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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 f UN jgNREGISTERED according to the Act of the ProvbcUl oTTh ';!^"^f^^' 5^ JOHN HENRY WILTON, at the Office of the Registrar of the Province of Canada, in ihe year one housand eight hundred and forty-eight. B, i 1 SCENES IW A SOLDIER'S LIFE: BKiire A CONNECTED NARRATIVE OF THE PRINCIPAL MILITARY EVENTS SCINDE, BEELOOCHISTAN, AND AFFGHANISTAN, During 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842, and 1843, UNDER GENERALS LORD KEANE, BROOKS, SIR R. SALE, WILI'SIIIRB, POLLOCK, NOTT, ENGLAND, M'CASKILL, AIJD SIR 0, NAPIER. BY J. H. WILTON, AtrraoB of "ethaldi," "the ootoast," "the desbktkrs,*' etc. etc. "Still question'd me tlio story of my life, From year to year ; the battles, sieges, fortunes. That 1 liave pass'd. •1 ran it through, even from my boyish days. To the very moment that he bade nie tell it ; Wherein 1 spoke of most disastrous chances ; Of moving accidents, by flood, and field ; Of hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent deadly breach ; Of my being taken by the insolent too. And sold to slavery ; of my redemption thence, And portance in my travels' history ; Wherein of antrea vast, and deserts idle. Rough quarries, rocks and hills whose heads touch heaven, It was my hint to speak, such was the process." Shakgpere't Othello. » « » .■ « » , * . • * V *t ' » *« • k • i • • » » * « • > ■ R. JC^l} qv CHALMERS; t^/fTDON, LO^C-MAK AIID COMPANY; ••. ' *»NfeJr VoRK\ B1JRPOB16 ANI> eOMP/iNY. 1848;^ KOJrTHBUt : PrJnfd bj LoTMU. «d Qmo,, 6t. Nleholw SfcTMt. J ■^ . *> '> THESE SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE AMI MOST KBSPtCTFDLLT INSCRIBED TO COLONEL A. QUQY, M . P. P. lATB adjota:»t oksterai. op MILinA, AS A TOKEN OP THE ESTEEM ENTEBTAINBD FOB HIM AS A losal ^vih\ett, ^Itii?r» <^tate$(matt« ani) i^Unh, BT BIS MOST OBSOICirr AND BVHBUC SBR7A1IT, THE AUTHOK. S6l5a ■*"> I LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Alexander, Sir Jas. Edward A. D. C. to Com.,-in-Chief,. Adams, Major. 28th Regiment, Adamson, Captain ,.2l8t N. B. Fusiliers, Anstay, Lieutenant 20th Regiment, Anderson, Dr Rifle Brigade, Artrick, Q. M. S Rifle Brigade, Adamson, Rev. W. Agar Montreal, Aldridge, Thomas 23rd Fusiliers,... ."..".*.'.*.".* .".' Adamson, J. A Montreal Allen, H., Sergeant. 23rd Fusiliers,...*.*!!.'!!.'.'!!!!.""] Anderson, J. F St. Lawrence Main Street,.... Agassiz, Lieutenant 23rd Fusiliers Abbott, Rev. J Montreal, Ajrres, S. II.. Bank of B. N. A., Q*ue*bw,!!!! Aitchinson, J Standridge & Co., Alloway, R. M The Derries, Ireland Andrews, Captain 28th Regiment Andrews, Mr. Water Street, Manchesier,.... Anderson, Lieutenant, 56th Regiment, Anderson, J Manchester, !!!!!!!!!! Alms, Captain 7oth Regiment !..! Bainbridge, Colonel P. D. Q. M. Genl.. Dublin Blennerhassot, Captain 71st Regiment, H. L. L Bell, Lieutenant 23rd Fusiliers Black, Hon. Judge Vice Admlty. Court, Quebec,.! Barclay, Captain 56th Regiment, . Bainbridge, Mrs. R R. & C. Chalmers ' Bowers, D. A. C. Gen St. Johns Browne, Ensign, 71st Regiment, II. L. I !!' Belden, J Montreal Academy, Blackburn, J. Royal Engineer Department^. Baltour, Lieutenant, Rifle Brigade Broom, Templeton, Notre Dame Street!!!.!!!!!!"* Beer, J., Corporal 23rd Fusiliers Bowers, J., Corporal, 23rd Fusiliers, !.!.."!" Birks, R. 5*^°» J Dorchester Street, Boys, Armourer Sergeant, 23rd Fusiliers, 6 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. |ur; "^^^^^ 23.d FuslHe. Jel'vear.L. 1 23rd Fusiliers. > Burn, Major. •M.Joseph Street,... J grazior, S. Wal Artillery. . J Babington, Mr......' Compain Street,... I Beandage, L.. Commissurittt, ' Betbune, S..., "— • ' Birch, Mr... Advocate,... * S^"^^' J '.'.'.'.*.".'. Provincial S^reUr^sBLnt''' ] Broom, Frs Quebec,.... '''"v » -Uept.,.. j Bali. Shirley'.* ^'*y Bank,.'.' * Banks, G. Dublin,.. I Barnes. WZ:;:;:;;;^ j? ,T«'-k I'iace, London f Barnes, Color Sergeani li'^ ?J^«^t. Liverp^T; Boautflower. Rev.I! i^"^ Koffiment.... i Beachcroft, W ' ^nry, Lancashire,. I ^cket, Mrs. J ^ravesend,... * 5«''\n. cj ■;:;;;;; S'T^^'^'^^«nche'ster J Bowker.T R Market Street Mnnl ' Street. Salfoni; 2 Brooks, S^m.:.' " ?-ton. up^n IrwS Cottl'"^ ? Brode,J. p. Manchester, ""^^^ ^^'tage,.. I Buckley, Edmund.'M.* p ^ejvcastle under Lyme o Bickert'on, jju^;."?.."^' '^''^^f ^V AfanThesfer, . Bames, H...... ... "atManuft ' «"""'«' " p"" ^^a"u:acturer, London i ^f'N. •; ^^^^^^^^t^I-ane, London Byles, Captain I^Jymouth ° ' Bujteel, £ ;; ..-Seth Regiment',.*; J ^a;^:; ::::::.:::•:;:::} Belle vue. l^^^^ci;;^ I Beautflo;er. i:: Jer Captain Lawtf SST' ' Beautflower J."^--; ^l^'/ancasWre.!."'. '^^'' ] I^SiifT'"''— ^^^^ ^^-h^sie;:::;:;;;: } ^'\^- .v.'.*.';.'.': ^"^'•'"ans.Man'c'h'e's'ter"" Chamberlain. Sir TJ H Montreal,... "''"er,.... Campbell. M^jor.AD c''"^'-^^':^ fusiliers';..*;: Croker, Captain...^:; *° *5^ Governor Gene'mi Coston,Lie^utenantc'o'i;;nei '^'^ ^'S'"^-^t,JZ, t''' t^otton. Lieutenant S «« , . Crofts, Lieutenant, ..: ffj Regiment J Cruikshank. D. A. C. Geni l^'^ Fusileers, » Chalmers, R ^' "eni Kingston,. ' cuii;rnghame;*w;A;"M:; ^^^"^r^'-'^-z:::.: ; ^'«t i^g»meut, H. L. I , 1 I 1 2 1 1 I U8T OF BUB8CRIBERB. 1 ! at*?, I I I I 1 I ''a Dept,'..* I 1 I 'on .*.'.' 1 oJ, I 1 I 1 [' 1 Salford, 2 'ottage,.. 1 2 e 2 >don 1 'D 1 1 I •in Cox, 1 Jment,. i 5th Be, 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 •••«•• 1 ••••• 1 Cary, Lieutenant, 77th Regiment. i Garden, Lieutenant 77th Kegiment, 1 Connoliy, J. N. Montreal, ' 1 Connor, Serjeant 77th Regiment Z'" i Cordial, J.^ : ^»ff'« ^'aM Rifle Brigade,... I Crawford, Captain Rifle Brigade I Colman, J Dundas, C. W •••••••• ^ n'^'u-^-r". 23rd Fusiliers, .*.*.' i Campbell, R., junior Montreal, i Crookshank. A Commissariat Staff, Kin«ton; 1 Gary, T. A Montreal, 1 Chester, Captain 23rd Fusiliers i ^l"*f • *^V; 23 St. Nicholas Tolentine St.i 1 Clarke, Mr St. Johns, i Campbell. A. D Montreal, 1 S''f«^' V ""^ ^^' Townsend's, '."1 Collins, J. City & District Saving's Bank, 1 Coote. W. St. Johns, 1 Grossman, C. E Scott, Shaw & Co., l Carter. George Advocate, Montreal, I Cosgrave, R 23rd Fusiliers l C apham, J. H. Quebec 1 C apham, J. Greaves Quebec, * 1 Clark, R. B Quebec, "."' I Carrole, N. G Quebec, ',' 1 Clarke, T.M. Quebec; :::;;:::. 1 Coles, R Quebec 1 Cameron, Lieutenant 26th Regiment l Chetewood, E. J. Dublin 1 LjiarKe, J.-..-.... Solicitor, Manchester, i Clayton, E.F Dublin 1 Cormuck, H Deansgate, Manchester, '. I Cotton, Lieutenant Colonel S 28th Regiment, l Conran, Captain 56th Regiment, '.' l Cox, Captain 56th Regiment 2 ^'^o«»Pio°'P- Bury, Lancashire, 1 Coward, W Bury Bank, Lancashire ; Campbell, Dr 56th Regiment 1 Campbell, Lieutenant 60th Rifles \ Creed, R.. ggc. London & Birm. Railway^ 3 rS!^n^^* e ^^^^ Master, 22nd Regiment, I Cha inor. Sergeant, 17th Regiment 7. ; Chalhnor, Levi. Stanley Street, Manchester,... 1 Dyneley, Colonel, C. B. R. A...CornwaU Terrace, Montreal... 1 Dyde, Colonel J Montreal ... 1 Dilke, Lieutenant W. W. E., 77th Regiment '. !. i ijickens. Lieutenant. 23rd Fusiliers 1 i^areU, Lieutenant Royal Navy, 1 LIST 0*' 8UBSCWBER8. pelHoste, Malor J^»vid«on, Major ^- Q- M. OonornI Rom. Sa?!{S:;:; •'''-•''^'Zl^sr ^•^^•' ' 5»vie», J 20 AfftinSfreet. ' gawson, B 23rd Fusiliers, ^ Jow, Andrewr...'. ^"^ro I^atneStrm ^ 5? Wolden. T.. «» ^t. Josoph Street ' J«rbishire, P. 23rd Fusiliers ^ I>erbishire,J.. Montreal,.. ' ^ I>avies, D.. Montreal, * JaJIas, Rev.'.T.'. 23rd FusiliVri ' ^ans, J. Wanchestor, ' proper, Captain.*.;.' lY^^P!" StreorManciiG8t«r '"'' ! }>udIey.Dr. K .' ^- A. General, D?S'-- »tIoundet Street, A Hos, Jre^; SerjeantV;.;;;; 28thRefffmont?'.'.'.'.' ' 5«minuck, J. • Newcastle under LymeV under Ljrne,.' J S«Jan.'cc;i^rseH;a;v m^.nm:;:!:^'^''^''^^:^! pore, John .^"""^ 22nd Ke^imen * > T? ^.■~--' .' Jfr'^'^stlo under L/me ^arell. Captain :;::;;: ST..?.^'-«^^ Man^ch"; 2 1 o I 1 ^ewhurst, J... 60rh Kiflcs.., 1 |van«, T., Major Gon,r^i-Vr;vI^;fl^,Bn^^^^^^^ %erton Majo'r. " . •'^' ^^- 'I'f, ^^"\Regiraent. Momr'ealoo Evans, Lieutenant... ^/^'' Regiment ''"'^«a^'20 Ivan"; VT"^«'^^«''^nel.'^\*''i1ir^^ £^vang, J. A ;J;*th Ke/^iment,... ■English, D.. Montreal,.. . Eagjeton, Co'rporai'w;: T^J S^'^^'^'^'^'b^rg, fgie, Sergeant J.. ^Srd Fusiliers,.... ^ Evans, Serjeant MaVor of !? fusiliers ;;;; J Edwards,—..... "J"''^- 23rd Fusiliers, ^ Ellerj, Miss,.. Manchester,. * U6T OF SUBSCRIBERS. 9 Bombay,...,! Bombay,.... I Major,'.*.*.".' 1 1 1 1 c::::::::: \ I 1 1 1 I 1 1 •ester,.... i n 1 10 1 P I ?ster, 1 I I 1 I 2 1 2 I 1 1 >ntreal,20 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 ...... I ". I n,.... 2 m,... 1 2 land, 1 I...... 1 1 Ileromg, T Ch., Exchange, ManchMt«r,.« Fleming, Dr. M. 1) Brouehton View. ManoheitM*. Fortune, Quarter Master 23rd Fusiliers, Fojr, Miyor. 71»t Highland L. I Ford, A. J... B. E. Department Florence. J., junior 400 Broadway, New York,.... Fftvy, J 23rd Fusiliers, Ford, P 23rd Fusiliers, Fletcher, J., Q. M. Sergeant 23rd Fusiliers Farrow, J Canal Basin, Famden.G St. Louis Street Fisher, J. C, L. L. D Quebec Frew, J Quebec, Frazer, Dr Biflo Brigade Fazakerley, — Bridgewater St., Manchester,. Foulkes, E Solicitor. Manchester Freeling, Clayton Dublin, Freke, Surgeon R Dublin Freke, W Solicitor, Dublin Farmer, '^T Winchestor House, London,... Greenock, Lord A.F. 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers,... Granville, F., Major 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers,.. _ Gugy, Colonel A., M. P. P De Bleury Street 10 Granthan, Dr. D., 23rd Fusiliers, Grant, Daniel Bury, Lancashire Garman, Rev. N Head Mas. Gram. Sch., Man., Glass, John Montreal, Galway, Lieutenani W., 77th Rpgiment, Gallogher, J 23rd Fusiliers Green, R. J 23rd Fusiliers, Goodrich, C Burlington George, Sergeant 23rd Fusiliers, Gilbert, Color Sergeant 23rd Fusiliers, Gordon, J Montreal, Griffin, Gilbei-t Montreal,. Grant, p Ordnance Department, Quebec, Gillespie, A Ordnance Department, Quebec, Gale, D Quebec Goodfellow, — Water Street, Manchester, Gough, C King Street, Manchester, Goldsmith,— Gravesend, Grettan, Lieutenant Royal Navy, Manchester, Grundy, E TheWylde', Bury,Manche8ter, Graham, Dr Royal Navy, Guise, Lieutenant, Grix, Sergeant Major. 56th Regiment Grundy, Miss..... Bury, Lancashire, Hoghton, Sir H. Bold, (Bart)... London, "ST OP SUBSORIBEKS. 10 '^arria, Colonel ^ ^, HalJoway, CoJonoJ,. ' f?'^'^ ^ "siJiers, . «opton.L:fiufcenant gammond, Lieut goger, JunieC S'«« Bn-feade,:;: f gare. Captain... <-''envii]e ' noffftrth. .Mnjor'c B 5^'^ Regiment,.." | Hare. liev. lij^'^ 26th Kejiment... Hughes, Lieutenam;:;:::: 9^/nV/,^>P'- Har^riei* '£•;• i Hughes LioutonanC. ?;"S^ J^'?^/^^"*,... ....." ^'S' f namilton, J... * H«ney,J ;;;;• Custom House J HoJmot), ,T... Court House ' Haij. J. ,.;;;;;;• • Trinity Hous'e"*..".'.* } Handley, Sergcant^VV.' ^'^^I'T'^ J>epartra;nt; J Hitchcock, Serffeunt j; ^^"^ -"^usilier^^ ' J Hutchins, J. lif ';"' ^^ 20rd Fusiiiers..:;: Harvey A. G f> I'auJ Street,... f gf>wel}. Sergeant. ' Montreal J Howell, Lieutenant.:: of'? S"''^'«''« ."•'::: i Hartley, W M. B P''^ f^usiliers ^ JJeuderson, Peter. Montreal, liar 1% Vor,^. ;;;•;• 36 St. George StreeL 1 1 {j*>'««. M. ;;;;; care of MnLoveridJ; ; Hayes, ~ Montreal ^' * Harris, Charies'" Montreal....*::: ^ Hughe., N. "^t Mr. Philjin* a'^I*^ ^ Hooper, A. C. Montieal,... ., '-•• » Hall, Georffe Quebec '" 1 Hall, G. b! Quebec 1 iS&S,^g5^^^^s;gh:r^"^^^^^^ ' "*' Tx , — » - B ..:; J^V'g street Manchester" Henderson, Rev. J.... ^o^''-'' or, Manchester,. ' *%wood^ T. Manchester * Hutchinson, W:::;:;:;;;; J^T''^-ay, iiancheVter f ^*ooper, J. DuMin, '' * Hulme, — ' ^ankofEnWanH mIU'u * HardcaWj;:::;::;::;:; ^'« s'-Kfi?'*'' J Hargre^ve^fe z:z::t::^,?^''j^^ I LIST OP SUBSCRIBEBS. 11 I S I 4 I I I Jth Keg! I I 1 I 1 I 1 1 1 I I 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 /»••••• 1 nent, i •<>•••• 1 1 1 ... 1 1 St, J '' 1 a... 1 • ••• 1 • •ff • 1 >«•• 1 ... 1 ... 1 er, 1 ... 1 B., 1 .. 1 .. 1 Ilardman, E..., Chambers Hall, Bur j.Lancas. 2 Halkett, Miss Craigoe 1 Si I wood Place, Bngh. Sussex, Harris, J. C » Radford, „ Hawker, W. H Plymouth, , Holt, B Bury, Lancashire, Harper, — Solicitor, Lancashire, Harrison, J ...Ir well House, Lancashire, Harrison, Jnc Green Banks, Lancashire,...,.. Hodgson, E. W Leberts & Co., Bradford, Hollond, Dr Philo, Soci., Shef., Yorkshire, Heeny, Color Sergeant 22nd Krgiment, , Hindle, Sergeant Major 60th Rifles, .'. Hogg, Cajptain 90th Rcgiaient .'. Harvey, J. Commissariat. Bombay, fngilby, C. H Lieutenant Royal Artillery,... Isaa^json, J. H Notary, Montreal, Idler, Ernest, Corner of Dorchester Street,. irwin, Corporal 23rd Fusiliers, Ibbitson,H. I Globe Works, Sheffiield,....'.*.. Jones, Captain 23rd Fusiliers Jones, D. Captain 60th Rifles, Jarvis, Judge Cornwall, ,.**.'..' Jane, Assistant Surgeon 71st Regiment, H. L. I., *..". Jarvis, Color Sergeant 77th Regiment,... Johnson, S 23rd Fusiliers, Johnson, James 2 St. Mary Street, Johnson, J. G Montrpal, Jones, George Quebec,...., '„,[', Jackson, G Bridge Street, Manchester,.... Johnson, — Bury, Lancashire, Jerrutt, Frederick 22nd Regiment, .Tones, J. Sergeant :....22nd Regiment, ."] Kerr, Lord Mark A. D.C.tothe Gov. General... Kaye, Alderman Manchester, Kingsford, W , Montreal Khriecoff, Cornwallis Great St. James Street, Koane, a , Ordnance Department, Kinton, J Barclay Place, Keary, Sergeant, 23rd Fusiliers Knapton, oerjeant 23rd Fusiliers Kays, J Gain Street , Kain, C Keith, John Campbell Bryson, Knapp, — DeBleury Street Kelly, Color Sergeant 22nd Regiment, *^«ijvv, -oaj^iaui r\uvvcasueunaerijyrae, Love, Captain 9 1st Regiment, late 60th Rifles, Lawson, Captain 56th Regiment, 12 LIST OP SUBSCHIBERS. Lindsay, Charles t^ . , La Merf, Captain......; .V; .ftrH'^'lvV ■L«e, Josephs iJJ'^" ^'gnlanders,. LancasterrFk Montreal, .7 Lamart, N..... '.*.*.'.*.*.'.'.*.'.'.* S' ^"ffjneer Depa T -^r"'^' p !?.,"• - ;r apartment, Laidly, DC. General... Mon.^T^ ^^epartraent, Lindsej, W. B... Montreal, Lindsay, W.,, "' St. Johns .\\ ' ^Lettle, G.. ,..'.*.* ^^' Johns, [[''[ * Library..."".'.".';;* '•••!* ^'-Antoine Street,*.*. J Lyman, J.. Kine Brigade, J Laggatt, H.;;;.';;; jf^'^'e Dame Street,'.;;; 7 Langslouffh, — . t'S'^^^ ^^ame Street,. , Lay. Alexander;;; -Montreal 'J"' J Large, Sergeant W:;:::Z oZ^T^- Lyons, M., ^^'" Fusihers Leslie, E. S.;;;;;;; Cigar Divan, Montreal Lyons, SamI Montreal, Loveridge, D. ^^^I^ ^ame Street,.. Lamb, J, ; ^t- Mary Street ' Library....^..; -Artist, Montreal,...; * , Lavicount, A.*K * 2^^^^ ^''^J^ery,...;.; : ^evy, -^ i/nibroke Street,.. Low, S ;; Notre Dame Street,." Longmore, M..*;;;;."; ^^^'® ?^ ^he Barrack Master *' Lovis, J <:;'Oiirier Office, '"* Lanauze, Lieutenant.*; fLu'^'^^^'^''^''---'''''^.\'yy.''.'. Lanauze, — ^^^" *^^g'nnent,.... , j^e, Joshua;.*;;;*;; p*' ;;;;;;; , Lyons, John... ^H?.'''^' Lancashire,.... , Lee,-— Dublin, * Lewis, Coionei;;;; ^''''^i'^^^'SbeffieidVYorka'i;-'"" J La Motte, -...;;;;;; g-yal Engineers, Dublin,. !''' Longworth, Sergeant.*.*. f^olton, Lancashire, ;' Macdougall, Sir D M n"\""'lt^ insiliers MaclainS, S r I M^rf;""'-;-^"^^^'' ^^--vice Club ' Maelaine,' Coionei fl ^^"^^^'-United Service Club, .V;" Markham, Lieutenant'cd;nd""30nd'^ Majonbanks. Mrs. Campbell '^rfr ^'"iment Messiter, Lieutenant Cdoner'"olh ff •^'''^'''^^^•' ^'^"^on Munroe, Colonel. '""^'- rj'th liegiment, ' Montizambert, E. ZZZl 49T m"^ ^l^' t'-^' (D"blin;y.;;; ^ Montizambert, C. N A? u "''" ^*- ♦^^"es Street, 1 Morrison, Lieutenant.;;.*;;; ^"^itTv"-- Montague, P. "ovalLngmeers, Macdougall, d"l Montreal, Mackenzie, Dr.*. m'd Montreal -aiann, jjr., M. D ^'''.'r'''^^^*^""^«''Lyme,.. 9 ' Bndgewater Street, Mandir; I 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 •••••«......., 1 I 4 1 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 13 Molson, Mrs. Wm Montreal Meason, W. L 71st Kegiment H. L. I, '.'. Mofftttt, Ogilvy Montreal, Macdougall, L Montreal, Maggridge, Lieutenant Royal Engineers J.?.?**^!i^* Royal Engineer Department... Mills, Thomas... Chambly, Murray,. — , Commissariat Department Mostyn, Lieutenant 77th Regiment, Maitland, J. H St. James Street, Montgomerie, H. E Sherbrooke Street, Mess, Sergeants, 77th Regiment,. Monarty, Color Sergeant 77th Regiment, ^usson, J Quebec ManseU, M 23rd Fusiliers JJundy,D Lachine Canal Basin Moore, Sergeant Alfred 23rd Fusiliers Montague, J. M. P Montreal '. JJann, D 3 St. Mary Street, Maffre, J., juni Montreal, Merritt, F Meredith, W. C Advocate Morgan, W Sadler, Montreal !...,!!!!! Merntt, H. S Bank, B. N. A., Quebec, Miller, Lieutenant P. F Royal Artillery, Quebec, Macdougall, John Quebec, Mainwaring, C Whitemore, Staffordshire,.!!!!! Mayes, C Mr. Baines, Clements Lane, Mechanics Institute Bury, Lancashire, Mosley, R Sec, South Western Railway*, Myhns, Captain 26th Regiment, f; J- M. 8th Regiment, Margeson, Lieutenant. 56th Regiment, Murray, Lieutenant Colonel F....17th Regiment, late 60th Rifles Mangnall, — King Street, Salford, Lane.,... Morton, Sergeant 22nd Regiment, Maud, Sergeant W 40th Regiment, M'Gill. Hon. P Donegana's Hotel M'Carty, Lieutenant 77th Regiment, M'Pherson, Duncan Quebec, M'Limont, A. N Quebec, !!!!!!!!!!!!*" M'Dermott, G Newcastle under Lyme,!!!!!!!!! M'Keuzie,— , Beaver Hall, M'Gregor, J Nazareth Street, *.. M'Coy, Jno St. James Street M'Indnfi. M". . Hf^rv^^ — 1 . ,- J .. .-......,,, •■tiii»i««iii tTiVTlLX ceil** •••••••*•««••• X M'Millen, Jas 3 St. Mary Street, !...!!!! 1 M'Gumess, J Montreal, 2 14 LIST OP SUBSCKIBEES. M'Veagh. - - M'Guire, ~. ;;; S-f^^/^nd Regiment, Montreal. 1 Note, M. Genl. Sir W "k* P 'r^*' "^^Jl^f-; 1 Norman. Major. ..^^ ^'^- ^Z2 ?f ^ri"dley & Co.,Lond 3 >^apior, D. C ^^^" K<'giment j Nixon, Lieutenant j'p )^'' Regiment, n.'Ll,',',',',,]] i Nixon, Lieutenant J..."lZ[l'"' f H. E. J. C. Service 1 Norris, Thos.. A ^ otrvice NuttalJ, J... ^"""y. Lancashire, y Newton, Qr. Mas'tti';:;:;; ^^"P; Lancashire :;;;;;; i Oakley, Captain fl'l V/-V"^"' I Ormrod, Jus... ^'Gth Kegiment , O'Noil, J Haliiwell Lodge, Bolton, . '" i Overburjr, Colo^ Se;-g;anV J ^^Ti' ^¥'^ ^'^Soons,.,Z 1 O'Neill. Sergeant J__ o. J I '■■""' 1 Orr,John... :^3rd in&iliers, j ogfien, G. P.;;;:;;;;;; ,^"^rf Dame street, ;;;;;;; i Ordnance Libr— Quebec,, •Jiry. Pritchard frrW"",**: l>ublin, * p^^^^u'"'' ^- ^- ^-f r'^'.-..::^::::::::::;;;: l^aris. Rev. A....." w!^^^^'' ^■^' ^'' M. g! O.* 2 Jassey, Major E. w' W r! u^»"''? ^^^ctory g Potter, Rev.— / :^6th Kegiment , Mips, Lieutenant.:::::: oZh^^'P''''^''''' *::: i pollock. Lieutenant.. p '^ ,*"«^llf -^ 1 Percival, V., Surgeon jj^'^ ^^^t.'ery, Montreal i Pasley. Lieutenant" .' p''^^' Artillery, Montreal } Proctor, T fl^^jai -H/ngineers, j Perry, G. L.....'.,', 23rd Fusiliers ;;;" j Prince, J. Jt. Urbain Street, . Patrick, W.:: JfT^^' "ear Bostoii,...'*.*.* 4 Phillips, J ;;;;;;;;; ^; Jf. General's Department;: 1 Patton, Duncan.... n u ^''^ ^'^^^' Academy,... i Patton, James : Q^^*^^' 1 ^?rk''nson.j :;;; g"j;bec Philipps, J, Lloyd.. -j^uO. Lancashire, ^ Quinn, Major J. !)..,['.','. 1"^,^^ %^' ^h^'*"^' Exchange St. 3 Roper, Sir H -^Srd Fusihers, " j Rushbrook, Cd'onei: *M " P t 1 ^^'^''^^ J^"stice of Bombiy: 1 Ross.Thos... ;J"i itegiraent, j Robert on, E.x:.v;;::;:::- fc::^^!' :.';:: i lingers, W.M. "--"yui Commissariat Department..... 1 LIST OP SUBSCKIBEES. 15 '> Montreal, 1 ••• 1 Co.,Lond. 3 1 rtment,.... i I -»•!.. 1 :e 1 I 1 I 1 ton, 1 >ons, 1 1 1 1 1 1 '\i'.'G."0. 2 2 1 I 1 real i real, i 1 1 1 1 1 4 tment,. 1 1 1 1 ige St. 3 1 mbaj, 1 E\ I 1 It..... 1 Robertson, Mrs. Dr St. James Street i Kowe, Thos.. Royal Engineer Department! 1 Koss, Color Sergeant Rifle Brigade i Riley, Alexander 23rd Fusiliers, ..'.'." y Robinson, J 23rd Fusiliers ."*' i Robertson, D Montreal, " i Ready, J. M., 1 Durham Place, '..,.'.'.['.' l Rapsey, Color Sergcaat J 23rd Fusiliers i Renaud, E. J Montreal, 1 Roberts, Serg^eant, 23rd Fusiliers, *.*.*.*'.*.".'/.'." I Robertson, Messrs 2 St. Paul Street, " l Raffan, J.. careofMr.Mann,3St.Mary8t! I Routh, J., D. A. C. G Montrenl, i Rogers, Rev. E. E St. Helens ."..*.* .*"* i Ross, D. M late 1st Roynls, " i Ready, Captain C D. Q. M. General's Offiee....*.*. 1 Richardson, Robert Quebec, i Roe, F. N Oueb^o' , Raban, Lieutenant 56th Regiment, i Raine, Henry Bury, Lancashire, '.ZZ 2 Ramsay, Lieutenant Fox Maule,56th Regiment, i Robson, Lieutenant 5th Dragoon Guards,..!,'.'.*.'.*.*.'.'.' i Rose, R. J., J. P No wcjiPt'e under Lyme,.... i Ryarie, R.... care of Captain A. Ry arie',!.*;.' 1 Ramsay, Sir Alexander, Bart,. ..of Balmain, .... i Rogers, Sergeant R 56th Regiment, ...' l Ryan, Dr., M. D 56t»i Regiment, '" i Richards,F.C ...Manchester, i Robertson, W. N. City Bank, i J'ce. G St Johns .'.' Sale, M. Gen. Sir R.,K.C B. &c.,Uted.Ser.Club; forLady'sde' Saye and Sele, Lord care ofMrs. Thornton, London, If' T^-'"n Crompton Fold, Bolton Lane. Stopford, Rev. G j Sutton, Lieutenant, 71st Highland, L. T, i btehelin. Captain., Royal Engineers "' i Seymour, R. A Montreal, '„,„',['. 1 ou //' ?"A'": Ordnance Department .'.*.*!.* i bhaddock, Serjeant, 20th Regiment, Kingston, l Sabine, A. F St. Franyois Xavier Street,... 1 Savage, D. Notre Dame Street, i Shipman, J,. Montreal, o I ^r'^xr^r; •• ^^ S'- Urbain Street,...*.*.'.*.';.','; i Smith, W. H 23rd Fusiliers, i Smith, Ferdinand F. Morning Courier, ....'.*;" i Sm»»ie, D Montreal J snnn'°v^« ^°y^^ ^^^^'' Quebec,.'.;.;;;;;;;; i Spong, W.H Q. Master General's Office,... l 16 LIST OF SUBSCKIBEBS. 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 I 1 Stewart, G. Mayor of Quebec, Sealy J Quebec, Skinner, A WAe Brigade, Quebec, Scott, Wra.. Quebec Sterenson, H. E Quebec,.. Sherrier,-, J^^'Jf^fc—; J Supple, J St. P: ul Street I yijj^jy B Shudohill, Manchester, Sloan' J.*..*.*. Manchester, Smith R.P Bank of England, London,.... Smith! J.....*.*.*.*.'.i .Manchester....... Smith 8 Bolton, Lancashire, Smith, Warwick, Oldham Street. Manchester,... Stork 'w Solicitor, Glossop, Stisted, Captain 2ud, or Queen's Royals, Sndlow, J.. Solicitor, Manchester, Sparkes, Lieutenant R. M 86th Regiment Svdnev & Horsman, .Market Street, Manchester,.... Swan, J l^i"ff Street, Manchester, Swaine, Q. Master J ...56th Regiment,.... Schofields, S Oldham, Lancashire,.... Smith R Harewood House, Leeds, Slade,*R^'vVj.*.'. Vicar of Bolton, Lancashire,. 1 Smith, Captain 56th l]?Sl"^^''y''y--'-:"'r: ] Smith, Sergeant J 78th Highlanders, (late 40th.) 1 Tenterden, Lord London....... J Turner, Major General Cork, Ireland.............. } Talbot, Major, A. D. C to Commander in Chief, 1 Tomkins, Captain 77th Regiment,, 1 Taylor, J., O. R. S RifleBrigade^................... Thompson, E Su Franyois Xavier Street,.... Thomas, R 23rd Fusiliers Thomas, J • 23rd 1 usiliers, Thomas, J., P. M..Sergeant 23rd Fusi hers Tuite, Sergeant J 23rd Fusiliers, Townsend, W. A Notre Dame Street Twibyen, — ....-^ Water Works, Turner, Captain Montreal,. Travers ..Custom House, Tipson, Captain, Steamer Iron Duke Tims, F , Quebec Tim8,W Quebec, <T«|^i* Dublin, Taylor, — Temple Street, Manchester,... Taylorl Manchester, Tl.rti.ntnn. T.iplltenant. J ff TT__— TlnvV/^'Iir fttraot Thornton, W. S 'Y Portman Square, London,.. Thornton, Mrs. W. H. ) 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 LIST OP atlBSCRIBEBS. ' 17 Todd, Rev. J. H. Trinity College, DabHnH^.;....\H Townsend, J '..King Street, Manchester,.....;"!.'' TraflTord, J. Manche:: ier, i Thornton, J. Butler, Sounds Street, Lpndon, 1 Thompson, C. N Winchester House, London,.;. j(^ Taylor, C Oldham Street, Manchester,;.. Jl' Tanner, R....... Market Street^ Manchester,... I. Travers, J Bridge Street, Manchester,.... I Taylor, Color Sergeant St. Helena Regiment, a^ Udell, Sergeant J 23rd Fusiliers i Vaughan, Captain Sorel, 2 Vincent, Lieutenant 23rd Fusiliers, ..... i Van Kleck, C. A care of Mr. J. Gordon,....!!.*.'.* 1 Vickerman, — Bookseller, Bury, Lancashire, 1 Warre, M. Gen Sir W.,K. T. S.Manchester, i Wemyss, Major General., C. B.. Manchester i Wilson, W.J Quebec, !. i Wyke, Major, 56th Regiment l^'jii'uy;;r*° ^' ^" '^^ ^'"^ West, Colonel Lieut. Gover., Longford'Fort*! 1 Wegg, Major 56th Regiment, Isle of Wight, 1 Waddell, Captain 56th Regiment, i Weatherly, Captain Montreal, !!! i Walken, C Royal Engineer Department, 1 Walden, Miss St. Paul Street i Williamson, J 23rd Fusiliers, !! i Williams, J 23rd Fusiliers, *** i Walls, H 23rd Fusiliers i Warton, J. D., Corporal 23rd Fusiliers, !. i Watkins, Thos ; 23rd Fusiliers, !!! i Watson, W 28 St. Joseph Street l White, J 23rd Officers Mess i Walsh, P. Montreal i Walcott, — Commissariat Department 1 Weaver, Sergeant 23rd Fusiliers, i Walker,— Sherbrooke, !!! i Whitney P Missisquoi 2 Walsh, J Quebec, !. i' White, Richard P Quebec i Wade, M. B Quebec, !!!!!!!!. 1 Wynn, Captain W. W 23rd Fusiliers, !! i Washington, G Ravvtenstal, Lancashire !!! i Westall, Mr. Spread Eagle Hotel, Manr.,.!. 1 Wemyss, Lieutenant Manchester i White, Major, Dublin, !..!!!!!! 1 Willis, J King Street, Manchester^.,.!!! i Williams, Mr King Street, Manchester^!!!!!! i Wynne, — Bury, Lancashire, i B 18 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. Wetherall, Colonel, C.B. D.A.G.St. Antoine Street Woodford, Lieutenant 66th Regiment, Ward, Lieutenant F. 56th Regiment, ,. Woodcock, W. P Solicitor, Bury, Lancashire,.!! Walker, J., M. P. Belle Vue, Lancashire, Washington, Sergeant 4Ist Regiment Webb, J « Sadler, Birmingham, Yates, — Norton Hall, Sheffield Young, T. A Quebec, Young, Seijeant Major J 4Ist Regiment, CONTENTS. CHAPTER L War in Central Asia; Army under Sir John Keane; Her Ma- jesty's Ship Wellesley; Embarkation of H. M. 40th Regiment for Kurrachie ; Brig Hannah, with the Bombay Artillery; Arrival at Minora, mouth of the Indus; Fortification of Minora; A Summons to Surrender; The Flag of Truce; Preparations for Battle; Disembarkation of the Troops; Admi- ral Maitland and Colonel Valiant; Ascent of the Troops up the Mountains; Evacuation of the Fortress by the Enemy; Kurra- chie, its environs ; Traffic; Native Government; Food soon supplied; Markets; Difference of Camp and Quarters; Mise- ries of the latter; Troops visited by Cholera; Awful ravages of Disease; Unremitting attention of Surgeon M'Andrew; Scinde and its People; United Hostility against the British ; Faqueers or Native Priests; their power over the people; their mode of living; Harrassing Boute from Minora to Kurrachie; Precarious situation; Development of British perseverance. CHAPTER II. Safe arrival into Camp; Uncomfortable Lodging; Barren Coun- try; Effects of Filth; Position of Camp; Second Grenadiers Native Infantry ; Massacre of Captain Hand ; Exploit of Lieutenant Clarke; Desperate Leap down a precipice; Cry of Revenge; Troops in Camp; Dust Storms; Miseries thereby occasioned; Force increased; State of Scinde ; Reserve Force; Sir John Keane's advance on Cabool ; Rumours of capturing "Dooprinfinn nf TTvrlrolinrl ■ r — — J ^Pr^Vt •Cj ^e tu T>_:*:-u Functionary, Sir H. Pottinger; Ameers of Scinde; Removal )f 20 CONTENTS. their Body Guards; Substitution of a BriHsh Subsidiary Force; Scinde made tributary to tho British Government; Sir John Koane resumes his March for Cabool; Monotonous life of the Scinde Force; Troops put into Huts; Description of Huts; Bad made Worse; Hospitals crowded; Minora selected as a Sanatorium; Benefit derived thereby; Curious Phenomenon; Boiling Spring; Sacred Alligator Lake; Picnics; Fate of a Dog. CHAPTER III. Improvement of Kurrochie; News from Upper Country of the Capture of Ghuznee ; Cabool; Coronation of Shah-Shooja- ool-Moolk as King of Cabool; Sir T. Wiltshire takes Kelat Return of Sir John Keane's Army; Arrival in Kurrachie Favorable opportunity; Brilliant Staff; Prince Hyder Khan, Presentation of New Colors to the 40th Regiment; Departure of the Cabool Army for Bombay; Wreck of H. M. 17th Rp^t . in the "Hannah"; Dreadful loss sustained by the Corps; Prospects of an Insurrection ; Call upon Brigadier Farquharson to supply Troops; His inability to comply r Despatch of the Right Wing 40th; An Aifghan's opinion of European Power; Preparations for March to Tatta; A slight retrogade step in the story; Embarkation of Troops in the Ship Stalkart, laden with Powder and Camp Equipage; Alarm of Fire at Sea; Expectation of being blown up; Description of Scene; Dis- covery of Cause; Effect Produced; Arrival at Destination; The Murderers of Captain Hand; The Commander of the Party; A Priest hanged; March of the Wing to Googah. Jts beau- ties; Tatta; Embarkation in Boats; Arrival at Tatta. CHAPTER IV. Tatta: Its appearance from the Indus; The River Indus; Its Inundations, like the Nile; Danger of being overpowered b/ the Current; Whirpools; Curious modes of Swimming and Na- vigation ; Description of Jerrick ; dreadful Catastrophe ; Bum- .H^ o. ^*, ni^t/c. u aiivi ltto uiiiurs, joniisn Omcers, by Firing CONTENTS. 21 the Jungle; Impossibility of Escape; Surmise as to cause; Shikarees or Hunting Grounds of Ameers of Soinde; Appear- ance of Hydrabad from Indus; Lucknee Mountains; Pleasure Boats of the Ameers; Description of Workmanship; The Ameers of Scindo; The Power and Scource of Revenue; Lake of Harran; Larkana; Arrival at Bukkur; Conjunction of Troops; Description of Sukkur; Fortress of Bukkur: Its Situation and Employment; State Prisoners; The Prince of Shawl and Grand Vizier of Kelat; Strict Guard on them; Their Treatment and Allowances; Short History of the Prince; Release of the Prisoners; Their Employment by Go- vernment; Ross Bell, Esquire, Political Agent; Captain Bean; Defeat of Lt. Clarke's Force; His Death; Dreadful Loss of Stores, &c.; Awful situation of Troops in Sukkur; Prepara- tions for War; Press for Cattle; Effect of the appearance of British Troops; March of Troops to Shikarpoor; Equipment of the Force; Appearance of Shikarpoor. ' CHAPTER V. DeseriptionofaMarch in the East; Extreme Change of Wea- ther; European Constitution; Young Officers; Their Praise- worthy Conduct; Preparations for Active Service completed; Departure of Force; Destination ; Dadur; The Enemy^; Nusseer, the Youthful King of Kelat; His Mother, Beebee Qunjan; His Uncle, Gool Mahomed; Their Efforts to Anni- hilate Small Forces; Attempt to recapture Kelat; Lieutenant Loveday, Bombay N. L; Massacre of his Force; His life ran- •omed by two Banyans; Becomes a Hostage; His Treatment; Nusseer's unsuccessful attack on Dadur; Three times De- feated; Arrival at Rojan; Fadguing March across the Desert ofScinde; Confidence of Captain Boscawen in his Men; Cer- tainty of British Valour; Enemy Encamped on the other side; Arrival at the Spot; Decampment of the Enemy towards Kunda; Cavalry despatched after them; Movement of Force to Kunda; Appearance of the Enemy; Battle; Description of Scene; Private Jeeiings; General Acknowledgment; My First Battle Field; Prisoners taken; Arrival of Nawab* 22 UUNTENT9. Mahomed Shereave; Sentence passed on Prisoners; Ma- homed's Manner; Anecdote of an English Rifle; Night Alarm; March to Oodana; Want of Water; Encampment on a Barren Plain. CHAPTER VI. Another Retrograde Movement; Interesting Account of one of the Banyans, who ransomed the Life of Loveday; Curious Discovery in the Merchont; Sudden Metamorphosis into a young Englishman; A brief History of his career; March to Kotra; Re-appearance of the Enemy; Straggling Shots; 25th Regt., N. I., left at Kotra; Welcome of the Force at Kotra by the inhabitants; Havoc made by the Insurgents; Situation of Kotra, with the Gundavie Pass; A Blockade; March to Sunnee; A Night's March; Distressing Route; We reach Seran; Mysore; Departure; Sudden Route; Ai rival of Des- patches from Dadur, announcing a Grand Attack on the 2nd November; Necessity of a Reinforcenent at Dadur; Dreadful situation of Troops; Seven weeks on sentry; Orders to force march to Dadur; Detention of Couriers for Guides; The Mysore Pass; Midnight; Description of Pass ; Previous Position ; Sudden Alarm ; Suspicions of Treachery ; Route Intercepted; Discovery of ravine flooded; Impossibility to proceed; Night 1st November; Interrogation of the Guides; Their protestation of innocence; Another very long Route discovered; Determination to proceed ; Troops re-formed; Serious reflection; Miseries of the night; Credit due to the Native Troops; The break of day; Poor progress made; Energetic advancement; Determination to accomplish ; Dadur in sight; And happy welcome. CHAPTER VII. Preparations for Battle; Energy of the little Drummers; Con- junction of the Dadur Forces P'^sUion taken up by Mahomed Shereuve; Captain Boscawen' . "vaxigem.ut; Young Malcolm's Cavalry; The Advance; PosiiVn t^diilovementsof theEuemy; CONTENTS. 18 Difoorery ofaTrick; Sudden Retreat of the Foe; Admirable Practice of our Artilloiyi A Noblo Cavalry Movement; The decampment of the Eutmy ; Retreat into the Bol n Tagg; Vexa- tious Scene; Advance to the Deserted Camp; Appearance of an European Tent; Distressing scene; The Discovery of the murdered body of Loveduy; His last breath; His sor- rant; His situation; Story told by him; Brutal treatment ; Gool Mahomed, the insfigator; Feelings of the Troops; Two of the Enemy f und secref'd; ^Effects of drunkenness; HinU to Soldiers; Dangerous position; Slight wound; Too much sanguinityaf times dangerous; Necessity of implicit obedience in the Eciv.ct; Ability of Commanders; 38 th Regiment, N. I., left in charge of Prize; Encampment; Dadur; Its situation with the Bolun; State of the Troops; Burial of Loveday; Description of British Stronghold at Dudur; The severity of the climate; The effect of the water; Painful malady; Scar- city of Provisions ; Annoyance of the Enemy; Troops always under Arms; Original recipes for cooking; Precaution of Major Boscawen; 38th Regiment ordered up the Pass is weatherbound. CHAPTER VIII. Sojourn at Dadur; The Kotra Force; Nusseer still determined; Lieutenant Chamberlain; Colonel Marshall at Kotra; En- campment of the Enemy near Kotra; Secret Expedition; Silent preparations for Battle; Midnight Surprise; Glorious Victory ; Escape of Nusseer ; Dreadful loss amongst the Enemy; Colonel Stacy at Quetta; His Directions to Nego- ciate ; Unjust liberality of the British ; General Brooks ; A large lorce for further Exploits; Evidence of another War; Assembly of a Grand Army at Sukkur; Its March to Mungal Ka Shier; Left Wing 40th with the Grand Army; Orders for the Right Wing to join Head Quarters; Second Grenadier Regiment left at Dadur; March to Mungal Ka Shier; Arrival at Aji Ka Shier; Route theieto; Night marching; Defile; Arfivalin Cuuip at Midnight; Coraniissanat lost; Bad look- ovX; Camp Surprises; Recollections of Major Clibborn's mishap; \\ i i 1 i 24 CONTENTS. Despfttchfls to Diidur; CoUfotion of a meal; Arrival of a lost fiiond; Conjunction with tho Grand Army; Stato of the Country} l>;.8itiou und Tower of Political Agonts; Demand on KojukforTiibuto; rrc'ri'mpt..ryKofu84l; Attempt at a Broach; Colono! Wilson dtfoated and wounded; Rascally conduct of th« f^opoy a; During Exploit of Mty European Artillery; Serious loss; The Storm; Fall of its Commander, Lieut. Creed. CHAPTEU IX. iiotreatuf Uio Enemy: Possession of the Fort; An attempt at swamping the Camp made; Admirable conduct of the Troops; J»rovention of annoyance; Old Proverb realized; Despatch sent to General Brooks; Reinforcement ordered; Sudden March; Advantages and disadvantages; Threatening thunder storm; Awful prospect; Description of scene; Precarious situation; A dreadful stonn ; Miserable coudiUon of Troops; Anxious prayer fur day; Horrible attacks of Cramps; Indes- cribable prospect; March resumed; Arrival atKojuk; Lossof Cattle, Ac; Plunder of the Fort; Ke-establishment of a Com- misai-iut; Mode of making dry ground; Soldiers never lost tor means; The Enemy disappears; Death of Colonel Wilson; March to Dadur; Preparations for Route through the Passes; Appearance of a suspicious Camp; Destination of 4()th is learned. CHAPTEK X. Arrival at Dadur; Conjunction of Troops; Meeting of 41st and 40U» Regiments; Active J'repai-atious for marching up the Country J Description of ground near Dadur, and the mouth of tho P,uis; March of tho First Division; Road to the - Enti-ance; A Boar Chase, Description of first day's Jlorch; The Sorpoutiae Stream; Soldier's case; Sublime not always pleasing; Second day's Moi'ch; Continuance of the stream; Soldier's bouts; A three milo wade; Fatigue of the dey; Third day; Appearuuco of tho Enemy: Halt at Bobee Naunp«: Capture by the Enemy of Cattlej Rwovery of it; Destruction CONTENTS. 25 of the Rebels; Precautions taken to prevent harrassment; Fourth day; Abi Gaum, or the Region of Hidden Waters; Romantic appearance; Scarcity of firewood; Entire want of Forage ; Fifth day ; Curious appearance ; Awfully grand ; Narrow defile ; Power of defence ; Sixth day ; Narrowness anddangerofthePass; Descriptionof the Mountains; Length of Pass ; Seventh day ; Description of scene ; Beauties of the Valley of Shawl; Comparison; Emerging from the Pass. CHAPTER XI. Arrival at Quetta; Uncomfortable prospects; Scorpions unplea- ' sant companions; Effect of their sting; The venemous Sente- pee ; Determination of Government to treat with Nusseer Khan; Colonel Stacy's endeavours; Quetta and ite appear- ance; The British Residency; Government Stores; Prepara- tions for a long Campaign; A new Corps raised; Arrival of H. M's 41st Regiment; Captain Blood's Artillery; Prospect of taking the Khan; Despatch of a force; Harrassing route; Spies; Forced marches; Wild Goose chase; Sickness; Troops die in great numbers; Another failure; Feeling of the Troops; General Brooks; His unpleasant position; His character; Who was to blame? Peculiarity of situation; Trying circumstances; Forced to make the best of bad; Thunder storm; Miseries in Camp; Unexpected arrival ia Camp; The Prince of Shawl turned Traitor; Dreadful havoc through sickness; Fever, Ague and Dysentery; Hospital Tents crowded; Insufficient accom- moda^'on; Scarcity of comforts; Enormous prices paid for them J Indefatigable exertions of Dr. Mc Andrew and Mr. Xavier, the Apothecary; The probable cause of the sickness; Vast mortality; Death of Ross Bell, Esq. and Lieut. Valiant; K raoval from Command in the Field of General Brooks and Brigadier Valiant; Cause of removal; Sad affair; New Com- manders; Arrival of Nusseer Khar; Levee; Review; Appears ance of winter; Prospect of returning to Quarters; Prepara- tionsj Route changed; General Nott's Despatch; Orders to march to Caudabar; in Affghanistan. 26 CONTENTS. ' 1 Fr 1^ i CHAPTER XII. March to Candahar; The foot of the Goths; The Kojuk Pass- tTL\ K r'"'' '^"'^ Cantonments; Their unfinished T^Hv T 1:T^^^^ ^'''^-> I>-riptionof the City; Tombof the Emperor, Ahmed Shah; Timor Shah- SufterJung; Military fo.e; Vicinity of Candahar; Ghu':!;; mwantof succour, Major McLaren dospatcli d; Is intercepted by the snow; Groat loss; Unfortunate result; Winter sets in- oZLtT '"- ''" '"'"^' ^''' ^^"^«' Appearance of an nlaHf f' Al'^rm-'g prospect; Troops continually under arms; Dreadful news from Cabool; Orders to Evacuate; State of the Ki ^ 7^ I*"' '''^''' Preparations for Battle; The Citv blockaded; Trade suspended; Precautions taken; The Enem; Trt' " '''"'; ^r'"^ '' ""^^'^^ ^'-^^ «^ ^h« Enemy; Tooo ?sr;TroVKii;f^^^^^ CHAPTEK Xm. «a e of the S.ck, M,scrte of Hospitals in India, Condoct of N..ye Servants, Followers cut off, Massacre ^f a Gul »s» of Cattle ,„ consequence, A Defeat, Great loss- IWage prepared, Sad no,vs, The loss of Ghuznee, Tre t^' beveo dajV b.vouacking. Description of Houte, Narr«^ .scape of General Nott, Skirmishes too numerous to det^ H«T^s.ng att^ks, Enemy Cowards, Unsuccessful jourty,' The Return, Attack on the City, Valiant conduc of the ».ck. Bravery of the Troops, Noble conduct of an Ar" Uerv Guard, Treachery of some Native Sentinels. ' CHAPTEK XIV. "nTZ-l" ^"f"!^"' ^""^' "f "S""'-* '"' «"«"«»! A cold niffbtS rest: Our wr.U/%.v.^ :_ *!-. .. . ' " ■ ~" -"^v lu. ui« ciiji Appearance of the [i - CONTENTS. 27 >juk Pass; Je Desert; unfinished iription of lor Shah; GhuKnee tercepted r sets in ; ice of an er arms; lie of the 'he City Enemy »y; 7000 January, •antonment; The Herat Gate; Visit to the scene of death; Discorery of two well known faces amongst the dead; Susjw- don corroborated; Dost Mahomed's remarks; Good Friday of 1842; Smart battle; Awful death of three young soldiers; Disgraceful conduct of their murderers; The old shepherd; Situation of Captain Craigio's force; Killat-I-Gilzie; General England; His advance on Candahar; Route intercepted i Cowardice of Native Troops; Forced to retreat; Enemy victo- rious; Severe loss amongst the Europeans; Probablo cause of defeat; Genera England's second and successful advance; Arrival of a strong reinforcement; Abundance of news; More War; Sad news from the Upper Country; Force despatched to the relief of Killat-I-Gilzlo; Description of route; Can- dahar attacked ; Bravery of young Evans; Another victory; Active preparations for marching; Destruction of Ghrisk; General Nott proceeds up the country; General England down; Candahar is evacuated. Forlorn ndact of Guard; lormous it loss ; Treaty •'arfare; N^arrow detail ; lurney; of the rtillerv A cold of the CHAPTER XV. March towards Ghuznee; Strong force; Extensive supplies required; Difficult to procure; Major Leech, an excellent caterer; So far pretty quiet; Skirmish on the 28th August; Bravery of Lieutenant Chamberlain; Severe affray with 3rd Light Cavalry; Loss of Captain Reeves, and Quarter Master Berry; Indignation of the General; Injudicious conduct; Advice to young Officers; Awful example; Preparations for Battle; Destruction of a fortress; Three prisoners taken; March to Gowine; The enemy our constant companion; Shooms-ood-Dicn Khan, the Commander; Arrival at Gowine; The battle; Bad ground; Captain White's Light Battalion; Anderson's and Blood's Artillery; Narrow escape; Unpleasant discovery; The heat of battle; The charge; The return; The enemy proceed to Ghuznee; March across the Plain of a "Thousand Forts;" The Hazarahs, a friendly tribe; Provisions no longer procurable; Discovery of grain and forage; Doings lit Cahool : Trpnnhorir o* dhiianan. fii'«.,n4^:n.. .,i? /-1«1.,_„1 T>..1 98 CONTENTS. broken, Palmor ,„„„„,, "Jfli^.^ . kerpriL T jl^ .™.tra.n., Awful .ituation, N,„t advances- J hTi ? bor, Attack „„Gh„„,.e, Noble oo„d ctof the ,6 h Tr" MornCof 'J «tJ « T k° ""'"" '""'"g' '" 'ho dark" ^ J..og of the 6th September, .Gl„ri„„, ,i^,. g^.^^ CHAPTER XVI. uwftards Fruit; Preparations for destroying tho Citadel death,'and r^^Z^JTZ^^'^''' '''' '"^"" of. night attack. Short ^r^^X2^r'y:;:r:i ^ CHAPTER ZVII. State of the times; Detail of the unfortunate disasters at CabonI Akbar Khun; The position of the Cantonmenr W o^^^^ retinue; His career an^ hi a Embassador; His the enem; tLT- tt ™"'^''' ^'"'"'"^"S ^'^uation of T^o7:L^;^Z^^J^/^^^-^ -a disposition; Hiscon-Iuct. ThTjr^T ' ^'""''^^ Elphinstone; prospoTcanturonf '^'T'^ Their conduct; Miserable DetermLSn " . TT' '^ '''' ^"^"^^ «-«^« °^^^ting; i^etermination to stand; Overpowered; Forced to retire quioU. CONTENTS, 29 Meeting oftho Envoy and Chieft; Brigadier Sheltonj Britain's honor at stake; State of the King's Palace; Hostile corres- pondence; Proposed meeting between Akbar and the Enemy- Secret development; The meeting; Serious misgivings; The Envoy's life in danger; The seizure; Dastardly conduct of Akbar; Massacre of McNaughten, and capture of his Suite. CHAPTER XVni. The retreat; Fearful prospects; Entrance into the Passes- Treacherous attack; Awful position of the Troops; Situation oftheForce; The dastardly conduct of the Affghans; Akbar'. message to the General; Ladies and families given up as Hos tages; Elphinstone's death; Total annihilation of the Cabool Force; Dr B^^^don's escape; Brief remarks; March to Istaliff: General McCaskill's Brigade arrived; The battle; Victory- Brayery of the Troops; Fighting all over; Unfortunate deaih of Lieutenant Evans; His character; Return to Cabool; Safe ?T\t ?^ prisoners-Ladies Sale and McNaughten; A httle child brought in; Destruction of Cabool ; March through he Passes; Evacuation of Affghanistan; Awful sight in the Defiles; Road strewed with Skeletons; Their appearance, Descnpuon of Route; Enemy hover about; Admirable precau- aT^ ^^ c"'^^^'' Arrival at Tezeen; Jugdulluk; Grand 7 n I J^^/^'""^"^^ Gates; Beautiful valley of Nimla; JeUallabad; Its appearance and destruction. CHAPTER XIX. March through the Khiva Pass; Dhakkah; Destruction of Ah Musjid; March to Jemrood; Almost tlie last shot wounds Lieut. Chamberlain; Favorable prospect; Arrival at Peshawar; Our backs turned to the mountains; General Avitabilo; March through the Punjaub; Description of coun- try; Ferozeporo; Triumphal arch; Lord Ellenborough's Army 64,0U0men; Conjunction of Troops; Christmas Day of 1842.' Shere Singh; Grand parade: Imposing sight; The Durbar- 30 CONTENTS. Breaking up of the Army; General Nolt appointed Resident at the Court of the King of Oude; His parting with his brethren in arms ; The Troops separate. CHAPTER XX Arrival of Stack'sBrigadeinScinde; Sukkur; State of the coun- try; LesUe's Troop of Horse Artillery; Prospects of an.Hher campaign; Sir Charles Napier and the Governor General; Sir CharlesatHydrabadwith2500men; Battle of Mennee; Vict(.ry over 16,000; More War; Stack's Force ordered to Hydrabad; State of Scinde; Some account of its origin and people- Major Outram and the Government; Attack on his residence Noble conduct of the Light Company of the 22d Regiment; The Ameers; Their positions, conduct, and surrender; Ap- proach to Khyrpore; Meer Ali Morad; Sir Charles Napier; Meer Shere Mahomed determined on another battle; His position at Dubba; Enemy muster 24,000; Major Stack en route; His arrival at Hydrabad; The 22nd Regiment; The Emaum Ghur Detachment; Conjunction of Stack's force; 24th March, 1843; Battle of Dubba; Victory gained; State of the Fortress; Prize taken; Departure of the 41st from Kurrachie for England ; Departure of the 22nd for Bombay ; Their recep- tion; Arrival of the 28th from Australia; Sickness amongst Troops; Sufferings of the 78th Highlanders, and 28th Regt.; Awful ravages of the fever and cholera; Dreadful state of Troops in consequence; Scinde established as a Presidency; Sir Charles Napier appointed Governor; A narrow escape;' My arrival at Kurrachie; Hazardous voyage to Bombay; For- tunate again; Remarks on Captain A. A. Nelson, 40th; Mr. Smith; Mr. Harvey; Embarkation for England; Safe arrival* in my native land; Ccnnl^ding remarks. Resident with his ie coun- an other ral; Sir Victory drabad; people; isidence s^iment; r; Ap- STapier; e; His Stack t; The »; 24th * of the prachie rccep- nongs'c Kegt.; ;ate of Jency; scape; ; For- ; Mr. rrival SCENKS IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE. '1i INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. ^^'^^f^^^^^/^^V^r^^^V^^WM^K^^a At the request of numerous friends who have taken a lively interest in my welfare, and as I can- not but appreciate their kindness, I will endeavor to give a few of the very many ups and downs in a Soldier's Life, and, as far as my humble talent will admit, demonstrate the characteristic features thereof, with a view to stimulate the soldier's feel- ings, in pointing out to him how clearly British honor and courage are developed, and how much more honorable a position it is to serve in an army than is generally conceived by those unacquainted with it; to illustrate, by simple description, the precarious situations the soldier is prone to; the praiseworthy fortitude with which he combats them; and t^~ unremitting vigour so universally displayed amo c troops, in all ranks, owing to the nobility oi * icipline, and the much-ad- mired steadiness aua bravery consequent thereon. The various climes in which a soldier, during his career, is obliged to serve, if he be a thinking man, give him an opportunity of contrasting and improv- ing his earlier instructions ; travel teaches him to study men and manners, and is calculated in itself to convey much nrariical knowlpriirft. nnt nfhArwiaa c 84 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. I; 5 M'i to be obtained. The offices he may have to per- form, the difficulties he has to contend with, the glories held ont to lum, the self-denial, the toils of t .0 held, and the pleasures of peace, coupled with the ultimate bright prospect now before the descrv- 'ngsoMier, are all stimulants calculated to raise our army to a pitch that will outvie the world for its ability and respectability; and the soldier will be ooked np to and acknowledged as the instrument by which the glory and protection of our country is so gallantly upheld. It is with this view, to point out the vicissitudes consequent upon the safe keep- ing of Britain's honor, that I am induced to devel- ope the trials and privations suffered by these in- struments. Having been a participator in most of those disas- trous events, so fresh in the memory of my readers as those of Scinde, Beeloochistan, and Affghanistan' during 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841,' 1842, and S' and during the whole time kept a daily Journal' composed of many thrilling circamstances, consi- dered, perhaps, by many, as too trivial for the pub- lic mind, but being connected with the murders as- sassinations, treacheries, &c. &c., of individuals whose near and dear friends, no doubt, are to this day unacquainted with the particulars of them— and as there must be many thousands of such friends, ihey will, periiaps, prove doubly interesting to them as also to the reader geuerally ; and if the brief and simple statement of these facts, from n^r- INTkODUCTORY CHAPTER. 35 sohal observation, will thus tend to aid the Hame, and at the same time give any satisfaction to my friends, I am willing to do my utmost; trusting ' never to be considered as unworthy of their kind- feeling, I shall, in a few chapters, arrange so as to give a plain narration of the principal and most interesting events; and give in them some inci- dents that will, no doubt, induce tl e memory to reflect on their miseries and results — not tbrgetting the murder of Captain Hand, the burning to death of three British Officers, description of the Indus, Hydrabad, Sukher, Dadur, the much-talked-of Passes, the Bolun, Gundavie, Mysore, Kojuk, Te- zeen, Jugdulluk, Gundamuck, Jellalabad, Khiva, Peshawa, the Punjaub ; also, the battles at Dadur, Kunda, Candahar, Baba Walla, Killa Shuk, Kil- lat I Gilzie, Go wine, Ghuznee, Midan, Cabool, Istaliff, Jellalabad, Ali Musjid, Meeanee, and Hy- drabad ; the principal operations of Generals Brooks, Keane, Wiltshire, Sale, Nott, Pollock, McCaskill, England, and C. Napier; the army under Lord Ellenborough; the massacre of the Cabool Army, Sir W. McNaughton, Sir A. Bums ; the prisoners under Shooms ood Dien Khan, and his cousin, Akbar Khan ; Ladies Sale and Mc- Naughton ; the King of Cabool, and the Ameers of Scinde. It is not my intention to enter into any length- ened history of the country, further than will be necessary for the iutroductiou of matters so ma- aa Li INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. terially connected with this narrative as to require such detaii because, were I to do so, it wtld tavo of 1000-but my sole object is to giv>B my kind readers a soldier's simple story, and in such I anner as wUI enable them to see their way ear y-a„d if they will but weigh well such Z cumstances, they will at once discover my object I would also beg to remind my reader, thafin £ »y.ng oyer, the details of 1839, with Sir John - Keanc, is simply because the campaign under him has already ui.dcrgone such a series of description and wou therefore be a mere superfluous s 2: and would hinder the introduction of other incil dents wh.d> have before never appeared in print We find Lieutenant Kyre's_Dr. Atkinson's-Lady Sale s and <rfhers, giving a very clear account of tha^ campaign ; but as I was connected with (hat army and a great portion of my primaiy occurrenceTafc' bong.ng thereto,! shall have often to revert t" them For instance, Lieutenant Eyre gives a description of the recapture of Ghuznee, by Shooms ood Dien Khan, and of the prisoners at that Z as well as at Cabool; and annexes Lieutenan Crawford's own description. Now when we agZ capt-ed Ghuznee in 1842, amongst otherreTa" ch s I discovered in the pnsoners' room, letters wntten on the wall by the Prisoners, which I cop ed mi m themselves go far to shew their feelings, while thus conhned; and in fact nearly every eircum^tance INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 37 which he leaves a mystery I have found opportu- nity of discovering, and feel proud of being able to corroborate his work. It is of course impos- sible for one individual to be able to relate all the events of so extensive an affair as the cam- paigns of tliis country, and in common with every day life, the oftcner a thing is gone over the more can be added ; having been therefore one of the last to go over the ground, I have endeavoured to bring up the rear, leaving as little behind as pos- sible. I would strongly recommend my readers, should they be anxious for a comparative reference, or a companion to the story — to get Eyre's Opera- tions at Cabool, and as I propose making this the same size, to form one. I shall, however, in order not- withstanding, place this before my reader, trusting my efforts will not be miscalculated. Of a vast region like Asia, much has yet to be learned ; and I must confess, that in my opinion, much more war will accrue, and that ere long, another, and I fear, far more serious affair it will be than before, although the loss of souls on our side, during the whole affair, must have been nearly 100,000. I would revert to the subject of Colonel Stoddart and Captain Con- nelly, but Dr. Wolff appears to give a very clear account of his expedition ; yet nevertheless, one fact is certain, that there are at this moment, many of our countrymen in Affghanistan ; numbers were missing, and they being yet unaccounted for must leave it a mystery, as to what is their fate, in I INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. our late victories of Aliwal, Sobraon, &c. We have rafr?.. '^""•»P««''« l-elng discovered in the ranlcs of the enemy ; the thought makes one recoil, but let us not be too hasty, and as is too often the case, judge the thing iUiberaUy-Could they escape ? -^ One instance I know, a man named Howcl, on Uw capture of Hydmbad by Sir C. Napier, was dis- covered directing the enemy's guns on us: he was taken and imprisoned. He said that they held a drawn sword over him, to strike him dowi If he did no direct the shot, and that he aimed in- directly, till he could get a chance to escape Whether this is to be believed or not I cannot deter- mine,- but I must admit, that I cannot think that such baseness, such cold-blooded treMhory, exists in the breast of a Briton; I think it must be cir- cumstances that alter these, as well as many other cases ; however, I merely introduce this to point out the uncertamty of the fate of many of our troops even to th,s day. I shall also revert to the Som- nauth Gates more fully than has yet been done,- Ihe recal of Lord Ellenborougl, from the Governor- Generalship of India, still remains unfolded, al- though many surmises arc ailoat, and as the conduct of a man IS the true index to his character, we may better judge by that than any other. It will be remembered, the Proclamation relaUve to the evacuation of Affirbanistan !.!= o==„.,.i.i Of an immense army of reserve, upwards of 64,000 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 39 men, with its attendant staff, including him- self-^'iis directions relative to the prisoners, ami his great cxpenditTirc of the public funds, the Somnauth Gates — their history, — and in fact imih merable other circumstances, all tend to enlighten us, leaving us, as the old saying goes, to judge for ourselves. The operations in Scinde being also uijder his guidance, and call down much serious reflection, and more particularly because it was, after all this, he was so suddenly called home by the Directors of the East India Company, who did not even give a public reason for it, but called a meeting, and with scarcely one dissenting voice, directed his im'- mediate removal from the seat of Govemmeut in India. I shall conclude these few remarks, with a hope that I shall be successful in my attempt in the re- lation of a soldier's simple Tale, In order to prepare my readers to enter a counr try which previous to the time of these campaigns, was almost unknown, or at least, was seldom heard of or alluded to, and as it will occur that names of Individuals and places, during the narrative, will be introduced, it will be read with infinitely more pleasure to know something of them. Affghanistan is an extensive Territory in Central Asia, bordered by Hindoostan on the east, on the south hy the Fersiau Gulf, ou the west by exteiir sive Deserts, and on the north, by the Causacus ; V 40 \u it .i INTRODUCTORV CHAPTEE. mountams; in fact, gencrallymountaineous Ihronffh- out the principal part of the country. The popn- lahon IS nearly fifteen nullions, consisting chiefly of Affghans, Beeloochees, Tartars, Hazarahs, Farias, and other Indian castes, the former being theereat- • est, amounting to nearly two-thirds. The lower country Scinde and Beeloochistan, is flat and fertile, but as It progresses towards Afl'ghanistan, becomes thionged with Mountains, Passes wild and desolate; but although so overspread with barrenness, from the immensity of their regions, the valleys which innumerably intersect the country, are rich with productions <Jf grain and other vegetation. The do ted plains of the Dooranee Empire, are crowded with orchards,-trees having the richest fruit,-the apple, peach, pl„m, grapes, of every possible fla- vour and delicacy; large trees are almost unknown m Affghams an; nothing but the small vine, and bushwood, with here and there, a short timber can be obtained, it is owing to the want of which that domed* ' "''' "'"''"^ flat-roofed, or otherwise The people are fine, tall, powerful, and in a great measm^ handsome; the women are particularly fair, and approach the European feature; they are always covered from head to foot whenever they move abroad, and generally wear white. The chil- dren are usually very fair, and the males are schooled «p to warfare. Thpir r.r!n„;„i »r-. ,- i*'"'-'F"==»n;iaanommeaanoi the Soonee race, believing themselves the rightful ut i rnniiW i i mi pi INTRODUCTOKY CHAPTER. 41 successors of the three first caliphs ; but their oppo- nents, the Sheahs coundu Ali, the prophet's lawful successor, they being divided into tribes to which is born a chief. The continual hostility, reigning from this hereditary feeling, is productive of much discomfort and struggle for power. They are par- ticularly tenacious, and ambitious, filled with pomp and pride ; and thirst for position at any cost. Nadir Shah is the first we find to have borne any very figurative part in this country worthy of note, that is to say, which more immediately connects it to this tale. Although Baber Shah, at an early period, on taking possession of the Empire, lavished great wealth in fortifying the mountains round Cabool, for its protection, and which still exist. From that time up to that of Nadir Shah, about 1728, matters were extravagantly kept up in warfare, the people ever raging and unsettled, and were called Abdaulees, whom he succeeded in bringing into a greater state of tranquillity ; they were then tributary to the Persians. Nadir Shah died about 1740, when one Ahmed Shah, head of one of the old Tribes, took the reins of government, and was crowned at Candahar. He was filled with superstition, and notions of predes- tination ; nay so far did he rely upon his fancy that after a dream of a favoured saint, he changed the name of his tribe from Abdaulees to Dooranees ; hence the Empire of that name. i i 42 lli INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. The Dooranee will be better known to my read- ers when it is remembered that it became an order and was extensively and liberally distributed amongst our officers and officials during the first campaign The Dooranecs were divided into nine sects, and were called Populzie, (their head,) and from whence issued all the royalty. The Alleko- zee and Barukzye ; the latter had for its chief Dost Mahomed Khan, and were extremely powerful. Next the Atchikzyes and the Noorzyee, also very nu. merous and influential. The Alizee, Iskhaukzyee, Khongaunee and Maukoo, tribes of somewhat infe- rior race, but nevertheless of the aristocracy Ah- med Shah having been crowned king, adopted the Person mode of ruling. He was a fine enterprising youth of about twenty-three, and was well skilled in aterature; hisdelightseemed to be inamilitary occu- pation and he had several brilliant encounters with ine bikhs. The enormous extent of his dominions, gave him great scope for practice, and it appears to have been his continual toil to put down tumult and war amongst the tribes, which, however, he ill succeeded in, owing to their universal hatred to their numerous and opponent tribes. No sooner one tumult quelled, than another would rise. He died m 1773 or 1774, and was succeeded by his son, limor Shah, who was bom about 1746, and who bore a character of being incapable of governing the country, owing to indolenrp • ^uA iht. «,„„ ...I INTRODU«"TORY CHAPTER. 43 proved by the insurrection in Balkh, Khorassan, (tho famous place for steel,) Kashmere, &c. &c., which Ahmed Shah had succeeded in conquering before. Timor marched, in 1789, against the king of Bokhara, Shah Morad, with 100,000 men, with a vie\^ to overthrow him, which, however, ter- minated amicably ; in 1793 he was attacked with sickness, and died at Cabool. His demise cre- ated much confusion amongst his family as to the kingdom, but Shah 7cman succeeded him, and reigned about seven years; he was cruelly blinded by his half-brother. Shah Mahmood, who deposed him, and assumed the government, by the aid of an influential and popular chief of the Barukzyees, named Futteh Ali Khan. This latter chief played a very active part in the drama of those days. He was notorious as a deceiver, and disloyal. His conduct may be better judged than described by the perusal of the works of Masson and Elphinstone. His name brings us to the more familiar part of the country's histcMry, and will tend to develope the incorrigibility of the Chief. Shah Shooja-ool-Moolk, who, after the dethronement of Shah Zeman, being the full brother, was the right- ful heir, and consequently, spite of the Proclama^- tion of the usurped monarchy of Shah Mahmood, and his agent. Chief Futteh Ali Khan, marched with a strong force from Peshawar upon Cabool, but was overthrown by the Chief, and fled to the hills ; u I I INTRODUCTORY CUAPTfiR. but not satisfied witli this overthrow, he made two or three otiicr attempts, equally unsuccessful ; but at length obtained a victory in 1802, when he de- throned and confined Mahmood. After havin- gained the Turban or Throne, his first object was to secure the rebel Chief or Futteh Khan, who ..'?', Innco Kamran, the eldest son of the detVc usurper, had repaired down to Kandahar, and with a strong force held possession of it. Shah Shooja was also successful in this afl-air, and the Chief would have made terms, and did ofi^er alle- giance to Shooja, which was, however, neremptorily refused, and he retired to Chrisk ; being enraged and disgusted at his bad success, he commenced an intrigue, and his first attempt was to gain Candahar. Ahmed Shah had at this time been appointed by Shah Shooja, Governor of Candahar, and Futteh Khan succeeded in persuading Prince Kyser, a son of Zeman Shah, to seize the Governor and cast him !f1^I'T»' '\ '^'t''' ^^""^'^^" ^^"»^ ^Wointing him (Futteh Khan) as Grand Wuzeer, which was done and they immediately marched against Cabool ; but during their route, Ahmed was released and rein- stated at Candahar. The Prince and Futteh were defeated, and Ahmed gave up Candahar alter his release, to Prince Kam- ran; the young Prince Kyser after his defeat, find- ing himself outdone at Candahar, surrendered to fehah Shooja, who beinar ever distimyiikiioH f^^ i»-. Charitableness and liberality of feeling, forgave the INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER, 45 young man. Futteh Khan now made oflf to Herat, and commenced an agitation there, and concluded by persuading Haji Ferooz, a brother of Shah Shooja, to assert his right to the kingdom ; but the latter, receiving intimation of the matter, sent a force to stop its progress, and succeeded ; with this tliird overthrow Futteh Khan again retired to his home. The young Prince Kyser, who now began to see clearly the treacherous disposition of his former adviser, Futteh, and with a view to shew his loyalty and repentance, and at the same time perform a service to the King, in return for his kindness, managed to seize the Chief, and would have put him to death, but that Futteh Khan, who is described to be a man of insinuating ways, proved, by his turn- ing the wrath of this youth, who was about assign- ing him to Shah Shooja, or rather to death, actually succeeded not only in persuading the Prince to spare his life, but to commence a fresh attack on his benefactor. Shah Shooja. He was released, and entered into almost immediate arrangements for carrying his plans into execution ; but having lost sight of the Prince for a short time, next found him in the hands of one Kojeh Mahomed Khan, a Chief of great power, who dissu;ided him from the plot, and Futteh, finding that his plans were thus thwarted, charged the young Prince with treachery and sedi- tion, and offered to deliver up t^andahar to Prince Kamran. Prince Kyser was about to take refuge in the hills; but met, by appointment, Futteh m 46 INTfiODUCTORY CHAPTEB. t Sil '. Khan, at night, and great were the arguments ad- duced on both sides, being men of vile dispositions; it however terminated in that of Futteh, exacting an oath from the Prince, to follow his plans under any and every circumstance, and the following day they proceeded to attack Kamran. Futteh Khan, here again acting the double traitor, led on the van, but privately advised Kamran to retire, saying that he was merely entangling the young Prince Kyser • but he found himself set at defiance by Kamran' who determined on risking the result of the field' which was in this case against him, Futteh gaining a complete victory over him. Shah Shooja, the King, not remaining as quiet at Cabool as may have been all this time surmised had gained by fight Cashmere, and Kojeh Ma^ homed, whose loyalty was very great, and whose influence over the chiefs and people even more so managed to remove the easily led youth, Kyser' from the advice of Futteh Khan, who made off to Ghrisk, where he again renewed his wily, cunning influence over Kamran, who was foolish enough to be led by him, spite of his proved hypocrisy, and desertion in a former case. They, in conjunction, went against Prince Kyser, and drove him to Beeloochistan. Shah Shooja, finding these things going on, headed a large force and proceeded to Candahar, defeating Prince Kamran, who fled, and Futteh Khan, who managed to insinuate himself, and jomea im oiiati. INTKODUCTORY CHAFTEli. 47 About 1808, Mahmood Shah, who, it has been stated, \was dethroned and imprisoned, managed to escape, and with the Grand Wuzeer of the Shah, raised an insurrection, and was joined by Prince Kyser ; they made an attempt on Cabool ; but the Shah manfully opposed and conquered them, and be- headed the Wuzeer who led them on. Shah Shooja, up to this time, was in every place successful; but in 1809 Futteh Khan, seeing an opportunity, while in the Shah's service, of privately exciting several influential Chiefs, and completely overthrew Shah Shooja, who was necessitated from fear of assassination to take refuge in the Mountain Passes, and ultimately threw himself on the protection of our ally,Runjeet Singh, the Maha Rajah of the Pun- jaub, but afterwards made several attempts to rein- state himself, unsuccessfully. Runjeet Singh, from some private feeling hitherto kept close, threw the Shah into prison, and treated him most shamefully, using every means in his power to render his life miserable. It was well known by the Rajah, that Shah Shooja had possession of many costly jewels, and one more particularly known as the ** Moun- tain of Light," which the Shah had secreted, and which he most determinedly refused to give up, and after a long incarceration effected an escape, and Went to the British dominions at Lodiona, for pro- tection. Cabool, after his defeat, was ruled by Futteh Khan, under the sanction of Shah Mahmood, who 48 INTBODUCTORY CHAll'ER. 1 it. treacherously possessed himself of Herat, and re- pulsed the Persians, who demanded tribute, in the name of their Kuler. Mahmood reigned for some seven or eight years, and, owing to circumstance of state, blinded Futteh Khan, who was a short time afterwards cut to pieces; some assert it was owing to his having ad- vised Dost Mahomed to dishonor the sacred rights of the Zenana or Ilarcm of women, in the viola- tion of no other than Mahmood's daughter,— and thus ended the career of one of the most arrant, remarkable characters, that ever reigned in Asia, who would turn with any body to attain power or command—a man, who alas I stands not alone for perfidy and treachery, for we see it developed in almost every nation. His brother. Dost Mahomed Khan, after the death of Futteh, became King of Cabool and Shuruk, and was much admired for his knowledge and manner. Kamran took possession of Herat. Candahar, once the seat of the Affghan Government, now became low in its power, and after passing from hand to hand, fell at last to be the depot for the Governor- ship of a Sirdar or secondary Chief. ^ The vast Empire of Central Asia was now much disordered, of which all the neighboring rulers took advantage, and crept in and secured considerable additions to their own territories, Runjeet Singh, the Ameers of Scinde, not the least. JLB xiw« Mvoii, iui a uuusiuuiciuie lime, a maiier oi INTRODUCTORY CHAPTBU. 49 discussion amongst the Indian authorities, as to the best mode of preventing a rumoured invasion of the Russians, vtd Herat, on India, who, it was said, were fast gaining power over the Affghans; even as early as 1809, it was suspected that Na- poleon was negociating with them to pass through Affghanistan, and possess themselves of India ; and in 1836, Burns was sent as an Ambassador to the Court, to feel the way, but retired, with a fearful development of the fact that there was a great want of stability on the part of the Dost towards us. A treaty of friendship had long existed be- tween us and that Nation, but in 1837 things bore a curious appearance, from the fact that the Persians had gained possession of Herat, which established treachery on the part of the Dost, and gave us room to act our part. The first thing concluded' necessary to be done, was that of removing Dost Mahomed from the possibility of being influenced by either party, and the Dost declared that be would stand by the British, provided they would prevent Runjeet Singh from making attempts or encroaching on his power, Runjeet already having taken Peshawar; if not, that he would offer the same terms to Persia. Runjeet Singh was our ally, and the existing relationship between him and us, remov- ed the possibility of acceding, and the matter would be still worse if the Dost was permitted to throw him- self on Persia for protection ; and therefore the only course left for us was to dethrone him, and reinstate D 50 INTTIODUCTORY CHAPTER. Shah Shooja, with the two-fohl object of gainujg poa- session of Central Asia, and securing an influential power over I'ersia. The remainder haa yet to be told. A large force was raised for the purimse, and Sir John Kcanc took command, with Generals Sir W. Cotton, Fane, and others, the upshot of which was the surrender of the Dost, the capture of Ghuznee, and the dreadful catastrophe, too well known, of the destruction of an immense force, by treachery ; the assassination of the envoy, Sir William McNaugh- ton, and the massacre of Sir A. Burnes and ids suite; and ultimately, by the murder of the reinstated monarch. Shah Shooja, leaving the country desolate and miserable, and teaching us a bitter lesson. The principal features of the difficulties experienced, will be seen in the various chapters of thi« simple tale, and it now remains for me to express what came more particularly under my notice, and I trust the humble endeavours will be met in the view they are intended. I claim no right to become an historian : my attempt is not at that : but simply to connect in a tale, the events, in one thread, and place in the hands of my readers a period of seven years, that was filled with a continued series of events, which were overwhelmed by every tact of treachery, cruelty, and villainy— 4eft, as our unfortunate countrymen were, in a region almost unknown to them, and open to the perfidy,, conspi- racy, a«(i biOodmirstiiiess of an aiuiotit innumerable INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 51 foe. Let my readers, ere they venture an opinion, weigh well the matter, and place themselves in the unfortunate position of those whose lives arc devoted to their protection, and who scruple not to relin- quish every hope of worldly happiness, to secure and uphold the necessary means of ensuring their safety. SCENES in' A SOLDIER'S LIFE. I CHAPTER I. War in Central Asia; Army under Sir John Keane; Her Ma- jesty's Ship Wellesley; Embarkation of H. M. 40th Begiment for Kurrachie ; Brig Hannah, with the Bombay Artillery; Arrival at Minora, mouth of the Indus; Fortification of Minora; A Summons to Surrender; I'he Flag of Truce; Preparations for Battle; Disembarkation of the Troops; Admi- ral Maitland and Colonel Valiant; Ascent of the Troops up the Mountains; Evacuation of the Fortress by the Enemy; Kurra- chie, its environs ; Traffic; Native Government; Food soon supplied; Markets; Difference of Camp and Quarters; Mise- ries of the latter; Troops visited by Cholera; Awful ravages of Disease; Unremitting attention of Surgeon M'Andrevr; Scinde and its People; United Hostility against the British ; Faqueers or Native Priests ; their power over the people; their mode of living; Harrassing Route from Minora to Km/achie; Precarious situation ; Development of British perseverance. At the commencement of the war in Central Asia, an army was formed near to Bombay, the command of which was entrusted to Lieutenant-General Sir John Keane, afterwards Lord Keane. whose death, dm'ing the period that a second campaign was in full rage, has deprived his country of an able Gen- eral, a faithful subject, and a zealous servant. PI' : I I Iff \:i'< 54 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. The object of this armament was to place Shah J^hooja-Qol-Moolk upon the throne of Cabool to which he was said to be the legitimate heir. ' To effect this, it was first necessary to obtain possession of Kurrachie, the key to Scinde, it being situated at the mouth of the Indus, whither Her Majesty's Ship Wellesley, commanded byAdmi- ral Maitland, whose instructions were " to go to Kurrachie and take it," was ordered to proceed, calling first at Port Mandavie to take on board Her Majesty's 40th Regiment, which a few days pre- viously had received orders to march from its quar- ters at Deesa', to that place, and to await the arrival of the noble vessel which was destined to convey tliem to the rendezvous at the mouth of the Indus. Ihe utmost dispatch was observed, the regiment arrived at Mandavie, and immediately after came the Wellesley; they were embarked, and within a few hours she again put to sea, with th« regiment on board, and sailed for Kun-achie, attended by the H h. I C. brig Hannah, bearing the 3rd Companv of the first Battalion of Artillery, together with a nu- merous train of natives, servants and camp-followers On the 4th of February, 1839, these two vessels arrived at, and anchored near to the fortress of Minora, being the chief fortification at Kurrachie and commanding the entrance to the Scinde Coun- try, by means of the noble Indus. Minora is a strong fortification. sitimtArl nn ih^ extreme point of a chain of mountains facing the sea, and is capable, from its commanding situation. SCENES IN A SOLDIEE'S LIFE. 55 of effectually preventing any vessel from approach- ing the mouth of the harbour. It is strongly built of stone, and presents a terriiSc front in three di- rections, covering also on the fourth a safe retreat, and affording, from its great height, an extensive view of the whole country, which effectually pre- serves it from any landward surprise. A summons to surrender to the British Flag was the first step taken on the arrival of the armament before this fortress, and Capt. Gray of the 40th Re- giment, was sent with a flag of truce to demand its submission. The overture was rejected; the boat with Capt. Gray on board returned to the ship. The offi- cer commanding the British forces then sent to warn them that he would allow them one hour to consider their refusal. All on board was hurry and bustle ; there w^as much anxiety to learn the result ; the propositions foi' landing were expected ; all the boats were prepared for the instant disembarkation of the troops •, every man was in readiness, arms in hand, and every one anticipated a fierce and fearful conflict ; the difficulty of overcoming the situ- ation of the fort, great as it was, could be contem- plated, but none knew the state of the garrison. The British Force, {. e. the Military, did not exceed 1200 men. The Military portion of the forces was under Colonel Valiant, and the Naval under Admi- i-al Maitland. A TT^^m* Chin |-ki*kl-|l« ^-vt ** *Ti-«r-» y-vii /^ r^ M-m n w\ r\ -m^ i-* j^ o «^ < 1 .^'«'r./-k««w man at his post, orders were given to open a fire 56 SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE. apon the fortress; he gnns were well and rapidly »eryed, and under the cover of the cannonading the ^Wiers got into the boats, rowed towardf the .ho« and effected a landing without accident or ZiZi '^ "'"' immediately drawn up in col- umn of companies, and set forward to aaccnd the rS'^h *u """'' '■"^"•"•'"^ circumstances ■iT^ . ^r '""''' "'"" themselves. On attain- ng the platform on which the fort stands, and when forming into order of attack, it was perceived that the enemy had evacuated the fortress, but whether from fear of meeting the European soldiers hand to hand or m consequence of the destructive fire from the shipping, it is impossible to decide Itwas a great satisfaction to find that we had obtained possession of such a strong fortress with- t any sacrifice of human life, for the beauty of pod generalship is to effect a victory with as little loss as possible. The Wellesley had expended about seven hundred and thirty 36-pounders, a Mornsomc mode of administering such large pi Is, which the defenders must have found anything bu agreeable, and so preferred the adage of « Livins to fight another day," which they fully kept after! wards. ^ Kurrachie is situated about two and a half miles from the outpost of Minora; the town is irregularly bmit, and the streets nanow ; the houses are of mud, and the general aDDearanra nf th^ „i„.. .-. miserable and filthy. The suburbs are'somewhat SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. 57 more pleasant, having a few gardens, which arc, however, much disfigured by the surrounding filth, and the accumulation of the dead bodies of camels, dogs, cats, &c. The town contains about two or three thousand houses or hovels, and has two ba- zaars or market places. Its general traffic is tan- ning leather and selling fish ; and it is the emporium of trade for a large portion of the interior of the country. On entering the town, which surrendered on our approach, we found it to contain little of any value. The natives of Kurrachie, although not of extra- ordinary stature, have yet a very austere and re- served appearance : some among them are excellent workmen, when judged by the Eastern standard of excellence, and are, speaking generally, a very stirring people : they have a great number of large boats, called " Patamas" or " Bugalows," which somewhat resemble our wherries, or rather the Chinese junks, in which they carry on an extensive trade with India and Muscat, in indigo, cotton, and other articles, which are brought hither, from the interior of Sclnde, for exportation. Leather j fish, grapes, mangoes, &c., arc great objects of traflic, which are exchanged for food, clothing, &c. Many of these boats are armed for their protection at sea : they are built of teak or very hard wood produced in the East, and are somewhat like the Chinese junk ; the sail is formed, like ours, of a number of seams, but their cloths seldom exceed 58 SCENKS IN A SOLDlKJi's UFE, iri IP 8« or eight liichcs in breadtL, and arc of cotto... Iwo, three or «elclo.n ,n«rc than four, manage a Jargc boat, and ],ave a curions mode of «ittimr down to work the vessel; in fact the greater po.^ tion of the work d.mc by the natives of the East, >s seated; and without compass or chronometer thev navigate thciu both fearlessly and expertly It is governed by a Oiiief, called a .(en.edar, who rtiecives a tithe on every camel load of goods which may^be bronghtto the harbour for ex,,ortation, and he Ameers ol Scinde (of whom more hereafter call urn to a cose reckoning of the revenue thus col- lected. I Fish is very plentifid-somc beii>g very larsre • tUey have tbe turbot and soles, lobrters, oysters' crabs, cockles, muscles, and eels ; and / rock salmon, very line, plentiful, and cheap. On our first arrival the natives, probably from fear, shunned us altogether, but, as they are great few days began to venture into our camp, and, find- ing that the Ferringees (|.:uropeaus) were not quite such fearful ogres as they had anticiimted, began to bring in their milk, fruit and Hsh, for .sale. A„!mpl: supply ol tresh provisions was a desideratum to the Army; and as the natives found themselves fairly dealt with, our markets daily became more extended, and the increased supply reducing the price, the demand also increased, to the great satisfaction of all narti^, 11 lias oneu been a subject of surprise to me to see SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. d9 how soon natives of other nations adhere to our systems, that is to say, as far as dealing with you, and will waive many circumstances to win you ; they, amongst themselves, deal most unfairly, and seem to delight in fraud. It will naturally be supposed that the transition from a comfortable barrack to an encampment would be greatly felt by the liluropcans, when thus sudden- ly removed from all the cleanliness of an airy, well ventilated barrack, excellent bedding, and proper nourishing food, to the cold, damp, and ill-regulated accommodation of a tent, which, containing about fourteen square feet, is expected, and indeed does, ac- commodate sixteen soldiers, allowing about twenty- one inclujs in breadth to each for all his domes*- tic purposes. This great change in the soldier's habits, added to the trying effects of the weather, the extra exertion, and, as is too often the case, the deficient supply of food, both as regards quantity and quality, tviuds in no trifling degree to induce disease, and I am sorry to say in our case, no exception to the grand rule could be found. Early in March the cholera visited Kurrachie and its vicinity, and it caused a vast mortality among the Europeans, There is something truly appalling in this terrific and voracious disease. Even now you may be speaking and jesting with a dear friend and an esteemed comrade, and within an hour he may be «l.„__x J. a J T — j.v_ i?„n J? J i— _ aiuiusi uurU^siiguicu uy luu luu uibUcicu, uuu in a mmmmm m f ty IB ' N if'r"- SCENES IM A SOLMEB'8 LIFE. few Tsore short hours, all that is mortal of him will Iwve been consigned to the grave weiTaraXitn^rxi^r^' =»ent, laboured most unremitt nl f„fls !«; mghts conseeutively has he often' L't "a « Elbe If;/' T "°"""«^ ^"'"'='> ^^^iled to itss and IS .kP'"«"*- ""' '" 'h" -no^t fear- less and prawcvvorthy manner, constantly cxnosed h^ .own life to contagion and risk, as well as £ fatigue aud exertion he underwent to sa^ he Ll nval before KuiTachie, that the town was full nf the enemy's forces, but finding that the Europ in felUh air /' ""^ '^'"'^''' '«*'-'«'l before they leu the awkwardness of being driven back nr Z other words, they fairly ran a;ay. ' "' '" Scmde is inhabited by many tribes, each being SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 61 at enmity with the other, maintaining themselyea by plundering one another, and never happy but when engaged in those internal hostilities, and, like the ancient Britons, only uniting against a common enemy. Such being their state of policy it is no great stretch of vanity to say we found ourselves selected by them as an enemy worthy of their con- federating together to work our overthrow. Oar arms were chiefly conciliation and forbearance, but as we severally obtained the friendship of some rival tribe, we aroused the outpouring wrath of another. These angry feelings were fermented and nourished by the Faqueers, of which class there are one or more in every tribe ; this man ofholineas^ they believe, can protect them from danger and misfortune ; he is their priest, he prays for them he interferes in their quarrels, and he possesses an extraordinary influence over them, both for good and evil, being supposed to be especially under the guardian care of Vishnoo, the Preserver. The Faqueers are a set of miserable and disgusting wretches, scarcely human in appearance, and obtain a vast influence over the ignorant multitude from their ascetic devotions, and the self-torturing vows which they impose upon themselves ; the wild beasts are said to respect them ; it may be so, but I should rather be inclined to suspect they have no stomach to make a meal upon any thing half so loathsome. 62 '■S.;» SCK-NES IN A SOLDIEIt'S LIFE. Many of tliesfi wretched specimens of degraded humanity were so embittered against the Europeans that they considered that they were doing the conn- try and their Bett^j a service, if they could pro- cure by any means, and at any cost, the massacre of an European. Those wretches are to be seen in every part of the East ; even the most affluent make much of them ; being buoyed up ivith idohitry and super- stition, they arc in a great measure kept under by them, and it would be tantamount to a curse of fate to scruple to i-elicve them. I have seen them m all the most disgusting forms possible ; they look hideous, and, in fact, are barely human, being to a Christian, the most detestable of all other objects. The advance from Minora to Kurrachie, though now often a subject of merriment to the parties con- cerned, was a tedious and harrassing march to the soldier : having advanced as far up the river in the l)oats as was available, wc entered a little creek, and rowed until the boats were aground, owing to the shallowness of the water : we had stfll a con- siderate distance to march ere we could arrive at the road,-^no not road, track—which led to our des- tined object. No difficulty must daunt a soldiery tko obstacle must prevent his onward progress if there be the most remote prospect of success. And therefore, thus stranded in the middle of a swamp we had no alternative but to attemptto wade through SCENES IN A SOLDI lilt S LlFlS. ^ the saturated mud. Each step in advance occupied several seconds, and the mud, which was black and soft, aftbrding no resistance to our weight, at every step we sank two or three feet deep into the hot- rible mass. It must also be remembered that every man was encumbered with a musket, accouti'ements, and a pouch containing jibout five pounds of am- munition, on the preservation of which depended his hopes of success and safety ; this unpleasant march of one mile and a half occupied nearly nine hours, which, extraordinary as it may seem, will not be apocryphal when it is stated that they crawled along in this quagmire very much in the same style that a ^y jprof]resses in a jar of molasses : some fell at every other step, others actually stuck fast for many minutes at a time ; some were in imminent danger of being entirely and permanently sub- merged ; others, overcome by the exertion, fatigue, and hunger, were on the point of giving up all ex- ertion. The officers, being in precisely the same predicament ? • their men, could scarcely make any exertion to encourage them in their efforts to sur- mount the danger and difficulty in which they were placed: but there is little which the indomitable resolution, courage and perseverance of the British soldier will not eventually overcome ; but what a position to be in, as a preliminary entree into an enemy's country I what an opportunity for a slaugh- ter I At length, after terrific exertions, and Her- I M SCENES I» A SOLDIfiK'g UPK. «le.n laboar, the whole mass once more foand tliemielves safe on terra Jir«,a. TOo danger and toU waa no Hooner passed than it was forgotten Md, regardless of the pressing calls of hunger tkey urged on, impatient of delay, until they ad- Tanced close to the town, which, as has been stated surrendered at their approach. ' If 9 foand ler and 'gotten, liunger, tiej ad- stated, CHAFTER It. Safe arriTal into Camp; Uiicorafortablfl Lodging; Barren Coon- try; Effects of Filth; Position of Camp; Second Grenadiers Kwtive Infftntry ; Maasaore of Captain Hand ; Exploit of Lieutenant Clarke; Desperate Leap down a precipioe; Cry of Ilcvenge; Troops in Cunip; Dust Storms; Miseries thereby occasioned; Force increased ; State of Scinde ; Reserve Force ; Sir John Keane's advance on Cabool ; Humours of capturing Hydrubad; Description of Ilydrabad; Policy of the British Functionary, Sir H. Pottingcr; Ameers of Soinde; Remoral of their Body Guards; Substitution of a British Subsidiary Force; Scinde made tributary to the British Government; Sir John Kcane resumes his March for Cabool; Monotonona life of the Scinde Force; Troops put into Huts; Description of HuU; Bad made Worse; Hospitals crowded; Minor* ittoctod as a Sanatorium; Benefit derived thenby; Curious Phenomenon ; Boiling Spring; Sacred Alligator Lake; ?iCfilc«; Fate of a Bog. Having now performed the duty allotted to them, the men hegan to find time to reflect upon the ne- cessity of immediately providing themselves with some of the creature comforts which nature has rendered imperatively necessary to the well-heing of the hody corporate ; and as no provision could be procured but from the ship, a barrel was filled with pea-soup And sent ashore, and, under existing cir- cumstances, was considered no small luxury by every individual- In the evening, which followed hard upon the dinner hour, pickets were told ofif, 66 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. and sentries were placed to prevent surprise, and the remainder of the forces hivouucked on the sand, and on the tirst dawn of the niornin^r the bugle sum- moned the sleepers from their primitive beds, h hi hdk (%ilkf to prepare the ground for an encamp- ment ; the equipage was speedily disembarked, and having procured camels from the town's-people, the forces proceeded to the appointed spot, which, in a military point of view, was eligibly situated| about two miles north-east of the town, where the tents were pitched in a jungle infested with every Rwture that could lend wiidness to the picturesque ellcct of the martial array, and on which each man had to clear the ground before he could attempt to pitch his tent. The surrounding country ai)peared a wide expanse of dreary barrenness, with here and there a small patch of cultivated ground, througli which the natives turned with zealous care every available stream of water. The little plantations were rich in fruits, and amply repaid the labour and care bestowed mmn tlieni. The insulferable stench and malaria which arose from the tan-pits, and from the decomposition of tlie dead carcases before named, which were heaped around the town, would have beeu, even at that distance, the source of much disease, and, perhaps, death, to the Europeans, had it not been for the perioditfal sca-bneiiis which blew over the country, redoloni of he.ilth, and bearing on their purifying wings the most refreshing balm to the dwellers in the camp, which had occasionallv SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 67 to be moved, in order to prevent the troops suffering from the consequent accumulation of otral— and it may therefore be more easily imagined the trouble and toil the entire rc-Jirrangements required, if oidy even to change the front of the camp^ or move it perhaps five hundred yards. The second Grenadier Regiment of the Native Infantry formed part of our force. The sepoys of this regiment were indeed a fine body of men ; and were witliout exception the finest specimen of native soldiers 1 luid ever seen. Their equipment was very nearly that of our forces ; and they seemed to delight in the life of a soldier. Two of its ollicers, Captain Hand and Lieutenant Clarke, rode out into the country one; day, venturing about thr'^e miles from the camp into the hills. Struck with the beauty of the very romantic scenery which surrounded them, they determined to ascend the to}) of a hill which promised to afford them an exten- sive view, which, after some uiilicuUy, owing to the badness of the road, they succeeded in doing. Whilst enjoying the beauty of the surrounding scenery, which greatly surprised them, they were attacked by a party of one of these infatuated tribes, about six in number, who, instigated by the Faqueer, (Priest,) of the tribe, fired, and shot Cap- tain Hand, who instantly fell from his horse ; they also hit Lieutenant Clarke on the thigh ; Captain Hand's wound was mortal ; when he fell they flew upon him, hacking him most cruelly with their :^^' 68 SCENES IN A SOLDlElt's LIFE. scimitars. Lieutenant Clarkr, seeing all hope of escape for his friend was vain, and very doubtful ih his own case, grew desperate ; he was an eicei- lent and an active horseman, and his charger seemed conscious of his rider's danger, who, with great presence of mind and a courageous heart, clapped spurs to his steed and rushed to the edge of the mountain ; a precipice presented itself; the height was appalling, upwards of eighty feet ; yet it was the only alternative, and he took the leap down the fearful abyss. The horse fortunately found a footing, and furiously galloped towards the camp ; during all this time Lieutenant Clarke's thigh was bleeding profusely, and when he reached the canton- ment he fell lainting from loss of blood. Assistance was instantly rendered, and, as soon as returning consciousness permitted, he related the fate of his friend. The scarcely-completed tale roused the feelings of the troops ; a cry of horror burst from every heart, and a strong party hurried to the spot described by Lieutenant Clarke, and found the body of Capt. Hand dreadfully mangled ; they brought it back to the camp. A coffin was prepared, and in a few hours the body was buried : Captain Hand left a widow, and, I believe, two children, to deplore the loss of a fond and an alTcctionate husband, and a father. Lieutenant Clarke soon recovered from his wound. The sickness shortly afterwards disappeared, still the weather continued very trying. During four J"! SCENES IN A SOLPIBB'S LIFE* 69 months in tbe year the weather is very hot, and for six weeks blows one continued cloud of dust from about eight, A. M., to four, P. M. This moving mass of gravel dust is about twenty-five feet high, and smothers every thing which offers any resistance to the drift. During this disagreeable season the situation of sixteen soldiers in a tent of four- teen feet square must be any thing rather than agreeable, their only defence against this bat* tery of small stones being two folds of cotton can- vas; consequently their flesh, their clothes, their beds, were literally buried in it. Some would cover themselves with their blanket, a'^-d try to sleep away the day ; should they be for one hour in the same position, a casual observer w^ould scarcely distinguish the mass from a mound of earth. The food whilst being cooked, was filled with dust, and when placed upon the dishes, before it could be eaten, would be covered thick with sand ; this, ac- companied with ardent heat, and, its attendant, in- tense thirst, rendered the soldiers' lives very misera- ble. Sometimes, during the blowing of the dust, it would rain, which, combined with the closeness of their small tent, inflicted a misery upon the troops which exceeded any thing described by Beresford in his amusing little work, clever and comprehensive as it is ; and, if the proverbial statement have weight, that a man shall eat a peck of dust during his life, lira aai n ViiiaViol aan\% in o Trooi* T'ho nfinn an An f 1ap« not visit Scinde, as it does India, although periodical 70 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. rains fall, more or less, every year; and in 1839 very severe and heavy rains fell, which did not at all tend to increase the comforts of the campaign- ers in that barren region. The force stationed at Kurrachie, now consisted of Her Majesty's 40th Regiment, 3d Company,lst Bat- tallion E. I. C. Artillery, 2nd Regiment Native In- fantry ,• the whole under the command of Lieut. Col. Valiant, acting Brigadier, which, with an efficient Staff, formed the Scindc Reserve Force. The number amounted to about 3000, with the usual Camp-followers, which generally exceeds that of the Troops ; tlie Commissariat and Ordnance Depart- ments were becoming very strong, and every arrange- ment was fast proceeding for the establishment of a strong force, and all bore the appearance of having soon much to do. Sir John Keane, who was in command of the whole, had marched from the Presidency, and was advanc- ing with a strong army towards Cabool, md the route through Hydrabad. On his arrival at the latter place he halted some days, and there was great spe- culation and rumour in the army, as to whether the town of Hydrabad would, or w^ould not, be attacked. It will be hardly necessary for me to inform my readers, how far public rumour has its effect, for if a mole hill makes its appearance, it soon becomes a mountain, and so it was with the conjectures on this occasion ; more than once the whole forcp was m route to join the attack, nay, had it taken, and Inn SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 71 all settled ; if we believe one half of public rumour, it is the extent of its right. The fortress of Hydrabad is situated about two miles from the right bank of the Indus, and has a citadel of immense strength, commanding on one side the whole country near it ; on the other it is so hemmed in by thesuburbs, that, until they be destroy- ed, full scope cannot be given to its efficiency. The entrance is very strong, and through a well fortified passage, crossing a very deep moat, which surrounds the whole building. The walls of the fortress are built of brick and stone, and are of immense thick- ness ; it is about half a mile square, and contains nearly 1800 dwelling houses; some of them are the palaces of the Ameers of Scinde ; in its interior there is also a very lofty tower, mounted by seventy- six steps to the top, in which are placed four large pieces of ordnance, 84-pounders, of Persian manufticture. A successful attack upon this strong fortress would be a difficult undertaking, and could scarcely be accompFished without a great risk, and probably a great loss. The Ameers being rich, powerful,*and influential, perhaps induced our Resi- dent, Sir Henry Pottinger, to endeavour to over- come the obstacle rather by diplomacy, than by force of arms ; and certainly he decided wisely, for as the Indus presented our only advance into Scinde, it was absolutely necessary that Hydrabad should be neutralized ; the task of attempting to take it by force might have failed, and the British n SCENES IN A SOLDIER^g LIFE. ' 'i 'iV. Army would have been thus effectually checked on their onward march. After a short durbar (con- ference,) the political Aymt, Sir 11. Pottinger, brought the discussion to a favourable issue. It was stipulated that the Ameers of Scinde should become tributary to the British, that they should pay to the E. I. Company an indemnity of twenty- seven Lacs of Rupees, (£270,000,) and that several thousand British soldiers should be supported by them in Scinde, for their protection against all onemioB. Prior to this arrangement the Klian of Kolat, Merab Khan— had been accustomed to furnish these Ameers with troops, he receiv;ag a certain sum, *nd paymg and equipping the men. Of course when the arrangements made by Colonel Pottinger and Sir John Keane were carried into effect, these forces were withdrawn, and replaced by our subsi- diary force. It was also necessary, that, in order to secure our more certain protection, the removal of their hired men should take place at once, and our own armies perform their duties. Besides, there was reason to suppose that the Ameers were, in a great measure, implicated in the up-country matters which compelled General Keane to look before he' leaped. The army then resumed its march, crossing the river forCabool,in the greater security, as they knew they had now a strong and friendly fortress in the rear, which would serve alike to strengthen them, and keep the disaffected in Pfl'pr>iii5,i ohao^. I SCENE3 IN A SOLDI^h'S LIFE. 73 During this time of excitement we yet pursued the dull monotony of camp duty at Kurrachie, still form^ iijg the Reserve Force. In May, Brigadier Valiant was called to Bombay to assume the command of that garrison, and was temporarily succeeded by Lieutenant Colonel Spiller, until relieved by Col. Farquharson, which occurred in a few days. Early in June, arrangements were made for "Hutting the Troops," and by the end of July the men took pos- session of them. They were of a very temporary nature, being merely stakes of jungle wood driven into the earth, in the form of oblong rooms, the roof and walls being formed by pieces of coarse India matting stitched together, and covered with turfs, which, from the coarseness of the material, was a very insufficient protection from rain or du^t, and when the former fell in large quantities, which was often the case, the roofing became speedily completely saturated, and poured down upon the men in continued streams of mud, deluging them, their beds, their clothing, and even their food ; but when the fine weather set in, things were comparatively comfortable. Our Ufe of listlessness still continued to wear on, and many and many a time was change prayed for ; the mountain pass, the battle field, the stormy torrent, or the dusty plain, all, or any would have been preferable to the dull tedium of Kurra- chie at that tiipe. Alas! it was to be, and to heighten our anno)^ance, sickness again visited ns ; liiiS tiiTiQ mQ ^COUfgC eajuC ill tuC suapC Qi iCYCF, * i; 74 if *l!lf Hi mn SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. almost as terrible as cholera, and scarcely less fatal ; this fcarfal malady was only preferable, in- asmuch as it ^mvo the medical officers a better chance to arrest its progress, as it was less sudden m Its career. The hospital was crowded, the mcih*- cal officers over-worked, and the men not positively attacked were not in a condition to render any essen- tial service; the wholecountry around Kurrachie, was infected, and as a last resource a kind of sanatorium was erected at Minora, whose lofty situation, and sea-beaten sliore, contained tlie elements of iMialtli, and thither were sent the sick, the invalid, and the convalescent^ and the event justified the judgment and discernment of the proposers of the plan, for though manydied,avery large proportion recovered. This baneful malady having passed away, we again began to look for amusement, or indeed excitement of any kind. It will naturally be supposed that the wonders of nature in our immediate vicinity were among the first objects of interest ; and we made many plea- sant excursions to a very extraordinary phenomenon about five miles from Kurrachie ; it was a tank, or well of hoi water continually boiling and bubbling np, at a temperature of 196 of Fahrenheit, called Muggeer Tank. It was situated near a small lake, which was infested by a great number of alligators! some twenty feet in length; these reptiles were considered sacred, and were attended by a Faqueer, who prayed to them and protected tl SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 75 Parties of pleasure would resort thither, forming very delightful ric-nicR, and would make tea with the water from the boiling tank — and most excel- lent tea it made. One of the amusements of the visitors to this sacred spot was to purchase dogs and goats, to observe the ferocity with which these amphibious godships would devour them. On one occasion when a vciy large party were enjoying ♦' Tho cup which cheers but not inebriates," "at Piresco," among the veneiable trees which shade tiiat silent lake's pellucid shore, a ftivourito little dog, belonging to the Sergeant-Major* of the 40th Regiment, ventured to the margin of the lake to quench his thirst, probably unconscious that it was a temple devoted to a Scindian Deity, or more probably finding its limped coolness more congenial to his then wants, than the contents of the boiling fountain. In a moment the unconscious and pro- fane intruder was attacked, and in an equally short space of time devoured. I could not learn that they had ever attacked a human being. *Thi8 worthy man, S. Snelling, is now Lieutenant and Adjutant of the same Corps, having risen through merit, and in every rank, from the Private to his present, he has ever proved himself an amiable member of society, and a most valuable and zealous servant to his country, and richly deserves all that can be bestowed on him. CHAITER III. ImproTemontofKurrachie} News from Upper Country ofth» Capture of Ghu.nee ; Cabool; Coronation of Shah-Shooia- ool-Moolk as King of Cabool; Sir T. Wiltshire tako. v ' Keturn of Sir John Keane's Army; Arrival in Kurrnchie,' Favorable opportunity; Brilliant Staff; Prince Ilyder Khan- Presentation of New Colors to the 40th llegiment; ])eparture Of the Cabool Army for Bombay; Wreck of H. M. irth Kegt in the "Hannah"; Dreadful loss sustained by the Coins' Prospects of an Insurrection; Call upon Brigadier Farquharson to supply Trqops; His inability to comply; Despatch of the Right Wing 40th; An Affghan's opinion of European Power- Preparations for March to Tatta; A slight retrogade step in the story; Embarkation of Troops in the Ship Stalkart. laden with Powder and Camp Equipage; Alarm of Fire at Sea- Ji^xpectation of being blown up; Description of Scene; Dis- covery of Cause; Effect Produced; Arrival at Destination ; The Murderers of Captain Hand; ThelCommander of the Party A Priest hanged; March of the Wing to Googah. Its beku- ties; Arrival ^t Tatta; Embarkation in Boats; Departure up the Indus. ^ Our Hyes now became much more at ease at Kurrachiej daily improvements were malting to perfect the state of the camp ; a place for landing was formed on the shore of the creek, and two small steamers were sent from the Presidency to ply up and down a small river, to enable the troops to move with ffreater facility nn *ho /..^„«*^ u:-i- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 77 almost every day was now being called for — ships arriving with stores of food, ordnance, troops and equipage, and adding every thing towards comple- ting the efficiency of the field force ; and by the end of 1839 the arrangements were so much so that Kurrachic was indeed the key t'> Scinde. The natural consequence of these constant arrivals wan the circulation of varieties of rumours ; many a time the hundred tongues of a celebrated babbling old lady of ancient days had destined ns to proceed onwards ; sometimes we were positively going to Hydrabad ; again it was confldently asserted we were to proceed to join the force before Ghuznee ; and another as positively aflSrmed that we were to share in the attack upon Kelat ; but alas ! for our wayward destiny ! there lay the force in Kurrachie, hearing of wars and rumours of wars, but living a life of inactive peace on the inhospita- ble plains of Scinde, surrounded by a treacher- ous foe— and more galling still, doomed to hear in rapid succession of the glorious career of the remainder of the army under Sir John Keane, a few of the Kurrachie force only proceeding with him, and returning soon after to relate the fall of Ghuznee, the conquest of Cnbool and Kelat, and the coronation of Shah Shooja-uol-Moolk as Kingof Aff- ghanistan ; returning with the glories so much prized by the British Soldier — the victory over an enemy. There is sor^ething particularly envious in the ^^:^.j ^e ~ i>_ii.;_i- cj-u? i~ „ i i, n ■, . .-, iiiiiiu ui a liAiiiSii KjUiUiUf J Vfiieu iiC uCarS Oi uVkXm, 78 V' • 'M '!i ■ I <H SCKNKS IS A BOLDIEii's LIFE. m\\ victory, or exploit, cacli seems to tliinic he ought to have sliared, and arc ever saiH^niine to join in tlic efforts to distinguisli and uphold the dauntless fame of the service ; they look upon fate to be wnkind, in not allottin^^ 8omethin*r for them to do, in order that they may reap laurels, and be held up as a participator in that strange name. Glory. Such was the case with the Scinde Ucscrve Force. In February, 1840, Kurrachie showed another, sight ; we received intimation that the army of Sir J. Keane, having completed its operations, was now on its march to embark at Kurrachie for the Presi- dency ; the troops soon followed the news (which was brought by the few of our men wht were at- tached) of their coming. In a few days the town was crowded with the army, which consisted of u squadron of II. M. 4th Light Dragoons, (he 2nd or Queen's Infantry, and H. M. 17th Regiment, toge- ther with a number of native Corps, the whole accompanied by the usual numerous host of native servants and followers. Early in the year the officer commanding the 40th had received a case containing a new stand of colors for the regiment, and as they still remained unpresented, this was considered as a most auspicious and fitting opportunity for their presentation, as there were some very distinguished persons then in Kurrachie, among whom was Prince Hyder Khan, the younger son of Dost Mahomed the dethroned King of Cabool, who was kept under SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 70 the protection of Sir John, and is now, I believe, in England for education, whose presence would cer- tainly add to the appearance and sensation in wit- nessing the splendid spectacle. Sir John Keane undertook the honouring and Iionoured office of presenting the colours, and on the 16th February the lieginient was drawn up in Iteview order, and, after having been inspected by the Lieutenant-General and Prince Ilyder Khan, it was formed into three sides of a square, and Sir John Keano, Prince llyder. General Wiltshire, and a very splendid Staff, formed the fourth ; the two senior Ensigns were in the centre of the opposite side, and somewhat in advance of the line, bearing the two old colours. The new colours were brought out and consecrat- ed by the Rev. Mr. Burnell, as is usual in these cases, who read a history of the achievements of this distinguished old corps, and a splendid category of noble deeds it displayed. Its renown, begun in Egypt, spread to South America, and was identi- fied with every glorious battle-field in the Peninsula, the South of France, and in the Netherlands, end- ing with that fight, which will never pass from the page of history, the battle which decided the fate of millions, and restored peace to the world — the battle of Waterloo. Eloquent as was the language of this pious man, and reverend clergyman — glori- ous as was the strain of gratulation in which he spoke — not a member of the rnrns thpn nrosAn* hut m SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. felt his heart echo the fervent strain, as he dwelt upon feature after feature in the history of its long and noble career, and when appealing from the past to the present, and calling upon those who then composed it to emulate tiie conduct of those who had won for it such a splendid reputation, the burst of enthusiastic concurrence could scarcely be suppressed, and every one on the ground felt that, come when it would, the trial would not find them wanting, and that the colours, if the opportu- nity offered, Tvould be adorned by names as bright and glorious as any in the list the old ones bore emblazoned on their broad bright folds. The history having been concluded, and the con- secration over, the two junior Ensigns advanced to the front, the band playing the Regimental March, until they reached the spot where Sir John had ad- vanced to meet them ,• and there, whilst the bands played the National Anthem, Sir John presented the colours to them, the regiment presenting arms and the officers saluting. So runs the ceremony. Sir John addressed the regiment in a most kind and affecting manner, pointing out to it the great and important charge it had undertaken ; he related several interesting events in the history of the regi- ment, which had come under his personal observa- tion, in engagements at which he had been present ; and stated, in a manner higldy flattering to the 2nd Somersets, that if he had ever again to command a regiment, he did not know any which he could SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 81 prefer to the gallant 40th. Having concluded his address, the band again began to play; the two Ensigns bearing their new colours, took their post in front of the line ; the Ensigns bearing the old and time-honoured remnants withdrew with them to the rear, when they were honourably consigned to the care of a guard, by whom they were escorted to the Commanding Officer's tent; the regiment again presented arms, and the oflicers again saluted, the band playing the " Point of War," as the new colours, for the first time, were waved over the ranks they were speedily to lead on to war and victory. — This truly imposing and heart-stirring spectacle being past, the interesting ceremony having been concluded, the parade was dismissed, and the men were dispersed to their tents, with proud hearts and swelling bosoms, if I may judge of the im- pression made upon them, by the feelings which were excited in my own, feeling as I did as a soldier. To the eye and heart of a soldier^ out of the many sights he sees, none can prove more inter- esting than the presentation of standards or colours to that corps of which he forms a part, and does, in the strongest sense, fill him with patriotic feeling such as it is impossible to describe. I revert to this ceremony in a greater detail than I had originally intended, because I know so well the feelings of soldiers on such occasions, and parti- cularly as it is somewhat remarkable that the ccrps f f! 1,11 M: i -:M 82 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. should be on acCive service with a set of colours, whose remnant would scarcely cover a square foot' and, after along sojourn in " piping peace," should re-enter on an expedition, receive a new set in the field, and, as will be afterwards seen, encountered many fights, to add to the many honors already borne on those gained by their predecessors. Truly it may be said, they are a mere bauble, but custom creates much inco/iSi'stency, and although the true tenor of the br, j colors in a Regiment is nothing in itself, >et they contain a history, and a sort of gravity, exhibiting the many series of conquests and trials which those who rallied beneath underwent, and at once become a monument, and a relic, and in common with other revered relics, are carefully and warm-heartedly viewed by a soldier, that determine him to go and do likewise. Shortly after, a sufficiency of transport having been obtained. Sir John, and the whole of the field*- division of the army of the Indus, embarked for the Presidency. H. M.'s 17th embarked on board the " Hannah,"andwereonly preserved from the dangers and difficulties of their land undertakings, to be ex- posed to others even more terrific, and disastrous, at sea, for, on their passage from Kurrachie to Bom- bay, they were wrecked, and lost almost every thing except what they had upon their backs, being obliged to leave the vessel to its fate. The Prize Master of the Kelat treasure was enabled, by great risk and exertion, to save some of the more valuable portion SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 83 but the men and oflScers generally were left in a state of almost destitution, and thought themselves fortunate in being able to reach Bombay without loss of life or limb. They were picked up by some passing boats ; and one or two officers, who suc- ceeded jn saving some clothes, shared with their men. What a toil after that of so dreary a march as coming from the upper part of Aflfghanistan I Many of the men, who had succeeded, up the coun- try, in getting valuables, lost their all, and were forced to pocket the satisfaction of getting a new supply of necessaries the best way they could, i - truly the compensation granted for the indemnifica- tion of a loss to the soldier, is little compared with the inconvenience and misery endured in such cases. The compensation granted from government, is far from sufficient to repay the soldier's loss ; be- cause, in such a case the soldier loses his all, his little collections, either in cash or curios. His cloth- ing may from care, be superior, or more extensive than the regulations require, but the allowance to meet the loss barely supplies the stipulated quantity thus is he left to toil afresh for another stock ; the government never consider the privation or suffering in this case, as it would indeed be ex- pected, but the term duty envelopes dl this ; private feelings or suffering, cannot be recognised ; it there- fore remains for those for whom we suffer, to sym-^ pathize. % ' ['■ ;! ]f )^ u\ M ii I :ll m if!!: 84 SCENES lU A soldier's lilPB. But & very short period had elapsed, after th« withdrawing of the main army from the upper pro- vinces, before the chiefs of Beloochistan, embittered at the superiority gained by the British Arms,.de-^ termined to rise, and, if possible, annihilate the few British garrisons then holding the different foris, and posts of communication in that region, placed there by Sir John Keane on his return, to keep the country. The authorities having received intima- tion of the proposed outbreak, directed forces from Ferozepore and Kurrachie to co-operate with the garrisons already in the covkUj, and make pre- parations to carry on the campaign on^an extensive scale. By the advice of, and in compliance with, the desire of the Political Agent, Colonel Farquhar- son was called upon to send the 40th Regiment on emergent service, to proceed in pursuit of Nusseer Khan, son. of Merab Khan, Chief of Kelat, who fell on the stoming of that place by Sir T. Wiltshire, but Col. F. found it impossible fully to comply with the wishes of the political authorities, owing to the very important station Kurrachie had become, and which required a much stronger force to retain it than there was present. But notwithstanding its littleness, he directed the Right Wing of the 40th to proceed, being one-half of his only European Force — and Europeans do not figure very small in an enemy's country, for an Affghan once told me, when asked what he thought of the Feringees (Europeans,) that he looked upon an Affghan to be SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 85 worth fonr Sepahee's, or Sepoys, (native soldiers) and an European to be worth four Affghans. So muchTor our discipline and courage, which have, many a time made an enemy quake at even the thoughts of meeting us. The Right Wing was ordered to Tatta, to emhark in boats and sail up to Sukkur. This was, at all events, a commencement, and promised fairly to be followed up with hard campaigning. A striking incident happened at this time, which, although it may not directly be on the journey up the Indus, yet as it occurred prior to the final arrangement for that expedition, I feel persuaded it will not be considered by my readers unworthy of a place. A despatch duty had to be performed to the Presidency, and being done, the ship " Stalkart" was ordered at Bombay to receive on board a detachment of fifty Eu- ropean Troops, six ofiicers, two hundred foiiowers,and cargo of camp equipage, and ordnance stores, ind v ding about three hundred tons of powder,f or the mag- azines and stores at Kurrachie. We sailed from Bom- bay, and had been about five days on board, wending our way through the unconsci . :.s world of waters, and stemming the trackless deep most peacefully. AH was light and comparatively happy ; the troops en- joying themselves in the merry strain of a song, or tale, on deck ; the natives were, ;^? Is very common with them^ indulging freely ii' sn. iking the hookah and relating their Arabian stories. — The mode of smoking the hookah is, no doubt, well known : it 86 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. S"?'! M J 11 ml is, aiaongBt the common classes of natives, formed of a cocoa nut-shell, many are made of glass, silver, and sometimes gold for the more affluent, and filled with water, with two holes bored in it ; in one is placed a long tube, on the top of which is a bowl to contain tobacco, and is usually half filled with the weed, and filled up with red cinders of charcoal, and a small pipe from the other hole enables the smoker to draw the smoke from the bowl through the water. This certainly makes tlie habit a greater luxury, and far more pleasant than imbibing the essence of tobacco direciiy from the crucible, as it were, and H must be confessed, considering our being so far in advance of Asia, th^:, they gi-eatly excel us in the use of tobacco, purifyirg it through rose or .^ring water, and consequently receiving it cool and free from that oft-complained of burning effect produced by the use of the common pipe or cigar— not that I recommend the practice of smoking at all. The natives being such incessant consumers of tobacco it will not be wondered at, that the accident I am about to relate occurred. It appeared that, owing to the hurry in stowing, boxes of powder, tents, shot, and provisions were all placed Irregularly together, or rather, not proper- ly separated, and it happened that one afternoon as the officer whose duty it was to issue provisions, was getting out more from below, a native close to, let a cinder from his pipe fall down amongst the powder in the hold— it passed between some of the boxes and SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 87 could not be seen ; an alarm waa immediately raised that fire had got among the powder, and the ship was expected every moment to be blown out of the water. Every hand was on deck — some screamed, some prayed ; none knew what was best to be done — each looked for that moment to be his last, and every voice uttered cries of appeal to the Great Giver of life. At such a time, or such a crisis, a million thoughts come into the mind. Every cheek lost its colour, and many clung to the shrouds of the ship, unconsciously, as though *,hat was safer than in the hold itself. There were several females and young children on board, and you may picture the situation cf a mother then. I remember sitting on the step of the gangway, awaiting the looked-for explosion of the powder, and imploring that mercy so bountifully promised and held out to us, wondering what had best be done. — Several minutes elapsed ; it was well known that the powder was covered with pitched canvass, and a wrapper over that, and it was conjectured that the cinder had fired the wrapper, and that it was making its way, mA although no explosion had yet taken place, it was fully believed one would very soon. Never was a scene so horribly depicted, or the career of human life so near its end ! it would bafile all possibility to describe it, and I must, therefore, leave it to be imagined, which no doubt it can be, by my readers, who will naturally like to know the upshot of the affair. We waited for nearly twenty minutes, when 1 p If l*'-^^ 1 f : fl SCENES IN A SOLMER's LIFE. I proposed, ml desperando^ to go down with the Purser, and if possible, discover what was likely to be the result— at first it was negatived ; if a draft was admitted, explosion was certain, but down we »vent, and after removing box after box, we dis- covered the cinder lying on the top of one, and on examimngit, it appeared that when it fell and rest- ed, it (as is usual with charcoal) became immedi- ately covered with a white ash, and thus was almost harmless. I carefully picked up the " leetel " thing that had caused so much uproar, brought it on deck, and found even then, on blowing it, that it revived, and was not harmless; but it was soon hurled overboard, and all hearts leapt for joy. I must say, I was never in so peculiar a predicament in my life,— that is an acknowledgment, although I have been in several disasters at sea, for on my first voy- age to the East, the unfortunate ship I sailed in, the "Morley," w^as twice dismasted, her provi- sions short, and all hands on board, for a conside- rable time, obliged to live upon salt beef, and water, every other kind of provision fore and aft, having been consumed— and in all, in addition to being six months and a half in making the passage from England to Bombay ; which on another occa- sion, in the ship " Forfarshire," we effected in less than 100 days— and the natives, who are naturally black, most certainly depicted an inclination to change colour on this occasion ; and it was the first H .ii SCENES IN A SOLDIEK'S LIFE. 89 time I had ever seen a Black nearly white in the face through fear. We, however, soon got all tranquil, and arrived at the Bay of Minora, and landed at Kur- rachie, with an incident in each of our lives, never to be erased, at all events, from mine, and I think I can venture to say the same for the rest. Before the small force proceeded on the duty al- lotted them, our authorities had not forgottei. the calamity that befel poor Capt. Hand, and had been using every possible means to discover the perpe- trators of so treacherous a piece of villainy. The Chiefs had all been warned that unless the fugi- tives were forthcoming. and that soon, that Government would take other means to find them out. It soon occurred that three of the party were brought in, and were tried by order of the Ameers of Scinde ; and it turned out that the party who attacked the two unarmed men were six infatuated miserable beings who lived in the hills, and were part of the Brahoe Tribe ; and, as usual, were in- fluenced by their Faqueer, who commanded and directed the plan of attack. This despicable object of the Em-opean's wrath was one of the three arrested, and was sentenced to be taken to the spot where he had ordered the murder to be committed, and there to be hanged in the presence of the majority of the troops. And never was the instalment of a revenge more wel- come to those present ; the wretch himself seemed to think nothing of launching into eternity ; the rest were to work in chains for life. The other m SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. three were not discovered, and there is every reason to believe that they, and othvr jjarties of their Tribe, were hired to take every opportunity of an- nihilating small parties, as will be seen by the sneaking unmanly tricks practised on us. The wing, on the 10th August, 1840, marched for Tatta, via Goojun, which was the first day's march, about twelve miles ; the camp was pitched in the centre of a cluster of tall shady trees, with here and there a large Banyan tree, whose noble arms spread and formed a canopy for a hundred- it was bordered by a beautiful lake, whose clear and murmuring streams added much to the plea- santness of the scene, and seemed to lull the soldier to sleep on his cold and flinty couch of war ; the lake hemming in on the one side the loveliest or- chards, and watering the grounds of Goojah, which is the ruin of a once noble place, and even yet has traces left of its Eastern grandeur, and overhung by the lofty Lucknee Mountains, that run, intersec- ted with lovely vales, from Dera, Himaylle, and He- rat. The sun seemed to have lost its power, and shone as it were merely to renovate the air, and add to the magnificence of the view around, which wov!d have done justice to the most choice portfo- lio. But whatever the beauty, or however satis- factory to the mind, the thing is but momentary ; itpasseth,and the campaigner must move on, hoping for change to meet his wishes, and lend its aid to make each scene as lovely as those ah-eady thought SCENES IN A SCii.DlER'8 LIFE. 91 so ; for in such aa that first day's march would make one say, we'd like, <* To live and die in scenes like this, with so. le we've left hehind us." Here, however, as is almost universally the case, it may he truly said, that God ma(1<^ the country and man the town. A more wretched, miserahlc, and filthy combination of mis-called dwellings, it has never been my lot to s. ; no, no! even in Inte- rior India, that region of miserable villages. I left this spot the following day with a silent but heart- felt sigli >i" regret. About one p. m.. on the 15th, we arrived at T{Jtta ; the roads were „Jod but the way was long, and the sun's power intense. Just before we reached the place of encampment many became exhausted from over fatigue and from the effects of the sun's overpowering rays: numbers fainted ; many became sick ; and all suffered more or less. This harassing march was fortunately the last we had to undertake, for some time at all events, us on our arrival at Tatta we found three small steamers, and a number of boats waiting in readiness to convey us up the Indus, and we embarked on board them, the same day. Cap- tain Boscawen, and his company, in the steamers, and the other companies under the command of Capt. Adamson. ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^ 2.0 11.25 1^1^ 12.5 ■so ""^ us WUU 11= 14 IIIIII.6 y <^ 7.^ 7. o / Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 mc \\ V o\ ^^ ^ ^■v ^^ '<h r^ . IF^-: L % CHAPTER IV. I'atta; Its appearance from the Indus; The Eiver Indus- Its Inundations, like the Nile; Danger of being overpowered by the Current; Whirpools; Curious modes of Swimming and Na- vigation; Description of Jerrick; Dreadful Catastrophe; Burn- . ing of Dr. Hibbert and two others, British Officers, by Piring the Jungle; Impossibility of Escape; Surmise as to cause; bhikareesoi- Hunting Grounds of Ameers of Scinde; Appear- ance of Hydrabad from Indus; Lucknee Mountains; Pleasure Jioats of the Ameers; Description of Workmanship; The Ameers of Scinde; The Power and Scource of Revenue; Lake of Ilarran; Larkana; Arrival at Bukkur; Conjunction of Troops; Description of Sukkur; Fortress of Bukkur: Its Situation and Employment; State Prisoners; The Prince of Shawl and Grand Vizier of Kelat; Strict Guard on them: Their Treatment and Allowances; Short History of the Prince; Release of the Prisoners; Their Employment by Go- Derr^f r.^'r": ""T'^' I^o^^^-al Agent; CaptainBean; Defeat of Lt. Clarke's Force; His Death; Dreadful Loss of Stores, &c; Awful situation of Troops in Sukkur; Prepara- Uons for War; Press for Cattle; Effect of the appearance of British Troops; March of Troops to Shikarpoor; Equipment of the Force; Appearance of Shikarpoor. Tatta is built upon the site, and contains many striking remains of a city of ancient grandeur, par- ticularly a large round mausoleum, which stands, near the centre of the city j several ancient tem- ples, although now partially in ruins, are still beau- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. tifiilj and exhibit many splendid specimens of skill in the art of sculpture. These temples are built of brick, and covered with a sort of glazed or enamelled square earthenware material, of different designs, and though rude, their decorations show evidently that much labour was bestowed upon them. The larger dwellings are built also of brick, but the work*- manship very so so ; the smaller dwellings are, as elsewhere, of mud. This was the last city taken by Alexander when he invaded that country. The fact of the earthenware being enamelled, struck me that the art existed at a much earlier pe- riod than may be at first supposed ; and the designs Introduced were very similar to ours. Blue, green, and red, were the principal colours used; and iheir style of gilding, although inferiorv to those of finer European taste, is really most delicately caiv ried out. Their general ideas of drawing arc coarse, and amount to a daub, having no idea of perspective. The bricks are commonly sun-dried clay or mud, mixed with chopped straw, and are about eight inches square, and two or three' thick. Wood,, though small, abounds here; and the natives are principally Murrees. The general appearance of the town is noble, and even elegant when seen from a distance, but when :*s realities are " oculis suhjecta Jidelihus " that impression rapidly fades away, and the whole place is seen to be disfigured by the filth, wretchedness and poverty of its interior, which may be consi- n SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. dercd as a reason for the virulence of the attacks of cholera and fever, to which this town in common with many others is subject. The 26th Native In- fantry were stationed at Tatta, during the time we suffered from the cholera at Kurrachie, and dread- ful were the ravages committed among them by that fell disease ; it was reduced to a perfect skele- ton, and was removed to enable the number to be again filled up. I found, upon enquiry, that trade at this time was in a flourishing state at Tatta, and the traflSc up and down the Indus very exten- sive, it being generally considered as the mart of the Indus. ' Our sail from Tatta to Sukkur, in the boats, oc- cupied twenty-eight days ; there were twenty men in each boat, and they canied thirty days' rations each, in the same boat with them- selves. The Indus is in many parts very wide, and in others very narrow, and it has many tributaries, some of them being very noble streams. The Indus, like the Nile, is subject to periodical over- flowings, which are looked forward to with great anxiety by the natives, and revered with a feeling nearly allied to veneration. This inundation is the most apparent cause of the vast inequalities in the width of this mighty river, as the weight of water frequently so much weakens and emaciates the banks that they fall into the channel in vast masses, and are afterwaids rapidly swept away by SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 95 the strength of the current, which in the sunnier season is very great, when the whirlpools are very- numerous, and very dangerous, sweeping away in their vortex the ablest and strongest swimmers ; inevitable destruction is the certain consequence of being once caught in the range of their centri- petal force. As the whole of many parts of the country are entirely overflowed, the natives have to remove, and return when it has subsided. Alligators and porpoises are very numerous, and attracted a great deal of attention during this long voyage. The various modes of native navigation are very curious, and to strangers would s< . m particularly dangerous, from the vast swarms of alligators to which I have alluded, but I did not learn that acci- dents often happened from their extraordinary aquatic tactics ; one plan is to take i he skin of a sheep or goat, as whole as possible, and making it into a bag, which they ingeniously contrive so to stitch that it is completely air tight, and which is inflated when required for use. It is then laid on their breast, and the two fore legs are brought round and fastened together behind the neck ; in like man- ner, the two hind ones are passed round the waist and tied behind the back, the basket or parcel which they carry is fastened either to their shoul- ders or fixed on their turban, and they then lay themselves down upon the water, and propel thenih- selves by their arms and legs at a very rapid rate. m SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. ^! I ( } i i i; I. : >l II il II il f i t This mode of travelling is common to the couriers, the fishermen, nml even to those who may occa- sionally require to cross the river. There is ano- ther plan equally strange and more surprising to the European traveller, which is by means of a large earthenware vessel of a globular form, with an opening at the top ; the traveller places this primitive argosy with the opening against his chest and the air contained within it, as sufticient to bear up him and his fishing net, and he boldly swims or sails — I know not which to call it — up and down the river, propelling himself by his legs, and casting his net most dexterously. I have seen few things any where which more excited my won- der than these two extraordinary floats, or buoys, -—for they are nothing more,— and the ease and rapidity with which the navigators darted from point to point was truly wonderful, particularly to the stranger. The natives of the east are most certainly a clever race, and require but to be culti- vated in the higher branches of art, to make th n eminently so. There is one general feeling I ever observed amongst them — which is, the} seldom can be prevailed upon to alter their old plans, although it may be in the clearest possible manner proved to them, the great £.dvantage to be derived from a change — for instance, in cleaning their grain, they never thrash it ; because custom says, let the oxen tread it out, — and they still uphold it — and innumerable other things, of which I shall say SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. «r more anon— they adhere most devotedly to the laws of Moses. We passed Jerrick, or Dhyjrik, which stands on a rock, facing the river, and presents a verv formi- dable appearance — this place recalled the melan- choly fate of three oflacers of the grand army, when stationed here, in 1839. They went out on a shooting excursion, and got into the jungle ; they had penetrated a considerable way in, and found themselves completely hid in the underwood and buishes; they suddenly saw a large broad sheet of devouring flame, sweeping onward in the direction in which they wore, somewhat in the form of a half-moon, and each moment it seemed as if some gigantic genii of fire were approaching them, with extended arms, to catch them in their terrible em- brace. On, on it came, cracking, roaring, tl^undcN ing, and stretching far and near for miles, .the ex- tremities now so nearly meeting each other, and at no distance from themselves, that all attempts at escape were utterly impossible ; in the course of a very short time the flames had entirely encircled them, and they all fell victims to the de- vouring elements. One was Doctor Hibbert, the names of the others I forget. It is unknown if this terrible calamity originated in design or accident ; we were inclined to think the former, after poor Hand's affair, and knowing the love they bore us ; although its rapid progress must have been greatly a ■ ! L, 98 6CENE8 IN A SOLDIEB'S LIFE. increased from the long droughts and intense heat which had prevailed for some time previously. The hunting grounds of the Ameers of Scinde, were in the immediate neighbourhood of Hydrabad, to which we were now rapidly approaching ; they are walled for upwards of fourteen miles, lie close to the InduS; and abound in game., being preserved by keepers, called Shikarees, much iU the same way that these matters are managed in England. I am happy to say, however, that game laws there, are very diflferent from those which in Britain are the fertile source of so much cruelty, tyranny and crime. * There is something magnificently sublime in the panoramic scenery of Hydrabad and its environs, where we arrived without accident. We passed close under the termination of a lofty range of mountains which reach to the banks of the river^on the summits of which stand several splendid mausoleums or tombs of the great, the warlike, and the noble t their lofty magnificence, at such an ele- vated position, made them appear to be strikingly grand to the admiring traveller, and renders them an interesting picture from whatever point of view they may be observed. The noble and sublime mountains sweep away far as the eye can trace their swelling mound on both sides of the river; they are intersected by many roads and plains. On the bank of the river stands a range, known as the Lucknee Hills, over SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. which Sir John Kcane led his forces ; and a pain- ful, wearisome, tedious, and dangerous march it was, the road being long, steep, and narrow ; its summit could not be less than 1200 feet above the water. And the road which wound about its sides seemed like some great serpent crawling up its almost precipitous slopes. The pleasure boats of the Ameers are kept in little covers near this place, and being built in a very curious and highly orna- mented style, give a very flattering idea of the taste and skill of the artificers. They are built similar to our ancient state barges, and the work- manship exhibits the great patience they are endowed with. A considerable portion of the work in the saloons is perforated, and whole doors, windows, ceilings, are formed of carved wood, in small pieces, perhaps not more than an inch and a half long, some not a quarter the length, ingeniously joined together, without the aid of composition or glue, other than the fitting of the joints ; the carving is extrejneVj? delicate,. and JHuJsl have taken an immen- sity pi\^j)iot.M«i;ttmk^ib^^^ tools they worKwiih.aresoJudf..; seldom ^n.deed, do we see a carpektii-wittinjoYe-than ttree^^^ tejir eoarse chisel«, a saw, and an adze, which is also his hammer. The Ameers govern the whole of Scinde, and th« larger proportion of Beloochistan, and derive their revenue from an impost laid upon the possessions of every individual in their widely extended domains ; this impost appears to be very oppressive, and also i 100 IP ! SCENES IN A SOLDIEB's LIFE. very rigorously exacted. There are eight Ameers brothers, Meer Shadad Khan, Meer Hosein Ali, Meer Nusseor Mahomed Khan, Meer Mahomed Khan, Meer Sobdan Khan , Meer Roostoom Khan, Meer Ali Morad Khan, and Meer Shere Mahomed Khan. These brothers are divided into the various portions of Terri- tory, having one Rais or head, to whom they look op as arbiter, but they are continually at logger- heads, owing to jealousy in their divisions of power • the turban or crown being allotted to one by right, and the chicanery practiced by these Ameers or Lords of Scinde, will be more fully pointed out m the concluding portion of this narrative, when I have to speak of the conquest of Scinde, in 1843 who resided in and near Hydrabad, in all the luxu^ nous indolence which is so characteristic of the Eastern regions. After leaving Hydrabad we came to Sehwan which is in no wise distinguished from the genera^ htj of Scmdean towns ; its market was abundantly furmshedwith.excellent.fish,^a|ia its .trade seemed to be in a ffourishiflg'siate.; After ^ (ew hours sail up the rivpr /rom thin place, it.opened into a >yide expanse, ^tdch. is . catlei the Lakeiof. Harran -another of these delightful spots the eye loves to rest upon, and the memory to recall; as we saiJed along, Its lovely banks rose at first beautifully, and then as they receded into the distance, swelled mag- nificently until the clouds of the horizon seemed to rest upon the bright clear outline of the deep blue SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 101 summits. The breeze from the shore came redolent, and laden with the perfumed sweets of the wild violets and the indigenous roses; the melodious warblings of the singing birds, as they hopped from sprig to sprig, among the thick branches of the gi- gantic forest trees which formed the undulating foreground ; the waving play of the lofty cedars as they gracefully yielded to the gentle breeze, just permitting the azure tints of heaven sometimes to gleam between them, and gleaming from point to point, the dazzling tints of the bright and refulgent sunbeams, lent a charm to this lovely spot, which fixes it on the mind as one of those efforts of nature, which are created to be once seen, and never for-* gotten. We passed on to Larkana, a place of extensive trade, and in which is held a noble bazaar, and is a mart for all the surrounding country. We made no stay here, but started on to our des- tination, Sukkur, which we reached on the 13^th of September, heartily glad to know that, for the pre- sent at least, our voyage was at the end, for although the banks of the Indus are marked by many and great beauties, the intense heat of the sun, from whose scorching rays we were defended only by a matting roof, prevented us feeling the delight we should otherwise have had in beholding them. Our boats too, being very small and uncomfortable, did not tend to make the passage more convenient or agreeable. On our arrival we found that the 7.02 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. lil' two companies which had preceded us, had all wrived safely, and re-union with them was a source of mutual satisfaction. Our number of sick was now very small, and the prevalent disease was fever, from which India is scarcely, if ever, free. A few days was quite sufficient to render the right wing, now wholly engaged at Sukkur, perfectly efficient for field service. Sukkur stands on the left bank of the river,* Rores on the right, and the fort of Bukkur stands on a small island almost amid channel, and between the two otlier towns ; access to this fort is some- times, owing to the force of the current, very diffi- cult, if not altogether impossible. It is a very desirable position, and, garrisoned by Europeans, h quite capable of offering the most complete resis- tance to any native force ; it had, therefore, been established as a complete arsenal for the accommoda- tion of our forces, and at that time contained an immense store of ordnance, provisions, ammunition, and other apparatus of war. And what was still more necessary, a very large amount of treasure — that oil, without which the wheels of any machine, however perfect it may otherwise be, will not long continue in working order. It also contained the State prisoners, the Prince of Shawl, and the Vizier of Kelat ; the former was taken prisoner when leading his troops to the assistance of the chief of Kelat, and the latter at the storming of that place by Gen. Wiltshire. These being two very influen- SCENES IN A SOLMEn^S LIFE. 103 d all lource : was was free. very lial persons in Beeloochistan, their safe custody was of very great importance to the British Govern- ment, and they were, therefore, kept in close arrest. As in one or two instances lately, means had been found to forward letters and even weapons to them, by f'.eir friends outside, the charge of them was transferred to the Europeans, with strict injunctions that they should be strictly guarded and closely watched, for which purpose two sentries simultane- ously mounted guard over them every two hours, with imperative orders that they must never both have their eyes ofif them at the same moment, that they were to accompany them whenever they moved, and never permit them to make use of any writing materials whatever, or to retain in their possession any knives or any thing else which they could in any manner render available to effect their escape. They were at first allowed one and a half rupees, equal to three shillings each per diem, for their subsistence, but after a time, the allowance was reduced to one and a half rupees for both, which at best, was certainly but a sorry allowance to maintain the dignity of princes, prisoners though they were. They used occasionally to receive small presents, such as a telescope or other small articles of that description. They each had one, and were agree- ably surprised at their powers, as they sat and viewed from the fortress the boats coming up the Indus ; and more than once has the Prince expres- 104 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. sed his anxiety to see Lonedone (Lcndon,) which he' ujed to say must be very great. The prince of Shawl at length became so familiar with our men, that he learned to speak tolerably good English. I gleaned from him that he was a great warrior ; he showed to me, and to many others, eight wounds which he had received in different battles in which he had been engaged, with several hostile tribes. The last was through the hand, from a musket, in a combat near Kelat. He told me, also, that he had a son, who was in command of about 2000 men, formerly belonging to Merab Khan. Mahomed Hassan, the Vizier, wLd bore a very noble and aristocratic appearance, was tena- coiis and proud, was seldom seen to speak to any one, and wore a very dignified air. His beai'd was long and black. He seemed to pride himself much in his hair, had it often dyed; his nails were stained red; being a mark of superiority, and, in short, his gait would at once impress the stranger with his lefty station; he was subsequently released, and sent on a mission with an officer of our service into the Interior of the country; and about the 3ame time the Prince of Shawl was also liberated, and, having entered into terms of amity with the Company's officers, he was appointed contractor for camels and other carriage to the British troops in Beeloochistan and Scinde, receiving an advance of 6,000 rupees, to enable him to carry ou his new office, which he managed with great tact and ability. SCENEK IN A SOLDIBR'S LIFE. 105 There were some other subordinate Beeloochee prisoners in the Fort of Bukkur, who were aftei^ wards also released. The Fort of Bukkur is capable of being rendered one of the strongest in India, and is of very ancient origin ; it is the one mentioned in history as having been taken by Alexander the Great ; but is now, however, fast going to ruin, and some of the walla have actually fallen into decay. Roree on the right bank of the Indus, is very thickly populated, and serves as a great support to Sukkur ; it also fell into the hands of Alexander's pervading power, but was restored to its people. The Fort standing on an island in the centre of the river, speaks much of its commanding situar tion. It contained several hundred houses, and was capable of affording protection to upwards of 20,000 people ; the citadel was of immense strength, and m itself would contain a large army. The Political agent at Sukkur was Ross Bell, Esq., and Captain Bean was his Assistant. Cap- tain Bean is the officer, who, with his lady, encoun- tered such dreadful hardships during the siege of the Fort of Kahun, which he so long and so gal- lantly defended. Lieutenant Clarke, who was wounded at the time Captain Hand was murdered, a brave, but unfortunate, young man, was conr ducting a convoy with succours to Captain Bean, ,«i,rv« !,« xwrna aiianlrprl unH nvftrnowftred : as SOOn TTUC21 XIV TT 5X13 «J;ot*v,'«.i.".» • — • j- - ■■ -- - as he saw himself attacked, he boldly led on his 106 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. ii u > valiant troupe sword in hand, but, with one or twd exceptions, they were all left dead upon the field, yet not until, encouraged by the valorous daring of the unfortunate Lieutenant Clarke, they had made a terrible example of their enemies : a solid mass of dead bodies marked the spot where this heroic young man breathed his last ; in the true spirit of English Chivalry his men fought around him whilst he lived, and covered his remains with their dead bodies when he was no more. The weather in September was excessively hot during the day, the thermometer standing often at 110«>and 115Vin the shade; but we suffered far more severely at night, for the camp being between some chalk hills, which, becoming intensely heated by the sun's rays, retained them till the evening, when they returned as to the atmosphere, rendering it excessively close, sultry and oppressive. In these regions the animal frame recovers in the coolness of the night from the exhaustion of the day; but this unfortunate circumstance prevented all hope of rest or sleep, and induced such a feeling of languor that our food was very often left untasted, or taken in pure desperation. An attempt to eat the smallest portion would at once throw us into a state of the most extraordinary perspiration; to leave it uneaten, left the un-recruited frame in such a state of weakness as rendered it totally incapable of performimr anv of the dntips allnffp<1 +n i* ki^ one could lie down on his mattress without imme- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 107 diately falling into a state of perspiration, which entirely saturated his bed and bedding, rendering him obnoxious to the severest cold from the most gentle breath of air which might pass over him. To make matters worse, at this hot season of tb« year, a rash very commonly breaks out over every part of the body, marked by small red pimples, filled with water, and attended by a very severe and uncomfortable irritation. This rash is forced out by the great heat, and is sometimes so bad that men who put on a clean shirt at eight o'clock in the morning, after taking it oflf at eleven, to change, were in such a state, from the rash, that large flakes of flesh would come away with it : so dread- fully painful is the burning irritation of this disease, that men often, although conscious that it is at the imminent risk of their lives, would go down to the river and sit up to their neck in it, for the sake of a few minutes of temporary relief. The political functionaries were unremitting in their endeavours to procure troops from all points, and detachments were daily pouring into Sukkur ; the 38th Regiment of Bengal Native Infantry arri- ved on the 9th of October, in perfect field order ; the right wing of the 40th that same day received instructions to hold themselves ready for a like duty at the shortest notice. Sukkur now became the scene of active preparation, and everything now -_-~« J.lU« n-nw^nnr-n-nna nf imiTIPdinift WSLT. OOmC WOic Xiic appvycii tiiivi-; •"-•I- *«•• — difficulty having arisen in the procuring of trans- I..: hi! ! ■5# 'J 108 SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE. port, in consequence of resistance having been offered by the native Chiefs of Roreeto the parties sent out to procure camels and carriages, Major ^orbes then commanding, ordered the Grena- dier company of the 40th, two companies of Sepoys, and two 6.pounder field pieces to proceed at two hours notice into the Roree District to enforce obedience and compliance. The whole party returned the next day, followed by vast numbers of camels, which, it is presumed, were sent in con- sequence of the sudden appearance of the British Iroops, for their march scarcely attained the im- portance of a demonstration, and of enemies they certamly saw none. My experience in the eastern nations has taught me that there is something in Uie prestige of a British Force, before which the bravest of the Native Troops constantly quail. Had It been a suite of their own countrymen, who so peremptorily demanded carriage, doubtless there would have been much bloodshed, but I have ever seen that when the British wish to effect an oDject, they seldom or never fail. On the 10th of October, the S8th Native Red- ment marched from Sukkur under the command of tapt. Burney, and on the 12th were followed by five Companies of the Queen's 40th, under the command Of Capt. Boscawen, who was ordered on his arrival at bhikai-pore to assume the command of the whole as a Field force, bavins^ hpftn min«ri w «v>^.,* oaa irregular cavalry and two field pieces, then stationed SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 109 at that plaice, which was three days march from Sukkur. Immpdiately on our arrival active mea- sures were adopted to organise the whole force into the most perfect and efficient order — each man equipped for active service, and furnished with extra rounds of ammunition, to he carried in his pack ; his allowance of baggage was reduced to twen- ty-eight pounds weight, including bed and bedding. Each soldier carried his kit, weighing about eighteen pounds ; his musket on his shoulder, his accoutre- ments, bayonet and pouch, containing forty rounds of ball cartridge—a havre-sack containing his knife, fork and spoon, with sometimes two or three days' rations, and also, a tin pot to drink out of; and, in addition to all these, a small wooden canteen, or round flat keg somewhat the shape of a Staffordshire ciieese, but not so large in circumfe- rence, holding, and to carry, about two quarts of water — a tolerably good load for a long march. The general appearance of Shikarpore is very pleasing, but too close inspection shows the prevail- iug vices of the country, tilth and misery. It appa- rently carries on a flourishing trade, and contains a very extensive depot of government stores, for the use of the troops employed in Scinde, Beloochistan, and Cabool. Food was very cheap, and fruit oi many kinds very beautiful, and plentiiul. We had here an exten.-' r^ godown, or store for erain. &.C... and Owinor to tllA oroat cnnnliaa l>rn«<»K* into this town's market, our stocks were kept lip at a 110 SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. cheaper rate ; the plans adopted by the Indian Government were excellent, and, as practice makes perfect, so did they improve, although the expendi- tures from tho coffers of the East India Company were vast indeed. I shall give a brief account of the enormous outlay of several departments, which will give an idea what the total would be. ., CHAPTER V. Desoription of a March in the East; Extreme Change of Wea-' ther; European Constitution; Young Officers; Their Frai8e> worthy Conduct; Preparations for Active Service completed ; Departure of Force; Destination ; Dadur; The Enemy; Nusseer, the Youthful King of Kelat: His Mother, Beebe* Gunjan; His Uncle, Gool Mahomed; Their Efforts to Anni- hilate Small Forces; Attempt to recapture Kelat; Lieutenant Loveday, Bombay N. I.; Massacre of his Force; His life ran- somed by two Banyans; Becomes a Hostage; His Treatment; 21'us8eer's unsuccessful attack on Dadur; Three times De- feated; Arrival at Rojan; Fatiguing March across the Desert ofScinde; Confidence of Captain Boscawen in Lis Men; Cer- tainty of British Valour; Enemy Encamped on the other side; Arrival at the Spot; Decampment of the Enemy towards Kunda; Cavalry despatched after them ; Movement of Force to Kunda; Appearance of the Enemy; Battle; Description of Scene; Private Feelings; General Acknowledgment; My First Battle Field; Prisoners taken; Arrival of Nawab Mahomed Shereave; Sentence passed on Prisoners; Ma- homed's Manner; Anecdote of an English Rifle; Night Alarm; March to Oodana; Want of Water; Encampment o» a Barren Plain. Having fairly got on the march, it perhaps will not be out of place here to give my readers an idea of an army on the line of march in the field, in India as it materially differs from that of one in England, where the soldier, surrounded by countrymen and 112 BOKNKB IN A HOI.DIF.K tl UKIfl. frIimiU, luilt« ftt 801110 town tlio mxm day, woary onou|(!i, I (Ifti'c say ; still thoro U a bllhit, a bed, and « comfortable nical, altlioiigli he has often a long way to go ere he finds out his resting place, owing to some very great inlsnuinageujent In the arrange- ments of billeting in Kurope. 1 lowever, the march in the field proves a very dilVerent seene. Picturo the bustle, confusion, and excitement of an army (m the march, being preceded by the skirmishers luid advance guards, accompanied by the Quarter* Master (General, who, in the most systematic man- ner, on the arrival at the destined encampment, proceeds to calculate the relative dlt^tance reqnhred for each cor[)s and department, and allots it to the parties attached from each regiment, for their fur- ther division. They from practical arrangements, measure the necessary distance for each individual and tent, murking the spot, and awaiting the arrival, which quickly follows. The main body reaches the ground, and each corps marches at once to its quarters. The individual to the site of his palace for the day. Shortly comes the numerous train of baggage, carried by camels, elephants, mules, horses, asses, bullocks, carts, &c. etc, many thousands in number, and followers hv exceeding the number of troops. The followers attached to the various portions of baggage proceed at once to their spots of ground. The tent and its baggage arrive toge- ther, and all is prepared to *^ Pitch Camp." A signal is given, and as if it were by magic, a town, BCENKB IN A soldier's UFA. 113 a fort, and a Htrongfold in formed in a few minutes. OuardH are mounted, pIckctH arranged, and scntricB placed, and all Ih quiet and nettled for the day. The ConnniHHuriut prooeedH to kill the cattle, and issue the provisions. The ba^^gag(! cattle are all sent out to grazes under strong guards, 'i'he bazaars (one to each corps) open their stores of mer(;handise, and expose it for sale, at an enormous and extortionate profit, of which I shall speak more fully in some future chapter. The authorities at the head arc engaged in the arrangement of the objects in view; emissaries are sent out ; chiefs are received and negotiated with for the supply of provisions ; the weary soldier, aftor smoothing down for his domes- tic comfort his parlour of twenty-one inches by six feet, lulled by the aid of that refreshing genius, sleep, be- guiles the long dreary hours of the day, tilled with anx- iety, and overpowered oftentimes with the intense heat, rendered moreso by the trifling protection under canvass.^ At length comes the night, and every precaution having been taken, all is prepared lor a fresh start,.tho cattle arc placed in front of their to- morrow's load, each soul devolves into that earthly heaven, which soon relieves the mind from the world's anxiety and care ; at the dead of night is heard the trampling of the patroles carefully visit- ing the guards and piquets, and the reliefs cautiously challenged by the watching sentries. And shortly after midnight are heard the shrill tnimpets and bugles arousing the tired soldier from the midst of 114 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. perhaps dreams of the happy hours of boyhood anJ home. The sound carries with it a volume of direc- tions; and in a few minutes all is again confusion — yet regularity is there ; all on a tip-toe of bustle— yet all is steady, and each at his place. The camp ap- pears as one blaze of fire from the darkness of the night, and bushes or piles of brushwood collected, being fired to give light to enable the packing and loading to be carried on ; and should you stray a dozen yards perchance it will take you half an hour to find your place again. And I have often seen from the dream of the sleeper t' the move- ment off the ground of more thp" .?0,000 souls and cattle, not more than half an hour elapse. Long ere day dawns, all are again on the march ; the keen morning air striking chilly, through the wea- ried soldier, disturbed from refreshing sleep, and forced to trudge along an unknown path ; all passes on in silence, nothing is heard, save the neighing of the horses and the heavy measured tread of the moving mass of men ; line after line of connected camels and cattle, move on, carefully guarded and guided by the troops and follov/ers, each eye heavy from broken rest, and looking anxiously for the opening of the distant horizon to admit the day, and distribute the welcome rays of the sun, which at first are pleasant in the extreme, but ere a few hours are passed, become even more oppres- sive than the midnight air. All this it is which has 80 much astonished the natives of distant lands, and placed our system at the iop of the tree. SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE. 115 Within a few days the weather Jiad undergone a very complete change, the mornings and evenings were so cold that our wooden canteens, when we arose at day break, were covered with, I had almost said a thick coating of ice ; the mid-day sun was just as hot as ever, and the extreme transitions were very trying to the European constitutions, although I have no doubt even this extreme degree of cold was not without its attendant advantages. I have often been surprised, when on service, to behold how the oflicers, particularly the younger ones, endure the hardships and privations to which they are often and suddenly subjected: many of them are carefully and tenderly nurtured to within a few months of the period, when they may be all at once deprived not only of the luxuries, or comforts, but even of the absolute necessaries of life. The hardships to which the warrior is subject may be told, but not comprehended by those who have not experienced them, and it has often been to me a matter of great astonishment that their minds and energies do not quail before the fearful phalanx of evils, exceeded by none which flesh is heir to. It seems as if nature rises with the difficulties which present themselves, and by taking arms against a sea of troubles, end them indeed ; but in a very different manner i^o the rule laid down in Hamlet's canon. I, myself, have been as tenderly brought up as most in my class, have been educated in a manner to teach me to maka the best of every m 1 ! If 116 aCENES IN A soldier's UPE. thing, and yet at times a leetle inclination to regret my fate has floated tiirough my mind; I have striven to overcome it, and have generally overmastered the feeling. But if such were my sentiments, is it not wonderful that those who felt, and must have felt, their physical privations to be greater than I felt mine to be, should have succeeded ? It was truly gratifying to see how cheerfully our oflicers submitted to that same measure of comfort which was allotted to the men ; cheered by their example, the best effects resulted, and the soldiers, prompted by the zeal and energy of their officers, set to their toilsome duty with earnostuess and good will, and discontent was lost in the eager hope to be among the first, whether on the battle plain or mounting the imminent deadly breach. Every preparation being now perfect, we were in hourly expectation of immediate and active service,, which we were taught to expect would be severe, and most certainly our anticipations were not belied. On the morning of the 16th we accordingly set forth, our first destination being Dadur, a temporary fort,in which Sir John Keane had left a small garrf^on^ our direct progress to which, iis will be seen, w<i« however casually delayed. To understand tho i,«*ude of the sudden movement it will be necessary to digress '^ little from the thread of my narrative. Nusseer ¥ban, son of Merab Khan, the chief of Kelat, :fte %i^ 'a the defence of that place, was a youth otiiiiiccn years- of age, and had been placed by SCENES IN A SOLDIEJl'fi LIFE* 117 "his mother, Bcbce Gunjan, iindt^r the guardianship of an uncle, Gool Mahomed, who having been, with the rest of the family, dri en out of his possessions at Kelat and its vicinity, acting under the advice of his uncle and guardian, as well as his mother and the other chiefs, who continued to share his for- tunes, had resolved to take up arms, collect all his fuiiowers, and endeavour, if possible, to restore the fallen fortunes of his house. He proceeded to attack the British out-posts, and had resolved, if possible, to cut them off in detail, hoping by this means to clear the country of its unwelcome in- vaders. He had gathered a force of about 5,000 men, atl armed, and many mounted. His first effort was to retake Kelat, which had been left with a very weak garrison — one company of Sepoys, commanded by Lt. Lovcday, 6th Bombay N. I. Though up to the moment of attack, everything seemed peaceable and quiet in Kelat, the arrival of Nusseer Khan and his forces was the signal for a general revolt — every Bri- tish soldier was slaughtered on the spot, and Lieut. Loveday was only saved from the' same horrible fate, because, if preserved, the chiefs thought that he might hereaftc^r prove a valuable exchange, and, moreover, great intercession was made for him by two Banyans;* he was, however, detained as a prisoner, closely watched, ai^ji ignominiously drag- • A Banyan is a man of peace. He deals in every kind of merchandise, and is generally a Hindoo, The Banyans ate always exempted from taking up arms. i !> li: 118 SCENES IN A SOLDIEE's LIFE. ged about from place to place as a spectacle. Nu*- seer's next object was to destroy Dadur ; for tbis purpose a large proportion of his force, which was daily increasing, took up an excellent position, about two miles from the fort, and immediately commenced the siege. Three times had he tried to take it by assault, and as many times had he signally failed. Three hundred British troops were sufficient to repel every attack of his numerous host, and the siege was turned into a blockade, and they suc- ceeded in cutting off all supplies, as well as pre- venting the transmission of any correspondence, either to or from the fort. At length the command- ing officer succeeded in forwarding, in safety, a des- patch to the political agent, Lieutenant Postens, then at Shikarpoore, requesting him to send im- mediate help and supplies to Diidur. It was in con- sequence of this requisition that we received our sudden but not unwelcome route. Nothing is more agreeable to a soldier than variety — give him a change, and he cares for no more. We left Shikarpore on the 16th ; on the morning of the 17th we reached Rojan, an extensive village bordering on the Desert of Scinde, known as the Gundavie run, which next presented itself to us ; and news was received by Postens that the enemy were encamped on the other side at a place called Bushera. The distance across this wild expanse of dustv, drifting, stormv plain, was by the nearest cut forty-five miles, and we had then SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 119 marched seventeen, notwithstanding our commander called our attention to the service required at our hands ; and although it was contrary to his wish to har- rasshismenhy forced marches, yet he felt sure that every heart w^ould leap with approhation when be informed us that our enemy was so near, and that it was necessary for the safety of our comrades stationed beyond them, to at once remove the insurgents; why needed our captain for one moment to imagine a single instance of unwillingness ?— it was doing an injustice to the brave heart of a British soldier, for had the distance been thrice multiplied, and he called upon to go, who dares to question our acquiescence? None will, and with such a commander too as Capt. Boscawen, I firmly believe that had difficulties of the most intense nature presented themselves, call- ing upon them to proffer every heart, aye,— and had each had a hundred hearts, alhvould have been de- voted to him and his cause. So on the evening of the 17th, we commenced the march across the bar- ren plain, light as air, and as no water was procur- able on the road, each man replenished his canteen, and several camels were laden with mussocks (leather bags) filled for our use. The night fortu- nately was illumined by a beautiful moon, whose rays aided our guides to navigate the trackless space, and our ma.ch passed off in comparative quietude, and about noon, on the 18th, having reached the desired spot, we discovered that the enemy had left a few hours ago, evidently having been aware s. : 5: ' 11^ 120 SCENES IN A SOLDIEE'a LIFE. Of our approach ; wc found their fires yet unei- - "ng<i«l>ed and the natives of the village reported that they had proceeded to Kunda. Capt. Boscawen immediately despatched our ca- valry to dislodge them if posible, and further be- cause Bushara produced very little water, not sufflcent even for the infantry, for we had to dig smal holes, and filter the muddy water through towels and drink it as thick as milk with clay And after a march of seventeen miles, succeeded imniedmtely by forty-five more without rest, it need hardly be commented on by mc, the exhausted state ot the troops, who had scarce half pitched their ten s when every eye was dosed in sleep, save the scntmcls, who were relieved evciy hour, to enable them to gradually refresh themselves with rest If any of my readers have ever been really fatigued, weary, and nature almost exhausted, they can easily enter into the feelings of this little band • and It IS only those who have experienced these trials' who can truly appreciate the sufferings of those thus situated ; it is all very well to undergo trial and privation, when there is a source from whence you can back it up with refreshment and care, com- forted with friends and homo, but when the same prospect IS before you again and again, without comforts It is then the soldier feels sympathy of the smallest kind to be great. On the moraing of the 19th we resumed our march for Knnda, not without expectation of being SCENES IN A SOLDlER^S LIFE. 121 intercepted by the enemy, who, we had reason to believe, was mustering in strong force before and behind us. We, however, greatly to our satisfaction., reached Kunda,our halting place, about nine, A. M.^ and immediately set to preparing the ground for an encampment. The guards had just mounted, and we were full of activity in our labor of love, when our ears were suddenly assailed, and our senses astonished, by hearing the bugles of the out-posts sound the alarm, instantly answered by those of the main body sounding the assembly. In a few mo- ments every man had donned his clothes and accou- trements, and, having seized his arms, was seen hurrying to the rallying point of his company. Less time was taken to form and tell off the re- spective corps than it would occupy to describe. Well for us it was that we were thus readily prepared, for immediately we were drawn up, the enemy were in sight, crowning the summit of the hills in front of us, in considerable strength. The cavalry was despatched to keep them in check, and the infantry were moved forward to the strongest position which the suddenness of the attack would permit us to se- lect. As all the baggage of the detachment was on the ground, the 38th Regiment (Native Infantry) were ordered to form square around it for its pro- tection. Our right wing was then moved forward to support the cavalry, which was divided into two divisions of one hundred each. We advanced in double time over uneven and rugged ground, taking fli'llli mi 122 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. the enemy in front, whilst the cavalry moved by divi- sions to either flank, narrowing the space as we approached the enemy, until it became evident to himself that our intention was to hem him in, and, if possible, lu prevent his escape: this brought him'to a pause, and as we advanced very close to his front, the cavalry dashed off into a rapid charge, and assaulted him on. both flanks, and we, of course, not being idle in front, gave him a much warmer reception than he had anticipated : about one hundred and eighty of them were cut down; the rest perceiving the fate of their friends, being well mounted, and doubtlessly deeming discretion to be the better part of valour, instantaneously wheeled about, and, owing to the excellence of their houses, were soon safely out of all risk of pursuit, which, owing to our long march, and our ignorance of the face of the country, it would have been extremely difficult for us to make. We were, therefore, ordered to halt : five prisoners only were made upon the ground, one of whom, olTering considerable resistance, was killed, his head being struck off,- the other four yielded quietly, and we returned to our encampment. As we recrossed the field of strife, I counted, and was obliged, in ^roprid persond, to stride over upwards of fifty dead bodies of the enemy. I stood for the first time on the field of slaughter, and I thmk, ages of ages, should I live so long, would fail to obliterate the sensations of those few minutes. The fierce and angry feelings of the strife had passed SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 123 away. I stood upon the ground on which those, I could not call my enemies, for we had never met he- fore, and who a short time since, had stood in the proud array of battle, full of hope and full of con^dence ; and where were they now? — scattered, dispersed, dead! It is a strange situation to be in^to stand calm, cool and collected, amidst the dying and the dead, who have fallen by our own hands, and against whom we have not had one angry feeling, save a country's right, — and that is much. It is well for us soldiers that w^e feel that sensation but once ; the constant recurrence of it would unman us quite. It is not every one who will confess this, but I think I may venture to say, if every soldier whose lot has led him into a similar situation, will confess to himself the true sentiment of his heart, he will I am sure consider with me, as regards the feelings, which is far from being daunted or overpowered by fear, but nature will give vent at times. As we halted, to re-form in our original position, previous to our resuming the march to our encamp- ment, there they lay around us — the scene of death in every direction was awful : there lay, the young, the brave, the beautiful ; the son, the sire, the brother and the friend : headless — limbless — dead and> dying ; some groaning in the agonies of extrem- ity, and thirst — others, iu the last stage of ebbing existence, too weak even to wail, or to weep, — too ex- hausted to ask that drop of water which they would have freely bought, had they the means, with the 124 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. lltj !- li w I i •world's wealth. This was my first action ; wonflcr not that I shuddered at the scenes which on every side met .ny sickened gaze ; and wonder not if, oven in the moment of victory, and the excitement of success, I paused to contemplate the horrors which on every side met my aching sight ; fancy not tim t it was fear — the time of fear has passed when the first shot is heard : hundreds, thousands^ have quailed before the fight, scarce one has quailed In it. The thunder of the cannon, the roar of the musketry, the shouts of the combatants, the bray- ing of the trumpets, the rolling of the drums, the neighing of ihe horses, and the cries of the wounded and the dying, leave no time for fear. The excitement of the battle hurries along the ^coward and the brave: the latter is sometimes distinguished by his presence of mind. Even in the midst of that fearful scene, a sweet, delightful vision rose up to mind's eye, and, as I stood there amidst the mangled and bleeding bodies of my foes, my feet upon their native soil, death, misery, and desolation all around me, I could not repress the thoughts which rose to my mind, in deep and bright contrast to the sad scene around me, and my mind dwelt in anxious suspense for the future on the land of my birth, and the home of my childhood. And I could not but feel too, that for me years must elapse ere that loved scene could again shed its balmj^ sweetness to greet my returning footsteps ; haply that I was doomed never to see it again, never SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 125' to meet the cheerful and happy greetings which ever welcomed my return, even from the short absence of my boyliood's school seasons. If these feelings did obtrude, if they did obtain the mastery, it must, in' excuse, be still remembered that I then stood on my first battle-field. We had now leisure to complete our encampment, and to survey the surrounding country. Kunda was a small town, and at a short distance, which, as' well as all the surrounding villages, wc perceived to be almost entirely evacuated ; they formed the prin- cipal residences of the force by which we had been> attacked, and their ill success was soon well known in every direction. In the course of the afternoon a Nawab, a petty Governor, named Mahomed Shereave, of one of the more distant of the neighbouring villages, and who' was an ally of Sir John Keane, camo down to inves- tigate into the affair. And as we had, during the day, succeeded in discovering several of the enemy who had secreted themselves in huts in the town,, he immediately proceeded to enquire into their con- duct. A small hovel was speedily converted into a justice hall, and Mahomed sat there, and began to examine and condemn the prisoners, brought before liim, and after mature deliberation he ordered about eleven of them to be put to death, and this sentence was speedily carried into execution. When the executions were over Mahomed Shereave offered his services and the aid of two hundred men to Capt. 126 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. ii :l Boscawen, which were readily and cordially accepted/ and it was agreed that he should accompany us to Dadur on the 22nd. Mahomed appeared to be a man of letters, and exhibited a degree of dignity and command not to be resisted by those over whom he exercised authority. His figure was commanding, his height being over six feet, and his form robust, he was armed with an English manufactured rifle, a scimitar sword, a solid shield, attaghan, &c. His rifle excited considerable attention, and many were the surmises as to the manner in, which it came into his possession ; there- were not wanting many who did not hesitate to attribute to him a wrongful possession ; for although he professed himself an earnest and iaithful ally of the British, still he was a Beloochee, and therefore belonged to a class it was very unsafe to trust. Several very exaggerated reports obtained currency; some were of opinion that it was a prize taken from some murdered officer of the British Army, some were charitable enough to surmise that he might have obtained it by traffic ; but the real fact came out at last, that it had been presented to him by an English officer of the grand army, for some former services which he had rendered the British force. Our loss in this short but brilliant affair was one man killed and four wounded ; we had also two horses killed. We captured eighty camels of first- rate quality which were sold, and the proceeds added to the prize money gained by that action. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 127 The Government being at that time greatly in want of cattle, ordered fifty of them to be selected for the Commissariat Department. As the night closed in we received orders to sleep on our arms, and a numerous chain of sentinels sur- rounded the camp, as it was the general opinion that the enemy would make another attack upon us at night. We were not disturbed, and remained re- cruiting our strength until the 22nd, when we march- ed on towards Dadur, via Oodana, and a long and dreary march we found it to the latter place, where we were to halt ; but finding no water we had to continue our march beneath the burning rays of the sun, until we could meet with a stream or spring. The heat was so intense that many of our men faint- ed by the way, and it was seen that the whole force would have to wait until the evening set in. To march in the beat of the day is, in India, fatal to pidny, and it would have been a great risk to sacri- **^Q Europeans, on whose intrepid courage every 'R this expedition depended. About one o't , P. M., Mahomed Shereave discerned, in front, a pool of water ; fortunately, indeed, although in the midst of a plain of the most apparent des- titution and barrenness, an immense plain of dried clay— sun-parched, and cracked bythe over-powering heat — was all that presented itself. We, however, soon arrived at the spot, pitched our'camp, and halted xmtU the next day. And glad indeed we were. I CHAPTER VI. Jknother Retrograde Movement; Interesting Account of one of the Banyans, >vho ransomed the Life of Loveday; Curious Discovery in the Merchant; Sudden Metamorphosis into a young Englishman; A brief History of his career; March to Kotra; Re-appearance of the Enemy; Straggling Shots; 25th Regt., N. L, left at Kotra; Welcome of the Force at Kotr»' by the inhabitants; Havoc made by the Insurgents; Situation of Kotra, with the Gundavie Pass; A Blockade; March to Sunnee; !A Night's March; Distressing Route; We rea^h Seran; Mysore; Departure; Sudden Route; Arrival of Des- patches from Dadur, announcing a Grand Attack on the 2nd November; Necessity of a Keinforcenent at Dadur; Dreadful situation of Troops ; Seven weeks on sentry; Orders to force march to Dadur; Detention of Couriers for Guides; The Mysore Pass; Midnight; Description of Pass ; Previonsr Position ; Sudden Alarm ; Suspicions of Treachery ; Route Intercepted; Discovery of ravine flooded; Impossibility to proceed; Night mt November; Interrogation of the Guides; Their protestation of innocence; Another very long Route discovered; Determination to proceed ; Troops re> formed; Serious reflection; Miseries of the night; Credit due to the Native Troops; The break of day; Poor progress made; Energetic advancement; Determination to accomplish ; Dadur in sight; And bappy welcome. One of the Banyans who ransomed the life of Loveday for 2,000 rupees, was a young English- man, an outline of whose extraordinary adventures X^ mubl givu uv;iC, lu Oiuui iv siuij^my uij laic. xic 8CENES IN A SOLDIES'S LIFE. 129 resided in Kelat, in the character of a Hindoo dealer, unknown to all, and finding that an insur- rection was rising, which would most probably re- sult in the massacre of Loveday and his men, he waited upon him, still disguised,and informed that offi- cer of the rumours alloat ; the ollicer treated the hum- ble Hindoo merchant, as he thought him, with c<m- tempt, and rebuked hi^. ciudacity for even hinting at such a matter. M. remonstrated in vain, and at length left Loveday ; but next day visited him in another form. After a few words on the subject, M, addressed him in English, to the great aston- ishment of the officer, and at length matters were disclosed. And although it was then too late to prevent the unfortunate result that happened, still he said that it was agreed to ransom his life. He informed him that he was not known as an Euro- pean, or he should most certainly share the same fate — and that it was his intention to proceed down the country to the Presidency, there to ar- range his own matters with the Government, in whose secret employ he had been for some years. Lieutenant Loveday gave him a letter to Captain Bean, then resident Political Agent at Quetta, about ninety miles distant, which place he would have to pass. It appears that this young man, in the earlier part of his career, enlisted in the Artillery of the East India Company, remained a few years with thciii iii xjcngai, uuu acciuircu an extensive know- 130 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. ledf^e of the manners, customs, and various lan- guages of the natives of llintlostan, but, from some unexplained reason, became dissatisfied with hi» position, and ran oli". ilo made his way, in the character of a native, for many hundreds of milcs^ towards the Seiiih country, entered tlie service of llunjeet Singh, but soon after left it, and then com- menced a tour in the passes and mountains along llemaylce and Bamean, to Bokhara, begging his way as a " Faqueer." This seemed his delight, and he made some excellent researches, being a tolerably ,well educated man, and kept a note book ia short hand, as in his travelling character he could not carry an extensive oflice. In 1836, when Sir Alex. Burnes was Envoy to the court of Cabool, and passing that way, ho thought it would be as well to make himself known to KSir Alexander, who entered minutely into his ailfiirs, examined his rc- {)orts of the country, and after a strict interrogation into other matters, w^as highly gratified with the information he received. The consequence Avas, that he remained for some time with the Baronet, who wrote to the Presidency, forwarding his opinion, and obtained for him a pardon for his misdemeanor, and a salary of 400 rupees per month, to continue his travels, and reconnoitre the country for the benefit of Government, on which mission he left Cabool to proceed tow^ards Herat and Persia. It so hap- pened that on the road to the latter place, he was attacked bv sickness, and lav ill forsnmo fimo nnij SCENES IN A SOLDI RR's LIFE. 181 after his recovery was detained a close prisoner for a very long period. Now, about this time a report was rife that the Russians were likely to attempt to invade India, via Herat, through Affghanistan, and Scinde — what an absurd idea I — and shortly after this, the atfairs which compose my chapters occur- red. All this time nothing is heard of him, fur- ther than reports arc received that he is in Russia, Bokhara, and the surrounding countries, and in consequence of his, probably somewhat indiscreet- ly, discontinuing to correspond with Government, it was suspected that he had eng^iged with the Russians, and was acting as a spy for them. This impression was intimated to all the political au- thorities about, and all were on the alert ; nothing more was heard of him until the disclosure made by him to Lieut. Loveday, who I mentioned as having given him a letter to Captain Bean, which letter was nothing more nor less than an order to arrest him as the Russian spy, whicJi Captain Bean did ; but he succeeded in refuting the foul imputation, and being released at once, he proceeded down the country towards Bombay, called at the different posts occupied by the British troops, and amused the messes and men with most interesting details of his really hazardous undertakings. This I had from his own lips, and, but that it would digress too much from my story, and would take up too much space, I would say more, but perhaps I may at some fu- ^t-,'^^ ,.-,n-^ln.A nt\A mriva ar\ if T ♦lifvnrrV»+ ii virf\n\A a4- 132 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. II i i ti - all add to the amusement of my friends. He, how- ever, readied Bombay in safety, was received most graciously by the authorities there, and appointed to a situation sufficiently lucrative to enable him to do well ; he was also appointed a member of the Royal Asiatic Society. He is now in Europe, and has figured highly in the literary world, since his return. We resumed our march, our halting place being appointed at Kotra, which we reached without much inconvenience, except a few random shots fired at us by a flying enemy, who hovered around our front and flanks ; but as we had sent out a strong party of active skirmishers, we kept them at a res- pectful distance, and moving steadily on, entered our place of encampmen^, little delayed by their unwelcome attention, and with no loss. On our arrival at Kotra, we found orders awaiting us, de- siring that we should remain there until joined by the 25th Native Infantry, and two field guns, under the command of Major Smea, who made his ap- pearance with his forces on the 24th. We found that an attack had been made on the fort of Kotra by the enemy, who retired on our ap- proach, having first, however, plundered and des- troyed the place, leaving the inhabitants totally destitute of the most common necessaries of life.— The inhabitants welcomed our arrival with every _. J. .J „.^^^ „ ....^^j^_j3^ ivucuiiiig ana lifting up their hands to hail our approach, and to SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 133 implore our protection. We had come too late; the wolf had fled with the lamb, and pursuit would have been fruitless. On the 26th we again set forward, leaving the 25th Native Infantry, and the two guns to defend the place, being a position of importance, as it was situated only six miles N. E. from the entrance of the Gundavie Pass, which lies between very lofty and rugged mountains, and it was not unreasonably supposed that the enemy had wisely secured that narrow, and easily defended defile, where he could with little effort, and less risk, offer a most effec- tual bar to our further progress in that direction ; and as our force was so small that it would have been almost madness on our part to attempt to force it, it was resolved that we should proceed by another and a more circuitous route, leaving the forces named, at Kotra, to prevent the enemy from , leaving the Pass, should they be posted there. We proceeded to Fort Gundavie, and afterwards continued our march to Sunnee on the 29th : this march was very harrassing ; we moved all night, a distance of eighteen miles, through a narrow defile in the mountains, and, shortly after day-light, when we expected to be at our encamping ground, we found we had to traverse five miles of a hot, dry, arid plain, covered with loose stones, such as the English roads are paved with. It is almost impos- <j!.!ji.-u v\j ?^uo\,iiWw LIIC iaLl^UC Ui DUCU il JUUiilUV. to men who had marched without any refresh- 134 SCENES IN A SOLDIEE'S LIFE. ment whatever. The men and cattle were quite knocked up, after having gone twenty hours in heavy marching order. On the 29th we pro- ceeded to Seran, another long march of seven- teen miles, hut not so harrassing as the last, hecause the roads were much better than those we had travelled to Sunnee. It may be easier imagined than described— the condition one would be in to travel across a road like that to Sunnee, a vast plain of loose stones presenting itself, and no alternative but to traverse it, with tender feet, from excessive marching, and fatigue from loss of rest ; but it is impossible to know what can be done, until tried ; had it been laid out to me what I have undergone by way of fatigue, I could never have been brought to think nature could overcome it ; it is well we don't know what is before us. On the 1st November we arrived at Mysore ; as it was a short march of about six miles, we were there about seven, A. M., and had a very grateful and refreshing rest. There Lieutenant Postens re- ceived a communication from the officer command-- ing at Dadur, to say that the enemy had made ano- ther attempt to overcome him, but had failed j he was anxious for assistance, as he expected that another, and the grand attack, would be made on the 2nd, and entreated him to urge with all speed to their succour and defence, the enemy having now very greatly increased in numbers : he also stated that SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 135 the soldiers in garrison had not been in bed for seven weeks, and that they were constantly under arms : and every effective man on sentry, posted double, in order that whilst one watched the other slept beside him; the enemy so constantly hovering around them that they on the piquets did not dare to retire to their tents or guard-rooms. Captain Boscawen immediately issued orders that we should march that evening for Dadur, and that the Tappals, (Couriers,) who had brought the intel- ligence from Dadur, should accompany us as guide: for the route, it having been ascertained that they had come the nearest way. At four, P. M., we commenced our march, and, after having gone three miles, we entered the Pass of the Mysore, which is also situated between two lofty, rugged, and craggy mountains, with butting rocks over- hanging the narrow way beneath, threatening death and destruction at every stride : the Pass was so narrow in some parts, that the camels could not pass along without rubbing against the rocks on either side ; and, as the shades of evening were now beginning to mantle around the pathway, gloomy, even at mid-day, our progress was slow, and became almost nothing when the darkness of night closed around our weary, unknown, and dan- gerous road. Our position was anything but agreeable ; we were in an unknown < luntry, led by two guides equally liable to lead jt to mislead us, and within 136 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 1 I a short distance of a powerful enemy, from whose attacks we were in no way secure ; if they oppo- sed our onward progress we were no match for them, aided as they were by their intimate know- ledge of the localities, and we should be totally without the means of resistance, should they as- sault us, as it was most probable they would, if in no other way, by rolling down upon our long array vast portions of the superincumbent rocks, which would be to them a work of little labour, and to us one of utter destruction. We had set our lives upon a cast, and we felt we must stand the hazard of the die, for we had but one path before us, so we boldly kept our onward way, in spite of, though not unapprehensive of, a fatal result. We were there to face danger, and in good sooth face it we did, for every deep and heavy measured tread of our advancing force, seemed to shake the very rocks beside our path, and more than once we were alarmed by the acci- dental fall of some previously half detached boul- der which came rushing, dashing and bounding down the ste©p and rugged rocky precipice. As we thus pursued our doubtful and weary way unguided, as it so happened, by even one fitful star, the bugle attached to the advanced guard suddenly and unexpectedly sounded the "Halt;" and we soon learned that our progress was stopped by a deep and wide stream of water, which dashed and burst across the road in the depth of the wild gully SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 137 we were then descending. This unexpected obsta- cle, of course, raised suspicion against our guides ; they were immediately stigmatized, and, in our minds, convicted of treachery, and it was at once concluded that they had brought us hither to delay us, and thus enable the enemy to act upon us from before and above simultaneously, and whilst our column was in confusion, more than one voice de- manded their instant execution as spies, and trai- tors. Lieut. Postens, however, who was very con- versant in their native language, proceeded to exa- mine theiii, when they positively declared that when they passed the defile in the morning the water was not more than two inches deep ; — it was now more than ten feet, and had increased proportionably in breadth, and with a very strong current to-boot. They attested the truth of their assertions, by swearing by the most binding of their oaths, by the stars, and by Mahomet. When Lieutenant Postens found them thus pledging their truth by the most sacred oaths, he felt half inclined to think with them, that the flood had been turned through the Pass by the enemy, to prevent our progress, should we attempt to move towards Dadur by this route, and as it is a national characteristic to turn the floods of their various streams in many difife- rent directions,-— and which to them, owing to the nature of the soil, is not a very difficult task, — this explanation seemed so much like the truth, that it was resolved to retrace our steps, and by 138 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. another but far more circiiitous route. We did not abandon the attempt until several ineffectual efforts had been made to cross the stream j for could we have succeeded, the l*ass would have given us very great advantages in our attempt to relieve Dadur. The road lay quite close under the mountainsj be- tvven which and Dadur, lay r- -./.mp of Nusscer Khan, and it had been chosei. enable us to get into their rear ; this would have exposed them^o an attack from the Dadur force in front, and by ourselves from the rear and Hanks, by which means they would have been most certainly entirely defea- ted, and, perhaps totally annihilated. Our morti- fication at being obliged to return was very great, for we were at most not more than six miles from them, when we were thus unwelcomely checked. ^ Our situation was now one of great and anxious difficulty ; we could not safely conclude what steps to take, whether to turn, or what to resolve upon. In this state of uncertainty, one Ailse step might prove our destruction ; and if the enemy had really turned the water course across our ^ ath, we had reason to believe that they would take equally ef- fective means to prevent our advance by any other route towards Dadur. The darkness of the night, and the difficulty of the Pass, had all but destroyed our formations ; each soldier had lost his comrade, and like an ill-assorted pack of hounds, we had no confidence in the advice of those we knew not. «i^fc«aM xjOD\.anvu puruuiveu luis easiiy-to-oe-reuie- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 139 (lied difficulty, and ordering the buglers to assemble each company by its own call, order was very spee- dily restored. The men thus again surrounded by their old familiar comrades soon recovered their confidence, and wliilst our leaders were anxiously engaged in discussing the most eligible plan of future operations, the men began to amuse each other with their reckless wild wit and uncouth practical jokes, thus giving a striking proof that even in doubt, danger and diniculty, circumstances cannot effectually daunt the heart of the Bri- tish soldier, and gives an additional proof that however trying his position, his courage and resources always rise with the surrounding dan- gers. The guides having been carefully re-examined, one still pertinaciously adhered to his opinion that he could lead us safely to Dadur by another road, and although we were informed that it would be adding twenty miles to our march, the confident assurance was received with a truly British cheer, and every man was impatient to proceed. The buglers sounded attention, the strictest si- lence was observed, and we received, in short but clear orders, what would be expected from us, and although we had then marched sixteen miles in the darkness of night, and over roads of uncommon difficulty, wc proceeded at once to obey. The " Ad- vance," or rather it should have been the " Retire," 140 11 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. was sounded about midnight, and we yet hoped to reach Dadur early in the forenoon. Many an anxious eye was turned to the point from wliich the day should dawn, as our small army slowly dragged its weary length along. After some time the moon rose clear and bright, above the dark outline of the gloomy rocks : her welcome rays shed a bright beam upon our path, which ena- bled us to make far better progress than we previ- ously had done— they gladdened our hearts, and called forth that energy and buoyancy which ever accompanies the light, and we trudged on with re- doubled vigour, enabling us by increased activity to resist the bitter coldness of the night, which was almost too much for the native troops, who, how- ever, deserved the highest praise for the courage and exertion with which they struggled against that which is to them the most unendurable of ills this mortal flesh is subject to— the night cold. When the day light broke upon us, and the wel- come and cheering rays of the sun began to glow over the sublime scenery, we were all far better able to encounter the fatigues of our march, but . they revealed to us the unwelcome fact that we had made but little progress. However, we reached Dadur about eleven o'clock, A. M., on the 2nd of November, to the great joy and relief of the force, holdmg possession of the fort. They consisted of a few companies of native infantry, with four ^uns SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 141 manned by native artillerymen, (Golundauze,) who made speedy arrangements to join us in attacking the enemy, who had so long held them in durance vile, and whose camp we could see in full pre- paration for the forthcoming conflict. 111'*- i' '■'i'i m lii: CHAPTER Vir. Preparations for Battle; Euorgy of the little Drummers; Con- junction of the Dailur Force; P(»siti()n tukon up by Muhomcd Shereuve; Captain Boscawou'surrungenient; Young Malcolm's Cavalry; TheAdvance; Tosition and Movements of the Enemy; Discovery of a Trick; Siuklen Retreat of the Foe; Admirable Practice of our Artillery; A Noble Cavalry Movement; Th« decampment of the Enemy; Ketreat into the Bolun Pass; Vexa- tious Scene; Advance to the Deserted Camp; Appearance of an European Tent; Distressing scene; Tho Discovery of tliG murdered body of Lovediiy; Ilia last breath; His ser- vant; His situation; Story told by him; Brutal treatment ; Gool Mahomed, the instigator; Feelings of the Troops; Two of tho Enemy found secreted; Effects of drunkenness; Hints to Soldiers ; Dangerous position; Slight wound; Too much sanguinityat times dangerous ; Necessity of implicit obedience in the Service; Ability of Commanders; 38th Kegiment, N. I., left in charge of Prize; Encauipment; Dadur; Its situation with the Bolun; State of the Troops; Burial of Loveday; Description of British Stronghold at Dadur; The severity of the climate; The effect of the water; Painful malady; Scar- city of Provisions; Annoyance of tho Enemy; Troops always under Arms; Original recipes for, cooking; Precaution of Major Boscawen; 38th Regiment ordered up the Pass is weather bound. We were immediately deployed into line, piled arms, and lay down to take a few moments rest, TT«sxi^-f vii.\.- pitiiji u-i v^uiiitiuiia v» ao uiBCUBSCu UV 1116 principal officers. There was not one in the whole t fit ii^l III SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 143 detacliment who would not liavo slept gladly for a few hours, but an important task lay before us; at a distance of something less than three miles, the enemy's camp was seen stretching from the north to the west. Their forces were drawn out and prepar- ing to move towards us, and the approaching sound of their tom toms (drums) was heard ; but I doubt if they inspired the courage of the enemy more than they aroused that of our forces. Britons do not love to be challenged, and it is difficult to restrain their impetuosity when they behold an advancing foe. At the first sound of their tom toms, our officer gave orders to our drummers to sound the fall in ; and in real earnest the little fellows laid on, as if they thought victory alone could be won by the energy of their response. Anxious as the moment was I could not help recalling to mind Faulconbridgc's Dauphin : Start An echo with the clamour of thy drum, And ev'u at liand a drum is ready braced That shall revorb'rate all as loud as thine. Sound but another, and another shall, As loud as thine, rattle the welkin's ear, And mock the deep-mouth'd thunder. Shakapeare : King John. We were speedily in order of battle, and ob- tained from the fort, if fort it could be called, the assistance of the few cavalry attached to their gar- liouiz, iiJiu L n u Oi liiuii guiio, uic iuiiuur uiiuui mu command of young Malcolm, who was an oflScer ia 144 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE; f| tho service of Sliah Shoojah, and a promisinj^ youth lie was — and seemed delighted with the prospect of being freed from his prison, and if possible, giving his oppressors a sound drubbing. Wo awaited tlie slow advance of the enemy with great impatience ; at length their advancing line halted, and their cavalry moved a short distance to their front, to cover as it were some intended operation, which seemed to have for its object a more ready communication with the BolunPasH,which was some- what more than a mile to the rear. Orders were immediately issued to Mahomed Shercave to ad- vance, accompanied by a detachment of infantry, to a small hill which commanded the entrance to the Pass, and whence he could proceed to attack the enemy, should he ad\'ancc, or to annoy him should he attempt to retire into the Pass. The bugles sounded to the main body the welcome sound to " Advance ;" and the object of the enemy now being evident, as he had brought his cavalry to keep us in check whilst his infantry, or rather rabble, secured their retreat by the Bolun Pass, Capt. Boscawen ordered the artillery to play upon the retreating masses of infantry; at the same moment we advanced to the attack of their cavalry line, and Mahomed Shereave to that of their retreating infixntry. The conduct of Mahomed's force wab admirable ; they took advantage of the confusion which the liurried retreat of the infantrv had thrown them into, and which was greatly SCENES IN A SOLDI Eli 9 LIFE. 145 increased by the dense crowd being jammed into tlic narrow deliles. Tlie number of deud found after tiro action amounted to nearly .300, and all in a narrow 8[)ace ; indccMl they were slaughtered in heaps — the dying falling upon the dead I In the meantime we advanced cheerfully and eagerly, but slowly, towards the line of cavalry, as we had to cross a plain intersected by deep and strong streams of water, and broad " nulhis," or ditches, winch greatly increased the harrassing na- ture of tl^ ground over which we had to pass. And as we did, the enemy's cavalry still continued to retire before us, at intervals, and very slowly. By the time that we had come within musket range they perceived that their object had been attained ; their remaining infantry had gained the Pass, and they immediately faced about and fled with the rapidity of a route, leaving their camp equipage entire, and a large quantity of treasure. It was, however, not without vexation that we beheld the imijority of the enemy we had taken so much pains to get at, thus scampering off almost unharmed, and unscathed, dashing up the, to us, apparently almost inaccessible sides of the mountains ; our guns played at intervals with grape and spherical shot, admirably aimed, so as to burst and meet the ascending foe on the sides of the cliffs, and it was the only satisfaction left us to see them fall by dozens on the explosion of each shell, as they were driving furiously into the Boluu pass hy a route SCENES IN A SOLDIEE'S LIFE. which secured them from the attack of Mahomed's cavalry, even had they been strong enough to venture upon a pursuit, which they were not in any one particular, principally owing to the long and fatiguing march which their horses had performed the night before. Our skirmishers, who consisted of about one third of the Europeans, being called in, and who, we were glad to find, had met with Httle loss, and being once more together, our atten- tion was now turned towards the deserted camp, in the midst of which we perceived a very handsome European officer's tent, which had met our gaze on our first !^et' out towards their encampment, and which we supposed to be one taken in the overthrow of some small force, which was now become a daily occurrence. On our arrival at the deserted camp, 1 with two or three others, ran immediately to the tent, and alas what a spectacle presented itself I There lay the body of poor unfortunate Loveday, with his throat cut, and who had about that moment breathed his last. A native boy was weeping across his mangled body, who turned out to be his servant, the only one allowed him, and that in con- sequence of his being a Mahomedan, and who used to cook for him, which none of the Brahoe or Mm-ree Tribe composing the enemy would. This native, who had faithfully followed and served his master in oppression as well as in affluence, gave a most melancholy narrative of the treatment of Lt. . Loveday during his career as a prisoner in their SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 147 hands. We found the body in the tent laid on a small piece of carpet, with nothing to cover him save a pair of cotton " pajamas" or drawers. He was barefooted, and his ancles were lacerated, owing to the friction of the chains then upon him. Two pieces of paper were near him ; one was addressed to his dear sister, and the other, a partly written one, to a friend. It appeared from the tale told by the servant, that every time the enemy moved their camp, poor Love- day was placed on a camel, a most uncomfortable beast to ride, and taken with them, well watched, and often had to walk in tho state mentioned, except that his man sometimes gave him his turban to pro- tect his head from the heat of the sun. Often after arriving in camp has he been exhibited in the bazaar, and buflfeted by new comers of their tribes, and beaten if he attempted to remonstrate. And often has he expressed a sincere wish for them to serve him as they did the small force he commanded at iielat ; but as often they refused, and seemed to take delight in being insolent and oppressive. He uttered exclamations of delight when he heard the report of the shots from his friends, and his heart throb- bed with joy at the prospect of being so soon amongst them, little dreaming his fate was allotted, and the assassin in waiting, so barbarously to take his life ; for it was arranged, on the appearance of our forces in the front of Dadur, that should they prove victorious, Loveday should be killed ; but thie 148 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. servant stated positively tliat Nusseer was against the murder, Gooi Mahomed hcin^^ the solo instigator, for early at the time of our advance, Nusseer, with his mother, were the first that fled into the Pass, and Gooi gave directions that the last leaving the ground should cut the prisoner's throat, which was most peremptorily carried into elfect; a deed of douhle shame on the perpetrators of so foul, and cowardly an act. Kevenge seemed to call aloud from every hreast, and although ui)wards of forty-four hours had passed since tliey had tasted food or slept, and were of course extremely fatigued, and, in fact, almost Qxhausted, they would cheerfully have pressed forward had they been called upon to join in the pursuit of the ruthless, and cold blooded murderers. In the same tent were found four boxes containing valuables, which, together with the camp military chest, &c., were seized upon as prizes. On emerging from the tent we began to recon- noitre the captured camp, and I and a serjeant of the force were proceeding to a email tent, or rather a rug thrown over three crossed sticks, when from amongst a heap of bundles rushed out two of the enemy, overpowered with opium, and other intox- icating drugs, who, in consequence, had become so stupified that they were unconscious of their dange- rous position— I regret to say, as is too often the case amongst soldiers, who fbrget their duty, and seem to take a pleasure ii? rendering themselves unfit for it by inebriety. In a future chapter, I SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. U9 fain St the istigator, eer, with the Pass, Lviiiff the hich was deed of foul, and [)ud from jrty-four or slept, , in fact, i pressed in in the irderers. ntainin^' military recon- •jeant of r rather en from of the r into.x- come so • dange- ften the iy, and mselves tpter, I shall have to speak, much against my will, of the awful consequences of drunkenness amongst the soldiers in the field, the relating of which, if read by a soldier, will, I am sure, cause him almost to shudder at the result. How careful should the men be of that simple virtue — sobriety I when they know that the safety of their comrades, the honour of their corps, and the maintenance of their country's fame, depend on the conjoined steadiness of the army at large ; and how terrible it must be to the consciences of those men, in their sober moments, to reflect, and find, that in consequence of their dissipa- tion, they have been not only ciphers and useless members to aid in the duties required of them, but a burden to those who were called upon to perform the duty, wliich their sovereign requires. I shall, however, forbear here to dwell much on the too many serious consequences of drunkenness amongst the soldiery, as it will shortly occur, that the relation of certain incidents, immediately con- nected with this subject, will call for the remarks, which I would otherwise give here, and would fain find it out of my power to give at all. They n*- tacked us, and one succeeded in cutting down the sergeant, by a blow with the sword, which pene- trated his cap and cut his ear ; the blow was scarce- ly given when the giver lay lifeless, for at that mo- ment I fired, and the ball went into his head ; at uiiivihuiiavc who had just risen from a drunken sleep, and knew wo SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. l*fw .i not of the retreat of their force, had lost his sword, and seizing upon a large knife, some twenty-eight inches long, rushed at me and made a blow, which I guarded with a musket I had in my hand ; but J received a slight cut in the left hand, as I held the piece at the charge, and I inserted the bayonet, which went quite through him, and forced him down, never to rise again. Several seeing the dan- ger we were in, incautiously fired at them, and though we were so near them, they very fortunately missed me, though one ball grazed the serjeanf s epaulette. Though no damage was done, it gave a lesson, that soldiers, although it generally is good to be sanguine and valiant, should wait for the orders of the officers over them, whose superior judgment in the time of need, I have, in nine cases out of ten, seen to be used most effectually, with sound judgment and rea- son. And although there may be many a Nelson and Wellington in our lower ranks, still, when com- mand is entrusted to one, who convinces all of his ability to act, let every soldier study steadi- ness, and strict obedience, forbear rashness, and put implicit confidence in his officers, whose intrepid conduct I have proved to be most praise- worthy. The 38th Regiment was ordered to remain on the ground until the whole camp taken as prize was taken to Dadur, near to which, the remainder of the forOft WAS rPItinVAfl Qr\f\ ihaTT fn.vmnA 4i.^:~ r.^^ .. . ^-,,j „...,,vi txavj iViiUCVi LllCli CUUUillli-" ment. Each man took some hasty refresnment, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 151 which the native cooks were preparing in the strong- hold during the affray, and within two hours from the firing of the last sliot, save the guards, and those on sentry, there was not a sleepless eye in the whole encampment. Dadur, situated about four miles from the entrance of the Bolun Pass, is a rude town, and has but lit- tle traffic ; it contains about 5000 inhabitants ; the fort is an unimportant work, being simply a breast- work, erected to protect some store-houses, with the additional Security of a surrounding moat, or trench. The enemy had plundered the town, and all the surrounding villages, of every thing they could remove, and in some instances had destroyed their dwellings, leaving the inhabitants in a per- fect state of destitution, which we could pity, but were unable to relieve. Lieutenant Loveday was buried on the follow- ing morning, with every military honor our capabi- lities would afford, for we could not spare powder for the due form on these occasions, and the whole force saw the last rites paid to him with feelings of profound grief, as they laid him down, to take his last rest in a soldier's grave. There was some- thing peculiarly painful and distressing to see a noble-minded youth thus cut off in the day-spring of life, by murderous and felon hands ; there was something inexpressibly sad in the reflection, that J 1- J .1 !_l-_ J " ;u ne wno nau ueen ueiovuu aua cuuriouca hy the kind, the good, and the gentle, should be thus con- 152 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, signed to the dark shade of the valley of death, unwept by one of all those who had known and loved him in his infancy, and in his childhood. That of all the friends and relatives who had watched his dawning years, there was not one who could know that he was dead, until months had elapsed since the hands of strangers had deposited his mutilated body in a solitary grave, in the midst of the wild deserts of a distant and foreign land. " We thought as we hallowed his narrow bed, And smoothed down his lonely pillow,* That the foe and the stranger would tread o'er his head, And we far away on the billow. " Lightly they'll speak of the spirit that's gone, And o'er his cold ashes upbraid him — But little he'll reck, if they'll let him sleep on. In the grave where a Briton has laid him." - Wol/e. Our camp was now arranged, and all made as secure as possible. The force had sujQfered much in the breastwork, which had been erected as a depot for grain, &c., for transmission up the passes — it was nothing more than a hard wall, about eight feet high, and surrounded by a trench about twelve feQt deep and twenty wide— in this there was erec- ted a temporary citadel, for four guns in the centre, a barrack for about two hundred men, stabling for about fifty horses, and rather extensive granaries for stores. During the repeated attack of the ene- niV for thP. Insf fivp mnnflia iha mnn U^A ,»«,. — ,- •. , .. »..-.-.xii.i^,-, fiivr XilV/ii *IC%Vi XlCVCi been unaccoutred— were continually under arras, SCENES IN A SOLDIEE'S LIFE. 153 and for seven weeks previous to our arrival, had all been postod as double sentries, one sleeping 'neath the wall, whilst the other watched, and wak- ing his comrade to relieve him at the appointed time, as mentioned in the last chapter. Every one was alike, and most unremittingly did they labour, and succeeded in keeping possession — and how gladly were they relieved when we approached 1 their first trial became as nothing, and all was again free. After a few days the enemy began to re-appear, and alarm our guards at night — the wea- ther, too, began to grow very cold, even so much so, that by the end of November, although the heat of the day would raise the thermometer invariably to 125°— I have seen it 139"— the same night would bring ice on our kettles of water, and was, indeed, very trying to the constitution of us young campaigners, having no other protection from these varied powers than the canvas tents. The water we procured, issued from the mountains by which we were surrounded, and was from a spa, the rock producing much lead and copper, and occasioned much unpleasantness amongst the troops, in the shape of large boils breaking out over the body, and our hospital tents became crowded with men in sound health, but disabled in consequence of this painful malady. Almost nightly would our troops be turned out three or four times, owing to some our pickets, and in consequence all men fit for duty 1.54 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. '■ were constantly accoutred. From the 10th November, 1840, until the 13th of January, 1841, they never knew what a sound night's rest was, nor free from being equipped and lying on their arms. Food was extremely scarce, the Commissariat supplies being very so so. The men, for want of tea or coffee, used to burn small biscuit crumbs black, pound and boil them, and make a sort of wet and warm mixture, minus taste or sweetness — but hun- ger knows not delicacy. When biscuit became scarce, we had to grind wheat with a hand mill, mix up the coarse flour or chaff', add a little bitter rock salt, &c., like alabaster, and in order to bake it, dig a large hole in the ground, fill it with ashes, throw in the dough, and after it had been in the fire for some hours, it became not a bad though coarse loaf. Our original ideas of cookery were much practised, and many a lesson was learned. A mode of cooking a fowl has since assisted me often when travelling, and is certainly very simple : kill the fowl, enclose in clay, feathers and all together, put it in amongst hot ashes, much the same way as the loaf, and in an hour it will turn out, plucked and deliciously cooked. So much for experience. Thus we car- ried on for weeks, during which time our small corps of cavalry were always booted and saddled, and our few guns loaded ready for action. The precautions taken by Major Boscawen, (who just now ffOt his nrftlTiftfion 'i in rwavan 1..^ atfwrxnttcirk were most admirable, and were carried out in a SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 155 manner that proved the confidence we aU felt in our leader. The quiet, gentle, and systematic manner in which Captain White, 40th Regiment, performed the duties of staff officer over our little army, will not be soon forgotten by those who were present at Dadur in November and December, 1840, and January, 1841 ; he showed in this his preliminary step or outline service, which was most fully ap- preciated by the Government, how most deserving he was, and it will be seen ere I leave off this narrative, that Captain White proved himself a thorough soldier, and worthy of all he afterwards gained. When the enemy became tired of his ineffectual campaign, he again retired into the mountain fastnesses, and the 38th Regiment Native Infantry J which had been relieved by the 2nd Grena- dier Regiment, was sent up the passes to Candahar, but were weather bound by the snow, which com- pletely blocked up their route. CHAPTER VIII. Sojourn at Bad ur; Tho Kotra Force; Ntissecr still determined j lieutenant Chamberlain; Colonel Marshall at Kotra; En- campment of tho Enemy near Kotra; Secret Expedition; Silent preparations for Battle; Midnight Surprise; Glorious Victory ; Escape of Nussccr ; Dreadful loss amongst the Enemy; Colonel Stacy at Quotta; His Directions to Hego- oiate ; Unjust liberality of tho British ; General Brooks j A largo jForce for further Exploits; Evidence of another War; Assembly of a Grand Army at Sukkur; Its March to Mungal Ka Shier; Loft Wing 40th with tho Grand Array; Orders for the Right Wing to join Head Quarters; Second Grenadier Regiment left at Dadur; March to Mungal Ka Shier; Arrival at Aji Ka Shier; Route thereto; Night marching, Defile; Arrival in Camp at Midnight; Commissariat lost; Bad look- out; Camp Surprises; Recollections of Major Clibborn's mishap; Despatches to Dadur; Collection of a meal; Arrival of a lost friend; Conjunction with the Grand Army; State of the Country; Position and Power of Political Agents; Demand on Kojuk for Tribute ; Proremptory liofusdl ; Attempt at a Breach ; Colonel Wilson defeated and wounded ; Rascally conduct of the Sepoys; Daring Exploit of fifty European Artillery; Serious loss; The Storm; Fall of its Commander, Lieut. Creed. As we are sojourning here some time, 1 cannot do better than collect the exploits of the detached por- tions of our force together, and let my readers lmi-»T»T rkrvTUT IXIIV TT LIXJ TT 4lir*Tr nfi/\-^ r\t ^-J t^"" Uil. 1^ TUTilI Vkrw ■•*/\*v^rfc-»v%T%i-fc**rk^ XI, IT ill k;x^ x\:;iiiciiiUcxcu that the 25fh Regiment of Native Infantry, with SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 167 two guns, wcrQ left at Kotra, to hold the entrance to the Gundavie Pass, which Nussccr took care to keep ; and lindhig liiinsclf overcome by the Dadur party, he worked round by a route over the nionn- tains of the Bolun, towards Gundavie, and prac- tised several inana5uvres to annoy us, which to a certain extent, liad effect, inasmuch as they har- rassed the troojjs in the manner described in the last chapter,— and Nusscer, not willing to g!ve himself up to the British, and let his misled force return to their homes, resolved to annihilate the small force at Kotra. The few men there, after we left, had been increased by two troops of Skinner's and Haldine's Local Horse, one commanded by Captain Hakline, and the other by Lieutenant Chamberlain. Tlie valiant, noble, and courageous conduct evinced by the latter officer will be seen in several future chapters. The whole was under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Marshall, 25th Native Infantry. Nusseer took up his position here similarly to the one taken up at Dadur, L e. betwixt the hills of the Pass and the Kotra camp. Major Boscawen, who left no means untried to pro- cure information, learned from his emissaries, Nus- seer's intentions, which he communicated to Marshall , who also had received information, and had already arranged his plans to attack the camp of the young Prince, and, if possible to take him. Colonel M. ordered the maioritv of his force to prepare to march that evening, or at a moment's notice, without tents, 158 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. or any camp cqnipago, or baggage whatever— to carry some provisions with them, and to move as silently as possible. Nusscer was to arrive at his ground at sunset, and to pitch camp four miles N. W. of Kotra, in a valley approaching the Pass. Marshall directed his force to move at dusk, and all proceeded without a word; they advanced by a somewhat circuitous route, and every word of com- mand was passed down the ranks in almost a whis- per ; every precaution was taken to prevent the glittering of any of the arras or appointments ; and after the night had well set in, and the guns were brbught up, they continued to move on, until they came in sight of the fires of the enemy, who little suspecting a foe was so near them, were bu- sily employed cooking their victuals,, and others, with the exception of a few of their anything but alert sentries, had retired to rest for a few hours as, at midnight, it was intended by them to have sur- prised Marshall's camp. The Colonel, after having satisfactorily worked round, arranged his force so as to cover as much as possible the whole length of their camp. The cavalry were posted so as to effect a charge ; but the danger lay in this move- ment as to whether they might not kill each other, if they came into a personal contact with the enemy, in the dark ; all being the same color, — for it must be made known to my readers that the Local Horse having no precise uniform, — it would be some- wLai dimcuit iu distinguish them, so situated ; how- SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. 159 ever, they flanked, and the artillery were well sup- plied with grape and shell. All was quiet and pre- pared — the very horses seemed conscious of the pro- ject, and forbore to neigh, — and the Colonel at length got within musket range, in ambush, leaving the cavalry a short distance in rear, lie at length gave the word, and let fly into them a volley from all pieces in the front ranks, and in another minute a second from the rear ; the whole being immediately reloaded, they charged into the camp. Tlie enemy were so stunned, and taken so much by the sur- prise they had intended for us, that they knew not their duty, and many suffered themselves to be cut up without offering even resistance ; and few, in- deed, escaped to tell the tale of woe. The exact numbers killed on this occasion I cannot say, — but I know it was several hundreds, with but one casu- alty on our side. Nusseer on this, as well as every other occasion, managed to elude the vigilance of the attempts to secure him, but how or where it eould not be ascertained ; however, this havoc and mishap caused him to reflect and see the probable result of so foolishly attempting to overthrow the British Forces. He took to the hills and fled to- wards Quetta, and the few remaining of his force left him and returned to the villages which they had deserted in their country's cause. The gallant Mar- shall returned with his brave little band to his camp, crowned with a victory worthy of being rer corded in our annais to the world's end: for never 160 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. was the overthrow of a treacherous enemy so com- pletely accomplished as that by Lieut. Col. Mar- shall's small force of the 25th Native Infantry, Local Horse, and the Native Artillery at Kotra. Colonel Stacy, then at Quetta, received inti- mation of the flight of Nusseer, who, though a boy, had caused so many disasters, and wrote to the Government on the subject, who directed that he should endeavour to negociate with him, and bring him in, under promises of protection and other advantageous terms. The Colonel made several attempts after him with a mere guard, and several times came in siglit of him, but could not effect an interview, and at length returned to Quetta. Oh, John Bull ! thou art too liberal to thy foes : the fable of the woodman and the viper is very applicable to thee. Major-General Brooks was busily engaged as- sembling a large force at Kurrachie and Sukkur — consisting of two Brigades, the first commanded by Brigadier Valiant, and the second by Brigadier England — to be in readiness to proceed to the upper provinces. From these proceedings it was evident that the war in Affghanistan would be very shortly resumed in good earnest ; — and in December, General Brooks assembled his whole force at Sukkur, whence he moved by easy marches to Mungal-Ka- Shier, about twenty-four miles from Dadur. We were now fiill of anxious anticipations, and were greatly surprised that we had not received a letter of rea- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 161 'SO com- )1. Mar- Infantry, iotra. ed inti- h a boy, to the that he id bring id other several I several ilTect an hy foes : is verv ged as- ikkur — nded by rigadier le upper evident ' shortly cember, Sukkur, ?al-Ka- Vevrere greatly of rea- diness to rejoin our head quarters, which we under- stood formed a part of the newly organized force. We had no wish to be left longer to rusticate— or rather, I should say, to rust, at Dadur, and it was with a deafening and an enthusiastic shout of joy that we responded to the order of readiness that was promulgated to us on parade on the 1st of February, that we must be prepared to march on the 2nd to join the Left Wing, and to leave the 2nd Grenadier Regiment in charge of Dadur. Our baggage was soon in marching order, and on the 2nd of Febniary, full of joyous hope, and eager anticipation, we commenced our route to join the army via Aji-ka-Sheer ; the march was long and tedious, as we had to pass through a defile six miles in length ; the roads were very stony, and resembled nothing in nature that I had ever seen, except a stone quarry immediately after a powerful and extensiv- blast ; huge masses of stone were strewed upon the path in every direction, and the dismal and hollow echo of the measured tread of the advancing troops, in the dead hour of the night, did not much contribute to make our pro- gress either more easy, pleasant, or agreeable. " Time and the hour run through the roughest day," arose to my mind, but brought little consolation ; I remember I once repeated it to my comrade, and parodied it by saying, " Would I were time, or the hour, in this rough way 1" L 162 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, Patience and perseverance, it is said, will do wonders ; on this occasion they worked what may be called a miracle, for they brought us through the defile, and when we gained the open country, we got on better, as the road greatly improved, but it lay through a jungle of large extent, and there being no regular cut roads, the different detachments lost each other in the dark. When the day dawned, we fortunately found ourselves at no great distance from the appointed halting place, but some of our companions were not so fortunate ; at length all arrived except the most important department of all— the Commissariat— the department which could be the least spared of all. — Like Shakspeare's Hal, there were few of us but could have said, " I could better spare a better man." We had been marching all night, and we had, of course, carried a very small portion of re- freshment with us, and that small portion had been long since despatched, and thus we were depend- ing for our supply upon that, which was not yet come. Every one asked our Commissariat officer, where are they ? and hungry men, as echo, cried where are they? Men were sent out in diiferent directions to look for them ; they fired off their muskets and pistols, they hallooed and shouted, and called, but the more they hallooed, shouted and called, the more they would not come. Their con* tinned absence gave 4dat to all sorts of surmises and suppositions; it was supposed that some ac- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 168 will do at may )ugh the try, we lutitlay e being nts lost T found pointed ^ere not le most ariat — iofall. ' us but better md we I of re- d been lepend- lot yet officer, >, cried liferent [f their louted, ed and ir con- irmises me ac- tive party of the enemy's cavalry had succeeded in cutting them off, but then, this could not be, for we had not heard a shot fired, and would Britons yield without one struggle? Oh I no— that could not be. It was then conjectured that they had confi- ded in some treacherous guide, who had misled them, and placed them in the power of the rebels — here, then, treachery could be suspected. This was, indeed, a more reasonable conjecture than the for- mer, for we called to mind the sad and unfortu- nate affair of Major Clibborn, of the 1st Grenadier Regiment, Native Infantry, who, when conducting a large convoy of stores and treasure from Sukkur, engaged two guides, who proved to be spies, and led the force into the very mouth of the foe, who succeeded in cutting off nearly the whole of his men, and capturing upwards of six hundred camels, bearing the baggage and treasure besides ; his Ser- geant Major, and a warrant officer named Shean, only escaping. This sad reverse of fortune will ever be remembered with regret, as the difficulties and the improbability of success are so numerous that they cannot be imagined, unless by those who suf- fer by it — and let it not be judged harshly or un- wisely, but bear in mind that circumstances alter cases. Mean time it was discerned that conjecture and supposition were no substitutes for provision and arrack, and that talking only made men more hunsrrv. and it was resolved to despatch a commu- nication to Dadur, stating the predicament we were 264 SCENES IN A soldier's LWM, Mt I placed in, and to request that two days supply of provisions might be forwarded immediately, and at the same time, Major Boscawen proceeded to the town, near to which we were halted, and purchased as much food as he could procure, for our present pressing necessities,— -which he immediately issued out to the men, who at once set to, to make up for lost time— and having first solaced the inward man, with the more solid comforts of this world, they next sought for happiness and enjoyment in that land of rest and quiet, which soldiers call the Land of Nod. When we awoke, we were delighted to see that the first supply from Dadur had arrived in camp, and the Quarter-Master and his assistants a& busy as they possibly could be, making arrange- ments to issue out a fresh supply to the troops ; his operations had scarcely ceased, when our own Commissariat came in sight, nawindeed, like a use* less Alexandrine, dragging its weary length along. Never, perhaps, did the arrival of the Commissa- riat and its stores in the jungle or desert, cause so little sensation as this did, so far as rations were concerned, and never, perhaps, had a Commissariat been honoured with so many kind and anxious in- quiries, as were made upon the present occasion j one man's reply was very curious — he told me, when asked the cause of their late arrival: " We have been wandering like an ill-tempered comet." SCENES IN A SOLDIEH'S LIFE. 165 ipply of , and at to tlie [rchased present r issued e up for rd man, d, they ia that le Land hted to ived in ants a» rrange- troops ; ur own 1 a use- along, imissa- ause so IS were issariat )us in- vasion J Id me, rrival : npered On the evening of the 3rd, we resumed ouf march to Mungal-ka-Sheer, and on the morning of the 4th, were met a few miles from that camp by many of our companions of the Left Wing, who had come thus far to welcome us home to Head Quarters. About nine, A. M., we reached the camp, and an imposing sight it was ; the army cott- eistcd of 9,000, and this fine body of men, combi- ned with all the pride, pomp and circumstance of glorious war, made a great impression upon me, as we drew near, having never seen so large a force assembled before. We foand on our arrival that the dreadful note of preparation had even now begun, and that immediate and active operations were speedily about to commence. Since the campaign of 1838-9, almost every territory in that vast region into which we were now about to enter, indeed had in reality entered, had been made tributary to our Government \ it will be readily believed that the petty Sovereigns of those diversified realms, were ill-disposed, save upon compulsion, to pay a tribute, which pressed so heavily upon their revenues, amounting in many instances to nearly one-tnird of the whole, for the aggrandizement of one nation, and that nation at a great distance ; a nation, too, said some of them, which had no claim ^ hatever upon their terri- tory. Many of their native princes, miscalcula- i-i^^ ^-U^Sm rvrirn nniirnv t\T miClllfl flTITI CT fllflf. Dl thP. iiilig iUC;il \J~--X V\jr7\ji. vTi iiiir.- ii'-^i:,---:=. " • J' British, refused to comply with the demands of our 166 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. Political Agents for their respective tributes. In almost all those places in which we had a considera- ble force, there was also stationed an officer, acting as Political Agent, whose duties were very various, and very onerous ; he had to treat with the Chiefs; to make contracts for the Government ; to lay fines and duties upon all traffic ; to collect the tribute, imposed upon the native chiefs by the orders of the government, or by treaty. The Agents in fact were kings, in all but name ; I had almost said despots. Whenever they moved abroad they were always accompanied by a strong guard; and it has often happened, that when resistance has been offered to the collection of tribute, they have not hesitated to take immediate and summary proceedings against the whole State. Ross Bell, Esq., our Political Agent, having to receive tribute from the Chief of a neighboring terri- tory, Rojuk, sent to demand it; compliance was refus- ed, and the chief went so far as to say that if the Feringees wanted it they must come and take it if they could ; as they were determined to resist its collection. This was an affront to his authority, which Mr. Bell could not submit to, and he accor- dingly proceeded to give them a specimen of Ferin- gee authority; and a force, consisting of the 3rd Regiment of Light Infantry, six gunSj and one troop of Bombay Korse Artillery, witi ihe 21st Native Infaniiy, were placed undei' ih^. command of Lieut.-Col. Wilson, of the 3rd Cat ^iliy, who had SCENES IN A SOI-DIER'S LIFE, 167 ites. In msidera- r, acting various, e Chiefs; lay fines tribute, irs of the fact were despots. always las often •ffered to itated to against aving to ng terri- as refus- at if the take it if •esist its iithority, e accor- )f Ferin- the 3rd md one the 21st ommand vvho had instructions that would justify him in attackilig the town and fort, should they still persist in their refu- sal to pay the tribute. On arriving before the place. Col. Wilson made the proper demand, which was most peremptorily refused ; upon which he placed his guns, and at- tempted to make a breach, but without eiTect. 1 Cavalry and Infantry surrounded the fort, and ud their best to return the destructive fire which was kept up from the walls of the fort. Their defence was so obstinate, that Col. Wilson's sole hope of success lay in a sudden and violent assault, and accordingly orders were issued to storm ; but here an unforeseen difficulty presented itself. The 21st Regiment, on receiving the order to charge, most unexpectedly and most provokingly hung back; their officers vainly urged them forward, but they had no stomach for the fight. The Europeans at- tached to the Troop of Artillery, about seventy, volunteered to accompany their officers, and alone to make the attack. The event, with such a small force, seemed inevitable failure ; there was now no time for hesitation, and, therefore, leaving the smallest possible number to take care of the guns, the remainder were formed into a column of attack, which, however, rather partook of the nature of a Forlorn Hope, and were place under the immediate command of Lieut. Creed ; they dashed forward gallantly, and made an attack upon the principal gate, and they were greatly surprised to see the 168 SCENES IM A SOLDIER^S LIFE. Women in large groups, sitting on the walls, holding the Koran in their hands, and pleading for mercy and forbearance. Our little heroic band advanced; they gained the gateway, and a long and despe- rate struggle ensued ; they at length effected an entrance, but as soon as the soldiers entered the narrow and winding way they were cut to pieces by the defenders, till at length, after a desperate and terrific rally, they rushed in, and overpowered the immediate defenders of the gate, but were again driven back, and whilst re-forming in front of the fort, the remainder of the enemy, taking to flight, left the fort by another entrance, and sought for safety in the neighbouring hills, leaving us to enter and take quiet possession of the fort, dearly purchased by the death of the gallant Creed,* who fell in the first assault, having been the first to effect an entrance into the gateway ; his loss was generally and greatly deplored by the men and offi- cers of his Regiment. Col. Wilson was crried back to the camp wounded ; seven of the Artillery were killed, and several were severely wounded. * The father of Lieut. Creed is the esteemed and universally respected Secretary of the London and Birmingham Bailwaj Company. holding ' mercy v^anced ; despe- cted an red the pieces isperate lowered t were n front dng to sought ' us to dearly ,* who first to ss was ndoffi- Cviried rtillery ded. iversally Railwaj CHAPTER IX. Retreat of the Enemy; Possession of the Fort; An attempt at swamping the Camp made; Admirable conduct of the Troops; Prevention of annoyance; Old Proverb realized ; Despatch sent to General Brooks; Reinforcement ordered; Sudden March; Advantages and disadvantages ; Threatening thunder storm; Awful prospect; Description of scene; Precarious situation; A dreadful storm ; Miserable condition of Troops; Anxious prayer for day; Horrible attacks of Cramps; Indes- cribable prospect; March resumed; Arrival atKojuk; Loss of Cattle, &c.; Plunder of the Fort; Re-establishment of a Com- misariat; Mode of making dry ground; Soldiers never lost for means; The Enemy disappears; Death of Colonel Wilson; March to Dadur; Preparations for Route through the Passes; Appearance of a suspicious Camp; Destination of 40th is learned . Having thus obtained possession of the fort, we were ordered to form an encampment, and to pitch our tents. Wliilst we were thus engaged, the enemy returned from the hills, having being greatly rein- forced, and their numbers far exceeding ours, they easily surrounded our camp and proceeded to hosti- lities. The first effort at annoyance was to turn the water course, at which all their tribes are very ex- pert, their object being not to dt^irive us of a supply but to give us too much; for, had they succeeded, our encamping ground would have been converted into 170 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. ... . a marsh or bay. As soon as we perceived this to be tlieir intention, we set to work to counteract it— and every man I'j !he u»p at once provided himself with the li ost fUiia^ tools he could lay his hands upon. SoHjo got picks, some shovels, and many who could not find any other tools fitting for the purpose, took their copper or brass dishes, plates, knives, and pieces of sticks, and zealously dug away until they had surrounded tlie camp with a trench or large gutter, which carried the water past us, and effectually foiled theattempt of the enemy; the only consequence of their endeavour being to provide us with a plentiful supply of water, as we might say, even at our own doors. Of course we could not but be very grateful to them for their kindness— our fatigue parties were most especially so— and thus it often happens that the most evil intentions of our enemies are, by a benign Providence, turned to our most unexpected advantage. A despatch was for- warded to General Brooks to acquaint him with the dilemma in which our little force was thus unexpect- edly placed, and urging upon him the necessity of an immediate and sufficient reinforcement. The mes- senger was fortunate enough to outdo the vigilance of the enemy, and arrived at our camp without hin- drance or disaster. Immediate orders were issued to the 40th Regiment, two Troops of Artillery, 300 Cavalry, and to the 25th Native Infantry, to be ready to march within two hours to reinforce the Troops at SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 171 Kojuk ; and at four, P. M., the whole were fonned into column of march, and set forward en route. We had had some very unpleasant specimens of night marching, and therefore had no high anticipa- tions of ease or comfort, but with the exception of a few camels and men going astray in the darkness of the night, we had no very serious disasters. At two, A. M., we halted for the day, and at four, P. M., we were igain on the line of march. To prevent accidents on this occasion, the Artillery were put in the van, and prec ded the main body for at least two hours. The road for some distance lay along the half dried bed of a river, and afterwards stretched across a lovely plain, which was not intersected by a ditch or a hillock, but the beautiful green verdure ena- melled by a thousand beautiful, and to me unknown, flowers, seemed to cheer and gladden every step we took. There was a mild soft southerly wind which just breathed upon our cheeks, and wafted on its zephyr airs that calm refreshing glow which is the more welcome in those desert regions, because it most oiten rises just after the passing away of the sun's scorching heat. It continued to blow until after the glorious orb of day had sunk slowly and majesti ally to rest behind the distant and lofty mountain ranges of Beeloochistan, leaving us to plod our weary way beneath the beautiful and glittering canopy of heaven. For once we fancied we should find a night march might be pleasant ; the breeze had now acquired more strength, and its refreshiu^ 172 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. coolness was doubly welcome, now that we began to grow warm and fatigued with marching. En- couraged by the delightful scenery and grateful odours with which the night air was redolent, we pressed on cheerfully, some of the men singing a gay and merry stanza, in which all joined in the full and hearty chorus with right good will, by which many a weary mile was beguiled of half its distance. Full of joyful anticipation, with no thought but of the dismay our presence would cause to the enemy on the morrow, we were still moving on at a very brisk pace, when we were all at once sur- prized to find the breeze suddenly die away, and the light and fleecy clouds which had been flitting along before, becoming slow, heavy, and dull. The bright blue of the heavens gradually became dimmer, until it presented one deep, dark, unvaried mass of murky gloom ; the bright stars became more and more dim until they began entirely to disappear, and one by one, star after star, went out, and all was night. The column, which but a few minutes previously had been moving along proudly, safely and joyously, was now scarcely able to advance at all, every foot being set, for fear of accident, cautiously, and doubtfully; each restless eye being involun- tarily turned upward, in earnest and anxious dread of what might next come. We were not long left in surprise, for far, far away, in the horizon, we heard the first low rumbling murmur of the distant thunder, which gathered strength as it rolled along, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE* 1T3 and came terribly on — until at length, it broke over our heads in one wild, fearful and tremendous crash, seeming to shake the veiy ground we trod upon. The clouds gathered low and thick round about us. Lightning in terrific flashes, and thunder ia awful bursts, alternately smote our eyes and ears. Owing to the intense gloom, numbers of the men and camels were lost, and every now and then, be- tween the rattling and roaring of the deep-mouthed thunder, the bugles of the main body were heard, shrilly sounding to recall the wandering footsteps of our straggling companions ; still we contrived to advance, tracing our pathway by the frequent flashes of the lightning, the rain still continuing to hold off. The dreaded storm at length came— large drops of water fell at intervals, a sure precursor to those who are acquainted with the storms of the east, that ere long, the flood-gates of the heavens would be opened upon us ; and in good sooth, within half an hour, we were marching in a flood of water, that spread over the whole plain, and reached above our ancles. We contrived to advance in this state for some time, until the water became so deep that to proceed would have been impossible ; we were or- dered to halt, and gather as close to each other as we could, and in this state we were compelled to await the dawn of day. It is now impossible to describe the sufferings of the men during the inter- val, until morning came. Bome were seized with 174 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE* the most violent cramps, which attacked many in the limbs, and others in the stomach. So painful and acute were their sulBFerings, that many fell down struggling into the water, and shrieked aloud with agony. The medical officers rendered all possible assistance, and the officers, many of whom carriec! a small quantity of brandy with them, generously placed it at the disposal of the surgeons, although they knew not but that they might be the next victims. The conduct of the officers was most praiseworthy. About five o'clock, A. M., the day began to dawn, and seldom has it dawned upon a more miserable spectacle than that on which it dawned that day, and seldom by any beings, however miserable they may have been, has it been welcomed as we wel- comed it on that occasion, although it lighted us to a scene of misery, devastation and despair. Far as the eye could reach, we looked forth upon a flood of water. It was impossible to behold it, and not to remember that beautiful verse in the eight chap- ter of Genesis : " The dove found no rest for the sole of her foot^ anS 9he return^ unto Nbahj into the Ark; far the waters were on the face of the whole earths With the returning light our energies seemed, also, to a certain extent, to return ; but we were more than half paralyzed by cold, wet, hunger, and fatigue, and what was worse than all, in the pros- pect before us, there was nothing to encourage hope, SCENES IN A soldier's UPB. 175 that friend to all, when every other friend forsakes. Effie Deans said, " Better sit and rue, than flit and rue ;" a wise saying and a true one, under certain circumstances ; but wise as it maybe, it would have been anything but wise in us to act up to its spirit on the present occasion, so we at once prepared to move on, if our crab-like motion could be called moving on at all. I have seldom seen a more distressing sight than I beheld that morning, and much as the men suf- fered, the cattle suffered much more, for many of them, after staggering and floundering about for some time, would at last fall, and where they fell there they lay and died. To render them assis- tance was an impossibility to those who were una- ble to help themselves, and thus we continued our march, and at the expiration of ten hours we reached Kojuk, at least as many of us as formed the main body; but we had neither baggage, tents, nor provisions. Now and then a stray camel would arrive with one or two tents, and as the rain had ceased at mid- day, or soon after, the waters began to abate, and here and there a small portion of land would appear above the level of the flood ; thither the experien- ced campaigners would proceed, and digging up the spot, were enabled to procure a comparatively dry site by turning the wet <^nrface downwards, and on this they would pitch their tent. Those who jiir >/ ij'4,r 17a SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. I'l had no tents were glad to avail themselves of the invitations of those who had, to share, Their lowly cot and humblo fare. There we were, thirty and forty men crowded into a small space some fourteen feet square. Rest and com- fort soon restore the equilibrium of a soldier's tempera- ment, '^'>^ we were now beginning to treat our late calan ied as a jest, but when we began to over- haul our stores, first we found our biscuits ruined ; our flour made into paste, before the fruit was gathered ; our rice softened before the currie was dressed ; our arrack so diluted with muddy water, that Farady himself, I believe, would have been puzzled to analyze it ; and as for our cocoa, it was, ayel where was it? none of us could tell. We were very likely to be somewhat in the situation of shipwrecked mariners on a desert Island ; we had water around us, and earth beneath us, and heaven above us ; and lo I all we had. We had, however, this advantage, our ocean was fordable, and at no great distance lay a newly captured Fort, and one of us, not one of the sit-and-rue race, took it into his head that where there had so lately been a marauding garrison, there would very probably be a Commissariat store ; he was not one of those deep thinkers, who make discoveries only for themselves ; no, with him once to think, was once to be resolved, and hecried: ''Hey, boys, fora foraging party to the SCENES *'; A soldier's life. 177 Fort ; ril engage ye, we find something to eat there." Away he dashed, and a noble tail he had ; their search was short, but minute and zealous, and they soon stumbled upon a magnificent store of grain, cattle, and such other of those creature comforts as the natives usually collect to preserve that union of soul and body which some of us believe to be Nature's first law, and some, I fear, the chief, per- haps the only one, they care to obey. We soon afterwards discovL A a grinding-mill, and whilst some killed the cattle, prepared food, made soup, &c., others ground the wheat into flour, and made cakes, &c., so that ere long we were feasting happily and plentifully ; and, as we had worked our newly discovered mine to our own satis- faction, we failed not to spread the golden trea- sury to our famished comrades. 1 trust, under all these circumstances, this little trifle of felony will be overlooked, and that, for once, we may be looked upon rather as self-invited and famishing guests, than as daring and reckless burglars, which we might be considered at other times, and in other places. By nightfall the waters had almost disappeared from the face of the land ; and the sun, which, after a long and desperate struggle with the clouds, broke forth about four, P. M., shone brightly, glori- ously and powerfully until a little alter six, when M 1T8 SCENES IN A SOLDIEB'S LIFE. he left us as happy as though the night of the 21st of February had never frowned upon us. The enemy, who had caused so much alarm at our camp at Kojuck, only waited the arrival of our main body ; and even in the miserable plight in which we were, on our arrival, we could not help laughing to see them scampering away towards the distant mountains as soon as they saw our colours and bayonets, without even staying to notice the swarm of drowned rats we resembled, and who could scarcely hav* given them any annoyance, had they but staid to try our metal ; for our am- munition was saturated with water, and our fire- locks, in those days never the best in the world, were so much injured by the continual deluge to which they had been exposed, that I think they would have missed fire three times in five. Colonel Wilson died of his wounds a few days after our arrival, and was buried with all the honors the circumstances would admit. There was no appearance of any enemy, and we were very anxious to return to the main body of the force, which we had left at Mungal La Shier on the 20th, but this, owing to the flooded state of the country, was impossible, as the roads were enilrely impassable ; in the mean time that force moved to Dadur, and was ordered to wait our arrival at that place, which did not happen until the 16th of March. We lay there for some time in a state of complete SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 179 le 21st arm at I of our ght in ot help irds the colours ice the id who «j 3yanc lur am- ur fire- world, luge to k they w days all the and we body of )hier on B of the inilrely )ved to at that March. )mplete inactivity, hut we were exerting ourselves greatly in preparations for that coming campaign, in which our young and inexperienced warriors looked cut for that indefinable something called death or glory. The again dull monotony of our existence \>as inten-upted by our perceiving one morning by the first rays of the break of day, that a large camp had been formed during the night at no great dis- tance from us, and of very imposing appearance. Some of our men ran out hastily to reconnoitre, and if possible ascertain if they were friends or foes, and what was their object in comir,g so near to u>; their sudden and unforeseen appearance caused much excitement in our camp ; but we were not long left in doubt, for it was soon ascertained to be an encampment formed by the inhabitants of some of the nearer villages, who having been plundered or attacked, gathered up their treasures, and had come to place themselves under tb' protection aHorded by the vicinity of our cam.p. It was now for the first time ascertained that the destination of the 40th Regiment was Quetta ; and that we should have to traverse the Bolun Pass by the same route through which the troops of Nusseer Khan had fled after they had been defeated by Major Boscawen. lH:i' CHAPTER X. Arrival at Dadurj Conjunction of Troops; Meeting of 41st and 40th Kegimeuts; Aelivo Preparations for marching up the Country ; Description of ground near Dadur, and the mouth of the Pass; March of the First Division; Road to the Entrance; A Boar Cha&ej Description of first day's March; The Serpentine Stro.iui; Soldier's case; Sullirae not always pleasinp-; Second day's March; Continuance of the stream; Soldier^s boots; A three mile wade; Fatigue of the day; Third day : Appearance of the Enemy; Halt at Bcbee Naunee; Capture by the Tnemy of Cattle; Recovery of it; Destruction of the Rebels; Precautions taken to prevent harrassuient; Fourth day; Abi Gaum, or the Region of Hidden Waters; Romantic appearance; Scarcity of firewood; Entire want of Forage ; Fifth day ; Curious appearance ; Awfully grand ; Furrow defile ; Power of defence ; Sixth day ; Narrowness anddanger of the Pass; Description of the Mountains ; Length of Pass ; Seventh day ; Description of scene ; Beauties of the Valley of Shawl; Comparison; Emerging from the Pass. On the 18th of March we moved to Dadur, and on our arrival saw a wing of the 41st Regiment also marching into the camp, and many small detach- ments which had lately been posted around in diffe- rent directions. We halted here several days, and during that time we were making great prepara- tions for our expected passage through the different and difficult Passes we were soon likely to encoun- ter. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 181 The ground between Dadur and the Bolun Pass is very irregular and uneven, and there are a great many running streams which spring from the hills, and are perfectly chalybeate, in consequence ot there being several mines of metals of different descriptions. The right wing of the 40th Regi- ment, during the time they lay here, I mentioned as having suffered very much by these waters, and were not cured without great difficulty. On the 25th of March a considerable portion of the force under the command of General Brooks and Brigadier Valiant, with a numerous staff^ en- tered the Bolun. The force consisted of H. M.'s 40th Regiment, H. M.'s 41st Regiment ; the 1st Troop of Artillery and several Native Regiments were ordered to follow afterwards, as they should be directed from Head Quarters. The road to the entrance of Bolun Pass, for about a mile, was covered with large loose stones ; and the mountains forming ihr, entrance are exceed- ingly rugged, of a light brown colored sandstone rock. We were highly amused, soon after we had started, by the sight of a boar chase, which ani- mals run wild about these regions ; two of them were speared, and Drought back to the head of the column in great triumph. After marching up the Pass for about three miles, the mountains began to rise to a much more commanding height, and the way, which had at first been rather wide, began to 182 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. Ill be much more narrow. From time to time we came to a small spot of verdure, but sterility was the ge- neral feature of the ground ; and loose and large stones still continued to strew the road in suflS- cient quantities to make marching particularly incon- venient and disagreeable. A knee deep and ser- pentine stream runs through the valley, or rather ravine ; and in the course of nine miles we had to ford its strong current not less than eighteen times. When we first arrived on its banks, preparatory to crossing it, the men sat down and took off their boots, and having reached the opposite bank sat down and put them on again ; this agreeable pro- cess was practised three or four times, but was eventually found to be so tedious and troublesome, that on all future occasions they just marched on, as though no stream was there ; but I must confess our situation was anything but pleasant, and the discomfort of having to struggle on, over the con- tinued masses of detached rock, tended very much to diminish our admiration of the celebrated Bolun Pass. It was not for the first time in my life, how- ever, that I made the discovery, that the beautiful is not always the agreeable, and the sublime is not al- ways the pleasing ; and I have no doubt that there were many who marched through the Pass, who scarcely deigned to notice the vast region of nature's fortification, or could even describe its casual ap- pearance. There are many amongst our soldiery, who misuse the onoortunitv of makintr themselves * * SC5BNES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE. 183 acquainted with the beauties of foreign countries, oftentimes from indolence or want of taste. How many there are who would gladly sacrifice much to get the chance of seeing the world, as much as the soldier has. Our next day's march was to Gunnah, and we had to cross our wandering and erratic friend eleven times, whence it will be readily inferred that we became much more intimate with him than we could have desired, as we parted with him for the last time. Our boots suffered very much in consequence of this continual succession of baths ; the upper and lower portions parted company, and left our bruised feet to the tender mercies of the rugged pathway we had to traverse ; many of the men endured great pain and annoyance, for they were only al- lowed thirty pounds of baggage, including bed and bedding, save what they could carr}^ on their backs, and therefore they cculd not be supplied with a reserve battalion of boots, and less would not have availed to protect them during such a march as this. In one part of this day's journey, the Pass became so narrow that for three miles the stream occupied its entire width, and we had to march that distance, up the bed of the river, if it may be so called, knee deep in water, which was of a very black colour and very offensive. The bed of the river was filled with large pebbles and rocks, over and among which the water dashed, leapt and 184 SCENES IN A SOLDIEE's LIFE. bounded, and made such an impression on my mind and recollection, that I now never hear even one of our native brooklets bubbling and foaming along its pebbled bed, without thinking of that terrible three mile wade,— for it could not be termed a march. At our next halt, at Beebee Naunee, a high hill in the centre, the Pass was very wide, hat the encamp- ing ground, consisting of loose round stones, gave us great trouble in pitching our tents, as it was almost impossible to drive the poles and pegs, and quite so without blunting their points. At this place the enemy again made their ap- pearance, and did their best to annoy us; they made an attack upon the sheep and bullocks be- longing to the Commissariat, and succeeded in dri- ving off a portion of them. Our General, who could not at all understand that any predatory band, at least of such like pretensions as that which had thus presumed to beard the lion in his den, should do so with impunity, ordered the Grenadier Com- pany of the 40th Regiment, and two guns, to pur- sue them to their retreat. A straggler they met with guided them through some mountain pathways to the cave whither they had retired, after securing, as they thought, the cattle in a secret place. On approaching the cavern we set fire to the gra8.% and threw in some shells and grape shot, which killed a considerable number of them, and then, having recaptured the cattle, we returned to th^ camp at a very late hour, and excessively fatigued, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 185 aB we had been long out, and without food. The force remained at Bee bee Naunee the whole of the liext day, to enable us to recover from the eflfects of the great fatigue >vl had endured. Our horses, car mels and cattle ha<l as much need of rest as we ourselves, and owing to the barren nature of the Pass, theii condition was the worse, as they had no chance of meeting with any green food during the march, and in consequence many of them had died, and many more wer likely to die. The Commis- mriat alone lost seventy camels, during the three days, whilst the loss of the Kegii ontai Depart- ments was fully in proportion. As we should have to cross the stream again, the General ordered the Sappers to make a temporary bridge, and a great comfort it was, for there was something very unpleasant in crossing a strong stream as cold as ice, before day-break, and then to have to march forward in wet clothes for many a long and weary mile, over tracts that deserve not the name of roads. On the 29th March we proceeded from Beebee Nau- nee to the region of the Hidden Waters. It was called AbiGaum, one of the most romantic places I had yet seen in the country. The ground was strewed with a much smaller kind of pebble, and had much of the appearance of gravel in its constituent parts. The running streams of water gave out a bubbling, gurg- ling sound, which echoed among the high craggy hills, and died away in hollow moimurs. All these m ^ /a /: ^m .'V /; y -(^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■ 3.0 ""^^ IM^IB I4£ i2-0 us Ki u 1.8 1-25 llii.4 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation ,.v*,% 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4503 186 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. watercourseswere invisible, butonremovingthepeb- bles, and scraping away the under-lying soil, to the depth of an inch or two, a most beautiful spring of clear, cold and refreshing water bubbled up. This part of the Pass was very barren, and even bare of any bushes that we could cut for fire-wood. Our iatigue parties had, consequently, to seek at a dis- tance, and bringing it home, most certainly justi- fying their claim to the name of a fatigue pariv. We inarched next day to Sir-i-aub-Bolun, halted in a narrow part of the Pass, and pitched our camp in a very irregular form, as owing to the nature of the ground all attempts at systematic arrangement were perfectly hopeless. Our next halting place was Dungar, which we reached after a long and tedious march, the Pass still continuing very narrow, and becoming more dangerous. The heights, on each «ide of the Pass, presented a very formidable front and often over-hung the way in such a manner as to cause a well grounded fear that the slightest ac- cident might detach them from the larger mass and topple them headlong down into the yawning chasms below. These over-hanging masses grea<>. fy increased the gloom of the narrow and serpen- tine way along which we had to march. The echoes were wonderful and startling, and a whisper often reflected an unamiable sound. Although the mountains of the Bolun Pass are not so lofty as first impressions would lead us to believe, they are yet striking and grand; their near SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 187 gthepeb- oil, to the spring of ip. This n bare of )d. Our at a dis- ily justi- riv. We Ited in a camp in re of the ent were ace was i tedious )w, and on each le front, inner as test ac- I* mass, awning J great- serpen- . The vhisper iss are i us to lirnear approximation at different parts of the Pass, also, induce the belief that they have a greater altitude than they really possess ; their apparent height is also increased by inequality and irregularity. Na- ture has perhaps made few places more capable of effectual resistance, and I have never seen another place so fitted to destroy the advantages of num- bers as some particular points in the Bolun Pass ; there the merest handful of men might maintain their ground against the advance of a host more numerous than that of the Persian Warrior. In many parts of the Pass even a few peasants, if tolerably resolute, and judiciously placed, might offer a very serious obstruction to a most determined invader, by hurling down upon the advancing foe those huge masses of rock which lie most plentifully along the summit of the hills, and which also afford the most effectual cover to the defending forces. I have often been amazed at the supine- ness of the leaders of the Native Troops in thus permitting us to prosecute our march unmolested through one of Nature's strong-holds. The Bolun Pass leads through the mountains about seventy- five miles ; at the seventy-third >iiile we began to mount a very large and veiy steep ascent, and on attaining the summit we looked down upon a most lovely plain, which waa spread far and wide be- fore us, looking gay, bright and smiling. We gazed upon it with the greatest rapture, inasmuch as for seventy-four miles nothing had greeted our 188 SCEKE8 IN A SOLDIEE'S LIPB. When wl Tf". T^' '"^ '"'''*» °«'«°'«'''"- When we looked down upon the bright snnnr valley before ns the n.i„d wandered, involuntarilj fT JT' *^ *'"' "«'<"■' «f Palestine, and I thought that there was something that strikingly S r V"^ ^''" '' *"«- *» ^eiof ftsgah whence he surveyed the land ages before predestined as a residence for that rebellious to behold but never to enter. The face of Nature, when undisfignred by the hand of man, is always loyeIy-.s always pleasing. I cannot recall that I ei^er gazed upon a landscape which awakened 80 many and such deep thoughts of holy reverence. It was impossible to behold that region of sylvan beauty and not confess with veneration and de- votion, the hand that made it is Divine. It was called the Valley of Shawl, and never a valley 7Z a juster claim to the appellation. Its beauty and fragrance could scarcely be surpassed. CHAPTER XL Arrival at Quetta; Uncomfortable prospects; Scorpions unpleii- sant companions; Effect of their sting; The venemous Sente- pee ; Determination of Government to treat with Nussoer IChan; Colonel Stacy's endeavours; Quetta and its appear* ance; The British Residency; Government Stores; Prepara- tions for a long Campaign; Anew Corps raised; Arrival of H. M's 41st Regiment; Captain Blood's Artillery; Prospect of taking the Khan; Despatch of a force; Harrassing route; Spies; Forced marches ; Wild Goose chase; Sickness; Troops die in great numbtirs; Another failure; Peeling of the Troops; General Brooks; His unpleasant position; His character; Who was to blame? Peculiarity of situu ;« jn ; Trying circumstances; Forced to make the best of bad; Thunder storm; Miseries in Camp; Unexpected arrival in Camp; The Prince of Shawl turned Traitor; Dreadful havoc through sickness; Fever, Ague and Dysentery; Hospital Tents crowded; Insufficient accom- modation; Scarcity of comfort? ; Enormous prices paid for them; Indefatigable exertions of Dr. Mc Andrew end Mr. Xavier, the Apothecary; The probable cause of the sickness; Vast mortality; Death of Ross Bell, Esq. and Lieut. Valiant; Removal from Command in the Field of General Brooks and Brigadier Valiant; Cause of removal; Sad affair; New Com- manders; Arrival of Nusseer Khan ; Levee; Review; Appear- ance of winter; Prospect of returning to Quarters; Prepara- tions; Route changed; General Nott's Despatch; Orders to march to Candahar; In Affghanistan. The next day we marched to " Sir-i-Aub," and from thence to " Quetta," where we arrived on the 2nd April. The first thing presenting itself for our comfort was the ground being infested with 190 SCENES IN ▲ soldier's LIFE. scorpions, and we were cautioned to search well beneath the stones, and remove them if any were discovered. They are the small light-green scor- pion, scarcely as large as a small frog. There are also the black scorpion, a most deadly reptile. The sting creates most excruciating pain, and causes the part affected to swell and turn black : if the hand or foot be stung, the whole arm or leg becomes inflamed, and swells twice its natural size. The best remedy I ever found was the application of an onion to the part, or tincture of opium. The ground was also thronged with sentapees, another dreadfully venemous reptile; it is about half an inch broad across the back, and varies from three to ten inches long, is of a greenish brown color, with about forty legs ; the i*ting, as with the scorpion, is in the tail, which issues from a small bladder filled with the poison ; and which on the insertion of the sting, is diffused. These creatures are commonly found in beds, and clothes, very often in boots; it is therefore very necessary to be exceedir \y cautious, and examine everything, not only here in Quetta but in all the Eastern climates. . ersons often suf- fer much when stung in the jungles, some distance from aid, as the pain being so great, overpowers, and the result has often been known to be fatal owing to the want of assistance. ' Government receiving despatches of this and so many other disasters, occasioned by running after this child, Nusseer, considered it better to try to ne- gociate, and offer some advantageous proposal to him, SCENES IN A SOLDIEB'S UFE. in jarch well any were reen scor- There are y reptile. )ain, and rn black : rm or leg ural size. )plication m. The J another f an inch ee to ten or^ with >rpion, is ler filled n of the mmonly •ts; it is autious, Quetta "ten suf- listance powers, e fatal, is and ig after r tone- to him, in order to bring him in, for as the old adage goes, " prevention is better than cure." Colonel Stacy, then in the Political Department, was directed to treat with Nusseer, and with a strong guard went after him ; but as often as he came near Nusseer, Nusseer again fled, for he could place no confidence in the British, inasmuch as his uncle, Gool Mahomed, who was with him, was the headsman of Love- day; he therefore looked upon it as a trap to catch them, in order to be revenged for that officer's death. However, leaving the Colonel after his object, and to return to Quetta ; nothing of note occurred by way of fighting or annoyance for some time, save now and again, some robbers, I should call tbem, would meet parties of our followers out for forage, &c., and murder them, and other trifling outrages of this kind. The weather was extremely hot, and we still being under canvas, made it still more uncomfortable and oppressive. The town of Quetta is of mud, rather large, and very irregularly built ; it has two entrances, and few of the houses are more than kennels, to enter which you had to stoop, and sit down when inside. The surrounding country was lovely and fertile ; grain and fruit were in abundance. The hills surround the whole of the vicinity, about seven miles from the Camp; within one mile and a half from the town stood the British Residency, a beautiful building, of mud, but covered and ornamented with white plaster. Capt. Bean, Ross Bell, Esq., and other public function- 193 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. aries resided here ; the Camp stood about two miles south of the Residency, and about midway was erected a large store, with high mud walls, about two hundred yards square, for the purpose of containing our Commissariat, provisions, &c. j and as Quetta was in the heart of Beeloochistan, surrounded with plenty, Government dh cted that supplies should be laid in for about two thousand Europeans and five thousand Natives, for two years, as a store to be kept up. Accordingly, contracts were entered into, granaries were built, cattle were sent to a dis- tance, with Natives, to cut firewood, (there are no coals J and in fact Quetta became one scene of business ; a new corps was raised and disciplined, called the Bolun Rangers, and were employed in attending convoys to the interior of the Passes, and other intricate parts of the country. Quetta is described as being very hot, but what is somewhat surprising, about twenty-seven miles east lies Moostoong, which climate is most delightful, the Thermometer never exceeding 90°. About a month after our arrival, the Brigade left below the Pass arrived, and Her Majesty's 41st Regiment pro- ceeded to Moostoong, and Captain Blood's 3rd Com- pany of Bombay Foot Artillery marched on to Kelat, which, by the bye, in consequence of its being evacuated b-- the inhabitants, who had gone with Nusseer, was again taken possession of by us. Colonel Stacy had got some clue to Nusseer, who it appeared had again collected a considerable mob, SCENES IN A SOLDIER S LIFB. 193 WO miles ivay was ibout two mtaining IS Quetta ded with s should sans and ore to be red into, } a dis- ) are no 5cene of ^iplined, ioyed in ses, and uetta is mewhat 1st lies tful, the I month he Pass nt pro- •d Com- 1 on to ;s being le with us. , who it e mob, and determined on attacking and retaking his city, " Kclat," as he had assembled in its vicinity ; the rumour was well founded, so General Brooks ordered a strong force to be in immediate readiness to proceed after the enemy. And it was reported, and authentically too, that tlicrc was a large por- tion of treasure with them ; this is what we wanted, as a few lacs would have been very acceptable to .John Company, to make up ior the many losses he had had in the rupee way, with Major Clibborne's, Lt. Clarke's, and several other defeats. The force or- dered,were Her Majesty's41stRegiment,eIght pieces of Artillery, 1st Regiment of Native Infantry, and followers ; after some delay on the part of the heads, (which delay did not benefit the expedition) waiting for some further intclligenco from Colonel Stacy, the force marched on the second of June, when the season was at the highest of heat ; the thermometer stood in Quetta, in the shade, 110° in the hospital, which is of course the coolest possible place. The enemy gained intelligence of our approach, and proceeded two or three marches ahead ; they kept a line of communication from post to post, and thus gained information, and though our troops made forced marches, making three into two, and some- times two into one, still the enemy kept in front ; they pressed at length at some village all the camels they could, and two soldiers mounted on each, and getting them into a trot, made the best of their way, beneath a sun hot enough to N. 194 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. Hi broil a Bteuk ; all was of no use, tho enemy's spies were out in every direction, und bcin^' better ac- quainted with the country, rendered it dreadfully harrassin^' to the force, making a complete wild goose chase, at the risk of kiUing every man with the heat. It wiust here be observed that a campaign In Scinde or Aflghanistan, in which country you are compelled to remain, and on wliose tranquil inha- bitants you are doijcnding for supplies, that to discover spies was almost impossible and in fact seldom looked for. The enemy's spies could bring us supplies, in the 8hai)0 of fowls, milk, fruit, &c., reconnoitre tho camp during the sale, and go round with them, without the least interruption or direct suspicion; nay your very follower or servant might be one, and how are you to know itV there- fore it is not to be v/ondercd at them getting so much information of our positions, strength and movements ; many plans were devised and tried, to prevent them from entering our camp; Major Bos- caweU; I remember, issued an order that no native was to be seen in the British camp without a blue belt, which he issued to every one connected with Government. Other oflicers have issued orders for only certain castes or religions (lor any native knows the difference of each other) to he admitted, but it was useless, in they used to come, in the garb of a villager, probably some of the very Tribes allowed, who had become outcasts to society, and so forth, SCENES IN i. soldier's UFB. 106 ly s spies letter ac- read fully lete wild luiti with ipaign In you are uil inha- , that to id in fact i bring us uit, 6ic.y and go iption or r servant ? tlicre- itting so gth and tried, to ijor Bos- 10 native It a blue ted with il orders y native duiitted, e garb of allowed, so forth, would be amongst tho first to enter your camp as spies ; it was through this that the harrassing chase was caused to the force in question; they were mis- led, and after a dreadful toil of twenty-nine days, reached Noosky, where they were obliged to halt ; the weather was so oppressive, that it brought on tho fever amongst the men and to l very great ex- tent; it grew worse hourly, and nearly every man was laid up ; it continued, and raged like a plaguy; ; the men died in numbers every day, which contin- ued for about a month, and in July they managed to return without success, reduced to a complete skeleton, with scarcely one man in health ; this shewed itself in the eyes of several judges, rather unwise generalship, aiid raised a feeling amongst the Troops of something in the shape of want of confidence on the [)art of our General ; he blamed lloss Bell ; Bell blamed somebody else, and somebody else, nobody knows who; but here it ended — a second failure in the short career of General Brooks in the field ; it is not for me to enter into the private charac- ter of the General, as he was always considered to be an able one, when he commanded a station in Quarters, and when in the field his character as awar- rior bore to all a brilliant aspect ; had he been properly tried in battle, and had the same opportunities as others had, I feel fully persuaded, from his manners, that he would never have been found wanting in British valour. But several individuals, through the exigencies of the service, were throwu 106 SCENES IK A soldier's LIFE, 3i'i III into very arduous and powerful positions — such as wore quite inexperienced in such important matters as life and death ; and have, in several instances, from errors in judgment and otherwise, subjected themselves to censure and sarcasm, by a world that is too prone to err in judp^ment, and cannot ap- preciate the intrinsic feelin<:^s of moments like those I refer to. It may be truly said, why did not Government make more certain arrangements ? select more experienced men '? adopt more Welling- ton-like plans? and such like ; true, but howcouhl a Government make such, when our army was in the heart of a country, surrounded by a treach- rous foe, whose object was cutting ofl' corres- pondence, and thus, very very often, despatches, &c. never reached their destination ; and what was to be done in the mean time ? Why, to make the argument short, do as they do in France in such cases, '' as well as you can." Quetta resumed somewhat •of a more tranquil appearance ; a temporary race course and cricket ground were made, which form- ed the bulk of our pleasure. About one mile west of the town is a curious spot, formed by nature ; it is a spring or well, about two feet deep, has a floating bottom of loose sand ; the water above was crystal and clear, and nothing would sink to remain below that floating bottom. I have thrown in huge pieces of stone, or part of a camel's skeleton ; all would descend past and through by the force of throwing, but rise again and float ; several men have dived down, but iiiii SCENES IN A soldier's LIFF 197 -such as matters istances, ubjected orld that nnot ap- nU like kvliy did 3nient8 ? Yelling- )w could my Mas , treach- corrcs- lies, &c. as to be 'gument es, " as mc^vhat iry race h form- west of ; it is a floating crystal 1 below 3 pieces 1 would ing,but wn, but could find no bottom, but stated, immediately after passing the loose sand, there was a clear well of water. On the 28th of July, a dreadful storm of rain and dust visited Quetta, blew down several tents ; thi:^ was a common occ\irrence, but I men- lion it for this reason, the camp was pitched in a valley, and the rain that fell in the mountains lodged there for some time; we had got com- paratively dry, when the waters burst from the hills, and flooded the whole of the valley below, and the road from camp to town, for some days was rendered impassable, and the reader may judge the misery of the Troops, in tents at such a time ; to describe every immediate circumstance connected with these little catastrophes would be laughed at by a soldier, as his life is one complete chapter of trials ; but those who rest beneftith a roof, at home, and on u soft bed at night, in aland free from jeopardy, cannot dream of the sufferings the sol- dier undergoes to secure him those comforts ; it is for this reason I wish to point out a few of the most glaring; at the same I must say that the innumerable unmentionable privations of a soldier's life on a campaign, would of themselves strike terror to the minds of the inexperienced. Shortly after this, an es- cort came into camp of about two hundred men, bring- ing with them no other than the " Prince of Shawl," whom I mentioned as having been released from the Fort of Bukkur, and appointed a Government cattle contractor. He had been detected holding an 198 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. Mi intercourse with the enemy, and was taken, conduct- ing, I helieve, a convoy of stores, treasures, &c., to Nusaeer Khan's force, he at the same time being in our service; he remembered many of the 40th, and after remaining sOme time in irison was released for want of suflicient evidence to prove his trai- torism. Sickness I regret to say made its appearance at Quetta, and rapidly increased ; the hospital tents began to fill — it was thought well to change ground — we did — still it grew worse, two and three dying each day ; few who fell sick lingered more than a week ; the whole force began to look dejected and pale; the spirit of the 40th Regiment grew quite abashed ; our Brigade Major, Lieut. Henry Valiant, son of the Brigadier, and Lieute- nant in the 40th, died— then Ross Bell, Esq., and several other officers died. Early in September there were one hundred and sixty bedfast in hos- pital, and about as many convalescent. The regu- lated number of hospital tents was found insuffi- cient to accommodate the sick ; so there were one or two taken from each company, to hold their sick. Fever and ague, followed by dysentery, was the prevailing disease, and I must again here mention the unremitted attention and kindness of the sur- geon, McAndrew, of the 40th, and Mr. Xavier, the apothecary. Their exertions were great ; night and day did these individuals attend over their charge. The doctor used every effort to procure and adminis- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 199 , conduct- s, &c., to 5 beinpf in 40th, and } released his trai- ArancG at ital tents 3 change two and : lingered n to look Elegiment r, Lieut. 5 Lieute- Csq., and eptomber in hos- tile regu- d iusufR- ^ere one heir sick, was the mention the sur- Xavier, it ; night :r charge, adminis- ter every and any comfort the country and stores would aflford. Comforts at this time, such as wine, beer, spirits, &g. were extremely scarce. Some few enterprising Indian merchants, had followed the army thus far with a few supplies ; but they were sold at most enormous rates. Government, in order to meet the demands of the medical officers, for comforts for the sick, had to pay as high as six and seven shillings sterling for each bottle of beer, f'oni twelve to twenty shillings a bottle for wine, and so on. If Government had to pay so much for comforts, taking large quantities, what of the poor soldier ? — they were unknown to him. Those who could afford it, paid most dearly ; not less than a thousand, or even much more, per cent, on every article. The men had to pay five or seven shillings for simply putting on a pair of soles to their boots— finding their own material ; and every thing in like manner. Such was the state of the times at Quetta, misery depicted in every counte- nance, and scarcely one free from sickness. Not only to the improvement of the sick, but for the healthy, did these arms of valuable medical aid, look to ; and I can proudly and happily say that it is to the indefatigable exertions of these, and other medical parties, headed by divine Providence, that the troops at Quetta did even so well as they did, which in the best was bad. The constitutional part of this was to be attributed to that dreadful 200 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, II Hi flight going to Kojuk, and the exposure since to tlie different overwhelming climates and seasons. As I observed before, the enemy made a practise of meeting our couriers, destroying their packets, and murdering them ; thus it was mere chance when tlie correspondence readied either party ; but how- ever a despatch arrived shortly after the death of Koss Bell, ordering Major General ]Jrooks, and Brigadier .Valiant, K. 11., to proceed to the Presi- dency, the latter to command the Fort of Bombay, and to resign their respective commands in the iield, iq the two senior officers then present, who were Brigadier England, K. IL, then Lieut. Colo- nel of H. M. 41st, and Lieut. Colonel Soppett ; this order came from the Supreme Government, and was pronmlgatcd from the Board of Directors, who, in consequence *of circumstances connected with the Court of Inquiry, bold at Sukkur, to investigate into and opinionize on the unfortunate affair of Major Clibborne's defeat at ^' Noofoosk," these two officers, one President, and the other a member of the Court; and some injudicious conduct, contrary to the custom of the service, in the eyes of Government, led U) the withdrawal of them from their commands in the Iield; there is now in print the whole of the affair, under the head of the Clibborne Commission ; and I would introduce more of the matter, but I am necessitated to be rather brief in my details, as they are so numerous and ooimooipA • iha «7Kr.io r.e the correspondence, &c. &c., on that subject, may SCENES IN A SOLDIEll'S LIFE, 201 c since to icasOns. a practise packets, nee when but liow*- death of oks; and he Presi- Borabay, s in the )nt, who ut. Coio- ett ; this and was who, in with the ^estigate iffair of lese two mber of itrarv to rnment, nmands 3 of the nission; , but I ails, as ' ijvriV Vi ^t, may be found on reference to that publication, which is one of a most interesting character. This removal worked greatly on the minds of both these officers, and the few little failures I have already shown would add to its weight. They parted with their force amid the well wishes of all, I think ; and Brigadier Valiant with his Regiment, with a full heart, having anticipated glory and lau- rels by their aid — which to such a soldier as Valiant, was a rack indeed. The encamping ground was again changed, as the sickness still remained. About this time Colonel Stacy sent in word that he had succeeded in win- ning over the object of his searcli, " Nusseer Khan," who, under the promise of protection, restoration of his territory, &c., would surrender himself to us ; he was brought into the camp of Quetta, on the 8th of September ; and much was made of him, he being by birth the heir to Kclat, and of course the " Khan," (king.) He held a levee, and all officers who wished to be introduced, attended, for the purpose of being presented to " His Iliglmess Meer Nusseer Khan," Chief of Kelat ; on tlie 10th, Brigadier England or- dered a general parade, for liis Highness, although the majority of tlie men were in so weak a state as to be pronounced unfit for service ; but they ap- peared very well considering ; the artillery shewed him what we could do at a long distance, and the e^n^^„^t i%\nnf.i4-fr iirWl> iirViii^K iVio mort txronf inmiifrn the different evolutions greatly surprised Nusseer? ^'02 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE". who, no doubt, doubly regretted playing so long with so fine a disciplined army as that of the British. The mother of Nusseer, Beebee Gunjun, also came in, but his uncle, Gool Mahomed, fled ; and would of course have been put to death, if ever he had been caught. On the 20th of September, the camp was again moved, for the change of air, but ail of no use ; the winter was fast approach- ing ; even now the snow appeared on the tops of the Hemayllee Mountains, and the weather was get- ting very cold at night, but extremely hot in the day. The ground was again changed on the 30th Sep- tember, and back again on the 2nd October ; the news of our sick state was sent some days before to General Nott, commanding Scinde and Lower Affghanistan, then at Candahar, who directed Bri- gadier England to despatch H, M. 40th Regiment, and all the sick troops that could possibly be marched or carried, to winter at Candahar, in some barracks that were just finished. This ne^s was rather unexpected and unwelcome. Already we were unable to march a day, and we had anticipated going down the Passes towards Bombay ; nay, so far was it arranged that even the stores and car- riage were prepared for that purpose but one day before this order arrived from General Nott, when of course it must be obeyed, and the route was changed to go still more into the interior of the enemy's country— to leave Beeloochistan and enter Affghanistan. so long- t of the Gunjun, led, fled ; death, if ptember, liange of pproach- »ps of the was get- the day. 0th Sep- 3er; the ^s before d Lower ;ted Bri- 3giment, sibly be in some ews was ady we ;icipated nay, so ind car- one day t, when ute was r of the id p.ntpr CHAPTER XII. March to Candahar; The foot of the Goths; The Kojuk Pass,-: Description of route; Troops greatly harrassed; The Desert; Arrival at Candahar; The Cantonments; Their unfinished state; Candahar; Its people; Trade and state; Description of the City; Tomb of the Emperor, Ahmed Shah; Timor Shah; Suffer Jung; Military force; Vicinity of Candahar; Ghuznee in want of succour ; Major MoLaron despatched; Is intercepted by the snow; Great loss; Unfortunate result; Winter sets in; Troops desert to the enemy; Old adage; Appearance of an Outbreak; Alarming prospect; Troops continually under arms; Dreadful news from Cabool; Orders to Evacuate; State of tho Country; War rages; Preparations for Battle; The City blockaded; Trade suspended; Precautions taken; The Enemy makes a stand; Orders to attack; Craft of the Enemy; 7000 Troops proceed to the Field ; March to the Fight; 12th January, 1844; Battle of Killa Shuk. The preparations for commencing our march were completed, and on the 6th of October, 1841, we proceeded towards Candahar. I must now state that I did not entirely escape a share of the sickness. At Quetta I was attacked with the ague and fever, and was in a very weakly state for several months — but thanks to th i* Being who governs all things, I recovered: The r^ad was not the worst we had iraveueu, uui lucro vva.5 oni: giv;u,i uwjcoi, fj-^i^jix^ uo to be got over, which was to cross the much KMi Nil 204 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, dreaded " Kojuk Heights." I must here make It known to my readers that I was laboring from the severe sickness all the way to Candahar, but, though sick, kept up my note-book as well as I could ; therefore, the description of the route to Candahar will be, in consequence, somewhat brief, and will, I trust, be excused ; suffice it to say that nothing of note took place, with the exception of crossing the heights. En route to the mountains, we crossed the head of the Laharra River, and on. the 13th reached the foot of the Goth, where the camp w:as pitched in the valley, and night came on ; there was an advance force formed of the sick, &c. to enable them to get over, ere the guns and the main body arrived. So on the morning we com- menced the ascent, which was very great, and the road narrow, and caused much difficulty in gaining the summit ,• so steep was the path that we had often to stop to gain breath. Having gained the top, the path led down a deep abyss ; it was in the side of the mountain, and it perhaps may be more fully understood if described as nothing more than a shelf cut in the mountain ,• it was, from eight to twelve hQt wide ; only one camel or horse could pass at the same time,— on the right looked up to an immense height, and on the left into a dread- ful abyss, not less than from 1200 to 1400 feet below ; there are several small valleys, occasioned ? by the ruggedness of the mountains, which form.ed a /sort of circuitous route beneath ; the great difficulty SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. 205 'C make fig from lar, but, ell as I •oiite to it brief, lay that 3tion of intalns, er, and lere the t came fie sick, and the 'C com- t, and ilty in hat we led the was in nay be g more eight, I could ed up dread- feet sioned meda Sculty was to get tlie guns and heavy baggage over the height ; to allow the horses to draw them up would have been madness, for the least fright, on the narrow ahelf, which is the best name for it to be understood, would have brought destruction on the whole con-^ nected with a gun, which would not be less than ten to twelve men, and should be many more, and as many horses, for had there been the least slip, they would have been dashed to pieces down the awful craggy precipice : the same with the camels, and many in- stances occurred, of cattle lulling down, and of course were destroyed ; therefore the whole of the Infantry had first to cross the heights, and having arranged their baggage, had to return ainl draw up the guns, which rendered the march one of the most fatiguing almost possible ; the deep ravine on the one side, and the craggy hills on the other, rendered the scene very picturesque. The narrow winding of the shelf or path enabled those from the summits to see the whole before, and as far as the eye could caiTy behind him — soldiers, followers, camels, horses, bullocks, and every thing appertaining to an army, formed a very imposing sight ; the dreary appear- ance and echo of the pass, was dismal, and seemed to inquire why we intruded through so secluded a path. In the mountains were small caves, in which were a few individuals, who gained a livelihood by plundering travellers, of whom there were com- paratively few, and in this case dared not ven- ture to practise their profession j they, however^ 206 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, brought us out pomegranates/ grapes, &c., for sale, which were very acceptable, to refresh the har- rassed soldier. At length, after a very tedious march, (for it was about twelve miles ere the foot of the Goths were reached, and our toil in dragging the guns over,) we reached the bottom^ and pitched our camp, tired and weary, and every one glad to take a litde rest,— the whole or lighter portion of the army's baggage not getting over till midnight ; the force halted the next day, ami the following was another long and dreary march, across the Kojuk Desert, about twenty-three miles. The road was level and light, which in itself was a treat, and with the exception of its extreme barren- ness, and there being no water, the march was not to be complained of; the next day we had to march to our destination, Candahar, after eight- teen days on the route, into cantonments ; these were three buildings erected for the Sepoys ; but as the cold weather was setting in, and tlie Europeans had suffered so much, they were ordered to take up their winter quarters, to the great joy of every one, — for anything before canvass, to protect from the vari- able inclemency of the weather in Afghanistan. The principal part of the Troops left at Quetta, went down through the Bolun and via Soomeanee, towards the Provinces, and the 40th were still in the field, to await some farther opportunity of distinguishing and adding to the established gal- iiiiiiij vi liix: ^v pB. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, 207 for sale, the har- tcdious lies ere ir toil in bottom ) d every r lighter over till and the niaicb, ;e miles. If was a barren- reh was had to r elght- ise were t as the ans had up their le, — for e vari- stan. Quetta, neanee, re still iriity of ed gal- llie Sepoy cantonment spoken of, in which wo were quartered, v/as in an unfinished state, and was built in three squares, each capable of holding one Regiment, or about one thousand mei^ ; they were built of nmd, the walls nine feet thick, about two hundred and fifty feet square, arched roofs, no windows, simply a sort of embrasures as ventilators ; the rooms or barracks were ranged two on each side, and formed three entrances ; they were about sixteen feet wide, and the floors were nothing more than the earth rudely levelled, no doors, and in fact was short of being a good stable ; but even these were comfortable indeed, when compared with the tents, in which we had been nearly three years, save in the wretched huts at Kurrachie, and as the sickness of Quetta still prevailed, we hoped to rest in obscure peace. This, however, was not to be. Candahar is a city and fortress about three-fourths of a mile square,contains four main streets, or bazaars, abounds well with trade, and has about 10,000 inha- bitants ; traffic and merchandize of every descrip- tion carried on to a very great extent, and the adjacent country appeared much to depend on its general market ; almost daily conv^oys were arriving from ^ Kelat,' 'Cabool,' and other distant places, and generally speaking, produce was sold at a reasona- ble rate — and trade at this time was flourish- ing, as there could not be less than 9,000 or 10,000 Troops, who, of course, had to be supported from their markets. On the west side of the 20S SCENES m jl soldier s life. Fort stood a splendid (though almost in ruina,) Citadel, the residence of the Governor ; it was well fortified, and afforded a fine refuge in the time of need ; it fronted one of the main streets, which led to a large dome that stood in the immediate centre of the town, and formed a sort of exchange, and its rear formed part of the west wall of the city. There are five gates or entrances to the city, called : — The Topah Khana, or ^ general entrance, the Herat, Shikarpore, Edgar and Cabool Gates. The first named led directly to the cantonments, which were about one and a half miles from the city ; the Herat Gate was in the p«me side of the square of the Fort as the Topah Khana. The other gates, bhikarpore and Cabool, were called so from their leading directly to the routes for those places, and formed the entrances to the north and east sides ; and the Edgar was tlic one used by the Governor, as his private entrance on the north side, and was called so from its leading to the Temple, where he worshipped ; all the gates save the Topah Khana and Herat were generally closed, and opened only on particular occasions. Near the first named gate, inside the city, stands a beautiful Temple or Mausoleum, in which are interred several ancient great families. Its entrance, like every other Eastern town, is rude, dirty, and void of all taste ; nothing more than a small gate in a narrow dirty lane, which opened into a neglected though spacious court-yard, in iha oanirn nf tvIiIpTi sfnnrl iho MonenloiiTn • -rht V'W/ XTX-^^tiSJ-ViV' Vti-ii ' uj^vui sd^l^ IF 1' 6QLDIER*8 Ltl^, m^ I rums,) vas well time of hich led e centre change, II of the ;he city, ntrance, I Gates, nments, he city ; ! square r gates, m their ;es, and t sides ; •vernor, nd was here he Khana opened named anple or ancient Eastern lothing , which t-yard. nine latge steps led to a fine portieo, and e^thtlyiteif^ a lovely piece of architecture, in the ^x^^ribr' and^ ihterior richly carved and gilt j it had otle citcvAkr^ domed roof, which was pecdliarly and bea^tiftilly knit together in carved wood, aiid tCrriihiated witS* a central ornament, from which was suspended' sf* large piece of solid gold ; round the tempf6 i^erif^ boxes for pews, in front of which were niarble sf^tri^ With Persian inscriptions, from the Koran. 0|)pO8lt6 to the entrance stands an altar for the sacred voIume| '' on a pedestal, and each book locked up, cchratta' with scarlet and other cloths ; the flooi^waSCoVeredr" with a splendid Persian carpet. To the left v^kA ihii^ Tomb of ^Ahmed Shah,' grandfather to the pt'e^eni^ King of Cabool, Shah Shooja, and grto gfatitf- father to Timor Shah, then Governor of CatidaWsijr ; the front was of white marble, and eov^ererf \<^iiii a** crimson silk velvet pall, edged w'ith blad^'; at iih^ head stood the standard of thie resting Moftaifcihv wittf the sacred symbol of their religibtf, ari o^^k hsthd! There were several other tonlbs, the details of whicli' I did not inquire into. In the streets leading from tiie ' Citadel, is a large building for general assemblies, to^^ wlr'ch are attached the Governor's baths, in which, ' also, are several fine gardens ; there are many other ndble buildings in Cahdahar, arid arto^etter l'' looked upon it as one of the most flourishing aiid" handsome Eastern cities I had s^'en. Timor Shah, the Governor, arid Stiftur' Jung; the Stib-Goveruor, his step-brothejr and son of Shai 210 BC£N£S IN A SOLDI EU's LIFK, Sbooja, were present atCandaliar; the latter looked after the dUpusitiuns of their army, and the former governed the place. Major General Nott commanded ; Major Kavvlin- 8on was the Political Uepresentativc. Captain Anderson commanded the Shah's Artillery— Cap- tain Leeson his Cavalry ; and each officer who com- manded a IJegimcntol the Shah's Infantry, had lull charge of it, and it was called after him. Shah Shooja's Troops were in a very high state of disci- pline, and, if 1 may he allowed the remark, 1 think their general knowledge of the use of arms, bespoke an unwise and ungovernment-liks act on the part of our authorities, to permit the Troops of another, almost strange nation, to be instructed in our art of war; many times has this proved itselfa gross error. Shah Shooja, having been placed by us on the Throne, was permitted to have a certain number of Regiments organized by British officers, and instruct- ed precisely in the same art as we practice ; no doubt with a good intention, being allies, &c. So far was this permission carried out, that Shah Shooja had not less than an army of over 1^,000 disci- plined men. About two and a half miles iimiik west of the cantonment, in a low range of mountains, was a narrow defile or pass that led to a fine fertile CiM. jitvy called Babba Walle, and Killa Shuk, on it^ ig!it hand, and on the left a still finer country, Mirough which ran the River Urgun-Duub. n ;i- 8C£NE3 IN A SOLDIE&'s LIFE. su bar was so completely surrounded by mountains, that, turn which vvay you would, you must enter the bills, and there appeared nothing but desolation and hardship for the soldier. The enemy up to this time had been pretty quiet. Despatches were received from Ghuznee, that Colo- nel Palmer, commanding there, was in want of as- sistance, there being very great appearances of an outbreak. Accordingly, (Jeneral Nott sent off a de- tachment, well calculated to reinforce Ghuznee, under command of that gallant oflicer. Major McLaren^ who commenced his march, taking with him pro- visions for the force at Ghuznee. He had not pro- ceeded far before the weather grew very inclement| the snow fell profusely, and the country being very mouiitanous, and tlie roads in many places narrow and intricate, the snow filled up the defiles in a great measure, and prevented their proceeding, either forward or even back to Candahar. The greater portion of the cattle carrying his provisions were asses, and the remainder camels and bullocks;, the weather was extremely cold, and there being no shelter for the cattle, and nothing more than a tent for the Troops, the expedition began to look unfortunate, and the position alarming ; the Major was anxious to return, or to assist the needy at Ghuznee, but conld not ; he was also anxious to re- fit his force by returning, but could not; but had to. remain several days in camp, in tbe most awful oC miserable weather ; the consequence was, that ik9i Hi 8CENE8 IH A SOLDIER'S ..IFE. cattle died in great numbers ; the provisions, having no place to shelter them, became saturated with the thawing snow, and were in great quantities des- troyed; the road in advance was well known to be worse than that already traversed, and therclbre the distressed Major had with cxtreni j dilRculty to return 1o Candahar, in an alarmingly helpless state, with (Comparatively no cattle, and the Troops sick and weak, having suffereti great loss in every way. Daily the weather at Candahar grew colder, which was miserable for the Troops, particularly for the Sepoys, not being able to stand cold so well as the Europeans. About this time several natives of a suspicious character appeared in the city, and were arrested as spies; and, from intelligence gained, a rumour broke out that all was not right, and seldom does a rnmour exist in a camp, but there is some grounds for it, though they may not immediately be discover- ed ; this rumour was corroborated by occasionally smal! parties of soldiers (dtscvpUnedJ belonging to ihe Shah's Regiments, deserting, and more so by a drcumstance which happened, which the reader rtiay jiidge for himself. Suftur Jung, stated to be in charge of the Native Army, fnotdiscivUnedJ of the Governor, his brotlier, and being of the same caste as greater part of the dtsctplmed Troops of his father, had made an agreement with numbers of these men, that they -1 l-S J X J _j.-!al- U? i-x- J.!.- 1'11_ _ .11 i oiiiluIU UUSUri UilU gV » iili iJiiii ililU lilt3 illiiS, COIieCl the surrounding Tribes, join in one grand assembly BCIINES IN A SOLDIIiR'S Uf^ 219 havinff vHh the cs dea- n to be lore the ) return e, with ck and Daily ich was 5epoys, [)peans. picio'd^ rrested rumour does a rounds scover- ionally ?ing to 50 by a reader Native rotiier, of the de an it they collect lembly with Akbar Ktian, and attack the British at Canda- har : this was settled upon, and it got out. Th^ European officers, who commanded the Shah'y Troops, did all in their power to prevent sucji a proceeding, but a number of them attacked two of their oflicers und killed them, and afterward* deserted to the enemy ; the greater portion of thesQ wore belonging to the Shah's Artillery, all more or less instructed in our art of gunnery, and disciplined by us, thus bringing the old adage to bear — " You make a rod to beat yourself." This of course greatly roused the half-grounded suspicions of the Govern- ment in Candahar, and they commenced to operate on matters as they stood. On the 25th of December, 1841, about seven, P. M., a body of men were seen advancing towards the city, with the intentioHi it was thought, of making an attack ; the alarm was sounded, and in fifteen minutes every man was under arms, and drawn up ready for action in any quarter. This was the first symptom of warfare we had seen in Aftghanistan, and from this hour our troubles commenced in right earnest ; but this was soon lulled by the disappearance of the body in question ; the night was dark, and no doubt from the sound of so many bugles, trumpets, drums, &c., they judged it wise to make off. The Troops returned to their quarters, but remained accoutred, and lay on their arms all night. One thing bore out another; AvrvKmc* ivv^ am arms. No mail had been received since the 15th ImU 214 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. and it was concluded that the enemy had adopted the plan of cutting off all correspondence ; everything remained in anxiety, suspense, and anticipated wretchedness. The whole of the Troops were con- stantly under anns, the guns ready loaded for action ; provisions lay ah iigsido the cattle, ready for loading ; cattle were placed with each Regiment and Detach- ment, ready to march at a moment's warning ; the Commissariat had a month's provisions prepared to place upon cattle; in fact everything was in uproar, but order; and scarce any knew what was goingon. Sentinejs were placed in the most advantageous places. Field pieces were stationed to fire in any and every direction, look-out sentinels were placed by day, with telescopes, on the mountains near, and as night came on, out-lying piquets and patroles were mount- ed, and the rest lay on their arms and slept but for short periods; the distant, lonely sentinel, would probably observe Irom his post some party in the distance ; shots would be exchanged, and this Would of course raise an alarm ; every man would be roused and stand to his arms ; this would occur many times during a night, and thus was the rest of the poor soldier continually broken. About the middle of January, 1842, acossid (courier) having escaped the vigilance of the enemy, arrived with des- patches from Cabool, giving an account of the awful catastrophe there — of the total annihilation of ilin /Ld-fVi T?p<Thnonf anf\ ihn orrn\r (\C (^>\\\f\/Al Civflafa were also received from General Elphinstone, to •pted the erythiiig ticipated ere con- r action ; loading; Detach- ng; the pared to I uproar, joingon. itageoiis any and 3 by day, as night ; mount- i but for , would y in the ,nd this vould be Lir many t of the B middle escaped th des- of the lation of ;one, to SCENES IN A SOLDIEB^S LIFE. 215 evacuate Ghuznee, Kelat-I-Gilzic and Candahar, the former to be made over to Shooms-ood-dien Khan, who would cause the Troops to be conduct- ed safe to the provinces. These orders were, it ap- pears, under the direction of tlie Envoy, M'Naugh ten, at Cabool, who found it necessarry to evacuate Affghanistan ; but Major Leceh,the Toiitical Agent, and Captain Craigic, Commanding at Kelat-I-Gilzie, and General Nott at Candahar, could not, under existing circumstances, comply with the order. Of course obedience is the first duty of a soldier, but in this case it remains to be judged whether such disobedience was discreet or not. The Troops still remained underarms, the enemy was a great source of annoyance, which, with the coldness of the nights, and the heat of the days, made the men weary of their existence. The awful intelligence was cor- roborated by the arrival of another cossid from Cabool, reporting the murder of Sir Alexander Burns, Sir Wm. M'Naughten, and several others, also of the taking of Ladies Sale, M'Naughten, and a great many other prisoners. The loss of the British Troops was said to be upwards of 12,000; this was dreadful news indeed ; the reader may no doubt imagine the feelings of the Army at Candahar; the same enemy was en route to, if possible, destroy every British Force in Affghanis- tan, and that enemy in numbers four to one against us. General Nott, however, was still in possession of Candahar, and issued an order that every inha- ^l§ SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. .Ijjtant must immediately Jay in six months' pmxi- j^ions at least, as he expected to be besieged ; all .possible purchases were made, of any and every .^ind, for the Troops; all valuable property, stores, ,&c., were piaccd in the Citadel, and everything was ,}n readiness tor battle. General Sale had reached , Jcllalabad from Cabool before the out-break, and ivas then similarly situated to Nott, with the 13th .Light Infantry, and the 36th Bengal N. I., and all ,^aited the approach of the enemy. It appears that jthe insurrection was under Akbar Khan, son of Dost Mahoined Khan, the late King of Cabool, and now ,ja, prisoner in our hands at Calcutta. Akbar, find- ing that matters, in their present state, were all in }d^ Oivour, and having a strong army, determined fto make t^e best use of it. ^ 7he particulars of this unfortunate aifair, I will .give in their own place, when I shall relate the story ' ,of the days at Cabool, briefly, but sufficiently clear, to enable my readers to know the principal features of tUe facts. It is impossible to describe the feelings .of the Troops at Candahar, at learning the sad situa- tion of the ladies as prisoners— the women, the pride of Britain, the joy of our hearts, and the only source jof happiness in our worldly travail ! Can it be sup- posed we could evacuate the countrj^ in which they were incarcerated? I should not like to be the man to say yes ! unless I intended to war with mankind ,and become the most odious of my sex. ' gcd; all id every ', stores, ling was reached ;ak, and he 13th and all <irs that of Dost nd now ir, find- e all in irmined , I will e story V clear, fcuresof eelings I situa- e pride source e sup- h they eman Qkind, 9f^E§ IN ^ soldier's life. 217 The state of Candahar, in January, 1842, was unenviable, and the Troops dreadfully harrassed, and in the depth of winter; but to proceed. Suftur Jung, mentioned as having leit Candahar, had taken the tield and joined the rebels, who had come down from Cabool, and collected themselves under Actar Mahomed Khan, a general of Akbar's, and who had dispersed them in several bodies hovering round the vicinity of the city; they annoyed us very much' by attacking our outposts, and small foraging parties, destroying the mills and crops, murdering the work people, hamstringing the cat- tle belonging to the tranquil natives bringing in supplies, turning off water, and in many other ways ; thus woe and misery were the ruling features ; the sentinel on his post at the dead of night would be fired at, and alarms would consequently be raised. We had all been under arms, booted, spurred and accoutred, since the 25th December, night and day ; twice, thrice, or even oftener, we would have to fall in ready for action during the night, in conse- quence of the shots of the enemy coming into camp ; the guns were distributed in such a man- ner that, come w Jch way they would, they confront- ed the enemy; this was, night after night, and week after week, carried on ; our rest, little as it was, broken, and each hoped with the dawn of day to see the enemy, in order to have a contest, and end the miseries we were enduring ; and at length our wishes were in some measure realized. 218 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. The spies our functionaries had out, were con- Ihually bringing in accounts of the movements of the enemy, who now appeared to have made a sort of stand, and taken up a determined position at Killa Shuk, about eight miles northeast of Canda- har. General Nott, having become somewhat confident as to their numbers and probable power, determined to attack them, and on the 11th of January, 1842, warned about 7000 Troops, including Ar- tillery, Cavalry and Infantry. The 40th, being the oply European Regiment then at Candahar, of course became the base of the Army, and the General remarked that every man with a white face . was looked up to as the stronghold for the support of Candahar. In consequence of the order to be in readiness to march at daybreak on the following morning, all became bustle. The cantonments were to be evacuated. The sick of all the corps, together with all heavy baggage and stores, were to be left in the Citadel, where already our Com- missariat, Treasure, Ordnance, and the Governor, were. Four 18-pounders were placed in front of the Citadel, facing the dome, and up the principal street. These were primed and loaded— ready for action—as it was surmised that, after the Troops named, had left the city, no doubt the inhabitants 'would rise in rebellion and attempt to take the Cita- del. These precautions— together with the whole of the gates of the city being ordered to be immediately SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 219 vere con- inients of de a sort sition at f Canda- !onfident iermined Fanuary, ing Ar- h, being mdahar, and the tiite face support ;r to be )lIowing )nments B corps, 3s, were ir Com- )vernor, front of rincipal iady for Troops ibitants le Cita- ^hole of idiately blocked up with bags of sand, flour, rice, &c. in fact anything brought by the natives, — were very praiseworthy. The troops proceeding to the field were lightly equipped, taking nothing more than one shirt and a pair of socks, also a towel and a day's rations in their haversacks, ready cooked ; all the bedding and additional necessaries belonging to the men were thrown in a heap in labelled bundles, and with the sick and unfits, were sent to the Citadel. On the 12th, at daybreak, a very cold morning, we commenced our march for Killa Shuk. The route led through a narrow defile, situate about one-and- a-half miles from the cantonments, and from thence into a lovely valley, intersected with small rivulets and nullahs ; here and there was seen a village, and a few tranquil natives, driving their asses and camels to our camp. As we approached, the country became more level, and in the dis- tance were seen small bodies of the enemy, and again came deep nullahs or ditches — these had to be jumped or wsded over. The sun had now risen, and shone upon an immense sheet of water. This, it appeared, arose from the enemy having turned the water over the land, with a view to swamp the country, and, if not intercept our approach, greatly to annoy us. The country was in this state for about three miles— and, what with the severity of the wea- ihpr liiivinor in vvnrlpi im to the hiDs throuffh water, and standing continually or walking through it ankle 220 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. deep— greatly tried the younger branches of the force, who were just recovering from the awful effect of the late sickness. But this was not to be con- sidered when the enemy was so near, and we advan- ced as well as we could. Having come sufficiently near the "field of fight," though the ground would not admit of the General making any very practical formations, we were drawn up in columns oi divi- sions. The force was in two brigades ; we advanced and soon saw the main body of the enemy in front situated behind a bank or ridge of a dry ditch in which position it was impossible for them to lose many, and whilst thus situated they could rest their matchlocks on the banks, and take uninterrupted and deliberate aims at us from the traverse. Seeing our near approach, they commenced a heavy fire upon us; the balls whistled through our ranks and over our heads, and each thought his time had come. Gen- eral Nott threw out skirmishers to the front, to cover the brigades during formation : they advanced in gallant style, and kept up a fine irregular fire in opposition to the enemy. It was towards the left of the enemy's line a man, apparently a chief, sat, taking ccol aim, with pieces loaded for him by par- ties hid behind the bank. This chief, distinguished by a white turban, killed five, but was at length popped off by a shot from one of ours, which hit him just in the head, and soon quieted him. The brigade having formed up, the bugle sounded the retire for the skirmishers, and the enemy, seeing SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. m les of the wful effect '0 be con- we advari- ufficiently md would r practical IS oi divi- advanced ^ in front, ' ditcli, in m to Jose rest their iipted and eeing our I upon us ; over our e. Gen- , to cover anced in ar fire in i the left hief, sat, 1 by par- iguished t length hich hit n. The ided the , seeing this, and being unacquainted with onr tactics, thinking they had driven them back, raised a shout, and waved their swords and banners to come on. A buzz was heard in our ranks, with an anxiety to get at them. The British courage being roused at this shouting, Lieutenant Lee, of the 40th, wishing silence to be observed, held up his hand to draw the attention of his men to his orders, when he received a shot through the palm. Up to this time our loss was about twelve men. The line advanced, and at length arrived at the river Urgun Daub, which we had to cross : the stream ran very rapidly and with great force ; its depth was about up ta the hips of a middle-sized man, and it was with great difficulty we got over. Several men were carried down the stream for some distance. The shorter men were unable to protect their ammuni- tion, and the artillery was very hard to be dragged through the stream. Immediately any got over /^.y were thrown out as skirmishers to cover the Tling of the rest, and at length having re- . /rmed, a heavy fire was opened ; the skirmishers were called in, our artillery played well on the enemy and town hard by, which was thronged with men, women and children. The General offered a reward of 5,000 rupees for Actar Maho- med, dead or alive ; several more haughty shouts came from the enemy. But we, exhibiting that snlp.ndid nart of our discinline. steadiness in the ranks, heeded' not their cries. At length, after a 222 SCENES IN A SOLDIEK's LIFE, smart battle for some time, the General gave the word "Charge !" Every heart was filled with apparent desperation; arush ensued; the enemy flew like chaflf before the wind; the guns played with grape, shell, &c. The Cavalry and Infantry charged in line style and in the course of a few moments, hundreds of the enemy lay dead on the ground, though many, princi- pally mounted, escaped ; had we but had a Kegiment of European Cavalry, not a man would have escaped. The town was routed, and after a severe action of about four hojrs, a victory was gained, and I am happy to say, with comparatively little damage on our side. I gave the li apparent v like chaff ape, shell, line style, reds of the n y, princi- Kegimcnt e escaped, ere action led, and I e damage CHAPTER XIII. The Return; Severe Weather; Miserable Prospects; F(»rli)ni state of the Sick; Miseries of Hospitals in India; Cnnduut of Native Servuiith; i'ullcuors cut off; Massacre of a Guard; Fighting for F(>rii;^o; Severity of the Winter; Enomioug loss of Cuttle in consequence; A Defeat; Gfeat loss; Forage procured; Sad news; The loss of Ghuznee; Treaty broken; Kneuiy still about; Preparations fur hard warfare; Seven days' bivouucking; Description of lioiite; Nairow escape of Genenil Ntitt; Skirmishes too numerous to detail; Harriisaing atta«!ks; Enemy Cowards; Unsuccessful jotiiney; The Return; Attack on the City; VaUant comluct of the 8iek; Bravery of the Troops; Noble conduct of an Artillery Guard; Treachery of some Native Sentinels. The Cavalry having returned, the force was ordered to march back to Candahar, in consequence of the extreme frost at night, and the men having walked and stood so many hours in water ; on reaching about half way, the advance guard saw another or the same body of the enemy assembled on a hill to our left, but seeing us advance towards them, fled, and we arrived at the cantonments about sun-set. Immediately after the sun went down, the frost came on very severe ; we repaired to our nominal rooms, tired and weary, cold and miserable, the frost so severe that the wooiiea 224 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. trousers of the men, being saturated with the water, were frozen stiff round our legs ; and to render it more wretched, the men had no bed or change of clothes, as previous to marching to the field of fight, as before stated, the whole of the baggage was sent to the Citadel, and thrown into a heap, so that it was useless at that hour of night to attempt to find and distribute it; besides every man was so weary and tired; no fire, no food, because that day's rations were taken with them, and eaten ; in fact there was no comfort wherewith to nourish the poor harrassed soldier, just returned most miserable from the scene of death. Most awful sensationg visited me, as well as I may* say every one, who, comparing our present situations with that of home and tranquillity, with friends to console and soothe our affections. It was oft in these extreme trials that I have thought on by-gone days ; but, it was but a thought, and 'twas over; it recurred to my mind I was a soldier, and it ill became me to give way to so weak and disadvantageous ideas, and I have found myself raised by hopes that it would soon end, and that I was serving my country. Next day, every one was busily employed in re-fetching and regulating their few necessaries. The city during the battle of yesterday, was all quiet ; trade of all kinds was suspended by order of the General, and those natives who were in ih&' city seemed anxious to know the result of the battle. The sick of our Troops were very miserably BCKNE8 IN A 80LDIEUS LIFE. -I'JLiJ lie water, render it hange of 1 of fight, was sent that it pt to find JO weary at day'i ; in fact irlsh the (liserahle tnsations ne, who, of home d soothe ials that as but a mind I s way to I have lid soon oyed in irics. was all order of in the of the iserably nituated, 8iuldei\ly removed from off a still bed in the hospital of the cantonments, to that of a cold hovel, with every privation, scarce attendance cnou^yjli to perform the common necessities of nature, so weak and furlorn; coarse food, badly cooked, none to sympathize, none to ask the soothinc: ques- tion, " is there auythinf? you wish for, or that I can do for vouV" none to administer those little comforts SO beneficial to one in a state of sickness ; with a mattress of straw on the cold ground, amid every kind of disturbance and uproar, unable to rise from off the pillow, to even reach a draught, and afraid to ask, lest a reluctant and indolent native attendant should feign ignorance, refuse or neglect. If there is one thing more than another which ought to be strictly looked after and attended to, on a line of march, it is a sick soldier. It will be almost impossible for any one unacquainted with the life of a campaigner in India, to even conceive the miseries of an hospital in the field. A more dejected, lost creature, does not exist, than a sick soldier on a long march in India ; it must, nevertheless, be ad- mitted, that the allowances of Government to the medical branch of the Army in India, is on a most liberal scale ; surgeons, apothecaries, apprentices, stewards, and a most extensive establishment of not less than three hundred attendants to each Regiment, are allowed for the sick ; no stint is given to the allowance, comforts of any and every kind at the discretion of the surgeons ; but it is the 22(3 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. atterdon evinced by these attendants ; it becomes a more nominal duty to them ; they are of different castes, Hindoos, Mussulmen, &c., and they perform their respective duties to a certain extent, but do not enter into that fine feeling of humanity towards the Christians, as is shown in an English Hospital. Let a man be ever so sick, though in the last stage of life, if the Troops are ordered to march, he must be carried in a palanquin, and jolted on the shoulders of four men a day's march, averaging about twelve miles. The chances are, on his reaching the new ground, through the non-arrival of the liospital tents, that he may lie exposed to the heat of the Indian sun two or three hours in the palan- (piin, perhaps in a high stage of fever or dysentery (and several times have I seen when the palanquin has been examined, that the poor wretched man was a corpse ; none knew the exact time of his death ; suffice to say, he was alive when he left camp in the morning,) or on the arrival of the tent, tossed helpless into it, on an unprepared bed, on damp ground, with perhaps bad brackish water, and have to remain so, four, six, or eight hours, before the coarse meal would be ready, and when ready, issued in a most rude manner ; truly it may be said, every nicety of comfort cannot be expected in a place like ihat, which will be readily admitted ; but it is merely to point out the absurdity of our Go- vernment in India, in placing so much trust in these native attendants, whose general idea is to plunder SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 227 Bcomes a different perform , but do towards lospital. ist stage he must on the i^eraging reaching il of the the heat e palan- ^sentery alanquin led man le of his he left the tent, bed, on I water, it hours, ad when Y it may expected Iraitted ; our Go- in these plunder the allowance of the poor sick, and who, from a conviction that the Europeans are in a sphere above them, and infidels in their belief, contrary to their caste, and averse to the white face, feel an inward pleasure in privately (for openly they dare not,) oppressing and filching at any little opportunity they can. I could speak at a far greater length on this subject ; but, perhaps, my readers may be able to form an idea of their general conduct from what I have already said, and one cannot be found that could exaggerate this subject ; it may be said, Does not the surgeon prevent this ? Yes, would be the true answer, when he can ever detect anything ; but they are too cunning : who is there that has travelled in India, but will agree with me in des- cribing the general character of the menial native, to be that of the most hostile to humanity, and whose extreme craftiness and truly mean, dishonest disposition, render them almost hated ? In short, the menial native servant of every European feels a pleasure, and considers it a matter of course, that a portion of anything entrusted to him, is his, and it is well known that an imaginary item in a gen- tleman's account of expenditure, is, so much pilfered by these servants ; and there is no evading it. But to proceed. The day following the battle, all was arranged as before it, still the enemy ho- vered in the vicinity of our camp ; a few days after our Commissiariat sent a quantity of wheat to be ground at a neighbouring mill, accompanied by 228 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. about seven men with twenty camels. The enemy attacked tliem when there, destroyed the grain and mill, took away the camels and heads of the seven men, who were discovered next day. A few days after this a small out-guard, consist- ing of a Havildar (Sergeant) and six Sepoys, were attacked at dead of night, and all but one were beheaded ; the one left was tied, to tell the tale, and he would not have been allowed to escape but it happened that he was a Mussulman, same as them- selves ; those that were murdered were Hindoos, and belonged to the 16th Native Infantry. They were discovered when the new guard went to relievo them the next morning. It was never known how they came upon them past the sentinels, but it was surmised the guard was not as alert as it ought to have been, or an alarm must necessarily have been raised, which would have been heard in camp. On the 21st of February, a considerable force was sent out for the purpose of collecting forage for our cattle, consisting of about four regiments, and five hundred followers, with several hundreds of camels, mules, horses, &c., and on their arrival at the place, a village about four miles south of Candahar, it was found to be occupied by the enemy in apparent great numbers; the ground was a fine plain, and our troops formed a line, and the enemy sallied from the fort and village, and attacked in a manner worthv of nraise : we kpiit nn n finp fim which was opposed strongly by them; they endea- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 229 5 enemy I'ain and le seven consist- 's, were le wer<} ale, and 3 but it IS them- findoos, Thev ► relieve ivn liow t it was 'Ugllt to ve been ip. e force : forage iments, indreds arrival )uth of enemy 3 a fine enemy cd in a np firo '■} endea- voured to work round our flanks, but without effect ; a charge was attempted, but they retreated into the fort ; they again sallied out, and I regret to say that after a severe contest of about four hours, our force was obliged to retreat, with the loss of about fifty Sepoys and one hundred and fifty followers, together with a great number or nearly all the cattle. I watched the battle for upwards of three hours, from the top of the mountain that I have already de- scribed as being situate opposite the cantonments, and used for two sentinels, one European, and one native, with a telescope ; it was by means of a glass that I was able to discern the exact move- ments of the battle; several others went up to look at the affray, and the whole camp was in uproar, fully expecting that a reinforcement would be sent out ; but the retreating force soon arrived in camp, and sad indeed was the loss of cattle, because car- riage of every description was extremely scarce, and had we then to proceed on a long march, I question if we could have moved with facility, for want of carriage. In consequence of the severity of the winter, the number of casualties amongst the cattle was enormous ; every morning would be seen the carcasses of ten or twenty camels, besides bul- locks and horses ; the Commissariat, as well as every other Department, lost nearly all their camels. ^ To shew more clearly the extent of the loss sustained •„ au« r<-^,r^«^, ./^«+ nnii\n nn* nf thft nnmbfir of camels brought from Quetta, in October, 1841, to 230 SCENES IN A SOLDIEB'S LIFE. Candahar, which were seven hundred and thirty, only thirty-three remained on the 1st of March, 1842, independent of all the private and public cattle belonging to other sources. The same epi- demic appeared in all the stations of troops down the country, such as Killa-ab-Doola, immediately below the Kojuk Heights, Quetta, Dadur, Shikar- pore, Sukkur, Hydrabad, Tatta, and Kurrachie; the total loss of camels, from the latter place to Candahar, was not less than twelve thousand during the winter of 1841, besides the loss sus- tained ^ith the force which advanced on Ghuznee, under Col. McLaren, who, in consequence of ex- treme inclemency of weather, it will be remembered, was obliged to return; what those were in the Upper Provinces I know not, but if compared with these now named, they must be very great ; each camel costs Government from eighty to one hundred and thirty rupees, — about thirteen pounds ; the almost innumerable incidents that occur to me, I fear too often draw my attention from the precise subject, but I trust I shall be excused, as it is with a sincere wish to convey as much in- teresting matter as possible to enable the reader more fully to define the situation of our troops. After the failure of the foraging party, the Gene- ral was determined to route the insurgents from their rendezvous, and directed a still stronger force to pro- ceed to the same place, under Coloiiei Wymer, S'Sth Bengal Native Infantry ; and great care was taken [ thirty, March, public me epi- s down idiately Shikar- rachie ; )lace to ousand 'SS sus- iuznee, of ex- nbered, in the !d with ; each undred 5 ; the to me, m the [cused, ich in- reader ps. Gene- n their to pro- r, 38th taken SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 231 to have a good supply of ammunition, and a rein- forcement was held in readiness ; they marched early in the morning, and on their arrival found that the enemy had evacuated the place ; but not before burning and destroying all the forage and grain in the fort and vichiity. On the 1st of March, another force was despatch- ed about four miles on this side of Killa Shuk, and the 40thj together with a native Regiment, were desp ttched in a hidden direction through the narrow defile, as a reserve force, in the event that the party should be attacked; several were seen hovering about at a considerable distance, and in order to prevent the tranquil villagers from bringing in supplies, they used to hamstring their asses, and strew their loads on the ground, and thus render them useless to all parties. Nothing of moment, however, occurred, and about sunset, having got in a fair supply of forage, we returned to camp. Candahar still remained dormant as to the receipt of news ; the Kojuk Heights, and the vari- ous passes and routes from the upper c(»untry being in possession of the enemy. Sometimes a casual cossid (courier) would arrive with a secret letter for the General or Political Agent; the cossid must have escaped miraculously, for death was the lot of any native found carrying any letter or succour whatever to us ; it was by one of these secrei pomoiis ui uuiiccpx/Jiviv^w, v^.-.^v — the fate of the force at Ghuznee ; news arrived 232 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. one morning from that place, and brought us the sad intelligence that the prisoners of Cabool were still in the hands of Akbar Khan, and that Sirdar 8hooms-ood-Decn Khan, a General, and relative of Akbar's, had been despa+^hed to Ghuznee, with instrueiions to treat witl lel Palmer, who had already received directioho from General Elphln- stone, to the effect, that he should give up Ghuz- nee to the Sirdar (General) on his arrival ; and that he, the Sirdar, would see the force at Ghuznee safely conducted to tlie Provinces. This treaty, it appears,! was entered into by the parties; but on the Sirdar obtaining possession of the fortress, instead of conducting the force, as anticipated, he caused them all to be made close prisoners ; kept the officers, and a lady, Mrs. Lundy, as state prisoners in the Citadel, and numbers of the Sepoys, of the 27th Native Infantry, were sold as slaves to the surrounding farmers. This second act of treacher} led us to conclude that Akbar was at the bottom. The bare idea of entering into a solemn negociation, and then with all the odiousness of an assassin to break it, and become an oppressor, called forth the loudest acclamations of revenge from every British sub- ject in the country. We also learned the fate of M^Naughten, at a greater length ; he was killed by Akbar Khan, at a. hostile meeting, called for the purpose of further- ing the subject of evacuating Affghanistan. The SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 233 particulars of this will be seen iu a future chapter —treating on this particular subject. Killat-I-Gilzie, the stronghold in our possession, between Candahar and Ghuznee, was still besieged, and the provisions there were reported by Captain J. H. Craigie, commanding, to be about sufficient for four months. The enemy still kept up thrt spirit of warfare, by hovering round the vicinity of the camp ; and so great was the annoyance, that it was dangerous to walk even a few yards from the cantonments, as the chances were, that some infatuated few of the rebels would be secreted behind a bush, and rush out with drawn swords or huge knives, and spite of the almost certainty of being killed, would risk it by making a cut at a passer by. On many occasions did this occur, and, of course, the consequence was that the wretches generally, not more than two, were killed on the spot. So repeated were the acts of this out- rageous nature, that it began to open the eyes of the General, and he determined to rout them if possible ; accordingly he issued orders, to the effect, thai, he anticipated a movement of the, greater portion of the Troops for a few days, for the pur- pose of scouring the vicinity of Candahar. His orders were voiy rigid, and his arrangements in the town, prior to his moving, excellent. He prohibited any traffic or trade during his absence, directed all the gates should be blockaded as before, and that a 234 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. guard equal to two Ecgiments, composed of iiartics Of all coq)s and also the sick and convalescents, to be left ,n the Citadel, where the Governor Timour Shah, resided; all the baggage, as be^ fore, was deposited there-the Troops proceeding were to take no tents, only one blanket, (which weighed about two and a half pounds,) and one change of linen, to enable us to meet any difficulty chance threw in our way. Thus equipped, on the iT.niuV*"' ^*'' **'"■'''''*''•' 40th Europeans, the 16th,38th, 42nd, and43rd Regiments Bengal Native Infantry, together with European Artillery, (six guns) marched east of Candahar, and in full hopes of having a chance of soundly drubbing the cowardly rebels, who had been the cause of so much harrass- ment to us during the last three months. The emissaries had given information of the enemy s position, and in short, everything led us to hope that we should soon have the opportunity we wished for. ' After marching about eight miles under a chain of mountains, already described as being situated near Candahar, we halted ; this was about sunset, and in a village some half mile in front of our bivonaked encampment, we saw the enemy throng- mg into it, and seated on the walls. An attack was surmised; but the General was of opinion, that as It was growing dark, we should defer it till the morrow, when, no doubt, they would be greatly .«-xv«;,^u, aiiu ua me morrow, we should have a SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 235 r parties esceiits, )vernor, as bc- ceeding (whicli nd one ifficiilty on tlie ins, the Native Yi (six opes of tvardly irrass- Df the led us tunity chain uated unset, ►f our rong- twas that t till eatly ive a long day to thrash them in, and with a decidedly better chance of a glorious victory. Our night's rest was not to be envied. The force being divided, formed a square, having the guns at the angles ; each Regiment being in line, broke into open columns ; the rear rank facing to the right about. Each man had to lie on his arms, in case of alarm : nothing remained to be done but rise, take up hia piece, and closing the ranks, every man was in his place, ready for any movement. Our scanty meal was cooked, and we sat on the cold ground, in the dark, to partake of it ; some sat up awhile to talk over the various rumours in the camp, and in a short time, every one, save the guards, rolled him- self, in his martial cloak, and lay down to rest. The comforts and pleasantness of such a bed, such a place, and such a position, may be easily imagin- ed. The simple act of lying out all night in the open air, and exposed to the heavy tropical dews- is nothing of itself, as a hardship ; but when coupled with the probability of a night attack of a treacher- ous foe, in a country almost unknown to any of us, rendered it alarming, indeed. So much for a bivouac. After a cold night's rest we found the enemy had evacuated the village, and we recommenced our march at six, A. M., towards the valley of " Kuk." We came to a wide plain betwixt the hills, when, about seven o'clock, on the left was seen the enemy assembled in large bodies. The Brigades 23G SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. wlieeled into line, flanked by Artillery and Cavalry • the General ordered each Kegiment to advance by echellon from the left. The enerny seeing our movement, advanced also. Our skirmishers were thrown out at a considerable distance to cover our advance. The enemy adopted our plan, and threw out an advance to meet our skirmishers. The lire kept up by both sides was almost terriiic. As we came up, the enemy fired a volley, but happily without effect. We again formed line : the skirmishers were called in, and our artdlery played in fine style. Several mobs of the enemy seeing us formed up, began to retire. VVe still advanced, and it was really amusing to see the havoc our shells and grape had on the mobs here and there ; about eighty or a hundred would be assembled, when suddenly a spherical case shot, or small shell, would burst immediately over their heads, and of course kill a number of them Ihey would scud away as if frightened to death, and decamped, evidently with their weak nerves astonished. The plain was, as usual, intersected with deep nullahs and ditches of water, the crossing of which greatly affected our line, and those ac- quainted with military discipline can easily imagine the difficulty experienced in advancing in line nnder such circumstances, as a line, if possible, should never be broken ; an irregular fire was still kept up at alternate periods when opportunity J „„.^^ „^ i^ii^m we arnveu on tlie banks of SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 237 the river IJrgiin Daub, which was wide, and its sides were too steep to /i^et the g^uns over. The enemy had ah-cady crossed, and we could not, with discretion. The General lindinj^ it impossible to £(et at them, directed us to retire two miles and form camp. 'J'lic bafi^ga<]^e had been kept en masse in rear of the line. We retired accordingly, but not without inwardly expressing a deep regret at not having the satisfaction of thrashing the wretches who had caused us that day so much fatigue. We had then marched about fifteen miles after them, nearly seven of which we advanced in line, and with extreme harrassment, and what rendered it more galling, we could plainly see them entering a fort about a mile and a half from us on the other side of the river. They must evidently have suffered a great loss, but to what extent we never can know, because, as usual, they carried off th^ir killed and wounded. They will not permit their dead to lie on the field, if there is the slightest possibility of carrying them off. Many tie themselves to their horses, and, when killed, the horse scampers oft* and is caught by some of them. As we came up we saw several horses lying dead, and two or three wells half filled with bodies. Having retired sufficiently, we again formed our gipsy camp about two, P. M. The sun was very hot, so to shade ourselves, some piled their arms and threw a blanket over the bayonets, to form a I 238 BC£N£S IN A SOLDIEli'S LIFK. covering ; others got bu8he8,jungIe8tickH,rainrod», in fact anything to sticic in the ground, throw their blanket over it to form a sliade Hiniply sufticicnt to protect the head and eyes from the sun's rays, in order to indulge, after so fatiguing a (hiy, in a lit- tle sleep. Having again regaled ourselves with the soldier's sorry meal, the sun set, and the usual precaution for the protection of the camp attended to, we lay on our arms to wile away the night, ready again to proceed after them on the morrow, as the General was determined, if possible, to drive them, or lose by it. As day broke in the morning we rose and march- ed about six, A. M. We had not proceeded far, say half a mile, coming nnder the brow of the mountains to our left, when about thirty of the enemy were seen in a crag, one of whom fired his matchlock, and the ball whizzed close past the General's ear. I shall never forget the feeling that ran through the ranks, fearing that our dear commander was wounded ; but happily it was not so, and immediately skir- mishers were sent to man the hills. They were very steep and craggy. As we advanced, several more small bodies of the enemy hied from crags in the dark hills, in numbers of two, three, four, six, eight, and so on ; and from the firing of our men, distributed on the sides of the hills, the tops of the mountains socn became covered w ith the insurgents. So lofty were the mountains that the men looked about two feet high, and they evidently were taken by sur- SCENES IN A BOLDIEU'S LIFE. 239 )w their ciciit to rays, in in a lit- us with ic usual ttcnded ) night, nurrow, lo drive mar(!h- I'ar, say untains jre seen and the I shall J ranks, unded ; ly skir- y were several I'ags in c, eight, ributed untains 3o lofty )ut two bv sur- prise, and no doubt were part of the enemy who had been dispersed yesterday. The fire of our men told in fine order ; every now and then would be seen one or 4wo dropping from an attempt to climb and escai)e. The body, when shot, if only slightly, would roll with great violence down the precipice and be dashed to pieces. The enemy kept up a fire into our ranks from their high station. They, however, at length finding that British valour was not so easily overcome, managed to retreat to the other side of the mountains ; and the General, un- willing to harass his men more than was actually necessary, called in the skirmishers, and we pro- ceeded on to Pang Wail. The loss on their side was very great, and on ours vice versd. We marched in open columns, the road being pretty wide, and on the right, about a mile and a half oif, we saw a strong body u^ the enemy approaching. Notice was not just now taken of them, and we pro- ceeded to a fort about eight miles from our last encampment. The fort was reported by our spies to be one of the places of rendezvous. A short distance from this fort was a small hill detached from the chain of mountains, which was occupied by about fifty of them. A company was sent to dislodge them, which was soon done, and we took pos- session of the fort, which was found lo be evacu- ated. The enemy on our right made off in the direction of Candahar, it was thought ; but we A i.,->,i c ;ij^..i,, „,^ 1 240 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. of glasses, we were surrounded by large bodies in every direction, and we of course formed up in the same manner as yesterday, but divided into bri- gades ; and as the enemy worked round into one mass, we proceeded towards them with a view to attack them. They retired as we advanced — and being principally mounted, the General considered it was useless to attempt to follow them, as it would only be killing his infantry, and determined not to harass his troops by hunting so dastardly a set of cowards, we repaired back to the fort and fprmed camp round it. It was in a deserted state, not a soul occupying it. The roofs were in a great measure knocked in, dirt and filth in every place. A few bags of wheat and barlev Avere found, and the dead bodies of two old men, who, apparently, had starved from want, being too old to join the insurgents, and no one left to comfort them. This was not the only fort that was evacuated, but every village or town we came near was in like manner deserted. The lovely valleys whose crops were springing up in fine order— the fertile lands were going to decay— buildings were des- troyed — and every inhabitant had left all to join the rebels, and would sooner serve an idolizing monster than tranquilly Avork to cultivate their lands and homes, which, for want of care and industry, would be entirely lost. V/U» \;auip 11113 ^:^\.4. liigui was much annoyed hy straggling shots from the enemy at our videttes. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 241 An extra piquet was placed at some distance from the camp, and in short the arrangements entered into for its protection cannot be too highly spoken of; but when we remember that Major General Nott was the commanding officer, it is quite sufficient to guarantee the correctness of the system ; for where so brave a man as Nott acts under such soldier-like principles, all must go right; and I think I may confidently speak for every one who ever served under lum, that a braver or more discreet, kinder and better man, could not possibly rule over an army, in difficulties, and in the field; and I fervently trust that his name may be honored with glories, and that the just meed due to such worthiness may be showered upon him, for, in short, he was beloved and honored by all who knew him ; but alas I he is dead. We may as well now, I think, advert to the state of Candahar. The majority of the trcops having left, it was strongly suspected that the enemy would attempt an attack on the town, as th^y would ver}' reasonably judge, from the strength of Nott's army in the field, that few remained in the city ; and on the 10th it was attacked at the Herat-gate, already described as being one of the five entrances, and at the same side as the " Topa Khana," facing the cantonments. The General, prior to his departure, , had taken care to leave two 18-pounders, to be Pio/tn/l in iSS-WV: ill f,'n.nt nf 4Ua PUi/IaI 1* xr VXX.S; tUV \^'3.VIXX 7T rtO OL£\/aSg *&v thought that in the event of the enemy attempting Q 242 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. to storm the city, the inhabitants would rise in re- bellion in the interior, open the gates, and annihi- late the British in the Citadel ; but strict orders were given to the officer commanding, in the event of such an outbreak, to open a destructive fire of grape and shell from these large pieces of ord- nance, and destroy all before them. Guards of artillery were stationed on the ramparts over each gateway, and every available individual, sick or well, if able to fire a shot, was placed- at equal distances round the walls of the town, to expel the enemy from the embrasures. It may easily be imagined what were the feelings of so small a force, especially when it is considered that the majority of that force were weakly and sick ; but it is not in the heart of a Briton, I think,' to scruple to lose his last drop of blood in defending a cause tJiat places the honour of his country at stake. Such was the case at the time under our notice. The enemy fully determined to have possession of the town, but finding that the gates were blockaded inside, they collected from their stores large dubbas (bottles made of skin) of oil and ghee, (clarified butter,) and set it on fire at the foot of the gate, with a view to effect an entrance by burning it down. The entrance to the gates I have already described as being a somewhat circuitous route, and the space would contain about two hun- dred. About this number had assembled to rush bx aa soon as the fire had sufficiently disabled the gate SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 243 for them to force it down. Another party of them proceeded to the government gardens hard by, and cut down the young trees, and made scaling ladders to get over the walls, but were despatched as fast as they attempted it, by the heavy fire kept up frf^in the sentinels placed round the ramparts. The artillery guard immediately over the Herat gate, being unable, from that situation, to level their pieces down into the body assembled there, got a large thirteen-inch shell, cut a fuze short, lighted it and threw it down. It immediately burst in the midst of them, and dreadful indeed was the result. It killed nearly one hundred, for it had full effect, and a great number were wounded: I should say, that in no one instance did ever a shell burst with greater effect. This of course discour- aged them much, and they declined any further attempt upon the town, but decamped, taking with them as many of their wounded aM possible towards the cantonments. And much credit is due for the precaution taken by the guard over the gate in dispersing, with so much advantage, an enemy em- ployed as they were with every probability of suc- cess, in forcing an entrance by firing the gate. Nothing on the part of the native inhabitants in the city appeared to give rise to suspicion as to their becoming hostile, though not a British subject placed the least dependence in them ; for there was _^-. ~i^ ~ ;i — Vi. 4^u„* u^A i-Ur^ ^^^.^-.^ ^«v^A«j scMii;ci^' u uuuub mill iinxx uic ciicui}^ cucciuu ciii entrance they would have joined them, and not 244 SCENEfl IN A SOLDirn's UPB. one in the Citadel would have been left alive. I must here observe that some persons among the native sentinels (who were principally Shah-Shooja's Infantry) acted most basely, and a suspicion arose that they were hostile to us ; the fact of a great number of balls being found on the ramparts and in the trench, on the following morning, fully proved they had fired blank at the enemy and tlirown away the balls. Such facts caused a great deal of con- sternation, and could it only have been proved, the guilty parties would of course have suffered for their treacherv. CHAPTER XIV. Retarn to Candahar; Prospect of fighting for Quarters; A cold night's rest; Our welcome in the city; Appearance of the cantonment; The Herat Gate; Visit to the scene of death; Discovery of two well known faces amongst the dead ; Suspi- cion corroborated ; Dost Mahomed's remarks; Good Friday of 1842; Smart battle; Awful death of three young soldiers; Disgraceful conduct of their murderers; The old shepherd; Situation of Captain Craigie's force; Killat-I-Gilaie; General England; His advance on Candahar; Route intercepted; Cowardice of Native Troops; Forced to retreat; Enemy victo- rious; Severe loss amongst the Europeans; Probable cause of defeat; General England's second and successful advance; Arrival of a strong reinforcement; Abundance of news; More War; Sad news from the Upper Country; Force despatched to the relief of Killat-I-Gilzie; Description of route; Can- dahar attacked; Bravery of young Evans; Another victory; Active preparations for marching; Destruction of Ghrisk; General Nott proceeds up the country; General England down; Candahar is evacuated. The General, considering it useless to hunt after them farther, and looking upon it as a wild-goose chase, at the imminent risk and great discomfort of his few men, directed his force to return; but not before reducing the fort, around which we had taken up our position, to ruin, and after a cold and dreary uiglit^s bivouacking, had but one satis- factory hope, that of returning to Candahar. 246 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, We had not proceeded far, before it came on to rain heavily, and there is scarcely anything'which adds greater misery to troops on the march, than rain, but onward we pushed, and were met by a cossid, who stated that tlie enemy, after having been defeated at the city, had taken possession of our cantonments, and made one into an hospital for their wounded ; therefore we ha^ the comfor- table prospect of having to fight for our barracks, ere we obtained our hope of rest in temporary quarters. The General did not, as was expected, proceed direct to the city ; but pitched camp about four miles south, and under the impression that a night attack would be made, it was ordered that the cattle should remain laden, and all ready for a movement. Night now began to appear, and with it came a keen wintry wind, and occasionally rain ; we, after walking and exercising the best way we could, being fatigued, lay down to make the attempt to sleep ; the small gravel dust, driven by the strong wind, came like a battery of small shot, and the limbs soon became numb with cold, and the morning was most anxiously looked for, which, when it did appear, was, as oftentimes before, most welcome.^ Many a time has this seven days' bivouac been talked over ; but it was no sooner over, than, like all other privations to which a soldier is exposed, it became a siibip.p.t for ipsf nnrl Uo-ht nAmmrao^i'/^Tt . but it has always appeared to me, that the British SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 247 soldier is a child of invention, and is a perfect dread-nought to difficulty and exposure ; enjoying very little comfort. A pipe and tobacco, generally speaking, are the only companions in such places and cases, to many. The extortion practised on the soldier is beyond conception, but may be easily calcu- lated, when judged by the enormous rates charged at Quetta, for comforts, and articles of merchandize ; it was a common price to pay fifty rupees for a pair of imported Wellington boots ; eleven rupees a pound for tobacco, which in the presidency could be pur- chased for as many pence, eight rupe'js a pound for English cheese, and so on; but the soldier, unable to meet such extortion, was necessitated to content himself with his ration. We recommenced the march to the city, and reached there without molestation, about noon. On entering at the Cabool Gate, the natives seemed most heartily to welcome our retuni. Each regi- ment went at once to its old quarters, we to the cantonment, which it appeared on our approach had but just been evacuated. Our barrack rooms, which, by the exertions of the soldiers, had been made somewhat comfortable before, were now rendered almost unlit for use. The enemy had made stables of part of them. The horses had raked up the clay floor, and the rascals had taken down what few window frames and doors there were, which were in only four small staff rooms : and the whole place was one scene of dirt and filth. 248 SCENES IN A SOLDIEK's LIFE. The otbcr buildings had been formed by them into au hospital for their wounded, and here and there were large patches of congealed blood, which left them very uncomfortable ; however, such tri- lies are not to interfere with the campaigner ; he must take things as they come, and right well they did, for in a few hours after our return everything looked almost as if nothing had happened. The next morning I, with several others, visited the scene of destruction occasioned by the attack on the Herat Gate, and an awful sight presented itself ; the space ixn the gateway had been .cleared, and the bodies killed by the explosion of the shell, had been brought away, and heaped up some distance Irom the city walls. I counted fifty-two ; the re- mainder had doubtless been carried off, and but for our arrival these would also ; their appearance was truly dreadful ; some without heads, others without arms, legs, many with their skulls half blown off, and their brains dragging in the remaining hair ] more with their entrails trailing after them, and lying in most agonising positions. The majority of them were fine, tall, noble-looking fellows, and on examining their features, we discovered two of the inhabitants of the city, one a goldsmith, and the other a saddler ; the former had his skull shat- •tered, andthe latter had his left breast and arm blown off. These rebels, being natives of the town, and very influential men too, went fully to corrobo- rate the already well grounded suspicion, that SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 249 had they gained an entrance, the whole city would have joined them, and there would not have been a British subject left to tell the tale. Not only did the fact of discovering the bodies of these two men amongst the enemies killed, prove the probability of the inhabitants of Candahar being connected with the rebels, but many others were discovered, — that of a sentinel on the gate, some time prior to the outbreak, whose duty it was to examine all parcels or cattle laden, entering the city, discovering two camels, apparently laden with boosa (choppcd-straw,) in which were secre- ted, arms, matchlocks, swords, &c. Query, for what purpose? No doubt it will be concluded, with me, that nothing was wanting but a breach, and aiiwouldhave risen, and acted in the manner of those at Cabool in the winter] of 1841, and at Vellore some years ago. Having now once again returned to cantonments, we fully hoped and thought that we might in a great measure rest in peace; for after the very numerous conflicts, and arduous attempts to convince them of our determination to conquer, and the awful manner in which they had suffered from so triflin ga specimen of our force of arms and bra- very ; it might have been expected that they would retire to their homes, and as usual after peace resume their tranquil labors ; but fresh hardships awaited us^ and I cannot better account for it. than bv rem'ud- . , „ . .....,,... ..^. ing my readers of the very numerous tribes, who 250 SCENES IN A SOLDIEK's LIFE. seemed at home incombinin^irapralnstacommon foe ; «o extensive a country, and so numerous a people, are not easily conquered, and ] Joat Mohammed, very sententiously, and somewhat wisely, observed ; "You may takemy possessions, destroy my cities, and kill numbers of my i)eoplc, but conquer you never can, because my tribes are born to hardships, and inured to difficulties; they can live in the hills, can sow and reap in almost barrenness, therefore the mountains are their protection, where you cannot come, and where you could not fiiul meauH to subsist, did you even reach them." How true the remark of the Dost ! None can form a sulliciently strong idea of the intricacies of this mountainous country, whose high and barren hills intercept the direct route through the vast territory of Affgliauistan ; range after range meets the eye of the traveller, and when compelled from service to crown the heights of the lofty eminences bordering the route ; the eye, when cast around, would fall on dell and hill, as far as it can possibly extend, and would often cause the soldier to reflect on the precarious situation in which he was placed, 'mid the gloom of these regions, inha- bited by a race of beings, awaiting every opportunity to oppress and destroy us ; it was in these various regions that the many tribes were detached from each other, so that when a few of them combined, warred, and were defeated, others would come in the same direction, with the same view, to our destruc- tion, and thus w^rc our lives rendered those of the most ei|;ited and miserable. SCENES IW A soldier's LIFR. 251 ion foe ; people, ed, very l;"Yon and kill V'cr can, I inured sow and •untains ne, and did you of the idea of , whose t route ; range 2r, and heights he eye, I, as far iuse the 1 which s, inha- rtunity i^arious d from ibined, 3 in the estruc- of the It was on Good Friday of this year^ that another large botly of the insurgents assembled and hovered about the camp; it was of course necessary to remove them from tlicir position, an'l, as usual, a force, about 4000 men, was despatched to attack them ; the scene of action lay in a valley about three miles from camp, and on our Troops coming within sight, a heavy fire was opened from our artil- lery ; we advanced, we met, and the battle was kept up fiercely for some time ; now would the enemy retire, and now, taking fresh courage, advance on the attacking force ; the weather being in the day excessively hot, and, coupled with the overpowering numbers of the enemy, the battle bore the appear- ance of a losing game ; the commanding ofiicer immediately sent olF to camp for a reinforcement, which was despatched and soon reached the field ; it had scarcely arrived when the fury of the battle was much in our favor, the enemy were falling fast, numbers were seen decamping, and after a smart, and indeed hazardous fight, of several hours, we all returned to camp deliglited, though greatly fatigued, satisfied though oppressed, at the favorable result of our fracas. The Troops returned to the hovels, bearing the name of barracks, and no wherewithal to appease or comfort the wants of those, whose very lives had been risked so rigidly, save the small pittance of a told out ration, which, what with being coarse in material, and worse cooked, was poor indeed ! U2 SCENES IN A SOLr.IER's LIFE. It mu8t again he observed, that the enemy, not choosing: to remain in one body, hovered about, in amall parties, with a view no doubt of reconnoit- ring, and acquainting their main force with our position, and would often in their trails, meet a few of our men, perhaps strolling a mile or two from camp, to some neighbouring tranquil village, or in the fields for recreation. It happened about the firsl of May that for some time previous, pipe-clay, an article much used by soldiers, had become very scarce, and none could be got in camp for money, save a small quantity, which two merchants brought from the Presidency, and for which they charged a rupee-and a half a pound, (three shillings;) this of course was quite inadequate to a soldier's purse, and it was necessary that something should be got as a substitute. It had been discovered, that in the hills about two miles from camp, a great quantity of the article could be got, which, if manufiictured, would do as well as the best, and a deal of it was brought mto camp ; three young men, thinking by going further, better could be got, and tliey could have a walk in the fields, which was now a luxury, unfor- tunately bringing to bear the old adage, "go far- ther and speed worse," determined on trying, and armed themselves with bayonets fastened to the end of sticks, but had not proceeded more than a mile and a half, when they were attacked bv eight of the insurgents, who fired their matchlocks at them, and shot one ; they then flew at them, and the struggle SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 25d ^my, not ibout, in iconnoit- vith our )et a few wo from ?c, or in the first clay, an ne very money, brought iarj[^e(i a this of rse, and jot as a ihc hills y of the , would brought Y going have a , unfor- go far- ig, and ihe end lileand of the m, and niggle WAS very great ; the two remaining men killed two of their opponents, when the other six succeeded in disarming the two poor fellows, who by this time were quite overpowered, and one who had received a severe wound, fainted from loss of blood ; these unfeeling wretches tied the two soldiers together, and dragged them some distance, and kindled a fire, round which they sat for some time, smoking and amusing themselves by stabbing the two bound, miserable mortals, miable to defend themselves. They, not satisfied with piercing them with their swords, thinking that insufficient torture for them, began to burn them with fire-sticks, and after keeping them in excruciating torture for some time^ the men begging to be put to death out of their agony, were, according to their wish, killed, their heads were carried off as a prize, and their three bodies left, as food for the beasts and birds. It, how- ever, fortunately happened, if fortunate it may be called, that an old man, a tranquil shepherd, was watching his flock hard by, and witnessed the whole proceeding. At the cantonments, when the roll was called in the evening, the three men of course were missed, next morning the same, and until the afternoon of the second day, all kinds of surmises were afloat, but none knew the right one ; several parties of men armed themselves, and went out some distance, in hopes of finding their comrades, but returned unsuccessful, till suddenly the old shepherd appeared with the three bodies tied 254 SCENES IN A SOLDIEK's LIFE. on a bullock, carrying them to the camp, and related the whole affair. There were several versions of the tale told, but I managed to get the old man in the bazaar, and through the medhim of the Chowdry (a petty magistrate,) who was an interpreter, I suc- ceeded in getting the exact detail, which I give as above ; the heads of the three men would of course be a great prize to their chief, and would entitle the men to a large reward, though they lost two of their number ; the old man stated that the three young soldiers fought most desperately ; ho could not s^y which of them killed the Afiglians. On exa- mining the bodies they were found to be awiully hacked and cut in several places ; the whole were quite young, and had not joined their regiment more than three years, this was another warning to the men not to venture too far from camp, which was contrary to orders. Let the soldier strictly obey orders, and he will be much safer; the old man was rewarded for his trouble, and would no doubt have brought in the bodies much sooner, but was afraid he would be detained as being connected with the massacre. I regret very much to say that this was not the only instance of these acts of desr perate cruelty, and but for such outrages the coun- try in our vicinity was now in a great measure tranquil, but this tranquillity will be easily account- ed for, by concluding that the Affghans had gone to some other of our outposts to trv if no better luck attended them, than contending with the deter- SCENES IN A SOLDIEB'S LIFE. 256 id related )ns of the m in the ^howdry, er, I suc- I give as of course sntitletlie t two of ho three hf could On exa- ! awfully ole were regiment warning p, which ;tly obey old man 10 doubt but was mnected say that J of desr le coun- measure iccount- ad gone ;ter luck J deter- mined spirit of our gallant Nott. The General had received secret communication from Captain Crai- gie, and Major Leech, who still held possession of Kelat-I-Gilzie, stating that provisions were falling short ; that the enemy had surrounded the fort, and it would be impossible to hold out much longer. With a view to explain the situation of this portion of our army, which consisted only of a regiment, (one of Shah Shooja's,) under command of Captain Craigie, a few Sepoys, and some other Native Artillery in charge of Lieut. Cormick, and the whole under the Political Superintendence of Major Leech, of the Bombay Engineers ; it will be as well to describe the nature and position of this fort or stronghold, which was indeed worthy of the name, and will be recorded as one of the greatest moment. Killat-I-Gjlzie is situated on the top of a high hill, in the centre of the only main road from Candahar to Cabool ; the summit formed an oblong of about two hundred yards ; near the centre there was a large mound of chalk, from which issued a most beautiful fountain of water,- the road led in a serpentine direction from the foot to the height, which was upwards of 2800 feet above the level ; this oblong space was walled round, and ren- dered a complete fortification ; the soil that was dug from the interior was applied to building barracks magazines,and storehouses; these were tolerably well suDDlied. and the little for^e Qocnni^rl u -n^r^ia^^*:^^ that part of the country from all invaders. This 256 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. post was formed by Lord Keane's army, and it may- be said was a complete Alexandrian, for one of greater power commanding so much space to so great an advantage could not possibly exist ; it was in this fort that the enemy, finding it impossible to get them out by storming, which they had tried several times, determined to besiege it, and know- ing well that their provisions could not last much longer, anticipated a complete triumph. This was of course coupled with cutting ojDf all correspondence and supplies. Wheat, barley, and water, were the principal stores in the fort, the latter being the grand and main thing. The little oppressed band remained for some months unable to procure any- thing else, except on a few casual occasions, when the enemy would retire a short distance, and a flock of sheep would be passing, a detachment would venture out under the cover of the artil- lery, and capture a few, which was a luxury indeed. It was on one or two of these favorable opportunities that the Commanding Officer mana- ged to send a couriei* with despatches, to General Nott, at a great risk, and reward in case of safe delivery, and from the extreme case of the latter communication, the General determined on sending a Brigade to release the force, and destroy the stronghold, and directed the whole to return to join him at Candahar, but owing to the unsettled state of the weather, the non-arrival of the correspon- dence from the authorities, the General thought it SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. 257 I it may one of e to so ; it was isible to d tried know- t much lis was •ndence ere the ng the 1 band e any- , when and a jhment ! artil- 1 usury rorable muna- reneral of safe ! latter ending [>y the to join 1 state espon- ight it better to await the arrival of Major General Sir R. England, who was daily expected to cross the Kojuk Heights, from Quetta, with a reinforce- ment for the Upper Provinces, and a convoy of stores, cattle and treasure. There being still no mail, we were quite in the dark as to when his movement, towards Candahar, would ' be made. At length a courier arrived with news for Nott, and reporting the departure of General England early in February, from Quetta, for Can- dahar, with a large convoy of cattle, &c., and a force consisting of eight guns, three regiments of Light Cavahy, II. M.'s 41st Regiment, 21st Regi- ment Native Infantry, and eight light companies of different corps, forming a Light Battalion; the greater portion of these troops, by the bye, were recalled when en route to the provinces, which I mentioned as having left Quetta in 1841 for that purpose. It appeared that on their reaching the second days' stage, a strong body of the enemy, who had long held possession of the passes and main road, intercepted their route. Mahomed Shereave, who had been in our employ, had joined the rebels and headed a strong force against us ; and held possession of the Kojuk Heights, cutting off all supplies and correspondence from both Candahar and Quetta. On the approach of General England, he formed for an attack. The General directed the baggage to collect, and the 4ist Ileglment, with a Native Corps, rvcre B 258 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. ordered to advance up a hill which was held by Mahomed's force. The light company of the 41 st was commanded by Captain May and Lieutenant Evans ; the line advanced a short distance, when the Sepoys began to lag, and all but refused to advance; spite of the entreaties of their European officers, they still hung back. The portion of the line formed by Europeans was considerably in front of the others, and were in action long before the rest. Mahomed having possession of all the cover, took advantage of their approach, and several of the 41st were cut up. The Captain of the light company was killed, and the command fell on Lieut. E-^ans, a gallant young officer. He cheered on his men, and, I regret to say, the majority of the light company of that Regiment fell ; a finer set of fel- lows could not have been, and their loss was much deplored. The success of the affi-ay terminated in the favor of Mahomed. General England was necessitated to effect a retreat with a severe loss, but I believe nothing could be more praiseworthy than the conduct of the Europeans, and the greater portion of the Natives, on this occasion. The 21st Native Infantry were much to blame, for it was believed that, had they advanced to the charge with the 41st, victory was certain. The cause of this catastrophe I never learned, further than the General was proceeding under the guidance of the Political Agent at Quetta, a Lieutenant Hammersly, whose youth was much ae^ainsf him t* i^ 4K« ^««^*: c SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. 259 the Indian Government to place young men (who douhtless are exceedingly clever in a scholastic view,) in charge of the political powers of certain portions of the country, whose duties I have already detailed, and whose orders were always to be con- sidered peremptory. Now, when we consider the fact of an experienced General, like England, Nott, or Pollock, commanding a large army, and necessi- tated to act under the directions of a mere boy, whose negotiations with chiefs are likely to have been misled, owing to their taking advantage of his youth or consequent want of practical knowledge, the chances are ten to one against their success. Sir T. Wilshire would not listen to them, nor did Nott. The force generally regretted the result, lest it should be said, or even surmised, that anything was wanted to establish their valour. They acted nobly, and I was told by Lieutenant Evans that the affair w as most unfortunate ; that the General had been assured by Lieutenant Ilammersly that the route was secure, and there was no danger of being intercepted. He told me that the conduct of the men, except the 21st Natives, was all that Britain could wish ; and I must confess that when- ever I saw the 41st engaged, they always behaved most nobly and courageously. It was unfortunate, because it w^as the Jrst engagement Sir Richard had had an opportunity of commanding in the coun- try, but he was known to be a gallant officer from his earliest career. News was still a stranger to 260 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. US : correspondence was cut oflf in every direction ; we were a completely ignorant mob of beings. However, after a short time a courier arrived with the news to the General, that England was to make a second attempt to advance on the 1st March ;— and Nott, under the impression that the enemy had got possession of the Kojuk Heights, despatch- ed a brigade of two Regiments and four guns, to the pass, in order to act in conjunction with General England, who was on the other side, and thus hem in the enemy, and at once capture him. On their arrival, however, they found that the foe had disappeared, and the whole returned to Can- dahar without even the risk of placing a spot on British fame. I would speak much more on this subject, but my incompetency to judge the acts of fighting Generals further than what I see, bespeaks I should not express my opinion ; but this I must say, if General England in this case was unfortu- nate, it was not for want of courage. When all were together at Candahar, we mustered a force of 9,000 to 10,000 men, which, under such command, were able to stand against almost any force the Afghans could raise. Amongst the host of arrivals with General England's force, were several camels laden with boxes of letters, newspapers, &c., being the gatherings of upwards of four months' European mails, which left us in possession of abundance of news. The press had been hard hi work about us cw what had becoiui; of us. One pa- 4% fV 9\ t^^Tk ^ It,.-.-. .^rft*SS<l**^; SCENES IN Jl soldier's LIFE. 261 iirection ; f beings, ived with i to make March ; — lemy had lespatch- tir guns, ion with side, and turc him. t the foe I to Can- . spot on e on this le acts of bespeaks i I must unfortu- i all were '9,000 to id, were iffghans als with els laden ;ing the European iance of bout us, jiie pa- per issued an advertisement, — *' Lost, stolen, or strayed, the 40th Regiment," &c. Amongst other parts of the news came the accounts of the disas- trous doings at Cabool, Ghuznee, &c., developing all the treachery of the insolent Aftghans, and the determination of the government not to , mit British honor to be trampled on so indignantly without being rejected. Orders were received to scour the country from right to left, and it had been decided on sending a strong army into the country to revenge the insults practised on us. A strong division was assembled at Peshawur, at the mouth of the Khiva, under Major General Pol- lock, who was prevented from immediate advance towards Jellalabad by the inclemency of the weather. Orders were also received by Nott to move towards Ghuznee. A large army was forming at Feroze- pore, called an Army of Reserve, under the com- mand of the Governor General Lord Ellenborough. The mails brought so much news that we were all on the tip-toe «;f information, and many indeed were the different versions of the stories. Letters from public and private parties all tended to add — and I must here remark the ecstasy that is felt at receiving a line from dear friends must only be felt to know; for, true, indeed, it may be said, that " Absence makes the heart grow fonder.'' The press of matter now will, I fear, nrevp.nt mv p.ntp.rino' ton frp.p.lv into the spntiment of feelings — as this part of the narrative, up to the 1 1 262 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. end, will be one series of successive trials, that tiiey will alone, 1 feel persuaded, speak for them- selves. I will endeavour to point out the various places as we come to them, as clearly as possible, biH not so lengthy a description as I could wish, did space permit. , The first thing the General considered necessary was the relief of the oppressed force at Killat- I-Gilzie, of which I spoke in a preceding chapter. Accordingly, on the 18th May, 1842, a force, con- sisting of the 40th, the 2nd Native Infantry, and a brigade of Artillery, were despatched under the command of Colonel Wymer, to the assistance and relief of Captain Craigie and Major Leech. The road from Candahar to Killat-I-Gilzic, which is nine days' march, was somewhat difficult, owing to the many ascents and descents met with. The moun- tains on either side are particularly lofty— contain beautiful springs watering the valleys, which were plentifully cultivated. As wc pas, ad through these beautiful dales, filled with grain just ripe- ning, and merely awaiting the hand of the industrious reaper to collect a rich crop, we were obliged to destroy hunareds of acres in pitching camp and grazing cattle : and thousands of acres remained this year ungathered, owing to the natives, who inhabited the hills, having deserted them and joined the mob ; our cattle, therefore, fed most sumptuously on the neglected harvest of the foolish Alfghan VillaJO-PTS. Tn flirnii «,. f«»- x. c .— _ — ,„ ,.ii»vv V4 iuui piiiio oi our route. SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. 263 Is, that ►r t hem- various 'ossible, Id wish, cessai/ Killat- bapter. ;e, con- , and a ler the ice and iie road is nine to the moun- iontain Ii were irough t ripe- >f the 3 were ^camp mined , who joined lously QTghan route. where the springs from the mountains were hidden from our view, the wells dug proved brackish, and tended greatly to discomfort us. On the 28th of the month we reached the desired spot, and glad they were to see our approach, and happy at the sight of friends once more ; immediate prepara- tions were commenced for evacuating the place; and prepare to brave the field again with an aux- iliary on whom they could depend. It appeared that, five days before our arrival, the enemy, who had succeeded for so long a time in keeping off supplies, and had rendered them in consequence most wretched, and no doubt aware of our approach, made a general attack on the fort, making several attempts to storm it, but were ably kept off". On the east side of the hill it appears they made a noble one, having got scaling lad- ders, &c., up to the wall, but were not so fortunate as they might have expected : the small band in possession, seeing their drift, waited an opportunity of attacking them when they were on the side of the mountains, and succeeded so far that the enemy retired, leaving a great number on the hill side, dead; I carefully examined the plan of defence, which reflected the greatest credit on all parties. I have already given a description of the command- ing position of Killat-I-Gilzie, and when we consi- der the difficulties this small force had undergone in keeping off the enemy, and holding out for so many months, it is indeed one which must crown Captain 264 SCENES IN A soldier's tIFE. Craigicwithfamc; asalsoMajorLeech. Afterallthat was considered useful had been taken out tl.e build- ings, the. ,...» ilx^trojcd, and the force returned brigade he folks at Candahar were not permitted to be Idle; for the enemy, which had assembled under Suftur Jung, made H» .appearance, under the impression that General Nott had again left the city bare of troops, and that this time they would most certainly effect their purpose. They emerged from the narrow pass described as being near the front of the cantonments, several thousands in num- ber, when the General directed a brigade to move out and attack them. n,e 41st, with some other troops (natives), advanced to meet them ; .^nd Suf- tur, finding that the Fort was not so empty as he expected was forced into the fight ; the General commanded, m person, and throwing skirmishers out-commanded by young Evans, who performed his duty most nobly-the General formed up and chased them, and after a smart affray, forced them decamp with a great loss. 1 very much regret- ted having been absent from so gallant an affair, being with Wymer's Brigade ; 1 read the des- patch of the General to Government on the subject, and he spoke in the highest possible terms of tiie conduct of the Troops, particularly the 41st Regiment, and Lieutenant Evans, who never permitted an opportunity to pass where ne saw the least chance of P-ainin<r hnnn,. *i,„ -ii„. ♦^. SCENHIS IN ▲ ROLDIBR'B LIFB. 265 Regiment were a fine body of men, and when it is remembered the extensive marching they had undergone, for, I believe, they marched, whilst in India, more than any other corps ; they kept up their discipline and appearance remarkably well. After this the vicinity of Candahar became tolerably quiet, and early in June, Suftur Jung, doubtless tired of the life he had been leading, fcurrcndcrcd to the General, as a prisoner, and was accepted, to the great disappointment of the Force at large, who fully expected he would have been hanged as a traitor, after such crimes as he had committed. Soon after this, orders were received from Lord Ellenborough, to evacuate Caudahar, and retire to Ilindostan ; this was indeed glad tidings, such as had not been heard for years ; and my readers may imagine the effect of such on the minds of those wlio had been so long subjected to the hardships of the field — the joy we felt at the prospect of a return to a tranquil spot; active preparations were at once commenced for our departure ; all heavy stores, for which carriage could not be procured, were destroyed ; and the General, with a view to prevent the possibility of the inhabitants of Canda- har irom acting upon us as they did at Cabool, ordered every gun and implement of war in Canda- har, likely to be of the least use in such a case, to ! e destroyed, leaving them armless and harmless ; there were about thirty pieces of Persian manufactured uruiiance, coiisistirig oi nine ana twcive poiiiiUcrs, 266 with SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. f immense quantity of amal! arms. Manv „. our own pieces, suoii as belonged to men "^de- ceased, or surplus armoury, wore all destroyed. The Commissariat was collecting all the cattle jpos- sible, purchasing at any price, camels, mules, bullocks, asses, or any beast calculated to carry at all, in order to prevent the destruction of Govern- ment property as much as possible. Carriage was very limited, and the quantity allowed to indivi- dual, was very small; one camel only to be allowed fi)r ten men, and each camel's load not to exceed three , hundred pounds ; therefore, the extent of the soldier's comfort was wrapped up in a pigmy packet of thirty pounds weight, including his bed ; but this had been the constant practice", and therefore was no deeper felt now than before. One very gross act existed, that the soldier, who was undergoing all the hardships for his country, had to pay out of his small pittance, for the carria^^e of this twenty-eight or thirty lbs., at the rate of tvvo or three shillings a month.* The Commissariat were directed to carry with them forty days' supply. It was arranged that General England should proceed down the Passes towards Sukkur, and on his way, collect all the Troops stationed in any part of The soldiers lost during four years in the field, owing to wear and tear-having to pay extortionate prices for necessaries, carriage, &c.,-not less th»n 200 or 300 rapes each-and the Government compensation was about 80 or 100, setting aside tae hardships and privations. BOKNRS IN L SOLDIER'a LIFK. 267 Sdnde and Beeloochistan, whilst General Nott proceeded towards Ohuznec, in favor of our com- rades, who were in " durance vile." Prince Timor Shah, not willing to remain in the city without the protection of British Troops, was placed under the charge of General England, to proceed to Sukkur ; all having been satisfactorily arranged, Candahar was evacuated by the British on the 5th of August, 1842, and formed in camp close to its walls, with positive directions from the General, that neither soldier nor follower was, under any pretence what- ever, to re-enter the city. At Candahar, the Troops passed one of the severest winters known in Affghanistan j the ther- mometer for some time being much below freezing point. The Monsoon does not visit Affghanistan, although we had some very rainy weather; on more than one occasion, it prevented a move- ment against the enemy. The weather in June, was the hottest I had ever felt it, the thermometer standing as high as 148°. During this sojourn in camp, we were awaiting a small force, who had been despatched to Ghrisk, a stronghold affording great security for the enemy, and Nott determined on its destruction, ere he left it. In short, his work was intended to be one of destruction generally, and he was evidently determined to lose no chance of revenging the foul treachery of the massacre at Cabool. The Troops ever since, had been kept ili CUilliilUiil VJAV;iLCiUClit, auu C^\pua\;vi tu \^7\.ij axiiu 268 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. of danger and hardship. The sick of all the Regi- ments, unable to proceed with Nott's Army of Reserve, were attached to General England's division downwards. The party from Ghrisk returned : the General issued most rigid orders on the subject of plundering. He stated, that as we were abou. to march through an enemy's country, he trusted every man would feel he was a Briton, and that none would attempt to violate the law by plun- dering; and he declared most positively, that any one, either soldier or follower, whom he dis- c^overed so offending, he would surely hang, and that nothing should prevent his order being carried mto execution. CHAPTER XV. irarch towards Ghuznee; Strong force; Extensive supplies re(iuired; Difficult to procure; Major Leech, an excellent caterer; So far pretty quiet; Skirmish on the 28th August; Bravery of Lieutenant Chamberlain; Severe affray with Srd Light Cavalry; Loss of Captain Keoves, and Quarter Master Berry; Indignation of the General; Injudicious conduct; Advice to young Officers; Awful example; Treparations for Battle; Destruction of a fortress; Three prisoners taken March to Govvinc; The enemy our constant companion Shooms-ood-Scen; Khan, the Commander; Arrival at Gowine The battle; Bud ground; Captain White's JJght Batlalicn Anderson's and Blood's Artillery ; Narrow escape; Unpleasant discovery; 'Iho heat of battle; The charge; The return; The enemy proceed to Ghuznee; March across the Plain of a Thousand Forts; The Ilazaras, a friendly tribe; Provisions no longer procurable; Discovery of grain and forage; Doings atCftbooI; Treachery at Ghuznee; Situation of Colonel Pal- mer's Br'j^adc; Misery experienced; Treaty signed and broken; Puhner tortured; Officers taken prisoners; Their treatment; Awful situation; Nott advances; 5th of Septem- ber; Attack on Ghuznee; Nob's conduct of the IGth Native Infantry; Storming of Balloon Hill; Success; Unwelcome visi- tor in Gamp; Necesiiary retreat; Preparations for storming the Po?tress; Night before the battle; Doings in the dark ; Morning of the 0th September; Glorious sight; Ghuznee ours. On the 7th of August, we re-commenced our march General Nott proceeded to Abdool Azeez, only six miles ; merely to put all things in order of march. 270 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. On our arrivaJ, we found ourselves deserted by a great number of camel attendants, who, being of the opinion that fighting was the object in view chose rather to remain at Candahar; however,' others were engaged ; although characters of a suspicious nature, we were compelled to employ them, and we experienced great trouble for several days. We marched on in peace, except on one occa-'v a grazing party out with cattle were attt.kcd, and most barbarously murdered, and were brought in, many of them headless; on the road to Killat-I-G ilzie, which we had again to pass, many of the valleys of ripened grain, which I stated to be rd for cutting, had been reap- ed by the natives, after the affair with Craigie, and it left our route very clear. There was a great annoyance experienced by the loss of camels, and consequently their loads; the attendants we had been forced to hire, being Affghans, used to lead the cattle off the line, and decamp with them in the dark, as the system of moving along is by tying the nose-rope of the camel, to the tail of a leader, and they move along as far as you like thus to attach them, having an attendant to the first one ; whenever they are detached, they can be led in any direction, and, on a dark night, and spite of all flanking parties, many lines may be formed,— and it because almost an every day occur- rence, that cattle were thus stolen. The force used to march early, perhaps at one or two, A. M. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 271 and if the moon assisted us, even earlier. Tliere was a great scarcity of wood, it being indispensable for cooking, and required an enormous quantity, to supply daily upwards of 20,000 persons, and any thing we could get, was purchased ; if the villagers whom we passed, would cut down trees, a great price was given for them ; if they refused to assist us, why, of course, we did not scruple to assist ourselves, and sooner than go without a meal, we were obliged to unroof their huts, and burn the beams ; there was a root or brushwoof^ which grows in great quantities, in and near the camp, but not sufficient for so great a force. Major Leech, who I mentioned as the Political Functionary at Killat-I-Gilzie, having been in this country for many years, and appeared to be well known by all the natives in the places we came to, was most indefatigable in his exertions to collect supplies. The great number of cattle attached to so extensive a force must necessarily require a great supply of forage, and I being personally attached to the Commissariat Department at this period, was in the habit of accompanying the Major, whose knowledge of the Afighan customs, was very extensive, and his arrangements with them very praiseworthy ; we would proceed on a short distance in advance, and the natives for several days' march, seemed to revere him, and acquiesce in his wishes at once ; he would form a market, see them paid for their goods, and thus 272 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. ensured us supplies we should otherwise have been veiy much short of; and in fact, so popular was the name of Leech amongst the natives that a * mere mention of it was sufficient to soon bring a quick supply in the market. Our further progress, however, bore a different aspect, for as we came to towns, forts, villages, we found them deserted in a great measure, and on our nearer approach towards Ghuznee, entirely so ; on the 27th we reached Mokur, and nothing of importance occurred up to this time, save a few straggling shots. They, however, now began to make their appearance in small bodies, and on our arrival here we discovered the enemy had but just quitted it, and on our approach had gone into the hills. Our camp was pitched under a large moun- tain, which to a great extent overhung the tents, and the enemy, who were on the other side, ventured to fire their matchlocks, though without damage, although balls came into a tent I happened to be in amongst the men, two or three followers, who went up the mountain, were cut up. One of the enemy purposely straying into the camp, began a series of enquiries of some sepoys, as to the strength of our force, who, seeing his drift, soon settled Mm, in order that he raight not return with the informa- tion he had received. Mokur is one of the most beautiful and salubrious climates I was ever in • it abounds with verdure, and every kind of fertility • the thermometer never exceeded 80% and the water SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 273 excellent ; it was recommended on the early occupa- tion of Affghanistan, as t first rate station for Europeans; fruits and vegetables were in abundance, and in siiort, bui for the greui, lonesomeness of the situation I must say I should have liked to reside there. The force w^as ordered to march at four, A. M.; during the route on the 24th, about five miles from our destined encampment, some three or four hundred of the enemy were seen to hie from the adjacent hills, with which we were surrounded^ and shewing a bold front began to wave their swords in bravado. The General directed three troops of the 3rd Light Cavalry, and two Resillahs (troops) of Christie's Horse, to go and dislodge them. Tuo small party galloped off, ])ut on reaching them, within about four hundred yards, a deep ravine made its appearance, which before had not been seen; this the enemy well knew would be an obstruction, and iiaJ taken up a position on the other side; our gallant band, nothing daunted, soon got over, and most maurdly charged them : they, finding themselves likely to be over- powered, as usual made off, except about eighty, whom our cavalry cut up. We lost two men, and several wounded, amongst whom was an unex- ception?»^^v brave officer, Lieut. Chamberlain, who eommvAdi i Christie's Horse, whose intrepid con- duct on ; liiS; as well as on every other occasion, has been most honorably distinguished ; this was the third time be had been wounded. Dr. Colquhoun, who s 274 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. accompanied the detachment, evinced great skill and bravery, and most certainly did honor to his profession, as a soldier j ho fortunately escaped unhurt. The country we vi^ere marching through was ono of the most mountainous, surrounded in every direction by defdes, and occupied in many in- stances by a treacherous foe ; it was impossible to move but in imminent certainty of a sudden attack, either from some overwhelming position irap^>ssible to oppose, or else by some undue mean? of treachery ■ to us the country was, speak- ing gene-ally, unknown, and left us tlierefore in a most pitiful position. On our arrival in camp this day, a body of Affghans were seen to emerge from a defde in front of the camp, and (he greater portion of our cavalry, commanded by Captain Reeves, who with other officers made off to attack them, being piqued with the recollection of the Cabool affair J but on their reaching near, it was discovered that the body in question was merely a decoy, and that their main force was encamped behind the hill, from whence they were seen to come • some nine hundred of them rushed out, and but for the greatest dexterity on the part of our few in making a retreat, muse have inevitably been cut up to a man. The Affghans suffered no loss^ and we lost twenty-five men, amongst whom was Captain Reeves, and Quarter Master Berry ; we had several, both men and horse, wounded, including Lieutenants Ravenscroft and Mackenzie. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 275 This sad mishap I regret to say was an entirely misled alfiiir, and was totally miknown to the General, who expressed his utmost displeasure at such a proceeding. It was fortunate indeed tl t more of our officers were not cut up ; for several headstrong young fellows, who were big with glory, and snapped at every little chance they could get of having what they called a cut at them, little considering what a risk they ran of losing their liv( s, and forgetting that too much neglected thing, the probability of depriving their country of their seiTice, entrusted as they are with commissions, and so soon to forget the use they are required to make of them. Let this be a word of advice to all young officers, not to be too rash, or to do other than their precise duty, nor even to expose them- selves unnecessarily to danger, by too much volun- tary zeal. Let them bear in mind that the for- mer })laces their men without a leader, depriving often the General of an able member on whom he can rely in time of need, but who i". consequence of 'indue, uncalled-for bravery, is lost to him ; and oi'tlmes deprives his country of a brave and most noble soldier, who has the most right to his life, if it is necessary to give it up ; forbear and think, and never expose yourselves when you are not required. Several officers who accompanied this party learned a dear lesson, amongst whom were Lieut. Evans, 41st, Meason and others. Oh! our feelings were rack- ed w hen on returning to camp, and looking back on 276 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. the enemy, we were obliged to witness the bar- barous rascals cutting the bodies of poor Reeves and Berry into pieces. Touched with displeasure, as the General was, he could not quietly put up with this loss ; he directed a division of six Regiments, and sixteen guns, to move on, and attack them ; he led the van, and advanced for about three miles. The enemy, how- ever, seemed unwilling to make a similar effort on this force, and made off into the mountains, and the General well knew, it was useless to follow them, because, as 1 before explained, the intricacies of the country being entirely uuknown to us, and the enemy knowing all the secret paths, with horses like mountain gor.is, enabled them to lead us a sorry life ; the main satisfaction we could get was to destroy their forts and dwellings. The force was ordered to return to camp; the vicinity of our route was intercepted with several forts ; on passing one several shots were lired at us, and it proved to contain a considerable number of the rebel foe, who, not permitting us to move unmolested, opened a lire from the battlements. The General ordered a storming party of the 40th and 41st, and directed a line-pounder to be taken to another gate, in order to effect a second entrance. This was soon done, and a severe scuffle took place ; it contained several women and children, who were allowed to depart unhurt ; bat the men were destroyed, the fort was set on fire, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 277 and and and and we returned to camp, after a three and a half hours fatiguing job : we brought in the fragments of the bodies of Reeves and Berry, and buried them in front of the camp ; the 40th had four wounded, and the 41st one. The force was ordered to march at six, A. M., though only two miles, and merely to enable us t. change our position of camp, from a line, to a square, the last ground not admitting of it, and it being a better protection from the dangerous enemy we had to contend with, and also, that a camp like ours in line, was so long, and was left in its rear, almost unprotected by even the guards and piquets, whereas, in square, wc had four faces, and our baggage, hospital, and followers, in the centre. On our arrival at the new ground, the cooking places of the enemy had got a fire in them, and they were seen in large numbers on the hills ; we, however, remained pretty quiet here, and were ordered to move at four, A. M. : three prisoners were taken, and shots were frequently exchanged during the night, by the sentinels. One of the prisoners was despatched with a letter to the com- mander of the hostile party, and was directed to return with an answer, by twelve o'clock, or the other two would be sacrificed. We commenced our march this morning, the 30th, for Gowine, and the enemy accompanied us, keep- ing up in fine style, about three miles to our right. We reached our ground without molestation, and 1 278 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. pitched camp; the enemy haUed also; some sutttoned themselves hi forts, in the vicinity of our camp; we could distinctly hear their dnims ; and a great por- tion of them encamped on the hills, Shooms-ood- Dien Khan, cousin of Mahomed Akbar,who murdered M^Naughten, comn^anded fhe Force, and mustered about 16,000 men, horse and foot. The ground at Gowine was ill-calculated for a battle-'lield ; for Shooms-ood-Dien seemed inclined to give us a little fair play, or rather a foul chance at him thig time-but ground to a British Force is not the object,--the enemy, and the word, is all, and the rest will soon tell for itself. Nott ordered the troops to be in readiness, to move into action at three, P. M. in two brigades ; the first to move to the right and front, and the second to move in like manner to the left, thereby enabling us to surround the forts as we went along, and settle them, ere we approach- ed the main body. The first brigade consisted of H. M. 40th, the 16th and 38th Bengal N. I., two 18-pounders, four 12-pounders, and six 6-pounders, under the command of the General. The 2nd Brigade consisted of H. M. 41st, two Regiments of Native Infantry, and an equal proportion >f Artil- lery ; in addition to this, the light companies of the corps formed a Us:ht Battalion, under the com- mand of Captain White, 40th. Captain WhHe, and his Light Battalion were exemplary during tiie campaign, and performed some most brilliant and arduous duties. BCENKS IN A SOLDIRR'S LIFE. 279 uutoned tnip; we eat por- mh-ood- urdered luatered ound at sld ; for ^e us a ilm tbig not the the rest oops to ,P.AI., ht and mer to ic forts >roach- stcd of [., two mders, e 2nd 3nts of Artil- of the com- VhHe, ig tiie t ond T!ie Brigades took np fine positions in a val- ley, unseen by the enemy, until all was prepar- ed for immediate action; when both Brigades suddenly made their appearance, about three hun- dred and fifty yards from their principal fort, and about one thousand eight hundred yards from the main dy. Detached parties of them were seen to our right; but a small hill which obstructed our view, left us unable to ascertain their strength on it : a portion of the Light Brigade were detach- ed to take the 1...., and a severe conflict took place, which ended in our getting: possession. A severe fire was commenced on the forts from the heavy battery, under Captain Blood, and a breach was effected on the large forts. Anderson's guns made fine play on the main body in front, and we were soon answered by a dreadful volley of Artillery from them, which at once astonished us, for although we had heard of their having guns, we did not before believe it. They commenced a severe practice on us, and seemed to understand the use of them, to a greater extent than we anticipated. A company of Infantry was sent to cover each of our heavy guns, and the enemy made them occasionally a mark, and succeeded in wounding several. On one occasion, as I was standing somewhat carelessly in the ranks, a 6-pounder passed between my legs, and took the feet off a native follower in rear ; the direction of the enemy was turned on our lines, but seemed IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-^) '^ 1.0 I.I ■^ 1^ 12.2 1.25 11.4 2.0 m 1.6 7] vl W "-c^i >^ r # "■^ '^r Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580 (716) 872-4503 v (V \\ %" ^^' ^ 280 SCENES IN A SOLDIEK'S LIFE. not to guess, as well as us, the mode of good aiming. The General directed our best shots, to aim for disabling their guns, which was done m two instances. The enemy now began to advance, their Artillery men proved themselves excellent shots, and were doubtless, some of those who deserted from us at Candahar. I had on several occasions been exposed to the fire of musketry, but never before to artillery, which is not the most pleasant situation to be in, nor do I suppose I shall be much envied. As we advanced, skirmishers were thrown out, to cover the two bri- gades, ^ho were now formed into one line ; the enemy likewise sent out skirmishers, and the two lines kept up a heavy fire, and numbers of both sides fell. After advancing for a considerable time the General called them in, which was no sooner done, than he gave the word, Charge I and a more awful sight scarce ever met my eyes. The enemy, I fancy, must not have expected it, or they were ill prepared for it ; they made an attempt to retire, but not before we had cut up immense num- bers. As we advanced it was difficult to keep the line, the dead and dying and wounded being strewed over our path ; we were suddenly halted, a volley fired, and re-charged again; the General directed the cavalry to follow them, and as it was now growing dark, we retraced our steps back towards camp, leaving a Regiment to bring in the captured guns, and collect our dead and wounded. The gallantry of SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 281 the whole force on this day was all that could be wished for ; the conduct of the Light Companies of the 40th, 4l8t, and 16th, in th6 hill to the right, was really great indeed ; the whole returned, doubtless, greatly fatigued, but crowned with a glorious victory. Shooms-ood-Dien made oflF, I dare say, with a flea in his ear. On returning, I saw, and took from the bodies of the enemy, lying dead, great portions of our ammunition ; the rascals had actually been shooting at us with our own shot, evidently that taken from Ghuznee : the loss of the enemy was very great, but owing to their old sys- tem of carrying off their dead, we could not ascer- tain the precise number ; ours was comparatively very small. We were ordered to halt the next day at our present encampment. The halt day was oc- cupied in replenishing our stores with the grain, &c., from the captured forts, and very acceptable it was, for Major Leech's power was gone ; his voice no longer recognised by the villagers, and our only chance now was to do tho best we could. This part of Affghanistan was in a high state of cultivation, and was studded with small forts, which were built very compactly, but were nearly all deserted, the inhabitants having gone to join the force towards Ghuznee. The enemy, no doubt tired from the severity of the Gowine aflfray, left us to rest in quietude this day, and glad enough all parties were. 282 SCENES IX ^A SOLDIEU's LIFE. We had no alann, save their beiii< ^ . , 'J ''^»v« ineir oeiug seen to move off m the afternoon, which of course caused us to be under arni^. The en-agement of the 30th was tJie most severe I had up to this time ever seen, and most certainly it did credit to our men. Ihe (general issued orders, returning his thanks for the energy and bravery evinced by every man and expressed his opinion that he should very likely ere long have an opportunity of again witnessing their conduct in battle. The force was ordered to proceed to " Chupper Khana." On our march we saw several small bodies of the scattered foe mov- ing off, and we discovered the track of two guna hanng gone towards the hills, which corroborated the fact that they had yet more witli them. The natives of this part of the country are Ha- rarahs, a tribe peculiar in their habits ; they are a fine, robust, noble looking people ; the countenance, flat and round, after that of the Mogul Tartar or Chinese ; they follow the form of worship of the I'ersiaas, and do not scruple to eat with another race ; but they will not drink out of the same ves- sel with you ; they are a people of great muscular power, and live principally by farming, and proved themselves to be great friends to the British ; and were mentioned by Sir John Keane as having assis- ted him much in supplying his force, and shewed their anxiety to do so now. They immediately hlied our bazaars with provision, and gave every mformation in their power relative to the enemy SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 283 This place, as well as the last we left, was thronged with small, neatly built forts, erected in two lines, and was calleil, "The plain of a thousand forts;" the one side was occupied by the Affghans, and the other by the Hazarahs ; the former were all deser- ted ; and we could therefore get no supplies from them ; we had therefore to plunder and destroy them; we wanted grain principally for our cattle, our other supplies of food being more easy to procure ; the meat required for the troops was killed daily, the cattle being driven with the force ; the flour required for bread and biscuit, used to be ground by native followers, with hand-mills, on every halt day. It however turned out that tba Affghans, finding in the lower country that we were determined to have supplies by force, if no one would sell, intimated to the upper posts for them to secrete their grain, and thus prevent us from ;>lundering it ; but I was passing round a fort one day with a stick in my hand, and I found the earth weak, and driving it in, 1 soon found out the spoil. I took from holes round the outside of one fort, grain, bar- ley and wheat sufficient to load two hundred camels, and our first look out after that, was of course for the grain graves. We were ordered to halt here for a day, but in consequence of news of impor- tance arriving from Ghuznee, where we had spies, we were directed to march at five, A. M., next day. During the time that Sir William McNaughten and General Elphinstone were negociating with 284 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. Akbar Khan, for evacuating the country, it may be remembered that orders were sent to Ghuznee Killat-I-Gilzie, and Candahar, for the commanders there to evacuate them also ; the two latter were however, fortunately, not complied with, or no doubt Nott's force would have met a similar fate to those at Cabool, having a similar route to travel, vid the Kojuk and Bolun Passes. Ghuznee was, however, after considerable parley between Colonel Palmer^ who commanded, and Shooms-ood-Dien, who was directed to treat with, and protect the Ghuznee force through the country, given up according to a treaty solemnly sworn to by the Sirdar and h's col- leagues. General Nott, it will be remembered, despatched a brigade under Colone) McLaren from Candahar, to the assistance of Palmer ; but from the sudden inclemency of the weather, and heavy falls of snow, was weather-bound, and unable either to advance or return ; the Ghuznee folk knew not of this, and assistance was expected daily '7 them. Colonel Palmer, who held Ghuznee witti the 27th Regiment, Native Infantry, and a few others, had been long held in jeopardy, and about the end of 1841, news came that Ghuznee was surrounded by 20,000 men, being a division of Akbar Khan's army, who had massacred the Cabool force, in the Tezeen Pass ; in the early part of the year 1842, the weather became very severe, the thermometer standing sometimes ten, twelve, and more than that SCENES IN A. soldier's LIFE. 285 below zero ; and it may be imagined, the sufferings of the natives of India, in such a severe clime, wai dreadful indeed ; the cold has an awful effect on the native soldiers ; they lose all courage, and I do not hesitate to say, that had the enemy, in any instance, summoned pluck to attack us in cold weather, they could have gained a victory ; that is when Europeans were not a part of the force. They were compelled, from the constant annoyance of the surrounding foe, to keep in tlje fortress, and soon after brought the arrival of Shoods-ood-Dien Khan; and the Colonel, unwilling to give up the place, kept the Sirdar at bay, or in treaty, till the middle of March, when the chiefs, determining to stand it no longer, resolved to commence hostilities, and stop all supplies. The force, having no water in the citadel, were in a helpless condition ; the snow now disappeared,— and the provisions were consumed , the fortress surrounded with an overwhelming foe, no arrival from Candahar, no prospect of succour, only one solitary regiment of some six or seven hundred men to oppose 20,000,— left the Colonel no other medium, than to enter into the best terms he could, andhehopedtoeffect an arrangement which would at least secure them protection. A treaty was then entered into, to the effect that the force occupying: Ghuznee should be conducted with safety and honor to Peshawar, with all their property invio- late. This was most solemnly sworn to by all con- cerned, and the troops left the citadel, and were 286 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. quartered in the town, under the walls of the cita. del, It being inipossibleto proceed until the snow- had subsided from the passes. The troops had no sooner quitted the citadel, and the enemy in pos- session of it, than they turned traitors, violating their oaths ; and mocking the troops as infidels and culprits ; they commenced a severe battle, and succeeded in annihilating many of the troops. 1 aimer, however, who had arranged in the treaty that each man should carry fifty rounds of ammu- nition, formed up his few remaining men, and sue ceeded m keeping off the enemy till night: but alas I his ammunition was all expended, several of the officers were wounded, and there was no chance of escape; efi-orts were made to dig a hole through the wall, which, after a long time, having nothing but bayonets to work with, was accomplished, and one by one numbers escaped, but to meet a worse fate J the enemy, discovering this, stopped it, and the houses occupied by them in the town were filled with the dead and dying; poor Mrs. Lumsden, and her husband, with all the servants in the house were • put to death. Colonel Palmer was in a most dejec ted state, no provisions of any kind, nor prospect of any; the scene was horrible; the day broke, and the few remaining collected together at head quarters ; they burnt their property, some their watches, ring., miniatures, and thu colors of the regiment, lest they should fall in the traitors' hands r one man, having some gold, loaded his piece, deter- ^ SCENES IN A SOLPIBR'a LIFE. 28T ^ mined, if be did sacrifice it, it should be in some of their bodies. The few remaining Sepoys now< became desperate, and gave up all idea of disci- pUno. Shooms-ood-Dien and the chiefs again swore by p.ll the most sacred oaths, that if they would lay down their arms, all would he right, and that they should be sent to Cabool, and hono- rably treated, as soon as possible. The Sirdar sent and begged they would come into the citadel, to treat on the subject, as they were in the utmost danger, as the Ghazees were only awaiting for their lives outside. They went up to the gate, gave up their Bwords, and were ushered into the presence of the chief; those who refused to enter the citadel were cut to pieces or alike made prisoners. The chief for the first few days treated them tolerably well, but afterwards very severely ; they were placed in small rooms, about tv/enty feet, by nine, together, without beds or comforts ; not even changes of linen, in consequence of which they were soon covered with vermin and filth, open to every chance of contracting a loathsome disease— dirty, and mi- serable. They tortured the Colonel with ropes and tent pegs, by dragging his joints and feet ; they were told they would be each tortured in turn, and the pleasantness of such a life may be imagined, never an hour certain of being alive ; but life was worse than all then. News at length arrived ^ of the murder of Shah Shoojah, the king of Cabool, and the severities heaped on the Ghuznee prisonerft 288 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. were threefold j occasionally, the wretches would be a little easy, and then would seem as if they had been concocting some other plan to render their lives more miserable. All this went on till August, when they were sent off towards Cabool, and on their arrival were taken direct to Akbar Khan, the cold-blooded murderer of McNaughten. He said that he had repeatedly sent off directions to Ghuznee, to have them sent to Cabool, but hii letters remained unanswered ; but now they had come they should be treateu like officers ; the news was doubtless acceptable, after such a specimen of Affghan sympathy as that at Ghuznee; on the following morning after breakfast, they were sent to join the other British prisoners, who had been taken at Cabool, who were a few miles off, Akbar kindly handing them over to the care of Major Pot- tinger ; a list of clothes they required was sent to the Khan, and supplied, and they then proceeded with the whole of the prisoners to Bameean, under the care of an arrant rascal of a chief, whose word or oath was not in the least to be depended on. In consequence of news arriving from Ghuznee, we were ordered to proceed at once. Nothing of note occurred for three or four days ; the enemy having evidently gone to assemble in one body at Ghuznee, and await our arrival. The orchards well filled with fruits, were ripening fast, and the Tribe of Hazarah^ still continued to supply our bazaar, and the fruit was a fine luxury, SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. 289 being cheap, as well as good. I had almost for- gotten to remark) that for several days, as we came along, we were joined by men of the 27th Regi- ment, Native Infantry, being some of those who had escaped from Ghuznee, at the time of the out- break, and were, as they joined, taken on our strength ; they had on generally the Alfghan cos- tume, and were known by their manners, and caste ; these arriving almost daily, were examin- ed as to the force at Ghuznee; we learned that Shooms-ood-Dien had possession of the fortress, that a very strong force had assembled, and that they labored under the impression, that we should retire from them, as they held it, and in stronger force than when captured by Keane, in 1839. — On our nearer approach towards Ghuznee, greater numbers of the 27th came in, and of course, gave much information. On the 4th of September, we reached camp, some six miles from the fortress, and early on the morning of the 5th, made slow pro- gress, owing to the ground being so intersected with deep ravines, that it required considerable exer- tions to get the baggage and cattle over — we at length arrived in sight of the fortress, and it bore a most formidable appearance, and left the impres- sion that much remained to be done. Ghuznee is situated on the base of a hill, which supports its rear or main post, and commands a most extensive plain, and it is in the midst of a rich, fertile country ; it has ever held the most noble T 290 SCENES IN A soldier's UFE. rank as a capital, and is capable of being rendered one of the most important fortifications in the Eastern Nations ; its adjacent hills are great, and border on Dcra and Bamecan ; it covers the routes of the latter, as well as Loghar and Cabool ; near the low hills which command the city, are several cemeteries, and ancient buildings ; at a short dis- tance is Rozah, in which stands the great sepulchre, and shrine of Mahmood, the once famed Emperor of Ghuznce ; and of whom, ^^ Dow" speaks so much in his History of Hindostan. The revenue of Ghuznee, at the present day, is not very great ; but the country abounds in riches, in the shape of orchards, and other productions. The fortress in itself is of great importance ; the town is walled round, and contains several thousand houses ; the former principally of stone, and the latter of mud. It is surrounded by a deep trench ; the main entrance, being the one blown up by Sir Joiin Keane, is in ruins, and another was made to the right. In the centre of the town, stands the citadel, which had three tiers ; the lower one had been much improved since we possessed it, and a parade ground, or large square j had been formed, as a park for the ordnance. A river ran close by, which afforded good water, and rendered it almost complete. All remained quiet, till within a short distance from them, fortunately for us, as it enabled us to get up our baggage, and cattle ; close to the rear of the column, the road was very difficult, being SCENES IM A soldier's LIFE. 291 IS over extensive flolda of long grass, and the ditches Tery numerous and wide, in crossing which the cattle were continually falling, which greatly delayed us. The General directed the Light Battalion to pro- ceed with the Quarter Master General, to take up an encampment opposite to Ghuznee, at a place some two and a half miles from the fortress, known as Sir John Keaue's garden. I accompanied this body, and as we proceeded, we discovered the enemy in the citadel, and a great number outside, preparing to advance. The Quarter Master Gene- ral ordered a portion of his force to man a sm:.!! hill, which commanded their approach, and left it in charge of Captain Adamson, of the 40th. The General despatched in another direction, the 16th Native Infantry, under Colonel McLaren, who were met by the enemy, and a smart action took place; fortunately, however, after having rallied for some time, the corps managed to get under cover, in a walled garden, about a mile from the fort, and kept .them off in fine style; the Colonel, finding the enemy so numerous, feared a serious result, as the chauces were, the General could not send him a re-inforcement, before the whole of his ammunition would be expended, and a soldier without ammu- nition, is not in the most enviable situation. The Quarter Master General's party was attacked, but effected a complete mastery over them, and drove them back. The General, perceiving the situation of McLaren, despatched the 3rd Regiment, 292 SCENES iN A soldier's LIFE. Light Cavalry, and two of Anderson's guns, who got up just in time to save them, as they were getting short of shot ; at length came up the General with the main body ; the cavalry made a grand charga after those outside the town, and we lost a great number of our men> but not before .eaving a greater number of the enemy lying on the field j during ail this time those in possession of the citadel were not idle, but made some excellent play with their guns from the square I named, as being situate on the lower part of the citadel ; but fortunately for us their knowledge of the art of gunnery was so shallow thai they did little or no damage with their guns. One of the hills mentioned as adjacent to the fortress, was called Balloon Hill, from its peculiar form, and difiiculty of ascent ; this hill was literally crowded with the rebels, and their colours were planted in every direction ; they now began to emerge from the gates in great numbers, and finding, after the charge of the cavalry, that they had no chance of overpowering the front, Shooms-ood-Dien despatched a large force round, to attack the rear of our columns. The General had, however, taken the necessary precaution, and reinforcec^ the rear guard to 2000 men, with six guns, including the heavy battery. Perceiving the object the enemy had in view, let fly a vol- ley of grape to meet them, which had the desi- gkound, and the rest immediately made off j the next SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 293 ra thing to be done was to get possession of Balloon Hill. This hill was so situated that it commanded all around it, and more particularly the square in the citadel, as it immediately covered it. The General directed the 40th and 16th to proceed at once and take the hill. The order was in itself easily given; my readers may imagine the position. The guns from the citadel were in full play, the hill was in possession of, and covered by several hundrf ds of the enemy, both horse and foot ; the as- cent wasconsiderable, andwe were nearly two miles from it. However, it is not for Britons to look at difficulties in such a moment, for had we done so we should never have accomplished it ; we set for- ward, and those in the fortress seeing our advance, opened a heavy fire upon us, which. Providence be thanked, showed us that they could not hit their mark, andwe reached the foot of the hill with little loss. Those in possession, leapt for joy, at the apparent opportunity of cutting us off. We com- menced the ascent, throwing out skirmishers in every direction ; our fire was kept up steadily as on a parade, and every ball seemed to find its desired billet ; numbers fell, of course, but not near so many as we had been anticipating. We were obliged to halt half way to gain breath, and neces- sitated tc keep up a heavy fire; we again advanced, and the enemy began to show symptoms of retiring, which greatly encouraged us, and we made a des- perate effort, and sent a volley into them, charged, Wfmmm ■i»Wii li 'i 294 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. I 'ill and at length they retired ; we followed, and at last gained the summit. Theyrashed down the other side, and made off in the direction of Candahar, where they were met by a brigade sent round by the General for that purpose. Having gained possession of the hill, those in the citadel began to pour the fire of artillery into us, but as usual without success, and in order to get out of sight we were ordered to lie down, that they might imagine we had evacuated our position; as we lay there, the balls were fast whistling over us, and the force under the command of the Gene- ral was making a clean sweep of all those out- side the walls, which after he had effected, next required the citadel. It was however found imprac- ticable to storm the fortress that day, first because the Sappers and Miners could not have time to com- plete their operations, and second, in consequence of the fatigued state of the troops. The 16th was to be left in charge of the hill, and the 40th were ordered to return to the encampment ; this order was, if anything, even worse than the first, because all being comparatively quiet, we should, on retir- ing, b : the only targets for them to fire at, and our utter destruction seemed inevitable ; we, however, had to obey, and as was expected, no sooner did we come under cover of their guns than they opened a severe fire from all their pieces, but their firing was always either too far, or too short ; and thus we reached camp in almost safety. SCENES IN A SOLDIEK'S UFB. 295 The followers had been all employed in pitching the tents, and the cooks (natives) had prepared our scanty meal ; the 16th were left in possession of the hill ; and the General ordered two guns, either under Captain Blood or Anderson, I really forget which, to proceed to the top of the hill, and dis- lodge them in the citadel, which, after some diffi- culty, was eflfected, and most ably did they accom- plish their duty ; they soon put a stop to them, and by their superior arrangement and management of artillery, disabled nearly all their guns. We had scarcely got well seated in our tents when we were suddenly surprised by the whizzing of a ball over the Camp, which lodged in the officers' mess tent of the 41st ; after that came another and ano- ther, and they kept up a Ene string of them, aim- ing most admirably. We soon discovered that they had a sixty-eight pounder, which before had re- mained quiet. These shots coming so fast, and lodging just in our midst, doing considerable damage, although we were nearly two miles from it, compelled the General to shift camp a mile further off, and we were at last out of the reach of the bull-dog ; they most cer- tainly in this instance did put us to the route. This piece was called " Chuppa Jung," of Persian manufacture, and as is usual in all the forts of im- portance in Asia, was placed in the citadel; and o mnai nAWA.rfnl nifiCe it WaS. 296 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. I The General now began to arrange his plans for storming, and taking the fortress ; the engineers were all busily employed in preparing for the ope- Fation ; and as the day began to draw to a close, orders were issued for the troops to be in readiness to move just before daylight on the morrow. The night at length came on, and lights were ordered to be extinguished at eight, P. M.; and at that hour all was darkness, and enveloped upwards of 20,000 souls, ft would be impossible for me to describe sufficiently the acuteness of a sol- dier's feelings the night before a battle; if an action takes place, suddenly, and without having been much contemplated, the thing is not so much felt, ])ecause circumstances will not per- mit him to reflect; but when, having been engaged, and the day's work is done, and knowing that the morrow will bring forth another conflict, it would be hard to describe the feelings at such a period. Picture yourself, sitting after an action, sur- rounded with the remaining comrades, in your tent, and looking round to see how many there were left, and who are missing; to listen to the de- tails as to who saw him last, and how he fell ; and then to wonder whether you would be there tomorrow night, to talk over the exploits of the day : picture the soldier, with a throbbing heart, filled with anxiety at knowing he was about to form one of a storming party, on a place of immense SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 297 j strength, which, almost under any circumstances, must result in the destruction of some hundreds of our men — and who were those men? That was the question. " Shall I get shot, I wonder, tomorrow?" one would say ; " well if I do, let so and so be done." "You'll write to my friends aud let them know about it," another would ask of a comrade. " Of course I will," would be his answer, " if I escape." Picture another on a hoarded sheet of paper, soiled with keeping, penning down his last wishes, in the fullest expectation of being killed ; and ima- gine his inward feelings, silent and careworn, quietly ruminating on the morrow. There lay the men in sadness, on their cold and earthy beds, anx- iously awaiting the signal to prepare for a last struggle ; the expressions of each heart, could it have been made audible, would doubtlesshave been found to be offering up prayers to the maker and ruler of all things, or pondering over their boyhood's days, when, surrounded by all the tranquillity of af- fection and happiness, when they had no care or fear. The scenes of early youth would pass as visions be- ^bre their eyes, and present themselves in all their joyousness and fondness ; the playmates would be whispering their mutual tales, and danger for the moment would be lost to the mind; the progressing years would follow fast in the weary soldier's mind, and suddenly wov ' return to his present situation, r»~ r^« A.o,«v> 4^lirwan ana-naa ar\i\-fr\or\i\a f»f nTir»ft Sft dftftr and near, in hourly expectation of being sacrificed 298 SCENES IN A SOLDIEB^S LIFE. III! in bis country's cause, with the fear that those friends might never know the particulars of his last moments, while in the raging of battle, and tumult of the crush he would be consigned to a soldier's unknown grave. Such was the position in which the troops of Ghuznee were placed on the night of the fifth of September ; every heart was filled with dismay, not knowing but that it was his last night with his comrades. There is scarce anything so pain- ful amongst soldiers as parting with each other, a certain fraternal tie exists amongst them, which is in itself unaccountable, and at once makes our army so able and so powerful. All was at length pre- pared for the attack, and about half an hour before the day broke, the word was passed from tent to tent, to form up. Each rose in sadness, and many shook the hand of his comrade as for the last time ; the cattle were despatched with the powder, to ensure the explosion, and platforms had been care- fully planted for the heavy battery to commence a breach. The troops were slowly and silently ad- vanced, and arranged ready to storm immediately after the gates were blown up ; and daybreak was to be the signal. At length the day dawned, and lo ! what was our surprise when we saw floating on the highest tower the English colors. The sight relie- ved each heart as though we had had a fortune. The enemy had during the night evacuated the citadel, PPrfnin nrHpra in ihai afPaM frnm Cabool. Colonel McLaren, who had kept the hill, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 299 finding they had left it, took immediate possession, and placed "The Flag that braved a thousand years" on the highest point. Thusdid Providence prevent the inevitable loss of some hundreds of our force, and never was a force more agreeably surprised than those at Ghuznee on the 6th of September, 1841. \ CHAPTER XVI. Ghuznec; Chuppa Jung; Description of the Fortress; Interest- ing lettero; The vicinity of Ghuznee; Orchards; Fruit; Pre- parations for destroying the Citadel; A general havoc; The Somnauth Gates; Mahmood's tomb; March towards Cabool; Futteh Khan's fort; Young'Evans again ; Strange discovery; Captain Woodbum's will; His dreadful death, and massacre of his force; Night dangerous; Prospect of a night attack; Short but harrassing march; Valley of Midan; An impudent CMief; Suspicious arrival; Approach near Cabool; Entrance into Cabool; Lieut. Shakespeare; The prisoners; Sir Robert Sale's Brigade sent to rescue them. Ghuznee being now ours, all hands made a point of visiting this impregnable fortress ; and on enter- ing, a road leading to the right brought us into the spot where lay all the disabled guns, and our friend " Chuppa Jang:' The gun was of brass, and moun- ted on a large wooden carriage, and was surmoun- ted at the centre by two brass lions and.rings ; its length was thirteen feet four inches ; and two feet from the muzzle, five feet two inches in cir- cumference ; it had evidently been much used, as it bore the appearance of having been repaired. It was a most unwieldy instrument to move, but most certainlv did orroof rlon>oa>A ««;» «r«„ ,„«ii »■ Q-vift; i.it.ijj.n.t^v, dliu. rrao vvcii situated where it was. In this space was fine f'. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 801 stabling, and barracks which were erected and used by Pahner'a Brigade. On retracing our steps, we came to a long passage, the end of which was the magazine, well stored with every kind of ordnance, fuzes, shells, rockets, ammunition of every des- cription, being that left by Palmer on liis evacua- tion. Close to this place was a well, wluch, although dry, led us to believe that there was a possibility of procuring water, had it been tried, and I must confess my surprise that Palmer had not made some effort to have procured water in the fort; which, with his force, from the very commanding position afford- ed in the citadel, it would have been almost impos- sible to have lost. Close by was an arch-way leading to the citadel; two large copper cased gates, studded with huge nails, formed the entrance, and on wind- ing round to the left, led to an inner square ; the buildings were of fine eastern construction, being ornamented with most delicate, perforated work, so joined with ingenuity together as to form a net-work, introducing most tasteful figures and designs. The walls plastered white and enamelled, ornamented and corniced; the houses were of two stories, and the lower ones were used as kitchens ; in one of the upper landings I discovered two oblong, dark, narrow rooms, which, on exami- nation, I found to have been occupied by our unfortunate countrymen, when prisoners here for 302 SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. I I i ii •everal months ; they were in a very filthy state, and the stench exceedingly disagreeable. On closer exa- mination, which of course curiosity would lead to, several portions of writing were found on the walls, some written with burnt stick, a nail, or some other cutting substance, and one was in pencil. I took a literal copy of every portion of the writing, and it will of course be interesting to my readers, as well as corroborative and illustrative of the feel- ings of the unfortunate fellows ; it will also fully bear out the brief detail given by me of the affair, wl^ch is taken from an account I had from one of the prisoners' own lipp The following are true copies : — First, (written with a blunt pencil.) «• Col. Palmer, Capt. Olston, Lt. Powett, Lt. Harris, Ensigns Williams, Nicholson, and Davis, and Dr. Thompson, 27th N. I , Capt. Lee Burnett, 54th, and Lt. Crawford, S. S. F., prisoners in the fort of Ghuznee, through the treachery of Sirdar Shooms- ood-Dien Khan, his brothers Gool Mahomed, Nahib Ravoolish Khan, and Sirdar Mullok Mahomed, in having broken everj article of two treaties solemnly sworn to. If on the arrival of any British force, the prisoners are not forthcoming, avenge them on the aboveipentioned, and on Khan Mahomed or Killa Madoof (a cousin of the Sirdar's) his brother Taj Mahomed, and Nizar Mahomed— they had charge of the prisoners, and treated them most infamously, having once tortured the Colonel, and taken •very opportunity of being insolent and oppressive. (Signed,) « C. Harhis." "P.S.— 26th May, 1842.— Khan Mahomed Khan is said to have a wife and two children In the power of Captain Mackeson, in Kbanxez." 8CSKSS IN A soldier's LIFE. 303 tate, and oser exa- I lead to, be walls, me other I took a ng, and Elders, as the feel- ully hear e affair, on one of is, Ensiig^ns 27th N. I , risoners in r Shooms- Ravoolish iken ©verj arrival of enge them lla Madoof and Nizar !ated them and taken 'arbib." is said to Kfackeson, SmomT, (lerittm with a nail or hard tubttanet.) " If we are killed, let our blood be avenged on Sirdar Shoomi- ood-Dien Khan, Niaar Mullok Mahomed, and Gool Mahomed Khan." Thirdy (icratched on the waB.) «• May 28th. «• Let Sirdar Shooms-ood-Dien, and all his brothers, be blown away ; Khan Mahomed Khan, and his brother Taj Mahomed, be hanged ; and their followers, and as many of our jailors as can be caught." Fourth, (written with a burnt stick or charcoal) " 27th May, '42. ••An Affghan, by name FuttuUok, a Shika.'ee, and an infernal scoundrel, must be hanged without the least mercy. (Signed.) "T. D" Fifth, (scratched on the wall) f " Colonel Palmer, Capt. Burnett, 54th, Olston, 27th, Powett, Lts Crawford (Christie's Horse,) Harris, Williams, Nicholson, Davis, Dr. Thompson— confined in the Bala Hissar, as prisoners, since the 10th March, 1842." Sixth, (written with burnt wood.) •' Shooja was killed on the 6th April, 1842." Seventh, (written with burnt wood.) Mrs. Lumsden's room opposite, in which was written,— ••Thomas Persey,"-" Teague,"-" Rathfamam,"-" 23 Rupees, 13th June." Initials, &c. &c., were written in every part of the rooms, evidently having been the occupation of the poor, miserable, incarcerated creatures, expressive of their inward sentiments, when thinking of their home and friends, who knew not of their condition, and perchance should never meet again. It is needless to comment on this, as it will convey sufficient to the mind of the reader, to enable him to enter into f-':*^ 304 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. i\u the foolinga of those who wore so long oppressed by an insolent and treacherous foe. Onreadingthe portion of writing, stating that "Mrs Lumsden's room was oi)posite," I of course went tliitlier, and a sorry liolo ft was ; a small room in which were several broken bottles, an old tin clothes box, and the head of a human being I I believe it was that of a native. I proceeded up a staircase leading from the four sides of the square to the turret of the place, which was high, and afforded a beau- tiful view; this formed also a nice promenade, and at each corner was a bastion, in which was a small room, most elaborately ornamented, and was used by the chiefs as a lounging room. A small window to each, under which was a couch of marble, enabled them to see for a vast extent round the beautiful country, the whole of which, for miles, was richly thronged with orchards filled with trees, bending with the choicest fruits, apples, plums, peaches, grapes, &c., in abundance. Of such a variety of flavors w^ere those fruits, that it now became a matter of taste and dilTiculty to suit oneself. The grapes in particular, varied in size from a currant to that of a pullet's egg. I weighed several that exceeded half an ouiicc, and it was f oiu ?..> v to see bunches so large that two men would carry them on the centre of a pole, to prevent destroying them • nav so plentiful were the fruits, both apples and grapes th?t we used to feed upwards of 35,000 head of cn^v^'e T?Iih them, during our stay. SCENES IN A SOLDIEH'S LIFE. 305 pressed U"Mrs e went oom in clothes lievc it laircase e turret I beau- ie, and a small 18 used idow to snabled lautiful richly ending jaclies, iety of matter grapes mt to I that to see em on i; nay :rapes, 3ad of We collected a larj^e quantity of grain and flour from the citadel, and lots of firewood ; all that was of use to us wc nmk ; the guns, about eiglitcen in number, were destroyed, including " Chuppa," and the portions of the magazines which might reple- nish ours were selected ; the remainder was used to undermine the towers, ere we left the place, and the Sappers having completed their arrange- ments, the train was fired, and the once impregna- ble fortress and citadel of Ghuznee was razed to the ground— and thus the (ire kindled in 1838 and 1839, by Lord Keanc's army, was quenched by Nott's, in 1842. The General took care to destroy every place, calculated to prove a refuge, and several forts, in and near the place, were fired and blown up, and we were ordered to proceed towards Oabool, as it was expected that the enemy had assembled there en masse; and as we should have to join PoUotk, who was fast advancing up the passes on the other side, we were all anxious to arrive there first. The commander had received instructions from the Governor General to call at Rozah, en route, and take from the tomb of Sultan Mahmood, the cele- brated gates of Somnauth. A working party was ordered to accompany Major Saunders, of the Engineers, and take them down. I went of course, and managed to preserve a few pieces, which I kept as curiosities, and brought to England. u 306 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. JMll M The tomb of the resting monarch was certainly most beautiful, and many were the cries of regret of the fakeers about the place, at the removal of the gates ; they offered lacs of rupees to leave them. According to Dow's History, we learn that between the year 996 and 1028, Mahmood with an Immense army, made his way to wan' s India, and being short of funds, resolved on ransacking Somnauth, a town in the Guzerat Peninsula. Somnauth con- tained a temple of great worth, and in it an Idol of considerable stature, made of gold, whose bowels, says the historian, were of costly jewels ; after repeated attacks, several of which had proved unsuccessful, on the part of Mahmood, he effected its overthrow — secured the idol, turned the gold into money, and sold the jewels ; and on retiring, carried off the gates of the temple as a trophy, to Ghuznee, and directed that they should enclose his tomb. These are the said gates, and the Moolahs were in constant prayer for their protection. Somnauth still exists, and the natives of Guzerat, when addressed by the Governor General, heard with the greatest satisfaction that he purposed restoring to them the gates tliat once enclosed their deity of that name. They are two huge gates, after the style of our cimrch doors, richly carved, and are of sandal wood ; but age seemed to have taken away the beautiful perfume from the wood ; they were carefully packed in numdahs, a sort of matted hair blanket, and a platform cart was allot- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 307 ted for them, and a strong guard mounted over, and accompanied them every day. On the old site of Ghuznee stand two minarets of immense height, wliich are worked over with hieroglyphics, and mark the entrance to the old and famous city. We recommenced our march towards Cabool ; the road was somewhat better, and the mornings were most beautiful ; but being many thousands of feet above the level of the sea, it must have been very severe in the winter. We marched through a most picturesque scene, leading through a pass, of about two miles and a half, and opening out into a lovely plain, and the suddenness of the transition much enlivened the traveller, for the varieties of a route diversified by the beauties of nature, render it oftentimes plea- sant; but the pleasantry of our journey was over- thrown by the fact of our attention being called to other more serious matters. Nothing of u3te occurred for some Lvf days, save our luck at getting occasionally a good sup- ply of grain ; this day I collected about 40,000 lbs. of wheat, buried in three holes, and a fine prize it was, as our stock, as we drew near to Cabool, was fast decreasing. On the 12th we arrived at the fort formerly belonging to Futteh Khan ; the inhabitants had however, deserted it, and had carefully blocked up, the entrance with mud and stones; which wo, how- Ill 308 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. erer, soon removed ; on our determination to enter it, young Evans, 41st, who was ever daring and brave, perhaps too much so, mounted up the steep walls like a young deer, and it was fortunate for him that none of the enemy were in the fort, or he must certainly have been cut up ; we, however, soon gained an entrance, and found plenty of lucerne or dried grass. On searching round we saw a spot where a considerable deal of blood had been shed, and on searching the interior we found some articles of European manufacture. I entered a small inner room, and picked up a tea-cup, a stock, and several letters ; one proved to be the will of the late Cap- tain Woodburn, who, in November of 1841, was, with one hundred and fifty Sepoys, barbarously mas- sacred by the AfFghans, at this place ; they were buried in a large hole dug outside, and were yet visible ; a letter was also found, being a letter of recommendation from Sir William M'Naughten ; it was written in Persian. I gave the will and stock to Major Leech ; a large party of the Staff were present at the melancholy discovery, and caused many epithets to be heaved upon the rascally traitors who, in cold-blood, could murder unprotected beings, particularly men in sickness. The enemy were found to be hovering about here, and attacked small parties of grass cutters, going a short dis- tance. During the night several sentries were placed rt/^««i r\m j-v* 4-««fti« occurred ; but we had now become so used to it. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 309 soon that it became a sort of music, and it was consi- dered very strange if we had not some of it every night,— pop, pop, continually,— and, scarcely listen- ing, those in the tents would sleep as soundly as if nothing extraordinary was going on. During this night some Affghans succeeded in shooting a sentry on his post ; and it being a dou- ble sentry, his comrade was severely wounded; one man of the 41st was overpowered by a few of them, and cut to pieces. The nights now became more serious. Yelling and shouting, firing from jezaills and matchlocks into our camp, at the dead hour of night, ren- dered it necessary to be up, and it caused much annoyance. The foe, evidently intended to have another trial, had arranged themselves amongst the adjacent hills, and followed us closely, though out of our sight. Next day brought us in a very intricate position; our camp was surrounded by hills, and it was necessary to detach several strong guards, in the defiles; Shooms-ood-Dien, who still commanded the enemy, had stationed him- self not far off, and as the enemy drew nigh, deter- mined to make a night attack. The General, how- ever, was well up with hun, and divided the majo- rity of his troops, to command the hills, and a heavy fire was kept up from all parties ; the night certainly was much against us ; but we, however, ^^^^^AaA in tooninor fhftm off, ftftftF a wcarv 1-t night. We next morning made the best of our way 310 SCENES IK A SOLDIEB^S LIFE. towards Midan. Major Leech, who was at the head of our Intelligence Department, obtained, by means of some Hazarahs and other spies, information that Shooms-ood-Dieu intended to obstruct our path this mornin^^j and we had expected to have made a long march, but were prevented from doing so by the appearance of the foe. Our route led along a narrow valley, with the enemy on both sides, in the hills, and so narrow was the road, that we were within the range of their matchlocks. The consequence was that many experienced very narrow escapes ; I, for one, moving along, had a ball graze my turban, and Cap- tain Adamson, 40th, had one across the peak of his cap ; another got a ball on his breast plate, and innumerable others. The General directed Our artillery to keep up a continued irregular fire, during our advance, and after great difficulty we managed to get into a wider part of the road ; the Light Companies were directed to crown the heights. The Quarter Master General had either mistaken the ground, or the order had not been properly understood, or we should have encamped much nearer. The Quarter Master General's party had great difficulty in pitching camp, as they were under a heavy fire of the enemy, and had to keep them off; but on the arrival of the main body they were soon quieted, and we passed, much to our sur- nrisp a VPW Onlm nIo>li+ On InAL-inn- rlrk"^" '^" t^a valley of Midan, it presented one of the most SCENES IN A SOLDIEB'S LIFE. 311 beautiful of scenes— crowded with small forts, and bordered with the ricliest orchards, intersected by a clear stream, that watered the fields. The country was variegated with the ^ >vely tints of autumn, and the tall pine trees waving their heads in majestic splendour, coupled with the odori- ferous fragrance from innumerable flowers, made the scene baffle all description; but all those, being the strongholds of the chiefs, who had so long opposed us, were doomed to destruction, and soon became a burning mass. An impudent rascal of a chief, who actually confessed that he had been fighting against us the day before, came to Major Leech, to whom he was well known, and wished to get from the General a written paper, that his property would be protected ; but the General sent him off, with the declaration that if one shot was fired, the whole of Midan would be in ruins that night. The General, not un- derstanding the language spoken, was necessitated to speak through his interpreter, and I being close by at the time, learned the fact of his visit. We again got on the road, and reached Urgundee. It was at this place that Dost Mohammed Khan planted his guns across the road, to intercept the route of Sir John Keane, but thinking better of it, abandonedhisintentions,leavingthemto be captured by us, and afterwards surrendered himself to Sir William M'Nauditen, and was sent as a state pri- soner to Calcutta. Ij 312 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. In the afternoon, a son of one of the chiefs of the Kuzzilbashes, a Persian race,— and who foiin a portion of the population of Cabool,-— arrived in camp, to say that he would do all in his power to assist the British, having aban- doned Akbar Khan ; it was certainly strange con- duct ; but it led us to understand that Cabool was not likely to be opposed, and that General Pollock had made a successful affair of his advance through the Khiva. We were on our next day's march met by several officers from Pollock's force, who were now at Cabool, having gained a march or two on us. We soon reached our next destination, Cabool, and encamped about five miles on this side. On our reaching camp, the forts around were nearly all vacated, and on entering several, we disco- vered quantities of the stores of the massacred army; one fort contained a great many bottles, glasses, cans, furniture, boxes, boots, hospital stores, tents, and, in fact, more than is necessary to detail. The sight of these things filled every heart with revenge, and determined them not to shew clemency to a single soul, bearing the slightest connection with the Affghan race. The camp was again moved nearer to Cabool, and about a mile and a half from the camp of Gene- ral Sale, consisting of the 9th and 13th Regiments, and 3rd Light Dragoons ; several of them visited us, and the meeting may be easily imagined. News arrived that Mrs. Trevor and seven children, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 313 Dr. Campbell, and his lady,, and Captain Troup, who had been prisoners, had been rescued. A Brigade, consisting of the 3rd Light Dragoons, a wing of the 13th Light Infantry, and four guns, were ordered to proceed, under command of General Sale, to reinforce Lieutenant Shakespeare, who had been sent some time before to recover the prisoners, who, it was believed, were in the Bamean Passes —hard by. Lieutenant Shakespeare is the inde- fatigable officer, who, it may be remembered, had charge of the Russian prisoners some few years ago, and had now been sent with some six hundred Kuzzilbashes after ours ; it was also rumoured that Akbar Khan was at large, and we lived in great hopes that he might be taken ; after many rumours, news arrived from the g^^Uant Lieutenant that the prisoners had been discovered safe, and Sale's Brigade was sent off at once to protect them into camp, lest a rescue might take place. CHAPTER XVII. State of the times; Detail of the unfortunate disasters at Cabool ; Akbar Khun; The petition of the Cantonment; Power of the enemy; The Rebel Chiefs; First evidence of the outbreak; Sir William McNaushtcn; Sir Alexander Barnes; Serious warmng of his servant; Position of the Ambassador; His retinue; His career, and his murder; Alarming situation of tiie enemy; The King; His power; Conduct and dominion; The Durbar; The insurgent Chief.; General Elphinstone; His conduct; The 44th Uegiment; Their conduct; Miserable prdspect; Captureof prisoner? by the enemy; Hostile meeting; Determination to stand; Overpowered; Forced to retire quick ; Meetmgofthe Envoy and Chiefs; Brigadier Shelton; Britain's honor at stake; State of the King's Palace; Hostile corres- pondence; Proposed meeting between Akbar and the Enemy; Secret development; The meeting; Serious misgivings; The Envoy's life in danger; The seizure; Dastardly conduct of Akbar; Massacre of McNaughteu, and capture of his Suite. The excitement which liad long existed, reUitive to the prisoners, is ah'cady very fjimilar to my readers, and it needs hardly to be noticed at any great length by me here; their happy release was principally owing to the unremitting exertions of Major Pot- tinger, who was one of them • and as it will, no doubt, be a matter of particular interest to know the manner in which they were treated, and the general cause of this; having now reached Cabool, 1 may BCENE3 IN 1. soldier's LIFE. 315 as well draw the matter up in a short detail, in order to thus far acquaint my readers. Several of the prisoners, with whom I was intimately ac- quainted, afforded me much information, and I thus am the better enabled to give it to my friends. In the Introductory Chapter of this unvarnished tale, I have given a brief history of the country, its connection immediately with the war, and so far down as Shah Shooja's enthronement. Sir John Keane, it will be remembered, retired from the country, leaving it, in his opinion, in a sufficiently tranquil state to admit of his doing so witli propriety, giving the Shah the advantage of the protection of a British force, until such time as he should have his own sufficiently organized, and permit ours to be with- drawn. The country remained for some time, after Sir John Keane retired, in an apparent state of quie- tude, and the Chiefs, who had ever shewn their independent spirit to Dost Mahomed, subjected themselves, though not willingly, to the govern- ment of Shah Shooja, who was now established as the King of Affghanistan. He was not appre- ciated, as his manners and morals were not such as would create for him the love of the people. The Tribes of the lower countiy were not so peaceable, being jealous of the settled manner which the troops, in possession of Candahar, Ghuznee, Kelat, &c., seemed to be in ; they, amongst themselves, commenced hostilities, which were disposed of in 816 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. the manner I have detailed, by General Nott and others. The Envoy at Cabool was joined by Major Pottinger, who seemed to think an attack was likely soon to occur, and he intimated his apprehen- sion to the authorities. The troops by this time were all comfortably housed ; every accommodation was made for their better protection and pleasure. Sale and his Brigade were sent to Jcllalabad to winter ; arrangements were made for the general establishing of au European station, witk all its necessary departmental completions. Mahomed Akbar Khan, the eldest son of the ex-ruler, had imbibed the bitterest animosity against the British, since the dethronement of his father, who, several times, endeavoured to persuade him, too, to surrender, but as often failed. In the vici- nity of Cabool, particularly near the spot where the cantonments were erected, were several forts for- merly belonging to the chiefs, some of which were now occupied by our officers, and others used as stores ; one, very unwisely, about a mile from the canton- ment, was the Commissariat ; another for the Ord- nance, and so forth. About the middle of October, great symptoms appeared of the fulfilment of the prognostications of Major Pottinger, and the whole of the Ghylgees seemed to have risen in one body against us ; their head Chief, Humza Khan, was detected in several acts of treachery, and was, by the Shah, placed in confinementr The Affghans, spite of their apparent allegiance to the Shah, had SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 317 *^ott aiid i)y Major ack was pprehen- his time tiodation pleasure, labad to general k all its ti of the ' against s father, ide him, the vici- here the orts for- i^erenow i stores ; canton- the Ord- October, it of the le whole ne body an, was was, by ffghans, lah, had ever evinced an utter dislike to the Europeans, and took every opportunity they could of v uU- ing them, and in many instances abusing them ; attempts at assassination, in more than one instance, were brought to the notice of the Envoy ; the murder of Europeans and a number of followers, arising from an ardent disposition for rebellion, accrued; and from this, ( fuplcd with the extensive rumours of the brewing conspiracy amongst the Chiefs, left us to presume matters did not bear the slightest prospect of a lasting peace. The fact was, that there did not exist in the whole of Affghanistan, Upper or Lower Scindc, or Beclochistan, one real friend towards us, and it very soon became too clear to be doubted. Ameenoola Khan, the chief of Logur, had for some time been appointed to take charge of the traitor, Humza Khan, and was considered as one of our greatest friends ; but alike with the whole na- tion, he was grounded in deceit and treachery, and ultimately became a bitter foe. He was supported by an 'her chief, Abdoolah Khan Acbukzee, who held a greater portion of the Pesheen Valley; the latter chief, although a professing friend, could never be depended on, from the fact of his having strangled his brother, in order to get his turban or territory; but being both men of the strongest influence, from riches and power, aided by their hatred to the Feringees, they were soon able to win over to their views, the majority of the population. .. „ . mawipw uMWi 318 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. Ml i The first evident cause of the outhreak, was the fact of a letter addressed by this Abdoolah, to the chief and people, intimatinji; that it was in contem- plation by the Shall, and our Envoys, to secure all the chiefs, and send thcui prisoners to the Presiden- cies ; they accordiii;,dy met that nij^ht, and in order to carry out their designs, made it appear that the King was privately on their side, and was anxious that all the iiilidels should be put to death. Sir William M'Naughten now began to open his eyes, and made a requisition for a stronger force to be sent to Cubool, which, however, never arrived. At the beginning of November, things bore a more determined appearance ; the people were seen to collect in large bodies ; the shops in the bazaars were principally closed ; the residences of several of our officers had been attacked ; soldiers were molested and struck ; the tumult was fast raging. The Ambassador, Sir Alexander Burnes, who resi- ded in the cantonments, received an intimation of the outbreak ; but he doubted not, but that it was some mistaken grievance, and that he would be soon able to set all right. Nay, the baronet was 80 fully confident in his own mind, that his influence over the people was such as to quell any insurrec- tion, that he considered it unnecessary even to make the thing known to the king, and would not even allow a shot to be fired by his guard, although they had been, and were, subjected to the indignatioa and assaults of the assembled mobs. SCENES IN A SOLDIEP/S LIFE. 319 was tho I, to the contem- curc all residen- in order that the anxious til. Sir lis eyes, :e to be arrived, bore a ^Te seen bazaars several rs were raging, ho resi- ation of t it was ould be net was nfluence Qsurrec- to make ot even gh they Lguation Sir Alexander had a faithful servant in the per- son of his wareer, or secrctarj , though, in common with others, an inward foe, who tried in vain to persuade the Ambassador to take measures to dis- lodge the frantic insurgents. I must certainly say that a man placed, as Sir Alexander was, in a posi- tion approximating in power to the king himself, was much in fault at even harboring an opinion of security, or a certainty of command over a national tumult, whose minute sentiments could only be truly known to tliosc necessarily more acquainted with their characters, and it would have far more become him to have lent his ear to the various warnings given him by many inlluental, as well as mere menial individuals. But he had, up to that moment, been apparently much prized by the chiefs and the people, and had ever been treated as an Ambassador; and in no one instance had he ever been thwarted in his undertakings, since his attach- ment to the court. The friends and power he vainly boasted, became darkened, and the white became black ; his most devoted attacMs became, perforce, his enemies, and he at length found, when it was too late, that it was time to negociate, but was not permitted the opportunity of doing so ; for the infatuated mob increased, and resolved on bloodshed ; they became more enraged, and com- menced an attack on the Ambassador's residence, and on all the adjoining premises ; and the whole resulted in the massacr« of Sir Alexander, his 320 SCENES IN A soldier's LITE. brother, Lieutenant Barnes, also Lieutenant Broad^ foot, and every man, woman^ and child, in and near the place. Thus were the lives of three pro- mising men lost to the world; one on whom the representation of our crown had devolved, but who, I regret to say, was too much buoyed up with the fair faces of a treacherous race. Let me not for a moment be suspected of wishing to throw the slightest disparagement on the character of Sir Alexander ! But the unfortunate occurrence which resulted in so much loss of life of our countrymen, ought to have been in some measure known to the functionaries. There cannot exist a nation without its customs and characteristics, which must tend to more or less develope their dis- position; and it is lo be presumed that those placed in such responsible positions should be next to in- fallible in their knowledge of these essential points ; but alas ! we are all prone to err, and error oftimes is discovered too late for remedy. The king, on learning the fate of Sir Alexander, became seriously alarmed, and more so when he found the rioters increase, and although he sent one of his sons, with a force, to restore the peace of his people, it was found useless. Sir W. M'Naughten, seeing the dan- gerous position of affairs, considered that matters would speedily be brought to a crisis, and that order would again be restored ; but finding that it was stiii raging, he waited upon the General, and Brigadier Shelton was sent to take charge of the SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 321 Bala Hissar, with directions, if necessary, to firo on the hostile parties, if they persisted in their obstinacy. Captain Lawrence, the military secre- tary, was attacked, and had a narrow escape, on his road to meet the king, and informed him of the enemy's coming to enter into arrangements. The king was in a state of great excitement, having seen himself several of the outrages of the enemy, from the palace. On the arrival of Sir William, a durbar was held, and Lieutenant Sturt* was proceeding to join it, when he was attacked, and most brutally stabbed in the neck, and went to the palace bleeding and almost lixinting ; every hour of this day brought forth new instances of their determination. Assas- sinations, plunder, and general tumult reigned in every direction. As I said before, Sir William M^Naughten at first, made light of the attack, and it would of course be presumed he knew what was best to be done. But the fact of the murder of Sir A. Burnes, having arisen from the same scource, what was next to be expected ? Nothing but des- truction. The Commanding Officer, General Elphinstone, was indeed a good, brave, and no doubt an enter- ' prising soldier ; but nature seems to have endowed him with a bump of self-confidence ; deep concep- tion appeared to have either never existed in him, .^«a ./^*^-A «««/~k1 w Ir\4v4> Vkll 1,.. ■WTTrt et j^nati'WT f\ /§ wr-^ Lt r\ £^ ««*%^ VI cxiiiiCij' icii> 1111X1 ^ uu Tvao caoiij au.rii3uu^ auu * Son-in-law of Lady Sale. 322 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. would listen to almost any project ; this may be attributed in a great measure, to age and infirmity, for he had long before expressed his inability, from the state of his health, to command so serious an expedition, as that now in Central Asia. No one can question his bravery, for none ever saw Elphinstone away from the most dangerous point, when called on to command ; but his health had now become much impaired, and the second in command did not better his condition, and thus were the Troops situated; and it now began to show itself too clearly, that the nation at large had risen in rebellion against us. I have already mentioned that the principal departments, such as the Commissariat, were detached from the cantonments, a circum- stance, and an error, for which I can see no possi- ble grounds for excuse ; take away a man's bread, and deprive him of the means of getting more, and you at once settle the job ; this matter, I learned from several, had been often brought to the consideration of those concerned ; but it appeared that all the responsible individuals, in whom rested the safety .of the whole force, seemed big with self-confidence of their powerful influence, and certainty of tranquillity. The road from the Commissariat was commanded by a small fort, formerly belonging to Mahomed Shereave, and where a strong guard was placed ; it was attacked, and the enemy gained possession of it. and at once cut off all communication between the Commissariat fort and the cantonments. See- SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. 323 nay be firmity, y, from ious an one can linstone I called become (lid not Troops clearly, sbellion lat the ssariat, circum- [) possi- bread, re, and ed from eration all flic safety [ence of [uillity. nanded diomed ced ; it ssion of etween . See- ing this, a force of Sepoys, and a detachment of the 44th, under Lieut. Warren, were sent to re-take the fort, which was of the utmost importance, but were repulsed, and with a severe loss. Finding it impos- sible to rescue it, the General very injudiciously gave directions for giving it up; but he was entreated to forbear, as the only resource they had for supplies was from thence ; the natives brought none in, and there was little more than two or three days provisions in the cantonment, upon which he countermanded his order, and sent word for Warren to hold out. " It was now rumoured that the enemy were* mining, and purposed blowing up the Bala Hisar. Matters began to wear a terrible feature, thou- sands were collecting in every direction, attack came after attack, and we were losing consi- derable numbers; the necessity was again urged of making an assault, and taking Mahomed Shereave's fort by storm ; but the General, unwilling to expose his Troops, could not be brought to give his consent. Hour after hour rolled on, and each hour brought with it worse news ; at length the General was prevailed on to permit the storm, and what was the awful intelligence next learned? — that Warren was seen going to the cantonments, having evacuated the Commissariat fort. And the only reason he gave was, because he, in vain, waited for fl. rp.inforr luent. and finding none came, he expected the enemy woidd r\|sh in and massacre 324 SCENES IN A SOLDIERV LIFE. his party. All seemed now to be irrecoverably lost. Brigsdicr Antiquel's fort was attacked, and, though nobly defended, met with the general dis- aster. The miserable prospects of the cantonment, as regarded provisions, were now fast increasing, and it was determined to take the fort, and repos- sess the provision stores ; and accordingly active measures were adopted, but alike without success. The Envoy in vain offered extortionate prices to the more tranquil villagers to bring in supplies, but few indeed dared or would. The General now became so far unable, from ill-health, to command under such trying circumstances, that it was indis- pensably necessary to call on the next senior, who was Brigadier Shelton, and whose opinion of the matters is soon related. He had always in his own mind, considered it a matter of doubt, as to whether the Cabool force oould exist a winter there ; nay, so far was his opinion seen and felt, that the minds of the men began to despond. The Brigadier differed with the Envoy, the Envoy could not agree with the Briga- dier, and thus were they placed, and it was now no time for diversity of opinion; there were no tribunals to appeal to, no arbitrator could be called in, the affairs were now become so seriously alarming that the question arose. What was to be done ? In a very few words, the Brigadier's senti- ment resulted in preparing for a retreat — the very SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 325 name of which strikes awe in the feelings of a British heart, and bids fair to burst him with indignation. . Retreat 1 It cannot be. Who calling himself aBriton, would venture, unless upon the very brink of death, even to entertain the idea; aflfairs had not yet reached this crisis. The Envoy in vairi remonstrated, that Britain's honor, of which he was the representative, called upon them to hold the place ; the arguments adduced were useless. The General now became unfit for anything; and it V as at length decided that negociations should be entered into. It need hardly be stated, that the duties at the cantonment, were very harrassing— engagements came on in rapid succession; all was useless. Now we should gain a victory— now lose one ; the weather became cold and miserable ; the supplies were cut off, and there was nothing left, but if possible, to treat with the enemy, for protection to Peshawar. A despatch had been sent off some time before to General Sale, to march on Cabool to their assistance, but without effect, the winter having set in, and the roads through the passes being impassable ; all hopes from that quar- ter were lost ; and the Envoy could not entertain the thought of retreating. A very severe engage- ment took place, at which, I regret to say, our troops gave way. The panic seemed magical, and horror was depicted in every direction; 4V>^M/% x^r/wn acktra rol nf fVio inonrorpnf phipffi WOimded. which of course had a great effect. The Envoy, I ! 326 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. even if ncgociatioiis were decided upon, loieiV' not with whom to treat; and thus were the unfortnnnte Troops at Cabool situated. I will not attempt to olfer my private opinion of the individual at tlie head of the Government of Cabool. That errors (>( -.^K glaring magnitude were committed, is beyoj: *oubt ; that competency to command, and power was unwisely invested is most certain ; that there was a want of courage on the part of those who required most to have k, is too clear to leave the remotest question ; but that the subordinates had a lack of it, I cannot be brought to admit ; because, it is from experience I speak, and from the disposition of the army at large, that I have had opportunities of knowing — that I am convinced they could not, would not, act otherwise than as brave men. There may be circmustances, — circumstances of the most appalling nature, into which a man may be forced, in which from want of knowledge, or want of power, he may be compelle( to act contrary to his conscience, but not cowardly ; the situation of the troops at Cabool cannot be easily imagined, at least not sufficiently so, to enable those, ignorant of these peculiarities, to decide. If we detach, or dis- arrange the main spring of the machine, it cannot work ; the heads of our departments were astray ; those possessed of power, knowledge, and determi- nail on •rarAvp f lixvar^o/l anrIf)1n1•onr•■n/1l•/^f n *«rto/>V» «!!•/>« o J ,. ..IV. via TT fli iv-M, t.tiil.1 l:x.l.\j itt&Xil^ VX O, wl U<X«^II^X VTUO foe is not easily cooled down ; therefore if blame SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 327 there is, let it not be cast on those who were mere instruments. The management rested with such, as proved by tlieir developed conduct, that Eng- land's honor was not of the most importance to them— who, after carefully perusing the suflferings of these wretched beings at Cabool, can, for^ a moment, blame them? when there exists a discip- line, kept together by the unremitting exertion^ of superior authority, their success is almost certain ; but if they, being but men, fail to fully bear out the required fortitude, and leave their neces- sary duties unperformed, the awaiting of which, carried with it the protection of personal exis- tence, what then remained to be done? Man, mind thyself! Oh! that those who would even venture an opinion, or would distinguish them- selves as feather-bed Generals, and form their plans in the drawing room, and seeing their own success, cannot look on the side where disaster reigns, or failure isprobable. May theyneverknow what difficulty is, or be found to relinquish what they vainly boast of— Britain's honor. Let him who has experienced the catastrophes of the battle plain— who has seen the intricacies of an enemy's country— who has shared the miseries cf treacheiy, and narrowly watched the difficulties of those in command and those engaged,— let him give his opinion, and he will say with me that in the breast of our army at large does not exist what has most unfeelingly, most unjustly, been implied to 328 SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. the Cabool force generally— dishonor, or want of courage. It was at length intimated to the Envoy, by the Chiefs, that nothing more was required than the entire evacuation of their country by the British, and requested a meeting, in order that arrange- ments might be satisfactorily entered into for the furtherance of the same. The first held for this purpose took place in the guard-room of the Bala Hissar, I believe, which, however, resulted in no very pleasant manner; and the Envoy, the same day, received a letter, proposing terms that were so insulting and dero- gatory to his expectations, that all hope of nego- ciation seemed at an end, for he had always enter- tained some idea of their honor, as regards their treaties. Matters began to be somewhat more settled, arising from the fact of the promised ar- rangements, till, finding nothing done, a desperate attempt was made to take the Palace, but without success. I had almost forgotten to say that Ma- homed Shereave's fort was re-taken by us during the storm, and now was garrisoned by the 44th and 37th Native Infantry, and consequently those at the cantonment lost no time in removing stores, &c.; but the fort was again lost, and the garrison retreated; and distress . appeared in every shape. The Envoy wrote the General as to what was to be done ; he, in strong terms, replies, that In their pre- sent situation, with so many sick and wounded men, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 329 their courage could not be relied on— provisions so scarce as to be barely sufficient for two days — cattle weak, weather cold, and an enraged enemy sur- rounding them,— directed that immediate terms might be entered into for their being safely con- ducted through the Passes to the British Frontier. In consequence of this, Sir William M^Naughten caused another meeting of the Chiefs and himself, to take place. The tenor of the requisition of the enemy was that we should leave Affghanistan, and that the evacuation of the cantonments should take place that night, but was ultimately agreed upon for three days ; during the interval, however, many of the most influential of the officers, who were most anxious for the safety of Britain's fame, and to make another effort for its realization, strongly urged the necessity of the troops occupying the Bala Hissar, but Brigadier Shelton held out the utter uselessness of such a measure. The Envoy, whose conduct during the whole of these proceedings, had demonstrated the strongest fortitude and ability, the disasters which were now become of reputed overwhelming difficulty, leaving him unsupported by those whose duty it was to aid him, left him, under these truly appalling difficulties, glad to make use of anything calculated to remove dishonor j the fact of there not being the remotest chance of procuring provisions, the Chiefs were bent upoik the destruction of the force, and suspicions had already risen that the Envoy's life was in danger. 330 SCENKS IN A SOLDI RUs LII^E. Previous to the removal of the troops from the the Palace, the l']nv()y received a letter from Mahomed Akbar, to tlie efrect that Shah Shooja raight remain as Kincr, on condition that lie would inter-marry his daughters with some of the Chiefs; that Mahomed Akbar should be ^Vuzeer or Prime Minister; that the troops might remain till the spring, and all war cease, and demanded an enor- mous sum of money by way of bonus. To this the Envoy, deeply considering the extremity of his affairs, left, as he was, as it were, on his own resources, seeing this faint glimmer of a prospect of rdscuing his country's fame, and give them time to make a more honorable evacuation, in a moment of frenzy, little suspecting the treachery carried with such a noble proposal, signed the document accepting, and agreed to a meeting for its rati- fication the following morning. Whatever may have been the feelings of the Envoy, when cau- tioned about the risk he ran, he declared that it were worth a hundred lives like his, at such a moment, to restore what was already on the brink of being sacrificed — his country's honor. The morning came, and the Envoy accompanied by Captains Trevor, Lawrence and M'Kenzie, and a small portion of his body guard, met the Chiefs, who were seated on a small hillock, and commenced the business of the meetinfr. It was a meeting buoyed up with the most arrant dissatisfaction; the officers who accompanied the SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 331 Knvoy up to the time of their starting for the rati- fication, had remained ij^iiorant of it, and observed that great numbers of armed rabble began to col- hct, and on Mahomed's attention being drawn to this fact, he replied, "They are all in the secret," and immediately directed some of tliem to " seize," and then the work began. The whole of the officers were secured and dragged to a small fort, and Mahomed personally attacked the Envoy, who, after a desperate struggle, was shot by Akbar, with a pistol that had but a short time before been pre- sented to the Chief, by Sir William. Thus was England deprived of the life and service of a learn- ed, noble, energetic, and amiable man, whose indefatigable exertions had ever been such as to stamp him with renown, and most honorable fame. It will be impossible for me to give my readers the more minute details, of the very inter- esting personal adventures, so numerous in this sad affair : it would be only extending my narrative, and in fact, would be beyond my power ; the most impartial and interesting account of these disasters, will be found in the book written by Lieutenant Eyre, who was one of those, whose lot was to be amongst them. The information I give, I gained from one attached to the Cabool mission, and other officers directly connected with the force ; of whose authority, I have every reason to be proud ; :! i 832 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. I shall, therefore, conclude this brief detail of those events, by summing up tlic retreat, and continue my own personal adventures, which passes over the ground where the unfortunates were so brutally massacred, and return to my story, in as agreea- ble a form as I can well arrange it. >f those )ntinue !s over irutally igreea- CHAPTER XVIII. The retreat; Fearful prospects; Entrance into the Passes; Treacherous attack; Awful position of the Troops; Situation of tho Force; Tho dastardly conduct of the Affghans; Akbar's message to tho Gonorul; Ladies and fiinjilies given up as Hos- tages; Elphinstono's death; Total annihilation of tho Cabool Force; Dr. Brydon's cscapo; Brief remarks; March to Istaliff; General McCaskill's Brigade arrived; The battle; Victory; Bravery of tho Troops; Fighting all over; Unfortunate death of Lieutenant Evans; His character; Return to Cabool; Safe return of tho prisoners — Ladies Sulo and McNaughten; A little child brought in; Destruction of Cabool; March through the Passes; Evacuation of Affghanistan; Awful sight in the Defiles; Iload strewed with Skeletons; Their appearance; Description of Route; Enemy hover about; Admirable precau- tions; The Soldier's life; Arrival atTezeen; Jngdulluk; Grand Attack; Samnauth Gates; Beautiful valley of Nirala; Jellalla- bad;- Its appearance and destruction. They were now compelled to commence their retreat, the king remaining behind. The chiefs had sent their families, during the affray, to IstalifF, and several of our officers, including Major Pottinger, had been detained as hostages. The road to the Koord Cabool Pass is an immense marsh, and leads into the mouth as into a cavern. The hills on each side, ere the troops had emerged, were manned *u/ the Affghans, who commenced a fierce attack 334 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. on the moving mass below. The poor fellows were in a sad condition— cold, hungry, and weary ; ninety-seven miles of a dreary Pass to traverse, opposed by a foe whose treachery had no end. The snow had already fallen, and much impeded their progress; the cattle that had long since become weak and impaired, were dying fast, and no sooner dead than they were snatched up and devoured; food being so scarce, and wood being equally so ; the llesh of horses, camels, or anything calculated to keep life up, was eaten raw; and tents or shelter for the night were strangers. The eye ev^ry now and then would rest on the dead and dying, who had become the victims of the matchlock from the heights. The ofliccrs would press forward occasionally, and form up in order of attack or defence, and would as soon be repelled. Energy, from sheer misery, grew weak, and at length dis- cipline began to fail — superiority lost its influence— and the force now became, to a considerable extent, a mob, each looking out for himself— and the first three days brought with it a most sorrowful loss. The troops were now much reduced, and the Pass, thus far, was strewed with the massacred bodies of our men. Akbar, who followed up in rear, saw the very pitiful condition of the wives and families, mothers and children, some but a few days old at the breast, heavy and weak, sick from fatigue and distress, want of succour and the necessary comfort for their sex — infants crying for SCENES Ili A soldier's LIFE. 335 food, and pnents unable to comply. The sufferings of these poor females called for immediate and the deepest sympathy. Akbar Khan sent into camp to the General, advising him to send the families to him and he would protect them, and afford them such comforts as were not otherwise procurable. The General, who, although he had had sufficient evidence of the deception of Akbar, was nevertheless inclined to think he might prove more generous, and as the raging of the insurgents was likely to be waged upon them, they, with their husbands, who could not be expected in such an hour of despair to part from those so dear to them as wives and olFspring, were sent to Akbar. The day after tlje Chief sent for the General to Lis camp, who, making over the temporary command to Brigadier Antequil, repaired thither, and, to draw the story up briefly, was detained, where, with sickness, remorse, mortification, and despair, he soon after- wards died. Day after day thinned the force, and the poor fellows would occasionally make a held stand, but get overpowered. After passing through the Tezcen, JugduUuk, and Soorkab Passes, and at the entrance to Giindamuck, the remnant of the 44th made their last stand— fought on till their ammu- nition was expended — and gave up only with the last struggle of life. Dr. Brydon, who, with three others, made a desnerate rush, got on the road towards Jqllalabad, which was about twenty-three 836 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. miles off Giindamiick. Not knowing the direct route, and eager to make the most of their time, three took another way, and were attacked and cut up. Brydon fortunately escaped to Sir R. Sale, at Jella- labad, to tell the tale of woe, he being the only one left alive — save those who were prisoners — out of about 4000 soldiers and 8000 followers. This was the end of the Cabcol force. Much has been illiberally said by the public jour- nals on this subject, who arc well able to connect words, and make long stories out of that which thep^ are ill calculated to judge. The affair, from first to last, was, it is admitted,, such as to stamp dis- credit on us, and those who could have done much towards its prevention, did not. Brigadier Shelton^ on the retreat, did most considerably retrieve his cha- racter by his conduct and bravery ; but when tlieblow was struck, it was high time to rebel. He should have commenced two months before — should have stood by M'Naughtcn, and those officers who were far better able to know the state of things than himself. Had he done all this, the honor of Britain would not have been subjected to the disparaging remarks it has suffered in consequence ; and it is to be hoped that our Government has been taught such a lesson as will deter it from placing its fame — its ever-undoubted ftime — from being sullied from want of placing its safety in proper and worthy UttiiUO. J-iCl iiVl- liiv ivt5.vi.vx rj\.- iv-i-- vtiT.-»i^- ^..<..i...-. let him not be too hasty in judging the conduct of SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 337 our countrymen — but put the whole matter in the scales of Justice, and if there is sympathy to be given, let it be for those whose lives were sacrificed so inhumanly, so piteously; and let him reflect and picture to his mind's eye, the awfulness of the position, the trials and miseries, and placing himself in a sii.iilar catastrophe, he will greatly pity, rather than too severely blame, the unfortunate members of that force. Having now given a brief outline of the fea- tures of that part of the history, it remains for me to'proceed on our route. I said that the families of the most influential chiefs were sent to Istaliff, a fort some five days' march from Cabool, and as it was the wish to protect them ere we evacuated the country, a force was sent to olfer them our aid, and to destroy the place. A brigade from General Nott's force, in conjunction with one from Pollock's, — the former consisted of Her Majesty's 41st, the 42nd and 43rd Native Infantry, Blood's Battery and Christie's Horse— the latter, of , the 3rd Light Dragoons, Her Majesty's 9th, and several of the Bengal Native Infantry, under command- of Major General McCaskill. I accompanied the Commis- sariat, and on the arrival of the force we were met by a severe opposition. The General made an able attack, and after a severe battle of some hours, succeeded in capturing the fort ; the enemy who had held nossession, ultimatelv evacuated it, 'ihe families wen leavinj power. ery w 338 SCENES IN A SOLDIEli'S LIFE. numercus, and the ladies seemed not much displeased at the offer of our protection. We lost but few men. The force commenced to plunder the place, and capr tared quantities of shawls, cattle, and grain; it being reported that some few females were in a small fort hard by, that amiable young officer, Lieut, Evans of the 41st, and myself, after all had been 8ettled,were proceeding thither, when an infatuated wretch from the wall of the place, fired a match- lock at us, and the shot lodged just over Evans' right breast. He struggled, and lingered a short time, and the poor young fellow, clasping me, attempted to 'speak, but could not, and expired most piteously, just at the eleventh hour, when all was considered safe. This young man had so far swung clear, although he had many times been exposed, and had narrowly escaped. He was a daring, amiable youth, was beloved by his men, and all who knew him looked upon him as one of the/ most promi- sing young officers ; his character was all that one could wish, and I believe no loss could be regret- ted more than that of young Evans. He was a dear and intimate friend of mine, and it was a long time after his death, before I could venture to even think of him without my heart filling with grief—so young, so noble, and so much beloved ! But I must, spite of all my friendship for him, say, that he was indiscreet, in consequence of that too much practised shew of bravery. He has often, much against the wishes of his friends, SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 389 exposed himself where danger most appeared, and it is indeed miraculous how he escaped so long. It would be far more than I am able to relate, the instances he has shown of this undue valour, therefore let me entreat those whose lot it is to be called on active service, to avoid that, and remember they are placed in command, and it is most essential that they should preserve themselves for the sake of those entrusted to their care.* The force returned, and all was now prepared for the march through the Passes. I visited the cantonments, and the various places, in which many of our unfortunate brethren had fallen, and numerous were the unburied frames lying there. In the compound or yard of the house where Sir A. Burns was killed, I discovered a well, in which were the skeletons of four men ; one of these had still the hair on the head, and was supposed to be that of Burns. We buried them in the yard. The Bala Hissar was undermined, and a train laid, ready for explosion. There was, and had been, since the commencement, strict orders against plundering ; but the followers heeded it not, and the city of Cabool soon presented a sorry sight ; and in many places was set on fire, and it was not discontinued until a strong guard was sent from camp, to arrest such conduc;, and then too late. ♦ A most noble act stands recorded in the life of this young <non in rovflnffiner the murder of a Mrs. Smith, in the Bolan Pass, who was proceeding to join her husband, Mr. Conductor Sihith, of the Commissariat Department. 840 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. The Brigade which was sent to the assistance of Lieutenant Sliakespeare, now came in, escorting our long-looked for prisoners ; and it is impossible to describe the scene, as they passed through the different camps ; the shouts of welcome, the echoes of the artillery, pealing forth their salutes of joy ; and lia})pincss seemed once more to reign in the sun-burnt countenances of the released captives ; they wore the Affghan costume, and the men, many of them, had longbeards ; they were soon surrounded with their friends, from whom they had been so long parted ; and it may be easily imagined the sight was one satisfactory to all parties. Captain Bygrave, whowas the only one remaining unrecovered, was with Akbar, who finding the remainder had been rescued, sent him into camp with two chiefs, considering it no triumph to retain one. A few days after this, an Affghan brought into camp a young European child, which I immediately recognised as belonging to a soldier's wife, of the 13th Light Infantry, who was killed; the child was remarkably clean, and seemed to have been well treated, and was much attached to the native ; it was dressed as other Affghan children, and was painted on the forehead, with the sacred insignia of the priest ; the child was restored to the Regiment, and taken by a woman who had been a prisoner, whose husband was killed. The father of this child, I believe, married this person, as being the relics of two families, whose halves had been so SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 341 ance of corting lossibic gh the eclioos of joy ; in the ptives ; I, many ounded een so led the [laining ng the tip with in one. ht into idiatcly , of the 3 child e been native ; id was ignia of ^iment, 'isoner, of this ing the )een so barbarously destroyed; and thus the child got another home. Plundering, spite of all the efforts of the troops, was carried to an enormous extent. Every preparation was now completed for our march, and on the 12th of October, 1842, our force, divided into three brigades, left Cabool, the first under General Pollock, the second under General McCaskill, and the rear under General Nott. We had not proceeded more than four miles, when we heard the explosion of the mines, which left the renowned Cabool a vast region of ruins ; and the Affghans to judge the spirit of the BriMsh, as an avenging one. Cabool, as a city, was most beautifully situated, producing every delicacy man could require ; its surrounding country is exceed- ingly mountainous, many of which were capped with snow. The city lies under the Hindoo Koosh, and is bordered on the one side by the Himaylee, and the rivers Attock and Rozee ; the people were robust and healthy; their manners amount to inso- lence and cruelty; they are continually at war with each other ; and are divided into tribes. Trade seemed to have abounded greatly, and the country generally in a flourishing state ; the cities of Cabool, Ghuznee, and Candahar, are the principal ones of Affghanistan; the Persians form a considerable «*portion of those inhabiting Cabool, and the traffic with that country is somewhat extensive. The divisions made a general move, at daybreak, on the 12th of October, to Thag Bakh, about six 342 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. m i\ miles distant from Cabool ; and on the entrance to the Koord Cabool Pass, Her Majesty's 9th and 13th Regiments, together with six Native Corps of the 1st Division, manned the hills commanding the pass, to enable those in the valley below to move on unmolested. On the morning of the 13th the troops entered the Pass which led to Tezeen, about nine miles. The mountains were high and craggy, and very dark, rendering the road extremely gloo- my aind sad ; a torrent ran in a serpentine direction from side to side, which reminded mc of the Bolun ; it had to be crossed twenty-eight times during about six miles. We had scarcely got well into the jaws of the awful scene of romantic vastness, whose hollow crags seemed to echo defiance to our intruding tread, when a number of the enemy made their appearance in the rear, butw^ere kept in check. The very great height of the mountains, of a dark, reddish colour, struck one with awe, and silence seemed to reign over all ; the mind was totally occupied in contemplating this fearful sight of hid- den deeds ; horror struck the feeling heart when the eye fell on the skeletons of our departed comrades, who lay in most agonizing positions, indicative of their last struggle for life. Here a spot would be strewed with a few crouched up in a corner, where they had evidently fled to cover themselves by* some detached rock, from the overpowering cruelty of their foe. and had been riveted bv death. There couples were lying who had died in each unce to id 13tli of the ng the move 3th the , ahout craggy, y gloo- irection Bolun ; during ell into istness, 5 to our y made 1 check, a dark, silence totally of hid- hen the mrades, ative of ould he , where Ives by* cruelty death. in each SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 343 others arms, locked as it were in the last embrace of despair ; numbers lay in every direction, devoid of every particle of clothes ; some with the greater part of the flesh putrified on their bleaching bones- others were clean from having been devoured by the vast number of carrion birds and beasts inhabii- ing these terrible regions. I at first attempted to count the number of frames as I went along, but found them so numerous that I could not find time, and my inclination sickened from the awfulness of the scene. The Pass was not more than thirty feet wide at this part, and so numerous were the moulder- ing frames of those whose lives had been sacrificed during the last wixiter, that they literally covered the road— and, in consequence, the artillery and other wheeled carriages had to pass over them— and it was indeed horrible to hear the wheels crack- ing the bones of our unburied comrades. It was quite easy to discover the Europeans by the hair on the skulls, which still remained fresh. After a tedious, and indeed a painful march, we reached Tezeen, which opens from the narrow Pass into a much wider part, sufficient to enable us to pitch our camp. Here was a sad scene of recent strife- scarce a tent could be pitched but a skeleton or two had to be removed, just kicked aside as though it were a stump of a tree, in order to leave clear the place for the interior of the tent, and there remained unnoticed. It has often been a subject of deep re- flection to me, to think how utterly reckless mau 1) 344 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. can be made by habit : so used were we to these siglits, that it became a Diere commoiiphico matter to see such relics of devastation and massacre. I remember walking with a friend down the centre of the camp, and we had often to stride over skeletons, without the least observation, further than I could not help heaving a sigh, and reflecting in silence on their unfortunate end. The next day took us thirteen miles on a road of extreme barrenness ; the high, wild, rugged moun- tains, hemmed in the narrow defile ; the skeletons of the massacred force still strewed the road in every direction ; no signs of vegetation, or aught to relieve the eye from wildness — the numerous hol- low crags, as we passed, seemed to ring with echo- ing despair, and afforded most formidable positions for the treacherous Affghan to usu his jezail or matchlock, without fear of opposition. The enemy, finding we had now entered the Pass, hovered about, and succeeded in murdering an officer, and a few men of Pollock's force. The divisions marched one day a-liead of each other, and thus kept up a continual line of communication. I, with General Nott's, arrived at this ground on the 14th ; the road was equally extremely harrassing the next day, as indeed, ever since our entrance into the Pass. The ascents and descents are so numerous, coupled with having to cross the water so often, and there being no hold for the kctj on the loos- flinty stones, made It very trying for both man and beast. SCENES IN A SOLDIEH'S LIFE. 845 Upwards of twenty times had the gushing torrent, dashing from side to side of the valley, to be waded through, and numbers of bleacliing frames of the victims of Akbar's treachery, lay exposed in the midst of the rolling stream. In one part of this day's march, was some fifty yards, crowded with dead bodies, of men, horses, and camels, which were those of a troop of irregular cavalry, who were all cut up on this spot. About a mile from Sah Baba, our next ground, stands a round tower, the ruins of an old fort ; it was now used as a bone house, and was crammed to the ceiling, with skulls, legs, arms, and shattered frames, and numbers were heaped outside the door, and round it,— placed there by the enemy, to form a glaring spectacle of their bitter revenge. A large body of Atlghans were now seen covering the hills in our rear, and opened a fire into the dreary abyss, on our rear guards and bag- gage, as they passed. The column had moved on some few miles, but were halted, and those of our troops in possession of the heights, commenced an attack, and succeeded in repelling them, and forc- ing them to retreat, and we reached camp with lit- tle^loss. This place is said to be the burial place of Lamech, the father of Noah, and if we may judge from its wild, dreary, stony, barren appearance, which looked as if it had been washed up into a heap after the deluge, and so void of all chances of ferti- lity, that one could scarcely doubt the tradition— but thus it is. f 346 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. Our next day led on to Knttca San^, and of all the roads I had ever seen or^travcrsed, as yet, this was the worst. The route led from liill to hill, the ascents being dilTicuU and stony, and the descents, in addition, being very dangerous, as a fearful preci- pice presented itself, should you happen to fall. These unwclconio views were many in number, and coupled with the tedious progress of the cattle and baggage, and the dilTiculty experienced in dragging the guns and loads, up these many steep hills, and nothing but a dreary road to travel onward, made the march bad indeed. After the main body reached camp, the rear guard was attacked; a rein- forcement was despatched, and a smart skirmish ensued ; the Aflghans seemed to delight in annoy- ing us, and from their hidden positions most peremptorily carried their plan into elTect ; we lost few men, compared with them, and the whole reached camp about midnight. Still the poor soldier found misery destined for him in every direction. On arriving at a new ground, two regiments had to mount duty on the summits of the hills bordering the route, which had to be ascended after the day's harassing march, thus forming a second, much more so. The scanty, coarse meal, being nothing more than a quantity of meat and broth, made from an allowance of a scarcely lifeless carcase, of the hard driven, skeletonized bullock,* and this oftimes * Our cattle, strayinjv about in search of food cams across a herb, which proved poisonous, and we lost an immense num- and SCENES IN A soldier's LTFE. 347 not prepared before the dead hour of night ; and then carried up to the men cokl and tasteless. The bread or cake made of coarse, liand-gronnd flour, full oi grit and small straw, half baked, and calculated to produce disease by its use ; and ere this was well eaten, the rouse would sound, and the weary instrument of Britain's safety, would be wending his way through the dreary and unknown regions, 'mid almost perpendicular rocks, and perilous tracks. Such was the- road of the next day's march, to Jugdulluk Pass ; this is by no means the most dif- ficult one to explore— the sides not being near so high as those already traversed ; it had some ap- pearance of fertility, being studded with many small bushes. There were innumerable small caves, or recesses in the rocks, and it was from those dark dens, forming cover for the enemy, that they succeeded so well in cutting ofT our unfortunate brethren, whose skeletons here were very numerously strewed about the path, and thus rendered the Pass more horrible than it would have been ; for the light shone brighter here than we had it for some time. Nay, so stupen- dous were the mountains, hemming the ravines we had passed, that it would be often far advanced in the day, before the sun would be seen by those beneath. The unfortunate 44tli made a somewhat successful ber of camels in consequence, which was a loss irreparable, as others could not be procured, and the result was the destruction of nnantities of Dublic and private baggage, to enable us to movo i I on. 348 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. siand in the Ju^dulluk Pass, and succeeded, ere they were overpowered, in slaying many of their foes. The pass was narrow, and the Atff?hans, who had preceded us some hours, with a view to intercept and bailie us, had formed breastworks across the road ; and, would it be bulicvcd, that these breast- works were formed of skeletons of our own men and horses ? Not less than one hundred frames could have been here piled up, which had to be removed before wc could pass oh. About six hundred of the enemy made their appearance here, and in the first onset did considerable dama<^e,— but a detach- ment from the main body soon dislodged them, and put them to the route ; it was common to see lying on the road, bodies of nmrdered Sepoys and couriers, and in fact to attempt to enumerate the acts of treachery practised on us, would be next to impos- sible. We at length reached Soorkab. At this ground, was a cluster of fine tall trees, which reliev- ed the eye, and led us to hope we were approaching a land of the living ; the camp was bordered by the celebrated Red Kivcr, a most beautiful crystal stream, rolling most musically over a stony bottom, and under the ridge of an immense mountain ; the continued buzz kept up by the murmuring torrent echoing from the fearful crags, lulled the weary tra- vellers in camp to sleep. Across this river is a most splendid bridge, of one gigantic arch, which led bv a declivitous route from this Pnss *« nnnflmr • on the right of this bridge, which was erected by il SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 349 tra- Alexander, issued a cataract roaring and dashing from the hills, which fed the stream, and formed a most beautiful picture. It was on this bridge that a number of the 44th— from the extreme inclemency of the weather, and the bitterness of the frost, were so benumbed with cold, that they were unable to use their arms when attacked on their retreat. Oh! when reflection is but called up, and the miserable condition of these poor, oppressed crea- tures, considered ; it cannot l)ut call forth a sigh of deep regret— bereft of evcrv chance of escape, or wherewithal to exist— as they were. When we con- sider that some of our nearest and dearest relatives or friends were amongst the number — surely, if there is one spark of sympathy left, it will be kindled for those whose last struggle was for their country's cause. Our next route led across the bridge through the defde already described, and on the road were lying the bodies of two murdered Sepoys. The ascents and descents were as usual; and from the summit of these intersecting hills, the eye would carry itself upon range after range of never-ending cliffs and walls of mountains ; the dark aspect of the distant hori- zon carried with it a volume of thoughts, wondering when the back would be once more turned on such dreariness. The moving mass below would be seen winding its serpentine length along the Pass, which, from its narrowness, being obstructed by huge masses of detached rock having fallen from the 350 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. heights, and impassable by other than taking a cir- cuitous route, were truly harrassing to the men and cattle. I may as well here mention the great trials and difficulties experienced in dragging along the heavy portions of the baggage, more particularly the celebrated Somnauth gates, which it will doubt- less be remembered, were taken by direction of the Governor General, from the tomb of Sultan Ma- homed at Ghuznee. These gates, it will doubtless also be remembered, were the idolatrous trophy of the Hindoos in the Guzerat Peninsula. The Geperal directed a guard of not less than the wing of a regiment to mount over these gates, which w^re placed upon two platform carts, and drawn by six bullocks each. The other castes of the native Sepoys would not go near them, and the Hindoos were comparatively few, and insufficient to perform the duty, and as these gates were to be taken to the provinces for the purpose of being restored to that race ; so great was the care taken of them that they were placed next to the main body of the army on the march, and nothing was permitted to go before them. The consequence was, that oftentimes, owing to the bullocks growing stubborn, the whole in the rear have been delayed ; and the gates have had to be dragged by fatigue parties of the Euro- peans — ^night has set in — the enemy have taken advantage of our position, and have succeeded in otif finff nff numbers who otherwise would have been safe in camp. The badness of the roads and dark- SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 351 ness of the night, together with the incessant fatigue and consequent loss occasioned by the protection of these idolatrous baubles, have caused much well- grounded controversy, and involved much discredit on the authorities. Many are the lives which have been lost by this— and for what ? to restore to a tribe of idolators, an idol, that they might worship with the greater vehemence, as they had been re- captured for them ; and all this, too, by the repre- sentative of a Christian people. I need say nothing farther, except that, owing to the great question raised relative to their restoration, in our Parlia- ment in 1843 and 1844, and since the recall of Lord Ellenborough, they remain like so much lumber stored in oiie of the stations in Bengal.* But to proceed to the march. A short distance from our camp, which was Gundamuck, stands a small hill, where the remnant of the 44th Regi- ment, about three hundred, made their last stand, and fought most desperately whilst their ammu- nition lasted, and were at length annihilated: their skeletons strewed the hill sides and summit ; about two hundred and fifty soldiers, and upwards of thirty ofiBcers, I believe, fell on this hill, and a de- plorable sight it presented. We soon reached camp, where Generals Pollock and M'Caskill had halted ; this place had been formed into a d^jpdt for grain and forage (only chopped straw), on Pollock's advance on Cabool ; the Passes from Peshawur, as * I believe at Agra. ' 352 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE^ he passed through, Uad been kept by our troops ; thus in a great measure securing our route. Wc now refreshed ourselves with a day's rest, and our cattle with a feast of forage, such as it was ; and also in comparative conlldencc, as we were now but a couple of days' stage from Jellalabad. The mails from Europe for tlic army were despatched from Calcutta and met us at this place, so that all in all it was quite a day of pleasure, receiving news from that dear place, Home—" which never was so sweetly felt as in such times as these"— conjunc- tion of the Divisions, and recognition of old com- rades who had escaped the perils of the few past days, and such like,— made the whole feel refreshed, and filled us with the utmost cheerfulness. Nott's Division halted a day as they came up last ; the other two moved on on the 20th, and we recommenced our march on the 21st. This day gave us a very long march, and greatly harrassed our cattle, which, having been so long without green forage, were weak ; the carcasses of camels strewed the road in immense numbers— and this was not the worst ; the consequence of the loss of the cattle was followed by the loss of comfort, little as it was, for if a camel should, from fatigue or stubbornness, refuse to go further, the rear guard had to shoot the beast and burn its load, lest it should fall into the hands of the hovering foe. Thus were clothes, 1-1. ^ -.^,,;»^n/vrt ^rn on/1 pvprv tins- tents, ueaamg, camp cquipaj^v., ^^. «— r - sible commodity of a campaign, destroyed ; and tlie BQENES IN A SOLDIER'S UPE. 353 party whose all happened to be on the beast so destroyed, had to share with those more fortunate.- So numerous were these' calamities, that some Regiments, who, according to regulations, should have had seventy tents, had not one-tenth the num- ber. And equally great was the loss of private pro- perty : many of the men nothaving a change of linen, were forced on arrival in camp to go to the stream and wash their shirt, &c ., and, whilst it dried, bathe themselves. To attempt to describe the very many losses met by the poor soldier, as well as the more affluent, would be almost incredible. The road on this day was such as to create a vast number of casualties, and the great quantity of carcasses that were strewed as we came up, proved that the Divisions in front had suflfered much more than our- selves. We at length reached Futteeabad, and the rain came on, the misery of which may be more easily imagined than described. Our next day was over somewhat better ground to Sultanpore, and passed through the most beau- tiful valley of Nimla, looked upon by the Affghans as a perfect paradise, and certainly it deserves the name— it was not unlike the Lake Harron, on the Indus— and the fragrance from its variegated spots of, flowers, reminded one of a visit to the Alps, where in the most unlooked-for places, in the most unexpected patches of the earth, bud forth groBpa of lovely flowers, too numerous to detail. A clear spiing margins these odoriferous patches, and 354 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFB. I the wind gently bending their proud and beautifnl heads, carries with it the most delightful sweetness. The surrounding ban-en mountains seemed here to add to its magnificeuce, and would in fact a^ect one's heart when coming in contact, in the midst of such wildness, with such little beauteous glittering gems of beneficent nature. Passing onwards, we soon reached our encampment, which was on a wide part of the region, and on a sandy plain. Nothing of note occurred here except that the rain fell, with its attendant miseries, and we next day moved on towards the Illustrious Garrison of Jei- lalabad, where we arrived at eleven, A. M,, on the 23rd, after marching over a dreadful road for upwards of twenty miles. The whole of the Troops halted here, and all soon became hurry and bustle for the destruction of the Fortress, which had sheltered General Sale's Brigade in the early part of the year, when besieged by Akbar Khan, whom they so successfully defeated on the 7th of April, 1842. Who of the Force that knows of its trials could be at Jellalabad and not deplore the loss of poor Colo- nel Dennie, whose unremitting bravery and zeal, for his country, was so little known, owing to a slight ditFerence which existed betwixt him and the then Commander-in-Chief, Sir John Keane; bis services were left almost neutral. It was here that poor Dennie fell, and a br^v sr soldier or a more d^^ierving man never took t\ie field.* Tte Rev. Mr. Gleig, has ju3t issued a really excellent account SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 355 Jellalabad is a rude looking place, as far as vicinity goes— yet it is, nevertheless, a fortress of a very formidable appearance, and has been for many ages used ns a winter residence for the rulers of Cabool. It is situated between the Khiva and the Jugdulluk Passes, and, as a valley, affords a most beautiful retreat, having all the beauties of i Jliza- tion, as well as most excellent water, proem ed from the Cabool river, flowing near the Town. There are some fine tall trees near the fortress, and in the vicinity of the Khiva, are several splendid castles and strongholds ; many of them erected under Alexander the Great. This spot was selected by the Monarchs of Cabool, as a retreat for winter, perhaps for its retirement, and salubrity of climate. But be it as it may, to one of common judgment, the idea would be absurd, as in a valley amid high ranges of mountains, it had precisely the opposite effect in winter, as it necessarily created dampness, and became dangerous to the constitution. The fort was square, built after the manner of Can- dahar, and h ,d, as is usual with the eastern places of royal refuge, its Citadel and Bala Hissar ; it was at this place that Sir Robert Sale gained so much honor, in keeping off the enemy, who took every opportunity of harrassing and annoying the of the affairs at this place, and being so recently compiled, ia doubaessthe best yet written, and is called "Sale's Brigade.". . . I . »» J TT ,1 r'^i^v,;^! T.5K»«nrtr anil wnrthv ana issaea m uxurray s xiuuiu auu Vuxvxiiwi .r.^.v..«^j ^ erf perasal. Bm 350 SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE. Feringees. He took this place at a timi when his provisions were not over plentiful, and h ving pos- session, became the target for Akbar .Chan and his colleagues, who, after repeated attacks and attempts at siege, made a grand essay on the 7th of April, 1842, and was completely overthrown by Sale's Brigade, on which occasion poor Dcnnie fell. This place, as well as Candahar, was cdered by Elphinstone to be evacuated, but fortunate ty for the force it was not, or they must most assuredly have met the same fate as the 44th, and the service would have been deprived of another most noble, valiant, and praiseworthy corps, in the 13th Light Infantry. The deeds of greatness in the field, done by this excellent Regiment, have gained for it, most deser- vedly, an honorable name ; and who is there, who, seeing the corps, but will feel bound to acknow- ledge that they went through trials and privations, to such an extent as should ensure for them the good wishes, and friendly feelings of ever: Briton. I speak of this Regiment particularly, because they were so long on the campaigns, and opportunities came to enable them so often to be ; and as often were, successful, and never found wanting, which entitles them to these remarks. Nevertheless, all the other corps of Her Majesty's service were equally brave, and were equally zealous, and are equally entitled to the thanks of their country. •Tko oot^/1 In ftnin/lp uoip(\ lu a iHost excmDlarv manner ; a mere handful of men, not more than SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. •^57 700 in number, to stand undaunted before a foe of more thousands— the 41 st, in all their arduous undertakings, and excessive trials, from their first arrival in the country, through the dreadful cam- paign, in the Deccan AVar, the storming of Bhurt- poore, and its many attendant conflicts— from thence through the principal parts of India, to end their long services in a five years campaign in Scinde and Aff'ghanistan. Of the 40th too, so much has been said, and so much is known of the honor due to this brave corps, that it is needless to dwell upon it. It is, without exception, the most honorable one in the whole service, as it bears upon its colours, I believe, more engagements than any- other Regiment. But what of all this ? The soldier is trained as a child to look for hardship and pri- vation ; schooled to habits of destruction and war- fare, and all for the protection of his country. And yet, many of those for whom he risks his very life, and for whose safe keeping from the bon- dage of an oppressor, he suff'ers more than tongue can tell— are the first to treat him with absurd scorn. And I have seen and heard hundreds, who treat soldiers with a sort of contempt, are ashamed of their company, and often express an opinion that they are not fit society to keep, being a mix- ture of so many classes. Oh ! shame !— it is not the coat which makes the L.dn. There are those, whose erroneous ideas of peace, who, in the hour of need almost worship the soldier ; and such like 858 SCENES IN A SOLDIER S LIFE. ought to be the last to disclaim their friendship; T;' f I .> declared and danger's iiigli, ^ "God UTid the soldierl" is the people's cry ; But when war's done, and all things righted, God's forgot ; — and the soldier's slighted. This I presume will ;>, : vvj all I could wish to say on the subject of the soldier's situation, and I trust the time will arrive, wiien the great, gross, and unbrotherly barrier, which has so long existed against the army,* will be removed, and that the 8ol|iier will be acknowledged to be, what he really Is, his country's friend. But to the march. It was intended, ere Jellalabad was evacuated, that it should be left in ruins ; the Sappers were consequently employed in preparing mines ; large quantities of stores were destroyed, for want of carriage, and every facility used for expe- diting the progress of the troops through the Khiva Pass. Day after day was occupied in making these arrangements, which, being completed, an advance was sent on to Dhakkah, the entrance to the Pass, to act in conjunction with some of the troops of Shere Singh, the Maha Rajah of the Punjaub, who had held the Pass since Pollock forced it, in the early part of the previous season. On the first division moving off, they were attacked by a party of Aff- ghans, who had been watching for an opportunity to ine aumor is preparing u wont lu uu uaixcu, — i IJC iJ^.TifJ u it was, and the Army as it is.' s5eNEB in a SOT.DlEK^fl LIFE. 359 recommence harrassing us ; but a few 6-pounder8, and some spherical shot, soon caused them to make off, and let us pass in comparative quietude. The following day the 2nd division made a start, and the next, General Nott, in his usual style, brought up the rear, being the most honorable position, in a retir- ing army. CAHPTEll XIX. ifftroh through the Khiva Pass; Dhakkah; Destrnction of All Musjid; March to Jemrood ; Almost the last •hot wounds Lieut. Chamberlain; Favorable prospect; Arrival at Peshawar; Our backs turned to the moui, tains; General Avitabilc; March through the I'unjaub; Description of coun- try; rerozepor3; Triumphal arch; Lord Ellonborough's Array, 64,000 men; Conjunction of Troops; Christmas Day of 1842 j Bhere Singh; Grand parade; Imposing sight; The Durbar; Breaking up of tto Army; General Noit appointed Resident at the Court of the King of Oude; His parting address to his brethren inarms; The Troops separate. On our making this last shift, Jellalabad was left in ruins by the explosion of the mines alluded to, and a strong party of the enemy, finding their much prized sanctorum thus mutilated, made a stand for revenge, but with their usual ill-success. The rain fell during the night, which, saturating the tents so much, made it extremely difficult for cattle to carry them. The road also, owing to the rain, had became a complete swamp, and it was late ere we reached camp, which, being at the entrance to the Pass, was on rugged ground, and growing late, was difficult to pitch. The road for - .>..^1y% ^C Ai%-mTa rmrna avnaa(\\n(r\\r nipiiaanf. nP.ino^ a CUUpiC V/i viaja 7it»ij v.-5.--------is..^.^- £ y j3 level, and intersected with plantations, which, SCENES IN A S0LDIE1l*S LTFB. 361 though small, aflfordcd a comparatively good supply of forage for the distressed cattle ; also, lots of fire- wood, which was most valuable. The next day led for several miles across a very fine plain in a wide, part of the Khiva, when within a mile from Dhakkah, we were suddenly checked by a barrier in the shape of a very narrow defile, which caused the cattle, as they reached the spot, to crowd in the wide space. The inlet between two high hills, being not more than eight or ten feet wide, allowing only one camel to pass through at a time—the delay may be easily conceived. Dhakkah was a small village, with a noble-looking fort, built of mud, which contained an extensive supply of grain and forage, and which we soon took possession of, and having liberally distributed it, then destroyed the place. Our march for the next few days was through the heart of the Khiva ; the mountains of this Pass are those attached to the Hemaylee range, and are of immense height. They have also, erected on their summits and brows, forts of great strength, built principally of brick and red stone, and were mostly those constructed under Alexander. Their great strength, coupled with the powerful positions selected for them in this Pass, goes far to convey an idea of their extent, and almost impregnability. On the 3rd November, after a somewhat pleasant march, inasmuch as the rebels had kept their distance, we reached the foot of the fearful and dangerous ascent to All Musjid. The camp was pitched in Uue, owiDg m SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. to the pass being narrow, under cover of the mouji- tains. Ou the summit was a strong fortification c^f the nature before mcutioned. At day-break, on tlio morning of tlie 4th, the Iwigles sounded tlio rouse, and soon after com- naoncea the ascent. The road led up a winding path for about a mile, on a soniewliat open sandy space, wljen, suddenly, droves of cattle were collected, and were waiting for an opportu- nity to proceed. The mountains were high, and afforded no other road than a narrow ridge or shelf^ not more than nine feet wide, cut about mid- way up the craggy side ; presenting on the left, a dark high wall, and on the right, a fearfnl abyss of several hundred feet. The extreme diiliculty expe- fienced in moving this mass of cattle and the loliowers, was greatly enhanced by impediments arising on the road in advance ; such as the upset- ting of a bullock cart, or a stubborn camel; in fact, anything, however simple, would obstruct the path, and until that was removed, all in rear were impeded. Should the camel or bullock be too stubborn to resume the journey, delay was not permitted longer, than to shoot the cattle, set fire to theii' loads, and hurl them down the precipice ; thus numbers were sacrificed, and many were thesuflerers by loss of their property. At length, on the evening of tlie following day, the rear-guard succeeded in getting the last camel on the move, and made a start themselves. During this day, the enemy began to SOIUNES IN A soldier's LIFE. 363 make their appearance, as Ihcy well knew it was a WMirch of extreme difficulty, and no sooner l.ad the rear-guard got fairly on the narrow ridge, than a cry ran along the columns, that the foe was hieing from the hills, and were attacking the line on the inarch. The night had already closed in, ana from the darkness we could see plainly their matches glittering in the small caves and crags, which aided us in taking aim, and pickhig them off. I wa« on the rear guard this night, and was walking along, when I felt myself suddenly seized and pushed all but down the precipice— I had a piece in my hand, and, when released, made a charge at him, just as he was advancing with a drawn sword, and dealt out a severe blow with it, and succeeded in striking me on the left side of ray head, just as I lodged a ball in him, and we both fell. He was evidently suffering much, but I was comparatively well. I rose almost des- perate, and dragged him to the edge of the shelf, and with the assistance of some others who now came up, dashed him down, never to rise again. I then felt my head was bleeding, and fainted, and of course became also an obstruction in the path, and had it not been for the timely assistance of s* ne of the rear, I must have shared the same fate as many before me, who had been consigned to the gaping abyss of the Khiva. Pass. I, however, soon revived, and with my head boui i .1 , resumed my travel. Those in advance had been attaclted, and the road i;iow il 864 SCENES IN A soldier's LIPB. became literally crowded with dead and dying, — the latter were put into doolies or palanquins, and sent to camp. Tliia narrow path led for several miles, and ultimately opened out into a road, bor- dered on euch side by the mountains ; here the enemy succeeded in doing c^reat damage with their large knives, already described. They would in the dark- attack the poor followers and camel atten- #!i<'u£. , cut their throats, hack them, and lead off their cattle, and in many instances form a fresh string of camels, as those in rear would follow in the dark, and being led into some narrow digres- sing path in the adjacent hills, would be attacked by a body, and tlius sacrificed. On our arrival in camp at All Musjid, the losses were soon ascer- tained, and great indeed they were. Numbers were seen in every direction, who had been carried in, most brutally hacked, and lay stiffening in blood, and undressed wounds ; inflicted by the dastardly cowards, with their knives. Every available hand that could stitch a gash up, was most acceptable, and employed ; some there were with fearful cuts across their arms, legs, hamstrings, abdomens, heads, &c. ; others were just expiring for want of aid ; more had died from loss of blood ; and many were dying in deep despair, suffering in the greatest agony from the wounds they had received. I assisted the Surgeon in stitching up the gashes of the poor fellows, and several died during the oper- ation ; suffering myself from a wound in my head, I SCENES TJ A soldier's LIFE. 365 fainted with weakness, anil sickened at the awful sight before me. Then come the h)sses, many, very many, had lost their all, and not only their property, hut their servants, in charj^e of it, had been most bar- barously cut otf. Lieutenant Snelling and Quar- ter Master Hives of the 40th, lost all they posses- sed, and their two servants, (Europeans), were brought in most cruelly iiacked. One of them had a dreadful cut across the abdomen, and over the right hip, and soon alter died. In sliort, not less than one hundred and fifty m- ^ere, in the most inhu- man manner, mtissacred in the dark, and I firmly believe, by none others than the very troops placed in the Pass to hold and keep it,--tliat is, the trvops of Shere Singh, Rajah of the Punjaub. We halted after a tedious march of about forty hours, and owing to the straggling, and difficult ground, the tents could not be pitched with regu- larity, although they now were reduced to a very few. Baggage and camp equipage became scarce, and property of most valuable description had been cap- tured by the insurgents during the march. Ali Musjid stood on the top of a high hill, in the centre of the Pass, commanding it in every direction, and had the most overwhelming appear- ance I had ever seen. To describe it, more than this, would be useless. All other fortifications, or strongholds hitherto met with, standing on eminen- ces of more than a thousand feet, became as nothing compared with this greatest of the great ones of see SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. -^j I Alexander's superior construction. But great as it was, wo expended a few barrels of powder, and reduced it to nothinj>-. I was a^ain in the rear guard, on the morning of the (3tli November, wiien the explosion took place, and received a slight wound from a piece of the stones blown up. Lieutenant Terry, of the Bombay Artillery, received a shot from a party on the hills hard by, and died shortly after his arrival in the next camp. We commenced the day's march on the sixth, — that wns to take ns out of the fearful Passes, and once again we should turn our backs on the gloomy regions of Aifghanistan. It led ah)ng a beautifully made road, and even to the last, the in- surgents determined on making a final eflbrt to annoy us. The wounded were carried with care, and the troops at length came in sight of a lovely plain, which relieved the eye, and indeed glad- dened the heart. When in sight of Jemrood, (the first stage in a tranquil country) every bosom hea- ved the sigh of gratitude, and felt light, as we stepped, as it were, on terra firma. But even to the very end we were not safe, for I believe, nearly the last shot that was tired at us, had its intended billet; for the gallant Lieutenant ChamberLiin, who had so often distinguished himself, during the cam- paign, whilst riding along, when in sight of Jem- rood, received a shot from a matchlock, in his laft knee, and has been ever since, almost disabled. We at length reached the desired spot, a mast compact I SCENISS IN A soldier's LWU, 867 •mall fort, built under the direction of General Avitabilo, the (jlovernor of Pcs!iawar, and erected in tlie French style of fortication. This fort, though not more tlian live hundred yardr< square, was the most complete one 1 had ever seen. All I oon became a scene of peace and harmony, ©ace more in a land of friends, or, at least, not iio»^ tile to us. Here the whole of the ollicers were most hospitably and sun»ptuQUsly entertained by General Avita'jile, one of Nai)oleon's ollicers, in the service of Shere Singh, and one ol' the many who were per- mitted to organize Uunjeet Singh's Army, j^ccord- ing to a treaty with the British to that eflect. The General assisted the divisions in every possible way he c "dd ; supplie;j were got in, and every preparation was at once entered into for our immediate depar- ture for Ferozcpore ; and having a march, of about forty days befoio us, it was necessary to replenish all the departments. Tl e General, who had a pro- fusion of cash, granted bcveral loans to the army, on account of the Indian Government, and thua succeeded in getting a considerable deal of his aa^ Ired wealth out of the country. He gave splendid balls and hunts to the whole of the officers ; in fact, kept open-house, and many will Iod^ remember the kindness they met at the hands of General A^atabile, a fine, tall, noble-iooking man, appa 8rvy about sixty years of age. He was most severe, and almost tyrannical in his situation, but yrm, nevertheless, almost worshipped by the 368 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. natives. To give my readers a slight idea of his severity, the Governor used to carefully examine into ail complaints and matters brought before him ; but as sure as a party would be found guilty, 80 sure he would be hanged. A gallows was erected just opposite to his window, and several others about the Town of Peshawar, on which all the criminals were hanged ; and when I visited the Town, I counted eighteen bodies dangling in the air opposite tu his rooms. Tiie Troops soon began to move off for Feroze- pore. All around now bore the appearance of spring and beau If; the fields were green, and the trees bending with fruit; the country around all clear from mountains ; the roads were level ; and, in short, everything became comfort and happiness, when compared with the past scenes in Affghanis- tan. The Commissariat Avas easily supplied, and nothing was wanted now but time and patietice to enable us to reach the banks of the Sutlej. I must here remark, that grain, poultry, and sheep, were exceedingly cheap ; the latter, however, were very small, so much so, that it took often eight or ten to supply a Company of about sixty or seventy men ; whereas, in the District of Cabool, one sheep would more than supply one hundred men. On the second day we arrived at Nasara, where there was a beautiful river about one hundred yards wide, which enabled the Troops to refresh themselves with a bath, long wanted. This river is a branch from SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 369 in the celebrated Attock, which we arrived at on the 20th November. The Attock derives its source from the Indus, and is a crystal stream with a very strong current ; it is about two hundred and fifty yards wide, and a bridge across it, formed of bop*8, fastened together, enabled us to pass. On the right bank of the stream stands the Fort of Attock, in a most commanding situation; near to this stands a Mosque, of most exquisite workmanship, being built of white marble. But there is a still mere splendid Mosque on the banks of the River Jumna, called the Taj of Malial, built also of white marble, which is considered one of the most complete and superb pieces of architecture in the Eastern world ; it cost nearly one hundred lacs of rupees, about £1,100,000 sterling. The whole march, from leaving the Khiva to Ferozepore, was one series of beauty and fertility ; everything served to please the eye, and the mind was almost at rest. Nothing of note occurred during the whole march, save the crossing of the Rivers Jumna, Chenab, Ravee, and at leugih the Sutlej. About half way we came to the spot where Alexander the Great erected the monument to his favorite horse Bucephalus, and we found several pieces of his coins. On arriving at the banks of the Sutlej, two bridges of boats were thrown across, and on the other side a triumphal arch was erected to receive the heroes of Central Asia. A Pavilion was erected, in which sat Lord EUenborough, the 370 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. Governor General, and his suite, and he received the Troops as they crossed. A gjrand parade Was formed of the Army of Reserve, who were en- camped a few miles higher up. First went General Pollock's Division, then Sale's, M^Caskili's, and though last, not least, came Nott's, bringing with them the Somnauth Gates. An elephant was in waiting, to receive them on his back, and a magnificent cloth of gold and crimson was laid down on the ground, in which they were wrapped, and carried in triumph to camp. We marched through a complete world of tents — line after line, and camp after camp, we came up fo ; and Ferozepore was one scene of canvas and mili- tary show. The Governor General's Staff formed an entire one of themselves ; in addition to upwards of 86,000 soldiers, and consequently more than that number of followers. The enormous expense attending this, will hardly be conceiveable. Grain, and every other supply, which a few days ago we could get for a mere song, was now scarcely procu- rable at any price, and every dealer seemed bent on extortion. The Christmas day of 1842 was spent in happiness, compared with the several previous ones, and a grand parade was ordered for Lord Ellenborough, to come off on the 31st, when upwards of 75,000 men were on parade at one time. A more splendid sight never met my eye, and I suppose never will again. After this the several Brigades were ordered to proceed to their different SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 371 stations ; the 40th were transferred from the Bom- bay to the Bengal Presidency, and ordered to Meerutt. The 41 st, with the 3rd Light Cavalry, and Leslie's Troop of Horse Artillery, who had performed most exemplary scenes throughout the whole campaign, were ordered to proceed down to Scindc ; the 41st for I'uropc, and the remainder to Quarters. In a few days after this, Ferozeporc began to get thinned of Troops. The Governor General proceeded to Loodiana, where a Gei .eral Court Martial was sitting for the trial of the pri- soners who had been re-captured from Akbar Khan's oppression. A grand durbar was held, prior to the departure of the Governor General, when the principal Chiefs of the Sikh Country were I)resented. Dost Mahomed was ordered to be conducted in safety to the frontiers of his Terri- tory. General Nott was appointed as Resident at the Court of the King of Oude, and parted in tears from his Brigade, who were equally affected at seeing him ride off. He addressed them in a very few words, his heart being too full to speak much. J left r crozepore with Captain Adam son, and sailed down the Sutlej for Sukkur, where I arrived on the 36th February, 1843; after sailing twenty-one days down the river, whicli joins the Indus, and where I met, just arriving the same day, the Bri- gade named as having left Ferozepore for Scinde. The ^Satlcvj being part, and, in fact, a continuation 3T2 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. of the Indas,has the same features and appearwicei, and will, therefore, require no farther c'oscriptioB. Having now returned to Scinde, my next will be the concluding Ciiapter, and contain a brief history of the events, in this country, under Sir Charles Napier. CHAPTER XX. Arrind of Stack » Brigade in Scinde; Sukkur ; State of the cohb- try; Leslie's Troop of Horse Artillery; l»rospecto of another caipnaign; Sir Charles Napier and the Governor General; Sir Ch , utHydrabadwith 2500 men ; Battle of Meanee; Victory orer 16,000; More War; Stack's Force ordered to Hydrabad; State of Scinde; Some account of its origin and people; Major Outram and the Government; AtUck on his residence Noble conduct < f the Light Company of the 22d Regiment; The Ameers; ir positions, conduct, and mrrender; Ap- proach to Khyrpore, Meet AU Morad; Sir Charles Napier; Meer Shere Mahomed determined ii another battle; His position at Dubba; Enemy muater 24,000; Miyor Stack en route; His arrival at Hydrabad; The 22nd Regiment; The Emaum Ghur Detachment; Conjunction of Stack's force; 24th March, 1843; Battle of Dubba; Victory gained; Sute of the Fortress; Priee taken; Departure of the 4l8t from Kurrwchie for England; Departure of the 22nd for Bombay; Their recep- tion; Arrival of the 28th from Australia; Sickness amongst Troops; Sufferings of the 78th Highlanders, and 28th Regt; Aveful ravages of the fever and cholera; Dreadful state of Troops in consequence; Scinde established as a Presidency; Sir Charles Napier appointed Governor; A narrow escape; My arrival at Kurrachie; Hazardous voyage to Bombay; For- tunate again; Remarks on Captain A. A. Nelson, 40th; Mr. Smith; Mr. Harvey; Embarkation for England; Safe arrival in my native land; Concluding remarks. Sukkur now presented another sight ; the sick and some others of the 22nd Regiment, together with few native Troops, were all that held the place, until the arrival of Major Stack's Brigade. Every II fi'-t^.. I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) ^. €?n ^^ U.A z. ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■-lis i:i iS£ ^ 2.5 2.2 2.0 !i.8 U 11111.6 <^ %^ /a ^ ^?J VI i PhotDgrapiiic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 A ,\ :\ iV \ .A ^9) V ^ .A. J^ ^ l^'u- <^ :«* J ^^ 374 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. available hand, possible to muster, had gone down to Hydrabad with Sir Charles Napier, who had been leaking great havoc amongst the proud lords of Scinde. On the 25th of February, 1843, a cossid arrived from Sir Charles's camp, with the news of the victory at the battle of Meanee ; his force consisting of about 2,400 men, and the enemy was upwards of 12,000 ; a royal salute was fired on the occasion. The same packet brought direc- tions for Major Stack to proceed with all the Troops he could raise, to re-inforce the Hydrabad Division, likely to be soon engaged again. The 41st had proceeded down to Kurrachie, and the Major, with his Regiment, the 3rd Light Cavalry, Leslie's un- rivalled Troop of Horse Artillery, and the 8th Regiment, Native Infantry, marched for Hydrabad. The 21st Natives v/ere sent by water, but Scinde was now in such a state of raging rebellion, that it was difficult to find a route sufficiently clear to pro- ceed. I accompanied Stack's force, which, though a neat little Brigade, was ill fitted to oppose so extensive a mob as the Beelooches usually muster. It will doubtless be interesting to my readers, alike with Ghuznee and Cabool, to leara briefly the particulars of this conquest in Scinde.* Much has ♦When the author first put this work to press, and was procuring subscribers, he stated that it would be a volume of SCO pages; but finding the incidents so numerous, and so neces- sary to be narrated, in order to render the tale as connected as possible, found it impossible to do so in the prescribed num- ber, and has, in consequence, been obliged to extend it to nearly SCENES IN A SOLDIEE*S LIFE. 375 already been said on this subject, and much more could be said; but will be classed in common with the whole of the affairs of the Central Asiatic campaigns. Scinde was formerly, under the jurisdiction of Arabs and Moguls, and after- wards under the race from whence sprung Shah Shooja. His forefathers exacted a tribute from the inhabitants, whose faith was once Hindoo, but now principally Mahommedan. It, as with other Eastern nations, had been the cause of much war- fare, and, until nearly a century ago, before the late crisis, it had held an almost independent Go- vernment, and kept tolerably clear of other countries. The name of Beeloochee, or Beeloochy, was derived from a vast number of a Tribe emigrating into the country from time to time, till at length they became so numerous, and were so prosperous, that they formed a dynasty, and ultimately assumed an authority over Scinde. A race called Caloras was amongst them, but were expelled, and succeeded by a Tribe called Talpoors, also of the Beeloochee race, and amongst whom were some most learned men, and who at length got the reins of Govern- ment, and retained them until the interference of the British in 1838. The two great Tribes, the Jutts and Becloochees, continued to rule, and, by an additional hundred pages; and even now, is compelled to leave out very many circumstances of the greatest moment, in addi- tion to being compelled to be much more brief in his descriptions than he wished. i 376 SCENES IN A SOLDIEB^S LIFE. intermarrying, became so powerful in the greatest of all points in India, religions views, that a com- plete Government, from the Talpoors, was most effectually carried on. The Court was formed of Emirs, or Ameers, (lords) ; these consisted of eight brothers, who, being Chiefs of the highest blood, held possessions in various parts of the country ; the senior, Mir, or Meer, was looked up to as the Rais or head, and was invested with a superior authority, allowed to settle all family scuffies, and had the ruling voice over ttie whole nation. They were of jealous dispo- sitions, and spite of their mutual recognition of the Rais, were ever exhibiting a spirit of conspiracy against each other, owing to the prosperity, or otherwise, of the respective allotments in yield- ing revenue. The country was divided into three principal seats, called, Khyrpoore, Meerpoore, and Hydrabad — all being subject to the latter as the Seat of Government. Their army, and principal means of defence, were the Beeloochee race, who were paid by grants of land ; in addition to this, a force was hired from the Merab Khan of Kelat. The revenues derived from the various sources, supported an immense treasury. Prior to 1838, a Treaty had existed between the British and these Ameers, of a friendly nature, establishing a reci- procal commercial intercourse. Another Treaty was commenced in 1836 and ended in 1838, when the rulers of Scinde were induced to permit a SCEN£S IN A SOLDIER^S UFE. 377 British Minister to reside at their Court— in conse- quence of Runjeet Singh having threatened them on the North East— he also being in Treaty of friend- ship with us. We reciprocated on this point, and admitted a representative at Calcutta. It became indispensable, in order to carry out our friendship to Shah Shooja, who had been paid out by Runjeet, and the Scindian Monarchy, that we, in order to protect him in the Upper Provinces, should ensure a perfect tranquillity with these Ameers, and at the same time, hold them at such a distance as would enable us at once to have full military command, if necessary. The Indus was the key and main navigable route to support our project ; and thus it became an act of policy on our part, as the Pi^sses and other intricate routes were in full possession of these provinces. We not only arranged to secure tneir friendship, but also the removal of their hired Troops, and substituted ours, to be maintained at the expense of Scinde. With Sir A. Burnes at Cabool, and Sir Henry Pot- tinger at Hydrabad, whose respective influence over the Chiefs was beyond conception, we were pretty safe, and so arranged it that the Government of the whole country was now almost in our own hands. As already stated, these lords of Scinde were of an exceedingly jealous turn of mind, and could not be brought to coincide with the Rais, in having given so much power to the British, and a spirit of opposition began to show itself, which ren- I 378 SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE, 1/ I dered it necessary that we should have a still stronger military force stationed here. To this they threw out many objections, very nat,urally, and it was not until the arrival of the armament under Sir John Keane, from Bombay, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, from Bengal, that we were able to exact a compliance. The Chiefs of the different districts held meet- ings, the object of which was to devise plans to oppose the progress of the British power, and to prevent any further encroachment upon their pos- sessiqns. The Treaties already referred to, still remaining in full force, were, in consequence of these meetings, considered by us politically to be broken, and to give reasons suflQciently strong for recognizing the Rais no farther. The Court was soon, in consequence, separated, and the British bound themselves to support each Ameer in his Territory, and also bound the Princes to support our Troops, by paying an indemnification of several lacs* of rupees per annum. They were to ' cp what Troops they liked, subject to our s^nroval — to coin their own money, and levy taxes on all, except mer- chandize brought in for our use — and to continue their amicable correspondence with us, as friends and relatives. To render this Treaty (or rather Treaties) more binding, one was entered into with every Chief except one, and countersigned by their still privately acknowledged Rais, Meer Roos- toom. Meer Shere Mahomed, a man of most * A lac is a hundred thousand. SCENES IN A soldier's lifk. 379 independent spirit, -efused to connect himself at . all with us, until 1841, when, in a dispute with the other Ameers, he found it necessary, in order to secure our protection, for which ne paid, against his will, 50,000 rupees a-year. Major Outram had heen appointed Resident at the Court of Hydrahad, in the room of Potiinger, who had gone to China. All remained very tranquil, till some intrigue* were discovered by Outram, about May, 1842, and it became indispensable that Government should warn them of the serious results that would accrue, if any attempt were made, on their part, to budge one jot from the very letters of their respective Treaties; and also, that they were, and had been, for some time, looked upon with an eye of suspicion. Lord Ellenboroughjthe recently appointed Gover- nor General, and who consequently knew but veiy little of the actual state of the country, looked upon Outram's information as a reason for establishing an enquiry into the conduct of the Ameers ; and per- haps led to a more hasty conclusion against them than justice demanded. His Lordship's inclina- tions were for the entire possession of Scinde, but he did not for a moment fairly consider the enormous outlay that would be required by the Indian Go- vernment to support it. Outram was averse to the plan, and Ellenborough was opposed to the con- tinuation of the Treaties, being satisfied, from Outram's communications on the subject, that their intrigues were of an extensive character. 380 SCENES IN A SOLDIER^S LIFE. His Lordship also concludedihat Outram was not as zealous a servant as he could wish to have on this spot, and looked upon Sir Charles Napier as one more likely to act according to his directions) both in the o£Qce of diplomatist, and in that of a fight- ing General, the more particularly, as the Troops in Affghanistan were ahout evacuating it, and a large force would he concentrated at Sukkur. Sir Charles was ordered from Bombay to the mouth of the Indus, with, amongst other instructions, the following order from the Governor General : — " It may he convenient that you should he at once informed, that if the Ameers, or any one of them, should act hostilely, or evince hostile designs against our army, it is my fixed resolution never to forgive the breach of faith, and to exact a penalty, which shall be a warning to every Chief in India.'' Thus ran the instructions conveyed to Sir Charles, and thus was swept away all diplomatic agency in Scinde. General Napier was entrusted to select his own party, and the indefatigable, and universally acknowledged zealous Major Outram, who hitherto had been held in the highest confi- dence by the Ameers, was at once shut out even from further communication with them. The Princes, find! j affairs thus, turned now just as averse to Outram as they had been otherwise. They presented to Government a series of com- 8CENE8 IN A SOLDIEB'S LIPK. asi plaints, and considered themselyes entrapped, on the appearance of Napier and liis colleagues. Ellenborough began now to find himself in diffi- culties — inasmuch as he had acted too hastily, and had not s\ifficient proof against the Ameers. And Sir Charles, whose fame and courage are so well known as to need no comment, was elated with the prospect before him, and determined to carry out the project of the Governor General, in every iota. In fact the Princes had no chance; they were scarcely permitted to defend themselves, as cir- cumstances had somewhat clearly shown that they were in a measure connected with theujH country disasters. General Napier's continual cor- respondence with the Governor, not at all favorably inclined towards them, brought to bear the adage that where prejudice is strong, judgment is weak ; and Ellenborough gave another word of advice to Napier, to this effect : " Your force being now collected, I am disposed to think, that no delay should take place in communicating to the Ameers the ultimate deci- sion of the British Government, with respect to the revision of an engagement with them, which their conduct has compelled us to demand," &c. The General was buoyed up with hopes of field glory, and could therefore delay no longer. Several of the Ameers he doubted not had been guilty of writing letters of a hostile nature, as had been imputed to them, and Napier at once commen- ced operations for obtaining the possession of 382 SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFIS. Scinde. The first thing done was to compel them to sign a treaty of such a severe tenor as at once to dispossess them of almost every power tliey had a right to in their own countr),* a part of whom only signed it ; and Meer Shore Mahomed refused most peremptorily, and at length took the field with an immense army, to oppose Sir Charles to the last. Meer AH Morad, of Kliyrpore, one of those who signed the Treaty, being an enemy of his brother, Shere Mahomed, clung to the British, and volunteered his services, with his tribe, to Napier, with the double view of securing his terri- tory, and revenging himself on tlie rebel chief.' Matters now had gone too far to expect an amicable conclusion to be brought to bear ; the majority of them looked upon Outram to have been the origin of their downfall, and privately determined on his massacre. Outram was still living at the Residency, a building about two hundred yards from the Indus. Durbar after durbar was held, and conference after conference ; they called upon Outram to defend them, lo prove that the charges against them were false. Outram in vain declared his powerless position ; they would not believe he had been so divested of his diplo- matic influence ; and as was the case with Sir Alex- ander Burnes,' an infatuated mob, excited by some . . . ^— r-- 1^- — *I would give c(q)ies,gf4l*® Treaties, which T have in my pos- session, but for the: vast space I should require, and have not room. SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 388 private hostile communications from the assembled chiefs, were bent upon Outram^s destruction. The Major had no other guard than one Company* of the 22nd Regiment, and who, upon seeing the state of things, were soon prepared for action. Nothing was wanted but the word, and all would have been mas- sacred. At the conclusion of tlie conicrence, the Major would most assuredly have been cut up, but for two of the Ameers, who, with drawn swords, threatened the mob, if they attempted to fire a shot. Outram reached the Residency, under their protection, in safety, which was soon surroun- ded by several thousands of Beelooches ; they com- menced an attack, but two small steamers in the river came up, and in conjunction with the Euro- pean guard, kept off the mob for a very long time, and the whole got in safety to the boats, and sailed up the river to Sir Charles ; and thus commenced the outbreak. Napier came down at once, and on the 23rd of February, 1843, met Shere Mahomed's force, of about 12,000, at Meeanee, and after a smart battle of several hours, gained a victory. The following day, brought the surrender of all the Ameers, except Shere Mahomed, who still kept the field, and determined on another attack. In vain were attempts made to bring him in ; a Detachment was sent off to Emaum Ghur, a fortress belonging to him, in the middle of a desert, and where he was reported to be sojourning. The troops sent to storm the place, ♦The Light Company. 884 SCENES IR A soldier's LIFE. principally the 22nd, suffered dreadfully from the intenae heat, and forced marching ; but returned, having accomplished the object. Ali Morad, bar- ing shewn so much bravery throughout the whole of the proceedings, and performed so much service for Sir Charles, was at once appointed the Rais over the whole of Scinde, subject to the British. Shere Mahomed took up another position early in March, and succeeded in collecting a much larger force. Sir Charles, who had a mere handful of men, was joined by the brigade named, as having left Sukkur under Major Stack, and who arrived on the 22nd March, just in time to be pre- sent, (fortunately for Sir Charles,) at the battle of Dubba, on the 24th, which terminated in favor of the General again. The loss on our side was very considerable; on theirs, vast indeed. The 22nd acted most nobly. This corps suffered considerably in wounded njen. Leslie's Troop, in conjunction with the 22nd Regiment, stood the brunt of the battle, and most assuredly deserve all the credit due. The 3rd Light Cavalry made several noble movements, and taking into consideration the number opposed to them— about six to one— it was one of the greatest victories gained in the annals of history. The4l8t, who were expecting every day to sail for Old England, were up to the last hour in active service, having to keep Kurrachie ; and were under arms continually during this outbreak. They, how- ever, shortly afterwards embarked from that port, SCENES IN A SOLDIERS LIFE. 385 J and were relieved by the 28th Regiment, from Australia. We had acquired a new territory, and what w as the use of it ? Its revenue required to be collected ; the minds of the people were hostile to us, and tribute could not be exacted, but at the point of the bayonet. The cost of holding Scinde, would form an item in the cash account of the Indian Government, of no small amount ; thus it was, Sir Charles Napier, the undoubted Hero of Scinde, was appointed Governor of the place ; it was annexed as a fourth Prcoidency of India, and every facility was used, to complete the principal stations, a» efficient depots for its safe keeping. The wounded of the 22nd, after having suffi- ciently recovered, were sent to Bombay, and shortly afterwards the Regiment; they were received most graciously at the Presidency ; all the shipping in harbour manned their yards; the troops in the garrison formed a street to receive them, and they were most justly acknowledged to have nobly done their duty to their country, and were the Heros of Ilydrabad. Sickness now came, in the shape of fever and cholera, in Scinde. Four fifths of the troops in the country were in the hospitals; medical assistance was scarce, and almost the majority of the troops died. The 78th Higlanders lost immense numbers of their corps, the 28th equally so ; never did I see Troops 80 cut up by sickness. The 28th were ordered from Hydrabad to Kurrachie, and to give an idea of z 38Q SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. their distress, they were compelled to get an offi- cer from another corps to command the Regiment, not ohe of their own being off the sick list. Not only did this corps suffer so extensively, but all others, and one moment's reflpction will fill the mind with sympathy, for these poor fellows. It is doubtless too fresh in the minds of my readers, to require me to dwell upon the ravages of the sick- ness in Scinde during 1843 and 1844, as the dis- tressing accounts came mail after mail from India, and were fully given in the public journals. t fortunately escaped the epidemic, and left Hydrabad in August, 1843, and reached Kurrachie in a few days, but was twice attacked on the road by the Beeloochees. Travelling without a guard (save two servants,) I, on the last occasion, was met by three Beeloochees, who proved to be those who murdered a Mrs. Burns, and a recruit of the 40th a short time before. These three fellows fired at mo and missed, being some two hundred yards off. I got under cover of one of my camels, carrying my bag- gage; the diiver, who v/as armed with a jezail, fired, and 'shot one of them ; the other two rushed at us with swords ; I had a fine rifle with me, which I fired and hit my mark. One fell dead, and I threw down my piece, drew my sword, and rushing at the other, succeeded in disarming him. I tied him, and put him on a camel, and took him back to Tatta, whore I left him, with a Detachment we had there, and I pro- cured a guide, who conducted me in safety to Kurra- SCENES IN / -SOLPIER'S LIFE. 487 chie. 1 have been often sorry since that I permitted the rascal to escape me so leniently ; but being so anxious to leave Scinde, (very naturally,) and hav- ing left the service, I let it rest. Whilst at Kur- rachie, I met with the greatest kindness from Mr. Conductor Macdonald, of the Commissariat, who did all in his power to assist me, and I found I was doomed to await the opening of the season, for shipping to arrive, as the Moonsoon was then on, unless I braved the ocean in a bugalow or pa- tamar. I was, however, determined not to stay longer in Scinde, and I took a boat about twenty- five tons burthen, manned by three Scindians, and we fearlessly stemmed the briny wave. The wea- ther came on after the first night, very severe, and the little bark was tossed like a cockle shell on the raging sea, but after five days and a half tremen- dous sailing, we reached Bombay in safety. The Moonsoon was just on the turn, and I was compelled to wait until January, 1844, for a ship to sail to En^and. I must here acknowledge the very many obli- gations I am under, to Captain A. A. Nelson, of the 40th, whom I was with in the Commissariat Department, also to Messrs Smith and Harvey. These were indeed the most indefatigable ser- vants to their country I had ever seen; they received the thanks of the Indian Government, on more than one occasion, most deservedly. To Mr. Harvey I am doublv indebted ; his unremitting , -tv ■ J'"". ! . ■ l »i,,..'flf g| y^if^lw-} 38B^ SCENBS IN A soldier's LIFE. kindness to me on all occasions, calls for my every e£fort, to make his worthiness known. As a soldier he ever 'proved himself brave and noble, as a res- ponsible servant to the Government of India, none could be more zealous, faithful and just. The Bom- bay Government are deeply indebted to him for his valuable services and exertions throughout the campaign, inasmuch as the supplies were kept up by his valuable services and exertions throughout. By his and Mr. Smith's energetic system, no means were lost, no extravagance used, but the con- irsirf ; nay, that branch of the service for the supply of provisions, under the immediate arrangement of the above named, with Captain Nelson, cannot be too highly spoken of. Mr. Smith, whoMS since dead, was most indefatigable. Should ever the Bombay Government have need for a man of inte- grity and zeal in the field, they will not find one more so than Mr. John Harvey, of the Commissa- riat Department. I visited my old friends, the 22d, during my stay at the Presidency, and on the 4th of January, 1844, 1 sailed in the " Thomas Coutts," for England, where I arrived on the 2nd May. I returned to India in October of the following year and again embarked for England, by steam, via the Overland route, in February, 1846, sending my heavy baggage in the unfortunate steamship " Liverpool." I of course lost it, being unensured, and but that I remained some weeks in the Holy Land, on a tour, I should have been a pa^'senger SCENES IN A soldier's LIFE. 389 hi the vessel. I must now conclude my Narrative, which is far from being as complete as I would wish it. In consequence of the promised size of the work, I am compelled to be brief in my details, from circumstances over which I have no control. If it, however, as I most fervently trust it will, be found at all interesting to my readers, I am doubly repaid; and as, doubtless, there are many points in it, which might be iipproved, yet I hope, as I do not profess to be a practised writer of history, that these little faults will be overlooked. My travels in the Holy Land, as well in the principal places of the known world, may perhaps be considered wor- thy of a perusal, and I shall be induced to publish them at an early period, from the liberal manner in which I have been encouraged by subscriptions to this, and my former works, and for which I beg to return my sincere thanks. It has occurred to me that the following brief extracts Tpay.b^ of interest vtso .the r;e^der, and I therefore- iiigert ihiij hek: * * Th^ ; wailfes of Lord Hardinge,on the s\il)jectpjf the.crueljtie*s.n^c»t falsely attribulea.'to:^ BrMsh.^rciopfi-aVj-staUf, will serve to disabuse the minds of any who may have been credulous enough to believe the malicious rumours alluded to. I, myself, assert them to be without a vestige of truth. The conduct of our Forces at Istalif, as at all other places in Jndia, ^fpl?**#»^'l» ssssHBaa 390 »«• SCENES IN A SOLDIER'S LIFE / was generous and forbearing, and characteristic of good, as well as of brave men. General McCaskill says in his despatch : "Lieutenant Evans, commanding 4l8t Light Infantry, very bravely and successfully led the onset in the storming of Ibtalif, the stronghold of the Gilozie Chiefs, but was unfortunately shot in the Town after its capture." * Lord Hardinge, as Secretary at War, in the debate in the House of Commons, alluding to the death of this gallant officer, spoke as follows:— "I am not aware of any cruelties being committed by our Troops at Istalif, but, I believe the shooting, after the place was taken, of that popular and spirited young officer, Lient. Evans. 4l8t, who so gallantly led the onset, did occasion a strong feeling of excitement amongst that young officer's admiring followers." I ! ! .''. j . ... .. ^ • ' ■' r a . ii \ / 1 IN PREPARATION, And will shortly be isswd^ BY THE AUTHOR OF "'SCENES IN A SOLDIEb'S UFK," A NEW WORK, EHTITLED ^'FORTUNES AND MISFORTUNES;" A TALE OF REAL LIFE, In One Volume — Duodecimo. ALSO, BY THE SAME AUTHOR, A NEW WORK, As a Companion to the "Scenes in a Soldier's Life" CALLED THE ARMY AS IT WAS & THE ARMY AS IT IS.