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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. errata I to t ) pelure, on d D 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Routledge*s World Library Advertiser. A LUXURY Unknown in JEngland. (SEE THAT YOU HAVE NONE OTiIEK) COFFEE AS USED IN PARIS IN ITS HIGHEST PERFECTION. TENPENCE PER POUND. This is the Choicest and most carefully-selected Coffee, Roasted on the r'rench principle, and mixed with the Finest Bruges Chicory. 5 lbs. in TINS Free by Parcels Post for 5s. 6d., or 2 lbs. for 2s. 4d., To all Post Towns in United Kingdom and Channel Islands. Postal Orders from Is. 6d. to IDs. may now be had for One Penny. CHEQUES TO BE C A' OSS ED '•LONDON &^ WESTMINSTER BANK." BARBER & COMPANY, 274, Regent Circus, Oxford St., W. ; 61, Bishopsgate St., E.C. 102, Westbourne Grove, W. Kind's Cross, N. 42, Creat Titchfield Street. W. The Borough, London Bridge. Brighton — 141, North Street. Birmingham — Quadrant. Cook. Liverpool — I, Church Street. Manchester — 93, Market Street Bristol -38, Corn Street. 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BUGS MQtHSr bIeetles inTinsS^I/-^ KEATING'S WORMTABLETS JJEARLY all Children suffer from WORMS ; if suspected, do not wait, you cnn witli ease cure the child ; this remedy is SURE TO CURE, SAFE TO USE. (Has no effect except on Wormi). Tins, Is. l^d. at all Chemists. 1 roljtledge's world library THE THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK. ©■ eA^zt/uvest CollectiorL ROUTLEDGE'S WORLD LIBRARY *' Syllables govern the world."— John Sklden. THE , THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE REV. HUGH REGINALD HAWEIS, M.A. LONDON GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS BROADWAY, LUDGATE HII.L NEW YORK: 9 LAFAYETTE PLACE 1886 •^ ^ d Lond. 4* * INTRODUCTION By the Rev. H. R. HAWEIS, M.A. I Captain Cook was assassinated at Owhyhec, one of the Sand- wich Islands, in 1779, the very year that Nelson was made a pobt-captain. Both were masters each of an art which had been brought to perfection behind the wooden walls of old England, before the advent of ironclads and steam-power. The navigation of Cook and the fighting of Nelson may have been superseded by modern appliances and inventions, but the great discoveries were made and the great battles were won before the mechanical facilities of transit and destruction are what they have since become. To me there is a charm as of chivalric days about those old ships. The interest of human endeavour, the triumph of human ingenuity, resource, and courage over obstacles almost insuperable with the instruments at hand, seem to lend a poetic interest and enduring moral to the feats of those early giants who, with such inadequate means, compassed such magnificent ends. ^Hfi 60 vi INTRODUCTION. Captain Cook may almost be called the Columbus of the South Seas, for he first proved New Zealand to be an island, and not, as was supposed, a continent— by sailing round it. He was a self-made man. A poor peasant lad, born at Marton in Yorkshire in 1728. lie went to sea in the usual way, seems always to have had a passion for drawing maps and making drafts of river-channels, and very soon distinguished himself in this direction at the siege of Quebec. From early boyhood he was always on the high seas. He went out in 1763 to Newfoundland as surveyor to Captain Graves, and afterwards acted under Sir Hugh Palliser. The Royal Society next employed him to command a ship sent to the South Seas to observe the transit of Venus. The account of his voyage to these strange regions excited so much interest that he was soon despatched on another voyage of discover}'. He got as far as 71" 10' south latitude when, concluding that he would be frozen up in icebergs if he ventured any further, he returned to England in 1775. The Royal Society gave him a gold medal for his services to science and geography, and his journals were edited by Dr. Douglas, afterwards Bishop of Salisbury. Cook sailed for the last time in July, 1776, on what is commonly known as his third voyage, to try and discover a northern passage to the Pacific Ocean. He got as far as '^'j^ 44' north, when his ships, Rcsolutio7i and Discovery, were again stopped by ice. Turning back, he began the exploration of the Sandwich Islands, and lost his life at the age of fifty-one in an unhappy skirmish with the natives, February 14th, 1779. Captain Cook was a man of singular uprightness, courage, and generosity. He was fair but firm in his dealings with the "% INTRODUCTION, vii natives, and a born ruler of men. His crew adored him, and his friends j:^ave him tiie devotion of their lives. His powers ot observation were extraordinary : not a bird or a tree, not a custom, or native peculiarity, or an incident escaped him. He put everything down in his journal with the fidelity of a Boswell on Johnson, or of White writing the histor}' of Selborne. This made his narrative as amusing as " Robinson Crusoe," and rather more instructive, because faithfully true. The combination of such varied mental and moral qualities enabled him to use the rough materials then alone at the disposal of Arctic explorers with signal results. He dealt like a father with his men, and like a king, or, as they thought, a god, with the natives ; and he has added such treasures to geographi- cal science that his name has become almost co-extensive with the word " Discovery" as it applies to the South Seas. Any one who has sailed for thousands of miles upon the ocean will know that there is a considerable sameness, perhaps mono- tony, about the days which ''follow and resemble one another." From such monotony Cook's narrative is not altogether free, but the enforced curtailment here adopted will I tru.^t remove even that slight element of dulness without impairing the general drift and consecutiveness of the story. H. R. HAWEIS. THE THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK. CAPTAIN COOK, on his first voya^^e to the South Seas, returned home by the Cape of Good Hope, in July, i/7i, and again this experienced circumnavigator performed his second voyage in the Resolution^ which sailed from England in July, 1772, and returned on the 30th of the same month in 1775. The general object of this and the preceding voyage round the world, was to search for unknown tracts of land that might exist within the bosom of the immense expanse of ocean that occupies the southern hemi- sphere, and to determine the existence or non-existence of a southern continent. During these voyages the several lands of which any account had been given by the Spaniards or Dutch, were carefully looked for, and most of them found, visited, and accurately surveyed. The Terra Austraha del Espiritu Santo of Quiros, which he regarded as part of a southern continent, was circum- navigated by Captain Cook, who assigned to it its true position and extent. Bougainville did no more than discover that the land here was not connected ; but Captain Cook explored the whole group. Byron, Wallace, and Carteret had each of them con- tributed towards increasing a knowledge of the amazing profusion of islands that exist in the Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the southern tropic, but how far that ocean reached to the west, what lands bounded it on that side, and the connection of those lands with the discoveries of former navigators, remained absolutely unknown till Captain Cook decided the question, and brought home ample accounts of them and their inhabitants. FO ririRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF 'I'liat nolhinj:; might be left unattempted, though much had been .ilrr;i(ly done, Captain Cook, whose professional knowledge could only l)e e(|iiallcd by the persevering diligence with which he had employed it in the course of his former researches, was caded upon once more to resume his survey of the globe. This brave and ex- perienci'd conunander might have spent the remainder of his da\ s in the conunand to which he had been appointed in Greenwich llos|)ital ; but he cheerfully relin(|uished this honourable station in a letter lo the Admiralty, dated February loth, 1776, placed his services at the disi)osal of their lordships, and undertook a third vi>yage, which, in one respect, was less fortunate than any former exiHHliiion. being jierformcd at the exi:)ense of the precious and most valiial)le life of its conductor. Former circumnavigators had returned to I'-urope by the Cape of Good Hope ; the arduous and, as we now know, impossible task was assigned to Captain Cook of attempting it by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and America. lie was ordered to proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Islands, ami then, having crossed the equator into the northern trojiic, to hoUl such a course as might most probably give success to the attempt of tinding out a northern passage. But that the reader may be enabled to judge with precision of the great outlines (->( tlie present important voyage, of the various objects it had in view, and how far they were carried into execution, it may be proper 10 insert a copy of the Admiralty's instructions to l"aptain Cook. "Whereas, the Earl of Sandwich hath signified to us his n\ajesty"s pleasure, that an attempt should be made to find out .1 northern passage by sea from the Pacitic to the Atlantic Ocean ; and, whereas, we have in pursuance thereof caused his majesty's sloops a\\\-('.'.v //('/•; and Pis^oiu-rvio be titted, in all respects, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the purpose above mentioned ; and from the experience we liave had of your abilities and good con- tluct in your late voyages, have thought tit to entrust you with the conduct oi the present intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to command the tirst-mentioned sloop, and directed C\\[itain Clerke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for his further proceedings ; you are hereby required and directed to proceed with the said two sloops directly for the Cape of Good Hope, unless you sliall judge it necessary to stop at Madeira, the Cape de \'crd, or Canary Islajids, to take in wine for the use of CAPTAIN COOK, II i been could le had i upon nd ex- s da\ s jnwich tion in ed his I third former jis and »rs had IS and, ;!ook of ;n Asia or the ito the )ly give iut that e great jects it it may ions to us his ind out Ocean ; ajesty's proper d ; and od con- ith the at view directed ders for jcted to )f Good -ira, the ; use of I ^7 4 their companies ; in which case you are at liberty so to do, taking care to remain there no longer than may be necessary for that pur- pose ; and on your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refresh the sloops' companies with as much provision and water as can be conveniently stowed. " If possible, you are to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of October or beginning of November next, and proceed to the southward in search of some islands, said to have been lately seen by the French, in the latitude 48 deg. south, and under or near tlie meridian of Mauritius. In case you find those islands, you are to examine them thoroughly for a good harbour ; and upon discovering one, make the necessary observations to facilitate the finding it again, as a good port in that situation may hereafter pro\e very useful, although it should afford nothing more than shelter, wood, and water. You are not, however, to spend too much time in looking out for those islands, or in the examination of them, if found, but lo proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Isles (touching at New Zealand in your way thither if you should judge it necessary and convenient), and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the sloops' companies the refreshment they may stand in need of before you prosecute the further object of these instructions. Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, you are to land Omai at such of them as he may choose, and to leave him there. *' You are to distribute among the chiefs of those islands such part of the presents with which you have been supplied as you shall judge proper, reserving the remainder to distribute among the natives of the countries you may discover in the northern hemi- sphere ; and having refreshed the people belonging to the sloops under your command, and taken on board such wood and water as they may respectively stand in need of, you are to leave those islands in the beginning of February, or sooner if you shall judge it necessary, and then to proceed in as direct a course as you can to the coast of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude of 45 deg. north, and taking care in your way thither not to lose any time in search of new lands, or to stop at any you may fall in with, unless you find it necessary to recruit your wood and water. " You are also in your way thither, strictly enjoined not to touch upon any part of the Spanish dominions on the western continent of America, unless driven thither by some unavoidable accident, in 12 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF which case you are to stay no longer there than shall be absolutely necessary, and to be very careful not to give umbrage or otfence to any of the inhabitants or subjects of his Catholic Majesty. And, if in your further progress to the northward, as hereafter directed, you find any subjects of any European prince or state upon any part of the coast you may think proper to visit, you are not to disturb them, or give them any just cause of offence, but, on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friendship. " Upon your arrival on the coast of New Albion, you are to put into the first convenient port to recruit your wood and water and procure refreshments, and then to proceed northward along the coast as far as the latitude of 65 deg., or farther, if you are not obstructed by lands or ice ; taking care not to lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account until you get in the before-mentioned latitude of 65 deg., where we could wish you to arrive in the month of June next. When you get that length you are very carefully to search for and explore such rivers or inlets as may appear of considerable <"xtent, and pointing towards Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, and if, from your own observations or from information from the natives (who, there is reason to believe, are the same race of people, and speak the same language — of which you are furnished with a vocabulary — as the Esquimaux), there shall appear to be a certainty, or even a probabilitv, of a water passage into the afore-mentioned bays, or either of them, you are, in such case, to use your utmost endeavours to pass through with one or both of the sloops, unless you shall be of opinion that the passage may be effected with more certainty, or with greater pro- bability, by smaller vessels ; in which case you are to set up the frames of one or both of the small vessels with which you are pro- vided, and when they are put together, and are properly fitted, stored, and victualled, you are to despatch one or both of them under the care of proper officers, with a sufficient number of petty officers, men, and boats, in order to attempt the said passage ; with such instructions for rejoining you, if they should fail, or for their further proceedings, if they should succeed in the attempt, as you shall judge most proper. But, nevertheless, if you shall find it more eligible to pursue any other measures than those above pointed out, in order to make a discovery of the before-mentioned passage (if any such there be), you are at liberty ; and we leave it to your discretion to pursue such measures accordingly. CAPTAIN COOK. 13 % i •• But, should you be satisfied that there is no passage through the bays, sufficient for the purposes of navigation, you are, at the proper season of the year, to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, or wherever else you shall judge more proper, in order to refresh ycur people and pass the winter ; and in the spring of the ensuing year, 1778, to proceed from thence to the northward, as far as in your prudence you may think proper, in further search of a North-east or Noilh-west passage from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic, or North Sea ; and, if from your own observation, or any information you may receive, there shall appear to be a probability of such a passage, you are to proceed as above directed ; and having discovered such a passage, or failed in the attempt, make the best of your way back to England, by such route as you may think best for the improvement of geography and navigation ; repairing to Spithead with both sloops, where they are to remain till further orders. " And at whatever places you may touch in the course of your voyage, where accurate observations of the nature hereafter mentioned have not been made, you are, as far as your time will allow, very carefully to observe the situation of such places, both in latitude and longitude ; the variation of the needle ; bearings ot headlands ; height, direction, and course of the tides and currents ; depths and soundings of the sea ; shoals, rocks, &c. ; and also to survey, make charts, and take views of sucl. bays, harbours, and different parts of the coast, and to make such notations thereon as may be useful either to navigation or commerce. You are also carefully to observe the nature of the soil and the produce thereof ; the animals or fowls that inhabit or frequent it ; the fishes that are found in the rivers or upon the coast, and in what plenty ; and in case there are any peculiar to such places, to describe them minutely, and to make as accurate drawings of them as you can ; and if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable stones, or any extraneous fossils, you are to bring home specimens of each ; ai also of the seeds of such trees, shrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar to those places, as you may be able to collect, and to transmit them to our secretary, that proper experiments and exami- nations mpy be made of them. You are likewise to examine the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the natives and inhabi- tants, where you find any ; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship with them^ making them presents of such J '4 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF trinkets as you may have on board, and they may like best ; inviting them to traffic, and showing them every kind of civility and regard, but taking care, nevertheless, not to suffer yourselves to be surprised by them, but to be always on your guard against any accidents. " You are also, with the consent of the natives, to take pos- session, in the name of the King of Great Britain, of convenient situations in such countries as you may discover, that have not already been discovered or visited by any other European power ; and to distribute among, the inhabitants such things as will re- main as traces and testimonies of your having been there ; but if you find the countries so discovered are uninhabited, you are to take possession of them foi his majesty, by setting up proper marks and inscriptions as first discoverers and possessors. " But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, several emer- gencies may arise not to be foreseen, and therefore not particularly to be provided for by instructions beforehand, you are, in such cases, to proceed as you shall judge most advantageous to the service on which you are employed ; and you are, by all oppor- tunities, to send to our secretary, for our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the surveys and drawings you shall have made ; and upon your arrival in England, you are imme- diately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a. Tull account of your proceedings in the whole course of your voyage, taking care, before you leave the sloop, to demand from the officers and petty officers the log-books and journals they may have kept, and to seal them up for our inspection, and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they have permission so to do ; and you are to direct Captain Gierke to do the same with respect to the officers, petty officers, and crew of the Discovery. '' Should any accident happen to the Resolution in the course of the voyage, so as to disable her from proceeding any further, you are in such case to remove yourself and her crew into the Discovery, and to prosecute your voyage in her, her commander being hereby strictly required to receive you on board, and to obey your orders, the same in every respect as when you were actually on board the Resolution; and in case of your inability by sickness, or otherwise, to carry these instructions into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the best manner he can. CAPTAIN COOK. 15 iviting egard, prised ts. s pos- enient /e not ower ; ill re- but if are to marks emer- :ularly such to the oppor- mts of u shall imme- ccount taking jrs and pt, and nd the y have to do J of the urse of or, you jovery, hereby orders, ard the erwise, eful to squired "The above instructions were given July 6th, 1776, under the hands of the Earl of Sandwich, Lord C. Spencer, Sir H, I'alliscr ; and, by command of their lordships, signed, Philip Stephens, Secre- tary of the Admiralty/' In order to carry this noble and extensive plan into execution, on the 14th of February, 1776, the Resolution and Discox'try^ having been completely equipped in the dock at Dcptford, were put into commission. Captain Cook hoisted his pendant on board the former sloop, and the command of the Discovery^ of 300 tons bur- then, which had been purchased into the service, was gi\ en to Cap- tain Clerke, who had been Captain Cook's second lieutenant on board the Resolution^ in his second voyage round the world. Both ships were well fitted out, and supplied abundantly with ever\' article necessary for a long voyage ; and on the 8th of June, while they lay in Long Reach, they had the satisfaction of a \-isit from Earl Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, to ascertain whether everything had been completed pursuant to their orders and for the convenience of their crews. They honoured Captain Cook with their company to dinner on .that day, and were saluted on their coming on board and on their going on shore, with seventeen guns and three cheers. To convey some permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite and of the other islands which they might happen to visit, his Majesty ordered a supply of some useful animals, with hay and corn for their support. They were also furnished with a sufficient quantity of valuable European gar- den seeds which might add fresh supplies of food to the vegetable productions of 'the newly-discovered islands. They had also an extensive assortment of iron, tools, and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly commerce and intercourse with the inhabitants of such new countries as might be discovered. A variety of other articles, which might be conducive to health, comfort, or convenience, were also added. In furtherance of geographical science, a variety of astro- nomical and nautical instruments were intrusted by the Doard of Longitude to Captain Cook and Mr. King, his second lieutenant, who volunteered to supply the place of a professional observer. The Board likewise intrusted them with the time-keeper, by Kendal, Captain Cook had employed on his last voyage, and which had given great satisfaction. Another chronometer and a similar assortment of astronomical and other instruments were put on board the Discovery for the use of Mr. William Bailey, who i6 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF was engaged as an observer on board that sloop. Thoup^h several young men among the sea-officers were capable of being employed in constructing charts, drawing plans, and taking views of the coasts and headlands, nevertheless, Mr. Webster was engaged to embark with Captain Cook for the purpose of supplying the defects of written accounts, by taking accurate drawings of tlic most memorable scenes and transactions. Mr. Anderson, also, surgeon to Captain Cook, added to his pro- fessional abilities a great proficiency in natural history. This gentleman had already visited the South vSea Islands in the same ship, and enabled the captain to enrich his history of his voyage with useful and valuable remarks. The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Islands, and of the natives of Nootka, had been furnislicd to the commander by this useful associate, and a fourth vocabulary, in which the language of the Esquimaux was compared with that of the Americans on the opposite side of the continent, had Ijeen prepared by the captain himself. The con- fessed abilities and great assiduity of Mr. Anderson, in observing everything that related either to natural history or to manners and language, and the desire manifested by Captain Cook on all occa- sions to h:.ve the assistance of that gentleman, afforded proof of the great value of his collections. The Resoliitioii had the same com- plement of ofticers and men that she had in her former voyage, and the establ'shment of the Di'sco:'(j?y varied from that of the Adven- ture in the single instance of her having no marine officer on board. This arrangement was linally completed at Plymouth, and on the gth of July they received the party of marines allotted for the voyage. On board both vessels were 192 persons, officers included. Those of the Resolution were Lieutenants Gore, Kin,cr, and William- son ; Biigh,* master ; Anderson, surgeon ; and Philips, lieutenant of marines. The officers of the Discovery were lieutenants Burney and Rickman ; Edgar, master ; and Law, surgeon. * Mr. \V'iIlij.m IJligli was the same officer who commanded the Bonnfy, the crew of which mutinied on April 8, 1789, off Otaheite, and having bound Lieutenant Hligh, turned him adrift in the long-boat with eighteen men, and, with onlv 150 lbs. of biscuit, ,32 lbs. of poik, and a 28-gallon cask of water. Mr. Bligh ultimately reached Timor, having traversed 3,618 miles in forty-six days. The /'a«t/(7ra was despatched from England to bring the mutineers to justice, and eighteen were brouglit off the island; but the frigate was wrecked, when several men were drowmed. Ten of the mutineers reached^ England and were tried by court-martial, when three were hanged in June, 1792. Fletcher Christian, the ringleader, and the mutineei to Pitcairn's Island, where they were discovered in iSog. ?ers proceeded in the Bounty CAPTAIN COOK. 17 It is with Captain Cook's third and last fatal voyage of explora- tion in which he lost his life that the present volume alone deals, and we give the narrative in an abbreviated form, chiefly in, the Captain's own words. Contrary winds and other circumstances of little consequence prevented the ships from clearing the Channel till the 14th of July, 1776. Nothing material happened till the ist of August, when we arrived off Teneriffe, one of the Canaries, where several of the gentlemen landed. It is said that none of the al^original inhabi- tants remain here as a distinct people, but that the produce of their intermarriage with the Spaniards may still be traced in a strong and muscular race dispersed over the islands. On the 4th we weighed anchor and proceeded on our voyage. At nine o'clock in the evening of the loth we saw the island of Bonavista, bearing south, distant little more than a league, though at this time we thought ourselves much farther off. This, however, proved a mistake, for after hauling to the eastward till twelve o'clock to clear the sunken rocks that lie about a league from the south-east point of the island, we found ourselves at that time close upon them, and but just weathered the breakers. Our situation, for a few moments, was very alarming. I did not choose to sound, as that might have heightened the danger instead of lessening it. For some days preceding the 6th of October we had seen alba- trosses, pintadoes, and other petrels, and now saw three penguins, which induced us to sound, though we found no ground at 150 fathoms. On the loth of October we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, and found in the bay two French East India ships, the one outward and the other homeward bound. Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31st, when it began to blow excessively hard from the south-east and continued for three days, during which time there was no comaiiunication between the ship and the shore. The JRcsolntion was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. We felt its effects not less sensibly on shore ; the tents and observatory were torn to pieces, and the astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On the 3rd of November the storm ceased. The Discovery^ having been detained some days at Plymouth i8 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF after the Resolution^ did not arrive here till the loth. Captain Gierke informed me that he had sailed from Plymouth on the ist of August, and should have been with us a week sooner if the late gale of wind had not blown him off the coast. Upon the whole, he was seven days longer in his passage from England than we had been. He had the misfortune to lose one of his marines, who fell over- board ; but there had been no other mortality among his peopiv% and they now arrived well and hearty. While the ships were getting ready, some of our officers made an excursion into the neighbouring country. Here I added to my original stock of live animals by purchasing two young bulls, two heifers, two young stone horses, two mares, two rams, several ev.es and goats, and some rabbits and poultry. All of them were intended for New Zealand; Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, or any other place in the course of our voyage where there might be a prospect of their proving useful to posterity. Having given Captain Clerkc a copy of my instructions, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of separation, we repaired on board on the morning of the 30th. At five in the afternoon we weighed and stood out of the bay. We steered a south-east course, with a very strong gale from the westward, followed by a mountainous sea, which made the ship roll and tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of trouble to preserve from injury the cattle we had on board. Notwithstanding all our care, several goats, especially the males, died, as also some sheep. This misfortune was, in a great measure, owing to the cold, which we now began to feel most sensibly. Nothing very interesting hr^ppened from the 5th of December till the 26th of January, when they arrived at Van Diemen's Land, where, as soon as they had anchored in Adventuie Bay, Captain Cook says, I ordered the boats to be hoisted out. In one of them I went myself to look for the most commodious place for furnishing ourselves with the necessary supplies, and Captain Clerke went in his boat upon the same service. Early next morning I sent Lieu- tenant King to the east side of the bay, with two parties, one to cut wood and the other grass, under the protection of the marines, as, although none of the natives had appeared, there could be no doubt that some were in the neighbourhood. I also sent a launch for water, and afterwards visited all the parties myself. In the evening we drew the seine at the head of the bay, and at one haul caught a CAPTAIN COOK. 19 great quantity of fish ; most of them were of that sort known to seamen by the name of clcpliant tish. In the afternoon, next day, we were agreeably surprised, while cutting wood, with a visit from eight men and a boy, natives of the country. They approached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, for none of them had any weapons, except one, who held in his hand a stick, about two feet long and pointed at one end. 'I'hey were of common stature, but rather slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair which was as woolly as that of any native of (Guinea ; but they were not distinguished by remarkaljly thick lips nor Hat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagreeable ; most of them had their hair and beards smeared with red ointment, and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. They received our presents without the least appearance of satisfaction, and when some bread was offered them they either returned it or threw it away without even tasting it. They also refused some elephant fish, both raw and dressed. However, upon giving them some birds, they did not return these, and easily made us compre- hend that they were fond of such food. I had brouglit two pigs ashore with a view to leave them in the woods. The instant these came within reach they seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were carrying them off immediately, with no other apparent intention than to kill them. Being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of our visitors carried in his hand, I made signs to them to show me, and so far succeeded that one of them set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it from a distance of about twenty yards. But he had little reason to commend his dexterity, for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide of the mark. Omai, to show them how much superior our weapons were to theirs, then fired his musket at it, which alarmed them so much that, notwithstanding all he could do or say, they ran instantly into the woods. Thus ended our first interview with the natives. Immediately after their final retreat I ordered the two pigs — being a boar and a sow — to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay, and saw them left there, by the side of a fresh-water brook. A young bull and a cow, and some sheep and goats, were also at first intended to have been left by me, as an additional present to Van Diemen's Land. But I soon altered my intention, from a persuasion that the natives, incapable of THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF M entering into my views of improving their country, would destroy them. The morning of the 29th \vc had a dead cahn, which continued all day, and cffoctuiilly prevented our sailing. 1 therefore sent a party over to the cast point of the bay, to cut grass, and another, ^vhich I accompanied, to cut wood. We had observed several of the natives sauntering along the shore, which assured us that, though their consternation had made them leave us so abruptly the day before, they were convinced that wc intciided them no mischief, and were desirous of renewing the intercourse. We had not been long landed before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without expressing the least sign of fear or distrust. One of this company was conspicuously deformed, but was not more distinguishable by the hump on his back than by the drollery of his gestures, and the seeming humour of his speeches, which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we supposed, for our entertainment. His language appeared to me to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my first voyage, which is not extraordinary, since those we now saw and those we then visited differ in many other respects. Some of our present group wore round their necks three or four loose folds of small cord, made of the fur of some animal, and others of them had a narrow slip of the kangaroo skin tied round their ankles. I gave to each of them a string of beads and a medal, which they appeared to receive with some satisfaction. They seemed to set no value on iron, or iron tools, and were even ignorant of the use of fish-hooks, if we might judge of their manner of look- ing at some of ours, which we showed to them, though it is certain they derive no inconsiderable part of their subsistence from the sea. We saw, however, no vessels in which they could go on the water. Their habitations were little sheds or hovels, built of sticks and covered with bark. After staying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, I went over to the grass-cutters. Having seen the boats loaded, I returned on board to dinner, and some time after was joined by Lieutenant King. From him I learnt that soon after my departure several women and children made their appear- ance. These females wore a kangaroo skin tied over the shoulders and round the waist, apparently to support their children when carried on their backs, for in all other respects they were as naked CAPTAIN COOK, SI four and OLind \edal, rhcy orant ook- rtain sea. vater. and cding aving I time soon pear- ilders when laked as the men, and had their bodies tattooed in the same manner. They differed from the men in iriat as some of them had their heads completely shorn, in others this operation liad been performed on only one side, while the rest of them had all the upper part of the head shorn close, leaving a circle of hair all r;)und, somewhat like the tonsure of Romish priests. Many of the children had fine features and were thought pretty, but the same cannot be said of the persons of the women, especially those advanced in years. Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, spent the few days we remained in Adventure I5ay in examining the country. The only animal of the ([uadrupcd kind we got was a sort of opossum, about twice the size of a large rat. It is of a dusky colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty cast, and whitish below. About a third of the tail towards its tip is white, and bare imderneath, by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees in its search for berries. The kangaroo, without doubt, is a native of this island, as the people we met with had some pieces of their skins ; and we several times saw an animal, though indistinctly, in the woods, which, from its size, could be no other. In the woods, the principal sorts of birds are large brown hawks, or eagles, crows, nearly the same as ours in England, yellowish paroquets, and large pigeons ; there are also three or four small birds, one of which is of the thrush kind. On the shore were sevenJ common sea-gulls, a few black oyster- catchers, or sea-pies, and a pretty plover, of a stone colour, with a black hood. About the lake, behind the beach, a few wild ducks were seen, and some shags used to perch upon the high lealiess trees near the shore. The sea affords a more plentiful supply to the inhabitants, and at least as great a variety as the land. Of these, the elephant fish are the most numerous, and though inferior to many other hsh, were very palatable food. Superior in quality to the elephant fish was a sort partaking of the nature both of a round and a tlat fish, having the eyes placed very near each other, the fore part of the body very much flattened or depressed, and the rest rounded. It is of a brownish-sandy colour, with rusty spots on the upper part and below. P>om the quantity of slime it was always covered with, it seems to live after the manner of flat fish at the bottom. Upon the rocks are plenty of muscles and some other small shell-fish. There are also great numbers of sea-stars, some small limpets, and large quantities of sponge, one sort of which thrives on shore iDy the sea, 23 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF and has a most delicate texture. Among the insects are grass- hoppers, butterflies, and several sorts of small moths, finely varie- gated. There are two sorts of dragon-flies, gad-tlies, camel-flies, several sorts of spiders, and some scorpions, but the last are rather rare. The most troublesome, though not very numerous tribe of insects, are the mosquitoes, and a large black ant, the pain of whose bite, while it lasts, is almost intolerable. The inhabitants whom we met with here had little of that fierce and wild appearance common to people in their situation, but on the contrary seemed mild and cheerful, without reserve or jealousy of strangers. With respect to their personal activity or mental capacity, they do not seem to possess the first in any remarkable degree ; and as for the latter, they have apparently less than even the half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who have not invention sufficient to make clothing for defending themselves from the rigour of the climate, though furnished with the materials. Their colour is a dull black, and not quite so deep as that of the African negro. Their hair, however, is perfectly woolly, and is clotted or divided into small parcels like that of the Hottentots, with the use of some sort of grease, mixed with a red paint or ochre, which they smear in great abundance over their heads. Their noses, though not flat, are broad and full ; their eyes are of a mid- dling size, with the white less clear than in us, and though not remarkably quick or piercing, such as give a frank, cheerful cast to the whole countenance. Their mouths are rather wide, and they wear their beards long, and clotted with paint in the same manner as the hair on their heads. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, a light breeze springing up at west, we weighed anchor and put to sea from Adventure Bay. We pursued our course to the eastward, without meeting with anything worthy of note, till the night of the 6th of February, when a marine belonging to the Discovery fell overboard, and was never seen afterwards. At daybreak on the i6th I set out with a party of men in five boats to collect food for our cattle. Captain Gierke, and several of the ofiicers, also Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceeded about three leagues up the Sound and then landed on the east side, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grass as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the Sound, we visited Grass Gove, memorable as the scene of i \ CAPTAIN COOK, 23 the massacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Whilst we were at this place our curiosity prompted us to enquire into the circum- stances attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen, and Omai was made use of as interpreter for this purpose. The natives present answered all the questions that were put to them on the subject with out reserve, and like men who are under no dread of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty; for we already knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy trans- action. They told us, that while our people were sitting at dinner, surrounded by several of the natives, some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which they were beaten. This being resentea a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only two muskets that were fired ; but before our people had time to discharge a third, or to load again those that had been fired, the natives rushed in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers, and put them all to death. We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of the boats with grass, celery, and scurvy-grass, we embarked to return to the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock the next morning ; and it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it afterwards blew a perfect storm. In the evening the gale ceased, and the wind having veered to the east, brought with it fair weather. By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had settled themselves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the ships while our people were busy melting some seal-blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train-oil than our friends here seemed to be. They relished the very skim- mings of the kettle, but a little of the pure stinking oil was a delicious feast. Having got on board as much hay and grass as we judged sufficient to serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood and water of both ships, on the 24th of February we weighed anchor and stood out of the cove. While we were unmooring and getting under sail, many of the natives came to take their leave of us, or rather to obtain, if they could, some additional presents from us before our departure. Accordingly, I gave to two of their chiefs, two pigs, a boar, and a sow. They made me a promise not to kill them, though I must own I put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furncaux sent on shore here, and which soon after fell into the hands of the natives, H THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF I was now told were all dead ; but I was afterwards informed that Tiratou, a chief, had a great many cocks and hens in his pos- session, and one of the sows. We had not been long at anchor near Motuara before three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from the south-east side of the Sound, and a brisk trade was carried on with them for the curiosities of this place. In one of these canoes was Kahoora. This was the third time he had visited us without betraying the smallest appearance of fear. Next morning, he returned again with his whole family — men, women, and children to the number of twenty and upwards. Omai was the first who acquainted me with his being alongside the ship, and desired to know if he should ask him to come on board. 1 told him he might, and accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin, saying, " There is Kahoora : kill him ! " He afterwards expostulated with me very earnestly. " Why do you not kill him ? You tell me if a man kills another in England that he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet you will not kill him, though many of his countrymen desire it, and it would be very good.'' Omai's arguments, though specious enough, having no weight with me, I desired him to ask the chief why he had killed Captain Furneaux's people. At thi5 question Kahoora folded his arms, hung down his head, and looked hke one caught in a trap, and 1 firmly believe he expected instant death ; but no sooner was he assured of his safety than he became cheerful. He did not, however, seem wilhng to give me an answer to the question that had been put to him till I had again and again re- peated my promise that he should not be hurt. Then he ventured to tell us that one of his countrymen having brought a stone hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would neither return it nor give up anything for it, on which the owner of it snatched up the bread as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Polygamy is allowed amongst these people, and it is not uncom- mon for a man to have two or three wives. The women are marriageable at a very early age ; and it would appear that one who is unmarried is but in a forlorn state. Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpetual ; for it appears from their number of weapons and dexterity in using them, that war is their principal profession. Before they begin the onset they join in a war-song, to which they all keep exactest time, and soon raise their passions to a th wl to ch CAPTAIN COOK, 25 a degree of frantic fury, attended with the most horrid distortion of the eyes, mouths, and tongues, to strike terror into their enemies, which makes them appear to those who have not been accustomed to such a practice more Uke demons than men, and would almost chill the boldest with fear. After the battle succeed the horrid orgies of cannibahsm, when, after cutting in pieces, even while yet alive, the bodies of their enemies, and dressing them on a fire, they devour the flesh, not only without reluctance, but with pecuHar satisfaction. On the 25th of February we sailed from New Zealand, and had no sooner lost sight of the land than our two young adventurers repented heartily of the step they had taken. All the soothing en- couragement we could think of availed but httle. They wept both in public and private, and made their lamentations in a kind of song, which was expressive of the praises of their country. Thus they continued for many days ; but at length their native country and their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us as if they had been born amongst us. On the 29th of March, as we were standing to the north-east, the Discovery made the signal of seeing land, which we soon dis- covered to be an island of no great extent. On approaching the shore, we could perceive with our glasses that several of the natives were armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening, or, as some on board interpreted their attitudes, with invitations to land. Most of them appeared naked, except, having a sort of girdle, which, being brought up between the thighs, covered that part of the body. But some of them had pieces of cloth of different colours, white, striped, or chequered, which they wore as a garment thrown about their shoulders, and almost all of them had a white wrapper about their heads, not unlike a turban. They were of a tawny colour, and of a middling stature. At this time a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the further end of the beach, and putting off with two men, paddled towards us, when I brought to. They stopped short, however, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheitean language, in some measure quieted their apprehensions. They then came near enough to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece ci' wood and thrown into the canoe. Omai, perhaps improperly, put the question to them, whether they ever ate human flesh t which they answered in the 26 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF negative with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an island, which lies to the north-eastward, who sometimes came to invade their country. They afterwards took hold of a rope, but still would not venture on board. Mourooa was lusty and well made, but not very tall. His features were agreeable, and his disposition seemingly no less so, for he made several droll gesticulations which indicated both good-nature and a share of humour. His colour was nearly of the same cast with ihat common to the people of Southern Europe. The other man was not so handsome. Both of them had strong straight hair of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore girdles of a substance made from the Morns papyri/era, in the same manner as at the other islands of this ocean. They had on a kind of sandals made of a grassy substance inter- woven, and as supposed, intended to defend their feet from the rough coral rock. Their beards were long, and the inside of their arms, from the shoulders to the elbows, and some other parts, were punctured or tattooed after the manner of the inhabi- tants of almost all the other islands in the South sea.o The lobe of their ears was slit to such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads which he had received from us, and the same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely twisted, hanging about his neck, which was the only orna- ment we observed. The canoe they came in was not above lo feet long, and very narrow, but both strong and neatly made. They paddled either end of it forward indifferently. While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the shore, great numbers of the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed. Mourooa, who was in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As many of them complied I judged he must be a person of some consequence among them ; indeed, if we understood him right, he was the king's brother. wSo great was the curiosity of several of the natives that they took to the water, and, swimming off to the boats, came on board them without reserve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out, and still niore difficult to prevent them carrying off everything they could lay their hands upon. At length, when they i CAPTAIN COOK, 27 same hair, orna- [o feet They perceived that we were returning to the ships, they all left us except our original visitor, Mourooa ; he, though not without evi- dent signs of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accomprnied me on board the ship. The cattle and other new objects that presented themselves to our visitor did not strike him with much surprise. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own safety to allow him to attend to other things. I could get but little information from him, and therefore, after he had made a short stay, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As soon as he got out of the cabin he happened to stumble over one of the goats. His curiosity now overcoming his fear, he stopped, looked at it, and asked Omai what bird this was, and not receiving an immediate answer from him, he repeated the question to some of the people upon deck. The boat having conveyed him pretty near to the surf, he leaped into the sea ^ and swam ashore. He had no sooner landed than a multitude of his countrymen gathered round him as if in eager curiosity to learn * from him what he had seen, and in this situation remained when we lost sight of them. After leaving Mangeea, as this island was called, on the after- noon of the 30th of March, we continued our course northward all that night and till noon on the 31st, when we again saw land in the direction of north-east by north, di:'tant eight or ten leagues, and next mornincr vve iiot abreast of its north end. I sent three armed boats to look for anchoring ground and a landing-place. In the meantime we worked up under the island with the ships. Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single canoes coming from the shore. They first went to the Disco7'c?y, she being the nearest ship ; and soon after three of the canoes came alongside the Resolution^ each conducted by one man. They are long and narrow, and supported by outriggers. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our visitors, who gave us a few cocoa-nuts upon our asking for them, though they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they had received from us, for they seemed to have no idea of bartering, nor did they appear to estimate any of our presents at a high rate. With a little persuasion one of them came on board, and the other two, en- couraged by his example, soon followed him. Their whole behaviour denoted that they were quite at ease. After their departure another canoe arrived, conducted by a man 1 2S THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF who brought a bunch of plantains specially as a present to me, for whom he asked by name, which he had learnt from Omai, who was sent before us in a boat with Mr. Gore. In return for this civility I gave him an axe and apiece of red cloth, when he paddled back to the shore well satisfied. I afterwards understood from Omai that this present was sent from the king or principal chief of the island. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came towards us, who, as they drew near the ship, recited some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of their number first standing up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finished their solemn chant, they came alongside and asked for the chief. As soon as I showed myself, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the ship, and the principal person in the canoe made me an additional present of a piece of matting. Our visitors were conducted into the cabin and to other parts of the ship, where some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprise, though nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horses, nor did they form the least conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of their understanding, for they gave us to understand that they knew them to be birds. 1 made a present to my new friend of what I thought would be most acceptable to him, but on his going away he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. I afterwards understood that he was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this island could not boast. I despatched Lieut. Gore with three boats, two from the Resolic- Hon and one from the Discovoy. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him, and also Omai, who went in his boat as interpreter. The ships being a full league from the island when the boats put oft", it was noon before we could work up to it. We ihen perceived a prodigious number of the natives abreast of the boats. In order to observe their motions, and to be ready to give such assistance as our people might want, I kept as near the shore as was prudent. Some of the islanders now and then came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, which they exchanged for anything that was offered to them. These occa- sional visits served to lessen my solicitude about the people who had landed, for though we could get no information from our visitors, yet their venturing on board seemed to imply that their f CAPTAIN COOK, 29 me, for ai, who for this )addled id from ;hief of twelve recited ler first When de and d a few incipal liece of other with a for a horses, 3ut the mding, birds. >uld be rather he was L could Rcsohc- 10 had in his island p to it. east of ady to iar the 1 came h they \ occa- le who )m our t their countrymen on shore had not made an improper use of the con- fidence placed in them. At length, a little before sunset, we had the satisfaction of seeing the boats put off. When they got on board, 1 found that Mr. Gore himself, Omai, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney, were the only persons wlio had landed. Omai was Mr. Gore's interpreter ; but that was not the only ser- vice he performed this day, for being asked by the natives a great many questions concerning us, his answers, according to the account he gave me, were not a little marvellous ; for instance, he told them that our country had ships as large as their island, on board which were instruments of war of such dimensions that several people might sit within them ; and that one of these was sufficient to crush the whole island at one shot. This led them to inquire what sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He said that though they were but small in comparison with those he had just described, yet, with such as they were, we could, with the greatest ease, and at tlie distance the island and kill the ship: soul ere from the shore, destroy every soul m it. They persevered in their inquiries regarding the means by which this could be done, and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket, which were produced ; the balls and the gunpowder were submitted to inspection, and to supply the defects of his description. In the centre of the circle formed by the natives, the inconsiderable quantity of gunpowder, collected from his cartridges, was properly disposed upon the ground, and set alight by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven where the dinner was dressing. The sudden blast, and loud report, the mingled flame and smoke that instantly succeeded, now filled the whole asseiibly with astonishment. They no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all Omai had said. This probably induced them to liberate the gentlemen, whom they, at first, appeared inclined to detain. Omai found three of his countrymen here, whose story is an affecting one, as related by him. About twenty persons had em- barked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neigh- bouring island, Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neither reach the latter nor get back to the former. The intended passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was very scanty, and soon exhausted. The hardships they suffered, while driven along by the storm, are not to be conceived, and they 30 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF passed many days without sustenance. Their numbers gradually diminished, until', worn out by famine and fatigue, four only su.'vived, when the canoe upset ; however, they kept hanging by the side of the vessel till Providence brought them in sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes and brought them ashore. Of the four one was since dead, but the three survivors spoke highly of the treatment they here met with ; and so well satisfied were they with their situation; that they refused the offer made to them, at Omai's request, of giving them a passage on board our ships, to restore them to their native islands. This will serve to explain better than a thousand conjectures how the detached parts of the earth, and in particular how the islands of the South Seas, may have been first peopled, especially those that lie remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other. With a gentle breeze at east we got up with Wateeoo on the 3rd of April, and I immediately despatched Mr. Gore with two boats to endeavour to procure some food for our cattle. As there seemed to be no inhabitants here to obsfuct our taking away what- ever we might think proper, our boats no sooner reached the west side of the island than they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got safe on shore. The supply obtained here consisted of about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship ; we also got our cattle some grass, and a quantity of the " wharra" tree, as it is called at Otaheite. Though there were at this time no settled inhabitants upon the island, indubitable marks remained of its being at least occasionally frequented ; in particular, a few empty huts were found, in one of which Mr. Gore left a hatchet and some nails, to the value of what we took av/ay. As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to the northward. Although Hervey's Island, discovered in 1773, was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet we did not sight it till day- break in the morning. As we drew near it we observed several canoes put off towards the ships, each containing from three to six men. They stopped at the distance of about a stone's throw from the ship, and it was some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come alongside ; but no entreaties could induce any of them to venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour by no means indicated a disposition to trust us or treat us well. We afterwards learnt that they had attempted to take some oars out of the Discovery s boat that lay alongside, and struck a 1 CAPTAIN COOK. adually jf.vived, e of the ; of this ashore. ; highly id were 3 them, hips, to explain ; of the IS, may om any on the 'ith two LS there ly what- he west and his isted of r cattle lUed at ibitants at least s were lails, to to the [73, was ill day- several e to six )w from il upon any of morous Dr treat :e some truck a 31 man who endeavoured to prevent them. They also cut away, with a shell, a net with meat which hung over the ship's stern, and absolutely refused Lo restore it, though wc afterwards purchased it of them. Those who were about our ship behaved in the same daring manner. At the same time they immediately showed a knowledge of bartering^ and sold some fish they had for small nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them " goorc." They also caught with the greatest avidity bits of j^aper or anything else that was thrown to them. These people seemed to differ, as much in ])crson as in disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo, though the distance between the two islands is not great. Their colour was of a deeper cast, and several had a fierce, rugged aspect resembhng the natives of New Zealand. The polished shell of a pearl oyster, hung about their neck, was the only personal decoration that we observed amongst them, for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this ocean, of puncturing or tattooing their bodies. Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of their being- of the same common race, and their language ap- proached still nearer to the dialect of Otaheite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeca. On the 7th of April I steered west by south, with a fine breeze easterly. 1 proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa, thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the cattle to last till we should reach that island ; but about noon on the next day, those faint breezes that had attended and retarded us so long, again returned, and I found it necessary to haul more to the north, to get into the latitude of Palmerston and Savage Islands, discovered in 1774, during my last voyage, so that, if necessity required it, we might have recourse to them. At length, at daybreak on the I3tli, we saw Palmerston Island, distant about five leagues, though we did not reach it till eight o'clock the next morning. I then sent four boats, with an officer in each to search the coast for the most convenient landing-place. The boats first examined the south-easternmost part, and failing there, ran down to the east, where we had the satisfaction of seeing them land. About one o'clock one of the boats came on board, laden with scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees, which afforded a feast for the ca.ttle. Before evening I went ashore in a small boat, accompanied by Captain Gierke, and landing in a small creek. 32 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF fourd everybody hard at work. Upon the bushes that front the sea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men-of-war birds, tropic birds, and two sorts of boobies, which, at this time, were laying their eggs, and so tame that they suffered us to take them off with our hands. At one part of the reef, which looks into or bounds the lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even with the sur- face, which arfords, perhaps, or.e of the most enchanting prospects that nature has anywhere produced. Its base was fixed to the shore, but reached so far in, that it could not be seen, so that it seemed to be suspended in the water, which deepened so suddenly that, at the distance of a few yards, there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea was, at this time, quite unruffled ; and the sun shining brightly, exposed the various sorts of coral in the most beauti- ful order. This scene was enlivened by numerous species of fishes gliding along in apparent security. There were no traces of inhabi- tants having ever been here, if we except a small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which might have drifted from some other island. After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore with a party to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to commence work early next morning. Next day was accordingly spent, as the precedi ig one had been, in collecting food for the cattle. Having secured a sufficient supply by sunset, I ordered everybody on board, but there being little or no wind, I determined to wait, anc to employ the following day in trying to get some cocoa-nuts from the next island, where we could observe that those trees were in greater abundance than where we had already landed. With this view, I went with the boats to the west side of the island, and ha\ '-.g landed with little difficulty, immediately set the people to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great abundance. Omai, who was with me, caught with a scoop net, in a very short time, as much fish as served the whole party on shore for dinner, besides sending some to both ships. Here were also great abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war and tropic birds, so that we fared sumptuously. Omai was of the greatest use in these excursions, for he not only caught the fish, but dressed them and the birds we killed in an oven with heated stones, after the fashion of his country, with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. We found this islet nearly a half larger than the other, and almost en- tirely covered with cocoa-palms, so that we got there above twelve ( CAPTAIN COOK. 33 J that front the |of men-of-war ., at this time, led us to take the lake that with the sur- Iting prospects Is fixed to the teen, so that it d so suddenly seven or eight \ ; und the sun he most beauti- pecies of fishes aces of inhabi- iecc of a canoe ifted from some :ned on board, horc, in order to Next day was L collecting food lunsct, 1 ordered d, I determined ng to get some serve that those already landed. de of the island, y set the people ndance. Omai, y short time, as dinner, besides It abundance of ) that we fared hese excursions, nd the birds wc •n of his country, eat credit. We , and almost en- jre above twelve I hundred cocoa-nuts, which were equally divided amongst the whole crew. The nine or ten low islets, comprehended under the name of Palnicrbton Island, may be reckoned the heads or summits of the rccT of coral rocks that connects them together, covered only with ;i thin coat of sand, yet clothed, as already observed, with trees and plants. The heat, which had been great for a month, became now much more disagreeable from the close rainy weather, and, froni the moisture attending it, threatened soon to be noxious. However, it is remarkable that though the only fresh provisions we had received since lea\ing the Cajie of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, there was not a single person sick on board from the con- stant use of salt food, or \ irissitudes of climate. In the night of the 24th of April we passed Savage Island, which I had discovered in 1774. I steered for the south, and then hauled up for Annamooka. It was no sooner daylight than we were visited by six or seven canoes from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce, but I ordered that no curiosi- ties should be purchased till the ships had been supplied with pro- visions, and leave had been given for that purpose. Knowing also, from experience, that if all our people traded with the natives according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I ordered that particular persons should manage the traffic both on board and on shore, prohibiting others to interfere. Before mid- day, Mr. King, who had been sent to Kamango, returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots, and some grass for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Kamango, the inhabitants of which did not seem to be numerous. Their huts, which stood close to each other within a plantain walk, were but indifferent, and not far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh water, tolerably good, but there was no appearance of any stream. The chief of the island, named Tooboulangee, and another, whose name was Taipa, came on board with Mr. King. They brought with them a hog as a present to me, promising more the next day, and they kept their word. On the 6th we were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose name was Feenou, and whom Taipa introduced to us as king c 34 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF I ofalltlic I'^riond'y Isles. All the natives made their obeisance to liim by bow inj; iheir heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they also louched wiih each hand, tirst with the palm and then with the back part ; and there would be little room to suspect that a person received with so much respect could be anythin<^'' less than the king. In the afternoon I went lo i>ay this great man a visit, having iirst received a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his servants. As soon as I landed he came up to me, and appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, with more of the European cast of features than any I had yet seen here. After a short stay, our new visitor and five or six of his attendants accompanied me on board. I gave suitable presents to them all, and entertained them in such a manner as I thought would be most agreeable. In the evening 1 attended them on shore in my boat, into which the chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents he had received from me. The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had stolen out of the ship a large junk axe ; I now aj)plied to Feenou, who was my guest on the 8th, to exert his authority to get it restored to me, and so implicitly was he obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. These people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they were, and c\en some of the chiefs did not refrain from stealing. V)n the lower class a flogging seemed to make no greater impression ihan it would have done upon the mainmast, and when any of them ihappcned to be caught in the act, their superiors, far from inter- ceding for them, would often advise us to kill them. As this was a punishment we did not choose to infiict, they generally escaped without any punishment, until Captain Clerk, .it length hit upon a mode of treatment which appeared to have some effect. He put them under the hands of the barber, and completely shaved their heads, thus pointing them out as objects of ridicule to their country- men, and enabling our people to deprive them of future opportuni- ties to repeat their rogueries, by keeping them at a distance. P'eenou, understanding that 1 meant to proceed directly to Tonga- taboo, importuned mc strongly to alter this plan, to which he ex- pressed as much aversion as if he had some particular interest to promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended an iskmd, or rather a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to the north-east. There, he assured us, we could be supplied P t( h it it n.j&iitiiilTUnniaiBtwwMi CAPTAIN COOK. 35 obeisance to ''cs of which nd tlicn with '•''P^-^-t that a '»«■ icss than man a visit, brought on c came up to ill, but thin, had yet seen ^f six of his - presents to i-i I thought lem on shore ^c put, as a the natives V apphcd to lioiity to get that it was ople gave us thieves they >m steahng. 1" impression ''^ny of them from inter- 3 this was a lly escaped hit upon a t- He put laved their -ir country- opportuni- nce. ' to Tonga- ich he ex- intertst to lie warrnly d Plapaee, e supplied f plentifully with provisions, in the easiest manner ; and to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in person. He carried his point, and Hapaee was made choice of for our next sfition ; as it had never been visited by any luiropean ships, the examination of it became an object with me. After some unimportant transactions, at daybreak, in the morning of the i6th, we steered north-east for Hapaee, which was now in si;^ht. Next day we came to an anchor, and the ships were soon iilled with the natives. 'J'hey brought hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, ^\•hich they exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. I went on shore, accompanied by Omai and I-'eenou, landing at the north part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the sliip's station. The chief conducted me to a hut situated close to the sea-beacii, which I had seen brought tb.ither but a few moments before, for our reception ; Feenou, Omai^ and I seated ourselves, while the other chiefs and the multitude formed a circle on the outside, and also sat down. I was then asked how long I intended to slay? On my replying five days, Taipa was ordered to come and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then harangued them in a sijcech mostly dictated by Feenou ; the purport of it, as 1 learned from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to remain with them a {^\n days ; that, during my stay, they must not steal anything, or molest me in any other way ; and that it was expected that tiiey should bring hogs, fowls, fruits, (Sic, to the ships, where they would receive in exchange for them such and such articles, which he enumerated. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me, that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unpre- pared for this ; and gave him some articles that far exceeded his expectations. My liberality brought on me new demands, of the same kind, from the chiefs of other isles who were present, and from Taipa himself. After viewing the watering-place we returned to our former sta- tion, w'here I found a baked hog and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be carried on board for my dinner. T invited Feenou and his friends to partake of it, and we embarked for the ship, though none but himself sat down with us at the table. After dinner I conducted them on shore, and before I returned on board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle and a quantity of yams. Our supjjly of provisions was copious, for in the course of the day wc got, by C 2 36 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF ■ \\ m barter, alongside the ship, about twenty small hogs, besmes fruit and roots. Next morning early, Feenou and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit was to require my presence upon the island. I saw a large concourse of people already assembled, and guessed that something more than ordinary was in agitation, but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. I had not long landed before a hundred of the natives appeared in sight, and advanced laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited their burthens in two piles, or heaps, on our left. Soon after a number of others arrived, bearing the same kind of articles, which were collected into two heaps on the right ; to these were tied two pigs and six fowls, and to those on the left six pigs and two tvrtles. As soon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down in order, and disposed to the best advantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after a number of men entered the circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, made with green branches of the cocoa-nut tree ; they paraded about for a few minutes and then retired, one half to one side and the other half to the other side, seating themselves before the spectators. Soon after they suc- cessively entered the lists, and entertained us with single combats : one champion rising up and stepping forward from one side, chal- lenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures more than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge was accepted, which was generally the case, the two combatants put themselves in proper attitude, and then began the engagem.ent, which continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over the victor squatted himself down, facing the chief, and then rose up and retired. At the same time some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, applauded them in a few words, and the multitude, especially those on the side to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he acquired in two or three huzzas. This entertainment was now and then suspended for a few minutes, and during these intervals there were looth wrestling and boxing matches. The first were performed in the same manner as at Otaheite, and the second differed very little from the method practised in England. But what struck us most with surprise was to see a couple of lusty wenches step forth and begin boxing, with- gf, besiaes fruit li, who scarcely :ame on board, upon the island, ed, and guessed n, but could not ig landed before advanced laden »d sugar-canes, aps, on our left, e same kind of right ; to these the left six pigs an of provisions advantage, the ■ge circle round -d the circle, or branches of the lutes and then the other side, ifter they suc- ingle combats : one side, chal- 3 more than by f the challenge vo combatants le engagement, nquered, or till It was over the len rose up and emed to sit as ude, especially ated the glory ed for a few wrestling and nie manner as 1 the method ! surprise was boxing, with- CAPTAIN COOIC 37 out the least ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This contest, however, did not last above half a minute before one of them gave in ; the conquering heroine received the same applause from the spectators which they bestowed on the successful combat- ants of the other sex. We expressed some dislike at this part of the entertainment, which, however, did not prevent the other females from entering the lists. They appeared to be girls of spirit, and would certainly have given each other a good drubbing if the old women had not interposed between them. All these combats were exhibited in the midst of at least 3,000 people, and were conducted with the greatest good humour on all sides. As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me that the heaps of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai, and those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added that I might take them on board whenever it was convenient, but that there would be no oc- casion to set any of our people as guards over them, as I might be assured that not a single cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved, for I left everything behind, and returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the chief with me ; and when the provi- sions were removed on board in the afternoon, not a single article was missing. There was as much as loaded two boats, and I could not but be struck with the munificence of Feenou, for this present far exceeded any I had ever received from any of the sovereigns of the various islands I had visited in the Pacific Ocean, I lost no time in convincing our friend that I was not insensible of his liberality, for, before he quitted the ship, I bestowed upon him such commodities as I guessed were most valuable in his estimation. P'eenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through the military exercise ; and as I was desirous of gratifying his curiosity, I ordered them all ashore from both ships in the morning. After they had performed various evolutions and fired several volleys, with which the numerous body of spectators seemed wtII pleased, the chief entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness far surpassing the specimen we had gi^en of our difterent manceuvres. It was a kind of dance so entirely different from any- thing I had ever seen, that I can give no descripiion that will con- vey any tolerable idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men, and 105 persons took part in it. Each of them had in his 1 3« THIRD AND. LAST VOYAGE OF hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, two feet and a half in length, with a small handle and a thin blade, so that: they were very light. With these instruments they made many and various flourishes, each of which was accompanied with a dilTerent movement. At first the performers ranged themselves in three lines, and by various evolutions each man changed his station in such a manner, that those who had been in the rear came to the front. Nor did they remain long in the same position. At one time they extended themselves in one line ; they then formed in a semicircle, and lastly in two square columns. While this last movement was executing, one of them advanced and performed an antic dance before me, with which the whole ended. The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather tv;o hollow logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced by beating on them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me that the dancers were much assisted by these sounds, but by a chorus of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the same time. Their song was not destitute of pleasing melody, and all their corresponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the numerous body of dancers seemed to act as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that such a per- formance would have met with universal applause in a European theatre ; and it so far exceeded any attempt we had made to enter- tain them, that they seemed to pique themselves upon the superior- ity they had over us. As to our musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except the drum, and even that they did not think equal to their own. In order to give them a more favourable opinion of English amusements, and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest sense of our superior attainments, I directed some fireworks to be got ready, and after it was dark played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Our water and sky rockets, in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all conception, and the scale was now turned in our favour. This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional motive to proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular dexterity; nnd our fireworks were no sooner ended, than a succession of dances began. As a prelude to them, a band of music or chorus of eighteen men seated themselves before us in the centre of the circle. Four or five of this band had pieces of large bam- b o) fj |ike a paddle, id a thin blade, nts they made ■ompanied with red themselves n changed his the rear came position. At y then formed ^Vhile tliis last performed an The musical lollow Jogs of by beating on me that the y a chorus of le same time, ^nd all their skill, that the ^ere one great t such a per- ■ a European lade to enter- the superior- ey held none ^en that they 1 of English ed with the me fireworks ^ off in the Lirse of their pleased and le was now Lirnish them , 5f their very 'ded, than a : nd of music ^ the centre iarge bam- CAPTAIN COOK. 39 boo, from three to five or six feet lonc^, the upper end open, but the other end closed by one of the joints. With this closed end tlie performers kept constantly striking the ground, though slowly, thus producing different notes, according to the different lengths of the instruments, but all of them of the hollow or bass sort ; to counter- act which, a person kept sti iking quickly, and with two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split and laid along the ground, and by that means furnishing a tone as acute as those produced by the others were grave. The rest of the band, as well as those who per- formed upon the bamboo, sang a slow and soft air, which so tem- pered upon the harsher notes of the above instrument, that no bystander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied modulation of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power and pleasing effect of this simple harmony. Soon after they had finished^ n ne women exhibited themselves, and sat down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then ^ose and struck the first of these women on tliC back with both fists joined ; he proceeded in the same manner to the second and third, but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident or design, I cannot tell, instead of the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a person rose instantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head, and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder. But this did not save the other five women from so odd a ceremony ; for a person succeeded him, \vho treated them in the same manner. Their disgrace did not end here, for when they danced, they had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. On the morning of the 23rd, as we were going to unmoor, in order to leave the inland, Fcenou, and his prime niliuster, Taipa, came alonf^side in a sailiuir canoe, and informed me that thc^' were setting out for Vavaoo, an island which they said was about two days' sail to the northward of Hapaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was to get for me an additional suftply of hogs, and some red-fcathercd caps for Omai to ca-iry to Otaheite, where they are in high esteem. Fecnou assured me that he should be back in four or five days, and desired me not to sail till his return, when he promised he would accompany me to Tongataboo. 1 thought this a good opportunity to acquir? some knowledge of Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither with the ships : but he seemed not to approve of the plan, and, by way of 40 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF diverting me from it, told me that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about it. 1 therefore consented to wait in my present station until his return, and he immediately set out. In my walk on the 25th I happened to step into a house, where I found a woman shaving a child's head with a shark's tooth stuck into the end of a piece of stick. I observed that she first wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, applying her instrument to that part which she had previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child, although the hair was taken off as close as if one of our razors had been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of those singular instruments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent, substitute. However, the men of these islands have recourse to another contrivance when they shave their beards. The operation is performed with two shells, one of which they place under a part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part off. In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is indeed rather tedious, but not painful, and there are men amongst them who seem to profess the trade. It was as common, while we were here, to see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped off after the fashion of Hapaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be shaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the pro- duce of the island was now brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and in the afternoon of the 26th of May, I hauled into a bay that hes between the south end of Lefooga and the north end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored. About noon a large saihng canoe came under our stern, in which was a person named Futtafaihe, or Poolaho, or both, who, as the natives then on board told us, was "l^ing of Tongataboo and all the neighbouring islands. It being my interest, as well as my inclina- tion, to pay court to all the great men without making inquiry into the validity of their assumed titles, I invited Poolaho on board. He brought with him, as a present, two fat hogs, though not so fat as himself. If weight of body could give weight in ran^- or power, he was certainly the most eminent man in that respect we had seen. I found him to be a sedate, sensible perso*^.. He viewed the ship and the several new objects with uncommon attention, and asked many pertinent questions ; one of which was, what could induce us to visit these islands ? After he had satisfied his curiosity in look- ing at the cattle and other novelties which he met with on deck, I CAPTAIN COOK, ?r harbour nor in my present house, where I :'s tooth stuck le first wetted niment to that ion seemed to :en off as close ged by what I truments upon However, the trivance when med with two Jard, and with n this manner indeed rather ?st them who we were here, sd off after the =>n board to be r? of the pro- I resolved to 26th of May, : Lefooga and tern, in which who, as the 'O and all the s my inclina- ■ inquiry into to on board, gh not so fat r>^' or power, we had seen, 'ed the ship ti, and asked Id induce us 'sity in Jook- h on deck, I 41 desired him to walk down into the cabin. To this his attendants objected, saying, that if he were to accept of the invitation, it must happen that people would walk over his head ; but the chief him- self, less scrupulous in this respect than his attendants, waived all ceremony and walked down. Poolaho sat down with us to dinner, but he ate little and drank less. When he arose from the table he desired me to accompany him ashore. I attended him in my own boat, having first made presents to him of such articles as I observed he valued most, and were even beyond his expectation lo receive. I was not dis- appointed in my view of thus securing his friendship, for the moment the boat reached the beach, he ordered two more hogs to be brought and delivered to my people. He was then carried out of the boat by some of his own people upon a board resembling a hand-barrow, and went and seated himself in a small house near the shore, which seemed to have been erected there for his accom- modation. He placed me at his side, and his attendants seated themselves in a semicircle before us outside the house. Behird the chief, or rather on one side, sat an old woman with a sort of fan in her hand, whose office it was to prevent his being pestered with the flies. I stayed till several of his attendants left him, first making him obeisance by bowing the head down to the sole of his foot, and touching or tapping the same with the upper and under side of the fingers of both hands. Others, who were not in the circle, came, as it seemed, on purpose and paid him this mark of respect, and then retired without speaking a word. I was charmed with the decorum that was observed, and had nowhere seen the hke, not even among more civilised nations. Poolaho,-theking, as I shall now call him, came on board betimes next morning, and brought, as a present to me, one of their caps, or rather bonnets, composed of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, with the red feathers of the paroquets wrought upon them or jointly with them. They are made so as to tie upon the forehead, without any crown, and have the form of a semicircle, whose radius is 18 or 20 inches.- At daybreak the next morning I weighed with a fine breeze, and stood to the westward with a view to return to Anna- mooka. We were followed by several sailing canoes, in one of which was the king. He quitted us in a short time, but left his brother and five of his attendants on board. We had also the com- pany of a chief, just then arrived from Tongataboo, whose name 42 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF was Tooboiieitoa. The moment he arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and five more who came with him would sleep on board ; so that I had now my cabin filled with visitors. They brought plenty of provisions with them, for which they always had suitable returns. About noon next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us that several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late stormy weather, and that everybody on board perished. This melancholy tale did not seem to affect any of his countrymen that heard it ; and as to ourselves, we were by this time too well ac- quainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. The following morning, Poolaho and the other chiefs, who had been wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened at this time to be ashore, in company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the impropriety of his conduct in assuming a character that did not belong to him. I left him to visit this greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him : but, as everyone hastened to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty fast. I had the most con- vincing proof of P^ecnou's inferiority, for he placed himself amongst the rest that sat before Poolaho as attendant on his majesty. Both he and Poolaho went on board with me to dinner, but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin. The king had before told us that this would happen, and it now appeared that Feenou could not eat or drink in his royal presence. P^cenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood, but he was no longer the leading man. However, we still found, him to be a person of consequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, by the continuance of his valuable presents. We now heard that there were other great men of the island whom we had not yet seen ; in particular they mentioned a person, consider- ably over sixt}-, named Alareewagee, and another called Toobou, who, they said, were of the lirst consequence. And so I found them to be when 1 paid them a visit on shore, which they returned — coming off to the ship accompanied by three or four inferior chiefs. When dinner Avas laid upon the table, not one of them would sit down or eat anything that was served up ; on expressing my sur- prise at this, they were all taboo, as they said, which signifies that a thing is forbidden. Dinner being over, and having gratified their CAPTAIN COOK. 43 lis canoe away, "m -would sleep isitors. They ley always had 0. He told us •visions, which t, owing to the irished. This untrymen that ■ too well ac- such a story, who had been ie to be ashore, snsible of the ' that did not vhom I found astened to pay the most con- rnself amongst lajesty. Both only the latter he usual way, retired out of lappen, and it oyal presence. Thood, but he -ind him to be his opulence resents. We nd whom we :on, consider- lled TooboLi, I found them y returned— iferior chiefs, em would sit sing my sur- signifies that ratified their curiosity by showing to them every part of the ship, I then con- ducted them ashore. As soon as the boat reached the beach, P^eenou and some others stepped out. Young I'uttafaihc following them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now paid the heir- apparent the same obeisance, and in the same manner that I had seen it paid to the king. By this time I had acquired some certain information about the relative situations of the several great men, whose names have been so often mentioned. I now knew that Mareewagce and Toobou were brothers. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons, and Tooboueiloa was another. Next day was fixed upon by jMareewagee for giving a grand haiva, or entertainment, to which we were all invited. P'or this purpose a large space had been cleared before the temporary hut of the chief, near our post, as an area where the per'jrmances were to be exhibited. In the morning great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying upon his shoulders a pole, about six feet long, with a yam suspended at each end. These yams and poles were deposited on each side of the area, so as to form two large heaps, decorated with different sorts of small fish, and piled up to the greatest advantage : they were Tvlareewagee's present to Captain Gierke and me. Everything being thus pre- pared, about eleven o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which they called " mai." The music consisted, at first, of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down ; and amidst them were placed three instruments, which we called drums from their effect, and the natives "naffa;" these instruments produce a rude though loud and powerful sound. 'I'he first dance consisted of four ranks of twenty-four men each, lioldmg in their hands a little thin light wooden instrument, about two feet long, and in shape not unlike a small oblong paddle. With these, which are called *^ pagge," tliey made a great many different motions, all which were accompanied by corresponding attitudes of the body. Their motions were at first slow, but quickened as the drums beat faster, and the whole time they recited sentences in a musical tone, which were answered by the chorus ; at the end of a short space they all joined, and finished with a shout ; then the rear rank, dividing, sliifted themselves very slowly round each end, and meeting in the front, formed the first rank, the whole number continuing to recite the sentences as before. The other ranks did the same successively, till that which at first was the front became the rear ; and their evolutions continued in 44 7V/«Z> A.yr> LAST VOYAGE OF \ < tnc same mannpr fiii *u i retreated a J t""c anrf t" ""^ "''>°'<^ bocfv dSri ' /''' ^"^ =""S face aside as if asham.H ^t"""' ^''''^ ""e n ,vh ;>, f; '"°['°" '^at one, and that acraln r ' ' ' 1^" ''^'^k rank- itosoH K 1'"-"^ ''"''' t'«^ At that instam two '?'''^"'P'^ce,asinS^^^^ "'^ ^o"' clubs which tl«.l •■"?" entered verv h»«Y '^^/ornier dances in their la^ds^"^ '",,''""''^ ; *eydS ul"k;f ^ "-^^^'^ed the force and ^Z^t ^t '"« ^V-^"''-^^^troke ' be^^re7h ''"'■''"•? "'^'" ■ngquiteclose, thevn .^ " ''""■"">' ■"■"-•a-edthl"',?'" ""h great with a spear -i .f^never interfered. To Tw ""' "^°"gh stand- ifin searWsome'bo'd"? ''T'^ '"■"'nneTjook ^^'^'r^^^d a Per"on ='de of the crowd ini^ '°/''™>^ 't at. 'HeXn f, °"J '^g^'X' as attitude, as if T n" ^^ ^'■°"'' and put himl,/'^" ^^^'''y to one bending'the kn ee a HM ' *° ,=""^^ ^ith^ his sTe ' "? '" ''^^^^"enin^ continued in thi, „ ^' ""^l treniblintr as ,> f "^ °ne of theni the other side td^f """ ""'^ "^ ^^^^'^ZlZ^'X «'"'' «ffe. iTe of1teer:hf :f;"?.n^ tSrat-^ii^^ wit'^ t,s,buthe to Wmself.' As' soon' ^'^'^''"■'-'^ds unders'toodTH'" ""= P^««nce stepp vd up to the kin" .1 "''^ g^eat personnii f ^"P/"°r «nk retired. He immel^f^eTv .P"' ^'^ "^^nds to "leffelf '' ^'"^^' =''« and then received ?h^.^K^- ""'PP"' h's fineers in, "' ?"^ "^en she single instance we .L^'u'-''"'^^ °f ail he" foL ^ ^i?=^ of wine ence to any person t\ '^^^^^'^^A of his nav„° !,■■'• ^^^"^ '^as the to. be pIaye?ot??„\,^' 'he king's des!ve'^f^ord«ed' "^^--^of --ever! this exhibition did X , "'"- '' ''"t unfortunatl J°"'^ fi'v-works wents were to be exnlt"^"'' ^^'Pectat on T '^; ''^'"? damaged populace was by thTsS °" ^"''^r side"'and th. '"°''' ^'ertlin-' ''"^^""^-«--«eT«osV^S:U';e CAPTAIN COOK, 45 /f^'o"- They [^ and sun^r tvvo parts, o^ circuJar o another ^^ch, with vvirJcd the otion that ' \^'^^\ Xh^ t^ie front -r dances cised the I".? theni \^^ great ^^ stand- ^ person P^b^, as V to one eateninrr 5f them^ ?e. He' oved to for i\iQ hen he 'e per- buthe ssence r rank | h she f n she wine, ever- orks ged, ain- the us. We still, hcv.'cvcr, had thieves about us, and, encouraged by the negligence of our people, ue had continual instances of their depredations. Some of the officers, bclonrjng to both ships, who had made an excursion into the interior of the island without my leave or knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two days. They had taken with them their muskets, with the neces- sary ammunition, and several small articles of the favourite com- modities, all of which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them in the course of their expedition. Feenou and Poolaho upon this occasion very justly observed, that if any of my people at any time wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with it, in which case they would send proper persons along with them, and then they would be answerable for their safety. Though I gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's interposition, were recovered, except one musket and a few other articles of inferior value. We had now recruited the ships with wood and water, and had finished the repairs of the sails. However, as an eclipse of the sun was to happen on the 5th of July, and it was now the 25th of June. I resolved to defer sailing till that time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of observing it. Having therefore some days of leisure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Poolaho, set out early next morning in a boat for Mooa, the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As we rowed up the inlet, we met fourteen canoes fishing in company, in one of which was PoolaLo's sons. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended between two poles, at the lower end of vvl-tich was a cod to receive and secure the fish. They had already .aght some fine mullet, and they put about a dozen into our beat. I desired to see their method of fishing, which they readily complied with. A shoal of fish was sup- posed to be in one of the banks, which they instantly enclosed in a large net like a sieve, or set-net. This the fishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded v/ith the triangular nets in their hands, with which hey scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. Leaving the prince and fishing party, we proceeded to the botiom of the bay. Here we observed a fiataoka, or burying-place, which was much more extensive, and seemingly of more consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told that it / 46 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF bclonfijed to the king. It consisted of three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, with a small one at a distance, all ranged longitudinally. They were covered and paved with tine pcl)i3les, and the whole was enclosed by large llat stones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges ; one of the stones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. Within one of these houses were two rude wooden busts of men. On inquiring what these images were intended for, we were told they were merely memorials of some chiefs who had been buried there, and not the representations of any deity. In one of them was a carved head of an Otaheitean canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast and deposited here. After we had refreshed ourselves we made an excursion into the country, attended by one of the king's ministers. Our train 'vas not great, as he would not sufter the rabble to follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met upon our progress to sit down till we had passed, which is a mark of respect due only to their sovereigns. By far the greater part of the country was cultivated, and planted with various sorts of productions. There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of foot-paths leading to every part of the island. It is remarkable that when we were on the most elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above the level of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock which is found on the shore, and yet these very spots, with hardly any soil upon them, were covered v/ith luxuriant vegetation. We saw some springs, but the water was either stinking or brackish. When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the evening, our supper was ready, and consisted of a baked hog, some fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked after the method of these islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread upon the iloor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himself very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the same house, as well as several others of the natives. On the 30th I visited Futtafaihe, and we spent the night ashore ; but we were a good deal disturbed by a singular instance of luxury in which their principal men indulge themselves — that of being beaten while they are asleep. Two women sat by Futtafaihe and CAPTAIN COOK. 47 t performed this operation, tlip.t was called ' ^ "^e-toogc," by beating briskly on his body and legs with l)oth fists, j on a drum, till he fell asleep, and continuing it the whole night, with some short in- tervals. When once the person is asleep, they abate a little in the strength and quickness of beating, but resume it if they observe any appearance of his waking. In the morning we found that Futta- faihe's women relieved each otlicr, and went to sleep by turns. In any other country it would be supposed that such a practice would put an end to all rest ; but here it certainly acts as an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may effect. The noise of this, how- ever, was not the only thing that kept us awake, for the people who passed the night in the house not only conversed among each other frequently, as in the day, but all got up before it was light, and made a hearty meal of fish and yams, which were brought to them by a person who seemed to know very well the appointed time for this nocturnal refreshment. I had prolonged my stay at this island on account of the approach- ing ecHpse ; but on the 2nd of July, on looking at the micrometer belonging to the Board of Longitude, I found some of the rack-work broken, and the instrument useless till repaired, which there was not time to do before it was intended to be used. Preparing now for our departure, I got on board all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except such as were destined to remain, and on the follow- ing day we unmoored, that we might be ready to take advantage of the first favourable wind. The king, who was one of our company this day at dinner, took particular notice of the plates, which induced me to make Him an offer of one, either of pewter or of earthenware. He chose the first, and then began to tell us the several uses to v/hich he intended to apply it, two being of so extraordinary a nature that I cannot omit mentioning them. He said that whenever he should have occasion to visit any of the other iskiiids, he would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo as a sort of representa- tive in his absence, that the people might pay it the same obeisance as they did to himself in person. He was asked what had been usually employed for that purpose before he got this plate, and we had the satisfaction of learning from him that this singular honour had been hitherto conferred on a v.-ooden bowl in which he washed his hands. The other extraordinary use to which he meant to apply this plate, in the place of the wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said that when anything was stolen, and the thief could not be 48 TIIlRn AND LAST VOYAGL: OF found out, the people were all assembled together before him, when he washed his hands in water in this vessel, after wliich it was cleaned, and then the whole multitude advanced one after another and touched it in the same manner that thev toucii his foot when they ])ay him obeisance ; if the ^"uilty person touched it he died immediately upon the spot, not by violence, but l)y the hand of Providence, and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal was a clear proof that he was the man. Un the 6th of July we were ready to sail, but the wind being un- favourable, were under the necessity of waiting two or three days. We took our iinal leave of Tongataboo on the loth, and early in the morning of the second day reached Middlebuigh, or Eooa. We had no sooner anchored than Taoofa, the chief, and several other natives visited us on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. This Taoofa knew me when 1 was here during my last voyage, and I now went ashore with him in search of fresh water, which was the chief object that brought me to ICooa. I was first conducted to a brackish spring, between low and high water mark, in the cove where we landed. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little inland, where, in a deep chasm, we found very good water : but rather than undertake the tedious task of bringing it down to the shore, I resolved to rest content with the supply that the ships had got at Tongataboo. I put ashore the ram and the two ewes of the Cape of Good Hope breed, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. As we lay at anchor this island bore a very different aspect from any wc had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. In the afternoon of the 13th, a party of us made an excursion to the highest part of the island ; and as the plains and meadows are adorned witli tufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful landscape in every point of view. While I was sur- veying this delightful prospect, I could not help flattering myself with the pleasing idea, that some future navigators may, from the same station, behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England : and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose, independently of all other consider- ations would sufficiently mark to posterity that our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity. The next morn- ing I planted a pine apple, and sowed the seeds of melons and other vegetables in the chiefs plantation. I had some encouragement i CAPTAIN COOK. 49 / t indeed, to flatter myself that my endeavours of this kind would not be fruitless. On this day there was served up at mv dinner a dish of turnips, being tlic prochice of the seeds I had Icff ouring n^y last voyage. I had fixed on the 15th for saiUng, till 'iaoofa pressed nie to stay a day or two longer, to receive a present he had prepared for me, consisting of two small heaps of yams and some fruit, which seemed to be collected by a kiixi of contribution, as at the other isles. For this liberality I made an adequ.atc return, and soon weighed. We now took leave of the Friendly Islands, after a stay of nearly three months, during which time we lived with the natives in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propensity to thieving, which was too often encouraged by the negligence of our own people. The time employed amongst them was not thrown away : and we expended very little of our sea provisions, subsisting in general upon the produce of the islands while we stayed, and carry- ing away with us a quantity of refreshments, sufficient to last till we arrived at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition ( these good people, by leaving the useful animals before-mentioned among them ; and at the same time, those designed for Otaheite received fresh strength in the pastures of Tongataboo. But besides the immediate advantages which both the natives of the Friendly Islands and ourselves received by this visit, future navigators from Europe, if any such ever tread in our steps, will profit by the knowledge acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philosophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new situations, will, perhaps, find matter of amusement, if not of instruction, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. According to the information that we received then this Archipelago is very extensive. About 150 islands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to denote their number. At daybreak on the morning of the 12th we saw the island of Maitea, and soon after Otaheite. When we first drew near the island, several canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men. But, as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. At length a chief, whom 50 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF M^ I » I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai, came onboard. There was nothing either tender or striking in their meeting, but, on the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his brother-in-law down into the cabin, opened the drawer whore he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known among the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely changed, and Ootce, who would hardly speak co Omai before, now begged that they might be friends, and exchanged names. Omai accepted the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a bog. It was evident to every one of us, that il was not the man, but his property, they were in love with : such was Omai's first reception among his countrymen. The important ne vs of red feathers being on board our ships having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to break next morning, than we were surrounded by a multi- tude of canoes, crowded with people bringing hogs and fruit to market. At first, a quantity cf feathers not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight, but as almost everybody in the ships was possessed of some of this precious article of trade, it fell in its value above 500 per cent, before night. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came un board to see him. I was happy to observe that, much to tne honour of them both, icir meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than described. This moving scene having closed, and the ship being properly moored, Omai and I went on shore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary persorr.ge indeed, for he said that he was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. From Omai's account of this person I ex- pected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him, but, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before liirn, and upon the av/ning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which he might be distinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small stick ; but CAPTAIN COOK, 51 N after a little conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his mother. She was ah-eady at his feet, and had bedewed them plen- tifully with tears of joy. I left him with the old lady in the midst of a number of people, who had gathered round him, and went to view a house said to be built by strangers since I was here before. By an inspection I found it was erected by some Spaniards, who had been here lately in two ships from Lima. When I returned, I found Omai holding forth to a large company ; and it was with some difficulty that he could, be got away to accompany me on board, v/here I had an important affair to settle. This was in regard to the stated allowance of spirituous liquors ; and I had the satisfaction to find that the crews of both ships unanimously con- sented to an abridgment in the usual quantity while at this place, that they might not be under the necessity of being put to short allowance in a cold climate. The next day we began some necessary operations : I also put on shore the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after them while grazing, as I did not intend to leave any of them at this part of the island. During the two following days it hardly ceased raining, but the natives, nevertheless, came to us from every quarter, the news of our arrival having rapidly spread. On the 17th Omai and I went on shore, to pay a formal visit to a young chief named Waheiadooa, who had come down to the beach. On this occasion Omai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself, not after the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any country upon earth, but in a strange medley of all tliat he was possessed of. On our landing, P^tary, or the god of Bolabola, carried on a hand-barrow, attended us to a large house, where he was set down, and we seated ourselves on each side of him. J caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, om which I laid the presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came. attended by his mother and several principal men, who all seated themselves at the other end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who sat by me, made a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the opposite side, near the chief ; Etary spoke next, and then Omai, both of them being answered from the same quarter. These orations were entirely about my arrival and 52 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF Hi connections with them. The person who spoke last told me, among other things, that he was authorised to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of everj-thing in it, which marks very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length the young chief was directed by his attendants to come and embrace me : and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we exchanged names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on board to dinner. Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all other necessary operations, on the 22nd I brought off the cattle and sheep, and made ready for sea. On the 23rd we got under sail, and steered for Matavia Bay, where the Resolution anchored the same eveningj the Discovery not arriving till the next day. About nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of the whole island, attended by a great number of canoes full of people, came from Oparre, his place of residence, and sent a messenger on board, accompanied by Omai and some of the officers. We found a pro- digious number of people assembled on this occasion, and in the midst of them was the king, attended by his father, his two brothers and three sisters. I went up first and saluted them, followed by Omai, who kneeled and embraced his legs. Omai had prepared himself for this ceremony by dressing in his very best suit of clothes, and behaved with a great deal of respect and laodesty ; nevertheless, very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in producing this cold reception. He made the chief a present of a large bunch of red feathers and about two or three yards of gold 'loth, and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, what was of i;iore value than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers, and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the whole royal family accompanied me on board, followed by several canoes, laden with all kinds of provisions, in quantity sufficient to have served the companies of both ships for a week. Soon after, the king's mother, who had not been present at the first interview, came on board, bringing with her a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she divided between me and Om»ai, for although he was but little noticed at first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained a knowledge of his riches than they began to court his friendship. I encouraged this as much as I could, for i CAPTAIN COOK. S3 it was my wish to leave him with Gtoo ; as I intended to land all my European animals at this island. I thought he would be able to give some instructions about the management of them and their use. Besides, I knew and saw that the further he was from his native island the more he would be respected ; unfortunately, how- ever, poor Omai rejected my advice, and coPxducted himself in so imprudent a manner that he soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other person of note in Otaheitc. As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, taking with us the poultry with which we were to stock the island. These I left at Oparre, in the possession of Otoo, and the geese and ducks began to breed before we sailed. We found there a gander, which the natives told us was the same that Captain Wallis had given to Oberea ten years before, several goats, and a Spanish bull, which they kept tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I never saw a finer animal of this kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had been brought from Oheitepeha to this place in oidcr to be shipped for Bolabola. Next day 1 put ashore three cows, a, horse, a mare, and a sheep. Having thus disposed of these passengers, I found myself lightened of a very heavy burthen. The trouble and vexation that attended the bringing this living cargo thus far is hardly to be conceived ; but the satisfaction I felt in having been so for- tunate as to fulfil his majesty's humane design, in sending such valuable animals to supply the wants of two worthy nations, sufficiently recompensed me for the many anxious hours I had passed, before this subordinate object of my voyage could be carried into execution. As I intended to make some stay here, we set up the two observatories on Matavia Point. Adjoining to them two tents were pitched, for the reception of a guard, and of such people as it might be necessary to leave on shore in different departments. I entrusted the command to Mr. King, who, at the same time, attended the observations for ascertaining the correctness of the timekeeper, and other purposes. On the 26th I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, and planted in it several articles, Sonie melons, potatoes, and two pine-apple plants were in a fair way of succeeding before we left the place. I had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees, which I also planted here ; and they can hardly fail of success, unless their growth should be checked 54 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF s. ' by the same premature curiosity which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Ohcitepeha. A number of the natives got together to taste the first fruit it bore, but as the grapes were still sour, tliey considered it as httle better than poison, and it was unanimously determined to tread it under foot. In that state Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the dis- covery, for he had full confidence that, if he had but grapes, he could nKike wine. Accordingly he had several slips cut off from the tree to carry with him, and we pruned and put in order the remains of it. We found there the young man whom we called Oedidee, but whose real name is Heete-heete. I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774, after he had visited the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, Easter Island, and the Marquesas, c^rid been on board my ship about seven months. He was tenacious of his good breeding, and " Yes, sir," or "If you please, sir,'' were frequently repeated by him. Heete- heete, who is a native of Bolabola, had arrived in Otaheite three months bf^fore, with no other intention, as we could learn, than to gratify his curiosity, or perhaps some other favourite passion. It was evident, however, that he preferred the modes and even the garb of his own countrymen to ours, for though I gave him some clothes, which our Admiralty Board had been pleased to send for his use, to which I added a chest of tools and a few other articles as a present from myself, he declined wearing them after a few days. This instance may be urged as a proof of the strong propensity natural to man, of return- ing to habits acquir^^d at an early age, and only interrupted by accident. On the morning of the 27th a man came from Oheitepeha and told us that the Spanish ships had anchored in that bay the night before, and, in confirmation of this intelligence, he produced a piece of coarse blue cloth, which he said he got out of one of the ships. He added that Mateemawas in one of our ships, and that they wc'si to come down to Matavia in a dav or two. Some other circumstances which he mentioned gave the story so much an air of truth, that I despatched Lieut. Wilhamson in a boat to look into Oheitepeha Bay ; in the meantime I put the ships into a proper stp.te of defence, for though England and Spain were in peace when I left Europe, for aught I knew hostilities might have broken out. C-' CAPTAIN COOK. 55 However, on further inquiry, the fellow imposed upon us, and this was confirmed by Williamson's report, as soon as'he returned. Hitherto the attention of Otoo and his people was confined to us ; but next morning, messengers arrived from Eimeo, with intelligence that the people in the island were in arms, and that Otoo's partisans there had been worsted, and obhged to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two inlands, which com- menced in : 774, had, it seems, partly subsisted ever since. The formidable armament which 1 saw at that time had sailed soon after I left Otr.hcite, but the malcontents of Eimeo had made so stout a resistance, that the fleet had returned without effecting much ; and now another expedition was necessary. On the arrival of the messengers, all the chiefs who happened to be at Matavia assembled at Otoo's house, where I actually was at the time, and had the honour to be admitted into their council. One oif the messengers opened the business in a speech of considerable length, in order to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheite to arm on this occasion. This opinion was combated by others who were against commencing hostilities, but at length the party for war prevailed ; "Otoo, during the whole debate, remained silent. Those of the council who were for prosecuting the war applied to me for assistance, and all of them wanted to know what part I would take. Omai was sent to be my interpreter, but as he could not be found, 1 was obliged to speak for myself, and told them, as well as I could, that as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think myself at liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With this declaration they seemed satisfied. Human sacrifices arc not the only barbarous customs we find to be still prevailing amongst this unenlightened people. For, besides cutting out tlie jawbones of their enemies slain in battle, which they carry about as trophies, they in some measure ^ffer their bodies as a sacrifice to the Eatooa. Soon after the battle in which they have been victors, they collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands, and bring them to the morai, where, with a great deal of ceremony, they dig a hole and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to the gods ; but their skulls are never after taken up. We made no scruple in freely expressing our sentiments about their horrid ceremonies to Otoo, and those who attended him, and I could not conceal my detestation of them in a subsequent conversation with Towha. Omai was made use 56 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF of as our interpreter ; and he entered into our arguments with so much spirit that the chief seemed to be in great wrath, especially when he was told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as he did here, his rank would not protect him from being hanged for it. Upon iliis he exclaimed, " Maeno ! maeno!" ("Vile! vile ! ") and would not hear another word. In the evening of the 7th we played off some fireworks before a great concourse of people. Some were highly entertained with the exhibition, but by far the greater number of the spectators \s erf; terri- bly frightened, insomuch that it was with difficulty we could prevail upon them to keep together to see the end of the show. A table- rocket was the last. It flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in a moment ; even the most resolute among them fled with precipitation. Otoo was not more attentive to supply our wants by a succession of presents than he was to contribute to our amusement by a succes- sion of diversions. A party of us having gone down to Oparre on the loth, he treated us with what may be called a play. His three sisters were the actresses, and the dresses they appeared in were new and elegant — that is, more so than we had usually met with at any of these islands. In the evening we returned from Oparre, where we left Otoo and all the royal family, and I saw none of them till the 1 2th, when all but the chief himself paid me a visit ; he, as they told me, was gone to Attahooroo, to assist this day at another human sacrifice, which the chief of Tiarabee had sent thither to be offered up at the morai. The following evening Otoo returned from exercising this most disagreeable of all his duties as sovereign ; and the next day, being now honoured with his company. Captain Gierke and I, mounted on horseback, took a ride round the plain of Matavia, to the very great surprise of a great train of people, who attended on the occa- sion, gazing upon us with as much astonishment as if we had been centaurs : Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this attempted to get on horseback, but he had been as often thrown off before he could contrive to seat himself, so that this was the first time they had seen anybody ride a horse. Though this performance waj repeated every day while we stayed, by one or other of our people, the curiosity of the natives continued still unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the use that was made of them ,; and, as far as I could CAPTAIN COOK, 57 judge, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatness of other nations than all other European novelties put together. On the morning of the i8th, Mr. Anderson, myself, and Omai went again, with Otoo, to Oparre, and took with us the sheep which I intended to leave upon the island, consisting of an Enghsh ram and cwc and three Cape ewes, all of which I gave to Otoo. After dining with Otoo we returned to Matavia, leaving him at Oparre. This day, and also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied with fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached himself to Captain Clerke, came from Oparre, between nine and ten o'clock in the even- ing, with a large supply for both ships. The next day all the royal family came with presents, so that our wants were not only relieved, but wc had more provisions than we could consume. Having got all our water on board, the ships being caulked, the rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, I began to think of leaving the island, that I might have sufficient time for visiting the others in this neighbourhood. With this view we removed from the shore our observatories and instruments, and bent our sails. Early in the morning of the 22nd, Otoo and his father came on board to know when I proposed saihng ; for, having been informed that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, I told them that I should visit that island on my way to Huaheine, and they were desirous of taking a passage with me, and of their fleet sailing at the same time to reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name the day ; and the Wed- nesday following was fixed upon, when I wr-^ to take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and, in short, the whole family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out immediately for Oparre, where all the fleet fitted out for the expedition was to assemble that day, and to be reviewed. I had just time to get into my boat when news was brought that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and had returned v;ith his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all further proceedings in a military way quite unnecessary ; and the war-canoes, instead of rendezvousing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. I now returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first I thought i"his numerous train of females came into my boat with no other intention than to 58 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF get a passage to Matavia ; but when we arrived at the ship they told me thai they intended to pass the night on board for the exp»-ess pur- pose of undertaking the cure of a disorder I had complained of, which was a pain of the rlieumatic kind. I accepted the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their directions. They began to squeeze me with both hands from head to foot, but particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesli became a per- fect murnmy. In short, after undergoing this discipline for about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them, riowever, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another rubbing down before I went to bed ; and it was so effectual that I found myself pretty easy all the night a*''ter. My femait ■>hysicians repeated their prescription the next morning before they went ashore, and again in the evening, when they returned on board, after which I found the pains entirely remo^'cd, and the cure being peifccted, they took their leave of me the fol- ••.wng morning. This operation is universally practised amongst these islanders, being sometimes performed by the mci., but more generally by the women. The war with Eimco being finally closed, all our friends paid us a visit on the 26th ; and as they knew that we were on the point of sailing, brought with th nii more hogs than we could take off their hands, for, having no salt left to preserve any, we wanted no more than for present use. When the Spaiiish ships, which had some time before touched here, left the island, four Spaniards remained behind. Two were priests, one a servant, and the fourth made himself very popular among the natives, who distinguished him by the name of INIatema. He seems to have been a person who had studied their language, or, at least, to have spoken it so as to be understood, and to have taken uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, and to make them think meanly of the English. H." even went so far as to assure them, that we no longer existed as an indepciident nation : that Prctane was only a small island, which thoy, the Spaniards, hac entirely destroyed ; and that they had met with me at sea, and, with a few :;,hot, had sent my ship, and every soul in her, to the bottom, so that my visiting Otaneite at this time was of course very unexpected. With what design Lhe priests stayed, we CAPTAIN COOK. 59 ■A cannot guess. If it was to convert the people to the CathoHc faith, they had not succeeded in any one instance. When they had stayed ten months, two ships came to Ohcitepeha, took them on board, and sailed again in five days. Otoo said, if the Spaniards should return, he would not let them come to Matavia Fort, which, he said, was ours. It was easy to sec that the idea pleased him, little thinking that the completion of it would at once deprive him of his kingdom and the people of their hberties. This shows with what facility a settlement might be ob- tained at Otaheite, which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will never happen. We had no sooner anchored in the neighbourin,L^ island of Eimeo than the ships were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board, for thev had nothing with them for the purpose of barter ; but the n ^\t morning several canoes arrived, from more distant parts, bnnging with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they ex- changed for hatchets, nails, and beads ; for red feather-' were not so much sought for here as at Otaheite. In the mor^ ng of the 2nd of October, Malieine, the chief of the island, paid me a visit. He approached tiie ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to get him on board. This chief, who, with a few followers, had made himself independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather uncommon in these islands at that age, and wore a kind of turban, as he seemed ashamed to show his head. They had seen us shave the head of one of their people, whom we had caught stealing, and therefore concluded that this was the punishment usually inflicted by us upon all thieves ; and one or two of our gentlemen, whose heads were not overburthened with hair, we could observe, lay under violent suspicions of being tetos, or thieves. We hauled the ship off into the stream oi. the 6th of October, intending to put to sea the next day, but an accident happened which prevented it. We had sent our goats ashore to graze, with two men to look after them ; but, notwithstanding this pre- caution, the natives had contrived to steal one of them in the evening. The loss of this goat would have been of little conse- quence if it had not interfered with my views of stocking other islands with these animals ; but this being the case, it became 60 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF necessary to recover it, if possible, and after much trouble we succeeded. At Eimeo we abundantly supplied the ships with firewood. Whi had not taken any in at Otaheitr, there not being- a tree at !Matavia but what is useful to the inhabitants. There is a very strikinL^- difference in the women of this island and those of Otaheite. Those of Kimeo are uf low stature, are of a dark hue, and, in <^'-eneral, forbiddin.g- features. If we met with a fine woman ainoni,'' tliem, v/e were sure to find, upon inquiry, that she had come from some other island. We left lumeo on the 12th of October, 1777, and the next morning' saw Huaheine. At noon we anchored at tlui north cntrnnce of Owharre harbour, which is on the west side of the island. Our arrival brought all the principal people to our ships, which was what 1 wished, as it was high time to think of settlin.g Omai ; and the presence of these chiefs, I thought, would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory manner. After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to pay a formal visit to Taireetareea, the sovereign, meaning then to introduce this busi- ness. Omai dressed himself very properly on this occasion, and prepared a handsome present for the chief himself, and another for his Eatooa ; indeed, after he got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with such prudence as to g"?in respect. We waited some time for Taireetareea, but when he appeared I found that his presence might have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of great men, began with making his offerings to the gods, consisting of red feathers, cloth, and other articles, which were each laid before one of the company, who, I understood, was a priest, and delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai's friends, who sat by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these prayers he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back; the " Earee rahie no Pretane" (King' George), Lord Sandwich, Tootc, and 'J'atee (Cook and Clerkf^), were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's offerings and prayers were finished, th:^ Driest took each article, in the same order in which it had been laid before him, and after repeating a prayer, sent it to the moral, which as Omai told us, was at a grea^. distance, otherwise the offerings would have been made there. Omai sat CAPTAIN COOIC. 01 down by mc and wc entered upon business. Omai's cstoblish- ment was then proposed to the assembled chiefs : he acquainted them " that he had been carried by us into our country, where he was well received by the ^reat king" and his earces, and treated with every mark of regard and affection v»'hiie he stayed among-st us; that he had been brou.L,'"ht back ag^ain, enriched by our liber- ality with a number of articles, which would prove very useful to his countrymen ; and that, besides the two horses, which were to remain with bin"*., several new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply, and furnish a sufficient number for the use of all the islands in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them that it was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, that they would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to raise provisions for himself and servants ; adding, that if this could not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." One of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this effect : " that the whole island of Huaheine, and everything in it, were mine, and that, therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend." Omai was greatly pleased to hear this ; thinking, no doubt, that I should be very liberal, and give him enough. B-it to offer what it would have been improper to accept, I con- sidered as offering nothing at all, and, therefore, I now desired that they would not only assign the particular spot, but also the exai. : quantity of land which they would allot for the settlement. After a short consultation among themselves my request was granted, and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where our meeting was held. The extent along the shore of the harbour was about 200 yards, and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more, but a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. This business being settled, to the satisfaction of all parties, I set up a ten^ ..^hore, established a post, and erected the observatories. ". . carpenters of both ships were also set to work to build a small house for Omai, in which he might secure the European commodities that were his property. At the same time some hands were employed in making a garden for his use. While we lay in this harbour, we carried ashore the bread remaining in the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The number 62 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF 11 [ of corkroachos that infested the ship at this time was incredible ; th(.' dama.i,^e tiiey did us was very considerable, and every method devised l)y us to destroy them proved ineffectual. Accordini;- to Mr. Anderson's observations, they were of two sorts, the Ji/ittfa orioitalis and i^crnnDiica. The first of these had been carried home in the siiip from her former voyaije, where they withstood the sevc>rity of tiie hartl winter in 1766, thou,L,di she was in dock all the time. The others bad only made their appearance since our leavim,^ New Zealand, but had increased so fast, that when a sail was loosened, thousands of them fell upon the decks. The orienfalis, thou^di in infmite numbers, scarcely came out but in the ni.<,dit, whiMi they made everything- in the cabin seem as if in motion, from the particular noise in crawling!;- about. The intercourse of trade and friendly oftices was carried on between us and the natives, without bein^'- disturbed by any one accident, till the evenini,^ of the 22nd, when a man found means to ^et into Mr. Bayley's observatory, and to carry off the sextant unobserved. As soon as I was made acquainted with this, I went ashore, and iji^ot Omai to apply to the chiefs to procure restitution. He did so, but they took no steps towards it, bein,^' more attentive to a heeva that was then actinc;", till I ordered the performers of the exhibition to desist. They were now convinced that I was in earnest, and bei^an to make some inquiry after the thief, who was sitting- in the midst of them, quite unconcerned, insor. jch that I was in ,L;reat doubt of his being the g-uilty person, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring- me that he was the man, I sent him on board the ship, and there confined him. This raised a general ferment amongst the assembled natives, and the whole body iied, in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having employed Omai to examine the prisoner, with some difficulty he was brought to confess where he had hid the sextant ; but, £is it was now dark, we could not find it till daylight the next morning, when it was brought back uninjured. After this, the natives recovered from their fright, and began to gather about us as usual. As the thief seemed to be a very hardened fellow, I punished him with some severity. This, however, did not deter him, for in the night of the 24th a general alarm was spread, occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by this very man. On examination, we found that all was safe in that quarter ; probably, the goats were so well guarded, that he could t 1 c i i c CAPTAIN COOK. 63 he ; it as I :er lis at Id not put his design into execution, but it appeared that he had destroyed and carried off several vines and cabba.i^e plants in Oniai's L^q-ouiids, and he publicly tlireatened to kill him and to l)urn ids iiouse as soon as we should leave the island. To pnniMit the fellow's doiuL,'- me and Omai any more mischief, 1 had him seized and conhncd aj::fain on board the ship, with a view of carry- ing him off the island ; and it seemed to g-ive >;eneral satisfaction to the chiefs that I meant thus to dispose of him. Omai's house bein.ij^ nearly finished, many of his movables were carried ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety of other useless articles was a box of toys, which, when exposed to public view, seemed greatly to please the gazing multitude. But as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic accommodation, hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look at them. Omai himself now began to think that they were of no manner of use to him ; that a baked hog was more savoury food than a boiled one ; that a plantain-leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewterj; and that a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a black jack; and therefore he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles of English furniture for the kitchen and pantry as he could find pur- chasers for amongst the people of the ships, receiving from them in return hatchets and other iron tools, which had a more intrmsic value in this part of the world, and added more to his distinguish- ing superiority over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his days. Before I sailed I had the following inscription cut upon the outside of his house : — Georgius Tcrtius, Rex, 2 November, 1777. Tu- ^Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. Aa\es yji^covery, Car. Gierke, Pr. On the 2nd of November, at four in the afternoon, I took advantage of a breezo which then sprung up from the east, and sailed out of thc^ harbour. JNlost of our friends remained on board till the ships ./ere under weigh, when, to gratdy their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then took their leave, except Omai, who remained till we were at sea; an hour or two later he went ashore, taking a very affectionate farewell of all the officers, lie sustained himstjlf with a manly resolution ,! i 64 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF till he came to me, when his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King-, who went in the boat, told me that he wept all the time in going- ashore. Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought back with him of our Hberality, encouraged many to offer themselves as volunteers to attend me to Pretane. I took every opportunity of expressing my determination to reject all such applications. If there had been the most distant probability of any ship being again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought home with me two youthi of that country, who were very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the elder, was an exceedingly well-disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction He seemed to be fully sensible of the inferiority of his own country to these islands, and resigned himself, though perhaps with reluctance, to end his dr'ys in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached to us that he was taken out of the ship and carried ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy, and on that account much noticed on board. But notwithstanding this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, frequently reminded me that Lord Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen were to come to England. Nothing worthy of note happened till the night of the 12th, when John Harrison, a marine, who was sentinel at the observa- tory, deserted, carrying with him his musket and accoutrements. Having in the morning got intelligence which way he had moved off, a party was sent after him, but they returned in the evening, after an ineffectual inquiry and search. The next day I applied to the chief to interest himself in the matter. He proHiised to send a party of his men after him, but I had reason to suspect that no steps had been taken by him. We had at this time a great number of natives about the ships, and some thefts were committed ; dreading the consequences, very few visitors came near us the next morning, and the chief himself with his whole family fled. I thought this a good opportunity to oblige them to deliver up the deserter, and having heard that he was at a place called Hamoa, on the other side of the island, I went thither with two armed boats, accompanied by one of the natives, on our way embarking the chief. I landed about a mile and a half from the place, with a few people, and marched briskly up to it, CAPTAIN COOK, 65 ; tears liat he : back iselves rtunity itions. beini^ ith me inuing" sposcd ;eiving ;riority ;hoiigh snty in hat he I. He ced on bitious led me |:rymcn 1 2th, iserva- mcnts. moved eninc,''. ppHed sed to spect ime a were came whole |em to place lither s, on half to it, lest the sight of the boats should give the alarm, and allow the man time to escape to the mountains. But this precaution was unnecessary, for the natives there had got information of my coming, and were prepared to deliver him up. I found Harrison with his musket lying before him, sitting between two women, who, the moment I entered the house, rose up to plead in his behalf. As it was highly proper to discourage such proceedings, I frowned upon them, and bid them begone, upon which they burst into tears and walked off. Paha, the chief of the district, now came with a plantain-tree and a sucking pig, which he would have presented to me as a peace-offering. I rejected it, and ordered him out of my sight, and having embarked with the deserter on board the first boat that arrived, returned to the ship. After this, harmony was again restored. The fellow had nothing to say in his defence, but that the natives had enticed him away, and this might in part be true, as it was certain Paha, and also the two women above mentioned, had been at the ship the day before he deserted. As it appeared that he remained at his post till within a few minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved, the punibhment I inflicted upon him was not very severe. On the morning of the 24th I was informed that a midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Soon after, we learnt Irom the natives that they went away in a canoe the preceding evening, and were at this time at the other end of the island. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these islands, it seemed pretty certain that he and his companion had gone ofl^ with this inten- tion ; and Captain Gierke set out in quest of them with two armed boats and a party of marines. His expedition proved fruitless, for he returned in the evening without having got any certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives. Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the deserters, and with that view had given him false information the whole day, which turned out to be correct, for the next morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two were not the only persons in the ships who wished to end their days at these favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further desertion, it was necessary to get them back at all hazards ; and that the natives might be convinced that I D 66 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF was in earnest, I resolved to go after them myself, having ob- served, from repeated instances, that they seldom offered to deceive me with false information. Accordingly, I set out the next morning with two armed boats, being accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded as he directed, without stopping anywhere, till we came to the middle of the east side of Otaha. Then we put ashore, and Oreo despatched a man before us with orders to seize the deserters, and keep them till we should arrive with the boats. But when we got to the place where we ex- pected to find them, we were told that they had quitted this island, and gone over to Bolabola the day before. I did not think proper to follow them thither, but returned to the ships, fully determined, however, to have recourse to a measure which I guessed would oblige the natives to bring them back. Soon after daybreak the chief, his son, daughter, and son-in- law, came on board the Resolution. The three last I resolved to detain till the two deserters should be brought back. With this view Captain Gierke invited them to go on board his ship, and, as soon as they arrived there, confined them in his cabin. The chief was with me when the news reached him, and he immediately acquainted me with it, supposing that this step had been taken without my knowledge, :ind, consequently, without my approbation. 1 instantly undeceived him, when he began to have apprehensions as to his own situation, and his looks ex- pressed the utmost perturbation of mind ; but I soon made him easy as to this, by telling him that he was at liberty to leave the ship whenever he pleased, and to take such measures as he should judge best calculated to get our two men back ; that if he succeeded, his friends on board the Discovery should be delivered up ; if not, that I was determined to carry them with me. I added, that his own conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in not only assisting these two men to escape, but in being, even at this very time, assiduous in enticing others to follow them, would justify any step I could take to put a stop to such proceedings. This explanation of the motives upon which 1 acted, and which we found means to make Oreo, and those of his people who were present, fully comprehend, seemed to reassure them in a great measure. But, if relieved from appre- h nsion about their own safety, they continued under the deepest cc::cern for those who were prisoners. Many of them went CAPTAIN COOK. 67 ly of but 's to IP to Ihich |e of to ipre- )est ^ent under the Discovery' s stern in canoes to bewail their captivity, which they did with long and loud exclamations. ** Pocdooa ! " (for so the chief's daughter was called) resounded from every quarter ; and the women seemed to vie with each other in mourning her fate with more significant expressions of their grief than tears and cries, for there were many bloody heads upon the occasion. Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, but instantly began his exertions to recover our desertiTs by despatching a canoe to Bolabola, with a message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, ac uainting him with what liad happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives and send them back. The messenger, who was no less a man than the father of Pootoe, Oreo's son-in-law, before he set out came to receive my commands. I strictly enjoined him not to return without the deserters, and to tell Opoony from m.e, that if they had left Bolabola he must send canoes to bring them back, for I suspected that they would not long remain in one place. Urged by a regard for the high rank of the prisoners, the natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our people for their release ; or at least their impatience was so great, that it hurried them to meditate an attempt which might have involved them in still greater distress, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between five and six o'clock in the evening I observed that all their canoes, in and j'bout the harbour, began to move off, as if some sudden panic had seized them. I was ashore, abreast of the ship at the time, and inquired in vain to find out the cause, till our people called to us from the Discovery, and told us that a party of the natives had seized Captain Gierke and Mr. Gore, who had walked out a little way from the ships. Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, which seemed to counteract me so effectually in my own way, there was no time to de- liberate ; I instantly ordered the people to arm, nnd in less than five minutes a strong party, under the command of Mr. King, was sent to rescue our two gentlemen ; at the same tinK^ two armed boats, and a party under Mr. Williamson, went after the flying canoes, to cut off their retreat to the shore. Thc^se several detachments were hardly out of sight before an account arrived that wc had been misinformed, upon v^hich I sent and called them all m. D 2 I' 68 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OP It was evident, however, from several corroborating" circum- stances, that the design of seizing Captain Gierke had really been in agitation amongst the natives, nay» they made no secret in speaking- of it the next day ; but their first and great plan of operation was to have laid hold of me. It was my custom, every evening, to bathe in the fresh water. Very often I went alone, and always without arms. Expecting me to go as usual this evening, they had determined to seize me, and Captain Clerke, too, if he had accompanied me ; but I had, after confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in tlK^ir power, and had cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers not to go far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon the chief asked me three several times if I would nou go to the bathing-place, and when he found, at last, that i could not be prevailed upon to do so, he went off, with the rest of his people, in spite of all that I cou]d do or say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion at this time of their design, I imagined that some sudden frigh: had seized them, which would, as usual, soon be over. Finding themselves disappointed as to me, they fixed on those who were more in their power. It was fortunate for all parties that they did not succeed, and not less fortunate that no mischief was done on the occasion, for not a musket was fired, except two or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, Messrs. Clerke and Gore owed their safety,* for, at that very instant, a party of the natives, armed with clubs, were advancing towards them, and on hearing the reports of the muskets they dispersed. The conspiracy, as it may be called, was first discovered by a girl whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine. She, overhearing some of the Ulieteans say that they would seize Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, ran to av.';iuaint the first of our people that she met with. Those who were charged with the execution of the design threatened to kill ^er, as soon as] we should leave the island, for disappointing them. Being aware of this, we c:ontrived that her friends should come, some days after, and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a place of safety till they could have an opportunity of sending her back to Huaheine. * Perliaps thov owed tlieir safoty principally to Captain Gierke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. The circumstance is omitted both in Captain Cook's and Mr. Anderson's journal, but it is here mentioned on the anfboritv of Captain King. ATTAIN COOK. 69 :ircum- L really ) secret plan of 1, every : alone, lal this Gierke, >n fining >^self in officers 'ternoon ) to the not be people, IS I had at some soon be fixed on for all ; that no IS fired, )erhaps, lat very vancing !ts they as first ht from lat they lint the :harged as soon Being ?, some "a place jr back ig with a 1 Captain [bor'tv of On the 27th our observatories were taken down, and everything- we had ashore carried on board ; the moorings of the ship were cast off, and we transported them a little way down the harbour, where they were brought to an anchor again. Towards the afternoon, the natives began to shake off their fears, gathering- round and on board the ships as usual, and the awkward trans- actions of the day before seemed to be forgotten on both sides. The following niglit the wind blew in hard squalls from south to east, attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the squalls, the cable by which t-he Rcsolutio^i was riding, parted just without the hawse. We had another ready to let go, so that the ship was presently brought up again. In the afternoon, the wind became moderate, and we hooked the end of the best small bower cable, and got it again into the hawse. Oreo, the chief, being uneasy as well as myself that no account had been received from Bolabola, set out this evening for that island, and desired me to follow him the next day with the ships. This was my intention, but the wind would not admit of our getting to sea, though the same wind which kept us in the harbour brought Oreo back from Bolabola with the tw^o deserters. They had reached Otaha the same night they deserted, but finding it imposs'ble to get to any of the islands to the eastward, for want of wind, they had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of Pcotoe, in consequjnce of the first r-.essage sent to Opoony. As soon as they were on board, the three prisoners were released, and thus ended the affair, which had given me much trouble and vexation ; nor would I have exerted myself so resolutely on the occasion, but for the reasons before mentioned, and to save the son of a brother officer from being lost to his country. The wind continued between the north and west, and confined us in the harbour til! eight o'clock m the morning of the 7th of December, when we took advantage of a light breeze which then sprang from the north-east, and, with the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with the Discovery in company. During the last week we had been visited by people from all parts of the island, who furnished us with a large stock of hogs and green plantains. So that the time we lay wind-bound in the harbour was not entirely lost, green plantains being an excellent substi- tute Ibr bread, as they will keep for a fortnight or three weeks. if^ 70 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF Besides this supply of provisions, we also completed our wood and water. Ulietea, before its conquest by Bolabola, was, as we were told, the most important of that cluster of islands, and probably the first seat uf government, for they say chat the present royal family of Otaheite is descended from that which reigned here before the late revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned monarch of Ulietea, was still alive when we were at Huaheine, where he resides, preserving all the emblems which they appropriate to majesty, though he has lost his dominio.vs. We saw a similar instance of this while we were at Ulietea. One of the occasional visitors I now had was my old friend Gree, the late chief of Huaheine, who still preserved his consequence, and came always at the head of a numerous body of attendants. As soon as we got clear of the harbour, we took our leave of <; Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if not the sole object I had in view in visiting that island was to procure from its monarch, Opoony, one of the anchors which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite. This, having afterwards been taken up by the natives there, had, as they informed me, been sent by them as a present to that chief. My desire to get posses- sion of it did not arise from our being in want of anchors, but, having expended all the hatchets and other iron tools which we had brought from England in purchasing fresh provisions, we were now reduced to the necessity of creating a fresh assort- ment of trading articles by fabricating them out of the spare iron we had on board ; and in such conversions, and in the occasional uses of the ships, great part of that had been already expended. I thought that M. de Bougainville's anchor would supply our want of this useful material, and I made no doubt that I should be able t." tempt Opoony to part with it. Oreo, who is a sort of deputy of the king of Bolabola, and six or eight men from Ulietea, took a passage with us to Bolabola ; indeed, most of the natives, except the chief himself, would have gladly taken a passage with us to England. At sunset, being near the south point of Bolabola, we shortened sail, and spent the night making short boards. At daybreak on the 8th we made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the island ; but the tide and wind being against us, I gave up the design of carrying the ships into the harbour ; and having ordered the boats to be got ready, I embarked in one CAPTAIN COOK, 71 I our wood ! were told, robably the oyal family ; before the lietea, was preserving (Ugh he has is while we )w had was II preserved . numerous ur leave of 6 Dt the sole are from its onsieur de wards been i me, been get posses- chors, but, s which we provisions, resh assort- spare iron occasional expended. |ly our want lid be able of deputy lietea, took le natives, |ssage with Bolabola, )ards. At Ihich is on ig against harbour ; Iked in one of them, accompanied by Oreo and his companions, and v/as rowed in for the island. We landed where the natives directed us, and soon after 1 was introduced to Opoony, in the midst of a great concourse of people. Having no time to lose, as soon as the necessary formalities were over, I asked the chief to give me the anchor, and produced the present I had prepared for him, consisting of a linen night-gown, a shirt, some gauze handker- chiefs, a looking-glass, some beads and other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these last there was a general outcry, but I could only guess the cause by Opoony' s absolutely refusing to receive my j)resent till I should get the anchor. He ordered three men to go and deliver it to me ; and as I understood, I was to send by them what I thought proper in return. With these messengers we set out in our boat for an island, lying at the north side of the entrance into the harbour, where the anchor had been deposited. I found it to be neither so large nor so perfect as I expected. It had originally weighed 700 pounds, according to the mark that was upon it ; but the ring, with part of the shank and two palms, were wanting. I was no longer at a loss to guess the reason of Opoony's refusing my present. He doibrless thought that it so much exceeded the value of the anchor in its present state, that I should be displeased when I saw it. Be this as it may, I took the anchor as I found it, and sent him every article of the present that I at first intended. Having thus completed my negotiation, I returned on board, and having hauled m the boats, made sail from the island to the north. While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives came off in three or four canoes to see the ship, as they said. They brought with them a few cocoa-nuts and one pig, which was the only one we got at the island. I make no doubt, however, that if we had stayed tiH the next day, we should have been plentifully supplied with provisions ; but as we had already a very good stock, both of hogs and of fruit, on board, and very little of any- thing left to purchase more, I could have no inducement to defer any longer the prosecution of our voyage. After leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, close-hauled, with the wind between north-east and east, hardly ever having it to the southward of east till after we had crossed the line, and had got into north latitudes. Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure -tT"^^ i' THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF from En.o^land, durin^q- which we had not, iipon the whole, been unprofitably employed, I was sensible that, with regard to the principal object of my instructions, our voyage was, at this time, only beg-inning ; and therefore my attention to every circumstance that might contribute towards our safety and our ultimate success was now to be called forth anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our provisions at the last islands ; and as soon as I had left them, and got beyond the extent of my former discoveries, I ordered a survey to be taken of all the boatswain's and carpenter's stores that v;ere in the ships, that I mi^^lil be fully informed of th^ quan it} . state, and condition of every arti ^e, and by that me.i^- 1, v vv liow to use them to the greatest advantage. In the night of the ^jnd ' Oi" 'S^ed the line in the longitude of 20Tf° 15' East, and on the 24th, abc .it half an hour after daybreak, land was discovered bearing north-east. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be one of those low islands so common in this ocean, that is, a narrow bank of land enclosing the sea within ; a few cocoa-nut trees were seen in two or three places, but in general the land had a very barren appearance. Having dropped anchor in thirty fathoms, a boat was despatched to examine whether it vv'as practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea broke in a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat returned, the officer v/hom I had entrusted with this examination reported to me that he could see no place where a boat could land, but that ihcrc was a great abundance of fish in the shoal water without the breakers. At daybreak the next morning I sent two boats, one from each ship, to search more accurately for a landing-place, and at the same time two others to hsh near the shore. These last returned about eight o'clock, with upwards of two hundred-weight of fish. Encouraged by this success, they were despatched again after breakfast, and I then went in another boat to take a view of the coast and attempt landing, which, however, I found to be wholly impracticable. Towards noon, the two boats sent on the same search returned. In consequence of the report of the master, that about a league and a hall' to the north was a break in the land, and r. channel into the lagoon, the ships weighed anchor and came to again in twenty fathoms of water, before a small island that lies at the entrance of the lagoon, and on each side of which i CAPTAIN COOK. whole, been gard to the at this time, ircumstance nate success id examined and as soon my former boatswain's lat I mi^hl ion of every the greatest longitude of !r daybreak, 2r approach, mon in this ia within ; a it in general pped anchor I whether it as the sea n the boat xamination boat could the shoal from each land at the 1st returned bht of fish. L,''ain after iew of the be wholly the same |aster, that the land, ichor and lall island le of which there is a channel suitable for boats leading into it. The water in the lagoon itself is very shallow. On the 28th I landed, in company with Mr. Baylcy, on the island which lies betvvecn thj two hannels in the lagoon, to prepare tlie telescop^:s lor 0^ -serving an approaching eclipse of the sun, which WIS one gr-^at inducement ' • my anchoring here. On thj morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was to hap /en, Mr. King, IVr. Bayley, and myself, went ashore on the small island above mentioned, to attend the observation. The sky wa'^ o/eicast till past nine o'clock, when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough to take its altitude to rectify the time by the watch we made use of. After this, it was again obscured till about thirty minutes past nine, and then we found that the eclipse had begun. We now fixed the micromr r-, to the tele- scopes, and observed or measured the uncclipsed ;,ar >f the sun's disc. At these observations I continued about hrt juarters of an hour ?3efore the end, when 1 left off, being n "'^ct, unable to continue them any longer, on account of the g. ^ xt heat of the sun, increased by the reflection from the sand. In the afternoon, the boats and turtling pait n the south-east part of the island all returned on board, except a seaman belong- ing to the Discovery, who had been missing two days. There were two of them at first who had lost their way, but disagreeing about the most probable track to bring them back to their com- panions, they had s(>parated ; one of them joined the party after having been absent twenty- four hours and been in great distress. Not a drop of fresh water could be had, for there is none upon the whole island, nor was there a single cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirst he had recourse to a sin- gular expedient of killing turtles and drinking their blood. His mode of refreshing himself, when weary, of which he said he felt the good effects, was equally whimsical ; he undressed himself and lay down for some time in the shallow water upon the beach. It was a matter of surprise to every one how these men could con- trive to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel, from the sea-coast to the lagoon, where the boats lay, was not more than three miles across, nor was there anything to obstruct their view, for the country was flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon it, and from many parts of it the masts of the vessels could easily be seen. 74 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF As soon as Captain Gierke knew that one of the strag"glers was still in this awkward situation, he sent a party in search of him ; but neither the man nor the party having- come back the next morning-, I ordered two boats into the lagoon, to go different ways, in prosecution of the search. Not long after, Captain Gierke's party returned with their lost companion, and my boats having now no object left, I called them back by signal. This poor fellow must have suffered far greater distress than the other straggler, not only as having been lost a longer time, but because he had been too squeamish to drink turtle's blood. Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board in a state of vegetation, I ordered them to be planted on the spot where we had observed the eclipse, and some melon seeds were sown in another place. I also left on the little island a bottle, containing the following inscription : Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 December 1777. Naves S^^^c^'^f^'^"^ J-^c Cook, Pr. \Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr, On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on board all our parties from the island, and the turtles they had caught. Before this was completed, it was too late in the afternoon, so that I did not think proper to sail till the next morning-. We got at this island, for both ships, about 300 turtles, weighing, one with another, about ninety or a hundred pounds. This island has been produced by accessions from the sea, and is in a state of increase, for not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the shells, are too heavy and large to have been brought by any birds from the beach to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of fresh water was anywhere found, though frequently dug for, and there were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been here before us. On the few cocoa-trees upon the island, the number of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found, and, in general, what was found was either not fully grown or had the juice salt or brackish. A ship touching here must expect nothing but fish and turtles, but of these an abundant supply may be depended upon. As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery Christ- mas Island. I took it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, and of a semicircular form — or like the moon in the last quarter, the two horns being the north and south points. CAPTAIN COOK. 75 rglers was h of him ; the next different Captain my boats \zi\. I'his the other t because state of where we sown in ontaining" board all caught. 1, so that /'e got at one with land has state of ly of the my birds I drop of for, and r having- e island, "nn't was \y grown re must bundant ■ Christ- Lgues in noon in points. On \y\'<^ 2nd of January, at daybreak, we weighed anchor and resumed our course to the north ; and on the morning of the i8th* discovered an island ; and soon after more land, bearing north, and entirely sheltered from the former. Both had the appearance of being high land. At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three armed boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, to look for a landing-place and for fresh water, with orders that if he should find it necessary to land in search of the latter, not to suffer more than one man to go with him out of the bwats. Just as they were pulling off from the ship one of the natives, who had come on board, having stolen the butcher's claaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, the boats pursuing him in vain. While the boats were occupied in examining the coast we stood on and off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon Mr. Williamson came back, and reported that he had seen a large pond behind a beach, near one of the villages, which the natives: told him contained fresh water, and tliat there was anchoring ground before it. He also reported that he had at- tempted to land in another place, but was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great numbers, attempted to take away the oars, muskets, and in short every- thing that they could lay hold of, and pressed so thick upon him that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. This un- happy circumstance I did not know till after we had left the island, so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. Mr. Williamson told me, that after the man fell his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and then retired from the boat, but still made signals for our people to land, which he declined. The ships being stationed, between three and four o'clock, I went ashore with three armed boats and twelve marines, to examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inhabitants, several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before the villages, behind which was a narrow valley, having at the bottom the piece of water. The very instant I leaped on shore, the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that * This date, the i8tb of January, 1778, will be ever memorable in the annals of geographical discovery as the day on which the group known as the Sandwich Islands was given to civilisation by the enterprise of Captain Cook. 76 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF humble position till, by expressive si^ns, I prevailed upon them to rise ; they then broujj^ht a ^'•reat many small pi.Lr«, whieh they pre- sented to me, with a ])lantain tree, usin;^ mueh the same cere- monies that we had seen practised on such occasions at the Society and other islands, a lon.^- prayer bein.i,'- also spoken by a sin.i;le person, in whic^h others of the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my acceptance of their proffered friendship, by ^dvin.L:^ them in return such presents as I had brou.L,dit with me from the shi|i for tiiat purpose. When this introductory business was linished, I stationed a ^uard upon the beach, and p^ot some of the natives to conduct me to the water, which proved to be very jL^ood, and in a proper situation for our purpose; it was so considerable that it may be called a lake, arid it extended farther up the country than we could see. Havincf satisfied myself about this point, and about the peaceable disposition of the natives, I returned on board ; and having- given orders that everything should be in readiness for landing" and filling our water-casks in the morning, I returned wdth the people employed in that service, and a guard of marines, who were stationed on the beach. As soon as wo landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the people of this island gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron formed into something like chisels. We met with no obstruction in watering" ; on the contrary, the natives assisted our men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever we required. Everything going on thus to my satisfaction, and considering my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left the command to Mr. Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an excur- sion into the country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr. Ander- son and jNIr. Webber, the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the pen as the latter was to represent with his pencil everything we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of natives followed us, and one of them, whom I had distinguished for his activity in keeping the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide ; this man, from time to time, pro- claimed our approach, when ever}'one we met fell prostrate on the ground, and remained in that position till we had passed. This, as 1 afterwards understood, is the mode of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As the ships worked down me coast, "we had observed at every village one or more elevated white objects, )n them to they prc- unc c-ere- fns at the )kcn by a ics joined. , by ^^ivuii^ e from the iincss was omc of the very ,i^ood, msiderable ler up the about this natives, I everything er-casks in lat service, Deach. As d potatoes, )r nails and e met with ;^es assisted and readily considering ommand to e an excur- Mr. Ander- l quaUfied to 2nt with his srv'ation. A lem, whom I : in order, I to time, pro- strate on the Lssed. This, eir respect to Lhe coast, we vhite objects, CAPTAIN COOK, 77 like pyramids, or rather obelisks ; and one of these, which I guessed to be at h'ast fifty feet high, was very conspicuous from the Resolution' s deck at anchor, and seennxl to be at no great distance up this valley. To have a nearer inspection of it was the principal object of my walk. Our guide perfectly understood what we wished, but as it was separated from us by the pool of water, and another of the same kind lay within our n.-ach, about half a mile off, we set our to visit that. On our arrival we saw that it stood in a burying-ground, or morai, the resemblance of which, in many respects, to those we were so well acquainted with at other islands in this ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not but strike us ; and we also soon found that the several parts that compose it were called by the same nam(\s. It was an oblong space, of considerable extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet high. The space enclosed was loosely paved with smaller stones ; and at one end of it stood what I call the pyramid, which appeared to be an exact model of the larger one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet square at the base, and about twenty feet high : the four sides were com- posed of small poles, interwoven with twigs and branches, thus forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow or open within, from bottom to top. It seemed to be in a rather ruinous state, but there were sufficient reaiaining marks to show that it had originally been covered with a tlun, light grey cloth, which these people appear to consecrate to religious purposes. On each side of the pyramid were long pieces of wicker-work, in the same ruinous condition, with two slender poles inclining to each other, at one corner, where some plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at a height of five or six feet ; this fruit was an offering to their gods. Before the pyramid were a few pieces of wood, carved into some- thing like human figures, which, with a stone, near two feet high, covered with pieces of cloth, called ** hoho," and consecrated to Tongarooa, who is the god of these people, completed the resem- blance to the morals of the islands we had lately left. On the f»*ther side of the area of the morai stood a house, or shed, aboui forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being narrower, and about ten feet high : on the farther side of this house, opposite the entrance, stood two wooden images, cut out of one piece, with pedestals, in all about three feet high, neither very indifferently designed or executed, which were said 78 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF to be representations of f^oddcsses. On the head of one cf them was a carved hehnet, not unHke those worn by the ancient warriors ; and on that of the otlier a cylindrical cap, resembHn; ; the head-dre. s at Otaheile, called tomou ; and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side of each was also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them in the same manner ; and between or before the pedestals lay a quantity of fern, in a heap, which it was obvious had been deposited there piece by piece, and lit different times. In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong space, enclosed by a low edging of stones, and covered with shreds of the cloth so often mentioned ; this, on inquiry, we found was the grave of seven chiefs, whose nam(>s were enu- merated. Our guide informed us that the horrid practice of offering human sacrifices prevailed in the island, and we found direct evidence of the truth of his statement. After we had examined carefully everything" that was to be seen about the moral, and Mr. Webber had taken drawings of it and of the adjoining country, we returned by a different route. I found a great crowd assembled at the beach, and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots going on there with the greatest good order, though T did not observe any particular person who took the lead amongst the rest of his countrymen. At noon I went on board to dinner, and then sent Mr. King to command the party ashore. lie was to have gone upon that ser\ ice in the morning", but was detained in the ship, making lunar observpvtions. In the afternoon I landed again, accompanied by Captain Gierke, and at sunset brought everybody on board, having" procured, in the course of the day, nine tons of water, and by exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about seventy or eighty pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a few plantains and taro roots. Among the articles which they brought to barter this day, we noticed a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, even in countries where dress is more particularly attended to. might be reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and ::hape of the short cloaks worn by the women in England, and by the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosc.'ly before ; the ground is a network, upon which the most beautiful red and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, that the surface CAPTAIN COOK, 70 if them incient Tiblin m had Icrablc wood, r ; and . heap, :e, and vas an overed iiy, we e enu- ticc of I found )e seen it and ute. I V trade it good 10 took r^ent on party ^rning". In the :e, and in the chiefly , a few roots, ay, we iven in i^L^ht bo lape of le men loos{;ly 'autiful surface might be compared to the thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both as to feel and glossy appearance. The manner of varying the mixture is very different ; some having triangular spaces of red and yellow alternately, others a kind of crescent, and some that were entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made them appear at some distance exactly like a scarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The brilliant colours of the feathers, in those that happened to be new, added not a little to their line appearance ; and we found that they were in high estimation witli their owners, for they would not at iirst part with one of them for anything that we offered, asking no less a price than a musket. However, some were afterwards purchased for very large nails. The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part or crest sometimes of a hand's breadth, and it sits very close upon the head, having notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and osiers, covered with a net-work, into which are wrought feathers, in the same manner as upon the cloaks, thougii rather closer, and less diversified ; the greater part being red, with some black, yellow, or green stripes on the side, following in a curve the direction of the crest, Tiiese, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks ; for the natives t-ometimes appeared in both together.* On the 22nd the surf broke so high upon the shore that we could not land in our boats ; but the natives ventured in their canoes, and bartered some hogs and roots. One of our visitors, on this occasion, who offered some fish-hooks for sale, was observed to liave a very small parcel tied to the string of one of them, which he separated with great care, and reserv^ed for himself when he parted with the hook. On seeing him so anxious to conceal tlie contents of this parcel, he was requested to open it, which he did with great reluctance and some difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of cloth. We found that it contained a thin piece of human flesh, and that these people eat their enemies, using a small wooden instrument set with sharks' teeth for the purposi.' of dissecting the bodies ; indeed, one old man, upon being questioned as to whether they eat human flesh, answered in the alHrmative, and laughed, seemingly, iit the simplicity of such a question. * 1 heso articles may be seen in the liritisli Musoiim, and irrespective of their intrinsic worth, are interesting relics of the great navigato-. 8o THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF He also said it was excellent food, or, as he expressed it "savoury eating." At seven o'clock in the evening the boats returned with two tons of water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and some roots. Mr. King informed me that a great number of the inhabitants were at the watering or landing place, havin^f come, as he supposed, from all parts of the island for the purpose of barter. The ships quitted Atooi, as the natives called the island, on the 23rd of January, but owing to the prevalence of light airs and calms, were forced on the 29th to anchor off a village on the neighbouring island of Oneehow, where Captain Cook hoped to lay in a supply of fresh water. Six or seven canoes (says Captain Cook) came off to us before we anchored, bringing some small pigs and potatoes, and many yams and mats. The people in them resembled those of Atooi, and seemed to be equally well ac- quainted with the use of iron, which they asked for by the names of "hamaite" and "toe," parting eagerly with all their com- modities for pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes soon reached the ships after they had anchored ; but the natives in these seemed to have no other object than to pay us a formal visit. Many of them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and not quitting that humble posture till they were desired to get up. They had brought several females with them, who remained alongside in the canoes, behaving with less modesty than their countrywomen of Atooi, and at times all joining in a song, not remarkable for its melody, though performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon their breasts with their hands. The men wlio had come on board did not stay long, and they lay down OH the deck locks of their hair. On the 30th I sent Air. Gore ashore with a guard of marines and a party to trade with the natives for provisions. I intended to have followed soon after, and went from the ship with that design. But the surf had increased so much by this time, that I was fear- ul, if I got ashore, I should not be able to get off again. This really happened to our people who had landed with Mr. Gore, the communication between them and the ships to our own boats being stopped. In the evening they made a signal for the boats, which were sent accordingly, and not long after they returned with a. few yams and some salt. The violence of the surf, which ovi own boats could not act CAPTAIN COOK. 8i against, did not hinder the natives from coming off to the ships in their canoes with provisions, which were purchased in exchange for nails and pieces of iron hoops ; and I distributed many pieces of ribbon and some buttons, as bracelets, among the women in their canoes. About ten or eleven o'clock at night the wind veered to the south, and the sky seemed to forbode a storm. With such appearances, thinking we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be hove up, and having moved the ships into forty- two fathoms, came to again in this safer station. The precaution, however, proved to be unnecessary ; for the wind, soon after, veered to north-east, from whicli quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with heavy showers of rain. This weather con- tinued all the next day, and the sea ran so high that we had no communication with our party on shore, and ever, the natives themselves durst not venture out to the ships in their canoes, in the evening I sent the master in a boat up to the south-east head or point of the island to try if he could land under it. He returned with a favourable report ; but it was too ^.ate now to send for our party till the next morning ; and thus th'^y had another night to Improve tlieir intercourse witii the natives. J^^ncouraged by the master's report, I sent a boat to the south-east point as soon as daylight returned, with an order to Mr. Ciore that, if he could not embark his people from the spot where they now were, to march them up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, one of the crew swam ashore and carried the order. Oii the return of the boat, 1 went myself with the pinnace and launch up to the point, to bring the party on board ; and being very desirous of benefiting these poor people by furnishing them with additional articles of food, took with me a ram and two ewes, a boar and a sow of the English breed, and the seer^ j of melons, pumpkins, cwid onions. 1 landed with the greatest ease under the west side of the point, and found my party already there, with some of the natives in company. To one of them, whom j\Ir. CIor(3 had observed assuming some command over the rest, F gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. While the people were engaged in filling the water-casks from a small stream occasioned by the late rain, I walked a little way up the country, attended by the man above mentioned, and followed by two others, carrying the two pigs. As soon as we got 82 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF V on a rising ground, I stopped to look roun^ me, and observed a woman, on the opposite side of the valley where I landed, calling to her countrymen who attended me. Upon this the chief began to mutter something, which I supposed was a prayer, and the two men who carried the pigs continued to walk round me all the time, making at least a dozen circuits before the other had finished his oration. It is worthy of observation that the islands in tlie Pacific Ocean wViich these voyages liavo added to the geography of the globe, have been generally found in groups or clusters, the single inter- mediate islands as yet discovered being few in proportion to the others, though, probably, there are many more of them still unknown, which scitc as steps between the several clusters. Of what number this newly discovered archipelago consists, must be left to future investigation. We saw five of them, whose names, as given to us by the natives, are Woahoo. Atooi, Onceheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. I named the group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Karl of Sandwich. Atooi, which is the largest of these islands, is at least ten leagues in length from cast to west. The inhabitants are vigorous, active, anrl most expert swimmers'; leaving their canoes upon the most trilling occasion, they dive under them and swim to others, though at a great distance. It was very amusing to see women with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard and, without endangering their little ones, swim to tl.'e shore, through a heavy sea. They seem to be blessed with a frank, cheerful disposition, and to live very sociably in their intercourse with one another, and, except the propensity to thieving, which seems innate in most of the people we have visited in this ocean, they were exceedingly friendly to us, and on all occasions appeared deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority. It was a pleasure to see with how much affection the wom'^n managed their infants, and how readily the men li>nt their assistance to such a tender office; thus sufficiently distinguishing themselves from those savages who esteem a wife and child as things rather necessary than desirable, or worthy of their notice. The hrir in both sexes is cut in different forms, and the general fashion, es^:uclaily jn^ong the women, is to have it long before. CAPTAIN COOK, 8' and short behind. The men often had it cut or shaved on each side, in such a manner that tlie remainin.^- part in some measure resembled the crest of their caps or hehnets, formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem very careless about their hair, and have nothin;^ like combs to dress it with. Instances of wearin.^- it in a singular manner were sometimes met with among the mi;n, who twist it into a number of separate jiarcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thickness of a linger, though the greater part of these, which are so long that they reach far down the back, were artificially fixed upon the head over their own hair. Both sexes adorn themselves with necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, or many strings of very small shells, or of the dried llowers of the Indian rnallow ; and sometimes a small human image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polished, is hung round the neck. The women also wear bracelets of a smgle shell, pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interspersed, well polished, and fixed by a string drawn very closely through them ; or others, of hogs' teeth laid parallel to each other, with the concave side out- ward and the points cut off, fastened together as the former, some of which, made only of large boars' tusks, being very elegant. Tiie men sometimes wear plumes of the tropic-bird's feathers stuck in their heads ; or thc«'^ of cocks, fastened round neat polished sticks two feet long, commonly decorated at the lower part with oora ; and for the same purpose the skin of a white dog'.s tail is sewed over a stick with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the head a kind of ornanient of a finger's thickness or more, covered with rc?d and yellow fo'itb.rs, curiously varied and tied behind, and on the arm above the flbow, a kind of broad shell-work grounded upon net-work. Though they seem to have adopted the mode of ' ving in villages, there is no proportion as to the size of their h' :s, some bemg large and commodious, from forty to fifty fee ^ng, and from twenty to thirty broad, while (jthers of them arc n.ere hovels. The entrance is made indifferently at the end or sidt. and is an oblong hole, so low that one must rather creep than w Jk in, and is often shut up by a board of planks fastened togeth . which serves as a door; no light enters the house but at this (jpen.ng,and though such close habitations may afford a comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill-adapted to the warmtli of the climate. They arc, however, kept remarkably clean, and their iloors are covered SSl^SSEtfS?*M* 84 THIRD AND LAi^T VOYAGE OF I I ( wit.i a large quantity of dried grass, over which they spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a bench about three feet high, on which their household utensils are placed. These consist of gourd-shells, which they convert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to contain their victuals and other things, with covers of the same, and a few wooden bowls and trenchers of different sizes. The only musical instruments which we observed here were of an exceedingly rude kind. One of them does not produce a more melodious sound than a child's rattle ; it consists of what may be called a conic cap inverted, but scarcely hollowed at the base, above a foot high, made of a coarse sedge-like plant, the upper part of which, and the edges, are ornamented with beautiful red feathers, and to the point or lower pr-t is fixed a gourd-shell larger than the fist. Into this is put something to rattle, which is done by holding the instrument by the small part, and shaking or rather moving it from place to place briskly, cither to different sides or backward or forward just before the face, striking the breast wi:li the other hand at the same time. The other musical instrument (if either of them deserve the name) was a hollow vessel of wood, like a platter, combined with the use of the sticks, on which one of our gentlemen saw a man performing. He held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle, with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or slow(;r measure ; at the same time beating with his foot upon the hollow vessel that lay inverted upon the i^round, and thus producing a tune that was by no means dis- agreeable. The music was accompanied by the vocal perform- nnce of some women, whose song had a pleasing and tender effect. In everything manufactured by these people there appears to be i^n uncommon degree of n'^atness and ingenuity. Cloth is the principal manufacture, and they fabricate a great many white mats A'ith red stripes and other figures interwoven on one side. Their canoes in general are about twenty-four feet long, and have the bottom, for the most part, formed of a single piece or log of wood, hollowed out to the thickness of an inch, or an inch and a half, and brought to a point at each end. The sides con- sist of th.ree boards, each about an inch thick, and neatly fitted and lashed to the bottom part. The extremities, both at head and CAPTAIN COOK. 8S id mats it three These at serve i^ictuals wooden were of a more may be e base, J upper iful red •d-shell hich is wing- or ifferent nf,^ the lusical vessel ks, on Id one hand, bled a i time lupcn IS dis- "form- inder to be s the white de. , and ce or inch con- itted and ! ^ stern, are a little raised, and both are made sharp, somewhat like a wedge, but they flatten more abruptly, so that the two side- boards join each other, side by side, for more than a foot. As they are not more than fifteen or eighteen inches broad, those that go single (for they sometimes join them as at the other islands), have outriggers, which are shaped and fitted with more judgment than any 1 had before seen. They are rowed by paddles, such as we had generally met with, and some of them have a li^dit trian- gular sail, like those of the Friendly Islands, extended to .•». mast and boom. The ropes used for their boats, and the smaller cord for their fishing-tackle, are strong and well made. Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chestnut-coloured wood, beautifully polished — some of which are barbed at one end and flattened to a point at the other — they had a sort of weapon which we had never seen before, and not mentioned by any navi- gator as used by the natives of the South Sea. it is somewhat like a dagger, in general about a foot and a half long, sharpened at one or both ends, and secured to the hand by a string. Its use is to stab in close fight, and it seems well adapted to the purpose. Some of these may be called double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are better er .^ led to strike different ways. They have also bows and arro , but, both from their apparent security and their slender make, it may almost be pre- sumed that they never use them in battle. The knife or saw formerly mentioned, with which they dissect the dead bodies, may also bo ranked amongst their weapons, as they both strike and cut with it when closely engaged. It is a small flat wooden instrument, of an oblong shape, about a foot long, rounded at tlie corners, with a handle almost like one sort of the patoos of New Zealand, but its edges are entirely surrounded with sharks' teeth, strongly fixed to it, and pointing outward, having commonly a hole in the handle, through which passes a long string, which is wrapped several times round the wrist. The people of Tongataboo inter their dead in a very decent manner ; and they also inter the.r human sacrifices ; but they do not offer or expose any other anmial. or even vegetables, to their gods, as far as we know. Those of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expose them to waste by time and putrefaction, though the bones are afterwards buried. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their common dead and human sacrifices, a^ at Tonga- ! 1 86 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF taboo, but ihcy resemble those at Ota! ^itc in the slovenly state 1)1' their reHi;iuiis plaees, and in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. If tile Sandwieh Islands had been discovered at an early period by the Spani;irds, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage ot so excellent a situation, and have made use of Alooi, or some other of the islands, as a refreshing place to the shi})s that sail annually from Acapulco to Manilla, as they lie almost mithvay between the tirst place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is, at present,^their only port in traversing this vast ocean. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands would have been equally favourable to our buccaneers, who used some- times to i)ass from the coast of America to the Ladrones, with a stock oi footl and water scarcely sufficient to preserve life. Here they might have found plenty, and have been within a month's sail of the very port of California which the Manilla ship is obliged to make, or else have returned to the coast of America, thoroughly refitted, after an absence of two months. How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what hardship.-; would he have avoided, had he known that there was a group of islands half-way between hiiv ?" \i and Tinian, where all his wants could have been effec- tually sujjplied. On the 2iiv' of February we stood away to the northward, and without meeting with anything memorable, on the 7th of March the long-looked-for coast of New Albion was seen, extending from north-east to south-east, distance ten or twelve leagues. The lanil appeared to be of 1 moderate height, diversified with hills and vallcvs, and almost e/erywhere covered with wood. Aftei' coasting along, and combating contrary winds, on the 2Qth we anchored in eighty-five fathoms of water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. We no sooner drew near the inlet than we found the coast to be inhabited, and three canoes came otY to the ship. In one of these were two men, in another six, and iu the third ton. Having come pretty near us, a person in one of the two last stood up and made a long harangue, invit- ing us to land, as we guessed by his gestures : at the same time he kept strewing handfuls of feathers towards us, and some of his companions threw handfuls of a red dust powder in the same manner. The person who played the orator wore the skin of sou>c animal, and held in each hand, something which rattled as CAVTAIN COOK. 87 he kept shaking it. After tiring himself with his rcpcited exhor- tations, of which we did not understand a word, he was (luiet ; and then others took it up, by turns, to say something* ; thou.^^h they acted their p^'.rt neither so loni^ nor with so much vclicm- ence as the other. We obser\'ed that two or three had their hair quite strewed over with small white feathers, and otlicrs had large ones stuck in different parts of the head. After the tumultous noise had ceased, they lay at a little distance fn)m the ship, and conversed with each other in a very easy manner ; nor did they seem to show the least surprise or distrust. Some of them now and then got up, and said something after the manner of their first harangues ; and one sang a very agreeable air, with a degree of softness and melody that we could not have expected. The breeze, which soon after sprang up, bringing us nearer the shore, the canoes began to come off in greater numbers, and we had at one time thiiiy-two of them near the ship, carrying from three to seven or eight persons each, both men and women. Several of these stood up in their canoes, haranguing and making gestures, after the manner of our first visitors. One canoe was remarkable for a singular head, whicli had a bird's eye and bill of an enormous size painted on it ; and a person in it, who seemed to be a chief, was no less remark- able for his uncommon appearance, having many feathers hanging from his head, and being painted in an extraordinary manner. He held in his hand a carved bird, of wood, as large as a pigeon, with which he rattled, as the person first mentioned had done ; and was no less vociferous in his harangue, which was attended with some expressive gestures. The fame of our arrival brought a great concourse of the natives to our ships in the course of this day. We counted above a hun- dred canoes at one time, which might be supposed to contain o\\ an average five persons in each, for few of them had less than three on board, great numbers had seven, eight, or nine, and one was manned with no less than seventeen. Among these visitors many now favoured us with their company for the first time, whicli we could guess from their approaching the ships with their orations and other ceremonies. If they had any distrust or fear of us at first, they now appeared to have laid it aside, for they camt^ on board and mixed with our people with the greatest fnu'dom. We soon discovered by this nearer intercourse that they were as light- T I 88 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF \ ■ -\ fingered as any of our friends in the islands we had visited in the course of the voyage ; and they were far more dangerous thieves, for, possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, as soon as our backs were turned. In this manner we lost a large hook wei.i^hing between twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller ones, and other articles of iron. As to our boats, they stripped them of every bit of iron that was worth carrying away, though we had always men left in them as a guard. They were dexterous enough in clYecting their purpose, for one fellow would contrive to amuse the boat-keeper at one end of a boat while another was pulling out the iron-work at the other. If we missed a thin<^nmmediately after it had been stolen, we found little difBculty in detecting the thief, as they were ready enough to impeach one another ; but the guilty person generally relinquished his prize with reluctance, and sometimes we found it necessary to have recourse to force. A considerable number of the natives visited us daily, and occasionally we saw new faces. On their first coming they generally went through a singular mode of introducing them- selves. They would paddle, with all iheir strength, quite round both ships, a chief, or other principal person in the canoe, stand- ing up with a spear or some other weapon in his hand, and speaking or hallooing all the time. Sometimes the orator of the canoe would have his face covered with a mask, representing either a human visage or that of some animal, and, instead of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his hand, as before described. After making this circuit round the ships, they would come along- side and begin to trade without further ceremony. Very often, indeed, they would first give us a song, in which all in the canoes joined, with a very pleasing harmony. During these visits they gave us no other trouble than to guard against their thievish tricks. In the morning of the 4th we had a serious alarm. Our party on shore, who were employed in cutting wood and getting water, observed that the natives all around them were arming themselves in the best manner they could, those who were not possessed of proper weapons preparing sticks and collecting stones. On hearing this I thought it prudent to arm also, but, being determined to act upon the defensive, I ordered our workmen to retreat to the rock upon which we had placed our observatories, leaving the natives in quiet possession CAPTAIN COOK. 89 of the ground. These hostile preparation? were not directed against us, but against a body of their own countrymen, who were coming to fight them, and our friends of th2 Sound, on observing our apprcliensions, ust-d their best endeavours to convince us that this was the case. We could see that they had people looking out on each point of the ?, and canoes frequently passed between them and the main uudy assembled near the ships. At length the adverse party, in about a dozen large canoes, appeared off the south point of the cove, when they stopped, and lay drawn up in a line of battle, a negotiation having commenced. Some people in canoes, in conducting the treaty, passed between the two parties, and there was some speaking on both sides. At length the difference, whatever it was, seemed to be compromised, but the strangers were not allowed to come alongside the ships, nor to have any trade or intercourse with us. On the morning of the 7th we got the fore-mast out, and hauled it ashore, and the carpenters of the ships were set to work upon it. Some parts of the lower standing rigging having been found to be very much decayed, as we had time now to put them in order, while the carpenters were repairing the fore-mast, I ordered a new set of main-rigging to be fitted, and a more perfect set of fore-rigging to be selected out of the best parts of the old. From the time of our putting into the Sound till now, the weather had been exceedingly fine, without either wind or rain, but on the mcn-ning of the 8th the wind freshened at south-east, attended with thick hazy weather and rain ; and, according to the old proverb, misfortunes seldom come singly. The mizzcn was now the only mast on board the Resolution that remained rigged, with its top-mast up ; but the former was so defective that it could not support the latter during the violence of the squalls, but gave way at the head under the rigging. About eight o'clock the gale abated, but the rain continued, with very little intermission, for several days ; and that the carpenters might be enabled to proceed in their labours while it prevailed, a tent was erected over the fore-mast, where they could work with some degree of convenience. The bad weather which now carac on did not, however, hinder the natives from visiting us daily ; aiid they frequently brought us a tolerable supply of fish — either sar- dines, or what resembled them much, a small kind of bream, and sometimes small cod. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ // 4i^ l^. 1.0 I.I IM 2.2 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 = «« 6" - ► V] <^ /a ^/,. 'a, e^.\si., •;;, ^^.>/' ■C), i? / M Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4' %' ^ \ \\ %^^ 6^ 90 'fHIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF '•', M On the nth, notwithstanding the rainy weather, the main rigging was fixed and got overhead ; and on the following day we were employed taking down the mizzen-mast, the head of which proved to be so rottrn that it dropped off while in the slings. In the evening we were visited by a tribe of natives, whom we had never seen before, and who, in general, were better-looking people than most of our old friends, some of whom attended them. I prevailed upon these visitors to go down into the cabin for the first time, and observed that there was not a single object that fixed their attention for a moment, their coun- tenances marking that they looked upon all our novelties with the utmost indifference ; a few of them, however, showed a certain degree of curiosity. In the afternoon of the next day I went into the woods with a party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizzen-mast, which on the day following was brought to the place where the carpenters were employed upon the fore-mast. In the evening the wind increased to a very hard gale, with rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next morning, when it abated. The fore-mast being by this time finished, we hauled it alongside, but the bad weather prevented our fitting it in till the afternoon. We set about rigging it with the greatest expedition, while the carpenters were going on with the mizzen- mast on shore. They had made very considerable progress in it on the i6th, w4ien they discovered that it was sprung, or wounded, owing, jDrobably, to some accident in cutting it down ; so that all their labour was thrown away, and it became necessary to get another tree out of the woods, which employed all hands above half a day. During these various operations several of the natives, who were about the ship, looked on with an expressive silent surprise, whicli we did not expect from their general indifference and inattention. On the i8th a i^arty of strangers, in six or eight canoes, came into the cove, where they remained looking at us for some time, and then retired without coming alongside either ship. We sup- posed that our old friends, who were more numerous at this time about us than these new visitors, would not permit them to have any intercourse with us. Nothing would go down with our visitors but metal, and brass had by this time supplanted iron^ being so eagerly sought after CAPTAIN COOK, 91 t> main ;■ day ad of n the tives, were whom ti into not a coun- hthe srtain that, before we left this place, hardly a bit of it was left in the ships, except what belonged to our necessary instruments. Whole suits of clothes were stripped of every button, bureaus of their furniture, and copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and the like, all went to wreck, so that our American friends here got a greater medley and variety of things from us than any other nation we had visited in the course of our voyage. After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair day, we availed ourselves of it to get up the top-masts and 3Mrds, and to fix the rigging. Having now hnished most of our heavy work, I set out the next morning to take a view of the Sound. 1 first went to the west point, where I found a large village, and before it a very snug harbour, in which was from four to nine fathoms of water over a bottom of fine sand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to most of whom I w'as well known, received me very courteously, every one pressing me to go into his house, or rather his apartment, for several families live under the same roof. I did not decline the invitations ; and my hospitable friends whom I visited spread a mat for me to sit down upon, and showed me every other mark of civility. In most of the houses were women at work, making dresses of the plant or bark before mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening sardines, a large quantity of which I had seen brought on shore from canoes, and divided, by measure, amongst several people, who carried them up to their houses, where the operation of curing by smoke- drying is performed. They hang them on small rods, at first abouc. a foot from the fire ; afterwards they remove them higher and higher, to make room for others, till the rods, on which the fish hang, reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried they are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted, and are not a disagreeable article of food. Cod and other large fish are also cured in the same manner by them, though they sometimes dry them in the open air without fire. From this village I proceeded up the west side of tlic Sound, and found the remains of a deserted village. The lo^^s or framings of the houses were standing, but the boards that had composed their sides and roofs did not exist. Before this village were somo 92 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF 1 1 i\ I large iishing weirs, composed of pieces of wicker-work, made of small rods, some closer than others, according to the fish intended \o be caught in them. These pieces of wicker-work, some of whose superficies are at least twenty feet by twelve, are fixed up edgewise in the water, by strong poles or pickets that stand firm in the ground. From this place I crossed over to the other, or east side of the Sound, and found, what I had before conjectured, that the land under which the ships lay was an island, and that there were many smaller onjs lying scattered in the Sound, on the west side of it. Opposite the north end of our large island, upon the mainland, I observed a village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it were not .so polite as those of the other I had just visited, especially one surly chief, who would not let me enter their houses, following me wherever I went and several times, by expressive signs, marking his impatience that I should be gone. I attempted in vain to soothe him by presents, but though he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some of the young women, better pleased with us than our inhospitable chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, and assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village by joining in a song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable. The day being now far spent, I proceeded to the ships, and on ray arrival was informed that, while I was absent, the ships had been visited by some strangers, in two or three large canoes, who, by signs, made our people to understand that they came from the south-east, beyond the bay. They brought several skins, gar- ments, and other articles, which they bartered ; but what was most singular, two silver table-spoons were purchased from them, which, from their peculiar shape, were judged to be of Spanish manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round his neck, by way of ornament. These visitors also appeared to be more plentifully supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the Sound. On the 22nd, about eight o'clock, we were visited by a, number of strangers, in twelve or fourteen canoes. They drew up in a body, and stopped above half an hour, about 200 or 300 yards from the ships, and after this introductory ceremony, advanced towards the ships standing up in their canoes and singing ; some of the songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow, and others in quicker time, and they accompanied their notes with CAPTAIN COOK. 93 Lde of ;nded we of |ed up " firm rking- tin to , they Detter selves body, IS far nd on 5 had who, n the g-ar- vvas hem, mish leck, more nd. Tiber in a ards need ;ome and with the most regular motions of tlieir hands, or beating in concert with their paddles on the sides of the canoes, and making- other very expressive gestures. At the end of each song, they remained silent a few seconds, and then began again, and at length, after entertaining us with this specimen of their music, which we listened to with admiration for above half an hour, they came alongside the ships, and bartered what they had to dispose of. The inhabitants received us with the same demonstration of friendship which I had experienced before ; and the moment we landed I ordered some of our people to begin their operations of cutting grass for our few remaining sheep and goats. When we had completed all our operations at this villag*e, the natives and we parted very good friends, and we got back to the ships in the afternoon. The three following days we were employed in getting ready to put to sea ; the sails were bent, the observatories and instruments, brewing vessels, and other things, were moved from the shore ; some small spars for different uses, and pieces of timber, which might be occasionally sawn into boards, were prepared and taken on board, and both ships were cleared and put into a sailing condition. Everything being now ready, at noon of the 26th we cast off the moorings, and with our boats towed the ships out of the cove ; after this, we had variable light airs and calms, till four in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up northerly, with very thick, hazy weather. The mercury in the barometer fell unusually low, and we had every other forerunner of an approaching storm, which we had reason to expect would be from the southward. This made me hesitate a little, as night was at hand, whether I should venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But my anxious impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing this opportunity of getting'- out of the Sound, making a greater impression on my mind than any apprehension of im- mediate danger, I determined to put to sea at all events. Our friends the natives attended us till we were almost out of the Sound, some on board the ships, and others in their canoes. One of the chiefs, who had some time before attached himself to me, was among the last who left us ; and, having received from him a handsome beaver-skin cloak which he then wore, in return for some presents, I gave him a new broadsword with a brass hilt, the possession of which made him completely happy. I \ 94 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF The common dress of the inhabitants of Nootka is a flaxen garment, or mantle, ornamented on the upper edge by a narrow strip of fur, and at the lower edge by fringes or tassels. It passes under the left arm, and is tied over the right shoulder by a string before and one behind near its middle, by which means both arms are left free ; and it hangs evenly, covering the left side, but leaving the right open, unless when the mantle is fastened by a girdle of coarse mattin^g or wool round the waist, which is often done. Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a small cloak of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower part. In shape this resembles a round dish-cover, being quite close, except in the middle, where there is a hole just large enough to admit the head ; and then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to the elbows, and the body as far as the waist. Their head is covered with a cap, of the hgure of a truncated cone, or like a flower-pot, made of fine matting, having the top frequently ornamented with a round or pointed knob, or bunch of leathern tassels ; and there is a string that passes under the chin, to prevent its blowing off. Besides' the above dress, which is common to both sexes, the men frequently throw over their other garments the skin of a bear, wolf, or sea-otter, with the hair out- ward, and tie it as a cloak near the upper part, wearing it some- times before and sometimes behind. In rainy weather they throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have also woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The hair is com- monly worn hanging down loose ; but some, when they have no cap, tie it in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their dress, upon the whole, is convenient, and would not be inelegant were it kept clean. But as they rub their bodies constantly over with a red paint, mixed with oil, their garments by this means contract a rancid, offensive smell and a greasy nastiness, so that they make a very wretched, dirty appearance. The ears of many of them are perforated in the lobe, where they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher up on the outer edge. In these holes they hang hits of bone, quills fixed upon a leathern thong, small shells, bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of thin copper, which our beads could never supplant. The septum of the nose on many is also perfor- ated, through which they draw a, piece of soft cord ; and some wear at the same place small thin pieces of iron, CAPTAIN COOK, 95 flaxen narrow passes string n arms le, but by a often I small part, close, ugh to covers Their one, or ^uently iathern :hin, to lich is r other lir out- some- ir they woollen s com- ave no dress, it were er with ontract it they where up on , quills /oollen never pcrfor- ; and iron. brass, or copper, shaped almost like a horse-shoe, the narrow opening of which receives the septum, so that the two points may gently pinch it and the ornament that hangs over the upper lip. The rings of our brass buttons, whicli tliey eagerly pur- chased, were appropriated to this use. About their wrists they wear bracelets or bunches of white bugle beads, made of a conic shelly substance, bunches of thongs, with tassels, or a black, shiny, horny substance, of one piece; and about their ankles they frequently wear many folds of leathern thongs, or the sinews of animals twisted to a considerable thickness. On extraordinary occasions they wear carved wooden masks or visors, applied on the face or on the upper part of the head or forehead. Some of these resemble human faces, furnished with hair, beards, and eyebrows ; the others the heads of birds, particularly of eagles ; and many the heads of land and sea animals, such as deer, wolves, porpoises, and others. 15ut, in general, these representations much exceed the natural size, and they are jDainted and often strewed with pieces of the folia- ceous mica, which makes them glitter and serves to augment their enormous deformity. They even fix in the same part of the head large pieces of carved work, resembling the prow of a canoe, painted in the same manner, and projectinii: to a con- siderable distance. So fond are they of these disguises, that I have seen one of them put his head into a tin kettle he had got from us, for want of another sort of mask. Whether they use these extravagant masquerade ornaments on any particular religious occasion or diversions, or whether they are put on to intimidate their enemies when they go to battle, by their mon- strous appearance, or as decoys when they go to hunt animals, is uncertain. The only dress amongst the people of Nootka observed by us that seemed peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick leathern mantle, doubled, which from its size appears to be the tanned skin of an elk or buffalo. This they fasten on in the common manner, and it is so contrived that it may reach up and cover the breast quite to the throat, falling at the same time almost to the heels. It is sometimes ingeniously painted in different compart- ments, and is not only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed us by signs, even spears cannot pierce it. Upon the same occasions they sometimes wear a kind of leathern cloak, 96 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF covered with rows of dried hoofs of deer, disposed horizontally, appended by leathern thongs, covered with quills, which, when they move, make a loud rattling noise, alcnost equal to that of many small bells. The only instruments of music, if such they may be called, which I saw amongst them, were a rattle and a small whistle, about an inch long, incapable of variation from having but one hole. The rattles are, for the most part, made in the shape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly, and the tail is the handle. They have others, however, which bear more resemblance to a child's rattle. The houses are built of very long and broad planks, resting upon the edges of each other, fastened or tied with withes of pine-bark here and there, and have omy slender posts, or rather poles, at considerable distances, on the outside, to which they are also tied, but within are some larger poles placed aslant. The height of the sides and ends of these habitations is seven or eight feet, but the back part is a little higher, by which means the planks that compose the roof slant forward, and are laid on loose, so as to be moved about either to let in the light or carry out the smoke. They are, however, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, and constructed with little care or ingenuity. There are i^o regular doors into them, the only way of entrance being either by a hole, or, in some cases, the planks are made to over- lap about two feet asunder, and the entrance is in this space. There are also holes or windows in the sides of the houses to look out at, but "«' "thout any regularity of shape or disposition. On the inside, on' nay frequently see from one end to the other of these ranges of juilding without interruption. Close to the sides is a little bench of boards, raised five or six inches higher than the rest of the floor, and covered w^ith mats, on which the family sit and sleep. These benches are commonly seven or eight feet long, and four or five broad. In the middle of the floor, between them, is the fireplace, which has neither hearth nor chimney. In one house, w^hich was in the end of a middle range, almost quite sepa- rated from the rest by a high, close partition, and the most regular as to design of any that I saw there, w^ere four of these benches, each of which held a single family at a corner, but without any separation by boards, and the middle part of the house appeared common to them all. CAPTAIN COOK, 97 :ontally, h, when that of called, whistle, ing but in the the tail ar more resting ^ithes of r rather ich they . aslant. seven or 1 means 5 laid on or carry liserable There ce being to over- s space. s to look On the of these iides is a than the "amily sit eet long, Ein them, In one ite sepa- t regular benches, lOut any Lppeared Their furniture consists chiefly of a .crreat number of chests and boxes of all sizes, which are generally piletl upon each other, close to the sides or ends of the house, and contain their spare garments, skins, mask'^, and other things wliich they set a value upon. Their other domestic utensils are mostly square and oblong pails or baskets to hold water or other things ; round wooden cups or bowls, small shallow wooden troughs, about two feet long, out of which they eat their food, baskets of twigs, and bags of matting. Their fishing implements, and other things, also lie or hang up in different parts of tlio house, but without the least order, so that the whole is a complete scene of confusion ; and the only places that do not partake of this confusion are the sleeping benches, which have not]\ing on them but the mats. Their houses are as filthy as hog-sties, every- thing in and about them stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke. But, amidst all the iiltli and confusion, many of them arc decorated with images. These are nothing more than the trunks of very large trees, four or five feet high, set up singly or by pairs, at the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved into a human face, and the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and variously painted, so that the whole is a truly mon- strous figure. The general name of these images is Klumma, and the names of two particular ones, which stood abreast of each other, three or four feet asunder in one of the houses, were Natchkoa and Matseeta. A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part hung before them, which the natives were not willing at all times to remove, and when they did unveil them, they seemed to speak of them in a very m3''stcrious manner. Naturally we thought they were representatives of their gods, or symbols of some religious or superstitious object, and yet we had proofs of the little estimation they were held in, for with a small quantity of iron or brass I could have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in the place. I did not see one that was not offered to me, and I actually got two or three of the very smallest sort. The chief employment of the men seems to be that of fishing and killing land or sea animals, for the sustenance of iheir families, for we saw few of them doing anything in the houses, whereas the women were occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, and m preparing the sardines for dr}-ing. ; i 98 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF The women are also sent in the small canoes to g-ather mussels, and other shell-fish, and perhaps on some other occasions, for they manage tliesc with as much dexterity as the men. Their weapons are bows and arrows, shn^'-s, spears, sliort truncheons of bone, something like the patoo-patuo of New Zealand, and a small pickaxe, not unlike the common American tomahawk. The spear has generally a long point made of bone ; some of the arrows are pointed with iron, but most commonly these points were of indented bone. The tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, pointed at one end, and the other end fixed into a handle of wood. This handle resembles the head and neck of the human figure, and the stone is fixed in the mouth, so as to represent an enormously large tongue. To make the resemblance still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. They have another stone weapon, nine inches or a foot long, with a square point. From the number of these and other weapons, we might almost conclude that it is their custom to engage in close fight ; and we had, too, convincing proofs that their wars were both frequent and bloody, from the vast number of human skulls which they brought to sell. Their canoes are of a simple structure, but to appearance well calculated for every useful purpose. Even the largest, which carry twenty people or more, are formed of one tree, and many of them are forty feet long, seven broad, and three deep. From the middle, towards each end, they become gradually narrower, the after-part or stern ending abruptly or perpendicularly, with a small knob on the top ; but the fore-part is lengthened out, stretching forward and upward, ending in a notched point or prow considerably higher than the sides of the canoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For the most part they are without any ornament, but some have a little carving and are decorated by setting seals' teeth on the surface like studs, as is the practice on their masks and weapons. They have no seats, but only several round sticks, little thicker than a cane, placed across at mid-depth. They are very light, and their breadth and flatness enable them to swim firmly, without an outrigger — a remarkable distinction between the craft of all the American nations and that of the Southern Pactfic Ocean. Their paddles are small and light, the shape in some measure resembling that of a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, broadest in the CAPTAIN COOK. 99 lussels, )ns, for short New lerican f bone ; nmonly stone, icr end e head moutli, ike the They with a capons, pge in ir wars human ice well which i many From irrower, ly, with ed out, )oint or , whicli without corated is the ) seats, placed Dreadth igger— nerican paddles mbling in the middle, and gradually losing itself in the shaft ; the whole being about five feet long. Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both ingeniously contrived and well made, are nets, hooks, lines, harpoons, and an instrument like an oar. 'J'his last is about twenty feet l()n;^% four or five inches broad, and about half an inch thick. Each edge, for about two-thirds of its length— the other third being its handle — is set with sharp bone teeth about two inches long. Herrings and sardines, and such other small fish as come in shoals, are attacked with this instrument, which is struck into the shoal, and the fish are cauj^ht either upon or between the teeth. Their hooks arc mad(.' of bone and wood, and rather inartisiically ; but the harpoon, with which they striked the whale and lesser sea animals, shows much contrivance. It is composed of a piece of bone, cut into two barbs, in which is fixed the oval blade of a large mussel-shell, having the point of the instrument, to which is fastened about two or three fathoms of rope. To throw this harpoon they use a shaft of about twelve or fifteen feet long, to which the liarpoon is hxed, so as to separate from the shaft and leave it iioating on the water as a buoy when the animal darts away with the harpoon. The}' sometimes decoy animals by covering themselves with a skin, and running about on all-fours, which they do very nimbly, as appeared from the specimens of their skill which they exhibited to us — making a kind of noise or neighing at the same time; and on these occasions the masks, or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads of the different animals, are put en. As to the materials of which they make their various articles, it is to be observed that everything of the rope kind is formed either from thongs of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same flaxen substance of which their mantles are manufactured. 'J'he sinews often appeared to be of such a length that it might be presumed they could be of no other animal than the whale ; and the same may be said of the bones of which they made their weapons, already mentioned, such as their bark-beating instruments, the points of their spears, and barbs of their harpoons. The chisel and the knife are the only forms, as far as we saw, that iron assumes amongst them. The chisel is a long flat piece, fitted into a handle of wood ; a stone serves for a mallet, and a piece of fish-skin for a polisher, I have seen some of these E 2 ICO THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF %\ \ i chisoVs that were ciijlit or tcMi inches long, and three or four inches bri>,id ; Vjut, in LTi-neral, tliey were smaller. The knives are of varicjus sizes, and their blades are crooked, somewhat like our pruning-knife, but the edL,'"e is on tlie back or convex part. Most of them that we saw were about the breadth and thickness of an iron hoop. They sharpen tiiese tools ujoon a coarse slate whetstone, and likewise keep the whole instrument constantly bri^-ht. They expressed no marks of surprise at seein-^ our ships ; nor were they even starded at the report of a musket, till one day, upon their endeavouring to make us sensible that their arrows and spears could not penetrate the hide dresses, one of our gentlemen sliot a musket-ball through one of them, folded six times, which greatly staggered them. W^e were hardly out of the Sound, on the evening of the 26th, before the wind suddenly shifted, and increased to a strong gale, with squalls and rain, with so dark a sky that we could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, from the experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of the wind veering more to tlie south, which would put us in danger of a lee-shore, we got the tacks on board, and stretched off to the south-west under all the sail the ships would bear. At daylight tlie next morning we were quite clear of the coast, and the Discovery being at some distance astern, I brought to till she came up, and then bore awa}', steering north-west, in which direction I supposed the coast to lie. At half-past one in the afternoon it blew a perfect hurricane, so that I judged it highly dangerous to run any longer before it, and therefore brought the ships to, with their heads to the southward, under the foresails and mizzen- staysails. At this time the Resolution sprung a leak, which at first alarmed us not a little, as from the bread-room we could both hear and see the water rush in, and, as we then thought, it was two feet under water. But in this we were happily mistaken, for it was after- wards found to be even with the water-line, if not above it, when the ship was upright. It was no sooner discovered than the lish-room was also found to be full of water, and the casks in it afloat, but this was in a great measure owing to the water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals that lay in the bottom of the room ; for, after the water was baled out (which employed us till midnight), and had found its way directly from \ CAPTAIN COOK, lOI the leaks to the pumps, it appeared tliat one pump kept it under, ^vhicll .gave us no small satisfaction. Jn the e^■enin.L,^ the wind veered to th(; south, and its fury in some de£,nee ceased ; (»n tliis, we set the mainsail and two topsails, close-reefed, and stretched to the westward. Puit at eleven o'clock the .t^ale a.g'ain increased, and obliged us to take in the topsails, till live o'clock the next morning, when the storm began to abate, so that we could bear to set them again. At seven in the evening, on the ist of May, we got sight of land, which abounds with hills, but one considerably outtops the rest ; this 1 called Mount lulgecumbe. On the 3rd we saw a large inlet, distant six leagues, and the most advanced point of the land lying under a very high peaked mountain, whicl; obtained the name of INlount Fair Weather. 'ihe inlet wab named Cross Sound, being first seen on the day so marked in our calendar. From the 4th to the loth nothing very interesting occurred. On the loth we found ourselves no more than three leagues from the coast of the continent, which extended as far as the e3''e could reach. To the westward of this last direction was an island that extended from north to south, distant six leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the north-east end of the island, about five or six leagues distant; this point I named Cape Suckling. On the nth I bore up for the island. At ten o'clock in the morning I went in a boat, and landed upon it, with a view of seeing what lay on the other side, but finding it farther to the hills than 1 expected, and the way being steep and woody, I was obliged to drop the design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, I left a bottle with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the ships and the date of our discovery ; and along with it I enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his Majesty's coin of the date of 1772. These, with many others, were furnished me by the Rev. Dr. Kaye (now Dean of Lincoln), and as a mark of my esteem and regard for that gentleman, I named the island after him, Kaye's Island; it is eleven or twelve leagues in length, but its breadth is not above a league and a half in any part of it. On this island there are a considerable number of pines, and the whole seems covered with a broad girdle of wood. On the 28th, having but very little wind, I dropped a kedge- 102 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF '% I I anchor with an eig-ht-inch hawser bent to it ; but, in bringing the ship up, the hawser parted near the inner end, and al- though we brought the ship up with one of the bowers, and spent most of the day in sweeping for the kedge, it was to no effect. The weather being fair and tolerably clear, we saw land on each side, with a ridge of mountains rising one behind another, without the least separation. On the eastern shore we now saw two columns of smoke, a sure sign that there were inhabi- tants. Between one and two in the morning of the 30th we weighed, and worked up till near seven o'clock, when, the tide being done, we anchored in nineteen fathoms, under the same shore as before. About noon, two canoes, with a man in each, came off to the ship, from near the place where we had seen the smoke the preceding day. They laboured very hard in paddling across the stormy tide, and hesitated a little before they would cume quite close ; but upon signs being made to them, they approached. One of them talked a great deal, but we did not understand a word he said. He kept pointing to the shore, which \ve interpreted to be an invitation to go thither. They accepted a few trifles from me, which I conveyed to them from the quarter gallery. These men in every respect resembled the people we had met with in Prince William's Sound, as to their person and dress. Their canoes were also of the same construction. One of our visitors had his face painted jet black, and seemed to have no beard, but the other, who was more elderty, had no paint and a considerable beard. When the flood made we weighed, and then the canoes left us. I stood over to the western shore, with a fresh gale at north-north-east, and fetched under the point above mentioned ; this, with the other on the opposite shore, contracted the channel to the brendth of four leagues. Through this channel ran a prodigious tide. At eight in the evening we anchored under a point of land •yhich bore north-east, three leagues distant, in fifteen fathoms of water. Here we lay during the ebb, which ran near five knots to the hour. We weighed with the next flood in the , irorning of the 31st, and about eight o'clock were visited by ! several of the natives, in one large and several small canoes. The latter carried only one person each, and some had a paddle with a blade at each end, after the manner of the Esquimaux ; CAPTAIN COOK, lo- nging d al- , and jffect. nd on other, e now nhabi- )th we le tide : same each, i seen ard in before ade to :al, but ting to :hithcr. them embled as to e same ; black, s more oes left ale at tioned ; channel 1 ran a of land fathoms ear five . in the sited by canoes. 1 paddle iimaux \ in the large canoes were men, women, and children. Before they reached the ship, they displayed a leathern frock upon a long pole, as a sign ap 'nl}' of their peaceable intentions. This frock they conveyed into the ship, in return for some trilles which I gave them. We procured from them some of their fur dresses, made of the skins of sea-otters, martens, hares, and other animals, a few of their darts, and a small supply of salmon and halibut. In exchange for these they took old clothes, beads, and pieces of iron. We found that they were in pos- session of large iron knives and sky-blue glass beads, whicli they seemed to value much, and consequently those which we now gave them. After spending about two hours between the one ship and the other, they all retired to the western shore. At nine o'clock we came to an anchor in si.xteen fathoms of water, about two leagues from the west shore ; the weather was misty, with drizzling rain, and clear by turns. At the clear intervals we saw an opening between the mountains in the eastern shore, bearing east from the station of the ships, with low land, which we supposed to be islands, lying between us and the mainland. Low land was also seen to the northward, which seemed to extend from the foot of the mountains on the one side to those on the other, and at low water we perceived large shoals stretching out from this low land, some of which were at no great distance from us. From these appearances we were in some doubts whether the inlet did not take an easterly direc- tion, through the above opening, or whether that opening was only a branch of it, and the main channel continued its northern direction through the low land now in sight. To determine this point and to examine the shoals I de- spatched the boats, under the command of the master, and, as soon as the flood-tide made, followed with the ships ; but as it was a dead calm and the tide strong, I anchored, after driving about ten miles in an easterly direction. In the afternoon the natives, in several canoes, paid us a visit, and trafficked with our people for some time, without ever giving us reason to accuse them of any act of dishonesty. At two o'clock on the following morning, the ist of June, the ma.'' j: returned, and reported that he found the inlet, or rather river, contracted to the breadth of one league by low land on each side, through which it took a northerly direction. He IF^ i 1 I i I 104 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF proceeded three leagues through this narrow part, which he found navigabl- for the largest ships, being from seventeen to twenty fathoms deep. While the ebb or stream ran down, the water was perfectly fresh, but after the flood made it was brackish. All hopes of finding a passage were now given up ; but, as the ebb was almost spent, and we could not return against the flood, I thought I might as well take advantage of the latter to get a nearer view of the eastern branch, and by that means finally to determine whether the low land on the east side of the river was an island, as we had supposed, or not. With this purpose in view we weighed with the first of the flood, and stood over for the eastern shore, with boats ahead sounding ; but, a contrary wind springing up, I despatclied two boats, under the command of Lieutenant King, to examine the tides and to make such other observations as might give us some insight into the nature of the river. At ten o'clock, finding the ebb begun, I anchored in nine fathoms of water, but, observing the tide to be too strong for the boats to make head against it, I made a signal for them to return on board before they had got half-way to the entrance of the river they were sent to examine, which was three leagues distant. The principal information gained by this tide's work was the determining that all the low land, which we had sup- posed to be an island or islands, was one track, from the banks of the great river to the foot of the mountains, which it joined, and that it terminated at the south entrance of this eastern branch, whicli I shall distinguish by the name of river Turn- again. On the north side of this river the low land again begins, and stretches out from the foot of the mountains down to the banks of the great river, so that before the river Turnagain it forms a large bay, on the south side of which we were now at anchor. We had traced this river seventy leagues or more from its entrance without seeing the least appearance of its source. If the discovery of this great river,* which promises to vie * Captain Cook havinpf hero left a Llank, which hft had not filled up with any particular name, Lord Sandwich directed, with the greatest propriety, that it should be called Cook's River. This arm of the ?ea is now known as Cook's Inlet, and was further explored, in 1794, by Captain Vancouver. CAPTAIN COOK. 105 ch he snteen down, it was Dut, as g-ainst of the Dy that e east Dr not. i flood, nding ; boats, e tides s some in nine ong for them to ntrance leagues ;'s work ad sup- e banks : joined, eastern tx Turn- d again ns down urnagain 3 now at from its ce. ies to vie up with any Kat it should ilet, and was with the most considerable ones already known to be capable of extensive inland navigation, sliould prove of use either to the present or to any future age, the time we spent in it ought to be the less regretted ; but to us, who had a much greater object in view, the delay thus occasioned was an essential loss. The season was advancing apace, we knew not how far we might have to proceed to the south, and we were now convinced that the continent of North America extended larther to the west than from the modern most reputable charts wc had reason to expect. This made the existence of a passage into Baffin's or Hudson's Bay less probable, or at least showed it to be of greater extent. It was a satisfaction to me, liowever, to reflect that if I had not examined this very considerable inlet it would have been assumed by speculative fabricators of geography as a fact that it communicated with the sea to the north, or witli Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the east. In the afternoon I sent IMr. King again with two armed boats, with orders to land on the nortiicrn point of the low land on the north-east side of the river ; thence to display the flag and take possession of the country and river in his Majesty's name ; and also to bury in the ground a bottle containing some pieces of English coin of the year 1772, and a paper, on which was inscribed the names of our ships and the date of our discovery. In the meantime, the ships were got under sail, in order to proceed down the river. The wind blew fresh easterly, but a calm ensued not long after we were under ^vay, and the flood-tide meeting us oft the point where Mr. King landed (and which thence got the name of Point Possession), we were obliged to drop anchor in six fathoms of water, with the point bearing south, two miles distant. When Mr. King returned, he informed me that, as he approached the shore, about twenty of the natives made their appearance with their arms extended, probably to express their peaceable disposition and to show that they were without weapons. On Mr. King and the gentlemen with him landing with muskets in their hands, they seemed alarmed, and made signs expressive of their request to lay them down ; this was accordingly done, and then they suffered the gentlemen to walk up to them, and appeared to be cheerful and sociable. They had with them a few pieces of fresh salmon and several loO THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF I' '' f I I j i j i If % \ ,!j dogs. Mr. Law, surgeon of the Discovery, who was one of the party, having bouglit one of the latter, took it down towards the boat, and shot it dead in their sight. This seemed to surprise them exceedingly, and, as if they did not thinlc them- selves safe in such company, they walked away ; but it was soon after discovered that their spears and other weapons were hid in the bushes close behind them. We weighed anchor as soon as it was high water, and stood over to the west shore, where the return of the flood obliged us t*j anchor early next morning. Soon after several large and some small canoes with natives came off, who first bartered their skins, and then sold their garments, till many of them were quite naked ; amongst others, they brought a number of white hare or rabbit skins, and very beautiful reddish ones of foxes ; but there were only two or three skins of otters. They also sold us some pieces of salmon and halibut, and preferred iron to everything else offered to them in exchange. At half-past ten we weighed with the first of the ebb, and while workinsr down the river, owing to the inattention and neoflect of the man at the lead, X\\q. Resolitfioji stru< k and stuck fast on a bank that lies nearly in the middle of the river, and about two miles above the two projecting bluff points before mentioned. As soon as the ship got aground I made a signal for the Discui'cry to anchor ; she, as I afterwards understood, had been near ashore on the west side of the bank. As the flood-tide came in. the ship floated off soon after Ave o'clock in the afternoon, without receiving the least damage, or giving us any trouble, and after standing over to the west shore into deep water, we anchored to wait for the ebb, as the wind was still contrary. We weighed again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night, and between four and five the next morning. When the tide was finished, we once more cast anchor about two miles below the bluff point on the west shore. Many of the natives came off, and attended upon us all the morn- ing. Their company was \cry acceptable, for they brought with them a quantity of fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifles as we had to give them. Most of it was split ready for drv'ing, and several hundred-weight of it was procured for the two ships. The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it down the river, and on the morning of the 5th, coming to the place where CAPTAIN COOK. 107 ne of A'ards ed to Lhcm- : was apons nchor shore, J next :anoes i then aked ; rabbit e were pieces e: else d while rlect of ^t on a )ut two ed. As 'scovcry ashore le ship ceiving andin.c: vait for lin with ve the xc cast shore, e morn- ht with or such eady for the two own the :e where we had lost our kedge-anchor, made an attempt to recover it, but without success. Before we left this place, six canoes came off from the east shore, some conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained at a little distance from the ships, viewing- them with a kind of silent surprise, at least half an hour, without exchanging a single word with us, or with one another. At length they took courage and came alongside, when they began to barter with our people, and did not leave us till they had parted with everything they brought with them, consisting of a few skins and some salmon. Early on the morning of the 20th some breakers were seen two miles distant, which forced us so far from the continent that we had but a distant view of the coast. Over some adjoining islands we could see the main land covered with snow, but particularly some hillSj whose elevated tops were seen towering above the clouds to a most stupendous height. The most south-westerly of these hills was discovered to have a volcano, which continually threw up vast columns of black smoke. It stands not far from the coast, and is also remarkable from its figure, which is a com- plete cone, having the volcano at the very summit. In the after- noon, having three hours' calm, our people caught upwards of a hundred halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds ; this was a very seasonable refreshment to us. While thus engaged, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to us from the large island ; on approaching the ship, he took off his cap and bowed. It was evident that the Russians must have comn.unication and traffic with these people, not only from their acquired politeness, but from their possessing certain articles only used among civil- ised, nations ; thus our present visitor wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth or stuff, under the gut-shirt of his own country. He had nothing to barter except a grey fox- skin and some fishing implements or harpoons, the heads of the shafts of which were neatly made of bone. The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then sunshine, till the afternoon of the 22nd, when the wind came round to the south-east, and, as usual, broilght thick rainy w'cather. Before the fog came on, no part of the mainland was in sight, except the volcano and another mountain close by it. We made but little progress for some days, having the wind variable, and but little of it. jp^Oi xc8 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF I, On the morning of the 25th we got an easterly breeze and, what was uncommon with this wind, clear weather, so that we not only saw the volcano, but other mountains, both to the east and west of it, and all the coast of the mainland under them, much plainer than at any time before. The weather in the afternoon became gloomy, and at length turned to a mist, so thick that we could not see a hundred yards before us. We were now alarmed at hearing the sound of breakers on our larboard bow, and on heaving the lead found twenty-eight fathoms of water. I immediately anchored, and a few hours after, the fog having cleared a little, it appeared that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three-quarters of a mile from the north-east side of an island, and the elevated rocks were about half a league each from us, and about the same distance from each other. There were several breakers about them, and yet Providence had, in the dark, guided the ships between these rocks, which I should not have ventured on a clear day, and to such an anchoring-place that I could not have chosen a better. On a point which bore west from the ship three-quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and their habitations. In this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of them now and then came off to the ships and bartered a few trifling things with our people, but never remained above a quarter of an hour at a time : they rather seemed shy. and yet we could judge that they were no strangers to vessels something like ours. At daybreak on the 28th we weighed with a light breeze at south, which was succeeded by variable light airs from all directions. But as there ran a rapid tide in our favour, we got through before the ebb made, and came to an anchor in twenty- eight fathoms of water near the southern shore. While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, a young man, having upset his canoe while alongside one of our boats, Our people caught hold of him, but the canoe went adrift. The youth, b}'' this accident, was obliged to come into the ship, and he went down into my cabin upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes being wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as CAPTAIN COOK, 109 I and, lat we e east them, in the ist, so e were rboard 3ms of he fog :d very a mile vs were istancc m, and 1 these Ly, and osen a ers of a In this ed they f to the Lit never rather ;rangers reeze at Tom all , we got twenty- ; we lay d a few ig man, )ats, Our ft. The hip, and without 1 clothes f with as much ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and thnt of some others, we were convinced that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to some of thcnr customs. But there was something in our ships that greatly excited their curiosity, for such as could not come off in their canoes assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at them. Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board a note, whicii he presentod to me ; but it was written in the Russian language, which none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and might be of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks by making several low bows as he retired. In walking next day along the shore, 1 met a group of natives of both sexes, seated on the grass at a repast consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a turbot served up with the richest sauce. By the evening we had completed our water, and 'made such observations as the time and weather would permit. Thick fogs and a contrary wind detained us till the 2nd of July, which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the country and of its inhabitants. Having now put to sea, we steered to the north, meeting with nothing to obstruct us in this course, but made very little progress for many successive days, nor met with anything remarkable. On the morning of the i6th we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Here, between two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. I sent Lieutenant Williamson with orders to land, and see what direction the coast took, and what the country pro- duced, for it had but a barren appearance. Soon after, Mr. Williamson returned and Reported that he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in his Majesty's name, and left on the hill a bottle in which was inscribed on a piece of paper the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of Cape Newenham, is a rocky point of tolerable height ; the hills are naked, but on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants. He saw no other animal but a doe and her fawn, and a dead sea-horse or cow upon the beach. no THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OP From the i6th to the 21st nothing- material occurred. On the 2ist we were obHgcd to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the country, each in a canoe, came off to the ship, wliich they approached with great caution, hallooing and opening their arms as they advanced, which we understood was to express their pacific intentions. At length some approached near enough to receive a few trifles that were thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture alongside, and traffic presently commenced between them and our people, who got dresses of skins, bows, arrows, darts, and wooden vessels, our visitors taking in exchange whatever was offered them. They seemed to be the same sort of joeople that we had of late met with all along this coast, wore the same kind of ornaments in their lips and noses, but were far more dirty and not so well clothed. They appeared to be wholly unacquainted with people like us, knew not the use of tobacco, nor was any foreign article seen in tlieir possessiony unless a kn'.fe made of a piece of common iron, fitted in a wooden handle, may be looked upon as such. The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had lately seen, but were broader, and the hole in which the man sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them, so that they all left us scnjner than probably they would otherwise have done. Variable w!..ds with rain prevailed till the 3rd of August, Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other branches of science. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen \o the westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island ; and to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very great regard, I named it Anderson's Island. The next day I removed Mr. Law, the surgeon of the Discovery^ into the Rcsolutioji, and appointed Mr. Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of the Dhco-jcry. CAPTAIN COOK. Ill g- upon y here, f to the ig- and lod was oached ) them, resently jsscs of taking ) be the )nc: this 1 noses, ppeared "the use session, wooden we had he man Lir boats at they 50 have August, under a between ig man, jfession, iches of to the be an Lsed, for derson's n of the Samuel, DR of the At ten in the morning of tlie 5th, with the wind at south- west, we ran down and anchored between the continent and an island four leagues in extent, which was named Sl('(li.'(' Island. I landed here, but saw neither shrub nor tree citht-r upon the island or on the continent. 'J'hat people \vm\ lately been on the island was evident from the marks of feet. \V(.' found, near where we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given by me to the island. It seemed to be such an one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use of over the ice or snow, and was ten feet long, twenty inciics broad, and had a kind of rail-work on each side, and was shod with bone. The construction of it was admirable, and all the parts neatly put together. After several observations, from tlic 61 h to the 9th, 1 was satisfied t'lat the whoh; was a continued coast. I tacked and stood away for its north-west part, and came to anchor near a point of land, which i nam(;(l Capcj I'rince of Wales. It is the western extremity of all America hitherto known. At daybreak in the morning of the loth we resumed our course to the west, and about ten o'clock anchored in a larg(.' bay two miles from the shore. As we were standing into this bay we per- ceived on the north shore a village and som(i people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have thrown into confusion or fear, as we could plainly see persons running up the country with burdens upon their backs. At these habitations 1 proposed to land, and accordingly went with three armed boats, accomp.anied by some; of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each armed with a spontoon and bow and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising gr(jun(i close bv the village. As we drew near, three of them came down towards the shore, and were so polite as to take oil theijcaps and to make us low bows. We returned the civility ; but this did not inspire them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing, lor the moment we put the boats ashore they retired. 1 follcjwed them alone, without anything in my hand, and by signs and gestures prevailed on them to stop and receive some trifling presents. In return for these they gave me two fox-skins and a couple of sea-horse teeth. They seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their desire by signs that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. On my laying my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he 1^ I ! 1 fi 112 T///RD AND LAST VOYAGE OF started back several paces. In proportion as I advanced, tlicy retreated backward, always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears, while those on the risinj^'- w. These they held in constant readiness, never once quitting th 'm, except at one time when four or live persons laid theirs down while they gave us a song and a dance. And even then they placed them in such a manner that they could lay hold of them in an instant, and, for their security, they desired us to sit down. The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of them had barbs, and some liad a round blunt point. What use these mav be applied to I cannot say, unless it be to kill small animals witl jut damaging tlie .skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the American coast, and like those used by the Esquimaux. The spears or spontoons were of iron or steel, and of European or Asiatic workmanship, in which no little pains had been taken to ornament them with carving and inlayings of brass, and of a white metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had the spear slung over their '■'ght shoulder by a leathern strap ; a leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows, and some of the quivers were extremely beautiful, being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery and other ornaments. Several other things, and in particular their clothing, showed that they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity far surpassing what one could expect to fmd among so northern a people. All the Americans we had seen, since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with round chubby faces and high cheek- bones. The people we now were amongst were far from resembling them ; in short, they appea-ed to be quite a different nation. We saw neither women or children of either sex, nor any aged, except CAPTAIN COOK', "3 / one man, ^vho \vas bald-hcad-jd, and lie was llic only owe. who carried no arms ; the others seemed tu Lc incked men, and rather under than above tlie middle aj.Mj. Their clothing consisted of a cap, a Irock, a pair of bouts, und a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins of deer, dogs, or seals, cS:c., and extremely well dressed, some ^^ith the liair oi fur on. The caps were made to lit the head very t lose, and they also had hoods, made of the skin of d(-»gs, that were large enongh to cover both head and shoulders. 1 heir hair seemed to be black, but their heads were either shaved, or tiie hair cut close oil, and none of them wore anv beard. We found the village composed both (jf their summer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, tin; llo(»r of which is sunk a little below the surface of tlie earth. One as of an oval form, abcnit twenty feet long and twelve or more high ; the framing was of wood and the ribs of whales, disposed in a judicious manner, and bound togetlK.T with smaller materials of thi- sann,- b(jrt ; over this fiaining is laid a covering of strong coarse gras.-. ; and that again is covered with earth, so that on the outside the h(juse looks like a little hillock, supported by a wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two sides and one end. At. the other end the earth is raised and sloping, to form a walk up t(; the e-ntran(,(;, which is by a hole in the top of the rocjf over that end. '1 he 1!(joi was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which i saw nothing but water, and at the end of each house was a vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms communi- cated with the house by a dark passage and with the oj)en air by a hole in the roof, which was even with tlie ground (>ne walkt.-d upon ; but they cannot be said to be wholly underground, Un oiu- end leads to the edge of the hill aloii.g which they were made, and which was buil: up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry- box, or tower, composed of the bones of large fish. The sumnxr huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a pf^int at the top ; the framing was of slight, pohjs and bon^.-s, covered v.'ith the skins of sea animal.^. 1 examined the inside of one ; tliere was a fireplace just within the door, where lay a few wf;0(!erj vessels, all very dirty. 'J'heir bed-places v»-ere close to the side, and took up about half the circuit ; some privacy seemed to be i ii4 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF . ii ' j I i i t : Hi 1 observed, for there were several partitions made with skins ; the bed and beddin^^ were of deer-si-x\:A channel that separates thom. Adr.iilting even this, tluM-e would still have been a considerable difference. It was willi nic .1 matter of some consequence to clear up this point the |)1cm'ii( season, that I might have but one object in view the ncxl ; and as these northern isles are represented by liim as aboiMuling with wood, I was in hopes, if i should find thcin, of gelling a supply of that article, which we now began to be in great want of on board. Witli these views I ste(M-ed ov(.t for the Atncaican coast, and on the GlIi we got sight of it. I'ur.suing our course, on the 9th we found ourselves upon a coast C(jv<:red with wood, an agreeable sight, to which of late we had not been aecii.-.l'nned. Next morning, being about a lea.gue from the west shoie, I took two boats and landed, attended by Mr. King, to seeh wood and water. Here we observed tracks of deer and ff^xes on the beach, on which also lay a gri-at f|uantity ol (h-ift-worul ; and there was no want of fresh water. I returned (ju hoard with an intention to bring the ships to an anchor h(;re, but, the wind veering to north-east, I stretch(.'fl over to ilie o|)po'.it(; shore, in hopes of finding wood there also, and anchored ;ii, eight o'clock in the evening; but nf;xt morning we found it to be a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neel: ol land, on each side of which the coast forms a bay, which obtained the name of Cape Denbigh. Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one man came off in a small cano". 1 gave liim a knife and a. lew beads, with which he seemed well pleased. Having made sign', to bring us something to eat, he immediately L':ft us, and jjaddhd towards the shore ; but meeting anothf.-r man coin in;; off who happened to have tv.-o dried salmon, lie got thern, and would give them to nobody but me. Lieutenant Gore being now sent to the peninsula, reported that there was but little fresh v/ater, and that v/ood was dilljeult to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at some distanee from the beach. This being the case, I stood back to the- father shore, and at eight o'clock the next morning 1 sent all the boat', and a party of m.en with an oflicer to get wood from the place where I had landed two days before. Next day a family of the natives came near to our woorliiig P'lrtv. I know not how many there were at first, but i saw f^nly the husband, the wife, and tl.eir child, and a fourth person wIjo I 'ft 120 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF I \ bore the human shape, and that was all, for he was the most deformed cripple I had ever seen. Iron was their favourite article ; for four knives, which we had made out of an old iron hoop, I got from them near 400 lbs. of fish wliich they had caught on this or the preceding day. 1 gave the child, wlio was a girl, a few beads, on which the mother burst into tears, then the fjither, then the cripple, and at last, to complete the concert, the girl herself. Before night we had the ship amply supplied with wood, and had carried on board above twelve tons of water to each. Some doubts being still entertained whether the coast we were now upon belonged to an island or the American continent, and the shallowness of the water putting it out of our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King with two boats under his command to make such searches as might leave no room for a variety of opinions on the subject. This officer returned from his expedition on the i6th, and reported that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues farther than the ships had been able to go ; that he then landed on the west side ; that from the heights he could see the two coasts join, and the inlet terminate in a small river or creek, before which were banks of sand or mud, and evervw^here shoal water. From the elevated spot on which Mr. King surveyed the sound, he could distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers run- ning through them, well wooded and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate height. In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton, Speaker of the House of Commons, and Mr. King's near relative, I named this inlet Norton's Sound. Having now fully satisfied myself that Mr. Stcchlin's map must be erroneous, and having restored the American continent to that space which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, it was high time to think of leaving these northern regions, and to retire to some place during the winter, where I might procure some refreshments for my people and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely to furnish the one or the other for so large a number of men. I had, besides, other reasons for not repairing thither at this time ; the first, and on which all the others depended, was the great dislike I had to lie inactive for six or seven months, which would have been the necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern parts. No place was so con- CAPTAIN COOK. 121 le most we had I. of fish jave the urst into >lete the and had doubts )elonged s of the -ir ships, to make lions on he 1 6th, I or fc Ill- he then see the >r creek, re shoal jyed the ^ers riin- a gentle Norton, ^lative, I must be at space schka, it , and to ire some Dvisions. Paul, in :he other s for not e others or seven lence of so con- veniently within our reach, where we could expect to have our wants relieved as the Sandwich Islands ; to them, tlu-rcjoro, I determined to proceed. On the 2nd of October, at daybreak, wc saw the island of Ooiia- lashka,bearingsouth-cast ; and as all harbours were aliketo me, provi- ded they were equally safe and convenient, I hauled into a bay, li it, finding very deep water, we were glad to get out again. Tlie natives, manyof whom lived here, visited us at ditVerent times, bringing with them dried salmon and other fish, which they exchanged vviili the sea- men for tobacco. A few days before, every ounce of tobacco tiial was in the ships had been distributed among the crew, and the (|u:iii- tity was not half sufficient to answer their demands ; notwithstand- ing this, so improvident a creature is an iMiglisli sailor, that they were as profuse in making their bargains as if they were in a j)(>it of \'irginia, so that in less than eight-and-forty hoi!::> the vakie r bone. They make use of no paint, Init the women puncture their faces slightly, and both men and women bore the under lii)s, to which they fix pieces of bone. Their food consists of flesh, sea animals, birds, roots, and berries, and even of seaweed. They dry large quantities of fish in summer, which they lay u)) in small huts for winter use. They cat everything raw. Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery that I saw them make use of, and the first was probably learnt from the Russians. Some have got little brass kettles, and those who have not make one of a flat stone, with sides of clay. I was once present when the cliief of Oona- lashka made his dinner of the raw heat, (jf a large halibut, just caught. Before any was given to the chief, two of his servants ate the gills, without any other dressing than sciueczing out the slime. This done, one of them cut off the head of the lish, took it to the sea and washed it, then came with it and sat down by the chief, first pulling up some grass, upon a part of which the head was laid, and the rest was strewed before the chief. He then cut large pieces off the cheeks, and laid them within the reach of the great man, who swallowed them with as much satisfaction as we should do raw oysters. When he had done, the remains of the head were cut in pieces and given to the attendants, who tore off the meat with their teeth, gnawing the bones like so many dogs. They produce fire both by collision and by attrition. The former by striking two stones, one against another, on one of which a go(;d deal of brimstone is first rubbed ; the latter method is with two pieces of wood, one of which is a stick about eighteen inches in length, and the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the stick they press upon the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill, thus producing fire in a few minutes. This method is common in many parts of the world. It is practised by the Kamtschadalcs, by these people, by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and probably by many other nations. ! 124 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF The canoes made use of hx the natives are the smallest we had anywhere seen upon the American coast, though built after the same manner, with some httle difference in the construction. The stern of these terminates a httle abruptly, the head is forked, the upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, which is even with the surface of the water ; the framing is of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about twelve feet long, a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or fourteen inches deep. Upon occasion, they can carry two persons, one of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, and the other sits in the seat or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Round this hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which is sewed gut skin, that can be drawn together, or opened like a purse with leathern thongs fitted to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin tight round his body over his gut-pouch, and brings the end of the thongs or purse-string over the shoulder to keep it in its place. The sleeves of his frock are tied tight round his wrists, and it being close round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, where it is confmed by his cap, water can scarcely penetrate either to his body or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate itself, the boatman carries a piece of sponge, with which he dries it up. He uses the double-bladed paddle, which is held by both hands in the middle, striking the water with a quick regular motion, first on one side and then on the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a great rate, and in a direction as straight as a line can be drawn. The fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon the canoes, under straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made in great perfection, of wood and bone, and differ very little from those used by the Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. These people are very expert in striking hsh both in the sea and in rivers. They also make use of hooks and lines, nets, and spears ; the hooks are composed of bone, and the lines of sinews. The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on summits of hills, and raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the coun- try, one of the natives who attended me pointed out several of these receptacles of the dead. There was one of them by the side of the road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a heap of stones. It was observed that every one who passed it added one to it. I saw in the country several stone hillocks, that we had ter the . The ed, the hich is :r laths, long, a L inches I'hom is :hc seat lole is a can be fitted to :hc skin \ of the s place, it being ere it is lis body self, the Lip. He ands in first on mpelled can be canoes, in great Dse used people They ooks are of hills, le coun- veral of the side lich was passed cks, that CAPJ'AIX COOK, »2S seemed to have been raised by ait. M.my d llicni wcic .i|)j).ii cully of great antiquity. In the morning of ^Monday, liu: 2r»ili of o lohor, we pii! i.» wa from Samganoodha harbcnir. Aly inlculiou \\.i'> ikav in jjkm i» i| Io the Sandwich Islands, there ''> sj)ciul a fi u (jI ilic vviiitci niontli-i, in case we should nvjct with tlic nccessai) ',u|»|jili •,, and tlnii h* direct our course to Kamlsclialka, so as \.u ciidcavoui- to l>-.: ihcic by the middle of May in ihc ensuing sunnin r. In < uii:,c(jni ik c <>1 this resolution I gaveCaplain Clcrkc orders Ikjw 1(j prcjcec d in <;a:>e of separation, appoiminy. the Sandwich Idand > f(;i- lii'- hi', I pl.n <• \A rendezvous, and the harbour of l'(tr(jpaul(jw:>l:a, in Jlanjls(,lialk.i, for the second. Nothing reinarkabK; hapjjiincd (hujn;; our voyajM-, and at daybreak on tlie 2Glh of Ncncmbei land w.t , :,j}dite' )1< f.ily discovered, as those which we had visited in {,\\\ pi'/M< ■/. nM/lJjw.ud all lie to the leeward of our j^resent statioij. 1 box ujj ;ii,(l \m\\>(A along the coast to the westward, and it \\:\.\ n(A I people on several parts of the shox-, -.wA sonje lion%es and plantations. The country seemed to be both \.0i\ wooded and watered. We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle h'-h in exeliange- foi nails and pieces of iron. The} brought very little fruit a/id rootv, but told us that they had pl-^n^y of theui on '.heir J .land, a-, ah-o hogs and fowls. In the evening, the hori/.on beiiig ele.ar to lli« westward, we judged the westerjjHiOst land in sight to be an JsIan.'oduee of their country. 1 kept tacking all ni;/ht, and, in the morjiing, stood close in shore. At first only a few of the nati-.es visited us, )>iJt towards noon we had the company of a good many, who brought bread-fruit, potatoes, larro, or eddy-roots, a few plaiitains and siiiall pigs, all of which they exchanged for nails aiid iron tools; indeed, we had nothing else to give them. V.'e continued trading with tljem till four o'clock in the afternoon, when, having disposed of all their cargoes, and not seeming inchned to fetch niore^ v.e mafle sail and siooc en snore. In the afternoon of the 30lh, being off the north east end of tJie island, several canoes came off to the ships. .Most of t}ies<: be- longed to a chief named Terreeoboo, who came in one of llje-m. 126 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF I \ ( : He made me a present of two or three small pigs, and we j^ot by barter from the people a little fruit. After a stay of aljout two hours, they all left us, except six or ei^ht of their company, who chose to remain on board ; a double sailing canoe came soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all night. In the evening we discovered another island to windward, which the natives call Ovvhyhce.* The name of that off which we had been for some days, we were also void, is Mowee. On the 1st of December^ at eight in the morning, finding that we could fetch Owhyhee, I stood for it, and our visitors from Mowee, not choosing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe and went ashore. At seven in the evening we were close up with the north side of Owhyhee, where we spent the night, standing off and on. In the morning of the 2nd wc were surprised to, see the summits of the mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. As we drew near the shore, some of the natives came off to us ; tl"iey were a little shy at first, but we soon enticed some of them on board, and at last prevailed upon them to return to the island and bring off what we wanted. Soon after they had reached the shore, we had company enough, and few coming empty-handed, wc got a tolerable supply of small pigs, fruit, and roots ; we continued trading with them till the evening, when we made sail and stood off. We resumed trading with the natives on the 6Lh and 7th, and procured pork, fruit, and roots, sufficient for four or five days. We then made sail, and con- tinued to work up to windward. Having procu/ed a quantity of sugar-cane, and finding thpt a strong decoction of it produced a very palatable beer, I ordered some more to be brewed for our general use ; but when the cask was now broached, not one of my crew would even so much as taste it. As I had no motive in pre- paring this beverage but to save our spirits for a colder climate, I gave myself no further trouble, either by exerting authority, or by having recourse tc persiT^sion to prevail upon them to drink it, knowing that there was no danger of the scurvy, so long as we could get a plentiful supply of other vegetables. But, that I might not be thwarted in my views, I gave orders that no grog should be served in either ship. I myself, and the offi.cers, continued to make use of * The Sandwich Islands, of which Owhyhee, or Hawaii, is the chief, consist of eight inhabited ishands, and two or three rocky and u-^sohite islets. The former are called Woahoo or Oahu, Mowee, Kawai or Atooi, which Cook had already visited, Molokai, Lanai, Niihaw, and Kahoolawe. Their whole superficial area is 6,000 square miles, 4,000 of which are comprised in Owhyhee alone. CAPTAIN COOK'. 127 I g^ot by Dut two ny, who 3n after In the natives or some that we Mo wee, nd went e north and on. nmits of ew near ittle shy at last ►vhat we ompany ) supply hem till trading uit, and nd con- ntity of iiiced a for our c of my in pre- imate, I r, or by Irink it, 'e could : not be served e use of 5t of eight ire called jMolokai, ire miles, the sugar-cane beer whenever we could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of which we had some on board, improved it much. It has the taste of new malt beer, and I believe no one will doubt of its being very wholesome, yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that it was injurious to their health. They had no better reason to support a resolution which they took on our first arrival in King (ieorge's Sound, not to drink the spruce beer made there ; but, whether from consideration that it was not the first time of their being rctjuired to use that liquor, or from some other reason, they did not attempt to carry their purpose into actual execution, and 1 had never heard of it until now, when they renewed tiieir ignorant opposition to my best endeavours to serve them. livery innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so much to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest di-approbnlion. Uoth portable soup and sour krout were at lirst condemned as stutV untit for htunan beings. P'ew commanders have introduced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of food and drink, than I have done ; indeed, few commanders have had the same opportunities of trying such experiments. I kept at some distance from the coast till the 13th, when I stood in again six leagues farther to windward than we had as yet reached, and, after having some trade with the natives who visited us, stood out to sea. 1 now determined to get round, or at least to get a sight of the south-east end of the island, but the wind was variable between the 14th and i8th, blowing sometimes in hard squalls, and at other times calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the evening it shifted to east bv south, and we stood to the southward, close-hauled under easy sail, as the Discovery was at some distance astern. At this time the south-east point of the island bore south-west by south, about five leagues distant, and I made no doubt that 1 should be able tc weather it. lUit at one o'clock next morning it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a north-easterly swell, which impelled us fast towards the land, so that, long before daybreak, we saw lights and the shore, which was not more than a league distant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain. At three o'clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze, blowing in squalls, with rain, and at daybreak the coast was seen extending from north to south-west, a dreadful surf breaking upon the shore, which was not more than half a league distant. It was evident 128 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF that we had been in the most imminent danj^er ; nor were we yet in safety, the wind veering more easterly, so that for some time we did but just keep oar distance from the coast. What made our situation more alarminj^ was the leech-rope* of the maintopsail giving way, which was the occasion of the sail being rent in two ; and the two topgallant sails gave way in the same manner, though not half worn out. By taking a favourable opportunity we soon bent others, and then we left the land astern. The Discoveyy, by being at some distance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see her till eight o'clock. As soon as daylight appeared, the natives ashore displayed a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friend- ship. Some of them ventured out after us, but the wind freshen- ing, and it not being safe to wait, they were soon left astern. In the afternoon, after making an attempt to weather the eastern extreme, which failed, I gave it up, and ran down to the Disco, 'cry. Indeed, it was of no consequence to get round the island, for we had seen its extent to the south-east, which was what I wanted ; and according to the: information we had gained from the natives, there is no other island to the windward of this. However, as v/e were so near the south-east end of it, and as the least rdiift of wind in our favour would serve to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the idea of weathering it, and therefore continued tacking the ship. On the 2oth, in the afternoon, some of the natives came off in their canoes, bringing with them a few pigs and plantains ; but the supply being barely sufficient for one day, I stood in again the next morning, till within three or four miles of the land, where we were met by a number of canoes, laden with provisions. We brought to, and continued trading with the people '.'11 four in the afternoon, when, having got a pretty good supply, we made sail, and stretched off to the northward. I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion, in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as we experienced in the people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought off for barter, after which they would come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. The people of Otaheite, even * The leech-rope is that vertical part of the bolt-rope to which the edge of the sail is sewed. thi su« CAPTAIN COOK, 129 re we yet e time we made our aintopsail t in two ; -r, though y we soon 'oveyy, hy land, nor isplaycd a ind friend- id frcshcn- istern. In he eastern Disco'^^cry. md, for we 1 wanted ; the natives, ^•cvcr, as we hift of wind wholly give tacking the came off in Kntains ; but in again the d, where we isions. We four in the made sail, reserve and vages, as we common for y brought off es, and make )taheite, even edge of the sail after our repeated visits, do not care to put so niuca confidence in us, whence J infer that those of Owhyheo nuist be more faitliful in their deaUn^s with one anotlier than t'.ie inlialjilants of Ouiheilc are ; for, if little fiilh were observed amonj^st themselves, tliey would not be so ready to trust strangers. It is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, noi to commit a tiiefl. On the 22nd, at four in the afternoon, after purchasing every- thing that the natives had brought off, we made sail, and stretched to the north ; and at midnight wc tacked and stood to the south- east. Supposing that the Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted, but she did not see us, as we :ifterwards found, and continued standing to the north, so that, at da\li,i;lit next morning, she was not in sight. At this time, the weather being ha/.y, we could not see far, so that it was possible the Discoi'cry nught be following us ; and being pasv the north-east j:)art (A the island I was tempted to stand on, till, by the wintl veering to ncjrth-east, we could not weather the land upon the other tack ; consequently we could not stand to the norch, to join or look for the D/sto^ury. At six in the evening we had succeeded in getting to windward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much perseverance. The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen ; but the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, 1 concluded that it would not be long before she joined us ; I therefore kept cruising oft' this south-east point of the island till I was satislied that Cap ain Gierke would not join me here. 1 now conjec- tured that he had not been able to weather the north-east part of the island, and had gone to leeward, in (jrder to meet me that way. As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, no canoes, except one, came oft" to us till the 28tii, when we were visited by a dozen or fourteen. On the morning of the 5th of January, 1779, wc passed the south point of the island, on which stands a pretty large village, the inha- bitants of which thronged off to the ship with hogs. As 1 had now got a quantity of salt, 1 purchased no hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were under size ; however, we could seldom get any above fifty or sixty pounds weight. It was fortunate for us that we had still some vegetables on board, for we now received few such productions ; indeed, this part of the country, from its ap- if ipy H 1 [: I 130 T/I/IID AND LAST VOYAGE OF pearance, did not seem capable of affording them. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano everywhere presented themselves, and though we had as yet seen nothing like one upon the island, the devastation that it had made in this neigh- bourhood was visible to the naked eye. The next morning the natives visited us again, bringing with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being now near the shore, 1 sent Mr. Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to land and to look for fresh water. Upon his return, he reported that he found no running stream, but only rain water, deposited in holes upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea, and that the surface of the country w-as entirely composed of slags and ashes, with a few plants inter- spersed. Between ten and eleven we saw with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the island, and at one in the afternoon she joined us. Captain Gierke coming on board, informed me that he had cruised four or five days where we were separated, and then worked round the east side of the island, but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried to some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on board all this ime, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to qi:'t the ship, though opportunities offered. Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in again the next mc rning, and when we were about a league from the shore, many of the natives visited us. At daybreak on the 8th we found that the currents had carried us back considerably to windward, so that we were now off the south-west point of the island. There we brought to, in order to give the natives an opportunity of trading with us. We spent the night as usual, standing off and on, and, at four in the morning of the nth, the wind being at west, I stood in for the land, in order to get some supplies. We lay to or stood on and off during the next few days, trading with the natives, but got a very scanty supply. At daybreak on the i6th, seeing the appearance of a bay, I sent Mr. Bligh with a boat from each ship to examine it, being at this time three leagues off. Canoes now began to arrive from all parts, so that before ten o'clock there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them crowded with people, and well- laden with hog« and other productions of the island. W^e had the most satisfying proof of their friendly intentions, for we did not see CAPTAIN COOK, 131 5 of its ywhere [ng like 5 ncigh- ig with i\v near ncl the on his ily rain rackish try was > inter- ire the at one board, /e were nd, but to some Dard all used to 1 again e shore, I found rard, so here we trading and, at tood in tood on but got , I sent at this II parts, lousand id well- liad the not see a single person who had ivith him a weapon of any sort ; trade and curiosity alone had brought them off. Among such numbers as we had at that time on board, it is no wonder that some should betray a thievish disposition. One of our visitors took out of the ship a boat's rudder, and was discovered, but too late to recover it. I thought this a good opportunity to show these people the use of lirearms, and two or three muskets, and as many 4-pounders, were fired over the canoe which carried off the rudder ; as it was not intended that any of the shot should take effect, the surrounding multitude of natives seemed rather more surprised than frightened. In the evening Mr. Bligh returned, and reported that he had found a bay in which was good anchorage and fresh water in a situation tolerably easy of access. Into this bay I resolved to carry the ships, there to refit and supply ourselves with every refreshment that the place could afford. As night approached, the greater part of our visitors retired to the shore, but numbers of them requested our permission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at least with some, for the next morning several things were missing, which determined me not to entertain so many another night. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon we anchored in a bay which is called by the natives Karakakooa, in thirteen fathoms of water, and about a quarter of a mile fi-om the north-cast shore. The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. I had nowhere in the course of my voyages seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place, for, besides those who had come off to us in canoes, all the shor^ of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene, and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Euro- peans throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. Captain Cook had now come to the end of his labours, and owing to his murder in Karakakooa Bay within a few weeks of his arrival, his journal ceases at this* point. The remain' .ig transac- tions of the voyage are related by Captain King. F 2 132 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the island of Owhyhee, in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by the low points of land distant half a league from each other. On the north point, which is Hat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa, and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another village of a more con- siderable size, called Kakooa ; between them runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea-shore. On the south side the coast, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance, beyond which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread with cultivated enclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations of the natives are scattered in great numbers. The shore all round the bay is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather, except at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach with a morai, or burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the ships and lay in an additional supply of water and pro- visions, we moored on the north side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in the bay they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant gestures. The sides of the decks and rigging of both ships were soon completely covered with them, and a multitude of women and boys, who had not bceli able to get canoes, came swimming round us in shoals ; many of them not findir' room on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. An ong the chiefs who came on board the Resolution was a young man called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a person of great authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he told him that he was a jackanee to the king of the island, who was at that time engaged in a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to us in the management of his countiymen, as we had soon occasion to experience ; for we had not been long at anchor when it was observed that the Discovery had such a num- ber of people hanging on one 5ide, as occasioned her to heel con- siderably, and that the men were unable to keep off the crowds y CAPTAIN COOK. T33 V which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook being apprehen- sive that she might siilYer some injury, pointed out the danger to Pareea, who immediately sent to their assisiai^cc, cleared the ship of its encumbrance, and drove away the canoes that surrounded he.-. The authority of the chief 'over the inferior pc(-; !<- appeared from this incident to be of the most despotic kind. Asm.ilar instance of it happened the same day on board the Juso/iif/on, v>hen the crowd being so great as to impede the necessary duties of the ship, no were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, ani)ti;Lr of their chiefs, who had likewise attached himself to Captam Cook. The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he im- mediately ordered his countrymen to quit the vessel, and we were not a little surprised to see them jump overboard, without a mo- ment's hesitation, all except one m.an, who, loitering behind and showing some unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms and threw him into the sea. Ikuh these chiefs were men of strong and wcil-proportioned bodies, and of countenances reniark- ably pleasing. Kaneena especially, whose poi'rait was drawn l)y Mr. Webber, v/as one i ^ the finest men I ever baw. He was about six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with Hvely, dark eyes, and his carriage was easy, iirm, and graceful. It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruise near this island the inhabitants had always behaved with fairness and honesty in their dealings, and had not shown tlie slightest propen- sity to theft, which appeared to us the more extraordinary because those with whom we had hitherto held any intercourse were of the lowest rank, either servants or fibhermen. We now found the case exceedingly altered ; the immense crowd of islanders, which blocked up every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opjjortui.ity of pilfering, without risk of discovery, but our numerical infe- riority held forth a prospect of escaping with impunity, in case of detection. Another circumstance, to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the presence and encouragement of their chiefs ; for, generally tracing the booty into the possession of some men of consequence, wc had the strongest reason to sus- pect that these depredations were committed at tlieir instigation. Soon after the Rtsolutioi had got into her station, our two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, wc were told, was a priest, and had been in his youth a distinguished warrior. He was a little old man, of a:i 134 THIRD AXD LAS7' VOYAGE OF \i V U II emaciated fiijurc, his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous scurf, the effects of an immoderate uscofthcava. IJeing led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with him ; then, stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a small pig, which he held in his hand -^vliilst he pronounced a discourse, that lasted for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently repeated during our sta)- at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many circum- s':ances, to Ije a sort of religious adoration. Their idols we found always array ctl with red cloth, in the same manner as was done to Captain Cook, and a small pig was their usual offering to the Eatooas. Their speeches, or prayers, were muttered, too, with a readiness and volubility that indicated them to be according to some formulary. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was set before him, but, like the rest of the inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could scarcely be prevailed on to taste, a second time, our wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by r^Ir. Bayley and myself, accompanied him on shore. We landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands tipped with dogs' hair, and marched before us, pronouncing, with a loud voice, a short sentence, in wliich we could only distinguish the word "Orono."* Captain Cook generally went by this name amongst the natives of Owhyhee, but we could never learn its precise meaning ; some- times they applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, lived in the heavens : and we also found that it was a title belonging to a personage of great rank or power in the island. The crov/d which had been collected on the shore retired at our approach, and not a person was to be seen, except a few lying prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. Before I jn'oceed to relate the adoration that was paid to * IMr, S. S. Hill, in liis " Travels in tlic Sandwich and Society Islands," says that the natives call Cajitain Cook " Lono,*' and entertain tlie tjrcatest veneration for his nieraory. It appears that, at the time of Cook's visit, there were traditions among the people coneerninij' tlie life ard actions of some wondertul person named Lono, \\\u) had lon^ since sud(h'nly disappeared — sujjposed to be blown of! '.he coast in his canoe — but who, it was believed, would one day reappear. Thoug-h several pfcnera- tions liad passed away, Captain Cook was supposed to be this Lono; and, though their god or hero was transformed to a white man, accompanied by mow of another race as his subjects, and without any recollection of his former language, j'et the supernatural resuscitation and return of their hero gave rise to no inquiry or surprise. CAPTAIN COOK '35 body derate iptain ece of )ing a e held for a during ircum- found one to to the with a iing to :d with tn, but, , could spirits, myself, id were is' hair, short rono."* tives of some- ived in ng to a i which d not a ground, paid to says that (jn for his ns among led Lono, 3ast in his l1 genera - (1, though f another }, yet the r surprise. Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with \vlii(,li lie w.-is received on this fatal island, it will he necessary to flisciiSr il,f morai, situated as J have already mentioned, at tlx sfjiitli :,i(l( ped x'awA v/itli r':d cloth. \Vv; were here met by a tall young man with a long beard, who presented Captain Cook to the images,, and, after ch.mtiri;; a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to \^^■.^x end of the morai where the five pole-, were fixed. At th'; foot of them were twelve imaees raneed m a sernicirc't];..r for-.i. ,'jrjd before the middle figure stood a high stand or ta!^.'' , e/aetiy resembling the *' whatta "' (jf ''Jtaheitc, on which li.y :!. p itrid h(>^;, and under it pieces of sugar-e.sne, cocoa-nuts, Ijrearl-fr ;t, ph'-.ntajijs, and sweet potatoes. Koah having placed the eriptain urider this stand, took down the hog, and held it to'.-.ards hi-M ; ;).nd -M' x having a second time addresserl him in a Ion;; sfjeeel , joror.o'jrjce'-i with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall to tliC ground, ^.xA led him to the scaffolding, which they began to chn-h together, ,'.o' without great risk of falling. At this lime v/e- sav/ cornir.g ,/; solemri procession, at the entrance of the top of the rnor;),i, tv.o men carrying a live hog and a large piece of x'-A cloth ; havir.g advanced a few paces, they stopped and prostrated t}icra''>elve-., and Ka^reekeea, the young man aoove rnenhoned, v.er.t 'o ther*; and received the cloth, carried it to Koalj, v.ho v, rapped it x(i'^^i'\ the captain, and afterwards offered him the hog, v.hieh v/ai h.'-oe'gl.' by Kaireekeea v.dth the same ceremony. 136 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF . ' Wf Ml ii Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in this awkward situation, swathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his h(Ad amongst the pieces of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, chanting sometimes in concert, and some- times alternately. This lasted a considerable time, until at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the captain descended together. He then led him to the images before mentioned, and iuiving said something to each in a sneering tone, snapping his lingers at them as he passed, he brought him to that in the centre, which, from its being covered with red cloth, appeared to be held in greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he pros- trated himself and kissed it, desiring Cajitain Cook to do the same, who suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the other division of tlie moral, where there was a space, ten or twelve feet square, sunk about three feet below the level of the area ; into this we descended, and Captain Cook was seated between the wooden idols, Koah supporting one of his arms, whilst I was desired to support the other. At this time arrived a second procession of natives, carrying a baked hog and a pudding, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea put himself at their head, and presenting the pig to Captain Cook in the usual manner, began the kind of chant as before, his companions making regular responses. We observed th It, after every response, their parts became gradually shorter, till, toward the close, Kaireekeea's consisted of only two or three words, which the rest answered b\' the word Orono. When this offering was concluded, which lasted a quarter of an hour, the natives sat down fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetal)les, and break the cocoa-nuts ; whilst others employed themselves in brewing the ava, which is done by cliewmg It, ni the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, head, hands, arms, and shoulders. 'Jlie ava was then handed round, and after we had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began to pull the flesh of the hog m pieces, and to put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person ; but Captain Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel, and I CAPTAIN COOK. m his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not .liminisliod, wlicn iho old man, accordin;; to his own mode of civility, had chewed it lor him. When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain (Ook put an end to as soon as he decently coidd, he ([uitftHl the iiior.n, after distributing; amongst the people some j)i(ces of iron and otiu i- trifles, with which they seemed liigldy gratified. The men wiijj wands conducted us to the boats, repeating the same words as before ; the people again retired, and the few that remained pros- trated themselves as we passed along the shore. We imm<'diat(jly went on board, our minds full of what we liad seen, and extn.incly well satisfied with the good disposition of om- new friends. 'J iu^ meaning of the various ceremonies with which we had been re- ceived, and which, on account of their novelty and singularity, have been related at length, can only be the subject of conjecturc-s, and those uncertain and partial ; they were, howev .r, without doubt, expressive of high respect on the part of the natives, and, as far as related to the person of Captain Cook, they seemed ap- proaching to adoration. The next morning 1 went on shore, with :. guard of 'iylit marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having ord death, and th.at ol his queen, in London; the establishment of the Roman Catholic mission, in 1827 ; the adoption of a constitutional form of government by King Kame- hameha the Jhi'-d, in 1840; .ind the recognition f^l the independence of the islands by the governments of Queen Victoria and Louis Philippe, in 1843. f CAPTAIN COOK. 139 'J these circumstances, he resolved to pay them a visit, and as he expected to be received in the same manner as belorc, he brouglit Mr. Webber with him to make a drawing of the cciemony. On his arrival at tlie beach, he was conducted to a sacred buildini;- called IIarre-no-()rono, or the house of (Jrono, and seated before the entrance at the foot cf a wooden idol, of tlif^ same kind wiiii those in the moral. 1 was here again made to support one of his arms, and, after wraj^ping him in red cloth, Kaircckeea, accom- panied by twelve priebts, ma.de an offering of a pig with tlie usual solemnities. The pig was then strangled, and a fn-e being kindled, it was thrown into the embers, and after the hair was singed off, it was again presented uith a repetition of tlie clip.nting, in the manner before descriljcd. 'ihe dead pig was then held for a short time under the captain's nose, after which it was kiid with a cocoa-nut at his feet, and the jjcrformers sat dou'n. The ava was then brewed and handed round ; a fat hog, rcatiy dressed, was brought in, and we here fed as l^efore. During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, wlienever Captain Cook came on shore he was attended ]j\ one of these priests, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering tlie people to prostrate themsehcs. The same person also constantly accompanied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in liis hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they im- mediately left off paddling, and la> down on their faces till he had passed. Whenever wc stopped at the observatory, Kaireei<.eea and his brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, cocua- nuts, bread-fruit, t\:c.,and presented them with the usual solemnities. It was on these occasions that some of the inferior oliiefs frcciuently requested to be permitted to r 1 an offering to the Orono ; when this was granted, they presenter the hog themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances, whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their accustomed hymns. The civilities of this society were not, however, connncd to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on shore i-ecoived from them, every day, a constant supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for our subsistence, and several canoes, loaded with pro- visions, were sent to the ships with the same punctuality. Xo return was ever demanded or even hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents were made with a regularity more like the discharge 1- '• 140 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF of a religious duty llian the effort of mere liberality ; and when vvc inquired at whose charge all this munilicence was displayed, we were told it was at the expense of a great man called Kaoo, the cliicf of the priests, and grandfather of Kaireekeea, who was at that lime al;sent, attending llie king of the island. As everything relating to the character and behaviour of this people must be interesting to the reader, on account of the tragedy th.at was afterwards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him that we had not always so much reason to be satisfied with the con- duct of the warrior chiefs, or lOarces, as with that of the priests. In all our dealings with the former we found thcin sufliciently attentive to their own interests ; and besides their habit of stealing, which may admit of some excuse from the universality of the practice amongst the islanders of these seas, they made use of other artifices equally dishonourable. Things continued in this state till the 24th, when we were a good deal surprised to find that no canoes were suffered to put ofl from the shore, and that the natives kept close to their houses. After several hours' suspense, we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourse with us interdicted on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. As we had not foreseen an accident of this sort, the crews of both ships were obliged to pass the day without their usual supply of vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they endea- voured, both by threats and promises, to induce the natives to come alongside, and, as some of them were at last venturing to come oft", a chief was observed attempting to drive them away. A musket was immediately fired over his head to make him desist, which had the desired effect, and supplies were soon after purchased as usual. In the afternoon, Terreeoboo arrived, and visited the ships in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He stayed on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa. The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled towards the ships in great state, presenting a striking aj^pearance. In the fi.rst canoe was Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers ; in the second canoe the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his brethren, with their idols displayed on icd cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wickcrwork, and curiously CAPTAIN COOK, 141 m wc i, we 3, the t that f this igedy t him I con- is. In entive which •act ice rLifices I cfood I from After d, and ival of )rt, the usual endca- come me off, nusket which sed as ships ere his :, when tended ds the he first ithered ers ; in ;ts, and ;e idols iriously covered with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner as their cloaks ; tiicir eyes wer jnade of larj.'c; pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the cent/c, I heir moiiihs were set with a double row of the fan^^s of doj;s, and, toKdher wilh the rest of their features, were stran;^^ely distorted. 'I'lie tliiid canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung their liymns with };reat solemnity, and, after paddhng round the shij)s, instead of going on board, as was expected, they made towards the siiore at the beach where we were stationed. As soon as 1 saw them approaching, 1 ordered out our little guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on shore, followed him and airived nearly at the same time. We conducted them into the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, when the king rose up, and, in a very graceful manner, threw over the cajjtain's shoulders tlie cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet upon his head and a curious fan into his hand. He also spread at his feet live or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the great(jst value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit ; and this part of the ceremf>ny was concluded by the king exchanging names with Cajjtain Ojok, which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific (Jcean, is esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. A procession of j;riests, with a venerable old personage at their head, now appeared, f(jllowed by a long train of men leading large hogs, and others with jjlantains, sweet potatoes, and other articles of food. By the looks and ges- tures of Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priests before mentioned, on whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, whicli he wrapped round Captain Cook's shoulders, and afterwards jvresented him with a small pig in the usual form. A seat was then made for him next to the king, after which Kaireekeea and his fol'owers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs joining in the responses. I was surprised to see, in the person of this king, the same infirm and emaciated old man that came on board the RcsolutioJi v.hen we were off the north-east side of the is/and of Mowee, and we soon discovered amongst his attendants rnosi of the persons who, at that time, had remained with us all night. Of this number were the two younger sons of the king, the eldest of whom was sixteen years of age, and his nephew, ^iaiha-Maiha, whom at first we had some I- hi! I 1 . 143 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF difficulty in recollecting, his hair being plastered over with ci dirty- brown paste and powder, which was no mean heightening to the most savage face I ever beheld. As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace would hold, on board the Resolution. They were received with every mark of respect thnt could be shown them. And Captain Cook, in return for the feallicred cloaks, put a linen shirt on the king, and girt his own hanger round him. Kaoo and about half a dozen old chiefs remained on shore and took up their abode at the priests' houses. During all this time not a canoe was seen in the bay^ and the natives either kept within their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. Ik^ore the king left the Ri'soliiiion, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and trade with the ships as usual ; but the women, for what reason we could not learn, still continued under the effects of the taboo. The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having taken away every apprehension of danger, we did not hesitate to trust our- selves amongst them at all times and in all situations. The officers of both ships went daily up the country in small parties, or even singly, and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endless to recount all the instances of kindness and civility which we received upon these occasions ; wherever we went the people flocked about us, eager to offer any assistance in their power, and highly gratified if their services were accepted. Various little arts were practised to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The bc^ys and girls ran l:)cfore us as we walked through the villages, and stopped us at every opening where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one time we were wanted to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or some other refreshment, under the shade of their huts ; at another we were seated within a circle of young women, who exerted their skill and agiUty to amuse us with songs and dances. The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hospitality was, however, frequently interrupted by the propensity to stealing which they have in common with all the other islanders of these seas. This circumstance was the more distressing as it sometimes obliged us to have recourse to acts of severity, which we would willingly have avoided if the necessity of the case had not absolutely called for them. Some of their most expert swimmers were one day discovered under the ships, drawing out the tilling-nails of the CAPTAIN COOK, L dirty- to the of the nianv Thcy shown , put a Kaoo \ took ; not a \\ their eft the lie and son wo I taken List our- officers Dr even Duld be / which people er, and :tle arts Darture. igh the oom to accept der the ;ircle of us with ;pitahty steahng )f these netimes ; would solutely one day of the »»i shcathin^% which they i)eiforiiH'(l very 'loxtcrou'^ly, hy means of .1 short stick with a 'int stmic lixed in tin: tjiid ol ii. 'I'<» pn a ■.i,,|, to this practice, which endatv.'t.MTfl the very rxisieiiee of the ve'.',el--», we at first fired small shot al tlie olleixlers, l»iit th^y «;r,ily ;»()| nut of our reach by divin^^ under the ship's hotioni ; il vva. lli< rcluic found necessary to niakj an example l>y li'n;;',m;.; one ol tin in on board the Disco7>cr\\ About this time a larc^e party of p^entlemen, fiom lioth sliips. set out on an excursion into tlie interir^r of the (ountty, v/ith a vmw ol examining its natural pro(hictif>ns ; and it ;ill'»r he was informed of their departure he- sent a lar;-/; Mipjjjy ol j^ro- visions after them, together with orders tha.t the- inhahilanls ol tlie country through which they were to pass sliould jove ih' in every assistance in their power ; and, to complete- the- deli' ;iey arifl ;th ^ ar>tajn Cicrke. v.-hose ill-health confined him for tlie most pan on ooard, paid Terreeoboo his first visit at his hut on sliore. ife- v/as received with the same formalities as were observed towards Taj^t.^m '.ook ; ar'd on his coming av.-ay, though the visit v/a-i ouiie en';/}jeet':d, \\i'. received a present of thirty large hogs, and as much fruit ar/: root!* as his crew could consume in a v.-eek. As we had not seen anything of their sports or athhrtic ezereiv:», the natives, at the request of some of our officers, enterturied tji> this evenir.:^ with a boxing match. 7ho-jgh these j^arnes were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity and magnificence as \n t/je skill and prowess of the com"oatanv-;, to what we had seen czhibited at the Friendly Islands, yet, as they difi'ered in some particulars, it may not be improper to give a short ac^yvunt of th'rm, V»'e i'jitid a vast concourse of people assembled on a level !ipot of ground, at a ' R I I 144 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF little distance from our terxts. A long space was left vacant in the midst of then-], at the upper end of which sat the judges, under three standards, from which hung slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches of feathers. When the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came forward slowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing their hands along the soles. As they approached they frequently eyed each other from head to foot in a contemptuous manner, casting several arch looks at the spectators, straining their muscles, and using a variety of affected gestures. Being advanced within reach of each other, they stood with both arms held out straight before their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They struck in what appear-^d to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full swing of the arm ; made no attempt to pa.'ry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an Inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided, for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by accident, he was considered as vanquished, and the victor expressed his triumph by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was intended, a loud laugh among the spectators. He then waited for a second antagonist, and if again victorious, for a third, till he was at last in his turn defeated. A singular rule observed in these combats is, that whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person may step in, and choose either of them for his antagonist, when the other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each other in this manner before the match as settled. When the combat proved longer than usual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally stepped in, and ended it by putting a stick between the combatants. The same good-humour was preserved througnout which wc before so much admired in the Friendly islanders. As these games were given at our desire, we found it universally expected that we should have borne our part in them ; but cur people, though much pressed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the Friendly Islands. This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's crew, an event which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto be^n very rare amongst us. He was an old man, and much respected on account of his attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine twenty-one years ; after which I CAPTAIN COOK, 145 the crew. he entered as a seaman on board the Resolution in 1772, and served with Captain Cook in his voyage towards the vSouth Pole. On their return, he was admitted into Greenwich Hospital through the captain's interest, at the same time with himself; and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his benefactor, he also quitted it along with him on his being appointed to the command of the present expedition. At the request of the king of the island, he was buried on the moral, and the ceremony was performed with as much solemnity as our situation permitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were spec- tators, and preserved the most profound silence and attention whilst the service was reading. When we began to fill up the grave, they approached it with great reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, and plantains ; and, for three nights after- wards, they surrounded it, sacrificing hogs, and performing their usual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued tiU day- break. At the head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed upon it a square piece '^f board, on which was inscribed the name of the deceased, his age, and the day of his death. This they promised not to remove ; and we have no doubt but that it will be suffered to remain as long as the frail materials of which it is made will permit. The ships being in great want of fuc"., Captain Cook desired me, on the 2nd of February, to treat with the priests for the purchase of the rail that surrounded the top of the morai. I must confess I had at first some doubt about the decency of this proposal, and was apprehensive that even the bare mention of it might be con- sidered by them as a piece of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself mistaken ; not the smallest surprise was expressed at the application, and the wood was readily given, even without stipulating for an} thing in return. Whilst the sailors were taking it away, 1 observed one of them carrying off a carved image ; and, on further inquiry, I found that they had conveyed to the boats the whole semicircle. Though this was done in the presence of the natives, who had not shown any mark of resentment at it, but had even assisted them in the removal, I thought it proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only desired that we would restore the centre image I have mentioned before, which he carried into one of the priests' houses. J46 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF ;f ' ■* \'\\ Terfeeoboo and his cliiefs had for some days past been very inquisitive about the time of our departure. This circumstance had excited in me a great curiosity to know what opinion this people had formed of us, and what were their ideas respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. 1 took some pains to satisfy myself on these points, but could never learn anything further than that they imagined we came from some country where provisions had failed, and that our visit to them was merely for the purpose of filling our bellies ; indeed, the meagre appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase as much as we were able, led them naturally enough to such a conclusion. To these may be added a circumstance which puzzled them exceedingly, our having no women with us, together with our quiet conduct and un- warlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to sec them stroking the sides and patting the bellies of the sailors, who were certainly much improved in the sleekness of their looks during our short stay on the island, and telling them, partly by signs, and partly by words, that it M^as time for them to go ; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit season, they should be better able to supply their wants. We had now been sixteen days in the bay ; and if our enormous consumption of hogs and vegetables be considered, it need not be wondered that they should wish to see us take our leave. It is very probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view in his inquiries at present than a desire of making sufiicient preparation for dismissing us with presents suitable to the respect and kindness with which he had received us ; for, on our telling him we should leave the island on the n xt dav but one, we observed that a sort of proclamation was immediately made through the villages to require the people to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to present to the Orono on his departure. We were this day much diverted, on the beach, by the buffooneries of one of the natives. His style of dancing was entirely burlesque, and accompanied with strange grimaces and pantomimical distor- tions of the face, which, though at times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet, on the whole, was without much meaning or expression. In the evening, we were again entertained with wrestling and boxing matches, and we displayed in return the few fireworks we had left. Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration of these CAPTAIN COOK, HI our islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our great supviio;ily, than an exhibition of tliis kind. The carpenters from both ships havinj.', been sent iij) l!u' < ouiilry to cut planks for the head-railwork of the Rtwohitioit, this hciiij; tin: third day since their departure, wc began to be viry auxioii:. loi their safety. We now communicated our ;ipj)niK'nsions to old Kaoo, who appeared as nmch concerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures with him for sending after lliem, when lh< y arrived in safety. They had been obliged to go farther jnlo the country than was expected, before they met wilii trees iit for their purpose ; and it was this circunistanee, together with the ba(hu-,s of the roads and the difliculty of bringi-.g back the limber, which had detained them so long. They spoke \\\ hij'ji term:, (S ih< n guides, who both supplied them with {jrovisions, and guarded ih' n tools with the utmost fidehty. The next day being IiaccI for om departure, Terreeoboo invited Ca[jtain Cook and myself to attend him on the 3rd to the pkice where l\aoo resided. On our arriv;ij, \ve found the ground covered with parcels of cloth, a vast quanlily of red and yellow feathers tied t(j the fibres of c(>coaruii jjushs, and a great number of hatchets and other pieces of ir<>n-w."cre tlia', had been got in barter from us. At a little- distance from tljcsc lay an immense quantity of vegetables of cw^^x)' kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. At first, we ima;/ined the w)jole to l>e intended as a present for us, till Kaireekeea informed me that it was a gift or tribute from the ];eople of that district to iln: king ; and accordingly, as we were seated, they brougiit all the bunflle-.^ and laid them severally at Terreeoboo's feet, s[jreading out the cloth and displaying the feathers and iron- ware before hini. 'i he king seemed much pleased v,ith this mark of their duly ; ai;d having selected about a third part of the iron-v-are, the san^e jne portion of feathers, and a fc-.v pieces of cloth, thc.e were set asjde by themselves, and the remainder of the cloth, together witJj all lh'. hogs and vegetables, were afterwards presented to Captain Cook and myself. We were astonislied at the value and n'jagnjiude of this present, which exceeded everything of tlie kind v.t )iad s<;en either at the Frieridly or Society Islands. Jioals were imrnedi.atejy sent to earn- them on board ; the large hogs were picked out lo i>e salted for sea store, and upv.,irds of thirty sriiaJler p;;is and the vegetables were divided betv\een the two crev/s. The same cay v.-e quitted the rnorai and got tlie tent:-, and a'.t;o 1- 148 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF nomical instruments on board. The charm of the taboo was now removed, and we had no sooner left the place than the natives rushed in and searched eagerly about in expectation of finding something of value that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the last on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several came crowding round me, and having made me sit down by them, began to lament our separation. It was, indeed, i:ot without difficulty I was able to quit them. Having had ihe command of the party on shore during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than those whose duty required thcni to be generally on board. As I had every reason to be satisfied with their kindness in general, so I cannot too often nor too particularly mention the unbounded and constant friendship of their priests. C)n my part I spared no endea- vours to conciliaLC *heii affections and gain their esteem ; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was strongly solicited to remain behind, not without offers of the most flattering kind. When I excused myself by jaying that Captain Cook would not give his consent, they proposed that I should retire into the mountains, where they said they would conceal me till after the departure of the ships, and on my further assuring them that the captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed 1 was, with a formal request that I might be left behind. The captain, to avoid giving a positive refusal to an offer so kindly intended, told them that he could not part with me at that time, but that he should return to the island next year, and would then endeavour to settle the matter CO their satisfaction. Early in the morning of the 4.th of February we unmoored and sailed out of the bay, with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's design, was to finish the survey of Owhyliee before we visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting with a road better sheltered than the bay we had just Icit ; and in case of not succeeding here, he purposed to take a view of the south-east part of Mowec, where the natives informed us we should find an excellent harbour. We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our progress to the northward very slow. We were accompanied by a great number IS now latives inding )pened J boat, )\vn by them. whole better them, d. As iral, so id and endea- and I cf our remain ^hen I ive his ntains, ture of would d upon formal feivmg cri hat he turn to matter ed and i were rn was lands, 3ay we sed to latives i calm ress to umber CAPTAIN COOK. 149 of these natives in their canoes, and Teirccol)oo ^mvc a frcsli jtioof ot his friendship to Captain Cook by a hir^c iirL-sciU of lioj^s and vegetables that was sent after him. In the night of the 5th, having a lij^lit l)iciv.c off the land, wc made some way to the northward, and in the morniii;.; of th' 6th, having passed th? westernmost point of th(i isl.-iiid, wc; found our- selves abreast of a deep bay called by the natives I It was with a ler the [ above before, 2 usual e child ctly re- double- the Sth, ; fishes"^ »und, on iefecii\c course, or some g with a L That .it that a epairing ned, the drained. ) leave a Duld not e failure e there- give the om their re, a few icre was sted out rent with bay for variable, progress le 9th it ed us to nd concave r masts, or ^ bolts and i close-reef the topsails. At Uvo in ilic moi lun;', <*l ili< I'.ih, m .1 heavy squall, we found ourselves close in wilii iIk- I r.-imc tM n, n ,, /k/im which we learnt that tlic late slonns had don«- jm;' h nir,' I.j' \, .wA that several lar^^e canoes had been lo-i. J^unn;.; iIk- i« jii.im.<; a disturbance. At his requea, therefore, i ser;l a njann*- ;do/-j^ v/dh hirn. but sunered him to take only }jis side-arLo'i. i/j ;i :J-o;! Utnf. the officer returned, and, on his acquainlin;'^ j.';e ^/ja» ij!'; liiUnnU:!^ iia/J armed theniselves v.jth stones. a;.d v.ere ;-;/ov, n -.'.ry rijn;ult!io'Ji, i went mvself to the sr-/Ot. attenced ]jy a /naij.'ie v.JOi jji^j jnijbk.trl, Seeing us approach, they threw av.'ay their Mojje?;,a!.d o/; //jv tj> ihin^-s quiet here. I went to rr.eet Captain (jj^jk, v.;,o;:- i >,;5vy '/jiumy^ <:n shore :n the pir.na':':. i relate'l to liirn what liad jutst j/ai,t,Mi, an- he ordered me, in 'jase of their be^^innin;'^ "> Oj'ow Moi.et 0/ bthave i'solently, immedi-ate^y lo iirt a baii at ij;e oflej.'.« rb. J arc^rdingiy ga-/e' orders to l;-e oorporaJ to ijave i)i.e pie<.et 'A ib«; sentmels'loaced vi-ith bail, instead of '.maji -vIjoI. So'jn after o^jr returr. to the ter.t^. wt were 'di^nn'-A uy a oof/tjrmtvC f^rt of m-'j.skets from the Dmoviryy whioh we obvrrved to i/*. '.i/< •'.«/; a: a CEj:.oe that 't^t s-aw pacdJjnjf toward-i i)j<: %\i.i/XK iu '^irtkiX i.-i.t>i^:. pursued bv one of our sr/^aJl ryjals. V.'e ,j:x;.ooodAa.l«riy ooi>oj>ot/; iba: the trm? was :n c^jnsequenoe of y;iri.e tiidi, and <,'n\Aa.ii. C'yA orderec ine lo fvliow him w;ih an arm'^Q marj/;e, a>'id to ♦.->'.c*';7V'/^f to seize tdic people as they oame on U^ore. Aooorc/nj^^jy v^«: /i»-r t:w2-rd£ *_ht p.u:.e where wt vy^\yji>''A the ear.ve weople will ohlry hm lo 1.,. j.i,,,,. violent measures ; for they inti.t no' ix- |. fi t./ ihm-'uk- ili.ii ilu-y have gained an advantage over us.' li(Avrv hf-wi^' now much abated by the events of the fl.iy, 1 \>',x>A ;i douhli: jMjar«i on the morai, with orders to cull nnj if iliL-y -.aw .Miy m* ;. \h'iV\\\\\ about the beach. At about eleven o'f.lof.k fiv<^ i'>l;j.nM»-r'v v/<:i«: observed creeping round tlie botlom of rlie morai ; Ui«-y -.i.i.wnA very cautious in approaching us, and, at V.vX^ fir^'im;'^ lii«:ni'-,'.]v<:>* discovered, retired out of sig},i. About inMnigli'. one of \\\*:u\ venturing up close to the observatory, the sentind hn;'! ov r hji/j,o;» which the man tied, and we passed th': r'ji.'jaind':.- of rh*: \.\\'\A without further disturbance. Next rnoriiing al daylj^d.i 1 v, ':.•,? 0/1 board the Resolution for the timekeeoer, and on r;.v v,;-", hailed by the Discoi'oy, and ]rAr.x\ y..ii.Vit.',i for its recovery. It had been his usujiI pra'.tJO':. v.he.'.'rv .: a;.y*J..;j^ of consequence v/as lost at any of the r-il^xiA'i in th;b :. "v.arC, and Vj h*-.^]/ them as hostages till it was restore''! 'Jh.'i r.vr*.;jod, "Vkh./.:. ;^'> been ai-A-ays attended with suceei;, he r;.eaLt t<> pvri •-«:'>•/. ';.« present occasion ; and at the same t^rr.e had j;ivfrn orders to ^rvp a.: tne crjic^es tnat snouiO attempt to leave t.'.e ^jzy, w.i;, r;.r. j//.t^- tion of sei^ir.? and destroying them if he •.. . -, :,^. v.'/j\*:j *hK cur.er by peaceable means. Accorcingiy t:.--; voa'^ vf bvh vh-^i; well rt.anned ar.'i armed, were station*;'! a',Tv I "eft the sb:o some ;^reat ^ -.as had bee:. * -e- :he ba . . ar^'i b'^'^re # - a*, tv. Ifcj^e '.^-'-'/«. iLat we ^«-^ *o .a:>e. I^ 'A a*: .f' y (;^»^ ^_J ;^^. 154 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF f \ if 1 o'clock when we quitted the ship together : Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips and nine marines with him, and myself in the small boat. The last orders I received from him were to t[uiet the minds of the natives on our side of tlif'' bay, by assuring them they should not be hurt, to keep my people together, and to be on my guard. We then parted ; the captain went towards Kowrowa, where the king resided, and i proceeded to the beach. IVIy first care, on going ashore, was to give strict orders to the marines to remain within the tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. Afterwards I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them, as well as I could, the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed them. I found that they had already heard of the cutter being stolen, and I assured them that though Captain Cook was resolved to recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village on our side, need not be under the sm;vllest apprehension of suffering any evil from us. I desired the priests to explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo asked me, with great earnestness, if Torreeoboo was to be hurt. I assured him he was not, and both he and the rest of his brethren seemed much satisfied with this assurance. In the meantime Captain Cook, having called off the launch, which was stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the usual marks of respect, the people prostrating themselves before him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his design, his next step was to inquire for Terreeoboo and the two boys, his sons, who had been his constant guests on board the Resolution. In a short time the boys returned along with the natives who had been in search of them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the house where the king had slept, and after a short conversation with him about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain Cook vas convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, he invited him tO return in the boat and spend the day on board the Resolution. To this proposal the king readily assented, and immediately got up to accompany him. : in the m, and iin were Lssurin^ , and to .owcirds : beach, to the lall, and s of old uldjtlie 1 found assured and to 2 of the ision of this to ontinue ness, if d both th this launch, ikcn it th the ito the set, the their Kvas no eeoboo jsts on along diately d after r, from rivy to board d, and CAPTAIN COOK, 155 Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced near the water-side, when an elderly woman called Kanee-Kabareea, the mother of the boys, antl one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and, with many tears and entreaties, besou[,du him not to go on board. At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him and forced him to sit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably been alarmed by the liring of the great guns and the appearance of hostility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. In this situation, the lieutenant of marines observing that his men were huddled close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms, if any occasion should rec[uirc it, proposed to the captain to draw them up along the rocks close to the waters edge ; and the crowd readily making- way for them to pass, they were drawn up in a line, at the distance of about thirty yards from the place where the king was sitting. All this time the old king remained on the ground, with the strongest marks of terror and dejection in his countenance. Cap- tain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on shore, continued to urge him in the most pressing manner to proceed ; whilst, on the other hand, whenever the king apjieared inclined to follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, at first wit\ prayers and entreaties, but afterwards with force antl violence, insisting on his staying where he was. Captain Cook, therefore, und ng that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting the king off without bloodshed, at last gave up the point, observing to Mr. Phillips that it would be impossible to compel him to go on board without the risk of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on shore had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have been in the least danger till an accident happened, which gave a fatal turn to the af(\iir. The boats which \.\'^ been stationed across the bay having tired at some ca^ ,. that were attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, just as he had left the king and was walking slowly towards the shore. The ferment it made was very conspicuous \ 156 THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF the women and children were immediately sent off and the men put on their war-mats and armed themselves with spears and stones. One of the natives having in his hands a stone and a lar^e iron spike, which they call a pahooa, came up to the captain, nourishing his weapon by way of defiance, and threatening^ to throw the stone. The captain desired him to desist, but the man persistinj^ in his insolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat on, which tiie shot were not able to pene- trate, this had no other effect than to irritate and encourage them. Several stones were thrown at the marines, and one of the erees attempted to stab Mr. Phillips with his pahooa, but failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the butt-end of his musket. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general attack witli stones immediately followed, which was answered by a discharge of musketry from the marines and the people in the boats. The islanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire with great hrmness, and before the marines had time to reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a scene of the utmost horror and confusion. Four of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangerously wounded, and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the shoulders with a pahooa, having fortr ;ately reserved his fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he was going to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was standing at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to cease firing and to pull in. Whilst he fLiced the natives none of them had offered him any violence, but having turned about to give his orders to the boats he was stabbed in the back, and fell on his face into the water. On seeing him fall the islanders set up a great shout, and his body was immedi- ately dragged on shore and surrounded by the enemy, who, snatch- ing the dagger out of each other's hands, showed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. Thus fell our great and excellent commander ! After a life of so much distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as regards himself, cannot be reckoned premature, since he lived to finish the great work for which he seemed to have been designed ; CAPTAIN COOK. ^^1 : men tones, i iron ishinj; stone, in his shot, pene- thcni. erees in the of his :l with encral d by a boats, od the cload, What \ their ; more iived a ;ately t as he ler, the s edge. Whilst ice, but tabbed ig him nmedi- snatch- jerness fe of so far as lived to iigned ; and was rather removed from the enjoyment than cut off from the acquisition of ^lory. How sincerely his loss was ^clt and lamented by those who had so long found their general security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation under their hardshij-)s in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe ; much less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were struck, and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful and unexpected a calamity. The i()th was chiclly taken up in sending and receiving the mes- sages which passed between Captain Clerke and Terrceoboo. Eappo was very pressing that one of our ofliccrs should go on shore, and in the meantime oftered to remain as a hostage on board. Tliis recjucst, howc\'cr, it was not thought proper to comply with, and he left us with a promise of bringing the bones of Captain Cook the next day. At the beach the waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the natives, who, notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again without the smallest ap- pearance of diffidence or apprehension. Early in the morning of the 20th we had the satisfaction of get- ting the fore-mast stepped. It was an operation attended with great difficulty and some danger, our ropes being so exceedingly rotten that the purchase gave way several times, lietween ten and eleven o'clock we saw a great number of people descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, taro, and plan- tains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers, who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white tlag, and began to beat their drums, while those who had followed them advanced one by one, and having deposited the presents they had brought, retired in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in his hands, and having seated himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent to him. Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pmnace to receive them, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pin- nace, and delivered to the captain the bones wr.apped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterwards attended us to the RcsolutioUy u 158 27/JRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF but could not be prevailed upon to go on board, probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the forefinger the whole length of the meta- carpal bone ; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting ; the scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it, the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them ; the thigh and leg bones joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the tire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the skull was free from any fracture. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us had been seized by different chiefs, and that Terrecoboo was using every mears to recover them. The next morning Eappo and the king's son x-ame on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us that Terreeoboo, Maiha- maiha, and himself, were most heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given us the most convincing proof of it in their power, and that they had been prevented Irom giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our enemies. He lamented with the greatest sorrow the death of six chiefs we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best friends. The cutter, he told i!s, was taken away by Pareea's people, very probably in revenge for the blow that had been given h'm, and that it had been broken up the next day. The arms of the marines, which we had also de- manded, he assured us had been carried oft* by the common peopl'^*, and were irrecoverable, the bones of the chief alone having been preserved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the erees. Nothing now rema-ned but to perform the last ofticcs to our great and unfortunate commande';. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin, and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this occasion I leave the world to conceive ; CAPTAIN COOK, 159 y not ng of entire, 1, that meta- idthe pen it ;, with bones joints in the i were ith an k part w and fferent them, d, and barrels o him. Vlaiha- at they er, and ; other d with ome of he told evenge broken lIso de- people, g been ir great orders having jy were What liceive ; those who were present know that it is not in my power to express them. During the forenoon of the 22nd not a canoe was seen paddling in the bay, the taboo, which Eappo had laid on it the day before at our reciuest, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We assured him that we were now entirely satisfied, and that, as the Orono was buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried with him. We afterwards desired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The sliips were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board, exjjressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their satisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not visit us, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but he was refused admiitance. As we had now everything ready for sea, Captain Gierke, imagining that if the news of our proceed- ings should reach the islands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About eight in the evening we dismisseil all the natives, and Eappo and the friendly Kaireekeea took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately weighed and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the shore in great numbers, and as we passed along received our last farewells with every mark of affection and goodwill. Space will not allow us to record llie liomeward voyage, and our readers will probably agree with us that the interest of this third and fatal expedition comes in and goes out with the immortal navigator. In conclusion, we must remark that while the value and extent of Captain Cook's additions to our knowledge of the Polar regions have been equalled by the contributions of other seamen, he stands pre-eminent as the greatest and most renowned circumnavigatc-r that this or any other country has produced. While other explorers discovered unknown lands and islands, only to sail away after sighting them, Captain Cook determined their insularity or other- wise, fixed their position on the chart, and surveyed them as far as time and circumstances would permit. With him the merely vulgar thirst for fame as a discoverer gave place to a determination to make a scientitic and methodical survey of the coasts and seas he traversed, and record a full ethnological description of the races in- habiting the countries and islands he visited. i6o THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK, It may with truth be said that, in the long roll of illustrious naval heroes, whose deeds have illumined the pages of Lhis country's annals, few there are who have better earned a niche in the temple of fame, and a place in the hearts of their c untrymen, than the intrep'd seaman, scientific officer, and accomplished navigator, Captain James Cook. S^i 1 THE END. TRINTED BY J. S. VIRTUE A-ND CO., UMlIEUj CITY ROAD, LONUON. Is naval mntry's 'temple lan the ^igator, Routledge's World Library Advertiser. MORLEY'S UNIVERSAL LIBRARY. In Monthly Volumes^ One Shilling each. Ready on the 25th of each month. • Marvels of clear type and general neatness." — Daily Telegraph, 1. 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