in
le United States'
irded, in former
f actcount of the
ew the degree of

•n of the half of
I his own hand,
80 object was to
Tait, and then to
lature have thus

rs no moans by
ey were therefore
)re chosen by the
roat partner and
dition were con-

TIIE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, LTf. m

strueted at Kamtschatka, the first of tlieir kind tliat hud boon soon in this
tlie extremity of a land thon scarfoly known. They did not set sail from tiio
mouth of tho Kamtschatka Itivcr until July 2()th, 1728. Bchriiig sliapcd
his course to tho N.E., novor h).si!ig siglii; of tho Asiatic coaft. On August
15th he readied lat. 07^ 18' N., at a point (now Capo Sordze Kanun) wlioro
tho const turned to tho westward, from which ho returned to the jx.rt wlwrn-.o
he sailed, witliout having seen the American coa.st. lie had thus entered
tho Icy Ocean without knowing it; lie hud f.olved tho great probl(-m, and
posterity has imposed tho name of Eohriijg upou this strait ; tho reality sup-
plying the iilace of tho fabulous Strait of Anian.

Lb'n-ing and Tschirikoff made a second voyage in 1729, but it yielded no
new inf(.vmation.

A third time did the same commanders .set sail from Kamt.schatka, Juno
4th, 1741 ; this time with tho intention of making the American continent to
the eastward. Boliring then sailed through tho chain of islands skirting the
great peninsula of Aliaska. On August 29th ho anchored at the Schumagin
Islands. lu tho course of the next mouth he discovered part of the Aleutian
Islands Hy this time the commander was ill and decaying. The greatest
part of tho crow, too, wore attacked by that frightful disease, 8curv3^

Belu-ing's .ships and crew were reduced to the greatest distress by the
weather and sufferings they encountered. Worn out with those, they made
for the island now bearing his name ; but tho ship was stranded. On Nov.
9th the captain himself was brought on shore on a hand-ban-ow, and died
,TJ December 8th, 1741. " He was a Dane by birth, and had in his youth
luaae voyages to tho East and West Indies, when the glorious example of
thfi immortal Emperor Peter the Great for marine tempted him to seek hia
fortune in Euasia. It is a pity that it was his fate to end hia life in such an
unfortunate maaner. He may be said to have boon buried half alive, for
the sand rolling down occasionally from the side of the ditch in which he lay,
and covering his feet, ho at last would not suffer it to be removed, and said
that he felt some warmth I'rom it, which otherwise he should wp^nt in the
remaining parts of his body, and thus the cand increased to his belly ; so
that, after his decease, they were obliged to scrape iiim out of the ground, in
order to inter him in a proper manner." — (MiiUer.)

Tschirikoff's voyage was less unfortunate than his commander's; but he
scarcely had fewer hardships. He returned to Eussia, after having explored
part of the American coast.

Such was tho success oi the nrst Eussi«,n expeditions. They were followed
at intervals by many others, among which the names of Glotofl', Synd,
Krenitzin, and Levacheff, stand most conspicuous.

Our great navigator, James Cook, entered the Icy Ocean, and ascertained
tho exact nature of the continental separation first traversed by Behring in
August, 1778 ; and his seiiund in comniand, Captain Gierke, after his sad
i 2 K 2

*9BK^^55SSr8BW

\%W*''i3lB®»;**rlSB?Sa!

"~i!fr?'^, ■■ '''

;100 BinililNU SKA.

cataMropho at, TTnwaii, af;ain iMMiotvatcd to th.' icy barrim- in July, 1770.
The abortive Kussian ExpeditiDii under (Jomiuodoro Jowoph Billings, an
Englishman, made by order of tlio Emprosa Oathcrino IT., hi 1785 to 1791,
did not penotrato tho strait, one great object of the expedition, after havinp;
traversed the Sua of Behring. In 1817 Captain Otto von Kotzobuo ex-
amined and named most of the points on the American coast of Behring

Straits.

The Asiatic coast, from East Capo to Kamtschatka, is amply doscribed
from the admirable survey and examinations of Itoar-Admiral E- deric
Liitke. In 1826 the Russian corvottos, the 3folkr, Capt. Stauikowitch, and
the Seniavine, under Capt. Liitke, were despatched to these seas, and ex-
amined almost the whole of the western shores, and to the account of this
voj'ago we owe our doscriptionn.

To our own country we are indebted for the accurate knowledge we pos-
sess of the American shores. This is from the memorable voyage of H.M.S.
Blossom, under Admiral F. W. Beechey, who minutely surveyed the eastern
shores of tho strait in 1820-7.

The vessels employed in tho Arctic searching expoditioas in 1840-54, in
quest of iutelligence of the party under Sir John Franklin, added soraetlung
to our knowledge of the Aleutian Islands and the northern harbours.
H.M.S. Jlcrald, under Captain (now Admiral) Kellett, the Flonr, under
ComDaaudar Moore, and the expedition in the Enterprise and hmstigator,
under Captain (now Admiral) E, Collinson, in 1850, with others, may be
specially noticed. But the account of the progress of these noble efforts bo-
long to other subjects.

Tho latest expedition to this remote land is proba1.«ly the moKt wonderful of
all in its origin. Before the solutioix of the groat problem solved by the suc-
cessful laying of the Atlantic Electric Telegraph Cable, in the summer of
1867. the importance of telegraphic communication between America and
Europe, led to tho project started by Mr. P. D. Collins, of an overland con-
nexion from San Francisco, across Behring Strait, and thence through the
Russian empire to Western Europe. In 1805 the Western Union Telegraph
Company of America, the largest corporation of its kind in existence, com-
menced the explorations of the proposed line, which was to go from the
Eraser River to the upper course of tho Yukon River, thence down its course to
Norton Bay ; thence across to the Asiatic shore, dovrn which it was to be
carried to the mouth of the Amoor River, to which the Russian Government
have completed their telegraph system. This gigantic undertaking was
placed under the command of Colonel Bulkley, U.S. army, and employed
several hundred explorers for nearly 2^ years, who examined 6,000 miles of
country on both sides of the Pacific, and constructed a largo portion of the
line. When the intelligenco reached the parties of the success of the
Atlantic cable, tliis grand enterprise was at once abandoned, after an ex-

' ''sa^(0M. "

nsdi

THE PENINSULA OF ATJASKA.

.W]

in July, 177!t.
})h Billings, an
n 1785 to 179-4,
)n, after liaviii!.',
n Kotzobuo ex-
joaat of Behring

amply doscribod
dmirul F? derio
uuikowituh, and
36 aeas, and ex-
account of this

jwledge wo poR-
oyage of H.M.S.
oyed tlio eastern

]s in 1810-54, in
added soraetliing
tliern harbours.
10 Plover, under
and Incedigator,
others, may be
noble efforts be-

noKt wonderful of
olved by the suc-
1 the summer of
sen America and
an overland con-
once through the
Union Telegraph
ti existoncG, com-
3 to go from the
down its course to
ich it was to be
isiau Government
undertaking was
oy, and employed
ed 6,000 miles of
go portion of the
le success of the
ned, after an ex-

ponditure of three millionH sterling. The narrative of Mr. Frodk. Whympor,
wild was attached to tlie Yukon party, is one of the most interesting wurk»
on the Pacilic, and has been before quoted in this work.*

The ichale fii^herii, as before stated, is a very important f(>atiiro of tliesA
Arctic Seas. All the early voyagero speak of the vast abundunco of tish of
all varieties, and specially of the whale. But it does not appear that this fact
was much utilized till California came in the ascendant, when Captain BoyN,
in his ship ISupirior, penetrated the Arctic Ocean through Behring Strait,
in the summer of 1848. In that and the following two years M/w himdrt'd
whalo ships came here, and brought home oil and whalebone worth nearly
17.1 millions of dollars. Such a vast result could not be obtained for a series
of years, but still the tishorios of cod, halibut, salmon, as well as of the
whale, are of the greatest value.

Of the people and other subjects a few words will be given hereafter. But
it may be premised that the geograph il descriptions are iniperleet, and
cannot be trusted in ti.«» same degree as ttiose which precede this, but tliis
is of the loss importance, as these seas are rarely traversed except by those
who are more or less intimute with its navigation.

The PENINSULA of ALIASKA separates Behring Sea from tiio Pacific.
It is a remarkable tongue of land extending from the River Ougagouk,
mentioned on page 497, to tho Strait of Isanotzky. separating it from
Ounimak, the easternmost of the Aleutian Archipelago, an extent of .'530
miles ; its breadth diminishing from 90 miles in the North to 25 niih-s in the
southern parts. Its name (signifying "the land") has been applied by tbe
Americans to the whole of their new territory.

From its configuration it maybe regarded as a continuation of the Aleutian
Islands. The first authentic notice of its shores was that given in the account
of the third and disastrous voyage of Captain Cook, who examined, though
but very slightly, both sides of tho peninsula at different points. The southern
side remained in the same imperfect state until tho examination, proviously
noticed, by Capt. WassiliefFin 18;V2. Its northern side, of which we shall
speak hereafter, is somewhat better known.

From the Bay of I'uualo, the north-eastern limit of tho peninsula noticed
above, Capt. Wassihetf 's examination extended to a large bay in lat. 56° 40',
and abreast of the Evdokeeff Islands. This bay has l)een named WasHiUeJf
iiaxj. The eipace between Poualo Bay and this point contains a gi-eat num
ber of bays, and all along the coast are numerous islands, of which we have
no especial description.

The Evdokeeff Islands were discovered by Behring on August 4tb, tT4I,
and named by him in iiouour ot tho saint of tho day. They form « group

i ;

! I

* Travel and Adventure in ihtTt'iriliiry otAliaska, in-., by P'retlciiik VVhympci', London,
1SG8.

;"f1!aK!SS.»''!'.UfSSite---.'f!5Kt-»tfe' -

' _w^..^ - ^,^,,-^-U—

502 ALIASKA PENINSULA.

of seven islandH, the throe largest of which are called Simidin, Alexinoij, an.l
Agcach Capt Golowniu detormiaed the position of the southernmost island
of the group as lat. 56" 0' N., long. 156" 22' W.

A rock is marked on the charts to the S.AV. of the Island of Simidm, m
lat 55" 50' ; evidently a different position to those recorded by Cook as
having been seen June 16, 1778, a cluster of smaU islets, or rocks, lying
about 9 leagues from the coast, which would be in about lat. 56^ 3, and

long. 158° O'W. , ,. V 1

St Stephen Idand, of smaU extent, is supposed to have been discovered

and thus named by Behring. Krusenstern places it in lat. 56= !«' N-, lo^g-

155= 30'. There is some confusion here respecting the discoveries of Behring,

Tschirikoff, and Cook.

Oukamok or Tschirikoff Hand was probably discovered by Vancouver,
April 4th, 1794, and named by him after the companion of Behring. It ap-
peared to form a somewhat irregular, four-sided figure, about 10 leagues in
circuit, having from its western part, which is low and flat, and which had
the appearance of being insular, a remarkably high, flat, square rock, lying
in a direction S. 66° W., at the distance of 2 miles, between which and the
island is a ledge of smaller rocks. Its S.E. parts, consisting of high, steep
cliffs; but on its western side, which is considerably lower, this appearance

was not so general. * ■-, ^^

SCHUMAGIN ISLANDS.— This group, which is the next considerable
collection We>st of the Evdokceff group, according to Captain Liitke, is com-
posed of fifteen inlands, and se.cn smaUer islets. They received the name
of Schumagin (Choumaguine) from Behring, in memory of one of his sailors
who was burled here. The two largest islands of the group are Omga and
Nagaij. The first extends 12 leagues from North to South, with a breadth of
7 leagues; its northern extremity in lat. 55^^ 42'. Nagay Island, with a
similar direction, is 8 leagues in length. Besides the Ounga and Nagay
Islands, Sarytscheff names those of Kagai, Sajouliucktusigh, Nuinak, 2agh-
Kiniagh, and Kimviuinmag ; !iU these, and several oth.u-s not named, lie very
close together. Kagay Island, according to Sarytscheff, ought to be placed
in lat. 55" 5' N., long. 160" 33' W. The state of our knowledge respecting
this group may bu summed up in a few words,— it is very imperfect and un-
satisfactory. There Is no apparent analogy between the remarks of any two
observers. Under tht'so circumstances we shall confine our extracts to that
of the Onnga Island, on account of the fact of coal existing on it.

Otmga is the largest of all, and the westernmost of the group. Accord-
ing to the observations of mpanoff, of the Eusslan Company, its North
extreme is in lat. r,o^ 37', that of its South |«irt, 55^ U', and its length about
26 miles. Its breadth is about half its lengrn. This Island is mountainous
and cliffy, particularly on its South coast, but the N.W. side extends in a
plain which t. iTumates in the low cape caUed Tonko. . The island hab thro

SCnUMAOTN ISLANDS.

50,3

in, Aleximy, and
thernmost island

id of Simidin, in
•ded by Cook as
, or rocks, lying
Lt lat. 56' 3', and

been discovered

56° 10' N., long.

series of Behring,

d by Vancouver,
Behring. It ap-
out 10 leagues in
t, and which had
quare rock, lying
3n which and the
ng of high, steep
', this appearance

next considerable
ain Liitke, is com-
oceived the name
f one of his sailors
up are Oimga and

with a breadth of
ly Island, with a
)unga and Nagay
gh, Nuinali, Tagh-
lot named, lie very
lught to bo placed
iwledge respecting

imperfect and un-
•emarks of any two
ir extracts to that
g on it.

group. Accnrd-
ompany, its North
,nd its length about
nd is mountainous

side extends in a
Dhe island has thi* '

bays; the largest, Zakharovskaia, is on the N.E. sido; it is open to the N.E.,
but the anclioragos may bo kept ; Iicre tho vessels of the company formerly
■wintered. Tho second, on flio East side, penetrates coiiKi(]era])ly into tho
land, but it has but very little water. On this bay stands a village, called
by tho Russians Dclarovikoi, and by the Aleutos, Ougnagak. Tho tliird is
on the South coast.

On the West side of Zakharovskaia Bay, there are, in two places, some
beds of coal, arranged in perfectly horizontal strata, at 100 yards above tlio
level of the sea. They have l)oen worked.*

Between the Schumagin Islands and tho western extremity of Al.iska, tlu;
coast is bordered with a largo number of small islands. Admiral SarytschelF,
wile passed hero, says in his journal that eight of them, of which ho gives
tho uames, are larger than the rest.

Nanimah Island, nearly tho westernmost, is 4 leagues to the North of
Sannagh (presently described). To the S.E. of it lie a quantity of small
islets and rocks above water. Animak, or lleimleer Island, lies G miles to
the North of Nanimak. To the S.E. and East of this island there is a
group of rocks and islets similar to those i)r()jocting to the S.E. from Nu-
nimak Island. Lialiuskigh lies to the N.E. of Animak, at the distance of
14 miles.

Two islands, without namnB, lio at the distance of 3 miles from this; one
to tho North, the other to tho N.E. Kuvgdogh lies to the East, 2 miles off
from the fifth island. Kitagotagh lies to the E.S.E., at tho distance of 3
miles from the last-named island. Ounatcliogh, 2 miles to the N E. of the
preceding ; between these two last there is a high and pointed rock.

Cook passed these islands June 20th, 1778, and estimated their distance
from the coast at 7 leagues. Opposite to Ounatchogh Island, on the coast of
Ahaska, is a very lofty volcano, the summit of which fell, in 1786, during
an eruption. It is, perhaps, tho same mountain that Cool; iaw omitting
smoke.

Sannak. — Sannagh, or Halibut Island, which is tho westernmost of those
on the coast of Alaska, received its last name from Cook, on account of a
great take of that fish. It is separated from the coast by a channel 4
leagues in breadth. " This island is 7 or 8 leagues in circuit, and, except
tho head, the land of it is low and very barren. Tlxere are several sjuall
islands near it, all of the same appearance ; but there seemed to be u passage
between them and the main, 2 or 3 leagues broad."— (Cook.) Halibut Head
is a round hill in the centre.

■

* The coal is a lignito of poor (luiility and )iot abundant. Tbo seams havo been woikul,
;ind the produce used on board the Uu.SHian-Ameriean Company's steamers, but not to any
fireat extent. Tho place won visited by the United States' Telegraph Jixpeditiou in 186.5. —
^f>■. F. Whijmper.

»i^ii>'«iSiBM0s?*^i^®^''*5S&l9SEiW'.'iiaiia^

.^i4t?^?g"'

r,ni ALEUTIAN AliClilPELAOC).

The STRAIT of ISANOTSKOY, Hcparating Alianka from tlio Aloutinii
Islands, was known to exi«t prior to 1708. It not only soparates Alaska
from Ounimak, but it divides tho latter from IMiin Inland, lying 3 J miles
South of the 8.W. point of Aliaska. Tho njiper or northern part of the
strait extends for 12 miles N. \ W. and S. i E. ; its breadth does not any-
where exceed 4 miles. At its northern extremity, that is, between Alaska
and tho N.E. point of Ounimak (behind which lies Krenitzin T.ay), tho
strait is not more than 2 miles broad ; and moreover is obstructed by a large
number of banks. Tho N.W. entrance of this strait is extremely dimcnlt,
on account of tho sand-banks and currents which are felt during tho ebb and
flood tides. That to tho S.E. is very much easier, and tho soundings do not
give less than 4 J fathoms ; but we have no authentic particulars of it.

The lower part of the strait, that is, the portion between Ounimak and
Ikatim, or Ikatok Island, is 8 miles long by 4 broad This l)roadth, how-
ever, is contracted by one half by Kitenamagan Island, lying half a mile from
Ikatim.

From the North end strait of Isanotskoy, the coast of Aliaska runs to
the north-eastward, in nearly the same direction as the southern coast of
that peninsula. This will be described presently, in connection with the
remainder of the coasts of the Sea of Behring. The Aleutian Archipelago,
forming, as it were, a broken continuation of flie peninsula, will follow.

ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

It is to the celebrated Behring, as we have mentioned regarding the Ko-
diak Islands, that Eussia owes the discovery of the Aleutian Islands. It
was during his return from the Coast of America in 1741 that he discovered
several of them, now known under the names of Semitsch, Kiska, and Amts-
chitka. In 1745 an enterprising merchant, named Ba«off, made a voyage
hitlier in search of the sea otters. After this period they were more fre-
(juently visited, and they daily became better known. The geographical
•positions of tho group we owe principally to the Eussian Vice- Admiral Sa-
rvtschoff, who accompanied Captain Billings in his expedition in 1791—2.
To Captain Cook, too, we owe some observations on this island, and some
others near it. Captains Golownin and Kotzebue, in the years 1817 and
1818, determined tho position of some of their points. Captain Liitkc has
given a long article upon this archipelago, from the observations of Lieut.
TebeukolT, M. laghestrom, and several otliers, which in our general igno-
rance of this archipelago are valuable. Capt. Beechey has also added
sli<'htly to our knowledge of them ; and several other navigators, whose
names will be alluded to, have added something to the general stock.

The Aleutian Islands form a chain, which extends nearly East and West

)m tlie Aleutian
icparutes Alaska
I lying 3 J miles
lern part of tlu)
li does not any-
betweon Alaska
nitzin Bay), tlio
uctci by a larj^o
tromely (lifficuU,
ring the ebb and
soundings do not
iilars of it.
on Oiinimak and*
lis breadth, liow-
lialf a niile from

Aliaska runs to
iouthern coast of
inection with the
tian Archipelago,
a, will follow.

igarding the Ko-
itian Islands. It
hat he discovered
Kiska, andAmts-
I, made a voyage
■^ were more fre-
The geographical
Vice- Admiral Sa-
ition in 1791—2.
J island, and some
9 years 1817 and
aptain Liitkc has
rvations of Lieut.
our general igno-
^ has also added
navigators, whoso
aeral stock.
y East and West

FOX ISLANDS. .',05

i'rom the Islo of Attou, in long. 172^ 45' E., to tlin ijcninsida of Aliaska,
comprising an extent of 23" of longitude, and between 51'" and 65" of N.
latitude.

Tlioy have been divided into several groups. Tlio western or Blignio
group, is composed of four islands— At ton, Agattou, Semitsch, and licmldyr.
Another group is named Kryci or Eat Islands ; a third, thoAndretmoll isles ;
and the eastern group, the Fox Islands, because these animals are only
found on tlie islands composing that partieidar group.

On all tlioso islands traces of volcanic action aro evident. On many of
tliem tlu'ro are volcanoes in activity, and some, as for example, Ounimak,
are subject to continual volcanic eruptions and shocks. The Fox Islands
exceed all others in height ; the further we advance to the West the low(>r
they become. The direction in which almost all the islands of tlio Fox
group lie, lengthwise, is S.W. to N.E. They are low and narrow to the
N.E. But beyond the Island of Amkhitka, whore the general direction of
the chain runs to the West, this law alters, and the S.E. extremities of
the island are lower and narrower, and their N.W. extremities liigher
and broader.

The following description commences with the easternmost of the Ai-chi-
pelago, and proceeds westward in succession.

FOX ISLANDS.

This group, extending from Ounimak to Amoukta, is the most important
of the Archipelago, commercially, on account of the produce of the chase
which is annually drawn from them ; and, geographically, from their cen-
tral situation, and the ports they contain.

OUNIMAK is the easternmost of the group, and is separated from the
peninsula of Aliaska by the Strait of Isanotskoy. In a harbour in this strait
Krenitzin wintered in 1768. In 1826 Captain Beechey passed through the
strait separating it from the islands to the southward. He calls its S.W.
point Wedge-shaped Cape, before which lies a rock, and the narrowest part
of the strait is formed by the Isle Kougalga, Beechey making the distance 9 J
miles.

The southernmost point of Ounimak is called Cape Hitsou or Iiifhouk, or
Khitlchoukh; and, from its shape, by Captain Beechey, Wedge-shaped ^Cape-
From this southern cape the coast nms to the N.E. to Cape Lutke. The
S.W. point of the island is Cape Sarytscheff; before it is a large rock simi-
larly situated with respect to it as that of the southern cape.

It is about 65 miles long in a N. 52° E. and S. 52° W. direction, and its
greatest breadth about 25 miles. It is, so to speak, but the cover to a fur-
nace, continuaUy burning ; on the summit of this ii high mountain chain ex-
tends throughout the island, having several spiracles. Notwithstanding the

i0^S&:'^^:m^S!U;^^^"'^f^^SXtB:»r'^ saii .' PX I ^ -stmrv^^m^

ALEUTIAN ARCnirELAOO.

606

nunaber of orators, tlu« suhtorranoan fim cau«0B froqnout oarthquakos. Tho
i o thc.so sununits, tlu, C/.W.,/./..^o/ r«..««. or ML SI.M.n, was

^ll .y captain Li.t.. as 8,03. En.li^ ..t higb. ^^^ -|^^-;;;

and to the East of it is another, with a doubh. summit. It stands nearly
ho con^ of this island, in about M^ 45' and 10.^ 59'. Mr. myrnpor s.,ys :

! M hlinskoihasavory graceful form. Ne.r it is a -"-^ — -
of ls« elevation, with a ja.god double summit, of ve,^ o,a ^^^
H mearance. Smoke was issmng (September 1865) from a Ja.ge de
Ta the sxmimit." At 6 miles from the 8.W. side is another oquaUy conu.a
lalo aid Fo,ronunoi, or M.o.skoi, which Kot.ebuo says . 5,525
C^Bh feet in height. The I.annaU CMn has also two high peaks
tolrds the N.E. extremity of the island. The whole of the mountain chains
are nearer the South than the North side. „ , . , , , , ^

A broad bed of gravel forms tho N.E. extremity of the island, and a low
coast extends as far as the village of Chichaldinskoi' without any sholte.
The vmage is two-thirds the distance from tho N.E. extremity to a cape ^
i^L East from Cape Mordvinoff. The N.W. extremity, Cape Mordvmo 1

L Iff and V IT remarkable, because the land on each side of it is very
ow o the Wo!t extremity of the island, Capo Sarytscheff, he coast fonns
thlbase of the Po,rornmoi Volcano. The latter cape is bluff, and of a

''tZ'ToL^ Strait, through which Kot.ebuo passcKl in 1817
sopTates Ounimak from the Krenitzin Isles to the southward. Its nanwest
pit, as before mentioned, is about 9J mHes broad. The currents are very

"^llSliltEurick Strait is the widest and safest for traversing the Aleutian
chain from North to South, and ./.. versd, and also the most convenient
for passing into the northern part of the Sea of Behnng it is not so advan-
rgeousfo! ships wluch, coming from tho Pacific, are destined for Ouna-
Sa. CaptWrangel recommends the Strait of Akoutan, farther west-

ward, for this route. ^ . i n •„

Krenitzin Islands-The islaads next in succession to Oummak are five m

number. The N.E. of them, caUed Kougalga, in reahty consists of two

Xnds, Ou,amk and OueMoL There is a peak on the N.E. extreme of

""^Zt: or A7,«^,«, or Ti.aUa, is the next to tho S^ and is about 4
leagxts k ng, East and West. Its centre is in lat. 54° 5' N., and long. 16
W A sma'l island, connected by a chain of rocks to Tigalda, hes off its
northern extremity. Tigalda is moxmtainous, and intersected by three
isthmuses. A great quantity of drift-wood is found on its coast, and coal is
found on the shore of Derbinskoi Strait.

Berbimkoi Strait separates it from Abacanok, and xs remarkable among

THE ISLAND OF OITNALASIIKA.

•>07

LrthquakoH. The
!. Shinhaldin, wan
[s a regular conn ;
; stands nearly in
. Wliymper sayH :
soconcl mountain
idd and iiTopular
om a Jnvgo dol't
Lor equally conical
10 Bays is 6,525
two high peaks
mountain chains

island, and a low
thout any shelter,
emity to a capo 15 i

Capo Mordvinoll'
ipe Chkhkof, which

side of it is very
3ff, tho coast forms
is bluff, and of a

passed in 1817,
ivard. Its narrowest
) currents are very

TOrsing tho Aleutian
he most convenient
f, it is not so advan-
destinod for Ouna-
mtan, farther wost-

Ounimak are five in
lity consists of two
he N.E. extreme of

W., and is about 4
i' N., and long. 165"

Tigalda, hes off its
intersected by three

its coast, and coal is

3 remarkable among

all thnotlicrs for tho extraordinary rapidity of tlio cuiTout and its stroiif;
tide races.

Abafantik lies West of Ti^'alda, and is about the same hIzo, and lies in tho
same dii'vctioii. At 2 miles West of tlu* westcni point of Al)iitiuiok is tlai
small island of Aektuk, or Gohj (bare), which is about a league in circmn-
forenco, and lies 2 miles South of the South point of Akoun.

Akoun forms tli(» S.W. jjortion of Ilurick Strait, and lies to tlio West of
the Ivrenitzin Islands. It is about II miles long, in a N.K. and S.W. direc-
tion ; its l)readth is une(iual. Tliero are two small bays on it, ono in tho
N.E. part, tho other in the N.W. part of tho island.

The island is mountainous, and particularly cliffy on i'.s N.E. and North
sides. On the South side of tho island is a sort of column, which, seen fnmi
the East or West, resembles a towin-, or steeple surrounded by houses. On
its N.W. side is a smoking volcano, and near tho village on tho side of
Akoimskoi Strait, are somo hot springs.

Akoundoi S/niit, separating Akoun from Akoutan, is not more that 2 miles
wide, is throughout bestrewed with rocks, and subject to strong currents and
tide races.

Akoutan lies half a league to the West of Akoun. It is largo, mountain-
ous, of a round form, and having a diameter of 12 or 13 miles. It has no
good harbour ; there are somo coves on tho northern coast, but they cannot bo
serviceable to any but very small vessels.

With tho exception of Ounalashkn, it is higher than the neighbouring
islands. Nearly in the centre is an active volcano, measured by Captain
Liitke as 3,332 feet. Tho coasts are steep, paiticularly on the South side.
On the North they slope more gradually and evenly. Volcanic evidences
are everywhere abundant, and the fire from the crater was seen in Sept.,
1865.

The ISLAND of OUNALASHKA, wliich is the largest and the best known
of the Aleutian Archipelago, follows. It extends 70 miles from N.E. to
S.W. Tho S.W. extreme is in lat. 53" 13', long. 167" 47' W. ; and tho N.E.
part in lat 54^ 1' N., long. 166° 22' W.

The name hero given as gonorsdly kn(jwn to Europeans is a contraction of
Xagounalaska. It is tho most important of tho group, because it was tho
residence of tho chief of the section of tho Eussian Company's hunting
operations.

There are many deep bays on tho coasts of Ounalashka, which have
nearly all been examined and surveyed by our navigators. Tho northern
bhoro has tho greatest number, as for example: — Captain Bay, tho Bay
of Otters, Illuluk Bay, Kaloghta liay, and Samganooda Bay, visited by
Cook.

Captain Bay is formed by Capes KalegUa and Wcmlojf'di/, v.liich lio in an
E.N.E. and AV.S.W. direction 9 miles from each other, and is about 13 miles

TjOH

ALEUTIAN AKCl'irELAUO.

t(» itH Honfhnrn part. Tli.- iippfv part oi' thn hay coiitaitis tlin«<« diHtinct
Hinallor Imys, tilt' i-aHtorii, iicirthcni, aiitl wosU'ni bayH. Tlic Hoiitlu- • liay
IniH not nmih to rouomintmd it; ita outrfttioo scarcoly nioro than ii (piiutcr

of n mil« broad.

Tho oaHturn laiy In-nrs tho nanii- of Port I/ln/id; from tlif villa^'o of tlmt
iiftino, whoro tho company hud an oHtnbliHhmont. Kot/olxio says that it
would bo tho hfwt harbour in tlic uuivorso if tho ontrauco to it wan not ho dilli-
c'ult ; for a vossol ontorinp Port Illuliik, if it shouhl full calm, woiim ronmin
oxpoBod to tho violent currontH and stiualls which often occur hero. Ouimik-
nnqh hliind fonuH tho western side of tho port, whicli, liko tho island itself,
has a N.E. and S.W. direction.

Tho port is in lat. 53" 62' 25" N., and long. 160-= 32' 0" W. Tho establish-
ment of tho port, 7'' 30*" ; thohigiiost tide observed, 7 feet G inches.

Kalrijl'a Jini/, which lies next, to tho eastward of liliiluk, is open and
deep, and only merits attention on account of a village of tho same name at
it.s head. Tho Jiai/ of Otters, or Ituhrovaia, adjoins Kaloghta Uay on the
East, and is tho largest of those which intersect Ounalashka, being 18 miles
deep in a N.E. and S.W. direction. Its breadth, as well at tho moutli as the
rest of the bay, excepting the North part, is about 4 miloa. 15oth shores of
the bay present a largo number of small coves, of 2 or 3 miles deep, which
contain good anchorages; the rivulets which fall from the mountains aflord
good water. The western part of tho Bay of Otters is formed by a penin-
sula which is the same land which forms tho eastern side of Captain
Bay. At tho extremity of this peninsula ia Samganooda Bay, where Cook
anchored twice.

The Island of Ounalga, or Oonclla, lies before Samganooda Bay, mentioned
before. Between it and the Island of Akoutan, to the N.E. of it, is the
Strait of Akoutan. Captain Wrangel recommends this strait to be preferred
for passing between the islands, because it leads directly to all the ports ly-
ing on the N.E. side of Ounalashka. This strait is 2^ miles broad ; but it
is somewhat narrowed by a chain of islets, Egg Islets, lying half a mile off
the N.E. part of Ounalga. Spirkin Island, which forms the eastern point
of the Bay of Otters, is 10 miles long in a N. i E. and S. \ W. direction.
The Oudagagh Channel, which separates it from Ounalashka, is about a milo
Tfido, and 3J miles long, in a N. by W. i W. direction. The depth in it is
45 fatixoms. At the N.E. end of Spirkin Island lies tho small isle Ougalgan,
being separated by a clear channel about a mile long.

On the eastern side of Ounalashka is tho small bt-y of Eilhliak, which is
easily known by a remarkable cape, named Amtschitka, stending a little tj
the North of the entrance to the bay. Ounalashka here piesents the appear-
ance of being divided into two parts. The bay is perfectly sheltered from

all winds.

Makouchinskoy Bay lies about the middle of the island, on the western side.

V<^^ -^^ ^Q.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

y MP..

^ i

1.0

I.I

1.25

1^128 12.5

■50 i"^" Mi^

KS 1^ 1112.2

1.4

2.0

1.8

1.6

Photographic

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CIHM/ICMH

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Canadian Institute for Historical MIcroreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques

rT^Trt

OIJMNAK ISLAM).

".(»!»

It is 22 railos wido at its opening, and 11 or I'i milos long in an eaatei'ly
direction. The lioad of this bay approaches that, of the Bay of Otters within
;j miles, and within 7 miles of Captain Bay, in such a manner that tliis por-
tion of Ounalashka forma a peninsula of 40 miles in circumference, composeil
of high mountains, among which a very high volcano Is to be distinguished.
OUMNAK ISLAND lies next West to Ounalashka, and, next to that
island, is the largest of the archipelago. The strait which separates them is
4 miles wide in its southern part ; but this is diminishoil to one-half by
Tinginah Island, which lies in mid-channel; this renders tho passage difhcult
for large vessels. Outside tho strait, at 5 miles to tho South of Tinginak,
is a reef, which covers at high water.

Oumnak is nearly 20 leagues in length, in a S.W. by S. and N.E. by N.
direction. Its height increases in the same direction ; and its North end is
composed of very high mountains, among which may bo distinguished a very
high volcano, covered with eternal snow.

Upon the island are two active volcanoes, the first, Vcevidovshoi, is nearly
in the centre of the island, and is its highest point ; tho other, Tmlikskoi, is
10 miles from the N.E. side. The S.W. extremity of tho island, Cape Sigak,
lies in lat. 52° 50', long. 168° 42'. A short distance from this the S.E. coast
forms some small open bays, one of which is called the Old Port, which is
somewhat sheltered from the South from seaward by a bank. Beyond this
is the Black Cape, projecting considerably into the sea, and forming the open
cove called Drovianaia (wood), on account of the great quantity of drift-wood
throv.n on to it. Beyoud this the coast runs nearly straight, and not very
high, to Vcevidovskaia Cove, open to the South, before which lie the Vce-
vidovskaia Islands, mentioned presently. Here the coast is low and sloping,
and thus extends to Gloiihokain (deep) Cove, into which a river discharges it-
self, abounding with fish. Farther to the N.E., beyond a mass of rocks 90
feet in height, inclining to the N.E., is the village Fgorkovskoi, in a small
creek midway between Cape Sigak and Oumnak Strait. The neighbourhood
of the village afi'ords groat resources. A rude, sandy, and straight coast
suiTounds this as far as the village Toulikskoi, lying in front of the islet
Tanghinakh, in the Strait of Oumnak. Near the S.E. coast there are many
reefs and banks.

The eastern face of the island facing Ounalashka is steep and rocky in some
places, but 1.3 not high. Tho North part is high, sandy, and even, frequently
intersected with ravines, but without a single remarkable inlet. The West
coast is mountainous, but not steep. On this sid'- at 8 miles from the S.W.
extremity, is tho largest village of the island, Retchechnoi, standing on a small
liill between some lakes inland and the sea-shore. Nearly in the middle of
the West side of the island is the large but open bay called Ingakoadak.

On the S.E. side of the islands and in front of the Veevidovskoi volcano
and the hay of the same name, are situated the small islands called, also.

i 11: f

' I

■ ij

510 ALEUTIAN AECnirELAGO.

Vcnidonlin. Tliey arc six in number, and are 2 miles off the coast, tlio in-
terval being full of banks.

Ouranak, like the rest of the islands, is deficient of wood, some willow and
other bushes only growing on it. It is, next to Oumnak, the most subject
to volcanic eruptions. One feature is an evidence of this ; it is the abundance
of hot springs, one of which resembles the Geysers of Iceland.

To the nortliward of Ouumak is a long reef, stretching for 26 milos in a
nearly North, true, direction, at the outer point of which is the >S/,'> Hock, so
named by Cook, in tho form of a tower.

At 200 fathoms within the Ship Eock is the small island of Joann Bogoshff.
It is of volcanic origin, and did not appear till 1796, after an earthquake.
The length of this smaU island, from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S., is M miles.
A chain of rocks projects 2 mile^ beyond its N.W. extremity, and another
a mile from its N.E. point. The peak in the centre of the island is 2,240 ft.
high.* This island, as before stated, is connected with Oumnak by a reef
of rocks, which doubtless owe their origin to a similar cause ; for, in 1778,
Cook, and thirty years later Sarytscheff, sailed between the Ship Eock and
the Island of Oumnak.

To the westward of Oumnak is a group of four-or, according to Lutke,
five-volcanic islands, which bear the name of the Mei^ of the Four Moun-
taim ; thoy are all very near to each other. The name of the S.W. isle is
OuUaga ; of the N.W. Tano ; the N.E. is called Tfichiganok ; and that to the
S.E. Chagamil. The first and the last are the largest, being 5 or 6 leagues
in circumference.

H.M.S. Amphitrite, Captain Charles Frederick, E.N., pt^ssed between tho
Four Mountains Isles and Younaska on June 28, 1853. The four islands
are very remarkable, having conical peaks from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high, and
were then covered with snow fully three-fourths of their height. The chan-
nel is 10 or 11 miles wide, and apparently free from danger ; no soundings
at 15 fathoms, a rippling, but not a strong current.

Younaska.— To the S.E. of these islands is Younaska, which is about 5
leagues from N.E. to S.W. There is a high mountain in the centre of the
island. Tschxgoula, or Tchougoul, a small island, lies West of Younaska

• Admiral Krusenstem adds the account of this phenomenon, from Mr. Baranoff, chief
of the American Company's establishment:-" In 1806, a now volcano appeared on one of
tho Aleutian Islands. At the end of a month the flame ceased, hut the smoke mcreascd
considerably, and the island kept on increasing. In 1814 the island was formed by preci-
pices covered with imnW stones, which were being continually ejected from the crater. In
'Slo' a second expedition found tho island very much lower than in the previous year,
and its appearance entirely changed. Tho precipices had fallen, and were continually
crumbling away."

a£i!C

•t

ANDRE ANOFF ISLANDS.

511

) const, tliG in-

mo willow and
3 mo8t subject
. the aLundnnco
1.

2G milys in a
e SI 'p Rock, so

Joann Bogoslojf.
m earthquake.
S.,is IJ miles.
y, and another
and is 2,240 ft.
nnak by a reef
i; for, in 1778,
Ship Eock and

:ding to Liitke,

ihe Four Moun-

he S.W. isle is

and that to the

5 or 6 leagues

ised between the
Lhe four islands
OO feet high, and
ght. The chan-
r ; no soundings

rhich is about 5
he centre of the
ist of Tounaska

Mr. BaranofF, chief
appeared on one of
he smoko increased
Eis formed by preci-
from the crater. In
I the previous year,
nd were continually

and nfiar tlie N.E. point of Amouglita. It is of a circular form, and 3 miles
in diameter.

It seems as if formed of fragments of rock ready to fall down, and has no
landing placo. At about a mile from it, in the direction of Amoughta, is a
.small isolated rock.

Amoughta, or Amoukhtou, is tho westernmost of tho chain of the Fox
Islands. It is nearly round, and about 6 miles in diameter. Its centre is
mountainous, and its summit irrogtilnr. Tlie coasts are low, but steep.
A short distance from its South end, a high column of vock rises above
the water.

The Channels between this group are those generally used by ships either
going or returning from the Sea of Behring. The Russian Company's ves-
sels generally preferred that of the Strait of Ounimak ; but Capt. Wrangel
prefers the Strait of Akoutan, between that island and Akoun, as being
much shorter. In returning by this strait, with the prevalent S.W. winds,
you may run to the S.E. without being cramped by the coasts.

The Strait of Ounalga should not be used except in case of necessity,
on account of its narrowness, its strong currents, and its terrible tide
races, which, when the wind and waves oppose each other, are sufficient to
dismast a vessel.

The Strait of Akoutan is considered by Liitke tho best to quit by. It is
2 miles broad between Akoutan and the five Tchaitclii (sea-mew) Islands,
which are of an oblong form, distant half a mile from the N.E. point of
Ounalga. Care should be take of these islands in coming from the south-
ward, as a mistake .might be fatal.

ANDREANOFF ISLANDS.

This group extends from Segouam, or Sigouam to Goreli, or the "Burnt
Island," as Liitke also calls the first-named island.

Segouam, or Goreli, according to the hunters, is the easternmost of the
group. It is intersected by a chain of mountains, divided into three masses,
smoke issuing at times from the central mass. In tho N.E. part they rise
perpendicularly from the water. There are no dangers around it.

The Ar^oughta Channel, to the East of it, is clear, safe, and has similar
currents to the rest. The channel to tho West, between it and Amlia is
far from being as convenient.

From the extent of the latter island, and also that of Segouam, a barrier
of nearly 100 miles is opposed to the periodic current passing between them,
and consequently the water rushes violently from either side through the
strait, causing terrible and dangerous races.

Captain Henry Trollope, R.N., passed in H.M.S. Rattlesnake, between Se-
guoam and Amoukta, August 16, 1853, but without seeing land. He con-

,j2 ALEUTIAN ARCllirELAOO.

„Uagu. ^tthMpan ,„„.aer in the midaio. The South ndo

Englieh^le m breadth bu^^^^^^^^^^ S„,*«,./i^.*»-, thi. port

<„Pm. -7f ^''^',;'j3y „t to Wand, and peaetrate. U mile to
is 16 m.lo. from the Eae «trem y .^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^

r '^!ar;:::o:itt"!.tt:U.rte»of a .i.e ia Wh, No«h

a„d South, half •■»;"' ^'»'*/'r X^ „„/i,e rounded to We.t. Ia,ide
'"" ■" '"'"; ■? ttlwr td tlTiu.ide, 6 to 4i fathou.., ..udy
*•" ■" i J^t ™k W^; South 82« E.., at 9i mile, ftom the en-
r::aud%r»iir«;em tl neare. eoaet, will peiat out the .tuafou

of this harbour. ^^ ^^^ ^road, is

.r;rroSr::::t^"--'>--^--- -•

*?St l*ha>irar;:raud p.acipa, onhU group. The length

ATMA, or Alc , ^^txemity to the farthest point to the N.E., is

of the island, from '^'^f'^^^^^J^^^,^ the same feature so general

--^^-/^^tra— nd o^ S.W. extremity, enlarging and in-

ThrtheloIpartofAtkhaalsoformsa

nalashka, the Jor P ^^ which is the active and smoking volcan.s

.mountains, ^^'^""''^''^ ^^ j^orth coast, and 4,852 English feet in

called ^^7"«f;;^\y;°Vl, it presents two summits, and on the North is
'"^'' 'Tile shore inaoces'sible. Four miles to the South rises the
T 'f' kL2Z and not far from the N.E. extremity is another. The
volcano of f/"^^''''.^;;^ ' ^^^^^ees to the North into the sea, forming

base of the ^orovmskoi volca^^^ ^^ ^^^ .^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^

a rocky escarpment, -^ f ; ^^^^g ,. q^ J „ther side it runs nearly
..this ^^^^X^':^:^^. N.W. extremity, called C.,e P..-
ou the parallel without c ^^^ perpendicularly. It

"'■f ' ufdT: ac^olit reef extending thence 2 miles to the W.N.W.
Lt:Coir-^.«l volcano. From this the high and cHffy coast

' I novor saw such
. ; it washed away

g and narrow, and
it 40 miles. The
, the greater part
, moderate height,
onoral clear. The
\'. On the South
y, ai d an Aleutian
; (two-thirds of an
). The South side
ITarbour ; this port
enetrates H mile to
Itered from seaward
e in length, North
port; this space is
ed to West. Inside
4i fathoms, sandy
miles from the en-
it out the situation

a H ™il^ broad, is
sed by a sailing ves-
ts group. The length
point to the N.E., is
e feature so general
ty, enlarging and in-

Makouchin, on Ou-
a, crowned with high
nd smoking volcano,
1,852 English feet in
, and on the North is
) the South rises the
emity is another. TIio

into the sea, forming
he island. To the E.
Br side it runs nearly
ity, called Cape PoUii-
; perpendicularly. It
! miles to the W.N.W.
le high and cliflPy coast

ATKHA.

ol.T

runs to the South, to the low and narrow isthmus of Serf/In ii'ff. IIh Wi ^t
extremity, Capo Korovinskaia, rises out of the sea iu a steep ilifl', with niiuiy
slips.

Korovimkaia Bay, which opens to the West, is formed by thn large penin-
sula and tlie connecting isthmus. Two coves form the harbour of Korovins-
kaia, which is perfectly sheltered, but has an e.xtreuioly difllcult (>ntrance.

The outer bay is 6J miles brond in its opening. Thero is only auchorago
on the North side, in 14 fathoms, before the entrance to the harbour. It is
without danger in the fine season, but in autumn terrible gales, passing from
N.W. to N.E., occur, when a ship could not remain here ; and at such times
the entrance is covered with breakers for several weeks together.

There is but one village upon Atkha, called NilioMoi, on the South side of
the inner harbour of Korovinskaia. It consists of a few houses for the em-
ployes of the Russian Company, a church, &c. It is in a low and damp
situation, and has many disadvantages. One great inconvenience of Atkha
is the extreme scarcity of provisions.

There are two coves on the South side of Korovinskaia Bay. That nearest
to the isthmus is only worthy of attention from the fact that fossil wood is
found here, which may be an indication of eoal. The other cove, Sarannaia,
is to the S.W. of the former, and is the only place where a ship can anchor
conveniently, and also may procure water.

At 6 miles S. 52^° W. from Cape laitchnoi, 2 or 3 miles off shore, is the
solitary island Soknij (salt) ; it is small, and not high, and between it and
the cape is the long Stariichhoff Reef. Beyond Cape laitchnoi the North
coast of Atkha curves to the S.W., and forms several bays, which are open
and unimportant. To E. by S. of Soleny Island, and to the South of a cape
E. by N. from that island, is the deep bay of Gloubokaia, which, it is said,
affords excellent shelter.

Ca^e Tolstoi projects considerably into the sea. On its East side is an open
bay ; on its West side is Koourovshaia Bay, extending first S.E. and then
E. by S. It is 24 or 25 miles from Korovinskaia Harbour, and, in fine
weather, is serviceable, but in bad or foggy weather its entrance is difificult.
And on the S.W. side of Cape Tolstoi is a conical peak, which rises high
and isolated near the coast ; and between them, at some miles in the offing,
the islets which shelter the bay. Steer for the largest of them, and round
it carefully by the lead, and, when once it is doubled, the entrance is not
difficult. Near the cape lying near the conical peak, called for this reason
Podsopotchnoi (under the peak), is a sunken rock, which only breaks at times.
To avoid this, pass between the islands.

Eassatotchy Island, which bears N. 54° W. 9 or 10 miles from the mountain
on the S.W. extremity of Atkha, is an extinct volcano. It is a mountaiu
rising at once out of the sea ; the crater on its summit is stated to be full
of water.

North Pacific. 2 l

J, 4 THE ALEUTIAN AECHirELAOO.

The Tchastie Islands, a group of small but Ligh islands to the West of
Atkha, are thus called {khadie, crowded) from their arrangement. There
are thirteen of difi«.ront sizes, and six large isolated rocks. Tho island
nearest to Atkha is Oglodak, 3A miles distant. It is high, steep, and without
landing. These islands are said to be unapproachable, from the strong tido-
racos and currents which rush through them.

Sitkhin Island, which, to distinguish it from another of the nr.me to tho
West, is sometimes caUedEast Sitkhin, is in lat. 52° 1' or 5', and about long.
176° 2' (centre). It is about 25 miles in circumference, and in its centre is
a volcano covered with perpetual snow, which was ascertained by M. In-
ghestrom to be 5,033 English feet in elevation.

Adakh is a large mountainous island, but lower than Sitkhin ; it is co-
vered with perpetual snow in some parts. Its North end is in about lat.
62° 4' 6'. The bay on the North side is open, and there are others on
the N.E., South, and West sides ; that to tho South offers the best shelter.
It is separated by a small isthmus from the bay on the West coast. The
position and details of the island are very imperfect, as are also those of

the next island.

Kanaga, or Eonniaga, is the island next West to Adakh, to which it is
similar in size, being 7 or 8 leagues in length, by half that breadth. The
northern part of this island is remarkable by a high smoking volcano, one
of the most lofty in the chain ; the rest of the island is not very high.
Near to its western part is a small island bearing the name of the Isle of
Otters. These islands, however, are but incorrectly delineated and placed

on the charts.

Tanaga is separated from Kanaga by a channel 2 leagues broad, extend-
ing 8 leagues in a N.E. direction. It is about 11 leagues in extent, from
East to West, and 4 in breadth, It is easily distinguished by an elevated
volcano, which stands at its S.W. point. Near tho point is a bay, which
Sarytscheff visited ; the entrance may be about 4 miles broad, and is about
8 miles deep. At this distance, in the North part of the bay, the vessel in
which he penetrated anchored on a bottom of fine black sand, in front of tho
entrance of two rivers. Watering is very easily performed in this bay, the
boats ascending the rivers without any obstacles.

At 6 leagues to the West of Tanaga is Goreloy or Burnt Island. It has a
very high volcano, whose summit is covered with perpetual snow. It has a
circumference of 6 leagues ; and M. Inghestriim considers this volcano, and
those on Kanaga and Tanaga, as the highest in the Aleutian chain.

South of this is a small group, the chief of which are the two small De-
laiuff I-I:-"^-, whirh, with those South of it, form the westernmost of tho
group of theAndr^anoffsky Islands. They are mentioned by Sarytscheff as
being 16 miles S.W. of the S.W. point of Tanaga. He found the passage
between quite clear.

•^m

ids to the West of
■angement. Tlioro
rocks. Tho island
steep, and without
om the strong tido-

of the nr.me to tlio
5', and about loujj,-.
Qd in its centre is
ertained by M. In-

1 Sitkhin ; it is co-
ad is in about lat.
here are others on
irs the best shelter.
5 "West coast. Tho
i are also those of

akh, to which it is
that breadth. The
loking volcano, one
1 is not very high,
lame of the Isle of
inoated and placed

juos broad, extend-
ues in extent, from
led by an elevated
loint is a bay, which
jroad, and is about
e bay, the vessel in
jand, in front of tho
ned in this bay, the

nt Island. It has a
ual snow. It has a
irs this volcano, and
itian chain,
e the two small Dc-
westernmost of tho
ed by Sarytscheff as
J found the passage

KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS. ry\r>

At some distance East of the eastern isU-t are two rocks. At about 15
versts from these rocks, or 40 versts S.S.W. from Ooreloy, is a third island,
Kakhmlga ; and 10 or 12 versts to tho West of tho latter is Oumihia, a low
island. Vlak, also low, and the largest of all, is to tho South of Tanaga.

Amatiynak and Illak are also two small isles to tlio South of those again.
The southernmost, Amatignak ("a chip" in Aleuto), is the larger of tho
two, and tlio highest of all.

KRYCI OR RAT ISLANDS.

The islands next West of tho foregoing aro included by Liitko and othorM
under the above denomination.

Semisopochnoi.— At 16 or 17 leagues West of Goroloy or Burnt Island is
the Isle of the Heven Mountains. The name (Semisopochnoi) is signiflcant of
its character. It is of a circular form, and is 10 leagues in circumference.

According to M. Inghostriim, its lat. is 51° 59', and its long. 180'^ 1-1' 3'
West. The mountains do not exceed 3,000 foet in height. One of tho
mountains in the North part sends forth smoko. Tlie North and East sides
have a wild and desolate aspect ; on the South and West there are several
green spots. Tho shores are in general clear.

The strait between Semisopochnoi and Ooreloy is tho best for crossing the
Aleutian chain. It is safe throughout, is no loss thou 45 miles broad, and
is not subject to tide races.

Amtschitka is a larg-e island ; it is not very hilly, and extends about 1 1
leagues N. 72*^ W. and S. 72" E. Near its West point are two small islands,
the larger of which is called Rat Island, a name, as above mentioned, which
has been extended to the whole group. Behring probably saw this island
on October 25th, and gave it the name of St. Marcian (Markiana). He says
it was moderately high, and covered with snow.

The island is about 35 miles in length, E.S.E. ^ E. and AV.N.W. | W. by
compass. It is low, and is not more than 4 miles wide at the S.E. part, but
is broader and higher in the N.W. Its S.E. extremity forms a peninsula,
on which a hillock rises, and from it a reef extends for 2 miles. The South
coast runs nearly in a straight line, without any bays or coves. At about a
third the length of the island a chain of moderately high mountains rises,
and falls again toward the N.W. extremity, where it forms a low but stcoji
cape, called by the Aleutes Hatanna, or Bird's Cape.

On the North side of the island, at 10 miles from its East end, is luri-
lovskaia Hay, the only place in tho island where you can stay at anchor. Tliis
anchorage is somewhat sheltered from seaward by u reef off its middle
V hich requires caution in entering ; there are also some roefs on either side
of it. It is dangerous to remain here in autumn or winter, when northerly

2 L 2

THE ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAOO.

gales are prevalent. The lat. of the bay i« sr 27' I '. long. 180° 40' C W.

HiRh water occurs about 10 o'clock, at full and change.

To the N.W. of Amtschitka are the Merula Me., a group of four small

,n^ Sands, which extend about 6 loaguos East and West. One of these .

called by Liitke Little or Wed SMhin, another is named Dawydoff.

■ Kryoi, Eat, or Ayougadagh Hand, which gives its name to the group, .s
7 miles long, mountainous, and in lat. 51° 45'. long. 180" 40 W.

KiBka a hiUy island, with the exception of its eastern part, which ,s low,
lieftftlwes of the preceding. Its length, North and South, is 25 m.los.
A rol in the form of a'column. lies 3 miles N.W. of the island Behr>n«
saw it October 28th. 1741. He named it St. Stephan According to M.
"hostrom, there oxiBts to thoEastof Kiska. at U xnile distant, a small ...
which ho ciilH Little Kiska ; and throo miles from this, in the same direction,
L sniaU island Tannada.h, and a rock. Ho also mentunis some rocks,
which do not uncover, between the islands Bouldyr and Kiska, at the d.s-
Leo of 5 leagues from the former. Capt. Lutko, however, considers this

liositiou as doubtful.

Bouldyr lies to the W.N.W. of Kiska. It is a hilly island^ -rvouiu ed
by peaked rocks, which extend to half a league beyond tho S.W. point of the
island. It is about 4 leagues iu circumference, and two large rocks exist at
tho western part of the island.

BLIJNI GROUP.
This group, composed of two islands and a ooUection of separate rocks, is
called Blijni (the nearest), because it is the nearest to Kamtschatka. of the
Aleutian chain. The discovery belongs to Behring.

Semitsch forms a portion of this westernmost group of the Aleutian
Islands It consists of two small islands haK a league apart, and exteiuling
E N E and W S W. 6 or 7 miles. On the charts of Sarytscheff and the
Eussian Admiralty a group of rocks was inseited. as lying 16 leagues to the
East of the Isle of Attou. Their distance from the N.E. extremity of the
Semitsch Islands is estimated at 5 leagues in a S. 79° E. direction, but their

position is very doubtful. ^ ^ x, a

Aeattou to the South of the Semitsch Islands, according to Saxytscheti,
has a circumfereQce of 34 miles. It is separated from Attou by a strait of

15 miles wide.

ATTOU is one of the largest of the Aleutian Islands. Its eastern extreme
lies 6 leagues W.S.W. from the Semitsch Islands. According to Captain
Golownin's observations in 1808. it is 27 J miles in length East and West;
but Admiral Sarvtsehelf makes it 48 miles long. In the S.E. part of the
island is a bay .ailed M<macre Bay. It is about 3 miles wide, and midway

MKllIllNO 8EA

'ilT

long. 180° 40' C W.

group of four smnll
rest. One of these is
1 Dawijiloff.

lamo to the group, is
0" 40' W.

rn part, which ia low,
nd South, is 25 milos.

tho island. Behrin^'
m. According to ^1.
e distant, a email islf.
in tho same direction,
mentions some rocks,
md Kiska, at tho dis-
owever, considers this

illy island, surrounded
d tho S.W. point of the
(vo largo rocks exist at

)n of separate rocks, is
to Kamtschatka, of the

group of tho Aleutian
ue apart, and extending
of Sarytscheff and the
lying 16 leagues to tho
e N.E. extremity of the
9° E. direction, but their

according to Sarytscheff,
rom Attou by a strait of

nds. Its eastern extreme
. According to Captain
L length East and West;
In the S.E. part of the
miles wide, and midway

liotwoon tlio two outer capos is a group of small islets and mcka, witliiu
wlii(h tliero also appears to ho a low renf, and anotlicr lies oiilsido tliera,
half a mile to tlio S.W. Lieutenant Etolin discovereil on the Nortli coast of
Attou an excellent bay, wlii(h he called THchit/<thii(/njf' Jtiii/, where tiie Russian-
American Company had an estabUshmeut. It is in lat. 52'' 50', and !) miles
from tlie eastern point of tho island.

This is tho western extremity of the Aleutian (hain, wliieli I'ornis the south-
tiiHtern limit of tho Sea of Helirinjj^. The (wo islands lying near tho coast
of Kamtschatka, Copper, and lieliring Islands, IHO miles to tlio N.W., miglit
almost bo considered as a continuation of the chain, but, as they are more
((iiincctod with tho western coast, they aro described hereafter in c(jnnexioii
with it.

Attou is tho westernmost of tho islands ceded by Eu8.sia to tho United
h'tates, being so mentioned in tho treaty.

The territorial division passes midway between it and Copper Island, and
then in a straight lino to the middle of Behring Strait.

BEHBINO SEA.

The extensive landlocked sea which bears tho name of its great discoverer
has been alluded to in tho introduction to this chapter. Although very I'o-
niote from ordinary commerce, its c'xstern part has been fref|iu;ntly traversed
hy navigators competent to aescribe its features. Of those Adms. Bcechey,
Kellett, CoUinson, Captains Moore, TroUope, and others may bo cited as
having aided in composing the chart. Tho one groat physical feature is the
( xtensivo bank of soundings which stretches oif for 250 to 350 mih^s from
tho American coast, affording an immense anchoring ground for tho whaling
fleet which frequents its waters. The eastern side, with which wo are less
acquainted, is apparently deeper, causing a great difference in the mode of
whalo-hshing ; to the eastward, tho animal plunging into the mud in shoal
water ; to the westward diving to groat depths.

The whale-fishery has been mentioned in the introductory remarks to this
( hapter. But, in addition to their primary pursuit, the whalemen were all
more or less traders, and by their traffic with the natives of tho more distant
ports and places, so far interfered with the exclusive privileges of tho
I'ussian-American Company, that the question was made one of justice to
the Russians, that the United States shoiUd extinguish this privilege by the
payment of a s\im of purchase money.

The shallowness of the northern part of the sea, and of Boliring Strait, has a
marked effect on its physical condition. It wiU not allow of any floating
icebergs drifting southwards from the Arctic Sea ; the current generally sets
northward, so that its climate, though severe, is not so inclement as a

nil

■mm^SMix:iiJi^>%i-iy<fi^z

,Ff

All

iu;iii;iN<i SEA.

region in a corrcHponding liitit\ulo on tlio oiipoHito Hido of tlio American

rontinent.

Till) Amoriciin hIiIo (ill IjdIoukh now to llin TTnitod Stntos. as lioforo mon-
tionod, hoini; in(a>idod in tho AliiNka territory. And our t.iH.. in rondorod
Hoinowhat diflUult on uirount of tho roctmt rliangoH of niiiHtcrH, whioh may
indiifti otlii'r cluin^n's of wliicli wo »:av(! rooctivod no account.

The PENINSULA of ALIA8KA,* whoso south- oaHt(>rn coast has heoii
previously doscribcd, fonns, with tho Aleutian Archiiiolaffo, tho southom
limits of IJohrinR 8ea, or, as it has boon sometimes called, tho Hca of
Kamtschatka. Tlio description is therefore resumed at the point where
the fonuer loft olf, namely, at tho Strait of Isanotzkoy. Tho charts are

imperfect.

Point Krcnik.in appears to l»o the first prominent point to the northward.
It is tlio oxtremity of a low hed of gravel, and is tho N.W. point of an open
l)ay, on tho Ea^c side of which is the village Morjovnkoi (Morses). This vil-
lage stands on low, marshy land, intorsof^ted with nnmcrous lakes.

hcnhek is tho next port in proceeding norMiward. Its S.W. point, Cape
alazenap, or Mifknjf, is in Int. 55" 14' 8", and hmg. Ki'i" 50. 7. This (mpo is
vei7 rcmarkahle l.y a considerable elevation, and by its form ; at a distance
it is like an island separated from tho low land to the South of it. Tho
month of tho bay is tilled up by a long and very low island. Its SouUi
point is abont a mile distant from Cape Glazonap, and its North mt above
2 miles from Capo Moffet. Tho depth in tho South entrance was found to
bo 41, and 5 fath(>ms, bottom of iiuo black sand. It was considered that
IztMibek Bay would olfor anchorage.

Jmak or jiamak hland lies off this part of tho coast. It is an extinct vol-
cano, covered with calcined stones and lava. It is rather less than 4 milos
in length, in a N. 17" W. and S. W E. direction. Its South oxtremity is
in Int. 55" 25', and long. 163" 1' 30". At 2 milos N.W. by compass from its
North end is a rock called the Sivotdchj (or Sea-lions) Eock. Between tho
island and the main tho depth is from 9 to 14 fathoms.

The coast to the northward presents nothing very remarkable. It trends
hrst N.E. and then E. For a distance of 50 miles there are only two capes,
Lcontovitch and Lcdoff, somewhat higher than the rest. In this space there
is much drift-wood. Cape Leontovitch is low, but is the most conspicuous,
as beyond it the coast trends more to tho East.

Ciij-e Jiyno/J' or lloahnoff, which is at tho extremity of the extent of coast
above alluded to, is very low ; and at IJ mile from it is tho western point of
liritskoi Island, also very low ; tho two form the entrance to a shallow bay,

* Cnplnin Lutko says, that in spelling this Aliaska he follows the orthography generally
ndoptcd in tho colonics. It wag somrtimes previously spi'lt Aliaksa. The natives pro-

rioiiiK

, it AUidsUia ; ^u that both moJcs .-.re right or wmng.

lo of tlin Amorlran

itos, as hoforo mon-
iir tiiHiv iH ronilorotl
iniiHtcrH, which may
uiit.

torn (Hiast has boon
lohipo, tlio Houthorii
I calU'd, tlio Hoa of
at tho point whero
[)y. Tho thartu aro

it to tlio nortliwartl.
VV. point of an open
(Morsos). Thia vil-
'OUH lakes.

ts 8.\V. point, Cape
•W.7. This capo is
form ; at a distanco
n South of it. Tho
V island. Its South
t» North 'nt abovo
itrant'O wns found to
was considered that

It is an extinct vol-
hor less than 4 miles
3 South extremity is

by compass from its
I Rock. Between the

imarltablo. It trends

are only two capes,

In this space there

the most conspicuous,

)f the extent of coast
\ the western point of
nee to a shallow bay,

the orthography generally
liaksu. The uatives pro-

MULLKU h\\

.'»|!t

which runs in to a low istlmuis, not morn tliau .0 vcrsls in hrcadlli, scpa-
riitinn it from Paviovskaia Hay, on tho South coast of Aliaska. The clmin
of mountains which extends throujjjh the peninsula is interrupted in this
part. Tiio rise of tho tide is LI feet, and tho (approxinmto) time of high
water is 7'' .'10'".

MOLLER BAY is a large indentation of tho land, wiiich narrows tiiu
I)oninsuia to 12 miles in breadth at this part. A larpt portion of tiiis bay is
filled with shoals, which uncover at low water; but in its H.E. angle is a
small cove, where there is sulRcicnt water for every doseription of vessels.
This is the only port whii'h oxists on all tiui North coast of Aliaska. It is
about a mile in length and breadth, with from 4J to 8 fathoms, muddy bot-
tom. In entering it you must range close to tho bod of tho gravel, to avoid
a slioal, which is less than a mile from it ; and as soon as yon have mado
out this bed of gravel, steer for a point on tlie East side of tlm port, which
is particidarly remarkable by its blackish colour, ami wlilch lies about 1^
mile N.E. by E. by compass, from i. e extremity of tho gravul bed. Tho
mountains, M-liich aro of a moderai'i iicight, advance here to the coast,
leaving no room for tho mossy plaii s v.hieh generally occupy the spaco be-
tween the foot of tho mountain' .ud th> sea-shoru.

The bay is about 6 miles wide in its opeiuug. Its entrance on tho West
side is formed by tho East point of Krittkni Mand, which was detonnined to
be in lat. .'i6° 0' 7", and long, loii^-tl' W. The extremity of tho bed of
gravel which forms the port is 7i miles to tho S.E. by E. (by compass) from
this. Kritskoi Island is very low, and extends 9 miles along tho coast in
an E. by N. direction. Opposite its West end is Cape Rojnoff, before
mentioned.

From Moller Bay the coast trends to the N. by E., and at 20 miles distant,
is Cape Koutouzoff. This cape is high and abrupt, and 13 mil(>s N.E. from it
is Cape Seniavine, also high and steep, tho spaco between being low. Capo
Seniavino is in lat. 56° 23' 46", and long. IGO-' 2' 4.5" W.

Tho coast beyond this offers nothing remarkable for a considerable dis-
tance. It consists of a low, level, mossy plain. At about 9 leagues from
Capo Seniavine a low bed of gravel commences, which extends in front of
the coast for 10 miles. Beyond this the low level coast extends 10 miles
further to Cape StrogonoJ'f. This is extremely low, and projects 2 miles to
the North.

Comte Heiden Bay (or Houdohin Bay) is formed by tho low Capo Strogo-
notf to tho westward. Before this capo is nn islet, equally low, ciillod on tho
chart Cheatakoff Islet, and between this islet, or rather between the shoal off
its North end and tho coast of tho continent, is the entrance of the bay,
which extends 6 miles to the S.E., and the opening is 2J miles broad.

From this the coi. -.t, equally low, uniform, and covered with moss, trends

.If

,1
(I

"wsmsum^s^

'■mmim^^smm^

liEnRING SEA.

to tho N.N.E. In lat. 5r o are two moderately high capes, terminating to
seaward in sandy downs.

Cape MencMkoff (named after tho Trinco) is in lat. 57° 30'.4, and long.
1 57° 58' 5 It consists of a mound of sand, with marshy land surroundmg
it on all sides. At 8 miles N.E. from this is the mouth of the Itiver Ougat-
chik, or Soulma, which is 2 miles broad. The depth in its entrance is from
10 to 18 feet at low water. The North point of its mouth is named Cape
Grcig, after tho Admiral. It is high and steep ; its lat. is 57" 43'. and long.
157^^ 47' 2 and is surrounded hy sand-hanks, dry at low water. From this
the coast trends, low, level, and straight, in a general N. 17^ E. direction to
tho moutli of the Agongak Eiver.

The River Agougak, or Ugagouh, Krusenstern considers to be the
northern limit of the Teninsula of Aliaska, as it really separates Aliaska
from the continent of America. It rises in a lake called Nanouantoughat,
which is only separated from tho Strait of Chelighoff by a neck of land 5
miles in breadth, at the back of the Bay of Pascalo. Over tliis space is a
portage for the merchandise coUoctod by the Russian- American Fur Com-
pany at the establishments in Bristol Bay, which was thus transported, by
moans of the river, to the head-quarters at Sitka.

Cape Tschitchagnff, on the Noi-th side, is bluff without being high, and sur-
rounded for 2 miles distant by shoals.

From this cape a level marshy coast succeeds. Its aspect is most extraor-
dinarily monotonous, for 30 miles in a N.E. by N. direction. Cape Souvoroff,
Avhich is at the distance above named, forms the North point of the mouth
of tho liiver Naneh or Naknek. This river, flowing from a lake of the same
name, traverses the Peninsula of Aliaska. At its mouth it is about two-
thirds of a mile in breadth, and there are 2 fathoms water in it. On each
side of the mouth are viUages. That to the right is Koutchougoumut, that to
the left Paongvigumut. Tho position of the latter, which is a Russian estab-
lishment, named Souvoroff, was ascertained to be in 58° 42' 5" N., and 157
0' 30" W. The River Nanek abounds with an extraordinary quantity

of fish.

BRISTOL BAY.-The coast we have been describing forms the southern
portion of the coast of the bay, that was named by Captain Cook after the
Admiral, the Earl of Bristol.

Capo Newenham forms the northern point of this bay, and Cape Ounimak,
the ^. extern point of the island of that name off Aliaska, may bo taken
as its southern limits, and which lies 82 leagues to the S.S.W. of Cape
Kowenham, so that the N.W. coas^t of -Jiaska forms tho southern part of

Bristol Bay.

This bay contains another inner bay, which is formed by a promontory,
named Cape Constai>ii»r. and within which three rivers debouch. The

i. i ii ^ l ^jjf )B lift i Utfc ' N ' JW i r"< ■ wM rN f . * ' " * 'W m r » ■ » ' .tmi /A i ff ^ 'M *^'' !'^ wj ji '

ir-wn-ortMliiaf"-

CAPE NEWENHAM.

521

pes, terminating to

(7° 30'. 4, and long.
y land siirrounding
of the Eiver Ougat-
ts entrance is from
uth is named Cape
is 57° 43'. and long.
• water. From this
. 17^ E. direction to

Dnsiders to be the
,y separates Aliaska
lied Nanouantoughat,
by a neck of land 5
)ver this space is a
American Fur Com-
;hus transported, by

being high, and sur-

ipect is most extraor-
tiori. Cape Souvoroff,
la point of the mouth
tn a lake of the same
onth it is about two-
s'ater in it. On each
'outchougoumut, that to
h is a Russian estab-
ii°42' 5"N., and 157"
ttraordinary quantity

g forms the southern
aptain Cook after the

y, and Cape Ounimak,

Jiaska, may bo taken

the S.S.W. of Cape

i the southern part of

tned by a promontory,
I'ivers debouch. Tho

northernmost of these is the Bristol River. The Onglaghmoutes (as the
natives of the bay are called) give it the name of Qiiitshak or Kvichak.

The third river which enters this inner bay, to the AV^est of the Bristol
Rivor, is called the Nouchagak or Nouahagak. Its course is in a N.N.W.
direction. The opening formed on the North by the coast, and by Cape
Constantino on the South, may be taken as its mouth, which is 20 miles
broad, and preserves this breadth to the distance of 30 miles ; it then turns
rather more to the eastward, and its breadth begins to diminish. In lat. 58°
57' the river is still 3 miles broad, and it is here, on the loft bank, that the
Russian Company founded an establishment, called Fort Alexandroffak. A
bank, 15 miles in length, lies before this establishment ; and it is between
this bank and the main land that there is a passage to the road of Alexan-
droffsk. The tides are very strong in the river ; they rise 23 feet in the
summer months, and 47 feet in the autumn. The ebb-tide runs from 4 to 5
miles an hour.

The extremity of Cape Constantino is in lat. 58° 29' N., and 158° 45' W.
It is surrounded by sand-banks to the distance of 4 leagues to the south-
ward. In general, all the coast between the mouths of the Nouchagak and
Bristol Rivers is bounded by similar sand-banks. The eastern point of this
bay, forming this entrance, is named Cape Etoline. The bay itself is called
Khramtschenko Bay, after the Russian surveyor.

From Cape Constantino the coast takes a westerly direction, and forms,
with Cape Newenham, an extensive bay of 35 leagues in extent, into which
the two rivers, Kululak and Tujugiak, discharge themselves. There are
several islands in this bay. Cook only saw the easternmost, which he named
Round Island. It is an elevated hill, about 7 miles from the continent. At
the distance of 20 miles to the West of Roimd Island is a larger one, about
50 miles in circumference, which has been named JTagemeister Island, after
the captain of that name, who was for some time commander of the Russian
Company's colonies here. Between this point and Round Island there are
four other islands in a N.E. direction. Lieut. Khramtschenko passed be-
tween these islands, and between the main land and Hagemeister Island.
This channel is about 8 miles in length, and it may be passed through
either from the North or South ; the anchorage in it is safe throughout.

CAFE NEWENHAM is 5 leagues to the West of this bay. It was seen
by Captain Cook, July 16th, 1778. It is a rocky point of tolerable height,
situated in lat. 58° 42', long. 197° 36'. Over, or within it, are two elevated
hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost. Is the

highest.

Off the v.-esternmo8t point of the cape there is a small island, according to
the Russian charts, named Sea Lions' Island. From Cape Newenham the
coast trends to the northward, as before stated, and here commence the
sund banks and shoals lying before the mouth of the great river Kuskowime,

:31ili^TsW^^^^ia^tS^^^i-W*S'S^^«K;SW-^^^?W- -

III '

522 BEHEINO SEA.

or Kouskoquim, which discharges itself into the sea in lat. 59"^ 50', and which
was explored by Liouts. Khramptschenko and Etoline.

To the N.E. of Cape Newenham is Tchagvan Bay, 4* miles long and 3
l.road. It is 2 cables' length in width at the entrance, the sides of which are

lined with shoals.

The Ba;/ of Good News is 16 miles to the North of Tchagvan Bay. It was
reached by the land expedition of Oustugoff and Korsakoff in 1818-19. If
it received its name from the reports gathered of some white-bearded men
on the banks of the Kvikhpak Eiver, it would bo more properly called the
Bay of False Alarms. It was examined inl 821 by M. Etoliae. From his
observations, the extremity of the gravel bed, which bounds the opening of
the bay to the North, is in lat. 39= 3' 9", long. 161° 53'. Cape Newenham
bears S. 24° W. 24 miles from it. It penetrates H miles in an E.N.E. di-
rection, and is 6i miles broad. Its shores are surrounded with shoals, so
that theve is only good anchorage in the middle, and that not too far in. In
entering keep on the North side.

NTJNIWACK ISLAND* was discovered by Capt. Wassilieff in 1821. It
is to the N.W., and 40 leagues distant from Cape Newenham. It is 70 miles
in extent from East to West, and about half that in breadth. Its N.E. ex-
tremity is in lat. 60° 32' N., long. 165° 30' W. ; and its S.E. point is 60° N.,
and 165° 3' W. A channel, 20 miles in breadth, separates it from the con-
tinent, which here forms a large cape in lat. 60° 44' N., long. 165° W., dis-
covered by M. Etoline, to which he gave the name of Cape Vancouver, and
that of Cook to the strait.

Its N.E. extremity lies 18 or 19 miles to S. 82° W., true, from Cape

Vancouver. Its West extreme, which forms a moderately high, steep cape,

is in lat 60° 13'. From this the coast on one side trends to E.N.E. , and on

the other to S.E. by compass. In approaching it from the West, the islard

presents a level coast, not high, and terminating to seaward in reddish

cliffs There are several places where anchorage may be found ; but the best

place is in the strait on the continental side, where the depth is 6 to 8

fathoms, gravel bottom. „ ..,, t^ • *

Cape Avinoff, the S.E. limit of this strait, is m lat. 59 42 It is not

high but at a distance resembles an island. It is surrounded by shoals

to the distance of 7 or 8 miles, so that it cannot be approached even in a

boat within this distance. This bank lines the coast as far as Cape Van-

couver itself. i <.. it *

CAPE EOMANZOFF, or Roumiantsoff, was thus named after the great

• Nuniu-ack, or, aeit is otherwise spelt, Nounn-ak, or Kou.a-ok (Lutko , was so named by
the company's officers, Etoliuo and Khramtschenko. who, simultaneously w.th WHss.leff,
^^ZJ^ in 1821, after the native appellation. The latter caUed it, from his slup,
DUcovery Uland, but the first name is far the best.

u^utjiiu i j i frw^ ^' w wwi— WW— ^ ■i*"*'- '' '^* !' " ■■"^

)9" 50', and which

miles long and 3
sides of which are

agvan Bay. It was
Bf in 1818—19. If
ichite-be^rded men
properly called the
Itoliue. From his
nds the opening of
Cape Newenham
J in an E.N.E. di-
led with shoals, so
b not too far in. In

isilieff in 1821. It
iham. It is 70 miles
idth. Its N.E. ex-
!.E. point is 60° N.,
es it from the con-
ong. 165° W., dis-
ipe Vancouver, and

W., true, from Capo
ily high, steep cape,
3 to E.N.E. , and on
he West, the islar.d
seaward in reddish
B found ; but the best
the depth is 6 to 8

59° 42'. It is not
urrounded by shoals
ipproached even in a
18 far as Cape Van-
ned after the great

[Liitko), was 80 named by

Micously with Wagsilieff,

called it, from his ship,

THE YUKON RIVER.

523

.statesman by MM. Khramptschenko and Etolino, although Capt. Schisch-
mareff had already seen it two months previously, that is, in June, 1821. It
forms the western extremity of the vast and marshy delta of the Yukon or
Kwuh-pak Eiver. M. Etolino determined its lat. as fil^ ."iS'; M. Khramts-
clionko as OP 50' 5 ' ; and its long, was deduced as KUr 28'. It is thus about
8ij miles N.W. from Cape Vancouver. It is high and bluO', and in the mid-
dle of August was still partly covered with snow, wliich well distinguishes
it from the low and sandy shores to the North and South of it. It is en-
tirely free from wood, like the adjacent coasts. Seen from a great distance,
it shows like islands.

The YUKON or KWICH-PAK RXVER is one of the largest of North-
Wost America ; yet our knowledge of its existence dates from very recent
times. Its character was first made known to Europe by the Expedition in
1850 — 1, and one of Captain (now Admiral) CoUinson'a officers. Lieutenant
Barnard, was killed at Nulato by the natives, in ascending it. But the offi-
cers of the Eussian-American Company first ascended it in 1835. Derabin
went from Norton Sound to the river in 1839, and in 1842 commenced the
Fort at Nulato, which long bore his name. It was visited in the same year
by Lieutenant Zagoskin, I.R.N., who made many observations here.

Tho Yukon or Kwich-pak (pronounced Kwif-pak, both words signifying
" big river"), is an immense stream. At Nulato, 600 miles above its mouth,
but only 50 miles from the head of Norton Sound, the river is from li to 4
or 5 milos wide, and it has been ascended, still as a large stream, for 1,800
miles. Its tributaries would be large streams in Europe. But all this mag-
nificence of nature seems doomed to be almost useless to man.

At one period it was of the greatest interest to civilization. It was selected
by the Western Union Telegraph Company as the route by which the tele-
graph wires were to connect the New and the Old World ; and, as before
stated, this gigantic enterprise had far advanced, when in 1867, the success
of the Atlantic cable led to its sudden abandonment, an event which caused
so much sorrow in those employed on it, that they hung black cloth on the
telegraph poles at Unalachleet, in Norton Sound, and put them into
mourning.

Mr. Frederick Whymper's admirable work on his travels in Alaska, and
on the Yukon, will give many most interesting particulars of this enterprise
and of the river.*

The Yukon enters Norton Sound by many mouths, forming an extensive
»lelta. The turbid waters have so filled up the head of the sound, that
it is very shallow, and tho water is fresh ten miles out to sea.

Tho various entrances were examined by Mr. E. Everett Smith, attached
to the telegraph party, and he found that the southern mouth, the Koosilvac,

• Slc al-io Joiunal of the Royal Ooographiciil Society, vol. xxxviii, 1868, pp. 210—236.

smmmssm'

524 BEHRINO SEA.

gave from 2J to 9 fathoms, but the entrance to it is far out. T»^« ;»*-"-■
diate markB to the North are too shallow, and the Aphoon Mouth, m lat.
63° 10 N long. 164= 5', is the only available one. Those mouths are gene-
Lily bl^Ld with ice till June 1st. Atthis mouth is Pastolik, a village famous

for the manufacture of skin boats.

The coast trends to the N.E. beyond Pastohk, and termxnates at Stuart
iBland when it turns to the southward towards Fort Michaelovsk,
Islana, wnen ly .,,.,,» o., it is 6 or 7 leagues in circuit. Some

Stuart Island lies in lat. 63 35 . it is o or « f ,

parts of it are of a moderate height; but in general it is low with some
rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is for the mo t
" Uol land, but high land is seen up the country. It forms a point oppo-
se the island, which was named by Cook Cape Stepk^, ^^'^'X^^^'^, ^
•^r lon^ 197° 41'. Some drift-wood was seen upon the shores both of the
fsland and of the continent, but not a tree was perceived growing upon

"tIo inhabitants of Norton Sound are entirely dependant on this drift-
wood^ brought down by the great river Yukon, and which is found on almost

-"Z^^^^ to the S.E. of Stuart Island, is 50 miles n.th
eastward from the Aphoon Mouth. It can scarcely be called an island, as it
iB separated from the main only by an insigniBcant canal.

StLout Bay. called by Cook CUcUoole, is an open bay tothenorth-
.a?d !f Saelouski, between Capes Denbigh and Stephens. It is sur-
r nded by a low shore, where the water is so shoal that as before mentioned,
there is no passage for ships between Besborough Island and the main,

""l^^J^ North side of Cape Stephens, at U miles to the
Eas of^North extremity of Stuart Island, is a cove discovered by Lieut.
^'Ikoff in 1831. It penetrates U miles to the S.S.W., and is closed on
I; stth by small Jisland. on each side of which is a strait. The bay
Tnot :1 than a mile broad. At its West extremity are two islets, very
1 .n th« coast As fax as the middle of the bay there are 21 to 24
;:ro water 1 anchorage under the West side, opposite the village,
•: on^y Ixposed to N.N. W and N.E. ; but even with these winds there is

"rOET MICHAELOVSKI is on the West side. South of the villages.
HM.Sn came here in September. IMS. and Dr. Seemann thus de
•^1« the Dlace The Fort of St. Michael, or Michaelofskoi, belongs to the

Eut n W can Fur Company, and supplies two other trading posts.
Eussian Ame ^^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^ i^^j_

^'le sS^t: oT;:^^^^^^^^ in la. 63° 21', long. 161° 51' W.. and
Tbu tttet: of a square, composed of trunks of trees, which are laid
loM\y over each other, in the manner of the American block-houses.

out. The interme-
thoon Mouth, in lat.
e mouths are gene-
?«';!;, a village famous

rminatea at Stuart
ihaelovski.
B in circuit. Some
is low, with some
lont is for the most
forms a point oppo-
I, and lies in lat. 63°
I shores both of the
eived growing upon

ndant on this drift-
ch is found on almost

is 50 miles north-
jalled an island, as it
il.

pen bay to the north-
Stephens. It is sur-
, as before mentioned,
[sland and the main,

ns, at 11 miles to the
I discovered by Lieut.
VV., and is closed on

is a strait. The bay
r are two islets, very
ly there are 21 to '24

opposite the village,
L these winds there is

outh of the villages.
)r. Seemann thus de-
ilofskoi, belongs to the
. other trading posts,
little tongue of land,
ong. 161° 51' W., and
f trees, which are laid
.merican block-houses.

FORT ^IICHAELOVSKI.

625

At each angle is a watch-tower, with loopholes ; within the walls are the
various store and dwelling houses ; close by, a chapel, consecrated to the
rites of the Greek Church ; and at a short distance a windmill for grinding
corn. Grain is imported by way of Sitka, St. Michael's itself not producing
it, nor indeed any cultivated vegetables, except a few turnips. About four
hundred yards from the fort is an Esquimaux village, the inhabitants of
which are a much finer-looking race than the more northern tribes. The
country adjacent is, like the greater part of the arctic regions, a vast
moorland.

Mr. Frederick Wliymper cnmo here with the telegraph party in 1865, and
he says of it :— " It is situated on the S.E. side of the island of the same
name, and was founded in 1833, by Michael Tcbenkoff, an energetic employe
of the Russian Fur Company.

" The station is built on the model of a Hudson's Bay Company's Foi-t,
with enclosure of pickets, and with bastions flanking it. Inside are the
store-houses and dwellings of the oniployoH, including the ' casino ' {caserne),
or general barrack, bath, and cook-uouses. These painted yellow, and sur-
mounted by red roofs, gave it rather a gay appearance.

" The inhabitants of the fort— all servants of the company— were a very
mixed crowd, including pure Russians and Finlanders, Yakutz, from Eastern
Siberia, Aleuts, from the islands, and Creoles from all parts. They were
not a very satisfactory body of men ; in point of facL, it ia said that some of
them had been criminals, who had been convicted m St. Petersburgh, and
offered the alternative of going to prison, or into the service of the Russiaa-
American Company !"

The entrance into the cove is not at all difficult. After reaching Stuart
Island you can run parallel with the coast at the distance of a mile in not
less than 4 fathoms water ; then you can range very close to the two islets
on the West side of the cove. Coming from the North you must make either
Beshorough or Egg Islands ; the first lies N. 5° W. from the cove, and the
second at 9 miles N.N.E. by compass. Effg Island is smaller and lower than
Besborough. The latitude of the anchorage is 63° 28' 30", the longitude

161° 52' W.

TJnalachleet, or Unalaklih, is 48 miles north-eastward of Michaelovski.
It is at the mouth of a small river of the same name, and is the most
northern settlement on the coast, a Russian trading post founded in 1840.
According to Lieutenant Zagoskin, it is in lat. 63° 53' 33" N., long. 160° 30'
16". It resembles St. Michael's in being enclosed by a picket, but is other-
wise on a much smaUer and poorer scale. The head man had but one room
for himself and family. The "casine" was occupied by several men with
families, and by an immense number of cockroaches, apparently with families
also. To the N.W. of the post was a large village of Malemute and Koriak

w www wi' ilj i» ui| i WMMmW > fr

't^

;(

■iM

jji*

[

5,26 BEHEING SEA.

ludians, a race of tall and stout pooplo, but in other rospocts much roP.Mii-

bling the Esquimaux.— (Whympor.)

The main stream of the Yucon is not more than 35 miles distant from
this part of the coast.

nedorouffh Island vf^B seen at 15 leagues off by Cook, and though it lies 6
or 7 miles from the continent, has no channel inside it for ships, on account
of the shallowness of the water.

Cape Denbigh is 17 leagues from Besborough Island, in a direction N.
27" E. It is the extremity of a peninsula, united to the continent by a low
neck of land, on each side of which the coast forms a bay, that to the south-
ward being the Chaktolimout Bay just mentioned.

The whole of the beach around the bay seemed to be covered with drift-
wood ; but on account of the shoals, which extend quite around, to the dis-
tance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, it is impossible to get it oflf.

The head of Norton Sound was partiaUy explored by Mr. King, one of
Cook's officers. From the heights, on the West side of the inlet, the two
coasts were seen to join, and the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek,
before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal water.

Bald Head forms the north-western limit of this inner sound, and is 2n
miles to the northward of Cape Denbigh. On the West side of Bald Head
the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach. At about 20
miles to the W.S.W. of this point the coast projects out into a bluff head,
composed of perpendicular strata of a rock of a dark-blue colour. The
soundings off this shore are very shoal, not being more than 6 fathoms at a
league off, and decreasing to 3 and under to the eastward. The coast con-
tinues in a S.W. direction as far as Cape Darby, where it turns to the
North and West.

Cape Darby is in lat. 64" 21', long. 197°. Captain Cook anchored off it
in a quarter less 5 fathoms, half a league from the coast, the South of which
bore S. 26° W. ; Bald Head, N. 60° E. 26 miles distant ; and Besborough
Island S. 52° E. 15 leagues distant. All the drift-wood in these northern
parts was fir.

Golovnine Bay.— On the West side of Cape Darby is Golovnine Bay, dis-
covered in 1821 by Captain Khramtschenko. The natives here term it Td-
chik. Its opening is limited on the East by Cape Darby, and on the West
by Cape Kamennoi, or Eocky, lying 7 miles W.N.W. of the first. The latter
cape was so called from a flat and bare rock close to it. These two capes are
high and steep, but Cape Darby is the highest. The bay extends first to
North, and then to N.W. At 3 miles to the North of Cape Kamennoi,
there is a bed of gravel across it, running off to the East from the West
side. At 2 miles from the East side of the bay, which is opposite to it, it is
terminated by a reef of uncovered rocks, which, at a distance, is ex-

K -T.I iMM f M WI^p j i JJ IIII llW I t H !■■ , ' -

POINT RODNEY— rORT CLARENCE.

527

pccts much TOP .Mil -

miles distant from

nd though it lies 6
ships, on account

in a direction N.
jontinont by a low
', that to the souch-

covered with drift-
around, to the dis-
t it oflf.

■ Mr. King, one of
' the inlet, the two
imall river or creek,
B shoal water.
r sound, and is 20
!; side of Bald Head
Bach. At about 20
; into a bluff head,
-blue colour. The
ban 6 fathoms at a
d. The coast con-
lere it turns to the

look anchored off it
, the South of which
t ; and Besborough
1 in these northern

Golovnine Bay, dis-
res here term it Taf-
7, and on the Wes^t
;he first. The latter
These two capes are
bay extends first to
of Cape Kamennoi,
i]ast from the West
8 opposite to it, it is
a distance, is ex-

tremely like an artificial pier or mole, whence it is called the Stone Mole, or
Eamennaia Pristan.

There is anchorage in all parts of the outer bay as far as the Stone Mole :
bring it to bear from W. to "W.S.W. ; within this the depth rapidly de-
creases. The bay is perfectly clear throughout ; but, as it is open to winds
from the South, the anchorage is not without some danger from this cause.

The time of high water, the establishment, is &" 23"". At full moon it
rises 3 feet 8 inches.

The inner bay communicates with the outer by a narrow gullet. At its
head a large river discharges by five mouths, which makes the water of the
bay fresh.

Kalishka or Gan'shkn, a fishing station of the Russian Company, is on this
coast. Mr. Bourchier, R.N., of H.M.S. Plover, travelled from it by sledges
to Grantley Harbour in 19 days, March — April, 1851.

Aziak, or Ayak Island, called by Cook Sledge Island, on account of a sledge
being found by him on it, is 10 or 12 miles S.E. J E. of Cape Rodney. Its
latitude is there given as 64° 30'. Its longitude will be about 166°. M.
Tebenkoff" thinks it is a mile in circuit. He describes it ps a rock rising 642
feet above the water. A low point projects on its North side ; and, on the
East, a village stands on the slope of the rugged coast. The island may be
approached on all sides. The anchorage is bad to the East ; the bottom is
of large stones. It is better to the North, near the point, although the
current runs here 3 knots, but the bottom is much better.

Oukivok, or King Island of Captain Cook, is a rock 756 feet in height, not
more than a mile in circuit, and din's on all sides. There is a village,
the houses excavated in the rocks, on a rugged slope, at 150 feet above
the sea.

POINT BODNET is a low point to the N.W. i W. of Sledge Island.
Point Rodney being low, and the water shallow, it is difficult to land. From
the beach to the foot of the mountain there is a plain about 2 miles wide,
covered with lichens and grass, upon which Captain Beechey observed several
herds of reindeer feeding. Upon the beach is a greater abundance of drift-
wood than is found on other parts of the coast. About 2 miles from the
coast the country becomes mountainous, and far inland rises to peaked hills
of great height, covered with perennial snow.

FORT CLABENCE, which was explored and named by Captain Beechey,
August, 1827,* is 5 leagues to the northward of Point Rodney. It was
passed unnoticed by Cook in his passage through the strait, but this is not
surprising, form the charactter of the land forming it.

• Port Clarence was for a long time previouslj- known to the Russians as Kaviayak Bay,
but thoy did not know that it contained its excellent port. — Lutlce.

Ti7?f?5S5^33rsrTir-!S?iT:r

628

BEniUNa SEA.

Point 8pmcer,i\^^ North extremity of alow spit of land projecUng a,, mt
10 miles f!om the coast, fonns the southern protection of tins spac.ous luu.-
bour. Itherefonnsa right angle, having a channel about 2 "ulos . <
b tween its extremity and the northern shore. This souther s.de of 1 ..
Clarence is a low diluvial formation, covered with grass and xntersected by
nJow channels and lakes. It projects from a range of ch Is wh.h app.a
Xe been once upon the coast, and sweopmg round, termmates .n the low
shingly point before named, Point Spencer.

Near Point Spencer the bea.h has been forced up, by some extraordinary
pressure into ridges, of which the outer one, 10 or 12 feet above the sea, .s
ThZh St. Upon Ind about the., ridges there was a great cpant.ty of
^^uLber, but more on the inner side of the point than on the outer.

OB-ANTLEY HAEBOTJH forms an inner harbour to the extensive and ex-
ceUent bay just described. The channel into it from the outer harbour is
elmely narrow, the entrance being contracted by two sandy spits ; but th
water is deep, and in one part there is not less than 12 fathoms At tlH.
Cer nd of the harbour is a second strait, about 300 yards in width.
ZLed between steep cUffs ; but this channel, too, is contracted by sandy

^tThese two ports," says Captain Beechey, " situated so near Behring
Strait, may, at some future time, be of great importance to navigation, as
they will b found particularly useful by vessels which may not wish to pas
le strait in bad wJather. The outer harbour, which for convenience and
L'ity suirasses any other near Behring Strait with wluch we are a -
TZJoA, iTttached the name of Port Clarence, in hom.ur of his most gra-
rorMa esty, then Duke of Clarence. To the inner, which is well adapted
X p^oL of repair, and is sufficiently deep to receive a frigate, pro-
ved iXds herU.-b-h can be conveniently done upon the sandy
r^t at the entrance, I gave the name of Grantley Harbour, m comphmont to

Lord Grantley." ,

Point Spencer is in lat. 65» 16' 40", long. 166» 47' 50" W. High water,
full and change, in the port, 4" 25". , ^ ,

Point JacUon, named, like the last, from a distinguished naval officer, forms
the North side of the entrance to Port Claxence. Off it Uie water is more
shallow than usual.

The harbour has frequently afforded refuge and shelter to our ships sinco
Admiral Beechey surveyed it. The Franklin Search Expedition of 1848-
ts^ which went vi. Behring Strait, made it more or less the. head
auar^ers. H.M.S. Enterprise, Captain Colhnson, caane here m 1851 The
^b2 Captain Moore, and afterwards Captain Maguire, was stationed her
as a reserve or store ship to the other vessels engaged in the search m 18.
!!r853 H M S. BattUmake, Commander TroUopo, also wintered here Oct.

OAPR PHINCE OK WALKS— ]?KIII{IX(i STKAIT.

ri"]'.)

nd, projottingal)()iit
3t' this spacious har-
about 2 luilos wiilo
)utliom sido of Port
, and intoraoctod by
f diil's wliieh appear
borminatcs in tho low

f some extraordinary
feet above tlio sea, is
a great cpiantity of
an on the outer,
the extensive and ex-
the outer harbour is

sandy spits ; but the
12 fathoms. At the
300 yards in width,

a contracted by sandy

ated so near Behring
ince to navigation, as

1 may not wish to pass
1 for convenience and
dth which we are ac-
)n(.ur of his most gra-
, which is well adapted
receive a frigate, pro-
done upon the sandy

rbour, in complimont to

50" W. High water,

shed naval officer, forms
f it the water is more

helter to our ships since
I Expedition of 1848—
Lore or less their head
me here in 1851. The
uire, was stationed hero
3d in the search in 1851
also wintered hero Oct.

.5th, 18.').'1 — .lujio 18.')1, so lliat thisromoto iiiid scqiic-tmiMl spot has ri'ccivi il
iiuii'li iitlciition.

tiiuutlcy Harbour, after tliis, sprang suddenly into short livcil iinpnrtiiiico
ill 18()6 — 7, as it was the spot selectod for the landing of tlit- Hehring
Strait electric cable from the Asiatic shore. During the winter of 1800 — 7.
(,'ai)taiu Llbby, of the Western Union Tclegrajili Service, wintered here,
and spent thi; summer, with 40 men, leaving a godd station and oilier houses
when the enterprise was abimdoned. It is a central ])oiiit at which the na-
tives of Kotzebue and Nortim Sound, and the neiglibouring coniitry, meet
the Tchuktcliis from the Siberian coast. Afany w-halors anninilly visit this
harbour for trading purposes, and Mr. Whymper says that it is possible that
a permanent white settlement miglit be formed in this remote place. It is
a good spot to winter in, but supplies from the resources of the country are
very uncertain.

Cape York, immed after the Duke of York, is a bold promontory, and
near it there is probably a river, called Yuup-uut by the natives. Krom hcnice
to Cape I'rince of Wales the coast is of quite a diiferent (character to that to
the northward of the latter, being bounded by steep, rocky cliffs, and broken
by deep valleys, while the other is low, swampy ground.

CAFE PRINCE OF WALES is the westernmost extreme of America.
This celebrated promontory is the western termination of a peaked mountain,
which, being connected with the main by low ground at a distance, has the
appearance of being isolated. The promontory is bold, and remarkable by
a number of ragged points and large fragments of rock lying upon the ridge
which connects the cape with the peak. About a mile to the northward of
the cape some low land begins to project from the foot of the mountain,
taking iirst a northerly, and then a north-easterly direction, to Schischma-
reif Inlet.

Twelve miles inland the country becomes mountainous, and is remarkable
for its sharp ridges. The altitude of one of the peaks, which is nearly
the highest in the range, is 2,596 feet. The.se mountains, being covered
with snow, when the Blossom was here, (August, 1827), gave the country a
very wintry aspect.

Off the cape is a very dangerous shoal, stretching to the N.E. from it. It
takes the direction of the current, and is extremely dangerous, in conse-
quence of the water shoaling so suddenly.

BEHRING STRAIT separates America from Asia. A vessel sailing in
mid-channel can see both continents at once. Between Cape Prince of
Wales and the East Cape of Asia, it is about 37 miles wide, but at its nar-
rowest part are the Diomodo Islands. It is, as has been before stated, very
shallow, not exceeding from 26 to 30 fathoms in depth, and much of it less
than this, so that it will not admit of any deep floating i(;e bergs to driit
.southwards. On this account it was considered that a submarine telegvapli
North Pacific. 2 m

^ ' K^^V%i«^S'wyi:Av.S's&"=Ei*i-i. y'i-'k'--

to tl(wcribo it, it in Uoro onuttcd.

.„.i.. Ko.«obue imagiuo.! tl«t ho a» a /™r ». H. 1 ._

.1 ro.t by Captain B««hoy, in tUo Bhrnm, m 1»26. Ibey

captain BoeoHoy *o ^'f^^^f* :::^r^r: ^eln, eHann..,,

thi, region Oo:8l>«->-*- J "^J^^^,, ^a wa, namod, after the A.L

which i. the ".<"»' ;;^ *-«'. tX above-mentioned auU,ority, Igna-lool,
mirol, Krmfn>lem hla»d, and by 'ho aD ^^^^ ^^^.^^^ ,,^

It i. an i.and .ith pe^nto^ J^' -* » «;^^, ,^ ,„^.^„ je^hey
north-western one, which is tao larg - ^ Noo-narbook

.fte, Kotzebuo., .nppo.JJ.-e'y.^ ^^^^^^ „, ,.^,„.,„

I Z Z^ il'^ion-tilrU «. »- '- "*^ -■"• ""
""l^n. Cape Wn^o of Wale, the coaat trend, to the northwarf, the wat„
being .hallow just to the North of It. ^ „,„„ain.r alonit it. The land

for 35 miles to the entrance of Schischmareff Inlet.

^T v^.. thus described the shores of Alaska, and the adjacent islands in

jr:r::::Hr..ai..de.™^o.hedeta^^^^^^^

-rir r ritr X: -e, coo. BiUing., Ke.»
bue,Beechey, and other navigators.

ST LAWEENCE ISLAND.-This island -s the northernmost of thus
V h hf^ the open sea. It was discovered by Behi-ing on St. Lawrem.
I^Aug^t lOth 17.8. He stated that he passed by it without observ.
anything Pa^i-lar on it except the cottages of some fishermen.

■ Si4K«i?*WVJA!*>«'iT

ST. MATTIIKW ISl.WD.

5»1

tslitii. on lilt' Silmriiui

•iiuw.

■ tho (MiltTpriHi) of llio

[ ihv bulk of this wt)rk

jcciipyhiR a coTispu^vioiiH
irost points of tho two
tho vory narrowont por-

a8 t.^ tlioir real mimb(>r.

3re in tho middle of tlio

Tho Hnhjoct was si't

26. Thoy are three iii

square rock, named by
ive who drew a chart of
to tho eastern channel,
ran named, after tho Ad-
aed authority, Igna-look.
surface. The third, or
aed by Captain Beechey,
hland, and Noo-narbook
nthward, and tominatea,
th small rocky points olt

the northward, tho water

inding along it. The land
liout anything remarkable

3t.

nd the adjacent islands in
tached islands now belong-
In this we have derived
itke, Cook, Billings, Kotzo-

the northuruniost of those
■ Behi-ing on St. Lawrence's
ssed by it without observing
some fishermen.

was Hiwn by Cajit.

dill Uol cltisiTVC fill'

Captain Cook gavn it tho nnnio of <'lir/.r /s/iiiul. It
Kot/nbins who »!xmninod tht> Kast and S.E. sidrs. luit
union of the Enst and Wi'st portions.

From tills causo, beyond d<nil)t, thr islandn MacariuH, St. Sti'iilicn, St.
Thoodorc, and St. Abraham of Liciitcnant Syndt, aro only tho higlior liilln,
which ai'o all that an* wtM-n of St. Lawromo at a distance, r'nok tlins nanitMl
a part of its extrcmo Anderson Island.

Tn 1828 Captain Sehischnniretr nuule a detailed examination of its sliore.^,
with the oxcoption of that part examined by his former eomnumdi'r, Capt.
Kotzobuo, in 1817. On tho S.W. side is a small open bay, where tho ofTicorH
of tho Ilurirk landed ; this spot is readily recognised by the small rocky
island in its vicinity.

From these examinations it appears that tho island is above 29 leagues in
extent from East to West. Tho N.W. point, to which Admiral Krusonstern
has given tho name of the Russian surveyor SvhiHchmareff Point, is in lat.
63- 46' N., long. 188» 19' E.

A vory projecting point on the North side of the island is in lat. 61}° 12'
N., long. 159° 60' W. Captain Kotzebue places the eastern point of tho
island in lat. 03" 18', long. 168° 48'.

The island which Cook saw near this point, in lat. 63'= 10', long. l.')9-= 50',
is composed, according to Kotzebue, of two islands ; Schischmnreff says
there are throe. The inhabitants call tho eastern part of the coast AWi/a-
lak, and the western Chihoho. Tho eastern point of tho island is named Cupe
Anderson, and hero an historic doubt existed.

A shoal of 1 1 fathoms was found by tho JHos^Kom precisely in the situation
assigned to a small island named by Cook after his respected surgeon, Mr.
Anderson. This island had neror boon seen after, and tho veracity of the
great navigator had been in consequence impeached. Captain Beochey, how-
ever, rectifies this error, having found that it was intended for tho East end
of St. Lawrence Island.
We have no detailed description of the shores, or capabilities of the

island.

ST. MATTHEW ISLAND.— This island was discovered by Lieut. Syndt,
in Aiigust, 1766. Captain Cook, ignorant of this circumstance, considered
it as a new discovery in 1778, and called it Oore Island. He only saw the
S.E. part from a distance, and probably only made out tho snudl island
lying separately to the North, which the Russian promychlenniks call
Morjovi or Morse Island. Since Cook's time it has been seen by several
Russian navigators. Sarj-tschoff anchored here ; Schischmareff passed close
to it. On the Russian charts it has always borne its original name. Matvoi,
or St. Matthew ; but to preserve the name by Cook, Liitke has called thw
West extremity of the island Ca^e Gore.

. 2m2

:jS3EPS535SBS!3?i:^S«»N^HWW,,(/:\-U'Ac*:"

a:)2

UKIIUING SKA.

Ht. Matthow iHland linn N.W. mi-l S.K., luul in a diiwt lino Ih 27 miU
long, and H to 44 in br.uidth. lU nhonm conHint partly of hi^'I. rocks, partly
of low liiiid. Tli.^ H.K. .'Xtri'iuity <>i' tl... iHlai.d, nioKt jUMlly call.d l.y Cook
Cape rpriijhl, riH,.H out of tin- wut.'r likn u wall to thr l.ciKiil of 1, JOO f.'.t.
TliiH iM tho hlKlK'st point of tho inland. It falls Ruddi'nly to flin N.W.,
forming u vory low and vory narrow iHthmiiH ; not boing Hoon hoyond 4 or 6
mikm, cuUHOS Capo Upright, ovon at this distan.-, to appear m a s..parnt..
inland. Heyoud this iHthmus, tlio island inrroasoH in broadth and clovation,
and thon again rontra<;tH, forming anoth.>r isthmus, similar to the first, at '.»
milos from it, then a third, from whi.h fommtion, Ht. Matthow at a distan.,.
appears like sovoral islands. The 8.E. or outer point of Capo Upright is in
hit. GO" 1«, and long. ITl" i' .

At 12 miles W. (>" N. from this capo is Sugarloaf Cape, tlius named from
an extremely romarkablo mountain which surmounts it. This mountain is
1,438 feet in height, and on every side appears as an irr.fgular ccme, tlu-
only one on the island. Between Cape Sugarloaf and Cape Upright an.
two bays, entirely unprotected, sun-ounded by low shores. On the North
side of the Sugarloaf is a similar bay, and an isthmus similar to that
connecting Capo Upright. From this towards tho N.W. as far as the W. ex-
treme, Cape Gore, are almost periiondicular rocks, intersected in many parts

by ravines.

Cape Gore terminates to seawar. u a low cliff. Off it aro some rocky
islets. At 9 miles North from the .ape, and 3 from tho North end of tho
island, on tho coast quite by itself, is a remarkable rock, of a rhoml idal

form.

The North point of the island, namod by Captain Liitke after Captain
Sarytschoff's vessel, is in lat. 60° 38', and long. 172° 41'. It is stee,', but
much lower than Capo Upright. The eastern shore of tho island much re-
sembles the opposite cm;. There are cormsponding bays on either side,
which fonn tho narrow isthmuses.

jVurjovi Inland is steep on every part except the S.W. Its North ex-
treme, in lat. Mf W, and long. 172° 52', c(pials Capo Upright, in eleva-
tion, and much resembles it. The South end extends in o low point to

the S.E.

Pinnacle Island, justly so named by Cook, lies 16 miles "W.S.W. from
Oapo Upright. Two sides, nearly perpendicular, unite at the elevation of
090 feet in a pointed crest, with a number of pointed rocks on it. At the
steep S.W. extremity are some isolated rocks ; and the N.E. point termi-
nates in an entire range of connected and extraordinary pointed rocks.

The shores of St. Matthew are clear, and the depth very great. There
might not be great difiieulty in landing in fine weather in the bays. Tho
island is not inhubited, and is scai-cely capable of being bo. The formation
of the island is volcanic.

,( :.;Jii )

im't lino in 27 milt'K
of lii^'i rixkn, |)artly
ustly riillfil liy < 'ooU

hci^rlit of 1,»0() ff.L

l.l.iily to tho N.W..
g Hoon l)oyon(l 4 or 6
i (ippciir iiH a Hoparntc
'oiulth niid olovutiiiii,
lilar to tlio first, at !t
klattluw at a (lintancc
jf (^ipo Uprij^lit in ill

pe, tlius named from
it. This mountain is
III irrt^gular couc, the
ind Capo Upright urii
horos. On the North
lunus H'mihir to that
. as far us tlio W. ex-
srsDctod in many parts

Iff it are some rocky
tho North ond of tho
rock, of a rhoml idul

I Liitke after Captain
° 41'. It iH stee^i, but
f tho island much re-
j bays on either side,

S.W. Its North ex-
ipo Upright, in elova-
ads in a low point to

.6 mUes W.S.W. from
dte at the elevation of
rocks on it. At the
the N.E. point termi-
ry pointed rocks,
th very great. There
ther in the bays. Thu
ng BO. The formation

rRimjII,()FF ISLANDS.

Thodo nrfl a group of thr»'o Hmall rocky itdandH, two of whidi w(>rn din-
covered by M. I'ribuiloff, in 1768; thin officer was under Captain HillingH'
c:;podition, in 17U0. At first they worn (ailed Aory (new) ; then /Afderdt,
from the name of tho owner of the veHsei which diHcoviTcd tiioni. M. Che-
lekoff call.'d thoiii Zimhnjf: more recently they have bem called h'>tov,i y»i'&.
bears), and Stvorny (North), from the immense quantity of the aiiimuU
found there, and their position relative to Ounalashka. Adm. Sarytsdicir
has [ilacod fhcm on his chart under tho name of the officer who dimoverod
them, an here repeated. They are most commonly called in the colonies
here (htrovki, the little islands.

ST. GEORGE'S ISLAND is the southernmost. The southern and western
I)arts are surrounded by rocks, but the North is easy of approach, and affords
K<>od anchorage in a commodious }>ay for small vessels, not drawing above
8 or '.} feet water. The whole island is volcanic. It is about 3 miles wide,
and extending E. by N. i E. 19 miles ; or, according to Liitke, l3i miles in
length.

Cajjtain Liitke makes the following remarks on it :— " Itn East extremity
was determined by us to be in long. l(it)° 10 . Its Int., according to Captain
Tchistiakoff, is .56° 38'. The aspect of the 8.E. ccmst is very monotonous ;
on its level surface there is but one point rising above the rest, and this is
1,083 feet, English, al)ove the sea. The two extremities of tho island ter-
minate in very steep rocks. The North coast, which we examined, consists
entirely of rocks, of 300 feet in height, the greater part rising perpendicu-
larly out of tho water. In one position, at 5 miles from the N.E. point, tho
t'oust slopes inward, and is covered with a thick herbage. Here is tlie
company's establishment. A small cove between the rocks serves to shelter
the baidars ; you may even anchor there in South and S.E. winds. At a
mile off there are 17 fathoms Avater, black sandy bottom. This anchorage
is slightly sheltered from the East by a low point between the village and
the East point of the island. Tho surface of the N.W. part is perfectly flat
and horizontal, and is covered with grass. The coasts in general are clear,
but at 13 or 15 miles to the East there was a bank seen, in 1824, by Cupt.
Chramtschonko.

ST. PAUL'S ISLAND, the second discovered by Pribuilotf, is much
smaller than that of St. George ; this, as well as the forruer, was the retreat
of immense herds of sep.ls.

St. Paul is 44 miles to i,he N. of St. George, which is 190 miles N. 39° W.
true, from the North poiut of Ounalashka.

Captain Trollope, E.N., says (August, 18G3) : Tho chaiuiel between St.
George and St. Paul is broad, and free from danger, but reefs extend off
the S.E. end of St. Paul, and a boiling surf breaks on the long, low, level

"3g''~>as mH^ <igLf? ?^^jgg?i^» i: ;.: g y '

I'.EimiNG SEA.

island called Morjovi or M.n'se Island. From the ai.p.uirance of the water,
I should say that no ship ouglit to appr.-iuh ui.-ieeessarily witliin 5 miles.

The island extends to the South by a low bod of gravel, on which stands
the village. At half a mile to the S.W. is an islet called Sivoutchi or Sea-
Lion Island, in lat. 57° 5', and long. 169° 61'. Between the bed of gravel
and the West end of the island, 7 or 8 miles distant, to the N.W. or N.W.
i W., the coast curves into a bay, and forms some small coves, in one of
which is a tolerably good shelter for sirall vessels, '"^o eastern and
northern parts of the island are low, and the coasts sloping and sandy ;
but the West side is mountainous, and terminates to seaward on a high
steep cape, which i« distinguished by a remarkable height surrounding it.
There is on the East side of the island another (volcanic) mountain equally

remarkable.

At 5 miles W.S.W. from the Sivoutchi Rock, and nearly due South {true)
from the West end, is a small high island, 7 miles in circuit, called Bobrovi
or Sea- Otter Island; a reef extends from this island for half a mile to the
S.W., and between this island and St. Paul are some hidden dangers. At
4 uiles S. 75° E., by compass, from the East extremity is another low and
rocky island, called 3hrjovi or Morseo Island. The relative bearing of Bo-
brovi and Morjovi is N. 43= E. and S. 43° W. {true), and the distance Hi
miles. There are some reefs to the East and North of the island, and also
at the West extremity. At 12 miles to the East of its N.E. end is a bank
which uncovers at low water ; but this is all we know of it.

The vessels which usually come m June and July to St. Paul for the
chase, stay on the S.E. side of the bed of gravel spoken of above, in front of
the village, at three-quarters of a mile from the coast, in 9 to 13 fathoms
water ; but there is no security. There is sufficient fresh water in the lakes
and rivulets of the two islands. There is no species of wood growing on the
islands, and but very little drift-wocd on the beaches.

The climate of these islands is as humid and disagreeable as possible.
Verdure does not show itself until the end of April or May. Dense fogs
prevail in summer, the atmosphere is rarely clear, and the sun is still more
rarely to be seen. Snow falls in October. In December North winds bring
the ice, which remains here frequently until May.

It is sometimes difficult to find these " small islands " in the condensed
fogs which prevail here. At times the land may be seen from the mastheao,
when below it is very thick.

Capt. Beechey, on bin first return from his exploration North of Behring
Strait, passed these islands ; we transcribe his remarks.

He says:— "On the 21st of October, 1826, we came in eight of tbu
Island of St. Paul, the northern island of a small group, which consists
of three islands, named St. George, St. Paul, and Sea-Otter. The islands of
F:t. Paul and St. George are both high, with bold shores, and without any

r55%538SS5??"

' .> - <aiftWgj.w.v

mi-k^-htm

pearance of tlio water,
trily within 5 iiiile«.
ravel, on which stands
ailed Sivoutcki or Sea-
een the bed of gravel

to the N.W. or N.W.
jmall coves, in one of
Is. ""^0 eastern and
ts sloping and sandy ;
to seaward on a high

height surrounding it.
anic) mountain equally

nearly due South {true)
I circuit, called Bohrovi
I for half a mile to the
[16 hidden dangers. At
nity is another low and
relative hearing of Bo-
, and the distance 14^
of the island, and also
its N.E. end is a bank
V of it.

uly to St. Paul for the
ken of above, in front of
tast, in 9 to 13 fathoms
fresh water in the lakes
of wood growing on the
s.

isagreeable as possible,
ril or May. Dense fogs
md the sun is still more
mber North winds bring

lands " in the condensed
seen from the mastheaci,

ration North of Behring

rks.

i came in eight of tbu

all group, which consists

oa-Otter. The islands uf

shuies, and without any

THE COAST OF ASIA.

•535

port, though there is said to bo anchoring ground off both, and soundings in
the offing at moderate depths. At a distance of 25 miles from Sea-Otter
Island, ill 'he direction of N. 37° W., true, and in hit. .'3'J-' 22' N., we had 52
fathoms, hard ground ; after this, proceeding southward, the water deepens.
St. Paul is distingrished by three .small peaks, which, one of thorn in par-
ticular, have the t-ppearanco of craters ; St. George consists of two hills^
united by moderately high ground, and is higher than St. Paul ; both wero
covered with a brown vegetation. Sea-Otter Island is very small, and little
better than a rock. The Russians have long had settlements upon both
the largo islands, subordinate to the establishments at Sitka, and annually
send thither for peltry, consisting principally of the skins of amphibious
animals.

THE COAST OF ASIA.

The merit of discovery of this coast is due to Behring, as we have re-
peatedly remarked previous!/. It had been slightly and cursorily examined
by few subsequent to thnc great navigator's first voyag« until Captain Cook
saw it, and first declared its true character. Captains Gierke and King
passed along it in the following year. Oapt. Kotzebue in the Rurick, Capts.
Billings, Sarytscheif, and Wrangel, also added slightly to our knowledge.
But all those authorities collectively gave a very vague and imperfect notion
of the whole. All this, however, was obviated by the surveying expedition
nuder Captain (afterwards Eear-Admiral) Liitke, whoso excellent and ample
work leaves little to desire. This expedition, which loft St. Petersburg in
August, 1826, consisted of two corvettes, the Mollcr, under Captain Staniko-
witch, and the Senimine, under Captain Liitke. The operations of the latter
are our present object. After making many excellent observations in the
North Pacific, he proceeded to Avatcha Bay, and thence surveyed the
greater portion of the coasts of Kamchatka and Eastern Asia to the north-
ward, as far as the East Cape of Behring Strait. The account of this voyage
has furnished us with most of the subsequent particulars.

The Tchuktchis, the inhabitants of Eastern Asia, may demand a short
notice hero. Of all the Asiatic races inhabiting Siberia these are the only
ones that have not submitted to the tribute of peltries demanded by the
Rus.nans.

The Tchuktchis inhabit the north-eastern part cf Asia, extending from
Tchaun Bay to Behring Strait in one direction, and in the other from the
Anadyr, and the upper coasts of the Aniui, to the Polar fS**!. To the
South are the Koriaks, and to the West the Tchuwanzes and Jakahirs of the
Aniui. The Tchuktchis, though still in a great measure a ufimade race,
have less of the characteristics Avhich usually accompany such a mode of
hfe than the wandering Tuajj'ises ; they are more covetous and more saving

■i'l

:^^^W<Tr:mr'

"X+WTItS-mSSSSSr?^

;,;(,;. lU;illilN(^ SKA.

than belongs to t;>e character of tho genuine nomade races. Tliey are dis-
graced by the most shami'lesa licentiousness. Some of them possess largo
herds of reindeer, which are driven from place to place ..i search of pas-
turage, and are also usetl for riding. At times the meat may be procured in
abundance and cheaply.

They have been found to be more friendly than earlier writers have given
them credit for, and were serviceable to Captain Moore when he anchored
herein 1848-9.

EAST CAPE, the extremity of Asia, has been mentioned before as form-
ing, with Cape Prince of Wales, the westernmost point of America, the
narroweLu part of liehring Strait. It is a peninsula of considerable height,
joined to tho continent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of
land, it 8h( svs a steep rocky cliff against the sea; and off the extreme
point are some rocks like spires. It is in hit. 6G° 3' N., long. 190° 16' E.
From its general appearance it might be taken for an island, and this
doubtless occasioned an error in the number of tho St. Diomedo Islands

lying off it.

ST. LAWEENCE BAY lies to the S.W. of East Cupe, and was so named
by Cook, he having anchored in it on St. Lawrence's day, August 10, 1778.
It is remarkable that Behring sailed past it just half a century before, that
is, August 10, 17'28, on which account the neighbouring island was called
St. Lawrence Island.

The bay was minutely surveyed by Captain Liitke in July, 1828, and here
commence the sailing directions given by that navigator. Cape Nonniagmo is
the N.E. extremity of St. Lav, r^nce liay. It is distinguished by a remark-
able hill, not from its elevation but from its rounded summit. Cape Krlmi-
goun, which forms the S.W. extremity, is lU milos S. 52° W. from it. Tho
western slope of this mountain declines very gradually to form a large
opening, through which runs a rapid but shallow river, on which is a village
of Stationary Tchuktchis, named Nouniagmo. It is 2 miles from the cape
of the name Cape Pnaongoun, beyond which commences the interior bay,
is 3i miles W. by N. from this village. Between these the shores are
level and low, terminating abruptly at the sea-shore. From these escarp-
ments, entirely covered with snow in July, avalanches were constantly falling
with gr"at noise. Not u single shrub breaks the monotony of the interior

plains.

Capo Kilcougouu is high and very steep ; beyond it the coast turns rapidly
to the N. \V., towards Mitchigmenhk liay. Upon this cape there is a moun-
tain, very remarkable from some .sharp peaks. It is a very well determined
position on the chart. The cape is in lat. 66" 2'.l' 10" N., and long. 171° 0' W.
At half a mile from its extremity is a large villiige.

From this cape the coast extends, rounding to the N.N.E. and N., for 7
milc.<, where a bed of gravel projects, lorming a tolerably large lake. It is

ST. LAWRENCE HAY.

A37

ices. Tliey are dis-

tliem possesB largo

;e 111 fioarch of pas-

t may be procured ia

>r writers have ffiven
e when he anchored

oned before as form-
>int of America, the

considerable heigiit,
,nce, narrow neck of

and off the extreme

N.,long. 190" 16' E.

an island, and this
yt. Uiomede Islands

pe, and was so named
iay, August 10, 1778.
I century before, that
ing island was called

1 July, 1828, and here
ir. Cape Nouniagmo is
guished by a retnark-
ummit. Cape Krkou-
52° W. from it. The
iially to form a large
, on which is a village

2 miles from the cape
Mices the interior bay,

these the shores are
From these escarp-
were constantly falling
notcny of the interior

the coast turns rapidly
i cape there is a mouu-
a very well determined
., and long. 171° O'W.

, N.N.E. and N., for 7
;-ably large lake. It is

8i mibs S. 58° V/. from Cape Pnaougoun, iind may bo taken as the other
point of the inner bay. Above it is a largo village.

The depth in the centre of the bay is 27 fathoms. At 1 or li mile from
the South shore there are from 7 to 12 fathoms, muddy bottom; on ap-
proaching the inner bay the depth increases, and opposite the bed of gravel
there are 23 fathoms. No indication of reefs or dangers was perceived.

These gravel deposits will bo found to be so frequent in occurrence, that
they certainly form a moiety of the entire coast between East Cape and the
South extremity of Lopatka. A summary description of them may therefore
be here given. What is meant by a bed of gravel is a formation or collection
of shingle, rising from a few inches to 6 or 7 feet above the surface of the
water. They are generally covered with a turfy moss and plants similar to
those on the land. They generally extend in a straight line, or gradually
and slightly curve. They sometimes form distinct islands, and sometimes
join on to the continent, forming the coast itself, or else points projecting
from it. Their breadth varies ; some are almost washed over by the sea,
and none e oeed a mile. There is generally a greut depth on their edges,
and frequently at 10 or 12 yards oflf thore are 4 or 6 fathoms. At 2 or 3
miles off" the depth gradually increases, the bottom frequently muddy ; so
that, wherever one of these gravel beds are met with on the coast, so
sure are you to find anchorage. Nevertheless it sometimes occurs chat
detached and similarly deep banks lie before these. In digging holes in these
banks water is found at the level of the sea, but always among the shingle.

Such shingle banks are met with in other regions, but nowhere so fre-
quently as in the seas of Behring and Okhotsk. They are seen at every
step, and a glance is sufficient to demonstrate that they are formed by the
sea, but in what manner is not so evident.

The inner bay extends W.N.W. and N.W. for 19 miles, and throughout
maintains nearly an equal breadth of 3^ miles. Its distance from the South
Cape is 2^ miles. Here is the chief entrance ; there are more than 27 fa-
thoms water, and no danger. In the East passage there are not more than
1 1 foot water.

Cape Pnaougoun and the coast, for a mile distant, are formed by a bed of
gravel ; further o£P, though low, it is pei'pendicular, and covered with snow.
Extending from Cape Pnaougoun to the N.N.E. and N.W. it forms a cove,
1 .] mile long and wide, in which is secure anchorage.

At the extremity of St. Lawrence Bay the termination of a chain of high
and peaked mountains abuts, which has every appearance of being a branch
of the chain traversing the Tchuktchis country from East to West, and join-
ing the Stauovoi chain.

But few birds or fish, for provision, were seen here ; a few salmon were
all tluit were procured. But these privations wore amply compensated by
the abundance of reindeer which may be procured from the wandering

■^wm:msmim^M^m!mAKi^'>*'t'-^s:

688

BEIllUNG SEA.

Tchuktchis, alway8 near the coast in the autumn, for iron articles, &c., or.

fthove all. for tobacco. , .

Fresh water is to be had, and of very excellent quality, but not every-
where readily procurable. Capt. Liitke took his from a brook 1 mde from
CapePnaougoun ; it may be taken from the beach by means of a hose. On
theother hand, not a morsel of wood can be got. It is worthy of remark
that tthough L opposite or American coast abounds with it, both growxng
and drift, not a single piece is brought here by the sea. The tul, s are very
instr^hcant; the greatest difference observed was 15 inches; and were
:Xvery irregular. As near as could be ascertained, fue estabhshment

^'Th:rs:r:::iots":ade upon the bed of gravel make its West point lat.
JllZ' N.. and long. 170^ 53' 30" W. ; the latter differing half a degree

'''^^mm^KBKY.-Yro^ Cape Krleougoun the coast turns.api^y
i.rN™rand. curving in an open bay, extends for 20 miles to the
West to a moderately elevated but very steep cape, on -^^^^ - %^3
vilageofi.^.-. The coast appeared clear, without any danger. Abed
of gravel, separating Metchigmensk Bay from the sea extends from Cape
Lujrren for 20 miles to the West, curving to thee South.

tTo entrance to the bay is very difficult, from its narrowness and the
lowness of the points forming it. Before making them out. the people on
tZ will be seen, as if walking on the water. The entrance .s so placed,
Iharils opening cannot be made out until it is brought to bear N.W. by
that Its «P^^^°« ^^^^ „,„ the western side. It must thus bo

rg'hTi: the -n:al Uke the opening to a coral reef, which, in foggy

^'^^^7^. on the west side, at 2 miles from the point c^l.
Jvel bed. is a sure mark. The winter yourts show themselves by a th ck
fe lure on and around them. The Bay of Metchigmensk penetrates the
i for a great distance. The remarks as to supplies at St. Lawrence Bay
„llv Jnlv to this. The entrance of the bay was assumed to be in lat.
rrsO^SO-N Iriong. 172° 0' W. The bed of gravel which forms the
West side oUhe entrance of Metchigmensk Bay extends 5 or 6 mUes to the

^m"i5 miles from Metchigmensk Bay Cape Khaluetkin projects, very re-
„^kable for a round-topped mountain. To the South of the cape is Jle-
Z^Bay surrounded by a very low coast, apparently terminating m an

"Thence'the coast turns to S.E. to Cape Nygtckygan, which, from North and
N E at 15 miles distant, appears to be an island, on account of the bwness
ff the land between it and He-liaghyn Bay. It is steep ; to he N.W. of .t
a b^ of gravel extends 3 or 1 miles, which unites at its other end t. the

STRAIT OF SE'NIAVINE.

539

ron articles, &c., or,

ility, but not every-
a brook 1 mile from
aeans of a hose. On
is worthy of remark
with it, both growing
The tidi'H are very
[5 inches; and were
sd, t!io establishment

ke its West point lat.
ififering half a degree

the coast turns lapidly
ids for 20 miles to the
on which is the large
t any danger. A bed
1, extends from Cape

th.

8 narrowness and the
lem out, the people on
entrance is so placed,
ught to bear N.W. by
side. It must thus bo
al reef, which, in foggy

Bs from the point of tlie
v themselves by a thick
gmensk penetrates the
es at St. Lawrence Bay
a assumed to be in lat.
gravel which forms the
ends 5 or 6 miles to the

ietkin projects, very re-
)uth of the cape is He-
ently terminating in an

, which, from North and

n account of the lowuess

itoep ; to the N.W. of it

at its other ead tu tho

coast, forming a lako or bay. Beyond Capo Nygtchygan Is the opening of
the oxtonsivo Strait of St'niavine.

STRAIT of SENIAVINE.— The existence of this remarkable strait was
not suspected until tlio voyage of Captain Liitko, who applied tho name of
his vessel to it. It is formed by two large islands, Amkamtchdchen and
Ittygran. It runs first towards the S.W., then South, and to the East, nearly
30 miles, and from G miles to half a mile in breadth. Its entrance is be-
tween Capen Nevghhan and lumgouan, bearing S. .V E. and N. J W., 5 miles
apart. Each of them is distinguished by tolerably high mountains. Neeg-
tchan lies some distance from the coast ; but Kougouau falls perpendicularly
into tho sea, and was distinguished by Cook. Capo Neogtchan, in lat. 61°
o5' 30' N , and long. 172° 17' 30" W., is the northern limit of the strait ;
as Cape Mertens, in lat. 64° 33' 15', and long. 172° 20', is its southern ex-

tromity.

At 2 miles from Cape Neogtchan is the small river Marihh. Its mouth is
a good harbour for small vessels, as thoy can moor against the land. Near
the mouth, to the N.W., is the Tchuktchi village, YamaUnon. Fenkegnei
Day extends beyond tho entrance, first N.W. i W. 5 miles, then as far to
S.W. i S., then 2 miles to West. It is surrounded by high mountains, ad-
vancing to the coast itself. It is deep and safo.

Abolecheff Bay.— The continental coast from Penkegnei Bay runs 6 miles to
S. and S.W. to Abolecheff Bay, partly steep, partly sloping, but mountainous
throughout. Its opening is in front of the South point of Arakamtchetchen
Island, and extends 6 miles to the W. and W.S.W. Its breadth is 1 to li mile.
Its N. shore consists of a gravel bed, behind which, at a short distance, high
mountains rise, among which Tagleo/cou is remarkable for its perfectly conical
summit. The upper part of the bay is surrounded by a very low and sandy
shore. There is good anchorage thror.ghout above the second cape ; but to
be perfectly sheltered you must double the third cape, and lie in 17 to 19
fathoms, sticky mud. Fresh water abounds everywhere, but no wood to be
obtained.

AbolechefP Bay had a short-lived dignity, which it is very unlikely to re-
gain. It was selected by the officers of the Western Union Telegraph Com-
pany as the landing-place for the submarine cable which was to connect tho
new and the old worlds, from Grantley Harbour on the American side, as
related on page 529, ante. The enterprise was abandoned.

Fro- tiie Jirst or S.E. cape of Abolecheff Bay, the coast runs 5 miles to
S.W. i S., and forms a bay open to the N.N.E. The surrounding moun-
tains will not permit a ray of the sun to penetrate into it ; it is therefore
cold, sombre, and frozen. From this icy bay the coast runs 3 miles to the
East, and approaches tho West extremity of Ittygran Island. A bay on tho
latter c(n-rc.ponds to a gravel bed running to the N.E., and is made re-

;:sK?SB^y;««ii*kiW-

fi40

REHRINO SEA.

niarkable by thfl high pyramidal mountain, ElpipKjhyn ; the two together
form a sheltered harbour, with 9 to 20 fathoms.

From the mountain Elpyngliyn the tiiiiHt trends evenly to East and E.S.E.
for 6 miles ; then with steep, reddish clitfs, 2 miles further to Cape Mertens,
the South termination of Seniavine Strait.

Cape M .rtens is high, steep, and is distinguished by a mountain with
throe summits. Between it and the Elpynghyn Mountain there is no
shelter.

Arakamtohetchen Island, the largest of the islands forming the Strait of
Seniavine, is 16 miles long from S.W. to N.E., and 8 J miles in its greatest
breadth. From the S.W. point to nearly one-half its length it is traversed
by a chain of hills, moderately high, with flattened summits ; the highest of
which, Mount Athos, has two separate granitic rocks crowning its summit, a
short distance apart. Cape Kyghynin, tho East point of the island, and the
easternmost point of the land forming the Strait of Seniavine, is in lat. 64°
46' N., and long. 172° 7' W., and 28 miles due East of the bottom of Pen-
kegnei Bay, its western extremity.

Cape Kougouan, the North point of the island, forms, with Cape Neeg-
tchan, the North entrance of the strait, to which the natives give the name
of Tchiarloun.

Port Eatmanoff, at 2 miles ff.W. from Cape Kougouiu, is small but
good, and is preferable to all others on account of its proximity to the sea.
It is easy to make out by Cape Kougouan and another cape equally steep
but lower, at 3^ miles W.8.W. from it ; Port Eatmanoff is midway between
them. The port is formed by a gravel bed, extending 1,000 yards W.S.W.
from the coast it joins. Vessels can moor to the gravel bed, where neither
wind nor swell can incommode them.

Cape Paghelian, the S.W. extremity of the island, is 8 miles from this
port, the coast between ueing nearly straight. There is good anchorage \a
this slight bay formed by it, and tolerable shelter. Cape Paghelian is
scarcely above the surface of the water. From its commencement the rocky
shores run 1^ mile to the East, rising quickly to form the Meinghyngai Moun-
tain, conspicuous froro. its roxmded top. Then begins a gravel bed, which,
trending in a curve to S.E. and S.W., forms the excellent road of Glawnapp.
The extremity of this gravel bed, called Yerghin, is 1| mile to South, 65i°
East from Cape Paghelian. There is good anchorage in the bay thus formed
in from 10 to 16 fathoms mud.

From this cape the gravel bed runs 2 miles to the N.E. to a pointed and
steep cape ; then the shore gradually trends to Cape Ityghynin.

Ittygran Island, 2 miles to the South of the previous island, is 6 miles
long East and West, and 2 or 3 miles broad. Its N.W. extremity is dis-
tinguished by a blackish and perpendicular rock. From thence the North
coast of the island runs directly East, and then turns to S.E., to South, and

H ; the two together

irtoEast andE.S.E.
ler to Cape Mortens,

jy a mountain with
>untain there is no

brming the Strait of

miles in its greatest

ength it is traversed

mits ; the highest of

wning its summit, a

the island, and the

liavine, is in lat. 64°

the bottom of Pen-

ns, with Cape Neeg-
itives give the name

gouau, is small but
)rosimity to the sea.
ir cape equally steep
Bf is midway between
1,000 yards W.S.W.
1 bed, where neither

is 8 miles from this
is good anchorage ia
Cape Paghelian is
nencement the rocky
le Meinghyngai Moun-
% gravel bed, which,
at road of Glasenapp.
I mile to South, 65i°
1 the bay thus formed

r.E. to a pointed and

ighynin.

us island, is 6 miles

W. extremity is dis-

•m thence the North

) S.E., to South, and

(WrE TCIIOUKUTHKOI-OULF OF ANADYR.

541

S.W., to Cape Podeh, the S.E. extremity of tlic island, lying 3 miles N.W.
i N. from Cape Mertens, and 2.] niilos from the nearest part of the conti-
nent. This forms the breadth of the South entranco to tho Strait of Senia-
vino, called by the Tchuktchis Tchetchekoukmm. Cape I'oxteln is distinguished
by a moderately high hill, with a perfectly round top. Kynkai Mand, which
is not more than three-quarters of a mile in circuit, lies 1 J mile to S. 62" W.
from Cape Paghelian. It is moderately high and rocky. Nouneangan, a
small rocky islet, is outside the strait, lying 4i miles N.E. \ N. from Cape
Mertens.

One remarkable feature of tho Strait of Seniavine, which also occurs at
the Bay of St. Lawrence, is, that in these straits, enclosed by coasts, that
the depth is greater than in the middle of the adjacent sea, which does not
exceed, except in some parts, 24 fathoms. On tho American coast the depth
is not groat ; but it is still more singular that this depth is separated from
the shallower open sea by a bank with still less water over it ; so that the
soundings first decrease on approaching the coast, and then increase when
on it. In the middle of Cehring Strait the depths diminish equally on
either side.

The tides were almost imperceptible two or three days after the new moon,
but a strong North wind raised the level, temporarily, 2 or 3 foot.

The wind naturally affects the atmosphere ; with those between North and
West it is clear ; the South brings clouds, and S.E. moisture.

Cape Tchaplin. — The coast from Cape Mertens runs to the South. The
mountains recede into the interior, and from the coast a bed of gravel pro-
jects, which, trending in a curve to S.E. and East, forms the long point
called Capo Chaplin or Tchaplin, in lat. 64° 24' 30", and long. 172° 14' West.
At the commencement of this bed of gravel high mountains, with pointed
summits, advance to the shore.

CAPE TCHOUKOTSKOI.— Further on the coast trends towards the S.W.
and West, and gradually towards the N.W. quarter. Captain Liitke consi-
dered the southernmost point of this extent of coast as Cape Tchoukotskoi
or Choukotski. It is a bluff headland, declining in a narrow crest, from
which rise some high rocks, terminating in points. The cape lies in lat.
(«4° 16' N., and long. 173° 10' W. Beyond this commences the Gulf of
Anadyr.

The GULF of ANADYR.— The S.W. limit of this gulf may be placed at
Cape St. Thaddeus, lying 200 miles S. 65° W. from Cape Tchoukotskoi.
With this breadth in its opening, the gulf is 420 miles in circuit, without
reckoning the smaller sinuosities and Holy Cross Ba^ or the Gulf of St.
Croix, which is 180 miles in circuit.

Up to the time of the visit of Captain Liitke, Behring had been tho only
navigator who had sailed in it. The Gulf of Anadyr (pronounred Anurdei;
and nut Annie-dear, Mr. Whymper sa}s) was visited by the Western Union

^ nEinnxd SEA.

.„ i8ir,-7 Thu laud round it is U.w, and in orFon.'l.-

„ei,„., « .he onl, l-^-*"' *= ttotwhi* Me .he Jrn..r. and .ho

directionB. {Tra.eh in Alaska &c., pi>. o 1 -^ ^..^^^ ^^^^.^

From Cape Tchoukotsko. the coa« -;-^^^^^^^^^ ,Z^,,,,,,^ ^o the

went off the land, bo that he ^^^^"^ ^^^^^^^ .^at since his survey han
N.W. of Cape Tchoukotsko, and ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^^^^^ ,^^ F,,,win search
,eenof ^eat .terest^ ., ,,,.. At .

T loN To' W torn tuJcape we reach .«.« ^'^o^c'.V (of the centu^).
:;;; nfuch relbles the former, of a hlackish colour, and hav.,. .n .

,i.Uar ™--;^^;t:^^ C 0«/.%.« Foiects in a steep do-
At n nules from Cap« ^tok ^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^ ,,

clivity, and is hxgh. ^^^^ ^ "^j^. ^^^ ^l^,^ towards Cape Tchoukotsko: ;
N.W., are not so black as those whicu ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^

and the isolated and poxnted ^^^^^^^^^^J^.^^ ,,, ,„,u river Vouten
the East side of this cape is an open bay, into wu

f^^^^- ^««« T)TftVT7B. BAY is the first opening westward

JOM JEOVIDENCE « f^^J^/f J, „„i«,.„ Captain La.W.
„t Tahoakofkoi, and a. stated above » (Oommaader M«,ro) i..

char.. I. afferded w...er '"* f^f^^f, ^ „iLg expedition of Sir
'*"■'; "S" "lU :rltwir::5ean.h„.a,e,pro.ee.,dt,on,.he.»

the rachorage £rst Belected. ^^^,^^ „,„ t„e

Port Providoaee » ''7;,; ^I'^^rup there 'in .he ..ate. ot .848.0.

frequented i..n.c.H-M^- ''"''■*; P^^,^ ,„„» in it, i. i. « 'e'J

::rotln.on thtr: ^nd aeveral whaling ves.U .^ .n..de .n .he
summer. .^ j t^reo sides, and many-

Bare cliffs ^^' ^^^^^^' ^^^^ X^^^^^^^^^ -"' except on a patch
coloured Uchens and ^^^ /l^^;^;"'^^!,,; domesticated rein-de«r gva...
of open country near Lmma ^-W jdi ^^^^^^^ _ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^

On the spit before mentioned is a village oi

KMMA lIAKl^OrR. ETC.

ill

)W, and in opproiicli-
li tho telegraph party
,omblaneo. Tlio on-
•owo8t point. On the

mountain of no great

tho Arnoura and tho
as no rapids of impoi-
ots in the spring, and
iiug the country in all

Captain Lutke hero
ist immediately to tho
it since his survey has
by tho Franklin search
;ion of 1865-7. At 12
oUtie (of the century),
lour, and having, in a

\ projects in a steep do-
) of those further to tho
rds Cape Tchoukotskoi ;
are not seen here. On
h tho small river Voiden

first opening westward
ked on Captain Liitke's

(Commander Mooro) in
lissing expedition of Biv
;o, protected from tho sea
aveniently obtained from

)y the whalers who have
e in the winter of 1848-D,
a once in it, it is a very
,y a long spit of land, and
ressels lying inside in the

a three sides, and many-
,n seen, except on a patch
leatioated rein-deor grazt'.
tchi natives ; their tents tti-»

coniiinsed of skin, stretched ovor a frame liuHt of tho liirj^o bouoa of whalos
and walrus.— (See Lieut. Hooper's ToutH of the TuHki.)

Emma Harbour, in whicli the Ploier wintered, communicates with tlio
larger one by an opening a mile wide, forming a basin 4 milos long, and
l.J in breadth, surrounded on every side by lofty moimtaius, oxcopt to the
southward, where it is separated from the sea by a tract of low liiud and au
extensive lagoon, and having deep water at the entrance and middle, witli
good anchorage on each side close to the shore. On the low land to the
the South was a native settlement, to which belonged a largo herd of

reindeer.
The position of the harbour, ascertained by Commander Mooro, R.N., is

lat. 64'' 25' 55" N., long. 173" 7' 15" W.

Plover Bay was selected as the Siberian Station for the Western Union
telegraph cable, leaving Grantloy Harbour on the American side. A station
was built, and the line was commenced toward the Amoor, through a most
rugged and difficult country, and one of the party, Mr. Bush, made the en-
tire journey from the Amoor, a distance of at least 2,500 miles, in the win-
ter of 1855—6, a feat which deserved to rank as the most remarkable of
many undertaken by members of this expedition.

Cape Uakkoun, like Cape Ouliakhpen, is very high and steep. It is con-
spicuous, from a pyramidal rock rising from its summit.

Cape Tching-an falls from a great height, almost perpendicularly, into tho
sea. It is very remarkable by a red band which intersects tho cape from its
summit to its base.

From Cape Tching-an the coast, consisting chiefly of perpendicular rocks,
trends to N.W. and W.N.W. as far as Cape Spanherg. It is high, and in
lat. 64° 42.i' N., long. 174'' 42' W. On the South side of the cape is a high
Bteep rock, with a rounded top, and on the West side is a hill equally
rounded, the flanks of which gradually slope on either side. Between this
cape and Cape Ealgan, 9 miles distant, to the N. 71° W., a bay penetrates

into the land.

Cape Ealgan is high and very steep. In front of it is a large detached
rock. Cape Ninirlioun is as high and as bluff as the preceding, and in gene-
ral the intervening coast is equally so. This cape is very remarkable by its
flat top, but more so from its entirely different appearance from that which
follows it, CapeAttchcun,\n\a.i. 64° 46', long. 176° 28'. This latter cape,
moderately elevated, is steep to seaward.

Transfiguration Bay.— A coast extends in a winding manner 4 miles to
the N.W. to a small open bay, which Lutke recognised as Behring Bay of
Transfiguration or Preobrayenia. It is surrounded by a low shore, and
towards its extremity it receives the River Ledianaija (frozen), which the
Tchuktchis call Kouivaem. From this bay the coast is high, nearly perpen-
dicular, and like a wall ; it extends 9 miles to Cape Enmelian.

rr^fsnrnrssrr^

j^^ IJKIIIUNG SKA.

CAPE BEHEING in HituHted in lat. 66- :10" N., long. 175" 67' W. It
is particularly noticeable, because hero suddenly ternunuto the steep roc s
which, with small exceptionH, form the entire extent of coast as far as Cape
TchoukotBkoi, and further North the coast becomes still lower. The mounta.ns
in this space are similar to those at Cape Tchoukotsko. ; of a moderate
height, level at the sumuut, sloping, and even flat, which particularly <ha-
racferises the u.ountains about Cape Ninirlioun. The high and peaked n^oun-
tains, like those in the IJay of St. Lawrence, will no longer be seen even n>
the distance. From Cape Lehring the coast turns abruptly t. the N.E.,
then to North, sloping gradually, and terminating perpendicularly m some
parts, as far as Cape Tchlrikoff, which is steep, and forms an open bay.

Beyond this only a single bluff and high cape can be d.stmga.shed,
lying 4 or 5 miles to the N.W. of Cape Tchirikoff. The coast thence
trends towards the mouth of a large river, from whence it takes a westerly
direction. All the eastern shore of the Gulf of Anadyr is destitute ot

"^"to the West of the river above mentioned, the coast is low for 4 miles.
and then commences to become hilly. The mountains, higher than those on
the East coast, are peaked or flat at the summit, but '^-alU.spersed with-
out any order. The coast in this form extends 15 miles W.N.W. i W and
W N W., forming a small open bay, into which a small river falls, and ter-
xniuated ;n the South by a high bluff cape. The bottom of the bay is m
lat. 64" 364', long. 176° 48', and is properly the northern extremity of the

"" At f of TmL from this last bay the most remarkable bed of gravel that
had been seen commences. It extends without interrupti^^n to ^.W^ and
AV. for 45 nautic miles, as far as Cape Meetchken, in the Gulf of ^t. Croix
and consequently forming the largest portion of the North coast of the Gulf
of Anadyr. It is throughout nothing but a heap of bare shingle, with the
exception of a very few spots, where there had been, or still wa., a habita-
tion A narrow and shallow canal separates this gravel bed from the conti-
nental coast, which runs parallel to it, and bounds the sea with low reddish

cliffs. e ii±

HOLY CROSS BAY, or The Gulf of St. Croix, occupies a space of 54
„,iles of latitude, and 35 miles from E. to W. It reaches within 10 miles of
the arctic circle. Its shores, to the distance of 35 miles from its entrance,
run nearly parallel to e^h other, to N.N.W., and 20 miles apart. Further
on they approach each other, and narrow the gulf to less than 4 miles.

cJe Meetchken, the western extremity of the bed of gravel previously
deSed, forms the East point of the entrance; it is in lat. 65» 28 4.^ and
long. 178° 47'. The shortest distance to the opposite shore to the West is-

'%^lll good anchorage on the North side of Cape Meetehken, open how-

('ATE MKKTCUKKX.

ii\S

g. 175" 67' W. It
luto tho stet'i) rocks
!Oii«t as far us Capo
)wor. Tho mountains
jkoi ; of a niodcrato
ch particularly chil-
li atulpoakod luoun-
iger bo soon, ovon in
)ruptly tu the N.E.,
pondicularly iu some
18 an open bay.
n bo distinguished,
The coast thenco
ce it takes a westerly
ladyr is destitute of

; is low for 4 railos,
, higher than those on
ire uU dispersed with-
38 W.N.W. i W. and
1 river falls, and ter-
ttom of the bay is in
aern extremity of tho

ible bed of graTel that
rruption to S.W. and
tho Gulf of St. Croix,
orth coast of the Gulf
bare shingle, with the
or still wan, a habita-
jel bed from the conti-
) sea with low reddish

(ccupies a space of 54
ches within 10 miles of
ailes from its entrance,
I miles apart. Further
less than 4 miles,
ad of gravel previously
s in lat. 66" 28' 40", and
e shore to the West is

3 Meetehken, open how-

ever to N.W. and W.N.W. ; tho coast in thi^ direction, Immii^!: 40 niilos dis-
tiint, iiflbrds not mucli protection. Tho doptii is 5 to 'J fulhom.s mid tlio
best place is to bring Cnpo Moctchknn to boar S.W. by compass. ( 'nro must
bo taken, in entering, of the rocky bank, which lies li miles tS.W. of the

cnpo.

Tho eastern side of the gulf, tho nearest part of wliicli is S nuli's from
Cape aieotchkon, has but very littlo depth. Tlieio aro no mountains what-
ever along the coast. Only near tiie entrance a branch of tho laouutains
advances, of which the nearest to tlie gulf i.s called, by tho Tcliukt,iii.s, £/« ■
ylinffai, moaning " heart rock," in Eu.ssian Sn-d'.r Kamni. It lies in hit. ()5''
36.'.' N., long. 178'^ 17', and its height is l,l()2 feet above the level of the sea.
It is ono of the best determined points in tlio gulf.

At 26 miles from Cape Meetehken a tolerably large and higli bed of
gravel advances from the coast to tho N.W., and forms a cove 2 miles in
circuit, exposed to tho N.W., in which there is safer anchorage than iu that
at Capo Meetehken.

At about 8 miles from this point a long and low point projt^cts, funning
the South limit of the Baij of Kmujhijnin, which is nearly G miles wide at its
opening, but is shallow.

Egvchmt Ban, at tho head of the bay, penetrates 7 miles duo North, with
a breadth of 1 or li miles. The high mountains which surround it leave
all round a narrow band of h)w shore. There is no part of the bay worthy
of the name of a harbour. Eh'lkouiuni Ihuj lies by the side of the former.
The depth in the entrance was Us to 18 fathoms, muddy bottom. It had
every appearance of being a good port. At the entrance of tho bay, on its
North side, abed of gravel forms Krmemtcrn Cove. Uuiet anchorage may
be had within it.

Ten miles to the West of Etelkouium Bay is Ennaoughin Bay, on the N.W.
angle of Holy Cross Bay. It is a round cove of 9 miles in circuit, sheltered
from the South by a low point projecting 2 miles to the West, and by a
gravel bed standing alone in front of the point. This forms an excellent
harbour, the only one worthy of the character in the Gulf of St. Croix.

From this bay the western coast of the gulf runs S.S.W., and then curves
gradually to the S.E., without forming a single remarkable bay or cove. At
the distance of 10 miles from the port the mountains advance very near to
the sea, and reach it in places with high clitfs. The most remarkable
mountain about it is that of Matatchingai, at the bottom of Etelkouium Bay.
It is distinguished from all others as well by its elevation as by its sombre
and rugged flanks. Its height was calculated at 9,180 feet.

On the West side, up as far as the Port of Eng .oughin, a large quantity
of drift-wood is found, even long and large trunks of tree. ; on tho East and
North coasts, on the contrary, not a single piece is met with. This circum-
stance is worthy of oote ; it proves that the current from the Eiver Anadyr,
North Pacifit.

HKHRINO SEA.
fro,u whUh it comnn in ontorinR the Oulf of St. Croix, bears chiefly to the
W t althouKh from the boarin^ of its shores tho contrary wou d have been
Xatcd. on no part of tho shores of tho gulf is tho smallest trace of

growii-K WO0.1 to 1.0 mot with. ^.^^

Tho oHtabliHhtnent of tho port apronrs to be 8 50 . ii.e g
...» 7 lV.ot. but UHually it wus 4J to 6i feet; some former traces showed a

"The' RIVER ANADYR, which gives itn nan.e to tho gulf which rocoivos
itB wat^rB is tho n...t considerable which fulls into tho Soa of 1 ehnng.
Itrt'ern Union Telegraph was intended to follow tho course of tho r.er
upto some villages called J««./i/.^^,«ome distance from .ts mouth. Irom
ZX was to croHS over to the head of the Sea of Ol^hotsk at T.gd, thence

proceeding to Ghijogn. • ,afi7 fn„n,l that

The telegraph party who wintered on the Anadyr m 1867, found that
blinding snow storms were prevalent during winter, and between log-honse.
no moro than one hundred yards apart, it had been found necessary to stretch
a guiding rope for tho men. Reindeer meat was obtained m great quan-

*'^CAPE ST THADDEUS is the S.W. cape of the Gulf of Anadyr. Bohring
perhaps gave this name to a cape on August 21, o.s.. being i'^ 1^* 62° 42
and from his data the term has been defined to apply to the h.gh bluff cape
situated in lat. G2M2', long. 179» 38' E. ^ ,^ ^ ,•„.!,:,

Cape St. Thaddous is tho point which projects farthest to the Eas m ^.s
portion of the coast, while beyond the cape turns to the N.W. a^d S.W..
Lthat it forms a sort of natural limit to the Gulf of Anadyr^ At 5 mdes
to the S.W. i S. is another high cape, to which Captam Lutke apphed the

name of King. ,, , .^ iv,n

Archangel Gabriel 7?«y.-- From Cape King the coast turns suddenly o the

N W forming a bay, which penetrates the land to a depth not less ' a 15

^■^n'/with a breadth of 6 miles, '^o this bay Captain Lutke gave the name

of Behring Vessel.

CAPE NAVARIN.-From Archangel Gabriel Bay the coast runs South
to this cape, in lut. 02" 16', long. 179' 4i' E. In addition to this conspicuous
situation, Cape Navarin is remarkable for a high mountam on its pomt,
2,M.2 re ;i in height, the flanks of which descend nearly perpendicularly mto

^''croe Nayarin is the South extremity of the peninsula which bounds the
Arob'angel Gabnel Bay on the South. A chain of high mountains extends
through it. Mount Eeiden surpasses the rest in elevation (2,230 feet), and is
distinguished by its conical form. In the middle of September (1827) it was

entirely covered with snow.

From the cape we have a long interval of coast, upwards of 350 miles
iu extent, of which we know nothing. Captain (Uorke passed it at a

CAPE 0LUTOR8KOI.

, bears chiefly to the

trary would have been

tho smullost trace of

iO". The grnntost risn
)rmor traces Hhowod a

ho gulf which roooivos
o the Sea of Hehrinfi;.
r tho course of tho river
"rom its mouth. From
thotsk at Tigil, theuce

yr in 1867, found that
md between log-houses,
luud necessary to stretch
btained in great quan-

rulf of Anadyr. Bohring
1., being in lat. 62° 42',
y to the high bluff cape

•thest to the East in this
to the N.W. and S.W.,
of Anadyr. At 15 miles
aptain Liitke applied the

ast turns suddenly *o the

a depth not less ' Q 15

tain Liitke gave the name

ay the coast runs South
idition to this conspicuous
;h mountain on its point,
learly perpendicularly into

ininsula which bounds the
; high mountains extends
svation (2,230 feet), and is
)f September (1827) it was

l?reat distance, and Tiiptain Liitke, both in hi« progress to tho North and
on his return, wiia prevented by bad and foggy weather from making oh-
Hcrvntions nu it.

CAPE OLTITORSKOI .^ th« first point described by Captain Liitke. It is
in hit. .j!» "i^,' Mf. 170 28 K. It is remarkiiblc by o high mountain with
tliree sununn^ 2, > > feet) w ith a stoop ascent from tho sea. I'Vom this enpo
tiio coast extend* on one sido to W.N.W., towards tho (I'li/f nf O/uforshii ;
and on the other, first 4 miles to K.N.E., thou .JO miles to the North rather
inclining to the East. In all this extent ii is mountainous, and fulls into
the sea in cliHy headlands.

The Uulf of Olutorskci was not examined by Captain Liitke on account of
tho fog and its distance. Its western termination is a cape, which was
supposed to bo ^V//«' (idtiunkoi, in about \&t. 59° 60', long. lOC^ 18'. It is
high, bluff, and cliffy, and over it are some high mountains.

Cape Ilpinskoi. — From this capo tho last-named coast trends nearly West
to ('apo Ilpinskoi, where the coast suddenly becomes lower. This cape is in
lat. 69°^ 484', long. 165° 57'. Projecting from mountains of a moderate
height, it advances to the 8.W. in an oven point, not very high, and fal-
ling perpendicularly into the sea According to Kraehonninikoff, it is
joined to the continent by an isthmus bo low and narrow that the sea
washes over it.

Vcrhhotourdij or Little Karaghlmhy Island lies directly before Cape Ilpin-
skoi. Its lat. is 59° a7,i', long. 165° 43'. It is of a round form, and 3 or 4
miles in circumference. On all aides except the N.W. it falls perpendicularly
into the sea.

The strait between Verkhotoursky Island and Cape Ilpinskoi is 12 miles
broad. Nearly in the middle of it is a dangerous reef, awash, extending
IJ or 2 miles East and West. In the centre is a small but high rock.

From Cape Ilpinskoi the coast curves to the West and S.W., forming a
large gulf, which is bounded to the South by the large Island of Ka-
raghinsky.

As this bay forms one of the narrowest and the lowest portion of the
peninsula of Kamtschatka, it is usually taken as the northern limit of
that country. The Bay of Penjinsk, in the Sea of Okhotsk, forming the
opposite coast.

Although a small portion of the coast to the southward may be included
in the shores of the Sea of Behring, we shall for the present quit them,
leaving them to be described in connection with the peninsula in the next
Chapter.

net, upwards of 350 miles
iin Clorke passed it at a

2 n2

I
:

( 548 )

1 :

COMMANDER ISLANDS.

X:'£T:^^^.-^ .- th™ their pre.,n. .a.. «f lb. ^..

r Tc— ^erl *e tllo. i.a„d, .Me. .e„ W. ..

Tptain LutW, Voyage of the ««.■..,« ha, fumiehed u, .Uhthe ac

counts of them. ^ -.x,- . u j] Its

HVHRING ISLAND is nearly 50 miles long from N.^\ . to ..!<..

^rSth at the ... e^. K, o;;--;-- ^ ^ ^ i

mouata,n>, o£ 2,2«0 lect m J' .^ j,,„ g„„j,,_ „„a i„„„

-r "iCa^rthe N th Tht Seuth eipe, ea..ed C.p. M.n.t.: h,

r r.om tl™ .he Ea,t eo.,t trend. North ia steep chit, to Cv'^""*'

North and East angles to a mile or more.

C«.. ro«c/./«, the low N.W. extremity of the island, is m lat. 55» 25 long.

16%' E E om this point a dangerous covered reef extends 2 miles to
he North,' on which, at 4 cables' length from the shore, is a large uncovered
if Be weenCapes Waxell and Youchin the coast forms an open by

Ir about midway between them was a temporary estabhshment of the

BlitAn.:! Company- These men say the whole of the bay is be-

^TmC ^tchin the coast trends to S.W. to the West extremity of
, 1 /•. Int 5^" 17' Ion-. 194- 10' 3", according to Admiral Boechey;
V.t .to t SE in'bicb direction, at 10 miles further on, is the
and tl^-- ^0 t^^ :fi shore of a small bay open to N.W. This bay is
Z!:rt^^^ it^ust bo by contrast to the other unapproachable
pits Two islets abreast of the village, due West by compass, are good
Is to make the port; the one, Toporkoff, is 2 miles, and the other, he
T • ^0 .Ttt Alcas Boclc). at nearly 6 miles. Between the two, rath,
farefrto Toporkoff. is a sunken rock, that only uncovevs at low water, caUec
Pohvintchafy.

MEDNY OR COPPER ISLAND.

519

landfl, which still belong
in Archipelago, but must
ilcanoes of America with

■esent name of tho Ko-

igic events in tho annals

lese oountriea under his

which now bears his

irnished us with the ac-
orn N.W. to iS.E. Its
; to the S.E. it narrows,
r. 10(P 17'. A chain of
ighout the island; in its
r in tho South, and lower
, called Cape Manaf- by
peaked rocks terminating
} cliffs to Cape Khitroff, in
N.E. point, Cape Waxell,
8. The N.E. extreme is
la. Eoefs project from its

and, is in lat. 55» 25', long.
d reef extends 2 miles to
3hore, is a large uncovered
coast forms an open bay,
irary establishment of tho
) whole of the bay is be-
to tho West extremity of
ding to Admiral Beechey;
.0 miles further on, is the
Den to N.W. This bay is
tho other unapproachable
'est by compass, are good
2 miles, and t)ie other, tho
Between the two, ratlior
mcovers at low water, called

The spot where Behring died, as related in a former page, is on the
East side of the island, at threo-fLuarter.s of a milo W.N.W. from Cape
Khitroff.

The water is very deep around tho island. At from 4 to fi miles off the
N.E. and North shores tho depth was found to be 58 to 67 fathoms, muddy
bottom on the North side ; furtlier to tho East, stony bottom.

MEDNY or COPPER ISLAND is remarkable for its long and narrow
figure. Tho only island it resembles hereabout is Amlia. It is about 30
miles in lengtli, and its greatest breadth towards the middle is not moro
than 5 miles ; it frequently does not exceed 2 miles. It seems to bo the
crest of a mountain rising out of tho sea in a S.E. and N.W. direction.
Medny Island is dcarcely lower than its neighbour, Boiiring Island ; seen
irom tlio Behittg Cross, as the spot where tho commander perished is termed,
it appears to consist of three islands. Its shores aro very steep, clear in most
parts, and the depth around very groat. There are some reefs at its N.W.
and S.W. extremities, and at some other points, but they do not extend far
off. Tho island is entirely without anchorage for large ships ; but on its
N.E. side, at 10 miles from its N.W. extreme, is a small port, where small
vessels may ride.

The company's establishment is on the South side of the harbour. Its
lat. is 54° 47'. The lat. of the N.W. extremity is 54^ 52' 25", Ion. 1C5" 31 'E,
Medny (Mednoi or Copper, as tho Russian name signifies) was thus named
on account of the native copper found here, and which was attempted to bo
worked in the middle of the last century, but the poverty of the mine led to
its abandonment.

The dimate of these islands is not very rigorous. There are no very in-
tense frosts in winter, but they have at times very heavy snow storms. In
January and February the N.W. and West winds bring the ico on the coasts
in large quantities. The weather is clear with N.E. and East winds ; it is
overcast with those from East and S.E. There are no active volcanoes on
either of the islands, but earthquakes are frequent, the shocks of which are
sometimes felt for a long time.

After violent and long-continued wides, a large quantity of drift-wood is
thrown on to the shores, principaUy of those species that grow at Kamt-
ch'vtkiT,, but sometimes the cypress that grows on the American coast, and
even tho wood which only grows at Japan. Sometimes, also, lacquered
vessels of wood, of Japanese manufacture have been found, which goes to
prove that in this part of the ocean the currents trend to North or N.E.

, . .^-Sf^^4>*^w■5SS!w;£wss«:?5^^!rr^7•^5^'5r•^. - ^; i-'-,*-;

r^mr r~rc9r5r>— •P?^;?!-^^^'^'^"

yi »i" . | .< i . 'r--"'

fiSO

CHAPTER X.

KAMTCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KUEILE
AEOHIPELAGO.

The first country described in this Chapter is the great peninsula of Kamts-
chatka. It lies between the parallels of 62° and 51' North latitude, and is
consequently about 800 miles in length. The honour of the first discovery
of Kamtschatka is attributed to Feodor Aloxeieff. a ne/cliant, about the
year 1648. The conquest of the peninsula was c i .pin. : > 1706, and it
has ever since paid tribute, in furs, to the governor ■ IiIiuL^k. It was mado
a new province by Imperial ukase of December 14th, 1849, and formed of
the territory under the administration of the sea coasts of Kamtchatka, and
the district of Ghijinsk.

The natural limit of the peninsula would seem to be, as we have before
stated, at the bay to the West of Cape Dpinsk. The civil division extends
beyond this to the Eiver Olioutor.

The natives are of two races, the Kamtchadales and the Kariaks or Ko-
riaks, whose territories are divided at Cape Oukinskoi. The Kamtchadales
differ from them more in mode of life than physical conformation. They
seem to partake of the Mongolian type.

Of the geography of the peninsula a few words may be said. Of tlie
eastern coast, with the exception of the few points imperfectly sti :i "., ob-
served by Cook and other navigators, the only delineation that ^ J-itod t , a
long period was that furnished by Behring. Captain Lutko m i ti- sT'^iifd
from St, Petersburg to minutely survey this coast in the Seniavine, la ! 27--
28. Delays and contrarieties prevented this being done to the extb;.*- •'
tended, and only some of the more prominent features received the zreat
attention which that commander was capable of exercising in this explora-
tion. That officer's work was published in 1835 — 36. Professor Adolpli
Erman also employed bome time in the examination of various points on
land. It has since then been examined by Russian officers, ari their chait
was published in 1849 — '!.

KUEILE

ninsulaof Kamts-
•th latitude, and is
the first discovery
ly cliant, about the
: • 1700, and it
iUik. It was made
y, and formed of
' Kamtchatka, and

IS we have before
il division extends

le Kariaks or Ko-
Ihe Kamtchadales
nformation. They

r be said. Of tlie
rfoctly stiMi -.1 cb-
a that " isted t .• a
tko 'A t i!' •;v"X li.d
^entavine, '.^' ' ■21—
» to the extt. .* ■■>■■
received tke zreat
ag in this erplora-
Professor Adolpli
f various points on
ars, ari their chai-t

KARAGHINSKY IPTANP. •'^•^1

Kamtchatka is pre-eminently a country of volcanoes. Sonip of tlio
highest peaks in the world surmount its mountain ranges. Those mountains,
which cover about two-thirds of the entire surface, form an irregular chain
in a S.S.W. direction. Many of their summits are in a high state of vol-
canic action ; and, considered as a wliole, it may be supposed that thoy form
a portion of the great volcanic belt which extends through Aliaska and the
Aleutian Islands, and is continued on through the Kuriles, Japan, and For-
mosa, to the Asiatic Archipelago.

In the principal range running North from Cape Lopatka, its South ex-
tremity, thirteen summits, with craters and hot springs, have been observed,
one other height being isolated, and lying West of the main range. The
most active of these are Assatchinskoi (8,340 feet\ Avatcha (8,760 feet), and
Klutchevskoi (16,512 feet). During an eruption of the first, in 1828, the
scoria and ashes were carried as far as Petropaulovski, 120 versts (80
English miles) distant.

There are no large rivers in Kamtchatka. The configuration and forma-
tion of the peninsula preclude this. The largest is the Kamtchatka Eiver,
which, however, is said to be capable of admitting vessels of 100 tons about
150 miles up the stream.

The severity of the climate has been exaggerated, though it is severe. In
some of the sheltered valleys, which possess great natural beauty, the tem-
perature is not very inclement. Perhaps a similar train of remarks would
hold good both for Japan and Kamtchatka, that there is great differenco
between the East and West faces of the country ; the former differing from
the piercing West winds passing over the ice and snow of the continent of
Asia. Of course agriculture has been but little pursued. Its slender popu-
lation know but few wants, and these are supplied from the produce of the
chase, as bears, lynxes, otters, reindeer, foxes, &c. The skins of these form
the principal export, and but few supplies can be calculated on by vessels
touching here.

, KARAGHINSKY ISLAND.— This island, and the adjacent coast, uatil
the time of Lutke's exploration in 1828, had not been seen by any known
navigator, except Syndt, since the time that Behring had seen one or two of
its points through the fog.

It is 55 miles in length, and an uninterrupted chain of mountains traverses
its length, declining towards the S.W., and rising again at the South end,
forming a mountain about 700 feet in elevation. The western coast is of an
insignificant height. All the shore of the North and East sides of the island
is higher and steeper. This causes a great difference in the appearance of
the opposite coast, the steep ascents, the rugged or rounded summits, fre-
quently rising to 1,260 feet above the sea, and an Alpine vegetation, give it
a mountainous character.

Its N.E. extremity, Cape Golenichtchff, in lat. 59" 134', long. 164" 40' E..

r ^lljI^SSS'SI^^^SilSlSlS'iiii^Si&Xfi

r^sr - ' it.i i -Vja ' ii^i'i. ' m '- .. , .«J^J -' " '«'' "-i * " ' " ""-- I ""- -

,ro PENlNf'TTlA OF KAMTCHATKA.

;:;, .„„..„„ r. Tr■X"";n„^:S"r■^.."
aifltance of 40 miles Irom _ i .^^^^^^ ^ ^j^^^,„ „f

""tld rto S W. end the coa.. trending to the Ea,t torn. . hny open to
/;rld;h,Whn^.h„e.he„U^

It, point, C.p. Si,„e„oJJ, » I3.i m.les .6- j_^^jj|_

on iamtchntka. It i»l»-. ""'l ■« '"■" "^f ' " w ol ter; but notwith-
With the coast it form» a bay, open to all the S.W. quntte

landing thi.. it is an excellent '»>;|*''^ ,„„ „„ .„„ti„e„t i.

The depth in the .tra.t "P""'"^. K^™'? ^^^^ „ „

r " " lltalir rXtCrE^'ci; K,achen„iniho., »
*i:;in7e cl" f the »ate. was ohser,.d, and the soundin,, »p*

"LTnl'^r,!* ha. been before allnded ,0, is the No* point oj

-^T:^=tr::^^^' o,f...ch th. .ea

''*^^^®''" x- <^ ^i,;nVi ;a well determined as lat. 59° 5',

r "irirt:;^: ::.:*:t::b^.be di^ecuon or th, co.st

:f :Z * »; ; thrno.thWitt.end. S.E. town* it, and to the

southward it rnns W.N_W^ „orth.ard by Cap.

Karaghinstaia or Utansk »'», "'°'°'°" ;„ ^ n.W. direction, it.
Ko...icl.ch.«. j;U---

Tl S ■ rmol il «.. .«• B'. and long. .6.- sr. The shore, o
lrer''S::-,b„t.o„ntaio.co.red.i.hW^

distance. A bed of ^a.l -"^^ »', -"rl r!:;adu.,ly to the
S'f ITCt; aC i^- »• -. •"* '»- '-° ^' '^- -'** '' ""

•C°<^s:.t!: :t;;t:;rd .t . ... ..fnce by capt.n ....

Vertl^otonrsky. Its
r. IG.r 32 . i« at the
coast of Kamtchatka.
the island, a chain of
le two flanks of which

the raotintains decline
g, and at C miles from
broad, vhich, beyond
he higher hills to the

,st forms a bay open to

lient anchorage.

)m Capo GolenichtcliefP,

to the West and S.W.
1 Oapo Koiizmichtcheff
) 300 yards in breadth.

quarter ; but notwith-

from the continent is
ittom. It seemed as if
lape Krachenninikoff, as
id the soundings rapidly

,, is the North point of
f the narrowest part of
and long. 165° 7'. It is
oauB, over which the Bea

determined as lat. 59° 5',
he direction of the coast
;. towards it, and to the

the northward by Cape
8 in a N.W. direction, its
3 bay the River Karaga dis-
. 162" 59'. The shores of
th wood rise at no great
he South of the mouth of
3d, turns gradually to tho
r. 163° 2'E., which is the

istance by Captain Liitke,

CAPE KAMTCIIATSKOI.

65.$

forms the southern limit of a very extensive gulf, GO miles in extent from
North to Soiitli, of wliich ivuraghinskuia Bay may ho placed on the North.
Cape Ouhimkoi, or Natchikimkoi, was considered by Captain Liitke to be in
lat. 57" 58', ion"-. 162^' 47' East. It is low and levul ; the position of tho
high and remarkable mountain upon it is probulily doterminod with greater
precision ; its lat. is 57^ 51', and its long. 102^ 52'. This capo is tho boun-
dary between the Kamtschadalos and tho (Sedentary) Ivariaks ; the firbt
dwelliu"- to tho South, the second to tho North of it. Tho coast extends for
60 miU)s to tho iS.E., to a cape marked on tho charts as Cape Ozenioi, in lat.
57° 18', and long. lOO^^ 14' East. It is distinguished by a mountain sliglitly

peaked.

The coast beyond this is formed of high and sloping mountains, and
nothing remarkable occurs until the River Sfolhord-aia is reached. The
mouth of this river is very distinct, and is in 56° 40^, and 162° 39'. At 10
miles from its mouth the coast begins to bo mountainous, and continues so
for 15 miles.

Cape Stolboroi is a high cliff, in lat. 56" 40i', long. 163° 21' East. Eeforo
it are three detached rocks, one very large. The coast from tho cape to-
wards the River Stolbovskaia turns abruptly to the N.W., and soon after-
wards to West and W.S.W. At 12 miles South from Cape Stolbovoi, in lat.
56° 27', tho chain of mountains is interrupted to give place to a very low
valley, through which, to the W.S.AV. from seaward, thoro was no elevation
visible between the Klutchovskoi Volcano. Tho coait iu question trends
nearly upon a meridian for 35 miles South from Cape Stolbovoi. Through-
out this extent, with the exception just alluded to, ihe coast is high and
mountainous, terminating on the sea-coast often in slopes, but with cliffs in
some parts, but it is throughout fronted by an extensive reef. From the
above distance, the coast runs 15 miles to S.E. to Cape Kamtschatskoi.

CAPE KA.MTCHATSKOI. — There was some doubt as to which was tho
actual cape bearing this name. The coast here forms a sloping and slightly
elevated cape, which, seen from the S.E. at a great distance, would have
the appearance of a remarkably prominent point.

From this cape the coast turns gradually to the S.W. and W., then runs
N.W. and W. to the mouth of tho River Eamtschatka.

It is a tortuous stream of no great size ; at its mouth is the village of
Sharon. The river was ascended by Major Abasa, a Eussian ofSuer in charge
of the Siberian part of the Western Union Telegraph expeditions in August,
1865. He went from this to Tigil on the Sea of Okhotsk. Nishni (New) or
Lower Kamtchatka, near the mouth of the Eivor Kanatchatka, is the place
to which Behring brought the naval stores, and built the boat in which ho
started on his voyage of discovery July 20, 1728.

The Klutchevskoi Volcano. — The great mountain of Kamtchatka lies at
the back of the bay to the West and South of Cape Kamtschatkoi. Its lat.

,«B?M3?ES!BIK«;ny'™ttS*SS«S»*«P* ■

PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATIvA.

.•)54

;« -.6' 8' N long. 160" 46' E. This volcano, called al.. KamiMlco^ and

angular -"--J^ ;" * ^^'I'm. Prota^r ErMan me..»™d it
a, 15,766 tngl Bh pirtur«.,M and BubUme Mohwty,

till he reached the hBight of 8,000 feel. . ,3, n, i^..,.

""^ ^r !f t^rdl" :r.dB"euth, a„d U. .. 30 » «
:rXTrthed>B..eUBe»theaa...^

ri"\"etii"'C:: u.er::iB "reLrof K.oae...o^ .hi^

I.„,ke. The North ehore eztende to *» W.''^^' j, ,,..a. en the

Th. Kronot*.i,Vol«:o. 1 ,6.0 E"^" f* '^^^ J, l,^, ,^ 37 E.

North Bide o! the bay ta <l«e.t|on. IlB '«'-' " / ' ,,„ ^,,, ,i.,.„,

« •PP-'-':V:r^aett'o trLXl.be fo..o.a,.^>at
The Kronotskoi Volcano, hke tnat oi v ^^^^ ^^ .^ .^ ^

-0, but it Been.B te !;;^;^,7l'\':red ^ cloB, t. it a peaked bill,
:lS^r.Z':ba:;tte..aed d«.n. .be pa.B..e or the Cbe,e.
Lb Mountain f»mitBaneient,»i^Bp..ent«^^^^ ^^^ ^.^^

B.t«en it an ^-/^n tt II Cing a oontinaou, chain. In the
„.ain -"-' ™:;":'3„„„,. te.be North et Cape Sbipunake, «

:-'::;:\rnei --^^^^^^^

l'^ir.b:rc;i::Trr:inenBeoa.tiB.ene,a„,N„«b and

South for an extent of 25 or 30 miles. ^^ ^^, j, ^^

«*'^^™r re J^^otr:: W U .bich advancea 3

PettepanlovBta. It>»«io «^' ' j„„panoa Volcano, and temnnat..

^UBftom the Cham '^^'^^^^'^^'^ feet high. Seen from the

„„ the Bea.coa.t throngbout m """y^" .„j,„ti„g and oven cai«,

«il:.° ty!;^ .he e«e ^int are .ome detached red.., wbtcb Bee,n to be

I KamtHchafskoi, and
f the village Klutchi
if the Biver Ktimt-
. On its S.W. and
first with a serrated

second even. The
lamtchatka, and the
]. from it. From an
jpeated, Capt. Lutke

Erman measured it

evsk.

nd sublime acclivity,

a continuous stream,

162° 13'. The ir^^r-
ith, and tl. u 30 or 40
ligh snowy mountains,
irge detached rock otf
of Kronotskoi, which
rere not examined by
d is low on the sea.
height, stands on the
■, and long. 160° 37' E.

at I'iO miles distant.
18 the form of a regular

To the left of it is a
lose to it a peaked hill,
passage of the Cheve-

southward, many high
itinuous chain. In the
of Cape Shipunskoi, a
)untains recede into the
?rom this cape to Cape
; is generally North and

5S° 6', and is 1° 11' E. of
land, which advances 3
STolcano, and terminates
,t high. Seen from the
rejecting and even cape,
d with the other moun-
i rocks, which seem to be

AVATCHA BAY.

55j

iinited by a roef. Capt. Lutke observed u strong curruut ofl' thu ciipe which
produced some overfalls.

Cape IValatchef/ ia 22 miles W.N.W. J W. fror.i Capo Shipunskoi. It is a
high, steop mountain, the summit irregularly rounded ; it projects in a point
to the South. The coast to the eastward of it is low and sandy near the sea,
and rises towards a chain of moderately high mountains, but which aro
steep, and terminate in peaks ; these extend to Capo Shipunskoi. Viewed
from the S.W., this chain seems interrupted in a part wliere Bctchevimkaia
Bay opens. Trading vessels used formerly to visit the little River Vakhik-
kaia, which debouches 5 miles N.W. of this bay. The little Rher A'alakh-
tyrka, which enters the .sea at 7 miles from the lighthouse cape of Avatcha
Bay, is pointed out by a rock of moderate height, whitened by the dung of
the sea-birds, lying 2 versts ( 1 i English miles) to the South of it.

The coast between this river and Avatcha Bay is lofty, and torminatoa
on the coast, in many parts, in high cliffs. This space is interseetod in one
part by a low isthmus, l)otween the bottom of Rakovya Bay and the sea,
across which the hunters who go to take birds from Toporkoff Island trans-
port their canoes.

AVATCHA BAY.*

This bay, the principal port of the Peninsula of Kamtchatka, derives its
chief interest from its containing the port of St. Peter and St. Paul, Petro-
paidovski, as much from its intrinsic superiority. It is so extensive and ex-
cellent, that it would allow all the navies in the world to anchor in perfect
security in its capacious basin. Yet the navigator in entering it will at first
see no sign of himian habitation or commerce on its shores, imless, per-
chance, some vessel may be approaching or quitting its only port, the little
town above mentioned.

It was visited by CaiJtain (after Admiral) Beechey in H.M.S. Blossom, in
1827, who made an accurate and ample survey of it. In the narrative of the
voyage of the French frigate La Venus, under Captain Du Petit Thouars, is
a lengthened account of it commercially and nautically, and from these we
derive the following.

The Eoad of Avatcha or Awatska lies at the bottom of the bay of the
same name ; it is reached through a narrow channel, which is 4 miles long
and about 1 mile broad. This strait, although thus narrow, is not dangerous,
because there is anchorage throughout its whole extent ; in it, as in nearly
all close chanixels, the winds are almost always either directly in or out of

• It is ■written Awatska by Admiral Beechey. Captain Du I'etit Thouars and othera
write Avatcha; MuUer says Awatuka ; or properly, according to Kamtschadaliaa pro-
nunciation, Suaataeha. Mr. Whymper says that, notwithstanding tho variety of spelling,
Avatcha is the distinct English pronunciation of the name of the place.

--roiftTrf'T-. ■'.' '■

I'ENINSULA OF KAMTCIIATKA

556

if that is thoyare either contrary or favourable for ra«sins it The im-
Inse C of ivatcha. which loads to this channel, Ib formed by the repeat
the eoaIt-1 .^ between Cap. Ga.anal. and m^m^^i or C/«.,.«.ioK the^e
w rpla. the best landfalls for maMn, the Port of I'etrora. ov«k a
fL whether Capo Oavareah or Cape Shipunskoi is closed wUh, if the ves e
hoild be overtaken in either of these positions by thick fogs or s rc.g
:-nd ' fl East or S.R, it is always possible to keep at sea ; should h
Ideavour be to make the channel at once on its parallel not only w 1 th
lakinrthe coast be retarded without any advantage being gained, bu
Thodd she then be surprised by any contrariety, there is no means of
tk ngtn advantageous tack in order to keep off, and the situation of the
I p 'in be troublesome, there being no soundings on the coast and
tLr do they offer any anchorage which could be taken in such circum-

^Tvou arrive by night off the entrance to the bay, and the wind should be
contrary for entering.'it will be dangerous to attempt to enter the port with-
out the assistance of a pilot, or unless well acquainted with it.

Wth cntrary winds, with wind too light to steer, or during calm, the
cull aTnarrowneL of the entrance render the navigation di W;
but thepo-ibility of anchoring throughout diminishes the danger Wth
a Teat ng Xd, the entering or leaving Avatcha Bay offers much difficulty.

^r'Tcurrents affect the steering, which, ^^ ^'S^^, ^--' /^laJ,
happens in the entrance, it is well to anchor in Ismenai Bay on the East
«ide of the entrance, or, if necessary, in any part of the channel

LigL; -On the ;astern point of the entrance a bright/..^ ^^^U « shown,
olfivated 449 feet, visible 21 miles off. „ . ^

TtTLt is shown on the inner point on the West side of the entrance
3i c£ N W. by N. from Baboushka Island, elevated 294 feet, seen 9

" i'/^frf IM on the inner point of the entrance on the eastern side at the
signaUta!;!! about half a mile South of the entrance to Eakovya Harbour.

elevated 378 feet, seen 9 miles off. . ^. . , , . a,y,„ o„ter light

The lights at the entrance are very judiciously placed. The outer ligut
mJv be approached without any risk, by means of the lead, and anchor close
- rft should he wind be contrary ; but if the wind is favourabe for entering,
f ;^ h middle of the channel, steer on to the South Signal Light on th
W s de and keep it on the East tangent of Baboushka ; this wiU bring
r hp abreast of Point Staniski, and from this point, steemg North or
NiEwU bring you to the middle of the coast, between Point Ismenai
L the North sLal Post and Light, taking care to bear North or even
N W ;N as soo! as you are to the North of the North Signal Post, and
^eLg^u you wiU reach safely the anchorage of Petropaulovski. Care

passing it. Tho im-
formod by tho retreat
i or Chrponskoi ; these
: Petropaulovftki. In
,86(1 with, if the vessel
thick fogs or strong
p at sea ; should tho
llel, not only will tho
ge being gained, but
thero is no means of
id the situation of the
gs on the coast, and
taken in such circum-

ind the wind should bo
to enter the port with-
l with it.

er, or during calm, tho
le navigation difficult;
hes the danger. With
y offers much difficulty,

light breeze, frequently
lenai Bay, on the East
the channel.
vight fixed light is shown,

'est side of the entrance,
levated 294 feet, seen 9

n the eastern side at the
ace to Eakovya Harbour,

placed. The outer light
the lead, and anchor close
s favourable for entering,
outh Signal Light on the
aboushka ; this will bring
3 point, steering North or
t, between Point Ismenai
ire to bear North, or even
,e North Signal Post, and

of Petropaulovski. Care

HARBOUR OF PETROPAULOVSKI.

457

must be takon, in this course, not to shut in tlic entrance light by the land
of Point Ismenai, so as to clear tho Eakovya Uank.

Thero in no particular precaution necessary for safoty in anchoring in
Avatiha Bay. Tho sea is never so heavy as to occasion any trouble ; but
as the bay is surrounded by high mountains, violent gusts aro somotimes
felt, so that, for greater security and quiotudo, it is bettor to have a long

hawser out.

The tidal currents are very irregular, both in fonn and duration ; they
were never found more than at 2 miles in the entrance, or U mile in tho

rond.

Tho HARBOUR of PETROPAULOVSKI, on tho eastern side of this
bay, is small, deep, and well shut in. It is defended by tliroe raking bat-
teries.* A vessel, of whatever size, can enter it, and undertake any descrip-
tion of repairs.

Tareimki Ilarlour, lying in the S.W. part of tho bay, is imnionso and ex-
cellent, but as there is neither population nor trade in it, it has, up to the
present time, been of no utility.

Rakovya Ilarhour also forms, to the South of Petropaulovski, an eriually
excellent port, but it is of less easy access than the foregoing, on account of
the Rakovya Bank, lying in the middle of the channel leading to it.

In fine weather the morning breeze is from the North to N.N.W., lasting
until eight or ten o'clock, and sometimes even until eleven o'clock ; then,
shifting to the West and South, it sinks altogether ; in the afternoon, about
one or two o'clock, the breeze from tho otfing sets in, varying from South
towards East.

Directions.t— It is desirable to make the coast well to the southward of
Cape Gavareah, and to round it as closely as possible, as the wind will, in
all probability, veer to the northward on passing it. If the weather be
clear, two mountains will be seen to the West and N.W. of the capo, and
one far off to the northward and eastward. The eastern one of the two
former, called Villeuchinski, is 7,372 feet high, and peaked like a sugarloaf.

* During tho Crimean war Petropaulovski was attacked by an allied fleet of 6 ships, French
and Engli8h, with a result l)y no moans a subject of congratulation to us. On August 28th,
18.H, the ships opened fire on tho outer batteries, and tho Russians returned it with great
spirit. TJltimatcly an ill-judged landing was made of 700 men, during tho unpro-
tected march of whom almost all the officers were picked off. Having lost their leaders,
the men fell back in disorder, and were repulsed with a loss of 107 English. The ships
then bore ofif. Ttis victory was tho cause of very great surprise and self-gratulation to the
defenders of this poor little town. When the fleet returned in the following spring. May
and June, 1865, they foimd the place abanibned, and it fell, of course, a very easy prey.—
(Mr. Whymper.)

t These directions are by Admiral Beeohey, as given in the Appendix to the Voyage of

the Bhisom.

"■Tr y.ift-.' M.at.^iWjm-*- '-' ^'"* ' - '' -' ' - "^ -' '

658

PENINSULA OF KAMTCIIATKA.

'l^

i ;

and is in lat. 52° 39' 43" N., and long. 49° 40' W. of Tetropaulovski (158"
22' K.) The highpst and most nortliorn of tlie tliroo lattor is the Mountain
of Avntcha, in lat. 53" 2(t' 1" N., and 3'' 47' E. of the before-mentioned town.
Its height is 11,500 foot, and in clear weather it may be seen a very consi-
derable distance. The centre hill of the throe is tho volcano, but it omits
very little smoke. Theno peaks are the best guide to Avatcha Buy, until
near enough to distinguish the entrance, which will then appear to lie bo-
tween high perpendicular clifl's. Upon tho eastern one of these, the light-
house bluff, there are a hut and signal-stuff, and when any vossel is expected
n light is sometimes shown. If the harbour be open, a large rock, called tho
Jiahounhha, will bo seen on the western side of the channel, and three others,
named the Brothers, on the eastern side, off the lighthouse. The channel
lies in a N. by W. direction, true ; and when the wind is fair, it may be
sailed through by keeping mid-channel ; but it frequently happens that
vessels have to beat in, and as the narrowness of the channel renders it
necessary to stand as close to the dangers as possibir , in order to lessen the
number of tacks, it is requisite to attend strictly to the leading marks.

The outer dangers are a reef of rocks lying S.E., about 2 miles from the
lighthouse bluff, and a reef lying off a bank which connects the two capes
opposite, i. e., StaniHki Point, with the cape to the southward. To avoid the
lighthouse reef, do not shut in the land to the northward of the lighthouse
bluff, unless certain of being at least 2J miles off shore, and when within
three-quarters of a mile only, tack when the lighthouse bluff bears North,
or N. J E. The Brothers Rock, in one with the lighthouse, is close upon
the edge of the reef. The first western danger has a r jck above water upon
it, and may be avoided by not opening the Baboushka with the cape beyond,
with a flagstaff upon it, or by keeping Staniski Point well open with the
said signal bluff. In standing towards this rock, take care that the ebb tide
in particular does not set you upon it. A good working mark for all this
western shore is the Baboushka open with Direction Bluff, the last cape or
hill on the left upon the low land, at the head of Avatcha Bay. The bay
South of Staniski Point is filled with rocks and foul ground. The light-
house reef is connected with the Brothers, and the cape must not be ap-
proached in any part within half a mile, nor the Brothers within a full
cable's length. There are no good marks for the exact limit of this reef
off the Brothers, and consequently ships must estimate that short distance.
They must also here, and once for all, in beating through this channel,
allow for shooting in stays, and for the tides, which, ebb and flood, sweep
over toward these rocks, running S.E. and N.E. They should also keep
good way on the vessel, as the eddy currents may otherwise prevent her
coming about.

To the northward of the Brothers, two-thirds of the way between them
and a ragged cape, at the South extreme of a large sandy bay (IsmenaV

.'etropaulovski (158'
ttor is the Mountain
bre-mentionod town,
e eeon a very oonsi-
■olcano, but it omita
Avatclui Lay, until
on appear to lio bo-
3 of those, tlie light-
ay vossel is expected
arge rock, called tho
el, and three others,
lOuse. The channel
d is fair, it may be
lently happens that
) channel renders it
1 order to lessen the
)ading marks,
ut 2 miles from the
meets the two capes
rard. To avoid the
■d of the lighthouse
), and when within
B bluff bears North,
house, is close upon
;k above water upon
ith the cape beyond,
well open with the
ire that the ebb tide
g mark for all this
ujf\ the last cape or
uha Bay. The bay
ground. The light-
pe must not be ap-
others within a full
ct limit of this reef
that short distance,
rough this channel,
lb and flood, sweep
)y should also keep
lerwise prevent her

way between them
andy bay (Ismenai

PETRC) PAULO VSKI.

SAO

Bay), there are some rocks nearly awaHh ; and ofl" tho nigged capo callt^d
Pinnacle Point (N.N.W. 1 J mile from tho lighthouse), there is a small reef,
one of tho outer rocks of which dries at half-tido. Thosn dangers can almost
always be seen ; thoir outer edges lio nearly in a line, and tboy may be ap-
proached witliin a cublo's length. If they are not seen, do not shut in the
Rukovya signal bluff. Off Tinnaile Point tho lead linds deeper water than
mid-channel, and very irregular soundings.

To tlio northward of .Staninki Point the Baboushka may be opened to the
eastward a little with tho signal bluff, but bo careful of a shoal which extends
about 3 cables' hjngths South of tho Baboushka. Baboushka has no danger
to tho eastward, at a greater distance than a cable's length ; and when it is
passed, there is nothing to fear on the western shore, until N.N.W. of the
signal staff, off which there is a long shoal, with only 2 and 2.i fathoms.
The water shoals gradually toward it, and tlio helm may safely bo put down
in 42 fathoms ; but a certain guide is, not to open the western tangent of
Baboushka with Staniski Point South of it. There is no other danger on
this side of the entrance.

When a cable's length North of Pinnacle Eeof, you may stretch into Is-
menai .Bay, guided by tho soundings, which are regular, taking care of a
3-fathom knoll which lies half-way between Pinnacle Point and the cape
North of it. This bay affords good anchorage, and it may be convenient to
anchor there for a tide. There is no other danger than the above-mentioned
knoll. The large square rock at the northern part of this bay (Ismenaf
Kock) may be passed at a cable distance. This rock is connected with the
land to the northward by a reef, and in standing back towards it, the Pin-
nacle Point must be kept open with the lighthouse. When in one, there are
but ^ fathoms. Eakovya signal-staff or lighthouse to tho northward, in one
with the bluff South of it (which has a large green bush overhanging its
brow), will place you in 5 fathoms, close to the rocks.

Off the North bluff of Ismenai Bay there extends a small reef to a full
cable's length from the shore ; until this is passed do not shut in Pinnacle
Point with the lighthouse. But to the northward of it you may tack within
a cable's length of the bluffs, extending that distance a little off the signal-
staff bluff, in consequence of some rocks which lie off them.

Northward of Eakovya signal-staff the only danger is tho Eakovya Shoal,
upon the West part of which there is a buoy in summer, and to clear this
keep the Brothers in sight.

There is no good mark for determining when vu ire to the northward of
this shoal, and as the tides in their course up Eakovya Harbour are apt to
set you towards it, it is better to keep the Brothers open until you are
certain, by your distance, of having passed it (its northern edge is seven-
eighths of a mile from Eakovya bluff), particularly as you may now stretch
to the westward as far as you please, and as there is nothing to obstruct

■it i! > a f. ' -j) ' A * fc.i: * j^.ij^ ' ^ g ^ ' AU;' ' --»' t^

rKNlNSiriA 01' KAMTCllATKA.

your boa. up ,o «.., a„,^.™«,o. The g^uud i. c...,w1.«» ^^ -' » I-

son umy bcIocI \m own berth. *„„t,.hft Hnv. will afford K'ood

Rakovya llarl..,ur, on the ea^torn -^-j f^^^^ "",,,, „ .uich ti.ue
security to a vo.sol runuin, in from .-a w. h '" ^ y,^^^,;,^ ,, ,,,

«,„. „u«ht thul dilUculty in l.r.n,.n, "^ J^;;^; ,, „„,,,l;,,d ; 5 and
ca... the Rakovya .Shual n.u.t bo vouud.d and loU o th ^^^^ ^^

5i lall.nas ^viU bo cIoho upou the cdgo of it. but the wa
Bhoalod under U fatlioms. .onvoniont place for a refit of

,a.,ea .ith « f»w yard.' ■""»"" „.,.„, „•„,, lisl,, wiuJ,.

and -vUl, tl.o bogiuning ..t tl.o «W , '' '" "JT^^ ', i,, „i«,„ ,1.0 .iguJ

...,. do..u up.a th. K« 2;: :t;eli:.:.° :.: .... ly. -^ .•.»,

rXar .T;rip'r.Wu.o u\a,auageaUo. U . WUa. .0 ....
„i..!. ,1,0 la., dvamot the flood. ^ ^^ ^„ „^„„.„,

''it riXa.or a. r..«pau.ov.l.i a. 3> SO- Ml and change ; .ho .ide rl.e.
e t... , inch., -priug .idc, and 2 fee. '2 inche. neaP .*. ^^^ ^^, ^^ ^
The church a. I-Crepaulck, « m lat 53 N . ^^ ^^^

pmopAULovsH >'r'':::::z, „n.,::.r„f « g,eupof..a«

Ml,.. ,.hich torn, .he vallc , '^f'^^'.^i .o„„„„d.d by cour..
wooden ho«,e., ».crnd ;"'>' ™ ^;,'j.'",„„ ;, ,te to»n, in .ho h....om
and garden., w.h p.l,..des^ "^^°»^J^ ,„, ;,, ,,„,„„« cen.truCiea,

i.':.heluc,ur..,.rro«.^^^^^^^^^^^^^

In „pj,r„u,h,„g ^^^ *' ^'^ ;,,,„ i. . i„„ery, pcrh.p. a -vhi.e buoy
.be harbour wa, '^'"''^^ """'^ " „, , t.„k ,,„i„g 3 fathom, on it, ..■
„ill be .een °'"'''"8 frfX? g.E. «,») from i.. Tbi. m.ybepa...d
.ending nea, , a quarter « ;J '» -*';,„;^, . „„ ,„ .,,0 end of a le, point

r^* irS- - al;.o of about «• frota the dir^a^f *•

.At »Ko Pliff under tho oemotory bearing N.E., until witbin
H,M,S. Fmident, 1836.

ii^

^■11

I'KTHol'An.oVsKI

loro good, and a per-

llny, will alFord Kfx.d
y h'ulo, lit whii'h timo

uuclioraj^e. In this
;ho northward ; 5 and

woter bhould not bo

nt place for a rofit of
^riiiiibt a near approach
Bandy point may bo

jHtaff, with li^lit winds,
I) guard against beiny
pant it, upon tho signal
ver thirt bay, and wlien
e. It is hotter to weigh

m Bay, is an excellent
d may be safely entered

id change ; the tide rises

tides.

.,long. ]i58M3'30"E.
3 on the slopes of two
ised of a group of small
nd surrounded by courts

the town, in the bottom
ts funtastic construction,

add considerably to the
)untnins.

of the peninsula forming
y, perhaps a white buoy
ving 3 fathoms on it, ex-
,mit. This may be passed
■ to the end of a low point

from the direction of the

tory bearing N.E., until witbin
Iski will appear in tho centre of
iir. ct channel to the inner bar-
ontine G. RoberU, Master, R.N-.

coast, and nonrly cIoros tho bottom of Um' hay, nmlung it into an ox.ellent
nat.ind harbour, tho bont that .an br du.in'.l. Tiii^* tougn.. of land, liko an
artilicial cauHovvay, is but littlo above tho surfaro of tho water, and is no^v
covere.! with h„/„!,,'»^, luits raised on piles above tho ground, serving to dry
lish. In the early days of the Russian occupation it was th.^ sit(^ of tho
cdony. Arrived at tho bott.,m of tho port you land on a plaiiU, wiiich holdn

tiio place of a mole. T.irnwig to tho left down a good sti t, broad and

macadamized, aft.^r passing tho g<.vernment workshops in tho centre of I'e-
tropaulovski, turning to the right after passing thorn, ami croHsing a wooden
bridge, you pass tlio church on tho right hand, and then reach tho go"oru-
mtnt olPicos. These two streets are all that merit tiio name.

Mr. Whymper, who was hero in lH(i5 and 18G6, says: With tho excep-
tion of a few decent houses, the residences of the Ilussian olliei,.ls uud
foreign merchants, the town makes no great shew. Tho poorer dwellings
are very rough indeed, nnd are almost exclusively rude log .ubiuH. Tho
only noticeable building is tho .dd Greek church, which has paint.^d red and
green roofs, and a belfry entirely detached from the building. It is to bo
remarked that the town, as it existed in Captain Gierke's time, was built on
the sand-spit, but no remains or indications of it were soon by us. I'etro-
paulovski was once a military post, and had a rather larger p..pulation
than at present. Tho Cossack soldiers have now been removed to tho

Amoor. . . t> i i

The llussian- American Com. any had at one period station.^ in I otropaulov-
ski, and other parts of Kamchatka, but abamhmod them, owing doubtless
to the competition of private traders. It is now one of tho centres of tho
fur trade, but Nijni (now) Kamtchatka is tho present capital, liolcheretsk
was considered the principal town formerly, but has dwindled down to an
in.ousideiable village, and indeed the population, and with it tho production
of Kamtchatka, is on tho decline. Yet the climate is by no means so bad as
commonly believed. Colonel Bulkley, of the Telegraph Expedition, consi-
dered that it was better than that of some of the New England States and
Canada, and was quite certain that agriculture was possible.

A vessel in need of repair will only iind sale anchorage in Avatcha Bay,
and must depend on her own resources both for provisions and workmen ;
for there is no certainty in obtaining wood or water, still less any refitments
for the ship. It is, however, possible to procure, in urgent cases, some slight
aid from tho Government stores, and some workmen of the port ; but these
assistances, besides being limited, are very precarious. Wood and water
are easily obtained. A supply of fresh beef may be procured, and a littlo
fresh butter, but it is difficult to get poultry or eggs. There are no sheep nor
pigs. Fish is abundant in tho bay in the season ; it begins with cod and
is followed by salmon and salmon trout.
The Coa8t.-The eastern coast of Kamtchatka, bet-.v'^en Cape Gavareah

iVbrM Patific.

: uy ;^ :T'J -j;■>'^^J !Mr': ^'r■ ^^^ ' a^ ' ■ .v ' .' -> ' ' '

il.^H'J, . "^ ^'M^ "

562

ktjeilj: islands.

and Cape Lopatka, trends to tho S.W. South of Aehachimlioi the land is
not so high and broken as between that bay and the mouth of Avatcha B.ay.
The coast is steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches. About 7
leagues S. by W. of Capo Gavareah is a high headland, and between them
are two narrow but deep inlets. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms
and deep valleys, which arc well wooded. Achachimkoi Bay, in lat. 51° 54',
is formed to tho northward by a point, and penetrates deeply into tho
laud.*

CAFE LOPATKA is tho South part of Kamtchatka, and is in lat. 60° 49',
long. 156* 50'. It ia a vory low, flat cape, sloping gradually from the hi[:ii
level land to tlie North, and to tho N.W. of it is a remarkably high moun-
tain. Its name, Lopatka, signifies the bladebone of a man, or a shovel, and
is expressive of its form. It extends from the South end of the peninsula 10
or 15 miles, and is about half a mile broad.

The passage between this cape and the N.W. Kurile Island ia about 3
miles broad, and very dangerous, on account of the strong currents and the
sunken rocks oif the cape.

KURILE ISLANDS.

11 f.

It,','

This extensive chain of islands extends nearly in a unifoiia N.E. and S. \V.
line from the South extremity of Kamtchatka to the North point of the
Island of Jpsso, a distance of 650 miles.

The BouHBole Channel separates the chain into two portions ; that to the
northward belonging to Russia ; the southern islands formed a portion of
the Japanese possessions, but later evenits have altered their relation.

The northern portion is all apparently of volcanic origin ; indeed the whole
chain may be looked upon as a series of submerged mountains, a continua-
tion of the mountain chain traversing Kamtchatka through its whole
length.

Of t^o Japanese portion tho most considerable islands are Urup, Itu-
rup, Kvuiashiro, and Tschikotuu or Spanborg Island. On these there are

• It was on this part of tho coast that tho singular occurrence of the wreck of a Japanese
vessel occurred in July, 1729, at the Sandwich islands. All those facts, which doubtless
might bo multiplied, would tend to provo that tho winds and currents in tho western por-
tion of tho North Faciiic have a great analogy to those of the Nortli Atlantic j tha same
progress oi iho oyolones, or rfi>olving storms, and the su.-no drift of tho N.E. Tho vessel in
question was from Satsuma, in Japan, hound for another Japansso port called Ozaka
(Ohosaka?) Sho was driven from her course b}' a violent storm to sea, where they remained
for 6 mouths, and at last reached this coast and cast anchor. The crew, seventeen in number,
landed and encamped, 1)ut th«y wero all shot hut two by a treacherous Cossack. The two
hurvivor* were sent to St. I'etersburgh to bo educated,

achimhoi the land is
uth of Avatcha B<ay.
f patches. About 7
:, and between them
tly, and form chasms
Bay, in lat. 51° 54',
ates deeply into the

and is in lat. 60° 49',
ually from the higli
arkably high moim-
iian, or a shovel, and
i of the peninsula 10

ie Island ia about 3
ong currents and the

ifoi:aN.E.andS.VV.
North point of the

lortions; that to the
formed a portion of
their relation,
m ; indeed the whole
untains, a continur-
through its whole

mds are Urup, Itu-
On these there arc

the wrock of a Japanese
e facts, which doubtless
;!it8 in tho western por-
ortli Atlantic j the same
tho N.E. Tho vosael in
in«so port called Ozaka
tea, where they romaiued
ew, seventeen in numbBr,
irous Coasack. The two

SUMSHU AND POEOMUSTIIR ISLANDS.

503

military posts for defence, and establishments for facilitating tho commorco
with tho Ai'nos, the native inhabitants. The name Kiirik; is derived from
the Kamtcliadalo word for "smoke," t)ic volcaiiif islands having been seen
from Lopatka.

Our ac(|uaintanco with tho configuration of tho Kurilo Islands may bo
considered as tolerably complete. This result was one of tho most diffioidt
problems in hydrography. The fog in whirh tho group is constantly en-
veloped; tho violent currents exporu'iicod in all the passages or straits
separating them ; tho steepness of their coasts, and the impossibility to an-
chor near the land, are such formidable obstacles, that it tries to the utmost
tho patience and perseverance of the mariner to acquire any knowledge re-
specting them. We are indebted to a Russian commander, CJapt. Golownin,
or Golovuiuo, who, in 1811, was charged with tho survey in tho Diana ; this
was completed with the exception of tho North sides of Kunasiri and
Itiu-up. Besides this, we have the observations of Admiral Kruseustern in
tlio Nadifjeda, in 1805 ; of I-n Pevouse and Broughton, before alluded to ; of
Langman, S])auberg, and by other Eusbian officers ; and also a chart by the
surveyor Gilaeff, made in 1790.

Alaid is the noi-themmost of the Kurilo Islands. It is small, and in lat.
SO"" 54' N., long. 155° 32' E. It lies rather within or to the West of tho
g;enoral line of the archipelago.

SUMSHU ISLAND would, therefore, be reckoned as the first island in
reckoning from Kamtchatka, Alaid not properly forming part of this group.
Its southern extreme terminates in a tongue of low land ; the North end is
the same, and is distant 10 miles from Cape Lopatka, in a S.W. \ W. direc-
tion. The island extends about 10 miles in a North and South direction,
and its centre lies in lat. 50° 4f>', long. 156° 26' E.

POEOMUSHIR ISLAND is among tho largest of the archipelago, being
20 leagues in length from N.E. to S.W. Its southern part is very mountain-
ous, the S.W. portion less so. There is also a high mountain in lat. 50° 15',
long. 155° 24' 15", Krusenstern says, "We could not approach the N.E.
extremity, which was hidden by the Island of Sumshu, separated from that
of Poromushir (or Paramushir) by a channel of a mile at most in breadth.
We nevertheless saw the South point of this last island over the low laud
of the extremity of Sumshu, and on a lino with Alaid Island, which then
bore N. 66° W.

Shirinky Island, which lies off the S.W. extremity of Poromushir, accord-
ing to Krusenstera's chart, and on w aich point is marked a peak, probably
a volcano, is small, being not mo"0 than 2 miles in diameter. It lies in Int.
50° 10' N., long. 154" 58' E. On Aug. 26, 1805, at noon, the Nadirjeda was
within 4 miles of it. It then bore from N. 2° E. to N. by E.

Monkonmshy Island is rather larger than the last, and is nearly of tlio
same form. It lies in lat. 49° 51' N., long. 154° 32' E.

2 o2

•m^i s»««mmm '>imiti»Kiivian<m

.Od-t

KUI^TLE ISLANDS.

Afos Rod-. — T.ieutonnnt IChwostoft' discoverwl in .Tuup, 1800, a rock Ivinsr
8 miles to tlie S.W. of Monkoumsliy Island, to which he gave the name of
Avon, becanso, in first .scoing it, he thought it was his consort, which was so
iiamed. This rock is surrounded by a dangerous reef, formed of rocks even
with the water's edge.

ONNEKOTAN ISLAND is 28 miles in extent from N.E. i N. to S.W. }
S. Admiral Krusenstern having sailed along its western shores at a short
dL'3tanc(\ it was distinctly .seen, which was not the case with its eastern face,
which was passed a long n ay off. The S.W. point, then named Cape Kre-
nitmi, lies in lat. 49° 19' N., long. 154° 44' E. ; and its S.E. extreme at about
2 miles still further to the South.

The Amphitrite Chumief or strait which separates this island from that of
Poromushir is 19 miles broad. It is very safe ; all ships going from Okhotsk
to Kamtchatka, or to tho American coast and returning, use this channel in
preference.

KHARAMUKOTAN ISLAND (or Kharim-kotan) lies S.W. i S. 8 miles from
Onnekotan. Although the channel separating these two islands is safe, the
currents in it arc so violent, that with liglit winds, or if overtaken by a calm,
the passage would become dangerous. The island is of a round forai ; it^
diameter is 7 miles ; a peak rising in its centre lies in lat. 49"^ 8' N., long.
1.54 -'39' E.

SHIASHKOTAN ISLAND lies 8 miles S.W. i W. from Khararaukotan,
and is 12 miles long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. Its centre is hi lat.
48' 32' N., long. 164^ 8' E. Ehwma Island is situated to the North of it,
not more than a mile off.

TshiriflkotaJl Island, oi- Chirin-kotan, is small, and scarcely more than 7
miles in circiiit, It lies 8 leagues to the West of the South end of Shiash-
kotan. in lat. 4S^' 44' N., long. \5'i° 24 E.

The Snares. — On August 30, 1805, Krusenstern discovered fom- small
ialots, or rather rocks, one of which is awash. He namfxi them tho Snai-es,
on account of the danger he was in from the currents he risked so miex-
pectedly. The strong currents around these rocks will always cause great
embari'assment to f very iship that passes near them. They lie S.E. \ E. from
Tshirinkota-n, in lat. 4S'' 3;V N., long, lo.')" 44' E.

Eaukoko or Raikoke Island is small but hilly. It has a high i)eak, lying
in lat. 48'- 16' 20" N., long. ioA' la' E.

Mataua Island lies directly to the South of Eaukoko. Golowniu Strati,
wliich aepaiates these two islands, i.s « or 10 miles In breadth. Mataua
Island is 6 miles in length from North to South. SaryUchcff 2\ak, standing
in its centre, is situated in lat- 48'^ *>' N., long. 153' 12' ,'50'" E.

Bashau Islaud, iu lat. 47'-' 47' N., long. 152° 65 E., is about 5 leagues in
circumference ; it lies to the South of Mataua Isknd. Krusenstern named
the strait which separates these tvro ir-ilands NatlicJeOa Strait, because his

SIMUSIK AND URUP ISLANDS.

56.5

, 1800, a rock lyiiif>'
I ptivo the immo of
isort. -whicli was so
(vmed of rocks even

E. i N. to S.W. V
! fihoros at a short
'itli its epstoru facts
'11 named Cape A're-
E. extreme at about

island from that of
foing from Okhotsk
use this channel in

W. i S. 8 miles from
islands is safe, the
^ertaken by a calm,
a round fonn ; itri
t. 49-^ 8' N., long.

3m Kharamukotan,
lt.s c(>iitro is in hit.
the North of it,

rcely more than 7
uth end of Shiash-

ovored foui' small
d them the Snai-es,
e risked so miex-
ilways cause great
rlieS.E. iE.from

a high i)eak, lying

Golowniu Strait,
breadth. Mataua
heff Peiik, standing
E.
ibout 5 leagues in
rusenstern named
Urait, because his

vessel was the first which passed it, in 1805. This channel is I(> miles broiid.
It is very safe, but the currents in it are violent.

At this part terminates the observations of Admiral Kruscnstern, and
those of Captain Golownin commence.

TTshishir Island succeeds to Eashau. It is composed of two islands, con-
nected by a reef of 400 yards in length ; each of these two small islands is
about half a league in length, N.N.E. and 8.S.W. A reef of rocks extends
from the northernmost of these islands towa-:ds Rasliau ; tlieso rocks aro
terminated by a small islet named Srednoij. It lies 10 miles to the S.W.
from the southern extremity of Eashau, and N.N.E. 3| miles from the
northernmost of the Ushishir Island. Its extent. East and West, is 1 mile.
The channel which separates Ushishir from Ketoy Island is very safe.
The southern point of Ushishir is in lat. 47" 32' 10 N., and long. 152"
38 30' E.

Ketoy Island lies 12^ miles to the S.W. of Ushishir. It is high and
mountainous, and about 8 miles in circumference. Its South extremity lies
in lat. 47" 17' 30' N., long. 152*" 24' E. Some rocks and islets extend for a
considerable distance off its N.E. and East sides.

SIMUSIR ISLAND is 27 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., and 5 miles in
breadth. It has a circumference of 25 leagues. In the northern part of it
there is a bay, which was also seen by Captain Broughton, after wlium it is
named ; although it is very spacious, this port is only navigable for small
vessels, on account of a reef lying in the middle of its entrance. At high
water there are only 12 to 15 feet, and at low water 6 feet dejitli in it The
peak named by La I'erouse Prevost Peak, is situated about 10 miles to S.W.
from the N.E. point of the island, and lies in lat. 47° 2' 50' N., long. 151°
52 50" E. At the southern extremity of the island, named by La I'erousa
Cafie iJoWn, there is a liigh mountain, in lat. 46^ 51' N., long. 151° 37' E.
The strait separating the Isl; mIs of Ketoy and Simusir has the name of
Diana Strait.

Jiroughton, Rebun(v')-i/)oi, and Jirat Chirm.!' U/iuidn, are between Simusir
and Urup, the next large island to the N.E. Tlie northern most, Broughton
or Makanruru Island (Round Island of Broughton), is of good height, bold,
and abrupt, sloping a little to the southward, near which end are some rocks,
and apparently the only place where a landing could be effected.

The two other islands, Eebuntsiriboi or Chirnoi, and Brat Chirnoef or
Chirnoi Brothers, lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. from eacli other, distant IJ miles.
Eebuntsiriboi, the northernmost of the two, is remarkable from its having
two conspicuous peaks of sugar-loaf form. A reef, which much resembles
an artificial iu-csalnv ater, extends a mile East from its North point, tind at its
extremity there is a high rock.

XIRUP ISLAND is the nearest land to the S.W. It was named by the
Dutch Companif's hlund. The N.W. point is hilly, as is all the island.

'^■'(tet»^9a8W!|'^*y?'S<regagswM»tJ^»>iti ^ iw'J.'M ^ <^ ^ ^ ^

5(jc KURILE ISLANDS.

which is covered with mountains, many of which tiro very high. It is 18
leagues in extent from N.E. to S.W., and its greatest breadth is about 5
leagues. Near its centre there is a remarkable peak, in shape like a hay-
cock, which can bo soon in clear weather at 50 miles, and is often visible
when the other portion of the island is obscured by fog, A chain of rocks
runs off from its N.E. point for a distance of 5 miles, in an E.N.E. direction,
and at the distance of a mile from tho shore there is a large rock of a pyra-
midal form, with two others smaller ; the first is sufficiently high to bo seen
in clear weather at 7 leagues' distance. The northernmost point of tho
island, named by La Perouse Cape Castricum, lies in lat. 4.6'^ 16' N., long.
150° 22' E., and the southernmost point, named by tho Dutch Cape Van der
Lind, in lat. 45° 39' N., long. 149° 34' E. At half a milo off the South point
of the island, bearing S.W., is a ro(;k of a circular form. Tho S.W. point
of tho island is low and steep, and continues so for about 15 miles in a
northerly direction, when it rises to a lofty mountain range ; a high and al-
most perpendicular rock, appearing like a sail when seen at a distance, lies
S.E. about 1 mile from the point.

Port Tavano is a small harbour on the eastern side of Urup, but it is open
to the eastward, and with the wind from that quarter a heavy swell rolls in,
which, with tho shallow water and rocks it contains, do not recommend it as
a safe anchorage. The entrance has 8 and 10 fathoms water, and is 120
yards across ; nearly in tho centre of tho port there are some rocks just
above water, with 4J and 5 fathoms close to. Water is procured from two
rivers at the head of the harbour. Salmon and rock fish are plentiful. It
was taken possession of by two French frigates on Sept. 3, 1865.

ITURUP or Yeterop Island, or Staaten Island, is separated from Urup by
the Strait of De Vries, discovered in 1643. The N.E. point of tho former.
Cape Okehets, is high and perpendicular, and is also remarkable by three
paps; it lies in lat. 45° 38' 30" N., long. 149° 14' E., the breadth of the strait
is consequently 13 J miles in an East and West direct'ou, Tho South point
of Iturup, Cape Tesiko, but which Krusenstem names Cape Rikord, lies in
44° 29' N. and 146° 34' E. The island is therefore 125 miles in extent from
N.E. \ E. to S.W, i W. Its greatest breadth is about 6 leagues. Captain
Golownin only examined tho southern part of the island ; the N.W. cape was
named by La Perouse Cape de Vries ; according to his obsei-vations it lies in
lat. 45° 37' N., long. 149° 1' E. The Japanese had two establishments, Sana
and Vrhitifh, on the S.W. part of Iturup.

TscHkotan, Sikolan or Spanherg Island.— To the South of the S.W. point
of Iturup is the I.'*land Tschikotan, which is called by Capt. Broughton Span-
berg Island. It is called in Cook's voyage, Nadecgsda.

The centre of the island, according to Golownin, is in lat. 43° 53' N., long.
146° 43' 30" E. The island is only 5 miles long in one direction. East
and West, and about the same North and South. In the centre of the

SEA or OKHOTSK.

very high. It is 18
t breadth is about 5
in shape like a hay-

and is often visible
ig, A chain of rocks
n an E.N.E. direction,

large rock of a pyia-
iently high to bo seen
lemraofit point of the
[at. 4.6'' 16' N., long.
Dutch Cape Van der
lilo off the Sonth point
,rm. The S.W. pohit
)r about 15 miles in a
range ; a high and al-
soen at a distance, lies

of Urup, but it is open
• a heavy swell rolls in,
io not recommend it as
ms water, and is 120
•0 are some rocks just
r is procured from two
fish are plentiful. It
pt. 3, 1865.

eparated from Urup by
3. point of the former,
o remarkable by three
the breadth of the strait
ct'ou, The South point
es Cape Rikord, lies in
[25 miles in extent from
3ut 6 leagues. Captain
md ; the N.W. cape was
is obsei-vations it lies in
;wo establishments, Sana

outh of the S.W. point
y Capt. Broughton Span-
fa.

8 in lat. 43° 53' N., long,
g in one direction, East
I. In the centre of the

island there rises n mount, even nud unifonn to tlie s.imniit. It is said that
a good harbour will bo found in tho S.W. part ..f i\xv island. At 9 or 10
miles distance from Tschikotan, bearing S.W. \ W„ there are several rocky
islets. Tlie space comprised between Jesso and T.schikotan, is tho Walvin
Bay of De Vries, in the same way that the small islets wo have just described,
between Jesso and Tschikotan, were named Walvis Islands.

KUNA-SIRI, or Kmmhire Maud, is tho last of the Kurilos. It is separated
from Ituvup by tlio Pico Channel. It was first traversed in l(iJ3, by Captain
Vries: next Captain I.oflzoff, in the Russian ship St. Catherine, in 1793;
Captain Brougliton, in 1797; and Captain Oolownin, in 1813, liave success-
fully passed through tliis strait. Krusenstern named the N.E. point Cape
LojMf; it is in lat. 41° 29' l.V N., long 146-' 8' W. ; the latitude is precisely
the siiine as that of tho South point of Iturup, so that the channel between
is 16 miles in width, East and West.

St. Antony's Peak, called by the natives Tschatchanobury, stands near the
N.E. point.

The S.W. part of Kunashire forais a bay, named by the officers of the
Diana, the Bay of Traitors, because it was here that the Japanese, after in-
viting Captain Golownin to land, seized him and made him prisoner. The
two points foi-ming the bay Uo in a N. 60° W. and S. G6° E. direction, llj
miles one from the other. The flood tide, which hardly rises beyond 4.i
feet comes from the East, and directs itself along the coast, and turns
around the S.W. point towards tho strait which separates Kunashire from
Jesso, and called the Strait of Jesso. The Japanese establishment on tho
Bay of Traitors is in lat. 43° 44' N., long. 144° 59' 30' E.

SEA OF OKHOTSK.

The Sea of Okhotsk, surrounded as it is on all its northern and western
sides by the continent, and to the 8.E. by the range of the Kurile Archi-
pelago, may be considered as completely land-locked. In this respect, as
weU as in size and general situation, it is not unUke Hudson's Bay.

Tho coast to the S.W. of Okhotsk was surveyed, but not verbally
described, by Sarytscheff and Tomine ; and of the Shantar Islands, and tho
great Peninsula of SaghaHn, wo have the details given by Broughten and
Krusenstern. In addition to these we have some details in the Russian
charts of 1849—51, but nothing satisfactory.

We have few particulars respecting tho open sea, its currents or its
soundings; but it is known to resemble the Sea of Behring in its skUlow-
ness, so that, at its centre, it is never above 200 fathoms, nor more than 50
fathoms at 50 mUes oflf the land. The shores are closely surrounded by

' ii i

:U.i

5(,R SEA OF OKHOTSK.

mountains whi.h occasions all the riv.rs, with one exception, to be insigni-

ficant iu their raagnitnde

The only river falling into this vast basiu is the Amur, if mdeed the Amur
can fairly he said to do so, tonninating as it does in a hay, which being
bounded hi front by the Island or renhisiUa of Saglialin, opens by one
Btrait into the ^ua of Okhotsk, and, perhaps, by another in the bea ol

^"oTe feature <,f interest in this remote expanse of waters is the field it
oilers for tlio whale fishery. These have at times been found to be very
numerous, and of late years the hardy American whalemen have hero
pursued successfully their gigantic game. _ ,. r ^ ^ u

NVlialing vessels frequent this sea from the beginning ot July to the
boginuhig of October, few, if any, being in it by the 10th of October. Ihe
.hores are covered with ice from November to April, but the main expanse
,.ontiimes open throughout the year, and being generally deep without any
apparent danger, its navigation is safe, notwithstanding the fogs and storms
with which it is often visited. n . ■ , f ^a

In fonner years, as has been before stated, the wludmg fleet interfered
very gi-eatly, by their trading, with the privileges of the Eussian-Ameriuui
Company, a fact wliich formed one great inducement for the Russian go-
vernment to transfer the Territory of Alaska to the United States. Since
that transfer, the Govenor-General of Eastern Siberia has declared that the
Sea of Okhotsk shaU be considered as a closed sea, and that vessels which
enter it for the whale fishery shall pay a duty equal to 10 roubles per anrnim
The number of vessels hitherto so engaged here has varied from 200

" CAPE LOPATKA, the South extremity of Kamtchatka, has been described

on page 562. , , . v t

The western coast of Kamtchatka is uniformly low and sandy, to the dis-
tance of about 25 to 30 miles inland, when the mountains commence. It
produces only willow, alder, and mountain ash, with some scattered pat.'hcs
(,f stimted birch trees. The runs of water into the sea from the mountains
do not, with the exception of the Bolshaya or BoIchoireJca, deserve the name
of rivers, though they are all weU stocked with fish from the sea in the
.oason as trout, and different species of salmon. They are generally at the
distance of 15 to 20 miles from each other. The Itxha and the Tigd are tlie
most considerable ; and neither of thorn have a course, with all the windings,
of more than 100 miles.

Bolcheretskoi is the place that is best known to Europeans on the ^\ est
coast, though its present insignificance scarcely deserves notice.. It was the
seat of the government of Kamtchatka previous to its removal to Petro-
imulovski Of course this abstraction has diminished its little importaiue,
and it is therefore seldom or never visited now by (•ommercial vessels. Ike

THE GULFS OF OIIIJINSK AND I'KNJINSK.

569

ption, to 1)0 insigiii-

if inclcfd the Anmr

Lay, which, Loiii^'

lalin, opens by one

it her in the Sen of

itors is the field it
(n found to bo very
hukuien have here

ling of July to the
ith of October. The
t the main expanse
[y deep without any
; the fogs and storms

aling fleet interfered
he Enssian-American
for the Russian Go-
Tnited States. Since
has declared that the
id that vessels which
10 roubles per annum,
has varied from 200

ka, has been deseribetl

and sandy, to the dis-
ntains commence. It
some scattered patches
1 from the mountains
>ha, deserve the name
I from the sea in the
ey are generally at the
r and the Tigil are the
, with all the windings,

Liropeans on the "West
■ves notice.. It was the
its removal to Petro-
il its little importance,
nmercial vessels. I'lie

expeditions under Captains Cook and Gierke visited it overland from
Avatcha Bay. Captain King's description of it is as follows :— " Bolche-
retskoi is situated in a low smampy plain, that extends to the Sea of Ok-
hotsk, being about 40 miles long, and of a considerable breadth. It lies
on the North side of the //oW'x/v'Za (or great river). Below the town tlie
river is from 6 to 8 feet deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It
empties itself into the Sea of Okhotsk, at the distance of 22 miles ; where,
according to Kvachenninikoff, it is capable of admitting vessels of a con-
siderable size.

Off the western coast of Kamtchatka the sea is shallow to a considerable
distance ; and the commanders of transport vessels, who never lose sight of
llie exposed coast if they can help it, judge of their distance from the laud,
in foggy weather, by the soundings, allowing a fathom for a mile ; nor is
there at the entrance into any of the rivers more than G feet at low water,
with a considerable surf breaking on the sandy beach.

The villages on this coast, beyond Bolcheretskoi, are Itshinsk and Tigilsk,
situated on the Tlijel or Tlijil and Itnha Rivera. IMiinsk contains a church,
and about ten houses.

Tliiihk, or Fort Tif/el, in lat. 58" 1' N., long. 158° 15' E., is the principal
place. Sauer says it contained forty five wooden houses and a church. It is
called by tlio Eussians a fortified town, is surrounded by wooden palisades,
and was built in 1752. It is a place of some importance in Kamchatka, as
tlie Koriak and Tchuktchi tribes j^ather around it in January, to exchange
their furs for tea, coffee, powder, lead, &c.

Besides these, there are eight inconsiderable villages, containing each three
or four houses, on the West coast.

The GULFS of GHIJINSK and PENJINSK, which form tlie N.E. por-
tion of the Sea of Okhotsk, are but very little known in a nautical view.
They run to the N.E., between Cape Uiliolotiikoi on Kamchatka, lat. 57" 60
N., long. 157" 18' E., and Cope Itliyan, in It. 58" 40', long. 152" 20', and
extending as far North as (32" 25'. They aro separated by a promontory,
terminating in Cape Taigomtslcoi.

Puntaresk, according to M. Lesseps in 1786, lat. Gl° 0' N., long. 162" 30'
E., is a small villnge on the side of a hill, the foot of which is bathed by
the sea. The river cannot be called such ; it is merely a narrow inlet of the
sea, reaching to the foot of the above mountain.

Jutmitioi, at the head of Prnjimk Gulf, is an ostrog, or village, about 300
versts distant from I'ustaresk. It is on an elevation nearly on the sea bhore,
and at the mouth of the Eivc: Penjina, in lat. 62" 0' N., long. 162 50' E.

Ghijega, or Fort Jljiginsk, lat. 61" 40', long. 160" E., at the head of the
gulf to which it gives its name, stands on the river of the same name, and
from without appears as a square enclosure defended by a palisade, accord-
ing to M. do Lesseps. The houses are all of wood, very low, and nearly all

TUmfH^ .'IJliy.'BtBCJ

570 SEA OF OKHOTSK.

of a uniform elevation. The population wore all members of, or attached to

the Russian service. The commerce is chiefly in furs, and that principally

reindeer skins.

Tlio Ohijinsk of the charts is situated on the river of the same name, about

8 miles from the coast of tho Ohijinsk Gulf. It is an insignificant village of

two or three hundred people, but it has more importance than its sizo would

lead to the belief. It is the seat of the local government, and i8 a centre of

trade with regard to the fur trade of the district. It is also tlie only place

for several hundred miles around whore the poor Eussian settler, or the

s«mi-civilized Kamtchatdale, can get any tea, sugar, or vodka (whiskey).

The governor, or Isprasnik, has only 25 Cossacks under him, and has no

power to visit a hundredth part of his immense territory.-(Mr. Whymper.)

It was made one of the stations of the intended Western Union Telegraph

route. Mr. Knox, who came here in the summer of 1866, in charge of this

part of the expedition, does not describe it as a territorial paradise.

The extent of coast between this and Okhotsk we have not found any

description of. r iv, ♦

OKHOTSK is the principal seaport, if it deserve such a name, of the sea to
which it gives the appellation. It stands on the N.W. side of the sea, m lat.

69° 20' N., long. HS" 14' E. , . * *v.

The shallowness of the water a long way off from the entrance of the
harbour, and the violence and cross set of the tides at the harbour s mouth
preclude the possibility of Okhotsk being an easily accessible port, except
for a small vessel. Necessity alone can induce the Russian government to
keep it at such an expense, and under its present circumstances.

Okhotsk was visited by Sir George Simpson in his overland journey. He
arrived here from Sitka, June 27th, 1842. "Okhotsk, now that we had
reached it, appeared to have little to recommend it to our favour, standing
on a shingly bea^h so low and flat as not to be distinguished at our distance
from the adjacent waters. We saw nothing but a number of wretched
buildings, which seemed to be in the sea, just as much as ourselves ; while,
from their irregularity, they looked as if actually afloat ; and even of this
miserable prospect one of the characteristic fogs of this part of the world
beerudged us fully one-half." ...,,, j

The tongue of land, about three-quarters of a mile in length, and one-
quarter of a mile in width, is so little elevated above the level of tho sea,
that when the southerly wind blows hard or continues long, the whole is al-
most sure to be inundated. The town lies about half a mile distant, situated
ontheleftbankoftheKuchtui. , „. ' ^ t, Ji„

A more dreary scene can scarcely be conceived. Not a tree, and hardly
even a green blade, is to be seen within miles of the town, and a stagnant
marsh in the midst of it must be, except when it is frozen, a nursery for a 1
sorts of malaria. The soU is on a par with the climate. Summer consists

■L«

PORT AIAN.

."iTl

of, or attached to
I that principally

same name, about
nificant village of
;han its sizo would

and is a centre of
[so tlie only place
ian settler, or the

vodka (whiskey).

him, and has no
-(Mr. Whympor.)
1 Union Telegraph
1, in charge of this

paradise,
ave not found any

name, of the sea to
le of the sea, in lat.

lie entrance of the
3 harbour's mouth,
jssible port, except
iian government to
itances.

rland journey. He
, now that we had
jr favour, standing
shed at our distance
Lumber of wretched
as ourselves ; while,
t ; and even of this
9 part of the world

in length, and one-
he level of the sea,
ong, the whole is al-
mile distant, situated

t a tree, and hardly
)wn, and a stagnant
sen, a nursery for all
,6. Summer consists

of throe months of damp and chilly weather, succeeded by nine months of
dreary winter, as raw as it is intense. The principal food of the inhabitants
is fish. The Sea of Okhotsk yields as many as fourteen varieties of the
salmon alone, one of them, the nerker, being the finest tiling of the kind
ever tasted. Fish is also the staple food of cattle and poultry. All other
supplies for the table are ruinously extravagant, as much of the stores
is burdened with a land-carriage of 7,000 miles. On such fare, and in such
a climate, no people could be healthy. Scurvy, in particular, rages hero
every winter.

Okhotsk has declined since Nicolaiefski was established, the interest
having been much drawn to the latter place. It is said to have about 600
inhabitants.

Bad as the Harbour of Okhotsk is, it is believed to be the best in the Sea
of Okhotsk. The coast between Okhotsk and Fort Oudskoi has been sur-
veyed by the Eussian Vice-Admirals, Sarytscheflf and Tomine, so we may
suppose them to be well represented on the charts.

FORT AIAN or Ayan, on the western coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, may be
recognized from the southward by Cape Vneshnei or Outer Cape, a high
barren promontory with several craggy peaks upon it, at a mile eastward of
its eastern point of entrance. The coast in the neighbourhood is high
and bold.

The inner part of the port is from one quarter to half a mile wide, and
three-quarters of a mile deep, and affords good shelter for small vessels, in
2 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the West side of the entrance is a reef
of rocks, with 4 fathoms close-to, barely covered at high water ; the eastern
shore is steep, and may be closely approached.

The climate here is abominable, and fogs are uninterrupted ; the ice breaks
up in June, and snow does not always disappear before August. The port is
frozen over in November.

Supplies are scarce in Port Aiac, sad difficult to be obtained. To the
southward of the entrance is a sandv bay, in which the soundings appear to
be regular, and where water may be conveniently procured. Scurvy
is common and fatal among the inhabitants, but the wild rhubarb grow-
ing close to the sea in many parts of the harbour, is of great service as an
anti-scorbutic*

* Ajan was visited by the allied squadron, and taken possession of in July 10th, 1856.
Mr. J. M. Tronson, who was on board H.M.S. Barracouta, gives a description of the place,
and their visit (pages 123—132). He says, " As we entered the port we could not but ad-
mire the beautiful scenery of this calm retreat, notwithstanding our wa-'ike mission. On
each side of the port a prominent headland projects. Cape Vneshnei, the outer cape, is in

Ifi

■T&rr.

'u'2

KURILE I8IANDS.

JONAS or St. Jonas Island, a collection of naked rocks, discovored by
Captain BilliiigH in tho Russian corvette Slaia lioinii, lies otl' this portion of
the coast. Its position was ascertained by Admiral Krusenstem, in 1805,
lis lat. 5(1^ 25' ;)0', long. 143" W E. It ifi about 2 miles in circumference,
and 1,200 feet luKh. Off its West side this islet is entirely surrounded by
detached rocks, against which the waves beat with great violence, and which
extend a considerable distance below the surfnce of the water.

Fort Oudskoi (OudHkoi Ostrog), a oonsidorable establishment, was deter-
mined by Lieutenant Kosniin, in 1829-30, to be in lat. 64^ 29' N., long.
134^ 58' E. Tort Oudskoi, or Ouda, lifs on tho left bank of tlio Kiver
Oudn, at above 20 miles from its mouth, which is in lat. or 44' N., long.
134" 2.")'E.

The 8HANTAE or Shantarski Islands were also surveyed by Lieutenant
Kosmin, who accompanied Captain Wrangel in his Siberian expeditions.
From that survey it appears that the principal of the group is Great Shautar
Jsland, which is W* miles long, in an East and West direction, and of an
equal breadth from North to South. Notwithstanding tliis extent of coast,
it does not appear to afford any port, but the 8.W. point of the island pro-
jects to the S.W., so as to form an open bay to the eastward of it. IJetweeu
this point and Ciqie Nikla and Boiiffaw/ra, the nearest point of the continent,
14 miles distant, are two islets, JSnnier and Jhnk Mawh. These are sur-
rounded by rocks and reefs; one of these rocks is 30 feet high. The North
point of Great Shantar is in lat. 65' 1 1' N. long. 137= 40' E ; its South poiut
is in lat. 54° 56'. To the South of it are some small islands. To the East of
it are two islands, one in lat. 55° 2' N., long. 138» 22', is called Prokojieff,
the other, in lat. 54° 43', long. 138° 12', Koa^xojf. At the distance of 6 miles
to the West of the Shantar Islands is Feklktoff Inland. It is 20 miles in ex-
tent, from N.W. to S.W. ; its breadth being about one half. This island
has also no port nor shelter.

Tugursk Bty and Eiver are to the southward of the Shantar Islands.
They were partially examined, in 1806, by an officer of the Russian navy,
Borissoff.

From the mouth of the River Ouda, before described, the coast, for an
extent of 50 miles, runs nearly in an East direction to a point behind which
is a smaU bay named the Bay of Swans. The western point of this bay is
Cape Dou!fands}w,&ndirom this o&l^eU> the mouth of the liner 'Tugur, the
coast runs South ; it forms, with a promontory lying 25 miles more to the

lat 56' 25' 5U', long. IStt" 26' 50' E. ; the other West of this is distant about 6 miles. Ayan
was formerly a fost of the Russian-American Company, but owing to the competition of tho
numerous whulei-s, who ..11 traded with the natives, it ba.l Riven up aU busi.icsB on the
roast before ihe traneftr ol their interest to the United Stales.

cs, diBcovored by
ifl' this portion of
ensteru, in 1H05,
in oircuml'erence,
ly surroundod by
uleiico, and which
ter.

ment, wah deter-

54" 29' N., lon«.

ank of tlio ]{iver

J4" 44' N., long.

yed. by Lieutenant
oriim expeditions,
p is Oreat Shnntar
ection, and of an
is extent of coast,
of the ishind pro-
d of it. lietweeu
t of the continent,
. These are sur-
high. The North
E ; its South point
Is. To the East of
is called rrokojiejf,
distance of 6 miles
t is 20 miles in ex-
half. This island

) Shantar Islands,
the Bussian navy,

the coast, for an
point behind which
)int of this bay is
B River Tugur, the
miles more to the

at about 5 miles. Ayan
) the competition of the
up all bubiiiciiB ou the

ISIAXI) OF SAOTI.M.IX.

■,T.\

South thnn Cnpe Doug/vndHha, tlio /la;/ n/ Tiiijin:*!;, thn oponing of whli h is
12 niiloH, and tluMlopth, us nbovf, 2.') miles. Tills pronuuitdry is callod Chjh'
Linckimkoji, and is in lat. 64^ 14', long. 1.'17' 24'. The Kivor Tugur falls
into tho head of tlie bay in lat. .'iir 40'. The coast botwcou this and <V//'c
Khabaroff, in lat. 63^ 40', long. 14 r 22', is but unknown.

ISLAND OF SAOTT.VLIN.

The name applied to this great island is derived from tlio Mantchous, who
thus call it after their groat river, Saghulin Ula, the Amour, which falls into
the sen opposite the N.W. coast of this island. Besides the term Saghalin,
geographers have given it the names of Oku-Jenno, of Krnflo or Karafta, of
Tuchuka, and of Sandan. It is called Turakni by the natives.

The natives would appear to be very few in number, as scarcely any signs
whatever were seen on all tho eastern side by Captain Krusenstern, who
closely examined this coast, and from tlio second volume of whoso voyage the
subsequent particulars are chiefly gleaned. They were principally found in
the service of the Japanese in Aniwn Lay. They are called Ainos, as are
natives of the adjacent Island of Jesso, and are certainly the same peojde
that, since Spnnberg's time, have been called Hairy Kuriles. The Ainos
are ratlu<r below the middle stature ; of a dark, nearly black, complexion,
Mitli a thick bushy beard, and black, rough, straight hair ; except in the
b<3ard, they resemble the Kamchadales. The women are ugly, but modest
in the lilghost degree. Their characteristic quality is goodno.ss of heart, as
is expressed in their countenance. Their dross consists chiefly of the skins
of seals and dogs, of which latter tlioy keep great abundance. Thoy ap-
peared to live in the most happy way in their domestic life. Their numbers
must bo very inconsiderable, as only about 300 wore seen in Aniwa Vtay,
and very few elsewhere ; it may be presumed that there are none iidand, as
their food is chiefly fish.

Captain Krusenstern is inclined to doubt the ancient accounts of. its inha-
bitants.

The Inland of Saghalin extends in a North and South direction about 170
leagues. Its breadth, in general, does not exceed 25 leagues ; but in its
northern part it is not more than 3 leagues. The southern part, as well
as the northern, terminates in a bay. The Dutch gave the name of
Aniwa Bay to the southernmost. Captain Krusenstern called the other
North Bay.

The island is mountainous ; two ranges extend respectively N.W. and
N.E. from its southern extremes, and meet in Bernizet Peak in 47° 33' N.
Its western face is steep, the eastern low and sandy. The middle district
of the island is flat and swampy, but to the North hilly and fertile. It is

i i

ift

!:! <i

z.^^^ig^^g^^-mp^^'^^^'S^m'?^^^^!^^^^^^^^^^'^^'^^^'-

Uj^

^74 RAOnAl.lN ISLAND.

w,ai wooded throughout. «n.l largo ,iuantitio« of timhcr arc cxportcl to Japan

'''^:^Z::ZZr^ .... or th. i.and. and on it« Wo« ^o around
Jon X my it vi.oHto the Burfn... and is of fair quality ^V hah. aro
JouT :t/Ea.t„nd Wo«t coast. «.hnon and herrings «^'"-^- J' jj^
he doop bay of Aniwa on the 8outh. into which two ^^'^'^^^^
the Japanese have OHtablished an oxtenmvo salmon fmhory. >Nator
lldlat all parts, and drift wood for fuel is J-^'-Jj^y}— ^
along the western coast. Tho northorn port.on of the island .s inhub t ,
byOluli"!'''. and the southern by Aino«, aborigines of Yezo, a race ot

Bmall stature. •■ • • i„f r.j . of

CAPE ELIZABETH is tho North point of the mlan.l ; .t .« m lat. o4 J I
30 N.. and long. 142^ 47' E., and in a high mass of rock, form.ng ho
extremity of a continuous chain of mountains. It is very romurkab -
from a number of high pointed hills, or rather naked rocks, upon winch
neUher tree nor verdure is visible. It descends gradually towards tho
" and at the brink of the precipice is a pinnacle or small peak, hecn
from the West, it is exceedingly like Cape Lopatka. e>.,.pt that U .s

^^'Ce Maria is in lat. 54^ 17' 30", long. 142° 17' 45' E. It is lower than
Capt Bilabeth, and consists of a chain of hills all nearly of the same eleva-
tion It slopes gently down to the sea. and terminates in a steep prec.p.ce,
from whence a dangerous reef runs to the N.E.

North Bay ^Serernaia GuhaJ, lies between these two capes, wh.ch he
K rTE and 8 65" W., 18 miles from eP.ch other. The bay lies very
Tpen but a^peld to be' safe, especially in summer, whe.^ North winds

"slSeda Bay (or Nadeshda Bay), to the S.E. of Cape xvl aria, on the

the naturalist, on board the Nadiejeda ^Wn fh« S W • between

The N W. coast of Saghalin is inBnitely preferable to the S.W. , between
the mountains, which are entirely overgrown with the thickest forests are
;Jley8 which appear very capable of cultivation. The shores are broken,
Lmost el.ry where of a yellow colour, which gives the coast the appearance
^betrh LedinbyLartificialwall. The confines of the high and low
1 nds are precisely in the same parallel as on the opposite side ; and beyond
the limitsfto the S.S.W., as far as the eye could reach, nothing cou^d be
leen but L low sandy shore, with here and there a few insulated but pic-

CAPE lioWENSTKRN.

at:)

exported to Jnpan

1 Wost Bido arouml
iiility. Wlial«8 iii'J
igH aliDund, nnd in

largo stroams full,

fiuhory. Wivtor in

1 in lar^o quiintitios

island is inluibiti'il

of Yezo, a ruco of

; it IB in lat. S4'^ '21'
[ rock, forrainB tlm
is very romurkabli"
[ rocks, upon which
adually towards tho
r small peak. Seen
a, eMt'pt that it is

E. It is lower than
ly of the same olova-
I in a steep precipice,

two capes, which lie

The bay lies very

, when North winds

; Capo iVlaria, on the
for anchorage, as the
N., long. 142° 27' 34 "
ily be procured hero.
er, after Dr. Honior,

to the S.W. ; between
e thickest forests, are
be shores are broken,
) coast the appearance
3S of the high and low
osite side ; and beyond
ach, nothing could be
few insulated but pic-

65' E., forms with Cape

Romborg, on the coast of Turtnrn, the entrance into the Gulf of Amur, boforo
mentioned.

Having beforn alluded to tho Amur Rivor nnd this part of tho coast, wo
return again to the North point, and proceed to doscribo tho oostorn coast
of the pmiinHuhi,

CAPE L0WEN8TERN is in lat. r,r 3' l.V N., and 1 VV V2' 30' E. Tt wa^
named after Krusonstern'H third lieutenant. Tiio nppoarance of tho coast
betwoon this ct i*. and Capo Elizabeth is very dreary: no traces of vogota-
tion are apparent, and tho whole coast ia iron-l)Ound, consisting of ono
mass of bhick grnnitorock, with hero and there a whito spnt ; tho depth at
3 mil.'H oil' shore was K) fathoms, rocky bottom. In front of Capo Lawon-
stern there is a large rock.

Southward of it tho shore ia evorywhoro steep, and in several places con-
sists of rocks of a chalk-liko appearance.

Cape Klokatcheff is in lat. 53^ 40', long. 143^ 7' E., and near it appeared
to be the mouth of a considerable river, as tho land appeared to be uncon-
nected. Caps Wnrd is in lat. r.2° 57' 30', long. 143^ 17' 30". A long way
inland there are several considerable high lands, the coast being, as far as
tho eye can reach, composed of flat sand. Shoal Point, or Capo Otmeloi, in
lat. .'J2'' 32' 30", long. 143" 14' 30', may easily be known by a hill of tolerable
height, which on this flat coast almost merits the name of a mountain, ami
forms a very remarkable object. At this point the coast recedes to tho
westward, and hexQ a. dangerom shoal lies. It is in lat. 52' 30' N., and stretches
probably for some miles North and South at a distance of 10 miles from the
shore. This is the only one met with off the coast, and has 4j to 8 fathoms
on its outer edge.

Downs Point is in lat. 5P 53' N., long. 144° 13' 30" E. It is remarkable
for a round hill. To the northward of it is a chain of five hills, of a
billowy form, having the appearance of islands in this extended plain.
Tho whole coast here, like that to the southward, is scarcely raised above tho
water's edge.

Cape Delisle, named after the astronomer Delisle de la Croyt^re, is in lat.
bV 0' 30", long. 143" 43', and forms the boundary of the mountainous part
of Shaghalin, for to the northward of it there is neither high land nor a
single mountain, the shore everywhere consisting of sand, of a most danger-
ous uniformity.

Cape Eatmanoffis in lat. 50° 48' N., long. 143° 53' 15" W. It terminates
in a flat neck of land, stretching a consideiable distance into the sea. The
coast hereabouts is invariably craggy, and of a yellow colour. Cape Rimnik
is in lat. 50" 12' 30", long. 144" 5' E. At the back of it, some miles inland,
is Mount Tiara, so named by Krusenstern from its form, a tolerably high
flat hill, remarkable for having three points on its summit. It is in lat.

ill

rssamssP'

^**

r.7f.

SAdlTAUN rSl.ANDS.

From its parallel tho coast trends Soutli

oO^ .r N., long. 216' 23' W.
30° East.

Cape Bellingshausen is in Int. 19" ;?o' N., lon.c;. M l"^ 2.V -iry E. Seven
miles S.S.W. of it is a point wliicli was thought to oiler a good harbour.
Tho slioro is very abrupt and entirely white. Fluf Bay, in lat. 4!)' 6', is sur-
rounded on all f^ides by a country very low. It is a deep opening, in which
ovuu from tho masthead no land could be described.

Cape Patience is the most prominent and the easternmost cn.pe of Sag-
lialin. It is in lat. 48'' 52' N., and long. 144" 46' 15" E., and is a very low
romontory, formed by a double hill, terminating abruptly. From this a
Hat tongue of land projects pretty far to the South. The Hat hill near Flat
Bay is tho first high laud in that direction. By this hill Cape Patience,
■which, owing to its little elevation, is not easily perceived, may soon b(!
recognised.

PATIENCE BAY is extensive, and limited to the East by the capo of the
same name, and to tho West by Cape Soimonoff. Cape Patience is sur-
rounded by a rocky shoal, extending a considerable distance.

Eobben Island, surrounded by a very dangerous reef, lies off Cape Pa-
tience. Capt. Krusenstorn saw and examined tho extent of this reef. Tho
N.E. front he places in lat. 48" 36', and long. 144° 33', and that part which
maybe considered as the S.AV. extremity is in lat. 48° 28', and long. 144"
10' E., so that its whole circumference is about 35 miles. The middle of
Eobben Island is in lat, 48" 32' 15", and long. 144° 23'. The channel be-
tween the cape and the reef was not examined. The ship Castricom, under
the Dutch commander De Vries, anchored here in 1643, and gave the names
to the bay, &c. In the N.E. corner of the bay is the mouth of a tolerably
larger river, named tlie Xeva. Its entrance, in lat. 49" 14' 40", and long.
216° 58', is about half a mde wide. Off its mouth the water was fresher,
and branches of trees were among the clayey soundings. A smaller river
debouches to the southward.

Cape Soimonoif, in lat. 48° 53' 20", and long. 143° 2', is the western limit
of Patience Bay ; it is a high promontory, iirojecting very much to tho
eastward. Cape Balrymple, named after the English hydrographer, is in lat.
48° 21' N., and long. 142° 50'. It is formed by a high mountain, lying close
upon the beach in a North and South direction, and is the more easily
known from being altogether isolated. The coast trends S. by W., consist-
ing of lofty mountains, divided by deep valleys, the shore being steep and
rocky. The whole country is more agreeable in prospect than further South.
Cape Mukffshj, a projecting point of laud, is in lat. 47° 57' 45", and long.
142° 44'. Bemizet Peak of La Pcrouse is probably the same as Mount Span-
herg of the Dutch. It is a lofty, rounded mountain, in lat. 47° 33', and long.
142° 20'.
Cape Seniavine is a high point of land, in lat. 47° 16' 30", and long.

oast trends Soutli

2.V -J.)" E. Hoven
t' a good harbour.
11 lat. 4!)^ 5', in Kiir-
opening, in which

imost ccpe of Sag-
, and is a vory low
[)tly. From this a
- flat hill near Elut
lill Cape Patience,
ived, may soon be

by the capo of tlio
36 Patience is siu-
nce.

', lies off Cape Pa-
; of this reef. Thi'
nd that part whicJi
28', and long. 144--
38. The middle of
The channel be-
ip Castricom, under
and gave the names
iiouth of a tolerably
^ 14' 40", and long,
water was fresher,
s. A smaller river

is the western limit
; very much to the
Irographer, is in lat.
lountain, lying close

is the more easily
.8 S. by W., cousist-
ire being steep and

than further South.
" 57' 45", and long,
ame as Mount Span-
it. 47° 33', and long.

1(3' 30", and long.

CAPE AMWA-CAPE CEILLON. 51'j

142° 59' 30'. To the northward of it the coast is low, and falls suddenly
off to the westward ; to the southward are lofty mountains.

Mordwinoff Bay lies to the southward of this, and is limited to the East
by Cape Tonin. Plenty of water was found in it in many places, and abun-
dance of firewood. Cape Tonin is in lat. 46" «0', long. 143° 33', It is of
moderate height, and entirely overgrown with fir trees. A chain of rocka
stretches to the northward from it.

Cape Lowenorn is in lat. 46° 23' 10', long. 143' 40'. It is a steep pro-
jecting rock, easily to be distinguished from the rest of this coast by its
yellow colour. North of it the coast assumes rather a westerly direction, and
consists of a chain of large lofty mountains.

CAPE ANIWA, or Siretoko the S.E. projection of Saghalin, is in every
respect a remarkable promontory, the more so from a chain of high moun-
tains near it, stretching away to the northward, between which and the cape
is a hollow that gives it the appearance of a saddle. The headland itself is
a steep, abrupt mass of rocks, perfectly barren, and having a deep inlet at
its point. The position was very carefully observed by Captain Krusenstem ;
it is in lat. 46° 2' 20" N., long. 143° 30' 20" E.

ANIWA BAY occupies the southern end of Saghalin. Its opening is
between Cape Aniwa on the East and Cape Crillon on the West, 64 miles
apart ; its head is at Salmon Bay, 50 miles within the line of opening.

From Cape Aniwa it runs first in a northerly direction, then inclining a
little to the West to a headland, which projects also to the West, and from
this, as far as the head of the bay, it runs North and South. In this part of
the coast is a rock called the Pyramid on the charts.

Tamary Aniioa is apparently tho name given by the Dutch to the project-
ing point on the East side of the bay abovo alluded to. Here was a Japa-
nese establishment, perhaps more considerable than that at Salmon Cove.
The harbour is somewhat sheltered against the South wind, but too small
for a ship of considerable size to be there. There were about one hundred
dwellings of the Ainos.

Lachforelhn or Salmon-Trout Bay is entirely exposed to the South; which
are here said to be the prevailing winds, and consequently the road is by no
means safe. The great surf is also an obstacle to landing. Tamary Aniwa
is its S.E. point. The Japanese had hero also a lai-ge establishment. Salm
or Salmon Bay is at the head of Aniwa Bay. Krusenstern's anchorage off it
was in lat. 46° 41' 15", and long. 142° 32'. The Japanese factory, at tho
mouth of the small river, bore N. 49" W. 2 J miles.

The West side of Aniwa Bay is throughout very mountainous. A flat
and rather projecting mountain, in the direction of the coast, which trends
S.S.W., is alone distinguished for its greater height.

CAFE CBILLON or Notoro is the )S.W. limit of Aniwa Bay, and the
South extremity of Saghalin. It is in lat. 45° 54' 15" N., long. 141° 57' 56".
North Pacific. 2 v

; I

■WiSCT*75|i?f^^^4^:«^'^'?fJ^?-:i^K:^''??«'»^-?^<^^^

[

5,8 LA PEROUSE STRAIT.

At a sh(irt (liHtanoo from it is a small round rock, and another small rock is

lit its oxtreniity.

La Davgerewe Rock lios off it. This, wi h the cape, were thus named by
Jm IVtouso. The rock is correctly termed ; it is about 20 feot high, and GO
feet in diameter. It should not bo approached nearer than a mile, as rocky
lodges extend around it, and is 8.\ miles S.E. i S. from Cape CriUon, and is
ill Int. 4.')" 17' 15', and long. 142'^ R' 45". It lies in the middle of tlie strait
of La Perouse, which separates Saghalin from the Island of Yezo.

LA PEEOUSE STRAIT.
This strait is formed between Cape Crillon or Notoro, tlie southern end of
Sughalin, and Cape Soya, the North extreme of Yezo. The general sound-
ings in it are 35 to 40 fathoms and upwards, decreasing to 25 and 20 fa-
thoms as the shores are neared ; but as these latter depths will be found in
the middle of the strait near the Dangerous Rock and in other places, the
lead in thick weather cannot always bo trusted to ensure safety.

There are heavy overfalls, giving the appearance of a reef, between Cape
Crillon and Dangerous Eock, but deep water was found on passing through.
Neither this cape nor Cape Nossyab should be closed by a sailing vessel,
without a commanding breeze, on account of the tide race off them.

Refunsiri Island, lying off the South side of the western entrance to La
Perouse Strait, is in shape an acute-angled triangle, 1 1 miles long, and 31
miles wide at the base which is its North end, where there is a shallow bay,
with rather a populous village. The summit of a range of hills, the highest
part of which is nearly in the centre of the island, attains an elevation of
1,300 ft., but it is so close to Pic-de-Langle on Eisiri as to appear to the eye
much lower.

The shores of this island appear to be clear of outlying dangers, except
the North end, where the ground is foul. Nearly 2 miles North of the N.E.
point of the island, and about East 2^ miles from Bomaiiri, an islet 1 mile
northward of the N.W. point of the island, is the dangerous rock discovered
by H.M.S. Bittern in 1855, but it nearly always breaks.

Bisiri Islauu is about 7 miles S.E. of Refunsiri, and the passage between
is quite clear of all known danger, and may safely be taken. This island,
from its great height, becomes, for vessels approaching from the southward,
a conspicuous mark for the West entrance of La Perouse Strait. It is nearly
circular in shape, with a generally low shore rising abruptly from the sea.
No dangers of any importance are known in its vicinity ; a few detached
rocks exist, but they lie close inshore. It was first seen by La Perouse, who
took it for a mountain on the mainland of Yezo, and named it Pic-de-Langlo.
Its summit attains an elevation of 6,900 feet, and may be seen in clear
weather from a distance of 70 or 80 miles. It is generally capped with
snow, and often peers out most usefully above the harassing fogs.

n -i pwy-M.Ti ' ww/^ ' '

CAPE NOSSYAB, ETC.

'.70

notbcr small rock ir

were thus named by

20 feot high, and GO

;ban a mile, as rocky

Cape Crillon, and is

middle of the strait

id of Yezo.

3, tlie southern end of
The general sound-
ing to 25 and 20 fa-
epths will bo found in
d in other places, tlie
re safety.

a reef, between Cape
.d on passing through,
jd by a sailing vessel,
race off them,
'estem entrance to La
11 miles long, and '6}
;hero is a shallow bay,
ge of hills, the highest
attains an elevation of
as to appear to the eye

tlying dangers, except
niles North of the N.E.
omanri, an islet 1 mile
agerous rock discovered
ks.

nd the passage between
be taken. This island,
ng from the southward,
)US0 Strait. It is nearly
abruptly from the sea.
icinity ; a few detached
een by La Porouse, who
named it Pic-de-Langle.
d may bo seen in dear
generally capped with
arassing fogs.

A bluff point, called NaMo Head, JTittin;? out on tlm north-east side of
tlio inland, forms a small bay, which alYonh slu'ltor from 8.E. round to
W.N.W.

Totomosiri, or Monneron hhml, lying N.W. l)y W. J W. 32 miles from
Capo Notoro, is of moderate height, without tho volcanic nppoaranco of Bo-
funsiri or of Risiri. Thero are three rncks awash lying about a mile off its
eastern shore, and another about a mile olT its N.E. point. Thero is a spring
on Totomosiri, from which whalers are in the habit of watering, but with
groat difhculty and labour.

CAPE NOSSYAB, tho N.W. point of Yezo Island, is the abrupt but
rather sloping termination of a remarkable table land, and appears like an
island at a distance. Extending a milo northward from the cape is a flat
narrow tongno of land, only a few feet above the sea, having upon it a few
huts and a fishing station. From the extreme point of this low land a shoal
rocky spit, partly covered with weed, extends N.N.W. upwards of a mile,
with but little water over it in places, and at its extremity a depth of 2J
fiithoms, which rapidly deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms.

CAPE SOYA, the North extreme of Yezo, may easily be recognized,
sometimes even in a fog, by a remarkable whito rook lying off it to tho west-
ward, and which appears to be surrounded with broken ground.

Romanzov Bay.— Between Capes Nossyab and Soya is an extensive bay,
in which tho land, covered with rank verduro, slopes towards tho sea mar-
gin. Several huts are distributed along the shores of the bay ; and about
5 miles S.W. from Cape Soya is a largo Japanoso village or fishing station.
A vessel intending to take shelter here should bo careful to keep 3 or 4 miles
off shore.

H.M.S. Ad(ton, in September, 1859, while engaged in surveying the
islands Risiri and Rifunsiri, was blown by a W.S.W. gale through the
strait of La Porouse. The atmosphere was so laden with spray as to render
it impos.sible to fix the position of the ship accurately.

Vessels bound through the strait from the eastward with an adverse wind,
would do well to stand across and work to windward in Aniwa Bay, where
they would have smooth water, no current, and perhaps find an eddy in
their favour. At present no dangers are known in this bay.

Cape Crillon, the S.W. point of Snghalin, above alluded to, from a dis-
tance of 10 or 12 miles makes like an island. On its summit, 124 feet high,
is a small shrine, and 4 miles North of the cape is a conspicuous hill {Quoin
Hill), which rises abruptly from the shore to an elevation of 1,025 feet.
A range of hills, varying from 800 to 1,200 feot in height, amongst which is
one of sugar-lo'.i,f form, stretches along the coast to the N.E. of Quoin Hill.

The Tmnia Rod, 72 feet, conspicuously marks the position of the point of
the same Df\me, at 8J miles N.E. by N. of the summit of Cape Notoro. Fr.)ra
the Tsisia Rock the coast trends about N. by E. for some considerable dis-

2 !■ 2

I
!

-.^ilSKeOT^^i?S®^®S^:sg6'^^!SS^

f^'s»r :'X;'H'<- f g:J<i^ ' J!!^K-:A:W^.,.->^ ' !'.-^ '<-^^^'j"''-"^"'

r,8o OULF OP TAIITARY.

tancG. Anchorage may bo takou in 8 or I'i fathoms anywhoro along llio

roast botwoon Cape Notoro and the THisia Hock.

On tho wostorn aido, and 3 miles northward of the c^apo, and near a
Japanese fisliing-station, is an (^xtonsivo patcli of dangerous rocks, covered
at high water ; they lio about a mile off shore.

Tlio island of Yezo will be described hereafter.

Tn and about La Porouao Strait tho tides and currents are very irregulnr,
and they are probably much influenced by prevailing winds. Tliey are
felt mostly inshoro, particularly round Capos Crillon and Nossyab, whore
at tioics they become perf.u.t races. It is high water near those capes, full
and change, between 10" and IP, and the rise is about 6 feet.

GIJLF OF TAllTAEY.

Tho entrance of the Gulf of Tartary, which ii.sulatos Saghalin, is 170
miles wide between Cape Crillon and Cape Disappointment on tho Tju-tary
coast. The western coast of Saghalin trends irregularly to the northward

for 370 miles.

From Capo Disappointment, in lat. 45"^ 40 J' N., tlie coast of Manchuria
trends to tho N.E., and forms, with the W. coast of Saghalin Island, tlie long-
channel named tho Gulf of Tartary, which communicates with the Gulf of
Amur to tho northward by Tartary Strait. This strait may bo considered tr)
begin on tho parallel of about 51" N. ; on tho parallel of Castries bay th"
coasts of Manchuria and SaghaHn converge rapidly ; and abreast Cape Ca-
therine, in 5^ .57' N., they are only 7 miles apart ; 17 miles further North,
between Capes Lazaref and Pogobi, they approach to within 3J miles ; ami
this is tho gorge of the strait, and tho entrance into tho GuK of Amur.

The only ports at present known in the gulf are Barracouta Harbour and
Castries Bay on its western coast, and Jonqui^ro Bay on its eastern. The
anchorage along the eastern coast is safe during the summer months, wh6n
easterly winds prevail ; but a vessel must be prepared to weigh, should tho
wind veer to tho West.

Tho navigation of tho guK would bo simple enough, but the fogs render
it dangerous, requiring tho greatest caution to be observed. It has boon
remarked by former voyagers, and this was confirmed in 18.5.5-50, that on
nearing the land in these seas a vessel will suddenly emerge from the fog

or find it lift.

Wood and water can be procured in abundance and with facility, on all
parts of the coast of the gulf, and coal, of fair quality, in any quantity at
Jonquiere Bay. Fish and wild fowl are plentiful. Very fine codfish have
been caught in soundings from 73 to 30 fathoms.

Winds.— Diu'ing May, June, and July, tho winds in this gulf prevailed

any-whoro along tlio

10 capo, and noar a
;erou8 rocks, covered

B are very irrogulnr,
g winds. Thoy aro
and Nossyab, wliore
noar those capes, full
6 foet.

atos Saghalin, is 170
tinent on tho Tju'tary
arly to the northward

le coast of Manclmria

fhalin Island, tlie long

itos with the Gulf of

may ho considered to

il of Castries bay thr*

ind abreast Cape Ca-

miles further North,

within 8^ miles ; and

lie GuK of Amur.

rracoxita Harbour and

i.y on its eastern. Tlie

ummor months, when

i to weigh, should tlie

1, but the fogs render
bserved. It lias boon
ed in 185.5-56, that on
r emerge from the fog

d with facility, on all
lity, in any quantity at
Very fine codfish have

5 in this gulf prevailed

HADSni JIAY.

581

from tho southward and eastward, sonu>tinies blowing a double iind even
troble-roefod topsail breeze. Occasionally iu May a furiou.s south-easterly
gale and snow stomi, lasting ten or twelvo hours, liavo been experienced,
and thoy may bo expected with a previously freshening broezo from East
and S.E., and soniotimos a rapidly fall'.xig barometer. Tho wind hi these
storms rises suddenly, and falls equally so, and will most probably veer to
South, S.W., "West, Iind perhaps N.W.

In tho end of August and during October the winds wore chiefly from
S.W. to N.W. and North ; they are probably tlio saiuo in September.

In October foul weather appears to come on as tho w ind draws to tho
eastward of North, but by all accounts tho heaviest gahsa may bo e.Kpecte.l
from N.W., and these prevail through tho winter.

Fogs.— From March till August fogs aro almost continuous in the gulf,
with si'ar('oly any clear interval for more than a day or twi) at a tiuio; they
are most prevalent and dense iu June, aud ox-o immediately dispersed iu
S.W. winds ; tho mercury is little affected by them.

In August, September, and part of October, fair clear weather comes in
agreeable contrast, although in tho latter month snow oceasiunally falls.
Tlio change of weather about tho middle of October is sudden, winter gene-
rally usurping tho warmth of summer in a day, and setting in with all its
vigoui' ; at tliis period ice begins to form in Tartary Strait, and the se-ason
for sailing vessels to be in the gulf on oriliuary occasions must bo considered
as having terminated.

Suffrein Bay, formed by Cape Suffreiu to the South, in lat. 47'' 20' N., is
but an exposed anchorage, surrounded by vast forests which extend out of
sight. The cape is fronted by rocks, which stretch half a mile uito tho
olfing. Fiih River, in 47" 35' N., has anchorage off its entrance in 9 fathoms,
at about a mile from the land, sheltered from N.W. and westerly winds.

Low Cape, in 48" 28' N., has high laud behind it, and a depth of 8 fathoms
was obtained a mile olf shore.

From Low Capo the coast-line northward is irregular for 15 miles ; its
trend is then N. by E. 20 miles to Beachy Head. It is steep-to, tho lead
giving 14 to 17 fathoms at 2 miles oft' shore.

HASSHI or Barracouta Bay.— The entrance to this bay (named also
Port Imp<:rial), in lat. 49" 2' N., is between Freeman Point on the North, and
mio hland on tho South, which bear N. by W. and S. by E. from each
(.ther, distant three-quarters of a mile. The general depths iu tho bay are
.l ^i 15 fathoms over a mud bottom. Tho entrance is open to tho eastward,
but within tho bay are several inlets, which afford shelter for all classes
of vessels. Tlie only danger is the Carr Bank, with 1 1 aud 2 fathoms on it,
which extends a cal.lo off shore on tho N.W. side of tho entrance, one-third
the distance betwe<!n Sybille Head and Freeman Point.
This bay remains frozen for about the bome time m Castrijf^ Tiay. Its

^ w « tt > mrx '» #j i < f .}jy . i.,. i /j- W i"

-wsmm^^^srm^^

582

GULF OF TARTARY.

shores are covorod with wood fit for building puii)osos, such as tho larch,
fir, and 8touG-i)ino.*

Vessols appronehing this harbour in foggy weather sliould not shoal their
water under 40 or 35 fathoms, unless well assured of their position, and in
all eases duo allowajice must be made for currents. They ore sometimes ex-
tremely variable.

In Iladshi Bay it is liigh Mater, full and change, at 10" O", and the rise is
3 to 4 feet.

The COAST from Beachy Head trends in a northerly direction to Castries
Bay, and is steep-to ; 25 and 30 fathoms have been obtained at a cal'lo's
length off Cape ByU or Lesseps, in lat. 49" 33' N. Tho coast assur.es a
bolder aspect in proceeding northwards.

Cape Destitution, in 49" 46' N., is bold, high laud, having a bay on its
North side, wl.ich affords good shelter from S.E. to S.W., in 9 or 10 fa-
thoms. Inland it is closed by a shelving beach, on which are scattered some
Tartar huts.— (Mr. Tronson.) Cajie Bent, in 50° 0' N., declines to tho oast-
ward, and has a bay on its North side.

CASTRIES BAY was re-examined by Captain Forsyth in II.M.S. Ilornet in
1855. It is used by vessels to procure a pilot, or to discharge their cargoes,
when bound to the Amur, as those above 12 feet draught cannot enter that
river. Its entrance is 4 miles wide between Kloster-camp or Quoin Point, on
tho South, and Castries Point on tho North. Quoin Point is in lat. 51" 28'
North. Although the greater part of tho lay is open to easterly winds,
which throw in a heavy sea, yet vessels, if their draught wiU permit, will
find shelter behind the islands in it, pai-ticularly at its head on tho West
side of Observatory Island. The bay is covered with ice from the middle of
November or December to April. The isthmus which separates it from tho
principal branch of the Amur is not more than 40 miles across, and Lake
Kyzi is only 15 miles distant. At the head of the bay is the Russian settle-
ment AUxandrovsky, composed of five or six wooden houses, f

Darker Rock (marked by poles), upon which the sea occasionally breaks
heavily, but which does not show in smooth water, lies in the middle of tho
entrance, with the western part of the promontory (the East extreme of
which is Quoin Point) in line with the bluff headland beyond, bearing about
South.

• This buy wus discovered by II.M.S. Barracouta, May 1 2th, 1866. The Russian sottlo-
nient is in an inlot on the western side of thu harbour, the entrance of which is Ij mile
within the outer points. Here, at tho head of a small bay, was found the burnt remains of
tho Russian frigate Pallas, which escaped our cruisers in 1854-5. The settlement is built
oil 11 rising ground cleared of wood, and supplied with water from two artificial wells.

t The port in Castries Buy had recently been taken possession of by the Russians when
tho fleet was hero in 1855. The road from tho port to the Amur River is comparatively
good, and on it are cstabli»hed posts.

-■ i^«j'i'*wr''^*w»i"ir,M»i!ii.'riifli,is«^'w.,i.{i,i5u^i_!^»i|U!«i>(f».>'i

mch as tho larch,

Id not shoal their
r position, and in
arc somotimos ox-

0"", and fho rise is

ruction to Castries
lined at a cal>lo'8
) coast as8uv..os a

iving a bay on its
^V., in 9 or 10 fa-
are scattered some
ilines to tho cast-

1 II.M.S. Ilornet in
rgo their cargoes,
cannot enter that
or Quoin Point, on
it is in lat. 51" 28'
;o easterly winds,

will permit, will
lead on tho West
rom the middle of
arates it from the

across, and Lake
;he Russian settle-

ccasionally breaks

the middle of tho

East extreme of

md, bearing about

The Russian sottlo-
9 of which is Ij niilo

the burnt remains of
he settlement is built

artificial wolls.
jy the Russians when
iver is comparatively

NAJASSEE-JONQUIEEE BAY.

.'■)8.1

In making the bay from tho southward two small high and barren islets
will be seen near tho coast, about 16 miles southward of Quoin Point. In
entering tho bay and passing southward of Danger Eock, the reef, wliich
extends a considerable distance from tho North end of Oyster Island, must
bo guarded against, but that channel is in other respects clear.

Light. — A fixed white light, visible from seaward and in tho bay when
bearing from N.E. \ E. (round by the North) to 8.E. \ 8., is shown from a
square wooden towor, 38 feet high, painted white, with a grey lantern, on
Quoin Point, the South point of entrance to Castries Bay. It is elevated
250 foot above tho sea, and visible in clear weather at 1 8 miles.

It is high water, full and change, in Castries Bay, at 10'' 30", and tho rise
is about 6 foot.

NAJASSEE, on the West coast of Saghalin, opposite Cape Lessops, is an
open bay, frequented for its coal mines. It was visited by Lloyd's agent at
Alexandrovsky in Castries Bay, in 1867. He says: The coal mines at
Najasseo are in about lat. 49° 35' to 49° 40'. I found that vessels can lie
and load there, without particular danger, in open roadstead. Tho coast
runs N. and S. ; Cape Najassee, about 5 miles South of Najassoe lliver,
stands out only less than 1 milo ; tho loading place is to tho North of the
river. Depth of water, about one mile from shore, 13 to 16 feet, deepening
to 8 and 9 fathoms 3 to 4 miles from shore. Weather mostly calm during
summer ; winds, from April to September, mostly moderate, from N.E. to
S.S.E. ; later, the winds turn over S. to W. and cause tho swell to sot
towards Saghalin. During the spring fogs on this side of the gulf; the
Saghalin coast remains nearly always and entirely clear.

JONaUIERE BAY, on the West coast of Saghalin Island, about 1 J mile
N.E. of Cape Otsisi, is in lat. 50° 54' N., and may be recognized by three
remarkable detached pinnacle rocks, about 50 foot high, off its South point.
This bay should bo looked upon only as a fine weather anchorage. It
affords shelter from N.E. (round by the East) to South, but is exposed
to all other winds, and tho holding ground is mostly bad. A small river
finds an outlet in the bay, and boats can pass over its bar when tho tide
is in.

Coal. — A few huts of the natives will bo seen on the South part of the
above river entrance, and between these and Pinnacle Point are seams oi
good surface coal, some of which, being close to the water's edge, can bo
easily worked.

Supplies. — Large quantities of fish were taken in Jonquiere Bay by haul-
ing the seine on the beach to the northward of the huts, and good sized flat
flub wore caught with hook and line about a quarter of a mile off .shore, in
3 or 4 fathoms water. Wild fowl and white hares are numerous.

The watering-place is inconvenient. Drift wood is pleutifid.

• ti8tifaW.A«;«jg- ' At- ' gaaiB » <

.581

GULF AND EIVER AMUR.
TIDES.-Tho time of high water,* fuU and change, iu Jonquioro Bay, ih
at 10", aud the rise is about 6 feet.

GULF AND RIVER AMUR.
The GULF of AMUR, or Saghalin, is 70 milea long, North and South
and 2.5 mUes at its greatest breadth. The waters of the river Aniur, which
empty themselves into this vast basin with great rapidity, have formed
banks of sand and mud, which cover almo.t its whole surface, barely leavmg
the shallow channels by which the stream flows on one side to the Sea of
Okhotsk and on the other to the Strait of Tartary ; this renders the entrance
of this great river difficult, and at times dangerous.

Immediately North of Cape Lazaref, at the South entrance of the giilf,
the channel from the Strait of Tartary divides into Uo branches. That
which goes to the N.N.W., narrow and slightly winding, is called the South
Fairway, and keeps close to the Tartary shore. It hn. a tortuous course to
Nikolaevsk, which is 65 miles from Capo Lazaref. The channel varies from
three-quarters of a mile to 2 mUes in width ; the depths are generaUy small
but occasionally are as much as 14 and 19 fathoms. The least water is 2J
fathoms, and a flat with this depth extends for nearly 10 miles between
Capes Koisakoi and Prong6, and this may be considered the real bar of the
river, and must be crossed to enter it. Beyond this bar the water deepens,
and 11 fathoms are found abreast the town of Nikolaevsk, above which the
river is said to be navigable for 1 ,500 miles.

The N N E. branch, or Saghalin Fairway, is wider and deeper than the
other, the least depth being 18 feet at low water. It keeps along the Sag-
haHn shore, at about 5 miles distant, for nearly 60 miles, until just North of
Cape Halezof, where it almost touches the coast; and 20 miles further
North, between Capes Golovachef and Monshikof, 16 miles apart, it opens
out into the Sea of Okhotsk.

The EIVER AMUR, or Saghalin Ula, is formed of the streams Shilka
and Argun, which ■unite in lat. 53° 30' N. on the frontiers of Russia and
China The former of these consist of the Ingoda and Onon ; the latter
being the main stream which rises S.E. of Lake Baikal, in the mountain
chain -called Khing-khan Ula by the Chinese, and Yablonoi Krebit by the

The river flows East as far as Nertchinsk. Here it is said to be 600 yards
wide, and very deep; then North, then again East, when it receives the

. The work by the lateThos. W. Atkinson, Esq., F.UG.S., entitled "Travels in the
Eoglons of the Upper and Lower Amoor," London, 18G0, is, with his previous work
"Oriental and Western Siberia," 1858, a most interesting account of this acconipbshed
artist's long residence and journoys in these previously almost unknown regions.

NIKOLAEVSK.

585

iu Jonquioro Bay, is

g, North and South,
LO rivor Aniur, which
apidity, havo formed
urfaco, barely leaving
no side to the Sea of
8 renders tho entrance

entrance of tho giilf,
twf> branches. That
ng, is called the South
Id a tortuous course to
ie channel varies from
hs are generally small.
The least water is 2 J
sarly 10 miles between
red the real bar of tho
jar the water deepens,
levsk, above which the

r and deeper than tho
; keeps along the Sag-
liles, until just North of
and 20 miles further
6 miles apart, it opens

. of the streams Shilka
frontiers of Eussia and
a and Onon ; the latter
Baikal, in the mountain
Yablonoi Krebit by tho

it is said to be 600 yards
st, when it receives tho

.S., entitled "Travels in tho
is, with his previous work,
account of this accomplished
t unknown regions.

Argun, which comes from thu South near Baksanovu. Tho united streams,
under tlie name of Amur, continue to tho East and S.E., recoiviug from tho
South tho amucnts Sungari and Usuri, and reacliing its eouthern limit iu
47" 48' N., at the Mariemk Post or Eki, one of tho most important Russian
stations on the Amur. A battery has boon constructed that commands
both the entrance to the port and the rivor. It is from this post that tho
overland route to Castries Bay (page 582) starts. It would bo a most im-
portant lino for a railway. From Marionsk the river turns abruptly to tho
N.E. and East, falling into tho Gulf of Amur between Capes Prongo and
Tobakh, which are 8 miles apart, and both are fortified. Tho length of tho
Amur, including all its windings, is about 2,500 miles ; it is navigable for
largo vessels as far as Nortchinsk, 1,500 miles from its mouth, in tho sum-
mer season ; in the winter it is frozen over.

Nikolaevsk.— Tho fortress of Nikolaevsk is built on the loft bank of the
rivor, at 22 miles from tho entrance. It is sui-roimded by a few houses, and
defended by batteries and strong advanced works. Tho channels leading
from the guK to the anchorage abreast it aro frequently changing, owing to
tho great debris sent down by the strong current of the river, and with tho
constant fogs, frequent squalls, and gales, render tho approach both diificult
and dangerous.

Nicolaiefski or Nikolaevsk is a town of very modem growth. " It is,"
says Mr. Knox, who visited it in 1866 for the Telegraph Expedition, " em-
phatically a government town, three-fourths of the inhabitants being directly
or indirectly in the service of the Emperor.' It has a 'port' or naval
establishment, containing dock-yards, machine shops, foundries, and all tho
odds and ends of sheds, warehouses, and factories necessary to the formation
of a naval station. All the houses in the town are of wood, the great ma-
jority are of logs, either rough or hewn. Going back from the river the
streets begin grandly, and promise a great deal that they do not perform.
For one or two squares they are all good, the third square is full of stumps,
and when you reach tho fifth and sixth, there is little street to be found." *

There are now a large number of steamers on the Amoor. The season
when the river is open is limited to about half the year.

Supplies and assistance in the way of repairs are difficult to be obtained at
Nikolaevsk. Provisions oven cannot be had. Timber is plentiful, and tho
forests extend as far as the eye can reach, but the export of wood is strictly
forbidden.

Light.— A square wooden tower, 29 feet high, painted white, with grey
lantern, is erected on the western part of tho battery, at tho East end of
Constantino Island, in the Amur, abreast Nikolaevsk. It exhibits at 40 feet

Hiirpor's M-.gazino, Now York, Aug. 18()8.

— , .^. — -Lja j vanWitag ^ "f*- ■

„j THE COAST OF MANCIHIRIA.

.W hi... «»..r a/». wl... l.n. H^H., of the .ix«. ....... «....,.» i. ..»..

woalhor at 7 mi.o.. ^^^^^ ^,( j^^ary bUo.i.,1

was 4 foot, and tho wato ^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^ regularity in

Fron Capo Djaoro to Capo ironge ii washigh watov

i::t::t;rrt\nirrtrari::;::^.i

per hour.

THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.

Tll^ocount of th.e K«.«ian acquisitions is given by Dr. W. «. Blackio.
r.R.G.S., in the Journal of the British Association, im.

rdor, vi8i1)lo in *'^cav

it of Tartary should
irh bow, ami an an-
1 groat changes havo

I conspicuous wooJc^n
(lifforout bonds. Tho
ir eido.

it fc-r weeks togothov,
board to lighten. No

'.four hours ; tho riso
Chome Island tho riso
ol about fifty niiuutcs.
to bo no roguUirity in
ids. It was high water
ot with a southerly and

irthom entrance of the
bserved was 5 ft. Tho
auks sometimes a knots

lA.

lut little known till the
internal rebellion, and
rmous empire, the coun-
e said that its sway was
us the Manchurian terri-
the Amur and the adja-
The Russian boundary
lese regions, and is now

the China Pilot, we com-
(oundary. The coast has
i some confusionof names,
na Pilot.

giv

'un by Dr. W. Ci. Blackic,

roSIETTE HAY.

.')87

Tho first names horo given are tho8(> of tho Umxiau aiith-ritios of 1K,V,),
but it may be again statod tliat tho others aro giv(-n by previous Hurvoyors.
The French corvotto Capricicme examined Posiotto IJay and tho anchorages
at its lioad in 1852. It was still further examined by tho ItusslnTi frigate
ValluH in ia.')4, and it was horo that her survey terminated. In 18.ir) a hur-
vey was made of D'Anvillo Gulf, and tho gulfs of Ouerin and Napoleon, by
l-\ II, May, Muster of MM.^. Winvheder, ard I>. U. Wilder, Muster of

H.M.S. Nankin.

POSIETTE BAY, or D'Anville Gulf, is comprised between Shuro Point to
tho .^oiitli, and Cape (hmova or UuijoH to tho North, about 33 miles apart.
This latter cape, rising 1,800 feet above tho soa, is the end of a peninsula
extending to tho South. It is visible 30 miles off, and, coming from the
N.E., is a good land-mark for this bay, as Cape Casy is from tho South.

The land at tho bottom of the bay is low and marshy. At tho head of tho
bay aro tho anchoragos, named ralla,! Road {Capricmm Hay), Noi-oyorod
Harbour {Port Louis), and Expedition Bay {Napoleon Road).

Farugelma Island {Caseini hland), lying in tho S.W. part of Posietto
Bay, is 3 miles in circumference and 113 feet high. It forms a good mark
for entering the bay. There are two villages on its West face. A reef of
rocks extends more than half a mile from its S.W. point, and another reef
projects from its N. W. point. At half and two-thirds of a mile N.N.E. i E.
and E. by N. J N. respectively from its uorth-eastorn point lie tho Pilier and
Biv / Roch ; the latter rock hardly shows at high water.

Moule Bay is partly sheltered to the S.E. by Farugelma Island, and to
the N.E. by Bodisko Peninmla, the summit of which, named Mount Birection,
is 820 feet high. The bay is U mile deep. North and South, and 1 mile
wide at entrance, which is narrowed b: i reef of rocks, awash, stretching
nearly 2 cables off the West shore. With tho wind from S.E. to S.S.E. a
heavy swell sets in. The highest tides observed rose about 3^ foot.

Pallada Eoad, comprised between Mount Direction to tho South, and
Klaproth Point to the North, is 5 miles deep N.W. and S.E., with a mean
width of 3 miles. It affords fair anchorage within Balbi and Malte Brun
points, the inner points of the bay, in from 12 to 5 fathoms, over mud

bottom. , „ , r 1 i

Expedition Bay is a good and secure harbour, and affords a safe retreat
for vessels not wishing to ride out a south-easterly gale in Pallada Eoad.
The entrance to it is nearly half a mile wide, but it is divided into two
channels by a large bare rock named tho Mingan. The eastern of these
channels should on no account be taken. The other channel on tho West
side of the Mingan luust be entered with caution, for it is narrow, and a
shoal extends nearly half-way across from the Musoir, so that it is advisable
rather to close the Mingan. Entering the bay, take care to avoid v smaU
knoll of 3 J fathoms, nearly in the centre of the fairway.

--5.B«ejrao»«»»iae3^r^<-«»5«''''^^s^^

888

THE COAST OF MANCHURIA.

Tho obsorvatiou npot on tho Muuair Hook was found by tho Winchenter td
bo in lut. 'I'r ;J7' 22' N., long. 130" 14' 10". By tho liusBiun chart it is iu
lat. 42° 37' 50" N., long. 130" 00' 50" E.

It ia high water, full and change, at tho outranco to Expedition Bay, at
2'' 30'", and tho rise is about 2J feot.

Novogorod Harboor, or Port Louis. — Aftor passing throuj;;li tho channel
botwoou tho Musoir and Mingan rocks, Novogorod llurbour will open out
to tho eastward. Tlioro are no dangora aftor tho harbour is open. An-
chorage may bo taken anywhere in mid-channol.

A hard aandy spit runa across the upper part of tho harbour. Tho har-
bour abounds witli fish. There are several small runa of good water ; there
are alao various beds of oysters, and ono of lai-ge musaels. The hills are
covered with long graaa, and abound with pheasants, partridges, and foxes ;
and tho low ground, which is swampy, with woodcock and snipe.

AMUR BAY or Ouerin Gulf. — H.M.S. Winchester left Expedition Bay
Sept. 3rd, 18.55, and rounding Oamova Point passed between it and the
Korsakov or Fclces Islands ; from thence sho proceeded to the N.E. into Amur
Bay (Gueriu Oulf ), 40 milea in extent, in which there are aeveral good an-
chorages. The only danger soon waa a rook awash, lying about N.W. i W.
three-quarters of a mile form tho northernmost of the throe small islets West
of tho Korsakov Islands.

White Cliff Bay.— Passing between Red Cliff Island and the main, a
bay, named White Cliff, was observed, which apparently affords good shelter.
The South point, with rocks off it, should not be approached too near.

Slavianski Bay, or Port Bruce. — The Winchester passed eastward of the
two islands fronting White Clitf Bay, near the northernmost of which there
is a remarkable rock called the Ninepin, About 3 miles northward of these
islands is a conspicuous cliffy point, which forms the 8.E. point of a secure
and deep bight, named Slavianski Bay, which forma an excellent harbour,
and is well protected by the Eugenie archipelago. Fish and potatoea wero
procured from the nativea, and they appear to be amply provided with those
necessaries.

Pestchanoi or Sandtj Point. — When abreast Slavianski Bay a high table
hill will be seen to the north-eastwai-d, with a tuft of trees on its summit,
called Mount Viryinie, and another further in the same direction named
Mount Winchester, the eastern slope of which terminates in a low sandy point,
in lat. 43° 9' N., long. 131° 50' E. The anchorage, N. by E. of this point, ia
good and (^uito land-locked. ,

The Sui-Jm or Shilo River, at the head of Amur Bay, ia apparently of
some extent, aud good water oan bo procured about a mile from tho
entrance.

;ho iV incheitlcr tn
un chart it in iu

cpodition Bay, at

iii);jli tho channel
)ur will open out
ur ia opon. Au-

pbour. Tho har-
:ood water ; thoro
is. Tho hilLs arc
idgos, and foxeu ;
snipo.

; Expodition Bay
itween it and tho
i N.E. into Amur

sovoral good an-
ibout N.W. i W.

small islota Wost

and tho main, a
fords good sholtur.
id too nour.

I eastward of tho
Bt of which thoro
orthward of theao
point of a securo
ixcellent harbour,
md potatoes wero
ovided with those

Bay a high table
3es on its summit,
I direction named
a low sandy point,
E. of this point, is

•
f, is apparently of
a mile from tho

EUnENTE AUrmrELAOO, ETC

«R9

USOURI BAY or Napoleon Gulf is an oxtonsivn inlot, but notliing could
bo Hoon if tho loast indication of a good harbour. The bay is about .'10 miles
deep and about 1 broad.

The Eastern Bosphorus, botwcnn tho South end of jlfurarirf Aruninkii
Prnmtmtiitu (Albort poninsula), and tho islands forming tho Kugf'iiio Arclii-
polngo, is fi miloB long, and about half i mile broad in its nnrrowost part.
At its western ontranco is a sand spit stretching half-way across tho piissago.
When post the Bjiit there is no danger.

Golden Horn Bay, or Port May, on the northorn side of the Eastern Bos-
phorouH, is an excellent harbour.

EUGENIE ABCHIPELAGO is tho chain of islands extending in a S.W.
direction from Albert peninsula. There are somo good harbours in it, named
Novik Bmj (Port Deam Bundan), Voevoda Pay {Port Htvwari), nnd Ihyarin
Pay ( Wilder Pay J, affording shelter for sliips of the largest draught, and no
doubt good water can be procured at these.

AMERICA or Hornet Bay is formed at tho eastern extreme of Poter tho
Groat Bay, and Captain C. Forsyth, who discovered it in 1 1. M.S. JTornef,
in July 1 856, describes it as a spacious inlet, carrying a moderate dopth up
to its head, but open to southerly winds. There is snug anchorage on its
western side, between the mainland and an islet, namod Fox Island. A river
flows round tho foot of a peculiar conical hill at the head of tho bay ; it was
named Lyons Pircr, after Lord Lyons. Many villages and several herds of
cattle were seen.

The COAST between America Bay and Islet Point was surveyed by tho
Russian schooner Vontok, in 1861, but wo Imvo no description of it. From
Islet Point to St. Vladimir Bay was surveyed by 11. M. Bhip8^f/«;o» and Dave
in 1859.

Between Met Point, a fine bold rocky headland, and St. Vladimir Bay, tho
coast is remarkably clear of treacherous dangers, a fortunate circumstance
where the navigator is so frequently enveloped in dense fogs.

As a general rule, along the coast of Manchuria, every valloy which ter-
minates on the sea-beach has its stream of excellent water. Drift-wood if*
generally found on the beaches.

Siati Wuhu Pay. — The first anchorage to the north-eastward of Islet Point
is a small but well sheltered one in Siau Wuhu Bay. From the southward
a hill 2,720 feet high, the most elevated in tho immodiato neighbourhood,
is a good mark to point out its position ; it bears N.W. by N. 4 J miles from
Ilarbour Island which partly shelters the anchorage. Vessels requiring a
refit would find the Inner harbour admirably adapted for the purpose. Ap-
proaching the bay from the north-eastward. Cape Creasy, a bold rocky head-
land, the summit of which is 695 feet high, conspicuously marks tho East
side of entrance.

v3 ^ ji^^.'4.ife' a ss. --' t'^;^^- i~%w«w>^'j''a ' i ' »;^'wr.' '» «

5y(, THE COAST OF MANCriUIlIA.

An extensive plain on the North side of the outer -chor^g^" ^-
turace for a large drove of cattle '.August 1859), the property of an old Chi-
3 wholivl a n^ile or two up the river. Ho readily parted wUh some
for dollars ; they were small, but the beef excellent.

Water may be obtained at a stream which empties itself into the N.E.
corner of the outer bay.

Ta-wu-hu Bay. situated 24 miles N.E. by E. of Cape Creasy, is qmte ex-
poIdT 1 souVard and eastward, and can only be -—0^ a-
emporary anchorage for steamers. There is a village m the bay, but no
supUs could be obtained. Castle Point, N.E. by E. i E. 14 mUes o Ta-
wu ir- a remarkably line-looking bluif. its yellow cliffs nsmg almost pre-
cipitously from the beach to an elevation of 1.060 feet.

Broken Head is a fine rocky promontory 5i miles N.E. of Castle ^ou^'
and the termination of a range of hills, to the rear and northward of whc.
•s spread an extensive and well-watered plain covered wxth rank vegeta-
Uon but void of trees. Off the S.E. face of Broken Head .s a hxgh rock,
like a shark's fin. _

From 8 to 9 miles N.E. of Broken Head are a line of conspicuous white
cliffs on the sea face of a wooded range, and 2 miles farther a good-sued
open bay, with anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.

Mosquito River entrance is 2 J miles North of Broken Head. Inside the

entrance is a small basin of 3 to 5 fathoms water, quite sheltered from a

linds. The bar at entrance has 13 feet on it (1859), but probably winter

frosts alter the depths. „ j • ^ fl .f

Low Table Point, at 20 miles N.E. by E. of Broken Head, is a low flat

cape bordered with a vertical cliff, extending 2 miles to the eastward from

the base of a conspicuous round-topped mountain about i. 200 feet ^Whe

1 It is especially useful in making Olga Bay from the southward, before

Table Point is risen.

OLGA BAY or Point Michael Seymour, in lat. 43^ 46' N.. was dis-
covered by H.M.S. Hornet, July 1856. It is open to the southwarcl There
sllter for a few vessels from aU winds in its northora part, in 10 fathom.
The n row passage, named Bro.n Channel, at its N.E. part, leads into au
Ler harboir or estuary, which is well adapted for careening purpose.
Brown Channel has 3 to 4 fathoms water in it, deepomng to 6 and 7
fathoms towards the careening harbour. The Eu«sian settlement is here.

Gilbert River empties itself into the N.W. angle of the port. The mouth
is broad and shallow, but soon deepens when over the bar.

Supvlies-Tke seine will always procure an. abundance of capital fish,
such as salmon and trout,. A few fowls may also be procured, and a small
supply of fresh boof. The watering stream ruu.s through a valley on the

"wm^.fsm^'Mmm^m^i^^^^"

■ ■!7l1i?»TTtrW'?'flrSTrr^.ffiTr^

ST. VLADIMIR BAY.

5i)l

achorage afibrda paa-
•operty of an old du-
ly parted with some

3 itself into the N.E.

e Creasy, is quite ex-
be recommended as a
e in tho bay, but no
J E. 14 miles of Ta-
jliffs rising almost pre-

N.E. of Castle Point,
nd northward of which
red with rank vegeta-
i Head is a high rock,

3 of conspicuous white
IS farther a good-sized

jken Head. Inside the
[uite sheltered from all
), but probably winter

oken Head, is a low flat
;s to the eastward from
lOut 1,200 feet above tho
m the southward, before

it. 43° 46' N., was dis-
) the southward. There
horn part, in 10 fathoms.
^.E. part, leads into an

for careening purposew.

deepening to 6 and 7
siau settlement is here.
Df the port. The mouth
tho bar.

bundance of capital fish,
]0 procured, and a small
through a valley on the

eastern side of the port, near tho ordinary anchorage. Wood may be ob-
tained in any quantity.

In Olga Bay it is high water, full and change, at V' 30", and tho rise
is about 3 feet.

Tlie position of Olga Bay may be easily known when approaching it from
the northward by Brydone Island, on tho eastern side of entrance, and the
only one on this part of the coast. Coming from the southward, the entrance
will be recognized by tho opening in the land, Brydone Island is not dis-
tinguishable at any great distance, as, being only 325 feet high, it looks like
a cliff of the high hill, 1,3*1 feet high, behind it.

ST. VLADIMIR BAY, in lat. 43 ' o4' N., was discovered by the Russian
frigate America, in 1857. Itsentrunco, \\ milos wide, aiid open to the East,
is formed between North Head or Capo Ihdlunztl;, 347 foet higli, to the North,
and South Head or Cape Watauski, 712 feet high, to the South, both of which,
when approaching the bay from the East or N.E., appear hko islands. From
thence the bay extends .^'estward, and forms three arms, one to the North,
one to the South, and th.: other, the smallest, to the West. Tho depths are
about 15 to 5 fathoms in tlie North and South arms.

The South arm is well sheltered, but, as a slight swell is frequently expe-
rienced there, it can scarcely be recom.mended as a fit place for careening,
especially with Olga Bay in such close proximity, where there is a Russian
settlement and every facihty for repairs. To the South it communicates with
a stream with a lake of 16 to 10 feet water, which with httle trouble might
bo formed into a graving dock.

There is no fixed popxilation in this bay. A few bullocks were seen, but
their owners would not part with them for anything but sycee silver, re-
fusing dollars.

The tides are irregular in St. Vladimir Bay. It is high water, full and
change, at l", and the range is about 2 feet.

The COAST from St. Vladimir Bay trends in a N.E. by N. flirection to
Barracouta Harbour, in 49° 2' N., then N. by E. to Castries Bay, and is froo
from apparent danger. Its outline was but imperfectly kaown until 1855,
when H.M. ships Syhille and Barracouta sailed along it, and detormiuod tho
following points and anchorages.

Shelter Bay, in 44° 28' N., affords shelter from N.E. winds. Good fresh
water can be obtained in a river a cable wide, with a bar at its mouth,
within which there is a depth of 9 feet. It affords a supply of fish.*

Sybille Bay, in 44° 44' N., affords shelter from S.S.E. ^vin(]s ; itp entrance
ia remarkable from having on either side some prominent pinnacled rocks.

« This coast is described in Mr. Tronson's Voyage of the Ju/rmconla, 1M.')9, p 326, &c.

lUMUBf 1 .9i!^b ri-.. imill»Hg>tW™»«tWlf

,^c,2 THE COAST OF MANCHURH

' \ ^ ■ 1 .„1 Thn hav is closed by a broad vnlloy, through which
high and xsolatod. '^^'^IZ^rL which omptios itself into tho bay.

'lirZ'Z^.^Zl:^^ «^«"- ^- N.E and oast.^
rique nay, lu f-,4i,oms with tho point boanng S.E.

winds. Tho best anchorago is m 5 lalhoms, wun lu i

■ ^ro<iAi'Tsr hns rocks extending a cable from it.

'°l2f of ^Xy, ...ich coLm^c a. Cape Di«ppomt,„o.t, . do-

scribed previously, pages 580—584.

•■Viwiafcvui-aw

' ■g.tAvl ' J'- ' ' * '* " ' ' "

lloy, through which
, itself into the hay.
n N.E. and easterly
) point bearing S.E.

,. Bullochs and fowls

Cape Dimppointment,

•isappointment, is de-

( 01)3 )

CHAPTER XT.

THE JAPANESE AECHirELAGO.

The celebrated and long mysterious trav.>ller, Marco Polo, was the first
to announce to the western world the oxistenct of the rich and povi\srful
island of Xipangu, now known to be Japan. In 16^2 a Portuguoao, Mendo*
I'into, was cast by a storm on its shores, and a Pr.rtuguose 8ottlo)i»«ut from
Malacca was soon afterwards made on Kiusiu. In J une, 155*iJ, some citizens
of Eotterdam fitted out a small fleet of five ships to trade in the Indian Ar-
chipelago, and injure, as much as possible, the common and power of Spain.
Among several Englishmen in this fleet, wore William Adams, of (.hllingham,
near Eochester, and Timothy Shotter, who had accompanied the famous
Cavendish in his circumnavigation. The venture was pre-eminently unfor-
tunate. Only ono ship, and that tlio smallest, the Joyom Message, commanded
by Siobold do Weert, returned to Holland. Two of the others were de-
stroyed, and the fourth, in which were these two Englishmen, reached Japan
a mere wreck. They were taken prisoners ; and, after some confinement,
Adams was taken into the confidence of the emperor ; the rest departed.
Tie was raised to great honours ; became of first importance in the political
and commercial affairs of the empire ; but did not succeed to the extent of
his intentions, having gained privileges only for the Dutch, who have stu-
diously avoided mention of his part in thier establishment. Some extensive
privihiges were also granted, at his instigation, to the English East India
Company, to estabUah a factory at Firando.*

As is well known, the only port allowed to be open to foreigners, and this
permission ww. limited to the Dutch and Chinese, was the Port of Nagasaki,
er rather for the Dutch, the Island of Dezima, lying before it. But the

* The first English who visited it werii with t'apt. Savis, who camo to tho relief of Ailams
iiom England, in 1611, aniving at Iniando .luuo "Jth, 1013.
Norik Vac ilk.

2 <4

■•►«aa»)sswimirm!«Siw«»'"

-^--^e«a*«»s.l5SR?s?5*»^w»«a«^*^'^-'^**^^

'~~-~"««iid

594 ■ THE JAPANESE ABCHTPELAGO.

Japanese maintained a rigid exelusiveneas, and but little was Icnown to
Eurore about the country. Without enumeratinR the older authors^ ho
principal work on Japan was the collection from the notices of the Dutch
presidents, by Dr. Ph. Fr. van Siebold, who visited the country in the period
between 1823-30, a magnificent work, worthy of any nation.

The events of later years have marvellously altered the relations between
Japan and western civilization. The various attempts at obtaining some
admission into Japanese afTairs, made prior to 1853, cannot here be enun-
ciated. But in that year, July 8th, Cmmodore Perry, TT.S.N., appeared off
the entrance to Yedo Bay, with two large steam frigates and two sloops of
war. no ostensibly sought at first only to abolish the barbarous Japanese
laws, which consigned oliipwrecked seamen to death, and their vessels to
destruction. The steady resistance to any intercourse, overawed, however,
by the presence of this formidable force, gradually gave way. and some con-
cessions were granted before the departure of the fleet, which left with a
promise, or menace, from Commodore Berry, that he intended to return fur
a more definite answer with a "larger fleet" in the following year. Accord-
ingly, on xubr-a.-'-v 1 2th, 1854, a squadron of nine war vessels appeared in
the Bay of Yedo,' ar.d after skiful negotiation a treaty of friendship was
concluded between the Tycoon and the United States, and permission was
granted to locate a consul at Simoda, an insignificant place at the South
extreme of the Idsu Peninsula, on the West side of Yedo Bay.

The second stage of this international negotiation was reached by ^Ir.
Harris, the U.S. diplom.;t, who, by unremitting zeal, contrived to enter Yedo
at the end of 1857, not to leave it till April, 1858, with the treaty of com-
merce framed. This great, ctep was followed by similar concessions being
granted to the principal European powers; and that with great Britain was
ratified at Yedo, July Uth, 18.09. After all these apparent victories, it was
discovered that these treaties, were illegal, having been made with the Tycoon
of the period, whereas it should have been ratified by the Mikado, but this
was remedied by the appearance of the allied fleet from China and the sub-
sequent full recog-nition of the rights of the external world to trade at various
ports. Of the subsequent troubles nothing can be said here. The works of
Sir Eutherford Alcock, Captain Sherard Osbom, R.N., &c., &c., will supply

all that can be required.

Climate,— The following observations upon this pubject, connected witli
Japan, are made by Van Siebold:-" In speaking of ice, frost, and snow,
within 32° of the equator, we should consider the geographic position of tbo
Japanese Islands, and cite an obsevation which has been more than once
made, and at last confirmed by Alex, de Humboldt. The eastern part ot
Europe, and the immense continent of Asia, are vastly more cold, under the
same latitude, than western Europe, mr.king allowance for the greater or less
elevation above the sea level. The climate of islands being much milder

■ ">«" ■» I . ' . !-g" '

~^^W^W^

BMmWH

GO.

t little was Icnown to
the older authors, tlio
3 notices of the Dutch
le country in tho period
nation.

the relations betweon
ipts at obtaining some
, cannot here be emm-
•y, TT.S.N., appeared ofT
rates and two sloops of
;he barbarous Japanoso
h, and their vessels to
se, overawed, however,
ave way, and some con-
fleet, which left with a
le intended to return fur
following year. Accord-
war vessels appeared in
treaty of friendship was
;es, and permission was
;ant place at the South
Yedo Bay.

on was reached by !Mr.
, contrived to enter Yedo
with the treaty of com-
imilar concessions being
it with great Britain was
.pparent victories, it was
len made with the Tycoon
by the Mikado, but this
rem China and the sub-
I world to trade at various
said here. The works of
,N., &c., &c., will supply

I pubject, connected with
of ice, frost, and snow,
'eographic position of tho
las been more than ouei,'
Idt. The eastern part ot
astly more cold, under the
mce for the greater or less
.ands being much milder

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

695

than that of continents, it can scarcely bo comprehended that the temperature
should be lower in Japan than those European countries under the same
latitude. But the cause of this contradiction is found in tho low temperature
of Asia, which, surrounding the Japanese and Kurile Islands on the West
and North, has a very decided influence on their climate. From the [u-oximity
of the continent, and the winds blowing off that coast during a portion of the
year, tho cold arises which prevails in Japan, particularly in the North and
N.W. Thus in lat. 32° N. the thermometer descends on the coast to 30° and
29° Fahr. It freezes to several lines in thickness, and snow falls that re-
mains on the ground for several days. In lat. 36° the lakes, as those of
Suwa on the Sinauo, are covered with a bed of ice, which, between 38^ and
40°, becomes thick enough for the river to be crossed on foot. In the island
of Tsusima (lat. 34° 12' N., long. 126' 55' E.) rice will not grow; near
Matsmae, in the Island of Yedo, wheat returns but a very poor harvest ; and
on Cape Soja ' ^t. W 21' N., long. 140^ 29' E.) the wild Ainos, a vigorous
race, are obUg^^a to retire into caverns, to preserve themselves from the in-
tolerable rigour of winter. On the other hand, the S.E. and eastern sides,
protected from the freezing winds of Asia by high chains of mountains,
which traverse these great Islands of Kiusiu, Sikok, and Nipon, in a direc
tion parallel to the continent, have a more fertile and more temperate climate.
In those parts of the country between lat. 31° and 34', the palm, the banana,
myrtle, and other plants of the torrid zone, are found. In some parts the
sugar-cane is successfully cultivated, and they gather two rice harvests each
year. The environs of Sondai, a city in lat. 38° 16' N., long. 138° 36' E.,
near Niegata, produce this grain in such abundunce, that, notwithstandmg
their northern position, they are in reality, as they are called, the granaries
of Yedo, tho most populous city of tho country. But it is more particularly
in the rigorous season, which lasts from the commencement of January to
tho end ol February, that this difference between the western and eastern
shores of Japan becomes most remarkable. At Dezima (Nagasaki), for ox-
ample, in lat. 32' 45' N., long. 127° 31' E., the thermometer marks 45' Fahr. ;
while at Yedo, in lat. 36" 41', long. 137' 22' E., it rises to 56° ; so that the
position of the capital, more easterly by 9= 51' than the factory, raises its
temperature higher by 11°, although it is only 3° nearer the pole. Thus m
the two months of winter in which these observations were made, the coasts
facing the Asiatic continent were exposed for thirty-seven days consecutively
to the freezing winds from N.W. and North. This circumstance explains,
besides, why the white mountain fSirojama), which is on the western coast
of Nipon, in lat. 36", is covered with perpetual snow at 8,200 feo^ above the
sea : and why Fmi-jama, at the eastern extremity of the island , wi.. its s^mit
at 1J,450 feet, remains without snow for months together.

"During the hot weather in July and August, when the winds blow from
South and a.E., this disproportion in the temperature disappears, and the

jgg THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

l,.;.l,f of the thormomotor for this Boason is 79° at Dozimn, and 76^^ at
v'? Onthe Soura'd S.E. .oasts, then refreshed by those ^vinds, .t
I :; eed >^ nevertheless in the South and B.W. parts of Kiusiu, and
S;;:rXVshTe:!d fro. the bree.es, it often rises to 00^ and ..,

Nip!n * and Yezo, and numerous .nailer islands. Nipon, the loj-gest and

1' important of these, and that .hieh gives its name to the wholo empu-o,

i IrXn 700 miles inlongth N.E. and S.W., and its breadth vanes ft^n

T 1 .n in« South of Nipon, and separated from ,t by a nanw chnu-

^N^ rrthe i:nd!f^ikok, about 130 miles in length. It is separated
of Nipon, IS '^'^^l ^^^^ ^^^ ^ith Kiusiu and the -vesteni part

"^^rZ^^:^^^:^-^^- named Seto Uehi No.h of N^p".

1 Tlnrated from it by the Strait of Tsugar, is the lar,;e island of

;to rco"nd colony of Japan. Its for. is that of an irregular

*Tt Hakodadi, the climate in winter is variable. In the winter of 1859-
60 ifgreates depression of the thermometer was 12. The character ot
hVwLTr season is uneven, and acts prejudicially on the health in conse-
quence of the great variability of the atmosphere, thaws and sharp frosts

alternating. Torth-westerly winds blow for four months, and snow fell in
alternat ng. ^.^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ,,

to^mLi'wXcontinuedandhea^

standing many degrees below zero. . „ . ,, ,,

Fogs are very prevalent on the coasts of Japan, especially m the northern
pa!ts' and thunderstorms are frequent. In June and July they occur fre-
queuily in th. Korea Strait ; further to the North they envelope the coasts of
Manchuria till the middle of July.

Earthquakes-Tlie whole region of the Japanese Islands is volcanic and
many of the eruptions are fraught with extreme danger to ships. At Yedo,
one occurred in August, 1783, exceeding in its horrors and wide spread deso-
lation that of Lisbon. Another occurred at ledo on the 0th Nov. 185..
Itich is said to have caused the destruction of 100.000 dweUings and 54
temples, and the deach of 30,000 persons. _

lu 1854 the town of Simoda was reduced to ruins, and the Russian frigate

• Moon i« applied in Japan to the wholo empm.. In the two word, of the Chinese cha-

\.- V L„o<io it M Pm, it means the place ov rising of the sun. The Japanoso

'TT^':Zi2tr^^^or..,oitmPu,,, th,. Dutch Bp.lling it /.. Pu., thoi.

rlnon^^ with ^r ,. The English, giving the hur«her sound to J, call it Japan ; so

'jeddo should be pronu-nced Yedo for the samp reason, and is hereafter spelt so.

.00.

at Dozimn, and 7G' at
Led by those winds, it
JV. parts of Kiiisiu, and
a rises to 90° and 98°,

islands, Kinsiii, Sikol':,
Nipon, the largest and
me to the whole empire,
I its breiidtli varies from
)ni it by a nan-ow chnu-
i-d of the South extromo
length. It is separated
iu and the western part
Qchi. Nor-h of Nipon,
is the lavj^e island of
1 is that of an irregular

In the winter of 1859—
1 12". The character of
on the health, in couse-
thaws and sharp frosts
aonths, and snow fell in
Ucock says the winter is
of snow, the thermometer

especially in the northern
md July, they occur fre-
;hey envelope the coasts of

e Islands is volcanic, and
mger to ships. At Yedo,
rors and wide spread deso-
on the lOth Nov. 1855,
100,000 dwellings and 64

ns, and the Russian frigate

5 two wordi of the Chinese cha-
sing of tho Bun. The Japanoso
)utrh spelling it Jch Pun, thoir
tier sound tu j, call it Japan; su
ia hereafter spelt so.

ISLAND OF KIUSIU.

697

Diana nearly wrecked in the harbour, being whirled many times round her
anchors, at one time aground, at another in many fathoms depth. She was
then greatly injured, and was subsequently lost in an Inexplicable submarine
tornado, whilst in tow of a multitude of Japanese boats which deserted her
suddenly at some, to them, well known warning.

Simabara, in Kiusiu, is also a locality of terrible earthquakes, one of which
is said to have altered the whole feature and coast line of the neighbouring

^'lirJapaiiese Current, or Euro Siwo. as it is called by the Japane.o in
one point of its course, is an immense stream which rushes past the soutlu^n
coasts of tho Japanese Archipelago towards the N.E., and is exactly ana lo-
geus to the Gidf Stream in the North Atlantic. It has been observed by
every voyager in these regions ; and, like the Atlantic Stream, may be tmced
to a great distance to tho eastward, and evidences of this drift_ have been
frequently found on the American coast, as in the remains of junks,_or ot
these vessels with their crews being drUted on to the American territories, as
has been previously related. _

But the Pacific current cUffers from the Atlantic Stream m not being con-
fined in a narrow channel at its outset, and in the strongest part of its
com-se. Hence its velocity and direction are not so constant, and some great
variations in the current have been experienced, and those, too, wi thou any
apparent cause. Thus there can bo no dependanco placed on its rate or
direction, and inshore it is certainly controUed or altered by tidal action. In
a later part of tliis work this remarkable stream wiU be noticed more at
length, in tho section specially devoted to currents.

ISLAND OF KIUSIU.
The word ICiusiu, according to Kecmpfer, signifies "country of nine," iu
reference to its <Uvision into nine larger provinces. It is 66 leagues m
length from N. to S., and 40 leagues in breadth. It is separated from Nipo n
by the Simonoseki channel, which at its western entrance is only half a mile
in mdth. The strait which separates it from Sikok also is contracted
to 10 miles broad at one point. The Strait of Van Diemen foinns its
southern boundary, and the Strait of Corea, or Kora- s on the western

" The Japanese Archipelago has never been properly surveyed. Some por-
tions have been minutely examined, especiaUy the viciniUes o the trea y por s
whereEuropeancommercehashithertobeenallowed. I- "f ^^'^^ " ^^^^;":
veys made by the officers of the American squadron in 1 853-4, and the British
fleet in 1863, there are various portions derived from the surveys of Com-
mander J. Ward, R.N., in the Rifleman ■ of Commander Brookor R N., in
the^yn-.; and especially of Commander 0. Bullock, R.N. , in the UrronL

■^s^^si^smmissr*^

098 ISLAND OF KIUSTU.

All these and others hayo been connected together by a most remarkable
map. During the political negotiations this perfect representation of the
empire was delivered to our representatives, and it was found to be a regular
trigonometrical survey of 6 miles to an inch, and so accurate that, wlien
tested by the surveyors, it was found that very great reliance could be placed
on it. Such a geographical work deserves especial mention.*

The ensuing directions are those given in the China Pilot; and, though
belonging to various authors, have been collected, arranged, and amplitied
by Commander C. Bullock, R.N. These directions commence with the
southern extremity of the Archipelago, which is, although differently arranged
to the procecUng portion of this work, has been followed here, as it is thouglit
more convenient than proceeding from tho northward.

VAN DIEMEN STRAIT separates Kiusiu from a group of volcanic
islands, which, extending in a S.S.W. direction, connect this extremity of
Japan with the volcanic ranges of the Thilippine Islands. They will bo
described in a future Chapter. These islands, on the South side of this
fctrait, are high, and apparently of safe approach, as is also the South end
of Kiusiu on its North side. On the North side is Kagosima Gulf, of which
Cape Chichakoff forms the S.E. point of entrance, and a remarkable moun-
tain, named Horner Peak by Krusenstern, tho N.W. point. This mountain,
with a similar mountain on Iwoga sima on tho southern side of the strait,
both of great height, foi-m two conspicuous land-marks when approaching
the strait from the westward. The whole of the above gulf, excepting
to the North, is surrounded by high mountains, covered with verdure,
which stretch away along the coast to the north-eastward of Cape Chi-
chakoff.

CAFE CHICHAKOFF {Satano misali) the south-western extremity of the
Japan Archipelago, is the western and somewhat low extremity of vury high
land, which has no remarkable feature. It is about 500 feet high, and has
three remarkable rocks lying close off it, one of which, bearing West from
the extreme of the cape, is of a sugar-loaf shape and perforated at its base.
These, with a small island lying South about 2 cables, and another East
about a quarter of a mile from the pitch of the cape, will enable the seaman

• There is ft sad story in connexion with this map. It is related in Commodore Perry's
"Narrative," page 88. The story is thus told hy a modem writer on Japan. "Von
Siebold had been with Colonel Strurler, the Dezima chief, to Yodo ; the Japanese astrono-
mer, Takahasi Lakusaimon, had, in vioktion of the law, furnished him with a copy of a re-
cently made map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy ha\'ing become, from
some cause offended with the astronomer, denounced him to tho authorities. An investi-
gation followed, which lasted a year. Von Siebold was banished from Japan ; and Taka-
hasi and the draughtsman who accused him, both committed suicide." This occurred prior
to the commenc«ment of the American Expedition in 1853.

^mm

a most remarkable
ipresentation of the
lund to bo a regular
iccurate that, wlien
ince could be placed
ion.*

rilot; and, though
iged, and amplilied
Eonimence with the
differently arranged
loro, as it is thought

I group of volcanic
ct this extremity of
mds. They will ho
I South side of this
s also the South end
osima Gulf, of Avliich
a remarkable moun-
at. This mountain,
n side of the strait,
3 when approaching
30ve gulf, excepting
vered with verdure,
;ward of Cape Chi-

tern extremity of the
:tremity of very high
feet high, and has
, bearing West fi.-om
jrforatod at its base.
(S, and another East
ill enable the seaman

id in Commodore Perry's
writer on Japan. "Von
lo ; the Japanese astrono-
him with a copy of a re-
)py ha\'ing become, from
1 authorities. An investi-
l from Japan ; and Taka-
lide.' ' This occurred prior

KAOOSTMA.

509

at all tiniiOs to recognise this headland with certainty. Houndiiigs, of 8
fathoms, were obtained by H.M.S. liwhuck, in 1859, about 2 J miles off the
lupc, the perfornt(>d rock bearing N. \ £.

There is anchorage with easterly winds on the West side of the cape,
with its extreme bearing S.8.W., and porhaps a more sheltered position
is in the N.E. corner of the first bay to the northward of the cape.

KAOOSIMA GULF is an arm of the sea 35 miles in length and 5 to 10 in
breadth, on the western side of Cape Chichagoff, which runs in a North
direction into the southern part of Kiuslu. At '>j miles within its entrance
the large island of Sukura nearly fills the head of the gulf, with channels on
both sides leading into an inner gulf or spacious harbour, 6 miles by 9, and
quite landlocked. The western channel was surveyed by the Masters of the
fleet under the command of Vice-Admirnl Kuper, in August 1862. The ex-
treme depth of the water in the gulf renders anchorage very difficult ; the
fleet having only found indifferent anchorage close to the beach on the western
shore, near the Seven Eocks 4 or 5 miles South of Kagosima.

KAOOSIMA. — Facing the Island of Sakura on the West, the Khisiu
shore projects, narrowing the western channel into the inner gulf to 7 cables
at its northern part, its length being 4 miles. On this projecting shore
stands the city of Kagosima, the foi-tress of the Daimio, rrin(,o of Satsimia.*
Batteiy Point, to the South of the city, is low, and has a spit extending
from and around it to 2 cables, and very steep at its edge ; a shoal also fills
the bay North of this point. Off the centre of Kagosima in front of tlie
Daimio's castle is an inner harbour or large camber, gained by entrances
between five forts of masonry, which have deep water close up to them.
Two small rivers disembogue, one on the North side of the city with long
spits off its points of entrance.

The Parker Shoal, lying in the southern part of the western channel,
has a large fort erected on it (1869). It forms a good mark, being 25
feet high. The shoal is nearly circular, and about 4 cables in extent,
and on its 8.W. side is a flat of 3 to 5 fathoms where temporary an-
chorage may be obtained.

The islands Oko and Karasuka lie close off the S.W. and W. part of Sa-
kura ; the latter has small spits off its North and South points ; otherwise
both are steep-to.

Naku or Yama Kawa.— This small harbour, formed on the West side of
entrance of Kagosima GuK, is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its North
part opens East to the sea by a funnel shaped passage, a quarter of a mile
in length, but only half a cable wide at its inner part. There arc 4 to 4i
fathoms over the lip of the crater, and a shelf off the southern shore at

The fortress was bombarded on August I6th, 18G3.

. <I WWili'MU. ' »iHW)Jj«iAli>l-l ' ).M^ ' " ' ■ " '

800

ISLAND OF KHJ8III.

ontrnnco off thn villnpjc of Yiirmi kiiwii. In tin; isouthoni ptivi of tho hnrliour
tlioro i.-; nu bottom witli 100 I'ullioins.*

The South Coast of Kiusiu trciulH to N.E. by E. for .'50 miles to tho S. W.
point of Tiismnii liay, open to tho 8.E., and 12 milos wide. From Toyi-
miaaki, its oastcirn point, tho coiiHt of KiuHiii runs for 100 miloH to N.N.E.
with but fow inHoxiouH to th(t fiitriimc of tho Iioiinf,'o Cliiiniu'l. TIiIh const
wiiH partially hooti and laid down by IJroiiyhton and KniHonHtuni, but tho
namoH they applied to tho varioiiH pointH on it, btnii}? not rocoj^nist'd on tho
more rpcont JapauoHo chart, cannot lio I'nunioratcd lioro. .\.t Honio futurn
day, whon tho hydro}j;raphy is moro comploto, they may bo iduntifio.I.

The BOUNGO CHANNEL, which soparatoH tho i.slandH Kiusiu and Sikok,
is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and its shores, accordiufj; to tho Jai/anese cluirt,
arc singuhxrly broken into projecting peninsulas. It was passed by Kicmpfer
and Thunberg, and they speak of tho tliousaiuls of islands with which it is
oncumberod. Tho allied squadron, under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, entered
it in August and September, 18(H, and found it free from danger, and il:'>
Japanese charts correct.

Okino Sima, forming the eastern point of tho South ontrnnco to this
channel, is large, of moderate elevation, and may bo soon in clear weatlicr
at 35 miles. To the northward of it, also towards Ilinm sima and towaid^
tho main land to tho eastward, tho space appeared to bo rocky foul
ground.

Euryalus Bock, named after 11. M.S. EunjaJm, is a small rocky islet,
50 feet high, lying in tho middle of tho Boungo Channel, 20 miles N.W.
of Okino sima. It is eun-oundod by rocky shoals, some above water, to
tho distance of half a mile. It occupies a most excellent position for a
lighthouse. •

Takanaba, the island lying nearly in tho middle of the northern entrance
of tho channel, has two small rocks above water, at 2 cables N.W. of it.
There appeared to bo a good passage on either side of tho island.

Off the south-western part of Sikok, at the entrance of this channel,
several reefs and a large island are omitted from the charts, which cannot
be specified in a short notice. Caution is therefore requisite.

Nomi, in lat. 33° 23' N., long. 133° 19' E., is a secure and spacious har-
bour affording good anchorage in 11 to 7 fathoms mud. Its entrance is to
the westward of an island, Tosima. Eeefs extend 1 mile off this headland,

* In 18G3 the British barque Nelly reported having discoTered a, sunken rock off the
S.E. coast of Kiusiu on the western side of entrance to the Bounga Channul. Its position
is given as liit. 31° 48' N., long. 131° 42' E. Tho bottom had a white appearance, with
soundings of 8 and o fathoms close to tho rock. But Commander Bullock, It.N., soundtd
aloD" this coast in 18G6, and found from 18 to 39 fathoms near tho reported position,

dMi

THE SETO UCIIl ' >U INLAND SKA.

tun

[Klft of tl|(» lllM'llDUr

) iiiilos to tho S.W.
\vi(li>. From Toyi-
:) iiiil.m to N.N.E.
iiiniii'l. Tliin coiisl
usonstorti, but (liii

rocognisod on tlm
I. At Honio fiitiii'd
It) idoiitifio'i.

Kiiisiu rmd Silcok,
ho Jai<iuu)S() cjiiirt,
mssod by KicmpfVr
ds witli whieli it is

L. Kupor, ontovcd
tn dniig;<^r, and il:'i

th ontrnnco to {\\U

m in clear weatlicr

i siina and towards

to bo rocky I'oul

I. fimnll rocky islot,
nel, 2f. miles N.AV.
Qo above water, to
lleut position lor a

e northern entrance

cables N.W. of it.

e island.

ce of this channel,

arts, which cannot

site.
and spacious har-
Ita entrance is to

e off this headland,

tt sunken rock off the
Channol. Its position

whitu appunrance, with
Bullock, Iv.N., soutideJ

reported position,

and nine tlin wooded iMaiid, 'M', l.yin-r South i'nnn it; and a Ibit i.-obitod
reef, A feet above water, Hch S. by W. 2 inilcH from Tuft Island, uud «.S.E.
\ E. 2.\ miles from tho West point of Tosinm.

Susaki is also stated to bo a line liarbour, but it was not examined.

Ura-No-TJtsi lies <J milns East of Nomi, and is liarred a( tosm tlio ontranco
by a sand-bank. Some shelter may bo obtained in S.W. winds, in 4 to «

fatlumiH.

Kotsi Inlet, in Int. 3.r ;}0' N., Ion-?, in.r .15' E., has a narrow and dillicult
ontranco. VoshoIh of 1.') feet drani,'lit may enter at springs. Tho outer an-
chorage in 7 fathoms sand cannot bo rocommend(;d.

THE SETO llCni Oli INLAND SEA.

Tho great Inland Sea of Japan, to wliidi tiif name of its custern part has
boon erroneously given, is caUed by tho Japanese Hoto IJchi. Tt is enclosed
hetweon tho S.W. coast of Nijton, which entirely bounds it on tlie North ami
East; and tho Islands of Kiuwiu and Siladc, wbidi bound it on the West
and South. It extends wnuewluit in an East and West direction, in Icngtli
2-10 miles, with a breadth varying from 10 to ;iO nules. It lias six divisions
called nadas or seas, taking their names gcmerally from the provinces, the
<'oasts of which tliey wasli ; tlms, the western part of the sea, as far as the
IJoungo Cluinnel, is callod the Suwo nada ; and proet^eding East, we have in
succession, lyo nada, Misama nada, Bingo nada, Harhna nada, and lastly
Isumi nada, sometimes called the Gulf of Oii saka.

Tho Seto Uchi was first navigated by II.M.S. Cruher, in 18.')!), and it was
passed throughout bytho allied fleet under Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, in 1861.
It contains upwards of 300 islands and rocks, with but fciw knov u dangers,
«nd has a sea-board of nearly 700 miles, on whicli are situate numerous
largo towns and several of tho provincial capitals. It abounds witii safe and
convenient anchorages. It (■ommunicates with tho raciiic by tho Kii Clian-
nel on the East, and by tho Boungo Channel, between Kiusiu and Sikok, on
tho South ; and with tho Sea of Japan by tho Strait of Simonoseki on tlio
West. There is a great maritime trade along its popidous shores, as well as
tho through traffic to Oci saka, tho chief seat of comnien'^ of tho empire, and
the seaport of its capital, Miako.

The Seto Udii can bo navigated with saf(?ty at aU seasons of the year,
and even under favourable circumstances during the night, the raoro particu-
larly now tliat a correct chart of it has been publislied.

The WESTERN ENTRANCE to the Soto Uchi is at its outer part ;5.5
miles across, being formed by the West coast of Nipon running South for
25 miles from Kado sima, and the North coast of Kiusiu taking an easterly
direction for tho same distance, from Wilson island. At tlio angle where

' :^i4ii!ai»i>iiSj:aKg^ fi= «^-^ >'' » ' "

TTIE SETO UCIII OR INLAND SEA.

fj02

th.,so..uast« moot within 3 mil... is th. Ur,. isWl lUku si.na. H..U.1. ..f

^•ln,.h in tho fairway nn.l .'ntran..- to tlio Strait of Snn.m..H..ki.

rt„n»., li mllo l..nB. -tr.*!.™ f".- *" ^-E. r...»t .f Kok„, nearly ,u ,.,.-

"■ a';!:; m/,':.t'i: f. ...k. «o. e. , n. 3, ,„,„.. .„,» «. nohi. roi„,

.,r Kta i,« wUUthe,.«t»rWBUroal,ot Kiu.iu (VJOO f.'.'.), W™* «■
t, W I W 31 n.il.-. Wil«... .1.-1. k»Pt ..p.." "t «■" N"'l' I"-' «' <-"'"'

hima l.Mulrt cl.'ar of It. _. v w l.« N i N Iflmili'S

Siro Sima-ThoHo two iHla,..!., ono nulo nr-trt, lio W. Ly N. J N. 1 m, «
irl 1>. outor point of Wilnon Island. Tho no^th-oaKtern one, 400 fo
I withawo dedsunuuit of round-d outlino, has a round rook olf its
t Itrth point, and a shoal spit running 4 eald.s olf .. So.^. P^-
Tlfo South island is indented, its eastern sl.rp peak be.ng ^9 feo^h .h;
there is shoal water ofl its South point ; its North pmnt is steep-to^ A rocky
patch of some extent, with less than 2 fathoms on at, Ues 1 mdo S. by L. of
Cabove Bharp peak. Another rocky patch of 2 fathoms water extenchng
Half a mile Ealt and West, lies 8. by E. 3 miles from the same peak, and
W by N. 3 N. 22 miles from Iwaya Point. a « w nf

Iwaya Point, on Kiusiu. with projecting ledges, is 4 miles S^S.W. of
SouThXo sim^, at the termination of a sandy bay 5 miles wide. A wooded
hill I 100 feet high, conspicuous from the ofhng. with a round gap in its
.ummit, rises 5 miles S.W. by W. i W. of Iwaya Jomt.

Masui Sima. or Notch Utnd, lies N.E. by N. 6 mi es North of S ro
Blma and 3 miles from the shore of Nipon, off Cape Morotzu, the hills
ovT wdiich are 1,000 feet high. The channel between is free from known

'TJnorthern part of this island is a triple topped bluff 900 feet high ;
on the West coast, about the middle of it, there is a very shaiT poak.

U Si,„a, or Flat Mand, bearing S. by E., 6 miles from Masui Sima, is a
fla^^isfad covered with trees, and 1 mile in length. Eeefs dry or sunken,
!k end 1 mile off its North point, and a spit runs 8.E. by S^ U miles from
r South point ; there are also others extending 8 cables Ea^ of .s Sou^
point, and which are marked by a small square rock. To the S.W. of Ai
Blma is a large detached reef with a sand patch on It.

KoLen Wand, 3 miles S.E. by E of Ai sima, has on its table
land aTge and conspicuous clump of trees, 300 feet above the sea
.llh i^vlible alter Landing Wilson Island, when it will bear about

^HIKTJ SIMA, lying at the entrance of Simonoseki Strait, is 3 miles in
exfen^NorLand South, and has a smooth green hill 380 feet high on its

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT.3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

l^|28 |2.5

|30 l*^" IIHlBE
^ 1^ ill

^ fcS 12.0

12.2

1.4

1.8

1.6

vV'T

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 Wi^ST MAIN STREET

1*VE".:T««>.Y. 14580

(71J) 872-4503

•<i^'

•1>^

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

I i

THE STRAIT OF SIMONOSEKI.

603

NorthPoint. Tt8 western point, Cape Sizikufx, is a low rocky promontory,
with an island ofif it, wliich from its similar formation appears connected. Its
S W. point, Entrance Head, is a wooded blutr 380 feet high.

U^\A.—K fixed white light is shown about two-thirds up the hill on the
North point of entrance to Fuku-ura.

There is a small anchorage on the S.E. side of Masui sima. There is
anchorage also along the Nipon shore. East of Ai sima and Rokuren, in 7
and 9 fathoms, but the coast should not be approached within half a milo.
as it is fringed with reefs ; norAward of this the reefs extend a mile off sliore.
If however, there bo sufBcient daylight to get round Rokuren, it is recom-
mended to do so instead of anchoring outside for the night. There is also
anchorage in Hamo Bay on the S.W. side of Iliku.

It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of Simonoseki Strait at
10 p m , and the rise and fall is scarcely 4 feet.

If bound to Simonoseki from the westward, pass North of Wilson Island,
and steer E. by N. I N. for the North point of North Siro sima, which pass
at half a mile ; then steer East, taking care not to bring the North point of
North Siro sima to the northward of West, till the centre of Ai eima bears
South, so as to clear the reefs off the North point of Ai sima. A S.E. course
will then lead up to Rokuren, which can be rounded at 3 cables, when steer
S. by W. to pass the West point of Hiku sima.
The southern channel is not recommended.

The STRAIT of SIMONOSEKI, commencing at Entrance Head, the S.W.
point of Hiku sima, is 7 miles in length, with a navigable channel varying
from 3 to 7 cables in breadth. The town of Simonoseki stands on the Nipon
shore 4 miles within the entrance.

Ilihi Flat, lying W.N.W. 1 mile of Entrance Head, is a bank of sand stone
rock, 8 cables long and 3 broad, with 13 feet water on it.

Kohura Ledge is a flat of sand and rock, with shoal patches on it, front-
ing the low shore of Kiusiu South of Hiku sima, and where stands the
town of Kokura on a small stream called Ogawa. The flat extends from 1
to 2 miles off shore. Manaita Each, lying nearly 2 cables South of Entrance
Head uncover towards low water. They were marked by a beacon. Mrmi
Rock is a quarter of a mile S.W. of Kibune Point, the S.E. point of Hiku
Hma, and li cable off shore. It uncovers before half ebb, and was very
dangerous, but is marked by a beacon.

Yodsibi Bock \ie9 E.N.E. 4i cables of Kibune Point, and is best avoided
by hu-ging the Hiku sima shore. It only shows at low tide, but is marked
by a small stone post with a rivet-shaped head. This post is only about 2
feet above high water, and cannot be seen at night.

SIMONOSEKI, or Shimonosaki, is an important to- n from its position at
the entrance of the Inland Sea. It is formed of a single principal street run-
ning for nearly 2 miles at the base of some low steep hills along the shore of

< I

i J

1
1

! ;

r>oi

THE SETO r^ni OR INIAND SEA.

Nipou. Tts most conspicuous Ijiiilding is tlie custom-houso, rocognizod by its
tall white gables. A smti/l li(jht is oxhibitod on the slioro at tlio end of a
stono balustrade at tho eastern end of the town.*

Supplies of provisions and coal wore obtained by the squadron witli
difTiculty, as it was not a treaty jiort. Tho coal, which is much used hero
in the forgirg of nails, was of tho worst possible description, and gave 75
per cent, of ash and earthy matter. Water of excellent quality was brought
off in buckets in large boats.

Mozi Saki. — The strait is narrowed to 3 cables between this point, which
is the extreme of a promontory at tho North end of Kiusiu, and tho eastern
end of the town of Siraonoseki. Whitshed Boy and tho village of Mozi aro
on the S.W. side of this promontory. Tho heavy vessels of tho allied fleet
anchored in it after tho capture of Simonoseki, in September, 1861.

The Fisherman Rock, a dangerous reef, lies northward of tho Tano Bank.
It is 120 yards long, N. by W. and S. by E., has only 4 feet on its southern
end, 12 feet on its nortliern end, and 5 fathoms between at low water springs.
There are G fathoms close to its South, East, and West sides. From the
rock, Mozi saki bears S.W. by W. i W. ; Isaki, E.S.E. ; Kusi saki, N.E.

1 N. ; and the South extreme of AEanziu Island, N E. by E. i E. The
custom-house at Simonoseki in line with Mosi saki, W. by S. ^ S. clears it to
tlio southward.

Tano Bank lies 1 to \h miles E. ^ N. from Mosi saki, off Tano-iira vil-
lage. Anchorage in 5 fathoms may be found on the outer part of this bank.
North of it is the Konabuse Rock, with two heads.

Isaki is tho eastern promontory of the North point of Kiusiu, and South
point of East entrance o" the strait. It may bo passed at 2 cables.

Light. — H.M.S. Perseus observed in December, 1865, that a light, a wood
fire in an open shed, had been jilaced on Isaki Point.

Kusi Saki, the North point of entrance of the strait, has reefs extending

2 cables off it. There is a large military station here, named Chofu, or
Ilagi Chiofu, tho fortress of the powerful l)uiiL>io, the Prince of Daisou or
Nagato.

Kanziu and Manziu are two islands E. by N. of Chofu Point. Kanziu is
low and flat, with some large rocks and a rock awash ofi' its South end ; but
Manziu is 190 feet high.

Midway between Kusi saki and Isaki, is a large Middle Ground, on which
the least depth found was 2J fathoms; but there may bo less water.

• In the course of the various troubles which arose out of tho jealousy of tho native
|)iinces, it was determined to attack Sinionoselji, which was done by a squadron of H vessels,
under Admiral A, L, Kiipor, on September (i, 18G4.

ignized by its
the end of a

juadron with
ich used horo
and gavo 75
was brought

poiut, which
d the eastern
:e of Mozi aro
10 alliod fleet
861.

Tano Bank.

1 its southern
(vatcr springs.
3. From tho
si said, N.E.
. i E. Tho
S. clears it to

Tano-iira vil-
of this bank.

iu, and South

jles.

light, a wood

ofs extending

ed Chofu, or

of Daisou or

t. Kanziu is
luth end ; but

und, on which
)e less water.

y of tho native
irou ol'H vosblIs,

THE SUWO NADA.

fi05

To facilitate tho navigation of tho I^Iiddle Channel, two iron buoys with cages
were placed in 18fi9.

1. A huoy with black and «7///^' rings in 9 fathoms on tlie Kanabu.se or
Fisherman's Eocks ; from it Mozi Hill bears S.W., Isaki Point E.S.E.,
Kusi-saki N.E. by N.

2. A red l,uoy in ;3 fathoms on tho Middle Ground ; from ic Kusi-saki
boars N.N.W. ^ W., Isaki Point 8.E. by S. } S., and Kanabuse IJuoy
W. by 8.

The deepest wator through the channel will be found 1 i cable southward
of the buoys.

If intending to anchor off tho town of Simonosoki, tako a position well
below tho custom-house (not conspicuous), in 6 to 10 fathoms, out of tho
tides, which are very rapid through the narrows, with strong eddies along
the shore during the western stream.

It is high wator, full and change, at Simonosoki, at 8'' 30'" ; springs rise
8 feet, neaps 6 feet. The western s>.;roam makes at '2J hours before high
water, tho eastern stream 2^ hours after high wator, so that the western
stream continues 5 hours, and tho eastern 7 hours.

Off Mozi saki the velocity at springs is 7 to 8 knots, at neaps 3 to 4 knots ;
the current is at its full strength for 3 hours of each tide. There are heavy
overfalls in tho eastern part of the strait at springs.

Directions. — Entering tho strait : after rounding the West point of Iliku
sima, steor S.E. until the loading mark to clear Hiku Flat is brought on ;
when steer S.S.E. i E. easterly. This mark will also clear the Manaita
Hocks off Entrance Tlead. When the summit of Entrance Head bears
N.N.E. steer E.S.E. till Mozi Hill, 583 feet, opens of Kibuue Point, when
haul up, taking care still to open it till Hino yama is also open, so as to clear
t!io Narusi Eock. Pass Kibune Point at a cable, and steer N.N.E. ^ E. for
Hino yama, which will lead up to Simonoseki.

After passing Simonoseki, borrow O' r towards Mozi saki, after rounding
which steer E. by N. J N. with tho leading mark on to clear the Tano Bank.
When the point next East of Tano-iira bears S.E. by S., steer E. by S., al-
tering to S.E. i E. as Isaki is approached, which pass at 2 or 3 cables, into
the Seto Uchi.

The SUWO NASA, the largest and westernmost division of tho Inland
Sea, is bounded on the North by the promontory of Suwo, the western
extreme of Nipon, oViC. limited to the East by the Island Ya sima. Its
length is nearly 60 miles, and it opens into the Pacific by tho Boungo
Channel.

Itcami sima, in tho eastern part of this sea, has a cone-shaped island east-
ward of it; it may bo passed close on the S,W. Uwa sima, or Ifckyosidi, is
small, with a cluster of rocks on the S.W.

Tho ensuing directions for it aro somewhat abbreviated from those drawn

(•,06 THE SETO UCHI OR INLAND SEA.

up by Captain Charles Bullock, R.N. They cm only be used in connection
with the chart (Admiralty chart, No. 2875), which in composed from the Ja-
panese Governmont map before referred to, with subsequent corrections by
European oflicers. The intricate nature of the navigation cannot be verbally

described.

Steering through the Suwo nada : From Isaki, the western entrance pomt,
steer S.E. h E. 10 miles, or until the promontory of Moto yama bears North.
At E by S i S. course may then be kept for .-6 miles, which will lead two
miles North of Hime sima, a high island off the N.E. point of Kiusiu. Con-
tinuing 22 miles farther on the same course wiU lead 2 miles South of Ya
sima, which may be rounded at a mile.

In passing through the Inland Sea, as it is generally necessary to anchor
at nieht, so it is important that as many convenient anchorages as possible
shouhi bo indicated along the route. In the Suwo nada are the following—
In 5 to 8 fathoms for 10 miles cDuth-eastward of the strait ; or about the
southern edge of the Motoyama Shoals. In 5i fathoms, muddy bottom, at
Mitatidi, in about lat. 34^ N., long. 131° 33' E., with the small conspicuous
island, Taba sima (Saba sima ?), bearing S.W. i W. It has a groat trade in
salt. On the N.W. side of the Island of Kasato, which is approached from
the S.W. passing S.E. of three islets; and also at the port of KaminoseU,
opposite the town, which stands on the North of the East point of an island
of the same name, a large place of trade. There is anchorage, also, in the
smaU bay on the South side of Eime sima, in 5 to 9 fathoms, sheltered from

all northerly winds.

lYO NADA.— The next arm of the inland sea lies between the islands
against Nipon to the N.W. and the clearer western coast of Sikok, and is
about 45 mUes in extent. From a mile South of Ya sima steer E. by N. i
N. 14 miles, and pass half a mile South of Minasi; then shape a north-
easterly course, passing on either side of Yuri, and through the channel

North of Kosii.

Kumimsi sima, which is a mile South of Minasi, may be passed at a
quarter of a mile on the South. Yuri (or Varo sima) makes like two islands
from the S.W., joined by a sandy beach ; it may be passed on the South or
on the North at a third of a mile. Kosii is also called Gmigo sima ; and No-
kona, Nogowino sima.

MISIMA NADA and BINGO NADA, two divisions of the Inland Sea,
are filled with islands, and separated by a narrow strait on the Sikok shore.
From Kosii, passing South of Nokona Island, and West of Simonanba Point,
a N.E. course will lead up to Kadzitori Point and Cape lyo, off both which
are rocks. North of Cape lyo is an archipelago 30 miles in extent.

Thence to the eastward two routes are indicated on the chart, namely, a
ncrthern route through the archipelago, by a channel circuitous, narrow, and
intricate, amongst high islands and with strong currents, and by which

MISIMA NADA AND BINOO NADA

(Ut?

n connection
from the Ja-
orrections by
t be verbally

itranco point,
bears North,
will lead two
Iviusiu. Con-
South of Ya

ary to anchor
IS as possible
e following —
or about the
ly bottom, at
[1 conspicuous
groat trade in
iroached from
of Kaminoseki,
t of an island
e, also, in the
jheltered from

len the islands
Sikok, and is
jer E. by N. h
ihape a north-
h the channel

le passed at a
ke two islands
1 the South or
sima ; and No-

le Inland Sea,
le Sikok shore,
uonanba Point,
off both which
xtent.

lart, namely, a
s, narrow, and
and by which

Japanese pilots havo invariably conducted foroiRn voss^-ls ; a-.d a xoidhrh,
one, much to bo preferred, as shorter (by G miles), safer, ami more open,
passing South of and avoiding the arehipelngo. A third passage, also
through the islands, but only indicated on tho chart by ..mnd.ngs, is tho
shortest, but not good.

Tho Ai sima are two remarkablo rocks, tho eastern of wliich is white, tl.n
western brown ; thoy have been passed at li mile. The Black and White
rock is much larger than Ai sima.

Light -There is a light always at night on the South point of Okamura,
3i miles N.W. of Capo lyo, and U mile West of the ontranc, of the
northern passage. Like all Japanese lights, it is a wood lire burnt m au

open shed.

Northern Route-Mr. Blackney, E.N., of H.M.S. Mfccon, 1861. g.ves
the following: Pass between Kotaka and Kio sima, steering a northerly
course along the East shore of Osakiuye Island, and close to the westward of
the small island of Matsu ; round Okuno to the northward, and keep along
the mainland as far as Mihara. From Mihara pass South of Yoko mto the
Bingo nada, across which steer E. by S.

Approaching the western entrance to this route, it is not easy for a
stranger to immediately discover its narrow outlet, the islands rising from
2 000 to 4 000 feet. Keeping the southern shore of the islands aboard, the
t^wn of Mitarai is passed, and the small island of Kotaka (200 feet) may be
recoKuised by tho remarkably white rocks which fringe its base. Koi sima.
is 400 feet high, and well cultivated. Steer N.N.E., keeping the Ea.t shore
of Osakiuye aboard, passing marble quarries, but give its S.E. point a berth.
Pass to the West of a conical rock off Osaki and several small islands
further to the North. On leaving Tatanomi Bay it is necessary to steer 1
mile S.E. to clear some shoal water on its eastern side. A vessel wiU then
be in the fairway.

Eounding the point of the main, keep its shores somewhat on a N. by E.
course, altering it to East off a bay, on which is situate tae large town ot
Mihara, which has a light on the mole, and passing between its East pomt
of entrance and the beacon on a small bushy island to the South. This
beacon (as are the other beacons in this channel) is built on the outer rock
of a reef, so that it always appears above water. After passing this beacon,
the channel between In mna and Muko sima wiU open out, with I^rnkju-
kmq a remarkable conical islet, 150 foet high, and 8 miles distant, appear-
in/ midway between two barren looking points on either hand, through
this channel, about 4 cables broad, now proceed S.E. J E. for 6 miles, pass-
ing close to the beacon off the South point of Muko sima. There is another
beacon off the S.W. point of Yoko.

The Wusima Channel passes between the islands of Daizo, Ilakubo, and

vm ' SETO UCni OR INLAND SEA.

0-Bima, having Wu-eima between them. The plan on the chart is the boHt
guide. The iidoB at springs are so rapid that it is then impossible.

Southern Route.— The superiority of this route is evident, the tortuous
passages between islands being only 1 miles in length, whilst that to tho
northward runs 24 miles amongst islands, and that of Wu-sima 8 miles
through them.

Cape lyo, tho N.W. extreme of Sikok, is a long promontory of undu-
lating hills ; a grassy inland lialf a mile N.W. of it, a.id with a low roof
which never imcovors, 2 cables outside tho island. KadzUori Point is a blulf
200 feet high, with rocks half a cable off. Ko aima has a double peak 400
feet high on its North end. It is well cultivated. Eocks stretch off its
South point towards tho .shore. Ma sima is 250 feet high ; there are rocks
awash close off its N.W. end.

O-nimn has many hills GOO to 700 feet in height. Off its South point are
two islets ; the outer one is 20 feet high, with a tree on it. Iliki sima group
is 100 feet high ; the eastern island has two remarkable trees on its summit.
Kudsi is a double Hat-topped island, 200 feet high. Moto Island is a doiiblo
hill 300 feet high, with a gradual slope to the East. Takaikama, Oki, and
Yeno, form a conspicuous group. Takaikama has a single peak 800 ft. high ;
Oki, three peaks of 540 feet elevation, with a small islet South of it ; Yeno,
one peak, 200 feet high.

Directions. — After rounding Cape lyo, pass East of Ko sima and West of
Ma fiima, on a southerly course ; then keep away to the eastward, and giving
tho islets off O-sima a good berth, haul up W.N.W., passing West 1 mile of
Kudsi. This course leads through tho Bingo Nada. Until better examined,
when passing between islands in those seas, especially those bearing East
and West of each other, great attention should be paid to the lead.

Tomo id a town on tho North shore of the Bingo nada, on the mainland.
It is famous for its sakv distilleries. There is a pier harbour hero for small
vessels, and anchorage iu 5 fathoms.

A line of islands trends south-eastward across the eastern side of the
Bingo nada from Tomo towards a projecting peninsula, Akenose Misaki, on
tho East side, 12 miles distant. The best route through them is to tho
southward, between the following islands. To the northward are : Udsi,
which has two peaks S80 feet high. Jllutsu sima is 900 feet high, and culti-
vated to its summit. Nezumi sima, a small low, brown island, having shoal
water extending a considerable distance to the East, and a cluster of rocks
near it. Takami is 830 feet high and vorj' bold, and may be passed on tho
South at a quarter of a mile. The Conqueror Bank, so named from H.M.S.
Conqueror, one of the allied fleet, grounding on it in 1834, extends from
near Takami Island to within a quarter of a mile of Nezu sima. It has some
knolls of 9 and 12 feet on it.
Tho route passes to the northward of Awa sima, tho North poin*: of which

' "*<tW i "

IIAIMMA NADA.

CUU

inrt is tlie bowt

siblo.

, the tortuous

Ist that to tho

.-sima 8 milos

tory of undu-
rith a low reof
Point is a bhill'
ublo peak 400
stretch ofF its
liero are rocks

3uth point are
Jihi sima group
on its summit.
iind is a doiiblo
ima, Oki, and
k 800 ft. high ;
th of it ; Yeuo,

a and West of
ard, and giving
West 1 mile of
)tter examined,
) bearing East
load.

I the mainland,
hero for small

srn side of the
nose Misaki, on
them is to the
ard are : Udsi,
igh, and culti-
i, having shoal
Liluster of rocks
I passed on tho
i from H.M.S.
, extends from
la. It has some

poiu*^ of which

is Btoep-to, with 10 fathoms 2 cabltw oil'. Oil' its East point in a dotachc^d
reof. Sizi sima is a boautiluUy cultiviitod island ; a long shoal lies piiniUol
to, and 7 cables from its North sliuro.

There is good anchorage in tho northorn bay of Awa sima ; also South of
Awa sima and Sizi siiua in G to 8 fathoms ; and anywhoro to tho N.E. of the
latter for 7 or 8 miles, as fur as Sai sima, in ;'> to 7 fatlionis, gravel. About
60 tons of coal of inferior quality was found stiickod East of tho villai^'o on
the South side of Awa sima. ll.M.SS. Ihir and Levcn coaled here.

Tlio St. I'incent Channel, safe, easy, and dot-p, passes to the nortliward of
the Conqueror Bank between Nezumi sima and Suyanagi to the Nortli of it.
It cannot bo well described without the chart.

Sai sima and Hci sima are low, with shallow water between them. Take
care not to mistake them for the two dark tree islets off the town of Mura-
Icame on the South shore. North of Sai sima is a cluster of three small
rucky isle., which may bo passed on either side.

Odutsi is a fine cone, 900 feet high, and a very prominent object from all
directions.

Oki sima, sima, and Jnaki sima, are hiffh ; at half a mile North of tho
latter is a dangerous reef. There are shoals between these islands. Groat
caution should be used in approaching the line bay of Takamatau from uuy

direction.

HABIMA NADA, the next division of the Inland Sea, lies ofi" tho N.E.
end of Sikok, and is about 25 miles in diameter. It is separated from tlio
easternmost area by Awadsi Island, and has some dangerous shoals in its

northern part.

Sozu Sima, or Shodo sima, a large island in the eastern part of the Ila-
rima nada, is 10 miles long, 8 miles broad, and '2,500 ft. high. On its South
side the high promontory of Yosino, terminating in a blulf 980 feet liigli,
stretches to the southward, forming a conspicuous land-mark throughout
the Harima nadn, and the narrow sea to the westward. Anchorage pro-
bably may be found to the N.W. of Yosino bluff. Sakate Bay, to tho N.E.
of Yosino, affords anchorage in 16 fathoms, but it is not by any means a
good anchorage, the water being so deep. N.W. of Otsu no saki, the S.E.
point of Sozu, in the bay between it and Fukube Island, there is deep-water
anchorage in 13 to 20 fathoms.

Hanamtira Bay, on the Sikok shore, S.S.W. 5 miles from Yosino bluff, is
not a good anchorage in the neighbourhood, and a fine harbour. A largo
town stands at its head. On the promontory which forms its West side,
the high rugged Peak of Botensan, a sacred mountain, is a very conspicuous

object.

Great Shoal.— A.ii. extensive triangular spit of covered roiks, having tlio
East side of Sozu sima for a base, is said to stretch in an E.N.E. direction fur
25 miles, to within 10 miles of Akasi Strait, and 5 miles of the North end
Mrth Pacific. - "■

010

SETO UCni OK INLAND SEA.

of Awndji. A good mnrk for passing between tho banks is the Iliogo
ranpo just open of Yesaki, tho N.W. point of Awasdi.

Skenmi Bank in 7 miles S.W. by W. from tho Nortli point of Awadji sinin.
Not less than C fathoms has been found on it, but probably there is less
water.

But there is a 1 -fathom patch, called Shika-no-se, at 8 miles W. J N. from
tho North point of Awadji.

AWADJI or Awadfii, tho largest island of tho Inland Sea, is ."0 miles in
length North and South, and 14 miles across at its southern or broadest
part, which is between tho projecting promontories of Nipon and Sikok, at
tho eastern entrance of this soa from the Kii Channel, which it divides into
two passages, the strait of Isumi on tho East, and tho Naruto Passage on tho
West. Awadji is mountainous, but tho hills taper away towards Yo naki, its
North cape, which is low and sandy, with batteries on it.

Akasi Strait, between the North point of Awadji and tho coast of Nipon,
is only 2 miles wide, and commanded by forts on both shores. It is froo of
danger, and its shores are stoep-to, but a 20-feot shoal is said to exist about
a mile South of Mieco. Tho tides hero aro very rapid.

Lights. — There is a light on tho North point of Awadji ; and another 2^
miles N.N.W. of it, on the Nipon shore. West of Akasi.

The Hasedasinose Hank extends 2 miles off its western shore, 3 miles North
of Morotsu, with 3 fathoms on its edge.

Sailing from the Bingo nada into tho Harima nada, keep strictly to the
track marked on the chart, which is a mid-channel course, as tho sea is
greatly narrowed here, with many shoals out of tho fairway. After round-
ing the high bluff of Yosino, steer E. J N. until Awadji sima is closed
within 5 miles, when keep along its shore for Ye saki, its North point, into
Akasi Strait, from which an E. J N. course leads to Hiogo and Oiisaka.

Anchorage is found in Yei Bay, 12 miles S.W. of Ye saki, in 9 fathoms,
one-third of a mile from the shore, and all along towards that point in 7 to
12 fathoms.

Caution. — Should the tide bo found setting to the northward after leaving
Yosino Bluff, keep its outer summit open of Otzuno saki, the S.E. point of
Sozu sima, till well across towards Awadji, to prevent being set on the
Great Shoal. To avoid the Skenosi Bank, do not approach Ye saki on a
N.E. by E. i E. bearing.

H.M.S. Ringdove took a northerly passage through the Harima nada pass-
ing West of Tomo sima, from the North side of which a spit extends 2 miles,
which she rounded in 8 fathoms ; she jiassed North of Sozu sima and South
of Matsu sima, an E. h N. course loading into Akasi Strait.

A sand-spit also extends from the North shore of the Isumi nada, 8
miles West of Hiogo, where a large fishing village is situated. The sound-

.iiiii«|i!|>l4VBMi.ll«

THK ISUMI NADV -OOSAKA.

is tho Iliogo

f Awiulji sinin.
y tliore is less

1 W. J N. from

is .?0 miles in
rn or broadest
and Sikok, at
it divides into
Passage on tho
rds Ye gaki, its

loast of Nipon,
I. It is froo of
; to exist about

ud another 2^

3 miles North

strictly to the
as tho sea is
After round-
sima is closed
irth point, into
d Oiisaka.
, in 9 fathoms,
,t point in 7 to

i after leaving
s S.E. point of
ing set on the
1 Ye saki on a

ima nada pass-
xteuds 2 miles,
ima and South

Isumi nada, 8
[. The sound-

ings grndtially docroaso on approathing it, ntid u nlight attention to tho load,
or keeping IJ milo oil shore, is suflicient to load clear.

The ISUMI NADA, or Gulf of Oosaka, at the N.E. extromo of tho In-
land Soa, anil .'5.0 miles in extent N.E. and .S.W., is bounded to tho South
by a promontory of Nipcm, and to tho West by the largo mountainous iwland
of Awadji. Its shores uro in general high and thickly wooded ; in somo
places, however, they are low and sandy. It is singular in having neither
an island nor a danger. On tho East shore of Awadji tho water is deeii,
with no eonvoniont anchornges except in small bays close in. Tlio coast of
Nipon, on the contrary, ad'orda good anchorage along its whole extent, roofd
only extpiiiliug oil' it 1 or 2 cables.

OOSAKA.— Tho city of Ousaka, the principal commercial place in Japan,
was opened as a treaty port to foreign commerce Jan. 1st, 1868. It is said
to contain a million of inhabitants, and, unlike most Japanese cities, its
houses are of two stories. It stands on the left bank of the main stream of
the Yodo-ngawa, 3 miles from the sea. This river, which takes its rise in
the groat inland lake, Biwa, after flowing on a south-westerly course for 30
miles, enters the Gulf of OiJsaka by -jveral channels. At tho h)wer or
north-western corner of the city the river divides into two branches — tho
Ajikawa, as tho Yodo is here called, continuing directly towards tho sea ;
the other branch, the Kiskingawa, takes a southerly course, and discharges
itself 3 miles lower down tho gulf. Thes' two br. nchos are navigable by
junks of moderate size, but tho heavier classes are compelled to discharge
their cargoes in the roadstead.

Oosaka is intersected by several canals, which are mostly very shallow, and
only navigable by the flat boats of the country. The castle of the Tycoon is
on the N.E. of tho city, overlooking the river.

The foreign concession named Ebisu jima or Kawa nguchi occupies the
angle formed by the Aji and Kishu branches ; its position is indicated by
lofty trees. Tho right of building is confined to this site, but the right of
residence extends over the contiguous suburb westward. It is 2J miles
above Temposan, tho fort at the river's mouth, and 2 miles below tho castle.

The Eiver Aji is shallow, but may be navigated by ships' boats as far as
the castle ; it has a bar, which at unusually low tides would be nearly dry ;
at exceptionally high tides, 7 feet might be carried over. Tho channel is
marked by large piles, the two outer having triangular vanes to distinguish
them; the shallowest part is just outside these outer beacons, and the best
passage over is at one-third the distance from the North beacon, so as to
avoid a shoal extending south-west from the other. When inside, the deep
water is close along the groynes on the South side, which always show.
There is generally 3 feet more water in tho lower part of the river than on
the bar.

Directions from within the i?rt/-.— Keep the S. bank of the river, which will

2 K 2

,,,., sivro rem <.)\i inland sr,.\.

, r,. f,.„urH. to tlu'Tvr..nn'>('asllo^alK,VPtl.o first l.ri.l^e

„,., -vr . «o..n o ';- ^ ; ''';\^, .„ ,,„ ,„„.„ ,i,,eti..n, lor n>.ovo this tho
:2r ;r a^i^:-— . ^-P-ea ...a^ow.... ana ..allow

-t:;t;;rz"":rz:t ...oratic.o.a.i,.o. on ti.
'•':':;;f ^,:i::J:t::rTen,po«an. .hi., .t^n.^ on ti. sou.h ,..,.

Llght.-lho lar^o '"'\ J it is a l.ijrh tnrf..l enrtlnvork, H.arr-.l

....nimands thn entrance of the r.ve, , .t i n^r,

Z . vrX .<■ .W ..r.d (»» a™ .l,e ri.,. b„.), Wt i. p.„..^.«
■ IZ only, n,nd l«in„ t..™.! a.«.«.l" from . » „w.«t,r 1,™. 11..

saw Ei7» t;! eal .he .,, be.ween ..o -hcrt mo... e«.nd™, fto.
";!rba..aHa.; ith...oba. and ha. 2 « a. ea.»„c.. A ,„»< .»

"SS'3K::"r.r:xrar...*we..oroo.a.a^

Th! "^8^ -etUomon. ha. h.e„ chosea at .h, head of .h, mr..,.rn hay .t
T!'°'7T.',n Thi. bay i. .om™..at .n,al..r and .hoaler .ban Hiogo

'";7;:;v::;"™:::rba,, .« d„,.. a. Kobe r„,a, ,.,.^0 ...e.. or

,00 Ma, if liBhleaed .o 7 or 8 feet draught, can be .akea in for repa,,.
" at ' i,ab.r, Ciefly cedar (Su-agi), i. ab™daa., and .o.tabh, tor .h.p-

buS U"«". T"''' *»• ■''" '"* """ °'""'"°' "* " "" '

flint of HJoffo is indifferent.

AvL/ J-If entering Hiogo at night from the We«t, a course n.a.y h
s^eVr d for Hiogo Point, .hich, though extremely difficult to see ,f .t be al
LT i nevertheless bold; otherwise, pass it at a moderate distance and
it the shiplg lights are seen bearing N.N.AV. or N.W. steer for them,
: ;C: rje Lr No.th ; in thi.. or rainy weather having run t e
distance with care, haul in for the shore, as convenient, and anchor m 8 to 5

LSU^ri STKAir

r,\.]

IP first liritljjM
IhIiu brnneli),
iluivo tlii« ll>'
I and 8li allow

liiidon on tlio

So\itli imvt,
work, Hcarrcil
>\\\ff vory low.
rhtliouso, from

^moly rcpulnr,
g-groiind 18 HO
n Pnfety. Tin'
ut it constltHtPK
ator line. The

10.

9 tlio bar of tlio
lall star fort is
. This bar haw
Lliau that of tho

e month of tho

extending from

ince. A liffht is

Weet of OoBaka.
northern bay of
aler than Iliogo
S.W. winds, it ia

, whore vessels of
n for repair,
mitable for ship-
it Kobe is good ;

a course may be
to see if it be all
•ate distance, and
V. steer for them,
T, having run tho
id anchor in 8 to 6

fathoms. It muHt bo borne in mind that thn tido run^ along the Hhon- ii.mrly
2 knots at si.rings, and its diioctiou has Jint boon ascortuiuud ; u.>ar Aka>.i
8tniit it is oven stronger.

Tho coast, as far as Troo Toiiit, 7 miles eastward ol Kob... is salo of ap-
proach, the shore boing stoop into -J fathoms, except tho bay directly KaHl .,['
lv..bo, wliero thoro is a suud-buuk of loss than 2 fathoms o.vtouding half a
mile oii' shore.

Tu>o rucks, which show at low water, lio in tho fairway botwoon Akasi
Strait and Tliogo, a miles E. l N. of tho North point of Awu.lji ; thoro aro
also two sm.kon rockn on tho same bearing, at l.i milo from tho same pomf.
over which are depths of 20 or 26 foot ; they have been accuratuly laid down
„n a late survey (1867) by Japanese Naval Otlicors. Tho North point of
Awadji, kept West until tho end hill of tho lliogo raugo (bordering on tho
sua) bears N.E., leads well clear of both.

Tides. -It is high water, full and change, at ni..go, at 7'. If.'". Springs
rise 3 feet 8 inches; neaps, 4 feet 3 inches; l.^ r ^mg^^, 2 feet 6 inclie...
The range of any day seldom oxcoods o feet at sprij-j.^, or I foot inches at

neaps.

At Oosaka Concession tho establishment is - 17"'. Spring rise 30 inches,
uc'iDs (1. Tho Hood stream does not roach tho Oonce-^nion.

ISUMI STRAIT, between tho S.E. point of Awadji and Nipon, is divided
into three channels by tho islands Toumug-al and Diyi. Tonumj-ai, iho
eastern island, is wooded, with tho exception of iu West hill, cleared .mpa-
rcntly for military purposes. There is a fort close to tho North of tim
^,outh-wostorn point across a small ravine, and facing the West , />'//<• is
wooded, but lower. Tho West or main channel is 2 miles wide, but con-
tracted by a sand-bank, which e.xtendshalf a mile otf the largo fort of Vara,
and by reefs stretching 3 cables off the S.W. part of Tomang-ai. The centre
passage is only 1 cable wide, and full of rocks. Tho eastern channel, called
Ihimzetti, is a quarter of a mile wide, and said to bo clear and safe, between
the reefs, which extend 1^ cable oIF both shore and island.

Yura is a town in a curiously sheltered harbour on tho S.E. side of
Awadji, on the AVest side of Isumi Strait. A low island, U mile in length,
el sand and shingle, and covered with scrub, with a blutf hill on its North
point, and a large granite fort on its South, lies like a breakwater fronting a
bay, and forms the harbour, which has narrow entrances North and Soutli.
A Uttle North of the fort, where the island is stony, it covers at high water,
but a boat can scarcely pass over it. A vessel drawing- 16 feet could enter
by the North channel at high-water springs, and lio secure m smooth water

lor repair.

Anchorage may also be obtained in 2 to 5 fathoms outside tho island on
the sand-bank otf it, with the -uter extreme of the bluli' N.W., or of the

vMVBsi

TgaiJi.*afcJJS'l!|i;.,;^;4'iji-':5;*>k^^ ''-'■

f>liMl

gj^ SETO IICHI OR INLAND SEA.

fort S.S.W., hut it is ve^ steep on the edge, and tbe holding-ground is pro-
haUy not good^ ^^^^^. ^^^^.^^ ^^ ^j^„ gouth side of

Kata 18 a town on tue easieru omc •„ c +„ p fnthnms

extond about 3 cables off the shore. _

entrance from «!;^j;^;.^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,, ,, ^^es further, or up to Awadji.
T^^r; ; :\::trcC:e7 mto tl. Seto Uchl is b. i™ Stra^
iut t^L "s a more direct route, by taking which (if not bound to Oosaka
:mZ a saving of 35 miles is effected, viz., the Naruto Passage. West of

"^ K AUOTO PASSAGE -The Naruto (literally, gate of the sea, which
NARUTO f^SSAU*-. by Commander Charles Bullock, m

a Ss not without cause that this dangerous character has been attnbuted
"it rlks have foundered in its turbulent waves or been dashed to
L on L rocks by the impetuosity of the current, whilst the famihes of
^rtWo:t: luded U the benefit of the ^^^^ ^^b^
vernment to the sufferers in ordinary cases of shipwreck. This channe
"g between A-o«m saki, the projecting S.W. P-^-^^^, «^/^'^;^: J,'„
that of Oonae .ima, caUed Mang osaku is only 6^ cables wide from point to
ott and L further narrowed to rather less than 2 cables by an extensive
rfo'f ro k fi Koura saki, and some reefs and islands off Mang osak.
Manrosalci and Koura saki are low bluffs ; ToM .ma and Nua suna rockj
111 covered with trees ; Nalase is a low rock, which it is said never covers.
atdorwh'handNakasima .tretch extensive reefs bounding the passag.
Irked during the strength of the tide by seething breakers, which break n
;Il fathoms N. by AV. and S. by E. are the courses recommended when
riVto^lJh with the tide, keeping midway between the breakers o.
1 tween Nakase and Naka sima. The current was observed to set out b.S.E.
1 V a little before change of stream. . , , ..

' lire gh this narrow passage the tide runs, or rather falls with a velocity
n.uch exceeding 8 knots at springs, changing regularly and suddenly every
rhourtt:! being no slai water. The junks cho^^^
Zl of he tide, when fair, to pass, but never attempt it when the wind is
.0 long as to require reduced canvas, for then the sea is said to be so

^ ' . ' ^ai ' ffi w w^ '" "

—j t— ,-» a. <^m p. \ A^ *f*t* ''f *

ig-ground is pro-
be South side of
in 6 to 8 fathoms,
r the use of the
ags. Off Talcura
ig at high water,

ot 6" 5'" ; springs
jf Akasi Strait, it

miles across at its
miles at 30 or 40
, or up to Awadji.
3 by Isumi Strait,
bound to Oosaka
I Passage, West of

»f the sea, which
Iharles Bullock, in
d to be a whirlpool,
las been attributed

or been dashed to
lilst the families of
ef afforded by go-
3ek. This channel
)ry of Awadji, and
ft'ide from point to
lies by an extensive
ids off Mang osaki.
id Kaka sima rocky
is said never covers,
inding the passage,
cers, which break in

recommended when
en the breakers, or
rved to set out S.S.E.

falls, with a velocity
• and suddenly every
+1ie early and latter
t it when the wind is
sea is baid to be so

w
n

SIO SAKI— WADASIMA HARBOTJl?.

Gl,-)

great that vessels are unmanagoablo ; however, there would bo no diffinilty
to steiim-vessels taking the passage in fair weather, at any time with a
fovourable tide, or within an hour of the change of stream before the
contrary tide has made strong, as the passage is distinctly marked ; but in
bad weather it would probably break right across, and the passage not be
discernible. The roar of the breakers can be heard several miles on a calm

night.

Tides.-It is high water, full and change, at Fukura, on the eastern side
of the passage, at 6" 17- ; springs rise 7 fbot, neaps (probably) 4^ foot. Tho
north-western stream makes at 2J hours before high water at Fukura,
changing every six hours nearly. North of tho Naruto passage the tides aro

anomalous.

H.M. surveying vessel Dove passed through the Naruto on the second day
after the moon's change, and at half tide, which is the period of the maxi-
mum velocity of the stream. Several junks passed through the same day
on both tides, either with a light fair wind, or drifted through in a calm.

If wishing to wait for slack water or change of stream, anchorage may be
found on the Awadji shore, at Ananga ura, on the North side of the Naruto,
and at Fukura on the South, in 4 to 8 fathoms. There is also excellent an-
chorage in Minotoye Bay, 5 miles to the westward.

Sio Saki, the S.W. point of Awadji, has two or three smaU hills on it
about 200 feet high. Eeefs extend 2 cables off it. also a 3-fathoms bank 7
cables to the westward.

Noma Sima is formed of some very flat-topped hills from 100 to 200 feet
high, bordered with low cliffs. It has reefs a cable off its South point;
there is a bay and village on its West side.

Isima lies in tho Kii Channel, at its narrowest part, at 25 miles S.S.E.
from tho Naruto Passage. It is smaU, and its southern peak is visible 30
miles It may be approached to within a mile, except on the West. The
channel to the West of it is 3 miles broad. Extending right across this
channel there appears several detached groups of rocks, some of which are
above water ; but there aro channels through them.

Wadasima Harbour.-On the West coast of tho I^i Channel, 14 miles
N W from Isima, lat. 34^ 0' N , is a bay affording exceUenf anchorage,
especially for smaller classes of vessels, in 5 fathoms, sand, completely land-
lucked ; and sufficient shelter for vessels of heavy draught from all dangerous
winds in 7 fathoms. Its only known danger is the Johnston Rock, which un-
covers 2 feet at low water, and lies N. by E. i E. 1^ mile from jrudasima,
the point of entrance. _

The, channel between Isima and Kamoda-saki (the eastern pomt of hikok)
i,s 3 miles broad ; in it are several detached groups of rock., reported by Mr.
J. Cheetham, of the schooner K^,ffir Chief, which do not cover at ln;^h water
and <miougst them (according to the description of the ti.hormcu ^^ho acted

•TlBli7SSS5WS?r«Br

rei«!ft/i')' »*l<.W*t"

f.lf, SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.

as pilots) aro sunken rocks, over which not more than 24 feet can be carried
in any of the channels, excepting the w.-sternmost, which the fishermen stated

to he cloar of danger and navigable. . „ ., . , i

TAKURA SAKI, tlio eastern point of entrance of Isumi Strait, is a woodfl
headland, with a small summer-house on its summit, the extremity of a
mountainous promontory. It is skirted with reefs extending 2 or 3 cables
West and South of it. The coast South of it is low and wooded for . miles,
as far as Zoga saki, a rocky point with four small islands off it which aro

'^ The eastern coast of the Kii Channel trends irregularly to southward. It
was surveyed by Commander Charles Bullock, K.N., in the Dove.

Hachken Gawa is a small river running through a plain 5 miles b.h. ot
Kata WaU Yama, a small isolated wooded hill, is on its left bank H mi]e
from the entrance ; on its summit stands the residence of the Prince of
Ksiou, conspicuous from the sea. There are only 3 feet water on the bar.
There are forts on both sides of the river.

South of Zoga saki is a bay 4 miles deep, and 3 across its entrance, in
which anchorage may be found in 4 to 10 fathoms.

Osaki Bay is H mile deep, and open to the W.N.W. The village o
Osaki stands on the shore of a narrow inlet on its North side, where small
vessels can find good shelter in T, to 2 fathoms, which they can also obtain
in Smotz ura, the innermost bay on the South side of the inlet. The only
danger is a rocky patch of one fathom 2 cables S.E. of the North entrance

Okino dma W. by S. i S. 2 miles from the entrance of Osaki, has a round
hill 275 feet high. Djino sima, East of it a mile, is 400 feet high, has
high cliffs towards the sea, and is wooded; it may not be passed inside.
A rock awash lies about 2 cables South of it.

Miya Saki 220 feet high, and 2 miles South of Okino sima, is an abnipt
wooded peninsula at the extremity of a range of small hills. On its North
4de the Aritn, a small stream, disembogues. It is navigable by small junks
ior a short distance up. Miya saki may be passed at 3 cables.

Takahara Bay is 5 miles deep and 6 miles across, between Miya saki and
Sirasai saki, its North and South points of entrance. At its head is the bay
of mmcatali, with anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms, well sheltered from all
winds except W. by S. A pier at the South end of the sandy beach at its
head and off a small town, protects small craft in a shallow inner harbour.

Two islands, Kura sima and Taka sum, lie off the southern shore of
Tskahara Bav. Both these islands may be passed at 2 cables, except the
South point of Taka sima, off which at nearly that distance there is a rock

awash. , . t^t i -j i*

The Karmno group of small islands with reefs about their North sides, lie

N.N.E. of Taka eima and West of Hirowatali Bay, with a cluster of rocks

m be carried
lermen stated

it, is a wooded
xtromity of a
; 2 or 3 cables
>d for 5 miles,
' it which arc

Duthward. It

fve.

miles S.E. of
bank H mile

the Prince of

er on the bar.

ta entrance, in

The village of
0, where small
can also obtain
ilet. The only
North entrance

iki, has a round

feet liigh, has

e passed inside.

na, is an abnipt
, On its North
3 by small junks

BS.

n Miya saki and
head is the bay
leltered from all
ady beach at its
inner harbour,
juthern shore of
ibles, except the
ce there is a rock

r North sides, lii'
a cluster of rocks

niNO MISAKT.

e\i

E.N.E. of them half way to the shore, the ground about which has not been

examined.

Unless desiring anchorage or working to windward against tide, Tskahara
Bay should not be entered within a line joining its points, as there are two
dangerous rocks lying in the centre and northern parts of the buy. Goldm
Bock, the other, so named from the largo amount of property lost thero, is
a very small patch, nearly awash at low water, and so steep that the lead
gives but little warning. It lies S. by E. 3 E. of Miya saki. The Sung-ami,
three-quarters of a mile North of the West point of Karamo, is a sunken
rock with 6 feet over it, and equally steep-to. It is also 1 .V mile N. by E. of
Taka sima, and S.E. J E. 2i miles from the point S.E. of Miya saki.

Sirasai Saki or White Rock Point, derives its name from the largo massos
of quartz in its cliffs, and which, with the white pinnacle rock 200 feet liigli,
4 cables E.S.E. of it, show very distinctly from the South. The point is
not high. A large round rock lies one cable N.W. of tlie point. Turtle wove
seen here. Fisherman Reef, a small narrow rock 4 feet above high water and
steep-to on the outside, lies 4 cables West of Sirasai saki. Oohiki Ura is a
bay between Sirasai saki and Yura no uchi, where a vessel might anchor for
the night with the wind off shore.

Yura No Uchi is a harbour 4 to 7 cables in breadth, and 2 miles deep,
and being sheltered by the sharp peaked island AU Sima and the extensive
reefs off the South point of entrance, always above water, is only open to
two points, viz. W. by S. and S.W. by W. Winds from these directions
cause some swell inside in a gale, but it is nevertheless a secure anchorage.
The smooth round hill, Kamane yama, on its North side, 860 feet high
and surmounted by a clump of trees, is conspicuous and well marks its

position.

HINO MISAKI, being at the turn of the coast, is the most prominent cape
in the Kii channel. Its terminal hill. Him yama, is smooth sloped, G75 foot
high, and the islet off it may be passed at 2 cables. It is steep-to, but the
tide sweeping out of the bay South of it, causes an appearance of broken
water, especially with a North wind. From thence the coast runs south-
eastward for 19 miles to Tanabe.

At 2i miles E.N.E. of Hino yama, on the East of the range extending
from it, is a high flat-topped saddle of nearly' 1,000 feet elevation, and very
conspicuous from the S.E. Along this beach anchorage may be obtained in
4 to 9 fathoms at about half a mile off shore.

The only danger in approaching the anchorage, near the mouth of the
smiU river Ilida ka kaiva, is a large flat reef, named Nnsima, the inner part
of which is 15 feet above high water. It lies two-thirds of a mile off the
coast, a mile South of the river's mouth.

Ilibe Saki.— The round smooth hill, Kirime yama, rises over this prominent
point. The coast to the S.E. of the range has several outlying reels, the

6,8 SOUTn COAST OF NTPON.

lurgost of which extendi 4 oabloB ou Arari Point in detached partB, and its

extremity is S. W. by W. i W. 3i miles from llib^-saki. Eastward of Aran

Point is a bay affording good anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.

North of W Point is a round hill, on the summit of which are three

Hplke-shaped monuments ; and 3 and 4 miles inland, North and N^E. of this.

are two large hill clumps which are very conspicuous from the offing.

TANABE' BAY is formed in a bight of the coast, 22 miles S.W. of Hino

misaki, its outer parts exposed only to West and N.W. When approaching
from the south-eastward, It.ice >nmki, the most projectmg point of the ^ast,
will first be made, and being very similar to Cape Tanabe. the bay between
them, in thick weather, may be mistaken for that of Tanab6. Itsive misaki
i« a sloping point with a low terminating cliff, but the hills over it are n uch
higher than those of Cape Tanabe, and rise to a sharp peak, the outer of a
continuous high range. The summit of Cape Tanab^ which has a single
conspicuous tree on it. is only 539 feet high, and falls abruptly inknd^

Zki Point, North of the cape, is very dangerous, a reef with two slets
on it extending North half a mile from the point, and the Isakx reef ot fla.
rocks above water, lying that distance West of it There are sunken
reefs and shoal water between the latter reef and the point, and off both
reefs the shoal water extends 2 or 3 cables beyond the outer visible

'Tthe north-western part of entrance of Tanabe Bay are the Saito and
North Bay reefs. 4 cables apart with a deep water channel between them^
These Js are low and .uite flat. At 2 cables distance S.E. and Noi.h of
Saito. the southern of them, are sunken rocks, and off North Bay Eeef is a
..nail rock like a boulder. In bad weather with the wind m. all the known
dangers would break. a xu * a«

The best anchorage is in the south-eastern arm of the bay. South of An-
chorage Island. This island may be recognized by the dark trees dotted
over it. and a tree islet West of it from which a long uncovered reef
extends. The end of this reef may be passed at a cable ; then steer to pass
the same distance of the north-east point of Anchorage Island, between it
and the sunken rocks of Passage Ileef in 6 to 10 fathoms, irregular bot-
tom. Having passed along the East side of the island, stand in S.W
I S., anchoring in 10 to 8 fathoms, in a secure and thoroughly sheltered

^'"Tlrnorth-eastern part of Tanabe Bay has many shoals. In the centre of
the bay is the Binzli. an extensive reef with several rocks on it, dry and
awash at low water. On the North shore a small river discharges itself,
runnln.' close under the white loop-holed wall suiTouuding a r..-sulence of the
D.imio. the imperial Prince .f Ksiou. The village of "anabe.iand. on the
.horeof the sandy bay to the westward of the river, -^ to th^ North is a
mountain range, the highest part of which rises to the height of 2.6a0

STWO MISAKl-0() SIMA IIAKBOUIl.

619

parts, and its
tward of Avari

hich are three
idN.E. ofthis,
e offing.
S.W. of Hino
en apprc aching
int of the coast,
le bay between
Itsive niisaki
iver it are much
, the outer of a
;h has a single
ly inland.
f with two islets
saki reef of flat
ere are sunken
nt, and off both
le outer visible

e the Saito and
, between them.
E. and North of
;h Bay Eeef is a
n, all the known

ly, South of An-
lark trees dotted
r uncovered reef
hen steer to pass
iland, between it
as, irregular bot-
d, stand in S.W.
iroughly sheltered

In the centre of
ks on it, dry and
dischnrges itself,
a resilience of the
inabe stands on the
to th3 North is a
le height of 2,G50

fcot, the ridgo curving round to the range which terminates in Itsiyo

misaki. • ■ e

Tanabe has proved at times n ccmveniont anchorage, the usual position for
anchoring being South of the Daimio's residence, but bettor shelter in
westerly winds would bo found N.E. of the Bin/.li Keef. Two sunken ri.cks
liP.ve lately been discovered in the fairway to the above anchorage ; one of
'22 feet water is S. i E. 4.} cables from the islet oil' Maru-yama point; tho
other with \-y feet is S.S.E. S E. at tho same distance. To anclior, stand in
for tho green earthwork East of the wliito wall of tho I^aimio's residence,
bearing E.N.E. till Ebisima shuts in with tho islet off Maru-yama Point ;
then keep East and anchor in 6 to 4 fathoms. The low rock of liinzli always

shows.

SIWO MISAKI.— Tho shove from Itsivo misaki to Siwo misnki, a distance
of 21 miles E.S.E., is very bold and under a high mountainous coast tormi-
uating in a promontory of table land, which is the extreme South point of
Nipon. There is a gi-eat race off Siwo misaki, immediately North of winch
the tides are felt, though tho Japan stream washes tho South sliuru of this
and of 06 sima. After a south-easterly gale the sea comes in round this
point in immense rollers,. such as are rarely seen on ^ny coast.

Directions.-Passing through the Kii channel it is recommended to steer
always for Hino misaki. The course from Isumi Strait is Suutli 2r. miles,
and from Naruto S.E. by S. 30 miles, which latter course, continued lor 25
miles further, passes Itsive misaki at about 3 miles, from which an E.S.E.
course for 25 miles leads on to Siwo misaki.

00 SIMA HARBOUR is formed between 06 sima and the East side of the
extreme South point of Nipon (the East point of entrance to tho Kii channel)
which is a curious clump of land, 300 feet high, named Siwo misaki, con-
nected to the mainland by a low isthmus. Its vicinity was surveyed by Com-
mander J. Ward, E.N., H.M.S. Acicco?i, in 18G1. Tho harbour has two an-
chorages ; one in the bay on the S.W. side of 06 sima, completely sheltered,
but the water rather deep ; the other in 4 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom and
good holding ground, off the village of Ilasikiwi on the mainland in the
northern part of the harbour.

Easikiwi Anchorage is well sheltered except to the N.E., where it is open
from a small arc ; it has also some protection from the remarkable chain of
rucks, from 20 to 75 feet high, extending in a southerly direction half a milo
Irom'the shore eastward of the village, but being detached with deep water
between, they do not form a perfect breakwater, rmyama Rock, the inner-
most, is in lat. 33» 29' 8' N., long. 135" 48' 55" E. The best position is with
Ihino mna, the outer rock of the above chain, bearing E.N.E. distant U ca-
ble, and Mioga sima. South, or on with Isumo saki, the West entry point.

This very eligible harbour is largely resorted to by windbound juuks, and
it offers every facility for repairs and replenishing supplies. There are three

,1*

820 SOUTH COAST OF NIPON.

v.lluges, two (mthomaiulaml and oneon the inland. Water is easily obt.i nod
from tho latter village, it being led down in bamboo pli-os to tlie rocks,
which have deep water alongside them. The large village of Kmn,u>to on
the isthnms, is well supplied with all the essentials usually re.iuirud by the

coasting trade.

The cargoes of the windbound junks consisted of nee, sugar, tobacco,
charcoal, s.dt, sake (spirits), and dried fish, (^harcoal of an excellent quahty
lor steaming purposes was obtained from them. The villagers .applied hsh
and poultry ; some deer were brought olf. also a few bullocks, and a small

.luantity of vegetables.

•Vpproac.hing Oo sima harbour from the westward, a heavy tide race is oftci
met with olf Siwo misaki, which is skirted by uneven masses of rock, must
of it showing at low water, with rocks awash 3 or 4 miles from shmv
liottlc Hock, lying South a .luurter of a mile from the point, has some i-ul
■n-ound l.i cable outside it; a rocky spit extends about a quarter of a m.le
oif Wedge Head, and there is broken ground at nearly the same distance

off Isumo saki. ^ .i

To clear these dangers, the right extreme of Oo sima, the most southern
point seen, must not be brought eastward of E.N.E. until Mioga smut comes
well open of Isumo saki N.N.W., wlien it may be steered for, taking care
not to bring it northward of that bearing until within half a uule of it,
or until the East extreme of Isumo saki bears S.S.W. \ W., when steer
N W i N passing mid-channel between the land and Mioga suna, which
has a small ledge running off its South side; after passing Mioga steer lor
the anchorage of llasikiwi. , , , ,

If compelled to work in, the 06 sima shore is the clearest, but take care
to avoid a dangerom rock lying nearly 2 cables westward of the N.VV. part ol
Tsuya sima, an island 120 feet high olf the S.W. point of 06 sima. Ihe
iS W bay of 06 sima is clear of danger.

Koza-Gawa is a small but opulent town situated on the East side of the
entrance of a river, H miles N.N.E. of the North point of 06 sima. Ihe
river bas a shifting bar, but a channel is always available for coasting junks.
Generally speaking breakers show the position of the shoals, and what to
avoid when entering. At high water, which Is about 7" lull and change 10
feet may be looked for on the bar, probably more, but strangers should adopt
the precaution of sending a boat ahead to sound.

At the North end of the town is an extensive timber yard, m which are
Hpars of considerable dimensions. Ko/a-gawa is also the seat of an important

whale fishery. . w « w -i;

TJRAKAMI HARBOUR is an inlet running 1.1 miles in a VV.b.W. ui-
rection into the land at 8 miles N.E. of Oo sima harbour, and, although
small atlords excellent shelter in 4 to 5 fatlu.ms, over stiff muddy bottom.
Eor sLmers it oilers un admirable haven, but being only a quarter of a uule

''•'•* i ' «'i^yw iy awi-y*!i^* < ^^ '- ^y*^ ' '--" ^'^ - '^ ^^ ■

CAVE XTMA.

02 1

I easily ubtiiincil
s to tlie rouks,
of A'uxiinotu on
retiuiroil by tlu)

sugar, tobaiTo,
exwlkmt (iiialily
era •supplied tiali
ks, aud u mnull

tide race in ofton
j8 of rock, iMONt
liles from shore".
t, has some Imil
(quarter of a milo
10 same distance

le most southern
klioga sinia coini's

for, taking care
lalf a mile oi it,

W., when steer
ioga sima, which
ir Miopia steer for

'st, but take care
' the N.VV. part of
of OiJ sima. Tho

East side of tho
of Oil sima. Tho
for coasting junks,
oals, and what to
;'ull and change, 10
lugers should adopt

rard, in which arc
eat of an important

, in a W.S.W. di-
jur, and, although
tiff muddy bottom.
■ a (quarter of a mile

wiilo, sailing vpflsols might experif-ncv n ditliculty in petting in or out. par-
ticularly entering, as from tho direction of tho valley at the lioad of the har-
bour the wiTul, which nmy be free outside, is frocjuently found inside to be
blowing straight out.

In entering tnko care to avoid a spit of rocks projecting upwards of half a
mile in a N.E. direction from tho South point of entranco. One <.f them,
named Jfin; is 30 feet high, and si^mo are covered, but show suHunontly to
render them easily to be avoided.

The COAST for 130 miles N.E. of Ura-kami has only been partially ex-
amined, but is delineated from the Japanese manuscript.

Goza Inlet, in lat. 34^ 17' N., long. 136' 4f.' E., affords shelter from all but
West winds, but has very uneven rocky bottom, and ledges off all the points.
It is therefore recommen.led not to anchor farther up than abreast tho first
opening on the North, in r, to 7 fathoms.

CAPE XIMA or Sima is directly 8.E. of Goza Inlet. From time to time
recks have been reported to lie off it, and an examination has proved thorn to
be of tho most dangerous character. Two low and small islands, called Osi-
ma, with clumps of largo trees on them, stand a mile or two off the coast be-
tween Capo Sima and Goza entrance, from which long reefs were soon ex-
tending in all directions, and detached sunken rocks to crop up in various
places. Those generally break, owing to the constant swell caused by tho
strong tides off tho capo. The outer rock which breaks is S.W. i W. of
Nami-kiri-saki, S.S.E. i E. 5 miles from the wooded entranco head of
Goza, and S. by W. 2 miles from tho outer Osima. Numerous tide rips
occur outside the reefs.

Matoya Harbour lies 5 miles North of Cape Sima, and is open only to the
East; half a mile within its entrance, anchorage may be obtained in 7 fa-
thoms, but beyond this the harbour has not been examined. A cluster of
rocks lies in the entrance, North of the South head, on which is a Japanese
lighthouse.

To the northward of this are the extensive inlets called Oicari Hay and
Mibiica Bay, of which wo have no accounts but the information given by the
Japanese suivey. From Irako-saki, their eastern part, a straight coast trends
to the eastward for 28 miles to Hamana, which was not seen in passing it,
and, therefore, it is presumed to be shallow. The water about here is
much discoloured.

OMAE-SAKI is a dark wooded bluff 150 feet in height, terminating a very
sandy shore with high beaches, backed by wooded hills. It may also bo
recognized by two remarkable white patches, only one of which is visible
fronTEast to West. Two miles E. by S. of its southern point are the Lady
T»gUs Bods, separated by a fathoms channel, reefs extending 2 cables from

- ■*-t:.^f7J^¥ ji.W!. W?- V WSV^^'aiyUIt'Soe'-S

622

SOT"ni COAST OF NIPON.

tho shorn. It wna (liscoven;(l hy the wreck of tlio Ltvhi lin/Iis, Captain TT.
T-.vizoll, of Shiolda, in Docenihor, 18.j!), but its position is horo accuratoly
given by Captain Bullock. Tho ri;(»f quite covers at higii water, and docs
not always break. It should have a beacon. In a 8.VV. galo good shelter
maybe obtained under tho loo of Omao-Siiki in 7 to 4 fatlioms, not closer in.
A vessel may pass inside the reef by giving tho shore a berth of a miln. Tho
bottom is ovcrywiiero sand, with shells and stones. There is a lighthouse on
tho South bluff.*

CAUTION.— As the Lady Inglis Eeof, and also tho Portsmouth Breakori,
lie in tho direct route of vessels bound to Siraoda and Yedo from tlio
westward, a good look out should bo kept, and more than ordinary
care taken when approaching their locality. It may easily bo avoid('<l
by a passing vessel in favourable weather, as parts of it being dry at
low water the reef must nearly always show itself by breakers. Al-
though the position assigned on the chart to tho Portsmouth breakers
has been sailed over by H.M. ships, and in all kinds of weather, nothing
has been soon since first reported, and it seems highly probable they are
either identical with the Lady Inglis Eeof, or that a shoal of fish or a
current overfall caused the disturbance in the water, which gave birth to
the report.

The current sots strongly through tho various passages 'between the chain
of islands off the Gulf of Yedo, and this should bo remembered, particularly
in bad weather. As before stated, in their vicinity, in fact throughout tho
path of the Japan current from the South end of Formosa to Behring Strait,
constant heavy tide ripsf will bo encountered, which, in light winds, fre-
quently render a vessel for a time unmanageable.

6T7LF of SURUGA (the Tutomi Gulf of former charts), the waters of
which wash the western shore of the peninsula of Idsu, is 34 miles deep and
23 miles wide at entrance, and, with the exception of the Lady Inglis Eeof,
lying E. by 8. 2 miles from Omae-saki, the low sandy West point of
entrance, is free from any impediment to navigation. The water in it is very
deep, no bottom at 250 fathoms being found at mid-entrance, none at 160
fathoms midway across near the head of the gulf, and none at 110 fathoms
at a little more than a mile from tho western shore.

• Portsmouth Breakers. — Captain Foote, of the U.S. frigate Portimouth reports, 30th of
March, 1858, that ho nearly lost his vessel on a reef of rocks, about 35 miles in a south-
westerly direction from Simoda, and 13 miles from tho nearest land, but no indication of
such a shoal was found by Captain Bullock, though a remarkablo discolouration of the water
has been seen.

+ Those rips have often been mistaken for shoals. See description of Japan stream,
pp. 449, 450.

Captain TT.

ro acciinitoly
ei", and dnus
good sholtor
not closer in.
a miln. Tho
lighUwasc on

th Broakoi'i,
ido from tli<i
lan ordinary
■ bo avoid('<l
)oing dry at
Dakers. Al-
uth breakers
her, nothing
iblo they are
of fish or a
javo birth to

len the chain
, particularly
roughout tho
ahring Strait,
t winds, fre-

;he waters of

liles deep and

Inglis Keof,

est point of

)r in it is very

none at 160

110 fathoms

reports, 30th of
ttiles in a south-
no indication of
ition of the water

f Jupan stream.

FUSIYAMA-SIMIDZU HARBOUR.

623

The eastern side of the gulf, tho shore of the Idsu p<>ninsula, is generally
a belt of cliffs, broken, however, into several deep water havens, wliitli,
though small, afford good anchorage, but for sailing vessels with a foul wind
are all difficult of access, and tho entrances of those harbours that are known,
Tago, Arari, Iloda, and Eno-ura Bays, on the Idsu shore, are too nan-ow to
admit of much mancnuvring.

FUSIYAMA. — At the head of the gulf is Fusiyama, the highest mountain
in Japan, and although its summit is 15 miles inland, it appears in clear
weather to rise nearly abruptly from the beach.

Fusiyama is held to be sa:!red by tho Japanese, and is the object of pil-
grimage. The first Europeans who ascended it wore a party of eight
Englishmen, at the head of whom was Sir Euthorford Alcock, C.B., tlio
British Envoy and Plenipotentiary in Japan. They left the Consulate at
KanagawB; September 4th, 18ti0. The crater on the summit is about 1,000
yards long, 600 yards wide, and 350 yards deep. The height of tho odgo of
the crater was found to be 13,077 feet, and the highest peak 14,177 feet, lat.
35° 21' N., long. 138- 42' W.*

The high road between Yedo and Miako and the western province forms
a tangent to the head of the gulf, and it is very probable that tho railroad
from Yedo to Osaka, &c., proposed by the Japanese Government, will pass by
the same route.

SIMIDZU HAEBOUR, surveyed by H.M.S. Actaon in 1861, is formed
by a low flat tongue of land of considerable width, stretching out in a
north-easterly direction from the north-western shore of the gulf. It is
most commodious, and affords good shelter in 10 to 15 fathoms soft mud,
with an inner anchorage at its head, available for small craft, in which, if
required, they could be beached for repairs. A small river empties itself at
its bead.

This tongue of low land is well covered by sugar plantations and villages.
Its extreme North point, of sand and shingle, is steep-to, there being no
bottom at 100 fathoms at a little more than a mile off shore, and vessels
running for the harbour may safely skirt the beach, and rounding the
point at 2 cables, anchor by the load, or as convenient. The town is
situated at the South end of tho harbour, and appears to be one of
some little importance. It is the centre of a large and productive sugar
growing district ; plantations of the cane are to be seen in every direction.

In a timber yard at the North side of the town were some large spars,
pine, and fir (the latter having a very short grain), numerous small rough

• A very interesting account of this ascent of Fusiyama, anil of Japanose matters in
gonorul, is given in the Jour. Koy. Geo. Society, 1861, pp. 322 — 3JG.

:gas?8rasE*fS'i^!»S'5saE

,..2, 801TTH COAST OF Nil'* )N

Hpar. and small piocoB <,t particularly hard oak Thoro woro ^^^^^^^

«!„„r of a v..rv fair .,udity in tho town, al«o a l.ttlo Hour, a fow fo.ln, bsh,

ttud vottotttbloH. Waf.r was obtaiuod froiu tho authorities.

No coal wa« soon, but a quantity of charcoal. Tho latter when attainable

in sufhciont quantitloB in admirably adapted for sfamin^ purpo^.n.

ENO-URA BAY,* an ox.a.ll.,ut liarbour, r.-port.Ml by the Japaueno to be a
xuuch better harbour than Siaiidza, lie« in the N.E. angle at the head o
«uruga Gulf, in lat. ..V . N„ Ion,. 1^8^ 53 E. It is 9 cab e« long. North
and iouth. and .i cables deep. Ara .una, a wooded island ailordin, Hhelte
from westerly winds. lie« o(f the South point of entrance, and tliere is a
.uHll monument on the North point. The soundings in the ^^f^
..0 to 30 fathoms, and it is open to the West, but there is good ^^ l^u ^^ '"
all winds in a small bay in its northern part, where the depth is 13 fathoms
over a bottom of tine sand. In steering for this small bay, keep midway
between its western .horo and the dill's on the eastern. A town stands on

the western shore. , . , r •* „it\r

There is a river in Eno-ura Bay, but as water is obtained from it with

difficulty on account of its Bhallowness, it is best to procure it from tlie town

wells. There is abundance of fish and vegetables. The rise and fall of tide

is about 4 feet. , , . . _.

Heda Bay. in lat. 34" 58' 11" N., long. 138" 46' E., is 8 cables in extent
N W and S.E., 4 to 9 cables wide, and carries a depth of 8 to 22 fathoms
over a bottom of fine sand. It is a safe and accessible anchorage, and is
sheltered on all sides by high mountains. There is a village m a valley.
Fish and vegetables are abundant.

The entrance to tho bay, a quarter of a mile wide, and open to the
N W is to the northward of a low and sandy spit extending hal a mile
in a northerly direction fi'om the southern shore. The rise of tide is .i

^''\rari Bay, sheltered also from all winds, but only fit for -^^^^ :^^'l^
is in lat. 34" 50' N., and long. 138" 46' E. Its extent is 4 cables North
and South, and 2 to cables across, and the depths are 6 to 12 fathoms
over fine sand. The shores of the bay are mountainous. Water may
be conveniently obtained from the village on the eastern shore; fish is

^'^"he entrance is open to the N.AV. ; in entering keep in mid-channel, and
^vhenasmall island opens, steer between it and the sandy point to the

S W
'TagO Bay, in lat. 34" 47' 3" N., long. 138" 44' 54" E., is 4 cables in extent

. Tho description of Eno-ura, Heda, Araxi, and Tago Bays, is by Lieut. Elkin, of the
Itusbiau frigate Diana, ia53~iJo.

>ro (iimntitios of
fow fowln, ti8li,

■ when attainablo
irpoccH-

.lupiiuoHC* to bo a
} at tilt! head of
blo8 lor.g, Nortli
aH'ording Hholter
, and tluTo is a
10 buy aro doqi,
good fehelter froui
pth is 13 fathoms
ay, keep midway
k. town stands on

ined from it with
D it from tlie town
iso and fall of tide

8 cables in extent

■ 8 to 22 fathoms
anchorage, and is
Uago in a valley.

and open to the

3ndiug half a mile

rise of tide is 5i

fit for small craft,
is 4 cables North
.vo 6 to 12 fathoms
ous. Water may
tern shore; fish is

a mid-channel, and
sandy i)oint to the

is 4 cables in extent

VOLCANIC ISLCTS. SOITTH-EAST ••!'' JAPAN, 62.',

North and South, and Imlf a milo wide. It i. .holtorod from all winch, and
carries a dopthof 12 to 20 fathom., soft mrul bottom. Thmnsa small tow.>
here, and water can bo obtai..ed from tho wolls. Fish and v.-getnblos can

l)e procnrod. , .,,,,, . , i„

In steering for the ontranco. whi.h is also open to tho N.W., two .slands
(lying half a milo W.N.W. from the South point of entrance) w.U be seen,
with rocks and breakers extending to tho southward from then,. lass
northward of those islands, between them and tho mainland.

Tliese four bays just described will serve as a refuge from S.W. w.nds
which cause a great swell in Suruga Gulf. Their coasts are wood.d and
mountainous, attaining the height of 1.00,. feet. The entrances mus be
approached fearlessly, for the high coast conceals them, and the bajs only
open when within a mile.

VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTTT-EAST OF JAPAN.
A very remarkable range of detached islets and rocks extends for nearly
.3«^niles in a S.S.E. direction from the entranceof theGu.f of Yodo. There
i«no portion of tho ocean which has been more misrepresented than th s m
our older works, and the great number of supposed discoveries rendered the
1 ar Ifu ed that no adequate idea could be gained of their number or
a r ngement. The author endeavoured in 1858 to reconcile these vague
Tmeses and great discrepancies, so as to give a more correct representation

"'Tt:;:ottrar:rnfusion has ^s.. no doubt from the unsuspected ni-
flul e o the great Japanese current, which rushes through the group with
oxarerated aL uncertain velocity, and thus al..cting the dead reckoning of
"any or most of the ships which announced discoveries, most of which are
ZiLZZard of the true positions. It wiU be unnecessary to discuss these
la y^^^^^^^^^^ since they are now in a great measure roconciled by exact
oZvations ; and this is of the greatest importance, seeing that an increasing
coZtce b tweeu China, Japan, and North-Western America, passes
Z: h hese channels. What follows will, therefore, be confined to a bnef
descrfption of what is well ascertained, connected with an identification, when
possible, with what has been but vaguely surmised. ......

OOSIMA or Vries Island, is the northernmost of these islands. I is

OO-SIMA, or vri« beine an active volcano, Krusenstern applied

sometimes called Ohostma; and, bemgan ^ southward

the name of Fries Island to it, to distinguish it from that to the southward.

On VrstboM'B chart it is called Barne.eld^. Island. Its south-eastern

by Lieut. Elkin, of the

See Transactions of the British ABSOciation, 185«.

North Pacific.

;i5s>v3>'-iVi>f »*'^ "*'^ •'

896 VOl.rANlC ISl.KTS. SOUTTI-KAMT OV .lAI'AN

■ .• • 1 f Ti^ 'jqv N l.M.ir. i:t'.»- 2H' E. Th.- island Ir oviil Hlnti....!.

::;!:;::::;r:::::r «o..n. ..... ..

work in the crut'r bon.ath. fornung in dear weather a. onsp.cuous landmark

visible by night or day IV.r many Icaguos.

Thorn aroLvoral villa,,, on tho i.h.nd. and a considorablo popu nt p^

Tir::.t linn i. IVnn o.' all dan... .i.h the c.cnption of _ a i^w .b,tju |.

rocks and bouldors lyi..R clo«o to it. Tho rr.nc.nal vdlago )h on tho North

d off which a narrow bank of Boundings ailordn a pmcanons „no orag

no to 18 fathon... Another couBidcrabln viUagn, hav.ng tho advanta,.; o1

a j Jd h bo r. i« situated at thn Houth-oast point of th. island. Und.,.g

Jay bo efloctod at tho North village, or in tho junk harbour Tho n-

hrbital were civil and hospitable, but avorBo to strangers v.s.tmg tho

'"-nr/.V./v.» rs}a,uls of tho old .harts lie to tho southward of Oii-sima. They
are now tolerably well represented on the charts, having boon exanuned by
IIMSJrtoHinlHOl. Thoy conBist of tho following.

To Sima, bearing S.S.AV. 10 miles from 0;i-Bin.a, N. 1, W. ^ -;^-;-";
rton ' is one mile in diameter, pyramidal shaped, and - summit 1.73(. feet

above tho sea. .

Utone' is a conical islet, CG6 feet high. Detached rocks bo n.^ar >ts

shores. , ., tvt n r

Nil SIMA is about 2i miles S. i W. from Utone, and l.i mdes N.L. o
Slk^no and from its broken outline appears from a d.tanco as severa
fstnd . Its extent is 5 miles. North and South and its most elevated
pa^U 496 lent above the sea. There is a small low islet a short distance oil

"^^^ is low, with a small islet off its North end It is l.i mil.s
w N.N.K. and S.S.W., and lies 5 miles N.E. of Kosu sima One of the
vessels of the American squadron passed between these islands, and saw no
danger ; there is, therefore, reason to believe that the channel is safe.

KOSU SIMA, in lat. 34° 13i' N., long. 139' S' E. (centre^ and elevated
2 000 feet above the sea, is H miles long N.E. and S.W.. and may berecog-
:Z by a remarkable snow-white cliff on its western side, and a white patch
r its summit, to the northward of the cliff. There is a safe channel 15
miles wide between Kosu sima and Miaki. ,v. i . v, if

Two small rocky islets (on Japanese authority) be close together about half
a mile off the centre of the eastern shore of Kosu sima. About 2 nules
Bouthward of the S.W. point of Kosu sima are tho Brood M., winch
should be given u safe berth, as their jagged appoarauco would lead to

In ovi\l hIiiiimmI,
A iiiilcH wiilf.
tH (Mintre in nil
y fl()lltiIl^;, mill
iminfnu tiri'H iit
(juous Inndiuark

ible popnlntion.
a fow (Ifftnc'litil
^ on tho Nortli
rious nnoborago
;lie ft(lvnnta;,M> of
-tliuid. liaiuliiig
rbour. Tho in-
jors vi8itin(5 tlio

ifOii-sima. Thoy
ion examined by

\\. 2 niilo8 from
luuimit 1,73(5 foet

•ocks lie near its

IJ miles N.E. of
stance as several
its most elevated
fc short distance oil

1. It is IJ miles
lima. One of the
lands, and saw no
mel is safe.
tre\ and elevated
and may be recog-
aud a vrhito patdi
a safe channel 15

together about half
a. About 2 miles
Brood Iloch, which
inco would lead to

UHDKIKM) IJOf'K"^.

697

flu. bnliof tint thero aro many hidd... dangm-n i,. tl...ir inunodiato n.'i.'h-

bourhood.

Onohara is a small i.l.-t W.S.W. .'. miles distant fn.m MinUi. It m not
kaown to have boon visited by E.iropoans, but Irom a dmtau.o ai-pears to
maintain tl... usual bold clmract-ristics of the other islands.

REDFIELD ROCKS, or Sanbon-take. wor- thus named by Commodore
Perry IT S N in IHVl, after the well-known metoovo'o-ist. at.d ho also
ascertained their exa.:t position (see Narrative of T.S. .Japan Kxpca.t..n,

p. '1«1)'

They aro tho most western of tho chain of islands an I rocks South of the
Gulf of Yedo, and the most dangerous of the whole group. They consmt ot
two patches of black rocks extending nearly .'1 miles N.N.lv and ^.S.W.,
and have deep water all round them. The south..rn rocks, in hit. a.r ..<. lo'
N h.n- i;iS .|H'3l'E., aro the highest, about 20 feet above h.gh water,
,vhile the northern are only about half that height. Nearly midway between
the patches is aflat rork, over whi...h the sea bre.tks heavily, and the heads of
two or three small rocks crop up around it. There is said to bo deep water
between the flat rock and t!ie northern patch, and the channel is reported
to be clear, but except in a case of sudden emergency it would not bo
prudent to attempt passing through.* The northern group is in lat. .U
67' 81' N., long. 1158^ 19 UV.

Tho hand load will afford no warning when approaching this dangerous
cluster, and in thick weather the islands in the vicinity, the nearest being
Kosu sinm, N.E. i E. 20 miles distant, would not be seen; m fact, seeing
the islands, the dangers themselves would be visible, and therefore easily

avoided.

I^ depth of 70 fathoms, gravelly bottom, was obtained about 4 miles
northward of the rocks ; and at 2 miles West of their centre there was no
bottom at 130 fathoms. The current i. their vicinity set on one occasion
about N. by E., and its rate was 2 to 3 knots.

MIAKI, Mitake, or Volcano I8land.-The summit of this island is in lat.
34= 6' N long 139^ 31'. It is called Brandten Eyland (burning island) by
De Vries', who places a group of rocks to the S.W. of it. Uroughton says
that there are, in addition, some black rocks at tho distance ot 2 or 3 nnles
from the East point of the island. According to him Volcano Island
is large, well cultivated, and covered with verdure to the summit of a
very high mountain which stands on it, and presents a very agreeable

prospect. ••It

Mikura, or Prince Island of De Vries, is also high. Its summit is in lat.

. Captain J. E. DonnoU pasaed through this channel on May 6th, 1860. He says that
the whole group is very dangtrous.

■^gmmifiem^:^'^'^-^'''^''^''''''''''''^

,,, VO,.<.ANT0 IS1.WS, SOUTH EAST OK JAPAN,

33" 52, long. 139 .14 , v"'«

of De Vries. . „., ..i, xj lonnr. 139" 171 E., is

BROUGHTON ROCK, or Kanawa, in lat. 33 ^. , ^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^

v.itb 180 fathoms Ime. ^,^^,^,,^^00.1 of this islet nas found to be

The northorly current m tiie neib"""
particularly strong, running nearly 4 ^^^^^^^"^^e islands visited bv the

TATSIZIO ISLAND the most soutl^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^ ^

^ef<.«n in 1861, « 8J nules long ^ V -.f^^^^iy ,, oblong, rounded at the
,ide at its broadest part^ In shape ts near^ ^ ^ . ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^

N.W. end, while at its S.B. end a ^'^^'^^"l ^^^ ,,. ,. 24- N.. long,
nervation in which, close to some --^11^;^;^' ^^^ , ,^ ,, fathoms, sand
1390 50' 24" E. Anchorage was ob^amed o^ th by ^^^^

and gravel, at less than a -f^^^^ltl^^^^^^^^^^^

S.S.W. to N.N.E., and a vessel -^^^^ ^^J^ ^ miles off this shore

swell. There were 30 fathoms, ^-^folrre the bold features and to be a
but the rest of the coast line appeared to share

Bteep-to as the generality of these islands^ .^ ^^

This island is a penal settlement o ^^^^^ J' J^^^,_ \t the ba.

northern, where a ^^^^^^ ^ rrtl^ln its West side,
of this mountain and cxeepng up ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^

au extensive settlement, -^^^^ ^'^ J^^^^ ^^^,^,^^^ ..uld appear to suppo
found little l-l«^«;f ; Yt^ J ^1 tnd in the centre of and e.ten
a considerable population. /; ^^tt To the southward of this the la,

the northern part. ^^ streams of delicic

,nttelong,.«<l«..lyone^l;WajmE ^_^^^^ .b„„. ^ mile, wi

F.,Bizio, .Bd separated from .ha. «l.Kl by .^ ^_^ ^^^ ^^ ^

,i* W "Ot 3.. t- »-; ^ 2: ;r,„ „,,;,„, aange„ are a. ,

r:u'°Cl"wl«.ho~. A email popolaUon i. . be found o.
lower part of J^ e jlaBd^ .^ , p^j^^ fc„,.,y ,eriflei

OJnett. It w«» 1 2. It y:m not visited by H,l

rl"" STX'o'ion or its ea..e™ .u.mit was asso.ed (fro

lk\5ffV

■^

OF JAPAN.

, the Ongelukkig Eylarul

N., lon^T. 139" ^'^ ^■' ''
pped, and so bold that at
idings could be obtained

this islet naa found to be

ir.

;]ie islands visited hv the
S.E. by S., and 4 oiilen
m oblong, rounded at the
rms a bay, the spot of ob-
ti lat. 33^^ 4' 24" N., long.
3 bay in 16 fathoms, sand
D, but quite expuned from
liable to experience a heavy
)out 2 miles off this shore,
le bold features and to be as

1. Its highest part is the
I of 2,846 feet. At the base
istanco on its West side, is
;es along both shores, are
and would appear to support
in the centre of and extend-
southward of this the land
as not reach the altitude of

,e small streams of delicious
her and smooth water boats

i island, 1,826 feet high, U
estward of tht highest part oi
channel about 2 miles wide,
rocks, as is also the case with
) off-lying dangers are at pre-
1 53 fathoms, a little more than
lation is to be found on the

) a Dutch discovery verified by
i of Captain Drescher, in the
It was not visited by H.M.S,
1 summit was assumed (from a

KONING WILLEM III. ISLAND.

620

true bearing of it from Fatsizio, and the difference of latitude from a
Japanese chart proved very nearly correct in most details) to be in lat.
32^= 37i' N., long. 139" 47^' E. The island is 3 miles long, and visible 36
miles off in clear weather Its coasts are steep, and tlie only landing place
is on the Jjtist side, where there is a rock level with the water at a little dis-
tance from the land. It is inhabited and cultivated on the North and N.W.
sides.

KONING WILLEM III. ISLAND was seen, if not discovered, by Captain
A. C. Van Braam Houckgeest, in H. Netherlands M. brig Koerier, on
August 24, 1849, determining the position as 'at. 'iV b'l' 18' N., long, by
three clironometers as 139" 38' 46" W. It was named after tho King of
Holland. A reef hereabout was seen, according to Mr. Reynolds' memoir,
(page 212), in 1825, on the auuiority of Captain Macy, by Captain Coffin.
If this be correct, it ought to be called Coffin hland. Most likely it is tho
same as I'ihliU Island; but, as stated bo' w, there is still considerable doubt
as to the positions of this dangerous cluster.

This reef was evidently seen by the Ulitalch Jumhaii, in May, 1863 Her
commander places tham in 31° 52' N., loig. 139" 53', the current setting
N.E. 2 knots. A shoal was plainly s^en, the bottom visible in about 5
fathoms, at 7 miles W.H.W. from the rocks. Strong ripplings will be en-
countered at 8 or 10 miles W.8.W. cf their position.

Notwithstanding these circumstantial accounts which so nearly accord in
their position of this reff, there is much difficulty in determining whether
there is more than one reef, as will be seen below.

La Bayonnaisc Island is one of those difficulties. It was seen by Captain
Jurien de la Graviere, in the French corvette La Bayonnaise, on May 31,
1850, fixing the position as lat. 32" 0' 41 ' N., long. 130" 59' 20" W., or eight
miles North of the Koerieis position of the island above mentioned. But
the descriptions of each accord exactly. The French account is tliat it is a
low, lurking curvilinear reef, under 400 feet in extent, with a few peaked
rocks at its North end. The highest hummock is at the North end, and not
more than 20 feet high. There are throe pinnacles, and when seen from tho
South, the North rock seems as a column.

On August 18, 18.)2, Captain Drescher, of the Hamburg barque Walt&r,
saw tn island at noon, which coincides in position with South Island. At 5
p.m. he saw a cluster which resembled those soon in La lioyounaise, but
which he'places 6| miles to the N.W. C>n April 2nd, 1856, tho barque Live
Yatih.' passed this neighbourhood. A confused report from the commander,
Captain Grove, states that he saw a duster of rocks, the highest about 40
feet high, between the latitudes of the rocks seeu in the A'ofritr and Li
Bayotuiaise. Another island was seen to the northward, and ako South

6;]()

V(JLCAN1C ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAl'AN.
Thi«, if correct. wouW settle the question as to there being two

Island.

'Itt'Lh to be de,i,.a tlmt these .0*. .ho»ld be properl, .urveyed a.d

"'smra KlS ,h,»e.. .0 th, »u,l,w„d, «. reported by C,p„a.
s.!i!^^^™th C from W.an,po. .,, S.n F,a„eU«,. I. w» 6,^ .e.„ ...

18 Hi a boat was sent alongside during a calm, lat. 31 U , Long. i

o an Idle shape, and probably 300 feet high, but not more than 250

et n diameter at the base. (This has a suspicious re.omblanco to St^

iCs Eock.) It is sv^rounded by smaller peaks beneath the surface, but

''Z!^:^:ZZ:!:1 doubt .. . ■.. ,..^., there can be no ,^stion
of its ex stenee; for Captain John K. Stickney. of the American bar,ue
1 riF^rater seeing I'ondidin Island, saw this rock, which ho de-
isarait ;»fl?r<«, u'^c b xnW i N. 8 or 9 leagues

Hcribes as resembling a ship under sail, and ^.N.NN • ^ f- ^

from the former. At a short distance East of it was a rock, on .hich the

' m'i:^;!^ .iv- by 1I.M.S. 7V/.<.., .hich pas,ed it January 18, 1859
is tat 18 N., long 139^ oO' E., a high pinr,acle-looking rock, about

Le tqu arte s of a mile in circumference, with lu.avy breakers extending
Ipprrently a quarter of a mile Irom it. and a snail rock close-to on the

"^t:^- i... is prob.bly .he same It is merely -ted by Mmiral
Krusenstern and Mr. Reynolac t. bn in lat. 31^ 30' N., long. 140 L., and
1 al! rated report by the ship morican, Sept. 3i-d 1852 refers most
hkely to the same. To.lo. lo. Santos and San To.a, of the old charts, may refer

"p::;;d;;;^^;:;d was discovered m I82O. by tl. Eussian Uea^na^c.

that name, in lat. 30 20' N., long. HO^ 6'. He gave the name of Ihree Hdl,

or T/nre JIuMMock Mand, t • it.

ST PETER'S or BLACK ROCK, perhaps Lot's Wife,-ln 1821. Lieut.
rovalichin, of the llussian navy, discovered a rock of the form of a trun-
cated cone, in lat. 30^ 31 . Krusenstern thought it to be the same as Pona-

. Besides the notifCB above ciU-d. there are many others which it is .Imost <^-^^f-j:^^
U. on!o Cher of these groups, if thei-c be more than on. Ottho.e the .VvM /^o. o M.
Dob"ll- San.Valeo /,, W of the old ch,u-t« ; tl.e i.land .ecn by C.rta.n Moor; CoU o
^M^f-i^o Flar,. i.W., .eon by Captain W. .1. Rogers, Veo. 7. ISol ; and several

more which ueid no further notice. . , c * o'l^l

tlte is n^uch doubt as to thiB position, for Admiral Krusenstern-s .rack. . opt 23rd
isk parses . loso to it. In Mr. Ueynolds memoir two other rocks arc reported at .- and
7J miles respectively, du.; West of it.

PAN.

there being two

erly surveyed and

sorted by Captain
t was first seen in
age, in December,
2', long. 139° 5o'.
not more than 250
■etiomblanco to St.
h the surface, but

can be no question
) American barque
ock, which ho de-
N. 8 or 9 loagiies
k, on which the sea

t January 18, 18.59,
ooking rock, about
breakers extending
•ock close-to on the

stated by Admiral
ong. 140' 0' E., and
rd, 1852, refers most
old charts, may refer

Russian lieutenant of

1 name of Three Sill,

fe,_lii 1821, Lieut,
the form of a trun-
be the same as Pona-

it is iilmost certain refer
330 the S>ili)h Rock of Mr.
L'lilitiiiii Moor; Clerk's or
'a I.. 7, IHol ; and several

ustern'n track, Soitt. 23rd,
:l;s arc rcporlod ul 'I'l and

ST. PETER'S OR BLArK ROriv.

fill

fidin discovered, but the descriptions do not agree. In 185;{, Captain A.
Somorby. commanding the American banjue hahelita Ifi/iii; discovered an
island or rock, of verj singular form, in lat. 29° 12', long. 140^ 1,V. It is
about 200 feet high, and 100 feet in diameter, with quite perpendicular sides.
lie run within 3 miles of it, no bottom.' It looks black, having the appearance
of a bottle. Ho called it Black Ruck, t-nd considered it to be very dangerous,
for if struik by a vessel there is little chance of getting on the rock ; and, if
gained, not a vestige of vegetation on it. It has a little lean to the West,
bearing North. His observations were good both for clironometor and
latitude. (From the description this must be the same as that discovered by
the Russian officer above mentioned.) It was also seen by the Li)i(la, in
1851, by which it is placed in lat. 29' 42', long. 140" .31' E., and was thought
to be like a ship.

It was seen by the ships Muccdutiia and rinrcinics, of the U.S. Noitli
Pacific Surveying Expedition, and is placed by the former vessel in 29° 47' N.,
long. HO-* 22' 30', which must be talc'Mi as correct. Its altitude was calcu-
lated to be 299 feet, and its base 40 feet.

This very extraordinary rock, unlike almost every otlier known isolated
poak, is thus correctly pliieed on the chart, but it has been, and perhaps still
is, the subject of much doubt.

Captain John Moares, well known in the history of early discoveries in the
North Paciiic. passed.this, or a similar rock, when in eoniTiiand of tho Felice,
April 9th, 1788. Like most others who first saw it, he took it for a ship—
a fu-st-rate man-of-war, under a crowd of sail. " It obtained the name of
Lot's Wife, and is one of the most wonderful objects, taken in all its circum-
stances, wliich I ever beheld. The waves broke against its rugged front
with a fury proportioned to tho immense distance they had to roll before
they were interrupted by it. It rose almost perpendicular to the height of
near 350 feet. A smaU black rock appeared just above tho water at about
40 or 50 yards from its western edge. There was a cavern on its S.E. side,
iutowhicii the waters rolled with an awful and tremendous noise."-(Mcare8,
p. 97.)

Its position, as stated by Meares, was 29" 50', long. 142" 2S', or about 105
miles eastward of that assigned to the St. Peter's Rock. This would cer-
tainly not be too miu'h to aUow for tho strong tuisterly drift, unsuspected by
Meares; but a singular and inexplicable diihn-enco is shown in Moares's
diart, which places Lot's Wife in long. 15G" 0' E., or loj degrees to the
eastward. This position is not at aU borne otit by the text, which describes
his passing.islands and land, which can hold no relation to it ; and therefore,
at present, it nwst be taken as erroneous.

It may, therefore, be wmsidered that this volcanic mass, Lot's Wife, is
identical with St. Peter's Island, imtil it is disproved. It is also the same

g3o THE fiULF OF YEDO.

as'the ir.,^tad- of Krusenstern, ani p.^Hibly the Rua He Oro of the old

"Te continuation of thi« line of volcanic eruptive rocks, through the
Volcano, and Bonin Islands, &... will be de«cnbed hereafter.

THE GULF OF YEDO.
The GULF of YEDO, connected with Yedo Bay by the Uraga channel is
Jndedon the West by the mountainous V^^^^ ^^ ^<^ ^^^^^

,. the southward . <^;^::tir^zr::^ ^^^^■
l^ z :^:tz::^ ^^^ -tures being high, rocl., and

even halg near Simoda a few sandy beaches. Between Sunoda and
rl' sak the coast is bold of approach. Over it, the .nountam A.a,.y^
^ to 4.700 feet, and on the north-east ridge is a conspicuous dome-

^';C?f1 saki the coast trends more to the northward, forming a slight
l.«nd to Fnku-nra where it becomes more broken, but maintams is bold
laturts :^ a lower range, the two highest points of which are elevated
2 970 and 2,466 feet; under the latter is a round hiU with a large quarry
focngthetilf. Fr<;m these hills the long low promonto,^ oj Manatsuru,
bo der d b^y vertical cliffs, stretches to the eastward, and off xts extreme
poLt a rock 20 feet high. On its West side is the open bay of Fuku-ux.^
non-et surveyed. From thence the coast assumes a lower elevation, and
";u!i; bending round to the eastward forms the -^^^^ ^
Odawara To the northward of Futo sak, are some smal islands tht
^atglst of which, m .i.a, 120 feet high, is about 3* -lies «ff shoi.^
W by N. from this island is the small bay of Ajiro. The position o tin.
bay is more to the northward than that assigned to it on the chart, it may
be distinguished by a small white cliff to the northward ; the water in th
bay is deep, there being no bottom at 20 fathoms at the entrance ; a na ur|d
breakwater forms a shelter for small vessels, but the water is deep w.thm
it therebeing from 13 to 5 fathoms.

The Bay of Odawara, from the lowness of the land at its head, has been

(when the charts were in error) mistaken by strangers ^^^ th^U-g^^™ '

L occasionally at night by the more familiar navigator. When past Jr. s

Island, however, the channel will be recognised by Su sak., its East point of

ntrane, being Comparatively high (645 feet), whereas Cape Saganu Uie

othern pai. of the peninsula of that n^e on ^^^ ^^^^ -'^^'j^^JZ
is not more than 70 feet high, with the exception oi a smaU h^ll of 200 teet
elevation on the centre of its South part, named Tree Saddle, from two con-
Ipi"! clumps of large trees on its summit. The Ji..l ligkt on Nosima
Point will indicate it by night.

r-AI'E IDSU.

6;$.'.

de Oro of tlie old

ocks, through the
fter.

Uraga channel, is
)f Idsu (terminated
lich is 52 miles dis-
st rounds in a N.E.
ig high, rocky, and
otween Simoda and
lountain Amagi yama
conspicuous donie-

rd, forming a slight
t maintains its bold
f which are elevated
with a largo quarry
ontory of Manatmru,
, and off its extreme
pen bay of Fuku-ura,
lower elevation, and
le treacherous Bay of
me small islands, the
t 3i miles off shore.
The position of this
t on the chart, it may
rard ; the water in the
he entrance ; a natural
) water is deep within

i at its head, has been
3 for the Uraga channel,
itor. When past Vries
?«< mki, its East point of
reas Cape Sagami, the
West side of entrance,
a sraaU hill of 200 feet
30 Saddle, from two con-
e fixed light on Nosima

Tlie peninsula of Awa, althougli mountainous, is less so than Idsii, and
piissesses much larger tracts of arable land, all of which is carefully culti-
vated. Its West coast is more siniuuis than the opposite shore of the gull,
but only one of the bays, Tatiyamti, fornu'd in it, all'ords fair anchorag''-
Numerous small off-lyiug rocks stud the coast from 8ii saki as far north-
ward as Kaiuiya ])oiut, the outer of which is the Ghibu-m or Bhuk
Roi-k, about 20 feet high, lying N. by W. li miles of Daibo point and a
mile off shore. To the .-loutli-cast of it are several small rocks which only
uncover at low water. KaiMija Point bears nearly P>ast of the Tree
Saddle on Sagami Peninsula, and is at the tennination of the sharp well
defined ridge of the Miogani yanm, the fine dome-shaped mountain, ele-
vated 1,096 feet. AVitli the excejition of some few of those rocks most
of them show •'bove water, and no danger is at present known to be a
greater distance than a mile oif shore.

To the northward of these hills the country (Kadsusa) becomes much
lower, and a few miles north-eastward of Futsu saki, the point oil which
runs the Saratoga spit, it becomes an uninteresting dead flat, encircling the
head of Yedo Bay.

CAFE IDSU, or Iro-O Saki, a fine bold rocky headland which cannot be
mistaken, is the southern extremity of the mountainous peninsula of Idsu.
It will be recognized by a conspicuous white cliff, 3 J miles to the N.W. of
it, and a conical rocky peak a few miles farther in the same direction, form-
ing the south-western extreme of the peninsula. The summit of Cape Idsu is a
hill 230 feet high, which falls into two small ridges to the sea. There is
an islet 50 feet' high a quarter of a mile ofl' the shore, one mile West of the
cape.

BOCK ISLAND Lighthouse. — Eock Island, or Mikomoto, is about 120 feet
high, and a third of a mile in length, with precipitous shores and an uneven
outline, bears E. by S. \ S. about 5 miles from Cape Idsu. A lighthouse
was completed on it in 1870. It shows a hriyht fixed light (temporary) at
80 feet, visible 14 mUes off. Lat. 34° 34' 20" N., long. 138" o7' 10' E.

Between this rock and the main land are the Ucona and four other rocks,
among which the junks freely pass ; but a vessel should not attempt to run
inside Eock Island at night. The tides also are uncertain, the north-easterly
current, which ia not to be relied upon, running sometimes 3 to 4 knots
per hour ; at other times regular tides have been observed, the flood setting
W.S.W., the ebb E.N.E., H miles per hour. The channel between Eock
Island and Ucona Pcckn carries irregular soundings of 9 and 14 to 30 fathoms.
Ucona Bocks, two in number, though they generally appear as one, bear
N. by W., distant 2 miles irmw Eock Island ; the largest is about 70 feet
high. Four other rocks occupy a triangular space of a mile from W.S.W.
to N.N.W. of the Ucona. The northern and southern of these are small
ledges nearly awash. A reef also extends 3^ cables towards them from To-

r)84

THE OITLF OF Y¥A)0.

There is dcop water between all

luulgi Point to the N.W. of the Ucona.

these rocks. ^ , . , c ja„„

SIMODA HARBOUR* is on the eastern side of the peninsula of Idsn,
6 miles N.E. of the cape. To the northward of the harbour a h.gh r.dgo
intorsects the peninsula; and South of this, all the way to the capo, it is
broken by innumerable pf.ks of less elevation. •„ • „ w^n

Vandaia Bluif\ the East point of entrance to the harbour will .known
by a grove of pine trees on the summit of the bluiT and the village of
sl./.rwhich is about a third of the way between it and Cape Diamond.

Cape Diamond, or Sum.ji Sa^-I, is U miles eastward of the entrance,
and immediately off it is a rocky i«lot, and northward of it the bay of .S..-
I,... which, as it has several sand beaches, may be mistaken ^.r bi.o a
larl our ; but on approaching this. Cape Diamond will shut in Cape Idsu
he Ucona Kocks, and Rock Island to the southward wlnl.t in himoda road
they are visible from all points. TL-e town of Simoda stands on the West
shore of the harbour, and Ju.ki.al.1 village on the East. There is good land-
i„g for boats in Simoda creek, and also at the village. „ , ^ ,

Simoda (which means " low field ") was the port selected, with Ilakodade
at the South end of Yeso, as the first treaty ports by the American Expedi-
tion- and is, therefore, of much interest to the commercial world The
t eaty was s/gned, as is well known, on March 31st, 1854 The firs v.ssel
hich took advantage of the treaty was the A. .arican schooner C. L. /.^.
fitted out by Messrs. Reed and Dougherty, who came to lakodadc on lob.
1 3th, 1 855. and then took the crew of the Russian frigate JJ.ana Irom Simoda

to retropaulovski.t . , , i u tv

Centre Island, lying nearly in the middle of Snnoda harbour, bears N.
. E ; mlTti Rock Island, and N. by E. i E. 3.i miles from the
Ucona Rocks. It is high, conical, covered with trees, and a cave passes

entirely through it. „ t , i • v, ,.f

Buisaco Islet, a quarter of a mile N.N.E. from Centre Island, is about
40 feet high, and covered with tr.es and shrubs.

Southampton and Supply Rocks.-There are but two bidden dangers in
Simoda Harbour; the first is Southampton Rock, which is in -^f^^-^-^^^'
S bv E I E 2 cables from the South point of Centre Island, and N. i AV.
ironi Vandalia Bluff, about three-fourths of the way between it and Centre
Island • it is about 25 feet in diameter, has 2 fathoms water on it. and has
been marked bv a white spar buoy. The other is the Supply Rock, lying

. The harbour wa8 surveyed in 1854 by the officers under Commodore Pony. U.S.N.,
.nd the directions which follow arc based upon those drawn up by Lieutenant \Vm. L.

SUmry, U.S.N.
t Sec Commodoic IVrry's '•Narrative,- pages I-IO, io.i, A:c.

8IM0])A IIAIiliOUK.

(;;i

irater between nil

oninaiila of Idflii,
bour a high rid^;o
to the capo, it is

>ur, will bo known
ind the villaf^e of
vupe Diamond.
[ of the entrance,
t the bay of Sini-
staken for Simoda
liut in Cape Idwu,
ilst in Simoda road
auds on the West
riiore is good land-
ed, with Ilakodade
) American Expedi-
lercial world The
1. The first vessel
jhooner C. E. Fouie,
Ilakodade on Feb.
) Diana I'rom Simoda

a harbour, bears N.

3.} miles from the

, and a cave passes

tro Island, is about

hidden dangers in
a is in mid-channel,
[sland, and N. i W.
atwoen it and Centre
vrater on it, and has
iSupply Hock, lying

immoJoro Terry, U.S.N.,
by Licuteiiiuit NVm. L.

South by West a short distance from Luiaaco or Misana Islet. It is a
.sharp rock, with 11 feet of water on it, and has been marked by a icU
s-par-biioy.

In the outer road, or mouth of the harbour, a disagreeable swell is
somctimeH experienced ; but int-ido Southampton Kock and Centre Island,
vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth. Moor with
open hawse to the S.W.

When this harbour was surveyed in 1853 — .)4, the bottom throughout was
mud; but a fi'W months »ub.';e(iuently the harbour was scoured (mt to its
granite foundations by the back sweep of throe huge waves which in succes-
sion rose over the tops of the highest trees, and left the bay neai'ly empty.
Large junks wore thrown some distance inland, and tlie litissian frigate
Didiia 1 )it all but a total wreck.* It has never since afforded good holding
ground in the event of a storm, but it was always an unsafe and exposed bay
when the anchorage ground was tolerable, being open to South and S.S.W.,
the direction from which the heaviest winds tdow.

The town was being rebuilt when it was visited by Captain Sherard Osborn,
K.N., four years after, and his " Cruise in Japanese Waters," p. ;i92, gives
a pleasant account of the place.

It is high water, full and change, in Simoda Harbour, at o'' 0"' ; extreme
rise of tide, 5 ft. 7 in. ; moan rise, 3 ft.

DIRECTIONS. — In navigating the south-eastern coast of Japan, after
passing Ctipo Chichakolf, in Van Diomen Strait, if the weather bo thick,
the vessel's position should be well ascertained before she is hauled to the
E.N.E., as her course is parallel to the high land for about 20 miles from
the pitch of the capo. It should also bo borne ia mind that, as far as our
knowledge extends, the current on this coast generally runs to the E.N.E. at
the rate of 40 miles a day ; it may, however, be entirely checked for twenty-
fuur hours by a N.E. wind, when it may bo again expected to resume

* The tromindous convulsion here alluded to is ono of the most romarkablo on record.
Admiral Count Pontiatine has given ii brief statement of its ciTect on the Diana. On Dec.
23rd, 1854, at 9| a.m., without any previous indication, the shock of an earthquake oceurred,
which Listed two or three minutes, shaking the vessel very much. At 10'' a huge wave
entered the bay, and, rushing on the shore, washed nearly every building in Simoda away.
A second wave rushed in five minutes afterwards, and at lOj'' a third wave left only sixteen
out of ono thousand houses standing. From 10|i' till noon th» water sunk and rose so cx-
tiuordinarily tliat the depth varied from 8 feet to 40 feet depth at her moorings, and she
was Hung about and tui-ned no less than 43 times round her anchor in thirty minutes. After
this the agitation diminished, but continued for some hours. The Diana was much injured,
and her crew, on January 18th, were compelled to leave her. .She was taken in tow by 100
junkrt to carry her into the bay, but after proceeding a few miles, a small white ckud ap-
peared, on perceiving which the Japanese fled panic stricken, and east her ailrift. In a
very short time a violent storm arose, in which she loimdercd. The waves which were raised
reached the Coast of California a few hours after, and were registered then.

THE GTILF OV YEDO.

•1 iv v.n vith un-eater rapidity than usual for ono
its former coui:8e, and posmbly ruu v itli feiea i

,ho„ld k«r .ot„o,c U,»n .TO ™.1« ;" *; »;7jr„ „,» to avoid bein«
„^, K, verify ftoi, recta.ng by ■■.t''"'"^ *3\^,„ .pp„.„„i„g O.p.

y.™.,.W.y.«.l.y--''*«;""7tT.^^ 'alo. fail .0 b. "'
diiTerenlin fam torn any "tbo' aad ■■■ '» ''"'"^ !„„„„ „eatb«

g„.t servlc, in di«,.«„g ve-. «f "'^,^™ttb,^t.l>.e..»at,i, vi.ib,„
I i, U,e fir.. ai.»a. laad ...n, and «»"»* ^ *;^„° ^j.^ „ .^.n bearing
at .imea npw.rd. of .00 m.le.. ^'''P' """ ".'^..""^a „.a„.™nr io n,.k.,

North. When b, d fro,.*. "•*7^, .^ Z lain of i..a„d. off tiu,

Cape Id«, and if the weather s at »"'.'"■• ..t;, ft, We.t

Jret Yodo.i.Ut.he«.et..eWfa™l -W^^__ ^^^ ^^^^ ^,,„^ .,„

peint of entrance t« bnruga Oulf, '-"■'°« " ^ yy ,,i,h oci.a.ion.l

Ur bein. ,ow, .ith a ....dy be.^b and Jow .and ^__^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^ ^

patcheB of tree, and the eoast i. .aio 1 .^^ ^^^^j^,;

U .0 the ....ward : who«,>. *»7; „'' t,:;,„V ,1„ .he weather

re::'^::^::-. ^i^ - 4 - «« i.a„d ar,

""^intendin, to anchor at Bin,oda, p... K„. .-a. a n,i^ when .,
harbour .ill be in fnU view to the 'r'^'^^'^J^Jn^. but no «.n„d.
. „..e. will prebally P^ ^^^ ,'e.dul near the entrance, when the

xL":^'rrra::ra:n:rw':;t » .h. .ind . ^.., .awy

..dalwayabaflUng. ^, ^„,„,a, . ,e»el can p.» on either »ide

Approaching from the KK-ea.tw«;^^ ^ ^^^^^^^ ^.^^^,

„, Vri» idand, from *= »-*•;; ^Z„^ .,„„. •„ mile.. Between
certain, and .trong near the coa.t.

. „ , „„„„„ac. te »* -. — i. - ^ -»' "' »""- '" '" "" *"

nel, whenever practieablo.

ODAWAKA BAY.

687

lan usual for ono

r this current, and
enabled, if nenes-

ilao to avoid beini;
approaching Cape

coast. In the sum-

,d in the vicinity of

li'h mountain Fu8i
Det oleviition, and so
•annot fail to be of
io. In clear weather
rth-eastward, visibl''
with it -when bearinj,'
•d endeavour to niako
,iu of islandu off the
Omae saki, the West
1 for Cape Idsu, the
hills, with occasional
character for 30 or 40
rocky, and its summit
)W, unless the weather
and Vries island are

. at a mile, when the
ling in from this island
Ido rips, but no sound-
the entrance, when the
be from the northward,
larbour until it lulls or
wind is usually flawy

can pass on either side
>f which, Cape Diamond
,ut 21 miles. Between
,ut the currents are uu-

SLould Vries bo obscured by thick wcathtT, before roaching Capo Diamond*
oudoavour to sight Rock island, for tliero are no conspicuous objt-cts on the
main land by which a stranger can rocogni/o the harbour at a distance, and
the shore appears as ono unbroken lino, To tho westward of the harbour
there are several ^and beaches, and throe or four sand banks ; these can be
phiinly discerned when within or 8 miles, and are good landmarks. Otf
the village of Susaki, at a third of a mile from tho shore, is a ledge of rocks
upon which the surf is always breaking. Give thom a berth of 2 cabloa
in passing.

Approaching Simoda from the south-east pass westward of Kosu Sima,
from which tho harbour bears N. by TV. J W. distant about 27 miles,

From Cape Diamond tho eastern coast of the Idsu Deninsula trends to
N.N.E. for 20 miles, and then recedes slightly to tho westward, forming a
bay, at the head of which is Atami, a place passed by Sir Rutherford Alcock.
in his journey from Yodo to Fusiyama. At Atami is a hot sulphur spring.
From a vont, about six times a day, an immense column of steam and hot
water is ejected. These baths are frequented by the Japanese, and there is
a small village of 200 or 300 houses. The head of tho great bight is formed
by low land, and called Odawara Bay. Around the head of this bay the
railroad, which is proposed to connect Yedowith Oosaka, will pass.

ODAWARA BAY.— Care must be observed when steering for the TJraga
Cliannel not to be drawn into this bay, as a considerable indraught has
always been experienced, and the low land at the head of the bay
contrasted with the high land to the westward of it, looks so distant, that
the bay has often been mistaken for the channel, and the error only dis-
covered when deeply embayed, and probably close to some of the reefs which
skirt the head and East side of the bay, the most dangerous of which is the

Macedonia Eeef.

This indraught considerably increases the difficulties experienced by a
sailing ship in extricating herself from the dangers on the East side of the
bay with a southerly wind, especially should it fall light.

Ino Sima, 220 feet high, is the eastern extreme of the low shore fronting
the plain at the head of Odawara Bay, which is said to be very shallow,
although there are 56 fathoms at 4 miles distance. A large reef, marked by
a peaked rock, 30 feet high, was seen breaking heavily off the beach, 2
miles to the West of Ino sima. Ino sima has bold high cUffa of a light
colour, which makes it very conspicuous, and a flattish summit with a few
large trees. On the 8.E. it cannot be approached within three-quarters of
a mile, as an extensive reef skirts that part of the island. The island is

L ot tntrancc to the Kii Chan-

• Commander C. Bullock, R.N., observed, October 6th, 1866, some submarine jets, ap-
parently of steam, about 10 miles N.E. of Cape Diamond, and 2 miles off the land.

pnrt of the bay. . 21 milos East of I no

.„„ „„V ...„„„,.. ,. n. N;;-;;;- : ■— :i ,,„. .„„,. ,. m, „r

Horino.at«-m»ra >»? -""">' ,|,„^„„.,„.i.„„,„ li,,v, lh« bay n.-x.

".t ::a ::;;:V:;r C;^" i'..^^. >» - -- — >■ -"-■

thouRh exposed to W. ond.S. W. winds. imporieuso

, .e, 3 ea.le.^0,. extendi ^ a .w po.t . tl. fo ^^^^^^^ I ^^^^ ^^^

Bluff. To the N.W. of this a ham ^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^

lowpointiustNorthof theU H.^^^- e^^^ P^^^^ ^^^^ .^ ^^^.^ ,.„.,„, ,,,

rZ: Tit i;::l:i /..» anchored he., the line of roc.s .uite break-
ing the heavy swell from the South^ ^ ^^ ^ ^.j^^
Macedonian Reef hes off tke En, ''J ^ it dries in many

places at low tide, and, except m ^^^^ .^ ^^ ^^.^^ . ^^,^

by a brealcer when covered and - ^he-Jo^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^^, ^,f g, ,,

if it be not visible, do not brmg the l'g»'«^r,.,° 70O feet high, North of
, ,. til the south end of - ^^^ f S^l';— ^te;minate in

?'^^"'TBlurM)^f oUigh woodrd, and very conspicuous. By Keeping
laiperieuse Bluff, oKieetg, ^.^ ^^^ three-quarters of a

the West slope of the blutt jn. uy xi. .*
mile outside the reef in 30 fathoms. Macedonian

ABTWA BAY —Vessels embarrassed in tlie vicinity 01 i.

ASINA BAX . e^ ^^.^^ jj j^ 4 t„

Eeef may find an anchorage -^;"* \^ J^^ ^^^^ ,,, p,i,ts except wcst-
8 fathoms, good holding-ground, -^^^^^^J J^, ,/^.ies ; but only a
.ard, in which direction the «- 7 ^ ^^ ^^J ^ ^^ ° „,;,g it. There are
r::ro;\rS:rr. rt: l tly show^. and are easi.

-ti^z^zt.^^^ — t:- :::--

.a iun.s 0-- -est sl^ of^ a^^^^^^^^^^ -^ ,^,, ,

„, ™.H which ...cod off *«.f»%tr.1Jre'f off the North'point ot
■'""' '' "°v wS :,.; ^hL wa^ o„ ., ..etehe. half ac™. .he

TATIYAMA HAY-iniAdA (MIANNIX.

(i;i',)

latp, l>y ii narrow
twiird of which a
\in(l swell at thiw

inilos East of Ino
und are a gviido to

■hlto cliff'* is full of
Buy, tho bay next
iporary anchorage,

foot of IniporieuBO
woHtward from the
ese is marked by a

is very fi'uall, but
I anchorage in 4 to H
f rocks nuito breiik-

ra Bay, at 4 miles
a. It dries in many
ilways betrays itself
led in day-time ; but
southward of S.S.E.
I feet high. North of
ninsula terminate in
picuoUB. By keeping
IS three-quarters of a

V of the Macedonian
in Asina Bay, in 4 to
ill points except wcst-
20 miles ; but only a
using it. There are
1 show, and are easily

havens for small craft
} the southward of the
2 miles North of Joka
the Moroisi, a long reef
W. of the lighthouse,
off the North point of
Tctches half across the
h shore. Further in a

IxTili marks the end of tlu' shoal fronitlm 8outh shore. Insido liiis issoiiiro
iiuchoriij;!' fur a suuill vcssi'l in 'A fathoms.

8U SAKI, on the Kast sido of tho entrance of the (lulfof VcJo, wlitiii
seen from the southward appoars as a block of suiiill hills, rullior conii al in
profile, the highest, J/nzama, being oloyatt'd (').■)() foot. Tho point is low,
with tho exception of a small elevation, at tho N. \V. corner, on which is an
old fort. There is a hoavy tide rip elf it, but no dangers at a greater dis-
tance than half a niilo from tho shore, and the point may bo safely rounded
at a luilo.

N08IMA POINT and LIGHT.— Tho southern cxtromity of tho eastern
promontory of Yodo (iulf is Noaima. To tho West of it is Me/a J'oint, from
which tho dangerous Mflu /.(y/i/*' extends for li mile, and b(<yond this is a
rocky bank, stretching 3 miles further. Over these a heavy sea rolls at
times.

The Lighthouse is deserving of especial notice, as being one of the first
of its kind erected on Euroiieau principles in Japan, the other being on the
opposite point of Kanon-saki. It is an octagonal white tower, which shows
a brilliant /.f erf light, from a first-order lens apparatus, elevated I'M ft. above
high water, and visible 20 miles off.

TATIYAMA BAY.— Tho coast from Su saki doubles back abruptly to
tho eastward 4 or 5 miles before taking its northerly trend, forming, with
Daibo saki, tho point next North of Su saki, tho Bay of Tatiyama, in which
shelter and good holding-ground may be found in southerly and easterly
gales, but it is quite exposed to the westward.

The best position to anchor is in about 7 fathoms, a quarter of a mile
eastward of Taka sima, the easternmost of the two small but well wooded
islands on the South sido of the bay, with tho West extreme of Daibo saki
N.N.W. i W., and Siro yama, a hill 290 feet high, S.S.E. J E. This hill is
remarkable from having a clump on it, and being the Nortli extreme of some
rising ground in tho S.E. corner of tho bay. This position is well sheltered
from North round East to W. by S., but should there be any appearance of
the wind veering westward, an early departure is recommended, as a heavy
sea quickly tumbles in.

The ActteoH obtained fish and fowls in small quantities. Water was
brought off in boats by the villagers residing at a hamlet situated at the base
of Siro yama.

URAOA CHANNEL, connecting the gulf with the bay of Yedo, appears
remarkably clear of hidden danger. On its West side are the Plymouth
Koch, which are always uncovered and easily seen. There are some sunken
rocks close around them.* A shoal of 2 fathoms water is said tf> lie at a

• Uraga or KcccptioH Bay, on the western sido of the entranoe, within tho rijmouth
li'icks, is remarkable as the place where the Ameriean squadron lirst had eonununiea-

YEDO BAY.

,„„„,e,l by C„mm«ua..r It. A. H-H'y. " ^ j, , e., tbo

„„ i,, from «hieh .b,. F.«h. .x.r,.,„„ «1 -';-* ';y ^ /„„,, ,„. „,.

„„t bringing tbo l'lyn."»th "ock. -"IbwoMl of H„ .« . 1
,nki liuUthouse bonr. N.N.W. ^j j^^^ ,,„,

ligM.-A li«b. bn. .l-y 'jXt p., nt H milo. .e.t».ra of

;:: r::;;- .!.::.: boin. .in„.,y . «.. ««■ >» - -.»» *»-. - ■»-*

,.„„M„„ce a. .0 di.«noo .bonld no. bo ,laco4 -I"" J ■ ,,,„ „

VEKO BAY i, ab^t -^. ^ IZZ^X'^lv^^'^' «' •^*'-'
il« bro«<lo.t part, w.th exjll.nt g B .„,„i„ti„n ba» boen found in it,

„,.oi,t the mars n .f b. bank a ,,„, „„„ ug^ „.,„,

'" t„t:»' Bolt no v^^^^^^^^^^^^ "'■™ " ■" '"^ "«"-'° \' r

mark, and oil Beacon ■ ora. „_,:.. The .SVr«(«.»» S;,.(, extending

f„l lead, however, wll give ample "«™J;^ _, „.,„i„„ ;. „„»..

„ry when pacing .t. Tb" •?■' « j,, g„„,t ,ide ha. not

point, on which are *";/»■;; ^t'^^fM^Jateep" to thebank on that
;::'" ^:rlr;h«; irchlwiow waJroffiU ex.ren.0 end, genoraUy

in tho d»«i. _'er. ^j,,„„„, ^ Tedo Bay i.

KASOH 8Aix Ltgh .-Th^Weat^P ^^^^ .„^,,, .„ „„ „,k..,„p„..

Kanon saki. On it is a squa fourth-order lens appara-

dwelling, which ■''-;';^f ,-^'1 f ;:: H »ilo. o«. It is viaibl.

.,„. I"';«l""'<'"V'!^:^"'\„N28-W.b,theEa.t. Ih.PlymontU
between the bearnfis of S. 30 w.iori.'

Eocke boar S. by W i'^- ,„ „„„„ shore. «»}«»-

Th, principal .r^*or.g» « Y d„ Bay a^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^ .^

*c::L!:;lwf '^and ro«k.. it cannot be r.»a..nended. i..»«<»

"^ . „„.,<.rnr Tiilv 14 1853, which led to the treatios

cClodore M. C. Perry, U.S.N.. 1866. pp. 26G-303.

11 -i
m

Yt»KOlIAMA-KANA(iAW\.

•-.II

Imt itn poHvtion and

I bear thin in mind.
,t nearly a niilo from
)d l)KrtU in pllHH:n^!;•
„■/•, nuni.^l iiftor tlio
LiHtonci'. It wiis I'X-
;]\i> fmmd (inly 10 i't.
rn N. by E. J E., tlio
. J N., and the Ply-
ile on Ht ward of it by

4 W., until KauDU

)8t end of Joka simn,
3 J niiln« westward of
noes it may be visiblo

II open shed, too much

ition, 20 mileH wide at
I capable of sbelterinK
ti has been found in it,
8 its shores, and which,
miloH from high water
H very steep-to ; a caro-
tratona Spit, extending
great caution is neces-
Futsu saki, a low sandy
Its South side has not
eper to the bank on that
J extreme end, generally

mtrance to Yedo Bay is
ed to the light-keeper's
ourth-order lens appara-
miles off. It is visible
he East. The Plymouth

I western shore. Susqw-
well sheltered, but as it
recommended. Fowhattan

)53, which led to the treaties
the American Squadron, under

Jlny, at TiJ milos N.W. by W. of Kamm saki. Jiuh g(n»(l nnchornffo in to 7
fathoms, ami near it aro two snug covos in whif h vessels may i onveniently
repair and rofit. Amn-ivnn J>i,/i'>nt!je has depth-* of 8 to 10 fiithoniH, with
Terry Island bearing S.^.E., and WebnU , Island S.W. by S. lloth theso
inlands are wooded.

Mississippi Ibiy, at I m\K* northward of American Aiichorngo, is well
sheltered from tlio prevailing 'v»'»«vl«. In anchoring give the sIhmo a widn
berth to avoid a shoal which extends half to threo-fiuarters of a mile from
it. IJetwoon American Anchorage and Treaty Point the semelinj^'s are irre-
gular, shoaling suddenly from 12 to .» fathoms on bankw .t hard nanil.

YOKOHAMA.- Yokohama Bay is situated to the northward of tlio "idgo
of low hills soon extending into tho bay of Yedo, at loj miles N.N.W. of
Kanon saki. This ridge terminates at tho sea in a line of blulfs, 1 J mile in
length, from 100 to 120 foot in height, and quite abrupt to tho sea, of which
the southern, Treaty Point, is of a conspicuous yoUow colour, and tho
eastern. Mandarin Ulufl", has received tiio name of Haycock from its shape.
Those blulfs, and a bank which fronts them to tho distance of throo-tniartors
of a milo, and which is rather steep-to, protects tho anchorage from south-
westerly winds, tho only ones which send any sea into the bay.

The Lightvessel is moored (1870) at tho extremity of the shoal water.
She has two ■; asts, with a ball at the foremost head. She shows a Jl.rnl ri'd
li^jht at 36 foot. From the lightvossel Treaty Point bears S.W. I S., Man-
darin P.luir, S.W. by W., and the Mouth of tho Canal W. \ N.

An iron hiioi/, with a cage, has been moorod (in 1869) in 4 fathoms on tho
northern extreme of the shullow water to tho southward of Yokohama an-
chorage, with Mandarin Blulf bearing S. by E. A E. ; Mouth of tho cunal
S.W. by S. J S. ; Centre of the English Ilotaba W. by S.

Tho best anchorage is off tho town in 4 to 6 fathoms, over sandy bottom,
with Mandarin Bluff bearing S.S.E., and tho landing jetties W.S.W.
Vessels of light draught may, if desirable, take a berth nearer the town.

KANAGAWA.— At the head of the bay, and on its North side, stands the
town of Kanagawa, one of the ports opened by treaty to foreigners ; but
this has been changed by general consent to Yokohama on tho South side,
owing to its more eligible position for business and communication; tho
water also is deeper for anchorage and more convenient for the landing of
boats and merchandise than at Kanagawa, whore it is so shallow that at low
tide tho sea retreats a considerable distance from tho shore.

Kanagawa is subject to frequent shocks of earthquakes. It is situated on

the Tokaido or imperial highway to Yedo. British subjects aro free to go

where they please within the following limits— from Kanagawa, 10 ri (20

miles) in any directicm except towards Yedo, the boundary in that direction

Mrth Pacijic. 2 r

GJ2

YEDO.

1-1 *• ,= ;«+« +1iH liav of Yedi between Kawa

being the Elver Logo, which empties into the bay

^liri:::;"!^:::— ^y- ... anaisen,.one^by a
ean::hrent.ely isolates .^ The on^^ ---^;tr^^^^^^^^
and causeway towards Kanagawa from the rear of the town on the AVe^t
and with the Yokohama Blutfs by another bridge close o the sea Ihe
residrn es of the foreign community occupy the East, and those of the Ja-
losidences oi b Two stone piers, the ends of which

i:::;t:rr. P*^- o"-»^- p^- '» ^-^ *• •- -^-^ '•^*'"

landing. ^ procured in abundance.

.pril.gTri.e 64 feet, neap, H «. With southeri, t.md. the ..de nee.

, '"Zir^tL ha, a. »..ee,y feU, hut 'W- "'-J '" *«. t^!:
of Yedo Bay, and their veloeity is much increased off Saratoga Sp,t, leny
l!la!d aBd Kanon «ki, partieularl, off the latter, round »hrch the, sweep

"'^^'n'siS in the .orth-weeteru coruer of Yedo Bay, aio-.theAor.
of which it extends, with it, suburb., for 8 m.Ies. It, aspeo « not m-
llras large stack, of timber and elevated ground conceal by t« the
w r p^ of ?he city. Five batteries also interpose between the anchorage
2 the city. These, with several otho« on the shore, have green turfed
°.,a,W. and escarps faced with stone, and are surrounded byap.hng

;,b , which is covered at high water. The suburb o fnagawa stand,
on th South of the city, where are seen the ow wooded he.ghts of Goton
vama 2 miles in extent, along the shore. Ihe landrng-place is on the ^orth
silof these, and West of the five forts, close to which i. the temple oc-

ounied by the British legation. •■ xi. ^ * i„^

This bay is so shoal all along the shore where the city stands, that at low
.ate even a ship's boat cannot approach within a mile. The best anchorage
TralaL «hip is in 5 to 6 fathoms, soft mud, good holding-ground, wi h
:^ south-win of the five forts bearing N.W. ; but recollect t1.at on this
b alg the water shoals rather suddenly from 4 to 2, fathoms. It is better
th ore, to anchor a smaller vessel on a N.TV. by N. bearing of the o t.
TI M S krious, in 1858, anchored in 15 ft. at low water, with the five fort
Wng f"orN. i W, to N.W., Beacon-house S. i W., and the peak oi

^' DSTIONS.-Approaching the Gulf of Yedo from the southward oi
westward, in clear weather, the chain of islands running southward from i
Telmi^takablgllandmarks, and Cape Idsu can scarcely be mistakn
Omae saki, the v%^ 25 miles restward ot the cape, is ow, while ho ca
11 before stated, is'Wgh, bold, and rocky. From H mile eastward of Rod

B«

DIRECTIONS.

64"/

if Yedi between Kawa

, and is environed by a
cations are by a bridge
f the town on the West,
) close to the sea. The
it, and those of the Ja-
piers, the ends of which
I the sea, afford excellent

3 procured in abundance,
'okohama Bay at 6\ and
srly winds the tide rises

r run strong in the middle
off Saratoga Spit, Perry
round which they sweep

fedo Bay, along the shore
>8. Its aspect is not im-
round conceal by far the
)Be between the anchorage
shore, have green turfed
surrounded by a piling of
iburb of Sinagawa stands
wooded heights of Goton
ding-place is on the North
,0 which is the temple oc-

;he city stands, that at low
I mile. The best anchorage
jood holding-ground, with
; but recollect that on this
;o 2 J fathoms. It is better,
by N. bearing of the fort.
mr water, with the five forts
S. i W., and the peak of

do from the southward or
running southward from it
can scarcely be mistaken,
ipe, is low, while the cape,
I li mile eastward of Rock

Island a N.E. i E. course will lead 4 miles north-wost of Vries Island,
from which position the centre of the entrance of the Uraga Channel bears
N.E. by E., di: '^ant 22 miles. Care, must, however, bo observed when
approaching Cape Sagami not to bo drawn into Odawara Bay by the in-
draught mentioned in page 637. Should Vries Island be visible this danger
is easily guarded against by not bringing tliat island eoutliwaid of S.W.
by S.

Vessels approaching the gulf from the eastward aro recommended not to
hug the shore of the South end of Awa too closely, as dangerous shoals are
known to exist in that neighbourhood. By night the fine dioptric light on
No sima will be an efficient guide, but care must be taken of the extremely
dangerous ledge (Mela Ledge), which lies IJ mile off No sima and Mela
Head, about 5 miles S.E. of Su «aki. Extending 3 miles from this ledgo in
a S.W. direction is a rocky bank in the form of a tongue, with 30 fathoms
on its outer extreme; gradually shoaling to the ledge. These dangers are
steep-to (40 fathoms) on their South side. Ileavy breakers occur in rough
weather, or when a swell rolls home, but in smooth water the rocks are not
Geen from a distance ; the water, however, is so clear, that the bottom is
visible in a considerable depth.

To avoid the Mela Lodge, and all other knoicn danger, when rounding
from the eastward, do net bring the eastern extreme of land seen to bear
eastward of E.N.E. until the extreme of Su saki bears N. by W. ; and when
rounding from the westward do not bring the extreme of Su sakj westward
of N. by W. until the eastern extreme of land is E.N.E. At night, should
the light not be seen in thick weather, soundings of 40 fathoms may be con-
sidered as indicating close proximity to these dangers.

In steering for the Uraga Channel, the Tree saddle hill on the South end
of Sagami peninsula will bo readily recognized ; and on nearing the channel
the two small Plymouth Rocks and a beacon* on them will be plainly seen on
its western side. Give these rocks and the Elmstone Rock a berth of half
a mile in passing, and after rounding Kanon saki at the same distance steer
N.N.AV., which will lead between the Saratoga Spit and some broken ground
off the small woody island Sului sima (Perry Island). Continue this course
until abreast Graham Bluff, at the South side of Mississippi Bay. From
this position the elevated ground about Mandarin Bluff, at 1 mile northward
of Treaty Point, showing to seaward in brown cliffs well wooded to the
summit, wiu be reti lily recognized, the bluff being the most eastern.

• The ueacon i» maJo of iron, and sunnountnd by a nphericnl rod painted cage, the top of
which stands ahout 23 Ijet abovo high-water level. It lies in 2 feet water at low tide, and
is distant 1 cable from the two riymouth Rocks that stand above water. Kuuon Point
Lighthouse bears from it N. 7' 46' E. ; the middle of Uki Island, S. 32° ;iO' E. ; and Ku-

nava Point, S, 60° 30' E.

2 r 2

oil YEDO BAY.

' Alter course now to North, and ubo a careful lead, not «;^-^li"g <;> ^'')
.ha' 7 fathoms when roundin. Treaty Point and Mandarin Bluff ne.her o
.hich should be approached to a less distance than a m.le. But the ext n
of the shoal water is clearly shown by the hght-vessel. The lead w.ll
1 continue a good guide, the depths gradually decreasing as the anchorage

'' A sZgthip will have to .a.e short taclcs when worlcing into Yokohama
Bay:Lwest'erly wind, asNorthof Mandarin Bluff thedeep-wat^^^^^^^^^^^^

is narrowed to 1 S mile ; the lead here, however, as xs the case round neady
the whole shores of Yedo Bay, gives fair warning.

If proceeding from Yokohama to Yedo, stand out E. by N. ^j" the hot> e
in the tree clump (of which the roof only is generally seen) of Kawa sala
TrBeact: Point bears N.N.E., when " "P ^'E. or N.E. i K a ong h
Bhore which is skirted by a shallow shelf a mile broad, and very steep at 1 o
edKe on which three beacons or large posts will be seen, takmg care not to
rise the soundings under 9 fathoms till the tree clump or house^ear
W bv N. Then hatd up N. by E. if in soundmgs under 8 fathoms or
North if over 8 fathoms, and anchor in 6 fathoms with the southern part of
fhe wooded heights of Gotenyama bearing West, and the southen. of the
five forts N.W. ; or steer in upon the latter bearmg, and anchor - a. - a-

'1;::!::;:::^:^^.,^ ^^.-With a northeny w^d a ves.1, aft.
pa ing clpe Sagami, may stand across and tack close to the opposite shore
as there are no rocks at any distance off it to thenorthward of Kanaya Point
anlto the southward of the point the dangers show If unable to fet.h
his point, it would not be prudent to stand into the bay between he poin
tZ Uki ima, a smaU rocky island 1.0 feet high to the southward as foul
ground exists there. This bay will be readily recognized from a distance,
L it is the sea-shore of a valley between the Miogani yama and bvono yama
ranges, and two small hills are in the centre of it.

In making the western board, the doubtful shoal Sou h of the Plymouth
Rol must be remembered (page 639), as well as the foul ground m Kaneda
bay The shore of Kadsusa Bay, northward of the Miogani yama range,
niay be approached by the lead, tacking in 5 fathoms.

If unable to fetch Kanon saki on the starboard board, be careful o ta.j
J t of the bearing for clearing the Elmstone Rock, page 640. Short tack,
ould bo made when to windward of Kanon saki, not slioding towards he
orposito or Kadsusa shore to loss than 9 fathoms, as the South side of the
Sara tga Bpit has not been sounded. When Periy Island (Sului sima) bears
W by S., stand no further eastward than to bring Kanon saki tobear bouth.
until I'ery Island is S.W. J W., when the spit will have been weathered,
T on. boards may now bo again u.ade, but d. not .shoal on either ta.k to less
i:n^5 h 1. nor off Yokohama Bh'F to less than 7 fathoms. There are

mma

,..A/.< "'->■'■'•*'■

EA8T COAST OF NIPON, ETC.

615

Bhoaling to less

Bluff, neither of

But tho extent

. The load will

; as the anchorage

g into Yokohama
3op-water channel
asc round nearly

N. till tho house
>n) of Kawa saki
E. 4 E. along tho
I very steep at tho
aking care not to
np or house bears
Jer 8 fiitlioms, or

southern part of
le southern of the
inch or :^ ar • •■.i-

find a vgseoI, after
the opposite shore,
i of Kanaya Point,
If unablo to fetch
between the point
southward, as foul
ed from a distance,
aa and Svono yama

;h of the Plymouth

1 ground in Kanoda
ogani yama range,

J, be careful to tac'
;e 640. Short tacks
healing towards the
le South side of tho
d (Sului sima) bears
1 saki to bear South,
ve been weathered,
un eithor tack to less
fathoms. There are

some shoal patches of 3i to 5 fathoms, sand aud mud, off the western side ..f
tho bay betwoun Perry Island aud Mississippi Bay, hut nono are l:nown at
a greater distance off than 2 miles, and thoy may be avoided by not bringing
I'erry Island eastward of South.

EAST COAST OF NIPON.
Vessels bound from tho Gulf of Yodo to tho oastorn entrance of tho strait
of Tsugar, will, after passing Su saki and Cape King (Eratutsi) exporionco
tho full force of the current setting them to the E.N.E. Tho land about
Capo King is high and wooded ; the coast iu its locality sliould bo given a
good berth, as heavy breakers were seen some distamo oil' shore.

Caution is requisite in doubling Capo Blanco, a bold chalky bluff, as tl.o
American squadron passed over the edge of a reef iu 22 fathoms wat-r
S S E., distr.nt about 5 miles from this capo, and from tho heavy overfalls,
in which tishing-boats were anchored, there must be much loss water upon
its shoalosc ]mrt. As it was near nightfall it was impossible to examine this
reof, but its position is about lat. 35^ 8' N., long. HO^^ 34' E., aud Capo
Blanco in lat. 35M3' N., long. 140^ 32i' E.*

From this cape to Tsugar Strait no dangers were seen,t nor did tho
Bouadron approach tho coast sufficiently near to test tho accura.sy of tho
charts, until arriving off Capo Nambu, the N.E. point of Nipon. From tlio
northward and eastward, at the distance of 6 or 8 miles, tho outlmo of this
point resembles the back of a sperm whale, with its head to the southward,
the Dodo Eocks, off tho point, forming tho flukes. On noaring the entrance
of tho strait, the water thermometer suddenly fell 15^ or 2(f, as the squadron
ran from the north-easterly current into the cold current sotting through tho
strait. From Capo Nambu a N.W. by W. course made good will lead to
Hakodate Head (page 647).

THE STRAIT OF TSUGAR.
The STRAIT of TSUGAR (or Sanyar), separating Nipon from Yeso
Inland, is about 40 miles in length in an E.N.E. aud W.S.W. direction and
9i miles wide at its narrowest part. The following description is by John
Richards, Master Commanding H.M.S. Saracen, who surveyed the strait m
1855 :—

. Thcso positions are .loubtful. as the unfavourable weather prevented ol)sorvalio>i« n.ur
them. They are probably or 8 miles too far eastward

t The Russian frigate Arkold reports the ex.slcnoe of a reef in lat. 30 1,> N., lo„„. 1
28 E ■ but this position n>ust be considered as doubtful, as the vessel had uo observations

tortwodays previous to seeing the reof. TU. Jl^yer ';;':-'^ ;;;'''" ^''''^V'Vl 'u v'
unusually bright n.oo„light night, and saw nothing-Edward 11. lldls, Master K.N..

ll.M S, Uiiikflyci, 18o'J.

rtHWi-i. J WJWWLfWW

646

STRAIT OF TSUGAR.

CAPE GAMAIEY or Yokoiso, nenr the N.W. roint of Nipon.— Ap-
proaching the western entrance of Tsngar Strait from the S.W., the Bittern
Rocks, described horonftor, will be seen lying W. by S. about 16 miles from
Gamaley. The land about thia cape is moderately elevated and level. The
coast between it and Oho saki, to the northward, is low and sandy. Be-
tween Sasagota Bay and Oho saki the (^oast is safe of approach, having
regular soundings, and fair anchorage in N.E. winds.

Oho Saki or Cape Qreig. is remarkable from its peculiar forji, and
being the commencement of the high land extending to lUsupi saki, which
bears from it N.N.W. I W., 8.J miles. The bay between these points,
although containing much foul ground, may be useful to a vessel not able to
get through the straight during an easterly gale. The bottom of the bay is

very foul.

TATSUPI SAKI or Cape Tsugar, the South point of western entrance to
Tsugar Strait, is a bluff, 362 feet high, i'rom whence the land rises to the
height of 2,200 feet, at the distance of 4 miles inland. A large rock, 300 ft.
high, lies 2 cables N.E. of the capo, and is connected to it by a low neck of
sand .'1 ■vo»-,8. On a N.W. and S.E. bearing this rock makes like an
island. pe is steep-to, but the strong eddies near it make it prudent

not to appro i it nearer than a mile.

Gun Cliff, at 9| miles E. by S. i S. from Tatsupi saki, is steep-to, and
has a battery of six guns on its apex, which is 200 feet high. In the bay
between these points, off the town of Jlemoya/i, about half a mile from the
shore, there is capital anchorage in 8 fathoms, indeed the best in the strait
next to Hakodadi.

From the South point of this coast a steep cliffy shore, with deep water
close to, trends 25 miles to the northward, nearly in a straight line to Toriwi
saki. The cliffs are coloured with the most brilliant and varied tints, and,
like the entire coasts of the strait, are of basaltic formation. Among the
most remarkable are the lied Cliffs, rising to the height of 1,600 feet, at 17
miles southward of Toriwi saki. At 9 miles further to the northward are
two remarkable pointed cliffs, named Double Head. Nearly 2 miles to the
S.W. of this head is a rock 42 feet high ; and North about 3 cables from this
is a rock awash at low water.

TORIWI SAKI, the northern point of Nipon, is a low tapering point, off
which, at the distance of a cable, is Low Islet or Omaski sima, 40 feet high.
The ground all around this cape and islet is very foul.* There is a tide

• It was stated that the anchorage (which was recommonded) to the N.E. of the cape
was clear of rorks, but the P. and O. Company's steam-ship Singapore, on her voyage from
Yokohama to Hakodadi, on the 20th September, 1867, struck on a rock, oflF Toriwi saki.
This rock, named the Sinrjapore Rock, is said to lie N. by E. j E., distant 2\ miles from
Low Island, or o niilos N. by K. from Toriwi saki.

8IRIYA SAKT-nAKODATE HEAD.

64:

f Nipon.— Ap-
JV., the Bittern
; 16 miles from
.nd level. The
ad sandy. Bc-
iproach, having

alior forja, and
Impi saki, which
in these points,
essel not able to
)m of the bay is

tern entrance to
land rises to the
irge ropk, 300 ft.
by a low neck of
[ makes like an
make it prudent

, is steep-to, and
gh. In the bay
f a mile from the
best in the strait

with deep water
ght line to Toriwi
varied tints, and,
ion. Among the
1,600 fflet, at 17
he northward are
rly 2 miles to the
3 cables from this

:apering point, ofif

ma, 40 feet high.

There is a tide

the N.E. of the cape
e, on her voyage from
rock, oflF Toriwi saki.
listant 2| miles from

race, near the full and chniigo of tho moon, 3 milos North of Low Islet, and
heavy overfalls with a N.E. swoU.

SIRIYA SAKI or Cape Nambu.— From Low Iwlot tho const to tho east-
ward is foul for about 3 miles, after which it may bo npproachod without
fear. At lOi miles from Low Islet is a remarkublo rod clilf, which shows
well to tho westward; and at 2 miles westward of this cliff is a high sharp
bluff, and a high round bluif 2 miles to the eastward.

From the latter bluff the coast is low to within 4 miles of Sirlya snki, or
CapeNambu, where it rises to 1,26.5 feet, and descends again towards tho
cape in a gentle slope, making at a distance like an island. There is good
anchorngo in the deep bay between this cape an.l tho rod cliff, but the best
is on its western side, abreast the coast-lino where tho high and low laud
meet, in 15 fathoms. Off the cape, at the distance of 3 cables, is u small
white rock 70 feet high. There is also another rock, rather larger, lying a
cable off shore, at 2 miles S.W. of the cape.

The Battler Eock.-Comm. J W. Webb, of H.M.S. Jiattkr, discovered a
dangerous rock, awash at low water, which lies E. by N., distant three-
quarters of a mile from the white islet or rock North of Siriya saki or Capo
Nambu, the N.E. point of Nipon.

CAPE YESAN or Esami, on tho South coast of Yeso, is the North pomt
of eastern entrance to Tsugar Strait, and the East extreme of a bold promon-
tory, with several remarkable dome- shaped mountains in the rear. The cape
itself is a steep cliff, about 600 feet high ; the volcano immediately above it
is 1,935 feet high, and frequently capped with a light cloud of steam, but
not otherwise active.

At 8f miles S.W. by W. of Cape Yesan is Conical Met, 200 ft. high, lying
close to the coast. There is a dangerous low point 1 mile to the westward ;
and at 2f miles to the eastward is Foul Point, which is low, and has a dan-
gerous reef extending 2 cables from it.

CAPE SIWOKUBI or Blunt, bears W. i S. 2i miles from Conical Islet,
E. by 8. 12 miles from Hakodadi Head, and N. by E. J E. !)J miles from
Low Islet, which is the narrowest part of the strait. This cape is stecp-to,
and the N.E. current frequently runs with greater strength close to tho
rocks than out in the stream. The summit of tho bluff immediately above
the cape is 1,022 feet high; from thence the highland ranges in towards
the Saddle Mountain. The coast for about 7 miles to the westward is a
level plain of an average elevation of 200 or 300 feet ; beyond 7 miles, it
descends to the low beach connecting the high land of Hakodate Head with

the main.

HAKODATE HEAD is the South extreme of a bold peaked promontory,
1,136 ft. high, standing well out from the high land of the main, with which
it is connected by a low sandy isthmus. The head is steep and precipitous,
and safe of approach. At 4 J miles West of the head is MusM Fomt, off

648

STRAIT OF TSUOAR.

which a reef extends 2 cables, and is stoep-to. The coast from thence to
Cape Saraki, at -JJ miles to the S.W., is level, but fringed with rocks, and
requires caution in approacliing. To the westward of the cape the shore is
low, with a sandy beach safe of approach, and clean ground for anchorage
to within 3 miles of Cape Tsiuka.

HAKODATE or HAKODADI HAEBOUR— The port of Hakodate or
Ilakodadi, on the North side of Tsugar Strait, is situated at the foot of the
northern slope of a high peninsula, which is connected with the mainland
of Yeso by a low sandy isthmus. It is an excellent roadstead, •! miles wide
and o miles deep, and, for accessibility and safety, is one of the finest in the
world. Its entrance is between Hakodate Head and Mussell Point, which
bear East and West of each other, dist t 4^ miles. The harbour is in the
south-eastern arm of the bay, and is cumpletoly sheltered.

This excellent port is one thrown open to American commerce by the treaty
procured by Commodore Perry, U.S.N., March 31, 1354. The town lies on
the southern coast of the Island of Yeso, on the western side of a small
peninsula which forms one side of the harbour. The appearance of the
l>lace is striking and picturesque, and in its jiosition, general aspect, and
many particulars, resembles Gibraltar.* The town, containing 1,000 houses,
and from 6,000 to 8,000 inhabitants, stretches for about 3 miles along the
base of a lofty promontory, divided into three principal peaks of from 600 to
1,000 feet in height, whose bare summits are often covered with snow. An
excellent road connects it with Matsmai. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged
in commerce and the fisheries, and carry on a largo trade with the interior, f

• The town contains over a thousand houses, which mostly stretch along in one main
thoroughfare near the scftside, while the remainder, forming two or three parallel streets,
hang upon the ascent of the hill in the rear. Every one on hoard the ships who had
visited Gibral'. r was struck with the resemblance of Hakodadi, from its position and
general aspect, to that famous fortified town. There was the isolated hill, on the base and
acclivity of which the houses were built, corresponding to the rock of Gibraltar ; there was
the low nock of land reaching to the elevated region beyond, like the neutral ground which
separates the English fortress from tho Spanish territory, and a receding country and
capacious bay surrounding Hakodadi, as well as Gibraltar, to strengthen the resemblance
between the two. Sloreover, the position of the Japanese town on^e Strait of Tsugar
(Sangar), with the high land of Nipon and its towns of Say and Mimaga at the South, like
that of Gibraltar, overlooking the narrow channel which connects the Atlantic and Medi-
terranean, and commands tho opposite and elevated coast of Africa, with the towns of
Tangier and Ceuta clothing its heights, served to confirm the similarity of features with
which every one whose travelled experience allowed of comparison was greatly impressed.
— (U.S. Japan Expedition, p. 506.)

t Hakodate belongs to the Imperial fief of Matsmai, and, with the exception of that
town, is tho largest on the island. It is 30 miles East of Jlalsiuai, uud they are couucctcd
by an excellent road.

jiiaM i i nipi'i

from thence to
ith rocks, and
pe the shore is
I fur anchorage

f Hakodate or
the foot of the
1 the niainhind
d, 1 miles wiclo
the finest in the
U Point, which
rbour is in the

•ce by the treaty
lie town lies on
side of a small
pearance of the
ral aspect, and
g 1,000 houses,
miles along the
3 of from 600 to
tvith snow. An
chiefly engaged
1 the interior.!

along in one main
•ee parallel streets,
the ships who had
n its position and
11, on the base and
braltar ; there was
itral ground which
Bding country and
a the resemblance
,e Strait of Tsugar
I at the South, like
Atlantic and Medi-
with the towns of
ty of features with
greatly impressed.

s exception of that
they are couucctcd

HAKODATE Oil UAKODADl IlAllBOUR.

(il'.t

More tlian a thousand junks are occaaioually seen at one time at anchor in
the liarbdur.

Supplies.— Water can be easily obtuiuod from Kamida Creek, which
enters the harbour to the northward and eastward of tJie town, but the
operation is attended with danger to the boats, which have to bo drugged
over the bar of the river. Tho Jiipancso supply fresh water in their own
boats at a very moderate rate. A supply of wood and water niny also bo
ordered through tho Custom-hcjuse, at tho bazaar, or from the American
agents residing at Hakodate.

The seine supplied tho Aiuorican squadron in 1854 with fine salmon and
a (iuantity of other fish, and the shores of tho bay abound with excellent
Bholl-fish. Buof, potatoes, sweet potatoes, fowls and eggs, and all neces-
saries can be procured. For largo supplies of provisions, masters of ships
sliould have recourse to the American agents. Vessels, oven when seriously
damaged, can undergo repairs in tho harbour, there being no scarcity of
raatorialis for this purpose. Timber of any dimensions can be procured,
though not in great quantity ; its price is very moderate. Expert and in-
telligent Japanese carpenters and elficient blacksmiths are also procurable.
There is no want of coopers, but, t)\viiig to the scarcity of iron, they use
bamboo for hoops.

There is a brass and iron foundry, though worked on a limited scale.
No copper sheathing can be obtained ; the native sheet copper is very thin
and small in size. Ships' boats can be repaired or constructed by the Japa-
nese in a very skilful manner from drawings.

Merchant vessels entering the port are subject to the Custom-house regu-
lations. Coal, of very inferior quality, is also procurable.

Pilots. — Vessels entering the bay are boarded by pilots who charge five
Mexican dollars, without any distinction as to the size of the ship. There
are no special harbour regulations.

TIDES.— It is high water, full and change, in this harbour at 5" 0"", and
the extreme rise and fall of tide is 3 feet.

Lightvessel. — Since October, 1865, a lightship has been moored in Hako-
date. The vessel exhibits a/^crf white light. Elevation, 21 feet above the
sea ; and visible 5 miles. She has one mast, carries a red ball during tho
day, and is moored in 6 fathoms water at the extremity of the bank, extend-
ing in a northerly direction from the peninsula of Hakodate.

The approximate position is lat. 41° 47' 30" N., long. 140° 44' 39" E. of
Greenwich.

Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwo Kubi, named
by the Americans Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous headland 12 miles
E.S.E. i E. from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbour will be visi-
ble over tho low isthmus.

Hounding the promontory of Hakodate, and giving it a berth of a mile,

■ ' i jKMJJlJSS''

650 HAKODATE OR nAKODADI.

to avoid the calms under the high land, 8teer for the sharp peak of Komapa-
daki, bearing about North, until the East peak of the Saddle, boanng about
N E by N., opens to the westward of tho round knob on the side of the
mountain ; then haul up to tho northward and eastward, keeping them <>pon
until the centre of tho sand-hills on the isthmus boars S.E. by E. J E. (tlieso
may be recognized by the dark knolls upon them.) This will clear the spit
which makes out from the western point of the t.>wn in a north-northwesterly
direction two-thirds of a mile ; * then bring the sand-hills a pomt on the ]^rt
bow, and stand in until the western point of the town bears S.W. i W.,
when you will have the best berth, with 6i or 6 fathoms water If it .s
desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of South ior ho
low rocky peak, which will be just visible over the slop.ng ndge to tho
Bouthward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught may
approach withm a quarter of a mile of Tsuki Point, where there :s a
building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbmir, however, is generally
crowded with vessels of this description ; and unless the want of repairs, or
some other cause, renders a close berth necessary, it is better to remain

outside. , ,,. ii.

If the peak or saddle is obscured by clouds or fogs, after doubling the
promontory, steer N.N.E., until the sand-hills are brought upon the bearing
above given, when proceed as there directed.

A ort distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sand-bank, with

3i fathoms on it, the outer edge of which is ^-^^^.^^ ^^"^^^'7,^,;!

Between this and the ^?it there is a narrow channel with 4 and 5 fathoms

water. Vessels may p.ss on either side of the buoy, but it is most prudent

to go to the northward of it.

Should the wind fail before reaching tho harbour, there is a good anchor-
age in the outer roads, in from 2.5 to 10 fathoms.

At night, many captains of vessels are in favour of a northerly course
being steered on entering Hakodate Bay to a depth of 7 fathoms, and keep-
ing in that depth on an easterly and south-easterly course, by which means
the spit will be safely rounded.

. These directions were drawn up. of course, before tho UghWe^el, at the North end of
the ^t wa elblished. However, should she not he on her station the following notes
the spit, "«««%., north-east end of the fir-trees in line with the Joss-bouse clears tho
: e':'::tin Jf hi: Jet: and the foot of the hill in lino with the middle of the
Idyp^int leads along the northern side of the shoal.-Captam K. Stewart. H.M.8.

Nankin, 1865. .it i

If these leading marks should be in the clouds, as thoy generally are. keep the western
extLle of tte prLontory of Hakodate bearing South or S. J W., which wUl clear the s^t
an^ul to the eastward when the centre of the sand-hills on the isthmus bears b.K by
E -3 E.-Commodore the Hon. C. EUiot, H.M.S. Sybill*, lS.5o.

M«r.f.i...>-

CAPE TSUIKA-CAI'E SIRAKAMI.

f.61

lak of Komapa-
I, bearing about
the side of the
pin|» thorn opon
jr E. J E. (these
I clear the spit
h-northwesterly
>oint on the port
irs S.W. i W.,
water. If it ia
,f South lor the
ng ridge to the
,te draught may
'hero there is a
»ver, is generally
mt of repairs, or
better to remain

fter doubling the
upon the bearing

sand-bank, with

white spar-buoy.

I 4 and 5 fathoms

it is most prudent

) is a good ancbor-

i northerly course
athoms, and keep-
«, by which means

tl, at the North end of
n, the following notes
Joss-bouae clears tho
^ith tho middle of the
n K. Stewart, U.M.S.

are, keep the western
vhich will clear the spit,
isthmus bears S.E. by

CAPE TSIUKA, at 11 miles P.S.W. of Capo Saraki, iH a high cliffy p^i.i.t,
which mny bo further known by tliroe rocks cxtonding a quarter of a nulo
from a point 1 mile north-eastward of . Tho outer ro.k of th. throe ,h oi
a conical form an.l 70 foot high. The land to the westward for 1 «»>li^^« '"
high and cliffy ; about half way botwoon the cape and the end of tho chUs
there are two watcrfallH.

Vessels can an.hor in tho bight of the bay, between Capes Tsmka and
Sirakami; but as a southerly wind on tho western tide nends m a crosH
swell, it would not be prudent to anchor far in. The position .s in 15 to 20
fathoms, with the southern white cliff bearing West about a mile.

CAPE SIRAKAMI or Nadiejda, tho North point of western entrance to
Tsugar Strait, is a high bluff, similar to Cape Siwokubi, but not so safe of
approach. Tho coast, for more than a mile on each side of the cape, is
bordo- ■? with numerous rocks, generally above water, some of which run
off nearly 2 cables. As it is not known whether the dangers extend under
water beyond this distam^e, it will bo prudent to give the capo a good berth

in passing. _, ., x n

From Cape Sirakami the coast trends W. by N. I N. 5 miles to Capo
Matsumao, which is low, and off it is a conical islet, with a small temple or
building on it. The bay between is very rocky, excepting off the East oud
of the city of Matsumao, where there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms at
half a mile off shore; but this anchorage would, of course, be unsafe m

southerly winds. ., , ^i. o

Currents and Tides.-During the survey of Tsugar Strait by the Saracen,
in June, July, and August, 1855, a constant N.E. current set through the
middle of the strait, the breadth of which varied considerably according to
the state of the wind and weather. Before and during a N.E. wind its
strength was much diminished ; but with the wind from the opposite direc-
tion, it would expand and fill up two-thirds of the channel against the
strength of the western tide. ^ ,„ ,

The tide in the stream ran about 12 hours each way near the full and
change of the moon, and there were only two regular tides by the shore m
24 hours At full and change, the flood or eastern stream made at Tatsupi
saki at 6- 30- a.m., at 7^ at Cape Tsiuka, and at 7^ 30- at Toiiwi saki. The
western stream began about 12 hours later. The turn of the stream takes
place li hour later every day nearly.

C. Pemberton Hodgson, Esq., H.M. Consul at Hakodate, who interested
himself to coUect information on the subject, writes:-" The tides set with
terrific force from the Pacific and Japan Sea ; coming from the S.E. and
E S E. on the one side, and from the West, S.W.. and N.W. on the other,
they meet in the very middle of the strait. From any high land an observer
may see such fearful concussions of the two tides, each running from 3 to 5
miles an hour, and such heavy breaking overfalls, that he may wonder how

652 STRAIT OF T8U(}AI{.

a Hhip can, even with a fair wind, f.wo thorn ; and with oomrnmtivo nliirrn,
liow, with tv contrary wind, a vesHol can boat againut thoni."

KO SIMA lioH W. i S. 16} miles from Capo iSirukaiui, tho N.W. point of
.mtrance to tho strait of Tsugar. It has a round poak, i)71 foot liigh, and
tlioro are two roinarkablo sugar-loaf islets or rocks lying oil' its VVost ovA.
It is an oxcoUcnt mark for T.sugar Strait.

U SIMA, or Ohoiima, 2,800 foot high, boars N.W. by W. J W. 18 railos

from Ko sima.

0K08IRI ISLAND lios off tho 8.W. coast of Yoso. Tho South oxtremo
i8 low, and dotachod rocks lio about 2 milos S. of it. Some of thcso rocks ar..
10 to 15 foot above water, and apparoutly a roof counocts them with the
island. The eastern sido of the island is stoop-to. The N.E. point of tho
island appeared from a distance to have a rocky lodge running out a short
distance from it. On tho Yoso side of tho channel tho land is high, aud tho
coast apparontly bold-to.

DIRECTIONS.— Sailing vessels approaching Tsugar Strait from the west-
ward during foggy weather should guard against being carried by tho cur-
rent to tho northward past tho entrance. Should tho weather bo clear when
nearing Cape Gamaley, it may be as well to sight it ; but if doubtful, shape
a course (allowing for tho probable current) direct for Capo Oreig. Shoul.l
a fog come on suddenly when nearing this capo, recoUoct that tho coast is
clear and sandy, and the soundings are regular to the southward, but rocky
with irregular soundings to the northward of it. The capo is steep-to, and,
standing out prominently from the coast-line, forms a good land-mark.

No particular directions are required in passing through this strait to tho
eastward, as there are no hidden dangers, and the north-easterly current
will always be found strongest in the middle of the stream.

Approaching tho strait from the eastward, steor for Capo Nambu, and
endeavour to make it on a N.W. bearing. Pass tho cape at about a mile
distant, then haul in to avoid the current and to anchor, should it fall calm.
In this' case, by keeping this shore close aboard, the vessel may probably bo
drifted up to Low Islot, off Toriwi saki, by the western stream, when tho
N.E. current is running like a mill-stream in mid-channel.

At tho anchorage off Low Islet the vessel must wait a favourable oppor-
tunity for crossing the strait. Pass about half a mile from Low Islet, and
in crossing the current, take care not to bo set to leeward of Hakodate.

Proceeding from Hakodate to the westward against S.W. winds, keep
well inside Cape Tsiuka, and if unable to round it, anchor with the stream
or kodge about 2 miles to tho N.E., weighing again when the next western
tide makes. Should the wind be very light, a vessel may not clear the
strait in one tide ; in this case it will bo better to wait a tide to the eattward
of Capo Sirakami, and take the whole of the following tide to clear the
btrait, than run any risk of being swept into tho strait again by tho current.

*wj^!i« i i»jiL i

IST.ANl) OF YESO.

f..-.;i

inmtivo nliinn,

N.W. piiint (if
feet Jii^li, and
■ its \Vo»t or.fl.

J \V. 18 miloa

South oxtromo
' thoHO rocks uro

tlu)m with tlio
E. point of tho
iiifjf out a Hhort
s hit;h, and tho

t from tho woMt-
riod by tho cur-
)r bo clour when
doubtful, shapo
Oreig. Shouhl
that tho coast is
ward, but rocky
is steep-to, and,
laud-mark,
this strait to tho
-easterly current

i\po Nambu, and
at about a milo
Lould it fall calm,
may probably bo
tream, when the

avourablo oppor-
u Low Islet, aud
f Hakodate.
.W. winds, keep
r with the stream

the next western
nay not clear the
le to the eastward

tide to clear tho
liu by tho current.

VcRseh pasHing throngh tho strait, particularly to tho wontward, should liavo
a h'ood kodge and laO fathoms of hawser ready for immediate use, and muHt
keep tho land close aboard.

ISLAND OF YESO.

Tliis island, in its time, has been the object of inuch googrnphical discus-
sion and criticism. Tho Dutch commander Do Vries, was tho lirst to give a
distinct notion of its existence aud general character to the world. .Subse-
quently tho detailed researches made in tho years 1787 and 17!)7, by La
K-rouso and Captain Broughton, and then tho voyage of the .\,nli,jala, by
Captain Krusenstorn, in iHO.^,, cleared up all doubts on tlie subject, so that,
with tho exception of tlie North coast, its geography is known.

At the time of tho first Japanese establishment in tho island, the inhobit-
ants, according to Golownin, called themselves Ju,m>, from which word tho
names Yiw, Jmo, Ai'no, and Tnxu, aro derived.

The name of Yeso, or Jesso, has been adopted by most recent authors,
because it is that by which it is most generally kuown by Europeans, al-
though tho name Aiuo is, beyond doubt, that givou to tho original inhabit-
ants of the island.

Our present knowledge of the island is chiefly drawn from the notices of
its original discovery in the Dutch ships Cadricm and Jlrcshs, under Capt.
De Vries, in 1643, from that of Laxman in 1792, from Captain Broughtou
in 1796, and from Captain Rikord, of the Russian navy, in the corvette
Diana. The northern coast has not been visited, but is copied from tlu^ Ja-
panose representations. All tho western coast, with tho gulfs, bays, and
islands in its neighbourhood, are exhibited from the observations of Capt. Ivru-
ecnstern in 1 805. The Strait of Tsugar and Hakodate, the port thrown open
to the commercial ports by tho American treaty of 1854, have been surveyed
surveyed by British and American officers, and have just been described.

The Island of Yeso is of a triangular form, tho sides of which aro 100,
85 and 73 leagues in length. The three extremities of this triangle aro
Capo Soya, the North point of the island, in lat. 45^ 31' 15' N., long. 14r
51' E. ; Cape Serakami or Nadi^jeda, the South point, in lat. 41" 25' 10" N.,
long. 140° 9' 30" E. ; and Cape Nossyam or Broughton, its eastern extreme,
in lat. 43° 38' 30" N., long. 146" T 30" E.

Yeso is separated from the Kurile Islands on tho S.E. by a strait, named
by Krusenstorn the Strait of Yeso, which is about 8 miles broad m the
narrowest part, that is, opposite the S.W. point of the' islarf. o. Kunasin
This part of the coast has not been yet surveyed. All that .. Known of it
is that it forms a deep bay, and that the extremity of Kunasiri advances
very far into this bay, so that the eastern cape of Yeso entirely hides tho
strait which separates the two islands, from which cause those navigators

■"^^STSSS^^-

^^,_, ISLAND OF YESO.

surrounded by rocks and islots.

Port Hemoro i« on tho inner side of tho tongao of land at « ™ ^« ^^ « «
W^ W from its extreme. Laxman anchored hero m tho ^JuaM,
found a Javaneso estHblUhmont^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^ .^

Til. strait sonnratnirYoso from thiKotan 18 iw lou^" " . r on

Walvis and Tchikotan Islands. . . ,, .

cl^ 8i..toko or Spraberg, a B.mo aUo .pplM by Admiral Kr„.o„..crn
i„Zur"!^h:Luu.«aaaa,iga.«r.ho,UU.d.he.o pari.. h.s .n la..

''Z; 'ZuJ,!;;a!'»d aaot,,,. rap,, lyi.. .» -"=- N. 60- W. froM «, fo™

L S.W. J W. 38 mita fi-om Capo Broub-liton, m about lal. 43 20 N.,

"I'ln A.U. aod Capo Brou.hton, Uxman Pja- -»"' f ^
tbo laad, o„o ot «Wob ,. bcfor. tho ontranco to '•'''^*^ ' ""-^f,

• • .J l,v n root callod JtikiiMiMri and «.»«». at 7 milos B.n. oi in..
'"'^11 Tl o two v. /.W. arc 13 mil.. &,.!...- in tbo .aa,o d roohon
ItTJlo-SW. torn Capo Uroagblonaro two otbcr., named i-.n and

"Zl'L of Good Hop., according to Jan.en.. chart, lio, to tho SAV. of

..I^^ TUsdoop bati.,mouthi.narrowodbybre.kor., o.tond.ng off both

. M .lanco Tho .ounding. thronghoat vary from 5 to 16 and

^f rbaTand IJ. tho onLnco of tho innor bay. Tho oaaton. potat of
ihe bav iB called Cape Maimyhr, in lat. 43° ON.

X 2.» or £.1, tho S.E. ..t^mity ot Y.^, i. vory -P^^f 'j'^"''"
..d pUcod on tho chart.. It ma, bo ia kt. 41' W N., loag. .42 55 E.

,-,i;.jl)^.iJi;:i

itaBBMitt

V<>L('AN() BAY.

to be but one
riiphors.

Y08O, occonlinp;
l)ear8, lios 8. 65''
iir 3H.i' N., long.
10 luiluH iu length

, at 6 inilos to tho
ho Klizabffh, and

i in length, but it
yr an extent of 20
liannel is botwoon

imiral Krusonstorn
parts, lies in lat.

3° W. from it, form
imod Laxman Hay,
Comoro. Near tho
hy, the position of
52' E. Port Atkis
lat. 43° 20' N., Ion.

overo^ nds near
IjIb, ( -) others

miles ^.E. of this
the same direction,
named Imoshlri and

, lies to the S.W. of
8, extending off both
y from 5 to 16 and
is on the right side
The eastern point of

ry imperfectly known
long. 142" 55' E.

vigator who lias, with a
, determined the geogra-
lugbton."

VOLCANO BAY is to the northward of Ilukodnto, on tho eastern sido
of thop«min«uhi. It was vittitt-d and nnnit'd by n^o^l^'llton in Hept., IT'.K!,
and it was surveyed by tho U.S.S. Soulfuimphn, one of tho Anxtricnn oxpti-
(lition, in May, 185 ».— (Soo Nurr.vtivo, pp. 535—540.) Th.-y generally con-
lirniod tho d.mcription by Urovighton, who thus speukn of it :— " 1 have seen
fow Ifti-.ds that hour a finer asptict than tlio northern sido of Voli'iino Huy.
The entrauio into this oxte:mi"o buy is funned by tho land making tho
harbour, wliich tho natives eiUEndermo, and tlio South point, which they
e*ll /,:«//•//./. They boar from eaeh other N. 17'' W. and 8. 17" E. 1 1 lon^uos,
Tliore aro no lens than three volcanoes in the buy, which induced mo to CuU
it by that name.* There aro 50 fathoms of water in tho centre, and the
Houiidings decrease on tho approach to either shore. During our stay at tho
period of the equinoxes, we experienced generally very fine weather, with
gontlo land and sea winds from the N.E. and S.E., and no swell to prevent
a ship riding in safety, even in the bay, and the harbour of Endermo is per-
fectly sheltered from all bad weather.

Endermo Harbour, on Uie western side of the North point, affords good
eholtor from all winds, bringing the bluff on tho extreme part of the isthmus,
which forms tho starboard point in coming in to bear N.W. In this situa-
tion wo found 4 or 5 fathoms ; and tho port entry point on tho North shore
was on with the bluff. In running for tho harbour, tho island must bo kept
open with tho starboard entry point till within half a milo of a small islet
(wliieh is only so at half tide), and then you must steer in to the S.AV., when
the water will bo shoaled, and any berth tal . n you may prefer. Tho sound-
ings gradually decrease from 10 to 2 fatlmms, soft bottom. A lew houses
were scattered on tho South side of tho harbour : and towards tho head the
shores are low and flat, so much so as to prevent boats landing within 100
yards. In oil other parts wood and water aro procured with the utmost cou-
venienco. Tho small island was named JIans Olaaon Island, from one of
Bi-oughton's seamen who was buried there. The harbour is formed by tho
apparent island, which is an extensive peninsula, of a circular figure. Lat.
of Cape Yetomo at the entrance, 42" 21' N., long. 140° 56' 30" E. High
water, full and change, 5" SO™ ; rise and fall, 6 feet."

The U.S. expedition found a Japanese settlement in tho harbour; tho
officials hero received them in a friendly manner, and had carefully preserved
the grave of Broughton's seaman.

The 8TEAIT of TSUGAE and the treaty port of Hakodate, have been be-
fore described.

Cape Sirakami or Nadiejda, the S.W. point of Yoso, which has been
before mentioned, was observed with great precision by Capt. Krusenstem

These volcanoeu, one especially, was in action iu May, 1854.

r,^m:m!SSm^^V^m?xm'!^ff!^^^^'^^''^^

e,,P, ISTAND OF YESO.

. V • If 41" 9 V 10" N loiiff. 140^ 9' 30" E. It therefore forms thoN.W.
t. be m lat. 41 2o ^^J^''^^ ^^^^ .^e point, ou Nipon,

point of the entrance to he i^.^-ut "1 isui, 11 ^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^

being Capo Tsugar, which is m lat. 41 lb 30 , long.

ntrnit is here 9 miles broad. . •„„ ^e

The two islands, 0..«« and ^o-suna, are only black, rocky mountains of
ihe two IS aim , ^^^ ^^g ^ ^^j^tpp

''mItSUMAE, or Jl/a^.«.«, the capital of the Island of Yeso, lies in a bay

jUAxowJ* TM w nf Pane Nadieieda. The two capes forming

of the same name to the N.W. ot «^ape iNauieji.ua r

ot tne sam ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^ j^^ ^^^^ rphe

this bay he IS. 70 W. and b. 70 i. ^.

Tinrthenimost Cape Matmmae, in m lat. 41 25 , long, iiu < , , . .

rMaCna is Lctly to the East of this cape, 7 miles distant that is, in
iLTsO', long. 140= 14'. According to Broughton, a small island appa-
!:„tly 30in:d t/the land by reefs, lies near its N.W. point. On it he per-
ceived a small building, perhaps a guardhouse. _

Cape Sineko is to the N.W. of Cape Matsumae, m lat 41 39 30 bn
140-4' 15", according to Captain Krusenstern's observations. At 40 miles
N.V W. rom it is Ca,e Oote Nnarou of the Japanese charts ; this a^o wa.
determined by Captain Krusenstern ; lat. AT 18' 10", ^-^^/^^ «;^ J
the S.E. of it is the ManA of Okosiri, --^-"^^^^^^ andTs W
xniles from the coast. It is 1 1 miles long, m a N.N.E. . E. and S.S.W. i

^'J^etZoff^ in lat. 42° 38', long. 139» 5G'. It lies *<> the northward
of cTpe Oote Ni.avou, and is remarkable for a high mountam, the position
of which is lat 42^ 38' N. and 140° 1' E. Between these two capes is i^utimff

;:i;X»atea £«. Tolca„o Bay on th. South .■debyou.s.Umu. 20 M.l«

'° Stotnoir Bay U.. to the nortiward of Cape NovosiUov. It ».s thu.
naSv Ca,.t. K™..n*™ in 1805, and i. n league, in depth fron, N.W
to S.E., by 14 leagues torn Cap. No™.ikov to Cp. M«f ■»», m lat. «

''lo'ttoN E'lnhLtetter cape U ."-i o. Mount I'M... in lat. 44- 0' N.,
l„r U4M- E. Thi. will point out th, position of a ba, w,th low shore.
Zh t hLen Cape. Malespina and *V/,«.# Thi. is .at. 44« 20,

long. 141= 47'.

■) i i« j Wj!»g.tf.mw » "'

THE WEST COAST OF NIT'ON.

f.57

fore forms tho N.W.
site point, on Nipon,
0' 14 E., 80 that the

rocky mountains, of
Duld not be a bettor
na exactly before its
■', lon^ 139" !9' lo",
lies in circuit, ly'.ng in
distance to the North

of Yeso, lies in a bay
:he two capes forming
i leagues apart. The
140= 7' 20". The city
les distant, that is, in
a small island, appa-
point. On it he per-

lat. 41° 39' 30", long,
fvations. At 40 miles
charts ; this also was
I", long. 139° S6'. To
page 652, distant 12
?,. £ E. and S.S.W. |

lies to the northward
mountain, tho position
386 two capes is Jiutusojf

tusoff, and to the North
' 25' 30". It projects
luth direction. The bay
Le by an isthmus 20 miloa

ovosilzov. It was thus
ues in depth from N.W.
)e Malaspina, in lat. 43

Vdhs, in lat. 4-1° 0' N.,
[ a bay with low shores,
ioff. This is lat. 44° 20',

Off this latter capo are two small islets, r,'in-lrf and YaiiikeHm-ii, lying \1
iHilos N.W. ofthe.-'apo.

CAPE NOSYAB or Romanzoflf is tho N.W. o.xtremity of Yoso ; it was
thus named by Kruseustern, and is placed by lum in lat. 1.5' 2."/ 5", long-.
1 ir 44' 20'. A narrow and low tongue of land extends nearly a milo to tho
N.W. from this point. There is a largo bay between Cape Romanzoff and
another lying N. 62° E. 14 miles distant, called Soya by tho inliabitants.
The Nadicjeda, Capt. Krusenstern's ship, anchored in this bay, which also
received the name of Eomanzoff, at the entrance of a Rinall bay in the
southern part of the greater bay, at 2 miles from the nearest shore, in 9
fathoms, an o.\cellent bottom of fine sand and mud.

Near to Cape Eomanzoff are two islands, mentioned on page 578, licfunsiri
and lihirl. The first is tho Cape Giiibert, and the second the Tic de
Langle, of La Porouse, who thought that both formed part of Yeso. Tho
Pic de Langle, according to Captain Krusenstern's observations, is in lat.
Ab° 11' N., long. 141- l2' 15" E., and is probably the mountain which the
Dutch called Blyde Berg.

Cape Giiibert, that is, the N.E. point of Eofunsiri, is in lat. 45° J7' 45' N.,
long. 141° 0' E. It is high in the centre, and extends 12 miles in a N. by
E. and S. by W. direction. A dangerous rock, with only 8 feet water over
it, lies about 9 or 10 miles northward of Eofunsiri.

The Horrid Hock is reported to lie 12 miles West of Eefunsiri, lat. 45°
42', long. 140° 42' E.

Cape Soya is the northern point of Yeso, and forms the narrowest part of
La Perouse Strait. A reef, awash, lies 7 or 8 miles E.S.E. of it.

The Strait of La Perouse, which separates Yeso from Saghalin, has been
before noticed.

THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.

The West coast of Nipon is but little known, and should therefore be
navigated with necessary prudence and caution. The only parts at present
surveyed are the islands Sado, Awa sima, and Tabu eima, and the strait
between Sado and Nii.'gata, by II.M. ships Adceon and Dove, in 1859. The
coast from Tsugar Strait (page G45) to Cape Noto has been partially ex-
plored by the Bittern and other of H.M. ships, the Eussian gun yossel ly iff it,
and H.M. surveying vessel Saraeen. The latter vessel has also explored the
coast between Cape Louisa (lat. 34° 40' N.) and the western entrance of the

Inland Sea.

The coast between Sado and Cape Louisa do. : not appear ever to have
been sighted by European sliips ; its coast Ihio has been taken from the
Japanese manuscript, and may, with the exception of possible dangers off
it, be regarded as accurately delineated.

^Wth Pacific. * ^

.--jy i , yff i rfi.TO~

'iCi?.?ii1S'' ' '»''j ' i,' iV !4S,T? i^^

f)5S

THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.

BITTEEN E0CK8.-Thi« group of three B.all rock, two abo e w

lie dose together, within the space of two cabh. feep- to on the

Bide having 15 and 17 fathoms at the distance of 2 cables, ana

:ith HO fathoms at U miles. The face of the rocks was covered w.th seals,

which were with diffictiUy dislodged. „^, j.

The south-western or largest rock, in lat. 40 31 W., long.
anllvirW by S. about 15 or 17 miles from Cape Gamaley. -^^-t IB
ana lying >> . oy "■" „„.Wna tlio hull of a voesol of about

foot high, and in size and appearance rosembles the hull

'"Tar'sima (Observatory Rock off the East extreme of which is in lat.
39M1 Sa^N long. l.Av IT' E.), is in shape somewhat of a horseshoe^
Tith a lb "at it! N.E. end. It is on top nearly ^ ^^^ va^^^/^
UO to 150 feet in height. Its greatest length is 1- m.le ^-E- and S-W.-
and its wi^st part, the KK ^^ ^t^. a J^^;^;^ ^ ^ind.
TOuld 1.0 obtu.neii. except a few hsh. ^P"°8» ^itl, tl,o

qoirH. f^xtrome of tho island bearing S.W. by W. 4 »•» "^

Ite« N E lU. Eu.si.n g,m.ve».l 7>,V,-« ancb.r«l m the B.me ba, u.

«„r.L a coral bottom. I. afford. A.ltor from .11 .»d. r«vale.. .u

the Japan Sea. , . , . • i„f ifto oq' 36" N.. long.

Awa Sima, the N.E. extreme of which is m lat. 38 29 36 IN g

11590 16' 7 ' E is a narx-ow strip of land running N.N.E. and S.S.W., and
eh gat t'southern extreme an elevation of 680 feet. ^^^^^
nl, and nearly a mile in breadth, the widest part being - the -nt.
ie on the East .hore, is a fishing village, while another stand a he
Sou h end of the other shore, in a small bay protected by a -tural bre k
'at. The inhabitants wore, as well as at Tabu sima. very civil. Nothing

but fish could bo obtained. . . x „j:„„ «f,rt

SAI»0 ISLAND, lying 25 miles westward of the important trading por
!jAi.»u laijaau, ,y t, afiW nearly 17 at its widest

of Nicgata, is m nn\m long, N.N.E. and h.S.W., near y

part, and i.. composed of two parallel mountain ranges lj.ng N.W. and .^b

If olch other, the neck of land joining them being a P^-; ^ «';^^^;;;,^^
SW Bidesofwhichareformed two extensive open bays. A remaikable

"Z, fi:! Kill 700 feet high, stands on a fiat off the North ext—«
.he island and from a distance look« like an isolated rock. To the north
^^. are a few detached rocks close to the shore, and c^ oft « -
or Wa .aki, the north-ea.tern point of the island, .-bich is in lat. 38 19 o.
N lone. 138" 27' 9" E. round

This latter point vises somewh,B,t abniptly, and gams «,n elevation of ,800
J LmwHch tho land, descending slightly, runs n ^^^^^^
S S W. for 10 miles, and terminates in a sharp nipple «1 4..0n fee elc^.
"on whence it descend, in a gentle uniform slope to the southward. The

-< ^ iiit>w w »' M ' *'*" '^***'**'"*"'"

NIEGATA

659

two above water
ruly, 1805. They
) on their wester u
,B, and no bottom
covered with seals,

long. 13r 31' E..
naley, is about IH
)f a vossol of about

of which is in lat.
lat of a horseshoe,
flat, varying from
ile N.E. and S.W.,
.cross. No supplies
)llcnt water abound.
a S.E. side, with the
tV., and Observatory
in the same bay in i>
1 winds prevalent in

8° 29' 36" N., long.
E. and S.S.W., and
eet. It is 3i mile in
being in the centre,
nother stands at the
by a natural brealf-
,, very civil. Nothing

oportant trading port
larly 17 at its widest
\ lying N.W. and S.E.
)lain, on the N.E. and
bays. A remarkable
the North extreme of
, rock. To the north-
we, and one off J « '■'r/.f'
ch is in lat. 38^ 19' £">

18 an elevation of 3,800
in rocky ridges to the
)le of 4,500 feet olevn-
the southward. The

West point of the island has a bold, clean bhoro, whence the coast recodos
round Sawa-mni Bay to the S.E., and is low. There are numerous fishmg
villages along the western shores, and a few boat harbours were seen.

Anchorage.-IfNiigata should be opened to European trade, no vessel
except a powerful steamer could, during the autumn or winter months, re-
main at anchor off that port, as gales of wind commencing at b.AV., and
veering to N.W. rapidly succeed each other, and send in such a hep.vy sea
that no ground tackle could be depended upon, and the holding ground is
very indifferent. Under these circumstances, the most prudent course to
adopt would be to anchor under shelter of Sado, and have the cargo trans-
ported from Nii^gata in junks or light draught steamers.

The bend in the coast line on the N.E. side of tlio island forma an exten-
sivebay called Minnto-mats, which affords anchorage in 12 to 16 fathoms,
sheltered from E. by S. (round South and West) to Nor A. Acontmuous
rock, 60 feet high, called Siza, marks Okawa Point, the South extreme of
this bay, in which no known dangers exist. At the head of the bay is the

town of Jhcsso or ydim. , .„ ^ p „

Another eligible anchorage will be found off Oda village, a quarter of a
mile S.S.W. of Mutsu saki, a low projecting tongue of shmgle, bearing
S S W ^ W. distant lO.J miles from Okawa Point.

■ A fewVowls, some fish, and vegetables were obtained by the Act ceon innug
her stay at Sado. Firewood may be obtained, but it is supposed not ^n sufli-
cient quantities for steaming purposes. Nearly every h^tle valley has its
Tream of e..eollent water flowing down to the beach. Coal .s not known

1IIEGATA.-This was one of the treaty ports to be opened on January ,
ml but this has not been hitherto carried out. The city of Nii|gata stands

n the left bank of. for Japan, a rather large river wUh 4 fu horns wa e
within the entrance ; but a bar off the entrance seals .t to vessels of greate
lughtthan 7 or 8 fe«t. In fresh breezes from seaward the sea breaks
across the entrance, and at that time not even a boat could crossthe bar w.th-
o" risk. The roadstead off the river's mouth is quite exposed, and the

't;::^ iirit opment .ty on the SVest coast of Nip^. It contai^
abo Coo inhabitants, and appears to absorb nearly the whole junk
trade of that side of the island, but it is not adapted f,.. foreign vessels.

The ity is situated on an extensive alluvial plain, int...ec.od by my
rivers which faU near the coast into the main stream the S.nano ga.a
:S Tai: its rise about 120 miles to the southwar . T is low co
extends for 42 miles, and presen. - -^ Pf;« ^^e^ -ir
and houses When bearing South or S.S.W., it is seen cieu y
;;^^- entrance, filjed wi. junks; .^ o^ ^^^^Z^Z
heads are visible over the land, one ile^ of them lying j
entrauce, and another more to the southward, off the city, rarther

nttm<amtmr- ■

■ ini,«ws<Bta?5«aK}Cw:iT-

G60 TnE WEST COAST OF NIPON.

the East, on a small elevation, is seen the town of Aosima yaina and high

mountains rise in the interior.

Soundings reach to a considerable distance off the mainland in the vi-
cinity of Niegata; vessels, therefore, running between Sado and Nipon at
night, or in a fog, should keep the lead quickly hove. Should soundings
be obtained and decrease gi-adually, the mainland is being approached. A
run of very deep water will be found on the Sado side of the channel.

The U.S.S. Shenandoah, Commodore J. K. Gouldsborough, anchored off
the city in 1867, in 10 fathoms water; mud and fine black sandy bottom.
Twelve feet of water was found upon the bar, high water ; rise and fall,

4 feet.

The bar has two boat channels ; the one to the East is deepest. There is
a sand-bank about half a mile from the land, and about one mile wide ;
inside the bar there are 4 fathoms. The coast is low for some distance, and
presents an even appearance, dotted with trees and houses.

The left bank of the river fi-om its mouth is sandy, and first turns
S.S.W. and then S.W. up to the city. The right bank is sandy at the
entrance, then marshy, but steep ; it trends S.E. by S., and then runs pa-
rallel to the left bank. The broadest part of the river is 6 cables, opposite
the second bend.

The city, which is of great extent, is intersected by canals crossed by
bridges, their banks shaded by weeping willows. It is surrounded by gar-
dens of the pear tree, peach, and vine ; between the trees are planted turnips,
onions, and mustard. The position of the governor's hotise is lat. 37° 58' 51 '
N., long. 139° 9' 45" E.

The town of Aomma yama stands near the embouchure of a river, which
also has a bar carrying only 7 feet. It is said to be 6 miles N.E. of Niegata,
but is but half that distance according to the Japanese manuscript.

For the distance of 4 miles a strong indraught, on the flood tide, is ex-
perienced off the entrance of Niegata, greatly to the inconvenience of sailing
vessels seeking an offing. The ebb would, of course, assist them off the

land.

At 15 miles S.W. i W. from Nif=gata the low shore terminates at Kadota.
yama Eead, 4 J miles North of a spur of the fine peaks of Yafiko yatna, which
has the appearance of a blunt cone sloping on the West. A mile to the South
the peak of Kauriko yama rises to a higher elevation.

TOYAMA BAY.— The coast to the S.W. of Yafiko yama is very high,
especially near this bay, where the throe snowy peaks of the Sa-yama moun-
tains appear above the clouds. Cape Roiven or Noto, is the western point of
entrance to this extensive bay, which is broadly open to the North and N.E.
The Bjigit passed along its eastern and southern shores, both of which are
very populous, as was evident in the number and extent of the villages seen.
Some rivers flow into the bay, but having bars like that of Nii'gata they

TAPE NOTO.

6(U

yama and high

land in the vi-
) and Nipon at
lould soundings
approached. A
I channel.
;h, an(;hored off
c sandy bottom.
• ; rise and full,

eppst. There is
one mile wide ;
me distance, and

and first turns

is sandy at the

d then runs pa-

cables, opposite

anals crossed by
rounded by gar-
I planted turnips,
ialat. 37° 58' 51'

)f a river, which
N.E. of Niiigata,
uscript.

flood tide, is ex-
enience of sailing
isist them off the

inates at Kadota.
"^afiko yama, which
. mile to the South

ma is very high,
le Sa-yama moun-
B western point of
e North and N.E.
3oth of which are
[ the villages seen,
at of Nii'gata they

are not accessible to ships. All the anchorages off the villages are move
or leas exposed to winds from the northward. The Uinr Onmu nawa, on
which the town of Toyama stands, has a bar of 7 feot water completely

across it. ,

This bay is in every respect inferior to the roadstead off Nii'gata, and with
strong northerly winds more difficult to quit. The harbour of Uumra, on its
western side, was not examined, but according to the Japanese manuscript

it is spacious. , ^ .

Yntsi sima, in lat. 37° 50i' N., 136» 55' E., is 40 feet high, about two-
thirds of a mile in diameter, level, and cultivated ; there are a few stunted
trees on it, and a small village on its southern side. With the island bear-
ing N N W. 5 miles, the depth was 46 fathoms, fine sand.

The Astrolabe Eock. in lat. 37' 35' N., 136" 54 E., 200 feet high, and
about a quarter or a third of a mile in diameter, is the largest and highest of
a group of five rocks, which extend nearly H mUe in a N.E. and 8.W. direc-
tion, and vary from '200 to 70 feet in height.

CAPE NOTO or Eoiven, in lat. 37° 28' N., 137° 22' E., is elevated about
700 or 800 feet, the land rising 1,200 to 2,000 feet to the westward of it.
At 12 miles W. by S. from the cape is a remarkable white cliff that shows
weU to the westward ; from this cUff the coast bends in to the southward and
forms Wmima Bay. The opposite point of the bay is about 8 miles distant
and immediately above it is the sharp peak of Wamu yama, elevated 2,000
feet, which is the highest point in the neighbourhood, the land being generally
level and of an uniform height of about 800 or 1,000 feet. At 10 miles W
byS fromWaisima,or30 mUes W. by S. from Cape Note, the coast at
Isonosu, a prominent projecting hill, 800 feet high, trends away sharply to
the southward, 12 mUes to the entrance of Nanao.

Nanao, or Nanow, is in lat. 37° 2' N., long. 136o gg' E. The entrance
to this harbour is about half a mile wide; but after passing the project-
ing point which forms the narrow entrance, a wide and capacious bay

''^The city of Nanao is situated in the extreme western angle of the bay,
and soundings gradually decrease from H fathoms at the entrance until you
reach the anchorage off the town.

Two smaU islands, 10 feet above water, lay about 2.i miles off froni the
town; good water all round these islands, except about 800 feet W.N.W.
off the western one, where there is a patch of 16 feet. By keeping the
starboard hand aboard, on entering and passing about a quarter of a milo
from the only bluff point on the western side as you enter the harbour, you
will carry 7, 6, 6, and 4 fathoms water, muddy bottom.

The population of Nanao is about 15,000, and its exports very ittle, if
anything-a few dried fish and mats only. A ship-yard is being built to the
eastward of the town.

■■"M!!i''W*''l' '!"■■'

^,,52 THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.

Nanao has two entrances, caused by an inlet about 3 nules long, parallel
Kith the coast and between the northern and southern extreme pom of land
which forms the entrance to this spacious bay. There are no pecuhar foa-
tures of the coast, or landmarks, to denote their entrances as you approach
them from the sea. A sunken rock exists about 5 miles from the southern
point, and a reef is said to exist off the northern point of the South entrance.
The northern entrance is said to be more free from obstructions than the

southern. « ■« q anil

Bring the middle of the southern entrance to bear W. by S. , &■, ana

then run for it. After entering thechannel, keep close over to the North

shore, running parallel to a line passing through North Channel bluff and

Matui-Osaki, which will be a course about W. by S. J S. ; but do not got

inside .. bight between the two points, for there is a shoal there with only

3 feet of water on it bearing S. bj W. from a little village. In passing

through the channel South of North Channel Bluff, borrow on the northern

side, which may be approached quite closely, and steer in towards the bar-

hour S.W. by W. £ W. , . -. i ^Uh

The southern side of the entrance of Nanao is said to be quite rocky, with

dangerous reefs extending from it in an easterly direction to the distance of

5 miles. , .-i

From North channel bluff steer S.W. by W. i W., by compass, untd

the North side of square cliff (Ota) is in line with East end of Mejima;

the steer S.W. J W. until the North end of square cliff is in line with the

centre of Ojima, when steer S. i E. until the centre of square cliff bears L.

i N., where a good anchorage will be found in H fathoms water. This is

about the centre of the harbour. .

The danger to be avoided in entering this harbour is a 16-foot spot, which

is 850 yards from Ojima, and in range with that island and the North end

of square cliff. , ,. xt • i +

Mikuni Roads.-This place is about 58 miles southward of Nanao, in iat.
36° 12' N long. 136° 8' E. The U.S.S. Shenandoah came here in 1867.

The approach to Mikuni roads is bold to within half a mile from the shore,
when the soundings vary from 9 to 6 fathoms.

The best anchorage is to bring the West end of Assinia Island to bear N. ;
then steering North or South, as the case may be, until the mouth of Mikuni
Eiver (which is easily distinguished) bears E.S.E., when 7 fathoms will be
found ; bottom sand and hard mud ; good holding ground. The course can
then belaid E.S.E., steering for the entrance, and, as the soundmgs are gra-
dual, suitable water may be found for an anchorage. There is bold water
off the West side of Assinia Islands.

The town of Mikuni is said to contain about 10,000 inhabitants, and their
exports silk and dried fish. It is situated on the right bank of the river,
about half a mile from its mouth; the bar has only « feet at low water.

TSUIIUGA ILVY.

6G3

9 long, parallel
tne point of land
QO peculiar fea-
iB you approach
m the southern
South entrance,
ictions than the

by S. i S., and
3r to the North
lannel bluff and
but do not got
there -with only
ge. In passing
' on the northern
:owardB the har-

quite rocky, with
;o the distance of

y compass, until
end of Mejima ;
in line with the

ire cliff bears E.

i water. This is

6-foot spot, which
d the North end

of Nanao, in lat.

lere in 1867.

le from the shore.

Island to bear N. ;
mouth of Mikuni
7 fathoms will be
The course can
loundings are gra-
ere is bold water

ibitante, and their
)ank of the river,
cot at low water.

Rise and fall of tide about 9 feot. The anchorage in tlie outer roads ia
exposed from S.W. round West to North, but completely sheltered from
uU other winds.

WAKASA BAY, an opening 25 miles wide, commences at 18 miles beyond
]^Iikuni. At its S.E. angle is Tsuruga Bay, and in tho S.W. angle ia
Myadsu, both visited by the Shenandoah in 1867.

TSURUGA BAY, in lat. 35^ 39' N., long. 136" 4' E., is a largo inlot, which
extends to within 10 miles of the Biwa Lake, and from this possesses some
importance, as the capital of Japan is near the S.W. end of the lake, and it
has been proposed to connect the bay with Oosaka by a railroad.

The American directions follow -.-Approaching Tsuruga Bay from the
northward, steer so as to be distant 6 miles from the North end of Tama-
gawa when it is brought in lino with Ibo Point; then steer S.E. i S. until
a triangular white cliff, to the left of the town, is opened, when bring it to
bear S. J E., and then steer for it until the first prominent point on the loft
of the bay, going in, is brought to bear E. by N. J N. ; then steer S. -i W.
to the anchorage.

This harbour is very easy of ingress and egress, and, so far as is known,
free from rocks. No soundings under 13 fathoms until you get well in the
harbour ; the western shore should be avoided.

It is said that during autumn and winter a heavy swell sets in Avhen tho
wind is from the northward and westward. The land around is high. The
town of Tmruga is at the head of tho bay, and contains about 15,000 iu-
habitnnts ; exports, dried fish and rice. Good lime is made in the neighbour-
hood of Tsuruga. Else and fall of the tide 2 feet.

Myadsu, in lat. 35" 32' N. ; long. 135° 15' E., the southernmost of the
Okino Islands, bears N.E. J E., distant about 8 miles from tho entrance to
Myadsu, which is an excellent harbour, completely landlocked, with good

holding ground.

With this island on that bearing, steer S.W. i W. between Whale Point
and Okatashima, then steer S.W. a S. until at the mouth of the harbour,
when steer direct for the battery. The soundings from the mouth of the
liarbour will gradually decrease from 11 to 7 and 6 fathoms to abreast of the
town, with bottom of sticky mud. The best anchorage is on a North line
Irom'the battery in about 8 fathoms, with mud bottom and good holding-
ground. At the right of the town, and off a red sand-bank about 150 yards,
a sounding of 1 fathom was found.

This is a harbour easy of ingress and egress, free from dangers ; the shoal-
est water is on the western shore ; a rock exists on the' eastern side of the
entrance between the two inner points. Keep raid-channel, and you will
carry good water up to the anchorage.

The town contains about 12,000 inhabitants. Silk is manufactured in the
neighbourhood, and this is a great mart for dried fish. A four-gun battery

■ J.t ^ V 'J WW . g

THE WEST COAST OF NIPON.

Tlie riao iind fall of tho tido is

6G4

is erected in front of the Dumio'H residtnice.

barolv iiorceplible.

OKI ISLAND8.-Tho Oki group consist of ono large and a group of thren
smaller islands, and a number of islots and rocks. Thoy lie N.E. and 8.W.
of each other, and occupy an extent of 23 miles in that direction Ihere is
an open and apparently safe channel botwoen the largo islands and thegroup

of smaller ones. , ,

Oklsima, the N.E. or largest island, about 10 miles m d.ame er, has a
number of detaciiod high rocks close to its northern point, xvhich is steep
and clitfy Its S.W. extreme is remarkable from its terminating in a high
steep bluff; its S.E. point is comparatively low. The highest part of the
island was estimated at 3,000 feet elevation.

The group of three islands is about 9 miles in diameter, and probably
good anchorage may be found as there are deeply indented bays. The North
point of Nisi »ima, the western of the three, rises to a sharp peak of 1,700
foet elevation. The other two are about half that height. They ap-
pear to be thickly populated, and the hills are cultivated to their summits.
Mino Sima is in lat. 34^ 47' N., long. 131° T E., and 20 miles distant
from the northern coast of the province of Nagato, which forms the foot of
Nipon Its highest part, elevated 492 feet, is in the centre of its West side.
Its sides appear steep and cliffy, except on the N.E., where there is a sandy
bay. A large square rock lies half a cable off its eastern point, and there is

an islet on its N.W. side. . -^ <•

NATSUNGTJ SAKI, or Square Eock Point, is the northern extremity ot
the western prolongation of the toe of Nipon ; it is 20 miles S.S.W. of Mi.m
sima and 30 miles northward of the western entrance of the Inland bea. It
appeared to be about 700 feet high, with a nippled outline, bordered by
high cliffs on tho North, and slightly tapering towards the sea, where it was
about 500 feet in iieight. It may be easily known by the remarkable square
rock or head springing from its base, and which, being entirely detached
from the high land of the point, gives it the appearance of an island. Seen
at the distance of 24 mUes from the N.E., it assumes the appearance of
gently shelving table-land, having three or four large notches, the sharp
cone of Aoumi sima and the distant summit of Kabuto yama showing to the
eastwaid. This sharp and remarkable cone, of 700 feet elevation, marks
the eastern point of the deep bay of Fukugawa.

CAPE LOUISA, or Takayama, E. by S. i S. 24 miles from Mmo sima,
is a remarkable sharp peak, 1,800 feet in height, on a projecting and very
prominent point of the coast, 34 miles E. by N. i N. from Square Eock
Point. This peak appears quite isolated as seen from the vicinity of Square

Eock Point. ^ , ^ . ^ , o

Ai Sima, or Bichard's /siawrf.— Between Square Eock Point and Cape
Louisa there is a large bay, with many islands on it, generally about 200 ft.

WEST COAST OF KIUSIV

GOfi

all of tlio tido is

u group of thrpc
, N.E. and 8.W.
oction. There \s
ids and the group

diameter, luis a
t, which ia ateop
linating in a high
jhcbt part of the

Br, and probably
bay8. The North
n-p peak of 1 ,700
light. They ap-
. to their summits.
20 miles distant
forms the foot of
of its West side,
re there is a sandy
)oint, and there is

thern extremity of
es S.S.W. of Miiio
he Inland Sea. It
tline, bordered by
B sea, where it was
remarkable square
; entirely detached
of an island. Seen
the appearance of
notches, the sharp
ima showing to the
3t elevation, marks

IS from Mine sima,

projecting and very

from Square Kock

le vicinity of Square

ck Point and Cape
nerally about 200 ft.

high, and llat-topped, with clilly inaccessible sides. The largest aro Ai mma
and sima. Ji ximu, the outer, is midway between the above capos and
just within the chord of the-bay ; it is olovatcd 400 ft., having a llat-toppod
liiU in its coiitvo. .^unii, o miles East of Al sinia, is also -KIO fi'ot high,
but longer and flatter. Aoumi sima, 4.i miles in length Euist and West, is
10 miles East of Square Eock Point, its western point being the bharp cono
before alluded to. On tho Japanese oliart there is represented between
this island and tho coast, a finely sheltered and capacious harbour called

Misumi,

Between Ai sima and the East part of Aouuii sima the Saracen s track
survey represents four doubtful islets, which do not appear on tho Japaneso

manuscript.

Igama Bay is an inlet running in 7 miles in any easterly direction on tho
South side of Square liock Point. The north-western corner would appear
to afford the best anchorage, but no part of it has been explored.

Kado Sima {Douhh Wedge Island of Eiohards) is 1 mile off the South
point of entrance to Igama Bay. It is 2.} miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W.,
and of very peculiar formation as seen from the North, being divided nearly
equally into two very flat quoins, the points of the wedges being both to the
westward, and their steep fallo to the East,

Simonoseki Strait.— From this island the coast trends southward to the
entrance of Simonoseki Strait (page 601}), which is approached by a very
even and gradually decreasing depth. The shore should be given a berth,
as, where surveyed or seen, it was found to be very rocky.

WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.

KOTSU SIMA, or Colnett Island, the name by which it is more usually
known Ues in the Korea Strait, nearly midway between the East coast of
Tsu sima and the western entrance of the Inland Sea. In clear weather it
can be seen from Iki Island, Tsu sima and th? coast. It is a mile wide at
its broadest part; its sides are steep, with a high cliff at tho N.E. point,
and rise with slight irregularities to a central peak >S00 ft. high. At a great
distance the slopes appear even. Four notched rocl.o or islets, 80 feet high,
and visible 12 miles, lie 4 cables S.E. by S. of the South point.

Orono Sima {Obreo Island), in lat. 33^ 52' N., long. ISO" 0' E., and 37
miles W by S of the Siro simas at the entrance of the Inland Sea, is a
double-topped island, the South hill of which, and the higher, is elevated
about 300 feet. It is about a mile in diameter. There appear to be no
dangers between this island, Colnct, Iki, Tsu sima, and the entrance of the

Inland Sea. ., ,„ . .,

Kosime no oo sima, or mison Island, lying about 2 miles ofi tho northern
coast of Kiusiu, is remarkable from its prominent position oft the entrance ot

fi06 WKST COAST OF KIUSIU.

the Inland Sea. It is somewhat il.it, with a hill H5 1 loot hiwh rising from
its centre, surnicunted by a largo . lunip of trees, and is visible in clour
weather at .')() miles.

A shoal extends to the eastward from the S.E. part of this island, having
3 fathoms on the outer end at a distance of (1 cables.

OENKAB NADA is the sea comprised between Iki Island, Wilson Island,
and the mainland. The numerous islands within it are gt orally safe of
approach, and the adjacent watiTS are singularly free froui danger. Not so
the eastern part of the Genkar nada, where lie three very dangerous tidal
and sunken rocks. The soundings appear very oven, except in the vicinity
of these rocks ; the bottom is sandy or gravelly.

A steamer taking this route only effects a saving of 8 or 10 miles, but a
sailing vessel proceeding to the southward would benefit considerably by
keeping inshore in the Genkar nada out of the north-easterly current, and
taking advantage of the tides, which are pretty regular, by dropping a kedgo

when unable to make way.

The COAST.— From abreast Wilson Island the hills decrease in elevation
from the double peaks over Kanega saki, the West point of the North (^oast
of Kiusiu towards the South, but high mountains are seen in the interior.
Southward of Katsura saki (which has a reef U mile South of it), and off it,
is a small conspicuous tree islet, the coast becoming moderately low and
wooded. Thence a low strip of sand-hills terml-vates in the North entrance to
Hakosaki Bay.* Ai sima is an island of table land, 200 feet high, on which a
single tree shows very conspicuously. On the S. shore of Hakosaki Bay is a
largo city, called Fukuoka, the capital and fortress of the Prince of Mino, one of
the seven most powerful of the independent Daimios. Siga sima, with rocks to
the W. of it, off the entrance of the bay, is even and wooded, as is also Nakosi
or No-ko-no sima, a mile to the South. Genkar sima or lieed Island, round-
topped and steep-sided, with a ninepin rock 4 cables N.W. of it, lies off the
projection of the main at the South side of the entrance of the bay. The passage
South of Eeed Islend has only 3 fathoms on it. From Eeed Island the face of
a hilly promontory extends S.W. 9 miles, and on it are two bays, prol^ably
affording anchorage. Kusaya, the S.AV. point of the promontory, is a bluff,
H mile W. of which is Hime sima or Hill Island, about 600 feet in height, with
a gravel spit to 6 cables S. of it. South-westward of Kusaya Point is another
deep bay,t with mountanious shores, which rise to a fine peak upwards of
2,000 feet in height.
Yebosi sima or Cone Islet, 128 feet high, 27 miles S.W. by W. f W.^f

"^ RMS Centaur, J. H. Lawrence, Master, R.N., anchored, in 1861, in this vicinity in
a bay culled Itto-iima, in 12 fathoms, mud bottom and good holding-ground, and protected
from all northerly winds ; the North point of Ueed Island be:.riug S.W. by VV. i W.

t The town or fortress of Karatsu or Karaouo, belonging to the Prince of Satou, is at
the bottom of the southern arm of this bay.

SWAIN HKKF— KAdAKA.

(WlT

nil rising from
vimblu ia cluur

I JHland, having

Wilson Island,
: arally safe of
lan>j,er. Not so
dtingorouB tidul
)t in the vicinity

10 miles, but a
considerably by
rly current, and
popping a kedgo

aaso in elevation
the North (ioast
I in the interior,
of it), and off it,
leratoly low and
[orth entrance to
ligh, on which a
akosaki Bay is a
ieof Mino, one of
na, with rocks to

as is also Nakosi
ed Island, round-
of it, lies off the
aay. The passage
Island the face of
) bayS; prnV>ably
jntory, is a blutf,
)et in height, with
I Point is another

peak upwards of

L by W. ^ AV. of

)1, in this vicinity in
■ound, and protected
V. by VV. i W.
'rinco of Siitou, is at

Wilson IMand. and 12 miles 8. by W. i W. of Oruno MUia, lies in tho contn.
of tiio southern part of the Genkar nada, and is a most useful guide to avoid
its dangiTs.

Swain Reef, tho principal of tlioso dangers, originally placed ^i miles
westward by Mr. Swain, II.M.S. Jioibuck, 1800, lies in tho fairway, 10 miles
S.W. by W. of Wilson Island, 10 miles K.N.K. of Cone Islet, and l.'i mihm
E.S.E. of ( >rono nima. It is nearly J cables in extent, and scarcely cov(>ri.«d ;
some rocks on its eastern part are nearly always seen, being 5 feet above
low water. There are 1(1 fathoms near the edge of tho roof, deepening to 10
and 20 fathf>ms, sand and gravel.

Ellis Reef, lying S.W. t) miles from Swain Reef, is another danger more
out of the fairway of vessels making a direct course through tiie (Jenkar
nada. It lies E. J N. 8J^ miles from Cone Island, and W. by N. .'Ji miles
from the rock off Reed Island. It never quite uncovers, but in bad weather
tho heads of the rocks arc seen. One mile S.S.E. of the reef is rocky ground,
with soundings of 4 to 10 fathoms.

Dove Reef, on which some small brown rocks were seen, is .'5 miles S.W.
' S. of the Ellis. It may be passed at a mile o". the outside in I'J fathoms,

tine sand.

M «//««.— Tlireo clusters of rocks and islets (two in a cluster), M to 20
feet above low water, lie eastward of the large island of Iki. Richards
places the eastern 4 miles N.W. i W. of Cone Islet.

IKI, the largest island off the N.W. coast of Kiusiu, is 10 miles long,
North and South, and 9 miles at its widest part. It is of sandstone forma-
tion, chiefly table land, the southern part rising to an elevation of 680 feet,
and its N.E. hill to 470 feet. There are many islands and reefs off its
shores, the deep indentations of which afford anchorage in rather deep water
in sheltered harbours, of which Moro yosi on the East coast, Ilono ura on
the S.W., and Ina minato on the West are the best. Katzmota ura, at the
N.W. part of the island, was a wild-looking anchorage, where the swell was
seen breaking heavily in fine weather. A vessel may also anchor on the
North coast, with the North hill bearing S.E.

A rock, having only 8 feet at low water on it, lies three-quarters of a mile
South of the two outermost low flat rocks, Shimo Idzumi and Kami Idzumi,
off the East coast of Iki sima ; the whole of that East coast is much encum-
bered by ledges of rocks, extending some distance from the shore.

Kagara ( Chmtian Maud) is the centre and largest of three islands off tho
main, 8i miles S.E. of Iki. Bum, the eastern islond of the three, is low,
with a clump of trees on its S.E. head, a good object to steer for in passing
through the channel East of Bunn. There is a rock 4 cables off tlio South
part cf K-.gara. Mat s'ma, lying close off the S.W. part of Kadara, has
rocks off its extremes.

l\imigc Rcvj; a largo struggling patch of low flat rugged rocks, lies 1 mile

WKST COAST OF KH'SIl

E.8.E. of Uiinn iHlnnil. Th« two lii-;li(Ht rocks <.n it, ubout 20 foot higli, on
opn of whitli tlKTo in a htoii.' boa.on, are tho only parts which hhow ut u

distanro.

Yobuko H...bour is a complote ly lun.l-h.ck.Ml inlot, li to 2 ciblrs bio.i.l,
running in li niih' Hoiitliwiinl of tho inhiiid Kabu Hinm. whicli fronts its
tsntriinco, ami (lividcB its approach into two thannels. Tho junks iiso tho

cantctrn paHsugo.

Tho western entrance is broad, bohl and deep. It can be easily retoj,'-
nizod by a remarkable 8<iuaro clump of trees on tho low point {IMo mli)
forming tho western boundary of tho outer bay. In 18(10 Il.M.S. Pionen-
am^hored in 1 1 fathoms of Ibiko village, at the entrance on tho western

shoro.

JIato saki, tho West point of entrance to Yobuko, is low and rocky, with a
remarkable square clump of lir trees on it, which makes like an islet when
first seen froci the south-westward. Tho coast to the southward is much in-
dented, with long rocky points extending from the shore into deep water.
The groat bay of fmari is unexplored.

Madara Sima, or Covey hland, lies 7 miles S. by E. of the South point of
Iki, and appears bold on all sides. Its West peak, 630 feet high, falls
steeply to the sea over a cliff-bound shore. Off the West point is a rock.

mahami, 9i miles W. by N. of Madara, is a saddle- shaped island, ;V20
foot high, with a rock or islet half a mile to the N.W. of it. The outlying
Ko-futahmi Hock is 2 miles further in the same direction.

Atsusi no Sima, or Harbour Island, 13 miles 8.W. by S. of Iki, is irre-
gular in shape, and 4i miles poross from East to West. It is rather high,
the northern and S.E. hills being the two highest. Its coasts are bold, tho
only known danger being a small rock 6 cables olf tho middle part of tho
N.W. coast, about U milo N.E. by N. of its south-western point.

Port Lindsay, on tho SouJi side of the island, is a large bay open to tho
South, and too deep for convenient anchorage. Although tho bay is open
and opposed to the South, there is not fetch enough to allow much sea to
rise. The western point of entrance is low and flat.

Bo sima, a mile South of Atsusi no sima, has some rounacd summits of
moderate elevation, showing smooth bare rocky sides. There is anchorage
on its South side, West of Yoka sima, one of two islets to tho S.E.

Ikutski, or Ykitsk Island, SJ miles in length North and South, lies close
off the N.W. point of Hirado, separated from it by the Obreo Channel. Its
North point, off which is a rock, has an overhanging cliff of considerable
height, facing the West, but which slopes gently to the East.

Obree Channel, about 4 cables wide, has been ascertained to be quite
clear, with a depth of 15 fathoms in the middle. The Saracen anchored
just inside it off tho south-oast shore of Ikutski, in 7 fathoms, in a snug
bay, at about a quarter of a mile off a village. The vossed passed North

' i^^m -

""ll

20 foot, liigli, «>n
rhich bUow ut u

2 ciililcH hi'Otid,
which fronts its
II junks iiso tlio

bo euflily recojj;-

oint {IFato sah')

II. M.S. riuneer

on tho westorii

nd rocky, with ii
CO an islet when
wind is much iii-
into deoi) water.

e South point of
foet higli, falls
oint is a rock,
laped island, 320
t. The outlying

S. of Iki, is irro-
It is rather high,
sts are bold, tho
liddle part of tho
point.
3 bay open to tho

tho bay is open
llow much sea to

inucd summits of
lere is anchorage
lie S.E.

South, lies close
iree Channel. Its
iff of considerable

.St.

;ained to be quite

Saracen anchored

athoms, in a snug

38ed passed North

niK.Mx' ()i{ 1 U{.\Ni)o isi,.\Ni), I'/rr.

660

and Wost of an ishit and a rock lying iii tho fairway 2 milo« to tho north-
..astwurd. A largo ship should not keep too closo to tho south-oast point of

Ikutski.

HIRADO or FIRANDO ISLAND, Id miios in longtli N.lv nnd N.W.,
ftiul, owing t<. its d.'cply indented coast lino, of un irregular l.rea<Uli of I to
5 miles, lies adjacent to tho West coast of Kiusiu, from which it is separated
by Apex Strait. Ilirado is high and hilly, and much wooded, and its coasts,
wherever explored, have boon foui. I very bold. Tlio S.mtrm passed in doi>p
water through tho Obroo Channel along its West .'oast, inside tho Aska sima
or Sisters, and rounded tho islets off its S.W. point at a mile. Over Bisiki
saki. tho South point of Ilirado, there ri.. s precipitously a remarkably sharp
peak, and !\l miles in a south-westerly direction from tho point is Sail (or
U'liifr) Rod, tho position of which has not been very correctly '.determined.

The PORT of FIRANDO, situate on the "NVcst side of the northern point
of nirado, was, previous to 1G2;J, tho chief location of British and .)thor
foreign trade with Japan, which from that period was restricted to tho Dutch
at Nagasaki. It was visited by H.M.S. Itochuck in IHJy, and described as a
spncious harbour running East and West, 2 miles deep, and sheltered from
nil winds. A good guide to recognize its positiou is ii small island lying off
the North point of entrance.

There are three islets in the harbour, and good ancthorago in 1 fathoms
between the southern islot and tho shore. The deep arm running to tho
South just within the entrance was not examined. The large town of
Firando stands on the narrow nock between the head of the harbour and

Spex Strait.

SFEZ STRAIT (also called Ilirado Strait), between Ilirado and a pro-
montory of Kiusiu, is about 10 miles in length, ind navigable without diffi-
culty by steamers, but as the tides at springs are stated to run with great
strength through the narrow channel* at its northern part, whore for 2 miles
tlio whole breadth of tho strait is only 3 cables, and the navigable channel at
one part only IJ cable, a sailing vessel cannot be taken through with safety
without a commanding breeze, which, to be relied on, must blow directly

through the strait.

Entering hy the North, the channel becomes suddenly contracted to H cable
West of a rock 10 foet abovo high water, lying in mid-stroam at the entrance,
and 2 cables North of the small wooded head of Furato saki on Kiusiu.

• This is the dangerous part of tho strait, the groat strength of the tides over tho uneven
bottom, &c., causing small whirlpools to be I'ormod in the middle of tho cliannel. It is
indispensable, therefore, especially for a large ship, to have good steerage way, which
must he kept even with a favouring tide to ensure safety.— Capt. .T. Borlaso, II.JI.S. I'cart,
and J. S. Compton, Master K.N., H.M.S. Renard, 18G1. t'ommandor II. A. Koilly,
II.M.S. Fionea; 1860, states that the dangers are few, and clearly marked with stono
beacons.

.... WEST COAST OF KU'Sir.

Vassin. within a cable West of this rook, a ^:. i W. oourso should bo sto.red
Uo Hue Kiusiu shoro. .o as to avoid s.nc rnks .hioh break, .xtoud.u,
W tho Finuulo .horo as far as .ud-.hanuol. and a^o a .-fathoms patch otl
the island in front of th« town of Firando. , . , , ,

After pas«inp the Paimio's (Prince of Iti) residence, which .tands em-
botw n rel and can be recognised by the white wall along the sh.vre
thill rounds it, tho course beconu. S.E. by S. and S.W. by S^ ronnd the
^tht losito th point «outh-eastward of the residence, otl whuh po.nt,
N N E 2 cables dLvnt, is a rock 4 feet above high water^ In rounding
t)ie bend the Kiusiu shore need not be kept very close abosird.

When proceeding by this route, it will frequently be found necessary to
anchor for the night, at which time tho strait can seldoni be passed The
r": have usualU-anehored ll.M. ships in K..aU^ or A....«. .tnaU^d on
Ihe East side of Uirado. Another anchorage is eastward of Kuro mma^

Ta.k. Bay. at the northern part of the strait, is 1 1 caWe in length and in
breadth. There is access to the bay by both channels, but there are only .
fathoms in that South of the island in the Iront.

Directions from tho soMw.mi will be given hereafter.
Ot«te Island and Bonnet Islet, the fonner a mile N.W of the latter
and 10 miles S.S.E. of Hirado, lie directly in the tairway between ILrado
and Nagasaki. One mile N.W. by W. i W. of Orate are two islets, and ^ .
b^E !^; half a mile, a rock awash ; and again, 3 miles North, a sunken
rick has been reported. These are tho only known dangers otl the group
which may be passed on either hand.

Yenoi Sima, 600 feet high, is H miles westward of Otate, and its eastern
side which borders on the channel, is bold, but from South round to N.N .A .
of L island are many scattered islets, rocks, and reefs, which render the
navigation between it and Hira sima, 2^ miles to tlie westward, e.xtromelj

hazardous. , , rr„.,

Tho southern, part of these outlying groups is the most dangerous. T. o
islet. loO and 50 feet high. West and S.S.W. !■> and 1 J mile respectively
from'tbe South point ,a small head) of Yenoi sima, are the most noticeable.
The outermost is 5^ W. 3.i miles from the peak of the island.

Hiki Sima is a partially cultivated island, apparently U mile long, about
oso feet high, with a remarkable rounded hummock (cone-shaped) at its
S E extreme, connected with the main body of tho island by a long strip
of shore; reefs appe^ired to extend about three-quarters of a mile off the
NorUi side of the island. The easternmost of the Sumo sima group is fully
Llmilo ertstward of the other two rocks, with a clear deep-water passage
between. The outer rock of the Sumo sima group is a pinnacle rock, with
an ai-ch thnmgh it. .. , , ^- ..

A danjjcruu. reef runs parallel to and distant about 1 mile from the North

10 shiMild bo stocrod
h break, extouiliiis;
'J-fiitboms piitcU otV

», which stands om-
•iill iiloug tho short)
\V. by S. round th.-
e, oil." which point,
•liter. In rounding
3oard.

» foimd necessary to
!oui be passed. Tho
Kaicatnu, situated on
d of Kuro sima.
le in length and 1 in
but there are only '2

N.W. of the latter,
rtay between llirado
»re two islets, and N.
iles North, a, sunken
[angers otf the group

Otate, and its eastern
juth round to N.N.AV.
(efs, which render the
) westward, extremely

uost dangerous. Two
id IJ mile respeotiyely
re the most noticeable.
> island.

;ly IJ mile long, about
k (cone-shaped) at its
sland by a long strip
irters of a mile off the
imo sima group is fully
sar deep-water passage
s a pinnacle rock, with

t 1 uiilc from the North

THE OOTO ISI..\NT>S-KlTKrVK.

671

side of tho island. A nuk. on which tho sea breaks, lies :» cables K. by
S. J S, from tlie eenta-o of tho island.

■Uho nroilnr., pUued in lat. ^r •»« N., long. 121V 2,V K., if existing at all.
which is somewhut d.mbtfnl. nuist be very small or sunk... rocks, li.ey
have not been seen of late. They are, liowovor, placed on tho latest Dutch
survey of ISAS.

The GOTO ISLANDS.— This mountainous chain of many islands, lying
between the parallels of :V2' 'M' and 3a° '20' N., is .00 miles in oxtoni in a
N E and S W. direction, and from 5 to 20 miles in breadth. Several im-
portant islands and rocks have been discovered on the .nistern side by Comm.
Erooker in II.M.S. S,,lvia, in 1800. The chain may bo passed through n.t..
the Korea Strait by six channels, all of which, judging from those parts
which have been surveyed and from tho nature of tho coast, probably carry
deep water.

Kosaka Channel, the northern of these channels through tho group, was
entered bv fl.M. ships Dor,^ and Leven at dusk, from tlio eastward, Soutli of
the smairisland Mntz sm,, 12 fathoms being the least water obtained m
the passage, which is ab.uit three-quarters of a milo in breadtli. iku
,i,na or JMo is high, witli low land stretching towards its East pmi^.
The mn1.,e J^ock, the only known danger in this vicinity, is about a mile
North of tho outermost of several islets which extend 10 miles West of

Kosaka.

Kuga Channel—The Saracen, after leaving Nagasaki, stood across to tho
Goto Islands, and, entering the Naru Channel East of Kaba sima, worked
to the westward, and anchored in i/«rrfy Harbour, a snug anchorage on he
S W side of Naru sima, and in the Kagu Channel. This is a small inlet,
C cables in length North and South, and 3 to 4 in breadth. There is an
islet (Observatorj-) at its entrance, and 1 mile South the larger island Mia
sima, of two parts connected by a shingle spit, gives protecUon from that
quarter.

Within Observatory Islet tho water is deep, decreasing from 16 to 5
fathoms close up to the head of the harbour, but the more convenient deptli
of 6 to 7 fathoms may be obtained by anchoring W.N.W. of the islet and
rather nearer to the opposite shore. The Kuga Channel was then examined
and found to carry deep water, 26 to 32 fathoms, with exceedingly bold
shores, and not the leasfindication of unseen dangers.

FUKUYE, or Fukai, the chief town of the Goto Islands, and the fortress
of the Daimio, Gotjima Saijemma no Djo, is situate on the shore of an open
roadstead on the north-eastern side of Fukuye sima, the southern and
largest island of the chain, and southward of the Fukuye Channel, which
separates it from Kuga sima.

1 1

^,, WEST COAST OF KlUBir.

u72 _ -v * ('

CAPE GOTO or 0,e SaW, . «.e «AV. V^^^^;:;l ^.t:'.

a nght angle. Beh^nd^ ox no ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^.^^ ^^^^

rcountains about N.N.W. ot eacn cm ;, f extremity of tlio

coast, wliich extondB E.S.E 3 miles ir i ^ ^.^^

of which i8 320 feet high. Eeefs stretch oi ^^^^_

C C; ami:N.«'w. of T.«ta«, «e fte two U.e« m..n.o e..a,
,itl, deep water midway betweoB. ^^^ ^^

„;.:et^:::LC-:erarL':reJro„^
-xrrr;::ret;a.ar.o*tor...*^^^^^^^^

.ide „£ Fukoyo Bima, is finely situated « " P" ;' f '"'- ^^J 1„^ ;,

44 m-to N.N E. of Cape »o'". » ,,j^ „, g ,i.ero .s

which i, li -'= ■; ;°f , Jit ,S sLtered from all weeterly winds,
good anchorage in 7 to 8 lalhoms, q __^.^j^^^^

1-he entrance to Tama no °™ J" » """ ;*; ^A^t Cape GoU,, and
for a Wind opening 2 cables wide, only 2 miles iior

'"f ■'""if:rrrit^Xhr.r:::;ng h...dtbof , . .

XXlteireTtho'coast-lincforOm^^^^^^^^^^

,e.hy abelt of ^1^^^^:^^! ^eV wiLn the
:;::: °: r: rfltt^tca^mg gradually .o le a. its bed, render.

'- VrrrS:;=C,t:drreXt'Ir., .He harbour
Directly s^uth-e-0*^."^- . ^ ^^^ .__ ^^^^ ^^^ ^ „,„,.

r:t Cb o malir» Wnd m th. c,n.re of this part ef the h.rbo»,
from the "erth »" "^^ ^ „ ,„t^„„,, ,hi„h offer .ncborago, open only

.here are -nd 3 of^» an ^^^ ,^_^^^ __^ ^,^^ ^,.__^ ^__,^^„

ur aloraro'" >0 ^ " """- """° '^ ""*' °^ *° '°"'* ''""
°^ ^'"''" u f„r larire ships will be found at tho S.E. part of the

,l::t iTtZi-Xtr -H the pea. of Besbi yam., which

nil

HAY AND LIGHTHOUSE OF NAGASAKI.

r,73

I sima. Not of
ping 4") fathoms
from tlie cape at
rise three fine
oys, of which the
extremity of the
akara Point, tlie
quarter of a milo
1 J cable off it to

m of the two hills
West points. To
is a large rectan-
1 centrally in the
ets Hitango sima,

ir the extremity of
irly a mile, and the

sea on the Avestera
1, and, but for its
ts only entrance is
island Saga sima,
i of Saga, there is
1 westerly winds,
ist not be mistaken
of Cape Goto, and

; breadth of 3 to 7
separated from the
St runs S. by W. H
'ho depth within the
at its head, rcnder-

tiou.

I shore, the harbour
igth. East, 3 cables
part of the harbour,
mchorage, open only
blind entrance there
of the South shore

the S.E. part of the
f Boshi yama, which

is seen ahead when standing up the harbour, bearing fro-n S.W. by A\ . to
•W S W.— (Mr. W. Blackney, E.N., H.M.S. Alyerine, 18G1.)

From Tama no ura the coast runs North about 5 miles from Algoriue
Bluff, falling to a low point, the north-western promontory of Fukuye, which
is fronted by shelving rocks. Uinie sima is separated from thl. pomt by a
channel a mile wide, in which was seen a rock awash.

The BAY of NAGASAKI is formed to the northward of a peninsula of
the same name,* between the headlands Nome saki and Oho saki, which lie
North and South of each other, distant 15 miles apart. The bay is fronted
by a chain of islands and reefs which quite shelter the harbour, which is an

arm or inlet at its head.

Directiy East of Oho saki, the northern point of the bay, is a largo and
unexplored anchorage named Mikasa, open only to the S.W. At half a mile
S W of Tan saki, the eastern point of this bay, is A'otako sima, and b.VV.
half amUe from Kotako sima is a high sugar-loaf islet, inside which reefs
have been observed breaking.

NAGASAKI LIGHTHOUSE.— A lighthouse has been oroctod on the end
of a narrow ridge 189 feet above the sea, distant U cable from the extreme
North point of Iwo sima. The Ught wiU bo shown from an iron tower about
34 feet high, hexagonal in shape, painted white, with a gilt baU on tho top.
It is not known when the light will bo exhibited.

Iwo sima and Oki sima appear as one long island, although separated by
a narrow boat-passage. They lie in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and are of
undulating outline, the eastern summit of Iwo, the outer of tho two, being
400 feet in height. Signal Head, the north-western point of this island, is
a good guide for entering the bay. It is bold, and may be rounded at 3
cables distance in 25 fathoms. On its summit, which is cleared of trees,
there is a signal-staff and look-out house, from which the arrival of vessels
is telegraphed to Nagasaki. _

Oki of much the same height as Iwo, is more wooded, especially its
southern summit. There is access to tho harbour by the channel East of
Oki, between it and Koyaki.

Hirase Rock, which covers at high water only, lies 4 cables from the
eastern shore of Iwo, and E. by S. J S., 11 cables from Signal Head, and
although not directly in the fairway, is in the route of vessels beating
in and out. There do not appear to bo any other dangers near it. It
covered, the bluff of Papenburg Island, bearing E. i S., leads 3 cables

North of it. «• u a w

Sotonohirase Rook, also covering at high water, is 9 cables oil the &.w.
shore of Iwo, and S. by W. i W. H mile from Signal Head. It is steep-

• Niigaauki means Long Capo.

North Pacific.

074 NAGASAKI, ETC.

to in 17 fathoms on the outside, but this depth is -"^^if ;";^;;;*
running one mile N.W. by W. from the rork, Us outor part xn 18 fathoms
bel^T W.S.W. n mile from Signal Head, with 37 to 38 fathom, on

'"^tsnose and Kurose Rocks.-The Kutsnose. 10 feet above high water,
lies innhoro of tho Sotonohiraso, at 1 i cable from Iwo. ,,.,,„,,

The Kurose is a largo straggling reef, of which the southern aad lughos^
part is 6 feet above high water. North and KW^ of >t severd reef^ d^ m
parts on the foul rocky ground between it and the South end of Oki, from
which it is distant 4 cables. .

Taka Sima at n miles S. by W. of Signal Head, has a precipitous r.dge,
.^SZ high on its easLn side, and a smaller ridge over tbe d^s on
its western or sea-face. Its shores are very xn.gged with r^'^^-'^J^^'^^l^
cables off itsNorth and West points. '^'-^ «-" ;«'7^^^' t^i^';, '^
high, Toli .ma to the North, and Futako sima, two islands, on the South, lie
in lino. North and South of its East face. The latter two are connec ed
together, and fringed by reefs. There are coal mines m operation on the

'=1?. tl'THtl S^a, u - . .u» « ., w. .a S...^^P«■

tively from the summit of Taka sima, are smooth-topped islands, about 120
feet in height, with rocky shores, and with reefs extending more than a
latle off their southern points. Nagano sima is 4 cables S.W. of Hi sima,
there being deep water, about 14 or 10 fathoms, in the passage between

*^Mitzuse Rocks, the outermost dangers in the approach to Nagasaki from
the South, lie H miles S.W. of Taka sima, and N W. | W. ^i - es i--
the summit of Cape Nome. They spread irregularly over an extent of half
a mile, the interior rocks of the group covering with the tide Un tht
northernmost rocks are two pointed islets, 60 feet in height, with outlymg
patches on the East and West; the south-eastern of the group is a bare
rock about 6 feet above high water.

C/ -^ NOMO* or Nomo Saki is tho south-western extremity ot the
venMa of Nagasaki. At a distance it has the appearance of an island,
and when nearing, it cannot be mistaken for any other land in its viemity.
From the West or S.W. the island Kaba sima will bo seen off the low pomt
East of the cape. At 6 cables North of the cape is Nomoi/ama Pomt, which
rises steeply to the wooded summit of a prominent hill, Nomoyama, imme-

. The miBtaking of this capo for the South point of Kaba sima led to the ^vteck of tho
Satsu.>a Bteamor. A large ninepiu rock lies 2 cables off the extremity of the cape, wh.ch is
Bun^unded by small low detached rock,, most of which cov.r. Off Kaba Bima the rocks arc
compact and sheh-ing. with a single outlying rock a^vash. There need, therefore, be no
difficulty as to its identity in tho thickest weather.-18e7.

'■'W~

CArE NOMO.

07.)

ntinuod on a spit
part in 18 fathoms
to 38 fathoms on

above high water,

ithern a ad highest
Bveral reefa dry in
h end of Oki, from

a precipitous ridge,
ge over the cliflfs ou

reefs extending U
Dds, about 120 feet
[a, on the South, lie

two are connected
in operation on the

and S.S.W. respec-
d islands, about 120
jnding more than a
es S.W. of Hi sima,
;he passage between

ch to Nagasaki from
i W. 2J miles from
irer an extent of half
h the tide. On the
height, with outlying
the group is a bare

rn extremity of the
earance of an island,
sr land in its vicinity,
seen off the low point
omoyama Point, which
11, Nomoyama, imme-

;ia led to the wreck of tho
jmily of the cape, which is
)ff Kiiba Binia the rocks are
jrs need, therefore, be no

diatoly beneath which, on a small bare shoulder towards the sea, stands a
look-out house. The coast between is broken and rocky, and skirted with
dangerous reefs, which dry out in patches to a quarter of a mile. At 2
cables off the capo is an inaccessible islet called Nomo Rock.

Nomo-ura Harbour, the entrance of which is on the western side of the
peninsula at 1 mile N.E. of Nomoyama Point, is small and perfectly
sheltered, 6 cables in length and from 1 to 2 in breadth. Within, there is a
depth of 5 fathoms, but it is only accessible to small vessels, having not
more than 9 to 10 feet at high water in the deepest part of its narrow
entrance, which is only 100 yards across.

West Coast of Nagasaki PeninstOa.— The coast of the peninsula northward
from Nomoyama Point is bold, with a few outlying rocks, and maybe passed
at 2 or 3 cables, in 10 to 13 fathoms. To the N.E. of Nomo-ura the coast
is low as far as a hilly point 2 miles distant. Off it are several long reefs,
drying out in patches.

The coast for 3 miles N.E. by N. of this hilly point is bold, with sound-
ings of 5 to 9 fathoms near the shore. It lies under a succession of hill
ranges, which terminate at a point abreast a group of rocky islets. North of
which point the small bay of Ookomura affords anchorage in 6 to 8 fathoms.
A conspicuous smooth-topped conical islet South of the islet group is very
noticeable close off this coast.

Suzume, a bare rock, about 50 ft. liigh, is the north-western of this group
of islets. No sima, the southern, and all the other islets, are wooded and low,
and siuTouuded by large reefs.

Koyaki is the largest island off Nagasaki, and is situated directly S.W.
of the entrance, which may be gained by the channels both East and West
of it. This island is not high, but very hilly, its two chief elevations being
362 and 403 ft. Numerous reefs and islets border its broken outline.

JIadagme is probably united to Joka sima, as the large reef on which that
islet stands stretches far towards the rock, as it also does towards Mume-
uoki. Hadagase may be passed at 4 cables on its West side in 26 fathoms.
On the eastern side of Koyaki there is a mass of reefs in the South channel.
The island of Eageno ai)pears part of Koyaki, as it is only separated from
its North point by a narrow boat-pa,ssago. The Naginato or Emgry Rock,
which covers at high water, Ues a cable East of its N.E. point, off which is

a small islet.

Kamino Sima, at 6 cables North of Kageno, is the largest island on the
northern side of the fairway to Nagasaki. Its North hill is elevated 330
feet, and on its central hill, which is lower, is a signal- staff. On the East
side there is a small boat camber ; on the S.W. the small flat island of Siro
mma, on wliich there is a battery, is connected with a work on Kamino sima
by a causeway of masonry.

North-westward of Siro sima are the two small islands Aim sima and

2x2

5?WSi;*v.y(W>'»»'*iWf;>--!'«

U,lj NAGASAKI, ETC.

MM. *». Ain„ .taa. a. H oaM„ .Mam., i, .flat .aH. Wand on a rorf,
„ilh a con«i,ic«ou. ro«k • do.o oft it. South l»mt ; Mat. ..n,a, at 5 laMe,,
r..LlnUU »0 fe,thi,h. There i. deep ,.at.r ia the pa.«,go between

Siro sima and Aino sima. . , <, t.' • ^ oimn nn

Barracouta Eock.-Off Kabuto saM, tho S.E. poxnt o ^^no ^a -
^vhicl, there is a battery, are some small islets. One cable from these, S.W.
: h Tree Eock, Z W. by N. of the South bluff of PapenU^rg, .s the
LLouia, a sunk'en rock, which is the only hidden danger .n he entran
and may be cleared to the southward by keepng the summit of the coa
range (800 foot) over Megami Point open of Papenburg, bearing East. The
sWpVU^^-H struck on a rock hereabout, if it was not the Bairacouta
tck IjiUy 23, 1860. It was considered that the position did not agree
with that of the latter, as given on tho chart.

Papenburg, or Takaboko, 2 cables 8.E. of Kamino sima, is the smaU pre-
Jtous 'w covered witH dark foHage, which so well n^arks the on^vn.
to the harbour. It may bo passed at half a cable m 18 fathom . To the
N.E of it, and distant one-third of a mile, is the small flat wooded i^nd
mu.i si.aA lying off the small bay of EiMsu, East of the large village

The HAEBOUR of NAGASAKI, an arm or inlet nmmng m a north-
easterly direction from the head of Nagasaki Bay, is large and comjnodious,
h roughly sheltered from aU winds, and available for ships of all classes
tml Entrance, which is a quarter of a mile -^e Ween 0,«.. Fo^
on the West and Megami Point on the East, it runs N.E. to the city a dis-
tance of 2 mUes, increasing to a breadth (although irregiJaxly, owing to
several bays on its shores), of three-quaxters of a mile Above the city it
narrows again, taking a northerly direction for another mde to its head
which is exceedingly shallow. The depths decrease gradually from lb
fathoms at the entrance to 3 fathoms off the city.

The only danger at the entrance is a sunken rock, supposed to he about
70 yards South of the East extreme of Ogami Point. A temple stands on
the South extreme of the point. v„Hn^-p«

Megami Point is at tiie foot of a steep ridge, on which are three batteries
one above the other. Within Megami Point 1* cable (a smaU islet lymg
between them) is another point, on the extreme of which, in a battery, is a

remarkable large tree. -r. ... i n w.

The best anchorage for men-of-war is just above the British Consulate

Bluff, large ships anchoring in 6 to 7 fathoms rather over towards Manage

. This rock or islet ^va8 the observing place of Sir Edward Belcher, in 1842, from which
several meridian distances were measured to Lu-chu, Quelpart, &c.
TtHc observing place of Richards in 1856, from which meridian distences were measured
to Hong Kong, Hakodate, &c.

THE CITY OF NAOAHAKI.

077

lo islund on a rooi',
s sima, at 5 cablos,
u passage between

p Kamino sima, on
;e from these, S.W.
Papenbiirg, is the
rer in the entrance,
summit of the coast
bearing East. The
not the Barracouta
sition did not agree

aa, is the small pro-
marks the entrance
18 fathoms. To the
1 flat wooded island
of the large village

limning in a north-
rge and commodious,
p ships of all classes,
letween Ogami Point
.E. to the city a dis-
.rregularly, owing to
. Above the city it
ler mile to its head,
3 gradually from 16

supposed to lie about
A temple stands on

ih are three batteries,
le (a small islet lying
Lch, in a battery, is a

the British Consulate
• over towards Minage

jlcher, in 1842, from which
m distances were measured

roint* at this the broadest part of the deep water of the harbour. Mer-
chant vessels usually anchor off the foreign settlement in 4 to fathoms, or
even above Dosima in 3 fathoms. In the hot weather of July and August,
great relief may be experienced from the closeness of the ntmosphoro, and
it will be beneficial to the health of the crews, to spring the ship's broadside
to the pea breeze, which, in tine weather, is almost constant from the S.W.
and generally very fresh.

The imiwo Bank, which fronts the shore from Dosima to the foreign
settlement, is a good and convenient place for grounding. Its western edge
is steep, but off Desima, W. by S. of the Dutch Consulate flagstaff, the
bank is very flat. This is the spot recommended, especiaUy for small

vessels. .

The harbour has three approa^ihes. The principal one or fairway is
directly from the N.W., the entrance of which, 4 miles outside the harbour,
is between Fakuda saki and Iwo sima, and carries very deep water, 32
fathoms, decreasing to 20 in the passage between Papenburg and Kageno,
and again to 15 and 16 fathoms at the entrance of the harbour.

The second approach is by the Oki Channel, between Oki sima and Ko-
yaki but it is only 3 cables m breadth, and further nan-owed by the reefs
whicii extend into the channel U cable from either shore. There are irre-
gular soundings at 7 to 19 fathoms in it, and the best course through is
midway between the reefs which are seen. Neither this channel nor its
approaches have been yet thoroughly examined.

The third approach is by the South channel, between Koyaki and the
main and can only be used by steam-vessels. Narrow and intricate
amongst the reefs, with soundings varying from 4 to 16 fathoms, it cannot
be recommended, and can only be taken at the risk of the navigator.

The CITY of NAGASAKI, a treaty port, at present second only m im-
portance to Yokohama, and the only place of trade opon to foreigners
between 1623 and 1857, covers a broad vaUey on the eastern side of the
harbour, surrounded by lofty hills. Its population is increasing ; in 1868 it
amounted to nearly 70,000; in 1869, to 100,000. Of this pop.ilation, on
December 3l8t, 1868, there were 214 European and American residents
(including 88 British, 35 American, 32 Dutch) and 629 Chinese ; those last
also were greatly on the increase. Nagasaki is one of the five imperial
cities of Japan, and is under the jurisdiction of a governor holding his ap-
pointment from the Tycoon. „ ^ ,

Desima, the historic site of the Dutch factory, projects into the harbour
on the S W side of the city, to which it is only connected by a stone bridge.
Shaped like the border of a fan, it is 250 yards in length and 80 in width,

• Tho rock on the South side of Minage Point, to whi.li ull Uie meridian distances are
.cfcrrod. is u convenient and quiet spot for taking observations.

- --Kr-sssrtr;

67n

NAOASAKl.

„„d i, traveweJ 1,, a oonhal .tr.«t. D„.im» c'ontain. the re..dence, ..d
J I.r of .J Dutch »..m,„.,t,, tho co„.ulate being «ia..ed at .^
Iw Igl'. At the broad .tep. a. ite We.t end i. tho be.t place te land-

X «om.h„u.e (Japane«) « .ituate dircctl, Ea.t o. U™'. '="• j

net acceeaiblo to boat, before a ,„a«e,.flood. The ;»P°^' »"''^; .'^^

.ill. coal vegetahlownx, gall nate, copper, gold; alw won. arftle. lor

e'chneL market, a. dried f,.h, »a .lug., .ea weed, pea., U^^.

rralwl^C, *: Z7^ -l^ to the ,apau..e Oo,em„e,.t and

'" irn con,n,uai., occupy the .,aare .clud,^ block of hou,e, S E^
of l)e.ta. connected with the .here by a bridge. They eompo,e a tra*.ng
"g^M Td Lory, eubiected for age»^e,e^ '^■'*°' 'Tdt: ca"^
said before, the Chinese population i, increa„ng rapidly, and now ca.ry
ft brisk trade with the porta of China.
Ih7 Ign «,tttaent i, on the Hat Soutl> of Deeima h.™g a «le.
Ihe lorcgn .tretche. op the valley on the Owara Creek

:r^th TCMilh C„-»"ta'« i. opon the Huff South o, thi. creek,
.^fre r~ i. a good landing-place. There are al«. two land,ng-place, ,n
wo tl «>ttlLn., but only the lower one can 1>» «">»""' "T
72° The An,erican, French, and Portuguese Con,„h.te. .re on the toll.

"r^tlC ::lTttugh .he .nergy „f M...r. Olover and Co was

"twU^'-l^ptvieion. are plentiful („.utton excepted) cheap «.d
ea.iW,rained, a, al,o i. weod and water ; the latter i. b,»nght oS m bo..^
to fte. hipping. Coal i. abundant, at 9 fe, U dollar, a ton, but .. of very
rnf*r^,r™Ly for .teaming purpo«., e.peci.lly for high.pre..ure bojer,
^r are nu^erou. mine, in the vicinity, one of which >. m operahon at
fZZ.. There i. a Japane» Government .leam-factory at Akunora,
nn thfi West side of the harbour.

M^tTlor Jap.ne.e or European, can alw.y. be W at aeharse of
30 Mlai. obtained by requi.ition through the eouBul. It .. «ud that they
le w^a^uainted wL their bu.ine.., and that it i. their custom to take
!&. cha~e of the navigation of the .hip ; but great caution shodd bo
Cin r. respect, a. some of them have only knowledge of parfenlar

Inoalities.* ^

-rTr--ri-7rZ_i;7"^:i7H.M.8. lief,m,d, 1861, remarks, that steaming during the
.ilwhrough T^o nadJ. the pilot in the morning wa« .uite ignon.t of the sh,. s
position. " knowing nothing about the sea or the land.

DIRECTIONS.

H7!>

he residences and
ing situated at its
)e8t place for land-

of Desima, but is
orts consiBt of tea,
various articles for
., peas, beans, &c.

various articles of
war, which, by the
se Government and

lock of houses S.E.
y compose a trading
restriction ; but, aa
y, and now carry on

ma, having a water
m the Owara Creek
■ South of this creek,
wo landing-places in
le approached at low
dates are on the hills

3 Glover and Co., wns
irantage to vessels re-

ixcepted), cheap, and
is brought off in boats
a ton, but is of very
high-pressure boilers,
ich is in operation at
n-factory at Akunora,

be had at a charge of
1. It is said that they
is their custom to take
reat caution should be
aowledge of particiilar

[8, that steaming during the
quite ignortint of the ship s

TIDES.-It is high water, full and .^hango, at N«Kasak,, u - U ;
springs rise 9 feot, and neaps about 6 foot, but thoy uro varu.blo. Iho
ron in the harbiur is always sluggish. A strong southerly wmd . sau
to"aise the level at high water at springs to 10 to 12 foot, or 2 ioet above

''mSoNslThe entrance of Nagasaki, although safe of approach, is
sometimes difRcult for a stranger to make out from a distanco -l-'uly -
elear weather, when the islands blend with the n.axnland ; but on n, an. ap-
proach or in sUghtly ha.y weather when the islands ^V^^^^
uncertainty is removed. It is said that vessels from the b.W. are ve,y
liable to make the entrance South of I wo smia.

m!: makia^g Nagasaki from S.W. or West, steer for the l^.^^tho,.^^^^
to round Signal Head, the North end of Iwo s.ma, at a quarter of a ml,
not passing within a N.N.E. bearing of the head on „ppro.u.lung >t, so as t
avoid the bank off the dangerous Soto no hirase Rock. After roundu.g the
Tead Bteer E. i S. for the Tapenburg ^luff, parsing .ta-^osely. as^^^^^^^
venient, but t^ddng care to avoid the Ikrracouta Rock ; then L.N.E. for

"Sslg in nud-channel between Ogami and Mogami points, a N.E. course
aire tTthe Dutch flag on Desima will thou load up in the best wat... and

when the factory of Akunora, on the West shove, opens of Mmage 1 ouU,
when tno mcioiy . .^ ^. ,.^th,„iis

N by W., a large vessel should haul up ix.rN.ii-,
between it and the British Considato or foreign settlomcut.

in approaching from the north-wostward, the course fnnn n.ke snna .s

S E or S E. i e! according as it is passed on the East or Vest Iwo smu.

wiUbe made witiout difficulty (appearing end on, and under the moun ta^.

Lge Kawara yama, the highest on the Nagasaki pemnsula), and shou d b.

;Zd on the North atamile, when rapenburg will be soon over the three

low islands outside Kamino sima. , • ^ • t * if tlm

There i. little or 10 difflerty in getog into N.8««ta »« "f > ■' *»

™*er be fine, unlee. it Ke e.tromel, dark, ospecally tf b.gnal Head („.

rtht i it i eetaWished) ha. been made ; bat ebould a vessel. Iron, ealn.»

* ad era, winda, be unable to enter, ^^"y ^-^^^"'"''^"'^l'^ ^Z
■ 'A ■Po«.r,V«.r,Tifit be the intention to anchor, for outside this island
Itr: —ientt deep, and it would be preferable .0 etand oU'
idlnlu dayUgH taking care not to decreaeo the «oundn,g, below .0

'"borage c«., however, be found in 20 to "26 fathoms over a bottom ot

ti„rXa.,;vith.n, »,d,good ^^-zc:!::^

from all winds except N.W., but exposeu lu ;„ , -j f„ 17 fatlioms

There i. al. anchorage ^- "(^^^^^^ ^TI bolt^ "^Z
or in 11 fathoms on a bank b.W. ol juegami xum

- .V;»} i -!4tf ' . '--' t«^-i--»5--)-''^'' -^-'"''''*'-'^' ''•'"'"'

„„„ WEST COAST OF KHISIU.

l,„Uh. .hoUor g~,l o,c.r. from Wet. T„».rd, th» o»..cn. rf,or. .h.
cround IB impilat »nd prolmbly rocky.
mT COAST or NAOASAKI PESISSUIA-About 22 >u,lo. of to

!::; v! T e II r.H of .he bay, who. . long .andy boach i. ».»,
i:,d bo avoided, .hero being a Buakea reck (Bay Bock), on.h,.h ar. 6 f..
wfttor with 4 and 6 fathoms about it. . . .. i

Mh ki Bay North of Kabasima and East of tho low jutting point and
J;; W-. Ihero stands the largo village of MisaKi affords anehora n 7
o 1 1 fathoms. It is gained from the westward by roundmg at not less than
r eif:!Lanco. the'south and S.E. points of Kabasima. the latter a steep
head from which steer to pass outside a low reef (East Eocks) 1 mdo N by
E of that head, which being passed, steer N.W. i W. into M.ala bay and
ancho either i^ 1 fathoms East of the flat rocks, on which are seen a largo
Tambl erection used by the fishermen, whose nets it wiU require care to

"Tameitsi Bay is 4i miles N.E. of Misaki. Steer for the -U«ge at its
head, and when Kabasima shuts in behind the southern point of the bay
anch r in 10 fathoms or less, about 2 cables off shore. SUzucnra a smal
bay 2 miles farther N.E., has anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, at 2 cables

off shore. ■< i i

Between Sitziwura and Mogi Bays, there are an islet and several large

reefs which extend 2 or 3 cables from tho shore.

Mogi, another small bay. is Similes N.E. of Tameitsi. Small craft can
anchor in 3 to 6 fathoms, sheltered except from South to East ; and larger
Vfssels in 9 to 11 fathoms off the entrance.

Aba Bay, 3 miles N.E. of Mogi. and 15 miles from Kabasima, is rectan-
gular in shape. U mile deep, and 1 mile in breadth. There is anchorage in
The centre of the bay in 7 fathoms, open only between South and S.E.
There is a boat camber at the village on the western side of the bay.

Maki sima. on the East side of Aba Bay, encloses on the N.E. a harbour
for small vessels, having 10 to 12 feet water, accessible by two narrow

^'siMABAEA GULF.-Of this large gulf, which extends 70 miles into the
heart of Kiuslu, little is known. Simabara is a large and broad peninsula,
«o situated as to make this gulf an inland sea. On the eastern shore of the
peninsula there stands a city of the same name. In the centre of the penin-

AMAKirSA-KOSTKI ISLANDS.

r.8i

eostorn shore the

it 22 miles of tho
. It has goncrftUy
•e a vessel blown to
je and good shelter

the island 2 milos
y openbotwoonS.E.
mdy boach is seen,
), on which are G ft.

jf jutting point and
ords anchorage in 7
Jing at not less than
aa, the latter a steep
Rocks) 1 milo N by
into Misaki bay, and
'hich are seen a largo
will require care to

for the village at its
irn point of the bay,
. Sitziwnra. a small
fathoms, at 2 cables

lot and several largo

tsi. Small craft can
, to East ; and larger

Kabasima, is rectan-
There is anchorage in
tween South and S.E.
lide of the bay.
on the N.E. a harbour
jssible by two narrow

tends 70 miles into the
e and broad peninsula,
le eastern shore of the
the centre of the penin-

su a is an active volcano, a not hit,'h hut oxtondcd mountain, over which a
dark cloud of Biuoko usually rests. This is the focus .)f a wide volianic re-
gion, and is associated with some of tho scvoront oarthciuakes ou rocord, ono
of which, in 1793, was felt throughout tho whole of Kiusiu. and iH said to
have changed the configuration of tho whole coast lino of the adjoining pro-
vince of Iligo, and the general form of its territory.

A rock, reported by Captain Stov<>nfl, of tho Htoam-Hliip Filipino, lies at
tho entrance of tho giilf, and unccvors 5 foot at low wator. It boars N. 20'^
W. from tlio East . ^treuio of Tsuji-sima, audN. 64^ W. from tho East ex-
treme of 'osima.

AMAKUSA, a large island 2.3 miles in length, lies 8.8.W. of tho Sima-
bara peninsula ; between them is the western entrance to the gulf, only '!},
miles in width. Two harbours, Tomioka and Kamo ura on the western
coast of Amakusa, have been examined by the Dutch.

Tomioka, E. 4 8. 14 miles from the South point of Kabasima, is a lagoon-
like harbour on the eastern side of a small peninsula, which forms the N.W.
point of Amakusa. Tho harbour is formed by a lo^v tongue of land curving
round to tho westward and enclosing it, giving complete shelter, the entrance
being from the S.E. by a channel carrying 5 fathoms water close along the
the 8o>ith side of tho low tree-covered tongue which forms tho eastern sido
of the harbour. A vessel may anchor in the centre of the harbour, in 6
fathoms.

Kame ura, on the West coast of Amakusa, 13 milos S. by W. of Tomioka,
is an inlet running in 5 miles "West. There are three rocks north-
westward of the entrance, the two eastern of which are pinnacles, the
western low.

KOSIKI ISLANDS, consisting of two large and several small iKlauds,
extend in a N.E. and S.W. direction from lat. 31° 37' to 31» 53' N., and
from long. 129" 41' to 130° 0' E. They are not high, but their appearance
is bold in passing. The Nadiejda RocJcs off their West side are considered
to be about 4 miles from the 8hor(<, and 7 miles North of Uaya saki, their
westernmost point.

The eastern point of Kamino Eosiki, the northern island, is distant about
13 miles from the coast of Kiusiu. Extending 2i miles eastward of it, are
several islets, the outer two of which are called Ftdaho sima, the easternmost
being a pinnacle rock.

Pioneer Eocks.— H.M.S. Pioneer, in 1861, when passing inside the Kosiki
Islands, discovered two rocks lying 2i to 3 miles eastward of the eastern of
the two Futako islets, with Dasima saki bearing S.E. i E. They are close
together, 10 to 12 feet above water, and dangerous from their smallnoiss.
The Japanese manu8cr=ijt chart also represents a rock or islet ;the Kamome
nuHo) off the coast to the E.S.E., and a danger of suuie sore favtliur out j tho

-55S5!!BER?13

f.H2

^^^^ WEST COAST OK KlUSir,

,L.agoea«twanIofthe Pioneer I^'^^^^ -^ f -"tnTir^' ''"'' '^
^ , * • i,t nr in bad weather, until more bo known of it.

Taka Bima-S. by E. 10 m.l. .01 ^ ^^^^ ,j„,.

«-r. "• '"« -tTr. o 'S - -!-. .ore than . c»„.. In ..-

,I.M.8. »■,*./..». A»gu. 6.h 1 58. T^J ^ ThotwoHoutbom.

0^ part «»„,wha. «.., but U,0 ea,to™ ™-8 ° » ' ^J ,„ "^ „,, .„• E.
Mgh. of 1,060 foot above t.. -ea. I . m ' .2 N .^ ^^^^^^ ^^ _

a^eMcac.ima.c<,n...t20ftw-^-^^ ^^^ „„, S.^. ai,oc«on.
- -to, -«--*tl r Lward i. .ui.0 clear. Between tl.e
IlXtKir:u::i^...bo .,o„,.d . p-U, »,.., a^ tbe ,e„e„a
deptb about 81 tatUo™^ ^^_^^ „_^„„.

W« a«. «>» -*°""\;t 1 1:1" 8 feet abeve the ..a. and 1.
lllatletel'tr:. lU' «. P-eapiton. *„ o.ept.. .0 tbe

":r:!.,tbes.w.i-,..e.*at^b^-

100 feet higher and very craggy ; its remarkable p i

le that shouW Im

fit.

oint of tho Knsiki

bod as throo inlotH

lian a cable in ox-

a milo Boutliward

were discovorod by

North and South,

Tho two Houthorn-

aea; tho northern

id, with Bomo rockH
nforenco, tho wost-
pitouH peak, to tho
^., long. 129^ '29' E.
of tho island aro
it a mile, is another

3 Mcac sima or Ams
[.a. ,Samccn, in 1855.
liato smaller islands
and S.W. direction,
clear. Between tho
eu, and the general

les long, and three-
kbovo the sea, and is
des, oxcei)ting to the

of tho N.E. island, but
k probably suggested

s and rocks, are high
■loaf form.

issible), after the Ingcnieur-

a 1846.

easternmost ieliind appeared

chart ; no foul ground was

1858.

PALLAS ROCKS. ''"^

The only outlying n..,ks uotice.l extend South ab.mt a third ..f a milo
from the south-west island, and may bo almost cmsidered part of tho mui.i
group.

PALLAS EOCKS are throo in number, two of whith lie close together,
and one N E. U cable from the largest, whi.'h is tho south-western of tho
KToup Tho largest rock does not exceed a third of a cable in .iKUueter. an.l
iH about 60 feot high ; tho other two aro about one half that elevation. 1 hey
are steep-to, and soundings wore obtained at tho distance of a nule S.uth
from theni, in 95 fathoms, sand and shoils. Tho largest rock is lu lat. 32
14' 17 'N., long. 128»12' .W E.

DIRECTIONS.- Wlion leaving tho Vang-tso kiang for the Japan Tslan.ls,
if bound to Nagasaki, a cour^o mny at once be .teered f..r Meac nuna or Ahhcs
Ears Group, the highest island of whi.h is visible in clear weather upwards
of 30 miles. With the Asses Ears bearing South 8 miles, an L.N.E. course
for 75 miles wiU plao a vessel off Signal Head, the North point o Iwo
Hima, at the entrance of Nagasaki, which on near approach should m.t
bo brought to bear northward of N.N.E. For entering Nagasaki, see

page G79.

The direct course from tho Amherst Hocks to Nagasaki is E. by N. oast-
crly 390 miles, and loads midway between the Pallas Ko..kH and Capo Goto ;
but the danger of steering is, that tho vessel hi some part of her course luust
pass across that arm of tho Japan stream which sots through Korea
Strait into the Japan Sea, and experience a set which may carry her
to the northward of Cape Goto. The current wiU generally bo found be-
tween the meridians of 125° and 127°, or even two degrees broader, its di-
rection N.E. by N.. and its velocity ftom a quarter to three-ciuarters of a
knot per hour. IL is evident, therefore, that its effect will bo dependent on
the speed of the vessel, and also that if no sights can be obtamed her posi-
tion will be uncertain withm these Umits.*

With these considerations the navigator must act on his own judgment
there being only difBculty in making the passage, when baffling winds, and

• Mr. J. S. Compton. Master of H.M.S. Rcnard, states thathe found the current botwoon
ijii. «. a. vyuuf , -iv *v,„ wJn^ Mr 1 H Lawrence, Master ot

Nagasaki and Shanghai set generally with tho wind. Mr. •»• "•J;"" '
1I.M.8. Pearl, records a set of 24 miles, N.E. by N.. on June 29, 1802, and N. by E. 10
milos the next day, nouior to Kiusiu.

fnimst^^'MI*^ iS*PA''

r:rc?S35HS'V^'^'K

r^rstrt^Ti-^rKS^

gg^ WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.

mosa, a direct course should be steered lor iN b ' ..ution should

.oou.(7«u^es)betwoeuthoM.ac.^a^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^

1)0 taken in the latter case against bemg sot to

Tr Txtnlr S^'S'-Tf hound on to Hakodati at the sa^e season
Through KOEEA Sl^^^ ^^ ^^.^^^^ ^uh a sading

- oven as late as «.e end o Ju^o, ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^_ ^^ ^^,^^ ,^ ^,.
vessel to make eastn.ga^ an a^on _^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ j^^^^^

vantagoous to puss .oU East ot ^^^ ^orea Strait, attaining at

Stream .vh.ch sets N.E. ^ y f ''^^ ^^^f ^ j^^^ts an hour. Should a
ti„.es, although not constant, a v^^^ocxty ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^,^^

S.W. wind occur at this season, it may he e p ^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^

unless it foUow "^ ^^^^^'^^^^fj^i^Ja, he followed b^ a calm and
weather at the time be very in end, ^' ^^^, ^^,^ „,,y

falling barometer, a cyclone of ^^^ ^^^^ .^ ^,,,^ ,, ^ast or

,0 expected, lasting from one o s^vn da s ^^ .^^^ ^^^^^_

r.:rL:r;rr:::r E J^^^U tWor. be made whenever

-S^g .0 Winter, g^s f^ -h .d -- -2^^:: ^
Korea Strait, lasting three or ^-^^^iZoac}. the wind increasing in
rl^rrr —ir: r'a not attaining its height

tack, beware of being blown to 1---^ mt« J iTng time to regain the lost
through by the Japan stre.un . -^^^^^^^^^^^^^ _,/,,.,, .oeks

ground against f ;-- ;^;^: ~,„ff ) ., L if on the starboard tack,
endeavouring to beat round Cape Uuch J. ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^

,.ere . P^^f ^^^f ^^^^^^^^^^ :^ "vessels, it is recommended that
r 'Wd e" r:;:: ml the^d in dayhght, and .nd anchorages, or

-- a ^J-^YerN^XrCst winds prevail, a direct caurse should bo

Xn wmter, -^^-^^^-^^ when bound to Hakodate ; but if bound fron,.
steered from the Korea btr.t w ^^_^^^ _ ^ ^^^^ ^ .^ .^.^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^. ^^^^^

thick, ramy '^^^/'^^'^f .™7^ ,, they are passed on dark nights. If not
tI^:i::rrXo-n,^7f - wen to make them in the
aay time, urdess the nights are m.^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^.^^ ^^ _^^^,^.,

NAGASAia TO THE INLAJsfD SEA.

C85

tl will Ito but of Pliovt
)pt on the starboard

the eastward of Eor-
hero being good sea-
but procantiou should
stward by the strong

ati at the safne season
ifficult with a sailing
Nipon. It will bo ad-
trongth of the Japan
,rea Strait, attaining at
9 an hour. Should a
to last only 24 hours,
L barometer. If the
toUowod by a calm and
.lice and duration may
ots in with an East or
id generally shifts sud-
iforc, bo made whenever

are very frequent in the
! sometimes violent. A
the wind increasing in
not attaining its height
■or Nagasaki on the port
Diemen Strait, for if set
r time to regain the lost
jeen nearly three weeks
L if on the starboard tack,
rait to the nortliward of
Is, it is recommended that
it, and find anchorages, or

a direct (iaurse should bo
:odato ; but if bound from,
e vicinity of the Moac sima,
I on dark nights. If not
. well to make thmn in the

-vail from March to Juni',
akon to make casting, even

Hakodate southward, it is necessary to endeavour to make westing when
possible, and keep a long offing, for the .'oast of Nipon is a ice shore. After
passing Korea Strait as well to win.lward as possible, the wnuls will be
f<.und more liable to change when arrived at lat 32^ N., long. 125 L., but
sometimes they continue so steadily between N.W. and W.S.W., as to set a
vessel to leeward of the Yang-tse.

NAGASAKI to the INLAND SEA. -In passing tlirough the arclupelago
which encircles the western coast of Kiusiu, there are not more islands than
iust sufficient as good marks in thick weather. Their coasts are bold ; an-
chorages abound and can be safely run for almost o^'erwhere ; and an offing
niay generally be made before nightfall, should that or the approach of
thick or stormy weather render it desirable. The tide.s are regular .vithm
the islands. Outside, the north-east stream is ahuost constant m the

''^l7proceedingoM««W«Hirado, after leaving Nagasaki, steer N.W., unless
wishing to pass outside Hiki sima. A run of 1« mUes will place a slnp
abreast that island, and a further ru. .f 13 miles on the same course wdl
lead up mid-channel between Otate and Yenoi sima, from which position a
N N W course for 11 mdes wiU roach the islets off the S.W. point ol Hi-
rado" Pass a mile outside these islets, and also of the Aska sima 3 miles
North of them, unless intending to take the Obreo channel (page 668), m
which case pass inside the Aska sima, and steer directly for it.

Coasting Hirado and Ikutski on a N.N.E. course, a run of 12* miles from
Aska sima, will place a vessel off the North point of Ikutski; then steer
N E by E for 7 miles until past the small rock off the north-western face of
Atsusi no Oosima, which, if not seen, may be cleared by keeping Madam
niute open to the westward of Atsusi on passing. An L.N.E. course will
now lead direct to Wilson Island distant LI -iles, passing 2 miles north-
westward of Madara, of Yebosi, and of the Swain Keef, and when Wilson
Island is well risen, shape the course to pass to the westward of it. _

If at night it were better to steer from Yebosi such a couise as woidd give
Swain Reef a wider berth, being careful lest the eastern tidal stream into tl.o
strait of Simonoseki, which sets rather strongly through the channels East of
AVilso'i Islai' d, should saddl(3 the vessel on to that reef. _

THROUGH SPEX STRAIT.--The inner passage from Nagasaki to the
I .land Sea by Spex or Hirado Strait, is 15 miles less in distance than that
outside Hirado, but it is seldom that a vessel is not obhged to anchor some-
where for tlie night. From the entrance of Nagasaki, steer N W., as
before, to pass between the pimiade rocks of Hiki and Sumo, and round
the western side of all the groups Noiih of Hiki; then shape tlie course
North to N by E. to pass eastward of Kuro sima, and tour beaut.fidly
cidtivated islands to the North of it, lying in the southern entrance to ,^pex
Strait.

WEST COAST OF Kn^STlT.

When abreast of Kuro sinia, and distant about half a milo, steer N. by
W. i \V. until Table mountain, a remarkable flat-topped mountain sonit^
distance back from the shore of Kiusiu, bears E. ^ S. If thia course ismadi*
}>ood, it will cany you clear of Robinet Rock and midv.ay between it and
the Kiufliu shore. Do not bring tlie northern Kareki Islet to bear to the
southward of S.8.W. i W. till Table mountain bears East. Wlien Table
mountain bears E. ^ S,, steer N. by E. J E., till abreast of the anchorage of
Kawat(ihi, when lied Cliff will be plainly seen, then steer about N.E. by N.
to pass around Red Oliff, keeping will over to the eastern side of the channel.
Keep along the eastern shore, a cable and a half distant, till around Low
Point, and abreast of Kuro-ko sima.

When abreast of Kuro-ko sima, to avoid Vineta Rock steer directly for
Rocky Island or the rocks awash, taking care to keep Rocky Island wcU
open to the left of the rocks awash and Low Point to the eastward of S. by
E. i E. When Furaeato Saki bears about S_E. ^ E., steer ao as to pass at
least one cfi'"le to tJie eastw^ird of the rocks awash. In going South through
the strait*!, steer directly for Kuro-ko sirua, heading about S. by W. J W.,
and keeping it to the 80i.thward of S.8.W. i W. till Furasato Saki bears
about West, when steer for Low P<»iat and through the rest of the strait the
same as in coming to the northward.

Four-foot rock at the southern end of luu strait is easily seen and re-
cognized.

Fin^tii Hock, so named from H.P.M ship Vinda striking on it, has 15 feet
water on it at low water. It is tuc '/nly known danger, and is impo ; mi
from being directly in the fairway throufi^h the strait.

The two dangers, marked E.D,, probably do not exist, as the U.S.S. Jfu»n-
cact/'n boats were unable to find them.

Robinet Roeh, which is only two-thirds to three-quarters of a milo N. by
B. J E. from the North Kareki. can also be avoided by keeping in mid-
ohann<'l liotwcen Ilirado Sima. and the Kareki Islets.

Vineta Rock can also be safely passed to the eastward by keeping well
towards the main land of Kiusiu on a course of N. J E., after passing close
to Low Point, until the North point of Furasato Snki bears S.E. by E.,
when tlio danger will be passed. But as this channel is nan-ow, the
other 18 thought to be preferable. — {Lieut. -Commander 8. A. Me Cariy,
U.H.N. , 1867)

When ci«ar of the northern entrance of the strait, the course along th(^
land « N.E. <>y E. to Hato saki, distant 17 miles, steering for the clump
beyond it \»'^hich is on the East bluff of ()ga«a, the eastern of the three
Mnirl'i Murth of Hato saki and Yobuko, and passing between the bluff and
t)m PMMf e rocks. Tlie same course will load well outside th« Dove and
SKmi Re«4i, which are S miles off shore, and may both be covered, and out-
flMp Inift nrthw olosi" to tlip Swain Reef

■et-Ktsgj.

THE JAPANESE CUREENT.

687

milo, steer N. hj
ad mountain some
tliiafouraeismad.'
IV between it and
ilet to bear to tlie
last. Wlien Table
jf tlie anchorage of
• about N.E. by N.
side of the channel,
it, till around Low

k steer directly for
Rocky Island weU
e eastward of S. by
teerso as to pass at
voing South through
'out 8. by W. i- W.,
Furasato Saki bears
rest of the strait the

easily seen and re-

ing on it, has 15 feet
er, and is iinpouuit

t, as the U.S.S. 2[una-

arters of a mile N. by
I by keei)ing in mid-
ward by keeping well
E., after passing close
aki bears S.E. by B.,
jhannel is naD-ow, the
inder S. A. Me Cariy,

, the course along the
steering for the clump
le eastom of the tliree
g between the blutf and
outside the Dove and
th be covered, and out-

Anothor track may be pursued from Spex Strait, steering from it on a
N E i E course to pass between Madara and Kagara, and roundmg the
N W point of the latter at a milo ; from this a N.E. by E. i E. course wiU
lead up close to tho West point of Wilson Island, passing half a nulo out-
side Yebosi.

Should the passage have been made by the Korea Strait, after rounding
the North point of Iki, an E. I N. course may bo steered for the Siro
simas at the entrance of the Inland Sea, passing well northward ol Orono
sima with a clear run of 55 mUes. The tidal streams hero are not very well
known.

The JAPANESE CTJERENT.-In the chapter devoted to the currents this
remarkable stream will be more particularly described in its extent, but a
few words here will form a fitting conclusion to this description of the Japan
Archipelago.

On the Japanese charts the current is noticed as passing eastward off the
S E coast of Nipon, and is called Euro Siwo, or the Black Stream, or kuro-
segawa, the current of the Black Gulf. It was noticed by all early naviga-
tors, and more extended observation has shown its exact analogy with the
Oulf Stream of the Atlantic. The following is from the Cliinu Pilot.

The Kuro Siwo, or Japan Stream, is an immense oceanic current, which
from observations appears to have its origin in the great equatorial current
of the Pacific, from which ocean it is separated by the South end of Formosa
The lar-er portion of this current, when it reaches the point just named,
passes off into the China Sea ; while the other part is deflected to tlic north-
ward along the eastern coast of Formosa until reaching the parallel of 26-^
N when it bears off to the northward and eastward, washing the whole
S.E. coasts of Japan, and increasing in strength as it advances to a limit
which appears to be variable.

Near its origin the stream is contracted, and is usually confined between
Formosa and the Meiaco-sima group, with a width of nearly 100 miles; but
to the northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit, and
reaches the Lu-chu and Bonm Islands, attaining a width to tho northward
of the latter of about 400 miles. Its average maximum temperature is 86",
which differs about 12° from that of the ocean due to the latitude. The north-
western edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden thermal change
in the water of from 10' to 20'^; but the southern and eastern limit is less
■listinctlv dmned, there b«ing a gradual thermal approximation of the air
and water.

Along the borders of the stream, where It chafes against the counter
currents and torpid waters of the ocean, as also in its midst, wlu-re svliirls
=ind ed.lies are j^roduced by islands and the iuequaUties in its bed, strong
uderips are encountered, often resembling heavj' breakers on reefs or shoals.

WEST COAST OF KIUSIU.

when it may be again expected » « J^ two days. One one occasion, oft
with greater vapidity than u..al for - ^^ ,,,,,, «,a

the Gulf of Yedo, its maximum ^''^''^^'\ ^^^ ^^ other times some

80 miles respectively, on throe «u..^-^^a^^^^^^^^^ ^,^ g,,,,,Uy re-

observations have shown results greatly

ceived accounts of it. R N a branch of the Kuro Siwo

According to Captaiu OiarleB^xUo^^^^^^^^

holds on its N.E. by Nco^ae from FomosM^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^p,.,

and passes through the Korea (= ^^^^ ^ uncertain

upon the South point of Tsu sima F om b^s ^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^

and variable in force and ^-cti-, --e ^^^^ .^ ^^^^^^^ ^^.^^

Dagelet at the rate of 2 knots P«'^«^' ^^ ^^ ,, ^,,^, Us way on to the
dissipated; BtiU there ^^^ J '^ ^^^oLved flowing steadily into
Strait of Tsugar, through which it is again

the Paciiic. ■ _-——.

" . * =» iRfil havinK boon drifted 63 miles in 24

.1 = TT AT S Centaur, in August, IS&l. navmg u

• But not always, U..ai-o- i'"""" > ° , ^g-o j^

* Th, ouncnt .e.m. lo "torn .« e™'» "" ' ^^ „ „„„ „„ tteco .uc

^„ d.y.. 1. i. »"«»" ''•»::ll"'m .m P»l.b., b. found d.,»d.»t

Gulf, or before reaching them. Changes in w

on the seasons.

,a^,j,gi,„g

( C89 )

tad Taugar Strait

ction and velocity,
,y by a N.E. vfind ;
e, aud possibly run
ae one occasion, off
igb. as 72, 74, and
t other times some
I tlie generally re-

1 of the Kuro Siwo
1 mitigated strength,
Sea, having split
omesvery uncertain
shing northwards to
les it appears quite
Ids its way on to the
flowing steadily into

,on drifted 63 miles in 24

Van Diemen Strait and
to 27 miles on three suc-
1 of islands South off the
bably he found dependent

SECTION III.

THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

In the companion volume . this— that describing the South Tacific Ocean—
allusion has been made to tne imperfect notion that is given by inspecting a
map, of the importance and relative size of the innumerable islands which
aro scattered over these oceans. In many instances the minute coral spot,
which makes a considerable feature on the chart, could not be visibly repre-
sented of its proper dimensions ; and this exaggeration is enhanced by the
several names by which it is distinguished, which seem tc add to its size and
area. By far the greater number of islets are of this coral formation. A
few of the well known groups are volcanic, lofty, and of considerable dimen-
sions ; but the aggregate area of the dry land of the coral islands is re-
markably small. In most instances it is a mere strip surrounding the f«ntral
lagoon, but of surpassing fertility, and supporting an immense population in
proportion to the actual area.

With a large proportion of the groups we are sufficiently intimate to
affirm that thoy are tolerably well represented; but in tho greatest number
of instances thoy have not been so accurately surveyed as they ought to be,
and the sameness of their character renders this remark of the more im-
portance, as it is difficult in many instances to distinguish between small
spots which so much resemble each other. In the ensuing lists and descrip-
tions we have stated the authority on which the descriptions and the geogra-
phical position depend.*

As the structure, growth, and foundation of the coral islands is among the
most wonderful of all natural problems, we give here some extracts from the

• In this edition it has notheen thought necessary to repeat tho quotations of tlir autho-
rities which were aren hi extern,, in tho lirst edition. To that worl. we, tlionfuro, refer Mw
reader who may he iuterested in the history of tho hydrogrui-hy of tho i'.icilic.

6«o THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCEAN.

ledge which he has naado such abundant use ^l^^^'^^^^^ ^, ,,^^ .^^al
Iho extracts Btrictly to those remarks bearmg on the structure

islands.

T -11 .nw rrivo a verv brief account of the three great classes of
Mr. Darwin says : -I will now give a ver> on ^^ ^^^.^

coral reef, namely, Atolls, Barner,and.nng>ng 11 e^^^^^^^^^

formation. AW every ^^^l^^TtX!::^^ them by their Indian
astonishment at the lagoon islands, or as shall lo ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^

„of Atolls, and has attempted some^xp^natm^^^^^^^^ a«^^ .^ .^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^

ryrard de Laval well exclaimed. ^ " J"^' ^^^^, ^^, ,.„tifiee humain." The

cnuironn6 ^'^l^^^'^^ZtSTi^L^^^^^^^ ^he lowness of the land

without having been seen. ,,„,;dorationha8 been overlooked, namely, on what

.:: s:r s: :.=; -"— •- « • -' -^*' '-^ "•»" "'"™ ■'"-

„„„ „ it it bad a,.pp«i 0. a carp. .« l«t .»■«''» ^'^^j „„„ „„.„„., „tll at tat it
1... „um.«.», but Ih. adhering i»rl.ole. .( "°j "~ ™. ,„„„,„„ th. anJ.gy ot
wa. evident Ib.l tb. bottom oon.i.fd «( a .m„lb »»''y "j"^; '° ' J, „„ „ ^^l. tb..

tb. t„r. tb. uade. or «,a..,^w :^:;^i':^«;:r:^'czT:'i,., ^^ « - -
:;xi=\nrntrd..b.t^iebu^^^^^^^^^^

r::"andro;sz=:=^^^^^^

From the fact ot the reel uuuu. b foundation must havi

Tf^'r^^X^Xl'Z. lof.,., i-oUtod, .t.op..idod bank, of .cdin..,
:, n™™and«n,,bu„d,oa.otl..goo.inl.ngtl., ooald ba„ ta.n d.po.tt^ .
r:r.t::.oond..tpa..ottb.,..oi«o»dln.^

,„„ an, continent. •^^-:::;;;;^rZXZL':::^^-''. i— "« «"
elcator, '■>"»*"'"'• ^t* ,™ „^. „o f«t «t tb. .nr(.» of tb. ..., and not ..

,,ek,. '»'•"*■" "';.'.Vt",-., on tho^bol. hcoof .h.^ g.«b., can w. find a.ing
,i„|.l,. point above that level , lor «iic.i> ,„nm,it. ri.it

C. n of „.„..;». »»;- — -':: ll-c'^brit. ,r. tb.: tb. .Onndati..

withm a few feet ol .ignen levei, ai c,.dimont and if they were n

.bone. tb. ..«U-bn«din. ...... „nn., 'r:^^J^Z, „ , „, L ., ..

'■r r srs r.; ™:::tr:i«i: - i...nd a,t. ;.„,»,>.,..

iTbetattt S,„. ,^ ba... ..n.d b. ..»......, -o*. »■. -h. «-tb of ,

"tL. c,pl».ni.i= bo. '.toU r^ -qni.. 'bei. Wndidar .ttnctutc. .. .u.t turn

[FIC OCEAN.

paniod tho late Admiral
. those stores of know-
iter years. We confine
3 structure of the coral

)f the tb'-ce great classes of
?ill explain my views on their
hat) expressed his unbounded
•e call them by their Indian
as long ago as the year 1605,
Toir chiicun de cos atoUons,
loint d'artifico humain." The
with the lownesa of the land
oon, can hardly ho imagined

m overlooked, namely, on what
splh, based their massive struc-

.zRoy on the steep outside of
repared tallow at the bottom of
living corals, but as perfectly
icreascdthe impressions became
more numerous, until at last it
yer ; to carry on tho analogy of
t last the soil was so sterile that
led by many others, it may be
,n construct reefs is between 20
ific and Indian Oceans, in which

that height to which the waves

oat depths, it is absolutely cer-
atoll, a. foundation must have
from the surface. It is impro-
steop-sided banks of sediment,
I, could have been deposited in

1 Oceans at an immense distance
It is equally improbable that ibe

ire vast areas, innumerable great
ho surface of tho sea, and not one
. of the globe, cin we find a single
with their many summits rising
ovc it 'f If, then, thu foundations
)f sodimont, and if they were not
3 subsided into it ; and this at onoe
I, and island after islan<l, slowly
y atlorded for the growth of thn

idicular structure, we muHt turn to

THE ISLANDS OP THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

691

tho second great class, namely, Barrier Roofs. These cither extend in straight lino^ in front
of tho shores of a oontinont or of a large island, or they encirclo smaller islands; in both
cases being separated from the land by a broad and rather deep channel of water, analogous
to the lagoon within an atoll. It is remarkable how littlo attention has been paid to encir-
cling barrier reefa, yet they are truly wonderful structures. In the Island of Bola-Rola tho
whole line of reef has been converted into land; but usually a snow-white lino of great
breakers, with only hero and there a single low islet crowned with cocoa-nut trees, divides
the dark heaving waters of the ocean from the light green expanse of the lagoon channel.
And the quiet waters of this channel generally bathe a fringe of low alluvial soil loadnd with
the most beautifiil productions of the tropics, and lying at tho foot of tho wild, abrupt, cen-
tral mountains. Encircling barrier reefs are of all sizes, from 3 miles to no loss than tl
miles in diameter; that which fronts one side, and encircles both ends of Now Calodoni:i
is 400 milos long. Tho depth within the lagoon channel also varies much : from 10 to Hi
fathoms may ho taken as an average ; but at Vanikoro there are spaces no loss than fl6 fa-
thoms, or 336 feet deep. Internally the reef either slopes gently into tho lagoon channel,
or ends in a perpendicular wall sometimes between 200 or 300 feet under water in height ;
externally the reef rises, liko an atoll, with extreme abruptness out of tho profound doptlis
of the ocean. What can be more singular than these structures ? Wo see an island, which
may be compared to a castle situated on tho summit of a lofty submarine mountain, pro-
tected by a great wall of coral rock, always steep oxtomally, and sometimes internally, with
a broad level summit, hero and there breached by niirrow gateways, through which tlio
largest ship can enter the wide and deep encircling moat.

As far as the actual reef of coral is concerned there is not the smallest difference in general
size and outline, grouping, and even in quite trifling details of structure, in a barrier and an
atoll. The geographer Balbi has well remarked that an encircled island is an atoll, with
high land rising out of its lagoon : remove tho land, and a perfect atoll is left.

But what has caused these reefs to sprmg up at such groat distances from the shores of
the included islands ? It cannot be that the corals will not grow close to tho land ; for the
shores within tho lasro^i channel, when not surrounded by alluvial soil, are often fringiid
by living r'-tfs ; and we shall presently see that there is a whole class, which I have called
Fringing Reefs, from their close attachment to the shores both of continents and of islands.
Again, on what have the reef-building corals, which cannot live at great depths, based their
encircling structures ? This is a great apparent difficulty, analogous to that in tho case of
atolls, which has generally been overlooked.

On what are these barrier reefs based ? Are wo to suppose that each island is surrounded
by a collar-like submarine ledge of rock, or by a great b.ank of sediment ending abruptly
where the reef ends P If the sea had formerly eaten deeply into tho islands before they
were protected by the reefs, thus having left a shallow ledge round them under water, tho
present shores would have invariably been bounded by great precipices ; but this is very
rarely the case. Moreover, on this notion, it is not possible to explain why tho comls
should have sprung up, like a wall, from the extreme outer margin of the ledge, often
leaving a broad space of water within, too deep for the growth of corals. Tho accumulation
of a wide bank of sediment all around these islands, and generally widest where the in-
cluded islands are smallest, is highly improbable, considering their exposed positions in the
central and deepest parts of tho ocean. On what then are these barrier roofs based P Why,
with their wide and deep moat-like channels, do they stand so far from tlie included land ?
We shall soon see how these difficulties disappear.

We come now to the tliird class of fringing reefs, which will require a very short notice.
Where the land slopes abruptly under water, these reefs are only a few yards in width,

2 y2

. ^.i^i^J^^iSSr

M i >M| iii m . m ^ Uji i l l| I l- 'i -HL ' J.L' .l '"* " !

692 THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCEAN.

fonning n m.ro ribbon or fringe round the shores; whore the land «;;P; ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
watflr the roof extends f>.rther, sometimes as much as a m.lo from the land , but ,n surh
rir'tie soundings outside the reef always show that the submarine P-l-^^^-^ J^
and is .ontly incited. In fact, the reefs extend ""^^^ ^;^;\;J'«^"?: ^^-^/'Y'I
.hich a foundation within the requisite depth, from 20 to 30 fathoms >s found^ A^ar -
the actual reef is concerned, there is no essential difference between ,t and that fonn.n,
barrier or an atoll; it is. however, generally of a less width and -"j;^ >^^^ ^'^ "J
have been formed on it. From th. corals growing more vigorously on the outs d > J^
from the noxious effect of the sediment washed inwards. t»>e outwar edge o^^^^^^^^^^^^
the highest part, and between it and the land there is generally a '^-^"^ ^^^^^^^^^
. few feet .n dopth. Where banks of sediment have accumulated near to the surfa s, as
pari:Sti;:wLtIndio.. they sometimes become fringed with -Is ^ ~^^^
degree resemble lagoon islands or atolls ; in the same manner as fnng.ng reefs, surround
ing gently (sloping islands, in some degree resemble barrier reefs.

No theory o'n the formation of coral reefs can be considered -fsfaeto'y -hich o s n
include the three great classes. We have seen that we are dnven to beheve m the sub
it of those vaTt areas, interspersed with low islands of which not on^^^^^o^^^
height to which the wind and waves can throw up matter, and yet const-cted by animah
requiring a foundation, and that foundation to lie at no great depth. ^^-^'^^^ ^^;7
island sLounded by frin,in, reefs, which offer no difficulty m heir ^^^^^^^^^ ^^'
island with its reef slowly subside. Now. as the island sinks down, either a few feet at a
tl or quite insensibly, we may safely infer, from what is known of the condj^ions favour-
alto the growth of'eoral. that the living masses, bathed ^l^^^ ^^^^ '^iZyll
the reef will soon regain the surface. The water, however, will encroach a MUe by little
ci. the shire, the island becoming lower and smaller, and the space between the inner edge
he reef and the beach proportionably broader. Coral islets are supposed to have be n
ormed on the reef; and a ship is anchored i. the lagoon channel. This channel will be
Z or loss deep. According to the rate of subsidence, to the amount of «— — -
lated in it. and to the growth of the delicately branch corals which can live there. Jo
can now ee why encircling barrier reefs stand so far from the shores which they front
We can also perceive that a line drawn perpendicularly down from the outer edge of th
nllroef to L foundation of solid rock beneath the old fringing -f - f «;-J. ^/ "
many feet as there have been feet of subsidence, that smaU limit of depth at which th
TffecL corals can live; the little architecte have built up their great -f^fj^^'^
the whole sank down, upon a basis formed of other corals and their consolidated fragments.
Thus the difficulty on this head, which appeared so great, disappears.

If instead of al island we had taken the shore of a continent fringed -th reefs, and
have imagined it to have subsided, a great straight barrier, like tha of Austraha or Now
Caledonia, separated from the land by a wide and deep channel, would ev.dentiy have been

"'ake our new encircling barrier reef, and let it go on subsiding. As the barrier
reef slowly sinks down, the corals will go on vigorously growing upwards; bntas th
LTand sinks, the water ;ill gain inch by inch on the shore, the separate mountains first
foxing sep rate islands with one great reef, and finally the last and highes pinnacle d.
IrearL The instant this takes place a perfect atoll is formed. I have said, remove th
hS^ land from within an encircling barrier reef and an atoll is left, and the land has bee
r moved. We can now perceive how it comes that atolls, having sprung from encirchng
bLer reefs, rosemblo them in general si.e. form in the manner in which they are group.
Cther and in their arrangement iu single or double Unes ; for they may bo called lud
oSe charts of the sunken isl.nd over which thoy stand. We can further see how it

dMi

IC OCEAN.

il Hlopea gontly undor tho
m tho land ; but in tavh
larino prolongation of tlui
listance from tho shore at
oms, is found. As far nfl
eon it and that forminc; a
id consoquontly few iskits
ouBly on the outside, and
itward edge of the reef ia
' a shallow sandy channfl
il near to tho surfacs, as in
corals, and honco in son\o
B fringing roofs, surround-

latisfactory which does not
iven to believe in tho sub-
ich not one rises above tho
yet constructed by animals
ipth. Let us, then, take an
heir structure, and let this
lown, either a few feet at a
urn of tho conditions favour-
' tho surf on tho margin of
ill encroach a little by littlo
pace between the inner edge
1 ore supposed to have been
inol. This ehannel will be
mount of sediment accumu-
which can live there. We
he shores which they front,
from the outer edge of tho
fing reef will exceed, by as
limit of depth at which the
eir great wall-like mass, as
their consolidated fragments,
ppoars.

lent fringed with reefs, and
ke that of Australia or No^¥
il, would evidently have been

•n subsiding. As the barrier
[rowing upwards ; but as tho
the separate mountains first
last and highest pinnacle dis-
led. I have said, remove the
is left, and the land has been
laving sprung from encircling
ler in which they are grouped
; for thoy may be called rude
We can further see how it

THE ISLANDS OF TflE NORTH rACIFIO OCEAN.

f);)3

arises that thn atolls in tho Pacific and Indian Dceans extend in linos parnllol to tho pro-
viiiling strike ol tho high island and groat coast lines of those oroans. F vonturo, then •love,
to alHmi, that on the theory of tho upwiird growth of tho corals during the sinking of tho
land, :d\ tho loading fiwtures in those wonderful htriictures, tho laguon islands or atolls,
whiih liavo so long excited tho attontion of voyagers, iis well ns in tlin no Iocs wonderful
))iirrier rocfs, \vli(!lh(;r encircling small islands or stretching for hundreds of miles along tho
shores of a iiuntinont, are simply explained.

The arrangement of the following pages is similar to that pursued in tho
volume on tho South Pacific, viz., tho islands and groups ai-e doscribcd in
bolts of latitude, each IC in width, and proceed from the eastern side to
tho western side of the ocean in succession, commouciug in this work with
tho Equator.

■-^i,:^M^Amm&'i""

( (i!tl )

CHAPTER XII.

ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOE AND LAT. 10" N.

EoLLowiNo tlie plan adopted in the South Pacific Directory, we commence
from the coast of Amorica, and include in this chapter the group of islandn,
the Gilbert Archipelago, which lie on the Equator, the Marshall Arch.i^e-
lago to the North of it, and the Caroline Archipelago, lying withm the
same bolt of latitude.

MALPELO ISLAND, in lat. 4" 3' N., long. 81^ 36' W., according to Com-
mander Aldham, H.M.S. Swift, July 22, 1851, is a barren, high, perpendi-
cular rock, which may be Been in clear weather at the distance of 20 leagues,
the summit being 1,200 feet above the sea level. A small quantity of green
moss, and a few dwarf bushes, which giow in its cracks and guUeys, atford
the only verdure that it possesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the
,vhole may extend about 9 or 10 miles from North to South. The centre of
this island bears a resemblance, in several points of view, to the crown of a
head, and its being barren accounts naturally enough for the name (bald
head) which the Spaniards have bestowed on it. It is surrounded, as it
were, by a strong current, having much the appearance of breakers, which,
setting into the gulf, and, being accompanied by light winds, with thick and
hazy weather, Colnett did not think it deserving of any further attention.
The current was found to set N.E. by E. 2^ miles an hour. Another state-
ment is made that they run violently to the southward and westward near it,
a difference possibly owing to the different seasons they have been observed
in. Colnett's was in July, 1793. The rock itself has 40 fathoms alongside
of it, and 110 fathoms at a quarter of a mile distant.

EIVADENEYRA SHOAL.—" Being on board the steamer Peru, abreast
of Puna, October 22, 1842, and hearing that there was a terrible yellow fever
raging eX Guayaquil, the steamer put back, and I was placed on board a
emaU schooner going to Kealejo. On the 28th, in the middle of the day,
the sea calm, wo had caught a large turtle, when I observed at a few
fathoms off a slight swell on the sea ; we took the boat and went to it, when
we bounded, and, to our astonishment, found only 10.i feet (French?) of

'"'B>l8l>IM"""ii»*'ri"

I LAT. 10" N.

octory, wo commence
the group of island r,
le Marshall Archipe-
go, lying within the

v., according to Com-
irren, high, perpendi-
iistance of 20 leagues,
oall <iuantity of green
ks and guUeys, atford
. with islets, and the
South. The centre of
riew, to the crown of a
;h for the name (bald
t is surrounded, as it
ce of breakers, which,
winds, with thick and
any further attention,
hour. Another state-
l and westward near it,
ley have been observed
s 40 fathoms alongside

) steamer Peru, abreast
IS a terrible yellow fever
was placed on board a
the middle of the day,
n I observed at a few
)at and went to it, when
' Hi.i feet (French?) of

corns TSTAND.

695

water. In the centre of this circular spot wan only 10 foot (IcfUli ; wn then
found 1-J, 16, '27, 6 (i feet, and then no bottom. l?y our very imporfoct in-
struments we made it to bo in lat. 4" 1.')' N., long, 8.')^ 10' W. of (Jroouwich ;
but this we considered nearly correct, a.s wo liaHtonod on to Eoah^jo."

The existence of this bank has been in some degree oonfirraod by tho
(MKjuirlos of Captain Lapolin, in the French corvotto La BrUlante, in 1852.
lie aHCortftinod that several vessels had struck on it, but did not gain any
information as to tho correctness of tho position assigned. ( 'aptaiu Harycy,
of 11. M.S. Havannah, passed within 4 miles of the place in July, l8o7, with-
out seeing anything of it.

COCOS ISLAND.— The discovery of this island is involved in obsciivity.
It is montioned as being well known by early navigators, Lionel Wafer,
Dampior, &c. Its more exact position and character appear to have been
first ascertained by the Spanish exploring ships, the Bescubii'iiaand Alrcvhla,
in 17i)l. It was then visited, and, it is stated, surveyed, by Captain Colnett
in 1793. In 1795 it was visited by Vancouver, who also oxaniined it. There
are some singular discrepancies in the accounts given by these different
visitors, more particularly in those of tho two last named. Vanc.'ouver states
it to be 4A;mile3 in length N.E. and S.W., while Colnott states it to bo 12
miles; and tho respective plans given also coincide with tho descriptions.
These discrepancies were decided in Vancouver's favour by Sir Edw. Belcher
in 1838. He places tho observatory at the head of Chatham Bay, at the
N.E. part of the island, in lat. 5° 32' 57" N., long. 80° 58' 22' W.

The island, according to Mr. Whidbey's account, is about 4 leagues in
circuit with several detached rocks and islets scattered around its shores.
Off the S.W. point they extend to the greatest distance, nearly 2 miles, and
would be dangerous if they were not sufficiently high to be seen and

avoided.

The island itself is very high, sufficiently so to be seen at more than 20
leagues distant ; and Vancouver says that he lost sight of it at 46 miles
W.N.W. not from sinking below the horizon, but from being obscured by
haze. The West side is the highest, showing in the form of a round hill,
descending the northern extremity, which appears like a detached islet when
bearing to the eastward. From this quarter the southern part appears to
rise abruptly from the sea, in steep rugged clifl's, to a considerable height.
The northern side is indented into small bays, with rocks and islets lying
near them. Tha shores are chiefly composed of broken cliffy perpendicular
precipices, beyond which the surface rises unevenly to the summit of the
island the whole composed of one rude connected thicket of small trees, near
the shore • but on the more elevated and interior parts of the island are
many large spreading trees, among which are cocoa-nut trees, but not in such
abundance as to distinguish the island.

-?:s ^^^ ' g;a «- fer a » »^g^sag^re^&-<^^!g'g3;5!5^

„„. INLAND. .>F,TWEF.N THE mt.ATOIt AND .AT. .. N.

,v..u ,«tc,. An.«..nti, .t .. qm.0 « ««J v-y J^ ^^^^,,_,, „,„

.„„,», but .ouldno take b^.ta^.m ^,__^ ^.^.^ ^^^ .^_^_^^,^ ^^,„j

carlior navigatoi. • All "">"»» j,, „„ abumlunt.

„„»..„ut tre.. romaimag wlucb arc acco.„b,o^ 1 t ^,^__^_^^^^^^

,„„.,„a her. m a» tatbom., »- rf «7:^.7^. '^U Ileal l.le. clc«

.„ .b„ N.E. exl^uo of .bo ...aa^, '' -^^, ' '^^M l,lag oil 1. rr„. «.

WeHt poiut of tho bay, S. 7o W. , a 8i« p j ^^^

,^W.'.oN. (irW.-, and the «-.«™8 r'Ti.t it L-A-

oramilodUtant. ""''** ^^/e'toi. .ale, .ha. .b,,.«b ho found .ho

;ri:r:r:i:i:t.rLwe..,hoh.d

N.E. and North. rolnett's idan, 1. .o .ho •nee.T.atd ot .ho

„,;.. llaj. a. i' irjl^N E poU/i. n,ay bo .a.11, hno.n by

term.;, and 1 mde •>'*>»»/■»» ''"'"^ J „, J, t„„i, tearing Weat ot

. „.,aU ruggod barren rook t»>"^^«"";, ° , ^,^ „„. e... and Wo..,

. „„ro coplou. 7«7°f™ttrir Vancouver con.id.red 1. (January)

Xhe *«»(. of the ''l'"^ ■' J^ ,„i„,. oolno.., .rho ..ayed longer,

rp!r:ra:ro:r Sr-y ra.. EHo., .o. .oro,er,

abundant and annoying. .„chormK here. Iho time of high

■"". "t ': r.i-C" aXltgl- .1 to IS foot. The ebb .eu
"T T ,t .le rat'o of for 5 knots. Ih. flood, which i, -.enkor, rna. .a
':*w : TW to UBinfluoncod by currenU. The current around ,.
'!:Z:l ^. ^u. generaUy «..lng - the north.ea..ward at the ra,e

of 2 knots, t

--rrZ^Z^Z^i^y^ an excessive nuantity of the milk, which did not in-

* Ttutt;— The^n that thoy wore unable to move without a^.i.tance. th«

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

if i^ I'M

■^ 1^ 12.2
40 12.0

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^ 6"

►

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN £ > XEET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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dMl

WALKER ISLANDS-CHRISTMAS ISLAND.

(>!)7

WALKER ISLANDS.— A wiJo oxtont of ocean intorvonos in this belt of
latitude botwoon the positions of the foregoing islands and that of the
isolated cluster which are named as above. From a notice preserved by
Mr. Purdy, they were discovered by Captain "Walker, in 1814, and consist of
a group of small, low, and well- wooded islands. Their lat. is a" 31' N.,
long. 149" 15' W. On some charts they are marked as Low Woody Islands.

JARVIS ISLAND.— Although this island is to the South of the equator,
it is so connected with the groups which are next doscribod, that we give it
a place here. It was discovered by Captain Brown, of the English ship
Eliza Francis, August 21st, 1821. At it was surveyed by the Poacock and
Flying-fish of Comm. Wilkes, U.S. Exploring Expedition, December, 1810,
the position then ascertained must be preferred to others, lat. 0° 22' 33" S.,
long. 139° 54' 11" W. Wilkes describes it as a small coral island, trian-
gular in shape, 1 J mile East and West, and a mile North and South. No
reef surrounds it, and it may therefore be safely approached, but it was con-
sidered very dangerous.

It is one of the islands worked by the American Guano Company, and the
description given by Mr. J. D. Hague shows that it is a raised coral island,
the interior lagoon having disappeared, and its bed being now 7 or 8 feet
above the sea, with many marks indicating the gradual retreat of the sea.
The guano found on it diliers from that of other islands from this cause ;
much of it contains sulphate of lime (gypsum), which is supposed to arise
from the action of the evaporating salt water on the coral rock. There is
but very little vegetation on it. The vessels which come here for the guano
moor to mooring-buoys in very deep water, in the same manner as at Baker

Island.

It is certainly the same as Bunker Island, and perhaps as no mention is
otherwise made of it, as Brooke Island, placed in T 13' S., long. 159" 40' W.
The other authorities generally place Jurvia Island somewhat to the West of
Captain Wilkes's longitude.

CHRISTMAS ISLAND, a coral lagoon island, was discovered by Captain
Cook, in the Resolution and Discovery, on Wednesday, December 24th, 1777.
IIo remained there till Jauuary 2nd ensuing, and observed an eclipse of tho
sun, and from the season gave it the name. It is, like aU other islands of
the same nature, a belt of low land, enclosing a lagoon, which, however, m
this ease is very shallow. It is so low that the land cunn' ' be seen more
than 8 or 10 miles off. The entrance into the lagoon is on the N.W. side,
and was divided into two channels, nt only for boats, by a small island, on

Ho says the i.lauJ is Bmull ana rocky, in lut. 6' N., long. 106» W. Adaiiral Kiuscnstcrn
.ays it ib piobubly the same iblund as L'ik Je la i'asaiou, in 10° 01' N., 100' W.

■:^Ss;^s»assr:

698 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10" N.

which Cook lf.nded his instruments, and planted some cocoa-nuts, yams, and

melon seeds. Here he also left a memorial of his visit.

The low land is covered with stunted bushes, and a few cocoa-nut and

palm trees hero and there. From the S.E. to the N.W. points of the island
Cook says the coas^ runs N.W. by W. J W. 25} miles, but Captam Hooper
found that the land had much extended, and that the island was much arger
than previously represented. A deep bay, however, runs to the northward
from a point of land about 13* miles from the S.E. point, near which are
two conspicuous cocoa-nut trees, bearing about N.E. by E.,^r«>, when m
one with the point. Close to the S.W. point are two or three groves of
cocoa-nut trees (which from the sea appear as one), planted by Capt. Cook
on its discovery. From the S.W. point the land trends N.E., true 4i miles,
forming a small bay, in the N.E. part of which is anchorage, ^^f «; t^'^^^'
quartersof a mile from the shore, sand and coral, 9, 8 7, and 6 fathoms^
No turtle were seen by Capt. Scott, September, 1840, although Cook found
an abundance. From the N.E. point of this bay the land appears to run
away East into a narrow bight, and then trends to the W.N.W. in a slip,
terminating in the N.W. point, which bears nearly North 7 miles from the

^' TheTsland does not afford any fresh water. Cook's party dug without
success in several parts of it, consequently it is uninhabited, except by flocks
of sea-birds, who here lay their eggs under the low trees in parts of the
island. They also caught abundance of fish. Though a vessel on its shore
xnay be seen from most parts of it, it was still large enough for some of
Cook's sailors to lose themselves on it, and to be recovered only after great

^"if Novembe)-, 1857, a lumber barque/. C. Fremont was wrecked in the
large bay on the East side of the island, and Captain Hooper went to seek
it in the brig John Bunlap and schooner Dolphin, in 1858. He says :—

" On the S W. point of the island is a grove of cocoa-nut trees, numbering
perhaps six hundred ; on the North side of the bay and lagoon are two or
three clusters, and one towards the S.E. point. The most distant clusters
cannot be seen the one from the other, as they are 25 miles apart, and the
island is much larger than it is generally supposed to be. In the large b.E.
bay where so many wrecks occur, there is no anchorage ; the water is very
deep close to the shore, with a strong tide and surf setting on it. The land
is not over 10 ft. above the sea level in any part, and cannot be seen from a
ship's deck more than 8 to 10 miles off. Navigators should, therefore, be

cautious in approaching it. , , ,

.'A singular circumstance noticed was that the fish, m the large lagoon
near which the camps were erected, were all dead, and in passing over the
water in a boat they could be seen at the bottom ; also on the lee shore ot
this lake the fish were piled up in a state of preservation ; on being broken

-V- Mtfi'i i l II *

?. 10" N.

uts, yams, aud

cocoa-nut and
t8 of the island
:;aptain Hooper
vas much larger
( the northward

near which are
,, trie, when in
three groves of
, by Capt. Cook
, true, 4 J miles,
(, half or three-
, and 6 fathoms,
ugh Cook found

appears to run
N.W. in a slip,
! miles from the

irty dug without
except by flocks
I in parts of the
ssel on its shore
ough for some of
only after great

,s wrecked in the
)per went to seek
He says : —
i trees, numbering
lagoon are two or
ist distant clusters
es apart, and the
In the large S.E.
; the water is very
y on it. The land
not be seen from a
)uld, therefore, be

a the large lagoon
n passing over the
jn the lee shore of
; on being broken

FANNING ISLAND.

fi99

in two they were aa sweet and wholesome as possible. The water of this
lake is extremely salt, and stronger than any pickle ever used in curing lish
or moat."

Captain Scott, B.N., H.M.S. Samarang, 1840, confirms Cook's position of
the island. Cook places the small islet in lat. 1' 59' N., long. 157" 30' W.

According to Captain Scott, its S.E. point is in lat. 1" 40' 34" N., long.
157° 13' 53"; S.W. point, lat. P 51' 54" N., long. 157^ 38' 57" W. ; N.W.
point, lat. r 69' 30", long. 157° 30' 3" W. ; S.E. point, meridian distance
from Resolution Bay, Marquesas, 18° 2' 28" W.*

FANNING ISLAND was discovered by Captain Edmund Fanning, in the
American ship Betsy, in 1798. The next recorded account of it was by Capt.
Legoarant de Tromolin, who came here in the French corvette La Jiayonnaise,
in 1828. But his description does not at all accord with that of the disco-
verer ; perhaps the coral island had increased in the interval. Prior to 1855
an Englishman, Captain Henry English, had established himself here with
a few natives of Humphries Island and other places, to trade in the produc-
tion of cocoa-nut oil. They placed themselves under British protection, when
Captain W. H. Morshead, E.N., came here in H.M.S. Bido, on October IG,
1855. It was visited by Captain Pearse in H.M.S. Alert, in 1861, and was
accurately surveyed by Captain G. H. Eichards, E.N., the present hydro-
grapher, in H.M.S. Hecate, in 1863.f

The island belongs to Captain Henry English, as above mentioned, and he,
with his few white companions and about 150 natives, have much extended
the cultivation of the cocoa-nut palm.

Fanning Island is of coral formation, of the lagoon type, and in shape a
rude oval, 9J miles long N.W. and S.E. Towards the centre it is about 3J
miles wide, but towards its south-eastern end 5i miles ; and its circum-
ference is 27 miles. It is skirted by a sm ill reef extending all round the
island, but only to the distance of half a cabic fi-om the Deaoh, and against
this the ocean swell breaks, but seldom with any violence. Outside tte reef
there is no danger of any kind. The belt of land which forms the island has

* Sarah Anna Island, announced in the New York Tribune, March, 1858, as lying in lat.
4° N., long. 164* 22' W., is douitjul, as Vancouver passed near the position. It may be
the same as Maiden Island on the same meridian, but in 4° 0' South.

t It is not improbable but that this may be the Atnerican Isles, stated by Kotzebuo to
have been discovared by Captain Mather, of the American, in 1814, 28 more to the West,
und also the Weeks Island of whaler report, lat. 3° 47' N., long. 158" 37' W. It is singular
that Captain Hudson, of the U.S. Exploring vessel Peacock, should be satisfied that there is
no other island than Washington Island hereabouts. He states that he diligently sought
for eight days the positions where five islands have been reported to exist, but no land
was seen. Ptrhaps the strong and various currents hereabouts may have led to sonic
tonfubion.

I i

I, I

i;l

70.) ISLANPS liETWEEN TOE EQUATOI! AND LAT. ic N.
„„e. it c.,o.d U,ree ,ua*r. ° " -'- ' ^ :~X„, tat «„ rcgaUHty of

^Erf^rB.-i.e ia.o„a u =P7- - f^* ^rort

vessels over ^^^^^i^^;/ ^'^*;,^ ,,,^ ^4 to 40 feet, decreasing to 15 feet

from the flag- taff, the depths v^y ^^^^^^^^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^

and less towards the coral reef. Ihe norther ^^^^ ^^^

exceed 15 feet, but at on« tm ^^^^^^.^^ ^^,,^

Bhore the depth is 30 and 32 feet^ Jg^^^^, ^^^er, bottom of coral and
.UichalT^ds safe ^^^^^^^^Tt^ ^elll bearing S.W. i S.,

l':f:: S. I::! *oa> »pot. ^oaa .he. the. is ..aio docv

Tur:.?:arrra:e::r;rr.--.t.^
i=.:=.-:reirrar.r3L-^^^^^^^^^^^

Ttlttrance to English Harbour, it is called Whaleman anctorago o
? I TLTZ me to the latter denomination. The depth of .-ator .s .a.d
rr'aag" tr '-W' 15 fathoms at h-f a n^e from the beach Here
.13 the largest class have at time, anchored to proc»e a supply ot f,e.h

Lr. ™hu.h is abundant adjacent to the anchorage,
"th^tt winds blow stLdily from the eastward almost all the year
Jnd Id thi island is seldom or never the sceneof any boisterous weather.
The months of March and April are generally the worst.

ThTflCtaff, on the South side of entrance to English Harbour, is in lat
30 51 26^ N., long. 159o ,,' W. ; Point Alert (the East extreme of tho
Land near which there is a gap in the continuity of the -oa-nut fores ^
1 3''52' N long. 159^ 15' W. ; the North extremity of the island m lat.
3^ 56iN.!^nd nearly on the meridian of the flag-staff in English Harbour ;
the South extremity in lat. 3° M' N.

10^ N.

ta North end,
vith cocoa-nut
e regularity of
listers of trees
nspicuous gup
bolt of land is

ly shallow and
.W. side of the
igablo for largo
rbles W. by S.
asing to 15 feet
eistheshoalest,
I shore docs not
in the southern
extensive basin
om of coral and
:ing S.W. i S.,
1 Morshead said
-ground is good,
ly moored to lie
and 12 feet, and
re is again deep

feet. The stream
4 to 5 knots.
it slack water,
for ships on the
38 north-westward
nan anchorage or
;h of water is said
the beach. Hero
3 a supply of fresh

most all the year
ooisterous weather.

Harbour, is in lat.
ast extreme of tlu'
e cocoa-nut forest),
f the island in lat.
English Harbour ;

WASHINGTON AND PALMYRA ISLANDS.

701

The island is very fortilo and produces bananas, pumpkins, taro, figs,
melons, cabbages, radishes, tomatoes, and numerous other garden vegeta-
bles, introduced by the settlers. Every facility is offered for procuring fire-
wood and water, as well as any fruit and vegetables in season, and tlio
visits of whalers for this purpose are not infrofiuent. Fish is abundant in
tlie Ingoon.

Bound from Honolulu and the northward make the island on the East
side, and sail round the South side. Ships must be careful on entering the
harbour, as the coral roofs project further seaward there than elsewhere ;
but probably a pilot can be procured.

WASHINGTON ISLAND was discovorod by Captain Fanning, the day
after he had discovered the island bearing his name to the S.E. It has also
been called New Yorh Hand on the charts, and is probably the Pmpcd Idand
announced in 1858. According to Captain Wilkos, it is in lat. 4° 41' 35" N.,
long. 160" 15' 37" V.'^., very nearly the position originally assigned. It is 3}
miles long by IJ mile broad, and is entirely covered with cocoa-nut and
other trees, exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is a reef off its
eastern point, which extends for half a niilo. At the western end a coral
ledge extends 2 miles in a N.W. by W. direction, on which the water ap-
pears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break upon it, except
close to the point of the island. It is elevated about 10 feet above the sea.
The surf is very heavy, and the island affords no anchorage.

FALMTBA ISLAND was discovered, November 7, 1802, by an American
vessel of the name, during her passage from Juan Fernandez to Manila.
According to the description of her commander, Captain Sawle, it was unin-
habited, flat, and has a lagoon in its centre 7 miles long, in which the tide
regularly ebbs and flows. The island is 14 miles in extent from East to
West, and about half that in breadth. The Palmyra anchor'>d on the N.W.
side of the island in 20 fathoms, at three-quarters of a mile off shore.
Abundance of turtle were found, but no fresh water.

It was taken possession of by Captain Zenas Bent, of Honolulu, for the
Hawaiian Government, in 1262, having been previously claimed for the
American Guano Company. Captain Bent's description makes it only 10
miles long by 6 miles broad. The eastern end rises about 20 feet ; the land-
in"- place is on the West end, and a vessel can be in perfect safety in a depth
of 3 fathoms. Some pooplo were left on it to cure biche-db-mer. He places
it in lat. b° 50' N., long. 161° 53', but Captain Sawle places it 30 miles to the
westward.

The tide ebbs and flows about 5 feet, and runs in and out of the lagoon at
a rate of 6 or 7 knots.

702 ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAT. 10^ N.

The SAMARANG ISLES were discovered by Captain Scott, in H.M^S
Salrana September 15tb, 1840. They raay bathe same as I'rospect island.
Th7are a ^oup of about H or 16. forming a belt round an apparently
llw lagoon, and are covered with flourishing cocoa-nut and palm trees
o'he water's edge. In the centre of the eastern reef is a small dry sand-
ba ^Jh re fitLf e the eastern islet nearly East about two

llV over which the sea breaks heavily. Another reef runs out from the
west'' ^Blet, about a mile to the westward ; what distance they run m tha
Tre H-on w B not ascertained; but at 3 miles from the breakers on th
w ern reef soundings were obtained in 9. 8, and 7 fathoms at which ^m
Z N W breakers were discovered from the foreyard. By the angles hat
were tin they stretch out full 9 or 10 miles to the N.W. from the was em
^et ; the northern edge of the N.W. reef appeared from the mast-head to
x^u Iway about S.E. by E. till it joined the eastern one Broken water was
Thse^ed here and there along the whole line, with evident shoal water ba-
tween it and the coral roaf before mentioned.

Tth the strong currents experienced by the Samaran, in this naighbour-
hood. a more dangerous spot to those navigating these seas -acq-in^ed
with itB existence, can scarcely exist than this group of coralhne isle s, w^^^h
rhtexl'tve reefs. Had it not providentially fallen calm during the
lil ZTalran, must inevitably have been lost, with the probability
:;t U soul ou board perishing, as her course would have taken d.rectly on

^^Th^ rain breakers are in lat. 4= 56' 15" N.. long^l62= H' 35-- W. ; and
the West islet is in lat. 4° 55' 9", long. 162^ 22' 20" W.*

. DO.BTP.L U......-Madison Island, from whaler report, lat. 6' SO' N.. Ion. 169o 0' W..

is probably Palmyras Island. , ,^ , •

•J i i,» i„ lot 4» •\'i: N lone, leg- 32' W. Captain Stone, of tho bng

lat.6°40'N.,long. 170-lO'W. ,^ , ^ .v

. 7 • 1 f fio •««• to 6= 39' N.. long. 166" 0' to 166' 18' W., has been three

'Z:CZ^'oZ:!^^; ancTalthoughshesaw many birds, amon. them land birds,

'T^tZ bodied an Ulan, in 8= 40' N. and 168' 0' W. from whaler report, which i^
probably Barber Island, if that exists.

Barber Island is also plaeed in lat. 5° 0' N., long. 177= 54' W.

Another.^, whieh may be 7J«.Jary /.MM is Baid from whaler report to be m lat.
8= 0' N., long. 177° 20' W.

Barbara Tsla.d, from a report in the New York Tribune, March. 1868. exists in lat, 3^ o4

10^ N.

BAKER ISLAND.

7o;{

tt, in H.M.S.
rospect island,
an apparently
ad palm trees
tiall dry sand-
ist, about two

out from tho
loy run in that
•eakors on the

at which time
ho angles that
im the western
) mast-head to
)ken water was
hoal water be-

this neighbour-
I, unacquainted
line islets, with
ilm during the
the probability
aken directly on

7' 35 " W. ; and

N., Ion. 159° O'W.,

Stone, of tho brig
red that no islands

in found in 1858, in

W., haa been three
p the first position at
ig them land birds,

lalor report, which is

report to be in lat.
8, exists in lat. 3' 54

Kingman or Alire ThomdiJe Jicpf, Captain Kingman, of the American ship
Shooting S/ar, saw this shoal lying to the northward of I'almyra Island. It
is composed of coral and sand, and when the breakers on tho N.E. part boar
East, with a moderate breeze, a few small spots of coral can be seen sbovo
water. Tho northern part runs E.S.E. and W.N.W. 12 miles, Slioal water
extends several miles to the southward. Tho position ascertained was 6° 27'
N., long. 162° 12' W.

The shiii Alice Thorndike also saw it in 1859, placing it in lat. 6° 24' N.,
long. 162° 22'. Another authority i)laces it in lat. 6° 30' N., long. 162"
30' The probable position is therefore G» 27^' N., and 162° 21' W.*

Diana Shoal, discovered by Captain Ilonry English, of Fanning Island,
lat. 8° 40' N., long. 157° 20' W. It has only 6 foot water over it. Tho posi-
tion, it is said, ma," be relied on, but the Ilerald passed over the site without
seeing anything.

Crane Shoal was announced in 1863 by Captain Crane, of the schooner
Maria. She ran over a reef, the rocks of which she saw with about 4 fa-
thoms over them ; Ipt. 5° 53' N., long. 164° 0' W.

Barber Island, in lat. 8° 4' N., long. 170° 0' W., is a doubtful announce-
ment in the China Mail, but there is nothing to disprove its existence.

Barbary Island is another doubtful but not disproved report, lat. 9° 0'
N., long. 178° 0' W. But in the note on page 702 several other positions are
quoted, which must be included among the very doubtful reports.

BAKEB ISLAND is a low coral island of similar character to those
around it, but it had a large deposit of guano on it, which has been worked
by the American Guano Company, and, therefore, is better known,
many.

It was seen by Capt. H. Foster, of the barque Jamaica, and has been many
times vaguely reported, as Phmhe Island (see hereafter), or New Nantucket Island.
Seven positions have been assigned, varying slightly from that given by Capt.
J. D. Hague, 0° 13' N., long. 176° 22' W. He describes it as being about 1
mile long and two-thirds of a mile wide, trending East and West. The sur-
face is nearly level, the highest point of which is 22 feet above the level of
the sea, showing some evidences of elevation.

N., long. 173° 0' W., and it has also been placed 90 miles West of this position. (ThiB
seems to be a peculiarly vague designation.)

Four Rocks, irom whaler report, in lat. 7° 51' N., long. 176* 6'. Another rocA, in lat.
7' 48' N., long. 173° 12' W.

* From whaler reports in the China Mail, a shoal lies in lat. 6° 36' N. and 160° 0' W. ;
another report says lat. 6' 30' N., long. 163' 30' W. These probably refer to the Kingman
Reef.

;:5a^^g?««gva'' ^ 'g a«r«'j' ' AtiJ'^vg»i^' ' yg-'

701 ISLANDS HETWEEN TIIK EQtTATOIl AND l.AT^ 10 N.

g,l aC it. Thi. Margin.. n..g„ i» .bout .00 foot wido on ...o loo .,< o
TtZiBlU »Bd i. tore oompo«>d „t flno -and and .m»U tagmcnt. of
IS „a.hommixod,i.hco„.ia,rablo»«.no. O. tbo o..ton, or ^nd.
wT^.id,i.U,n»ch^idor,.,>d fomod ot co«»r tagmontB of coral. «nd

rrm "- oftid. T„oLr„co of «. dopo.. .

*„rrl,b»t.bfh.ra Ld bottom rtioh fores it, bod b« a graduo
Zfr,» ho border, toward, tbo contro, or. porhal,. mor. proporly, f»m
N W To 8 E., giving tbo guano a variablo dop.h from iacho. at tbo odg ,
Toll f«; at tbo dooilt part. Nonoof tbo gra.. that grow, abundantly
on tho marcin is found on tho guano.

On the West side is a sn.all open bay, in which is a boat entrance ; :mn.o
diatoly orposite to which is tho temporary hotel, and close o xt (to the
nolwa d) is tho wharf. In the centre of tho island are tho patches of guan
" h tlmways to the largest deposits. Outside of tho reef the downward
lond ofThe Land under water is so abrupt that an anchor wdl not grapple,
but falls away towards the bottom of the deep ocean. For th.s reason it has
bltndllary to anchor large buoys outside the reef, to wh.h th.
euano ships can moor themselves while receiving their cargoes.
' Mr Charles Reeves, of the guano ship Lock-na-^ar, gives the following re-
cent account of M.-{Mercantile Marine Magazine, Jan 1869.)

Baker Island is situated in lat. 0° 12i' N., long. 176 22 W. , it isot coral
foimatL nsing from the sea abruptly to a height of 15 ft., and of nearly
circular form, about 2 miles in circumference.

The wooden houses upon the island, to tho number of twelve, can be se n
14 m leTfrom the mast-head ; but if a ship should be at the buoy there sh
an b seen long before the island. On approaching the island, care should
bT tain not to be set to leeward by the current, which constantly set.
W S W., 2 knots an hour. If a ship once gets to leeward, she may be weeks
before sho is able to boat up to the island again. , . .^ o

As soon as the island is visible, the jack should bo hoisted at the forc-

.oyamst-1-d, and as a matter of precaution the royal taken in. to ma o

certain of the jack being seen. As soon as she is made out as bound to t^u.

sTan ! the American ensign will bo hoisted from the signal-staff, if i is fa-

vourle for coming to the buoy. But should the ensign not be hoisted by

ctethe ^^^^^^ iv^rr::^;i:s

tr C^:t:Xr/to Z^ and carry^ a^U possible sail to hold your

own against the current. , , ,. . . ti,„

Bi^ when the ensign is hoisted, get up your best hues to run to
huoy ; they sometimes have lines at the island, but just as froauently as not

10- N.

encirplt)8 tho
I tho loo sido

fragments of
itorn or wind-

of corals and
) of succosHivn
osit, occupying
this deposit is
has a gradual
properly, from
es at tho edgoa
)W8 abundantly

itranco ; imme-
30 to it (to the
latches of guano
tho downward
rill not grapple,
liis reason it has
af, to which tho
les.
.he following re-

5V. ; it is of coral
t., and of nearly

olve, can bo seen
3 buoy there, she
land, care should
;h constantly sots
she may be weeks

sted at the fore-
iken in, to malto
.t as bound to tlio
l-staff, if it is fa-
lot be hoisted by
here is too much
haul to the wind
e sail to hold your

uos to run to tlic
i frcfiuoutly as nut

IIOWLAND OR HOLLAND ISLAND.

7i)r,

they have been carried away, and tliey have to depend upon yours. Stocr
for wliichcver (>nd of tlio island will give you tlio weather gage, for you will
have to luff njuud tho lee side of tho island to tlio buoy. Tlio mooring
master come.s on board ab(jut 2 miles from tho island and takes charge.

Tho easterly winds aro frequently interrupted by squalls from the west-
ward, more especially from November to March.

As soon as dark clouds aro observed gatlioriiig up to tho westward, do not
hesitate a moment, but slip at once before tho easterly wind fails. If you aro
tempted to liang on, and tho easterly wind fails, tho sliip swings round, and
no power can save her from destruction. Tlie wreck-strewn island bears
melancholy evidence of this ; tho beach being covered with spars that lloated
ashore, tho only remains of the numerous ships which have boon lost here ;
tho hulls slide down the reef into deep water.

It frequently happens during tho winter months that heavy surfs set in all
round the island. It would then bo advisable for tho ship to go to soa if
there is any wind to slip, for there is no communication with tho island ex-
cept by signal, and there is great risk of the ship boing lost.

HOWLAND or Holland Island was discovered by Capt. G. E. Netcher,
in the Isabella, of Fairhaven, U.S., September 9th, 1842. It was afterwards
several times reported by whalers in 1851 and 1858, and in the latter year
by Captain Paty, of the schooner Zj^o/jAo. On Janut.ry 16th, 1859, Oapt.
Eldridge, of the American barque Amazon, announced it as a new discovery.
Since that period it has been occupied by tho American Guano Company. It
will bo needless to quote the nine positions assigned to it, but it is very nearly
in lat. 0° 50' N., long. 176° 35' W.*

Captain J. D. Hague, who came here in 1860, in search of guano, says :
It is about 1 J miles long by half a milo wide, containing, above the crown
of the beach, an area of some 400 acres. Tho highest point is 17 feet above
tho reef, and 10 or 12 feot above the level of the high tide. It trends N.N.W.
and S.S.E.

Tho general features of the island resemble those of Baker. Its surface,
at least on the western side, is somewhat depressed, and much of it is covered
by a growth of purslain, grass, and other vegetation, like that on Baker
Island, but considerably more abundant. Near the centre of the island
there are one or two thickets of leafless trees or brushwood, standing 8 or 10
feet high, and occupying an area of several acres. The tops of these trees
in which the birds roost, are apparently quite dead ; but the lower parts.

* Faguin Islands, reported by a whaler as in lat. 46° 0' N., long. 171" 59' \V., and another
isl.ind hy the same authority, 35 miles to the southward, must refer to llowland and Baker
Islands.

North Paci/ic. 2 z

! it

*S^^]^'4**'i'S-SSJjE'

^n'^sk?s^¥>^?^'E^;;;^::1c^.77^::?:?^^

700 Gll.nEllT AUCHll'ELAdi).

near tho rootf.. «how mgUH of lifo aftor every rain, Tl.o winawunlsi.loof ll.o
island is fornuHl by a HUcroH«ion ..f ri.lges composo.! of coral d..l,r.« with .on,.
Hand and h1u.11«, running parallol to the oantorn b.nv.h, o.ich ..no of wli.rlv
„,ay, at oarlior stages of tho iHlan.l'R growth, havo succcHsivoly fonuod tho
weathor Hhoro. OccaBionally among thono ridges a sandy bod .s mot with m
which somo litth. guano is mixed. On tho loo sid.ahoro is also a sandy n.ar-
gln of consideral.lo width. Hits of pumico and pioces of driftwood aro H.at-
tored all ovor tho island's surface.

Tho main deposit of guano occupies tho middle part of tho .sland and
stretches, with some int.^rruptions of intervening sand, nearly from the North
to the South e.id. Its surface is ovon, and in many places covered by a thi.k
growth of purslain, whoso thread-like roots abound in tho guano wl.ore it
grows. The deposit rests on a hard coral bottom, and varies In depth from
6 inches to 4 feet. Tho fact, as observed at Baker Island, that vegetation
flourishes most where tho guano is shallow, is also .piito apparent hero, and
the consequent characteristic difference between the guano of the deep and

Bhallow parts is distinctly marked.*

GILBEllT AP.OnirELAGO.

In this group there iP considerable confusion of names. This arises from
the fact of their disjointed discovery, the i.ame applied to one portion of an
island not bein^ extended to the whole. In the subsequent descriptions we
have endeavoured to reconcile these discrepancies, which will best explain

t ll 6111 R 61 V 68

The first island discovered was tho easternmost, Byron Island, so named

• DouHTFUL l8i,AND8.-Tho following annoiincoments of discovorics hereabout, either
require confirmation or do not exist; —

JS>w Market Islam/, according to Mr. Consul Pritchard of Apia, lies in Of 22' N., long.
174° 40' W This must refer to Bakor Island.

A reef, by tho same athority, lies in lat. 0^ 21' N., long. 170= 20' W. A douMM reef is
placed 40 miles to tho North of it on tho charts. Those must also refer to Baker a.ul

Rowland Inlands. ,

Starbuek Island, in lat. 0» 0', long. 178° 30', is perhaps intended for 173° 30 W., and

refers to Ilenderville Island.

PMe Island, lat. 0° 20' N., long. 176° 40' W., cannot bo found. Commander Sinclair, ol
the U.S. ship Vandalia, could not find it ; and Mr. Foster, mate of the Jamaica (China
mail), who passed its reported position above twenty times between 1842 and 1844, never
could see it. It is therefore probable that it is a transposition of Baker Island from West

into East longitude. ,„.,,. ^ . ,,

MitMl Island, from whaler report in lat. 9° 18' N., long. 176° 30 E., is believed not to

An island, in 10" 0' N., long. 180° 0', and reefs in the same latitude, but in 170' 30' E.
and 179° 15' E., from whaler report, if they exist, probably refer to the same.

Iwiuilsliloof tlio
dt'bris witli sonu>
3h ono of wliit li
ivoly forinocl tlio
h\ is mot with in
ilso a Handy nmv-
riftwood arosciit-

■ the island, nnd
ly from the Nortli
covered by a thick
o guaiio whore if
•ies In dopth from
1, that vegetation
sparent horo, and
of the deep and

This arises from
one portion of an
nt descriptions we

will best expliiin

Island, so named

rios hereabout, either

lies in 0" 22' N., long.

\V. A tloiibtfiil reef is
Iso refer to Biiker aiul

I for 173" 30' W., and

Commander Sinclair, ol
of the Jamaica (China
I 1842 and 1844, never
akor Island from West

B' E., is believed not to

ide, but in ITfl' 30' E.
the same.

(ITIJ'.KKT AKrnirELAGO,

707

from the commander, who rum- it Juno ;)rd, \1(')!'>. Tho i oxt worn tin*
northern groiipH, dincovorod by llm ships StiirbitriiiKjh and C/un/affr, coiu-
manded by Captains Afarshall and (Jilbort. Thore i« a looso accoiiiit of thi^<
diHoovery givon in Governor IMiillip'H voyage, in 17KS. Tho next authority
in order is a chart contained in J)alryiiiplo'H collection, dniwn by Kogor
Simpson nnd (lotn-go IJass, oflicorH of tho Xiiu/ihm, nndor Captain I5iHh(>i).
In the Table of I'ositions, by John I'urdy, is an account of Momo of tiio
islands seen by tho brig AVorAcM, about ISO!). In 1821 Captain Duperroy
visited and oxplored many uf them; but by far tho most complete account
<if them Ih given in tlio account of tho United States' Kxidoring Expedition.
The ship Peautck, and her tender Fb/inn I'inh, surveyed the greater part of
them.

The name Gilbert ArchipAago was given to tho group by Admiral Kruson-
storn, after tho commander of the Charlotte, one of tho first explorers ; tho
other commander's unmo being given to the group to tho northward. Kru-
senstem separates them into three groups, the A'ln(/nmill Julur / consisting of
Bishop or Drumraoud Island and their subordinates; tho Simpson Group,
Woodle, Hendorville, and Hopper, from tho beforo-montionod oHicers of tho
Naiitilm ; and tho Scarborough Range, Marshall, Knoy, M.. i how I 'lands, &c.,
from Captain Gibbon's vessel. All these names seem to c-o very fippr'v riate,
and have ^ r i tor many years acknowledged ; wo thoroforo follow them. On
the other hand, in the American work thoy nro all given unljr the collective
tiue of the Kingsmill Islands ; the name being only that of a wmall portion.
From the account of the expedition we derive much of tho following.

According to the information collected by Captain Hudson and Mr. Halo,
and furnished to Commodore Wilkes, the group consists of fifteen (or more
properly sixteen) islands, ten of which wore visited, the rest assumed from
native information. Tho highest land of the group is not more than 20 foot
above the sea, and they are all of coral formation, having a general resem-
blance to the usual form of those islands. But it was found that, unlike
those, many of the islands of this group afforded anchorage on their lee side
on sand banks ; and in some of them the lee or western reef is wanting ; this
would form a distinctive character, and aifords additional weight to the fact
that the islands are fast wearing away by the action of the sea on them during
westerly gales. The compact coral shelf is found at the depth of 1 2 ft. be-
neath the surface. Another evidence of their decrease is, that in all cases
where the island is at all exposed, it has become, as would be in such a case,
a string of detached islets.

Their soil, which is but a few inches in depth, is of coral sand and vegeta-
ble mould, below which coral sand is to be found, and to this depth the wells
and taro patches extend. The rain water percolates thus far, and meets
the coral rock. Pieces of pumice are found, supposed to have been
drifted on to it. The cultivation is chietiy cocoa-nut and pandnnus, the

2z2

55n^S;W=WS3f'«(**

t,! ' -.g> ' ^'Jt;." ' ."'-!L- ' ' "

708 Gn.BERT ARCHIPELAGO.

chief articles of food. A species of taro fArum mrdifoliumj is also grown
with great rn. .v On Makin or Pitt Island it i. said that there is a trench,
10 foet wide and not less than 7 miles long, dug around the lagoon, for the

cultivation of this taro.

The Rov. L. n. Gulick, M.D., has given an excellent account of this and
the neighbouring grmips of Micronesia, which embraces the four archip.>la-
goes of the Gilbert, Marshall, Caroline, and Ladrone Islands, and of thou-
people. We derive many of the ensuing remarks from his lectures.

Since the visit of the United States' Exploring Expedition those islands
have grown into some importance to the civilized world from their produc-
tion of cocoa-nut oil. Very many sailors have at different times resided on
Bhore-not an island of the group but has been thus thoroughly explored-
and there are several who seem to have made their home there, parti-
cularly one respectable trader, of rapidly increasing wealth, named EandaU.
In November, 1857, a mission station was taken on Apaiang, or Charlotte
Island, by the Eev. 11. Bingham, Jr., and a Hawaiian associate. In Sept.
1 SCO, a second station was taken by two Hawaiians on the neighbouring
island of Tarawa. The language has been reduced to writing, and a num-
ber of children are fluent readers.

Nothing is more remarkable at the Gilbert Islands to one who has visited
other parts of Micronesia, than the great number of the people. Elsewhere
the sparseness of the population is painful ; but here the overflowing swarms
are continually surprising one. The smallest of the atolls, Peru, whose di-
ameter is not more than about 2 miles, has a population of from 1,500 to
2,000, and Aranuka has 1,000, while Tapiteuwca has from 7,000 to 8,000.
In almost every other part of Micronesia the houses are scattered, and if
there are what may be termed viUages, they are but small collections of
houses, and in no very close proximity to each other; while here the habit
is to congregate in towns, where the houses are in nearly as close relation to
each other as possible. These villages are-as is almost invariably the case
on the low, annular islands— on the innev or lagoon shore, and as one lays
at anchor within the collections of low, white-roofed houses stretching along
under the cocoa-nut groves, may be seen every few miles, the canoe sheds
first, in a ov^ along the beach, and then the dweUings, which are nothing
more than roofs, standing promiscuously just behind, usually with a large
council-house in the midst.

Captain EandaU estimated the population of the group at from 50,000 to
54,000, so that it contains more than half of the population of jlicronesia
respectively, there being 20,000 to 25,000 on the Ladrono and Caroline
Islands, and perhaps 10,000 on the MarshaU Islands. As t'ae area of the dry
land is not more than 150 square miles, there will be from 300 to 350 per-
sons per square mile, a density scarcely equalled in the world.

In physical appearance this people are darker and coc^rser as a whole than

iMMftMaKIMMW^RHMpC^'

I n ' jpu y j** ^ --y '^

- ,"!Tt iip' » g*! ^? r f ' • -

GILBERT AliCTIIPELAOO.

701)

iiumj is also grown
at there is a trench,
I the lagoon, for the

i account of this and
)s the four archipok-
Islands, and of their
his lectures,
edition those islands
[ from their produc-
ent times resided on
loroughly explored —
r home there, parti-
ilth, named EandaU.
Lpaiang, or Charlotte

associate. In Sept.

on the neighbouring
writing, and a num-

one who has visited
le people. Elsewhere
le overflowing swarms
tolls, Peru, whose di-
ion of from 1,500 to
from 7,000 to 8,000.
are scattered, and if
t small collections of
while here the habit
rly as close relation to
)8t invariably the case
tiore, and as one lays
juses stretching along
liles, the canoe sheds
8, which are nothing
, usually with a large

oup at from 50,000 to
julatioa of ^ilicronesia
Ladrone and Caroline
As t'lie area of the dry
from 300 to 350 per-
E world.
Otirsor as a whole than

tho more wostorn inhabitants of Micronesia. They are also a larger r.'icp,
some of the chiedsh ones being very corpulent, equalling in size tho ancient
chiefs of Hawaii. This is also the more remarkable from those islands boinyr
tho most barren of the atolls of Micronesia. The cocoa-nut and the pauda-
nus, and a few laboriously cultivated taro, are the only vegetable produc-
tions, while the greater number of the low islands of tho Miirshall and
Caroline Archipelagoes produce taro, bread-fruit, and jack-fruit in consider-
able abundance.

The usual height is about 5 feet 8 or 9 inches, but we saw many who
wore considerably below this standard. Thoro are none of tliose burly
persons among them which are so common in the Sandwich and Society
Inlands, and we did not see one instance of obesity. — Mr. Hale.

The food of these people, besides the plants mentioned, consists of all
kinds of fish, from the whale to the sea-slug. Great numbers of fish are
taken in wears on the coral flats. Turtle are taken in tho season on tho
beaches ; and shell-fish, with the sea-slug or bicho-de-mar, aro obtained by
diving. Whales are said to have been formerly much more numerous than
now. They then sometimes got aground and were taken. Now a carcase
occasionally drifts on shore.

There is not much to induce general trading vessels to come hero ; they
possess but Httle in the way of refreshment, and there is neither wood nor
water in any quantity. They possess many good harbours, a rare advantage
in low coral islands.

The Climate of those islands is equable, and though of high tempei-ature,
it is found to be less oppressive than in most tropical couutries. For the
most part constant breezes prevail, and frequent rain falls, which moderates
the great heat, and at the same time confers fertility on the soil. From Oc-
tober to April, the time of tho Peacock's visit, is tho winter, and is especially
distinguished by the frequency of rains. Variable winds from the north-
ward and westward prevail at this season, and they have violent gales from
the S.W. ; these, according to Kirby (who was taken off the islands), aro
typhoon like. The natives plant stakes to prop up their houses, and tie
them down, to prevent them from being blown away. These storms last
throe or four days, veering gradually round to the North. The leeward
sides of tho islands receive most damage, and both land and trees are swept
away. Kirby stated that, during his residence, the lee side of Kuria had
worn away. In theso gales, the trunks of large trees are thrown on the
West side of tho island, together with large lumps of rosin, similar to
that found on tie soil at Now Zealand, which tho natives uso to scent
thoir oils with. These trees, sometimes 2 feet in diameter, wore iJiought
to be of the pine species. Many stones are found in llieir roots, from 8 to
10 inches in diameter. These are a fine basalt, and the natives uso ilioiu (or
various purposes.

iij

_ . 'SSSSJ^Si-'^^^^X^-

3!g!Wv ' NJ^M.vnia y t.*. ' . ' "^ ' J ! ^.t^-iiu^'ia^- '

j'rf

7J0 GILBERT AECIIU'ELAGO.

From May till September the weather is fine, with dear skies, and only
occasional showers ; and during this time the wind blows constartly from the
eastward. This is the season in which the natives make their voyages ; they
never venture abroad in the winter months, even from island to island, being
well aware of the danger of so doing.

Earthquakes are occasionally experienced in these islands. Kirby stated
that during the three years he was on Kuria, or Woodle Island, he had felt
ten or twelve, sufficiently sever to shako down a house. The naaves exhibit
no fear on account of them. The direction of the oscillations seems to be

from the S.W. . '

The following account begins with the southernmost of the archipelago,

and proceeds northward.

ARURAI, Arore, or Ilurd'a Island, is the southernmost of the group.
It was discovered in the mzabeth, prior to 1810, and was then named iropo
Island. " But," says Mr. Purdy, "there being another Hope Island at about
14- distant to the northward of the equator, I have substituted Hurd Island
on the chart, from respect to Captain Ilurd, of the navy, hydrographer to
the Admiralty."

The following account of it is given by M. DutaiUis :— It is low and
well wooded. It perhaps may be seen at 10 miles olf. Its length is 6 or
7 miles, and its breadth 1 or IJ miles. It cannot be reached except on the
AVest. The South point is terminated by a breaker which extends to 3

cables length.

The sea breaks heavily on the shore to the East. At the North point of
the island there is a bank of sand, with some rocks interspersed, on which
there are but 3* fathoms. It is all the more dangerous because the sea does
not always break on it. Its extent is about 4 miles, and its direction is de-
termined by the angles comprised between N.N.E. and E.N.E., of which the
North point is the summit. The West point of this island forms an extensive
bay, where the whalers anchor. Fish, poultry, cocoa-nuts, &c., are easily
procured in exchange for tobacco.

The island has 2,000 to 2,500 inhabitants. They are completely naked.
Their canoes, formed from a vast number of pieces, are clinker built, and are
most graceful in form.

South point, lat. 2° 40' 54" S., long. 177^ 1' 13"; North point, lat. 2'= 37
21" S., long. 170° 56' 57" E. Those results are nearly identical with those
assumed by Mr. Purdy.

NUKUNAU, or Uyron Island, was discovered by Commodore Byron, July
2, 1765. He describes it as a low, flat island, of a most delightful appear-
ance, and full of wood, among which the cocoa-nut was very conspicuous.
Ho saw, however, to his great regret, much foul ground about it, upon whidi
the sea broke with a dreadful surf. He sailed along the S.W. side of it, ami

^kios, and only
itartly from the
• voyages ; they
to island, being

. Kirby stated

md, he had felt

naiivea exhibit

as seems to bo

he archipelago,

; of the group.
an named JFopc
Island at about
ed Hurd Island
lydrographer to

-It is low and
i length is 6 or
)d except on the
ch extends to o

3 North point of
ersed, on which
iuse the sea does
direction is de-
E., of which the
rms an extensive
, &c., are easily

impletely naked,
ter built, and are

point, lat. 2" 37'
tical with those

lore Byron, July
jlightful appear-
ery conspicuous,
ut it, upon whidi
iV. bide of it, and

TAMANA ISLAND, ET(^

estimated it to be 4 leagues in length. It was very populous, but thoy could
find no landing place. T'lo jwsition is given as lat. 1"" 2.5', long. 176^^ 40' E.

PEBU, or Francis Idand, is also called Peroat, Maria, and Eliza Island, on
former charts. It was discovered by Captain Clerk, of the ship John Palmer,
in 1827. Its population, according to Captain Eandall, is l,oOO. Tho South
point is in lat. 1° 20' S., long (about) 176^ 11' E.

ONOATOA, Onutu, or Clerk Island, may be tlie Botcher Island of former
charts. It is in lat. 1' 50' S., long. 175^ 39' E. Tho population is about
4,000.

TAMANA (or Botcher Island, according to Dr. Gulick) is in lat. 2^^ 3o' S.,
long. 17fi° 7' E. The population is about 3,000.

TAPUTEOTJEA or Bishop or Drummond Island. — This extensive island, or
group of islets, had the second of the foregoing names applied to it by Adiu.
Krusonstorn, from the commander of the vessel, the Nautilus, who is pre-
sumed to have discovered it. In tho chart drawn up from that voyage, the
only island named is Drummond Island ; it is there shown as 26 miles, the
whole length lined with rocks and reefs, outside of which the Nautilus
anchored in 18 fathoms. At 5 miles to tho West of this ro'f is nnotlier,
shown separately on the chart under the name of the Nautilus Shoal, near
which tho vessel passed. Both of those were examined by Captain
Duperrey, in 1824. But the fullest account is that given in Capt. Wilkes's
Narrative.

li was made by the U.S. Exploring ships Peacock and Flying Fish, April 3,
1841. They here encountered the regular N.E. trades. It is situated in lat.
1' 20' S., long. 174^ 57' E. It is of coral formation, 30 miles long in a N.W.
and S.E. direction, and varies in width from half to three-quarters of a mile.
This, however, only includes the high portions, or that which is above the
ocean level a few foet. It is thinly covered with cocoa-nut and pandanus
trees, and not a patch of grass is to be seen, or any sort of shrubbery or un-
dergrowth. To the leeward, or on its West side, the reefs and sand-banks
extend off some distance, gradually increasing from the N.W. point to the
8,E., where thoy are as much as 6 J miles in width. This reef is interrupted
in many places, and there is good anchorage off the town of Utiroa, towards
the N.E. end, near a small sand-band, which is usually bare. The whole
shore of the island, as the Peacock approached it, appeared covered with
houses, presenting to the view one continuous village. At intervals of a
mile there were buildings of huge proportions, far exceeding in size any they
had before met with.

The natives of this island are totally different to those on the islands to the
South. They are middle sized, slender, and well proportioned ; their colour
a shade or two darker than that of the Tahitians, and they exhibited a greater
variety of face and features, with black glossy hair, finer than in other races.
Their features are small, but high and well marked, their (iheok-bones pro-

■■ •rwff j. ' ^w«jj..iL. 't AJaa«.M' ' •«"• ■'' ^'—i' "■ ■?'<»?■ ' ^ stw

712 GILBEET AECHIPELAGO.

jocting, and are the only nativos in the Pacific that havo tho defect of de-
cayed tooth. Altogether they wore thought to resemble the Malays. The
ninjority of them go entirely nakoJ, except a conical covering for tho head of
plaited and bleached pandanus leaf. They exhibited many bodily traces of
thoir warlike dispositions in their numerous scars and wounds. In order to
guard against the destructive effect of their formidable shark's-teoth swords
and spears, they have invented an offectivo kind of armour, a sort of cuirass
of plaited cocoa-nut fibres, as solid and compact as a board, and half an inch
thick. This rises, like a high-backed chair, 3 or 4 inches above the head.
Thoy also draw on more flexible coverings for the legs and arms. Thoir head
dress is still more singular, tho skin of a porcupine fish cut open at tho mouth
to fit the head. They were extravagantly fond of tobacco ; thoir chief de-
sire was to obtain it, and in return thoy always gave something equivalent.
Their canoes were different to tho other islanders, averaging 12 or 15 feet
long, 2 to 3 foot deep, and from 15 inches to 2 feet wide; they are well
modelled, built in frames, and have much sheer ; they are formed of cocoa-
nut-treo boards, sewn neatly together, and use an outrigger, though much
smaller than usual ; one of the sides is nearly flat, and in this respect resem-
h'i the Ladrone proa figured in Anson's voyages.

In Captain Wilkes's narrative, they were much incommoded by the inso-
lence and rudeness of the people, and one of the men having been decoyed
away or murdered, the ship's party made an assault on the town of Utiroa,
which was burnt.

Captain Randall estimates the population at from 7,000 to 8,000, which
will give this small strip of land lb great, if not a greater, number of in-
habitants to the square mile, than any portion of the globe that relies upon
its own resources for subsistence.

Captain Hudson found a bank, on which he anchored, in 15 fathoms
water, at the distance of 4 miles from the island. Opposite to the town
of Utiroa is a long flat, over which, at ebb tide, a boat will not float :
and as it was at low water when they landed, it became necessary to
walk through the shallow to the beach, which was nearly a quarter of a
mile distant.

No lan'''-birds were seen but curlews, golden plovers, turnstones, noddies,
and white terns ; many whales' bones were strewed over tho beach. This
was the first place where they had observed the shells of the Tridachna gigas,
tho gigantic cockle ; they were of enormous size ; the natives used thom for
troughs for many purposes around their houses.

There is neither wood nor water to be obtained at this island, and no in-
ducement to visit it, except to trade for cocoa-nuts.

Good tchaling ground exists in the vicinity, and tho American whalemen arc
in the habit of cruising in this neighbourhood. Those who visit these
people ought to keep a constant guard against treachery, for their numbers

ho defect of do-
9 Malays. The
g for tho head of
y bodily traces of
ids. In order to
rk's-teoth swords
, a sort of cuirass
, and half an inch
I above the head,
arms. Their hoad
Dpen at tho mouth
) ; their chief dc-
)thing equivalent,
ng 12 or 15 feet
ide ; they are well
5 formed of cocoa-
jer, though much
this respect reaem-

)ded by the inso-
ving been decoyed
le town of Utiroa,

a to 8,000, which
;er, number of in-
)e that relies upon

ed, in 15 fathoms
posite to the town
loat will not float:
jame necessary to
irly a quarter of a

urnstones, noddies,
? tho beach. This
the Tridachna giya^,
iives used thorn for

s island, and no in-

)rican whalemen arc
)8e who visit these
•, for their numbers

ARANUKA ISLAND.

are largo, and they aro prone to mischief. All intercourse with tliom
should therefore bo conducted with groat^ caution, especially in ships weakly
manned.

NANOini or Si/denham Island is one of tho early discoveries in tho
group. In tho cliart drawn up by Roger Simpson and George Luss, of tho
ship Nautilus, given in Dalrymple's Collection, it is or was composed of
Dog Island and fivo smaHer islands, separated by a considorablo reef. On
tho original cliart above mentioned, tho S.W. of these islets is called 2\co-
tree Maud, and tho AVest point of Dog Island is called C'(7yM' Moral. It was
examined by Captain Duperrey in his voyage of discovery in 18'21. In tho
Table of Positions by Mr. Tardy there is an account of the discovery by tho
hrig IJlizahctli of Blancij Island, "long, low, and abundantly supplied with
cocoa-nut trees." All these observations, however, give place to those of
the United States' Exploring Expedition, in which, however, tho error is
committed of stating it to bo the samo as the Bishop's Island "of tho
charts."

It lies in lat. 0° 36' S., long. 174° 24' E. It is of coral formation, and a
mere ledge of land like Drummond Island, with a lagoon, reef, and a bank
on its lee or S.W. side. By Captain Hudson's survey it is 19 miles long,
trending N.W. and S.E., and its width, including lagoon and reef, 8J miles.
On the S.W. and N.W. portions of it there is a coral bank, from 1 to 1 J
mile beyond the reef, on which there are 10 fathoms water. At the distance
of 4 miles from the N.W. end of the island they found soundings in 265
fathoms.

Tho island is partially covered with cocoa-nut, pandanus, and other trees ;
and the islets of which it is formed are nearly continuous, connected by the
usual coral reef. They had no communication with the natives of Nanouti.
A daily intercourse is kept up between it and the Drummond islanders. It
was thought there was no difference in their characters. The distance be-
tween them is but 15 miles. The population is estimated at 6,000.*

ABAUTJEA, Nanouki, or Uendcrville Island, was discovered by Captains
Marshall and Gilbert, and was also examined by Captain Duperrey, in 1824.
It was surveyed by tho United States' Expedition.

It is in lat. 0° 11' N., lor j. 173° 39' 20" E. This island is 6^^ miles long,

* From tho North point of this ishmd there was a small island in sight, which was at
first supposed to bo Duporroy's Ilo du Nord ; but if it bo, instead of being located to tho
northward, as ho has placod it, it boars nearly South of tho North cxtrcmo of Niiuouti.
They found, on proceeding towards it, that it was a hummock connected by a reef with
Nanouti ; but no Sablo Island could bo seen. Tho tender passed round tho opposite side
of Nanouti, and did not see any island ; and tho office:. /. of both vessels wore fuUy con-
vinced that no tSable Island exists.

[F.'*SM(W!H**tV!rS»

,^4 r.ILBERT ARCIIirELAOO.

Ea«t and West, and 5i miles v.ido at the East end, diminishing to 2 miloH
at the West end ; it is of coral formation. There are two towns on the W t
nd. and several on the East and S.E. parts, and ^t- th.okly mhab.t^^
The natives who came on board the Feacork said that the two ends of the
inland were at war with each other. They are very much the same m ap-
pearance as the natives of Drummond Island; were naked. -^ «poke the
Lvme dialect. This island allords neither wood, ^ater, nor -fr-^-^^^^
From appearances, its inhabitants (about 1,000) must be at times much

"' KURIA ^ofiroodle Idand was, with Uopper and HenderviUe Islands one
of the first discoveries in the group, by Capts. Marshall and Gdbort. It was
surveyed by the United States' Expedition.

Its geographical position is in lat. 0M4' 30' N.. long. 1.^ 2. E its
greatest iLgth is 5 miles N.AV. and S.E., and its greatest width, which is
ut its S.E. end, is H niHes. The remainder is very narrow and almos
divided towards the centre. The N.W. portion has two small lagoons, 200
.,r 300 yards from the beach ; the water in them is not so salt as the ocean.
In one of them, the bottom consists of red mud on one side whde it is white
day on the other. They are used as fishponus by the chiefs. There is a

reef extending to the N.W. nearly 3 miles. ... . „„„

The island is but partially clothed with trees, consisting of cocoa-nut, pan-
danus, and a few stunted bread-fruit. It has no outer reef, and may be
approached very closely. It affords neither wood, water, nor refreshments^
Xe p elnt population is 1,500, not more than one-tbird of the estimate of
1841 The pLoch took off an Irishman, John Kirby, a deserter from an
English whaler, who had not been roasted and eaten on his landing, but had
had the chiefs daughter given him as his wife. He had thus dwelt as one
of them from Februai-y 11, 1838, to April 15, 1841. He -d that the
natives, though not professed cannibals, sometimes eat humafl flesh ; but

their food is generally fish. „ , ,.

APAMAMA Roger Simpson, or Hopper Island, was one of the discoveries
of Capts Marshall and Gilbert, in the Searhorough and Charlotte, as related
n the voyage of Governor Phillip, 1738. It was not -en by Capt. Duperrey^
The latter commander believed it to be identical with the i)«nrfa. /«?«n<^ of
the briK Elizaleth, 1809. It must also be considered to be beyond doubt the
«ame as the Roger Simpson Island, discovered by Captain Bishop in the
NaMus. A survey was made of it in the United States' ship Peacock, m
1841. This is what is said of it :— ., • • w

According to the observations then made by Captain Hudson, it is in lat.
0" 'IT 21" N long. \n° 57' 30" E. It has heretofore been represented as
two islands"'on the charts, called on one Simpson, and the other, Hopper
and HarUttU ; but there is only one, joined by the same reef
It is about 5 feet above the surface of the ocean, is 10 miles long N.W.

hing to 2 miloH
ivns on the West
lickly inhabited.
;wo ends of the
the same in np-
, and spoke the
or refreijaments.
a at times much

?iUe Islands, one
Gilbert. It was

17;}" 27' E. ; its
t width, which is
rrow, and almost
uall lagoons, 200
salt as the ocean.
), while it is white
;hiefs. There is a

of cocoa-nut, pan-
reef, and may be
nor refreshments,
of the estimate of
I deserter from an
s landing, but had
thus dwelt as one
He said that the
human flesh ; but

) of the discoveries
Charlotte, as related
by Capt. Duperrey.
le Bundas Island of
e beyond doubt the
itain Bishop in the
tes' ship Peacock, in

Eludson, it is in lat.
seen represented as
i the other, Hopper
reef.
10 miles long N.W.

^I.VI.W.V .\N]) TAR-WVA ISLANDS.

71 )

and 8.E., and 5 iiiilt-s iu width North and South. Tlie land "is continuoiia on
thp North and East sides, excepting two smtiU strips of bare roof. There is
anchorage on the West side, in an opening between the reef and the N.W.
point of the island, which is about 2 miles wide. The soundings vary from
2 to 5 fathoms ; across it, in some places, the bottom is broken coral, in
others coral sand. The entrance to the lagoon, although feasible, should
not be attempted through this passage ; but there is a good passage into it
on the S.E. side of the island, which is a mile wide. It has a large popula-
tion, 5,000, but yields little more than will supply their wants. A small
quantity of fresh water may bo had by digging on the beaches ; wood and
refreshments are not procurable for shipping.

MAIANA or Hall Inland. — The name of Hall has been applied to this
island both by Duperrey and by the American Expedition, though there is
great reason to believe that it was previously seen by tho original discoverers
of the group, and then named Gilbert Island. The name. Hall Island, was
given by the commander of tho brig Elizabeth, in about 1809. If so, it
ought to be called Gilbert Island, and the other name has been dropped
by Admiral Krusenstern, who reasoned from the imperfect data then in
existence.

Capt. Hudson gives the following account from his survey of it : —

It is of coral formation ; tho N.E. and S.E. parts are a continuous land,
whilst to the S.W. and N.W. it consists of a reef and bank, in some places
awash, with a sand-spit in its lagoon. Tho western sides of the island are,
therefore, very dangerous, and should be approached with caution, as tho sea
seldom breaks on them, and the discoloration of the water is not at all times
to be observed. The population is 4,000. It affords neither refreshment,
wood, nor water. It is 9 miles in length, according to the survey, in a S.E.
and N.W. direction ; it is situated in lat. 0" 56' 45" N., long. 173° 4' 15" E.
On its West side, on some of the banks, there is anchorage in from 10 to 15
fathoms water.

TABAWA or Knoy Island.*— In this island there is very considerable con-
fusion of names, which, from the imperfect observations recorded, murt bo
left in considerable uncertainty. Knoy Island was discovered in the Scar-
borough and Charlotte. A portion (probably) was named Marshall Island.
Captain Duperrey takes no notice of this name, but applies the name of
Gilbert Island to it. In the periodical publications of 1810 there appeared an
account of the situation of the islands seen by tho brig Elizabeth. It was
presumed to be in the year 1809, but our chart says 1804. Tho extracts
have been preserved by Mr. Purdy, in his tables. In that work there is
an account of the discovery of an island, which was named Cookh Isle, the

* Knox Island in tho American work, which is u perversion. It is Knoy lulaad in the
ori^ii mil.

is.'^»!jsa3eafc5mitg3agtfg;;»t»ryE^ -s^^aim ^^m t f u^a^ nt ^ mf psvtm ' S f^f-rty^i^v^^^rtf^^ii*^*

710 , GILBERT ARCHIPELAGO.

account of whicTi agrooa perfectly with that of tho South side of Knoy
Islard, now under consideration. Thoro is no doubt of their identity. It
may bo assumed, then, that Knoy, Cook, and Marshall Island are meant for

tho same. ^^ • • i n

It was surveyed in 1841 by tho United States' Expedition. It is in length
20 miles, trending N.W. and 8.E. It is in lat. 1° 29' N., long. 173^ 5 E.,
and is of coral formation. The land is continuous and wooded, with tho
exception of four gaps, whore tho roof is bare. The South side is 12 miles
long, and trends nearly East and West. On this part, near the West end
aro three hummocks (which appear like islands in the distance), and several
small sand-banks, which aro connected by the same reef. Tho island has its
lagoon, but it has tho appearance of being an extensive bay, iu consequence
of tho reef on the West side being a sunken ono, on which is found 5 fa-
thoms of water.

This island is partially wooded, having several groves of cocoa-nut trees
on it, and a dense undergrowth. Several tovns were seen on it, and it ap-
peared to be thickly inhabited. It affords no suppUes for vessels. Tho
natives (3,600 in number) aro entirely the same in appearance, in character,
and customs, with the rest ; they go naked, and speak the same dialect.

MARAKI or Matthew Island was also ono of the original discoveries by
Captains Marshall and Gilbert, in 1788. It is much smaUer than either
Charlotte or Knoy Islands, and is situated in lat. 2° 0' N., long. 173° 25' 30"
East It is a lagoon island, without entrances, and of coral formation. It
i but 6 mUes long, N. by E. and 8. by W., and 2* miles wide at its base,
being of a triangular shape.

It appeared to be densely peopled, for many villages were saen, and after
dark a large number of fires wore burning. Captain Randall estimates the
population at 2,000. Their dialect and customs were the same as the rest

of the group. ^ , ,

APAIANG, Apia, or Charlotte Island.— The name Charlotte Islands was
appUed to this coUection of islets by Admiral Krusenstem, from the idea
that the term. The Six Islands, was applied by their discoverer, Captain Mar-
shaU, in the Charlotte. In tho original charts the names of these six islands
were' given as Marshall, Allen, Gillespy, Clerk, Smith, and Scarborough: but
they all lie in one reef, so must bo taken as one. They were not seen by
subsequent navigatv^rs, particularly by Duperrey, who would have cleared
up the discrepancy. The United States' Expedition surveyed it in 1841, and
gives the following account of it :—

Apia or Charlotte Island is in lat. 1° 52' N., long. 173° 2' E. It is a
lagoon island, consistmg of a string of coral islets, situated within a roof,
which is 6 or 7 feet above the water. The reef has a bluff front, and is
much worn by tho sea. There is no coral sand. Its length in a N.E. and
S.W. direction is 16 miles, and its average breadth 5 miles. On tho East

^ :;mntK ' J t "VIJ > ! ' Mtlt^. ': '

;h sido of Knoy
loir identity. It
tud aro meant for

1. It is in length
long. 173" 5' E.,
ivoodod, with tho
side ia 12 miles
ar tho West end,
xnco), and several
Tho island has its
ly, in consoquenco
ich is found 5 fa-

of cocoa-nut trees
I on it, and it ap-
for vessels. Tho
ance, in character,
I same dialect,
inal discoveries by
oaaller than either
, long. 173° 25' 30"
oral formation. It
IS wide at its base,

ere ssen, and after
adall estimates the
le same as the rest

arlotte Islands was
;em, from the idea
verer, Captain Mar-
of these six islands
ad Scarborough; but
r were not seen by
would have cleared
eyed it in 1841, and

. 173° 2' E. It is a
lated within a roof,
bluff front, and is
ength in a N.E. ami
miles. On tho East

MAKIN T8T.AND, ETC. 717

side of tho island tho land is covered with roeoa-nut and pandanus groves,
with some undergrowth. Tho N.W. and West side is a continuous reef, 4
or 6 feet above tho water's edge, on which are many islot;.. About tho
centre of the reef, on tho S.W. side, is a wliip's channel into tho liigoon,
which is half a mile wide. Near its entrance is a small islot, whicli stands
alone, and is a good mark for the entrance. There is no island in tho lagoon,
as shown in the French chart of Duperrey. Population 3,000.

MAKIN or Pitt Mand and Butaritari or Touching Jnland.—Oi tho disco-
yery of these two islands tlnre a])pears to bo no exai:t record. They were
not seen by Marshall and Gilbert, nor by Duperrey ; but they were placed
too far to the East on the chart. Tho name of Touching Island is given to
the westemmoBt island on Arrowsmith's chart. Tlie following is Captain
Hudson's (of the United States' Exploring ship Peacock) account of them : —

There are two islands known under this name ; the largest is called by tho
natives Taritari {Bataritari) {Touching Mand), and the smallest Makin {Pitt
Island). The latitude of the southern port of Taritari is 3° 8' N., longitude
172° 48' E. This island is of the figure of a triangle, with its apex to the
South, and its sides are above 14 miles in length. The S.E. is a continuous
grove of cocoa-nut and pandanus, with some undergrowth. On the two
other sides is a reef, which is awash, excepting the N.W. point, in which
there is a small inlet. The population is 1,500.

Makin is of much smaller dimensions, being but 6 miles long ; it varies
in width from half a mile to a mile. Its northern point lies in lat. 3° 20' 43"
North, long. 172° 57' East. The entrance into the lagoon has 4J fathoms of
water, and is about one-third of a mile in width. This small island is tho
seat of government, and the natives now unite both names under the one of
Makin. When the Peacock approached, it soon became evident that the
island was thickly inhabited ; for, on reaching tho lee side, above twenty
canoes came off, with from five to ten natives in each ; but in one of thom
was a white man, Eobert Wood or Grey, who had been loft on the island by
an English whaler, at his own request, seven years before. Dr. Gulick
estimates the population at 500.

Banaba, Paanopa, or Ocean Island, lat. 0° 52' South, long. lG9°44'East
(Dutaillis), is considered as a part of the Gilbert Islands, but is described
in our South Pacific Directory.

Nawodo, Onavero, or Pleasant Island, is also included in the Gilbert Ar-
chipelago, but it is far to leeward. Captain Cheyne places it in lat. 0° 25' S.
long 167° 5' E. It is also described in the South Pacific Directory.

i!:

- ' i-ywJUM i ^Jll^^ >CT^^^ a wl|^»ffla^?ap!P{igw^<ya f j. '^ i g* ^MuM i

ws«niw«:»F^Wii-T»vt^<s:!-vV^w^»^

( 71H )

MAl^SnALL Al^CniPELAGO.

This extensive collection of islands lie« ^'^^.j;;^;^;'';^,!;.;'^,!!
„ndi«.oparatea from the Oilbovt « -'^^ ^J^ ^^.^^^
The linv. Dr. 1. H- OnV.^ ha« devoted much ^^^^ "^^^^^^^^^^ J ,„„,,„,

an to the other islands of Mi.rone.a and h. -:^T^^^ ,,„ Micro-

f Tlin RTioUinir of the native names is that adoptod ny
hereafter. The sp. ll.np; ^ ^^^^^ .^ ._^ ,^^,^^„^t ,„,t,„u

iiOBian mi««ion-tho PyRtom of Tropins. He c ^^^^_

thatAlvarodeHaavedra visited both ^^-"^^j/^^^;,^^^^^^^^ Captain
turies elapsed before they .ero «^^7j;;^;;f;, ; :X^ 1^^^ ml.
Wallis visited what is now known as the I^-^l^':^' ;;^; [ , Captains
But the most important of the early ^^y^f^^^^ZZoJ^ and
Marshall and Oilbert. ^^ ^^^ ::Z: ^1^^^^ ^oyj o.^-
Charlotte, in their ''-y^^' ^'^"^ ] '!' \l":"" As Captain Marshall was the
„ated in the first colonization of Australia^ uf; w applied to the whole
principal ofhcer of the expedition, his -™; \^ ."^^^^^ Vilb^^^ has been
Lhipelago by ^^7--;;;;^ "^^^ confusion in the

given to that to the southwar^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ,,„« of the islands already

the respective lo^^^tudes given by «^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^,^^ ,,,^, ,f

Besides ^^^ ^-:;;;2:\^^^ ^,, it « decrees to the westward
StrSlllrrL been accidentally discovered by various navi-
gators proceeding t^lndu. ^^^ ,,,3ely-connected groups of Taka
In May, 1816, ^^^tzer^ne succeeding, after
and Utirik, while on his -^ ^jf ^7;^^,^ ^j,,,,, ^his region, and disco-
recruiting at the Sandwich Islands, ho aga
vered and thoroughly explored the f «7 "^^^^^^^^^^^^^

X. Oct. of th-7i;ire!^^^^^^^^^^^ ^-ing only the

islands, and '^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ In October, 1825, on his

three southern atolls ol tno laufe t „dded to his former ex-

.ecoBd ,«yage, he .gain visited W ..taa. >■"' =^^'' f^^,.^ .^, „„.

;r i:i"rrcrr:s:r.uie. ^^ .-^^ »- — --

Trrt.:r;irotts':So"-sr--r'r''

In 1804, the ^^K^^"^ ^ j^ ^ f ^u others, the most im-

;;:;Tal«:":v:i.i.wsi,*a.o.K„uew,o.^

Russian navy.

1,V N. to \r »V N.,
AO lottgues l)V(mil.
this group, us woll
rt< will be followti.l
ptcd l)y tho Micr.i-
it irt almost covtiiiii
klore than two leu-
18 known. Captain
IF Islands in 17U7.
f 1788, by Captains
ips SMrhorough ami
which voyage origi-
in Marshall was tho
applied to the whole
tin Gilbert has been
lie confusion in tho
)f the islands already
^ears later discovered
I great difficulties in
liscrepancies between

is another range of
rrrees to tho westward
erod by various navi-

ected groups of Taka
lary succeeding, after
his region, and disco-
of the Eatak Islands.
rem the North to these
98, so leaving only tho
October, 1825, on his
dded to his former ex-
itak Islands, the most
Bries, though he made
ative names, mistakes
l^ulick.

809, the brig Elhahth,
all others, the most im-
that of Kotzebue, of the

TTIK 1{.\T.\K CHAIN.

71 'I

In 179'J Captain lloiid discovcrod two of tho Kiilik Islands, and in IT'tT
(\iptain Dorniott nnothor.

After Ivotzdhue Captain Duporroy dotorminod ono group in IH'.M ; siniK
wliich they have boon visited by Captain Ilagcnioislcr in IH.'il ; by Captains
Chramtschonko and Hchaii/ of tho b'ussian navy, in 1HJ!», iS.'i'J, and IMJIA;
by the United States' Exploring Kxpodition in IHIO; Capt. Cjioyno in 1H4.').

Several other visits to tlio dill'urtMit islands aro also notic<>d by Dr. Gulirk,
but the most important ovont is tho oatablislimont of tho mission under I )r.
Piorson in Kusaie, in 18.').», which was subsocjuontly romoved to l''bon, whero
it still remains nndor tho charge of the Kov. Mr. Doano.

Two lines or chains of islands, lying noarly parallel tf» oarh other, and
running N.W. and 8.E., are included under the nnTuo Marshall Inlands.
The more eastern is tho H.vtak (tho liadaek of Kot/obuo), and tlu) wi'stern is
the Italik. Each chain numbers fifteen low coralino islands. Several of
these islands are very small, without lagoons ; but the greater number oro
fully formed atolls, and some of them aro of immense size.

The population of the archipelago does not, probably, number over about
10,000 ; 6,000 perhaps is the Katak chain, and probably 1,000 in tho Kalik
Islands. And yet almost every ono of thoir thirty atolls is inhabited ; from
which it may be gathered that the islands aro but sparsely populated. Yet
intercourse with a very considerable portion of the inhabitants is secured by
taking a permanent station, for they roam in their proas from island to
island of their respective ranges. There is comparatively littlo intercourse
between the two principal chains.

Nominally each range is subject to a high chief, or more properly to a
chiefish family. But several of the southern lialik I«lands aro now inde-
pendent of their feudal head, who lives on Aurh. So also in the lialik
chain, the four northern islands are held by a very slight cord of do-
pendance.

The language of the two ranges is substantially the same, though there
are dialectic differences. And though the vocabulary of this lauguago
differs from any spoken in the Caroline Archipelago, its grammatical con-
struction bears the most striking similarity to those westward.

In physical appearance the people are not unlike the Caroline islanders,
as described on Ponapi and Kusaie, save perhaps that they are a littlo
coarser and more vigorous in their manners, and perhaps also a littlo darker
complexioned. They seem more excitable and merciful than any of the
Caroline islanders we have met; but this comes in part from their slight
contact as yet with foreign vice and disease.

It is sad to be obliged to report that disease is now being rapidly intm-
duced among the Ealik islanders by whale-ships passing the islands.

The BATAK CHAIN is the westernmoHt, and contains fifteen islands, in

;.trUt9!KW!BS**»«V!i:

*is-VrMr-#«r?Wfr*fT'«!:y«»Vt!r«t1KSK»&f*r.'*'^»*^?

-.,0 MAUaiTALL AWllll'KLAdo

j:;::.r:r a^^iZna "Inli^a. ^Llt .. .. a...oa i. U. no.

*'ab1 .rolling of thoHo native nan... .11.0. «o much from tho pvovious
orthography, th., older form will bo glvon iu i-uronthoBes.

MILI nnile), or MuJgrave Mand..-1h^ lant of tho«o namo« uas rIvou
miLI, (,.W'«t;. "r^' -> ;., 17«« Thov worn aftorwordrt ox-

hy th«ir diHcovoror, Captam Mar«hall, .n 17H8. Ihoy a i
afuiuod by Captain Dupurrey and Capta.n Chramt.honko. Iho folio. .n,
* \.„ W Dutaillis in 1818, i» tho most explicit.

"Tr Mini- .PPoai to f^™ a *'"" "' »'»"'• "fr'" ,7
,,I . "X.ari...cX,o. on ou. of .Uo .*. of .Uich (..at o- tl,„

'^^, Mll'rof'wHcK .. connoca .K. o.. o«,» .t 1„.
^rraro t^miime. «,p«r.tod at high «.. by tUo .o«, «l..cU mo» o l™

• ! tho« reefs does «ot leaTO B«fflciont Jeplh for a boat to bo oUo to
ZuCrertett of „.ar>, .0 ».e. ; for after a earefu. ^K on., one

fnr ,. lar^e ship and another for boats could bo found.
'^; a ng b"en oS successively from coral, marine productions, and the
deSuof vegetation, they have in the course of ages acc,„ •! tj-r ^r-
with Horo and there are grouped somo trees, amo which aro he
Shous°rThese smaller massesof verdure. inter«ected,.sandybe^^^^^^^^
native nouse ^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^j^^ g,^^ ^o tho

Iw ;. .^rie eTlaVu,ana.. on .Uch ee.o.-n„t .roe., UreaJ f™.
;1Z S. , L. clump, of l.aa.ifu: verdure, having a meet agreeable and

^"Cr:rr:d wi.h .,.». bemg «.e .arge., genera,,, form .bo point,
nrniind which the current runs vory Strong. , , •

In gelral. the whole chain is very stoop-to on tho outside and only in-
creases onTh side of the interior lagoon, where it is loss disturbed by t
soa and where the coral banks are in course of formation, some of the n
a rJy ulvered at low water, and projecting freaueatly a cable's leng^^
n Ithe land When they reach the level of the water, they become, hko ho
slandsakoady formed, covered in their turn by sand and some vegetable.
ltd wilUn the lapse of time be of importance. The population xs about

'"ihe space enclosed by these islands is a real sea navigable for every
:. . n nf vGsscls The bottom, generally at the depth of 22 to 2/

f Z ris now and then nearer thoLface, and shows in white patches.
T^TC^^^^^^ the dangers, also point out the points where t,io
^lormay be dropped. Those banks, bestrewed with rocks, are nevci-

MAJIIUO-AUIINU.

7J1

-Mill, Mmjiini,
uk, M-jit, Utirili,
iwii an tho Hinytli
icribod in tho next

from tho protious

nnmos wivs pivm
pro iil'torwnnlrt ox-
0. Tho f.)lli)wing

l8. Together tlioy
which (that on tho

each other nt low
, wliich luoro ofton
I boat to bo able to
;ul Boarch, only ono

)ro(luction8, and the
icqii d their groat
ao, which aro the
;od i.y sandy beaches
outside, give to tho
lut trees, broad-fniit
most agreeable and

rally form tho points

nitside, and only In-
088 disturbed by tho
iition, some of them
utly a cable's length
they become, like tho
and some vcgotubloH,
I population is about

navigable for every
e depth of 22 to 27
ows in white patches,
the points where tho
:ith rocks, are nevev-

theleM dangerous to amhors und mooringH, bornuso tlioy will bronk thu on*
and chafe tho other, of both (if which (^uptain l>utnilliH sayH lie had diid
nxporienco.

To take the beHt position, attontion ou><ht to bo paid to the rise of the tide
Its level has great influenco on tho quality of tho bottom, and it oni^'lit not
to be chosen, if possible, biit at low wator. Tho paHsago for hu'go ships in
between llarr Inland (pronouncod as if throo r's) and tho island of 'J'ukoeon,
the first to tho East and tho other to the West of the entrance.

To reacli the anchorage with winds from tho oastorn quarter, tho only
point for attention is to take up such a position as will allow you to range us
near as possible to tho pitch of the eastern reef, and rounding tho bank
attached to Harr Island as near as you please ; it is shown by tho whitish
water ; by this means you will avoid a small patch which is to the S.E., and
over which the flood tide runs with a velocity of IJ knot. This patch is,
until half tide, indicated by very strong ripplings, and becomes nearly awash
at low wator.

In general, it is better to enter or leave with tho tide, unless indeed tho
breeze is fair, and of sufficient force to overcome the strength of tho current.
The less distance you are inside the anchorage, the less difficulty there
will be in getting out with westerly winds.

Thero is another passage, but for boats only, between Anil Inland and*
Bouguenieu. Douguecieu is the first islet to tho West of Tokoeoa. The dis-
tance between these two passes may be about 1 J mile.
Position of the anchorage, lat. 6" 14' 37" N., long. 171° 56' 6" E.
Capt.MU Wilkes says they are in lat. 5° 59' 15", long. 172° 2' 33" (probably
the S.l .. part of the island), but his account will not coincide with that given
above.

MA TTRO or Arroiomith (Meduro) Mand.—T\n& is a discovery of Capts.
Marshall and Gilbert, though their account and chart of it are not very
definite. Captain Chramtschenko examined it in detail. The length,
VV.N.W. and E.S.6., is 18 miles, the breadth being 11 miles. It is of the
usual coral formation, with a lagoon, and inhabited by about 1,000 people.

The eastern point of the island is broken, and thero is a small opening for
canoes, but Captain Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star, says, that
he found it continuous and unbroken for 24 miles, the reef and chain of
islets being to the North. It is a magnificent island, with elegant forests of
bread-fruit and pandanus. Cocoa-nuts, of course, abound, and bananas
seem to be plentiful.

According to the tnited States' Exploring Expedition, the S.E. point is
in lat. 7° 5' N., long. 171° 2(J' 54'" E., identical with previous observations.

ABHNO or Daniel Island and Pedder Island.— To the West of the foregoing
the same ships diacovered what they supposed to be two groups, to which
these names were applied, calling the broad and open channel separating
JV(//7/( 2'iriijir. 3 a

..-.. il

MARSHALL AKCnirELAGO.

;l ^0. A„ows.it. Island For.,ce f'^^^^* ^^^^^ ^^I^I
it as a single island. Cartain ChramtschonKo ^^'^ ^t^^ ^^^^^ pj,,,,.
Hudson, U.S. Exploring Expedition, passed along ^e W; f ^^^ j,^^,,
Tsland, and through Fovdyce Tassago. He s ys '^^^ ^^^l^ Arno on
Inlands are of coral formation, and are -^;^^*^f //^^j;";,, ^.E. point
Kot.eWs chart. The population ^ ^^^l^ J'^' J^'Va^ 62' E.
(o' Daniel Island) on Wilkes's chart ,s m lat. . 30 IS., long.
T^e S.W. point (of Peddor Island), by the same authority, is,a . H N. and

''aUM '(Aur) imt^on, or Tracer., Islan^s.-On Arro.smith's chart a

population IS numerous w lu'i ^ , ,., , j. +u^ -NT V. nnd has a very

. -^ •„ oi.nnt 1 000 Stobual Maud, at the JN.i^j. ena, una u j

,,l„.«.nt a^pecl. T' ;■>»<■■» "S^ , utie. of cocoa-

MALOELAB (Kaven), or , Scarborough and C/n/Wo«.,

June 29, 1/88, ana were n ^^^^^ ^^^^

r.r«'^-r:-t*2c:;:^^^^^^^^

;/ ? r «.v« their native namo is Karen (or Ka^-en), and he applies the

r:Tz:i:; "r l.s«) *» *.».. b. o«,* .a,.. *o. ., ..o

"'ThiZup i. 30 milo. tag N.W. and S.E., and Hi .ilc. b^oad. The
,W c'uJr co„.i.t, of .i.t;..four Lland,, and .a, we. .n.«y d by
;-T 1, . Tl„ Btoun and ita people are precisely siimlar to those of tlio
W ^tlthe nor 3. Kal o'r Araltchcef, to the N^W., is «.e large.

M^'of them. iti. 2i->«"-8»*rr"'r; -t: J^^t'so

1.. K- M- 21' N., long. nO° 49- E. The 8.E. island i. in lat. 8 29 30 ,
\Zm' U E Hi^h water, fnU and change, I- 52- ; greatest rise, 4 fe...
KoLl found very good wator in pits on some of .he islands, bnt pro-

visions wore not very abundant.

tZ s a woll-cultivated island, and only useful trees, such as the coc a-
„i p rdanus, and broad-fruit are suffered there. The anchorage oft tins

Cf -;:t;: is in la"B° .;- IO^N., long. n. . .. E. Thence the atoll
trends to the southward, and finally further south-eastward (the island.

■ ^Ly4tij ! M» l 'i<ti. « n'»»w ' ^"-''*^

tf!^itx:.Aiatt

3r. Oulick considers
t seo them. Captain
West side of rcddor
t Tedder and Daniel
ey are called Arno on
000. The N.E. point
N., long. IV 1" 52' E.
rity,i8ia7" 11' N. and

Arro^vsmith'a chart a

donbt aro tho samo

f, and by the natives

, miles broad. On the
r which is Figen- The
• islands, but scanty for
N.E. end, has a very
8' 42", long. 171^ 12' E.
reat quantities of cocoa-
il, as before mentioned,
oups.

)r Araktcheeff Islands.—
arhorough and Charlotte,
ably by Captain Gilbert,
h were then named tho
alvert Islands. Captain
en), and he applies tho
julick calls them by tho

i 11 J miles broad. The
was well surveyed by
y similar to those of tho
, the N.W., is the largest
rters of a mile broad. It
island is in lat. 8° 29' 30",
52"" ; greatest rise, 4 feet.
of the islands, but pro-

l trees, such as the cocoa-

). Tlxe anchorage off this

Torua, which is twice as

35' E. Thence the atoll

uth-eastward (the islamic

ERIKUB— WOT.TE. 7 ,3

being gonornlly small) to Airil.; which is largo (about tho same size as
Torua), and affords a more beautiful prospect than any of the otluu- islands.
Tliore is excellent anchorage in H fathoms water, about GO fathoms from tho
island, in lat. 8'' 31' N., long. 171^ 10^' E. ; riso of tide 4 feet. Tho S.E.
island is in lat. 8- 29' 30" N., long. 17P 1' E. Olot, off which there is an-
chorage in 8 fathoms, coral sand, is in lat. 8^ 4G' N., long. 17P 9' 42" E. (by
chron.) Tho population is 1,000.

ERIKUB (Egorup), or JJishop Junction Islands.— This is four of two groups,
which together were called the Chatham Islands, rum the voyage of tho
Scarborough and Charlotte, probably by Captain Gilbert. Tl'o other group
adjoining, Wotje, appears to have been considered as a portion of it, and
Captain Marshall took them for the Barbadoes Islands, marked upon Anson's
chart. They were surveyed by Kotzebue, who states tho native name to be
Egerup, and also gives the name of Tschitschatjojf to them.

Erikub or Fgerup lies to the southward of Wotjo, and is considerably
smaller. Its length is 24 miles, and its breaJ n is 4 miles. The whole
circle consists of ono reef, and contains but very few islands. The South
point of it is an island, probably named Egerup, the only one seen with
cocoa-nut trees and people ; but these, it was said, wore limited to ono man
and two old women. Dr. Gulick says that it is now uninhabited. A passage
near this perhaps may be navigable, but is dangerous from its numerous
turnings. There appears but little inducemo at for visiting the group. Tho
South point is in lat. 9" 6' N., long. 170" 4' E.

WOTJE (Otdia) or liomanzoff Minds lie to the North of the preceding.
The latter names are applied by Kotzebue, but tho remarks relating to their
earlier discovery also belong to those of the Erikub group, as above stated.

This group was minutely examined by Kotzebue, in January, 1817, and
he has given a largo and detailed chart of it. It is of an irregular oval
form, 28 miles long in a W.S.W. and E.N.E. direction, by about 10 miles
in breadth It consists of the usual encircling reef, on which are distributed
sixty-five islands, cf various magnitudes. Jf'ofje (Wotye) or Otdia is the
easternmost and largest, about 2 miles long. The anchoring place insido
the island, which was called Christmas Harbour (or I'ort Mel), was ascer-
tained to be in lat. 9~ 28' 9" N., long. HO" l(i' 5" W. ; variation, 11'' 38' 30'
East. As the low land here has no influence on the atmosphere, the baro-
meter falls and rises as uniformly as it generally does between tho tropics.
Tho mean of the tidal obfeorvations at Otdia gave for the time of high
water, fuU laid change, 2" -SO™. The greatest range was 7. foot. The people
wore very friendly to Kotzebue, who remained here a coji.sideiable time. To
the South of it is an island called by Kotzebue EgmeiUo, near to tlio S.E.
imglo of the reef; to tho South of it i.s a small high island.

The reef is quito continuous to tho N.W. of Otdia, and on it .stands a con-
nected chain of .siiiall islan.ls, reaching as far as Ormed Island, at tlie North

3 A 2

724 MABSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

part of the reef, 8 miles from Otdia. The anchorage iu this is iu lat. 9
16" lon^. 170° 10' 58" E. ; variation. 12° 14' E.

From Ormed, the North side of the reef, also quite continuous, runs to
W.S.W. 8 miles to Bird Island, and 9 miles stiU further to Goat hland, from
whence to the West end of the reef is 5 miles.

There are several channels through the reef, all on the lee side. The first
is li mile S E. of the West point, narrow and impracticable ; the next is
Ruriclc Strait, 5 miles further round the reef, by which Kotzelme entered.
From hence the reef continues, without islands, nearly 20 miles, to Schmh-
mareff Strait, in every way preferable to the Eurick Strait, as a ship can
beat in or out with the usual trade wind. To the East of this again is Lagedtak
Strait, 4 miles from the S.E. point of the group. The population is given

as 300 by Dr. Gulick. , n ^

LIKIEB (Legiep) or Count ITeiden Islands.— Thia group, first seen by tapt.
Kotzebue, Nov. 5, 1817, perfectly resembles the others, though considerably
smaUer. ' Its greatest extent was 1 9 miles. There is a passage wide enough
for a ship on the western side. The centre of the group is in lat. 9° 51' 30"
North, long. 169° 13' 30" East. The natives of the islands are tall, hand-
some, 'lobult men, advantageously distinguished from the other Eadakers.
They live chiefly on fish. Dr. Gulick states the population 1o be 300. In
his second voyage Kotzebue examined the group more closely, and conse-
quently found it was one-half larger than he at first supposed. On the N.AV.
of the group are several large islands, well covered with cocoa-nut trees.
There are two broad entrances to the Inland «ea, which were accurately
examined, and found to be perfectly safe for a ship-of-the-line, since, ac-
cording to their direction, you may sail in or out with the trade-wind. From
this cause, and the appearance of excoUent anchorage, Kotzebue recom-
mends this group to any navigator wishing to put into Eadak. The N.W.
point of the group is in lat. 10° 3' 40" N. long. 169° 1' 57".

JEMO (Temo) or Steep-to Island, t small island seen in the Nautilus, to
which the latter name was appUed. Oaptain Kotzebue says its native name
is Temo, ajid is in lat, 9° 58' N., long. 169° 45' E., at the distance of 20 miles
E.N.E. i E. from the Legiep Islands. Population 200.

MEJIT (Miadi) or New Year Island, was discovered by Kotzebue, Jan. 1,
1817. It is a low, woody island, 3 miles long North and South, and three-
quarters of a mile broad. From the North side a very long reef extends.
They could not effect a landing on it. It is clothed with a lovely verdure,
and is inhabited by a similar race to those on the Kutusoff Islands, but they
are not more than fifty in numbe/. The island seems to produce but little
fruit. The position of the middle of the island is lat. 10° 8' 27", long. 170°

5V 34" E.

AILVK or Tindal and Watts, or Krmemtern Islands.— Mm. Ki-usenstcrn
considers this group to be the same as that named by Captain Marshall, in

iai

18 iu lat. 9" 3,";

1UU0U9, runs to
oat Island, from

side. The first
lie ; the next is
jtze'me entered.
lilos, to Schisch-
, as a ship can
again is Lagediak
Illation is given

rst seen by Capt.
igh considerably
age wide enough
in lat. 9° 51' 30"
3 are tall, hand-
other Eadakers.
-n lobe 300. In
isely, and conse-
5d. OntheN.W.

cocoa-nut trees.

were accurately
e-line, since, ac-
rade-wind. From
Kotzebue recom-
,dak. The N.W.

a the Nautilus, to
s its native name
stance of 20 miles

Kotzebue, Jan. 1,
South, and three-
long reef extends,
a lovely verdure,
Islands, but they
produce but little
8' 27", long. 170°

^dm. Krusenstern
ptain Marshaii, in

UTIRIK— BIKAR.

725

1 788, Tindal and Watt's Islaud. Kotzebue supposed it to be a new disco-
very, March 1, 1817, and applied the name of the great hydrographer to it.
Its native name is Ailu (or Ailuk). Kotzebue surveyed it.

The group is 15 miles long and 5 miles broad. He entered it by a channel
which was narrow, but deep towards the North part. The eastern side of
the group is formed by a chain of islands, but the western side consists of a
coral reef. Ailuk or Ailu, which gives its name to the whole, is in the South
part. It is small, scarcely a mile long ; it has a pleasing appearance, and in
distinguished from the rest by its taU palm-trees. Capeniur Island is the
northernmost of the group. Kotzebue's anchorage was in lat. 10° 17' 25" N.,
long. 190° 0' 40" "W. High water, full and change, 4" SS-" ; rise 8 feet.

UTIRIE (Udirick") or Kutusojf. or Button Islands. — On a chart inserted in
the voyage of Governor Phillip, two islands are marked as the Button
Islands, from the authority of Captain Marshall, 1788. They were not in-
serted on any other chart, and thus Kotzebue considered them as a fresh
discovery, May 21, 1815, on his pa? -age to Kamtschatka. This group and
the next taken together have almost a North and South direction, and
extend thus for 25^ miles. Kutusojf', or Utirik (or Ulerick), is the only one
inhabited. The island fijst seen by Kotzebue had a beautiful grove of
cocoa-nut trees. The people came off and wore friendly ; they wore of a
black colour, with straight black hair. Present population only 20.

According to Kotzebue, the North point of the reef is in lat. 11° 29' N.,
long. 169° 54' E. Captain Moore, of the Morning Star, makes the centre in
11° 20' N., 169° 50' E.

TAKA (Tagai) or Souworoff, like the former group, consists of small
islands, connected by coral reefs, and seem to contain deep water in the
centre. Though it is thickly covered with trees, not a single palm-tree was
to bo seen. It is uninhabited. The channel separating the two groups is
3J miles in length, free from rocks, and unfathomable depth. The latitude
of the channel is 11° 11' 20", long. 169° 50' 37" E.

BIKAB (Bigar) or Dawson Island, is the northernmost of the islands
hitherto considered as belonging to the Eatak chain. Its second name is
derived from Captain Marshall's chart. Bigar, from the statement of a
native to Kotzebue, forms a circle, consisting, for the most part, of reefs,
and contains only two small islands ; a third is laid in the middle of the
basin, and all are overgrown with low bushes. There ara some boat en-
trances, under the lee of the island, where the natives penetrate to catch
turtle and sea-fowl. The centre is in lat. 11° 48', long. 170° 7'. It is
iminhabited.

Taongi or Smyth, or Gaspar Rico Islands, in lat. 14° 30' N., long. 168° 42'
East, is an uninhabited group included by Dr. Gulick among the Marshall
Islands. But as it is so isolated to the northward, it will be described in the
next chapter.

7.,; MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

Captain Moore, of the Morning Star, says :-Tlio two chains, Ratak and
Rnlik (meaiung East and West), might be regarded some^vhat m the hght
of a large town, with alleys, streets, and avenues running through it, he
inhabitants passing and repassing, engaged in like occupations, -«king th«
same amusements, and governed by the same laws. A great umformity of

character is observed. ^ ^ i. \ ■

That space of ocean comprehended between the two chains, and stretchmj,
from the Bonham Islands, on the South, to the Rimski-Kor.akoff, on the
North, we will call the " Radak Sea." This sea, 300 miles long and 100
broad, has been, as yet, but partially explored, and in which it is supposecl
there exist dangers of a foi-midable character. How far this may be true of
the ^.athern portion I am unable to say ; but having made a cautious sur-
vey of the northern arm, I am prepared to believe that navigation is endan-
gered more by conflicting currents than by labyrinthine reefs As may bo
supposed, among so many islands, there is no regularity to the set of the
current.

The EALIK CHAIN (the lialick chain of Kotzobue) runs parallel to the
Ratak chain just described, and extends to the same paa-allol of latitude-
The character of the separate groups composing it appears to be the same,
and the inhabitants of each are acquainted with each other. The islands
of this range have not been so woU examined (with some exceptions) as the
eastern chain.

There is considerable confusion in the nomenclature, and a difRculty in
reconciling the native names, as at present known, with the earher disco-
veries Of course, in many cases these identifications may bo matters ot
opinion, and therefore unimportant ; but with a view to including the ear her
with the later decisions, the names as formerly connected with each other
will be given where they differ from Dr. Guhck's arrangement, which will
be followed here.

The fifteen islands or groups which compose the Ralik chain commencing
from the northernmost, are-Bikini, Kongelab, Rongerik, AiHnginae,
AVottho (orKabahala), Ujae, Kwajalein, Namo, Lib, Jabwat, Ailinglabelab,
Jal'iit, Kili, Namorik, and Ebon.

KONGE'iiAB (Bigini), or Pescadore Islands.— On September 3, 1767, Capt.
WaUis oascovered two islands, about 35 miles apart, which ho supposed to
be the Pescadorex placed on Anson's chart ; but, from some vagueness in his
positions, they covdd not bo well identified. Capt. Kotzebue, in his second
voyage, has made the matter more clear by the discovery of three groups, of
which the easternmost he supposes to bo the group in question, and says its
native name is Bigini ; but Dr. Guhck applies this name to the Eschscholt/
(.roup According to K..t/.cbue, it is a group of low, thickly-wooded, coral

liONOEiilK-BIKlNI.

7J7

liiins, Ratak and
rhat in the light
5 through it, the
ions, seeking tho
eat uniformity of

ns, and stretching
Koniakoff, on the
lies long and 100
liich it is supposed
lis may be true of
ide a cautious sur-
ivigation is endan-
reefs. As may bo
y to the set of the

uns parallel to the
larallol of latitude-
irs to be the same,
)ther. The islands
I exceptions) as the

, and a difficulty in
li the earlier disco-
may bo matters of
including the earlier
;ed with each other
igement, which will

k chain commencing
ingerik, AiHnginau,
Lbwat, Ailinglabelab,

embers, 1767, Capt.
•hicli ho supposed to
ome vagueness in his
tzebue, in his second
iry of three groups, of
uestion, and suys its
me to the Eschscholtz
thickly-wooded, coral

islands, fonuing, as usual, ii circle round ii basin. Tim groatosl litnglh.
East and West, is 10 miles. Their aspect is pleasant, but no sign of inlm-
bitants ; so that if they bo really tho Tc^scadoros, the people niust have long
ago become extinct, as no monument of their existence is now visible. The
centre of tho group is iu lat. W 19' 21" N., long. 107^ 21' 57' E.

Captain Hudson, of tho U.S. ship Peacock, says it is of a triangular shaiM>,
and has on its reef several islets and some sand-spits ; tlio I'ornior an-
covered with a few low bushes, but it has no cocoa-nut or panduaus trcfs,
an.t affords nothing but tho pearl-oyster and turtles in tho season. Tiien<
aro two entrances into tho lagoon ; one about tho middle of the Nortli side,
tho other on the East side. It had no iuliabitants ; but Dr. Gulick says that
it has 120 inhabitants.

RONGEBIE (lladokala), or Eimsli- Korsakoff Islands, is the second of the
three groups discovered by Kotzobue. lie named it after liis siM.ond lieute-
nant. It is, according to his estimate, 54 milos in extent, in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction ; but it is now known to consist of two separate groups ;
its East point being in hit. 11" 26' 45', long. 167" 14' 20' E.

Tho U.S. Exploring ship Peacock examined it, but coidd not effect a land-
ing on account of tho surf. Altlunigh a few persons wore seen on it, yet
there was no appearance of penuanent inhabitants. It seemed to bo witliout
any vegetable productions capable of sustaining life. Eimski-Korsakoir,
though represented on the charts as one island, consists of fa-o, as b.d'oie
said. The larger island is about 26 miles long, trending N.E. and S.W.
It has an entrance to its lagoon on the South side. Population 80.

AILINGINAE, tho smaller and south-western of tho Eimski-Korsakoll
Isles, is about 14 miles long by miles wide. It is uninhabited. Its S.W.
point is in lat. 11= 8' 20' N., long. 166" 26' 30" E.

BIKINI ( Udia-Milai) or EschsclioUz Islands, is tho westernmost of these
groups. Kotzebue, in October, 1825, named this group after the naturalist
of his expedition. Ho saw only the western part of the group, which ho
places m lat. 11° 40' N., long. 166° 2i' 25" E. Captain Chramtschenko also
saw only its western portion. ' ' Next day we came up with an island named
by the charts Eschscholtz Island. At nocn, December 19th, 1858, wo weie
closG in-shore, in lat. 1 1° 33' N., long. 165° 37' E. Could see twelve islands
lying in an East and West direction. We being about the centre, stood for
a channel 3 miles in width becween two islands. On getting near we could
see the bottom stretching across; sent a boat to sound, found 11 fathoms,
and sailed over, seeing very distinctly the various coloured corals comprising
tho reef under our keel as we dashed along. After passing this bar found
ourselves in smooth water. Soon after saw laud in the N.W. and also in
\\v^ tl.A, also a shoal with 10 iathoms water o\er it; of course I was now
convinced that we hud eutored a spacious lagoou. I counted from aloft four

7.,R MARSHALL ARCHIPELAGO.

teen islands, and the lagoon must be 20 utiles --« '^^ ^^^^"^ J^ho'^n'
.r.A «fnoa out BDeakine a canoe on our way, with a chief on board, who in-
orlTus hatthena^'o of the group was Bigini. We cleared the we^n.
xtLity at sunset, which is a circular reef. This part is very dangerous,
as aU the adjoining islets are sma^ and very low, some of them having only
a f w bushe . I noticed one pecuUarity in this group ; the bars between the
isllds aid shoals inside are more sunken than any we have Boen heretofore
Cith several deep channels into the lagoon. They are a -^ fine r- ^^^^
people, if those in the canoe were a fair specimen. Dr. Gulick gives
population aa 60.

WOTTHO or Shanz Islands, a group of thirteen islands, discovered May
30 1835 by Captain Shanz (or Schantz), of the Russian navy, in the impe-
rial shp^Lv!. on her passage from Port Jackson to Kamschatka. Mr.
Co L mentio;s a group, discovered by a Captain Closly. near this ongx^
tude, about 30 miles to the southward, which prevents them being considered
as the same The Shanz Islands extend about 4 leagues from N^. to
8 E and a^e 5 miles broad. Their centre is in lat. 10" 5' N.. long, from 8
chronometers. 166° 4' E. Population 40.

Another announcement near this is Kabahala Island, from whaler report in
lat 10° 5' N long 166» 45' E. It is most likely the snme as Shanz Island,
but Captain Brown, of the missionary ship Marning Star, reports sailing over
both these localities without seeing anything, but nevertheless there can be
but little doubt of their existence.

KWAJALEIN (KwadeJen), or Catharine Mands.-The English ship Ocean
discovered, in 1804, three groups of islands, which were named Margaretta
Lvdia and Catharine. The Islands Kwadelen (or Quadelen), Namou,and
Lileh placed upon Kotzebue's chart, so exactly igree with these three Ocean
Hands that there can be no doubt of their identity. The Kwajalem or
Catharine Islands, the northernmost, are placed in lat. 9^ 14' N.. and long.

167° 2'.

TJJAE, or Lydia Islands, are the centre of the three groups above men-
tioned, and lie in lat. 9° 4', long. 165° 68'.

The Serpent Group, seen by Captain Hammond, E.N., in H.M.S. Serpent
in lat 9° 14' N., long. 166" 2' E., are apparently the same as Lydia Island,
but there is much confusion in the hydrography of these groups.

Captain Hammond saw a group of islands, surrounded by a reef, which
consisted of a solid waU of coral, with 7 fathoms close to its edge, and 20
fathoms a boat's length off; although on the lee side of it a heavy surf
^^•a8 breaking all over the reef, through which the boat could not find a
passage Captain Hammond says he had just come from the Cathanm.
Islands and therefore considers this to be a distinct group ; and as it wa.

ist. We tacted
a board, who in-
ired the western
very dangerous,
hem having only
bars between the
3 seen heretofore,
very fine race of
Gulick gives the

, discovered May
lavy, in the impe-
[.amschutka. Mr.
f, near this longi-
a being considered
les from N.W. to
' N., long, from 8

m whaler report in
e as Shanz Island,
reports sailing over
aeless there can be

English ship Ocean
named Margaretta,
lelen), Namou, and
h these three Ocean
The Kwajalein or
9' 14' N., and long.

groups above men-

in H.M.S. Serpent,
ae as Lydia Island,
) groups.

)d by a reef, which
to its edge, and 20
J of it a heavy surf
sat could not find a
from the Cathariiu'
■oup ; and as it wa,'?

NAMO AND JABWAT ISLANDS.

7 'J!)

not found on his chart, he named it the 8erp«;nt Group ; the position he gives
is nearly that given to Lydia Island.*

Lae, or Hmcn Islands, is a discovery in the missionary ship Morning Star,
December, 1858. Her commander. Captain J. \V. Brown, thus describes
it : — " Sunday morning, the 19th, was surprised at seeing land very near a-
head, as none is shown in my charts in that place. On coming up with it,
found it to be a group of fourteen islands, encircling three sides of a beauti-
ful lagoon, the western part being protected by a reef, with a small channel.
A canoe came oflP, having two men on board. I gave them some presents,
asked the name of the group, which is £ai or Jiai, and left this little gem,
the lagoon of which is about 4 miles across, and lies in North lat. 9° 0',
and East long. 166° 26'. The canoe brought oflf some very fine bread-
fruit and cocoa-nuts." Dr. Gulick states that the population is 500.

NAMO, Margaretta, or Paterson Islands, is the southernmost of the three
groups discoverod by the Ocean. There can be no doubt of the identity of
the Margaretta Island of the ship Ocean, in 1804, and the Paterson Islands
oi t\iQ hn^ Elitaheth, m 1809. This island, or as it appeared a group of
islands, had a very fertile appearance, being one continuous chain of cocoa-
nut trees. It lies about W.N.W. and E.8.E., low, and well wooded. Lat.
of South extreme, 8° 55' 48', long. 167° 42' E. It may be the Dove Island of
Captain Moore, of the Morning Star.

ZhS^ti!^ (or Tebut), or Princessa Island.— There is considerable confusion
in the next three groups, arising out of the imperfect descriptions and vague
positions assigned by different discoverers. Dr. Gulick considers this island
to be the Bonham Island, discovered by the Elizabeth in 1809 ; but this cannot
be, the latter is an extensive island. It is most probably the Tebut Island
of Kotsebue's chart, and the Princessa Is 'and of Captain Dennet, of the Bri-
tannia, in lat. 8° 20' S., long. 167' 30' E., which was also seen by Captain
Hagemeister.

It was seen by Captain Dunn, of the barque Dragon, in 1856. He came
within 5 miles of a small sand island with low bushes, 6 miles in circum-
ference, inhabited, and surrounded by a coral reef 1 mile from shore. Lat.
8° 20' 8., long. 167° 46' E. Notwithstanding the discrepancy of the size re-
ported, they are probably identical. The mean of the positions given (ex-
cluding Kotzebue's longitude) is lat. 8° 20' S., long. 167° 34' E.

It was also seen by Captain Moore, in the Morning Star. He says :

" Going aloft, I perceived at once that we were approaching a compact, small
coral island, not being more than a mile and a half in circumference. Well,
is this a discovery ? It is not marked down on the latest charts, either Eng-

• A .7»-o«i/; o/ is/««rfs, from whaler report, in lat. 9" 1' N,, long. 161" 40' E., is very
doubtful.

"SI?"

M.Ul8nALL ABCnTPELAOO.

Uland,, .nd I k-ow th.. .t .o»ld bo an ea.y J ^^ ^^^^^ _. ^^ ^,_^,„

rro:a-.rj.:°r,:ror.Ld.u....N.,--.
je.ris:orc:p:i>^rra::.:de»... c...aM„o.e.u..

it in lai. 8" 15' N., long. 167 28 E. ^^ .^^^ ^^^,,^ ^.^^

AILINGLABELAB. «\^-^«^"^/"aay Ir his making the Baring
,Wouby captain Bond who .aw t^^^^^^^^^ coast, o^ above twenty

Islands, December 16, 1 92^ Ue ' 8 ^^ ^^^^^,,3. Thoy all

small islands, lying nearly S by E. and r.. y ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ j

appeared connected by -^^ J^^Jj^^^^^^^^ and full of inhabitant,

to 6 milos. They arc al -J^^l^^^^ \^ ^^^,^ ,,,a. They arc very
.vhich were seen m great ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^,^^, ^ight run ou the reel
low and dangerous, and a ship xn thick wo

without seeing the land. composed of two per-

Accorfing to Captaia Ctaan,Uohoako>e g^^ P .^ ^^ ,_^^^„.

be that retained. TV,i« m-oun was named by the Mizabeth, in

HELTJT or Mmore ^«"-\^^^ ^^"^ ^^^^ discoverer saw two small,

her passage from Port Jackson ^J^^l^J^^,^^,,^os.ys that it con^

round islands. °^«d«'**«^y/^^'^\'''^* ^^^ ones, connected by coral

.ists of a large island and ^^^^ ^went^^^^^^ o^ ^. ^ ^ ^ ^^^ ^^^^^^

reefs, extending 20 miles -J-^^^^^d 'the ChranUsckenko Islands. The
i„ hreadth. They are sometim s ^ed ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^.^^ ^^^^
southernmost island IS in lat. 7 5 « ^hat the native,

positions origindy stated. CaptamC ^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^.^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ , ,,

irS^Trymu^btrlamin^edbeforeanysatisfaetorydes.^^^^^^^

KILI AND E]5C)N ISLANDS.

(31

doBcription of tlio

small an island
Vest Bido. Thcro
mon, women, and
idanuB, and a fow
» 15' N., and long.

•ibed. It is stated
iBiders it to be the
uptain Moore places

Musquillo Group was

, making the Baring

sts of above twenty

compass. Thoy all

1 each other from 1
i full of inhabitants,
ich. They are vory
Lght run on the reef

ompoBcd of two por-
ancoitmightbotakon
in lat. 8" 0' N., long.
', long. 168° 0'; the
jlands have an extent
breadth is lU miles,
t portion, and IIosh to
t the prior name must

,d by the Mizabeth, in
severer saw two small,
chenko says that it con-
ies, connected by coral
) S.S.E., and 12| miles
amtschenko Islands. The
learly according with the
} says that the natives
and since followed, it is
r satisfactory designations

zaheth discovered, in 1809,
h1 together by low saml
.'h water. I'lom one of

those banks came a vory liandsomoly built small eanoo, with four mon in it,
stout and woU mado, and apparently friendly. From the S.E. point of the
island a very dangerous, low, sandy point, with scarcely a tree or bush on
it, extends to the eastward and northward, 2 or 3 miles, with a very heavy
surf breaking on it." The island was called G. JJon/unn's Island. This group
has since been examined by Capt. Duporrey, who called the northern por-
tion Coquille Islands, and the southern part Elizabeth Islands, from the ships
which discovered them. According to Captain Chramtschenko, the group is
30 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and 20 miles broad. It is com-
posed of four largo islands, nineteen others smaller, and one in tho centre of
the group, separated from the others. There are three entrances to tlio
group, one to tho North, another to tho West, and the third to tlio S.E.
Krusenstern considers that the Kyli of Kotzebue's chart cannot be 13onham
Islands, but tho names are still repeated together.

It was visited by Captain J. W. Brown, in the missionary ship Murtiintf
Star. Ho anchored in its lagoon on December 2nd, near the spot where, 5
years since, a trading schooner was cut off. Captain M'Kenzio and all
hands, save one, were killed. The Bonham Group, or Chelnitt (Jaluit) of
the natives, is full 40 miles North and South. Its South point is in lat.
5° 47' N., long. 169" 36' E. In width it will average about 8 miles. Its
form is irregular. The various islands are very beautiful, and abound with
the same fruits as the Mulgrave Group. At our visit, breadfruit was out of
season, and at such times cocoa-nuts and pandanus constitute their only
food. The people number from 300 to 400 only. More shoals were found
in this lagoon than in any we have seen. They are large and numerous ; a
vessel could hardly remain under way in the night without striking on them.
They are composed of very sharp and hard coral, and we narrowly escaped
oace in the daytime, though we constantly kept a look-out aloft. — f Nautical
Magazine, June, 1859, p. 283. y

KILI {Namurech), or Hunter Island. — This island was first seen by Capt.
Dennet. It is stated to be 2 miles in extent from N.W. to S.E. The
position assigned was lat. 5° 46', long. 169° 0'. Its position agrees with
the Namureck of Kotzebue's chart, and was named Hunter Island. It is
uninhabited.

NAMABIK or Baring Islands. — Baring Islands were discovered by Capt.
Bond, in XhQ Royal Admiral, December 15, 1792. Thoy are two in number,
both very low, and covered with trees, amongst which tho cocoa-nut was very
conspicuous. They appeared circular, and of no great extent, seemingly
joined by a reef ; they were named after the chairman of the court of direc-
tors of the East India Company. The position was only inferred as lat. 6°
35' N., long. 168° 13' E.

EBON, Boston or Covell Islands. — From information given by Captain
Duporrey, those islands wero discovered May 25, 1824, by an American

MARSHALL ARCnirKLAOO.

'^'^ ' I all«.l them Boston Iblands. The

veHHol. undor Cavtain George Uay, -'^ -^^^^^^.^can commander, of the
.ame of Covell (or CoweU) «;;«;PJ^;° ^^^ ^overy in IKlU. Captain
Laniue AlUonce, who thought thorn a new ^^^^ ^^, ^^^^ ^^^ ^,

;Sr:;t^--^'-- .h; towing . a recent account of

^^^--onpconsisteofthirteenl^co^

tree, and connected by coral " j'/^J^,;^^^^^^^^ leading through tho
i» 30 miles in circumference. »^'«'. ^ ^""ViJP^i^V inhabited by an able-
.,ef to the lagoon on the West s^do -j^; j^^^^^ They have

bodied race of men. who are ^lll'^\^^^^^^ fifty%nen. When Capt.
large canoes, or rather proa.. -P^^ ^fj^^,,^ he was attacked outside

__! visited these islands, m Feb'""^ ^«^ ; ^^^^^^ ^^, nearly taken.

tho reef by three proas caj.)^ng 150 men a ^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^„„,,a, the

but after a struggle, in whxch four of

yessel was retaken. . ^^^,, announced. They

Besides the above, the g^^/*^^ "^ «l " and placed in lat. 4" 30' N.,
bave been caUed Linn. Islandsjy l^^;^^:), J Group.

long. 169° 30' E. l*\-^;7f;iX 1.0P^^^*«^-^^^^ narrow stnp.
It is thus shown to be a ^^'l'^\}\^ s„,,th, and S.E. border
stretching quite 8 ^^^^ ;^«".^,^'; Clall ; most of thorn wore patches,
of the atoll. AUtheotherj^^Unds-e^- J ^^^^^^.^,^^^^^^

.o insigniacant ^^^^^f^l^Z^^'^^^-- ^ «^' ^^ ^^^^ '"'^ ''

The croup, accordmg to these au
E Dr. Gulick says that the population « 1.000.

3^rWET0K. or Bro.n Oroup^^^^f^^.^^^^^^^^ ^^

in the ship ^^«'i'»'^'^«^^°^^"c^;i aad also the North Island Arthur^^
after the chief super-cargo t Canton ^^^ ^^^^^^^^ p„ry's Island lat

7«;«ni. lat. ir 43' N^,^«^S. ^^^ ^^ ^ ^.^.^ely examined by Capt.

11° 19' N., long. 162° 52 E. They were ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^j^^,

ream, in the snow ^-^^V^^r'^^J^s Parry's Island is not only
. i«lands^a.U«. ^f ^'^s Bant bu th'e eastern boundary of a most
the southernmost of Brown s Range bu ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^

aangerous and extensive hneof^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,,^„g, ,,leh a

a degree of longitude, without a sing e pp ^^ .^^^^.^^^ ^^^^

stranger should attempt to go O-P*;^^^ ^

Capt. Butler's. ^-^ ^«^^ "« n the R^k chain of the MarshaU Island.
L Gulick includes t^e- -^^;^:^^ ^u^ it by the first name. The
although so far removed from ^em ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^

few natives, only 30 m ^^f ^J'/P^November 1827. He ran along the coral

IJILONG ISLANDS.

T.',:i

ton IttlandB. The
lommander, of tho
n I8:n. Captain
'. They are the
recent account of

rod with cocoa-nut
a iniiido. The group
eading through tho
habited by an able-
.lexion. They have
men. When Capt.
^8 attacked outside
el was nearly taken,
verely wounded, the

n announced. They
lacodinlat. 4"30'N.,

Group.

I very narrow strip,

ith, and S.E. border

of thorn wore patches,

rtoen islands.

10 35' N., long. 168° 47'

Captain Thos. Butler,
,d them Brown Eange,

North Island Arthur'*
lem, Parry's Island, lat.
tely examined by Capt.
He named two other
irry's Island is not only
ern boundary of a most
ch occupy more than half
)aB8age through which a
Bitions are identical with

of the Marshall Islands,
t by the first name. The

II Island language.

27 . He ran along the coral
^s ; on the reef are thirty

low islands and reefs, enclosing a lagoon. It is a circular atoll, 20 milos in
diameter from North to South, and '26 miles from East to West. Arthur
island is in lat. IT 40' N., long. IBS'- 16' E., tho Wtmt oxtmmo of tho atoll
in lat. ir 30' N. and 161" 58' E., and Parry Island to the 8.K. in 1 V 21 N.,
and 162' 25' E.

UJILONO, Arrecifon, Cambo», or Providence iMlandH.— On tho early Spanish
charts two groups, under the names of Arrecifos and Oasobos or Casbohas,
where shown hereabout. But thoir existence wos not verified till 1811,
when the ship Providence discovered a group, to which the name of the ship
was applied. Dr. Gulick, who calls the native name lljilong, says that thoro
is but one reef here, so it must includo the two older notices. lie says tho
population of Ujilong is 1,000.

It was visited in 1864 by Captain James, in the missionary ship Morning
Star. He places it in lat. 9° 52' N., long. 100" 56' E. Other authorities
place it in 9° 31' or 9" 36' and 161° 8' E. Captain James says that it has the
form of an irregular parallelogpram, extending E. by 8. and W. by N. 12
miles by 5 miles broad. There are ten islands on the reef, the largest one
on the East ond. Two passages lead into the lagoon on the South shorn, the
best of which is about 5 miles from the East point. Although to the west-
ward of the Ralik Chain, the natives speak the Marshall Islands dialect. —
{Mut. Mag., 1864, p. 433.)

It was also visited by the Bundonald, Captain Kewley, in 1867. He speaks
of the large quantity of cocoa-nuts, and places the southernmost island in
lat. 9° 47' N., long. 161° 15' 45" E. Captain Richards, of the ship Charlotte
Jane, says (1868), that it is 12 miles long E.8.E. and W.N.W., and perhaps
7 to 10 miles from North to South. There are several islets in the lagoon,
and the reef on the North side runs out 3 or 4 miles beyond the islets. The
position accords with Capt. Kewley, so that the mean positiop of the centre
of the atoll may be taken as lat. 9° 39' N., long. 16P SJ' E.

In conclusion we may again refer to the unsatisfactory state of the hydro-
graphy of the Marshall Islands, and especially of the Balik chain. It is im-
possible now to reconcile the early longitudes, and the great variations which
are evident in this respect has led to very great confusion. Until a more
complete examination of them is made, the nomenclature of the islands must
remain in this confused condition.

( TM )

THE (WTiOT.lNE AucnirELAao.

Thin pxtonmvo rfttiRO of islamls Mas, until rocont tim<-8, comimratively un-
known. ThiB i(,Mi(n-anco, and tlio terril.ln mrounts of tl.oir clangcrous clui-
ractor givon by variouH Tiavigatnrs who had (tohs.mI tho chain, causo.l ihon.
to bo tlio 8ul)jott of tho grout.^st droad to all ccnimuudora sailing in thoir
vicinity. All those foars and doubtw huvo, liko most othors of thoir kind,
Leon dispelled by tho more o.xact knowledge which modern science gives
of the actual character of the Bubjocts it is appliod to. It is chiolly to
the voyage of Captain Duporrny, in tho French royal ship la CoqitiU,; in
18-2;5, and to the surveys of Hear- Admiral Liitko, of tho Knssiau corvette
La Srniavine, that wo owe our present geographical k.iowledgo of thoBo

islands.

It has boon thought that the first notice of any portion of those islands was
given by nii-ffo ih Roche, a Portugueso, in 1525, as tho Seqwirot Mrx, but it
is probable that his discovery was to the westward of tho group. Tlio same
may bo said of tho liei/es Mandu, discovered by Alvaro de Saavodra, in
ir)28. Th(. first whoso claims have any weight ere Villalobos and Migucd
Lopez de Lcgaspi; tho first in 1643, tho second in 1565, but neither of
their discoveries can with certainty bo recognised. The celebrated Sir
Francis Drake also discovered a portion of tho range, Sept. 30, 1779. Tho
next in order is Lorenzo de Baretto, who, in 1595, saw a largo inhabited

island in tho group.

In 1086 the Spanish admiral, Don Francisco Laieano, discovered a
large island, > nhich he pavo tho name of Carolinr, in honour of tlio
consort of tho rei^,. ^-ng, Charles II., but which island it is not nou-
known. It gives the nu.^ *o the archipelago. Tho name of tho New
Philippines has also boon applieU, but that has lo.'ig boon in disuse.

Among tho more complete oarly accounts of the Carolines is that by tlio
Jesuit padre, Juan Antonio Cantova, who visited several of the islands in
1721, and during bis second voyogo thither, in 1731, was killed at the Island
Mogmog. Several navigators havn visitdd portions since that time, as i.s
related in the subsequent particulars , but, as stated in the first instance, tlio
chief sources of information ^t-;. 'J -3 works of Lutke and Duperrey. Of the
first-named commander it may be stated, that it was his intention to havo
drawn up an account, strictly nautical, of the portions of tho group visited
by him, but it was omitted for want of leisure in the nautical portion of his

work.

ThoCarolinn Islands, according to Krusonstom and I^iitke, oxtoiid from tlic

Pelew Islands on tlu' ^^'est, to Ualan on the East, and from 2^ to 12^ Nortii

THE ('AlfOlJNK ATl('inPKI,\<K).

7SA

inrativoly un-
ngcrous clm-

cauHoil thorn
lliiig in tlioir
of thoir kind,
seiciico gives

ia chiolly to
Crt CoquiUi', in
Hsiau corvotto
)(lgu of thoHx

ae islands 'wns

> Mfn, but it

p. Tho Biimt)

Saavodra, in

9 and Miguel
lut neither of
jelobrnted Sir
0, 1779. Tlio
rgo inhabited

discovorod a
honour of tlio
it is not now

10 of tho New
isuse.

is that by tlio
tho inlands in
i at the Island
at timo, as is
st instance, tho
errey. Of the
jntion to havo
group visited
portion of his

xtondfroni tlie
2^ to 12'' Nortii

latitude. Ihit thirt distinetion in somewhat arbitrary. The natives of tin-
Hatak and b'aliU elmins bfloii)^ to thi* same raee, s<i thrtt tho proposition of
Dr. ChaniiHso to ineluilo all tie se inlands in tilt .,»(il^ dononiination of the
Marianas is not without weight. Uuf if it he ueeessary to iuh)pt any divi-
sions, it would be necessary todisfingviisK thftt part ot the CiirolineH extend-
ing from tlio Mortloek to tlii» Oulnthy gVi^up, whirh ainne in inliabited by a
nautieal and eoinnnireial people. The nation.s more Kast or West do not
participate in this distinetion.

The information eoUeeted by tlie missionaries, and the charts drawn up by
them from native re^-orts, wero for lu'arly a century the only guides to navi-
gators. Hut they could neither det(»rmino their relative sizes or position:* ;
BO that many islands scarcely visible on tho surfiuMs of tho ocean, having a
namo as woll as tho larger groups, wore placed as if miles in extent, and
groups of 10 or 15 would occupy tho extent of several degrees; this made
the charts an inoxtricablo labyrinth. Then tho conuuanders who crossed the
lino of tho ardiipolago in dilforont directions, instead of mooting with en-
tiro archipelagoes, wore astonished to find cither no indications of land, or
olso some small spot to wliich they wore delighted to apply some favourite
namo, which then took their places in tho chart, without superseding tho
older ones. The native names also aro frequently repeatod, and disfigured
bothby thodifforei,' pronunciation in various parts of tho group, and by
dilferent systems of orthography. Such a chaos arose from all this, that
any ehicidation became a hopeless task. Such was tho state of their geo-
graphy before tho Coquille and Hiniavine cleared up all dtiubts, and declared
their real character and number.

Among tho later authors who havo < lucidatod tho geography of the archi-
pelago in a more complete manner, may bo enumerated Captain Cheyne,
Comr ndor of tho Naiad, and tho Eov. Dr. L. U. Oulick, of tho Hawaiian
miss; i, to whom wo have before referred.

The Caroline Islands consist of forty-eight groups, forty-three of which are
coral atolls, and five of them aro basaltic surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
Those coral islands aro immensely popidous for thoir area. Capt. Lutko
considered that the total length of those islands would not exceed 100 miles,
and as most of them do not exceed 200 yards in breadth, the entire area of
the habitable portion of tho atolls would not bo more than 15 square miles.
Dr. Gulick estimates the area of the entire archipelago as 877 square miles,
and the number of people in 1860 as 18,000. They aro claimed as a Spanish
possession, but it is merely nominal.

The inhabitants of all these islands arc scions from the same stock. Cha-
misso considers them as tho same as all tho Malay tribes peopling eastern
I'olynesia. The works of Chamisso, the notices of Dr. Mortens, on tho peo-
ple, of Capt. Diitko, Kotzebue, and others, nmy bo consulted with great in-
terest on these and similar points.

' :;^-r<s^^ i^:»)^i^^ :'itw:!!^:^Wm>^^?^J "-^»>-"'-' -- "-"--v.^--^'-"'

HbUnHI

730 THE CAROLINE ARClIIPELACxO.

I)r Gulick says that many different dialects are spoken on its widely se-
parated islands, though they are evidently dialects of the same mother
tongue, and are strongly aUied to the MarshaU Island dialect, and even to
the language spoken on the Gilbert Islands.

Climate— We have no general account of the winds and weather of the
whole archipelago, and from the fact that it lies in the belt of doldrums, or
equatorial calms, there is considerable difficulty in defining the conditions of
the weather in any particular seasons. Admiral Krusenstem says -.-But
we learn from the relations of several navigators that the N.E. winds arc
not the prevailing winds, which is confirmed by the fact that the inhabit-
ants of several of the western islands having been carried m their canoes
towards the East and N.E., a proof that during a portion of the year the
winds blow from the West. The Pelew Islands are, as is known, in the
limits of the monsoons, which may extend to the meridian of the Maiiana
Islands, and even some degrees beyond that, up to the point where they
are arrested by the regular trade winds. This last part seems to be proved
by the circumstance that the inhabitants of the Carolines, who perform then-
annual voyages from Lamurek to Guahan, situated several degrees to the
East of that island, generally embark, from what M. Chamisso states, lu
AprU returning in May or June ; that is, they start towards the termination
of the eastern monsoon, probably that they may not have long to wait for
the return of the westerly monsoon, with which they return in May or June,
when this monsoon is found to be in its greatest strength. M. Chamisso
draws a conclusion from this opposite to that which M. Krusenstem does.
He says that the islander, return in May or June, before the westerly winds
set in; however, it is known that the westerly monsoon never comes later

than the month of May. , . ,, »

The best ax=count of the weather, &c., at Ponapi appeared in the American
Journal of Science, from the pen of Dr. GuUck. The following is extracted

from that account :— ,,,.,., j ^i.

No island of the whole range, not even of Micronesia (which includes the
GUbert MarshaU, Caroline and Mariana Islands), has yet been made a point
for accilrate meteorological observations, which wiU enhance the value of

records on Ponapi. n. v \ t ^r„

"ThefoUowing meteorological averages, deduced by Mrs. Guhck from
her daily observations, extending through a period of throe years, 1853--
1855 will speak for themselves of the more important topics connected with
cUmate It is to be regretted that the want of necessary appliances has ren-
dered these observations much loss extensive through the whole field of me-
teorology than we would gladly have made them.

"Average for three yean : Temperature.-Moan at sunrise, 78=.28 ; mean at
noon, 8.r.3l ; mean at sunset, 79°.27 ; maximum, 89" ; minimum, 70°; range,
19°; mean, 80°.28.

so.

ken on its widely so-
I of tlio same mother
[ dialect, and even to

Is and weather of tlie
lie belt of doldrums, or
fining the conditions of
jusenstem says: — But
it the N.E. winds are

fact that the inhabit -
iarried in their canoes
lortion of the year the
:g, as is known, in the
aridian of the Mariana
I the point where they
art seems to be proved
lines, who perform their

several degrees to the
M. Chamisso states, in
towards the termination
; have long to wait for

return in May or June,
strength. M. Chamisso
1 M. Krusenstern does.
lefore the westerly winds
isoon never comes later

ppeared in the American
he following is extracted

lesia (which includes the
las yet been made a point
ill enhance the value of

ed by Mrs. GuHck from
of three years, 1853 —
ant topics connected with
issary appliances has ren-
gh the whole field of mc-

,t sunrise, 78°.28 ; mean at
9" ; minimum, 70°; range.

THE CAROLINE AECIIIPELAGO. 737

"There are few wl- ^ill not remark the astonishing uniformity of tom-
perature exhibited in the preceding summary. It is to bo questioned whothor
there exists a series of observations exliibiting as groat a uniformity in any
part of our globe. The South Seas, generaUy notorious as they are for
salubrious equability of temperature, have probably not yet presented any-
thmg eqiul to this. ^

" The moan daily range is about 5^

" The mean difference of successive days is al)out T.

. 7 Jo^' ^^T '"""" °^ *^' thermometer, during three years was from 89=
to 70 only 1 9 .

" The mean temperature of the three years was 80°. 28.
_ "It should be remL-rked that the observations till May, 1850, were made
mamostpecuharly unfavourable locality, which greatly exaggerated and
distorted the thormometric conditions. The remaining observations wore
made from a ocality such as would always be sought for a residence, and
wiU without the slightest difficulty be found in every part of Ponapi Bv
these It appears that the yearly mean is about 80°.5O ; the utmost range
about 12 ; the mean at 7 a.m. about 78°; at noon, about 85°, and at 9 p m
about 79°.50. * ',

" Facts to be stated in connection with remarks on the winds and weather
will sufficiently account for this singulai- equabUity, particularly when it is
remembered what an immense expanse of ocean surrounds aU these Micro-
nesian Islands.

Wmds.-The following Table shows the distribution of the winds H the
different months of 1854 :—

Months.

January-
February
March , , ,
April , . ,

May

Juno , , ,

1 -

t; 13

>■:

m f

0,2

>.<J

f-..S

&-^

cS'C

«(2

•3

2i)

Months.

July , . . .
August ..
September
October , . ,
November,
December ,

■g a
S

6
15
29

>>.S

24
10
10
16
1

3
It

The predominating winds are the N.E. trades. During the northern
"*er, while the " "

whole system

JVurt/t Pacific.

winter while the sun is in southern declination, and while, consequentlv
the whole system of aerial cuiTcnts is drawn to the South, the island

'l.i^

sFsmk^si^^mm-:.

73g THE CARlJLTNE ARCiUVELAGO.

i. fuUy exposed to thmr action. Tlus reriod usually lasts from December
to May, ineluHive; though there is much dilfereuee in different seasons.
At times tlie trades do not set in till January, and again they begin to
blow steadily as early as November, and they ceaso blowing at any pe-
riod from April till Juno. There aro certain seasons when they are but
fuint even during the dead of winter, as in January and Februaiy, 1856;
and, again, they may continuaUy intrude themselves during all the summer,

as in I80G. , . « , i .

CuRUENTs.-During the period when the N.E. trade is freshest, strong
westerly currents are generally experienced. From the middle of August
to the middle of November, when strong westerly winds, with heavy squalls,
may bo expected, strong easterly cun-ents prevail.

On the subject of currents, they have been found very violent to the South
of the Pelew Islands, bearing to the East, at the rato of 2 or 3 miles an
hour, particularly in the months of Juno, July, and August, that is, during
the strength of the S. W. monsoon. In the memoir on the cm-rents, mention
is made of this current, which occupies a zone of 60 or 70 leagues in
breadth, and extends from the Pelew Islands to the meridian of 148" or Ur

E. longitude.

Gales.— It may be remarked that the severer class of gales are a;.a ; ..in
tively unknown here. The typhoons of the China Sea, and even of the sen.;
North of the Marianas, about the Bonin Islands, rarely (if ever) extend to
this island. Yet once, during the youth of a few of the very oldest inhabit-
ants now living, a desolating wind swept over the island, so tearing up the
bread-fruit trees— the principal reliance for food— that an awful famine en-
sued, and large numbers died. It would seem possible that this was a cy-
clone. And it is very interesting that a similar gale produced similar results
at Kusaio, or Strong Island, 5 degrees East of Ponapi, and that, too, in the
memory of the very oldest inliabitants. May not this have been the very
same erratic cyclone that swept Ponapi ?

Weather.— Without being able to give accurate udometric figures, the
observations recorded regarding the general character of the days exhibit the
fact that there is much humidity, though nothing excessive. Situated just
on the southern confines of the N.E. trades, and under the northern edge of
the cloud zone that hovers over the equatorial regions betAveen the two trade
wind zones of the North and South hemispheres, the island is constantly ex-
posed to precipitations from above. Before the trade winds reach the island,
they have made their passage over thousands of miles of ocean, and have
become saturated with moisture ; so that, as soon as they impinge on the
central elevations of the island, some of which are 2,858 feet in height, the
clouds are arrested, and showers fall ; and, as the island is but little more
than 15 miles in diameter, thoy readily pasp over tliom and water the lee no
loss than the windward .-lopoB. And again, during the aummer, while the

lasts from December
in ilifForout seasons,
again thoy begin to
I blowing at any pe-
) wlion they are bnt.
and February, IsrjG;
uring all the summer,

io is freshest, strong
;ho midtUe of August
Is, with heavy squalls,

ry violent to the South

of 2 or 3 miles an
ugust, that is, dunng

1 the cim-ents, mention
60 or 70 leagues in

leridianof HS'^orU'fi"

of gales are i;(;.a ; .in
a, and even of the son?;
Ay (if ever) extend to
ihe very oldest inhabit-
lud, 80 tearing up Hw
it an awful famine en-
ale that this was a cy-
produced similar results
ipi, and that, too, in the
lis have been the very

udometric figures, the
r of the days exhibit the
seessive. Situated just
tier the northern edge of
as betAveeu the two trade
9 island is constantly ex-
[e winds reach the island,
tiles of ocean, and have
us they impinge on the
2,858 feet in height, the
sland is but little moro
em and water the lee no

the BUnimor, wliile tht

KU8AIE ISLAND. y.ji,

trades liavo receded northwards, we are, cvor and anon, sliaded by the equit-
torial cloiuls, which pour their contents most bounteously ; yet w.^ are con-
stantly so near the northern boundary of this zone, tliat we do not (-xperienco
Its severer, its protracted and unjdeasant pouring rains of weeks and montlis.
The humidity is consequently more equably distributed tlirougli the year
than in most tropical regions ; yet wo speak of the summer us the season
most rainy, if not as the "rainy season." It nmst be remarked, however,
that the year, 1856, during which the trades wore very faint through all
their usual montlis, and were quite intrusive tlirougli all tlie montlis durin;--
which they usually absent themselves, was the most dry remembered by the
oldest inhabitants.

Of the electric phenomena, I can only report that thimder is rare and liglit-
ning still rarer. Tlainder was heard only twenty-eight days in tliroe yeaj-s,
and lightning seen only eight days. So very seldom does liglitning prov.'
destructive, that tlie natives have never suspected its agency, but attributtHl
its results to a direct visitation from their Ani or Spirits, tlie only gods they
reverence.

The orthographj here adopted is that given by Dr. Gulick, as based upon
the system of Lepius, established by his mission. As may be well un-
derstood, there is much confusion in the early names, each voyager spelling
the difficiUt native pronunciation in his own national method.

The description of the archipelago begins with the easternmost, and pro-
ceeds in a westerly direction.

KUSAIE (Ualan), or Strong Mand.—Tlus is the easternmost, and one of
the lofty basaltic peaks of the Caroline Islands ; it was discovered, iu 180-1,
by Captain Crozer, commanding an American ship, who gave it the name
Strong, after the governor of Massachusetts. Captain Duperroy sought for
and foimd it in June, 1824, proving that Captain Crozer's position was very
exact. He passed ten days here, and made a minute survey of it, "Tlie
Island of Oualan," says Captain Duperrey, "may at .^omo future time be-
. omo of great importance. Lying in the track of vessels going from Aus-
;..ma to China, it offers at the same time good ports for careenage, abund-
"J:- 0^ water, and refreshments of different sorts."* The i.sland was also
viv d by Captain D'UrviUe and by Captain Liitke, the latter giving tlie
f iiowii'g account of it :— Ualan is 24 miles in circumference. It is of vol-
cav" .rmation. A break between two masses of mountains, which extend
aer )3s the island from West to East, divides it into two unequal parts, the
acathern portion being more than double the extent of the northern.' On
'uis northern portion is Mount Bmche, so named by Duperrey, which is 1,914

• Voyage Ue k Coquille; et Olbervations sur m,. a.; Ouulun ou Htio.ig, par ftf, 1.h,«„.
iiit'dfcm, i-c ; .Fournal de Voyages Mai, 182J. '

'6 ii-2.

~""^f*,.

740 THE CAROLINE ARCHIPEIAGO.

foet according to Duperrey, or 2,160 feet according to Liitke, above the sea
level. From itR rounded summit it falls gradually on all sides. On tli.<
southern portion, Mount Vrozer, 2,152 foet above the sea, was named aftt-v
the discoverer of the island. Its crest extends from N.W. to 8.E. ; the Noi-th
flank is very steep and rugged at its summit. In general this portion of the
island has many peaks, both isolated and coupled in the form of asses' oars.
One of these peaks, more remarkable for its regularly conical summit, and
by its position in front of CoquiUe harbour, was named the Mertens' Monu-
went by Liitke, from his lamented naturalist.

The northern part of the island is surrounded by a coral roof, which,
opening before the break between the mountains, forms a fort on each side
of the island ; that to the West is what Liitke used ; that to the East is
what the islanders caU Ninmolchon, and Captain Duperrey Leli* from the
name of the small island found in it. The southern part is sui-rounded by
a chain of coral islets, connected by reefs, and forming on the side towards
the island ^> allow lagoon, through which this part of the island may be
traversed, i in is broken towards the southern part of the island,

forming a sinaL , v, named by the French Pert Lottin.

The shore, sheltered by the reef from the violence of the waves, is sur-
rounded by a broad belt of mangroves and other shrubs, forming a thick
waU of verdure, which at first pleases by its singularity, but the monotony of
which soon fatigues the sight. This belt also, hiding the real shore, renders
it difficult to determine the exact limits of the island, and also by its nature
renders it constantly liable to change.

In general the whole island, from the sea to the mountain tops, with the
exception of the highest and most peaked summits of Mount Crozer, is
covered with a thick and almost impassable forest. In the neighbourhood
of the houses, this wood consists of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, bananas, and
other fruit trees. The break or valley betv.een the two ports is the only
part, by which you can pass from one side to the other. The distance is
only 2i miles, but the road is unpleasant from the marshy pools, especiaUy

after rain.

Eivulets and water-courses are met with at every step. Their number,
and the richness of the vegetation, attest the humidity of the cUmate, un-
usual in these latitudes. It did not, however, appear to be ilnhealthy. The
villages are chiefly placed along the beaches, but are not much seen from
seaward, as they are hidden by the coral islets and mangroves. They are
aU surrounded with stone walls, sepai-ating the properties. The number of
inhabitants in the fifty small villages enumerated by Lutke amounted to 409
men and 301 women. Dr. Gulick gives the same numbers as the total
population.

'The natives do not pronounce it LeU, but Leila."— Zk^Ac.

e, ftbove tlio soti
11 sides. On tli.<
was named aftir
8.E. ; the North
;his portion of tho
irm of asses' oars,
ical summit, and
10 Mertem'' Monit-

;oral roof, which,
I, fort on each side
lat to the East is
ey Zele* from the
is sui'rounded by
L the side towards
the island may bo
jart of tho island,

tho waves, is sur-
)8, forming a thick
lit the monotony of
real shore, renders
. also by its nature

tain tops, with the
' Mount Crozor, is
the neighbourhood
nut, bananas, and
ports is the only
r. The distance is
ly pools, especially

p. Their number,
of the climate, un-
be ilnhealthy. The
ot much seen from
agroves. They are
)s. The number of
£0 amounted to 409
imbers as the total

— Lutlcc.

I'ORT LELE-MACKAW KEEF.

Port Lele, or Fane Bay of the natives, is where the chiefs and tlio major
part of tho popidation roaiJo. It is the most spacious ; but us it is on the
eastern side of the island, and the prevalent winds are from the eastern
quarter, it is not easy to leave it, tlie more so because there is no sounding
in the entrance. This is the harbour usually resorted to by the American
whalers.

It was visited by Captain Hammet in H.M.S. Serpent, in January, 185.>.
The king, who was called King George, but whoso proper name was Keni,
must have commenced to reign in 1837 or 1838, and was found there by
Dr. Gulick. Captain Hammet describes some remains of stone architecture,
also alluded to by D'Urville, which was the subject of much speculation.
But Dr. Gulick ascertained that they were not ancient, but were built for
protection, and in some cases as monuments.

Tho people are saturated with disease, introduced by the whalers, and are
rapidly on the docroaso.

Goquille Harbour, where Duperrey's vessel anchored, i.s on tho western
side of the island, which gives it a great advantage over Port IjoIo. The
sea is hero as calm and tranquil as a mill-pond. Tho anchorage is excel-
lent, and very tenacious, on a bottom of black mud, near to two small islets
lying in the bottom of tho harbour.

Tho Island of Kusaio or Ualan will servo as an excellent place for refresh-
ment, and particularly for tho whalers or vessels proceeding to China bj- tho
eastern route ; a tranquil harbour, a fine climate, an abundance of fresh
water and fruits, are groat advantages, all to be enjoyed here.* An abun-
dance of sea-provisions must not be expected hero ; there is no fear of wiint
for daily consumption.

The position of the N.E. islet in CoquiUo Hai-bour is lat. 5° 21' 20 ', long.
163° r 0" E. Captain Liitke makes the centre of the island in lat. 5° 19' N.,
long. 163° 6' E.

Mackaw Reef. — On October 11, 1856, the ship Indiana, Captain Mackaw,
discovered a reef awash in lat. 3° 20' N., long. 160^^ 18' E. Good observa-
tions are claimed for this position, as tho chronometers were rated 1 1 days
before at Mitre Island. It was about a quarter of a mile in extent N.E.
and 8.W. The lookout at the masthead also saw broken patches of water
to the eastward ; and another patch of breakers was seen from tho fore-
castle to south-westward about 2^ to 3 miles distant from the ship. A cast

* A good supply of yams and fowls can bo obtained from the nativps. Two vohsoIs wcro
rut off some years ago ; but of late the natives have got the name of liuing friendly and
hospitable. Strangers, however, should not allow too many of them on deck ; and have
their boats armed when wooding and watering.— ClyjMm Chci/nc, \M%.

712 CAROLINE ARCnirELAOO.

of the load while passing hotween tho two reofs gave no bottom at 12
fathoms, ship going 8 knots*

PINGELAP, Mungrave, or Mac Aslill Islands. — AcconMng to Arrow-
sTuith's chart, Captain Musgravo, in the ship Sugar-cane, discovered some
small islands, in 1793. They were placed in lat. G^ 12' N., long. 159^ 16' E.
According to Ilorsburgh, Captain MacAskill, of tho ship Lady Barlow, on
her passage from Port Jackson to China, discovered, October 29, 1809, two
islands covered with trees, extending about 3 leagues S.E. and N.W. By
good observations the centre was found to bo in lat. G° 12' N., long. 160° 53'
East. Admiral Krusenstorn applied the name of Mmgrave Islands to the
first discovery ; that of MacAskill was giv. . tho second. Notwithstanding
the difTorenco of longitude (perhaps owing to the effect of currents), it cannot
be doubted that they are tho same. Captain Duperroy places the southern
one in lat. 6° 13', long. 160° 47'; tho northern in lat. 6° 12' 50", long. 160^
47' 20". Although they are placed on tho charts imder the name of
l^facAskill, if it should be proved that there is but one, that of Musgrave has
tho claim of priority.

Tho two islands are called Takay and Piwjelap (Pelelep of Duperrey), and
together are not more than 2^ miles in extent. They are covered with cocoa-
nut trees, are of coral formation, and connected by coral reefs, foi-ming a
lagoon inside, with a good ship passage through tho roof on the AVest 8id(;
leading into it. The group is about 15 miles in circumference, and is inlia-
bited by 300 people, a Hght-complexioned race, who must not be trusted ;
they live chiefly on fish and cocoa-nuts. The reefs produce biche-de-mar,
but not in any quantity.

MOKIL, Duperrey or Wellington Isles, a group of three coral islands,
very close to each other, were discovered in La Coquille, June 18, 1824, and
named after h-r commander. The three islands are named ^oura, Ongai,
and Mougoul. Tho N.E. point of Aoura is in lat. 6° 41' 45'" N., long. 159^
50' E. They occuiiy an extent of less than 10 miles (Capt. Cheyne says 3
miles), nearly North and South.

Captain Cheyne says they are called the Wellington Isles. They are
covered with cocoa-nut trees, and are connected by coral reefs, forming a
lagoon, with a passage on the N.W. side, leading to tho lagoon. The reefs
produce biche-de-mar, and a good supply of cocoa-nuts may be obtained for

trifles.

Captain Hammet, H.M.S. Serpent, found, in Jan. 1853, that an American,
named Lucion Huntington, was living on one of the islands, and that the na-

• Atlantic Island, lat. 1° 10' N., long. 164° 67' E., has been only reported once, in 1827.
Its existence and position require confirmation.
A ifff, from whaler report in lat. T io N., long. 153' 50' E., requires confirmation.

no bottom at 12

irding to Arrow -
', discovered soiiio
, long. 169'' 15' E.
p Lady Barlow, on
)l}er 29, 1809, two
,E. and N.W. By
■ N., long. 160° 53'
rave Islands to the
Notwithstanding
currents), it cannot
places the southern
12' 50", long. 160^
nder the name t)f
at of Musgrave has

I of Duperrey), and
covered with cocoa-
■al reefs, foiming a
>f on the AVest sid(!
erence, and is inlia-
iiist not be trusted ;
)duce biche-de-mar,

three coral islands,
Jime 18, 1824, and
lamed Aoura, On,gai,
: 45" N., long. 159^
Japt. Cheyno says 3

in Isles. They are

ral reefs, forming a

lagoon. The reefs

may bo obtained for

3, that an American,
nds, and that the na-

y reported once, in 1827.
quires confirmation.

TIIK PONAPI ISLANDS.

I.i

tivos (now about 80 in number) were quiet and inoflensive, and (pnto under
his control. Tie lind a flagstaff on whidi he lioisted a flag fo attract pa.^Asing
ships. Pigs, fowls, turtle, and taro wore procured from him. Tl-.o only
water was river water, and the only wood is the cocoa-nut tree.

PONAPI, Ascension, or the Smiavine Islands.— T\nn group, consisting of
three separato groups, one of which contains the largest and highest island
of the Carolines, it is very singular should be (iii(> of the latest discovered.
It was first annoimced by Captain Liitko, who saw it Jan. 2, 1828, Iti the
Eussian corvette Siniavine, and was named after tluj ofllccr whoso naine the
vessel bore. I3ut it is more than probable that it had boon visited before
this.*

The Soniavine Islands lie between lat. 6° 43' and 7° 6' N., long. 158' and
irj8.J° E. In the principal island the word Ponapi, Jionabi, Bornahi, Powjni-
pHe,\ or PainipHe, was constantly pronounced by the natives, and may be
undoubtedly recognized as the Faloupet of I'oro Cantova; Pouloupa, of which
the Ougai islanders spoke to Capt. Duperrey ; and Fanopc, mentioned by
the natives of Kadu to Kotzebue. By the name Ponapi, or by that of Fa''<i-
noupei, it is known throughout all the western groups of the Carolines.

It is surrounded by a coral reef, 18i miles from North to South, 17 miles
from East to West, and about GO miles in circumference. The largo island

• Captain Cheyne says : " Near IHetnlanien llarLour arc some interesting ruins, which
are, however, involved in obscurity ; the oMost inhabitants btinR ignorant of thoir origin,
and having no tradition bearing any reference to their history. That a fortified town onco
stood upon this spot, and not built by savages, cannot bo doubted ; the style of the ruins
giving strong proofs of civilization. Some of the stones measure 8 to 10 feet in length, are
squared on six sides, and have evidently been br-jught thither from some civilized country,
there being no stones on the island similar to Uiem. Streets are formed in several places,
and the whole town app(>ur8 to have been a succession of fortified houses. Sovorid artificial
caves were also discov(ii-ed within tho fortifications.

" Tliis town was, doubtless, at ono time, the stronghold of pirates, and as tho natives can
give no account of it, it seems probable that it was built by .Spanish bucaniers, some two or
thrco centuries ago. This supposition is confirmed by tho fact that, about three or four
years ago, a small brass cannon was found on one of tho mountains, and taken away by
11. M.S. Zarne. Several clear places arc also to be seen a littlo inland, at different parts of
the island, some of which aro many acres in extent, clear of timber, and perfectly level,
rpon ono of these plains, caUed K-par, near Kiti (Roan Kiddi) Harbour (and which I
have frequently visited), is a largo mound, about 20 fee . wiae, 8 feet high, and a quarter
of a mile in length. This must evidently have been thrown up for defence, or as a burial-
place for tho dead, after some great battle.

" SimUar ruins aro to bo found at Strong Island, of which the natives can give no

account."

t " The first syllable of this word cannot bo exactly rend.red , it has, in the lip.s of tho
natives, a strange and tavagc sound, extremely difticult to pronounce, and didHgreeablo to
the car."— Xk<X«.

.4 1

■\rmyi»"^'

L'.',r.g ' '

CAROLINE ARCHII'ELAGO.

of Toiiapi or Ascension, wliieli gives its name to the group, occupies tho
centre, and is 12 miles in diameter from North to Soutli, and Mi miles from
East to West, occupying nearly tho whole of the area enclosed by tho
fringing coral reef. Besides the chief island, a dozen basaltic islets and
rocks surround tho island, whilo on tho coral reef are from fifteen to twenty
coral islands, resembling tho ordinary atolls.

Its highest point. Mount Monte- Santo, so named in memory of tho navid
victory gained over the Turks by Admiral Seniavine, is 2,858 feet (English)
above the level of the sea.

On its N.W. portion is a spot that is entirely flat, from whic^h the land
rapidly falls towards the N.W. point of the island, Cape Zavalichine, named
from Liitko's ofRcor. This is remarkable for a rock about 1,000 ft. in height,
nearly poriiendicular, and which seems to be of basalt. In other directions
the land slopes gradually from the summit to the shore. On the South side
is an isolated and very distinct mass of basalt, which, seen from East to West,
exactly resembles a lighthouse or a sentry box.

From what could be judged of the principal geological formation of tho
island by what was seen, it is, like all the other high islands of this sea, of
basalt. It is, like those surrounded by a coral reef, on which some islands,
of different sizes, also of coral, are dispersed ; but in Unwelcome Port, and a
little fur^^ior to the East, there are, even close to the shore, some higli
islands. orae of these are thickly wooded and inhabited. The island is
entirely covered with verdure ; but it seems less thickly so than Ualan. To
leeward, that is, on tho Sox h and West sides, mangroves and other shrubs
grow in the water, forming an impenetrable border.

There are but very few habitations seen near the sea-shore ; the greater
part are hidden by the trees, but the smoke rising in numerous points, and
the large chimps of cocoa-nut trees, attest the numerous population. The
number of people is estimated at 5,000.

The whole island is thickly wooded, and produces many varieties of good
timber. The shores are fronted with mangrove trees, growii^g in the salt
water, which form an impenetrable barrier to boats landing, except in the
rivers, and other small canals or channels, formed amongst them by nature.
Many of these are so narrow as scarcely to admit of oars being used ; they
answer every purpose however, as all the houses situated near the shore have
generally one of these channels leading to them.

The Rev. Dr. L. H. Gulick has given an interesting paper on the climate
and productions of Ponapi in the American Journal of Science. In a former
page we have made some extracts from this as regards the climate. The
following is a description of the group.

The height of what Liitke named Monte Santo (on the French chart Tolo-
colme), in about lat. 6° 53' N., is 2,861 feet. Several other points approach
it in elevation. A somewhat continuous range of hills extends from Uu, ot

•oup, occupies tlio
,n(l Mi milcH from
I omlosod by th«>
basaltic isleta ami
u fifteen to twenty

mory of the naval
,858 feet (English)

m which the land

Zavalichine, named

1,000 ft. in height,

In other directions

On the South side

from East to West,

il formation of the
ands of this sea, of
rhich some islands,
relcome Port, and a
shore, some higli
ited. The island is
so than Ualan. To
es and other shrubs

-shore ; the greater
imerous points, and
IS population. The

iny varieties of good
growiitg in the salt
iding, except in the
gst them by nature,
rs being used ; they
I near the shore have

paper on the climate
tcience. In a former
Is the climate. The

le French chart Tolo-
ther points approach
extends from Uu, of

SEXIAVTNE ISLANDS. 74«

the Waiicka district, westward to I'aloka, of the Jokoits district. Tho ter-
minations of the range are somewhat gradual slopes. The general lino tif
tho range is that of a curve, convex southward. Tho eastern third, or per-
haps half, is narrow and almost equally precipitous on the northeni and
southern aspects, presenting in many places, as in Uu, porpondii ular faces
of rock of great height, that show strong columnar tendencies. The middle
third of tho range slopes very gradually on the southern aspect, whore the
mountains maintain a comparatively regular descent from their summits to
tho ocean shore, a distance of 5 or 6 miles. Several long narrow valleys
run up these slopes, along the sides, and at tho heads of which are many
faces of columnar rock, over which leap the most romantic cascades. Again,
tho western portion of the range is narrow and precipitous.

A numboi or detached hills and short ranges still further diversify th«
scene, more particularly the following. Midway between tho Metalanien
Harbour and Aru Point, there rises a very high hill, of perhaps 1,000 feet,
which sends westward a low prolongation that connects it with the main
central range. Again, on the North of the island, in tho Nut district, there
rises a similar mountain, but barely connected with oven the mainland. At
this place the most perfect basaltic colunns are found. The central ridge of
Nut is but a prismatic mass, and about its base lie scattered columns of great
length, also detached piles of agglutinated columns are found. This must
have been, I think, at least one of the spots whence the materials for the
Metalanien " Kuins" were taken.

By the course of the main range and the positioris of tho subsidiary hills,
two broad and long valleys are formed. One of them may be called tho
Metalanien, the other the Nut valley. Each of them may be 4 to 5 miles in
width, and 6 to 8 miles in length.

There are several solitary projections of rock in the Matalanien and Kiti
district. One, much resembling a sugar-loaf in shape, in the Metalanien
valley at the head of the harbour of the same name, is called Takain. Its
height may be 400 feet, and its circumference at the base three-quarters of
a mile. Its eastern aspects are perpendicular, its western not so steep but
that by adhering with hands and feet it may be ascended. Adherent to the
base of the main rock, yet separated from it above, is a much smaller rock.
Within a quarter of a mile of Takain rises a dome-shaped hill, of almost the
same elevation, but not so precipitous. At the head of the Panian Harbour
a needle-shaped rock elevates itself from the top of a slight ridge. It may
be 10 or 12 rods at the base, and perhaps 150 feet high above the top of the
ridge. On Liitke's chart it bears the name of Mount Guerite ; on the French
chart Roic. In the West end of the island is another needle rock, much like
Mount Guerite.

A number of very active streams pour through the valleys on the southern
side of the island. The largest is probably that emptying at the base of

^1 ■

lit

'"^St^jaffissMSS^ir

,,^, CAROLINE ARCnirKLAOO.

'V 1, -n On the North of tl>e central rango thoro aro no streams. «avo ono
Takam On ^^o Nor^' streams, during the course of ages,

or two d-nmg the Nu vaUoy. ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^.^^ ^^^ ^^^^^

nuist have otfected great th.ng»^ 1 q ^^ ^^ .^^^ ^^^^^ ^j^,^

the world are more ^ '^^ * ^r ^^^^^^^^^^ by the black and rod

almostevory heavy show .^ ^^^^^^^^.^^ ^^^ ,^p„,,,.,

earths l\^'^''^\'^^'^''^^^^ pi,,es immense Hats, over which the tide
along the shores, forming in «^«'"y I"" . , , f ^^6 Meta-

tZ "t JT.W a/rJlh or^.H, Nut ,a«o, U bu. one or .ho a>.u..I
i„U>re....* "-^r^ X »«"« «» *. main land -y a„ oxto„.iv,
.ia.b.mgro.l.al>.a>,uoaa.la ''» _ ™^ j„ ,,^. ,„, ,„„,HliuBly

„t coaiso conglomerato .„i,„atic to* that along

Tho largor Ma„t « b„. ta c » »' -^JS J ^„j ,, ;„ „.,

H« '■^»'- '»XrtSutt a Tpo'tion of tho .an>o, ot.o» o.ovation.

placo 300 foot h gh. »M ■»^;' _ 'parity to tho hoight of porhap.
Wa;,ri«sw,thmuohotthoa,ualpo^ ^ .__ ^^^ ^^^ ^

300 foot. Tho mas. of .t» hiU .. of a «^ ' „ ,„^.

red oarth u fot^d f^^-^^:zf:::'^r^'^:s::^s^^,. ^^^.m

roNAPI.

7-17

troams, save one
,e course of ages,
odios of water in
ivhich occur with
he blaik and red
[•08 are dopositod
or which the tide
, from the Mota-
' any consideraldo
, and thesK S.\V.
ipon by tho N.E.
3ne of tho alluvial

' Tonapi are vory
named hy L\itko),
lid l)y an oxten«ive
retipitously on its
liar triiinglo, ea.ii
n border, runnin(j;
fight, oxceodingly
vatod from 150 to
am shores presents
)0 seen in most of

Lwigttr and PoUik
eight, with a talus
go being, perhaps,
n one place half a

points 300 foot in

I water's edge. The
in many places faces
;onsiderable hillocks

atic rock that along
D, and may be in one
ime, of less elevation,
the height of perhaps
id in certain spots a
itxth canoes ; a sub-
ain island. Mutokaloj
m the margins of this
r to cellular lava. Tn-
lescendb quite steeply

tit tho water on nearly every wide. Near it, to (he Hitiith, nro several very
small and low basaltic ish.'ts.

It need scarcely bo remarked that tho general siirface of all tho basaltic
members of tho IVmapi group is very rugged. Eoeks and sttmes are scat-
tered over abnost the entire surface in tho greatest profusion ; and but few
phiins, even of a few acres in extent, are to bo anywhere seen. The lee-
ward slopes in tho Kili district present a few spots that may be tenned level.
IJusaltie specimens nmy bo found on almost every scjuaro rod of tho island,
liut on certain spf>t8 tliey seem to bo adventitious rather than native. In such
spots tho earth is a reddish clay, under which will usually bo found what
seems to bo a decomposed rock with frecpiont setims of red earth. Beneath
tlio whole wo strike upon tlie substratiun of babalt, in compact masses.

SuiTounding tho whole body of basaltic elevations is a beautiful coral reef,
distant from the coast of the main island tho average distance of perhaps 2
miles. There are no loss than seven considerable intervals in the continuity of
this reef, forming as many harbours, several of which are really excellent. Between
tho roof and tho shore of tho island are all tlio usual coral patches that give
such wondrous variety to tropical waters. Tho height of these patclies
varies greatly. A very considerable number of them nro from an inch or
two to a foot or more above tho ebb tides at syzygios. On tho trntor reef are
a number of islota in every respect similar to those on tho purely coralline
groups. They are fotmd from tho mouth of tho Metalanion harbour, along
the southern line, as far as I'oiut Kittlitz, but not on tho North of Ponapi.
These islets have a nearly uniform elevation of about 2 ft. above high water
mark. I gather from my own observations, and from the reports of the
pilots, that soundings are found outside of tho roof, nearly if not quite
round tho island, at distances varying from a quarter to half a mile from
tho reef.

Of its harbours Captain Liitke has given us no account, as before stated,
lie sent Lieutenant Zavalichino, January 3, 1828, to examine one, at the
South end of the island, in an opening of tho reef, and leading towards what
is marked on his charts as Mounts Tenedos (Mutok) and La Guirite (the
sentry box), before alluded to. This entrance is in lat. 6° 45' N., and long.
158° 24' E.

Kiti, or Rono Kiti Harbour. — Captain Cheyne first described this har-
bour in 1848. It is tho one most resorted to by tho American whalers.

A vessel bound to this harbour from tho eastward, from December till
April, should endeavour to get into the latitude of tho island as soon as pos-
sible, after passing the Duperrey Isles, and continue running to the west-
ward on the same parallel of latitude, until the island is sighted, ' ' ilnng
westerly currents prevail at times during these months, with much hazy
weather; and a stranger would be liable to get set past the island, if a proper
allowance were not made for the ( urrent. xVfter making the land, con-

«;^SSaKai82SSSRtS!aK=''^

!'3j!,i8jjari3».a----

748

CAROLINE ARCIIirKl.A(}0.

tiiiitn stocrinp; to t\w woKtwtinl, iinfil tlm iwi' is visililo (rum the di-ck ;
nt whirh tiiim, il" tho woiithor bo modyruto, it in proBumod ii pilot will bo
nlnnpside.

Tho harbour foriun ii hihir bamn, wlioroa sliip ran Ho as safo as in a dock.
Tho ontranco, howovor, in vory narrow an<l intricato ; tho narrowH for al)oiit
200 yards, boing only 40 fathonm widn. Tho oiitt^r ontranco is bctwoen tho
two small woody islands nani.xl Nalap, and Namatir, a sandy islot with
bushoB on it, situated on tho roof, to tho eastward of tho former. Tlio chan-
nel is 4 cables wide, between Shaulak or Little Nalap and tho sandy islet.
The larRost, Nalap Island, is 2.} cables iu length North and Houth, and tho
inner one two-ti irds of a cable in extent. Tho Handy Islet, on tho star-
board liand going in, is about tlireo-quartors of a cable in length. The dis-
tor^vd from the entrance to tL'< narrows is nearly a milo North and Houtli
(true) mid-channel. In entering, tho elbow of tlio barrier reef to tho
soutliward of tho sandy islot, should have a berth of Ii cables, as a coral
spit extends from it s^me distance. In tho middle of tho outer bight or
harbour, tho depth is 45 tuthoms, decioasmg gradually towards tho narrows,
whero it lungos from 10 to 13 fatlioms. A detached sunken rock, with only
4 ft. o:i it, lies u tho outer entrmeo of tho aarrows. This must bo left on
the port hand going in. Tho course through the narrows is N.W. i W.
(true). When inside, tho water deepens to 20 and 23 fathoms, and then
gradually shoals to the anchorage at tho head of tlie basin. The harbour
or basin is 7 cables in length, N. by E. and H. by W. (true) ; and between
tlio narrowest part of the reefs which fonn it, 1 J (tables in width. Tho bch
anchorage is at its head, in 7 or 8 fathoms, whore tho jiort has a diametei
2 cables each way, without going under 5 fathoms. The reefs wl
foi-m this harbour, dry at low water, spring tides on each side, and at the
head of tho basin.

Kiti or Roan Kiddi River is about a quarter of a milo from the anchorage,
from whence a plentiful supply of good fresh water can always be procured,
and an abundance of firewood can be easily obtained on tho low land, at tho
mouth of the river. Ii is high water at this place on full and change of tho
moon at 4'' ; riso and fall, 5^ ft. A stranger before attempting to enter this
harbour wiU require to send a boat in, and place buoys on the rocks and E.
side of the channel.

By having a careful officer at the mast-head, when running in, all dan-
gers can bo seen and avoided in a clear day. The best time to enter this
harbour Is on the first of the flood ; as, should a vessel unfortunately get
on shore, through a sudden shift of wind, while passing the narrows, she
will stand a much better chance of getting off without injury than at any

other time.
The oiisuing remarks are from the remark-book of H.M.8. Lame, 1839 :
" After passing an outer bight or bay, formed by tho outer reefs, in which

hOl) HARBOUK, KTC

740

'(1111 the (li'<k ;
i pilot will i)t(

fo n« in a dock.
rowH for iilxiiit
in Ix'twt'on tlit>
luly inli't witli
or. Tho fhaii-
lio snndy iHlt't.
South, aud tluj
[, on tho Btar-
igth. Tlin (liH-
rth (ind Houtli
or roef to tlio
ilos, as a coral
oiitor bight or
ds tho narrows,
rock, with only
lUst bo loft on
is N.W. i W.
loms, and thon
Tho harbour
I ; and between
Idth. The bet
IS a diamotoi
ho reefs wl
side, and at the

1 tho anchorage,
lys bo procured,
low land, at tho
d change of tho
ng to enter this
10 rocks and E.

[ng in, all dan-
ime to enter thi»
afortunately get
10 narrows, sho
iry than at any

!. Lame, 1839 :
r reefs, in which

flioro is nothing loss tlian Ift futhoms, n N.W. cdurHe leads for tln^ inner
pasMugo, wliiih, for about 200 yardM, is 80 yards wide between a miuken nxk,
with I ft. on it on the port hand, and the lini> of the inner reef very steep-to
(7 fathoms), which should be hugged as (•ioseiy as possil)le. Tlie courHit
through the narrows is N.W. by W. : but a fixed course or nuirks are un-
necessary, as a ship would alwayp pass in aud out as tho Lame did by tho
deep water, as distinguished by the eyo when conned from tho fore-top-
gullant huist-head. The ordinary N.E. trade is a leading wind in, wiih
very smooth water, and when through the narrow, it is requisite, if possible,
to shoot to starboard round the tongue of the reef, clewing all up, and an-
chor in 22 fathoms. Then warp to northward up tho pool to any depth,
from 20 to 7 fathoms, which it is best to do evening or morning when the
wind drops.

"At tho Lame's anchorage we found tho lat. 6" 48' N., and long. 158' 20
East ; variation, i)'" 45' E. ; high water (full and change), G'' ; rise and fall,
4J foot."

This anchorage was surveyed by Lieutenant O. 8. Reynolds imd Mr. TJ.
Edwards (unite), of H.M.8. Lame. It is a perfect pool, with strong day
holding ground. To tho northward a tine stream of fresh water dis-
charges itself, which can only be entered by ])oats an hour before and
after high water, with just sufliciont breadth to ply the oars. Tho best
place fur filling is about lialf a milo up tho stream, near a hut where the na-
tives make netii and repair canoos. Just above tliis sit the clear fresh water
descends in a torrent.

Another port is on tho North side of tho island. Captain Liitko says: —
" Before tho N.W. point of tho island, remarkable for the high basaltic rock,
we saw a largo opening in tho reef, and beyond that an extent of water
which promised a good harbour. 1 dotormiued once more to find a conve-
nient anchorage. Our boats found a passage 2} cables length in width, aud
25 fathoms in depth, and beyond that, to all appearance, an extensive and
sale harbour. But hardly had they passed the entrance channel before they
were met by canoes full of natives, who surrounded thom in an instant in a
most tm'bulont manner. Eather than como to extremities with thom, tho
boats returned to the corvette. It is possible that these natives had no hos-
tile intentions, but their conduct was such that the search was given over."
This harbour was called Unwelcome Harbour (Port du Mauyais Accueil) by
Captain Liitke, from his reception by the inhabitants.

Lod Harbour, another small harbour — much used by whalers, on account
of being able to sail in and out with the prevailing N.E. wind — is on the E.
side of the island. Tho entrance is through 3 break in the reef, and the
anchorage between that and the mangroves which front the shore.

There is another harbour at the N.W. part of the island, in front of the
high perpendicular cliff which terminates tho island of Jecoits or Joquoits

-nasBB jf i Ei i ataaM 'iiEis wiitiiBbaw ' M i feg^^

v=vs^:rK:Wr-

t tMf d f ^'

7-,^ CAKOLTNF. ARCHIPELAGO.

to the N W. The entrance i. through an opening in the Lamer, about
w aUes wide, but the water inside is very deep, from 25 to 30 fa-
tLms Captain Moore say« that Jecoits harbour is difficult and unsafe to
attempt and in this he was confirmed by examining it in a boat.

Zlnieu Harbour is on the N.E. of the island. Tl. anchorage
Metalanien harbour is perfectly safe, and sheltered from all winds. Ih.
II ur has a wide entrance on the North side of the Island of A.., and the
vridden danger to be avoided when running in is ^ -^en -^^^^^^^^^^
.Tisiance within the entrance, and which Ues nearly m mid-channel. The sea
mris bxeaks on it; but it can always be avoided by keeping the star-
Zrl de of the channel close aboard. The barrier reef at this place ex
ends a long distance from the main land, andbetween which are many eoi.
flats with deep-water channels amongst them in some places. The hai4>our
tform d by tL main land, and is similar in shape to a horse-shoe and the
chari through the reefs which leads to it runs nearly in a direct hue from
the entrance in the barrier reef to the heads of the harbour.

T^s harbour may be easily known to vessels standing in from sea by a
.ema Lble peaked hill, resembling a spire or sugar-loaf which is situated
olthe North shore within the harbour. The channel leading o this harbour
hos in a S.W. and N.E. direction. An abundant supply of firewood and
excellent fresh water can always be obtained at this place

fit ng N.E. winds prevail from December to AprU. with much hazy
weather and frequent aquaUs. attended with rain. During these months
It fg westerly currents are very frequently experienced From Maroh to
August the winds are generally light and variable, but chiefly from the east-
ward, with much fine weather.

In September, October, and November, strong westerly winds, with severe
squalls and rain, may be expected ; and strong easterly currents are frequently
flnd during these months. On the whole, the chmate must be considered
veiT moist, as scarcely a day passes without rain. especiaUy in the winter
months These continual showers produce rapid vegetation, and keep up a
constant run of fresh water from the mountains in the chasms and rivulets

between the hills. ^ .

The officers of H.M.S. Lwrne make the foUowmg observations on this
harbour —It is highly advisable that no square-rigged vessels of any mag-
nitude should enter this harbour. The passage is narrow, wirh two rocks
in it at different angles, and as it fronts directly to the N.E.. from whence the
trade-wind is perpetually blowing, a heavy swell, rolls m incessantly, and
their being no soundings without the reef, it is dangerous m beatmg out in
case of the wind dropping, and boats are useless for towmg on account ot the
heavy sv -^U. It was entirely owing to these circumstances that the /«/<•««,
of London (whaler), was wrecked in her attempt to beat out in July. 18:?o,
after having been three months wiud-bound inside.

1 the Lamer, about
from 25 to 30 fa-
ficult and unsafe to
n a boat.

Tlie anchorage at
,m all -winds. This
sland oiN'aa, and the
i sunken rcok, sonui
lid-channel. The sea
by keeiying the star-
reef at this place ex-
•which are many coral
places. The harbour
a horsB-shoe, and the
' in a direct line from
t)our.

ng in from sea, by a
jaf, which is situated
loading to this harbour
ipply of firewood and
ace.

pril, with much hazy
During these months
,ced. From March to
it chiefly from the east-
erly winds, with severe
currents are frequently
ate must be considered
specially in the winter
jetation, and keep up a
he chasms and rivulets

ig observations on this
ged vessels of any mag-
larrow, with two rocks
6 N.E., from whence the
oils in incessantly, and
jerous in boating out in
towing on account of the
stances that the Falcon,
beat out in July, 1886,

THE ANT OR ANDEMA GROUP.

751

The Ant or Andema Group is the second cluster attached to the Ponapi
or Seuiavine Islands. They lie to the S.W. of Ponapi, and their nearest
points are about 7 miles distant from each other. This is the same group
that was said to be discovered by Captain Fraser, of the ship Planter, in
1832, and named by him yfllliam the Fourth Group, and in some charts,
Fraser hlands. But the discovery in tho Smiarine being prior to this, of
course the credit is due to Captain Liitko. When first approaching it, Jan.
■'?, 1828, he was nearly being drifted on to tliera by a calm which overtook
him ; this was caused by the high land of Ponapi interrupting tho trade-
wind, but did not prevent tho heavy swell from rolling onwards. This in-
cident may serve as a caution. He says that the group is composed of a
dozen coral islands of different sizes, covered with a thick verdure. There
was no appearance of habitation, but they were visited at times, for they saw
in one part a pile of stones raised on a large blackish rock. Tho reef is of
a triangular form, and is about 8 miles long on each side, the islands occu-
pying that facing the S.E. The South extreme is in lat. 6'^ 43' 10" N., long.
158° 5' 30" E.

Captain Cheyue, of the Naiad, calls them Ant Islands, and says they ft)rm
a group of four largo, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and bread-
fruit trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, forming a lagoon inside, with a
passage leading in to it, between the two large islands on the East side of the
group.

These islands belong to the chiefs near Kiti harbour. They have no per-
manent inhabitants, but are resorted to from May till September, for tho
hawks-bill turtle fishery. They are also visited at other times for supplies
of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit.

The PaJtin or Peguenema Group is tho third and westernmost of the
Seniavine Islands. It is composed of five small islands lying in a N.W. and
R3.E. direction, and extending about 5 miles in length. The S.E. island is
named KateUna, and its East point is in lat. 7° 2' N.. long. loS" 0' 30" E.
The next lies 1 J miles to the northward of it, and is called Ta ; the next is
Tagaik, lat. 7° 4' 4" N., long. 157° 58'. Kapenoar ov Kapemtare is the western-
most. Its West point is in lat. 7° 4' 40", long. 157° 56' 30" E. This is tho
largest island. In the Nautical magazine they are called Pakecn, and tho
following is the account of the group : —

It is composed of five small islands surrounded by a coral reef, forming a
lagoon inside, into which there is no passage through the reef. Tho western -
most island is inhabited by a Ponapi chief, his famii/ and servants, in all
about thirty souls ; and this chief claims sovereignty over the whole of this
group. The islands aro very low, of coral formatioi\, and produce abundance
of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and the lagoon plenty of excellent fish to sup-
ply the wants of the inhabitants, about 50 in number. The group is about

■M

-■sr-i^s^rKKasasas?

Fyas^S'^gsBy^^'^?:'**?^'^^'''' ^ ^ '^ ^

--o CAROLINE AROnirELAGO.

riiles in, length from East to West, and about 3 miles in breadth fromNovth

'' S ph.eo is celebrated for its canoe sails, which are -nu^-^^^^^^^^^^^^
the leaves of the pandanus tree, and which are eagerly sought aftei b>e
Itivcs of ronapi Poultxy are also plentiful in this group. In fine weathei
rrtives frequently visit Ponapi in their canoes, for the purpose of obtam-

^"£s;^r;rt:r":i"^^^ of ..ht .r.

i.!rtl^S eLme of which is in lat^ . .T 30. longM.7^ 3. East-
They weve discovered in 1773 by the Bpanxsh navigator, Don Fehpe Tompso
the called them Zos Valientes. He made a plan of them, which was found
:' Cahi L.t.e to be tolerably accurate, but 1° 4' too far East They were
1.1 179.. by Captain Musgrave, in the ^^^^^r.cane,.l.oc^^^^^^^^^
Sn-m IshmU ; and in the year following they were passed by ih^ Braamia
: rial the R.:en Islands. Captain Don Joachim ^^^^a -w them a^^^^
determined their position in 1802. They were surveyed, m 1828, by Captam

1 jiitke whose account follows : — , . „„ -i •

The Ngatik or iN>r»/. group is of a triangular form, and xs 22 mdes xn

.ircumfexence. We counted eight islands, and not seven as xs marked on
iCln's plan. Wo found a continuous reef surrounding the whole of
the group witl^out having the least passage in.o the lagoon. It would be
curiL to know if Tompson was mistaken in marking an opening on the S^
•d by which the natives passed in their canoes, or whether this opening has
Lome closed in the course of fifty-five ye.u-s by the zoophy^^e architect. On
^Z^.. islands a large «mantitv of cocoa-nut trees grow. The South side of
t.^^^:^:::^^ i« .ul^o covered with a forest of these trees^ Not^
li hstanding this, we saw no trace,, of inhabitants except on the small island
It west! angle. Tompson saw people on the -^^/^^f J^t T^fs
iu the lagoon. Wo were surprised at the entire absence of the latter. This
"alore strange, as a large .uaxitily of bread-fruxt trees, from which they
Take thoir canoes, were seen; and besides this, a large quantity of drift-
wood it; on the sLre. The population must be very .light It was sup-
pled that the thirty men Been together on the westernmost island formed
the entire population.

STIKUOR Nougouore^ or Monteverde Mands.-ThiH group, which lies
considerably to the Soi^th of the general Mno of the CaroHne Avclxipelago, was
rcovered by Don Juan Bapt, Monteverde. commanding the Spamsh frigate
La Pala The first or native name i. that applied to them by Cuptam Liitke,

Xt werTseTn'b;^ C:;^^^^ E. L. Hunter. December H.th. IMO. He
„,ade the centre in lat. 3° 52' N., long. 164° 66' E. They form a group of
small, low, coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut and other trees, and con-

__..__— .,-w^w.w»«nw»«»«wttW*»"

eadtli froraNortli

inufactured from
uglit after by the
I, In fine weather
mrpose of obtain-

p of eiyht cornl
ig. 157" 32' East.
n Felipe Tompson
which was found
r East. They were
10 called them the
by the Britannia,
ta saw them, and
il828, by Captain

,nd is 22 miles in
as is marked on
ding the whole of
lon. It would be
opening on the S.
or this opening has
[lyte architects. On
The South side of
these trees. Not-
on the small island
rn islet, and canoes
of the latter. This
s, from which they
9 quantity of drift-
ght. It was sup-
cuost island formed

group, which lies
ne Aroliipelago, was
the Spanish frigate
u by Cuptain Liitke,

or 10th, 1<S40. He
»y form a group of
hot trees, aud eon-

GREENWICH ISLAND, ETC. 75.3

nected by a reef, forming a lagoon inside. The whole group is only about
12 or 14 miles in circumference. They are well inhabited, by a fine, hand-
some race, who are above the mean stature, and resemble the natives of th»
Navigator Islands in appearance. Their canoes are neat, and capable of
carrying 12 men.

GREENWICH or Constantin Island.— This isolated spot was seen in
1825, and then had the first name applied to it. It was again reported in
the Nautical Magazine, 1852, page 226, and was considered as doubtful.
It was then seen on December 20th, 1853, by the late Captain Tardy de
Montravel, of the French Marine, who has done great services to hydrogra-
pbical science, when proceeding in the French ship Condantin, to New
Caledonia. He saw a group of low islets, to which he gave the name of his
ship. The group is composed of a dozen low islets covered with stunted
cocoa-nut trees, whicli would not be visible beyond 10 miles. They are en-
circled by a reel which from the mast-head appeared to enclose a lagoon. The
urgency of the voyage prevented any close examination, or its being ascertained
whether there were any inhabitants. The position of the northernmost islet
was determined astronomically to be in lat. 1° 4' N., long. 154" 47' 55' E.

They were again seen by Captain W. Symington, in iho Northfleet, in 18G1.
He says : It is of the usual form of a coral lagoon in its earliest stage, only
one-third of it being above water, and consisting of twenty-six small islets,
a few feet above water, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. Reefs extend in
a W.N.W. direction from the extreme N.W. islet to a distance of 5 miles.
It was not inhabited. It was also seen in the Spanish frigate Herenguela, in
1865, as in T 3' N., 154° 54' 50" E.

From a mean of the positions stated it may be placed in lat 1° 3' N louff
154'= 41' E. '

Decapolis Reef, seen by the vessel of that name, May, 1869, at half a
mile distance, in lat 0^32' N., long, about 152" 51 K. It seemod to be
of small extent, and the sea, although smooth at the time, broke occasion-
ally over it.

ORALUK, San Agustino, or Bordelaise Island and reef, a small, low, coral
island, 2 miles long and about 60 feet high, with a reef projecting from it
to the S.E. for 15 miles, was perhaps discovered, ia 1826, by Captain Saliz,
commanding Le Pirmien of Bordeaux. The reef forms a lagoon inside it,'
and from its S.E. part the island cannot be seen. The island is in about
lat. 7° 39' N., long. 155° 6' E.

Several discoveries have been stated to be made in this immediate neigh-
bourhood. Jane Jsland, by Capt. Johnson, of the ship Guilford, in October
1827, in lat. 7» 33' N., long. 155- 3'. His description, which accords very
nearly with that of Capt, Saliz, is that of a smaU low island, half a mile in
North Pacific. ^ ^

^•■^•-v^'iwiiWffllMftWWMllflBfll'V "■

■ ■ *AVI*^^lV«AW8?S*liT««^W^

_^ CAROLINE AllCHIPELAGO.

Baid in the usual vaguo manner to bo 80 mR g^ ^^^^ ^^

,.no..n' V Thw is verv far to the eastwaru, imu

v«»ed Mith distrart. = _^.,.,.,, .„„,e, demonstrate tWs.
amination. Il.e M1<.»-."S "'''",»»,!/■ a daagerou. root disooverod ly
CaptaiaW. ^"'P^' of tho eh.p X»* Fobrua^. , __^^ ^ ^^^ ^^^
,»i„t i. plaoed ■„ lat r Z^ N W- '^^ ^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^

Wand, but .a>, it » 1 «..■_» E^S.K of Bor ^ ^ _^^_^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^
„„ Norio'. chart, .a l«t^ ^^ 8 „„ ^ i„„p,„„, ,«,

rrpwb;i-«r-:bt;rc:t^^^^^^^^^^

r-->»t 7rbf;'S - XarLrlco^erod aa error ot

Agustino Inland may be placed as doubttul. ^^ .^

'Bor<i.^a,-.. i.s/««rf, therefore, it IS very ^f^^'^^'^^^'x^orXI miles,
covered with bushes and f -^S^;/;::: ^ :^^^^^^^^^^ reef

A M. Edw. du Fernet, master o ^ O;^'^^^^^^^^^^ ,y,^ time they built

i, 1843, and remained on the xslet five m^ntH dur g ^^^^^.^ ^^^^

a-1 craft ^^-t^rrCisi::. ulhabiL. Lt .e cannot
Te :r :T1^— - o^ - -— ^ °^ ^^^ various.announce.

„.ents. till a further examjn^^^^^^^^^^ ^,./._0n January 3rd, 1842.

WiBhaxt Eee^ »" f^'^ ^f ;;/ ,,„„,,/,^ uinto, saw a patch of

Captain J. E- W^sha.. i. tho^ b^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^,^ ^,,,,aing

Wker. dry - !7^/^ ^^H Ida it in lat. 8= 10' N., long. 154= 19'
iu a N.W. and b.L. direction ^ ^^^i^i^^ Costello in the Sardinian

T"%rron\TsM.^ aC^^^^^^ omy the bowsprit and iib-
schooner So>«, ^"^^ kst part It was described as of an elliptical form,
'°"°;' TlXrand C.Cd ^ niiles broad North and South. E.cept
7 mdes ong Ea«t ^^^ ^ ^^^^^ ^he ship lay, it was awash, or some feet

LOSAP— MORTLOCK ISLES.

l&a

(ctremo of the island
g to the E.S.E., as
»olack, of the Bhip
m the S.E. point of

• of that name, was
md in lat. 7^ 21' N.,
1 therefore muat be
urhood lequirea ex-

this.

18 reef discovered by
13, 1830. The N.E.
lid not see the small
nd. Meabuni Island,
t be the same. San

F. Tompson, -which,
;o be the same ; more
, he would havft been
liscovered an error of
duce the discrepancies
ot to be considered as
re identical, still San

the only island. It is
M seen 10 or 12 miles,
pas wrecked on its reef
g which time they built
was pretty certain that
habited, but we cannot
the variou8_announce-

■On January 3rd, 1842,
Minto, saw a patch of
le North part, extending
8° 10' N., long. 154° 19'
Oostello in the Sardinian
ly the bowsprit and jib-
1 as of an elliptical form,
jrth and South. Except
was awash, or some feet
:.at. stated 8° 6' N., long,
rds, in the Siamese ship
ying on it. The position

of the latter was lat. 8' 6' N., long. 154= 20' 30' E. It was again seen by
Captain Webb, in the ship Mildman, in 1858. He saw two wrecks on it, and
places the West end of it in lat. 8" 8' N., long. 154" 29' E.

From an announcement in the San Francisco Herald, a reef, 10 miles
long, lies in lat. T 56' N., long. 154" 20' E. All these announcements
evidently refer to the same reef, and are tolerably accordant. The mean of
the five positions, supposing them to refer to the South end, as they appear
to do, would place it in about lat. 8° 5' N., long. 154° 17' E.

Donkin Reef, seen by the person whose name it bears in J 824, is marked
as an extensive shoal, the South end of which is in lat. 8° 50' N., long. 154"
10' E. It is possible that it may be the same as Wishart Eeef, but as
another announcement, by a whaler, places it nearly in the above latitude,
or 9° 0' N., 55 miles northward of the mean latitude of the former, it must
be considered for the present as a separate danger, of unknown extent and
character, but in about lat. 8° 55' N., long. 154° 5' E.

LOSAP (Louasappe), or i)' Urville Island.— Ihis is a small island discovered
and named by Capl-^in Duperrey, in lat. 7° 3' 40" N., long. 152° 42' 20" E.
In the second volume of Admiral Krusenstern's Memoir (p. 347) it is called
Duperrey Island, but this was before the publication of that commander's
voyage. They are called the Westervelts Islands by the apocryphal Captain
Morrell, who believed them to be a new discovery, February 23, 1830. He
says they seem to be composed of three small low islands, of nearly equal
size, connected by a coral reef. They are well wooded with cocoa-nut and
bread-fruit trees. They were neither of them more than 5 miles in circum-
ference, and had biche-de-mar and pearl-oysters on the reefs. Population
200.*

MORTLOCK ISLES were discovered November 29, 1793, by Capt. James
Mortlock, commanding the ship Young William. Admiral Krusenstern ap-
plied the name of the discoverer to them, while on other charts the name of
his vessel is given. Mortlock only saw their South side, and consequently
gained a very imperfect notion of them. This is obviated by the examina-
tion made by Captain Lutke. He surveyed the group, and they are con-
sidered as separate islands in Dr. Gulick's list, consisting of Lukunor, Sotoan,
and Mai.

Captain Cheyne says that these islands are well inhabited by an able-
bodied race, of a light complexion. Strangers should be very cautious in
holding intercourse with them, as they are not to be trusted, no matter how

• San Bafael Island of Captain Monteverde, 1806, and so named by Duperrey, is
placed in T" 18' N., long. 153' 64' E., or 72 miles to the eastward of Losap or D'Urvillo
Island. It is not enumerated in Dr. Guliok's list, and therefore there is some doubt as to
its existence. If not, it is possibly the same as the latter island, as the descriptions in
some degree coincide.

8c2

uKt5iM,«B»3rr3s™e?'3«w»?»aHsffliWWi?^^

nrfBctrorKW—

75G

CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

Under no consideration should any of them bo

friendly they may appear.

allowed on deck. , „ ,^

The following are Lutke'a descriptions of them :-Betwecn the at. of 5
ir and 5° 37' N., long. 153° 59' and 153" 37' E., are three low coral groups.
on which may be reckoned ninety islets of various dimensions.

LUKTJNOR {Lougomor, Liitke-Z.^««or, Cheyno), the easternmost of
these groups, is of an oval form, and 18 miles in circuit. Lukunor Mand^^
the eastern angle of this group, is curved into the form of a horse-shoe and

forms an excellent port, which was named . ^''-'-' ^ ;'°°2' on th' s
naturalist who gave to the world the first notions worthy of credit on th.s
archipelago. The breadth of the island is from half a verst (one-third of a
mile) to 1 60 paces. Its middle, raised about 7 feet above the water level, is
covered with bread-fruit trees, and on the shores particularly, cocoa-nut and
other trees, the fruit on the top of which frequently hangs down to the
water of the interior lagoon. The southern part of the island is sandy but
towards the North there is much vegetable mould, on which are distributed
the arum plantations, which require a very humid soil, and near to which
are all the habitations of the natives. These plantations are intersected by
narrow channels, which conduct the water to irrigate all parts, and serve as
boundary marks. The woods which surround them form a magnificent
panorama, where plants of every species are in infinite variety, giving the
most excellent idea of the productions of these low islands. .. ^ , .

The island naturally has no fresh water, but the rain water is collected in
trenches and in a sort of reservoir, which the natives excavate in the trunks
of those cocoa-nut trees that were inclined. The water in the trenches was
always found to be brackish, and smelt bad. This slight resource suffices
for the inhabitants, inasmuch as they drink but little, and the cocoa-nut sup-
plies the deficiencies by its delicious contents. .,,,,• j
The Lukunorians were found by Captain Lutke to be hospitable, kind,
reserved, and of agreeable manners. They are above the middle size ; they
had apparently had some communication with shipping previously either
bv report or otherwise. Their canoes, in which they pass a considerable
portion of their lives, are constructed with infinite pains, and are very care-
fully preserved, the larger ones on shore ; and in their management they
Bhow great skill and judgment in the very long voyages which they^^^.^'^-
take by these means. These islanders are the easternmost of the Caroline

natives who thus travel. , „ , i • i„„j„

Lukunor offers no more resources than any other of the low coral islands.
The supply of fresh water depends on the abundance or scarcity of the rams.
There is no wood. A good supply of cocoa-nuts may be looked for ; bread-
fruit can only be had in the season. . Some poultry and pigeons were also
procrd. Vort Chamisso is in lat. 5° 29' 20" N.. long. 153= 58' E. Captain
Cheyne places it 8 miles further West. The population is about 200.

, any of them bo

'ecn the lat. of 3"

low coral groups,

ms.

le easternmost of

Lukunor Inland, at

a horse-shoe, and

in honour of the

of credit on this
•st (one-third of a
the •water level, is
irly, cocoa-nut and
ings down to the
land is sandy, but
ich are distributed
and near to which

are intersected by
parts, and serve as
orm a magnificent
variety, giving the

rater is collected in
ivate in the trunks
a the trenches was
ht resource suffices
I the cocoa-nut sup-

)e hospitable, kind,
e middle size ; they
; previously, either
pass a considerable
, and are very care-
r management they
I which they under-
lost of the Caroline

le low coral islands,
scarcity of the rains,
e looked for ; bread-
d pigeons were also
153° 58' E. Captain
is about 200.

THE SOTO AN GROUP, ETC. '''7

The 80T0AN GEOUP lies to the 8.W. of Lukunor. It is 17 miles in
length from N.W. to S.E., and 12 miles broad. About sixty islets were
counted on it. In two places openings in the reef wore observed, by means
of which, doubtless, an entrance into the lagoon might be effected. All the
islets are covered with wood, but it appeared to be less populous than
Lukunor. Only two or throe canoes approached the Siniavine, but no com-
munication was held with them,

Capt. Cheyne in the Naiad visited tho islands in Oct. 1814. lie found a
good passage through the reef, on the S. W. part of the group, and anchorage
in the lagoon, near tho entrance, but the bottom was very uneven and rocky.
The Naiad anchored in 25 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile to the
northward of the entrance, inside of a small islet bearing 8.W. from her
one-quarter of a mile, and lay there three weeks, during which time they
built a biche-de-mar house on the small island, but could not got the natives
to collect the slug, and consequently were obliged to leave. The present
population is about 500.

Captain Cheyne places the N.W. extreme in lat. 5° 27' N., long. 153° 27'
East, and the South extreme in 5° Hi' N., 153° 40' E.

The ETAL GROUP is tho third and northernmost of tho Mortlock Isles ;
it is a small group, not more than 12 miles in circumference, and composed
of several low coral islands and islets, thickly wooded, connected by a reef,
forming a lagoon inside. The channel between it and Sotoan is about 5
miles wide, and clear of danger. The centre of the group is in lat. 5° 38' N.,
long. 153' 24' U. (Cheyne). Population 200.

The NAMOLUE ISLANDS lie 35 miles to the N.W. of Lukunor. In
coming from the North the Siniavine passed them, at the distance of less
than 12 miles, which shows how readily these islands may be unnoticed
even within such a distance. They were also probably seen by Captain
Harwood, in the ship Eastings. They are most likely the same as the
Hashmy Islands (called by Dr. Gulick Mokor), announced as being 7ery popu-
lous in the Sydney Herald, March 25, 1833. Captain Cheyne of the Naiad
says they are five in number, the group 15 miles in circumference, of a
circular form, 100 feet high (to the top of the trees ?), and well wooded
with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and other trees. The reef may be approached
within 200 yards, as no hidden ('.angers exist. The natives, he says, though
wearing the mask of friendship, are by no means to be trusted. Popula-
tion 300.
Captain Liitke, the real discoverer, places the N.W. isle in lat. 5° 65' N.,

long. 153° 13i' E.

TEUK or HogoUu /s/anrf*.— This group is composed of four or five large
and lofty basaltic islands, surrounded by a barrier reef, on which are a great
number of coral islands. It is one of the most extonsivo in the Caroline
Archipelago, and was discovered by Captain Duperroy, June 21, 1824. His

. I

-^^VJ;'^,^^s^^l^B;j^gSBf!^tBlffa»^x;t w^ ' iwa i W^Je l t&^

td!^W ' . ' ".^.'.iiJ- ' ^ ' J^U^iJ^- ' . '

„j CAKOUNE AKOinrEI.ACO.

.umy PuUi»bod on . Urge Male in the atla, of his voyage, compri...
n r,uM of ou. knowledge of them, .. the relation oh. ,o„^ -
,.r .. cone,™ thi. part of the Paciac, ha. no. been pnbh.hed^ Ao»rd ng
,. the chart, the northe„,me.t of lb. gronp, «.« f?^''' '» "• ,' " ™ I
Ion,, ISIMO- 15'; the eonthernmo.1, Cm, hUnd, in lat. 7 » , long. l»i
°;«. Vl/.'-. the w..t.r„»ost, »l"^J-f •'7/^"'i;t
..o ea.;,™n.o.t, in Int. V ... long. IM" » • .^; X:^:^,:^
not more than 10 miles in circumference. It is ot very irreg .

on each of its projections is a hill, that to the S.E. heing 00 feet high. At
12 Ties to the East of it is Buk, 4 miles long and 700 feet high
''^2^ lat. r 18' N., long. 151° 49' E. (Cheyne) is three.,i.rters
of a mile in extent, covered with cocoa-nut trees and other wood. It has
linage to the N.W. of it, and plenty of fresh water can be procured on

^h:tS-/.W.of Captain Cheyne are probably the S.E extreme of
Hogoleu. He passed 7 or 8 miles to the eastward of them in Oetoberl84
fnd thought them a distinct group, as no part of the larger islands was
:lir ?hey are low. of coral, covered with wood jd en.o.ng a 1^^^^^^^^
They were thickly peopled by a vigorous race. Lat. 6 47 N., long.

'' Capt Morrell gives a glowing picture of the people, but unfortunately it is
J o'^rect Cap?. Cheyne, in the brig Naia, and WULoUU-Wup, came hero
L Oc 844, to collect biche-de-mar, and were completely taken off their

"a^diy he apparent friendliness of the natives, who at first assisted them

rbuild heir cLng houses. As soon as the brig left, they attacked the

hooner with a force of 2,000 men, and were only repulsed with desperate

fighting and the loss of six killed and five wounded. They also seized the

nTstered. They had a great number of large Spanish knives, and were
" med with brass-hilted cutlasses. The population, according to Dr. Quhck,

'' Hri8land.-In the relation of the voyages of Captain Saliz, in the
French ship Le Peruvien, 1825-27, it is stated that this group was discovered
by an English commander named Hall, in 1824. and that it consisted of two
^oups, separated by a channel, which was named after his vessel. Lady

Blackwood Passage. ., ,, •„ u:„ „„,

Captain Liitke examined them in detail, and describes them in his nar-

'^The MOTIEILETJ GEOTJP, which lies to the N.E., is composed of nine
islands, the principal of which are Mourileu, Bud, and Mmourousse. The
reef which surrounds them is of an irregular form On the leeward side i
iB for the most part submerged, and cannot be distinguished but by the
greennes. of the water. Should a vessel strike on this by night, there can

NAMOLiriAFANE— NAMONUITO ISLAND.

■)»

oyago, comprises
of his voyage, as
iBlied. According
in lat. 7° 42' 30 ',
t. 7^ 9', long. lAl"^
ng. 151° 28' ; and
jt of them, Tol, is
regular form, and
roo feet high. At
t high.

, is three-quarters
;her wood. It has
;an be procured on

he S.E. extreme of
n in October, 1844,
larger islands was
Bnolosing a lagoon.
' 47' N., long. 152"

it unfortunately it is
■the- Wisp, came hero
3tely taken off their
,t first assisted them
t, they attacked the
ilsed with desperate
Chey also seized the
vere drubbing admi-
ih knives, and were
arding to Dr. Qulick,

!aptain Saliz, in the
jroup was discovered
at it consisted of two
fter his vessel, Lady

ibes them in his nar-

is composed of nine
nd Namouromse. The
In the leeward side it
inguished but by the
is by night, there can

be but very little hope for safety. On the South coast of Kuil there is u
passage, even for large ships, which renders it probable that anchorage
would be found in the lagoon. The inhabitants only occupy the windward
islands, and do not go to the S.W. angle of the group, except for the pur-
poses of fishing.

The easternmost islet, Mourileu, is in lat. «° 47' N., long. 152" 20" East.
Topulation 100.

NAMOLIPIAFANE or Fananou of Liitke, is 40 miles in circumference,
and encloses thirteen islands, the principal of which are Ikop, Fananou, and
Natmuine. These islands, as well as those which coinposo the Mourileu
group, are very small, the largest not being more than two-thirds of a milo
long. The rest of the space is occupied by the reef, which is not less dan-
gerous hero than that of Mourileu. The entrance to the lagoon is ou the
South side.

Captain Liitke took off a sailor, William Floyd, who had been left here
by a whale ship, and from whom he gathered some particulars of the ar-
chipelago.

Namouine, or Namouyne, the southernmost, is in lat. V," 30' N., long. 15P
42 i' E. Population 50.

EAST FAIU or Lutke Island.* This little island possesses a name which
was repeated in another to the westward ; hence its prefix by Captain Liitke.
Krusenstom proposes the name of Lutke Island ou this account. It is but a
small islet, not more than a mile long, and about three-quarters of a mile
broad. The Caroline Islanders sometimes touch at this island in their pas-
sages to procure fresh water, which is deposited by the rain in a small basin
on it. It is in lat. 8° 33' 20" N., long. 151° 26' E. Population 50.

NAMONUITO ISLAND.— The S.W. isle of this group was seen by Capt.
Ibargoitia, in the Philippine, in 1801. He called it Anonima, because it did
not appear on the charts. It was named by Morrell Livingston Island, in 1832.
In Captain Duperrey's chart it is called Hunkei/s Island, from the name of a
commander who crossed the group (so it is stated) ic 1824

The Namonuito group, according to Captain Liitke's observations, lies
between lat. 8" 33' and 9° 0' N, and long. 150^ 31' and 149' 47' E. Whether
as the commencement or the base of a group of islands, or else of a single
island, which some day will exist here, this place merits particular attention.
It presents all the aspect of the coral formation from its origin. Either from
its later formation or its greater extent, it remains behindhand of the rest of
the group, and does not yet form but the elements of a group. Here is the
bed of the future coral dike, having a depth equal to 20 fathoms, and be-
strewed with banks of little depth. At the windward limit of this dike there

* It may be observed that Admiral Ivrusenstern has applied the name of l,iitke to the
large group to the West, next described in his atlas. This is probably an o\Lrsight.

:'« ^«)M!liWV.JA)VJ.«-.gH^ I!'JI« Wli.. 'a U.y.V, '' . ' ftj!r.'!f'.W

-''iMt-V iV^'M *^SS V CJ''-"'

-KSl*-i * -BJ ! - * ^-'^ ^' it ' " ' ' ''' '*"

CAROLINE ARCIIIPELAOO.

„„ tu, opposite -id, U,er. i. .1.0 an '«' »' .^ '» ™'' " ,,„,„.„ „ .„d
o^tromitio. for . -hort di-.a-ce .long I « d'k". '^° 'P , ,

,h. reof. boiag occupied Ly ."W.cd •'"^;;^^;V;!r^./„t tW. in-
,„^ 1--U. I. --;;;X:r o^ ,n^^^^^^^ -.""* '-

:ro:rSo:::;rL.^^^^

■r, J *!.• «« tlia N E face, are Ounalik, Amytuteu, x-in//»», '^

j;T;r*t"^.ia .« .0 --- :rr«::im
■^xzszj: rr: ot ri^d^- :r, .00... ... »<

U i„ .... S" a. N., Ion, H»- «• 3<" E. "7™ cdtl" . lani on the.o

=:;rr:i:XrrrirrL.p.p^^^^^^^^^^

« -B-otiiaT. Hanlc which was statod by Lharaisso

Ih. MMm.«.u or toy Jaatkar ftmk, rt,d. ^^^^ j,

,0 be found by Don Lui. T,.rr« .n at. 8 ™ J^.' '"J l,^^^ ,„ j,,;,

f..ho,n. water on it, wa, „„.ucce,, uHy -■;" ^^ '" f J',,,„„^ j„„i„,
p„.i«„„. He „iled on thl, P^J^ -j'^; ^"f jl ;.Hion of thi,

r.rjc::a:rr.:.--'-^^

i. .aid that t„e dl,c„«„r -'«"»' '^tl^Mln^Hi. of tbe sblp
Thl. bunk, probably, wae agam Been by OaP-''° ""' J

'"'T'fom 'jml rc^clrenoe. Lat. 8« 9' North, Ion,. US" 44'
e':: (^ :.■ Z^l p. is.) TWa l. n ■.«.. S.ntb of the older an-
_,n^ but it 1. perb.p. .not too great a diecrepancy.
TAMAT/^ or Z« »rf.>.. *»i ™ .een by Dupcn.y who pla es
TAMAlAm or x>o(. , . , . ,o ,v -m lone. 149° 29 E. They are
«.,», *« -7":;'''^° ', wutL e«u. reef, jutting out fron,
r -""^tl^il t*th::le lLd,lsHmile.N.W. from
them in aU directions, rmm , diameter, but is sur-

Tamatam, and is not more than . quarter of « ™1» '^^'J^ p^„.

rounded by . reef. 0/.f «^e -"^'mmo.., - » ^■'» '^^ ,^^„„,., ^,
,,,. „ U the >»'|^ttr;inTp;p"^;a Id appear to be ,ery lightly

:':rr:r:trtr::rnt o^f .he reefs .nd d.ng.r., the

it yet continuous ;
;ond from the two
D Viotweon it and
utill separated \>y
roKress of this in-
completely form,
East to West,
r, or J mrarre (or
g. l.iO" 3'2' 30' E.
lUpal, and Onooup ;
r and Maghjrarik.
on which the sea
greenish colour of

nima of Ibargoitia,
I Maghyr, the reef
d not land on these
ipulation 60.
stated by Chamisso
, 149°, and had 21
Dupt. Liitke in thin
48° without finding
the position of this
•se of formation. It
lit.

:jaughlin of the ship
, and sounded in 19i
iistinguished as of a
North, long. 148° 44'
ath of the older an-

cy-

)upeney, who places
19° 29' E. They are
reefs jutting out from
li miles N.W. from
diameter, but is sur-
38 N.N.E. from Fana-
others, surrounded by
pear to be very lightly
coa-nut trees ; but the
! but little inducement
eefs and dangers, the

rOLOAT-mONS sriOAL.

7f51

strong currents which sot between them, and uIho from thn hostile an<l
trtmchorouH character of the natives. Population 200*

POLOAT, or Kndi'rhj hdimh, a name given to a group by Tnpt. Renneck,
in 1S20, in tiio service of the well-known noblo merchants of London. In
1799, Captain Ibargoitia discovered an island, which lie called A'ata Island ;
but Frejcinet decided that it wns in reality two islands, one of which is
called Pouluuhut {I'uhat), and the other Alct, which iw in lat. 7' 19' 2o' N.,
long. 149" 17' E. ropulati(m 100.

Enderby Bank, a coral reef with 7 fathoms water, lies 7 miles West of
Alot, and the Uranie Bank lies 6 miles eastward of Poloat ; it Iuih 22 futhonis.

8UK (Poulonsouk, Sooiighe), or IhargoiHa Island, ^yrns seen by Captain
Ibargoitia in 1799 and 1801. It was named Poulousouk (Pulo Suk) by Capt.
Ercycinet, and was taken by Ibargoitia, though witu no probability, for tJio
.SVrt Bartolom6 of Quiros, in 1597. Its position is about lat. 0" 40', long. 149°
8' E. Captain Cheyno places it in lat. 6" 35', long. 148° 22'. It is of coral
formation, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and similar in size and appearance
to Poulouhot. It is inhabited by a light-complexioned race, 100 in number.
It is called Soonghe on Liitko's chart. At 5 leagues to the East of it is a
bank seen by the vessel La Paz, in 1819.

Captain Cheyne says : — I wns told by tlio master of a whaler some years
ago, that a coral bank, with irregular soundings of from 10 to 30 fathoms,
extends from this island to the N. W., for a considerable distance, and termi-
nates in a dangerous reef. The only idea he could give of the distance, was,
that when abreast of the reef, the trees on Pulo-souk were just visible from
the topsail yard. This danger requires confirmation ; but ships passing
should be on their guard, and keep a good look-out.

Irons Shoal. — A coral shoal was sailed over by Captain D. Irons, of the
Lady Elgin. The spot struck in 10 fathoms was in lut. 6° 18' N., long. 149°
28' 30" E. from which a depth of 7^ fathoms was carried for about 1^ mile
to S.S.W. and then to N.N.W., when broken water wf.s seen to North and
clear water to West. {Naut. Mag. 1855, p. 278.) It may bo the same as
the La Paz Bank of 1819, which is placed at 25 miles to the northward.

• Blacklock Shoal.— Captain Blacklock, of the ship Cowiemulzit, in 1861, reported a
shoal at 20 miles E. by N. | N. from the Martires, in lat. 70° 35' N., long. 149° 36' E, He
saw the bottom quite distinctly under the ship, and all around her, with casts of 7 fathoms
on one side of the ship, and 15 fathoms on the other; he believed the water was much
shoaler in some places, as some of the coral heads appeared to him close to the surface. He
sailed for 3 miles on an East course, carrying soundings of from- 7 to If) fathoms, then
suddenly 30, and no bottom at 100 fathoms. If the position of this shoal is correct, tho
Miirtires must be considerably too far to tho eastward on the charts, and it should be ol>-
ccrved, that ii would be impossible to soe them at the distance reported by Captain
Blacklock.

-■sgi»CTMiy«»<««CTtw»ragn»warji».:35^^«s=ggK3»rfti»^^ >i .T »!te»jS« j ? w . u , ■■ •

76'i CAROLINE AltCniPELAao.

PIKELOT or Cuquille hlet.—Th'xH HmuU islet was seen July ;3, 1824, by
Captain l)up(»rroy, in lut. H° 12' N., long. 147" 41' 30" E. It was niinuMl
after Duporrey'B vossnl by KrusonBtorn ; tho diBcoverer naniod it Jtiffali ;
Liitke writes it /'/«/ 'i', or I'yghella. Don Luis Torrox, who saw it and tho
adjacent island, names them Pigouelao and Faliao. It is more than 300 yards
in diameter, and nearly level with the water's edge, and surrounded by a
roof. It is covered with a thick undergrowth of bushes, and about tifiy
cocoa-nut trees. It is uninhabited.

WEST FAITJ ISLET, which lies in lat. 8° 7 J' North, long 146" 47' 30'
East, that is, 55 miles exactly West of Pikelot, is a similar islet to it, both
in size and character ; tho reef forms a small bay on it. There is a high
wood OD it. among which broad-fruit trees wore seen, but not a single cocoa-
nut tree. It is also uninhabitod. There is another island of the same name
to the eastward, before alluded to, which has boon namod Liitke Island for

distinction.

The Oraitilipou Bank, soen by Don Luis Torres, lies somewhere between
those two islets. It had but 11 fathoms over it, but was not found by Liitke,
after a careful search.

PikelaoT Lydia Island is marked on Captain Duperrey's chart in lat. 8'
38', long. 147" 10'. Its existence may bo considered as doubtful, but it is
mentioned in Dr. Gulick's list.

SATAWAL (Setuuhal) or Tucker Island, was seen by Captain Wilson, in
the missionary ship Duff, October 25, 1793. Duporrey places it in lat. 7"
22' N. long. 147° 6' E. The island is not more than 2 or 3 miles in circum-
ference, and the articles of subsistence it produces are supposed to be only
fish, roots, cocoa-nuts, and, perhaps, bread-fruit. When the Z>m/ approached,
some canoes of natives (not a stout race) came off, and two men. Tucker and
ConneUy, deserted here. Captain Cheyne (1846) says that it may be ap-
proached within one-quarter of a m"le, as no hidden danger exists ; that it is
of coral formation, covered with cocoa-aut trees. It has about 200 in-
habitants.

Swede Islands.— These islands consist of three separate groups, that to
the East being named Lamotreh (Namurrek or Namouttok) ; the western-
most, Elato: and the southernmost, Olimarao or Namoliaour. They are
most likely the islands named Swede and Ilaweis Islands by Captain Wilson,
of the Duff, 1793, the first on account of a Swedish sailor of his, who was
landed at his own request on one of them. They were examined by Liitke.

LAMOTBEK (of Dr. Qulick), an atoll of a triangular form, is 6 miles in
extent E.S.E. and W.N.W. Several islets stand on the reef, which encloses
the lagoon, the S.E. of which is in 7° 32' N., long. 146° 30' E. Popula-
tion 200.

ELATO or Ilaweis is nearly on the same parallel as Lamotrek, in lat. 7"
30 N. long. 146° 15' E. This bide of tho group consists of an uncovered

*rj

uly 3, 1824, by
It was nunifMl
iniod it liigali ;
naw it tiiul Dio
> than 300 yards
iirroundud by a
and about tifty

mg 146" 47' 30'
islet to it, both
There is a bigli
t a single cocoa-
f the same nanio
.iitke Island fur

owhero between
found by Liitke,

chart in lat. 8'
Libtful, but it is

itain Wilson, in
laces it in lat. 7°
miles in circum-
posed to be only
Duff approached,
nen, Tucker and
it it may be ap-
exists ; that it is
IS about 200 iu-

groups, that to
k) ; the westorn-
lour. They are
Captain Wilson,

of his, who was
lined by Liitke.
rm, is 6 miles in
f, which encloses

30' E. Popula-

lotrek, in lat. 7°
of an uncovered

OLIMAK.VO ISLES— IFALIK ISLANDS.

rc.i

roof, with some islots, one of which is called Falipi. On the chart of Ciiii-
tova, nearly in this spot, is marked liank nf Falipi. Can this bank luivd
become an island in the interval of lOO years ':• There is a port in the Ehito
group, and the vessels sent from the Marianas to collect bicho-do-mar aiways
stop here. Captain Lutke could not find the entrance to the lagooi:, which
ho was afterwards told was on the eastern side, contrary to the usual law nf
coral reefs. The natives wore very shv, and would not visit his ship. I're-
sent population 300.

lanthe or Nile Shoal. — Two shoals have been announced as existing iit
80 and 102 miles rospoctivoly distant from K'llik or Wilson Island, in a H.
by r. direction. The first by the ship lanthe in 18lf>, as in lat. 5" 63' N.,
long. 143° 39' E. {Xaut. Mag. 1846, page 265, and 1861, pngo 166) • and the
second by the barque Nile, in 1860, as in lat. 5" 31' N., long. 1 15" 42' E.,
nearly on the same meridian, but 22 miles apart.

The lanthe passed within one or two ships' lengths of the eastern edge and
the shoalest part of a ridge of sharp rocks (apparently not more than 8 or
10 feet under water, the water of a milky whiteness) in soundings of proba-
bly 6 or 8 fathoms. The shoal appeared to extend S. by E. and N. by W.
about half a mile. The lanthe claims to have obtained on the same day a
good meridian altitude, and estimates the nearest land to have been distant
85 miles. The Nile passed over a reef, with little room to spare, the rocks
being plainly seen on each side of the vessel, and the man aloft reported
breakers on one side ; the barque was before the wind, and only a few
minutes between the rocks. Notwithstanding the great difference in the
latitude, the two reports refer probably to one and the same reef.

Should they be but one reef, the mean latituue would be 5° 42' N., other-
wise there may be a continuous reef or series of reefs between the above
parallels.

OLIMABAO ISLES, two small islets surrounded by a roef, discovered in
1828 by Capt. Lutke, in lat. 7° 43' 30" N., long. 145" 56' 46" E. The group
is not more than 5 or 6 miles in circuit, and seems to have some timid inha-
bitants, who asked for food, now about 200 in number.

IFALIK or Wilson Islands. — This is a small group, seen as two isles by
Wilson, in the Buff, in 1793. They were visited by Lutke, April 3, 1828,
and were found to consist not of two, but of four islets ; Ifalik (or Evalouk),
Moai, Ella, and Fararik, lying, as usual, on the edges of a lagoon about 5
miles in circumference. This group is more populous in proportion than the
others. The Seniavine was soon surrounded by twenty-five canoes, contain-
ing at least a hundred natives, who were distinguished from all the rest of
the Caroliners by their clamorous disposition ; he had some little trouble
from their stealing propensities. Captain Cheyno says there is a good
boat passage through the reef, on the South side of the gi-oup. The islets

•IS

1 15

5.;

-t»ttyar.t'qaaiwcT*sat M tr )t 8* ^ 3S ; 3 r i<5WBgy?i^Sy^

764 CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

are covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. The N.E. point of the

croup is in 7-^ 15' N., 144" 30' E. Population 200.

WOLEA or Ulie Islands.-Captain AVil«on, in the />«/, 1793, d.scovered
aKn,up which he named the Thirteen Mands ; but when the minute e.-
aminaLn was made by Lieut. Zayalichine, Captain Lutke's oftcer. .t was
fouui ^0 consist of 22 islands, ♦^e names of which are very well designated
on Capt. li.vcinefs chart and by M. Chamisso. The name, as g.ven on the
chart on a la;ge scale then drawn up, is Oulleay, in the narrative Ouleat, by

Dr. Gulick as above.

From the observations made in the Seniavine, the southern pomt oiRaour,
the easternmost of the group, lies in lat. 7° 20' T' N., long. 143^ 53 E.

The charts of this group are a very good example of what exaggeration
will do to mislead the navigator. In the old charts this group occupies a
space of two or three degree, in longitude. Captain Freycmet reduced it to
Lr^ty miles ; but when the survey was made by Captain Lutke, it was found
not to exceed six nautic miles in extent. , . ,

The fatiguing uniformity of the coral islands has at least th.s advantage,
that one description serves for all. But the Wolea group differs from the
others in this respect. Its figure is very irregular ; it has two projecting
angles to the North, and a deep indentation between them. According to
the usual hypothesis of formation, this figure cannot be explained but by
supposing that two independent groups were formed at the same time m
this part The channel of 12 yards, between the islands of Angahgarad and
Faraaes, seems to mark their separation. The reef, which extends thence
to tlie S.E., reunites abreast of Motogozea to the reef runmng ^""^ «*°"'
Island, thus completing the eastern group ; at the same time a depth of 4*
fathoms, and the reef extending East and N.E. from Felahs, marks the
direction of the prolonged reef, which would in time reach to larailes, and

form the western group. • i „j „nf

WoLKA or Ouleai, properly so called, is advantageously distinguished not
only from the rest of the group, but from the generality of coral islands.
Its southern side has not the shoal which renders landing so difficult else-
where ; but the shore rises with a tolerably steep ascent, presenting an even,
clean, sandy bottom, on which every grain of sand may be seen through the
transparent water at the depth of several fathoms. The interior of the
island is pleasant; it is a wood intersected in all directions by footpa hs,
and dotted with cleared spots, where you meet with isolated houses. Unlike
the generality of coral islands, when you advance only a few steps from one
shore and then reach the opposite, it occupies a large space, on which tine
bread-fruit trees have sufficient room to form a sort of park. It occupies
the N.E. angle of the group, and is of an irregular triangular form, three-
quarters of a mile in diameter. Its North extreme is in lat. 7" 22 6" N.,
long. 143'^ 57' 63" E.

FORAULEP.

705

N.E. point of the

ujf, 1793, discovered
hen the minute er-
itke's officer, it v/as
rery -well designated
ame, as given on the
narrative Ouleai, by

thern point of Raour,
)ng. 143' 53' E.
if what exaggeration
his group occupies a
eycinet reduced it to
n Lutke, it was found

least this advantage,
roup differs from the
it has two projecting

them. According to
t be explained but by
i at the same time in
ds of Angaligarail and
which extends thence
' running from Eaour
me time a depth of 4^
m Felalis, marks the
reach to Farailes, and

usly distinguished not
rality of coral islands,
mding so difficult else-
int, presenting an even,
ay be seen through the
). The interior of the
irections by footpaths,
Bolated houses. Unlike
ly a few steps from one
^e space, on which fine
rt of park. It occupies
triangular form, three-
) is in lat. 7" 22' 6" N.,

Palliou Island extends from its S.E. extremity in a nearly true South direc-
tion, and is nearly connected with Raour Island, the south -easternmost of
the group, the two together being IJ milo in length.

On the western side of Eaour, off the North part of which the Seniavine
anchored, are four or five artificial harbours, such as had not been seen in
any other part of the Carolines. A jetty of large stones ran out for 100
yards into the sea, and at each side of its extremity another line of stones,
projecting at an angle of about 60°, so that the whole has something the
iorm of an anchor. From the South end of Eaour the reef projects nearly
half a mile ; and between it and Tagoikp Island, 2 miles to the W.N.W., is
Mbtogozeu Islet, which is very small, and, like all the rest, surrounded by a
reef, so that the anchorage in the eastern group has two entrances, one on
each side of Motogozeu.

Felalisse or Falalis Island, the S.W. of the group, lies 2 miles to the S.W.
of Tagoilap. Between it and Motogozeu there are some detached coral
patches. The reef runs to the N.W. three-quarters of a mile from Felalisse,
leaving a navigable opening into the lagoon between it and FaMap or Fa-
luellap, a small islet, one of a group which extends N.N.W. and N. 1£ mile
to Oulemera)/, the N.W. island of the group. Thence the chain is continued
through Seliape and some smaller islands to E.S.E. to Farailesse, between
which and Langaligaraile is the very narrow but navigable channel before
alluded to, forming a northern entrance to the lagoon.

Captain Cheyue says : This group is well inhabited by a light copper-
complexioned race, who, although friendly in appearance, should not be
trusted. Their weapons consist of Spanish knives, spears, clubs, slings, and
stones. Their canoes are similar in shape to the proa of the Mariana Islands.
They perform voyages to Guam, and the other Caroline Islands in them.
Their food consists of cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, taro, bananas, sugar-cane, and
fish. Ships holding intercourse with these natives should not allow any of
them on deck. Dr. Gulick says the population is 600.

FORAULEP (Farroilap or Fattoilap) was in reality first discovered by
Lutke, March 28, 1828. Such an island is stated to have been seen by Don
L. Torres, but it had been placed at hazard on all charts previous to its
position being fixed as lat. 8" 36' N., long. 144° 36' E.* It is a small group,
not more than 4 miles in circuit, and composed of three islets, with a lagoon
in the middle. The group cannot afford much for resources. Its population
was about sixty able men in 1828. It is now uninhabited, according to Dr.
Gulick, who calls it Gardner Island.

• It is rather singular that Capt. Wilkes fhould state this island to be in lat. 10° 46' N.,
long, ue" 27' E., from the charts. The Flying Fish consequently passed over this position
without seeing any indication of land ; tho same with Feis Island. Narrative of the United
States' Exploring Expedition, vol. v. p. 271.

faMtf^^r^ n J l^ mujiJA;! ! i,tjJ.. ' MH» H » »> M » ' V ^ R BM W Wj ^»e > l i ivV I W J' l^^m - J H

it. S-J,',!^i£'a^!S^,i

766

CAROLINE AECHirELAGO.

GRIMES ISLAND.— From a report in the China Mail, Captain Grimes of
the ship Jean discovered, in 1841, a high and well-wooded island, of 6 miles
in circumference, in lat. 9'' 16' N., long. 145' 43' E. It was again seen in
1855 by Captain Vice, of the French ship Chili, in lat. 9° 17' N. long. 145°
ir E. ; the descriptions entirely agree, and differ quite from Farroilep. It
has since been announced as Jliffh Island, in lat. 9=^ U' N., long. 145° 45' E.,
so that the latter position is probably nearly correct. It is not included in
Dr. Gulick's list.

EAURIFIK or Eourypyg is a small group, composed of only two islets.
Lutke, who passed along its northern side, had no communication with the
inhabitants who he saw standing on the beach, consequently could gather
no particulars of it. It has a lagoon. Their existence was then established,
though on Arrowsmith's chart two islands are placed nearly in the same
position, stated to have been seen by Captain Hunter in 1791 ; there is no
notice of this given in his narrative. Their position is lat. 6° 40' N., long.
143° 10' E. Captain Cheyne calls them the I^ama Islands, and were visited
by him in September, 1844. The population amounted to about 150 ; now
it is only 50. The islets produce nothing but cocoa-nuts.

SOBOL or Philip Islands, two small islands, both seen by Captain Hunter
in 1791. The easternmost is the largest, and is 6 miles from the other. On
Captain Lutke's chart they are placed in lat. 8° 6' N., long. 140° 52'. Popu-
lation 20.

FAIS or Tromelin Island.— In 1828, Captain Legoarant de Tromelin disco-
vered a small low island in lat. 9° 52' N., long. 140° 42' E., to which Adm.
Krusenstern gave his name. It is said that it is 5 miles long and 2 miles
broad. Captain Lutke examined it in 1828, and places it in lat. 9° 47' N.,
long. 140° 38' E., calling it Feis or Feys. The size he mentions is also very
different from Captain Tromelin. He says:— This island is remarkable,
because it is the only one of the Carolines that has no lagoon ; it is formed
of madreporic rocks', 30 ft. high, against which the sea beats immediately. It
is four versts (2 J miles) in circumference. There is no anchorage in any part.
On the South side, where the coast is sandy, there is less surf. Landing
waa very difficult here, and the natives were not so good sailors as in any
other island of the archipelago. Bread-fruit trees were rare, but bananas
were in tolerable abundance. Population 300.

TTLITHI or Mackenzie Islands. — This group was discovered by the Spanish
navigator, Egoi, and was seen in 1823 by Captain Mackenzie, who gave
some notice of it in the Asiatic Journal for June, 1824. It was partially
examined by Capt. Lutke, who states that the native name is Ouluthy.

It was on one of the group, Mogmog, that the Spanish Jesuit, Padre Can-
tova, was killed on his second visit to the Carolines. This was during the
endeavours to establish Catholic missions throughout the archipelago. Whrn
Captain Lutke passed Falalep, on which the mission was planted, ho was

EAP OR YAP.

767

)tain Grimes of
ind, of 6 miles
again seen in
rN. long. 145°
. Farroilep. It
ig. 145° 45' E.,
not included in

only two islets,
nation with the
y could gather
len established,
rly in the same
31 ; there is no
6° 40' N., long,
md were visited
ibout 150 ; now

Captain Hunter
. the other. On
40° 52'. Popu-

Tromelin disco-
to which Adm.
mg and 2 miles
n lat. 9° 47' N.,
ions is also very
. is remarkable,
on ; it is formed
immediately. It
rage in any part.
} surf. Landing
aLlors as in any
ire, but bananas

d by the Spanish
enzie, who gave
It was partially
is Ouluthy.
isuit, Padre Can-
i was during the
[ihipelago. Whrn
planted, ho was

unable to laud ; which is to be regretted, as it would bo interesting to learu
the result of the missionaries' devotodnesa after the lapse of a eoutury.

The Islands Mogmog, Falalep, and others, on which was this Spanish
mission, are at the eastern part of the group. The whole is of groat ex-
tent, and consists of low coral islands, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and
connected by coral reefs, forming a large lagoon inside, with many 'good
passages through tho reef leading into it. This group is thickly populated
by a light-complexioned race, whose manners and customs are similar to
those of the other Caroline islanders. These natives, although apparently
mild and friendly to a stranger, are by no means to be trusted, as one or two
Manila vessels were cut off at this group some years ago.

The two small islands on tho eastern group, Ear and Ehilap or niehp,
are connected by a reef to each other and to some others beyond them!
These isles are inhabited, and from them a shoal extends for 15 miles to the
S.E. The bottom was distinctly visible on its outer edge from the Senimmt,
but some natives who approached said there was no danger in approaching
these islands, though their notions of such danger might be very different
from ours.

The western group, which is 8 leagues in extent from North to South, is
formed of a great number of smaU islands (the chief of which are Mogmog or
Moguemogue, Troilem, Falalep, &c.), united to; ather by coral reefs. The
two groups are separated by a channel 8 miles broad, into which Captain
Lutke entered as far as the middle. The United States' schooner, Flyitig
Fish, entered the lagoon with not less than 7 fathoms on the bar, and pro-
cured some fish and cocoa-nuts from the natives. They are now about 200
in number.

The S.W. point of the eastern group, which may be taken as the centre
of all the islands, is in lat. 9° 56' N., long. 139° 50' E.; and the island
Mogmog, the northernmost of the western group, is in lat. 10° 6' N long
139° 45' 30" E. Captain Wilkes makes the East extremity of them'in lat
10° 7' 53' N., and long. 139° 54' 58" E.

EAP or Yap has been seen by many navigators, both in early times and
more recently. The Padre Oantova gives it a circumference of 40 leagues,
but it is not nearly so extensive. It is frequently made by ships taking the
eastern passage to China, and is also caUed Unawb by Captain Horsburgh.

At a distance it assumes the appearance of two or three islands, and when
nearer it seems Uke a group of islands contiguous to each other, the whole
encompassed by a chain of black rocks. This deception probably caused
Captain John Hunter, who passed it in 1791, to place three islands in this
situation.

The island has a pleasing aspect from the sea, being interspersed with
many houses. It is estimated to extend from North to South about ^

■ fc» «W; K« L » « M< HwyiKww «»wri |^ TV;il* y iT?-y!y gl ff a C Tftygg ^ r - iii ' . '"^

768 CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO.

lenguGB, and the position of the North end has been inferred to lie in lat.
9" 40' N. ; of the South end the latitude has been given from the mean of
several observations, 9° 30' 30' N. ; the longitude, also from numerous ob-
servations, from 138° 7' E. to 138= H' E. The southernmost land is low,
but rises to the northward into hills. This island is not covered with wood,
but many parts appear luxuriant, and abound in cocoa-nut trees. On tlie
southern and western sides the roef is dangerous, audit extends in a W.S.W.
direction 2 leagues from the S.W. end of the island. It is steep-to, and
some of the black rocks appear just above water near its extremity.

Captain Cheyno says :— The island is surrounded by a coral reef, which
extends from its southern end 2 or 3 miles ; and more in a W.S.W. direction
from the S.W. point. It is possessed of an excellent harbour on the S.E.
side, formed in an angle of the coast, by reefs. The entrance, which is
through the reef, is about 200 yards wide, and can easily be made out from
the mast-head when standing along the reef. When inside the channel
widens, and trends more to the northward. The anchorage at the head of
the harbour, off the village of Tomal, is perfectly safe, the holding-ground
good, and the depth of water moderate.

The South part of the island is low, but it rises into hills towards the
centre, which is moderately elevated. It is visible 8 or 9 leagues, and makes
in throe hummocks, which would lead a stranger passing to mistake it for
three islands. There is very little wood inland. The shore in many places is
Uned with mangroves, and the low lands between the villages are covered
with small wood. The cocoa-nut tree is very abundant, particularly on the
southern part. The villages are situated near the shore amongst groves of
cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and betel-nut trees. In consequence of the scarcity
of large timber, the natives get their proas built at the Pallou Islands, which
they frequently visit.

The natives are an able-bodied race, well formed, and of a light copper
complexion. They are more advanced in civilization than any of the other
Caroline Islanders ; their villages being regularly laid out in streets, which
are neatly paved. They have also well constructed stone wharves and piers.
Each village has a large paved square, where the chiefs assemble for con-
sultation. Captain Cheyne remained here seven weeks in 1813, collecting
biche-de-mar.

Eap, as before stated, is thickly populated by a iight-complexioned race :
they are of a treacherous disposition, and have cut off several Manila
vessels which have gone there to collect biche-de-mar. The chiefs con-
fessed to Captain Cheyne, of the Naiad, that they had taken two Spanish
vessels; the last one having a crew of fifty Manila men, who wore all
massacred.
The tribe at the harbour had formed a conspiracy to cut them off, but

Uf<i

Ted to lie in lat.
rom the mean of
u numerous ob-
lost land is low,
'ered with wood,
t trees. On llie
ndsiuaW.S.W.
is steep-to, and
:tremity.

coral reef, which
VV.S.W. direction
•bour on the S.E.
itrance, which is
)e made out from
side the channel
e at the head of
e holding-ground

hills towards the
lagups, and makes
to mistake it for
in many places is
luges are covered
)articularly on the
.mongst groves of
ico of the scarcity
lou Islands, whicli

I of a light copper
I any of the other
t in streeta, which
wharves and piers,
assemble for con-
n 1813, collecting

amplexioned race :
ff several Manila
The chiefs con-
taken two Spanish
nen, who wore all

cut them oS, but

NGOLI OR MATELOTAS ISLANDS.

7(i!)

thoy wore put on their guard by a neighbouring hostile tribe. No merchant
vessel passing should have any intercourse with these natives, or allow
them on deck, as they are not to be trusted. Dr. Gulick says that the present
population is 2,000.

Honter Beef, a narrow coral reef, over which Captain John Hunter
passed in the JFaakzamheydt, July 17th, 1791. He had 10 fathoms water
when on it, and saw the bottom very distinctly. It extends nearly Nortli
and South, and is about 7 leagues N. by E. of lap. Lat. 9" 57^' N., long.
1,3 8" 13' E.

NQOLI or the Matelotas Llundx. — The first notice of these islands was
given by Villalobos, who discovered them in 1545, but it would appear that
thoy had been previously visited, for the inhabitants approached holding up
a cross, and calling JJuenas dian Matelotas, from which their name was given.
On Captain Liitke's chart they are called the Western Lamoliauur Group ;
Dr. Gulick says Lamoliorl Islands ; and they have been called the Goulou
Islands. They were seen in 1796 by Admiral Eainior, in the Suffolk, who
gave them the name of Spencer Keys.

The Ngoli or Matelotas group is composed of three small, low, and wooded
islands, connected by reefs and sand-banks. The two northern one.s bear
from each other N.E, | E. and S.W. I V/., and it is dangerous to approach
them in the night, as a coral reef projects 2 leagues to the northward of the
N.E. island, having in some places high breakers. On January 3rd, 1798,
Captain Moring, in the ship Buckinyfield Ilall, had groat difficulty in weather-
ing the gi'oup. He says : — " How far the reefs may extend to the westward
I cannot protend to say, but they stretched farther than we could see on a
clear dav, The distance from the northernmost to the southernmost island
is about 6 leagues." In 1843 the South island was inhabited, but the popu-
lation did not amount to more than thirty-five souls, who live entirely on
cocoa-nuts and fish. The population of the group is 100.

Captain Chejne thus describes them : — The South islet, which has cocoa-
nut trees, and a few inhabitants on it, is in lat. 8° 17' N., long. 137" 33' E.
From this to the N,E. islet, which is in lat. 8° S5' N., long. 137^ 40' E., the
reef on the easteni aide, is at some distance from the South islet, in de-
tached patches, on which the sea does not break with a westerly wind. The
reef extends 6 miles in a northerly direction from the N.E. islet ; and its
North extreme ia in lat. 8° 41' N. The western islet lies in a S.W. by W.
direction from the N.E. one, and is also sunounded by dangerous reefs.
Tlieir extent to the West and N.W. has not been ascertained, but they pro-
bably connect the islets. There is a passage on the N.W. side of the South
islet leading to the lagoon, but the anchorage inside, if any, would be very
unsafe. This is a most dangerous group, and should have a good berth in
passing, particularly in hazy weather, or dark nights, as the islet cannot be
North Pacific. 3 »

W(ttWPI!MI,n'*W.»tWI!*R'>i

.d«i^

-3C^

770 PAIAU OR PELEW ISLANDS.

seen above 10 or 11 miles in clear daylight, and strong currents often prevail
in their vicinity. The southern islet is safe to approach on the South side,
as no hidden dangers exist.*

PALATJ OE PELEW ISLANDS.

There is no doubt but that these islands are the same as the A.recifos
of Villalobos in 154r,. According to the Spanish missionaries, Padres Clara
and Cantova, the native name is Patihifue ; other authorities call them
Palao,, PaUy, or rallon. In the charts made by Captain Macluor they
a:-e called Felhw. But the name by which they were generally known
is Pelew, which, though not exacUy correct, has for this reason been

retained.

It is very generally known that w^i acquired a more particular knowledge
of these isles and their inhubitauts, irom the wreck of the Antelope packet.
Captain Wilson, which was lost upon the coast in 1783. "The captain,"
says an intelligent writer, " found the natives delicate in their sentiments,
friendly in their disposition, and, in short, a people that do honour to the
human race. The astonishment which those who first discovered the English
manifested on seeing their colour, plainly showed that they had never before
seen a white man. The country is well covered with timber trees, the trunks
of which furnish the natives with canoes, some large enough to carry thirty
men. Yams and cocoa-nuts, being their chief article of subsistence, are at-
tended to with the utmost care. They have also the bread-fruit tree, oranges,
lemons, and other fruits. The men go entirely naked ; the women nearly so.
The conduct of these people towards the English was uniformly courteous
and attentive, accompanied with a politeness which surprised those who were
the objects of it."

Captain Cheyne says— The Pallou natives are quite a distinct race from
the Caroline Islanders. They are of a much darker complexion, less robust
generally, and of smaller stature, but a great deal more intelligent, and
polished in their manners.

Captain Robertson, in his memoir of 1795, has very justly censured the
ofhcers of the Antelope for not having given, in any part of their narrative,
the smallest information, or " said one single word, whether it was possible
for a ship to anchor amongst, or near, any of these islands ;" and he ob-
serves that the only piece of nautical information he could find is the general
description of their limits, which ho has shown to be grossly erroneous.
Captain Robertson says that the group "is a distinct range or chain of

• Warwiek Island, a whaler's report, in lat. 4* 24' N., long. 136" 26' E., requires con-
firmation.

its often prevail
he South side,

8 the A.recifoH
B, Padres Clara
■ities call tliein
n Macluor they
enerally known
is reason been

iular knowledge
Antelope packet,
"The captain,"
leir sentiments,
3 honour to the
)red the English
lad never before
trees, the trunks
W to carry thirty
jsistence, are at-
lit tree, oranges,
romen nearly so.
ormly courteous
I those who were

stinct race from

)xion, less robust

intelligent, and

itly censured the
f their narrative,
Br it was possible
Is ;" and he ob-
nd is the general
rosslj' erroneotis.
mge or chain of

6' E., requires con-

I'ALAU OK PEj^EW ISLANDS
-lands, extending 28 leagues i„ length N.N E and S S W , " '

very narrow; they are of moderate heigh .Ir, ',^"* '" ^™"'^"^

«io.st innumerable ; they have oft«n ^ . '"'' """^ "^ ""'"^'^r al-

.oing to China by 'the lll'l^^r ^Th^r ^ "f: ^^I^-^'-'^'l-
opportunity of exactly determinin/f , • , ^ "'""(">■'> 1781, I had an

direction; we fell in with ta™",""; T"^^"' -'-n.ity „„d eastern
weather them. After gett ng s It of t^ T '' ''" '"'^ •'^•' ^'""^-^^ ^o

-ore northerly, whichtven^r ^ to, ^ f'''^'^' ''' ^'"^ ^"""'^^
-land we at fir«t took to be troTortl ! 71 ""' "^'^ '" ^^'^-^'^er the

loss of time, we wore and stood to thl S . ^'"'^"'^''J' ^vithout a great
at -he distance of about Ms le tu" ,' """""^ '^'""^ "^-'-^s,

southernmost, at the distanc^o le' 1 T \T ^''^' ^''""'^^'^ "-
allowing the latitude, by a good meHI 'T "^"^ ^'^ ^^^^^ « departure

northernmost island I mat tot •nr;"/N'f'' '' '' '" ^°' ^^ ' *"«
and distance, two hours after the noon observaL wP TT'' '"""^^
find, on comparison, perfectly agreed wi^h tU ' , . '"'" ^'^^^ *"
passed to the northward of them Tnald e "' ''"" ^'"'^'^ ^^^'^

true latitude. As to their longTtude I ! ' «PI-tunity of settling their

a discordancy i„ all the account ttt. "' '"I' " "^^^'° ^ ^^^^ --'^
exactly. I have taken the mean of whL "'"f'*^ '" "<^ *« ^^^^^--e
which, I believe, is not very fTrVol i^tT'^r /'^ "° "°^* ^^^'^^-^-^ ^
factory and authentic nautical tf" 1. ' '''' "^^'^^'^ "-^' -*^-

Wilson's account of them, puUis ed bTMrKX ^V'T '^^"'^ ^-'"
disappointed, there being not one »S^ , ' * '" *''''* ^ ^'^^ ««dly

«. BKetcn ot the southern raTi.>-A nf ♦!, • i ,
Macluer, was published by ^71,11 ' ^ "^r*^^' ^^ I^-"tenant John

arrival in England evinced such an aptitdefoA^^^^ f ^' '^"'^ - h-

such an excellent disposition that hL I.t T "^'^''"'^ ''^^'''''''' ^'th
Dec. 27, 1784, when he was Iwen y ea^ M Tf" ^°^' "^""'^'^ "'^--^

with lively sensation. He walbulr t'Tl '''* "'""^'""^ ^"^'-"d

;;;.W. angle, he having^L^tXr^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^

the vault over his remains.* Comp;niy erected

4to.. 1803. PP'e.nont to the forogoing, by J. R Hockin, M.a!,

3u2

772 I'ALAU OK PELEW ISLANDS.

In tho Supplement to the Voyage of the Antelope an account is given of
the visit of the ships Panther and J'Jndearour, whi.ih were sent out there with
the intelligence of Prince Leo Boo's death. In tliis portion, too, is th.
account of Lieutenant Macluer'n residence in tho group. The whole of these
narratives place tho natives in a most aminblo light. But there is a dark sido
to the picture ; whother from the innate evil of tho uncultivated savage, or.
what is more probable, from the aggressions of foreign ships touching there,
their fame has been sullied by treachery. The Syren, whaler, Capt. Collin, was
nearly cui oif here, March 21, 18'23,on passing tho southernmost, island. They
came on board, 100 in number, apparently friendly ; but watching an oppor-
tunity they attacked the crew, and wore only ropulsed after desperate light-
ing, during which most of the crew, thirty-seven in number, were wounded,
and two officers killed.

Captain Ibargoitia remained under easy sail for five days, in 1801, off the
islands and gives as good an account of the natives, with whom he had con-
tinual communication, as does Captain Wilson; they most disinterestedly
brought off to him fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and various roots. Ho says that
Coror Island is the only one where you can anchor; but he was prevented
doing so by winds and currents.

The group extends for a distance of 40 leagues, in a North and South
direction; its greatest breadth is not more than 5 leagues; but taking into
account the surrounding reefs, this breadth would be doubled. It may be
separated into several minor groups, described as follows ;—

Kyangle Isles.— The northern limits of the group consist of four smaU
islands, the largest of which is called Kyangle, having a circumference of 4
mUes, in lat. 8° 8' N., long. 134° 50' E., or perhaps more correctly, 134" 35'
East' It was called Moore Isle by Captain Douglas, in 1788. The three
others are called Arayonzet, Carapellas, and KoracL The islands are sur-
rounded by a reef, whose diameter is 4^ miles North and South. Captain
Douglas, of the IpUgenia, aaw two other low or sandy isles at 8 miles West
of Moore (Kyangle) Island, which he caUs Good Look-out Islands, portions of
the reef which dry in Macluer's chart.

The Eeef to the northward of Kyangle is of a most dangerous character ;
the more so that there is some uncertainty as to its extent. On Dalrymple's
chart it does not exceed the Umits of the Kyangle group ; but from the
evident assertion of Captain Douglas, that it extends to lat. 8° 45', and that
from this it extended to the West further than the eye could reach, so that
Admiral Krusenstern has on his chart extended it to long. 134° 20', and
further as but little is known to the southward of this N.W. extreme,
he has 'continued the reef over all the space to Douglas's Good Look-out

Islands.

KoasoL— At 3 miles South from the Kyangle Islands is a small sandy

ount 18 given of
it out there with
rtion, too, is the
he whole of these
lere is a dark side
vatod savage, or,
)9 touching there,
, Capt. Collin, was
uosf. island. They
atching an oppor-
)r desperate light-
r, were wounded,

% in 1801, off the
svhom he had con-
ost dicinterestedly
aots. Uo says that
he was prevented

North and South
i; but taking into
ibled. It may be

Qsist of four small
circumference of 4
correctly, 134° 35'
1788. The three
le islands are sur-
d South. Captain
IS at 8 miles West
Islands, portions of

angerous character ;
.t. On Dalrymple's
roup ; but from the
lat. 8° 45', and that
could reach, so that
long. 134° 20', and
this N.W. extreme,
as's Good Look-out

ids is a small sandy

nAl?ELTnU.\r— COROR.

773

island, named Kossol, separated by a tliannol, jjrobably full of banks and
breakers, 10 miles broad, from tho North end of l?abolthiiap.

Babelthuap or liaubeWwitap (the upper soa, in Iho Polew laiignago) is tlio
largest of tho Tolow Islands. It is 9 l.-aguos long North and South. A hi^'li
mountain, from the summit of whicli Lieutenant Macluor could see tlio
wliolo group, is in its northern part, in lat. 7^ 40'. Its eastern o.xtromity,
accordiuf,' to Krusenstorn's, or rather Maducr's, charts, lies in lat. 7^ 41' N.,
long. 131" 58' E. ; and its northern point in lat. 7" i'.t' N., Ion"', l."!' 52' E.
But according to Captain Clieyne, commander of tho Naiad, thosL' longitudos
are 18' too far East. He made tho East end of Babelthuap to be in lat. 131 '
40' E.

It is ;or was) divided into several districts, of which Arthigall, Enmelagui,
and Emevings, are the most considerable. Three small islands, Arteck, Kat-
lou, and Oorohoo, lie near the North point of the island ; and an island of
considerable length North and South (with rocky islets along its East side)
lies on the S.E. side of the South point, from which it is separated by a very
narrow channel. The East side of Babelthuap is fronted by a barrier reef,
which commences at the South point of the above island, and about a mile
from the East point of Corror. The long detached reef, which forms New
Harbour, lies outside of this. The barrier trends along the coast in a N.E.
direction to lat. 7» 36' N., whore its distance from tho shore is about 5 miles ;
and from that to the northward to the eastern extremity, and in the same
direction, in almost a straight line to Kyangle, where it terminates ; but from
Kossol Island, which is 3 miles to the southward of the Kyangle Isles, it is
merely a sunken barrier, or bank of soundings.

Coror, or Corrora, is separated from Babelthuap, bearing South from it,
by a channel 2 miles broad.

Coror, on which Abba Thulle, the king, resides, is 5 miles in length
E.N.E. and W.8.W. ; and its gi-eatest breadth, which is near the N.E. end,
2 J miles. A long, narrow, rocky island lies close to thd South side of Coror,
and three others near its West point. The southoastf rnmost of the three is
named Malackan. It has a tolerably high peak, by which it can be distin-
guished when outside the reef. Between the rocky island above mentioned,
and the N E. part of Urukthapel, is a good harbour. The entrance to it is
through a narrow operang in the reef, or coral flat, which e.xtends from Uruk-
thapel to the South angle of the rocky island. The depth of water in tlio
channel is from 10 to 5 fathoms. A coral patch lies within the passage ;
and one or two others in the outer part of the harbour. The best anchorage
is close to the East side of Malackan, in 15 fathoms, where there is a small
run of excellent fresh water. To the eastward of the blufif East point of
Urukthapel, and fronting the passage to the above harbour, is a space nearly
5 miles in length N.E. and S.W., whore there is no reef, but merely a bank

--,, I'ALAU Oli TKLKW ISLANDS,

of soundingH, oxtcn.ling about :» nnlon from tho shoro, o,. which there in g.Hul
anchorage A ship may anchor in 13 fatho„>s with the folh.w.ng bear.ng.,
^vhore she will have plenty of room to get un.ler weigh with any wmd:-
Mulackan Teak, N.N.W. i W. ; tho passage through th. re.f earhng to
Malaekan harbour, N.W. .V N. ; and the East extreuu, <.f Dahelthuap, o
islands which lie near it, N. M i E. Inshore of this tho water deepens to 20
fathoms. This anchorage is in about lat. 7° 'JO' N.

The channel between the South end of Babolthuap and Corcr i« U miles
wide, and is navigable from sea. round tho East and North mdes o Coror.
to the King's village, near its western point, wiili a depth of from 10 to .„
fathoms in it; but on account of there being a reef, which .s nu e» m
length N.E. and S.W., lying to the eastward of Coror. fronting the entrance
and several coral patches within this reef, it is too intricate a passage for a
stranger to attempt. In Lieut McCluer's plan. 179:3 and 179-1, pubhshed by
the Admiralty, from which tlie islands are delineated on the charts, t^.ere ap-
pears to be good anchorage inside of this large reef, which lie calls New har-
bour ; but Malaekan harbour is the best, and the only one which should bo
resorted to by trading vessels.

Tho Island of Coror, although small, is the most important of the group,
through its being tho seat of government. Tho king and chiefs are most
friendly and hospitable to foreigners, particularly to the English, who will
receive every protection while within tho limits of their jurisdiction. Abba
ThuUe, the king, nominally claims sovereignty over tho whole group ; but it
is only by force of arms that he i.s able to uphold his supremacy. The in-
habitants of tho northern and eastern districts of Babolthuap do not acknow-
ledge his authority, and are often at war with Coror. Vessels trading
here should not dispose of fire-arms to any but the Coror people.-
(Cheyne).

Urukthapel is to the South of Coror. It is of a very irregular form. Its
greatest extent is 6 miles North and South. It is moderately elevated, very
rocky and barren, but covered with wood. The eastern shore is cliffy. From
its eastern high bluff patches of reef extend to the southward, with good
passages between, until about a mile to the southward of the North point oi
Errakong, where it becomes continuous, and following the same direction
terminates at the passage formed by it and the N.E. -islet above described
There is anchorage within this reef on the East side of Errakong but it
must be difficult to get out of with a N.E. wind. The N.W. side of Uruk-
thapel forms a bay, the shore of which is lined with small islets, and there
are also severai in a bay on its S.E. side. The passage between Uruk-
thapel and Errakong is half a mile wide. The South point of the former
is in about lat. 7" H' 30" N., long. ISl'^ 24' E. Urukthapel is not m-
habited.

EUllAKONa AND ANGAUll ISLANDS.

77a

liich there ih good
lowing bearingH,
itli (Uiy wind: —
i-f't^f loading to
f li(il)oltliuap, or
iter deepens to 20

;;;orrr is IJ miles
h sidoH of Coror,
of from 1(» to 2.)
ch is 10 miles in
nting tho entrance
to a passage for a
79 1, published by

charts, tlmre ap-
lie calls Now har-

1 which should bo

ant of the group,
id chiefs arc most
English, who will
urisdiction. Abba
hole group ; but it
promacy. The in-
lap do not acknow-
Vessels trading
e Coror people. —

rregular form. Its
atoly elevated, very
lore is clifly. From
thward, with good
' the North point of
tlio same direction
at above described,
if Errakong, but it
;r.W. side of Uruk-
lU islets, and there
age between TJruk-
point of the former
•ukthapol is not in-

Errakong lies to the South of Tlrukthnpel. Its South point is in lat. 7'
10' N., long. 134° 2.T E. The reef which surrounds the two islands on tho
East side forms to tho S.E. of tho first a very oxcellent port, whi.h has two
entrances, one to tho East, the other to the West. The latter is round tho
South end of Urukthapol, between it and Errakon« and some small islets ;
but as it is not more than half a mile broad, and is probably not well de-
s(;ribed, it cannot bo recommended to largo ships. Hut to mak'- u,) for
this, there are to tho East of tho island two other passages across the reef,
whi.Jimaybe preferabl- to it; tho first, in lat. 7- HJ', is three-quarters
of a milo br. \, the second, li miles to tho southward of it, is much
narrower thau the former, but Lieut. Maduer passed it in his vessel.

Orolong. a small island, not more than 2 miles in length, lies oU' the N.W.
point of Urukthapol. Macluor first anchored near this island, and then
steered to tho S.E., along tho coast of the latter island to reach Errakong
harbour. The island is in lat. 7 18' N., long. l;il" 19' E.

Pelelew, a pleasant and fertile island, lies 7.i miles Foulh of Errakong.
It is 8 miles long in a N.N.E, and S.S.W. direction. Between its North
extremity and Errakong, and within tho great reef, there lie, according to
Macluer's chart, several islands, one of which, named Akamobun. is sepa-
rated by a reef, across which is a passage not more than a quarter of a m.lo
broad, through which it is thought Macluor passed, as it is stated to bo a
good channel. At the South extremity of Pelelew, or Pililau, the reef
which surrounds the group on the West side commences; within its limits
arc several islands, as A>/o, hmrahmff, and f,nill,\ which appear to bo con-
nected with each other by reefs and shoals. The South extremity of Telo-
lew is in lat. 6" 58' N.. long. 133° 21' E.

Angaur is the south-westernmost island of the group. It low, and ex-
tends 3 or 4 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction. The channel wlu.h sop^i-
rates it from Telelew is 5 miles broad. It is safe, but there are no soundings
the two extremities of the islands being steep-to. Captain Ibargoit.a, who
beat through to the westward with a westerly wind, could find no bottom
even at a mile off the shore. He sent off a boat to the South end of tins
island to procure water, but it could not approach withi.i 2 cables lengths of
it on account of the shallowness and the surf. The natives attempted to
serve them, by bringing some off in their canoes by means of the casks,
which were carried half a mile into the woods ; but they brought but little,

and that not good. . w, w. j „f

Captain Ibargoitia, who calls this island Nkur, determined the latitude o
its S.W. point to be in 6" 53' 55" N., long. 131^ 31'.. Horsburgh observed
its long, as 134= 21' ; the mean may be tak.n as 134° 26i'. But a recent ac-
count states that by several measurements, by good chronometers, from Ma-
cao and Manila, that it ought to bo in 134° 0', so that, as elsewhere noticed,
the whole group has been placed nearly 20 too far East.

776 iJShANDy SOUTH OF THE CAROLINES.

Diioctly to tlio WoMtof the S.W. [loint of tlii« iMl.ind, ivt t!u» diHtimre t.f
half ft loagiKs Lioutoimnt Maduor found a hunk with 10 futhoniR Htttt<r ; and
in IHOG the Bftino (^ominiindor, in the Hhip MitfiyUs, found ft roof ext.>ndin>,'
half ft milo from this low Bandy point; but Captain HorHhurgh, whopaHsnl
closo to tho point in tho Anna in tho same year, did not boo it, so it was sup-
poBod not to fxist.

Ciiptaiu M(! Cli'lluu, whon iiassiiig around tho Houth ond of Angour, al
about 2 miloH distant, saw broaketH and a fow black rocks show occasionftlly
for throe-cpiarters of a milo off the South point, and also a fow for a good
half a milo farther. Lat. 6" .J.y N., long. IJH" 8 E.

Tho archipelagoos to tho southward of tho Caroline Islands, consisting of
the Salomon Islands, Now Ireland, New Britain, the Admiralty Islands, &c.,
are described in our South Pacific Directory ; but as the northern coast of
Now Guinea, although South of tho equator, may be considt^red as tho
southern limit of the North Tacific, that coast and the islands will be briefly
alluded to here.

Anachoretes Island (AnchoritoB Island) was discovered by Bougainville,
August 7, 1708. It is a flat island, about 3 leagues long, covered with trees,
and separated into several divisions, connected by reefs and sand-banks.
Lat. 0° 54' S., long. 14.">'' ao'. There is a great quantity of cocoa-nut trees
on tho island, and the soa-shore is covered with so groat a number of
liouses, that it must bo extromuly populous. Tho natives were fishing in
canoes off the island, and they appeared to bo happy and contented. At
3 leagues to tho West of it another low island was seen from the mast-
head ^Commerson Island). It is 5 leagues W. by N. from the northern-
most of the Anachoretes, and in lat. 0° 45' S., long. 145" 17'.— (Bougain-
ville, pp. 290-1).

Los Monjos (tho Monks). — Four small low islands, which extend nearly 5
miles in an East and West direction. Maurolle first saw them in 1781, and
determined thoir position to bo in lat. O*" 57' S., long, (corrected) 145° 41'.
Captain Hunter also saw them.

Boudi'im Island was named by Bougainville after his ship, Aug. 9, 1768.
It is low, and in lat 1° 26', long. 144^ 34' E.

VEchiquier (the Chess-Board), so named by Bougainville, consists of a
large collection of islets. D'Entrecasteaux placed upwards of thirty on his
chart, but states that it is probable that in the North part of it many were
not seen. They are only a series of low, flat islets, covered with wood. They

«■

lit tlui diHtiiiirC III
ithoiiiR wutur ; ami
a roof e.\ti>ii<lii)|,'
)urj5li, who paH8til
10 it, ao it was HUp-

nnd of An|j[our, a I

mIiow occasional ly

u fow for a good

anda, conHisting of

lirulty Islands, &c.,

northern coast of

considered as tho

mds will be briefly

1 by Bougainville,
covered with trees,
'a and sand-banks.
' of cocoa-nut trees
groat a number of
ves wero fishing in
ind contented. At
ion from the mast-
from the northern-
15" 17'.— (Bouguin-

ch extend nearly 6

them in 1781, and

corrected) Uo° 41'.

^hip, Aug. 9, 1768.

iville, consists of a
rds of thirty on his
rt of it many wero
)d with wood. They

NOllTlI COAST OF NKW (HJINKA. 777

all appear to bo oounectod by roofs. The South point is in lat. 1 Id ;i(l',
long. IH ;J'.

/ms Kremilitmn, or Iffrnufn, wore soon by Maurolhi at 8 leaguon distant.
Tlioy aro described by D'Entrocasteaux as being high in tho N.W. part,
and Hoeniod to leave considerable intervals, but, on n closer approach,
they torniinato in low lands, and aro enclosed in a voiy narrow belt of
sand, within which is a largo space of still water. They aro inhabited ;
tho natives camo off in canoes, and apparently wero friendly. Their po-
sition wiM per/evtli/ determined; tho N.E. islet is in lat. V 28' ;J0' 8., long.
146'' 7' 45".

3fa(/!/ and Duronr hlatulH. — Two small (lat islands, discovered by Carteret,
September 19th, 1767. According to D'Entrocasteaux the first is in hit.
1" 33' 40" 8., long. 14.r 12' 30", and the second in lat. 1' 46' 0' S., long.
142° 50". Carteret places thorn in lat. 1" 43' 21', long. \\',r 2' E.

Ti'i/rr fiilnnd is a discovery of Captain Bristow in 1817, and comraunicateil
by him to Mr. I'urdy. It is about (J or 7 miles in length, East and West,
and inhabited by a ferocious race of savages. Lat. 1' 45' S., long. 14U'
20' E.

NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

It will bo unnocoasary to enter into any general description of this extensive
island. Its features, as far as they interest tho mariner, will be found in the
ensuing description, which is chiefly derived from Admiral D'Urvillo. Our
extracts will be brief here, as its navigation has moro roferenco to the
Oriental Archipelago than this work.

DAMPIER STRAIT separates New Guinea from Now Britain, and is de-
scribed in our South Pacific Directory. Tho best channel through it is on
tho Now Guinea side, keeping the beach in sight, 6 or 7 miles distant.

Rochj Inland of Dampier's chart, or Loftiii Island of D'Urvillo, is an im-
mense cono of 3,000 or 4,000 feet in height, covered with verdure, with an
habitable belt on the sea-shore, without doubt occupied, as was announced
by several smokes. A largo hollow on its N.E. side still indicates the
situation of an ancient crater.

Long Mand is remarkable, as Dampier says, for two very projecting peaks,
one lying on the North and the other to the South of tho island, and which
D'Urville named Reaumur and Cerisy Peaks. The surface of the first is much
cut up, and very irregular, and appears to have been a volcano. Off its
western point a reef runs out.

Crown Island, also named by Dampier, from its " towering up with several
heads or tops, something resembling a crown," is about 7 miles to the N.W,
of Long Island. It is about 4 or 5 miles in circumference, and of a very

NOBTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

.,«.,«. ./>V...«^^'.*«VTt/l"ntl -,e roughly computod
further along tho North coast, i u ^^^^^ ^^^ „„, t,,„

by Oaptaiu K. L. Huuter to bo 13,000 loot lugB

explored. lyUrviUe's icol, lie" het.een C.j«.. »J«'

^.,™i* ««W""'"f*;NW about 24 ..lie. .part, the depth ot

:e:utr:f'.v^^^^^^^^^^

■Ci::r:tl...ar.edpro.outory,ll.s 10 or U »«» Korth of
Cape Duperie. ^^ j, f t^^ese points. It is of

crSolt. a httle larger aud.^^^^^^ „„. ,.. ,„

-^tS:s:r:atr;=r Xutnuhitaut. .„ .. the

r:.r.-a"C»- r;Zcdlug to the ««ard, the »^^^

sibly decreases in lieight. beautiful vegeta-

,l„n, and i» not more thau U mile, me ,„ „„a easy

,„d in positloe, and "''f^^ ^;:^:^^:-'Z:Z.. .crving i boacon. (or
,h»u these peak, planted on the •""»" j ^t 2 miles to the

„™„tninou. ,ith,„.^ of Bertrand U.nd, the .cs.ernmoa., i. . group

!lA.

»'UrviUe,thougbvery

mpier Strait, is very
I in lat 6° 16' S., long.
)08ed of the immenso
olabe Gulf, I'-W miles
re roughly computed
) interval has not been

33 between Capes Rignc
les apart, the depth of
)rre mountains become
rounded by a line of
)art a great number of

or 11 miles North of

f these points. It is of
mblcs more particularly

high.

certainly not less than
be summit, but enlarged
augh it appeared capable
ihabitants seen from the

If, and is limited on the
rked promontory, though
, westward, the coast sen-
he most beautiful vegeta-
nce. It is tolerably well
on more simple and easy
Ban, serving as beacons for
coast. At 2 miles to tho
ich smaller, but still very

of the coast, are eight iu
,0 the westward. They are
origin. Their height con-
d of New Guinea near them.

very low near the sea, is

westernmost, is a group ri

HUMBOLDT BAY. 779

several islands, lying very near the coast, Salmon, Farnguet, and Jhidniitinw
Idands. The two first are low, and covered with largo trees. Dudenuiine
lahmd only has a small hill on its western end, of 100 or 200 foot iu height,
wiiich may be di .tinguishod at a considerable distance among the surround-
ing low land.

At this part the belt of low land which linos the coast seems to form a
large valhsy between two chains of very high mountains. This configuration
would load to tho presumption tliat a considerable river would flow through
this valley. The coast of New Guinea, beyond these, otters nothing agree-
able in its aspect. At one part it rises iu ste(?p cliffs, and breakers seeming
to extend a mile off tho shore. Far in the interior tho summits of very high
mountains may bo seen. At 3 leagues in the interior Mount lujrien raises its
double peak above tho clouds. Tho Adrolabe was drifted within half a
league of the land, and from tho calm was obbged to anchor bei'oro a small
cove.

"While lying near Mount Eyries, fifteen canoes, with outriggers, but in-
elegant, each carrying from three to eight i.citives, put oif and surrounded
D'Urvillo's ship. There was not the slightest doubt of their hostile inten-
tions, and every one should, therefore, bo guarded against thoir treachery,
when off this coast. From this part of the coast the imposing summit of
Mount Bougaini:iJh becomes visible in the West, raising its head a consider-
able height above the surrounding mountains.

ILumholdt Bag, thus named by Captain D'Urville, lies to the West of this
mountain. It penetrates deeply into the coast, particularly to the 8.E., and
it was presumed that in it excellent anchorages might be found. Its opening
was about 4 miles iu width.

On one side the Cyclops Mountains, and on the other Mount Bougainville,
stand like gigantic sentinels, pointing out the entrnnce to Humboldt Bay to
the navigator at the distance of 20 leagues. The position of the entrance
was fixed as lat. 2° 23' S., long. H0« 44' E. To the West of Mount Cyclops
the coast descends with a gentle slope to tho beach, and has some landing
spots, with points more or less projecting.

Matierer Bay, which lies 14 leagues westward of Humboldt Bay, is rather
deeper than any preceding. To the West of this inlet a low point, covered
with trees, Point Brama, projects considerably to the N.W. ; and beyond the
coast aga''n recedes, forming WaMenaer Bay. In tho roar of these is a high
mountain (Mount BemistJ, situated in the interior. At 30 miles to the West
is another lofty chain to which D'Urville gave the name of Gauttier Mom-
tains, after the great French hydrogi-apher.

" In front of, and at 2 or 3 miles distance from, the low boiich in front of
the Gauttier Eango, several nmall ishmds followed each other. The largest,
Merat Island, is not more than 3 or 4 miles in circumference. At the dis-
tance wo ptisbod thoui, about 3 miles, th<y appeared to be covered with

■Mi

wmm

780

NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA.

dumps of cocoa-nut and other trees. At 20 miles I'urthor aro tlio ./rmo^
Islands. Tliey are three small islets. When at 12 miles from thorn tin y
appeared as a single island, moderately elevated and well woodod. The
chain o/' the Gauttior Mountains here terminates on the coast. Further td
the West the land of New Guinea is very low, and can hardly bo distin-
guished at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues. The great River Ambernoh or 7?,'-
ck'Msen, debou' hes here, forming a large delta, and sending a largo volume
of tuvbid water into the sea.

" I consider, then, that it is a positive fact that these waters proceed from
MUe considerable river, which discharges itself into the sea on this part of
iUm'mMt. Eougainviile observed tho same thing in this part, and from it
drew tho same deduction. Precisely in this part of New Guinea the land
forma a low point, l^oint D'Urville, very far advanced into the sea, and
everything tends to the belief that it is formed by the outlet of a consi-
^i:ihle 8trf!an(.

#omt DUrvili*? is very low a*id projecting, probably islands ; according
to tho observatifiis made in the Adrolabehy M. Jacquinot, it is inlat. 1" 24'
South, long. 137" 47' E. Stcpften Islaiuk are placed in lat. O'" 20' S., long.
l.'J7° .56' K., a doubtful position

GEEXWINK BAY is tho very extensive bay of which Point D'Urville

may be said to be the easternmost point. We shall not describe it here,

but shall terminate our notice of New Guinea with I'ort Uorei or Dory, or

the N.W. point of tho bay. Off its mouth are some very largo islands,

Jobie Idand, Mysory or Schouten Island, and others. The last named is vei-y

i mperfectly known.

Point Geclwink te rniinates this portion of tho coast, and here, perhaps, the
immense bay of the same name may be said to commence. West of this is
the extensive island of Jobie, and between its West end and Point Geelwiiik
is a smaller one, which nearly closes the passage, and was named by D'Ur-
ville, after one of his officers, Quoy Island.

Quay Island is 8 milos long, and moderately elevated, well wooded, and
pleasing in appearance. A channel of only '6 miloa in breadth separates
it from Point Geelwink, formed by a moderately high hill. A channel of
the same broadth separates it from the West end of Jobie, which descends in
a very gentle slope to the sea.

The Traitor's Idandn lie to the North of Jobie, and oil the East point o!'
Mysory, forming the North side of the Strait of Jobio. They aie small
and low.

Jobie Island, which lies in the opening of Geelwink Bay, according to
M. D'Urville's chart, is about 90 miles in length, lying nearly East and
West. The Astrolabe only sailed along its northern side. Tho laud on this
coast is high, steep, and covered wiih woods, without any oi)eniug8. High
mountains form the central ridge. This aspect is preserved in the most

ST. DAVID ISLANDS.

781

er are tlie Arimna
\ from them they
3II woodod. Tlio
oast. Further td
hardly bo distin-
r Amhernoh or J?."-
3g a larf;o volunio

ater8 proceed from
sea on this part of
part, and from it
V Guinea the land
into the sea, and
outlet of a consi-

island.s ; aceordinf?
>t, it is inlat. 1" 24'
lat. 0^ iJO' S., long.

;h Toint D'Urville
ot describe it here,
t Dorei or Dory, or
very large islands,
last named is very

1 liore, perhaps, tiio
ee. West of this is
and Point Geelwiulc
ras named by D'Ur-

d, well wooded, and
a breadth separati's

hill. A channel of
le, which descends in

f{ the East point of
ie. They ajro small

ik Bay, according to
iag nearly East ai\d

e. The land on this
any oiwuinge. Higli
reserved in the mo^t

Tiniform manner, and throughout its whole extent it did not appear to offer
a single cove or creek fit to receive a large ship. The mountains of Jobio
decrease in altitude on nearing its western extreme, and its West capo
is separated from Bultig by a channel miles in breadth.

BtiUiff or Hump Island is hilly, of an irregular form, and 10 or 12 miles
in length, but not more than 4 miles broad. Three rounded islets, called
the Three Sisters, lie near its East point, and before its West point are two
similar islets, named by D'Urville the Brothers. Long Island is tolerably
largo, and the land in general is but littlo elevated.

Port Dorei or Dory is situated immediately to the South of Oape Mamori,
which forms the westernmost and outer point of the entrance of the great
]5ay of Geelwink.

The harbour is entered by a channel 3 miles in length, formed on one side
by the peninsula of Mamori, and on the other by the islands of Mana-S^niari
and Masmapi, and two banks, which are awash. The harbour itself is not
more than half a mile deep, and 200 yards in breadth, with a regular depth
of 10} fathoms, sand and shells. Notwithstanding the confined extent, of
this baein, ships of any class may calculate on a safe anchorage, an.1 shel-
tered from the winds and swell from the offing. But as it is surroundod by
deep forests, and at the bottom of the harbour thore are many mud-banks,
often dry, a long stay here would doubtless be unhealthy for Europeans,
especially in the rainy season.

All the environs of the harbour, jiroperiy so called, are occupied by forests
in a state of nature, standing on a coralline soil, which rises with a very
gentle slope.

The inhabitants of Dorei are distributed iu four villages on the borders of
the 88* ; two are on the North side of the harbour, and the two others on the
Islands Maua-Souari and Masmapi. The total population of Dorei cannot
exceed 1,.500 souls, all of whom recognise the sovereignty of the Sultan of
Tidore.

The result of the observations of M. Jacquinot has placed the observatory
at Dorei in lat 0° 51' 43" S., long. 133'' .59' 52" E.

The following islands are but littlo known, and but vaguely placed on the
charts The few particulars which are given are derived (unless otherwise
stated) from our " Oriental Navigutor," 1809, pp. 634-— 041.

ST. DAVID ISLANDS, Pcdan, Onata, or Freewill Islands, — This group,
about which tluu-u m some confusion in the old charts, was seen in the
;/ arwick, East Tndiamaii, in February, 1861. They are represented as two
distinct islands, but it is probable that one of them is intended for the
A^ia Islands. They are very low, are four in number, and with an islet or
ruck between the jS-jrth and East islets. The smallest iu extent seems to be

782 ISLANDS NORTH OF NEAV GUINEA.

fT,« lni.he8t and all of them are well covered with cocoa-nut trees, like
the l-f''\2l atolls It is about 14 utiles long, and nearly c.rcular, and
Z::^:^^^^^ aw a .ile fro. the North and South sides
tt nTsrfar on the'otLs. It is well inhabited. The centre .s .n «W
lat. 0° 57' N., long. 134' 21' E.

CAETERET REEF was passed by Captain Cartoret in i^-^l;'"' j;}
1767 He passed between the reef and E>-enn„ Met to the b.W. of it, and
i<D<. iio i^c 0= "-a' N 1.14" 12' E. Itisi ssible that it

places it in the (?o«J«/«Z position, 2 o4 N., 134 1^ ii.. 1

may be the same aa the next.

Ift W.,t part there we rocks a very little above water; no gro-
,1 ino fathoms of Uao 3i mile, duo South of a very ooMp.cuous part of .t.
I am n 2"^ that' the reof *e.che. a good way to the oortUwa^
asTeawfL the masthead the appoaraac. of breal=«. ruanmg from the
; . eld to the aorth-eastward. From the centre of ^^<"^'^^ J^^^^^
Tave the aame of mm SIml. Lord North Island l,ea» N. 7o W., 40 m,l »^
Th b«t account .0 have of it is furnished by Captam Icdersea, of the
JJlln-, .ho came to it in Oct., ms to reooyer ik. cargo of tea

Xte^f r :c::« :r a^K-'^tand .S..V. diction, and S

.: .7 ! -f. l^rnadest imrt which is near its southern end. Its interior
r:;^;^ I Tatt entded by a narrow belt of dark heads of cor.
a?ainrwhich th! ocean swell dashes with great fury. In saihng round th
!e no break was seen through its margin, or foul ground along it excep
at L south-eastern point, where white or shallow water extended half a
at ts ««""^ «« J ^^^, ti,,re Pppeared to be a narr-ow opening

"?r tr^o A r with 2 or 3 fathoms over it, was discovered lying

';^^::::::^:^^'^^^r^^<^^ the z.., .... and N^th about

three-quarters of a mile from the extreme western part of the reef.

A no nchoragewasfound along the reef, the water being ocean deep
clot-to h CorlliaBerian remained off it under sail from October 4th to
November llth, her boats bringing tea from the IM, Raglan. During t^j.s
per oT the weather was generally unsettled, with heavy squalls from h
W N W . then calms, which often placed the vessel m a critical posvtion the
IrrenI being strong and irregular, sometimes setting at the rate of 2 knots
oT eastwL (or towards the reef*), and at other times as strong to the

. The C.rma Berian lying-to on the West side of the reef, where the /.«.. ««./«« -s
wrecked.

riH

itmtm

MAEIERE AND ANNA ISLANDS.

"8,1

a-nut trees, like
.rly c'.rciilar, and
and South sides,
leatre is in ahout

the Swallow, in
) B.W. of it, and
,B I ssible that it

iany'8 ship Helen,
erous shoal lyinp
id a dry sand, but
water ; no ground
picuous part of it.
to the northward,
running from the
e reef, to which I
, 75° W., 40 mih'S.
L Pedersen, of the
r the cargo of tea

r. direction, and 8
end. Its interior
ark heads of coral,
a sailing round the
nd along it, except
er extended half a
e a nan-ow opening
■as discovered lying
, and North about
)f the reef,
r being ocean deep
rom October 4th to
'.aglaji. During this
?y squalls from the
critical position, the
,t the rate of 2 knots
mes as strong to the

ere the I.ailtf Raglan was

westward. The month of October was more favourable than November ; in
the former the wind was steadier from the south-westward, and fewer calms ;
in the latter, thern were calms and baffling winds, and the squalls were
heavy and the current strong.

The tides ran strong over the reef, the flood to the eastward, the ebb to
the westward. The flood sometimes set with such force that tho men could
not keep their footing in one foot of water. The boats were enabled at times
to get across tho barrier at the SiS.E, part of the reef when the tide was
high, but great care had to be taken to avoid the sharp lieads of coral, having
10 to 20 fathoms water close to thorn.

In light airs or in bafiling winds a wide bertli should bo given to Tlelen
Eeef, for the currents in its vicinity are variable and strong, and have occa-
sioned the loss of many vessels on it, and others have but narrowly escaped
being wrecked.

The N.N.E. extreme is in about 3° 0' N., long. i;31" 52' E. ; tho S.S.W.
extreme in aboTit lat. 2° 16' N.. ing. 131° 12' E.

As before stated, it may bo identical with Carteret Eeef.

MARIEBE, or Warren Hastings Island, was first seen by tho East India
Company's ship Carnarvoti, Captain Hutchinson, September, 1861. It is
about 2 miles long from North to South, and a mile wide. Like other
atolls, it is low and well covered with cocoa-nut trees, espociaUy in the
northern part, but the middle and southern parts are higher. It is in-
habited by people resembling Malays, who are very poor, and can afi'ord
no refreshments.

Captain A. Mc Clellan passed it in July, 1855, and found a detached rock
oflf it, although it had been supposed to be clear all round. A reef stretches
from both ends of Mariere Island over a mile, with a rock a good mile off,
its N.N.E. side showing in the hollow of the sea as a round black islet, about
the size of a whale. Horsburgh expressly states that there is no danger
near this island. He places this rock in lat. 4° 19' 30" N., and long.
132° 28' 30' E.*

ANNA, or Current Island, was seen by the Carnarvon, Warwick, and
Princess Angmta, the China fleet returning in 1761. It is a very small,
low island, not more than half a milo in diameter, covered with trees, and
surrounded by breakers, which run out from its South end for two miles.
Its position may be taken, approximatively as 4° 39' N., long. 132° 4' E. It
is very dangerous in the night, and is inhabited.

• JTarjctH- Jitofrf, a wialer report, in lat. 4" 24' X., long. 130" 20' E., may bu derived
from an old chart, and refers to Mariero.

pr—

784 ISLANDS NORTH OF NEW GUINEA.

SANSORAL, or St. Andrew lalandH, have been placed T too far East
on the charts. Captain Maury says that they are in lat. 5= 20' N., long.

132° 20' E.

They were discovered by Padilla, in 1710, are two in number, and said to
be connected and surrounded by a reef which is steep-to, and extends but a
short distance ftom either island. Eodo-kopuei, the southernmost and largest,
is from 1 to 2 miles S.S.W. from Sansoral, the northernmost of the two.
They are smaU, low, flat, and thickly wooded ; and may be seen about 12
or 14 mUes oflf. There are about 200 inhabitants on the islan.ls, and these
occasionally visit the Palau in their c&noQi.— {Reynolds.)

TOBI, Lord North, or Neville Island, was seen by the ship Lord North, in
January, 1781, and was also seen in 1789 by the Raymond, and was caUed
Neville Island from a man on board. It is H mile long E.S.E. and
W.N.W., with a reef projecting from its East end, but is bold-to in other
directions. It is densely wooded, and has 200 inhabitants, who came ofl'
in their canoes, but they are bold, and not to bo trusted. Lat. 3" 8' N., long.
131° 8' E.

MMMHi

( 78r, )

1° too far East
5° 20' N., long.

iber, and said to
d extends but a
nost and largest,
lost of the two.
seen about 12
lamls, and these

) Lord North, in
and was called
)ng E.S.E. and
bold-to in other
9, -who came off
it. 3" 8' N., long.

CHAPTER XIII.

ISLANDS BETWEEN LATS. 10= AND 20° N., INCLUDING THE
MAHIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

CLIPPERTON ISLAND was discovered, in 1705, by a companion of
Dampier's, Captain Clipperton, who separated from him on the coast of
South America, to go to the Indies, in which passage he fell in with this rock
or island. Its position, as given, was not very far from the truth, but its
existence was doubted until recently.

Captain Sir Edward Belcher is the first who mado us acquainted with the
exact character of this rock. He made it May 8th, 1839, at the distance of
15 miles, at the dawn of day; and the sun's rays playing on its nearest face,
it had the appearance of a brig close hauled. " The name, Clipperton
Rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point at night, with a fair
wind, would almost inevitably have severely damaged or destroyed both ves-
sels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the northward, merely
assuming it to be a solitary rock."

Nothing in this name could lead a seaman to imagit.i a high rock, placed
on the southern edge of a coral lagoon island, 3 miles long North and South,
by the same East and "West.

Its description should stand thus: — A very dangerous, low, lagoon island,
destitute of trees, with a high rock on its southern edge, which may be mis-
taken for a sail.

This rock can be seen 15 miles. In thick weather the low coral belt,
which appears like sand, will not be distinguished until close to it. The
breakers on the eastern side do not afford sufficient warning for a vessel to
turn or change course. On the northern part of the belt the land is a little
raised, and appears to be clothed with something like grass.

There are two entrances, which at high water may be safe ; but at the
moment we passed, the surf was too heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks
bare. The high rock is situatod in lat. 10" 17' N., long. 109° 10' W., the
North Pacific. 3 E

786 TASaiON ISLAND OR ROOK,

(langora from it nortliorly extending 2 miles easterly, and the same north-
westerly. On the beach several large trees were observed, and an object,
which was thought to be part of a vessel, near the western opening.

In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one
hole of blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it to
the East side of the island. This literally constitutes two islands formed by
its two openings ; both are on the weather side of the island.

No living trees were seen, but the whole island was covered with gannet,
boobies, frigate pelican, and several kinds of tern, which had also been no-
ticed in great numbers during the previous week, at least 600 miles to the
eastward. From this an easterly current may be interred, as these birds
generaUy keep in its stream or tail course.*

No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur with 100 fathoms of line, but the
Starlin;, had soundings with less than 100 on the northern side.

Sharks, porpoises, and turtle, were observed together. The former an-
noyed us much by biting at our patent logs, for which one was taken
and made an example of. They were very large, and literally swarmed.
In all probability they were attracted by a shoal of file (halidesj, and
other small fish, which had been feeding off our copper since quitting the
Island of Cocos.

PASSION ISLAND or Rock.— The existence of this has been the subject
of much doubt, arising from the very contradictory statements as to its posi-
tion It is stated to have been discovered in the early part of the last cen-
tury by Captain Dubocage, in La Dicouverte, of Havre, on a Good Friday,
and from this circumstance it takes its name. This account is alluded to by
Le Barbinaise, who made a voyage to the South Seas in 1714. The position
stated is lat. 4° N., long. 106° W., but on Espinosa's chart it is given as lat.
1G° 54' N long. 109^ W. This great incongruity, however, is in some
measure set at rest by the following, by Lieutenant Woolridge, R.N. com-

manding H.M.S. Spy': —

.<0n December 2nd, 1847, observed an island bearing W.N.W., which,
thouKh (as laid down) would have been 60' distant, we could only beUeve to
be the Passion Rock. As we passed less than 30' to the West of it in July
last, and did not see it, and now passed 60' to the East of it, it is possible it
may be laid down 30' too far to the West. , ^o , „ nvr

<« Latitude and longitude, from bearings and supposed distance, 17 11 K.,
106° 21' W It appeared from aloft high, and peaked in several places."

• It does not follow, therefore, as a matter of course, as noticed by Bome writers, that
the appearance of birds denotes land to windward; they are more likely guided by the

tide.

the same north-
, and an object,
opening,
ad, there is one
k, attaching it to
slandH formed hy
1.

red with gannet,
lad also been no-
500 miles to the
1, as these birds

IS of line, but the
side.

The former an-
2h one was taken
literally swarmed,
lie (halistesj, and
since quitting the

IS been the subject
lents as to its posi-
rt of the last cen-
n a Good Friday,
nt is alluded to by
1714. The position
•t it is given as lat.
jwever, is in some
jlridge, E.N. com-

; W.N.W., which,
)uld only believe to
West of it in July
f it, it is possible it

distance, 17° ll'N.,
1 several places."

I by some writers, that
ro likely guided by the

( 7«7 )

REVTT.LA-aiOEDO TST.ANDR.

This is a small group to the southward of the Civlifomian peninsula, that
was discovered in one of the early Spanish voyages. Fornando do Orijalya,
in 1623, named the principal island Santo Tomns, now called Hocorro. Tho
name of the group is derived from Cnptt.iu Colnott, in 17<>3, who gave the
name of the Spanish Mexican Viceroy to them, in gratitude for tho kiiuln-ss
he had received from him during his captivity.— (Colnett, p. 116).

It was intended by the Spaniards to form an establishment on thorn, but
their natural character prevented this.

SOCOBBO or Santo Toman is about 8 leagues in length N.W. and S.E.,
and about 3 leagues in its greatest breadth. It may be said to consist of one
mountain (about 2,000 feet high), which may bo seen at tho distance r.f 20
leagues, and falls in gradual descent at all points on the South side. It in
in a great measure covered with brushwood, intermixed witli low prickly
pear trees ("cadi), and occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger
growth. Some few spots of the soil are black and barren, as if fire had
lately issued near it ; and the top of the high land at a distance has the
appearance of there having been formerly a volcano. The surface is of a
whitish colour, like that of tho pumice stone, which was found on the shore.
Neither fire nor smoke were, however, seen to issue from the island.

The vegetables found by Colnett' s people were considered as wholesome ;
they were beans, and the molie tree, whose leaves make a pleasant and
aromatic decoction. The prickly pear, an exceUent antiscorbutic, grew in
great abundance. Numerous land-birds, and plenty of sea-fowl, also nfforde.l
food. Fish is very abundant, but difRcult to take, on account of tho nume-
rous sharks. Water is, however, not to be found, though there are many
indications that some must exist, but they have not been discovered.

Captain Colnett considered the safest anchorage, from June to December,

to be between the South and S.W. points {CormcaUis Bay), opposite to two

white coral beaches, which are the first two in succession from the Soutli

point of the island toward the West. It is remarkable from the pinnaclo

rocks, which He close ofi" the West point of the bay. This bay is preferable

in the bad season, as the wind seldom blows more than two points to the

southward of East. In the good season, however, that is, from the latter

end of December tiU the beginning of June, the S.E. (or Braithwaite Bay),

is to be preferred ; the anchorage here is better and nearer to the cove, and

is the only good landing-place. It is readily known, being a stony beach

at the first inlet in the shore to tho eastward of the South point. All

other parts of the coast on the South side of the island are iron-bound,

which makes it difficiUt, if not impossible, to land, except in very fine

weather.

3 e2

7fH REVTLIAOIUEDO ISLANDS.

Sororro Ims boon corroctly l)ln«-ptl on tho cliartH l)y Captain Sir Edwav.!
H(.Ulu3r. llo found its Uititudo corroot ; but that it was 52 uiilcs East ..f its
propor poHitiou by fonufr obHcrvt'iH.

" It is lofty, making in Hrv..ral peaks, tiio higlH-st probably 'i,()00 ft. above
the 8oa. Tho oaHt^rn foast is very droary and forbidding.

" BraithmtlU'H Jim/ {\\\uvh was Bupposod to bo that ho namod provioiisly)
has rorky landing, the slior^'s of lava roulo, and nothing liko a boach.
Neither wood nor wator visible, although, from tho constant clouds whi<-h
hang over tho high peaks, there must bo a supply in some other point.
Lieut. Wood oxamiu.d tho western bay, wliich is spacious. Goats woro ob-
served, but no indications of wood or water visible, though, from the pre-
sence of animals, it is prol)ablG that they iiud water.

" It is diflicadt to p(Mietrate into tho interior, ov(!n for a few hundred feet,
owing to the abundance of tho cactus opuntia (prickly pear), which make
those who attempt it suffer f.n- their curiosity. One of the crew of the
Sulphir made himself ill from eating a large bean, wliich grow abundantly ;
but it might have been from indulging too freely, because some were cooked
and oaten without injury." Two of Coluott's people were affected in the

same way.
The landing-placo in Braithwaite Bay is in lat. 18° 43' 14" N., long. 110

54' 15" W.

St. Benedicto Island is the same which was called Nuhlaia (cloudy) by
Villalobos, in 1542. Colnett caUs it San Berto. It lies to tho N.N.E. of
Socorro, 30 mUes distant. It is about 6 mUes in length N.E. and S.W.,
and 2 or 3 in breadth, with a few rocks just appearing above water off
different parts of it. Its surface is uneven, and its appearance romantic, but
barren, with little or no vegetation. At the distance of 9 or 10 miles it
appears like two islands. On the West side is a small bay, but it was not
examined. Its North end is in lat. 19° 22' 40", long. 110° 44' W., according
to Colnett's chart.

Roca Partida lies 48 miles E.N.E. of Socorro. It is a dangerous barren
rock, lying N.N.W. and S.S.E. by compass, 50 or 60 fathoms long, and 25
or 30 fathoms broad. Both ends are 15 or 20 fathoms in height. The
N.W. end is forked ; tho 8.E. end is like a ragged haycock. The two bights
are separated by a ragged saddle, that rises 20 or 30 feet neai-ly perpendi-
cularly from tho sea. There is a depth of 35 fathoms at a boat's length off
all round ; at half a mile distance, 50 fathoms ; and then no bottom with
100 fathoms. It shows itself on every bearing, at all distances, like a sail
under a jury mast. There is a great quantity of fish, but the sharks prevent
them being taken. The only inhabitants of the rock are men-of-war hawks,
as at St. Benedicto. Lat. 19° 4' 30", long, (corrected) 112° 4' 0" W.

Santa Rosa or Clarion Island.— We have no early account of this island,
and its existence was doubted until it was seen in 1815, by Lieut. Ponafidiu,

iriMMMi

taiti Sir Edward
lailt'H East of itH

ly 'J.OOO ft. above

amt'd provioiiHly)
ig liko II bimcli.
ant doiids whicli
niuit otlior point.
GontH woro ol»-
^h, from the pre-

few hnndrod feet,
jar), which make
the crow of the
grow abundantly ;
some wore cooked
re affected in the

14" N., long. 110°

iblada (cloudy) by
to the N.N.E. of
L N.E. and S.W.,
g above water off
ance romantic, but
9 or 10 miles it
ly, but it was not
" 44' W., according

dangerous barren
lioms long, and 25
8 in height. The
!k. The two bights
3t neai'ly perpendi-
a boat's length off
m no bottom with
stances, like a sail
the sharks prevent
men-of-war hawks,
2° 4' 0" W.
ount of this island,
)y Lieut. Ponafidin,

SANTA Il()8A OK CLARION LSLANl).

"80

of the Russian Company's sliip Souvoro/, who cnlfulatod iIh poHltion uh Int.
IS" '2H' N., long. 115'' 6' W. Cuptiiiu FitzgoriiM, of tho Alert, saw it in ]w
passage from Callao to Han Bias, and placed it in lat. IH^ '2l\ long. 11^ 'M
WiiHt. 8ir Kdward Ikilclier pliut^s Sulphur Jiay on its South side, in lat. IH'
2(t' .■If')', long. Ill' 10' 19". Captain Fit/genild di>s(Tili(^s it ua boing liigli in
tho WoHt part (l,r)()() foot ac^cording to Sir E. 15ol(;hor), and about miles
long in an East and West dirnction. When it boars to the N.E. it shows in
three summits, which give it tho appearance of a group of \s\v.h. Tiie South
sido is (ilear and steep-to, and the sea boats strongly against it, e.\cei»t in one
part, towards tho middle, whore tho shore is sandy, and on which the captain
landed with some dilliculty. At loss than a mile off this part tho depth i.s
11 fathoms.

It ha.s also boon soon by an American (Captain Clark, of i\w ship Pearl),
who has modestly bestowed tho name of Clariun on it. It is also called
Cloud Inland on some charts, but this is evidently the name of Nublaihi Island
to tho eastward. It is also probably the same as JJed Maud, and FreshwaUr
Inland, placed near to Cloud Island.*

Sir E. Bolchor speaks thus of it :— Clarion Island diffei-s slightly in its
features from Socorro, excepting that a whitish coloured fresh-water lake
was found at tho beach, and birds wore moro numerous, viz., tho gannet,
frigate pelican, several varieties of boobies, of tern, ducks, and doves. The
plants were more luxuriant, tho cactus particidarly so, but not so unconrtoous
as at Socorro — it did not entirely stop tho way. No streams were noticed.

Fish were very numerous, and took the bait freely, but they broke the
hooks. Turtle were plentiful ; two were captured.

Sir Edward Belcher was not fortunate enough to And wood or whole-
some water in any way to justify a vessel seeking for those necessaries at
these islands. Possibly distress might be relieved, but nothing beyond.
lie sought for the several islands reported in tlie Socorro and Clarion groups,
and passed over tho position of Best's Island, which, if it existed within 10
miles, might have been seen ; he soon after sighted Clarion Island, not far
out of its position as given. Birds, principally gannet, together with broad
patches of weed, at times plontiful.f

Rocx CoKAL, Roca Fardero, New Island, Misipi Inland, New lialdayo Island,

* The positions assigned to most of thoso isliindu was also cxaminod by Lieut Calrstiy
Ap K. Jones, U.S.N., and no indication of laud discoverod. Lieut. Jones was of opinion
that all of them wore erroneous positions of Santa Kosa IsLiud, which, from all thrso
positions was in sight.

t CorPEii Island, a lonely spot, if it exists, requires verification, although it has hcen
several times reported. It has been pbiccd, from whaler report, in lat. 20° 26' N., long.
130° 54'. It is also shown as Coopers hlaiul, lat. 20° 6' N., long, i.'il" .5J' VV., and probably
■Aa Caliper i hlaud, in the sumo latitude and in similar Ea-t longitude.

'me!i^m:isS!Si^:!0i-^^s;^^^mm;wmm^'^m^^T^r:^:^r^':'r^

■■

.,,j, JOUNSTON ISLANDS.

1 <i of;,..,- Kti.kw froduimt Hhowors, Irignto Dirun, <x«.

;:r r:-" A-» '- - -: : - r :ru :;;;;

ininginuliou.

1840, as aiagouu .. , , On f1.n N W side are two low islots ;

a\v in milfis and 5 miles broud. Vn tuo in . >v . »""' »»

S.W. 10 miles, ana o m ^^, ^^^ ^^.^^^^ .^ ^^^^^^^

rrr: tr.r..: ,^:Jit . u . «^-^- -- --

lies deep. Lieutenant J. M. Brooto, of the U.S.

They were exammed m ^^^^^^ V^^^" ^^^ attained excellent

T;I«LJe shape of a ^ua«at.ral, CJ mile, ia a N. by E. 4 E. .ad
rl W 4 W a* la, aad 34 n,a.. W.N.W. 4 N. aad E S.B. 4 8- Oa
S. oy w-4 "•" ' »T fiA" w /tri.ft'i frf.m the lartrer, and diB-

it ape two irfete, the emallet being N. 56 E. (true) from tBe g ,
Lt 1 mile The larger islet is about halta mile lengRN.E. aad W.S.W.,
, , L ae eastern side) are the huts and whart of the Pacific Ouano
clply rfst C:ZL claim pe^s^on of it; a flagstaff marks its
n torn the distance. The smaUer islet, a mere saad-bank, is le s
!ZTo«^' o a mile in diameter. Breaker, extend to the North, neaily
rmne'-t*e W..t the reef approaches fte larger islet - *■- ■°^«. ^
h.nk s^;oand. the reef, extending in a S.E. direction 5 or 6 miles, « A 10

•"rwa^t:"^ three .u.rters of amilo S.S.E. from the hut, und.

iiMi

bocTi niimxincf'fl uk
W \V., liiit thu ri-
, wlu'thor US rt'l'iT-
s bei'U r(>iH)itod, or

Tnuf?]i tho rcportod
Hi.C'nptuiii Tr()Ili>I)<>,
H cluHtor of d()iil»tfi«l
,nd wore mot with,
1h, &c. Sir Edward
,1- from land, I am
)11 foundod, but tho
1 can hardly rest on

14, 1807, on board
Tho discovery and
Jliam Ilonry Smyth,
10 group is sometinn'S
orvuticms place tlioiu
described by Wilkes,
extending N.E. and

are two low islets ;
' 36" Wed, is covered
ind-bank. This reef

Brooke, of the U.S.
id obtained excellent
B preferred, place the
169° 39' 35" W. Vari-
LS a lagoon island, the

1 a N. by E. i E. and
and E.S.E. i S. On

>m the larger, and dis-
gE.N.E. and W.S.W.,
f of the Pacific Guano
t ; a flagstaff marks its
lere sand-bank, is less
nd to the North, nearly
• islet within a mile. A
n 5 or 6 miles, with 10

I.E. from the huts under

,#SS'W-'

■H

^.^.,. ^'Vi

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

1^ |28 |2.5

U 111.6

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN ^^Rr,

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

'^ ^\ ^^5<\

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical IVIicroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

SMYTH ISLANDS.

r-ji

the flagstaff on the larger island ; in running for it tlio flagstaff should be
brought to bear N. by W. i \V., though there is nothing to prevent its being
brought on any bearing between North and N.W.

The sea all round the islets is alive with lish of a superior quality ; and
birds are extremely numerous.*

SMYTH ISLANDS (or Oaspar Rico), a small group, are the subject of
some doubt as to their original discovery. On the early Spanish charts, an
island, Gmpar Rico, is placed between lat IS"" and 16 N., and long. 170'' E.
In 1625, the Dutch fleet, called the Nassau fleet, passed near to a low island,
•which they believed to be Oaspar Kico. In 1796, Don F. Quintano, in the
Spanish ship Maria, discovered a group of five small islands, connected by
rocky banks, which he believed to be San Bartolomeo, discovered by Saluzar,
in 1536.

Whether these several discoveries refer to the same or different spots is not
as yet determined ; but on Dec. 22, 1807, H.M.S. CornwaUin passed to the
northward of a group of islets and rocks extending 17 miles from N.N.AV.
to S.S.E., the centre of which was in lat. 14° 30' 30 " N., long. 168° 42' 15" E.,
from the observations of Lieut. William Henry Smyth, a name afterwards
deservedly celebrated as the surveyor of the Mediterranean, &c. The largest
of the islands received the name of Syhilla ; the southernmost Petrel ; the
others Fruitful, Danger, and Rahhit Islands. The northernmost part of the
rocky reef was named the Rocks of Scijlla.

Captain Kotxebue saw these islands March 17, 1817, and sailed along

• The following are doubtjul announcements which luivo been made of discoveries in thiii

vicinity : —

Wihon Island, lat. 19° 15' N., long. 166° 40' W.

Eaystrota lalmul, lat. 19° 6' N., long. 163° 33' W., and an island u degree furtht-r JFest.

Malloon'a or Malcones Island, lat. 19° 24' N., long. 165^ 18' W.

An Island, lat. 16° 30' N., long. 163* 50' W.

A s/wal, from whaler's report, in lat. 18° 26' N., long. 173° 24' W., and another shual on
the same parallel, and in long. 170° 30'.

Jane Island, lat. 16° 10' N., long. 173° 16' \V., does not exist,

The ships of the United States' Exploring Expedition passed over and near to the posi-
tions of many of those islands and shoa's in clear weather, and for many hundred miles on
thjir parallel, without seeing anything.

The following are also unknown : —

A shoal, from whaler's report, 13° 30' N., 170° 30' W., and island 13° 4' N. 16P" 20' W. ;
another island, in 13° 0' N., 165° 40' W. ; an island in 111° N., 163° 65 W., was not seen by
the Josephine, Capt. Stone.

Oaspar Island, 15° 0' N., 179° 20' E., was passed over by the U.S. E-xjiloring Expedition.

The same with San Fcdro Island, in 11° 17' N., 17!)' 0' W.

•

- )'wi"i, » rji. ' i ' )wyi,f! ' ., ' ii. i ' ! u I'- i

782

WAKES ISLAND.

their West side. His description entirely accords with that given by Lieut.
Smyth and Captain Quintano. His determination of their position is, for
the centre, lat. 14° 42' N., long. 169^ 3' 30' ; but ho concedes the difference,
21', between his own calculation and that of Lieutenant Smyth, to the latter
authority. They were also seen by the American brig bolivar, Feb. 9th,
1833, and then named Farnham Mand.

Lieut. Brooke, of the U.S. schooner Fenimore Cooper, examined the western
side in 1859 ; heavy weather prevented a thorough survey of the reef. The
Bide consists of a coral wall, with some clumps of rock scattered hero and
there. At the northern extremity there are some clumps of rocks partly
above water and partly awash, and to the southward a couple of sand-banks
a few feet above the water, apparently separated from the northern rocks
by a channel, the whole encircled by breakers which do not run out very
far, and have a boat entrance into the lagoon. The group extends about 9
miles N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; the eastern extent wag not ascertained. Tho
reef to the westward is very low and very bold,— nearly steep-to ; at the
distance of a mile from the breakers, bottom was just reached at 1,000
fathoms. There appear to bo some detached breakers about a mile north-
westward of the N.W. extremity. Lieut. Brooke made the position of tlio
main clump of rocks at the N.W. extremity in lat. 14^41' N., long. 16«^
56i' E.

WAKES ISLAND was discovered by the rrince William Henry in 1796,
and its position, &c., fixed by the U.S. Exploring Expedition in 1840. It
was seen by Captain Ed. Gardner in the whale ship Ikllotia in 1823. He
describes it as being 20 to 25 miles long, with a reef extending 2 miles from
the East end, with detached rocks to the West. It was well covered with
trees. Captain Sproule saw it in 1858 in the bark Maria.

This danger is described by Lieut. Wakes as a low island of triangular
form, 8 foet above the surface of the sea, covered by shrubs, with a small
reef around it. It has a large lagoon in the centre, filled with a variety of
fish, among which are some fine mullet. No fresh water, no palm nor cocoa-
nut trees. From appearances, the island is at times submerged, or the sea
makes a breach over it. Low water at 1'' on tho moon's last quarter. The
reef around is very small. Lat. 19° 10' 54" N., long. lOf," 31' 30".

The description of Captain Sproule agrees well with this ; so that there is
no doubt his island is identical with that surveyed by Lieutenant Wilkes.
Captain Sproule passed this locality repeatedly above and below tho parallel
of Wake Island, and gives evidence that all those islands and reefs marked
on the charts, under the names of Wake, Halcyon; and Heleion Islands, are
one and tho same. Captain Brown, of the missionary ship Morning Star,
also searched for Halcyon island without finding it.

It is thus very probable that Jlalcyon Idand, said by Kotzebue to hav»

given by Lieut.
position is, for
3 the difference,
'til, to the latter
Uvar, Feb. 9th,

ined the •western
f the reof. The
ttertd hero and
of rocks partly
[e of sand-banks
1 northern rocks
ot run out very
extends about 9
scertained. The
steep-to ; at the
Bached at 1,000
ut a mile north-
e position of the
■ N., long. 168^

Ilemy in 1796,
tion in 1840. It
10 in 1823. He
ling 2 miles from
ell covered with

,nd of triangular
ubs, with a small
with a variety of
} palm nor cocoa-
erged, or the sea
ist quarter. The
sr 30".

; so that there is
outenant Wilkes.
»elo\v the parallel
and reefs marked
ileion Islands, are
hip Morning titar,

[iotzebue to hav"

« •"

MARIANA OE LADRONE ISLANDS.

793

been discovered by an American captain, is the same as Wakes Island,
because Captain Wilkes passed by its assigned position without seeing it.
Krusenstern calls Wakes Island by the name of Halcyon, on this suppo-
sition.*

MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

The archipelago of the Urarianas or Ladronos is composed of a chain of
volcanic islands, which extend in a North and South direction for a space of
140 leagues. Magalhaons, tho first circumnavigator, discovered thorn ou
March 6th, 1521, but he only saw Tinian, Saypan, and Aguigan. His com-
panions in the voyage named them tho " Islands of the latteon sails" {Man
de las velas latinas), on account of the triangular form of tho sails carried by
their prahus. The Spaniards named them also Lndroncs, from the great
propensity to thieving evinced by the natives, although Father Gobien, who
wrote a history of tho archipelago, states that they hold this vice in detesta-
tion. Antonio Galvaom mentions them under the names of Los Jardines and
Loi Frazeras, or Pleasant Islands.

It was in 1668 that they received the name of Mariaxas, in honour of tho
widow of tho King of Spain, Philip IV., Mavia Anna of Austria. This
name has been continued to the present day, and has nearly absorbed all
others given previously. In 1564 or 1565, Andreas Miguel Lopez Legaspi
came hither, and proclaimed them to be the possession of tho crown of Spain,
but he stayed here but a very short time.

The advantage which these islands afforded to the Spaniards, by their situa-
tion on the grand track from Acapidco to Manila, and tho facility in pro-
curing fresh provisions and water here, soon induced them to take actual
possession of them. Under the pretext of converting the natives to tho
Christian religion, they founded, in 1668, in the sland of Guahan, a mission
under the direction of Padre de Sanvitores, which soon extended its influe ico
over the other inhabited islands. The mutual good understanding, however,

• An i.iliDid in IS)" 31' N, and 16G'' 3J' E., as announced in the Alta California, another
islmid from whaler report on the same parallel, being 2" further East, and also a /mnk in 20°
0' N., 107° 40' E., must refer to Wake Island.
Besides these the following doubtful is'ands may he enumerated: —

San Bartolomco Island; Manuel Hodrir/i/cz Hccf. — An island was discovered, in 1.53(5, bv
Torito Alonzo do Salnzar, called S. Bartolomeo, which is placed on Admiral Iflspinosa's
chart in lut. 15° 10' N., long 163° 43' E., without stating upon what authority. It was not
found on a search of 100 leagues on the parallel assigned to it by C'apt. Merlet of tho
French marine, in November, 18.51. In the memoir of Admiral Espinosa, tho Jlanuel
Rodriguez Reef is placed in lat. 11" 0' N., long. 141" 17' W. ; but these indications are so
vague that no dependence can be placed on their accuracy. It is suflicient here to mention
them.

• ^jw J.! ij.iijiJMaw.;> ! iK«,y.i ■

794 MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

did not last long between the missionaries and the natives, who after ^on.o
months had elapsed began to revolt against them. They attacked the ft.rt,
and killed several of the Spaniards, but European discipline and fire-arms
prevailed, and they were obliged to yield. The war of extermination and
the emigration to other islands so destroyed the population, that when
Dampier came hither in 1686, that is, eighteen years after the arrival of
Padre de Sanvitores, there were not more than 100 natives on the island.
Dampier says that the number had been 400, but the Spanish authors mag-
nify them into 40,000 and upwards, a great exaggeration. It was not until
1695 that all resistance was quelled, which proves that up to thi , date the
natives had not abandoned the hope of recovering their independence ; but
an epidemic finished the work of destruction, and when Anson vinited the
island of Tinian, in 1742, he found it entirely deserted. This island, which
once had a population of 30,000 men, was now only inhabited by wUd hogs

and cattle.

The reports of Sanvitores, also, confirm the estimates of the population.
Ho says, among other things, that during the first year of his labours he
baptized 13,000 people, and converted 20,000 ; but this must bo overrated.
The population of Guahan, according to Malospina, amounted to 4,000
people, but he does not say how many of these were of the primitive race.
According to Kotzebue, there were but a single couple in 1817, at the death
of whom the indigenes would become extinct. This is a sad but true picture
of the mode in which the Spaniards pacified the natives. The last-named
author also tells us that the Americans, who trade in peltry between the
N W. coast of America and China, had formed an establishment on the
islands of Saypan and Origan. For this purpose they had brought some
families of Sandwich islanders to cultivate the land and raise live stock ; but
as soon as the Spaniards heard of this, they sent thither a detachment of
soldiery to the infant colony, who destroyed the plantations, and carried
with them the Sandwich islanders as prisoners. M. Chamisso, the naturalist
in Kotzebue's expedition, has given a detailed account of this enterprise,
undertaken in 1810, by Captain Brown, of the American ship Derhj.

The most complete nautical account and chart of the archipelago was that
drawn up by M. de Ereycinet, who surveyed a portion of the southern part
of the group in the French corvettes V Uranie and La Physicieme, in 1819.*

* The accounts of the progress of discovery in this group will be found in H,»-rem,
decad 3 1 7 ot seq. ; Argensola, ConquisU de las Molucas, lib. i. ; Gonzales de Oriedo,
Hist "de'la« Indias; Go,mra, Hist. Gen. de las Indias ; Ultimo Viage al Estrecho do Ma-
salhaens p 206, &c.; Anson's Voyage Hound the World, by Richard Walter, book iii.,
chap 2 Byron's Voyage, in Hawkosworth's Collection, vol. i. p. 116, ct seq.; WuUis's
VovLc' ibid. vol. i. p. 279. et seq. ; Portlock's Voyage, p. 317 ; Gilbert's Voyage of the Char-
Je \m VV 6C-7 ; Voyage of Govcnior rhUlip to Botany Bay, 1789, p, 255 ObsaTa-

♦■^

Iio after conio
;kod the fort,
and fii-e-anns
■mination and
n, that when
the arrival of
m the island,
authors mag-
was not until
thi, date the
jendonco ; but
son vinited the
island, which
by wild hogs

le population,
his labours he

bo overrated,
mted to 4,000
primitive race.
J, at the death
ut true picture
ho last-named
•y between the
shment on the

brought some
live stock ; but

detachment of
18, and carried
), the naturalist
this enterprise,
) Derby.

selago was that
» southern part
mne, in 1819.*

found in Herrem,
'jonzales de Ociedo,
1 Estrecho de Ma-
Walter, book iii.,
ct seq. ; Wullis's
'^oyage of the Chav-
, p, 255 Obstr\ii-

MARIANA OIJ LADRONE ISLANDS.

7'Jo

The most recent accoimt of this remote (and usehsss) SpaiuHh colony, is
that given by Commander Don Eugenio Sanchez y Zayas, of the visit of the
Spanish corvette Narvaez, iu Dec. 1864 and Jan, 1865. Tliis was publishod
in the Anudrio do la Direccion Ilidrografla, a translation of which was pub-
lished by the French Depot de la Marine in 186.5-6. To this account we aro
indebted for many of the subsequent particulars, which are incorporated
with the remarks by Freycir.ot.

There has been much confusion in the names of the northern islets, and
this has been increased by the addition to the chart of an island which does
not exist. These discrepancies have been rectified by Commander Sanchez
y Zayas, as hereafter explained.

From the statistics gathered by Comm. Sanchez y Zayas there were 4,000
inhabitants in 1800, which number increased to 5,406 in 1818 ; to 8,60!) in
1849, and to 9,500 in 1856. But in the last-named year the small-pox broke
out in the archipelago, and in the course of that year carried off half tho
people, reducing the numbers to 4,556 souls.

In 1865 the population was reckoned as 5,610. of which 4,824 were on
Guajan, 335 on Rota, 18 on Tinian, and 435 on Saypan ; the other islands
being uninhabited.

The indigenous race called C/mmorros very much resemble the Tagals and
Visayos of the Philippines, but are perhaps more indolent,— a fault com-
pensated for by good qualities, of which sobriety and unselfishness may
claim notice. The black residents on Saypan are derived from the Carolines,
and are naturally active and industrious.

The primitive inhabitants of the archipelago have left some memorials of
their talent behind them, like those of the monuments on Easter Island, at
the opposite extreme of the Pacific Islands. In Tinian these structures are
remarkable. They are described in Lord Anson's Voyage, where a view is
given of one, and are mentioned by other and later visitors. Lieutenant
Mortimer says they consisted, in the state he saw them, of two ranges of
columns, either of stone or composition, and of a pyramidal form, 5 feet 4
inches broad at the base, and 14 feet high, having large semi-globes, 5 feet
10 inches in diameter, placed on the tops, with their flat surfaces upwards.
These singular structures, which are not all exactly alike, are supposed by
Freycinet to be the supports of a wooden ceiling to which the roofs of the

tions, &c., on a Voyage to TenerifFe, Tinian, &c., in the brig Mercury, commanded by C. II.
Cox, by Lieut. Gporge Mortimer, 1791, p. 64, et seq. ; Voyage de r Astrolabe et Zeke, tomo
V. pp. 202—336 : Freycinet's Voyage, Paris, 1826 ; Navigation et Hydrog., chap. xi. pp.
190—221 ; and the Voyage of the Spaniuh corvette Narvae:, by her commander D. E.
Sanchez y Zayas, Anuario de la Direccion de Ilidrografia, iii. 1865, and a trannlution of
the sumo by Lieutenant Mac-Dcrmott of tho French Navy, in tho Annulos Ilydrogra-
phiquts, 1866-7.

fit-

79C. MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS,

principal houses wore affixed. But this opinion is not participated in by
otlier authors, and a further examination points to the inference that they
are sepulchral monuments of the former inhabitants. There are numerous
similar remains on the other islands, especially at Asan, near Agana m
Guahan ; but hero they are smaller and constructed of stone.

CuMATE.-It rains very heavily at the Marianas, and it may bo affirmed
that there are no dry and rainy seasons-it rains in torrents every day.
The enormous evaporation of the IWUc is condensed in passmg over the
islands, so that with winds from every quarter ram is abundant at all hours
of the df o. ni^ht. The Nanaez was liero in December and Jmuary, the
period ol -ho so-called dry season, but rain was abundant every day, and
the natives were surprised at the weather being considered as wot.

Tho temperature is mild, and much cooler than at the I'hilippinos, but the
inhabitants declared that the heat in August and September nas almost
Buifocating. This must arise from tho interruption of the N.E. trade wmd,
which blows throughout the year with the exception of these two months,
during which tho effects of the S.W. monsoon apparently reaches to tho
Marianas. At this time there is generally a dead calm, for the monsoon
itself has not sufficient force to reach tho archipelago. It is therefore the
season of intense heat, rain, and storms, and frequently of terrible hur-
ricanes. , .

Admiral Krusenstorn makes the following observations on this subject :—
Tho Marianas lie in tho region of tho North tropic, and consequently in
that of the N.E. trade-winds. But this is not the prevalent wind. The
N E and S.W. monsoons, which are mot with in tho China Sea, on the eoasts
of China, and near tho Thilippine Islands, extend as I'ar as the Marianas,
and sometimes even beyond them ; so that the limits between tho monsoons
and the trade winds must be found somewhere near this archipelago, as is
explained in a subsequent page, in treating of the winds and currents.

The currents generally following the direction of the winds, it is probable
that it is also the case near the Marianas. But Captain Oolownin met with
a rapid current bearing to the N.E., although the wind blew from that
quarter ; and a Spanish officer affirms tiiat a similar current generally flows
in this part ; but this phenomenon may proceed from some local cause, and
is but an exception, and does not affect the general rule.

Between tho islands of Tinian and Aguijan a violent current was remarked
in tho Centurion, the direction of which was alternately S.B.E. and N.N.W.
This would prove tho existence of regular tides. The flood, which bore to
tho N.N.W., was more rapid than tho ebb, and lasted longer. Pasco-Thomas
also remarked, that during the syzygios the flood was 2 feet less than at the
quadratures, which is contrary to what usually occurs. Tho greatest rise
of water was 8 feet ; with S.W. winds the flood rose liighor than with other
winds.

GUAM.

7!)7

icipatod in by
snce that they
aro nnmoi'ous
leftr Agana in

ly bo affirmed
iits every day.
Bsing over the
[it at all hours
i Jinuary, the
3Vory day, and
wot.

ppinos, but the
jor 'vaa almost
,E. trade wind,
)8e two months,
reaches to tho
>r the monsoon
is therefore tho
jf terrible hur-

this subject : —
consequently iu
ent wind. Tho
Ba, on tho eoasta
18 the Marianas,
en the monsoons
rchipolago, as is
I currents.
3s, it is probable
ownin met with

blew from that
i generally flows

local cause, and

3nt was remarked
.E. and N.N.W.
d, which bore to
r. Pasco-Thomas
it less than at the
Tho greatest rise
r than with other

Ohsm-nllnm mi thr ll'inih, /,;/ M. >lf Frn/rind.— Wo romarkod that in April
and May tlio wind at tlio Island of Gunlian almost r.lwnys blow frosldy from
K.N.K. to E.S.E. It sprung up at break- of day, became very fresh towards
H or 10 o'clock, a.m., and was calm during tlio niglit. Tlio sky was most
generally clear ; sometimes it was overcast with thick clouds, which, driven
with great rapidity, gave place to showers and strong gusts.

Whon tho horizon was overcast to tho S.W., tho N.W., and AVest, witli
a Idack mass, not higli, tho sea began to break on tlio iun(>r banks at iho
Luis Harbour. It also occurred tliut, notwitlistniiding tlio continuance of
tho easterly winds, the S.W. and westerly swell render tho narrow passages
between these reefs impracticable. During our stay, storms, accompanied
by rain, were very frequent, but of short duration. Thunder was never
heard.

Tho monsoons are felt at the Marianas ; that from tho West takes place
from the middle of June to the middle of October. The wind, however, does
not blow violently but /.ir three months of the year. Hurricanes are rare,
but are not unknown; nor aro earthquakes, which, on the contrary, aro
tolerably frequent. Of tho first-mentioned scourges, there had not been one
for seven years prior to our visit.

According to Don Lu"3 de Torres, tho months of July to November are
the season of bad weather, storms, thunder, and rain ; and in December,
January, and February, the weather is variable ; March, April, May, and
Juno, are the finest; the breeze then comes from East and N.E. The
months when the winds blow strongest are August, September, October, and
November; they blow at these periods from N.W. to S.W. by W., some-
times from South and S.E., but in general rather between North and West
than from North itself.

GUAM,* Guajan, or Guahan, is the southernmost and principal of the
Marianas, inasmuch as it is tho seat of government, and is also tho largest
of them. Besides this, it is the only one inhabited to any extent. It is 27
miles in length, in a N.E. i N. and S.W. i S. direction, and of irregular
breadth, 10 miles where widest, and in some parts not more than 3 miles
broad. It is bordered throughout the greater part of its circuit with a chain
of reefs, which are uncovered at times. Excellent old Dampier thus do-
scribes the island :— " At a distance it appears flat and uneven, but coming
near it, you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much
the highest, is fenced with steep rocks, that oppose the violence of the sea,
which continually rages against it, being driven by the constant trade-wind,

• Guam is spelt in the Atlas Historiquo of Freycinot's Voyage, G«'am, the m being
equivalent to the diphthong ou. Most of the words usually spelt with this, the Italian u or
English 00, aa-e thus written in the excellent map iu question.

i >|f
'i

!^)

I!'
I

MARIANA OR LADUONE ISLANDS.

798

.na on that «i.lo there is no anehorin,. The Wo.t si.lo i. X^y^^^;^
full of small sandy bays, divided with as many rocky points. Th- so. tu.
Id L reddish. Vand indifferently fruitful, ^ho fruits are clneHy r.e
IMne-apples, water-melons, musk-melons, oranges and hmes. cocoa-nuts, and
u sort of fruit called by us bread-fruit. „, ^„„na

.. The cocoa-nut trees grow by the sea on the western side m great groves,
3 or 4 miles in lencth and 1 or 2 miles broad."

It trs surveyed by M. Duperrey. under the orders of Captain Freyc.net,
5n 1819. ne went round it in a boat ; and in the Atlas attached to the
VwaRe of V Vranie are some excellent and detailed plans

Point Ajayan is the 8.E. extremity of Guam, in lat. 13 4 N. long^
14r44' E To the West of it is Ajayan (Ahayan) Ba,, singularly obstructed
bv reefs and thus cannot be used. The South end of Guam is an uninter-
Ited s'andy beach fronted by reefs, having two or three smal islands on
TL /slan^. formerly called Lan^ono, and near to it Bak ^«'-^: -t-
off the S.W. point of Guam. It is a mile long, low and barren, with some
trees among which is a «V« cocoa-nut tree, which gives its name. It is
rrould by reefs, which, extending to the northward, foi.^ between i and
tWctual SW. point of Guam the small harbour of Memo, lit only for

^the'Cle at this part of Guam are much afflicted with leprosy and the
towns are full of lepers. The town of Merno is about U mile -uth-rd of
ulata Bay, and contains only 22 houses and 146 ^ -^ f-^^^;^ ;
bitants. The church was built in 1779. but was burnt in 18.8. It was
rid again in 1861. The only house that is habitable is that of the
padre. The whole of this part of Guam should be cautiously approached.
^ The Santa Eosa Shoal lies to the southward of Guam. Admiral Krusen-
J. mentions it with some doubt as to its existence, but of this here is no
question. Dampier saw it in 1686, on approaching the island. Thoy
lid over a rocky shoal, on which there was but 4 fathoms water, and
abundance of fish swimming about the rocks." The Spanish gal^oo
arrived from Acapulco while he lay at Guam ; but avoiding Dampier s ships,
sailed to the southward, and struck on this shoal, and was in great danger
ofbeiuglost there, for she struck off her rudder, -d could not get clear
till after three days' hard labour. It must be at a considerable distance off.
for after some hours' sail they sighted Guam. 8 leagues distant. On Can-
tva's chart it is made 20 leagues in extent. E.N.E^and ^-S-W.. and abon
half as broad. On Mr. Dalrymple's chart, a bank, discovered in 1740 by
otw , ilmade to be 10 miles to the S.W. of Guam, in lat. 13° ; but this
has no; since been found; an American vessel, among others, passed ve
the Bite in 1804, without finding bottom. This may be the same as that
InUoned by Dampier. but is probably not of the -ten <! — hy
Cantova. Its position may be about lat. 12° 30' N., long. 1 11 1. E.

- ■ "^Pl ' J'flgM'tf^ ' '** ' -"

rotty low, nnd
rin> soil of tlio
re cliiolly rico,
3Coa-nut8, and

a groat grovos,

tain Freycinet,
ittaclied to the

3° 14' N., long,
larly obstructed
n is an uninter-
mall islands on
li Island, extend
rron, with some
its name. It is
I between it and
riio, lit only for

leprosy, and the
ile southward of
and dirty inha-
n I8fi8. It was
le is that of the
ly approached.
Admiral Krusen-
f this there is no
, island. "Thoy
homs water, and
nish galleon, too,
' Dampier's ships,
s in great danger
ould not get clear
irable distance ofl',
distant. On Can-
r.S.W., and about
(vered in 1740 by

lat. 13° ; but this
thers, passed over
e the same as that
tent delineated by

111° 15' E.

UMATA BAY.

Umata Bay la 4 miles Nortli of Coros iHland at the S.W. end of Guam.
It is about 2,000 fot^t doop in an K.N.K. direction ; its two oxtromo points
are 1,700 foot apart. Tho South coast is mountainous from Cape Chahtn
Aniti to tlio bottom of tho bay, whoro tho Hirer Umata or Saloupa enters.
It is tho usual watoring-plato. Tho North coast is low, and the town stands
hero. Tho church, built at tho foot of the mountain, fronts tho eastern part
of the bay ; a small rivulot, tho t^itho Hirer, (lows between the church and
the governor's house. liehind tlio town tho hills rise in an amphitheatre,
and are neither high nor remarkable. On tho South side of tho bay, on tho
contrary, tho Ina^o Mount, opposite tlio governor's house, is remarkable ; and
further "West is another of 120 or I.'IO foot high, on tho summit of which is
the fort of N. 8. de la Soledad. Botwoon these two hills a rivulet of excel-
lent water flows, called the Chiordo.

Point Tougouhie really forms the South extremity of Umata Bay. It is low,
pointed, and guarded by a chain of reefs, which approaches Cape Chalau
Aniti within a cable's length. To tho North of tho bay i.s an isolated and
picturesque rock, on which Fort Sard. Angel is built. It is approached by
steps cut in the rock. About 100 fathoms from it, to the North, is another,
Fort San Jose. A ruined battery at the bottom cl tho bay opposite the
church is called N. S. del Carmen. Forts San Jose and N. S. do la Soledad
are plainly discernible by their whiteness. Umata Bay is perfectly shel-
tered from North and South round by East ; but in tho season of westerly
winds, or from June to September, it is imprudent, or \ '-haps impossible, to
remain here, on account of the heavy sea sent in.

Tho anchorage is with Fort Sant. Angel bearing N.N.E. i E. and Fort
N. S. de Soledad S. by E. i E. In tho mouth of the bay is 7 fathoms. Good
water may be got from tho Chioreto rivulet.

Umata was destroyed by an earthquake on Feb. 25th, 1849, as shown by
stone inscriptions on the ruins of the governor's house and tho church ; and
when the Narvaez came here in 1864-6 it was found to be a wretched place,
with about a dozen Indian huts. Although the fortifications still looked
imposing on paper, they have not a single gun.

The coast trends to N.W. :t N. 3 miles from Umata Bay to Point Facpi,
in 13° 19' 50" N., long. 144° 37' E., forming several sinuosities in the space,
the deepest of which is Cetti Bay, as large as that of Umata. Point Facpi is
remarkable for being pointed, projecting, and terminating in an isolated
rock, joined to the shore by breakers, uncovered at low wate". Thence to
Point Oroti, the West point of the peninsula of the same name, the coast
presents a bay of 6 miles opening and 2 miles deep, in which are several
coves and islets. The town of Agat is at the bottom of this bay. Lauding
is impracticable on the coast here, but the land appears to be very fertile
and pleasant.

Agat is now one of the most important places next to Agaiia. It con-

^ - v atv r vcs si ^ ^r im rr '

snfi

MAllIANA on lADHONE ISLANDS.

, Iiurcli, and a Htoiir liouso fur tho \nv\YO. T>

tains r,f. nntivo 1,..«b.-s, a i.,or . Ituirl., aiul a Hton- -u.uho u.r .... r-- ^''
11,0 S W of A^Mt, 'i mil.". .liHtant is J/.m/..» or J/.^«n,r, hlnml, at tho W.st
oxtn^tnitv of a roof BtrotchinB two-third, of a ...il. olV ^''"'^^"^ ^-;"
Asnt to Orot.'. Point th- dist.nco is .•..i milos to N. W. Th- S.^V . fuco of tho
OrofA iH.ninsulM is fornioil by a clifr, apparently stcop-to.

Port San Lni« D'Apra-Fr-.u I'ohd (h-oU to tho North, and near to
,vhich p<.int is a snmll island, tho const trends first E. by S., thon b.L. by 8.
to tho villago of Apra ; thonoo it turns to tho E. and N., formmg a argo
i„,lontation noarly in tho shape of a V, tho op.ning of which is partially
covorod by a long and narrow island, a mass of coral, Cahras or Apnpa hland,
and nun.oroiis reefs. The bay is very oxt.ai.sivo and safe, but has a groat
many banks, rocks, and islets. Tho North sido is still further contracted by
tho continuation of Apra Island in tho form of a lino of roefs. tliB Lu.nnau
r.e.fx, and tho Cuklan li.rf^, which como within the third of a m.lo of Orotc,
Island, leaving a very d.ep channel, the usual ontrau.o. The wholo of the
northern peninsula is madreporic, and cannot be traversed, on account of
the prodigious number of rocks and precipices vhi-h cover it. At tho
isthmus connecting it is the village of Apra, with a rude landing-place. In
tho centre of the basin is a rock level with the water, on which thojortf
Sta. Cnr. is built. It is in lat. 13o 2o' 4:>-3" N., long. 1.4° 39' 4r.' E. The
anchorage usually occupied by ships is to tho North of this, and is a basm
surrounded by coral patches of 2 or 3 ft. beneath the surface. The channels
leading to it are frequently nari-ow, tho last before entering tho basin not
more than 120 yards wido. Tho banks are very r.teep-to. and may bo ap-
preached almost to touching. The depth in tho anchoring ground is from
4 to 14 fathoms muddy bottom. _

Tho distance between Apapa Island and Capo Orot6 is 2J miles in a
W S W. direction ; but a coral bank, which extends off Apapa Island
towards the West, contracts tho passage to one-half tho width, which,
besides this, is made still more difhcult by a shoal lying precisely in tho
laiddle of the passage. A vessel, richly freighted from Acapulco, had struck
on it a short timo before the arrival of Captain Kotzebue. But as there is
a good passage on either sido of this shoal, half a mile in breadth, this
entrance would be scarcely dangerous, if care be taken to mark its two ex-
tremities with buoys or flags. The depth in tho passage to the N.E. of tho
bank not being more than 5i fathoms, coral bottom. Captain Kotzebuo ad-
vises ships to pass by the channel S.W. of the bank, and to keep as close as
possible on the Orot6 side, where the depth of water is sufficient for the
largest ships. After passing beyond the bank a basin is entered, where
anchora<-e may be taken if circumstances demand it, but as the water in it
8 of a very great depth, and the bottom is bad, it would bo better, if tho
wind and tides allow, to keep on the course to the inner part of the harbour,
whore you may anchor at the distance of a quarter of a mile oil' tho small

l»o i)ft<lr<* To
^ at the W.st
liiiiDitr. From
W. fllfiO of tlin

nnd near to
boil S.E. by H.
rraing a largo
cli is partially
r Apnpa Island,
(lit has a groat
r contracted by
^, the Luminan
a milo of Oroto

whole of tlio
, on account of
■or it. At the
iling-iilaco. In
lich the Fort of
3'J' 4.'i " E. The
, and is a basin

Tho channels

; tho basin not

nd may bo a.\>-

ground is from

8 2J miles in a
: Apapa Island
) width, which,
precisely in tho
luleo, had struck
But as thoi-e is
in breadth, this
lark its two ex-
the N.E. of the
in Kotzebuo ad-
) keep as close as
sufficient for the

1 entered, where
IS the water in it
bo better, if tho
't of the harbour,
lilo oil' tho small

aoaSa.

801

iHland of Santa Cruz in 15 fathoms. At tho period of Kotzobuc'.'* visit, in
1817, there was a battery of throe six-pounders on tluH island. .

From the entrance of tho port to the Inland of Santa (^ruz tho distance is
2 miles ; it would perhaps bo dangerous to attempt to beat in or out against
a contrary wind, as Kotzebue did ; it would he more prudent to wait for tho
"West wind, which springs up every morning at daybreak, and to tow
through the narrowest part of tho passage. A small river falls into tho
harbour at J of a mile from Santa Cruz Island, and this is the water-
ing place ; but the boats ought to be sent at high water, because at other
times it would be difficult to reach the mouth of tho river. The casks are
filled at low water, and you wait for high water to get off* again.

The shores of the Bay of Apra are now depopulate d, and tho villogos of
Apra at tho head of the bay, of Ajayan in the South part of the island,
Tarafofo on the East coast, and Ilic near to it, disappeared during the epi-
demic of 1859. There was only one medico in the whole archipelago, and
tho small-pox ran its course, and in many cases left not a ninglo survivor.
Where Apra stood there is not a hut left to show whore it was.

Agat, before mentioned, is at present tho place next in import mce to
Agaiia ; it contains 36 native houses and a poor church. The village stands
at the commencement of the Oroto peninsula, at tho head <•' a opou bay 6
miles wide, betwe'^n Orott') and Faopi Points. There are two or thr o rocKy
islets on the luui iu front of tho place, so that landing is difficult an I water-
ing vrry inconvenient. Soumaye, on the West side of the beach at Apra
Harbour, is the place chiefly resorted to by the vessels lying here. It has
29 decent houses, and the people are more obliging here than elsewhere. It
is due West of the Fort Sta. Cruz.

Leaving San Luis, the coast runs to tho E.N.E., and then North, to Point
Acahi-Fanahi, a perpendicular rock, near to which lies the small island of
Oapan. The reefs from Apra Island reach to the latter. A mile and a half
from Point Acahi-Fanahi is Point Adeloup, better known to the inhabitants
as Punta del Diablo, on account of the extreme rapidity of the currents, which
make it very difficult to be doubled. A sandy beach commences imme-
diately after Point del Diablo, which trends to the East and North, forming
the Bay of Agana, in the middle of which is the small town of Agaiia, the
capital of the archipelago. Aloupan or Ahtung Island forms the N.E. ex-
tremity of this bay ; it nearly touches Point Apurguan or Apuequan, and
makes apparently a secure anchorage, but it is too shallow except for small
boats.

AOANA contains the principal part of the inhabitants of the Marianas.
It bears the lofty title of the City of S. Ignacio de Agana, but is a small town
of 3,500 inhabitants. The greater part of the houses are but poor Indian
cabins, thatched with cocoa-nut leaves, but there are a few stone houses for
the better classes. The chief buildings are the governor's house, the artil<
Mrth Pacific. 3 F

802 MAEIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

lory magazine, tho church, and the college. The last was founded in 1673.
the first establishment in tho archipelago. Tho streets are wido, clean, and
regular. A small but clear stream traverses the city, and is crossed by two
stone bridges, and the appearance of tho place, with its rich vegetation, is
pleasant. But tho population is lifeless and apathetio. A large portion of
tho half-breed Indians ore copper-coloured, with extremely light hair,-a
feature which has arisen from tho intercourse of the American and English
whalers. Prior to the opening of tho Japanese ports they frequently camo
here. Their visits are now rare.

The town is built on tho sea-shore, but in a most inconvenient position.
There is not even anchorage before it, for the coral bottom renders a stay
impossible, and to be off and on is attended with much hazard. This is tho
only mod© of caUing here, unless, which is better, the vessel proceeds to San
Luis de Apra.* There is a good road between the two places, the only one
on the island, but the distance, a league, is too far to walk in this climate.

Tho coast from Apuequan Point to Point Twmn, is of steep rocks, and
all the detached points honce to the northward of the island are absolutely
alike. Two miles and a half to the N.E. of Point de los Amantes is Tumun
Bay. It appears to be filled with reefs, but there are several passages
through it, where boats can reach tho shore, and land without difficulty.
Towards the East extremity of tho bay, near its middle, and to the South of
the village of Giiaton, a cross has been erected to the memory of Padre San-
vitores, the martyr of the Mai-ianas, who was killed on this point by a native
chief, while he was baptizing a child.

From Point de los Amantes to Point Nigo the coast trends N.N.E. ; it is
barren and uninhabited. Above this latter point is the exposed anchorage

of Falcone.

Point Ritidian is the N.W. point of Guam ; it is in lat. 12° 38' 54", long.
144° 51' 58" E. A short distance inland tho perpendicular hills form,
scarcely without intei-ruption, the circuit of tho island on tho East side.
The coral reefs trend to the S.E. to Point Tagua, forming the shore. To tho
East of this the land trends East a mile to Point Patag, the N.E. point of

the island.

The oastom coast of the island, as far as Tarafofo Harbour, offers no
shelter to the navigator. It therefore ought to be avoided during the
eastern monsoon. Tho only openings are Pago ITarbour, in lat. 24° 30', ac-
cessible only fo) boats, and Ilic Bag, 2 miles to tho southward, and equally
unimportant.

• An instance of the dangerous nature of Agana Bay was afforded by tlio wreck of tho
British ship Intoicihk, Jan. T., 18uG. Hho camo in without a pilot, and insisted on leaving
next day. With some assistance she got out, hut was immediately dashed to pieces on tho
rocks to West of the entraace ; tho crew were saved with difficulty.

founded in 1673.
9 ■wido, clean, and
is crossed by two
:ich vegetation, is
V large portion of
ely liglit hair, — a
rican and Englisli
y frequently camo

invcnient position,
am renders a stay
zard. This is the
lel proceeds to San
laces, the only ono
: in this climate,
f steep rocks, and
and are absolutely
t Amantes is Tumun
e several passages
without difficulty,
md to the South of
lory of Padre San-
is point by a native

ends N.N.E. ; it is
exposed anchorage

t. 12° 38' 54", long,
dicular hills form,
on the East side,
the shore. To tho
, the N.E. point of

Harbour, offers no
avoided during the
, in lat. 24° 30', ac-
hward, and equally

led by tlio wreck of tho
, and insisted on leaving
■ dashed to pietcs on the

ROTA ISLAND. 803

Port Tarafofo is formed of two small, deep bays, tho first of which, Tara-
fofo, is open to the East, in which direction it is lialf a milo long, and 300
yards wide. Tho other is smaller, and is called Paifjwuc Cove. The T,tr<rfofo
River, the most considerable in Guam, enters the head of the bay. Madre-
poric hills, very steep, descend on both sides of the harbour to the water.
That of Mahilouc, on the North side, is celebrated in the liistory of tho
country. Tarafofo is tho only harbour, next to Snn Luis, which will receive
vessels at all seasons of the year. There are no rocks iu it, nor is thoro any
danger. A point at the liead of the bay, on the South end of tho sandy
beach, is in lat. 13° 18' 9" N., long. 144° J6' 14".

From Tarafofo to Vlomnia or Rounlodgna Bay the land is low, with sandy
beaches and rocky points. The bay is only fit for small boats. Y»nrai,m
Bay is a quarter of a milo wide in tho opening, and half a milo deep. It is
open from East to South. During westerly winds a vessel would be per-
fectly safe in it, but not with the opposite. Tho village of Ynarajan is on
its South side. It has 126 inhabitants, a church, and house for the priest.
Point Goal, on tho North side of tho entrance, is in lat. 13° 16' 30" N. long.
144° 45' 18" E. '

Agfayan Bay is three-quarters of a mile from Ynarajan Bay, and is smaller
than that. It may have good anchorage for less than 15 or 20 feet. Its
mouth is to E.N.E. ; at the bottom is a small brook, where boats can readily
procure water.

Ajayan Point, the S.E. point of Guam, is iu lat. 13° 14' 0" N., long. 144°
44' 0" E., and has been before mentioned.

ROTA ISLAND {Zarpanc or Sarjxm) called Zuta by tho present inhabit-
ants, lies N.E. J N. 10 leagues from the North end of Guam. Its dimen-
sions are 12 miles from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W., its breadth 5i miles. It
is hilly in its East and North portions, particularly so in tho centre, wliere it
is about 800 feet high, but becomes lower, in the form of an amphitlioatre,
to the S.W., to a low and sandy isthmus, where tho villages of Sosanhu/o or
Sossan Hagno and Sosanjaya or Sossan Ilaya are built. To the S.W. of this
isthmus is the S.W. point, called Taipingon Point, a hill terminating iu a
level and very regular plateau.

The S.E. side of tho island is tolerably high and perpendicular on the sea-
shore, presenting thus a straight wall, and at its angles vertical fissures like
the embrasures of a fort. In other pa- Js tho land descends gradually to tlio
sea, terminating in long and low points. Its N.W. coast and the S.E, of
the isthmus are bestrewed with numerous * rocks, on which the sea break.s
more or less, according to tho direction of the wind. Thjo portion of tlio
island not inhabited is so encumbered with Pushes (on the North side only
are some cocoa-nut trees) lliat it is diflicult to penetrate. Tliree wells furnish
water to the people. Two of them are artificial, and tlio water is detestable •

;) I- 2

^•=*'waffaw)K3 M w j > E4i nng ^ "ii«! ii >aiwg''yf^awrr^-a<t«^^

ftOi MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS.

a tliird, which is naturftl, affords better, though it is brackish. On the East
coast, a niilo from the village, there is a rivulet of very good water.
Captain Sanchez y Zayas gives the following remarks on Rota :-
The two villages above mentioned are more properly two streets which,
collectively, are called Rota. They consist of seventy-nine huts of leaves and
bamboos, a small hermitage called a church, a house for the padre, and a
Bort of hovel which they call the royal house. The priest is the only
European, and there are 335 inhabitants. There is anchorage opposite to
either village. The streets are built on the sandy isthmus, which is so low
that the sea threatens to break over it in bad weather. The peoj lo then take
refuge in a cavern near Sosanjaya. This cavern is exceedingly curious,
abounding in crystals, and of unknown but great extent. It is stated that
there is an extinct crater on the summit of the island, but it must be of great
antiquity, for the trees cover it luxuriantly. On the flanks of the mountain
there are scattered a great number of ancient stone monuments, apparently
sepulchral, and belonging to an age anterior to the Chamorros or last m-
habitants.

The anchorage of Sosanlago to the N.W. of the sandy isthmus is very bad.
There is but a small space for anchorage on the reef, and the bottom is
rocky, besides which the depth is most uneven. The Narmez was quite
brought up to shoal water, and the anchor dropped in a hole 30 fathoms
deep. The ground all around the island is of coral, which will explain

this.

The roadstead of Somnjaya, on the opposite side of the isthmus, is as bad
as the other, with this distinction, that here the coast is rocky and there is
no landing. Although the Narvaet was here protected from the N.E. wind
and swell, yet to land, the boats had to pull around Point Taipingon for 3
miles to get to the village. Captain Sanchez y Zayas thinks that it is the
worst in the Marianas.

The only refreshments to bo got here are poultry, bananas, and oranges,
which the people will exchange for useful things, such as cloth, nails, or
v.tensil8, in preference to money. Water is scarce, bad, and difficult to
embark.*

Aguijan Island (or Agrigan Island).— A.t 42 miles N.N.E. of Rota is the
small island of Aguijan. It is not more than a league in its greatest dia-
meter. In its North part are high, perpendicular, and nearly naked rocks,
but crowned with a thick wood. At a distance this island appears parched

• KimbaU Islaiirff.— In 1842 Captain Kimball reported (in the San f'rancisco Herald)
that he had seen a group of small islands in W 25' N., long. U^ 10' E., or 200 miles east-
•ward of Rota. Nothing more is known of them, and they may bo placed as very
doubtful.

, On the East
ieater.
[)ta : —

streets which,
ts of leaves and
J padre, and a
st is the only
ige opposite to
vhich is 80 low
leoj 10 then take
dingly curious,
i is stated that
nust he of great
if the mountain
mts, apparently
rros or last in-

mus is very bad.
i the bottom is
rvaez was quite
hole 30 fathoms
ich will explain

thmuB, is as bad
sky and there is
L the N.E. wind
Taipingon for 3
iks that it is the

Eis, and oranges,
s cloth, nails, or
, and difficult to

E. of Eota is the
its greatest dia-

irly naked rocks,
appears parched

,n P'rancisco Herald)
E., or 200 miles eaet-
y be placed a» very

TINIAN ISLAND. 80.->

and barren, but this is not so when closer. At about three-quarters of a milo
to the S.W. of Aguijan there are three rutks, small and porpoudi. ulur.
Between them and the island there is a passage for the largest ship. Tho
island IS uninhabited. It is said that tho inhabitants <,f Tinian formerly
carried some goats to Aguijan ; they may have multipli.^d greatly, for it i«
but little frequented. Tho only points fit for landing uro on the West and
N.W. sides. They are very small creeks, lined with sandy beaclios. Its
centre is in lat. 14° 53' 30", long. 145° 30' 0" E.

TINIAN, or Mom Vista, is separated from Aguijan by a channel 6 miles
broad. It has been celebrated for its fertility and tho prodigious quantity of
cattle. It has now a population of 18 ! It is 9 miles in extent in a North
and South direction, and 4i miles broad. Anmn Road, which is cm the western
side of tho island, close to its South point, being open, and the bottom very
bad, It cannot be recommended as an anchorage, particularly between the
Tionths of June and October. Lord Ans(m anchored here, August 27, 1742
in 22 fathoms, on a bottom of hard sand and coral ; at this position the tJo
extremes of the island bore N.W. j N. and 8.E. i E. ; the centre of Aguijan
Island, S.S.W. ; the peak of Saypan Island was visible over the Island of
Tinian, in the direction of N.N.E. ^ E., and a reef of rocks lying between
the vessel and the shore to E.S.E. \ E.

The first account of the Mariana archipelago that deserves the attention of
navigators is that given by Eichard Walter, the chaplain to Commodore
Anson, in his voyage round tho world, who came to Tinian as just stated
and remained till the end of October, 1742. Frightful ravages had been
made by scurvy in the ill-fated crew of the Centurion, in a previous part of
her voyage. Their ill fortune had not forsaken them. They arrived hero
in their floating hospital, and by means of the refreshments spontaneously
produced they all recovered in a week. Walter draws the picture of Tinian
in the most glowing colours. The healthy and dry soil, the beauty of its
natural meadows, the diversified woods and lawns, valleys and hills, abound-
ing with herds of thousands of cattle; guanacoes, wild hogs, e-xceedingly
fierce, but excellent meat; wild fowls, too, in every part; its fruits, guavas,
cocoa-nuts in considerable numbers, limes, oranges, and «' a kind of fruit
pecuUar to these islands, called by the Indians rhymay, but by us bread-
fruit," swell into a long list of luxuries to the declining mariners. The fish
that were taken proved obnoxious; Walter supposes from the men eating
too much, but Byron afterwards proved that it really was of deleterious
quality. The island had no rivulets or running water, but springs wore
everywhere met with, "and in the midst of the island there are two or three
considerable pieces of excellent water." The accounts of Anson's stay
and what they saw in Tinian, led to very great expocLution in tlio succeed-
ing visitors.

When Byron came here, twenty-two yoara after Anson, ho found Tinian a

«iwitn »i mn fc im if3itg*i'

^^i9

HOn MAUI AN A Oli LADRUNE ISLANDS.

very .lifrorcnt place to ^vlult it had l.oen dcscriboa. Instead of a rara.Uao,
it was, in almost all roBpoct«. tlio rovorso. The climate was insnlTorably hot,
tho water scarce and bad, and the rlague of fleas intolerable. Walter it is
true mentions the last drawback; but Byron says they were covered with
them from head to foot, nor could they open their mouths without gettmg
thorn filled. Added to this, it was found more unhealthy than almost any
other place that they had visited. The two accounts of 1742 and Byron a
in 1763, could scarcely be more opposite. Wallis, who camo here in .67
draws a picture scarcely more flattering than the latter. Captam Gi bert,
who passed it in 1788, says that Captain Wallis's account s.emed to bo
nearest to its condition at that time; so that we may suppose that Lord
Byron's picture is somewhat overdrawn, as that of Walter's undoubtedly is.
Lieutenant Mortimer, who came here in 1789, in the Mercury, got all they
required, but the cattle were very wild and shy. The well near the an-
chorage, so much praised by Richard Walter, and so dispraised by Byron
as being brackish and fuU of worms, was found to be good and sweet;
but this may have been the effect of season. Lieutenant Mortimer was
hero in December, Commodore Byron in August ; Captain Gilbert found it

dry in August, 1788. , , ^t. i.

On one point aU agree, that is, the badness of the roadstead ; we therefore
quote E^ohard Walter's words:-" But the most important and formidable
exception to the place remains stiU to be told ; this is, the inconvemence of
tho road, and the little security there is, in some seasons, for a ship to an-
chor The only proper anchorage place for ships of burthen is at the S.W.
end of the island ; the Peak of Saypan, seen over the northern part of Say-
pan and bearing N.N.E. i E., is a direction for readily finding it; the an-
choring place is then 8 miles distant. Here the Centurion anchored in 22
fathoms, about li miles off the shore, opposite to a sandy bay. The bottom
of this road is full of sharp pointed coral rocks, which, during four months
of tho year, that is, from the middle of June to the middle of October, render
it very unsafe anchorage. This is the season of the western monsoons ; when
near the full and change of the moon, but more particularly at the change,
the wind is usually variable all round the compass, and seldom fails to blow
with such fury that the stoutest cables are not to be confided in. What adds
to tho danger at these times is the excessive rapidity of the tide of flood,
which sets to the S.E., between this island and that of Aguijan, a small islet
near the South extremity of Tinian, which, in the galleon's chart, is repre-
sented only by a dot. This tide runs at first with a vast head and overfall of
water occasioning such a hollow and overgrown sea as is scarcely to be con-
ceived so that we were under the dreadful apprehension of being pooped by
it though we were in a 60-gun ship. In the remaining eight months of the
year that is, from the middle of October to the middle of June, there is a
constant season of settled weather ; when, if tho cables are but well armed,

SAIPAN ISLAND.

807

of a paradise,
isiilTorably hot,
Walter, it ia
D covered with
without getting
an almost any
2, and Byron's
hero in 1767,
!aptain Gilbert,
t Bcemed to bo
pose that Lord
undoubtedly is.
nj, got all they
ill near the an-
raised by Byron
;ood and sweet;
; Mortimer was
a^ilbert found it

id; we therefore
and formidable
inconvenience of
or a ship to an-
i is at the S.W.
em part of Say-
ling it; the an-
anchored in 22
ay. The bottom
ing four months
if October, render
monsoons ; when
f at the change,
dom fails to blow
i in. What adds
the tide of flood,
lijan, a small islet
8 chart, is repre-
jad and overfall of
carcely to be con-
\ being pooped by
ight months of the
June, there is a
but well armed,

there is scarcely any danger of their being over rubbed ; so that, during nil
tJiat interval, it is as secure a road as could bo wished for. I shall only add
that tho anchoring bank is very shelving, and strotclios along tlio S.W. end
of the island, and is entirely free from shoals, except a reef of rocks, whicli
is visible, and lies about half a mile from tho shore, alfording a narrow pas-
sago into a small bay, which is the only place where boats can possibly land."
—(Anson's Voyage, book iii., chap. 2.)

Wo have been more discursive on Tinian tlian its mei-its perhaps deserve,
but as it is a point familiar in the history of navigation, it has more interest
tlian it would otlierwiso claim. When Foycinet came liero, in 1819, ho found
not more than twenty inhabitants on it, and Captain Sauclioz y Zayas says
that tliero wore eighteen in 18G4. The position of tlio villaf^e of Smharon,
abreast of Anson's Koad, is lat. 14^ 59' 22" N., long. 11 J' 36' 20' E.

Captain Sanchez y Zayas says that Tinian is very low, and lias no hills of
any kind. But pumice-stone, black sand and scoria), which aro found every-
where on it, give certain indications of its volcanic origin. All tho western
side, except Sunharon, is perpendicular, and may bo passed close-too,
especially at Point Guryiimi, the S.W. end of which he nearly touched in the
Nurracz, but still it would be better to give it a berth of half a mile, as the
shores are not perfectly known.

In the N.W part there is a reef which runs off a short distance, and off the
eastern side, which is even more perpendicular, and more weather beaten
than tho western coast. It is said tliat a roof extends eastward from Point
Litlo, the South extremity ; but it is much narrower than is shown on the
chart.

Tho village of Sunharon consisted at tho time of tho visit of the JVarvaez,
of fifteen huts, inhabited by 15 people, who aro sent here from AgaPia, and
changed every two years, for tho purpose of slaughtering the cattle and dry-
ing the flesh, making what is called tajea or tasajo (jerked beef), which is
sold for the benefit of the Lepers' hospital, and forms one of the small
sources of revenue possessed by the islands. At a short distance from the
village, on the East coast, is the hospital for incurable lepers, of which there
were only three in 1865, creatures condemned without mercy by the Spauiai-ds,
but they are cared for by the Indians. The antiquities which are found on
Tinian have been before alluded to.

Sunharon is tho only point where a vessel can anchor or a boat can land.
The Narmn anchored here for fivo hours in tho beat spot sho could find, and
with ev< .J -dution, but sho broke her anchor. This will indicate the worth
of the anchorage.

SAIPAN or Seijpan Island, which is distinguished by a lofty peak, is so
close to Tinian that small boats pass from one to the other over tho shoal
water. This island is fe»tile, wooded, and was considered the largest of tho

808 MARIANA OK LADRONE ISLANDS.

Marianas, being 13.} miles in length in a North and South direction, but it

is very much smaller than Guam *

The volcanic cone is of a perfect form, but its elevation has been much
exaggerated. Captain Sanchez y Zayas believes that it is not more than
from 1,000 to 1,200 feot, but it Mras not measured. It has been given at
double this. At about 2 or 3 miles to the North of this peak there is another
extinct crater, moderately elevated on the mountain.

Formerly the island must have been populous, judging from the numerous
tombs Mhich are met with, and there are still some caves filled with skulls,
which were the objects of veneration before the arrival of the Spuniards. At
that period it was entirely depopulated, and has remained so nearly to the
present time In 1810 the Americans founded a colony, or rather a trading
post for the whalers, but they were driven away in 1815. About 1812 some
nati-.osof the Carolines, whose island had been submerged, obtained per-
mission to settle here, and they founded the viUage of Garapan on the East
coast, which at the time of the vi«it of theMrvaez, in January, 1864, had
433 inhabitants, including 9 Chamorro Indians.

The direction of the western coast of Saipan, beyond the South point, is
first N.W., then it turns to the North. It is skirted by coral roefs, extend-
ing from 1 to H miles from the shore, and has an anr, formerly much ex-
aggerated in size, stretching to the 8.W., and near to the end of which is
Managasa Island.

Managasa Island iB in ve^ty about 2i miles to N.N.W. from the N.W.
point of Saypan, and has no prolongation of the reef.

Garapan isinlat. 15° 12' 11" N., and long. 10° 3' 24.7" East of Umata.
It may be recognised from sea at several leagues distance by a large white
rock on the shore, resembling a white patch on the dark green of the vege^
tation When this bears between North and East you may steer for it, but
it must on no account be brought to the South of East or between East and
South.

Managasa Island wiU be left to port, guarding against the reef off it, and
you may anchor with the flagstaff at the village to the North of East, in 10
to 15 fathoms. Care must be taken not to bring the flagstaff to bear East,
because this leads on to the Tartuga Bank, which is extremely dangerous
and nearly awash, the sea but rarely breaking on it. To the North of this

• Captain Sanchez y Zayas found that the charts of Saypan were very defective, and
that many of the names were misplaced. A long reef is shown as running out from the
North part of the island, and terminating about 8 miles from its southern point, and on
this reef is placed Managasa and two other small islets. Nothing of this kind exists.
The chart he has improved is not quite correct, but is better than that previously
given.

rection, Lut it

as been much
lot more than
been given at
here is another

1 the numerous
ed with skulls,
Spuniards. At
f) nearly to the
ithor a trading
bout 1812 some
, obtained per-
an on the East
lary, 1864, had

South point, is
Ell reefs, extend-
nierly much ex-
end of which is

from the N.W.

East of Umata.
y a large white
reen of the vege-
' steer for it, but
etween East and

le reef off it, and
th of East, in 10
aff to bear East,
enoely dangerous
the North of this

1 very defective, and
inning out from the
ithem point, and on
of this kind exists,
than that previously

MAGIC] ENNE 13AY. sO'J

bank is a scries of other shoals, separated by small channels, which unitos
with those of Mauagasa Island.

There is anchorage also about a mile outside the reefs in 19 fathoms to 7
or 8 fathoms close to them, bringing the most conspicuous of the houses about
E.N.E., and Managasa Island to North or N. by E. The bottom is generally
rocky and coral, but with some sandy spots. The Narvaez anchored in 14 fa-
thoms rock and sand, with the AVest point of Managasu N. by E. ; the East
point N. 14° E. ; Saypan N.W. point N. 35" E. ; the largest house in Gura-
pan N. 68^ E. ; N.E. point of Tinian S. 14° W. ; N.W. point S. 21° W.

During the period of the N.E. trades this anchorage is safe, but during
the season when the S.W. monsoon may reacli the Marianas, a vessel
would be i groat danger here, should she be overtaken with oven moder-
ately bad weather.

There is a boat channel across the reefs to the village ; it is wide enough
and is beaconed by the natives with trunks of trees. Tliis channel can be
used by day by attending to these marks, but not by night without a compe-
tent guide, as the channel is very crooked.

Tanapag is a spacious harbour between the N.W. shore of Saypan and
Managasa Island. The entrance is difficult, especially for a sailing vessel,
with N.E. winds. It is a narrow channel bestrewed with rocky heads, but
when within there is a well-sheltered and safe anchorage. The Spanish cor-
vette did not remain long enough to make a plan of it, but from what was
learned respecting it, it was concluded that this harbour, and that of San
Luis d'Apra, were the only ones in the Marianas, where a vessel of any size
could heave down and careen. A whaler of considerable draught had done
so in Tanapag.

Magicienne Bay, so named by Captain N. Vansittart, B.N., C.B., in com-
mand of the steam-frigate of that name, in July, 1858, is on the S.E. side of
Saypan ; lat. 15° 8' 30", long. 145° 44'. Captain Sanchez y Zayas says that
it is not better than any other part of the coast where there are regular
soundings. It is probably safe with S.W. winds (August and September), but
it would be better to go to Tanapag. During the rest of the year it would be
impossible to remain here on account of the heavy sea. The Magicienne,
from Hawaii to Hong Kong, being short of fuel, came here to cut wood.
Mr. Harvey, the master of the steam frigate says :—
" This bay cannot be recommended to a sailing vessel, as the water in it
is deep, and the anchorage so close to a coral reef bordering its shore, that
with a southerly wind there would be no room to weigh. The depth is 30
fathoms, over coral with sandy patches, at only a third of a mile from the
bluff at the head of the bay, decreasing rapidly to 3 fathoms close alongside
the coral reef, which nearly dries at low water. The Magicienne anchored in
18 fathoms water, with the S.W. point of the bay bearing S. i E. about 2i
milesj the S.E. point, which is a bluli; E.S.E. \\ miles j and a wooded bluff

«,0 MARIANA on LAI)IU>NE ISLANDS.

, 1 1 fi.nW NNW 1 W.noarlyathirdof a milo. When tho

r^U to fto «tUwa,d „t h..r ..chov tl,.,» ,.»..». b..«o,„ . f..h.»..

.„„ .l„ckno.B of a man • ^J' ;"'; ,„ ,„ji„g ,. on th . -and,

;''T:,:hol^.^o"wtdodW«aat\h„hoadof.h„bay Th.«w

eonld lio aaoat clo.. .0 tUe co a roof^ Th^, woo ^^^^^^ .^ ^^_^

«ing pnrro^s «Uo .o n^ — ,^,„„„l«an.„., i. did not give out

,.ing only 0,naJ .0 ono ton ot go^ W*h cod No J^^^^^
«""°^>7""="tltn ,L !« .hat U cangU during...

r'.r^toi:«rwo:;S-.n.. go,e..ont. .g. po^t..

and fruit, can bo obtained at the village.

,;:^:r.s:tsr=;^-^"^^^^^

''•^Ittb^rwate. full and change, in Ma^cicnno Bay, at e" 45-, and tho

*°^°"*°irr*;".:™-^'STsiuJi...*..joined

Forrcy ..ye that tho South pomt ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^

:::rShr;rxy -railed i^- *. --. -^^ -

'r f ""l^'XtrzXto^^^ld t^r^nd ca^raUy, could ...e
.olrhir WoSfo:. and the r.neh plan. Ei^e. the hgn.

1 lu (T,.,t ..ll the northern islands of tho archipelago were
hiirrioilly drawn up.

ANATAXAN ISLAND, ETC.

811

0. Whon tho
lies iindor lier
'; at a cable's
it 70 fathoms.
Lith.

1 tho shores of
ir tho most part
inco sometliing
is on tb J sandy
jay Tho crow
QS in six days,
,e boats, which
ried, but being
foro using it for
t ; the bark was
did not give out
.If fathoms of it
er could be ob-
sh ; indeed there
light during the
)ctobor. Cocoa-
many wild pigs
rigs, poultry,

wind was light
the land between

it 6" 45™, and the

miles long, N.E.
about 50 ft. high,
ish patches. On
grottos. M. Du-
lill, perhaps joined
reed rock, through

Grottes, and the

•efully, could trace
Either the figure

t tho archipelago were
rt was manifestly very

of the island has cliangod considerably, or ciso tho plan is drawn from imagi-
nation ; tho low nock and hummock could not bu rccognisod ; all appoarod
of tho same olovation.

Tho governor of tlio Marianas stated that thoro oxiatod vestigos of a crater
on its summit. It is undoubtedly of volcanic origin, and is completely bare
of yogotation; and not being raoro than 45 foot high, tho soa washes com-
liK'tely over it in heavy woathor. Its centre is in lat. 15" 59' 20' N., long.
U(\'' 0' E.

ANATAXAX or Anatajan Island is 9 leagues N.W. of tho last; it is
about 5 miles long, East and \Vo9t. It has two very high and stoep peaks
lying on the samo pai'allol. To tho 8.W. only thoro is a small point slightly
projecting. The island has every appearance of being volcanic.

It was seen by tho Narvaez 40 miles off, although tho wonthor was not
very clear. It is very steep-to all around. In tho southern part only is a
sort of crook, in which, however, the water is so doop that a vessel could
not anchor. Throe peaks are seen from this part, ono of which, it is said,
is a volcano. Perhaps a closer examination might discover a boat or other
landing, because tho island was inhabited at tho timo of tho Spanish dis-
covery. It is covered with trees and bushes, among which the cocoa-nut is
conspicuous. Lat. of the centre, 16" 20' N., long. 145^ 40' E.

SARIOUAN ISLAND, to tho N.N.E. of tho preceding, at 20 miles distant
appears to be merely a high hill, of the form of an upright cono, with nearly
a circular base, \^ miles in diameter. Its summit is rounded, and seems to
bo of volcanic origin.

It was formerly inhabited, but is now completely deserted. Freycinet says
that it is almost without vegetation. Sanchez y Zayas says that it is covered
with trees; lat. 16° 41' N., long. 145° 47' E.

FABALLON DE TORRES or Zealandia Rooks.— Tho first of thcso names
is given from a former governor of the Marianas, who gavo a note of their
position to all co.iimanders who arrived at Guam. Tho second is that of tho
vossol commandott by Captain J. Foster, who drew attention to their ox-
istonco in 1859. Their previous omission from tho charts led to a series of
very remarkable errors, as stated in the note below.*

* These rocks were shown as two points to the S.W. of Guguan (but without name) on
Enpinoaa's chart of 1812. They were passed unnoticed in tho Uraiiie by Freycinot, in
1819, and that commander, being possessed of a correct list of tho islands in thoir proper
order, applied tho name Piedras de Torres to the island of Guguan to tho North of it,
then transposing all tho correct names up to Agrigan, which ho called Asuncion, placed
Paffon at 3 leagues to tho North of the island properly so called, but which bo called Ala-
maguan. This supposed island, which they thought they saw impoifectly through tho huze,
/ills no exislance, and thus this imaginary isliind, coupled with tho omission of tho riedras dc
Torres, well known to the natives to exist to the iSouthof Guguun, has led to the confusion

I
I

MARIANA Oil LAIJKONE 18LANDS.

81 2

The na,ue Mlon i« porhupB Bcarcoly appl-blo to thou. Th.y arc m>t
pinnacled rocks above water, and therefore Fiedra. de Torres, he Uns
'i,, best describes them. It may bo that the heavy sea constantly beat.ug
„n K.m has reduced the height of these evidently vohuuuc lu.ks,
L th^r first announcement. They were notseen by the Nar.ae., but hey
vere described by the shipwrecked people they had on bo^d a.^ espe^aUy
by Salas, a pilot, that they consisted of three rocks awash, each about u.
hfrge as a boat, occupying a space about a cable's length, more or ess n
lent There is no appearance of soundings near then, and mfine ^^eather
th! seaonly breaks at long intervals. Their position, as stated, accords w.h

^^^I^L:^:":;— ndof the above o^^^^

to Shanghai, was passing between Ouguan and Sar.guan on DecemW '

1858, suppoling the channel t. bo ciuito clear and safe, as shown by the

^'?. M 4 p.mXi'^an Island bearing 8.S.W.. distant 12 miles; wind light
from the eastwardrship steering W.N.W. about 4 knots, ^-aker-veve
reported right ahead ; saw two large patches about three-quarters of a mde
Imteship; altered course to pass about half a mile northward of them,
kZing a good look-out from the top-sail yard. At 4.20 p.m. banguaa
Jland bore's, by W. i W., distant about 11 or 12 -1-- -^ «- ,^-'^^-
in one with the island, distant from the ship abou half a nule. The t^o
paZs bore from oach other N. by E. and S. by W., about a quarter of a
^t:pa^, with dark water between and all around them ; the sea broke at

^'"^"Jr was threatening, and the day closing, so that Captain^-;-
clid not think it prudent to make a closer examination of t^em, ^;t ^^ --
ful observations place them in about lat. 16° 51' N.. long. 145 50 K

OUGUAN.-This small island is about 12 leagues from Sanguan. It is

« :. J . rrv:. „rror wM common to aU charts after the publication of Duperrcy's
r:rm«lt";r::rS:tain Sanehe. y Z^a.. cHart .as pu.hs^^ by tKc
SnanI Government from the observations made in the Narvaez, m 1864 and 1866.

Tain sll y Zayas devotes sever.! pages to the discussion of this important error,
and thU p^te between those islands.-(See Ann. Hyd., No. 416. pp 240-260.)

irt^^rrAgrigan and Pagan fifteen persons who were nearly lost on the ree n

He took from Agng^ the launch was afterwards wrecked on Pagan. The rcctifi-

ITZ tr y Xati^ — der was complete, but as the origin of tho mistake

cation thus made I y P ^ .^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ descnpt.ons of

issomamfestitdoesnetrequ^e y ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^

these othermseummpo^nti^-d^^^^^^^^^^^ Farallon de Torres ; Alanuuj.n

"•^^ troirn^C wrr;Wn.anW-^^ i«land being substituted for
;::»: BosSis-^^^^ i^agin... group, the Mangs U.. were supposed to have
been seen in the U>anU, but do not exist.

ATAArAOAN ISLAND, ETC.

Hl;l

IS, tlie 'Jones
antly bunting
il<uuiic pt'iiks,
rvaet, but they
ftucl ospocially
lacb about us
ro or loss, in
u fine weatbor
I, aocords with

, Now Zealaiul
Docombor :> 1 ,
shown by tho

los; wind light
breakers wove
irtors of a mile
ward of them,
p.m. Sariguun
d the breakers
lile. The two
a quarter of a
he sea broke at

, Captain Foster
a\, but his care-
>" 50' E.
Sariguan. It is

ition of Duperrcy's
3 published by tho
1 and 186S.
ais important error,
, 240—260.)
lost on the reef in
agan. Tho rectifi-
irigin of tho mistake
uing descriptions of
proper names. It
Torres ; Alanmjnn
eing substituted for
liro supposed to have

2 miles from N.N.E. to S.S.W. Its broadtli does not miuh oxceod a mile,
and it is of modonito lioiglit, much roHombling the Farallon do Modinilla.
Its Nortli point is tho iowost ; throughout it lias a most barren aspeot, is
poriiendicular, and unappntachable on all sides. Freycinot namttd it after
Major do Torres, at Guam, and gives its correct position, lat. 17" 16' 50",
long. 145° 50' 15" E.

ALAMAOAN or Alamagnan is almost exactly North of Ouguan, ami
5i leagues distant from it. It lies North and South, 2\ miles long, and is
one of the highest in the archipelago. On it are two peaks, as seen from the
West, tho northe.Ti one may be 2,000 foot high. The late Spanish survey
makes it 2,300 English feet. To tho South and East tho slope of the hills is
extremely rapid, and the rock, which descends to tho sea, is composed of
lava. At its South end there are, however, some white and rod spots, and
to the West a point covered with trees ; it is the only place where there are
any large vegetables. The North side is not so stoop as the South. The
highest point on the North side is a vast crater, from whence Freycinet saw
smoke issue, as was also the case with another to the N. W., at two-thirds up
the mountain. Lat. XT 34' N., long. 14.5° 51' E.

PAOAN (or Pagon) is very nearly on the meridian of Alamagan. It
was imperfectly seen by Freycinet. Captain Sanchez y Zayas says that
it is about 8 miles long N.E. and S.W., and 2J miles broad. At a distance
it makes as two or three islands, because its two ends are mountainous, and
are connected by a deep valley. There are three active volcanoes on it ; one
of which is to the N.E., the others to the 8.W. The first is a conical
mountain, from which there issued dense columns of smoke when the Narvaez
passed, on January 5th, 1865. The two others to the 8.W. are open craters
on the large hill, in which the island terminates at this ond. One of them
is enormous, and flames issued from the other. Tho valley between the
hiUs is covered with black sand and innumerable bushes. Tho tropical ve-
getation reaches nearly to the summit of the mountains, except the N.E. cone,
which is quite bare.

There is very little water on the island, but pigs and game may be got
in abundance. The Narvae% anchored off the N.W. side about the middle,
the spot may be known by a large rock, which at 6 or 7 miles off seems io
be like an islet. At 3 or 4 cables off this is bad anchorage in 14 fathoms
bottom of coral rocks. Landing is very difficult here, but about a mile to
the N.E. of this rock there is a low sandy beach, which has probably better
anchorage and easier landing.

This low beach is a very narrow tongue of sand, wliich separates the sea
from a large and very deep lagoon. The governorof the Marianas, who was on
board the Narvaez, thought that by cutting through this tongue an excellent

MAUIANA OR lAKKONK ISLANDS.

Hit

l.ar].o«r would l>o fomod, Imt hucU a Imvbouv wouia bo uh.-Iohh .• Tho vol-

rano at tlio N.K. ond i« in lat. 1«' T N., l.n.p 116^ ^'^ ^- . ,

AOEIOAH or Origan I.land i« about 6 n.iW Ion,, on Mh...h aro .oon two
^SLu, apimrontly a fonn.r vol.ano. Wilk.., by an nn,..r ..• ob...-
V t m L o "to bn 'ZaOO lV..t luKh. To tho 8.W. of tho .land lu.u ...
C rll. Froy.ln.t .as assurod. a .mail ,hun. m IVont c. wh.c^ on-
is bad uuchorago, on account of tho violonco of tho currout. Iho A » u ans
and BO„.o Sandwich islanders woro ostablishod on th.s .sh.nd on ho^ V
side but wore forcibly removed by tho governor of Guam, as bil.u
taL C iLn SancLyZayaB thinks that tho above elevation g.von by
wISceB is very much in excess, as ho considered it not more than t.o-thuds

"'1™;! from a groat distance from tho South, assumes the fonu of
a perfect trapezium with two sn.aU eiuinences at tho upper ""«-•!;
1 aU round, and it is very steep. The -borage -my bo oaj. y ^^^^^^^^^^
because it is in fi-ont of tho only sandy beach on tho island. Bottom Mil
' bTfold tiU within 4 cables of tho beach, and then the depth is .ogular,
frl 1 tTn fathoms, black sand. The only anchorage is that taken by Uio
Zvae^, in 11 fathoms, with tho S.W. point of Agr.gan beanng N.N.W
and I South point 8. 64^ W.. about a mile from the landing place and 3
.4 bles off shore. To the southward was a largo hght-coloured p.itc^
iL shoal water, but there was not less than 6 fathoms water on it Cho
land^g is veiT ;)ad. The beach is of very coarse black sand, very bgl and

ovidentlv of volcanic origin. . „„

OnALganare abundance of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and tropica roots, as
.veU at flfrgo quantity of pigs, goats, and poultry. The present govern.,
Trmed a curing establishment hero, similar to that on Tinian but lor wan
"means of communication it was abandoned, and then the AT.m^^^^^^^^^
the men left there, and let loose tho animals whey had collected, they 1 ft
sTand unpeopled. Tho island is evidently volcanic, but there are no
:astre..ns,'noJ appearance of a crater as foniierly stated The soi s
very fertile, and the island i^ covered from shore ^o su^^^l^^' ^^^^^
tion. The S.E. point is in lat. 18" 46' 20" N.. long. 145 41 4o L.f

. There is a talc (so frequently told) of treasure being buried on Pagan about 1820 or

I Mes on boa^ he brig, whieh sailed off in the night, by the aid of two

'^::'^i:f^Zt.L.J:.i^^. The papo. whieh he had apparently tK.d the
pteTCn. But the whole story is so vague that it may bo fairiy M^-d a,nong the

T^tt ;ri:}«. /».«»^^ ^ave been another difliculty in tho hydrography of U.

.* Tho vul-

aro coon tw

uul thori) in,
; wliiih thort)
'Iio Amt'ricaiis
on llio f^.W.
n, us boloro

tii)n n'Vi'ii ''y
uiu two-tliiiilrt

L)8 tho form of
ungloa. It iH
oaisily known,
rJottoni will
pill i« lognlar,
it tukon by tho
ring N.N.W.,
ig phico, and S
■coloured patch
)r on it. Tho
vory lig' •m'l

opical rootH, ns
roBont govornor
L, but lor want
Nitrvacz took oil"
lectod, thoy left
it thoro arc no
d. Tho soil is
oit with vogota-
45" E.t

;an, iiliout 1820 or
ck for this triiasuro,
1(1 como from somo
ibitants had plurcil
ly tho Rid of two
i]>imrontly fixed tho
• pLicod among the

hydrography of tho

AlSL'NClUN IHLANl). si,'.

ASUNCION or Assumption Iikud is :.:. milon N. by W. from Agrigmi.
It is a conical mountain about a milt* iu dimnotor, and with a largo crater
on tho Hummit. Its caHtorn sido iH of lavn, and tho m«a waslioM up it to a
fonsidoriiblo hci^r),!, at Uini 'im foot, or douldo tho h.'ight of tho masts, a
certain indication of tho groat doptli of tho hcu at iU \nm\ Thoro is scanvly
any vogotation on tho oaHtoru sido. At tho North end of tho ishmd is a
rock through which tiio soa has worn a paHHago. To tiio North of thJH
iwint two rocky heads show thcuiHolvos ; tlu-y lio about a cabio oU' tho
point.

On tho WoHt fiido tho slopo of tho mountain in loss rapid, and forms a
perfect cono ; but liko tho other, tho const is pequMidicular. ()ufsi(h. the
soutliem and lowest part of tho island there are two or throe rocks, but not
more than half a cable's Ictigtli off. All tliis side is covc^red with a vigorous
tropical vegetation. It is not known whether any one has laiKhul on it siuco
La Porouso did on Docombor 14th, 1786, whou ho carefully observed its
position on shore.

Asuncion is vory lofty, and is consequently from its small base a remark-
nblo objoct. La Torouso estimated it at 1.200 feet ; Dupern^y at 1,7()0 • but
Captain Sanchez y Zayas says those figures are evidently too small, and by
two angidar moasurements ho obtained a moan height of 802.5 metres or
2,600 ft. Tho crater is in lat. 19° 45' N., long. 145^ 30' E.

The URBACAS ISLANDS aro throo in number, tho largest to tho West,
tho smallest to tho N.E. Thoy aro moderately high, voiy irregular, and lio
in a circle 2 or 3 miles in diameter. Thoy aro conuoctod by breakers whicli
complete the irclo around thom. Tho outer part of this circle is of a regu-
lar form, but tho inner sides aro much cut up, Tho outer side is of a rod-
dish lava, t' inner black and calcined. Tho group appears to have been
tho summit or crat jr of an immense volcano, or tho niins of a former peak
twin-brothor to Asuncion. It is entirely desolate, neither tree, brushwood,'

Marianas. Thoy wcro first statod by La Perouso to boar 28" W. from Assumption (Asiin-
cion), but whether to N.N.W. or 8.S.W. was not clear. In tho account of Froycinot'H
voyage thoy were said to have boon scon from tho Uranie's mast-hoad, bearing to tho
S.S.W. of Asuncion, and aro so placed on Dupcrroy's chart. But as La Torouso says tliat
he never saw tho Urraciis, they have been placed to tho N.N.W. of Asuncion on tho French
and Spanish charts of 18G2, so that thoy have had two positions on tho charts, and in
addition to this, the Admiralty chart, gives the name to tho Urracas.

This mystery was also cloarod up by tho Xarvaez. Hur commander sought zealously for
them in their assigned positions, steaming over their sites, and finding no ovidenco of their
existence. Tho conclusion that ho justly arrived at was, that this extensive reef and islols
wore identical with tho Urracas, and that lia Perou.se's .iccount will porfoctly bear out
this, as thoy are dearly visible from Asuncion, and nothing ciso is in sight in that
direction.

810 MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS, ETC.

nor rivtdot is to be seen. Its outer side, beyond the encircling rocks,

is evidently very deep, and they drop suddenly into deep water

Ittfar from being dangerous; in fact they form an excellent pomt f
recognition, as they may be seen at a great d.ta^e. and the^ are en^ ly
free from danger outside the circle. Lat. 20 6 35 N., and long.

''gT^ EOCK or Farallon de Pajaros is the northernmost of the Marianas.
It was discovered by Douglas, September 12, 1780, and i« P^-f ^d^^^^^^^
«econdnameinE.iWscha.. IWas^^^^^^^^^

irroltt^^ :: 'Z fee! Srid n mile'broadfrom Northto South,
aid 2 mits r more East and West. It is aconical niountain crowned witi.
IroTn activity, for four or five columns of very thick and black smoke
tZtottw. of the summit at a spot which resembled a crater,
r heSou^E '^and North sides the coast is perpendicular, and the sea
beasheavUy upon them. To the 8.E. a large rock Ues agaxnst he coast.
aldne^Ihisare several others, one of which is very remarkable resem-
i a shl-pointed steeple. To the West the side of the mountam slopes
Lore^fd^y.butthere'arenooff-lying dangers on this side, 'n.ere ,s
rianTng, no' vegetation, nor reason for going ashore. The summit is m
lat. 20° 30' N., long. 145° 8' 40" E.

T»TlITOMA»T KEEF.-In 1869 Captain Bartlett, of the British barque
^S P^ed close te a reef, level with the water, and ^^ 400 -^00
feet long. It Ues 75 leagues westward of Asuncion, in lat. 19 18 N., loug.
141° 34' E.

TTWTiSAY ISLAND.-Thls island was discovered by Mr. Lindsay, of the
J^i^ZtLer An.ua, during a calm, on Christma..day, ^^^^- ^^^^
A aT^nnt 50 feet high, and 4 miles in length, very barren, and of a dark
C^ct:.Or!;s position, lat. 190 ,0' N., long 141° 8, E., its dis-
coTer speaks confidently, having proved the rate of his chronometer only
two days previously at the Islands of Grigan and Asuncion.

But Captain Bartlett, of the Britomart, above mentioned, passed over his
position in 1869, but it was not visible from the mast-head m fine clear
daylight.

U-TOMNCE SHOAI—Captain E. Wadsworth, of the Florence, reports
as fSw-April 13th, 1862, lat. 18° 6' N., long. 143° 18' E. we passed
over . Toal of 2 miles in extent ; got a cast of the lead In 10 fathoms, coral,
but was off the bank before we could sound again. Previous to sounding
Repassed over some places much shoaler, probably not more than 5 or 6
fathoms ; I called it Florence shoal.

w-xsR'i'fumisie^m

ITC.

DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS.

817

encircling rocks,
water.

xcellent point of
;hey are entirely
" N., and long.

i of the Marianas,
placed under the
Bscribed by Capt.
a rock or farallon.
m North to South,
tain, crowned with
I and black smoke
isembled a crater,
icular, and the sea
against the coast,
emarkable, resem-
le mountain slopes
lis side. There is
The summit is in

the British barque
d from 400 to 500
at. 19° 18' N., long.

Mr. Lindsay, of the
day, 1848. It ap-
arren, and of a dark
[41° 8i' E., its dia-
ls chronometer only
ion.

aed, passed over this
3t-head in fine clear

Anson Shoal. — On the old cliarts a shoal is shown at 140 miles East nf
Luzon, in lat. 17° 35' N. It may have been seen by Captain Ayor, in the
£arl of Clare, March, 1848 ; bottom of largo white shells and dark-
coloured rocks • water not discoloured ; no soundiugs. Lat. 17"^ 50' N., long.
124^ 40' E.*

The Philippine '^slands, which limit the North raciiic to the westward,
between the parallels included in this Chapter, ire dos(!ribod in our Directory
for the Indian Archipelago, &c., 1869, pages 794—824.

• Besides this shoal several others are found on tho old charts in ; j ncighbcurhood of
the Marianas, but the positions are so vague, both in latitude and longitude, that nothing
certain can bo said about them. The following is an enumeration of tho chief of
them : —

. A shoal, from Spanish charts, is marked at 6° to the eastward of the Anson shoal above
mentioned.

A reef, in lat. 16- 32' N., long. 143° 22' E., from the Honolulu Friend.

An island, in lat. 17° 0' N., long. 136° 0' E., from whaler report.

A reef, in lat. 17° 6' N., long. 159° U' E., from whaler report.

Folger Island, in lat. 18° 21' N., long. 155° 19' E., was passed o.-er by the flag-ship of the
U.S. Exploring Expedition.

A doubtful shoal, in lat. 15° 30' N., long. 141° 10' E.

Spanish Islands, in lat. 13° 65' N., long. 142° 10' E.

Anson Islands, repeated, in lat. 13° 0' N. long. 141° 35' E.

Islands from the Spanish charts, in 13" zii' E., 138° 30' E. (The U.S. Exploring Expedi-
tioa passed near these last positions.)

Mira-por-vos, in lat. 14" 20', long. 143° 20', may refer to the Sta. Rosa Bank, if it exisl.s,
or it is otherwise unknown. Oarbanzos, a degree to the southward, may be tho same, but
cannot be determined.

the Florence, reports
\° 18' E., we passed
I in 10 fathoms, coral.
Previous to soxinding
3t more than 5 or 6

J^arth PaciAc.

■ '•^T ■'- ^ ^

^, ••* •*( ■■

( 8'-8 )

CHAPTER XIV.

ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD OF LAT. 20° N., INCLUDING
THE HAWAIIAN OR SANDWICH ISLANDS.

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

These islands were discovered by Captain Cook, in his last and unfortunate
voyage. Proceeding from Tahiti, he made the land of Atooi and Woahoo,
to the North and N.E., on Sunday, January 18, 1778. Thoy were naraed by
him the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, the th jn first
lord of the Admiralty, under whose administration he had enriched geoipraphy
with so many and splendid disooveriea.

Although to Cook belongs the honour of thus making them really known
to Europe, there are some proofs that they had been previously seen by the
early Spanish voyagers, the first of whom was Tuan Gaetano, in 1542, who
made the first voyage from New Spain to the coast of Asia, though there is
no account that he saw them. On the old Spanish charts there is a group
marked in the same latitude, but much farther to the eastward than the
Sandwich Islands ; the southernmost and largest of these is called La Mesa
(the table) ; to the N.E. of this is La Desgraoiada (unfavoured) ; and to the
N.W. is a group of six, collectively called Ids Yonj'es (the monks). In the
different charts of Lord Anson, taken with -he Manila galleon, and those
noticed by Bumey (vol. v.), they are placed ijom 10° to 22° farther East than
the Sandwich group. They were unsuccessfully sought for by La Perouse,
Vancouver, and others. And as the ancients determined their longitudes
nearly by chance, the conclusion is almop* irresistible that this group is in-
tended for those under consideration. In this vievj, if the islands were seen
at a distance, La Mesa would answer for the flat-topped Mauna Loa in Ha-
waii and it is here now suggested that La Desgraciada would answer to
Mauna Kea ; Fleurieu, who was the first to point out this subject, considered
that La Desgraoiada might be a separate and undiscovered island. Los
Monjes would represent the western islands of the windward group, Oahu,

[NCLUDING
[)S.

and unfortunate
i and Woahoo,
were naraed by
ix, the th jn first
iched geo^in^apby

im really known
iisly seen by the
J, in 1542, who
though there is
here is a group
stward than the
s called La Mesa
red) ; and to the
oaonks). In the
Ueon, and those
farther East than
by La Ferouse,
their longitudes
bis group is in-
islands were seen
,una Loa in Ha-
would answer to
ibjeot, considered
)red island. Los
ird group, Oahu,

KAUAI]

ij»

20"

l»"

.._ .-.4..

liJ'

"■^????!"5^E3™!E=

C .Kiima

._^

x.^* vr*

LAX At BAB.Vt' ' V

• •A-.."""'"

f.lfc

HAWAII OR

SAHDWICH ISLANDS.

- xTTTpxirF rx i 1 u.|,].ij 1 1 itili, 1,1,1 mm l,|,.j 11,1 LLLjXJM^ i^ ^ \^ j " t m . ^ ^^^, , r^

leo" ir>|>»" i:»a-

ILiu-

i.i."'

R H LAURIE 53 FlEt' STREEI ..ONDON

Fj<j» fit*

liJ'

i:»K"

m Jl'WIillilMr*"

._:jt'-.'ii«4 — fr^

.....U-

KiuiKloPf

>^ P.irkiui

,4d^

KAttV'

.^:^^

ILiu-

/uttt/t//i,- I

Wav

Jif"

HAWAII

^r.;"

''"itomo

s«»i»>'

-rrr

»'• ^^^"

I fi-rn

I.!,-'

20"

.RIE 53 FlEt' STREEI lONDON

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

81 :»

Maui, &c., and thus, without much difiiculty, all discropancios would bo re-
conciled except that of longitude.

Other evidences exist of some prior knowledgo of European people. Oook
found in his first interview two pieces of iron, which could only be de-
rived from Europeans, a piece of iron hoop two inches long, and an apparent
point of a broadsword. The feather head-dresses, in the form of European
helmets, and ihe grotesque heads of tho same material, which he procured,
and are now to be seen in the ethnological room of the British Museum, also
indicate a similar origin of ideas. Added to this, tlie adoration paid to Cook,
as the looked-for god, combined with the other traditionary evidence, prove
that some former, though nearly forgotten, intercourse had taken place. Be
that as it may, to Cook undoubtedly belongs the real discovery of the Sand-
wich Islands as now known.

It will be unnecessary to enter into the details of tho progress of these
islands in their early days of European intercourse.

After their discovery they were not visited till 1786, when Captains Port-
lock and Dixon anchored at Oahu. La Torouse visited Maui about the same
time. Vancouver spent several months here in 1792 and 1793. He intro-
duced the present breed of cattle, and during his stay the Island of Hawaii
was ceded to the British crown. Tho first missionaries were landed at Kai-
rua, in Hawaii, February 4, 1820, from Boston, United States. Some from
England soon followed, and their zoal and industry soon effected a wondrous
change in the character of their converts ; and one most prominent circum-
stance arising out of it was the visit of the King Liho-Liho and his queen,
with a native suite, to England, in 1822. They unfortunately died soon
after their arrival. H.M.S. Blonde, under the command of Lord Byron, was
commissioned to convey their bodies back to their kingdom, a proceeding
which made a most favourable impression in Hawaii. Matters would havo
gone on well but for religious intolerance. The Protestant missionaries both
English and American, had increased ; but in 1827 some Eomish priests
were introduced ; they were expeUed in 1830. In 183G the Eomish propa-
ganda again introduced themselves, but great bigotry on both sides led to
most serious results. It gave occasion to the French government to act
with very great harshness, and finally to take possession of the islands.

The most prominent circumstance in this afi'air is that of the Clementine, a
brigantine under the British flag, in 1839, which was forcibly entered, and
made to retain on board two French missionaries brought by her on her late
voyage from California. To adjust this outrage, Captain Sir Edward Bel-
cher endeavoured to convince the missionaries and the king (Tamehameha
III.) of the impropriety of this step. The French frigate, La Femis, 60 guns,
appeared at this critical moment, and Captain Du Petit Thouars acted with
Sir Edward Belcher in the matter, and the missionaries were for a time
lauded, and an a(;knowledgment given that reparation should be made to thi*

•iG2

•-

-lSif3sifSS«fii«'w55'Sr-iMW''

;.'^

820 TnE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

owners of the Chmenthw. After this tho govommont nnd the state of ro-
dety became disorganised, nnd after mucli controversy tho French took pos-
session of tho Sandwich Islands, August 25, 1819.

This interference was subsequently adjusted, and tho power of tho Icinp;
settled on a firm hasis. A constitution simple, but stringent, and adapted 1 o
the requirements of the people, was promulgated in 18G4, and the integrity
of tho kingdom has been guaranteed by a tripartite treaty between England,
Franco, and the United States. Tho government is monarchical, and based
largely on that of Great Britain. Tho king governs by a cabinet and a
legislative chamber. Each island has its viceroy, and life, property, and
justice are as secure as in any cov.ntry in tho world. Unfortunately party
politics and intrigues mar at times what might otherwise be the perfect hap-
piness of a simple community.

The natives and their habits have been too often described to need much
being said here. When Cook first landed, their astonishment was extreme.
They were above the middle size, and well made ; their complexion rather
darker than those of Tahiti, and altogether not so handsome a people. Most
of their former customs, so much dilated on in the early accounts, have
passed away, and are generaUy superseded by European habits and manners,
not perhaps altogether advantageous to them.

The estimate of Cook, in 1779, that there were 400,000, is generally be-
lieved to be much too large. Probably 300,000 would be nearer the truth.
One thing is certain, that there must have been a vastly greater population
then than now, as is evidenced by the rich taro land now lying waste on all
the islands ; and in the districts of Kau, Waimea, and Kohalu, on Hawaii,
it wiU be very evident that three or four times the number of people must
have lived to have cultiva' ed it.

The following statistics will show that the decrease has been rapid. The
population in 1823 was estimated at 142,050 ; and according to the census of
1832, 130,315; and from that of 1836, 108,679. The decrease appears to
have' been' in progress almost from the date of their discovery. One cause,
at least, has added to this ; the number of young men who leave the islands
in whalers and other ships, and never return. The number annuaUy afloat
is computed at 4,000. Their wives and children, thus left to want, fall into
vicious habits and destruction. Another cause is the mortality of 1848, the
" year of death," when it is supposed that 10,000 were swept from the islands
by the measles, whooping-cough, and influenza combined.

The last census, taken in 1866, gave the following as the result of the po-
pulation. Besides the islands thus enumerated there are Molokini, Lehm,
Katda, and Nihm, which are uninhabited, barren, and very small. The area
of the'islands given below is a new estimate from the charts, and differs con-
siderably from the official statement.

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

«'2I

tho fltato of sn-
Fronch took poa-

»wor of tho Icinp;
t, and adapted 1 o
ind the integrity
letweon England,
chical, and baaed
a cabinet and a
'e, property, and
ifortunatoly party
3 the iierfect hap-

3d to need much
lent was extreme,
omploxion rather
le a people. Most
y accounts, have
tbits and manners,

is generally be-
I nearer the truth,
greater population
i^ing waste on all
halu, on Hawaii,
ir of people must

been rapid. Tho
ig to the census of
Bcrease appears to
(Very. One cause,
) leave the islands
jer annually afloat
t to want, fall into
tality of 1848, the
pt from the islands

e result of the po-
e Molokini, Lchua,
y small. The area
■ts, and differs con-

PUESENT I'OPI'LMIDN UK TIIK KlNODOM.

Natives. Total.

l!t,22r. lit.KOS

ia,i;!o i4,o:t.".

.■),!)07 (<,'VM)

17,22.-. l!),7!llt

2,270 2,2!)',»

ys,) 304

312 ;i2.i

Area ni\
Hawaii • • . • 2

>{to. m.
,(ilO

l'\)roi>?n(irs.
572 .

Maui

■U,3

.J22

G05 .

,392 .

Oahu

3«3

2,.)7» .

Molak.'ii • . • •

29 .

LiJiTiai •••••■

9 ,

<;,')

13 .

Total.

4,148

4,194

58,71)5

G2,959

Tho present king Lot-Kamehamrha V. was born 1 )ocoiiiber 11, 1830. He is
the son of tho governor Kekuanaoa and Kinuou, daughter of Kamehameha
I., and succeeded his brother Kamohamelia IV., in November 1863.

In 1862 an English missionary bishop, Dr. Staley, arrived at Honolulu,
and a beautiful cathedral, chiefly of worked stone, sent out from England,
has been erected.

The one great source of prosperity in former years was the whale-flshery.
This important branch of commerce, which has been referred to previously,
attracted such a concourse of the New England and other whalers to the
North Pacific, that in 1850 tho number which visited the Sandwich Islands
to refit amounted to 549 square-rigged vessels. In 1846, 674 vessels touched
here, chiefly whalers. Of tho moral advantage to tho natives of this influx
of licentious sailors, little can be said, but it brought much wealth. After
that year there was a very sudden and great decrease. The amount of sperm
and whale oil, and whalebone, decreased to less than one-half, or one-third
of what it was in 1858, when it was at the maximum, 222,464 gallons
sperm 2,551,382 gallons whale oil, 1,614,710 lbs. whalebone, in 1858; re-
duced to 47,859 gallons of sperm, 782,086 gallons whale oil, 672,900 lbs.
whale bone, in 1860 ; and these items became reduced in 1862 to less than
one-third of what they were in 1860. After that they began to increase
slightly, so that the whale ships which entered were 73 in 1862, 102 in 1863,
140 in 1864, and 180 in 1865. Since this period this source of revenue ha»
so much declined, while others have increased, that it is no longer looked
on as the staple commerce of the islands.

The development of the commerce and increase of the population in Cali-
fornia, and the consequent trade which has steadily progressed with San
Franci.sco, and also the advance of British Columbia, and the intercourse with
tho free port of Victoria, are now the real sources of prosperity to the Ha-
waiian Islands. They may be considered as the "West Indies" of N.W.
America, and their fertility and great adaptability for tho growth of sugar,
coffee, cotton, &c,, only await the influx of capital and labour to make thorn

,v(^^fmim!i«sisii^>sums!Si.tm>0ssmimssiss^s^A *s!3Fct?«?3^

■ :.:>'m-A;>1 l f . '

g._,2 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

,,.l,Hbl.,- ..f suH.lying the whole ol tho countries on the N.E. IVific «i(h
those necoBsaries* But tlio rostrietivo duties imposed at San l-ranc.Hn,
(amounting to from 50 to 100 per cent, .m the yaluo of the «ugar), has much
intprforcd with that triido.

In 1867 there woro .TJ Hugar i-lantutioiiH iu ..poration, comprising about
11 000 acros. Tho cost of producing sugar is about 3 cents, or lid. per lb.
Rico was produced to tho extent of 1,000,000 lbs. Wool is also largely
Rrown; there woro above 1,000,000 bheop, including largo flocks of merinos,
on the islands. The island of Niihau was purchased of the government by
a Scotch family from Canterbury, New Zealand, for a sheep farm. Cotton
failed somewhat on account of drought and from worms, but was largely
crown. Coffee was also blighted for above 10 years.

Excellent coal from Vancouver Island can be had for about 11 dollars, or
44s. per ton, Australian coal for the same price, and the best Welsh steam
coal at about 14 dollars, or 56s. per ton.

Now that the PaciBc railway is in operation, and San Francisco has be-
come, as it wore, a station on the high road to China and Japan, these
islands seem to be destined as a stopping place for the trans-oceanic steamers,
lying as they do immediately in this route, either fron thence or Panama.

The Winds, which are most prevalent on the Hawaiian Archipelago, are
those from tho north-eastward. This trade wind, Miich prevails for a great
portion of the year, is interrupted when the sun is in high South latitude,
or during the northern winter. From tho geographical position of the
islands near to tho tropic, the northern edge of the trade wind recedes to tho
southward of their latitude in this season, and then the anti-trade wind from
the westward, shifting between N.W. and S.W., is frequently heavy and
changeable, being a struggle between the two systems, and forming the equi-
valent to what are called the " horse latitudes," in the North Atlantic. They
bring abundant rain on to the opposite sides of the islands, which have the
rain during the summer months. These westerly winds set in usually in Ja-
nuary, and continue till the middle of April, or commencement of May, when
the trade wind again sets in.

The CLIMATE of the Sandwich Islands is generally temperate and healtliy,
for a sub-tropical region; it would appear to resemble that of the West In-
dies though more temperate in the higher lands, being not too hot to pre-

• When it is remembered that the commerce and productions of the volcanic island of
Mauritius in the same latitude South that these islands are North, aio at the present day
nearly thirty times greater than those of the Sandwich Islands, whilst tho latter have
several times greater area and available land, as well as greater diversity of climate and
resources it will bo readily seen what an opening is presented for future commerce, and
how valuable this trade may become to Great Britain, especially if Victoria be preserved
as a free port.-Jfr. Consul-Gmtvul Sywjc, I860.

THK SANDWKil ISLANDS.

E. I'acif"! witli

San Franciwo

igar), has much

jmpriwiiig about
?. or lid. peril),
is also largely
locks of meriTios,
? government by
J farm. Cotton
but was largely

ut 1 1 dollars, or
leet Welsh steam

rancisco has be-
ind Japan, these
oceanic steamers,
ce or Panama.
Archipelago, are
•evails for a great
1 South latitude,
,1 position of the
nd recedes to tho
i-trade wind from
uently heavy and
forming the equi-
Lh Atlantic. They
I, which have the
t in usually in Ja-
lent of May, when

3rate and healthy,
tofthe West In-
t too hot to pre-

he volcanic island of
e at the present day
whilst tho latter have
ersity of climate and
future commerce, and
Victoria be preserved

vent white men working, oven in agricultural pursuits. From the constunt
nature of the wind, the tomporature and cliniato gnnnrally vary on different
hides of tlie ishinds, and from their iuHiiIar cliaractnr and their great olevn
tion, the clouds are interoeptt'd, and rain is consoijuontly abundant in Honio
localitieH, and drought tho characteriHtic of otliors. Thus the North side of
Kauai is ii' cooler thiiu tho South side from this cause, and it rains ',) m<>ntlis
of the year, and from this tho country is clothed in perpetual green. On the
West side of Hawaii, on the otlier hand, rain soldom fulls on the coast, and
a rainy day once a year is considered remarkable. Tho range of the llier-
mometer on the windward side of the islands is from i>4 to Hti ; on lliu lee
side it seldom falls so low as the former temperature. Tho climate Ih
healthy, none of the intertropical diseases are known, nor do fever, ague,
or ciiolera occur.

Bishop Staley gives the following as a brief summary of tlii> climate.
Situated only just within tho limit of the nortliern tropic, and in the region
of the N.E. trades, which blow the greater part of the year, and convey the
ocean vapour, condensed into clouds, over the mountains and table lands,
then to fall in fertilizing showers ; the country enjoys a luxuriant and deli-
cious climate. The average annual temperature is 77 ' Fahr., witli only a
few degrees of variation above and below. But the local climates are varied,
depending on aspect and elevation. At Waimea, on a plateau about 4,000
feet above the sea level, in the North of Hawaii, a fire in your bed-room in
necessary. On the other hand the houses at Honolulu and many other places
are built without chimneys, no fires being needed at any period of tho year.
(Jenerally speaking, there is more rain on the windward than the leeward
sides of the island. Hence the rich hues of the eastern slopes of Hawaii,
covered with verdure and cultivation, contrast strongly with the bare and
arid look of the coast on the greater part of tho western side.

There is no tropical wet season, in the ordinary sense of the term — that is,
at the summer epoch. On the contrary, the wettest part of the year is when
the sun's vertical is farthest removed from the northern tropic, viz., in De-
cember and January. Then abundant rain falls, storms of groat violence,
called Konas, suddenly arise, and the inter-island navigation has to be sus-
pended (1868\

On the West side of Hawaii the land and sea-breezes are very regular ;
there are also strong North winds, but the most severe gales are those from
S.W., which as stated the natives term kona. These last from a few hours
to two or even three days, and are followed by rain ; they are seldom strong
enough to injure the houses.

The TIDES are comparatively inconsiderable, and, with the heavy swell
setting upon the outer reefs, difficult to estimate, but they are very regular,
flowing and ebbing six hours each. The flood comes from the eastward ; and
it is high water, at full and change of the moon, at S** 13'" apparent time.

>jPE«!eEBBIiHB9«;WK«ltaiS«lWS«»Ffl«Be!SSSJBSW^'3=S^

8.J4 TOE SANDWTCn ISLANDS.

Tlioir KVf'ntoHt rlso is 2 foot 7 in.-ho«, and tl.o wator ih nlwiiyn olmorvna to 1,n

4 inchoH higher wlion tho moon in above the horizon tlmn wlu-n it ih

Tho (umuENTs in tl.o imnu-diuto vicinity of the i^hinds ut lirst m«ht would
BOom to ho very tmrortain ; Boniotimos Betting to windward, and at otlior
timos to leeward, without any regularity. Thoy do not appear to bo go-
vornod by tho winda nor other cauBo ; thoy frequently Bot to windworcl

against a fresh breeze. .

But whatever may be tho irregularity of the current within tho influence
of the archipelago, a .ircumstanco related by Vancouver incontostably de-
monBtrates ihat, beyond them, they follow, at least at times, some general
law. When at -Kaui he saw a noble canoo, 61 i feet long, formed from a
single pine tree, which wood does not grow on the islands. Its origin was
more singular than the canoe itself. It was a tree drifted on to tho East
end of Kaui in a perfectly sound state, without a shako or a bruise. This
circumstance of fir timber being drifted on to tho northern sides of the
islands is by no moans uncommon, and but littlo doubt can be entertained
that they had come from the West coast of America. This would prove, as
would at once be supposed, that the usual current in the offing came

from N.E.

Another circumstance also boars with great weight upon the current driits
and tho direction of the winds. Un a former page we have noticed the
Bingular circumstance of the wreck of a Japanese junk near Cape Flattery,
in Oregon, in 1833. About the same time, a junk laden with fish, with nino
hands on board, left one of the southern islands of tho Japanese archipelago
for Jedo, but encountering a typhoon, was driven to sea. After wandering
about tho ocean for ten or eleven months, they anchored, on the last Sunday
of December, 1832, -^ear the Harbour of Waialea, Oahu. Th ) Hawaiians,
when they saw a strai., -eople, much resembling themselves in person and
in many of their habits, su. . Tt is plain now we come from Asia." How
far their unwilling course was m,^ 'rted by current of course c .ot be
exactly ascertained, but it would appear probable that, being blown off to
the northward, a current, relatively similar to tho Gulf Stream of the Atlantic,
may have carried them eastward, and then within range of the south-westerly
current, which drifts pine timber.

Sir Edward Belcher experienced a mXxoi^ curront to W.N. W. when off
Honolulu, and it frequently runs at the i-ato of IJ mile per hour. These
considerations must greatly influence ail navigation conducted between the

islands.

Eauthquakes are common, especially in Hawaii, where the volcanoes are
still in activity. Of course they are more severe in that island than in the
otliers, whore tho subterraneous fires seem to be extinct.

Several very severe visitations have been recorded since their discovery,

bsorvod to ho
m wlu'n it ih

t nii{lit would
and at otlior

mt to bo gi)-
to windward

the influonco
jntGstably de-

Bome general
brmed from a
[ts origin was
)n to the East
, bruise. This
1 sides of the
be entertained
ould prove, as
e offing came

» current drifts
ve noticed the
Cape Flattery,
fish, with nine
me archipelago
fter wandering
ho last Sunday
h ) Hawaiians,
I in person and
1 Asia." How
Lirse c -ot be
ig blown off to
of the Atlantic,
south-westerly

^J.W. when off
r hour. These
A between the

e volcanoes are
md than in the

their discovery,

TlIK SANinVlClI ISLANDS*.

H^5

and in some cases the plifiioimim, which have boon ciinifully iiliH,.rvod nnd
rocordiiil, iiU'ord voiy interesting subjottH im iho pliysicul gtographor. Tiif
earlier eruptions apparently anwo from Kilftueu, thoso of nwre recent timca
from Mauna Loa.

The first recorded is an oruption of Kilauvft i^ft 1789. but no particulnrH
worth rociting are stiitod in lonnoctiuu witiV it. The ne\i was an oruption
from the same volcano in 1«23, whou the lav* rtow<>d to th»> soa at 1'2 niilcs
from the equator. The third was in 1H;J'J, and was an orui)tion from Kilauca.
and also from the summit of Mauna Loa, whon lava llowud for two or three
weeks, and is supposed to have entered Kawaihao Bay. The fourth was on
May ;J0, 1810, when lavu llowod from the sido of Kilauoa, and formed a
stream 18 or 20 miles long.

The fifth oruption began on Mauna Loa on January 10th, 1812, when a
stream of lava issued from its summit, and, running northward, it divided,
one branch towards llilo, and a second towards Kawaihao. On Fob. 15th,
1852, another stream of lava issued from the same crater, and, with some
interruptions, continued for a month, but did not reach the sea.

A most alarming eruption from Mauna Loa comnioncod on August 11th,
1855, and the lava continued to How for thirteen mouths, \intil it covered
an area estimated at 300 square miles. Again, on Jan. 23rd, 1859, another
great stream of lava burst forth, and flowed for six months, reaching the sua
to tho S.W. of Kawaihao

The last and greatest eruption on record commenced by some slight pro-
monitions, in March, 18G8, by some earthquakes. These shocks became so
numerous that 2,000 were counted in a short space of time. Some of these
were very destructive, and accompanied by the great sea-wavo and a mud
oruption which swept away and buried villages, men, cattle, &c., and on tho
7th April, ten days after the first symptoms of tho convulsion, a new crater
opened on \o flank of Mauna Loa ; a stream of lava flowed into the soa
half-way b veen Apua and the southern point, the mud-flow meanwhile
wending its course to tho North of this direction. One of the fairest parts
of the island was thus in a single day converted into a black-looking, deso-
late tract of cinders and mud. In many places in Kau the ground has
opened, chasms of unknown depth have formed, whence sulphurous exhala-
tions are emitted ; a fissure, some miles in length, has extended inland from
the coast, crossing one of the island high roads, and so deflecting it that
what were contrary sides before are, at the point of breakage, now in ono
and the same straight line. The floor of the crater in the Kilauea volcano
has sunk considerably. At Lahaina, upwards of 100 miles from the starting
point of the eruption, the column of cloud ascending from it was observed
under an angle of 3" 30', which (allowing for 500 feet of altitude, tho position
of tho observer) indicated a height of nearly 8 miles. So vast a body of
vapour rushing visibly upwards with tremendous rapidity, proved the pre-

-jvmsssiBsifi^s^v^iiaaa^sBs^jmviiomfismeikmf-''

r.Tat<rr»3as>5Stf «;5~-«5'=s 5:rT-.!^--»::jT«vff u

826 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

nenco of an immense heat at its base ; the great rarefaction by heat of tho
air near the new crater would cause a powerful upward draught; then the
CO' 1 ait, charged with the vapours of the surrounding sea, must rush m.
For days after tho eruption, the leeward islands were enveloped not only
in a close oppressive atmosphere, but in clouds and heavy rains. A very
distinct odour of sulphurous acid was perceptible at Honolulu 180 m.les dis-
tant, two days after the eruption. The earthquakes were contmued at in-
tervals for some months.

The archipelago consists of twelve islands, which were discovered Vy Cc^k
in his last voyage ; and to these may be added two small ones to the N.W,
seen at later periods. Of these six are uninhabited and are barren rocks.
They will all be described in order, commencing with the S.E.

Throughout the archipelago there is every evidence of their upheaval, and

the dates of these elevations are manifest in the conditions of the dififerent

islands. Those to the westward are the most ancient, Nihoa and Niihau are

the oldest; Kaui, Molokai, and Maui follow ; and Hawaii, the largest and

most recent, is stiU in activity. But although it is asserted that the western

islands are the oldest, it may not be strictly correct, except in the sense that

the evidence of recent volcanic action is least evident there. But everywhere

there are marks of a gradual or convulsive elevation of the group. On

Molokai, in the middle of the islands, coral is found at 500 feet elevation,

and in Kaui coral beds lie at 4,000 feet above the sea. It is in Hawaii

itself, however, that the grandest evidence of the plutonic origin of the

islands is most evident and active. In tho other islands lava streams and

extinct craters are recognisable, but in tho great island some of the most

terrible phenomena of volcanic disturbance have been shown in late years,

as will be briefly noticed in the description of that island.

There is very great variation botween the orthography used by the eariy
voyagers and that subsequently adopted by the missionaries on a more inti-
mate knowledge of the language. The latter mode is, of course, to bo con-
sidered as the correet one, and is that placed first in these pages.

HAWAII, the south-eastern, and by much the largest of the group, is
called Owhyhee by Cook and others. Kotzebue calls it WaM; Freyciuet
and others, Oiehyhi. All these words are representations of the same sound.

Hawaii i's of a triangular form ; the West side, running generally North
and South, is 100 miles in length ; the N.E. 'side is 84 miles, and the S.E.
side is 64 miles long; so that its whole circumference may be taken as 250
geographical, or 288 British statute, miles.

The mountains of Hawaii do nut ascend in peaks, as do many other vol-
canic islands, such as Eiraeo or Teneriffe, but rise gradually a id compara-
tively uubruken, particularly from the southern ehur« to the lofty summit oi

m by heat of thf>
Taught ; then the
Ba, must rush in.
aveloped not only
jy rains. A very
iiihi 180 miles dis-
3 continued at in-

jscovered Vy Cook
ones to the N.W ,

are barren rocks.
3.E.

lieir upheaval, and
as of the different
Loa and Niihau are
lii, the largest and
d that the western
•t in the sense that
). But everywhere
of the group. On
500 feet elevation,
a. It is in Hawaii
onic origin of the
i lava streams and

some of the most
town in late years,

Y used by the early
ries on a more inti-
' course, to bo con-
I pages.

aat of the group, ia
JFahi; Freyciuet
I of the same sound,
ig generally Noi-th
miles, and the S.E.
lay be taken as 250

do many other vol-
iially a, id couipara-
I the lofty summit ot

MAUNA LOA. SJ7

Mimna Loa. Its appearunco altogether is less romantic and picturesque than
Tahiti, but it is more majestic and grand.

There are but few inland c^^tlements on the East and N.W. parts of the
island, but in general tho interior is an uninhabited wilderness. There is a
vast central valley between the three great mountains. This central part is
a great desert of lava, of every known kind. It is only the northern plain,
the eastern slope, and some portions of the South and West, which are pro-
ductive, and wbdre are to be found sugar estates, and cattle "ranches" and
sheep runs equal to any in the world.

There are three principal mountains in Hawaii, Mauna Kea in the N.E.,
Mauna Hualali in the N.W., and Mauna Loa in the South. As stated on
a former page, they are active outlets of the subterranean fires which have
formed the archipelago.

The general direction of this, parallel co the great mountain chains of
America on the one hand, and nearly that of Kamtschatka, to which quarter
it is directed, seems to indicate some general law in the stiucture of the
cartli, or that some fissures in the crust exist in this region of it.

Matina Kea is less evidently an active volcano than the others. It con-
sists almost entirely of scorise, without any apparent craters. It may be
characterized as a vast mound, surmoimted with nine cones, the southern-
most of which is the highest. Perhaps these cones may be considered as
craters. Alihough a sister mountain to Mauna Loa, it is of very different
form and apparent composition. On its summit frosts prevail, and vegetation
continues up to within 1,000 feet of its summit, and even higher. The plants
also differ. Their height is singularly equal, not being more than 193 feet
higher than the summit of Mauna Loa, or 13,953 feet, according to the
measurement of Commodore Wilkes in 1841, which is 300 feet higher than
previous estimates (13,645 feet).

Mauua Huahali, or Euarari (or Worroray, as it is called by Vancouver),
although not of such gigantic proportions as the other two principal moun-
tains, is yet very conspicuous. On [its summit is a very extensive crater,
which has been instrumental in wonderfully changing the surface of tho
surrounding country. Besides the central spiracle, handreds of cone craters,
or hills of scoriaceous lava, may be seen from its summit, like excrescences
on its sides. Its height is given as 7,322 feet.

Mauna Loa was from Cook's first estimate considered to be one of the
highest mountains in the world. Although his calculation was in excess, it
is still to be ranked with the loftiest. Its form is unique, and has been in-
creasing, and is perhaps entirely formed from the overflow of its terminal
crater. Its form is that of an extensive flattened dome, falling very gradu-
ally on its northern and eastern sides. Its summit was ascended, and nu-
nioroua observations made hero by the U.S. Exploring Expedition, in 1841.
Tho highest part of the edge of the summit crater was then found to be

.■fc«w'*^wi^He^;?K:?TTcsrty^5W-'^'*<^'>T»r.>-'^w^^«^^;■*r*'^^ '--••' -

goft THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

1 3 7G() foet above the soa. The trater is a most extensive one, and possesses
all those wonderful characteristics which have been so frequently descnbod.
This is the rrlncipal spiracle of Hawaii, and its recent eruptions have been
among the most violent on record, as described on page 825. ihi. active
volcano and its destructive effects renders this principal island m a great
measure uninhabitable, and discourages any attempt at colonization.

The KUauea or Kirmmh Volcano lies on the side, as it were, and to the
S E of Mauna Loa. It is merely an immense crater, 3J miles long, 2 J miles
wide and over 1,000 feet deep. The bottom in the daytime looks like a
heap of smouldering ruins ; what i. wonderful in the day becomes ten times
more so at night. The height of this singular volcano above the sea was
found to be 3,970 feet. To the S.E. of it is a lino of craters, from some of
which a great eruption occurred May 31. 1840. Having thus described
briefly and imperfectly these, the most wonderful features of the Tacific, we
pass on to the coast, commencing with the S.E.

Kapoho Point is the easternmost projection of tho island. The country is
exceedingly fertile; sugar-cane grows here in abundance, coffee succeeds
well, as do indigo and tacca, from which arrow-root is made. The coast to
the N W. is a precipitous shore, about 15 feet high, on which the sea beats
with violence at all times. It is bestrewed with lava streams, apparently of
old date. At 3 miles from the East point is Puna, where there is a large
church but no village, as the houses are much scattered. Kanahh, a small
village, is li mile from Puna, and 3 miles further is a spot where an exten-
Bive stream of lava enters the sea, called Nmavulie. Trior to the eruption
in 1840 the coast was a continuous lava cliff; now the site is occupied by
three sand-hills, formed by the lava stream, of very singular formation, the
highest 250 feet. There is no appearance of shoal water opposite, though

Buch was stated to be the case. . , , ,, , , r „„„

HILO. Waiaha, or Byron^s Bay, is the first, indeed the only place of con-
«onuence, on this side of the island to the seaman. The bay has been
variously named. Lord Byron calls it Uido, after the village m the bottom
of the bay Lieut. Maiden calls it after another village, Wamha ; and the
third is from the name of the British commander who first anchored here,
but is not now thus known among the natives.

Ililo the second town in population and commercial importance m the
Hawaiian Islands, is situated on a beautiful bay of the same name^on the
windward side of Hawaii. The bay of Hilo was formerly called Waiakea,
and frequently Byron's Bay, but the present native name, being to he
.' manor born," and more appropriate, has by general consent superseded
the others. It is in North lat. 19= 45' and 155° 6' West longitude from
(Ircenwich. The anchorage is good and the harbour capacious. The cres-
cont shore slopes to the water'« edge, where it terminates in a regular sandy
beach. The boat landing is excellent.

and possessos
itly deaciibod.
ma have been
. Thit active
,nd in a great
nation.

ire, and to the
I long, '2 J miles
e looks iiko a
)mes ton times
^e the soa was
from some of
thus described
the Pacific, we

The country is
coffee succeeds
The coast to
h the sea beats
3, apparently of
here is a large
anakiki, a small
'here an cxten-
to the eruption
9 is occupied by
• formation, the
ipposite, though

ily place of con-
e bay has been
;e in the bottom
Vaiakea ; and the
t anchored here,

aportance in the
ne name, on the
called Waiakea,
ne, being to the
Qseut superseded
it longitude from
uious. The cres-
n a regular sandy

HILO.

S'J'J

The population of Hilo proper at tlio last censuH, as noar as can bo ascer-
tained, was 1750. Of this, the active business portion is composed of fo-
reigners. The Americans are more numerous, about 75 in number, and there
are many Chinese of tlio bettor class.

There are two substantial churches in ITilo. The Protestant churcli is
large, indeed sulliciently commodious for the entire population of Hilo. The
Koman Catholic church is also commodious, well constructed, and roofed
with slate. It is finely situated, with its white towers and bolfriea, sur-
mounted by two crosses directly in front of the harbour. There are several
schools, stores, an iron foundry, and all other accessories of civilization.

Tlie harbour of Hilo, with little expense, could be made one of the safest
and most commodious in the Pacific. By constructing a breakwater on the
reef, northward from the point beyond Waiakea, the harbour would be per-
fectly safe, land-locked, and sheltered at all times. This could be easily
effected by building a tram railway, and by means of cars, which could
transport the abundan', hard, volcanic material near at hand, upon tho
reef. It is but a short distance to immense beds of basaltic, vitreous, and
vesicular lava, which 'could resist the action of water for ages. Tho convict
labour of the island would be sufficient to accomplish tlio work in a few
years, and render Hilo a port where all the shipping of the Pacific could
ride securely at anchor. It is now more capacious than any other bay
or harbour on the island, and it is not subject to violent gales from any
quarter.

There is a good watering-place up Waterfall Creek, within the mouth of
the Waialuku Eiver, which is generally easy of access, except when the
wind is blowing hard from the north-eastward ; on such occasions the surf is
high, and the rocky bar at the entrance then becomes dangerous for boats
to pass. The water is excellent and abundant.

The best landing-place is southward of Cocoa-nut Island, in the S.E.
corner of the bay, but it is easy to land on the beach in proper boats.

Light. — In 1869 a lighthouse was erected on Paukaa Point, at the en-
trance. It shows a fixed white light, elevated 50 feet above the sea, and in
clear ,,'eather should be seen from a distance of 10 miles. From the light-
honfa'", 'Je outer point of the reef bears S.E. by E., the inner point of tho
V': i' ,S.i- • .,, Leleiwi Point E. by S., and Makahanaloa Point N. i W.

W '■ S.^o no directions in connection with this light, but it will be very
Bervio.'ule.

The » ,'1 ' ing directions are by Lieut. Maiden : —

H.M.f). Blonde, as before stated, was the first man-of-war that ever en-
tered this bay, and hence it was called after her commander. The western
side 'uns nearly North and South, about 9 miles ; the eastern E.N.E. and
W c». VV., about one-third that distance. Tho anchorage, in 6 or 7 fathoms,
'jCiff muddy bottom, ^is protected from the N.E., to which it is apparently

lararafnBBSSsnartMsiAWijiBwia-'r ■« "

I Liai 'Tll ffw ■ ■ , ' Jmtf-l w w w * jf w a. '

S;,o THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

open, by a coral reef, half a mile in l.reaath, extending from the eastern
pointinaW.N.W. direction, two-thirda across the bay, leaving a channel
three-quarters of a mile broad between it and the West shore, with 10 and
11 fathoms in it. When the wind blows strong, a heavy surf l^^eaks "pon
the reef, but inside it is smooth. It is only exposed between N. to W. by N.,
from which quarter the wind never blows hard in summer, and but very
rarely in the winter; only one northerly gale had been felt in two years
The surrounding scenery is the most beautiful in the Sandwich Islands but
the climate is wet, showers occurring daily. Watering is very read.ly done
in the S.W. extremity of the bay.

In steering for the anchorage, with the sea-broeze, when about 3 miles
from the bottom of the bay you will be outside the reef, in 25 to 30 fathoms.
The West shore must then be kept close on board. The leading marks for
the channel, to clear the West end of the lilonde Reef, are these :-Koep
the huts on the West side of Waterfall Creek on with the emtem side of a
remarkable green hill (an extinguished volcano), impossible to bo mistaken
bearing -by compass - P.W. i W., till the Turret Roch (about 15 feet high)
bears W by S. 4 S., v i will be in 7 or 8 fathoms, stiff muddy bottom.

The whole of the Weet c -s composed of cliffs, the huts standing upon
the last and most southerly v.«ible cliff. When upon the West extremity of
the Blonde Eeef, the above huts are in one with the weBtern side of the green
hiU bearing 8. 29° W., by compass ; and at the same time the centre of the
same hill is on with the left of two very distant hummocks. These are fre-
Quently obscured by haze, or they would be the best marks. When at the
North extreme of the reef a deep inlet, called Cocoa-mt Cove, in consequence
of there being a group of these trees at the entrance, is quite open, bearing
West by North. As there are no dangers in the channel, and it is more
than three-quarters of a mile wide, there is quite room to beat any vessel
out against the sea-breeze, and which, if it be fresh and steady, is preferable
tolling out at daylight with the land wind. The land wind frequently
leaves you in the lurch, and you are obliged to come to in deep water, to
prevent being driven upon the rocky cliffs of the West coast. Indeed, in
turning out of the bay. with a good strong sea-breeze, as soon as you are to
windward of the reef, she should keep beating to windward m a N.E. or
N E by E. direction, not attempting to weather the North point of the bay
(Point Blonde) until it can be done with certainty, at the distance of 5 or 6
Li^^aUel ; for, when at 3 or 4 miles to the North of Cocoa-nut Cove,
Lre is no bottom with 50 fathoms, although within half a mile of shore.
So that, should a vessel in this situation be becahned. her state would be
„ost d^gerous, aheavy sweU and current constantly setting against the
prlitouf cliffs. Cocoa- nut Island is in lat. 19° 43' 51« N., long. (East of
Karakakoa) 0» 52' 50". Tide rises about 4 feet, high water at sunset, and
low water at daylight, being influenced by the sea and land breezes.

HILO.

831

n the eastern
ing a channel
, with 10 and
■ breaks upon
. to W. by N.,
and but very
in two years.
h Islands, but
f readily done

about 3 miles
to 30 fathoms.

iug marks for
these :— Keep

Htern side of a

bo mistaken,
t 15 feet high)
muddy bottom.

standing upon
)8t extremity of
ide of the green
le centre of the

These are fre-
When at the

in consequence
e open, bearing

and it is more
beat any vessel
dy, is preferable
wind frequently

1 deep water, to
ast. Indeed, in
>n as you are to
ard in a N.E. or
point of the bay
istance of 5 or 6
Cocoa-nut Cove,
f a mile of shore,
r state would be
tting against the
'i., long. (East of
;er at sunset, and
I breezes.

Captain Wilkes remarks : — As respects the Bay of Hilo, I cannot but view
it as a safe anchorage. We were detained there about three months, and
never had a gale strong enough to ride our anchors, though these were the
winter months, December, January, and February. At times, however,
there was a considerable swell rolling in, .so as to make it uncomfortable on
board ship. The weather was not so rainy as was anticipated, and some
most delightful weather was oxperienced in February.

The whole settlement forms a pretty cluster ; the paths and roadsides are
planted with pine-apples, and tlie .soil tioveifd with a rank vegetation.
Waiakea Point is on the opposite side of the bay from Hilo, at rather more
than a mile oflf ; the path between leads along a sandy beach, on which the
surf continually breaks, and at times with great violence.

" The scene which the island presents, as viewed from the anchorage in
Hilo Bay, is both novel and splendid ; tho shores are studded with extensive
groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, interspersed with plantations of
sugar-cane. Thi-ough these numerous streams are seen hurrying to the
ocean ; to this succeeds a belt of some miles in width, free from woods, but
clothed in verdure ; beyond is a wider belt of forest, whoso trees, as they
rise high from tlie sea, change their character from the vegetation of the
tropics to that of the polar regions ; and, above all, tower the snow-capped
summits of the mountains." — (Wilkes, vol. iv. p. 110.)

Hilo, viewed from the harbour, presents much the same tropical appear-
ance as other parts of the islands, and as a panoramic view it is not surpassed
in beauty and grandeur of scenery by any other spot in the kingdom. There
is a luxuriousness and freshness in the vegetation, a living green in the
verdure and foliage, that combine to present an almost perfect picture. The
crescent sweep of the bay, ending with the cluster of cocoa-nuts on the
island, the towering heights of Mauna Kea behind, the majestic dome of
Mauna Loa, all help to form a landscape scene seldom equalled.

The following remarks are by Mr. H. Thompson, R.N., master of H.M.S.
Talbot, which was here in Jane, 1845 : —

After a passage of eight days (from Honolulu) we arrived off Byron Bay,
where we took on board a pilot, about 8 miles off shore. The sea-breeze
gradually fell light as we entered within the limits of the bay, and continued
to blow (but very feebly) just sufficient to give the ship steerage way ; but
the swell assisted the vessel in, '"hen we anchored in 5 fathoms water, and
afterwards moored with 70 fathoms on best bower to N.E., and 40 fathoms
on small bower to 8.W., with the following bearings, viz., Cocoa-nut Point
E. by N. i N., the thatched native chapel on with North side of Green Hill
S.W., and Red Clifif Point N. i W.

The anchorage in Byron Bay is open to all winds from North to E. by N.,
being only sheltered in that direction by an extensive sunken reef (Blonde
Iteef), on which the depth of water varies from 9 to 6 fathoms, and which

I 1

, Iff nfi jm w wim t'.aifffjgw5a4BCT>;3

832 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Bufficiontly brcalts the soa to render a ship comparatively safe behind it.
The pilot told mo that during his residence (twenty years) here ho had soon
some very strong gales from the N.E., but had never known any vessel
suffer by them ; yet I am of opinion that on such occasions a vessel would
find it very heavy riding, and should bo provided with good ground tackle.

A ship of any size may anchor here in from 4 to 9 fathoms water.

There is seldom any difficulty experienced in entering this bay, as the soa-
breeze blows right in, and should it be over so light, with the assistance oi'
the swell astern, and boats towing if necessary, the anchorage will l;e gained
in safety. But the ogress is not so easy ; it is often attended with difficulty,
and sometimes with risk. The channel between the roof and the shore is
narrow, rather too much so to allow a square-rigged vi .1 to work through,
unless she be a small one, and then it should be only with a commanding

breeze.'

To sail out of Byron Bay a vessel should start with the first of the land-
breeze, which generally comes off soon after midnight, so as to get a good
offing before it ceases, otherwise, if daylight is waited for, the land wind
will seldom hold long enough to take a vessel sufficiently off shore to leave
her in a safe position ; and should the sea-breeze fail to blow home to tho
coast during the day, which not unfrequently happens, thereby leaving her
exposed, helpless, to a heavy swell setting directly towards the reef, a vessel's
own boats' towing would have but little effect against it. There is a deep-
water anchorage outside the reef, and there is also anchorage in the channel
in 10 to I'i fathoms ; but both these anchorages are unsafe when blowing

fresh.

The similarity of the coast and the want of remarkable objects in the
vicinity of this bay, prevents me from describing any conspicuous marks that
would guide a vessel to or from the anchorage. The general rule for ap-
proaching the anchorage is to close the land a little to the northward, and
run down along shore rather within the distance of half a mile, which will
lead a vessel a little inside the North extremity of the reef which forms the
channel ; this reef may be seen from a slight elevation above the deck.
There is a long gulley running up the land in a southerly direction from
Coooa-nut Cove, which forms a good object to steer for when once made out,
as it leads close to the entrance of the channel ; it appears like a dark mark
in the land, and there is nothing in that vicinity that resembles it.

The coast to the northward of Hilo is somewhat peculiar ; it is a steep
bluff, rising about 200 feet; this is cut into small breaks, called here
" gulches," within which the villages are generally situated, and the natives
grow bananas and tare. These gulches are ravines from 800 to 1,000 feet
deep, which have been apparently worn by water-courses. There is no
landing for boats, for all along the coast the surf beats on the rocks with
great violence.

fe behind it.
ho had soon
m any vessel
vessel would
und tackle,
ater.

y, as the soa-
assistauco oi'
?^ill l;e gained
ith difficulty,
1 the shore is
rork through,
> commanding

of the land-
;o get a good
lie land wind
hore to leave

home to tho
y leaving hex*
reef, a vessel's
lere is a deep-
a the channel
irhen blowing

objects in the
lus marks that
1 rule for ap-
>rthward, and
le, which will
lioh forms the
ove the deck,
direction from
ince made out,
3 a dark mark
8 it.

; it is a steep
i, called here
,nd the natives
Oto 1,000 feet
There is no
bhe rocks with

IT A WAIT. s:M

ThisiV'Z foa^f of n.iwaii, beyond Hih. Bay, is a lee shoi-, witliout
shelter or nnchornge. Tlie coast is Grm nn^ fompact, torininatiuf,' -enorally
in steep rocky cliUs, with a few small indented l.nys, rendered oiisilv arcessi-
ble to the native eanoes by tlie sandy beaches that bound tln^m. Vrnm thoso
rugged rocky cliffs many streams of water fall, in cascades or otherwise, info
the ocean.

Laupa/m is about (1 miles northward of Ililo. It is the frroat pulu dopOt
for this side of the mountain, and is a pleasant-looking hamlet, situated at
tlie mouth of a deep ravine.

Captain Sir Edward Belcher approached these islands from the E.S.E.
July 7, 18,17, and passing witliin ;5 or I miles of tho breaker line, witnessed
these numerous cascades resulting from the showers emanating from tlie
heavy clouds which capped the summits of Maui and Hawaii. " No de-
scription can convoy the idea of the number and variety of tho silver
threads which they exhibited ; and a sketch, including twenty leaps within
100 or 2- 1 yards, would appear almost a burlesque, yet such was the fact."

The southern portion of this section of the land has a very dreary aspect ;
Vancouver says it was perfectly uncultivated, and nearly destitute of habita-
tions ; those which are to be seen are small, and thinly scattered. Advancing
to the N.W., tho population and cultivation increase. At about 5 leagues
from ITealal-aka Point, which is called by Vancouver the N.E. point, the coast
is composed of a cluster of remarkably high, steep, rugged, and romantic
cliffs, discharging from their naked summits many rapid cataracts into the
ocean. The rushing of these impetuous torrents down the black, barren
surface of the rocky cliffs, contrasted with the enchanting, cultivated, and
populous country to the East and West, and behind this dreary frontier, for
a considerable distance up the sides of the lofty mountains, on approaching
them in the offing present a very beautiful and picturesque appearance"
Nearly in the centre of these cliffs is a tolerably deep, small bay, off the
Waimanu Valley, much resembling in appearance, and most other respects,
the bay in the island of St. Helena ; but it seems too much exposed to the
sea and the prevalent wind to be an eligible place for shipping. At 8 miles
to the westward of this bay, off the western extremity of these cliffs, lie some
rocky islets, a little distance from the land.

Westward of these cliffs there are soundings off shore, as Vancouv.er found
7 fathoms at 2 miles off, the North (West) point bearing S. 70° W., 9 miles
distant. The sea breaks with great violence near the shore at this part, and
so continues all the way to the N. W. point of the island. There was a very
heavy, confused, irregular sea, which was suspected to arise from a very
sudden decrease in its depth, and the effects of a strong gale.

ITpolu Point is the N.W. point of Hawaii. Tho land here falls in a
gradual descent from the base of the mountains, and forms an e.xtensivo
2t'u)-th Pacific. a „

. . "^pn^f vTwj?,"^?*^

g34 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

plain towards the wator sitlo, wliich seomed to be iu a Ui-li state of cultiva-
tion, and abounds witli native houses.

The Kohala didrid lies on the North point ol Hawaii, and is divided from
that of Waimea by a ranpe of mountains. The soil on tho locward shoro is
ban-on from ;5 to o milos inland. On tho windward shore it is of t?o..d
quality quite to tho boach. The face of the country is regular, gradually
ascending from tho coast to tho summit of tho high lands. Kohala is th.-
principal place in tho district.

There aro soundings off tho const to tho southward of Upolu Point. Van-
couver anchored here about 7 miles from the point, iu -11 fathoms, but drovo
off the bank in tho nij^ht with a gust of wind from the land. On this ac-
count it is objoctionahlo; it is exposed to the North winds, which, witii
those that blow from the N.W., aro tho most violent and dangerous known
in this country.

Kawaihae Bay, Towaihai, Toeaigh (Vancouver), or Toe-yah-yah (King), is
16 miles South of Upolu Point. Captain King says this extensive bay is
bounded to the North by two very conspicuous hills. Towards tho botto7n
of the bay thore is foul corally ground, tho soundings arfl regular, with
good anchorage in 20 fathoms. Captain Wilkes says of this part :— The
district of Waimea is situated on the N.W. side of the island. So much of
the soil of this distri' + as lies along tho coast, though rich, is badly watered,
and 7 or 8 miles in a interior from Kawaihae Bay, it becomes exceedingly
rocky and barren. The high land to the eastward of Kawaihae causes
almost a perpetual calm. The mourn in region is rocky, and has a burnt
appearance, until the eastern side of the mountain is reached, when a dense
forest and a most luxuriant vegetation succeed. The^climate of this district
iH, upon the whole, unpleasant, particularly at Waimea, in consequence of
the trade-wind, which is exceedingly strong, bringing with it a mist towards
sunset This wind rushes furiously down between the mountains which
bound the valley of Waimea, and becomes very dangerous to shipping in
the bay. It is called by tho natives " Mumuku," and is foretold by them
from an illuminated streak that is seen far inland. This is believed to be
caused by tho reflection of tho twilight on the mist that always accompanies
tho Mumuku.

■ Tho productions of Waimea are tho same as those of the other districts,
but it also abounds in timber of good size and quality for building. This
was tho famous sandal-wood district, whence Kamehameha (the king) pro-
cured the cargoes ho sold for the Canton market. There are no trees left
now larger than more saplings. Waimea was also the principal place of
export for hides, tallow, and beef. Of the.se articles only a small amount is
now exported, owuig to tlif (abu on cattle.

Light.— A lircd white light is now exhibited as a guide to tho anchorage

--OT ' t-W-

itato of cultivn-

is (liviilod from
ocwiird shorn is
ro it is of j?ootl
:ular, gradually
Koliala is tin-

ilu Point. Van-
honis, but drove
id. On this ac-
ds, which, witli
mgerous known

th-7jah (King), is
jxtensivo bay is
ards tho botto7n
irfl regular, with
this part: — The
nd. So much of
8 badly watered,
mes exceedingly
^awaihae causes
and has a burnt
3d, when a dense
te of this district
a consequence of
it a mist towards
mountains which
us to shipping in
foretold by them
is believed to be
vays accompanies

;he other districts,
)r building. This
la (the king) pro-
I are no trees left
principal place of
a small amount is

3 to tho anchorago

HAWAII

83.)

of Knwaihao, olovntcd about flO foot above tho sea, and in donr wontlun"
should bo seen from a distance of 10 miles.

From tho N.E. rornor of tho reof tho li^lit boars N.E. b)* N. J N. ; with
the light hearing E.N.E. there is good anchorago about a quarter of a milo
from the shore.

Vancouver anchored in this bay February 14, 1703, and again on Febru-
ary 28, 1791, ia 25 fathoms, on a bottom of fine brown sand and mud in flu*
first visit, and on a stiff clay and good holding-ground on tho second, fho
jtoints of the bay bearing N. 30^ W. and S. 31'' W. ; tho Morai, which is
also conspicuous in pointing out the station, N. fiS*^ E. ; and tho watering-
pi aco at the distance of about 1} milo, lioing the nearest shore, S. 7!)' E.
The Morai is a conspicuous object, and a good leading mark into the an-
chorage ; it stands o:i a barren eminence to the southward of the village,
and is to bo kept on a line with a small saddle hill, on tho eastern land,
descending from the higher parts, over the village of Toeaigh, on tho North
side of the bay. Its South point, descending gradually from Ilualalai, and
forming a low point, bore by compass 8. 31'^ W. ; within this point, on tho
rising land, are some elevated hummocks ; the third of these, from the point
forming a kind of saddle hill in a line with a low, projecting, black, rocky
point, in the middle of the bay, bearing S. 22° W., is a further direction,
and a cross mark for this anchorage. On sounding round the ship, about a
fourth of a mile to tho S.W., a very small patch of coral rocks Mas found,
where the water was only 10 fathoms in depth, but increased suddenly to 20
fathoms all around it. This was afterwards found to have only 3 fathoms
in one part. On tho opposite side, however, was dear, good anchorago
for about a mile, where many vessels might ride without inconvonienco from
the bottom, though nevertheless exposed to the violence of tho winds and
sea between the limits above mentioned, comprehending 113° in the western
quarter.

Tho shoal is a very gi-eat inconvenience to the roadstead, which is at best
but a very indifferent one, being entirely exposed to tho N.W. winds and
the western oceanic swell, which beats with groat violence on the reefs en-
compassing the shores. The only advantageous <!ircunistances are the run
of water, which, however, does not always flow, and tho probability of pro-
curing refreshments, from its contiguity to the populous and fertile western
part of the Koarra district, and the plains of Waiinea lying behind the
land constituting the sea-coast.

The watering-place is in a small sandy bay, where, over a spa<!e of 20
yards of rugged rocks and stoTU'S, a fnie strcaiu empties itnelf, whoso water
is easily to bo procured by landing tho casks on tho sandy beach, au 1 having
the water brought in smaller vessels to fill them, a service in which the na-
tives would be useful.

Vancouver says : — '' Toeaigh (Ivawaihae) is situatiil in a yvuve of coooa-

;; u 2

at»>i f i .>» r§ ,!m im M w mma Lt r ^ ii

«;',(»

THE SANDWUnJ ISLANDS.

nut treofl, juBt behind a mintly point. A ronf of «oral rorks, pxtonilinn tlicnco
about three-quarters of a mile into tlie bpe, rondored it inaceoBsible to our
boats in a direct line, but we landed very commodiously in a narrow channel
betw^on the roof and tho shoro, near the Morai, to the S.E. of the beach.
The village only consisted of straggling houses ; in tho contro of them was a
reservoir of salt wiitor, from which salt was made."

From tho bottom of tho bay the coast extends for about 28 miles in an
irregular S.W. direction to tht> westernmost point of Hawaii, Kiinhnio Point.
It does not appear to alTord any shelter or interest to tho mariner.

The great lava stream which ilowed from the summit of Mauna I^oa in
January— J ul.\, 18<>U, reached the sea about 15 miles to tho S.W. of Kawai-
hae, and considerably altt>red tho features of the coast.

Tho S.W. side of the island is termed the district of Kona (or Akona), and
includes Kealakekua and Kairua or Kailau.

The district of Kailau is similar in character to that of Kealakekua, but
the lava is of a more recent formation, the eruptions from Ttlauna Hualalai
having flowed down and covered nearly tho whole northern portion. This
eruption happened in 1809 and 1810. Tho mountain is 7,822 feet high, and
rises abruptly on its West side.

This being tho lee side of the island, as explained in a former passage,
rain very seldom falls here, and this, with tho absence of all dew, does not
allow of much cultivation. There is coarse herbage enough for slight pas-
turage near tho shore, but further inland it becomes better, and tho taro
and broad-fruit are abundant. Land and sea breezes are very regular, and
are tho prevalent winds.

Kailua, Kairua, or, as it is called by "Vancouver, Tyahtatooa Bay, is in
this district, miles from the AVest point. In Moares's account of Captain
Douglas's voyage this bay is considered equal or superior to that of Keala-
kekua but Vancouver's closer examination led him to a different conclusion.
It is but a slight bend in the general lino of coast, not more than 2 cables'
lengths in depth, according to Captain Duperrey's chart, and scarcely de-
serving the name of a bay. Vancouver anchored with the northernmost
point bearing N. 69° W., by compass; the village, called Ane-oo-rooa, being
the nearest shore, N. 30" E., about half a mile distant, and the point of
Kowrooa (Kolui), S. 22° E. This was as close to the shore as prudence
■woiild allow them to lie, and the bottom in all directions appeared to con-
sist of a mixture of rocks and sand. A considerable swell rolled in from
westward, and by the beaten appearance of the rocks that chiefly compose
the shore, this seemed to be in general the case, and for that reason aot a
very eligible place for shipping. It has, however, one superiority over Kea-
lakekua in respect of landing. This convenience is produced by the jutting
out of two points ; between these is a small cove, defended by some rocks
lying before it, which break the violence of the surf, and render communi-

tomling tlionco
cOBsiblo to om-
larrow channel
. of the hencli.
of thorn was ii

28 niil<«8 in an
Kiudiuio Point,
nor.

Mcuna lioa in
I.W. of Kawni-

^or Akona), and

ealakekua, but

anna TTualalai

portion. This

! feet high, and

bnner passage,
dew, dona not
1 for slight pas-
r, and the taro
ry regular, and

ztooa Bay, is in
ount of Captain
J that of Koala-
irent conclusion,
e than 2 cables'
ind scarcely de-
16 northemnaost
e-oo-rooa, being
nd the point of
jre as prudence
ppeared to con-
l rolled in from
chiefly compose
lat reason aot a
•iority over Kea-
d by the jutting
1 by some rocks
endor communi-

FiAWAir ''ir

r.ition witli tlie shorn vpry (<inimi»dion8. Tho landlnj; i.s on a simly boa. h,
before a grove of cocoa-nnf, brnad-friiit, and olhnr trees, in the midst <>f
which tlin viiiiigo is situatt'd. On a point on the Wont hIiIk is the tnnib of
King Kamohaniehu, whicli is placed by Diipi'i-roy in lat. 10^ ;!" JO' N., long,
l.'ifi" 1 W. Toward the South part of tliis covn is a spring, which rose very
rapidly from amongst some rocks fhat are gnnnrally covdrcii wifh tho »*>\i
water; but when this is low, which is Hometinios tlio <asi\ it is foimd fo
produce a stroiim of oxccllont fresh water ; by ]iropnr means there is no doubt,
but that it mi)j;ht bo uiado available for tho iioi;{lib(iurliood and .sliip|iiii;;.
Wilkes says that this place had thriven greatly from tho industry em Duraged
by the native gcjvernor of Hawaii.

The next district, or ratlior portion of tho district of Kona, is that of
Keahikekua, or Karakakooa, whicli lies to tiio southern trnd of the preceding.
Wilkes describes it tlius: — "Almost tho whole const of tliis district, extend-
ing 10 miles, is one line of lava. Tliis fre<iuently lies in largo masses for
miles in extent, and is in others partially broken, oxhibititifj; perpendicular
cliffs, against which the sea dashes with fury. This formation extends half
a milo into the interior, and as tho distance from the sea increases, tho soil
becomes richer and more productive. Tho face of the country, even within
this rocky barrier, is rough, and covered with blocks and beds of lava, moro
or loss decomposed. Tho land in places reaches tho altitude of 2,(100 feet,
and at the distance of 2 miles from tho coast begins to be well covered with
woods of various kinds of trees, which are almost rendered impas.sablo by an
undergrowth of vines and I'erns. In these woods there are many cleared
spots, which have the appearance of having been formerly cultivated, or
having been burnt by tho descending streams of lava. In some places these
strips of wood descend to withm a milo of tho shore, having escaped de-
struction. These are in no place parallel to the shore, but lie always in the
direction which the streams of lavu would take in dosci^nding from tho
mountains. Cultivation is carried on, and might bo iniroasod, notwith-
standing tho great difficulties. Tho only staple commodities at present are
sweet potatoes, upland taro, and yams ; the latter almost entirely raised for
ships."

The climate is mild throughout the district, and there are seldom strong
winds. From May to September, the wot or rainy season, there is a good
deal of rain. In December, January, and February, the weather is usually
very dry, and the winds prevail from the North, from which quarter it some-
times blows fresh.

Kealakekaa or Karakakooa Bay, derived a sad celebrity from its beiu^
the scene of the death of the immortal Cook, the discoverer of the group, and
tho father of modern hydrography.

The following is Captain King's description of it ; — " It is about a milo
in depth, and bounded by two low points of land at tho diytanco of half a

■■•tMtrasM»vx-"

<^f t i0* m r m^ KrmKff* ^ .tiiMwtsai • isam t i m -

H.is TIIK SANDWK II ISLAM'S

l.„.nu., n,ul Uarinn S.S.H. an.l N.NW fnmi onch oflior. On tl.n North
,,oiut, wl.ich is Hut mul Imrron, Htiinds tho villugo <.f Kowrowm; nu.l m tl.o
bottom of tho bay, n.ur u ^rovo of t.ill cocou-u»t tr.oH, thcro is nnoth.-r vil-
la f nw.ro ......Hi.l.raLh, m/.c uuU.-.l K.ikooii ; botwuo.i them runs u h.gli

ro^ky chir, iim^coHHibln fp.m tho soa-Nlmm. On tiio Wouth Hi<lo8 the coaHt,
for about a inih, inhi.ul, has a rii^fKo.l .ppoarnnco ; boyoncl which tlio country
ri808 with u gradual ascent, and Ik ..vor.proad witli .ultivatod ench.BureH and
grovos of cocoa-nut trooH. whoro tho habitations of tlio nativ-s aro scattorod
in great nunib..r8. Tl.o ^lioro all round tho bay is covrod witli a black coral
rock, which mako8 tho landing very dangorous in rough weather; except at
tljo village of Kakooa, wliere tlicro is a tine sandy beach, with a moral, or
burying-i.la.o, at one extremity, and a Humll well of fresh water a. tho
(,th..r ''".IJ bay appearing to (-..'jtain Cook a proper place to reUt tho
ships and lay in ar additional supply of water and provisions, we moored
on tho N..rth side, about a quarter of ^ miio from tho shore, Kowrowru

bearing N.W." , r * *v.-

The last words of the illustrious circumnavigator a journal reior to this

^ "At 11 a.n.. (Sundty, January 17, TTU) wo anchored in tho bay (which
is called by tho natives Kamkakmi), in 13 fathoms water, over a sandy bottom
and about a quarter of a mile from the N.E. shoro. In this situation tho
South point ofthe bay bore South by West, and tho North point West J
North. Wo moored with tho stream anchor and cable to tho northward, un-
bent the sails, and struck tho yards and topmast. The ships continued to bo
much crowded with natives, and wore surrounded by a multitude of canoes.
T had nowhere in the course of my voyages seen so numerous a body of people
assembled at one place ; for, besides tliose who had como off to us in canoes,
all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hurdreds
,rero swimming round tho ship like shoals of fish. We c.mld not but bo
struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps there were few on
ut ard who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a
norihern passage homeward iast summer. To this disappointment we owed
our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our
voyage with a discovery which, though the last, suomod in many respects to
bo the most important that had been made by Europeans throughout tho ex-
tent of tho Tacifio Ocean." The subsequent proceedings of tho discovery
ships are familiar to all. Captain Cook on his landing was rocoivod by the
natives in a most extraordinary manner. He received unmistakable evi-
dences of adoration addressed to him, and several religious ceremonies oc-
curred, in which he was the principal object. Tho most unbounded liberality
was also shown to tho visitors, and all was friendly and respectful. The ships
quitted the bay oa the 4th of February, but on springing the foremast they
determined to return, and readied their former anchorage ou the 11th fol-

( III llio Niirth
ra; ftud in tlio
in nnuthiT vil-
tu viin.s a higli

Idofl till) COHHt,

ich llio country
enclosures and
u aro scattered
h a black coral
thor ; except at
th a moral, or
li water ai tho
ICO to relit tho
ns, wo moored
)re, Kowrowra

x\ refer to this

tho bay (which
: a sandy bottom
lis situation tho
I point West 4
) northward, un-

continiied to bo
itude of canoes,
a body of people
' to us in canoes,
many hurdreds
luld not but bo
ire were few on
avours to find a
intment we owed
nd to enrich our
many respects to
coughout tho ex-
3f the discovery

roccivod by the
nmistakablo evi-
ls ceremonies oc-
ounded liberality
lectful. The ships
the foremast they
ou the nth fol-

IIAWAII

h;i»

lowiii;,'. Their roceptii.u was tlio rcvorMO of wlmt was antiiipated, and suitiii-
i iou and a(»};reNsi(m in Hiuall iimltors todlv the pliiee of tlio I'DriiiiT ptod feel-
iiij?. TliiM led t(i open (iiitlireiik, ami on Siindiiy, I'Miruiiry II, I 77'.>, Cook
'iiided with a boat's crow, in the midst of an iiunieiisi' and ..riiicd eruwd. A
chief had boon unfortunatoly shot, and tho nows arriving, wan tiio sipnal fur
open warfare, and Cook was stabbed in the back in atteinptiiij; to reach tlie
boat at tlie water's odpt. Thin died tho most romai'kaMe imin at tho Hceno
of his moHt important diseovory. Thontono on wliieli lie landed is still siiow.<.
and tho stoiu of a tree, near to the spot whoro ho fell, is now marked willi
an inscription on coiipor relatinj? tho fact. Tlio top of this treo has been
broujijht to Hn^'land, and tlepositod at Groouwich hospital.-'''

Tlio namo of tho bay, Karakakoou, as Cook lallsit, or Kealakekua, ac-
cording to tho missionary ortho}j:rapliy, sijrnilies " "lo path of tlio ^ods,"
and is so termed from a slide in tho hill, still visible, by which tho native.-s
believed llio gods used to cross tho bay (piiekly.

Tho bay is not extensive, anil opens between two low and barren liills, on
(>acli of wliiili stands a town. Uotween them a high perpendicular blulf rises
directly from tho water, in wliicli aro numi'rous caves formerly and still
sometiiuos used as places of burial. Those caves aro nearly inaccesBible,
and resorted to by vast flocks of birds.

Tho district of A'ait occupies tho southern oxtromity of tho island. Tlio
coast, says Captain King, presents a prospect of tho most hon id and dreary
kind, tho whoh' country appearing to have undergone a total ehnngo from
the etfocts of some dreadful convulsion. Tho grounil is everywhere covered
with cinders, and inxorsooted in many places with black streaks, which soom
to mark tho course of a lava which has llown, not many ages back, from tho
mountain lioa to the shore. Tho southern pi'omontory looks like the more
dregs of a volcano. Tho projecting headland is composed of broken and

* Tho fato of Cook is a swd ovidrnco of .an unl'uituniito point in his iic-rwmal tharncter.
Ilia ti'mpor was overhniiring and hasty, iinil for this his attaclicd fiit'iul and coinpiinioa,
Captain King, remarks, hu nii^ht have bcon jiialiy blaniud. No o'.htr navi;;ator ever cx-
poriuiicod such a wolooaiu. ]lo was iho ^od to thom which tradition h^d tl.dni to oxpoct to
return, and Laiio (O-rono), as ho was called, rctoivod diviiiu honoars and unhoandod
liborality. Unfortunatoly they did not moot with diio consideration, and he who was con-
sidori'd iinmoi-tal was killed. All his remains wore not returned at tlio time, but his ribs
and breast-bone, as also a sledgn from the N.W. coast of America, w^ro allerwards wor-
shipped by those who believed in his divinity. They wero i>reser\ed in a small wicker
basket, covered with red feathers, and deposited in a tenii)lo dedicated to hono, on the Masl
side of the island. They wore annually carried in procession toother j'arts of the isliuid.
Their fato has never boon properly useertaiuc'd, but it is saiil that, some of them were
brought to Eni^land by Liho-Liho. The remainde'r have probably been hidden Hince
idolatry was abohbhed.

8in

tup: .sandwich i^iands.

'•i'iigy;y rocks, piled irregularly on oiio anotlier, aud terminating in sLaip
points.

Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of tlui island, it is much
more populous than the verdant mountains of I'una to the N.E. Nor ia this
circumstance hard to be accounted for ; the natives prefer such ground as
lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to the cultivation of yams,
and plantains. Now, amid these ruins there are many patches of rich soil,
which arc carefully cultivated, and thii neighbouring sea abounds with excel-
lent fish. Another inducement for their ro8ide.nco hero is that it 's the /««-
f/tm (fix/rid, wliere this vegetable production is collected and dried for the
China market, and is sent to Honolulu for shipment in large balt3.«. Off this
part of the coast Captain King could find no ground at less than a cable's
length olf the shore, with IGO fathoms of line, excepting in a bight to the
eastward of the South point, where they had regular soundings of oO and 58
fathoms over a bottom of fine sand.

The South Point is in lat. 18^ 54', long, lo.j 3!) , and on it stands a tole-
rably largo village. After Cook's visit it was reported that good anchorage
and oxcollent shelter existed close round on the western side of this South
point, and had been overlooked by that navigator ; but Vancouver, to set the
matter at rest, examined it, and found that the shores were nearly straight,
and exposed to a most tremendous surf, that broke with such fury as to ren-
der landing, if not impossible, highly dangerous, even to those inhabitants
who are most export in the management of their canoes.

The whole of the S.E. side between the South point aud Kapoho Point, a
distance of 66 miles, affords not the smallest shelter or anchorage of any de-
scription.

All this part of the island has been much altered by the effects of the vol-
cano which stands over it.*

MAUI or Mowec of the older navigators, is the next largo island to the

• Tho pontheni extremity of Hawaii suffered most from the great eruption of Mauna
Ln;i, of 1808, alhidtd to on page S2.i. It commcneed, with but few warnings, on March
27th, and from that period to Ajiril lOth it was estimated tliiit tico thomami shocks were
felt, the heaviest on April 2nd, which was felt in Honolulu, and destroyed every church
and dwelling in tho Kau or southern district of Hsiwaii. On April 7th, a new crater sud-
denly bur-st out ou the side of tho mountain, near a house which was covered with lava,
ten minutes afterwards, and from it a river of fire, varying from 500 to 1,200 or 1,,)00 feet
wide, ran southward ntthe rate often miles an hour. This lava stream reached the S. point,
and tho Kuua pack(^t, passing this point at the time, it is said at three miles distanru
(probably exaggerated), saw a conical island, 400 feet high, rise out of the sea midway be-
tween the lanii and tlie vessel, tho mud bespattering her sails. The lava Howed down to
this island, so that it now joi; s the land. The whole of this Kau district was desolated,
lend (niidi loss of life cnJ-ui d, mi Ih.-.t it i> iii.w deseil'd.

iiiatiny in sLaip

laud, it is mutli
SI.E. Ndi- is this
Huch grouud as
ivdtion of yarcs,
;cli03 of rich soil,
junds with excel-
lat it '8 the fun-
nd dried for the
I bales. Off this
IS than a cable's
1 a bight to the
Qgs of jO and 58

it stands a tolc-
; good anchorago
Ic of this South
couver, to set tho
nearly straight,
h fury as to ren-
hose inhabitants

Kapoho Point, a
orage of any de-

tfticts of the vol-

go island to the

eruption of Mauna
arnings, on Mrtrch
7usaiiti shocks were
oyed every church
a new crater sud-
covered with lava,
1,200 or 1,,)00 feet
?nched tho S. point,
irdc miles distance
ho sea midway bo-
ava Howcd down Id
rict was desolattJ,

MAUI,

8-Jl

N.W. At a distance it ai^i.^ars liko t^^ o islands, but u nearer approacti
shows the low istl.mus only a few f.;et above the sea, and 'J miles across,
uniting tho two peninsulas. The whole island, liko all the rest of the group
is volcanic, and appears to have been produced by the two adjacent volca-
noes, which have ejected the enormous masses of matter of which it is com-
posed. The island resembles Tahiti more than Hawaii' does, both in form
and appearance. The lofty summits of the southern peninsula are never
covered witli snow, though they are often seen above the clouds. The high
land is steep and rugged, showing at all times the igneous nature of its
formation, extinct craters and indurated lava streams. Where this has
decomposed, the sides of the mountains are covered with shrubs and trees.

The surface of the northern peninsula does not appear to be of such recent
formation as that of the southern, and although it is of evident volcanic for-
mation, the marks of recent eruption are seldom seen.

The aspect of the two portions of Maui are very distinct from each other.
East Maui chiefly consists of Mauna Haloakala, which from perpendicular
cliffs near tho sea, rises in many parts with one unbroken slope to the sum-
mit. West Maui is very much intersected by sharp peaks and ridges,
separated by deep valleys which form sloping plains of considerable extent
to the northwards and southwards. Tho highest peak of West Maui is
Mauna oEeha, 0,130 feet high, and (he greater part of this peninsula is
grazing land.

East Maui, though mountainous, has most cultivated land, and the ricli
volcanic soil of tho Kula District on the f?.W. side of the island raises abund-
ant crops of potatoes, which are seui to supply the whalers' and other ships.
AVhoat and other grain is also cultivated, and increasing.

The South point of Jlaui, Coije Kahild, is formed by rugged, craggy
rocks, and the sea breaks at a little distance to the N.W. of it. Tho
edge of this bank is very steep-to, suddenly shoaling from no bottom
with 80 fathoms to 2o fathoms, and then to 10 fathoms. The South side of
the island terminates very abruptly in tho ocean, and, though rugged, is
verdant and fertile.

Tho North coast of East Maui is a succession of deep ravines, running up
the mountains and down thorn cascades, several hundred feet in height
but with little volume of water, are to be seen falling. In this respect it
resembles the windward side of Ha^^aii. This circumstance renders tra-
veUing along the coast impossible. Tho central mountain is named Mamm
Ilalmluda (" house of tho sun"), and somewhat resembles Mauna Kea, on
Hawaii.

Mama Ilaieakala has the largest known crater, or it may b.- that it is
formed of several craters. Tho mountain is 10,200 feet high, and the crater
measures 12 miles around its edges, and is 2 miles across its widest part. Tho
summit is bare. At the height of «,000 feet there is u large cayorn. Oapt

^^., THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Will'03 s vvs -" Tho crator <.f Haloakala, if so it may be callo.l, is a .loep
«! ; c^l at tho Novth and East, forming a kind of elbow ; tho bottom ot
it .:; as ortainod by tho bavometor. was 2,783 feet below tho summit peak.
I;r 2 83 fL bolow the wall. Although its side, are steop, yet a descent .
Iculblo at almost uay part of it. Tho inside of the or^ was ent.. y
,aro of vegetation, .nd from its bottom arose some large hUls of scor a an
Id Some of tho latter are of an ochre-red colour at the sumnnt, w.tl
small orators in tho centre. AH boro tho appearance of volcamc actu.n, but
the natives have no tradition of an eruption.'

The isthmus is, as before stated, very low, and oons.sts of sad constantly
«hift ng an" thr wn up into " dunes." It is too dry for cult.vatu.u and .
abou; f; by 15 miles il extent. For nine months of theyear xt . a hno gra-
■ zing country, and feeds largo herds of cattle.

Tho East end of West Maui is an abrupt precipice, .overal l-'-^™^ f^^

high on the coast. On the S.E. part of it is a female sem.nary, of som,

IbHty called Wailuku. It is an extensive range of coral and adobe hmld-

dntn a flourishing village, and is onoof the best organised estabhshments

tmwich Islands. We have no nautical particulars of tho northern

portions of Maui. -in

Lahaina lies on the S.W. side of West Maui. It was for a consulerablo
timrt^e residence of the k.ng. After Ivamehameha had conquered the group
u 7 k the year after Vancouver's visit, he removed the seat of governmen
to T un;iul«, Oahu ; but his .ucces.or found this too troublesome a site from
o hnportu^ties and assumptions of the white rosidonts and w ate visitors.
Luhaina was therefore selected as die most central position of the archipe-
kgo The first missionaries wore planted here m May, lh„o.

The town of Lahaina is built along the beach for a distance of three-
quarters of a xnile; it is principally composed of grass houses, situated as
uearthe beach as possible; it has one principal street, with a lew others
nit; at ight angles. After the governor's (or king's) palace the ort is
Z 1st prominent object ; its form is .uadrangular, the longest side facing
he Ta- I is of little account, however, as a defence, servmg chiolly to con-
iue unruly subjects and sailors in. The area within is about .n acre and
r.aUsL 2') f.et high. According to ^l<^;^^-^^^^.^^^^^:^
Sfites' Exploring E.xpecUcion, it is in lat. 20" ol: oO'. long, l.b 41 0'. Tho
Thert it teg'ularf being somewhat dependent on the wind. ; it runs to
the N W. generally, sixteen hours out of the twenty-four.

The seminary of Lahaiualuna is the most remarkable building to be .con

as the bay is approached. It stands on the .ide of tho mountain behind tho

In and 2 Jes from it. It was founded iu 1831, for instructing scbuol-

t lers. but its system has since then been changed, and it is not so clh.t.ve

An excellent chart of the Sandwich l.lauds wa. engraved on small piece, ol

* iV ff *^i;^m9<^"- ^

■ 'iii/mmjiywmv'-

Hod, is a deep
; tlio bottom of

summit peak,
yet a doscont is
sr was entiri'ly
s of scoria and
8 summit, with
janic action, but

sa vd constantly
iltivation, and is
I- it is a lino gra-

•al hundred foot
minary, of somo
and adobe Imild-
)d cstiiblishments

1 of tho northern

)r a considoraWo
Kjuerod tho group
at of government
osouu! a site from
ud white visitors.
1 of the archipo-

listauce of three-
>uses, situated as
vith a few others

pahiuo tlio fort is
ongest side facing
Lug chiefly to con-
bout an acre, and
ms of tho United

l.j6" 41' 0'. Tho
windi? ; it runs to

luilding to be seen
Duntuin behind llio
iu8tru'?tiug sduiol-
t it<uot so cHnitivi:'.
ou small pioctb ot

■MAUI

si;{

I singular production for

copper taken from a wreck at (his ustablishmont,
llii.s remote spot.

Lahaiua is in some points a profei'ablc place to Honolulu for refreshment ;
more order reigns here than in most places in the Puoitic ; and tlie absence
of foreigners and their attendant grog-shops, causes loss temptation to bo
tiirown in tho way of crows ashore. Trovisious, especially potatoes, aro
abundant.

Lahaina has boon and still is a favourite recruiting place for tho whalo
ships, and conseijuently tho products of the other islands are brought here,
and everything may be got hero except taro. The fruits aro oxcollout. Thoro
aro several European residents and traders. Tho island seems to bo rising
as the beach is extending, having advanced at least 20 ft. since 18.j5.

Light. — A bright fixed light is shown ou tho beach, visible 6 miles olf.
Lat. '2i.)^ 58' N.. long. 1 ofr 3o' W.

Notwithstanding that tho anchorage on this side of Maui is well sheltered,
Vancouver considered that tho bottom was only a slight covering of sand
over a bed of hard ccii.l. Tho load does not discover this, but ou anchoring
the doceitfulness of tho bottom is manifest. Tho roadstead of Lahaina is
only an open one ; tho shores are bounded by a reef, with only one lauding
for boats. The soimdings decrease regularly to 5 fathoms closo to the roof,
extending in general about one-fourth of a mile from the beach. The West
extremity of Maui forms, with the West point of tho roadstead bearing N.
14" W. and S. 1 1" E., a league asunder, an excellent little bay. Tho North
point is formed by a round hill closo to the water side.

Tho southern side of West Maui has a forbidding aspect; tho shores, how
over, aro not so steep and rocky as <lsowliere, and have generally a sandy
beach. There is a roadstead hero called by Vancouver I'aioa, which is re-
presented as good anchorage, and may Ihj easily found by attending to tho
following description : — The large bay, formed by the two peninsulas and
the sandy isthmus, has its western side formed by high rocky precipices, that
rise perpendicularly from tho sea. To the westward of th • precipices tho
coast is chiefly composed of sandy beaches, and tho mountu.us, at some dis-
tance from the shore, form two remarkable valleys, separated from each other
by a high rugged mountain, seemingly detached from the rest, and appn nich-
ing nearer to the beach than those to the right and left of it. Tho anchoragi^
at Patoa is abreast of the easternmost of those valleys, which appeared fruit-
ful and well cultivated.

Tho western side of this large bay {Kamalam Bay) is formed by rocky
dill's and precipices ; its opposite shoro is about 4 miles distant ; the sound-
ings on the eastern side are regular, but very rocky. Nearly in the middle
(if its western side is a village, called Mackorrey by Vancouver, off which
tlicro is anchorage in 7 fathoms water, a little more than a quarter of a milo
oil shoro, bottom of sand and broken coral. It ia (.uily open to about two

-•;tt«<>««««*'*M«n»>»*H miina

g,,j THE SANDWICH 1!SLAN1»S.

,.„in1s to U.o S.W., but there is not much wind from that quarter ; one great
ncnnvenionco attending the anchoring in any part of this bay is tho v.o ent
Houalls which blow over the isthmus. Those gusts, or rather gale, of wmd
How constantly when the trade wind blows fresh at sea, and ospeoally when
it is most from tho northern quarter. At these tin.es it prevents nny com-
munication with the shore, and this is the more serious, as the noldmg ground

'' rthrihoring place will be found near the S.W. point of East Maui,
a little to the southward of a remarkable round hill on a sandy beach, pro-
ecting its rocky base into the sea. From the appearance of -ts s™ .
'las called Volcano Hill, and lies N. 26'^ W. about a league from the bonth
ITn of Maui, and directly opposite the I.land of Moiokin. The soundmg
irregular, from 7 to 15 and 25 fathoms. The beach appears convement
for landing on, but thero is no water.

MOLOKINI (or Morokini), or Jforrotinmr, is a barren rock whuh lies be-
tween Tahaurawe and Maui. It is high, or it would be dangerous to ship-
,,ins It is only visited by fishermen, who dry their nets on its barren sur-
Le It lies in the strait separating Kahoolawe from East Maui.

KABJJLkVl {IMoolawe, Takiarawe, Tahoomca, or A«rfo«/raaO lies off the

s W point of Maui, and from its shape and appearance seems as if it onco

formed a part of that i.sland, and had been detached by some convulsion. It

low and almost destitute of every kind of verdure or shrub, excepting

I spec'ies of coarse grass. There are no evidences oi active volcanic

"Tt is"u miles long and 5 miles wide. It is only inhabited at times by a
few p or fishermen, and was used as a place of exile. It is now clue ly use-
uTas a sheep pasture. The whole South part is covered with a l.ght sol,
l-^g o/deconiposed lava, and destitute of vegetation On the North
1 ther! is a better soil, capable in some places of vegetation^ There are one
or two houses on the North end. Off the West point of the island. Ca,.
IcealaikMki, is a detached .hoal, seen by Cook in his discovery of the island
FeWry 2 . 1779. it lies 1 i miles off the point, and has 9 feet water on it.
Ves Z y P- safely within 2 mUes of the point, but it will be much better
not to approach within 3 miles. This shoal is remarkable as the only one
hidden from the navigator around the Sandwich Islands.

LANAI or Ranai lies to the West of West Maui. 20 miles to the N.W. of
Kahoolawe ; the space between is called the Amu Channel Lanai is a dome-
shaped isla;d. It is higher than Kahulaui. but is neither so high nor
Lken as any of the other islands. The greater portion of it is barren, and
the island in general suffers from the long droughts which frequently pre-
Jrl ravines and glens, notwithstanding, arofilled with thicketsof small
leel which serve useful building purposes to the natives of Maui^ Tho
lland like the rest of the group, is volcanic; the soil is hollow, and by no

iirter ; one great
! is tho violent
r galos of wind,
espotially when
vents nny com-
'aoUling ground

it of East Mani,
indy beach, pro-
of its summit it
from the South
. The soundings
(pears convenient

{ which lies be-
angerous to ship-
n its barren sur-
Maui.

olmve) lies otf tho
eoms as if it once
10 convulsion. It
shrub, excepting
if active volcanic

ited at times by a
is now chieily use-
with a light soil,
I. On the North
ion. There are one
f the island, Cape
ivery of the island,
I 9 feet water on it.
will be much better
e as the only one

liles to the N.W. of
'I. Lanai is a dome-
either 80 high nor

of it is barren, and
ich frequently pre-
ith thickets of small
ves of Maui. The

hollow, and by no

MOLOKAl.

81'.

means fertile ; the shores abound with sholl-fish, raeduso), and cuttlo-fisli.
Tho inhabitants are not numerous, about 400 in number. It is about l.'i
miles long and 6 miles broad. Tho country to tho South is high and
craggy ; it appears to have boon frequently rent, largo fissures being appa-
rent on its sides. The other parts of the island have a better aspect.

MOLOKAl or Morotoi lies to tho N.W. of tlie preceding, and is of a
difl'erent figure. It is a long, irregular island, apparently formed by a chain
of volcanic mountain.s, 40 miles in length, and not moro than 7 to 9 miles
broad. The mountains are nearly equal in elevation to those of Maui, and
are broken by numerous deep ravines and water-courses, tho sides of whieli
are frequently clothed with verdure, and ornamented -with shrubs and trees.
There is but little level land in Molokai, and consequently but few plan-
tations ; several spots, however, are fertile, and repay the toils of their cul-
tivators.

One-third of tho island to tho West is a barren waste, and has but few
inhabitants. Tho remainder, to the East, is almost one entire mountain,
rising gradually from the Soutu to the height of 2,500 foet ; while to t!ie
North it is almost perpendicular. On the South side there is a narrow strip
of land, not exceeding one-fourth of a mile wide, the soil of which is very
rich, and which contains the greater jiart of the population. The soil here,
however, is too dry for cultivation, which is carried on in the uplands. The
people are very poor, and ill-provided with necessaries. In 18152 their num-
ber was 0,000 ; in 1840 only 5,000, and this was reduced to 2,300 in 1800;
at tho first named period it was first occupied as a missionary station.

There are several small harbours within the reef on the South side, at
Kahiaaha, the missionary station, which are capable of sheltering vessels
of from 60 to 80 tons.

Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., says : — Passing the Ea.st end of Maui, and
coming suddenly on Molokai, the view is very singular ; four exactly parallel
outlines of picturesque and lofty cliffs appear almost a visual deception, or
the effect of quadruple refraction ; but on advancing it will prove to be a
reality ; height about 400 feet, and varying but slightly from tlie perpen-
dicular. Here, also, as on Maui, several very pretty but loftier cascades
embellish the scenery, which attired in nature's clothing only, is rich iu
colours.

The East point of the island is called Halaica Point ; and half a league
South of it is a small, barren, rocky islet, called Moduenete ; and from this
point the shores of the island lie S. 53° W. Off the N.W. end of the island
a small bay was observed by Cook ; but it was found by Vancouver that the
space indicated was nearly a straight shore, composed alternately of rugged
rocks and sandy beaches. He anchored in 1 9 fathoms, within about a milo
of the breakers, on a fine sandy bottom ; the West point of the island bore
South by compass, distant 4 miles, and tho N.W. point N. 26° E. about tho

8:g

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
TliiB wfts as close as safety would allow, but it is entirely ex-

same distance. *..." • .

posed to the North and N.W. winds, which frequently blow with great v.o-

lonce, and to the very heavy roll of the sea.

OAHU or Woahoo, the next island in succession, may be looked on as the
principal'of the group, as regards maritime alTairs, inasmuch as it contains
the port chiefly frequented by the shipping of the North ramflc. Ihe inland
is 40 miles long by about 20 miles broad. Like the rest of the islands it is
of volcanic formation; Captain Cook only saw the North or «•/,./«■«,•/ s.do
and, judging from this alone, it appeared to him to bo by far the finest iHlund
of the group. Nothing could exceed the verdure of the hills, the variety of
wood and lawn, and rich cultivated valleys, which the whole face of the
country displayed. A different conclusion was arrived at by Captain ^\ ilkes,
who came first upon the lee side. The appearance of Oahu is by no means
inviting; it has a greater resemblance to the desert coast of Peru than any
other of the Polynesian islands we had visited, and has as little appearance
of cultivation. The country, at first sight, would be termed barren and rocky
There could not be a better example of perfectly opposite characters applied
to the same place than this, nor a better evidence of the great variation in
climate which may occur within a very short distance. But whatever may
be said of the unpromising appearance of its southern side, there is no doubt
but that it is the garden of the Sandwich Islands.

The East end of the island is called Cape Malcapm. There are numerous
caves here, situated in a bluff of 300 feet elevation, and the mouths of them
are at about two-thirds the height. They have been, and arc still some-
times used as burial-places. They are the effect of volcanic action. At 12
miles from this point is the peninsula of Molcapu, which forms the harbour of
Waialai. The entrance of this has only 9 feet water, a depth only fitting for
the island vessels. Opposite to it inland is Kaneote, the mission station for
the North side of the island, in the district of Pali Kulau. This district con-
tains about 4,500 inhabitants, and the productions are similar to the island
generally. Sugar and coffee are beginning to be raised. There is a belt of
arable land extending along this district, which increases in breadth to the
westward. This narrow strip of land, varying from half a mile to 2 miles in
width towards the North end, is called the Kulauloa district. It is bounded
by the mountain chain of Konohaunui. This belt is only a few feet above
the sea. From its position on the island it receives abundance of rain for
agricultural purposes. There are several small streams, which will drive the
machinery for sugar-mills. The scenery of this part is most enchanting fur
beauty, boldness, and variety ; stupendous precipices, rising some 2,000 or
3,000 feet, with numerous small streams gushing down their sides.
' The district of Waialua stretches from the most westerly Capo of Oahu,
called Kaena, to Waimea, in the district of Kulauloa, on the N.E., and to
Waianae, on the S.W., a distance along the coast of above 20 miles. With-

OATIU.

SI7

18 entirely ex-
rtith great vio-

oked on as tlio
aa it contains
Ic. The iwlan<l
he islands it is
iriiidiviir I si(l<\
tlio finest island
, tLo variety of
olo face of the
I!aptain Wilkes.
is by no means
Peru than any
ittlo appearance
arron and rocky,
aracters applied
:cat variation in
it whatever may
:hore is no doubt

ire are numerous
I mouths of them
I arc still some-
action. At 12
13 the harbour of
;h only fitting for
ission station for
This district con-
ilar to the island
There is a belt of
in breadth to tho
mile to 2 miles in
:t. It is bounded
a few feet above
dance of rain for
hich will drive the
ost enchanting for
ng some 2,000 or
eir sides.

rly Capo of Oahii,
tho N.E., and to
e 20 miles. With-

in this district are a few bays for vessels not exceeding I.IO tons burthen ; tho
best of those is Kawailoa. Those to the N.E. are Waimon, Haula, Kakaua,
Moluilui, and Makua. Part of this district produces abundantly, being cul-
tivated by irrigation. Five considerable streams water it from tho Kona-
haunui range, passing down the fertile valleys.

As just stated, tho sugar-cane has been increasingly cultivated. The fol-
lowing notes were made on a visit to them in 1805 : —

Passing by the two plantations in Nuuanu Valley, located within sight of
Honolulu, wo reached the pali (or clilf ) over a good dry road, which hero is
seldom found in winter, and encountering a cool bracing North wind, which
came rushing through the narrow gap and down the valley as if it had been
caged up an hour or two by the encircling mountains. What a scene opens
here to the traveller, as he commences the descent of the precipice — a plain
25 miles long, intersected with ridges of low hills, and hemmed in on tho
mauka side by bold palisades, in some places two thousand feet perpen-
dicular.

Once down the pali, the traveller finds himself in Koolau, which embraces
all the windward side of this island, East of the summit ridge, and extending
from Waimanalo at the South to Waimea at "the North, a track about fifty
miles in length, and varying from 1 to 5 miles in width. All tliis district of
Koolau is exposed to frequent showers, and is intersected with numerous
small streams — all which tend to make it valuable for agriculture and pas-
turage.

Between the foot of the pali and the Protestant church at Rancohe lies tho
sugar estate of the Queen Dowager Kalama, where Mr. Eobert Wakoman
has been engaged for some years in breaking up the land, planting and cul-
tivating cane. About two hundred acres wore planted, in various stages of
growth.

Just beyond Kaneohe is a tract of three thousand acres, called Heeia,
where the Catholic church is located, which is probably well calculated for t
sugar plantation ; at least cane grows freely there.

Beyond is the Kaalaea plantation, extending from the sea back to the cen-
tral mountain range. The estate comprises some two thousand acres, eight
hundred acres of it being suitable for cane. About two hundred acres are al-
ready planted.

Three or four miles beyond Kaalaea, we come to the Ktioloa estate, now
called the " Oahu Plantation." Including Kaawa, it consists of about four
thousand acres.

Like much of the land on this side of Oahu, the cane fields here consist of
rich bottom-land, lying just above tho level of high tide. So near the sur-
face is the water, that tho roots of tho cane find moisture all tho year round,
reducing tho risk of drought very much. Tho soil, like that of Lahainn,

,„ niK SAN-MWICU ISLANDS.

W.ikap«. a„a W.nul„. .eooWe. it, depo-iu of rioh alluvium from U,e

mountains in tho roar. visitod 1>V ll>

N.E. by i"- 4 i'-' "' , ^ etleetod i>n account of a

Ifiv Watorin"' hero, however, could not De won v

„,i.o™ble.,.poaram»,l.uta.a»h ^^ Good,, .ho a..ro,u„»™ ...

'rru::;r::H»: a.:. ^— . n..»., .o.., m.. ., ...« ..-
"'Ln. Pom. i. .1,0 .0.0™ capo f oti,:"rrti'"':i.»'t

1} i?,.mT, it tho western coast ot Uahu troniis <s. .^ > ^

the S.>V. point, ui „v.,.n,.<1v into tho sea, others torminat-

(the Pearl lagoon)^ ^'^''^''^^ ^^^^^^ ^,11 ^,;,,i, through the hills,
farther from «-/^-^' ^^"^ ,^ ^^ .y On its South side, between two
The shore here forms a -^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^, ,,,,, ,,,,, .^ands the vil-

^"S^^^^^^^P^rr^teorthe bay. about a xnile to the North of the
'T'' "'s Thh rot larlcable'for its projecting from a sandy beach
village, 18 a hi„'ti rocK, r , ^ j j^^j Between this and

*'\*r°l\7arL%t SouT ttLXei. .->• -an. ofaouad-
the h,gli i™ty f°"",' .,,„,„ ih„,e, Tho South Bid. of thisbaakh.,

ri^r:";^— :r„:rrs^h„„., tothoNo^hontthoodgo

^hWer .W:lonhoi,.aad,i.i..eU.ato,edh,o„pioua..d«^
Unhke otners sufficient for working sugar-mills.

^:irX::^o::Zr..,n, ^... ..^ .hoop, whioh »» .e.

■"rP^rLX^CrrrW, lio. o. the. south .ido oMh.

• , ^ throatance boing about 8 mita East ot tho S.W. po,ut. It .. a»
,.l.„d tho '"''J"" ■> / ,,y„^ jHe Ei,er E.a aaiptiea iteolf. « do-

:::r.:to <:o,a;:Lt or th. p.ari.„,.or hoi„g fouad u. u. « i. ao.

IION^)LUU^

HlO

viuin from tlio

visitfd b}' tln>
in 115 fathoms,
,y W. J W. and
ugh n deep vnl-
»n account of a
lo.

r aspect on first
e a squalid and
iat and pleasing;
10 astronomer to
illcd by tho na-

3rn limit of Wai-
- E. '20 miles, to
ticipally of steep,
, others torminat-
id extends to tho
rocks, over which
f in the middle of
ward of Opooroah
e mountains retire
through the hills,
side, between two
ees, stands the vil-
the North of the
m a sandy beach.
Between this and
lall bank of sound-
de of this bank has
J^orthof ittheedge

} island, extending
Long the sea-shore,
d by copious and ex-
?orking sugar-mills,
ep, which are seen

a South side of the
kV. point. It is an
ipties itself. It de-
und in it. It is not

met with elsewhere in tho Sandwich Islands. Tho inlet has somcwlmt tlm
appearance of a lagoon that has been partially filled up by alluvial deposits;.
It affords abundance of excellent fish. Tho depth of water in the mouth is
only 16 feet; but after passing this coral bar, which is 400 feet wide, tho
depth of water becomes ample for large ships, and tho basin is sufficiently
extensive to accommodate any number. If tho bar were partially removed,
which might bo effected, it would afford the best and most capacious harbour
in the Pacific. At present there is little necessity for this, as tho neighbour-
ing port of Honolulu is ample for all the present requirements.

HONOLULU.— This is the capital and principal port of tho kingdom of
Hawaii, and indeed of this part of the Pacific Ocean. It is not very many
years since it was first frequented by Europeans, but "Vancouver passed it
without much notice, in March, 1793, such is its apparent insignificance from
the entrance. Ho was afterwards informed by Mr. Brown, of tho ship Hut-
terworth, of its excellence. His tender, tho Jackall, first entered it in
1794. Mr. Brown giivo it the name of Fair Uaven. Vancouver calls it
Ilonoonoono.

Since the periods above named it has made a wonderful change in circum-
stances, and few places in the world now have such a variety of popidation
and manners as is to be seen here.

As the whaling fleet became more numerous, wealth was gradually brought
here, as it was the principal resort of the ships that came to refit. The
population gradually increased, and instead of a town of grass huts, with
only one house that had a chimney in 1827, when Captain Boechey camo
here, it is now a large town of 15,000 inhabitants. The situation being
good it was eventually established as the capital of the Hawaiian kingdom,
the residence of the consuls of foreign courts, and the chief port in the best
channel of intercourse between the eastern coasts of the old, and tho western
coasts of the new, world. The central part of the city now consists of regu-
larly laid out streets, on either side of which stand houses and warehouses
constructed after the European style, generally painted, and frequently placed
within spacious enclosures with gardens, while its outer portions are still
chiefly composed of grass huts inhabited by the natives. Beside.^ these, there
are the king's palace, a fort, numerous churches and chapels, public offices,
a custom-house and a sailors' home ; also ample wharves, fuuudries, work-
shops, and ship-yards to meet any emergency that may arise, evm to making
a steam-ship if ordered. It has a fine capacious harbour, formed by the
coral reef, capable of accommodating 200 vessels at a time, and is perfectly
safe in all weathers.

The aspect of the country around Honolulu, as seen from the roads, is

barren ; the plain on which the town stands is destitute of verd'ire. This

plain extends both East and West from the town, while behind it the land

rises gradually towards the Nuuanu valley. Several crater-shaped hills are

North Pacific. ^ *

850

THE HANDWICH ISLANDS.

in Bight, one of which, called by the foreign residents the Ptinvh Ihnvl, stonds
out in bold relief on ono side of the valley.

The valley of Nuutoiu is formed by a break in the central volcanic ridges
of Oahu ; it ascends gradually from behind the town, and is about 7 miles
long by half a mile wide at \in ontraiiee. It contracts until it reaches the
northern side of the ridge, when it suddenly terminates in a deep precipice
of l,iOO feet, culled the Pali. Here the trade-wind rushes violently tlirougl.
lietween two high peaks above 1,500 feet in height, while their tops con-
dcTise the clouds, whoso waters are descending constantly in small silver
rills, tliat leap from rock to rock on all sides, unite in the middlo of the val-
ley, and form a largo brook, which is again distributed by the natives to give
fertility and luxuriance to the vale bolow.

One of the most conspicuous points on the South side of Oahu is the Leahi
or Diamond Hill. It lies about 4J miles to the East of Honolulu, and
forms a very picturesque object from the harbour. It is an extinct vol-
canic crater, the largest coast crater on the island, and has its latter name
from the circumstance of bright crystals being found on its sides resembling
the diamond.

The mouth of the harbour is formed by an inlet through a coral reef, pos-
sibly kept open by the fresh-water stream flowing through the town ; this
lias been supposed to be filling up the harbour and its entrance with alluvial
deposit, as a considerable diminution in the depth is observuv^ since the ear-
lier explorations. This is more probably owing to an entire upheaving of
the coast, as is evidenced elsewhere in the diminution of water on rooky
shelves off the coast and the marks on the coast itself. It is true that this
might be remedied without great trouble, by deepening the channel or by
doing the same to the more extensive harbour of the pearl lagoons to the
westward. But this is at present premature to speoulate on ; it suffices now
for all shipping purposes.

Lights. — In 1869 two lights were established here, which by night will
greatly facilitate the entrance. The followin/j; is the official announcement
and the brief directions in connection therewith.

A light is exhibited from the lighthouse erected on the inner edge of the
western reef, bounding the entrance of the channel into Honolulu harbour.

The light is elevated 26 feet above the sea, visible from between the
bearings East round by North to N.W. by W., and in clear weather should
be seen from a distance of 9 miles. The illuminating apparatus is dioptric
or by lenses, of the fourth order.

From the lighthouse the Spar or Fairway buoy bears S. by W. 6J cables,
Diamond point S.E. by E., Barbers point W. i S., and the eastern comer of
the Custom-house N- by E. J E. Near to this corner of the Custom-house,
from a tower, a green light is exhibited, elevated 28 feet above the sea, and
in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 5 miles.

vh Jioivl, stand H

volcanic ridge*
about 7 miles
it r(mcho8 tln'
deep precipice
:)lently througl.
;heir tops con-
in small silver
Idle of the val-
natives to givo

ihu is the Lcain
Honolulu, and
in oxtiuct vol-
its latter name
idos resembling

coral reef, pos-
tho town ; this
36 with alluvial
.^ since the ear-
) upheaving of
rater on rooky
I true that this
channel or by
lagoons to the
; it suffices now

by night will
announcenient

lor edge of the
•lulu harbour,
m between the
weather should
itus is dioptric

W. 6i cables,
istem comer of

Custom-house,
the sea, and

nONOLULU IIATIROUR.

8-. I

Toontortholmrbourby night, bring tlm two li^'hts in a lino, nnd k(<..p
thorn 80 until within a cable of tlif lightlumao on tli<> r.-.f, tlu'ii nU'vr to lh."
euHtwnrd, to avoid the ond of tho .npit on wliidi tlr.> li^'hthoiiso is built
towards tli<^ Kast ond of tli.' now wharf, and wli.'u lialf-way brtwoon tlio
light on til., ncf and the now wharf, steer N.W to tlio ancliora^v iusidn.

The following directions for the outer anchorage are by Mr. 11. Tiiompson,
master of H.M.S. TalU, in .January, 18 If) :— "Just without tiio rcf, and
at a short distance to tlio eastward of tlio entrance to tlie harlioiir, there is a
space of ground which affords a fair anchorage in from 12 to ;{0 fatlioms
water, during the period that the N.E. winds blow steadily, viz., Manh to
October, the remaining months being more subject to irregular winds. Those
most feared are from the southward, which frequently, duriii„ tiie irregulai
spa«on, blow very strong, nnd at the same time send in a heavy swell ; there-
fore vessels lying there should put to sea immediately on tlie appearaueu of
wind from that quarter.

" The holding-ground is indifferent, consisting of hard sand aiul coral, and
the surface very uneven. The marks for the best anchorage are as fidh.ws,
viz. : the flagstaff of Fort Honolulu, N. by E. ; the summit of a round-
topped hill just visible over the inner part of the neck of land which con-
nects Diamond Hill with the other part of the island, bearing about E. by N.
This hill is the only one visible in that direction.

The ITarbour of ITonolulu has a bar, with only 21 feet water upon it at low
water, and the channel is so narrow and intricate that no stranger should
attempt it. The natives understand the signal for a pilot, and will come off
if the weather is not too boisterous. Captain Beechoy considered the best
anchorage outside to be in about IG fathoms water; the Punch Bowl bearing
N.N.E. i E., and the highest part of Diamond Point, E. by S. i S. A bell
buoy now marks the place.

Should it be necessary to enter the harbour, the morning is the best time,
as there arc then leading winds through the passage; but after the trade-
wind has set in it cannot be entered. It is necessary to adopt the precaution
of having boats ready to tow or run out lines to the reefs.

The bar was deepened when there was a prospect of the hue of steamers
between Panama and China being established, as then Honolulu was to be
made a calling place. The same with a line from San Francisco to Yoko-
hama. The wharf was much improved and extended, so that vessels of any
tonnage may lay alongside and coal there. The depth over the bar at low
water was stated to be 21 feet, and at full tide 23 to 24 feet, and that, ex-
cepting in the event of southerly storms, which seldom occur, there can bo
no difficulty in heavy ships entering or leaving at any ordinary half-tides.
But it has been officially stated that steamers should not draw more than 18
or 19 feet water to be sure of entering at all times. Besides the conspicuous
bell buny at the outer anchorage, the channel and bar have been buoyed.

i; 1 :i

•sf a^ -^v ■„■-■'•

859

THE HANDWKMl ISLANDS

Tlie pftflnHpo tliroti^^h the reef into the harbour, though well l)UoyeJ
.III hdth Bi(h'«, it (laugerouA, and nhould not bo attempted, even if tho
wind bft fnir, without a thorotigli knowledge of the port. From the outer
nncliorago run along shoro in nothing loss than 1 1 fathoms, and tho load
ing marks over tho bar are tho northornmost black buoy (tho third from
the entrance on tho starboard side of tho channel) in lino with tho southoni-
niost nil buoy ; when over the bar, stand on in tho lino of buoys, — tho depth
in the channel being from 5^ to 6 fathoms. There is always a hoavy swoll
on the bar with southerly winds, making it dangerous. Any ono unused to
the port should always take a pilot. Tho harbour affords accommodation
for as many as 200 tossoIs at a time.

Aluch of tho '!oral banks is exposed at low water. In consequence of tho
sea that rolls over the reef, and breaks in 4 or 5 fathoms water, boats must
follow the same channel as largo ships, or in all probability thoy will be ruu
on the reefs, or be upset.

There are several pilots always ready to conduct vossels into and out of the
harbour ; and there are also steam-tugs for towage.

Tides. — It is high water, at full and change, at 4'' ; tho rise and fall being
2 feet at springs, and 1 foot to 1 foot 6 inches at noaps ; ]iut tho tides here
are munh afl'ectod by tho winds, gales (whether from North or South) bring-
ing higli tides, and a rise of 3 foot. Somotimos tho riso ia remarkably low,
and without any apparent cause; it has boon as littlo as fi inolios.

Supidiea of evory kind may bo obtained here ; and excellent water is
carried down from Nuuanu Valley, in iron pipes, to supply tho city and the
shipping.

Tho only place remaining to bo noticed as an anchorago is Waikiki, which
is 8 or 10 miles to tlie eastward of Honolulu. Between these two places
there is a vast collection of salt pits, the produce of which is exported to all
tho countries bordering on tho North Pacific. There is anchorage off the
village. Whyteeto Bay, as Vancouver calls it, is formed by the land falling
a littlo back round the S.E. point of Oahu, and although open above half tho
compass in the southern quarters, was considered by him to be the best an-
choring place in the island, but he did not know of Ilonolulu.

KAUAI is called Atooi in Cook's voyage, Atowai in Vancouver's, and
Atmi by a third. The name is composed of two words — a Tauai, literally
and Tauai. The meaning of the word tauai is, to light upon, or to dry in
the sun ; and the name, according to the late king, was derived from tho
long droughts which sometimes prevailed, or the large pieces of timber
occasionally washed on its shores (Ellis). This island is interesting as being
the first land of the group visited by Cook on their discovery. " On Sunday,
January 18, 1778, at daybreak, an island (Oahu) made its appearance, and
soon after we saw more land bearing North, and entirely detached from tho
former.'' On the 19th he anchored in Waimea Bay, on the South side of

I well liuoyniJ
I, even if thu
Voni the outer

nnd tho load
the third from
\ tho southern-
ij'H, — thodei)th

a heavy swell
one unused to
iccommodatioQ

oquence of the
or, boats must
loy will be run

and out of the

and fall being

the tides here

' South) bring-

mnrkably low,

lies.

llent water is
io city and the

Waikiki, which
)Be two places
)xported to all
borage off the
he land falling
above half the
)e the best an-

ncouver's, and
Cauai, literally
n, or to dry in
rived from the
eces of timber
Bating as being
" On Sunday,
)pearance, and
iched from tho
3 South side of

KAITAT.

H,'),1

Kftuai, and was roonivod by tho ftstoiiiMliod natives with profound humility
and roveronco, a circuiuBtanco which bus siuco beou anouulod for as stated
in iiur introtluitory obsorvntious.

The island is 28 miles long, and about 20 miles broad. Like tho rest of
tho archipelago, it is of volcanic formutiou. On tlio N.E. and N.W. sides it,
is lirokon and rugged, but to tho South it is nioi) "vnn. The hills licro riao
with a gradual slope, and at somn distance from tlio shore are covered with
wood. Tliis is one of tho best cultivated of tho isliuids, and oven wheu
first discovered tho plHutations of tho natives wore ii>,iingod with industry
nnd neatuoss. Tlio highest point of the island is tailed H'liilioli, and was
estimated by Captain Wilkes at 6,000 foot ; it is said that thoro is a crater
on its summit, and that the natives ascend it to gain a viuw of Oahu, 100
miloB distant.

Tho two extremities of the eastern end of the island lio N. M^ E. and 8.
14° W. 9 miles from each other, and uro formod by low laud. The former
IS )• rounding point, projecting into the ocoun from a very remarkable forked
hill, that is, in a great measure, detached from the rest of the connected
mountains of the island. Tho latter extends from a range of low hills that
stretch aioug the coast at a small distance from tho boach. Tho country
inland hero is most cuchanting and rich. About a league to tho South of
the southern extremity lies the S.E., or Koloa Point, of tho island, formed by
a bold, blutr, barren, high, rocky headland, faUing porpondicularly into llio
sea. Between this and tho low point is a small cove {Puna Vovf) uccussiblo
to boats only. This portion appears to be well watered. A heavy sua rolls
ill j.i I'lis part of the coast. There uro some silk (mulberry) and sugar
plantations belonging to Europeans.

A few miles to tho westward of Koloa, and about 6 miles to tho soulli-
eastward of Waimea is the celebrated valley of Uanapepe, which has appa-
rently been formed by volcanic action. At its entrance it is about half a luilo
wide, and decreases in width as it approaches the mountains. At its head is
a waterfall.

The coast must now bo approached with groat caution, because oppositt)
Kona Peak, on the West aide of the entrance to Hanapepo Valley, a coral
reef commences, and here stretches some distance seaward ; theuce it trends
along the S.W. shores of the island as far as Point Mana or Kolo,— tho
westernmost point of Kauai.

Waimea Bay, on the Soutli side, is tho best anchoring place on the island,
except in the months of January and February, when tho trade-winds are
interrupted, and the wind blows strongly from the S.W., directly on shoiu
At about a mile West of Waimea is the spot where Cook's boat lirst lauded
on the discovery of tho Sandwich Islands. Cook says:— The road, or an-
choring place, which we occupied, is on the S.W. side of the island, about
6 miles from the West end, before a village, which has the name of Wymoa.

fj.., THE .SANDWICH ISLANDS.

As far us wo sounaod, wo tbuua thut tho bank ha« u tine grey Hand at tho
bottom, and i« free from rucks, except h littlo to tbo eastw«vd of the village
uhore tb(«ro spits out a shoal, on wh.cii are some ro.ks and breakers, but
thoy are not far from tho shore. This road would be entirely sheltered from
tho trado-wi,m, if tho height of tlio land over whloh it blows dul not alter
its direction, and mako it follow that of tho coast ; so that it blows a N.E.
..n one side of the island, and E.S.E. or S.E. on the other, falling obliquely
on the shore. Thus tho road, though si.aated on the Ice side of tho island,
is a little exposed to tho trade-wind; but notwithstanding this defect, it is
far from being a bad station, and much superior to those which necessity
obliges .ships daily to use in regions where the winds are more variable and
more boisterous. Captain King adds that in running down to the road
from tho S.E. point of tho island he saw the appoarunce of shoal water in
several places at a considerable distance from the land; and when ho was
about 2 miles to tho eastward of the anchoring place, and 2 or 3 miles from
the shore, he got into -l.} fathoms water, although the soundings had beau
usuallv 7 or 8 fathoms. The whole distance between Koloa and \\ aimea
consisis of a series of sunburnt hills and barren plains, sloping gradually to
the shore from the mountains, and now and then intersected by ravines or
.vulches Tho village takes its name from a river which, after a course of
about 15 miles, falls into the sea at the place. Boats may ascend it for
about three-quarters of a mile, and this is the only water that is "^ot br^^ish.
At the village is a stone fort, executed by a Eussian trader from the North,
but he was expelled by the authorities. , , . »

The coast to the westward of Waimea consists of a sandy plain, from one-
fourth to a mile wide, and 160 feet above the sea, whence it rises gradually
to the mountains. It has a sunburnt appearance, and is destitute of trees.
On the low grounds tho cocoa-nut tree thrives, and tho sea-coast is consi-
dered the best ground for fishing, and the manufacture of salt might be ex-

tensively carried on. .

Point Mana is the West point of the island ; it is in lat. 22° 4 and oft it
n reof of rocks extends about half a mile from shore. Near this the country
assumes a very dUfeont aspect ; from hence to Ilanalai Bay the coast has
a very rugged and romantic appearance, rising suddenly to lofty, abrupt
difls that jut out into a variety of steep, rugged, rocky points, apparently
destitute both of soil and verdure, but terminating nearly in uniform sum-
mits, on which, as in the valleys, are patches of lively green, producing a

" Hall'laf Bay lies on tho North side of the island ; Captain Wilkes call,
it UaleUa, signifying the land or place of rainbows, a name arising from the
frequent rains, which clothe the country in perpetual green. The village is

at the head of the bay. o • v .

Uanulao, besides bullocks (noble animals, and meat a« fine as in Enfc-

i»

e grey sand at tho
F«/d of the village,

and breakers, but
irely ehe Itored from
blows did not alter
at it blows at N.E.
■r, falling obliquely
3 side of the island,
3g this defect, it is
oso which necessity
I more variable and
; down to the road
of slioal water in
; and when ho was
ad 2 or 3 miles from
soundings had been
Koloa and Waimea
sloping gradually to
•sected by ravines or
h, after a course of
8 may ascend it for

that is not brackish,
ider from the North,

ndy plain, from oue-
nce it rises gradually
is destitute of trees,
le sea-coast is consi-
of salt might be ex-

lat. 22° 4', and off it
STear this the country
ai Bay the coast has
enly to lofty, abrupt
iy points, apparently
larly in uniform sum-
f green, producing a

Captain Wilkos calls
ame arising from tho
reen. The village is

cat utf fine as in Eng-

NUITAU.

S;)5

land), and vegetables of the linest .lu^dity, furnishes fruits, poultry, turkevs,
^..., cheap and in abmadance. Water can be filled in the boats, by sendmg
them into the river.— (Belcher, vol. i. p. 61.)

In Au.mst the anchorage is safe, but when the N.W. gales blow, a very
heavy sea must tumble into the bay. Captain Sir E. Belcher was informed
that a Russian store-ship rode out the season in spite of overytlung. Ihe
anchorage is pretty well covered by a spit, over which there are about 9 It ;
but there is not sufficient space in bad weather for more than throo vessels,
although iu the fine season the bay is spacious.

The lauding is within the moutli of a small river, which carries, for a
..onsiderable distance up. from one to three-quarters of a fathom, into fresh
water, and is further navigable for boats or cauoes (drawing 3 ieot; several

""'Ihe scenery is beautiful, and it is surprising that such a favourable spot
should so long have been overlooked. The consul poBsesses a tiact of land
on which his tenant (Kellett, m EngUshman) feeds cattle, makes butter and
cheese, and farms to great advantage. I am certain that our men derived
more nourishment from the catUe we embarked there than from any pre-
vious diet, and, contrary to the general feeUng, preferred it to salt, regret in g
its loss. I would therefore strongly advise ships of war to sacrifice much to
secure these advantages.-(Sir Edward Belcher.) _,.,,, ,

NIIHAU (Onecow or OneeJmw) Ues 16 miles S.W. of Kaui, the channel
between being called the KauMa Passage. The island is about IS mile«
long, and 8 mUes broad. The eastern side is rocky and unfit fur cultivation,
nor is there any anchorage on it. , ^ <•

Niihau was famous for its yams, fruit, and mats, and was the property of
the king, but was purchased by Mr. Sinclair, a Now Zealand settlor from
the Canterbury district, who removed here with his family, and uses the
island exclusively as a sheep-walk. In 18G7, nearly half a luilhon of lbs.
of wool were exported, and of hides 304,095 in number wore sent from tho

archipelago. • , i n t

The natives wore a darker race than those on Oahu, and roimn.lod Capt.
Boechoy strongly of those on Bow Island. They lived almost entirely on
the western shore, and were very poor. It is comparatively low and with
the exception of fruit trees, which are carefully cultivated, it is destitute i.
wood The soil is too dry to produce taro, but on that account it ,s well
adapted to the growth of y^uns, &c., which are very excellent, and of an

enormous size. .

Yam Bay.-The eastern side of Niihau is rocky, and affords neithei
shelter nor anchorage. On the western side are some small bays or road-
steads, in which vessels may stop with proper precautions V a.u ..uver an-
chorcd off the Soiith point of the island in 14 fathoms, about three-quarters
of a mile off shore, bottom soft, sandy, regular, and good, the S.E. point

M2I

85r,

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

of tho island hearing 8. 77° E., the West point N. 48° W., and Kaula
Island 8. 68° W. Ho afterwards anchored in Yam Bay in 18 fathoms, with
tho N.W. point bearing N. 25° W. IJ mile off, the West point 8. 15° E.,
and Kaula 8. 43° W. ; but this position, though the general rendezvous for
ships, was a much worse position than the former one.

Cook anchored westward of the S.W. point during a strong easterly gale,
one anchor in 20, the other in 26 fathoms, the South point bearing E.S.E.,
and the bluff head to the South of the North point of tho road N.E. by N.

Admiral Boechoy says :— There is but one place in this bay, the same in
which Vancouver anchored, on the western side, where the boat of a man-
of-war can effect a landing with safety when the sea sets into the bay, which
is of very common occurrence ; this is on its northern shore, behind a
small reef of rocks that lies a little way off the beach ; and even here it
is necessary to guard against sunken rocks ; off the western point these
breakers extend IJ mile. The soimdings in the bay are regidar, upon a
sandy bottom, and with the wind from the eastward good anchorage, if
required, will bo found ; but it would not be advisable to bring up under
any other circximstance.

Lehua or Oreehoua Island, off the North end of Niihau, is a rugged, naked,
barren rock, to all appearance destitute of soil, and without any signs of
habitablenoss. It is of very small extent, and is separated from the larger
island by a channel about a mile in breadth, in which tho depth appeared to
bo very irrogiilar, and is therefore impracticable.

KAULA or Tahoora lies 4 or 5 leagues from tho S.E. end of Niihau, in a
8. 69° W. direction It is a small, elevated island, only inhabited by flocks
of birds, for whoso eggs it is visited occasionally.*

BIBD ISLAND or Nihoa is also considered as a member of the Hawaiian
archipelago. It lies 39 leagues N. 51° W. from Niihau; was discovered,
April 13, 1789, by Captain Douglas, of tho fyhigenia, who gave the name to
it. It had not been previously known to the inhabitants of the Sandwich
Islands, who afterwards called it Modu-manu, 's-hich also means Bird Island.
It is merely a barren rock, of volcanic origin ; it is bold all round, and is
tho resort of numerous flocks of sea-birds. Capt. Harvey, E.N., made a
plan of it, on a visit to it in H.M.S. Havana, Dec. 1856. The island was
found to be about three-quarters of a mile long, by one-third of a mile
broad, and 880 feet high, the North side being a perfect precipice ; but on
the South side there is a little bay where landing has been made in the
summer season. Tho master went as close as the boat could safely approach,
and pulled along the island to observe the practicability of a footing being

• Cook hoard of a iimall, low, uninhabited island called Tammataptippa, Modoo-pupappn,
Komodoopnpptt (i.e., flat island), about five bom's' sail from Tahoora. It wm said to be
vitiitud for Uu; piirposo of catcliing turtlu and aoa-fowl, but it bus uover been soen.

, and Kanla
ftthoms, with
at S. 15° E.,
adezvous for

laflterly gale,
iring E.S.E.,
S.B. by N.

the same in
lat of a man-
e bay, which
e, behind a
even here it

point these
ular, upon a
mchorago, if
ing up under

gged, naked,
any signs of
n the larger
appeared to

^fiihau, in a
;ed by flocks

he Hawaiian
} discovered,
the name to
le Sandwich
Bird Island.
)und, and is
.N., made a
) island was
rd of a mile
pice ; but on
made in the
ily approach,
joting being

Modoo-piipoppn,
wei8 xaid to hv

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20^ N.

«57

obtained in more moderate weather. Ho found within 600 yards tliere wore
soundings in 15 fathoms ; could only see one spot— a large boulder beach of
about 200 feet in extent — whore it appeared possible in the finest weather to
land. The men-of-war birds came round the boat in some numbers, and
were troublesome ; no seals, sea-lions, or animals of any description were
observed, nor any appearance of guano. From the formation of the rock
and the largo amount of heavy rain that falls in its vicinity, it is not possi-
ble that any quantity could accumulate ; nor were birds seen in such quan-
tities as to warrant the expectation. ^^

The surveying schooner Fenimore Cooper passed within a mile of this island,
and established ita position by three good sets of sights. It was found to be
half a mile long East and West, by a quarter of a mile in width, with a peak
at each extremity, the eastern one of which was made out to be 534 ft. high.
Captain Patty, of the schooner Maunakawai, thinks landing practicable,
although very difficult, at a small spur of sandy beach on the South side,
where he also found a small drain of fresh water ; and saw a few seal and
plenty of birds. Anchorage is from one-quarter of a mile to 2 miles off the
South side, in from 7 to 17 fathoms water.

This concludes the description of the islands composing the Hawaiian
Archipelago. In the subsequent paragraphs wo shall include all the islands
to the northward of lat. 20'', some of which lie to the eastward of the Sand-
wich Islands.

DETACHED ISLANDS AND SHOALS TO THE NORTH OF

LAT. 20" N.

Tho north-eastern part of the North Pacific is singularly free from isolated
reefs or lonely islands, or even of announcements of islands or vigias. On
the contrary, tho south-western part abounds with lurking dangers, coral
reefs and islands, and these have been multiplied to a very largo extent by
the vague notices derived from older authors, whose positions claim but
little consideration, or from the still more vague accounts given by whalers,
a class of ships whose estimate of position is of tho loosest character.
Generally keeping no proper dead reckoning, drifted in aU directions by
unheeded currents, very long out of sight of land in pursuit of their prey,
they have no means of giving a correct longitude or ov(m latitude, and tho
great similarity which exists among most of the coral reefs and islands,
renders their recognition when uninhabited very difficult. In consequence
of this the chai-t is apparently bestrewed with dangers, which it is certain do
not exist in tho immbers specified, but of which wo have no moans of de-
tiding as to their merits.

i i

858 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOKTH OF LAT. 20^ N.

LOS ALIJOS, or FaraUones Alijos, have been alluded to on page Uh.
Ah tliere stated, they lie off the southern portion of the Calif..ruian peninRula.
It is a dangerous reef, composed of four principal rocks, whicli in noaruig
them show themselves successively. The two hrst, mu.^h higlier than the
two latter, then appear alone. The highest is 98 feet, the lowest 56 feet
high They have so much tlie appearance of ships under sail, that such an
error, easily made at night, would expose a vessel to the greatest dangers.
The name of these rocks, first discovered in 1791 by Captain Marqiuwa, in
cu,uing from the Pliilippinos, and not again reported until Admiral Du
I'etit Thouars' examination, is expressive of their dangerous character-
.. rocks which land a ship's cargo." Latitude 2r 57' 25', long. 115 45
20' W.

GUADALUPE ISLAND lies off the northern part of the peninsula of
Lower California. It is high, with blutf shores on the North and West
sides, and may be seen from the mast-head, in clear weather, at the distance
of 20 leagues.

It is about 15 miles long by 5 miles broad, and is very lofty in the interior,
a chain of hills extending through the whole length of the island The
highest of these hills is over 2,000 feet high, and one near the North point
of the island is estimated to be even 3,412 feet in elevation. The island can
be seen at a distance of about 60 miles, and will appear, when bearing either
East or West, lower at its southern extremity than at its northern.

Off the South end of the island are two rocky islets at some distance from
the shore, tho outermost of which is 500 ft. high. The shores are in genera
bold but have not been closely examined; although it is said that a smal
cove exists on the S.E. shore, which is formed by some rocky islets, and
contains the only anchora^^^e in the island, the riding boingin 7 fathoms, and
tho shelter from all winds except those between S.E. and L.N.lv

From unerring indications, there is no doubt that it has been once volca-
nic • it is very barren on its Soutli end, but in the northern part there are
several fertile valleys, au.. tho mountains contain vegetation. Wooa and
water maybe obtained here from a small cove on the N.E. side ot tho
island, and goats' flesh may be had for the trouble of shooting the animal.

The' shores are free from dangers one-fourth of a mile from the island. Tho
only anchorage is on the S.E. side, in a small cove, formed by a few rocky
islets which lie off in that direction. Hero vessels may anchor m 7 fathoms
water, sheltered from all winds, excepting from S.E. to E.N.E., which sel-
dom blow here, as before stated.

This island was generally made by the Spaniards when bound to the
southward from Monterey, or from their other northern establishments ; in
which route they passed to tlie westward, out of sight of those island, that

w,y:',m

on page H.'j.
lan peninsula.
;li in noariny;
jlier than the
owest 56 feet
that such an
itest dangers.
Marqniua, in
Admiral Du
a character —
long. 113" 45'

I peninsula of
irth and West
at the distance

in the interior,
» island. The
e North point
rhe island can
bearing either
lern.

distance fi'oni
1 are in general
d that a small
;ky islets, and
7 fathoms, and

;.E.

sen once volca-
part there are
n. Wood and
.E. side of the
5 the animal,
the island. Tho
by a few rocky
i)r in 7 fathoms
■^.E., which sel-

1 bound to tho
iblishments ; in
ose islands that

REED HOCKS.

8.")0

form tho canal ol Sta. Barbara, for tho advantage of continuing in tlio
strength of tho N.W. winds; and thus they reached the Island ot Guada-
lupe, from whence they steei-ed a course for Cape San Lucas. The North
point is in lat. 29° 10' 50" N., long. 118^ 18' 30' W.*

Andrews Island, in lat. 24^ 30 N., long, lar 20' W., was seen l.y tho
barque Drnffon. Her <aptain describes it as low, but visible 10 mUes Oil.
This is all that is known of it, but it seems circumstantial.t

REED ROCKS.-It is stated that Mr. Eoed, master of the brig £mma, on
liPr route from Tahiti to San Erancisco, discovered, October 8 (1850 '0, two
rorks lying N.E. and S.W., one 150 fathoms long and 66 wide, the other
about' 100 fathoms long and 3S wide ; 5 fathoms wero got on one part and 3
fathoms alongside tho rock

It was thought that the sea would break on it

. Shclrocl. Island? Sir Edward Belcher says:-" On DecemLer U, 1837 passed clo.o
to Guadalupe, and then explored a degree on tho parallel where an i.land had lately been

jLted. to fall into tho parallel of SM.oes, S>u~lvoc^s, SMers, or Sl.rell.l.ud; st.enn«
a terly to Cape San Lucas, until I had sufficiently determined it« non-ex.tence within ...
miles East or West of its assigned position. Tho Venus also wont over the same ground on
nearly the same emmd, and with like success."

Lcaarde Roel; said to have heen seen by the French commander ot that name, in the

^t « . lo, isfiS in lit 31° 12' 15" N., long. 125= 0' W., showing as three

Jean Fierre, September, 1868, in lat. .si i^. lo ^^., g

points or peaks, 25 or 30 feet high, is most improbable in this great highway.

+ Henderson Island, marked at 160 miles East of this, is probably intended for the island
in South latitude. In ad<lition to this the following may bo noticed here East of Hawau :-

New Island, lat. 28' 2o N., long. 133» 0' W. from whaler report.

Caspar Hock, lat. 26° 30' N,. long. 131° W., a whaler report, is another disproved dan-

ger near this. ^^, .^ 250 30' N., long.

Cooper s Is and OT Bn'tUvrs, in lat. <!d 4S J^-. '<"'..- '" ^ -,, ^ v ^ ■ w,

1330 W. This position was sought over, without success, by the U.S. E.xplonng Ex-

'Iw," (whaler report) or Copper Island (China Mail), in lat. 20° 6' N., long. 131° 54' W.,
JZ iit!; lonStudo, and Copper I.land lat. 20° 20' X., long. 130° 54' W.. and also in
similar East longitude, may be repetitions of tho same report.

Mark, Laxara, lat. 27= 47' N., long. 130° 25' W. ; but this, besides several other positions
nef Thas bee; placed in longitude H4° 30' W., and 150° W. It is manliest, therelorc,
that nothing can be determined about it.
Harneys Rock, a whaler report, lat. 22° 0' N., long. 142° 0' W.
7s/««rf, in 21° 0' N., long, 149° 30' W. '

PhiU,delpnia Island, a whaler report, M. 29- 4' N., long. 165M6' W It .s nKirkcd .s
Bona Maria Laxara on some old charts; but one of the ships of tho U.h. Exploring Expo-
dition passed over tho site. Arabia Shoal is near it.

Palmer Reef is also improbable. It was said to have been scon in ihe K^/isher, m lat.
44° 23' N., long. 1-52° 53' W., but it is also on the timk of the U.S. Exploring ExpeQ.t.on,
July 7lh, 1841.

a :i

-^TiSiVSS^---^-'"

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20-^ N.

in heavy weather. Lat. 37° 24' N., long. 137° 27' W. They have been
alluded to in a note on page 199.

The U.S. sloop-of-war Falmouth saw rooks in the samp position in 1851.
Captain Bedfield, of the whaler Sutan Abigail, in 1R56 discovered, according
to observations which he calls excellent, 1 1 miles more to the northward,
some rocks, with about 10 feet of water over them, the largest 50 feet broad
and nearly 150 feet long, and S.S.E. of them one-fourth of a mile distant, a
discoloration of water indicating another and smaller rock. Most probably
these discoveries are one and the same danger, the position of which is the
mean of those given to them by the discoverers. The barks What-cheer in
1858 and Tanhie in 1863 report to have run over the position without seeing
anything.

Captain Rodfield's position is 37° 35' N., long. .\37» 30' W.

NECEER ISLE was discovered by La Ferouse, November 1, 1786. It is
very small, and is only a rock of 500 yards in length, and at most 360 feet
in height. There was not a single tree seen on it, but vegetation was
abundant towards its summit. The bare rock was covered with birds' dung,
and appeared white, contrasting with the different rod spots on which the
grass had not grown. Its shores are as steep-to as a wall, and the sea broke
with fury against it everywhere ; off its S.E. point only are a few rocks.
Its barrenness renders it unimportant to sailors, but its situation is not so,
and was determined by Captain Stanikowitch as 23° 34' N., long. 164°
47' 20" W.

It was surveyed by Lieut. Brooke, U.8.N., in the schooner Fenimore
Cooper, and its centre is placed in lat. 23° 35' N. (nearly on the tropic), and
long. 164° 40' W.

Lieut. Brooke's examination proves the island to be three-quarters of a
mile long, West by North and East by South, and 340 yards broad, with
two peaks, one at each longitudinal extremity, about 275 feet high, and a
small island about 100 yards to the North, connected with the larger by a
reef. He found from 15 to 18 fathoms water at 2 miles distance. Captain
Patty, of the Maunakawai, could not find any landing-place for boats, as the
surf broke all around.

It was visited soon after by Captain Brooks in the Gambia. He says : —
This island is rocky, and about 1^ to 2 miles long, surrounded by a bank
making off to tho southward about 50 miles, according to Captain Long's
statement. Captain Brooks crossed in lat. 23" 14', and found it to be
about 15 miles across from East to West. The western edge is very abrupt ;
the discolouration of the water may bo seen at a distance of 3, miles from the
mast-head. Soundings are from deep sea to 14 fathoms, which deepen to
the eastward gradually to about 35 fathoms. A vessel crossing this reef by

MW' * . ' ,! ' ! ;!;* -

have been

n in 1851.
, according
northward,
feet broad
I distant, a
it probably
hich is the
hat-cheer in
lOut seeing

786. It is
8t 360 feet
station was
tirds' dung,

which the
e sea broke

few rocks,
n is not so,

long. 164°

sr Fenimore
ropic), and

lartors of a
)road, with
igh, and a
arger by a
). Captain
lats, as the

tie says : —
by a bank
:ain Long's
id it to be
3ry abrupt ;
es from the
deepen to
his reef by

FRENCH FRIGATES SHOAL.

861

heaving-to ran take any quantity of fisli of very fine quality. There is a
ravine makes down from the S.E. end of the rock, where at some seasons
there is water. A boat may land in good water at the foot of this gulch.*

Arabia Shoal. — The ship Arabia sailed over a shoal with a large quantity
of kelp fast to the bottom, and extending S.S.E. and N.N.W. 2 miles by 1
mile in breadth. Tho load gave 1 1 fathoms in several places. Lat. 29° SO'
North, long. 155° 55' West. This shoal lying in tho route between tho
Sandwich Islands and N.W. America deserves a special examination.f

I^'rost Siioal, a bank with 17 and 20 fathoms water on it, was reported
in 1859 by the ship K L. Frost. It was of coral bottom, and said to be
upwards of 50 miles in extent North and South. Its position would be
about 23° 45' N., long. 163° 30' W. Nothing more is known about it.—
Naut. Mag. 1859, p. 606.

FBENCH FBIOATES SHOAL {Basse dea Fregates Francaiset) lies to the
N.W. of the Sandwich Islands, and was also discovered and named by La
Perouse, November 6, 1786, during his passage from Monterey to Macao.
It is a rocky bank, even with the water's edge. On its N.W. extremity is
an islet, or bare rock, of 100 yards in diameter, and 40 or 50 yards in
height. The space between this rock and the breakers is occupied by three
sand-banks, raised about 4 feet above the surface of the water. The astro-
nomer, M. Dagelet, made the islet in lat. 23° 45' N., long. 165° 60', and the
eastern point of the reef in long. 165° 40'. Capt. Stanikowitch gives it the
same position.

It remained unnoticed for many years, except by some wrecks upon it,
attributed, but in all probability without reason, to its wrong position on the
chart. But when the guano excitement arose it was examined by Lieut.
Brooke in the U.8.8. Fenimore Cooper, in 1859, who reported large deposits
of that substance. He made the islet in the centre to be in lat. 23° 46' N.,
long. 166° 16' 10" W., or 26' westward of Dagelet'a position. By the same
authority the East extremity is in 23° 44' N., long. 166° 5' W. ; the S.W.
end of the crescent 23' 41' N., 166° 13' W.

Lieut. Brooke spent four days in an examination of it, sailing all around
and through the inner passages. The guano islet or rock (120 feet high,

• Dtekeri Island, a whaler report, in 23» 24' N., 163° 6' W., and also in the same Hn.it
longitude, probably refer to this.

t A questionable island, L&nna Maria Laxara, before mentioned, has been shown near
this in lat. 29' 0' N., long. 165" 40' W.

I i

! it

•\

•I

802 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20- N.

180 foot base), with a small rock about 250 yards N.N.W. of it, he found in
the centre of the roef, and five dry sand-spits, the largest three-quarters of
a mile long, from the centre islet bearing N. 76^ E. (true). 4 nules d.stant ;
the next, 45» E., 6 miles distant; then a very small one N. 11 L o
nules; then one N. 8^ E., 4 J miles, also very small ; and lastly, one of halt
a milo diameter, N. 12> W., 5 milus distant from the centre rock Bes.des
these, heavy breakers were seen, N.W. i N. (tn.e). 6 -l-^^^^; ^ , ^
then E. by S. i S. miles, S.E. by E. i E., 5 miles, and S.W. J S oi mi s
from the rock. A passage was found nearly in a straight line from tie south
ward of the N.W. breakers, close by the central rock (West of it) to the
S.E. extremity of the reof. in from 12 to 17 fathoms. Lieut. Brooke s posi-
tion of the central rock is from the mean of a number of excellent observa-
tions; the variation he made (1859) 9" 15' E.

It was subsequently visited by Captain N. C. Brooks, in the American
barque Gambia in May, 18.9, and with the Modern Times, for the purpose of
removing the guano, but none could bo found. He says :-

Next visited French Frigate Shoal, situated in lat. 28^ 46' N long. 166^
14' W or rather this is the position of the principal rock, on which is the
very large and extensive deposit of guano reported to exist there. The reel
is crescent-shaped. about 45 mUes in circumference. The position as given
by Captain Brooks, of the Gambia, differs from Lieut. Brooke, of theU^S.
Burveying schooner Fenimore Cooper. Captain Brooks is of opinion that his
position is the correct one, as he has taken observations on both voyages to
L place. He also landed on sixteen small islands or ^--^J''\''^;;'''2Z
rounded the rock. One point of the crescent is to the N.W. and the other
bears S S E. The shoal is protected on the N.E. and S.E. by a reef on
which thesurf breaks heavily, ^he guano rock is about ISO^et long and
40 feet wide at the base, and rises very abruptly to the height of 125 feet
forming a ridge, at each end of which there is a space of about 12 square It.
This rock is situated in about the centra of the shoal, and can be seen at a
distance of some 8 miles, and closely resembles a fuU-rigged brig^ These
shoals open to the West. There is no danger outside of the Ime of breakers
There is good anchorage inside in from 5 to 14 fathoms water. Jte largest
sand-spit of the group bears about N.E. by E. from the rock, about 4 miles
distant Inside of this spit there is a good harbour, where a vessel of any
draught of water may enter and lie in safety from the sea with good an-
chorale Water may be obtained on the largest of these spits at about 6
feet below the surface. It is very brackish, and strongly i-Fegnated with
lime The shoals abound with fish and tmtle.-Naut. Mag. Sept. 1860.

Amone the more remarkable wrecks was the Daniel JFoorf, a whaler, on
Anril 14th, 1859. The crew Uved on the islets for some time, but were
rescued The South Seaman was totaUy wrecked on them March 13, 1859,

he found in
e-quarters of
liles distant ;
N. 11" E., 5
f, one of hall'
)ok. Besides
im the rock ;
J S. 5i miles
om the south -
of it), to tho
Jrooko's posi-
lUent observa-

the American
he purpose of

N. long. 166'
t which is the
3re. The reef
sition as given
le, of the U.S.
)inion that his
oth voyages to
)it8 which sur-
and the other
E. by a reef on
) feet long and
ht of 125 feet,
it 12 square ft.
,n be seen at a
d brig. These
ine of breakers,
p. The largest
:, about 4 miles
a vessel of any
I with good an-
spits at about 8
ipregnated with
Sept. 1860.
od, a whaler, on
I time, but were
March 13, 1859,

OARDNER TSLAND-MARO REEF.

8 till

hnt the crew of that vessel were also saved. The R.hecca was lost b; .uis-
taking the rock for a ship.

rl ™ rr -d, tU o,.y Lo le... and b»ido. U,e.e .,,r.l .eof. g~w
*:«:;™pty...ime.. and .h.«fo« oa««o„ .h..u.d ... ue«4 whe. „ca,
i« iwition, about lal. 23' 52 N., lo„g. 16lr 10 W.

GAEDNEE ISIAHD wa, di.coT.re,l ly C«rtai» A\l™, of ll.o M»
,, W 2 1«2« Thoro is no dool.l bnt that it i» tl.o »n,o a» Ihe *»-

"it Z and b/ww »,t and PoH..^ M..i. of tbo An.cri.an,.
1 k^ to tt,d Lever, it i. a -mall i.land, about a mile u, .■,m.n,-

r:r^r.w ;:o .et\i,„ b..in, . i., «.w pob. ... ....e ,^

• \(f in thn N W Capt. Stanikowit(^h places it in lat. 25 .5 JN., ion„.
TsmTo VV L^rBrooI U.S.N., ■nal.o. it ,, furtbe, We.t. By h,.
deL-pt nUi..a inaceo..iblo roek, 170 foot bigb, .-itU a ba.o of abou
rooSt. and a on.aUe, .e. ^^^^^71^:^:^ li:!.

ri^rttirir::.-:---- — - -•

8 miles.

Two Bbotheks Reef was so named by Krusenstern from the vessel

Two BEOTHERS .^ .^ ^^ ^j^^^ ^^ ^^^ tJ.^

which was supposed to bo wrecKea on i ,

r;\rrprK."Bj::^"^"rpiro;:ttpo,Laof

'.: ilid ^l':'!T4. . N.. ler ey W., ,i.bout seoiag aaytbing, ItUongh
thera was OTOr, indication of land in the viomty.

KAEO EBET wa. di.»v.red by Captain Allen, in tho American whale-
4^:1 ..no, 1S20 in lat. 2. 2. « ^^^^^J^Z

!::rn:i:rirr:i;°or^d«hofhie.e..o.atemueeo..

HispoBitiouofiti8lat.25°46'N.,long.l71 49E. _

It was placed by Lieut. Brooke. U.S.N., N.W. end lat. 25 31 N., long.

'^P ?• ^" C Brooks says :-We next ran for Maro Shoals, in lat. 25"
JTT fno^sTw These ehoals cover an area of about 35 miles in
30' N., long. '^l'}j-\^^^^^^ ,ith breakers.. They may be seen on a
rXTrl o^-tirdistance ; the discoloration of water .ay be
noTced L soon as the breakers are seen. The shoals are enclosed by a hne

864 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20^^ N.

of detached breakers, and have a sandy bottom, with 1 fathom of water,—
no rock or land above the surface, nor any lagoon inside. I consider thoso
shoals very dangerous, as the breakers aro low and scarcely to be distin-
guished from sea caps.

LATSAN or Holler Island is an American discovery. Captain Staniko-
witch, not knowing that it had been previously seen, gave it the name of his
vessel. It is a small, low island, inhabited, of a circular form, with a Ifigoon,
and 6 miles in circumference. From his observations it lies in lat. 25° l(i
North, long. 171^9' W.

Lieut. Brooke, U.S.N., makes it in lat. 25° 47' 17" N., long. 171° 52' 47
West, and to be 2 miles long and l\ mile broad, a low island, covered with
shrubs. This is also stated by Capt. Longbank of the barque Clara.

Captain Brooks says that Laysan Island is in lat. 25° 46' N., long. 171"
49' W., is 3 miles long and 2i broad, and covered with a luxuriant growth
of shrubs. It is surrounded by a reef about half a mile from the land.
Outside of this reef there is a bank 5 miles wide, on which I found from 14
to 19 fathoms water. There is a boat passage inside the reef nearly the
whole way round the island. Good landing can be found anywhere, ex-
cepting on the South and S.E. sides; good anchorage anywhere on the
West side ; the best, however, is about half a mile from the 8.W. point, in
from 8 to 12 fathoms water. It can be approached from any point of tho
compass, no dangers existing within half a mile of the reef. On the East
end of the island I found tho remains of a wreck, but saw no signs of a

camp.

There is a lagoon on the island about 1 mile long and half a mile wide,
with 6 fathoms water in the centre, and coral bottom. On the shores of this
lagoon I found salt of good quality.

There are five palm-trees on the island, and I collected twenty-five varie-
ties of plants, some of them splendid flowering shrubs, very fragrant, re-
sembling plants I have seen in gardens in Honolulu. I saw on the beach
trunks of immense tree.^ The island contains about fifty acres of good soil.
It is covered with a variety of land and sea birds ; some of the land varieties
are small and of beautiful plumage. Birds' eggs were abundant.

There is a very small deposit of guano on this island, but not of sufficient
quantity to warrant any attempts to get it. Dug a well and found very good
water. The reefs here abound in fish and turtle.*

• Bunker Iiland, according to Captain Kotzebne, was discovered by an American, Jan.
11 1816 in lat. 28° 20' N., long. 172° 30' W, And there is an island named Philadelphiit
in the American list, in lat. 28° 0', long. 173° 30' W. Captain Patty, of the schooner Ma-
nmkaxvai, sought for it without siiccess.

a of water, —

ionsider thoso

to be distin-

)tain Staniko-
e name of liis
with a Ifigoon,
in lat. 25° Ki

g. 171° 62' 47'
covered with
Clara.

N., long. 171"
uriant growth
rotn the land,
bund from 14
jef nearly the
anywhere, ex-
rwhere on the
J.W. point, in
y point of tho
On the East
no signs of a

If a mile wide,
e shores of this

enty-five varie-
■y fragrant, re-
on the beach
ea of good soil,
e land varieties
lant.

lot of sufficient
bund very good

in American, Jan.
anied Philadelphia
' the Bchooner Ma-

LISIANSKY ISL.VNl).

sr.r.

LISIANSKY ISLAND was .liRn.vorcd l.y Capt. Lisianslcy in tho KuRsian
«hi,. AVn,, Htrikiut; -m its reef on October i:., IHO'.. and was u.arly wrecko.l.
ArrordinK to its discovuror's doscripti.m, it is u Muall, low island, almost oti
a lovol with tho floa, ox.liisivo of a small omino.uo on tho oastorn part. Its
Hoil consists of coral sand, ovor-n.wn with grass and croqun^' i-lants, and
full of holes. Tlioro is not any wat.^r to bo found, and conso.iuontly thorn
arc no troos or shrubs. Msiansky found sovoral largo trunks of troos thru^vn
ou to tho boach. llo calls tho sliallow S.E. part of tl.o oxtonsivo roof, m tl..
nuddlo of which tho island stands, t'.o iXrra Shoal, from his vessel, ih.s is
about 1.J milo E.S.E. fr. inv island from liis plan.

Oaptaiu N. C. Brooks visited it in tho Gambia in 1859. IIo says :-Lis.-
ansky, I.assion, and I'ell are ono and tho same island. On most charts
„nito a group is laid down, but thoro is only ono island, s.tuatcMl u. lat. 'U
N..rth long. 173^ 57' West. It is 3 miles long and 2 miles wulo, an<l is
Burroundod by a reef, on which tho sea breaks heavily. A bank nmkes olf
several miles, on which there is 19 fathoms water, shoaling to 8 fathoms near
tho reef This reef is about half a mile from the island on the East and
North sides ; on the West side it extends in a circular form at a distance of
2.i utiles, the inside forming a lagoon. This island should not be appn.ached
from tho South, as a line of detached breakers makes off for many miles and
.an scarcely be distinguished from sea caps. Upon this line the lohhr
Harden and Conahamtt wore lost. This island should bo approached fn>m
the North and by standing round to the westward, the island boarmg duo
East Good anchorage may be found anywhere outside the lagoon, m from
,0 to 14 fathoms. In entering the lagoon on a lino with tho reef, there are
two very large breakers about three-quarters of a mile apart, being Nortli
Hiid South of each other. Between these, on the same line, are l ser
breakers, through which a vessel may enter in a channel about a quarUr ot
a mile wide, with 4 fathoms water. Just inside tho roof I found l"^ la* 'oms,
gradually shoaling towards the land. A vessel may an,:l.or within hall a
uiilo of land in 4 fathoms water, with good anchorage. There are rocks
under water in this lagoon, which may easily be avoided by keeping a good
look-out at the mast-head. I found about a 2-knot current setting North
and South; tide rises and falls 24 inches. Good water may be ob ained
hero with very little trouble. The shoals abound with fish and turtle.
Landing can bo effected anywhere on tho island. On tho South end, near
the centre, there has been a lagoon, but it is now partially overgrown with

'^On 'the East point, about half-way, is a hill about 40 feet high, with a
look-out pole and cask. On the South end I founu a ship's liouse, whuh
had been used to sleep in. On tho North end I saw the trunk of a redwood
tree 12 feet in circumference. On tho West side found a noti.n l.fr, by the
iia>il>in,o, taking possession for parties in San Kraiui.sco, date,l A,,n1 '2,.h,
North Pdci/iv.

«nr, ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. '20- N.

1S')9. T roiiNidiT tho lead tlio safest pfuide at niKht amoiip; these islands, as
llioy aro nil sHrroundml by a bank for some distance off aliore. Tassed over
tlio position of Nova Island, but saw no land.

There is a dan(?orous shonl dist-ovored by Captain iStanikowitnh in 1827.
The eastern oxtron.o of this lies S.H. i S. 7 J miles from the N.W. part of tho
island, and its western extremity at the distaneo of 4 miles.

The islands called T.ndar, Lanan Ri/n, Lanniano, NeavM, and Nn>a* aro
doubtless intended for tho above, as the positions of most of them have been
pnsaod over. It has been also called Sapron Mmd, and Pell Mand by Capt.
Tell, of tho whaling brig Mawatr.

Capt. liisiansky places the centre of the island in lat. 26" 2' 48" N., loiif?.
173° 42' 30" W. ; Captain Brooks, as before stated, in longitude 173" 57

West.t

A Bank, reported by Captain Pell, of the brig Delaware (see note below)
in Int. 2.0- 50', long. 174" 26', or, according to whaler report, P more to the
enstward, apparently lies to the S.W. of Tiisiansky Island. Lieut. Brooke.
U.S.N., of tho Fenimore Cooper, found bottom at 15, \1, 18, 20, 25, and 40
fathoms, between the parallels of 25" 43' N. and 26= 3' N., and the meridians
of 173" 29' W. and 173" 32' W. It appears to be a south-westerly extension
of the bank around Lisiansky, which island the Cooper could not gain on
account of stormy weather.

The PEARL and HEEMES REEF is an extensive shoal, on which two
British whalo-ships, tho Pearl and the Hermes, were wrecked on tho same
night, and within 10 miles of each other, April 26, 1822. They were cast
away on tho East side of the i.slaud, and were fortunate in having favourable
weather for several days, which enabled them to save a great portion of

• Nern hiand, in 26° 50' N., 172° 20' W., was not soon by Captain Patty, schooner
Manuakauai, nor by Capt. Brooks in tho Gambia, as above stated.

t Some very doubtful islands have been announced in this neighbourhood.

An island, lat. 28° li.V N., long. 171° 42' W. (China Mail).

Mastarhmetta Island, Int. 28° 30', long. 176° 50' W., whaler report. Captain Tatty, of the
scVooncr Manuakauai, ran over the pliicc without seeing it, or Philadelphia Itland, lat. 28°
20' N., long. 172° 30' W.

New Island, 2()" 2t' N., 170° .54' Iv, and Bassioim Mand, 26° 6' N., 173° 27' E., are both
from wlialer report, and nro vory doubtful. Laysatis Ry» and Laskar See/, sometimes
placed henHboiits, itro evidently Lisiansky Island, badly spelt, and placed in East instead of
West longitude.

Drakes Island, a wh.alir report, lut. 2.5" 30' N., long. 174" 0' W., is probably Lidansky

Island.

An island in 21° 0' N., long. 176° 30' \V., from whaler report.

Palmer Heff, acroviing to Captain F^^lmer, nf thfi Kinfffixker, in lat. 20° 54' N., long.
173° 26 NV., Ins 4 feet water over il.

■'WWrnH^Piai

' N.

inp inlandfl, a^
I'aHned over

ritoh in 1827.
W.partof th»

nd iV«'fl,* aro
lom have been
inland by Capt.

48" N., lon(?.
itude 173° 67

JO note below)
P more to the
Lieut. Brooke,
!0, 25, and 40
. the meridiana
terly extension
id not gain on

on which two
I on the same
hey were east
dng favourable
eat portion of

I Patty, schooner

)od.

)tain Patty, of the
hia Itland, lat. 28"

1° 27' E., aro both
• Reef, sometimes
in East instead of

rohably Lidansky

20° of N'., lon^.

THE I'K.MM. AN!) UKKMKS IJKEK.

Si»7

fhoir Htoros, an<l t(. l.uil.l a v.-hs..I of about .'?•> t.ms from th.> wr.vks; tliin

thry di<l in six w.m-Um, ami r.-ii. li.xl tit.' Saiidwi.li Islands in saf.'ty.

It wa8 viHitod by Mnrn.Jl in IHj:., by Sta.iikowit. h in 18J7. and a plan of

it \f^ Kivon by Captain Dup-rroy. 'Ib.T.. an- runsi,l..ial.l.' .lilf.MvncoH in tli.>

ro8j)0('tivo poHitioiiH awHiffuctl by I'Mih.*

Taptain Stanikowitch miys it ...nHists of s..v.'ral small inlands, of wliirli

the two largest are nnm.'d IVarl and HormHs, ♦.u.inled by a r.-of. thr.mKli

which is a passage by which ll... /W/.vnu/.r passed t.. an andiora^'.- near tho

lurjifost of i\w two islands.

("aptuin N. (!. Hrooks says that tho grotip consists of fw.-lvo islands, sin-
round.Hl by a reef oO miles in circumference, on whi.h tho sea l)rcaks heavily
It is open from the West. There is a lagoon inside, where I found from •.
to l.-) fathoms withii\ 2 miles of the land. A vessel may approach from any
point. The largest island, which b(.ars E. by S. 4 S. from the .-ntrance. may
be approached within 2 miles safely. There is good anchorage outside, in
from 8 to 12 fathoms, on the N.W. siih*. Current sets to the North and
Soutli at the rate of 2 knots. Tide rises 24 inches, the prevailing wind-*

being from the E.S.E.

The largest islands are covered with coarse grass and trees. I saw the
remains of the two wrecks, the keel, stem, and stern-post, with three iron
tanks, stiU standing. I brought away a wooden mortar used by the party
ou shore. The remains of the camp still exist on tho large island. I took
possession of this group. A ban!- makes off to the East and North for about
a mile, and to the West for several miles, with from 8 to Ki fathoms, and no
dangers outside the breakers. Tlenty of Hsh ami turtle.

It was partially examined and the positions established by Captain
Reynolds, in the U.S.8. Lackawanna, in 1807. He says :_I'earland Hermes
reef, like Ocean and Brooks Islands, has a coral wall above water at its
N.W. extreme, which, however, shows more in the shape of detached rocki
than as a continuous parapet, and. soon expending itself beneath the surface,
does not reappear, at least so far as our examination showed ; this was not
very close, as I had time only to get the outline of the reef.

The N.E. corner includes a sand island. Another showed itself some miles
to the westward in the lagoon. Three others lie along the southern edge of
the reef, which turning to the northward and westward, close to the western-
most iskud, soon after ceased to show any signs of breakers. .Shoal water,

• Delmmre Bank -IXxo American brig /)«/.'"«'A H. Ihwit, libiitou.nt-conimander, dis-
covered a bank above tho water iu lat. 27^ 26' N., long. 171= 2.V N., in 1814. which seen at
Kome miles dist^mce, appeared to be 12 or U .dlen long. It is st.ted, aUo that th.re aro
several others in the neighbourhood, many of whieh are not know>. It should bo noticed
that this Delaware Bank is above water, and 95 miles to the North of that noticed

above. „

3 K 2

!■

{

808

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20^ N.

liowovor, makos diit for somo miles to tho West, mul then trends in nortJi-
eastorly towards the N.W. rocks. In tliis tlio western side of the reef re-
Honibles Frcncli Frigate slioals.

We made the circumference of the reef to l)e 42 miles. Its shape is
irregidar, its diameter from North to Sontli 91 miles, from East to West 1(J
miles. N.E. point of reef, hit. 27" 60' ao' N., long. 176" 40' 0" W. ; S.W.
vnd, lat. 27" 48' 4.5' N., long. 17G° 0' 30" AV. ; S.E. jioint, lat. 27'^ 48 0' N.,
long. 17S°47' 30" W.

OCEAN or Cure Island is an American discoveiy, tlio existence of which
WAS confirmed by Captain Stanikowitch, of the Imperial Eussian navy, in
1827. It is a small low, and very dangerous island. It was examined hy
(^aptain W. Eeynolds, U.S.N., in tho ship Lackawanna, in 1867, and is thus
described : —

Ocean Island is almost tho facsimile of Brooks Island, as will appear from
an ins^KJction of tho chart. It connnences also with a coral wall at its N.W.
extreme, which continues without a break until it dips under water about the
centre of the Green Island, but does not crop out again. From the end of
the wall the line of breakers continm.'s to their termination about a mile West
of tho N.W. end of the Sand Island ; from thence to the N.W. rocks the
water is shoal, and atl'ords no entrance into tho lagoon, all of which is
shallow water.

The Green Mand is identical in appearance from the sea with Middle
IJrooks Island, except that some portions of the shrubbery appeared to
have gi-own a few feet higher. There is a small sand spit between it and
tho Sand Island, as is the case at Brooks island; but tho Sand Island here
has not more than 10 feet elevation above the level of the sea. The trunk
(and roots) of a large tree was lying high and dry on the S.E. side of this
Sand Island, and on the N.E. end of the Green Island we saw a ship's lower
mast, which looked as if it had recently got ashore.

This reef is 14| miles in circumference; no outlying dangers seen from
the masthead, and no other land.

Sand Island is in lat. 28° 24' 45" N., long. 178° 27' 45" W. ; N.W. point
of Green Island, lat. 28° 24' 50" N., long. 178° 26' 5" W.

Captain Brooks describes it as consisting of three small islands or rocks
KUrroundcMl by a reef 30 miles in circumference. This is the island on which
Captains King and Molteno were wrecked in the Gledstone. The Amorician
whale ship Parker was also lost here. A bank makes off round this reef
at a distance of a mile with 23 to 30 fathoms water. The three islands are
on a line East and West. The surf makes off to the East a quarter of a
mile, and to th(! N.W. 12 miles. The reef opens to tho S.W. for about 3
miles. The host anchorage is found by bringing the N.W. point of tlie
breakers North, in from 7 to 12 fathoms water, one mile from tlie reef.

20^ N.

fiT'iids in noi'tli-
i) of tho reef ro-
es. Ks hliapo is

East to West 1(^
ur ()' W. ; s.w.
at. 27-' 48' 0" N.,

existence of wliielt
Russian navy, in
ivas examined by
18G7, and is thus

will appear from

. wiUl at its N.W.

3r water about the
From the end of

ibout a mile West
N.W. rocks the
all of which is

sea with Middlo
sery appeared to
t between it and
Sand Island hero
sea. The trunk
S.E. side of this
saw a ship's lower

angers seen from

W.; N.W. point

islands or rocks
le island on whicli
Tho American
F round this reef
three islands are
3t a quarter of a
l.W. for about 3
'.W. point of the
ie from the reef.

r.IlOOKS OE MIDWAY ISLANDS.

861)

Current sets North and South about 2 knots. Tido ri.si>s '22 incln s. Tlicy
can bo approaclii'd from any point, and can be soon from tho niast-hoad H
miles, boing about 20 feet hif;h, and covered witli bushes. On tho North
end of the large island, which is ^ miles long by \l mil(>s wide, thoro lias
been a lagoon, but it is now overgrown. On this itdand I found tlio rciuaiii^*
of wrecks. Good water may be obtained m\ this island. 'I'he second island
in size is about 2 miles hmg and Imlf a mile wide, with littk) vegetation, few
fowls, and plenty (tf turtle. Tho tliird is a nu'ro sand-spit.

It is probably the samo as tliose described as Mdmichimrfls Inlands of tho
Americans, and I)ri/ Island, with an attached reef, of Captain Joy.

BROOKS OR MIDWAY ISLANDS.— This atoll is of mucli more intercut
than its uninhabited and barren condition would warrant. It was di«covcroil
by Captain N. C. Brooks, in the Gambia, July /Jth, 1859. lie called tho two
islands Middlehrooh Islands, and took possession of them for tho United
States, leaving a Kamtehatkan as a settler. On his r<>t'irn h(> kept its posi-
ti(jn a secret, and his discovery was utilized by the I'^u i'ic Mail Company,
who intended forming a depot here for their Trans-racific steamers, in prc;-
feronce to Honolulu, which was thought to bo under foreign influence, es-
tablisliing here a coaling and refreshment' station.

With this view it was closely examined in SeptcMubor, ISCi?, by Captain
Reynolds, U.S.N., in tho lackawanna, and tlio following is his report, as
published by tho U.S. Bureau of Navigation.

Tho reef encircling Brooks Island is pear-shaped, with its stem part to
tho eastward. It is 18 miles in circumference, as nujasurcd by the patent log
in the two circuits around it, and is without a break, exco])t on its westciu
side. At the N.W. point is a little patch of breakers, a few detached rocks,
and then commences a compact coral wall of about .5 feet elo,-r.^''iTi and, as
far as our observation went, from 6 to 20 feet in width, which continues fnv
41 miles to tho southward and eastward, when it loses its uniformity of Hur-
faco, and presents a lino of detached rocks, very little mru-e than awash, for
2.i miles to the southward ; there, oflf tho centre of Middlo Brooks Island,
tho rocks dip under water, but re-appear 2 miles to I lie westward, from
whenco they again show as a continuous wall for about 4.} miles to tho
northward and westward, ending there, and forming tho South side of the
entrance to Welles II rlour.

The entrance is about three-quarters of a niilo wide, and from its northern
edge to the N.AV. rocks there is n bed of c<n'al from 1 to Ifi fothoms, sliowing
above water in one place, with occasiimal brcidvcrs.

The nortliern, eastern, and .southei-u portions of the reef are stccp-to, ti>
the rocks. We saw tho bottom in two places only where tlio soundings aro
shown on the diart.

On the \Vc«t side sheltered an.lionige, during lh(> trade winds, < an be had

^70 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF 1,AT. 20' N.

in from 10 to 13 fatlidins, but on a very fovil bottom. The best out^tide an-
clujr.ige is in Snrard fio<i(h, in 10 to 18 fathoms water.

Middle Brooks Island.— At the oastom extremity of t)ie rcf, or in the
stom of the poar, is Middle Brooh Inland, also poar-sliapod, one and a quarter
miles in lengtli, and latlf a milo wide. Its North point is in lat. 28° 13' 30
North, long. 177= 18' 20" West, of a nearly uniform elevation, varying from
6 to 1.5 feet, covered with a growth of small shrubs, coarse grass, and some
vines. The soil is all cural fiund, and sliells, exct'i)t a small portion on the
South side, where there are u few acres of mould 2 feet in dopth. No black
earth is to bo found on tliis island. The beach is of u dazzling wliiteness.
% digging 4 to 7 ft-et, water is reached, whicli becomes potable after
(Standing.

A mile and a qu»rt*-r West of Middle Brooks Island is Lower Brooks Inland
(a small sspt. intervening a sand heap of irregular sJjape, IJ miles long,
three-quarters of a mile broad, atid 57 feet high at the flagstaff, it? greatest
elevation).

Vegetation is j;wwt commencing .u this island, m the shape of detached
(lumps of stnibs around portions of its edge, and an occasional growth of
grass, the greatest abundance being on its S.W. extremity. No black earth
is to be found on it ; on the contrary, the glart- from tlie white sand dis-
tresses tlie eye.

Captain liurdett iuforaied mo that he had seen 2;'><) yard*, of it wash
away, and begin to re-form, during the few weeks lie had be*-n ashore. The
eand spit up by the N.W. rocks, which was quite conspicuous when we an-
chored near it ou the 16th, had almost disappeared by the 27th, when I
landed ou it : but, from the quantity of sand thereabouts, I
mancnt sand island is forming.

On the lower island the agent of the Pacific Mail Company has established
himself, because it borders ou the harbour.

Welles Harbour is formed very much like that of Honolulu, is rather
more roomy and as safe, but has not quite the same depth of water on its
bar, having but from 21 to 16 feet at low water. The anchorage is in lat.
28" 14' N., long. 177= 23' 15" W.

The bar is quite narrow, and has an uneven bottom of coraJ rock and small
sand holes. Its depth varies from 21 to 16 feet, but changes so often and so
constantly, from 3^ to 3 fathoms, as to make it unsafe to count on crossing it
without getting a thvee-fathoma cast or two. We had 19 feet going in, and
two casts of 18 feet in going out, both times at low water.

Like Honolulu, the entrance to it is from the West, through a nrn-row
opening in the coral reef 800 feet across where most contracted. It can be
entered as readily as Honolulu at all sea.«inns of the year. Depth of water
for anchoring 5 lo 7 fathoms, white sandy bottom.

This hai-bour is cut ofl" from the lagoon by shoal water ^ mile in width ;

presume a per-

N.
t outride an-

I'f, or ia the
iiul a (juarter
. 28° 13' 30'
varying from
m, and some
)rtion on the
,. No black
ig whiteness.
)otable after

Brooks Inland

miles long,

, its greatest

of detached
al growth of
black earth
te sand dis-

uf it wash
ashore. The
ivhen wo an-
7th, "nhen I
5ume 11 per-

i established

u, is rather
irater on its
po ia in lat.

)k and small
aften and so
ri crossing it
)ing in, and

i a narrow
. It can be

th of water

1 m w

BROOKS ISLANDS— WELLES nAIiBOlIK.

H71

and our survey, carefully inade, does not disclose a jiassago anywlieri) lor
ships into the lagoon.

It would be possible for a light-draught vcs.scl to get into lh»' lagoon by
passing to the northward of the "middle ground," and threading hor way
in among the rocks, but no channel proper for ships exists.

The lagoon is 2 miles in length, and one and a half miles wi(li> at its
greatest breadth. There are numy <oral lumps in it, witli Iroiu 1 or 2 fa-
thoms water over them ; otherwise these soundings are regular, over a white
sandy bottom.

Welles Harbour itiust, theref(U-f, be the res(n-t for shijjs drawing less
than 18 I'oet, or, at high water, of a little over that draught. Vessels of
deep draught must lie in IScward Iluada, picking out a sandy bottom to let
go in.

The greatest rise and fall of the tide, observed during the neap tides, was
18 inches; the lowest 15 inches. Ebb runs 6i hours, flood 5 J hours. From
the appearance of the beach I suppose the rise of the spring tides is as much
as 3 feet, which would allow a deeper draught to be carried over the bai- at
those periods. The bar is well within the entrance, and there is no swell on
it during the trade winds.

The flood sets to the northward, the ebb to the stnithward, from 1 knot to
'2. At Welh's Harbour the current always ran out to the westward, with
very little strength.

T'he coral shelf which runs from the N. W. end of the reef to the southern
wis ^-ives very irregular soundings, having deep fissures between the rocks,
and again spaces of sandy bottom. On this shelf, at our anchorage of the
2;Jrdof August, we lost one anchor with 1.5 fathoms chain, and broke the
flukes ofi" another ; could not recover either of them, although we searched
for them with all the boats for five days.

Two circuits of ihe reef made with the ship, with good look-outs aloft,
disclosed no dangers outlying it ; and, so far as our observation goes. Pearl
and Hermes Eeef to the eastward, and Ocean Island to the West, are the
only dangers in the way of direct approaijb.

Steamers, in approaching Brooks Island from the eastward, should make
MiddU' Brooks island, and follow the southern wall t<> the entrance of the
hariwur. If coming fnmi the West, the Lower Island should be nuide.
Sailing vesst'ls from the eastward, during the trade season, .•should keep to
northward of the reef, and pass around tl^- N.W. rocks, to retain a fair
wmd for Seward Iloads. Square-rigged vessels must warp into the hai-bour
with easterly winds.

On 'die N.E. beach irf Middle Broctks Island a brok-ti lower mast of a
Khip is lying; it is 2A fet't in diameter and strengthened ^vith iron Ininds.
Oti the East beat h and on the blufl' oci a^'inai drift timber Ls to be met with,
*nd oome lumber, moytly .spruce and redwood. On the Wetst aide or lagoon

^*ws^>«Twm)ii

87'J

IS .ANDS AND SHOALS NOETII OF LAT. 20^ N.

Inacli, is 11 Tiortion of the trunk of a redwood troo 5 fent in diamctur, and also
till' skoloton of a calf spcmi wlmle. On tho lagoon side of the other island
two lower masts of junks are stranded, and several redwood logs elsewhere,
one of these over 2 feet in diameter.

Tropic birds, men-of-war hawks, and gidls, swarm npon those islands. A
few curlew and plover are the only land birds mot with. Turtle abound, but
seals were seen only occasionally. Fish of many varieties in great abund-
ance ; we hauled the seine frequently, catching enough for all hands ; among
them man}' fine mullet.

As there is more than ordinary interest in tliis lonely spot, we add tho
account given by the naturalist, S. D. Kennedy, Esq., surgeon to the Lacka-
wanna.

I have made an examination of the soil, growth, and water upon Brooks
Island, and have to report as follows : —

These are two long low islands chiefly fonued of coral shells and sand.
They lie in a lagoon surrounded by a barrier reef, except at one point,
where a breach in its continuity affords an entrance of throe fathoms in
depth.

The North island is one mile in length and half a mile in width ; while
South Island is somewhat larger and higher, but has less soil and scantier
vegetation. A beach consisting of white sand, disintegrated shells and
coral, extends from the lagoon to a distance of from 50 to 100 yards all
around the North island. Inside of this space the island grad.ially sloping
from its two higher points (the north-eastern 15 feet, and northwestern 8
feet), is covered with a growth of coarse grass and low shrubs. From its
north-eastern point a ledge of coral rock, lying at an angle of five degrees,
extends about 100 yards into the lagoon. From this point a fringing reef of
the same kind of rock, at about the same declination, runs for two-thirds of
tho extent of the eastern side of the island.

Judging from this peculiarity of coral formation, and the numbers of dead
sheUs, corals, and moUusks found on the highest points, this portion of the
island seems to be emerging.

Over all that part of tlie island where vegetation is found, there is a
superficial layer of fine, porous, grayish sand ; but generally it is devoid
of vegetable mould. Beneath, you come at once to coarse sand and
gravel.

On tho South side of the island there is a slight depression, embracing
about five acres, extending from N.N.E. to S.S.W. This area has a super-
ficial stratum of vegetable mould from 18 inches to 2 feet in depth, mixed
with a small pfsr-oentage of guano ; beneath this is a layer of coarse sand of
tho depth of oik; foot, and l)olow this anotlicr stratum of hiose stone, shells,
and corals, closely packed together, extending down to tlic hard coral. This
foundation of tho island, as of thereof, consists of nuidrepore, meandrina,

^■wrr-rt^sa^jsr

tor, and also
othoi' islanil
i elsowhoro,

islands. A
abound, l>ut
;roat abuntl-
rids ; among'

wo add tlu!
3 the Lacka-

pon Brooks

i and sand,
ono point,
fathoms in

idth ; while
,nd scantier
shells and
)0 yards all
ally sloping
1 -western 8
From its
re degrees,
ging reef of
ro-tl'irds of

lers of dead
:tion of the

there is a
t is devoid
» sand and

embracing
IS a supor-
pth, mixed
irso sand of
ono, shells,
onil. This
iieandrina,

BlIOOKS OR MIDWAY ISL.VNDS.

873

and poritos coral. But littlo of the rod coral can be found about the island
or in the lagoon. This embraces tho wholo extent of anything like true soil
that I was able to find on the island. This moidd is, I think, of sulUcient
richness to raise potatoes, peas, beans, and other vegetables adapted to
liglit soils. There is a small amount of guano mixed with it ; and with cul-
tivation it would doubtless become richer by tho addition of decomposed
vegetable matter.

The vegetation of the island consists entirely of shrubs, herbs, and coarse
grasses ; none of tho shrubs are over 3 to 5 feet high. Of these, and tho
herbs, tho principal families are tho leguminosiu, loboliacas portulacca, and
convohiilacea. Some seem to bo now species of tho dilferent genera of tlio
above families.

On both islands several wells have been dug and water found at depths
of from 4 to 7 feet. I have tested the water taken from these as far as
tho materials which I have will admit. Who-> first collected, the specimens
were so full of sand and organic impurities in state of suspension, that it
was necessary to filter them. After filtration, tested by different ro-agonts,
they were found to be hard, free from organic impurities in solution, to con-
tain carbonic acid, carbonate of lime, and a por-centage of cliloridos. Tlui
Cjuantitive analysis of these constituents I have been unable to make for want
of proper materials, but have preserved specimens for further experiments.
It becomes better adapted to drinking after standing some timo. Capt.
Burdett, of the Pacific Naval Steam-ship Company, is reported to havo
found fresh water; but so far, he has chiefly used it for washing, auvl
the specimen sent off to me gave the same results, when tested, as the otheis.
The water seems to become purer in proportion to the depth ; and there is
every evidence that wells, properly sunk to a good depth, would afford a good
supply of potable water.

Immense numbers of sea birds are constantly hovering over and alighting
upon these islands. The bushes and surface of the ground are thickly
covered with their nests ; while the young birds, unable to fly, arc; so nu-
merous as to make it difficiilt to walk any distance without trampling upon
them. The principal varieties are gulls, fern, gannet, men-of-war, and tro-
pic birds. From such vast number there should be a largo amount of guano
deposited ; but, except in the five acres I have spolxcn of, its accunudation is
small, owing to tho looseness or porousness of the soil allowing it to bo
washed away or filtered through it.

The lagoon is full of fish, seal, and turtle. The seal is the plioca vitulina
or common hair seal, and is not of miu'h commercial importance. The fisJi
belong principally to the mullet, peril, and mackerel I'amilies ; many of them
■ii'c of most briiliauL colouis, and ?«'cni to be species uf the genus eory-
phcua ^dolphins). Large ijuantities of tin- hol.iUiiuiuu. IkiIk' dt nirr, exist

^^^J ' ' . ' a ' . ' jj jumu te*.

874

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. '2tf N.

on the bottom of the sou, both inside and outside the reef, uud can be
gathered without any difliculty.

During the sovontuen days that this vessel remained at the islands, t}it>
lowest point which the tlierniomoter reached was 72'', while the highest wa»
«'.t°. The barometer varied from 2!».22 to 30.2).

There appears to bo enough true soil, of sufficient depth to raise a good
many vegetables upon it at present, and with but little trouble the extent of
this orea might be increased.

The water in some of the wells now dug might be used in an emergency,
and doubtless by sinking projierly constructed wells to a sufficient depth,
perfectly potable water may be found. Owing to the nature of the soil,
these may be made with but little trouble, and at a very small expense.

KRUSENSTERN ROCK was discovered by Lisiansky, October 23, 180.5.
The bank around it appeared to stretch North and South about 2 miles, and
the sea only broke on it in one place. Lat. 22° 15' N., long. 176' 37' W.
It is probably the same as Sounders Island and Pijhtaart Island, laid down 1 6
miles to the N.W. of it.

Patrocinio, or Byers Island, was discovered in 1799 by Captain Don M.
Zipiani, commanding the Spanish vessel Senhora del Pilar. He states its ex-
tent to be 3 miles from N.N.E. to S.S.W., and is in lat. 28° 9' N., long.
1 76° 48' E. ; but the U.S. surveying vessel Peacock passed near this spot with-
out seeing it. This renders it more probable that it is identical with
Byers Island of Captain Morrell, of guano celebrity. This he places in
lat. 28° '.VI N., long. 177° 4' E., but this position cannot be depended on.

Patrocinio, or Byers' Island, according to Morrell, July, 1825, is moder-
ately elevated, and has some bushes and spots of vegetation. It is about 4
miles in circumference, and has good anchorage on the W.S.AV^. side, with
15 fathoms water, sand and coral bottom. There are no dangers around this
i!*land except on the S.E. side, where there is a coral reef running to the
tiou'.hward about 2 miles. Sea-birds, soa-elephuuts, and green turtles resort
to it, and plenty of fine fish nuiy be caught ou its shores with hook and line.
Fresh water may bo had litre from the S.W. side of the island, which is of
volcanic origin. But as snid above, the positions and even the exislance of
the islands, are very ([uestioniiblt'.*

* AforreW /«/(/nrf» another 80 iiitiiRil l)y Krusensteni from its discoverer, Iiy whom it is
placed in lat. 29° 67' N., long. 171° ;n E. U is siiid to be h small, low island, neiirly level
with the water, 1 milpsin circumfoiiiicf ; it was eovcrwl with sej»-fowl, ami its shores wi'n^
lined with Boa-elephanU ; green I ui ties were in abunUanie (Juh, ISL'o). .-Vppjircntly of
volcanic origin

On the W'A sidr of the island their is a ucf which nini^ ufl about 16 miK> . while that

kUtl can be

slands, tilt*
lighest wa*

ise a goorl

le extent oi"

BJiiergency,
iuut depth,
if tlie soil,
pense.

t23, 1805,
uiilen, and
76' 37' W.
id duwn 16

lin Don M.
ates its ex-

N., long.
I spot with-
ntical with
I places in
ied on.

is moder-
) is about 4

side, with
around this
>ing to the
rtles resort
k and line,
vhiih is of
distance of

■ whom it is
, iicurly level
s »hori's Wen
ippiiicntly ot

while that

•'

(^UESru, ETC.

ST,')

SiXTY-Fouu Fathoms ou Mellihh Bank.— A bank lias beon several tinu>»
announced hereabout. The IJrst in lat. 36° 25' N., long. 179° 30' E., from a
notice in the China Mail. It is placed a degree further South, from a re-
port in tho Alta California, and an American chart places it a degree still
more South. Mellhh Bank is said to be in lat. 31" 25' N., long. 178 47' E.
These possibly refer to tho same, if it exists. At all events it will be de-
sirable to know whether there are soundings here. Until the negative i»
determined, it may be retained, as not being dangerous.

Crespo, or Rica de Plata, is said to have been discovered by Capt. Crespo,
in the Spanish galleon is7 AV// Carlos, October 15, 1801, and seeing it 10
miles off, says it is not low, and that it is in lat. 32M6' N., long. 170^ 10' E.
It is also placed by whaler report in 33° 56' N., 109° 15' E. Against this it
may be stated that it was neither seen nor heard of by Du Petit Thouars,
who passed near it.

Admiral Krusensteru says, that as the Japanese believe in tho existence
of an island of silver, and one of gold, it is probable that Spaniards have
applied these attractive names during their search for the precious metals in
the South Seas. The navigator would make a loss of time in seeking tlie
fabulous isles of Rica de Oro and Kica de Plata, the latter term sometimes
being applied to this island*

ou tho S.E. extends about 30 miles in the direction of S.S.E. Tl.esJ kiSh arc formed of
coral, and afford good anchorage on the S.W. side ; but on the East side the water is bold
close to the reef. Another doubtful Mand in the same latitude is placed in long. 176^ if
West, from whaler report.

* To the southward of this the following doubtful islands may be noticed : —

Btin-owi Island, lat. 22° 0' N., long. 168° 27' E., rtsts upon a single announcement in the

China Mail.
An island, in 23" 3' N., 162° 57' E., from whaler report.
Jkik's Island, 23° 45' N., 163° U' E., probably is the same as Keeker hlan^i in West

longitude.

Barkers Maud, 22° 21' K., 163^ o' E., is evidently meant for tho same.

An island, in lat. 31° 19' N., long. 160° 42' E., is from whaler report.

Sebastian Lope: or Lobos Mund, in lat. 25° 0' N., long. 168- 0' E.. or 154^ 0', ,s only
known from the old Spanish charts

m, Columnas or Colums Island (Spanish charts), in lat. 20° 0' N., long. 160' 0' or 162^ 0'
K., is not otherwise known. The latter position was crossed i.y Capt. Lutke.

A reef, in 26° 0' N., 160° 0' E., has not since been found.

Volca'n Island, on old authority, in lat. 22° 35' N., long. 160° 0' E.

La Mira or Laomira, in lat. 20° 25' N., Ion. 164° 16' E. ; Camira (the same name mis-spelt),
in lat. 21° 35' N., long. 160° 0' E., have been given on the authority of the Spanish chart of
1743, but cannot now be rfcognized.

De^-.erla Isla>ui, m lat. 20' 10' N., long. IHo" 20' E, : and another Verierta, in lat. 23' 25'
North, long. 160° 45' E., are unknown, but are ncai to Wakes Island, page 887.

Otrn, in 23" 10' N., lo7" 0' E., is not known.

...fefl

87fl

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOKTII OF LAT. 20" N.

In all tho space between this and the coasts of Japan and ForinoHa we
liave a great number of shoals and iwlarids marked on tho charts. As flio
oxistouco, or at least the positions, assigned to many or most of those appear
to bo very doubtful, there is considerable difficulty in determining on tlm
point. They would seem to have boon inserted on tho charts from the uncer-
tain reckoning or observation kept on board whaling vessels, or others of thiit
class, which, from tho very nature of their pursuits, cannot be entitled to
much confidence.

Very many of those supposed discoveries are evidently of the most worth-
less nature, and it would seem almost a waste of space even to onmierato
them. In the groat work of Admiral Krusoustern those guesses and mis-
tiikes aro most industriously collected, and their proper value assigned in
most instances. In the later work published by the U.S. Bureau of Navi-
gation, 2ud edition, 18G(), similar reports have been incorporated with tho
older notices, and we have followed in many instances that work. It will bo
in the memory of most sailors how the chart of the North Atlantic was dis-
figured with "vigias" and supposed islands and shoals. The deep sea
sounding machine has disposed of nearly every one of those terrors to tho
navigator. It wore much to bo desired that the same process could bo ap-
plied to the great highways of the North-western Pacific. It is believed that
in the ensuing lists only those deserving of any credence are preserved in tho
text. Those which are manifestly spurious are given as foot-notes.

MaxouB Island has boon shown as a doubtful island, in lat. 24° 25' N.,
hmg. 153" 45' E., but several other announcements of islands are found here-
about. Islands, from whaler report, in 24" 0' N., long. 153° 4U' E. Another
island in 24° 5' N., 154° 10' E. It was seen by Captain Kilton, in the David
Iloadley, in May, 1868. He describes it as a low level sniidy island, covered
with trees and bushes, about 2 or 3 miles long East and West. No breakers
were visible, extending any great distance, from either end ; its width was
not ascertained. The position of the West end, by a set of sights, was
24° 24' N., 153' 58' E., or 20 miles northward of Weeks Island, and diflFers
from it in not having any knoll in the centre. We may therefore infer that
they are distinct islands.

Weeks Island, originally a whaler report, was first properly described by
Captain Gelett, in the Morning Star, tho Hawaiian mission sliip. It was seen
on December 17th, 18(54. It is about 5 milos long, densely covered witli
trees and shrubbery, with a white sandy beach and a knoll near tho centre,
rising about 200 feet above the sea. There were no signs of inhabitants on
it. A reef extends to the North of tho island. Iho position of this fortilo
island is important and reliable. It lies directly in tho track of wluilers
bound liom the Curoliuoh tu t!n' Sea ol Okliutsk. It - ight be considered

MAESHALL ISLANDS, ETC.

877

that it is tho samo as Miimis Island, but tlio doscriptions do not coincide,
raptuin Oolott's position, which must bn taken, is bit. 24° 4' N., and long.
154" 2' E.*

MABSHALL ISLANDS {L»s Jordlncs I-'). -Two small islands wcro dis-
covorod. in 1788, by Captain Marshall, of tiio ship Scarbornufili, whoso namo
is given to tho archipola^ro to tlio (>!istward. Tlioy havo boon thought to bo
tho same nn Loh Jlmws J,irdi)irs of Alvaro do Saavodra, in lf)2!). Anothov
group, called Los Jardinos, was also discovorod by Villalobos in l.")l.1, but
tho situation of both of those must be far away from this part, if oven they
could bo identified. Perhaps it would bo better to nnnin thorn tho Sraih')-
rough Nmuh. They are placed in lat. 2V 40', long. 161" 35' E. I5y nnothev
report they are in lat. 20'= 50' N., long. 151° 40' E.

Margaret Islands {Mahhrifiox), a group of throo islands, discovered, in
1773, by Captain Mageo, in lat. 27° 20', long. 145" 45'. They have been
considered to be the Malahrigon (bad shelter) of Bernard do Torres, in 1543.
but there is no possibility of deciding on the point, but it is possible that
they were tho Volcano Islands.f

Grampus Islands were said to have been discovered by Captain Meares,
April 4, 1788. They consist of two islands close together, and a third to tho
S.W. of them. The position of them is not stated by Meares, but Krusonstern
deduces it from his track as lat. 25° 40', long. 140° 40' E. Tiio position thus

• Tho following aro doubtful : —

Wakes Island, in lat. 31' 14' N., long. 156" 0' E., a whaler's notice ; and a reef, in 31" 18'
N., 153» 20' E. An island, in 3^ 0' N., 147° 16' E.

Several others, which need not be onumoratcd, may be included in tho foregoing. It may
be observed that hereabout tho strong currents may havo caused very bad reckoning, and
it IS possible that they may refer to tho reefs and islets far to the West, lying South
of Jedo Gulf. Soo page G26.

Congress Island, in lat. 23" 30' N. (on tho tropic), long. 148' 0' E., from whaler's

rnwrt. , „

Islands, from whaler report, in 25= 10' N., 153° 35' E. A reef, in 25= 28' N., 152" 40 E.

An island, from whaler report, 26= 6' N., 154° 30' E.

A reef announced in the China Mail in lat. 31° 30' N., long. 154° 0' E. Ganges Reef, in
30° 47' N., long. 154° 20' E., and three doubtful shoals in 31* 30' N., 153° 0' E. : 31° 18' N.,
154° 0' E., are most probably repetitions of tht same report.

A reef, in lat. 20° 42' N., long. 155= 0' E. ; and another in 20° 30' N., 163= 10' E., may re-
fer to the same. Nothing more is known.

A reef, in lat. 20» 30' N., long. 162° 60', on the charts, has been several times repeated,
and once as a sandy bank, once also in East longitude, which is probably erroneous.

t Mayaret Islands, a whaler report, in 27° 30' N., 145= 40' E., aro doubtless intended for
Slargaret Isb.nds, but it adds nothing to their authenticity.

878

ISLANDS AND STTOALH NORTH OF LAT. 20^ N.

nnsumed is open to every doubt. But some whalor reports place a group of
islands iu lat. 25^ 6' N., long. 14.V' 44' K., or 14:J^ 44' E.

There are so many reports as to the existence of one or more groups here-
about, although some of them aro manifestly erroneous, that it must be be-
lieved that there is reason for tho as.sertions. There are no means of fully
deciding about tlunn.*'°

THE ARZOBISPO OR HONIN ISLANDS.

The Benin Islands, are the next to the northward. At the time of the
opening of Japan to commerce they were made the subject of some remark
as to whom they belonpf, and therefore a few words respecting this point may
not be irrelevant. There can be but little doubt now that they are the Buue
Sima or Benin Sima, described by Mr. Klaproth and Abel Remusat, in
1817, as being discovered by the Japanese, in 1675.

Krusenstern also states that they correspond well with the Ylas del Ar/o-
bispo of a work published in Manila many years previously. By right of dis-
covery, therefore they belong first to Japan, and in the second place, pro-
bably, to Spain ; the third visitor has been the subject of dispute.

Captain Coffin, of the Transit, of Bristol, in the employ of Messrs. Fisher,
Kidd, and Fisher, discovered them September 12th, 1824 (not in 1825, as has
been stated in this controversy). His nationality and flag have been dis-
puted. He was well known to Mr. Arrowsmith, to whom he communicated
his discovery, and other English geographers, who always considered that he
was an Englishman.

Commodore Perry, in his correspondence and report to his government,
and in his paper, read before the New York Geographical Society, speaks
quite dubiously on this pdint. In the latter part of his work he says that
lie is an American, but does not allude to the account given by Mr. Reynolds,
the projector (unacknowledged) of the United States' Pacific Exploring
Expedition.

Captain Coflin saw the South group in 1824, as stated above, gfiving the
name of Fisher Island to the largest, and Kidd Island to the westernmost ;

• FoKFANA, an island said by Oalvaom to have been discovereil by the ship San Juan, in
164.3. There cannot bo any doubt of its exisletico, though the position uiay be open to
question. It is said to be 30 leagues E. j N. of the Volcano Islands. This would give it
lat. 25° 34', long. 143° 0', but it has not boon found here.

Tree Island, lat. 26" 2' N., long. 145° 50' E., is called a group of islands, by whaler repoi t,
nearly in thin posilion, and Three Islands by another and similar report, and again as a
grnup of islands, a degree furtlicr westward, or long, 143™ 44'.

THE AIiZi)niSl>() OH HONIN ISLANDS.

H7\t

trt two Others ho nppliod tho names of South Ishind and V'uroon Island, and
trt the harbour ho usod h« gave his own unuie. (''<)mmo(h)re Perry, U.S.N.,
in 1854, doing what lie so soverely dnprocntds in otlmrs, hiiRsuprModfd some
<tf thoflfl nameH, giving his own nanio to South Inland, Plymouth to Kidd
Island, and Newport to ("offin harbour. It may bo stated that anion^' otlit-r
differences, Captain CofHn places tho islands 70 miles to tho eastward. In
th« following year (IS'i.')) (-uptain Ooflin discovered the central group, and
refreshed in Port Lloyd. Kater Islaiul, " a lump of an island" as he calls
it, was also discovered at tho samo time. It was taken possession of for
England by Captain (afterwards Admiral) Heochoy, who surveyed the group
in 1827. Thoy wore afterwards visited by Captain (now Admiral) Quin, in
H.M.S. ItnUifih, who stayed horo 10 days in August 1«;!7. Thoy havo since
been visited by several men-of-war, in II. M.S. Lam,-, in I8;J8, Captain (now
Admiral) CoUinaon, in H.M.S. thiterpriM, in 18JI, an<l tho U.S. Expedition
in 1854.

It was colonised in 18;50 under tho direction of ?.Ir. Charlton, our consul
at the Sandwich Islands. Tho white settlers landed hero June 2()th, 1830,
under Matteo Mazzaro, by birth a Genoese, and Millichamp, an Englishman.*
With them were two Americana and one Dane, besides some natives of Oahu.
Millichamp returned to England, and Mazzaro, it is said, is dead, so that at
present, of the original aettlors, the two Americans and two Pacific Islanders
are all that remain. The population at the period of Captain Collinson'a
visit, amounted to 17 men, 11 women, 2 girls, and 18 runaway sailors,
natives of Oahu; '26 children had been born (21 boys, 5 girls", one half of
whom had died.

We cannot enter here into any speculation ns to the sovereignty of these
islands. It ia manifest that tho Japanese first discovered them, and of
Europeans, the Spaniards have the primary claim. The scandalous outrages
recorded by Captain Collinson t) havo been inflicted on tho helpless so;tlers
in 1849 and 1850, by the crews of some American vessels, robbing and
destroying the property of the white men, and stealing their wives, aroused
the strongest indignation.

The Japan Expedition has determined the geological character of tho
group to be volcanic ; trappean rocks are the basis of the islands. Streams
of lava yet are traceable, and basaltic columns appear. Earthquakes occur
twice or thrice a year, and Port Lloyd, the principal harbour, appears to
have been the crater of an ancient volcano, its entrance being a fissure in tho
cone. The scenery of the island ia romantic and beautiful.

• Mazzaro and Millichamp'a nunics apprur in anotli' r part of tho world. They wwo
wrpcked, with Goodridge on the Croze I, Islands, in the Indian Ocean, in Maich, 1821, and
figure in Goodridge's " Robinson C'rusoe" account of their solitary residence there.

RH.) ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOKTII OF LAT. 20^ N,

Ah hns boon stato.l al.ovc, tl.oy wore survoyod l,y Captain Hoochoy in 1827,
l.utthosoutliern gn.ui. wa« inoro paitirularly uxanuncl by L.out. C-. 1.
IJalch, II.8.N., in the ri;imou(h, iu 18.53. From those accounts wo R.ve the

followinj? : — . n • i i

The PARRY GROUP is tl.o n.-rtlionuiioHt <lii«tor, consiHts of nmall island-*
„„a noint.Hl nukH, and has n.udi brokon Kroun.l about it, Mhich rondnrH
,„,„i.,n n.H.osH,.rv in ann-oachin,, it. AorordinK to tho survey it is about ..
miUs in k.nt,Hli N.W. .m.l S.l-:., and its North o.xtr.Muity is in hit. 'IV 41 ::.."

North, long. Wl" T Kut^t. , . „ •,

Kater Island, North Hock in lat. 27" 31' N., long. 14'2" 12 , is 8 m.los
Bouthward of tho Tarry group. It is a small rocky island, with a conspicuous

islot, the Earn, on its S.W. side. . , , , „,, ,

The BEECHEY GROUP is tho principal of tho Bonin Islands. Thoy havo
been thus named ..f the English surveyor. Ho thus describes it :-

The middlo cluster consists of throe islands, of which Peel Mand, 4 J miles
in length, is the largest. This group is H miles in length, and is divided
by two channels so narrow that they can only be seen when abreast of them.
Neither of them are navigable for shipping ; the northern on account of rocks
which render it impassable even by boats, and the other on account of rapid
tides and eddies, which, as there is no anchoring ground, would most likely
drift a ship on tho rocks. Tho northern island I named Htapleton, and tho
centre Buvkland, in compliment to the professor of geology at Oxford. At
tho S W angle of Buckland Island there is a sandy bay, in which ships will
find good anchorage, but they must be careful in bringing up to avoid being
carried out of soundings by tho current. It is named Walker Bay, after (the
late) Mr. Walker, of the Hydrographical Office. The southern cluster is
evidently that in which the whale-ship, commanded by Mr. Coffin, anchored
in IS-'S who was the first to communicate its position to this country, and
xvho bestowed his name upon tho port, as has been before mentioned.
As the cluster was, however, left without any distinguishing appellation,
I named it after Francis Bailey, Esq., late President of tho Astronomical

Society. ,

It was visited by the U.S. Japan Expedition, m June, 1853, and the nar-
rative of Dr Hawks gives us the best account of the islands. Speaking of
theBeechey group he says : -The islands of Bonin are high, bold, and
rocky and evidently of volcanic formation. Thoy aro green with verdure
and a'fuUgrowthof tropical vegetation, which crowds up the acclivities of
the hills from the very borders of the shore, which is, here and the/e, edged
with coral reefs. The headlands and detached rocks have been thrown by
former convulsions of nature into various grotesque forms, which assume to
tho eye the shape of castle and tower, and strange animals, of monstrous
size and hideous form. Numerous canal-like passages were observed open-
ing in tho sides of the rocky cliffs, which had almost the appearance of being

r N.

eoclioy in 18'27,
r Liout. a. IS.
its wo give tht)

)fHnmll iHliuid-*

M-hicli roiuliM-M

y it iH nlxmt !•

hit. 27-' 4 r ;;.•)"

12', is 8 miles
th aconapicuous

ids. Thoy have
8 it : —

Inland, 4 J miU'S
I, and is divided
ibreast of theui.
account of rocks
account of rapid
juld meet likely
apleton, and the
at Oxford. At
which ships will
p to avoid being
ir Bay, after (the
iithern cluster is
Coffin, anchored
his country, and
jforo mentioned,
ling appellation,
the Astronomical

!53, and the nar-

ds. Speaking of

high, bold, and

36n with verdure

the acclivities of

and tbe/e, edged

been thrown by

, whicli aasume to

lis, of monstrouH

re observed opon-

ipearance of being

SS?"i?5^?35B1«*i'''^-

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CIHM/ICMH
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microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductlons historiques

■^

TEEL ISLAND.

881

hewn out with the chisel, but which were evidently formed in the course of
volcanic changes, when the rook flowed with liquid lava, and found issue in
these channels, which the torrents that came down the sides of the mountain
in the rainy season toward the sea have worn smooth by constant attrition.
Some of these dykes, or canal-like passngos, loss afToctod by time and the
washing of the water, still retain their irregular formation, which has so
much the appearance of steps that the observer, as he looks upon thorn,
might fancy they had been cut by the hand of man in the solid rock, for the
purpose of climbing the mountain. On tlio southern Head, as it is called,
within the harbour of Port Lloyd, there is a very curious natural cave or
timnol, which passes through the basaltic rock, from the southern Head to
the beach on the other side. The entrance has a width of about 13 feet, and
a height of 30 feet, but tho roof within soon rises to 40 or oO feet, where it
lias so much the appearance of artificial structure, that it may bo likened to
a builder's arch, in which oven the keystone is obsorvablt>. There is suflicicnt
water for a boat to pass from one end to the other. There are several otlu!r
caves or tunnels, one of which is at least 50 yards in length, and passes
througli a headland bounding the harbour. This is constantly traversed by
the canoes of the inhabitants.

The geological formation of tho island is trappean, with its various con-
figurations and mineralogical peculiarities ; columnar basalt appears, and
hornblende and chalcedony are found. There are all the indications of past
volcanic action, and the oldest resident of Peel Island stated that two or
three tremblings of the earth, giving evidence of a liability to oarthriuake,
are experienced annually even now.

Peel Island is the principal of the cluster, and on it are two bays, ono
to the S.E., which is dear and deep, except towards tho liead, where an-
chorage may bo had ; but of course it is open to tho prevailing winds. Its
head runs nearly up to that of Tort Lloyd, which is on tho N.W. side of
tlie island, and facing the West,

Tlie island is 4?r miles long, and tolerably higli— the hills rising in some
places by gentle slopes, in others abruptly by steep ascents ; the elevation of
the paj}s near the North end is respectively 879 and 88G feet. Almost every
vnlley has a stream, and the mountni^ia are clothed with trees, among which
the arera oleracca and fan palms are conspicuous. The volcanic origin of the
island is clearly manifest from the existence of ancient craters, and basaltic
dykes passing through beds of sand, scoria, and cinders.

Off the S.W. end of Peel Island is Knorr Island, with several islets and
rocks in its vicinity, and northward of Knorr Island are the conspicuouB
Sail Hocks, 60 feet high ; 11 mile northward of Sail Eocl- is the entrance

to Port Lloyd.

The promontory stretching from the N.W. end of Peel Island and forming
the North and Wo«t sides of i'ort Lloyd, is 7oU feet high towards its ccutro,
Nvii/i Piuijiv. ^ ''

882

ISLANDS AND SITOAI.S NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.

and 594 feet towards its southern end. The seaward sliores are bohl and
perpendicular. Westward (southerly) of the hitter summit a reef extends
out to the distance of 1 § cables from the shore ; and rather more than a
cable's length to the northward of this, and nt tlie distance of 2 cables from
the shore, is an outlying rocky patch, havinf,' only 6 to 8 feet water on it,
with deep water all round. There is also a r< t-f of rocks off the N.W. point
of I'ocl I>^land.

Port Lloyd.— This harbour has its entrance conspicuously marked by a
bold high promontory (southern head 492 feet high) on the southern side,
and a tall quoin- shaped rock (square Eock, 200 foet high) on the northern
side. It is nearly surrounded by hills, and it would appear to have been at
one time the crater of an active volcano.

At the upper part of the port there is a small basin, formed by coral reefs,
kept opon by streams of water running into it, and which, in consequonco
of there being 1 fathoms water all over it, is named Ten-fathom IToJe. It ia
conveniently adapted for heaving a ship down, and on the whole a mo.'st
desirable place of resort for a whalo ship.

In most of tho small buys in the harbour there are coral reefs and
ledges.

Two cables south-eastward from Square Rock, and 3 cables southward of
the rocky head on the North side of the entrance, are two dangerous shoi'l
patches, steep-to, and awash with a smooth sea; they can be easily .seen from
aloft, however, oven when there is no swell on. There is also a coral rock
about a cable's length North from the northern point of Southern Head, on
which are 8 feet water, and there are breakers 3 cables southward of the
South side of the same head. Southern Head is an island at high water.

Bircci ions for Jintering. — Having ascertained the situation of the port, steer
boldly in for tho Southern Head, taking care not to bring it to the northward
of N. 47^ E., true, or to fhut it in with two paps on the N.E. side of the
harbour, which will be seen nearly in one with it on this bearing. In this
position they are a safe leading mark. To tho southward of this line there
is broken ground.

If the wind be fi'om the southward, which is generally the case in the
summer time, round the South bluff at tho distance of 200 yards, close to a
sunken rock, which may be distinctly seen in clear weather. Keep fresh
waj' upon the ship, in order that she may shoot on end through the eddy
winds which baffle imder tho lee of the head ; •"'■ and to prevent her coming
round against the helm, which would be dangerous. The winds will at first
break the ship off, but she will i^resently come up again ; if she does not,
be ready to go about, as you will bo close upon the reefs to the northward,

Koci) the top-g!illanl ulewliiics in hand.

= N.

are bold anil
a reef extomls
• more than a

2 cables from
t water on it,

10 N.W. point

marked bj' a
sov.thern side,

11 tho northern
> have boon at

by coral reefs,
1 conseqiionco
m Hole. It is
whole a most

iral reefs and

southward of
ngcroua sho-.'l
isilj seen from
o a coral rock
leru Head, on
thward of the
high water,
the port, stot'r
the northward
L. side of the
ring. In this
;biB line there

le case in the
rds, close to a
. Keep fresh
ugh the eddy
lut her coming
da will at first
she does not,
he northward,

PORT LLOYD.

883

and put the helm down before the South end of tho island, off tho port
to the westward, comes on with the high square rock at tho North of the
entrance.

If she comes up, steer for a high Castle Rock at the E. end of tho harbour,
until a pointed rock on tho sandy neck to the eastward of the South head-
land comes in one with a high sugar-loaf shaped grassy hill to the south-
ward of it. After which you may bear away for the anchorage, taking care
not to open the sugar-loaf again to the westward of the pointed rock.* Tho
best anchorage. Ten-fathom Hole excepted, which it is necessary to warp
into, is at the northorn part of the harbour, where tho anchor is marked on
the Admiralty plan.

In bringing up, take care of a spit which extends off the South end of the
small island, near Ten-fathom Hole, and not to shoot so far over to the
western reef as to bring a rock at the outer foot of the South bluff -in one
with some black rocks, which will bo seen near you to the south-westward.
The depth of water will be from 18 to 20 fathoms, clay and sand. If the
wind be from the northward, beat between the line of the before-mentioned
Sugar-loaf and Pointed Rock westward, and a North and South line from
the Castle Eock to the eastward. This rock, on the western side, as well
as the bluff to the northward of it, may be shaved, if necessary. The
hand-leads are of very little use in beating in here, as tho general depth is
20 or 24 fathoms.

The best watering-placo is in Ten-fathom Holov It is necessary to bo
cautious of the sharks, which are very numerous in this harbour. It is
high water, full and change, at 6'' S'" ; springs rise 3 foot. The station on
the North side of Ten-fathom Hole is in lat. 21° 5' 35" N., long. 142° 11'
31' E.

Admiral Collinson, C.B., was here in 1851, and he says, that in making
the island from the southward, he experienced a difficulty in discovering the
remarkable quoin mentioned by Capt in Beeehey as the mark for the har-
bour on the South side, being under tho shadow of the high land at the back.
No difficulty, however, can be experienced by a stranger making the harbour
from the southward, as the bold bluff on the South side is sufficiently re-
markable, and the t^fo paps which Captain Beeehey gives as a leading mark
for clearing the rocks outside of the harbour will sufficiently denote its po-
sition. Besides that, among the detached rocks to the southward, are two
pinnacles, and over the remarkable quoin, on the North side as you enter, is
a triple peak. We shot in close under the bluff, but did not see the shoal off
it (it will not do, therefore, for vessels to trust to the eye to pick this danger
up), and then had baffling winds until we opened South Bay, when we edged

This rock is white on tlie top with birds' dung, and looks like an island.

3 L 2

»■

881 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOETH OF LAT. 20° N.

away to tho North, and came-to off the entrance to Ten-fathom IIolo in 25
fatlioms ; a bettor berth will be found a cable's length closer to the reef on
tho West side.

Fitton Bail, at tho S.E. angle of Peel Island, enclosed by perpendicular
rocks, is 1 \ mile deep, and nearly a mile wide at tho entrance. Thoro is
anchornpre at tho upper end in 17 fathoms, sand, at the distance of 2 cables
ft-om tho shore, secure from all winds except those from S.E. On tho North
side of tho entrance there is a largo and conspicuous islet, connected to tho
North bluff of the bay by a reef on which are several small rocks Outsido
the harbour there are also some sunken rocks to tho southward of tho en-
trance, on which account ships should not closo the land in that direction, so
as to shut in the two paps (at the N.E. angle of Port Lloyd) with the South
bluff of the bay ; with thest objects open there is no danj^er. At tho ujiper
end of the bay, on tho West side, there is a small and narrow cove, with 6
fathoms water at the entrance.

Fitton Bay is frequently visited by whalers for wood and water.
From a point on the East side of Peel Island a reef of rocks stretches to
the northward, terminating at a small islet in lat. 27° 5^ N. ; one-third of a
mile to the north-westward of the islet is a detached patch and rock. Tho
channel between Peel Island and Buckland Island, to the northward, is un-
safe. Nearly fronting this channel, one mile westward of the West ortrance,
is Goat Mand, in lat. 27° 7' N., about 300 feet high, in the vicinity of which
are several rocks and small islets ; one-third of a mile to the southward of
Goat Island there is also a small group of very low islets.

Buckland Island, to tho North of Peel Island, and tho central one of
Pcocbey group, is 3 J miles long N.W. and S.E. At the S.W. angle of tho
island, closo to the opening of the channel between it and Peel Island, is a
small sandy bight named Walhr Bay, in which ships will find good anchor-
ago ; but tlioy must be careful in bringing up, to avoid being carried out of
soundings by the current. The islet on tho West side of this bay is con-
nected to the main by the reef. Westward of tJie West point of Bucklan '
Island, and fivo-eighlhsof a mile north-westward of the islet just mentioned,
is LMe Goal Mmid, whit'h is also connected to the main by a reef. Tlie
channel between Goat Island and Little Goat Island is over half a mile wide,
and safe by not borrowing too much towards either shore.

Stapleton Island, the northernmost of the Beechey group, is, like tho
others, of volcanic origin. It has a varied sui-face of plain, hill, and valley,
with large tracks of fertile lands. There is a small bay on the western side
with apparently deep water, and surrounded by rocks and mountains,
varying from 800 to 1,500 feet in height, which protect it from the S.E.
typhoons.

BAILST GROUP, the southernmost of the Benin Islands, was thus named

t° N.

im IIolo in 2r>
to the reof on

perpendicular

ice. There is

ICG of 2 cables

On the North

anected to the

)cks Outsido

ird of the on-

t direction, so

pith the South

At the upper

cove, with G

ter.

8 stretches to
ono-third of a
id rock. Tho
;hward, is un-
rest entrance,
inity of which
southward of

ontral one of
. angle of the
I Island, is a
good anchor-
;arriod out of
3 bay is con-

of Uucklaii '
8t mentioned,

a reef The
f a mile wide,

, is, like tho
I, and valley,
western side
I mountains,
rom the S.E.

s thus named

BAILEY GROUP— FISHEE ISLAND.

8S5

by Boechey. The respective islands of tho cluster wore named by tlioii-
discoverer, Capt. Coffin, as hereafter stated. " With tho proverbial modesty
and justice of . . . surveyors, Commodore Perry replaced the original
names by his own for tho southernmost, and of his officers to the othera."

Fisher Island was named by Coffin in 1823, after one of his employers.
It is called Ililhhorotigh Island by Commodore Perry. A survey was made
by Lieut. G. B. Balch, U.S.N., in 1853. He of course uses the new names
applied by the Surveyors. In taking his descriptions we have restored tho
original names, adding the recent ones in parentheses.

Fisher Island, the largest of tho Coffin group, is 7J miles in lengtli, by
about IJ in breadth, and 1,471 feet high. The greater portion of it is rocky
and hilly, and unsuited for agricultural purposes. That portion of it which
could be cultivated is a black loam, and produces sweet potatoes, yams, tare,
and Indian corn, bananas, pine-apples, water melons, and limes. Sweet
potatoes form the staple support of the few inhabitants of the i.sluud. Hump-
back whales resort to these islands from November till May, during which
time they are calving. Turtles are found in abundance in season, and aro
salted down by the inhabitants in lieu of beef.

Close to tho northernmost point of Fisher Island is Devil Rock, from
which a reef stretches nearly a mile to the north-westward. At the distance
of three-quarters of a mile south-westward of the rock, is the N.W. point
of tho island, off which is Sugar-loaf Roch, with dangerous rocks and roofs
stretching some distance seaward. On tho West side of the island, midway
between its extreme points, are two small indentations in the coast-line, off
■which are two small islets. Half a mile to the southward of tho soutliorn
indentation is Pyramid Rock, close to the shore ; nearly a mile south-west-
ward from the Pyramid is Painted Rock, three-quarters of a mile from the
coast, the intervening area being encumbered by rocks (one of which is
arched) and by reefs ; those form part of the northern boundary of t'oJIin
I/arbour (New-port), an open bay on the West side of Fisher Island, near
its South end.

Stretching to the south-westward from the south-west point of Fislier
Island is a continuous line of reefs and islets, terminating in a long but
narrow island. The outermost extreme of this island with its outlying reefs,
is 2 J miles from the S.W. point of i^'isher Island ; thenco a rocky patch
to tlie north-westward, in the direction towards Mid-channel Rock, which rock
is also surrounded by rocky patches ; half a milo to the northward of Mid-
channel rock is Kidd (Plymouth) Island, which is a mile long, N.N.E. and
S.S.W., and half a mile wide. Kidd Island fronts and partially shcltoia
New-port ; the channel between it and the main island (Fisher) on the North
is deep and If mile wide; that to the South, between Kidd Island and
Mid-channel Rock, is loss than half a mile in width, but safe (having 10
fathoms) by not borrowing too much towards the rock. Whether tho chau-

J
I

686

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OT LAT. 20^ N.

nol between Mid-channel Rock and the island to the south-eastward is ac-
cessible is uncertain, it appears by the chart to bo considerably encumbered
with rocky patches which narrow the passugo.

To the S.S.E. of Fislier Island, at the distance of 3 miles, is Kelli/ Island,
1 mile long East and West, and half a mile wide. To the north-eastward of
Kelly Island, at the distance of half a mile, is another small island, with a
reef off its East extremity. Several islets and a roof of rocks also stroteh
some distance northward from the N.W. point of Kelly Island to the centre
of the easternmost island, making the channel between the two impassable.
Off the West end of Kelly Island there is a small rock, and the depth is
25 fathoms.

West of Kell> island, at the distance of 2 miles, is South (Perry) Island
1 J mile long N.E. and S.W., and about half a mile wide. The channel be-
tween South Island and the island to the North is a milo wide ; the islets
{Needles) in the channel near the North side of South Island have rocky
patches around them ; there is also a rocky patch three-quarters of a mile
south-eastward from South Island, opposite two rocks near the shore.

Coffin Harbour. — With the exception of this and a small cove just to tho
northward of it, there is no place on the shores of any of the islands suitable
for a coal depot ; nor can either be recommended afi places suitable for
such a purpose. They are both open from S.W. to N.W., and the hold-
ing ground is not good, being sand and rocks. Vessels could, however,
always get to sea on tho approach of a gale, as there are two safe passages,
which are very plain.

In the centre of the harbour, there appears to be no bottom with 24
fathoms.

It is high watei in Coffin Harbour, at full and change, at 11'' 32% and
the rise of tide is 3^ feet.

VOLCANO ISLANDS.

This remarkable group of three islands lies to the southward of tho Benin
Islands, at from 9a to 150 miles distance, and forms a continuation of that
line of volcanic fires which show themselves at intervals from Kamtchatka
southward, through the eastern part of Japan, and the range of islets to tho
S.E. of Nipon, and then in the Benin Islands.

These three islands were discovered in 1543 by Bernardo de Torres, and
received their name from tho volcano on the central one. There can be no
doubt of their being the same as the Sulphur Inlands of Captain King, in
1779. They were also seen by Captain Krusenstern, in the Naditjeda, in
1805. On the Spanish charts the northern island is called San Alessandro ;
the centre, Sulphur hlund ; and the southern, San Auguslino. Espinosa suya

20" N.

L-eastward is ac-
bly encumbered

is Kelly Island,
orth-oastward of
1 island, with a
cks also stroteh
id to the centre
;wo impassablo.
id the depth is

\ (Perry) Island
'ho channel be-
mUe ; the islets
and have rocky
rters of a mile
le shore.
!Ove just to the
islands siiitablo
ces suitable for
> and the hold-
30uld, however,
safe passages,

bottom with 24

it 11" 32"', and

rd of the Benin
luation of that
m Kamtchatka
I of islets to the

do Torres, and
iere can be no
iptain King, in
e Nadiejeda, in
Srtw Alessandro ;
Espinosa says

VOLCANO TST-.\N1)S-!SU1AMHJ1{ ISLAND.

SS7

Ihat tho southornmost was soon in ISO I, by the SpuniHli corvotlo Lu C'oiiifjj-
fiou, and namod San JUimkio, a nauio by which, aicording tn him, it has
always boon distinguished by tlio SpaiiiHli iiavigiittus.

San Augustino (or Snn Dioninin), tho soiithornnioHt, Ih a singlo moinitaiu
of a 8«iunro form, flat at tho top, and 090 foot high. Admiral Krusenstcrn's
observations, and ho was near it for two days, place it in lat. '2i M',
long. lU'-' 20', wliicli is 7' 30' South of that given by Captain King; so
♦hat unless a fourth island lies in that latitude, a thing most inipvobablo, wo
must suppose tiiat tho error arose from the distance at which it was seen
in 177'.).

Sulphur Island is tho central ono. It is about r, miles bmg in a N.N.E.
and S.S.W. direction. Tho South point is a higli, barren bill, flattisb at tho
top, and when soon from tho W.S.W. presents lui evident volcanic crater ;
tho soil of which its surface is composed exhibited various colours, a consi-
derable part of which was conjectured to bo .sulplmr, botli from its appear-
ance and the .strong sulphuroous smell perceived as Mut'.j»oint was approached.
Some on l- ard tho Dincovcn/ thought they saw steam rising from tho top of
the hill. A low, narrow neck of land connects this hill with tho South ond
of the island, whidi spreads out into a circumference of ;J or 4 leagues, a!id
is of moderate height. The part near tho isthmus has some bushes on it,
iind has a green appearance, but that to tho N.l''. is very barren and lull of
largo detached rocks, many of which were oxcjodingly white. Very dan-
•-■erous breakers extend 2 J miles to tho East and 2 miles to tho West, oil' tlio
middle part of the island, on which the sea breaks witli great violence. The
position of Sulphur Island, according to Captain King, identical with that of
Admiral Krusenstern, is lat. 21^ 48', long. HI" 13'.

San 'Alessandro, or tho North island, is also a single mountain of
considerable height, like the southern ono. It is peaked, and of a conical
shape, lat. 25^ 14', long. 141" 11'.*

From those islands tho volcanic energies appear to diverge into several
directions to the S.S.E. towards the Mariana Islands, well known as a range
of volcanic summits, tho intervening space being marked with two or three
small reefs, whoso position, however, are open to some duubt.

It also appears to e.ontinue to tho S., towards tho I'olow Isles, for on Dec.
25, 1«48, l^Ir. Lindsay, of the schoonm- Aiitel id, discovered, an apparently vol-
canic island or rock, in lat. 19" 20' N., long. 141^ IS.y E. To the S.W. there

• To the southward of tho Volcano Islands are tho following doubtful .vnnouncumouts:—
A rcif, from whaler roport, is twico iinnounccd as in mean lat. '22" G' N., long, lir 27' E,
rem, Parece.ot Time lsl,imh, \nUU 21" 20' N., long. Iir-IO'K, may ho Euphio^yne
vock.
rr/ldlu ItaJ', lilt. 21 0' N., lung. 1 V.V 0' E., is not known.

8>S8

IHLAND.S AND SIIOALS NORTH 0? LAT. 20- N.

iiro ovidcncoBof a aubmarino volcnnio action in tho rock " like n sail," noon liy
tho Lioiit. commanding tho /-.'uphrogpw, May 2, 1H51, and by tlio coniiiiandor
of tlio fJmia alno in 1851 ; hit. 21° 43', long. l;J8" 30' E. Beyond this wo
have tlio dangoroua Vola, Tareco Vela, or Douglas or IJinLops Kotk— two
shoals often announced as fresh discoveries, and a rock discovered by Mcaros
of fur-doaling notoriety. A singular phenomenon was experienced by Liout.
Jones, commanding tho U.S. sloop of war St. Mary's, in January, 1850,
when in lat. 20" 50' N., long. 131° -15' E., the wind suddenly died awa^ , tho
sea became troubled, tho air heated, and a sulphureous smell became very
apparent. This lasted about twouty-Iivo minutes, and thon tho wind camo
out as before.
These last are further alluded to presently.

DISAPPOINTMENT or Rosario Island lies to tho westward of tho I3o-
nin Islands. It was seen and named in tho Nautilus in 1801, and again on
September 25, 1813, in the Spanish corvette. La Fidclidad. It was also soon
by Captam M. Quin in H.M.S. Jtaleiijh, August 11, 1837, in lat. 27° 13' N.,
long. 140° 40' E. Commodore Perry, U.S. Japan Expedition, places it in
27° 15' N. and 140° 56' 30" E., or mean 27° 14' N., 140° 52' 15" E.

The island is about three-quarters of a mile long (N.E. by N. and S.W.
by 8.), and tho highest point, near the centre, 1 18 feet. Around it are
several detached rocks, two of which are a short distance ofif its extreme
points ; and a reef extends one-eighth of a mile to tho southward of tho
southernmost one. It is of volcanic formation, bold, broken, rugged, gene-
rally barren, and apparently unsusceptible of cultivation, but there are sonio
small patches of green about the top. The surf breaks heavily all around
it, and landing is impracticable. From a distance of 10 miles it appears as
two islands.

LINDA or EUPHROSYNE ROCK is a remarkable pinnacle seen by tho
Linda and tho Haphrospie in 1851. It was on each occasion said to look
like a ship under sail. Tho moan lat. is 21° 43^' N., long. 140° 50' E.

Meares Reff is said to lie in lat. 21° 0' N., long. 136° 45' E.

DOUGLAS REEF, or Parece Vela. -Douglas Eeef was discovered on
September the 15th, 1789, by Captain Douglas, and is 5 miles in extent
in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, in lat. 20° 37' N., long. 130° 10'. Tlieso
rocks, and those seen by Captain Bishop in tho Nautilus, in 179G, in lat.
20° 15', long. 136° 54', are probably the same as those named Pureco Vela
and Vela, by the older Spanish navigators. The rocks seen by the Nautilus,
like all bare rocks, appeared like a vessel under sail, and thus might have
been called Vela (a sail), or Parece Vela (a sail in sight !). On Anson's chart
thobo hold the sumo relative position aa the Douglas and Nautilus Reefs, and

DOUGLAS IIKKK.

HSO

sail," seen liy
10 coniiimudor
yoiid this wo
)s lioik — two
■0(1 by Mcarus
ced by Liout.
iiiuary, 18.10,
ed awa^ , tlio
became very
10 wind camo

d of tho I3(j-
tnd again on
wna also soon
t. 27° 13' N.,
places it in
E.

^. and S.W.
round it aro
' its oxtrcnio
iM'ard of tlio
iggt>d, gono-
ero are sonio
y all around
t appears as

seen by tho
said to look
50' E.

iscovored on
38 in extent
10'. These
17'JG, inlat.
I'ureco A''tln
he JVaud'lm,
might have
neon's chart
K Reefs, and

therefore the name of raveeo Vela lias \tftn added to the diseuvery of Capl.
DoughiH, and Vela to that of Capt. liishop.

An American discovery lias been announced as lying half a degree to thti
North of DoiighiH Rei.'f; l)ut its true character and position have been well
aHcertained. Capt. H. Sproiile, of tho Maria, examined it in his boat, March
18, 1817. Ho says; — 1 found it to (u)nnist of a narrow perpendicular wall
of coral, enchwing an oblong lagoon of deep water. I rowed along its wholo
length, which I nhould say was 2 miles by three-quarters of a milo wido at
ont!-lhird from the eastern point. Hharp heads of pointed rock appeared
frcvpumtly througli the surf; and one isolated rock of about 12 foot high
and 15 foot broad rose from the smooth water of tho lagotm, near its western
extreme, witli the rock bearing E.N.E. I put the boat through tho narrow
channel in the reef of not more than 3 foot ; — this was tho only oi)oning I
saw, and liad it not been very still undor tho leo, this would never liavo
shown. High breakers wore rolling over tho northern and north-oastern
parts. When tlio boat was on the wal'. I had 3 ft. water ; by packing two
lengths, 17 fathoms; two lengths more, no bottom with a wholo lino. Tho
South side is nearly straight, in an E. by S. J S. and W. by N. J N. direc-
tion. Tho rock when soon from the ship, 3 miles off, appeared exactly liko
a boat's tanned lug, Its position is lat. 20° 31' N., long. ISe^" 6' E. Nothing
can be more dangerous than this reef, from its extent; its neighbourhood
ought to be approaehi.Ml with tho greatest caution in dark and blowing
weather ; and in the months of November, December, January, and part of
February, it blows very hard, with thic) weather; but in fact, all the
passage from tho Sandwich islands to the coast of China requires tho
greatest caution. Innumerable sperm whalo wore playing about tho roof,
and the sea was perfectly alive with fish of many descriptions. Sharks wore
also very numerous.

It was also seen by Captain Steele, of the Sebastian Cabot, in 1 867, as a
reef extending in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction for 5 miles. There are
two isolated rocks near its western end ; the westernmost about '20 ft,, and
the other about 15 ft. above water, distant from each other about a quarter
of a mile. It is a very dangerous reef in stormy or cloudy weather, as it
can bo seen but a very .short distance ; tho position of tho wostornniost rock
is about lat. 20' 28' N., long. 136" 17' E.

Captain Ludwig Saabyo, of the Benjamin Howard, saw it and tho breakers
plainly from the deck, distant about 6 miles. Ho considered it very dan-
gerous. Lat. 20° 25' N., long. 136° 2' E., from good observations.

The probably correct position will therefore bo about lat. 20"" 30' N., hmg.
136° 10' E.*

Bishop, Nautilus, or Vela Rocks, were discovered by Captain Bishop,

• At about 80 miles \V. by N. from thi.s tbo subnuiiino volciiiic cvidunccs noticed on
page 888 wcru lult in ISjJ.

P~~!:T7?nr-i3ijt

800 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. I'o N.

in tlu) NautlhiH, in I7!)r.. Tli.'v .1.. ii..t upyear to havu Loon soon since.
Lilt. i'.V 20', long. l.'Jl l.y.

Kendrick Island wns ho(>ii l.y mi Eii|,'lish caiituiu ..f timt immo. It is
low, aiul al.out (i milcH lout?; lat. L' J^^ ;),V, l„riK. l.'JJ" 0' K. A small, low
iwiiind was hc.^u l.y tliu l.rig //,(««„/, Chrnrr, in 'Jl^ ;);}' loiiy. \.v>' ■{{)', al.oiit
midway botwocm tlm f;.n>Koiiig and Kasa iwland. It may rer.'r to uitliiT, (.r
i( iH poflsil.lo that thoro nuvy bo but ono island.

RASA ISLAND is a Hmall, low island, covorod with bushes, and sur-
n.undod with n.cks, 4 or 5 miles hmg in a N.W. and S.E. direetion. It was
called Rasa (flat) on board the Spanish frigato MageUmi, in 181.5, but it iiad
boon soon in 1807 by tho Froneh frigate La Vamumih;'. The hit. ^nvn
Avas 24° 26' 40", and tho monn of tho. two longitudos i;30^ 40' E. It lias
boon also soon by several others. Of those may bo noticed Mr. Symington,
in iho Ldiican/iira Witih, in 185r>, who jilaues it '24" 20' N., long, lai'^ 6.} E.
C^iptain Dixon, of the Josrph Sprutf, says tliat it is .'J.i miles long S.8.W and
N.N.E., gonorally low, tho highest part ab.ut 220 ft. high, coverod with
very short briishwo(.d, and having very deep water all along its -.vostern
Hide; lat. 24» 30' N., long, \'M^ II' 45' E. besides those acc(.rdant state-
]nents may be added tho report of Capt. Norville, of tho brig Argyle, who
says it is a milo long, with a reef pn.jeeting from its northern side nearly a
mile, and a rock to tho East neor tho shore, hit. 24'' 23' N., kng. l;jl" 0' JO.
Tho barque Aurora says it is 5 milos long North and South, lat. 24" 29' N.,
long. 131" 12' E. Tho mean of these positions may bo taken as 24° 27' N
long. 131" r 50'.

BORODINO ISLES wore discoyorcd by Lieutcnan', Tonafidin, in 1820.
Iloiilacos them in lat. 25'' 56', long. 131^ 15'.

They have boon surveyed by Commodoro I'orry, of tlie U.S. Japan Expe-
dition. They were made on tho 22nd of Juno, 1854, directly ahead, and
were found to bo two in number, situated 5 miles apert, and lying' in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. They appeared to bo of coral formation, but
of great antiquity, as trees of considerable size crowned tho uplands, tho
most elevated part of which may have been 40 ft. above the level of the
sea. The navigation in the immediate neighbourhood soemed free of dan-
ger, but no indentations were soon in the surrounding shore which might
afford safe anchoring places. No signs of people wore discovered, and it is
presumed that the islands are uninhabited. The position of the extremity
at tho South of the southern island was estimated to bo in Lit. 25' 47' and
long. 131° 19' E.* . '

• Tho fullowing will concliulo the list of (loubU'iil islundH.

Sonlh limvau hlo,„l, a whaler ropoil, in Lit. 27" -1' N., long. V6'r ,50' E., is iloubtloss in-
tended for liosiuio Island to the eastwiird.

11 soou ainco.

iiaino. It is
A Hiimll, low
'2' UV, alMiiit
to uitJiiT, or

OH, nnd Hiir-

ion. It was

i, but it liad

lilt, nn-cii

E. It liaa

8ymin{^fon,

l;5r 5.} E.

S.8.W and

overod with

its '.vostoi'ii

•rdnnt stiito-

Argyk, who

ido nearly a

. l.'Jl'^ 0' ]•:.

2-r 2!)' N.,

i 2r 'IT N.,

II, in 1820.

apnn Expo-
alioad, and

b'ii'g ill a
mation, but
il)lands, tho
lovol of the
reo of dan-
hich might
d, and it is
,0 extremity
!5^ 47', and

doubtless in-

( «'-'l )

ISL.\NI)S SOUTIl-WEHT OF JAPAN.

On page AOS wo Imvo given doscriptiona of tho south-wostorn coasts nl'
KiuHiu and of Capo C'liitliakoll'. Th(i iMlunds soutliward of it luivo Ihmii
partially o.xaminod by Eronch olUtertJ, and adaiited to tho Japunoso charta
nnd names.

TANEGA SIMA tho largest island to tho S.H. off this capo, is 20 miles
lung i but little is known of it. It is said to bo lovol and covered withtrooa.
It appears to extend from Int. 30' 22' to 30' 43', and from long. 130' rA' to
131' o' E. Tho northern part is low, with smooth, rounded, undulating hills.
Tiioro is tho outline of a good harbour on its western side.

YAKUNO SIMA, is U miles W.S.W. of Tanega. Ttshigho.4 peak. Mount
Jfulumi, is 5,848 ft. high, iulut. 30"^ 21' N., long. 130'2y'E., and shows doublo
from tlio eastward. Tlio island is about 12,1 mili-'s long Nortii and iSoutli,
but it has not been examined.

Yerabu Sima {Jul ic Ixf and) has an active volcano, 2,007 ft, above tho sea.
Its highest peak is in hit. 30' 27' N., hmg. 130' 1 1' E. Tho island is abort
miles long, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and its greatest L,\' -^dth 3 miles.

ISerijjhos or Omuru Hock is marked as underwater, i i hit. 30" 44' N., long.
130° 45' E.

Take 8ima,( J polios Tdand) is comparativrl low, ..nd about 2 miles iu
circ'iniierenco ; its centre is in hit. 30-^ 48' N., long. 130" ^4' E. A rocky
Bpu extends about a (quarter of a mile from the East p. int of Tako Sima.

Iwoga Sima ( ro/(V(Ho /s/((«(0 ia an active volcuiio ; its highest peak, 2,315
ft. above tho sea, is in lut. 30° 42' N., long. 130° 17 E. Some reefs e.-:t'"id
about threc-fiuarters of a mile from the eastern points of Iwoga Hirna.

Powhattan Reef.— This dangerous reef, in hit. 30' 41' N., long. 130' to'
East, was discovered by tho U.S. frigate Powhittan, in January, 18G0.
From tho centre rock, about 18 ft. above tho sea, the S.W. point of Iwoga
Sima boro N.W., tho East point N. i W., and tho East point of Take Sima
N.E. i N.

Rosa Islam!, a whaler report, in lut. 21" 25' N., long. 138" 60' E., in not known; it miiy
be an error for long. 130" oO' E., and so refer to Jiazu Island, which i8 probable.

Dolorex Island, lat. 23" 50' N., long. 134" 12' E., is not known.

A reef, in lat. 23" 20', long. 131" 15' E.

Akin Rcefov S/wal, ropoitod by Captain Akin, of tho ship Winthrop, to be a mile long
N.E. and S.W.,- with but few breakers on it in lino weather. Lat. 20° 37' N., long, ly^i"
2' E. It should bo obsiervod that several well-known ships huvo passed over its position.

A shoal, in 26" 5!>' N., 131° 30' E., was not found by Capt. Marsh, of tho ViscoiDit Sandon
iu 1851.

Abrc-uj(i, lat. 22' 0' N., long. 129' 15', from tho old Spanish chavl, has not been found.

Amlmlain hUind, 'lo 2o N., 131 ' 0' E,, may hu Dorodiuo Island.

892 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20" N.

Other rocks woro soon awash, or a few foot abovo water, stretching out
about throe-quartors of a railo from the centre rock.

Trio lioch are three distinct islets of about an equal height ; the centre
islet, 223 foet above the sea, is in lat. 30' 45' N., long. 130° 5' E.

KUaO SIMA or Sta. Clara rises to the height of 2,132 feet ; its centre is
in lat. 30° 50' N., long. 129° 55' E.*

The InginUl, Morrison, or Lame Rocks, eight in number, extend N.E. and
S.W. about 5i miles : ihe highest, 446 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 51' N.,
long. 129° 26' E., and visible in clear weather at 25 miles.

THE LINSCHOTEN ISLANDS.

A lino of volcanic islands extends 120 miles S.W. of Yakimo Simn. They
wore entirely omitted on modern charts, but they are clearly shown in the illus-
tration to tlio third book of the " Voyage ofte Schipvaort van Jan Huygon
van Linschoten" (of Eukhuysen), published at Amsterdam in 1595-6.
Several particulars of the adjacent islands are given in this work, but there
was some difficulty in applying them. In August, 1815, Sir Edw. 13elchor,
II.M.S. Samarang, first brought them to notice again. On August 13th, ho
landed on one of these terrm incognita, the same on the 14tli, and mot with a
disaster. The islands were (nearly) all named and placed on his charts.

Contro-Amiral Cecille examined them in the French corvette, La Saline,
and he gave them a second set of names, calling the range tho CWilk Archi-
pelago. The native names have been ascertained, and thus they possess three
distinct sets of designations, which, for distinction sake, we must repeat
here. The first the native, second the English, third the French.

Blake Eeef (Lapelin Eocks) consists of several distinct islets and rocks,
extending about 3 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction ; the highest islet, 90
ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 5' N., long. 130' 3' E.

Kutsino Sima (Jcrabout or Alcmone), is 2,116 ft. abovo the sea ; highest
part is in lat. 29'' 59' N., long. 129° 55' E.

A'ohebi Sima (For.,'ado Eock), 984 ft. abovo tho sea, is in lat. 29° 53' N
long. 129° 36' E. ''

Hebi Sima {Bundas or St. Xavier) rises to tho height of 1,820 ft. Tho
peak is in lat. 29° 55' N., long. 129' 32' E. There is a small islet off its
N.W. face.

• This small and lofty island was ono of tho marks used by tho " rortingalos " in sailing
from Macao to " Langasaquo or Nagasaki in oarly days. It is frequently mentioned by
Luischoten (anno, 159G), and marks arc given to diatinguL-h it from Muf.c-sim.. (As seto
Iruiaus), thu other landfall.

20° N.

r, stretcliing out

gilt ; the centre

)'E.

>ot ; its centre is

xtend N.E. nnd
alat. SO'Sl'N,,

no Simn. Thoy
)wnin tlioillus-
n Jan Huygon
am in 1595-G.
vork, but there
EJw. 13elchor,
ugust 13th, he
md met with a
his charts,
te, Za Sahitic,
3 Cecille Archi-
j jwssess three
9 must repeat
ich.

ets and rocks,
ighost islet, 90

3 sea ; liighest

t. 29" 53' N.,

,820 ft. The
ill islet off its

gules" in sailing
y mentioned liy
.c-sim.. (As Etto

THE LU-CnU OR LOO-CIIOO ISLANDS.

893

NASA SIMA {Pinnacle or Pacifique) is 3,287 ft. above the sea ; its peak
is in lat. 29° 53' N., long. 129" 50' E.

Fira Sima {Disaster or Victorieuse), lying W.N.W. of Suwa Sima, is 879
ft. high, and in lat. 29' 41' N., long. 129" 31' E.

SUWA SIMA {Volcano or Archimcdo), is au active volcano, 2,805 feet
high, in Int. 29" 38' N., long. 129° 42' E.

Akuisi Sima (-Sfl-wrtrrtn^r or Acoiicheki), 2,184 ft. above the sea, is in lat.
29° 27' N., long. 129" 35' E. ; a small islet lies off its N.W. face.

The SimagO {Cooper or Sabine group) are four small islets, the highest of
which, 738 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 29" 13' N., long. 129" 19' E. Tlie
easternmost islet bears from it about E. ^ N. 3 miles.

TOKARA SIMA {Fennel! or Toukara), 885 ft. abovo the sea, is in lat.
29° 8' N., long. 129° 11' E.

YOKO SIMA {Oi/le or Cleopratro), rising to the height of 1,623 ft. above
the sea, is an extinct volcano, the highest part of which is in lat. 28' 49' N.,
long. 128° 59' E. ; there is a small islet, Kaminone (Royalist), about a milo
northward of it.

THE LU-CHU OR LOO-CnOO ISLANDS.

A group of very irregularly formed islands succeeds the Linschoton group
to the southward. The principal islands were well known, but it may be
observed that Oho-sima (Harbour or Bungalow Island) has been generally
emitted from the charts, and this has led to much confusion.

Sandon Rocks were discovered by the ship Viscount Sandon, 8th December,
1850, on her passage from Singapore to Shanghai. The highest rock is
about 20 ft. above the sea, with two low detached rocks to the westward,
and a reef between them. At a quarter of a cable's length from their N.W.
side were 12 fathoms water, and at half a mile to the N.W. 15 to 22 fathoms
with overfalls over an uneven coral bottom. No other dangers were visible.
Their position is given as lat. 28° 44' N., long. 129° 38' E.

OHO SIMA, or ITarbour or Bungalow Island, is the largest of the chain of
islands lying between Great Lu-chu and Japan. It is about 30 miles in
length, N.E. and S.W,, is high, well cultivated, and, from the number of
villages seen along the coast, must contain a large population. There
are two peaks on its Southend, 1,674 and 1,420 feet respectively above

the sea.

This island was partially surveyed by the American squadron in 185G.
The ouUine of its coasts appears much broken, and deejily indented with
numerous bights, most of which are very bold. Wood and water are good
and plentiful; but refreshments scarce. The inhabitants are timid and

894 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.

hnrraless. The North end is high, and being connected with the main part
of the island by a narrow, low isthmus, it has the appearance, on somo
bearings, of being isolated. Foul ground appears to extend about 2J miles
N.E. by E. from the North end, and two rocks to rise from it, the northern
of which is about 80 feet high. North extreme of the island, lat. 28° 31'
40" N., long. 129° 40' 12' E. ; South extreme, lat. 28° 6' 30" N., long.
129° 22' E.

The South end of the island is separated from Kaiona Sima by a narrow
channel, in some places not more than half a mile wide. At its western
entrance is Vincemm Bay, a small bay formed at the North ond of Katona
Sima.

By three days' observations in Vinconnes Bay, it was high water, full and
change, at 1^ 30% and the rise and fall 5^ feet.

Kikai Sima, lying about 15 miles S.E. of the North end of Oho Sima,
is moderately high, about 7 miles in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W , and
inhabited. The summit (8G7 feet high), is in lat. 28° 18' N., long 129°
57y E.

Germantown Reef.— The U.S. ship Germantoivn, 23rd March, 1859, when
beating along the S.E. side of Oho Sima, struck on a coral reef said to lie
in lat. 28° 16' N., long. 129° 58' E. From the shoalest spot found, 6 feet,
tiie highest terrace on Kikai Sima bore N.E. i E. 6 or 7 miles. Tho
reef is about a mile long in a N.N.E, and S.S.W. direction, and half a
mile wide.

Another shoal spot was found lying North 2 miles from tho centre of this
reef, with apparently a clear passage between. Reefs wore also seen from
aloft, extending from 1 to 2 miles from tho S.W. and S.E. points of Kikai
Sima.

TOK SIMA of Siebold, or Crown Island of Broughton, in 1797, highest
or southern peak, lat. 27° 44' N., long. 128° 59' E. ; height, 2,461 feet.
This island is 14 miles long North and South, and 7 miles East and West.
Its northern peak is 2,034 feet above the sea. A village is built on its
N.W. face.

Iwo Sima, or Sulphur Island, in lat. 27° 61' N., long. 128° 14' E. (128°
19' E. by CoUinson), height 541 feet, is a volcanic mountain, still in
action.

Yeirabu Sima of Siebold, or Wuhdo of Basil Hall, South peak, lat. 27°

• In tho American chart Oennaiifown liecf is placed 2^ miles S. by W. ^ AV. from <lio
R.W. extreme of Kikai Sima, orin lat. 28» 14f N., long. 120" r)3' E. ; ami there ia anotlur
danger, named M(irsh Iter/, I J mile so\itliwaid of i(.

THE LU-CnU ISLANDS— OKINAWA SHEA.

80:')

main part
e, on somo
it 2^ miles
10 northern
lat. '28° 31'
" N., long.

T a narrow

its western

of Katona

er, full and

Oho Sima,
S.W. and
long. 129°

859, when
said to lie
nd, 6 feet,
iles. Tlio
and half a

itro of this

seen from

ts of Kikai

17, highest
2,461 feet,
and West,
•uilt on its

4'E. (128°
in, still in

k, lat. 27°

W. from llic
^rc is anotln'v

21' N., long. 128'^ 31' 34' E. ; height 889 ft. (lat. 27^ 14' N., long. 128° 33
by Collinson in 1815).

Yori Sima, or Julo of Basil Hall in 181G, centre, lat. 27° 2' N., long. 128°
25' 24" E.

The Lu-chu or Liu-kiu islands, to the N.E. of the Moiaco-sima group,
consist of one largo island, Okinawa Sima, surrounded by smaller ones.
Tlio charts are derived froro the Japanese chart, published by P. Von
Siobold, in 1852, and therefore must not bo implicitly depended on. Thoy
have been frequently visited and described, especially by Captain Basil
Hall, who gives a long account of tliom ; by Captain Beechoy (voyage of
the Blossom, vol. ii, chap, xvii.) ; Sir Edward Belcher, voyage of the Sama-
ranif, vol. ii.)

KERAMA ISLANDS.— To tho westward of tlie South end of Okinawa sima
are the Kerama islands, the Amakirrima of Basil ITall in 1816, and Kera
Sima of Siebold. The group consists of four islands, Zamami, Accar, or
Yakai of Siebold, Ghiruma and Twkaschi, of which all but the last are very
small.

Captain Mathison, of H.M.S. Mariner, in 1849, states, "that in the chart
of the Kerama islands there are six islands marked with apparently clenr
passages between them ; whereas, as well as could be judged, there must bo
a gi-eater number, and all the spaces between them appear filled will roofs
and breakers. There is a shoal lying between the East Kerama island and
the S.E. end of Okinawa sima, tho breakers on which wore clearly visiljlo.
Eeefa also extend eastward about 5 or 6 miles from tlie N.E. point of Kume
sima, the island lying to tho W.N.AV., on one of which the ship Elizabeth
and Henry was lost."

The small coral islands lying off Napha-kiang road are called Tzeo (Kei of
Siebold), and Eeef islands by Captain Basil Hall.

OKINAWA SIMA, or Great Lu-chu Island, is about 56 miles long N.E.
and S.W., preserves a tolerably uniform breadth of about 10 or 12 miles,
and is well inhabited. The North end is high and bold, with wood on the
top of the hills. The N.E. coast is also abrupt but quite barren, and tho
N.W. side rugged and bare. The S.E. side is low, with very little appear-
ances of cultivation. The South, S.W., and western coasts, particularly tho
two former, are of moderate height, and present a scene of great forlility
and high cultivation, ar d here the mass of tho population reside.

NAFHA-EIANG R' AD.— Napha, on tho S.W. side of Okinawa, is the
principal sea-port of tho island, and perhaps tho only one possessing the
privileges of a port of entry. The inner, or Juuk harbour, carries a depth
of 2 to 3 fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently, large to accommodate
with ease the iiftoon or twenty moderate sized junks which are usually found
moored in it. The outer harbour, or Nnpha-kiang road, is protected to the
eastward and soutliward by the main land, whilst in other directions it is

890

ISLANDS AND SHOALS NOETH OF LAT. 20' N.

surrounded by merely a chain of coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable
breakwater against a swell from the : orthward or westward, but afford,
of course, no shelter from the wind. The holding ground is so good,
however, that a well-found vessel could hero ride out almost any gale in
safety.

Ahhey Point, the South extremity of the road, may be known by its
ragged outline, and by a small wooded eminence, called Wood Hill, about 1 \
mile South of it. The main land here falls back and forms a bay, which is
sheltered by coral reefs extending northward from Abbey Toint ; they are
however, disconnected, and between them and the point there is a channel
Bufliciently deep for the largest ship.

Nearly in the centre of this channel, outside withal, there is a coral bank
named Blomm Reef, with a good passage on either side. The South channel,
between it and Abbey Point, should be adopted with southerly winds and
flood-tides, and the Oar Channel, between Blossom and Oar Eoefs, witli
the reverse. A reef extends from Abbey Point to the S.W., and also to the
northward. When off Abbey Point, Kumi Head, a rocky headland, will be
seen about 1^ miles North of the town ; and upon the ridge of high land
beyond it are three hummocks to the loft of a cluster of trees. In the dis-
tance, a little to the left of these, is Mount Onnodalce, in lat. 26° 27' N.
A remarkable rock, which from its form has been named Capstan Head,
will next appear ; and then to the northward of the town a rocky head,
wi..i a house upon its summit, called False Capstan Head. At the back of
Capstan Head is Sheudi Hill, upon which the xippor town, the capital of Lu-
chu, is built.

An abundance of water can always be obtained at tho fountains in Junk
Eiver, where there is excr llent landing for boats. There is a good spring
near the tombs at Kumi Lluff; but unless the water is quite smooth, tho
landing-place is impracticable.

A Hack spar buoy is moored on Blossom Eoef halfway between its eastern
and western extreme ; a red spar buoy on the point of reef W.N.W. of
Abbey Point ; and a xvhite spar buoy on the S.J]. extreme of Oar Eeef.
Flags of corresponding colours are attached to all these buoys, and they
afford good guides for the South and Oar Channels. There are two large
stakes on the reefs eastward and westward of the North channel, planted
there by the natives, this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to
tlie northward. The spar buoys may be displaced, or entirely removed by
the heave o" the sea, and should therefore not be relied on.

It is high water, full and change, in Napha-kiung Eoad, at C 30'", and
tlie rise is fi-ora 5 to 7i ft. ; but this was very irrugular during the JJlossom's
stay at this anchorage.

As may be readily understood, it is difficult to give intelligib'o directions
for this complicated harbour without tho chart.

,8 a tolerable

, but afford,

is 80 good,

any gale in

nown by its
Till, about 1 J
;)ay, which is
lit ; they are
is a channel

a coral bank

nth channel,

y winds and

Eeofa, with

i also to the

land, will be

)f high land

In the dia-

26° 27' N.

apslan Head,

rocky head,

i tho back of

ipitalof Lu-

ins in Junk
good spring
smooth, the

1 its eastern
W.N.W. of
f Oar Reef.
s, and they
e two large
lel, planted
8 trading to
removed by

G" 30'", and
he JJlossom's

diroctioua

NAPHA-KIANO ROAD.

897

There are three passages loading into Napha-kiang Road, named the
North, the Oar, and tho South Channel. To sail by tho South Channel, be-
tween Blossom and Abbey Reefs, having well opened Capstan Head, haul
towards Abbey Reef, and bring the right-hand hummock about half a point
eastward of Kumi Head ; tliis mark will lead through tho South Channel,
in about 7 fathoms, over the tail of Blossom Reef. A vessel may now round
Abbey Roof tolerably close, and steer for tlie ancliorage in 7 fathoms, about
half a mile N.N.W. of False Capstan Head. Care must be taken to avoid
the Ingersoll Patches, on which tliero is only a fatliom water. Should tho
wind veer to tho eastward in the South Channel, with the above mark on,
do not stand to the northward, unless tho outer cluster of trees near tho
extremity of Wood Hill is in lino with, or open westward of Table Hill, a
square rocky headland to tho southward of it. This mark clears also tlio
tongue of Oar Roof.

The best anchorage is in Barnpool, at the N.E. part of the road, in 7
fathoms, where a vessel may ride with great security. The outer anchorage
would be dangerous with strong westerly gales.

Tho following directions for the South Channel aro by Lieutenant S. Bent,
of the U.S. Japan American Expedition, 1853. IIo foimd two patches of
only 2 J and H fathoms water; the former named Lexington Reef, lying
W. i S., 11 mile from Abbey Point ; and tho latter of I3 fathom, W.S.W.
1* mile from the point : —

The clearest approach to Napha-kiang Road from the westward is by
passing northward of the Ker-ima Islands and sighting Agonhu Island,
which will be recognized by its wedge-shaped appearance ; from thenco
steer a S.E. course for the road, passing on eitlier side of the Reef Islands ;
being careful, however, not to approach them too near on tho western and
southern sides, as the reefs below water in these directions are said to bo
more extensive than is shown on the chart.

After clearing the Reef Islands, steer for Wood Hill on a S.S.E. bearing
until getting upon the line of bearing for tho South Channel. This will
load woU clear of Blossom Reef, yet not so far off but that tho white tojnb
and clump of trees or bushes southward of Kumi Head can be easily distin-
guished. An E. by N. J N. course now until Abbey Point is in one with
outer trees will clear S.W. rocik, when haul up for Kumi Head, and select
a berth about half a mile northward and westward of False Cupstan Head.
This channel, being quite straight, is better for a stranger entering the har-
bour than tho Oar Channel, which, though wider, has the disadvantage of
its being necessary lor a vessel to alter course some four or five points, just
when she is in the midst of reefs which aro nearly all covered.

If the wind bo to the north-eastward it will be advisable to beat through
tho Oar Channel, in preference to tho South Channel.
A good mark to run through this channel is to bring the centre of the
North Pacific. 8 K

.-i-m s & ^ Si^

^ ^3i ^ m i=: ^^sMi^'^^ ' s sm:!^.

R98

ISLANDS AND SnOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20" N.

island in Junk Harbour (known by tlio deep verdure of its vegetation) to
fill the gap between the forts at the entrance of that harbour, and steer a
S.E. i E. course, until Capstan Head boars East, when haul up E.N.E., and
anchor as before directed.

The N^orth Channel is much contracted by a range of detached rocks ex-
tending from the reef on the West side, and should not, under ordinary
circumstances, bo attempted by a stranger, as at high water the roofs aro
almost entirely covered.

Sailing from Napha during the N.E. monsoon, it will be better to pass
round the South end of Great Lu-chu, in order to avoid beating tiirough the
Montgomery group, of which there is no reliable survey ; they are said to
consist of five islands, surrounded by reefs. But with a southerly wind and
fine weather it will be to the advantage of a vessel bound to the Bonin
Islands to pass round the North end of Great Lu-chu, where she will feel
the influence of the current, which will assist her to the eastward.

Deep Bay — at the head of which is the observatory spot of the U.S. ship
Vandalia, 1854, in lat. 26° 35' 35" N., long. 127° 59' 42" E.— is formed on
the western side of Great Lu-chu, and although open to the West and 8.W.
affords good anchorage off the town of Naguh, about half a mile from its
liead ; for winds from these quarters rarely blow home, and if they do they
never raise a sea, as the latter is broken by the great depth of the bay.

Suoo or Setei Island, lying about a quarter of a mile from the N.W. coast
of Great Lu-chu, to the northward of Diep Bay, has excellent anchorage
between its eastern side and the coast, protected from all winds, and wood,
water, and fresh provisions can be easily procured.

Port Outing, or Melville, is on the N.W. part of Great Lu-chu, and its
entrance is between the eastern side of Kui or Ilerhert Island and the western
side of the reef fronting the peninsula, and which projects 5 or 6 miles to
the westward, having a small islet near its extremity. lye sima or Sugar-
loaf island, lying about 12 miles westward of the entrance, is a good guide
for it, the island being low and flat, with the exception of a sharp conical
peak rising 50 1 feet above the sea, at its eastern end. Good water can be
obtained at the village of Onting. In Port Onting it is high water, full and
change, at G"" 35"", and the rise is about 8 feet.

In entering, steer for the western shore of Ku'i Island until Hele Hock
is in line with Double-topped mountain (a distant double-topped hill, the
second highest of the range), bearing S.E. ^ S. Steer in on this mark,
until Chimney Eock bears S. J E. ; then for Chimney Rock until Rankin
point bears S.W. J W. ; then for that point until the port is entered, when
anchor, giving the vessel room to swing clear of the reef extending north-
ward of Rankin point, and she will be as snug as if lying in dock, with
good holding ground, completely land-locked, and sheltered almost entirely
from every wind.

^.-.^

^Mi

^ N.

vogotation) to
r, and stoer a
p E.N.E., and

hed rocks ex-

ndor ordinary

the roofs aro

better to pass
ig tiirough the
oy are said to
erly wind and
to the Bonin
3 she will feel
ard.

the U.S. ship
-is formed on
^Tost and 8.W.
mile from its
they do they
' the bay.
le N.W. coast
ent anchorage
ds, and wood,

u-chu, and its
ad the western
5 or 6 miles to
ima or Sugar-
3 a good guide
I sharp conical
water can be
water, full and

til Hole Eock
tpped hill, the
on this mark,
: until Bankin
entered, when
tending north-
in dock, with
ilmost entirely

MEIACO-SIMA ISLANDS.

899

3hah Bay, about 8 miles E.S.E. of Port Onting, is a beautiful land-lockod
sheet of water, but the reef fronting the entrance prevents its being accessi-
ble to vessels of larger size than the junks which frequent it ; within the
entrance the water deepens to 12 and 8 fathoms, the bottom being soft mud.
On the southern shore of the bay was found iron ore, mineral coal, and sul-
phur. The coal appeared of poor quality and mixed with earth, but good
coal might perhaps be found by digging.

Barrow Bay is a deep inlet, bounded by shoals, near the middle of the
eastern coast of Great Lu-chu. The following description is by Lieutenant
G. B. Balch, of the U.S. ship Plymouth, 1854.

A reef, of coral formation and bold to approach, commences 5 miles from
the South point of Great Lu-chu, and extends in an unbroken chain, outsido
all the small islands, as far as the N.E. point of Ichey Island, with the ex-
ception of a narrow channel between the islet off the N.E. end of Kyoko or
Kudaka Island, and the island of Taking. Ichey Island forms the south-
eastern point of Barrow Bay, which is useless for all purposes of navigation,
being exposed to the East winds and ocean swell. There is, however, secure
anchorage in about 16 fathoms water on the western sides of Ichey, and of
Hanadi, the next islet to the southward ; this anchorage is the only placo
of shelter on the eastern coast of Great Lu-chu.

MEIACO-SIMA ISLANDS.

This group forms the westernmost portion of a chain of islands extending
in an easterly and north-easterly direction from Formosa to the southern
extremity of Japan, and is divided into two divisions, Pa-chung-san and
Tai-pin-san. The Pa-chung-san or western division, consists of ten distinct
islands, of which five only are at all mountaiaous ; the remainder are flat,
like the coral islands in the Pacific, and similarly belted with reefs, which
connec- them into a distinct group. Besides these there is Chung-chi Island,
a high uninhabited mass of rocks; and to the W.N.W. of it Kumi Island,
conspicuous by the peculiar sharpness of its lofty peak, 770 ft. high, and
table base.

KUMI ISLAND is composed of coralline limestone, all its ranges are
capped with trees and brushwood, but excepting the pine fir, which contains
a great portion of resin, none attain any size. There are four villages on tho
island, one on the West, and two on the North side, one of which is inland,
in a basin-shaped valley. The principal town and port is on the North side.
Temporary anchorage, in fine weather, may be found on a sandy ledge
northward of the town.

A dangerous shoal, 3 miles in extent. East by North and West by South, is
reported as lying N.W. by W., distant about 10 miles from Kumi.

3 m2

^»s&^3Ssi5SSS3Ssg^S!B«s-#s;>': .*.'-;■;

■I

voo

ISLANDS AND SnOALS NORTH OP LAT. 20° N.

Breakers hnvo also been seen apparent!}' on a dangerous slioal, extending
East by Smith and West by North, and bearing from Kumi, S.W. by W.
3J leagues distant.

KU-KIEN-SAN and FA-CHTJNO-SAN ISLANDS afford several comtno-
dious harbours, and are, with good charts, quite safe of approach. Port
Haddington, on the West side of the latter island, would shelter a largo
fleet, but it abounds with coral patches, rising suddenly from 10 or 15 fa-
thoms almost to the surface ; in clear weather all those having as little as 5
fathoms are clearly discernible, and therefore easily avoided. Except on tlio
northern side of Ku-kien-san and the latter port, watering would bo found
very difficult, as reefs extend a great distance from the mouths of the streams.
Seymour Hay, at the S.W. angle of Ku-kien-san, must also be excepted, for
there a fine stream enters the sea in deep water, and a vessel might be
moored sufficiently close to lead the hoses from Hearlu's pumps into her,
without the intervention of boats and casks.

With respect to the various harbours of Ku-kien-san, there are two or
three adapted for shelter for small vessels, or even those drawing 18 feet,
where a refit might be accomplished in still water in any monsoon, or where
steam vessels might lie safely for the purpose of obtaining wood ; and there
are two other open bays, well sheltered in the N.E. monsoon, admirably
adapted for watering ; but there is not any other inducement to visit this
island. All tlie dangers are well marked by the coral fringe which extends
about a cable's length from the outline.

Of the dangers on the northern side of this group, it would not be prudent
that any vessel should run the risk of being hampered by the shoals, and
therefore should not come farther eastward, when beating up for Chusan,
than to sight Chung chi Island. The currents as these islands are approached
press more southerly and easterly than those that are experienced on the
coast of Formosa, and stronger breezes prevail as a vessel advances easterly
Indeed it blows incessantly at this western group.

The islands composing tlie Tai-pin-san (or Ty-ping-san) or eastern divi-
filon, are Tai-piii-san, Yer-ra-bu, Ku-ri-mah, Comma, and Hummock Island.
Tlio two islets, MitRunaand Tarara, between Tai-pin-san and Pa-chung-san,
are suid to bo a continuation of the reefs which extend to the N.E., N.
and N.W. of Tni-pin-san, and on which II. M.S. Providence was lost in 1797.
Captain (Sir Edward) Belcher looked in vain for Ykima Island.

TAI-PIN-SAN ISLAND is surrounded by an extensive chain of coral
reefs, upon which tho inlands of Ku-ri-mah, Yer-ra-bu, Coruma, and Eum-
moek respectively are situated to the West, N.W., North, and N.E. The
reefs do not project far westward from Ku-ri-mah, unless in patches un-
connected with the main belt. Oflf Yer-ra-bu they extend 3 or 4 miles,
but close towards its north-western angle, where a deep water channel
admits vessels within the belt up to Hummock Island and into the main har-

r N.

loal, extending
li, S.W. by W.

overal commo-
pproaeh. Port
shelter a larpe
I 10 or 15 fa-
g as little as 5
Except on tlio
could bo found
of the streams,
e excepted, for
vessel might be
imps into her,

are are two or
awing 18 feet,
isoon, or where
)od ; and there
ion, admirably
it to visit this
which extends

not be prudent
lie shoals, and
p for Chusan,
ire approached
rionced on the
'ances easterly

eastern divi-
mmock Island.
Pa-chung-san,
the N.E., N.,
IS lost in 1797.
A.

chain of coral
>na, and Sum-
d N.E. The
n patches un-

3 or 4 miles,
(Pater channel
the main har-

TAI-PIN-SAN ISTiAND.

901

hour of Tai-pin-snn. The roofs again spit out on tho S.W. angle of Coru-
u;iih, and sweep northerly, as far as tho eye can roach (from 100 foot elova-
tion), round to East in continuous linos of broakiTs, odgiiig in towards flio
south-east extremity of Hummock. A high patch of rociis lios on tho
N.E. angle of this outer belt, probably 10 miles from tho northorn point
of Tai-pin-san.

Safe anchorage during tho S.W. monsoon might be found inside tho roofs
of Hummock Island, ami also safe in tho other monsoon ; but tlio passage in
or out at that season would bo attended with risix, as suddon sfpuills, gales,
and numerous patches beset the whole eastern side of Tai-pin-san. Tho
southern coast lino, from the south-east breaker patch to tho south-wost
anchorage, does not offer many dangers if a tolorablo look-out bo observed.
The roofs do not extend more than half a cable from tho shore, and gono-

rally loss.

There can be no inducements for any vessel to visit Tai-pin-suu ; neither
wood, water, nor any other necessaries could be procured.

Capt. (Sir Edward) Belcher, II.M.S. Samanwg, Decomber 1814, says: —
Great caution is requisite in approaching the Meiaco-sima group from the
N.E., East, or South, particularly with fresh breezes, and in the absence of
the sun, by the aid of which reefs below water can be detected. They are,
from their greenish hue, being covered by seaweed, less distinct than at other
places, and therefore, where they are not marked on the chart, it muet not
be presumed that the space is free from danger ; the lead will not afford
timely warning.

Approaching the group from the S.W., the island of Ku-kien-san from its
great height will be first distinguished, presenting a round-backed summit
closely clad with trees ; knolls occur, elevated 2,000 ft. above the sea, but as
they seldom present the same appearance, owing to those nearer the coast
eclipsing them, their accurate measurement could not be obtained ; Adam
Peak, which may be noticed on the south-eastern outline, was determined to
be 1,200 ft. As the island is neared, the high rocky basaltic island of Chung-
chi will show out when the western limit of Ku-kien-san bears N.E. by N.,
and working for this islet no danger can be feared, and should night be-
fal, all the space on the north-west of Ku-kien-san up to the island of
Kumi is safe.

The Samarang entered the group from the westward, passing within two
mUes of the southern reefs or breakers off Hasyokan or Sandy Island, and
standing on close hauled to the eastward, intending to make Ykima, and
beat up from it to Tai-pin-san. On the morning following, not seeing Ykima
(which is supposed not to exist), and the weather very boisterous, sho stood
on to the westward to get under the lee of Pa-chung-san, and endeavour to
reach some place of shelter. On Hearing the latter island she ran down the

. m m ^ 'ii^ - •^i3gs^^yf■^^ aj « :^i ^^ ^ ^■a?iv;■-^;'y■''■-"'^^-^-"y^^^^

902 ISLANDS AND SHOALS NORTH OF LAT. 20° N.

eastern and southern side, reaching the Houth-westom extremity of its reef
about 4 p.m.

Here was a barrier of breakers as far as the eye could reach from the mast-
head, and apparently connecting Hanyokan Island with tho group of larger
islands. An opening, however, was found into tho reef, and after due ex-
amination the vessel was shot up into 13 fathoms, into Broughton Bay,
and warped into a snug position, whore she was moored with just suffi-
cient room to swing, the depths up to the coral ledges varying from 13
to 7 fathoms.

Broughton Bay.— The only directions which will assist the seaman in
finding this snug little anchorage (safe only, however, during the N.E. mon-
soon) are as follows : —

Approaching from the westward, as Chungchi is neared, Hasyokan or
Sandy Island will soon be seen, and avoiding tho space included northerly of
a line between Chungchi and it, a vessel may safely stand on, passing within
one mile of tho southern limit of Hasyokan, and work for the 8.W. angle of
Pa-chung-san, avoiding the roofs, which extend from it in a direct line N.E,
and S.W. to Hasyokan. A high rock, named South Rock, will point out the
outer roefs of Pu-chung-san. The dangers between it and Pa-chung-san
must bo avoided by eye, the shoals being visible in 5 or 6 fathoms, and
breaking upon those of 2 and 3 fathoms. The opening of the reef is in the
heart of a deep indentation, just northward of the low S.W. point of the
island, and it has apparently a centre bar. The right-hand opening is the
proper one.

From the eastward there are no dangers which are not clearly visible.
After making tho land edge along tho southern and eastern breakers until
the abrupt turn of the breaker line is seen, at which moment the extreme
S.W. point of the bay will open. The breakers have regular soundings oflF
them, but tho course in will probably lead in 7, 8, or 9 fathoms, deepening
to 14 or 15 off the inlet. As the breeze generally blows out, it will be advi-
sable to send a boat to find clear ground off the opening, and shoot up and
anchor. The veasel may then be warped in. But if merely intending a cur-
sory visit, the outer anchorage appears good.

At Broughton Bay, neither wood nor water can conveniently be pro-
cured ; and the only reason for noticing it is, that a port of refuge with
still water, in case of disaster, may be found on this side of the island ;
when a disabled vessel could not beat round to the more secure harbour of
Port Haddington.

There is a passage from Port Haddington into Broughton Bay, which
was used by H.M.S. Lily and Contest, in 1852, but it abounds with coral
reefs. — Commander J. W. Spencer, U.M. sloop Contest.

Port Haddington. — No safe anchorage is to be met with between Broughton
Bay and Port Haddington, which is on tho West side of Pa-chung-san ;

"^m^'.^ ''

N.
ity of its reef

Prom the most-
roup of larger
after due ex-
oughton Bay,
th just BUffi-
ying from 13

lie seaman in
heN.E. mon-

Hasyokan or
id northerly of
passing within
S.W. angle of
irect line N.E.
1 point out the
Pa-chung-san

fathoms, and
) reef is in the
'. point of the
opening is the

ilearly visible,
breakers until
t the extreme

soundings off
ns, deepening
it will be advi-

shoot up and
Ltending a cur-

iently be pro-
)f refuge with
9f the island ;
ure harbour of

n Bay, which
ids with coral

een Broughton
Pa-chung-san ;

PORT HADDINGTON.

1)03

although during the S.W. monsoon tlioro arc soveriil good bays on tlio
northern sideoftho island, whore anchorage might bo found, hut cortaiiily
not adapted for rutit.

When rounding the north-eastern extremity of Pa-chung-Han tlio two low
coral islets of Mitsuna and Tarara ought to be avoided at nij?lit, but tlio
dangers by day are clearly denoted by breakers. To tho northwiml of
these islets the ground is foul, and tho Samarang was compollod to tack to
tho westward in 7 fathoms, at loast 10 miles North of thorn.

Proceeding from Broughton Bay to Port Haddington, after rounding tho
N.E. end of the Pa-chung-san breakers, and running to tho westward tho
length of the island, haul close round the N.W. angle, and edge along
southerly within about a mile of the breakers. Tho port will then open
out, into which, with the prevailing breeze of tho N.E. monsoon, it will bo
necessary to boat. Off Hamilton Point, the North point of the port, will be
seen a remarkable little rocky hummock upon which was left a large pile of
stones. The bottom, for more than a mile off tho point, is rocky and dan-
gerous ; but as all the dangers off this port are visible from aloft, there is
no risk with a proper look-out. There is abundance of excellent anchorage
without, and where the vessel will be land-lookod The Samamng an-
chored about a mile or less within Hamilton Point, in 10 fathoms, clear
bottom.

This is a most convenient port during the N.E. monsoon. It is land-
looked, it is true, but there is a long fetch for the sea with a south-west
gale, and in that season typhoons are said to bo very violent about this
region.

A convoniont watering-place was established by sinking a cask and sus-
pending the suction hose of Ilearlo's pump over it, so as to prevent the sand
from being sucked in. Here wood is abundant, and the position is farther
preferable by being so far from the villages as to prevent the authorities
from feeling alarmed.

Sir Edward Belcher strongly suspects that extensive banks or ledges of
coral connect those islets (northerly) with Tai-pin-san ; and a good reason
for this offers in the fact of their being included by the natives in the
Tai-pin-san group, when they are much closer, by half the distance, to
Pa-chung-san.

Tho observatory at the S.W. angle of Tai-pin-san (at the most convenient
landing-place within the reefs, and the last rocky point towards the long sandy
bay) is in lat. 24° 43' 35" N., long. 125' 17' 49" E.

To the north-westward of the Meiaco-sima group, and north-eastward of
Formosa, are several islets and rocks, apparently volcanic, which have been
only properly known of late years, and even to the present time their cor-
rect number and positions are not absolutely determined. The principal aro
those to the westward, Uoa-piu-su and Pinnacle, and the Ti-a-usu IslaudB

•^^<S!S!Er,aBraiK:S'ilr»."<S*X.\*i*^!\V.*''-i.' "«-- J« ■«■ '

■ v; ' 5 j;i jujS-'^ t tSt'KjJ r

904

ISLANDS AND SIIOALH NORTH OF LAT. 20" N.

which are about ITi miloH npnrt, in a N.E. and 8.W. direction. Within this
Bi)(ico aro Hoverul roofB, niid alihough n safo cliannol exists between Iloa-
pin-8U and the Pinnacle Ishinds, which aro two milos apart, it ought not (on
account of the strength of tho tides destroying the stoorage) to be attempted
by sailing vossols if it can bo avoided.

HOA-PIN-SU is the Houth-wostemmost, and is about 95 miles E.N.E.
from Kolung 11 ai hour, at the North end of Formosa. The extreme Iroight
of Iloa-pin-su is 1,181 ft., tho island apparently being cut away vertically
at this elevation, on the southern side, in aW.N.W. direction ; the remaining
portion sloping to the eastward, where the inclination furnished copious
rills of excellent water. The North face of the island is in lat. 25" 47' 7"
N., long. 123=' 30 J' E. There are no traces of inhabitants, indeed the soil is
insufficient for the maintenance of half a dozen persons.

The Pinnaole Oroup, which is connected by a reef and bank of soundings
with Hoa-pin-su, allowing a channel of about 12 fathoms water between it
and tho Channel Hock, presents the appearance of an upheaved and subse*
quently ruptured mass of compact gray columnar basalt, rising suddenly
into needle-shaped pinnacles, which are apparently ready for disintegration
by tho first disturbing cause, either gales of wind or earthquake. On
tho summits of some of tho 6at rocks long grass was found, but no
shrubs or trees. The rocks wore everywhere whitened by the dung of
marine birds.

Ti-a-U8U, bearing N.E. northerly 15 miles from Hoa-pin-si appears to bo
composed of huge boulders of a greenish porphyritic ston The capping
of this island, from about 60 feet to its summit, which is .^bout 600 feet
above the sea level, is covered with a loose brushwood, but no trees of any
size.

RALEIOH ROCK.— The existence of this rock was considered doubtful
before July, 1837, when it was seen by H.M.S. Raleigh, bearing S. £ W.,
distant 12 or 14 miles. Its position by her reckoning was about latitude
25° 57' N., long. 124» 2' E., but later authorities place it 9' farther eastward.
It rises abruptly from a reef to a height of 90 ft. above the sea, is perpen-
dicular on all sides, covers an area of probably 60 ft. in diameter, and appears
in the distance as a junk under sail. Sir Edward Belcher states that the
weather would not allow him to fix its position, but that as he found it lying
upon the computed bearing, as given in the charts, froia Ti-o-usu, its position
cannot be much, if at all, in error.

RECRUIT ISLAND.— At about 30 miles eastward of the Raleigh Rock,
another lofty island was apparently first seen on March 11, 18G1, by Captain
J. Lyall, in the Recruit. It aiipeared, at a distance of 10 miles, to be 600 ft.
in height, the same size and height as Ti-a-usu.

}" N.

1. Within this
between Iloa-
t ought not (on
) be attempted

miles E.N.E.
I'xtromo Iroight
iway vortirally

the remaining
nishod copious
, lat. 25" 47' 7"
]ood the soil is

k of soundings
ter between it
'ed and subse"
sing suddenly
disintegration
khquake. On
found, but no
the dung of

appears to bo

The capping

.bout 600 feet

10 trees of any

ered doubtful
■ing S. i W.,
ibout latitude
her eastward,
ea, is perpen-
r, and appears
bates that the
found it lying
u, its position

aleigh Kock,
1, by Captain
, to be 600 ft.

ItKCIiUIT ISLAM).

<.)()."»

It wns iig.'iiii Rpon in lHr-,'J and IHiil by (^iptnin I{. Tutcholl, in tlio biig
fipi'fdijf and ho nh}m tlmt wlion it boars Wp8t iit I loii(;miH <listau(t', it hiiKtliH
nppenranro of two rucks. Captain Crowdiico, in the nhip Kiinj Li'ar, describcH
it as only 90 fcnt hinli, riMiiig very abrupt; and when boaring WcHt, northerly,
n small rock standing orect, like a pillar in riiiriH, was seen detached from
tho North side.

The four obHorvations for its poNJtiun ooiiicido very nearly, mid givu u
mean of lat. 26° 67' 40' N., long. 12^" 43' E.

This will cnnoludo our descriptions of the islands of tho North I'ucifio
Ocean. Tho roodor has boon brought around its shores from E(]uatorittl
America along the son boards of its Americnn and Aniatic bouiidarios, pn^t
countries of moHt widely oppowito clinrnctoristicH and interost. Tho islands
wliich lio between those coasts have also been emirnoratod and described,
and in these varied subjects we feel how grout has been tho increase in our
knowledge and in their importance in the interval of 20 years, since tho first
edition of this book was issued.

The continuation of its western limits is included in tho companion
volume, the Directory for the Indian Arclui)olago, China, and Japan. Tho
various archipelagoes, tho Philippine Islands, and the oastorn groups of that
groat insular world which bound the racific to tlio westward, are there
fully described.

n'3a««^SSS9SS*S?a®?5=EA»^?FS55'v5Sw«'l

~ :i. ' .j .i' ! t '-.' a -Sirgjg?>^'--

^ ^Aia i >i.uii i r il ii-y rii '-r<"rt i >T-nr>«';f|-'iT' VW l OCi^ ^

( 906 )

SECTION IV.

THE PHENOMENA OF, AND DIRECTIONS FOE THE
NOETH PACIFIC OCEAN.

The DrecedinKpagea having been devoted to directions, more or leea ex

ZZiZlL.. of the coasts and islands of the North Pacific, an.

"lading, incidentally, many notices of the peculiarities of the chmate ^.

meteorology of each region, there remains to be given a general v.ew of th

meteorolo^ of the ocean in a broader sense. But in a few words xt may b

rJdTaUhe arrangement of thephenomena in the North Pacific is so simpl

^d hete are so ely applied to the service of navigation that ^e ensuin

remarks need not be enlarged upon, further than as needful to gxve a coi

nected view of the subject. k^.-, u,^a

What follows will be a brief account of the N.E. trades and the Anh-braJ

winds as experienced in Ihe open ocean, and then a few remarks addition

to what have been before given on the various sections of the coast, a

these will be added an account of its currents, tides, and magnetism, a,

the concluding chapter wiU be devoted to the -PP^^-*- «^J^^

phenomena to the best mode of making successful passages between tl

various ports.

ian

iiT,iii;ri-'i 'i"i'''^W'iW6

5CTI0NS FOR THE
BAN.

jections, more or Iobb ex-
of the North Pacific, and
liarities of the climate, and
given a general view of the
it in a few words it may be
le North Pacific is so simple
lavigation, that the ensuing
a is needful to give a con-

E. trades and the Anti-trade
n a few remarks additional
B sections of the coast. To
tides, and magnetism, and
the application of these
iBsM passages between the

•l«Ta Sen

Fkcvaiz - "^r«^

^ lalmdi ■•■-,■'■;■■•' ''\ I .

IJO

Jft/Mttt

yitlin A' *i« '^y

'W,-,,,, ,

.AnW^

IC.O

-!<<KW»S- 'l^^lf-"

ff T'l, t .>*^Jf *"""

E 'j3. K^tt* STUET. ..ONiON

( 907 )

CHAPTER XIV.

1. THE WINDS OP THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

There is a general analogy between the meteorology of each of the great
oceans, especially of the Atlantic and Pacific. This has been dilated on in
each of the series of Directories, of which this forms a part, and therefore
doeij not require much discussion here. In our North Atlantic Memoir es-
pecially, Section III, pp. 177 — 216, the arrangement of the wind-zones and
the causes which lead to this arrangement are fully described. In the volume
on the Indian Ocean, Chapter I, pp. 1—76, the peculiarities of that ocean
are shown, differing as it does from the other great water areas in having
the great continent of Asia at its northern boundary, on the division between
the wind and current systems of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.
To this physical peculiarity the phenomena of the changing monsoons is
owing.

The North Pacific more resembles the North Atlantic than the other oceans
in its meteorology, but differing from that ocean in not having any connexion
with the Arctic area, for the passage of Behring Strait is too shallow and to
narrow to affect the general question. Further than this, the great area of
the Pacific seems to exercise a deadening effect on the motive forces of the
atmospheric and ocean currents which pass over it, both being of a more
moderate character than in the Atlantic.

There are very considerable variations from the normal condition of the
winds when near the land, where the effect of heat and season so greatly
modify the aerial currents as to produce real monsoons on either side of the
ocoan. Many of these exceptional cases have been noticed in the preceding
pages ; others vnll bw aiiuded to presently.

The general anemologioal arrangement of the North Pacific is thus : —
To the northward of about lat. 30° (a parallel varying with the season) are
found the S.W. anti-trade winds; between that parallel and lat. 7° or 10° N.
(also varying with tho sun's declination) is found the N.E. trade wind, and

,tm

908 WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEA...

between the last-named parallel and the northern point of the S.E. trade
wind is a narrow belt of calms or variable winds, to which the name of
''Doldrums" has been applied; it is a well-known belt of dilliculty to tho

sailor.

Captain Maury says : "It has a mean average breadth (around tho globe)
of about six degrees of latitude. In this region the air which is brought to
the Equator by the N.E. and S.E. traders ascends. This belt of calms
always separates these two trade wind zones, and travels up and down with
them. If we liken this belt of equatorial calms to an immense atmospherical
trough, extending as it does entirely round the earth ; and if we liken the
N.E. and S.E. trade winds to two streams discharging themselves into it, we
shuU see that we have two currents perpetually running in at the bottom,
and that, therefore, wo must have as much air as the two currents bring in
at the bottom to flow out of the top. Wliat flows out of tho top is carried
back North and South by tliese upper currents, which are thus proved to
exist and to flow counter to the trade winds."

The belt of calms follows the sun in his annual course, though the limits do
not range so much in latitude as the sun does iu declination, and generally
they pass from one extreme of latitude to the other in about three months.
The whole system of wind and calm belts move northward from the latter
part of May till some time in August ; they then remain almost stationary
till the approach of winter, when they commence to go southward, and pro-
ceed in that direction from December till February or Mar^.

Owing to the unequal distribution of land and water in the two hemi-
spheres, the relative proportions being in the northern hemisphere 100 land
to 160 water ; and in the southern 100 land to 628 water ; and, owing to the
great influence that the presence of land has on the aerial currents, the
division of the two wind systems is always to the North of the Equator,
that is, the mathematical and meteorological equators do not coincide.

The extent of the trade winds in latitude is U8ua"y considered to be from
30° S. to 30° N., but these limits are subject to so many variations, that
such a statement must be received with great limitations. We have not the
means of drawing such a close approximation to a true mean as can be done
in the Atlantic Ocean, from tho fewer recorded observations, but the follow-
ing table is given by the late excellent Ch. Ph. de KerhaUet, of the French
Marino, as the result of 92 vessels which have crossed the line between the
longitudes of 106° and 147° West.

WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

9oy

Tulle of the limits of the N.E. and S.E. Trades, and the breadth of the interval

between them in each month.

Tradb Win 1)8.

Polnr

Limit.

Kqmitorial Limit.

Rirtidth of thn

iiitorvoniiis

zonu of culiim,

&c.

OftheN.K.
l-ut. N.

OfthoS.E
Lilt. S.

(iffhpN.E.
Lilt. N.

OfthcS.K.
Lai. N.E.

1.1 *

21
20 28

30
29 6
27 41

31 43
20 30

24 20
26 6

25
24

33 25
2S 51
31 10

27 25
2.S 24

26 28
24 18
24 51
23 27

28 39
22 30

30
4 1

8 15

4 45
7 52

9 58

12 5
15

13 50
12 20

• •

5 12

3
2
5 50

3 30
2 30
5 4

2 30
8 11

3 32

• •

1 56

3 30

February .... ,

Miireh

2 1
5 25
2 45

Muy

4 10

Juiio ...■•■■•..

7 28

July

Au<''ust ..••

7 1
12 30

September

October

5 45

8 48

November

December

3 16

It will be seen according to this table, that the polar and equatorial limits
of these trade winds vary with the aeason, and remove further from or
nearer to the Equator, according as the sun has North or South declination ;
and that the breadth of the intervening zones is less in winter than in the
summer of the northern hemisphere. In other respects this zone has much
resemblance to the corresponding belt in the Atlantic. It is in reality
broader on the meridians of 90° to 110° than further to the westward, those
of 120° to 150° W. longitude ; that is to say, the breadth of the calm zone
diminishes according as you advance westward, precisely analogous to tho
wind system in the Atlanac, the recent knowledge of which has had such a
marked influence on the trans-equatorial voyages.

The term calm-belt is not precisely applicable to these equatorial " dol-
drums," because, besides calms and light airs, variable between N.W. to
South by the West, storms, gales, and abundant rain are frequently
encountered.

CSl:T?l3.KSS;«gmSJ!9ra>t|E5IJ5!

910 WINDS OF THE NORTH rACIPlC OCEAN.

Owing to tho land influenceB boforo alluded to, tho northern limit of this

^n, i. .t the «..n m lat. « »■ '"f;" ^ „.„j, ^^^ ,„t „ttet without
But it BOmoUmOB occurs that the two naae wm"

«u, mtemning ,f<^ »«''7''"»'" «''";■ ^„j, j,„„„a ,h„ Bp,«, on

ih. ^.«..»« ^;*,'^;t:the^'rdrfl:te. la., o, .ovL i-

"^SHbrctT^ritr'^r::^^^^

'TC ^ 1. brLight iuto if are. oud limit, iu tho varioue eeasoa..
rit:^!^ XVL' the Hawaiian gxoup, which iu alt»u.te eoaao.,
• •.k;„H«i.flecto OP iu the holt of tropical »»mbles.

„f^t ^ wti require still fewer words. It has all the geueral charac

^ T!L rimilar wind iu tho Atlantic, and perhaps is more persistent

tenstic. of the ""T* ™^ g^, ^ ^ ;, „^ „uch affected by the

on the «»7? «** "'J^ X ^a ^hiug tho ocean as a .ery dr, and

cold w.nd, rt ha. » ""^'P fj ,^, g,. „, Okhotsk, 4o., which are
northern parte of Japan, »'«■'• j ^ complololy ico-

rr t ^iTXe^ wCthe great Lm streau. c^M
\ f ■ iC^nt runs to the north-westward, carrying w,th it tho
"" "TaLoHh" tropical latitude., .hi. cold and dry wind » condensee
„.m,.r water »« «^« "»»^ ^,^^ ^^ „„^„,, ,h.t they are «.ndensed

the wanner ™P°"" ™* ''7^„ii„ ^a weU-known region is found iu
into almost T^^^J^^ n Jot^and, hut here these fo,. extend far
rth'rrlXo" Xe -- .. ic contiuu^ly the extensive ranges

jz te.w- in .. fu.w ^» r wr,"iiX"::^.

eastward, it« '7*"^^,^""^"*;^ „„ fl., coast, aud idauds of that

which depoate .t. '''»°*^' ^"r*^^ ,„ the United State, by Bu»i..

hitherto "•''«l-°'^J^J;rt^^f.:rof B"«^^ Columbia, the cUmate,

Further to the ^""''^ ™ Hxtt ernes of heat and cold on the coaet

" '' ""br X Z rtror-^L, wUch intercept much of thU
regions, but within me raug moisture, the cUmate is

^.^.trade wind, »* --^»j:™* ^1 '^.L'^Lt countries in the world,

^?a,e spoken etawhoro. A few words w.U foUow.

WINDS OF THE NORTH TACIFIO OCEAN.

911

As boforo said, tho action of tho land on these difforont aerial curronts is
very great, and can only be understood by a special description of each dis-
trict. Tho following selection is given to afford this insight.

Central America. — On pages 4 and 5 are given some general remarks on
the climate of tho western coast of the great American peninsula. The
following is by the late Lieut.-Comm. Jas. Wood, R.N., who surveyed por-
tions of the coast in H.M.S. Pandora. The first part of these observations
refers to the coast to the southward of Panama, but will be useful to sailing
vessels making this difficult port.

Guayaquil Eiver to GuAacAMES Toint.
The Intertropical— Along the whole of the coast from the Bivor Guayaquil,
in 3° S., to Guascames Toint, in 2° N., the wind is mostly from South to
West all the year round ; the exceptions are few, and generally occur in tho
fine season. Both in beating up this coast to tho southward, and in running
down it, tho fomier in the months of May and June, the latter in those of
October, November, and January, we hud the wind from S.SE. to West
(by tlie South), with a constant current to the north-eastward, the only dif-
ference being that the winds were lighter, and the weather finer in May and
June as wo got to tho southward ; whilst the contrary took place in October
and November ; and in January the weather was generally fine with mode-
rate breezes.

Choco Bay. — After entering the Bay of Choco, of which point Guascames
forms the southern horn, the winds become more variable ; but during tho
time we were in the bay (fron the end of January to the middle of March)
it never blew very fresh, though the weather was often unsettled, and heavy
rains frequent. The prevailing wind was from S.W., but north-westerly
winds were not uncommon.

Chikambira Point to the Gulf of San Miouel. — Whei. past Chiram-
bira Point (the northern horn of Choco Bay) we had the wind more from
the northward, and in the latter end of March had to beat up to Panama
Bay against north-westerly and north-easterly breezes, blowing a fresh
breeze at times, especially aa we approached the bay.

In surveying this last-named part in January, 1848, we found the winds
more variable, heavy rains almost always accompanying a change to 8.W.,
from which quarter we once or twice had a stiflf breeze.

Gulf of San Miguel to the Gulf of Dulce, including the
Bay of Panama'.

First, or Intertropical Winds.— Between the southern point of the Gulf of
San Miguel and tho Gulf of Dulce, including Panama Bay and tho coast of

913 WINDS OF TTIE NOllXn TACTFIO OCEAN.

Voragua, tlio wiiuls nro ro-ulnte.l by tlio soaHons Tcwards the end of

December the northers bof^in to blow. Those are fino, dry broo/.os, wh.ch

Ronerally como on in tho aftnruoon, and blow vory fVosli fn.m N.N.E. to

N.N.W till near midnight, with a porfoetly (dear and cloudless sky, and tho

nir so dry and rariiio.l that objects on a level with tho horizon are distorted

and flattened, and tho same efrotta aro caused as are seen during an

easterly breeze oil" our own coast. Though generally a double-reefed topsail

breeze, they occaMonally blow nu.eh liarder, especially off the coast ot

VerMgua, where, in the months of January aud February, oven a close-roofed

topsail breeze is not uncommon. During oven tho strongest of these, a

dead calm often prevails 10 or U, miles off tho land, the only evidence of tho

gale that is blowing within a few hundred yards of you being the agitation

of the water, which is raised into short hollow waves, which break on board

and tumble you about awfully.

Towards the end of March up to tho middle of April, the northers begin
to cease, and are succeeded by calms and light sea and land-breezes, with
occasional squalls from the south-westward. As April advances the squalls
get stronger and more frequent, and by the early part of May the rainy
Boason generally sots in, during the greater part of v-hich South and south-
westerly winds prevail. These are not very violent within the Bay of Tu-
nanui ; but fr.mi Punta Mala westward, gales f- -m the above quarters aro
frequent, and sometimes severe, bringing a very heavy sea with them.

Gulf of Dulce to tue Gulf of Foxseca.
From the Gull of Dulco, proceeding westward along the shores of Costa
Eica, Guatemala, and Mexico, we find the winds still follow the changes of
tho seasons, modified, however, by locality. For instance, whenever the
northers prevail, wo find them blowing off tho shore at nearly right angle.s
to the run of the coast ; thus, as soon as the coast of Nicaragua is approached
(which takes a more northerly direction than that before mentioned) we find
during the fine season the northers exchanged for breezes called Papagayos.
These blow from N.N.E. to E.N.E. or East, and are accompaniod by the
Bame clear fino weather as the northers; the prevailing wind, however,
during this season (from January to April) is from S.E. to N.E. From May
to November, which is the rainy season, the weather is mostly bad, gales
from the West and S.W., with thunder, lightning, &c., being frequent, and
at times violent.

Gulf of Fonseca to the Gulf of Tbhuantepec.
After passlu- tho Gulf of Fonseca, where the land again trends nearly
due West, the northerly winds are lost, till on reaching the Gulf of Tehuan-
tepec we meet them onco more, but under a different name, and assuming

il..

WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

913

a moro violont charactor. Along tliis portion vlioro tlio mountains npproacli,
and ovon in some jjlacoH form tho coast lino, liio winds* durin^,' tiio iiiio
Hoa.Hon aro tho UBiial tropif^al land and noa-broo/cH ; tho fonuor from N.W.,
tho latter from South to W.S.W. and WcHt. Tho romaininR moiitiiH aro
marked by ovon M-orso woathor from tho flflmo (luartors m is found on tho
Nicaragua coaHt.

FnoM THE Ot:r,F of Teiiuantkikc to Texii-an Toint.
Firxt, or ftitirtrnpical JFrnrf/).— Tho h(>avy blasts which Mow over tho
isthmus of Tt'himntoiioc dorivo tlioir source from tho country thoy cross.
Thoy Boom to bo caused by tho northors in tho Gulf of Mexico, which hero
find n vent through tho oponing formed between tlio Mexican and Ouut(>ma-
lian mountains. Tlioy blow with great force from North to N.N.E., and
raise a vory high short sea; their force is felt for several hundrod miles olf
tho coast. During tho soason when they prevail (December to April) every
preparation should bo mado to moot and carry sail through them; if this
can bo done they aro soon crossed, and '2()() to 200 miles of westing (or
easting) made; otiierwiso, if you are obliged to heave-to, 30 to 118 hours of
heavy wcatlier may bo oxpoctod, exposed all the while to a very high and
short sea. In tho rainy season these coaso ; but tho weather here, as along
tho whole coast of Mexico, is then very bad, gales and strong breezes from
S.E. to S.W. constantly occur, whilst squalls, accomjianiod by thunder and
lightning, witii heavy and almost incessant rain, characterize the season
throughout. These gales aro at times very severe, rendering tho navigation
of such a coast vory unpleasant, as, with one exception, there is scanioly
any shelter from them to bo found. During the fine season, however,
nothing can be more regular or quiet than the weather on tho Mexican coast.
A regular sea-breeze sots in about noon, beginning from 8. S.W. to W.S.W.,
and getting more westerly as the sun goes down, decreasing with it, and
gradually sinking into a calm as tho night closes in. This is succeeded by
the land-wind off tho shore, which is more irregular in its direction and
force ; but these winds, and the method of making a passage to the west-
ward along the coast, have been so well and so truly described by Dampier
and Basil Hall, that nothing remains but to add my testimony to tho (iorrect-
ness of the accounts they give as far as their phenomena fell under my own
observation.

As soon as tho coast begins to trend northerly again, which it does about
Texupan Point, we moot tho northerly winds which blow down the Gulf of
California, and which are found pretty steady during tho fine.sea.son a few
miles off tho coast ; by taking advantage of these, and the daily variations
caused by the land and sea breezes, th'^ passage is made from this point to
San Bias and Mazathin ; but it is always a tedious beat, owing to a contrary
current and frequent calms.

Mrl/t rucijiv. ^ '^

» tVf s/'v^m^iso^-r

i«' -J "» M.a'g TI» - Tffrg^y ^■ ' " --^Ng** '

oil WINDH OK TOE NOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

Wert Coast ok Mexico.
On pages 8(. to 82 boiuo ronuirkH will be found from the pen of Con.m...loro
0. B. HaiMiltoT., 1811), doHcribing the winds and wo.ither exi..r.om:od on
board II.M.H. Frolic. To tlieHO nuiy bo added here «ome obHorvationH taken
from Cuptuin Uasil llall'a well-known work. _

On the S.W. coast of Mexico, the fair Boason, or what is called the
summer, though the latitude bo N..rth, is from December to May inclus.vo.
During this intorval'alone it is advisable to navigate the coast ; for, m the
winter, from Juno to N..vembor inclusive, ovory part of it is Imblo to hard
gales, tornadoes, or heavy squalls, to calms, to constant deluges of ram, and
L most dangerous lightning; added to which, almost all parts of the coas
are at this time so unhealthy as to be abandoned by the mhab.tants At
the eastern end of this range of coast, about I'anama, the wmtor sots m
earlier than at San Bias, which lies at the western end^ Hums -jl -kness
are looked for early in Manh at I'ananu. ; but ut San Bias ra.n seldom falls
before the 15lh of Juno ; sometimes, however, it begins on the Is of June,
as we exoerionced. Of the intermediate coast I luvve no exact mformation,
except that Pecon>ber, January, and February are fine months ---ywhere ;
and that, with respect to the range between A.apulco and 1 anama, h
Months of March, April, and half of May, are also fine ; at other tunes the
coast navigation may be generally described as dangerous, and on every

account to be avoided.
Tom December to May inclusive, the prevalent winds between Panama

and Cape Blanco (Gulf of Nicoya) are N.W. and northerly Ihence to
Eealei and Sonsonate, N.E. and easterly. At this season, ott the gulfs f
P paTayo >nd Tehuantepec there blow hard gales, tie first being generally
N E and r 'atter North. These, if not too strong, as they sometimes
L greatly acc«. the passage to the westward ; they last for severa

:;Together. with a c.. ^ky overhead, and a dense "";^- ^^ ;
horizon Wo experienced both in the Conway in February, 1822. The hr t,
whTwas off the gulf of Papagayo on the 12th. carried us 230 miles to the
W N W • but the gale we met in crossing the giUf of Tehuantepec on the
.-Hh ■ 25ti. and 26th, was .. hard that we could show no sail, and were
id off to the 8.S.W. raor. .han 100 miles. A ship ought to be well
prepared on these occasion., fo^ the gale is not only severe, but the sea,
IhTch rises quickly, is un, .m.nonly high and short, so as to stram a ship

- "Frtmtcapulco to San Bias, what are called land and sea breezes blow ;
but as far as my experience goes, during the whole of March, they sca^ely
d slve It nie. They are described as blowing from N-W^ and Wes
dur ng the day. and from N.E. at night ; whence it might be inferred, tha
a 2t f .ind amounting to eight points, takes place between the day and

r ronimodoro
ptrioucctl mi
ratiuuH taken

WIND8 OK THE NORTH PAi'IFK^ OCEAN. ^'l".

nij^ht broozos. Hut, ilurinjf the whole ilintanco hotwoou Aiupiilid iitul Sun
BIrh, togothor with about 100 niih>!* East of AfupuWo, which wo worked
ah)iig, hank for hunk, wo nevor found, or ver^ rarely, that a greater shift
could be reckoned on than four pointH. Wnth this, howovor, and tlio greatest
diligence, a daily progrois of from '^(^ to \»> milen may bo nuide,

IB called the
[ay inelusivo.

; for, in tho
iablo to hard
i of rain, and
i of tho coast
abitants. At
yintor Bots in
» and sickness
u seldom falls
e 1st of Juno,
t information,
i everywhere ;

Panama, tho
ther times the
and on every

ween Panama
y. Thence to
tt" the gulfs of
eing generally
hey sometimes
ast for several
haze near the
822. The first,
30 miles to the
antepec on the
sail, and were
ight to be well
e, but the sea,
;o strain a ship

, breezes blow ;
(1, they scarcely
f.W. and West
le inferred, that
sen the day and

liOWEii Calikounu.

There is no good account of tho meteorology of this portion of (he wostorn
coast of Amurica. But in some muasuro this is of less importu luo, inasmueli
as it has fow ports, and thc.io but very little frociuentod by coinmorcn. ( >n
p. 12;J some remarks by Mr. Jeffery, ll.N., are givon. Tho following iiro by
Commandor Jamos Wood, and aro in continuation of those givon on pago
1)13 ante.

San Lucas to San Dieoo.

From Capii San Lucas to San Diego, or from 23" to 32'' N., tho general
direction of the wiml is from West to North, but during tho winter months,
or from Novombor to April, this coast is subject to violent gales from tho
S.E., which, as most of the bays and anchoragos aro open towards that
quarter, are much dreaded. This is especially the case along tho northern
portion of this divi-.'^n, as towards Cape St. Lucas thoy are loss freciuont ;
however, thoy always give ample warning of their approach. Tho only way,
therefore, of making a jjussage up this coast is by standing oil' upon the
starboard tack ; as you get out the wind draws to the eastward, till either
the variables are reached, or you can fetch your port on tho other tack. In
the summer season the only alteration is that tho wind is more westerly in
the mornings, and draws round with the sun as the day advances.

Fr u San Diego to San Francinco the wind prevails from the north-west-
wan .early all the year round.* This coast is subject to the same south-
easterly gales as the coast of Lower California, but they are more frequent
here, and blow with greater force. All its bays and roadsteads aro similarly
exposed, with the exception of the above-named ports, which are perfectly
socure, and defended from all winds. During the winter, therefore, vessels
always anchor in a convenient berth for slipping, with springs and buoys on
their cables, so that on the first appearance of heavy clouds approaching
from the S.E., with a swell rolling up from the same quarter (the invariable
signs of the coming gale), they may be able to slip and go to sea without

• In the Gulf of California two winds prevail during the year— f.he N.W. from October
to Maj', and tho S.E. from May until October. During the former season Ire^h breezes
and fine weather will prevail ; when the latter brings heavy rainSj oppressive heat, and
sultry weather. This information was copied by Sir. Jeffery, R.N., from an old Spanish
manuscript, aud in his visit here in 1834 he proved its correctness.

3n2

91G

WINDS OF THE NORTH TACIFIC OCEAN.

loss of time. Theao galos last from twolvo hours to two days, and aro ac-
conipaniod by heavy rain, wliich lasts till the wind changes, which it often
does very suddenly, and blows as hard for a few hours from the N.W., when
tho clouds clear olF and fine weather again succeeds. Off Concepcion Point
gales and strong breezes are so frequent as to obtain for it the appollatio a of
tho Cape Horn of California. They arc mostly from North to West, and
frequently blow with groat force, especially in the winter, when they sonio-
timos last for three days together, without a cloud to bo seen, till they begin
to moderate. But hero one of tho most remarkable features of this coast
first shows itself, viz., tho frequent and dense fogs, which, duri'ig n)oro than
half tho year, render tiie uavigation from San Diego northward most un-
pleasant. In making tho land, tlie only way to deal with thorn is to feel
your way into the coast with tho lead during the daytime, as it frequently
happens that a thick fog prevails at sea, while at tho same time, within a
mile or two of tho land, a clear, bright sky, and open horizon aro to be
found ; if di.sappointed in this you have but to wear, haul off again, and
heave-to till tho desired change does take place.

Califoujiia.

A general account of tho winds on tho western coast of the United States,
as given in tho excellent hydrographical memoir by Mr. Davidson, U.S.N.,
will bo found on pages 154-5. The U.S. Government zealously collected
materials for meteorological discussion along the whole of tho coast, during
the survey of 1855, and these have brought out tho following general
results : —

1 . The groat prevalence of westerly Avinds, representing a flow of the air
at tho surface from the ocean in upon tho land.

2. Tho g07ieral absence of easterly winds, showing the absence of a return
current at tho urface.

Tho proportion of westerly to easterly winds is as 8 to 1 .

3. The increase of westerly winds in the summer, and their decrease in
the winter.

4 . That when easterly winds blow at all, it is as a rule during winter.

.5. Tlie N., N.E,, and E. winds blow more frequently in tho morning than
in the afternoon hours.

6. The S.E., S., and S.W. winds aro in general pretty equally distributed
over the morning and evening hours.

7. Tho N.W. is the prevailing direction of the ordinary sea breeze at
Astoria and San Diego, and the W. at San Francisco.

Sometimes the West wind has that character at the first-named stations,
and sometimes the S.W. wind at the last named.

As some of tho details connected with these observations wiU be of service
to our readers, they are here furnished.

iHB

and aro ac-
i-hich it often
i N.W., when
;epcion Point
appollatio a of
to West, and
sn thoy sonio-
ill tlicy begin
of this coast
ig n)oro than
ard most un-
om is to foel
it frequently
me, within a
on aro to be
I again, and

Jnited States,
:l8on, U.S.N.,
jsly collected
coast, during
wing general

jw of the air

CO of a return

r decrease in

g winter.
norning than

ly distributed

5oa breeze at

incd stations,

be of service

WINDS OF THE NOIITII TACIFIC OCEAN.

917

San Francisco. — At San I'.ancisco the great current of air flowing from tho
sea to the land comes generally from tho W, or S.W., rai'oly from tho N.W.

In tho period from November to March, inclusive, the West is tho pro-
vailing wind, exceeding in quantity both the others, tho S.W. wind exceed-
ing in quantity the N.W. In the period from April to October tho W. and
S.W. winds a:e nearly equal, and each exceeds tho N.W.

The West wind has, in general, tho features attributed to the sea breeze,
beginning after the rising of tho sun, increasing until after the hottest part
of the day, and dying out or much diminishing at nightfall.

The West and S.W. winds are prominent features at San Francisco.

The S.W. is tho prevailing wind in June and July ; S.W. and West winds
blowing nearly tho 'vholuof these montha, not succoodod by an easterly land
breeze — but rising and falling. May and August rcseiiiblo oath other, the
N.W. and S.W. winds being nearly equal in quantity, and eacih less than
tlio West wind. In April and September the N.W. wind has nearly died
out. The West wind diminishes in quantity through March and February,
and through October, November, and Dt'cember, to January. The N.W.
wind increases again from April towards December, but is very small in
October and November. The S.W. wind disappears in October, renppoaring
in November and December, and increasing towards January. Tlie West
wind has a maximum in April and May, and another in September and
'October, tho minima being July and January.

The North wind in December, January, and re1)ruary, rcai'Iiing a maxi-
mum in January, is tho only other point to bo noti<;od for S.iu Francisco,
partaking with the other places in tho general absence of easterly winds,
although those show themselves slightly in i* inter. There is also but littlo
South wind.

Astoria and San Diego. — In general, tho winds at those two places resem-
ble each other more than those at San Francisco do (jithor. April, May,
June, July, and August liavo tho same general chnracter.

Tho N.W. wind is the summer wind, and has the characteristics of tiie sea
breeze, but there is no return land breeze. The N.W. wiud roaches a
maximum in July and a miiiirnum in Decombor. It is the great prevailing
wind of tho year it San Diogo. Aa it decreases it is generally replaced by
West and S.W. winds of less Cj^uantity. In December tlie quantities of the
threo winds are ncai-ly eqtial.

Tho rosorablanco of those winds at San Diego and Astoria is remarkable,
the remarks just made applying generally to both places. There is, how-
ever, mu(^h less N.W. wind at Astoria than at San Diogo. Ijseept in June,
July, and August, there is some South wind each month at Astoria, and
cspiicially from September through October, November, December, and
Februarj'. At San Diego this is lees marked, the two agreeing moat nearly
iu ifuautity in March, April, and May.

918

WINDS OF THE NOETH PACIFIC OCEAN.

The S.E. >viud is a distinct feature in both places in February and March,

and at San Diego in April and Juno. Vebrua-V, and March,

The East wind is prominent at Astoria m January, Februa y,

and the N.E. from October to January inclusive^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^

Astoria has the most easterly wind, the N.ih. Deginni g

windiest months of the year.

Vancouvkr Island, Alaska, &c.

315, and these with othe. .uthoritie. menfoned m that pa,to.
will amply buIRcm, for this portion of the snbject.

Of the n,.teo,„K,- ofthe eoa.t -*."'^ /'. *";;,r,n tw, ■
„„eh .0,0 limited, fo. ;''\f;-frof t ■» '"^ "^°-
r" Z :« ::: ;v itCltU^ the oh.e„ati„na on cW.,
?° '"' I Ze ieX^i from fourteen years' l.o.,„ obeervaUon. at th,

-:ro:iryt..a..^

that the average number ot wet or lo^gy »J i-

^'""'If^'' h of old date we give here the observations of Adm. Krusenstern,

Although of old aate, we givo ^^^^^

^hich embody the experience gamed up to the date ot g

hydrographer's labours. ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ „f

Humboldt supposes ^1^^* ^^t-- ^^^^^^ ^^^^„„^,^ ,,,, j, ^o say, from

North latitude there prevail North and boutn m ,

the month of May to that of <^/«. ^ ^"^1 Nor^aTd ^E^ does not
^'^^^'f rtreC.tr: r.W^^^^ other na^gators

r'r;:.-d\:e\VcoastofAme^^^^^^

each other ^^^ ^ ^^tZ':^:^i:^l^ from this
during summer, and from N«^^/^"" ? .^^^ ^,, also very frequent

*'^Tr^T^t:iZ■:i:si':in"'^^^^^^^ -in. ^w. u..

m winter, and it is witu a ^^^^ ^^.^^ ^^^.

:rrire:rt::rsit^;f:::r^^^^^^^^^

:r:Z;S r:i7i:X1X aryUer, and oftene.

'tJ^'alirLn.. e.an.p.», ta.en from the .i--'' f *-- X^;;
Jtld navi8«.o.. .bo have visited the NV. coa.t. o, .W„ca. to .how

WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

ni9

and Marcht

and March,

October and
1 March.
ig one of the

the southern
)n pages 314,
of our work,

[juaintance is
) but few re-
ented region,
as on climate,
rations at ^^-'^
irly shc^KV
!to hundred and

. Krusenstem,
3 great Pacific

) 5th degree of
; is to say, from
1 S.E. are met
3. It does not
ther navigators
I winds succeed
er from South
;hink from this
so very frequent
8 in. We find,
iw during sum-
ig in summer or
I and rain ; and,
ler, and oftenest

f the more cele-
Lmcrica, to show

that the winds have hero too little regularity in thoir direction, to give them,
as Humboldt dDos, the name of monsoons.

Cook, while on the coast of America in the month of March, in lat. 41%
had constant and very fresh breezes from N.W., w'.iicli accompanied him
during his navigation towards the North until tho beginning of summer ;
he mot with, it is true, from time to time, gales from the S.E., but they wovh
but sudden shifts, and did not commonly last more than six hours, affr
which the wind reverted with groat force to tho N.W., and it was only by
moans of theso short breezes from the S.E. that Cook could work h.s wuy
to tho North. It is seen equally by tho voyages of Porouse, and Portlock,
and Dixon, tliat southerly winds do not predominate during the suminor

months. . . . , ,,

Although Vancouver, when surveying the coast of Amonca in the middle
of April I7!l'2, that is, towards the end of the northerly monsoon, expe-
rienced violent gales from S.E. and E.S.E., with continued rains, and,
although up to 60^ of lat. the winds blew continually from the southern
quarter, yet when 1 e came on to the coast in the ensuing year, following it
upon the same parallel and in the same season, that is, mid-April, ho met
with fresh northerly winds as far as his arrival in Nootka Sound. It is true
that in the month of September, in the same year, ho met with soiuo br(>ezo8
from S.E. to S.W., but he also had them from N.W. In tho month of De-
cember, 1792, on the contrary, being under the parallel of Port San Diego,
in lat 32- 42' N., tho winds blew constantly from the South. These accom-
panied them to the parallel of 30^ although they ought to have blown from
the North if these winds change regularly. Thus it is winds from the north-
ward, and particularly from the N.W., which blow the most frequently, and
occasion, as Vancouver says, a great hindrance to any advance to the north-
ward ; the Spaniards, consequently, in general koep a long way off the coast,
running much to the northward of the parallel of their intended destination,
to arrive at it more readily. Vancouver believes that they push this precau-
tion too far ; he is of opinion that, by the aid of the land-breezes from East
and S E., the duration of which is longer, and which have also greater force
.han the sea-breezes, any port may be attained. This opinion of Vancouver
, correct, at least for the navigation <rom the Bay of San Francisco, in lat.
->■ -x Concepcion Point, in 3 l.r, and even farther Nortli.

-^.ar to the Bav of Kenay (or Cook's Inlet). Kodiack Island, and Prince
• ViUiam's Sound; Vancouver found, in March and April, most frequently
V - ' • , from N W. and North. In May, Juno, July, and August, 1794, the
wnds often blew from S.E. and East, with great force, bat not less fre-
■ uently than from N.W. and S.W. Although Captain Moavos had a very
stron.^ wind from S.W. under the parallel of oO", and that durmg the
months of June and July the winds come more fre.,uontly fnun South than
from North, he says, nevertheless, page 234 of his Voyage, that during the

920

WINDS OF TEE NOETH PACIFIC OCEAN.

summer months westerly winds prevail as far as 30° of latitude, with as
mucli regularity as easterly winds prevail from 30" to the equator.

I am indebted to Captain Hagomeister, of our marine, for some notice on
the predominant winds and curronts in this part of the globe, and which ho
had collected during a navigation of several years on the N.W. coast of
America. These notices merit the greatest confidence, being the result of a
groat number of observations made with the most scrupulous exactness,
particularly at Now Archangel in Norfolk Bay, and at Fort lioss (Port
Bodega), on the coast of New California ; both lio within the limits which I
have given to the first zone. It results from those observations, as well as
from those already cited, that northerly winds are not the exclusive attribute
of wmter, as those of the South are not of summer, but the contrary fre-
quently takes place.

By the observations made at New Archangel in lat. 57" 2' N., it seems
that It IS easterly winds, accompanied with rain and snow, that aro predo-
minant in wi. , n At the beginning of December there aro frequent squalls
and tempests, ^ ,o not occur in summer, and towards the end of this

month tho Auroie. gales are very strong. About Capo Chirikoff, in lat
56° 9 , the curronts have a constant North direction, and often with a velocity
of 2 miles an hour. Tho direction of the current along this coast is in
general towards the North; near to Port St. Francis it takes a West direc
tion, toward Prince William's Sound and the entrance to Cook's Inlet, after
which It turns toward the South, along the coasts of Kodiak. Tho remains
of vessels shipwrecked on the American coast are often found about tho
Bouthorn part of the Island of Kodiak; among thorn those of Japanese
vessels, which are recognised by the camphor-wood of which they aro built.

Beiiiung Sea.
There is no complete account of the .Jimate or winds of this inclement
region, and to dorive it from the individual expei-ionce of the various navi-
gators who have recorded their knowledge would but give a fallacious view
of the subject, as tho features of its different shores vary greatly from each
other Among the northern islands it is as humid and disagreeable as
possible. Spring does not begin till May. Dense fogs prevail throughout
the summer; snow fulls in October, and in December tho North winds bring
tho ice, which remains frequently till May. Further South at Behring and
Copper Islands, the climate is not so rigorous, as explained on page 549.

Kamchatka.
Easterly winds prevail in summer, varying between N.E. and S.E., while
westerly winds are constant from September till May, and are frequently
very stormy Westerly winds in summer bring bright fine weather, while
easterly winds bring snow or rain.

WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

921

ude, with as

mo notice on
nd which ho
.W. coast of
10 result of a
18 oxactness,
; lioss (Port
mits which I
8, as woU as
ive attribute
iontrary fro-

N., it seems
; aro predo-
uont squalls

end of this
koff, in lat.
th a velocity

coast is in
West diroc-
Inlet, after
ho remains

about the
f Japanese

are built.

I inclement
rious navi-
cious viow
from each
rooable as
hroughout
inds bring
bring and
;e 549.

E., while
requontly
ler, while

The winds in tho Gulf of Tartary, to tho South of this, aro described
on page 580.

Japan.

During tho stay of tho American squadron in tho Oulf of Yodo, from
February to July, 1854, the weather was generally fine, but occasionally in-
terrupted by strong winds and heavy rain. Northerly winds were prevalent
in February, March, and April, south-westerly winds in May and July, and
variable winds in Juno, Tho gales come on suddenly from tho S.W. with a
low barometer, and continuing for a short time, luuilod round to the north-
ward and westward and moderated. There were no easterly gales ; in fact,
tho wind was rarely from that quarter, except when veering round from the
northward (as it invariably did) by the East, to tho southward and westward.
In Yedo Bay the moan temperature for the month of February was 46"^
Fahr., and tho apricot and cameliajaponicawero in full bloom. There were
but few fogs ; they commenced at Hakodadi about tho Ist June, but did not
extend as far southward as Simoda.

In tho months of August and September, 1H58 — tho period II.M.S. /'«-
r/o!*.? remained in Yedo Bay — heavy gales from tho E.N.E, shilting round
to the S.W., and increasing in force, were frequent. Winds from West,
round northerly, to E.N.E. generally brought fine weather, and rain when
between S.E. and S.W.

In 1801, from tho middle of Juno to the middle of September, there was
no gale in the Yodo Gulf, but much calm weather. Tho latter part of Sep-
tember was unsettled, with a moderate gale from S.S.W. A gale occurred
off the South coast, beginning with a light easterly wind and veering by
South, blowing hardest at S.W., and falling at a sudden shift to N.N.W.
October in the Kii channel was fine, northerly winds rather predominating,
and much calm weather.

From information obtained at Yedo, it appears the prevailing winds
throughout tho year aro to tho northward of East and West, and that those
to the southward generally bring bad weather ; always, however, causing
tho barometer to fall in sufficient time to enable a vessel to obtain a 60 or 80
miles offing, should she bo noir tho coast.

Off Yedo, in February 180;}, n.M.S. Swallow experienced a sharp, short
gale of ten hours duration, with littlo or no warning. Tho sky was very
clear, with steadily fulling barometer, and in two hours tho ship was reduced
to close-reefed main topsail, &c. Singularly clear weather is often a prog-
nostic of a coming gale, but the barometer is the unfailing sign.

Strong winds from the S.E. are generally accompanied with thick weather
and raiTi. At such a period it is rocommendod that a vessel bound to the
westward from Yedo should run through the chain of islands to the
southward of Vuu Diemon Strait, instead of passing through tho strait ;

^a^^rynsttr^

922 WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

for by taking this latter routo, and not making sufficient allowance for the
north-easterly current, she would in all probability find herself embayed on
a lee shore to the northward of Cape Chichakoff and possibly of Cape D'An-
ville (Toyi misaki).

During II.M.S. Saracen's surrey of the Sti-ait of Tsugar, May, June, July,
and August, 1855, the prevailing winds were from the South, with much
fine clear weather. The wind was less frequent from the N.W. than any
other quarter. Dense fogs prevailed in May and June ; after that period
they were comparatively rare.

The wind in shifting usually followed the course of the sun. After a
few days of light southerly wind and fine weati it freshened, and veered
to the westward, accompanied by fine clear and cold weather. At N.W. it
usually died away, or flew round suddenly to the eastward ; in the latter
case it was always followed by a dense fog or a gale ; the weather getting
fine again as the wind veered to the southward.

On the West coasts of Japan, including the Japan sea, Korea strait, and
the northern part of the Eastern sea, the weather is as follows:— In the
spring from about lilarch to June and sometimes in July, the winds are
almost constantly from the eastward, veering between N.E. and S.E. ;
moderate in force, with mist and rain and gloomy skies. It frequently
freshens up to a strong breeze, with squally weather generally from N.E.
Calms and light westerly winds occur in small proportion and bring beautiful
weather.

There are occasional strong gales, sometimes of five days' duration, tho
wind freshening up from the East (generally commencing from S.E.), with
falling barometer, and blowing with variable force for three or four days,
then chopping round suddenly to South, or veering to North and N.W.,
according to the quarter of the passing storm, when the gale attains its
maximum force, and blows itself out in a few hours or in one or two days,
according to the season. The barometer gives good warning. The gale al-
ways attains its height after the mercury has commenced to rise, and usually
blows with the greatest violence from the N.W. Small cyclones of short
duration are also known in Juno ; they travel northwards, but later in the
year between N.E. and East.

In summer, in the western part of the Japan sea, light easterly winds are
still predominant, with much fine weather and thick fogs, but much more
variable than in the spring, and subject to short, sharp breezes, veering
with the sun. Towards the end of August they altermate with westerly

breezes.

About the autumnal equinox, the weather breaks up between the parallels
of 41° and 46" N. In the middle of September 1859, a heavy cyclone was
experienced (exceeding 500 miles in diameter and progressing to the N.E.)

' '^ ^ m t mii i ^^' ^ ^ nmi^v *

■ ■ ^ ■ii" «!w» »;u»>yw iy .

■ vm^- g fflvu ' j - ' -W fi p r ' e. - yj ' F *^ - *"

■ ;wM f> w r»'iij tiw » yiwn.4. H ' gr -

WINDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

023

at St. Vladimir Bay and Hakodadi at the samo time, and was the heaviest
Btorm known at the former place for 40 years. Tliero occurred between
this and the middle of November twelve other galos, ten of which were
cyclones and two "blue north-westers," their force from 7 to 10, their
duration 2 to 4 days, with intervals seldom of more than tn-o or three
days' fine weatlier between them ; tlie nornml direction of tho wind was
from S.W. to N.W., with fresh and strong breezes.

Southward of ;5fi° North, November was fine with light N.E and N.W.
winds. The N.W. winds became prevalent towards the end of tho month.
At Hakodadi, they blow for four mouths. In 18o9, during the first eighteen
days of December, the wind remained between N.W. and W.S.W. almost
constantly, only veering occasionally as far as S.W. and North. Tlie weather
was fine when the wind was moderate, but very fresh breezes brought
rain or snow. The duration of the north-west winds in the South is un-
ce ain.

The Islands.
The various archipelagoes and detached islands of the North Pacific are
nearly all within the limits of the North-East Trade wind, and therefore the
peculiarities of their meteorology are very simply explained. But as some
of the chief of these groups, as the Hawaiian, the Marianas, and the Caro-
lines, lie on the northern, western, and southern limits respectively, it has
been argued, perhaps fallaciously, that all the islands have a marked effect
on the direction of the general wind. But when it is considered that the area
of these islands, mostly coralline atolls, is so infinitesimally small compared
with the area which surrounds them, it cannot be conceded that these minuto
specks on the surface of the great ocean can exercise much influence on the
great belt of the trade wind which blows over it.

Taking the Sandwich islands as an example, it is shown in the description
of that archipelago, pages 822, 823, that lying as they do just within the
northern tropic, the N.E. trade blows without much intermission for nine
months in the year, and that from December to January, that is when the
sun is in the highest southern latitude, they are interrupted, and that the
islands then are in the horse latitudes of the tropic of Cancer.

The Ladrone islands are also exceptionally place i. For hereabout is tho
division of the monsoon region and that of the N.E. trades. The S.W. mon-
soon evidently reaches the archipelago between the middle of June and the
middle of October, but is only violent and changeable for a few weeks in the
beginning or end of its season. During the middle, as in August and Sep-
tember, the air is calm and the heat almost unendurable. This subject is
further elucidated on pages 796-7.

The Caroline islands lie on the aouthorn verge of tho N.E. trades, and are

924

WINDS OP THE NOETH PACIFIC OCEAN.

[

subject to all the vicissitudes of the change of seasons. Mrs. Ouliek, ono
of a family to whom wo owo much of our knowledge of the islands of the
North Pacific, being the wife of a most zealous member of the Hawaiian
mission, kept a meteorological register for three years, 1853 — 5, at Ascen-
sion, and from the results tabulated on page 737, it will be seen that N.E.
trades are only interrupted between July and November, at the time when
this southern margin, following the sun in its course, passes to the north-
ward, leaving the archipelago in the belt of calms or " doldrums,' but
which have not the cliarncteristic usually attributed to this zone, as the
number of calm days is generally fewer than is found to be tho case in the
zones either North or South of them.

In tho descriptions of tho other group of islands will bo found many notices
of tho climate and winds, which will bo aulliciout to j;,; o an idea of this
simple subject.

Tho Monsoons of tho Western Pacific aro incidentally described in our
Directory for tho Indian Ocean, pages 29 — 6fi, and in that for the Indian
Archipelago, pages I to 25. To those works, which are connected with tho
present volume, the reader is referred for a concise account of their origin
and effect.

nUERICANES aro but little fc" in the open ocean in tJio North Pacific,
and do not difl"or in their phenomena from those experienced in other oceans.
It will be therefore needless to swell the bulk of this volume, already too
large, with a description of their well known features.

2. TIDES.

Except on the surrounding shores, where they exhibit similar plionomona
and magnitude to other parts of the world, tho tides of tho Pacific are insig-
nificant, and almost unuoticeable to the mariner. The tables which are
given hereafter contain the elements of the tides necessary to navigation ;
that is, the hour of high water, and the rise and fall of the tide, on the
coasts of America, Asia, &c. But in tho vast space between these two
boundaries the tidal wave is scarcely appreciable, except by refined ob-
servation, and can form but a small portion of tho actuating consideration in
navigation.

Under these circumstances wo deem it unnecessary to enter inio the genex'al
laws of tho tides as founded by the illustrious Newton, or the interesting
feuturoe elicited l/y tho discussion of the late liuv. i'rol'ossor Whuwoll uud

"^^""BmtnrK mHriJgi^i^H^l :

TIDES OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCEAN.

9'2,'

Sir John Lubbock. Tho present consideration, thoreforo, will bo confinoil
to the general view of the I'aciiic! tidos, aa sot forth hy tho lato Dr. Whowoll
to whom tho main foaturos of tho tidal laws, aa they aro now known, is
mainly owing.

The Eev. W. "Wiiewei.l on the Tideh of the Pacific.

I shall not attempt to dctormiuo tlio general courao of tho tidoa in tho
Pacific, but will remark that tho view now given of tho distribution of tlio
tidos in an ocean explains several of tho features of tho Pacific tides,
which were before very perplexing. If wo suppose an ocean tide, from
tho borders of which in'ocoed tidos having tlieir progress marked by cotidal
lines, we can easily draw tho linos so as to include tho following facts and
observations : —

1. Tho easterhj motion of the tide wavo around Capo Tlorn, Avhich is
established by Captain King's observations, and whicli is difficult to reconcile
with tho supposition of a tido revolving from West to Enst round tho South
pole. This is explained by its being a tido proceeding from an oceanic
tide.

2. Tho tide being at nearly the same hour along a large portion of tho
coast of South America, namely, from the Strait of Magalhaons for 20"
or 30° northward. This shows that the cotidal line is nearly parallel with
tho shore.

3. The very small tidos, or no tides, at tho islands in tho centre of tho
Pacific, Tahiti, and tho Sandwich islands. These belong to a central
portion of the ocean, whero tho rise and fall of tho surface nearly vanishes.

There are two sources of inaccuracy in tide observations, namely, the
want of a clear understanding as to the thing to be observed, and tho irre-
gularity and complexity of the facts themselves. With regard to tho former
point, I hope that several misaiiprehonsions, formerly prevalent among na-
vigators, aro now no longer common ; such as confounding the time of high
water with the time of the turn of the tide stream. But there is probably
still some unnecessary difficulty produced by regarding, as a cardinal point
iu observation, the " establishment," as vulgarly understood, namely, the
hour of high water on the day of now or full moon ; for, in fact, tho hour of
liigh water ou this day is of no more importance than tlie hour of high water
(m any other day, except in so far as it gives the means of knowing the hour
ou other days. And it does not ali'ord the means of doing this any more
than tlio hour of high water for any other given age of the moon does. For
iust as much inaccui-acy as, from whatever cause, there is in deducing ihe
time of high water at all ages of tho moon from the time at a given ago, just

926 TIDES OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN,

as much inaccumcy is thoro, from the same causes, in deducing the time of
high water for all ages of the moon, from the time for full or now moon.
And if the time at which the tide follows the moon on two or throo successive
occasions be greatly and irregularly dlfforcnt, the observations are equally of
little value, whether any of the observed tides fall on tho day of the new or
full moon, or do not. If the tides aro regular, and the observations good,
the common " establishment " may be obtained from the observations of any
one day ; although, to givo much value to this deduction, the tides should be
observed for a fortnight. And if such observations be made for a number of
very distant places, tho common "establishment" does not represent a cor-
responding fact at different places. In some places it means the time of
high water one day after tho highest tide ; in some, the tide two days after
the highest tide ; in some three days ; for the " age of tho tide " is different
at different places, and the tide which corresponds to the now or full moon
comes after tho new or full moon by one, two, or three days. Hence, in
order that we might compare the tides of distant places by means of a fact
which had the same meaning in all of them, I proposed, in a former essay,
instead of taking this common establishment, to take what I then called tho
corrected establishment, namely, the mean of all the lunitidal intervals, that is,
of the intervals by which the tide follows the moon's transit. In general,
the corrected establishment is about thirty minutes less than the common es-
tablishment. It has been used by Admiral Liitke, in his discussion of the
tides of the PaciGc. As the common establishment is still the one familiar
to navigators, and as no material error will result from the use of it, I shall
make it the basis of my remarks on the tides of the Pacific. It may be use-
ful to bear in mind what I have said, that this establishment may be de-
duced from observations not made at the new or full moon.*

I shall now proceed to give the tide hours for the coasts of the Pacific, ac
cording to the best accounts which I find, judging them in the manner I have
described. After noticing the course of the tide near Cape Horn, I shall
follow it along the whole western coast of America, till, in the North, we
reach the Aleutian islands ; and then, following this chain of islands, to
the shores of Kamtschatka. I shaU then consider the islands in the central
parts of the Pacific, and proceed from them westward, according to my
materials.

• I have here said that in cases where the tides follow the common laws wa may deduce
tho time of high water on one day from the time on another, I might have said the same
thing of the heights.

) time of
w moon,
luccossive
iqually of
e new or
ins good,
ns of any
should bo
lumber of
ont a cor-
e time of
lays after
3 different
full moon
Hence, in
of a fact
nor essay,
called tho
Is, that is,
a general,
ammon os-
ion of the
16 familiar
it, I shall
lay be use-
lay be de-
Pacific, ac-
mer I have
m, I shall
North, we
islands, to
the central
ling to my

a may deducfi
said the same

TIDES OF THE NORTH rAClFIC OCEAN.

West Coast of Nohtii Amehica.

887

Ijit.

North.

8 67

Panuma Buy

2Cii'0uu «

....

lahinil S. liticuH ....

9 m

lirftlojo , « ■ .

12 28

IG 60

Iklngdalena Buy ....

24 38

„ •• . •

....

Sun Bias

21 32

I» • »**•••

• • • •

»» • • . . • .

M nzntlan

Moiiterev •■■>>•••.•

36 36

San Francisco

37 48

»»

....

„ •■•■••

....

Port Bodega

38 19

Columbia Uiver

46 16

• • • •

Straits of Juan deFuca

Kootka Sound

49 36

• • • ■

F. Nicolaefsky (Cook's
Inlet)

60 15

Wiwt.

a. M.

o 18

h 42

6 48

6 39

7 28

7 1

7 10

8 6

8 II
8 16

9 2

10 6

Tiiiic
U.W.

IC. M.

3 20

3 36

2 41

3 6
8 30

7 37

8 S

9 41
9 60
9 42
9 62

12 30

10 62

10 33

11 41
1
1 30

12 30
10 40

12 33

3 49

(Ircinw

'i'lllll!.

II.

20
44

6 42

9 35

1 55

itix

FEST

13
15

6
6

2
6

8
12

Authority.

Lloyd, riiil. Trans.,

1«:)0.
K.'llott.

Sir E. Bclehur.

FitzHoy.

Sir K. i!(!l(:her.

Sir K. Belcher. Gn.iit
irroituliiritiuii.

Sir E. Bolchor.

Du Petit Thou.ars.

Sir K. Bolchor. Very
iinomiilouM.

Du Petit Thouars.

Mem. on S. America.

FitzRoy.

Bocchoy.

Boechey.

Bo(>chcy.

Du Petit Thouars.

!Sir E. Belclior. Very
arionnftlouH.
Diurnal iiioqualify,
H.W.&L.W. largo
in ht. and times.

Boechey & Malaspina.

Russian nav. (Lutko's
notice).

Russian navigators.

Sir E. Belcher.

Vancouver.

Kellett.

Sir E. Belcher. Great
diurnal inequilities,

Lutke.

Wrangell.

From this point the coast turns westward, and the stations are arranged
according to longitude, without regard to their latitude.

TIDES OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCEAN.

l,nt.

North

Amtrifiin Ciintt.

F. Nicoliii'Wty (Cook'c
Ink't)

llarlKiiir of St. ruiil
(Kadiiick r-liiinl) ..

Harbour 3 Hi(rar(|. ..

Nuuehagiik lluy ....

Ahutinit Uku.

St. I'aiil Island

Alklia iHlinil

At'"" Island

Kamtsrhaika.
IVtropaulovski ......

/)7
AT

.OS

8
31

Ul 10

53 1

T-onR.
NV.'Ht.

Tinin
11. W.

II. M. 11. M.

10 G 3 19

10 8
10 12

30
10

10 31 2 It

11 20 3 47

11 30 { 20

12 2S e 48

13 20

3 38
3 43

3 64

(Iro

•nw.

Titno.

II.

6.3

. •

• •

IlilO.

10
10
12

Authority.

WranRoll.

KuHsiim naviu'iitorM.
IviiNHiuii iiavi^atui'M.
Wrannull.

UusHian niivluatorM.
I K\i><Mi:iii navii^ator.s,
) doubtful.

I-iitkn, in 1827.
Lutkc, in 1828. Diur-
nal incM]ualiti('s.
Du Petit Thouurs.

Looking at tho poncral nHsorablnpo of tlio numbers which occur in tlio
column ninrko(l <• GroonwicK time," it is evident that tho tide wave of tho
liour 8, which is at Oocos island and Iho Oalapnf^os about oi^lit o'ehak,
como8 to tho continent atNicoya and Tvoalojo, about 10= and 12^ North hit.,
at about threo-([uartorH of an hour later; while tho tide is at hours later
than this, both to tho northward and the southward. Troceeding first south-
ward, wo liud tl.u line of 11 not far from Cnllao, that of z near Coquirabo or
Valparaiso, and that of 3.i near Valdivia ; and farther South wo have the
line of 5 Pt Chiloe, and of 6 at Cape Tillar ; whence tho wave moves to tho
eastward, round Cape Horn, as already stated. Considering these ^K)ints as
fixed, it is easy to interpolate the other cotidal lines along this coast. Tho
observed hour at Guayaquil it later than its position would give, a result
which we should expect, since tho tide will occupy some time in travelling
\ ip the gulf in which C uayaquil is situated.

Again, proceeding from Nicoya and Realejo, to the northward, we find a
like progression of tide hours. The line 10 is not far from Acapulco, accord-
ing to the data hare collected. But the tide at Acapulco is small, and henco
the accuracy of the result }a doubtful. Perhaps the smallness of the tide is
an indication tliat the point of divergence of tho tide wave, which occurs on
this part of thfy American coast, is not far from Acapulco. It appears that
the line of 3 pisses near San Bias, and also near the Bay of S. Magdalona,
on the coast of California. At Mazatlan, somewhat within the Gulf of Cali-
fornia, !,he time in an hour or two later, as wo should expect. When we
reach Monterey and San Francisco the hour is about 6, according to Captain
Beochey's observations. The more recent ones a'i-e too anomalous to proiued
upon. At Tort Bodega, in lat. 38", wo have tiio 8 tide line ; and at Nootka

TIDES 01' TIIH NOltTIl TACIFIC OCIIAN.

nsn

Sound, Cook's obHorvatory, which givo 1'-.''' HO"' (whonno (Jroonwich IX n('nrl,v\
nro contirmod by Cdittain Kollott's obMorviitionH in tho Ktmits of Do Funi,
Poutli of Vaneouvor's island. The noxt point is tlio liuMsinn Rottlemont,
Now Arclmngol, in tlio ishind of Sitkii, whore tho tidos exhibit very tnirious
foaturen, ns I have ulroiidy Htatod from tho observatiooB cf Admiral liiitkc,
and, as I find, further (jonfirmod by tho observations of Sir Edward iJolcliur.
Thu lino bolouging to Sitka appoarH to bo 12}.

From thiw point we dopond upon lluBsian obsorvations, whirh aro givon
by Admiral Liitko in his "Notice." Tho.so enable us to see that tlio cotiJiil
linos bend, us usual, deep into the head of tho bay in whi<li is Cook's Uivor
(Inlet), in lat. CO". T'ho coast hero trends to tho West, and the wave follows
it, and pursues its course along tho chain of the Alf'tiuii islands, where it
is traced by Admiral Liitke and the navigators of the liusso-Americau (Joiii-
pany. It appears that tho linos of 11, 12, 1, 2, fall noar this chain, and that
the line of 5 is noar the coast of Kamchatka. It is not diilicuU to arranjjo
the cotidal lines so as to conform to those data.

Admiral Liitko has observed the tides at other places on tho Asiatic coast,
as far North as 65°, but I shall not attempt to arrange them.

Our next attempt must bo to arrange the tides of tho oceanic isles of tho
North I'acific.

IsLK.S oi- Tiir. NollTIl rAfii'ir.

Lilt.
North.

Sandirich hies. I "
Honolulu 21

Caroline Islet.
Uulnn '

Liidroiic hies.

Oiiahan

lionin laloii ....

13
20

Loo-Choo Isles 1 20

S;iud Isle, Samboauga

Basliet Group.

liatan Island

Coroan AroLipulago

rivtchusan ..
Hong Kong

22
34

Amoy Harbour 24

Siintubon 1

5 15

32
62

30
65

Lonff.

Wost.

Timo
II. W.

11. M.

10 32

3 35

13 7

3 35

14 20
14 29

15"28
16 62

8 23
6 43
6 3

6 28

7 36

15 60
15 61

4"49

15 41

6 36

10 23

9 37

16 8
16 39

12 62
4 21

Orpcnw,
Time,

Ili.sn.

11. M. FEET.

2 7 2

4 42

10 43
12

9 "fi6

11 28

8 40

10 17

18
12

Autlioiity.

Du Pot it Thouar.s.

Liitke.

Frcj'C'inct.

Lutke.

Heochoy.

Hoochoy.

Sir E. Belclior.

Sir E. liflchnr.

Sir E. Uuloher. Ano-
malous.

Sir E. IJolohor. Piurn.
ini'iiualilio.'s.

SirE. Itolcher. Diurn.
ine(|ualitios.

Oaptiiiii 11. Sniitli.

Sir E. DBlcher.

North Facifiv.

9,10 TTDES OT' THE NORTH PACIFTC^ OOEAN.

Tlipso observations appoar to imply a goiioml motion wostward of the tidal
M-avo ; but I eonccivo that thoy aro munh too far and too unconnected to
justify mo in drawing cotidal linos; bosidos which, the smallness of tlie
tideain tho central parts of the ocean makes the observations more than
usually doubtful, and is accompanied by some circumstances inconsistent
with the notion of a simple progressive wave as tho representation of the
tidal phenomena of those seas. I will consider those circumstances for a
moment.

Tides of ihc Central Pacific.
The tides over a great portion of the central part of the Tacific are so small
that we may consider tho lunar tide as almost vanishing. Thus, at Ban
Island, it is stated as only 1 foot ; at Tahiti it is hardly more ; at the Sand-
wich islands it is 2 feet; and ovon at New Ireland, where we are no longer
in the central space, but among tho larger islands to tho West of it, tho tide
is only about 2 feet. Hut moreover, at some at least of these places, the
tide, small as it is, is not the lunar tide following tho usual laws. At Tahiti
for instance, the time of liigh water appears never to deviate from noon by
more than a certain difference, although Sir Edward Belcher has shown that
it varies from about a.m. to 3 p.m. At Bau island there appears reason
to believe that the limits are much the same ; and perhaps at Carteret's
harbour, in Now Ireland. Now it will be easily seen that such a result as
this would follow if we were to suppose tho tidal influence of the sun and
of the laoon to bo equal. On this supposition it is plain that the high water
would always occur halfway between the sun's transit and the moon's
transit. Hence at new moon the high water would bo at noon ; as the moon
went away to the eastward of the sun, the tide would be later and smaller ;
till, when the moon was six hours' distance from the sun, the tide would bo
at 3'', but would in fact vanish. After this point the tide would re-appear
at 9 a.m., or a little later, tho inferior transit of the moon now taking tho
place of tho superior one in determining the tide ; and from this time the
tide would be gradually later and larger till at full moon it would be again
at noon ; and so on. This appears to agree pretty well with the phenomena
of the tides at Tahiti, as determined by Sir E. Belcher.

A more minute cyamination of th.e tides in these regions will enable us to
pronounce more decidedly whether the law of the phenomena is that which
has been just stated. And if it appears that the phenomena do follow this
law, wo shall have further to consider how such a motion of the sea in those
parts is to bo combined with tlie very different movements which occur in
other places, and what is the general movement of tlie ocean which they in-
dicate ; whether, for instance, they are best explained by looking upon the
lunar and solar parts of the tide, as produced by two separate waves, which
may increase and diminish separately, and may start from diiierent epochs

|*■s ^ l M l - w ^ l W^ l .u^ft ^^ ^> *' ^^J^W I»T»f^^«^;^^J<.ry'^.^sn^rv^*rgwqTl*J''^yT^'W'?*^•Vr^j^.>

ard of the tidal
unconnected to
mllness of tlio
rions more tlian
ces inconsistont
ontation of tlio
imstancca lor a

01 fie aro so small
Thus, at Bau
1 ; at the Sand-
e aro no longer
st of it, tho tide
liese places, the
aws. At Tahiti

from noon hy
r has shown that

appears reason
ips at Carteret's
mch a result as

of the sun and
it the high water

and tho moon's
)on ; as the moon
iter and smaller ;
le tide would bo
would re-appear

now taking the
)m this time the
; woukl he again
h the phenomena

1 will enable us to
na h that which
ma do follow this
f the sea in those
,s which occur in
ui which they in-
looking upon the
,rato waves, which
n ditlerent epochs

TIDES OP THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

9.31

in their motions. I shall not now pursue this point further; nor aliall I fur-
ther examine liow far the phenomena approach to tlio cases of fluid motion
already described, in which there is a marked wave at tho outskirts of tlie
mass, and an approximate quiescence of the surface in tho central parts ;
namely, the case of a stationary undulation, and of a revolving undulation,
or rather a revolving cotidal line. I may remark, however, that the latter
supposition, that of a revolving undulation, by which the tide is carried from
California uorthwards along the American shore, and to the coast of Kam-
chatka, while the cotidal lines converge to some central point in tlio
North Pacific, would explain the small ness of tho tides at tho Sandwich
islands.

Tho foregoing is that portion of Professor Whewell's important scientific
contribution which refers to the North Pacific. Although somo minor details
may be modified by more recent observations, still, as the arguments are
based on correct data, the conclusions remain unimpeachable. We have,
therefore, deemed it right to repeat them in the present edition.

The following Tide I'ahle is derived from the Admiralty lists, drawn up
by Commander Burdwood, E.N., and give all that is nocossary for tho
navigator.

TIDE TABLE.

Place.

High

Wiitor,
Full and
Change.

II. M.

3 40

3 60

4
4
3 23
3 10
3 15

3 9
3 8f
3 C

3 15
2 25

Riao.
Springs

Place.

High

Water,
Full and
Change.

H. M.

1 30
3 15
3 6

9 41
9 40

9 20
7 I'o
9 5
9 10 f
9 20;

Riso.
Springs

Central America, West
Const.

FT.

IG
16
14
15—22
12
lOJ

10?

11
10!

Mexico, West Coast,
Port Guatulco , . , ,

FT.

ChfiDo River.

Port Sacrificios

Acapulco

(i
11

Todro Gronzdles (Trapichi
Island) , . . .

Perula Ray

San Bias ,

Ch.ime Bay •■...

Mazatlan

l."

Kahoga

Guaynias Harbour

California and Washinffiov
Territoriei.

San Lucas Bay ,..,»,,,
Magdalena Bay .,..,...

Port San Quentin

Port San Bartolome ....
I'laya Maria Bay

I'anama Road

]'ort Nuevo

I'arida Island

Niooya Gulf (Port Ilon-a-
duia)

Port San Juan del Sur . ,

Port Roalejo , ,

Port la IJnion, Gulf of
Fonsoca

7—9?

Acujutla Road

7—9?

3o2

932

TIDES IN THE NORTH rACIFlC OCEAN.

I'lliCt-.

HiKh

Wiit.r,
Full nnti
Cliaugo.

nerroH Island '. '■> 10

Sta. Barbitriv Lslund . . . . i 8

ISan IMpgo lUy I ^' 3^,,

San Jnan Anrhoraf;(,' .. ..| 9 '0''

Sun l'(:(lro Anchora'.;o ..[ 9 4ii
San Mi{ni(.i (Guyiii- Har-

boiir) , ! ■' -"

San Rosa Island 9 !«•:

Santa Catalina Mand ..i 9 'So':

Santa Cru/. [flaiid i 9 35 r

Sai. Luis Obisjio j 10 **

Moiitoroy I 10 2'2

Soulh FiiralKm I 10 37

San Francisco, North |

Beach | 12 C<

Drakes Bay | H ''^

Bodega Port , I U H

iiiirolKildt Bay 12 2

PortOitbrd I U 2r)

Columbia Uivor uutranccj 15

Astoria ' 42

Nt't'-!ih Harbour 12 33

i'ort To wnshend ] 3 49

Fort Steilacoom | 4 -I'J

.British Coiumhia nnd Vau-i
coHver Island.

Sooke Harbour i 2

J'.squimall Harbour* ....

V i';toria Harbour*

Rocho Harbour, Haro

Strait

Port Disoovei-y

Nisqually, Tuget Sound . .
Drayton Harbour, Seniiah-

moo Bay

Frasor Uivor (ontraune) . .
liurrard Inlet, Gidt of

Georgia fi

riumpcr Cove, Howel

S'>und j n

Port Glares I ti

St\iart Ciiannol (Cowit-j

thin Harliour

Nanaimo Harbour, Gulll

of Georgia | ^

KanooBO Harbour, Vai;-;

couvor Island | 5

I'ender Harbour, Strait ofj

Georgia , , 6

Port Augusta | ^

Placti.

High

Wat.'r,
Fidl and
Change.

Hernando Island, Strait

of Georgia

Rendezvous Islands ....

Stuart Island

W'addington llarb., Bute

Inlet ;.

GowUund Harbour, Dis-
covery Passage

Seymour Nan-ows ......

Cameleon Harbour, No-
dales Channel ........

Forward Harbour

Beaver Creek, Loughbo-

rough Inlet

Knox Bay

I'ort Neville

Beaver Cove

Alert Bay, Cormorant

I4and

Nimpkish River

Beaver Harliour ,

Sbushartio Biy

Bull Harbour, Goletas

Channel

Deep Harbour, Fife; Sound
CuUen Harbour „
Qualsmo Sound, Vancou-
ver Island

Klaskino Inlet

Klaskish Inlet

Nasparte Inlet i

Ou-Ou-Kinsh Inlet

Kyuquot Sound, Vancou-
ver Island

Esperanza Inlet, A'uncou-

ver Island

iNuchailitz Inlet, Vancou-

I ver Island

|Nootka Sound, Vancouver

I Island

|Barclay Sound

lOlayoquot Sound

H. M.

3
3

10— 12i!

I Alantha, or Knrth-wesl
\\ Anwriia.

Duncan Bay, Chatham
Sound

Pott Kupi t

Fort Simp,son

Portland Inlet (Salmon
(!;ove , ,

Sitkut

12
12

12
12
12

llise.
Springs

r\\

12- It
II
12-14

II
11

i<;

lf>
10
17
1..

lo
M

'•■'i
12

40
3d

;)4

121

11)
U)

12
M
12
12

12
12
12

21
13
21i

* 3Iay to October, from midnight to 3 a.m. November to April from noon io 3 p.m.

t The rise at Sitka as given by Commaudnr Pearce, H.M.S. Ai!:i-t, in his remarks in
ISfiO does not exceed 7 feet, but on the authority of Commander Pike, H.'JI.S. HcMilalwi,
(1S62), the local pilots say that the rise soiiKnimcs ia as much as 16 feet.

'^'' Mi 1I IB^V l L ' iP >» .iV^V.iKltl »ri^ff^^>'^^''

inflWR^aWtrvtTK^Sw'R"'

lish

Vill.T,

IliM'.

ill ilinl

Spviiii;^

Imngf.

H. M.

IT.

12- M

12- It

i;i

i<;

i(i

17
1..

1^^

•■2U

— (

noon to 3 p.m.
in Lis reumiks in

L'JI.S. Hil-dilltltUII

TIDES IN THE N(.»RTTT PAriFIO OrEAN.

P.T'?

I'lace.

HchrinK Kiiy ....

I'ort Ktches

Tort Chalmrrs...,
I'ort Chatliam ....
Oiinalashkii Island
Oiipo Koshnoff ....
Oood-nows Bay . .

(Jolovnin Bay

I'orl Clari'nco ....
( 'hamisso Island , .
I'oint ]5arrow . . ..,

Kamfhatka.
Avatcha Bay ....

Oltlf of Tartanj.

Cape Maria (Sakhalin Id.)

Soa of Okhotsk

Amur Strait

.lon(]uier(3 Bay (E. coast)

( -aNtrio.s Hay

Biirracoutu Harhoiir ....
I'ort Michaol Seymour . .
Napoloon Road (W. coast)
S^. Vladimir Hay

Japan.

Nagasaki Bay (Nipon, S
Coast)

Tama no lira Harbour,
Goto Island

Iki

'I'su-sima Sound ......

Simonoscki

Hi-h

Water,

Uisu.

Full and

Springs

Change.

K. M.

KT.

1 15

13-;

7 30

15'

6 15

131

fi 23

4 25

4 42

11 45

5-1

3 30

6-1

11 40

5-6

10 30

5 30

2 30

irr.

7 15

6-8

8 30

S.ado (Yi'hisu)

Tsuifar Strait

Iliikodadi Harbour, Yo/.i

Mi.nd

Knili'rmo Harbour, Yw/.i

Island

La I'l'rouso Strait

Voku-liama, Yodo Bay . .

Tatiyania Bay

''atsizio

! I'ort Simoda

Ih-daBay

Kuora Bay

Simidsu

Urakami

< liisima

Tanalpc' Ki Channel . . . .

I'ranouchi

Osaki

Ilio^'o and Citrvi Biiys . .
t lilsaka Kivor (ontranco) , .

I ttisaka City

Kata Channel ,,....,.,.

Vara Harbour

Naruto (Fukura)

.Akasi

Awasima (Inland Sua) ..
I'omo (Seto-uchi)

Islands.

Karakakoa Bay, Clwyhor
Honolulu, Sandwich Ids
I'ouinipet Island, Caroline

Islands

Saipan Island (Ladrone

Inlands)

I'elow Islands

««9Wl'31«?KJSa?,'R

Hi-h
Wat.r,
l''ull and
Chango.

11. M.

5
5

5 31)
10 30

5 5(1

7 31)
7 30
() 50

5 ^)'>
7 15
7 30
H 17
4
5
17

(1 36
14

11 o:'

3 4!)

6 45

Hise.
Springs

6
ti

';-'

5
5
3-5
5!
4"
7

ti
5
rt

" »

( 934

3, CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

We have in many places in the other volumes of ^hio series described the
general system of ol'an currents, and the causes which set them m mot^«;
L far as is known, that but little need be said here -/^^ ^^f '^^^^
North Pacific is the most simple in the arrangement of its currents. It is a
b^n o! dfculation, around a'central area, lying ^lo^^ ^he tropi. ana o^^^^^
to the Sargasso Seain the North Atlantic, and having the same feature of a
broad equLrial stream setting westward, -^^-<^y^'^^\^^r^ ^^
tween 8° or 10° North and the tropic, a reverting and strongly marked cur
InTthe Japanese current similar to the Gulf Stream, and a broad extra-
tropical belt setting generally eastward, but subject to much fluctuation.

Tt the North ladfic differs from the North Atlantic in -t -countering
any arctic influences. Behring Strait is too narrow and shallow to aUow
either the waters of the Pacific to flow into the Arctic basin, as is the case
: th the warmer waters along the western coast of Europe. «' *« per- Uh^
ice bearing streams from the polar basin to flow down to the Pacific, a^
does the Labrador current. These varied changes are almost inappreciable

""There is some evidence of this in comparing the «P-f •'^^^^y/'j^;^^
ocean (which comparison however cannot be said to be defi-^-e, - he
North Atlantic has had much more extended observation bestowed on xt )
fhe mean specific gravity of the North AUantic being 1. 2664 while the
North Pacific, retaining its own vapours, so to speak, is 1 -02048. _

aLs bee; stated in a former page (906), the area of the Pacific is so
great that the forces which act upon the waters of the smaller oceans, ^e
Itlantic and Indian Oceans, exert a much more marked effect on them than
they do on the cun-ents of the Pacific. It is the same with the winds, and
th^ its meteorology exhibits but few of those grander ^-turos which
■ may be found elsewhere, and pre-eminently characterise it as the Pacific

X\is account the ocean currents are of less importance to the navigator
except in a few regions, such as near the Gulf of Panama, the coast of
Melo or the southward of Japan. Elsewhere they seem to exert no

• There is another element of faUaey in those observations for specific gravity They
are frc^ltly. perhaps generally, taken near the surface, or in that film of oc^n water mos
rbferfluctuln from evaporation or deposition. If a uniform series of observa ion,
11 at a depth of say 50 fathoms, below all local disturbance, ,t may be predicted
That ttr^^U be found the greatest uniformity in the constitution of ocean water all over
the globe.

OCEAN.

8 described the
iom in motion,
subject. The
rrents. It is a
opic, analogotia
mo feature of a
constancy, be-
ly marked cur-
a broad extra-
fluctuation,
lot encountering
hallow to allow
in, as is the case
or to permit the
, the Pacific, as
ist inappreciable

gravity of each
definitive, as the
bestowed on it*),
02664, while the
1.02548.

the Pacific is so
nailer oceans, the
feet on them than
;h the winds, and
er features which

as the " Pacific"

ce to the navigator
lama, the coast of
seem to exert no

peciflc gravity. They
Im of ocean water most
series of observations
e, it may bo predicted
)f ooeiin wuttr all over

isr.

IM>

ir,:,

111

r^pdi'-''-

'Kidiark

r* '*«f» JL .«• irf-"-''!.-./

-^4.

'^•^ '

'"•■.HI

nuivci'n m I ■ Pttu-I K '

KnumttUrn A*

>■».•*»»/

f Mftxiana *
•■Lailronrl*

;u,5A!«l>WlrH !•

P«'" tnlawaii

I.- ,( I / . / /

^aJnv^'iu I *

Out*t»naf I.

a •4«<"> '

aTl4 ^ f • *■ •• a

*>«*i*„

,.^

fii/rfii/i- /.

V'«..,„-/

..i'*

^^SAiiiiuttoii

^'^*-

f/ fKTis/ham /'

_•- -

urkUiii<il'«t

.lan,p*rll /.

^.l/i/<VJ'<i'7« /

t r.

i^o

. trrrT -^n- fr , -7i-i-Ti , ■ yr .

\i!>

-J- .,.*•*»-•.

ISO

"^^

■ T^-r-rT'- ■ ■ ..

lAO

iftj

IM)

ITBUISHF.n HY K.lll.AI'Rlfc <'S Kl

.jriii»«iai« i ri ii M ii r »i» ri i i' « *i i i iii i ii |}ll i M i ' lli " i f i T i l . .

PCBLISHF.n HY H.Ml.ArRlb-..t*.3.KI.KFT STRIKT l.t>M"N.

fdjiiii'— iiiwaw

I r iti r

THE NORTH EQITATORIAL CUl'.KHNT.

•J35

very definite iufluouce on a aUip's courso. Wliut follows ia chiolly from our
lirst edition.

THE NORTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT.

The Northern Equatorial Current extending to the moun latitude of '21 '
North, is subject to the variations oxporiouccd in the southern portion of this
extensive drift.

In its eastern portion there is no well-marked origin, as is the cnso in tlio
Peruvian current flowing to the N.W. and westward at the Oulupagos
islands. On the contrary, as is elsewhere remarked, the Moxiciin coast cur-
rents are comparatively weak and undecided, so that there is Kuine source
from whence the westward tendency of the ocean is derived, beyond the ap-
parent effects of the trade-wind and the action of the suns' heat.

Whether it is the efl'ect of heat, or from the continued action of tlio trade
winds, one fact seems to be tolerably well detorminoil, and that is, in tho
circulation of the oceanic waters around their respective basins, tlio greatest
velocity or force of the currents is at their outer limits; tliis force gradually
diminishes within the area, and leaves a space not acted on. by the circida-
tory movement, and which area, by analogy, wo should oxpoct to find of a
higher temperature than might be calculated on if the polar streams should
not add their lowering influence. Following this theory wo must expect to
find them in greater force nearer the equator, a fact apparently established.
And in the central portion of the North PacKio there does not appear to
be any regularity of the set of the waters, and tlie limit before assigned may
even be too high, as the Sandwich islands, in lat. 20', do not appear to bo
surrounded by any permanent current.

The following remarks by Captain Wilkes is confirmatory of this ; — Al'tor
passing the parallel of 10^ N. wo began to feel the effects of tho current that
is ascribed to the influence of the trade winds, and this continued without
much diminution of strength until we lost the trades in lat. 19° N. Tlio
drift of this current was 271 miles in a direction S. 7;/^ W."— Vol. v.,

p. 476.

Captain Wilkes continues:—" At the Sandwich islands I am not disposed
to tliink, from any observations I had an opportunity of making, that there
are any regular currents, or any set of the waters, except what is caused by
the winds. There is, in fact, rarely any difiiculty in beating to windward ;
the time of passing between the islands is about the same at all seasons of
the year ; and I found none in beating np to my port in any reasonalilo tinio
after falling to leeward of it. Their position is assimilated to St. Helena.
The temperature of the waters around those islands is about the same as that
which prevails in tho ocean in tho neighbourliood, a fact which I consider to
bo a proof that no polar cuirtut roaches them." Tlio circumstance of pino

»ao cmaivms of the noktu I'Acifio ocean.

,.w.o.« a.r.ao„ to the e„. .a -^^t'r:':^:: -i-

.ouUl almo«t prove, ^ona a do„1^.^ h^^

to tho 8outli-oa8t from the coast of ^'"""7' ^' j,^ j^ ^,, ^posite di-

camo from ; but another .ircumstance, e.iually conclu«.ve in 1 1

cammed them, but h.wns drifte.1 through thorn by .o Ktnmg
tho Wert, th,it he .:ouVl not r,«vot hi. position.

The cu^iit. .t tho M„..n.» .™ aW .iibioe. ;«--- -" ..^"S
Oolownin mot .i.h a rapid can^at, k""™" '" "^^Z^; „ .i,^,„ ™„eat
hie. fro» that .natto. am, a f ^^ ;2;^;:7r,:.te.,y mo„.»n.
geaerally flow- »t this r«"- " '" f , ,. „, ,„„ .„ ,he middle of
'hi,.,, i. tolt a. the Mamaa., ftom tho ""l^ ' <■ ;'/™, ° * ,^„ „^J
October, aecordiag to Freycinot, may oa«.e » rovereion

'Cia Marehaad, ia L. S.,.. .Hea to tiio eastward oT Tiai», in Icng.
,.,. l: to U. a., o.>c-,a.ed thaUie ,,ad een »t ^^^^^ „,

ward In 48 hours; tlus was on Nov. 2 1, i/Ji- ^

"re:l::;:B^^IL,oondt,io..ent»..™ng.o.^^^^^^^^^^
woatwaxd, to the N.E. of the Manaaa ,.,and,.-(Vol. v, p. 2f 8.)

rr :rL<r-tL^ - .— *» e-er,y .d nor«.^.er,y

Ctt,c;e::::n:ir:?;--"e^

f nd for t^.e whalo, were found on the verge of the trade, m lat. 26 N..
rnrtetwtetade having failed a degree to the southward. Aga.n
long. 168 VV.,tneira u„„n«t 30^ N lonff. 180°, vast quantities of

when the Expedition was in about lat 30 «•' 1«"S- ^

anatifa, another mollusc, were found to he in a W.S.W. and i..^.

''" hTs^IlgeL'^^^^^^^ their locality would certainly appear to indicate some
V influence of current. The temperature of the adjacent water is not

'':tr'^:^^7o^^. that some variation would have been found to the
rh;ard Ind southward of this line of zoophytes. We have not .atenals

:: reJth plue this subject further; nor have we any distinct not.on o

;: t of theLrents. if any. to the westward o the M-J- But it .

lertain that the eciuatoiial current reappears m the forni ot a .aim iN

Kii.^

"^Tffi

1 page bo'2,
), at timos,
npparontly
jppoHite di-
lls, between
B tt-^ee pro-
, regularity,

ndod to have
a current to

ons. Captain
jrh the wind
niilar current
rly monsoon,
he middle of
if tho usual

Inian, in long.
3 to the east-
u's Voyage of

lorthward and
8.)

rs, as Captain
might look for
north-easterly
According to
of which serves
, in lat. 26° N.,
iward. Again,
ist quantities of
1 E.N.E. direc-

to indicate some
cent water is not
on found to the
ivo not :iiaterinls
listinct notion of
anas. But it is
)i a warm N.E.

THE EUUATOiaAL COUNTER CUKUENT. 987

current to the South of tho Japanese Archipelago, the progress of which will
bo presently traced.

THE EQUATORIAL COUNTER CUREENT.

In our general remarks on tho winds on page U08, it is said that in tlio
uorial systems of the Pacific, as elsewhere, thoro was a space between tho
two great bolts called the N.E. and S.E. trado winds, in wh-ch the wind was
variable ami light, and in which calms and rains prevailed. This zone of
variable winds, as they are known, is aifocted, in their breadth and latitude,
by tho annual progress of the sun in tlie ecliptic.

In the current systems wo have a precisely analogous phenomenon— that
of a body of water moving with more or less regularity to tho eastward,
bounded to tho North and South by currents moving in the opposite direc-
tion. Tills counter current has been traced, with considerable certainty,
noiirly across the entire breadth of the Pacific : and the ensuing extracts
will explain its character. The first is the observation made by Captain
Liitko, in his traverse in the Seniavine,

After crossing the parallel of 30^ in long. 81°, we had for forty-eight hours,
and during light winds and calms, a weak current between N. and N.W. ;
and then for a fortnight, from lat. 28° S., and long 116", that is for a space
of 2,400 Italian miles, we scarcely felt any current at all. In lat. 26° we
had a S.E. wind, which passed insensibly to the condition of a true trade-
wind, and which oven sometimes blew freshly, but all this did not produce
any current ; during two or three different days we had a weak current to
the West, following the wind, and for as many days returning against the
wind. In the course of this fortnight the difference between this estimated
longitude and that by the chronometer did not exceed 20', and there was none

in latitude.

Between lat. 10° and 2° S., there was for four days, during which the
trade wind, without blowing strongly, was constant and equal, a tolerably
strong westerly current, the mean velocity of which to tho West by North
was 1.7 miles in 24 hours.

In lat. 2° South, the trade wind left us, and tho current shifted also
to the East, then to N.E., and again to S.E., but more to this last quarter
as far as 8° or 10° North latitude, where the N.E. trade stopped it. Tho
mean effect of this current was East 6° South, 12^ miles in twenty-four

hours.

For the sixteen days that the current just spoken of lasted, there were but
two which showed any exception, but to compensate they were very
striking; this was between lat. 1° and 4° N., where the currents drifted
us, in forty-eight hours, 75 miles directly to tho N.W., in extremely light
airs between East and S.E., and sumotiines during almost an entire calm.

til

Mil im I III 1 1' 'i"i**

i»iB.'.-

^y^^v ■r.,:.^km^:d^^.-J':>^'v:>^ '

„„ CURIiFOTS OF THE NOUTII VACIFIO OCRVN.

r,,fc», .e t..«na » S.E. curront m 'f ^ "f ' ,L toward the N. boy...,.l

Botwcn .he.c p.r,U.ol., .ml »■ ^ . loj •« L ^^^^^__^^^^ ,^,_,

.,,.„ too wool.. (!» '""""'J;'' 7 1* "° 'rtho ol..m moic, ot U,i. -paoc,
.„.,. .0 .ho Ea.,, inoW^ne to . . 8out m .ho c __^ _ ^ ^^.^

the 24 hours to tho E. by N^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^j ^^ ,jo^ i„ i.,„g.

Wo had no sooner passed to tho JNorui i ^^^ ^^^^^^^

,,,oE.. than .e.ot into a stron, curront to th^e^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^

us after^vards. To tho West of 52 K w ^ .^ ^^^^ ^ ^ ,.

South of the parallel of r from tl. th t the ^^,^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^

ireSy tf S.W buUhen once, in lat. 3^ the current was to the K

xuiles in '24 hours. ^^^^^^^ ^^stcrly currents, us

A zone of easterly currents, totween ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^,,.

,011 in the .ostorn as in the -*- ^^;; //^^^^^^^^^ f.,u„d it n.ore to tho
tieod by other navigat..s. ^^^^^^^o An-hipelago. Captain Da-
South than wo did. in tho '-- "^^^^^^^^^ ,^ ,,. ^Lt of Ualan, had cur-
perroy, between lat. 2^ and « f J ^^ ^ ^,,.,^, ,,« ..t island, they wore
rents to the S.E. ^'''^^•^■'^,Zj\^^ enuutor and 8^^ N., and long.

^^'^ --' \ IH^'e'-Jo S^dTLori; cLnts. Admiral Krusenste.
148^ E. and 137 E". ^o roto ^.^idionally. at the equator, and the

places the limits of this East curren , ^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^,^

parall'^l of r ; from Pur expor.en e, these m ^ ^, ^^^^^^

Lg. 163»E. wo had -'^^^\^''IJ^,^^:;^ 20' and 4= N.. and l,ng.
strong East currents between^ oj^>^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^,^^ .^^^^.^ .,,,„,,

149^ and 144^ W. ^'f 7^;;;^;^;, , ,,, equator and r N., where ho got
to the Sandwich f "^^ a NNE current. tL mean activity of which was
into the N.E. trade wind a iN.i . .^ ^^^^ ^,^^^^^.^^ „,erchant.

,8 miles in twenty-four horn.. ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^.^^ ^,,,,,,, Uie parallels of

%^"::^t:^r::;ong - .d .. - — ^^^^

THE FXiUATORIAI. COUNTKU CUJiUKNT.

•i;i',»

)lo wiiitlrt
ho nei^h-
:onntiuitly
islund i)t'
tho W.'Ht
^. boyoii'l
,at of sr-
!0 of more
•rents, but
this npiuso,
tion to this
oiivliooil of
Inrity of the

i", in long,
id not loiivo
once to tlio
in long M*^
tho South of
tho current
I) tho E. 13

currents, as
ilso boun no-
t more to tho
Captiiiu Dii-
lan, had cur-
;»d, they wcro
ti., and long,
il Krusenstorn
Ltttor, and tho
', although in
rcycinot found
N., and l.ng.
Society islands
, where ho got
f of which W113
sian merchant-
the parallels of
rents from the
11 appearances,
; but wc du not

,.. p..™.. » . .mciontl, tag. uUMbor of f«.. tan, .lu. h to doduc. » g....-
,i* t^l tad .»=....«« cur,... to .... W™., incU,.l,.g ,« «>n,., ;.. ..

J, wnorowu 1 vv^VV and W bv S. In tho months i.l I'ou-

stantly bore away between W.S.W. and W^ by ^^„ ^^^^^ ,,,«, i„ n

ruary and March, between long. 02 •^"'l ^ '^ ' ;''"^; . ^^^^„^„ ,„„^, 1,7^
days, of 15 miles in twenty-four hours, to S. 8. W be^ K

and Ur in tho same interval of time, of H nnles to 8. 71 W.
ana ui , m "• 1 „„ i^a^ and 110". in 8 xteen days, of H I

,,„r .nd Uccmber, t*""" '""/• '.*°y '"^/X; on, toward, .ho W..., in

ih^dti 1"::: h2g .« g.u... .« »ho, i„ .wo„.,.ro.. ho„„,

'" |oIl.h of .a.. 0^ -ho c,™.» Wined .o. to .ho W.. of Wh
In .he ....em helf of .ho r«ciUe (W»n long. ^»- - ' ^ • ,„„.,,„„„

-•-':^«V"":rfo:'c itTwei; Jf »: »» .„.„ w .h.

f r.A ♦« >in N 75° W , 22 ra les in twenty-four houis , anu on

found to be N. 75 w ., - apparent circumstances, and

from the Caroline Archipelago, under tho same apparen

L .he ..n,o in.e.a. 8. .. W., .. "«f- -^ ^o Id'. >.« ns L.^

r"'H:ito"r'::t:dii";:!::^^^^^^^^^

long. 143 to 139 i..), we n ,^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^_j _^ ^^.

of „hioh in.eoda,. -N. W. .^ ^^^^_^^^^_ ^^ ^^^ „

.urnmg from Iho Worm to i" j ,. ',,„, „„ to the period of onr

N.W.curron^ for .he ^'7' /"' ^^^ "VTo 204-) , L .0 found
„eeUng ,i.h the teade ""<";'" "■^; i u^. „ .wen.yfonr honr,, to N. C»^
.heir mean rato in n,n, ay. ^^.'^y^j: L 4e cLrary, .» far as .he

''■iidi:hi::::rr:Lror..reng.hof,^.rade,.^
„ird .ho diree.ion of -^ :^'::-2:'^:::^:ixv^:.. r:

d.n..l phenomenon ch™png-ri^ou.«r^^^^^^^

* rTnl* m. „n^C;n.tor> long. 175- E., aenrrent of ahon.
oarrenti-InJnlj, ""■'• J,,„^ fo, iour.om or Utlcon days, nl-

rn:hrrr:rf.:ir.:eoa...ard,andi.wa..hongh..ha.

W.yi

-^SfTT

0^0 CUEEENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

such changes have generally occuiTod onco a year, prohably induced by a
strong S.W. or westerly monsoon in North latitude, reaching ct this tiiuo
near the line. They avo fitful changes, and not to bo depended on, nor
can their extent to the eastward bo stated.— (Nautical Magazine, January,
18-1.'' p. 6.)

Captain "Wilkes says :~" On our route to the northward we crossed a
stream setting to the westward, which extends as far westward as the
Kingamill group, between lat. 2" 8. and 3° N., after which we encountered
another, setting with equal velocity to the East, between lat. 4-- and 9" N.
This last tropical counter current was traced by us between the same parallel
nearly across the Pacific, from the long, of 170' E. to the long, of 138° W.
We had no opportunity of ascertaining ourselves whether it exists to the
westward of the Mulgrave islands. But Horsburgh, and several other
authorities, mention the prevalence of an easterly current as far to the
West as the Sea of Celebes, and particularly in lat. 4=" N."— (Vol. v., p.
476.)

At the Gilbert Archipelago, during violent gales from S.W., which pre-
vail from October to April, trunks of largo trees are thrown upon the West
sides of the islands, together with large lumps of resin, similar to that found
in the soil of New Zealand.

Captain Bristow found the current strong from West to East at the Purdy
Islets, in February and March, 1817.
The following remarks are by Admiral Krusenstern :—
" This current, bearing from West to East, forms to the North of the
equator a zone which extends to the 6th degree of latitude, and the velocity
of which is frequently 20 leagues in the twenty-four hours. Ships returning
from China in the opposite season, that is, during the S.W. monsoon, and
proceeding by the Pacific Ocean towards the Strait of Ganom, do not gene-
rally go farther towards the East than the Pelew Isles ; but if they do not
pay groat attention to this current, they wiU usually be carried several de-
grees towards the East. The best means of avoiding this stream of cur-
rent is to attempt to cross it as quickly as possible from North to South,
because South of the equator the S.E. trade is met with, accompanied by
a current bearing to the West, the rate of which, near the coast of New
Guinea, is from 15 to 40 miles in the twenty-four hours, in a West and
W.N.W. directions."

Sir Edward Belcher inferred the existence of this easterly current on ap-
proaching Clipperton island, as noticed on page 78g ante. The island is in
kt. 10" 17'N., long. 109" 10' W. He says:— "No living trees were seen,
but the whole island was covered with ganuot, boobies, frigate pelican, and
several kinds uf tern, which had alwo been noticed in great numbers during
the previous week, at least -500 miles to the eastward. From this an easterly

lEAN.

bly induced by a
ling t.t this tiiuo
lependcd on, nor
Eigazine, January,

ard Tre crossed a
westward as tho
1 we encountered
lat. 4- and 9" N.
1 the same parallel
I long, of 138° W.
ir it exists to the
nd several other
rent as far to the
N."— (Vol. v., p.

S.W., which pre-
vn upon the West
nilar to that found

East at the Purdy

the North of tho
3, and the velocity
3. Ships returning
W. monsoon, and
Qom, do not gene-
but if they do not
!arried several de-
this stream of cur-
m North to South,
h, accompanied by
r the coast of New
irs, in a West and

rly current on ap-
The island is in
3g trees were seen,
frigate pelican, and
ent numbers during
lom this an easterly

THE JAPANESE CUIIRENT.

941

current may bo inferred, as those birds generally iceop in its stream or tail

ciduise."

Vancouver found a strong current (2^ knot.'s), sotting to tho eastward and
N.E. when off Cocos island, as mentioned hereafter.

These observations will demonstrate that between lat. 4' and 10' N.,
which limits may bo subject to some fluctuation, there is a current nm-
ning to the eastward, or against the usual course of the inter-tropical winds
and the drift of the ocean on either side of it, and extending from tho
wostera extremity of the Pacific as far as long. 115^ W., and perhaps beyond
this, if the Peruvian cold current should not extend beyond that latitude in
this meridian.

THE JAPANESE CUREENT.

The movements of the waters, as well as of the atmosphere, seem to be
on a more limited scale, and less decidedly marked, in the northern Pacific
than they are in the southern hemisphere. This is probably owing to its
comparatively enclosed character. From this cause it deserves, in some de-
gree, the title of Pacific, and its navigation is not attended with any dif-
ficulty, as any ordinary ship may, with perseverance, work to windward in
its central portion.

But toward its western side the movement of the ocean becomes manifest,
and we find a great analogy in this respect to that of the North Atlantic,
and accordingly, a very distinctly characterized current in the Pacific fol-
lows a parallel course to that of the Gulf Stream, well known in the

Atlantic.

From the difPerent configuration of the land, however, the absence of any
western barrier, such as the Mexican coast presents to the western progress
of the Atlantic waters, and the contraction of its channel by the Bahama
Islands, this Pacific Gulf Stream has not such a distinct character as is seen
in the Gulf of Florida. Still this warm ocean river may be traced in its
course by observation and analogy around the northern side of the North

Pacific.

This current, in the earlier part of its course, has been noticed by several
navigators, especiaUy Captains King, Ki-usenstern, and Broughton, whose
remarks will be given presently.

The first point which may be noticed in it is the authority of the Japanese
charts. On all of them, as shown by Von Siebold and Krusenstern, between
Fatsizio and the Mokiera Islands, that is, off the S.E. part of Nipon, South
of Jedo, the capital, a current to the eashcard is marked, called the Euro
Siwo Stream, or as Krusenstern calls it, Kouro^pgawa, or the Current of the
Black Gulf. The latter adds this remark :— " This current is 20 raatai (five-
ninths of a Japanese ri, that is, about thiee-quartevs of a mile) 15 miles

f R

\'i

942 CITRRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

Wd. For 10 matsi it has a very rapid course. In winter and spring it is
.«rv rliffirult to navi-^^-, Lut in summer and autumn vessels can pass it.
"c'a Sfal Iftcr the deaths of Captains Coolc and Cler.e. returned
from the northward in the Eesoluiion, making the coast of Japan m the be-
lling of November, 1779. Captain King states that n th.s passage
wZ tU approached the S.E. part of Japan, they w-e dn ted by a s rong
Irront from the S.W., and that when they reached the latitude of«5 4
in eight hours, instead of making a course of 9 leagues to th« S.W they
: be n carriU 8 leagues from the position they had left m a d.ametn %
pposite direction, giving a velocity and direction to the curren of at W
ri r m/7.« an hour to the N.E. by N., the longitude being 141 16 tapt^

^ tke: the following comments on this :-As the strong -rents jhich
along the eastern coast of Japan may be of <i-g-°- --/^l^^J^*"
ho navigator who is not aware of their extraordinary rapidity, I shall take
ave of this island with a summary account of their force and direction a
observed from the 1st to the 8th of November. On the Is at which
tt we were about 18 leagues to the eastward of White Point, the current
leT N E by N., at the rate of 3 miles an hour ; on the 2nd as we approached
he shore, we found it continuing in the same direction, but increased m its
p^^^^^^^^^ an hour; as we left the shore it again became more

noderl and inclined to the eastward ; on the 3rd, at the distance of 60
noderat^ ana ^^^^ „„ the 4th and 5tb, it turned

leacues, it set to tne su.i.^.^-, " «" . , , ., j- i- „„„ a v

i could BO longer p.rceWo any at all. Ihi. calcdaUon would mj.e ,.
about 250 mile, broad ofithU part of the Japanese coast.

lUe net authority we .hall quote tor it i. Adnural Kru«n.^n, who
p.rd to the oaetward of the idande, September 1804. From the mtro-
j„„i™v mrtion of hit ureat work we eitract the following :-

'Z7.^: con, J* - »" *» »-^- ^r t f "" 1 'iTi 1
11^1 ^t 'ifii." wfl had daily a current, which carried us W.ii.. i

'Zr : r rt'of ifn^rifthe .U^..^ hour,. From the latitude
otTr to m', being about 70 league, from land, it bore toward, the E.N.E ,
with a vli; of Lile. an hour. From the parallel of ZH' -o 34^ the
Vv .„ N F * N U mile an hour ; we were then 60 league, froui
LT T^ersingVo^ianl lying to the South of the Culf of Jedo, we
felt a current bearing to S.W., with a velocity of nearly a mile an hour ;
but Ifter having passed these islands some degrees to the West, we again
met with the former current bearing to the N.E.

When we discovered the coast of Japan upon the parallel of 3 , and
particularly the southern part of the Isle Sikokf, the current carried us to
Z N E 3i mUes an hour. Captain Broughton ranged near the eastern

IAN.

and spring it is
can pass it."
lerke, returned
ipan in the be-
n this passage,
fted by a strong
tude of 35° 43',

the S.W., they
1 a diametrically
rrent of at least
141° 16'. Capt.
a currents which
i consequence to
Jity, I shall take
and direction, as
le Ist, at which
'oint, the current
IS we approached
t increased in its
lin became more
le distance of 60
md 5tb, it turned
rection was S.E.,

and 7th it again
till the 8th, when
on would make it

Krusenstem, who
From the intro-

rait of Sangar, as
carried us N.E. i
From the latitude
jwardstheE.N.E.,
f 3ii° to 34i° the
m 60 leagues from
Gulf of Jedo, we
J a mile an hour ;
he West, wo again

)arallol of 31°, and
rront carried us to
id near the eastern

THE JAPANESE CURRENT.

943

coast of Japan during the months of November and July. Wo soo by his
journal that ho constantly felt a current which carried him to the N.E., at
'2 miles an hour, with this difference, nevertheless, that during the month of
November the current bore more toward tho North, and in July more to the
East, but always between those two directions. 'We can conclude from the
foregoing, that tho currents upon tlio eastern const of Japan are subjected
to fixed laws, at least during tho months of July, Septem.ber, and October,
and that their strength and force depend on the distance whore they are
mot with from the coast.

It would be easy to multiply evidence of its character, but we take tho
description given of it in Commodore Perry's account of his mission to
Japan, by Captain Silas Bent, as derived from the investigations by tho
U.S. officers in 1854 (pp. GOl— 3).

It is an immense oceanic current on tho East coast of Asia, which will bo
found on tho adjoining chart as delineated from the observations made by
tlio Expedition, and boars a striking analogy, in every essential point, to the
Gulf Stream of tho Atlantic.

Tlie results of tlioso observations show quite conclusively that the stream
has its origin in tho great equatorial current of tho Pacific, from which it is
separated by the South ond of Formosa, about the latitude of 22"^ N., long.
122° E., whence it is deflected to the northward along the East coast of For-
mosa, until reaching the parallel of 60° North, when it bears off to the
northward and eastward, washing tho whole S.E. coast of Japan as far as
the Straits of Sangar.

Near its origin tho stream is contiacted, and is usually confined between
tho islands of Formosa and Majico-sima, with a width of 100 miles, but to
the northward of the latter it rapidly expands on its southern limit, and
roaches the Lew Chew and Benin groups, attaining a width to the northward
of the latter of 500 miles.

Tho north-western edge of the stream is strongly marked by a sudden
thermal change in the water, of from 10° to 20°, but the southern and eastern
limit is loss distinctly defined, there being a gradual thermal approximation
of the air and water.

Along the borders of the straam where it chafes against the counter
currents and torpid waters of tho ocean ; as also in its midst, whore whirls
and eddies are produced by islands and the inequalities in its bed, strong
tide rips are encountered, often resembling heavy breakers on reefs or shoals.
Its average velocity, between the South end of Formosa and the Straits of
Sangar, was found to be from 35 to 40 miles per twenty-four hours. Yet,
upon one occasion, off the Gulf of Yedo, its maximum strength is recorded
ns high as 80 miles per day.

To the northward of the parallel of 40° N. in long. 143° E. there is a cold
counter current iuterveniug between it and tho South coast of Ycsso, us

■*«)F!aS»-^5f5ff

hH^j, ^

9,4 CURRENTS OF THE NORTH rACIFIC OCEAN,

shown by a sudden thermal change in the water, of from IC^ to 2 0^ which
it is believed, sets to the westward, through the Straits of Sangar, but tho
limited stay of the squadron in that vicinity, and the harassmg prevalence
of fogs, prevented such observations being made as to satisfactonly detei-
mine whether or not there was a predominant current flowmg m either
rectil. or whether it was merely the ebb and flow of the t«des through
"ai;. To the westward, however, of a line connecting the North end
of Formosa, and the south-western extremity of Japan a cold counter cur-
rent was again found, which sets to the southward through the Fcrmo a
channel into the China Sea, and it does not. therefore, seem unreasonable to
bZv that a hyperborean current will be found in the Japan Sea. setting
to the southward'^etween the Japanese Islands and the mam coast of Asia
fed by that on the South coast of Yesso, and supplying that one setting
throueh the Formosa channel.

The Japanese are well aware of the existence of the Great Stream which
cashes the south-eastern shore of their empire, and have given it the namn
Tf Kuro-Siwo, or Black Stream, from its deep blue colour when compared
with the neighbouring waters of the ocean. , ,^ ,

it was also noticed by Captains Cook, Krusenstern, and other explorers
tut no systematic series of observations, it is believed, has ever before been

^ThVa^rage maximum temperature of the Kuro-Siwo is 86^ and the
difference between its temperature and that of the ocean due to tho latituae
i about 12". There is no counter current intervening between the Kuro-
Siwo and the coast of Japan, to the southward of the Straits of Sangar, and
nolhing was found to manifest the existence of such a current as under-
rmnina that stream, and although the observations indicate strata of cool
wrer Winthe longitudinal direction of the Kuro-Siwo. yet their tem-
Irature varied but a L degrees from the main body of the stream, and

hores of the islands, have a modifying influence upon the climate o th
empire making it milder and more equable than in corresponding latitudes
rCFast coast of the United States. There is a floating sea-weed fou^^^^^
in the Kuro-Siwo, similar in appearance to the Fucus natans of the Gulf

'TnThe passage of the Mmi.ippi from Simoda to the Sandwich Islands
the thermometer showed a cold aqueous space between the meridians o
fs'o E Id 170° W. and the parallels of 30° and 35° N. which bears a
general correspondence in the Pacific to the position of the Sargasso boa in
tho Atlantic.
Thus far the definition of the Japanese current rests on positive evidence

'%IM

\ wliieli,

but tho
•evalonoe
ly deter-
in eitlipr

through
forth end
nter cur-
Fcrtnosa
onable to
a, setting
t of Asia,
le setting

sm which
the name
compared

explorers,
efore been

', and tho
10 latitude
the Kuro-
mgar, and
as under-
ita of cool
their tem-
tream, and
hem. The
ter current
uth" eastern
aate of the
ig latitudes
weed found
of the Gulf

ich Islands
aeridianB of
ich bears a
;a890 Soa in

VG evidence

THE JAPANESE CURRENT.

91.5

of unexceptionable character, as far as regards tho seasons in which thoy
wore, made. But its offocts may be traced to the northward and westward.

It reaches tho coast of Kamchatka. Tho mildness of the climate about
Awatska Bay is attributed to tho warm (Japanese) current coming from the
south-westward, and thus ameliorates the severity of the winter. The com-
parative freedom from ice of the bays and inlets is also another ovidenoo of
its inliuence. The universal fogs which prevail, too, in the vicinity of tho
islands in the western portion of the Sea of Behring, arising, as is most
probable, from the difference of temperature between the air and water, also
indicates the samo fact, and is perhaps analogous to tho same phenomenon
on the banks of Newfoundland, arising from the Gulf Stream.

The destruction of a Japanese junk occurred near tho South ond of the
Kamchatkan Penin^-ula in July, 1729. It was proceeding to the Port of
Ohosaka In tho South of Japan, and was drifted away by a violent storm to
the N.E., and at last reached the place alluded to. This is also corrobo-
rative.

Another and similar circumstance of a Japanese junk which had drifted
from its destination, and anchored, in December, 1832, at Oahu, Sandwicli
Islands. Although the currrents in tho vicinity of this group do not seem to
be very well defined in their character, and we shall adduce one of an oppo-
site nature, this circumstance must also be considered as an evidence of the
easterly drift from Japan.

But we may look still further to the East. A Japanese junk was wrecked
near Cape Flattery, in Oregon, in 183:5. This last is detailed by Wasliing-
ton Irving, in liis "Astoria." These singular occurrences at once attest
tho tendency of tho currents, and open a wide field for discussion on tho
migration of the inhabitants of eastern Asia and the peopling of tho western
world.

As an intermediate point where we may look for indirect evidence of the
progress of this stream, the South extremity of Kodiak Island may be ad-
duced. Here tho remains of Japanese wrecks, recognised by the camphor-
wood used in them, and other Japanese articles are found. We have no
direct experiments recorded of the force or prevalence of the current to the
South of the Aleutian Islands, but it may be supposed, from what has been
said, to trend to the eastward towards tho coast of N.W. America, and then
assume a more southerly direction. This theory is confirmed by tho ensu-
ing remarks of Commander Wilkes, of the United States' Exploring Expe-
dition:— -Our passage from the Hawaiian group to the N.W. coast gave
interesting results in relation to the currents. They were irregular until wo
reached the latitude of 27" N., after which we wero strongly affected by
a south-east current, whose influence continued until we reached tho coast
of Oregon. At tliis time it ran at the rate of 50 miles in twenty-four
hours ; but when the Peacock traversed this same space, ninety days later,
North Pacific. 3 p

■■iiC'«gigs .«its8»a s » 'BiMB»gtro'^-;>j«?^ - ■'^»*"' '^*'"''' " ''^' -'•"'^

946

CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

the velocity had not only diminished, but what --nt -^^^^^^^^^^ ^^Zt
in an opposite direction. In relation to the extent of this S.E. current in
he months of March and April, I have no precise information, nor can I
BuppTy it from others, since those who had previously vi.ted his part of the
Zan had not paid sufficient attention to this subject to furnish any pre-
Zr AH however, agree in the fact, that they were affected by a S^E.
ltent;^ften7eLhi;g the lon^tude of 130^ W. and the latitude of 3 ^ N.

We may conclude our remarks on this part of the ocean with the observa-
tioror/dmiral LUtke, whose scientific character and ample means com-

mand all confidence ;— ,,..., *i

I. the same way that the constant West current within the limit of the
N £ ttde-^nds is explained by the constant easterly winds, so beyond tins
uitwemelwl such currents as the prevalent wind would afford - ex-
hmitwemetw ,^^ ^^ ^^.^ ^^^^ j^ ^^^ ^hroe

f s to Isourof Kamchatka and back again, between lat. 80" and

4;T4 ° and lont C20 and 146^ we found, even with easterly winds,
rrenl t'o ^e East' lu our route from the Bonin-sima Islands to Kam-
chatka in May, 1828, we felt the first effect of th.s current, in lat. 33 42 .
chatka, in M y ^ ^^^ ^^^ .^ ^^^^^ ^^^ extremely

;; mV; w ndT From thence, in lat. 45», we had for ten days wit. only
Itlfeeptions .^^^

iX ^re r::tit"n;^sfnter;al was 15 milesin --y-fo". -.

toN 47° B. The current after that bore even more to S.E. , but then

J u ■ Aa frnm N W In the route from Kamchatka to Ualan,

t^lTifZl'^^^ri. t-e E«t ,«>*r ^t up (or eight da>,,
fi!'«t <«.urr.a tbi. iime too in abont lat. 34-, when w. ,»o dnM,
* tt,; ton. hour., 35 n.iUs N. f E., tho wind noarly caln. B. ■n»n
in iweu i .^ twenty-four hours, to the E.S.L.

tion in these eghtda^ was ^^^ ^^^^^^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^

? '"s E Xf r sl current. It was not then so marked, but as far as
rr3'o'«ral direction was towards the N.E. quarter, and afterwards, m
la • 2 ; w'eTain found the S.E. current, two consecutive days of 10 m.les
1; twintlvlur hours, with the weather nearly calm, or extremely bght East

"capt Beechey found the same during three days in about lat. 35° N. long.

166° E; the currents then from 40 miles to the S.E. to 6 miles to the South,

and 19 miles to S.E. by S. ^. ^ r, v

These currents have a remarkable analogy with those which have been

^. Td X same latitude on the coast of Japan, where strong E. and

"rents r^ominate. In comparing these phenomena with each

THE JAPANESE CURRENT.

947

iFaB nearlj'
current in
nor can I
part of tlio
iny precise
[ by a S.E.
of 35° N.
le observa-
[leans com-

imit of the
beyond this
Ford an ox-
1 the throe
lat. 30° and
iterly winds,
ds to Kam-
lat. 33° 42',
id extremely
B, with only
ill this time
letimes very
;y-four hours
E., but then
ka to Ualan,
t. 38° during
r eight days,
were drifted,
n. Its mean
to the E.S.E.
10°, during a
, but as far as
afterwards, in
^8, of 10 miles
lely light East

,t. 35°N.,long.
8 to the South,

ich have been
strong E. and
Bna with each

other, the conviction cannot be avoided that some connexion exists between
them.

This is the only current in the northern part of the Pacific Ocean in which
any sort of constancy has been observed independent of the prevalent winds,
with the exception of this, we usually found that the currents followed the
prevailing wind. To the North of this parallel of 42°, in the western part
of the sea, we chanced to have the wind almost always from the East, and
with it cun-ents to the "West, which, during fresh breezes, wore sometimes
of 20 miles per day, and when it fell calm they ceased entirely. In some
cases, on the contrary, when the winds passed to N.W., the current then
turned to S.E. ; the immediate influence of the wind was hero evident. The
same may be affirmed for the space comprised between the parallels of 30°
9ud 32- and the limits of the N.E. trade-wind, although we have met with
some exceptions. In our route from the Caroline archipelago to the Bonin-
Bima Islands we lost the trade-wind in lat. 22°, and thence to lat. 27° we had
constantly currents to the North, which corresponded more with the direction
of the wind than with its strength, they being sometimes very strong with
very light airs. Their mean action in the interval of six days was 15-3 miles
in twenty-four hours, to N. 9° E. To the North of the Bonin-sima Islands
until we got into the N.E. current above described, we had westerly cur-
rents of the mean rate of 12 miles in twenty-four hours, with the winds fresh
from East. Further to the eastward, on the corresponding parallels, the
currents were also to S.W., with westerly winds.

In the eastern part of the ocean, on our route to the N.W. part of
America, the easterly winds accompanied us from lat. 30° to lat. 45°, with
such constancy that we could not observe any change from the trade to the
variable winds. Further on, until we reached within sight of the land, the
East winds still continued, but they were neither so fresh nor so steady as
before. During the whole of this time the current was sometimes N.W.,
at others S.W., varying in strength from 5 to 15 miles, its mean velocity in
the space of fifteen days being 8-6 miles per day to S. 87° W.

On leaving the N.W. coast of America we likewise experienced a S.W.
current, but then it was more decided. In the first four days, up to lat. 54°,
long. 142°, it carried us to S.S.W. at the rate of 10 miles per day, even with
winds from the West ; it was only arrested once by a very strong wind from
S.W. Further on, on our route to Ounalashka, during which contrary
winds obliged us to bear to the South, as far as lat. 48J°, we did not have,
in the course of eleven days, up to lat. 52°, long. 160°, any sort of current ;
thence to Ounalashka there was a weak current between N.W and S.W.
Its mean drift in twenty-four hours was, in four days, G miles S. 76° W.

The currents experienced by us do not at all correspond with those
observed by the Russian colonial marine, who found the motion of the water,
driven by the almost continual West and S.W. winds, in general follows the

U f 2

^aBia^^.AJJ J 4 <.^,-J.^ M i AM v # .....>V1^.4J MJ< --^ifc.^li-.!l'i^ ''-' ^iWE^a^^-^^^'" ■ ' "

948 CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN,

direction of tho conBts, in ruiming to the North as far as Cook's Inlet or
K nlL Bay and from thonco to the S.W. Between the N.W. coast of
W a ndT^^^^^^^^ of Kodiak the latitude observed is always greater
«r tha by the reckoning, and quite the contrary further towards Ouna-
ala Articles that, have been dropped or been thrown overboard W
ve els at 100 miles to tho S.W. of Sitka have been found m Pnnce W.l

^5rsr::;s^i:^s^^^^

::: t of ^iaskl" t'l as to the South coast of Kodiak, is confirmed by the
Z^^:^l^^ island, who search for and always End the^..o«nded
Shales that have been abandoned, in the direction of Oukamok Island
Ihere they are carried by the drift of the current. The strength of the
Toler cCnt at 150 miles to the South of Kodiak, has been sometimes
Boutherly cu ^^.^^ty-four hours. This southerly current is some-

lesletw tl: ° "LeFltof the meridian of Kodiak, and extends t„
hTparaglsl^^^ the Aleutian Islands, in which there are also peno^
ourrents to the North, stronger than the opposing currents to the South,
rromarked in general, that in spring and autumn the current is more
rig and co;stant than in the other seasons; this perhaps explains why
tedid not find them in the order described.-(Voyage du SSma.ne

In addition to the foregoing there will bo f^'-^' °7«^7 f . ' f '^
some further remarks on the great Japan Stream whid.vndud the buef
ToTes on its progress into the Japan Sea by Capt. Chas. Bullock, E.N.

SEA OF JAPAN.
There exists at present but little information regarding the navigation of
fh Jsea ofTapan The winds there appear very available, and the currents,
tending onTecial causes, are at times insignificant, whilst at others they
rZwith greatLngth. Ihe only thing known with c-ta-ty -, that the
Japan Stream, as a rule (although with many variations of velocity, dir c
tn and brTdth, and much influenced by the wind), holds its way no,th-
eastwlrd from Korea Strait, and enters the Pacific by the Strait of Tsugar ;
aWhat a stream is usually found in the autumn months se tmg to the
ES.E. through La P6rouse Strait; ,nd in the summer along the coast ot

";;r::e::t: b'^o regularity in the currents along the westeni coast of
this sea; they are in general very feeble, increasing only off the ab up
ntloi the coast Broughton, who in October, 1797 passed close along
r oa t oZf a current setting to the S.S.W. at the rate of 1 mile an
W The French frigate Vir,inie, in July, 1866, found weak currents
letUng to the northward at a moan rate of 10 miles in twenty-four hours.

Inlet, or
'. coast of
ys greater
rds Ouna-
loard from
'rince "NVil
ents rur to
■is, of every

The cur-

tlio South
med by the
le wounded
lok Island,
igth of the

sometimes
mt is some-
l extends to
,lso periodic

the South,
rent is more
xplains why
vine.)

1 687-8 ante,
ade the brief
, E.N.

navigation of
the currents,
it others they
y is, that the
slocity, direc-
ts way north-
it of Taugar ;
setting to the
J the coast of

estern coast of
)ff the abrupt
3d close along
a of 1 mile an
weak currents
•four hours.

( 010 )

SEA OF OKHOTSK.

Tlie direction of the currents in this sea is uncertain ; they are found to
incroaso in strength as the linul is approached.

Near Ciipo Elizabeth, and on approaching tlie Gulf of Amur, heavy over-
falls and ripples occur, wliich appear to be produced by shullow surface
currents, and they often render a vessel quite unmnnagoabio. On some
occasions, in a steady 5-knot breeze, vessels have been for liours with their
head in the wrong direction, unable to answer the helm or trim of sails.
A strong surface current hero may naturally be expected, as the immense
body of water from the Amur, meeting with the obstruction caused by
Saghalin Island, effects its escape by the largest outlet, rushing over the
shallow banks at the mouth of the river, and continuing its course, following
the line of coast round Cape Elizabeth, causes, especially with East and
S.E. winds, a dangerous race, extending off shore 3 or 4 miles, and setting
strong to the southward along the eastern coast of Saghalin, where, for some
distance, the sea is discoloured by it.

SEA OF BEHRINO.

A portion of the Japanese current and the general drift induced by the
prevailing S.W. winds enters the Sea of Behring from the 8.S.W., and
exerts considerably influence on the climates of the respective shores. But
in a nautical sense they are unimportant, and may be dismissed with the
following extract from Mr. Simpson's remarks, drawn up while in H.M.S.
Plover in 1852 :—

In the absence of actual observations for determining the currents in these
seas, the proofs of the existence of such a one as that described are collected
from other circumstances, the chief of which are as follow : —

In the beginning of summer the eastern side, South of the strait, is free
from ice, and Norton Bay itself is usually cleared as early as April. After
the middle of June not a particle of ice is to be seen between Point Spencer
and King Island, whilst the comparatively still water North of St. Lawrence
Island is hampered with large floes until late in July. This can be satis-
factorily accounted for by the existence of a northerly current of warmer
water, partly driving and partly thawing the ice from the American shores.

There is scarcely a particle of driftwood to be had on the Asiatic coast
from Kamchatka to East Cape, whilst abundance is to be found in Port
Clarence and Kotzebue Sound, as well as along the whole of the American
shore from Norton Bay to Point Barrow. Although it has been found that
pine trees sixty inches in girth grow here, on the banks of American rivers,
within the 67th parallel of latitude, yet from the frequently larger size
of the trunks and their great abundance, it is evident these northern

,50 CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

regions including Norton Bay. cannot supply the quantity; and moro

:S>''1 hU ».ain «r. througWu. the ,ig„,. or r^^-' --^ ^
P . „»„^ Pnnt Welleslev ment ons hovmg picked up on tne ixunu

rdlTZ r^rplt aaVnce. a buoy which had W previously lost
frol the anchor of the Malus off the Island of St. Lawrence.

N.W. COAST OF AMERICA.
The great extra tropical drift has been traced in its eastern progress
from the imperfect data at our command, in the previous page Along
!l .Zt of Alaska we have but few observations to guulo us to a con-
the coast «f A^-^; ;;J .^ ,, ,,,,,i„iy inferred that a southern set

^r::; oZiZX^^, ./« tl. currents on the coast of Eu.pe th^^
warmer waters are driven on to this coast, and so cause all the P«^"l'-"^ «
7wa er and land climates alluded to on page 447. The sea abounds w th
alimal i?e to an enormous extent. It is the greatest fishery in the world
rje tho S.W. winds blowing on to the coast over the water warmer than
Tsdne to the latitude of the coasts, deposits on the land the accumukted
evaprtifn! and causes the climate of Alaska to be among the wettest in
the world.

COAST OF CALIFORNIA.
The drift we have been tracing, in a reverse direction to the g-g^^P^^^^
Jangement of this work, assumes a more decided character a^^^^^^^^^
of California, and is here much colder than the corresponding latitude so
thaUhe Cbours. such as San Francisco, are frequently enveloped in fogs^
it Mows the gen'eral trend of the coast, and may be 300 mi^s broad in h
„.ore marked portions of its oourse. but this . ^^^y l^^^^^^'lJ^^^^ „,
Liter of its projecting headlands, and frequently close in-shore, there are
:o:nrculents; and 'reversed tides, by which small vessels can advantage-
ourIv work their way against its general influence. , ., , ,

S Zn.*Lg the .ou.h.r. p.m ot Californi., and in .he I..*de, 1^^^

the ^^Lla i. .«a,ne» . more wcterl, oo.™e, .ud L. gradually merged m
the great equatorial drift Srst described.

WEST COAST OP MEXICO.
The «un-ent. ou Ihi, debateaUe ground are very difficult ot definition.

The n."6«««»»t »a'°6 ««" " ""l"'-"" "" '"*""" '

^'liiiniiiriiw"""

-"^

and more
oked to for
nost every-

to be iudi-
'edo navalis,
ine months'
1 the North
jviously lost

rn progress,
ago. Along
us to a con-
southern set
Europe, the
peculiarities
ibounds with
in the world,
warmer than
accumulated
he wettest in

a geographical
ilong the coast
ig latitude, so
eloped in fogs,
es broad in the
ie. Under the
hore, there are
can advantage-

khe latitudes of
ually merged in

W1«T {:(^.V8T OK MEXICO.

951

ult of definition,
ult and tedious,

owing to the ombnrrasHmont of cahuH and varying d.ir.H, but there is no
doubt they lluotuato with tl.o Bhiftin« .nonsouns which prcva.! hero. ( «,»>
Corrient..; iu lat. 20° 25', that is fairly within tl>e troi.i... am nv noli .s suh-
joet to tho varyin^^ streams which give it tl>o namo. is probably tho norther,
limit of these shifting streams, and botweon that and Cocoslshuul. around
which the streams are vory devious, it may bo cousldorod that tho ..nora
set will bo to tho southward iu tho winter months, and not^thward thr rest
of the year, but, as before stated, nothing very dofinito can be hi.d down.

The central r-tion of ti.e North racilic appears to be 'l-id of any
currents dopeua..ut on any primary cause; and around th>s space tho cux-
rents circulate in tho order which has been doscnbod. _

In the rhysikalischor Atlas, by Vrofessor Berghaus. a spaoo .n thooas rn
partof this area in the North IVilic is called AY..-..'. M^ponl, as t .
translated in the British edition of that work. This vertex .s assumed ho.u
t e rloning by Flouriou on the voyage of La Solid, by Etu.uuo Marchand.
ir n op ndent of the not very satisfactory conclusions arrived at by the
« g apher, in tho appendix to tho second volume of that work, .t may very
?:rbe<lueBtioned whether the reckoning of tho vessel is ent.ted to such
dependence as to found any characteristic of the currents as ,s attempted m
inlt alh.ded to. It was stated in tho outset that the -t.mat.on of

u rents was no easy problem, and that many causes concurrodn. the ror
of a ship's reckoning whi.h have been unjustly attributed to the . lects o
currents. This argument will probably apply wUh some we.ght to the

ThTrirrotdoubt but this so-called vortex is but the eastern extremity
of hat central area of quiescent waters around which the eastor^. and western
d iftsof the racific basin circulate. There is one most roma, .al.le evulence
h s n the growth and abundance of animal life, a.r.al and marme, wluch
everywhere is found. Sea-fowl of many species hover constantly over U ;

h witers are alive in some parts with moUusca and the ish wluch feed on
ZZ and for many years it was one of the favourUo whahng grounds of

irPacific fleet, their prey being attracted here by the abundance oi food^

iu this respect it is precisely a repetition of the well-known Sargasso boa xn

the Atlantic.

We have thus briefly and imperfectly drawn attention to the more marked
features of the movements of the Pacific waters. They are, as has been
said before, difficult to define, and so are of 'ess nautical importance.

The notes by Commander TroUope, R.N., given in the Appendix to the
Voyage of H M.S. Herald, will be of great interest, as showing the uncertain
nature of tho currents in the S.E. part of the North Pacific.

I',
i I,

( 'JiVJ )

4._MA0NETIC VARIATIOH.

,.«.u™ ot ...0 ..nation o *. oo„n, . W *« . ^^^ .„ .,„ „ ,„

elemonU enoonnterod m « long »oy«go .

,h.n wnnld be »mp..iM. - th the -£ <^ *' J,"* , „.,„e.i.m i. ef the
But adne coneidotation "'*«■» .-7' ; '" „ ■„ „u kn.^n, .nd Ibe
„t„... importence to the ..te »*:'^,° ^^^il^^Uon," n. the " Ad-
reader i. referred to Mr. Towaon . .^'T^ ,„ ^^ „„„g,„ent ot hi.
„i,.,.y Manual," for *» °r«"7 "'^^ ""not, in the varied mag-

notio change, through whieli he "»i" P»

our present work. „i,iM, the rarialion is of the .ame amount.

The ■•.,»,« "•"•• "' *"• T 'dJr" generally a. aecurale .. the

.„ ,iven on the i"-'»''''-„*;f„7;XVr»: at aU e.en., .»fflci.n«y

rrgrirrt- *^ - ..L .»e information ,hen

observations cannot be had. ^ ^^ ^^ ^te »ec«Zflr

On this diagram is inserted ^^^^'^'^^^ ^he chart being adapted

rariation, at present S0^« '''' Z^f^^'^'ll^^, elapsed between this date

to the epoch of 1870, by -^^>^!;^« ^J^o^

and any future year by the <i---'X'ZT

the present amount of vanation for that une ^^^^ ^^^^^ .^ ^^^

The arrangement of these isogomc ^^^ ^';^^„^3trial interferences, and

Pacific than over other ^^ ^7^"^ ^^^g^^^^^^ East and West
over the whole of the eastern port on ^ey hav g^^_ ^^ .^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^

direction. On the --^-^^r^V^X^Tbese Ltures .ill receive due
they run northwardly and ^^^^J^J^^^,, i, Hs amount uor in its secular
consideration from the marxner but neither
• variation is there room for much remark.

•V

) one chief
gram. To
magnetic
r discUBsion

im is of the
srn, andtho
,r the " Ad-
ment of his
rai-ied mag-
, the field of

Eime amount,
urate as the
,8 sufficiently
arve to draw
ship, should
mation when

or the tecular
)eing adapted
reen this date
iveu, will give

simple in the
srferences, and
Sast and West
may be called,
ill receive due
)r in its secular

■m

-^■' — ^- •

-I'-

if* JardMu *>
% MiiniittA

/ L«aroiw I*

V <• C'»«lir«« JK

■vS'—-^ J ft, J(Mi>ri' J'

Plwmix

■ — «. s^

mOSm

MMiBl

,. .thfin;

* —

l**-*^"^.. Jir.lh*.!..

-l^lttSK^

yf M E X 1 (■ I)
{ .., P J.

' ,<3yp-'A»./

--- ''-iniii^i.

E a w A tar

■-»-*,.

Ulu£i

-i-

■■'<»^««

— .a*.*'

nstaMmpH

HO lOU KO 80

. iMjiwii, w«nicr »tiia«t, toiiook.

Mll»««iiill«lil I III n-

( !)5;5 )

5— PASSAGES.

From what has been said of tlio meteorology of the Nortli Patiflc it will
be manifeat that its navigation is simple and easy in every part, with the
important exceptions of those places lying in the belt of (!alm8, &c., espe-
cially the Bay of Panama. A voyage across the Pacific is carried on without
difficulty, going eastward in the extra-tropical portion influenced by the
anti-trade wind, and to the westward within the area of the N.E. trade-
wind. This applies to the eastern portion of the ocean, and whatever
vax'iations from a direct course on the western side may be necessary, are
due to the shifting monsoons of the China and other Asiatic coasts. These
monsoons and their influences on navigation are described in our directory
for the Indian Ocean, 1870, pp. 29 to 76, and in that lor the Indian Archi-
pelago, &c., pp. 1 to 32 ; and, as the countries most affected by them are
described in those works, although they form the western boundary of the
I'acific, the reader is referred to them for the necessary information.

One subject relating to over-sea navigation in such extensive oceans as
the Pacifie, great circle sailing, is very important, as it is under these circuni-
Btances that the greatest saving of distance is effected, by the choice of -uch
routes or those approximating to the shortest distance in angular measure-
ment. It will not be necessary further to allude to the subject here, as it
has been dilated on in our volume on the South Pacific and in other works
specially devoted to mathematical geography. Some of the great circle
tracks are shown on the adjoining diagram, and these must suffice.

The following notes on the general tracks across the North Pacific are
derived from various sources as quoted, and commence with those from the
Atlantic ai'ound Cape Horn.

Cape Horn to C.ujfoknia. and Biutish Columbta.

As in the Atlantic Ocean, the route from South to North, or vice versii, in
the Pacific, by crossing the different biilts of winds and calms, requires much
consideration ae to the best points for crossing the various parallels of lati-
tude and the equator. The entering or leaving one zone at the most advan-
tageous point has a very great influence on the speed and safety of the ship
through the rest. Therefore this meridional voyage must be considered wit.h
reference to the countries ueyond the scope of this work. What has been
previously said on the winds and currents will be necessary to understand
:he requirements of tliis section. .

To CuptaiL Jlaury, and also to the Dutch Meteorological Institute, under
* 'aptains Jansen and Van Oougii. we owe very much for their lucid discus-
;;uui uij'l long seiie:^ >j1 exiiiiiplts from which a correct decision may bo arrived

I i t lllltll MT' lll IT " -■-'---*-

m$ » » ..u ' -W- ' W. ' -. ' ^ ' ^f^y !

•^.•sj»'i,i jy, W VJff^y^^^^^l^^^^

PASSAGES.

954 **---

, 1 f tLA former, but omit the tables upon

at. We therefore quote the wor.« o^^ef^na^, ^^^ ^ .^^^,

which the conclusions are based. They are y

them would unduly enlarge this work. ^ trade-wind

The California bound veesels should aamtojne ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^

region of the Pacific as far to ^^l^^^^^^^'^:^ ^,, %. with head
Bide say of 118° W , as they -;^ ^^ ' ; J ^^^^ f,„^ the direct course
winds to make westmg, -^^^^^^^ ^^^^,^^, .^ad ahead, stand off to the
when the winds are faxr. Bu -^^^^^^ ^^^^^.^^.^ region. Having
westward espedally ^^ ^^ Ifjllftrades, the navigator with the
crossedtheparallelof 35 8.,ana ,, ^^ ^^^e the bet of his way

I «'*>'- ^«-''^-rj'n;LTCmo »d the «,u.... e.poci.ay,
pect between the parallel ot 50 D., i"

as it regards their reUabiHty. ^^ ^j^^ g^el of

the mean daily run i« ^^-^^^^p'^fi, ^o the usual crossing place on the
Ji^Criirc" is -1^3.300 miles, the average time .. days,

«,d the mean daily run 132 mdes^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ strong steacly,

The winds between 50 B and tu q ^^^ ^^^ j,^^^^^^ ^j^^,^

and reUablo, as the barometer wo^d lead u- p ^^^^^^^ ^^^^ .^

they axe on t^^^ Atlantic .d^ of th —t ,^^^ ^^^^^^

these respects is greater thaox 2,900 to , ^^^^^

^iles with them in the one ocean than xt xs 2 9 ^^ ^^^^.^^

An examination of the -^^^\^^^^^l,,,,^y more stable winds,
will also show a greater regularx y xmp^mg y .^ ^^^^^ , ^^

The greatest montHyaver^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^,^^^.^ the greatest monthly

rerron-^estrrg^T.-ys. the least 22-2 days, the extreme

difference is S? days. » ^ according to the season of the year,

Between the equator and 10 or U ., ^^^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^ ^^^ .^^^

the California bound navxgator may expect

N.E. trade-winds .^ j^^„^,y, February, and

He will find these last nearer t^« «^ sometimes find himself

March; ^utinJuly, August and Sep^^^^^^^^^^ ,^^,,.

totheN. of ^^«P-^^.t^'L\«-df^, be wxll not get them at all

e tables upon
, but to insert

E. trade-wind
on the eastern
jht with head
e direct couTse
band off to the
gion. Having
jfit'jr, with the
bi. ;.t of his way
jcording to the

they are to ex-
lator especially,

the parallel of
ne 30 days, and

ng place on the
, time 27-7 days,

e strong, steady,
the Pacific, than
between them in
er to make 3,300
ler.

jssing to crossing
ore stable winds,
ys in August ; on
) greatest monthly
lays ; the extreme

season of the year,
E., and to get the

ry, February, and
letimes find himself
to the N.E. trades,
ot get them at all,
should steer a good
of 20° N., in about
from June to No-

•* .'• "■ Ate-

11(1 .JO r,<<> HO

ssioi

IJA> 1610

Tit IT I iiTTmnii— aaaaiaaaia

ft-n. LAUKIE. M. FLEr

'-■ -■• —■•«■»■ 'M III' ,-»— »^i-u^.--y,.... — .. , ......

•-«. LAUAtt. M. FLEtT MmtlT, I <)ND«H

T » -lTr ftt li H i l«i'ii f i i" i rBN i iTM ^ - i -'l-'' -■ i '- '-^—

CAPE HORN TO CALIFORNIA, ETC.

955

vember. His course, after crossing 20" N., is necessarily to the northward
and westward, until he loses the N.E. trades. He should aim to reach the
latitude of his port without going to the W. of 130° W., if he can help it,
or without approaching nearer than 250 or 300 miles to the land, until ho
passes out of the l>elt of the N.E. trades, and gets into the variables, the
prevailing direction of which is westerly.

" Whore shall we take the 8.E. and lose the N.E. trades on the passage
to California ? " is an important question for a navigator to have answered,
who is striving for a short passage on the West coast of South America.
From the parallel of Cape Horn up to the belt of light winds and calms,
through which you generally pass before getting into the 8.E. trades, tho
prevailing winds are westerly winds, having northing more frequently than
southing in them.

Between the N.W. coast and the meridian of 130° W., from 30° to 40° N.,
the prevailing direction of the wind in summer and fall is from the north-
ward and westward, whereas, to the West of 130°, and between the same
parallels, the N.E. trades are the prevailing winds of these two seasons.
There is a marked difference in the direction of the winds on the opposite
sides of the meridian of 130° W. in the North Pacific. The cause of this
difference has been completely unmasked by the researches connected with
these charts. The agent which produces it has its seat in the arid plains of
New Mexico, Northern Texas, and the regions round about. At this season
of the year the prevailing winds in the western part of the Gulf of Mexico
are from the southward and eastward ; that is, towards the great centre of
rarefaction. At this season of the year, too, the prevailing winds in tho
Pacific, off the coasts of Central America, are from the southward, and also
towards the same centre of heated plains and ascending columns of air ; and
we have seen that off the coasts of California, between the parallels of 35°
and 40° N., the prevailing winds of this season are from the northward and
westward ; also towards this great inland " blow hole." In it is seated a
monsoon agent, whose influence is felt for more than a thousand miles out
to sea, drawing back the N.E. trades of the Pacific, and converting them
into a southwardly monsoon for half a year ; deflecting the N.E. trades
of the Gulf of Mexico, and converting them into a south-easterly monsoon
during the same season, and so influencing the prevailing 8.W. winds off
our N.W. Pacific coast that they, too, are almost made to blow a north-
westerly monsoon.

Therefore vessels bound to San Francisco should not unless forced by
adverse winds, go any further beyond the meridian of 138° W. than they
can help. Supposing that vessels generally will be able to reach 30° N.
without crossing the meridian of 130° W., the distance per great circle
from Cape Horn to its point of intersection with that parallel is about
6,000 miles.

I i

t ;:

g/ie

PAaSAGES.

And Hiipposing, nioroovor, that Ciililurnia bound voMselH will K'^noridly.
uftor doubling Capo Horn, bo able to (tohh the parallel of 60° H., between
the meridians of 80° and 100° W., their Hhurtost distance in luilrH then.e to
30° N., at its intersection with the nuiridian of 130" W. would l.o to cross
40° 8 in about 100" \V. ; 30^ S. in about 101°; 20^ S. in about 109°; the
oouator in about 117" W. ; and 30° N. in about 130° W. (12G° if you can).
l$y crossing the lino 10° furtluT to the East, or 10° further to the West of
117°, the groat circle distance from Cape Horn to the intersection of 30" N.
with 130° W., will bo increased only about 150 miles.

Navigators appear to think that the turning point on a California voyngo
is the place of crossing tlie equator in the Pacific. But tho crossing whi.h
may give tho shortest run thenco to California may not be the cvossmg which
it is most easy to make from the United States or Europe ; and it is my wish,
to give in these sailing directions the routes which, on tho average, wdl
afiord the shortest passage to vessels that have doubled Cape Horn ; and
then, by comparing the two, we may bo able to lay down the best route from
Cape Hoi-n to California.

There are 87 crossings between 115° and 120° W., which have been
analysed. They give the shortest average time to 8an Francisco ; their
average, however, is only 16 hours (0-6 day) less than tho average Irom the
crossing between 110° and 115°, and tho average to the latter crossing from
50° S. is 8 hours (0-3 day) shorter than tho average to the former crossing.
Hence wo conclude from a total of 441 passages from the line, of 448 to the
line that the average passage from 50° S. to San Francisco is 53-5 days vi4
the crossing between 115° and 120° W., and 53-8 days vi4 the crossmg
between 110° and 115°. Thus, in tho long run, the crossing between 115°
and 120° gives the best average, but is not so much frequented as that be-
tween 110° and 115°, the numbers being respectively 103 and 220.

A long series of tables derived from the voyages quoted is given by Capt.
Maury in elucidation of tho subject, which are very interesting. We give
some of his concluding remarks on the discussion of these tables.

The shortest monthly means are 104 and 116 days, and these are for the
vessels that crossed the equator in the Pacific during the months of Januai-y
and December. And to this crossing they had an average run of 96 and 98
days. Vessels that sail from the United States to CaUfornia in all of Sep-
tember and October are the vessels which, upon an average, should have tho
fairest winds and make the best passages.

It is of some consequence, in deciding as to the best crossing place on the
equator, that tho navigator should have an idea as to the paraUels near
which he may expect to lose the S.E. trades ; for the equatorial Umits of
these winds change with the season. :

In March you will occasionally carry them several degrees over into tho
northern hemisphere. But in this montli thry are generally near the verge

(j;onoriilly,
1., butwoon
H llionco to
1)0 to cross
t 109"; the
f you can),
ho Went of
n of 30" N.

•nia voyiige
isiiig whi(;h
swing whicli
is niy wish,
^forago, will
Horn ; and
t route from

have been
icisco; their
go Irom the
•ossing from
lor crossing,
if 448 to the
i3-5 days vi4
the crossing
lotweon 115"
1 as that be-
20.

.^en by Cai)t.
g. Wo givo

,e are for the
s of Januai-y
of 96 and 98
in all of Sep-
juld have the

place on the
)araUels near
irial limits of

over into tho
ear the verge

CAPE TIORN TO CATJFORNI.X. IHT'.

of their extreme docliiiation towards tlio South. When you lose them and
pot the N.E. trados, koop away with a good rap full, iiovor aiming tt> cross
the parallel of 20" North to tlio Kiist of long. 12.")" West. Uiiloss tiio wiiuls
forco you off, aim to bo in shorn of tho moridian of KJO' W. whou you loso
tho N.E. trados.

When you do loso tliom, if thou you havo to figlit the calms and baffling
winds of till' horso latitudos, miiko tho liost of your way oti a duo Nortli
course, till you cross this bolt of calms, or catch a good wind, or got into tho
variables boyoud. 1 shall havo more to say upon this subject at some other
time.

In April you will carry these trados a little further North, and so on
further and furtlu^r until Oetobor, when the? northern edge of thom bocomos
stationary and commoncos to return South. It reaches its furthest parallol
of southern declination in Marcli or Ajjril.

It appears from tho summing up that tho average passage to California for
all classes of ships that used the charts and crossed the equator between
105° and 120° is, tho year round, 130 days. When those investigations com-
menced, the average passage the year roimd of all classes of ships, irom the
Atlantic ports of the United States to California was 1 80 days.

Indeed, it may now be considered as reduced to 128 days, for that is the
average of the 87 vessels that crossed between the meridians of 1 15° and 120°
West, which these investigations have shown to be the best crossing place.
Indeed, the average of the 220 vessels that have crossed between 110° and
115° W., taken with tho 87 that havo crossed between 115" and 120°, makes
the average rather less than 129 days.

The average passage of upwards of 300 vessels that havo crossed between
110^ and 120° is 1289 days. There is no reason why all vessels should not
cross the equator between these two meridians, and hence we may consider
it as an established fact, that the average length of the sailing voyage from
Europe or the Atlantic ports of the United States is less than 130 days.

The vessels that sail in the spring have, in tho aggregate, an average
passage ten days longer than those which sail at other seasons, the spring
average being 137 against 127 days for the rest of the year.

The average crossing place of 50° S. on tho Pacific is about 82° West.
Winds are sometimes, though not often, fair for making westing on tho
polar side of 50° S. When they are so, the skilful navigator will not fail to
take advantage of them to gain a still more westerly crossing of this
parallel.

In urging upon California bound vessels the importance) of making westing
about the parallel of 50° S., I do not moan that they should expose them-
selves to heavy weather, or contend against adverse circumstances. I simply
mean that if a vessel, after doubling the Cape, can steer a W.N.W. course
as well as a N.W., or a N.W. as well as a N.N.W., or a N.N.W. as well as

^■■■■ll.^«MiH«ti*1ilWW*M— MOW*"' iiiiliin|»WIW*»*«iMBiiWiWWWi^^^^^M

PASSAGES,
to tlio W. of 100 or irur last-namod mondmu.

'■"'Zm^l fro. 0.p« no™ .0 CUto^i. U. a. . rou.0, to b. pre-

.afoly taken as a general rule_ ._|,„„„,to„ a ve>»el bound to tUe

CapUin S';-;^„°*7'a"d ™Z;- beZ tho'.outbe.l, ga,o, ,bU,„
Tfostoni coast of Mexico, anu ruim g America she ouffht to

.ta„,t con-tantl, blow, along U'" *o™ ';< S^^^tr "w -t toUle
.lape a conr» ,0 a. to -« *» "'J-^' » f ;^ "^ ^ e" or 1' to the
- that, whon *»f 'g^'^^f^'^V^ :na W, at the .an,c tin., «

riable winds. recommended to do so by some

riltbTexrty'in tbo »m>e longitude a. on, pert; ,.h.n we got tl.e
led u. to be exactly in t ^^^hwara, we were constantly increaeing

trAanaittogmgwel to Jb^^-^- ■ ,.t,„ ^ i„..,„,e tack of

„„r aietance untU ■" *» '^J,, i ^„ recemmenaea, the fir.t of tbe

rrtr'irmLerrw::— ««--»*-. --- -

'^0 '"i^b^^l'rwSn Inaing in for the la.a not to go to leewara of
Ban BlaTltL-Laetrong »utbe,ly current along .be coast, especiaU,

off Cape Corrientes. ^^i,^^^^ from San Bias had better make

* ™:^ rarrrsbT:resr«ua!:i i ..^^ o.,.s^ ^^.
::br:m:t:et.betruewind,wbicbbiow^..-^^^^^

.,„ng .be line of^c«a. ^^^^J^^X^^.'^JZ^, islbt^ea, «,,

'^t:Xf".e - btUe to L eastward. However it wiU always
wind will be teuna to ' f ,^j i„ ,i,ij„„t any re-

rrrer^JuC* i:g ^v w^a ..^. . i... ..« », ...

™"fl the distance, providca you have suiricient northing.

WKiSftJM'afcMrtiii

Dforonm to t\w

lot VTOHS 60'' H.
irdof 115°, nor
amod moridiiin.
you to kcop as
lin^ broad olF to
llling winds, or

■outo, to bo pre-

\io wind, may bo

sel bound to the
jrly galo, which
ca, sho ought to
' West longitude
ist 6° or V to tho
tho same tinio, a
currents and va-

, to do 80 by Bomo
ugh a remarkably
listanco. Several
8, San Bias, 672
stant. Our track
•when we got tho
stantly increasing
n in-shore tack of
led, the first of the
port, and she will

;o go to leeward of
he coast, especially

18 had better make
ts Cape San Lucas,
dthout intermission
or may be South of
Lng is obtained, the
rever, it will always
jic without any re-
n, in lat. 25'^ or 28°,

" :-5l!i!5!B!F15S:gvy?r'-f7^S5

ffj '^ 'itai m /.^j P JjSBFggryM

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

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Photographic

Sdences
Corporation

23 -JJiSt MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S8C

(716) 0/2 .^'^3

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CIHM/ICMH

IViicrofiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Instltut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

.^^■^B

BETWEEN CALIFORNIA AND AU8TEALTA. 989

The attempt to beat up in-shore amounts to perfect folly, if it does not
deserve a worse name, a strong current accompanying the wind ; and the
latter must be taken into consideration, when running in for your port with
westerly winds.

Should a vessel be bound to California direct, I would croas the equator
in the Pacific Ocean in about long. 100° W. ; cross the N.E. trade with a
topmast studding-sail sot, and thus pass into the limit of the westerly winds,
about 300 mUes to windward of the Sandwich Islands ; and once on them,
take good care to keep to the northward of my port, for, as you approach
the shore, the wind will draw round North, and the current to the southward
increase.

These remarks, and tho illustrative map of the passages will serve to
elucidate these routes.

BETWEEN CALIFORNIA AND AUSTRALIA, ETC.

Captain Maury says :— The great circle distance from South Australia to
California is about 7,000 miles, and vessels in the direct trade between
Australia and the Pacific coasts may have the choice of routes going as well
as coming ; going, the distance to be sailed, on account of detour for the
sake of winds, is about 7,500 miles ; returning, that is, coming this way by
the eastern route, the distance is eight or nine hundred miles greater. With
the exception of the N.E. trades on the passage from New South Wales or
Victoria to California, the winds are fair, or may conveniently be made fair
both ways. A good N.E. course can be made through the S.E. trades, and
a N.N.W. course, on the average, through the N.E. trades. But these
courses will not give easting enough for the California bound trader, and it
therefore becomes a question for him to decide whether he will make up his
easting in the variables South of S.E. trades, or in the variables North of
the N.E. trades, for in both of those systems of variables westerly winds
prevail.

If you pass through Cook's Straits, then stick her close to the eastward,
and take the eastern passage. On this passage you should run down youi
easting pretty well before you get far enough to be bothered by the baffling
winds of the horse latitudes South. If these come as low down as 30° or 40"
S., stand N. the moment yea feel them till you get the S.E. trades ; then
cross these and the N.E. trades, both as obliquely to the eastward as they
will permit, with fore-topmast studding sail set.

On this passage you will have finally to run down your easting when you
get into the variables beyond the N.E. trade, and of course you will aim to
reach the parallel of 38° or 40° N., or even a higher one North, to do this.
How far you will go North depends somewhat on the distance, you may be
West of California when you lose the N.E. trades. If you be only a degree

mum ^imia,m>s > s ' :

rASSAGES.

9f.n .

„b.i.,.t to turn out „( youf w., u-l go N * ■» •«"''' f^^., j^,.,, ,„,„ ,„„
„,™erlotW. questions ^, ,l„ir40"N f It the tomcr, tV,,.n ll,«

S.E. trade, are much mere steady aud rol.aWe ftan Acy a y ^^^

route. Moreover, the distance '- '>»;'*™ l^^',-^^^ .,,„. „ f,„„
Vau Diemen.. !.,„. - ^-.^ir^et -te that U praet>«h,e,

r^l *il"r;r;:<;:/y the ea-tor,. reute ^U, . -ay ep.uo,,
amply make up for this mcrea.edd„ta„ce^ ^^^^^^|.^__

It U proper for me '"•';;,':7:*;:lL„ of derived fcom mvesti-

:s.rtrr:t!=:rdhy.^;.^^^^^^^^^^^^

the liigli seas. tiassaee will be in the time

The most difficult and uneertam par s of thi passage ^^

■ eauv.,, .y the — -Jl^fe: l^e' !! To average, oue trip , ith
taiu», with ehpper .h.p. "■"I""'™' ^ ^ ' j n.e clipper rate

„„.ther, f-«,f^-;r wm p:;Z:::i:id/ot .00 mUe. a day;

■nolar side of 43° S. „4.„r„i+ nf San Francisco should

^^d-^^^VrorZllXch Islands, crossing the equator anywhere
to China, l-d^-^°!^*^•^J7,7;^^ 1,00 W., according as yon prefer to run
between the merxdxans of ^^^ -^ J', ^ ^^^^^^^ ^ ^^.^^^ ^^^^ ^,,.^.

down yonr westing P^^P^ ^j^/?; ;;f;S;e7are more steady, rohable, and
ference to the latter generally, because they aie m

PASSAGES.

001

Kout cnving to
ea to tho Wo4
n makes it an
1 winds.

itself into the
on tho paraUels
>rmor, thon the
ihould be given

idedly when tho
vo no doubt but
th variables and
) by the western
A Stnith side of
in throe or four
lat is practicable,
, in my opinion,

these Australian
ved from investi-
istralia to Ciilifor-
3dgo which I have
surronts out upon

spill be in the time
the winter fogs of
itoria to California

iccomplished under
But driving cap-
rage, one trip with
. The clipper rate
,f 200 miles a day ;
in which the winds
at driving than they
Pacific, say on the

3an Francisco should
)ugh you were bound
.e equator anywhere

as you prefer to run
ies. I give the pre-

steady, rehable, and

certain, than are their congeners of tho northern Jionii sphere— at least, such
is tlie rule. Tho distance by this route to Buss Straits will be about 7, .500
miles ; and an increase upon tliis of the average distance to be sailed on tlie
passage going, together with the distance returning, will not amount, as
beforo stated, to more than six or eight hundred miles.

Aim to cross 30° S., on the passage from California to Australia, in tho
neiglibourliood of 170° E.

Thence tho course is between Australia and New Zealand, direct for your
port.

The passage between Australia and California should bo made ordinarily
in from 45 to 50 days ; the passage to the East being rather the shorter, of
course clipper ships will occasionally make the passage in 37 days.

Panama to Caufounia.

Captain Maury, to whom wo are .f-till indebted, referring to tho daLa he
had collected, says : —

After carefully studying this description of the wind, derived, it is true,
from -no groat abundance of materials, I have to suggest the following
routes for the consideration of navigators bound N.W. from Panama.

From the Bay of Panama make the best of your way South until you got
between 5° N. and the equator.

Being between these two parallels, it will be for the navigator to decide
whether he will shape his course West, and keep between them until he
crosses the meridian of 25° West, or whether he will (tosb the equator, and
make his westing in South latitude, with the S.E. trades on his quarter.
The winds that he finds between 5° and the line should decide this question
for him. If he can get West here with a good breeze he should crack on,
and when his good wind leaves him, steer South again.

If the passage from Panama be atte npted in January, February, March,
April, May, or June, time will probab./ be saved by going South of the
equator; for, at this half of the year, the N.E. trades and the equatorial
doldrums are often found between the equator and 5° N. Between the me-
ridians of 80° and 85° West, in this part of the ocean, these winds and calms
are found even in the months of July and August. Therefore, in coming
out of Panama, and after crossing 5° N., in any season, make a S.W. course
if the winds will allow. If the wind be S.W., brace up on the starboard
tack ; but if it be S.S.W., stand West, if it be a good working breeze. But
if it be light and baffling, with rain, know that you are in tho doldrums,
and the quickest way to clear them is by making all you can on a due South
course.

Suppose that after crossing 5^ N. you have got to the West of 85° without
Nortit Pdcific. 3 y

■arws'sn^.swMtWffiisw.v

^^2 TASSAOES.

havine crossed the equator. Now, if the time of the year be in that half
tlifemb aces July and Doccnher, the prevailing winds will be betwoou
S E alsouth. inclusive, and the course is West as long as there ,s aWe.
As soon as the Le^e dies away, and you Login to fight the bafRmg a.r , on-
IZLt you are in the vicinity of the doldn^ms that ^^^ f^^J^^l:^
either between the N.E. and S.E. trades, or between one of the e trade and
«!e system of southwardly monsoons tl.nt blow North of the hue, and be-
twPGu the coast and the meridian of 95° W.

These belts of doldrums lie East and West, and the shortest way co cro„s
thJmTs by a due North and South line ; therefore let it be a - « whenever
Ihe navigator finds himself in one of chese calm belts, tomakeall the latitude
Tiossible for by that means he will soonest clear it. , , ,

"^ Havtr™ed the meridian of 95^ stand away to the northward and

westward with a free wind. r ro „„j ino n tlio

AVest of longitude 100°, and between the parallels of 5 and 10 N., tl.o

,-inds in the months of November and December, are variable between N.L.

::ds'o:th,by wayof East. In ^^7' ^^"^-^ ^ ^te' ol^^^^^
quite steady as N.E trades. In April they are variable. The doldrum
rrgonerally found between those parallels in this mouthy During the rest

of the vear the winds are all the time between S.E. and b.W.
"'it Xe well to cross the parallel of 10^ N. at least as far West as ^ho
meridians of 105° or 110° W. Here, between the parallels 5 and 10 JN ,
The wlTs in November are steady from S.S.E. and South ; December, April,
and May, are the months for the doldrums in this part of the ocean.

Having crossed the parallel of 10° N., between 105° and 110°. the navi-
eator is then in the fair way to California. ., , i •

irmaking the West coasts of Mexico and the United States, the kelp is
said to form an excellent landmark. This weed is very long and grows on
the rocks at the bottom. When, therefore, in approaching the coast, you
come across lines or swarths of tangled kelp, its being tangled or matted s
a sign that it is adrift. It is afloat in deep water, and you may sail boldly
through it without fear. Eut when you come across it tailmg out straight
it is then fast to the rocks at the bottom, and it is dangerous to get

^°v!l'ls out of San Francisco intending to touch at Panama or any of the
ports South should stand out well from the Mexican coast. Information as
I the best route for these passages is wanting. But I ^^^-l^'/f ^^J J
formation as I at present have with regard to this navigation, feel disposed,
were I bound from San Francisco to Panama, to steer straight for the line
Bomewhere about 104° W, and stand on South until I could, with the b.t..
trades run in on the starboard tack for the land.

In addition to this may be quoted a letter to Captain Maury from Captam
Bloomfield, a gentleman of twenty-five years' experience on that coast:-

I that hnlf
betwooti
isabree/e.
g airs, con-
found here
trades and
le, and be-

ray to cross
9, whenever
the latitude

tliward and

10° N., tlio
BtwoenN.E.
;h, they are
le doldrums
ing the rest

West as the

and 10° N.,

imber, April,

ean.

0°, the navi-

, the kelp is
md grows on
[le coast, you
L or matted is
y Bail boldly
out straight,
gerous to got

or any of the
nformation as
, with such in-
feel disposed,
bt for the lino
with the S.E.

jr from Captain
lat coast : —

PASSAGEy.

9R3

"Your own experience will have shown you that from Docembor to April
are the summer months or dry season ; the northerly wind provniling more
or less during the major part of iho time, it being the strongest about Janu-
ary and Fobruary, gradually taking ofT until about the middle of April, when
the winter months are supposed to commence, from May to August, when
rains, thunder, and lightning, with nearly daily thunder squalls intervene,
causing the winds to La as cliangoable during the twonty-four hours as often
as there are hours in the day.

" From August to December the weather booomos somewhat settled, and
commencing lightly with a southerly M-ind, in October and November, I have
seen it blow a moderate gale home to Panama anchorage, inasmuch as to
cause the merchant vessels to have two anchors down. The sea also becomes
somewhat rough, requiring more than ordinary care in landing in boats. It
is accompanied eometiraes with squalls and intermissions, but, generally
speaking, with cloudy but dry weather. I have at times experienced some
very clear niglits and days during this season.

" In leaving Panama it is easy to be done in either the summer, or when
the northerly winds prevail, or from August to December, when you generally
have a southerly wind, which will enable either to sail or work out of
the bay.

" The starboard or western in-shore should be kept in board by a sailing
vessel on leaving, and the eastern side inside the Pearl islands on entering,
except you are entering about the months of September, October, and No-
vember, when in all probability you would bring a strong southerly wind ;
but during the prevalence of the northerly and light winds, the eastern pas-
sage is beyond doubt to be preferred.

"If bound South, in passing Point Mala within three or four miles, the
greatest object is to get to the westward in 81° or 81° 30', in order to avoid
the strong current, rains, and light winds which prevail nearly all the sea-
sons of the year to the eastward of it, about the environs of Buena "\'entura.
In passing Point Mala, either with a northerly or southerly wind, make
your westing as soon as you can ; and by getting into the longitude above
named, it will enable you to reach the southerly winds sooner, either to en-
able you to make your westing up, if bound to the northward, to long. 110°
to 1 14° W.; or to work to the southward, taking advantage of every change,
until the latitude of Plata is reached, when the chore can be approached to
take advantage of the land winds, if taking the in-shore passage, or it \*ill
enable you to stand to the 8.W. if taking the oflp-shore passage.

" In working to the southward, after leaving Point Mala with a southerly
wind, do not be tempted, when on the starboard tack, to stand to the S.E.
and S. S.E. too long, as the current about 140 miles to the South of Point
Mala runs constantly to the eastwai'd. On some occasions I have known it

3q2

9<.4 PASSAGES.

«Pt-in fact, I have been Ret-3r, milos in 24 hours, ascertained by pocnl
chron.nnetor, and eonnrmed by making the land. Therefore .t .b always ad-
visable to hold on your ^.-eBtinp, even if you should make northmg ,n do.ng
so, and comparativoly little dilli.ulty ^vill bo attended in reachmg the south-
erly XN-inds, ^vhi.a^ ranges to different latitudes d.ving the 12 nionths ; as a

'^"'' From April, to I" North ; from May, to 2'' North; from Juno, to 3" North ;
from July, to ri' North ; from August, to C^ North ; from September, to 7
.10' North; from October, to Panama anchorage; from Novombor, to 7
North; ro.n December, to 5° North; from January, to 3° North; from
February to 2° North ; from March, to V North.

.'Therefore, after reaching the outer verge of the southerly wind, the next
object, more particularly if bound to the westward, is to be certain that you
entered it far enough, so as to reap the whole benefit of its strength wh:ch
you Avill find to be equally different in its position as the southerly wind
is reaching its northern limit ; but, generally speaking, when the northerly
V'inds do not prevail from off Point Mala to its (southerly wmd) hmits, u
prevails from S.W. to N.W.

Mr. Hull, E.N., of II.M.S. ITavanmh, says i—

" Lieutenant Maury truly says, ' that the passage under canvas from Pa-
nama to California, as at present made, is one of the most tedious, uncertain
and vexatious that is known to navigators.'

" The best way to avoid these difficulties seems to be by making southing
on leaving Panama ; do not care about making westing, but push South ; at
this time of the year (July and August) you will probably meet the S.E.
trade well over tbe line in 4^ or 5° North ; then run to the westwar^ till you
reach the meridian of 110" W. ; you may then crossover to the N.E. trade ;
keep well free. Ships generally make the best passages that have gone to
the westward of IW On running in for the land, make Punta de los

Keyes. ,

"These remarks are written partly from Lieutenant Maury, and partly
from my own experience in these seas. In H.M.S. Herald I made three
passages, two from Panama and one from Port Burica, which ^^ ab«"t 20^
miles to the West; the first took us 32, the second 42, and the third 28
days- to get clear of the variables in the passages we pushed to the west-
ward', keeping in about lat. 10° N. H.M.S. £nsk was 84 days from this
port to San Francisco, and in 1849 and 1850 ships were commonly 80

"-On the other hand, H.M. brig Swift, by going to the southward, made
the passage to Honolulu in 47 days, and one ship only made 45 days to Ca-
lifornia by adopting this plan.

" Again, the weather in the doldrums is most harassing-heavy rain, with

rl by good
always ad-
ig in doing
tho aoiitli-
nths ; as a

or.,')

I'At^SAdHS.

s'lUallH, tliundor, und lightuiag; wliomis by ffuin- South you liavo tiio ti
y.E. trades."

In a futuro paragmpli «onio further romarksou tho dilFicult navigation of
the Gulf of Tauama will bo givon.

to 3" North;
abor, to 7^
nbor, to 7'^
[ortli ; from

fid, tho next
lin that you
ngth, which
therly wind
ho northerly
d) limits, it

as from Pa-
ns, uncertain

ing southing
sh South ; at
Bet tho S.E.
ward till you
N.E. trade;
have gone to
Punta do los

y, and partly
[ made three
is about 200
the third 28
to the west-
lys from this
commonly 80

thward, made
15 days to Ca-

avy rain, with

CALIFOliXIA, ETC., To rEllIJ.

Most vessolH on this voyage malfo a mistake, especially in suinnirr and
fall, iu^tiio passage across tlio bolt of N.E. trades. IJoing anxious to got
to tho East, tlioy edge along, aiming to lose those winds in <)(Wor 1 ()()-, us the
caso may bo. Tlioro thoy oncountor tlio southwardly monsoons in tho' Pacific
off tho American coast as they aro ah.ng tho AlVicnn coa.st in tho Athmtic.
Tho vessels taking that course, and being so bafllod, havo now to niuko a
8hari> elbow and run off 8' or 10°, or oven more do},noo3 to the wostw ard be-
fore thoy clear th^ . belt of calms and monsoons and got the S.E. trades. Of
I'ourso the voyage is greatly prolonged by tliis.

The route which, as at present advised, I would recommend, is, tliat na-
vigators steer tlie same course from California that thoy would if bound to
tho United States, until they pass through the S.E. trades, and clear tlie
calms of Capricorn. Therefore I say to the Chiucha-bound trader, wlion you
get your offing from the heads, steer South, aiming to cross the lino not to
the East of 115•^ for the rule is, tho further East the liarder it is to cross tho
equatorial doldrums in the Pacidc as well as it is in tho Atlantic.

When you get the S.E. trades crack on with topmast studding-sail sot
until you get tho bravo West winds on the polar side of the calms of Capri-
corn. Now turn sharp off from the route around Capo Horn, and run west
until you bring your port to bear to tho northward of N.E., whou you may
stick her away. Now, by this rule the Cliincha-bound navigator may some-
times, before he gets those westerly winds, find himself as far South as 40°
or 45°, and as far East as 120^ or 125". Let him not fear, but stand on un-
til he gets the winds that will enable him to steor East, or until he intercepts
the route from Australia to Callao, when he may, without fear of not fetch-
ing, take that.

In the summer and fall of tho northern hemisphere (Juno to November)
tho calm belc of Capricorn will be cleared generally on the equatorial side of
tlie paraUel of 30° South ; at the other seasons you will havo frequentl v to eo
6° or 8° further. "

Central America, Mexico, Etc.

Our information as to the best means of making a pas.sago along those
coasts is still but scanty. Tlie following observations, therefore, by Lieut. -
Commander Jamea Wood, of U.M.S. Pandora, become exceedingly valuable.

gg,; I'ASSAGE8.

m a former page wo huvo giv.n the obHorvutiunH of the provalent windH in

tliiH reu'inn from the same ollicor.

V J ^/. 6.«M.«n^ to Pana,na Bay.-Yron. what haB been sa.d ro«p t.ng
the wind« which provuil within the first diri^ion, it w.ll bo neen that the
tZ'll the ou.hward to Panama Bay i« easily made during the greater
par of U year; but in the fine season, when within the influenco o the
no her . the following plan should be adopted. Make short tacks n.-shor.
asthere B generally a set to the northward found within a few mdes of the
la^^rlnd where that is interrupted, a regular tide is exchanged for a con-
iy contrary current further off. Between ^Hirambira Po. -J^^^^^^^^^
Corrientesthelandislow and faced with shoals, caused ^J ^e mouths o
the numerous rivers which have their outlets on this part of the coast, bu
after passing Cape Corrientes, it may bo approached pretty closely, except
fff r ancisco SoLo point, where some shoal rocky patches ex end to sea-
lard, as the coast is in general bold-to. Care, however. J^-M ^^J;'^ J
not t; run into the calms caused by the high lands, as ;t is difficult to get off
into the breeze again, and the swell sets in-shore where it frequently happens
that no anchorage is to bo found till close to the rocks.

In beaUng up the Bay of Panama in the fine season, the eastern passage

or that between the Islas del Eey and the main, is to be preferred, as, w th
on exception, it is free from dangers. The water is smooth, and a rogul r
tide enables yon to make more northing than it would bo possible to do m
nine cases out of ten, against the strong current, and short h,gh sea
vhich at this season prevail in the centre or on the western side. Dumg
The iny season, a straight course up the bay is preferable to entanglmg
yourself with the islands, the current generally following the direction of

'" /^° Pa««».« Bay io tk. Souih.ard.-But the great difficulty at all times
consists in getting either to the southward or --^-'^^^.^^^Tup t
passage to the southward is made in two ways.-either by beat ng up the
coast against a constantly foul wind and contrary current, or by standing off
sea Ull sufficient southing is made to allow you to fetch your port on the
aX rd ack. Both plans are very tedious, as it frequently takes twenty
r;! beat up to Gu4-aquil, whUet six or seven days are an average pas-

"C" »«.« Bay to ike 7r...«n.-If bound to the westward during the
northers, a great deal of time may be saved by keeping close in-Bhoie, and
thus takng advantage of them; they will carry you as far as the Gulf of
T^Vovr When past the Morro Hermosa, " Tapagajos" may bo be looked
TZ wlh them a course should be steered for the Gulf of Tehuantepec
^bertwiU depend on the port you are bound to, whether, after --«
rLlf by the aid of one of its gales, you should keep m or off-shore. If
b imd or Acapulco. keep in and beat up ; but if bound to the westward,

rA8SAcji:si.

067

winds iu

respecting
I that the
lie greater
nco of the
a in-shor' ,
,ilo8 of the
for a con-
and Capo
inoutha of
coast, but
lely, except
md to sea-
1 be taken
It to get off
tly happens

irn passage
od, as, with
d a regular
lo to do, in
•t high soa,
le. During
entangling
direction of

at all times
nama. The
iting up the
standing off
port on the
takes twenty
iverago pas-

i during the
n -shore, and
i the Gvdfof
bo bo looked
lehuantepec,
ifter crossing
uff-shore. If
ho westward,

you cannot do bottorU.au make ft West courno, as nearly as tho winds will
allow you.

Tho passage (o tho westward from I'anan.a du.iug the rainy season is a
most ted.nus afr«ir, calms, s,i„„Ils, contrary winds and currents, accmpanied
l.y a hoavy swell aud extreme heat, as well as an af.nusphero leaded with
moisture and rain, aro the daily ac...,npaniuionts. It often occurs that 20
nules of westing are not nnide in a week, and it is only by the industrious
use of every «,iuall and slant of wind that tbo passage can be made at all.*
Opinions are divided amongst the coast-TS as to the propriety of working lo
the southward and frying to get rid of the bad weather, or beating up within
a moderate distance of the land. My exporionco would lead me to prefer
the atter, as the strong winds and frequent squalls which so often occur near
the land sometimes allow a good long leg to be made to tho north-west-
i^ard, while, further off, this advantage is sacrificed for only a shade finer
weather.

From the Galapagos Islands to Cape St. Lucas.~I have already alluded to
tho difficulty of getting to tho westward from iho Bay of rananm. Tho
trade-wind sooms to possess no steady influence to the eastward of a line
drawn from Cape St. Lucas, in 22" N. to tho Galapagos islands on the
equator. Amongst those islands tho south-oastorn trade wind is steady
dunng nine or ton months of tho year, and it is onlv in Jar- nary and Febru-
ary, and somotimes March, that tliey aro interrupted by long calms and
occasional breezes North and N.W., but theso aro never of any great
strength. To the northward of them, tho eastern limit of the trade seems to
depend upon tho time of year. In tho early part of April I havo found it
between tho parallels of 8' and Vd-^ N., 900 to 1,000 miles further to the east-
ward than at tho end of June ; and iu the intermediate months, eitlier more
or less to tho eastward as it was earlier or later in the season, but in no case
that I havo met with has a steady or regular trade been experienced till the
above lino has been reached. It is this circumstance, and the prevalence in
tho intermediate space of westerly winds, calms, and contrary currents, that
makes tho passage from Panama to tho westward, as far as this line, so
tedious. I have boon forty days beating from tho entrance of the bay in'so"

* Of the tedious nature of this navigation, tho following sad account will be a good ox-
amplo:-The barque £«i,7y, from London, sailed from Panama for San Francisco on tho
.th of March (1852), and after being out NINETY-FIVE days put into San Lias, with ninc-
t^itn of tho passengers dead. The passengers were then transferred to tho ^IrchiMd Grace
■ind they were sixty-five days on tho passage to San Francisco, during which time eighteen
>"orc of tho pissengors died. The suflbrings endured by the unfortunate passengers is al-
»i08t beyond description. For the last thirteen days of the passage they wore on an allow-
ance of a pint of water per day, aud totally without provisions.

.„j„ PAHSAOES.

W.. to tl.o ouHtovu ...Ige of tlio tnulo in UP W., u distftncoof 1oh« tluu. '2,0W
inil,.s, or on nil ftvorag.^ abeiit 10 miles ^lor .liiy.

/Vom </»« J/.r,V/<Vm o/' Cp" St. Lnca. r..^.«r./.-Wh.n onco u.thm the
influnnc of tho tra.l.s a pasnago in eanily uuulo .,ithor to tho smithward,
weHtwar.1, or northward; but it lauHt bo born, in nund that tho casern
verge of thi. «.emH. in thene partH, to be inth.enced by tlio Hoanon.. IhuH,
in Jnne an.l July, I found it frenh from N.N.W., and oven at lunen N.W.,
aB far out as the meridian of 125" W., whereas in March 'vnd Apnl it was
liaht from N.N.E. to E. and E.S.E., from our f.rst moetmg it in 98 W., till
past tlie meridian of Cape St. Lucas in 110^ W., wliere I piched np a good

steady breeze from N.N.E. , , i

As a general rule the wind is found to haul more to the eastward as you
get farther off the land, and I did not lind tliis rule affected by th. latitude,
as although, as I have stated, tho wind hangs to the northward, and even
at times to tho westward of North, near the eastern limit of the trade, from
the tropic of Cancer to the variables near the cpator, I found it about the
meridian of the Sandwich islands as far to the oastsvard on and near the line
as it was in 35<' N., in which latitude tho westerly winds are in general
mot with.

The following remarks on tno passage f;-om South America to Central
America, are by Captain Lo Lapelin, who ^.•a8 sent in the French corvette
La Brilhnte to make a reconnaissance of the hydrography of the coast of
Central America in 1852.

Whatever may bo tho point of departure, the first track should tako nearly
en the meridian of the islands of St. Ambrose and Felix, in order to gain the
S E trades After that stem so as to pass some leagues to the West of
Point Aiuia, to gain the fine South and S.S.W. breezes which blow through-
out tho year, and will carry you up with Cape Blanco (Gulf of Guayaquil),
which should be made to correct the reckoning. Thence cross tho hno in
about 83» or 84" W., keeping 50 leagues at least from the Galapagos. From
tho equator the destination will regulate the route. If bound to the Gulf of
Didco or any point East of Pt. Ilerradura, in tho Gulf of Mexico, always
endeavour to make Point Burrica. If bound for the Gulf of Nicoya make
for Cape Blanco, and if for Kealejo, make for the Volcano el Viejo, from
whence you can easily fetch any point to the West of the Gulf of

Papagayos.

But if bound for Acajutla or San Jose do Guatemala, a direct route from
the line passes near to Cocos island, which being well laid down will make a
good point of departure, and then tho volcanoes of Central America form ex-
cellent landmarks for the ports, as described in the directions. But from
May to November, a period when these landmarks are seldom visible, the
high lands there being almost always hidden by haze, vessels from the South

m tliun 'J, 00(1

10 within tho
u Kouthward,
t tho eastern
iiHonH. ThuH,
i timt'H N.W.,
April it wiiH
in98"W., till
0(1 up iv good

(tward ns yon
y tlio latitudo
ard, and oven
he trado, from
I it about tho
d near tho lino
arc in general

ica to Central
^'rench corvette
of the coast of

luld take nearly
rdor to gain the

to the West of
I blow through-
of Guayaquil),
•088 tho lino in
alapagos. From
d to tho Gulf of

Mexico, always
)f Nicoya make
o el Viejo, from
>f the Gulf of

lircct route from
own will make a
America form ex-
tions. But from
dom visible, tho
Is from the South

I'AHSAGKy. ,i,;j

«hould nuiko fur Capo Ulan..., and thou fulh.w tho coaNt at a distance of 1:.'
to 15 miles, which can bo dono without .langor. Somo think that it is always
best for a vcssol from tho South to mako Capo Blanco of Guayaquil, and
then Capo Blanco of Nicoya, and th.'n by foilowi„fr th„ coast that thoy will
imd tho brco/os stronger and tho curn.nt always favourable.

Coast of Camjohnia.

Tho following briof instructions are derived from tho Report of tho United
States Surveyors : —

Sailing vessels bound to tho northward from Monterey, or any moro
northern port during tlio summer season, should stand well off-shore, m.t too
close hauled, until about l^OO miles from tlio land, when thoy will bo beyond
tho Jaflucnco of tho southerly current, and in a situation to take advantage
of u slant of wind which frequently occurs from tlio W.N.W. Tliey would
do well not to approach tlie land, unless favoured by the winds .so as to
enable them to lay tlioir course, or nearly so, until up wiih i ,'10 latitude of tho
destined port.

Steamers should follow the coast from point to point us nearly as possible
always keeping within 1.5 miles of the land. Th r will ly this nioanl
shorten tho distance, and frequently avoid tlio strong N.W. wind, as they
will off r 'iMd it quite calm close in with tho shore, when th- vo is a wind to
seaward.

Vessels bound to tho northward in the winter season should keep as close
along tho land as practicable, and take every advantage of all southerly
winds to mako latitude. Tlu,y should always endeavour lo mako tho
land at least 20 or 30 miles to the southward of tho destined harbour.

If bound to the southward keep the coast in sight, and take advantage of
ether tack upon which the most latitude may be made, always making tho
land to the northward of the port in summer, and to the southward in tho
winter season.

Bound to San Francisco or Monterey, use every opportunity to observe for
latitude or longitude, so as to know the vessel's position up to the latest mo-
ment, as fogs and haze, preventing observations, prevail near the land
AUow generally for a southerly set of half a mile per hour, until within
about 50 miles of the land; after which, at times, it is not appreciable
With these precautions vessels may steer boldly on, shaping a course for
the South Farallon, an islet about 250 feet high and a mile long, having
14 fathoms water and good holding ground on the S.E. side.

On approaching soundings the water becomes of a pale green colour
Soundings may be had in 60 to 40 fathoms, soft ooze, if approaching point
Eeyes. Below 40 fathoms is near the land, and tho surf should bo licard,
if haze prevents tho land from being seen. If the soundings aro 30 fathoms
or under, and tho sea smooth, anchor with >. kedge until the land becomea

'■«Sws®s3a^rKS!S5S3sa3Ss«rairCTESW!n0ro,w — i-

TASSAGES.
!ile, ,0 a, to take „ oo„,p»™ bc„i„«, a, t.. portion »an„t ot.o™Ue W

I,«idcthoFarall..,.» t ho -a - f / „„ „, „,. Mp, that

«.lu»hmaybeal)proacho<l «ithout risk, ]iO>p b

marks rocks imaor water.

San Fbancisco.

Mr. .avia«., U.S.K., >„ Us «-"- ^-rir^^ysCrr-
„.„nn.ca states, «'- «;;^r "; :^^^^^^ »*« r
::::;:L:::ir2sX;i-ro„rsh,,»,or^^^^^^^^

Z of tha voyages hoeo.o "^^^f -„^C " 1- N™ York during
;;.:3\"r;a:;ir;r.ar;ars3T3a..:voa .oar Boston, andthaavorago

passage was 136 days. averaging only 115 days;

In ^^^^^^f^''''''ZlJZ^yZ^,uil..r actual passage was 101.
tUo Sea Witck be.ng -P^f^^ ^ ^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^hat arrived from Atlantic poxts
The average passage of all Aiuoucan vcs

was 187 days. . ^ ^han 100 days-tho

r„ ift'il onlvtwo clippers made the passage

In 18ol only t 1 1 .^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^^ y^,]

S«ri>r«« in 96, and the i tyi> 9 ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ lushm

lu 1852 the Flying Fuh made it m 9» iiom

,,,,„■,. in 03, and the »"-'«' 'Xt;™;.;"*: in OS days, the «y»,

.rrnrsr :t :;;:rw« ^^ .. *». ««. vork , „.

Now York. . , ^ ^i (;;,.gat Republic in 02

'°ir,sr;hrj;t*;;::rLp-«« iu .00 day, aad t.o ^*».

J„cvt«.«iua9 day. from New York.

janr.ot otherwise he

or thoro are appear-
;lit, whon tlio morn-

(1.

Is tlio North shore,

lo of the kelp, that

r tho western coast of
voyages luado to and
ich year seeing some
rse the average dura-

•om Now York during
length of the passage
Boston, and the average

aging only 115 days;
ual passage was 101.
ved from Atlantic poi-t3

ss than 100 days— tho

New York.

, and tho Sword Fish in

vjying i'TsA in 92, John
a. New York.
i{ in 98 days, tho Flying
7, from New York ; and

he mrald of the Morning
and the Westward Ho in

e Sweepstakes in 94 from

I the Great Republic in 92
) the trip from Liverpool

10 days, and tho Andrew

I'ASSAGES.

971

In 1859 no vossel iiiiulo tlio passago in 100 days. Tho Andrew Jachon
luado the sliortost trip in 102 days from Now York.

In 18G0 tlio ship Hierra Nevada niado tho passage fi-om Boston in 97i
days, and tho Andrew Juchon from Now York in 90J days.

Tho sliortost pas.sago iiiado innix Now York to San Francisco by steam-
ship, via tho Isthmus of Panama, was by tho Moses Taylor, on the eastern
side, and the Golden Age on the western, thoir actiml running time It) days
23 hours ; total timo from dock to wharf 21 days, 2 hours, 13 minutes, arriv-
ing at San Francisco February 26, 1858.

Tho clipper Northern Light, of Boston, is reported to have made tho run
from San Frencisco to Now York, in ballast, in 75^ days, and tlio Trade
Wind, with cargo, in 84 days. Tho average timo of passage is about 100
days.

The average length of passages from other prominent ports is given for
the years 1857, 1858, and 1859.

From C/(/«« 32 vessels arrived in 1857, averaging 59 days, the quickest
trip from Shanghai being 34 days, by tho tern Spray, and from Hong Kong
in 35 days, by tho schooner Giulietta,

In 1858 28 vessels arrived, averaging 53 days, and in 1859 28 vessels,
averaging 54 J days.

From IIoHolulii 19 vessels arrived in 1851, averaging 19^ days, the shortest
trip being made by the barque Yankee, in 13 days.

In 1858 25 vessels arrived, averaging 15 days, tho shortest trip being
made by the barque Yankee, in 11 days. In 1859, 20 vessels ai-rived, aver-
aging 20 days, the shortest passage being by tho barque Onward, in 10
days.

For a period of five years ending August 1, 1859, a record was kept of
427 passages between San Francisco and Honolulu. The average timo of
224 passages from San Francisco to Honolulu was 16 J days, four being made
hi 9i days each. Tho average time of 203 passages from Honolulu to San
Francisco was 23 days, throe being made in 1 1 days each.

From Valparaiso 17 vessels arrived in 1857, averaging 54 days, tho shortest
passage being made by the Danish ship Velox, in 37 days. In 1858 16 ves-
sels arrived, averaging 73 days.

From Australia \^ yosfiola arrived in 1857, averaging 81J days out, the
shortest passage by the topsail schooner Faquero, in 57 days. lu 1858 14
vossola arrived, averaging 80 days, tho shortest passago being made by tho
Vaquero in 54 days. In 1859, 27 vessels arrived, averaging 76 days.

. n*iyiwsaiaii»^taBgi» »^<ii« i>^ ^a sa wa ^^

972

I-ASSACIES.

13Env'EKN Califouxia anu China.

,. ,. pvoecUn. pa...os .0 have ^U^u^d to^^T^i:"" ^^-
,uost excb.siv.ly govovnod by local causes, -'^ J^^^^^^^ ;^.^,^ ,,,„,

In getting beyond the verge d ^_^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ .^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^,,

embraces so many ^^^^-^ J ^ 2 ^ch is the shortesi as .ell as the best
eountries. it ^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^^^ J^^^ described in the passage between
com-se to puisuo. As ^e have ei ^^ ^.^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^.

Australia and the southern part of America, tn g

eomes fully '^-olopecl- eourse the readiest method is to

In the voyage '^^l^^^^^Jl as soon as convenient, and by these

S::^r:^l" :;:: wMch . t^s case brings the ship to her

^^— .urn voyage is a-..att..d^^^

B. „. N ; but the great cnclo eemse ^"^ '^ "^^^ ,„,. i.,„„a«, in.ide or

E., 80 tut it touel.0. the o«8te.-i, part o the M« '.pw s,

to^ho West of the Leoclt» i.U„a, a.u t ,.„ cut, theJX ^^^^^

r„rthe„..twa^it.tt„n, *. at, a « f^J^'^,,,,, ,,„ ,,,„.

roTo^ nT r^ -, r h„.„ ko„. ... ho„. ko„. ho„,

N W 5 N, from San Francisco.
^Tlhe.o..e.i.e..— .--

hoar at ouce to the -*-^^ ^^ "^"""1 he ..».ted by the strong
^pir XXr:"--.' U. inaueuoe ne», to the Weaa

first portion of the passage msiu i .^ ^^^

-r;r:.rei:=!rro:-.a..e.«wu-

niivigiitiou iil-
a; arc in ro-
icutivc i)liuos.
a track which
roen the abovo
ruU as the best
ssago between
I'clo course be-
st method is to
, and by these
the ship to her

'bosttracldeads
lie Basheo chan-
moisco, is about
runs first N. 46''
slands, inside or
capo of Nippon,
ide 169°W, and
) that San Fran-
ong Kong bears

.ely differing from
.ice for improving
China coast may
I the S.W. winds
ted by the strong
;he Japanese Ar-
f to the American

reous to malio the
id enter the North
direct track is nut
f means lengthened

) wide variation that

And by sptHiaUy

•n coast of America,

PASSAGES. 97,5

ami the ports on the opposite side of the rncifie, it will be manifest tliat a
^■.•ry great range of ocean is loft open to the navigator.

Beween toe Islands, Etc.

Samhvich Islamh to Tahiti.— Thcvo is groat difficulty in making this passage
across tlie trades. The wlialers and all otliors speak witli great doubt t)f
fetching Tahiti from the Sandwich islands. Captain Bruce says tliat a ves-
sel should keep to the northward until she gets a start of wind before bear-
ing for her destination. In his passage between them in November 1837,
lie had no variables near the line in coming Soutli, and never could
make eastiug on either tack, though he endeavoured by every means in
his power to do so.

The /wjoyrae loft Karakakooa Bay, October 17, 1837; and, reaching the
South point of the island after twenty-five hours' sail, bore away on a S.S.E.
course with a fiery trade at E.N.E. ; this failed on the 22nd ; the ship was
tacked to a southerly breeze, which lasted till the 25t]i, when a fresh S. by
E. trade sprang up. Between the 21st and 25th an easterly current set for
30 to 35 miles a day ; after that a westerly current of 16 to 40 miles per
day was found. Every opportunity was seized to gain easting, and to got to
windward of the meridian of Tahiti, but without success. The equator was
crossed on October 28th, in long. 154° 40', wind East by South, having been
on a bow lino ever since leaving Hawaii. Passed Bellingshausen island on
November 5th ; and, as the ship drew to the southward, the wind gradually
came to East, E.N.E., and N.E., always bringing the port directly in the
wind's eye. November 8th, passed Eimitara ; on the 9th, squalls, with most
terrific rain; on the 10th, the wind veered to N.W., and finally S.S.W. •
on the nth, saw Eurutu. The wind now favoured the ship, and for the
first time since leaving Hawaii slie laid her course, and continued to do
so. Bearing W.N.W. 7 or 8 leagues, made Tahiti on tho 13th, and an-
chored the same day at Papiote. Thus, had not a favourable cliange in
tho wind occurred in the latter portion of the passage, she would have been
to leeward.

In the passage from Tahiti to Hawaii, Captain Beechey says .-—From tho
time we passed Maiatea we endeavoured to get to the eastward, and to cross
tlio equator in about 150" West longitude, so that, when we met the N.E.
trade wind, we might be well to windward. There is, otherwise, some diffl-
culty in rounding Owhyhoo, which should be done about 40 miles to the
eastward to ensure the breezo. The passage betwoon the Society and Sand-
wich islands routes differs from a navigation between .the same parallels in
tlio Atlantic, in the former being exempt from tho long calms which same-
times prevail about the equator, and in the S.E. trade being more easterly,
llie westerly current is much tlie same in both ; and if not attended to in tho

TASSAOES.

11 1 * i.\,„ «on<lw=rh islands, sho will bo a long wuy lu " '

ZftT.^Xt\...n, up to tl...-(BeeoW'B Vo.ago. vol. .

page 230) ^^ ^^^ ^ g ^^pi„^i„g

^.ro«« the ^?«f 'p^!^.; ,X;e Northern Hemispbere, Capt. Wilkes
S,„.aron^ro. he^^^^^^^^^^^ I vessels bound to

,ay8:-"ItwilIbGappa ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^j,,

the northward and ^^^^^f^^^^^^^^ the practice, thus n^aking a very

"°' ir^o lithe 1'^^^^^^^^^ stay within the Trades ; and if this

they ought to make the shorteP^^ without regard to making

i. determined upon the^^^^^^^ entered the variables. It is, however, at
eastmg, until they have y ^^^^ _ ^^^ ^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^.

tiaies.verydoubtf«Where h^^^^^ whom I have consulted, they

perience goes and tha f ^'^^ | 20° N., to which parallel the

ought not t»^«-P-*;tt:ri^^^^^^^^^^ to be. with many, that on

Trades c .en reach^ .^^twestLg encountered, they are induced to be-
r rrJ Tor I:: nt, wL .ne times out of ten they will be

deceive . j^orfhward and Eastward.-lhe passages from the

Sandw,ch Islands to the ^f'^'w coast of America, are made by
Sandwich islands to any part o. th ^^J ^^^^^ ^^.^ ^,^^^^,,^ ,.,e„ ^he
standing to the northward till the we.to ly ^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^

ru. into the coast is easily ^f ' J ^^^ J" /^ j.'^ith the land,
C:::!^::;"^^^^ cU you down to the soutH.
^t this coast, as a genial rule t^ W s^uld be ma. to .e .rth-

::^:^a::^^^^^- ----- ^""^^"^'^ "^•'

' wTyCetween theparallels of 1. and 2.N. the Sandwich islands
Thougn ying ^.^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^ g^los

rTrl 8 Wbttfl the rest of the year the trade wind blow.
from South and S^W but ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^,

pretty steadily. In "^^^'^^l J^^^ ^rade as near the wind as the top-
Peru, the best way " «;\^f ^^^^J^Hrection of the wind is i. general

islands by one of the cieai cuu ^^^^ ^^.,^

use trying to fetch to the eastward of these, as not oniy y

. .. L-I^M--*I ll'—l'l"! 'I * ■ — ■

PASSAGES.

97")

reaches tlip
tward, and
ago, vol. i,

Exploring
apt. Wilkes
8 bound to
ake for the
iliing a very
me, besides
however, is

long. 180^:
; and if this
i to making

however, at
ar as our ex-
isulted, they

parallel the
any, that on
iduced to be-
, they will bo

ages from the
are made by
ed, when the
if bound to a
ith the land,
to the south-
to the north-
wind and cur-
i to Capo Cor-

ndwich islands
ezes and gales
ie wind blows
)aBt of Chili or
ind as the top-
nd is iu general
ass the Socioiy
. It is of little
you lose much

time by huggmg tlio wind too close, but also tho strong current, whidi sets
to tlve westward from 20 to 40 miles a day, is pretty sure to drift you that
m,.ch to leeward ; and even were this not the case, so diffi.-ult, tedious, and
dangerous is tlio navigation amongst tho areliipolago of low coral islands
which he to tho eastward, that, unless you can weather tho Marquesas al-
..gether, ,t .s better even to bear up, than to entangle yourself in such a la-
byrinth. After passing the Society islands stand on to the southward till
in or about tlie .30th parallel, when tlio westerly winds will be found These
will carry you into the coast; care being taken, as on the northern coast
not to bear up when within tho influence of the southerly winds, till near
enough to tho land to ensure keeping them down to your port.

Tho foregoing will be all that is necessary to elucidate tho navigation of the
North Pacific Ocean, which is very simple when away from tlio land influ-
ences which cause the embarrassing winds, calms, and currents, whicli Imvo
been aUuded to. The illustrative charts of the Wimh, Currents and Pas
sages, will enablo the navigator to choose tlio best route and readiest means
of shortening a passage not specifically described.

In closing this book, which may be taken as the concluding volume of tho
series of six which describe the great oceans of the world, the author has
much gratification in mentally reviewing his past labours, and the pleasures
It has given him to collect the funds of varied information they contain
The coasts of the whole world have been described in them. The ports open
to its commerce, the dangers which are to be avoided by its mariners, tho
innumerable features of interest and wonder which distinguish its shores
are more or loss minutely described or alluded to. The marvels of the
ooeans themselves, their depth, and the mighty circulatory systems which
give but one uniform characteristic to the world of waters, the effects of the
winds which blow over them, the meteorological influences which affect the
sailors' avocation in every quarter of the globe, are aU, it is trusted, faith-
fully r j^ 3ented in them.

In full confidence of their utility as thus collected, the especial thanks of tho
author are now accorded to all who have added to that rich mine of liydro-
graphical literature, from which he has been able to di-aw the materials for
tliese books.

In tlie preface to this, as in those to his other works, these o])Iigations are

PASSAGES.

more especially partioularisod, and it ia earnestly hoped that no source of
information has been overlooked, or that thoro is any omission of acknow-
ledgement to those who have furnished the materials for thorn.

t no source of
m of aoknow-

I N D E X.

Aamak Island, 518

Aba Bay, 680

Abatanok Island, 507

Abbey Hill, 197

Abbev Point, 896

Abbey Keef, 897

Abolochoff Bay, 539

Abre-ogo, 891

AbreqjosPoinl, H5-6

Acahi-Panahi Point, 801

Acapulco, 79, 90, 92, 94, 914

Acajutla, ,3, 63, 68, 70

Achacbinskoi and liny, 502

Acland Islands, 303

Acoucheki Island, 893

Active Cmvo, 280

Active Pass, 287, 291, 304-5

Adair Bay, 132

Adakh Island, 514

Adam Peak, 901

Adams, Point, 231, 234-5

Addonbrooke Point, 426

Addington, Cape, 468

Adelonp Point, 801
Admiral Island, 294, 298.

302, 306
Admiralty Inlet and Head,

257-8
Admiralty Island, 459. 464
Adreanoff Islands, 500
Aektok Island, 507
Affleck Canal, 457
Afognac Island, 493, 496
Afnora,l9, 20
Afnera, Silva de, 23
Afalfa Morro, 128
Agamemnon Cbanncl, 403
Agana, 799, 801
Agat, 799, 801
Agattou Island, 516
Ageach Island, 502
Agenhu Island, 897
Agfayan Bay, 803
Agrigan Island, 804, 814
Agougak River, 620
Agua, Volcan do, 3, 73, 74
Aguatulco, Port of, 90
Aguijan Island, 804
Ahayan Point and Bay, 798
Ahmcn Creek, 211

North Pacific.

Aian, Port, 571

Ailinginao Island, 727

Ailinglabelab Islands, 730

Ailuk Island, 724-5

Aino Sinia, 675

Airik Island, 722

Ai Sima, 602, 607, 664, 666

Ajayan and Point, 798, 801,
803

Aji llivor, 611

Ajikawa River, 611

Ajiro Biij', 632

AJuja, Rio, 34

Akamokum Island, 775

Akasi Strait, 609, 610

Akenose Jlisaki, 608

Akin Roof, 891

Akona District, 836

Akoun Island, 507

Akoiitan Island and Strait,
607,608, 511

Akoimskoi Strait, 607

Akunora, 678

Akuisi Sima, 893

Alaid Island, 562

Alamagan Island, 813
Alan Poin* and Island, 265

268
Alarm Rock, 300, 301
Alaska, 918
Alaska Coast, 443
Alaska Torritorj-, 435
A lava Point, 460
Albcrni Inlet, 328, 331, 337
Albert Head, 319
Albert Peninsula, 689
Albion River, 204
Alcas Rock, 548
Alcafraz Island, 92, 186.

187, 191
Alcmcno Island, 892
Allien Bank, 276-7, 280, 289
Alert Bay, 418
Alert, Port, 700
Alet Island, 761
Aleutian Islands, 498, 504
Alexander Point, 404, 465
Alexander, Port, 420, 421
Alexandrofl'sk, Fort, 489
521 '

Aloxnndrovskj', 582
Aloxinoy Islnmi, 502
Algorino Bluff, 673
Aliaska, 501, 604, 518
Alice Thorndyko Roof, 703
Alijos, Los, 858
Alijos Rocks, 145
Ali Sima, CI 7
Alitok Bay, 496
Alki, 260

Allen Bank, 259, 261
Allen Island, 716
Allen's Islands, 134
Almagro Island, 129
Almejas Bay, 141
Aloupan Island, 800
Alpha Island, 325
Alseya River, 228
Altar, 130
Aitas, Sierras, 175
Altata and River, 124
Althorp, Port, 469
Altona Gulf, 476
Alutung Island, 800
Amagi-yama Mount, 032
Amakusa Island, 681
Amantes, Point de los.

802
Amapala, Gulf of, 66, 58
Amapala Mountain, 59
Amatignak Island, 615
Amatitlan Lake, 73
Ambemoh River, 780
Ameca Bay, 104
Araelius Point, 457
America Bay, 589
American Anchorage, 641
-American Islands, 099
Americano, Estoro, 200
Amherst Rocks, 683
Amlia Island, 612
Amphitrito Channel, 564
Amphifrite Point, 340
Amsterdam Island, 851
Amtschitka, Capp, 508
Amtsch'itka Island, 504, 515
Ainnrtajada Bav, 137
Amoughta Island and Chan-
nel, 611
Amur Bay, 688

3 R

97H

INDEX.

Amur Rivor, r>fi7, "rTS
Amur, (iiilf of, 680, Ml
Amytidrn luliiiid, "OO
Aim'cipa Islan'l, Kil, 10!)
Aiincliorrtcs Islanil, 776
Aniidyr.sk, fill!
Aiindyr, Ciulf of, 511
Aiuiiiyr Kivcr, 516
Atiniiffn-urn, (ilo
Atiatajiin Islimd, 811
Aniitiixiin Islaiid, 811
Aiuliorauo iMlaiid, 3(10, 618
Anchoiitrs Island, 770
Anrlior I'oint, lOO
A neon, Corro, 11,13
Anda-rivol, The, 73
Andenia Islands, 7f")l
Andorson iHland, 203, oSl
Andreanoff Islands, 1)11,514
Androws Island, 859
Andrews, Port, 488
Angftligarail Island, 704
Anffaur Isliind, 775
Antfi'l do la Guardia Island,

133
Angol Island, 189
An(,'ol(>s Bay, 131, 134
Anfjfdos Island, 133
Anfjolep, T,o8, 100
Anuolps, Port, 91
AiiKfilos Point and Port,

254-6
Anian, Strait of, 257
Anil Island, "21
Aiiiinak Island, 503
Anita Rock, 188
Aniwa, Capo nnu Bay, 573,

577
Anmor Point, 462
Anna Island, 783
Annette Cropk, 304
Anonima Island, 759
Ano Nncvo Point, 177, 180
Anson Road, 805
j^nson Shoal, 817
Ant Islands, 751
Anvil Island, 399
Anvil Peak, 385
Aoua Island, 028
Aosinia vama, 009
Aoiniii Sima, 064-5
Aoma Island, 742
Apaiann Island, 708, 716
Apaiiiana Island, 714
Apai)a Island, 800
Apox Strait, 609
Apho"n River, 524
Apia Island, 716
Apollos Island, 891
Apple-tree Cove, 259
Apra Island, 800
Apua, 825

Apurguan Point, 801
Arabia Shoal, 859, 861
Arachne Reef, 296
Arago, Cape, 224
Aragouzet Islands, 772
Arakamtchetchen Id., 539
Aruktcheoff Islands, 722

AranjiiPi', River, 37
Araiiidia Island, 708, 713
Arari Uny, 023-4
Arari I'oint, 018
Ara Sima, 624
Araiifu Barlia Point, 42
Arholcta, 126
Arlmtus Island, 207
Arrlianfffl (Jaliriel Hav, 510
Andianffd, New, 473. 920
Archinii'de Island, 893
Arch Rork, lh8
Ardcn Point, 462
Ardilla Island, 129
Arena Point, 203
Arenas, Puntaa, 4
Arenas, Punta, 37
Aronitas, Piinta, 31
Arguello Point, 1 72
Arj^un Hiver, 684-5
Arhno Island, 721
Arimoa Islands, 780
Aiispe, 123
Arita Itiver, 016
Arizona, 131
rtrmourn River, 642
Armstrong, Port, 468
Arno Islands, 722
Arnold's I'oint, 132
Arnold Rock, 357
Arore Island, 710
Arran Rapids, 410
Arrocifos Islands, 733
Arrinan, Islands, Las, 133
Arrowsmith Island, 721
Arrowsmith, Mount, 393
Arteek Island, 773
Arthur's Island, 732
Artingale District, 773
Am Point, 745
Aru Rock, 648
Ann-ai Island, 710
Arvata, 208
Arzoliispo Islands, 878
Asan Island, 796.
Ascension Islands, 743
Aseradores Island, 50, 52
Asia, East C.tpo of, 629
Asia Islands, 781
Asina Hav, 638
Aska Sima, 669, 685
Aspinwall, 12

Assatchinskoi Volcano, 561
Asses Ears, 10
Asses Ears Group, 682
Assinia- Islands, 662
Assumption Island, 815
Astlev, Point, 462
Astoria, 238-9, 446, 916
Astor Point, 238-9
Astrolabe Gulf, 778
Astrolabe Rock, 661
Atami, 637
Atcha Island, 612
AlhoB, Mount, 540
Atitlan Volcano, 73, 74
Atkins Reef, 306
Asuncion Island, 146, 815
Atkha Island, 512

Atkinson Point, 384-4. 3!il)
Atkis, Port, 654
Atlantic Island, 742
Atooi Island, 818, 852
Atns ('r.ek, 178
Atowai Island, 852
.\tsusi-no O sima, 068
Atteheun, Cape, 543
Attou Island, 606, 510
Auau Clianni 1, 844
Auihincia, Punta do 'a, 98
Au!;\ista, Point, 408
Augusta, Port, 394-5
Aurh Island, 719, 722
Austrn, Cape, 52
Avatcha Volcano and P>ay,

551, 555, 658
Av( s Islands, 37
Aviiiotf, Cape, 622
Avos Rock, 564
Awadji, 610
Awadsi Island, 609
Awi' Peninsula, 633
Awa Sima, 008 657-8
Aw;itclia l\'oad, 555
Ayak Island, 527
Ayan, Port, 571
Ayougadaeh Island, 616
Ayucn, Jlorro, 85
Ayuta do Santiago de Ysfa-

pa, 85
Azada Island, 117
Aziak Island, 527

Rebelthunp Island, 773
Paboushka Island, 566
Rabonshka Rock, 658
Bacon Hill, 323
Bache, Mount, 179
Bagona Hills and River, 112
Bahia Houda, 19
Babia Ona, 160
Baikul Lake, 584
Bailey Islands, 884
Bainbridgo Island, 260
Bainhridge Port, 486
Baja, Punta, 127
Bajo Point, 354
Bajo Rajado, 26
Bajo Reef, 350, 351
Bajo Reef, Inner, 354
Baker's Bay, 232, 238, 241
Baker Island, 703
Baker Mount, 267
Baker Pass, 405
Baker Point, 466
Balaclava Island, 421
Balbi Point, 687
Balch Passage, 263
Bald Head, 526
Bald Pate Mount, 181
Bali Island, 789
Ballast Point, 166
Ball Cape, 439, 443
Ballenas Bay, 145
Ballena, Rock I^a, 34
Balleua Port, 137
Rallenas and Bay, 194-6
Ballonita Rocks, La, 34

m I ■■iwii

TXDKX.

32S,

Billinac IsliiuJ and C'lmn-

nol, 391-2
]{.ill()uzek Capo, ,591
JJilsa, Puntadc; l,i, 180
l»alHho Uiirtla, IJiko, 4«1
Itiiltasar lliiad, 18
Hanil) I Hay, 8.5
namliold Crock, ;J2i)
Haiiaba iHlanil, 717
l<aiico, I'liiita d. 1, ;u, 32
ilanks Mind, 430. 432
Hauks, roit, 470
Haraco, 27
Haranea Jtivor, 37
Ilaranoir Island, 467-8
Harbncoas, 12
Uarhadoos Islands, 723
IJarl^ary Island, 703
ilarbcr Island, 703
Barclay Sound, 31:

332, 337
Haro Island, 288, 292, 295
298, 342, 369 '

Bare Point, 299
Bardf iir Pass, 400
Baring Islands, 730-1
Barlow Covo, 4G3
Barnabas, Cape, 496
Barnott, Cape, 458
Barnes Island, 276
Barnovold's Island, 625
Barney's Hock, 859
Barnpool, 897
Barracouta Harbour and

Bay, 580, 581
liarracoutft Hock, 676
ijarra del Espiritu Santo, 65
Barra Falsa, 52
Barren Island, 405
B.trr Island, 721
B irrick Kock, 057
Barrie Point, 456
Barrier Group, 359, 36:'
Barrier Island, 572
B.irrow Bay, 899
Barter Cove, 302
B:irtholonie\v Island 7
Bartlett Island, 343 '
Base Flat, 394
Base I'oint, 346
Bass Reef-tiod Islands 722
"assiosus Island, 866
Bat Islands, 41.
Battery Point, 212, 260, 599
Battle Bay, 303, 364
Battle Kock, 221
Baubelthouap Island, 773
Ban Island, 930
liaiigno I'oint, 800
Bawden Bay, 347

B 1x0 Trista Island, 754
"aynes Channel, 325

BaynesSonnd, 391—393
Bayonetji Island, 7
liayonnaiso Isl md, La, 029
•>ay Rook, 08 J
I'.izan Port, 458
"■izil Point, 487
Buiton Hill, 323

879

Beaeon Point, 10
B.Nicon Book, 389
Beak Point, 39t
Beaie, Capo, 329, 331, 333
11' ar Creek, 200
Hiaton Inland, 452
Beauelore, Port, 457
BraiiCort Mountains, 391
395 ' •

Boaver Covo, 4, 417
Beaver Harbour, 4Itf
Boaver Point, 302
Boaver Koek, -.(13
Boeher Bay, 317
Beclier Mount, 395
Bole Point, 489
Bedford Isliinds, 317
Be.lwell Harbour, 291
Bedwoll Irdet, 309
Bcdwell Sound, 344
Beechoy Head, 317
Beechoy Group, The, 880
Boo Islands, 4U7
Begg Kock, 108
Bohm Canal, 450
Behring Bay, 476, 477
Behririg Cape, 644
Behring Island, 548
Bohring Sea, 517, 498, 920
Beliring Strait, 529
Behring Vessel Bay, 546 I
Bolhoula, 428 I

Belle Hock, 274-5
Boll Island, 451
Belitre Point, 23
Bella Coola Kiver, 428
Bellingham Bay, 208, 274
Bellingshausen, Cape, 576
Bello, I'orto, 10
Beluiont Point, 355
Benado Islands, 16, 24, 27
Benoist Mount, 779
Bentinck Arms, 427
Bentinek Island, 318-19
Bentinck Point, 483
Beruer Bay, 466
Bemizet Peak, 573
Berry Point, 387
BLTiiand Island, 778
Besborough Island, 525-20
Best Island, 789
lietcheviuskaia Bay, 655
Bierka Island, 4 73
Bigali Island, 762
Bigar or Bikar Island, 725
Bight Cove, 354
Bikini (or Bigini) Islands,

Bingham Point, 470

Bingo Xada, 001, 006, 010

Binzli Keet; 018

Biorka Island, 475

Biich Bay, 209

Bird Island, 295, 724, 810,

Bird Reef, 299
Bird Rock, 188, 193, 274
275 '

Bird's Cajie, 515

liii'd's-eye Cove, 299
Hirds iNlands, 337
I'irnie Island, 433, 449
liiro Sima, 072
Riithday Cliannol, 357
Bishop Island, 707, 711
Bishop Junction Inlands,

Hi^hiip Rook, 105, 88S-9
Jlittern Reeks, 040, 058
Jilt uinen Springs, 100
Biwa, Lake, Oil, 003
Black and White Rock, 007
Black Cape, 509
nhi(!k Head, 98
Black Isbinds, 283
Black .Mountain, 180
Black Point, 187
Black Rock, 318, 338, 030,

Out}

Blacklock Shoal, 701

Blagniero Point, 454

Blake Island, 261

Blako Reef, 892

Blakely Harbour, 260

Bhmco, Capo, 35, 39, 222

645, 914

Blanco, Fort, 185

Blancos Islands, 98

Blaney Island, 713

Bhguii, Cape, 509

Bhgh Island, 352, 353, 484

Blijni Islands, 605, 516

Blind Bay, 286

Blind Creek, 405-6

Blind Roof, 356

Blinkinsop Ray, 415

Blonde Reef and Point, 830

Blossom Reef, 896-7

Blossom Rock (removed),

115,188,193 ^

Blue Mount, 197

Bluff, Cape, 233

Bluff, Fort, 106

Blunden Island, 290, 291
342 ' . ^ ',

Blunden Point, 391

Blunt, Cape, (H7

Blunt Isl.ind, 207, 326

Blunt's Rucks, LiOO-7

Blyde Berg, 057

Blying Sound, 48S

Boat River, 308

Boatswain Bank, 297

Bobrovaia Boy, 508

Bobrovi Island, 534
Boca Baria, 83
Boca Biava, 24
Boca-del- Inferno, 352
Buca San Pedro, 28
Bodega H(;iid and Bav, 200
Bodega, Port, 920
Bodisko Peninsula, 587
Bolano Island, 27
Bolchcrelsk, 501, 568
Bolchoireka River, 508
Bold Bluff, 298, 308, 370
Bolshaya River, 508
Uoniasiri laluud, 578

OHO

llona Islnnd, 15
Uoiiii Vixta IbIuivI, «0«
Uon.t'i I'oiiit, 1H4, VM
llonliiim iHlinila, Tir>, 730
Hoiiillu IhIiiu-I, 2(17
H<milla roiut, '2^1, :)!_♦, 320
Hunin iHlnndu, r)K7, H7«
Miiniict Isliiml, 670
ItootCovo, 2i)0
ItorddliiiKO iHliintl, 753-4
Uorodino UlanilB, 890
UnrrouMh Buy, 45V
HoKhi Ynmii, 672
Hosphdrus, EiiHtorn, oRO
lloslon iBlands, 731
Itottlo Hock, 620
Boudouse Iidiind, 770
UouBainvillo Mount, 779
Boughcy Uiiy, 416
HouguenifU, 721
Bouldor, 299
Houldor Point, 400, 415
Bouldyr Inland, 616
Boundiirv Bay, 209
Boungo Channel, 596, 600
Bourdicu Bay, 490
Boussolo Chnnncl, 602
Bowen Island, 385, 399, 400
Bowyer Island, 399
Boyarin Bay, 689
Boylo Islands, 423
Brace roint, 261
Brackenridge Bluff, 247
Bradfiold Canal, 464
Braithwaite Bay, 787
Brama Toint, 779
Brancas Piodr»«, 92
Brandlcn Eyland, 627
Brat Chimoef Island, 665
Brava Island, 27, 28
Brava Point, 9, 17
Bridget Point, 466
Bright Is-land, 306, 424
Brincanoo Island, 22
Bristol Bay, 446, 620, 621
British Columbia, 376, 42u
Brito, 46

Britomart Reef, 816
Broken Channel, 342
Broken Group, 335
Broken Head, 590
Broken Islands, 334-5, 410,

626
Broken Point, 285
Brood Rocks, 626
Brooke Island, 697
Brooks Bay, 365, 367
Brooks Island, 869
Brooks Peninsula, 36-5
Brooks Shoal, 863
Broom Tree, 239
B others Island, 323
Brothel s Islands, 781
Brotchv Ledge, 320, 322
Brothers Point, 102
Brothers Rock, 658
Brothers Rocks, 671
Broughton Bay, 902
Broughton, Capo, 654

INDFX.

Brouj;hton iHliind, 56")
BiouKhlon Hiruit, 417, 41»
Broughton Hock, 028
Brown Channel, 590
Brown Island, 27S, 284
Brown Itdandn, 729, 732
llrown Pass, 432
Brown Point, 240
Browning Cnaiinol, 423
Browning f>( ek, 370
Browning Harhour, 290
Browning Pass, 34'>, 421
Browning Bock, 410
Bwco, Port, 588
Bruja Island, 130
Bruja Rock, La, 25
Bruja Point, 15, 93
Bryant Point, 487
Brydone Island, 591
Buaeho Mount., 739
Bucareli, Port, 458
Buchan, Monto do, 173
Buckknd \A:m\, 880, 884
Buck Point, 438, 441
Bucksport, 208
Budds Harhour, 255
Budds Inlet, 262
Buona Point, 41
Buenaventura River, 9
Buenaventura, S«n, 161
Buey Bank, 6
Buoy Point, 12
Buey Rock, 20
Bufadoro, 90
Biiisaco Island, 634
Bull Harbour, 420, 422
Bull Pass, 402
Bull Rock, 335, 371
Bullock Bay, 592
BuUuck Bluff, 406
Bultig Island, 781
Bune Sima, 878
Bungalow Island, 893
Bunker Island, 69, 864
Bunkey's Island, 769
Bunn, 667
Bunsby Island, 363
Buonaparte River, 375
Buoy Rocks, 687
Burdwood Bajr, 408
Burdwood Point, 351
Burgess Island, 342, 347
Burgoyne Bay, 298
Burial Island, 298
Buries, 31

Buricaor Burrica Ft., 28, Zv
Burke Canal, 427, 428
Burnt Hill, 309
Burnt Island, 611, 614
Burrard Inlet, 378, 384-5
Burrows Island, 268, 875
Burruca, Rio, 34
Bush Point, 268
Btishy Island, 455
Bute Inlet, 406, 409
Butaritari Island, 717
Button Islands, 725
Bycrs Island, 874
Byki, Capo, 582

Byron's Bay, 82fl
Byron Island, 700, 710

Caamano, Capo, 462
Cahallo, 21
t'ahallos, Puerto, 50
Cabrn, Cirro do, 15
Cal ras I«land, 800
I'atira Sjiil, 15
Cabrn, Tctas do, 128
Cacique Point, 40-1
Cactus Island, 292
Cadboro Bay, 324
Cadboro Point, 289, 32o
Cadiak Island, 493
Cagavts Island, 37
Cahoos Riv. r, 225
Calalan Ueefs, 800
Calandnro Point, 117
Calderas, 3, 3()
Calder, Mount., 450
Cale<lonia Bay, 6
California, 152 .

California, Gulf and Penin-
sula, 119,121, 123
Callam Bay, 254
Call Creek, 410
Calm Channel, 409
Calvor, Cape, 319
Calvert island, 426, 722
Calvillo, 131
Camden, Port, 460
Camira Island, 875
Gammas Plains, 217
Campania, Islado la, 430
Campbell Point, 492
Campbell Rtef, 764
Camp Bay, 291
Carop Cove, 286
C.imp lsb»n<l, 407, 409
Camp Point, 414, 417
Campeche, Oulf of, 82
Camuta Rios, 97
Canal Island, 19
Canas Island, 8
Canaveral, Port, 432
Candadillo Point, 64
Canoo Island, 282, 309
Canou Roff, 346
Canoo Rocks, 290
Oino Island, 33, 35
Canon, Grand, 132
Caoba, 72
Capalita River, 89
Capeniur Island, 725
Capero, Sierra, 16
Capper Island, 869
Capper's I^land, 789
Capricieuso Bay, 587
Capstan Island, 337
Capstan Head, 896, 897
Captain Bay, 507
Captain Pass, 303, 307
Caracolito Island, 61
Carapellas Islands, 772
Cardon Chan. & Id., 50, 62
Cardon, False, 5o
Careen Creek, 282
Ciiroy Ishind, 26

INDEX.

081

00, 710
, 46-i

0, /)(»

800

), V2»
40-1

29'2

280, 325
Wi

1, 37
225
8UU
lit, 117

., 460
,

If and I'onin-

11, 123

, 409

319

I, 420, 722

, 460

1,876

[18, 217

liidolii, 430

nt, 492

sf, 7o4

i)l

286

, 407, 409

414,417

ulfof, 82

,97

,19
1,8

■ort, 432
•oint, 64
1, 282, 309
346
1,290
, 33, 35
id, 132

rer, 89
land, 725
•ra, 15
nd, 869
and, 789
Bay, 687
ind, 337
ad, 896, 897
y, 607
it, 303, 307
Island, 61
[elands, 772
in. & Id., 60, 62
Iso, 65
ck, 282
id, 26

Cariboo, V'l

Cirnml Diiy and Point, 175,

170
Carmen, Inland dol, 135,

l.'iC.
Ciiroliiia Clmniiul, IttO
C'U'oliiiu Arcliipi'liiuo, U'Jt,

734
Caroline Reof, 325
C.irr Hunk, 'SI
Cn-iiijjton lliiy, 400, 407,

40!)
Curr's Inlot, 202
C;irtor Buy, 429
Cartorot ll.'of, 782
(.iiirlwrijiht SuiinJ, 438,441
Cawirei, 47
Casayii Island, 7
CnHCiido Bay, 280
CaNcadn Caiml, 428
CascHdo Mountains, 217,

2(iO, 370
Ciso's Inlet, 262
Ca.Mo)ios IhIiiiiiIh, 733
C.issini Inliind, 587
('istanon BliilF, 52
('.'istHnon Inlandi', 50
Castillos, La Villa do los,

113
Ciistlo Point, 424, 590
Ciistricum, Capo, 5('0
Castrit'H Bay and Point, 680,

582
Casy, Cape, 587
Catala Island, 356
Catnliina Island, 136
Cutalina Point, 40
Ciit-faco Alountaina, 343,

347
Catharine, Capo, 580
Cathcrino Islandt), 728
Cattlo lalHnds, 420
Cattle Point, 277, 320
Caution, Capo, 426
Caution Point, 279
Cavalloa, Punta do los, 189
Cayado Hills and Capo, 23,

24
Cebaco Island, 17, 18
Cocillo Archipelago, 892
Cecil Rock, 297
Codros Island, 147
Cidotso Ilivor, 228
Celia Reof, 296
Ceniza Fair, 04
Cenizas Head, 150
Central America, I
Centre Island, 407, 422, 634
Centre Reef, 292, 300, 340
Centre Rock, 325, 405
Corralbo Island, 138
Cerisy Peak, 777
Cerro Morro, 83
Cerros Island, 147
Chacala, 104
Chacktool'i Bay, 524
Chacon, Cape dc, 463
Chripamil Mountain, 510
Cliagrcs, 12

Cliain Islands, 321, 303
Cliain Island, 3:15
Chaktoliniout Buy, 521
ClitiliiltenaiiKo, (13
Clmliii Anita, (!iipe, 709
Clmlmcrs, Port, 4H7
Cluililiio Islan I, 441
(■liamo Bay and Point, 15
Chnnii'lii, 103
Chamutla llilU and River,

112
Chamis Bay, 301
Cliainisso, i'ort, 750
Chaneellor Channel, 415
Chanijarnii, 14
Chiinnel Ishind, 341, 403
Chaiin'd Islets, ;.02
Cliannel Point, 325
Channel Reof, 334, 337, 357,

307
Chapera Island, 7
Chap. in, C.ii)o, 511
Clinreo Azul, 28
Chitrlos Island and Rock,

281, 304. 306, 307
CharlottH Island, 710
Chasinlzoflr, 453
Chat Chan Point, 360
Chatham Bay, 090
Chatham Chiinnel, 416
Chiitliam Islaii.ls, 325, 723
Chatham Strait, 459, 404-5,

407
Chatham Point, 411, 413
Chatham, Port, 489
Chatham Sound, 431-2
Chehalis River, 240-7
CheliK'hoff, or Chelekhoff

Strait, 496, 407, 520
Chelnitt Islands, 731
ChemainoH Bay, 299, 300
Chopillo Island, 10
Chepo River, 10
Cherry Point, 297
Chostakoff Island, 619
Ciioss Board I.slands, 770
Chet-ko River, 219
Chihoko, 631
Chica, Boca, 28
ChichaifofT Island, 407
Chichakoff, Cape, 698, 635,

922
Chicaylis River, 217
(^hichaldinskoi and Volcano,

606
Chicapa River, 83
Chicareno Point, 59, 02
Chichkoff, Cape, 606
Chief Rock, 363
Cliigah Island, 654
Chikotan Island, 654
Chilhat, 466
CbimaltenanKo, 3
Chiman and River, 9
Chimmo Bay, 28
Chimney Rock, 898
Chimsain Peninsula, 434
Chinche Island, 20
Chinchc Bay, 20

Chinrmlru;.!, Old, 40
Chiiiiitskuy Bay, 104
Chiiiois River, 247
Chinook Point, 211
CUiiiuiito River, 790
Chipre Island, 7
Cliiqiiiiiii Hay, 02
Chiramhira Point, 911
Cliii'iii-kotan Islaml, 564
CliirikotV, Cape, 920
Chinioef Island, 505
Chiri(|Ui' Lagoon, 3
Chiricpii Bay, 24
Cliiiii[ui Coast, 28
('hiriipiin Point, 59
Chirnoi Brothers Island, 665
Cliirnoi Island, 605
Chismuyo Bay, 50
Cliiswell Islands, 488
Choro Bay, 911
Chofii, llugi, 004
Cholinondeley Sound, 453
Choluteca River, 3
Chomo Island, 586
Choncha Pelona, 33
Chonga, Coito del, 87
Choiikotskoi, Capo, 630
Choutales, 48

Chranitschonko Islands, 730
t hristian Island, 667
Chriktio Pass, 421
Christian Sound, 459, 464
Christmas Harbour, 723
Christmas Island, 697
C'huchogal, 20
Chuchican, Knscnnda do, 26
Chuguchnik Bay, 490
Chung-chi Island, 899, 901
Church, Capo, 317, 318
(!iervo Island, U6
Cinnlo-., 123
Claasit, 216
Clallums, 255
Clam Bay, 299, 306, 309
Clan-ninick Harbour, 369,

362
Clara Island, 363
Clara, Santa, 60
Claronco Island, 131
Clarence, Port, 627
Clarence Strait, 452
Clarence Strait, Duke of,

452
Clarion Island, 788
Clark 1,-land, 276, 280
Claro, Rio, 29
Classet, Cape, 252
Clatsop and Beach, 235
Clatsop Channel, 238
Clayoquot Bound, 341, 340,

347
Clements Reef, 280-1, 288
Clcopatro Island, 893
Clerke Island, 631
Gierke Roofs, 365
Clerk Island, 711, 710
Cleopha, 105
CliflF Island, 284
Climate, Alaska, 448

1)82

Climftto,

730

CaroUno InIuiuIh,

C.ntriil Amnrica, 4

, Mexico, HO

. , Siimhvich hlundH,

Clio Honk,!).!

Cliinii-rtou Islaiul or lloik,

7 Mo
Clmil Wand, 7*^0
Cluvrc I'oiiil, 3.!;t
Cual Hiiy, ■!«'».. I'"'
<.'(ialcaninii, Kio, 'J7
Colli llailumi-, :i?'^, 't8J
Coal Inland, 'i'J.i
Coal Toiiit, Uil, '297
Coastir Ciiiiii'ii 1, il't'"'
Ci)l)ro, Airovodol, 21
Cochore, I'iS
IVudiraiio I'oiiit, 485
(Jocino Island, lOH
Cockburn, C!.il"', 404
Cocoa-nut Cove uud Inlana,

830
Cocoa-nut Island, 829
CocoH Hay, 40
CocoB Island, 52, 6U.J, <'J8

CocoH I'oint, 8

Collin Wand, 290, 371, (>29_

ColHiv Harbour, 879, 88j,

8St)
Coitia Island, 17, 19 .
Cojutupciiuo, 08
Coko Point, 402
Colinia, 99
Colima Volcano, 79, 98, 100

CuUinRwood Cliaunel, 399
C(diu'tl, Capo, loO
Colnott Island, 0115 _
Colombia, Islas do,
Colon, 12
Colorado and Island, 10^,

103
('.dorado, Punta, 13u
C.dorado, Uio, 121-2, 130-1
Colpoys Point, 4')'>
Colunibia Uivor, 212,

232, 230,241
Column Peak, 10
CcdiinaH Island, 876
Colvillo, Capt, 274
ColvoH Pasi-agu, 201
Colvos Uocks, 20 1
Colwood Farm, 322
Colwood Islot, 3J J
Comayagua, 3
Commander Islands, .)48
Commurell, Cape, 421, 424
Commoncemcnt Bay^^ 2'' 1
Commcrson Island, 770
Con.pany's lclim<l, SOo
Compass, Variation ot the,

9u2
Comptroller Bay, 482
Comtc Hoidon Bay, ''l"
Conccpcion do Cabovcn, l»io

(ic la, 130 ^^

Conception Point, 134, ---,
916

217,

INDKX.

Concopeion, Hiurra, & Point,

102-3
Concosbion, Tlio, 013
Concliat?ua Hiy, 3
Concha^ua, tiidl'of, 00, 02
Conchai{uita Island, oO
Com lusion Island, loO
Conclusion, I'oit, 407
Conconi Itoi't', 291
Concordia, 4.'), 03, tili
Cono Island, 347, OiiO
Comjo Island, 23
Congo, Corro, 8
Congress Island, 877
Conical Is'and, 017
Conuiua I'oak, 301, 353
Cono Island, 20
Conqueror B ink, 008
I tlonstanco B ink, 320
Constance Cove, 319, 321
Constance, Moant, 200
Constantino, Capo, 520
Constantino Harbour, 481 i
Constantin Isliind, 753
Constitution Mo\intain, 270,

285, 379
Contadora Island anil CUan -

nul, 7
Contra Costa Mountaius,

183
Controrns Islands, 22 _

ConveriUn, Point, 405, 408
Conversion Point, 101
Cook, (-'ape, 327, 304, 305
Cook Inltt, 440, 489, 919
Cook Uiver Inlet, 470
Cook s Island, 715
Cook Strait, 522
Cooper Inlet, 316
(looper Islets, 893
Cooper's Island, 789, 859
Cooper Ueef, 297
Cupalis Kiver, 240-7
(;opalux Uiver, 244
Copper Island, 330, 517, 649,

789, 859
Coquillo Island, 702
Coquillo Islands, 731
Coiiuille Harbour, 741
/'^/.•lilln tiivi>r_ *223

Co(iuillc Uiver, 223

Coral Islands, 090

Corcovado Uock, 33

Cordilleras, 79

Cordonnzo de San Francis-
co, 80, 111

Cordova Bay and Port, 458
Cordova Channel, 287, 289,

295
Cordova, Port, 484
Coroa Strait, 597
Cormorant Bay, 289
Cormorant Island, 418
Cormorant Uyck,_420
Cornwallis Bay, 787_
Cornwallis Islanus, 790
Cornwallis Point, 459
Corvctana Uock, I-a, 104
Coronudos Islaiuls, 151

' Coronudos Island, 135

Coronation Island, 437
Coror Islmd, 772-3
Corral Tierra, Punla de,

180
Curricntes, Capo, j03
Corrora Islainl, 773
Corso, Capo, 144
Cortes Island, 400-7
Cortes, Sua of, 122
Cortes Shoal, 101
( 'orlez, 60
Comma Island, 900
Corvi Hay, 012
Cosala, 123
(josegiiina, 3, 49, 65
Coseguina Point, 58
Costa del lialsamo, 08
Costa Uica, 1, 29
Costa Tasca, 47
Co8t( llo Ueef, 764
Coto, Uio, 31,32
Cottam Ueef, 392
(Joulgiak Island, 491
Countess Point, 480
Count Ili'idim Islands, 7'24
Courtcnay Uiver, 394, 395
Covell Islands, 731
Covey Island, 008
Cowitchen Head and Har-
bour, 2S8, 298
Cowlifi Bay, 289, 291
Cowlitz Uiver, 217 111
Coxcomb Hill, '-' '
Cox, Point, 341
Cox Island, 425
Coyuca, Paps of, i, 90
Craerolt Island, 417
Craig Point, 465
Clrane Island, 284
Crane Islands, 423
Crane Shoal, 703
Creasy, Capo, 589
Crescent Bay, 252
Crescent City and Bay, '-ll
Crescent Point, 301
CrcHciuntu Island_,_14l
Crespo Island, 87 3
Crestou Island, 112
Ciillon, Cape, 577, 579
Crillon Mount, 471
Crispin Uock, 290
(Jroisillea, Capo, 778
Crooze Island, 407
Cross Sound, 467, 409,

471 ,

Crown Island, 283, 7

894

Ci'3wn Princess, Wreck, 189

Crozer ISIount, 739

Cuaca\il I'oint, 92

Caehilbi Grande, 19a

Calebra, 13

Culebra, Port, 40, 41

Culiacan, 123

Culiaoan Uiver, 123

C id ross Point, 485
i Cunibra de las Auras, IM
I Cumniing Point, 430
1 Cumsb.ewas Harbour, 4o^

470,

r-8.

n<\. 4fl7
7.!-;i
I'uiita d>'

10, loa
, 7";t

40ti-7
Hi
111

ouo

10, r,r,

lit, M
ainu, M
29
17

754
a'2
;i'.)2

ud, 4111
nt, 4iS((

I ifjlanilH, 7'-4
iver, a'J4, 3U>
,8, 731
., ()<i8

liMid and lliir-
•2'J«

, 281), 2il i
r, 217 211
11,21
i\\
42.)

8 of, . i, Ufi
lud, 417
455
1, 2«4
ila, 423
, 703
0, 589
y, 252
Ly iiiul Bay, 211

lint, 301

[alimd, 141

nd, 87 5

iiid, 1 12 _

po, 077, 57'J

ant, 471

:X 290

Japo, 778

,nd, 4G7

id, 467, 4G9, 470,

land, 283, 777-S,

nccss, WvL'ck, ISO

,uiit, 739

oint, 92

Inindc, 195

.'01 1, 40, 41

123

Uiver, 123

oint, 485

lo las Auiiis, IS I

; Point, 430

■US llaibour, 40^

fiiri' I-iliind, MH

( 'mniiit InIiiiiiI, 7N3

< 'iiniiit I'uM"-, 115

Ci iiUKNT^ of tlici NiiHh I'a-
cillo Ocuiin, 931— i)51

— — in K<''ii'riil, 034 ;

North Ivimiloriiil Cur-
rent, 035 ; Ivimitorinl
Coinitor Ciincnt, 9:i7 ;
till' ilapiincMi ( iirrciit, 911
—918; SiMKit Japan, 948;
Sia ot'Okliolsk, 919; Sea
of llohrinK, 949 ; N.W.
C'ciaBt of Aniciica, 950 ;
C'oaHt of California, 060 ;
Went Coast of Moxico,
050

niaekdiilf. Oil

■ — ('aroliiio Archipo-

la^o, :38

Central Amorica,

• Eiiuatorial, 035

■Taimncso, 597, 941

—^ Ladrono IslandH,

790

824

■ North Pacifip, 834
Handwich lulands,

• Vancouver Island,

313
("ustodioa. Capo, Ion, 104
CuBtodios Uivcr, 104
Ciitth; Group, 363
Ciiylor's Harhour, 170-1
Cyclops Mountains', "79
CypriwH Bay, 31H
CyproHS Coil' lid Id., 284
Cvpri'sa iHlaiid and Uoof,

208
< 'ypross I'oi it, 1 75

DiiMnliiH Pn'-r.. 420
Haihosnki, (»39
Diiizo Island, fi07
lliilco Point, 201
Dallas Mountain, 293
I'aliyniide, Cape, 676
I 'Hums llay, 18
DuiiPH, Pi.rt df, 18
I'ampicr Island, 778
I'lnipicr Strait, 777
I'aiiaido liocks, Kt
Dancoiio Island, 798
Danifcrouse Kock, La, 578
I>anj,'er iHland, 791
Danffor Islands, E. and W.,

732
Danger Beef, 299, 301, 310
DaiiRer Kock, 280, 294, 334,

337, 355, 582
Danger Hocks, 309
Danger Shoal, 292
Diniel Island, 721
D Anvillo, Cape, 922
D'Aiivillo Gulf. 587
Dirliy Cape, 520
Diiicy Island, 288, 295
Dirk liiland, 344

INDEX.

Dirk Cove, (01
Diirkeis 1 land, 875
Disiiiin Niiki, liHl
David I'own, HI, 27
Daviil Day, 25
David Chann.d, 339
David Kiver, 28
Davidson Kock, 274
Davis Hay, 275
DawHon iHland, 725
Diwydoir iHland, 510
Day Point, 429
Diad-treo Point, 438
Dean Canal, 428
DeauM Diindas, Port. 6H9
Decapolis Uijef, 763
Decatur Inland, 275, 282
Deception (Miannel, 313
Deception Pass, 207, 315
Dociorta I»Iand, 875
Decision, Capo, 457, 459,

401
Dicker's iMland, 801
Do Courcy I-iland, 310
Deep Day, 394, 898
Deep Cove, 2!I7, 298, 399
Deep Inlet, 300
Deep PasH, 343-4
Deoi)- water Hay, 413
Deer Harbour, 284-5
Door Island, 27, 410
Deer Islands, 329, 333
Door Lagoon, 259
Defiance Point, 202
Do Fuca'8 Pillar, 252
De Fuca Strait, 261, 274,

320
Deik's Island, 875
Delaroff Islands, 614
Dolarovskoi, 5U3
Delaware Bank, 807
Deli{a<la Point, 142
Dolisle, Capo, 575
Departure Bay, 389
Denbigh, Capis 524
Dcnman Island, 391, 393
Dent, Cape, 582
DerliiuHkoi .Strait, 606
Derby, 384
Descartes Point, 42
De.-ertcd I Jay, 404
Deserted Creek, 353
Dosgraciada, La, 818
Des'tna, 077
Desolado, Cape, 40, 47
Desolation Sound, 406
Despensa Island, 42
Destitution, Capo, 582
Destruction Island, 224, 249
Devil's Kiilgo, 463
Do Vrios, Cape, 606
Doziina Island, 593
Diablo Point, 187
Diablo, Punta del, 801
Diamante Point, 93—96
Diamond Cape, 034
Diamond Hill, 850
Diamond Point, 280
Diana Island, 330

BUS

Diam Shi.nl, 703

Di nil Strait, 505

Dirkin^on I'omt, 118

Dick, .Mount. 402

Diek Port, 48S

Digges Sound or Biiv, 478

Dillon Point and Hoek, 420,
421

Dinner Point, 2 '1

Diomede Islands, 629, 6,30

DioiiyHiiis Mountain, 642

Direction Blull', 55S

Direction Mountain, 687

Disappointment, Capo, 231,
23.), 680. 592

Disappointment Island, 888

Disaster Island, 89.>

Discovery Island, 287, 304

Discovery Islands, 326

Discovery Passage, 411, 413

l)iacov(>rv. Port, 260

Disney I'oint, 280, 204

Dixie Cove, 3i)l

Dixon Chatinel, 435

Diyi Island, 013

DjiiMie, Cape, 686

Djino Sima, OUi

Dockyard Island, ."70

Dodd' Narrows, 287, 290,
306, 309, 390

Dodger Cove, 333-4

Dodo Uocks, 645

Dog Island, 713

Dolores, Isia do, 249

D(dores Island, 891

Dolphin Point, 2('>1
Dominical Point, 34

Donegal Head, 418
Dongaiid.sha Bay, 672
Dorei, Port, 781
Dory, Port, 781
Do Slum, 668
Dotonsan, Peak of, 609
Douangoa, Cape, 572
Double Bluff, 258
Double Head, 646
Double Island, 340, 344, 357
Double-topped Mountain,

898
Double-wedge Island, 665
Douglas, Capo, 490, 497
Douglas (.,'hannol, 277, 279
Douglas Harbour, 442
Douglas Island, 459, 463
Douglas ]Mount, 289
Douglas Kock, 888
Dove Island, 729
Dovo Keef, 667, 686
Downs Point, 676
Doyle Island, 421, 423
Dragon Hocks, 213, 219
Drakes Island, 866
Draj'ton Harbour, 270
Drew Harbour, 406, 408,

409
Drovianaia Cove, 509
Druniinond Island, 707, 711,

713
Drew Rock, 291

_^-— **..^-^^''

984

INDEX.

Dry Island, 809
Duck Island, 672
Dudomaino Island, 779
Duko of Clarenco Strait, 457
Duke of York Archipelago,

464
Dulce, Gulf of, 30, 32, 911
Dulou River, 92
Dnmo Point, 160
Duncan Buy, 412
Duncan Canal, 466
Duncan Island, 421
Duncan Itock, 263
iMindas Island, 432, 7U,

892
DundaB, Point, 469
Dunjjenoss Hay, Now, 265
Dun);rone8B, KalNo, 255
Dunkin Kocf, 765
Duntzo Head, 320
Duntze Uock, 253
Duperr6, 778
Duporroy Island, 765
Duperrey Islnu'ls, "42
Du Polit Thouiirs Shoal,

142
Durour Island, 777
D'Urvillo Island, 765
D'Urvillo, Point, 780
Duval Point, iW
Duwamish IJay, 260
Diixbury Point and lleof,

191, 194, 2d0
Dyke Point, 320
Dzinozetti Channel, 613

Eaglo Harbour, 200
Eiigle Island, 263
Ear Island, 707
Earl Ledge, 416
Ears Rock, The, 880
East Capo of Asia, 535
East Faiu Island, 7,69
East Sound, 286
Easy Creek, 361
Eauripik Islands, 766
Ebisima, 619
Ebon Island, 710, 731
Ecola Creek, 231
Eddystone Rook, New, 450
Edensaw's Village, 440
Edgecumbo, Capo und

Mountain, 467, 472, 474
Ediz Hook, 266
Edmund Point, 427
Edward, Cape, 471
Edward Point, 428
Eel Reef, 418
Eel River, 207
Eel River Valley, 223
Effingham Inlet, 337
Egerup Islands, 723
Egg Island, 526
Egg Islands, 608
Egmodio Island, 723
Egorkovskoi, 609
Egvokinot Riiy, 515
Ekarma Island, 564

Elato Island, 702

Elbow Island und Rocks,

336
El Coxo, 1C4
Eld Island, 246
Eld's Inlet, 262
Eleanor Covo, 478
Elena, Cape and liny, 41-2
Elizabeth, Cape, 488, 674
Elizabeth Islands, 731
Eliza Dome, 358
Eliza Island, 711
Eliza, Port, 366, 357
El Juco Point, 24
Elk Bay, 413
Elk River, 208, 221
Ella Island, 703
Ellen Bay, 303
Ellico Point, 238
Ellis Point, 241,459
Ellis Reef, 667, 686
Elmore Islands, 730
El Moro, 159
El Moro Rock, 174
El Morro, 94
Elmstone Rock, 040, 043
El Muolle Rock, 6i)
El Ostoonal Rocks, 42
Elotv River, 123
]':i Po70, 26

Elpynghyn Mountain, 640
Elrington Point, 4H6
El Viejo, 50
Klwha River, 254
Emma Harbour, 643
Emmelagui District, 773
Emmelian, Cape, 643
Endorby Islands and Bank,

701
Endermo Harbour, 066
Engano, Cabo del, 472
Engaoughin Bay, 546
j:iiglefield Bay, 441
i;ngli8h Bay, 385
English Harbour, 700
Eniwetok Isliinils, 732
Eno-ura Bay, 023-4
Ensiliada Island, 25
Enterprise Channel, 323
Enterprizo Reefs, 291, 304
Entrada Point, 142, 144
Entrance Bank, 412
Entrance Head, 003
Entrance Island, 334, 309,

387
Entrance Rock, 391
Entrance Shoal, 283
Ei)iphany Bay and Port,

496
Etiuatorial Current, North,

935
Equipalito Rocks, 136
Eratatsi, Capo, 045
Eremitinos, Los, 777
Erie Mountain, 278
Erikub Islands, 723
Erooii, ("ape, 064
Eroro Islands, ()64
Errakong Island, 775

Esnrmi, Capo, C47
Escalanto Point, 351, 348
Escape Point, 462
Escape Reef, 300, 416
Escai)e Reefs, 299
Eschovan Island, 85
Eschscholtz Islands, 727
EsclavoH I'azas, Rios dos, 72
Kscondido, Puerto, 130, 130
Escudo do Voragua Hivur, I
Escuialla, 70
Esermi Harbour, 055
Espartul Island, 24
Esperanza Inlet, 366 — 367
Espineza Ann, 367
Espiritu Santo Island, 137,

138
Espucla Island, 20-1
Esquimalt Harbour, 297,

318, 320
Esquinas, Rio de las, 32
Essington, Port, 431
Estapa, 97
Estero, Tho, 37
Estero Bay, 174
Estero del Arsenal, 109
Estero Dona Paula, 50
Estero Real, 49, 01
Esteros, Los, 174
Estevan Point, 347, 306
Esther Island, 485
Estiva Island, 16
Etal Islands, 765, 767
Etches, Port, 483
Etelkouium Bay, 546
Etoline, Cape, 621
Etoline Harbour, 454
Eugenie Archipelago, 689
Euphrosyno Rock, 888
Eureka, 208
Kurj'alus Rock, 000
Evalouk Islands, 703
Evans Bay, 408
EvdokocfF Islands, 501
Evening Isbind, 782
Elvosn, (^apo, 654
Ewa District and River, 848
Ewiug Harbour, 221
Ewing Island, 281
Ewing Peak, 238
Expedition Bay, 687
Eyries Mcunt, 779

Facpi Point, 799, 801
Fain Island, West, 762
Fairfax I'oint, 297
Faiu Haven, 849
Fair Harbour, 301
Fair of La Pi;z, 03
Fairway Channel, 387-8
Fairway Rock, 630
Fairweathor Mountain and

Cape, 406, 471, 470
Fois Island, 700
Fak'.ida Kaki, 077
J''alKlei> Island, 700
Falcon, Cape, 231
Falcone Anchorage, 802

INDEX.

985

mi, Cnpp, C47

lanto roiiit, 361, 318

po Point, 462

po Rocf, 300, 416

po KcofB, 299

lovan Island, 86

ischoltz Islands, (27 ^

nvo8 Pazas, Uios doa, / 2

mdido, Puerto, 130, 130

ido do Vorngua Hivur, 1

lintla, 70

rmi Harbour, 655

artol Island, 24

cranza Inlot, 366—307

inozft Arm, 367

lirilu Santo Island, 137,

mola Island, 20-1

luimalt Harbour, 297,

118, 320

li\inas. Rio do las, 32

(ingTon, Port, 431

lapa, 97

Lero, Tho, 37

leroBay, 174

tero del Arsenal, 109

tcro Dona Paula, 50

tero Real, 49,61

teros, Los, 174

tevan Point, 347, 360

ithor Island, 485

itiva Island, 16

tal Islands, 755, 767

tches. Port, 483

telkouium Bay, 646

tolinc, Cape, 521

itoline Harbour, 454

lugenie Archipelago, 689

luphrosyno Rock, 888

lureka, 208

'.uryalus Rock, 000

ivalouk Islands, 763

r,van8 Bay, 408

ivdokocff Islands, 601

Svcning Island, 782

Evosn, Capo, 634

Ewa District and River, 848

Kwing Harbour, 221

liwing Island, 281

Kwing Peak, 238

Expedition Bay, 687

EyrioB Mcunt, 779

Facpi Point, 709, 801
Fain Island, West, 702
Fairfax Point, 297
Faiu Haven, 849
Fair Harbour, 361
Fair of La Pnz, 63
Fairway Channel, 387-8
Fairway Rock, 630
Fairweathor Mountain and

Capo, 466, 471, 476
Fais Island, 766

Fakuda Kaki, 677

Falalep Island, 760

Falcon, Capes 231

Falcono Anchorage, 802

Falfan Rivor, 14
Faliao Island, 762
Falipi Island and Bank, 763
False Bay, 150, 158, 283,

398
False Capstan Head, 896
False Channel, 367
False Creek, 385
False Island, 300
False Narrows, SP, 390
Fuluellap Island, V65
Fanadik Island, 760
Fananou Islinid, 759
Fane Island, 291
Faniiini; Ishind, 699
Fanny Bay, 393-4
Faiiopc Ibiand, 743
Fanshaw Capo, 460-1
Faounoupei Island, 743
Faraguet Island, 779
Farailes Island, 764
Farailosse Island, 765
Faralloue Point, 101
Farallones, The, 197
Farallones Alijos, 858
Farallon Island, S., 191
Farallon lngl(;8, 9
Farallon do Medinilla, 810
Farallon do Pajaros, 810
Farallon de I'rosper, 22
Farallon do Torres, 811
Faraiik Inland, 763
Farnham Island, 792
Furrallones Rocks, 146
Farroilap Island, 765
Farugelnia Island, 587
Fatsizio Island, 628
Fattoilap Island, 765
Fauntleroy's Rock, 206, 212
Favida Island, 401
Fawn Island, 285
Fearless Rock, 225
Fearnoy Point, 403
Feis Island, 766
Feklistoff Island, 572
Felalisso Island, 705
Felipe, Point, 162
Ferniin Point, 169
Fern Cove, 261
Ferrer Point, 354
Feys Island, 766
Fiildlo Reef, 324
I'idalgo Island, 267, 278
Fidal.;o, Port, 484
Finisterro Mountains, 77S
Finlayson Island, 433
Finlayson Mountain, 277,

293
Fin Rock, 222
Firando, 5U3, 069
Fira Sinia, 893
Firmin Point, 107
I'irmin, San, lli3
Fi.su;ard Islam' and Ijiglit,

31 «, 320
Fish River. 581
Fislier Canal, 42S
Fisli,.!- Islaml, 885
I'i linriian Cove, 130

JS'orth i'ucijic.

Fishornian Reef, 617
Fisherman Reek, 604-5
Fishing Rocks, 208
Fittmi Bay, 881
Fit/. Island, 355
Fit/-iblion Point, 451
Fitzhugh Sound, 426
Five-fathom Shoal, 325
Five-lingi'r Island, 390
Five Hammocks Point, 149
Flamenco Island, 1'
Flanwnco Point, 14
Flat Hav, 576
Flat Hill, 239
Flat I.slmd, 398, 602
Flat Islands, 401
Flat Point, 282
Flat-top Uland, 279
Flat-top Islands, 311, 345
l-'lat-top. Mount, 369
Flat-top Point, 102
Flattery, Capo, 218, 248,

252
Flattery, Capo, and Light,

316
Flattery Rock", 250
Flints, Point of. 172
Flora's Crtiek, 223
Florence Sh'nl, 816
Floras Island, 345-6
Flower Island, 357
Foggy Cape, 449
Fog Rock, 330
Foigor Island, 817
Fonseca, 64

Fonsc^ca, Gulf of, 49, 56, 012
Fo.itc Bank, 326
Foraidop Island, 765
Forbes Island, 340
Forgado Rock, 892
Fordyce Pass, 722
Foreland, N., 492
Forfana Ishuid, 878
Formosa, 687
Formosa, Coast of, 900
Forrester Island, 468
Forsyih Point, 437
Fort Point, 185
Fortunns, Caj^s 206
I'ortune Chanmd, 344
Forward Bav, 416
!■ orward Inlet, 368-9
Forwood Channel, 387
Foster Point, 286
Foul Bay, 323
Foul Point, 647
Foulweather lUuff, 258-9
Foulwcather, tJape, 228-9
Foiii-fathoms Bank, 186
F')ur-foot Rock, 686
I'our Mountains Islands,

510
Fuurtei'ii Island Group, 732
Kox, Capi', 419
Vox Island, 262, 589
Fox Inlands, 505
Fiailes, Lo.s, 16
Frailes Rocks, 10 1 -2
Fianeais, Baie des, 471

Francis Island, 7! 1
Francis Point, 2ii'.>, 103
Franklin Biiy, 778
Frizer I 'land, 317
Fra/.(^r I -elands, 751
Frazer River, 257, 269, 376,

;!8(l
Frederick Point, 408, 440
Frederick, Port, 469
Freeman Point, 581
Freemantle Point, 485
Freewill Islands, 781
Fri!ni'h Frigate's Slioal,

8.1
Fri'shw:;t(!r Bay, 25 1
Freshwater Island, 789
Friday Hiirboiir, '.'73

I iiiilly Cove, 351
Frio River, 48

Frosi Island, 282-3

Frost Shoal, 861

Fruitful Island, 791

Fueu Strait, Juan do, 251,
316

Fucgo Volcano, 3, 73-4

Fuerte, Rio dil, and Town,
123, 126, 126

Fugur Rivi r, 572

Fukai, 671

Fukioka, 666

Fukubo Island, 609

Fukura, 615

Fuku-ura, 603, 632

Fukuyo, 671

Fulford Harbour, 297, 302

Fulford Reef, 325

Furasato Saki, 686

Furato Saki, 669

Fureck, Port, 654

Fusivama Mountain, 623,
63"()

Futakami, 668

Fulako Siina, 674, 681

Fato Saki, 632

Futsu Saki, 640

Gabilan, 14

Gabriola Pass and Reefs,

306, 311
Gubriola Reefs and Island,

386, 387
Galaino Island, 306
(4alein Island, 6, 8
Oaleta, La, 15
Galiano Island, 301, 304,

421
Galley Rock, 339
Gallina Island, 137
Gallo Island, 137
(}alh)ws I'lilnt, 388
(raiiiali'V, Cape, 6t6, 058
(ianil)ier Island, 400
Gambier, Point, 462
Gamlib', Port, 264
Garni, Isla, 27
Gamova, t'ape, 687
Gaiiiova I'liiiit, 588
G.myis Harbour, ;i02-3

i *

986

(iiiiiROsReof, 877
(i:il«in Isliiu'l. 801
Giiriuliino I'oint, C
Oarapnn, 808
Gtti-1>iiii!'-"*'> 817
Gordon Island, ■.^84
(SiirdncT Canal, 430
GarJ lor Island, 76.)_, 803
Gardner, Mount, ;«8i»
Gardner Point, 4.V.), 401

Gardner, I'ort, 2CG

(Jiirishka, 627

Gums Point, 459

Garova Island, o6

Gurry Point, 381

Gnspar Island, 791

Gaavar Kico IslandB, li'h

791
Gaston Bay, 269

Point,

694,

Gaultier Mountains, n J
Gavareah, Capo, 656, obi
Gaviota Pass, 163
Geolwink Bay an"

780
Gonkar Nada, 666
Genkar 8ima, 660
Gf-nsiu-gawa Kiver. ^^^
Gooffrey, Mo\iut, iVi

Goorgo, Point, 239

Georgia Strait, 274, 305,
308,377,391,397

Giorgia, Gulf of, 267

(Serald Island, 392

Gevmantown Keef, 894

Ghilm-isi Rock, 633

Ghii "Si. Fort, 609

S;Minsk,and'G«lfof 669

(Jig'anta, El Ccrro de la, 13.J
fJig Harbour, 261
Gih.m's Bluff, 210
Cil Island, 430
GilaUiver, 131-2
GiUiert Island, 715
Gilbert Archipelago,

706, 940
Gilbert River, 590
GillesBay, 401
Gillcspy Island, 716
Giquilisco, 64
Oivry Island, 768
Glasenapp Road, 640
Glamiap, t-'ape, 618
Glonthome Creek, 304
Glinipso Reefs, 323
(iloubokaia Bay, 613
Glnubokaia Cove, 609
Gnaton, 802
Goat Island, 724, 884
<i();iz:icoalcos River, «A »*
Gobernador Island, 17
G„ld Bluff, 210
Gold Harbour, 441
(^.oldon Gate, The, 1m, 1»4
Golden Horn Bay, 689

Golden Rock 617
Golenichtcheff Cape, 651-2
Goletas Channel, 420, 421,

422, 425
Gollilo, El, 32

INDEX.

Oolfo Dulco, 29
Golovatchoffor Oolovachcf,

Ctipo, 674, 584
Golovnino Bay, 6iH
Oolownin Strait, ol)4
Goly Island, 607
Gomez Island, 117
Gongo Kima, 606
(♦onz-alos, 8
Gonzales Point, 324
Gooth Island. 297
Good Hope, Bay of, 664
Good I^ok-out Isl'V"^"' "-2
Good News Bay, 622
Goose Island, 278
Goose Spit, 395
Gorbun Rook, 494
Gorda Point, 9, 21, 40.1
Gorda, Punt^i, 30 139, 206
Gordon Group, 421
Gordon Head, 289
Gordon Islands, 4'^3
Gordon Point, 418
Gordon River, 316
Gore Island, 131
Gore Island, and Cape, 631,

632
Gore Point, 488
Goreli Island, 611
Goroloy Island, 514
Gorge Harbour, 407
Gossip Island, 306
Got en Yama, 642
Gotenyama Hills, 644
Goto Cape, 672
Goto Islands, 671
Goulding Harbour, 471
Ooulon Island a, 769
Governor Rock, 07
Gavenskoi, Capo, i>*7
Gow< r Point, 399, 40o
Gowlland Harbour

Island, 411
Gowlland Rocks, 341
Goza Inlet, 621
Grace, Point, 486
Graham Bluff, 643
Graham, Capo, 99, 100
Graham Harbour, 489
Graham Island, 43:, 440
Gnijcro Point, 1 >0
Grampus Islan is, 87/
Granada, 43
Granada, I-ake of, 47
Granado River, 34
Grande, Rive'; 14
Grande, Rio, 29, 204
Granite It. 'nd, 363
Granite P..int, 413
(Jraiitloy Harbour. o28
Grappler Creek, 329
Grapplor Reef, 301, 308
Gravsl Spit, 283
Grave Point, 299
Graves, Port, 399, 400
Gravina Island, 460, 4o2
Oravina, Port, 484
Gray Feather Hank, < 1)0
Oray'BBa),235

and

Gray's Harbour, 246-6
Great Bank, 338
Groat Lu-chu Island, 895
Green Bank, 286
Green Cove, 331
Green Hill, 831
Green Island, 480, 488, 808
Green Point, 241, 292
Greenwich Island, 7o3
Gregory, Cape, 224 220
Greig Cape, 520, 04^
Grenvillo Canal, 430
Grenvillo Cape. 231
Grcnville Point, 242, 248
Groville Cape, 490
Grey Point, 380, 38o
Grey Rock, 392, 423
Griffin Bay, 278
Grief Point, 405
Grifo Island, 92, 93
Grifo Point, 94
Grignn Island, 794, 814
Grimes Island, 766
Grindull Point, 463
Gn)tt.;s, Pointu dos, 810
Guadalupe I-land, 858
Guadalupa,Bayade,4<2
Guahan Island, 794, 797
Guajan l8land,^797
Guam Island, "07
Guanacaste, 2i , 43
Guanavano, 2t
Guapilon Point, 34
Gunquina Arm, 3n3
Guarida Point 20. 21
GuascameE Point, 911
Guatemala, 2

Guatemala, Coast ot, ?•> _
Guatemala, Mountain of, <4
Guatemala, Republic of, .2
Guatemala, Volciino of, 07
Guatlan, 104
Guatulco, 86, 88, HJ
Guaymas, 80, 82, Ul, 126
Guaymas River, 13»
Guaymas, Port, 122
Guayaquil River, 911
Gueguensi Island, 6»
Gucmes Island, 267 _
Gucreto Mountain, /43
GuerinGulf, 588
Ouguan Island, 81Z
Guibert; Capo, 657
Gaichicovi Mountains, H4
Guide Islands, 407
Guinea, North Coast

New 777
Guione's, Cape, 39, 40
Guiranas, Punta do, I-JR
Gun Cliff, 646
Gunn.ir Harbour, 345
Guvguan Point, 807
GuvamHB River, 17.4
Guy Rock, 816

Ilachken Gawa River, 010
Hadagase, 676

Haddington If «"''', , yuj
Haddington, Port, 900, J«-

of,

DOUT, 245-6

tiOQ

llu Island, 895
{,286
I, 331
831

id, 486, 488, 8G8
It, 241, 292
Island, 7S3
lapc. 224, 220
>, 520, 640
::;anal, 430
nape. 231
Point, 242, 249
apo, 496
t, 380, 385
t, 392, 423
y, 278
It, 405
nd, 92, 93
nt, 94

iland, 794, 814
iliind, 766
Point, 453
Pointo dos, 810
)e I-land, 858
ja, Baya dc, 472
[aland, 794, 797
aland,^797
land, "07
8te,21, 43
ino, 2t
1 Point, 34
la Arm, SnS
Point 20. 21
WE Point, 911

ala, Coast of, 76

ala, Mountain of, (4

ala, Ropublic of, 72

ala, Volciino of, 67

1,104

.0, 85, 88, 89

im, 80, 82, 111,126

as Kiver, 138
;R8, Port, 122
juil River, 911
ensi Island, 68
,8 Island, 267
ioMonntain, /45
, Gulf, 588
in Island, 812
rt; Capo, 657
icovi Mountains, 84
Islands, 407
a, North Coast ot,

w. 777

,cs. Capo, 39, 40

naH, Punta do, l-}"

Uliff, 646

,..r Harbour, 345

nan Point, 807

.mMB Uivor, 172

Kock, 816

Lkon CJawa Uivor, 616
igftse, 675

iington If «"■'', , yuj
lin^ton, Port, '■>»^' •'"■'

HadHhi Day, 581
HiiidH Point, 286
ILigomoistiT Island, 521
Ilahainish Harbour, 265
Hakodaili or Hakodate Har-
bour, 634, 648, 649
Hakodate Heal, 645, 647
Hiikosaki Bay, 666
Hakubo Island, 607
Halawa Point, 845
Halcyon Island, 792
Halelca liay, 854
Hak'zof, Cape, 584
Half Moon Buy, 180
Half Tide Itouk, 278, 283,

343
Halgan, Capo, 543
Halibut Channel, 362
Halibut Island and Head,

503
Hall Island, 307, 309, 715,

768
Hallowes Island, 672
Hamana, 621
Hamilton Point, 903
Hammorsloy's Inlet, 262
Ha mo Bay, 603
Hammond Uocks, 316
Ilamond, Cape, 482
Hanadi Island, 899
ILinalae Bay, 854
Hanamura Bay, 609
Hanapepe Valley, 853
Hand Island, 339
Hankin Point, 286
Ilankin Rock, 344
H ins Ulasen Harbour, 655
Hanson Island, 417
Hanson Point, 246
Harbour Island, 331, 357,

358, 589, 668, 893
Harbour Point, 100
Harbour Rock, 278, 286
Harbottle Island, 714
Hardy Bay, 420
Hardy Island, 367, 404
Hardy Harbour, 671
llardwicko Island, 414, 415
Harida nada, 601
Karima nada, 609, 610
Harney Channel, 286
Ilaro Archipelago, 261, 272,

273
Haro, Cape, 127
Uaro Strait, Directions, 288
llaro Strait, 279, 287, 294,

325, 326, 377
Harriet Point, 491
Harrington Point, 466
Harris Point, 459
Harrison River, 376, 382
Harry Point, 297
Harvey, Port, 415, 416
llarwood Island, 405
llasndasinose Dank, 610
Ilashmy Islands, 757
Jlasikiwi, 620
Masikiwi Anchorage, 019
Ha Sinia, 032

INDEX.

Hasvokan Island, 901
Hatlh Point, 2!)7
Hat I anil, 364
Hato K<iki, 668, 686
Haula Bay, 847
Haumilulu, 86
Havannah Channel, 416
Haven's AnchoraKe, 203
Hawaii Island, 819, 826
Haweis Island, 762
Hawkesburv Island, 429
Hawkins Island, 304, 484
Hava saki, 081
Haycock Bluff, 641
Haycock Islands, 425
Haystack Rock, 632
Haystacks, The, 364
Ilaystrous Island, 791
Ila/aina Mountain, 639
Hazel Point, 265
Hazy Islands, 464
Hoail B!<y, 303
Hoalakaka Point, 833
HoaMsburgh, 202
Hebi Sima, 892
Hecate Channel, 357
Hecate Cove, 371
Hecate Past; and Day, 325,

334, 343, ■)47
Hocato Rock, 424
Ili'ceta B ink, 227
Heceta's Inlet, 216
Heiln Bay, 023-24
Heoia, 847
Hekgisidi, 605
Hi.lby Island, 329, 330, 333
H.len Point, 291, 304
Helen Reef, 782
Hole Rock, 898
Hiliaghyn Bay, 538
Uulmoken Island, 414, 415,

417
Holsion Island, 792
Helut Islands, 730
Helvetia, New, 153
Hemming Bay, 487
Hemslung Cove, 440
Henderson's Inlet, 262
Henderson Island, 859
Hcniiervillo Island, 707,

713
Henry Bay, 393-4
Henry, Capo, 442
Henry Island, 288, 293, 441
Henry Islands, 293
Herbert Arm, 347
Herbert Island, 898
Homando Island, 405-6
Hcrmanos Islands, 116
Hermanos liocks, 14
Hermits Islands, 777
Hcrmoso, Morro, 39, 147
Hermosilla, 123
Ilermosa Point and Bay,

17
Hernando Island, 409
Horradura Island and Port,

35
lUrrun Island, 24

!)87

Hi"ii|ulat Harbour & Blulf

317-8
Hoy Point, 4S2
Hicaritji Island, 19
Hicaron, 17, 19
Ilida ka kawa Kiver, 617
Hielap Island, 707
HifTgins Point, 4;V>
Highest Island, 339
Hii;h Island, 760
HIghlield Point, 451
Hi'.{hwater Rock, 2S0
Iliku Sima, 602, 608, 670,

0S.>
Hill Island, 329, 330, 33.>,

338, 408, 471, 666
Hill Rock Shoal, 17
Hilo, 82."!, 829
Hiloand Bay, 828
Hillsborough Island, 8S.i
Hime Sima, 600, (iOO, Vui
Ilinchinbrook Island, ts;i
Ilino Misaki, 617, 619
llino yama, 617
11 logo, 610

Hiogo Mountains, 610
Hiogo, Port, 612
Hippa Island. 4 10
Hirado Id., 608, 069, 070
Hirase Rock, 673
Hira Sima, 670
Hirowatali Bay, 616
Hishiwo Bank, 677
Hi Sima, 674
Hitango Sima, 673
Hitsou, Cape, 605
Hive Rock, 621
Hoa-pin-su Island, 904
Hobart, Point, 461
Hobbs Island, 342, 317
Hodge Rock, 671
Hogan Island, 471
Hogolen Islands, 757
Ho-hoao Island, 300
Holdsworth, Mount, 417
Hole-in-tho-VVall, 348
Holkham Bay, 402
Holland Island, 705
Holland Point, 322
Holy Cross Bay, 611, 611
Ilomalko River, 409, 4ll»
Home Island, 400
Hono-ura, 667
Hondobin Bay, 519
Honduras, 56
Honolulu, 847, 849
Honuonoono, 849
Hooch River, 249
Hood Bay, 404
Hood's Canal, 218, 258
Hood's Cnnnl and Head,

204
Hood, Mount, 242
Hood Point, 399
Hope, Town of, 380, 381
Hope Island, 422, 710
Hope Point, 401
Hopkins Point, 430
Hopper Island, 707, 714

1 1
1

■ >-si3SB&(i^3*SS«i*V*^»?^Sr=S ?= -••^^WeK-J^* ■ i«^» r -•^^

988

lloquiamts rviver, 247
IIoiiiio-ulHi-murii Hay, <>•'»
lloriiliy ThIiukI, 391, 393
lIonuT, ( "ill" . ''"-^
lli.rner Pei.k, 598
Horiiot Hay, 589
llorso-shoo Bay, 299
Iloskvn Inlot, 408
lloiuhton. Port, 461
llounlodffiia Bay, 803
Houston Island, 283
Houston I'liBs, 301, 307
Houston Stewart Channel,

430
Uowo, Toint, 455
Howo Sound, 385, 398, 400
Howlan.l Isltind, 706

Hualiiliii, 835

lIuavHii, Mount, 827

nua/.outlan, 84

Hudson Idund, 300

Hudson Point, 257

Huoneinc Point, 161

Hugh, Point, 462

Hugon, (ape, 587

HukoSiina, 671

llulah KotkB, 276

Hull Island, 416

Humioldi Bay, 207, 779

Hummock I-land, 900

Hump Island, 781

Humtolapo River, 247

Hungry Uoek, 676

Hunter Island, 731

Hunter U'-ef, 769
Hunt Point, 431
Huid's Island, 710
Hurst Island, 423
Hui-Udo Pi)iiit, 405
Hyacinthu Bay, 408
Hyukfukung, 607

Iftnthy Shoal, 763
Ibargoitia Island, 761
IboRso, «iJ9
Ihbctson Islands, IZi
IbKtsou, C.ipe, 431, 443
Icacos I'oiut, 62
Ichey lali.nd, 899
Ichiokashindon, 612
loy Bay, 479
Icy dccnn, 499
Idol Islaiiil, 301
Idragne River, 34
Idsu, Cap.s 033, 636
Idsu Peninsula, o94, 622

632
Ifiilik Islands, 763
Igama Bay, 665
Iguana I^land, 16^
Igatskov Bay, 495
Ighakehi Bay, 495
lana-look Island, 630
Iguana Point, 9
Ikatok Island, 604
Ikiitun island, 594
Iki Inland, ii65, 667
Ikop Ishind, 7'i9
Ikutski Island, 668

INDEX.

Ilcnao, 13

liiaminsk Peak, 491

Ililio S.ki, 617, 618

Ilic, 801

Hie Bav, 802

lllak Island, 515

Illinois Kiver, 212

Illuluk Bay and Port, 508

Ilpinsk, Cape, 550

Ilpinskoi, Capo, 647, 652

Imak Island, 518

Imari Bay, 668

Imillis Island, 776

Imoshiri Island, 654

Imperial, Port, 581

Imperieuse Bluff, 638

Inago Mountain, 799

Inaki Sima, 609

Ina Miuato, 667

Indian Island, 20S, 309,

345, 422
Indian Point, 286
Ingakoadak Bay, 609
IngersoU Patches, 897
IngeraoU Kocks, 892
Inglcse, Morro, 128
Inglis Rocks, Lady, 621
Ingoda River, 684
Ino Sima Mountain, 637
In Sima, 607
Inskip Channel, 441
Inskip Islands, 320
Inskip Rocks, 320
Intrusa Island, 24
lutrusa Rock, 23
Invincible Point, 133, 439
Irako-saki, 621
Irons Shoal, 761
Iro-o Saki, 633
Isabel Island, 112
Isabel, Mount, 142
I-abella Reef, 764
Isaki, 604
Isaki Point, 618
Is<dco Volcano, 3, 70-1
Isanotskoy, Strait of, 504,

618
Isima, 616
Island, The, 157
Island Cove, 316
Island Harbour, 335-6
Islands, Bay of, 467
Islet Point, 689
Islotes Group, 32
Ismenai and Bay, 656, 568
Isonusu, 661

Issannakh Mountains, 506
Istapa, 3, 30, 69, 72-3
Istmo, Islas did, 6
Isumi Strait, 610, 613, 616^

619
Isumi nada, 601, 610
Isumo saki, 619, 620
Itobasco, 65
Ilopango Lake, 66
Itsha River, 568
It^hinsk, 569
Itsino Sima, 619
llsive Mib.iki, 618, 6Ut

Ttiigrnn Island, 539, 640
Ituvbid. , 2
Ituiuplsland, 662, 506

Iwiii'ia Sima, 606
Iwogo Sima, 891
Iwo Sima. 673, 677, 679,

894
lyo, Capp, 608
lyo nada, 601,606
I/,t nbek and Bay, 518
Iztapan, 73

.Tabali, Cape, 20
Jabwat Island, 729
Jackson Poin*, 528
Jacobi Island, 467
Jaiuit Islands, 730, 731
James Bay, 304
JamoH, Cape, 422
JamesL-liind, 275, 294-6

James Point, 208
Jane Island, 75;i, 791
Japan (Winds), 921
Japan, Climate, &c., 694
Japan, Inland Sea of, 601
Japan, S.E. Coast, 635
Japanese Archipelago, 693,

Japanese Current, 087
Jardines, Los, 793
Jarvis Island, 697
Jeannelce Island, 630
Jecoiis or Jekoils Island,

746, 749
Jeff'erson Point, 259
Jemmv Jones Islet, 326
Jonio Island, 724
Jenkins Island, 401
Jennis Point, 278, 281
Jequepa Point, 96
Juraboiit Island, 892
Jervis Inlet, 402, 404, 409
Jesse Island, 562, 653
Josso Island and Strait, 567
Jiboa River, 66
Jijiginsk, Fort, 669
Jiiiuilisco, 64 j r,n

Joann Bogosloff Island, 510
Joliio Island, 780
John Bogg Rock, 168
John, Port, 428
John's Island, 291
John's River, 246
Johnstone Strut, 413, 414
Johnstone Reef, 289
Johnston Islands, 790
Johnston Rock, 615
Joka Simn, 638, 676
.lonas Island, 572
Jones Islaiul, 279, 295
Jonquiere Bay, 674, 58,1
Joquoits Island, 749
Jordan River, 317
Jorvaco River, 125
Jurullo Volcan de, 97
Joupanoff Volcano, ooi
Juan de Fuca Stra.t, 251,

315,316
JuauilUi Island, 12

INDEX.

98f>

I, 539, S40

m2, 500

(91

•a, 677, 679,

,606
I5ay, 518

20
d, 729

*, 528
,467

s, 730, 731
04
i-i'i

, •275, 294-5
208

'.y.i, 791
Is), 921
ite, &c., 694
A Sea of, 601
Coast, 635
chipelago, 693,

rrcnt, 687
)8, 793
i, 697
laud, 630
JekoilB Island,

)int, 259

es Islet, 326

1, 724

md, 401

it, 278, 281

int, 96

iland, 892

t, 402, 404, 409

d, 562, 653

d and Strait, 667

r, 66

i'ort, 669

osloff Island, 510

id, 780

r Rock, 168

:, 428

md, 291

rer, 246

Str.iit, 413, 414

Reef, 289
Islands, 790
Rock, 615
I, 638, 676
.nd, 572
ml, 279, 295

Bay, 574, 583
Island, 749
ivor, 317
liver, 125
olciin de, 97
f Volcano, 554

Fuca Stra.t, 251,

lal.ind, li

Juan Rodriguoii Islandj 170,

171
Juchitan, 83
Juco Point, 25
Judas, Ciipi), 142
Julia Itilanti, 306
Julio iHlarid, 891
Julo Island, 895
Junction Passage, 335
Junction Point, 400
Junk Harbour, 898

Kaalaca, 847

Kiil)ah!i..i Island, 728

Kaba Siina, GG8, 671, 674

Kabasima Buy, 680

Kiibuto yania, 664

Kadoolawe, 844

Kado Sima, 665

Kadsusa Bay, 044

Kadzitori I'oint, 006, 608

Kai'galak, 531

Kaona, C.ipo, 846

Kaena Point, 818

Kagai Island, 502 ^

Kagara, 067

Kageno, 675

Kagosima and ftulf, 599

Kagu Channel, 071

Kahiki, Cape, 841

Kah-la-wat-set River, 227

Kahoolrtwe or Kahulaui,
844

K ligan Harbour, 458

Kailau and District, 836

Kakaua Bay, 847

Kakhvalga Island, 516

Kakisaki, 634

Kakooa, 838

Kalakhtyrka River, 555

Kaleghta, Cape and Bay,
508-7

Kalishka, 627
Kaluaaha, 846

KaluLik River, 621
Kama Islands, 766
Kamalaea Bay, 843
Kainennaia Pristan, 627
Kamenuoi, Cape, 526
Kiimeura Harbour, 681
Kauiida Crcok, 649
Kiiini Idzumi, 667
Kaiiiinoi, 569
lyiininoue Islet, 893
Kiimino Kosiko, 6b 1
Kaniinosoki, 006
Kiimiuo Sima, 675
Kamoda-saki, 615
Kuimmo Siina, 081
lyimchatka, 501, 020
Kiitnehatka Peuinsida, 54",

_ 550
Kainehatka River, 661,

■Vi'i
K:uii(luitka, Sea of, 51 S
Kiiuiiuli.Uskoi, C/'ape, 553
Klli.Ul'll Islui,' 'ill

Kanagawa, 641
Knniikiki, 828
Kanawii Rock, 028
Kanaya Point, 033, 644
Kanoda Bay, 040
Kancga saki, 606
Kaiieoho, 847
Kanvofo, 840
Kanghynin Hay, 545
Kanon saki, 039, 040, 641,

642
Kansano yamn, 617
Kanziu Island, 004
Kaouai River, 230
Kapaho Point, 828
Kaponoar Island, 751
Kapenuaro Island, 751
Kapoho Point, 840
Karaga River, 552
Karaghinskaia Bay, 652
Karaghinsky Island, 551
Kiirakakooa District & Bay,

837
Kanimo Islands, 616
Karasuka Island, 599
Kartki Island, 6H6
Karlouk, 496
Kasato Island, 606
Kassatotchy Island, 513
Kata, 614
Kata Inland, 761
Katalaniet Mountains, 240
Katelina Island, 751
Kilter Island, 879, 880
Katona Sima, 894
Katsura saki, 666
Kattou Island, 773
Katzmota ura, 667
Kauai or Kaui Island, 823,

824
Kau District, 825, 839
Kaula Ihland, 856
Kaulaka Passage, S56
KawaihaQ and Bay, 825,

834
Kawailoa Bay, 847
Kawa Saki, 042
Kawatch, 670
Kawatchi, 686
Kaye Island, 482
Kealaikahiki Shoal. 844
Kealakekua District & Bay.
836 •*

Keats Island, 400
KoUett BluU; 288, 293
Kellett Island and Lodge,

275
Kelly Island, 886
Kelp Bar, 395
Kelp Bay, y29
K<dp IsLind, 340
Kelj) Reefs, 287-8
Kunay Bay, 919
Kei. ly Peninsula, 489
Kondriek Ann, 351
Kendrick Island, 890
Ki'nnedy Isl.md, 441
Keppe!, C.ipe, 298

Korftghinsky Island, Little,
547

Korama Island;), 895, 897

Kotchecbnoi, 509

Koloy Island, 505

Keyhole, The, 184

Khabaroff, Cape, 573

Khalnetkin, Capo, 538

Kharamukotan Island, 5()4

Khilap Island, 767

Khing-khan Mountains, 584

Kliitrolf, Capo, 548

Khranitschenko Bay, 621

Kibatsu Bay, 676

Kibune Poiut, 603

Kidd Island, 879

Kidd or Plymouth Id., 885

Kigalna Island, 606

Kikai Sima, 894

Kiku Strait, 459

Kilauea, Mount, 826, 828

Kill Island, 731

Killiliak Bay, 508

Kiloudenskoy Bay, 496

Kiludon Bay, 496

Kiludtnskoy Bay, 496

King, Cape, 646, 645

King George Archipelago,
409

King George's Sound, 348

Kinghom Island, 406

King Island, 329, 333, 427,
428, 627

King Isliinds, 290
Kingman Reef, 703
Kingsmill Islands, 707
Kingsmill Point, 459
King William, Cape, 778
Kio Sima, 607
Kiraueah Volcano, 828
Kirilovskaia Bay, 616
Kirimo yama, 617
Kishu Ngawa River. 612
Kishuugawa River, 611
Kisi Post, 685
Kiska Island, 604, 616
Kitagotagh Island, 503
Kitenamagau Island, 501
Kithouk, Capo, 505
Kiti District, 745
Kiti River, 748
Kittlitz Point, 746
Kiuniutanany Island, 602
Kiusiu Island, 597
Kiusiu Strait, 606
Klaholoh Rook, 254
Klamath River, 211
Klaproth Point, 68/
Klaskino Inlet, 305
Klaskish Inlet, 305
Kliavakban, 458
Kliuchivsk, 654
Klokacheva Sound, 469
Klokatcheft', Cape, 575
Kliioiiueh Rock, 223
Kloster-camp, 682
Klutehevskoi Volcano, 512,

551, 553, 554

990

INDEX.

KlutchJ, 654
Knai)p Islrtud, 295
Knight l"Jct. 416
Knight Islantl, 47S, 480
Knocker Uockf, 13
Knorr iHland, 881
Knox Bay, 414

Knoy iBland, 707, 716

Ko-adjiro Bay, 638

Koarra DiBtnct, 830

Koassoff Wand, 572

Kobe Bay and Pomt, 01/

Kodiak, 446, 496

Kodiak Archipelago, 49J,

494
Kodiak Island. 919

Kodo-kopuei Island, 78*
■ Kodota-yama, 660
Kodsino Island, 628
Ko-fuiakanu Kock, 668
Kohala and Disinct, 834
Kohubi Sima, 892
Koikla Toint, 263
Koko Sima, 602
Kok-shittle Arm, 361
Kokura and Leilge, 60J
Koloa Point, 853
Kolo Point. 853
Koloschenak Archipelago,

449
Kolui Point, 836
Komandoreki IslandB, 548
Komox District, 393
Konabuso Rock, 604
Ko-ia District, 836
Kona Pei.k, 863
Kongelab Islands, 7/6
Kongotes, 428
Kougouan, Cape, 640
Kiining Willem III. Mand.

629 , , riJ

Konniaga Island, 514
Konohaunui Mountains,

846
Koolaii, 847
Koosilvac River, 623
Koos River, Bay, and Head

224-6
Koprino Harbour, 370-1
Korack Islands, 77/
Korai Strait, 697
Koiea Strait, 665, 684
Korovinskaia, Cape & Bay,

Korolinskaia Harbour 513
Korovinskoi Volcano, 512
Korsakov Islands, 588
Kosaka Channel, 671
Ko8edo,676
Kosiki Islands, 681
Ko-sima, 608, 652, 656
Kosime no oo sima, eos
Koasol Island, 773
Kosii, 606
Kosu Sima, 626
Kotaka Island, 607
Kotako Sima, 673
Kolovv Islands, oii
Kotai "lulot, 601

Kot«u Sima, 665
Kotzbomura, 038
Kou Island, 456
Kougalga lahtnd, 606-0
Kougounan, Capo, 639
Kouivaem River, 543
Kourakong Island, 770
Kouro Saki, 614
Kouskoquim Rr ir, 6^/

Koutchougoumut, 520

Koutouzoff, Capo, 619

Koutznou, 464

Kouzmichtcheff, Cape, 652

Kowrooa Point, 830

Kowrowra, 838

Koyaki Island, 673, 675,

677
Koza-gawo, 620
Krachenninikoff, Cape, 55i

Krafto River, 673

Krenitzin Bay, 604

Krenitzen, Cape, 564

Krenitzin Islands, 60b

Krenitzin Point, 618

Kiitskoi Island, 518, 619

Krleougoun, Cape, 636

Kronotskoi, Cape, 564
Kronotskoi Volcano, 554
Krusenstem Cove, 546
Kruscnstfm Island, QM
Krusoustern Islands, 7/4
Krusenstom Rock, 874
Kiuzoffl8land,467,472

Krvci Islands, 505,615
Kii Channel, 601, 610, 614

Kuchtui River, 670

Kudaka Island, 899

Kudsi Island, 608

Kuegdogh Island^ o\}6

K"ga Chaiinol, 671

Kiihushan Point, 397

Kui Island, 898

Ku-kien-san Islands, 90U
Kula District, 841
Kulauloa District, 846
Kumi Head, 897
Kumi Island, 899
Kuininasi sima, 606
Kuna Siri Island, .567
Kunashiri Island, 562, 507
Kuper Island, 300, 301, 306,

309
Kuper, Po'/t, 441
Kuprianoff Island, 4o0
Kura Sima, 616
Kuria Island, 710, 714
Kurilo Archipelago, 650,

A A '2

Ku-ri-mah Island, 900

Kuro-ko Sima, 686

Kurose Rocks, 674

Kurosegawa, 687

Kuro sima, 070, 892

Kuro Siwo Current, 697,

fi87
Kusaie Island, 719,739,741

Kusa-kaki, 082
Kusaya, 060
Kuslinou, 404

Kusimolo, 620
Kusi Saki, 004
Kuskowimo River, 6/i
Kutsnoso Rock, 674
KutsinoSima, 892
Kutusoff Capo and Ui>> ,

656 , ,„,

Kutusoif Islands, 7/0

Kvichak River, 621
Kvfadolen Islands, 7_.'H
Kwaialein Islands, (V»
Kwich-pak Hiv«»' ''"
Kyanglo Island-, 77/
Kyghynin, Cape, 540
Kyli Islands, 730
Kylo Island, 77*)
Kynkai Island, 541
Kyuquot Sound & Clianncl,

359, 362
Kyoko Island, 899
Kysi Lake, 682

Lachsforollen Bay, 577
Ladrone Islands, /8, l»^^

785,793 , ,,,. .
Ladrono Islands, Climate,

Ladrone Islands, Winds,

923
Lady Black-wood Pass., 753

Lae Islands, 729
Lagediak Strait, 724
Laguna Grande, Punta del,

87
LaKum.--rando,Morrodcla

86 „,

I^aguna Point, 161
Lahaina, 825, 842
Lajas River, 46
La Libortad, 130
Lalo Point, 807
Lambert Channel, 391, iJ-i,

396
Lambert Islands, 730
Lambert, Point, 431
Lamoliaour Islands, Wcbt,

709
i Lamoliork Islands, 769
Lamotrek Island, 702
Lampa River, 06
Lanai Island, 841
Lane Cane Mountam, 36 i
Langaligaraile Wiind, iho
Lnngford, Port, 25o
Lan!{ley,381
Langloy, New, 384
Lanz Island, 42o
Laomira Island, 870
La Paz Bank, 761
La Paz and Bay, 137
La Paz Bay, 80
Lapelin Rocks, 8 j/
LaPlaya, 167 .

La Playeta de Chigu.rin, 02
Larkins Reef, 754
Lame Rocks, 892
L.san Rys Island, 866
Laskar Isliind and Ktci,
800

iObi

INDEX.

I I |IIII»IH<I1

991

River, 621

.ck, 674

a, 89'2

apo and Bay,

lands, 725
ver, 621
:«liind8, 7;-'S
Islands, 7'-d

Uivcv, 62U
lands 772

Cave, 610
Is, 730
d, 776
land, 641
iound & Channel,

vnd, 899
,682

len Bay, 577

Islands, 28, 708,

Islands, Climate,

Islands, WindH,

ckwood Tass., 763
ids, 729
: Strait, 724
3lrande, I'unta dol,

^/ando,Morrodola

roint, 161

, 825, 842

Ivor, 46

rtad, 130

int, 807

t Channul, 391, 393,

t Islands, 730

:t, Point, 431

ftour Islands, Wost,

ork Islands, "69

rek Island, 762

, River, 65

Island, 84t

>ne Mountain, J" >_

ligaraile I^und, 76o

ord, Port, 266

ey, 381

oy, New, 384

Island, 426

ira Island, 875

iz Bank, 761

VI Hnd Bay, 137

izBay, 80

lin Rocks, 8i)2

lay a, 167 . . . .,,

layeta de Chigumn, 0-

ins Reef, 754

10 Rocks, 892

,n Rys Island, 866

:„r Isliind and Ui:^',

Lasqupti Island, 391, 401
Lassiano Island, 80C
LaNsiun Island, 865
Latouuho Island, 48G
Ajitoiicho Point, 478
I.atsop River, 247
Laiipahoi, 833
Laura Point, 305
Lauretanoo, Mar, 122
IjHUScn Point, 168
Ijavandora Rock, 26
La von la, Rio, 21
Iia Vontozii, Morro of, 84
Lavinia Point, 469
Lawn Point, 367
Iinwronco Islands, 343
Lawrciico Point, 276, 286
Liiwson Bluff, !J81
Lawson Rock, 283
]<axa Rork, 116
Laxnian Bay, 664
Laysan Island, 864
liazarof, t;ape, 580, 584, 586
Lazaro, Capo, 144
Lazo, Capo, 391, 396
Lea<ll)ettur Point, 242
Leading Bluff, 330, 333,

335
Loading Cone, 366
I-calu Hill, 850
Lcading-in-Cliff, 241
Li'iidiiig Island, 360, 362
Loading Mountain, 357
licading Point, 326, 341
Lcbedevski Islands, 633
L'Ecliiquior Islands, 776
Ledgo Point, 417, 418
Lodianaya River, 643
LoL'ch Island, 309
Lee Rock, 324
Lees, Point, 451
Lcgamo Bay, 20
Leyarde Rock, 869
Legiep Islands, 724
Lchua Island, 856
Lelc, Port, 741
Leleiwi Point, 829
Lemon Mountain, 421
Lemon Point, 8
l^empa River, 3, 63, 66, 66
Lcnartes Islands, 28
Lengua Point, 142
Leon, 43

Leonard Island, 342
Loon Lake, 3, 48, 49
Loones Island, 17
Loontovitch, Cape, 618
Leskoff, Cape, 618
I.cssops, Cape, 682
liuwis Channel, 406
li'nvis Uenf, 324
Lexington Reef, 897
Lialiuskigh, 603
Lilieria, 29
Li ben ad. Port, 2, 3, 63, 64,

GO
Lib Island, 730
Liddel Point, 302, 304-5
Likicb Isluads, 724

Lileb Island, 728
Li'.c'.ot Lakes, 404
Limantour EdCoro do, 106,

199
Limestone Island, 371, 413
Lime Point Bluff, 187, 189
Limestone Point, 333
Linda Rock, 888
Lindsay Island, 816
Lindsay, Port, 668
Linekinskoy, Cape, 673
Linglingai Mountain, 645
LiniKiz Islands, 732
Ijinschotcn Islands, 892
Lisinnsky Island, 865
Littlo Goat Island, 884
Little Group, The, 295
Littlo Hat Rock, 134
Livingston Island, 769
Lizard Point, 97, 98
Llorona Pta., 33
Llorotto, 135
Lloyd, Port, 879, 882
Lobos Island, 134, 875
Lobos Point, 126, 176, 186
Ijod Harbour, 749
Loffzoff Cape, 667
Logo River, 641
Log Point, 370
Loma, Point, 161, 156, 167
Lone Cone, 343, 347
Long Bay, 341
Long Harbour, 303
Long Island, 246, 281, 777,

781
Longounor Island, 766
Loo-choo Islands, 893
Lookout Cape, 218, 229, 231
Lookout Island, 362-3
Lopatka, Cape, 551, 661, 668
Lopez Island, 267, 275, 274,

281
Lopez Island and Sound,

282
Lord Island, 365
Lord North Island, 782, 784
Lorenzo Point, 6
Loreto, 135, 153
Loreto, Gulf or Sea of, 122
Losap Island, 765
Los Martircs Island, 760
Los Romedtos, 24
Lottin Islsnd, 777
Lottin, Port, 740
Lot's Wife Rock, 630
Louasappe Island, 755
Louisa, Cape, 657, 664
Louiscoon, 443
Louis, Port, 687-8
Lowenorn, Cape, 577
LiJwenstem, Cape, 675
Low, Cape, 581
Low' Island, 284, 288, 296,

646
Low Peninsula, 342
Low Point, 242
Low Table Point, 590
liOw Woody Islands, 097
Lutan Point, 469

Lu-chu, Groat, 898
Lu-(^hu Islands, 687, 893
Ludlow, Port, 264
Jiugrun, 538
Luis Harbour, 797
Luke Point, 592
Lukunor Island, 755
Luminan Reefs, 800
Lummi Island, 269, 270
Lungar Point, 740
Luta Island, 803
Liitko, Capo, 606
Liitke Island, 759
Lyall Harbour, 290
Lyall Point, 339
Lydia Island, 762
Lydia Islands, 728
Lynn Canal, 461, 465
Lyons River, 589
Lyre River, 254
Ly Hon, City of, 381

Macapule River, 124
Macarius Islanil, 53 1
Macartney I'oiiit, 460
MacAskill Islands, 742
Macauley I'oint, 322
Macedonia Reef, 637-8
Machaguista, 85
Mackaw Reef, 741
Mackenzie IsLinds, 766
Mackenzie Point, 492
Mackerroy, 843
MacLaughlin Point, 322
Macnamara Point, 46.i
Macroon Hill, 439
Madan Point, 454
Mad River, 209
Madara Sima, 668
Madeira Volcano, 45
Madera, 48
Madison, Port, 259
Madre Sierra, 71, 83
Magdalena, 106
Magdalena Bay and Gulf,

'41
Magdalena Islands, 143
Maghyr_Island, 760
Maghyrarik Island, 760
Mrtgicienno Bay, 8, 809
Maglares Point, 1 35
l^Iagnetic Island, 22, 24
Magnetic Variation, 962
Mahilone Hill, 803
Maiana Island, 715
Uajaguay Island, 9
Ma uro Island, 721
Makahanaloa Point, 820
Makanruru Island, 665
Makapua Citpe, 846
Makin Island, 708, 717
Makouchinskoy Bay, 608
Makua Bay, 847
Malabrigos Islands, 877
Mala, C.ipe, 6, 16
Mulaekan Islind, Peak, and

Harbour, 773-4
Mula du los Indios, Pta, 34

?■ fc ?^ c:jj jtggn«g?T--'« g-!tfi ii JmtfJJ i |!J ' JWl4V ' '"-' ' ^>atJ }

90d

INDEX.

Mnla I'oint, 34, 41
Mtilii, Piintrt, Wi
Miilii81>in» Cape, 666
MttlHspinH, Strait and Inlot,

391, 401, 402, 406
Malay, Capo, 16
THnlcolm iHland, 417, 418
Makono'B iHland, 7Ul
Maiden Island, 699
MalkBopo Inlet, 363
Malloon'H Inland, 791
Malmocbury, Port, 469
Maloi'lab iHlands, 7'22
Malpulo Island, 694
Maltn Bnin Point, 687
Mamori, Cape, 781
Miinagasa Inland, 808
ManaKUH, Lake, 3, 48
Mnnaita Kocks, 603, 600
Mana Point, 863-4
Mana-Houari Island, 781
Manati, Cape, 648
Manatsnru Promontory, bil
Manby Point. 479
Miinchuna, Coast of, o»o,

686
Mandarin Bluff, 641 ,
Mangles lioad and Point,

136
Mnng Oosaki, 614
Mangrove Bluff, 97
Mangrove Island, 142
Manguo Island, 9
Alaiiguora Island, 67
JIanjas Islands, 814
Mannaijeu Bank, 760
Ttlau-ot-War Rock, 863
Miintapeii Rocks, 746
Mants Rocks, 746 i

Manuel Antonio Island, ii |
Manuel Rodriguez Reef, 793 ^
Manzana Island, 65
ManzaniUa and Bay, 98, 99,

Mnnznnilla, White Island

of, 101
Manziu Island, 604
Maple Kav, 299
Maple Point, 393
Mnquinna Point, 351
Marabioa Mountains, 49
Marnki Island, 716
Mararet Islands, 877
Marcus Island, 876
Margaret Islands, 877
Margarotta Islands, 729
Margarita Islands, 143
Muria, Cape, 574
Maria do Aome River, li!o
Maria Island, 711
Maria Laxaiu Island, 859
Maria Madro Island, 106 _
Mariana Islands, 736, 78o,

793
Marias, Tres, 104, 107
Mariato Point, 17
Mariern Island, 783
Marii^tas Islinds, l.as, 1U4
Maricusk Post, 066

Maritch River, 639
Mark Hill. 365
ISIark Maud, 329, 334, 338
Alaro Href, 863
Mar, Piodra do, 106
Marqups Port, 93, 96
Marrowstono Point, 2o7
Marsden, Point, 464
JIarsden, Port, 468
Marshall Archipelago, 694,

708,718,733,877
Marshalllsland, 707, 7'6
Marshall Point, 402, 406
Marsh Rjof, 894
Martin Island, 403
Maru-yama Point, 619
Marvinas Bay, 351-2
Mary Basin, 356
Mary Island, 407, 409
Masachapa, 47
Masapa, 47
Ma-sima, 608
Maskloyne Point, 432, 434
Masmapi, 781
Massacre Bay, 286, 516
Massachusetts Island, 866
Masset Harbour, 439
Masui Sima, 602
Matenchol, 104
Matapalo Point, 30, 31, io
Mataua Island, 664
Matelotas Islands, 769
Matia Island, 277, 281
Matilda Cove, 346
Matoya Harbour, 621
Matsniai, 648, 666
Mats Sima, 675
Matsu Island, 607
Matsumae, 656
MatsumaH, Cape, 661
Matsu Saki, 659
Matsuyker, Cape, 654
MattererBay, 779
Matthew Island, 707, 716
Mattole River, 206
Matty Island, 777
Matui-osaki, 662
Matvoi Island, 631
Maud Island, 412
Maude Island, 391
Maui Island, 819, 840
Manna Hualali, 827
Mauna Haleakala, 841
Manna Kea Mountain, 827
Mauna Loa Mountain, 826,

827
Mauna o Eeka, 841
Maury Passage, 282, 283
May, Port, 689
Mayor Channel, 324
Mayo, Rio del, 126
Mayne Bay, 339
Mayne Island, 290, 302
Mazatlan, 81, 112, 138
McDonald's Creek, 206
McKare llarbtmr, 281
MrKaj- Rtcf, 342
:Mil,Oud Uaibdur, 487
McLou^hlin, Fort, 429

JIcNnil Bay, 323
McNeil Island, 263
McNeill, Port, 417
Meaburii Island, 764
Meac Sima tJroup, 682
Mcarns, Capo, 230
Mcaros Island, 313
Muares, Port, 468
Mearos Raef, 888
Medidor Island, 20, 21
Modny Island, 649
M< duro Island, 721
Moetchken, Cape , 544
Mogami Point, 676
Moiaco-sima, 687, 899
Meiggsville, 205
ltluin«hyngai Mountain, oW
Mejima, 662
Mejit Island, 724
Mela Lodge, 643
Mela Point and Lodge, 039
MoUish Bank, 875
Melones Island, 15
Melville, Port, 898
M. moyah, 646
Jlenchikoff, Cape, 520
Mendocino Bay, City, and

Cape, 204-206
Itlendogino, Cape, 162, 17o
Menshikof, Cape, 684
Menzies Bay, 412
Menzics Point, 427
:Merat Island, 779
Mercenarios Bay, 136
Merizo Harbour, 798
Mortens, Capo, 639, 640
Mortens Monument, 739
Mesa do Roldan, 56
Mesa, La, 818
Mosas do Juau de ttomez,

Mesas de Narvaea, Las, Hi

Mo Sima, 682

Mesurior Ponit, 463, 482

Metalanien Harbour, 743

Metatchingui Mountain, o4f)

:Metchigm, 638

Mexico, West Coast, 78, 914

Miadi Island, 724

Miaki Island, 626, 627, 671

lilichael Leymour Point, o JO

Michaelovski Fort, 524

Michatoyat or Michitoya

River, 73
Micronesia, 708
:Middlobrook Islands, 809
Middle Channel, Rosuno

Strait, 277
Middle Reef, 356
Midway Islands, 869
Mieco, 610
Uiiiii Point, 40, 41
Mihara, 607
Miltasa, 673
Miknwa Bay, 621
^likoinoto Island, 033
Jlikumi, and Roads, 002
Alikiira Island, 627
Millwuk Sound, 428

•■•*-.

323
1, 263
t, 417
iid, 761
roup, 682
, 230
[1,343
, 458

888

nd, 20, 21
d, 649
1(1, 721
Cape, 544
[it, 676
, 687, 899

205
li Mountain, 040

1, 724

,643

(ind Lodge, 639

ik, 876

and, 16

art, 898

340

, Cape, 620

Buy, City, and
1—206
, Cape, 152, 175

Cape, 684
vy, 412
)int, 427
nd, 779
)8 Bay, 136
,rbour, 798
^apo, 539, 640
[onument, 739
.oldan, 66

818

Juau do Gomes'.,

Narvaea, Las, 141

682

Po.iit, 463, 482

n Harbour, 743

igui Mountain, 545

1, 538

Vest Coast, 78,914

and, 724

and, 626, 627, 671

joymour Point, 690

vski Fort, 524

at or Michitoya

'»a. 708

•ook Islands, 869
Channel, Kosano
277

teef, 356
Islands, 869
>10

)int, 40, 41
607
673

. Bav, 621
,to Island, 633
, and Koii'ls, 602
Island, 627
i !:juund, 428

Milo Rooks IS''

Milo liotk Bitmker, 364

Milos Cone, 421

Mili Island, 720

Millo Islands, 720

Minaj?o Point, 676, 679

Minusi, 606

Minatitlan, 84

Minato Mountains, C50

Mine Chimney, 389

Blinurs Hay, 305

Miners (Jhannol, 295

Mingan Itock, 587

Mino Mimn, 6(i4

Jlinotyo Hay, 615

Minto Brenktrs, 754

Minx U(!of, 290

Jlio^a, 620

Mioija Siraa, 619

Jlio^ani-yaraa Slounlnin,

633. 644
Mira Island, La, 875
Miramimtns Puint, 180, ISl
Mira-por-voi, 817
Misaki, and Bay, 680
Jlisama Naila, 001, GOO
Mississippi Bay, 6U
Misana Island,' 635
JSIisipi Island, 789
Mistaken Island, 303
Misumi Harbour, 005
Mitake Island, 627
Mitiilanien Harbour, 750
Mita Point, 104
Mitarai, 607
Mitazidi, 606
Mitchell Bay, 418
Mitchell Harbour, i i 1
Mitchell Island, 706
Mitchell, Point, 455
Mitchigmensk Bay, 536, 538
Mitkoff, Cape, 618
Mitsuna Island, 900
Mittlonatch Island, 397, 398,

409
Mitzuse Rocks, 674
Miya Saki, 616
Moai Island, 763
Modoo-papappa Island, 856
Modnenete Kock, 846
Modu-manu, 866
Moffet, Cape, 518
Moffat Rock, 419
Mogato, 47
Mogi Bay, 680
Mogmog Island, 766
Moira Sounil, 453
Mukapu Peninsula. 846
Moke-tas Island, 361
Mikil Islands, 742
Mokor Islands, 767
Moleje Bay, 136
Moleje River, 134
Molflxe, 127
Moller Bay, 619
KloUer Island, 864
Jlolokai Island, 826, 846
Molokini Rock, 844
Moluilui Bay, 847

If^orth I'acijic.

INDEX.

Momohacho, 46
Moinoliacho Volcano, 47
Moinotombita, 50
Mon.Dfombo, 49
Mona Island, 26
Monarch Hoad, 290
Monday Hhoal, 370
Mongs Islands, 814
Monita Bay, 21
Monita Island, 26
Monjos, Los, 818
Monjos Islands, Los, 776
Monk's (>ato, 13
Monks Islands, 776
Monkonrushy Island, 502
Alonncron Island, 579
Montague ('hannri, 399
Montague Harbour, 300
Montague Island, 131
Montagu Island, 483, 4H7
Jlonterey and Bay, 176, 182
Monte Santo Mountain, 744
IMontovi'rdo Islands, 752
Montgomery Ciroiip, 898
Jlonitus Islands. 20
.Montijo Bay, 17
JIontsHvratP, 136
Montuosn, 28
Jloody, Port, 384— 3S6
Moore Channul, 442
Moore Island, 772
Moral, Cape, 713
Mordvinoff, Capo, 606
Mordwinoff Bay, 677
Moresby Island, 296, 436
Moresby Passage, 296
^loresby I'assago & Islands,

289
Morjovi Island, 531, 632,

634
Morjovskoi, 618
Moroisi Reef, 638
Morokini Rock, 844
Morotoi Island, 846
Morotzu, Cape, 602
More Yosi Harbour, 667
Morrell Island, 874
Morrison Rocks, 892
Morro Point, 83
Morrotinnee Rock, 844
Morse Island, 292, 294, 631
Morses Island, 634
Mortlock Islands, 765, 757
Mosi Saki, 6ti4
Mosquito Harbour, 344
Mosquito River, 690
Mosquito Passage, 293-4
Moto Island, 608
Motogozeu Island, 764
Jloto Yama, 606
Mouatt Reef, 323
Mouiitt Point, 304
Mougoul Island, 742
Moule Bay, 587
Mourileu Islands, 758-9
Mowee Island, 840
Muchaiet Arm, .?53
Mudge, C=«pe, 391, 397, 408,

411

00.1

Mudge Inland, 310

Murla Isliinil, 21

MiiorloM Isl.ind, 27

Mugu Point, 100, 101

Mnko Siina, 607

Mulgravn Islands, 720, 731,
742

Mulgravn, Port, 477

SIullinH Island, 336

Mulofl'sky, Ciipo, 570

.Multnnniah Rivor, 230

MunicnoUi, 675

Murakamp, 009

Miiraviff Annursky Pro-
montory, 5S9

Muri'ic'lagos Islands, 41

Miirmy, C'lipc, 443

MiiHoir Rock. 587

MuMHiillo Islands, 730

Miiss.l Canal, 42',t

Mussd Point, 04 7

JMussol Rock, 343

Mutino Point, 331

Mutiny Bay, 258

JIutok Island, 746

MutokiiloJ Rock, 746

Miitsu Sima, 008

Jluznn, Cajic, 458

Myadsu, 603

Mysory Island, 7S0

Jlystory Rock, 405

Naa Island, 750
Nacaome River, 66
Nacascolo, Port, 46
Nadeogsda island, 66()
Naden Hound, 440
Nadeslidn Hay, 574
Nadiojeda Bay, 674
Nadiojda, Capo, 651, 666
Nadiejda Rocks, 681
Nadicjda Strait, 504
Nagano Sima, 674
Nagasaki, 670, 673, 679, 683,

686
Nagasaki, and Harbour, 670,

677
Nagasaki Peninsula, East

Coast, 680
Nagasaki Peninsula, West

Coast, 676
Nagato Province, 664
Nagay Island, 602
Naginato Rock, 676
Naguiscola, Port, 40
Naguh, 898
Nahmiut Bay, 332
Nahwitti Bar, 420, 422
Naiad Islands, 751
Najassee Bay and River,

583
Nakase Rock, 614
NMka Sima, 614, 893
Niikko Head, 579
Naknok Rivor, 620
Nakosi, 666
Naku Harbour, 699
Nalan Island, "41
Nalap Island, 748

- -:S*«fB»@,(MS#5*V

895,

'.94

Niuiinrik IhIiiihIh, 731

Nan.b.1, Chiio. (Uft, 047. 662
Nami-kiri-8iiki, (i'il
Namo Islim.lK, 7':i>
Namolinour l»laivl, 7f>^
Namolipi'ifHtio IhIkixI. 70"
Namoluk IhI.iii.Ih, 757
Namouino iHlatiil, 7f>.>
Namonuito IkIuihI, 7jJ
Namou iHlanil, 7'28
NamouiouNHO Manrt 70»

Namoiittrk iHliind, 70^

Numurock iHliind, 731

NamuiTuk l8lan<l, H>'i

Nanek Uivt-r, fi'^",^,^

Niinimnk Isliiml, OOi

Nnnaimo, 299, 300

Niinuimo and Harbour, J»»

Nannimoo Tusb, 378

Naiiao, Ct'l

Kiinaviilio, S28

Nanooz..' Harbour and liui,

391
Naiiouantoughnt I^ako, 497,

620
Nanoviki Iblnud, 713
Nanouti, 713
Nanow, fiOl
Navbn, 89» ^ ,
Navha Kiaiig Road,

897

Napoleon Ctiilf, ^SO
Napoli on Uoad, S87
Naianjn8 Island, 17
Naranjoa l^lllnda, 34
Naranjo I'oint, 34
Nanowgut Crock, 300
Narrow Island, 307
Norrow Islands, 352
Narrow»,Thn, 332, 38iJ
NaruChannol, ca
Naruto Passage, 610, 614
Narusi Kock, 603, 605
Naru Bima, 671
Na Saki Island, 6Si
Nasal River, 245
Nash Bank, 396
Na Sima, 667
Niisparti Inlot, 364
Nass Bay, 434
Nass River, 434
Nata, 10

Nat-a-hatB Lagoon, 230
Nathan, Cape, 43
Natividad, 147
Native Point, 308
Natsungii Saki, 664
Nautilus Rock, 889
Nautilus Shoal, 7U
Navarin, C'ape, 646
Navidad Bay and Head,

100-1, 104
Navidad Rock, 101
Navy Channel, 291
Nawoda Island, 717
Neavas Island, 866
Nethcsne River, 229

INDKA'.

Ncckrr Islanil. S60
N(Mk Point, 2SI
N,.ii.niiiiic.bu Uiver, 24.J
Ned's Rocks, 217
Nee.ah Bay, 224. 249, 252
Niicdlo Mountain, 5,i4
Needle Rock, 350
Noogtehan, Cape, 639, 540
Negada Point, 17
Negrito Hlufl', 22
Negritos Islands, 3/, 60
Nuhalom River, 230
Nekas Uiver, 229
Nelson Island, 403-4
Nelson Point, 450
Nenioro, Port, 654
Nepean Point, 400
Nipcan Hcumd, 430
Nevro)> Island, 4" 3
N(sbitt Point, 455
Nest\iggah River, 229
Nettle Island, 330
Ne\iHkHh'l, 247
Neva ChiUiuel, 467
Neva Kiver, 570
Neva Shoal and Island, 860,

806
Noviirro River, 204
Neville Island, 784
Neville, Port, 415
Now Aberdeen, 428
New Albion, 153
New Archangel, 446
New Biildnyo Island, 789
New Bank, 370
Newcastle Island, 312, 389
New Channel, 423
New Cornwall, 376
Newenham, Capo, 620-1 ^
New Granada, Coast ot, o
New Hanover, 376
Now Harbour, 773
New Island, 789, 859, 866
Newmarket, 262
New Market Isknd, 700
New Nantucket Island, 703
New Point, 247
New Westminster, 382-d
New Year Island, 724
New York Island, 701
Nezumi Sima, 608
Nezu Sima, 608
Ngarvk Islands, 762
Ngatik Islands, 752
Ngoli Islands, 769
Niaur Island, 775
Nicaragua, and Lake, a, «<>,

47, 49
Nicoya Gulf, 29, 35, 37
Niegatn, 659
Nieleo Creek, 230
Nigo Point, 802
Nihoa Island, 866
Nil Sima, 626
Niihau Island, 822, 8o5
Nikla, Cape, 672
Nikolaevsk, 686
Nikolskoi, 613
Nile Rock, 403

Nile Rlionl, "03
Nimpkish Hank, 418

Nimpkish Uiver, 417
Ninepin Roek, 688
Ninirlioiin, Cape, 643, 514

Ninmolchou Keel, (40
Nipon Island, 590, I) •>
Nipoii, Kasl Coast, 646
Nipon, West Coast, Oo7
Nipple Hill, 148
Nisi Sima, 664
Nis.,uallv, 218, 262, 2t.,i
Nitinat liiike, 328
Nizumi Sima, 676
Nob Point, 281, 330, 300
1 Nodahs Canal, 413
I Noel, Port, 723
Nogowmo Sima. oim
Niusak, Cape, 500
Nokona, 006
No-ko-no Sima, 000
Noma Sima, 615
Noini, 000
Nomo, Capo, 680
Nomo Rock, 675
Nomo Saki, 673-4
Nomo Ura Haibour.O, >
Nomoyama Point, 074
Noo-nar\iook Island, f).iO
Noondav Hock, 199
Nootka Island, 354
Nootka Sound, 210, 316, il»,

350, 919
No Point, 259
Norfolk Bay, 920
Norfolk Sound, 472
Norman Point, 396
Norris Rock, 396
North Bay, 247, 278
North Bay Reef, 018
North Bay, Saghahn, 5.J
North Channel, 346
North Island, 490
North Reef, 308
Northumberland, Cape, 4o.
Northumberland Channel,

310, 390
Norton Sound, 523
Nose Peak, 368
No Sima, 643. 676

Nosima Reef, 617
' Nosima Point, 632, 639
Nosovskoi Volcano, 506
Nossyam, Capo, 664
NoBsyab, Cape, 579, bo '
Notched Hill, 391
Notch Island, 602
Note, Capo, 660, 861
Notoro, Cape, 677
Notsky, Port, 654
Nouchagak River, 621
Nougouore Islands, loi
Noumagmo, <^ape, 636
Nouneangan Island, 541
Nouniagmo and Cape, bib
Noushagak River, o21
Nova Chista, 125
Novik Bay, 589
Novogerod Harbour, 58. -«

INDKX.

u;»5

>unk, 41H
Uver, 417
Hk, MH

t'lipo, fi43, 114
u llPff, 740
ml, 5»0, Oir.
It Coast, 64fi
.gt Coast, 007
11, 148

664

218, 262, 203
ike, 328
ma, 676
;, 281, 330, 3li«
ianftl, 413
t, 723
) Hiinii. 606
',n\w, 606
306

8imn, 060
nu, oia

i])o, 680
)ok, 676
ki, 673-4
rii Hiubonv, 6..>
iim I'oint, 674
hook IhIuiiJ. f'SO
- Hock, U>0
Islund, 354
tound,2l6,316,31S,

t, 269
Bny, 920
Sound, 4 7 2
1 roiiit, 396
liock, 396
3ay, 247, 278
3av Reef, 618
Bay, Saghalin, 574
Channel, 346
iBland, 496
Uoef, 308

imborland. Cape, 4ui
imberland Channel,
390

I Sound, 523
'eak, 368
na, 643, 675
a Koef, 617
,a Point, 632, 639
skoi Volcano, 606
am, Capo, 654
ab, Cape, 579, 65 (

,ed Hill, 391
I Island, 602
Cape, 660, 861
■0, Cape, 677
[y. Port, 664
hanak Kiver, 621
;ouore Islands, 752
nagmo, Cape, 636
leangan Island, 841
liagmo and Cape, 631)
ihagak River, 521
I Chista, 126
k Bay, 589
:)gorod Harbour, 68 (-«

Nnvosilzov, Ciipc, (ititi
Novv IhIiiucIm, 6ltU
Now'cU I'oint, 4H6
Noyon HiviT, 201
Nulilu.la ImIiiiicI, 787
Nuclmilitz liili't, 3.)l
Nm-hutlit/. \{vu(, 36.)
Niiinak l»linil, 602
Niikimaii Inland, 710
Niikuiir InIiiiuIh, 752
Niiliito, 62;t
NiiiiiiikainiN Hav, 329
Niiiiiwak l-laiiii, 622
Nut histritt, 716
Niiiiaiiii Valli'y. 847
Nvi?tchyjjruti, Capt', 538
Nyo Rock, 424

(tahii Isliind, 819, 816

Oahii Plantation, 817

( >,.k H;iy, 268, 324

Oak Point, 217

( )ar Channel and Ruuf, 897

Kaxaca, 81

( lliispo llock, 96

Obreo Channel, 668

(Miroo Island, 665

Observation Cove, 102

Oliservation Rock, 21

Observatory Island, 343,

370, 682, 672
Observatory Island and In-
let, 332, 432, 434
Observatory Peak, 149
Ol)servatory Point, 254
Oliservatory Rock 668

Otpsorvatory Rocks, 310

Obstruction Island, 34(>

Obstruction Island ami Paa-
siiges, 276, 283, 280

Ocean Islnn I, 717, 808

Oceati Islanils, 728

0.lawara Ray, 632, 037, 038,
613

Odia Islands, 730

Odutsi Mountain, 609

Uijarai Point, 676

o'j,'awa RlulF, 686

O^awa River, 603

Of,'dcn Point, 322

tl-lu Island, 893

O-lodak Island, 614

Ohealakee, 417

Ohiak Bay, 496

Olio Saki, 640, 673

Ohosima, 625, 652, 893

Ojiina, 662

Ojo Point, 24

Ok,imura, 607

tikatashima, 663

Okawa Point, 659

Okebots, Cape, 666

Okhotsk, 570

Okhotsk, Sea of, 667

Old Island, 608

Oki Islands, 604

Okiuawa Sima, 895

Okiuii NI.iihIh, <i(>3

< >ki Sinia, (i73

Okino Sinia, Mount, 600,

616
Oko Island, 699
Okimiri Islan.j, 662, 661
Oku-Jesso Uivor, 673
Okuno, 607
(Map lslan>l, 760
Old Port llav, 609
t nifii Hay, 61)0
( Miniarao Islands, 763
Olioutor Uiver, 660
Obit Island, 723
Olutorskui, Cape and Oidl',

617
Olynipia, 263
Olympus Mountain, 21S
Olympus Mountains, 2 IS
Omao-saki, 621, 636, 612
Oinaski Sinia, 616
Ommaney, Cape, 469, 467
Omotepo Island, 48
Omolepec or Oniotepetiuo

Volcano, 46, 49
Omuru Rock, 891
Onango-sima, 028
Ouata Islands, 781
Onavero Isliml, 717
O'Neal Island, 279
Oueeheow Island, 866
One-milu Rucks, 186
One Tree Island, 422
Oiigai Island, 742
Ongolukkin Eyland, 628

Oiniekotan Island, 664

Onnodake Mountain, 890

Oium River, 684

Onoatoa Island, 711

Oiiohar.i, 627

Onooun Island, 760

Unooup Island, 760

Onslow Point, 463, 456

Ontinsj, Port, 898

Onuni Island, 771

Oobiki Uura, 617

Oo-ghe-o-ak Island, 530

Ookomiira Hay, 676

(JonuUa Island, 508

Congo Sima, 614

Oorokoo Isbmd, 773

Oosaka, and Gulf, 610-11

OoSaka, Uult'of, 601

Oosaka Roads, 612

Oosima, 681

Oo-sima Island, 625

Oo-sims Harbour, 619

Ooto Nizavoo, Cape, 066

Ooujak Bay, 496

Open Bay, 293, 372, 408

Opolu Point, 833

Opooroah, 848

Oiaitlilipou Bank, 702
Oraluk Island, 763
Orange Point, 412
Orcas Island, 273, 275, 277,

279, 281, 284-5, 379
Orwis Nob, 278
Orchard, Port, 259

Ori'eboiiii Island, 860

( >regon City, -I-

( h'egon, Coast of, 216

Oiiord Hay, 410

Orford, Cape, 213

Orfoid Reef and Cape,
222

Orford, Port, 220-1

Oniud Island, 7.!3

Orolong Island, 776

Orcmo Sima, 666, 687

Orosi, Peak of, 12

Orosi Vidc.ano, 46

Orote Point, 800

Oroti Point, 799

Osaki and Hay, 616

Osakiuye Islaiiil, 607

Oslxu-n Hay, 299

Ose Saki, (172

O-sinia, 607—609, 666

Osima Islands, 621

t t-simi, 666

Ostrovki Islinds, 633

Otakara Point, 672

Otato Island, 670

Utdia Islands, 723

Otmoloi, Cape, 676

Oloipie Island, 15

Otra Island, 876
Otsisi, Capo, 583
Otsu-no-saki, 609
Otter Bay, 301
Ollur Cove, 413
Ottor Poini, 317
Otters, Bay of, 607-8
Otters, Island of, 514
Otzuno Saki, 610
Oualan I-.bind, 739
Ouchouganat lslan<l, 490
Oudagagh Chaunul, 608
Ouda, Fort and River,

572
Oudskoi, Fort, 672
Ouektok Island, 606
Ougagouk River, 497, 601
Ougalgin Island, 608
Ougamok Island, 506
O'lgatchik River, 520
Oiignagak, 503
Oiikamok Island, 502
t)ukiiiskoi. Cape, 552
Oukivok Island, 527
Ouloai Islands, 704
Oulenieray Island, 765
Oiiliakhpen, Capo, 642-3
Ouliagi) Mountain, 610
Ouluthy Island, 706
Oumnak Island, 509
Ouniaknagh Island, 608
Oumnak Strait and Island,

509
Ounalga Inland, 508, 515
Ounalga Strait, 611
'Ounalashka Island, 607
Ouiialik Island, 760
Ounatcbogh, 503
Ounga Island, 502
( (unimak. Cape, 620
Ouuimak Island, 604-5

«*>i nf #)iU'j<jimtf j M. , j^ MW>a*»g*^'

OiiniiniiU Hlrait iiml IhI'iikIh, [

r,m „„ I

«)ii.oii-k)iiH»i Iiilut, 3fi9, 30J I

Owiiri ISay, ti'il
()«(!ii IhIiihJ, ;hu
Ow)iyhi li«liiii<l. «''^''
^ )\vhylu'(: Isliiiiil, 8'^ti
OvKitT l*iiy, ;w7
(»y»tur Iliirlioiir, 'IW
o'vhtcr iHliind, M'i
O/iTtioi, Cup*', ''">i5
(.)/./,iir(l, Mount, JUO

riiiiiioiiii iHliind, 717
I'laiivo VoU'iino, 74
riichiaa Cliiinnol, 7
I'lithcctt iMliinJ, 7
I'lichenn liny, 'i'^*^
I'li-chuiiK-""" iMlonil*! """
I'acific City, 241
I'licilique iHlnnd, 803
Piii'ora Island, 20
VadiUu Hay, 208-9
I'adrnH, 1;15
rafla, Capo, 140
riijifan iMand, 813
raKhdiHli, Oiil>i', /)40
I'ligo Harbour, HO'^
i'anon Inland, I. '3
I'ai^'oobnov Strait, 407
i'aicpouc Covo, 803
I'ajaro, Baliia dpi, 21^
I'ajaro, Jiiodel, 21, l<8
I'H.'jaros Id., 7, 22, 05, 114
I'ajaros, Islas du Ion, U3
I'HJuros Uocks, 9, 126
Takunluun Toint, 485
I'akiiun Inlands, 751
Pakin Islands, 75!
I'ala Point, 117
Paluos Islands, 770
Palinquo Island, 25, 1,
Palau Islands, 770
Pali, The, 850
P .li Kulau District, 846
Pallada Uoad, 587
I'allou Islands, 768
Piillas Mountain or Peak,

050
Pallas IJockB, 682-3
Palliou Island, 705, 770
I'alma, Cape, 140
Palmer Point, 337
P.du.cr Ki^ef, 859, 860
Pulnicrston, Capo, 373
Paluiyia IbI'iu'I- 701
I'lilux Kivor, 244
Pamplona Uock, 480
Panaloya River, 48
Panama, 10
Panama Bay, 6 911
Panama, Tsthnnis and liaii

road, 1
Panama Kccf, 208
Pan do Azucur, 37
Pander Island, 414
Pundora Peak, 316

INDKX.

\'mv Hay, 711

I'liniin lliirbour, 745

l'aiaiKvi}{uniut, 520

I'iipawayo, 52

l'ii]mKavo, I>i«lit of, 40

PaponburK lUutl, 070

I'aponburtf lslan<l, 6*3

Paroco Villa, 888

I'ariila, 2H

Paridas Islands, 27

ParitJi Hay. 15 i

Parker Island, 30<i

Park, r. Point. 404

Parker Uoef, 281

Parkor Slioal. 590

Park Hill, 278

Parry Hay, 319

Piirry Channel. 436, 440

i'arry (>ro\ip, Tlu', 880

I'aiTy's Island, 732

ParlridRO Point, 257, 200

Parum Hock, 740

Pa-icalo Hay, 620

Pasloy Island, 400

Pas(i«iel, 48

Pacsane Canal, 48/i, 402

Passage Island, 386, 489

I'assano Roof, 667

Passago Rock, 9, 285, 342,

400
Passago Rocks, 080
Passage Ueof, 618
Passages, 953-976 _

Cape Horn to Califomui
and Hritish Columbia, 953
—959; British California
and Australia, 959; Pa-
nama to Califonilu, 901 ;
California, &o., to Peru,
965 ; Central Amorica,
Jl.'xico, Sic, 905 ; South-
ward and I'anama, Ofiii ;
Panama Westward, 900 ;
Galapagos Islands to Capo
.•:m Lucas, 967; Soulh
"vi<'a to Central A luo-
rica, ")8; Coast of Cali-
fornia. 969 ; San Franeis-
eo. 970 ; Hotwcen Califor-
nia iind China, 972 ; Be-
tween the Islands, &c.,
973 ; ArrosB the Equator,
I 974 ; ^;•^.^dwich Islands,
to th'i N'Tthvard and
EHsiwav.'i, '. f'4
! Passarer;^ Israid, 102
' PassioT< 1 i\ .nd or Rock, 786
Past'j'iiK, .-24
Patay I'oint, 802
Paterson Islands, 729
Patey Rock. 297
Patience, Cape, and Bay,

670
Pntino Point, 6
Patoa Road, 843
Patos Islands, 378, 280-1,

288
Patos, Dclos, 130
Patrocinio Island, 874

Paukaa Point, 829
I'anlngui' Islands, 770
I'iivlovMkaia Hay, 518
I'livo Island, 23
I'lizaca Hiver, 03
Paz Harbour, I<a, 130
I'azas River, 72
Piiza. Rio, 03
I "(acock Channel, 339
I'.uceck Spit, 211
I'earee Point, 431
P„itpodB, The, 276
Peirfl Archipelago, 6
Pearl and Ilermes Reef, 8()0
Pearl Lagoon, The, 84K
Pearl Hiver Harbour, 818
Pearl Rocks, 426
Pearse Islands, 418
Pearson Island, 403
Pedan Islands, 781
Ped.ler Hay, 319
Podder Island, 721
Pedro-nales, 172
Podemalcs Point, 172
IVol Island, 419, 880, 881
Peguencma Islands, 751
IVile Point. 303, 306
Pejaros Point, 21
IVlado Islet, 10
1 P(.lef8 Islands, 588
IVlelep Island, 742
Pelelow Island, 776
Pelow Islands, 734, 770
Pelican Bay, 213, 219
Peligrosa, El Canal, 130
Pell Island, 806
Ptllew, Point, 486
Pender Harbour, 403
Pender Island, 290-1
Pcnjina River, 509
Penj nsk H;iy, 547
Pouiii'gnoi Hay, 539-40
Pen .ell Island, 893
Penn Islands, 409
I'enn's Cove, 20ii
I'equena Hay, 142, 144
Percy, Po...., 453
Perilona Rock, 23
Porico Islaml, 13
Perigiie Kock, 15
Pcrlas Islands, 6
Pernicious Strait. 407
Peroat Islind. 711
Perouse Strait, La, 578
Perpotua, Cape, 228
Perry Bay, 8
Perry Islaml, 041, 886
P.rrv Rock, 290
Peru" Island, 708, 710
Perula Bay, 102
Pescado Blanco Bay, 147
Pescadore Islands, 726
Pestchanoi Point, 588
Petaluma Creek, 201
Pefaplan Hill, 90
Petatlan, Morro do, 90
Peter tho Great Bay, 589
Potillo Point, 12
Petrel Island, 791

iNi)i<:ix

1M17

nt, 820
.liimiH. 770
I Hay, 6lb

I. -r.i

1 r, ti.'l

ir, liO, 136

r,7.J

(13

innncl, 330

lit, 'ill

nt, 431

'ho, 275

ipuliigo, 6

I [(Tines lUn)(, 800

K)n, Tho, HtH

r Harbour, 818

[a, 426

uidH, 418

iland, 403

ind*', 7Sl

.y, ail)

iiind, 721

DH, 172

i Point, 172

d, 419, 880, 881

la iHlnnds, 761

it. 303, 306

oint, 21

lot, 10

«ud», 588

jliind, 712

8knd, 776

ands, 734, 770

lay, 213, 210

, El Canal, 130

id, 865

•oiiit, 486

lavbo\»r, 403

nlaiid, -iOO-l

Itiver, 569

n;.v, 547
r:i liiiv, 539-40
Islmul, 893
aiidH, 409
Jove, 261)

Hav, 142, 141
•o...., 453

Uoik, 23
sland, 13

liock, 13
sland B, 6
Ills Stiiiit, 467

Khnd, 711

Strait, La, 578
a. Cape, 228
!av, 8

Hkn.l, 641, 886
took, 290
land, 708, 710
Bay, 102

I Blanco Bay, 147
ire Islands, 726
,noi Point, 688
M Creek, 201
■n Hill, 96
n, Morro dc, 96
ho Great Bay, 589
Point, 12
[Bland, 791

Potriniaulovi-ki, 5J5, .J57,

560
I'l^tropauliivHki Uarljuiir,

567
V\\lt■h>^ Mand, 703
Philadrlphia Id., 859, 804,

800
Philip Island, 700
I'hilliinoio IViiit, 3(10
I'hilliliiiiii Inlaiids, 817
I'hippH, Ciipr, 476-7
I'liipp^ Point, 484
Pinhili«iio, 80
PichilinKUu Bay, 137
Fin-du-Langlu Slountaiii,

878, 657
Pico Chaiinol, 507
Piu Island, 488
Pi.idra Blanco, 90-99
Piudras BlancaH, 174
PUi-H Island, 290-7
Pih'ali Island, 762
Pincn Is'.and, 722
Pigeon Island, 879
I'il^uon Uivur, 210
Pi«ot Point, 485
Pi;,'ouolHO Island, 762
Pikcla Island. 702
I'ikolot Island, 702
I'ilas, Lag, 3
Pilier Itock, 587
Pililau Island, 775
Pilipal Islanil, 760
Pillaicitos, Arroya du los,

181
Pillar Hill Tree, 238
Pillar Point, 180, 254
Pdlar Hock, ISO
Pilloy Shoal, 370
Pilot Knob, 221
PiniKla, 45
I'inii, (J.ipo, 495
Pino Li'aiid. 245, 424
Pingo' i Islands, 742
Pinnu Jhanncl, 361
Pinnacu Uock, 330
Pinnaclo Island, 369, 532,

893, 904
Pinnacl.) Point, 303, 559
Piiin:iclrt Rook, 204, 253
Pino* Point, and Ligiit,

176
Pioneer Rocks, 681
Pipestom Inlot, 339
Piqiio Bay. 692
Pisayama Rock, 619
Pisoador Rivor, 180
Piso Island, 768
Pis'.'rarr Island, 760
Pitt Archiptdago, 430
Pitt Island, 467, 708, 717
Pitt River, 384
Pivay Bay, 21
Pizaraa Island, 760
Platanal Point, 30, 31
Playa Brava Sand, 2 1
Pbiyu do Chicarene, 62
Pliya Grande, 16
Playa Mcrmosa, 16

V\n\i\ Miiia B.IV, U»t
IMiiia Oir.nd.', 2«i
I'icinaiil Isliitid. 717
PliMsant Islands, 7i>3
I'lov.T B'ly, 51 i
Plovpr Piiiit. :i»4
i'lovcr U.. K 112
I'lmnpiT n.y, H^l. 113
Pliimpcr C'l'vc, 400
I'iumptT llarliour, 352-3
l'liinip<^r Island, 370
Plumper I'afs, 287, 325
PlmnpiT Roof and Sound,

■1HI\ 288-0
pl-.iriKnr Push, 407
Plymouth Island, 879
I'lVmouth or Kidd Island,

885
Plymouth Rnrks, 639. 643
Piiaougoun, Capo, 636
Podiopot('hn"i Peak, 513
Poott Nook, 329
P<ipobi, Cpo. 580
Ponrominni V<di'nno, 600
Pointers Rtwf, 433
PointorH Rock, 449
Poison Cove, 429
Poitik Point, 740
Polo, (!apo, 457
Polland Island, 803
Pollard Rook, 863
Pollv Riv.r, 464
Polnat 1. "lands. 761
I'olovinchatv Rock, 548
Ponafldin Island, (i3()
Ponalo Bay, 497, 501
Ponapi Island, 730
Ponapi Islands, 743
Ponente Point, 61
Porcada Island. 23
Poromnshir Island, 602
Poqioise Rock, 102, 481
Poitior, 308
Portior Pass, 287, 306, 384,

387
Portland, 242
Portland Canal, 432, 434,

146, 449
Portland Island, 296
Portland Point, 341
Portlock Harbour, 471
Portlock Point. 304
Portsmouth Breakers, 622
Posiotte Bay, 587
Possession Point, 317, 402
Possession Sound, 259, 205
Postcls, Cape, 541
Potainikofl', Capo, 612
Poulouhot Island, 761
Pouloupa Island, 743
Poulousouk Island, 761
Powhattan Bay, 640
Powhattan Reef, 891
Preedy Harbour, 299, 301
Presidio Shoal, 188
Provost Harbour, 291
Prevost Island, 291, 303,

306, 136
Prevost Passage, 206

Pr. vest p. il.-, oO.'i
\'Ubuilofl' Minds, 533
Piideaux I'diut, 371
Piincrssa Uland, 7'-9
I'llneess Louisa Inlet, 101
I'liiicesH Uiiyal Nlmds, 4JS
I'lineess Royal lii^iieh, 401
Prince Island, 027
Prineo Krnest Hound, 453--

465
Prince Fri;deri< k Sound,

459
Piinco \Vi!li;un Sound, 487,

480, (IP I
Prince of Wales Archipo-

lago, 452
Prince of Wales, (Japo, 529
I'rinco of Waks Reach,

404
Principe, Canal do, 432
Prisoners Harbour, 170
Pioelie Island, 494
Prokodell' Island, 572
Pioiifjo, Ciipc, 685
Prospect Island, 701
ProHsor Rock, 424
Protection Island, 260, 330,

388
Protection, Port, 468
Providence Cove, 310
Providenco Islands, 733
Providence, Port, 512
Puoldo dis los An;;olus, 100
Pueblo Niievo, 22
Puereos Point, 17
Pu«!ril, 21
Puoril Island, 20
Putirtesitos, 130
Puerto Falsa, 158
Puffin Islet, 277
Pii;;et, Capo, 480
Pu«ot Sound, 217, 241, 258,

262, 378
PiiUy Point, 201
Pulo-souk, 761
Pulpito do San Juan, 135
Puna, 828
Puna Cove, 853
Puna Mountains, 840
Punch Bowl, Tho, 850
Punta Goida, 174
Purissima River and Point,

172
Pustaresk, 669
Puzzle Island, 336
Pyhus Point, 460-1
Pvghella Island, 762
Pyko Point, 486
Pylados Channel, 310
Pylstaart Island, 871
Pym Island, 295
Pyramid Rock, 134, 577

Uuadra, Boca de, 150
Uuadra Hill, 307
Quadra Island, 271
Qualicuoi River and Bay^
393

■FS-5JfcSt«:f=:T™A»^-<**»'»'T^«e<«''?^^

9f)8

Quartermaster Harbour,

202
QuiithiaRky Covo, 411
(iiuitaino Narrows, 371
Uiiatsino Sound, 367, 372
Queen Cliarlotto Chunnel,

399 , , ,

Queen Charlotte'B Island,

215
Queen Charlotte Islands,

Quoon Charlotte bound,

417, 419
(iuoen's Oovo, 357-8
(i'.iocn's R.'ach, 104
Queen Uock, 1 38
Quelama Hiver, 07
Que-ni-\ill Hiver, 248
(iucpos IslandM, 34
(iui'pos Point, Las, 34

(iuibito, 19

(Jiiibo Island, 17

Quicksand Bay, 231

(iuisiffuiiia, ft8

Quitshak lliver, 5'U

Quoin Hill, 579

Quoin Point, 582

Quoy Island, 780

Kabf.t Island, 791
Kiiccoon Straits, 189
liace Island, 317
Kaco Islands, 251-2
Kmco Islands and Pa'^sago,

318
Itiico Narrows, 344
l{iice Pass, 415, 418
Rico Point, 308
Uadack Islands, 719
Kulak 8oa, The, 720
Kadokala Islands, 7i7
Hal'iel Point, 340
IJiift Covo, 373
Kai^Kod Island, 300, 310,

334, 337
Kagi^od Islands, 105

UagSed Point, 372

Kai Islands, 729

ll:iik(iko Island, 664

HainitT Mountain, 201, 2(57

Uakovya and Shoal, 559

llikovya Hay o. llurhour,
555, 557

Ifakovya Harbour & ll:ink,

llal.ngh Rock, 904
Ualik Chain, The, 726
U ilik Islands, 719
Kanisden Point, 434
Kauai Island, 814
K.mchoria, 19
Rankin Point, R98
Raour Island, 764
Risa Island, 458, 800
Rascals, Villau,o of. 128
Rashau Island, 504
Raspberry Island, 4ai

, 505

INDEX.

Ratak Islands, 718

Ratehcr Island. 711

Rat Islands, 505, 515-0

Ratmanoir, Cape, 575

liiitmanoil" Island, 530

Ratmanoir, Port, 540

lUttler Rock, 647

l{aukoko Island, 504

Raven Islands, 722, 752

Razor Point, 290

Read Island, 408

Read Islands, 100

Roahfjo, 3, 38, 49, 52

Reaumcr Peak, 777

Rebecca Si.it, 408

Rebuntsiribo' Islam

Recruit Island, 904

Rod Rlutt', 207

Red Clifi; ()86

Rod Clift" Island, 588

Red Cliffs, 646

Red Island, 305

Red island Point. 304

Red Cliff Point, 831

Red Stripe Mo\intain, 300

Rodding's Rock, 211

Redfern Island, 424

Rodfleld Rocks, 627

Rodonda, 335

Redondo, Capo, 142

Rodondo Rock, 15

Reed Island, 666

Reed Rocks, 859

Reef Island, 284-5, 329

Koef Islands, 897

Reef Point, 310, 368, 369

4(i7
Refuge Cove, 32, 346
Ri'funsiri Island, 578
Rchusa Channel, 141
Keitl Harbour, 291
Kei.l Rock, 279
l{(!indcer Island, 503
Ri'jnoff, Capo, 618
Renudios, 04
Kemedios Point, 09, 70
Romolina, Punta, 50
RonncU Sound, 4 1 1
Rosiri Island, 578
R(!8olution Covo, 353
Restoration Cove, 427
Restoration Point, 200
Resurrection Gulf, 488
Retreat Point, 403, 404
Retribution Rocks, CS2
Rovilla QiRodo, 450
Rovilla Gigedo Canal, 452
Revilla Gigedo Islands, 787
Reyes Islands, 734
Rey, Islas del, 6, 8, 249,

196
Kcyes, Punta de los, 191
Rica do Oro, 632
Rica do Plata, 875
Richard's Island, 664
Richard Rock, 339
Rich's Island, Sir R., 778
Kichmond Rooks, 10;j
Rcchusscn River, 780

Redonda Island, 406
Ritfne, Cape, 778
Kikard, Cape, 566
Rikimushiri Island, 664
Riinnik, Capo, 675
liimski-kiu-sakoff Islands,

718, "20-7
Kincon, Rio, 31-2
Kiou Point, 479
Ripple Point and Shoal,

414,417
Ritchie Bay, 344
Rilidian Point. 802
Kivadeneyra Snoal. 691
Rivas Point, 102, 126
lioau Kiddi Kiver, 748
Kobbeu Ishiud, 576
Robbers Island, 330, 333
Uobbirs Nob, 415
R.iboit Point, 344
Roberts Bank, 380
Roberts Point, 269, 270,

;!79, 397
Kotiinet Rock, 686
Roble, Punta, 21
Rol)son Island, 369
Roca Coral Island, 789
Roca Pardero, 789
Roca Partida, 788
Roche Harbour, 289, 293
Roikhpak River, 622
Rock Island, 033, 030
Rock Islet, 268
Rocky Bay, 279
Rocky Cape, 520
Rocky Island, 686, 777
Rocky I'ass. 346
Rocky Point, 387
Rodd Point, 321
Rodney, Point, 527
Roa Jlounlain, 839
Kongerik Islands, 727
Ifoger Simpson lBlan<l, 711
Rogue's River and Reef,

219
Roic Mountain, 745
Roiviii, Capo, 660-1
Kojnotl', Cape, 519
Hojo, Mar, 121
Ro'kuren Island, 602
Rollin, Capo, 565
Rolling Roadstead, 357
Roinaiizoff, Cape, 622, 057
Romanzoff, Islands, 723
Romanzov Hay, 679
Bono Kiti Harbour, 747
Roqueta Island, 92, 93, 9j
Rosa Island, 891
Rosario, 123
Rosario Bay, 86
Rosario, Bahin del, 21, 88
Rosario, Bio Del, 113
Kosario bland, 888
Bc.sario Point, 21
Rosario Strait, 207, 274,

278, 377
Rose'lale R'ck, 318
Kos... Harbour, 438
Rose Point, 439

win. Tsliind, 406
L-, Ciipc, 778
nl, Ciipi!, 566
nushiri Island, 664
lik, Capo, 575
ki-kiirsakoff IslanJs,
i, "20-7
1)11, Kio, 31-2
Point, 479

10 Point and Shoal,
4, 417

lio Way, 344
lian Point 802
ili'iioyva Snonl, 691
s Point, 102, 426
1 Kiddi Uivor,748
Ih'H Island, 576
bcrs Isliind, 330, 333
biTS Nol), 415

01 1 Point, 344
orts Hank, 380

orts Point, 26i), 276,

rO, 397

inct Kock, 680

lo, Pinita, 21

son Island, 309

a Coral laUnd, 789

a Pardoro, 789

a Partida, 788

lio Harbour, 289, 'J93

khpak Kivor, 622

:k Island, 033, 630

ik Islot, 268

;ky Bay, 279

;ky Cape, 520

^ky Island, 686, 777

^kv I'ass. 346

:ky Point, 387

Id Point, 321

iliioy, Point, 627

a Jlouiilain, 839

ngorik Islands, 727

gtir Simpson l8lan<l, 714

lino's Kiver and lioiif,

nil)

lie Mountain, 745

liviii. Capo, 660-1

linoli; Cape, 519

)jo. Mar, 121

)'kuron Island, 602

)Uin, Capo, 565

jlling Roadstead, 367

jinaiizoff, Cape, 622, 657

omanzoff, Islands, 723

omanzov Pay, 679

ono Kiti Harbour, 747

oquota Island, 92, 93, 95

osa Island, 891

osario, 123

.osario Bay, 86

losario, Bnbin del, 21, 88

losario, Hio Dul, 113

losario bland, 888

Icsario Point, 21

tosario (Strait, 267, 274

278, 377
l,)se4alo U'ck, 318
{osD Harbour, 438
lose Point, 439

Iloan Spit, 436

lio.shnoU', Capo, 518

Uoss liay, 323

Hoss, Fort, 2('l

lioss Islands, 730

Uoas Alonntain, 166, 194,

202
Koss, Poll, 920
Kota Island, 803
Kothsay Point, 464
]{ough Hay, 418
Koiind Island, 245, 309,

338, 371, 419, 621, 56")
lioumiantsotr. Capo, 622
UowG Kivor, 321
Hoyal Pay or Koaiis, 320
Koya'ist Islands, 768
Koyalist Islot, H83
Kua liilanil, 76S
Kii.ldcT Ueoi; 392
Kiidlin Hay, 326
KuSgfd Point, 369, 3G0
lluk Island, 758
Ivupcrt Arm, 367, 371
liupcrt, Fort, 419
Huriek Strait, 606, 724
Hussell, Capo, 373
KussoU Island, 207
Itiissian Kivor, 201-2
Kycho Poneio Gnitip, 682
Kyghynin, Capo, 640

Saanioh, 295
Saunich Iiuot, 297
S.iba Sinia, 606
Sabine Chaunol, 391, 401
Sabino Group, 8!*3
Sablo Island, 713
Sabo Kivor, 799
Saboga Island, 7
Sacato Islands, 34
Sacate Giundc, 66, 67
Saeate Poin*, 42
Sacatiila Kiver, 97
Sacliine Strait, 467
Sacritieios Island, 91
Saddle Hill, 247
Saddle Mountain, 647
Sado Island, 667-8
Safoty Cove, or I'ort, 428
Sagami, Capo, 632, 038,

643
Sagami Hills, 638
Sagami Peninsula, 633
Saghalin, Island of, 673
Si.gbaliQ Peninsula, 568
Saga sima, 672
Sailing Diiiections, sec

Passages
Sailor Point, 322
Sail Rock, 180, 33', 338,

669, 881
Saino Island, 26
Sainson Island, 779
St. Abraham Island, 531

— Albans Point, 467

— Andrew Ii-laiuls, 781

— Antony's IVak, 667

INDKX.

St. Augustine Aloiintain,

490
— Ili.ncdiclo Island, 787

— t^roix. Gull of, 6H, 644

— David Islands, 781

— Klena, Ciipe, 41-2

— Elias, Mount, 445. 479,
480

— Klmo Bay, 8

— Francis, I'ort, 920

— George Island, 106

— George's Island, 633

— George Point, 213, 219

— Helens Mountain, 237,
242

— Ililario Island, 160

— .Tames, Cape, 4o7

— .lolin Point, 396, 3'JS

— Jonas Island, 6' 2

— Iiawrenco Hay, o3G

— Lawrence iM.ind, 630
-- L".;;ari'.:', islands, M3

— Lazaro Peak, 821

— liucas. Cape, 121, 916

— Maician Islanil, 615

— Mary, Capo,, 276

— Mary Point, 460

— Matthew Island, 631

— Michael's Island, 624

— Paul, Harbour oC, 494

— Paul's Island, 633

— Pedro Nolasco Island,
129

— Peter's R(jck, 630

— Soba.stian, 124

— Sornnto, 130

— Stophenlsland, 602, 610,
531

— ThaJdeus, Cape, 546

— Theodore Island, 631

~ Vladimir Bay, 589, 691,
923

— Vincent Channel, 609

— Xavicr Islfiiid, '.(92
Saipan Island, 807
Sai Sima, 609

Seifo Reef, 618
Sajouliucktuaigh Island,

502
Sakai River, 612
Sakate Bay, 609
Sakiira Island, 699
Salina Cruz Bay, 84
Salina del Marques, 84
Salisbury, Point, 463
Salinas, 86

Salinas Bay and Island, 42
Salir. .^ River, 178
Salinas Morro do las, 86
Salinas Plains, 179
Salinas Bay, 29
Salmon Bank, 277
Sainu.n Bay, 416, 577
Salmon (.'rook, 202
Salmon Cove, 434
Salmon River, 211
Salmon Trout Bay, 577
Saloupa liiver, 799
Sal Point, 172

9!)1)

Sill si riiede.s, 33

Sal si Piiedes, Ci'rro do,

30
SalUdiidak Island, 496
Salt Pit Bay, 98
Salt Pits, 97
Salt Point, 203
Sainala River, 77
Samarang Island, 893
Samaraiig Islands, 702
Sainijanooda Bay, 60S
Samgar, Strait of, 616
Samuel Island, 290
Samuel, Point, 464
Sana, 660
Sandan River, 573
Sanbon-tako, 027
Saneolito Point, 189
Sand Island, 23S, 868
Sandon Rocks, 893
Smdslone Rocks, 30i
Sandwich Islands, The,

818
Sandy Island, 391, "IS, ilOl
Sandy Point, 276, 291, 6,sS
Sangster Islanil, 3i)S, 401
Sitnnagh Island, 603
Saiinak Island, 503
Sanson Island, 442
Sansjral Islands, 784
Sansum Narrows, 298
Sant Angol, Fort, 799
Santiago, 72
Santiago Bay, 98
Santiago River, 22
San Augustiuo Island,

763

Alcssandro Island, 887

Andres, 40

Andres Point, 47

Antonio River, 178

Auguslino Island,

887

Balardo, Rio de, 172

Bartoloin, Cape, 468

Barlolome Bay, 146

Bartolome Island, 761

Bartolomeo Islands,

791, 793

Benito Islands, 147,

148

Borto Island, 787

Bias, 79, 81, 100, 914

Bruno Cove, 135

Bruno Mountains, 182

C!arlos, 69, 96

Carlos Island, 468

Clemonte Island, 105.

166

Diego, 149, 915

Diego Bay, 165-6

Diego Castle, 94

Diego, New, 167

— — Diego, Port and Bay,
160

Dionisio Island, 887

Kngonio Punt, 147

I'Istevan, 130

K-sti'van Island, 430

Wg^n»miW>wwjM a M'« " t *i'^ ^it i iH W i

1000

San Folipo, 11

— Folipo dc Joans, 133

Franciico, 182, 190,

915
, Francisco Bay, 149,

152

Francisco Island, 137

Gabriel Bny, 137

, Gernldo, 172

Goroniino Inland, 149

. . Grogorio Kiver, 180

. Ignncio, 140

Igna<:io Point, Island,

& Bay, 12r>

. Inez, Sierra, 163

. Jacinto Mountain, 472

Jose, 3, 72

Jose Bank & Id., 6,8,9

. .lose, Cupp, 32

Joso del Cal)o, 136

Jose del Cabo Bay,

139 , „.

. Jose do Guatemala, (o

Jose Fort, 799

Jose Island, 329

Jose Islands, 26, 333

. Josn Point, 187

. J use. Port, 73

JosoUock, 13

.Tosef Bav, 36S, 373

Josef Island, 137

Juan Capistrano, 168

. Juan del Sur, 43-4

Juan Island, 273, 291,

293
. Juan Nepomuceno,

137

. Juan, Hio, 18

Juan River, 45

Juan Kock, 17

Juan, Port, 314, 310

Juanito, 103

— Lazaro, 142

. Lazaro, Cape, 147

Lazaro Peak, 139

Lorenzo, 66, 95

Lorenzo Point, 137

. Lorenzo, Port, 215,

349
— — Lorenzo, Rio, 123
Lorenzo, Puerto de,

Lucas Island, 3(

Lucas Bay and Cape,

140

Lucas, Cape, 859, 916

Lucas Islands, 170

Luis D' Apra, Port, 800,

801

Luis Obispo, 172, 176

Luis Point, 173

. Luis Rey, 158

. Marcial, 126

Marcos Island, 134

Martin, Cape, 175

Mateo Bay, 331

Miguel, 8, 61, 63

. Miguel Bay, 6

iliguel Chimalapa, 84

INDEX.

Ran Miguol Gulf, 9, 911

Miguel Island, 171

Miguel River, 65

Miguel Point, 150

Miguel Volcano, 53

Miguol, Volcan de, 66

Nicolas Island, 165,

168

Podro Bay and Hill,

159

Podro, Cape, and Port,

33
Pedro Island, 28, 103,

791
. Pedro Martyr Falls,

Podro Nolasco, 172

Podro Point, 182

Pedro River, U2

Quentin, Port, and

Cape, 149

Ramon Bay, 150

Roque Island, 146

Roquo, Rio do, 233

Salvador, 2, 03, 166

Salvador, City of. and

Volcano, 67
Salvador, Coast of, 64,

Sobastian River, 202

Sebastian Vizcaino

Bav, 147

. Simeon Bay, 1 1 4

Vicente, 63

Santa Ana, 1 1

Anna River, 160

. Barbara Town and

Light, 162
Barbara and Channel,

164, 159, 161
Barbara Channel ana

Islands, 164, 168

Catalina, 158

Catalina Island, 1C5,

166

Sla. Clara, 892

Santa Clara and River, 101

Clara, Rio de, 130

Cruz, 90

Cruz and Fort, 800-1

Cruz Island, 169

. Cruz Island & Point,

Cruz de Mayo, 126

Cruz Point and Har-
bour, 177, 179

Inez, 172

Inez Island, 130

Lucia Bay, 94

Lucia, Sierra de, 176

Margarita, Cape, 215

Margarita Island, 140,

141-2

Maria Bay, 144

Maria Point, 148

Marina Point, 141

Rosa Bank, 817

l{osa Island, 170, 788

Kosa Shoal, 798

Santa Sabina Bay, 130

Teresa, Barra do, 83

Teresa Point, 135

Santo Domingo Point, 145
Sinto Tomas Island, 787
Sapron Island, 866
Sarah Anna Island, 699
Sarah Point, 415
Saranac Island, 344
Sarannaia Cove, 513
Saratoga Spit, 633, 64 n, 6J2
Sarcophagus Island^, 542

Sardines, Bay of, 174

Sariguan Island, 811

Sarpan Island, 803

Sarytschoff, Cape, 506-6

Sarytschcfl" Peak, 564

Sasagofa Hay, 646

Satanna, Cape, 516

Satano Misaki, 598

Satawal Island, 762

Satchet Head, 259

Satellite Channel. 295. 207

Satellite Pass, 329, 331

Satellite Reef, 389

Saturna Island, 280, 2SS,

290, 377, 387
Savary Island, 405, 409
Sawyer Bank, 62
Sayanagi, 609
Saypun Island, 794, 805, 807
Scarborough Hill, 241-2
Scarborough Island, "10 _
Scarborough Islands, 707,

877
SchiechkofiF, Cape, 656
Schischmareff Strait, 724
Schischmareff Inlet, 529
Schooner Pass, 424
Schouten Island, 780
Schouten Islands, 778
Schumagin Islands, 499, 602
Scotch Fir Point, 402
Scott, Cape, 326, 372, 373
Scott Cape, Channel, and

Islands, 424
Scott Island, 301
Scroggs Rocks, 319, 320
Scylla, Rocks of, 791
Seabock Island, 266
Sea Egg Rocks, 401
Sea Lion Island, 634
Sea Lions Island, 621
Sea Lion Rock, 618
Seal Rock, 147, 264
S<.al Rocks, 185, 398
Sea Mew Islands, 511
Sea Otter Cove, 373
Sea Otter Island, 534
Sea Otter Rock, 342
Sea Otter Sound, 458
Seattle, 260

Sobastian liOpoz Isliind, S.J
Secas Islands, 25
Secretar>- Island, 308, 31 (
Seduction Point, 465
I Soechclt Arm, 401, 404
j Segouam Islands, 511
di-i Sima, 609

i»#«*«««w*Ml|^l

INDEX.

1001

1 Bay, 130
Barra do, 83
Point, 135
ipo Point, 11')
> Island, 787
id, 866
Island, 699
416

nd, 344
ove, 613
it, 633, 640, 612
I Island, 642
ly of, 174
land, 811
nd, 803
Cape, 506-6
Peak, 564
ly, 646
ipo, 516
vki, 698
ind, 762
vd, 25!)

lannel. 296, 297
,8R, 329, 331
■cf, 389

iland, 280, 2SS.
387

ind, 406, 409
nk, 62
609

vnd, 794, 805, 80"
;h Hill, 241-2
;h Island, "10 _
jh Islands, 707,

F, Cape, 666
reflf Strait, 724
roff Inlet, 629
Pass, 424
Island, 780
Islands, 778
n Islands, 499, 502

r Point, 402
.e, 326, 372, 373
pe, Channel, aiul
, 424
nd, 301

Locks, 319, 320
ocks of, 791
island, 265
Rocks, 401
Island, 634
5 Island, 521

Rock, 618
t, 147, 264
ks, 186, 398

Islands, 611
r Cove, 373
r Island, 634
r Rock, 342
r Sound, 458
260

1 IiOpc7. Island, 8 1 o
ands, 26

V-Island, 308, 317
n Point, 405

Arm, 401, 404
1 Islands, 511
1,609

tJiliapo Island, 7''>''
ScmenolT, Cupi^, 662
tjemiai.iuoo Bay, 269, 378,

380
Sc.'iniso|)ochnoi Islimd, 616
Seniitsch I.--laud, 604, 616
Scuiiuiiie, Cape, 519, 576
Seniavino Islands, 743
Seniaviiio Strait, 639
Scnora, I'luvinco of, 123
■Senora and Sonorita lelaiulN,

9
Sentiiiela Island, 20
Sentinel Island, 292
■.Separation Point, 283, 298
Scqualchin llivor, 223
Scqueira Islands, 734
Soraki, Cape, 061
SiTKheieff Isthmus, 613
Serdze Kiimen, Cape, 499
Sorilze Kameu Mountain,

516
Seriouse Shoal, 94
Seriphos Rock, 891
Serpent Islands, 728
Si'sga Point, 41
Soshart Channel, 337
Sftei Island, 898
Soto Uchi, 596, 001, 014
Sotuahal Island, 702
Seven Islands, 762
Seven Mountains, Island of,

615
Sovemaia Guba, 674
Severny Islands, 633
Sevilla, Isla, 28
Seward Roads, 870
Seymour Bay, 900
Seymour Canal, 462
Seymour Narrows, 411-12
Shadwell Passage, 420-22
Shag Rock, 9, 188, 338
Shah Bay, 899
Shakoff Point, 560
Shalers Island, 859
Shaagoi Islands, 43", 443
Shantar Islands, 667, 672
Shantarski Islands, 672
Shanz Islands, 728
Shark Pass, 334
Shai-k }loef, 282
Slia't Uoefs, 342. 347
Siiiip Point, 341, 346, 389,

"haiva. ;53

■•'^ . V iAJii.id, 280, 279, 282,

■Jl-ii ■ "o
Sholl )o«,nd, 420
8h ;l: T Ann, 346
Shell,.,. I' ,,691
Shelter >;..-vo, 206
Shelte Island, 365
Shelf, ,r Islands, 340
Shu) .er Point, 397
Sh Ivocks Island (?), 869
S*. 'pherd Mountain, 397,
^ 401

Shurringham Point, 316
'Shiashkotan Island, 564

North raclfic.

Shilkft Kivor, 684

Shilo River, 688

Shika-no-se, 610

Shirno Iilzumi, 667

Shimoiiosaki, {103

Shingle Point, 360, 421

Shin^lo Spit, 396

Ship Channel, 340

Ship Island, 329, 333, 334,

337
Ship Paas:ige, 332
Shin Point, 394
Ship Rook, 131, 306, 610
Shipunakoi, Capo, 554, 566
Shirinky Island, 802
Shishaldin Mountain, 506
Shoal Bav, 282
Slioal Channel, 400
Slioal Islands, 299

Shoal Point, 676

Shoalwater Bay, 235

Slioalwaler Bay and Cape,
242

Shode Sima, 609

Shovel Island, 859

Sl\iishartio Bay, 421

Sliute Passage, 296

Sliuto Reef, 297

Siau Wuhu Bay, 689

Siclata Point, 93

Sidney Channel and Island,
287, 294

Sidney Island, 288, 289, 296

Sierpc, Boca, 34

Sierra Madre Mountains, 43

Sigak, Cape, 609

Siga Sima, 666

S. Ignacio de Agana, City
of, 801

Signal Head, 673

Sihuantanejo, Port, 97

Sikhs River, 223

Sikine, 626

Sikok. 600, 016

Sikok Island, 696

Sikolan Inland, 666

Sikok Strait, 697

Silla Island, 25

Simabara Gulf, 680

Sima, Capo, 621

Simago Islands, 893

Siuiidin Island, 602

Simidzu Harbour, 623

Sinioda, 694, 632, 636

Simoda Harbour, 634

Simonanba Point, 606

Simonoseki Channel, 597

Simonoseki Strait, 601, 002,
605, 665

Simpson Fort, 449

Simpson Islands, 707

Simpson, Port, 433

Simpson River and Fort,
433-4

Simusir Island, 565

Sinagawa, 642

Sinanomis River, 266
Sinaloa, Province of, 123

Sinaloa, Rio di', 125

Sinolair Island, 268
Sineko, Cape, 660
Siiitalapa River, 1, 70
Sio .Siiki, 616
Si(pian;an(;jo, 97
Sirahama, 634
.Sirakami, Cape, 661, 665
Sirasai Saki, 016,617
Siretoko, Cape, 677, 664
.Sir Francis Drake's Bay,

196
Siiiva Saki, 047
Sin) Sima, 602, 675, 687
Sisiki Saki, 669
Sisters, The, 669
Sisters, Islands, The, 276,

339, 398
Sisters Rocks, 99, 296
Sisiiro Point, 687
Sitka, 4i0, 448
Sitka Archipelago, 460

Sitka Islands, 449

Sitiia Sound, 472

iSilkhin Island, 614

.Sitkhin, West, 610

Sitziwura Bay, 680

Sivoutchi Island, 634

SIvoutchy Rock, 518

Siwokubi, Cape, 047, 051

Siwo Misaki, 619

Siwu Sima, 893

Sixty-foxir fathoms Bank,
875

Six Islands, The, 716

Sizikuts, Cape, 603

Sizi Sima, 609

Skeneai Bank, 610

Skidegate Channel, 441

Skidegate Channel and Har-
bour, 437-8

Skina River, 433

Skipjack Island, 280

Skiton Harbour, 442

Slate Island, 450

Slavianska River, 156, 19 1,
202

Slavianski Bay, 588

Sledge Island, 527

Slimpson Reef, 415

Slip Point, 264

Small Island, 366

Smith Inlet, 426

Smith Island, 274, 326, 03 i,
716, 720, 72.5, 791

Smith's Island, 131

Smith's River, 213

Smoky Bay, 497

Smotz ura Bay, 010

Snag Point, 24 1

Snares, The, 664

Snettisham, Port, 402

Snug Basin, 331

Snug Corner Bay, 481

Snug Cove, 399

Snug Creek, 298

Soconusco District, 72
Soconusco Province, 77
t-ocorra Island, 787
Socorro, Puerto dul, 269

wr- ^ ft/>«,-«]l\ iJtTWW*

-**»;>«*»»*.iMiL'.«t*

1002

Soimonoff, C^ipP, 576
Solmiiler Island, 306
Molcntinnmo, 48
Sol(>ny If-liind, 513
Honibrerito Hill. 134
Sombrero Point, 31
Sombrio Rivor, 317 _
Somohliiri Island, 654
Somite Island, 48
S.mora, 114
fSansoniito, 3
Sdsonate Uouds, 68
Sooke Inlet, 317 _
S(ioM(>;ho Inland, 761
Sophia I'oint, 409
Soriwi Saki, 651
Sorol Isliinds, 766
Sosanjaya, 803
Hnsaniago, 803
Sossan Hagno, 803 j

So88an Ilaya, 803 |

Sotoan Island, 755 I

Sotoan Isliinds, 757 _ |

Sotonohirasn Kock, 073, ,
679 j

Soliina River, 520
Soumnye, 801
Saunders Islai d, 874
Southampton Kock, 634
South 13ay, 246
Southty I'oinf, 301, 308
Sonthgate Rivor, 410
South IslaTid, 028, 879
South or IVri V Inland, 880
South Rock, 902
South Rowan Island, 890
Soulhworth Totnt, 201
Souvoroff and Cape, 520
Souwoi'off iNlands, 725
Soya, Cape, 579
Soya Inland, 057
Sozu Sima, 609-10
Spanberg, Capo, 643, 502,

654
Spanborg Island, 666
Spanberg Mountain, 576
Spimish Bank, 38;)
Spanish Islands, 817
Speaker Rock, 415
Sp«(k Reef, 55
Spi noer. Cape, 469-70
Spencer Keys, 769
Spencer Ledge, 325
Spcneer Point, 628
Spex Strait, 669, 686
Sphinx Island, 306
Spieden Chan., Directions,

292
Spieden Island, 279
Spieden Island and Channel,

292
Spirkin Islands, 608
Spring Passage, 279
Sproat Bay, 330
Sipiare Rock Point, 604
Sipiawmisht River, 398
Siiuirrel Cove, 406
Srednoy Island, 565
Staihinski Inlet, 466

INDEX.

stag iiiiy, 40.'-|
Stamp liiirbour, 331-2
StiiTdiope Point, 455
Stiiniforth Point, 430
Staniski Point, 658
Btanovoi Mountains, 537
Stapleton Island, 1580, 884
Starbuck Island, 706
Staritohkoff Reef, 513
Starlight Reefs, 340
Station Peak, 149
Steamer Bay, 455
Steamer Cove, 346
Steamer Pass, 331
Steai-ns Bluff, 247
Steep Cape, 495
Sleep Island, 412
Steep Point, 284
Stcop-to Island, 724
StiMlacoom, 262
Stephen Islands, 780
SU'idiens, Cape, 524
Stephens Islands. 431
Stevens Passage, 401, 459,

400, 401, 462
Sti-ile Island, 494
art Bay, 341
art. Port, 451, 689
mo River, 461
SiiKino River and Fort, 454
Stobual Island, 722
Stockdalo Harbour, 487
Stockade Point and Bay,

286
Stolbovoi, Cape, 563 ^
Stobovskaia River, 653
Stol6lie, Cape, 642
Stone Mole Rocks, 527
Stopper Islands, 339, 340
Storm Island, 334, 338, 424
Strawberry Bay, 268
Striped Peak, 264
Strogonoff Bay, 666
Strogonoff, Cape, 619
Strong Island, 739
Sinmg Tide Island, 325
Stuart Channel, 299, 307
Stuart Island, 280, 288, 291,

409, t24
Stuart Island and Channel,

287
Stubbs Island, 342
Stwrgeon Bank, 378, 385
Styleman Point, 462
Suart Island, 279
Suchiltepeques Province, 77
SuciR Island, 277, 280
Suckling, Cape, 481
Suco Island, 898
Suemez Island, 468
SuflTrein Bay and Cape, 681
Sugarloaf Cfape, 632
Sugarloaf Island, 207, 898
Sui-tun River, 688
Sukhtelen Bay, 666
Suk Island, 761
Sulivan Reefs, 363
Sullivan Point, 459
Sulphur Bay, 789

Sulphur Beds, 103
Suli.hur Island, 887, 894
Sulphur Peak, 156
Sulpliur Rooks, 13
Sului Sima, 613
Sumass River, 332
Suniegi Lake, 034
Sunishu Island, 502
Sunday Rock, 348
Sung-ami, 617
Sungari River, 686
Sunharon, 807
Supply Rock, 634
Suguamish Harbour, 265
Surf Islands, 368
Surge Islands, 305
Sur Point, 175
Suruga, Gulf of, 622, 630
Susaki, 601, 632, 634, 039,

643, 646
Susa Maria, 146
Susan, Port, 205
Susquehanna Bay, 640
Sutil Channel, 406, 408-9
Sutil Mountain, 307
Suwo Kubi, Capo, 649
Suwo Nada, 606
Suzume Rock, 076
Svono Yama Mountains, 044
Svetchnikoff Harbour, 512
Swaya Point, 002
Swaine, Cape, 428
Swain Reef, 667
Swale Bock, 337
Swans, Bay of, 672
Swanson Channel, 287, 296,

301, 304, 305
Swars, Cape, 664
Swede Islands, 762
Swiss Boy Island, 334-5
Sybilla Island, 791
Sybille Bay, 691
Sydenham Island, 713
Sydney Inlet, 345-6
Sydney Islands, 404
Sykes, Point, 460
Symplcgades Islands, 682

Taba Sima, 606

Table Bluff, 208

Table Hill, 897

Table Island, 362

Table Mountain, 195, 6b6

Table Point, 690

Tables Mountains, 160

Taboga, U

Taboga and Island, 14

Taboga Rocks, 13

Tabognilla, 14
Tabor Island, 16
Tabu Sima, 667
Taco and Aim, 462
Tagai Islands, 726
Tugaik Island, 751
Tagh Kiniagh Island, i>02
Tagleokou Moimtain, 539
Tago Bay, 623-4 ^
Tagoilap Island, <Uj
Tagna Point, 802

. 8H7, «0l
l-)6

la
yu

, 502
348

586

334
rbour, 205

;68
3C5

)f, 022, 630
32, 034, 03U,

:C5

Bay, 040

, 406, 408-SI

n, 307

Jiipo, 649

, 075

ilountains, 044

Harbour, 512

602

,428

167

337

.f, 672

nnol, 287, 290,

054

.8,762

land, 334-5

d, 791

691

!land,713

t, 346-0

ids, 404

,460

I Islands, 082

306

208

397

1,362

tain, 195, 080

,690

atains, 160

Island, 14
ka, 13

14
d, 15

657

im, 462
ds, 725
nd, 751
gh. Island, 502
Moiintain, 539
B23-4
land, 7li5
it, 802

Tahiiharoo Buy, 610
'i ahaurawo, S i t
Tiihoora lalatnl, SoQ
Tiih-8i8 Caiiiil, 3;) I
Tah-Hidh Arm, 361
Ta Isliinii, 751
Tai^onotskoi, Cajio, 5()9
Taipiiigon roint, S03
Taitohnoi, (.'apo, 513
Tai-pin-win Islands, 899

Tajamulco Volcano, 71

Takaboko, 076

Taka Islamls. 718, 725

Takaikarna Island, (iOS

'I'akain liock, 745, 746

Takainatsii, 009

Tiikaini, 608

Titkaiiaba Island, 600

Taka Mima, O'.O, 071, (iH2

Taka Sima Islands, (i(S2

Takayania, Capo, (Kil

Takay Island, 742

Take 8ima, 891

Taking Island, 899

Take Uivcr, 403

Takura Saki, 014, 610

Tala I'oint, 204

Talawa, Lake, 214

Talon Island, 20

Taniagawa, 603

Tamana Island, 71 1

Taman Island, 740

Tama no Ura, 672

Tamarinda, 47

I'amary Aniwa, 577

Tiim;isnla Hill, 124

Tamatani Island, 700

Tamatliin, 104

Tameitsi Hay, 680

Tammatnpappa Island, 850

Tanalio, 617

Tanabo, Hay and Cape, 618

Tanaga Island, 51 1

Tanapay; Harbour, 809

Tanega JSini.i, 891

Tangbinakh Island. 509
Tangolatang<da Inland, 88
Tannadai-h Island, 510
Tano Bank, 001
Tano-iira, 6(14
Tan Saki, 673
Taongi Islands, 725
Tapak Rock, 740
Tapiteuwea Island, 708
Tapntoouoa Island, 711
Tarafofo, 801
Tarafofo Harbour, Port, and

Itivor, 802
Tiirakai, 573
'r.iiaia Isbiml, 900
'i'arawa I-ilami, 708, 715
Tarooli's Bay, 30
Taioinski Harliour, 557,

500
T:irtary, Gulf of, jso
'I'asko B.iy, 670
Tisman l!ay, Ooi)
'IjiSM) JIjiiIm.ui-, I (_'
Tuaiionii Biv, <)(i7

INDEX.

Tati.hik Buy, 526
Tat-cbn Point, .JoS, MO.'i
Tatiyatua Bay, 0.'!3, 0;J!)
Tatnall Hccfs, 423
Tatoufb Island, 252
Taloosh Island, 252
Tatsupi Saki, 646, 051
Tavala Uivcr, (Jroal, 123
Tavano, Port, 500
Tavasora, \iici, 22
Ta-wu-bu Bay, 590
Toliagvan Bay, 522
Tcbaitolii Islands, 511
Tohaplin, Cape, ;5il
Tohastio Islands, 514
TchntchokouioiiMi, 511
Tchiarloun Si rait, 510
Tching-an, Cai)o, 513
Tobinkitanay Bay, 472
Tcbirikdtf, (japi(,'54l
Tchoukolskoi, Capo, 541,514
Tchuktc'his, 'I'lio, 535
Tuaonpan, Bui a do, 112
Tidiakh, Capo, 585
T. bonkolf Covo, 524
Tobut Island, 729
To-choh-(iiiut, 223
Tocusitan, 104
Tc'liimntcpoc, Town cif, 81
Tobtiaiito|)(!c, tiulf of, 79,

82, 912
Tojnpan Blnft", 98
Tojupan, Point and Paps of,

Tobigrajih Harbour, 299,
301, 309

Tolograph Hill, 187

Tolica Volcano, 50, 55

Tonio Island, 724

Toniplar Channel, 312,315

Tomplar Hocks, 323

Tomposan, Fort, 612

Tonacatita Bay, 102

Tonodos Island, 746

Tennessee (wreck). 193

Tonola, Barra de, 83

Tent Island, 300, 301, 308

Topoo, 106, 109

Teipiepa Point, 90

Terapa Island, 15

Tesicn, Capo, 506

Tessan ISboal, 112

Teurire Island, 657

Texhada Island, 391, 397,

398,401, 409
Ti'xup-"! Point, 913
Tl ames Sboal, 324
Thatcher Passage, 282, 283
Thetis Cottage, 320
Thetis C.ive, 442
Thetis Island, 299, 200, 307,

309
Thirteen Islands, 764
Thomas Point, 419
Thompson Point, 2S5
Thompson Biv.r, 375
Thoiiiianhy Islmds, 4(11-2
Thunilioroiigb Channd, 4(1 1
Thorn liuck, 412

ioo;i

Three Hill Island, 030

Three II nmmuek Island, 030

Three Islands, 878

Three Sisters Islands, 781

Thumb Peak, 10

Thurlow Islanii, 413, ill,
417

Tiara Mountain, 575

Ti-a-iisu Island, 903

Tibbett Island, 029

Tiliuron Islam!, 130

Tiehenor's Hock, 220

Tide Island, 407

Tli.ES. 924-933; Tides in
general, 924 ; H<.v Dr.
Whewell on the Tulos of
the Pacilic, 925 ; Tides on
West Coast of Norih
America, 927-8; Islands,
929 ; Central Pacilic, 930.

TiDK Taiii.b —

Central Aniorir-a, Mi'.\ic(),
ice, 931 : British (Co-
lumbia, &.C., 932 : Alas-
ka, &c., 932: Tarlary,
Japan, and the Island's,
933

Ti(/e.i, Active Pass, 305

British Colmubia, 378

Broughton Strait, 117

Culm and Bute Chan-
nels, 411

Georgia, Strait of, 391

Golotas Channi 1, 420

Ilaro Strait, 289

Honolulu, 852

Jervis Inlet, 404

Johnstone Strait, 414

Nagasaki, 679

Nanaimo Harbour, 390

— — Nootka Sounil, 351

Central Pacilic, 930

North Pacilic, 923

Panama, 13

Punta Arenas, 38

Queen Charlotte'.)

Islands, 413

Hosario Strait, 276

Sandwich IsLinds, 823

San t'laneisK^, lyu

Seymour Narrows, 4 1

• Trincomalie Channel,

309

Vancouver I.-land,

326

Tide Table, 931
Tierra, Pieilra da, l()(i
Tierra, Silva do, 23
Tigalda Island, 500
TigaUa Island, 50li
Ti-iT Island. 777
Tigil K.ver, 5o»
Tigijhk, 509
Tigro, I.-land of, 58
Ti^re, Uio del, 32
TiSrito Point, 31
Jilapa, 70
Tilema, 83
Tilcma Lake, S3

1004

Tillnmook Day and Head,

230,231
Tillumook, FalaP, iJi
Timber Covo, 203
Tindal and Wntts iBlanl,

724
Tinginak Island, 5(1()
TiniHn Island, 794, b05
Tinto, Arroya, 24
Tipitapa lliver, 48
TiBingal Gold JliniB, 3

Titigu«Pf»i 1^'"' ''^
Tjan Island, 722
Tlevak Strait, 45«
'flnpana Arm, 3oO, .56.}
Toha Inlot, 400
Tobi Inland, 784
Tobi Sima, 614, 674
Todd Rock, 324, 330
TodoB los Santos, 141, lou
TodoR Santos, 173
Toeaii;h and Bay, M4
ToG-yah-yah Hay, oAi

Tofino Inlet, 345

Tobadgi Point, 634

Tokara Sima, 893 ,

Toke Point, 242

Tokoeoa, 721

Tok Sima, 894

Toledo, 223

TollBland, 758 ^

Tolocolme Mountain, tii

Tolstoi, Cape, 613

Tomales Point and Bay,

196, 199
Toma8Bay,42

Tonianr;-ai Island, 613

Tomo, 60S

Tomoika Harbour, 681

Tom Point, 297

Tomo Sima, 610

TongasB, 449

Tongue Point, 142, 308

Tongue Point and Chaniu 1,

240
Tonin, Cape, 577
Tonkoy, Capo, 49.5
Tonock Bay, 458
Top-knot Point, 3 ( i _
Toporkoff Island, 548 000

Toporkowa Isl >nd, 4-H
Toquart Harbour, .*.ih-J
Tordillo, Ccno, 128
Tordla, Hio, 65
Toriwi saki, 646
Torres Island, 758
Torres Recks, 812

Tortolas, Rio do los, 20 J
Tortuga Hank, 808
Tortuga Island, 130, 134
Tortugas Rock, 116
Torua Island, 722
ToRCO, Cape, 141
Tosimalsland, 600 620

Totomosiri Island, < J
Totten's Inlet, 262
Touching Island, 7J7
Twigoueni) Point, ( .U
Toukiira Island, 803

INDEX.

Toulikskoi& Volcano, 609
Towaihai Bay, 834
Tower Bay, 95
Townsend Point, 400
Toxvnshond Port, 2.,7
Toyama and Bav. 0(.O
Toyimisaki and Point, 600
TuAnE-WiNi.s, see Winds.
Trading Bay, 492
Trail Bay and Islands,

401
Traitor's Cove, 4.)7
Traitor's Bay, 567
Traitor's Islaiuls, 7Hii

■22

Traversoy Islan<ls, .
Tranquil Crerk, 315
Transtignratioii hay, aid
Trap Bluff, 362
Trapicho Peninsula, »
Treaty Point, 641
Tree Island, 301,878

Tree Point, 612
Tree R"ck, 676
Tree Saddle, 632
Tree f addle Hill, 643
Trcmeton, Mount, 401
Tres Colunuias Island, H/o
Tros Ojitos, Los, 130
i Trevan Rock, 437
I Trial Island, 320
Trial Islands, 323
Triangle Island, 42o
Trilmne Bay, 393, 306
Trincomalio Channel, iol,

291, 306, 307
Trinidad, 127
Trinidad Head and Bay,

209
Trinidad River, 9
Trinity Cap.' and Islands,

496
Trinity River, 21 1
Trio Rocks, 892
Triumfo Silver ^Mnms, 121
Triunfo do los Libres, 04
TroUope Point, 450
Trollopn Rock, 6
Tromelin Island, 7(>i)
Trucha, 21
Tnuba Island, 20
Truk Islands, 757 .

Tsehatchauobury Monntnin,

Tschogonla Island, 510
Tschcgoula Islands, ol«
Tschiganok ^lounta.n olO
Tschikotan Island_, 502, oto
Tsehoka River, 673
Tscbipunski, Cape, 554
Tschiiikoff Bay, 602
Tschitschagoff Bay, ol7
Tscbitehagoff, Cape, o20_
Tschitscbagoif Islands, fli
Tschoiigatscliouk Bay, 490

Tshirinketan Island, nbl
Tsisia Rock, 5J9
Tsis Inland, 758
Tsiuka, Cape, 451,647
Tskahara Bay, 611)

Bay,

Tsugar, Capo, 646

Tsuirar, Strait of, 645, Oo-,

655
Tauji-Sima, 681
Tsukarase Rorks, OHi
Tsuruga and Bay, 603
Tsu Sima, 665
Tsiitara Sima, 672
Tsnya Sima, 620
Tiia'm, Mount, 204
Tucker Bay, 401-2
Tucker Island, 702
Tuft Island, 60!
Tugidak l9land,_496
Tugursk Bay, 573
Tugursk Bay and Kivcr,

Tujugiak River, nil
TuU" Island, 681
Tuman River, 586
Tiimbo Island, 288
Tumitas River, 180
Tumun Point and

Turnagain Arm, 4»o
Turnagain Island and Ann,

492
Tnmbull Reef, 296

Turner Point and t ai" ,

477
Turn Island, 278, 329, 331,

Turn Island, and Rock,

278
Turn Point, 288,291,400,

422
Turret Rock, 830
Turtle Back, 285
Turtle Bay, 146
Tiirlles R.'cUs, 210
Tusubie River, 3o
Tutomittnlf. '''^'^
Twenty-feet UecU, -Oo
Twin island, 306 _
Twins Islands, 347
Two BiotluTs Ke<f, 8(>3
Two-bca.le.l Point, 490
Two Tree Islmd, 713
Tvablatooa 15ay, 836
Tve Sima, 898
Ty-pin'^-san Island, 000
T'ypso River, 247 ,

Tzaiirtoos Island, Sl^, ■■'i'

fakkonn. Cape, •)43

ITalan Island, 730

Ualan Islamls, 734

Uaro Sima, 606

Uinta P.-int, -U

TTcbuekksit Harbour, 331

ITcluolct Ann, 310
ITcona Rocks, 633 _
Udia-Milai Mauds,. 2 (
Udirick I>lands, 7'2o
Ildsi Island, 608
ITJsi Sima, 682
XTivago\ik Kivcr, 520
Uglv Channel, 310
ITjae Islands, 72b

0, 640

lit of, 645, 652,

681

[orks, 082
1 nay, 003
,65
iiv, 072

1, 620
nt, 294
•,401-2
ind, 762
1, 60!
il«nd, 496
av, 5(3

IJ'iiy and Kivcr,

Elivor, 521
id, 581
ver, u80
land, 288
liver, 180
Point and

IJiiy,

[I Arm, 48.')

n Island and Ann,

Rfcf, 296

Point and f'ai"^

md, 278,329, 331,

iland, and Kock,

lint, 288, 291, 406,

^ock, 830
?ack, 285
3i\V, 146
liix'ks, 210
^ Ivivir, 35
(tnlf, 02-2
..fipt Hock, 306
sliind, 300 _
IslandH, 347
lotlKTs U(Mt', 803
,a.le.l Toint, 490
no Island, 713
ilooa 15ay, 830
ma, 898
,o-.san Island, 900

Kivor, 247 ,,

:oo8l8land, 328, ,-,3)

5iin, Capo, 543
, Island, 739
1 Islamls, 734
SiiiiH, 000
, I'oiiil, :<4
okloHit llavlioar, 331
jlct Arm, 310
a Itdoks, 033 _
■Milai Inlands, .2,
ick I>liinds, 725
Island, 608

Sinia, 082
ro\di Kivor, 520
, Cluinntd, 310

Islandu, 72b

rjilonor r^land. 733

ir'kinsk l?av. Hoi

VM Sima, 644

Ukii Siiim, 071

XTlak Island, 515

IJlie IslaiiilB, 704

Ulithi Island, 706

Ulomnia bay, 803

Ulul Island, 700

ITmata, 808

Umata Bay and llivor, 798,

799
Umpquah River, 226
Unalachloet, 525
UnaUklik, 625
Unawb Island, 707
Union Island, 360
Union, La, 3, 56, 59
Union Telugraph Coinp., W.

500, 646
Ilniontown, 208
I'nit Rock, 288
Unoura Harbour, 661
Unwelcmo llarlionr, 749
U'-velcomo, I'ort, 744
t du Point, 834
TIprigbt, Cape, 632
Upright Channel, 280
Upright Channel and Hill,

282
Upright Cliff, 301
Upwood Point, 402-3
Uraga Channel, 632, 637,
639, 643-4

Ilnigo Channel, 632
Utii-kami Ilarliour, 620

Uranie Bank, 761

Ura-no-utsi, 601

Urava Poak, 14

Urrioaa Islands, 815

Urldtsh, 660

Urukttiapel Island, 773-4

TTriip Island, 666, 606

Us« less Bay, 269

TTseloss Inlet, 335

IJshisliir Islaml, 665

U Sima, 652

Usonri Bay, 589

Usubre River, 35

I'suri River, 585

Utholotskoi, Capo, 569

Utivik Islands, 718, 725

IJtiroa, 7 1 1

TJtone, 626

Uu, 744

IJwa Sima, 605

Vagares Islands, 42
Vakhilskaia River, 555
Vallo do Bandoras, 104
Valdos Island, 306, 406,

408
Valdos, Puerto do, 485
Vali, Cerro, 8
Valient es Islands, 752
Vallid<did Rock, 15
Vallnnar Point, 452
Vani'ouver Bay, 404
Vancouver, Cape, 522

INDEX.

Vaiirouver Island, 251, 271,

311, 326, 918
Vaiidalia Hlutl', 634
Vandeput Point, 461
Van dor Lind, Cape, 506
Van Dieman Strait, 598,

635, 921
Vansittart Island, 422
Vargas Cone and Island, 341
Vargas Island, 347
Vaiuation of tho Compass,

952
Vasilovft Roek, 473
Vashon Island, 259
Vashon Point and Island,

261
Voevidovskaia Islands and

Cove, 509
Veevidovskoi Volcano, 509
Vela Rocks, 889
A^olas, Capo, 39
Velasquez Island, 67
Vonado Island, 16, 114
Venados, Islas de lo-i, 113
Ventana Island, 26
Ventana Point, 21
Vontosa Bav, 83
Venus Shoal, La, 142
Veragua, 3

Veragua, Coast of, 912
Veraguas IMoiuitains, 1 1
Veraguas, Province of, 1
Verkhotoursky Island, 647,

652
Vermilion Soa, 112, 122
Vernon Bav, 337
Vesuvius Bay, 301
Vioontt; Point, 159
Victoria Harbour, 297, 319,

322
Victoria, La, 167
Victorieuse Island, 893
Victoria, Mount, 404
Viejo, Volcan de, 62, 53
Vigia Grmde, 99
Vigiallill, La, 102
Vigilant Point, 412
Village Island, 336, 362
Village Pass, 339
Village Point, 394
Villago Rocks, 335
Villeuchinski Jlountain, 557
Villnuoliinski Volcano, 554
Vinor Point, 408
Vineta Rock, 686
Violin, Pta., 34
Viqne Cove, 1 5
Viradores Islands, 40
Virago Rock, 308
Virago Sound, 439, 410
Virgeiius Paps. I^aa, 140
Virginie Mountain, 588
Virgin Rocks, 426
Viuda, 26
Viuda Rock, 25
Vivcros I-land, 7
Vnoshnoi, (^ipo, 571
Voovoda H ly, 5K9
Volano Island, '.'7

1005

Volcano Bay, 655
Volcan Isln.id, 875
Volcano Hill, 844
Volcano Island, 627, 880,

891, 893
Von Donop Crook, 407
Vouten River, 5 12
Vrics Island, 025, 643
Vulcan Island, 778

Wadasima Harbour, 615
Waddinirton Harbour, 410
Wafer Bav, 696
Waiakea Bay, 828
Waiakea Point, 831
Waialai Harbour, 846
Waikiki Anchorage, 852
Wailioli Mountain, 853
Waialua District, 846
AVaialuku River, 829
Waimanalo, 847
Waimanolo Point, 848
Waimanu Valley, 833
Waimoa Bay, 847-8, 853
Waimoa District, 834
Waisima Bay, 661
Wrtkasa Bay, 663
Wakayama, 614, 616
Wakonnenish Island, 312
Wakes Island, 792, 877
Walalla River, 203
Walckenanr Bay, 779
Waldron Islancl, 279, 294
Wains Island, 449
Wales Point, 434

Walker B ly, 880, 884

Walker Cove, 451

Walker Hook and Rock,
307

Walker Islands, 423, 697

Walker Point, 427

Wnlmouth Hill, 274

WaljKde Point, 461

Walvis Bay and Island?,
667

Waneka District, 745

Wappatoo Island, 230

Wanle Point, 464

Warn Bav, 344

Wain Island, 346

Warren Hastings Island,
783

W anon Island, 467

Wa saki, 658

Washington Harbour, 255

Washington Island, 435,
701

Washington, Mount, 395

VVashinirton Territory, 242,
269, 379

Wasisu vama, 661

Was]) Islands, 279, 284

Wa-siliefl' Bay, 501

WatiUL-ki, Capo, 591

.Waterfall Cr.'ok, 829

Waters I'oiiit, 4S0

Waxell, Cape, 5l8

Webster Island, 041

Wcdgo Head, 020

lif&tm'i'-Mn'^"

1006

Wedgo Island, 101, 370,
453

Wedge-shaped Cape, 506

Weeks Island, 876

Woowodhki Harbour, 460

WcllinKtim Islands, 742

WoBsiloflskv, Capo, 507

Westcott Ci-eck, 293

WestervcltH Islands, 755

Westminster, New, 272, 382

West Point, 260

West Kocks, 360

West Sound, 285

Woynton rnssnuo, 417,418

Whnlo Uiiy, 476

Whalo Channrl, 132

Whalo Creek, 231

Whale Fishery, 501

Whaleman Anchoiage, 700

Whale Rock, 320, 321
Whale Uocks, 277
Whaler Island, West, 347
Whalcy Point, 461, 663
\V hidboy Isliinds, 261, 269,

265-6
WhifBn Island, 317
Whil-apah Kivor, 244
White and Black Rocks,

275
White Beach Bay, 286
^\^lito Cliff, 282
White Cliff Bay, 588
White Cliff Head, 360, 362
White Cliff Point, ;•<' '9
Whitehorn Point, ', 276,

377
White Island, 99, 401, 405
Whiio Pine Cove, 347
White Rock, The, 279, 299,

300, 424, 669
White Rock Point, 617
White Hocks, 174
Whitistono Point, 371
White Spit, 309, 394
Whitshed Bav, 604
Wtnineiv Bay, 843
^\ 1 w Rock, 25
Wil. rBay, 689
Wilfred Point, 412
Willamette River, 241
AVilics Island, 422
Willes Harbour, 869-70
William Head, 319
William Point, 26S
Williitm the Fourth Islands,

761
Willow Point, 411,412
Wilson Isliind, 601, 665,

791
Wilson Islands, 763
Wilsim Point, 237
Wimlileaon Point, 450
Wiiiclitlsoa I-land, 3'J2
Winchester Bay, 227
Wincho-iicr ^toiintain, 688
Windham Point, 462
Winds of the North Pncific,

9,17—924, T'li' Giir liil
Arrangement, !;07 , 1-imils

INDEX.

of the Trado-winda, 900 ;
Calm Belt, 909; N.E.
Trade-wind, 910; S.W.
Anti-Trade or Passage
Winds, 910 ; Central Ame-
rica, 911; Guayaquil
River to Guascames Point,
911; Choco Bay, 911;
Chirnmbira Point to Gulf
of San Mi«uil, 911; Pa-
namn, 912; Gulf of
Dnlce to Cf ulf of Fonseca,
912; Gulf of Fonseca to
GulfofTohuaiitopec, 912;
Gnlf of Tohuantopec 1o
Texupan Point. 913; W.
Const of Mexico, 914 ;
Lower California, 915 ;
Capo San Lucas to San
l)iogo, 915: Ciilifoinia,
916 ; San Francisco, 917 ;
Vancouver Island, Alas-
ka, &c., 918; Bohrinis's
Sea, 920 ; Kamchatka,
920 ; Japan, 921 ; The
Islands. 923

California, 164

Caroline Archipela-

go, 737

Central America, 4

Gulf of Ti.rtury,

680

■ Hawaiian Archipe-
lago, 822
Ladrone Islands,

797

North Pacific, 907

V 1 Francisco, 193

ancuuvir Island,

314

Wingham Island, 482

Winter Cove, 290

Winter Harbour, 370

Wise Island, 30'i

W^ishai't Reef, 754

Witshed, Cape, 483

Woaboo,818

Woahoa Island, 846

Wodehouso Point, 473

Wolea Islands, 764

Wolf Island, 317

Wolf Rock, 458

Wooden Rock, 464, 467

Wood Hill, 897
Wood Islands, 344

Woodle Island, 707, 714
Woolridao Islanil, 400
Woody Island, 495
Woody Point, 327, 365
Worlconibo Island, 400
Works Canal, 433
Woronzow Point, 492
Worroray Mountain, 827
Wo Sima, 082
Wotje IshmdB, 722-3
Wol'tho Islands, 728
Wrangel Island, 454
W^nck I5av, 341
Wukido Island, 304

Worst, Cape, 676
Wn-simii, 608
Wu-sinia Channel. 607
Wyadila Island, 253

Xicalapn, 77

Xima, Cape, 621 '

Ximotepe, 47

Xipanga, 693

Yal'lonoi Krebit Mountains,

684
Yaflko yama, 060
Yakima Pass, 200
Yakuall or Yucpiot Sound,

349
Yukuno Sima, 891
Yale, 376, 381
Yama Kama and Harbour,

599
Yam Bay, 865
Yang-tse-kiang, 083
Yaniakinon, 639
Yaniskossery Island, 667
Yap Island, 767
Yaqui, 129
Yaqui, Rio, 126, 138
Ya(piinnah River, 228-9
Ya saki, 658
Ya simii, 606
Yaska Island, 460
Yebisu, 659
Yebosi sinm, 666
Yedo, 636
Yedo Bay, 640, 642
Yedo Bay and Gulf, 921
Y.do, Gulf of, 622, 032,

642
Yei Bay, 610
Y. irabu Sima, 894
Yellow Bluff, 418
YeUow Island, 284, 297,

393
Yellow Point, 300
Yeno, 608
Yenoi Sima, 670
Yco Island, 392
Yerabii Sima, 891
Yerba Buena, Cove of, 183
Yerba Buena Isbind, 189
Yorghin Shoal, 340
Yer-ra-bu, 900
Ye saki, 610
Yosan, Capo, 647
Yeso, 634

Yeso Island, 645. 653
Yetomo, Cape, 655
Yeterop Island, 666
Yev.- Point, 321
Yezo lKlni\d, 578, 596
Ykima Islan.l, 900
Ykitsk Island, 6(18
Ykolik, Cape, 490
Ynarajan Bay, 803
YncH, Punla, 134
Yobulio, fioO
Yobuko ILir! our, 668

•urn

-m=a,^

liipo, fl'fi

, ()08

I C^hunntl, 607

,77

app, 621
e,47
,693

i Krobit Mountiiins,

nma, CfiO
I'liss, '200
or Yiuiuot Sound,

Sima, 891

6, 381

uima and Harbour,

ly, 865

c-kiang, 083

noil, 639

issery Island, 657

iind, 767

129

Kio, 126> 138

iiiih River, 228-9

, 668

I, 606

Island, 460

669

ainm, 666
i36

lay, 640, 642
lay and Gulf, 021

Gulf of, 622, 632,

y, 610
11 Siina, 804
muff, 418
Island, 284, 297,

Point, 300

308

Sima, 670

land, 392

1 Sima, 891

Bucna, Uovo of, 183

lluena Island, 189

in Shoal, 310

-bu, 900

:i, 610

, Capo, 647

634

sland, 645, 663

lO, Cape, 666

)p Island, 606

»oint, 321

lislnnd, 678, 696

I Ibliin.l, 900

< Island, 6(18

k. Cape, 490

ijan r.ay, 803

'I'unta, 134

lio, fi;-o

ko ILir! our, 068

■^'oilo-n^awa Hiver, Oil
Viidsilii Kock, 003
^'<ika Sima, 008
Vdkd, 007

Ynkolmma and Hay, 641
^■llk(liNn, Cape, 640
^'iiko iSirna, h93
^'dH Sima, 896
^'ork, Cape, 529
Yosino, 009
Wino liluir, 610
N'ouc'liin, Cape, 648
■^ Oiinaska Island, 510
Youiiff's rt., 2;'8, 401, 403
Voiin^'s HivM-, Point & Bay,
239

TNDFA'.

Vomiik'h Hay, -j;!!)
^'l)||p-Ilut Kivcr, .)2i)
N'slapa, Morro dii, N.i
Yukim Hivor, 623
Vulo Island, 304
Vatna, Fort, 131
Vura and Fort, 613
Yura No I'chi, 617
Vuri, 006, 661

Zacatula River, 97
Zadan, Cerro do, 87, 90
/akharovskaia Hay, 603
ZapatiTa, 48
iiapoto, 48, 76

1007

Zarcnibo I.«lanil, 466
/arpani' Island, 803
/.ivalichiiic, Capo, 744
/ayas, Ulo dc, 443
/lalaiidia Kocks, 811
Zcballos Arm, 368
Zi'd/oMPS Islands, 28
Ziro U.ick, 2H7, 289
Zipogurt, Punta do, 85
Zojfa Saki, 010
Zoii/onatc!, 68
Zouboff Islands, 533
Zuciarto Channid, 353
Zuniga Point, 149, 150
Zuniga Shoal, 166

PUBLISHED BY RICHARD H0LMU8

LAURIE, 53, FLEET 8TIIEET, LONDON, B.C.

I ' li iOi iiriii '— '*^ - ' ' " ■ *■"■— i^- .-^-— ~-— -■

.—■X.-i'.-.-^J^He'-

mEET, LONDON, E-C