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A L '!...• C L' « R E N T p^,,iV>»^ ~-^ /, X (• A Ii I 1', !■. K A I iirrfllt.^ y,irt>li'i .t< S, — • — ^x (• A Ii I 1'. 1'. y. K S K A ,^.^../^.../. • * f'pl*^'^"'* ^ B ■; Ircm /i' '<> «tt (Jwutma^J. U R Equator i IK'! (bt'oe . Phtmix • ■l,"u«d. E Q ^ A. • ■ «->;■■■ t A L ■ ■«" -.Ha:.;;. C U R — w-1^ Qiiiti rj//r f/i«( ticl l'llittl^t(^^V t.i> , iifftniirii at ''•<"« ^ i;ti MVO _ 1.-) •» Mil laiO . _ _ J'-t> R F N ■ . T ■ ;tfr'iii3ir-,jraL - ' j ' i^ijii ii uo _ ri" E!W . jea.. :e-i. ^m tjj jar« 1(10 no r ■ I -If- ■ ^1 _f. HO ( \. l'.lVt;> ■N , y c/^ DIRECTOR Y l-Oll THK NAVIOATION 01' THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN WITH DESCUn'TIONS Of ITS COASTS, ISLANDS, ETC., I'P.OM PANAMA TO BEHRING STRAIT AND JAPAN, ITS WINDS, CUERENTS, AND PASSAGES. SECOND EDITION. BY ALEXANDER GEO.- FINDLAT, F.R.G.S., Honorary Mvmber of the Societa Ocografica ItaUana, lONDON ; PUBLISHED FOE RICHAKD HOLMES LAURIE, 63, FLEET STREET, E.G. ^^ ;St.';®ffsn.-.,«**j*---t^.-?^es^'7^-)Fw*^ •g»Y* "'"). , ..y Vl ^ !' ?' ' _ j^' ^J L ' "^"- i 0.i '|i iv » rt. i iM F f ! * .>»-'A*3wit^ iw ^fc» ^ IV PEEFACE. n described in this vohniio, tliiittlio clmngo is astonishing whon it is considered in how shoii; a period it lias boon ofFocted. Tho present work then refers to a nuich more important subject than was tho case witli tho preceding edition ; and, Avith its increase of interest, tho improved knowledge of its hydrogi-aphy will bo found to have kep< pace. As is stated in tho introduction to tho South Pacific Directory, ♦his edition is difforoitly arranged to tho first. In that, the first] part referred to tho coasts, tho second to tho islands of tho Pacific Ocean. These later editions separate tho oceans by tho equator, and oach volume describes tho area North or South of it, and is thus complete in itself, although supplementary to each othor. It is scarcely necessary to recount the steps which have boon nuido in our knowledge of tho Pacific and its coasts. Up to a very recent time the reci- tal of each voyage was a tale of discovery and adventure. Many of them are familiar household stories. Captain Cook'n voyage is scarcely forgotten as a narrative ; yet not a contiu-y since ho commonced the real work of correctly describing tho Pacific. The voyages and surveys of J'aiuvurer, 1791 to 1794, are still tho best authority for tho coasts of Alaska and British Colinubia. At tho same period tho Spaniards had sent the well known comnumders (lahano and Valdez, and also tho unfortunate Malaspimi, and his companion Bmtamente ; these are deserving of all good mention. They examined much of the Western coast of America. Admiral Eruncndern, tho hydrographer of the Pacific, follows next in order, and ho first gave a correct notion of Japan, Okhotsk, and the adjacent parts of Asia (in 1803 — 180G) ; and, most important of all, has left an in- valuable and noble work on the Pacific (1824, 1827), to which very many of the subsequent pages are indebted. To another Eussian ofiicer. Captain Frederic Lutkv, wo still are almost solely indebted for Avhat wo know of tho inclement Sea of I5ehring, and of much of the Caroline Archipelago. A third, Otto Von Kotzchiic, was sent by the Eussian Government to tho North Pacific in 1815 — 1818, and sur- veyed tho Marshall Islands and other parts. Of our own coimtrynien, in later times, the late Admiral Frederic William Beechey, stands prominent. Ilis voyage in tho JJlvusvin, 1826 — 1828, is in a rREFACE. it is considered ibject tlian was )f interest, the avo kop< pace, ry, ♦liis edition referred to tlio later editions the areaNortli [)pleraontary to en made in our i time tlie reei- Miiny of them cly forgcjtten as ork of correctly •, 1791 to 1794, itish Cohnubia. rn conuiianders liis companion 'hey examined follows next in nd the adjacent has left an in- ich very many still ai'o ahnost f IJeliring, and dzchiie, was sent -1818, and sur- ''Vcderic William 6 — 1828, is in a scientific point of view one of the most important. lie fixed many positions on the American coast, surveyed Behrinfj; Strait, the Sandwich Islands, the Lu-chu Islands, &(•. The same commander afterwards, in 183.'j-fi, again went to the Pacific, in tho Sulphur, hut being invalided, ho resigned his command to Captain, afterwards Sir I'dwnrd liclcher. The Sulphur did excellent service in reconciling many points in doubt, in surveying many other places of great importance, and adding a great fund of infonnation to North Pacific hydro- graphy. While the Sulphur was thus employed, the French frigate La Venus, under Captain A. Du Petit Thouars, in 1837-8, collected a great amount of valuable information on the whale fishery, besides surveying and deteraiining tho positions of many places. Omitting many minor authorities, the noblo work by Von Siebuld on J apan, published by tho Dutch Government, 1823-30, deserves every admiration, and is worthy of a nation. Another truly national undertaking was tho United States Exploring Expedition, organized under Commodore Charles Wilhes, 1838. The works of this imiwi-tant surveying squadron need not to be further alhuled to. Later tlian this we may notice the voyage of the Jlerald, under Captain (now Admiral) Kellett, E.N., and his throe voyages to the Arctic Sea, as chronicled by Dr. Berthold Seemann, 1845-51. These and many other works are duly acknowledged as our authorities. Since tho period when the foregoing voyages were undertaken, the great changes before alluded to have come over the countries bordering on the North Pacific. Commencing with Central America, we have made use of the work of Captain De lioaencoat of tho L Ohligado, on the province of Veraguas, in 1854, and of the observations of J/. De Lapelin, of tho French corvette La Brillante, 1852. On the cession by treaty of the Californian territory to the United States, that Government immediately took measures (1848) to acquire a better knoAvledge of its coasts, and the ultimate result was tho perfect directoiy drawn up by Assistant Geo. Davidson, U.S.N. , from the surveys and observa- tions of tho U.S. Coast Survey in 1863, chiefly under Commanders W. A. Bartlell, Mv Arthur, imiXJus. Akkn, U.S.N., 1848—1858. These directions, VI rUKFAClO. . ; comitriHod iu Cluiptor IV. iiro hiviiliiiiMi', and (Unboily all provious ob- Hi'vationa. Tho slioros of Jimn do Fuca Strait were survoyod by Captain Kclleft in 1817. Vancouver's work supplies tho basis of our present knowledgo of tho inlets to tho 8.E. of it. Vancouver's Island and tho adjacent shores of tho continent worn admi- rably and minutely surveyed by tho present liydrographer, Captain (I. II. Richards, R.N., C.13., 18.59—180"), assisted by several meritorious oflicerH, of whom Captain R. C. Mayne and Alessrs. J. A. liuU and D. Pnufer may bo mentioned. The Vancouver Island Pilot, drawn up from tho observations thus collected, forms the basis of Chapterc V. and VI. It will bo soon that we have added many important details from tho very interesting works of Lord Milton, Captain Mayne, Mr. Whymper, and other adventurous and recent travellers. To tho North of this Vancouver's work still remains tho chief authority. Of Alaska, tho older authotitios are still th^ chief, but of the Sitka Archi- pelago the Ilussian oificors have made much better charts, published iu 1848 — 18.50, chiefly from the surveys of Cupt. Yassilicjf. Of tho remainder of the territory of Alaska it is gratifying to find that our first edition is still considered to be useful, for the United States' Government have recently (in the present year) reprinted that portion as a guide for their newly acquired territory. Proceeding to tho north-west, the chief advances made in tho hylrography arose out of the French and English Expeditions to China in 1854-7, and, for the new Ilussian possessions, their surveys of 1849 — 1854. Our knowledge of Japan has greatly and rapidly improved. It may bo said to have commenced with Commodore Perry^s U.S. Expedition in 185;3-4. The singidar circumstances related on page 598 as to a remarkable and excellent native map, will be of great interest. It was drawn up by tho astronomer Takapasi Lakmaimon, who destroyed himself when it was disco- covered that he had furnished a copy to a European resident. This has served in many parts as a basis of our knowledge, and this, with tho surveys of Commaudera Ward and JJroukcr, E.N., and especially of Commander — .^..A'. ^t.fc'wU.* I'liEFACE. vli previous ob- ain Kellelt in iwlctlgo of tho it were ailnii- jixptain G. 11. irious officcrH, Vender may bo ) obsorvatioi'.s bo Hocn tliut iting works of .fenturoiiH and 1 remuiuti thu .0 Sitka Ardil- 2)ublisheil lu the romaiudcr edition is still liave roct'iitiy r their uowly ) hydrography I 1854-7, and, 1. It may bo tion in 18.0;3-4. markablo and yn up by tho 1 it was disco- iut. This has th tho survoys f Commander Chnrh'it nuffoel; I'.N., will nppoar as oxact and porfcct rpprosontations of tho plat'os of groatofit intorost. Of tho islands and archipoIagocH which aro dispersod ovor tho surfafo of tho North Pacific wo cannot speak horo in dotnil. Thoir positions and tho descriptions of thoir characteristics aro dorivod in each caso fro(]Hontly from many sources, which aro duly stated. To tho authorities here onunioratod, and to many others whoso obserrn- tions aro distributed throughout the following pages, our especial thanks and acknowledgements aro rendered. Tliis volume has been long delayed. Many avocations Imve prevented tho author till now from devoting that time io it which tho importance of its topics would command. However, in now offering it to thi' n .uticnl world, he trusts that no source of information has been overlooked, and that thu book will be found to be deserving of their confidence. Tt is the last of a series of six volumes bearing the Editor's name, \,iiich comprehend a dcRcriptic ■ ' ho whole ocean-world. And thus completing hb labours, he W'lidd express the gratification it has boon through many years to collect and arrange tlio materials thus submitted. A. O. FINDLAY. Loudon, Sejjfembfr 1, 1H70. CONTENTS. ■ SECTION I. PAOK PREFACE iii TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS xi SECTION II, Chapter I.— THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA 1—77 1. The Coast OF New Granada; Panama to Point Burica 6 2. Costa Rica 29 3. Nicaragua 43 4. San Salvador 63 0. Guatemala 72 Chapter II.— THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, between Tehuantepec and Mazatlan 78 — 1 1 8 Chapter III.- THE GULF AND PENINSULA OF LOWER CALIFORNIA 119—151 Chapter IV.— THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA 15^-214 Chapter V.— THE COAST OF OREGON, Etc., FROM CAPE BLANCO TO ADMIRALTY INLET 215-270 PAOK iii xi CA 1—77 3INT BURICA •') 29 lU , an 72 , BETWEEN 78—118 ^ LOWEE 119—151 isr -214 m CAPF, 215—270 CONTENTS. ix PAGE Chapter VI.— VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC 271—374 CnAPTEE VII.— BRITISH COLUMBIA, ETC 375-444 Chapter VIII.— THE COAST OF ALASKA, FROM PORT- LAND CANAL TO THE KODIAK ARCHIPELAGO . . 4 15— 497 Chapter IX.— THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, BEHRINO SEA, ETC 498-549 Chapter X.— KAMCHATKA, OKHOTSK, AND THE KU- RILE ARCHIPELAGO 550—592 Chapter XL— THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO 593—688 SECTION III. THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN 689—693 Chapter XII.— ISLANDS BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND LAI'. 10^ N 694 The Gilbert Archipelago 700 The Marshall Archipelago 718 The Caroline Archipelago 734 The Palau or Polew Islands 770 Chapter XIIL— ISLANDS BETWEEN LATS. 10° AND 20^ N., INCLUDING THE MARIANA OR LADRONE ISLANDS 785-817 Chapter XIV.— ISLANDS TO THE NORTHWARD OF LAT. 20° N., INCLUDING ^ THE HAWAIIAN OR SAND- WICH ISLANDS '. 818—905 North Pacific. f CONTENTS. SECTION IV. PAOE CiiAPTKn XV.— THE rnENOMENA OP, AND DIRECTIONS FOR THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN 906—975 1. Winds 907 2. Tides, with Tide Tallies 924 3. Currents 934 4. MnRTiGtic Variation 952 5. Passages 953 ALPHABETICAL INDEX 977 ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Currents of the North Pacific Ocean To face Title 2. Bay and Isthmus of Panama page 3. Harbour of San Francisco 4. Strait of Juan de Fuca and Victoria Harbours 6. Hawaiian Archipelago 6. Winds of the North Pacific 7. Currents and Whaling Grounds , 8. Magnetic Variation 9. Passages in the Pacific Ocean , 5 182 251 818 907 934 952 954 rioNS rAOE 906—975 907 924 934 952 9r)3 977 1 • • , To face Title. .. . page 5 .. 182 • • 1 251 • • 818 • ■ ( 907 • • 934 ... 952 • * 954 T ABLE OF THE GEOGRAPIIICAL TOSITIONS IN THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. CENTRAL AJIERICA. Qiiranhine Point, N.E. extreme - ratino Point, centre of ialot Diiricn Ilnrbour, Graham Point !Saa .fose IJaiik, Trollopa liuok - Sal)o;^a Island, Church IJrava I'oint, West extreme Pa jaros Inlands, N.VV. Island - Galora Island, centre - . . Isla del Hoy, extreme of Cocoa Point (ronzalos Island, Ilavannah Head San Joso Island, I)i;iiana Point - Pidado Island, centre Chopillo Island, the tree PANAMA, N.E. biistion Flamenco Island, North point - Bona Island, peak ... Point Chamc, extreme Parita Bay, Liso Point Iq;uana Island, centre Cape j\Iala, extreme ... IjOS Frailfs, South Hock ISlariato Point, S W. extreme Montijo Bay, !S.W. pt. of Gobomador Id. - „ East point of Cebaco Island . Qiiibo or Coibu Island, IJamas Bay, water- ing place - - - . ,1 Ilermosa or W. pt. Ilicarita, South point - . . Bahia Honda, Sontinida Isl md . Contreras, Hrincano Island, North point - Port Pueblo Nuevo, Rocks of JIagnetic Id. „ Perdono or Intrusa Id. Spcas Islands, La Bruga Hock - David Bay, Saino Island, South side Palen(iue Island, Deer Island, off S.E. pt. Parida Island, watering-place in Chiinmo Bay - I,at. North. I.OIlff. West. Authorities. Page # II 8 6 o » . II 78 21 15 The survey I)y 6 8 i6 20 78 17 10 Cai.t. II. Kellctt, 6 8 28 50 78 4 40 H.N., O.B., and 6 8 6 40 78 37 40 (Jom. Jas. Wood, tt 8 37 10 79 3 'o H.N., 184.3-18. 7 8 20 36 78 24 30 7 8 32 20 78 32 10 7 8 1 1 20 78 45 45 8 8 12 30 78 53 45 8 8 25 79 5 5° 8 8 18 25 79 6 30 '.) 8 37 35 78 41 40 10 8 S(> l^ 79 7 10 8 56 56 79 3i 9 10 8 54 3° 79 30 20 13 8 33 35 79 34 5 lo 8 39 79 40 50 lo 8 58 10 80 20 40 15 7 37 5 79 59 lo 7 27 40 79 58 30 1(5 7 19 40 So 7 Kcllott & Wood, 11} 7 12 80 51 30 1849. 17 7 32 81 12 )i 17 7 33 80 59 15 »» 17 7 23 10 Si 42 J. Wood. 18 7 ^4 .50 81 53 3" »> 18 7 6 15 81 48 10 II I'J 7 43 32 81 29 I Sir H. Belcher. 1!) 7 52 81 46 Wood. 22 8 4 39 81 45 30 Sir K. IJtlciicr. 24 8 4 5-! Si 43 I)i> Ilosencoat. 24 7 59 ° 81 57 30 Wood. 25 8 II 52 82 !2 8 !)(! itosencoat. 27 8 10 13 Sj n 40 Wood. 27 8 5 5° 82 20 40 '» 28 J !|^ I zii TABLE OF GEOOEAPHIOA.L POSITIONS. Ludroncs Islands, South I«lo Blontuosa, S.E. cud - Burica Point, Buiica Island off it Gulf of Dulce, Cape Matapalo - „ I'unta AronitKs - Sal-si-puedes Point, S.W. extreme Point Llorona, extreme Cano Island, S.W. point I'oint Mala - - . Port Horradura, lake on boach - Gulf of Nicoya, Blanco Island off cape 11 Caldera, hot springs „ Pan de Azucar - „ Punta Arenas, liKhtho. CapeVelasP - . . Gorda Point Port Culelirn, head of port Point Santa Elena Salinas Bay, Salinas Island San Juan del Sur, South bluff - Cape Dosolada Realejo, Cardon Island, North point FonsecA, or Conchagua Gulf; Coseguina Volcano - - . . )> Port La Union, Chicarene Point Port Jiquilisco, or Triunfo de los Libres - Bivor Lempa, Barra del Esp. Santo Volcan de 8. Miguel, 7,024 feet - I'ort Liburtad, flagstaff City of San Salvador - . . I'oit Aciijiitla, or Sonsonate, Pt. Ec-nedios Isalco Volcano - . . Port of Istapa or Iztapam Volcan de Agua - . . Volcan de Fuego ... San Jose de Guatemala, pier head WEST COAST OF MEXICO. Boca Barra, about liii Ventosa Bay, Morro Bay of Bamb,i,"Punta de Zipegua Jlorro of Ystapa, or Ayuca Bay of Rosario, Jlorro'de las Salinas I'ort Giiatulco, i.slcts off Port Sacriticios, Sacrificios Lsland Puerto Angel or Port Angeles . Alcalras Bock Acapulco, Town of, Fort S. Diego Paps of Coyuca Point J(!(iuepa Morro do Patallan Port Sihuitntanojo, head of port Mangrove Bluff Paps of Teiupan Colimu Volcano, 12,003 foct, summit Lat. North. I-ontf. WP8t. Authorities. 7 5i o 7 27 35 8 I o 8 i6 o 8 32 o 8 23 o 8 34 o 8 39 4.5 9 8 o 9 38 30 9 32 4? 9 54 25 9 55 48 9 58 50 10 13 o 10 31 o >o 36 55 "o 55 o 11 2 50 11 15 12 12 21 o '2 27 55 12 58 o '3 17 5 13 22 o >3 13 o '3 25 30 13 26 30 13 48 o •3 34 30 '3 47 o I-', 56 16 '4 32 50 i '4 33 o i '3 53 40 82 24 40 82 13 5 82 54 35 83 >7 5 83 16 30 83 34 o 83 43 o 83 50 20 83 39 o 84 36 85 4 84 39 84 50 84 45 85 48 85 43 85 33 30 85 46 o 85 40 45 85 53 o 86 59 o 87 9 30 87 37 o 7 10 o 2 o o 30 16 12 16 9 16 I '5 5' '5 50 '5 44 '5 44 •5 44 "5 58 16 15 17 6 17 20 17 3* •7 38 •7 54 18 20 19 24 87 42 88 12 88 17 88 20 89 23 89 4 8953 89 33 90 49 90 50 30 9° 59 3' 90 45 o Kellett. De Lapelin. Sir E. Belcher. Sir E. Belcher. »» Sir E. Belcher. Spanish MS. Lapelin. 94 95 95 . 9? 96 : 96 96 96 97 99 100 101 lOI lOI 102 '03 45 o 4 37 28 30 43 56 Harvey. 2 10 '9 42 3" 5° o 8 24 O ,10! 30 52 12 41 I 18 O 34 » ! Trastour, Bauza. Masters. Sir E. Belcher. Masters. Sir E. Belcher. Spanish MS. Bauza, Sir E. Belcher. [1847. Captain Kellott, G. H. Richurds. Pago 28 28 29 30 31 33 33 33 34 35 35 36 87 37 39 40 40 42 42 44 47 fiO 68 59 64 65 65 60 67 68 70 73 74 74 75 83 83 8-^ 85 86 89 91 91 91 92 96 96 16 97 97 98 100 TABLE OF OEOGEArniCAL POSITIONS. xiu Pago ett. 28 » 28 » 29 ^npelin. 30 31 33 33 33 34 3. Belcher. 3d 35 3G 37 37 83 83 8p 8.5 S6 81) 91 91 91 92 96 90 16 97 97 98 100 I.iit. North. JIanzanilla Bay, West end of village J'ort Nnvidail, North hoaoh Perula Bay, Observation Cove at N. end - Capo Corriontos, extremity Point Slita, extremity La Corvetana Kock . . . Tros Marias Islands, S. Juanito Island Piedra de Mar, 130 foot San Bias, Arsenal ... Isabel Island ... Kio Chamctla, or del Kosario, \V. ])oint 3lAZATiiAN, Creaton Island, extreme LOWER CALIFOIIXIA. Cidiacan Shoals, S.W. edgo Altata, village San Ignacio Island Point San Innacio Estero de Agrabampo, cross on hill Point Rqja . - - . Lobos Marines Island - Rio Yaqiii, entrance - . . Guaymas, Morro Almagro Cape Haro . . - . Tetas de Cahra, or Paps St. Pedro Nolasco . . . Tiburon Island, West point Rio Colorado, Invincible or S.E. point Angeles Island, South point Angeles Buy . - . Cape S. Gabriel . . - Cape de las Virgencs - - . Moleje Bay, village . - . Point Concepcion - . . Pulpito Road, North point Port Mangles . . . Carmen Island, Salinas Bay Real do Loreto . . . Catalana Island, North point San Josef Island, Amortajada Bay Espiritu Santo Island, Lopona or S. pt. - „ San Gabriel Bay - La Paz, town . . . Cerralbo Island, North end S. Jose del Cabo, mission flagstaff Cape !^"- Lucas . . . Mesaf: J. .arvaez . . . Gulf of Magdalona, Observation Station, Delgada Point ... Capo San Lazaro, 1,300 feet Farailones Alijos Rocks Point Abreqjos ... Asuncion Island ... San Bartolomc, or Turtle Bay N. head Cedro.s, or Cerros Island, South point San Benito Islands, W. I. - H 37 o 24 36 36 25 39 30 26 16 ^6 43 27 19 27 48 27 53 50 27 50 o 27 ,56 o 27 59 o 28 54 o 3' 50 26 29 6 o 29 5 28 36 27 46 26 52 26 54 26 30 50 26 16 30 25 59 25 56 25 43 24 54 30 24 24 15 24 25 24 7 24 22 23 3 22 52 23 56 34 o o o 30 o 15 o o West. .\uthoritic8. TiiKC '9 i '3 19 13 o >9 34 3' 20 25 o 20 46 o 20 42 o 2 1 44 o 2« 34 30 21 32 20 21 15 10 22 50 o 23 n 40 24 38 18 24 44 50 24 51 o 26 42 o 27 8 o 27 39 50 28 3 o 28 12 o , „ 104 "7 4« 104 41 25 ■05 36 33 '05 39 21 101; 28 105 46 40 106 3» '05 30 '05 16 105 51 35 10? 5!i 106 23 4'i 108 8 o 107 52 26 109 28 o 109 26 109 13 '09 45 no 41 no 38 no 49 II no 54 o 111 5 o in 14 o 112 26 o 114 46 43 112 52 o 113 25 30 112 42 O 11231 O 112 29 O III 45 O I" 25 15 in 22 15 •" 5 III 20 no 49 30 ■"> 35 23 no 18 20 no 19 o no 16 20 109 56 o '°9 37 53 109 53 o no 52 o 45 o 112 112 "5 "3 114 114 "5 '«5 6 16 47 34 18 5' n 46 G. II, Richards. »i it Charts. »f Beechey. K.N. Charts. T. Warr. Derby. Charts. Town send Charts. K.;llutt. Uosamel, 1840 Charts. Derby. Charts. Wilcox. Charts. Kellett. American chart. Kellett. Dent. Chart. Kellett. Sir E. Belcher. Charts. Sir E. Belcher. Charts. Du P. Thouars. Charts. Sir E. Belcher. Charts. 08 101 102 103 104 104 104 106 106 112 112 112 123 124 12.5 12.5 125 12.5 126 126 126 128 128 130 1?1 132 133 134 134 134 134 135 135 135 136 135 13.5 137 137 137 137 138 139 140 141 141 144 145 146 146 147 148 It XIV TABLE OF OEOaRAPniCAL POSITIONS. I.nt. North. I.onK. Wu»t. Autlioritio. riiiya Maria IJay, Sta. Slaria I'oint St. ilcronimo Lslaml - I'ort San (iuentin, West pt. of ontranco I'oint /iimisa Ccniziis Island, N.W. point Capo ColnHtt, S.W. point 'I'odos lo8 Santos t!ay, I'oint Orajoro Lot) Curonudoa itiluts, hi{;hoat point 575 ft COAST OF CALIFORNIA. San Ilic'go Bay. Initial point of boundary obelisk . . - - „ Point Loma LighthouBO San Luis Key, anchorago oif San Junn Capistrano, anchorage off San l'<;dro Bay, bluff at landing I'uint Huencmo ... Buenaventura Mission Santa Biirbara, lighthouse I'oint Concepcion, lighthouse - El Co.\o, bluff Cortes Shoal, Bishop Kock 1.5 foet San Clemento Island, rocky islet at N.W. anchorage ... Santii Catalina Island, rock at North cove Santa Barbara Island, summit - San Nicolas Island, S.E. point - John Begg liock, 40 feet high - Anacapa Island, liast end Santa Cruz Island, Prisoners' Harbour Santa llosa Island, \V. point Sr.a Miguel Island, Cuylers Harb., S.W. part .... San Luis Obispo, bluff West of creek San Simeon, beach at S.W. part I'oint Pinos, lighthouse - - MoNTBUBY, Custom-house wharf Santa Cruz, bluff at cmbarcadero SAN FUANCISCO, Point Boneta lightho. „ Telegraph Hill, near Observatory „ Presidio, astronomical station - Sir Francis Drake's Bay, astronomical sta- tion East of head . . - Point Koyes, lighthouse South Farallon lighthouse North Farallon ... Bodega Head, summit I mile from extreme Bodega Bay, Fort lioss Point Arena, extreme Shelter Cove, S.E. part of bluff ^8 55 29 48 30 21 30 30 30 3^ 30 59 3« 44 32 21 46 3» 3' 59 3^ 40 »3 33 «7 o 33 26 33 43 34 8 34 '5 34 23 34 26 47 34 26 56 3» 15 45 33 2 o 33 26 34 33 30 o 33 '4 '3 33 " 30 34 I o 34 ' »o 33 58 30 34 3 o 35 'o 37 35 38 24 36 37 58 36 36 17 36 57 ^7 37 49 "° 37 47 53 37 47 29 37 59 35 37 59 39 37 4' 49 37 46 38 18 38 30 38 57 40 I 114 31 o "5 47 o "5 56 33 ■15 5S o 1 16 2 o 116 15 o 116 46 o 117 "3 21 17 611 17 12 22 17 29 o •7 43 18 6 19 9 '9 '5 19 42 20 27 io 2j 39 '950 18 34 o 18 28 45 19 2 o 19 25 o 19 39 30 19 19 c 19 40 o 20 12 30 20 20 27 20 43 31 21 10 22 2' 55 o 21 52 27 22 o 10 22 30 50 22 23 10 22 26 15 " 57 36 ^3 o 13 " 59 ^3 5 23 i n '3 ^3 45 M 3 Capt. Kellctt. Sir E. Belchpv. Vancouver. The Survey by the U.S. officers under Lieut. W, A.Bartlett,1849; Comm. J. Alden, 1853; and As- sistant Geo. Da- vidson, 1863. Sir E. Belcher. Coinmr. James Wood, K.N, U.S. Co, Survey. By Eloctnc Te- legraph. U.S. Co. Survey. Page 148 149 149 160 150 160 160 161 166 167 168 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 164 166 166 168 168 169 169 169 170 171 172 174 176 177 179 184 184 184 196 196 197 198 200 •201 203 206 ^i'.*,. TABLE OF GEOORArillCAL TOSITIONS. XV AutlioriticB. Pago t. KcUett. 148 149 K. Bolchrv. 149 icouver. 160 >» 150 i> 160 » 160 » 161 lio Survey by U.S. officers 166 er Lieut. W. 167 JartUt,1849; 168 im. J. AlJon, 3 ; and As- mt Geo. Da- on, 1863. E. Belcher. 168 >» 169 ji 160 » 161 »f 162 t> 163 tt 164 >» 164 »» 166 inmr. James 166 jd, U.N. 168 )* 168 »» 169 »> 169 M 169 »> 170 tf 171 S. Co, Survey. 172 f> 174 M 176 »» 177 J» 179 )» 184 r Electric To- 184 il ph. . Co. Survey. 184 >» 196 »f 196 >> 197 »i 198 11 200 » 201 »» 203 »» 20o Capo MonJocino . . . Humboldt May, lighniouan on North spit - 'I'liiiidHd Iliiy, nock near town - Klamath Hivor, entrance (JrcHcent City Hay, lighthouse - I'olican IJuy, ontruuco of river - COAST OF OREGON. Port OrforJ, summit of ridge \V. of towTi - Capo Orford or lilanco - - Coquillu liivor, entrance Cape Gregory or Arago, N.W. point Koos Bay, Kooa Head Umpquah Uiver, lighthouse Capo Porpetua . . . Capo Foulweather . - . Capo Lookout . . . Capo Meures . . . Tillamook Bay, entrance Columbia River, Point Adams • „ Cape Disappointment, lighthouse - ,1 Astor Point Washington Tehritory. Shoalwater Bay, Loadbetter or Low Point Cape Shoalwater, lighthouse Graj''s Harbour, Point Hanson - Point GrenvUle, bluflf Juan db Tvca Strait. Cape Flattery, lighthouse on Tatouch Id. - Neeah Bay, Obs. pt., Wyadda Island New Dungeness, lighthouse on North end of spit .... Blunt or Smith Island, lightho. on highest part . . . . Admiralty Inlbt. Whidbcy Island, Admiralty Head lightho . lieetoration Point . . . Steilacoom, Fort . . . Budd Inlet ; Olympia Whidboy Island, Partridge Point liUmmi Island, North point Scmiahmoo Bay, Parallel station Lopez Island, Cape Colville, R.E. point - San Juan Island, II. B. Co.'s post at S. end l.iit. North. 40 26 40 40 41 ;i 41 33 41 44 41 64 42 24 22 42 50 43 7 43 20 30 43 21 4 43 40 44 19 44 45 45 20 45 30 45 34 19 46 12 30 46 16 33 46 11 28 4<3 36 45 46 44 11 46 53 49 47 20 48 23 10 48 22 30 48 10 69 48 19 48 9 22 47 35 6 9 50 1 30 12 30 44 63 47 47 48 48 49 48 25 35 48 27 45 Loiilf. \V(«t. 124 124 124 124 124 124 22 12 21 8 8 5 11 22 11 124 28 47 124 121 124 124 18 124 11 124 6 124 4 124 123 58 123 57 30 24 22 123 66 60 124 2 13 123 49 32 124 45 124 2 24 124 6 42 124 14 124 45 10 124 36 15 123 6 7 122 51 30 122 39 30 122 28 16 122 32 122 51 122 46 122 42 12 122 45 30 122 48 .30 123 2 Authoi'ltien. I'.'.jrc r.S. Co. Survey. 206 2IIS 210 211 212 213 Capt. KeUett. Vancouver. Captain G. II. Richards. 220 222 223 221 225 227 228 22(1 230 230 230 234 230 239 242 243 240 248 253 264 2m 267 258 260 262 263 260 269 269 274 293 xvi TABLE OF OEOORArniCAL POSITIONS. I,;it. Xiiitli. Wcul. VANCOUVER ISLAND, ETC. Port Snn Juan, Pinnnclo Rock, North side of Tiay . . . . Sooko Inlet, Secretary iHland - Race Island, lishtho. on Groat Race Rock Esquimau Harbour, Duntze Head Victoria Hakhoih, Laurel point Barclay Sound, Cape licale, W.E. point „ Observ. islet. Island hnrb. „ Observ. Id., Alberni canal Stamp harbour Clayoquot Sound, Observ. I., Hecate Bay - liefugo Cove, villaRO on West side Ho8(iuiat Harbour, boat cove Estovan Point, South extreme - Nootka Sound, Fricndlj' Cove - Nuchatlitz Inlet, Port Langford, Colwood Islet . . . . Esperanza Inlet, rock, Queen's cove Kyuquot Sound, Shingle point, at entrance of Narrowgut crook Nasparti Inlet, Head boach Cape Cook or Woody I'oint, Solander Id. - Quatsino Sound, Observ. islet, Koprino harbour . - - - „ rock, North harbour BRITISH COLUMBIA. Point Roberts, Parallel station, W. side - Eraser River entrance, Garry point New Westminster, Military barracks Burrard Inlet, English Bay, Government reserve . - - - Nanaimo Harbour, Dr. Benson's house - Howe Sound, Plumper Cove Nanoose Harbour, Entrance Rock Bayncs Sound, Henry Bay, Beak point - Quathiasky Cove, Valdes Islaud, S. point - Knox Bay, Thurlow island. Stream at head of bay . - - - Port Neville, Robber's nob Port Harvey, Tide pole islet Alert Bay, Cormorant island, Yellow blufif- Beaver Harbour, Fort Rupert, Shell islet - Port Alexander, Goletas channel, islet in centre of port ... Bull Harbour, Hope island, North point, Indian island ... Triangle Island, Scott islands, W. point - Cape Scott, summit of cape Cape Caution 48 33 .30 124 27 37 48 19 3(j !l23 42 40 48 17 45 123 32 15 48 25 4!) '123 20 45 48 25 22 ;123 23 2 48 47 48 125 12 52 48 64 41 125 10 54 49 13 40 124 50 7 49 15 22 125 60 17 49 20 60 120 16 40 49 27 31 126 25 27 49 22 7 126 32 32 49 35 31 120 37 32 49 47 20 126 67 6 49 52 46 126 69 65 49 59 65 127 9 30 50 11 21 127 37 68 60 6 31 127 57 20 50 30 127 62 16 50 29 25 128 3 39 49 123 6 26 49 7 4 123 12 I 49 13 1 122 64 20 49 16 18 123 12 49 10 15 123 56 3ti 49 24 39 123 29 20 49 15 43 124 8 6 49 36 29 124 51 18 50 2 42 125 14 38 50 24 15 125 39 50 31 9 126 4 21 50 33 58 126 16 40 60 36 2 126 67 30 60 42 36 127 25 7 60 60 49 127 39 57 50 64 47 127 66 3 60 51 53 129 6 32 50 46 41 128 26 46 61 12 127 57 30 Autlioritlps. PllgO Comm . Wool. 316 D. Pu nd. r, R.N. 317 318 G. H. Richards. 320 „ 322 »» 328 it 336 331 »♦ 343 M »» .347 »» 348 »» 351 355 )» 357 n 360 i» 364 »» 365 371 370 379 380 383 385 889 301 393 398 411 414 41S 416 419 421 422 424 426 426 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POHITIONS. zvii Pogo 360 3G4 371 370 385 389 391 393 398 411 426 l.at. North. I.on«. Wi'nt. 1 1 .Aulhnri'ic-i. I'llKB Virgin Honks o°l 19 128 19 Vancouver. 426 Pearl Rocks Til 24 128 7 ti 426 Smith Inlet,' islot off ontrnnce - .51 18 128 1 tt 420 Rivers Cannl, ontnmco i;i 26 127 53 ft 426 Culvert Island, South point (Jl 2/J 40 128 I 30 1) 426 Fitzhugh Hound, I't. Wdlker - 51 57 127 57 427 Itostoration Cove ... 52 i 30 127 47 tt 427 Ihirke Cannl .J2 26 127 31 tt 428 Fisher Cannl, Fort John 52 7 127 59 11 428 Milbank Sound, Capo Hwaine - 52 13 128 30 ft 428 Milbank Sound, Fort M'Loughlin 52 12 128 24 „ 429 Mussel Cannl, Poison Cove 52 55 12S 10 n 429 Gardner Canal, Pt. Stnniforlli - 53 54 128 44 „ 430 Canal do Principe, Pt. Stephens 63 28 129 48 »» 432 Port Kssington, Pt. Lambert 64 10 20 130 2 30 j» 431 Stephen Island, rocks off N.W. side 64 17 130 4H tf 431 Point Alaskclyno, entrance of Works canal 54 42 l.'fO 21 )i 432 Fort Simpson, anchorage 54 34 130 25 30 .. 433 Observatory Inh t, Salmon Cove 65 15 34 129 62 30 »» 434 Portland C'iinal, head 55 45 130 5 " 434 QiiEEX CiiAUtorrE Islands. Capo St. James 61 57 130 62 Russian Chart. 437 Houston Stewart Channel, Forsyth Pt. - 62 9 131 7 Mr. Inskip, 1855, 437 Cumshewas Harbour, I. North of entr. 63 1 131 22 and 11. B. Co. 438 Skidegato Channel, Bar rock at E. entr. - 63 22 30 131 40 P If 438 Cape Ball .... 53 42 C 131 36 j» 438 Ymbisible or Rose Pt. 64 13 131 22 T» 439 „ extremity of rcii 64 16 131 11 11 43g Virago Sound, Inskip point 64 2 132 16 )» 440 Langara or North Id., North pt. 64 21 133 f* 440 Hippah Island, West point 53 33 !32 57 »» 440 Skidegate Channel, Point Buck Port Kuper, Sansum Island in Mitchell 63 9 132 26 j» 441 Harbour 62 66 31 132 9 40 G-. Moore, R.N. 441 Cape Henry 52 66 131 22 Chart, &c. 442 Tasso Harbour, entrance 62 37 132 2 >» 442 Anthony Islar.d, South point - 62 5 131 17 n 442 COAST OF ALASKA. Capo Fox . . - - 64 45 130 49 Vancouver. 449 Tongass, U.S. post . - - 54 42 130 29 n 449. Cape Northumberland 64 52 31 16 M 450 Behm Canal, Point Sykcs 66 6 131 7 »1 450 „ Now Eddystone Rock 66 29 130 56 l» 459 Revilla-Gigedo Island, Point Whaley, N. point .... 66 66 131 18 t> 451 Port Stewart, Islet on S.W. side 55 38 15 131 47 »» 451 Cape Caamano 65 29 131 54 9 ,, 452 Duke of Clarence Strait, Point Percy 54 65 40 131 31 M 453 „ Cape de Chacon 54 43 131 66 t, 453 Prince Ernest Sound, I'oint le Mesurier - 66 46 132 13 i M 453 „ Point Warde 56 9 132 ' '» 454 Point Highfield 66 34 132 22 »» 4.H Etoline Harbour, Wrangrl, U.S. post 56 31 132 20 'f 4,04 #> y ^Wlh racifiv. XVlll TAin.E OF OEOORArniCAL POSITIONS. I.iil. ;,iin(f. Nuitli. Wi-i. Autliniltic". I I'liiio ]''ciit Siiliinn (II. 1!. ('. |ll>^t) I'liiiil Ildwo I'dil I'ldU'cliiiii, I'liiiil I>;ikri I'orl I!(iiiuliir, Mit c.ll I'oiiit St. Albans (Jii)!!' lliciHiuu (•:>]>,■ \\,\<^ - Ciilto AdiliiiKtmi ('.•ipi' Sim liiiitdldiiK'' - liiisa l.sliiiid, ov Wolf I.'i'ik Sim t'liilos, Doiigliis, or I'oin slir IhIuih Soiilli piiiiit ChriNtian Simnd, Pdil Malimnliiiry ,, Point i;ilis Piinco I'VcMlciick Souml. Point Kinnsniill „ Pt. Canidi n, Pt. MacaHiiry Adniirnlty Island, Point (iiirdnrr „ Point Nipoan ( '.ipo Fansliaw Sti'ldieub Passage, Port IIniip;hton. N. Jit „ Port Sncttisliani, 'I'aco, H.P.C. Lstal lisliniont ,, Point licli'fat Clmthani Stiail, Hood l!av. Point Sanuiul Point Maisd. n lijiin Canal, Point Couviidin - „ .Seduction Point TiiK Sitka Aiichu'elaoo. Capo finimanoy, Woodi^n Islaml Port Conclusion, Ship's Cove - Point Aufjiista . . . Point Adidjdin.s Port Altlioip, entrance Capi' Cross . . . INiillock llarliuuv - - - Capo Edward . . . liay of Islan Is, Poin' Aniilia Krazov Island, Cape Edf-ciitnbo Sitka or Noil'olk Sound, S'ovoArkliangil, Arsenal . . . Point NVodehou.so - Cross Sound, l*t. Winiljk'don Cape SiH'iiter . . . ( 'ajie Fairweather . . . IMount Fairweather - - - liehriug hay, Cape Phipps „ PortMulgrave, Pt. Tuint^r „ Digges Hay, Pt. Eatouelie „ Point Manby Point Kiou . - - - Blount St. Elias, 14,987 feet Pamplona Kock . . . Cap(! Suckling . . . Kaye Wand, Capo Hamond I'rince William Sound, Capo Witsliod „ Cape liinehinbrook ., Port Etches, Phi])ps Pt. - „ I'ort (irivina, S.E. point - „ Snug (jornor Bay Mi H) 'i(> :u QV, L't) 30 .")0 1.) Ad 7 .■)(1 2 .ir, ,08 00 27 r,.; P2 ;U) .'..") 1 .J.I IM ."itl 17 U oO •Al r,G ol •57 o7 1 o7 10 •'>' U .->' 19 DO .')7 .51 oS 21 .'57 28 t) o8 t 30 58 12 (59 2 uf> 10 .lO 1/5 58 3 .30 .58 18 .58 12 57 uG 57 44 57 39 57 17 57 20 57 2 45 50 47 58 19 58 14 58 50 30 58 54 59 33 59 32 30 59 51 59 42 59 54 CO 18 59 3 60 1 59 47 60 29 'iO 10 30 6(' 21 12 60 41 fiO 45 '. 132 4S 133 36 133 48 133 35 134 3 133 45 133 48 133 30 (1 133 29 ir.'i 32 I .'14 11 lei 10 134 22 133 58 131 32 134 5 1 33 25 30 133 20 133 37 134 59 134 VM 134 57 135 4 135 23 134 33 134 33 30 135 1 138 42 136 16 130 28 136 11 136 10 135 46 135 46 30 135 17 40 135 41 130 15 130 35 137 60 137 38 Vancouver. 139 47 139 43 139 32 140 13 141 14 140 .52 142 15 143 54 144 28 145 47 146 27 146 32 145 18 140 35 Russian Chart, 1848. Russian Chart and Vancouver. Sir E. Belcher. Vancouver. »» Sir E. liolehcr. ». .Spanish Chart. //'.; SirE. Bolcher, Vancouver. Sir E. Belcher. Vancouver. 454 454 466 4fi6 457 467 457 457 458 458 459 45!t 459 459 46J 400 400 460 401 462 403 404 464 405 405 467 468 408 408 469 471 471 471 472 472 472 473 470 469 476 470 477 477 478 479 479 480 480 481 482 482 483 483 484 484 TABLE OF OEOUUArilK'AL I'O.siTloNS. MX 1 luouvcr. •154 454 4S5 450 457 467 457 457 >i 458 »• 458 11 4.">!' 45!l ^^ 451) 4()J 4 CO ■mo 4(iU 11 4(U 462 4(i3 »» lOI 4(>l 4(i5 ti 405 Ndl'tll. \\.»t. Aiilliuiili(H. I'll lie 4G7 4 OS M 408 » 408 M 461) 11 471 471 471 472 ssian C'hnrt, 472 HI ft. ssiim Chiirt 472 m\ Vancouver. 473 470 n 409 i» 470 71 470 477 ■ K. Bflehor. 477 ncouvor. 478 479 ■ E. I5olehcr. 479 »i 480 nnish (^hart. 480 Sir E. Belcher. 481 iicouver. 482 )» 482 483 ■ E. Belcher. 483 »> 484 ntoiivcr. 4 84 I'rincu Williiim Soun.l, Vt. ValdcH, I'l l''n'i Ill:llltli; „ I'liiiil Ciilrus^ „ Muiiliiy;!! l^liiiiil, S„n\\\ iidiiit „ I'ort Clmlmurs, |)l:nil1^*lllil ■ ('alia I'liifi't CluHWiH Isliiiwln, South jiroill) - I'lo IsliimU, Simlh bxtniiu) I'ciilll ( inf.l Cuolc Inlet, Ciipi' l''.li/:ilii'th „ l'i)it Chiithiim, Wiituriiif? I'lii'c „ rcinl \U'iiila ot Aliaska, Toualo Bay Wriingoll llarh., S.W. side „ Evdokocir l-lan.ls, S. isld. - St. Stuphcn Island Tschirikotr l.slaiid, X.K. pt. Schuniagiu Islaiuls, Onntja Nortli point - „ Kagay Id. - „ Tiigh - Kiiiiagh Lsland Sannah or Halibut IJ., cent. Ai.iui'iAN Am iin'KLAno. Oiinimak Id., Cldchaldinskoi volcano ,, Capo Mordvinofl' Krenitzin Idands, Ouganiok Island Tigal'^a Island, contro Akoim Islan ', North point Oiinalashka Island, S.W. point - Port lllulnk Oumnak Island, C ipo Sigak .Foann Bogosloll' Island Younaska Island Anionghta Island, contro Scguani Island Anilia I.sland, East Capo Atkha Island, Korovinskaia Ba; „ Nikolskoi Villag- Silkhin Island, contro Adakh Island, North end Kanaga Island, North point » capo m 57 no 49 VaMcoiivi r. 4S5 (id 44 30 117 52 ,, 485 ."))) 10 117 30 4H7 . , 00 10 110 50 ,, IH7 59 55 118 8 l.-^li 50 31 119 .) 4.S8 59 19 11!) 51 4SS 59 11 1 50 ■ ).) ,, 488 - 5!) 9 lot 18 488 59 14 151 8 ,1 48'J . .■)!) 19 30 151 27 )i 489 .')!) 39 151 21 I'll! 00 27 151 31 191 - i 00 42 151 12 191 - 01 4 150 35 • 1 492 - J!) •)0 153 190 58 52 152 51 190 57 34 151 48 i.iniinskv. 496 57 41 151 .).) 494 57 47 152 4 494 57 25 151 57 190 57 17 152 31 (90 50 45 l.)3 33 (I ViiiUMmvtT. 406 57 40 155 WuH^ilicin 501 50 59 3 155 Ol 501 50 15(1 22 (.iohjwnin. 601 50 10 155 22 (Krusmistorn.) 502 55 50 155 Vancouver. 502 55 12 100 50 SarvtschcflT. 502 00 5 too 33 »> 502 54 40 1 59 40 (folownin. 502 51 27 102 50 S.irytscLcll'. 503 54 45 103 59 505 54 51 104 29 506 54 17 104 47 Ivolzobuo. 506 54 5 105 606 54 22 105 40 507 53 13 107 47 I;Utk0. 507 53 22 25 107 32 Kotzcljuc. 507 52 50 108 42 500 53 50 20 107 68 Sarytschoft'. 610 52 40 170 15 Kotzohno. 610 52 33 171 4 Tobonkoff. 511 62 22 172 18 511 52 6 30 172 50 Lutke. 612 52 12 50 174 20 Inghostroni and 513 52 17 18 174 12 Etoiino. 513 52 4 30 170 2 Staniko\vit2 .r.i .V2 .n r, .w i;t 27 ■)•) 22 10 (> ■Vi .5(i Lonit. Long. W. () 17°8 lb "q 17H 40 178 :>■) LouK. F. .17!) ii') 57 17H Hi 17!) « 64 179 20 177 60 170 13 174 173 37 173 20 6.J 14 8 162 .>o 25 163 ■%') 68 161 56 7 100 56 23 7 160 60 62 168 67 30 4 167 57 43 167 68 17 167 68 42 1 167 58 29 168 58 67 168 58 25 160 68 42 162 59 3 n 161 69 50 162 69 50 .34 60 32 165 60 165 60 44 165 61 51 32 166 63 10 164 63 35 162 63 28 30 161 6;< 21 161 63 63 33 160 64 19 161 64 21 163 64 28 42 163 64 31 166 64 42 10 166 6.) 16 40 166 fit 68 49 167 65 24 10 167 65 83 65 38 Authnrttlo. i'ago 03 46 50 7 1 6 41 2 7 61 58 5 47 2 34 6 45 18 66 24 63 10 U 30 3 28 6 19 52 61 30 16 10 8 9 17 50 47 60 67 47 19 40 30 167 59 10 40 168 43 45 Long. W. 161 41 Sarytschefl'. Inghostrom. Etolinu. .Lutkii. Stauikowitih. Von Wrangrl. Chramtschenko. Cook, 1778. Etolinc. Chramtschunko. »» Was.silioif. it Etolino. Chramtschenko. Zagoskin. Cook. Tcli(aikoff. K.dlott. /agoskin. Cook. Tebenkofl'. Cook. Beechiry. Cook. Boechey. Schischmareff. 518 529 630 631 '.^^ hostroni. tk.t. 618 aikuwiti'h. ul8 618 610 619 6ig 620 620 tt 520 1' .r.'o n \Vi!iU(ji'l. (VJO 621 iiimtschonko. 621 )k. 1778. 521 jlino. 622 raintschuiiko. VJl ii o22 iHisiliutt', 622 it 522 )lino. 522 niiufschcnko. 522 :>oiskin. 524 uk. 524 licnkofl'. 624 llctt. 524 ■oskin. 625 uk. 520 520 benkoil'. 526 ok. 527 cchcy. 627 527 ok. 527 echoy. 529 )i 629 » A80 hischmureff. 631 TAULE OF (IKOGUAl'lllCAL ruSlTIUNH. i.iit, Nditli. l.cillK. Wi»t. .\uthoritU'i. Kt. l.iiwri'iici^ 1 liiml, N. point . Ht. Matlhow l.fliiiid (.Matvoi, or Oon.'H Id.) C.ipo I'luiglit, S.K. point „ Ciipc! Uom . ,, MoiJDvi Inland, N. point rribiiilon" I»lnn'l8, St (IcorKo'H Id., V,. pt. „ St. I'iiuI'h Id., Sivoiitchi lalft . ( OAST oi' Asia. Kant Caik of .\Hia St. Liiwicncc Itiiy, Ciipu lo Krlcougoun . „ C'lipi! l'niumfi;onn MutihiKmiiifk lliiy, cnUiincu t'apo Klmliictkiii Ciipo NygtiliyKiiii Capo NciMjtdian . Arakamtcliutchun Island, Capo Kygliyniu Capo Mint ens Ittygran Inland, Cupn I'ostols . Cape Tchaplin Capo TfhoukotHkoi I'oit I'lovidenco, Emma Harliour Capo Spantairt; . • • Capo Attthuun 'I'ransllguration Bay . I'api; licdiriiip; Gulf of Si. <;roix, ( 'alio Miotilikon „ Mount Linlingai, 1,462 foot River Anad i , mouth . Capo St. 'ill idilous Avchangt'l Gabiiol 15ay, N. point of ontr. . Capo Navf rin, 2,512 foot Capo Olut THkoi Capo Crovondkoi Capo Ilpinskoi Verkhotoursky, or Littlo Karughinsky Id. Commander Islands, Bchring Island, Capo Khitroff . . . • „ ,, Capo Youchin ,, ,, W. extremity Mudny or Copper Island, settlement „ „ S.E. extremity . N.W. extromitv KAMCHATKA. Karaghinsky Island, Capo aolcnichtelioff . „ Cape KrachenninikoflF Capo Ilpinskoi Cape Kouzmichtcheff . Karaghinskaia Bay, mouth of the Karaga „ S. point Capo Oukinskoi Capo Ozci-noi . . 03 12 150 50 •iO 18 I'll) ,10 60 II .■)ii ;m 57 5 172 I 172 50 172 52 I) l(>!l 10 10!) 51 66 65 3 i!) 40 or, ;t7 ;io 65 ;)0 30 65 15 65 2 61 55 30 (il 16 61 33 15 61 37 01 21 30 64 16 64 25 55 61 42 30 61 46 61 60 65 30 Oi :;8 40 05 36 30 100 44 171 170 53 30 172 17-' I't K 172 172 17 30 7 16 Scliisohmari'fT. I.iitko, Tchistiakoff. Bocchi.'y. Lutko. 64 50 02 42 02 28 02 16 ' 59 68 50 50 50 48 30 50 37 30 54 50 65 25 55 17 54 47 54 32 54 52 172 172 20 172 21 172 14 173 10 173 7 174 42 175 28 175 25 175 67 178 47 178 17^ liOng. East. 178 40 170 38 170 22 179 4 170 28 106 18 il65 57 165 43 30 Mooro, 1849. Lutko. Charts. Lutke. I I 166 43 165 68 2 165 40 67 108 24 108 25 107 31 60 13 30 68 28 69 48 69 5 59 8 58 55 57 68 57 18 Beenhcy. Charts. Ctolownin. 164 40 163 32 105 57 103 19 162 59 163 2 162 47 163 14 Lutko. XXI Patto 531 531 531 532 533 534 530 536 536 538 53S 538 539 540 540 541 511 511 513 513 543 543 544 544 545 640 540 640 646 647 547 547 547 548 548 648 5J9 540 540 551 662 552 552 662 562 562 653 xxu TABLE OF GEOGEArillCAL POSITIONS. I.Mt. NiiiUi. I.niid. Kiiat. AiitlKiritics, .Pago ii -/^^^ Kivcr Stolbovskiiiiv Cnpc Stolbovoi Ciipu KampiNchntskoi , Klutchiivskoi Volcano, 15,706 feet {'apo Kronotskoi Kronolskoi Volcano, 10,010 feot Ciipo iShipounsky Villeuchinaky IVak, 7,a72 foot . .iviitcha or Awatska Volcano, I '.500 foot . AvATCHA Ray, church at IVUopaulov -ki . Cape Gavareah . . . Capo Lopatlia . . . KuiiiLE Islands. Alaid Island . . . Sunishu Island, centre roronuishir Island, hifjh mountain ,, North point Shirinky Island . . . Alonkonvushy Island, centre Avos Kock . - - - Ounekotan Isliind, Cape Kronitiiin Kharamukot;in Island, ccntro peak Shiabhkotan Island, centre Tshirinkotan Island - - . The Snares . . . Kaukoko Island, peak Illataua I- 567 61 2 150 50 Lutko, 568 52 64 30 158 22 King. 568 58 1 158 15 Charts. 560 57 28 155 45 }) 569 59 20 152 50 tt 560 01 162 30 }f 560 02 102 50 1) 660 61 40 ItIO }t 560 69 29 153 3t 570 59 56 148 30 „ 570 69 20 143 14 ,, 570 60 25 50 13.S 25 50 Tronson, 1H55. 571 66 25 30 143 10 Kruaenstern. , 572 54 29 134 58 Koomin, 572 55 11 137 44 " 1 oU mL TIONS. A»tli(iriti('«. Paito Lutko. 55a ft hiYi I' ;>c,:i .5.03 II fiVI II i>0l II 6ol y liccc'hcy. o57 11 oiJ8 .5(iO 8 )» j(i2 Lutkc. oG2 KrusoiiHteni. 663 )) fj()3 5 }> 003 Oil.oir. 5(i3 KnihoMstoni, 503 ijt)3 » ,'>M )f ;)G4 jf 504 11 5Gt 9i Sfi-i t9 501 it 5()t 50 1 „ 501 Golo«"niii. 505 II 505 11 505 505 If 505 5fiG 5GG II 500 II 500 II 500 II 507 II 5G7 Lutkc. .)GR King. 508 Charts. 509 II 509 u II 509 u II 509 )i 509 >i 509 II 570 u II 570 II 570 'IVonson, ISiJj. 571 Krusonstcin. 572 Kooiiiin, 572 II 572 TABLE OF OEOORArniCAL TOSITIONS. Orcnt Slmntai- Island, Prokolii'fT IslnnJ „ KoaasolV Island Capo Linukiiiskoy Hivcr Tiigura, mouth - Capo Khiibarod' Island or Saohai.in. Capp Eli/al)i'th (';ipi' ]\Iai'ia North Hay, Tailav colony Nailii'jc'ila liay, Capo Il'.rnir Cajio triilovatclii'lV Capo liiiwonsti in Cajio Klokutehoir Cajic AVmst Shoal Toiiit Downs I'oint Capo Delislo Ca])0 KatinanoflT {!apo Hiinnik IMount Tiara CajH! Mollingshanson - Cajm Patienci; liohbon Island, N.E. point IJivor Nt'va, mouth Capo iSoinionoft' Capo Dalryinplo Capo MuloflVky JJernizot Peak, or Jlount .Spanhcr;^ ('ape Soniavint? Capo Tonin ( 'apo Lowonom Capo Aniwa (.'apo Crillon La Dangta-ouse Pock - Kisiri, Pic do Langlo - h'ofunsiri, Capo lliohor Cape Notoro Capo Nossyab Capo Uisappointmont - Gulf or Tautahy, Eh: Cape iSuft'rcin Fish Iliver - - - Low Capo ... lioachy Head liarraconta llarliour, Tnllo I>lanil Ciastrios Pay, Uiioin I'oint .loiiq>ii&re Bay Napoleon Road, 5I';soir Rock (W'l'si point ' of entrance) ... Guerin Gulf, sandy point Hornet Pay, Fox Inland Islet Point - fSiaii-Wiihu Bay, 0!jsorvalion spot on '•hart I'ort Michael Seymour, Observation sjjot at head of port . . - St. Vladimir Bay, low point Shelter Bay tnt. Nortli. .?,5 i .S4 4.'! 54 '4 53 40 53 4° 54 24 30 54 '7 3° 54 '5 45 54 '° '5 53 30 'S 54 J 15 53 4'' o 52 57 30 ' 52 32 30 5' 53 o 5' o . 50 4» ! 50 12 I -5° ^ 49 35 4^ 52 I 48 36 49 '4 40 48 5j 20 48 21 o 47 57 45 I 47 33 o I 47 16 3° ' 50 o 4'- 23 "O 46 2 20 45 54 «5 45 4ii '5 45 II o 45 27 45 45 54 15 45 25 5° 45 40 30 30 o 3° o o o o 47 20 o 47 55 o 48 28 o 48 56 o 49 ' 50 51 28 o 50 54 o 42 37 12 43 9 ° 42 41 o 42 49 o 42 54 '4 43 46 ° 43 53 40 44 28 o I.iinif. Kiist. I ^S 22 '3^ li 'i(> 24 141 22 '42 142 142 142 141 "43 '43 143 '43 '44 '43 '43 '44 '43 '44 '44 '44 '44 '43 142 142 142 142 '43 '43 '43 141 142 141 141 142 141 '37 .\iitlii>riti('«. O 45 o 34 o 3° o 30 30 3° o '5 45 '5 o o o o o o 30 o o 20 56 o '5 o 55 20 •5 Kosniin. Charts. KmseiisleriL Ward, 1855. Krusensleru. Ward, 1859. II Tronsou, 185G. 138 58 o '39 3' o 140 10 o 140 21 o 140 19 o 140 49 30 142 7 o 130 44 to '3' 50 ° 132 56 o '33 5' o '33 50 32 '35 19 ° '35 27 I' 136 2 o Forsyth. •I II.M.S. If'iiiclies- ter, 1855. H.M.S. Uonwt, 1850. Ward, 1859. Tionson, 1S50. XXIIl Pane 572 572 673 673 573 571 671 574 574 574 676 675 675 575 675 675 575 575 675 57G 570 570 570 570 670 57G 576 570 677 677 577 577 678 578 578 579 579 580 681 681 681 681 681 682 683 689 688 689 689 589 690 591 591 XXIV TABLE or GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. North. LonR. Kast. AiithoritioB. Page Syl.ille Bay Pi;)HO Bay - Bullock Bay Luke Point JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO. KlUSlU AM) SiKOK. Cape Chichnkoff, Satano Misaki, extreme ■ KaKOsima, fortress (Ikino Sima, South point Komi Harboxu- Kotsi Inlet - - - ■ Inland Sea. Simonoseki, Moze Saki, South part Ilime Sima, East end Cape lyo, North end - Tomo, harbour Awadji Island, North point, light Hiogo, Kobe Point ( )bsaka, Timposon fort Kala, pier . - - ■ Hino Misaki, extreme Tanabe Buy, Cape T.tnabe S.E, Coabt of Nipon. Oosinia, Harbour of Kii, Pisavama Rock Urakami Harbour, Village point Gulf of Suruga (Simidsu harb.), Miosaki „ Eno-ura Bay, centre Heda Bay, centre Arari Bay, centre Tago Bay, centre » •I It Volcanic Islets, S.E. or Japan. Obsima or Vrios Island, S.E. point Kosn sima, highest part Miaki sima, highest part Mikura Island, highest part Redfield Rocks, southci-u Broughton Rock, centre Fatsizio Island, centre Aoga sima, eastern summit Koning Willom III. Island, centre La Bayonnaise Island Smith Island Ponatidin Island St. Peter's or Black Rock Capo Idsu, S.E. extreme Rock Island, light on centre 44 4.^ 45 ''36 12 30 44 46 15 136 27 15 45 * o 136 44 c 45 «9 30 '37 »o '5 30 59 o 130 44 30 31 37 o ii30 38 o 32 44 o :i32 37 o 33 13 o 133 '9 o 33 30 J '33 35 o 33 58 33 45 34 10 34 23 34 37 34 40 34 40 34 '9 33 51 33 40 33 29 8 '35 48 55 130 58 '4 «3' 42 '3^ 57 '33 14 '35 '35 '5 '35 *8 '35 4 '35 6 '35 20 33 33 37 35 ° 5' 35 3 o 34 58 II 34 50 o 34 47 3 34 39 30 34 '3 15 34 5 o 33 52 o 33 56 50 33 39 o 33 6 o 3» 37 30 3' 52 48 o 8 Ii35 55 " i'38 3' 7 138 53 o 1138 46 o 1 1 38 46 o ■'38 44 54 32 3' 30 29 29 47 4' o o o 34 35 o I 34 34 20 i 39 i8 39 8 39 3' 39 34 38 48 39 '7 45 39 48 o 39 47 30 39 58 46 39 59 20 39 50 o 40 6 o 40 22 30 38 5» o 38 57 'o Tronson, 1850. Jiipnnoso chart. Ward. Japanese chart. Ward, 18GI. Russian frigate Diaim, 1863-55, Ward, 1860. 1m (Jraviere Houekgoest. II.M.S. Tribune. Ponafidin. U.S. Expedition American chart, 1854. 691 692 602 692 598 699 600 600 601 604 606 608 608 610 612 611 614 617 618 619 020 623 624 624 624 624 626 620 627 627 627 628 628 628 629 629 630 630 630 633 633 ■s. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXV Authorities. i Pogc onson, 185G. pnnoso chart. ard. paneso chart. iird, 180 1. iRsian frigate Diaiw, 1863-55, 'ard, 1860. I (Jraviere tlouckgoest. .M.S. Tribune. anafidin. .8. Expedition nicrican chart, L854. 598 699 600 600 601 604 606 608 608 610 612 611 611 617 618 633 633 Lilt. Nortli. Simoda Harbour, centre island - Yodo Bay (Capo Sagaini), cxtronio Yokohama, western pier Stka.it of Tsuoar, Etc. Cape Grcig, small rock off South side TatHtipi saki, North side Toriwi saki, centre of low island off lied Cliff Point, extreme Cape Nambu, small islet on Wtst side Cape Mat sumac, islet off - Ilakodadi Harbour, Putnmcc to Kamida Creek . . . . Island of Yeso. Cape Brouuhton, East point Cape Spanberg . . . TortAtkis . - - - Buy of Good Hope, peaked liill Cape Eroen or Evosn . . . Volcano Bay, Endnrmo Harbour, entrance Cape Nadiejeda . . . Matsumao, or Matsmai, city Cape Sineko . . . Capo Oote Nizavou - - . Cape Kutusoff . . - Cape Novosilzov . . . Capo Malaspina . . . Ikloimt or Peak Pallas Cape Schischkoff . . . Bisiri Island, or Pic do Langlo - llefunsiri Island, Capo Guibort - Cape Romanzoff . . . West Coast or Nipox. Bittern Rocks, S.W. rock Tat)u sima. East extreme Awa sima, N.E. extreme Sado Island, Y'a saki Niegata, governor's houso Yutsi sima Nanao, entrance Astrolabe Rock Capo Noto Mikuni Roada Tsuruga Bay, entrance Oki Islands, North point Mino sima, centre C'ape Louisa Richards Island Kiusiu. Wilson Island, summit North Pacific. 34 39 49 35 8 o 35 26 II 4' 4' 4' 5 39 16 17 33 34 41 28 7 41 i5 24 4« 14 54 4> 47 8 43 V^S \ +3 I '^' 41 4« 4' I 4' 42 42 43 43 44 44 45 45 45 38 30 35 o 20 o 59 33 15 29 39 30 18 10 38 o •4 30 4* 5' 17 45 »5 50 40 31 39 o .. " 53 38 29 36 38 '9 55 37 58 5' 37 50 30 2 35 37 37 37 >8 36 12 35 39 36 30 34 48 34 40 34 3» 33 54 30 I.ont;. KilHt. '38 57 30 139 42 o "39 39 2° 140 2C 19 140 22 37 140 56 36 141 9 O 141 28 32 140 7 20 "4° 45 34 146 7 30 145 o o 145 30 ° 144 12 O 142 55 o 140 50 32 141 9 30 140 28 o 139 54 >5 139 46 o 139 46 o 140 25 30 141 18 30 141 54 o '4' 37 o 141 30 20 141 o o 141 34 20 •39 3' ° '39 34 17 '39 '6 7 ■38 27 39 9 ■36 55 i*"' 58 '36 54 '37 i» 36 8 136 4 '33 »3 131 9 '3' 36 131 18 Authorities. ! PiiRc i 130 24 30 American chart. Ward, 1801. Richards, 1855. Bruiij;hton. Japanese chart. Broughton. Ivikord. Bi'oiighton. Krusenstem. Von Siebold. Krusenstem. Richards, 1855. Ward, 1869. Richards, 1855, Gouldsborough. Richards, 1866. Gouldsborough. Richards, 1865. Gouldsborough. Richards, 1856. Ward, 1801. 034 6t0 041 616 616 646 616 017 618 648 053 054 054 054 054 655 055 056 656 050 650 050 656 656 057 657 657 057 058 658 053 068 600 661 601 661 061 062 663 604 604 664 064 666 ■x-avi TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. Ll»t. North. Author! tioH. Page Swnin Reef ... O 48 130 15 Ward, 18G1. 667 Yobiiko, I f arbour nntranco n 33 119 49 Japanese MS. 608 Ilirado or Firando, Hiirho'.ir entrance ^^^ 23 129 28 669 Kock in North part of Obroo Channel, summit .... ^■^ ji 30 129 26 II Richards, 1855. 668 Yonoi sima, South side of - ^^ 59 44 129 19 24 670 Hardy Harbour (Goto islands), Observation Islet .... ^^ 49 ° 128 56 39 tt 671 Tamn no ura, entrance of harbour ^i 43 30 128 38 Ward, 1861. 672 Cape Goto, extreme . . - ^i 39 30 >»8 35 30 »» 672 Nagasaki, Minago Point ^^ 44 ^8 129 5' 5* 677 Pallas Kecks, South rock ii 14 17 128 12 30 Richards, 18o5. 683 Mcac siraa (Kusa-saki) Ears peak ^2 3 128 25 yt 682 Nadiejda RocV., P. D. ^t 48 129 41 French chart Retribution Rocks, centre 3« 20 120 46 20 H.M.S. Retribu- tion, 1858. 682 TTdni sima, high peak ... 3« 12 129 29 Froncli chart, 184C, corrected. 682 m .^ s. ( xxvii ) AuthoriticB. Page ird, 18G1. 667 )ane8e MS. 608 »> 669 hard", 18i>5. 668 » 670 if 671 rd, 1861. 672 »» 672 677 hards, 18u5. 68S jj 682 nch chart. I.S. Jietribu- 682 m, 18ij8. ncli chart, 682 4C, corrected. SECTION III.-THE ISLANDS. Uiscovcrcr. I,at. Nurtli. I.onff. West. Aulhoi'ilic^, I'.iRO ISLANDS BKTWEEN THK JlUUATOIi AND LAT. 10" NOliTH. Malpelo Island 81 36 Al.lham. liiviideiieynv Shoal - llivaduneyra, 1842 4 "5 ° 85 10 Rivadcncyra. (!oco8 iHland, Chatham Bay Obs. S 32 57 8(S 58 22 Sir E. Belcher. Wulker lalunda Walker, 1814 3 34 ° '49 "5 Walker. ChristmaH Isliind, S.E. point - Cook, 1777 ' 40 34 '57 «3 53 Scott, Washington Island - Fanning, 1708 4 4' 35 160 15 37 Wilkes. Fanning Isliid, EngUih Har- liour, flashing liglit i» 3 53 '58 »3 Richards. Palmyra Island Sawlo, 1802 5 50 162 23 Sawlo. Sainarang Isles, West Islot Scott, 1840 4 55 9 162 22 20 Scott. Kingman Roef Kingman 6 27 30 162 21 moan. 1 )iana Shoal English 8 40 '57 10 English. Hakor Island Foster 12 30 176 22 Reeves. 1 lowland or Holland Island Belcher, 1842 50 '76 35 mean. Gilbert AKCHn>Ki.Aoo. Lat. S. Long. E. Arurai, Aroro, or Ilurd Island The Eli:aheth, \»10 2 40 54 '74 40 49 Diitaillis. Nukunau or Byron Island Byron, 1765 I 25 176 40 Gulick. Oiioatoa or Rotcher Island Clerk, 1827 I 50 '75 39 »> I'cru or Maria Island J) 1 20 176 n »> Tamana Island it 2 25 176 7 »» Taputoouea, Bishop, or Drum- Bishop, 1789 I 20 '74 57 Wilkes. mond Island Nanouti or Sydenham Island - )> 36 Lat N. '74 »4 » Aranuka or Hendervillo Island Marshall, 1788 II '73 39 20 )) Kuria or Woodle Island i> 14 30 '73 27 it Apamama or Hop])cr Island »» 27 21 '73 57 30 it JNlniana or Uall Island ThoAYi.-nAe^/j, 1809'r 56 45 '73 4 '5 lluJson. Tarawa or Knoy Island Marshall, 1788 I 29 '73 5 Wilkos. Slaraki or Matthew Island fl 200 '73 »5 30 ,, Apiang or Charlotte Island J> I 52 '73 i »» Taritari or Touching Island S. point 380 172 48 »> Makin or Pitt Island, N. point 3 20 43 '7* 57 II Maiiskall Archipjjlaoo. Mill or Mulgiave Islands, anch. Marshall, 1788 6 '4 37 '71 56 6 Dutaillis. Majiiro or Arrowsmith Islandu If 7 5 '7' J3 54 Chramtschonko. Arhno or Daniel Island, E. pt. „ 7 17 172 7 Wilkes. Pedder Island, W. point ,1 7 10 171 46 1, Aur or Ibbetson Islands, anch. 8 18 42 171 10 7 Kotzebue. Maloelab or Calvert Islands, Kaven Ipland »» 8 54 21 170 49 a 1) Erikub or Bisht ,> ^unction Id., S. point - . - >> 960 170 4 )i (iill (it»r> (11)7 (ii)7 701 (199 7:1 7O1; 70:> 7o;i 703 705 710 710 711 711 711 711 713 713 7U 7U 715 715 710 716 717 717 720 721 721 721 722 722 Ml l tf i' I ' j- iii^BP( i *!^' W »' TABLE OF OEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. 1 Discovcfer. I.nt. North. l.onft. EllHt. Authorities. Pane Wotjo or Romniizoff Islimls, o « 1 '/ Christmas Harbour Marshall, 1788 9 28 9 170 16 5 Kotzobue. 723 Likiob or Count Huiduu ItilanJs, N.W.; point Kotzebuo, 1817 lo 3 40 169 I 57 H 724 Jonio or 8tfiep-to Island Bishop 9 58 o '69 45 ti 724 Mojit or New Year Island Kotzebue, 1817 10 8 17 '7° 55 34 ,$ 724 Ail'iik or Tindal and Watts Id., Capeniur Island - Marshall, 1788 10 17 25 '69 59 10 It 724 Taka or Souworoff' Island >l II 11 20 169 jO 37 II 725 Hikar or Dawson Island |> II 48 170 7 Marshall. 725 Kongelab, Bigini, or Poscadorc Islands - Wallis, 1767 ? II 19 21 167 24 ?7 Hudson. 726 Kon^jrorik or Rimski-KorsiikoflF Islands • - - Kotzebuo, 1817 II 26 45 167 14 20 II 727 Bikini, or Eschscholtz Islands - 1825 II 40 166 24 25 Kotzebuo. 727 Wottho or Shanz Islands Shanz, 1835 10 5 166 4 Shanz. 728 Kwajalein or Catharine Islands The Ocean, 1804 9 14 167 1 728 ITjae or Lydia Islands »» 940 '65 58 729 Namo or 5largarotta Islands - »i 8 55 48 •67 34 729 I> 7 4 40 167 56 30 f> 751 Ngatik or Valicntcs Islands, Kast extreme Tompson, 1773 5 47 3° »57 3^ »> 752 Nukuor or Monteverde Islands, East point Monteverde, 1806 3 5' tSS 54 D'Urville. 752 Greenwich or Constantin Id. - Greenuieh, 1826 I 4 •54 47 55 Montravel. 753 Dt'capolis Reef Decapolia, 1869 32 15* 5< Decnpolia. 753 Oraluk or Bordelaisc Island - Saliz, 1826 7 39 ° '55 5 Saliz. 753 Dunkin Island {'A - Losiip or D'Urvilio Island Dunkin, 1824 n 1 8 50 '54 '° Dunkin. 751 Duperrey, 1824 7 3 4°' 152 42 20 Duperrey. 755 Mortlock Isk'S, Lukunor, Port 1 ChaniisHU Moillock, 1793 5 ^9 20 '53 5S Lutke. 7oG ^s. TABLE OF GEOGEAPIIICAL TOSITIONS. XXIX Autburitics. PaKe Kotzcbue. 723 724 724 724 Marshull. 724 725 725 Hudson, 726 »» Kot/.ebuo. ShiiiU!. Brown. Dunn, &c. 727 727 728 72« 729 721) 729 729 Chramtschenko. 730 Dennet. - -nd (f) llagouieiHtor. Lulke. 730 731 731 731 732 Kcwlcy. 733 Duporrey. 739 » 742 »i 742 Reynolds. 747 Lutko. 761 t> 751 i> 752 D'Urville. Montmvel. Decapolis, 8aliz. Dunkin. Dupcj-rey. 753 753 753 763 751 755 Lutke. 7oG DincoTercr. I.at. North. I.onir. East. Authorities. I'.ige Xainoluk Oroup, N.W. Isle - Lutko 6 66 II 16°3 13 30 liUtke. 757 Tiuk or Hogoleu Islands, Pise Inland ... Duporrcy, 1824 7 42 30 151 49 15 Duperrey, 768 „ Givry Ishnd Tsis Id., N W. pt. f) 7 9 151 61 46 I* 768 ■I 7 18 26 161 48 29 D'UrviUo. 758 Hull liilands, Mourileu Island - Hnll 8 47 30 152 20 Lutke. 758 Lutke or East Faiu luland - Lutko 8 33 20 151 26 II 759 Namonuito Group, Piserarrld.| Ibargoitia, 1801 8 34 20 152 32 30 It 760 Taraatam or Los Martiros IdH. i Duporroy, 1824 7 34 149 29 DupertBy. 760 Poloat or Endorby Ida., Alet; Inland - • -, Ronnock, 1826 7 19 26 149 17 Froycinct. 761 Suk or Ibargoitia Island Ibargoitia, 1799 6 35 118 22 Cheyne. 761 I'ikelot or Coquille Islet Duperrey, 1824 8 12 147 41 30 Duperrey, 762 West Faiu Islet . -| Ton-es 8 7 30 146 47 30 «i 762 Sntawal or Tucker laland -: Wilson, 1793 7 22 147 6 Duperrey, 762 Lituiotrek or Swede Islands II 7 32 146 30 Lutke. 762 „ Klato Island f> 7 30 146 15 » 762 Olimarao Itdes Lutke, 1828 7 43 30 146 56 46 M 763 Ifalik or Wilson Islands .! Wilson, 1793 7 15 144 30 II 763 Wolea Group, N. extremity - „ 7 22 6 143 57 53 II 764 „ Eaour Island, E. extreme ■ „ 7 20 7 143 63 )l 765 Foraulep Island . - Lutke, 1828 8 36 144 36 II 766 Kauripik or Kama Islands - Hunter, 1791 6 40 143 10 II 766 Sorol or Philip Islands }> 8 6 140 62 II 766 I-'iiis or Tromolin Island Tromolin, 1828 9 47 140 38 II 766 L'lithi or Mackenzie Ids., Egoi, East extreme 11 10 7 63 139 54 68 Wilkes. 766 „ Mogmog Island >> 10 6 139 45 30 Lutko. 767 Yap or Eap oi' Unawb Island, North point Hunter, 1791 9 37 25 138 7 60 D'Urville, 767 Hunter Reef ^t 9 57 30 138 13 Hunter. 769 NkoU or Matelotas Islands, N. extremity - ., Villalobos, 1545 8 35 137 40 Cheyno. 769 Palau or Polew Islands, Ky- anglo Isles »j 8 8 134 17 Douglas. 772 Babelthuap Idand, E. exlr. - 7 41 134 40 Macluer, &c. 773 Orolong Island, Errakong Harbour 7 11 134 21 If 776 Pelelow Island, S. point 7 2 133 18 8 D'Urville. 775 Angaur or Niaur Island, S. W. point ... 6 53 55 134 5 24 t» 775 St. David or B'reewill Ids. -' Wancicl;, 1761 57 134 21 Williams 781 Helen Reef, N.N.E. end -i Seton, 1794 3 131 ,52 Pedursen. 782 Mariere or Warren Hastings I.j Hutchinson, 1761 4 19 30 132 28 30 McCloUan. 783 Anna or Current Island - irunvick, \iiS\ 4 39 132 4 783 Sansoral or St. Andrew Islands ; I'adilla 5 20 132 20 Maury. 784 Tobi or Lord North Island Lord North, 1781 3 8 131 8 784 ISLANDS BETWEEN LATI- TUDES 10° & 20= N. Long. W. Clipperton Island, rock . Clippcrton, 1705 10 17 109 10 Sir E. Belcher. 785 Passion Island or Uock Dubocayo 17 11 106 21 Woolridge, 786 Rrvilla Giobdo IsLANns: — Socorro or S. Tomas, Biaith- waito 15 ly, landing place - 18 43 14 lie 51 15 Sir E. Belcher, i 787 XXX TABLE OF GEOORArniCAL iOSITIONS. DiHcovercr. Lilt. Nurth. Wis u Autlioritlct. I'iige St. Benddicto or Nubladu Id., 1 * . u North end Villalobos, 1642 19 22 40 110 44 Colnctt. 788 Roca I'artida 10 4 30 112 4 788 Sunta Kosa or Clarion Island, >> Sulphur Bay 18 20 36 114 40 19 Sir L;. Belcher. 789 Johnston Islands, W. islet Johnston, 1807 16 44 48 169 39 Long. 168 60 35 E. 15 Brooke. 790 Smyth Island, N.W. extreme - Smyth, 1807 14 41 30 791 AVakes Island Wake, 179G 19 10 64 166 31 30 Wilkes. 792 Waiuana or Laduonb Ids. : — Guam or Guauan Island, Umata Bay, church 13 17 44 144 39 D'UrviUc. 799 Toint Facpi 13 19 6u 144 37 30 Freycinet. 799 Port San Luis d'Apra, Fort Santa Cruz 13 25 46 144 39 27 800 Port Tarofofo 13 18 9 144 46 14 Sanchez. 803 Ahavan Point 13 14 144 43 40 Freycinet. 8U3 Siiiitfi Uosa Shoal (p. d.) 12 30 144 15 Charts. 798 Kuta Island 14 9 115 16 30 Freycinet and 803 Aguijan Island, centre It 53 44 145 30 1 Molaspica. 804 Tinian Island, Anson's Road, village ... 15 69 20 145 36 19 806 Saipan Island, Magicionne Bay 16 8 30 145 44 Vansiltart. 807 Farallon de Medinilla 16 69 20 146 Sanchez. 810 Anataxan Island, centre 18 20 145 39 Freycinet, &c. 811 Sariguan I.slnnd 16 41 145 47 Sanchez. 811 Farallon de Torres or Zulundia Rocks ... Foster, &c. 16 61 145 50 Foster. 811 Guguan Island 17 16 60 145 50 15 Freycinet. 812 Alainagan or Alamaguan Id. - 17 34 145 51 813 Pagan Island, N.E. end 18 7 146 52 Sanchez, 813 Agrigan Island, S.E. pt. 18 46 20 145 41 45 Wilkes. 814 Asuncion Island, crater 19 45 145 30 Sanchez. 815 Urracas Islands 20 6 36 145 20 Freycinet. 815 Guy Rock, or Farallon do Pa- jaros ... Douglas 20 30 145 8 40 San.hez. 815 Britomart Reef Bartlott, 18C0 19 18 141 34 Bartlett. 816 Lindsay Island, p. d. Lindsay 19 20 141 8 30 Lindsay. Wadsworth. 816 Florence Shoal Wudsworth 18 6 143 18 810 SANDWICH ISLANDS, ■ ETC. Hawaii, Kapoho Point Nanavalio ... Hilo, Waiakea, or Byron's Bay, 19 34 19 38 Long. 154 64 154 67 w. 30 U.S. Ex. Exptdn. 828 828 Cocoa Nut Island, lijht • 19 43 61 155 3 IMaldnn. 829 Laupahoi ... ]\Iauiia Kea Volcano 19 54 19 54 155 6 155 28 U.S. Ex. Expedn. 833 827 833 llpolu Point 20 19 30 155 58 30 If Kiwaihao Bay, liffht 20 2 20 155 55 30 »i 835 JIauna Huahali 19 44 155 65 n 827 836 Kailau or Kairua Bay, N.W. pt. 19 39 156 6 30 >» Kealakokua Bay .Kainehameha's ?> Tomb 19 28 30 156 837 „ Cook's monument . Manna Loa Volcano, Pendulum 19 28 155 55 5 II Thompson, 1537. 837 Poak - South Point IQ 28 18 51 loo 35 155 30 U.S. Ex. Expodn. 827 HO TABLE OF OEOOEArniCAL TOSITIONS. XXXI Aiitlioritica. rugu Colnctt. 7H8 )> 78,S Sir L;. Bolchor. 78!) Urooke. 790 11 791 Wilkes. lOi D'Urvillc. 799 Froycinot. 799 t* 800 Sanchez. 8oa Froycinet. 8U3 Utiurta. 798 L' reycinct and 803 Maluspira. 801 »f 805 VanHiltart. 807 Sanchez. 81U Froycinot, &c. 811 Siinchcz. 811 b'ostor. 811 Freycinct. 812 813 Sanchez, 813 \Vilk.s. 8U Sanchez. 81d t'leycinct. 81u San.hez. 815 Bartlett. 810 Lindsay. 810 Wadsworth. 810 828 U.S. Ex. Expcdn. 828 yfaldon. 829 U.S. Ex. Expedn. 833 tt 827 >* 833 »i 835 tt 827 7t 830 837 rhompson, 1537. 837 U.S. Ex. ExpodnJ 827 AO Ulncovcrcr. I,nt. North. LoiiR. West. Authorities. Pi>(f« ICilaiion Volcano JIaii, liana Point - „ ISIaiina Haloakala „ ^Vail^ku (lathmus), N side „ Lahaina, liffhl „ Kamaloa Hay, N.W. pt Jlolokini Inland Kahulaui, S.E. point „ Koalaikahiki, or W. point T.anni Island, Capo Kamniki „ Point Kaena Molokai, Halawa, or K. point „ Kalaan, or W. point Oahu, Capo Makapua „ Waimea Bay - „ Kaena Point „ Honolulu, Wharf Kavai or Atooi, Kaloa point - „ Waimea Bay „ Point Mana „ Hanalae, village Niihau or Oneeow, Kawaihoa point - „ Oku Point Lchua Island or Oreehoua Id. - Kaula or Tahoora Island Nihoa or Bird Inland Islands and Skoals, Nohtii OP Lat. 20° N. Los AlijoB Rocks Otiadalupo Island, AVcst islet - Keed Rocks Necker Island, centre Arabia Shoal French Frigates Shoal, islet - Brooks Shoal, 11 fathoms Gardner Island Maro Reef Laysan or Moller Island Lisiansky Island Pearl and Hermes Reef, N.E. extreme ... Ocean or Cur6 Island, Sand Id. Brooks or Midway Islands, Welles Harbonr - „ Middlebrooks Island Krusenstem's Rock - Patrocinio or Bycrs Island (p.d.) Marshall (or Jurdines) Islands - Margaret (or Malabrigos) Ids. - Grampus Ids. (p. d.) Arzobispo (or Benin) Islands „ Parry Group, North rock „ Kater Island, North rock Douglas, 1789 Marquina, 1791 Roed, 1850 La Perouso Arabia LaPerouse, 1780 Brooks, 1859 Allen, 1820 Allen, 1820 American Lisiansky, 1805 Wreeh, 1822 American Brooks, 1859 Brooks, 1859 Lisiansky, 1805 Zipiani, 1799 Marshall, 1788 Magee, 1773 Meares, 1788 Coffin, 1824 19 25 ,165 21 20 40 1150 3 20 42 1150 18 20 55 20 53 20 45 20 37 20 33 20 31 30 20 42 20 67 21 9 21 21 20 21 39 21 30 21 18 21 48 21 50 22 4 22 14 150 28 160 35 150 31 150 30 160 32 21 45 22 22 2 ^1 39 23 5 24 67 25 29 10 60 37 35 23 35 29 30 23 40 23 52 25 8 26 31 25 47 17 20 27 50 30 28 4 46 28 14 28 13 30 22 15 28 9 21 40 27 20 25 40 27 45 27 31 150 43 150 57 157 7 150 45 157 18 157 39 168 4 158 15 157 55 169 28 30 159 43 159 53 30 159 31 100 17 ICO 48 30 100 9 100 35 101 45 115 45 20 118 IK 30 137 30 104 40 165 50 100 10 10 100 40 108 I 30 170 37 30 171 62 47 173 67 175 40 178 27 45 177 23 15 177 18 20 175 37 Long. E. 175 48 151 36 145 46 140 40 142 7 142 12 U.S. Ex. Expcdn, Rnpcr. U.S. Ex. Expcdn Sir E. Belcher. U.S. Ex. Expedn Du Petit Thouars Vancouver. Rudfield. Brooke. Arabia. Brooke. Brooks. Stan iko witch, Brooke. >> Brooks. Reynolds. Lisiansky, Zipiani (P) Marshall. Magee, Becchey, 827 810 841 841 841 843 844 844 844 844 844 845 845 81'J 813 8l8 819 8.32 8.) 3 8,J4 8.H 8."i5 H.)5 H.)0 850 850 858 858 859 800 801 801 802 803 803 804 805 800 808 809 870 874 874 877 877 877 880 880 xxy.i TABLE OF OEOORArniCAL POSITIONS. « Diacoverer. 1.nt. North. ICiiitl. Authnritlcn. 1 •at;e Arzoliispo iHlands, Peul Tslnnd, . '< ' 8.W. islot 27 2 142 10 Boechcy. 88 1 „ Tort Lloyd, Ten-Fm. Hole 27 ') 33 142 11 31 1 ■1 882 „ Bailoy Iiilaud, South islet P - 28 30 142 13 tf 8H1 Volcano Islands, San AuRUBtino Torres, 1(513 21 U 141 20 Kruspnstern. 8S7 II Sulphur iHliind - 24 48 141 13 King. 887 „ 8. Alessandro or North Island - 26 14 141 11 i> 887 Snn Mateo, Moor Island, or Sylph Rock KoHnrio or Dis ippointment Id. - 31 27 145 40 1^ Nautilus, 1801 27 13 140 46 Qiiin. 888 Linda or Euphrosyne Uook Linda, 18i3l 21 43 30 140 50 Linda, &c. 888 Douglas Reef or Parece Vela - Douglas 20 30 136 10 moan. 888 Nautilus Rocks, or Vela Bishop, 1798 26 20 131 15 Bishop. 88t) Rasa Inland 1807 24 26 40 131 1 60 mean. 890 Kendrick Island Kendrick 24 35 134 Kondriik. 890 Borod'.no Isles Ponafidin, 1820 26 56 131 16 Ponnfidiu. 800 Yakuno sima, Mount Motomi - 30 21 i;^'^ 29 Cocillo. 891 Soriphos Rock Yorabu sima, highest peak 30 44 130 46 •1 891 30 27 130 11 »i 891 Take sima, centre 30 48 (• 130 24 »i 801 Iwoga sima, highest peak 30 42 U 130 17 »t 891 Fowhattan Reef Pou'hattan 30 41 130 19 Powhaitan, 1860. C91 Trio Rocks, centre rock 30 45 130 6 French chart, 1846 891 Kuro sima, centre 30 60 I'iO 56 »» 892 Ingersoll Rocks, highest 30 51 120 26 » 892 LiNSCHOTEM Islands. Blake Reef, highest rock 30 6 130 3 Cccille. 892 Kutsino sima, summit 29 59 129 65 »» 892 Kohebi sima 29 63 129 36 i> 892 Hebi sima, peak 29 65 129 32 ti 892 Naka sima, {>eak 29 53 129 60 >i 893 Fira sima . - - 29 41 129 31 »» 893 Suwa sima . - - 29 38 129 42 ft 893 Akuisi sima 29 27 y29 35 *> 893 8ima-go Islands, highest 29 13 129 19 >» 893 Tokara sima 29 8 '29 11 »» 893 Yoko sima, summit • 28 49 128 59 »» 893 The Lw-ohu ob Loo-ohoo Islands. Sandon Rocks Viieount Sandon, 28 44 129 38 893 Oho eima, Harbour or Bunga- 1860 low Island, North end 28 31 40 129 40 12 U.S. chart. 893 „ South end 2ft 6 30 129 22 >i 894 Tok Bima or Crown Island Broughton, 1797 27 44 128 59 ff 894 Yerrabu sima or Wukido -r 27 14 128 33 Collinson. 894 Great Lu-chu, Napha Kiang bridge - „ Deep Bay - 26 12 30 127 41 30 Boechey. 895 26 35 35 127 69 42 U.S. Vandalia. 898 Mbiaco-sima Ibla?(ds. Tai-pin-san, Port Hadding ton, S.W. point - 24 43 35 125 17 49 Sir E. Belcher. 903 Hoa-pin-BU, North side Raleigh Rock 25 47 7 123 30 30 )f 904 '. HM8 Raleigh, 183 • 25 67 124 2 » 904 Recruit Island - Lyall, 1861 26 67 40 124 43 mean. 904 3. Authnritlcn. l'ai;e Doeclicy. 881 ■1 882 8K1 KruHcnatorn. 8S7 Kintf. 887 II 8S7 (f) Qiiin, 888 Linila, &c. 888 moan. 8S8 Bishop. 88t) moan. 890 Koiidriik. 81)0 Ponnfidiii. 8U() Cocillo. 8i»l II 891 II 891 II 801 II 801 Poirhattan, 18C0. CO I French chart, 1846 801 11 802 II 802 Cocille. U.S. chart. Collinson. Boechey. U.S. Vandalitt. Sir E. Belcher. mean. 802 802 802 802 893 803 803 803 893 803 803 803 803 891 804 804 895 898 903 904 904 904 THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN. CILVrTER I. THE COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. The country avIioso southern coast i.s doscribod in this clmptor, induu.^j that long, narrow, and irregular tract which form.s tho junction Lrtwcen tho northern nml southern continents of America. Up to a recent porioil it was, politically and socially, most unimportant, and our knowlodgo of it was almost inferior to that acquired by the early Spanish possessors. But sinco tho dovolopiueut of tho resources and colonization of North-west America, consequent chiefly on tho gold discoveries, it has rapidly drawn tho attention of all interested in shortening tho highways of commerce, to tho facility it affords for an inter-oceanic transit. Tho great success and surpassing utility ofthnranama Railroad, completed January 27th, ISoS, has increased tho desiro that a ship canal should bo cut through tho isthmus, and this grand project is now receiving most earnest consideration. Tho eastern portion of tho groat isthmus, that of Panama and Darion, belongs to tho republic of Now Granada, which has tho exdusice privilege of this important transit. On tho western boundary of this state is tho re- public or state of Costa Rica, one of tho former confederation of republics of Central America. In a political sense, tho divisions between tho states on either sido of this confederation arc, to tho South, tho River Escudo do Veragua, which falls into tho Caribbean Sea, opposite tho island of tho same name, separating it from tho republic of New Granada, lat. 9" N., long. 81' 20' W. ; and on tho N.W. from that of Mexico by tho Rio Sintalapa, falling into tho Pacific in long. 93° 20' W. This territory, including an area of 105,054 square miles, is now divided into tho five republican states of Guatemala, Ilonduras, Nicaragua, San North racilic. u f iT 3 COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. f^alviulor, ami (A)8ta Rica. TIio rcdernl District, which up to 1830 wu8 common to tliem, wu8 u circlo round the capital, Sun Salvador, 20 milos in diameter, witli a further cxtonMion of 10 miles to tho South, so as to include its port, tho roadstead of Libortad, on tho PacifK'. Tho N.E. coastof tho isthmus, tluit is, tho West India part, was discovorod by Columbus in 150'_'. The greater portion of it M-as usurped by tho Spaniards by 1521, and it was erected into a captain-gonoralship by tho Emperor Charles V. in 1527. From tho fact of its being only a minor state, its expenditure was on a less niagnilicont scale, and consequently compara- tive benefit accrued to the people. On tho overthrow of the Spanish power, Guatemala bocamo indopondont in 1821, and was subsequently incorporated with Mexico ; but when Iturbido fell, it separated, and declared its inde- pendence on July 1st, 1823, adopting a constitution drawn up for it by Mr. Livingston, tho U. S. statesman. Affairs were, liowover, far from settled, and much internal commotion continued ; but all Spanish influence was thrown over at Omoa, September 12th, 1832. Notwithstanding its very great geographical importance, tho resources of the countiy have hitherto been very imperfectly developed.*' Muuntains. — In describing tlio general physical features of tho country, these naturally become tho first in order, influencing as they do the rest of its surfaco. The elevated range (a continuance of the Andes) in Central America has no determined name, and is in many parts without a visible existence. It commences in Costa Rica, at a distance from the Pacific of ibout one-fourth of the whole bre Uh of the isthmus, and, at the beginning/ of this course, * TliG iirincipal iiuthoritica for uii^ :rriptiou of Contral America aro wio woi-ks of I'lidro Thomas Gago, an English friar, 1032, an cxcellunt and interesting work ; that of Don Domingo Juarros, a native of Guatemala, in 1780, which lias been translated by Lieutenant Bailey, U.M., 18'2o ; Thomson's Visit to Guatemala in 182 J, gives an excellent account of much of tho intcriov; Kciso naar Ouatcmaln. 1829, by J. Hacfkons, and a work by the same author, Centraal Amerika, 1832, both MciA : Ncmitives, kc, by Mr. Roberts, chiefly on tho Atlantic side; a paper in the G. jgiiiphirn, Journal, vol. vi., 1836, on Costan'ica, by Colonel Don JuanGalindo (an Englishman' ; P'.ocionario do Inslndias Occidentales, by Col. Don A. de Alcedo ; L'Isthmo do raminui, >':c., by M. Michel Chcvnllicr ; tho important works of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher, the Voyage of the Sulphur and tho Voyage of tho Herald by Dr. Seemann ; the Keconnaissances Hydrographiques of Capts. do Lapelin and do EosencoHt, 1854 and 18J7. Upon its antiquities and general information, tho works of Dupais, Waldcck, J'ingsborough, Kouchaud, and Dumartray, may bo consulted. Ono of tho mo?t interesting is that by Mr. Stephens, who describes the ruins in Yucatan, but who passed through portions of the other republics. Tho most important work is that which contains tho vai-ious i)apcrs by j\Ir. E. G. Squicr, 1858. Tho work of Capt. Bedford Tim, E.N, ; tho Travels of Dr. 8chcrzor, and tho numerous reports issued by iho engineers and explorers of tho various inter-oceanic canals and railroads, which havo been so industriously brought before the world. These are uU noticed in the Appendix. I ■•t-a- C0A8T OF CENTEAL AMERICA. ) 1839 was 20 milos in 8 to include 3 discovered lod by tho ihip by tho minor state, y compara- lisli powor, ncorporatod id its indo- • it by Mr. om settled, luonce waH ) very great thorto been bo country, the rest of .merica lias istonce. It one-fourth this course, v.iu woi'ks of ; thiit of Voii )y Lieutonnnt nt account of work by the jbcrts, chiefly ^ostan'icii, by itiileB, byCoI. ho impoi'tant oyagu of tho apclin und do tho works of Itcd. Olio of tan, but who s that which Bedford rim, ngineers and industriously separates this state from Veragua ; in Nicaragua it inclines close to tho borders of tho I'acitic, leaving tho hikes on the Ka^t ; in Honduras it returns towards tho Atlantic, leaving tho wliolo »trt»« of Halvodtvr on tho South ; traversing Ouatomala, tlio now city and Chimalienango stand on tlio top of tho ridge, which now becomes moro elevated as it approaelios Mexico, and, branching into various groups, forms, in tho western part of tho state, that region which is demonstrated the highlands. The population on tho Vaciflc side of tho chain is much greater la proportion to its extent tliun on tho Atlantic slope. The chain is apparently inteiTupted in its course through Central America by the transversal valleys containing tho Lake of Nicaragua and tho plain of Comayaguu, but still tho elovation between the two oceans is considerable, and will be moro dwelt upon wlien we describe tho proposed canals, which would render Central America of very groat importance in the commercial world, should they oyer bo carried into execution. The Zttke^ of Nicaragua and of Leon, or Managua, aro among tho most important features of tho country. On the Pacific side, the rivers which are mot with rarely have their sf^urcos above GO miles from the sea. The Lempa is the principal, but is not navigable. The next in size is the Eio Choluteca, falling into the Bay of Conohagua. Altliough not possessed of good harbours, yet it is still superior to Mexico in this respect. The principal on the Pac'fio coast are, Eealejo, Calderas, La Union, Libertad, Acajutla, and Istapii or Sp.u Jose. Volcanic plienomena are frequent, und theii* devastating effects have been, at times, very severe. Tlie principal volcanoes now, or recently, in activity, are those of ■ ,eguina, Isalco, de Agua, and do Fuego, and many others ; of these the \wlcan de Agua is tho loftiest, being differently stated as 14,805 or 12,620 feet above the Pacific. These volcanic cones, often separated from the general chain, and suffi- ciently lofty to be visible 20 leagues ofi", are most magnificent land-marks, and are thus most important aids to navigation. There are usually eight of these volcanoes in activity — Isalco, las Pilas, Atitlan, Fuego, San Miguel, Momo- tombo, Orosi, and Cartago. Of these the first, Isalco, is an excellent beacon light, which overtops Sonsonate ; las Pilas is of recent formation, thrown up in 1850, and although it has been in full eruption cannot be seen from the offing. The rest of these volcanoes generally emit only smoke. The productions of Central America are important. The Tisingal gold mines, near the Chirique Lagoon, on the Atlantic side of Costa Kica, liave afforded as much riches as those of Potosi ; but the vegetable productions aro of greater importance than the mineral. Of cultivated articles, cocoa, indigo, coffee, sugar, and cotton, are the most prominent. These crops vary with the height of the country. At a lower elevation than 3,000 feet, indigo, cocoa, sugar, and cotton are grown. Cocoa is chiefly growu 2b ■W1C--T*. vytrm'^vturrvi^^ i -'tmitm^'m' . * GO AST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. along tho shores of the Pacific, and that of Soconusco was esteemed hy the Spaniards to bo tho best furnished by their American possessions. Indigo is general throughout tho country. Cochineal, or the nopal cactus, is cultivated between the heights of .'],000 and 5,000 feet, particularly in tho neighbour- HoDd of Guatemala. Of native woods, &c., abundance is produced, but principally refer to West India trade.* Ihe TRADE on the coast of Central America, whiclx is almost exclusively British, is increasing rapidly. At Puntas Arenas, in the Gulf of Nicoya, excellent coffee is expoi'ted, and is the best coffee in tho Pacific ; at Eealcjo, dye-wood (Brasil-wood), &c. ; at I a Union (Gulf of Fonseca), indigo, &c. ; at Sonsonate, indigo ; and at Istapd or San Jose, cochineal. • Climate. — The M'holo of Central America is situated between the tropics ; but the temperature and salubrity of its climate are as variable as aro the diversities of its abrupt elevations, mountains, plateaux, ravines, sands, low districts, lakes, and forests. The country is within the zone of the N.E. trades, which, sweeping across the Atlantic, reach the continent almost saturated with vapour. The portion of moisture which is deposited on the Caribbean Islands is probably quite restored to them in passing over the Mexican Gulf, and is then precipitated on tho eastern slope of tho high mountain ranges of Guatemala, Honduras, and Costa Hica, giving rise to a multitude of streams and rivers, and causing all that face of the country to be a dense and almost impenetrable forest of rank vegetation, unfit for the homo of civilized man, and still occupied by the same wild tribes that were found at tho discovery of the Now World. On the Pacific side, however, the trade wind still blows, foi the mountains' are not sufficiently high to intercept their entire violence, but it is deprived of much of its moisture, and tlius the climate is very different to tho Athmtio side. Tho climate is comparatively cooler, much drier, and conscfinontly very much more healthy. It is raro to witness an ontiro day of rain, oven in the rainy season, although sometimes, but rarely, a rain of several days' duration occur.",' which are called by the Spaniards 2'emporales. On tho sea-coast of tho Pacific, the seasons correspond with thoso of the table lands, but tho temperature is much hotter. It is said that the Pacifio shores aro healthy, although they are almost entirely covered with woods, This salubrity is, however, not without exceptional districts. On the coast, during tho fino season, which commences in I^ovomber and ends in May, tho land and sea breezes blow alternately, with a clear sky and but little rain ; strong winds rai'Cly occur during this period, except ai the * "This country is so pleasing to the eyo, (xnd nboimding in all thinjys necessaiy, tliiit the Spaniards call it Bluhomot's Paradiso."— ^(7/)fC, 10/iO, p. IGJ. An intcrcsthijj accnunt of Iho nuthor's twolvo years' residence in it will be found in his curious and valuabl'; b(xik mt IICA. CO was esteemed hy the n possessions. Indigo is lopal cactus, is cultivated cularly in the neighbour- idance is produced, but lich is almost exclusively in the Gulf of Nicoya, I the Pacific ; at Eealojo, Fonseca), indigo, &c. ; at ml ited between the tropics ; ■e as variable as are the 5aux, ravines, sands, low which, sweeping across ith vapour. The portion [slands is probably quite and is then precipitated ' Guatemala, Honduras, I and rivers, and causing fc impenctrablo forest of Q, and still occupied by f of the Now World. )lows, foi' the mountains' )lenee, but it is deprived different to the AthuUic' drier, and oonseqnontly 3n in the rainy Beason, days' duration occurs,' spend with thoso of tlie t is said that the raciflo ily covered with wood?, istricts. ences in November and ly, with a clear sky and is period, except at the n fill tilings necossaiy, tlmt . An intci'ostJDg nccount of irioiis and valuabjo book t i i L ii n i i i i>ii»MBWiaiMi> "3rn r w re. ■> ■/■ \u •'*"-'"■„. '• ^ V""" •''''■ \ I :^■^ is,-/.. / >)*i«fe -/K>-- ,ir-- .r W s: (7^^. 'i« •>».• '^'iiHr.y L. '\ ■^,.y^ ■^ X? , I...-- :j>..f*H':r ,Ai ./ CH«-yr '^,-. \ i'^"- ?B^ .l/*«Vi45iw* rtJ ^ ^ ...'.V >^ y '•*^' ifeji'/,*/--''-'^"' 4. '/. ;t %< "-n. -,>v:l ^-v ■ -^ -v^' ' r> /," '*' l^ /.'( it *' ^^hP^ Jndum ViUao' '■( i- ' ■,;-•<-> A' 12 y-i :: A X """\ ." ■-■ ■ •.■-'■>5 Indian VMagt -»*«*ai} »ff AU ■■«ftn tfttn/w'/.*- <" ,7.' San JoM^ Ml »^ '/> /:. /; H '■'' i^ »'•' lu] /.v ■'' '* /„ mK* .. '^l^itli'intt I. |RI£N WRBOTTR, ! f*^. INE V xi ■oil,'/;- /(••<■». I,! „ ui U It " y ■ '*''™*"*«, 1' "/" . /'rti* J 'IjitmM .ftwtfW^" A V K J ) , ••r < -*.JfJ "V ■xT. ■r *£ ■■t • . , trmii 4. ^ rM.K > Ami- /?/ /," ■">' /.I y.( /i '•' Jflduut. l^4Mf^ ""^■^-iRaJi ^i .¥ ■■•-. -" ri ,'.; ;v •*' i 1 > Indian VMagt Tidr <^, nt^lo VJiurnn .fc» -u i1 iV *. !> ■'•■ «■ i' A' .y*"^? m mi'.**? A' \\.«v ^-^;V"^^^*" CTWmtfc '.AV*' r K R UiA, S *■•.*■ J ' ■. _i /'S^ ■' '•' '■" ^' ^ J l.ihl.l IKS ;.1 • ' '" ^/ V v'S ; M" V,, j,i i3 i,tintit ■riL/ .11 i,- J',i.tx,iorJi • .■,. i/ It .V '" i-7 ."/ ti Pitnfi V J.wi^d'* X" 'fnwiaiiinr IRIKN kRBOTTR, San .loM^ I. /I T.vt •' •■■•• V S\^ '•^Jijli.in.t/. D J IN£ V ."1 /-• *( I.- ,, •• '■'■^'' >--1.:' (.aia.hinr r .;^ >'' - BAY ■ '*> » * .V< V 1 '^"'H, ^'^WVJrtJri ••/" J'rak A V 4 V I '"W.. MM/*-.f-M>ha\ IJhfKM ftnfff*^ Jt;'> i >a H ( .J /^ w .... .t;^' jtiV' }F iPATlAMA S: TM.BJfEH,. .,r,/,/„/./. i I kl'lllilS ItltV ((..v^^ ..^' '.'» COAST OF NEW GEANADA. full .ttiid chaiigo of tlio moon, when oocaaioiially a titroiig broozo from Iho iiortliwurd may bo oxiiononcod. Ill tlio rainy season, May to Novombov, lioavy rains, cahns, light variablo bi'cczos, with a closo sultry atmosplioro, lioavy squalls, •with thumler and lightning, and not unfrcriuently strong gales from the S.AV., aro provalont. During tlio lino season, the land and soa breezes set iii rogulai'ly ; tho former are called el Tcrral, and tho latter la Virazon. Tho only winds to bo guarded against at this season aro tho northers. These violent gusts givo no warning but the noiso created by them u few moments before they burst ; sometimes a thick fog sets in beforehand, which is dissipated at tho firat gust. Theso gusts aro more frequent near the Gulf of Tehuantepoc or abreast of the Gulf of Papagayos. In tho rainy season calms aro frequent, and tho sea and land breezes which aro felt on lino days, have no regularity. Tho prevalent winds then uro ft' u S.E. to S.W., blowing strongly and in squalls, bringing bad wea- ther and torrents of rain for twelve or fourteen days at a series. During this season nearly every afternoon about 3 or 4 o'clock, a violent gust seta in from the N.E. and lasts till daylight. Theso gales aro called chubancas, and resemble tho tornados of tho African coast. Oil tho coast of Central America tho currents aro variable, but almost always sotting to tho S.E., sometimes rather strong. Tho land wind never blows far olf shore, and, except in tho harbours, is not certain j tho sea breeze is seldom felt, but there ai'o of course exceptions. , Population. — Tho inhabitants of Central America comprise three classes : whites, or Creoles of Spanish race ; mestizos, or tho offspring of whites and Indians ; and aboriginal natives. There are but few negroes or Zamboes. There is considerable difficulty in arriving at a true estimate of tho popu- hitiim of the isthmus in tho absence of any official data. Mr. Squior lias carefully considered the question, and from various authorities ho assumes that the total number of inhabitants of the live states as 2,108,000, distri- buted thus: — Costa Eica, 135,000; Nicaragua, 300,000; San Salvador, •133,000; Honduras, 350,000; and Guatemala, 890,000, San Salvador being much the most densely populated. Of these 100,000 aro whites, 800,000 of mixed white and coloured races, Ladinos, Mulnttoes, &c,, 19,000 negroes, and 1,189,000 Indians. 1. THE COAST OF NEW GRANADA; PANAJitA TO POINT BUEICA. In our volume descriptive of tho South Pacific Ocean, the directions for tho coasts of South America terminate with the G.ulf of Panama. And this, although it lies eight degrees North of tho Equator, will bo a fitting com- mencement for our present work, as it is really the first point touched on b;|'' I' MW Uft ar^l t t i .^j i m. i K .. ii njJn»inn.: i j j i i ]» ju ll ijt j niiiii i '] iii n ^ Ijl jt u pi lW II e COAST OF NEW GRANADA. the transit trado from tho Atlantic side. We therefore repeat from that work those directions which refer to this portion of the New Qranadian coast. Garachino Point on the East, and Capo Mala on the West, may be taken as the limits of what is called the Gulf of Tanama. These points lie E.N.E. and W.S.W., true, 103 miles apart. The depth of tho gulf within this lino is about 80 miles, the city of Panama being at its head. Panama Bay is the space between the main and the Pearl Archipelago. Until the survey of 184 i), by Capteins Kellett and Wood, E.N , we were dependent for our knowledge on the old but excellent Spanish charts, and on the still singularly correct description given by Dampier, nearly two centu- rics since. The BAY OF SAN MIGUEL, to the N.E. of Garachino Point, on tho eastern side of Panama Gulf, was well known to tho Buccaneers, who used it as the entrance to the Pacific in their overland journeys from tho Gulf of Darien, which they generally accomplished under 10 days. Since Dampior's time it has almost been forgotten until 1851, when the idea of a ship canal was suggested to connect it with Caledonia Bay, in the Gulf of Darien. This project, still under consideration, will be noticed in the Appendix. The entrance t the Gulf is 6 J miles wide, between Lorenzo Point on tho North, and Patino Point on the South. Bney Bank, an extensivo shoal, drying in patches at low water, on which a heavy sea breaks, is 6 miles in circumference, its inner edge lying nearly IJ- mile from Lorenzo Point, but this passage should not be used, as there is only 10 feet water in it, and generally a heavy swell. A spit with 12 feet extends off its south-west end for 1^ mile, and 4 J fathoms only are found ne; ly 5 miles from it ; vessels should not stand within that depth. San Jose Bank, a dangerous shoal, 1 milo long by three-quarters of a mile broad, in the centre of which is the Trolhpe Eock with only 2 feet water, lies in the fairway of ships bound to Panama from the southward, being 16 miles from Garachino Point and 9 from Galera Island, the south-eastern of the Pearl Islands. It is easily avoided either by keeping on the main shore until Garachino Point bears to the southward of East, or by passing nearer to Galera Island, which may be approached as near as 2 miles, taking care of the shoal patch and rocks off its southern side. The FERLAS or FEABL ISLANDS, also known by the names of Mm del Rey, Islaa del Idmo, and Ishs de Colombia, form an archipelago on the eastern side of the Bay of Panama, consisting of 16 islands and several rocks. Isla del Key is the largest, San Jose, Gonzales, Casaya, Saboga, and Pacheca are of secondary, and the rest of minor importance. There are from 30 to 40 fishing villages scattered about these islands, containing about 2,000 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the Pearl fishery, which is said to produce about two gallons of pearls a year ; the shells also form a lucrative article of commerce. These islands are low and wooded, the soil fertile, but not much GULF OF PANAMA. repeat from that 3 New Granadiau est, may be taken I points lie E.N.E. If within this lino Panama Bay is od, E.N , we were lish cliarts, and on nearly two centu- ino Point, on the ;aneer9, who used from the Gulf of Since Dampier's lea of a ship canal ) Gulf of Darien. in the Appendix. renzo Point on the w water, on which edge lying nearly t bo used, as there \. spit with 12 feet ns only are found it depth. -quarters of a mile r 2 feet water, lies ird, being 16 miles (uth-eastern of the m the main shore by passing nearer miles, taking care ihe names of Jslas archipelago on the lands and several Lsaya, Saboga, and e. There are from aining about 2,000 is said to produce lucrative article of rtile, but not much cultivated ; most of thorn belong to morchnnts at Panama, who employ negroes to plant and cultivate them. Paoheca, Saboga, and Contadora, with the iHlets of Bartholomew and Cliipro, aro a group in the nortliorn partof tlio arcliipfluf^o, forming between them a good and capiicious liarbour, well suited os a depot for stoumors. Pacheca and Contadora aro covered solely by palm trees, unmixed with any others, whidi is singular. Sabo<,'n, the largest isiniid, on the E^ist side of which is a considerable villngo, has a roof oxtcmling IJ mile to the north- ward, which, with Chipre to the soiitliward, forms the western side of this harbour. Pacheca and Bartholomew being on the northern, and Contadora on the south-easterk: ri^le ; the latter island hna o lathoms close to its north- east shore, which is low and well adapted for wharves. This harbour is about 2 miles long by nearly 1 broad, with an average depth of 9 fathoms ; it has throe entrances, each possessi",-," a 5-fathom8 channel, which may be used as best suited to wind and tide. It is high water, full and change, at Saboga Island at 4'', the rise and fall being 14 feet. Vessels using the Pacheca Channel should pass within half a mile of the small island West of Pacheca, and stand to the southward until the centre of Bartholomew Island bears E. by S. i S. ; steer for it on this bearing until the northern islets off Saboga open M'estward of Saboga, bearing S. by W. 1- W., when the vessel may haul to the southward for Contadora. If entering by the Contadora Channel, a ship should pass half a mile to tho eastward of Bartholomew Island and not stand to the westward before tho nearest islets North of Saboga open northward of Saboga, bearing W. by S. J S., which leads through. Care must be taken not to open them too much, as there is a 2-fathom patch to the north-east of Contadora to bo avoided. Vessels from the eastward using tho Saboga Channel should pass half a mile eastward of Contadora, and continue standing to tho southward until the outer islet on the reef South of Saboga opens southward of tho same island, bearing E. i 8. Steering on this course will clear tho vessel of the sunk rock in this channel, which lies nearly 1 mile to the southward of Contadora, and when Pacheca is shut in by Saboga, bearing N. J W., you may stand to the northward, and run through the channel wliich is steep-to on both sides. If this harbour were used, a few buoys would greatly assist the navigation. Chapera and Pajaros lie next to the southward ; there is a i fathoms channel between them, but the ground is foul and it should not be used. No vessel should attempt the passages South of Chaperd, Island, between it and Isla del Eey. Casaya, Bayoneta, and Viveros, with several islets and rocks, are the largest islands on what may be termed an extensive reef stretching off from COAST OF NEW GRANADA. Iho iiortli-wiht point oi' Isla del Itoy, iibout 8 milfs Ion;,' l.y it broail, llio liassiij^os bctwoon thorn l»ciiig foul with occiisiomil Htroii}.? tidoH. A ahoal li milo long liy tlirco-ciimrtors of ii milu wido, linving only '.) fi'ot water on its Hhoidcst i)!irt, lir.s nearly -1 miles to the eastward of tho North point of CttHaya. Tho whole of these islands should bo avoided by vossola bound up tho bay. ISLA DEL REY, tho main island of tho gi'onp, is about 15 miles long by 7 broad, with several peaks on it, tho highest being alxnit (500 feet abovo tho sea. Numorous islets, having d(;op water belwoon thoin, lie off its we.stcia Hhoro, extending iJ miles from tho eoast, but thoy should not bo appi\>aeliod by Btrangors within tho depth of 10 fathoms. Coeos roiiil, its southern ex- treme, is a romarkablo promontory jutting into tho sea, 4 miles long by about 1 wide, its oxtrouio cliff being crowned by an umbrolla-liko tree, whieh makes it conspicuous. East of this point is tho fine JJtii/ of 67. J:'/mo, with convc- iiiont anchorage in all parts, and n good etroaiu of water at Lomon Toint, in tho bight of tho bay. Tho eastern shcjro has also i.slands off it, but thoy are stoop-to, and may be approached within half a mik', with the exception of Canas Island, at tho eastern point, whoro there is a a -fathom patch lying outside a sunk rock nearly 1 i milo from tho shore. Sau Miguel, tho principal town of the.so islandi?, on tho North side of Ishi del Rey, i.s of somo size, possessing a conspicuous church ; it is, however, badly situated, landing being diirieult at low Avator. Two hills— tho Cerro Congo and Cen-o Vali— lie to tho southward of it, tho former being -181 foot high. Supplies are uncertain and dear, being generally all sent to Panama. Care must bo taken in approaching it, as tho bottom is irregular and rocks abundant. OALERA, a small island, generally the first land made by vessels bound to Panama, is 7\ miles to tho south-oast of Coeos Point, like which it is re- markable for its umbrella-treo. A clilf forms its southern side, sloping down to a beach on tho North, and to the southward u reef runs off for nearly 1 milo. This island should not bo approached within tho depth of 10 fathoms, but there is a good passage betwoeu it and Coeos Point, by using which tho vessel will bo clear of tho San Jose Bank. GONZALES lies on the AVest side of Isla del Eey, with a broad deep channel between it and tho islets before mentioned. It is about 12 miles in circumferenco, and has on its northern side two bays protected from tho North by tho Islands of SePiora and Seuorita. These bays, called Peiri/ and Miiificimne, aro divided by the little peninsula of Trapiche, off the East point of which is a rocky ledgo, terminating in a shoal, with 14 feet water. A largo stream of water runs into the sea on tho western side of Magi- cienne Bay. This bay, however, is small and shoal, without tho advantages of Perry Bay, which is 1 milo wido, and ruus back for tho sumo distance. GULP OF PANAMA. ■ liy broacl, tlio Jos. A bhoiil IjJ IV'of wiitor on its 3 Nortli pi lint of VOHSola bound ui> 15 milt'S long by 00 feet above tho lie oif its wcbtcni ot bo ap|ii\>ui;Jiod its southern ox- los long by about roe, whidi makes Imo, with eonvc- Lonion Point, in oop-to, and may las Ihiland, at tho jide a sunk rock 'orth sido of lulu ; it is, liowever, hills — tho Cerro ir being *181 foot sent to Pauaina. gular and rocks )y vessels bound ■which it is ro- irn fiido, sloping I'eef runs off for lin the depth of i Point, by using h a broad decii bout 12 miles in tectcd from tho called rcrri/ and IT the East point 3t water, n sido of Magi- < tho advantages mo distance. (b.iizalos was purchusod in December, lH.-,7, by tho Ihitish Uovorniucnt of an American ci(i/cu for !:i,00l), tho Now Gramida Government consonling, mid retaining tho sovereignty. No building was to bo erected on it, but a vessel was to be moored. Jt was intended as a watering station for 11. M. llect. ^ciwrii and Sciwriln, including tho shoal olf Iheir eastern side, are about one mile long, and lii^ nearly tho same distance northward of Trapicho, Avilh a 7 fathoms channel botwocn, stoop-to on both sides. It is high water, full and change, in Perry Hay, at .')i' 50'" ; tho vise being K) feet. Tho tide stream is not felt in tho anchorage, but thoro is a cousi- derablo set olf lln^ island, th.^ ilood setting to tho northward, and ebb to tho soutliward, tiio latter being generally tho stronger. San Jose Island lies 1 miles directly South of Gonzahs; tho summit forms a iablo land. Nearly 2 miles S.E. from tho Iguana Point, tho northern ex- treme of tho island, is a large waterfall, running into tho sea, and formiu"- an excellent watering place. Passage Rock is a dangerous sunk rock, Mitli 12 and 9 fathoms alongside of it, lying near the centre of tho channel, between San Jose and Gonzales, which otherwise is doop and clear. It is 1.} milo from Gonzales, and 2\ miles from San Jose. Vessels should koep between tho Sau Jose shore and this rock. The COAST-— ./>Vr?i'rt Point forms with Lorenzo Point, front which it is dis- tant 2 miles, the northern point of entrance to tho Gulf of San IMiguel. I'otli those points aro edged with reofs and outlying rocks. Farallon Ingles is a small but high island, lying at tho edgo of tho shoal off tho river Buenaventura, about 5 miles to tho northward of IJrava Point ; 12 and l.j feet water aro found on its western side. Gorda Puiii(, bold and woody with 4 fathoms close to, lies 4 miles northward of tho Farallon ; there is less swell after passing this point. Tho Pajitros aro two small rocky islets 4 miles from Gorda Point, with 4 and 5 fathoms to tho westward, but only 13 feet between them and tho shore. At these islets tho 5 fathoms shoal commences, which continues in front of tho coast round tho Bay of Panama as far as Point Chame, on its western shore. Tho JUiar TrinUhtd, 2\ miles from the northern islet, has a low rocky point forming its south-west point of entrance. A 3 fathom channel was found into this river, extending IJ- milo from tho point. Shag Rod, a barren islet, frequented by birds, wit'. shoal water round it, lies 2i miles from this entrance. Manfjuc and ^Foja- ymij, 7 miles from tho Eiver Trinidad, aro high wooded islets at tido time. Thero is a depth from 10 to 12 feet water to tho westward of them. Jliva- Cltiman, to tho northward of those islands, is wido at tho mouth, but shoal, being nearly dry at low water. On tho eastern side, under a hill, is tho small town of Chiman. This was tho spot to which I'izarro retired in 152.5, after boating about for 70 days with much danger and incessant fatigue, r -e^viti^r-^^ikaire*--.— ^-r-i"-**— -• •■ JO COAST OF NEW OBANADA. withoiit being nWo to mnko nny ndvonco to the Bouthwnrd. IIo was Jioro joined l)y Almngro, and the following year Ihcy Hoilod again for Porn. Pelado Islet, W. by N. 4 miles IVom Maiiguo islet, directly off the mouth of tho llivor Chiman, is a flat level islet of smuU extent and about (JO foot high ; it has no trees, but is covered with a coarse prickly shrub ; is steep-to on all sides, and forms a useful mark to vessels bound up tho bay for rauamn, who need not go inshore of it. Chepillo Island, .') miles from Telado, is described by Dampior as the most pleasant island in tho Bay of Tanama ; it lies off tho mouth of tho llh'cr Chcpo, about 2 miles Irom i'>o eoast, and is one mile long by ono-half broad, very fertile, being low on the^o^th side, and rising by a gentle ascent towards tho South, over which is a ro)unrkable tree. This tree also forms an excellent mark to vessels bi^'iml up tiie bay ; tho southern point may be ap- proached within a mile, but the other side.^ arc shoal, a reef running off its northern point in the direction of tho river. Tho coast between this island and I'olado is low ri /cr land with mungrovo bushes. The land North of theso rivers is of some elevation. Column Peal and Asses Ears, about 12 miles North of Chiman, and Tliumh Peali, at tho West extreme of the range, are conspicuous. Chepc River extends some distance into tho interior of tho isthmus, having its rise near tho head of tho Savannah river. The entrance is to the east- ward of Chepillo Island, through a 10 feet channel, about 3 cables broad. Vessels should stand no nearer than 6 fathoms between Chepillo and Panama. PANAMA. PANAMA is one of the " Gates of the Pacific," and from the very earliest times has held an importi^iii; position in the connection between tho Old W jrld and tho Pacific. For within a year of the discovery of tho great ocean a town was established in its vicinity.* During tho Spanish occupa- tion of these regions, it was periodically the scene of much activity, as the plate-fleet from I ama, with numerous merchant vessels with goods and treasure, came every three years for their transport across tho isthmus to Porto Bello. This continued, more or less, to the downfall of tho Spanish power in Americi, but was also serio'.isly affected by the establishment of a regular commerce round Cape Horn. With tho growth of trans-oceanic steam navigation it began again to revive, but the gold diggings in California * " Nata, on tho West side of tho Bay of Panama, was tho first town built by tho Spa- niards on tho coast of tho South Sea. It was founded in 1517. The follo\ving your they established themselves at Panama."— J/i?rrw(i, Ilktoria de las Lidias Occidentals, dec. 2, lib. iv. chap. 1. 1 riMii PANAMA. 11 IIo was lioro or Porn, off the mouth about GO fuot •lib ; is stoop-to ly for Puuamn, •ampier as the mouth of tho ig by ono-hnlf a gontle ascent e also forms an iut may be np- running off its con this ishind lumn Peak and I; at tho West isthmus, having 10 is to the east- 3 cables broad. Chepillo and the very earliest otwoen tho Old •y of tho great Spanish occupa- activity, as the with goods and tho isthmus to of tho Spanish iblishmont of a of trans-oceanic Qgs in California suddenly brought it into prosperity, which was wonderfully cnlmiicod by tho completion of tho railroad in lh.')5. Immediutoly about Panama, E&st u'.ong the coast, and N.W. from it, tho land is low and flat, but West and N.E. the mountains approach it closely ; nnd from a liill called Cnro Ancon, about a mile West from the city, and .VIO feet high, an excellent bird's-eyo view is obtained of tho whole adjoining country, including tlin city, tho island in tho bay, tho neighbouring planta- tions, tho mountains of Yoragua, tho Pearl Islands, tho iiat country towards Chagres, the elevated chain between Porto-Bello and Panama, the Rio Grande, tho low land along tho coast towards 'ho Pacora and Chepo, Panama Vieja, &c., all which come successively under review, and togotlier constitute a landscape beyond measure beautiful. Tho city consists of two parts, tho city proper of San Felipe, occupying the peninsula, and tho suburb of Santa Ana, on tho isthmus. It is at tho latter that the railway terminus is, and therefore tho city has not benefited so much by the traffic it brings, as tho greatest i)art of tho merchandize and passengers do not enter the city. Panama suffers much from want of proper drainage, which is inexcusable, as there are such faciliti(!S in the great rise of tide. Of late years it has somewhat improved in this respect, but in other regards tho same indolence and inactivity are evident in tim ruinous public buildings, and want of cntorpriso that were so manifest of old.* Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in tropical re- gions, but are generally dear ; provisions of excellent quality may, however, be obtained from the United States by ships requiring them ; and, when time will admit of it, getting such from the States is far preferable to purchasing in the markets of Colon or Panama. Water can be obtained at Panama from tho tank of the United States' mail steamers ; but it is cheaper at Taboga, whore it may bo purchased at two dollars a tun. Coal may be bought here nt times from the mail compa- nies, but it is generally dear. Consuls of all nations reside at Panama. On board ship Panama is by far tho most healthy placo on tho coast of Central America. Vessels of war have remained hero many months nt a time, their crews continuing in a healthy state, excepting those men who had the will and opportunity to indulge in tho vilo spirit {aguardiente) of the country, which is cheap and easily procured. The RAILROAD which connects the two shores of tho isthmus was origi- nated by three American merchants. Mr. Stephens, well known by his ■writings and researches in Central America, and Messrs Aspinwall and L built by tho Spa- jllowng your thoy Iccldentahs, doc. 2, • Seo voyage of H.M.S. Herald, by Herthold Seoinann, vol. i, pp. 84— G, and 231—248 ; also, "The Gate of the Pacific," by Captain Bedford Pirn, R.N„ 1863, p. 208, et eeq., and the Handbook lo tho Panama liailroad, by Dr. F. N. Otis, 1867. .12 COAST OF NEW GRANADA. Chauncoy. Tlio fornior ^-outlomati iiiado a preliminary examination in 1 8 IS, and then tlio partners entered into a formal contract with tlio Government of Now Granada for tlio exclvisivo privilege of constructing a railway across the isthmus, and the company waa secured from competition for 4'J years by the government guaranteeing that no other iron railroad or maritimo canal should bo sanctioned. The 'work was commenced in January, isr.o, and was finished on January 28, 1855, under tho able superintendence, of Colonel G. M. Tottcn. Its total length is 45 miles 3,020 feet; it runs on tho right or easterly bank of tho Cluigres from tho Atlantic terminus, as far as Barbacoas, whence it crosses tho river by a wrought-iron bridge, 035 feet long, in six spans. This is ex- actly midway between tho two ends. The highest point is 37^' miles from the Atlantic, and 263 feet above the mean sea level. There aro no loss than 134culvert8, drains, and bridges of 10 feet and under, and 170 bridges of greater dimensions. Tho lino is only a single one, but there are four sidings at Gatun, Earbacoas, Matachin, and at the summit. The line is altogether constructed in a most masterly and perfect manner, and is maintained in the greatest efficiency by stations four miles apart. A most substantial electric telegraph is established between its termini. Tho t.^tal expenditure on the railway was 7,407,553 dollars-about £ 1 ,500,000 sterling. The faro across the isthmus is 25 dollars-i:5 is. U. sterling, or 2,s. 21^?. a mile ; only one class, one of tho dearest travelling roads in tho world. Tho tiino occupied is '4.} hours, and the cost of fuel, exclusively wood, is lU dollars for tho double journey. Prom these high rates it has been a most profitable investiuejit, 15 per cent, being acknowledged, but probably much more, for in 1857 it was 20 per cent, on the capital. Tho northern terminus, Asplnwull, or Co- lon, as it is termed in England, is a busy, thriving Now England town, m groat contrast to the Spanish raclfic terminus. Tho Panama .Station is to tho eastward of tho city, and is connected with an iron pier 450 feet long, up to which the smaller steamers come for the transport of passengers and mor- chandisG between tho shore and the ocean steamers at Perico or Taboga. A longer pier and docks aro very much wanted at Panama. Petillo Point to the East of Panama, is a black rocky promontory with two small hils over it ; rocky ledges extend from this point for \\ cables, and off their extreme a depth of 10 feet may bo found. A great portion of this bay betwe.in this point and Panama is dry at low water springs, yet at its entrance there is a depth of 8 feet. It is termed FA imcvto, or port of Panama, and it is here that most of tho minor trado of the Gulf is carried on by means of bongos, large canoes niado from trees of such dimensions that some of them formed from a single trunk have measured 12 tons. Bwij roint, only seen after half-ebb, forms tho soull'orn horn of this bay ; the long rocky ledges oxtei d 3i cables from the N.E. bastion, 5 cables from the S.E. bastion in an easterly and 2.} in a soutliorly direction, forming a bay south- jamiuatiuii in 18 IS, tlio Govcrntuunt of g a railway across ion for 49 yeara by . or mariliuio eaual Unibhcd on January [. Tottcn. Its total lastorly bank of tiro i, Avhonce it crosscB spans. This is cx- t is 37^' miles from icro aro no loss tlian and 170 bridges of hero aro four sidings ic lino is altogether is maintained in the t substantial electric expenditure on the ig. The faro across Id. a mile ; only one The timo occupied is jUars for the double rolitable investment, more, for in 18i>7 it 3, Aspinwall, or Co- [Y England town, in ?auama .Station is to ^)ier 4j0 feet long, up ■ passengers and mor- Pcrico or Taboga. A la. alcy promontory with point for H cables, . A groat portion of •water springs, yet at El puo'to, or port of f the Gulf is carried s of such dimensions asm-od 12 tons. Bueii \ of this bay ; the long I cables from thu S. E. ibrniiug ti bay south- PANAMA. 13 ward of Bucy Point, in which is easy landing after half-flood, on a sandy beach in front of the Monk's gate. The general landing, hovrovcr, is round Buey Point, at tlio market place on tho northern side of tho town. Theso ledges around tho city, composed of rock with sand patches botwcon, although now irksome and often dangerous to boats, afford every facility for erecting substantial piers and improving tho jiort. As yot there is no attempt at works of this descrii)tion. Tlio R.W. part of tho Panama Road is embarrassed by rocks and shoals. Although theso dangers aro mostly above water, yet this part of tho Bay of Panama should bo avoided. Perico and Flamenco, with tho outlying rock of San Josr, aro a group of islands forming tho South side of Panama Eoad. licnao and Culebra, tho western and soutliorn parts of Perico, aro comiected with It by an isthmus of beach and rocks ; but at high water those prosen+ the appearance of threo islands. Tliose four islands aro tho joint property of the Panama Eailroad .xnd Pacilic !Mail Steam Ship Companies. Porico is tho head quarters of United States mail steamers, tho bay on its northern sido forming a conve- nient anchorage, while on tho isthmus, whicli is sandy on that sido, steamers of 2, .500 tons havo been easily beached. Vessels using this anchorage after passing Flamenco, should keep closo round tho North end of Poric >. and anchor when tho isthmus opens. Largo vessels drawing over 20 feet may coal at Perico, by passing West of the group at half tide, with Ancon Tlill (whicli on that bearing raakeslikoa cone), just opeuof Ilenao, N.N.AV., pass about a cable's length from Ilenao, and anchor off its north-west end in 21 feet, when Perico opens. In both cases attention must be paid to tho timo of tido. Danaide Rocks, a ])atch of conical rocks, on the eastern ridgo of tho road, M-ith only 12 and 1.5 feet on th(>m, surrounded by ;5i and 4 fatlioms, lie E. )>y S. 2.1 miles from the S.E. basfion. Tliose rocks aro awkwardly placed, lying in tho track of vessels standing for tho anchorage, keeping their luff with the land breeze. It is a favourite fishing place, and vessels sliould avoid canoes seen in that vicinity, as they are probably fishing on tho rocks. Sii/pJiitr Jioch, a dangerous reef, one mile to tho north-west of tho Dana'ido, have a rock awash in their centre. Knochr and lahoga lioch aro two sunken rocks, with only 6 feet water on them ; tho former has a red buoy, with siajf' and fing on it, and lies nearly ono milo E. \ N. from the S.E. bastion ; tho latter lies a little more than 2 cables to tho S.W. of tiio buoy, witli 1(5 foot water between and 12 feet inshore of them, but no stranger si /uld attempt to pass West of tho Knocker Buoy. Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in. Panama at 3'' 23™. Tho springs range from 18 to 22 feet, and the neaps from G to 10 feet. Tho ebb sets South from 1 to H milo nu hour, and is stronger than tho flood, which runs to the N.W. 14 COAST OF NEW GRANADA. Directions.— Sailing vessels bound to Panama should endeavour to get within 3 or 4 miles of Chopillo Island, especially between December and June, and so have all the advantages of tlio prevailing northerly wind. From this point Ancon Hill will bo seen, and should bo kept a little on the port bow, as tho wind hauls to the westward on approaching Panama. Vessels drawing over 18 feet should pass ScAitli of the Danaide Eocks, by uot bring- ing Sun ,Tose on with the Wost point of Taboga (the largest of e group of islands about 9 miles South of Panama), bearing S.S.W., until the cathedral towers are open to the eastward of Ancon, Having passed the Danaide the ship is fairly in the road and may anchor according to her draught; if no more than 18 feet she may have Tortola just shut in by Ilei'ao, bearing S.S.W. i W., and San Joso open East of Taboguilla, the eastern of tho group above mentioned. Larger vessels, drawing 24 feet, may come-to North of Perico, with tho peak of Urava, the centre of tho Taboga Group, on with the East point of Flamenco, bearing South, taking care not to open Changarmi north- ward of Perico. If it is necessary to work up tho road to an in-shore berth, tack on tho western side just before Perico and Flamenco touch, and in standing to the eastward do not open San Joso of Taboga Island. Vessels drawing 14 feet may pass North of tho Danaide and South of the Sulphur Eocks, with the Hermanos Eocks on with right side of the peak, between the rivers Grande and Falfan, then San Jose on with the peak of Taboguilla bearing S. i E., leads between Sulphur and Knocker Rocks, and tlioy may anchor North of the buoy in 16 feci, koei)ing it between Perico and Flamen-'o, with Gabilan, a rocky peninsula West of the town, just shut in by the S.E. bastion. During neap tides they may anchor still further to the N.W. Panama Road, although shoal, may bo considered secure; tho ground being muddy holds well. A sailor, resident in Panama for five years, re- marks, that during that time there was no known case of a vessel being driven from her anchors ; and av ith good ground tacklo and common precau- tion a vessel might lie there uU the year round with one anchor down. At- tention to the tides and soundings of the roadstead will enable a vessel to lie close in at times for the discluu'go of cargo. TABOOA ISLAND, with those of Uram and TahugmUdy form a pleasant group of islands, about 4 milea long by 2 broad, lying 9 miles to the south- ward of Panama. Taboga, the highest and largest, 9:50 feet above tho sea, is well cultivated, with a considerable villugo on its N.E. side. To tho northward of the village is the Morro of Talwga, a small hill, connected witli tho main island by n low sandy isthmus, covered at high water. This place is the hoad-quartei'3 of the Pacific Mail Company who have here a stonm fac- tory and coal stores, also a gridiron, 300 foot long, on which H.M.S. J/rti/*- cicniie, a vessel of l,25r) tons, was repaired in 18v'58. Vessels visit Taboga from Panama to procure water and supplies, both of PAEITA BAY. 15 eavoiir to get December and lywind. From e on the port ama. Vessels by not bring- of p group of I the cathedral 3 Danai'de the ht ; if no more ring S.S.W. i 3 group above jrth of Perico, vith the East ngarmi north- n-shore berth, touch, and in !ld. i South of the of the peak, li the peak of cer Rocks, and stween Perico awn, just shut itill further to i; the ground five years, re- vessel being mmon precau- r down. At- a vojsol to lie *m a pleasant to the south- above tho sea, idfj. To tho ioniiected witli r. This place e a steam fuc- a.M.S. Map- iplios, both of which are more readily obtained than at the city. Water can be procured from the Company's tank at 2 dollars per tun. The anchorage formed by the Morro is convenient, being about 3 cables from the shore in 10 fathoms, with the peak of Urava on with high cliff of Taboga and tho church from S.W. i S. to AVost. Vessels coaling at this island should avoid giving liberty to tlioir crews. There is a regular steam boat communication with the city. Univa is a small, lofty island, separated from Taboga by a narrow and shoal channel ; off its southern extreme is the small islet of Terajm. Ta- boguilla, 710 feet high, also well cultivated, with some islets off itsS.W. ex- treme, forms the N.E. island of tlie group, with a wide and deep channel between it and Urava, in tho centre of which is a sunk rock witli 8 and 14 fathoms close to. Tho coast from Bruia Point to Chame Point, a distance of 4G miles, forms a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets, and vessels bound to Panama should keep near the islands of Taboga, and not approach tliia shore within tho depth of 5 fathoms. About one mile to tho N.E. of Viquo Cove is a lofty treble-peaked hill, called Cetro de Cabra, forming a conspicu- ous object to vessels bound to Panama, and frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from the eastward Chame Bay, at tlie head of which is a snmll river of the same name, is nearly filled up by large banks, of which the largest is tlie Cabra Spit, lying in the middle, with Tabor Islo on it. On the southern sido is Chauio Point, a singular, low, woody promontory jutting into the sea, S.J miles long by half a mile broad. Between this and Cabra Spit is a convenient harbour, 2 miles in length by about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with from 3 to 8 fathoms water in it, and from 16 to 18 feet, close to tlie beach of Chame Point. To the north-west of the river ; a liigh range called Sierra Capero, and to the southward are the Cerro Ciiaiii. \ a group of wooded hills. MeloHcs Lknd is a small rocky islet, 2^ miles to the uorth-west of Taboga, with a rock above water, lying about half a mile to the northward of it. Vhami Island, with tho Pcriquc Rock, are of a similar nature, situated about tlio sume distance southward of Taboga. Valladolid is a large rock nearly 2 inilee to the south-west of Chame Island, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. Otoque and Bona, with IMva Island and the Redmdu Rod; lying 6 miles to tho S.E. of Chame Point, form a group similar but somewhat smaller than Taboga and Taboguilla, being cultivated, and having a considerable village, called La Goleta, in the bay on the western side of Otoquo. Anchorage, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, may bo found in any part of this group, and all dan- gers are above water. PABITA BAY, large and open to the eastward, is nearly 20 miles across. If) COAST OF NEW OEANADA. ! I lyinf? 45 miles to tho soutli-west of Chami' Toint. Tlio coast liotwoeu is a continuous beach, called Plnya Grande, in front of a low Avoodod bank. Vessels from Parita Lay should shape a course to pass about 2 miles to tho southward of Bona. Tho mud-flats aro found again on tho western sido of Parita Bay. Tijuana NamI, a littlo higher than the adjacent coast, and thus forming a conspicuous object, lies about 9 miles to tho northward of Capo ^Mala. Tho island is steep-to, except at its South and East points, with 15 fathoms in vho channel between it and tho main. It is high water, full and change, at Iguana Island, at -1'', tho rise and fall being lo foot. CAPE MALA, which forms tho western point of entrance in tho Gulf of Panama, is a low but cliffy point with outlying roclcy lodges, having deep water close to them Tho land from tho north-west slopes gradually down to tho soa at this point from a considerable distanco, maldng tlio exact capo difficult to distinguish, unless tho breakers aro scon. On opening tho gulf round this a strong southerly sot is generally experienced, especially in tho dry season. The PROVINCE of VERAGUAS, tho western extremity of New Granada, was but little known till tho surveys of Capt. Kcllett and Capt. Jas. Wood in 1818—9, and Captain do Posencoat in 185-1-— 7, made us ncriuaintcd with its coasts. Of tho interior we are still almost as ignorant as Moro tho early historians of Columbus. Tho relative poverty of tho region lias never at- tracted any attention, or raised any commercial products. Tho native popu- lation, chiefly Indian, does not exceed 50,000 in number. Some of these aro occupied during part of tho year in collecting pearls and pearl oyster filiells, and also tortoise-shells, for which ono or two vessels annimlly visit tho dilTcrent islands and harbours, of which that of David is tho chief, tho town being tho capital of tho province. In front of tho coast is an archipelago, or rather range of islands, running generally parallel with it, and leaving a channi'l, 10 or I'i miles broad,- within ilin four groups which tliey form. Tho coast itself abounds in cx- c^dlent and spacious harbours, and throughout landing is easy and safe. There aro no barred rivers nor outlying shoals, but then there is littlo moro than tho vast primeval forest to visit. Los Frailes aro two reumrkaldo rocks, tlic southern one of which is 12. miles S.W. \ S. from Cape Malay. They are 2} miles apart, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and aro bold-to. They aro a good mark for approach- ing Capo Mala. In leaving tho Bay of Panama, tho cape should not be approached too closely, as tho current shifts from its easterly direction to tho S.AV. outside it. Tho coast trends nearly due West from Cape ISfala, and at 13.1 miles is tho small island of Jloiado or rouiilo. Not far from this thero is a commodious creek, according to nativo report, or river, accessible for vessels of any draught, having iO or 12 fathoms depth, and affording a sup- THE BAY OF MONTIJO. 17 between is a •woodod bank. 2 miles to tlio vostcrn sldo of Ims fin-niing a po ^Malii. Tho 15 fathoms in and change, at n tho Gulf of ■s, having deep radually down tlio exact capo ening the gnlf pecially in tho New Granada, ipt. Jas. Wood cqiiainted with wci'o tho early . lias never at- le native popu- Somo of these id pearl oyster annually visit tho chief, tho- ilands, running 2 miles broad,- ibounds in cx- casy and safe, e is little nioro of which is 12. , in a N.N.W. k for approach- should not bo direction to tho 'apo ^lala, and from this thero •:, accessible for affording a sup- ply of fresh water. Tho coast beyond this trends to W.W. for ir, miles to Tuercos Point, and tlien 27 miles AV. by S. \ S., and terminates in Point Mariato, from which it bears to tlio northward. Tho only outlying dangers are a. slioal of 18 foot, lying U milo olf shore, at 2 miles E. by N. of Point Puereos ; and another roof, of sonio extent, a mile olf shore, and -1 miles W.S.W. of Point Puereos. Tho rest of tho coast is <|uite bold-to. Mariato Point is in lat. 7 12' N., long. 80 51' 30' W. It is bold and bold-to. At ry miles N.W. liy W. from it is a snmll wooded i.sland, iy(l, as the Hats run olf a long way, and it is possible to })o deceived in tho di.stanco. The high water, by my calcidation, is at half-past throe o'clock. At full and change tlie ilood comes from the North, and returns the same way, flowing 7 hours, and ebbing 5, and the perpendicular rise of tho tide 2 fathoms. Hicaron, which lies off tho S.W. side of Coiba, 4 miles distant, is of a triangular form, and well wooded. Its highest point is on the East side, and is sao feet high, an eminence that commands a prosjiect all over tho adja- cent islands, and tho coast beyond. Off its South point is lUcarUu, a small islet, covered with cocoa-nut trees. The channel between Hicaron and Coiba is of very irregular depth, but is safe and practicable. llanchcriti, or ^,/«/Zi/Vy, is a small island 1^ milo long, and l.V mile off tho N.E. point of Coiba. To the S.S.E. of it is a sandy beach, where there is good anchorage, sheltered by a round and high islet. Wood and water are easily procured. A Frenchman formed a small settlement hero on tho South side. The channel between Coiba and Quibito is rocky and uneven, but is apparently safe. Afuera, or Canal hland, 4 miles E.N.E. of lianchoiia, is about midway between tho North point of Coiba and the shore. It may be passed on either side, tho only danger around it being a reef against its S.E. side, which has a black rock, always uncovered at its outer edge, 2 cables' lengths from tho shore. Tho islet Afun-ita nearly touches Afuora on tho North. BAHIA HONDA, "deep bay," is well named, and is an excellent natural harbour. It is 2;3 miles N.W. from the West end of Cebaco, and opposite tho North point of Coiba. Should that island over rise into importance, 15ahia Honda must be its port. It is easy of access, perfectly .sheltered, wood and water abundant, and easily procured, and is so safe that a vessel nuiy be hove down, or any repairs done, without fear or hazard. It was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher in the Sulphur, in 18;j'J, and it was also examined in 1854 by Captain do Eosencoat, in tho Ohligado. Sir Edward Belcher says:— '< On tho 4th of March, 18;39, wo moved on to Bahia Honda ; another of our stations in 18;57. Here we fell in with a few Chiriiiui Indians, sent to clear the land, but they were also very much afraid of having any dealings with us. "Wo fotmd this to be a most capacious, safe, and convenient harbour, completely landlocked, and perfectly adapted for refit, heaving out, &c., there being no tide or current. AVater was in abundance at the beach, and nothing wanting but a town and civihzation to render it a favourite resort ; timber of every kind, and the best abundant. The islands at its entrance are beautifully adapted for defence, with but trivial labour. At this port we collected a large stock of parasitic plants in full flower, which continued 2o 20 COAST OF NEW GKANADA. to decorato my cabin for somo time, until forwardod to Euylaiid, wliero tlioy arrived in 42 days in good ordor. Senlinfln hhoid, whicli forms the southern point of the entrance, is in lat. 7043' 32" N., long. 89-^ 29' 1" W. It is small, and somo rocks lie around it to the extent of about a cable. Captain do Rosoncoat also shows a detached roof, about 2 cables' lengths to tho N.E. of it, which is not marked on Sir Edward Belflior's survey. A smaller islet. Conn, lies a short distance South of it, and both are separated by a narrow rocky channel from dqic Jahali. Guarida Point is tho North point of the entrance, nearly a mile Nortli of Sentinola, and tho depth between is tolerably oven all across, about 20 to 23 fatlioms. This depth gradually decreases within the bay to 12 and l.'i fa- thoms 1 1 mile within tho entrance up to Talon Island, tho highest point of which is only about 120 feet liigh, and boars E.N.E. from tho entrance. Talon is rather more than half a mile long ; off its N.W. point is a small island, Pueril; and off its South point is anotlier, J^spuda. TIioso separate Bahia Honda into two anchorages, Cliinche Pay to tlio westward, and Lnjanw Bay to tho eastward, tho former being moro extensive. Talon has but a shallow channel to tho North of it. Tho whole extent of tho inner bay is about o miles from West to East. At 2 miles westward of tho entrance is Medidor hland, and off tho South end of tins is Tmvha, or Pacora, a smaller island, bold-to on tho South side. Captain do Eosencoat gives tho following instructions for entering : — In coming to this harbour, after having mado out Muera in mid-channel off it, the island Medidor will be seen. It is of moderate height, and must bo steered for until the small islot, Tacora or Trucha, is mado out, lying close to the South point of Medidor. There is a passage on eitlier side of this islet, but it is best to leave it to port, as tho northern channel is narrowed by the rocks off Medidor. Then steer for Guarida Point, or rather more to southward. Tho entrance to the bay is easy, although it does not make out well at a distance. To tho right, close in-shoro, is Scntincla hid, which should be avoided on account of tho rocks which surround it ; and to the left is Point Guarida, which is quite clear, and may bo ranged close-to. When past this point, boar up to port, and make for a round wooded islet, Chindw, lying in the N.N. W. part of tho bay, and anchor in II to 14 fathoms, muddy bottom, sheltered from every wind. The bay is separated into two parts by an island named Talon, to tho West of the anchorage. The only population of the bay consists of a few Indian families on this island, from wliom eggs, fowls, cocoa-nuts, and bananas, may be got at a cheap rate. They are also the most expert turtle catchers, and will furnish a largo quantity daily. Fish also is abundant. To the eastward of tho island the extensive mud-banks, which uncover at low water, leave only a narrow space for anchorage in 5A fathoms, but this is unimportant, as there is nothing to induce a vessel to come into this part of the bay. The » ' ■ jfijirf, ! m n^ n. » > <■ . > ^ ^ iiul, whcro llipy tranco, is in lat. C3 lio around it lows a dotiicliod marked on Sir distance Mouth im Cdjje Jalnili. milo Nortli of , about 20 to 23 12 and 1:5 fu- lighest iJoint of n the ontranco. oint is u small TIioso soparato rd, and Lrr/amo ilou lias but a innor bay is ilio ontranco is icora, a smaller !S tho following in mid-cliannel light, and must out, lying closo or sido of this 01 is narrowed rather nioro to s not make out t, which should [ to the left is ose-to. When [ islet, Chinc/w, ithoms, muddy m, to tho West a few Indian I bananas, may catchers, and the eastward r water, leave 1 unimportant, the bay. The HATHA HONDA, ETC. 21 only dangers to point out arc a rocky reof a littlo above tho line joining I'oiut Ponot and Puoril Islet, at 1} cables length from tho last ; and another reef at the same distance North of Ouarida Point, on wliicli there are only S feet water. The Oblitjado's anchorage was with Point (ruarida 8. 40^ W., Sentinela Islet S. \r W., Espuelii Islet, 8. 83 E., ('Iiiiulio Islet, Wost p(.int N. l.l^ W. Captain do Koseneoat made tho positiim of tiiis anchorage of the Obligado, opposite Pueril, to bo lat. 7" 11' ii'l' N., long. 8P lil' 0' W. High water, full and change, at 3'' 30'" ; tides rise 12 feet. Water is al)undant, and there is a stream, tlie Jrroi/o \\o\\h is doriv,.il IVoni Captain do liosencoat's imniphlot, adapting it to Sir Edward liolcher'.s survey. From whatever dirocti(jn I'uoblo Nuovo Is approached, it is easily made out by tlio two liills or Jfurros, tlio Cai/a,/.. //,//,, on the Soutii sid.' of tho cn- Irance, wliicli, at a disfam c, make like two islands. A conspicuous sugar- loaf liill, about .') miles North of tho cntniiicc, is also a good mark, as it stands alone, and is 5->() feet liigh. The two Cayado ]lills are -'JDO and •!()() foot Iiigh. On a nearer view, two low and wooded i.slands come iit sight, Silnt (Ir Afiuni, tlio Muiinetic hlaml of Sir Edward lielciior, and .V/Av? ih Tii-rru, or Silla hiand, which lie nearly East and West, .'! miles apart, in a line with tlio entrance of tlio bay. The eutrancoof tho river is formed by a low mangrove island, as before stated, which Captain do IJosoncoat calls rorcada. It is about i miles long N.W. and S.E., and has a former channel to tho river to the N.W. of it, but this is now only passable by boats. The .southern entrance is close around Cape Cayado, between that point and a spit projecting a mile to the W.S.W. from Ik'ltlre Point, the South extreme of Porcada, and whieli, as it uncovtu-s at low water, acts as a breakwater to tho channel. Capo Cayado is so name ' 'I'V :5<) . V,i\\A. »b lloscncoiit iiiakoM Torilono or lutruHa Island to bo in S' l' o I' N., long. 81^ 13' . It is hi-h wntor, ou full and diangf, iit ;V' 10'" or iV' 1 1" ; rise from U to 12 i'uut. (lood water may ho jirocurod from a 1)rook whidi falls into tho snmll )>ay on tho East sido of ( 'apo ( 'ayndo. Tho bay is inhabit. 'd by a ft'W Indians in ranchos or Jiuts, scattered alon^,' tho boach. Simio eggs, fowls, yogotables. and tropical fruits may bo obtained. There nro a number of small villaj^vs on tho uumorons affluontF which fall into the river, but by fur tho lar^-'.^t is cm tho stream which gives it its name. At ono time it was on an ominenre only 2 miles from tho 15oca Urava, and was then called Lox Jli'iiinlio100 inhuLitants, among which arc a small number of Europeans, and in 1851 two Eronchmon, who had erected a saw mill. On all tho islands and all visits to the shore, bo exceedingly cautious against a most venomous species of serpent, which is very numerous, and whoso bito is fatal. Leaving Pueblo Nuevo is as easy as the entrance. It is best to have tho land-breeze, and start a littlo before the ond of tho flood-tide. Having got l)eyond Cape Cayado, pass on to the southward of Silva do Tierra, and then take any route at pleasure. It is not advisable to pass inside Silva de Tierra, ou account of a long spit of sam' and rocks which extends from its North side. From tho northern entrance before described, on the north-western side of which is tho low island Ksjxirta/, tho coast trends to W.N.W. for 23 mih^s, for tlu! lirst 18 of which it is composed of narrow sandy beach, behind which is a lino of forest, intersected hero and there by tho mouth of a river, which are recognisable afar oif by the whitened and bare trunks of tho mangroves. About a dozen miles inland is a range of hills, the last steps of the racific Cordillera, between which and tho sea is a wooded plain. Heyond tho above limits the lulls approach the sea coast, which is otherwise quite safe to ap- proach by tho lead at u distance of 2 or 3 miles. Tho coast then turns ab- ruptly to S.S.W. for 4 miles, forming a peninsula, off tho S.E. point of which are tho Jienado Inks, which consist of ono larger island near tho point, and three smaller on one bank farther to tho eastward. I'oint OJu of Do Rosencoat (the iV Jnco Point of Captain Wood) 3 miles West of tho eastern Benado Islands, is the south-western extremity of a peninsula whi( h ftmns tho eastern limit of Chiriqui Bay.] THE SKCAS ISLANDS. 8A lio clmtmol KiiHt nl' tlio rivov, or i> South Hiilo i>l' oti^(. Kl ■ JiV ;i(t . . ill H' r '»r N., ;'• 10'" or .'J'' H'"; to tho small I'.'iy a few Iiitliuus in iwIm, vpgotalilt's, )i' Hiuall villiij^t's ill- tho lar^i'st is I on an ouiiucncc fMH lli-uii'dio-i, — a ) harbour. Tho iiativo [julilaiu'c. -100 inluiLituutH, two Fronchmon, 3it8 to tho shore, f serpent, which bust to have tho le. Having got riorra, nnd then inside Silva de extends from its )rth-wostern side .W. for 23 mih^a, ch, behind which of a river, whidi if tho mangroves, ps of the Pacific Jcyond tho above ijuito safe to ap- t thou turns ab- ho S.E. point of d near the point, J'uint OJu of De les "West of tlio I peninsula whi< h The SECAS ISLANDS lio on the meridian of S2 W. at II miles off tiie coast. Tho ^roiip consistH of three principal iNlands, with numerous rock** and islelM, one (if whicth is .'» miles nortliward of tlieir southern odf^e. With one exception thi- islands are ((uito (^ufe, and tliev will aM'ord Hliolter to a small V(!ssel, and several of them are accessible, but there is no fresh Mater, as ihcir mime indicates. A vessel becalmcil or at nightfall miglit seek shelter safely here when npproaihing David Ibiy in 12 fathoms, sandy bot- tom. At 2.1 miles N.E. of the largest island is a mcL- dird.i/i at high Mater, tint which is ([uito uncovered at low Mater. It is ca'.lid /m Jimjii. There is a wide-spread tradition that at tho period of the S|ianish coiii(uesl, some Indian refugees buried some treasures on the northernmost of tho largest island, and this is in some measure borno out by the discovery of several ancient implements and other objects. The Chiri(iui coast, as this part is called by Captain de Rosoncont, is f,onted by a largo group of islan] miles asunder East and West. Off Juco or Ojo Point is an isolated 'ick ' noM-n by a clump of trees on its summit, nnd tho point may also bo known by tMO small islands, Silla or Ihinillada, which from tho South have tho appearance of a saddle, as the name indicates. Tho rinda Rod; (tho WidoM') lies 3 J miles to the southward of El Juco, and is a largo flat rock, with a reef extending half a milo to tho E.8.E. It is quite steep-to on all sides, having from 8 to 13 fathoms all around it, and may be seen at a distance by day, as tho sea breaks heavily upon it. At Iom* Mater four pinnacles aro uncovered, one only being visiblo at high water. A sunken rod; is said by the natives to lio rather to tho West of tho line joining tho West end of Yiuda Kock and the Secas, about midway betMeen, * Tlip charts iiml divoctior.s i'or this part iifTord an example of what sliould be avoiiirJ. I'lii' island was well and cari'fiiUy mu'voyed by Commander Wood in ISIS, hut this lint- chart witli all its details was not puhlislail till th'iihvn ijiiirs later. In tho nicau lime tho l'"irnch ollicers in tho Obtigmlo, commanded by Capt. Kuiixo d(! Itusoncoal, also surveyed it, in KS.Jl. Tho French survey has not the slightest allusion to its predecessor, and these two (halts differ entirely in their nomenclature, &c., so that Capt. de Uosencoal's directions are almost Hnintellinilde when used with Capt. Wood's chart, which is (luitc .suiliciiint ol' itself as a i,niidf in this most unfrctpiented rejfion. Wo have followed, in some deforce, the French vlirections, givini^- ('apt. Wood's names. 20 COABT OF NEW GEANADA. ■wliicli would place it about ;:• miles S.E. from tlio Viuda, It has been Txn- succeasfuUy souglit for, but it vas said to show but vei-y rarely. In coming from the East, do not jmss to the northward of the Ensillaila or 'Monitas Islands, on account of the strong currents. Leavo them on tlio starboard ! ..ml, ranging doao to them if desired. Coming hero from the Rouiliward, take care to avoid the Viuda. a ad when abroast of it to the West, steer for the Sun Josa Mawls, a cluster of four wooded iahits united by a roof. Tlicso arc also safe, except a spit which run.s off tlieir East point. Guarding against this, nlso keep a good lookout for another insidious danger, the Jtwii Bod. This rock is of small extent, lying in tiio middle of the bay, and uncovers at half tide, and does not show at nil at high water and in fine wcatlier ; neither does the load give any sign of its proximity, for tiio usual deptli of 7 and 8 fathoms is foimd close up to it. It lies l] mile N. oO E. fronr the summit of Han Jose, and 3] miles N. G4- W. from the :Monilaa or Ensillada. There is good anchorage to the N.E. of this in the fine season, but during the period when the S.W. winds prevail, it will be better to get under the lee of the San Josi' Islands, At the head of the bay is a lino of islands rimning generally E.S.E. and W.N. W. According to Capt. do Eosoncoat their names are, going from East to West, Monita (this name is given by Captain Wood to the outermost cluster) Mono., C'«r«y (Carre of Wood), Bajo llajailo, Saiiw, and Vndaua; to the North of the last is the East end of the larger island, Bruva, extending 7 miles to the M'cstward, and along the northern face of which Is the channel leading to David. The bay within this line of isla7ids is inaccessible to ships. But it is probable that there is shelter between the second and third islands West of EI Juco Point, which is called the I'hwt:, Grande. At the head of this bay is another called the Ensenada dc CkuchkaH or Chxcheijal , on the plains around which are numerous herds of cattle, Avhich can bo pur- chased direct from the owners. The Boca Chica, or entrance to the river, lies between Ventana and Saino. It may be known by some rocks on the extremity of the former, being pierced through by the sea at its base, so as to have the appearance of a window or ventana. Tlie passage is very narrow, and in taking it keep close to Saino, and guard against tlie Lavandcra Bock, which is quite covered at high water, lying l.V cable off Ventana. Tiie water is very shallow within t'lo point, and is M^ ' THE PARTDAS ISLANDS. 27 da. It, has been nn- 1 rarely. -ard of the Ensillada Ijeuvo them on tlio oming licvo fi'uni tlie oast of it to tl 10 West, alots united by a roof. iJast point. Gnardinp; insidious danger, the niddlo of the bay, and gli water and in fine iximity, for tlio usual lios 1,1 mile N. oCr E. '. from the Monilna or Kis in the fine senson, it T;vill be better to get generally E.S.E. and 3S are, going froio East I'^ood to the outermost ioirn, and Vi'nlanu ; to ul, Bruvn, extending 7 f Avhich Is the channel ajids is inaccessible to n the second and third 'laza Grande. At \\\v^ chkan or Chuchegal , on le, Avhich can bo pur- on Ventana and Saino. of the former, being e the appearance of a and in taking it Iceep ■which is quite covered r is very shallow within s, and cannot bo taken El J'ozo (the well), and 3 of Boca Chica (or the It consists of about a . bananas. Fresh pro- ) bought here cheaply. 3Z0, but it is not conve- made the sandy J Jay on the South side of SaVno in lat. 8^ 11' 52' N., long. 82° 12' 8' W. Greenwich. Tho tides were regular, the greatest rise was 1 1 feet, the least 6 feet ; high water at 3'' 15'". David is tho chief town of the province of Ohiriqui, and lies about 25 miles from tho sea by tho eastern channel, or 10 miles by tho western one, and to go thither in a boat a pilot is indispensable on account of the in- tricacy of tbo channels. It stands in a fine plain, and is siinvninded by )ay trends to the N.N.E. and to AV'.S.W. from this island. Off its S.E. point is Deer Mam(, the S.W. point M-as made by Captain Wood to lie in lat. 8 10' 13' N., long. 82- l.r 40'W. The PARIDAS ISLANDS are a group at the western extremity of those described as lying parallel to tho coast and the chain of mountains which runs through the isthmus. They consist of one large island, Parida, about 11 miles ciroumforcnco at tho West end ; another, much smaller, Bolmio or Volano, near the eastern part of the cluster, and a crowd of islets and rocks between the two. They are uninhabited, except during the season of the pearl fishery, when a few people come to them. J'arida is well wooded but not high, and is the only one of the group that iitt'ords water. According to Captain de Eosencoat, the only anchorage is in tlie X.E. of the largest island, and is sheltered by that point, and by another small long island {Ma Garni), which shehers the road from the South, and where there is a good sandy beach fo/ landing, the depth 7 fathoms mud. To rea<'h this ancliorage from the eastward, and being South of the Benado Islands, steer westward for the North point of Parida, taking care not t.» go into leas than 5 fatlioms on the port hand. The islands whicli run to the eastward for 4 miles from the South end of Parida terminate in Bolano (or Volafio) and Baraco to the S.E. of it ; these are the largest, the others are imimportant. At three-quai'ters of a mile South of Baraco arc some rocks, and there is also another at 1.^ mile E.N.E. 28 COAST OF NEW GRANADA. of it. ISfidway botwoon IJolaHo .-iml San Jost- Island nro a clustor calliMl I.eiiiirtes hlamh in Captain "Wood's cliart. C/iimniu JJiii/ is at tlio 8.W. ond of Purida, and lias a lino of islands strotchinf? to tho N.W. from its southern iioint, tlm ontorniust of which is called Sta. Cruz. Tho watering-placo in Chimmo I$ay is in its N.E. point. There is a channel around tho North end of Parida, but olf tho North ond of the island it is very narrow, though deep. From 8a>i((t Cruz Point, tho ,S.W. end of I'arida, to tho Jioat S:iii JWro, wliich is a more direct opening to tho river loading to David, is 11 miles, the interval being occupied by ])anks over wliitli the sea break's heavily and the water vory shoal. On the I]ast side of tho Boca San Pedro is tho Mi kierilld, separated from Isla Brava before mentioned, by the P.oca Prava. On Sevilla abundance of game may be procured, deer, goats, iVrc. Although tho natives say that the Boca San Pedro is in-acticablo for boats, yet the French sur- veyors arrived at an oiiposite conclusion, and that tho Boca Chica was the onlj' ono advisable. The Coast between Chiriqui and Burica Point forms an extensive bay ?A miles wide. The nortli-castern part of tho bay is formed by a series of islands formed like those of Chiriqui just described. Tho island of San I'cdru is the westernmost of those which belong to the Piver of David and the coast f ontinuos a regular curve, first to tho northward of West and then to the southward, getting higher to tho southward till it terminates in Point Burica. There is no port or place of resort, although native report points out two or three spots of local importance ; of these, OminaruHo, at the entrance of u river a])0ut 15 miles North of tho point, is one ; another is Chann Azul, also at the mouth of a river some miles to tho South of it. These place.s, and tho coast generally, aro quite safe as open anchorages. The Ladrones (or Zedzones of Colnott) aro two islets or roclcs, moderately high and l)arren, lying 1.') miles S.S.W. from tho S.AV. point of Parida. They are very steep-to, and 70 fathoms are found close to their southern edge. They are quite safe in all directions, except to tho North, where some rocks lio a mile off. At 4 miles North of tho Ladrones i.s a dangerous reef, Aviiich does not even show at low water, when there is (iA feet water ovit it. It lies with tho West side of Parida bearing N. ^ E., and the East side of the Ladrones bearing South. Montuosa is a lofty wooded island, completely isolated, 20 miles S.S.E. of the Ladrones and 22 miles West of Coiba. It is safe, except some rocks to the East of it, and is a good mark for approaching the coast. Colnett says; — "It rises to a considerable height, and is 5 or miles in circumference, its summit covered with trees; tho greater part aro those which btHir the cocoa-nut, which gives it a very pleasant appearance ; but a cliistor (allod lino of islands iiost of wliicli is 1 its N.E. point, f tho North 011(1 Boca Shu Pedro, is 11 luilos, the heavily and the i tho hla Scvilla, ava. On Sevilhi ough tho natives tho French siir- i Chita was the xtcnsivo bay HI [ by a spvies of md of San Pedro •id and tlieooast and tlion to the [nates in Point points out two lie ontranoo of u 'hareo Azul, also I places, and tho clcs, modoratel}' loint of Pavida. I tlipir Rontliern B North, wlierti •h does not oven It lies with tho if the Ladrones ; miles .«.S,E. of t some rouks to 5 01' miles in part are those ppearan(;e ; but C().STA KICA. islets and breiilvcrs oxti iid otl'its lOast and West ends, to tiio distanco of ;5 or ■1 miles. Tlio liottom is rocky on tho ^outh side, as is tiio .shoro near tho sea. There is a beach of sand behind some littlo creeks that run in between the rocks, Avhich makes a safo landing for boats. Here wo Mont on kIkjic, and got a quantity of cocoa-nuts, with a few birds. Tho Spaniards or Indians liad lately been tliere to fish on tho reef for pearls, and had loft groat heaps of oyster-shells. Thero wero a great plenty of parrots, doves, and iguanas ; and it is probable that other refreshments might bo obtained, of which we arc ignorant. At all events, it may be useful to whalers or cruisers, by olforing a placo where the sick may bo landed and cocoa-nuts procured, Avhoso milk will supply tiio want of water." POINT BURICA or Burrica is the western limit of tho state of Now (rranada. It makes afar off like an island with thrco summits equally elevated and distant from each other ; on noaring tho capo another low point is made out which seems at first like an island, btit is afterwards seen to form part of tho point. To tho soutliward of the point lireakcrs extend for a mile, and terminates in this direction by a large, high and isolated rock, which forma an outer beacon. The capo may bo seen in clear weather o.) miles off, and is thus an cxeellont landfall for ships coming either from I'dstward or A\estward. Tho tcrriiorij of Ihirica, 'according to Mr. J. II. Smith (18.V1), does not belong to tho general government of Now Granada, but is exempt from .some of the imposts. It extends from tho Guanava)i'^ coa-if, on the East side of the Buriea peninsula, to tho Eio Claro, which falls into the Golfo Uulco. Tho toast between is an extensive region of cocoa-nut trees, 21 to 25 miles in lengtii. But this thinly populated and uncivilized region has but littlo claim to exact political or social divisions, and its nomenclature and inland features are alike vaguely known. Tho exclusive claim of Now Granada to tho transit route across tho isthmus has led to moro attention boing paid to its boundaries than they otherwise deserve. 2. COSTA EICA. Tho state of Costa Rica is one of tho smallest in area and population of the Central American Ecpublics. It extends from Point Buriea to a point somewhere about Salinas Bay and the Lake of Nicaragua, but in this northern part a territory is claimed which is disputed by Nicaragua. It belonged to the latter state when the confederation was formed in 1820, and was then conceded to Costa Eica to give it weight in the federal congress. But Avhen the confederation was dissolved, it is contended that it should have reverted to the original state. This district of Guanaeaste, now called Liberia, includes several of tho pi'oposed termini of tho intcv-oceanic canals -X!5«Pr*«»S=5a*a««*-5«'?«r5?^i"a^.''Jl^'^"'S^ 30 THE COAST OF COSTA EKJA. and railways, and this }^ivcs it. an importance it does not othcrwisn poKsoss. lu 18.')(; it was usually considered that Costa Rica terminated on the I'acilie coast, on the North side of Salmas Bay. The soil of Ccsta Eica is exceedingly productive. On the " ticrras culi- entes," or torrid lands, which run back from the Pacific up to an elevation of .'.i, (too feet, almost all tlio tropical productions aliound. Ahove th?H0 are the " lierras tomjdadas," which are terraces making out from the main Cordilleras (following very nearly the longitudinal axis of the stato in a north-west and south-east direction), and are from ;5,000 to r),000 feet above the level of the sea, producing sugar-cane, potatoes, corn, coffee, oranges, &c., in great perfection. Still above the terras templadas are the tierras frias, or cool lands, which are from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above the ocean level, among which several volcanoes shoot up, varying from 8,000 to 1 1,000 feet in height. The forests which extend over a large portion of the republic, abound in timber suitable for ship-building; also mahogany, brazil, and various other valuable dyc- A\'00(ls. The cultivated portion of Costa Eica lies principally within the valley of the Eio Grande, which Hom's down tho western slope of the main mountain range into tho (iulf of Nicoya. Fully .seven-eighths of all the inhabitants arc hero concentrated, in a district not exceeding fifty miles in length by au average of twenty in breadth. The Coast from Point Enrica trends generally to tho north-west, and is as before stated low, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. There are no places of intt'rci>t, and only four Indian villages on the space of 25 miles between that point and Point Platanal, near the entrance of the (folfo ])ulce. At -"i or G miles from the South point is a projection called Punta Gorda. The inti;r- mediate coast has not been surveyed, but is believed to bo safe. A running survey of tho coast and harbours beyond Point Platanal, as Ikr as Istapa, was nuide by Capt. T. do Lapelin, in tho French corvette La JtrillcMc, m 18.!J2, and from his pan>_ ]>let the following directions are chielly taken. The GULF of DULCE lies JO miles to tlu^ N. W. of Pt. Burica. But very little was known of it till in lS4',.t a concession was made to a French com- pany, and in 1850 a plan of it was madti by M. Louis Cheron, and again in in 1852, when its shores and capabilities were examined by the officers under Capt. de Lapelin. From this it would appear to be one of tho best points of the old Spanish territory for European colonization, considering its fer- tility, healthiness, and safety of its navigation. Tho gulf is recognisable at a great distance. Its oiifer points are w(dl marked, and are 18 miles apart, East and West. Point Matapalo, on tJie West, is the South extremity of tlio peninsula and of the Cerro de Sal si Pucdes. It is high, steep, and covered with Iveea, ^i'ii ^. ■iie'..a*fc> .1 PUNTA ARKNITAS. 31 icrwjso possess. 1 on fho I'iu ific ) " ticrras cali- to an olovation .liovo tIr:so aro from tlio main tlio stato in a ,000 foet ubovo coll'ec, oranges, ol lands, wliicli ; wliich sovoral lit. Tlio forests timber suitable r valuable dye- in tho vallo}' of main mountain tlio inhabituntH in length by an •west, and is as lire no places of ,'s between tliat ee. At •") or la. Tho intnr- E'c. A running .8 far as Istapa, La l>rill<(n(c, m Jly tiiken. I'it'a. IJut very a French com- 1, and again in le officers under the best points idering its fer- recognisable at 18 miles apart, 3 peninsula and I'cd with treob, with some reddish coloured land-slips. At a mile E. by t^. of it is an isolated rock 10 or I'J feet high, easily seen in all directions. Ft. Platanal, tlio eastern point, is tho Soutli end of a promontory formed by the chain of mountains whicli separates tho los\- lands of 15urica from tho plain of the Rio C2!) feet) than those near it. This hill will indicate the riuita del Jlotiai. All tho shores of the entrance aro clear and free from danger; but in coming hitlicr it is well to make Cape ^latapalo, as th(> only habitations aro on the West side, at tho I'unta Arenitas, and on this side also aro convenient anchorages in case of being Ix'calmed during tho ebb, as throughout the gulf, except in tho liio Coto ]5ay, th(> depths aro 20 and uO fathoms at '1 to 1 cables from the shore, and then deepening to .OO and 100 fathoms. The outer portion of the gulf runs in a N. and S. direction 22 miles, with a breadth of IG miles ; beyond this it runs to N.W. for 25 miles to the foot of tho Cordillera, where it is 10 miles wide. From Point Matapalo to tlio Kio l{inc(m at its N.W. end, an extensive plain extends to the sloping foot of tho Corro di' Sal si Puedes. The shore is all low and wooded. To tho North of Pt. Matapalo is I'f. iJd Sombrero, and ;) miles further that of Tlnrilu. OU'thei^o two points are some rocks above water, those olf iSombrero e.xtend- iug half a mile, and oif Tigrito three-fourths of a mile. These are tho only (laagers in approaching Punta Arenita.s. PUNTA ARENITAS* is 9 miles beyond 1 :.\ del Tigrito. It appears to bo low and entirely ( ovevcd with wood. It is not until close to that the houses covered with palmotto trees and the liagstaif on the tare .sandy tongue is ; eon. At a cable's length East of the point is a c(n'al liank, whiili par- tially dries at low water. Its greatest breadth East and AVost is two cables, and it is twice that lengtii North and Houth. Its edges aro very steep-to, and small vessels can pas8 botwecn it and tho point. You may anchor to tho N.W. or to the S.E. of tho village. The latter is tho best for vessels making but a short stay, and they will hero get the sea-breezes and avoid tho excessive heat occasioned by tho shelter of tho point. To tako this aii- 'horage, bring the llag.staff or tho last cluster of houses to lioar W. by N., and tlio Pt. del Tigrito to South, at less than a mile from the shoro in 10 to 1 1 fathoms, bottom green mud. To reach tho anchorage North of tho vil- lage, having passed tho coral bank, bear to tho West, steering for an ostero (or creek), distinguishable from some largo trees with white trunks, with foliage only on the tops. As soon as the flagstaff or the outer houses bear E. of iS.E, drop anchor in about I(i~i fathoms, bottom of green mud. This * riinlii Ari'uitaH i.s tiilled l'uii(;i .Vriiiiis (Siiiidy point) oti mo.st, chails, but tliu distinc- tion is hero iiiudo thut it may not be confused with the more important rmita Arenas, tlu: chief port of tho republic, in tho CJiilf of Nieovii. 1 I .32 TJIE COAST OP COSTA KICA. inner juithorago is very good, and any repairs aiay bo dono in groat security, but if it is nocossary to hcavo down to the kcol it is bettor to go to El Goiato. To communieuto with the village, you can land to tlio North of the peninsula at fho entrance of a creek ; this point is so stoep-to that you can lay along- side as at a quay. Fresh provisions, in small quantities, may bo got at Tunta Arenitas. Firewood is also cheap ; bullocks aro to bo got at the hacienda del Tigre. The neighbouring forests aro rich in spars and timber, but you must cut it yourself. Water is to bo got at tho Eiver del Tigre, o miles to the north- ward between half-flood and half-ebb. The French company before alluded to intended to establish themselves on the banks of the River delTigre. A largo house built by them distinguishes the Point del Tirgre. It is higii water, full and change, at Punta Arcnitas at ;3'' lo'". Tho grc.itost rise is 10 feet 3 inches ; mean ri.^e o\ feet. Tho tides aro regular tliroughout tho gulf. Tao NouTH-EAsT siioHE of the gulf is formed by tho baso of the cordillcra, whicu entends from the Eio Eincon to tho Golfito. Its rugged slopes aro covered with an impenetrable forest, and Icavo but a very narrow beach hero and there. At !) miles N.E. by E. from tho Eivor Eincon aro tho Islotes, a small group composed of rocks and coral banks, on which tliey lisli for pearls and mother-o'-pearl. Tho Cordillera then runs for 21 miles E.S.E., terminating at the Ooltito. At •Ji miles from las Islotes is tho moth of tho Eio do las Esquinas, which traverses a largo and very marshy valley near the sea. At 10 miles E. 18-^ S. from Pta. do las Esquinas there aro some rocks indicating Cape San Jose ; around those rocks they fish for mother-o'- pearl. The Golfito entrance is 800 yards wide, and tho passage in mid-channel between tho high and well-marked point to tho North, and long narrow Bandy tongue to the S.W. has a depth of 5J to GJ fathoms. This sandy neck divides the Golfito into two parts, in either of which you may anchor, but if in the eastern part it is not advisable to bring tho houses on the point to North of W.N.AV. The Golfito is a landlocked basin, where you may heave down and careen, but unfortunately in all seasons it rains nearly every day, and storms are frequent. The watering-place is in tho North part of this small gulf, but the casks must be filled at low water, and floated off at high water. The Eio Goto, the largest stream which enters the Gulf of Dulce, is 7i miles southward of the Golfito. It is not navigable. From its mouth a bank extends to the northwards, which joins tho tongue which divides the Golfito. Tho coast is low, sandy, with a violent surf, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. To the southward of the river, the coast, though low, is clean as far as the Pta. del Banco, the S.E. point of the Gulf of Dulce. The Gulf of Dulce, during the tine season, is under the influence of the CANO I81.ANI>. .'];; in groat security, J go to El Goltitd. I of tlio peninsula ou can lay aloiig- Punta Arenitas. jiondd del Tigre. ; yo;i must cut it les to tlio nortli- ly before alludeil rerdelTigrr. A e. at 3" 16'" . The tides arc regular of the Cordillera, :igged slopes aro ry narrow beach )n aro the Islotos, icli llicy lish for 21 miles E.S.E., I the moth of the rshy valley near 3 there are some sh for mother-o'- 3 in mid-channel md long narrow MS. This sandy you may anchor, uses on the point where you may ains nearly every e North part of ind floated off at of Dulce, is 7i om its mouth a hich divides the tid covered with , though low, is f of Dulce. influence of the hinil and sea breezes (tho vira/on and torral), the former blowing from .S.M. to S.W. between 11 a.m. and nimset, when it is replaced by the terral blow- ing from N. to AV. Notwithstanding its hot and humid dinuito, the gulf is considered healthy by the natives, but this can afford but little evidence of its effects upon European colonists. The Coast beyond Punta Jlatapalo e.vtends for 20 miles to the "W.N.W. to the high and abrupt I'tn. Sal si Fucdes. It is a narrow and sandy beach, forming a largo cocoa-nut grove, behind which rises the Cerro. It is very steep-to, for at Icxa tlian half a mile off shore, in the shoalest part, there is more than 10 f'atlionis, a strong surf usually beating on this shore.* At the point Sal si Puedes the Cerro approaches the beach, and at less than a milt off the point is a roimd bare rock, called the Choncha Pelona, around wtiich the water is very deep, but you cannot pass inside it. From Pta. Sal si Puedes to Pta. Llorona the distance is 11 miles in a N. 47° W. diroctiou. Between these points is the Cunvcado, a large rock 35 foot high, at the outer end of a reaf composed of rocks above water. The irregularity of the depth and the colour of the water, and the breakers off slioro between the two points, seem to indicate danger near tlie land. Fta. Llorona is high, steep, wooded, and formed of cliffs partially covered with a rich vegetation, and a cascade falls over one of its perpendicular pre- cipices. Several islets lie within a few cables lengths of the point. Capo San Pedro is 3 miles N. by E. from Pta. Llorona ; near it is a rocky islet with a few shrubs on it, and joined to the land by a chain of rocks, which also project a cable's length seaward from it. This group shelters a part of the sandy beach called the Port de San J'edro, distinguished by a rock sur- mounted by a single tree. On this beach also in a small indentation called the Puertecilo de S. J'edro, are some ranches of Indians who come hither to find the purple dye. Cape Sail Jose is a spur of the chain of hills which overhangs the coast ; it may be known by a rustrado or a large green patch, bare of trees. CANO ISLAND is 10 miles to the West of Cape S. Pedro. It is mode- rately high and is level. At its N.E. point are a few breakers, and off its West point some sunken rocks extend for half a mile. With this exception, it may be approached on all sides, though it is not advisable to do so from the eastward, as the current drifts towards these last-named rocks. On the N.W. side is a spring and some banana trees, on a sandy beach, where the landing is easy, and where the bongos come to collect the caoutchouc, which is abuudaQt, on this island. * The name Sal si Tucdes (got owt if you can), applied to this beach, is said to bo derived from tho fact that the bongos which oonio hero to load with cocoa-nuts, though ulih; to land easily at times, havi; great difficulty and detention in embarking tlirough tho foimida« blc surf. North Pacific. D 34 THE COAST OF COSTA EICA. S : ' > The Rio Ajuja (kbouches in the anglo where the liigh hind of Cnpo Snu Pedro joins tho beach naming fo tlio North. It is the Lost slicltor that tlu^ bongos find between the Gulf of Duhto and tliat of Nicoya, nnd is the only place -whevi' watering is easy. To tho northward of this the coast is high nnd wooded ; its narrow beach is interrupted by tho mouths of tho Granndo and the Idraque, and beyond these is tho Boca Sierpe. To the North of these again is Fla. Violin, oil' which is a small wooded islet of the same name. At a mile North of this are the Hacnte Idets. The coast here forms tho narrowest part of tho isthmus, which separates the ocean from the head of tho Gulf of Dulce. From hence tho coast runs to the North for 22 miles, and is uniformly low and wooded. Inland is an extensive marshy plain, on which it is said is a largo hike, nnd is watered by tho Eio Burruca. Through this level const are four hoc as or mouths to tho river nnd the lake, and it is said by tho natives that these communicate with each other, so that a bongo entering at Sierpe can come out at any of thom, or at Puntn Mala do los Indios. At tho North end of the plain tho coast is quite clear and the depths diminish gradually. At Pmia 21 low, but is lined with breakers to 3 or 4 cables' lengths off abreast the small rivers Ui^tihrc and Ttmihre. Off Point Guapilon aro two rocks awash, ou which tho sea breaks ; they are half a mile ofif tho point, and have a depth of 9 and 10 fathoms between them and the point. At 4 miles W.N.W. is Ifemidura Ne, which shelti^rs the harbour of that name. Port Herradura is at the y.E. entrance to the Gulf of Nicoya. It is a horse-shoe bay, as its name indicates, facing the West, and is li mile wide between the "West point of Cano Island on its South side, and Herradura Point to tho North. CaHo Island is covered with trees, and has a reef all around it, which connects it with the shore. Tho northern point of the bay is also bold and rocky, and a reef skirts it on all sides for some distance, but tlio edge of this reef is steep-to, as is the case all round tho bay, and there- fore tho shores should bo carefully approached. A sunhn ruck, nearly awash, has been found in the middle of the bay since the survey. It lies with a house on tho beach bearing N.E. i' N. three- quarters of a mile, and tho pinnacle of Cafio S.W. by S. nine-tenths of a mile. At tho head of the buy is a watering-place, where excellent water may be obtained. Sir Edward Belcher says that twenty casks at a time may be obtained by rolling them into a small lake ou ihe leach. This lake was made to bo in hit. 9" 38' 30' N., long. 84° 30' 7" W. The anchorage is off this wutoring-place in b to 8 fathoms, but vessels may rido close to the shore by veering tho whole cable with a warp to the beach. The GULF of NICOYA was surveyed by Sir Edw. Belcher in the Jilomm iaJan., 1839. His fine chart has long been published. It was also exa- mined by Captain do Lapelin in La Brillantc, and wo derive much of what follows from that officer's remarks. CAFE BLANCO is the south-westemmoBt point of the bay, and is thus described by Dampier :— " Cape Blanco, is so called from two white rocks lying off it. When we aro off at sea right against the cape, they appear as part of tho cape ; but being near the shore, either to the eastward or west- ward of tho cape, they appear like two ships under sail at firsi view, but coming nearer, they are like two high towers, they being small, high, steep on all sides ; and they are about half a mile from the cape. This cape is about the height of Beachy Head in England, on the coast of Sussex. It is a full point, with steep rocks to the sea. The top of it is flat- and evon for about a mile ; then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent. It appears very pleasant, being covered with great lofty trees.'* * To tho westward of Capo lilanco a bank is marked on the charts ; Captain do Lapelin doubts its existence, but was unable to verify it. The coast Ihenco trends to N.W. It is stoop and densely wooded : the higher hills rarely exceed Cape Blanco in e^.-vation. Tho beach is of sand, separated by rocks into an infinity of bays, which will offer easy landing- places, 2i) V ' ^ II PU W - t V t "*'-^*^ ' ''^^ '' '' ^ "^ so THE COAST OF COSTA VACA. I I Tlio ontrauco (i) till Oulful' Nicoya is distinctly mariccd by Capo Bliiuco on tho "VVcst, and Point Ucrrudura on tho East, forming an opening .'iO miles wide. Capo Blanco is tho point that has been generally nuubi l>y keeping a little to the Kaat of its nioridiun ; but there in probably soino odvantago guincd liy making tho eastern sido as tho currents shift to westward, and tho distance would bo rather shorter. Capo Blanco may bo seen at 20 miles distance when to tho N.N.W., ap- ponring then liko an island, tho top of which is flat, and having near its centre n slight indentation. Several white patolics also serve to distinguish the capo from the land at tho back of it. Tho largest and lowest white spot is formed by an islet fjuito white, lying South of tho cape, from which it is separated by a channel a milo wide ; but it does not appear to bo detached until you arc within 10 or l.j miles. It is only when Cape Blanco is seen from tho West, or to tho North of West, that its true termination can be seen ; being much lower than tho surrounding land, it pi-ojects liko an island and falls abruptly towards tho sea. At tho same time a small needle-shaped rock will bo seen a littlo to tho South of tho islet. Tho I'ta. do la llerradura, which forms tho northern sido of tho harbour of tho same name, is a large rounded hill on tho high land. A large rocky .slet, covered with trees of nearly equal height with the point, lies off tho S. point, leaving a narrow impracticable passage. As far as the anchorage of Punta Arenas, the Gulf of Nieoya has no danger that is not visible. All tho points and the shores may be approached to within two miles. The islands are numerous, and some of them large ; they are covered with trees, but are uninhabited, and at present possess no interest whatever. Tho western part of tho gulf is nearly a desert, and tho ports which as yet have not been frequented, lio on the East side ; these are those of Horradura, Calderas, and Punta Arenas. The bay of Tarcoles also affords a good anchorage, where communication is easy with tho shore. The harbour of Herradura is a good anchorage, is uninhabited, and with- out any communication with the interior ; it has no other resources than an excellent and abundant watering place. C.VLDERA was the port of entry for Costa Eica till 1810, at which time its imhealthiness caused it to be abandoned for Punta do Arenas, notwithstand- ing its security, and its proximity to the capital. It is about 12 miles N.E. of Cape Blanco.* * Calderas possesses a peculiar interest at tho present moment, as it is said to bo tho ter- minus of one of tho inter-oceanic communications. According to a report, published in 186G, by Mr. F. Kurtze, C.E., director of the public works of Costa Rica, a waggon road from se;i to sea was just completed, starting from Port Limon, near Point Blanco, GO miles South of Greytown, on tho Atlantic sido, crossing tho summit level near Cartago, 5,118 feet above the sea, passing near Ban Jose the capitftl, terminates ut Calderas. It i.s a macadam- m rUNTA ARKNAS. 37 id by ( 'apo Bliiuco 111 oponiiig I'JO miles iiui(l(^ l>y koopiii}^ II ly some nilvantago ) westward, and tliu » the N.N.W., ap. nd liaving near its lorve to distinguisli id lowest white spot pe, from which it is lOur to bo detached ipo Blanco is seen termination can be ojocts like an island small neodk'-slmped ido of tho harbour nd. A large rocky point, lies off tho S. of Nifoya has no maybe approached mo of them large ; ; present possess no ly a desert, and the Kast side ; these are l)ay of Tarcoles also with tho shore, nhabitod, and with- r resources than an f), at which time its euas, notwithstand- ibout 12 miles N.E. PUNTA ARENAS,— In 18 10, Punta Arenas was declared a free port, and liiis Ix'come tlio most important commerfial place on all th(< cftast of Oontral .Vmcrica. It is tho only port of tho state of ( 'osta IJicn, which is frefpiented on tho I'acifio, and through it almost all its exports and imports pass, The sandy peninsula on which tho village stands shelters nn interior anchorage, called tho F.nfnro, into which, at high water, vessels drawing IIJ fout can enter ; to tlie South of it is a spacituis roadstead, with an avornge doplli of hi fathoms, which, althoii '■ .--ecuro in tlio lino season, rocpiiros some preiau- tions against tho summer winds. I'unta Arenas has a i)opulation of about 1,500. Its streets aro straight and regular, but disagreeable from tho sandy soil. They extend aloiii; the Estero, by wliich all communications with the outer road take place. In entering the Gulf of Nicoya tho only precaution necessary is to Img tlie eastern shore, for tho ebb tide, which runs to S.W. to the South of the Negritos, is less felt, and*' the depth, though groat, is less than on tho western side ; so that in case of a calm, or contrary currr>nt, an anchorage is more readily found ; or you may be drifted out of the gulf, or olso on to tho Negritos, near to which tho depths aro great. You may readily know them by a largo black rock in front of them, having the appearance of a sail. Soon after passing tho line East and West of tho Negritos, you will see be- tween these islands and that of San Lucas, two remarkable islets. Tho first of these is called ViiijaveH (the Jrcn of Sir Edward Belchor), is like a L-Ircus open to the East formed by perpondiiular rocks, crowned Avith trees, and surrounded by a beach of pebbles covered at high water. Tho socoikI is a conical, lofty, and wooded rock, sufficiently designated by its name Pu.i r/• (Sugar-loaf). Having made these islets, you will next discover the lighthouse rising from tho trees. It is on a yellow tower of several stages, elevated G6 feet above tho sea, and showing a fixed light, visible 10 miles off. At tho same time you will see, but much more to the left, a largo building, which serves as a custom-house. This is the most westerly build- ing, and nearest to the Tuntilla do Tunta Arenas. It is painted white, and covered with tiles, and near a cluster of cocoa-nut trees, the only ones on the peninsula. The custom-house or the lighthouse being well made out before being East and West with tho Pan do Azucar, steer so as to bring tho first not more North than N.N.W., or tho second to the North of North by West, so it is said to bo tho ter- a report, published in I Rica, a -waggon road Point Blanco, 60 miles lear Cartago, 5,118 foot 3rus. It i.s a macadam- ised road, 60 foot wide, with cut-stone liridges, and witli ample width for constructing a railroad over much of its course. Two caimh have also been proposed to terminate in the Gulf of Nicoyn, one from tin: river .San Juan, by the Eio San Carlos, terminating near Punta Arenas; and a second from the Lake Nicaragua hy tho Eio Nino, and the Rio Tempisque, which falls into tho head of tlui Gulf of Nicoya. Neither of these canal projects have been surveyed. I { : H .18 THE COAST OF COSTA lUCA. M to avoid tho banks of Viinta Aroiins, which limit tho road to tho Nurtli and West.* It will bo nocosanry to koop ciloao to tlio bonrings liero laid down, for to tho Nortli of tho Nopritos tho flood tido runs vory ntroiif^ly to tho W.N.W., and tho obb to IIS.E. ThoHo bunks, formed by tlio rivers Arnnjuoz and Baranca, are Bopnratod from I'unta Aronas by tho cliiinnol of tho Estoro, tho dopth and direction of wiiich chan^'o witli every tido. Havin^f approached the anchora^jo on tho foregoing lionrings, you must an- chor wlien tho Pan do Azuear bears S.W. i \V., or tiio CagavoB S.W. This position is a mile from tho Puntilla do Puuta Arenas, in a depth of 5 .J to (5.1 fathoms, fino sandy mud, and easy of communication with the village at all times of tido. A little farther to tho East tho bottom is bettor for holding, being more mud than sand ; the lighthouse will then boar N. 28' W., tho custom-houso N. 39' W., the Pan de Azuear S. 52^ AV., and tho Ciigaves S. 43" W. Theso anchorages may be taken during tlio fine season, or from November to June ; but during the summer they aro too near tho banks, as tho bottom is continually shifting from tho strong currents, and you may bo drifted on to the banks. The better position at tliis time wil' ho with tho custom-house to N.W. i N., the lighthouse N.N.AV., and tho Pan do Azuear W.S.W. in oj fathoms, muddy sand. It M-ill be as well to moor S.E. and N.W., to avoid the chances of fouling your anchor by tho ..ontinual swing- ing of the shii>. The anchorage of the Estoro cannot bo taken without a pilot. Tlio charges for this are G reals for each Spanish foot (10 l)-10 English inches) draught. The tides aro regular at Punta Arenas ; their maximum velocity is 1 A knots, and Iho average 1 knot. Tho establishment of tho port at Puuta Aronas is 3'' 10'", and the range at springs 10 ft. 2 in. Water is to be procured at tho Eio Baranca, 7 miles to the East of tho anchorage. The ba. can only bo passed botwooti half flood and half ebb. The river must bo ascended for a mile, until tho boat grounds, before which tho water is not fre-sh, and oven then ;s sometimes not very good. On account of the tides, not more than two trips can be nmdo in tho day. Fresh pro- visions are abundant, but live bullocks cannot be easily procured. Sea stock may frequently be procured, but not in large quantities. Eealejo offers greater advantages on this score. The healthiness of Punta Aronas is but comparative ; fever is prevalent throughout the year, attacking natives and strangers alike, but milder during tho fiiio season than in tho oppo- site one. * If tho lightliouse nor tbo town bo not made out Lefore hiiving passed t}io iniriiUel of the Pan do Azuear, and thus bearing to N. of N.N. W. or N. by W., it will bo necessary to fall buck again to tho southward before bringing theso marks on, for without doing this there will bo a risk of getting on to tho banks which project to the S.E. rUNTA AI?KNAH. ;»!) oad to tho Noi'tli onrings lioro laid vorv htrtiiifjjly to icil by tlio rivoi's ly tlio cliiiniH'I of M'itli every tido. jJl'H, you must nn- ftivoB S.W. ThiH ilopth of 5i to (J.l the villngo at nil ottor for holding, N. 28' W., tho I tho Ciigavcs S. season, or from near tho banks, ts, nnd you may I wil' he with tho 10 Pan do Azucar moor S.E. and wOntinual swing- Hot. Tho charges nchos) draught, ui velocity is U port at Puuta 1 tho East of tho d and hulf ebb. ids, before which ;ood. On account hiy. Fresh pro- procured. Sea itities. Eealejo Punta Arenas is .ttacking natives an in tho oppo- J tlio pariillel of tho bo necessary to full )ut doing this there Tiioro is no coasting trade in Costa Kica, as thoro is only one pnri open ou tlio Pacilic. Tho carrying trade along the coast of (-'eiitral America is eutirciy niouopolizod by tlio stramors of thr Panama IJailroad Cumpiiny, and although tlio I'xpcuso of lorwarding nierchaudiso by I'ananui is llirod times as much as by Capo Horn, still tho certainly and speed of the ouo will ultimately <|uito stipersodo tho other. Puntii Arenas was a froo port till January, ISCil ; since thou customs duties have been collected, but tho shipping dues have not boon altered. Those are dollars (i'l) for license, 1 dollar per man fur hospital dues, .J real (.'5f/.) pev ton lighthouse dues. Owing to tho partial filling up of tho harbour, vessels arc obliged to lio much farther oil than formerly, and thoro is some trouble in lauding, &c., at low water. AVith steamers, which arrive at all hours of tho day and night, much damage is done to the goods in tho launches by ruin and spray. The lighthouso is not in good order, and much reliance shoidd not bo placed on it. On account of tho deterioration of Punta Arenas, it was proposed to remove tho port to Tarcuks, a spot to tho eastward, and nearer to tho capital ; but it was negatived by the congress in 1861. The restrictive policy of tho Government has much reduced tho prosperity of tho port, which is now littlo moro than a depot. The COAST to tho north-wostward of Cape Blanco is almost unknown. A very imperfect survey of it was made by Mr. Hull, P.N., in IS.")!), and Capt. do Lapelin also made a slight sketch of it, but the two do wA agree. The coast is high and wooded, and has a beach of white sand interrupted at inter- vals by reddish coloured cliffs. Cupc O'uioucn of l)o Lapelin is marked on his chart at 18 miles from Capo Blanco, and ;5() miles farther is Jfurro Jfir- mo':o, but Mr. Hull did not observe anything prominent in these positions. Beyond them is Capo Velas, in lat. 10° l.T N., long. Hr 48' W.--- It is so culled from tho rock being somotimos mistaken for a suii.f * Wo lay along a (loop bay, and passed somo very romarkablo roclis or rocky islands, whito with green tops, tho Port of Matapala bearing 8. S.E. liotwccn that and these rotky isliinds a number of Kmall, high, whito rocks shot up, rosombling vcs.sels under sail : bearing ]■:., E. by N., and E.X.E., a little bay extending landwards, and called, as 1 suppose, from llioso littlo rocks, "Puerto Velas."— (?. U. Skiimer, Inq. t Cajitain do Lapelin says that he found neither point nor hillock notieiablo in the posi- tion assigned to Capo Vehis and tho Jlorro Hernioso, and in his passiigo from the North it vas not until ho reached lat. 9" 53' N., long. 85° 52' W., that is 21 miles farther South, and 12 miles West of that assigned to Cape Velas, that they saw a greyish clilV, slightly project- ing from tho line of coast, perpendicular, and surmounted by some trees. The sea broke on a reef at its foot, which extended a mile and a half. It also broko on the numerous do- tached rocks to tho South of a white sand islet, on whiuh two rocks stood, appearing liko 40 THE COAST OP CO.STA ETCA. I Tho BIGHT of PAPAGA.YO may bo said to commonco lioro, extending to tlio northward to Eeiilejo, being but a slight curve in tho gonornl line of coast. It is scarcely worthy of the name, but becomes more familiar from tho fact of tho peculiar winds experienced off' it called by tho name, Avhicli are elsewhere described. Sufhco it here to state, that tho jJfipcf/ni/o is a strong wind, blowing from N.E. to E. by N., with a bright, clear sky overhead, and a glaring sun, with a den.so atmosphere. At Capo Veins, Captain Sir Edward Belcher lost thepapagayo; "there- fore," ho says, "tho limits may be included in a lino drawn from Capo De- solado to Point Velas, and it is rather a curious phenomenon that tho .strength of thi.s breeze seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer n curve at a distance of lo or 20 miles from tho land." In passing the Bight of Papagayo it is considered best to keep at 5 or miles offshore rather than farther off; tlie squalls and calms are of shorter duration, and kss force at this distance than in the offing. Should this course be impracticable, a distance of 10 or 15 leagues should b(i taken. In pro- ceeding to tli(> Nortii tho wind will bo found to veer more to the East. Gorda Point,* according to the chart, lies 18 miles northward of Capo Velas, in lat. 10-' ai' N., long. 8.5-^ 43 J' W. At this point tho coast turns ab- ruptly to tlie E.N.E., towards Port Culebra. Off Point Gorda are several higli ]-ocks, tho two largest, which are clcjse together, are about 2} or a miles from the land, tho others lay principally more to tho North and N.E. ; they wero all high, and tlie smaller ones liavo very much tho appearance of upright tombstones ; others again, at first sight, appear like a ship under canvas. PORT CULEBRA was surveyed by Captain Sir Edward Belcher in 183S. spot at which he observed, at the head of the port, ho places in lat. 10" 36' 55" N., long, bo' 33' 30" W. ; variation 7^ 3' 54" E. Tlio entrance to the port is between tho Xurth and South Vlradorcs, some detached cliffy islands, li' miles apart. Between tho South Viradores and Cacique Point, to tho N.W. of which they lie, there is a channel of 5 to 10 fathoms ; but, as a rocky reef runs off a quarter of a mile to the West of the point, and some detached rocks lie South of tho Viradores, it should not be used. Cocos Bay lies to the southward of the South Viradores, and between Ca- cique Point and Miga Point, bearing S.W. by S. from the former: tho dis- tance is about li mile. These points are both rocky cliffs, surmounted by hills. Cocos Bay may be about a mile in depth within the line of opcniing. sails. This clift', called Capo Guionos (for tho locil pilots know no point undor tho name of Las Velas), is UO miles W.N. W. of Capo Blanco, and 20 miles West of the coast laid down on the charts. * Point Cutalina (of Bau/a) : from tho disjointed portions or islands, it mi-ht have caused that of Mureielagos to be mistaken for it.-Voyago of the Sulphm; vol. i, p. 185. monco liorc, extending I in the gonoral line of more familiar from the the narao, Avliich are 3 papagai/o is a strong ', clear sky ovorhoad, he papagayo ; " there- drawn from Capo Do- phonomcnon that tho ird, hut seems to prefer best to keep at 5 or 1 calms arc of shorter ng. Should this course Id he taken. In pro- loro to the East. us northward of Capo int the coast turns ah- rgest, whicli are dcjue others lay principally tho smaller oiie.s have others again, at hrst ard Belcher in 183S. ) places in lat. 10" 36' Tho entrance to tho letached cliffy islands, Cdciqiie I'uiiif, to tho fathoms ; but, as a the point, and some )t be used. )res, and between Ca- the former: tho dis- cliffs, surmounted by the line of opening. o point undor llio name of !st of t)io co.'ist laid down nds, it mifjht havo caimed •r, vol. i, p. 1 85. CAPE ELENA. •11 The bottom is formed by a sandy beach, off tho South part of which a lino of rocks runs North about a (quarter of n mile, and jinollicr small rock lies in its eastern part. It lies entirely open to the N.W. .b'm/*? l-'oitit lies a niilo and a half S.W. from Miga Point, tho West extreme of the bav, and midway between is a cliffy islet. To the eastward of Cociquo Point is a similar bay to Cocos Bay, having about the same widlli to Hifi'iiCt .Point, which forms tho South Point of Port Culebra, whicli extends nearly 1 miliHi within tho two entrance points, Buena and Mala, a mile asunder ; and is about two miles wide, tho depth oven, G to 18 fathoms, and anchorago everywhere. Port Culebra is certainly magnificent ; and from information by tho na- tives, it is connected with Salinas, and thonco to Nicaragua, (Trnnada, &e. If any. railroad is contemplated in this quarter, it ought to enter ai tiio l?ay of Salinas, which would render these two ports important. Water fit for consumption was not found at the beach, ^'Utmay bo obtained a short distance up the creek, -which a boiit may enter o^ high water. If wells wore dug, doubtless it would bo found at the N.W. side, as the sur- rounding country is mountainous. Another symptom in favour of tliis iii tho thickly-wooded sides and summits, as well as briglit green spots of vegeta- tion throughout the bay. Brazilwood is very abxmdant ; mahogany and cedar were observed near tho beach, but as tlicy have been employed cutting tho Brazil, probably all tho cedar and mahogany, easily attainable, has been taken. Timber, in groat varietj-, abounded. In tho bay, whore H.AI.S. tStarlhif/ was at anchor there was a largo village, where the natives wero anxious to dispose of their productions, consisting of fruit, stock, cattle, &c. The Murcielagos lio to the southward of Cape St. Elena ; thoir number is considerable. Two rocks lie to the West of the group moro than a mile oil", according to Captain do Lanolin, but they are not shown on tho Enfjlish nor the later French charts. Sir Edward Belcher says tho Murcielagos or ]3at Islands aro eight in num- ber, and almost form two distinct harbours, the smaller islands making a crescent by the South, one largo island protecting the East, and another of similar size forming the lino of separation. lie anchored in the inner or eastern harbour, and completed his water at a very convenient position, in 32 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore. The springs are numerous, and there aro tolerable rivulets ; but only that they watered at (between tho centre point and tho main) is safe to approach, by reason of the constant surf. The gulf S(|uall3, even in this sheltered position, come down the gullies with groat force, and impeded the work as well as endangered the boats. Tho geological character of tho cape and isliuids is a schistose serpentine, containing balls of noble serpentine. CAFE ELENA (or Sta. Elena) is 23 miles North of Oorda Point, and is !■ 42 THE COAST OF COSTA RICA, I! the western oxti-enuty of the peninsula which separutos the IMurcielagOH from Elena Bay. Ivieutenant Ijoucarut, who oxaraini^d this coast in tho Frencli corvette La VunHfantiiic, in 1859, uppHes this name to tho western point, and calls another projection 4] miles to tlio N.E. Foint EJena. They are each bold, but at one i-r two cables' lengths from the first point is a mnhm rock, and at a mile West of the second point is another, which require all caution in approaching Elena Ba}'. The peninsula, of \< hich these points are the West and north-west extremes, is like a long prism, tho sharpest angle uppermost. The ridge is much serrated, and on its North side is even and very stoop. It is quite barren. ST. ELEVA BAY (or Kkna Batj) is 9 miles to the eastward of tho inner point, and is about .5 miles wide in the opening. Its northern point is Point Descartf'-. at a mile duo West (tf wliich a sunken rook is marked on tho French cii«i't ; and a second i'ock, at a quarter of a mile in tlss same direc- tion. In tk»- S.E. angle .■<'" the bay is a waaller inlet, T()ma-< Baij, oj)en to the N.W., tJw'oe-quarterB of a mile wido at lihe entrance, iu which the depth is from 8 to 12 fathoms, wid jirobably affords anchorage and shelter from the S.W., particularly in a channel to the West of a penineula which separates its head into two inner l>ays. Tiiere are sevral islets in tho Elena Bay, of which T'aijares, lyin^ otf the entrance of T )mas Bay, is tho southernmost. At U mile North of this is a higher island, Juanilla; and at a mile S.S.]']. from Point Descartes is another, De.tpenm. SALINAS BAY ^'-as more exactly surveyed by Lioutvoant Boucarut, iu tho French vessel Connftipfiiif, in 1859.* Between Point, Sacnte, which is 2 miles N.N.E. of Point Descartes and Point Araiica Pnrha on tho Nitrth s' I<\ the entrance is 2 miles wide, and the depths 18 to 20 fathoms. From this lino to a narrow 8(indy beach at its head the depth of the bay is 4 miles, and the depth gradually shoalons to 7 and 4 fathoms. ^c« were well dotovniinod by Sir Edward JSelch.v, whose results have been ^^f^^^^^ ottim.. mion^ntudesof Captain d. Lapcliu -Mer from them by horn to8 f.u.hci tu wLvard; but. as the ohvouo.uetoi. of LaBmanU.^. not verified for .. months fvon. the n.1 dian f CaUao («o. from Fanunia). they ca^ot bo pvofen-ed to the ong, «des oota nod 7Zs.a,k.r. In the table of position., at tho c.mmcnceraent of th.B voluuic. tho best determinations mo prcfeiTcd. ( ' i: n h 4 ! ! 44 TIIK COAST OF NK'AKAGUA. ^1 I ifi! U'li 'It PORT SAN JUAN DEL STJR.-Thi.s portion of tho coast is interesting, on account of its proxin.ity to tiio nnvlgnblo Lnko of Nicaragua ; hut it is for this reason only, a. with tho exception of tho Tort of San Juan, called del Sur, to distinguish it from tho other San Junu in this state, at the moutli of tho Eiver San Juan do Nicaragua, in the Carihbean Sea, it scarcely possesses any harbour or foroign trade, except in dye-M-ood. The South bluff of Port San Juan is in lat. ir LV 12', Inns;. 8o= 53' Tho proposed communication Mith tho Atlantic, by Mr. Bailj,<= was to ter- minate here-a canal, loj miles in length, cut across tlio narrow .-act, separating this port froni the Lake of Nicaragua, which, with tho Eio Sau Juan, M'ould form tho navigable connexion. Mr. Stephens says : " Our encampment was about tlio centre of the liar- bour, which was the finest I saw in tho Pacific. It is not large, but beauti- fully protected, being almo.'^t in the form of tho letter U. Tho arms aro liigh and parallel, running nearly Nortli and Soutli, and terminating in high per- pendicular bluffs. As I afterwards learned from Mr. Baily, tho Avater is deep, aiid under either bluff, according to tho wind, vessels of the largest (•ULsscaii ride with perfect safety. Supposing this to be correct, there is but ono objection io tliis harbour, wliicli I derivo from Capt. D'Yriaste, witli whom 1 made tho voyage from Zonzonato to Caldera. Ho told mo that during the summer months, from November to IMay, tho r,tr(jng North winds wliich sweep over the Lake of Nicaragua, pass with such violence through the Gulf of Papagnyo, that during the prevalence of these M'inds it is almost impossible for a vessel to enter tho J.Vnt. of San Juan. " Tho harbour was perfectly desolate, for years not a vessel had entered it; primeval trees grosv around it, for miles there was not a habitation; I have walked tho slioro alone. Since Mr. Baily loft not a person had visited it ; and probably the only thing that keeps it alive, even in memory, is tho theorising of scientific men, or tho occasional visit of some Nicaragua li.slierman, who, too lazy to work, seeks liis food in the sea. It seemed pre- posterous to consider it the focus of a groat commercial enterprise; to ima- gine that a city was to rise up out of the forest, the desolate harbour to bo filled with ships, and become a great portal for tho thoroughfare of nations. But the scene was magnificent. The sun. was setting, and the high western Iioadlavul throw a deep shade over the water. It was, perhaps, tho last time in my lifo that I should .seo the Pacific, and in spite of fevor and ague ten- dencies, I bathed once more in the great ocean. • Mr. Daily, a British officer, was employed by tho government of Central America to make a .survey of this canal route, and had comi'^eted all except the survey of an unimpor- tant part of tho Rio San Juan (the outlet of the i.J.o into tho Caribbean Sea) when the revolution broke out. This not only put a slop to the survey, but annihilated the prospect of remuneration for Mr. Buily's arduous services. siimmm SHH ist is interesting, gua ; but it is for Juan, cnllod del , at the moutli of scarcely possesses !', long. 85= 53'. lilj,""'' ^vas to tor- ho jiarrow met, vitli the Rio Sau 3ntro of llie liar- irge, but beaiiti- lio arms are liigli ing in liigh per- il}', tho Avnter is Is of the largest rect, there is but D'Yriaste, witli lo told mo that jng North M-inds iolence througli inds it in almost isel had entered it a habitation ; t a person had ren iu memory, 3omo Nicaragua It seemed pre- rprise; to ima- harbour to bo fare of nations. high, western ts, tho last tiino and ague ten- antral America to 'J of an uaimpor- in Hen) when the ilated the prospect PORT SAN JUAN DEL SlIK. •15 " At 7 o'clock Y,e started, vocros.scd tlic stream, at wliicli we had procured water, and returned to tlio iirst station of Mr. Bully. It was on the river San Juan, IJ mile from tho sen. The river here had sufllciont depth of water for largo vessels, and from tliis iioiut Mr. Baily commenced his survey to the Ijako of Nicaragua." — Incidents of Travel, &c. AVhen Central American tran^iit route was established to assist tho trafRc to California, tliis lonely harbour assumed a different aspect. It was made the Pacifie steam packet port communicating with tho lino established from New York by tho way of tho Lake of Nicaragua and tho isthmus. The government of the state decreed tho erection of a city (CWco/Ww or rineda) on the shore of tho bay which forms the harbour. In 1852 this city consisted of a large encampment and a few wooden houses, pompously styled hotels, but on the al)andonmont of the transit route it sank to its original solitude. The shore in this neighbourhood is cut up into an infinity of bays or creeks. It is very steep-to, as you nearly touch the shore when in 14 or 10 futlioms. Troni the great similarity of these bays thci is some difficulty in making out tho Port of San Juan del Sur, which is most readily done by the bearings of tho volcanos of Momobacho, Omotepcc, JIadcira or Orosi, which rise above tho land like so many beacons. Momobacho is like that of San Salvador in all particulars. Its height, 42G5 feet, will not allow it to be seen iu every direction, except you are somo miles off shore. But the pointed summit of tho cone of Omotepec (in tho Lake of Nicaragua), 5000 feet high, and tho M'ell-marked saddle of the vol- cano of Madeira, can always be seen, iii clear weather, overtopping the hills nearer the sea. In favourable circumstances the volcano of Orosi, 8,0G5 feet high, with its two pointed summits, exactly resembling two turrets united by an immense ridgo can be seen. The prevailing winds, strung from the N.E., shift suddenly to E. or N.N.W. They rarely allow a sliip to reach the port without boating up to it. To gain all possible advantage, keep to the land, where the sea is (juiet. The bearings of the volcanoes will point out, at a distance, the position of Ban Juan del Sur, and when near it Omotepec will bear N.E. i N., or Ma- deira N.E. i B., or Momobacho N. i E. These bearings pass over the summit of u hill of a curved figure, and indented like tho teeth of a wheel. When within about 12 miles of tlie land, the points of tho bay may be dis- tinguished. The hill on the North side of the harbour appears like a large greyish patch on tho lands behind it. That on the South is like a round clump of reddish colour, and on tho continuation of the coast are three white marks, some distance apart ; these are three islel.s ireiiuented by ocean birds. Soon after the entrance is made out tlio ships at tlie anchorage will be seen, and then somo houses on tho beach. f 11 4C, THE COAST OF NICARAGUA. Vessels gonorally anchor outside the harbour in from 9 to 11 fathoms keeping over to the South point, as a rocky pat. h narrows the entrance on the Nor h sKle. The bottom is of sand and br.ken shells, and is not very good holding ground against the gusts from the N.E., and its groat declivity increases th. risk of driving, but at the same time this renders it more .afe during the gales from ^V. and S.W. The harbour is shut in by a small boy open to seaward, and as the bottom 18 he same as outside, but of indifferent quality, it is scarcely worth .;-hiIu entering, as communication is easy behind the heads of the harbour. Water IS procured from wells, but it is bad, scarce, and difficult to get. Except a few fresh provisions at high prices, there is nothing to bo procured here.- J)e Ltqm,n. Port Nacascolo, or Nagnmoh, or Plana Jlemom, lies almost adjoinin- to and to the N.W. of. Port San Juan, which it somewhat resembles, and,°like It, 18 only the resort of a i^yy natives occasionally. There is no village or town near It, and it never has been resorted to for general European com- laerce In its S.E. portion is a sort of canal, excavated for a short distance tofacihtate and shorten the transit of the local trade to the town and lake of Nicaragua, to whicli there is a road or pathway through the forest. A\hat ,s called from custom the Port of Nacascolo, is a little mud creek in a small stream thickly bordered with mangroves ; there is no villa-^o. Old Clunendega is about 4 leagues from the <'port," the road to it a narrow track through the forest, and is a neat little town for Central Amei-ica. Chinendega is rather a pretty town, with from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants, hnely situated in a rich undulating plain. It is one of the few towns in Central America which had increased since the independence, and is only 3 leagues from the Port of Eealejo, all the trade of which passes through it.- R. G. Bunloj), 1844. Northward of San Juan del Sur the coast trends nearly straight in a due N.AV. direction. As was stated in a former page, the district on the coast produces dye-wood, or brazil-wood, for which its ports are much frequented. Irom information received by Captain Eden, H.M.S. Vomcay, in 1835, the coast between Erito and San Andres was then much resorted to by vessels to load that article. The landing at some of the places is rather difficult ; but the anchorage is perfectly safe, particularly from November till May. The winds are then constantly from the N.E., though they sometimes blow very strong ; but the sea-breezes during those months never reach the coast Brito IS the first point of interest North of San Juan. It is 7 J miles North of Nacascolo, and is a small bay open to the S.W. It ^'s the terminus of a canal proposed by Colonel Orville W. Childs and Mr. Fay, civil engineers in 18O0-1 The narrow neck of land was well surveyed, and the canal was to leave the lake of Nicaragua by the Eiver Lnjas, opposite the island and volcano of Omotepec, and would require twelve locks to .ross the ^i^aration 9 to 1 1 fathoms, I the entrance on , and is not very its great declivity iders it more safe md as tlio bottom cely worth wliilo harbour. Water get. Except a procured here. — ost adjoining to, jmblus, and, like 3 is no village or European com- a short distance town and lake he forest. ;lo mud creek in 10 village. Old 1 to it a narrow lentral Amei-ica. )00 inhabitants, few towns in , and is only 3 08 through it. — raight in a due at on the coast uch frequented. ?y, in 1835, the ed to by vessels •ather difficult; mber till May. ometimes blow roach the coast. 7\ miles North terminus of a jivil engineers, '■ the canal was the island and the separation LAKE OF NICARAGUA. 47 into the Pacific. But the costly works rorjuired in the Atlantic at San Juan do Nicaragua and at Brito, besides all the intormodiato engineering diffi- culties, place the scheme beyond controversy, Brito was pronounced by competent authority to be in size and shape unworthy of this groat ship navigation . The coast to the northward of Brito was surveyed by Malasplna, but wo have no particulars of it beyond those given on Ban/a's chart. But as thero really is no point of maritime interest on it, this is of tho less importance. Mr. G-. U. Skinner says that after Brito follows Mffoie, an open nncliorago ; next CasarcR, olf the mouth of a river between some reefs. This, by the road, is 7 leagues from tho town of Ximotepe, and which is 12 leagues from Managua on the lake. Three leagues further along the coast is the road of Mmapa, and -H leagues further is the anchorage of JLisuchajm, to tho southward . f Point San Andres. Hero the Brazil-wood district terminates. Sir lOdward Belcher, in passing along to tho North, began to cxperienco gusts from the Lako of IManagua (no high laud intervening in its course), causing him to go under treble-reefed topsails, &c. ll>e coast trends, generally, to N.AV. by W., and tho position of these places is not marked on the charts. They are generally sandy beaches, separated by cliffs, against which the sea breaks with great violence. In about lat. 11° 55' the volcano of Momohac/nj, 4,2G5 feet high, will bo seen inland when at some distance off shore, as it is not high enough to bo seen over the land when close in. It much resembles tho volcano of San Salvador in appearance, nnd seems to be of the samo outline in all directions. The land within is very even on the summit, though not very lofty. Cape Dcsolada, an appropriate name, lies in about hit. 11° 58', and it soems almost in mockery that one or two stunted shrubs are allowed to stand on its summit. Mahogany and cedar grow in tho vicinity of the cape, and to the North of it is Tamarinda. Tamarmda is only an open beach, where the coast becomes somewhat lower ; beyond it, it risos again, and is called the Coda Tasca, forming a long sterile ridge. Off the coast the depths appear to be regular, Ifl to 17 fathoms, falling rapidly to 25 fathoms a short distance off. Behind tho coast just described are the great lakes so often mentioned, and of euch great interest in the project of connecting the two oceans, a a question now (1869) probably about to be solved by the intended canal by tho gulf and isthmus of Darien. The LAKE of NICARAaUA (or Granada) is a fine sheet of water, and, according to Mr. Baily's account of it, is 90 miles long, its greatest breadth is iO, and tho moan 20 miles. Tho depth of water is variable, being in some places close to tho shore, and in others half a mile from it, 2 fathoms, in- creasing gradually to 8, 10, 12, and 15 fathoms, tho bottom usually mud, 1 48 LAKES OF NICARAGUA. witli 11 ileptli of l.j iatlioms in the coiitro. Tho lovcl of tlio luko is 1U8 fuot 3 inches iiltovo that of the raeiflc Ocean nt low water, spring tides. Tliia basin is tho receptacle of tho waters from a tract of country G to 10 longuea in breadth on each side of it, tlirown in by numerous streams and rivers, none of them navignblo except tlio Eiver Frio, having its source far away in tlio mountains of Costa Itiea, wliich discharges into tlie lake a largo quantity of water near tho spot where the River San Juan flows out of It. The embouchure is 200 yards wide, and nearly 2 fathoms deep. TJiere are several islands and groups of i.slets in different parts of tlie lake, but nono of them embarrass th(« navigation, nor is tliis anywhere incommoded by shoals or banks, other than tho sliallow water in shore ; and even this is but very trifling, or rather it is no impediment at all to the craft at present in use, tho practice being to keep the shore close aboard, for tho purpose of ehoosing convenient stopping places at tho close of day, as they scarcely ever continue their voyage during the night. The largest islands on the lake are Omotepo, Madera, and Zapatera. Taken together, the first two of these islands are 12 miles long, and have gigantic volcanoes on them. Zapatera is almost triangular, and 3 miles long. Senate, Solentinanio, and Zapote, are smaller, and uninhabited, but some of them, and the last in particular, aro capable of cultivation. Near tho town of Granada there is the best anchorage for ships of tho largest dimensions. Tho Lake of Nicaragua is connected with that of Leon by means of tho Eiver Panaloya (or Tipitapa), navigable for tho bongos employed in that . country for 12 miles, as far as tho place called Pasquiel, where tlio inha- bitants go to cut and bring away Brazilian timber. The 4 miles which remain between tiiat place and the Lake of Leon are not navigable by any kind of boat, whatever may bo its construction, because, beyond Pasquiel, tho channel is obstructed by a vein of rocks, which, when the river is swollen, are covered with water ; but in tho dry season, the water sinks so low that it can only escape through gradually diminishing fissures in the rocks. At a distance of a milo beyond this first vein of rocks, Ave find another more solid, which, crossing tho river at right angles, forms a cascade of 13 feet descent. The River Tipitapa, which discharges itself into the Lake of Nicaragua, is the only outlet for the Lake Leon. The lands bordering this river are somewhat low, but fertile, having excellent pasturage; as at Chontales, they are divided into grazing and breeding farms. All this country, covered with Brazilian timber, is scantily inhabited. The only village is that of Tipitapa, situated near the above-mentioned waterfall. The Lake of Leox or Maxaoua is from 32 to 35 miles long, and IG miles at its greatest width. It receives from tho circumjacent lands, chiefly from luko is 128 foot ■ tides. country 6 to 10 lus streams nnd ig its source far tlie lako a largo flows out of it. !02J. Tliore are lake, but none incouimoded by even this is but 't at present in tho purpose of ey scarcely ever and Zapatera. long, and have r, and 5 miles ^inhabited, but ation. )v ships of tho 1^ means of tlio iployod in that . hero tlio inha- 4 miles wliieh vigablo by any ^ond I'asquiel, >n the river is water sinks so fissures in the rocks, wo find orms a cascade of Nicaragua, this river aro at Chontales, untry, covered age is that of , and IG miles 3, chiefly from EEALEJO. 49 the eastern coast, a number of small streams. According to Mr. Lawrence, of H.M.8. Thunderev, it is not so deep as that of Nicaragua. Tlio Lako of Managua is 28 foot 3 inches abovo that of Nicaragua ; and, according to M. Garelln, the diflbrouce botwoon h'lih water in tho Pacific and low water in tho Atlantic is 19 A foot. In the proposition for making use of these lakes, it is stated that tho ground is perfectly level between tho head and Eealojo, one of the best ports on the coast ; but tho distance is 60 miles, and to Mr. Stephens the difficulties seemed to be insuperable. Sir Edward Belcher is of opinion that there is no insurmountable obstacle to connecting the Lake of Managua with tlio navigable stream, the Estoro Real, Ming into the Gulf of Fonsoca. The principal noticeable points on tho shores of the Lake of Nicaragua aro the city of Nicaragua and the Omotepeque Volcano, .'i.O'lO feet above the sea. Mr. Stephens says it reminded him of Mount Etna, rising, like tho pride of Sicily, from the water's edge, a smooth unbroken cone to the above Iieight. Leon is tho capital of tho state of Nicaragua ; it was formerly a place of importance, with a population of 32,000 souls, but has been since greatly reduced by anarchy and other distracting circumstances. It is situated on a plain about 40 miles from Eealejo, 10 from the sea, and 15 from the Lake of Managua. It carries on some trade through Eealejo. The house-s are de- scribed by Mr. Eoberts as very similar to those of Guatemala, none })eing ftbovo two stories high. * The Plain of Leon is bounded on the Pacific side by a low ridge, and on the right by high mountains, part of the chain of the Cordilleras. EEALEJO is the next place in proceeding north-westward, and is one of the most important ports on the coast, and has in consequence been more frequently visited and described. It was, moreover, minutely surveyed by Sir Edward Eelcher, in tho Sul-phur, in 1838, and was visited by Captain de Lapelin, in Za Brillante, in 1852. Behind Eealejo, in the midst of the plain of Leon is the volcanic chain of 2Iarahios, which commences at Momotombo, near Lake Managua, and ter- minates in the North at Coseguina. These two volcanic cones serve as the • Tho city of Leon is lauded by Father Gage as the plcasantest placo in all America, and falls it the " Paradise of the Indies." Dampier was hero in 1685, and his men marched up to it to take it, and they set it on fire, but did not procure much plunder. The way to it, ho says, is plain and oven, through a champion (champagne) country, of long grassy savan- nahs, and spots of high woods. About 5 miles from the landing-place there is a bugar work, 3 miles further there is another, and 2 miles beyond that there is a fine river to ford, which is not very deep, besides which there is no water all tho way till you come to an Indian tovra, which is 2 miles before you come to tho city, and from thence it is a pleasant straight sandy way to Ijcon.— Dampier, vol. i. p. 218. Korth Pacifc. j. I I i ( } t I I j 50 COAST OF NIOAEAGUA. cxtremo landmarks for a line of volcanic poalfs which aro so numerous as to bo embarrassing. No loss than eight are visible at the same moiuont from the offing of Roalejo. But about El Viojo and Momoton\bo there can bo no doubt. Tho latter is known by the whitish smoke enveloping its summit, and is a stoop cono of regular figure, so regular as to resemble one ot tho pyramids. Besides this there is tho peak of Momofomhita, similar in form to Momotombo, but much lower. This is on Lake Managua, and cannot bo aeon from Cardon. In going from S. to N. aro the volcanoes of Axum, Las nias, Telioa, and Santa Clam. Telica is tho most remarkable of these after El Viejo or Momotombo. It is in lat. 12° 34' 40" N. It is a regular and very steep cone of 2,950 feet. The port is formed by the throo islands of Castanon, separating tho Estoro Dofia Paula * from tho Pacific on tho South, Cardon Inland in front of it, and forming two entrances, and tho larger island of Ascradores (Sawyers) to tho northward. Sir Edward Belcher thus concisely describes the harbour : — "Cardon, at the mouth of tho Port of Eealejo, is situated in lat. 12'' 27' 55" N., and long. 87' 9' 30" W. It has two entrances, both of which aro safe, under proper precaution, in all weather. The depth varies from 2 to 7 fathoms, and safe anchorage extends for several miles ; the rise and fall of tide 1 1 feet ; full and change 3i' 6'". Docks or slips, therefore, moy easily bo constructed, and timber is easily to be procured of any dimensions ; wood, water, and imme- diate necessaries and luxtirios, are jilon iful and cheap. The village of Eealejo (tho name signifies a barrel or chamber organ) is about 9 miles from the sea, and its population is about 1,000 or 1,200 souls. The principal occupation of the working men is on tlio water, loading and unloading vessels. It has a custom-houso and officers under a collector, comptroller, and captain of the port." Captain de Lapelin says that it is tho only placo hereabout where coal can always bo 'procured, but it is also very dear. Wood may be cut on Aseradores Island, but caro iu required against snakes. There are also numerous sharks in the Estero. Tho anchorage here is very unhealthy and hot in the rainy season. The Island of Cardon is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much iron that the sand, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle • Sir E. Bolcher states, in his appendix, that the Estero (or creek) of Dona Paula takes a course toward the city of Leon, and is navigable to within 3 leagues of that city. It lias been suggested to carry a railroad from Leon to tho Lake of Nicaragua. As to any cannl into the Pacific, unless behind tho Monotombo, Telica, and Viejo Kangc into the Estero Ileal, Sir Edward Belcher saw little feasibility in tho scheme. REALEJO. «l numerous as to mo moiuont from tlioro can bo no )ping its summit, omLlo one ot tho similar in form to 1, and cannot bo 03 of Axusco, Zaa il)lo of these after t is a regular and irating tho Estoro in front of it, and s (Sawyers) to the ir : — " Garden, at 55" N., and long. afo, under proper ["athoms, and safe tide 11 feet; full constructed, and water, and imme- The village of ibout 9 miles from is. The principal ig and unloading jctor, comptroller, about where coal d may be cut on There are also sry unhealthy and 1 contains so much lie magnetic needlo of Dona Paula takes !3 of that cit}-. It has ;ua. As to anj' cannl iiiDgc into the Estcro to vibrato 21° iVom zero. On the West end thoy found a mark, probably left by the Conway a fow years back.* Tho present village of Realejo (for tho name of town cannot bo applied to Buch a collection of hov('ls) contains one main street about 200 yards in longtii, with throe or four openings loading to the isolated cottages in tha back lanes of huts, f The inhabitants generally present a most unhealthy appearance, and there is scorcely a cottage without some diseased or sickly-huod person to be soen.t About a milo bolow the town tho ruins of on old but well-built fort aro yet to be traced. Vessels of 100 tons have grounded at tho pier of Eealojo oustom-houso, but above that they would bo loft dry at low water. Realejo is tho only port after quitting Tanamii where British residents can bo found, or supplies conveniently obtained. Water of tho finest quality is to bo had from a powerful stream, into which tho boat can bo brought, and the casks filled, by baling, alongside of o small wall raised to cause a higher loyel. Here tho womon resort to wash, but, by a due notice to the alcalde, this IS prevented. A guide is necessary on the first visit, after entering the creek which leads to it, and which should only bo entered at half.flood. It is necessary to pole tho remainder, the channel not having Bufiiciout width for oars. The water from tho well on tho Island of Aseradores is good ; § but Sir E. Belcher says, " I have o groat objection to water infiltrat. d through marine sand and decayed vegetable matter, and consider the chances of sickness one step removed by obtaining it from a running stream." The northern channel, or entrance to the port, lying around the N.W. end of Garden Island, has a depth of 6 to 10 fathoms. The N.W. point of the ibland is called Poncnte Point, and is a detached rock. The N.E. point is • Pearl oysters aro found near tho South of Cardon ; but few pearls, however, are found in them, and tho scnrch lias been found very unprofitable.-C. U. Skinner, Esq. t This port, if a settlement were established on Iho Islands of Aseradores," Cardon or Castanon, would probably be moro frequented; but tho position whore vessels usually anchor (within Cardon) to Eealejo, is a sad drawback to vessels touching merely for sup- phos. Rum is also too cheap, and too grout a temptation to seamen. Supplies of poultry, fruit, bullocks, grain, &c., are, however, very reasonable, and of very superior quality • turkeys arc said to attain an incredible weight; thoy still, however, justly maintain a very high reputation.— Edward Bchher, 1S38. X " This is a very sickly place, and I believe hath need enough of an hospital • for it is seated so nigh tho creeks and swamps that it is never freo from a noisome smell. Tho land about It IS a strong yellow clay, yet whero tho town stands seems to bo s^u^."-Eammr vol. i. p. 221. ' { "We established our tide-gauge on the Island of Aseradores, although directly open seaward through Barra Falsa, and we were fortunato to find a good well of water close to the beach."— ;S(V E. Belcher, vol. i. p. 28, e2 f ^! 62 COAST OF NICARAOTJA. Cardon Jlmd, nnd is .10 foot high. Tlio channel pnssos roiiml cloao against fliis point, and oil ovor towartls thd Wouth end of AsoriidorcH Island tlii> wiitor is very nhallow, and a largo patch, Iho Sairi/cr Jttiiik, in nearly awash. A roof oxtonds from the AVo.st point of Cardon to two cabh.'s' lengths, and a rock of 11 foot water was discovered by Comniandor Payntor, E.N., in II.M.S. (ior(/o)i, in 1«19, lying to tho northward of the inland. Trom it Icacos Toint, tho South end of Asoradoro-s Island, l.oro E. by N., Carilon Iload, E. \ S., ond Point Tononto, tho N.AV. point of Cai :/ai S. \iy W. J w. Tho Caudon Channel, that North of tho island is tho boat, perhaps the only ono advisable, Hinco tho ro-oxaniination of tho entranco in ISO.'j. Tho mark given for taking thin channel, called tho Cardim Channel, is— run toward tho entranco, with Cardon Hoad the N.E. point of Cardon, and Icacos Point tho South point of Asoradoros touching, when they will boar East (by compass), and when at more than a cable's length from Point Pononto stand off N.E. by N. until Castaoon Bluff opens out from Cardon Head, and then haul close round Cardon Head, as tho current seta direct on Sawyer Bank. Cardon Island is three-quarters of a mile in length, N.W. and S.E. Shoal water extends some distance off its seaward face. Its southern point is Cape Austro, surrounded by a shoal. S.S.E. of this is Castanon Bluff, tho western point of CastaPion Island. These two points aro a quarter of a mile apart, and tho channel between, which has n depth of 15 feet, is the Barn Falsa. Tho mark for entering it is a vigia on a hill inland, or about 5 miles within the entrance, kept between the two points (Capo Austro and Castauon Bluff), and bearing about N.N.E. This mark kept on leads into the port, but as the depth had decreased from 5 or 6 fathoms in 1838 to 2^ fathoms in 1865, it bhould not bo attempted without local and recent knowledge. The town of Eealejo is up the channel which runs at the back of Asera- dores Island, ^which is 8 or 9 feet deep. It is high water at Eoalejo, on full and change, at 3" G-" ; springs rise 11 feet. The following are the remarks made by Mr. P. C. Allan, E.N., which Mfill prove very serviceable : — "Vessels bound to Eealejo from thr southward should (passing about 20 miles to the eastward of Isle Cocos) steer to make the land to the eastward of the port during the period between November and May, as the winds prevail from the N.E., and sometimes blow with great violence out of the Gulf of Papagayo, causing a ci.rrent to set along shore to the N.W. " A range of mountains in the interior may be seen at tho distance of 60 miles ; the most remarkable of them is the Volcan do Viejo, the highest part of which, bearing N.E. by N., is the leading mark to the anchorage. The ~vrr,MV?rr':r;.T" ^.k.*,^."^.).' ,«%-ini i,..t^^?TOW^ #0. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Ii£|2j8 |2.5 150 *'^~ M^^S I ^ IIIIIM ^ I4S ilM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 .41 6" ► I L Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. USC ' (716) 872-4503 '% ;;}^g.^BjB^^^aMlla8«aBS!^^l^i «IW > W^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques "'" ' ■f: EEALEJO. 63 slioro, for some distance on each side of the entrance, is low and woody. Cardon Island, which is on the right side of the entrance, is rather higher, and its western end is a brown rocky cliff. The wooden tower, or look-out house, which is situated 5 or 6 miles inland, may bo seen rising above the trees. "In coming from the southward, and running along the land, ships must avoid a rocky reef, which lies about 7 miles E.S.E. of the anchorage oflf Realejo, on which H.M.S. Conway struck. This reef was examined by the boats of that ship. " The two rocks that are above water (the one 8, and the other 5 ft. high) are distant from the beach rather more than three-quarters of a mile. The ground between these rocks, and IJ mile to seaward of them, and probably more, is very uneven. The rock on which the Conway struck Hes S.S.W. i W. threo-eighths of a mile from the N.W. or highest of the two rocks. In passing this reef give the rocks above water a berth of 2 miles. "The flood tide comes from the N.W. The tides are irregular ; ono day during our stay hero it was low water 16 hours." Mr. E. P. Brumell also says: -"In steering for Port Eealejo from the southward, after passing the paraUel of Port Culebra, keep the land well aboard (during the papagayos) as there is generally a strong offset. The land is low in front, without anything to make it remarkable at 8 or 10 miles off; however, there are most exceUent marks inland, iu the event of not getting observations. A very high peak inland, rising evenly and gra- dually to a fine point, bearing E.N.E., will place you to the southward of the port, and another high mountain. El Viejo, bearing N.E. ^ N. by com- pass, will place you right off the port. This [mountain is very remarkable, there being none other bearing the least resemblance to it, and in fact none in the immediate vicinity." Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Calypso, visited Eealejo in 1847, and the fol- lowing are the remarks made from observation during his stay :— " The breeze of Papagayo is always strong, and is felt 40 or 50 miles off shore, strongest nearest the land. Coming from Puntas Arenas t-j Eealejo, although this breeze does not usually ahow a ship to lay up for it at first, it wiU, as you proceed northward, draw more off shore, and lead directly up for the El Viejo mountain, the leading mark for Eealejo. "El Viejo is an extinct volcano, and a remarkable landmark, being tho westernmost of a number of conical mountains ; ono of which, Momotombo, IS an active volcano, and almost constantly smoking, and having the ap^ pearance of a slice cut off its top, slanting to the eastward. Westward of El Viejo the land is low, with a sandy beach, thickly covered with wood ; with very clear weather, and approaching El Viejo from the southward, you Will see the volcano of San Miguel (extinct,), making like a rouud island to the westward. 84 COAST OP NICAEAGUA. " Having made out El Viejo, a N.E. by N. course leads directly up to the anchorage of the entrance of Eealejo Harbour ; 7 or 8 miles from the beach is 19 fathoms, shallowing quickly, but regularly, to 12 fathoms, at about 4 or 5 miles from the shon . The land to the westward is a continuous low beach, [wooded close down ; carrying the eye along this beach to the east- ward will be observed a break, the land protruding further into the sea r the beach white, and the surf heavier, having detached trees upon it, with low abrupt cliffs, also an opening, which is the South entrance into Eealejo. The island to the westward of this opening (Castanon Island) has few trees upon it, and is abrupt at the West end ; to the westward of it is Cordon Islana, which has many detached trees upon its West end, of larger size than upon the apparent main land (Aseradoros, or Sawyer's Island), and is higher and more abrupt at this end than Castanon ; there is also a large green tree jutting out from it to the westward, and a higher rock close to it, which can be seen as soon as the island itself. " The face of Cardon Island is of a reddish-brown colour, occasioned by burning the bamboo, which grows thickly upon it. Having made out Car- don Island, the best anchorage is with its N.W. end bearing East U miles off El Viejo, N.E. by N., in 6 J and 7 fathoms sand and mud. " No ship should anchor to the northward of the West end of Cardon bearing E. by S., as the soundings shoal very quickly from 6 to 5 and 4i fathoms, the rise being about 11 feet, and always a swell, sometmies very heavy, the ship rolling deeply ; nor is the bottom so good when nearer the beach. " At the commencement of the dry season, the land-winds frequently last for several days together, blowing very fresh and preventing ships from entering the harbour ; but as the season advances, the land and sea-breezes become more regular, but never strictly so. Sir E. Belcher's plan of Eealejo is very correct, though there did not appear to me quite so much water near the East end of the North side of Cardon as laid down on it. The entrance is narrow, making it necessary to pass close to the tree on the West end of Cardon Island. A pilot takes vessels in and out, but requires to be watched, as he is not a sailor, and is old and incapable. When leaving the harbour, you should have a commanding land-wind, as the ebb sets directly across tho South entrance, and very strong. " The Calypso was awkwardly situated ; the land-winds failing us, we drifted down towards Cardon Island, and were obliged to anchor and warp against the tide into deeper water ; the anchor was let go in 3^ fathoms, but it soon shoaled to less than 3 fathoms. " The proper anchorage, which is nearer the Island of Aseradotes than the opposite shore, is confined j the bottom soft mud : consequently, should a vessel take the ground, no damage would occur. A large frigate would find considerable difficulty in swinging heroi MANZANA ISLAND. 65 tly up to the n the beach , at about 4 itinuous low L to the east- the sea ; the it, with low Qto Kealejo. as few trees it is Cardan f larger size land), and is also a large ik close to it, ccasioned by ide out Car- 3ast \i miles id of Cardon to 5 and 4i netioies very sn nearer the •equontly last g ships from ,d sea-breezes an of Eealejo h water near The entrance West end of be watched, ; the harbour, itly across the ailing us, we lor and warp \ fathoms, but 3ol*es than the atly, should a ite would find "Eealojo is healthy during the dry season (November to April), but sub- ject to fovcr and ague during the rainy season, which commences in May. Water can bo had, but not very good, and is very dear ; the natives fiU the casks out of the river at low water, a little above Eealejo. Wood is cheap, 4 dollars per thousand pieces ; fresh beef is cheap, purchased by the bullock; the stock cheap and very good ; fowls, 1 1 real ; sucking pigs, 2 reals ; ducks, 3 reals ; lard, 1 real per ^lound ; rice, 2 dollars a quintal ; and vege- tables scarce. " This is the best place for stock on the whole coast. Washing is also comparatively very cheap — 1 dollar the dozen. Fire-wood may be cut in any quantity, and good." Dampier, who was on this coast in September, 1685, says: — "We Lad very bad weather as we sailed along this coast ; seldom a day passed but we had one or two violent tornadoes, and with theiv very frightful flashes of lightning and claps of thunder. I never did meet with the like before nor since. Those tornadoes commonly come out of the N.E. The wind did not last long, but blew very fierce for the time. When the tornadoes were over we had the wind at West, sometimes at W.S.W. and S.W., and sometimes to the North and West, as far as N.W." Manzana Island, ovFake Cardon, is at the N.W. end of Aseradores Island, which does not appear to be an island as you sail past it in 11 fathoms. Manzana is only about 18 feet high, covered with trees, whose level tops can be seen at 8 miles oS, and the island has a white beach. It is nearly joined to Aseradores Island at the South end by a shallow channel. Several wrecks have occurred from mistaking this island for the true Cardon, but this error should not occur if the mountains are visible. El Viejo bears E.N.E. from Manzana and N.E. by N. from the latter. Should El Viejo be hidden by clouds, which sometimes occurs, the re^ lar cone oi the Telica volcano to the South of it, which is rarely obscured, will equally serve, for it bears East from Manzana and E.N.E. from Cardon. The coast pursues a straight line to the Mesa de Jioidan (Eoland's or the Eound Table), the seaward extremity of a small chain of hills, which is easily known by its level summit, and by the large reddish patches on its slopes, where they are not covered by trees. Between Cardon and this the bottom is very even, with a depth cf ll or 12 fathoms at 6 miles from the beachi Speck Heef, of which we have no particulars beyond the chart, is marked at about 7 miles from False Cardon, and as stretching 2 miles from shore, with 15 feet on its outer edge. ThiS) of course, must be considered in sail- ing north-westward. Northward of the Mesa de Eoldan the coast is a sandy beach, so low that it cannot be seen from the deck when in 4i or 6 fathoms. It curves around ■'«^'nMUSBETO(«lSBWBS3i' ?73ii 5r"'?? ^mfmmmmm t[ < t i 86 COAST OF NICAHAQUA to the N.W., and then it rises into perpendicular cliffs, which continue to the famous and terrible volcano of Coseguina, at the entrance of the Gulf of Fonseca. In sailing between Bealejo and Fonseca there is no danger, if you do not come into less than 5 or 6 fathoms. Near to the Coseguina it may be approached within a milo, but with the flood tide it is better to keep further off, on account of the inset into the Estero Eeal. The OULF of FONSECA, or Conchagna, i" about 40 miles N W. of Bealejo. It ie an extensive and fine bay ia the Pacific, almost unrivalled for its extent, its beauty, or its security. Though generally known by the name of the Gulf of Fonseca, it is also known by the names of Conch .gua, of San Carlos, of Amapala, of Coseguina, and of Amatapa. Its shores are divided among the States of Nicaragua, Honduras, and San Salvador ; its beautiful volcanic islands belong only to the two latter. Honduras possesses Amapala or Tigre, Sacate-grande or Velasquez and Diuposicion, while Conchaguita, Manguiera, Martin Perez, and Punta-Sacate belong to San Salvador. Each of the States claiming part of its shores have opened a port to com* merce. That of San Carlos de la Union, beloaging to San Salvador is the most important, not on its own account, but because of its proximity to the city of San Miguel, which at the time of its fairs (in February and Novem- ber) is the most commercial place in Central America. The port for Honduras, called San Lorenzo, is on the river Nacaome ; it will only receive vessels of very light draught, and is seldom visited except by bongos. But the Honduras Government, at the instance of M. Dardano, the Sardinian Consul, has declared the anchorage at Amapala on Tigre Island to be a free port, with the hope of attracting hither, from its central position and capabilities, an entrepot of the commerce of the gulf, and per- haps hereafter of that of the whole of Central America. Nicaragua has its port of entry on the left bank of the Estero Eeal to the S.W. It is merely a post occupied by a few soldiers at Playa Grande. It is rarely visited, and quite unimportant. The inter-oceanic railway across the State of Honduras was proposed to terminate on the northern shore of the gulf. It starts from Puerto Caballos or Cortez, in the Bay of Honduras to the northward, running nearly due South to Punta Bemolina on Sacate Grande, or some other point in the Gulf of Fonseca. The total length between the anchorage in each port would be 148 geographical miles. It was surveyed in 1858 by Colonel Trautwine, and verified by Colonel Stanton, E.E. It was proposed also to extend the southern terminus to Tigre Island by a pile bridge l\ mile long. Either this or the main land fronting the Bay of Chismuyo, or else the Island of Garova or La Union might be a terminus. ■1 iiniiiiifriitfii-iiiiii«fM ■MNHHMikBr: continue to the Gulf of danger, if jseguina it ter to keep } NW. of unrivalled wn by the )onoh;gua, shores are Ivador; its ,s possesses lion, while ing to San rt to com- fidor is the lity to the ad Novem- Eicaome ; it ited except . Dardanu, I on Tigre its central ', and per- I •ft ■'a ^■ J: Jeal to the rande. It roposed to !;o Caballos aearly due )iiit in the each port )y Colonel posed also i;e 1^ mile or else the "v^sssj" &iii Kri-S-- If 11.1 THE GULF OF FONSECA. 67 Mr. E. G. Squier says : —The entrance to tho bay, from the sen, is about 19 miles wide between the great volcanoes of Conchagua (5,720 feet in height) and Coseguina (3,000 feet in height), which stand like giant warders upon either hand, end constitute iinmistakoable landmarks for the mai-iner. On a line across this entrance, and about cijui-distant from each other, lio the two considerable islands of Conchaguita and Manguera, and a collection of high rocks, called los Farallonrs, which, while they servo to protect the bay from the swell of the soa, divide the entrance into four distinct channels, each of sufficient deptli of water to admit the passage of the largest vessels. These islands are high, Concliaguita being not less than 500, and Man- guera about 600 feet in height. They were formerly inhabited by Indians, who withdrew to the main land to avoid the oppressions of the freebooters during tho period of their at- pendancy in the South Sea. Both of these islands belong to San Salvador. ' ' The principal islands in the Bay of Fonseca are Sacate-Grande, or Ve- lasquez, Tigre, Gueguensi, and Esposescion, belonging to Honduras ; and Punta Sacate, Martin-Perez, Conchaguita, and Manguera, belonging to San Salvador. Velasquez, or Sacate-grando, is considerably the largest, and in common with the others, is of volcanic origin. It is 5 miles long, by about 4 in breadth. The southern half is elevated, rising in a number of peaks to the height of 2,200 feet. These elevations slope off gently to tho northward, and subside finally in level alluvial grounds of exceeding fertility. These, as well as the slopes descending toward them, are densely wooded with cedar, mahogany, willowisti, and other valuable trees. The peaks themselves, as well as their more abrupt southern slopes, are covered with grass called by the Indians sacate, whence this island derives its name. These grassy slopes afford pas- turage for great numbers of cattle, and it is said that as many as 4,000 have been pastured upon the island at a single time. For most of the year, and except in very dry seasons, there are running streams of water on the northern slopes of the island. Abundance of water, however, may be obtained by digging through the upper lava crusts, beneath which, as is frequently tho ease in volcanic countries, flow constant streams. Tho grassy peaks of Sa- cate Grande, as well as of the other islands, afford a source of evel'-varying and eternal beauty. With the commencement of the rainy season, they ard clothed with the delicate translucent green of the springing grass, which deepens as the season advances, both in colour and thickness, until all tho asperities of the ground are matted over with an emerald robe of luxuriance. Then, when the rains cease, and the di'oughts commence, the grass becomes sere, and finally of a brilliant yellow ; and the islands appear as if swathed in a mantle r* golden grain, which Ceres herself might envy. l?hen comes the totch of the vnqtdro, which clears the ground fof the futufe fresh and mam I «8 COAST OF NICARAGUA. tender blado, but loavos it browned and purpled, in sober contrast with its previous gayer garniture of gold and green. The island of Oueguensi may be regarded as a dopendancy of Sacatc- Grando, from which it is separated only by a narrow and shallow strait. It has a single eminence of great beauty and regularity. The rest of the island is level, chiefly savanna, fertile, and well adapted to the cultivation of rice, cotton, and sugoi'. It is fringed by a narrow belt of mangroves. The Island of Tigro, from its position, is the most important island of the bay. It is about 10 miles in circumference, rising in the form of a perfect cone, to the height of 2,590 feet. The slope from the water, for some dis- tance inward, is very gentle, and admits of cultivation. Upon the southern and eastern shores, the lava forms black, rocky barriers to the waves, vary- ing in height from 10 to 80 feet ; but upon the northward and eastword there are a number of "playas," or coves, with smooth sandy beaches. It is facing one of the most considerable of these that the port of Amapala is situated. The water in front is deep, with clear anchorage, where vessels of ordinary size may lay within a cable's length of the shore, Ooseguina Point is the S.E. point of Fonseca Bay, upon which stands the celebrated volcano of Coseguina. It is 3,800 feet high, and is in lat. 12' 68' N., long. 87° 37' W. It was anciently called Quisiguina, and stands as before stated, on the S.E. point of the entrance. The verge of the crater which is half a mile in diameter, is elevated about 3,800 feet above the moan level ; thence the interior walls faU perpendicularly to a depth of 200 feet, when the bottom of the crater becomes flattish, with a small transparent lake in its centre. One of the most remarkable volcanic eruptions on record oo'curred from it. It commenced on the 20th of January, 1835, and its first evidence was, as seen at 60 miles' distance, an immense (!blumn of smoke and flame emitted from the crater. At 9 a.m. a very heavy shock of an earthquake was felt; the night following five shocks; and during the 21st several shocks, accompanied with the noise resembling distant thunder, or " retumbo,^' as the Spaniards call it. On the 22nd the ground was covered with fire, ashes, or sand, darkness and the roar of the volcano pre- vailing. On the 23rd, the fall of ashes and noise increased till it became darker than the darkest night, and continued so till 3 p.m., when it cleared a little ; everything covered thickly with the volcanic dust, the noisoj and odour of sulphur, being overpowering. Its devastating eflfocts were conti- nued for many weeks after. In proof of its tl?emendous efi'ects, the eruption shook all the windows and doors in the city of Guatemala, which is between 240 and 250 statute miles distant, most forcibly. This was occasioned, not by the earthquake, but by the explosions transmitted through the air; this was on January 23rd, 1835. But tiii9 distance to which the thunder of the volcano was heard, and the dust flelt) was very much greater than this. According to the " rast with its sy of Sacato- w strait. It of tho island ition of rico, islautl of tlio of a perfect for some dis- tho southern waves, vary- LStward there iches. It ia f Amapala is ere vessels of nrhich stands ad is in lat. I, and stands of tho crater ovc the mean of 200 feet, . transparent )ns on record and its first nan of smoke shock of an ring the 21st ant thunder, ground was volcano pre- 11 it became an it cleared 10 noisC) and J were conti- Windows and statute miles uake, but by inuary 23rdi was heardj rding to the rORT LA UNION. 69 ufncial account, those were both felt and hoard at Ciudad Eoal de Chia- pas, a distance of 420 geographic miles. It occasioned very groat alarm at Tonala and other parts in Soconusco, 460 miles to tho N.W. ; and on the coast about Morida, in Yucatan, 800 miles off. Those to tho south- ward were not slight evidences, but the air was darkened, and thouoisos terrific, and the sulphureous vapours most sufl'ocating. Tho flocks pe- rished from tho pastures being destroyed by tho dust, and great sickness ensued among all from tho AVater becoming tainted from the same cause. In the " Jamaica "Watchman " (January 29, 183j), too, it is announced that all tho ships about that island were covered with tho fine volcanic dust, which continued to fall for some days, covering everything. C1-. TJ. Skinner, Esq., left tho city of Guatemala and Istapa in tho middle of March, passing large banks of floating pumico during the passage to Conchagua. When at many leagues' distance, they wero almost suffocated by the sulphureous vapour and the volcanic dust, which obscured tho sky, and settled on everything, causing most violent burning pains in the eyes. PORT LA UNION is an inner harbour or bay of the Gulf of Fonseca ; it lies on the North side, around Chiriquin or Chicarene Point, extending 8 or 9 miles inland, but the upper and N.E. sides are shallow and uncovered at low water. This contracts the limits of the port within much sm Tier diiuen- sions. On these flats oysters are very abundant. San Carlos, hotter known by the name of Conchagua, is situated on tho South side of the port. The site is badly chosen, as the difficulty in landing is at all times great, and at low water nearly impossible ; during strong northerly winds the communication is frequently cut off for days, independent of imsafe holding ground for shipping. Near Chiriquin this might have been entirely avoided. The port is entirely landlocked ; in fact, a complete inland sea. The actual town ot village of Conchagua, from which this port derives its name, is situated about 3 miles up the Amapala Moimtain, or extinct volcano, immediately over San Carlos. If proceeding to La Union, and having made out the entrance and the islands, steer direct for tho island Conchaguita, which may be ranged close- to, BO as to avoid the shoal water near the mouth of tho San Miguel Piver, and over which the flood runs strongly. If obliged to beat in, there will be no difficulty in doing so, guided by Sir Edward Belcher's plan, or without it by the lead. You should not come into less than 6 J or 7 fathoms near tho hill forming the second point, on the port hand, in entering, called Point Amapata, to the North of which is the mouth of the San Miguel, and which ought to be kept at a mile and a half distant. Before arriving abreast of the North point of Conchaguita, steer rather within Point Chicarene (or Chiri- quin), BO aa to range the shore formed by the slopes of the Amatapa volcano. The depth is greater than nearer the islands, and you will have the advan- ! ( i u eo COAST OP NICARAGUA. tago of tho flood stream, which separates into two branches to the North of Conchaguitn, one following the channel, tlio other diverging to the N.E. A Sardinian vessel was driven on to the Negritos from want of knowing this fact. Having doubled Point Chiriquin nearly in mid-channel, an extensive bay opens, the North point of which is filled with mud banks, which uncover at low water. A large ship should anchor before having tho North point of Punta Sacate bearing East, in 5J to 6J fathoms, mooring to tho flood and ebb. Vessels of less draught may get nearer to the village, which is 4 miles from the above anchorage, by keeping to the shore on the port hand, after roimding Point Chiriquin, and anchor at a mile or H mile N.E. of the vil- lage in 3J to Sj- fathoms, bottom of mud, and excellent \iolding ground, allowing room to drive in case of the North winds which sometimes blow with great force. Vessels of 400 tons usually anchor at 2 miles S.E. of tho village. If it is not intended to stay long here, or only to procure water or provi- sions, you may stay in tho channel between Point Amatapa and the islands Conchaguita and Punta Sacate, n little to the South of the watering place of Chiriquin, keeping as much as possible within tho direction of tho point, to avoid the strength of the current, and tho cross sea, occasioned by the Boa breeze opposing tho ebb tide. You should moor N. and S. The tides are regular, their velocity rarely attaining to 2 knots, except between Point Chiriquin and tho Negritos. It is high water, full and change, at 3'' 1,5"'; range at springs 12 feet 2 inches; at neaps 8 feet 10 inches. The mud bank in front of the landing place dries out more than a cable's length at low water; it is better then to use the native canoes to pass through this liquid mud. In 1852 thoy were lengthening a jetty to avoid this incon- venience. If proceeding to Amapala (or TIgre Island) steer for tho steep sided channel, between Manguiora and Conchaguita, closing in with tho N.W. point of tho first of these islands to within 3 or 4 cables' lengths, so as to bring the second hummock of the summit of Tigre Island, or rather the part where the "sa- cate"* joins the trees, to bear N.E. I E., tho depth being from 11 to 13 fa^ thoms. As soon as that bearing comes on, steer for it, and the lead will show a bank of sand and mud, the depth on which gradually decreases from 13 to • Sacato is tho term applied to lliosc rui-c spaces, bare of trees, but covered with a sjiucies of long grass, called saeate, which, during the dry season, is of tho colom- of the ripe corn fields of Eurbpe. This grass is burned just before the rainy season commences, and theii has a red and sterile appearance. Soon after the first rains, it assuthes a pale green, whith looks like a plantation of sugar-canos. THE ESTEEO REAL. 61 10 Nortli of the N.E. of knowing ttonsivo bay L uncover at 'til point of 10 flood and :h is 4 miles hand, after of the ril- ing ground, etimos blow S.E. of the )r or provi- the inlands ing place of 10 point, to ned by the acts, except 3r, full and i 8 feet 10 in a cable's ass through this incon- ied channel, point of thd ^ the second ro the "sa- ,1 to 13 fa- id will show from 13 to with a, sjiucies the ripo com CCS, and theh greeii, whith 4 or 4 J fathoms, ^\hioh is tho shoalest part of tho channel. As soon as Cara- colito, a low islet, covered with bushes and scattered trees, bears N.N.E., and cloarH well from Tigro Island, though it is connected with it at low water, steer N.N.E. } E. towards a small cabin, or ranclio, on the sandy beach to the right of Caracolito, approaching it till it boars N. by E., and tlieu pass around it at tho distance of 2 cables' lengths of tho white house, and then tho harbour will como in view, when you may anchor at 4 cables' lengths.ofl"tl;e sandy beach, tho flagstalf bearing S. 32-' E., or a white houso with throe doorways to S. 39^ E., being tlion in 8 fathoms, green mud, and of excellent quality for holding. "Water is procured from tho wells, which are private property ; that belong- ing to Mr. Dardano is the best and most abundant. The Estero Real, in the southern part of the gulf, appears to bo of con- siderable importance, as .Sir E. Belcher took the Starling up it for 30 miles from its mouth, and might easily have gone further, but tho prevailing strong winds rendered it too toilsome a journey at this period ; he considered that it might be ascended much higher— the natives say 60 miles— by vessolf < aT- ing 1 feet, but steamers would bo absolutely nocos.saiy to tow against the prevalent breezes. According to ^'*v Edward Belcher's opinion, this unquestionably is tho most advantageous line for a canal ; for, by its approaoliing thus tho Lake of Ma- nagua, the entire lake communication might readily bo effected.* Mr. G. U. Skinner says that there is considerable traffic carried on by means of bongoes, or largo canoes, and that the distance from the ombarcadera to the Conchagua is 65 miles. Captain Worth says :— Leaving Eealejo for Conchagua, with the land- wind, it is advisable to steer obliquely off shore to meet the sea-breeze, which takes a ship to Coseguina Point, on tho East side of the Gulf of Conchagua. • Tho Sirano, Siriano, or San Miguel River, has been one of tho sites thought of for t'orming the communication between the two oceans, to bo connoctod with tho Bay of Honduras, through the transverse valley, the Llanura do Comayagua, watered on the Atlantic side by the Jagua, and on tho racific by tho Sirano, as before mentioned, and both of which aro navigable, but how far, or how long, our knowledge will not determine. This scheme, therefore, is very desultory.— i'/s^/MWd de Panama, jiar M. Che- vallier, p. 72. Tho town of San Miguel is situated on a plain at tho base of the volcano, which is 7,024 feet high, and suddenly springs on this side to itj ape.x, and is surrounded on its other sides by ranges of ?00 to 600 feet above its level, entirely excluding it from any prospect beyond their outlines. There is nothing in tho city itself which calls lor rcL"\rk, and its conse- quence arises principally from tho fairs held hero for tho purpose of transacting the indigo trade. The fair at the period of Sir Edward Belcher's visit is the principal (November 23, 1838), and had a largo quantity of cattle, horses, sheep, cite. ^ G2 COAST OF NIOAEAGUA. Sailing in the morning, you ivill generally reach this point late in the even- ing, or the next day after noon. The Gulf of Conchaguh will be well understood by reference to Sir E. Belcher's plan ; there appears to be no dangers. The Calypso worked in and out twice, tacking at loss than 2 cables' lengths from the shore and islands.* The tides are very strong : full 2 knots at full and change, which takes pluce at 3 p.m. About the change of the moon the land-wind blows strongly during the night and a greater part of the day ; you can, however, see it coming by the foam on the water. As in coming from Eealejo you generally amve here in the evening, it is advisable to anchor when the land wind comes off; for, should you be driven off the coast, it will take all the next day to reach the islands, and to arrive at the proper anchorage, the sea breeze being weak after such strong land winds. In the Calypso, on our first going to Conchagua, the land wind came down with such force that the gulf appeared to break across ; and we anchored in 18 fathoms, and worked up the next day to Chiquirin Bay. This gulf contains the best and most easily obtained water on the coast ; it is a stream running down the mountains, clear and sweet, into the bay called La Playeta de Chiquirin, which is just to the southward of the Chiquirin Point* You can anchor close in. The best way to water is by rafting, the water in the bay being quite smooth, you can pull well to windward, and alongside to the eddy, and then across the tides to the ship. "We filled 26 times a day, although badly off for boats, having only a 28-foot pinnace. There is a surf on this beach, sometimes heavy, but seldom enough to prevent landing. Merchant vessels anchor so close, as to be able to hand their casks off with long linos. "When we first anchored in this point we tried, through ignorance, to water in the Playa de Chicarene, but wo found the surf so heavy, the water so bad, and such great difficulty from the tides, that we could not get more than 18 tons a day, and that after gi'eat labour to the men, and much damage to the casks and boats. "Wood is not so cheap here as at Eealejo ; beef about the same price, also washing ; but stock is dearer, and difficult to get in any quantity ; turtle is plentiful, about 2 reals for one weighing 50 lb. Sir Edward Belcher's plan clearly shows the only dangers in entering Port La TJnion ; they are visible • In entering tho Conchagua from the westward, bring the laland of Tigro to bear ex- actly between tho Islands of Conrhaguita and Manguera, to avoid the rocks off Point Can- dadillo. Tigro is a high conical hill. It is thus quite safe entering to an anchorage, even at night, if this island be seen, which is seldom not the case at all seasons.— (7. U. Skinner, Esq, ate in the eTen< )renoo to Sir E. so worked in and ore and islands.* rhich takes plitce d blows Ptrongly however, see it a the evening, it , should you be L the islands, and weak after such wind came down d we anchored in r on the coast ; it ito the bay called Q Chiquirin Point* ting, the water in d, and alongside d 26 times a day, . There is a surf prevent landing, lir casks off with irough ignorance, irf so heavy, the we could not get B men, and much ( same price, also [uantity; turtle is rd Belcher's plan ; they are visible of Tigre to bear cx- e rocks off Point Can- ing to an anchorage, t all seasons.— C U. SAN SALVADOE. 63 at low water, the only difficulty is the very great strength of tide; it is quite a sluice round Ohicarene Point. 4. SAN SALVADOE. San Salvador is the smallest of the Central American Eepublics, but re- latively to its extent, it is the most densely populated, and has the most in- dustry and commerce. It extends from the North side of the Gulf of Fon- seca to the Eio Paza or Pazaea, about 1 60 miles to the westward, which separates it from the Eepublio of Guatemala. It has a population, according to Mr. Squier, of 294,000. It is an agricultural state, and the principal pro- ducts are indigo, the chief article, sugar and maize. Indigo, produced from an indigenous plant, the jiquilite, is easily raised and manufactured. The coast presents, generally, a belt of low, rich alluvial land, varying in width from 10 to 20 miles. Behind this, and presenting an abrupt face seaward, is a range of mountains, or rather a broad plateau, having an average eleva- tion of about 2,000 feet. Along this plateau there are not less than eleven great volcanoes, running in nearly a direct line from S.E. to N.W., coincident with the great line of volcanic action, which is traceable from Mexico to Chile. Its principal stream is the Lempa, which would be navigable for small steamers for probably 100 miles, but it is hopelessly barred from sea- ward. The chief ports, if such they can be called, with the exception of the fine harbour of La Union, are Acagutla and Libertad, mere open roadsteads, only deriving their existence and importance from their proximity to the re- spective cities of San Salvador and Sonsonate. Another place, Concordia, has been formed to the westward as a port to the town of San Vicente. We have no proper survey of the coast ; but as it has only to be known to be avoided, this want is of the less importance. The "ports," or an- chorages, are only of interest. In general, the inhabitants of Salvador have more intelligence and industry than those of the previously described States of Central America. Their government is more liberal, and the rights of person and property are more respected, and the privileges extended to foreigners are greater than those above mentioned, under a treaty negociated by Mr. Squier, United States Minister to Salvador, in 1850. The commerce of San Salvador is chiefly carried on through means of fairs established by the government in the districts best suited for the exhi- bition of the products of the State. The principal fairs are held at Chalalte- nango, San Vincente, and San Miguel. The two former take jilace on the Ist of November in each year ; the latter, called "Fair of La Paz," on the 21st of the same month. It lasts about two weeks, and is far the most im- portant of any held in the country. It attracts buyers and sellers, not only from all parts of Central America, but from nearly every part of the Pacific -* J »'' - T-T « W m; i-l i, ' ■ -""! ■ Mi| ii»*W j M3 1 64 COAST OF SAN SALVADOR. coast, as well as from England, Germany, France, and the United States. About the only product given for the goods sent in by foreigners is the staple of the state, indigo. A second fair, called " Ceniza," takes place in San !Miguel about the beginning of February. To both of these fairs large num- bers of cattle are brought from Honduras and Nicaragua. The Coast, as delineated on the chart, is taken from the survey of Don Alexandro Malaspina, in 1794, as drawn up subsequently for the Spanish Govermnent by Don Felipe Bauza, F.R.S. In tho introduction to the next chapter we have noticed the unfortunate voyage of this commander, and have there stated the reasons why we have not a more complete descrip- tion of the tract he explored. From Candadillo Point, the western limit of the Gulf of Fonseca, the coast is low and sandy for some distance, till we arrive at a part where it becomes higher, and in some places cliffy, for about 10 miles to where San Miguel volcano bears N. 18° E., when it becomes again low and sandy to Jiquilisco and Libertad. These low beaches, particularly at sun rise and sunset, occa- sion such a strong mirage, that it appears as if the surf breaks much far- ther off than it does in reality. The soimdings off this shore are regular, and increase gradually toward the offing, contrary to tho opinion tliat the bottom is very uneven and dangerous to navigate by the lead ; but it may be affirmed that a vessel wUl be in safety anywhere between Fonseca and Point Eeme- dios, so long as she is in more than 8 or 10 fathoms. A more general re- mark may also be made, that on the whole coast of Central America, the lead will be a good guide, and that the depth above stated is generally safe, ex- cept in some places, where it would be too near the land, and 13 to 18 fathoms is a better depth to maintain. PORT JiaUILISCO, (or Giquilisco), or del Triunfo de los Lihres, according to Colonel Don Juan Galindo (an Englishman in the service of the republic), is about 24 miles beyond Candadillo, the N.W. entrance point of Con- chagua. In 1798, the Eoyal Consulate of Guatemala ordered Don Vincente Ro- driguez del Camino to survey it. He states that it was then named the Bay of San Salvador de Jiquilisco (a species of plant, the indigofera disperma), an- ciently called the Bay of Fonseca. May this account for the double name applied to Conchagua to the S.E. ? The name given to it by Colonel Galindo evidently has reference to one of those " triumphs," so common and 80 ephemeral in these distracted countries. We have therefore preferred the old name. According to tho old plan of Don V. del Camino, the anchorage is good and well sheltered. Like Tehuantepec, the coast of the main land appears to be fronted by a long narrow island, perhaps formed by the tremendous surf raised by the prevalent winds. V w L i m w > ^ ' . - ' ■ -•rf%^'< \M UJt7 W l^ gJ WTBP -^ THE EIVER LEMPA, OR LAMPA. 66 ited States, s the staple lace in San large niim- vey of Pon he Spanish ;o the next Lander, and )te descrip- a, the coast it becomes 3an Miguel ) Jiquilisco unset, occa- much far- •egular, and the bottom be affirmed oint Eeme- general re- ca, the lead y safe, ex- 18 fathoms ), according e republic), :nt of Con- ncente Eo- ed the Bai/ iperma), an- )uble name by Colonel 3mmon and referred the is good and ipears to be mdous surf The port, or rather the creek or " Estero " of Jiquilisco, has not the same appearance as the rivers, &c., to the Weijt; instead of mangroves, the shore is marked by bushes of a pale green or muddy colour, or else without leayes. The volcano of San Miguel, kept on the bearing of N. 27° E., will lead on to the horse-shoe breakers. At a mile and a half off" the water is much dis- coloured, but the depth is 7^ and 8^ fathoms, fine grey sand, which would not hold well ; a better anchorage would be 1 i mile West of the bar, where there is an adhesive mud, and black sandy bottom. We were not fortunate enough to find the channel across the bar, described by the officers of Le Gi'ftie, as stated below. The bar of Jiquilisco forms a sort of horse-shoe, wliich must be crossed to enter the estero. The sea frequently breaks heavily on it, but there are places where it does not do so, and where it may easily be attempted ia boats. There is 14| feet least water on one part, and the tide rises 8^ feet ; it is therefore possible even for ships of considerable burden to clear this line of breakers, which is but narrow, and find plenty of water within, except on three or four small shoals, which are not difllcult to avoid. One feature of the place, which will point out the channel, is that the ebb tide from the estero forms a line of eddietor ripplings in which there is always deep water, and which crosses the banks in the deepest part. This current turns with the tide, and sometimes runs at the rate of 3 miles an hour, and with the flood tide makes a very heavy sea on the bar, except at the time of high water. (Captain Jamin, of the brig Ze Genie). At the entrance of the estero is Pajaroa Island, which separates it into two channels, in which it is said there is a depth of 8 fathoms. The RIVER LEMPA, or LAMPA, runs within a league of one of the arms of the estero of Jiquilisco, and the inhabitants state that another branch joins the Eiver San Miguel, which falls into the Gulf of Fonseca. In passing along the coast of this river the navigator should be very cau- tious of his distance, for it is stated that a long bar or flat runs off, as indeed might be anticipated, from the magnitude and character of the river. This flat, which reaches thegreatei part of a mile, is called the Barra delFs- piritti Santo, and on it the ZitcreUa, a brig drawing 12 feet, was wrecked, February 18, 1847. This was inconsequence of the ignorance of the ex- istence of such a projection. In Father Gage's work, before quoted, he mentions the Lempa: — "This river is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any heinous crime, or murther, on this side of Guatemala and San Salvador, or on the other side of St. Miguel or Nicaragua, if he can flie to g^t over this river, he is free as long as he liveth on the other side, and no justice on that side whither he is escaped, can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise for debts, he cannot be arrested." Among the many undeveloped resources of San Salvador, cor.^ mny come North Pacific. j : m COAST OP SAN SALVADOE. to have a first value. Mr. Squier says that there is reason to believe that vast beds exist throughoui the valley of the Eio Lempa, and in the valleys of some of its principal tributaries, over a region 100 miles long by not far from 20 miles broad. It had long been reported to exist, but he set the question at rest after his visit in 1853, by proper investigations. Coal was found in the valley of the Eio Titiguapa, flowing into the Lempa from the coast, iJso in the valley of the Eio Tordla, and large beds are reported to exist near the town of Itobasco. The coal is all of the variety called hrmvn coal, and is a later formation than what is known as pit coal ; similar coal is extensively used in Germany for various mineral purposes. The entrance to tho Lempa Eiver is similar in character to the others West of it. It is known by some large trees with white trunks, with the tops al- most bare, rising above the lighter coloured and lower wood, similar to the copsewood of northern countries. It is found when coming from the East or South, by bringing San Salvador to bear N. 50° W., or San Vicente N. 16° W., and then running on either of these bearings will bring up to the bar. Coming from the westward, San Miguel bearing N. 60° E., will bring you up to it. The entrance is about half a mile broad, barred by breakers, which reach a mile oL, and which the natives say cannot be taken. It is quite unimportant, and there are only a few fishing huts on its left bank. Above this port and the mouth of the river the Fblcan de San Miguel rises. It is 7,024 feet high, and is a very conspicuous object in the offing, and will serve well to point out the locality. La Concordia, a "port" of late growth, is at the mouth of the Jiiver Jiboa, 11 miles W.N.W. of that of the Lempa. This river drains the Lake of Itopango, but we have no particulars of the anchorage. PORT LIBEATAD is about 50 miles to the westward of the Lempa. It was visited by H.M.S. Sulphur, and we copy her commander's observa- tions on it. One would naturally expect from this title that something pretending to a bay, or deep indentation at least, would have warranted the appellation. But a straight sandy beach, between two slightly projecting ledges of rock about a mile asunder, forms the^/rts« of Libertad. It is law and interest only that have made it a port. At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the beach being of large smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises they are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving strong bottom left, on which the boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally violent for three or four days, at full and change, which corresponded to the time of our visits. The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in 4 or 5 fa- thoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the most dangerous, are caused by the offset or efflux. a^t '- " '.ii-iiig : ■ ! ' ■ ■■ w."-> ^J r i g u ) M«"a'jjuc ''' i I ' lK IW--1I elieve that 9 valleys of ot far from le queBtion B found in coast, uIbo st near the ^, and is a extensively thers West le tops al- tlar to the ;he East or ite N. 16° the bar. ing you up ers, which It is quite iguel rises, g, and will the liiver 1 the Lake le Lempa. 1 ohservn- nding to a ation. But rock about only that 1 being of rises the,y ig bottom generally ded to the 4 or 5 fa- the most 'I •.:il«s<: i-i } % m :iM ti'i :L:.i4ii"ji,jl J, :!;: li' <»«I'J'-| POET LIBERTAD. 67 The sand bdaeh is composed chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried superstratum, about one inch in thickness, raking in flakes free from ad- mixture. The anchorage is uneasy, and I should think unsafe, and should bo avoided near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snap chain ca- bles, unless with a long range. Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but compared with those of San Salvador or Eoalejo, the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only be enbarkod in one of their bungoes. The port, afte. this, was for a long time deserted, but when Captain de Lapelin came here in 1852, it had been reinstated, and the custom-house stores re-built. A launch was also maintained, going out and returning by means of the andariyel. The mark for approaching it is to bring the volcano of San Salvador to bear N. A E., which bearing will lead up to it. When at 8 miles ofl'the depth will be about 25 or 27 fathoms, muddy bottom, which depth will gradually decrease toward the shore. At about 6 miles off you will begin to make out the large storehouse covered with trees, and with whitewashed walla, having a flagstaff to tho East, and a white house to the West; when nearer you will see the tops of the palmetto trees and some huts. When a mile off the place tho do^jth will be about 8^ fa- thoms. Water may be got though with difliculty, from the little River Que- lama, which falls into the sea at less than half a mile West of the village Capt. De Lapelin adds his opinion that this place should not be frequented between July and October. Sais' Salvadou, the capital of the redublic, is to the N.E. of Libertad. They are connected by a cart road 2G miles long. Sir Edward Belchor visited this city in April, 1837, going thither from Eealejo, the road being through a very mountainous tract. The town is very prettily situated on a level plain, or amphitheatre, from which several lofty mountains rise, that of the Volcan de San Salvador being the most con- spicuous.* San Salvador was the capital city of the confederation of tho • When wo first saw the mountain of Guatemala, wo wore, by judgment, 2;) leagues' dis- tance from it. As we came nearer tho land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no fire, but a littlo smoke proceeding from it. Tho land by tho sea was of a good height, yet but low in comparison with that in tho country. The sea, for about 8 or 10 leagues from tho shore, was full of floating trees or drift wood, as it is called (of which I have seen a great dc.ll, but nowhere so much as here), and pumice stones floating, whirh probably are thrown out of tho burning moimtains, and washed down to tlio shore by the rains, which aro very violent and frequent in this country. Tho Volcan of Guatemala is a very high mountain, with two peaks or heads, appearing like two sugar-loaves. It often belches forth flames of fire and smoke from betwcoa tho two heads, and this, as the Spaniards do report, happens cliiefly in tempestuous weather. Dampier, vol. i, pp. 22.J— 230. f8 / 03 COAST OP SAN SALVADOR. StatoB of Central America, and in imitation of tho Washington in tlio Unito.I States, it had a Federal district assigned to it, which included the lort ot Libertad, but this confederation was dissolved in 1831). It was a very hand- some city, of 2.'-. ,000 inhabitants, with line churches and public buddings: but on April IGth, 18.54, at 10 minutes to eleven, such a terrific earthquake occurred almost without the slightest warning, that in ten seconds tin entire city was thrown into heaps of ruins. It was then nearly deserted, and the seat of government was removed 10 Cojutopcque, about 12 leagues distant. But it is now in course of being rebuilt, the people having generally returned, and it may soon regain its former position. Under the auspices of a late President, DueHas, tho cart road was nearly completed to Libertad, a distance of about 22 miles. The COAST between Libertad and Acajutla is very uneven, covered with trees, or with reddish-coloured barren patches. On the sea it forms cliffs, bordered by a beach of shingle. It is known as the Costa del liahamo, as tho Indians here collect the "Balsam of Peru." It is, however, quite clean, and may be approached within view of the breakers. A district along tho coast, between the Ports of Libertad and Acajutla, is called, as above said, tho Coda del Bahamo ; it produces an article known commercially as the Balsam of Peru, from its having been sent to Lima for export to Europe. It is collected solely by tho aboriginal Indians who in- habit that district. About 20,000 lbs. (valued at two shillings, or 50 cents.) are obtained for annual export. Indigo is the chief article of export. Under the Spanish rule, the value of this article amounted to 3,000,000 dollars per annum ; but since tho inde- pendence of the state, it has sunk to little more than 1,000,000 dollars.- {Dr. Otis.) POET ACAJUTLA, or Sonsonate Eoads, is tho next attainable point be- yond Libertad. The principal town of this port is Sonsonate,* which is situated about lo miles inland. There is also a small village on the coast which gives its name to the port; it consists of about thirty habitations of various descriptions, • Sonsonate, or Zonzbnatc, doiives its namo from tho Rio Grando, foimed by almost in- numerable springs of water, to which tho n^mo otZezontlatl is given, a :Mcxican word mean- ing 400 springs, corrupted to Zon/.onato. " Santissiraa Trinidad de Zonzonate is situated on the llio Grande. It is a pleasant town, although the climate is very hot. Each of three monastic orders have (had) a convent here. The church is very spacious, besides which there are three oratories. On tho opposite side of the river it has a suburb called tho Barrio del Angel, on which there is a chapel. Tho communication between tho town and tho suburb is by means of a stone bridge. In the vicinity are three small Indian villages, &c."-J)on Bom. Jmrros : Translation by Mr. Saili/, y.2S, gton in tlio United iiuli'd the Port of t was a very hand- pviblic buildings: torrilio earthquake , sncondf" tin entire deserted, and the 2 leagues distant, generally returned, :t road M'as nearly lOven, covered with sea it forms cliffs, ■ (Id Jialsamo, as the srovor, quite clean, id and Acajutla, is 8 an article known on sent to Lima for il Indians who in- Uings, or 50 cents.) lish rule, the value ; but since the inde- 1,000,000 dollars.— attainable point be» is situated about 15 which gives its name various descriptions, lo, foimed by utmost in- n, a ^Icxican word mcan- le. It is a pleasant town, lave (had) a convent here, es. On the opposite side I there is a chapel. The f a stone bridge. In the irros : Translation by Mr. PORT ACAJUTLA. 60 most of thorn of the meanest order; they are constructed of bamboo open work at the wdes, and tlio top is rudely thatched of palm loaves, which latter is, however, made impervious to the lieavy rains that fall almost perpendi- cularly in the wot season. The tilo-roofed custom-houso stores is one of tlio most conspicuous buildings, and thoro is also still remaining the ruins of an old Spanish fort, in which is situated the dwelling-house of the governor. This officer performs all tho official duties of captain of tlio port, adminis- trator, &c. Tho business of tho port had increased considerably in conso- quonco of the duties being lower than in Guatemala. Vessels leaving Europe in August, September, October, November, and December, are sure to arrive during tho best season for disembarking on tho coast. No vessel should arrive later tlian the middle of April, as after that date tho rains set in, and a heavy sea rolls in upon the coast, which prevents the launches from venturing out. The port consists of an open bay, of which Point Romedios is tho eastern boundary. There is anchorage aU over it at a prudent distance from tho shore in from 7 to 15 fathoms water ; the bottom appears to be of sand, with here and there a patch of mud. Large vessels should not anchor in less than 12 fathom?. The surf breaks heavily on the beach, which renders landing in ships' boats almost impracticable. The usual mode of clfccting this object was in large canoes or bongoes, which are kept for the purpose of discharging car- goes.^ There is generally one of these kept afloat, moored just without the surf in the N.E. corner of tho bay, near where the village is situated: per- sons desirous of landing usually pull in in their own boats, transfer them- selves, with a portion of their crew, into the bongo, and haul in through tho surf to tho beach by a line fast to the shore for that purpose. To get on shore dry, they wi.l thon require to bo carried out through tho receding surf, which is about 1 foot or 18 inches deep. This contrivance, called at Istapa tho anda-rivcl, is described more fully on page 7.'3. Fonucrly this mode of landing and embarking was tho only ono practica- ble, but the increasing commerce of tho place, and the fact of a steep flat rock projecting from the shore about 70 feet at three- quarters of a milo from tho original landing place, and being deep water close up to this rock suggested to Dr. Driven, a rich proprietor, the formation of a pier. The rock had long been called El Mvellel The pier was completed in 1854, and consists of a substantial timber construction loading on to tliis rock, and has a crano by which the ships' cargo is discharged or embarked. Li front of the rock is a channel of 11 or 12 fathoms depth, and it is said that no sea is sent into it sufficiently heavy to affect a vessel mado fast to the four moorings placed there for tho purpose. Tliis immunity from danger may be doubted in some degree, but its safety is well understood by the local pilots. Water is conducted to the pier-head, so that it may be taken on board by a 70 COAST OF SAN SALVADOR. hose. By giving two clays' notice, fresh provisions may bo obtained in largo r(uantltie8 from Sonsonatc. Point RemedioB has a reef off it extending in a aouth-woHterly direction nooi'ly 3 milc« in lino woather. This roof searcoly sliowa itself, therefore more caution is noceswary in rounding it. Vessels of a light draught have fre- quently passed safely over tho outer part of it unknowingly, whereas several others, less fortunate, luivo boon brought up by detached rocks, and a total wreck has ensued. The point is long and low, thickly wooded, and from tho eastward easily rceogni/ed. Beef, poultry, vegetables, and fruit, aro plentiful and cheap. Water is plentiful on shore, but the difficulty of getting it off through the surf is very great ; however, if much wanted, it may be had with a littlo extra la- bour and perseverance. The mark for anchoring was, in 1852, the llagstaft' on with the largo door of the custom-house store, in 7 to M fatlioms, according to the season. Tho flagstaff should not be brought N. ofN. (51° E., particularly when near tho land, as tho bottom will then be rocky, and there is the chance of breaking or losing the anchor. The bottom is not good holding ground, and vessels sometimes drive. In tho line season tho current generally runs to tho E.S.E. at the rate of eight-tenths of a mile per hour. It is high water, at full and change, at 2'' 3o"' ; greatest range 11 feet. n.M.S. Uaiana anchored hero in May, 1859, in i'l fathoms, with the land- ing place N. SS'- E., and Point EemediosN. 81° 25' E., the shoal off the latter sheltering her from the S.E. Captain Harvey says : — Here we found a substantially built wharf, at which there is generally fair landing, although at tuues the surf is such as to prevent any approach. Merchant vessels discharge and receive cargo by their own boats. Beef, stock, vegetables, and fruits may be obtained in any quantity from Sonsona te ; but two days' notice must be given to secure having any considerable amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which were useful in getting off bullocks. A vessel shotild stand no nearer to the Eemedios Bank than to 20 fathoms without a good breeze and clear weather The volcano Isalco was burning the whole of tho stay. No lighthouse giyes a better light ; the bearing, N.E. by N. is a good mark for the port. The following observations on this port, and on approaching it, are by Captain Worth, of H.M.S. Cahjpno, in 1847 ; Acajutla, or Sonsonate Eoads, although not much known, is safe, the oldest inhabitant remembering only one wreck : the reef off' Eemedios Point breaks, the sea setting directly into tho anchorage. Here the salt water is very injurious to the cables and copper; although at anchor not more than a fortnight, the cable and anchor were completely covered with small shell-fish, as also the boom boats ; this remark is applicable to all the ports we visited on this coast, though not so much as at this place. )0 obtained in largo i-wowterly diroction self, tlieroforo moro draught have fre- ly, wliereaii aovorul rocks, and a total ludod, and from tho cheap. Water in irough the surf is h a little extra lu- ivith the largo door ,0 tho season. Tho ,rly when near tho jluuico of breaking jround, and vessels r runs to tho E.S.E. . water, at full and loins, with the land- shoal oiT the latter ,lly built wharf, at he surf is such as to id receive cargo by r be obtained in any ren to secure having 1 with cranes, which id no nearer to the so and clear weather No lighthouse giyes for the port, reaching it, are by known, is safe, the ofl' Eemedios Point lere the salt water at anchor not more covered with small iblo to all the ports [ace. PORT ACAJUTLA. 71 Tho passages to tho westward are uncertain as to time, tho laud and sea breezes being so very unsettled. Tho land-brocze always blows (if over interrupted, only for a short period) at all tho ports wo visited, except Conchagua, and is nearly al- ways sullicient to take a ship to sea. As a rule, I should recommend, on leaving any port, that you stand oH" shore, always bearing in mind that tho sea-breozo is from South to S.W. There is u current always sotting to tho S.E. Between Couchaguu and Acajutla tho pussugo is very tedious, being never loss than two days, and sometimes live, and oven longer, tho land-breezo being not to be depended on, and tho soa-broczo often very light, although at times tho soa-breezo will blow very fresh indeed. Tho best plan, after leaving Conchagua, is to stand rather oil' shore, so as to make a long leg off with tho Hoa-broozo. The coast is (luite clear, there being anchorage nearly all along it.' We found the sea-breezo seldom set in before noon, and often later, and a continual sot to tho S.E. Tho leading mark for Acajutla is tlie Isako Vol- cano, which smokes, and freriuently sends up largo jets of lire. On u N.E. by N. bearing it leads to the anchorage off Acajutla. Point llomodios, long, low, and thickly wooded, may easily bo recognised. This anchorage is difffcult for a stranger to find ; the best plan is to tako notice of the several volcanoes on tho coast, after leaving Conchagua; viz., San Miguel, San 'Vincent, and San Salvador. Tho land is u low beach, the soundings decreasing gradually to 10 fathoms, at ;5 or 4 miles offshore, until tho volcanoes are past, whon it becomes tolerably high, and has 25 fathoms at a little distance from the beach, particularly in the bight to the S.E. of Point Eemedios, where in that depth the surf can be heard quite distinctly. Point Eemedios, which runs out from this moderately high land, is low, and thickly wooded, appears to stretch a long way into the sea, and has several black rocks, one nearly a solid s(iuare, lying just oft' it ; these rocks are tho inside part of a reef extending o miles in a S.W. direction, on which the sea breaks heavily at times. On the S.E. side of this point tho beach is clear, having no rocks upon it ; but on the N.E. side it is broken by rocks and clumps of trees, dividing it into a number of small sandy bays. Should you not bo close in, you cannot make the point out, as it appears part of the low, thickly-wooded land that stretches from tho before-mentioned moderately high coast to the westward of Istapa. The Volcano of Isalco, 5,000 feet high, is decidedly tho surest mark, bear- ing N.E. i N., if it can be made out ; but, as it does not smoke constantly, and is situated on the side of, and is lower than, the mountains behind (Sierra Madre), it is very difficult to find. The Madre, and mountains to the westward of Isalco, are very high ; it may be known by the tableland top, in which it differs from tho others, they * 72 COAST OF OUATEMATiA. hoing conical, or approaching that form. Tho lealco in a coniLiil volcano, apparently on tho East sido of the Madro, and tho crater is about one- fourth down from the table land. The coast between Acajutla and San Josi' or Istapn, a diHtanco of .'56 miles runs W.N.W. and E.S.E., with Hcarcely any inflexion; it is throughout of gray sand, wooded to the shore, nnd boaton by a continual nurf. Here and there tho vegetation is cf a paler greon, and tho whitonod stems of tho mangroves indicate tho impassable entrances of tho Rios dva A'sclacos,* Pnz(i» (the stato boundary), Santiago, and Cauha. Thoro is no danger off shoro, and tho depths aro regular, of sandy mud. The current runs from "VVost to East, ut half u mile to ono niilo per hour. The best course to pursue in coming from Acajutla to Istapa, or rather San Jo86, is to keep 2 or a miles off tho land, in 16 or 25 fathoms, so as to take advantage of the land broozcs, which aro gonernlly light. The sea breeze often sets in from 8.W. to W.S.W., and then you can beat in shore into 12 fathoms. The load is an excellent guide, and there is nothing to fear, as tho depths diminish regularly. IJut when the sea breeze sinks about 6 p.m., and tho land breeze will not give you a way of 3 knots, it is better to auchor ut once, or you may lose gi-ound. 6. GUATEMALA. The Eepublio of Guatemala is the principal state of Central America, in respect of population and wealth. It is generally mountainous, but a large part of the interior consists of elevated lands of unsurpassed beauty of scenery, of vast fertility, and unquestionable^ salubrity. Its great deficiency is the want of ports on cither ocean, and thi^ fact will act as a great chook on its commercial progress. On tho Pacific it extunds from the Biver Fazas to the confines of Mexico. This last boundary has been tho subject of long dis- pute, but it was settled in 18.54 by Guatemala ceding all light to the rich dis- trict of Soconusco, extending for nearly ono hundred miles along the Pacific, on the payment by Mexico of a considerablo sum. The rivers falling into tho • " Tho lih dc loi Kiekvoi, which falls into tho sea West of \cajullu, is described hy Stephens as a wild majestic river. Ho crossud tho bridge over it, erected under tho Spanish dominion, und the greatest striicturo of that period. Tho village beyond was u mere col- lection of huts, standing in a magnificent situation near tho river, and above which moun- tains rise covered to their summits with pines. Every predatory or lighting expedition be- tween Quatemala and 8an Salvador passed through this miserable village. Twico within his route Slorazan's ai-my was so straitened for provisions, and pressed by fear of pursuit, that huts were torn down for firewood, and bullocks slain and eaten half raw in the street, •without bread or tortillas. After leaving this village, the country vans covered with lava." —Incidents of Travel. li. tt conieiil volcano, rater is about one- diHtanco of .'56 miles it is throughout of irf. Hero and there B of the mangroves * Pazda (the stato loro, and tho depths to East, ut half u itapa, or rather San oms, so uH to take t. Tho sea broezo ut in shore into 12 ;hing to fear, as tho C8 about 6 p.m., and )otter to anchor ut !entral America, in lainous, but a large arpassed beauty of Its great deticiency !t as a great chock the Biver Fazas to subject of long dis- ight to the rich dis- ss along the Pacitic, rers falling into tho Bjullu, id described hy :ctcd under tbo Bpunish beyond was u mere col- md above which moun- fighting expedition bc- i'illugo. Twice within sed by feur of pursuit, half ritw in the street, !as covered with lavH." ISTAPA. 7,1 Tacific are fow and small, tlio largest in the Mlvhilui/al, which passus the capital, but nonn of thoni can over \w of uho to navigation Tho famous volcanoes wh' h aro such a distinguiNhinw foaturo of iIuh great isthmus ore hero seen in thoir greatest majesty, and tliu Volcans do Agua, 14,500 foot, and Fuego, l;),900 foot (noarOld Ciuatoniala), and Atitlun ll,oO(» foet, have boon very frequently described. Tho present capital is Nueva Guatemala, tho third city of its name, and was founded in 1770. It stands at an elevation of 4,400 foot, in a vast and beautiful plain inland of its now port, San Jose. Cochineal, cofloo, cotton, and indigo, aio tho chief products for export, but tho first is tho groat staple of tho country. Liko its neigli- hour, the commerce (jf tho republic is largely indebted to tho various fairs which aro held in diilerent parts and in difforont seasons. I8TAPA, or Iztapam, at tho mouth of the Eiver Miehutoyat (or Miclii. toya), is tho outlet of tho Lake of Amatitlan, and is said to be navigable from the Falls of San I'edro Martyr, 70 miles from its mouth. It was from tho first tho port of Ouatemala, but it was closed on January 1st, 1853, when the port of San Jose, 8 miles to tho westward,, was declared to be the now port. This change was nautieally urimportaut, for l)oth places were alike, wild open roadsteads, without a single attribute to give it tho name yf port. The village now consists of a few grass huts. Istapu was an open roadstead, without bay, headland, rock, or roof, or any mark whatever to distinguish it from the adjacent shores. " There is no light at Eigh , and vessels at sea take tlieir bearings from tho great volcanoes of tho Antigua, more than CO miles inland. A buoy was anchored outside of the bi akers with a cable attached, and under tho sheds were three large launches for embarking and disembarking the cargoes of tho few vessels which resort to this place. Behind tho sand-bar were a iosy Indian huts, and Indians nearly naked. Generally the sea is, as its name imports, pacifae, and tho waves roll calmly to the shore ; but in tho smoothest times there is a breaker, and to pass this, as a part of tho fixtures of the port, au anchor IS dropped outside with a buoy attached, and a long cable passing from the buoy is secured on tho shore.* It was from this place that Alva- rho discharge nnd loading of vessels lying off Istapa, and other places on this coast, ^^hichisnotcflccted in the easiest manner through such a tremendous surf lashing the i'iirto"""^^™'""""^'*^"^'''"""'^"''""'"''"'"'"^ This contrivance consists of u cable made fast to a strong post on the shore, tho outer end :t which ,s secured by an anchor some distance outside tho surf. Within this ,mehor. v^hich IS marked by a buoy, but still sufficiently clear of the broken water, is another buoy attached to the wai-p, by means of which tho strong launch employed is ..iezed to it, or usts It ofl. Ihe launch having been brought to tho warp buoy, the warp is thrown into mwlocks. one on the bow, tho other on tho stern of tho launch. These are then bolted in with a pm to prevent their slipping oft; and secured by a stopper, wormed round it near 74 COAST OF GUATEMALA. rado fitted out Lis armament, and embarked Vvitli his followers to disput with rizarro the riches of Peru. — {Siejj/iens.) Tlio usual anchorage was with the flagstaff boariug between N. by E. am N. \ E, at half a mile off shore in 14 to 16 fathoms. It is best to anchor t the East of these bearings, as there the boats in landing have the advantag of the current which runs to the eastward at from 8-10 to IJ mile per houi Mountains. — The following remarks are by Mr. H. Thompson, master c H.M.S. Talbot : — The whole of this country is remarkable for its mountainou ranges, which may be seen in clear weather from a great distance seaward many of their lofty peaks and volcanoes serving admirably as beacons t guide strangers to the various little ports and roadsteads situated on it coast, which otherwise would not be easily found. Such is the case who; bound to the roadstead off the village of Istapa. There are visible from th vicinity of this roadstead, to many miles seaward, four conspicuous nioun tains, which aro situated as follows : commencing with the easternmost onf which is the volcano of Pacayo ; next West of this is the water volcano (Vol can de Agua) of Guatemala ; then the fire volcano (Volcan de Fuego) t Guatemala, and the last and westernmost is the volcano of Tajumulco. Tli first and last of these volcanoes aro of a moderate height, and flattened o scooped out at the top ; but the two middle ones, which are tho volcanoes c Guatemala, are considerably higher, and much more peaked at their tops Tho easternmost one of the two last-mentioned is the water volcano ; it hu but one peak, which at some periods of the year, is slightly snow-cappec and from the holes and crevices near its summit ice is procured the whol year round for the luxurious inhabitants of Guatemala. Tho fire volcano to the westward of the last-mentioned, and appears to have two peake summits, which open and close according to their bearing. From the roa( stead it has the appearance of one mountain with a deep notch in its summ: Tho upper part of this mountain has a whitish appearance, whi^h might mistaken for snow ; but I am informed that it is caused by the action of fii- Smoke is constantly emitted from it, and may be seen from the sea in cle weather. From the anchorage at Istapa tho true bearings of these fo' mountains are as follow : viz., volcano of Pacayo, N. 22" E. ; water volcai "1 I'f tho bolts. 1'hc lioffas, or wntormcn, Avutch the hetivcs of the sua, which, singuliirly i.'noui. iii'o always licavii'st in thrci'.-i, and when tho heaviest whao apiuoaehes. i,ho pilot gives signal, tho lashings wliith secure tlie how and stern are slipped, and at the same moment handa haul in tho waJii ; while runiiing on the tremendous wave she is lu-opellcd with incnso rapidity, and is usually driven on to the beach with tho succeeding wave, wl; generally forty or fifty Indians, with tho fall of un " apurrjo,'' or treble-purchase lino, M'h is hooked to u ring on tho launch's stem-post, and secured to the post, haul her high n dry with the next wave. It .tomctimcs happens that ihc practieo, or bowman, docs not t the right sea, and then a larger breaks over her, swamping tho launch, or damaging cargo, or perhaps losing it.— C I'. S/cintter, Etq, ijiLmoA LA. li Ilia followers to dispute iug between N. by E. and ,s. It is best to anchor to mding have the advantage . 8-10 to 1 J mile per hour. ■. H. Thompson, master of irkable for its mountainous a great distance seaward, g admirably as beacons to roadsteads situated on its I. Such is the case whon There are visible from the d, four conspicuous moun- ; with the easternmost one, 8 is the water volcano (Vol- ano (Volcan de Fuego) of olcano of Tajumulco. The ,te height, and flattened or which are the volcanoes of more peaked at their tops, s the water volcano ; it has ir, is slightly snow-capped, it ice is procured the whole ;emala. The fire volcano is ipears to have two peaked : bearing. From the road- , a deep notch in its summit, ippearance, whi^h might be eaiised by the action of lii'e. e seen from the sea in clear true bearings of these four 0, N. 22" E. ; water volcano ho sua, which, singularly (?nougli. ^■o apliioiichc'S, ihe pilot given thi- ipped, and ill Ihu sann; inoliiont all us wave shi; in in-opdlcd with iui- with thu succeeding wave, when 'Jo," or treble 'purchasu lino, which [>d to the post, haul her high and practko, or bowman, docs not taku ping tho launch, or damaging the SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA. 75 of Guatemala, N. 5^ E. ; iire volcano of Guatemala, N. 8^ W. ; and the volcano of Taju.muioo, N. 28^ W. The thatched roof of a large hut, in the village of Istapa, which was just visible ov - the high white beach, then boro N. 17-E., distant about 21 miles, and tho depth of water was about 17.^ fathoms. Tho alove bearings of either of the volcanoes of Guatemala nearly on will guide a vessel to within a few miles of tho anchorage, and sufficiently near to make out the thatched roof of tho above-mentioned hut, which is tho oniy object that marks tho spot, the remaining small huts, which constitute the .illage, being hidden behind the beach. There is also a ^nall flagstaff close to the largest hut ; but, unless the flag be flying, it is ditticult to dis- tinguish It, in consequence of its being mixed up with the trunks of trees that stand behind it. The entrance to the river is choked up by tho sea- beach, through which it has not strength enough to force itself. Tho village of Istapa consisted of about fifteen huts, which afford su Iter to about forty or fifty inhabitants, who occasionally find employment in discharging mer- chandise from the very few vessels that call here. In the bad season I should imagine this a very unsafe plrjo to anchor at, owing to its being entirely exposed to the ocean swe^i, which, with tho southerly winds, is exceedingly heavy. Landing is only practicable in tho hnest weather. SAN JOSE DE GUATEMALA, tho new port of Guatemala, established January 1, KS53, is at a place previously called Zwpote. There is not tho shghtest shelter, and there is always a very heavy swell, and rollers occa- aionally. Tho coast is veiy clear, running East and West. The anchorage is about three-quarters of a mile from shore, in 11 to 15 fathoms of water. Tho swell breaks heavily upon the shore, and out as far as 40 or 50 fathoms from the beach, making it necessary to use tho girt line ( aiida-rivel) for landing and leaving. The currents are veiy strong, and vary with each change of the moon, tho variations sometimes taking place within the short period of six hoiu-s. From Korainber to February the landing is easy. In March the ebb and flow of tho tide extends from 90 to 100 yards oyer tho shore, and at the flood-tide the surf is so heavy as to dash up the beach a distance of 100 to 120 yards. After March the sea is again calm till July, and from July to December it is agaiix rough, and the lauding difficult. An iron svmo-pilcd pier is in course of construction by the government of (xuatemala, extending from the shore to a point beyond tho breakers, thus enabling the transportation between ship and shore to bo performed at every season of the year with facility and safety. The town of San Jose has a population of between two and three hundred, •^upphes for vessels are, however, procured with much difficulty here, unless i)rovi8ion be previously made to obtain them from Escuiatla, u town -10 miles distant, on the road to tho capital. There are no means of refitting or re- 76 COAST OF GUATEMALA. pairing vessels at present. The modes of conycyanco to the interior are by mules and stages, and are sufficient. Diligences await the arrival of the Panama railroad company's steamers, for conveying passengers to the capi- tal, 90 miles distant, and the roads in the dry season are excellent. In the wet season the roads are bad as far as Escuiatla. Captain T. Harvey, K.N., who came here in H.M.S. Eamnu, in May, 1859, says that the place is utterly undeserving the name of a port, although it is the only landing-place for goods for Guatemala. The an- chorage affords no shelter whatever ; the surf has its full force. The only way a landing can be effected is by means of a surf-boat, and even this was capsized four times during our stay. The town of San Jose consists of some half-dozen grass huts and a flagstaff, which cannot be distinguished beyond five miles from the shore. The current generally sets to the westward, and yet a continuation of westerly winds will alter it. Capt. G. F. Emmons, U.8.S. Ossipee, who came here, in 1S68, says— San Jo86 is becoming a port of some importance as the only landing-place for goods on the coast of Guatemala, with this exception, it has no cl-Aim to the name of a port, being merely an open roadstead. The few griss houses composing the town are built among the trees on a high dark saidy beach, a large white storehouse which can be seen at a distance of 6 miles, forms the only mark on the coast for the port. The anchorage is opposite this house in from 8 to 13 fathoms sand, distant about 1, or H mile from the land. A he.-.vy surf breaks on the shore, and the communication is carried on by means cf hawsers attached to buoys moored off the beach, but the iron pier, in the course of construction, will facilitate commerce. A steamer from Panama calls hero once a fortnight. There is some difficulty in finding the anchorage of San Jos6, the coast line in the neighbourhood being one unbroken line of beach and trees ; the best marks, however, on coming from seawoTd, are the remarkable volcanic peaks of Guatemala, generally visible at lawn. Four of these peaks can be, seen from the anchorage on the following' bearings :— Tajamulco N.W. ^ N., El Fuego N. by W. h W., La Agua North, and Pacaya N. by E. J E. El Fuego and La Agua being the nearest and most conspicuous, the formoi' may be known by a deep notch in its summit, Avhilo the latter being brought to bear North, forms the best guide, till the white storehouse can be dis- tinguished. The position of this anchorage has been determined from several autho- rities to be in lat. 13" 53' N., and long. 90° 45' W. Of the coast of Guatemala to the W.N.W. of Istapa we have no particular account. From Malaspina's survey there does not appear to be any port, and the ocean swell must set on it with more than ordinary force. To tlic sailor, then, it is unimportant. The republic extends to the boundary of that of Mexico, once fixed at the Eiver Sintalapa (or Tilapa), a distance of '."■HHHMI ;he interior aro by the arrival of the engers to the capi- oxcellent. In tho , Havar.A, in May, name of a port, atemala. Tho an- il force. The only and even this was )86 consists of some jtinguished beyond the westward, and COAST OF GUATEMALA. 77 180 miles from Istapa. It forms the southern side of tho province If t:^nC^ "" '-'- Po-on Of the extensive bayMTth! Th^Pronnce of Milie„,e, is bounded on the West by the Mexican pro vmoe Soeonu^co, and extends along the Pacific 32 leagues. It was mTh n^." Zn r '~nr '^ '"^"'^^' ^'^^- ^^' ^"■"' ° - --bu lesrso allt rr.- ?' '""""" '^ ^''^'''^ ^y ^•-^^-'^ "vers ; of thoso the Hamala wh.ch discharges itself into tho sea, under the nam of the Xica lapa, :s the most important. It is fertile from its situation, and abundance of water ; the chief article of commerce is cocoa, so excellent in qua y as to be preferred by many to that of Soconusco. ^ ^ in 1S68, says— San f landing-place for has no cl'xim to the 9 few griss houses , dark saidy beach, af 6 miles; forms the ithoms sand, distant 8 on the shore, and attached to buoys jf construction, will onco a fortnight. San Jos6, tho coast each and trees ; tho remarkable volcanic f these peaks can be, ijamulco N.W. ^ N., saya N. by E. \ E. jpicuous, the former latter being brought irehouso can be dis- from several autho- pe have no particular ipear to be any port, inary force. To tlic i to the boundary of ]ilapa), a distance of CHAPTER II. THE WEST COAST OF MEXICO, BETWEEN TEHUAN- TEPEC AND MAZATLAN. The coast described in the present chapter may be said to be that of the South extreme of the North American continent, and is the southern sea. board of the provinces of Chiapa, Onxaca, Puebla, Mexico, Valladolid, and Guadalajara, portions of the Mexican repubhc. Our geographical knowledge of the republic, generally, is very incomplete and unsatisfactory. On tho Pacific shores, if the commercial importance of its few ports were at all commensurate with the natural riches of the dis- tricts of which they might be the outlets, navigators would be much embar- rassed by the deficiency of our charts and descriptions. But as few points ax-e visited for any purposes of trade, we have tolerably accurate and recent descriptions of those ports ; and in the ensuing pages it is hoped that there will be found ample notices to allow the ship-master to approach them with confidence and safety. Mexico, as is well known, has been the scene of constant intestine warfare and change for many years past ; and to this evil must be added the very great ignorance of the great mass of the people— a startling fact in a republic, the basis of whose safety is the capacity of the people for an intellectual self- government. When Nunez de Balboa tii'st landed on its shores (in the Mexican Gulf), Montezuma I. wrs emperor, and had extended the Aztec dominions to the Pacific. The conquest of his kingdom by Cortes is well known, and Mexico became a vice-royalty to Spain ; and, w^ith powers almost as absolute as that of the parent monarchy, Mexico was scarcely known to Europe, except by its issue of the precious metals. When Charles VI. of Spain abdicated in 1808, the royal authority here received a shock from which it never recovered; for an open insurrection broke out in 1810, and a national congress assem- bled in 1813, one of the earliest acts of which was a declaration of the in- N TEHUAN- d to bfi that of the I the southern sea« CO, Valladolid, and I is very incomplete rcial importance of I riches of the dis- Id be much embar- But as few points xccurate and recent is hoped that there pproach them with nt intestine warfare be added the very ng fact iu a republic, an intellectual self- the Mexican Gulf), )c dominions to the known, and Mexico t as absolute as that Europe, except by Spain abdicated in h it never recovered ; oal congress assem- iclaration of the in- MEXICO. 79 dependence of Mexico. Subsequently, the history is one of a sanguinary guerilla warfare, until, in 1821, Iturbide was made emperor, under the title of Augustine I. He soon abdicated and retired, but returning, he was apprehended and executed. The government was then modelled on a similar constitution to that of the United States ; but the original party divisions remained, though under different names. The campaign which led to the annexation uf Upper California to the United States in 1847 led to no in- ternal amelioration, and the first hopes of the world were defeated, when the state was destroyed as an empire by the death of the heroic Maximilian, To these disturbances, and consequent insecurity of property, must be attri- buted the embarrassments of commercial enterprise, the enactments of the law, and the long train of evils which lie so heavy on this fine country, and its otherwise, in many respects, good population. The country of Mexico, especially that part on the Pacific, is divided by tlie natives into tierras calientes, or hot regions ; the tierras tempMas, or tem- perate reg. >ns ; and the tierras frias, or cold regions ; the first including those beneath the elevation of 2,000 feet ; the latter tract occupies the most important part of Mexico, and, in fact, is that vast plateau on which Mexico stands. On the low lands of the coasts the heat, during part of the year, is insupportable, even by the natives, and thus the town of San Bias becomes annuallj' depopulated for a season. The Cordillera or mountain chain, which, in the southern Andes, is a well- marked line of lofty ranges, and less distinctly so in the North and through- out Guatemala, in Mexico divides to two somewhat indistinct branches, fol- lowing either coast. That to the South is irregular, and in some parts but little known. At the head of the Gulf of Tehuantepec it is about 60 miles off the coast, on an average, but leaves many valleys of slight elevation be- tween the detached portions of it. To the mariner most of them are unim- portant, unless wo mention the volcano of Colima, which becomes an excel- lent landmark for that portion of the coast. Most of the peaks are volcanic, some in activity ; and the usual volcanic j)henomeua of eruptions and earth- •luakes are frequent, the latter particularly so ; and many severe visitations of this sort are upon record. At Acapulco this becomes a serious bar to its permanent prosperity. Of our hydrographicul knowledge of the Pacific coast a word may be said. With some detached portions we am intimately acquainted, through the excellent surveys made in 1837-8, by Sir Edward Belcher, of the English navy, when on this coast in H.M.P Sulphur. These points of Guatalco, Acapulco, San Bias, Chamatla, and Mazntlan, will be found described hero- after. In the voyage of the French frigate Venm, commanded by Du Petit Thouars, who was o the coast at the same time with Sir Edward Belcher, we find some information ; and to M. Tessan, his hydrographical engineer, we owe some of the graphic information we possess. By Captain (afterwards H f Ji^ B ? " v;'. ' >?Miu^iLL ' i.iW i .WM4W >fl^ ' ^ • y.- 'r" 80 WEST COAST OF MEXICO. Eear- Admiral) Boechey, who was here in H.M.8. Blossom, the nautical world is informed of the exact nature of some of the islands and ports near the Gulf of California. For the remainder of the coast, the 'Ipanish charts of the Madrid Hydro- graphic Office furnish the details, in 1790 the Spanish Government do- gpatched an expedition, under Don Alexandre Malespina, for the exploration of these shores, a task which wo must suppose was completely performed ; but the publication of his journal, which was looked for by the learned of Europe at that period, was frustrated by Malespina, a little time after his return to Cadiz, being arrested by order of government, and thrown into the prison of Buen Eetiro, and afterwards transferred to one of the strong castles of Coruna. In this captivity El Padro Gil, a man of great learning and merit, also shared, and all papers and drawings belonging to, and collected by, the expedition, were seized and suppressed by the government. Of the cause of this little is known. The disturbed state of Spain, in reference to her overgrown and ill-attached colonies, might have led to suspicions against Malespina when in the country. Suffice it to say, that the charts, resulting from the survey, were subsequently published, as drawn up by Don Felipe Bauzd, F.E.S., from his observations while accompanying the expedition. Climate.— The following outline' of the climate, weather, 'c, by Commo- do -9 C. B. Hamilton, will be found useful. The West Coast of Mexico is considered highly dangerous in the bad season, namely, from June to 5th of November, and all the vessels obliged to remain in the neighbourhood lie up either in the secure harbour of Guaymas or at PichiUque, in the bay of La Paz, both in the Gulf of California. The hun'icanes that occasionally visit this coast ar' so much dreaded, that in the months of July, August, September, and October, the ports are deserted, and trade ceases. I believe the Frolic is the first vessel of any nation, whether man-of-war or merchant ship, that ever remained the whole bad season on the coast, and that off the two most dangerous ports, namely, San Bias and Mazatlan. I shall, therefore, give all the information I can relative to the bad season. The hurricane so much dreaded on this cc/ast is called the Cordonazo de San Francisco, a name given by the Spaniards, on account of the hurricane prevailing about the time of San Francisco's day, the 4th of October ; the word cordonazo signifying a heavy lash with a rope or whip ; but, from my own experience, and all I can learn, these cordonazos may be expected any time from the middle of June to the 5th of November. The worst ones that have been experienced of late years have occurred on the 1st of November, although the weather usually clears up about the 20th of October, and some- times even sooner ; and as soon as the weather does begin to clear up, a ship may, with common precautions, venture into the anchorages again, for ,Ai,^.M.^ MEXICO, 81 (, the nautical world and porta near the the Madrid Hydro - sh Government do. , for the exploration ipletely performed ; )r by the learned of little time after his [ind thrown into the of the strong castles great learning and ing to, and collected overnment. Of the lain, in reference to to suspicions against ;he charts, resulting 1 up by Don Felipe g the expedition, ler, "c, by Commo- lugerous in the bad I the vessels obliged » secure harbour of loth in the Gulf of much dreaded, that tober, the ports are whether man-of-war son on the coast, and as and Mazatlan. I the bad season, ed the Cordonazo de )unt of the hurricane 4th of October ; the whip ; but, from my may be expected any The worst ones that he Ist of November, )f October, and some- begin to clear up, a .nchorages again, for this reason, the weather will give ample warning of a coming hurricane ; whereas, in the previous four months, before the weather has cleared up, tho circumstance that adds to the dangers of this coast is, that owing to tho threatening appearance of the sky every evening, and tho violent thunder storms and squalls at night, accompanied by heavy rain and lightning, tho wind veering about, you are at first led to believe that the hurricane is coming every night, and latterly you see it is utterly hopeless to foresee the coming of it, as every night appearances were as bad as they could be ; the barometer here being of little or no use, and a tremendous sea occasion- ally setting in. Thus the remaining off this coast during tho hurricane season will cause great anxiety. The squalls and gales usually commence about S.E., and quickly fly round to the southward and S.W. ; you have generally time to get to sea when it commences at S.E. ; but, as I have before shown, you must go to sea every night, if you can, if you would be free from the dangers of the cordo- nazos coming on. But a tremendous swell frequently sets in whilst tho weather is in this threatening state, and the wind still light, which makes it impossible to get out. Moreover, if our boats happened to be out, and on shore when the swell came, it was impossible to hoist them in, and for this reason we have frequently been oblige*lo send our boats from the ship, with their crews, to be hauled up on shore, and remain there until the swell went down, that I might be ready to slip and go to sea. It appears that the cordonazos come on an average once in 6 or 8 years, and we experienced none duiing our stay, although we had a gale on tho night of the 21st of September. I was fortunately under weigh, and had plenty of room when it came on, having stood out to sea on the evening of the 19th, on account of the weather being bad, and fearing the full of the moon on the 20th. It commenced about 9'' 20" p.m. from the S.E., flying round to S.W., heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, with a very heavy sea, reducing us to close-reefed main-topsail, and fore-staysail, washing away a boat, and oblig- ing us to batten down. The squalls come on very suddenly, the prevailing winds being in the bad season S.E. to S. and S.W., and the heavy swell usually before and after the full and change of the moon. The swell is such as is seen in the Bay of Biscay in a heavy gale, and, unfortunately, usually sets into the bays before the wind comes. I therefore think, that a ship caught at anchor off San Bias, or Mazatlan, by a cordonazo, would have small chance of escape, especially off the former, as she would either go on shore or go down at her anchors ; to slip and stand out the instant it commences from S.E. is her best course. The range of the thermometer for June was 77' to 86° ; July, 80° to 87° ; August, 81° to 89° : September, 83° to 92° ; October, 83° to 90°. The barometer appeared to be of little service, usually remaining 30 inches ; North Pacific. a ■*f fff -i-i ' W,J ' - | >WH'^*. ' L^Ki '-iyw-' *y 82 WEST COAST OF MEXICO. seldom varying above a tenth, except during a heavy squall, when it rose considerahlij. After the 4th of November the coasting and other vessels again make their appearance on the West coast of Mexico. San Bias is very sickly during the bad season. Guaymas is healthy, although the thermometer stands there at the astonishing height of 106° in July, August, [and September; and, owing to the extremo dryness of the atmosphere, ships receive mv.ch injury by tho wood opening. Furniture, apparently well seasoned, there cracks and falls to pieces. On this coast there are some immense fish, of the ray species. I caught two of them, and with difficulty hoisted one on board; it measured 19 feet in breadth across tho back, the mouth was 3 feet 5 inches wide, and tho flesh was 3 feet inches in depth in the centre. I had no means of ascer- taining the weight, but found I could not lift it with the yard tackles and 60 men, it requiring 130 men with the heaviest purchases in the ship to hoist it in. These fish are common on the West coast of Mexico and Gulf of Cali- fornia, where they are more dreaded by the pearl divers than sharks or any other fish. Of tho eastern part of the Gulf of Tehuantepec we know very little more than is shown in tho chart from Malaspina's survey. The country is all volcanic inland, and, from tho proximity of the mountains to the sea, there is no stream of sufficient strength to penetrate across the beach. The GULF of TEHUANTEPEC, an inexpressive term, is given to the slender bay which exterls for about 180 miles westward from the frontier of Guatemala, and is derived from the unimportant town which -stands a few miles inland at its head. The American Isthmus is about 120 miles in breadth from the Gidf of Campeche on the Atlantic side, and has received much attention from its Bui)posed fitness for an inter-oceanic canal, as the country seems to be a remarkable depression of the Mexican plain. Surveys were made of the Isthmus by General Don Juan de Orbegoso and Don Tadeo Ortiz in 1825, and Don Jose Garay and Signer Gaetano Moro in 1842-43, for the same purpose, of forming a communication between the Pacific and tho Bay of Campeche, by means of a canal and the rivers falling into the lagoon of Tehuantepec, and the Eiver Goazacoalcos, which runs into the Gulf of Campeche. These surveys were not satisfactory, and it was accurately measured with the view of establishing a railway, by a scientific commission under General J. G. Barnard, U.S. Engineers, in 1850-1, by which its unfitness for a canal was demonstrated. Tho whole shore of Tehuantepec is subject to the visitation of terrific hur- ricanes (which take their name from the isthmus), sweeping with resistless Bquall, wlien it rose sels again make their Juaymas is lioalthy, ng height of 106° in remo dryness of the •pening. Furniture, B. y species. I cought it measured 19 foet iches wide, and the no means of ascer- yard tackles and 60 a the ship to hoist it and Gulf of Cali- 1 than sharks or any 'ery little more than mtry is all volcanic ;ho sea, there is no i. na, is given to the . from the frontier of which -stands a few h from the Gulf of h attention from its .ntry seems to be a an de Orbegoso and or Gaetano Moro in cation between the id the rivers falling 20S, which runs into itely measured with ision under General unfitness for a canal ition of terrific hur- sping with resistless VENTOSA BAY. gS fury along tliis inhospitable coast, which docs not afford a harbour of refiigo ovon for the smallest class of seagoing vossols. Sinco the end of the sixteenth century Tohuantopoc has been but vory httlo frequented; the sea retires daily from its shores, and the anchorage deteriorates every year. The sand brought by tiio Chimalapa incroa.s.^s tiio Iieight and extent of the sandy bars lying at the exit of the channel from tlio first lagoon into the second, and from this into the sea. Between the base of tho Cordillera and the ocean is a place which sepa- rates them from the lagoons, which, like an immense bay, communicates with the Pacific. This llano, or plain, consists of a shifting soil, formed by tho detritus of the slate composing the adjacent hills, a species of rock, which appears from time to time in crossing it towards the lakes, and oven on tho coasts, where it forms the islands and capes. Prom the Cordillera to the lagoons the plain occupies a space of about G leagues. Those of the lagoons most inland may be about 4 leagues broad ; and from its mouth, called the JIarra de Santa Teresa, to the point whoro tho two discharge themselves into the ocean, called tho Jioca Barra, may bo n leagues. This second bay, or inner lagoon, extends to tho westward in tho form of a marshy lake, to the extent of 9 leagues, undei- tho namo of Tilcma; and to the East, to the Barra de Tenola (Tomla), to about 30 leagues. There is but little depth in either of these; that outside has not moro than 14 feet in the centre, in the Hno of tho canoe navigation. The sandy tongue of land dividing tho interior lagoon of the Tiloma Marsh and that dividing this from the ocean, is formed by the waters brought down by tlio rivers coming from the Sierra Madro, particularly the Chicapa and tho Juchitan. _ Boca Barra, as above said, is the outlet of the extensive lakes which lio just within the line of sandy beach at the head of the Gulf of Tohuantopoc, lat. about. 16° 12', long. 94» 45', and, according to Mr. Trastour's survey, ex- tend for 12 miles xo the eastward, and for 22 miles to the westward of tliis entrance, varying from 3 to 11 miles in breadth. The Boca Barra is 500 ft. wide, with a least depth of 7 to 10 feet, but the current sots out of it with great velocity. Mr. Trastour, on Nov. 9th, 1860, at llf , found it to run out at the rate of 7J miles an hour. VENTOSA BAY.— TheBayofLaVentosa, the harbour of Tehuantopoc, is in lat. 16° 11' N. and long. 95° 8' W. Its S.W. limit is formed by the Cerro Mono, an isolated rock of an oblong shape, rounded at the summit, about 160 feet high and 2,600 in circum- ference ; and a little more to the South by a pointed rock, separated from the former by an interval fiUed in with sand, and forming an angular pro- jection into tho sea called the Morro Point. This point is the eastern oxtre- a2 '^^|U,tJJJ^l tI l .,JM■'^lJ^aJ l ..J,»;.J^^, . vuuJ>^^"^!^^v.^J4U^lM^,Ju ■ ww^i»J^J^^lW ' '" 84 WEST COAST OF MEXICO. rrity of a line of rocky hills which forma the coast for a mile to the west- ward, and is the termination of a spur from the Cordillera of Oaxaca. To tho northward of the Cerro Morro is the sandy beach, which trends first to the northward and then eastward, tho seaward limits of an extensive plain, scarcely broken by the isolated hillocks of Huazoatlan. This beach is cut by sandy and shallow lagoons, having several outlets into the sea, and by tlio bod of tho Tehuantepec Biver. At the time of tho periodical over- flowing this current flows over a low country before reaching the ocean, which it does by its mouth, a milo to the N.N.E. of the Mono. It appears to have good holding ground, the depth being 6 to 9 fathoms, sandy clay bottom. The greatest difi'erence in the level of tho water ob- served was 6i feet. Ships ride sheltered under the Morro. Tho N.N.E. wind commences in the middle of October, and ceases early in April. It is at its height, and blows without interruption in November, but after this it is not so regular, and gradually ceases altogether. If the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi (inO San Miguel Chimalapa, about 45 miles distant to the North and N.E., but visible from sea, are hidden by slate-coloured vapour at sundown, the northers will blow next day. If these mists are seen at the former hour on the southern horizon, tho S.8.W. wind will blow on the following day. Tho environs were carefully surveyed, under the direction of Major Bar- nard, in December, 1860, by Mr. P. E. Trastour, C.E., as a terminus for the Tehuantepec Eailway, which was proposed to cross the isthmus from the upper course of the Goatzacoalcos Eiver at Minatitlan. This river falls into tho Gulf of Mexico, and tho railway was proposed to terminate on the Pacific to tho north-eastward of the Morro, from which a pier was proposed to be run out for one-sixth of a mile into 6i fathoms. Salina Cruz Bay lies to the westward of the hills extending from the Morro of La Ventosa. From the termination of that group of high lands the sandy beach of Salina Cruz trends to W. by N. for about H mile, and bending to tho southward terminates at Salina Cruz Point, a rocky projection ofif which are several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent of a cable's length, but the water is deep, 8 and 9 fathoms, just outside of them. In the bay the depth increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8 and 10 fathoms at 3 cables' lengths from the sandy beach. At a quarter of a mile North of the point, at the foot of the high ground, is a spring. Salina del Marques lies to the westward of Salina Cruz, and is similarly formed, about 2^ miles in extent, with lagoons at the back of the strand. The town of TKnu.VNTEPEC is about 11 miles in direct distance northward from the beach of these bays. It has a population of about 13,000, and has several churches and a modern college. The coast beyond this is very imperfectly represented, and the names of places aro not recognizable on Bauza's chart. We have the following S' .!.lJl!.^! '?g ^- ' . ' - J-l-i X El mile to the west- i of Oaxaca. 3ach, which trends lits of an extensive ilan. This beach is ;8 into the soa, and ho periodical over- eaching the ocean, [ono. )ing 6 to 9 fathoms, el of tho water ob- 0. and ceases early in n in November, but >ther. Miguel Chimalapa, isible from sea, are thers will blow next e southern horizon, iction of Major Bar- is a terminus for the ,e isthmus from the This river falls into ninate on the Pacific was proposed to bo extending irom the jroup of high lands f about \i mile, and it, a rocky projection water, to the extent oms, just outside of near the shore to 8 .ch. At a quarter of a, is a spring. >uz, and is similarly ack of the strand. t distance northward bout 13,000, and has id, and the names of 1 have the following THE MORRO AYUCA. m ftorounts of two landing-places between Salinas and Guntulco, from tho Nautical Magazine, as related by Captain Peter Masters. The Bay of Bamba does not appear on tho chart. Tho following doscrip- tion is by Captain Musters -.—Punta de Zipgeua is in lat. 10° 1' N., long. !)5° 28' 30" W. (?) From this point to the Morro de Ystapa tho coast runs about W.N.W. by compass. Between these points are several bluff headlands. Thoy do not project far out from the general lino of coast, and afford no shelter. Punta do Zipegua forms the eastern part of what is called tho Bay of Bamba, and is a very remarkable headland. From the westward it shows itself with a bold dark cliff to the sea, about 400 feet high. It pro- jects out from the western lino of coast nearly a mile, and forms a kind of double head. A short distance within the outer bluff is a peaked hill, Avith the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone. It is quito bare of vegetation. Further inland, between 1 and 2 miles, tho ground rises higher in small hummocks. A few of them are quite bare, and others have a small quantity of stunted trees and bushes scattered over them. The head which forms the West side of tho Bay of Bamba is not so high, nor does it rise so suddenly from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It is also covered with bushes. Tho eastern side of Punta do Zipegua is covered with bushes and stunted trees ; the sand only showiug through the soil in very few places. When abreast of it, and off shore from 2 to 8 miles, the current was nmning to windward, W.S.W., from 2J to 3 miles per hour. About N.E., by compass, from the Punta de Zipegua, and distant from 4 to 5 miles, is a high reef of rocks, called Piedra de Zipegua, or Machaguista, in the chart. Island of Eschevau. Its greatest elevation is from 60 to 70 feet ; its length is about a third of a mile, running in an E.S.E. and W.N.'W. direction. It is said there aro no dangers near it but what can be seen. Between it and the main, from which it is about 4 miles distant, in a N.W. direction, is good anchorage ; the best is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef; they are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general lino of coast from Punta de Zipegua toward Tehuantepeo runs about N.E. by N., easterly. The beach, or Plaiju de Bamha, is about 5 miles long, and must bo very bad to land on with a fresh sea-breeze. There was more surf on it when wo landed than was very agreeable. The boat was half filled, although the wind was blowing along the coast. The Morro Ayuca, or Ayuta, de Santiago de Ystapa, according to Masters. Sir Edward Belcher places it in lat. 15° 51' 56" N., long. 95° 43' 56" \V., considerably to the southward of the Spanish chart. It is a bold cliffy point, surrounded by a reef, which has 3 and 4 fathoms close to it, and extending on the northern side to about IJ cable's length, some of the rocks being G visible. The bay, about IJ mile in extent, has a low sandy shore, i i I Rn WEST COAST OF JIEXTCO. iiinl vcHsols nmy anchor in fi or 7 fiitlioinn, (ino sand, at throo-qunrtovH of a mill) oil', 1)Ut only witli nortliorly windH. Noiir tlio Morri) is tho ontranco of the smnll rivor of Ayutn, tlio stronni Unit runs by lliiumiliilu (horoafter alludoil to) and Ystapa. There is n bur runH across tho ontranco to it. The canocH land on tho boach in pref(>ronco to going ovor it, as this is attended with dangor. A fow mih'3 to tho westward is the ^hrro ik la Laguna, near which is a Inrf^o liik(>, from which tho headhmd takes its name. Tho Bay of Rosario.— This name is not on tlio chart, but tlio following dcHcription, and directions for it are by Captain Masters : — Tho AVost sido of tho Day of Kosario is forraod by tho Morro do las Salinas do KoHarii), and is in lat. 15° 50' 25" N., long. 90" 2' W., by four sets of lunar.s taken East and West of tho moon. It projects about a milo beyond tho liao of coast. On tho western sido is a beach 4 or 5 miles in length to tho next head. When abreast of Morro do las Salinas it appears like an iwlund with (wo largo rotkd abroast of its eastern and western part ; but tho whole is conno( 'od to tho main. What appears to bo tho eastern rock, Ih a broken rocky head, about 160 feet high. Tho western is about half the elevation. Uoth those heads terminate with a broken cliff; tho tops of them are bare, and of greyish colour ; the lower part is quite black, caused by tlio sea washiii'^ against thorn. Between those heads is a small sandy bay, which is at tlio foot of tho Morro, and rises gradually from tho boach to tho top of tho hill, and is about 180 to 200 feet high. It has a low stiaggling bushes on it, but its gene ' appeoranco is very barren. The bea' h of Eosario is 10 miles long from - " 'To las Salinas to ]\Iorro do la Laguna Grande, which is its eastern extromuj . '*bout half tho distance between tho Morros is a rock on tho beach, about 40 feet aigh, and nearly tho samo diamotor ; at spring tides tho water flows round it. During tho timo of our lying in the Bay of Eosario, which was from tho 12th of February to tho Ist of April, wo had three smart northei's. These camo on at tho full and change of tho axocn. At this time the surf runs very heavy on the boach. Our boat w^as capsized sevoral times whilst we lay hero, in landing and coming off. Al ti'ios tho sea broke very heavUy in all parts of the bay, that is, on tho beach. I was caught on shore, a fow days after arriving here, during tho first norther, which came on suddenly with a parching hot wind. A cross, confused sea hove in from tho South and N.E. Tho wind must Imvo blown strong out in the gulf, from the samo direction, and though it blow very heavily for three days, with the wind at times to tho westward of North, tho sea kept up until some timo after tho norther had ceased blowing. This is not generally tho case, for a strong norther (and in particular if it veers to N.N.W.) beats the sea down, at which timo landing is attended with little or no risk, which was tho case when wo had tho last two northers. I was informed (and judging from appearancs I think oo-quartoi'H of a yuin, tlio btronin Thero in n bur icli in prof(>ronco nenr Mliich is a Lit tlio following TO do Ins Siilinns by four sots of t a niilo beyond ilo8 in length to uiipoara liko an ■n purt ; but tbo istorn rock, in n 8 about half tlio tho tops of thorn ik, caused by tlio landy bay, which ach to the top of haggling bushes .'.h of Eosario is Laguna Grande, woon tb« Morros imo diameter; at loll was from tho aorthei's. These he surf runs very )8 whilst we lay py heavily in all (lore, a few days suddenly with a South and N.E. I same direction, wind at times to ifter tho norther a strong norther n, at which time so when wo had ipearancs I think DAY OF nOSAKTO. ^ rorrootly) that very often when tho wind is Noith or N.N.W.. doso in shoro, it is N.E. in tho offing, which makos it impossihl** t„ Innd.m tho coast. I romarkod whilst lying her., at tho full and clmng.. oi iho mo,)„. when no i.orthor was blowing, that although tlio surf ran so higli that no boat could land, tho vessel lay without any motion. Wo wero moored less than .'JOO fathoms from tho shore. Tho sur*" appeared not to bo caused by a swell rolling in, and agitating tho sea at tho .-.uriaco, but to riso from below and without any apparent cause, as wo had light winds and lino weather tho most of tho time wo lay hero. On another occasion I was caught on slioro with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to tho ship, tho boat was capsi/od and stove. It was then, and hid boon for a week pro- vious, nearly a calm. The heavy ground swell invariably liovo in from tho S.S.W. Wo fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at dif- ferent times, wlio wore saved from being drowned by a mero chance. In addition to what has already been said about this part of tho roast it can bo known by tho low land at t^.c back of tho beach of Rosari... This runs in from 1 to 2J leagues before there is much riso in it, and is thickly covered with trees. From North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2 leagues from tho shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage where wo loaded at, tho following bearings wero taken, lying in 2J fathoms water, sandy bottom. There aro two larger patches of a whitish appearance, tho farthest rango of the Cor- dilleras, tho eastern is ^,lso tho lowest, and bore N. 591° W. Tho appear- anco cannot bo seen, desa from a littlo to tho westward of Morro do las Salinas. This has every appearance of being a waterfall, and rises from th other po^ch in a N.W direction at about an angle of 45°. It issues from a smaU valley in the Cerro del Chonga. The highest point of this range haa but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. Tho waterfall in- clines towards tho South, and can bo seen for several hundred feet descend- ing before it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Corro do Zadan boro N. 89° W., and tho oxtreme bluff of Morro do las Salinas, S. 3G° W., SJ miles. The eastern point well within tho bearings, and Punta de la Laguna arando, N. 71° E. 6 to 7 miles, and rock on tho beach (already mentioned as 40 feet high), N. 65° E., and tho galena or shed, under which the cargo was piled, N. 26° W. half a mile; bearings by compass. At the western part of the bay are four palm trees close to tho beach. Tho distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half a mile, and between these trees and the Morro is a larger cluster of palms. Between those two clusters is at all times the best placo to land, as a boat can beach hero with comparative safety, when at every other part of the bay tho sea runs very heavy. At tho neaps wo found the place quite smooth, with tho exception mstm'J^s'-ihvii^f.i- 1 ' »ywgg>ff v.': '4 taj£Mcg»iJ fr y 88 WEST COAST OF MEXICO. of a sea heaving in at about every 10 or 15 minutes ; but it causes no risk to a boat provided she is kept end on. At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway loads to cross the Morro de Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the cliflf of a rock, is a small spring of excellent water. Wo always found it clear and cool, even at noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did n^^t exceed 30 gallons, and after having landed all our water-casks we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena abreast the ship. We filled our water at a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited ; it being the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing, we did not complete our stock. A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here, either with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made ; and, as water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one, and cutting the other, should be immediately commenced on their arrival by some of the ere'?'. It is useless to employ Indians to work for the ship (that is, on shore), the greatest part of them will neither bo led nor driven. On board they answer better (that is, a few of them) to haul the wood about in the hold. I found the promises of Indians, and, as they called themselves, "^ente de- cente y cmltsado," on a par. From the Bay of Eosario to the Island of Tangolatangola there are several small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast, with the exception of Moito de las Salinas de Eosario. Most of them have a steep cliflf facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches between them ; at the back of which are scattered a few small trees and bushes, the land rising in very iiTegular shaped hills toward the Cordilleras. Abreast of the beaches, between the heads, tho anchorage is quite clear, and when in from 9 to 12 fathoms water the distance oflf shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom. The Island of Tangolatangola is not shown on the charts. It is, however, thus mentioned by Dampier. " At the small high island of Tangola there is good anchorage. The ioland is indififerently well furnished with wood and water, and lies about a league from the shore. The main against the island is pretty high champion sa- vannah land, by the sea ; but 2 or 3 leagues within the laud it is higher, and very woody." Capt. Masters describes it thus :— *' The Island Tangolatai gola is E.N.E. 3 miles from Guatulco, and is separated from tae main by a channel a quarter of a mile wide. This makes from the westward as a part of the main land ; the outer part of it is quite bluflF, or rather a cliff of a brownish stone, tho strata of which is horizontal, and has the same geological appear- ance as the land on the main nearest it to the N.E., and of the same height, l ; ; but it causes no risk to re a small pathway loads in the cliflf of a rock, is a . it clear and cool, even at ock of water from it with Lg about it. The quantity gallons, and after having , through a great deal of I. We filled our water at was very limited ; it being f our sailing, we did not I'hen he comes here, either * by whom made ; and, as ^ the one, and cutting the ir arrival by some of the he ship (that is, on shore), • driven. On board they wood about in the hold. led themselves, "^ente de- latangola there are several 1 the general line of coast, ario. Most of them have es between them ; at the bushes, the land rising in Abreast of the beaches, and when in from 9 to 12 e, with sandy bottom, le charts. It is, however, )od anchorage. The ioland ir, and lies about a league pretty high champion sa- i the laud it is higher, and Tangolatai gola is E.N.E. tae main by a channel a westward as a part of the rather a cliff of a brownish le same geological appear- ',., and of the same height, POET GLATULCO. 89 namely, about 150 foet. Within the island, and round the western side, is the entrance of the Bay of Tangolatangola ; it runs in about N.E. 2 miles. At the bottom of the bay is a fine sandy beach ; tho anchorage is said to be very good in it, but not oqual to Guatulco ; its entrance is more than a mile across, and continues nearly the same to the bottom." The Hiver Capalita, both according to Dampier and Malaspina'.s chart, must fall into the sea hereabouts. Dampier says that it is rapid and deep near its mouth. PORT GUATinCO lies next along the coast, and is a very secure har- hour. According to Sir Edward Belcher'? survey of it in 1838, some islets that lie off its mouth are in lat. 15" 44' 25", and long. 96° 10' W. Dampier's clear and graphic account of it is as follows :-" Guatulco is one of the best ports in all this kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the moutli of the harbour, on the East side, there is a little island close by the shore ; and on the West side, half a mile from the mouth of the harbour, there is a great hollow rock, which, by the continual working of the sea in and out, makes a great noise, wliich may be heard a great way. Every surge that comes in forceth the water out of a little hole on its top, as out of a pipe, from whence It flies out just like the blowing of a whale; to which the Spaniards also liken it. They call this rock and spout ' the buffadore ' {hu/adero, Spanish, a roarer), upon what account I know not. Even in the calmest seasons tho sea beats in them, making the water spout at tho hole, so that this is always a good mark to find the harbour by.* This is pJso described by Mr. Masters. " The harbour runs in N.W., but the West side of the harbour is best to ride in for small ships, for there you may ride land-locked, whereas any- whore else you are open to the S.W. winds, which often blow here. There is good clean ground anywhere, and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathoms r it is bounded by a smooth, sandy shore, very good to land at, and at tlio bottom of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water running into the soa. Here formerly stoo-' a small Spanish town, or village, which was taken by Sir Francis Drake ; but now there is nothing remaining of it • This description will also exactly apply to another of these singular phenomena, the SoHffleur (Fronch, blower), at the South point of tho Jlauritius. Hero tho water is driven up with cnonnous force to tho height of 120 to HO feet above tho waves, and may bo heard u long distance. They are also seen too, at times, around the bases of icebergS, and there was one, tho Devil's Trumpet, on the coast of Cornwall. Other instances, loss striking, might bo adduced of these singularities, which aro well worthy of a s^viman's attention,' showing, as they do, tho power the waves exert, which, to raise such a column of water as above mentioned, must be from 3 to 5 tons per square foot. «. » ii m'WU » aa.-J a»;.i«aj ,,. «-i>g.u' ma, i vjMr M a,«»,:t , «rt rmmK il!!><1i > i. wt nr 90 WEST COAST OF MEXICO. bosidos a little chapel standing among the trees, about 200 paces from the Boa." I Tlio following romarkf?, by Captain Masters, will complete tlio description ; — Santa Cruz, Port of Aguatulco {Gttatuko), is vei'y difficult to make ; it i« situated in a small bay about half a mile wide at its entrance, and runs in to the northward upwards of one mile and a half. At the bottom of the bay is a sandy beach ; on its eastern part two huts are built, which cannot bo soon unless close in-shore. E.S.E. three-quarters of a mile from the eastern point which forms the bay, is the Piedra Blnnca. This is a reef of rocks extending East and West about a quarter of a mile. The western part of the reef is nearly 40 feet high ; for about one-third of its length it is of the same eleva- tion ; the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, in places level with the water. When abreast of it and off shore a few miles, it appears to bo a part of tho coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irre- gular sha^ied reef of rocks. The anchorage in Guatulco is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all winds, except between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongest winds blow from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may bo considered a very safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour to tho east- ward of Acapulco, and even in the rainy season, I was informed that a vessel might lay there in perfect safety. The depth of water in the bay is from 7 to 9 fathoms, with a clear bottom. When about 5 miles off tho shore from tho Bufadero, the western extreme point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as tho land adjoining. When about two leagues off shore from the Bufadero, another capo further to tho westward can be seen. Its extreme point is rather low, but rises gradually inland to a moderate elevation. To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when abreast of them, might bo taken for islands. Tho first is about 3 miles from the port, tho other is 2 miles further to tho westward, and has a white sandy beach, from which to tlio Bufadero the coast is rocky. Tho land which crowns this part of the coast is covered with stunted trees and brushwood. N. 8 J'^ AV. (by compass) between 4 and 5 leagues, is tho Cerro Zadan. Its top is bcU-shaped, and it has a ridge on its N.E. side, connecting it with tho higher range of the Cordilleras. The Cerro Zadan is elevated above the sea rather more than 6,000 feet. The moimtains further inland a few leagues cannot bo much short of 10,000 feet high, as they can bo seen over the Cerro Zadan. * Guatulco soems to havo been an iinfortxinato place during tho buccaneering expeditions against tho Spaniards, for Sir Francis Drake sacked tho placo in 1574, and \\, was burnt in 1.587 1))' Sir Thomas Cavendish, among other places. Tho reader will find many notices of these and similar incidents in Admiral Bumsy's collection. \ w w r M ' »iii^aiMi> w ,v^iiii I I . 00 paces from tho te tlio description ; lit to make ; it in ice, and runs in to attom of tho bay is ch cannot bo seen n the eastern point of rocks extending part of the reef is of tho same olova- places level with it appears to bo it is a dark irre- 1 sheltered from all rongest winds blow ) considered a very irbour to tho east- rmed that a vessel the bay is from 7 e western extreme ) high as tho land Bufadero, another oint is rather low, ich, when abreast 3 miles from the as a white sandy Tho land which es and brushwood. Cerro Zadan, Its connecting it with is elevated above irther inland a few can bo seen over jcanoering expeditions 1, and ii, was burnt in [I iind many notices of PUERTO ANGEL. gj The Port of Guatulco is so l,ad to mako that vessels have boon upwards of a ftn-tmght in searching for it. It was by tho greatest chance possible wo had not passed it, although wo were not a milo and a half from the shore Ihe two liuts wluch wore on the beach can scarcely bo distinguished from tho trees near which they are built. The coast beyond Guatulco trends a little to tho South of West, for '>0 or 30 leagues. At about a league West of Guatulco is a small green island called Saenfiuos, about half a mile long, and half a mile off the land There appears to be a fine bay to the AVest of the island, but it is full of rocks Ih., best anchorage is between the island and the main, where the depth is about 5 or 6 fathoms, sheltered from easterly winds. High water at 3" 1.5-. ihe tide runs strongly, rising and falling 5 or G foot. The land winds aro hore at North, and tho sea breezes generally W S W sometmies at S.W., with an easterly current. " "' Westward of Sacrificios tho shore is all formed of sandy bays, tho .—'ry tolerably high and wooded, with an enormous swell tumbling in '.ore. " ^■./-•iRTO ANGEL, or Port Angeles, a new port, open to tho foreign and coasting trado, on February 1st, 18G8, is 20 miles AVost of Sacrificios Island accordmg to Eauza's chart. We have no recent particulars of it. but the fol- lowing from old Uampier may bo useful. It is a broad, open bay, with two in Tir Z '!': '''"* '•'" "^'""^ '^ ^^^'^ ^"^''"^•"^'^ '^U -- "- bay n 30, 20 or 12 fathoms water, butyou must lie open to all winds, except tho and -nds^ until you get into 12 or 10 fathoms; you will then be sheltered r ! V . T' "'° '^'^ '^'"'""'^ *^«'^'' ^^°'^«- Tlio tide rises about foot ; the flood setting to the N.E., and tho ebb to the S.W. Tho landing m the bay is bad, behind a few rocks ; the swell is always very great Tho land bounding tho inrbour is tolerably high, the earth sandy and yellow in some places re,l It i. partly wooded, partly savannahs. ' ' ' "" I^gI^eenmUc.^..tward of I'ort Angel is a small roclcy island, half a Tplnlt Z. """' " '" '"'" ''"' '''' ™"^^'^' ^"'^ " S^-* «- ^'^"« Ne,r tho 4lco;. . Jioc^ (in l„„g. 97= 30' W., Malaspina), the laud is mode- u. ely high and wo. 1. . ; farther within land it is mountainous. Five or six mdos to tho A^■ost tho Alcatras aro seven or eight white cliffs by the sea, "•h aro very rer.arkable, because there are none so white nor so close to! other on all tho coast. There is a dangerous ehoal lying S. by W. from ose clifts,4.r5milesoffatsea. Two leagues to the West of 'these cliff" there is a tolerably large river, which forms a nmall island at its mouth. Tho oast<.rn ca;i.,..l la shallow and sandy, but tho western channel is deep enough wr canoo=' to enter. """bn %ond .^^, ' ,0 .h,rt affords, wo have no information of tho coast to the westwara. ho, oral lagoons aro marked. Willi Ml I ••nvvmautai a mu i M t 92 WEST COAST OF MEXICO. Cmcaul Point is about 62 miles beyond Alcatraz Island, and is higher than the sandy coast on either side of it. A shoal extends for 4 miles seaward of it, having as little as 10 feet on it. H.M.S. Tartar struck on this shoal, March 4th, 1863, and places it in lat. 16" 11' N., long. 98" 32' W. The ves- sel's draught was 18 feet, but the least water obtained was 3^ fathoms — {Capt. G.H. Richards.) Off Cuacaul Point, from 2 to 3 miles distant, there is anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms, sheltered from the S.W. by the shoal. The iZiVer Bulce is 12 miles N.W. of Cuacaul Point; tho Clio Rock lies 3 miles off it, 3 miles from shore, with 6 fathoms around it. ACAPULCO. This celebrated j i'-^ has sadly fallen from the high position it once held among the planes of . ^rcial importance in the world. It owed all its prosperity to the system ^^. jvsued by the Spanish colonial policy, and, when that power became annihilated in the new world, Acapulco descended, not to its level aa a harbour, for it is one of the finest in the world, but to that of the capability of the surrounding country in supporting it. This, as is well known, is very limited, and the foreign trade that it has across the Pacifi« is of very minor importance. In addition to tho changes in its external relations, it has some very serious drawbacks to any pennanont prosperity. The climate is extremely hot, and pernicious to European constitutions. This is increased by the proximity of a marshy tract to the East of the town. During the dry season this marsh dries up, and occasions the death of great quantitit s of small fish, whose decay under a tropical sun produces no ordinary amount of pestilential va- pours to be diffused, a fruitful source of the putrid bilious fevers so prevalent here and in the vicinity. Being entirely surrounded with high mountains, the sun has intense power and the usual breezes are in a measure intercepted. To remedy this, an arti- ficial cut was made through the chain of rocks which surrounded the town ; this has caused a freer circulation of air. It has been well surveyed, and the plan from the united observations of Sir Edward Belcher and M. de Tessan, the Hydrographical Engineer to the ex- pedition of Admiral Du Petit Thenars, in the Venm, with later, will give a perfect idea of the port. It consists principally of one extensive basin, in an angle of which, on the N.W. side, stands the town. At its head are some whitish rocks, the Fiedras Brancas, useful as marks in entering. There are two entrances, formed by Roqueta or Grifo Island. That to the North of it is called the Roea Chica or Little Entrance, and is narrow. The principal entrance is between itmtmmtf- — , and is highor than r 4 miles seaward of ;TUck on this shoal, 8''32'W. Theves- was 3 J fathoms — .nchorage in 8 or 10 ;ho Clio Rock lies 3 position it once held [d. It owed all its d policy, and, when ico descended, not to [d, but to that of the lis, as is well known, he Facifi« is of vety las some very serious ) extremely hot, and by the proximity of r season this marsh f small fish, whose t of pestilential va- B fevers so prevalent m has intense power remedy this, an arti- Tounded the town; d observations of Sir Engineer to the ex- ;h later, will give a angle of which, on I whitish rocks, the are two entrances, I it is called the Boca entrance is between AOAPULCO. 93 the South point of (?n>(5/./«^«7>,-„,) and the S.E. point (2?r«> Point) of the harbour, and is above H miles in width. It is quL dear. ^ Eashrard from Bruja Point is Port Marques, extending 2J miles E.S.E. e!;^' T " ^'""'""''' ^'"''- '^^' ^^y> *««' "