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BUGBNB, ORBOON : PUBU8HBD BY THB UNIVBRSITY, NOVEMBER, 1 898. PRICE 25 CENTS. OULET •,EIV\1- The University Bulletins are published by the authorit the Board of Regents eight times a j-ear. The Bulletin will year be taken up with the installments of the Semi-Centeii "^ History of Oregon. This work will be sent gratuitously, pos' ^-^ paid, to all teachers actually employed in the schools of Orq -r- during the year. i Subscriptions should be sent to J. J. Walton, Secretary the Board of Regents, Eugene, Ore. The price of subscriptio for the whole work (see prospectus on inside of back cover) is o dollar and fifty cents. For the benefit of clubs and schools ^ special rate of one dollar and twenty-five cents each is made l^ an order of six or more subscriptions sent to the same P. O. a dress. This number is sold at 25 cents. ULLETIN OF THE UNIVER5IT\ OF OREGON. HISTORICAL, SB8.IES VOL. I. SC 2. )EM1-CENTENNIAL HISTORY OF 1 OREGON. the authorit Builetin will Semi-Centen f> "•tously, pos. ^ -hools of Oro, "^ I i 5n. Secretar}' ' of subscriptio ^ck cover) is o a"d schools ^^^ is made S same p. o. a EXPLORATION NORTHWESTWAKD, BY F. G. YOUN'G. Editor Historicai. StMiss, TIIK HUDSON'S BAY COMPAJTV REOIMK IN THE OREGON OOrXTRY, BY EVA EMERY D\'E, A. M. PUBLISHED WITH THE APPHOVAL OF THE REGENTS OF THE rXIVERSITY. EUGENE, OREGON: PUBLISHED BY THE rjflVERSITY. NOVEMBER, 1S9S. PRICE 25 CEJrtS. THE LIBRARY THE UNlVtRSn Y OF BRIl ISH COLUMBIA »>*<*■-.' '■t^U^.-t^^^^iH i> t -J . 'Me ^//tHifrjf/y .^.:^/'//4i/ 6o///»i/'(fr CONTENTS. «•,''' «kV KXPI.ORATION NORTHWESTWARU _ - - _ Point of view afforded in Oregon history — Process of Exploration — Time required to penetrate from Cuba to the Columbia basin — What is exemplified by exploring activities in this period- Three per- sistent geographical ideas— Magellan discovers an impracticable route to the south — Cortes turns to the north in search of the desired passage —Atlan- tic coast line developed — Cortes' explorations — His successors on the California coast — Cabeza de Vaca, Coronado and DeSoto — Drake as England's champion in the Anglo-Spanish struggle — English search continued in the northeast — Spanish search for harbors on the Pacific coast for vessels return- ing from the Philippine Is.- -Progress at theojien- ing of the 17th centur>' — The French develop the geography of the interior of the continent — Ber- ing's voyages — The whole coast is traced by the Spanish — Cook's explorations and the beginning w the fur trade — The discovery of the Columbia river by Capt. Gray — Mackenzie and Lewis and Clark make transcontinental passages, the latter trace the Columbia to its mouth — Rcsmne and the principle in accordance with which posession of the explored continent was determined. Thk Hud.son's Bay Company Regime in the Oregon Country - --____.. The spirit of commercial venture leads England out over the world — America has also profited by it — Americans precede the British into the Oregon country — For a time Oregon is neglected by them — The Hudson's Bay and its rival, the North- west Company — Dr. McLoughlin's empire on the Pacific— Social events at Vancouver— His beneficent rule — ^The Anglo-Saxon maintains himself while other peoples succumb — McLoughlin as friend and protector of the pioneer- Humanity has an ill reward. PACK. I EXPLORATION NORTHWESTWARD. , The ir.itial papers of this Series were designed to give the reader in a tentative way his bearings in Oregon history. In them the fundamental motives impelling the explorer and pio- neer northwestward and the trends of their courses were referred to. The stages of growth from an Oregon settlement to a community and from a community to a commonwealth with its more salient characteristics were pointed out. There is a charm in the launching of a ship or in the un- veiling of a statue. How grandly fascinating should be the un- veiling of a continent clearly seen. Oregon history gives a stand- point for viewing in its unity and virtual completeness the process of disclosing a continent of its darkness and myster>'. The Oregon country was the last of the habitable portions of the continent to be brought within the ken of civilized man. Before we trace the progress of this unveiling towards the Columbia River basin let us inquire somewhat more minutely into the nature of the process itself. 25 a. SIvMI-CI^NTI'lNNIAI, JIISTOKV Ol" oKlvCON k "II Wo wish to make ourselves thoroughly acquainted" says Dr. Kohl, "with the history of discovery in the New World, we must not only follow the navigators on their ships, but we must look into the cai)inets of princes and into the countint^-houses of merchants and likewise watch the scholars in their speculative studies." An explorer Inicame possessed with certain geograi)h- ical ideas represented by the map of some geographer. This wa.s his chart for his voyage. He was commissioned by some sf)vcreign, or at least inspired by' some national motive. His discoveries became the possible basis of a future political exjian- sion. His log-l)ook, the record of liis voyage, led the ifeographcr to mcKlify his theories and correct his map, which in turn became tlie chart for future voyages. The process of exploration thus involved the co-operation of these several agencies and their mutual interaction. This process in its essential nature is prob- ably iiest conceived of as the growth of the geographical ideas of the world's mind — the navigators act as the organs of sense in getting new data, the scholars as centers interpret these and revise the previously held ideas, the monarchs and merchant companies originate and commission n^w impulses y\ the shape of new ex- peditions for further progrv^ss Ainiiversaries of the landing of Columbus in the West Indies and of Captain Gray on the banks of the Columbia were celebra- ted recently in the saiiie year (1892). It was, however, the four hundredth of the discovery of America and the one hundredth of the discovery of the Columbia. It took an even three hundred years to penetrate from Cuba to the Columbia basin. What could afibrd more favorable conditions for understanding the factors accomplishing a process than such deliberate passing of it through the centuries? The results of five nations having extended their lines of explo- ration to converge upon the Oregoti country are no longer l)urning questions in international relations, and yet these are not all settled, as witness the disputes over the British Columbia-Alaskan bound- ary. For more than half a century the overlapping territorial claims on the Pacific coast seemed fraught with gravest conse- quences. In their later complications they 'constituted the Oregon Ouestion. The political map of the Pacific slope is likely forever to commemorate the international rivalry in exploration. The key to the explanation of the peculiar shajie of Alaska and to the 36 Hi i KXl'I.OKATION NORTHWHSTWAKI). 3- Jiodjrc-pfMlcrc (It KcoK'raphical names on the Pacilic coast i'um\ Alaska to California, to take two special cases, is to be found in the history of the early explorations o,i the Nortwest coast. In a word, we may hope in an examination of this period of three hnndred years of exploration northwestward to have exem- plified under peculiarly favorable circumstances the process of the world i^rowth in geof^raphical knowledge; and fnrtheras five nations are viewed in their parallel activities making for exjiansion towards the North Pacific coast, which activity in each case sometimes rises to be the dominant national interest, their national char- acters receive striking,' illustration ;in thi^ period too we find some ele- ments essential to the understanding of later phases of Oregon's development; in it we have the opportunity of following the development of an important historical problem that lias a rare degree of unity and definiteness. The work of developing tlie world's kno\v> 'ge of the conti- nent of North America from Columbus' idea o ; as a string of Asiatic islands to the point where the Oregon comi'ry was brought fairly within the pale of civilization was a w / k, as T have said, of some three centuries. The view that Columbus held had been proposed by Kratosthenes in the third century B. C. It liad been adopted at intervals by geographers during the uitervening seven teen centuries. Tne main change that it had suflered liad been the prolongation of Asia over against Spain. In this form Columbus had received it from Toscanelli about 1474. The geographical conditions predicated in this belief precluded the possibility of the existence of a North Pacific coast. From that point of view the development of this coast involved a dead lift of it out of the interior of Asia. The region we call the Pacific Northwest v/as far back in the dominions of the C»rand Cham of China. But this belief of the Asiatic connection of the newly found lands of North America had not fairly begun to decline before another geograph- ical conception of North America aro.se that placed the Oregon region at the bottom of the sea. For the sake of clearness it will probably be })est in this sketch to regard the explorations northwestward as resulting first, in tearing the North American continent away from Asia; and second, in pushing the vSea of Verrazano liack into the Nortli i'acific and Arctic Oceans. There were thus two main delusions per- taining to the geography of North America; the earlier conceived 27 ■'^i'^Jt^^Ak' 4. SKMI-CKNTENNIAL HISTORY OF OREGON: of it as the eastern extension of Asia; the later regarded it as a narrow strip throughout in its northeasterly extension, much as it was found to be in Central America and southern Mexico. These vicvvs in their radical forms were necessarily in irreconcil- able conflict, but toned down they were made to coalesce by many geographers. "The cartographical history of the Pacific coast of North America," says Justin Winsor, "is one of shadowy and unstable surmise long continued. " The former, or as it may be termed, the Asiatic view lingered a full century after the decline had begun. A map was published in 1598 exhibiting it. Thomas Morton in 1636 showed that in New England it was not yet de- cided whether the continent of North America did not border upon the country of the Tartars. "Indeed, the last trace of the assumption," saj's Winsor, "was not blown away till Bering in 1728 passed from the Pacific to the Arctic Seas." That the sec- ond or isthmian view as to the dimensions of the continent was held with almost implicit faith during the first half of tne seven- teenth century we have much evidence. By the first charter of Virginia (1606) it was declared to extend from the 34th to the 45th parallel of latitude, and from the seashore one hundred miles inland. In a second charter, issued three years later, Virginia is described as extending from .sea to sea, that is, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific. "It is not Hkely," says Fiske, "that the king and his advisers understood the westward exten- sion of the grant, as here specified, to be materially diflferent from that mentioned in the first charter. The width of the continent lietween Chesapeake Bay and the valley of the St. Lawrence was supposed to be no greater than from one to two hundred miles. Henry Hudson in 1609 entered New York harbor in the hope of coming out upon the Pacific Ocean in a few days." It is to be noted that while the results of some three hun- dred j'ears of exploration northwestward were the outlining of a continent in its main features and true proportions, the impelling motive had reference to altogether different ends. It was mainly one prolonged search for a north- v>'cst passage to the Indies of spices, gems, silks and gold. Visions of the Seven Cities, of second Mexicos and Perns, with mines of precious metals and later with regions ri<-h in furs, spurred the explorers to increased a8 ; ■•! J KXI'LOKATK )N NORTH WKSTWARD. I it as a auch as Mexico, reconcil- lesce by f North unstable : termed, cline had Thomas it yet de- 3t border ice of the Bering in it the sec- inent was tne seven - charter of ^th to the k hundred ears later, It is, from ays Fiske, ard exteii- erent from ; continent kvrence was dred miles, le hope of three hun- tlinins of '^ iinpcUins? !i north- silks and d Mcxicos later with increased zenl. "A most pathetic and thrilling story," says Fiskc, "is that of the persistent search for the Northwest Passage, kept up for 330 years, and gradually pushed farther and farther up among Arctic ic'j-floes, until at length in iS54the passage was made from Bering Strait to Davis Strait by Sir Robert McClure." Thus three ideas were dominant with cartographers, with explorers, and with the European monarchs in the development of the geography of North America; the ideas of contiguity with Asia; of a distinct continent contracted to isthmian propor- tions in the region from the Chesapeake Ba}' to the St. Lawrence; of an open passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific somewhere in the north. All found varying representation on the maps. Now and then there would be a guess aj'-proximating reality. But it wqs the last idea only that served directly as the motive to exploration. Cohimbus on his fourth voyage (1502-3) made a laborious search for a passage in the region of Central America. So fondly was the hope of a strait in that quarter cherished, that Cortes indulged in the delusion of one at the base of Yucatan as late as 1522. Such a strait was represented on maps ten years longer. The Portuguese taking the Cape of Good Hope route penetra- ted to the Molucca or Spice Islands in 1 5 1 1 . Naturally the question arose whether they were not trespassing on vSpanish rights. The line of demarcation between the possessions of Spain and Portu- gal as laid down by Pope Alexander VI was extended by its antipodal round the earth. The means of determining longitude, however, were too crude for arriving at a clear and satisfactory decision of the disputed ownersliip of these islands. It was seen that the issue was to be determined by occu])ation. The matter was urgent. Spain must find a passage west to the Mo- luccas. Columbus and all since his day had failed to find a pas- sage thither by way of the Caribbean Sea. .Special efforts were turned to the soulli. Magellan's v/as the third expedition sent to the south on this mission. The .second expediv^^n under vSolis ( 1511S) had l)een misled by the broad estuary of the La Plata, and made a fruitless examination of it as an inter-oceanic pas.sage. All know the outcome of Magellan's wondrous voyage. He sacrificed liis own life but led the way around the world. The excessive length of the voyage from I'Uirope to Asia by this southwestern loute- rendered it impr.acticable. However, Spain immediately 29 6. SRMI-CRNTENNIAIv HISTORY OF ORPiGON: made an attempt to utilize it. The expedition ended in dismal failure. Search at the center and at the south had not discov ?red a practicable route from Europe west to Asia. It is then, "Ho! to the north," for this desideratum of the centuries. Sebastian Cabot had been right from the start in proposing a northwest passage to Cathay. That would make great circle sailing — the shortest route. Cortes was the first to prepare plans that seemed commensu- rate with the undertaking. In his fourth letter to Emperor Charles V. (1524) he outlines these: "I am continually on the watch and occupying myself with the thought, how can I best carry into execution and accomplish the desire I have to promote the service of your Majesty. I have already mentioned to your Excellency the places to which I have sent people, both by land and sea, by whom under the guidance of our Lord your Majesty has been well served. No- thing seems to remain but to explore the coast lying between the river Panuco and Florida, the latter being the country discovered by Adelantado Juan Ponce de Leon; and then the northern coast of Florida as far ■as Bacalaos; because it is considered certain that there is a strait on that coast that leads to the South Sea.* If this should be found, it appears to me that it will come out near the archipelago, which Magallanes by the order of your Highness has disco-ered, according to a chart which I have, showing its situation. In that case navigation from the Spice Islands to these dominions of your Majesty will be rendered favorable and short, so much so that the distance will be two thirds less than at present ; and there will be no risk ov danger to ships going or returning, because their course will always lie within the dominions of your Majesty, and whenever there is a necessity for repairs, they can seek a harbor at any point of the voyage in the territories of your Highness "The enterprise will cost me more than 10,000 pesos in gold; but if the strait is discovered, it will be of more signal advantage to your Majesty than anything I have yet achieved; and if that discovery is not made, it is possible that others will be, of rich *This is Balboa's name for the Pacific, perscded it. Manellan's name had not yet su- 30 I dismal )\ >red a "Ho! to 111 Cabot passage shortest nmensu- Emperor self with Domplish I have which I ider the d. No- veen the iscovered northern )nsidered he South vill come r of your I have, the Spice rendered il be two danger to Iways lie here is a mt of the s in gold; idvantage nd if that e, of rich I not yet su- EXPLORATION NORTHWESTWARD. j. and widelj spread lands tending to promote the interests of yonr Majesty, and greatly enlarging the number of realms and seignior- ies already subject to your royal crown. It will also be useful to know that such a strait does uot exist so that attention may l>e paid to devising means for securing the greatest possible benefit from the spice countries, and others in their neighborhood; an object for the accomplishment of which I offer my services to your Highness, should you be pleased to command them ; so that with- out the strait I shall cause your Majesty's affairs to be greatly advanced and at a diminished expense. But may it please our Lord to crown this enterprise with success by discovery of the strait! A consummation the most desirable, and in which I have the greatest confidence, since nothing can be denied to the good fortune of your Majesty, and on my part no efforts, attention, or zeal will be spared in the undertaking. "I also propose to get ready the ships I have had built on the South Sea, so that if it please our Lord, they may sail at the ex- piration of the month of July, in this year, 1524, on a voyage down the coast in quest of the same strait; since if it exists, it must be discovered by those on the South Sea, as well as others in the North Sea, for the former will run along the coast until they either find the strait, or reach the land discovered by Magal- lanes, and the latter will proceed to the north as I have stated, until they arrive at Bacalaos. Thus on one side or the other, I shall not fail to ascertain the truth. "I assure your Majesty, that according to the information I have of the lands situated along the upper coasts of the South Sea, it will be of great service to myself, and likewise to your Majesty, to send these ships in that direction; but being well aware of the great desire of your Majesty to know concerning the supposed strait, and of the great advantage the crown would de- rive from its discovery, I have laid aside all other schemes more obviously tending to promote my interests in order to pursue this object alone. May our Lord so guide me that his service may be advanced and the desires of your Majesty accomplished, while at the same time my own wishes of rendering good service are gratified." In this same year, 1524, Francis I., king of France, enters the lists as a competitor for possessions among the new discover- Hc sends Vcrrazano to find the northwest passage. Land ics. SICIMI-C KNNIAL HISTORY OV URlvCON: is first si<;htcd off the coast of North Carolina. Vcrra/atio then skirted the coast northward as far as latitude 50 deg,, and may have discovered the Hudson river and landed u]3on Rhode Island, and again farther up the coast. In this same year d' Ayllnn came from Hispaniola and tried the James river and Chesapeake bay for a oassage to the Pacific. Tht^ next year Gomez was sent out from Spain to find this passage in the north— the matter had become so urgent. He coasted from Labrador to Florida, taking notice of Cape Cod, Narragansett bay and the mouths of the Con- necticut, Hudson and Delaware rivers. In this way by these re- peated voyages in search of the strait was the geography of the Atlantic coast developed. It is to be noted, however, that when a Verrazano, a brother of the navigator, published a map in 1529 to represent the discov- eries of the voyage five years before, he makes Florida connect with what we nov.' call New England by an isthmus. The imag- inary sea washing the western shore of this isthmus was com- monly known as the Sea of Verrazano. It was this .sea thus or- iginated, that for many years by one line of geographers was made to engulf the Oregon country. It took the valiant services of a long l;ne of intrepid French explorers to push the sea b.ick across the continent, giving it proportions that admitted of the existence of Oregon. Cortes .seems to have desisted from his proposed expedition on the Atlantic dc, but set about vigorously to inaugurate the explorations on the north Pacific coast. Here he gave an impulse to northwest exploration by sea and land from Mexico as a base that developed the geography of our southwestern territory and coast from Texas to tne upper limits of California and laid the basis of Spanish occupation of those re- gions of which their successors, .ne Mexicans, were not to be (' = s- ]K)ssessed by a brancli of the ICnglish speakiiig peoples until tlie middle of the nineteenth century. Here was the hist great ex- pansion of Spain. From his headquarters at the c\[y of Mexico Cortes sent explorers to the Pacific coast to find ;i fit spot for a shipping jwhit. Thither he sent colonists and slup-wrights to cstahlisli a ton-n and build a fleet. The rebellion of a treacherous lieutenant in Honduras required his attention for a year. In 1527, however, at the urgent request of his emperor ho sent three vessels direct 32 w ^ ►N: rra/atio then g., and may Lhodc Island, ar d' Ayllnn Chesapeake niez was sent e matter had orida, taking IS of the Con- ,' by these re- jrapliy of the no, a brother lit the discov- )rida connect The imag- its was com- s sea thus or- ers was made /ices of a long ck across the :he existence ;d expedition auguratc the ire he gave a and land jraphy of our e upper limits '11 of those re- lict to be ('"s- ples until the last great ex- [) Cortes sent ^r a shipping to cstabH.sli a ■)us lieutenant 527, however, vessels direct KXI'LORATION NORTHWESTWARD. 9. across the Pacific to co-operate with two other fleets sent from Spain via the Magellan route to the Spice islands. Two of the ships sent out by Cortes were lost at sea, the third was captured by the Portuguese. In 1529 the Spanish claims to the islands were sold to Portugal and Cortes was free to prosecute his pro- posed explorations to the northwest. But at this stage of his last great project it was necessary for him to confront calumniators in Spain. On his return to the Pacific coast ports he found that the preparations he had made for the building of a new fleet had been interfered with by enemies who werejealous of the new conquests that he might make to the northwest. Ship-building was re- sumed at Tehuante]iec and Acapulco. The first two ships sent out in 1532 were lost. A military governor of the frontier prov- ence in the region opposite the point of the peninsula of Califor- nia had refused them succor. The next expedition in 1533 developed the western shore of the lower parts of the peninsula oi California; one vessel returned, its pilot having been killed by the natives; the other was seized by the same rival. A third expedition in May 1535 was led by Cortes in person. What parts of the lower portion of the California peninsula he coasted is known from his map preserved in the Spanish archives. He established a colony on the peninsula, but hearing that he was l^eing super.seded as viceroy returned to Mexico. Still not de- spairing of lietter success a fourth trial for glory was made in this direction. He despatched Francisco de Ulloa in 1539, having indications that the new viceroy, Mendoza, would try to antici- pate him. Ulloa proceeded up the gulf nearly to its head, and, satisfing himself that no practicable water passage could bring him to the ocean in that direction, turned south and following the easterly coast of the peninsula rounded its extremity and coasted its western shore to about the 2S" north latitude, without finding any cut off on that side. It had been Cortes' conviction that California was an island. Cortes' connection with discoveries on the Pacific end here. Others followed where lie had led. His captains caVlcd the gulf the Sea of Cortes but the name failed to abide. For a while it was generally called the Red Sea out of the fancied rescml)lance totlic Red sea of the old World. It is held that the name CaUfornia was given to the iieninsula by Cortes himself. 33 I'M! 10. ;-:i:mi-cj-;nti';>:n(al hibtorv iji- orkgon: The I'ollowing year Meiuloza sent a fleet under Heniaiidf D'Alarcon with Castillo as pilot to co-operate with the famous land expedition under Coronncio, The first went to the head of the gulf and with boats ascended the Colorado some distance. Of t)ie land expedition under Coronado more v .;i !>e said presently. Two years later, 1542,3 fleet under Cabnllo. a Portuguese in Spanish service, started up the coast. It sighted land in latitude 330 and coasted north to 44^^, if we take the ship's figures. They are supposed to have been one or two degrees too high. He probal)ly entered the San Diego harl)or. Cabrillo died on this voy- age when the expedition had not proceeded alx>ve 38", Ferrelo, his chief pilot, continued the explorations. Thus early had the Spaniards reached the southwesterii limits of the future Oregon Territory. The success of Cortes in his conquest of Mexico had filled the Spanish mind with visions of empires. The limits of Mexico and Central America on the west had been ascertained. The outlines of vSouth America were defined and its interior fairly well explor- ed. The north alone remained the region of mystery. The year tliat Cortes despatched a fleet from a western point of Mexico to the Spice islands (1527) Narvaez, a Spanish adventurer, latided at Apalachee bay in Florida in quest of an El Dorado. The expedi- tion of 600 men and eighty horses was soon reduced by hurricar.es and blundering incompetence to four sole sur^-ivors aimlessly wandering over the plains of Texa.s. Cabeza de V?.ca, the treasur- er of the expedition, was their leader. After nine years of drifting hither and thither they l)rought up at a Spanish outpost in Mexico. Exaggerated rumors of the Zuni Pueblos had already reach- ed the ears of Mendoza, the ,-uccessor to Cortes as viceroy of Mexico, and Cabeza do Vaca as;;umed an air of myster\' as to the countries he had .seen and the reports of cities he had heard. Ther>e reports of a land of Seven Cities matched well with a tradi- tion current among the vSpanish. Jm?-ginr.tion had first located these Seven Cities on the i.sland Antilia placed bv geographers in t^he mid-Atlantic, They were ea.sily shifted to the region north of Mexico. Cabeza de Vaca's tale wxs also told in Cuba and Spain. It in^anied the imaginations of men ihat had but rc- centlv tieen kindled anew bv the .storv of P;/c;rro in I'eru. It was but natural then that during the same years De Soto's expedition 34 ■ ■.■ F tf « I? '•'"■iiriwui. GON: ider Heniaiidf th the famous to the head of ne distance. Of said presently. Portuguese in land in latitude figures. They too high. He ied on this voy- ? 3S°, Ferrelo, early had the future Oregon CO had filled the ; of Mexico and . The outlines rly well explor- ;er\'. The \'car t of Mexico to iturer, landed at I. The expedi- id by hurricanes ivors aimlessly '.ca, the treasur- years of drifting lish outpost in . already reach- 5 as viceroy of yster\' as to the he had heard, •ell with a tradi- id first located hv geographers to the region ) told in Cn'Da that had !)ut re- in I'eru. It was oto's expedition explof^»t:^n xortiiwektw.mu). ! I. should be traveling back znd forth through the country bordering on the Gulf of Mexicfs.. 'nrhile Coronado's setting out from Mexi- co and sending out exr^Ting parties to the right and left sliould penetrate as far nortbea-rt i-r the prese'it limits of Kansas. These expedi^OTi> demt-n-trated the wide expanse of the con- tinent up to the for.r-.;. : .rallel. But hardly more of geograph- ical knowledge tharj :'-:- are fact was handed down from them. The Missippi had Xo '-r- r-:-il, while at the middle of the i^th century there wasint3cl». ff the geography of North America still to be developed, England, France, Rus.sia and later the United States had to be relied cpOTi to dispel the darkness and mystry from the northern and northwestern portions of the continent. The English pe- I'^f^vre. In 1553, however, Sebastian Cabot was recalled frrim Spa:rj iroi a joint stock company later kiiown as the Muscovy C on pa ^y was formed "for the Di.scoverie of Re- gions, Island, and Jlscts rinknown." Books too began 10 appear on the dicoveries in Arir^rt^i. In 1562 John Hawkins condnctinl his first great slave-trHd5wii«j expedition between the coast ofOuiiK>a and the West Indies. 3mt it sva.s in connection witli a nobler c:\- terprise that an Engl3isl5r<&s.*el was first to siglit the Oregon shores. vSjvun in ihe midrj-t^ss of her bigotry and pride had undertaken to tlirottlo rohtical aiv^ -^elisrion- liberty iti Europe. England and tlie Netherlands alon? badt teer defiance. Spain used the iull powL-r 35 1 1 h i 2 12. SKMI-OKNTKNNIAL HI.STORY OK OKlvCON I of the church hut ICngland was tiot overawed. "On a fresh May moniing in 1570," says Fiske, "the Papal Bull 'declaring Elizahelli deposed and her subjects absolved from their allegiance was fouiul nailed against the Bishop of London's door,' and when the rash young gentleman who had ])ut it there was discovered he was taken back to that door step and quartered alive. Two years later came the Paris Matins on the day of St. Bartholomew, atid the Knglish ambassador openly gave shelter to Huguenots in his house." ICngland's hero in the on-coming struggle stands second only to Nelson, her greatest seaman. Drake had sworn the oath of a Haiuiibal since that day in 1567 when in command of a ship under Hawkins in the harbor of Vera Cruz in Mexico he had been treacherously pounced npon by a vSpanish fleet. The idea was conceived that England's proper policy, as she was a nation of only about five millions of people against the greatest power of Europe since Rome under Constantine, would be to take or de- stroy the vSpanish sinews of war, then being received from the mines of Mexico and Peru. Philip's fleet, however large, must leave these treasures exposed at some point before they reached Spain. "The shores of America and the open sea," says Fiske, were the proper field of war for England." This idea Drake jnit into practice. In the fall of 1778 in command of the Golden Hind, that was from incursions into the harbors of Peru and Mexi- co laden with gold, silver and jewels, Drake appearrd off the coast of Californa. He pa.ssed up the coast to probably 1.3° and returned to beach and repair his .ship near San Francisco bay. Thence he passed directly across the Pacific to the Malucca islands and home by way of Cape of Good Hope, eflfecting the second circumnavigation of the earth. Drake's voyage led to several noteworthy geographical re- sults: New Albion became the name of the region whose shores he had visited; the coastline of upper California took a more northerly trend; geographers given to representing all unknown portions of the earth's surface as sea were under the necessity of bulking the continent to the northwest. Drake had come to these .shores for the strait that should let him through the continent. His failure to find it caused English navigators 'and a half in the colonization of the Atlantic slope from M.ai!ie to Florida. There a new civilization and the germs of a new empire were preparing. After two cen- turies its turn will come and with a Captain Gray, a Lewis and Clark will do its part toward the development of the geography of the continent. So from the opening of the seventeenth century it is the French alone who for a century and a half (barring the Russian operations under Bering) bore the role of explorers in America. When Champlain and his successors in turn used the St. Tvawrctice as a waterway leading to the interior of the continent each cherished the hope that he would open a route to China. When in 161 5 Champlain reached the eastern shores of Lake Huron he thought that the great western Sea of Cathay lay almost with- in his ken. He proposed to his King to find a way to China through the St. Lawrence. At *^his period it was generally sup- posed that the vSt. Lawrence had its source near the head of the gulf of California. In 1634 Champlain, now grown old and China not yet reach- ed, despatched Nicolct to the west to solve the raj'stery. Having penetrated to the west of Lake Michigan Nicolet heard that the "great water" was only three days oflf. He interpreted the "great water" as being an expansive sea, but for some reason did not press on to behold it. Again in 1670 Fathers Allouez and Mar- quette while out near the headwaters of lakes Michigan and vSu- perior heard the Indians' stories about the "great water" and in- terpreted them as as referring to a river. The conception of this mighty river takes hold of the imagination of La Salic and to him it becomes a vision of a great waterway leading to the gulf of Cali- 38 -5 1 tlic coniplc- lloration of the [•etchiiig from extension to hiia had been pntinent, the in bay basin, Is were all ini- only now and sh energy was iiization of the ew civili/.ation After two cen- a Lewis and the geography Miteenth centnry ilf (barring the of explorers in :n used the vSt. •)f the continetit route to China, es of Lake Huron lay almost with- a way to China IS generally sup- the head of the ina not yet reach- tnystery. Having heard that the rpreted the "great ; reason did not Vllouez and Mar- /lichigan and f^u- it water" and in- ^onception of this a Salle and to him tothcgulf of Cali- F.XPLORATION NORTHWllSTWARl ). »«■ fornia and the French would in it have a channel to the South Sea and access to a route to China quite as convenient as the vSpanish route from Acapulco. Treachery and mishaps before which a spirit of less h.eroic fortitude than La vSalle's would have quailed deprived him of the gratification of the rediscovery of the Mississippi. When in ifi;^ Marquette and Joliet descended it to the mouth of the Arkansas and virtually proved that its outlet was into the gulf of Mexico geographical ideas were corrected and extended, litit the hopes of the iron-hearted cavalier were dashed to the ground. He sent Father Hennepin tf the century progress from the with the discoveries made in 000 pound rewards oflfered, first ling a passage from the Hudson 11' s Bay Company sent Samuel ver to the Arctic ocean in 1770. auspices of the now vigorous followed to the sea the river that !r he started up the Peace river, f the Frazer river, he followed it truck through the wilderness to hite man to make the westward >assage was made twelve years cpeditinn. The continent was e south of the route taken by ;raced from one of its sources to pedition as stated in President Captain Lewis were: "To ex- L principal streams of it, as by ith the waters of the Pacific gan, [sic] Colorado, or any other ul practicable water communica- ? pnri)oscs of commerce." In EX I'l.OR ATTON NdRTI IWI-l.^TWA R 1 ). 19. conceiving and plainiing this project and supporting it to success- ful achievement, Thomas Jeflerson showed truly prophetic leader- ship, having in view the highest destinies of the American people. It pointed out the way to a host of fur traders and pioneers. Limi- tations of space forbid ray entering upon a narrative of this expedi- tion. Suffice it to say the enterprise in its conception and execution was a worthy Jjf/a/f to the three centuries of exploration north- westward. The map of Norh America in its grand features was now complete. We have before us now the historic processions of explorers con- verging in their routes upon this North Pacific coast. The valiant Cortes, representative of Spanish power and ambition in its prime, first sternly set his face northwestward. The vSpanish procession followed up the coast and across the parched region of the Rio (■rande and Colorado. But the sources of vSpanish energy become atrophied. Her outlying dominions are held with a nerveless grasp. Still her navigators win for her priority in the discovery of the whole coast region. She makes pretentions to exclusive posses- sion but recedes upon the first challenge of it by luigland. We caiuiot but admire the movement of the French up the vSt. Law- rence, and the Great Lakes even to the sources of the Missis- sippi, Missouri, and Saskatchewan. Champlain, LavSalle, and Ver- cndrye seem grandly competent in leadership. But the civiliza- tion, the institutions under them and behind them in France can- not hold their own against a sturdier rival, and French expansion to the northwest stops and its results are reaped l)y other nationalities. Russia makes a long march across the wa^Lcs of Siberia and under Bering prepares to share in American possessif)ns. With Drake and Cavendish Ivngland sweeps "around the Horn" into the North Pacific to begin the Anglo-vSaxon onslaught upon Spain, the final blow of wiiich was delivered at vSantiago. Two centuries later the FInglish movement northwestward comes on in two branches, one by sea headed l)y Captain Cook, one by land under the auspices of the Hudson's Bay and the Northwest fur companies. \'ancouver and Mackenzie reach tlie goal in the same effective Kngiish way. During the hiatus of nearly two centuries of iCnglish exploring ictivity luiglish energy was lieing directed into the new l)ranoh of the national stock on the Atlantic coast. This new l)ranch of linglish speaking people, having set up for lliemselves, begin to 30. SEMI-CKNTENNIAI. HISTORY OF OREGON. i realize at the opening of the nineteenth century that they have a larger stake in this westward movement than any other nation. In the valley ofthe Columbia Anglo-Saxons of the old and new branch- es meet. The English branch has allied with it the strength of the native races, but it has also the old mediaeval organization and aims. These were absorbed partly from the French on the way across the continent and partly from the elements of paternalism in the charter of the Hudson's Bay Company. The American home- building individualism and democracy against which the English feudalism was pitted was on its own ground in the Columbia wilder- ness. It had been developed as a new civilization in wilderness winning. Unless other factors represented at the centers of the national strength of each nation were brought into the contest the outcome was inevitable. Youth and age of the same race con- fronted each other. Or rather a higher social organization had met to overcome a lower. In the larger apportionment of the continent as a whole among the European nations who hud aided in disclosing it, the outcome turned on the same principles. Degree of utilization determined destiny. The basis of national strength is secured through the utilization of the energies of the environment. The people that make the highest and largest use of their means will always win. American individualism was wonderfully adapted to the work of penetrating and subduing the wilderness. But a new work is now at hand. Requisites for highest welfare ever new are demanded. F. G. YOUNG. I c':\ 44 they have a ler nation. In new branch- strength of mization and h on the way f paternaUsm lerican home- a the English ambia wilder- in wilderness centers of the he contest the ame race con- organization I whole among ;, the outcome on determined i through the he people that II always win. to the work of 2W work is now e demanded. YOUNG. • • • ■ fv^ • '■ ■■ ■■ ■• b -^ ^ *^ V ^\ vAy^>^- ' ' , v^-^ EXPLORATION COHTlhEt^T v^ nATlONALlTIES., Ob».tV\fc\ ^TCVttUdwA.' •••• nriii:'..^ ! m ! I I HAJA THE. ACTUAL AMERICA IN RELATION TO dF.hAin'5 CJEOGRAPHY. ^^^, Ai,ot<> 6« *. Ri)Y5<;n, 1^04. V <:ARTA riARIMA, Working out of the irlea that the North-American latuls wore the eastern extension of As tli| V ^ ff<> «u ^=^- 5-. ♦Vl «■" HARRIS r,AP, nos. MJTCH MAP, ii^--5. First explorations on the Northern Pacific coast; and evidence of the later reifrn of unfounded siiriiiiso " v^. 1.1. 11.11 surmise. :tension of Asia. : -1 M ; j^ ' )! A 1^ r/ ^aT, «7£5- ( <• '^ x^%\&tot LiiLti hap; Maps showing the domination of the idea that the lands discovered ■I continuous coast-line had been traced that they were a strip of tcrntorj explorations continued, that they constituted a continent with numeroi the northwest. ;a that the lands discovered in the north were a string of islands; after they were a strip of territory with an isthmus in latitude 35"-4o°;and,as ;d a continent with numerous seas and easy inter-oceanic passages in t n»v THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY REGIME IN THE OREGON COUNTRY. Kngland has always profited by her dauntless trading cap- tains. Around the world their stakes were set for future occupa- tion. Oglethorpe, Baltimore, Raleigh, Peim, New England grants, gave her colonies on the Atlantic. Her Hudson's Bay and North- west companies captured British America Cook and his follow- ers gave her Australasia. The East India Company absorbed that famed old India, the coveted dream of princes for a thousand years. Out of her ver\' misfortunes rose greatest opportunities. When her little island realm was too small, she sent her Sinbads out. When fire and plague devastated London and impoverished her nobles, she sent them over-seas to bitid the Northland with her iron chain. Even her criminals colonized Botany Bay. British Guiana, British Honduras, British Borneo, are synonymous with commercial venture. British Eg^'p* dominates the Soudan; British locomotives scream where Stanley toiled on foot; British homes have superseded kraals of Hottentots. A British highway from Cape Town to Alexandria is the all-but-acccmplishcd dream 5" '7- si:mi-ci;nti;nnial history of ori;(;ox: f)f I'lnpire-carviiiK Cecil Rhodes. Her syndicates arc tmw in China. That Ore^m is not today a Hritisli colony is due to the fact that An^;lo-Saxon met Anglo-vSaxon. America, too, has sent her tradinj; captains out. To a casual observer the Hudson's liay Company rcRtme in the Ore^nn country seems like a tar, heroic lime, an aj;e of myth and table, loni? l)elbre Americans had rij,'ht or title to this norhwest coast. The facts are far otherwise. vScarcely was Corn- wallis home Irom Yorktown l^fore our ship.s were on these shores. Sea captains of our Revolution led the way, they pre-empted the Cr)lumbia, and tax-free t(Kik home tea from Cliina. The story of McI,(mRhlin, charming as it may be, is not the story of ()re,u;on, but an incident in a chain of stories. For more than a (juarter of a century before McI.ouKhlin's British flotilla came ilown to Astoria, our Boston traders had l)een entering the gates of Oregon, had named her mightiest river, had fixed their personality so upon the native tribes that all Americans were "Bos- tons," from vSitka vSouiul to San Francisco, It was not the Hud- son's Bay Company, not even the Northwest Company, but Lewis and Clark, that first scaled the Rockies and traversed the wilds of biaho. Not Canadian voyageurs, Imt the private secretary of an American President and officers of the United States Army, that first ran the gauntlet of the swirling Dalles, and measured the Columbia to the sea. Then New York stepped in witli Astor to forge another link in our chain of title to "the Oregon country." Not McLoughlin, but Astor, an American citizen, built the first forts in Oregon and summoned to his emporium fur brigades from the llmpciua to the l-'razer. The land had lieen discovered, had been explored, had been commercially traversed by Ameri- cans from Boston, New York, Virginia, before a single British trader undertook to join this Oregon country to the grant at Hudson's Bay. The infant republic of North Amcricn YiA a mighty territory to cover with her handful of people, aw;>v and away and away it stretched, no man saw the bounds ther-'of. All the world turned in to help her; the industrial enterprise of Europe landed on our eastern shores and rolled in mighty tidewaves westward; so busy were we levelling forests and building farms east of the Mississippi that for a moment Oregon was left. 'IMial was ICngland's op- portunity. 51 iirnsoN'S ii.w coMi'ANv ki-ciMi;. js. That Charles II granted a nionopoly of furs (u\ IIiulsoii's Hay lo his "lK.-l()ve(l cousin, I'riiuv Ru])crt," has been crilicised. I'li- justly. Hy just such strokes as this, ICnghitul dutch(.';ciitlemen trading? into Hud- son's Hay," were an impecunious lot; to retrieve their broken for- tunes they looked beyond the sea, to that sub-arctic wilderness where no man held possession, where nature beckoned with her riches. ThcvSpaniard followed the luxurious south, the french- man took the St. Lawrence, the KuKlishman built his fort amid the rigors of Hudson's Hay, He reached out west and north. lMi<}[lish arms took Canada. Hudson's Hay expanded until it took in half of North America. A Canadian-Hritish rivid, born at Montreal, began to dispute Hudson's Hay monopoly of ill the earth, it claimed the Arctic, the Pacific. They met ajul «|uar- relcd. A year and a day from Waterloo they fought on the plains of Manitoba. Hritons spilt Hritish bloml at Winnipeg. Parlia- ment called a halt among these contentious children, "Hritons may fight Frenchmen, Indians, Americans, anybody but each other. Come, compromise, raarr. ," said motherly old Kngland, "marry, and I will gi%'e you a wedding present." So the hoary old Hudson's Hay Company proposed to the blooming young Northwest Company. It was plainly a wedding of capital and lalxir. The Northwest Company had nothing but her hands, her courage and her splendid exploration. Hehind the Hudson's Hay were the money-bags of of nobles and the Bank of Kngland. Representatives of each went to IvOndon to fix up the wedding dowry. One of these representa- tives was the most far-.seeiug of all the Northwesters, Dr. John McLoughlin, then in charge at Fort William, the emporium of the Northwest Company on Lake vSuperior. John McLoughlin stood out for better terms at that London meeting. Some of them never forgot that insubordinate spirit, it reminded them of the rebels of the American Revolution. Too long had McLoughlin breathed the free air of the St. Lawrence, too lotig had he ruled the wilds, to submit tamely to effacement in the rival body. He spoke as a Northwester for Northwesters; he did not win his point, but he never signed his name to the ultimate terms of agreement. Long ago, as a trading captain after England's own heart. Dr. McLoughlin had looked on Oregon. He saw a new field, a great field, a covetefl stronghold on the Pacific, and hither they sent McLoughlin. His was an empire in itself, from Alaska to Cah- 53 29. SKMI-CKNTKNNIAL HISTORY OF ORKGON. foniia, from the Rocky mountains to the ocean. The United States was not asleep, she was not even dreaming, but every nerve was bent on building up the Kast. In due time Oregon received attention. For the present, British energy tamed our red men, trapped our wild animals, and took commission in their skins. Perhaps, ordained of God, it paved the way for us. Dr. John McLoughlin and the Hudson's Bay Company reached Oregon together, in 1824. Between time and fire, old Fort Astoria, our first American structure, was in decay. And a British flag could not fly above its ramparts, it was ours. Mc- Loughlin missed his late imperial fastness in the north. He would be monarch in his fort. Go to Irving 's "Astoria" for a description of the Northwest traders en route to Fort William: The partners from Montreal "ascended the rivers in great state, like sovereigns making a progress; or rather like Highland chief- tains navigating their subject lakes. They were wrapped in rich furs, their huge canoes freighted with every convenience and luxury, and matuied by Canadian voyageurs, as obedient as High- land clansmen. They carried with them cooks and bakers, to- gether with delicacies of every kind, and abundance of choice wines for the banquets which attended this great convocation. Happy were they, too, if they could meet with some distinguishcuried in his master's grave; no voyageur might have a dozen v/ives, no trader might abuse the confidence of trusting tribes. "Keeji your promises," said McLoughlin. "Build up coiifide.ice." Where of old the boatmen sped with lighted match above a load- ed camion, peace dwelt. Not even would he permit a tribe to rob a rival trader. How quick he sent avengers down to rmii- qua when Jedediah Smith had met mishap. The White -Headed Ragle spoke in tones of thunder, "No Indian can rob a white iiian with impunity." When a Hudson's Bay ship was wrecked at the mouth of the Columbia and Clatsops hid the goods, the vengeance of the white-headed chief was swift and terrible. When a Yankee captain ran aground in the Willamette, Mc- 54 31. vSEMI-CRNTKNNIAL HIvSTORV OF ORKGON: I^oughlin's messengers, like guardian angels, kept the savages at: bay and helped the stranger off. When missionaries came, he met them, picked out locations, gave them every encouragement. That the Frenchman amalgamates with inferior tribes is the history of North America; he loses his identity, loses his civihza- tion, finally loses empire. The Spaniard comes like a despot, fastens upon the toil of inferior races, his civilization decays, he, too, loses empire. The Anglo-Saxon, with a moral onsvveep, molds anew. With him, tribes must rise or perish. He never loses himself. Incapables disappear or blend in the leaven of his empire. The way was clear for such an empire here, purely Knghsh. But America was too quick. When over the mountains long trains of immigrants began to roll, the first faint waves of deluge, John McLoughlin was, be- fore all things else, an Anglo-Saxo... The Indians were satisfied with the Hudson's Bay Company, it did not take their lands. But these Americans wanted, not furs but farms; not forts but homes; not isolated trading houses, but a whole land full of factories, schools, cities. Indian wrath grew with each succeed- ing wagon that rolled over the Rockies, bearing women and little children into Oregon. The tomahawk was ready. But as ever with this royal race, (when not fighting us) McLoughlin forgot gain, forgot furs and forts and dividends, he only remembered that humanity was here in danger. Far up the Columbia he sent his batteaux to feed the hungry immigrants. And when, from a stormy voyage, they were landed at Vancouver, he it was tliat met them on the shore, that took their hands in welcome, that builded bonfires all along the sands to warm and d"- the multi- tude. All night long he stood out there, his white locks wet with rain, guarding, guarding personally that no damage or dan- ger might ensue to these strangers in his realm. And so from year to year. But who was McLoughlin? A British fur-trader. And these 'At-re American immigrants tliat meant to take the country. The London directorate of the Hudson's Bay Company made investiga- tion. "Our representative in Oregon is (encouraging American immigration," they said. "I know it, gentlemen, I know it, but I cannot see the people suffer," was McLoughlin's answer. The American Congress heard of him. "Dr. McLoughlin is a British fur-trader and a menace to our settlers," was the verdict. So arf Calml quietl drove Lougl When Fort ^ decam two C( in, a\M name boon t .SS HI'DSON'S BAY COMPANY RKGIMK. 32. So around the devoted doctor's head the criticising arrows flew Calmly oti his way he sent his ship loads of furs to London, quietly he fed the hungry settler, until conflicting interests drove him from his post at Fort Vancouver. The story of Mc- Loughlin is the story of the Hudson's Bay Company in Oregon. When he resigneU and moved to Oregon City, decay set in at Fort Vancouver. Settlers came fast ajid faster, the fur hunters decamped for California gold fields. A joint commission of the two countries appraised the property, the United States bought it in, a:'.d the shadow of England passed from Oregon. liut the name and memory of Dr. John McLoughlin remain, a beneficent boon to all coming time. KVA KMKRV DYE. 56 PROSPECTUS OF THE SEMI-CENTENNIAL HISTORY OF OREGON. Noiv Ready. 1. Mile Posts in Development of Oregon; Characteristics as an American Commonwealth, by Horace S. Lyman, A. M,, with supplement: A World Movement and a National Move ment that had Important Relations to the making of Oregon, by Prof. F. G. Young. 2. Exploration Northwestward, Prof. F. G. Young. 3. The Hudson's Bay Company Regime in the Oregon Country, by Eva Embry Dye, A. M. In PrepaiaiiGii. 4. Occupation of the Oregon Country by American Trad- ers, Missionaries and Pioneers, by Horace S. Lyman, A. M. 5. The Immigrations to Oregon, by George H. Himes, Secretary of Oregon Pioneer Association. 6. The Process of Selection in Oregon Pioneer Settle- ment, by Prof. Thomas Condon. 7. The Oregon Question, by Principal Joseph R. Wilson. 8. The History of Civil Government in Oregon, by Prof. James R. Robertson. 9. Men, Women and Times among the Oregon Pioneers, by Velina p. Molson. 10. Political History of Oregon from 1853 to the close of the Civil War, by Hon. George H. Williams. 11. Political History of Oregon from 1865 to 1876, by Hon. Wm. D. Fenton. 12. Political History of Oregon from 1876 to the present day, by Judge M. C. George. 13. The Development of Agriculture and Horticulture in Oregon, by Hon. John Minto. 14. The Industrial, Commercial and Financial History of Oregon, by Prof. F. G. Young. 15. History of Printing and the Press in Oregon, by George H. Himrs, Secretary of Oregon Pioneer Association. Double numbers and probably triple numbers will be pub- lished as monthly installments.