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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithoda. rrata to pelure. n d □ 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ,*v I % W.4. \ \ VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY NORTH PAC AND ROUND THE WORLD; ^^ In which the C«aa of North-weft America has beea carefully c^Tninctf and accurately furveyud UNDERTAKEN BY HIS MAJESTY'S COMMANl), Principally with a View to afcertain the exiftence of any NAriCABt* Communication between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans ; and performed in the vear8 1790, 1191, 1192, 1793, 1794 and 1795, IN THE mSCOVEliY SLOOP OF WAli, AND ARMED TENDER CHATHAii, UNDUR TUE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER. Dedicated, by Pennljfion, to JUS MAJESTY. A NEW EDITION, WITH CORRECTIONS, JLLUSTRATKO WITH NINETEEN VIEWS AND CHARTS. IS SIX VOLUMES. VOL. I. ^ 3Iontion: rUTNTED FOR JOHN STOCKUALf, PICCADILLY. J 80 1. J' il ■i H^iyC): « "S. i !. ' . - < , / i\; ^J4-;i'9!ai^. ». T. Gillet, Printer, Salifbury-fquare, ACCE5 I2ii -3m, "n{ h i m • ' V Fv. *l K ;w.y^yi) TO THE KIJVC Tm ) SIR, c^,.I JIh/ 'i > ':r r i' YOUR MAJESTY having been gracioufly pleafed to permit my late brother, Captain George Van- couver, to prefent to YOUR MA- JESTY the narrative of his labours, during the execution of your commands in the Pacific Ocean, I prcfume to hope that, fince it has pleafed the Divine Providence to withdraw him from YOUR MAJESTY'S Service, and from the fociety of his Friends, before^ he could avail himfclf of that condefcen- fion, YOUR MAJESTY will, with the farne benignity, vouchfafe to accept it A 2 from ACCESSION NUi^lBcii /I DEDICATION. from my hands, in difcharge of the me- lancholy duty which has devolved upon me by that unfortunate event. I cannot but indulge the hope, that the following pages will prove to YOUR MAJESTY, that Captain Vancouver was not undefcrving the honour of the trufl repofed in him ; and that he has fulfilled the obje6l of his commiflion from YOUR MAJESTY with diligence and fidelity. • ^ Oi tir/v: ■■ ; 'i ^ ' Under the aufpices of YOUR MA- JESTY, the late indefatigable Captain Cook had already fhewn that a South- erir Continent did not exifl, and had af- certained the important fa6l of the near approximation of the Northern Sliores of Alia to thofe of America. To thofe '. " .'. great \ [i / DEDICATION. | great difcoveries, the exertions of Cap- TAIN Vancouver will, I truft, be found to have added the complete certainty that, within the limits of his refearches on the Continental Shore of North Wefl America, no internal Sea, or other NAVIGABLE COMMUNICATION wliatCVCr exifts, uniting the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. I have the honour to be, SIR, With the moft profound refpec^, YOUR MAJESTY'S Moft faithful and devotod SubjecS and Servant, JOHN VANCOUVER. »■*#*»,« ' :i, '- '•" W tj-it -- ADVERTISEMENT. ■iii>«'j>W< 1. I rr^IIE Publifher finds it neceffary only to ftatc, for the information of the Purchafcrs of this new Edition, that the copper-plates of the charts contained in the folio volume, which accompanied the firft Edition, were all ftolcn, and may therefore be confidered as irrecoverably loft. The whole of the Views, except the headlands *, arc retained. The general chart, and that of the New Difcoveries, &c. are re-engraved, and will, it is conceived, completely fatisfy the majority of hh Readers. It muft, however, be obferved, that the other charts arc indifpcnfibly ncceflliry for fuch as may hereafter navigate tliofe feas. This Edition has re- ceived throughout the requifitc correaions of the Editor, John Vancouver, Efq. * Thefe are fix in nufnber, and may be had, price Seven Shil- Nu lings. H • ■■ ' >"*-., i ■ jj. .' } ,^p»^-.--'-- • ADVKR'riSKMENT. No work has maintained a higher character in the public eftimation than this Voyage, and the cx- pence of the quarto Edition could alone have pre- vented its being univerfally read. The lofs of the Plates, has, of courfe, greatly en- hanced the value of the few Copies of the original Edition, which were not at that time fold. They may, however, be had until Chriftmas next, with the folio volume of cliarts at Twelve Guineas ; but fliould any then remain they will be advanced to Fifteen Guineas. PICCADILLY, 2()tA OHvicr, 1801. CONTENIS. CONTENTS. »*•)!••« Fllisr VOLUME. Pag. Introduction 3 , Advektisement from the Editor yf^ BOOK THE FIRST. transactions prom the commencement of thk EXPEDITION, UNTIL OUR DEPARTURE PROM OTA- HEITE. CHAP. I. Equipment of the Difcovery and Cliaiham—Depai' t lire from Falmnnlh — Fifit and Trunfadions at 'lener'ijfc — Occurrences and Ohjervathjus durhi'^ the Vufjlige to the Cape of Good Hope--Tranf- aSlmis there i and departure thence s:3 CHAP. n. Depjrturr-. from Falfe Bay-^Dealh of Ne'd Cad I'ji the Ftiux-^Procecd towards the Coafi of .AV^ >. ..r Holland ■' f^ •■.ffaiiiSSg»4_» ^t'i^mx^^ ,- «■ .-*• ■ri^-'-rgm^^ix. J^,. 10 CONTENTS. Page Ihllund — Difco-ver King George the Third's Sound — TranJaBions there — Leave King George the Third's Sound — Departure from the Coajl of Nciv Ilol/cuid 118 CHAP. III. Remarks on the Country and Produ6li07is on Part of the Soulh-iceft Coaji of New Holland — Ex- traordinary Devajfation by Fire — Aflronomicai and Nautical Ohfcrvations 159 CHAP. IV. Pajfage from the South-wefl Coafl of New Hol- land — Pafs Fan Diemans Land — Arrival in Dujky Bay^ New Zealand — Violent Storms — Ijeave Dujhy Bay — A violent Storm — Much fValer found in the Ship — Part Company with the Chatham — Difcover the Snares — Proceed iozvards Otaheite — Arrive and join the Chat" ham there, 1 S2 CHAP. V. Mr, Bronghtons Narrative, from the Time of his Separation to his being joined by the Difcovery at Otaheite ; ivilh fume Account of Chatham Ifland^ and other I/lands dij'covered' on his Paf- fiige. 1'}A CHAP. Tf CvlNTENTS. 11 \ i CHAP. VI. Pajre Fijli Oloo — Arrival of Pomurrey and Matooara Mahow — Arrival of Taow, Pomurrey*s Father — Interview between Taow and his Sons — Suh- mijfion of Taow to Otoo — Entertainments at the Encampment — Plftt ofPoatatou — Death ofMa- hoiv — Exmrfion to Oparre 252 CHAP. vir. Two Natives punijhed for Theft — Ohfcquics of Mahow — Several Articles Stolen — Meafnres for their Recovery — Tozvereeroo, the Sandwich JJlunder, ahfconds — Brought back by Pomurrey — Sail from Matavai Bay — Chara6ler of Po- miarey — fJis IVives — Changes in the Govern- uioit nf Olaheiie — AJlronomical and Nautical Objervations 29:? bo6k the second. •,rt\ VISIT THF, SANDWICH ISLANDS; PROCEED TO SUR- VEY THE COAST OF NEW AL15I0N; PASS THROUGH AN INLAND NAVIGATION; TRANSACTIONS AT XOOTKA; AIIKIVE AT PORT ST. FRANCISCO. . _ CHAP. 1. Paffiigc to the Sandwich IJlands — Arrive off Owhyhec — fljitfrum Tianna and other Chiefs — ^:..ji-v~ 7 Leave -'■"^%iij'»- '^ fc.-. V . li .. * '■■i * .»-.« » » ■ n CONTENTS. Page Leave Towereeroo at Oivhyhee — Proceed to Leeward — Anchor in IVhytete Bay, in JVaohoo ■ — Arrival at Attoivai 343 CHAP. IL TranfaSlions at Altowai — The Prince and Regent viftt the Ships — Fidelity of the Natives — Ohjer- vations on the Change of the fever al Governments of the Sandwich Jflands — Commercial Purfuits of the Americans 373 »».;{•(•-■ SECOND VOLUME. CHAP. III. "w \ Pajfiige to the Coafl of yimerica — Find the Main- majl fprung — See the Land of New Albion — Proceed along the Coafl — Fall in with an Ame- rican Vejfel — Enter the fuppofed Straits of De Fuca — Anchor there CHAP. IV, Proceed up the Slraits — Anchor under New Dun- genvjs — Remarks on the Coafl of New Albion — Arrive in Port Difcovery — Tranfa^ions there — Boat -r*^**--* ■» ♦■« \ age i3 CONTENTS. 13 Page --JBoat Excurfion — Qtiit Port Dlfcovery — jlf- tronomical and Nautical Ohfervations 52 CHAP. V. De/cnptlon of Port Dlfcovery and the adjacent Country — Its hihahltants — Method of depoftting the Dead — Conje&ures relative to the apparent Depopulation of the Country 100 CHAP. VI. Rnler Admiralty Inlet — Anchor off Refloration Point— Viftt an Indian Village — Account of ' feveral Boat Exjurfions — Proceed to another Part of the Inlet — Take Poffeffion of the Coun- try , 1 16 f'l CHAP. VII. Cluit Admiralty Inlet, and proceed to the North- ivard — Anchor in Birch Bay — Profecute the Survey in the Boats — Meet two Spanifk Veffels — Aflronomical and Nautical Olfervalions 171 CHAP. VIII. The l'\:[}ch continue their Route to the Nottlvjard — Anchor in Defolation Sound — The Boats dif- patched on Surveying Parties — Difcover a Paf- fafre to Sea — Quit Defolation Sound — Pafs through Johnflones Strait $ 218 14 tOMllNTS. CHAP. IX. Paiie Piifs through Ihoiightons jirchipelago, lo piirjue the Contlnenlal Shore — The Vejfels get agrouud — Enter F'ltzhngKs Sound — Reafons for quit- ting the Codji, mid proceeding to Nootka 27 y CHAP. X. . Pajfage from FitzhiigKs Sound lo Nootka — ^r- rivalin Friendly Cove — Tranfa6lions there, far - ticularly thofe refpeMing the Cejftofi of Nootka — Remarks on the Commerce of North'WeJi America — jiflronomical Ohfervations 331 . CHAP. XL Depart from Nootka Sound — Proceed to the South- ivard along the Ccajt — The D.cdalus enters Gray's Harbour — The Chatham enters Colwn' bia River — Arrival of the Difcovery at Port St. Francifco 380 ^ \ THIRD €ONT£NTS, 15 THIRD VOLUME. BOOK THE THIRD. TRANSACTIONS AT TWO SPANISH SETTLRMENTS I^f NEW ALBION; EXAMINATION OF COLUMBIA RIVER; OCCURRENCES ON BOARD THE D^iDALUS ; SECOND VISIT TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. CHAP. I. llfited hy a Priefl and a SpaniJIi Sergeant — The Commandant "o'ljits the Ship — Account of the Mijfions of St. Francifco and Clara — Arrival of the Chatham — Departure from St. Francifco — Meet the Dicdalus at Monterrey Pao-c III CHAP. II. Tranfa6lio7is at Monterrey — Defcription of the Mif- fion of St. Carlos — Departure of the Daedalus for Port Jackfon — Situation and Dtfcriptton of Monte my Bay — Account of the Ptefidio — Ge- nefous ConduB of Sen'' (.Quadra — AJirommical and Nautical Ohfervations 51 CHAP. la CONTENTS. CHAP. III. ag<- IJeutemint Broughlons Account of Columbia River 83 CHAP. IV. Mr. IVhidheys Account of Grays Harbour — Tranfad'wns of the Dcedalus at the Marquefas, and at fame neivly-dif covered Jflands — Murder (f Lieulcnant Hcrgcji at IVoahoo — Arrival of the Daedalus at Noolka 131 CFL\P. V. I){parture of Lieutenant Brought on for Ru gland — Vrogrcfs towards the Sandwich Jflands—' Ftnillefs Search for the Jflands of Los Maps — Arrive at Oivhyhce — V fifed by the Chiefs — An^" chor In Karalakooa Jlay — iMud the Cattle — Regulations adopted — Account of two Engllflt Seamen reft ding on the Jfland — Capture of the Schooner Fair American — Chara6hr of fame of ihe leading Chiefs l6:» CHAP. VI. Tranfadlons at Karalakooa Jiay — lift from the lyidow of Terreeoboo — An Jndlan fliam Fight — Propofilsfor a general Peace amongjl the In- dians — Qidt Owhyhee — Aflronomlcal Obferva- tlons 24 1 CONTENTS, 17 If CHAP. VII. Page uirr'rje off Mowee — Particulars relative to the Murder of Lieutenant Hergeji, Mr. Gooch, and Others — Converfation rejpetting a Peace with Owhyhee — Reajbns for fending the Chatham to Nootka — The Peace acceded to by the Chieji— Information acquired by an Excurfian of the Boats — Departure from Moxvee 288 I h\'. ■m n ctiAP. viir. Proceed to JVhyteete Bay'— An Indians Account of the Murder at Woahoo — Three of the Mur- derers brought on Board — Their Trial and Exe- cution — Proceed to Attoival — Settle two female Natives found at Nootka — Quit the Sandivlch IJlands ; 337 W. BOOK THE FOURTH. BECOND VISIT TO THE NORTH; SURVEY OP THE AMERICAN COAST FROM FITZHUGn's SOUND TO CAPE DECISION; AND FROM MONTERKKY TO THE SOUTHERN EXTENT OP OUR INTENDED INVESTI- GATION. . CHAP, t PaJJ'age toivards the Coafi of America — Anchor in TrlnlihulAiiiy — Defcrlption of the Buy, Its In- Jp^ habiiuTiiSf 18 CONTENTS. Page! halnlants^ &V. ^c. — Arrival al Nootka-^Quit NooU'd, (itid proceed to the Norlhzvard — Join the Chdlham in Fitzhugli's Sound. 3()4 »««H«91 VOLUME THE FOURTH. CHAP. II. .Imhor In Rejloralion Cove Account of hvo BoiU Expeditions — Al/lronomical and nautical Obfcrvations — Proceed to the Northward — l^lfited by many of the Natives — Their Charac- tcr — Account of the Boats Excurfion — Seamen foifoned by Mnfcles CHAP. III. The Vtijcls pr.jceed — Pufs through Milhanlis ivjnnd^ a?id along the continental Shore — Arrive in afuall Cove — Ti^o Boat Parties difpatched on the Survey — One returns — Account of their Dijcoveries — The Veffels again proceed — Tedi- ous Navigation — The other Boat Party returns — Their Report 50 . CHAP. c^^iMK^J Ipmiiii^mA I CONTCNTi. ttt .<\\ ^' ■'^K\ A t\n>..Vvl <'»■*'■' CHAP. IV. 19 Mr. Whidbey again difpatched iviih two Boats--^ Anchor near ihe JJle de GiU^^ccounl of Mr. Whtdbeys Excurfion — Quit FtJIierman s Cove — Pajs between Banks's IJland and Pittas Archi- felago into the Ocean — Enter Chatham's Sound —-Meet three Englijh Vejfels — Arrive in Ohjer- •vatory Inlet — Anchor in Salmon Bay — Boats <■ again difpatched on the Survey • . 82 .. V .'^v;. ' .. <;. CHAP. V. An extenjive Boat Excurfion — Party attacked by the Natives^^Afirottomical and Nautical Ob/er- nations 128 t' iff ' CHAP. VI. Quit Ob/ervatory Inlet — Proceed to the North- wefi — Defcription of Port Stewart — Vifited by the Natives — Account of the two Boat Excur- fions 202 CHAP. vir. Leave Port Stewart^ and proceed to the Norlh- wefiward — l^ifited by the Natives — Port Pro- ie6iion — Account of Boat Excurfions — Proceed to the Soulh-ward — Defcription of Port Protect HT'in • B2 tion '1 '.'\i flO CONTENTS. Page tion Departure thence Pajfage along the JVeJlern Side of Queen Charlotte's IJlands to Nootka — Quit Nootka 248 •■-'■»■•■• ■v-.-v " . n., , \i\l \\ ■'. CHAP. VIII. s.<, .)lV* .'A Piijfuge to the Southward — The Chatham fent to Port Bodega — Arrival of the Difcovery at Port Francifco — Chatham arrives there — Account of her Proceedings — Proceed to Monterrey — Join- ed by the Daedalus — Conduct of the Governor — Proceed to the Southward — Anchor at 5'" Bar- bara — F'ijit Bueno Ventura — Proceed along the Coajl to the Southw/urd — Arrive at St. Diego and the adjacent JJlands — AJlronumicul and nautical Obfervaiions 2()3 CHAP. IX. Proceed to the Southward — Dejcription of the Coajl — Some Account of Port Bodega — Brief Account of the Spanijh Settlements in New Al- bion 371 j> ; . • ' /' 1 ■■■ .' •- 1 ■ ., ". - - ,■• , • •■■ •:•■•. V..x\\ ,: ^ . .-■A.-- ^ .-.:. ..'", < 1 • . 1 1 FI^IH I, CONTENTS. 21 Wt. \' .'.•■ Ur '". *c'^M.>. .,'■ \. ■•> ■ »,. ,,i.tl-- <•» M f FIFTH VOLUME. 1' ,,n- . BOOK THE FIFTH. ^ ' M : ■ "- . . ,. ^ . T|1IBD VISIT TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS — CONCLUDE THE SURVEY OP THE COAST OF NORTH-WEST AME- RICA. CHAP. I. Page Lciive the Coajl of New Albion — Arrive off the Raji Point of Owhyhee — Examine If^hyea.ra Bay — yiftledby Tamaahmaah — Proceed to Ka- rakakooa Bay — Tranfa^lions there — Departure of the Difdalus for New South JVales I v..i> f < CHAP. II. Sequel of Tranfmlions at Karahakooa — Ctjfion of the Jflcind of Owhyhee — AJironomical and nau- tical Ohfervatiom 34 ,^;.\V: • CHAP. III. ^^v '• (^iiit Karahakooa — I'iftt Tyahtatomi and Teoaigh Bays — Some Defcription of the Anchorage at ihofe Places — Exami?ie the northern Sides of Mowecj IVoahoOt and Aftowai-^Ohfervations on ill' lili iV 1^ 21 COl^TKMTS. ou the Jtnehnra^c at Aito'wat and Onchoiu- Leave the Sumhvich IJlatuh rage j9 CHAP. IV. Qiiit the Sandivich I/lanih—rPart Company iiHlh the Chatham-^- Indiratiom of Land — See Tfche- r'lkow JJland — Paji Trinity I/lei — Irocetu along the CoaJl'-'Enler ami proceed up Cook's River 140. ):• CHAP. V. Dangerous E'ltuat'ion of the Ship in Confeqncnce of lee — Examination of the upper Part of Cook's River — Its final Termination proving it lo he only an extcnfive Arm of the Sea, it obtains- the Name of Cook's Inlet — Joined l>y the Chatham "•^'Mr. Puget's Narrative during the Separation rf the tiVG Fejfels — Vifitcd hy RaJJtans — Qidt Cook's Inlet — Aflronomical and tiautical Ohjer- vations ,, JI4. i,i\ •in CHAP. VI. Vajfage from Cook's Inlet to Prince JVdliam\unii — Chcitham difpttchcd to continue the Sur- Page vey of the d ijl eajhvavd from Cape Hinch'tn- hrook — AJlrowmical and nautical Ohfervations 255 CHAP. VII. Qmt Prince IP^ilUanCs >^ound — Geographical and • . other Ohfervations refpe^ting the adjacent Coun* try and its Inhabitants — Proceed in the Exanti' 7iation of the exterior Coaft — Pafs Port Mul- gravc — Intilligence received of the Survey hav- ing been completed to that Station by the Chat' hum — yJrrive in CroJ's S%und — Joined by the Chatham there. . , 323 I •i« ! CHAP. viii. Mr, Paget' s Narrative of his Tranfa£Iions and Survey of the Coaft ^ between Prince IViUianis and Crofs Sounds ; during the Chatham* s Sepa- ration from the Difcovery. ..., 371 I CHAP. IX. Tranfa6}iovs in Crofs Sound — Proceed to Sea — Account of a Boat Excurfion — Dejcription of Port Althorp and Crofs Sound — AJlro7iomical and nautical Ob/ervations 410 r SIXTH 1^ , «i.i.. 14 COiJTENTS. .,Vr^V:y>».^ . •> SIXTH VOLUME. a\v. - CHAP. X. Proceed to the South-ward along the exterior Coajl of King George the Third's Archipelago — Ar- ri-ve in Port Conclufion~^Tran/a6iions there— r Two Boat Bxcurfions — Complete tlie Survey of the continental She: cs of North-lVeJi America — AJlronomical and nautical Objervations BOOK THE SIXTH. a> .Vvv'. PASSAGE TO THR SOUTHWAUD ALONG THE WESTERK COAST OF AMERICA; DOUBLE CAPE HORN ; TOUCH AT ^T. HELENA; ARRIVE IN ENGLAND. CHAP. I. l)cpart from Port Conchifion — Arrive at Nootka — Tranfu^luAii there — Viftt Maquinna at Tah- JJieis — AJlronomical Objervations for correBing the Snrvej/ bi^lwei'n Cape Douglas and Capj Decijion ;>Cjj M CHAP. II. J)tpt2r/ from Nootha Scund — Plolent S/orm — Ar- rive at Monterrey — Receive on Board the De- fertcrs CONTENTS. 25 I t, ferters from the Chatham and DadaJus—Excur- i^'^ge fion into the Country — Examine a very remark- able Mountain — Afironomical and nautical Oh* fervations 96 u, <| )' X CHAP. III. ^ I Leave Monterrey Some Accomit of the three Marias IJlands — Proceed to the Southward — AJlronomical a ad nautical Objcrvations 1 29 CHAP. IV. lufit the IJland of Cocos — Some Defcripdon of that IJland — AJlronomical ami nautical Ohjcr' vations there — Proceed to the SoulJnvard — Pajs hetivecn IVenmans and Culpepper s IJlands — See the Gallipagos JJlatids, and ajccrtain their Situation ] 5p CHAP. V. Proceed to the Southzvard—' The DJiovery fp rings her Main-majl — Scurvy makes its Appearance — Pajs the IJlands of Majfufuero and Juju Fer- nandez — Arrive at Valparaijo — VJit St. Jago^ the Capital of Chili 2 I Tj CHAP. vr. rl ft. ] i i i :'\i ' 1 il ' ;■ I I '-"I I /i Four remarkable fupported Poles - 17 Mount Rainier . . - . . 134 Village of the Friendly Indians - - 234 1 Cheflakees Village - - - . - 269 1 The Difcovery on the Rocks i - 300 "■' ;' Friendly Cove . - . - " - 336 4 VOL. IIL \ I I ' j ► . ' .; # * > """*" ■ 28 f ' .1 'Jr LIST OF PLATES. VOL. V. tirater on the Summit of Mount Worroray Port Dick . , . Icy Bay, and Mount St. Elias VOL. VI. Remarkable Mountain near Monterrey - ^ Town of Valparaifo - . . . Village of Almandrei Page 349 - 123 - 236 - 25.5 II : / VOYAGE ''< ^ ^ mtt U^l S lt3^!^-)li11-V ^9 •3 ;3' ■irfi INTRODUCTION. L^:>i5;,!i t!rfr!f 'j 'jttr ;'-« .<-''ri'; TN contemplating the tapid progrefs of im* provement in the fciences* and the general difFulion of knowledge fmce the commencement of the eighteenth century, we afe unavoidably led to oblerve, with admiration, that adive fpi- rit of difcovery by means of which the remoteft regions of the earth have been explored ; a friendly communication opened with their inhabitants; and various commodities) of a moft valuable na- ture, contributing either to relieve their iiecef^ fities, or augment their comforts, introduced among the lefs- enlightened part of our fpecies. A mutual intercourfe has been alio eftablilhed, in many inftances, on the folid bads of a reciprocity of benefits ; and the producflive labour of the ci- vilized world has found new markets for the dif* pofal of its manufactures. Nor has the balance of trade been wholly agaiaft the people of the newly-difcovered countries ; for, whilft fome have been enabled to fupply their vifitors with an abundance of food, and the moft valuable rtf* Vol. I. C frefliments, u 'I 1 ^ 'l i 1 ' 'Mi k '\i : I .rft""" m 34 I.VTHODUCTION. ; -I I :i' ■i' frcflimcnts, in exchange for iron, copper, ufeful implements, and articles of ornament ; the in- duftry of others has been ftimulatcd to procure the fkins of animals, and other articles of a com- mercial nature ; which they have found to be eagerly fought for by the traders who now refort to their fliores from Europe, Afia, and the eaf- tern fide of North America. " ■ ' - ' -.' The great naval powers of Europe, infpired with a dcfirc not only of acquiring, but alfo of communicating, knowledge, had extended their refcarches, in the lOth and l/th centuries, as far into the Pacific Ocean as their limited infor- mation of the geography of the earth, at that time, enabled them to penetrate. Some few at- tempts had alfo been made by this country to- warjis the conclufion of each of thofe centuries ; but it was not until the year 1 764 that Great Britain, benefiting by the experience of former enterprizcs, laid the foundation for that vaft ac- ceffion of geographical knowledge which flic has fmcc obtained, by the perfevering fpirit of her fuccelfive dillinguiihed circumnavigators. " By the introduction of nautical aftronomy into . marine /■ INTRODUCTION. 35 marine education, we arc taught to fail on the hypothenufe, inftead of traverdng two fides of a triangle, which was the ufage in earlier times ; by this means, the circuitous courfe of all voyages from place to place is confiderably ihortened ; and it is now become evident, that fea officers of the moft common-rate abilities, who will take the trouble of making themfelvcs acquainted with the principles of this fcience, will, on all fuitable occaiions, with proper and correal in- ftruments, be enabled to acquire a knowledge of their fituation in the Atlantic, Indian, or Pacific Oceans, with a degree of accuracy fufficient to fteer on a meridional or diagonal line, to any known fpot ; provided it be fufficiently confpi- cuous to be vifible at any diftance from five to ten leagues. -k ",!! ,\. -* = ' ..•■r.tr! ...: ;■■,.'.. j I This great improvement, by which the moft remote parts of the terreftrial globe are brought {o eafily within onr reach, would neverthelefs have been comparatively of little utility, had not thofe happy means been difcovered, for prc- ferving the lives and health of the officers and feamen engaged in fuch diftant and perilous un- «^\ fi H i \\ -ui C2 dcrtakings ; I ■1 ! I' 36 INTRODUCTION'. dcrtakings ; which were fo fucccfslully pradifcd by Captain Cook, the firft great difcovcrcr of this liilutary fyftem, in all his latter voyages round the globe. But in none have the efFeds of his wife regulations, regimen, and difcipline, been more manifeft, than in the courfe of the expedi- tion of which the following pages are defigned to treat. To an unremitting attention, not only to food, cleanlinefs, ventilation, and an early ad- miniflration of antifeptic provifions and medi- cines, but alfo to prevent, as much as poffible, the chance of indifpofition, by prohibiting indi- viduals from carelefsly expoling themfelvcs to the influence of climate, or unhealthy indul- gences in times of relaxation, and by relieving them from fatigue and the inclemency of the weather the moment the nature of their duty would permit them to retire ; is to be afcribed the prcfcrvation of the health and lives of feafar- ing people on long voyages. Inftead of veflels re- turning from parts, by no means very remote, with the lofs of one half, and fometimes two-thirds of their crews, in confequence of fcorbutic and other contagious difordcrs ; inftanccs are now not want- ing 1 1 i ^7» ^t^ i INTRODUCTION. 37 mg of laborious fcrviccs having been performed in the moil diflant^ regions, in which, after an abfence of more than three or four years, c Ins; which time the veiTels had been fubjecftcd to all the viciflitudes of climate, from the fcorching heat of the torrid zone to the freezing blafts of the arftic or antarAic circles, the crews have re- turned in pcrfciH: health, and confiding nearly of every individual they had carried out; whilll thofe who uafortunately had not furvived, either from accident or difeafe, did not exceed in num- ber the mortality that might reafonably have been expe; I It rmmmnt^ttSm ■■ -'—■-'•mmiUim ^ 38 INTRODUCTION. moil lowly children of nature. Advantages fo highly beneficial to the untutored parts of the human race, and fo extremely important to that large proportion of the fubjeds of this empire who are brought up to the fca fervice, deferve to be juftly {ippreciated ; and it becomes of very little importance to the bulk of focicty, whofe enlightened humanity teaches them to entertain a lively regard for tho welfare and intcreft of thofe who engage m fuch adventurous undertakings for the advancement of fcience, or for the exten- fion of commerce, what may be the animadver- fions or farcafms of thofe few unenlightened minds that may peeviflily demand, '* what be- " neficial confcquences, if any, have followed, ** or are likely to follow, to the difcovcrers, or ** to the difcovered, to the c6mmon interefts of *' humanity, or to the increafe of ufeful know- ^* ledge, from all our boafted attempts to ex^ ^* plore the diftant receffes of the globe ?** The learned editor,"* who has fo juftly anticipated this injudicious remark, has, in his very comprehen- iive introdudion to Captain Cook's laft Voyage, f Dr. Douglas, now Bifliop of Salifbury. ' "^ from ■.i SBS. ;r.-iti5» '■ .-■J- ■ IKTltODUCTIOX. |(^ from whence the above quotation is eiMiR<^(i, given to the public, not only a complete and fa- tisfad:ory anfwcrto that queftion, but has treated every other part of the fubjcdl of Difcovcry fo ably, as to render any further obfcrvations on former voyages of this defcription totally unne- ceffary, for the purpofe of bringing the readec acquainted with what had been accomplilhed, previouily to my being honored with his Ma- jefty's commands to follow up the labours of that illuflrious navigator Captain James Cook ; to whofe ileady, yniform, and indefatigable atten- tion to the fevieral objcds on which the fuccefs of his enterprises ultimately depended, the world is indebted hr fuch eminent and important be- nefits, ^i^n '.;;', /((,<;;.■'• .) l^r::. .!• ii.tt -y "":.■%-..•:: Thofe benefits did not long remain unnoticed by the commercial part of the Britifli nation. Remote and diftant voyages being now no longer objecfls of terror, enterprizcs were projected, and carried into execution, for the purpofe of eftab- lilhing new and lucrative branches of commerce between North Weft America and China ; and parts of the coaft of the former, that had not been .; C 1 minutely 11 n '.s, Jl ilT I M illWI fc »~.-..-^-»>.^'w " I"" " >*i ' . .i'" "iii'';C ' JM fc > _v, '-'*3"|" 40 INTRODUCTION. \i J minutely examined by Captain Cook, became now the general rcfort of the perfons thus engaged. Unprovided as thefc adventurers were with proper agronomical and nautical inflrumcnts, and having their views dire<^ed almoil intirely to the objed of their employers, they had neither the means, nor the leifure, that were indifpen- fably requifitc for amafling any certain geogra- phical information. This became evident, from the accounts of their feveral voyages given to the public ; in which, notwithftanding that they pofitively contradicted each other, as well in geographical and nautical fa,fr ■?->/:.('■;( -;:With Avhat reafon, or with what juilice fuch animadverfipns have been caft upon one, who, unhappily for the world, does not furvivc to en- force his own, judicious opinions founded as they inhere on the folid principles of experience, and of ocular demonftration, uninfluenced .by any prejudice, and unbiafled by any pre-conceived theory or hypothefis ; it is not my province to decide : let it fuffice to fay, that the labours of that diftinguilhed charafter will remain a monu- inent of his pre-eminent abilities, and difpaffion- atte inveftigation of the truth, as long as fcience Ihall be refpec^ed in the civilized world ; or as long as fucceeding travellers, who ihall unite in bearing teftimony to the profundity of his judgment, (hall continue to obtain credit with the public. ^,. «j I'Ai'^- Although the ardour of the prefcnt age, to difcover and delineate the true geography of the fCarth, had been rewarded with uncommon and unexpected 1 I J INTRODUCTION. 43 unexpeftcd fuccefs, particularly by the perfevcr- ing exertions of this great man, yet all was not^ completed; and though, fubfequeht to his lafl vifit to the coaft of North- Weft America, no; expedition had been proje(fted by Government, for the purpofe of acquiring a more exa(^ know- ledge of that extenfive and interefting country;, yet a voyage w^as planned by his Majefty for ex*j ploring fome of the fouthern regions ; and in the autumn of the year 178Q, diredions were given for carrying it into effect. M i- :,./. rr. J t: i 1 Captain Henry Roberts, of known and tried abilities, who had ferved under Captain Gook during his two laft voyages, and whofe attention to the fcient'fic part of his profeffion had afforded that great navigator frequent opportunities of naming him with much refped, was called upon to take charge of, and to command, the propof- ed expedition. • - ■ .. ^rt i;i , u ij.m' *-• W 4jAf. INTRODUCTION. company Captain Roberts as his fecond. In this propofal I acquiclcedi and found myfelf very plea-- iantly fituated, in being thus conneded with a > fellow-traveller; foir whofe albilities I bore the greateft refpedt, and in whofc fricndftiip! and good opinion I w^as proud to poflcfs a place. And as we had failed together with Captain Cook on his voyage towards the fouth pole, and as both had afterwards accompanied him withC^iptaih Clerke in the Difcovery during his laft voyage, I had no doubt that we were engaged in an ex- pedition, which would prove no lefs interefting to my friend than agreeable to my wilhes. ' 'f A fhip, proper for the fcrvice under contem- plation, was ordered to be provided. In the yard of Meffrs. Randall and Brent, on the banks of the Thames, a vciTel of 340 tons burthen was nearly finifhed ; and as Ihe would require but few alterations to make her in every refpe<5 fit for the purpofe, (he was purchafed ; and, on her being launched, was named the Difcovery. ,r;> The firft day of the year 1 790 the Difcovery was commiffioned by Captain Roberts ; fome of the other officers were alfo appointed, ^nd the ihii at eqv wil vie ■%*^*i^*J.(-^.u,- INTRODUCTION. 43 US Ihlp was condudtec' to His Majefty's dock-yard at Depttbrd, where Ihe was put into a ftate of equipment ; which was ordered to be executed with all the difpatch that the nature of the fer-i vice required. ;•: ,; . ' . ai o -; j -^irr-'/^J For fome time previous to this period the Spa- niards, roufed by the fuccefsful efforts of the Britiih nation to obtain a more extended know- ledge of the earth, had not only ventured to viiit fome of the newly- difcovered iflands in the tropical regions of the Pacific Ocean, but had alfo, in the year 1775, with a fpirit fome what analogous to that which prompted their firft dif- covery of America, extended their refearches to the northward, along the coaft of North- Weft America. But this undertaking did not feem to have reached beyond the acquirement of a very fuperficial knowledge of the fhores; and though thefc were found to be extremely broken, and divided by the waters of the Pacific, yet it does not appear that any meafures were purfued by them for afcertaining the extent to which thofe waters penetrated into the interior of the American continent. ^ „/ - This u I K i< A$ INTRODUCTION. i-?ThIs apparent indifFcrcnce in exploring new countries, ought not, however, to be attributed to a deficiency in fkill, or to a want of fpirit for en- tcrprizc, in the commander* of that expedition; becaufe there is great reafon to beheve, that the extreme caution which has fo long and fo rigidly governed the Court of Madrid, to prevent, as much as poflible, not only their American, but likewiie their Indian, eftablifhments from being vifited by any Europeans, (unlefs they were fub- jedls of the crown of Spain, and liable to a mi- litary tribunal) had greatly confpircd, with other confiderations of a political nature, to reprefs that defire of adding to the fund of geographical knowledge, which has fo eminently diftinguilhed this country. And hence it is not extraordinary, that the difcovery of a north-weftern navigable comnpunication between the Atlantic and Pa- cific Oceins> fhould not have been confidered as an obje<3: much to be defired by the Spanifli court. Since that expedition, however, the Spar niards feem to have confidered their former na- tional charader as in fome meafiire at Hake ; and * Sen^ Quadrai they tl tl INTROl)UCTIO]!^. 47 to »^-4 they have certainly become more acquainted than they were with the cxtenfive countries immedi- ately adjoining to their immenfe empire in the new world ; yet the mcarures that they adopted iti order to obtain that information, were ex- ecuted in io defedive a manner, that all the im- portant queftionS to geography ftill remained un- decided, and in the fame ftate of uncertainty. Towards the end of April, the Difcovery was^ in moft refpeds, in a condition to proceed down the river, when intelligence was received that the Spaniards had committed depredations on different branches of the Britifh commerce on the coaft of North-Weft America, and that they had feized on the Englifh veiTels and factories in Ndotka found. This intelligence gave rife to difputes between the courts of London and Ma- drid, which wore the threatening appearance of being terminated by no other means- than thofe of reprizal. In confequence of this an armament took place, and the further pacific equipment of the Difcovciiy was fufpended ; her ftores and provifions were returned to the refpedive offices, and her officers and men were engaged in more adive »~>.iii i |i,. , ; ■ ■ •■NT' •••ViSjf I I i I LI fi iJ -Him 48 INTRODUCTION. l^^ ) 1 I 5 t» a£llvc fcrvicc. On this occafion I refumed my profeiHon under my highly-efteemed friend, Sir Alan Gardner, then captain of the Courageux, where I remained until the 17 th of the Novem- ber following ; when I was ordered to repair to town for the purpofe of attending to the com- mands of the Board of Admiralty. ; . v-. The uncommon celerity, and unparalleled dif- patch, which attended the equipment of one of the nobleft fleets that Great Britain ever faw, had probably its due influence upon the court of Ma- drid, for, in the Spanifli convention, which was confequent on that armament, refl:itution was offered to this country for the captures and ag- greffions made by the fubjedls of his Catholic Majefty ; together with an acknowledgment of an equal right with Spain to the exercife and profccution of all commercial undertakings in thofe feas, reputed before to belong only to thr Spanifli crown. The extenflve branches of the fiflieries, and the fur trade to China, being con- ildered as objects of very material importance to this country, it was deemed expedient, that an officer fliould be fent to Nootka to receive back/ ^'tn^^rrrrr: INTRODUCTION. 49 in form, a reftltution of the territories on which the Spaniards had fcized, and alfo to make an accurate farvey of the coaft, from the 30th de- gree of north latitude north- weft ward toward Cook's river ; and further, to obtain every pof- iible information that could be collected rcfpecft- ing the natural and political ftate of that country. The outline of this intended expedition was communicated to me, and I had the honor of being appointed to the command of it. At this jun<5lure it appeared to be of importance, that all poilible exertion ihould be made ia its equip- ment ; and as the Difcovcry, which had beeri fc- ledled on the former occafion, was now rigged^, fome of her ftores provided, and flie herfelf qon- fidered, in moft refpedls, as a vellel well calcu- lated for the voyage under contemplation, (he was accordingly direded t'^ be got ready for that fervice ; and the Chatham armed tender, of 135 tons burthen, built at Dover, having been def- tined to accompany the Difcovery on the former occafion, was ordered to be equipped to attend on the voyage now to be undertaken, and was Vol. 1. D fent 1 1 ^ 1 1 ■ 4 in 50 INTRODUCTION. fcnt to Woolwich to receive fuch neceffary re- pairs and alterations as were deemed requifite. ' The Difcovery was copper-faftened, fheathed •with plank, and coppered over; the Chatham only flieathed with copper. The former mount- ed ten four-pounders, and ten fwivels ; the latter, four three-pounders and fix fwivels. The fol- lowing lift will exhibit the eftablilhment of the officers and men in the two veffels. '■■-*. -; n II I;, ■ J ' ' i, '. ^ ' ,>.fi 7yf'; PL-- ■'. An INTRODUCTION. 51 :d m t- r, 1- ic Jn Account of the Number of Officers and Men on hoard the Dlfcovcry Sloop of Whr, in December, 1 790. OFFICERS. < ' NO. Captain - - j Lieutenants - 3 Mafter - - j Boatrwain - i Carpenter - 1 Gunner - - 1 Surgeon - - j Midfhipmen - ." Mailer's mates - 3 Boatfwain's mates 3 Carpenter's mates 3 Gunner's mates 2 Surgeon's mates 2 ^ Carpenter's crew 4 ' Mafter at arms 1 Corporal - 1 Sail-maker - 1 Sail-maker's mate 1 Armourer - - 1 Cook - - X Cook's- mate - % Clerk - - 1 Quartermafters 6 Able Seamen - 38 Serjeant - - j ^ Corporal - - 1 ( Marines. Privates - - 14 3 NAWES. George Vancouver. Zachariah Mudge, ' Peter Puget, Jofeph Baker. Jofeph Whidbey. I I ? ' Total 100 An 52 INTRODUCTION. NO. 1 ] 1 1 1 1 1 4 2 • - NAMES. Lieut. W. R. Broughton. James Hanfon. James Johnftone. An Jccovnt of the Number of Officers and Men oh beard I he Chatham armed Taidcr, in December, 171)0. OFFICERS. Commander - Lie Liteniint Mafter Boatfvvain Carpenter Gunner Surgeon Midfliipmen - Matter's mates Boatl'wain's mates 2 Carpenter's mates 2 Gunner's mates 2 Surgeon's mate 1 Sail -maker - 1 Armourer - 1 Clerk - - 1 Quarter m afters 4 Able Seamen 10 Serjeant Privates > Marines. Total 45 I had INTRODUCtlON. 53 1 had great reafon to be fatlsfied with thcfe ar- rangements; the fecond and third lieutenants, and the maftcr of the Difcovery, whom I had the honor of being allowed to name for this fervice, had all ferved fome years with me, under the command of Sir Alan Gardner, both at home and in the Weft- Indies ; the other officers were men of known character, poffefling good abili- ties, and excellent difpofitions, which their fub* fequent condu(ft and zeal, exhibited on all occa- fions, fufficiently demonftrated. In the former equipment of the Difcovery, Captain Roberts and myfelf had undertaken to -make all fuch aftronomical and nautical obferva- tions, as the circumftances occurring in the voyage might demand. This tafk now devolved upon me alone ; but with the afliftance of Mr. Whidbey, I entertained little doubt of accom- plifliing the propofed objed, at leaft in an ufeful manner ; for which purpofe we were fupplied by the Navy Board with fuch an aflbrtment of inr llruments as I coniidered to be neceffary. It was with infinite fatisfad:ion that I faw, amongft the officers and young gentlemen of D 3 the I' .■) ' i 64 INTRODUCTION. the quarter-deck, fomc who, with little inftruc-' tion, would foon be enabled to con{lru-^!j^'.-; ilvr^;; ■ mt t v^* I . ■ ^ ■'t r 5fl INTilODUCTION. cxercifed in the fclcdion and preparation of the fcvcral articles. To thcfe were added a large proportion of four-krout, portable foup, wheat inftead of the ufual fupply of oatmeal for break- faft, the eflence of malt and fpnice, malt, hops, dried yeaft, flour, and feed muftard ; which may all be coniidered as articles of food. Thofe of a medicinal nature, with which we were amply ihpplied, were Dr. James's powders; vitriolic elixir ; the rob of lemons and oranges, in fuch quantities and proportions as the furgeon thought requifite; together with an augmentation to the ufual allowance, amounting to a hundred weight, of the beft peruvian bark. To render our vifit* as acceptable as poffiblc to the inhabitants of the iflands or continent in the Pacific Ocean, and to eftablifli on a firm bafis^ a friendly intercourfc with the fcveral tribes with which we might occafionally meet, Lord Gren- villc dire 1.T Ihould hereafter be determined that you Ihould » proceed, in the firft inftance, to Nootka, or elfe- where, in order to receive, from the Spanifh offi- cers, fuch lands or buildings as are to be reftored to the Britifh fubjeds ; orders to that effect will be fent out by the veflel above mentioned. But if no fuch orders ihould be received by you pre- vious to the end of January, 1 7g2, you are not to wait for them at the Sandwich iflands, but to proceed in fuch courfe as you may judge moft expedient for the examination of the coaft above mentioned, comprized between latitude 6o° north and 30° north. -■ • " In which examination the principal objeds which you are to keep in view are, ** ift. The acquiring accurate information with refpeft to the nature and extent of any water- communication which may tend, in any conli- derable degree, to facilitate an intcrcourfe for the purpofcs of commerce, between the north- weft coaft, and the country upon the oppofite fide of the continent, which are inhabited or occupied by his Majcfty's fubje<5ls. " : ' ' " 2dly, The afccrtaining, with as much preci- sion 1 ■ . «>^<4tWv-' -*.•** * ■ * * INTRODUCTION. 61 1'ion as poiTiblc, the number, extent, and fitua- tion of any fettlements which have been made within the limits above mentioned, by any Eu- ropean nation, and the time when fuch fettle- ment was firft made. " With refped: to the firft objed, it would be of great importance if it (hould be found that, by means of any confiderable inlets of the fea, or even of large rivers communicating with the lakes in the interior of the continent, fuch an inter- courfe, as hath been already mentioned, could be eftablifhed ; it will therefore be necellary, for the purpofe of afcertaining this point, that the furvey (liould be fo conducted, as not only to af- certain the general line of the fea coaft, but alfo the direction and extent of all fuch confiderablc inlets, whether made by arms of the fea, or by the mouths of large rivers, as may be likely to lead to, or facilitate, fuch communication as is above dcfcribcd. " This being the principal obje6l of the exa- mination, fo far as relates to that part of tiic fub- je6l, it ncceflarily follows, that a confiderable de- gree \ i ) • A \ H 'i > I; 62 INTRODUCTION. grec of difcrction muft be left, and is therefore left to you, as to the means of executing the fer- vice which his Majcfty has in view ; but, as far as any general inftrudions can here be given on the fubjed, it feems defirable that, in order to avoid any unneceflary lofs of time, you Ihould not, and are therefore hereby required and dir reded not to purfue any inlet or river further than it fliall appear to be navigable by vefTcls of fuch burden as might fafely navigate the Pacific Ocean : but, as the navigation of fuch inlets or rivers, to the extent here ftated, may poflibly re- quire that you fhould proceed up them further than it might be fafe for the floop you command to go, you are, in fuch cafe, to take the com- mand of the armed tender in perfon, at all fuch times, and in fuch fituations as you lliall judge it necelliiry and expedient. ■ •. . . :: ^ . " The particular courfc of the furvey muft depend on the different circumftances which may arife in the execution of a fervice of this nature; it is, however, proper that you (hould, and you are therefore hereby required and dircded to pay a particular i INTRODUCTION. 63 a particular attention to the examination of the fuppofed ftraits of Juan de Fuca, faid to be fitu- ated between 48° and 4(f north latitude, and to lead to an opening through which the floop Wafliington is reported to have paffed in 1789, and to have come out again to the northward of Nootka. Th^ difcovery of a near communication betw' an^ ^uch fca or ft "r and any river running into, or from the lake of the woods, would be particularly ufcful. - ' " If you fliould fail of difcovering any fuch inlet, as is above mentioned, to the fouthward of Cook's river, there is the greateft probability that It will be found that the faid river rifes in fome of the lakes already known to the Canadian traders, and to the fervants of the Hudfon's bav company ; which point it would, in that cafe, be material to afcertain ; and you are, therefore, to endea\ our to afcertain accordingly, with as much precilion as the circumftances exifting at the time may al- low : but the difcovery of any fimilar communi- cation more to the fouthward (fliould any iuch cxift) would be much more advantai^eous tor the •. . puipofes — ^-^ ^mm^ II I n»m«niS^ ^. Ml 64 INTRODUCTION. purpo/es of commerce, and (hould, therefore, be preferably attended to, and you are, therefore, to give it a preferable attention accordingly. " With refped to the fecond object above mentioned, it is probable that more particular inftrudions will be given you by the veflel to be fent to the Sandwich iflands as aforefaid ; but, if not, you are to be particularly careful in the execution of that, and every other part of the fer- vice with which you are cntrufted, to avoid, with the utmoft caution, the giving any ground of jealoufy or complaint to the fubjeds of His Ca- tholic Majcfty ; and, if you fliould fall in with any Spanifh fliips employed on any fervice fimi- lar to that which is hereby committed to you, you are to afford to the officer commanding fuch fliips every poirible degree of affiftance and infor- mation, and to offer to him, that you, and he, fliould make to each other, reciprocally, a free and unreferved communication of all plans and charts of difcoveries made by you and him in your refpedive voyages. If, in the courfe of any part of this fervice, you, r INTnODUCTION. i§ IC f M yo\i, or the officers or the people under your command, fliould meet with the fubjeds or vef- Ifels of any other power or ilate> you and they are to treat them in the moft friendly manner, and to be careful not to do any thing which may give occafion to any interruption of that peace which now happily fubfifts between His Majefty atid all other powers. ** The whole of the lurvey above mentioned (if carried on w ith a view to the objeAs before flated, without too minute and particular an exa- mination of the detail of the different parts of the coaft laid down by it) may, as it is under- llood, probably be completed in the fummers of 1 7y2 and 1 793 ; and, in the intermediate win- ter, it will be proper for you to repair, and you are hereby required and dircdcd to repair ac- cbrdingly, to the Sandwich iflands; and, dur- ing your flay there, you are to endeavour to complete any p?4rt which may be unfiniflicd of vour examination of thofe iflands. ' ' *' After the conclufion of your furvey in the fummer of 1 793, you are, if the ftate and cir- cumftances of the floop and tender under your Vol. I. E command H ^■1 "*^'*m m. .^r**'- ■'■''■''^'^'^^■■'''■ •■~^V7M. ^t* -"-^ *. i\ ■ssimMitm^' 66 INTRODUCTION. command will admit of it, to return to England! by Cape Horn, (for which the feafon will then probably be favorable ;) repairing to Spithead, where you are to remain until you receive fur- ther order ; and fending to our iccretary an ac- count of your arrival and proceedings. ** It fcems doubtful, at prefent, how^ far the time may admit of your making any particular examination of the wellern coaft of South Ame- rica ; but, if it lliould be pra6licable, you are to begin fuch examination from the fouth point of the ifland of Chiloe, which is in about 44° fouth latitude ; and you are, in that cafe, to dired: your attention to afcertaining what is the moft fouth- crn Spanifli fettlement on that coaft, and what harbours there are fouth of that fettlement. " In the execution of every nart of this fcr- vice, it is very material that you iliould ufe, and you are therefore hereby ftriclly charged to ufc every poflible care to avoid difputes with the natives of any of the parts where you may touch > and to be particularly attentive to endeavour, by a judicious diftribution of the prefents, (which have been put on board the floop and tender .'.\r. under r».f*-;<>'»E.'»»<«^^«'»« Wi K »<>■ «' * » ■ INTRODUCTIOif. 67 Under your command, by order of Lord Gren- ville) and by all other means, to conciliate their frlendfliip and confidence. Given under our hands the 8th of March, 1791." - ' • " Chatham. *' Rd. Hopkins. ,. *' Hood. ^ . , " J. T. TOWNSEND.'* ** To Gecrge Vancouver, Ef(f. -Commander of II is Majeji/s ' ' Sloop the D'tfcoveryy at FaU mouth." *' By command of their Lordfhips, Ph, Stephens." ►*«M-®*i ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS. " By the Commiffioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. " Lieutenant Hergeft, commanding the DcT- dalus tranfport, (by whom you will receive this) being directed to put himfelf under your com- mand, and to follow your orders for his further proceedings ; you are hereby required and dired- ^2 ^d, — " ■ ^••%»- (58 INTRODUCTION. K f f cd, to take him, and the faid tranrport, under your command accordingly ; receiving from her the proviiions and (lores intended for the ufe of the iloopyou command, and the Chatham armed tender, or fuch part thereof as the faid fliip and tender lliall be able to llow. " And whereas you will receive herewith a duplicate of a letter from Count Florida Blanca, to the Spanifli officer commanding at Nootka, (together with a tranflation thereof) fignifying His Catholic Majefty's orders to caufe fuch of- ficer as may be appointed on the part of His Britannic Majefty, /o be put in po[JcJ]ion of the huild'wgs, and d'lftn^is, or parcels of lands thcrc'in defcrlhed, which were occupied by His Majefty s fuhje^s In the month of April , 1 789, agreeable to thcfirfi article of the late convention, (a cop} of which has been fcnt to you) and to deliver up any perfbns in the fervice of Brltlfn fubjccls who may have been detained in thofc parts ; in caic, therefore, you fhall receive this at Nootka, you are to deliver to the Spanifli officer, commanding at that port, the above-mentioned letter from Count Florida Blanca, and to receive from him, conformably ■ ff v> . _ - ■>v _-•; •<'*-W..*y. .^^^ INTRODUCTION, 6y conformably thereto, on the part of His Britan- nic Majelly, poirelTion of the buildings and dif- trids, and parcels of land, of which His Majcf- ty's fubjcds were poflciled at the above-mention- ed period. " In cafe, however, this (hall not find you at Nootka, when Lieutenant Hergeft arrives there, but be delivered to you at the Sandwich iflands, or clfewhcre, and the faid lieutenant fliaU not have then carried into execution the ferv'cc above- mentioned, (which in the event of his aot falling in with you he is dire<3:ed to do) you are in tic- diately to proceed to Nootka, and to cany that fervice into execution as above dirrdt d, taking the faid lieutenant and tranfport with you if v£)u ihall judge it ncccflary. But as they arc intended afterwards to proceed to New Soiith Wales, to be employed there, under the orders of commo- dore Phillip, you are not to detain them at Nootka, the Sandwich iflands, or clfcwhcrc, longer than may be abfoiuicly nccclTary, but to dirc(5l Lieutenant Hcri!;cll: to repair v/itli the faid tranfport to rort Jackfon, with fuch live ilock, and other refrcfhmerits, as may be likely to ' E3 be f ., ^^ -^■MlHl'. 70 INTRODUCTION. w n A be of ufe in the fettlements there ; and to touch at New Zealand in his way, from whence he is to ufe his beft endeavours to take with him one or two flax-drefTers, in order that the new fet- tlers at port Jackfon may, if poffible, be pro- perly in the management of that valuable plant. *' Previous, however, to your difpatching him to port Jackfon, you are to confider whether, in cafe of your not being able to take on board the whole of the tranfport's cargo, any future fupply of the articles of which it is compofed, will be neceiTary to enable you to continue your in- tended furvey ; and, if fo, you are to be careful to fend notice thereof to Commodore Phillip, who will have diredions, on the receipt of your application, to re-difpatch the tranfport, or to fend fuch other veffel to you with the remainder of thofe fupplies (as well as any others he may be able to furnifli) to fuch rendezvous as you (hall appoint. ** And whereas Mr. Dundas has tranfmitted to us a fketch of the coaft of North America, extending from Nootka down to the latitude of 47° 3o", inc'jding the inlet or guH' of Juan do Fuel ; INTRODUCTION. 71 Fuca ; and as from the declarations which have lately been made, there appears to be the ftrongeft difpofition on the part of the Spanlfli Court, that every afliftance and information fhould be given to his Britannic Majefty's officers employed on that coaft, with a view to the enabling them to carry their orders into execution ; we fend you the faid ikctch herewith, for your information and ufe, and do hereby require and dire(5t you to do every thing in your power to cultivate a good underftanding with the officers and fubjeds of his Catholic Majefty who may fall in your way, in order that you may reap the good effeds of this difpofition of the Spanilh court. i-'i^'-^^iv- '* You are to take the utmoft care in yout power, on no account whatever, to touch at any port on the continent of America, to the fouth- ward of the latitude of 30° north, nor to the north of that part of South America, where, on your return home, you arc directed to com- mence your intended furvcy ; unlcfs, from any accident, you fiii^U find it abfolutcly ucccir^r}', for your immediate fiifcty* to take fhelter there: and, in cafe of fuch an event, to continue there ^' ill : i E 4 no *!!!." 72 INTRODUCTION. ] |i ! no longer than your neceflities require, in ord^r that any complaint on the part of Spairi on this, point may, if poffible, be prevented. ** If, during your continuance on the Ameri- can coaft, you fhould meet with any of the Chi- nefc who were employed by Mr. Mcares and his aflbciates, or any of his Majefty's iiibjeds, who may have been in captivity, you are to receive them on board the iloop you command, and to accommodate them in the beft manner you may be able, until fuch time as opportunities may be found of fending them to the different places to which they may be defirous of being conveyed ; ▼idlualling them during their continuance on board, in the fame manner as the other perfons on board the faid floop are viduallcd. Given under our hands the 20th of Auguft, 1/91." *' Chatham. " j. t. townshend. " A. Gardner," ** To George Vancouver f EOj. Commander of his Majefly^s .- . Sloop the Dljcovcry. ' By command of their Lordfhips, / ' - Ph. Stephens." fO ion .rr)--on w^.. ; t V. u?v' ■<.:.?' LETTER JJfTRODUCTION. n II h W t I LETTER fROM COUNT FLORIDA BLANCA.. ,, .,,, (Tranjlated from the Spamjli.) *' In conformity to the lirft article of the con- vention of 28th October, 1790, between our court and that of London, (printed copies ot which you will have already received, and of which another copy is here inclofcd, in cafe the firft have not come to hand) you will give direc- tions that his Britannic Majefty's officer, who will deliver this letter, Ihall immediately be put in poiTciTion of the buildings and diftricts, or par- cels of land, which were occupied by the fub- jectsof that fovercign in April, 1789, as well in the port of Nootka, or of Saint Lawrence, as in the other, faid to be called port Cox, and to be fituated about fixteen leagues dillant from the fora>er to the fouthward ; and that fuch parcels or diftricts of land, of w^hich the Englifli fub- jects were difpofleffcd, be rcftorcd to the faid ofHccr, in cafe the Spaniards flioukl not have given them up. • > - " You will ($Co give orders, tiiat if any indi- "' ■ i vidual A !'■ ! '■IM-^. 74 INTRODUCTION. |if,- < r, vidual in the fervice of Britilh Subjects, whether a Chlnefe, or of any other nation, Ihould have been carried away and detained in thofe parts, fuch perlbn fliall be immediately delivered up to the above-mentioned officer. " I alfo communicate all this to the viceroy of New Spain by his Majefty's command, and by the royal command I charge you with the moft puntSual and precifc execution of this order. " May God preferve you many years. (Signed) "The Count Florida. Blanca." *' Aranjuez, \2t/i May, 1191, , ** To the Governor or Commander - . . 4 J of the port at Saint Laivrence^ ■ *• '. »>H*eaEi» " By the Commiflionei^ for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. )i " In addition to former orders, you are hereby required and directed, by all proper conveyances, to fend to our fecrctary, for our information, ac- counts f, INTRODUCTION, 75 ' '■' counts of your proceedings, and copies of the fur- veys and drawings you fhall have made ; and, upon your arrival in England, you are imme . ; : ^ Ever fmce Captain Vancouver's laft return to England, his health had been in a very debilitated ftate, and his conftitution was evidently fo much impaired by the arduous fervices in which, from his earlicft youth, he had been conftantly engag- ed,* that his friends dared to indulge but little :« ,i, ' .> , . . • ; hope * The late Captain Vancouver was appointed to the Rcfo- lution by Captain Cook in the autumn of the year 177 1, and on his return from that voyage round the world, he unclcrtook to aflift in tlic outfit and equipment of the Difcovery, dcllintd to accompany Captain Cook on his lafl voya^r^e to tlie North Pole, which was concluded in Odlobcr, 1780. On tlie 9th of December following he was made a lieutenant hvo the Martin floop ; in this vefiel he continued until he was removed into the Fame, one of Lord Rodney's fleet in the Weil-Indies, where he remained until the middle of the year 1783. In the year 1784 he was appointed to, and failed in the Europa to Jamaica, on which ftation lie continued until her return to England in September 1789. On the lii of January 1790, he was appointed to the Difcovery, but foon altcrwards vvas removed to the Courageux : here he remained until Decem- ber, 1790, wlien he was made mafter and commander, and api>ointcd to the Difcovery. In Auguft, 1794* he was, with- oit )!; U 'i BO ADT^feilTISEMENt. f hope that lie would continue many years amongd them. Notwithftanding that it plcafed the Di- vine Providence to fpare his life until he had been able to revifc and complete the account of* the geographical part of his late Voyage of Dif- covery, a circumftance which muft ever be re- garded as moft iortunate by all the friends of fcience, and efpcclally by thofe profellional per- ibns who may hereafter be likely to follow him, through the intricate labyrinth which he had fo minutely explored ; yet it will ever be a con* fideration of much regret, that he did not furvivc to perfc(^ the narrative of his labours. He had made many curious obfervations on the natural hiftory of the feveral countries he had vifitcd, and on the manners, cuftoms, laws and religion, of the various people with whom he had met, or amongft whom he had occafionally refided ; but had been induced to poftponc thefe mifcellaneous matters, left the regular diary of the voyage fhould be interrupted by the introduction of fuch dcfultory obrer\ ations. Thcfe he had intended to prefent in the form of a fupplcmentary or con- cluding chapter, but was prevented by the unfor- tunate event of his illncfs. out folicitation, promoted to the rank of poft-captain, and was paid off on the conclufion of his laft voyage in November* 1795. After this period he was conftantly employed, until within a few weeks of his deccafe, in May, 1798, in preparing the followinc journal for publication Moft '1 t fif. „»« ^«"-~. ■;.':s.' i-.i. Km * V £1 .'. i i'^ JOHN VANCOUVER. :>■ i. ■i;':q i\-,..\/f ilV • n •:'j') ) ' i ' • U •\ 1 .>'i V-,4T f'j J iP lil 1 . :n t k r ; ? "'-^ftthf^wA j^'-jti ill ■'*«*'i'* ' \c IS in c- irc R. r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A 1.0 I.I If: lis Ui M 1^ ^ 2.0 140 1.8 m m M 4^ '^M J^^ .V Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 e>c NJ V V^ o^ r" ^,y .• ^ ^^c;^^^^ : ■.■■■■ '^'.^^C'l: I y? ;j^it/ *' .r-)- ?. ■.— I ^•'jS.,H^J,.l.'ll-' s I. ^'-' rMi.r..k,...i ' 1 4 J) i I .1 A (^ ■::.^^^<-: ii^>,■■ ^' ^ I'l ■y O /' f f a; , f / X ..O^U"' . / /'//. \ H T slu'U'iimpJiit of tlu- COAST Ol N.W. Am KlUCA with tlu- li;iiKs or HIS MA-IKSTYS SIv ('■ K t'OfVKK Ksuraii.l |.i.|.iii r.l //>■/// //r ('/n/i/ii// Shim \.< iiiiiln/i r unnni/iiif' iii.t/'ii/ifii /n l.icii' I'Mw' llnlnris iii w /iirli llii- r«.v77.vA'.v7'.i/, siiiMih: Im- i„.,.ii .-..I.-. . iiv Tit.\ii:i) .,„./ Jj/^: ■/•/■: jiM I. y /■:/!. t'ifin /.III .v/.V/ .\' ,i/ii//,r/n>::'ll-- h /,■ 1'.i|m- Dmiylas in /'//.;.'..;• .\: -///,//./■«,■■ :>,■-:.,■ /.'. i///////if //** ' ' ^f/ //////' f-* '*/ ' y '. ' ■ y •* fi/iif , ' ft0Ar,f Um lUy'* AVpiiM.^ft.-.f'S,', »ri ^,liti.H,it/^*.->if' t,''>'4.h /.r«i^./(/f /*-.w./<.M *"wrrr. O' tering V Liei i « *.' 1. . . —. - —.,----(» * • ;. I : VOYAGE TO THE * - -< ^ — N[ORTH PACIFIC OCEAN, AND ^^ i ROUND THE WORLD. •>e->«< « BOOK THE FIRST. TRANJACTIONS FROM THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXIEDITION, UNTIL OUR DEPARTURE FROM OTA- HEirE. ; CHAPTER I. ' Equifmrnt of the Discovery and the Chatham — '[departure from Falmouth — Vifit and Tranf- . a^K^ns at Tcnerrffe — Occurrences and Obferva- • tiors during the PaJ/age to the Cape of Good . Hojie — TranfaSiions there, and departure thence. ON the 15tli of December, 17Q0, I had the honor of receiving my commiflion as com- mander of his Majcfty's ilcop the Difcovery, then lying at Deptford, where, the next morning, Thuriday the 1 0th, I joined her, and began en- teringmen.Y ii^- .; -o ' V ' Lieutenant WilHam Robert Broughton having F 2 been > > . ^j <, i / m ( .,<*> X MMM '■■"*• 84 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY \^JAy;, been felcdcd as a proper officer to command the Chatham, he was accordingly appointed ; but the repairs Ihc demanded prevented her equipment keeping pace with that of the Difcovery ; which in moft refpe(Ss being completed by Thurfday the 0th of January, 1791, the fails were bent, and the fliip got in readinefs to proceed dcvn the river. With a favorable wind on the followino; day, Friday the 7th, \vc failed, and anchored in Long Reach about five in the evening. Although thi^i trial of the fliip may appear very iniignifi- cant, yet as flic had never been under fl\il, it was not made without fomc anxiety. The con(truc- tion of her upper worlds, for the fake of adding to the comfort of the accommodations, diiri;ring materially from the general fafhion, produced an unfightly appearance, and gave rife to v^^ious opinions unfavorable to her qualities as ) fca- boat ; for which reafon it was natural to pd^ the minutcll attention to herltcering and othe^pro- pcrties when in motion ; and we obtained lii the conrfc of this fliort trip, the pleafmg prof{i(^ of her proving handy, and in all other refptts a very comfortable veflel. Various ncccffai' oc- cupations detained us in Long Reach until A^ed- nefday the 20th, when, having taken onioard all our ordnance ftores, and fuch things aijwerc wanted from Deptford dock yard, we protieded down the river on our way to Portihiouth.| My dfrdcri :)r* ■■i^W ' 1 I., V f ,1* I7Q1.] BOUND THE WORLD. 85 orders for this purpofe were accompanied by another, to receive on board and convey to Ins native country, Towereroo, an Indian, from one of the Sandwich iflands, who had been brougiit from thence by fome of the north- well American traders, in July, 1780. This man had Hved, whilft in England, in great obfcurity, and did not feem in the leaft to have benefited by his re- fidence in this country. Unfavorable winds prevented our reaching the Downs until Sunday the 30th ; where they ftill continued, and, being attended with very boil- terous weather, detained us until Thurfday the 3d of February ; when, with a ftrong gale from the northward, we proceeded down channel. About noon we paflcd the South Foreland, and had the misfortune to lofc John Brown, who fell overboard and was drowned. He was one of the carpenter's mates, an exceedingly good man, and very much regretted. About neon on Saturday the 5th, we anchored at Spithead, where Rear- Admiral Goodall's R'ds; was flying on board his Majelly's fhip Vanguard, in company with twelve fall of the line and fcveral frigates. Some defc<5ls in the flilp's head were already evident, as the bumklns and a confiderable part of the head were now wafhed away. Thefe rC" pairs, with fuch other duties as were neceiTary, I gave orders to have executed ; and my prefence F 3 being % I I M i t f Jk-a I fl I ;,/ f y r i!n ^ \ S6 A VOYAGE Of DISCOVERY [fKB, being required in London, I repaired thither ; where I remuincd until Sunday the 27th, when I returned to Portfmouth, w ith orders to proceed to Falrpouth. On former voyages of this defcription, it had been cuftomary to pay the oilicers and fliip's company the wages that had become due whilft they had been employed in the equipment of the vcll'els, which in general had occupied fix months or upwards; enabling them by fuch means more cffedually to provide themfclves with thofc com- forts which fuch long-and remote fcrviccs ever demand. But as a fimilar payment to the crevv3 of the Difcovery and Chatham, (whofe comple- ments w ere now complete) for the fliort time they had been in pay, would have been of little afiillance ; the Lords of the Admiralty, at my foiicitation, hud the goodnefs to grant them three months pay in advance ; which was accordingly received free of all dedudions. I have already mentioned that the Navy Board had fupplied me with an alfortment of mathe- matical inftruments ; and the Board of Longi- tude, in compliance with the wilhes of the Ad- miralty, provided in addition two chronometers ; one made by the late eminent Mr. Kendall, (the excellence of which had been manifefted on board the Difcovery during Captain Cook's lalt voyage, and which had lutely becri cleaned ai;d put into order ■f *■ mm mtM "^1 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. %f ordci- ny its very worthy and ingenious maker, a Ihort time before his deccafe ;) the other lately made by Mr. Arnold. Thefe had both been dc- pofited at the obfervatory of the Portfmouth aca- demy, for the purpofe of finding their rcfpedivc errors, and for afcertaining their rate of going. The former was delivered to me, with fuch obfervations as had been made to that effe A VOYAOi; OK ni^'COVRKY [\pn n. iolitltuJc, and our rcclin<:s on the occafioii may be l)cLtcr conceived than delcribed. • H IV InLi: i^fJ I'iiiticuliir route to the Pacific Ocean pointcrl out in my inltrudions, and being left at perfect filKMty to purfuc that which appeared the moft eligible, I did not hclitate t'> prel'er the paf- fagc by way of the Capeof CJood Hope, intend- ing tt) vifit the Madeiras, for the purpofe of pro- curiniz; wine and reiVeniinents. Our courfe wits accordingly i'o diredled agalnft winds very unfa- vorable to our willies. At noon on Sunday the 3d vvc reached the latitude -18" -^18' north, longi- tude by the chronometer 0** r>^/ weft ; where the cloudy weather preventing our making the ne- celTary obfcrvations on the I'un eclipf^xl, produced no fmall degree of concern ; as with the late im- provement ot' applying deep magnifying powers to t!ic tcleicoj^es of lextants, the oblbrvations on iblar etlipfcs arc rendered very eafy to be mudeat fea; and although v*c were not fortunate enough on tlii.s occafion to procure fucij, at the intereft- ing periods of tile eclipfe, us would have put this improvement I'ully to the tell, yet it was evident that thefe o'jfervations to perlbns not much ac- cuftomed to afironomical purlliits would be ren- dered plain and cafy, by the rcuccicd image of the inn being brought down to t!ic horizon ; i\ii that the begiiming and the end of the cclipli; would be afccrtained by the help of tlule deep magnify-^ 7 i J?!)!.] ROV'ND TUF. WOULD, Q] nKi^(;nir)ing tclcfcopcs v\lth !;rt'at prcclfion ; and probably it may not be iiii worthy the attention of the Board of Lon^i;ltude to coatrlvc, and L-.nii'c fuch calculations to be puljliiJicd, as u /idd tend to render thcfe i^bfcrvation iTenerally nfeful in t!ic various })arts of the globe, Without tl)e tedioii* pro- cefs of calculating edipfes. Tlie wind, continu- ing in the fouthern quarter, rendered ovu* progrcfs flow ; the weather, however, being clear, atrorded us employment in taking fonie good lunar obfer- vations; which, reduced to the noon of Tuelday the 12th, gave the mean refult (jf four lets, taken by me, 1 2" 2 l' weft longitude ; iour fets taken by Mr. VVhidbey, 12" 3()'; the chronometer at the iame time fliewing 1 2" (/ ; and as I confi- dercd the latter to be ncareil the truth, the lu- nar obfervations appeared to Ijc 15' to 21^ too lar to the wellward. 'i'hc longitude, by dead reck- oning, i:V'22', and tlie latitude -M 22' north. The error in reckoning amounting almoft to a degree, leemed molt likely to lune been occa- fioned by our not having made fuflicient allow- ance for the variation of the compafs on our lirll failing, as, inftead of allowing from 22' to 25°, v>hich v,as what \ve eilecmed the variation, our obfervations ibr aicertalning this fad, when the fliip was lufHeiently fteady, Ihevied tlie variation to be 28'^ and 2u.r weftwardly. Thefe cppor- t:unitics, howeycy; had not occurred fo frequently as i;! X 1 (if f)2 A VOYAGE OP imscovi:rv [apijil, as I could have wlfhcd, owing to a conftant ir- regular I'wcU that had accompanied us fiiicc lca\-- ing the land, and caufcd {o much motion and pitching, that the whole head railings, bum- kins, &c. were again wallied away. On Saturday the 1 0th, in latitude 42" 34' north, longitude IL'^ 31^ weft, the variation of the com- pafs, by the mean rcfult of fuv fcts of obfcrva- tions taken by three compaiTes differing from 25^* 57' to 27" 35', was obferved to be 20" 2(/ wcft- vvardly. The current was found to fet in a di- redion E. N. E. at the rate of a quarter of a mile per hour. The whole of the day being per- fectly calm, with remarkably fine weather, in- duced me to embrace the opportunity of unbend- ing all our iliils which wanted alteration, and to bend an entire new fuit ; thefe I cauftid to be iljaked overboard for fome hours, that the fea water miaiht dilfolve the fize ufed in makinar the canvafs, and by that means act as a preventi\c againil the mildew in hot rainy weather. This proccfs might probably be found ufcful, in the operation of bleaching. On our departure from England, I did not in- tend ufing any antifeptic provifions, until the re- frcfnmcnts which we might be enabled to procure at the iv'Iadciras fliould be exhaurted; but lisiht balBing winds, together with the crank fituation and bud failini^ of the Chatham, having fo rc- t'-irdc(^ )! wjitiwiii ii III » J w J79I.J ROUND THE WOULD. QH tardcd our progrcfs, that, by ThuiTday the 2 1 ft, we were advanced no further than the latitude of Z^"" 7' north, longitude 14°4i/ weft: four kroutand portable broth had, for ioznc days, been fcrved on board each of the vcffels ; the ftore- rooms had been cleared, cleaned, and wailied with vinegar, and the fliip had been fmoked with gun- powder mixed with vinegar. As I had ever con- fidcred fire the moft likely and efficacious means to keep up a conftant circulation of frelli and pure air throughout a ftiip ; in the fore part of every day good fires were burning between decks, and in the well. Both decks were kept clean, and as dry as pofiible, and notwithftanding the weather w as hot, and the fmoke and heat thence arifmg v\as confidered as inconvenient and dlf- acrreeable, vet I was confident that a due atccn- tion t6 this particular, and not wafning too fre- (jucntly beiovv, were indifpenlable precautions, and would be produdive of the moft lalubrious and happy cftccls in prcferving the health and lives of our people. Thefe preventive mcafures be- coming the ftanding orders of the Difcovery, it, will be unncccfiary hereafter to repeat that they were regularly enforced, as they were obfcrvcd throu'zhout the vovai::;c with th;: ftri^lcft atten- tion. It may not, however, on this fubjedl, be improper to remark that, if itiftead of bifcuit, fca- men were provided with frelb fo ft bread, which can I ! " If u 9-1 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [aprii',,' can cafily be made very good at fea, and a large proportion oi' vvholcfome water, where the na- ture of the fcrvices will admit of fuch a fiipply, they would add greatly to the prefervation of that molt valuable of ail bleffings, health, i The evening of Saturday the 12 3d, being rc- marl\ably fine and ferene, brought us in fight of the ifland of Porto Sancilo, bearing by compafs S. W. i W. 20 leao-ues diftant ; the next after- noon, we palled its meridian, when the chrono- meter ihewing its longitude to be 1 C)° 2-l' 1 5", varying only one minute to the vvellward of the true longitude of that illand, proved it was going very well. As Madeira was our objed:, every ef- fort was exerted to gain Funchal Road, until the evening of Monday the 2,'>th, when the wind becoming exceffivcly variable, and the weather gloomy and unfettled, that Itation feemed ineli- inblc for cxccutin;.!; the ferviee of which the Chat- bam llood in need ; namely, the breaking up her hold, for tile purpofc of receiving a large portion of balhirc. Couiidering therefore the roadftead of S" Cv\:z as better calculated for this bufmcfs,, ve proceeded tov\ards TeneriiTe. The wind which had been generally from the welt, veered round by the north, as we advanced to the louth- ;vard, and fettled in the N. E. trade, accompa- nied \\ ith line pleafant weather, which, on Tuef- day the liGth, in latitude 30'' 3l' north, afforded . - me ih '.» I ! i^ k r d h 1791.] -. HOUND THE WORLD. Cl5' mc an opportunity of obtaining fcvcral fcts ot* lunar dillanccs with the diifcrent fcxtants in the Ihip. Thcle were twelve in number, of the fol- lowing eminent makers in London, (viz.) Ramf- den, Dollond, Troughton, Adams, and Gilbert, though the greater number were made by Mr. llamfdcn. They all agreed exeeedlngly well to- gether, and their mean refult fliewed the long!-' tude to be l0"21'32"; the chronometer made the longitude l5" 31' 15" weft; and as thercr could be no doubt of the latter bcln<2; nca. eft the truth, the refult of the lunar obfcrs ations, by the feveral iextants, appeared to be (/ 43' too far to the eaftward. On the other fide of the moon, my lunar obfervations were 1 r/ to the weft of the true, or nearly the true, longitude, as was pro\xd on our making the jMadclras. This evinces the accuracy with which thcfe obfervations are in general capable of being made with good inftru- ments, and by a careful obferver. ^ . • In the morning of Thurf.i.iy the 2Sth, the peak of Tencriffe was feen bearing by compafs S. W. about fixteen leagues diftant ; and, in the evening, as we approached tlie roudftcad of S'^ Cruz, we were met by the mafter attendant, w ho placed the flfip in what, he faid, he conceived the beft birth in the roadftcad, and the Chatham in our immediate neighbourhood. ♦ 1 , ,; When the lliip was fccured, an officer was fent to w ) I m W C)6 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY fMAY> to inform the governor of our arrival, and to fo- iicit his pcrmiffion to take on board fuch wine, i^nd refreflimcnts as we required ; but having un- dcrftood that he had waved a return of falute to fome of his Majefty's Ihips that had lately vifitcd Tencriffe ; I did not choofe to rifk a rcfufal, however polite, to comply with this compliment. The officer was civilly received, and the con- tractor was, the next morning, directed to fupply the different articles of which we ftood in need. Accoinpanied by Mr. Broughton, Mr. Menzies, and fbme ot'the other officer-^, on Friday the 29th, in the forenoon, I waited on his Excellency Sen' Don Antonio Guitlcrres, the governor general of the Canaries, who then refided in the city of S ' Cruz. His excellency received us with the po- ll tenefs ufual on tl.cfe occafions, and aiTurcd us of his readinc{s to afford us every affiftance ; but apologized that the poverty of the country pre- vented his invitiniir us to his table. Attended by the fame party,* on Sunday, the ift of May, I vifited the citv of La^oona, and after fatisfvino; our curioilty with its external appearance, we re- « turned to S ' Cruz, and dined with Mr. Rhoney, an Irifli gentleman, to whofe hofpitality we were greatly indebted. Had we not fortunately met with him immediately on our landing, we fliould have bctfH much inconvenienced, as there did not appear another perfon on the ifland who was inclinable I JJ^.-^ I ral of of S ' c po-^ •cd us but prc- ndcd ay, I fving c re- < ney, were met iiould did was iiible I 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. ^ inclinable to offer us Ihelter from the fcorching rays of the lun, or to afford us the fmalleft re- frefliment. We had the mortification, this morning, of finding the fmall bower cable cut through nearly in the middle, which feemed to have been oc- cafioned by an anchor lying at the bottom. The lofs of an anchor in a fituation where no other could be procured, was a matter of ferious con- cern ; no pains were fpared to regain it until the afternoon of Thurfday the 5th, when all our ex- ertions proved ineffe6tual ; and being apprehen- five that other loft anchors might be in its vici- nity, we weighed, went further out, and again anchored in 30 fathoms water on a foft dark oozy bottom intermixed with fmall white ihells, having the northcrnmoft church fteeple in a line with the centre of the jetty, bearing by compafs N. 48 W. and the fouthernmoft fort S. 71 W. about three quarters of a mile from the town. This anchorage appeared to be far preferable to our former lituation, being nearly as convenient for the landing place, without the hazard of da- maging the cables by anchors which fmall veflels might have loft nearer in Ihore ; and which is the only danger to be apprehended here, as the bottom is good holding ground, and, to all ap- pearance, perfedlly free from rocks. The furf that had beaten with irreat violence Vol. 1. G on a— ^ - 08 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [MAV, on the Ihores for fomc days paft, and for ihelter- ing againit which the pier of S" Cruz is but ill contrived, had much retarded the Chatham's bu- fmefs of taking on board Ihingle ballaft, and pre- vented the completion of that object until late on Saturday night the /th, when we put to fea, and dircded our courfc to the Tout h ward. The ballall which the Chatham had now taken on board certainly prevented her being fo very crank, but it did not feem to have contributed to her failing, as the Difcovery flill preferved ;i great fuperiority in that refpedl. Not having fuppofed we fliould have been fo long detained at Teneriffe, I took no fteps for making aftronomical obfervations on ihore ; thofe taken on board fhewed the longitude by the chronometer to be 1 6^ 17' 5", only 50" to the weftward of the true longitude, as laid down in the requifite tables : the latitude by our obferva- tions was 23" 28^ 38'', and the variation, by the mean refult of all our cards and compalfes, was l0"38', differing from 15° 58' to 17" 1 7' weft- wardly. " : . • • . • ■ ■ ' ' , For the information of thofe who may be in- duced to vifit Teneritfe at this feafon of the year with the hope of procuring refreflmients, I muft rcmiirk, that we found the wine, water, and beef exceedingly good, and were induced to take forne days fupply of the latter to fea ; but fruit, vei^v.-- ; . tables. er- ill bu- prc- latc fca, aken very )utcd ^ed ;i :en (6 ps for , thofe y the :o the iwn in )ferva- y the s, was weft- I be ni- iC year |l mult id beet' te fornc VCL-- tables. ■J7gi.] ROUND THE WORLD. ' ^QQ tables, poultry, and all kinds of live flock were very indifferent, and mod extravagantly expcnfive. Towards noon of Sunday the 8th, we loO fight of the Canaries. The trade wind blew a pleafant gale, the fea was fmooth, and the weather, being fine, enabled us to make fome excellent lunar obfervations ; thofe I took fliewcd the longitude to be 16" 52' 30"; thofe taken by Mr. Whidbey 16° 52' 30"; and the chronometer fhewed l0"47' 45". The latitude, at this time, was 27" 5' north; and the variation, by three compailcs dllicring from 15" 10' to 18" 51', was IT 33' 4o'' wcfl- wardly. ,/ ' . '- ;w V'jC' '■i. u' •• ']•♦ • Our courfc from the Canaries was dlrcdcd to the wcflward of the caj)c dc Verd Iflands, which wc gained fight of and palTcd on the forenoon of Saturday the 14th. The N. W. extremity of the Ifland of St. Antonio appeared, by our obfer- vations, to be fituatcd in 17" 10^ north latitude, and 25" 3' 22'' weft longitude ; the variation of the coniDafs 12'^ 32' 15" wcftwardlv. The frefli beef that we had brought from Tcncritte being cxhauiled, on WcdnclUay tie 18th, portable broth and four krout were again fcrved to the the fliips' crews ; at this time we had reached the latitude of 9« 35' north, longitude 23° 27' well, when the weather, which had been plea- fant and attended with a frcfli gale from the N.E. very materially altered : the wind llackened G 2 and I I 4 I'-' 100 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVBRt [wAYy and veered round to the north, and the atmof- phcre, though not cloudy, was encunnbered with a bright haze nearly approaching to a fog, but •without the lead dampnefs or humidity. Through this medium the heavenly bodies were liifficicntly vifible whillt terrcftrial objcvSJs were only dif- cernible at fmall dillances. This very fingular appe nance continued a few days until Saturday the 2lik, when, in latitude 6" 2o' north, and lon- gitude 22*^ -40'' well:, the northerly breeze died away, the dcnle atmolpherc dlfappearcd, and they were fuccceded by calm, cloudy, hot weather, the thermometer {landing from 80'' to 83°, at- tended with fome heavy fliowers of rain and gufls of wind in various directions, though ge- nerally from the eaftern quarter between N. E. and fouth. Our progrefs, with this kind of wea- ther, was flow until Tuefday the 24th, when, in latitude 4" 25' north, longitude 2r 35' weft, wc fccmed to have paffed the line of thofe unplea- fant and frequently unhealthy regions. The fteadinefs of the gentle gale, and the ferenity of the weather indicated our ha^/ing reached the S. E. trade winds; thefe conje(!^tures were fbon eftab- liflied by the wind gradually increafirig, fo that, about midnight on Friday the 2/th, we croflcd the equator in 25'* lo' weft longitude. The va- riation to this point had gradually, though not very regularly, decreafcd to about 9" wcftwardly;. and I -lAYy nof- A'lth but cntly air- aulat urday llon- : died d they :athcr, 3^ at- in and igh gc- lN. E. )f wca- hen, in eft, wc nplea- Thc nity of the S. eftab- Ifo that, :rofl'cd 'he va- |u2;h not cwar dlyv and J791.1 SOUND THK WORLD. 101 and the lunar obfcrvations, kitely taken, had cor- refpondcd within a tcvv minutes with the longi- tude (hewn by the chronometer. Croriing the equator fo ilir to the wcftward has been frequently ohjcdcd to, as being liable to entangle Ihips with the eoaft of Brazil. I am, however, of a ditierent opinion, and coneeive many advantages are derived by thus croffing the line ; fuch as, purfuing a track deftitute of thofc calms and heavy rains, which are ever attendant on a more eallwardly route. By every informa- tion I have been enabled to colleifl:, it does not Appear that much is to be gained in poir^t of dif- tance by crofluig the equator in a more eaftw ardly longitude ; fince it feems that veflels which have purfucd their foutherly courfe to crofs the line under the loth, 15th, or 2oth meridian of vve-l longitude, have, by the trade wind blowing there in a more foutherly dircdion, been driven cqr.ally as far weft, to the 2r.th, 2()th, and 27th degree^; !of weft longitude before they have been enabled to gain the variable w inds, w ithout the benefit (f a conftant breeze and fair wciitlier, v\ hieh with the very little interruption between the 21 ft and 2 Jth, was experienced during this palfage. From the etiuator, with a briik trade wind, wc {leered witii a full fail and flowing Iheet ; wdiich bv the ift of June broui:;ht us to the latitude of;'^^:.2' fouth, loniJ^itude 2(//'well; whence G 3 WG > a' 102 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jUNH, wc ceafcd (Irctching further to the vveftward, and rriade a good courfc a few degrees to the caftward of fouth ; fo that on Thurfday the yth we liad reached the latitude of IQ"-!/' fouth, lon- gitude 2/0 2/' weft, approaching to the parallel of the illands Trinadada and Martin Vas. The wind now permitted our fteering well to the eaftward of I'outh ; but left an error fliould have exiftcd in our longitude, or in that of thofe iflands, I directed the Chatham to increafe her diftance from us by holding a foutli courfe, for the pur- pofe of gaining a view of that land; by fun-fct we were in the latitude of 2o" (/ fouth, the pa- rallel of thofe iflands, but faw nothing of them. The longitude of the former is ftated to be 28" 50', that of the latter 28" 34/ weft; allowing their longitude, and that of the fhip, to have been accurately afccrtained, we paffed them at the dif- tance of 2 1 and i 9 leagues. On Sunday the 1 2th we crolled the fouthern tropic in 25" 18' weft longitude ; the variation of the comnafs had now gradually decreafed to 4" 3o' wcftwardly, and having lately taken many very good lunar diftanccs of the fun and ftars on dlltcrent fides of the moon, I affumed their mean rcfult as the true longitude, or nearly fo ; by which, the obfcrvations for the longitude, ac- cording to tb.c chronometer, a{;pcared to be 1 1' too far to tljc eaftward ; whence it lliould appear, or" (UNK, vard, ) tbc c yth , lon- iralkl The to the i have Hands, iftance e pur- fun-fct he pa- * them, be 28" . [lowing ve been he dif- louthern ariation fed to n many ftars on ;ir mean lb; by ude, ac- :obe 11' t fliould appear, 1 a I 1791.3 ROUVD THF, WOnLD. tigl appear, that it was not gainln^]; quite fo much as had been allowed in confcquence of its rate, as afcertained at l^ortfmouth. After croirmg the tropic of Capricorn, the wind became very va- riable, as well in point of (Irength as in direction, fo that on Tuefday the 28th we had only ad- vanced to the latitude of 31„ 50' fouth, lontntude •1" 1 8' welt. The weather was in general very pleafant : and the Chatham, to our great mortification, continued to fiil equally flow in light as in frefli gales, which materially afteded the progrcfs of our voyage ; the objedl of which was of fuch a nature that it would allow of no opportunity of l>eing paifed by, that, with propriety, could be embraced for the advancement of geography and navigation ; and as Captain Cook's chart of the Sandwich iflands prefented little field for any im- provement that could occupy the fevcral winters we wore likely to pafs in tlieir vicinity, I rcfolv- ed in our way to the Pacific Ocean to viat the S.W. part of New Holland, and endeavour to ac- quire Ibmc information of that unknown, though interciling country. Having much b-uiinefs to pcribrm at the Cii^.-e c/i (lood Hope in the car- jM.r.ter's (!cp;'.rti\ient, it l);'carae cxi)crLient, for the carry ip.g into execution the whole of rny plan, that no time fliould be loft ; jKirticularly as our palTage from England had already exceeded the G 1 limits VJ -' IMffll, tiSSS-rT ' I t r :j r 104 A VOYAGi: OK DISCOVERY [jULY> limits of my expedations. Thcfc rcafons induced mc to make the beft of our way in the Difco- vcry to tlie Cape of Good Hope, and fliould the Chatham be able to keep up with us, ilie was dircdiU-d lb to do; if otherways, Mr. Broughton v>as provided with fuliicicnt inftrudions. The wind was Hght and variable, until Friday, July the 111, in latitude 33"f»4' fouth, loni^itude 58' JO" weft, it blew a fine gale from the N.N. E. attended witli plea/ant weather ; the Chatham until this evening remained in fight, but in the mornina; was not within the limits of our hori- zon. As we approached the African fhore the \veather became very unfettlcd, with fuddeii tranfitions from calms to heavy gales, attended with much thunder, lightning, and a heavy fvvell from the weft ward and S. W. One of thefe gales, on Tuefday the 5th, reduced us for a few hours to our courfes. The wind became fouth- wardly with pleafant weather on Thurfday the /th, when a ftrange fail was dcfcricd to the N.E. holding a courfe, as if intending to pafs the Cape, and fomc of us thinking the lea was difcoloured, we tried for foundings, but found no bottom \s ith 140 fathoms of line. After pafifmg the 17^' of fouth latitude, many oceanic birds were our con- ftant companions, confilling of t.'irec kinds of albatrofil's, the que])rantahutfibs, pintadoes, the iboty, the black, and final! blue petrels, uitli fonie ■' \ is, i ULY> iccd Xco- Ithc was hton iday, itudc N. E. .thaiTi ,n the hori- re the uddcii :cndcd f fvvell thcfc a lew outh- thc N.E. Cape, ourcd, m\ With 27'^ of r con- nds ot' cs, the \\iLli foir.c ^v l7gi.] ROUND THE WOULD. 105 feme few other fniall birds of the fame tribe ; amongft v\ liich were hut few of the ftorm petrel, which in theie regions arc generally numerous. Moll of thcfe, by the 7th, had difuppcared, and, in their plan , were feen the blue petrel of the larger fort, though comparatively in fmall num- bers ; at noon the oblerved latitude was 3.1" 13' fouth, longitude 14"caft. The wind blew a ftronii; o;ale from W. S. W. in the afternoon of Friday the 8th, when judging the Cape of Good Hope to bear from us N. 00 E. true, diltant 1 8 leajiues, \vc experienced, for the fpace of about leven miles, a moil extraordinary agitation in the fea, to be compared only to a large cauldron of boiling water ; this was fuppofcd to be theeftc6t of two contending currents, and for that reafon I did not try ioundlngs. I was alio particularly anxious to gain light of the land, which, in the event of the chronometer proving corred:, there was great probability of doing before dark ; but not leeing it we Hood on till ten in the evening, when, by our lunar obfervations, fuppofmg the Cape land to be about eight leagues dlilant, we hauled to the wind, and plied in order to prc- l*er\ c our then fituation until the morniniz; of Sa- turday the (jth. At day light the Cape was in light, bearing eaft by compafs, eight leagues dlf- tant. This inilance will, I tndl:, be not the onlv one I lliall be able to adduce, to prove the utility of i; , 1 i'l i H- loQ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [.IUX.Y, qf the lunar method of finding the longitude, and the very great importance that fuch information mufl be of to every fea officer. . . ; ■■At this feafori of the year, the boiftcrous wx^a- ther and the prevailing winds from the N. W. rendering Table Bay not only exceffively unplea- fant but infecure, our courfe was directed to Falfe Bay. At noon, the obfcrvcd latitude was 34" 2(V fouth, the Cape of Good Hope then bear- ing E. N. E. five or fix miles diftant. This pro- niontorv, and the danccrous rocks that lie in its •/ *.-■ neighbourhood, we paifcd, and flood into Falfe Biiy, where in the evening, the weather falling calm, we anchored in -10 fathoms water; the Cape bearing wcfl by compais, ten miles dlflant; Simon's Bay N. NAV. and the Falfe Cape S. E.; in this fituation the chronometer flicwcd the lon- gitude to be ] 8' 52' -15'', making an error, or va- riation in its rate of going, as afcertalncd at Portf- month, of ] 8' 30 ' equal to l' ]-l" of time fincc the firft day of Marcli ; which will, without doubt, be received and confidered as being very corrccl; ; it a!fo correfponded with my obferva- tions, and what on that fubjecl I had noticed on the 12diof June. • .':■.• Our palfagc tlirough the Atlantic Ocean being thus accomplifiicd, it becomes requifite, in com- pliance with the method propofed in the intro- dudion for correcting the errors of navigation, to have ; .1 -■■ J^ fr.**-.^ : . m — .« ^'jf-.'^-.r^; , and ation wca- L W. iplca- kd to Ic was 1 bear- is pro- c in its ) FaUc I'allinc; -r; the diftant ; e S. E.; he lon- , or va- t Portf- c fmcc ithout |ng very )bfcrva' :iccd on m beinc^ lin com- e intro' lation, to have I791-1 ROUND THE WOULD. IT)/ have fomc retrofpc^t to this paflage, cfpecially fince paffing the Cape de Verd illands. From the ifland of St. Antonio, until wc had croiTcd the latitude of cape St. Auguftinc, wc were materially affedted by currents ; and be- tween the latitude of G^* north and the equator, flrong riplings were confpicuous on the furface of the Tea. Thefe currents, contrary to the general opinion, fcem to pGlfcfs no regularity, as we found ourfclves, day atter day, driven in direc- tions very contrary to our cxpe(^'tations from the impulfe we had experienced on the former day, and by no means attended with that periodical uniformity, pointed out by Mr. Nicholfon in his lately revifed and corrected Indian dire ULY, a la- tion, o o r ' *« ^ [:hol- nidcr lid in ind it ition, ipe of iation ition ; :)rre6t, :timcs ftercnt board, I fame derate lilts of cferv- cc the which 0*^ 30' \m\ ot to be n fuch ocean, t may cnccs. for ac- llifliing 1791.] routs: D THE WORLD. 10() complirtiing this defirablc objcd ; and I yet hope to fee the period arrive, when every fea-faring pcrfon capable of uling a quadrant, will, on due inftru y the :d her le was nee ot occur- cc. I d from ' of the vere in im, wc )n; the Ind'ui- nfports onvi<^ts id fome ic total an ot- rcfidcut our ar- procurc ints now .? m d fuch tents 17gi.] ROUKD THE WORLD. Ill tents on fliore as might be requilitc for carrying into execution the neccirarv rciitmcnt of the vef- fcls ; with all which Mr. Brandt very politely complied; and, on the return of the officer, the garrifon was faluted with eleven guns ; which compliment being equally returned, attended by Mr. Broughton and fome of the officers, I waited on Mr. Brandt, who received us with the great- eft politenefs and hofpitality, the well known charaderiftics of that gentleman. Having, on a former occafion, benefited by his irood offices in the excellency of the fupplics provided for the llelolution and Difcovcry, I concerted mcafurcs with him, on the prefent, for the like purpofc. Mr. Brandt undertook, in conjundion with Mr. De Wit, of Cape Town, to fee all our neceffit'es provided for with the bcft of the feveral commo- dities the country atlbrdcd. The Difcoverv's bowfprit, being found infinitely too weak, was taken out in order to be ftrcntzthened by one of the fiflics u e had on l.)i;ard ; the whole of the head railing, having been vvalhed away, uas to be replaced ; the velfels v.anting caulking fore and aft ; the risiirin^^;, ovcrhaulinji; : calks to be fet up tor receiving provilions and water; the fails repairing, mid lijveral materially altering; the powder airing ; and tlic ikids and booms raifing, for the better enabling of tiie pcojile to work upon deck; \\\z fliip pToNing iuffielently ftitt" % tf 't m i': ,i ' 112 A VOtAGR OP DISCOVERY [AUGUST, ftiff to admit of fuch accommodation. Artificers were hired to affift our own in tlicfc fcveral du- ties ; which being in a {hite of forwardnefs by the l-4th, Mr. Broughton and mylcU' paid our rcfpeds to Mr. Rhcnias, the ading governor at Cape Town, with the further view of infpe(5ting the (lores and provifions, the major part of which •were to come from thence. Four of our fea- men, whofe conftitutions feemed unequal to the fervice in which they had engaged, and whom I had now an opportunity of replacing, were fent on board the Warren Haftings ; and, w ith her, on Monday the 18th, lailed for England. All our ftores and provifions being forwarded from Cape Town by Friday the 5 th of Auguft, we took leave of the governor and our Cape friends, from whom we had experienced the moil attentive civility; and having completed fuch obfcrvations as were wanted, the obfcrvatory with the inftrumcnts were, on Tuefday the 9th, fent on board. \ By Thurfday the 11th, all our tranfiidlons were £nilhcd with the fliorc ; having obtained for each vcllcl a fiipply of provifions, which com- pleted our llock for eighteen months at full al- lowance, and a due proportion of ftores for the like period. I took on board alio fcven ewes and fix rams ; an ailortnicnt of garden feeds, vine cuttings, and other plants that were likely to grow, :er3 du- by our )r at a'lng ,'hich r fea- :o the lom 1 ■e fcnt ,h her, yarded ^uguftj r Cape d the pletcd rvatory he gth, obtained :h com- iull al- ter the en ewes eds, vine likely to grow, 1791.3 HOUND THE WORLD. 113 pjrow, and prove valuable acquifitions to our friends in the South-Sea iflands. As I intended putting to Tea the next day, we were bufily em- ployed in preparing the Ihip for that purpofe, which, on the morning of Friday the 1 2th, we attempted ; but the wind fhifting to the S. S. E. permitted our taking only a more outfide birth for the better convenience of failing when the wind (liould prove more favorable. It is cuftomary at the Cape of Good Hope for fo miany of the officers as can conveniently be fpared to take up their refidence on fliore. In this re- fpedl I had conformed to old pradices, but was cxceilivcly mortified, at my return on board, to find that feveral of our people had, within a few days, become indifpofed v\ ith a dyfcntcry, which at firft fcemed of Uttlc importance, but had now put on a very ferious appearance ; and fome of the patients were extremely ill. The caufe of this unfortunate malady it was hard to afcertain: the crew had not been fubjeel to inebriety ; their provifions had been of the bed quality, and moft wholefome "nature; and every precaution had been taken to prevent their Sleeping on deck, or cxpofmg themfelves to the dew or night air. No negledl oi the falutary meafures generally ob- fervcd, or individual indifcretion of any fort Teem- ed to have produced this lamentable vifitation, whofc contagious influence fuffered no one to Vol. I. H cfcapc \ I ' 1 V I i\ li IM A VOYAGE of DISCOVERY [At'CUat, eicapc iinattackcd ; although myfclf and ofEccrs did not I'ccl its cffcds ib violently as tlicy were experienced by the people. The lame diforder had not only appeared on board the Chatham, and the tranfports bound to port Jackfbn, but on iliore ; and at length it was attributed to a large Dutch Ihm lately arrived from Platavia, from which many men had been fent on fliorc to the hofpltal ^ery ill, and dying with that and other Infediou.s dllbrders. The furcieon of the Difco- very was I'eizcd in a very I'udden and fmgular juanncr, and reduced to an extreme Hate of de- lirium, without any other fymptoms which indi- cated fc\er. To perfons fituated as we were, on the eve of ([uitting the civilized world, and dellitute of all help and refourccs^ but fuch as we carried with 11?, fuch a ci'lamlty was of the molt ferious and diftrcffmg nature; and was not only feverely felt at the moment, but tended to deftroy the good fffeds we had every^ reafon to expc<5t from the very excellent and abundant fupply of refrefli- ments the Cape had afforded. I now became cxccfiively anxious to get to fea, left the Bata- vlan fliip fliould communicate any other diforder, or a worfe fpecies of that with which we were .already attacked. This earneft defire, a S. E. wind and calms prevented our accompllfliing vmtil Wednefday the l/th, when, about noon, a light 31, crs ere 'dcr iim, ton from 3 the otbcr .)iico- of t\c- c eve of c of aU icd ^^'^tU lous anti rcb' ^'^^^ [be good Irom the refi'cfli- becamc the Bata- diforder, we weie a S. li.. npbflung )Ut noon, a Vigbt u 17QI.] ROUND THE WORLD. 115 ii lii!;ht breeze fpringing up from the N. W. wc failed, in com puny with the Chatham, out of Simon's l)ay, and lalutcd the garrifonwith eleven guns, which were equally returned. Few of our tranfadions, whilft at our laft fta- tion, appeared worthy of recording excepting the occurrences at the obfervatory, where I did not think any obfervations were at all nccclTary for ofcertaining the longitude ; as that mud have been accurately determined long ago by perfons of greater information and fuperlor abilities. The latitude ; the rate and error of the chronometer ; and tlic variation and dip of the magnetic needle, were the principal objects that occupied our at- tention. The former would not have attradcd much of my notice, had it not appeared by the full day's obfeivations, that a very material dif- icrcnce exifted between the latitude lliewn by my obfervations, and the latitude of Simon's bay us ftated by Captain King in the 3d vol. of Cook's Voyage to the Northern Hemliphere, where, in page -181, it is faid that ** the latitude of the an- " chorage place in Simon's bay is, by obfervation, ** 3-1 ' 20^ fouth." This, however, is moft pro- bably an error of the prefs, fince, immediately afterwards, we find the Cape point is faid to be in 31' 23^ fouth; which point is at leafl 12 or 13 miles to the fouthward of Simon's bay. Our oblervatory was fituated near the fouth point of H 2 this I A\ 11(5 A Voyage op discovery [august, this bay, and its latitude, deduced from 20 me- ridional altitudes of the fun andftars, was 3 r 1 1' 40" ; this, on allowing the diftancc to the Cape point, will be nearly found to agree with its la- titude ; which was further con6rraed by our ob- fervations on pafllng it the day wc entered Falfc bay. By the firft obfervations, made on fliore, the chronometer (hewed the longitude to be 18" 39' 45", which was 17^45" to the caftward of the truth, and correfponded with what has been ftated before, that it was not gaining at the rate wc had allowed: further obfervations, hovscvcr, demonftratcd that, although it might have been gaining Icfs during the pailligc, it w as now e\ i- dently gaining on its Portfmouth rate, and was found on tin* 8 th of Augull at noon, to be faft of J-nean time at Greenwich, i;' Kj" iV", and gain- ing on mean time at the rate of o" 28"' per day. Mr. Arnold's chronometer was found to have gone but indifferently on board the Chatham ; and, at the obfervatory, it was faft of mean time at Greenwich l'' 18' 48" 0'", and gaining on mean time at the rate of lO' 1 r" 8"" per day. The variation of the magnetic needle, taken at the obfcr^ atory by our different compaffes and cards* in twenty fcts of azimuths, varied from 24" 3' to 27" 4 8'; the mean rcfult being 2:t" 40' weft va- riation. The rsT, mc- •U' 5 la- r ob- Falfc :, the 8" 39' of the s been .he rate jvscvcr, vc bee a ow ev'i- md was ,e tail of nd ga'm- pcr day. to bavc :\atbam ; can time on mean |iy. The en at the nd cards* 24" 3' to weft va- 17Q1.] ROUND THK WORLD. • 1 I7 The vertical inclination of the fouth point of the magnetic needle was obferved to be Marked end North, face Eaft, 48° 30^ Ditto North, face Weft, 48 20 Ditto South, face Eaft, 48 40 Ditto South, face Weft, 48 3o Mean inclination of the fouth point of the dipping needle 48 30 N. B. The longitude throughout the voyage, and until our arrival at St. Helena, on our re- turn to Europe, will be reckoned eaftward. The latitude inferted in the following chapters, and until the 13th of February, 1792, when it will be othcrwiie diftinguiflied, is to be received, and confidered as fouth latitude. The pofitive or relative fituations of all coafts, capes, promontories, iilands, rocks, fands, break- ers, bays, ports, &c. &c. will hereafter be ftated as true, or by the world \ and thofe hearings which will be taken from any local fituation, whether on board the veffels, or in the boats, will be in-* fcrted according to compafs, and be fo exprcffed. The H3 CHAPTER 118 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVLKY [aUCUSTj CHAPTER II. i rl f r 1 ii Departure from Faljc Bay — Death of Nei/ Cl/i hy the Flux — Proceed toivards the Coafi of AWf Holland — Difcover King George the Third's Sound — Traufatiions there — Le- I' tk^ is if is'- 120 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [aUGUST, apprchcnfion of its being blov/n to pieces, in or- der that we might reach a more temperate re- gion. The fca ran exccffively high, and the wind in violent flurries raifed the fpray into a kind of fog, or mift, which at intervals was quite fait, when not mixed with the fliowcrs of rain, which were frequent, and very heavy : in one of thefc we again loft iight of the Chatham, and feeing nothing of her on its clearing away, the forefail was furled, and the fhip brought to, under the ftorm ftay fails. In this fituation, the Difcovery proved much eafier and drier than we had reafon to expe<5t, as (he was now extremely deep with ftores and provifions. At this time, we were vi- fited by many albatrolTes, and an innumerable variety of birds of the petrel tribe. About noon on Sunday the 2 1 ft our confort was again in iight, and on her joining company, we refumed our courfe to the S. E. under the forefail. This very boifterous weather, accompanied with much thunder and lightning, continued with intermif- fions fufficient only to tempt our fpreading fomc additional canvas, (which was fcarcely unfurled before it wa$ again neceflary to take it in) until Monday the 2 2d ; when it fo far moderated as to permit the clofe reefed topfails to be kept fct. In the afternoon, we pafled the Albemarle and Admiral Harrington. The fight of thefe vcfTels was very grateful to our feelings, particularly of the rsT, or- re- the ilnd fait, hich :hefc icing re fail r the overy eafon with ;re vi- >erable : noon figbt, d our This much ermif- fome furled ( until ted as pt fet, Ic and vciTels arly of the 1794-3 ROUND THE world; 121 the latter, which we had underftood was an old debilitated fhip, for w^hole fafcty during the late violent ftormy weather wc had been greatly ap- prehenfive. The wind, in the morning of Tuef- day the 23d, being moderate, the top-gallant, and fludding-fails were fet ; the weather, how- ever, was unfettled, with fhowers of hail and rain ; and a heavy irregular fwell rolled at the fame time from the northward and fouth weft. In the intervals of fine weather, I got fome lunar obfervations which fliewed the longitude at noon to be 31° 55^; the chronometer by the Portf- mouth rate 31° 29'; by the Cape rate 3r42'; the latitude 3g° 8\ Many whales were now playing about the fhip, but a lefs number of oceanic birds attended us than ufual. The wTather being tolerably fair on Wedncf- day the 24th, enabled me to make fome further lunar obfervations. The mean refult of thefe, and thofe taken the preceding day brought for' ward by the chronometer, fliewed the longitude at noon to be 34" 1 3^ By this exprcflion is to be underftood the fpace eaft or weft, which the ihip may have paflcd over in the interval of time be- tween the taking one fet of lunar obfervations and that of another ; the extent of which fpace is afccrtained, not according to the vague mode pf the fhip's run, as appears by the log, but from the diftance flicwn by the chronometcrj whereby the \! iS r 122 A VOYAGE OF DI6COVEI5Y LAUCJUST, the rcfult of many ohfcrvations made in different iituations are reduced to anyone particular point. The chronometer at this time, by the Portf- mouth rate, flievvcd 33" 50^ by the Cape rate 34" 5', the latitude 30" 28', and the longitude by account 30° 1 7^. The weather continued very changeable ; but the wind being gentle in the northern quarter afforded an opportunity offend- ing on board the Chatham, whence we under- llood that, in confequence of a violent fea hav- ing ftove in the midlhip flern window on the morning of the 20th, it had been ncceffary to bring to until that damage was repaired. The wind frefnened, attended with frequent fqualls, on Friday the 20th ; wlicn, having reached latitude 30" -15^ longitude 37"53^ we were able for the firft time fmce our departure from the Cape to obferve the variation ; which, by the mean refult of two compaffcs, differing from 32" 53' to 35" 5', was found to be 32" :>{/ wcll- wardly. In the fpace we were now approaching, namely, between the meridians of 38" 33^ and 43° 1 7' eaft longitude, and the parallels of 34" 24", and 38" 20' fouth latitude, feven different flioals are faid to exiff. To acquire fomc information rcfpcding a circumftance io interefting to navi- gation, I had held this Southwardly courfe ; but the very ilormy weather we had lately contended with, and the appearance uf its again returning, rendered ling* and " 'jV, hoals latiou navi- but ;ndcd idcix<.\ 1794.] ROUND THE WORLD. 123 rendered a fcarch for thefc Ihoals not altogether prudent. To attempt the examination of the whole fpacc I confidered as not more necelliiry than dlfcreet ; but iince in the event of their ex- igence, it v^as highly probably they would be found connecled, I was induced to fhape a courfc ib as to fall in with the fouth-cailernmoft, fald to lie in latitude 38° 20', longitude 4,3" 43', which had been reported to have been feen by feveral Dutch vcirels. On Sunday the 28th, in lati- tude 38" 50', longitude .13" 3o', the wind at W. S. W. incrcaling with great violence obliged me to defid from this enquiry, and for our own iiifetv. in the event of thefe flioals havins; exif- tc.ic to haul to the S. E. The gale foon be- can .; .l:orm, attended with heavy fqualls, hail, rain, and a moll tremendous fea from the w ell- ward and S. W. w iiich made it neccllliry to Itrikc the top-gallant malls, and reduced us to the fore- fail ; vvhicl], w ith great apprchenlion of loting it, we were ol>liged to carry in order to pafs clear of the fpacc affiirued to thelc hidden dani2;ers. It is, howe\er, worthy of remark, that, nbtwithfland- inir our courle was dlreded fo wide of the allot- ted fpot, we certainly palfed it at no great dif- tance in the night, Ms by our obfervations the next day, Alonday the L'yth, inllead of making tourtccn miles fouthing, \Nhich the reckoning ga\e, \Nc found ourfclvcs twelve miles to the north \l 124 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEP.Y [|Ai:nuST, north of the latitude vvc were in the preceding day, the longitude •IS'^ 4'. Whether this diffe- rence is to be afcribed to any current produced by the interruption thefc fhoals may give to the oceanic waters, when prcffcd eaflwardly by the prevailing weftwardly winds, or to the bad fteer- age of the (hip, cannot be pofitively determined ; but as the Chatham ftecred prccifely the fame courfe, the inference fecms rather favorable to our having been influenced by a current occa- lioned probably by the cxiftence of fuch Ihoals. On the violence of the ftorm abating, we made fail and rcfumed our eaftwardly courfe, intending to pafs in fjght of the iflands of St. Paul and Am« fterdam. During the gale we were vifited by a great number of the various kinds of oceanic birds ; yet thefc by no means fcemed to indicate the vicinity of land or Ihoals, fmce they are con- Itantly met with throughout the fouthern ocean. The weather that fucceeded this ilorm beincj delightfully plcafant, attended with a fmooth fea, and a gentle gale between the north and N. E. made me regret that we had not experi- enced this favorable change fomewhat earlier, as it w^oulct probably have enabled us to have ac- quired fome fatisfadory information as to the ex- iftcnce of the Ihoals in queftion ; but having now no leifare for this inquiry, 1 was obliged to reft contented with having C>;crtcd Qur fruitlefs en- deavours i 1794.] ROUND THfi WORLD, 123 deavours In the attempt, and embraced this va- luable opportunity of getting ourfelves and iliip clean, dry, and comfortable ; which fincc our leaving the land had been very ill efFed:ed. The flux {lill continued amongft us, and fomc of our patients were yet very much indii'pofed ; we however were in hopes that the prelent fair weather would foon rcftore to us the bleffings of health. Some good obfervations were procured in the courfc of this day, Tuefday the 30th, and of the preceding day with our different compaf- fes : thofe taken on the 3 ift differed from 30^* 15^ to 35" 45'; and thofe on Thurfday the firfl of September from 30" 58' to 35" ;'; the mean rc- fult of feven fcts of a/.lmuths was 32" 4/' wxll- wardly variation; the latitude at noon 38'' 19', and the longitude 51" 21'. We were not long indulged with a continuance of the fine weather : the wind gradually veered to the N. W. and weftward, and incrcafed to a frcfli gale ; whicli, however, did not reduce us below the top-falls ; although the weather bore a very threatening ap- pearance ; the iTiy was obfcurcd with dark gloomy clouds, from which fome rain fell ; yet the fea WMS fmooth, and the weather altosi;ether was in- finitely more pleafant than we had lately expc- jienccd. At noon on Sunday the 4th, in latitude 38" G', longitude Ol" 30', the firft iVal we had feen fmcc our \1 ■ •i5*:*'"''«*» »■■ h ^Mj :• yiQ A VOYAGE OP DISCO VEK? [sEl'T. our departure from the Cape ainufed itlclf in playing about the fliip for fome time ; but our companions, the oceanic birds, had not lately been very numerous ; thefe vifitors were moflly pintadoes, and other fmall birds of the petrel tribe. Four lets of lunar obfervations were obtained on Mondav the .0th, which fliewcd the lonei- tude to be O-l" ] i' -lo"; the chronometer by the Portfmouth rate 03" iG', and by the Cape rate 0-4" lo', the latitude 37" 52'. The variation on Wcdnefday the 7th, in latitude 38" 15' and lon- gitude Oq" 33', was obferved to be 25" 52' weft- wardly. The ilime gloomy weather continued with a frefli gale at N. N. W. In the night we had the misfortune to lofe Nell Coll, one of the marines, who fell a facrificc to the baneful ef- fects of the flux cauglit at the Cape, which at- tacked him with much greater violence than any other peribn on board, lie was an exceedingly good man ; his lofs was fenfibly fcit, and much regretted. In addition to tins calamity, difafters of the liime nature leemed not llkclv to termi- nate : another of our people, who had fuffered vcr\^ fcvcrely by this dreadlul contagion, but who was fo much recovered as to be nearly equal to Ills duty, was fo affci'ied by this poor Icllow's iliirolution, that he rclapfcd with very unfavor- able fymptoms. Our convalefcents were Hill numerous ; '94.] HOUND THE WORLD. \2f [I to )\V s •or- )US numerous ; and the work of death having com- menced, \\c knew not where it might end, or where we could recruit the ftrength which we might thus lofe ; our whole complement being fcarccly equal, w hen in the higheft health, to the icrvice we had to perform. One reflej5lion was, however, highly fatisfadory; that, in point of comfort, and profcflior-'l aliiltance, no one thing within our pov to ">ply» had been ' '\^tted for the prcfcnt relief of the diftrefs, or for the prevention of any melancholy confequcnccs in future ; and we trullcd, with the Divine blcffing, and a fteady adherence to the conduct, which we had obfcrved, finally to fubduc and extirpate this dreadful maladv. In the evening of Thurfday the 8th I took fonic lunar dlftanccs with the Itar Antares, which, with thole taken on the 5th, lliewed the longi- tude by their mean rcfult, to be 73° 44''; the chro- nometer by the Portfmouth rate 73" l^, and by the Cape rate 73" 27; the latitude 38'' 45^ and the variation 23'» 30' weftwardly. The next evening, agreeably to our reckoning, we were paffing between the Iflands of St. Paul and Amfterdam, diftant from the latter about ii\e or lix leagues. The weather was thick and ramy, yet I continued to hope that a favorable interval would enable us to fee one or both, of thefe illands, havinir llecred this calhvardlv courfc with V\l ' 1 '" • C Ltir A ^'tS^ ' ] > f ;l 128 A VOVAGE op disco VEllY fsEPf. •with a wifli to corrcc^l an error that appears in Captain Cook*s charts of the Ibuthern hemi- fphere. In thefc the ifland of St. Paul is laid down in the latitude of 37° 5o', correfpondlng with the fituation affigned to it in the requifite tables^ and to the north of this ifland, in about the lati- tude of 30** 40' is placed another called the ifland of Amfterdam : now the ifland which Mr. Cox in the Mercury flopped at, and called Amfter- dam, is in flght of and fituated 1 7 leagues to the foiith of the ifland of St. Paul. Captain Bligh, in the Bounty, alfo faw the fame ifland, and allots to it nearly the fame fltuation as docs Mr. Cox. Foi thefc reafons, if there be an ifland to the north of St. Paul, in latitude 30 " 40', there muft be three inftead of two of thcfe xflands, ^vhich I believe has never been undcrftood to be the fadl. The weather, however, precluded my forming a juft opinion as to this point, which I fully intended to afcertain, could we have feen. cither of the iflands ; but the rain and haze con- tinuing to obfcure every objcd: at the diftance of two leagues, we perceived no indication of the vicinity of land, notwithftanding the immenfc number of whales and feals which are fald to fre- quent thefe iflands. Of the latter we did not lee any, and of the former but one ; which was the only whale we had obferved flnce thai > en- tipncd on the 23d of laft month, From hence towards was r ?n- I hence iy,' ards J/Ql.] ROUND THE WORLD. 129 towards the coaft of New Holland, our courfe was directed between the tracks of Dam pier and M. Marion, over a fpace, I believe, hitherto un- frequented. In this route, afTifted by a fine gale between north and W. N. W. we made great progrefs, fo that our obferved latitude on Sunday the 18th was 36" 49', longitude 103° 48': for Ibme days paft we had experienced a very heavy Iwcll from the S. W. though the wind prevailed from the northward. The lituation of that part of New Holland for which we were now (leering, being ill defined, and a probability exifting that banks might ex- tend a confiderablc diftance into the ocean, we tried, but gained no foundings with 130 fathoms of line. On Monday the lyth, in latitude SC ACt'y longitude 105" 4/', the variation was obferv- ed to be M" 10' wcftwardly. The wind at N. N. E. attended with heavy fqualls and rain, in- crcafed with fuch violence, as to oblige us to ftrike the top-gallant mafts, and to furl the top- liiils. The pintado birds that, for fome days paft, had nearly difiippcared, again vifited the fliip, accompanied by a great variety of the petrel tribe, with fbme albatrofles ; and it now fcemed evident, that the appearance of thefe inhabitants of the ocean, was increafed in point of numbers and in variety, in proportion to the violence cf the wind ; as in moderate weather few only were Vol. I. I vifible. u\ 7 il , A M 130 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [sEPT. vifiblc. We continued to try for foundings at certain intervals, but did not rrach bottom at the depth of 180 fathonis. The wind at W. S. W. blew a ftrong gale, and the night of Tuefdny the '20th being dark and fqually, we hauled to the wind, and plied ; left the land, which is rc- prefented as very low, or ilioals, might be nearer than wc cxpeftcd; at day-break we again re- fumed our eaftwardly courfe, obfcrving every night the like precautions. In the morning of Friday the 23d, conceiving that the land could not be at any great diftance, and that the coaft might lie to the north of the courfe we were ftecring, the Chatham's fignal was made to look out on the larboard beam. The wind from the weftward blew a ftrong gale, ac- companied with a very heavy fea ; but the iky being clear, permitted me to obtain feme good lunar obfervations, which, with thofe taken on the 21 ft, fhewed the longitude at noon to be 114" M'; the chronometer, by the Portfmoutli rate 113" 32', by the Cape rate 1 1 3" 55', the la- titude 35'* 7^ Soon after mid-day, the wind at W. S. W. increafed to a very heavy gale ; and not chooilng, under fuch circumftanccs, to make too free with a coaft entirely unexplored ; we hauled the wind to the fouthward, under the forefail and ftorm ftayfails. Towards fun-fet, land was faid to be fcen from the maft-head to the t ,"*S «* *■■« . , ■*•- J, ^ J 791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 131 the E. N. E. and, although this was not abfo- lutely certain, yet it was extremely probable, as we had paiTed feveral leagues over the fpace af- figned to Lyon's Land in moil of the maps. A prefs of fail was now carried in order to keep to the windward, having no bottom at the depth of 1 20 fathoms ; in confequence of which, and a very heavy fea, the larboard fide of the head, with the bumkin, &c. was entirely torn away. On the gale's moderating the next morning, Sa- turday the 24th, we flood to the north, in queft of the land ; but fomc of the officers conceiving they faw land to the S. E. we hauled our wind again in that direction until noon, in latitude 35o 28', longitude 1 15** lo', when, being difappoint- cd, we again flood to the north, under double reefed topfails, until eight in the evening : we then tacked to fpend the night, which bore a very threatening appearance, over a fpace we were already acquainted with, and found bottom at 70 fathoms depth, compofed of white fand, and broken fliells ; the latitude at this time was 3 4° 5 1' , the longitude li 5° 1 1\ The very gloomy appearance of the night rendered our carrying a prefs of fail indifpenfably necefTary to prefcrve an offing, as the foundings flrongly indicated th^ land not to be diftant. During the night we did not reach the bottom with 100 fathoms of line; and the morning of Sunday the 25th, evinced I 2 our *f -S jl i' ; I' k: i! n ' 1:J'2 a VOVAr.K OK DISCOVERY [sKl'T. our conjectures rcr|)C(^nig the weather not to be ill lounded ; as, about lour o'clock, the lling;s of the main yard were carried away ; to replace which, we were compelled to furl all the fails on the main-maft ; but, before this could be ac- complilhed, the increafed violence of the llorm obliged us to take in all our canvas but the ibre- (Jiil, to flrike the top gallant mafts, and to get in the jib-boom and fprit-fail yard. In this fitua- tlon we continued until towards fun-fet, when having no bottom with 1 lo fathoms of line, we ftood to the N. \V. under clofe-reefed topfail?, in the full ailurancc of meeting the land in that dire<^lion. In the courfc of the night, the gale gradually abated, and in the forenoon of the next day, Monday the 20th, the wind bcconjing per- fcifll}' calm, an opportunity was altorded us of repairing the many damages which our rigging had fullained in the late boillcrous weather. At noon theobfer\cd latitude was S.l" 23', the lon- gitude 115*^ r>'2' ; in this fituation, ibundings could not be gained at the depth of 220 fathoms. Ill the afternoon a light breeze fprang up, from the northward, with which we Iteered to the north -eaft ward, and foon difcovcrcd land from the mall-head, bearing by compafi from N. E. to N. 27 E. It feemcd of a moderate height, rc- fembling in appearance the land in the BritiOi (Channel, and was fuppofed to be about ten or • ; twelve ,': S ''■ ja»» . '»».■'*»-■ I to be ij^s of place ils on c ac- llorni Ibrc- gct 111 fitua- w'hcn K', vvc )prall?, n that ic gale le next vr pcr- 1 us of gging r. At lon- indiiiizs boms, from to tbc d from . E.to it, rc- Britifli ten or twelve le 17(jl.] HOUXD TIIR WORLD. 13.3 twelve leagues diflant — No ibunilings witli, ll'o fathoms of line. The wind veering to the N. \V. enabled us to fteer for the land, and having nearcd it about three leagues, it was lecn from the deck bearing from N. 7 E. to N. 73 E. by compafs; at which time, bottom was found at the depth of 6.'» fathoms, compofed of coarfe fand, and broken coral. The depth of water had, at eight in the evening, gradually decrcafed to 50 fathoms ; when, having advanced about four miles nearer, wc tacked and plied in order to pre- ferve our fituation with the land until morning. By the rcfult of our foundings during the night, 70 fathoms would fcem to be the edge of a bank about nine leagues from the Ihore, con- filling of fine fand, and broken fliells, correfpond inii; with the foundini2;s we had found on the 2 1th; for had that depth of water been nearer in lliore, we could hardly have avoided feeing tlie land before dark on that evening. At the dawning of day on the 27th, wc made all fail for the land, having a gentle gale from the N. W. with a fmooth lea and plealant wea- ther. The depth of water, as we i.i -cccded, gradually decreafed to 24 fathoms, with a bottom of coral, coarfe fand, and fhells ; about nine we w ere well in with the land, ai>d bore away along the coaft, keeping within a league or two of the Ihorc ; which by the compafs llrctched from N. •^ ' I 3 -liW. w *• I \'-i ^ J 34 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY fsEPT. 44 Ay. to N. 81 E. and appeared nearly ftraight and compad:, confifting of fteep rocky cliffs to the water's edge, interfperfed with, here and there, fbme fmall open fandy bays, and a few iflets and rocks, which extended near a mile from the main. The wefternmoft land now in fight (being the northernmoft feen the preceding night) is remarkable for its high cliffs, falling perpendi- cularly into the fea ; and if it be detached, which is by no means certain, is about a league in cir- cuit. It forms a confpicuous promontory, to which I gave the name of Cape Chatham; in honor of that noble earl, who orefided at the Board of Admiralty on our departure from Eng- land. The land to the weftward takes a direc- tion from cape Chatham N. 59 W. -md the land to the eaft ward S. 81 E. This Cape, by our ob- fervations is fituatcd in latitude 35° 3', and in 1 1 6« 35' 3o" of longitude. The flux ftill continued to affed the health of Ibme in both vcflels ; and although the patients were daily ailifted with frefli provifions, and might be confidered in a ftate of recovery, yet they remained in a very debilitated and reduced condition. In the hope that a little recreation, from change of fcene and what the foil of this countiy might afford, would prove falutary to their enfeebled conftltutions, I determined to put into the firft port we ihould be (o fortunate as to difcover; '*■'*»*??■ 17()1.] ROUND THE WORLD. 135 difcover ; and, that an eligible iituation might not efcapc our vigilance, we ranged the coaft within three or four miles of its fliores, which arc of moderate elevation, eiid may in general be deemed lleep and bold. The verdure on all the projeding points is removed to a confidcrablc height on the rocks, whofe naked bafes fuffi- cl cntly prove how exceffivcly they arc beaten by a turbulent ocean. The country, immediately along the fea fide, confifts of a range of dreary hills, producing little herbage, of a browniih green hue, from a foil that feems principally compofed of white fand, through which protrude large maiTes of white rock of various fizes and forms : thefe fuigular protuberances on the fum- mits of many of the hills, ftroiigly refembled the remains of lofty edifices in ruin. The interior country afforded a more agreeable appearance, being pleafandy interfpcrfed with hills and dales, and covered with lofty foreil trees of confiderable magnitude, which our glaifes plainly didingullh- cd ; though we could no where perceive any fmoke or other indication of the country being inhabited. Towards noon, the Chatham made the iignal for having dlfcovercd a port to the northward; into which they were directed to lead ; but finding it only a (hallow bay, we foon bore away along the coaft. Our obferved lati- tude was 35" 8', longitude 1 1 7° 0' 30 ". In this 1 4 fituation, U i ^\ ''^ \ I: 136 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [sEPT. fituation, the coaft, by compafs, extended from N. 08 W. to S. 83 E. the nearell fliore bearing N. 6 W. about a league diftant ; in the morning the variation by our Purveying compafs w^as ob- ferved to be 0° 3o' wcftwardly. The coaft we palled along in the afternoon differed little from that noticed in the morning, but the inland country was not fulficiently elevated to be feen beyond the hills near the fea fide. At fix in the evening, i fmall detached iflct bore, by compafs, S. 8/ E. the eafternmoft part of the main in fight N. 80 E. a projecting point whence extends wellward a long range of white cliffs N. 76 E. the neareft Ihore N. 2-i E. diftant five miles ; and the wefternmoft land in fight, the fame which formed the eaftern extreme at noon, N. 45 W. The wind was very gentle with alternate calms, and the weather, during the night, was mild and pleafant. In the morning of Wcdnefday the .28th, we found our progrefs had been very flow along the coaft, although our diltance from the iliore had increafed, with foundings from 40 to 50 fathoms. We had again an opportunity of obfcrving the fun cclipfcJ, but were not fo fortu- nate as to notice its cbmmcncemcnt, or greatcft obfcuration ; the end was however obferved by Mr. Whidbey to be at ig'' 43^ 53", and by my- felf 19*^43' 4O" apparent time; this was afcer- tained by our fextant tclefcopc, as recommended on by '7- er- led on i 1791-3 BOUND THE WORLD. 13/ on a former occafion. I much regretted lliat \vc had not gained a port on this coalt, where, on fliore, we might have compared fuch obferva- tions with the refults from better inltrunients, which would have tended to ertabllfh the utility of the procefs. The latitude at this jundurc was 35" 25'. It was now proved, that the white cliffs feen the preceding night, formed :hc fouth- crnmoft point of this part of the coafl, w hich I dilVmguiflied by the name of Cape Howe, in honor of that noble earl. It is fituated in lati- tude 35" 1 7', longitude 1 1 7" 52'. The fmall de- tached iflet lies from cape Howe S. 08 E. dlftant throe leagues. The land confidered on Tucfday night as the cafternmoil part of the main now appeared to be an ifland, beyond which were {ecu a high rocky bluff point, and a high mountain f jrminiir the eallernmoft land in fii2;ht. A li^ht breeze from the N. N.W. permitted us to draw in with the coaft ; which at noon bore by com- pafs from N. 50 W. to N. 3/ E. the high moun- tain N. 35 E. to the caftward of which, a round hummock, feemingly detached N. 52 E. the land appearing like an ifland from N. lOW. toN. 2 1 W. was now leen to comprehend a duffer of barren rocky ifles, which being the neareft land was about ten miles diftant ; and the high rocky bluff point N. 8 E. In this fituation, the ob- icrvcd latitude was 35" 22', longitude 118" iCV; \^hich ^.ir, 138 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [sEPT. which was eight miles further fouth, and eleven miles further eaft than the log flicwed. Many whales were playing about the lliip during the morning. The high mountain confpicuoufly re- markable for its fuperior elevation above the neighbouring hills, I diftinguiflied, after my highly efteemed friend Sir Alan Gardner, by the name of Mount Gardner ; and the barren rocky clufter of ifles, by the name of Eclipse Islands. The weather was pleafant; and aided by a gentle breeze, a port, round the high rocky bluff point, foon prefented itfelf, into which the Chatham was direCled to lead, and, by four, was fiafficiently advanced to determine on its eligi- bility. The weather by this time had become thick and rainy, with much thunder and li; ht- ning ; bat as the foundings continued regular,we ftood into the port, and paiTed the high rocky bluff point in thirty fathoms water ; direding our courfe clofe along its fhore, which is a high and nearly perpendicular cliff; the founding fud- denly fhoaled to twelve fathoms, and gradually decreafed afterwards, until abrcaft of the fecond white fandy beach ; where we anchored in fix fathoms water, having a clear bottom of fine white fand. A continuation of the thick weather prevented our feeing about us until the morning of Thurf- day the SQth ; which being delightfully fcrcnc and ! 1791.] BOUND THE WORLD. 13() and pleafant, difcovered our (ituation to be very fhug and fecure in a Ijjacious found, open 1 3° of the compafs only to the fea. The high rocky bluff point forming the S. W. extremity of the found, which, from its fmooth appearance, and being deftitutc of verdure, obtained the name Bald-Head, bore by compais S. 85 E. ; a high rocky ifland in the entrance, which, from its beaten appearance by its oppofition to the fea, and S. W. wind, obtained the name of Break- Sea Island, from N. 82 E. to N. 6(j E. ; Mount Gardner, N. 70 E. ; another high ifland named Michaelmas Island, N. 02 E. ; a fmall high ifland called Seal Island, being a great refort of thofe animals, north ; a low flat rock, S. 75 W. ; and to the N. W. was an ex- tenfive white fandy beach ; which promifing fuc- cefs to the feine, a boat was difpatchcd with Lieutenant Puget on a fifliing party. After breakfafl:, accompanied by Mr. Broughton in the Chatham's cutter, Mr. Menzies, Mr. Whidbey, and myfelf, proceeded in the yawl, firft to attend the fuccefs of the fifliermen, and then to examine if the found would afford a more eligible fitua- tion than that which we now occupied. The feine was hauled on the third fandy beach from Bald-Head with little fuccefs. A ftream of frefli water drained there through the beach, which, although nearly of the colour of brandy, was .1 140 A VOYAGE OP DISCO VEl'.Y [SEl'T. was exceedingly well tafted ; by this ftream was a clump of trees, fufficicnt to anfwer our prefcnt want of fuel. At the borders of this clump was found the moft mlfcrable human habitation my eyes ever beheld, which had not long been de- ferted by its proprietor, as on its top was lying a frefh Ikinofa filh, commonly called leather jacket, and by its fide was the excrement of fome carnivorous animal, apparently a dog. The fliape of the dv^elling was that of half a beehive, or a hive vertically divided into two equal parts, one of which formed the hut, in height about three feet, and in diameter about four feet and an half; it was however con{lru(I:ted with fome degree of uniformity, with flight twigs, of no greater fub- ftance than thofc ufed for large baker's bafkets : the horizontal and vertical twigs formed inter- vals from four to llx inches fquarc, and the lat- ter llickinaj a few inches into the earth, were its fecuritv, and fixed it to the ground. This kind of bailcet hut was covered with the bark of trees, and fmall green boughs ; its back was oppofcd to the N. W. whence we concluded thofe to be the moft prevailing winds; Jull within its front, w hich was open the whole of its diameter, a fire had been made, but excepting the fkin of the fifii before-mentioned, there w ere neither bones, fliells, nor other indication on what its poor in- habitant had fubfiftcd. The refl<^d.ions vvliich naturally 17QI.J /' ROUND THR WORLD. 141 naturally arofe on feeing fo mifcrablc a contriv- ance for fheltcr againft the inclemency of fea- fons, were humiliating in the highcft degree ; as they fuggcfted, in the rtrongeft manner, the lowly condition of fome of our fellow creatures, rendered yet more pitiable by the apparent foli- tude and the melancholy afpcdl of the furround- ing country, which prefcnted little Icfs than fa- mine and diftrefs. The fliores confided cither of fteep naked rocks, or a milk-white barren fand, beyond which dreary boundary the furface of the ground feem'ed covered by a deadly green herbage, with here and there a few groveling flirubs or dwarf trees fcat- tered at a great diflancc from each other. This very unfavorable appearance may not, however, originate from the general Herility of the foil, fnice it was evident, fo far as we traverfed the fides of the hills, that the vegetation had recently uiidergoni; the adion of fire ; the largeft of the trees ^ndii^cen burnt, though flightly ; every flirub had ibmc of its branches completely char- red ; and the plants lying dole to the ground had not efcaped without injury. Thus entertaining no very high opinion of the countr}*, but in the hope of meeting with fome of the wretched in- habitants, \\c proceeded along the Ihores of the found, to the northward, to a high rocky point, that obtained the name of Poist Posskssion ; and. 4i^-~m^ \ i \i\ f I If I 1 12 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVBRY [SEPT. and, on reaching its fummit, we gained an ex- cellent view of the found in all dircdions. When on board, we had fuppofcd that the found branch- ed into three arms, but it now became evident that there were only two. One, immediately behind this point, which is alfo its fouthern point of entrance, extended in a circular form, about a league acrofs, bounded by a country much re- fcmbling that before defcribcd, though produc- ing more trees, and with verdure of a livelier hue, and approaching nearer to the water's edge. The other, lying about three miles to the N. E. feerncd almoft as fpacious, though its entrance appeared very narrow. The furrounding coun- try in its neighbourhood prefented a far more fertile and pleafing afpedl. Nearly in the centre of that harbour was an iiland covered with the moll: beautiful herbage ; and inftead of the naked rocks and barren fands that compofe the coaft of the ibund, the clitFs which bounded theie ihores feemed to be of a reddifli clay, and ti|s general texture or character of the foil appeared to be more favorable to the vegetable kingdom, as from the fummlts of the hills to the water fide was feen a ftatcly and luxuriant foreft. The necclTary obfervations being made at this ftation, the Britifh colours were difplayed, and having drank his Majedy's health, accompanied by the ufual formalities on fuch occafions, wc took ««p> l!^91'l ROUND THE WOULD. M3 took pofleflion of the country from the land we faw north-wcllward of cape Chatham, {o far as we might explore its coafts, in the name of his prefent Majefty, for him and for his heirs and fucceflors. This port, the firft which we had difcovercd, I honored with the name of King George the Third's Sound; and this day being the anniverfary of her Royal Highncfs Princcfs Charlotte Augufta Matilda's birth, the harbour behind point PofTeflTion I called Prin- cess Royal Harbour ; which with the found formed point Poflcffion into a peninfula, united to the main by a very narrow barren fandy beach. Here although we could not difcover the lead trace of its having at any time been the rcfort of the natives, yet in every part where we ftraycd, were fcen the fame efteds of fire on all the ve- getable produ<5lions. The ceremony of taking poiTeffion being finifli- ed, we found a pallage, narrow and flioal for feme diftance, into the north-caftern harbour ; where a bar was found to extend acrofs its entrance, on which there was only three fathoms water. Within the harbour, the deep water feemcd to occupy fome fpace to the N. E. and N. W. ; but the day was too far advanced, to permit our making any particular examination. The ver- dant ifland covered with luxuriant grafs and other vegetables, terminated the extent of our rcfcarches; o K ) I \i li - Ml A VOYAGB OF DISCOVERY [oCT. rclciirclics; and as the fitiuition of the vcfRls fccmccl iib convenient as any other tor procuring "vvhat the luund might alFord, I determined to return on board, and lofc no time in availing mylclt'of the benefits it prefented. In our way out of this liarbour, the boats grounded on a bank \vc had not before perceived ; this was co- vered with oyl'ters of a moft delicious flavour, on wliich we funiptuoully regaled ; and, loading in about half an hour, the boats for our friends on board, vvc coninicmoratcd the difcovery by call- in"; it OvsTKu IIauju)i:k. In tlic morning of Friday the 3nth, \\c began cutting vAOod and providing water, which fuffi- cicntly employed all our healthy men ; whilll tliofc who were iVdl indifpofed were (lirc(5led to amufc thcnifelvcs on fliore. Finding it pradi- cablc to phice the fliip much nearer to the fpot whcnc c the wood and water were procured, the next day, Saturday the 111 of Oi5lober, flic was removed ; and, bv Sunda\ the 2d, we had made fuch progrefs, tliat the }awl could be fpared for the further examination of the ibund. In her I proceeded to Piinccfs Royal harbour, where, near a rocky cliti', on the S. W. fide, was found a fmall Ihallow llrcam of excellent water. On tracing its meanders through a copfe it brought us to a defertcd village of tlie natives, amidll the trees, on nearly a level fpot of ground, confifting of about mlKnM.m i-- -ii«t,» 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 14^ about two dozen mifcrablc huts moftly of the fame fafliion and dimcnfions, with that before defcribed, though no one of them fcemcd fo re- cently cre6led. This village had probably been the refidencc of what may in this country be ef- teemed a confiderable tribe ; and the conftrudion of it afforded us an opportunity of concluding, that however humble the iftatc of their exiflence might be, they were not deftitutc of diflindions. Two or three huts were larger, and differed in lliape from the reft, as if a couple w^ere fixed clofc to the fide of each other; but the parts which in that cafe would have caufed a feparation, were removed, and the edges joined clofe together, as defcribed in the plate, leaving the whole of their fronts open, and mcreafnig their diameter about one third more than the reft. Yet were they not an inch loftier, nor were they of greater ex- tent from the front to the back than the finglc one before- mentioned. Fires had been made in the fronts of all, but not recently ; and, except- ing fume branches of trees that feemed to have been lately broken down, there were not any iigns of this place having been vifited for fome time ; and although we were very induftrious to afcertain the food on which the inhabitants of this village fubfiftcd, we ftill remained in igno- rance of it; as neither Ihells, bones, nor any other relids, which might ferve as indications, Vol. I. K could Ji u f n ' 14(i) A VOYAGE OF DISCOVKHV^ [oCT. could be found, notvvithllanding this place had the appearance of a principal rcfort ; for bcfjdc..< the habitations already mentioned, which were in pretty good repair, there were many others in different llates of decay. This fpot was inter- i'eded with fevcral fmall Itreums of water, yet the fame marks of fire were evident on all the vegetable kingdom ; although none of the hut.s fecined to havcjicen affedled by it, wliich led me to fuppofe that thij> general fire was of a lefs re- ' cent date tha;i 'dp iirll I had imagined. In one of the larger huts, probably the refidence of a chief, towards which were feveral paths leading in ditlerent diredions, fome beads, nails, knives, looking glalTcs, and medals, were depofited as tokens of our friendly difpofition, and to induce any of the natives, w ho might, unperceived by us, have been in, the neighbourhood, to favour us with a viiit. Having gratified our curiofity, tliough at the expence of our feelings, in coa- templating thefe very wretched and humiliating efforts of human ingenuity, we returned on board, and having by the morning of Tuefday the 4th, rcplcniflied our water, and taken on board a fup- ply of firewood, Meffrs. Puget and Whidbey went to Oyllcr harbour, with three boats, for the pur- poTc of hauling the feine, and obtaining a quan- tity of thofe ilicll fifli, previoufly to our proceed- ing the foil A\ing morning to fea. In this part of our US 17C)l.] ROUND THE WORLD. 14J our plan, however, wc were difappolnted, as the wind which had blown a llcady moderate breeze from the N. W. towards the evening blew a ilrong gale tVom the S. E. with a heavy fwcll, and prevented the return of the boats ; at the fame time that the cloudinefs of the weather precluded me from making thofe lunar obfcrva- tions, for the fole purpofe of obtaining which I had remained on board. .'./,. . The gale moderating the next morning, Wed- nefday the .Ith, the boats returned, not having been very fuc'cefsful with the feine, but bringing a fufficicnt fupply of oyftcrs not only for our convalefcents, but for the affording alfo of two or three excellent meals for all hands. As the S. E. wind and a heavy fea in the offing prevent* ed our departure, Mr. Broughton was employed in examining the ealtcrn fide of the found from Oyfter harbour to mount Gardner : this was found nearly a ftraight and compact Ihore, on which Mr. Broughton landed in feveral places, where the faiue effects of fire were evident, al- though there were not any traces of the natives or of their habitations to be difcovered. The like caufes of detenfion ftill operating,* on Friday the /th, a party was made for the further examination of Oyfter harbour, and by a little cxcurfion into the country on that fide to acquire Tome information of its natural produdtions, and, K2 if m If Jr f.'i i'i if 118 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ' [oCT. if poflible alfo, of the natives. After examining the channel as we proceeded to the upper part of the harbour, our attention was direded to fcvc- fal large black fwans in very ilately attitudes fwimming on the water, and, when flying, dif- covering the under parts of their wings and breaft to be white: this is all the defcription we were enabled to give of them, fmce they were exccf- fivcly Ihy, and we were indifferent markfmen. In the northern corner of the harbour, we landed near a rivulet navigable only for canoes and fmall boats. It meandered in a northern diredion be- tween the hills, which, opening to the eaft and weft, prcfentcd a fpacious plain with foreft trees occupying the banks of the rivulet, and the lidc# of the hills, even to their very fummits. We proceeded about a league by the fide of the rivU' Jet, which flowed through fo dead a flat, that its motion was fcarcely perceptible, and continued to be brackifli, although in its paflage it received fevcral other fmaller ftrcams of muft excellent water. In it were an abundance of very fine fifh, and on its banks v/ere many black fwans, ducks, curlews, and other wild fowl. On the fides of this ftream, as well as on the fliores in Oyfter harbour, were fecn the remains of fevcral fifli wears, about eight or nine inches high, evidently the forry contrivance of the wretched inhabitants of the country : ibme of thefe were conftruded with ^li. 1791.] P.OUND THE WORLD. HQ with loofe {tones, others with fticks and flumps of wood ; but none of them were likely to be of much utility at this feafon, as feveral were placed nen.rly at, and others above, what now feemcd the high water mark ; but we fuppofed at times, V hen the rain or other caufc fliould extend the rivulet beyond its prefcnt bounds, which in width did not exceed thirty yards, and in depth four or five, feet, thcfe humble contrivances might arreft fomc fmall fifli. Great bodies of water evidently pafs down this ftream at certain feafons, as ap- peared by the river's courfe occupying from two to three hundred yards on each fide the rivulet, the Ibil of which was compofed of fea fand and broken fliells, and was deftitute of any vegetable produdion. This fpace when overflowed muft, from its winding courfe, form a moft beautiful flicct of water. The wears for the taking fifli, and ilcps made in the bark for the purpofe of afccnding fome of the largeft trees, though both exccifivcly rude, were undoubtedly the effects of manual labour, and, with the huts, formed the only indications of the country being inhabited that we were able to difcerrt. There were no paths in the woods, nor were any fmokes to be {i:cn ever the extenfive country we beheld, which fully latisfied us that any further fearch for the natives would be fruitlefs ; and therefore we returned by a different route to the boats. In K 3 our '^- ^-pK?:i I'- ll * 150 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [^OCT. our way we faw the remains oftwo finiilar huts. Near thefe was an ant's neft much of the fame fliape and magnirude, though finlfhed in a very fupcrior ftyie and manner, and fiiewing how very humble is the Ibite of human exiftence, when unaffiiled by civil fociety, and undlreded by the fciences. Having eaten our fait beef we pro- ceeded homewards, much mortified that the many wild fowl we had fccn had cfcaped our vigilance ; but that we might not return empty handed, we Hopped at one of the o}'fter banks, where, in about half an hour, we loaded our boat, and returned on board about nine o'clock in the evcninff. The bank on which we found them in greateft plenty and the bcft flavoured, is that which extends from the north or low point of the entrance towards the little verdant illand. The wind blew a Ibong gale from the E. S. E. and a very heavy fea ran without the found ; but the vellels within rode perfe(5tly quiet. This fort of weather, with much rain, continued until Monday the 10th, when we entertained hopes of getting to fea, as the wind veered to the fouth ; but ibon again refuming its former diredlion, at- tended by the heavy fea in t}ie offing, we remained at anchor until the next day, Tuelday the 1 1th ; which being more favorable to our purpofe, though the wind was ftill adverfe, we weighed, and turned out of the found. About four in the afternoon ^*i.^i», |,..M«».'l-<%U^'j M^ ^J" <^ , 11.. ; ^791-11 '' ROUND THE WORLD. 151 afternoon we regained the ocean ; but tlie w ind at E. N. E. prevented our fleering along the coail, and obliged us to iland to the fouth-eaftward. Whilfl we v^ere getting under weigh, I caufcd to be depofited at the hut near the watering place fome beads, knives, looking-gkiffcs, and other trinkets, as a compenfation to its folitary owner, fliould he ever return, for the wood we had cut down, and deprived hlin of: and to commemo- rate our vifit, near the (lump of one of the trees we had felled, in a pile of flones raifed for the purpofc of attrading the attention of any Euro- pean, was left a bottle fealed up, containing a parchment on which were infcrlbed the names of the vciTels, and of the commanders ; with the name given to the found, and the date of our ar- rival and departure. Another bottle, containing a fmiilar memorandum, was likewife depolited on the top of Seal IHand, with a ftaif eredcd to conduct any vifitor to it, on which was affixed a medal of the year l/SQ. Thc:'*^ who may meet with the ftaff will mod probably ciifcover the bottle hidden near it. This precaution was here taken, on a prefumptlon that Seal lllund was en- tirely out of the reach of the inhabitants, which might not be the cafe where the ildl botlle was iecrctcd. At fun-fct the Eclipfc Ifiands by compass bore N. 71 W. Bald-head N. -15 W. Mount Gardner K 4 N. U II " f I! 1 '''■ 1 1 / : 4; 15!^ A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [oCT. N. 13 E. the hummock mentioned on the 28th, now evidently an ifland, from N. 50E. to N. 5 1 E, and the eafternmoft part of the main land in fight N. 42 E. whence the coaft appeared to take a fharp turn to the northward. As we ilood to the S. E. the wind gradually veered to the north, which, hy day light of Tuefday the 18th, led us out ot fight of the coaft ; but as in the forenoon it \\ as calm and the atmofphere very clear. Mount Gardner was feen bearing N. W. 1 8 leagues dif- tant. In this fituation we had much fwell from the call ward ; and foundings could not be gained at the depth of 200 fathoms. The obferved la- titude was 35° 37^ longitude 119''24^ which was 2^ to the fouth, and l& to the eaft, of v/hat the log fliewed. The wind was light and vari- able until the evening, when it fettled in a ileady breeze at S. W. ; the fwell from the eaft, and E. S. E. ftill continuing, indicated the land in that direction to be at fome diilance. Our unexpeded detention by the late eaftwardly winds, and the advanced feafon, confpired greatly againft profe- cutinc refjarches on this coaft ; I determined, however, not to abandoii that favu/itc obje(!^, pro- vided the taik fhould not prove too dangerous, and intricate ; or that the diicdion of the coaft fliould nut lead us too far out of our way ; as, in refped; of the former, I adted without any autho- rity in the invefligation ; and, in refpedl of the latter, 1791'J ROUND THE WORLD. 153 latter, our time would not now admit of lafh- cient leifurc to pcrfevcrc in the purfuit. Under thefe confiderations our courfe was dircflcd to the N. E. during the night, in hopes of paffing within light of the land lying to the eallward of Mount Gardner, fo as to connect our furvey. Not gaining bottom with 1 lo to 1 -10 fathoms of line; and there being at day-break of Thurfday the* 20th no appearance of the coaft, we ftecred north, which foon brought us within fight of land to the N. W. making like three iilands ; but on a nearer approach, the two wcftcrnmoll were evidently- connected by a low ifthmus to the main land : but the conneding of the northernmoll being uncertain, it obtained the name of Doubtful Island. From the wefternmoft land Cccn this morning, to the eafternmofl: land fecn on Taefday evening, is afpace of l-l leagues, llretchiri!'; S. 5S \V. and N. 58 E. in vvhich no land was leen. The depth of water was at this time 30 fathoms; the bot- tom coarfe fand, with broken fhells and coral. The woithcr was delightfully pleafant ; and, with a gentle gale at S. W. we ftecred along the coaft, which now took a dirediion N. 55 E. our diftance from the Ihore from two to four leagueg. Doubt- ful Ifland, and the fliores to the S. W. of it, nearly refemblcd the reft of the coaft ; but to the N. E. the coaft prqfented a very diftercnt profped: be- ing i'i 1. > ij ' h i 154 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [oCT. ing compofed of high detached chiftcrs of craggy mountains, on a bafc of low and to all appear- ance level land, well wooded, particularly to the N. W. of Doubtful Ifland, where the land falls back to a confidcrable dillance, forming either a deep well- flickered bay, or a low flat country. At noon, a high bluff point, extending from the northcrnmoft cluftcr of mountains, the eaftcrn- moft land then in fight, bore by compafs N. 2-i E. the moft wellern and confpicuous cluftcr of ap- parently difunited mountains N. O7 W. about nine leagues diftant; and the eaft point of Doubt- ful Ifland, the vveftcrnmoft land at that time vi- fiblc, S. 73W. This land forms a remarkable point on the coaft, and is in latitude 31'' 23', lon- gitude 119"4(j'; which, attcr Admiral Lord Hood, I diftinguiflicd by the name of Poi^t Hoo]>. In tills Ikuation, our obferved latitude was 34'' 18^ longitude ll.\)' 11^; being J 3' more to the north, and 0' more to the eaft, than ap- peared by the log. Soon after mid-day, low land was dcfcricd, ftretching out from the high bluff point, which we foiuid fituated not immediately on the fliore, but lomc dlftance inland, whence a very low country extends to the fca coaft, which takes a direv!:iion S, 70 "", breakers in two de- tached places were difcovcrcd at his t.me lying at {bme diftance {n)n\ the land; the neareft of thefc about one o'clcs.:k, bore by comj^afs N. E. four I **Bii^*iW' ^i»j w » n«p i'*^'^r ' »« »*l '^'Vtamtmm^i^ S79^«] ROUND THE WORLD. 155 four miles diftant ; the other, vlfible only from the mart-head, appeared to lie from the former E. by N. two leagues diftant. At this time the depth of water was 35 fathom?; and as the wind blew dn-cdly on the fliore, and the main land, though not more than four leagues off, was not fufficiently high to be dillindly fecn from the deck ; we hauled our tacks on board, and ftood to the S. E. increafing our diftance very flowly. ' At fix in the evening, the nearcll land was a rocky iiland, about two miles in circuit, which bore by compafs N. 13E. eight miles diftant; $nd from the maft-head, the flat low coaft was vifible as far as E. N. E. ; at nine the depth of water had gradually increufcd to forty fathoms. Confidering our prelentasthe moft prudent tack to remain upon until we fliould meet fhoals, or other impediments, I direded the Chatham to lead and Ibund ; our depth gradually incrcafed to 54 fathoms, and the coaft in the morning of Friday the 2 1 ft was in fight from N. E. to caft. The wiiid blew a light breeze from the S. S. E. witli which we ftccrcd for the land until about nine, when wc tacked in ()0 fathoms. The land in light, at that time, from the maft-head bore by C')m}'afs from N. N. W. to E. by N. each ex- tremity fi^e or fix leagues diftant; all this was fuppofcd to be the main, though between north ^ntl E. N. It,, the land appeared l()mcwhat bro- ken. '/' 1 i V^' illl -»• ■ '^%^ H '■!'■ I J t . '^ If. I I J loO A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oCT. ken, occafioned perhaps by fomc of its parts be- ing elevated a little above the rell: of the Ihorc, otf which breiikers were fcen to lie at fome dif- tance ; and the land, which in the morning bore caft, and now bore by compafs N. 87 E. eight miles diflant, was evidently a rocky ifland about a league in circuit, much refembling that which we paiTcd tlic preceding evening. It proved the termination of our refearches on this coaft, and thence obtained the name of Termination Island; on it the fea broke with much vio- lence, and between it and the main was a fmall low iflct. The great depth of water indicated that the bank of foundings which wc had hi- therto found extending along the coaft, termi- nated alfo on its approach to this ifland, as we had no where found fo great a depth of water at this fmall diftancc from the lliore ; which, on be- ing incrcali'd a few miles only, put the fliip in- tirely out of foundings. At noon, the obfcrved latitude was 31" 3-l', longitude 121" 52'; twenty- two miles further caft, and four further north than fticwn by the log. In this fituation the main land from the mail- head was fcen bearing by cvimpafs N. N. W. to E. N. E. i E. ; and Ter- mination illand, fituated in latitude 3-1" 32', lon- gitude 122o SV; N. 8-i E. Between the eallern- moll part of r.he main, fcen the preceding even- ing, and the wcilcrnnioll fcen t'lis morning, is a fpace ■-m-^tm ^..i^. J791.] ROUND THR WOULD. Jo/ fpacc of ten leagues, which we palled hi the night without obferving land ; yet, from the regularity of the foundings, there can be little doubt of its being one continued coaft, and that the courfc by us made good S. 7O E. is nearly parallel to its di- redion. The whole of this low country prefented a dreary afpedl, deftitute of wood, or herbage, and interfperfed with white and brown patches, occafioned, moil probably, by the different co- lours of fand or rock, of which it is compofcd. We here noticed more coaft and oceanic birds, than we had feen on any other part of the fhores : as, befides gannets, and two or three different forts of tern ; albatroifes, and petrels, particu- larly the black and footy, were in great abun- dance. The weather continued very fine, with a light variable breeze in the eaftern quarter, which drew us, not only out of fight, and fome dirtancc from the coaft, but prevented our mak- ing much progrcfs in the direction, in which it fcemed to bend, until Sunday the 23d, when the wind, fettling in the weftern board, we fteered to the E. N. K. in hopes of falling in with the land ; and in the event of its taking a more nor- therly dirci!:iion, the Chatham was ordered to look out three leagues on the larboard beam. At noon, the obferved latitude 35° 30^ the longitude 1 22° 40^ x\t this time, the wind fuddenly fliifted to the fouthward, and was accompanied by / Mill / I' }] ) I 1 > i ' ! I 1 1 58 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [oC:r. by a very heavy fwell in that dirc6lion, which ftrongly indicating the approach of boifterous weather, the Chatham's fignal was made to join, and our courfc was direded E. S. E. ; not dar- ing under all the circumftances of our fituaticn* to run the riik of encountering bad weather on an unexplored coaft, that prefcntcd to us fo many dangers. Befides, as the lownefs of the fhorcs which we had lately feen, and the diftant flioals that we had found extending from them, would cxadl particular caution as wc proceeded, more time would nccciTarily be required in the profe- cution of fuch an inquiry, than the main objedl of our voyage would at prefent allow. I was therefore compelled to relinquilh, with great re- ludance, the favorite projcd: of further examin- ing the coaft of this unknown though intcrefting country ; and, di reding our route over an hitherto untravcrf ;d part of tbefe feas, wc proceeded with- out further c'lclav towards the Pacific Ocean. M I \ CHAPTER 1791.] , ROUND THE WOULD. 139 I • CHAPTER III. .<> (• :,• Remarks on the Country and Produ^ions on Part i of the South-wejl Coajl ofNciv Holland — Extra- , • ordinary Devajiation by Fire — JJhonomical and i: nautical Objervations. * ; ... ALTHOUGH the conrulcruL, ^<5 adverted to in the foregohig ehaptcr, . idcred it im- pradllcable to explore the S. W. coail of New Holland to the extent my wKhes firil led me to imagine, and prevented our afcertalning its boun- dary and connei^lion with, or reparation from. Van Dieman'sland ; yet the information we have acquired, will open a field to thofe whofc duty it may hereafter be to perform that tafk ; by iLewing, that its S. W. part may be approached with the greatefl fafety, as Its fliores are bold with regular foundings to the dillancc of eight or nine leagues, and by the difcovcry of the very excellent harbour in King George the Third's found. Confiderin"' therefore its fituation and conveniences as likely to become of material im- portance to thofe ^^hofe purfuits may induce them to navigate this and the Pacific Ocean, it may not be unintereiljni.'; to detail, in a more particular n M IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1.8 U IIII.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation «=^ // '/^ y ,^^ m. 4 7i 4s •sj iV \\ ^^'^'■^j. %^w 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (716)S72-4503 'V- h T" I 4^ ♦.f < V ■L( '-* V i; ^i lOO A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEUY [oCT*. particular manner, the circumftances that occur- red during our vifit to a country hitherto fo little known to Europeans. Our furvey comprehended an extent of 1 10 leagues, in which fpacc we faw no other haven or place of fecurity for fhipping than the found before mentioned ; notwithftanding the opinion of Dampier, who has confidered the whole of the weftern part of New Holland as confifting of a cluftcr of iflands. He was undoubtedly a judi- cious obfervcr, of very fuperior talents ; and, it is moft likely, formed his opinion from the many iflands which he found compofmg the exteriot coaft of the N. W. part of this extenfivc country. However juft may be his conclufions as to that part of New Holland, they certainly do not ap- ply to its fouth weftcrn fide, as no very material fcparation, either by rivers, or arms of the fea, was difcovcrcd in the neighbourhood of our fur- vey. Had fuch breaks in the coaft cxifted, and had they efcapcd our obfervation, it is highly probable we iliould have met in the fea, or feen driven on its Ihorcs, drift wood and other pro- du6lions of the interior country. The very deep colour alfo of the feveral ftreams of water may polTibly be occafioned by the quality of the foil through which they flow ; whence it may be in- ferred that, if any confiderable inland waters had their fourcc far in the country, or if any great body 1.. [ocr. i 1 ■HP-! n.y ri(> 131 K "Tnrrrz rl — r-i mr :i : ~J — I t-t/ . ' i i ,r ,i, >_j -rr::x. nr: j::-j: r:: j rrcr:i::3L-rL"tm: • 4 C UAR r ,s'hewi tiff 'Part of the H3V.COAHT OK Xl^lW lUDLLAXy With tin' IhhAs ol J/.. U.S /,>,>/, DISCOVF.RYaml Jrmal 'J^'N^lcr ( if A TUAM l\iiuiu,iiuli;l In- (l('i>.V(niC<>U Vcr l-l\ fi/J . '-3:--r:z—J.--:^ hj: / /^/.^v, CKOROK '"",„^jji^ \. -' k.i/,/ //.-.I./ „ ^ \... ■"'-... a-_-..i-:icrT:r,7zn .:r"rnr::.::x:: 17 "Kast lAtii^'itiiilc /nw (iivfiiwicin Ut" i^^-T-: J "cj "■'.> ji4Aiuu:Ht.'>".i /.V/Ji.V I,*)) -> — n Q'(?//<7Y/v?-'ivl;- ^ il J K R ('. K 6 '.1 ' \i l:iU.\y \ 1) ,S Lli'ii' lii'lSfst t oiiiiM.unliM aiiil .>-///ivr.'./ ly M'.I.himIi ..'•■/ifHi'inrr S.HK.VKiM.IHIISs I. ■if.' J^i ft/((f.v As h''> ♦.i"'::,,.*'"' rw /i{H\t:\K\\ I !•> t x— -ir— -l-j l: 14 t,u„.l'> 1\'V K. :i=c-i.nnr:=i::rr^r-_:;ia : .r_4.-rr=ir "6 — ^ — frr.r- /..■iiiiiiu.li- i'n>/ii ihri-imf'li I- 1" /■' , ////.r..« ■''* ^ i\' .f(llllliUltlv i H.rrn.iMisi.Axn I i.,ii. ./..■.■.■•/,liii. fuNuiitJ M,n /'v/.aV, KfiiNi-'-ti. .1 .i); ,„,( K. i/'/i\iiii\/ .ff,tl i"i/,m. /i',/'"''/''''*'. '•'■'■.. w,^/,V(i'/,»/.:.''''.i;;''/,v.v/';-.<.Wv>fi/,?/('./;i-,)/,/'/iV')'. J 11.5' J rxrrcnrrtiiirt" :trr c- i i ■,i_...,L-± . : k i N H-W, DISCO] ^^ .^ '^i I ! tncir luurcc i«r m irnc country, or ir any greas body 1791.] . iROUND THE WORLD. l6l body deiccnded from its (hores, the fca along the coail would in ibme meafurc have been dlfco- loured ; but neither of thefe evidences cxiftcd, for on our approach to the land, there was no pre- vious appearance to indicate its vicinity. This opinion was further corroborated on infpcc^ing the habitations and places of the natives' rcfort ; where not the leaft remains of canoes, or other circumftance prefcnted itfclf, which could con- vey the moft diftant idea of thefe people having ever triifted themfelves on the water; a circum- ftance which it is reafonable to fuppofc would fometimes have happened, had their country been infulatcd, or their travelling been interrupted by large rivers or arms of the fea ; efpccially as all appearances favored the conjecture of their being by no means a ftationary people. There was great reafon, however, to conclude, that the country was well fupplied with frefli water ; as wherever we chanced to land, we cafily procured that valuable article, not only where tlie foil was of confiderable depths but from ftreamlets iifuing out of the folid rocks. This feemed to be the cafe even on the moft elevated land, which caufcd a very fmgular appearance when the fun flione in certain dire^ions on thofe mountains whofe furfaces were deftitute of foil ; for on thefe, made humid by the continual oozing of the water, a Vol. 1, briii;lit , } I! m I . I If/ I el u IG2 A VOYAGE OP 1)I';C0\ KRY [oCT. bright glare was prodaccd that gave them the rclciDblance of liills covered with Ihow. Our relearclies afforded little matter v/orthy of notice excepting fnch as appertained to King George the Third's Sound. This port has its entrance in latitude 35^' :/, longitude 118" 1 ;'. It is eafily known on approaching it from the v/eilvvard, as it is the firft opening in the coall: that prefents any appearance like an harbour, eallward of cape Chatham. The Eclipfc Iflands being the only detached /uju! that can be fo re- garded, arc an excellent guide to the found, hav- ing, between them and Bald-head, fome rocks on which the fea breaks with great violence. The port is fafc, and cafy of acccfs any where between its outer points of entrance, Bald-head, and Mount Gardner, lying N. 02 E. and S. (32 W. 1 1 miles diilant from each other. Mount (jardner is not lefs confpicuous and ufeful in pointing out the found from the eaftcrn quarter, than in its being rendered very remarkable by its handfome lliapc, and its rocky, and almoft uninterrupted poliflicd furface to its fummit. Its bafe may be faid ra- ther to form the caftern extent of the coaft, than the oppofitc point of the found, there being within it a projection which more properly forms the N. E. point of the :^ound, lying from Bald- head N. 30 E. about five nulcs diftant. Between thcfo 1 1 IS 4 1/91.] ROUND THE WORLD. l63 thefe latter points arc Michaelmas, and Break Sea iflands, each about a league in circuit, one mile apart, nearly equidiftant between the two points, and affording to all appearance • good channels on every fide. The water fuddenly de- creafes in its depth from 30 to 12 fathoms ; the latter depth uniformly continuing acrofs from point to point, I fhould conceive, mult be an additional means of preventing any very heavy fca from rolling into the found ; which, in the moft expofed place of anchorage convenient to the fhore, is only open from E. by N. to S. E. by E. Between thefe limits are fituatcd tlie tw o iflands above-mentioned, whence the found ex- tends W. by N. about two leagues to point Pof- felfion, and from our anchorage to Oyiler har- bour, north about the fame diilance, with regu- lar foundings in mid-channel of 12 to 15, and 10 to fathoms clofe to the fhore, excepting near Seal ifland, where there is a hole of 2 1 fathoms. The Difcovery and Chatham were moored in a fituation, not only very convenient as to communica ion with the fliore, but I be- lieve, in perfedt fecurity as it refpected the ele- ment : for although the fea broke fomctlmcs with fucli violence on Break Sea ifland, that the fuif ranged to its elevated fummit, during a conti- nuance of the boiflerous weather ; yet it did ivX occafion us the leafl inconvenience. A more .L2 /^ iQ-i A VOYAGi: OF DISCO VKr.Y foCT. eligible fituation it' rcijuircd in the found might very probably be met with above the flat rock, as vciiclb would be there more completely land- lock ctl ; and a convenient llmdy cove, cafily to be difcovercd in that neighbourhood, is iurnifhed witli a Itrcam of excellent trcfli water, which though to all appearance not better in quality than the water we received on board, was yet more plcafmg to the eye, not being of fo deep a colour. Princcfs lloyal harbour admits of a pafTagc into it about a quarter of a mile wide ; ncarcfb to the northern ihore the depth is five or fix fa- thoms, but on the fouthcrn, not more than 2i and three fathoms water ; occafioned by banks of coral rock which are very confpicuous, and, not being liable to any of the violent agitations of the lea, arc by no means dangerous. Within the points of entrance, the depth is regularly from four tofeven fathoms, and the bottom clear, good holding ground. This depth, though occupying part only of the harbour, yet affords a fufHcient ^pacc for fcvcral veilcls to ride in fafety. Oyfter harbour is rendered admiiTible alone for vcffclsof a middle fize, by the fliallownefs of the water on the bar, extending from Ihore to fliore, on which we found 1/ feet water only, although the depth increafed from five to feven fathoms on each fide. The deep water within the i < FV.J r 1701.] . nOUXD THR WORLD. \6j the harbour did dot fcem ofany ^rcat extent. In both tlicfc harbours the comiimnication \Mth the country is rendered unplealant by the fhallow depth o{ water in moft places extending to a great dillance from the fliorc. This inconve- niency could cafily be remedied, Ihould it ever be an object fo to do, by wharfs ; althou|r;li it is not unlikely that on a more minute ini})c6ii()n the neceffuy for fuch a mcafure would ceafc tq appear. i'-.^ •- ' ■ ^- . . ' ; . ■ In navigating the found, we did not obfervc any danger that was not fuliieiently confpicuous to be avoided ; circumftances however did not admit of our acquiring that fatisfadtory informa- tion refpedling Princefs lloyal and Oyller har- bours which fall into it, that could have been wiflied ; } et fo far as relates to the found, the annexed iketch will I believe be found to con&ain no very material error. The appearance of this country along the coafts, rcfembles, in moft refpecls, that of Africa about the Cape of Good Hope. The furfacc llemed to be chiefly compoled of fand mixed with decayed vegetables, varying exceedingly in point of richnefs ; and although bearing a great limilarity, yet indicating a foil fuperior in quality to that in the immediate neighbourhood of Cape Town. The principal component part of tLiv country appeared to be coral ; and it would kcm L a thai r > XI < lOC) A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oCT. that its elevation above tlie ocean is of modern (late, not on]y I'roin tlie Hiores, and the bank which extends along the coaft being, generally Speaking, composed of coral, as was evident by our lead never defccnding to the bottom without bringing up coral on its return ; but by coral being found on the higheO: hills we afccnded; particularly on the fummit of Bald-Head, which is fufficiently above the level of the fea to be fccn at 12 or 11 leagues diftance. Here the coral was entirely in its original ftatc ; particularly in one level fpot, comprehending about eight acres, which produced not the lead herbage on the white fand that occupied this fpace ; through which the branches of coral protruded, and were found uanding exadly like thofe fecn in the beds of corpJ beneath the furface of the fea, with ra- mifications of different fizes, fomc not half ai^ inch, others four or five inches in circumference. Jn thefe fields of coral (if the term field be al- lowable) of which there were fevcral, fea fhells were in great abundance, fome nearly in a per- fccfl f^atc ilill adhering to the coral, others in different fiagcs of decay. The coral was friable in various degrees ; the extremities of the branches, fome of which were nearly four feet above the fand, were eafily reduced to powder, whilff thofe cloie to, or under the furface, re- quired fome fmall force to break them from the rocky 1791.1 RotTKT) TTTT wnni.D. yCyj rocky fouiulatioii from whence tlicy appeared to fprinjr. I 5iavc fccii coral in many places at a coniidcrablc diilancc from the fca ; but in no other inftancc have I Cccn it To elevated, and in luch a (late of' perfection. In tlic lower lands we frequently met \\ith ex- tcnfive tracts occupied by a kind of okeri(h fwampy peat, or moorifli Ibil of a very dark brown colour, f ermine; as i^ were a cruft, which Ihook and trembled when walked upon ; with water oozin.'i; throu'di, or runninii: over the fur- face, in all diredions. Throuirh thib foil moft of the itrcamb take their courfe, and it is to their impregnation in thcpaOliire, that the ^rencra] hi,i]:li colour of the water is to be attributed. Thelc l*warnj)s were not always confined to low and level fp^ots, but were found on the acclivity of the higher lands; and where thefc did not oc- cupy the fides of the hills, the foil was deep, and appeared infinitely more produdlivc than the fur- face of the plains; cfpecially thatthrou2;h vviiich the rivulet in Oyftcr harbour has been mention- ed to flow. In that plain we found, at irregular intervals, juft beneath the furface, a fubllratum of an apparently impcrfc6t chalk, or a rich white marie, feemingly formed of the lame decayed Ihells, with which the courfe of the river abound- ed. Thefe llrata, about eia;ht or ten varus broad, run perpendicularly to the rivulet ; their depth L, I we "*« , -^T\ ' •-»*..*. w i if ■ '1 ' , j . k \ i . ( V ' ''n I . 168 A yOYAGE OF DISCOVBRY [oCT. ive had not leifure to examine, although there feemed little doubt of finding this fubftance in fufficient abundance for the purpofes of manure, ihoukl ':he cultivation of this country ever be in contemplation. The general ftruifture of it feemg very favorable to fuch an attempt, as the moun- tains are neither flcep nor numerous ; noi: do thq rifmg grounds form fuch hills as bid defiance to the plough ; vyhile they produce that fort of di- yerfity vihich is grateful to the eye, and not un- pleafant to the traveller. :. \- This chalky earth was alfo found in the neigh- bourliood of a mooriih foil ; and, on a more mi- nute examination, feemed much to refemble an earth defcribed in Cronfladt's Mineralogy at thq bottom of his note fyj page ?1. It did not ilicw any figns of effervefcence with acids, nor; did it burn into lime ; but, like the earth alluded to, contains a number of fmall tranfparent cryf- tals. Thefe were vifible without a microfcope ; and as, on applying the blovy pipe, vitrification took place, it might probably be ufefully appro- priated in making a fort of porcelain. The Hones we found were chiefly of coral, with a few black and brown pebbles, flate, quartz, tvvo or three forts of granite, with fomc fand ftoncs, but none feeming to pofTefs any metallic; quality. ' ' - ^ • .■ The climate, if a Judgment may be formed by 1791'] ' BOUND THE WORLD. I69 fo ihort a viiit, feemcd delightful : for though we contended with (bmc boifterous weather on our approach to the coaft, nothing lefs ought reafonably to have been expeded at the feafon of the vernal equinox, and breaking up of the win- ter. The gales we experienced in King George the Third's Sound, were Hot of fuch violence as to put veflels at fea pad their top-fails ; although whilft the S. W. wind continued a moft violent fca broke with incredible fury on the exterior fliores. This however can eafily be imagined, when the extenfive uninterrupted range which the wind in that diredion has over the Indian ocean is taken into confideration : during the continuance of this wind the atmofphcrc was to- lerably clear, though the air was keen. Farcn- hclt's thermometer, at'thc time of year anfwer- ing to the beginning of April in the northern hcmifpherc, flood at 5 3°; but at all other times during our flay, varied between 58" and Ch°, and the barometer from 29 " 90 to 30 " 50. Slight colds were caught bv the crew, which oueht rather to be imputed to their own want of care th:ui to the climate, as on getting to fea the par- tics foon recovered. Our convalefcents in the flux received much bencfii, though their health could not yet be confidcrcd as thoroughly re-efla- bliihcd. Thefe circumftanccs induced an opi- !,ji.'.)n, that the rlimate and lull bade fair to be ca- pable • -*».-.r=ss.3-<*.. -^ -- ^Bjr*.-r«.-t--l'%«J«*ii* m. 170 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [oCT. pable of producing all tlie cflentlals, and many of the luxuries of life ; although on the fubjcdt of agricultural improvement, I felt myfclf as unqua- lified to determine, as to enumerate fcientifically the fcveral trees, flirubs, and plants with which the country abounds. Of the two latter there appeared a great variety, and I believe afforded to Mr. Menzies much entertainment and em- ployment. Amongit the mod remarkable was tic gum plant, found every where in great abun- dance, and anfvvcring, in all its charaders, to the defcnpcion and rcprcfcntation of that plant found at port .liickfon, as mentioned in Philips's voyage. Wild celery was iound in quantities fufficient for cnir pca-foup, and dailv to fupply the people by way ot' lauce to their faltcd meat : this with fam- plr.re were tlic only eaUiblc vegetables wc pro- cured. Other plants v.erc numerous, and af- forded a i2;reat vurictv of beautiful flowers. The ihrubs alfo were abundant, and of many fpccies ; but neither thci'c nv)r tlie trees grew fo clofely toji;ei:hcr as materially to incommode travelling;, even i.i the neighbourhood of Oyfter harbour, and as th \v hcrv i.)C coiintrv is \crv we VVOfJU led Al'C branches ut the trees do vproacti witlnii •in- i'evcra 1 f< 01 t irrounc an c xtenfi ve view IS admitted in e\erv direcHon. Tiie forcft tree: 1 ccn: :d (){ tcnir ditiercnt forts. The moil moil nr.-.eh reieinMed the hollv, but moit corn- were not I it 1791.] ROUND THE V/ORLD. 171 not of the larger fort ; that which I took to be the gum tree of New South Wales, by its foliage and its producing a confiderable quantity of gum, feemed to be a hard, ponderous, clofe-grained wood: of this defcription the larger trees feemed chiefly to confifl: ; one of thefe meafured nine feet four inches in girth, and was of a propor- tionable height. Thofe from which our fuel was procured were of the myrtle tribe, not unlike the pimento of the Weft Indies, in fhape, appear- ance, and aromatic flavor of the foliage ; and in the hard and clofe texture of the wood, which makes an excellent and plcafant fire, burning cheerfully yet confuming fiovv ; whilft, from the fmoke, a very fpicy agreeable fragr nee is exhal- ed. Thefe do not, in general, grow to large timbers ; but there is another fpecies much re- fcmblins; them, with rather broader leaves, and poflcffing like them an aromatic flavor, which grow to a confiderable fize. Thefe, with a fpe- cies not unlike the filver tree of the Cape of Good Hope, were the trees that were found ge- nerally to compofe the foreft. For the benefit of thofe who may vifit the country hereafter, fome vine-cuttings and watcr- crcircs were planted on the ifland in Oyfter har- bour, and at the place from whence we procured our fuel ; and an aflbrtment of garden feeds, with fome almonds; orange, lemon and pumkin feeds VNcre Hi I 7- i7'2 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [ocT. were fovvn. The whole being the produce of Africa, I fliou.ld have entertained little doubt of their fuccefs, had it not been, that there was much to apprehend in their being over-run by the natural productions of the country. Of the animal kingdom, fo far as relates to the tenants of the earth, little information was de- rived. The only quadruped feen was one dead kangaroo ; the dung, however, of thefe or fomc other animals feeding on vegetables, was almoft every where met with, and frequently fo frefh as to indicate that the animal could not be far removed. Of the birds that live in or refort to the woods, the vulture may be faid to be the moft common, as wc faw feveral of this fpccies, or at leaft, birds that were fo coniidered. Hawks of the flilcon tribe, with feveral others of that genus ; a bird much refembling the Englifli crow, parrots, par- roquets, and a variety of fmall birds, fomc of which fung very melodiouily, were ♦■hofe which attracted our attention the moft ; but all were fo exccffively wild and watchful, that few i'peci- mcns could be procured. Of the water fowl, the black fwan leemcd as numerous as any otiier fpccies of aquatic birds in the neighbourhood of Oyftcr harlx)ur, but they were leen in no other pl.icc. There was alfo black and white pelicans of a large lort, ieeu at a dillance ; and though duck^ ^-. £3lw<»-i» *^ »' — — " iygl.] RouNi) Tiir, woRtn. 173 ducks were in great numbers, we were very un- fuccefsful in taking them. A very peculiar one wa^ Ihot, of a darkilli grey plumage, with a bag like that of a lizard hanging under its throat ; which fmclt fo intolerably of mufl<. that it fccnted nearly the whole Ihip. There was alio many gray curlews, and fea-pics ; of the latter we pro- cured a few, which were excellent eating. The aquatic birds before enumerated, with fliags, the common gull, two or three forts of tern, and a few fmall penguins of a blucifh colour, included tVie whole of the feathered tii'oc in the vicinity of the fliores. With the produc5lions of the fca, we were not much more acquainted ; which is rather to be attributed to our want of ilvlll as filbcrmen than to its want of bounty. Some of the few filli we caught were very excellent, particularly of the larger fort ; one much refcmbling the fnook, and another the calipevar of Jamaica, both of high flavor ; as was a kind of filh not unlike, nor in- ferior in quality to, the Englilb red mullet. Thefe, with the common white mullet, rock fifli, mack- erel, herrings, and a variety of fmall filh, were thofe we procured, though not in any abundance. WhiHt on the coaft, whales and fcah> were frequently playing about the ililp ; of the latter, we faw about a fcore at one time on Seal ifland. Ths lirtle trouble thf-fe animals tool: to avoid us, nidicatjd Li I W 174 A VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY foCT. indicated their not being accuftomed to fuch vi- fitors. The throat and belly of thefc fcals, which were of a large fort, were nearly white ; between the head and flioulders, the neck rifes in a kind of creft, which, with the back, was of a light brown colour ; their liair was exceedingly coarfc ; the carcafe very poor, and afforded little blubber; which, however, may be imputable to the fea- fon. Reptiles and noxious animals fccmcd by no means to be numerous, as only two or three yellow, and bronze- coloured fnakes were feen, which were i^ood eatinii; ; thcfc, with a few li- zards of the common fort, and ibmc about eight or nine inches long of a thick clumly makr Jark colour, and altcjgether exce^ivcly ugly, were what compofed that race of animals. Some beautiful beetles, common flies, and mufkitoes, were oc- cafionally met with, but not in fuch numbers as tor produce inconvenience. It would now remain to fay fomething of the human fpecies, the inhabitants of this country; but as we were not fo fortunate to procure an interview with any one of them, all that can be advanced on this fubjcdl muft be founded on conjecture or nearly fo, and confcquently very liable to error ; it may, however, not be unac- ceptable to llate fuch circumftanccs as, on the fpot, occurred to our obfcrvation. xhe LOCT. fuch vi- ils, which between in a kind )f' a light ly coarfc ; blubber; the fca- ;d by no or three 're feen, i few li- ut eight ^'c lark ■re what eautiful 'ere oc- crs as to ; of the •untry ; lire an cau be Jed on y very unac- >n the .1. he ■'^" "•"Hjsi^~j ~l ''■''''•"""'"•"''■' •^""" •' •'^'■''•^' """ " '?TT^!^S A DKMKRTKD iNDiAN VlLi.A(JK /i// A/.vy; Gkoj, '■ '"' ''■"'-'"^'^'^'^''li'* fy H a:...,/.. y,.„. n.,„, so;.... , ,;,.„., I - .^- ^ ' i?1^^^ .^!i^' ■'-i <■-.' w^l^^--;' t ^^ f' • "^ ' v.- ^' 7 ■ ' '^TV _■- ■ ^^-tT^ ^ i^J?;-^T>= m^: "/'I ■ '^'/'l ■SA-ii^*. __ n^^ ./. /,inuf,\('r r Stttlf K/ya Ckorgk nj.Sovyj), iSk^v [((/.[.land l/>/.f .V.»r lioiitl Sdift, I h:,l>vl>i/iSiiii lli/i)/i,>.i/i/- /in 1: t Mil ^/\ 'I fy.J/<:i>uu/ifi/i/:/ni>n ,i Mttt-/i iiitii/f ivi t/ir S/iot In .I.SyKvx ./.LiiliilirnS'liif A ;oKMKKTK]) Indian Vi'"^ /( >niii 'fi i*ttititA'h*'*i ir" \ ■ —— V" '.»-» 1791.] ROUND Tiin \vo:-i,D, 175 The natives appeared to be a wanck iliij: people, who fomctlnies made their cxcuifiuns indUidu- ally, at other tunes in coniiderablc parties ; thij was apparent by their habitations belni.'; loiiiul lingle and alone, as well as compofing tolerably large villages. Befides the villap;c I vifitcd, Mr. Brougiitoii dllcovered another about two miles dilbant from it, ot* nearly the fame ma^!;nitude ; but it appeared to be of a much later date, as all the huts had been recently built, and Teemed to have been very lately inhabited. It v\as tituatcd in a fwamp, which might probably have been preferred to £| hiijrher and firmer land for the convenience of water. One or two huts of a larger fizc were here alfjf obferved ; the reil were precifely of the fame defcription with thofe in our neighbour- hood. The larger trees in the \lcinity of both villaares had been hollowed out bv fire, fuffi- cicntly to afford the flielter tlicfe people fccmed to re([uire. Upon ilones -placed in the infide of thefe hollow trees fire? had been made, which proved that they had been ufed as habitations, either for tlic inferior of the party, which would ar.iue a further dc;i;rec of fubordination amcnrft tr.em, or for thofc who were too indolent to build themfelvcs the wattled huts before defcribed. No one fpecics of furniture or utenfil was dlf- <-o\ered In an}' of tlic iiuufes ; the only iiT.ple- ments It I .1 17^ A v6yaoe ot n/sCovftiiY foCT. mcnts fccn, were pieces of ilicks intended as fpears, rudely wrought, and the operation of manual labour upon them but flightty difccrnible. The bark was dripped off, and the thickeft end, after having been burnt in the fire, was fcrapcd and reduced to a blunted point, on one of which fome blood was found Hill adhering, Deflitute (as they fccmed) of the means, and totally ignorant of every mode of embarkation, it is not likely that they place much dependence on marine produdions for their fubfiftcnce ; yet it was evident from the wears on the fhores, and from the mouths of the brooks near the villages being flopped up, that they fometimes refort to the rivulets and to the fca for provifions. On this account, it was confidered rathcr'extraor- dinary, that the bones of the filhes on which they had fed were no where to be found ; and this led to a fuppofition that thofe which their endeavours enabled them to procure were very Imall. It appeared flill more extraordinary that, fmce they drew a certain proportion of their food from the fea, they fliould not have difcovered fo excellent a part of its produce as oyfters and clams ; notwithftanding that the latter fliow themfelves on the beaches over which they muft frequently walk ; and that the former at low water require only wading half-leg deep on thc' Ihoals that extend from the main land to gathct in |very hat, Ifood dfo and low uft low the' thct in 1791.] kOUND tHE WORLD. I77 in a few minutes a day's Tub if enro. Neither did it appear that they h.id any kr vvlcdgc of thefc, the hmpcts, nor any other fhci: filh toi.nd ftmongll the rocks ; or if they had, for Ibi o rea- fon not cafdy to be imagined, they certainly made no life of them ; othcrsvife their flicUs in nil hii- jnan probability would have been fecn near tbc places of their rel()rt. Ilcncc it may naturally be inferred, that the land principally fupplies their wants, or hunger would long fnice have conducted them to fuch excellent rcfources. This opinion is fupportcd by the extreme fliynefs of the feathered creation, and the wildnefs of the quadrupeds, whofe footing, and the other flgns of their blsing at no great dillance without our obtaining any fight of tlicm, ibfliclently proved that they were conftantly purlucd. This circum- ftance may furni'h a probiibic conjeclurc on the caufe of the very extraordinr.iv 'lovafuitionby fire, which the vegetable productions iiUu fuficred throughout the whole country we had travelled. Fire is frequently refortcd to by nidc nations, cither for the purpofe of encouraging a fvvcctcr growth of herbage in their hunting grounds, or as toih for taking the wild animals, of which, they arc in purfuit. When the forcd is fet on fire for fuch purpofes in a dry feafon, its ravages may become very extenfive ; and the inflam- mable quality of the gum plant, which is here in Vol. I. M great 7. ■"W^llte- k I M ^ ll 178 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEKY foCT. great abundance, may operate to promote that general luivock \vhicli vvc obfervcd in the vege- tahlc kni\ tN r.iw^jiiiiii jur^fcw umijtm 179'1-] BOUND THE WORLD. igl feemed to be greatly ifluenccd by the force and diredion of the wind ; our laft vifit, however, to Oyfter harbour afforded an opportunity of notic- ing that the rife and fall appeared on that day to be about four feet, and that it was high water 3'^ 42' after the moon paffed the meridian. Whilft on the coaft the vcffels were conftantly found to be further advanced, than what tlic run of the log intimated ; but whether this was pc- cafioned by errors in this praaiee, or by a current continually preffing eaftward along the coaft, we had no pofitive means of difcovering ; though, irom our conclufions at the time, the latter Ihould fcem to be the cafe, as the log was not only ufed '^ith much circumfpeaion, but the line was fre- quently remeafured, and always found according to its due proportions. M3 CHAPTER "' •■■ ^ i1F -mmm 'V }89 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [oCT. If f CHAPTER IV. Fajfa^e from the fouth-weji Coaji of New Holland: — Pnfs Fail Dtemans Land — Arrival in Dujky Bay, New Zealand — Violent Storms — Leave DuJky Bay — A violent Storm — Much Water found i?t the Ship — Part Company with the Chatham — Difcover the Snares — Proceed to- wards Otaheite — Arrive and join the Chatham there. OUR apprchcnfions of approaching boiftcrous weather, proved in the fcquel to have been ill founded ; for notwithftanding the S. W. fwcll on the J 7th greatly incrcafcd, a gentle gale con- tinued to attend us, chiefly from the weftern quarter, with plcafant weather. With this wc fleered to the S. E. and without the occurrence of any intervening circurrftance worth relating, made fuch progrefs, that on Wcdncfday the 2(}th wc ha' flight of Van Dieman's Land, bearing by compafs E.N.E. l o or 12 leagues dlHant. Sound- ings at this time could not be gained at the depth ot 80 fathoms. During this paiTagc few oceanic bird> had been feen ; a continual and heavy fwell had rolled between the fouth and weir, and we experienced ■\ \ J791.") ROUND THE WOHLD. 183 experienced the fame fort of influence in our reckoning as on the coaftofNcw Holland, in finding the Ihip every day farther advanced than v\c expcdcd. A continuance of fine weather al- lowed fcvcral lunar obfervations tq be taken, ■which were vcre Ihortly enabled to fet the fails ; and, having a ftrong gale at the N. N. W. though attended with heavy fqualls, I was not without hopes of reaching our dcftination in Facile harbour before dulk. But about five, a very violent gufl of wind carried away the flrap of the fore-topfail ilicet block ; the ftayfail fliects and haulyards gave way ; and the fore-topmafl ftayfail fplit : the gale fcemcd to be incrcafmg, and as we were in too narrow a channel to repair thefe damages before we fliould have loft all the diftancc we had gained, it was exceedingly fortunate that we had Anchor iiQand harbour to leeward of us, for which we immediately ftcercd ; and running in by the wcllern entrance, anchored at the mouth of the cove in 20 fathoms, foft muddy bottom ; and after vccrincT to half a cable, our ftern was in l.> fathoms water, about *10 yards from the ilkmd that lies at the bottom of the cove. The lliip was llcadicd by hawfcrs, from the bows to the )01 nts of the cove, and from the quai trees on cac h fid< Th ic jiaie mere a ters to the fed during the I ! 1S8 A VOYAGE OF DrSCOVEUY [^NOV. the night ; and it became ncceflary to ftrikc the lower )ards and top-gallant mafts. Our appre- henfions for the fafety of the Chatham were not relieved until, by rowing over to the Petrel illands the next forenoon, Friday the -4th, and by walk- ing acrofs the land, we had the happinefs to fee her ride in perfect fafety ; but as flie was diredlly to windward, and the gale continued to increafe, Mr. Eroughton was unable to get on board. Sa- tisfied with the fecurity of her ftation, we re- turned to the Dlfco^ery, when the violence of the gale from the N. 'V. obli^zed us to ftrlke the topmails, it not bcin;j; rn our power to veer more cable, or allow the Ihip to drive, without her being on the rork? nftern ; of which, even with thcfc precautions, we entertained fome fears ; al- though in n fituation perfectly land locked, and the weather iliorcs n(jt more than five cables length diftant. The violence of the gale ftill continuini:,, the fmall bower anchor wai dropped under foot. In the evening the wind moderated a little, wiiich fccmcd to be for the fole purpofc of acquiring and returning with new vigor, as, by two on Saturday morning the 5th, the gale in- ^rcafcd to fo violent a ftorm, as to oblige us to lower the top-malls clofe down to the cap, and to get our yards and top-gallant mafts fore and aft on the deck. From live o'clock until eight, it blew a pcrfccl: hurricane, attended with tor- rents more her with al- and blcs ftill ped ated •pofc as, |e in- is to and and tor- rcnt^: 1791.] mpXTJ TIfR \ oRtn.' 18Q rents of rain. Wc were happil\ t very <"uug, iecurc little harbour, yet the lea at witi Aich unremitting violence againft the w .cdi- ately ail:ern of us, that had either the anchor ot cable given way, little clfe but inevitable dcftruc- tion muft have followed. Our anxiety was in- finitely incrcafcd by our Solicitude for the wilfarvi of the Chatham ; but as the llorm with us at N. W. by W. was diredly from off the high land under which flie rode, we comforted ourfelvci with the hope Ihc might not experience its fury to the degree it affeded us. About nine a moft tremendous gull caufcd the fliip to roll excef- fively ; this was immediately followed by a flafh of lightning, and a heavy cralli of tliunder, which broke :ip tiic llorm ; iind in the fpaci' ci half lui hour, the weather mi[':l't i)e confidercd. cornpa- paratively fpcaking, as fair and picaiaul. Mr. Broughton immediately repaired to the Chat-- liam, and had the inexprelliblc plcafure of find- ing that Ihe had rode out the ga'e in a manner far beyond all cxpeclation. At her ftation tlie ftorm had blown irom the N. N. E. direclly down the arm in which Ihe was at anchor ; the lea broke Intlrely over her, though it had not a fetch of three miles, and in a channel not three quarters of a mile wide ; yet with her yards and topmafts dole lo-vveied, and two anchors down. Ihc rode out t\\h Iwavv ilcrm in perfec'-t Iccurity. 2 t r 1 I tgO A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY f NO l". fccurlty. Mr. Broiigliton loft no time in getting nnder weigh, and worked into Facile harbour; to wl)!('li J luce, not\vlthfi::indln,'7; our having been obliged to feck fliclter here, it was my intention to have gone ; but as vvc were now completely difmantled, and finding that frum thcfe fliorcs all our wants could be conveniently lupplied, I de- termined to remain quiet, and to fct about the feveral repairs we required with all pofliblc dif- patch. Parties were immediately employed on the different ferviccs of cutting wood lor fuelj timber for fpars and planks ; brewing fprucc beer; repairing the falls and rigging, calks, &rc. &c. which nccelTary and cflential duties engaged every perlbn on board. A fmall boat with four men, daily employed in fiflilng, never re ;urned with- out an abundance of excellent fifli for prefent ufc, and a fupply for every one who chofc to fait them for future occafions. The N. W. gale did not intirely abandon us, it again blew with confider- ablc violence on Sunday the 0th, after which it moderated, and the weather became fettled, fe- renc and pleufant, particularly when the wind, which was generally the cafe, had its diredlun (torn tne fouth or weftern quarters; by which means our feveral duties were executed pleafuntly and with great cafe. By Sunday the 1 3th, thcfe necellary opera- tions were in fuch a (late of forwardnefs, as to allow t-». pcra- ;.is to iillow 17()l.] norND Tiin world. iqi allow a large party of officers and gentlemen in two boats, acc:ompanlccl by Mr. liroughton in the Chatham's cutter, to attend me on an cxcur- iiun over this fpacious buy, with the hope ofbc- comiui^ acquainted with ibmc of the inliabitants; and it" circumilanccs permitted, to explore the upper part of the northern arm, which by Capt. Cook was called, "No body kisovvs wjiat," and the only part he did not thoroughly examine. On Monday the Mth wc found the ^m in which Captain Cook places Apparent ifland, to be divided into two branches, leaving that land a pcninfula joined to the main land, by a very high, though narrow ridge of mountains. The perpendicular height, and very extraordinary fliapc, of the rocky part fronting the ami, rend-^c it a moll fnigular and majeilic promontory. Mr. Broughton undertook the right hand, or j()uthei:i branch, which he found winding, lirit in a di- rcdion nearly N. E by E. about 3} miles; then E. S. E. about half a league ; and there, in a nor- thern diredion, terminating in a Imall cove. The northern arm we found to run nearly itraight about N. E. for five miles, then turning round to the northward, for half a league further, and end- ing in a fmall cove w ith very lliallov/ water, in a north wcllern direction. The heads of theie arr.-:s, in contoimity with Captain Cook's name of their vfitrance I h avc called So:>i.E ecl-v }:no\vs WHAT li tQ"! A VbYAGt OP DISCOVERY [^Noy, "WHAT. Wc were exceedingly fortunate in hav- ing moft delightful weather for thefc examina- tions, and returned on board in the afternoon of Tuefday the 15th, though not without fome dif- appointment that, after three days excuffion, and landing in many places, particularly in Cafcadcr and Indian coves, which were formerly the rc- fort of the natives, wc no where found any traces' of them, or any circumftance that in the leaft indicated the country being at prefcnt inhabited ; if one or two mifcrabic huts be excepted, whicli the officers of the Chatham met with in the neighbourhood of Facile harbour, but which had not the appearance of having been lately occu- pied. Plcaflint weather ftill continuing, on Wed- nefday the 1 0th 1 took a furvcy of Anchor illand harbour. It appeared to be perfectly fecurc, and may be found convenient, when accident may prevent vcfiels getting into Facile harbour. It has two entrances; that to the north of the Pe- trel iflands is a fair and clear channel, though of great depth ; its general foundings being from 23 to 38 fathoms; in the narrovveft part it is about a cable's length wide, and, I believe, free from any danger; as the fliorcs arc ftccp, with- out any funkcn rocks or ihoals, excepting within the paiTage clofe under the fouth fide of large Petrel idand, where tiiey arc dlfcoverablc by the weeds growing upon them, and are quite out of the "/ ' i r>^W»'>WlJm*' ■"*> "* Tor» lav- ilia- 111 of : dlf- , and fcadc E re- iracc^ leaft )itcd ; i\hicli n the :hbad occu- Wed- • illand , and It may 11*. It he Pe- pu hoi Irom It it IS free th- thui \vi wi \{ Uirge by the out of the 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. I93 the way of its navigation. The other paflage is to the fouthvvard of the Petrel illands ; and as, in all probability, a ftrong northerly wind would alone induce any perfon to make choice of this in preference to Facile harbour, the S. W. point of large Petrel ifland fliould be kept clofe on board, (which may be fafely done) in order to weather the rock that appears above water in the middle of the harbour, and to avoid a funken one of which there is not the lepft indication, and on which there is no greater depth than, twelve feet at low water. Between this funken rock, and the point from off which it lies about three quarters of a cable's length, and nearly in the direction to what I have called Entry Island, are lixteen fathoms. Keeping the rock in the harbour, which is always vifible, in a line with what I have called North Entry Island, will be fufficicnt direcftion, to pafs within the above-mentioned point and the funken rock. This, however, with fome other particulars, is better illuftratcd by the annexed iketch ; which, with one of Facile harbour taken by Mr. Brough- ton, 1 have fubjoined to a copy of Captain Cook'? moft excellent chart of this port, with fuch tri- fling additions as in the courfe of our obfervations we have been able to make : and on this head, I fliall only furth<;r remark, that Anchor Ifland Vol. I. N harbour, I J \b^ J()4 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERV [XOT, harbour, although a very fafc and fccure port, is not a very convenient one to get to fea from, owing to its narrow limits, great depth of water, and the above lunken rock which we difcovercd in its wcftcrn entrance. ij.ry -- ..) .jt ; rui Moft of our bufinefs with the fliore bcinsi finiflied, our rigging overhauled, fails bent, and the fliip ready for fea, with very fine weather and a gentle breeze from S. S. E., on the morn- ing of Friday the 1 8th wc failed out of the cove. The Chatham was not yet in readinefs to depart; in order, however, that wc might be conveni- ently llationed to proceed together when circum- ftanccs fliould admit, I intended to place the fliip abrcaft of Facile harbour; but the breeze failing, and the tide fetting us towards the iflands that lie from it, we were obliged to anchor fooner than I vsiflied in 38 fathoms foft bottom. Five Finger point by compafs bore S. 40 W. ; well point of Anchor ifland S. 12 W. and the fouth j)oint of Parrot ifland N. 53 W. a quarter of a mile diihint. The day was nearly calm, but the next morning brought with it a frefii breeze from tlic fonthward. The Chatham having completed her bufmefs, Hood out into the roadllcad, which obtained the name of Tempest Road, from the itorm llie there rode out on our arrival : but not feeing any probability of getting to fea, Ihe re- .' turned s:or. 3ort, rom, fatcTf> vctcd beUis: it, aud eatlicr moru- e cove, depart; onven'i- circum- thc iliip . faiWns:, nds that - f fooncr Five . ; well ic ibuth tcr of ii , but the czc from mp^ctcd d, which from the : but not ,ihe te- tarncd ]791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 1 93 turned Into Facile harbour. The gale increafed towards noon, but in the evening the weather became delightfully pleafant. • ' ' • • On the morning of Sunday the 20th, about feven o'clock, a frefh breeze from the S. W. fet in, accompanied by an unufually heavy fwell, which giving us reafon to apprehend fome vio* Icnce from the wind in that diredlion, we weighed, ran into Facile harbour, and anchored abreafb of the paiTagc leading out through Parrot and Pi* geon idands, in 38 fathoms loft bottom. This paiTage, though not exceeding a cable's length in width, we found to be a very excellent one, with foundings from nine to live fathoms dole to the fhores. Thefe foundings are on a ridge from ifland to llland, as the water deepened to up- wards of 30 fathoms immediately on either fide. The Chatham was at anchor near us, and both vclfels were conveniently ftationed for proceed- ing to fca on a favorable opportunity prcfenting itfelf. The wind continued to blow very ftrong from the S. W. and brought with it a furf which broke very heavily on the Ihores in the bay ; yet the vefleh rode perfei^ily quiet. On Monday the 2 ill, the Iky became intirely obfcured, with dark gloomy weather, and the wind became variable with much rain. The next morning was per- fectly calm, and although it did not rain, the heavy atmofpherc continued. \Vc were now em- N 2 ployed I'N*'" sar?:; ■71 ^s 1q6 a voyage op di=;covery [no v. plo; ■"'' "a completing our ilock of water, and in procuring wood, fprucc, or rather a fpccics of cyprcfs, and the tea plant, for brewing at fca. Towards noon, a breeze fpringing up from the N. W. both vcffcJs failed out of Dufivy bay. A very heavy fwcll rolled from the S. W. and wcll:- vvard; but having a frelli breeze, by four o'clock Five Finger point bore N. by E. a league diftant. Thus we quitted Duflvy bay, greatly indebted to its moil excellent rcfrcflimcnts, and the falu- - brity of its air. The good cffcdis of a plentiful fupply of iifli, and fpruce beer, were evident in the appearance of every individual in our little focicty. The health of our convalefccnts was pcrfcdly rc-cftablillied, and excepting one with a chronic complaint, and two wounded by cuts in their legs, we had not a man on the furgeon's lift ; though, on the moft trifling occafion of in- difpofition, no perfon was ever permitted to at- tend his duty. Some wild fowl were procured, though they were by no means found in fuch numbers as when the Refolution was here in the yc^r 1773, owing, in all probability, to the dif- ference of the fcafon ; to which, pollibly, is to be afcribed, our being unable to afcertain whe- ther the geefe then left here had propagated. Captain Cook's very excellent defcription of this place precludes any material additions ; and leaves me, as a tranfitory vifitor, little cllc than the * ..^^-•.,, *•> I :ov. 1 in s of fca. 1 the , . A clock ftant. icbtcd ;falu- - :ntitul :nt in r little ts was c with cuts gcon s of in- to at- ocurcd, fuch c in the the dit" is to n w'he- ited. ption of ns; and ;li'c than in y 1791.] ROUND THE WOULD. . K); the power of confirming his judicious remarks and opinions. One circumftance, however, may not be unworthy of notice. Mr. Menzies here found the true winter's bark ; exadly the fame plant as that found at Tierra del Fucgo ; but which efcaped the obfervation of Captain Cook and our botanical gentlemen in 1773: of this, with the antardic birch, flax, and one or two other plants, wx took fpecimens on board, though the period of our reaching England feemed too diltant to entertain hopes of their continuing alive. Captain Cook's recommendation of Facile harbour to veiTels bound to the fouth ward, is high- ly judicious, as it is in all rcfpefts a fafe, com- modious, and convenient flation ; capable of fup- plying every article that can be expeded from this country, without going out of fight of the vefTel : and it is rendered flill more eligible, by our having found fo good an outlet with northerly or N. W. winds, between Pigeon and Parrot iflands; as, in confequence of the high land drawing thofe winds dired:ly down the harbour, the weflern entrance will be found lefs convenient. No time lliould be loft on arriving in this bay, to feek fe- curity in fomc of its harbours : which, as Cap- tain Cook very truly obferves, ** are numerous, " fafe, and convenient." For although the wea- ther we experienced after the ftorm on our arri- val, may juflly be confidered as delightful fum- N 3 mer 108 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [kOK* mcr weather, yet it cannot be denied that the northerly winds blow with incredible fury ; and as they always take the direction of the arms of the bay, they caufe in them, though they are very narrow, a confiderable fea, which, in addition to their great depth of water, render fuch anchoring places neither pleafant nor fecure. I fhould not, however, fuppofc thefe ftorms to be very fre-^ quent, for two rcafons. Firft, during our Hay here, from the 20th of March until the 1 ith of May in the year 17/3, which may be confidered as comprehending part of the winter feafon, we had no gale of wind comparable in point of vio- lence to that which we had lately experienced. This was my fi^th vifit to New Zealand and its neighbourhood ; and although I have certainly jeen much boifterous and tempeftuous weather, I never before contended with fo violent a ftorm. Secondly, the mountains in Anchor ifland, Rcfo- lution ifland, and all thofe of moderate height round the bay (the land of Five P'inger point alone excepted), which on our arrival were per- fe(5lly free from fnow, were after the llorm cO' vercd with it a confiderable way down. Were fuch falls of fnow to happen frequently, it is na- tural to conclude that vegetation would be fe- vcrely checked, and that its productions would not have been found to flourifli, as they certainly 4o in a moll luxuriant manner. A few days fint weather I 17yi.] ROUND THE WORLD. ]()() weather Toon removed the greater part of the ihow ; and that which remained on the high, diilant, barren mountains, which for fomc days pall had been entirely free from clouds, was ob- ferved to be greatly diminiflicd. I lliall conclude our tranfac^lions in Dufkv bay, by noticing the few aftronomical and nautical obfervations that were made in Anchor Ifland harbour. . -■- '.. i:-y i . . . - : . . The badnefs of the weather on our firft arrival, and the fliort time I purpofed to remain, made me conclude that the erection of the obfervatory on fliore would be to little purpofe. The lati- tude of the harbour was found to be one minute fouth pf Captain Cook's calculation, or 45° 4 '>' 30". His determination is, however, moft likely to be corred:, as mine was deduced from one day's obfervation only, with an artificial horizon ; and, having agreed To nearly, any further invef- tigation I deemed unneceflary. Tho mean rcfult of ten fets of altitudes taken between thegth and lOth of November, for af- certaining the longitude of the chronometer, and to form fomc judgment as to its rate of going, were as follows, viz. \ i ■ » r! i >/ , . i, By the Portfmouth rate it placed r Anchor Ifland harbour in longitude lOo'' 42' 23" By the Cape rate 10/ 'ro s. r./ o5' 12" N 4 By J T , ...or 2& Hq" r 39' 18-^ IM ^ I .i 200 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [XOV. ByKlngGeorgethcThird's Sound . ' ' rate — — — iC;" 7' 40'' The true longitude as afligncd to that place by Captain Cook 166* 15' 54" Makes the Portfmouth rate eaft of the truth — — Cape rate ditto — — KingGeorge the Third's Sound ditto Mr. Arnold's watch on board the Chatham gave the longitude of Fa- cile harbour, according to the Cape rate - —* .— — l65M8'52'^ Efteeming the true longitude of Anchor Ifland harbour to be 1660 15' 54", the chronometer vs'as faft of mean time at Greenwich on the 1 6th at noon 26'' 34"; whence it appeared, that it had gone nearly at mean time fince leaving King George the Third's found, and that its having differed from Captain Cook's affigncd longitude of Van Dieman's land was occafioned by its not having gained at the rate we allowed, and of courfe the longitude of King George the Third's Sound was not wrong. By the reliilt of our ob- fcrvations here, it gained on an average about 3" per day, which error I fhall allow, until a bet^ ter opportunity of afcertaining its rate may offer. The variation of the magnetic needle, obferved on fliore by three different compaiTes in 1 8 fets ^^ of "J 17()1.] i;OUND THE WORLD. 001 of azimuths, varied from 11° 17' to 17" 20', the mean refult of which was H° 55^ 45" caft vari- ation. The vertical inclination of the fouth point of the magnetic needle on board was found to be— . Marked end North, face Eaft, Ditto Ditto Ditto TrkO 0' 3' North, face Well, Og 8 South, face Eaft, 70 5 South, face Weft, Oy 35 Mean inclination of the fouth ' point of the dipping needle Cq 43 As we increafed our diftance from the land, the N. W. wind increafed alfo. A fvvcll at this time coming very heavily from the S. W. made me apprehenfive the wind would Ihift round, and blow hard in that dirc<^ion. The ftatc of the mercury in the barometer, the gloominefs of the weather, and every other appearance of the even- ing, indicated more wind from the S. W. than would be pleafimt to be caught in on this dreary coaft : we therefore fteercd fouth, under as much fail as we could carry, and made the necefTary fignals to the Chatham for the like purpofe. Our lofty canvafs was, however, fpread a very fhort; time before it blew fo hard a gale, that we were under the neccffity of clofe reefing the topfails, getting down the top-gallant yards, and ftriking the mafts. The night was extremely dark; ■.vhich, by ten, prevented our feeing the Chat- ham, I ' t I 202 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVFlflV [XOV. ham. The wind was now at N. N. VV. very hap- pily not on the fliorc, as by three in the morning of Wcdnefday the 23d its increafcd violence ob- liged us to furl the topfails. At this moment wc were alarmed by finding; lix Icct water in the hold, which tlic Ihip t'clt exccflively, labouring much by being prclled down forward with that weight of water. This very unpleafant circum- ftancc obliged us to feud dircdly before the wind and fea, for the purpofe of freeing the fliip ; when, by receiving much water in the walle, the caiks of beer and water flowed upon deck, broke from their fecurities and were ftovc to pieces. The raufe of fo much v\ ater in ti^ hold, at lirll a matter of great furprize, was foon ac- counted for. The hand jnmips had been, c'ld wen.' Irill, choakcd ; which induced tl)H f^rpen- tcr to believe, that bccaufc liicy difcharged no water tlure was none in the fnip. This, in all probability liad ^(ncrned his cxumination all the latter part of the time we tiad been in port, and produced an accumulation that niight have been attended with the moft reri(;us confcquenccs, had not one of the (|uarter-mafrers heard in the tier, the vvHter rudiinir about in the hold. The hand pumps were foon in order ; and, to relieve the lliip as loon as poliiblc, the crofs piece of the bits was linihippcd, the launch got forward, and vvilh the chain pumps the ycffel by fcvcn o'clock . .': was I ov. ap- pb- t wc the iring that :um- vvind flVip ; deck, ive to : hold, )n ac- n, t;'"id wpcn- iicd no in all all the rt, and V c been :cs, had he tier, ic hand ;vc the of the ird, and o'clock was 1791.] ROUND TlIK WORI.T). 203 was made perledly dry. The gale had now iii- crealed to a moll furious llorm, nearly equal to that vvc had experienced in Duiky hay. The torrents of rain which fell, mixing with the fca raifed by the violent flurries of the wind, kept us fo much in darknefs that we could not perceive any thing at the diftance of an hundred yards in any dlrcdion; nor were we able to relume cur Southwardly courfe ; the wind and fea obliging us to ftccr S. S. E. or right bcffnc the ll:orm. Wc had not feen the Chatham fuice eleven o'clock the preceding evening, but concluding flic would ftand on if able topurihc a ibuthwardly courfe, I did not wifli to bring to for her ; particularly, as the wind was fuch as would ibon i'ct us clear of the coaft of New Zealand, which was doubtleis a very defirable object:. Towards nine in the forenoon of Thurfdny the 24th the ftorm began to abate ; at ten the wind veered round to the W. S. W.; the rain ccafcd, and the atmofphere became clear, but the ('hatham was not to be difcovered in any direc- tion. There was, however, great probability of her being to windward ; and as I was flill apprc- henfivc of a S. W. gale before we fliould be clear of this coaft, I determined to lofe no time in getting far enough to the fouthward to enable )is to fail round the land and the Traps with fuch a Wind, As Matavai bay in Otahcite was the next H ' \ n I' / 'if' ill I r;f hi r I ■. s '204 A VOYAGE OF Df?COVKnV [n6V. next appointed rrnriezvoiis, I concluded Mr. Broughton would do the lame, ami make the heft of his way with the Chatham to that [)ort. The malnfail and clofc-rcclcd t^spfails (all the fail the fhip would bear) were now fet, and keep- ing the wind on the beam, wc llccred S. S. E.; when about eleven o'cloc k, to our great aftonifh- mcnt, land was difcovcrcd, bearing caft four or five Icasfues diilant. We knew of no land nearer than the fouth cape of New Zealand ; and, by the courfes we had fleered there was fcarccly a pofTibility of our being within Icfs than 18 or 20 leagues of the Cape : but being flattered with the profped of a meridional obl'ervation for the lati- tu'dc, our dccillon was poflponed until thatfhould be afcertained. Noon broui^ht us nearer the land, which by compafs bore from N. E.. by E. to E. N. E. at the diflancc of three or four Icajrues only. By a tolerably good obfcrvation in lati- tude -48' 5' it was clearly proved, that this land coidd not, from its fituution, be any part of New Zealand, as it was nearly three fourths of a dc- iirec to the Ibuthward of the mofl fouthern pro- montory of that country. Our longitude by the chronometer, was at this time 160^4'; which fiiuation was 18^ more ibuth, and 13' more cafl", than the log gave. The weather, though very hazy, being fomething dearer than before noon, we beheld, as we pailcd this l^nd ut the diflancc i- . . of i-j lati- land New a dc- pro- r the \hich caft, very noon, lance of 17pl.] novN-7) THF. woRru. a05 ot't\vo or three leagues, the Tea break iii'i; upon its fliorcs with qrcat violence, and discovered it to be compofed ot* a duller of feven crairgy iflands, extending about fix miles in a direction N. 70 E. and S. 70 W. They appeared deftitute of ver- dure, and it is more than probable they never produce any. The largeft, which is the north- eaflcrnmoll, I fliould fuppofe to be in extent equal to all the reft; it is about three leagues in circuit, fnfficiently elevated to be feen in clear weather eight or nine leagues oii', and is fituated in latitude 18" 3^ longitude lOti'' 2o'. The lati- tude was afcertained by three fexlants which nearly agreed ; and the longitude reduced by the chronometer from Dufl;y bay, by three fets of altitudes in the afternoon ; viz. one fet before we paifed its meridian ; another under it ; the third after we had pafled it. As thefe Severally correfpondcd within a mere trifle, when reduced to the iiimc point, 1 fhould prcfume that the lon- gitude above Itated is not likely to be materially incorrect. It was matter of fome furprize how thefe iflands could have cfcaped the attention of Captain Cook ; but on laying them down in his chart of New Zealand, I found his tracks had not at anv time reached within at leaft ten leaiiiues of them. From the fouth cape they bear S. 40 W. 19 leagues, and from the fouthernmoft part of tlic Traps S. 02 1 \V. 20 leagues diilant. Thele iilands, 1 I I! f 20C> A VOYAGF, OP DISCOVERY f^OV. il'luncls, or ratlicr rocks, ior they appeared per- ic6l\\ ilcril, I have named, on account of their fituation, and the ibrt ct' weather there is great rcafon to cxpcd in their vicinity. The Sxahes ; as being very likely to draw the unguarded ma- riner into alarming difficulties. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the Snares bore by compafs N. 30 W. five or fix leagues diftant. At day-light the next morning, Friday the 2oth, we hauled to the N. E. By noon, the gale had fufliciently mo- derated to admit the fpreading of all our canvafs ; at noon the obferved latitude was -18^ 18', lon- gitude iGq° 33'. I cannot avoid here mention- ing the concern I felt in beholding the laft of our flieep thrown overboard; the race of ani« mals of the brute creation on board the Difco- very, had certainly been very ill fated ; out of thirty Ihecp taken on board at Portfmouth, no more than two came to the table, the reft died before we reached the equator ; nor were \vc much more fortunate in the like number of we- thers received at the Cape; two thirds of thefe, with fcven ewes and fix ram?, intended as pre- fents to our friends in the South Sea iflands, were at this time dead ; notwithftandlng they were all taken on board in exceedingly high condition, and had neither wanted care, plenty of whole- fome food, nor I'.ood lodging. With a plealant favorable gale ; fomctimes in the l^Ql.] HOUND THE WORLD. 207 the N. W. but chiefly from the S. W. quarter, and with tolerably fine weather, we llood to the E. N. E.; and made fuch progrefs, that by noon on the 8th of December we had reached the lati- tude of 37" 'if, longitude 207^ \A\ The wind veered round to the north with a moderate breeze, attended by dark gloomy weather and fome rain. On Saturday the 10th we were fur- rounded by a very thick fog, which, with much rain at intervals, continued until Tuefday the 1 3th; when having a fine breeze at S. S. W. the fog cleared away, but it ftill remained very cloudy. We were however enabled to afcertain our fitua- tion for the firft time fmce the 8th, to be in lati- tude 30^ 13', longitude 214° 33', varying fmcc that day 53' more to the north, and 28^ more to the call, than was fliewn by the log. We llood to the north, under all the fail wc could fpread, but were not futi'ercd long to purfuc this courfc. In the latitude of 31" -13^ longitude 214' 1 \\ at noon on Thurfvlay the K"th the w^ind veered round, and fettled between the N. E. and N. N. E. obliging us ply w ith a moderate breeze to the northward ; in doins; which fb little was gained, that on Saturday the 1 7th we had only reached the latitude of 3 I" S', longitude 21 4^34'. The wind now blew a fredi gale from the north, the topfiiils were reefed, the weather was very dark, gloomy, and exccilivcly fultry, with con- tinued i 106 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [dEC. tinucd lightning and thunder at Ibme diftance, until the morning, when the wind died away, andinitsftead, extremely vivid forked lightning, with inceiTant peals of thunder, accompanied by torrents of rain, attended us, without intermif- fion, until noon of Sunday the 18th. The thun- der and lightning then ceafed, but the rain ftili continued ; and, contrary to our expectation, the wind refumed its N. N. E. diredion, and blew fo hard as to make the flriking our top- gallant yards ncccfTary. A remarkably fmooth fea, with heavy, damp, clofe, cloudy weather, and little alteration in the wind, attended us until Tucfday the 20th; it then moderated, and the top-gallant fails were fpread. Since the 1 7th we had not obtained an ^ ' ■ • re6l obfcrvations ; but, by our reckoning, the la- titude at noon was 30^^ i;^ longitude 215" 22^ Although the wind from the north and N. N. E. was attended with fudden and violent flurries, yet the fea continued fmooth, which indicated, that land, probably of fome extent, exifted not very far dillant in that dircdion. After noon, we Hood to the caftward about four leagues : when, fuddenly, a very heavy fwell was met from N. N. E. which v.as foon followed by fuch an increafe of wind from that quarter, as reduced us to our clofe-recfed topfails. This gale, which proved the breaking up of the northerly wind, was la- City .E. ries, ted, not on, es : om an ced ich nd, was 17Q1.] ROuND THE WORLD. 209 was of fhort duration : in the evening it mode- rated, and veered round by the eaft to the S. S. W . We made all fail to the north by weft ; but it was not until the wind became a very frefli breeze, that we were enabled to fteer that courfe againft the northerly fwell, which drove the fhip aftern. This evening there were feveral fmall white tern hovering about the Ihip, fcemingly with great inclination to alight on board. On the morning of Wednefday the 2 1 ft, the head fca had for the moft part fubfided, and the wind feemed to have fettled in the fouthern quarter : and blowing a gentle breeze with very pleafant weather, enabled me to obtain fix fets of lunar diftanccs, whofe mean refult reduced to noon gave the longitude 215° 22' 45". The chrono- meter, by the laft rate ihewed 215° 16' 45", the latitude was 29" 15'; which was, at this time, 6' further north than we expeded. We continued our route to the northward ; which, with a gentle gale at S. S. E. and plea- fant weather, brought us, by day-ligbtonThurf- day the 22d, in fight of land, bearing by compafs N. E. I N. • At firft it appeared like three fmall high iflands, the cafternmoft much refembling a velTcl under fail. This land being at a confider- able diftance from the tracks of former navigators, I fteered for it, in order to be fatisficd of its ex- tent, produdions, and other circumftances wor- VoL. I. O thy -a rf#i»Mili«K,-».^_ ..^. S*; U H it:: ^;:. ! 310' A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEIIY [lEC thy obfervation. In the forenoon, eight fets of l«nar diftances were obtained : which, as before, nearly correfponding with each other, gave, by their mean refult, when reduced to noon, 215^ 42^ 40", thefe, with thofc taken the preceding day, comprehending ] i fcts of diftances, gave :lir}° 3(y. The hititude, by feveral fcxtants, was determined to be 27° Si''. ' • Since feeing the land in the morning, we had run eleven leagues ; and had approached it fufficiently near to perceive, that all we had at firft feen was united. It now bore, by compafs, from N. 29 E. to N. 43 E. about five leagues diftant, with a fmall illand lying off its eaftern fide N. 45 E. - -. ^ ■•' ■■ '' '■'■ ' '. '. .'■ AlTifted by a gentle S. E. gale, with fine plea- i^nt weather, at three in the afternoon we were within about a league of the fnore; yet no bot- tom was to be gained at the depth of 180 fa- thoms. Several canoes came off to the lliip, and all means were nfed to invite tliem on board. Tlicy declined our entreaties, l)ut fecmed very folicitous that we fliould accept their invitations to land : which they fignificd by waving their paddles towards the coaft, and by defiring us, in. the language of the Great South-Sea nation, to go nearer to tlie fiiorc. We bore away with that intent, but foon again brought to, .on cbferving that two or three canoes were paddlinf.: in i>;reat - 1 . . ' haft-.: of )rc, by ling rave was , we Lcd it ad at ipafs, lagucs- afteriv f ■, ' ' I . i • • pka- wcrc o bot- 80 fa- ), and board, d very tations ■r tbcir il us, l"'^- ion, to ItUthat >fcrvin^; m ixreat huft' i/Ql.j ROUND THE WOULD. 211 liafte towards the ihlp. After fome perfuafioni four men in one of the canoes came near enough to receive fome prefents, which feemcd to pleafc them exceedingly; and though their countrymen appeared to rebuke them for their railinefs, the example was ihortly followed by feveral others. It was not, however, without ihewins: every de- monftration of friendfhip, that any could be pre- vailed upon to come on board, until at length, the man who had brought about this intercourfe feemed determined to eftablifli it, by complying with our deiires. On his entering the Ihip, he trembled and was much agitated ; apprehenfion, aftonifhment, and admiration, equally appearing at the fame Inftant ; and though, on his being made welcome after the ufual failiion, and prc- fcntcd with a fmall iron adz, his countenance became more fcrene and cheerful, yet he ftlll ap- peared In a ftate of great anxiety. He foon com- municated his reception and treatment to his fur- rounding countrymen; and v;c fliortly had as many vlfitors as it was plcafant to entertain. They all feemed perfcdly v,ell acquainted with the ufes to which they could apply Iron, and how to eftlmate its vtduc amongft themfelvcs ; as alfo the manner In which it was regarded by Euro- peans. They made no fcruplc, even with fome force, to take articles of iron out of our hands; and, in lieu of them, with jrrcat courtcfv and ad- t_ ft () 2 . dn is • 1. *#»f '♦-—-—***»,, 212 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY L-, f. drefs prefcntcd, in return, feme few fifli, fifliing- liooks, lines, and other trifles, which they Iccmcd to wifh ihould be accepted as prefents, and not received in exchange. Looking-glaflcs, beads, and other trinkets of Httle importance, at firft attraded their attention, and were gladly accept- ed ; but no fooner did they difcover that articles made of iron were common amonglt us, than they refufed all other prefents, and wanted to barter every other gift for iron. I could not prevail on any of them to accept a few medals. Their vifit fcemed prompted only by curiofity, as they were completely unarmed, and brought with them (except the few fifh, &c.) neither ar- ticles of food, nor manufad.ure. A few fpeais, and a club or two, were feen in one or two of the ca- noes only ; two or three indifferent flings for ftones were alfo noticed ; with which they parted without the leaft reluctance. -• We lay to until five o'clock in the hope of obtaining the name of this illand, or of any other ■which might exift in its neighbourhood. Thcfc people were evidently of the Great South-Sea nation ; Ipcaking, wdth fome little difference of dialeas not my intention to (lop rit Oparo, no delay was occafioncd by examining for an- chorage, which probably may be found on both fides of its N. W. point. To the fouthward of tliat point is a fmall bay with a flonv beach, bay 03 throi , it is natural to conclude that tlie luhabiL'.ints arc ^cry'frt- quently Uiloat, and to infer Irom this clrcum- ilancc that the iliores, and not thofe fortified hills which appeared to be in the .center of the ■ O A ifland. I •i' I -V, ft. %*: I ; ii H t mi k'5 0.16 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [deC. ifland, would be preferred for their general rcfi- dence. We law about thirty double and fmglc canoes, though mod of them were of the double fort : the fnigle canoes were fupported by an outricsrcr on one fide, and all built much after the falhionof the Society Iflands, without having their very high ftcrns, though the Herns of fome cf thcfe were confiderably elevated ; and their bows were not without fome little ornament. They were very neatly conftrudled, though the narrowed canoes I ever faw. When it is con- fidered that the builders of them arc nearly defti- tute of iron, and poiTcfled of very few imple- ments of that valuable metal ; and when the mifcrable tools they have generally recourfe to for fuch operations are regarded, the mind is tilled with admiration at their ingenuity, and peri'cver- ing induftry. The ifland did not appear to atford any large timber ; the broadeft planks of which the canoes were made, not exceeding twelve inches, confirmed us in this opinion, as they were probably cut out of the largeft trees. Some of the ftouteft double canoes accommodated from twenty-five to thirty men, of whom, on a mode- rate computation, three hundred were fuppofed to have been fcen near the fliip. Thcfe were all adults, end apparently none exceeding a middlc- agc ; fo that the total number of inhabitants on the ifland can hardly be cftimatcd at lefs than fifteen 17pl.3 ROUND THE WORLD. 21/ fifteen hundred. In this rcfpc6l it muft be coii- Tidcred prolific, notwithftanding its uncultivated appearance. The natives, however, appeared to be exceedingly well fed, of middling ftature, ex- tremely well made ; and in general, their coun- tenances were open, cheerful, and ilrongly mark- ed witli Indications of hofpitality. They were all, to a man, very follcltous that fome of us fliould accompany them to the fliore ; and thofe who laft quitted the fliip, endeavoured with all their powers of perfuafion, and fome efforts of com- pulfion, to cffc(fl their purpoi'e. On their depar- ture they took hold of the hand of every one near them, with a view to get them into their canoe. They all had their hair cut Ihort ; and, excepting a wreath made of a broad long-leaved green plant, worn by fome about the waill, they were intirely without clothing. Although the cuftom of ta- towing prevails i'o generally with all the iflanders of this ocean, thcfe people were dellitute of any fuch marks. Independent of the protcdlon their fortified retreats may afford, it did not appear that they were fubjciil to much hoilility, as fcarcely any fears from wounds or other marks of violence were obi'erved on their bodies. Their elevated fortified places (for certainly they had every ap- pearance of being fuch) led fome of us to con- jedure, that they were frequently annoyed by troublefome '.] .. 5^; in .^' i. i "il V t >\ I l\ m W ^18 A VOYAGE OP DiscovrriY [dec. troublcfomc ivjighbours from fomc other illands not tar diilant. But, as the canoes wc favv were not even lurnlihcd with fails, nor had any ap- pearance of having been ever equipped for an ex- pedition beyond their own roait, it may i''afon- ably be inferred, that they were not accuftomcd to voyages of any length. Yet, on the other hand, when the fmall extent of their ifiand is taken into confideration, it is hard to reconcile that it is not the fear of foreign enemies, but the apprehenfion of domefhic iniurredion, that has induced the laborious conilruClion of their forti- fied retreats ; and as to the S. E. of this illand there is an exteniivc fpace in the ocean hitherto but little frequented ; it is not improbable that fomc iilands may cxill there, the inhabitants of which may occalionally make unfriendly vifits to theie people. . - ■. . ■ ■' Leaving Oparo, v\c had plcafant weather with a gentle breeze from the S. 1'^. At eight in the morning of Friday the 2 3d, {he. idand was Hill vifiblc from the deck, bearing by compafs S. S. E. 2 E./at the diftance of J .s leagues. The biee^x* between E. and S. E. carried us rajiidly to the N. N. W. and brought r.s on the cvcninf*; of San- day the 25th into the vicinity of fomc low iilands difcovcred by Captain Carteret, and named the Duke of GloucefLcr's iflands. The CNcniiiii; was dark and tdoomv, and nut c!iL;ofin<.'; t j pais tlic fpot r VN itli in the las Hill Is o. i^* brcci'c Ito the f SLUi- iikmds cd the .V was a\'i th.c fpot J7f)l.] rOUXD THR WORLD. 1]() fpot afilvrned to tlicm in the night, wc continued to make lliort trips under our top-fails, until day- lifiht ; after v\hich we again rcfiimed our courlc. Our latitude at noon of Monday the 20th was ]()" 58', lonjz'tude 211" At)', wdiich was c/ further fouth, and 'JlV further well, than was fliewn by the locr. At about 1^33' to the weft of the fitua- tion of the Duke of Glouceftcr's illands accord- ing to Cuptairi Carteret, we paiTed their latitude, without feeing any appear .ice of land. Plaviivi; now a iVedi gale :rt eaO, w\ entertained thepleaf- ing hope of reaching Otaheitc the next day ; this flattering prolocd vjs of f^ort duration. To- wards the evening, tlw: wi . veered to the N. E. and its violence obliged us to cloit reef the top- fails. The gale w IS attended v\ith Acrv heavy f({ua!Is, and a torrent of rain continued almoffc without internidiion until the e\eninir of Wed- nefday tho 28th, when it ccafcd, and the wind ftill at N. E. becair.c moderate. By {landing on to the N. N. W. day-light the next morning, ThurfJay the 29th, prefented us with a view, of Mi.tavai, "v Olhaburgh illand, at the di (lance of icven or c. ii: 'leagues, bearing by compafs N. E. by E. 0;u' co-.irle \\as immediately fliaped for OLah-'itc, the fouth point of which was vifiblc by elj\ en o'clock, Iicaring \:>y compafs S./OVV. eight or nine lea<'\ies ciiihmt. The w ind comino; to the north pre^■cntcd our reaching iMatavai bay, and obliged ' VB .n< il ^ ) ! 'I I" ' '[?i ; ! * i V I i 210 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY DEC. obliged us to ply to windward during the night. In the morning of Friday the 30th, with a gentle breeze from the N. E. wc flood for Matavai under all the fail we could fpread. About eight o'clock, a canoe came alongfide with two pigs and fome vegetables ; a prefent from a lifter of Otoo, refiding in that part of the ifland of which •we were then abreaft. The natives informed me that we had been expedcd, and that they had been looking out for us two days, in confcqucnce of information they fald they had received from an Englifli veflel, then at anchor in Matavai bay; and their defcription of her being pcrfedly intel- ligible, I did not hcfitatc to believe it was the Chatham, of which we fiiortly experienced the happinefs of being convinced. Mr. Broughton ibon viiited us, and brought with him an early and acceptable fupply of the excellent productions of this fertile country. About ten, we anchored in Matavai bay. Our mutual gratulations on meeting were extremely heightened, by receiving and communicating the happy tidings, that every individual compofing the focicty of each veilel was in a moft perfei^ ftate of health. Mr. Brough- ton had, fmce his arri\ai, received repeated marks of friendlliip and attention from the good people of the ifland. Having deemed it expedient to cftablifti tSe following regulations on board the Difcovery, I delivered a copy of thcin to Mr. Broughton, (. \1«I lark 1791.]! ROUND THE WORLD. 221 Broughton, and diredled that the rules might be ftriftly obferved and attended to on board the Chatham ; after which, Mr. Broughton prefented me with a narrative of his proceedings during the time of our reparation. Rules and Orders for the guidance and condu . ; . r Laftly, The ilime penalty will be inflidled on every perfon, who lliall be found to embezzle, or be concerned in embezzling, or offering to trade with, any part of the fliips or boats ftores, furni- ture, &c. &c. be thefe of what nature focver. (liven on board his Majcfty's Hoop Difco- • • ' very, at fea, the 25 th of December, ] 7y l .■ -:' .:! « ,■•''«- ' (Signed) ' '; *;.:<■ '^ .' ;? .^-•' GEOUGE VANCOUVER. ,.. !>;' ^~1 l/'i ^!'-* I ij- I J u ; iiv jloft .jH ■r!. ot to(T '--.vr ■;■■/. ny')}(l !t i ■ ..'•' '••) mB 1^111:1 •>(')•/■/ CHAn'I'R w. .^t^ OF DlSCOVti.. L-- CHAPTER V. Mr. Brought on* s Narrativet from the Time of his Separation^ to his being joined hy the Difcovery at Otaheite'y with Jome Account of Qliatham Iflandy and other IJlands difcovered on his Paf- THE wood we had received in Facile harbour, (on Tuefday the 22d of November) with the fpruce-becr and water upon deck, had brought the veiTel fo much by the head, that, together with the high fea now running, obliged us to de- viate from our fouthwardly courfe and keep be- fore the ftorm, which raged with great violence ; and notwithftanding every precaution a wave ftruck our Hern, about fix o'clock on Wcdncfday morning, walhcd away the jolly boat, and fat us all afloat upon deck. Having, about nine, run by eftimation to the fouth of the Traps, to pre- vent our flilpping fo much water, I brought to, under a reefed tr} Tail, and fore ftayfall. By noon, the gale had confiderably abated, the fca fubfided, and the horizon became tolerably clear ; but the Difcovery was not to be {i:Qn in any direction. After duly weighing all circumilanccs fmcc the .'i • commence- 1791.] ' BOUND THE WORLD. 225 commencehient of the gale, our fcparatlon from the Difcovery appeared now complete ; and the chance of our meeting again until our arrival at our next rendezvous in Otaheite, feemed little in cur favor. About two in the afternoon, land was dif- covercd from the deck, appearing like a high ifland, bearing by compafs S. S. E. three or four leagues diftant ; about an hour afterwards, we had fight of more land lying to the foutluvard and detached from the former ; our utmoil en- deavours were ufed to weather this land, but finding it impradicable, we bore up for a pafllige between the high ifland and the detached land, which was found to be compofed of a clufler of fmall iflets and rocks, greater in extent tliough about the height of the Needles ; their tops or ridges are much broken ; and from the high ifland bore by compafs N. E. and S. W. forming a palTage three miles wide ; about one third ot the pallage over, on the fouthern fide, lies a fmall black rock jufl above water ; on all thefc rocks and iflets the fea broke with great violence. In this palTage we had a confulcd irregular Iwell, with the appearance of broken water ; large bunches of fea-wecd were obferved, and the whole furtace was covered with birds of a blac]:lfli colour. The N. E. part of the ifland in the even- ing, bore by compafs north ; the S. W. part, N. Vol. I. F * W. bv -ii 0' ! '1 ! ; I KW*- fuAtni^^-^ — I; ) V \ I i 1 ' ^;' / 226 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [deC. W. by N. ; the paflage N. W. ; and the rocky iflcts from N. \V. by W. to W. by N. between two and three leagues diftant : in this fituation we had no bottom at the depth of 60 and 80 fa- thoms. Some parts of the ifland prefented a very barren appearance, not unHke the S. W. fide of Portland, compofed of whitilh rocky chffs. The rocky iflets are five in number, fome of which wore a pyramidical form. On account of the hazinefs in the atmofphere, the north-eaft- ernmoft part of the ifland w\is feen fo very indif- tindly, that its extent could not be afcertained- We had no reafon to fuppofe it inhabited, and its dcfolate appearance made that very impro- bable. This ifland, in honor of Captain Knight of the navy, I named Knight's Island. Its fouth point lies in the latitude of 48° 15', longi- tude 1 60° 44'', afcertained by the watch the lall time the bearings were taken, allowing its error to be 30' weft, as determined at DulTcy bay. Knight's ifland, fo far as we could fee of its ex- tent, and the rocky iflets, lie in the diredion of N. E. by E. i E. and S. W. by W. i W. allow- ing a pomt and a half variation eaft : they extend about four leagues. In the morning of Thurfday the 24th, with a fine wcftwardly gale, we altered our courfe and made all fall to the N. E. The wind which varied in point of force, veered gradually round by Its Igl- lall error bay. s ex- on of lUow- Ltend with fe and which round by ^791'] ROUND THE WORLD. 217 by the north. On Satvirday the 2Gth our lati- tude was 40° 43', longitude 173^30'. In the evening the wind fliifted fuddehly to the S. W. and blew with fuch violence, that ftriking our topgallant mails and yards became neceiTary. A remarkably heavy following fca, kept the vef- fcl conftantly under water ; but the gale was at- tended with clear weather. At noon on Sunday the 2/th our latitude by obfervation was 45° 54^ longitude by account 1/0° 13'. The gale now moderated, which permitted us again to rcfume our N. E. courfc, with a fine breeze between weft and N. W. Early in the morning of Mon- day the 2Qth, low land was difcovered, bearing by compafs from N. E. to E. N. E. ; and being then in 40 fathoms water, we brought to until day-break. About four o'clock we had 38 fa- thoms, bottom offandand broken iliells, when the N. W. point of this land, which is low, bore by compafs S. 7 E. about three leagues diftant, and which, after the man who fortunately faw it from the fore yard, I named PoixT Alison; a re- markably rugged rocky mountain that obtained the name of Mount Patterson S. OoE. ; a fugar-loaf hill S. 84 E. ; and the extreme point to the eaftward, which formed an abrupt cape, N. 7j E. Two iflands N. 3 E. to N. 5 E. two or three leagues diftant. The interior land was of a moderate height, rifmg gradually, and form- P2 ing -n /w «e=;.'' 229 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVKUY ' [dEC» ing fcvcral peaked hills, which at a diftance have the appearance of iilands. From point Allfon to mount Patterfon the Ihore is low, and covered with wood ; from thence to the above cape was a continued white beach, on which fome fandy clifls, and black rocks were interfpcrfcd, appa- rently detached from the fliore. To the eailward of tliefe rocks, between them and a flat project- ing point, the land feemed to form a bay open to the weftward. From this point to the above cape, a diltancc of about two miles, the cliffs arc covered witii wood and coarfe grafs. Thelc clitTs are of moderate height, compofed of a red- diili clay, mixed with black rocks. Several large black rocks lie off point Allfon, and the cape, ex- tending to a little diltancc ; and as we paffed within about half a mile of the fliorc, the depth of water was 1 1 fathoms, broken fliells, and fandy bottom. This cape forms a confpicuous head- land, and is the northernmoft part of the ifland ; I called it Cai'e You^'G ; it lies in latitude -13" -18', longitude ISS'^li'. The above two iflands lie V ery near each other ; to the eailward of them lies a fmall rock, apparently conneded, though r.t no great diftance, by a reef; another rock fomcwhat larger is iituated between them. They are of no great height ; (iat top with perpendi- cular fides, compoled intirely of rocks, and much frequented by birds of different kinds. Thefe, :^ai .: ' which .- iS- Vj t7<)lO nOUND THE WORLD. 'i'lg which from their rcrcmblancc to each other, I called The Two Sisteks, are In latitude 43° -U^, longitude 132'^ 4{/ ; and bear, by compafs, frotii Cape Young N. 50 W. four hagnes diftant. We fleered {rum cape Young E. by N. keeping be^. tvvecn tv\() and three miles from the coall, with regular foundin<»;s from 25 to 22 fathoms. The fliore is a continued white fandv beach, on wliicli the furf ran very high. Some high land, rifnig gradually from the beach and covered with wood, extends about four miles to the cafcvvard of the cape. After pafiing this land, vve opened the fcveral hills over the low land we juid i'ccn in tlic morning, and could difccrn that many of them were covered like our heaths in England, but deftitute of trees. Th.e woods in fome fpots had the appearance of being clctU'cd, and in ic- veral places between the hills fraoke was obferved. The beach is interrupted at unequal diilanccs by projc(^Vmg rocky points covered with wood. Over the banks of fand were fccn a ranire of retired hills at a confiderable dillance, in the direclioii of the coaft. After failing about 10 leagues, wc came abrcafl: of a fmall , (Imdy bay. Water was feen over the beavh, afid the conn try had tlic appearance cf being very plcafant. ' With our glalfe* we perceived fonic people liauling up a canoe, and fevcral others; behind the rocks in th^ bay. Fe of our intention to r.ccompany them on the f>Li:cr (ide of the bay. Fourteen only followed, the reft remained at the Inc. Thole who had not ir. "m Had lied cd, ling Ithc cd, had Inot 1791.] nouM) THE wor.Lt). 237 not fpears fubftitutcd the drift wood on the beach for their weapons ; }et as our party confiftcd of nine, all well armed, we entertained no fear for our jyjrfonal fafety, efpecially as every thing had been ftudioufly avoided that we imagined might give them oli'ence, and the various prefcnts they had received had apparently purchafed their good opinion and friendlhip, until now that we had reafon to believe the contrary by their providing thcmfelves with bludgeons. Having walked about half round the bay \\ c arrived at the fpot behind which, from the maft head, inland water ^had been feen. As v.e proceeded up the beach we found it to be a large flieet of water, which took a weflern direction round a hill that pre- vented our feeing its extent. At the upper end of this lake, the country appeared very plcafant, and level. The water feemed of a rcddilh colour and was brackilh, which was moft probably occa- i:oncd by the fait water oozing through the beach, which I:" .his place is -j.o; more t'lian twentv vards wiu;- ; or by its ha\in;:; fome commv.nica- tion with ili<; lea to the \\eftwar(l, which we did not perce: \e. V/e tried to explain to the natives who i[.\{ attended u->, that tb.c w\ater was not fit to drink, and then returned to th.c lea fide; when, abrcall of the boat, they became verv cla- morous, talked extremely loud to cachx other, and divided fo as nearly to furround us. A voun;- man p I I i I I ll/ '< < } , ' I I '233 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY fOEC. man fcruttcd towards me in a very menacing at- titude ; he diftortcd his pcrfon, turned up his eyes, made liidcous faces, and created a wonderful fiercenefs in his appearance by his geftures. On pointing my double-barrelled gun towards him he delillcd. Their hoflilc intentions were now too evident to be miftakcn, and therefore, to avoid the ncccffity of reforting to extremities, the boat was immediately ordered in to take us on board. During this interval, although we were ftridly on our guard, they began their attack, and before the boat could get in, to avoid being knocked down I was rcludantly compelled to fire one barrel, which being loaded with fmall fliot, I was in hopes might intimidate without materially wounding thcni, and that we fliould be futlered to embark without further molefta- tion. Unfortunately, I was difappolnted in this hope. Mr. Johndon received a blow upon his muikct with fuch force from an unwieldy club, that it fell to the ground, but before his oppo- nent could pick it up, Mr. Johnfton had time to recover his pofition, and he was obliged to fire on the blow being again attempted. A maune and feaman near him, were, under fmillar cir- cumftanccs forced into the water, but not before they had alfo, juftified alone by felf-prefervation, fired their pieces without orders. The gentle- man having charge of the boat feeing us much prcfTed \,\ iiMi ^ i ^ 179'0 ROUND THE WOULD. ISQ preflcd by the natives, and obliged to retreat, fired at this inftant alfo, on which they fled. I ordered the firing inftantly to ceafe, and was highly gratified to fee them depart apparently unhurt. The happinefs I enjoyed in this reflec- tion was of fliort duration, one man was difco- vered to have fallen ; and I am concerned to add, was found lifclefs, a ball having broken his arm and pafi.ed through his heiirt. We immediately repaired towards the boat, but the furf not per- mitting her to come near enough, we were fi;ill midcr the ncceffity of walking to the place from whence we had originally intended to embark. As we retired, we perceived one of the natives return from the woods, whither all had retreated, and placing himfclf by the deceafed, he was dif- tindly heard in a fort of difmal howl to utter his lamentations. As we approached our firfi: landing place we faw no figns of habitations, although women and children were fuppofed to have been looking at us from the woods, whilfi: talking to the natives on our arrival. On tracing fome of the foot- paths, nothing was difcovered but great numbers of car flic! Is, and recefies formed in the fame manner with a fingic pallifadc as thofe fcen on our firlt landing. VVe diftributed amongfl the canoes the remaining part of our toys and trin- kctSj to manifcfl our kind intentions towards them. I!' n 1. ^. ti i i % :r^' 2'10 A vnVAGS* OF DISCOVERY [^DftC!, them, and as fome little atonement alfo for the injury, which, contrary to our inclinations, they had fuftaincd, in defending ourfelvcs againft their unprovoked, unmerited hoftility. In our way to the (liip, we favv two natives running along the beach to the canoes, but on our a.-rival on board they were not difccrnible with jur glalles. The men were of a middling fizj, ;ome ftout- ly made, well limbed and flclhy ; their hair, both of the head and beard, was black, and by fome was worn long. The young men had it tied up in a knot on the crown of their heads, intermixed with black and white feathers. Some had their beards plucked out; their complexion and gene- ral colour is dark brown, with plain features, and in general bad teeth. Their Ikins were deftitute of any marks, and they had the appearance of being cleanly in their perlbns. Their drefs was cither a feal or bcar-flcin tied with iinnet, infide outwards round their necks, which fell below their hips ; or mats neatly made, tied in the fume manner which covered their backs and fiiould rs. Some were naked, excepting a well woven matt of fine texture, which, being fullcned at each end by a ftrlng round their waiils, made a fort o-f decent e;armcnt. W c did not obiervc tliat their ears were bored, or that they wore any ornaments about their perfons, excepting a few who had a fort of necklace made of mother of pearl ihells. Several M infide elow (lime matt each (ort o-t their imcnts had a IhcUs. Several II79.] ROUND THE WORLD. 241 Several of them had their fifliing Uncs, made of the fame fort of hemp with their nets, faftened round them ; but we did not fee any of their hooks. We noticed two or three old men, but they did not appear to have any power or autho- rity over the others. They fecmed a chearful race, our converfation frequently exciting violent burfts of laughter aniongft them. On our firft landing their furprizc and exclamations can hardly be imagined ; they pointed to the fun, and then to us, as if to afk, w^hether w'c had come from, thence. The not finding a fingle habitation, led us to confider this part of the ifland as a tempo- rary refidcncc of the inhabitants, poffibly for the purpofc of procuring a fupply of fhcll and other fifli. The former, of diifcrent kinds, were here to be had in great abundance : claws of cray fifli were found in their canoes ; and as the birds about the fhorc were in great numbers, and flew about the natives as if never molcfled, it gave us rcafon to believe that the lc;i furnlflicd the prin- cipal means of their fubfiilciue. l^lack fca pics with red bills, black and white fpotted curlews with vellovv bills, lar(Y eaftwardly. The watch and oblervations having agreed fo well, little error is to be apprehended in the lon- gitude alTigned to Chatham Ifland. Our pleafant weather wjis of no long con- tinuance ; on Tuefday the 0th, in the latitude of 35" 43^ longitude IQ/" 20' towards evening it fell calm. A breeze next morning, Wednefday the 7th, iprang up at N. E. with which we fleer- ed to the E. S. E. between which, and the N. N, W. the wind continued with hazy, rainy, loggy and very unpleafant weather until Sunday the nth, in latitude 36" 53', longitude 2o0": having been vifited by few oceanic birds. The wind now veered round by the weft to the fouth- Q 2 ward. ' ■f . I t h-vt i; I 244 A VOVAGEOP nrSCOVERY [df.C ward, and brought us tolerably pleafant weather, with which, until Thurlday the If.th, we con- tinued to ftccr north by call; when, in latitude 30'M ;', longitude 208" iCy, the wind again re- fumcd its noitix-rn direction, varying a point or two on cither lidc of north. The atmofpherc became dark, heavy, fultry and gloomy ; the clouds poured down torrents of rain accompa- nied with much lightning, thunder, and violent fqualls, which obliged the crew to be conftantly expofed, until Tuefday the 2()th ; when the wind changed to the fouth, blew a moderate breeze, and we again had fine fettled weather. * . Although every advantage had been taken which the winds afforded, during the laft four days, we had not been able to fhortert the dif- tance from our dcftined port, more than fix leagues ; our latitude this day being 2Q° 8', lon- gitude 211" 55\ Shortly after noon, fome ob- fervations were procured for the longitude. The mean of four fets of diftanccs gave 21-1" 3o' 18', the watch, 212° 13' 15'. Although the watch was confiderably to the weft ward of the lunar obfervations, yet in the laft of five days, it made 1° 19^ more eafting than the log (hewed. The wind continued between fouth, and E. S. E. with pleafant weather ; on Thurfday the 22d wc were aj^raln enabled to obtain more obfervations for the longitude, when the mean of •MMM* DF.cr. :her, con- itudc 1 re- nt or phcrc ; the impa- iolent tantly ; wind )reezc, taken ft four ;hc dil- jan fix ', Ion- lie ob- Thc O' 18'', watch lunar t made and lurfday more mean of '791-1 ROUND THE WORLD. 'lACi of two lets gave 213' 53' ;". the watch 212" -13', the mean of thcfc, atid thofc taken on Tuefday, reduced by the watch to this day, gave the mean refult q{ the fix fets 213° 5 1' 3()", which was 1° 10' eaft of the watch; our latitude at this time was 2r/' 20'. At eight the next morning, land was i<:en from the malt- head bearing, by compafs, W. i.y S. an hour afterwards it was vifible from t'tcdcclc bearin'r W. S. W. i W. at the diftancc of ubout ten k s. It proved to be a fmall high iHand; its noithcrn part formed an elevated hummock, from the fall of which the land continued level, and then gradually dccrcafcd to the other ex- treme point. The watch, with its error, gave the longitude, at the time the above bearings were taken, 211" 0^, 0a ^( 213" ]('/, our latitude by eflim tion at this time 23o 3''/. The fun being within a few minutes of the zenith at noon, our obfervation was inditrerent, and could by no means be de- pcnded upon. I did not think it proper, on the jircfent occafion, to give any name to this illand. I had Ibme reafon to doubt the accuracy of our longitude. On our arrival at Otaheitc I fliould be enabled to determine whether this ifland mii;ht not be Tobouai fcen by Captain Cook, or the land fuppofed to ha\'e been fecn to the Ibuth- Q 3 eaftvvcirdi IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 *" "^ Ilia I.I I: t;& 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation /. ^^ .^^£p. 33 WIST MAIN STRKT WIBSTER.N.Y. U980 (716) S73-4503 kA^:l 246 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEKY [dEC eaftward, whilft the Refolution was off th^t iHand. The wind principally between E. N. E. and S. E. blew very frefli, attended with fqualls, a gloomy atmofphere, and an almoft inceflant rain, until feven in the morning of Monday the 20th, when the weather clearing, gave us a view of Maitca or Ofnaburgh illand ; bearing, by com- pafs, E. S. E. diilant only about fix or eight leagues. We immediately fleered for Otaheite, v/hich was feen about eight bearing W. ^ N. The wind was now eaftwardly, accompanied by Hiowcrs of rain. At noon, the land over point Venus bore weft, diftant feven or eight leagues. The latitude now obferved (being the firft time fmce the 23d) varying only 5^ from the dead reckoning, was 17" 29', longitude 211° 45', by the watch 210" 3r/. In the afternoon, the wind became foutluvardly, with dark gloomy weather. Having rccichcd, by five o'clock, within four or five miles of the fhore, a little to the eaflward of point Venus, fome canoes came off, and brought fome cocoa-nuts, and two fmall hogs, which were inftantly purchafcd. Towards fun-fet, the breeze died away, and it continued calm until midnight, when it again frefhcned from the eafl- Vv'ard ; with which, under an cafy fail, we plied until the morning, when all our canvafs was fpread ni a ird of mght hich , the until eafl- plied pre: was ad i7Ql.j JlOUtTD THE WORLD. 24/ Tpread for Matavai bay. About eight o'clock wc rounded the Dolphin bank in 2i fathoms water, and worked up into the bay. About nine we anchored in eight fathom, black muddy t)ottom; point Venus bearing by compafs N. 15 E.; the Dolphin bank N. 70 W. ; and One-Tree hill S. 3 1 W. This being the place of rendezvous appointed by Captain Vancouver, we experienced no fmall degree of difappointment on not finding the Difcovery i-n port ; and our folicitude for her welfare was greatly incr:afed, when we ad- verted t(D her fuperiority in failing, which had given us rcafon to believe her arrival would have preceded ours, at Icaft a week. We icarce'ly anchored, when the natives docked around us in the mod civil and friendly manner, bringing with them an amply fupply of the different retrcfhmcnts their country afforded. Some trifling thefts being committed by fome of our numerous vifitors, wc were under the neccf- fity of obliging them to retire to their canoes alongfide, with which they complied in the iz;reateil t!;ood humour. The whole of the after- noon was a continued rain, as heavy as any one on board ever beheld, accompanied with a very fever e tempeiL On our iirff arrival, the whole of the liiore was one uninterrupted beach ; but, towards evening, the torrents of rain which had fallen, caufed an inundation of the river, which \' .* u I Q t brok ^^i«,... «*«»^^->l*»».„-;,- ••., -^- •<*m ! 1 248 A V0YA6E OF DISCOVERY [deC. broke Its bank about half way, between point Venus and One -Tree hill ; and through the breach an immenfe quantity of water was dif- charged, which brought with it a great number of large trees that were fcattered in various direc- tions over the bay. A great concourfe of the inhabitants had aiTcmbled and beheld the bank give way, upon which they all ihoutcd, feemingly with acclamations of great joy ; for had not this event taken place, their houfes and plantations would probably have been much incommoded by the overflowing of the river. ' Our cutter was moored alongfide. In the courfc of the night one of the trees drifted athwart her, broke the iron chain with which Ihe was fccured, ftove in her broadfide and ftcrn ; and, on her filling, the furniture was waflied away. This circumftance, little to the credit of the gentlemen who had the watch on deck, was not difcovered until the morning of Wedncfday the 28th, when, after fome hours fearch in the launch, the party returned without finding the loft materials. From young OtoOf I rccci\ed this morning a prefent of two hogs, and Ibme fruit. Otoo the elder, now ftiled Pomttrrey, we undcrftood, wa:5 at Eimeo, whither the meffengers requcfled wc would fend to acquaint him with our arrival, on which he would inlhuitly to repair to iMatavai. His ( \ ;.S0Jsi^4»rii«j», -i ^a«|K>i*>., :,«^. -^ Biiiltel^ i ', H loo the was led vvc ;?\, on litavai. His 17()1,] HOUND THE WORLD. 249 His abfencc, however, had produced not the leaft inconvenience ; for notwithftanding we had not been vifited by any chief, yet the behaviour of the people was perfedly civil and friendly. They fupplied us with as much provifion as w^e could poffibly ufe, on very reafbnable terms. The greater part of this day, and all the fucceeding night, the tcmpeft continued with unabated tor- rents of rain. OnThurfday morning the 29th I received from Oparre a very bountiful prefent, confifdng of hogs and fruit, from young Otoo, with a melfagc to fignify that he might be expedlcd next day at Matavai. In the evening, the weather being i. little more temperate, though the furf continued to run too high to admit of our approaching the beach in the bay, we landed at the back of point Venus, and were received bv the natives with great cheerfulnefs and cordiality. They treated us with the utmoft hofpitality, and vied with each other to be foremoll in friendly attentions. The wind having ihiftcd to the callward, the weather became fercne and pleafant ; and being informed the next morning, ^^Friday the 30th) by fome of the natives, that a (liip was in fight, I repaired inilantly on fliorc, and had the un- fpeakablc picafurc of perceiving it to be the Dif- covery to the callward, (leering for the bay. About t *«fc.v- 250 A VOYAGE OP DIoCQVEIiY [dlC. About ten o'clock, as Ihe hauled in between the reef and the Dolphin bank, I went on board to congratulate Captain Vancouver ; and to inform him of our welfare and proceedings fuice oi^r fe- paration. It may not be improper to obfervc, that the feparatjon of the two vcilbis was occafioncd, as "wasfirftconjcdlured, by'circumances unavoidable, which occurred during a very heavy and violent ftorm. As fome recompence, however, for the anxiety attendant on lofing the company of our little confort, we had to reflect, that, eventually, the gale had been the fortunate means of our making fome additions to geography. The ifiands firfi: difcovered by the Chatham, and named Knight's illand by Mr. Broughton, were the Snares, which wc had pafled in the Difcovery a few hours before. As Mr. Brough- ton corifidered our means for afcertaining their true pnfition fuperior to what he poiTelTed, their pofitive fituation as placed by us may be receive^ as correct ; but as the Chatham pafled through^ them, the relative fituation to each other, accord-? ing to Mr. Broughton's, obfcrvations is to be pre- ferred. ' ' llie Difcovery pafled about twenty leagues to the north of Chatham illand; as did Captain Cook .1? t ,ngr^..-*E£i*fca-i-»— ■■ •7QI.] hound the would. '251 Cook in March 1 777, who alfo paffcd, about the fame diftance to the fouth of it, in June 1773: on all thefe occafions, it was not obicrvcd, nor did we, in the Difcovery. fee the iUands dif- covcred by the Chatham on the 23d of Decem- ber, lying more to the eaftward than Tobouai, and in latitude 23" 4'/, longitudp 212^ -Kj', H 1/ CHAPTER K* 252 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [j31iC. CHAPTER VI. V'tftt Otoo — Arrival of Pomurny and Matooara Mallow — Arrival of Tt/ozv, Fonmrrtys Father — Intcrvlczv bctwcot Taoiv and his Sons — Siih' vil/jion of Taovj to Otoo — Fntcrtainmcnts at the Fncampmert — V'tjit ofPoatatou — Death of Ma- hoiv — Fxcnrfion to Oparre. BY tlic time Avc had anchored, the (liip was furroundcd with canoes laden v.ith the dif- ferent produiSlions of the country. The natives, with every affurancc of fricndihip, and with cx- prcffions of the grcatell joy at our arrival, were crowding on board. One or two amongft them, although not principal chiefs, evidently aiTumed feme little authority, and were exceedingly ear- ncfi that we fliould not fuffer the multitude to come on board, as that would be the beft means to prevent thefts, and infure that amity and good fcllovvlhip which they appeared very folicitous to cflal;iifli and fupport. We complied with their advice, and found no diffijulty in carrying it into execution. We had only to defire they would return to their canoes, and they immedi- ately complied. 1 had the mortification of find- i T in cr ledi- ind- 1791.] K0U?:D THE WOULIT. 25^ ing on inquiry, that moll of the iVicnds I had left here in the year 1/77, both mule and female, were dead. Otoo, with his father, brothers, and fifters, PotatoUy and his family, were the only chiefs of my old acquaintance that were now Jiving. Otoo was not here ; nor did it appear that Otahcite m as now the place of his refidencc, having retired to his newly acquired poffeflion Eimeo, or as the natives more commonly call that ifland Morea, leaving his eldeft fon the fuprcme authority over this, and all the neigh- bouring iflands. The young king had taken the name of Otoo, and my old friend that of Fomur^ rey\ having given up his name with his fovereigii jurifdiction, though he Hill fecmcd to retain his authority as regent. Mr. Broughton had received fomc prcfents from Otoo, who being now arrived from Oparrc, had icnt dcfiring that gentleman would vifit him on ihorc at Matavai. I had re- ceived no invitation ; Irat, as fome of the natives gave mc to undciltaiHl that my accompanying Mr. Broughton would i.v: cftcemcd a civility, I did not hefitatc to comply, cfpecially as Mr. Broughton had prepared a prcfent in fo handfome a way, that I confidcrcd it a fufucient compli- ment to the young king from us both. As foon as the Ihip was lecured, Mr. Whidhey and my- ielf attended Mr. l^roughton, with intention to iix on an eligible fpot f< .r our tcnt^, and for trani- adini': 1 M i^i it It I .M J / !. 234 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVKRY [dEC. adinp; our nccclTary liufincrs on fliorc ; and altcr- wards to pay our rcfpcds to his Otahcitcan ma- je%. The furf obliged us to row round the point near the mouth of the river ; where we landed, and were received by the natives with every de- monftration of regard. A mellenger was in- ftantly difpatched to inform the king of our ar- rival, and intended vifit. The ftation of our tents on my former vifits to this country, was not likely, on the prcfent occafion, to anfvver our purpofe ; the beach was confiderably waflied away, and the fand being removed from the coral rocks rendered the landing very unfafc. The furf had alfo broken into the river, and made it very fait. Thefe circumftanccs induced me ta fix on a fituation about a quartc:* of a mile fur- ther along the beach, to the fouthvvard. The meffengcr tliat had been difpatched to inform O/oo of our landing and propofed vi fit, returned ■with a pig, and a plantain leaf, as a pcace-ofFer- ing to mc ; accompanied by a fpccch of congra- tulation on our arrival, and offers of whatever rcfrcflmicnt.s tlic country afforded. This fliort ceremony lichig finifiicd, we proceeded along the beach in expectation of meeting the young fove- relgn, until we arriA cd near to the place where the river had broken its banks. There we were diredcd to halt, under the fliadc of a palm tree, 1,,)!.] ' KOUNI) THE WoaLl). lo'v tree, to \\1i'Kh \vc readily confcntcci, the weather beinj^ nearly ealm, and exccfTively lultry. After waiting a fliort time, wc were acquainted that the king, having fome objedion to crof* the river for the pnrpofe of meeting ilrangers, rc- queflied wc would go to him. A canoe was in waiting to take us over ; and having walked about an hundred yards on the other fide, the interview took place. We found Otoo to be a boy of about nine or ten years of age. He was carried on the flioulders of a man, and was clothed in a piece of Englidi red cloth, with ornaments of pigeons* feathers hanging over his flioulders. When we had approached within about eight paces, we were dciircd to ftop : the prcfent we had brought was exhibited ; and although its magnitude, and the value of the articles it contained, excited the admiration of the by-flanders in the liigheft de- gree, it was regarded by this young monarch with an apparently Ran arid cool indifference. It was not immediately to be prefentcd ; a certain pre- vious ceremonv was neceil'ary. Not confiderina' myfelf fufficiently mailer of the language, I ap- plied for afliiilancc to an inferior chief named Moerree, (who had been ulcful to Mr. Broughton) to be my prompter. At firft he ufed fome pains,- but not fnidint( me fo \\x>t a fcholar as he expeift- ed, he foon took the whole ofiicc upon him felt. tie anfwcrcd for our peaceable and friendly in- tentions., ii.: M \ 25() A VOYAGE OF DTSCOVERY [noV. tentlons, aiul rcqueflcd fuppllcs of proviilons, and • a pledge of good faith tovNards us, with as much confidence as if he had been intimatel)' acquaint- ed with our wiHies and defigns. Our fituatioii on this occafjon was fimilar to that of his Otahci- tean majefty, who condefcendcd to fay but a i'cw words, a perfon by his fide fparing him that trouble by going through all the formal orations. A ratification of peace and mutual friendfhip being acknowledged on both fides, and thcfe ce- remonies concluded, which took up fifteen or twenty minutes, the different European articles compofing the prcfcnt, were, with fome little form, prcfcntcd to Ofoo; and on his fliaking hands with us, which he did very heartily, his counte- nance became immediately altered, and he re- ceived us with the greatcft cheerfulncfs and cor- diality. He informed me, that his father, my former acquaintance and friend, was at Morca, .and rcqucitcd I would fend thither a boat for him ; ibr, as the illanders were much accuf- • tomed to raifc I'alfe reports, Pomnrrcy would not believe that I was arrived without feeing fome of us, by w bom he would be convinced. He alfo added, that if avc jQiould fail without feeing his father, he would not be only very much concern- ed, but very angry. This language being in the mouths of every one around us, and feeling a great defiic to fee an old friend who had ever conduded I loicu, lat for .ccuf- Id not |mc ot ic alfo iccrn- lin the |ing a e\cr lludcd I79I.] HOUND THE WORLD. 257 concluded himfclf with propriety, and appeared firmly attached to our intercft, I promifed to comply with the young king's requcft. The fuffiifions of joy, and a readinefs to oblige, were evident in the countenances of all whom wc met. Their inftant compliance with all our re- qucfts, and their eagerncfs to be foremoft in per- forming any little friendly office, could not be obferved without the mofl: grateful emotions. Each of us was prefented with a quantity of cloth* a large hog, and fome vegetables ; after which we returned on board extremely well pleafed with our vifit and reception. My original intention in callitig here was for the folc purpofe of recruiting our water, and ob- taining a temporary fupply of freih provifions; but on further confidcration I was convinced, that we Ihould not find any place this winter, where the necelTary duties wc had to perform be- fore wc could proceed to the coaft of America, would be fo well done, or executed with ib much cafe and convenience, as in our prcfent fituation. A fmall boat for the Chatham was to be built, and a great repair was necefTary to her large cutter. The timber cut in Dufky bay wanted to be fawn into planks for many other effential purpofcs. Thcfc matters required immediate attention, and could not fo properly be executed on board; be- fidc which, the known accuracy with which the Vol. I. 11 fituation It I !t . 258 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [DEC, iituatlon of this ifland is fettled, made nic anxious to land our chronometers, for the purpofe of aiccrtaining their error, and rate of going, which had latel}' become fomewhat equivocal. Thefc reafons induced me to determine on giving the veflels every equipment here they required, which "wpuld have the further convenience of fliortening our vifit this feaibn at the Sandwich iflands. Dire and who was nowhere on an Ereeoi party,* un- dertook to be their pilot. As ibon as the boat put ofF, the crowd about the Ihip becoming acquaint- ed with her errand, the news was fpccdlly carried with acclamations to the lliorc, and there re* ceived with great demondrations of gladacfs. a. cj;.;// ;i * vide Cook's Voyages. ' ^ ' •" ... jr . ;■ .'. ' • During mmir- .—^MlrflwWg*^ ion. Mr. IS on Mo- 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 259 During the night, the fwell in the bay had greatly increafed, and conceiving we were nearer the Dolphin bank than was imagined on our ar- rival, we warped nearer in lliore, and moored in 1 3 fathoms black fand, and muddy bottom : One-Tree hill bearing by compafu S. 2(3 W. ; and point Venus N. 14 E. The furf breaking with great violence, had hitherto prevented our land- ing the camp party ; but as I had been accuf- tomed to fee this place perfeclly fmooth, I enter- tained no doubt that the bay would in a day or two refume its ufual tranquillity. Sunday morning ufliered in the new year. The furf had in fome mcafurc fubfidcd, though it ftill broke with great violence on the fliore ; which induced me to make new year's day a holiday. Every one had as much frelh pork, and plum- pudding as he could make ufe of; and left in the voluptuous gratifications of Otaheite, we might forget our friends in old England, all hands were ferved a double allowance of irroi>; to drink the healths of their fweethearts and friends at home. It is fomewhat fmgular that the gunner of the Difcovery was the only married man of the whole party. The weather becoming plcafant on the morn- ing of Monday the 2d, the tents, obfcrvatory, &c. were fent on fliore. Thcfe were conftantly prc)tc<5lcd by a guard of marines, and cur field I Hi :.;r n Kuing R - pieces ; V*. ./ 260 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY fjA.W pieces ; which were very properly conftrudted for our occafions, and anfvvcred every expected pur- pole. Mr. Puget was charged with the encamp- ment, and Mr. Whidbey was particuhirly to at- tend the obfervatory. My attention and refidcncc was divided between the fliip and the fliorc. On pitching our tents, a great concourfc of the" natives in the moft friendly and orderly manner attended. Their numbers, iri: fome mcafurc,. proved inconvenient, by interrupting our labours; but, on' a line being drawn on the ground, denot- ing the fpace we intended to occupy, not one attempted to trcfpafs; and thofe who were per- mitted to help in the debarkation of our ftorcs, conduced' themfelves with the utmoft decorum, and feemed amply repaid with a few beads for their afliftance. Towards noon Mr. Mudgc returned with my old friend Pomurre}', who was fainted, prcvioufly to his coming on board, with four guns from each veffel, which gratified him extremely. W'^ith him came Matooara Mahozv, commonly called Mahow ; the reigning prince, under Otoo, of Mo- rca. There was however little probiioility of his long enjoying this honorable ftation, as he ap- peared to be in the lall ftagc of a deep and rapid decline ; his perfon was reduced to a mere fkcle- ton, which he was not able to raifc witliout great afliftance. lie was hoifted on board in a chair, and i t!" am t wi mm^t^i0tm my oufly each KVith ailed Mo- f his ap- rap'ul Hvclc- [Trcat clvciir, aivl 17()2.] ROUND THE 'WORLP. 0,61 and fupported by fix people down to the cabin* where, unable to fit up, or to {land, a bed was prepared for him on the lockers. The reafbns that could induce a man in his deplorable con- dition to undertake fuch a vifitp muft, vvitho\it doubt, be not Icfs curious than extraordinary ! Pomiirrcy had perfect rccollcclion of mc ; and every exprcflion, and adion, indicated the fincc- rity of the happinefs he profelfed on our arrival. He frequently obfcrvcd, I had grown very much, and looked very old fince laft we had parted. In the afternoon, his two wives and youngeft fifter arrived ; the former were the fillers, and the lat- ter the wife of Mahoiv. His two brothers alfo accompanied the ladies, with many chiefs and attendants, each prefenting mc on their coming ,on board with cloth, hogs, fowls and vegetables, in fuch abundance, that wc had ,now more than we could well difpeftfc with. This profufioti, however, and the manner in which .it was be- llowed, was very grateful to our feelings, as It plainly evinced the kind-hearted dlfpofilion of the inhabitants, and that vve could not experi- ence any want were our fcay to be protradlcd far beyond the period of my prefent intention. It now became neceHary that a handfomc return ihould be made to the whole group, agreeably to the rank and fituation of each individual. In fclcding the prefents I v/as fortunate enough at R 3 once m i 8 . T i r; .: 2t)3 A VOYAGE OF DlSCOVEllY [jAN. once to fucceed, far beyond their mod fanguinc cxpc(5lations. As Pomiirrey and Mahow, with their wives, were to flcep on board, their donations were not to be exhibited to public view until the crowd was difperfcd ; and I was inftruc^lcd, in the event of inquiries being made concerning the prefents I propofed to make thele illuftrious perfonages, to enumerate but few of the articles. Amongft thofe intended for Pomiirrey were two axes. Thcfe he defired no one fliould know of; and to pre- vent even fufpicion, hid them under my bureau, where they remained fome days, until he fent his elder wife Fomurrey Whahehie for them. This degree of fecrecy Teemed inexplicable. Amongft the feveral chiefs who vifited us, was Voeno, chief of Matavai, who brought with him a portrait of Captain Cook, drawn by Mr. Web- ber, in the year 1777. This pidurc is always depofited in the houfe of the chief of Matavai^, and is become the public regifter. On the back of it was written, that the Pandora had quitted this ifland the 8th of May, 1/91. It is natural to fuppofc v\c Ihould be very foli- citous to become acquainted with the clrcum- ftances that had attended the vcffel and the un- fortunate pcrfons belonging to the Bounty. Cap- tain Edwards, who in the Pandora was dlf patched from England in quell of them fome months prior tg •/. y'k' '''v-..*v.. nmmmmm him ways :avai, back luitted 17()2.] ROUND THE WORIO. lOS to our failing, had, we undcrftood, arrived here, and taken on hoard thofe of the crew who were left at Otaheite, amounting to the number ot thirteen, at the time Mr. Chriftian with the reft of his party failed from the iiland, which was fome time before the arrival of the Pandora; fmce which period I was not able to procure any intelligence of Mr. Chriftian or his companions. Whatever particulars could be colle '1 ii \ rA% M»i •■'T m 266 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVKKY [j^^^* reforting to feme little adcJrcfs, which fortunately was attended with the defired iuccefs. I took an opportunity of acquainting Pownrrcy that my/ attendance at the obfcrvatory v/ould now be con- ftantly required, which would oblige me to dine on fhore ; but that I had ordered a dinner on board, and plenty of brandy, for him and his friends. A confultation fliortly took place, and as I was about to leave the fhip, he faid, if I would call for him after dinner, the whole party would difembark, defuingat the fame time, that he might be falutcd on his landing, from the cn^ campnicnt; which in the evening was done ac- cordingly. Our royal friends took up their abode in a wretched houfe brought fbr the exprefs pur- pofe to point Venus, where our tents on former vifits had been pitched. Pomurrey was not in a condition to favor us with hisprefence that even- ing ; but, in the morning of Wednefday the 4th, we had the honor of his company at the encamp- ment. He regarded with inquifitive attention, and great admiration, the fcveral works in which our people were engaged. A large piece of tim- ber which was favving into plank, greatly attract- ed his notice, and drew me into a fcrape; he faid it was impoffiblc we could be in immediate want of fo great a quantity, and did not doubt that ere long we fliould be in a country where we could again be fupplied, having undcrltood ' ■■ '■' that ■.i?i. I 1792.3 ROUND THK WORLD. l(^f that this flick had been cut at New Zealand. Theie confi derations led him to requeft, that I would order a chcft of the plank to be made for him, fix feet long, four feet broad, and three feet deep. 1 excufed ruyfelf, by replying that I could not with any convcniency part with fo much plank, nor could the carpenters be well fpared from the bufmefs on which they were em- ployed ; but that, before we failed, I would en- deavour to have a fmall cheft made for him. Ponnfi'try, however, was of opinion, that a large chcft would take little more time to finifh than a fmall one, and olTered to find plank for the top and bottom, if I would fupply the fides and ends, and allow a carpenter to make it. In fliort, he was fo prcfling and earneft, that much againfl my inclination, having great demands for the plank, and conflant employ for the artificers, I was under the necelTity of complying with his wiflies. MaJioiv, though extremely feeble, paid us a, vifit on ihore ; being unable to walk, he was car- ried about in a kind of litter. Many other chiefs were now conflantly attendant upon us with a numerous party of the natives, who all conducted themfelves with the ftridlefl propriety, and feem- ed highly delighted with the new mode of fpend- ing their time, in obferving and animadverting en our different employments. t ! - iin n 1 ■( '268 A VOYAGE OF DISCO VERY [jAN, The wind, fmce our arrival, had been caft- wardly, blowing a moderate breeze ; it had now veered to the north with fqualls and fhowers of jain, attended by a very heavy rolling fwcll in the bay. The Difcovery's yawl wanting repair was hauled up for that purpofc. In the evening we had much rain, with frequent gufts ofwind; which ih much incrcafed the furf, that all com- munication with the fhore muft have ceafed, had not the trood offices of our kind friends on the ifland, enabled us to keep up a oorrefpondcncc. They fuccefsfully contended with the boifterous elements, by fwimming to and from the fliip; and, to manlfcft their attachment, fupplied us by this means with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other rcfrefli meats. On the morning of Thurfday the 5th, the N. W. wind, which is the moft boifterous and unpleafant known in this country, brought with it a fea which broke w ith fuch great violence on the Ihore, as to infulatc the fpot on which our royal friends had taken up their abode. The wind could not be confidercd as a ftrong gale ; yet fo violent w as the fca that accompanied it, that it broke with unintermittcd force in every part of the bay, excepting where the vcHels rode ; and, even there, we did not Intirely efcape its fury; two Teas broke on board the Difcovery, although in eight fathoms water, which nearly filled the wailt. r792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 26(> walft. Towards eight o'clock, the clouds iti the N. W. bearing a very threatening appearance, the (lieet anchor was dropped underfoot. This- difagrecable weather continued all day, and the furf ranged lb high on the fliorc as to make it ne- eellary to remove the obfervatory further back fevcral paces ; notwithftanding which, the kind offices of the friendly natives, regardlefs of dan- ger, were uninterruptedly continued. It became calm, and the weather appeared more fettled on the morning of Friday the 0th. The Iheet anchor was weighed and replaced ; and all hands were bufily 'employed in their re- fpedivc departments. After break faft, I went on fhorc, and underftood that Otoo had, in the Gourfe of the laft two days, been carried, as when we firll; met Iiim, about the encampment. On his approach, I invited him into the marquee,, and requefledhe would vifit the Uiips. Both thefc invitations he declined ; and I was immediately given to underftand, that fhould he enter the tents or fliips,. neither his father, mother, or any inhabitant of thefe iflands, could again be admit- ted ; that c\ ery thing is and muft be deftroyed out of w hich he fliould cat or drink, although veil'els or utenfils belonging to us. As the young monxirch was about the encampment moil part of the day; whllft at dinner, I demanded of his father if 1 mi^rht fend him a izlafs of wine ; he rcu lied, % u < t ^^7^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVKllY f JAV. replied, it' I cliofc to have the glafs broken, I was at Hbcrty fo to do ; and enquired if I had an abundance ot* fuch articles to fpare. Some wine was therefore Tent in the fhell of a cocoa-nut, which being emptied by the young king, wasin- ftantly broken and thrown in tlie Tea. Fomurrcy had, early and frequently, afkcd if we had not fire-works on board, and being informed that we had, Saturday evening was fixed for an exhibi- tion, after which the royal party, with their dying chief j\/7//ow, were to return to Morea, and hav- ing landed him, Pomuirey and his wives were to return, and remain here until we fliould depart. The intended difplay of fire-works was made known to all around us, and meiTcngers with the intelligence were difpatched to various parts of the llland. Pomun\y\ father, who was formerly jaiow n by the name oi Happi, now called Taow, had ar- rived from Morea, on Saturday the ;th, and was on board the Difcovery, where he defucd to fee me ; on which, Pommrey with Urnp'iali nnd Wfiytooa, his two next brothers, accompanied me to pay our refpeds to their old fire, vsho had juit arrived in a large canoe, laden with the produc- tions of the country as a prefent. This interview was cxccflively afle(!:ting. it was with great ia- tisfadlon that I beheld the uffedionatc regard with which the three fbns embraced their aged and ! 179-0 nouNn TiiR WORLD. 27 1 and venerable father; who, In acknoulcdgiiig a grateful Icnfc of tlicir dutiful congratulations, exhibited feelings which drew tears from tht whole part). When thefe filial eftufions, which would have done credit to the ienfibility of the moil polifhed nations, had ful)fided, I prefented Tiwiv with a fultablc return ; and, on including iumc articles for his wiie, who was flill living at Morca, he was highly delighted, and the value of the prefent in his cllimation feemcd thereby infinitely increafed. -^ ;-,-i Some of the royal females liad now joined our party ; and as Pomiirrcy had not yet paid Mr. Broughton a vifit, we all went on board the Chat- ham. Prefents were necellary on this occalion ; and although I confidered that Mr. Broughton had been very liberal, our royal gucils fccmed ol n very ditFerent opinion ; but on explaining that there was not the lame abundance of valuable things on board the fmall veiled that there was in the large fllip, and having Ibmc retrofpedl to the number and value of thofe obtained from tlic Difcovery, we left the Chatham, and went en lliorc tolerably well fatisficd. .,j, ,, . , •; Soon after our arrival at the encampment \ witnefleda fcene, very ditFerent from that which had been exhibited on board on tlic p-ieetincr ol. three fons with tlieir venerable pareiit. It wa^ iliortly announced that 0/v; was approucfiinv'; ' I ' fi 2J'2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAlT. On this occafion, it became necelTary that the grandfather Ihould pay homage to his grandfon. A pig and a plantain leaf were inftantly pro- cured, the good old man ftrlpped to the waift, and when Otoo appeared in the front of the mar- quee, the aged parent, whofe limbs were tottering with the decline of life, met his grandfon, and on his knees acknowledged his own inferiority, by prefcnting this token of fubmiflfion ; which, jo far as could be difcovered, feemed offered with a mixture of profound refpec^t, and parental re- gard. The ceremony feemed to have little cfFccl on the young monarch, who appeared to notice the humiliating fituation of his grandfire with the moft perfe(fl indifference and unconcern* This mode of behaviour is, however, rather to be attributed to the force of education, than to a want of the proper fentiments of afFe(^ion ; as I pcrfedly recoUeded that, when I was here with Captain Cook, Pomurrey treated his brothers with the moft cool indlfrerence, although, on the pre- fent occafion, there are few examples of three brothers living in greater harmony, or regarding each other with more fraternal afi^e^irion: Itfliould therefore feem, that this fort of dlilant deport- ment is a necefTary appendage to the high office of fovereign. Another royal fon and daughter honored us with their company. Thcfe, with a daughter remaining at Morca, are all the chil- dren 17C)2.]] ROUNi) THE WORLD. 273 drcn of Pomurrey now living. His family origi- nally condfted of five, but one of his daughters was deceafed. All thefe children were by his cldeft wife, known by the name of Pomurrey Whahe'me, or the female Pomurrey ; this lady I Ihall hereafter diftinguifli by the appellation of Queen Mother. By his youngcft wife he has had no children ; fhe is called Fler re te. Our new vifitors were, each like their brother O/oo, carried on men's Ihoulders ; and for the fame reafons which interdided him, they could not enter our habitations. The youth feemed to be about three or four years younger than Otoo, and had taken the name oiJVhyeadooaf in confequence of his being the acknowledged fovereign of T/di* rabou, under his brother Otoo; the daughter ap- peared to be about two or three years of age, to whom, or to the young lady remaining at Morea, I did not underftand that any particular titles or confequence were at prefent annexed ; yet this child feemed treated with much refpcdl and at- tention. We had a very large party of the royal family and of the ditrcrent chiefs to dinner at the mar- quee ; after which it was propofed, that the " Heava no Brit ante,'' that is, the Englifh en- tertainments, fhould commence. Pomurrey re- quefted that fome guns from the Ihips fhould be fired as a prelude; that the marines on fhore Vol. I. S Ihould :;ffi| \% 'i/'l A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN, fljould go through their cxercifc, and fire ; and that the efforts of the field pieces fliould be ex- hibited. From the latter were fired both round and cannifter fhot, which the furroundins; mul- titude beheld with furprize, admiration, and ter- ror, manifefled by their exprefTions, particularly on obfcrving the diflance to which the fmall three pounders threw the round iliot ; and the execution that evidently could be done by the cannifter, which was fired at a rock in the fca, lying at a convenient diflance. On firing with ■fome difpatch, three rounds from the-field pieces, the fear of Pomnrrcy completely overcame his curiofitv, and he exclaimed " Ateeraray' fi^nifv- ing he was perfedly fatisfied. In the evening, we were very fortunate in our difplay of fire- works. They had been well pre- pared and preferved ; and WTre, without excep- tion, of their various kinds, equal to any I ever f:i\v difcharged in Europe. A numerous crowd ulfcmblcd' on the occafion cxpreircd as much as- toniflmient and admiration as if thcfc had been the firll exhibited in the ifland. I endeavoured to prevail on Fomnrrcy to aiTift in the perform- ance. He once took the port fire in his hand, but his heart failed, and calling his youngefl wife F'ler re te, defired 1 would inflrud her. She was by no means fo alarmed as her hufband ; and, with a little of my affiftancc, fhc fired feveral rockets, e ; and be ex- 1 round 2; mul- nd tcr- icularly e fmall md the by the he lea, ig with pieces, me his ficnitV- ; in our ell pre- excep- I ever crowd uch as- d been voured 3rform- hand, eft wife he was ; and, feveral ockcts, 1792.] HOUND THE WORLD. 275 rockets, a Catharine wheel, fome flower-pots, and balloons. Having difplayed an aflbrtment of thefe, together with fome water rockets, &c. the exhibition was clofed ; and the natives retired in the raoft perfedl good order to their refpe 1J6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOA EKV [jAN. tables, cloth, miits, &c. I had been very inti- mate with this chief on my laft vifit to this coun- try ; we perfedly recolleded each other ; and the fmcerity of my friend, and his wife alfo, did not fpare me the mortification of being informed a lecond time, that I was grown exceedingly old. He much regretted that he had not arrived in time to partake of the entertainments of the pre- ceding day and evening ; as he had never been fo fortunate as to be prefent at fuch an exhibi- tion. This induced me to promife, that, on the return of Pomurrcy from Morea, a fimilar difplay lliould take place. PoatdtoUy who was now called H'lJ'iea, with his wife and filter, accompanied me on board, Amongft the valuables with which I prefented my old acquaintance and friend, was an axe, of which his fifter became fo enamoured, claiming to herfelf a part of the prefent 1 had received, that H'ldiea was under the ncceffity of ufing fome ^orcc to prevent her wrenching it out of his hand ; but, on my making a fmall addition to the articles Ihe had received, the lady became re- conciled. Our bufinefs in the feveral departments was now in great forwardnefs ; yet we were likely to experience an inconvenience in procuring fire- wood, as we had few trees in our neighbourhood but fuch as bore fruit. On mentioning this circumflance •" l79'-i'] ROUND THE WORLD. 277 clrcumftancc to Urripiah, he undertook, with Whytooai Poenoy and Moerree an inferior chief, to fupply more than the ihips would contain, pro- vided they were furnifhed with two axes each, as, on fuch an occafion, they could not afford to wear out their ov/n ; which, on my part, was readily acceded to. The fea had broken fo much into the river as to render it brackifh and unfit for ufe near our encampment ; this obliged us to have our cafks filled near a mile off, oppofitc UrriptaJis habita- tion ; who ordered them to be emptied, and fil- led, for the purpofe of feafoning, as often as we defired ; and giving them in charge to his trufty domcftics, they remained in his cuftody fevcral days in the mofl perfedl fafcty. This condu<5l was not fingular ; for it is but juftice to acknow- ledge, that every one of the inhabitants behaved with an uniform propriety, as deferving of our thanks as of our commendations. In every tranf- adion, they were emulous to afford us affiflancc to the utmoft of their power ; and feemed amply and fatisfadlorlly rewarded for their exertions in our fervice, by the humble return of a few beads, or Imall nails. ,j .,\ '" jnj ")„ The departure of Pomurreys family was daily put off, MaJiow being very defirous that we lliould convey him home in one of our boats; but »s thefe, as well as our men, were too much cm- S 3 ployed ^ A fi i if I' ■) ' 27s A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAN. ployed to be fpared for this purpofe, we were dally honored at our meals with moft of this good company ; and it muft be acknowledged, that their deportment at table was now fo much improved, that the major part conduded them- fclvcs with great confiftency. Excepting the daughter of Opoone, who reigned over Bolabola, and its two neighbouring ifles, we had now the prcfencc of all the fovereigns of this group of iflands. Opoonc had formerly conquered and an- nexed the illands of Ulletea and Otaha to the go- vernment of Bolabola ; but, on his death, the fovercignty of thefe iflands had, in right of na- tural, or original fucccffion, fallen to a chief whofe name was Mowree. He was a fhrewd Tcn- fible fellow, afFe(5ted to be well acquainted with the Englifh language, and certainly had acquired fbme words which he pronounced fo as to be un- derflood. He was a brother of Ponmrnys mo-- ther, was on a vifit to the royal family here, and was by them treated with much rcfpcd and at- tention, ^.vy.- .. . .'',00 ' . ^:;.v'i^, Hitherto I had received a few trifling prefents of proviflons only from Pomnney, who had lately exprefled fome regret that he had not made me a return for the many ufeful matters I had beftow- ed upon him, and had fixed this day to make an acknowledgment. Towards noon Pomurrey came to the marquee, attended idcd 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. Q,7Q attended by a confiderablc train. He was pre- ceded by three men, each bearing a parri, or mourning drefs, eftcemcd the moft valuable prc- fent the country can afford. Many of the rell were laden with cloth, fowls and vegetables ; thcfe with fome very large hogs which brought up the rear, made altogether a very fupcrb and grateful compenfation. Pomnrrey and his wives dined with us ; after which they took leave of the encampment to embark for Oparre, there to join Malio-w, who had departed early in the morning for Morea ; for which i(land the whole of the royal party were to fail the next day ; there they propofed to land Mahow, and, in the courfe of four or five days, return ; having given them to undcrftand we fliould, about that time, be on the eve of our departure. They were faluted from our ftation on lliore, on their way on board the Difcovery, where a canoe was waiting to re- ceive them ; and in which were two large hogs, that Pomurrey had dcfired might be fent me from Oparre. Confidering myfelf, on this occafion, his ucbtor, I endeavoured to difcover what would be moft acceptable in return. He had promifed to folicit a file for a man in his canoe, and he could not be prevailed upon to accept any other article. After a fliort flay on board, they bade us farewel, and were faluted with eight guns from the vefTcls. Moll: of the chiefs left us, in S -i order iv 280 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [|jAM. order to procure fuch articles as they confidered might be acceptable to us previoufly to our de- parture. Mr. Broughton, Mr. Menzies, and feveral of- ficers of the Dlfcovery and Chatham made an excurfion on Friday the 1 3th to the weftward, towards Oparre, and the country in its vicinity ; which, together with the abfence of the chiefs and their attendants, fo much reduced nur ib- ciety, that the encampment had the appearance of being almoft defcrted. At day-break the next morning, Saturday the 14th, I received a mcflage from Pomnrrey^ ac- quainting me with the death of Ma/tow ; in coii- fequence of which their voyage to Morea was at an end. Little concern could poflibly be felt on this occafion. Mallow's relief from the wretched condition in which he exifted, was directed by humanity to be cfteemed a moft happy event ; particularly when the very fingular treatment is confidered, which this poor being endured whilll in our neighbourhood. Almoft every evening, and fometimes twice in the night, he was brought in the litter from the royal habitation near the point, and placed in fome one of our tents for a fliort time, and then carried back again. In the day-time he was cither vifiting the encampment, or, in the heat of the fun, or in the midft of rain ^as rowed round the fhips, and infifted one even- ing !L_---t^J^^ w 1 1792.] ROUND THE WOULD. 281 ing on fleeping on board the Chatham. He was very fond of tea, and ctremcly dciirous that whatever nourifhment he wOok fliould he dreflcd in the EngUlh fufhlon. The condiidl obfcrvcd towards this dying man, fecmcd calculated, if not intended, to hailcn his dlllbhition. This however, was not to be reconciled with the ge- neral deportment of the whole royal party, and efpecially with that of Pomnrrcy, who appeared to regard him with great tcndcrncls and affec- tion. I was particularly inquifitivc why he was fo harafled about ; and they all agreed it was in confequence of his own dcfire, which, fo far as could be Icuiiied, fecmcd didated by fuperftitioui notions. " ' I dcfired the mcflenger to inform Tomurrcy, that I would attend the funeral folcmnities of the deceafed the next day. On the morning of Sunday the l.oth he again returned with a requell from Fomiirrey, that I would not vifit Oparrc until Tucfday, when the religious interdiction under which that diftri(^ had been laid would be at an end, no communication at prefent being permitted between the inhabitants of Oparrc and thofe of the other parts of the ifland. This was made generally known by the difplay of flags in the leveral path- ways ; not a canoe was fuffered to move along the Ihores ; nor was a fire allowed $0 be made ; which produced a degree of folem- nify. -^^■, f .» W'\ I ): 282 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN, nity, that was very cxprcflive of the concern lelt for the death of thi^ chief, and of his confcqucncc and rcfpcdability. Numerous tires had been ob- fcrvcd the prcccdiiiJ^ day all over the diftrid of Oparrc. Thefe, we were given to underftand, were ceremonies of a rehgious nature confcquent on the demifc o{ Md/iow, and it is reafunable to fuppofc that the mourners took advantage of this ordinance to cook fufficient provitions for the time of the interdiction. Our provifions having been fupplied in the greateft abundance, perminion was now granted for the purchafc of curiof?tics, agreeably to my promife contained in the relbictivc orders of the 25th of December lail. And as nothing worthy of attention had occurred in our neighbourhood during the abfencc of Mr. Broughton and his party, I lliall infert fuch obfcrvations made during their cxcurfion, as were communicated to me on their return. Our gentlemen embarked in a canoe belonging to Alozvnr, the Sovereign of Ulietea, who toge- ther with Wliytooa and his wife accompanied them towards Oparrc. On their way they landed for the purpofe of feeing the morai of TapootU' pootatea. MowreCy who attended them, on ap- proaching the facrcd fpot, defircd the party would ftop until he fliould addrefs the Eatooa. For this purpofe he featcd himfelf on the ground, and i79'^«] HOUND TF". WORLD. '283 and bcp^an pra)ing before a wuL om: ^tcd with a piece of wood indifferently ca^ d. on ■which was placed, for the prefent oc m, ;i bundle of cloth and fome red feathers. iJunnu; this ejaculation, which took up a conficlcrablc time, the names of the party were twice men- tioned. He likcvvife repeated the names of the fevcral commanders who had vifited the ifland ; together with thofe of " Kecne Corgc" (that is, King George) and *' Britarncy' which were fre- quently expreffed. When thefc introductory ceremonies were finiftied, Mowree attended them to every part of the morai, and explained every particular. He appeared to be well vcrfcd in all the ceremonials and rites appertaining to their religion, which made the party greatly lament their want of a competent knowledge of the lan- guage, as they were unable to comprehend his meaning, except in a few common inftanccs. Having left the morai, and proceeded weftvvard about a mile, they ariivcd at a houfc furroundcd by a plantation of ava belonging to Urrlptah, who was then at dinner with a numerous com- pany of our Matavai friends ; and w hilft our gen- tlemen were taking fome refrcfliment, a mef- fengcr arrived from IVJiytooa, whofe guells they w ere to be, and who had gone before them from the morai, rcquefting their attendance at his ha- bitation, which they found fituated on the verge of "/, I * '"'/? I .«• M^ •284 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAS*. of the fea (bore. In the iront of it was an ava j)hintation, intcrfpcrred with fugar cane, and ba- nanas ; near the houfc was a fmall flirubbery, of native ornamental plants. Tlie whole fiirrounded by a well conftrutled fence of bamboo, neatly interfec^led with clean paths, that led in dif- ferent diredions, produced an efted: that was ex- tremely plcafing, and redounded much to the credit and ingenuity of the proprietor. Whytooa had taken very etiedual means to provide for their entertainment ; for a large hog had been committed to the oven, and was nearly ready for the table, with an abundance of other rc- frclbments. The manfion was large and airy. By lines ftretched acrofs, they had quiet polfef- fion of one half of the building ; and this parti- tion prevented the idle curiofity of the aUembled natives from interrupting the comfort of their repaft. In the afternoon they were vifited by Urrip'iah and fomc of his attendants. He ob- ferved, that, in the abfcnce of his royal brothers, and other principal chiefs, it was not improbable that fome of the natives might take advantage of this ciicumrtance, and difcontinue their prc- fcnt orderly behaviour in the neighbourhood of the veflels and the encampment. He therefore requefted Mr. Broughton would, in his name, write to me, recommending the five following chiefs to be admitted into our fociety on board and ■ H « « J 702.] ROUND TIfF. WORLD. 285 and on fhorc ; whofc prcfcncc would be the means ot* cffcdualiy rcftraining the populace^ Their names were Porno, Maiinpo, and Moenee, of Matavai ; and Tuioahy and Arrehcah of Hapi- xio ; in the protedion and good offices of whom we may place the fulled confidence. Matiapo being prefent, he was charged by Mr. Broughton with this embaily. From our earlicft acquaint- ance with this royal and worthy chief, his mind had appeared to be wholly engrolTcd in devifiLj^ the means for our comfort, and for preferring a friendly ai.d good underilanding between us and liis countrymen ; and even here, though retired to his cottage, he was found equally zealous in the fame laudable purfuit. They were alfo com- plimented by the young king Otoo with a vifit. His approach was announced by the ufual cere- mony of all the natives prefent uncovering their fhoulders ; and as lie could not with propriety enter Wliytooas fence, they paid him their re- fpe<5ls on the beach ; whence, after receiving fome trinkets, he hallcned with his royal filler, each carried as before, to meet Fonntney, who was about to land at the morai. Towards the evening, a fccne was prefented that gave a very different turn to the feelings of the party. Oa paying their refpeds to the royal family, who had lauded near them, the forrowand dcjed'on which appeared in the countenance of Fomurrey, in- duced I I :•>«»«»*;- /:^ii^"r 28() A VOYAGE OP DISCOVEP.Y [JAX, duccd an Inqiilry into the caufe of his melan- choly; he replied in a low tone of voice, that ** Miitooara Maiiow was dead." Urripiali on hearing the newsburll into a flood of tears; and a forrowful gloomy fadnefs foon overfpread the whole ailembly. On advancing a little further, we obferved the queen-mother and Fier re te in tears near the canoe from which they had landed, fearching a bundle containing fomc fhark*s teeth, with which the women of this country torture themfclves, to manifcft their grief on fuch occa- fions. After each had made choice of an inftru- mcnt for this purpofe, they retired in filcnt afflic- tion to a neighbouring plantation. The next morning, (Monday the 1 0th) they were again honored by a vifit from Otoo and fe- vcral of the chiefs, in their way to the moral. Soon after, a canoe covered with an awning was iccn. coming from the wcfiiward, paddling in a flow and folemn manner towards the moral, in which was the corpfe of the deceafed chief. On their expreffing great anxiety to fee Pomtirrey for the purpofe of obtaining permiflion to attend the bu- rial ceremony, they were informed that he was gone to the moral, but would have no objedioii to their being prefent. They proceeded ; and, near the rivulet that flows by UmplaJi's houfe, they faw the queen-mother, Fier re te, and the widow of the deceafed MaJiow, fitting all in tears; and "7 ~H I ]70'2.] ROUND THE WORLD. 287 and in the paroxyfms of their afilld:lon, wound- ing their heads with the (hark's teeth they had prepared the preceding evening. The widow had a fmall fpot iliavcd on the crown of her head, which was bloody, and bore other evident marks of hav- ing frequently undergone the cruel etTed: of her defpair. Being apprehenfive that the prefence of ftrangcrs might be unwelcome, they took leave, and repaired to the moral, Vv here the prlefts had already begun their funeral folemnitics. Pomur- rey, Urrip'iah, and others, filently aiTenting, they moved quietly through the aiTcmbly, and were Icated with as little interruption to the duties, as on enterinir a church in En^rland after the fervice is commenced. Five prlefts were feated before Pomiir?ry\ chanting a prayer, with their faces towards O/oo, who fat on a man's lap. About ten yards from him was held a bundle of cloth, which contained emblematically the Eatooa-, a general name for their deities. The body of Ma- hozv, wrapped in Englilli red cloth, was depo- litcd under an awning in a canoe, whofe bow was drawn up a little way on the beach near the moral, and was attended by one man only at her ftern up to his middle in water, to prevent her driving from the fpot. The prlefts continued chanting their prayers, frequently exalting their voices, until they ended in a very ftirill tone. He \\ho, on this occafion, performed the office of '-'" ' chief (••i fi \ .,' ;/ . i[ 25S A VOVAGE OP DISCOVErxY [jAl^. chief pricft, was difcovcred to be our friend Mow-- reCf w'hofe prayer was equally fervent, and con- tinued nearly half an hour longer than the reft ; during which he was occafionally joined by ano- ther prieft in a very llirill tone of voice. This prayer of Mowrees fccmcd at intervals, like an expoftulation with the Divinity, by adverting to the different produdions of the illand remaining, and ftiil fiourifliing in the grcatcft plenty, and yet Matooara Mahow was fuffered to die; , The addrcfs being ended they all rofc up, and proceeded weftward along the fliore, followed by the canoe in vvhich w^as the corpfc, to the mouth of the rivulet, where the three royal ladies ftill continued to indulge their excelfive grief; and who, on perceiving the canoe, burft forth into a loud yell of lamentation, which was accompa- nied by an accelerated application of the (liork's teeth, until the blood very freely following, min- gled with their tears. The canoe entered the brook, and proceeded towards another moral at the foot of the mountains, where the ceremonies to be performed on the body of the deceafed re- quired fuch fecrecy, that, on no account, could our gentlemen be permitted to attend, although it was moll: earncllly requeiled. As fomc allevia- tion to this di (appointment, Pomurrey promifcd thev fiiould fee the manner in which the remains would be depofitcd the next day, and earneftly intrcatcd -.a Hi. 17 Cj^"] FOUND THK W01\Lp. 280 intreated thcv would dcfift from tol1ov/in«i: the proccHion any further on the prefent occaiion. As it was generally fufpeded that the body was now to undergo the proccfs of embalming, the party much lamented Po/w/^/vvy's interdidion, as it deprived them of the only opportunity that pof- fibly might ever occur of becoming acquainted with the nature of this operation ; whence might be derived not only curious, but ufcful anatomi- cal information. This prompted Mr. Menzies to renew his fulicitations to Pomurrcy to be ad- mitted alone ; but as thefe were attended with no better fuccefs they determined to abandon thefe melancholy folemnities, and extend their cxcurfion a few miles weftward to Pomurreys refidcncc ; vvhicii they found plcafantly fituated near the fliore, confiftins; of two hvic lioufes lately erected. Here they were entertained with a heava performed by a number of very youn'>; girls, in the wanton manner of the country. At a particular part of the dance, a fellow ftept in amongft the performers, and in a very obfcenc though ludicrous manner entertained the native audience ; but, on our gcntlcnicn expreffing their abhorrence of fuch indecorous behaviour, the girls, in finilliing their parts, did not cxpofe their perfons below the waift. After diftributing ibme prefents to the young ac'lrellcs, they retired ; Vol. I. T and - 1 1 } ■ il tj ii^ ''. nn wr ir —iww iji i j siw \- 'k i' IQO A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAN. and dIrccSlIng their route back, through the plan- tations, foon arrived at the houfe of a chief, where Whyiooa having provided an excellent repaft they were fumptuoully regaled. In the evening, as they returned to our friend's houfe, they obfcrved many fires were burning at Oparre, as if a grand entertainment was prepar- ing ; they however fared as ufual ; and after fup- per, on rcqucftlng their worthy hoft would join in a glafs of grog, to the health of friends in Bri^ tame, he, though extremely fond of the liquor, very politely declined the invitation ; faying, there "was but little for themfelves, and he would there- fore drink " Britarne" in a bowl of Otahcitcan iii'Ji which was immediately prepared. '^^' Before break of day, Mowree acquainted them, that, as religious reftri(^ions were laid on all the canoes in that part of the ifland, his could not be launched ; he was informed this would not be any inconvenience, as it was the intention of the party to return by land ; and requefted, that JVhytooa would prepare them an early breakfaft. This, Whytooa hoped they would excufe, as fires were interdicted, and cooking could not be fuf- fercd at his houfe ; but that he w^ould endeavour to provide them with fome refrefliment on their journey, when out of the diftridl of Oparre. Ac- companied by their worthy hoft and hoflefs, they now 5. Mf ,'f 3l79'2.] ROUND THE WORLD. 201 now fet forth on their return, highly impreiTcd with the attentive kindnefs and hoi'pitahty they had received. . - On reaching the rivulet, they rcqueftcd to be flievvn the morai to which the remains of MaJiozv Ijad been carried the preceding day. The road was pointed out, but having advanced a htde way a meflage was dehvered, requeuing they would return. On explaining the promife made 'hyPomiirriiv, much helitation enfued; after which WliytGoa direded one of the natives only to ac- company them, giving him at the fame time very particular injunctions. Mr. Broughton and Mr. Menzies followed this man, who appeared ex- ceedingly cautious and apprehcnfive of every flcp he took. They had not proceeded far when a general folitary gloom prevailed ; all the houfcs were defertcd, and not a Uving creature, except- ing two or three dogs, were to be feen until they arrived near the morai ; where, in a fniali houfe, three men were cbferved, who, moft probably, were the centinels of the facred place. Tliefc queftioned the guide in a very particular manner, and then acquainted him, that the body o Mahow had been removed to the morai, where it had flopped the day before ; and that Potnmrey was there alfo. They now took a curfory view of the holy fpot, which afforded little worthy of notice. Jt was terminated by high perpcndicu- T 2 "^ lar iV •ill k KM u 1Q2 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY f JAl*. Uir rocks, whence ifTued feveral ftrcams of water, who/b continued murmurs, aflifted by the wild and gloomy fituation of the morai, gave an aw- ful foleranity to the place, and fitted it to the mournful, facred purpofe, for which it is defigned. On the return of thefe two gentlemen to join the reft of the party, they paffed the refidence of the young king Otoo. It confifted of a middling- iized houfe, inclofed by a railing of wood, fitu- •ated on the confines of the diftrid:s of Matavai and Oparre ; beyond which the religious interdic- tions did not feem to extend any great diftance, as they Toon afterwards partook of an excellent breakfaft that IVhyt-ooa had taken care to provide. They then returned to the encampment, ex- tremely well pleafed with their excurfion, on Avhich they had been conftantly attended by fe- veral of the natives, who were always ftruggling to be forcmoft in ads of friendly attention ; fuch as carrying the party over the rivulets; taking charge of their fupcrfluous apparel, and other bundles; which, although comprifed of many ar- ticles highly valuable to them, yet, in juftice to their honcfty, it muft be recorded that the moft trivial article was not miiTed. • - v- •- ^ ^'^' I fliall take leave of this excurfion by adding a few ideas which, though principally founded on conjcAure, may not be unimportant, as they re- fpc(ft thcfc peculiar religious ceremonies. The opinion 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 2C)3 Opinion that the operation of embalming com- menced at the moral near the mountains was moft probably corrcd:. One of the principal parts of this ceremony I have been given to underOand, is always performed in great fecrecy, and with much religious luperftition ; this is the difcm- bowclling of the body. The bowels are, by the! people, confidered as the immediate organs of ienfation, where the fi/ft imprefiions are received, and by which all the operations of the mind are cai/ied on: it is therefore natural to conclude, that they may efteem, and venerate the intcftines, as bearing the greateft affinity to the immortal part. I have frequently held converfations on this fub- jedl, with a view to convince thern, that all in- telledual operations were carried on in the head; at which they would generally fmile, and inti- mate, that they had frequently {cen men reco- ver whofc fculls had been fra6lared, and whofc heads had otherwiie been much injured ; but that, in all cafes in which the intcftines had been wounded, the perfons on a certainty died. Other arguments they would alfo advance in favor of their belief; fuch as the elFe^t of fear, and other pailions, which caufed great agitation and unca- fmefs, and would fometimcs produce fu ncfs at the ftomach, which they attributed ii tircly to the a6lion of the bowels. If therefore this rea- foning be admitted, it would appear probable T 3 that i . /, •—*—.-, I'vl ifl I :i 'i\)^ A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAX. that the intcftines of MaJioxv were dcpofited at the moral under the mountains ; and as it is na- tural to imagine they would coniider the foul moil" att.iched to thofe mortal parts which bore to it the grratcft affinity, fo wherever thofe parts were depofited, there they may probably fuppofe the foul occafionally rcforts. And hence it may be inferred, that it is in the places made facred by the depofit of thefe relics, that the ceremony of chief mourner, habited in the parte, is per- formed ; whofc bufincfs it is to keep off the inqui- fitivc, and to maintain as far as poflible a profound filence over a certain fpace in which he parades, having a kind of mace, armed with iliark's teeth, borne before him by a man almoft naked, whofc duty is to aflail any one with this formidable weapon, who may have the temerity to venture within his reach. This may account for Why-' tooai difmclination to permit our gentlemen to vlfit the moral ; the apparently dcferted houfes ; and the apprehenfions of the guide, who ftartcd at the lead: interruption of the profound and fo- lemn fdcnce which prevailed in that neighbour- hood. CHAP. il:¥- ^791.'] ROUND THE WORLD. 295 CHAPTER VII. Two Natives pim'i/Jied for Theft — Ohfguies of Mahow — Several Articles fiolen — Meafnrcs for . ihe'ir Recovery — ; — Towereeroo the Sandivkh Iflaiider ahfconds — Drought back by Pomurrey — Sail from Matavai Bay — CharaSIer of Fo' murrey — His Wives — Changes in the Govern- ment of Otaheite jyironomical and nautical Ohfervations. m I ON tiic morning of Tuefciay the 1 7 th we were vifited by the youns; king, his uncles, and fcvcral other chiefs from Oparre. Two men had been detected in fleahng a hat from on board the Difcovery ; and, as fcveral other petty thefts had been committed at the encampment, I de- fircd the delinquents to be fent on fliore, that they might be punifhed in the prefence of their chiefs, and countrymen, which was done by Ihaving their heads, and bcftovving on each a flight manual corredion. ' i '.;:,np •: i • >■ . ; A meifagc was received from Pomurrey, re- quefting my attendance at Oparre, to " tiehahy* that is, to mourn fjr the death of Mahoiv. It was undcrftood to be much wilhcd, that w.e T4 /liould / ! i 2CK) A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEPA' [jAS. fliould be provided to fire fomc Vvollics ; and that I fliould prcll-nt, on this occafifni, a piece of red cloth as an offcrins^ to t!ie decealed. I was in- formed alfo that moll ot tlie neighbouring chiefs were to pay tlieir lad tribuce of refped to the re- mains of Ma/wiv, and that the ceremony would conlcquently be attended with many formalities; but on our arrival at Oparre there did not appear the leaft foundation for any fuch report. Mr. Broughton and Mr. Whidbey accompanied me. On our landing, we were conduced to a tempo- rary habitation o( Fo/nmreyy where we found him, his wives, and fillers, in readinefs to receive us. Some little concern was certainly apparent for the lofs of their friend and relation ; though very miccjual to the afllic^ion I expcdled to have wit- nclfcd, from the great care, and tender regard, manifefted to Mahow by the whole party when alive. The grief of thele people is of two de- fcriptions, natural and artificial ; it is exceflive on tht.^ fuir impulfe, but foon moderates and wears away. ' ■• . ' ' - ' • The corpfe was laid on the tapapaoo, which fecmcd to have been ered;ed for the exprefs pur- pofe about a quarter of a mile to the eaftward of the grand moral ; (or as it is called, '* tapoota- '* pootatca") and appeared to be then undergo- ing the lattfbr part of the embalming procefs, in the lame manner as dcfcribcd by Captain Cook in t| J 79--] ROUND THE W(>11LT>. '!{)} in tlic Inftiincc of Ttv. The body was cxpofcd to the fun ; and, on our approach, tlic covering was taken off, which exhibited the corpfe in a very advanced ftatc of putrefadion. The ikin flione very bright with the cocoa-nut oil, with which it had been anointed, and which, we un- derftood, was highly impregnated with ** aehigli,'* or fvvect-fcented wood. Orwe of the arms and a leg being moved, the joints appeared perfedly flexible. The extremely offenfive exhalations that were emitted, rendered it natural to conclude, that the whole mafs would foon be completely decompofcd ; but, if credit may be given to their aifertions, which were indubitably confirmed by the remains of Tee, and to which I could myfelf bear tcftimony, this will not be the cafe. Po- murrey informed us, the corpfe was to remain a month in this place ; then a month was to be en^ployed in its vifiting fome of the weftern dif- tric^ts ; after which it was to be removed to Tia- raboo for another month ; whence it was to be carried to Morca, and there finally dcpofitcd with bib forefathers in the morai of the family. In X\\c courfe of a few months after its arrival there, it would gradually begin to moulder away, but by fuch very flow degrees, that fevcral months would elapfe before the body would be entirely confumed. ' *' ' Tills method of embalming, or rather of pre- fer ving t 3{)8 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY fjAV, ferving human bodies, is certainly an objc6l ot great curiofity ; particularly, when it is confi- dered tluit is jx-ri'ornicd under the influence of a vertical fun ; lometlnies in the rainy lealbn ; and that the operators are totally ignorant of the pro- perties ot" fpiccs, frilts, 6ic. &c. as antil'eptics. Whether their preparations be Umple or com- pounded, or what may be the peculiarities ob- fcrved in the procefs, remains, I believe, intirely unknown to Europeans ; and it is much to be re- gretted, that their religious interdidlions precluded our attending the wJiole of thefe myfterious ob- icquies, as many veiTels may vifit this country without meeting fb favorable an opportunity, with pcrfons on board qualified and inchned to direct fuch enquires into etre(5l. The boat's crew were ranged before the pal- ing that encompalfed the tapapaoo ; the piece of red cl(jth was given to the widow, who ipread it over the dead body ; Ibme vollics were then fired, and I was directed to pronounce " Tera ?io oca MuJloWj' that is. For you Muho-iv. On fome rain falling, the body was taken under cover, and carefully wrapped up. We had but a few yards to retire to Pomurrcys habitation, where himfelf and family had taken up a temporary abode for this occafion ; but the exceedingly of- fenfive fmcll of the corpff: obliged us to proceed to an excellent new houfc of Whytooas, a little to I 1702.] roUND THR WORLD. CtpQ to tlic 'A cftward of Pomtiney\ tbrmcr habitation, wh).:h had been dcftroycd durino^ the late wars, 4ind had not been rebuilt ; nor did it appear that he had any other houfe at prcfent in this part of the di{l:ri(fl. Here we dined, and returned to Matavai with two large hogs, preicnted on this mournful occafion by the widow of Ma/iow. Our friends with their axes made lb little pro- grefs, that on the morning of Wednefday the 18th, I rcquclled Ump'tah would point out fuch trees as we might cut down onrfelves. This, with Whytooa\ afliftance, he fliortly did ; and we procured of the apple, and bread-fruit, fuf- ficient numbers to fupply our wants. Parties for this fervice were fent on Ihore, and the axes lent to the chiefs for this express purpofc, were di- rcded to be forthwith returned ; with which U)'' rip'uihy IVhytooa, and Poeno, immediately com- plied. The mourning for Maliow being now at an end, the royal females paid us a vifit, and returned after dinner to Oparre. Pomitrrey, his father, wives, brothers and fillers, with our fevcral friends, were again about us the next morning pcrfedly cheerful and in high fpirits. As Sun- day was now determined upon for our departure, the preceding evening was fixed for a further dif- play of fire-works, in which all our friends feemed to anticipate much plcafure. Pomurrcy returned in i ,• ' /' ' a (I ! ,'v 'I 30O A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY fjAW. the in evening to Oparre, lor the piirpofe of pro- curing us fiich fupplies as he thour^bt v.ould be acceptable previouily to our failing. A great number of prefents were received on board on the morning of Friday the 20th, con- fiding of hogs, fowls, goats,* roots and vege- tables, from our fcveral friends ; who had uni- formly conducted themfelves W'ith the greateft propriety, and who all appeared to regret that the period of our departure was now fo near at hand. In the midll of this happy intercourfe and defir- ablc harmony, a circumllancc unfortunately oc- curred, which occafioncd much concern. A bag, containing a large quantity of linen belonging to Mr. Broughton, had been artfully taken out of the marquee. Moi'mr, who had offered to be a cutter of wood, had neither fcnt any down fmce the firft or fccond dav» nor had he returned the axes with which he had been furniflied. This led me to fufpedl he intended fomething unfair ; of which, as well as of the theft, I acquainted UmplaJu who immediately replied he would go in qucft both of the axes and the linen. He feemcd, by no means, to be ignorant of the theft, and rcquciled I would apply to Whytooa, who, having in a more particular manner attached him- fclf to Mr. Broughton, was the mod proper per- •l i.f ■ * riocliitcd from tlie flock originally eflabliflicd by Cap- tion Cook. fon 301 1792-] KOUND THE WORLD. foil to exert himfclf on this occaiion ; efpcciallj as he had reafon to believe the linen had been taken to a part of the country where JVhytooas influence was very confiderablc. Several (liirts a\(o had been, the preceding evening, reported miiriiig from the people's tents ; but as circum- ilanccs induced me to believe the inhabitants were little concerned in their removal, no mca 13 were purfued for their recovery. Mr. Brough- ton's linen was, however, too ferious a lofs, and was a robbery too audacious to be paiTed over in iilence ; particularly, as it became evident the chiefs knew of the linen havincr been ftolen be- lore we difcovercd the theft ; Vv'hich was ftrongly fufped.ed to have been projecled by themfelves. Ump'mh had prepared a heavily clofe to the lines of the encampment, for our amuiement ; but, to ihcvv my difapprobation, I deemed it ex- pedient to forbid the performance, and told Vr- r'lpiah, that, whilll his people condu^l:ed them- lelves fo treacheroufly, the lefs connexion there iiibfillcd between us the more agreeable it would be ; and that, unlefs the articles purloined were immediately returned, I Inould be under the dif- agrccable neceffity, though greatly againft my inclination, of enforcing the reftoratk.)a of them by the adoption of very ferious meafures. On this he immediately departed ; and about noon returned with one of the axes, and faid that he had «l additional centinels were polled ; and, as a fum- mary and immediate punilhment when caught kl the fad:, feemed moll likely to prevent in fu- ture a repetition of crime, orders were ilfued to fhoot any perfon who might he found in the adt ot* ftealing ; but, on no pretence, to fire without the prefence of an officer, who had the ftridcll mjundioni. ifo be extremely circumfpcd. On s;oine; on board the next morning, (Satur- day the 2 1 ft) I had the additional mortification to underftand that a much more notorial circum- ftancc '-■•'3 1 'it y lyQI."] Hound THE WORLD. '3(53 ftance than the lofs of the Hncn had occurred to interrupt the harmony which had fo long fub- Med. -'■■'-■" ' ' '' '■'■'■■■' ■ ' ■■-■ • Towereroo the Sandwich iflander had, in the courfc ot' the preceding night, found means to dope trom the Ihip. Of this his intention, we had not for fome time been free of fufpicion ; but I did not like to impofe abfokitc confinement upon him without fome proof. He h-ad formed an attachment with the daughter of Pocno, the chief of Matavai, on whom, by examination, wc now found he had lavilhly beftowcd nearly all he had poilcflcd. This was of no fmall value, for, independent of his abundant outfit in England, many prcfcnts had been made him ; to which liis want of principle had added, by making too free with fome valuable articles belonging to the gunner, with whom he had mellcd previoufly to his departure, Towereroo was a boy of weak intellect, of a fuUen difpofition, and exceffivcly obflinate ; and though his condition was fo very fubordinate at the Sandwich iilands, that there was little probability of his fervices being imnor- tant to us or to our countrymen hereafter ; yet his example was a matter of fuch confcquence, as to render it highly expedient that his return fliould be infifled upon ; iell: the crew might fup- pofe I had not fufilclent influence with the chiefs to procure it, ?.ndfjmc of them be tempted to ubfcond ?ii *!?' ^ I; If I e"'«a(rfM If, i 304 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAKr. abfcond from the velTcls. On my return on lliore Pomurrey and his wives were at the encamp- ment, and feemed not at all ignorant of what had happened, therefore little explanation was neceil'ary. A fervant of Moenrc being fent for by Pomurrey f delivered the fame mcflage Urrl- piah had brought refpeding the wood axe, and with which Pomurrey requefted I would comply. I fliewed him the adz, but infifled on the refto- ralion of the axe before it ihould be returned. A fliort conference nov/ took place, on which he faid he would himfelf go for the wood axe, and gave dire<5lion5i that proper perfons Ihould be fent in queft of Towereroo, who he moft folemnly pro- mifed fliould be given up ; and added, that he would immediately take meafurcs for the reco- very of the linen, but requefting, as Urrip'hiJi had before done, that I would refort to Whytooa for this efpecial purpole, as it lay in his particular de- partment. About noon Pomurrey returned with the wood axe, and the adz was accordingly re- ftored to its owner. In the prefence of Taow his father, his two brothers, Poataiou, and fcveral other chiefs, Po- murrey inquired if, aii^rccably to my promife, I intended a difplay offirc-v.orks that evening; to •which I replied in the negative, and explained, that when that promife was made there was no rcufon to expect the treatment we had fnice ex- perienced. % i. *:;. [jASr. n fliore icamp- f what )n was Pent ibr t. Urn- :c, and omply. c redo- ne d. A liich he ie, and be fent ily pro- Lhat he ic reco- il// had tooa for ular de- xl with igly re- lis tw^o fs, Po- )niire, I Ing; to >kuned, \\ as no nee ex- icnced. •it 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. ; 305 "jperlenced, from thofe whofe duty it was to have obfcrvcd a very different conduct with refpecfl to the theft of the Hncn, and the elopement of To^ wereroo ; in both of which unpardonable tranfac- tions many of the principal chiefs were materially concerned Poww/w^inflantly replied, that Toive^ reroo (liould the next day be brought back, cither to the tents or to the Difcovery ; and, on inter- rogating him refpeding the linen, a very warm argument took place between the three brothers, in which Pomurrey in particular accufed Jf^hjy" tooa of a want of exertion and friendlhip on the occafion. In the courfc of this debate, the name of Arreheah was frequently mentioned ; and fo far as I could underftand, Pomurrey feemed con- vinced that he was very principally concerned. This man was an inferior chief in Hapino, one of the diftrid:s belonging to JVhytooa, who, as well as UrrlpiaJi, had recommended himfelf to our notice ; in confequence of which, he had lately been a conftant attendant on the encampment : a man, who had alfo been recommended by fome of the chiefs to affiil: in cooking, had been obfervcd with Arrclicak to have flept near the marquee on the night the robbery was commit- ted. On this circumftance being made knpwn to Pomurrey, he replied, that one, if not both, were certainly guilty. The dinner being now fcrved, ended the debate ; ^fter which the three Vol. I U brothers u I i 306 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAIf, brothers flillicd out in qucfl of the ftolen linen, and Toon returned with the fervant who had ab- sconded. On his being examined he accufed j^rreJieah as the thief; but being confcious of the robbery, he had fled, left he Ihould be fuf- pedcd and puniflicd. This man's evidence al- though tending to acquit himfelf, as the prin- c\\Yd\, clearly proved him an accomplice ; and, not being without my fufpicions that he was in reality the thief^ I ordered a halter to be put about his neck /"// terror em, and fent him on board the Ihip, there to be confined in irons ; with the alTurance, that if the linen was not rellored, he iliould certainly be hanged. A fliort debate, nearly to the fame purport, again took place between the three brothers, in which WJiytooii feemed much affecled by Po- murrey''s rebuke. As the thief was now known, 1 embruccd this occafion to inform the royal par- ly, that Aery confiderable prefents were intended to have been made to them and the fcveral chiefs; but not one fmgle article would be prcfentcd un- Icvfs Toiverrroo and Mr. Broughton's linen were forthcoming. On this they again departed, fay- ins: cr\ erv thin-*«v« v ,. i , ->„* a.<« ^i ?^-:' "* t ^m i-^'ju^tMtm ■• ■* 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 30^ to advance a few paces, when he again queftion- cd my pacific intentions, and whether I would confine him if he croiTed the river. After re- ceiving the moft unequivocal afl'uranccsof a con- tinuance of my friendfliip, and his own perfonal liberty, he difcngagcd himlclf from thofe who forcibly attempted to ftop him, and came over to us much againft the general voice and opi- nion of the multitude, who murmured excef- fively on the occafion ; but this fhortly fubfiding, his wives foon followed his example. I acquaint- ed Potmirrey with the detention of the canoe, and the man I had confined. The inftant he faw it was Boha, he aifured me he was innocent, and rcqucflcd he might be rcleafed ; and, as he had been arretted on fufplcion only, I did not hefitate to comply with the requeft of Poimirrey, who had gratified me exceedingly by the confi- dence he had fo recently repofed in my inte- grity. Our royal guefts became perfedtly reconciled, fpent the evening with us, and Hept in the mar- quee. Early on the morning of Sunday the 22d they departed. Tomurrey informed me, he was then going to Oparre inquefl of Toivereroo, who, it was reported, had fecreted himfelf in the moun- tains of that diilridl ; that in the courfe of the day he would be taken, and that, with him, he would return to Matavai ; he further added, that U 3 Whytooa u s ' ii 310 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVIKY [jAN'. IVhylooa was goin^ in fcarch of the linen, whieh would likcwife be rcllored, ! It was an cxceflkely mortif^ingrcfledion, now that wc were in every refpctft ready for fea, after having hved three weeks on terms of the ftridefl amity with thefe good people, thatjuft on the eve of our departure, they fhould fo conduft themselves, as materially to incur our difappro- bation and ccnfurc, and prevent our bidding them farcwel with that cordiality and good-will, to which they were fo highly intitled by their former good behaviour. Having nothing further to tranfad on fhore, every thing was fent on board excepting the marquee, at which, with a guard, Mr. I\iget re- mained for the more eafy communication with the chiefs, fliould they be inclined to renew their yifits; as no one perfonof any diflindion had ap- peared fmce the departure of Pomnrny in the morning. Mr. Broughton having ftrolled over the river, founc} If^hyiQoa in foft dalliance with his wife at home, inftead of being in fearch of the linen. Mr. Proughton invited them to the marquee, but Whytooa replied he was ** mattow- ed!' After fome perfuafion he complied, and haying come oppofite the encampment, he re- quefted fonic aiTurance of friendfhip on my part ; which being complied with, he confentcd, and having gained about the middle pf the river, he was hlcli ROUND 1MR WOULD. 311 !ii i/yi.] was compelled by the natives to return. Another converiiitionnow took place; and on Mr. liroi^gh- ton propofmg to remain with them during IV hy- tooas abfence, he came over, and being ioon re- conciled after his arrival, to his fituation, he fent a fervant to dcfire Mr. Jiroughton would cvoU the river. On this occafion JFhytooiis wile ac- companied him, and we afterwards went all on board to dinner. On nay enquiring, he faidPow/^r- ny and Urripiuk were at Oparre, but would return the inflant Towcrcroo was taken. With rcfpct^ to the linen I could gain no fatisfacStory account ; and, as 1 wiflicd to encourage him in the confi- dence he had manifefted, I did not think it riiilit to piifli this inquiry further ; wifliing to detain him and his wife, in cafe their imprifonment hereafter lliould be deemed neceflary to cff&d^ our purpofe ; but defilled from any further mea- fures, until I lliould fee or hear fomething of the other royal brothers. The canoe and goods wc liad arrelled the preceding evening now appearing to belong to a chief of Ulietea, who could not have had any concern in the late improper tranf* actions, juflice dictated its reftoration to the proper owner, and directions to that effed: were accordingly given. Neither Poumrrey nor Urripinh having arrived on the morning of Monday the 23d, Mr.Brough- ton propofed that IVhytooa i^nd his wife, who U 4 wcr<3 ^i I l\ll I ' ! J 311 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. were llill with us, (liould accompany liim to Oparrc, in order to procure an interview with Po' MurreVf and learn how our affairs ilood in that dirtricft. To this IFliytooa readily agreed, and "whilft the boat was preparing lor their c;onvey- ancc, the royal females paid us a vifit. They i'aid Pomurrey was flill at Oparre, but would return to the Ihip the inilant that Tozvenroo could be found. The ladies were immediately iufornKd of Mr. Broughton's errand, and told, that, until his return, they were to remain on board. With this arrangement they feemed perfedly fatisfied ; and from their mirth, and joking with each other as to their being carried to fea, their reccj)tion in England, &c. &c. I began to conjcdure that Tu- wereroo was in reality taken, though it was their pleafure to keep me in fufpence. We did not long remain in this (late. About noon, the boat returned with the three royal brothers, and To- xvereroo. Mr. Broughton met them on their way towards the fliips, attended by a fleet of ca- noes, laden with every fpecies of provifions as prefents from the royal family and our feveral other friends, who all flocked on board with fuch a profufion of their various valuable commodi- ties, that unable to difpofc of their bounty, fe- veral laden canoes returned to the fliore. Pomurrey and Urriptah obfervcd, on the deli- very of Towereroo, that they had now reftorcd every S 'I '» 17()2.] ROUND THE WORLD. 313 every thing in which they confidcrcd I was par- ticularly intcrcltcd, and that it was IVIiytonds bulincfs to recover the hnen for Mr. Broughton. jr/ivtooii protelled that, if vvc coidd remain until the morning, it Ihoukl certainly be brought on board ; but as wc had been repeatedly inllruded to place little reliance on aifurances of this nature, had the wind been favorable, wc Ibould not have waited to put his integrity to the tell. Foataton, with many other chiefs of the diflant diftrids, were m; de extremely happy by the pre- fents which each of them icceived ; and, finding we were to fail with the firft favorable wind, took their leave in the eveninj. with much ap- parent regret for our dcpartuic, which was evi- dently increafed by the.-; being difapjjt.inted of a Iccond difplay of fire- works. From the Inordi- nate love of pleafure which thefe people pollcfs, 1 do not believe it were poiTible to have caufed, by any other means, lo general and fo great a de- gree of mortification. Manv chiefs, and num- bers of the inhabitants, had come from the moft dillant parts of the illand, and from Morea like- wife, for no f/her purpofe than to gratify their curiofity, and to be prefent at the expeded exhi- bition. Thefe, in particular, complained much of thrii difappointment ; to which I replied, their concern was by no means unplcafant to me, as it gave me reafon to hope it would operate to pre- vent /';' I . '- ' ♦•( ..iSS.- 11 ''il "i K 314 A VOYAGR or DISCOVF.IIY [^.JA.V. vent the Caufe of it in future; and that, if thefts, and other breaches of confidence had not been committed, and iTindioned, as I was confident they had been by the chiefs themfelves, I fliould not have been under the painful neceifity of de- nying them the promifed entertainment, and \vc ihould have parted much better friends. On the arrival of another ilaip, I truftcd, from this difap- pointmcnt, they would all be taught to conduct themfelves with more fidelity. Fomnrrey and his wives remained on board all night. The next morning, Tuefday the 24th, brouglit no tidings of the linen. On reflecting that, without ufing rigorous mcafures, which, in all probability, would fall more on the innocent who were in our powxr, than on the guilty who were at a diilance, there did not appear the mod remote profpect of regaining this property; and as we had now a favorable breeze from the eall- Avard, and could ill afford a longer detention, about ten in the forenoon we liiiled out of the b-?V' Poiuurrev and his w ives were our guefts until ue were beyond the reefs: they were now prc- fented ^vith an alfortment of valuables, which atfordcd them the highell fatistaction ; and Po- murrcv rcuuelling as a particular fa\or that they might be fahitcd on leaving the fliip, they took a vcrv fncndlv and affectionate leave, and were complimented agreeably to his wiflies. JVhytooa * had .,1 i ^ MSi^, 4- .I.W. lefts, been dent pould dc- d vvc 1 the fap- dua 1792.3 ROUND THE WORLD. 315 had alfo accompanied Mr. Broughton in the Chatham ; who, after v\e were out, brought him on board the Difcovery, with an affortment of fuch articles as he conceived Whytooa intitled to, for his hofpitable attention, and the large quan- tity of provifions, &c. &c. which he had fupplied, without having as yet received the leaft return : but as I had repeatedly declared IFhytooa fhould receive no prefent, unlefs the linen was reftorcd, my ultimate dccifion was now requefted. On confidering, that polfibly it might not have been in his power to recover the linen, and that equity demanded he fliould be paid for the fupplics which he had furnifhcd, I confented to his re- ceiving in return, fuch articles as were deemed lliirly equal in point of value ; but he was not prefentcd with any thing from me, although I had promifed him feveral valuable implements. Thcfe were again enumerated, the reafon of their being with- held fully explained, and fliewn to have arifen from his not having ad:ed towards Mr. Broughton with that propriety, which had been obferved in the conduc^l of his royal brothers towards me. ■ ' -'i I am well aware that our vifit to this country will fill the inquifitive mind with the expedation of acquiring much additional information, rela- tive to a people whofe fituation and condition have been long the fubjec^s of curious invcftiga- , tion ; i I ! i % . i •! ;;;__ II II... IW . )l ^'^ 31 6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAN. tlon ; but the fhortncfs of our ftav, and various concurring circumftanccs afForcicd little opportu- nity to gratify fuch ddircs. ' '• ' ' The veneration thefe people entertain for the names ot their fbvereigns, has been already very juflly related by Mr. Andcrfon. But no example, I bel'cvc, had then appeared to that judicious obferver, of the extent to which this rcfpect is carried. On Otoo\^ acceffion to the Maro,* a "very confiderable alteration took place in their language, particularly in the proper names of all the chiefs, to which however it was not Iblcly confined, but extended to no Icfs than forty or fifty of the mofl common words which occur in convcrfation, and bearing not the Icaft affinity whatever to the former expreffions. . This new language every inhabitant is under the neceffity of adopting ; as any negligence or contempt of it is punifhed with the greateft fc- \erity. Their former expreffions were, however, retained in their recollection ; and for our better communication, were, I believe, permitted to be ufed in convcrfation with us, without nicurring difplealurc. Potnurny however would frequently correct me on my accidentally ufmg the former mode of expreffion, faying, I knew it w as wrong, and ought not to practife it. Were fuch a per- nicious innovation to take place, generally, at the * Or girdle of loyalty. arbitrary S-rO*^ ?f: cntly 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 3! 7 arbitrary will of the fovercigns throughout the South-Sea Iflands, it would be attended with in- lurmountable difficulties to ftrangers ; but it ap- pears to be a new regulation, and, as yet, con- lined to thele iflands, or it would be impoffible to reconcile the affinity which has been hitherto found to fubfift in the language of different parts of the Great South- Sea nation. The new-fa- fliioned words produce a very material difference in thofe tables of comparative affinity which have been conftructed with lb much attention and labour ; and may, poffibly, when the rcafons for the alteration arc known and developed, be a matter of interefling political inquiry. This, however, required more leifurc, and a more inti- mate knowledge of the language, than I poflcff- ed. Circumftances of greater importance to the expediting the various ferviccs here, which the grand objed: of our voyage demanded, and on which my mind was every hour anxipufly en- gaged ; augmented by the difficulties we had to encounter, in the new modification of fo many- terms, rendered mofl of my inquiries ineffedlual. Thcfe perplexities and difadvantages were alfo materially increafed, by the difficulty of obtain- ing the truth from a race who have a conitant defire to avoid, in the flightcft degree, giving of- fence ; infomuch, that, on the leaft appearance of difpleafurc, even in convcrfation, to difcngagc thcmfelvcs ri'i 4 *i»^' ^- ^,1 318 A VOYAGfi OP DISCOVEnY fjAW, themfelves from any fuch inconvenience, they would often, by that cxtcnfive and fpacious comprehenfion, which their language admits of, icemingly fo quality, what they before had af- lerted, as to contradict, according to our accepta- tion, a poiitivc matter of fad ; or, what amounted to nearly the fame thing, a completely different conftrudion was by us very frecjucntly put on a fecond converfation, from that which we had conceived from, or had attributed to, the firft. Had wc been more competent linguifts, we might, in all probability, have found both their modes of expreflion tending to the fame point, and differing only in the figr.rative relation of the circumilanccs, to which thcfc people are much accuftomcd. This deception I have more than once experienced, and have on reflexion, thus re- conciled the apparent incongruity. Such, and various other important circumftances mull ever occur, to render the acquirement of knowledge in the language, manners, and culloms, of ncvv- ly-difcovcred countries (beyond a certain fuper- ficial extent) a bufmefs of much labour and ftudy, although aided by a feries of minute obfervations. Under fuch evident di fad vantages, how far my abilities might or might not have empowered me to direct fuch inquiries to effed, had time and other objects permitted, muft ftill remain to be proved. I fliall therefore refign the palm to thofc JNi-^ ^, >««>"»*'- ?, they "pacious nits of, had af- ccepta- lounted lifFerent ut on a vse had he flrft. fts, we th their ) point, [\ of the I much >rc than thus re- :h, anJ ull ever jwled which on moll occafions is the governing prin- ciple in the conduct of thefe iilandcr?, with her was totally difregarded ; and indeed, fuch was her very amiable difpofition, that it counterba- lanced any difad vantages fhe might labour under in a deficiency of perfonal attractions. The portrait of Fkr re te on canvas would mod probably be generally thouglit intitled to a pre- ference ; yet (lie appeared by no means to poflcfs either mental endowments, or other excellent qualities, in the fame degree with the queen- mother ; if file had them> they were latent, and required fome particular exertion to bring them into action. Her foftnefs and effeminr.cy af- forded her fome advantage over her fifter ; yet there was a fhynefs, want of confidence and man- ner in her general demeanor, that evinced her motives to be lefs difniterelled. We were how- ever led to believe, that Ihe was not dellitute of the amiable qvialities, though to us they did not' appear fo confpicuous as in the character of the Vol. I. X queen- V \% ' \ ■"k»- ..•'-•' 1792.] ROUND THf WOULD. 325 lead appearance of dlfaftcdion or revolt, to be at hand for purfuing fuch meafures as mav be re- quired to bring them back to their obedience. Whytooa, the next brother, refides for the Hkc rcafon at Oparrc, near the young monarch ; and Pomiirrty with his wives has retired to M(jrea, where the inhabitants are, in all refpeds, perfectly reconciled ; firmly attached to his Interell ; and ready to afford hirn and his children every fup- port and afliitan'^e they may require. From the relative situation of this illand with Otaheite, there is but little probability that Poviurrcy could long remain ignorant of any diffentions that might take place, or that he would be prevented afford- ing fuch fuccour as the nature of the occalioa might demand. There is yet a fourth brother whofe infignifi- cance has hilierto precluded his name, which is Tapalioo, from appearing in any ot our tranfag- tions with thefe worthy people. Although in the poffeffion of a very confiderable property, Tapa- lioo fecms little regarded by his family, and lefs cffeemed by his people. This want of refped is greatly, and poffibly wholly, to be attributed to a natural imbccillity of mind ; as, to all appear- ance, he is a young man of an exceedingly weak and trifiini)!; charac^tcr. On the late deceafe of Mahow, his daughter by PQmi(ncy\ filler fuccccdcd to the fovcreignty Xa of I . f '*! il 326 A VOYAGE '>p DISCOVERY [jAN. of Morca, under l.'i ■ Supreme authority of her coufin Oioo. To this yimng princcfs Pomurrey became regent, and in courlc, the inhabitants of Morea were intircly at his command. In con- fequcncc of Pomnrrey\ connexion w ith Mahow\ family, his fon Otoo in right of his mother was acknowledged as the fupreme Ibvercign of Hua- hcine ; and Matuano the king of that ifland, had confcnted to the fuperiority of Otoo over him, as " Arce Maro Eoora ;" but that he Matuano was ** Arcc de Hoi." Oniai having died without children, the houfc which Captain Cook had built for him, the lands that were purchafcd, and the horfc which was ftill alive ; together with fuch European com- modities as remained at his death, all descended to MatuarrOy as king of the ifland ; and when his majefty is at home, OmaW houfe is his conflant refidcnce. From Matuarro we learned, that Omni was much rcfpctfied, and that he frequently af- forded great entertainment to him, and the other chiefs, with the accounts of his travels, and de- fcribing the various countries, objects, &c. that had fallen under his obfcrvation ; and that he died univerfally regretted and lamented. His death, as weji as that of the two New Zealand boys left with him by Captain Cook, was occa- Aoned by a diforder that is attended by a large iiwelling in the throat, of which very few reco- ver, 1792.] ROUND THl WOHLl). 32? ver, but die a flow lingering death. Durintr the hitter part of our (lay fcvcral pcrlons were pointed out who fcemed much afflided with this fatal malady, particularly thofe belonging to Tiarahou, who faid the difcafe had been imported by a Spa- nilh vefTel which had anchored near the fouth part of Otaheitc. Otoo, in right of his grandmother by his fa- ther's fide, on the death of Mowrce will claim the Ibvereignty of Ulietca and Otaha. Mowre^, who is brother to Pomurrey\ mother, is an Erceoi of an advanced age. He fecmed extremely fond of Otoo, and proud of his fucceedlng him in the government of thofe iflands ; faying, that, at prc- fent, there were two fovereigns, that ** Maw ta Tartar but when he iliould die then there would be but one, meaning Otoo. This expreflion, in its literal fignification, means " to eat the Man\' the idea, however, which in this fenfe it is in- tended to convey, is to point out thofe, whofe rank and authority entitle them to prefide at hu* man facrifices ; a power which at prefent is pofr fefled only by Mowree and OtoQ. In confequcnceof the extenfivc dominion that has devolved upon this young monarch, he is not now diftinguiflied by the title of Aree de Hoi, but by one wliich is confiderably more eminent and comprehenfivc ; fince they fay there may be many Arees dcHo'i, but there can be but one Aree Mara X 4 Poora-f n ■ i •^•W'^IV-*^' / I li 328 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEKY [jAN. Eooni : which means the chief of tlie red fea- thered Alaro ; and under which title, Otoos authority is acknowledged in Otaheite, Morca, Mattca, Tetero, Tupea-mannoo, and Huahcinc. But the people of Ulietca and Otaha, feetii much averfe to this fubmifTion ; and it does not appear, that even Mowrec himfelf has much influence in thofe iflands, notwithllanding that he is their ac- knowledged fovei ^ign. Since the death of Opoonyy the government of the iilands under his late au- thority appears to have been ill adminillered ; the inhabitants having been very turbulent and much difpofed to anarchy : and in confequcnce of the difniclination which the people of thcfe jHands have manifefted to fubfcribe to the fu- prcme authority of Qtoo^ an expedition was in contemplation from Otaheite, to enforce the povter of the Arcc Maro Eoara over them, and little doubt was entertained of its fuccefs. Ano- ther favorite objcd: was the annexing to Otoo\ prefent dominions by conquell, (for no right was fet up) the iflands of Bolabola, Mowrooa, and Tapi, which, fincc the death of Opoojiy, had been governed by his daughter, and were faid, in a great meafurc, to have loil their former high re- putation as a martial and warlike nation. ■ Pomnrrcy and his brothers having procured from the vellels which had lately vifited Otaheite, Icvcral mulkcts and pillols, they confidcrcd them: .... iclves Jl! Wk 179*2.] ROUND THE WORLD. 329 fclvcs invincible ; and the acquiring of new pol- icffions for Otoo, now fccmcd to occupy the whole of their fludy and attention. They were extremely folicitous that I fliould contribute to their fuccefs by augmenting their number of fire- arms, and adding to their ftock of ammunition. Of the latter I gave Pomurrcy a fmall quantity ; but of the former I had none to difpofe of, even if I had fecn no impropriety in complying with his rcqucft. Finding there was no profped; of incrcafmg their armory, they requeiled that I would have the goodnefs to conquer the territo- ries on which they meditated a defcent, and hav- ing lo done, to deliver them up to Otoo ; and as an excufe for their fubjugation, infilled that it was highly ciTential to the comfort and happinefs of the people at large, that over the whole group of thefe illands there Ihould be only one fove- reign. On fatisfying them that the iflands in quellion were quite out of my route, and that I had no leifure for fuch an cnterprize, Povmrreyt in the moll earnell manner requelled, that on my return to England 1 would, in his name, Iblicit his Majelty to order a fliip with proper force to be immediately fcnt out, v.'ith dliedions, that if all thofe illands were not fubjedcd to his power before her arrival, Ihe was to conquer them for Otoo ; who, he obfer\ ed, I well knew would ever be a Heady friend to King George and the Eng- lifli. i : ml * * >' . il ti f ■ 1 ' ■1 •■ m-] l| 330 A VOYAGE OB' DISCOVERY [jAST. llfh. This requcft was frequently repeated, and he did not iail to urge it in the mod prelTing manner at our parting. I cannot take leave of my friend, for to fuch an epithet from me Pomnrny's condnS: juftly en- titles him, without adverting to the alteration which feemed to have taken place in his charac- ter, fmce my former vifits to this country. At that time, he was not only confidered as a timid, but a very weak prince ; on this occafion, how- ever, he did not appear deficient either In dif- cernment, or intrepidity ; although it muft be acknowledged his fears were exceedingly awaken- ed at the difplay of our fire- works, and that he always appeared to regard fire-arms with a con- fiderahie degree of terror ; which poffibly might arife from his knowledge of their de{l:ru(^live }X)vvers, wlnJfl at the fame time he remained ig- norant of thccAtc.h; J v.hich they were capable of doing execullon ; but this dcfcription of wea- pons out of the qucftion, we had reafon to be- lieve his coiirasTc was equal to that of his neigh- bours, of which he ccrtainlv gave an undeniable proof by joining our party alone and unarmed at the encampment ; in direct oppofition to the counlel and apprehenfion^ of his furrounding countrymen. On former occafions, I had alio confidered his general character to be haughty, aufterc, and combined with much low cunning. When ' fi' I 1792-]] ROUND THE WOULD. 331 When he condefcendeJ to fpeak, or convcrfe, which was not frequent, little or no information could be derived ; whllll the quellions he afked in return, did not tend to the acquifition of ufe- ful knowledge. His conducl and deportment on the prefent occafion, were extremely different; and, when compared with that of his aflbciates, were marked with an evident fuperiority, expref- iive of the exalted iituation he filled ; and indi- cated that he pollcfled a jud knowledge of him- felf, and an open, generous, and feeling heart. In converfation, there were few from whom bet- ter information could be acquired ; nor was he now deficient in directing his obfervations and enquiries to ufeful and important objcds. For this purpofe only, he would remain w hole days in our working tents, obfcrving with vhe rtri{i:l:e{l attention the different tranfadions going forward; and frequently interrupting the mechanics, to require explanations of tlicir feveral operations. The whole , caor of his behaviour towards us was fo uniformly :orre<5l and meritorious, that, on his taking lca\c, 1 coviid not rcfift making him, and his V. i'cs. Inch ^cknowlcdjjrmcnts in ulcful arti- c!cs, as he conceived they could have no poffiblc claim to ; and fufpecting 1 was about to make lome addition, he caught my arm, expreffed how: highly repaid and gratified they were with what they had received, and obferved, as i was going to ! '1/ ■V V. \\ i t'V 332 A VOYAGE OF DISCOYEKl [jAX. to vifit many other countries where fuch things would be equally valuable ; 1 ought to be careful and oeconomical. How far theCe difinterefted fentiments had ac- tuated the conducfl of the royal party in all their former tranfa(5tions, is not ealy to ascertain ; but certain it is, they took great pains to keep up the value of our commodities, and, by their own example, cliablilhed the price of three large hogs, weighing from an hundred to an hundred and fifty and two hundred pounds each, at an axe ; under which they defued we would not part with our axes; and would frequently admonifli us, when they confidered we were about to j^ay ex- travagantly for our purchafes. In our traffic, axes were the moll valuable ; next to thefe, red cloth, and all kinds of European linen ; files, knives, and filliing hooks, were in great requeft ; as were iciffars and looking-glalfes by the ladies; nails were of little value, and fuch things as were only of an ornamental nature were accepted with irditferencc, red feathers excepted, which I -c- iieve would ftill find a read}- market. So important are the various European imple- ments, and other commodities, now become to the happinefs and ' >mforL of thefe illanders, that 1 cannot avoid relieving with Captain Cook on the very deplorable condition to which thefe good people on a certainty muft be reduced, fliould their fl ?. 179'2.] nOUND THE WORLD,' '333 their communication with Europeans be ever at an end. The knowledge they have now acquired of the fuperiority and the lupply with which they have been furniflicd of the more ufcful im- plements, have rendered tlicie, and other Euro- pean commodities, not only eflentially ncccllary to their common comforts, but have made them regardlefs of their former tools and manufactures, which are now growing fall out of ufe, and, I may add, equally out of remembrance. Of this we had convincing proof in the few of their bone, or fi:onc tools, or utenfds, that were feen amonsfft them ; thofc offered for fale were of rude work- maniliip, and of an inferior kind, folely intended for our market, to be purchafed by way of curio- fity. I am likcwife well convinced, that, by a very fmall addition to their prcfcnt ftock of Eu- ropean cloth, tlie culture of their cloth plant, which now ieems much ncglcdcd, will be in- tirely difregardcd, and they will relv upon the precarious fupply which may be obtained from accidental vifitors, for this and m.anv others of th<' molt unportc'.iit rcquifi'ccs of ibcial life. Under tliefc painful confiderations, it mani- fcllly appear.'J that Europeans are bound by all the laws of humanity, rc«i;ular]y to furniOi thofe w^'intswhk'h tlicy alone have created; and to af- ford the inhabitants from time to time fupplies of fuch important ufcliil articles as ha\c been al- ready (V,. I' \ 7 \ 1 1 '.! 1^ 334 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY fjANi ready introduced, and which having excluded their own native manufacl:ures, are, in moll rc- fpccts, become indifpenfably neceflary to their whole ceconomy of life : in return for which a valuable confideration would be received in pro- vifions and rcfrefliment.,, highly beneficial to the traders who may v:{." the Pacific Ocean. The various manufadurcs in iron and in cloth have become fo ciTentially rcquifite to their com- mon concerns, that inftcad of thefe commodities being reduced in their value by the frequent vifits of Europeans, or their fupplies of food and re- frelliments being lefs plentiful in return, we were ierved with every article in the greatell profufion. Six hogihcads of very fine pork were cured ; and had we been better provided with fait, we might have fecured ten times that quantity ; and failed with a large fupply for prefent ufe, which com- prehended as many live hogs and vegetables, as we could find room to difpofi* of; the whole pro- cured at leaft 200 percent, cheaper than on any of Captain Cook's vifits, notwithftanding the re- cent dcpart\ire of the Pandora. Great alteration has taken place in the military operation; of thefe people. On our firft difco* very of thefe illands their wars were principally of a maritime nature ; but at prefent it fliould fecrii they were conduiSlcd in a very different manner. For although ibmc of our gentlemen extended J'4^':.; I 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 335 extended their cxcurlions to a confiderable dif- tance, not a iingle war canoe was fccn belonging to Otaheitc. 1 had much converlatlon with Ur- rtptali on this lubjed ; fmrn whom 1 learned, that in their late contefts they had found them fo un- manageable, particularly when the wind blew at all flrong, that they had intirely given them up, and now carried on their cnterprizes by land, ufnig the larger fort of their common canoes, when their wars were offenfive, to convey them to the place of their dellination, which was ge- nerally clTfcdled under cover of the night, or in dark rainy weather. The youth of Otoo authorlfes us to fay little more, than that he bore every appearance of be- coming a very promifing man. Some circum- ftances attendant on this young monarch were fo very peculiar and extraordinary, as to make a few obfcrvatioiis, nidilpcnfable. Amongft the firft was the curious reftridion which prohibited his entering any of our habitations. His father, when OloQ, and kins" of the llland, was under ik) fuch interdi(;:lion ; but, as frccivntlv as his inclina- tion prompted, vifited our fni^^vs and tents with- out attaching the inconvo^tieiicc \\hich would now have fallen upon the people had the young king done the lame. Nor was the grandfa:her Taow then treated with thatdcirree of obedience und refped, which is at | refent paid to him on ail i , ' ,1 ', f 336 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jv\N". all occafions. The origin of the above myftcrious rcftraint, or the rcafoning on which it has been founded, I could not fatisfadlorily learn. The refult, however, of my enquiries on this head induces me to believe, that a ceremony veryfimi* lar to the Natc/ie of the Friendly iflands defcribed by Captain Cook, on Poulahou\ fbn being per- mitted to eat in company with his father, will be performed here. This ceremony will occupy a confiderable fpace of time, after which he will no longer be carried on men's fliouldcrs, but be at liberty like others to walk about ; but when this was to take place in refpcifl of Oioo, I could not difcover ; for as often as the qucftion was put, fo often the period when the event was to take place varied. It was likewife very remarkable, that we never flivv any perfon of confequence or refpedtability about the young monarch. His neareft relations, though they paid all refpcd: to his high office, did not appear to regard or con- verfe with him ; and thofe vvhofe duty it was to attend him on his journics between Oparre and our encampment, were icrvants from the lowed order of the people. Amongll thefc was a man named Petcrrah, who ajiparentjy was a very flirewd, fcnfible fellow, on whofc ihouldcrs the young king never rode, but who, on all occafions a ■ « . ^|.. r-|||j||-)| ^^ ■•«&*-' 1792^.] ROUND THE WORLD. 33Ci ment of garden feeds ; but as nature has been fo Very bountiful in the variety of vegetables Ihc has beftowed on this country, the natives loem to poflels little defire for any addition ; and, if a judgment is to be formed, by the deplorable ftate in which we found the leveral fpots where foreign plants arid feeds had been depofitcd, we had little reafon to be fanguine in the fuccefs of o^u gar- dening. Nor do I believe fuch attemp*":'* vvlll ever fucct until fomc Europeans fhal! remain on the mand, and, by the force of their example, excite in the inhabitants a defirc of cultivating]!; the foil by their manual labour, to which at prefent they are almolt Grangers. The ava, and the cloth plant in a fmall pro- portion, arc the only vegetables which the Ota- heiteans take the leaft trouble to cultivate. Some few indifferent fiiaddocks, a little tolerably good maize, a few pods of the capficon> and fome very coarfe radiflics, were the only produ(flions I faw from the various and nunrierous vesretable exotics, that, from time to time, have been introduced iiito th's ifland. The milk of goats not having been appropri- ated to any ufe, and the animal not being fuffi- ciently fat for the talle of thefe people, thev have fallen into difrepute, and become fcarce. I col- lefted, however, a fufficient number to eflablilh a Y 2 breed \' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TAKGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I .25 ^KiS iigg ii& 1.4 6" 2.0 1.6 V ^^ 'V Photograpliic Sciences CorporaHon ¥^ V ^ ^^ is \ ^. 6^ '"^^^ 23 WIST MAIN STRilT WEBSTIR.N.Y. MSSO (71«) •72-4503 '^ "V « ■<^ :' /* 1 ;° 30' 2(y' 34a A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [jAKP. breed of thofc anl mills on the Sandwich iflands, in cafe I fliould there find them acceptable to the inhabitants. Tiic few aftronomlcal and nautical obferva- tions, here made, tending only to our own ufeful and necefTary purpofes, will conclude our tranf- ad:ions at Otahcite, and are as under, viz. Eighteen fets of meridian ob- fervations of the zenith diftances . . of the fun and ftars, gave the latitude of the obfervatory by their mean refult — Its longitude, by the chrono- meter, allowing the Duiky bay rate, to the igth of January at noon — — — Its longitude to the fame time, allowing the Portfmouth rate Its longitude by eighteen fets of diftances, by my fextants, of : « a<>, eaftofher — — 210 31 53 Its true longitude, as determin- ed by Captain Cook — 210 2415 By our obfervations made at the obfervatory the firft day, viz. the 7th of January, on allow- ing the Duiky bay rate, tlic chronometer gave the longitude 209° 55' 45", from which day to the 10th infliant inclufivc, being twelve days obferva- tions 209 58 211 18 1792'] ROUND TllK WOULD. 341 tlons of equal altitudes it was found gaining at the rate of 4" 'l'" per day, and fall of mean time at Greenwich, on the 20th at noon, 31^ -12" -iO'". Allowing the chronometer this error, and the above rate of jroin^i; fmce we difcovercd the ifland of OparrCjthe dift'ercnce of the longitude betvsecn it and point Venus, will hyfuch meansbeS^ 14'-ir>'' weft, and confequcntl)' its longitude, by that mode <.^f calculating, would be 21.5° 39'; my ob- fervations liowever place it in 215° W6' '1^"\ the mean between the two 215'^ 13' -lo", I (liould fuppofc can be liable to little, it" any error ; and as fuch I HkiII adopt it for the true longitude of that ifland. This is further authorifcd on find- ing, that by nearly the fame number of obferva- tions, made with the fame inftrun^nts at point Venus, and the (ww on the fame fide the moon as when the obfervations were taken off Oparre, I placed that point /'' 38' to the caftward of the trutli. Mr. Arnold's chronometer on board the Chat- ham, v/hen taken to the obfervatory, was found to be faft of mean time at C;recnwich on the 20th of January at noon 2° 1(/ 25'' iC'', and to be gaining at the rate of Kj" 51 "' 2 1 "' p.er day. The variation of the magnetic needle, with all our cards, and compalfes, in fifteen fets of azi- muths, varied from 7° 3o' to 5" 3u' call varia- y 3 tion. i F^'U, 34^2 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [jAN. tlon, giving their mean refult 0" 12^ and the vertical incllncition as under : Marked end, North face Eaft, Ditto ditto Weft, Ditto South, face Eaft, Ditto ditto Weft, The mean vertical inclination of the fouth point of the dipping needle 30" 15' 31 13 30 43 30 47 30 53 t) !V 'M CHAPTER It ,«•■>.•-■•—'» »..-.f :.. mm\ ... .u.' ^«"« « »— ■■ > ■ ** ' 1792.] ROUXD THE WOELD. 343 BOOK THE SECOND. VISIT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS; PltOCEKD TO SUR- ' VEY THE COAST OF NEW AL1510N ; PASS TIIKQUGII AN INLAND NAVIGATION; TRANSACTIONS AT NOOTKA ; ARRIVE AT POUT ST. FRANCISCO. CHAPTER I. Fajfage to the Sandw'ich IJlands — Arrive off Owhyliee — Vijitfrom T'lanna and other Chiefs — Leave Toivereroo at Owhyhee — Proceed to Leeward — Anchor in Wliytetc Bay in Waohoo — Arrival at Attozvai. OUR friends having quitted us foon after noon on Tuefday the 24th, we directed our courfe to the northward, and notwithftanding w^e had now been nearly ten months abfent from England, it was not until the prcfcnt moment that our voyage could be cofidcred as con menc- ed ; having now for the firll time pointed our vcllels' heads towards the grand objcd of the ex- pedition. I cannot help mentioning that I felt, on this occafion, very confidcrable regret for the little progrcfs we had hitherto mauc. It was flow within a few days of the time I had calcu- y 4 luted. i) i t; 344 A VOYAGE OF DTSCOVEUY [jAN. latcd, agreeably to the arrangements in England, that we fliould be qulttln2; the Sandwich iflands which were yet at the remote diilance of nearly ciglit hundred leagues. One fatibiadory reflec- tion however was, that we had not been retarded by any mif'pcnt time, or inexcufable delays; and that although a month had been devoted to the examination of the fouLh- well part of New Hol- land, that period was, without doubt, not unpro- fitably employed. Adverfe winds, and the in- different failing of the veiTcls had principally ope- rated to prevent our being further advanced. A light eaftwardly breeze brought us in the afternoon within fight of Titeroa, and at fun-fet that illand bore by comj)afs from N. by W. to N. by E.; Otahcite S. E. to S.; and MoreaS. S.W. to S.W. Our DroG;refs was fo flow that, at noon on Wednefday the LTith, wx' obferved in lati- tude 17" r, ?vIorca bearing by compafs from S. 24 W. t(j S. 8 W. ; Otaheite from S. 11 E. to S. -11 E. aiiu Titeroa from N. 85 E. to N. -J 5 E. about three or four miles diflant. Some of the inliabitants vifited us from this ifland, and brought a few fowls, lii'h, and cocoa nuts to barter. The weather falling calm, and the fliip drifting fall in with the land, we were employed until fun fet in towins her from it. At this time a li";ht breeze fpringing up from the fouth the boats were taken on board, and all fail made to the northward ; .i^t ROUND THE WORLD. 315 all: fun rht kits he 1792.] northward ; but fo tardily did we proceed that, on Friday the 27th, in the morning, Otahcitc and Morea vserc ftill in fight aftcrn. We continued moving at this gentle rate initll Wedncfday the ]ll of February, at which time we had reached only the latitude of 13^ di! , longitude 20y" 53\ The wind had been variable, though chiefly from the eailern quarter, with tolerably fair weather. From this period our progrefs was fomewhat ac- celerated. \Vc were daily vifited by numerous birds, which inhabit the low half drowned iflands ()( this ocean, varying in their kinds as well as numbers, imtil Wednefday the 8th, when, in latitude -l" 3(3', and longitude 209" 15^ they appeared to have intirely deferted us. During this laft week the weather had been clear. thoua;h very fultry, with a moderate breeze between the E. N. E. and N. N. E. The dead reckoning had hitherto \aried about half a degree only to the VN eftv\ ard ot" the chronometer ; but as we now advanced, we found a very ftrong weftwardly current, which alFeded us fo much, that when we readied the equator, which was about noon on Sunday the 12th, our longitude by account was 2HJ' ar/, although by the chronometer we v.ere llien in 20/'' 38' only. This afternoon, Wedncfclay the 1/ith, a few birds were again feeii about the Ihip ; the winds and weather continued nearly the fame, attended v>ith a heavy north- warlyd i ^ h f i o-lf) A VOYAGE OP DISCOVKRY [PEB. Twardly fvvcll, which continued to be very unplcar fant, and generally from the N. E. After crof- fing the line, the current feemcd to fet to the north-wcftvvard, until in latitude -l" 5i' north,* longitude by the chronometer 20l" 4' , by the dead rcchonins:, 'JOif 2'2\ which proved, that iince we had entered the northern hcmifpherc, we had been f'ct, in the conrre of three days, 81^ to the vvclhvard, and .'')()' to the north. From this point the current ccafed to fet to the weft- ward, but continued its northern direcflion, in- clininir a little to the eaft, at the rate of four to five leagues per day. Several birds, which had been our conftant attendants iince the 12th, be- came very fcarce after this evening. The trade wind between N. E. and E. N. E. blew a frefh gale. The weather in general was clondy, with fqualls, accompanied with a very heavy fea from the eaftvvard. The fky, on the morning of Thurfday the lOth, being tolerably clear, I was enabled to ob- tain fix fcts of diftances of 1 a <;), the mean refult of which gave the h.ngitude L'ol" ^/ 53", the chronometer flicwed 201'' 0' 15'; latitude if IV. Very few birds were now to be feen ; but in the morning one or two turtles were obferved. The wind prevailing to the northward of N. E., rcu- * "^riie latitude is hereafter to be cunfideicd as north lati- tude until it fhall be othcrways indicated. dered 179'^'2 BOUND TIIR WORLD. 34? dcrcd our reaching the Sandwicli iflands, without being firft led a confidcrablc diilancc beyond them, a very doubtlul circumltance. This in- duced me to take advantage! of the current, which Hill continued to fet to the northward ; and by {landing to the eaftward or northward as the wind veered, on Thurfday the 23d we reached the latitude of 12" 18^ the longitude by the chronometer 203" lO', and by the dead reckon- ing 207 ' 12^ The wind now blew a moderate breeze moftly from the ealtward ; which per- mitted us to make a courfe a little to the c.aft- ward of north. On Sunday the 20th, the mean refult of fix fets of diftances (^slO gave the longitude at noon 203" -^18', the chronometer 203° lO, by the dead reckoning 208"^ 23S the latitude 15° 25'. The wind, which was light, continued be- tween the eaft and N. E. attended with a hol- low rolling fwell from the N. W. On Wed-, nefday the 20th, in latitude 1/" 2L', longitude 203" 30', after a few hours calm, towards fun- fet a breeze fprang up from the N. W. We now fi"ood to the N. N. E.; which courfe, by day-light on Thurfday the ift of March, brought us in fight of Owhyhee, bearing by compafs from, north to N. by E. about twenty-four leagues diftant. The order for prohibiting general trade with the m I TTt,, V 348 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [MARCH, the Indians was ai:;aln read to the fliip's com- pany. A particular attention to fuch regulations with pcrfons circumllanced as wc we were, was not only of material importance, but was abfo- lutcly indiCpcnfaWc. As the day advanced, which was delightfully plcallint, the wind gr;;dually veered round to the north- callvvard, whicii enabled us fhortly ati.er noon to ftcer for the Ibuth point of Owhyhee, then beariiig by compafs N. S W. 1-1 leagues diftant. Our latitude was now 1 8" 9' , longitude per dead reckoning I'Ofj" 33'; by the chrono- meter 20-i' 19', v.hich latter is to be received as the true longitude, notwithftanding the diffe- rence of 5" 1-1; for fo much had wc been affed:ed by wcilern or lee currents, in performing this very long ;ind tedious })a{lage. About midnight, wc paffed to the wetlvvard of the fouth point of Owhyhee; and in the hope of procuring fomc provififin? and rcfrefhments, as we failed paft the wcl]: codil of this illand wc kept clofe in Ihore. In the morning of Friday the 2d, with a light breeze from the land, at the diftance of about tliree miles, we Hood along fliore to the north- ward. Several canoes came off with a fupply of pigs, and vegetables ; amongft the latter were ibmc vei'v excellent water melons : the natives, howe\ \:r, demanded a very exorbitant return for thefc rcfrcfliments, and fecmcd very indifferent , about "... (jl-IW 17P2.] KOUND THE WORLD. 34<) about trading, or having any other communi- cation with us. At noon on Saturday the 3d, with very plcafant weather and light breezes, generally from off the land, Karakakooa bore north about five miles dillant ; and we had now the fatisfadion of finding our chronometer, al- lowing the Otahcitean rate, to agree within a few feconds of its longitude as fettled by Captain Cook. The Portfmouth rate made it l" 18' to the eaftvvard. On board the Chatham, Mr. Arnold's chronometer erred 24' to the well ward, according to its rate of going as fettled at Ota- hcite. The flcep precipice which forms the north fide of Karakakooa bay, renders it too remarkable to be eafily miftaken, efpeclally as the interior country rifes thence more abruptly than from the coaft to the north or fouth of the bay ; which, although prefcnting both wood-land and culti- vated country above the barren rocky lliores where the habitations of the natives are chiefly fituated, is, ncverthelefs, in a great degree dclH- tute of that diverfity of profpcd which might have been expeded here, and which is alfo the general character of all th.is fide of the ifland. Several canoes havinii llocjd to lea after us in the morning, we now brought to, fortlie purpofe of trading with them ; and u ere foon honored with a vifit from Tiatuia, the pcrion nicntioncd iu *. ?f if «*iV*- _,* «•»«- .^^,? i<»,Ufcui> N \i 350 A VOYAGT? OP DISCOVERY fMAllC^r, in Mr. Mcarcs's voyage. He was received in a manner aerceable to the diftinu;uinie(l churadcr he had Lccn reprcfcnted to fupport, and which, from his grutetul imjuirics after his patron, he ap- peared to dcfervc. This complimentary conver- fation he fcemcd defirous of fpeedily putting an end to, licing very anxious to acquaint ns tliat, fince liis return from China, he had refided on this illand, where many feverc confllds had taken place ; in which he had taken part with Tcimiuili' manli^ againft TeamnwhcerCy who, it Icemed, had, ■fince the death of Terecobooy iliared the govern- ment with TanuiuJimaah. In one of thefe bat- tles Tla?iua htiving iliot Tccmaw/iecrr, acomi)!ctc vidory was gained, and thefe two chiefs agreed to divide the illand between them. Tamualumuth becoming the fovereign over the three northern, and Tiiiitna of the three fouthern dillrids. Uunderfcanding that I purpofed going dircdly lo the Leeward iilands, Tiaiina requefted he might be permitted to accompany us, and, with his wives and retinue, to flcep on board ; with Avhich requeft 1 thought proper to comply. From the cliara^ler given of this chief,* I was not a little furprizcd to find him totally ignorant of our language, and unable to pronounce a fmgle word articulately ; but by pur knowledge of his fpecch wc foon underftood, that, fnice the pre- * -• ■ Mcares's VovaGre. .: ccdmij; 179^.] HOUND Tin: wouLn. 35! ceding autumn, not any vclicl hud arrived ; that about that time three or I'our American hriojs; and one, in which was Mr. Cohiett, belon-'^ln'i to Macao, liad vifited the iilands; and, that it was not poflible ibr any vcll'els to touch at the other iflands, without himil'irand the people ot' Owhy- hec being inlbrmcd ot* their arrival. This inteU ligcuce made me defpulr of meeting the llorc- fliip, and the hope which I had io long indulged, as a con^penllition lor the tardy progress which circumllances had liitherto compelled us to make, now feemed intirely to vanlili. Tianua viewed every tranfadion on board with attentive admiration, whilftour numbers fcemcd to create in his mind a degree ot liirprize he was unable to fubduc. In the courle of the evening he held trcquent convcrfations v\ith Toivcrcyio, and during; the nitdit he was Icvcral times on deck, endeavouriniz; to afcertain the number of men on duty in the diireicnt parts of the Hiip. The retinue ot" TiiUina on this occafion was to conlilt ot" a contidetao'O ! i !-^,bcr ; pait were to attend hiiU on buard the Difcovery, and the rc- maiudvi was to proceed in the Chatham. Hii rctidencc was a little to the i\orth ot Karakakooa; and as it wis propofed his fuite thould be taken on board the next atteniuon, we kept orf that Sta- tion. A mellengcr, apparently of foiiie confe" cjuence, was dilpaLChed to tlic ihore with dircc- tion;s **■ • ■-**^- r^; 352 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [mARCH, tions for this purpofe the preceding evening ; in the forenoon of Sunday the 4th, however, fcveral coniultations took p]iv:c with thofe about him, which finally ended in his declining to accom- pany us to Attowai. The convcifation he had held with Towcrcroo had induced him to believe that the fervices of this lad might be of great im- portance to him ; and as he promifcd Towereroo a very handfome cftablifliraent of houfe, land, and other advantages, I thought it advifeablc to fix him with Tiamia for the prefcnt, that, on my return in the w inter, I might be enabled to form ibme judgment of his treatment. Morotoi, the native ifland of To"jocrcroo, was in a ftate of great confufion, in confequence of its being the general • rendezvous of Tit cere and Ta'io, the fovereifj^ns of Woahoo and Attowai, who were then meditating a war againft this ifland. I'his was an additional reafon for confenting to the arrangement. To- zvivcroo, though exceedingly anxious to accept Tianiids offer, fecmed to entertain great doubts as to the future iiifcty of Iiimfelf and his property; to the laft moment he had his choice of remain- ing on board, or departing with T'lavna ; and, notwithllanding ho did not hefitate to prefer the latter, yet he earncdly recjuefted the few clothes he had lefn, and the articles I had given him, fmce our leaving Otaheite, might be taken care of on board, until our return ; and he would take ' -^ "."^ •T'-'*'' I '"1 »•-»"*■' -imnatm^^K^^j^^'' 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 353 take with him a very fmall ailbrtmcnt of the dit- tcrcnt articles of traifie only, tu fupply his prefcnt neceflities. As Tiamia had feveral goats, I did not prcfent him with any of thefe animals, but made him very happy by giving him fome vine and orange plants, fome almonds, and an aii'ortment of garden feeds, to all of which he promifed the moft particular care and attention. After re- ceiving fome acceptable valuables in return for ten fmall hogs, he took his leave of us with To' wercroo about five in the afternoon ; and though he afFe<3:ed to be pretty well latisfied with his re- ception, and flattered with being falutcd with four guns on his departure, yet it was very evident he was extremely difappointed and chagrined in not having been able to procure any fire arms or ammunition; which were anxioufly foiicitcd, not only by himfelf but by all his countrymen, and by us as uniformly rcfufed. To the care of Tovjcrcroo I intruftcd a letter, addrcfled to the officer commanding the vcffel charged with ilores and provilions ibr our fervice, acquainting him with our departure iicm Owhy- hee, and of my intention to call at the Leeward iflands to recruit our water, after wliicb, wc fliould proceed immediately to the coall of Ame- rica : and 1 direded him to follow us thither without lofs of time, agreeably to tliu arrange- Voi... 1 Z iVient-i »|t| '«! i' l^ 1 V m i> 354 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [mAUCH, ments I had previoufly made with the Secretary of State's office. As we flood along fhore with a light breeze, we were in the evening greatly furprized on being hailed from a large canoe, which was meeting us, in broken Englifh, demanding who we were, and to what country we belonged, and very ci- villy requefling to be admitted on board. This being granted, the fpeaker proved to be a young man named Tarehooa, a native of Attowai, who had accompanied a Mr. John Ingram command- ing an American fhip laden with furs, from North Wefl America, bound to Bofton in New Eng- land by the way of China. Tarehooa had been with Mr. Ingram in North America about feven months, and had returned in a brig with him fbme months before. His prefent maflcr, he informed mc, was a chief named Kahowmotoo, of great importance, and nearly equal in confequence with Tianna ; and who like him had been very inflrumcntal in gaining for Tamaahmaah the fbverclgnty of the whole ifland. We were inflantly made known to this chief, who prcfcnted me with a letter written in Spanifh, dated " Sloop Princefs Royal, March 28, 1791,' (probably the fame vefTcl that was captured at Nootka) attended by an Englifh tranf- lation of the fame date, and both figned " Ema- nuel Kimpcr;" recommending in the flrongcft terms h\ 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 355 terms Tamaahmaah, Tiamia, and this chief Ka- Jiowfnotoo, for their having, on all ocafions, flicwn Mr. Kimperand his people every mark of friendly attention and hofpitality. Kahozvmofoo prcfcnted hie with three fine hogs, for which in return he received ample compenfation ; but, like T'lanna^ was much mortified that it had not been made in arms or ammunition. He requeftcd to flccp on board, and that his canoe might be taken in tow, in both of which he was indulged. Much converfation took place in the evening. He con- firmed the account given by Tianna of the non- arrival of any veflels for fome months paft, and the wars which had taken place; but it was ex- ceflively difficult to reconcile the ftory he told of Tianna, with that which Tianna had related of himfelf. Tianna s atchievemcnts he readily ad- mitted, and candidly allowed him great merit for his military exploits; but denied his having equal power with Tamaa/imaah; faying, there was but one aree dclioi over all Owhyhec, and he was Ta- maahmaah; and that if Tianna was an arec deiioi, {o alfo mull he be, and other cb.iefs of equal con- fequence \'\t\\ Tianna and himlelf. This inftance will ferve to illuftrate how verv difficult it is, according to our comprehenfion of their language, to obtain matter of fad: from thefe people ; and that nothing Ihort ol' indefa- tigable labour can obtain the truth, and corred. Z 2 information, i ^ ;\ 13 ^^! 1» ■-r.r III ,']')() A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY j^MARCII. information, from man in fo early a Hate of civi- lization. The next morning vs^c were abreaft of the fouth point of Toca-yah-ha bay, near which is Kahowmotoo s rcfidcncc. It was a great pleafure to obferve the avidity with which all the chiefs who had vifited the Ihip fought after the vege- table produdions we had brought ; which, if at- tended to, will in future add to their prefent abundant production . Kahowmotoo was very anxious to obtain every acquifition of this fort, and was made very happy by receiving fome fine orange plants, and a packet of different garden feeds; and likcwife agoat and kid. Withthefc valuables he appeared to be highly delighted, and promifed to give them his greatefl care and at- tention. Tarecliooa, who preferred the name of Jack, )iad been with Mr. Ingram in the capacity of a fcrvant ; but was now promoted to the 'office of interpreter in the fervice of this chief, which he by no means badly executed. Jack was extremely folicitous to remain on board, and to accompany us on our voyage. As he appeared to be a very llirewd adive fellow, and there was a probabi- lity of his being made ufeful, I accepted of his fcrviccs on Monday the 5th, to which the chief confentcd, though with a mixture of regret, and a friendly regard for Jack's future advantage and fiicccfs. 1791.] ROUND THE WORLD. 357 iuccefs. After being faluted with four guns, a compliment which Tianua had received, and taking a very affedionat ^ leave of his interpreter, Kahowmotoo departed with the moft friendly af- furance, that whenever we fhould think proper to vifit his diftridl, we fliould be abundantly fup- plied with refrefhments. A light breeze, chiefly from the fouth, advanc- ed us flowly towards the north point of Owhy- hee, until the trade wind at E. N. E. no longer intercepted by the high mountains which com- pofe the ifland, met us ; when we directed our courfe towards Woahoo. Early in the morning of Tucfday the 0th, being well in with the ifland of Tahoorowa, the Chatham's flgnal was made to denote our fituation in bearing up along the fouth fide of that ifland ; but as neither this nor ibme previous fignals had been acknowledged, I concluded the Chatham had remained becalmed under the high land of Owhyhee ; whilfl: we had benefited by a very fine gale, owing to our being a little further advanced ; and Woahoo being our next appoiiited rendezvous, a long fcparation could not be apprehended. The trade wind blew llrong from the N. E. until we were under the lee of Ranai, when lisjht and variable winds fuc-r cecded. At noon Tahoorowa by compafs bore S. 88 E.; the S. W. part of Mowcc N. ;o E.; the eall part of Ranai N. Go E.; fouth point Z 3 N. 2ti m )) principally compofed of barren rocks and high precipices, which fall perpendicularly into the fca. We did not pafs at a greater diftance than a league, yet verdure or cultivation was not any ■where to be feen. From its eaft point the north eaft fide of Woahoo takes a direction N. 35 W. off which are fcattered fome detached iflcts and rocks ; the northernraoft of thefe which we faw, is a low flat rock, lying from the eaft point N. 22 W. three or four leagues diftant ; and near the ihore was a hill whofe fummit bears the appear- ance of a volcanic crater. The land to the north of the eaft point feemed much indented, but whether capable of affording any fhelter or not, •we were too far off to difcern. On the fouth eaft part of this ifland arc two remarkable pro- montories, which lie from each pther S. 81 W. and N. 8 1 E. about feven miles afunder ; the firft or eafternmoft of thefe is formed of barren rocky cliffs, rifing fo fuddenly from the fca, that to all appearance veffcls might brulh their fides in paff- ing them ; whence the land falls a little back, and forms a fliallow bay in a northern diredion, where the different colours in the water indicated a rocky bottom ; on the beach the furf broke very violently, behind which a lagoon extended fome diftance to the northward. Should the bottom be found good, vcffels might ride in this bay to- lerably wxU protected againft the general trade Z -1 wind ; W )ii -ll f' t» ! .1 ri SfiO A VOYAGE OP DISCOVEIIY [mAHCIT, wind ; but as our place of rendezvous was round the fccond promontory, wc did not examine it in a more particular manner. Continuing our courfc about nine we hauled round the reef which lies about a quarter of a mile from that point, and had foundings from 22 to 10 fathoms; in which latter depth of water we anchored about ten o'clock, the bottom fand and pieces of fmall coral This promontory, which is the fouth point of the ifland, has alfo on its top the appear- ance of a crater, formed by volcanic eruptions ; this bore by compafs N. 82 E.; the outward part of the reef S. 81 E.; the wcfternmoft part of the land in fii;ht N. 82 VV. a break in the reef, which extends at irregular diftances along the lliore, N. 20 W.; a low fandy point, near the weft end of a large Indian village N. 7 W.; and the middle of the village (^whcrc, the natives informed us, we might land in pcrfed: fafety with our boats) N. N. E. about two miles diftant. Wc examined a confidcrabie (pace around the fhip, and found in fliorc the fame dcfcription of bottom, though the coral which principally compoied it was of ib foft a nature, as to caul'e little apprchenfion for the faicty of our cables. The depvh of water witlila us gradually dccrcafed to fix fathoms, and witliout, to the diftancc of nearly a mile, as gra- dually incrcnfcd to 25 and 30 fathoms, where the bottom was found to be a fine grey fand. ■ '- - ' .- . J-. As .A As 1792.] KOUXT) Tlir, WORLD. 3(3l As our quarter deck required caulking, the carpenters were immediately employed on this bufinefs. Some few of the natives vifited us from the fhore, who brought in their canoes a very fparing fupply of refrefliments, amongft which, the mufk and water melons made no in- confidcrable part, and were very excellent of their kinds. The fituation occupied by us in this bay, which the natives call Whytcete, fccmed nearly as eligible as moll of the anchoring places thefc iflands are generally found to atFord. The inha- bitants were exceffively orderly and docile, al- though there was not a chief or any perfbn of dillinction amongft them to enforce their good behaviour ; neither man nor woman attempted to come on board, without firft obtaining pcr- miilion ; and when this was refufcd, they re- mained perfedly quiet in their canoes alongfide. , I'hc information obtained at Ov. hyhee, that Ti/eere and Taio, with moil of the principal chiefs and warriors of this iiland, and thofc to lee- ward, were on a hoftilc expedition at Morotoi and Mowcc, was here confirmed ; but differed as to the ii-nmcdiatc caufe of their ablcncc, which was now rcprcfented to be for the purpofe of re- pelling an invufion likely to take place from Owhyhcc, by Turiiaalunaaii, Kohoitmoioo, and Tianna. This, in a irreat incafure, icemed to account for the fjnall number of inhabitants who ' , vifited >\ i I ■\ I 1) h> J > •' -it •'I . wt>'i A VOVAGK CP DISCOVERY []^fARCIf, vifitcd US, the wretched rondltton of their ca- noes, and the icanty fwpply of their country's pio(hicc wliich they brouj^ht to maiket. On the iliorcs, the vil lathes appeared numerous, large, and in £^ood repair ; and the furrounding country plcafmgly interfpcrfcd with deep, though not cx- tenfive valleys; -vshich, with the plains near the fea-fide, prefentcd a high degree of cultivation and fertility. The apparent docility of thefe people, v\ ho have been reprefentcd by former vi- fitors as the moft daring and unmanageable of any who belong to the Sandwich iflands, migh*: probably, be attributed in a great mcafure to the ahfence of their fighting men, and to our mani- fefb fuperiority in numbers, regularity in point of Older, and military injvcrnmcnt ; which feemed to make a woudcrt'ul imprcflion on all who were permitted to come on board, and who, to a man, a, peared very much afraid of fire-arms. This was evinced, on our mounting guard to polithe ccntincls round the fhip. On this occjjfion they all haitily paddled tov/ards the fliore, and it was ncjt without much pcriuafion that they were in-- duced to return. ' ' It appeared very fingular, that the war of which wc had heard fo much, was not yet begun ; and KrJioic;uot(jo, who had frequently mentioned the fubjeCl, faid they were not to begin the combat until after the expiration of fifteen months. If this 1792.3 ROUND THE WORLD. 363 this information be corrcdt, dcflgns fo long pre- meditated , or preparations delayed {o long from being carried into execution, were hard to ac- count for. Taio and TUccre had now been fe- yeral months from their refpc^tive governments. Our new ihip-mate Jack became very ufeful; he took upon him to represent us in the moft formidable point of view to all his countrymen; magnifying our powers', and augmenting our numbers, and proclaiming that we were not tra- ders, fuch as they had been accuftomed to fee ; but that we were belonging to King George, and were all mighty warriors. This being his conftant difcourfc, it is not to be wondered that his coun- trymen became much intimidated ; and as this could he produdive of no ill confcquenccs, we permitted Jack to proceed in his encomiums, and unanimoufly agreed it would not be his fault if we were not in high repute amongil the iflan- ders. After caulking the decks T purpofed to execute fuch trivial repairs, at this place, as might be found nccefliiry to the rigging, &c. &c. provided that water, for which 1 was alone lolicitous, could be procured ; as the abundant and excel- lent rciVeihments we had obtained at Otahcite, and the high Hate of health which we had en- joyed (ince our leaving Dulky bay, rendered lup- plies '' !M 3f)l A VOYAGK OP DISCOVEnV [MAttCIl. jillss orany other nriLurc a Iccondary confidcra- tioii. For tills purpofe, attended by two armed boats, fliid a ^11 nd uf' levcn niariiics, I landed, ai'com- paiiud by Mr. Mudgc, Mr. Whidbcy, and Mr. Mcii/ics. Our boats remained pcrfedly quiet on t\n' beach, haMiig palled to the fhorc between fgnic rocks, which completely proteded it from thip Ijiirf. The natives, w ho were prcfent, received us in a very orderly manner. Two bulHing men with lArge llicks, kept the few fpcdlators at a rc- fpcdtul dirtancc: to thefe I made fomc prcfcnts; and, on inquiring for water, they directed us to fomc ftagnaut brackifli ponds near the beach. This being rejected, wc were given to underftand that good water was to be had io abundance at ibme diilancc, to which they readily undertook to conduc!:!: us : and as they all appeared friendly and pacific, the boats were left in charge of Mr. Swaine and Mr. Manby; and we proceeded, with our guard, in fcarchof the promifcd fupply. Our guides led us to the northward through the vil- lage, to ail exceedingly well-made caufeway, about tvNcivc feet broad, with a ditch on each fhlc. This opened to our view a fpacious plain, which, in the immediate vicinity of the village, had the appearance of the open common fields in England ; 1792.] r.ouNn thf. wonr'D. 31)5 Enc;land ; but, on advancing, the mnjor part ;»} - ncarctl divided into fields of irregular Ihapc and fipirc, which were fcparatcd from each odirr hy !ow ftonc walls, and were in a very hiidi ilatc oi cultivation. Thefe levcral portions of land were planted with the eddo or /(iro root, in dilicrcnt Hagcs of inundation ; none being perfectly dry, and fomc from three to fix or fevcn inches imdcf water. The canfevvay led iis near a mile front the beach, at the end of which was the v\ater v\c were in queit of. It was a rivulet five or fix feet wide, and about two or three feet deep, well banked up, and nearly mi^tionlefs ; fomc fmall rills only, Rndinii; a paiTage through the dams that checked the fluiigifli llream, by which a conrtant fupply was atiorded to the inro planta- tions. The water was excellent, but the road was too rough and hard for rolling our cafks fuch a diftancc, without expofing them to great damage. This induced me to make our guides imdcrrtand, that, if the inhabitants would coi- led:, and carry this water on board in gourds, they fliould be well rewarded for their trouble. The ofter was inllantly communicated to their neighbours about \'.s, who immediately replied, we fliould have an ample fupply the next day. At the termination of the caufcvvay, the paths of communication with the different fields or plan- tations were on thclc narrow fronc walls ; very rngLied, '^ l ,'-A J SGG A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [mARCH, rugged, and where one perfon only could pafs at a time. The gentlencfs and civility of the na- tives tempted us to extend bur walk through the plantations^ which we found very pleafant. A fine refrefliing breeze prevailed, and the Indians kept at a fufficicnt diftance to prevent their company being incommodious. In this excur- fion we found the land in a high ftate of culti- vation, moftly under immediate crops of iaro ; and abounding with a variety of wild fowl, chieiiy of the duck kind, fome of which our fportfmcn fhot, and they were very fine eating. The fides of the hills, which were at fomediftancc, fecmed rocky and barren ; the intermediate vallics, which were all inhabited, produced fome large trees, and made a pleafmg appearance. The plains, however, if we may judge from the labour be- ftowed on their cultivation, fccm to afford the principal proportion of the different vegetable productions on which the inhabitants depend for their fubfiflence. The foil, though tolerably rich, and producing rather a luxuriant abundance, dif- fers very materially from that of Matavai, or the other parts of Otaheitc. At Woahoo, Nature feems only to have adled a common part in her difpenflitions of vegetable food for the fervice of man ; and to have almoll confined them to the taro plant, the railing of which is attended with much care, ingenuity, and manual labour. In the 379'2.} ROUND THE WORLD, 367 the feveral parts of its culture, the inliabltanrs, whether planting, weeding, or gaihcring, muil, during the whole of thefc operations, be up to their middle in mud, and cxpofed to the rays of a vertical fun: whereas, on the plains of Otaheite, the furface teems, as it were, fpontaneouily with the moft abundant produce of cfculent vegeta- bles, without the help of induflry to fow, plant, or rear them, or the affiftancc of the aqueducts v*?hich thefe people coni1:ru6l with great labour and ingenuity to infure them a crop. There, the continued groves of the lofty and umbrageous bread fruit, apple, palm, and otlicr trees, afford a ■delightful cool retreat to thofe favored iilanders ; here the inhabitants know not the luxury of fuch retirement. Nor did it appear in the vegetable kingdom alone that Nature here had been lcfs» favorable; the human fpccies, though without doubt originally of the i\uv,c nation, diltcr cxcef- fively ; and it would feem th:it tlic comparative benevolence of the Otahciteans and tlicfe people w as about equal to the natural fertility of the foil on which they rcfpeciivcly lived. It may how- ever appear rather uncharitable to form any de- cided opinion on fo Ihort an acquaintance ; vcl firft imprcffions will ever have their iniiuence on ■vifitinfi; diifcrcnt countries under circumftances fimilar, or nearly fo. On fuch occafions it is fcarcely poffblc to avoid comparifon;, in which n ii. ijifij l.i fi\ *1 I L 'tin Ml 368 A VOYAGE O*- DISCOVERY fMARCH^ one muft neceffarily fuffcr. On our landing at Otaheltc, the eftufions of friendfliip and hofpita- tallty were evident in the countenances of every one we met. Each endeavoured to anticipate our wants or our wiflies by the moft fafcinating attention, and by fcdulouily ftriving to be firil in performing any little fervice we required ; invit- ing us to take refreftiments at every houfe we ap- proached, and manifefting a degree of kindnefs that would juftly be extolled amongll: the moft poliflicd nariori?. AtWoahoo we were regarded with an unwelcome aullcritv, and our wants treated bv the ^cncralitv with a nedisrent indif- ference. In the courle of our walk they exhi- bited no affiduity to plcafc, nor did they appear apprehenfivc Icil offence fliould be given ; no rc- frcflimcnts were offered, nor had we invitation to any of their houfes. Their general behaviour ■vs^is diilantly civil, apparently diredcd by a defire to eftablifli a peaceable intercourfe with ftran- gers, from whom there was a propped; of deriving many valuable acquifitions, which would be un- attainable by any other mode of conduct ; as they mull have been convinced immediately on our landing, thit we were too powerful to be con- quered, and too nuich upon our guard to fuffer the lead: indignity by furprize. I muft, however, do jaftice to the hofpitality of our two guides, who on our reaching the Ihore took upon them 3 the . ^- 1/92.] BOUND THE WORLD. 3'jg the office of conftablcs ; and who had alfo each caufcd a hog and a quantity of vegetables to be prepared for our entertainment. On our return this repaft was ready, and we were much intreat- ed by them to partake of it ; but as it was now pail fun fet, we were under the neccflity of de- clining their civility ; on which they very oblig- ingly put our intended fupper into the boats. I prefentcd each of our guides w^ith an acceptable acknowledgment, and earncftly renewing my requeft of a fupply from the brook, which they promifed fliould be complied with the next day, we returned on board, ' '..■'. Towards midnight the Chatham arrived, and anchored a little to the vSrellwatd of the Difco- vcry. I foon learned from Mr. Broughton that as I had fufpeded, his veflel had been becalmed the evening we parted until near one the next morning, when they flood towards Mowee ; but on his not being able to fee the Difcovery at day light, he fleered to the north- weft along the Ibuthcrnfide of that ifland, and found an eligible anchoring place off its wellcrn part, with found- ings regular and good; and as the natives brought off a confiderablc quantity of water, he had great rcafon to believe that article could there be rea- dily procured. ! . The few natives in our Immediate neighbour- hood, though they condu(^ed themfelvcs in a Vol. I. A a very !li V /i' lit 1 1 \ V SI 3/0 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERT [mARCIT* very civil and fubmiflivc manner, yet brought us lb little water in the courrc of the next day, Tucfday the 3th, that I was induced to give up the idea of obtaining a fiipply by their means, and to proceed immediately to Attowai ; where I was affured wc Ihould have that neceffary article completely within our own reach and power. After employing the forenoon in fetting up our rigging, and in other ufeful occupations, we weighed anchor, and ftcered to the weftward. Anxious to communicate the intelligence of our progrefs to the officer commanding the llore- Ihip, (this being one of the appointed rendezvous) I entrufted a letter to one of the natives, a very adive fenfiblc fellow, w^ho promifed to take great car ' of it, and to deliver it on the veiTel's arrival in this bay ; and for the faithful difcharge of this truft, he was affurcd of receiving a very hand- ibme prefent, to which I promifed him an addi- tion on my return. ' Whyteete bay is formed, by the land falling a little back round the fouth point of Woahoo ; and although open above half the compafs in the fou.thcrn quarters, it is unqueftionably the moft eligible anchoring place in the illand, We found the latitude of the ihip's ftation by four good meridional altitudes to be 2 1*' \C/, 4/"; its longi- tude by the chronometer 202^ g' 37^; and the variation of the compafs to be 7" 50' caflwardly. . - Mr. .t ^■^ 179'2.] ROUND THE WORLD. 371 Mr. Arnold's chronometer on board the Chatham gave the longitude 201° 45' 3o", allowing the rate as fettled at Otahcite ; our chronometer by the Portfmouth rate, fhewed the longitude to be 203" 2(/ 50"; but 202"* 9' 3;" is to be received as its true longitude. A fine breeze between five and fix brought us round the fouth-vveft part of Woahoo, which lies from the fouth point N. 82 W. five leagues diftant. This point is low flat land, with a reef round it, extending about a quarter of a mile from the fhorc. The reef and low land continue fome diflancc to the eaflward towards Whvtccte bay, and form, between the fouth and fouth- wefl points, a large open fliallow bay, with high land rifing very irregularly at fome diflance from the beach ; which, towards the fouth- wefl point, appeared to be broken in two places, and to form lagoons that fcemcd capable of receiving boats and fmall craft. One of the natives, who was accompanying us to Attowai, informed me, that all along the fliore off thefc openings the bottom was rocky, and would cut our cables. This, with fome other circumftances, induced me to believe, that there was not any where in this fpacious bay fuch good anchorage as at our lail flation. At eight in the evening, the weft point of Woahoo bore N. \ E. three Icasrucs diftant. The Chatham being under the land becalmed, wc A a 2 foon 1' \:\ 372 A \ pYAGg Ol<' IJISCOVEIIY [mARCK* loon loft fight of her. Wc continued our courfe under all fail, and to our great furprize came within fight of Attowai, by half paft four the next morning, Friday the 9 th. The eaft end, by, compafs, bore N. by VV. at a trifling diftance, having gained almoft iix leagues in the night's run from land to land, more than the log afcer- tained ; which I concluded muft have been ef ' fe' III/ ''. Hi ( I , - /. CHAP. 1792.] ROUND THE WORLD. 373 CHAPTER II. TranfaSiJons at At tow at — The Prince and Regent vijit tJie SJi'tps — Fidelity of the Natives-^-Ohfer^ vations on the Change in tJiefeveral Governvic7its of the Sandwich If lands — Conmiercial Pmfuits of the Americans. "13 Y the time wc had anchored, fcveral of the -■-^ natives vifitcd us in the fame fubmiflive and orderly manner as at Woahoo, anr'. appeared bet- ter provided. Towards noon of Friday the 9th, the Chatham arrived ; but the wind lliifting about prevented her coming to anchor until fun- fet, when fhe moored a little to the weftw. rd of the ftation we had taken. Our boats, guard, &c. being in readinefs, about one o'clock wc proceeded to the Ihore. Mr. Menzies accompanied me in the yawl, and Mr. Pugct followed vN ith the cutter and launch. The furf was not fo high as to prevent our landing with cafe apd fafcty ; and we were received by the few natives prefent, with nearly the fame fort of dillant civility which we experienced at Woahoo. A man, named Rchooaj immediately undcr- A a 3 took fl 374 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [mARCH, took to prcfcrvc good order, and undcrftanding we purposed to remain fome days, caufcd two excellent houl'es to be tahoocd for our fervicc; one for the officers, the other for the working people, and for the guard, confiding of a ferjeant and fix marines. Stakes were driven into the ground from the river to the houfes, and thence acrofs the beach, giving us an allotment of as much ipace as we could poflibly have occaiion for; withiri which few encroachments were attempt- ed. This bufmefs was executed by two men, whofe authority the people prefent feemed to acknowledge and refped, although they did not appear to us to be chiefs of any particular confe- quence. I made them fome very acceptable pre- fents ; and a trade for provifjons and fuel was foon eflablifhed. Certain of the natives, who had permiflion to come within our lines, were em- ployed in filling and rolling our water-cafks to and from the boats ; for which fervice they feemed highly gratified by the reward of a few beads or fmall nails. Having no reafon to be apprehcnflve of any interruption to the harmony and good undcr- ftanding that feemed to exift, and the afternoon being invitingly plcafant, with Mr. Menzies, our new fliip-matc Jack, and Rehoony I proceeded along the river-fide and found the low country which flretches from the foot of the mountains towards IV. 1792.] nOUND TKE WORLD. 37§ towards the fea, occupied principally with the taro plant, cultivated much in the fame manner as at Woahoo; intcrfperfcd with a i ' fugar canes of luxuriant growth, and fome fwect pota- toes. The latter are planted on dry ground, the former on the borders and partitions of the taro grounds, which here, as well as at Woahoo, would be infinitely more commodious were they a little broader, being at prcfcnt fcarccly of fuffi- cient width to walk upon. This inconvenience may poffibly arife from a principle of oeconomy, and the fcarcity of naturally good land. The fides of the hills extending from thcfe plantations to the commencement of the foreft, alpacc com- prehending at Icaftone half of the ifland, appear- ed to produce nothing but a coarfe fpiry grafs from an argillaceous foil, which had the appear- ance of having undergone the adion of fire, and much refembled that called the red dirt in Ja- maica, and there confidered little better than a caput mortunm. Moil of the cultivated lands being confiderably above the level of the river, made it very difficult to account for their being fo uniformly well watered. The fides of the hills afforded no running ftrcams ; and admitting there had been a coUedion of water on their tops, they were all fo extremely perforated, that there was little chance of water finding any A a 4 paiHige •■ J N II 3/6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY [mARCII, paiTagc to the taro plantutions. Thcfe perfora- tions, which were numerous, were vifible at the termination of the mountains, in perpendicular cUffs abruptly dcrcending to the cultivated land; and had the appearance of being the cffccii of volcanic eruptions, though I Ihould fuppofc of very ancient date. As we proceeded, our atten- tion was arrelled by an objedl that greatly excited our admiration, and at once put an end to all conjedlure on the means to which the natives refortcd for the watering of their plantations. A lofty perpendicular cliti* now prefciittd itfelf, which, by rifmg immediately from the river, would effectually have Hopped our further pro- grefs into the country, had it not been for an ex- ceedingly well conftrudcd wall of ftones and clay about twenty- four feet high, raifed from the bot- tom by the fide of the c\ P\ which not only ferved as a pafs into the country, but alfo as an aquedud, to convey the water brought thither by great labour from a confiderable diftancc; the place where the river defcends from the moun- tains affording the planters an abundant llrcarn, for the purpofe to which it is fo advantagcoufly applied. This wall, which did no lefs credit to the mind of the projedor than to the fkill of the builder, terminated the extent of our walk ; frgim whence we returned through the plantations, whofc ]79*'3 ROUND Tin: WORLD. 3?/ whole highly improved ilatc imprcflcd us wltk n, very favorable opinion of the incluftry and in- genuity of the inhabitants. On our arival at the beach, I had the comfort of finding all thln£i;s in pcrfedly good order. As the trading and working party were extremely well lodged, it was reafonable to believe that our bufmefs would not only be much facilitated, but that a more plentiful fupply of refrcfhments would, probably, be procured, by allowing them to remain on fnorc. This induced me to leave Mr. Puget in charge of the party, and I returned on board perfet^lly fatisfied with the fafety of their fituation. Like our treatment at Woahoo, our reception here was not of that hearty, friendly nature, I had been accuilomed to experience from our fouthern friends. The eagernefs, nay even avi- dity, with which the men here aflilted in the proftitution of the women ; and the rcadinefs of the whole fex, without any exception, to furren- der their perfons without the leaft importunity, could not fall, at the moment, to incur our cen- fure and dilllke ; and, on reflcdlon, our difguft and averfion. I have read much, and leen Ibme- thing in my feveral vlfits to this ocean, of the cbfcenity attributed to the inhabitants of Ota- heite and the Society iflands ; but no indecency that ever came under my obfervation, could be compared I t p- !. •■ ■'*-. •-— *• 378 A VOYAOK OF DISCOVERY [MARCK, compared with the cxccflivc wanton ncfs pre fent- cd in tliis cxcurfion. Hud this levity, now fo offcnfivcly conr})lciioiis, been exhibited in my former viiitsto thefe ifiands, its impreflions could not have been effaced, and it muft ha; e been rc- colleded at this time with all the abhorrence which it would at firft have naturally created ; but as no remembrance of fuch behaviour oc- curred, I was induced to confider this licertioul- nefs as a pertedly new acquirement, taught, per- haps, by the different civilized voluptuaries, w ho, for fome years paft, have been their conftant vi- fitors. At Woahoo, and alfo on our arrival here, we were given to underftand that there were Eng- liflimcn refident on this ifland. One of them, a young man about feventcen years of age, whofe name was Rowbottom, on Saturday the loth came on board in a large double canoe, who faid he was of Derbylhire, that he had failed from England about five years iince in an Indiaman to China, which £hip he had quitted in order to engage with fome of the veffcls in the fur trade between North-Weft America and China ; and that he had ever fmce been thus employed in the American fcrvice. He informed me, that himfelf, John Williams a Welchman, and James Coleman an Irilhman, had been left at Onchow, in order that they might return Il wc idit 1 702.] nOUNT) THE WOULD. .179 return to this iflaiul tor the purpofe of collccVmg flindal-woocl, and pearls, for their niaOer Joliti Kcndrick, an American, commanding the hrit^ Lady Wafliington, in vvhofe Service they Hill re- mained at the wages of ciglit dollars per month. The Lady Wafliington had cpiitted theie illand the preceding Ovftober, bound to New J^ngland, with a cargo of furs to difpofe of in lier vn ay thi- ther at China ; flic was immediately to return from Bofton, and having fpent the next winter in North-Weft America, was, in the autumn of the cnfuing year, to call for thcfe men at Attowai, and take in a cargo of Tandal-wood for the Indian market, with lligh pearls as they might have coU led:ed. With Rowbottom came two chiefs, the one named No-ma-tcc-lw-tCL't the other Too ; both ot" whom he i'aid would be uleful at /\ttovvai and Onehow. On making thcfe chiefs each a prefent, with which they were preatly pleafed, they laid they were dircded by the king, or rather the prince Td-jnon-mr, (wlio is a bov, and the eldeft ion of Taio the Ibvereiirn of this and the nci^h- bouring iflands) to lay, that EncmoJi, the regent in Tutus abfence, and Titmont'rci\ would be with us in a day or two ; giving me to undeiltand that RncmoJi was the principal aCling officer. A nief- fengcr was immciliatcly difpatchcd to requcll of- his hidincls, that, as my Hay would be \q\\ Ibort, :, as my itay !>? r. y 'i he H: •ir i '/i 38a A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY j^MARCH^ lie would do mc the favor to lofc no time in giving us the honor of his company ; and, as a pledge of our friendly difpofition^ I fent him a large axe as a prefent. . * ■ Our young countryman faid it was highly im- portant to have the ftridefl: watch over the be- haviour of thefc people ; for although he con- ceived our force was too great for them to at- tempt any thing holtile with the leall profped: of fucccfs, yet he could not determine how far their ambitious views might lead them, as, fincc their fuccefs in taking a fchooner at Owhyhee, they had become fo elated, that they had at- tempted to take a brig at Movvee. The fchooner belonged to a Mr. Metcalf, an American trader, who having been fucccfsful in the fur trade, equipped and entrufted her to the command of his fon, who failed with eight men from Macao, in order to profecute that branch of commerce. This veflel was captured at Owhy- hee ; but as Ilowbottom's narrative of the facfts was afterwards found erroneous, the particulars of the enterprize, from better authority, will be given in a future chapter. No)natceJi:tee and Tooy with other natives pre- fent, confirmed the intelligence of this atrocious a<5t, and, at the fame time, highly reprobated the inhuman murder of the crew, who were all put to death excepting one man. Tianua was ac- cufcd con- 1792.] ROUND THE WOULD. 381 cufcd by them of having projcded this "W icked fchcme, and of having perpetrated the horrible malTacre ; but they pofitively denied that Taw, who had been fufpcdled of meditating the cap- ture of the brig at Mowec, had any knowledi»,c of that bufmefs ; faying, that it was intirely the a<3: of the people of Mowee. On becoming ac- quainted with thefe daring and ambitious dcfigns, I inquired what reception T'umna would have ex- perienced had he accompanied us from Owhy- hec ? Every one prefent feemed to be afconiflied at his entertaining fuch an idea, and agreed that he would have been put to death the inllant he had landed, as they all confidcred him as their moft inveterate enemy. Thcle reports, and the obfervations that were made by the natives in confequencc of their being rebated to me, gave mc great reafon to apprehend that Tiaimas inten- tions of accompanying us hither, which on re- flcdion he had thought proper to decline, were not didated by motives of the moft friendly and difniterclled nature. Thefe unwelcome tidings being concluded, Mr. Broughton attended me on fiiorc with the two chiefs and the young Engliiliman, who was extremely ferviccable to us as an interpreter ; and pointed out to the natives our friendly intentions towards them, and the manner in which they il\ould conduct thcmfelves, not only to infurc our sood M i ^, i ? i 1 I \ !) M 1 < 1 i 1' J.' ii •: 382 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVEKY fWARCff, good opinion, but to obtain the advantages that would eventually refult to thcmftlves from our viiit. On landing, I underllood from Mr. Puget tluit every thing was, and had been, conduced with the greateft propriety and good order by all parties. Trade for provifions, wood, &c. was going on very brllkiy, and our fupply of water was equal to our willies. Matters thus pleafantly circumftanccd, we embarked v\ ith Mr. Mcnzies and Mr. Whidbey, who had accompanied us on fhore in a double canoe to examine the river, which, at the diftancc of about half a league from the entrance, divides into two branches, one ftretchimg;; towards the E. N. E.; the other, feemingly the furtheft navi- gable, took a northerly direction, in which how- ever we \^•ere not able to advance more than five hundred yards beyond the wall we had vifited the preceding evening. Here we landed, and confidcred ourfelves about three miles from the iea-fidc, to which we now returned by a path fomcwhat nearer the foot of the mountains than before, through a fimilar country; and were on this occaiion, more peftered and difgufted, if poffible, with the oWcene importunities of the women, than on our former cxcurfion. Nomatcchctec returned with us to dinner ; To(^ remained with Rchooa to alfift our party on (horc. The next morning, Sunday the 11th, ISoina- techetce 1792-3 ROUND TIIK W0RLT5. 383 teehetee produced a lift of certificates from four different commanders of trading vcilels who had lately vifited thcfe iflands. The firft, dated in April 1791, figned by J. Colnett of the Argo- naut, recommended this chief to the notice o( future vifitors ; but the others figned by J. In- gram of the Hope, Thomas Barnet of the Guf- tavus, and John Kcndrick of the Lady Waihing- ton, the two former without dates, the latter dated 2;th of October, 1 791, all direct that the grcateft circumfpedion (liould be obfervcd in the intcr- courfc of ftrangers with thefe iflanders, notvvith- ftanding the good opinion entertained of their fidelity, or the recommendation given, by Mr. Colnett. I told NQmatcchelce the paper fpokc much in his praifc and favor, and defircd that he would not omit lliewing it to the commander of the next and every other vclfcl that might arrive at Attowai, which he promifed to do, and rc- queftcd it might remain on board until our de- parture. The caulkers having finiflicd the quarter deck of the Difcovery, they were fent on board the Chatham to execute a fimilar fervice. Another of the party left by the Lady Walh- ington now made his appearance, which did not fpeak much in his favor. This man's name was Coleman, and Ilowbottom had faid he was of Ireland, which the man himfelf pofitivcly denied, 8 and n I i 1 « 384 • J A A OYAGK OF DISCOVEKY [mARCH*^ atid dcclaicd he was an American, born at New York. He had in moll rcfpcdls adopted the cuf- toms of the natives, particularly in drefs, or rather in nakcdncfs ; for, excepting the viaro^ which he wore witli much Icfs decency than the generality of the inhabitants, he was pcrfedly naked, and the colour of his fkin was little whiter than the faircll of thcfe people. I al]<.ed him w hat he had done with his former clothes; to which he an- fucrcd with a fneer, that *' they were hanging up in a houfc for the admiration of the natives;" and fecmed greatly to exult in having degenerated into a favage way of life. He acc^uainted me, that he was charged with a mcilagc from the prince, to afk what llay I intended to make, and to inquire if we were friendly and peaceably dif- pofcd. I dcfircd he would inform the prince, that we fliould depart the inftant a fupply of •water was obtained ; that I was very defuoiis of having an interview both with him and Encmofi, but that I could not be detained for this purpofe; and that, as a further pledge of the favorable dif- pofition we bore towards him and his people, I dcfired he would prcfent to the prince a piece of fcarlet cloth in my name. With this embaify he immediately fetoff, after alluring mc that the prince and regent, with many other chiefs, would pay us their refpccls by noon the next day. The afternoon being delightfully pleafant, I made. '/c s 1792-] KOUND THE W9RLD. 385 made a fmall excurfion to the wcllward along the beach ; and on returning, obfervcd the hills to the eailward of the river to be on fire from a confiderable height, in particular directions, down towards the water's edge. I was by no means pleafed with this appearance, well knowing that fires are generally reforted to by thefe and other rude nations as the fignal for coUeding the dif- tant inhabitants, when an cnterprizc or fcheme is meditated to be carried into cffed:. I dcfircd Rowbottom to attend to the oonver- ilition of the Indians who were near ; but he col- Icded nothing from them in our walk that could give rife to fufpicion. On joining the fhore party, I alked Nowatechetee and fome other chiefs, what was the caufe of this extenfive conflagration. Some replied, it was to announce the arrival of the prince, the regent, and other great chiefs in this neighbourhood on the morrow; whilft others contended it was for no other purpofe than that of burning the weeds. This difagrcement in opinion concerning the caufe of fo unufual an appearance, was far from being fatisfacSor)'. The furf ran very high, and other circumftances con- curred to render the embarkation of our working party very inconvenient ; in addition to which, I did not think it prudent to manifeft our appre- hcnfions by a fudden and hafty retreat. Thas party on fliore amounting to twenty armed per- I t I ifl J-' ft 'i\ Vol. I. Bb foils 38() A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY ^MARCH, f<)ns was tolerably ll:ron. ■ ccpd, to 179'2.] ftOUND THE WORLt). 38() cced, and communicated to me the following particulars of his reception. On landing, he was received with great marks of friendihip and cordiality by Enemoli, who is an elderly chief; guardian to the children of Taio, king of the ifland, and regent during his abfcnce. At fome diftance the young prince was feated in a man's lap, to whom Mr. Puget haftened to pay his refpeds, and had the fatisfadion of feeing him well pleafed with the prefents he made him on this occafion. Having fettled the bufinefs of their vifiting the fliips, to which Enemoh had confcntcd, he was extremely anxious to become acquainted with the fate of the fcveral articles which he had intruded to the care of Williams and Nomatcehetce the preceding evening. Much to their credit and honor, he not only found every thing he had configncd to their protedion and integrity, but alfo the muiket with its bayonet, •and crofs cut faw, vshich had been loll out of the canoe, but which in the courfe of the night had been recovered by the natives; who pro- niifed, that the axes which were not yet ob- tained fliould likewife be reftored, the inftant they were recovered. The feveral articles being colleded and fent down to the boat, with the man belonging to the Chatham who had been left on (liorc the preceding evening, Mr. Puget acq^uainted Enanoh that he was ready to attend B b 3 them I u 30)0 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVp:rY [N?ARCir, them on board. Encmoh replied that, ^^ith rc- fpccl to hirafcir, he had not the leafl ohjedion to aecompany Mr. Pugct with the young prince and T'lpnonc, a young chief about the prince's age, who reeined his principal companion; but that he was now prevented following his own in- clinations by the chiefs who were prcfent, and feme women apparently of great confec^uence, who collectively demanded an hoftage to be left with tliem on fliorc, whiltl; wc on board were lionored with the company of thefe illuilrioufi perfonaircs. On Air. Pujzet's receivinji; and niak- ing known my orders, that Mr. Manby and Mr, Sheriff Hiould remain behind in compliance with their defires, a general a]:>probatii>n was expreflcd by all prefent, and the regent with fome attend- ants embaikcd; fining, that on his return the prince and his young friend lliould go on board, but that the illand could not be left v\lthou( cither the prince or the regent. On Evcmolis comins: on board he affeclcd to recolledil me, aiul i'aid we had been acquainted when I was at Attovvai w ith Captain Cook ; and, ■to recall himfelf to my remembrance added, that he was prefent when 1 gave a lock of my hair to To'io, which Tci'io liad ever fmce preierved, and always carried about him ; and that he, EuemoJi, luid on tiiat occafion requefted a fnnilar pledge of fricndihip, which, however, 1 thought proper J. J ... to ' I' 179^-] ROUND TIIK WOULD. SQl to decline. Thcfc clrcumftanccs were very likely to have taken place, although at the moment they did not recur to my memory. A dozen ho^ij^s, and a quantity of mats and eloth, being; prefented by Enmoh, 1 made no delay in offering a fuitable return, with which, however, he did not leccm cither delighted or fatisficd. This produced an inquiry on my part ; on which he frankly acknowledged, that the prc- fent I made him was a very liberal one, but that he would gladly give up the whole for a mufket, or even for a piilol. Thcfc engines of deftruc- tion had been uniformly folicitcd with the greatefc ardency, by every native of the leaft confequence with whom we had any dealings ; and 1 had tre- quently been much perplexed how, without of- fence, to refufe complying with rcquefts fo im* portunatc, and, at the fume time, in my humble opinion, fo repugnant to tlic caufe of humanit}'. On this occafion 1 availed myfclf of our peculiar fituation, as it had refpci^l to the trading veireb which he had been accuilomed to vilit ; and in- formed him, that the fliip, and every thing Ihe contained, belonged to his Majcfty King George, who had iahoocd mnftets, piilols, and v:'.rious other articles. On this gunpowder and balls were immediately folicited ; but, on being told that thefe were under fimilar reftridions, he re- mained fdcnt, and iecmed \cvy thoughtful. ^\t . . , B b 4 length; I: ■ t< aM« M>n Ma ." .l aflr ■ <<» ■' 'rtf - ^ '^' DJ h Sg2 A VOYAGE OP DfSCOVKRY fMAnCIf, length, conceiving no importunities would avail, he recovered himfelf, and became as fuddeniy tlieert'ul, as on the rcfufal of his favorite weapons he had fcemed dcjeded. He now fliook me very heartily by the hand, and faid, fnice arms and ammunition were taboocdy he muft acknowledge that the prefents he and his friends had received were very ample, and that they had reafon to be highly Satisfied. EnemoJi recommended in the flrongeil terms the attendance of No7nati'chetee and Too on our paiTage to Onchow, where they would be very ferviceable in procuring us the dif- ferent produdions, and would prevent any dil- orderly behaviour on the part of the inhabitants. His opinion of his own importance was greatly flattered by our faluting him with four guns on his departure ; and he took leave with every ap- pearance of being extremely gratified with his vifit. Mr. Puget, who had to execute the remaining part of his embalTy, attended the venerable old chief and his fujte on board the Chatham, vs here they paid their refpeds to Mr. Broughton ; and, having received fome prefents from that gentle- man, they proceeded to the fliorc. On landing, Kncmoh expofcd the feveral articles wh.'ch had been given to him, and recounted the treatment he had received. Although Mr. Puget was much pleafed with the m ^' •Ith the i/y-i.] noiNi) THfi WORLD. ao.'i the liitisfudiun and happuicfs which the \iiit hiiil afforded all prcfcnt, hd was much dll'ippointctl on undcrftaiKUiig that tiic cniharkation of the prhiccand his young friend would not take place. On his fearching for the cauie of this llulden al- teration, and pointing out to Kncmoli the rceep- tion he had met, the prefents he had received, and afluring him, that we had no willi or defirc but to Hiew the fame marks of relpecl and triend- lliip to TiimoocrCf which he had given us an op- portunity of paying to him (all of which were readily admitted) Eni-mo/i, with fomc hefitation, explained ; and at length the rcafon was difco- vered to have proceeded from tlieir having ob- fervcd, that the two gentlemen who had been left as hoftages, were down on the beach near the boats, and they fuppolbd were going onboard without waiting the return of the prince to the fliorc. Mr. Puget inll-antly rcmo\ed their ap- prehenfions, when all objections cealed ; and the prince and his young companion were now as eager to get to the boat, as they before had been w illing to return on the demur of the regent ; from whom Mr. Puget underllood, that fomc liogs and vegetables were every minute cxpcded to arrive. But not thinking it advifeable to wait, left any other objection might arife and detain the prince on fliore, he immediately put off, leavin;j 'Mi [ I "^ ' i i 'n 11 4 h H Ll«, 394 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVEHY fMARCH, leaving Mr. Manby and Mr. Sheriff in their for- mer fituation as h(^{lajxcs. I was much plcaicd with the appearance and behaviour of this young prince, who fcemed to be about twelve years of age. In his counte- nance was exhibited much, atlability and cheer- fulnefs; and, on clofely obfcrvins; his features, they had infinitely more the refemblance of an European than of thofe whicli generally charac- terize thefe iflanders ; being delHtute of that na- tural ferocity (o confpicuous in the pcrfons about him. In thefe refpeds, and in the quicknefs of his comprehenlion and ideas, he greatly furpafl'ed his young friend and companion Tipoone. At firll, he was not without confiderable agitation, marked as evidently by the fenfibility of his coun- tenance, as by his ac'ilions ; in conllantly clinging to mc, and repeatedly fuluting me according to their cuftom, by touching nofcs. I loon diffipated his fears by a few trifling prcfents, and encou- raged him to vifit every part of the fliip. His inquiries and obfervations, on this occafion, were not, as might have been expected from his age, direded to trivial matters ; which either efcaped his notice, or were by him deemed unworthy of it ; but to fuch circumftances alone, as would have authorized quelliions from perfons of ma- tured years and fomc experience. He conduded himfelf ^^ age, nia- 1792.] ROUND Tlir, WOKLD. oC)'y hlmfelf vvltli a "Tcat (Jccrmittcd, or it'it were proper, to make tliis, or th:it inquiry ; and never moved TorvvLird, or lat down, vvirliout fu-fl; inquiring, ii, by lb doing, he llioukl incur any difplcalure. It was now about our dinner- time. His young iVicnd T'ipoone did not lail to partake of our repall, vvhilii: the prince fcemcd infinitely more entertained with the feveral new obje(5ts that furroundcd him, and, I believe, would have returned to the lliore perfcv^^ly fatis- fied with his vitlt, had I olTcrcd him nothini; more. Confidering, however, that fomc acknow- ledgment was due for their care and honefty in' reftorintr not only the articles, which thron;:h neeefiity had been committed to tlieir charge, but fuch as were recovered from tlic fca ; wlu'ii dinner was ended J |>refented Uiuioncrc with nearly a duplicate aiibrtment or* the vahuiblcs I had in the forenoon p:ivcji to Efhi::oh. with fomc tew other things th.it I'cemed particularly to at- trad: his attention. Air.ongft thefe was a quan- tity of wine and rum, ibr v/hich thefe iflandcrs, like our fbuthern iriends, \\:\\c i?cquircd no in- confidcrable relilli. I prefented likeuifc to- his friend a colle« prince or regent demanding an hoflLige for their {ait 179'-i.] ROUND THE WORLD. 30^ iafe return, on their confcnting to venture thcm- fclvcs ainongil: us ; a clrcumftancc that had never before occurred in any of my viiits to the iflands in this ocean. That they arc capable of being taught by proper leiTons and examples how to refpcc^l the property of others, is placed out of doubt by the exercife of thofe principles of redi- tude that dire(5led the honorable rcfloration of the mufket and tools which they recovered from tea fea ; and this alfo affords reafonable grounds to believe, that, on their being convinced that irregularities and frauds are not to be committed with impunity, all the inhabitants of thefe iflands would foon be induced to avoid difgrace and pu- nifliment, and Iccurc the advantac;es refultins: Irom the fricndfhip of the more civilized world. We might poffibly be in fome meafure indebted lor the good behaviour of the natives, to the con- fidence tb.at the chiefs had reafon to fuppofc was placed in their integrity. This, when repofed in their chiefs or reiponfible perfons, I have, in for- mer inftances, fecn attended with the moft happy cffed. The people of the feveral nations who have vifited thcfe illands, are well known and diftin- gulllied by the inhabitants. I was extremely, well j)lealed to undeiiland that the three refident men, though at prcfent in the fervice of an Ame- rican, had ufcd every endeavour to imprels on the I |^l;f:i ^00 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [mAIICH, the minds of the natives the moft favorable opi' nion of the Englifli ; and I w^as made very happy on being convinced of the ftrong predilcdlion and attachment which the young prince had conceived for the fubjeds of Great-Britain. This prepoffeffion, if properly cheriflied, may even- tually be highly important to the Britifli traders; for, if concluiions may be permitted to be drawn from the general deportment and manners of his early years, the riper ones of this young prince muft be attended with a very confiderablc de- gree of confequence in this part of the world. This prefumption appears the more warrantable, by the fplendid atchievemcnts, and the example he will have had exhibited by his father, who has raifcd himfelf to the high ftation he at prefent fills by his pcrfeverance and prowcfs in militarjF exploits. The predile<5lion of the prince was not only confpicuous in the attention flicwn to Rowbot- tom and his comrades, whofe perfons and pro- perty he had made iacred by their conftantly re- fiding with him, and by his making them his companions in all his diverfions and amufements, but in his having affumed the title of King George ; not fufFering his domeftics to addrefs him by any other name, and being much dif- |i!eafed with us, as well as his countrymen, if we cuVicd him Taiiioocre, '■ Bcfidcs l;<)2.] r. ROUND THE VVOFLD. 461 Befidcs the different articles of traffic with which I prefented this promifing youth, were a male and female goat, and two gcefe ; Mr. Broughton added a third; and wchad hopes they were of different fexes. He had like wife an ewe and a ram in moft excellent condition; left by Mr. Colnctt ; thefe had bred, but their progeny had ■ ee. ^fortunately ki)'"^^ by a dog. Not- withltanding thi^ accident, tuere was every prof- pe(5l of their future propagation and fuccefs. From Mr. Puget I learned, that there appeared in none of his tranfactions with the royal party any marks of external refpcct towards them, cither from the fubordinate chiefs, or the common people. When I was at thefe iflands with Cap- tain Cook, proftration was very ufually obferved, and feemed then to be demanded even by chiefs, though not of the highcfl rank. On thisocca- fion, the only circumftance which proclaimed the prince's fuperior rank, was a guard confiding of about thirty men, armed with iron pahooas, who attended him and the royal perfonages on all excurfions, carrying thirteen rnufkets made up into three bundles, with, fome callibaflies CQfi- taining ammunition, of w'hich it was thou<]!;ht expedient we (liould be apprized previous to their yifit, left fuch formidable appearances fliould create in us diftruft or fufpicion. During the Vol. I. C c time 9' I , 1 1.1 i h ^iifmw^' \:^ n 402 A roYAtlE aif DISCOVERY [WARCHi time our party was employed on lliore, an armcd^ man was fcarcely ever feen ; and fuch of the natives who appeared {o provided) brought-their weapons for the purpofe of fale'only. ■ ; ii About three in the morning of Wednefday the l'4th, we failed- with a fine northerly breeze for Onehow, in order, whilft the decks of the Chat- ham were caulking, to take on board fuch yams and other Vegetables as we might be able to pro- cute; * * Oil our arrival at Ohehow, we anchored in 14' fathom water off the Ibuth part of the ifland, about i of a mile from the fhore; its fouth-eaft point bearing by compafs S; 77 E» its weft point N. 48 W. and the illand of Tahoora S. 58 W. Finding the bottom here foft,- fandy, regular, andi good, I w as induced to prefer this anchorage to a fituation I had been in, further to the N. N. W. as the furf broke with great violence on the N.W. fids of tbe ifland, though here we rode very Itnoothly. Nomatcehetce wifhcd we had proceeded further weft ; faying, the natives would have a- great way to bring us their yams and other pro- du(fVions. The ftation we had taken was not however attended with anv fuch inconvenience: as, by Friday the 1 6th, in the afternoon, wc had pnrchafcd a very a. pie fup\ !'■ ; and the Chat- ham's deck being now finifhed, about ilx in the evening; V' ^[Tfi^Vi-^ - -*'iii*i5^j< i792.] nOUl^D THE WORLD. 40:5 evening wc proceeded together towards the coaft •of America. On our departure, the two Engllflimen with .our other friends took their leave, who, for the good fervices they had rendered uls, received ac- knowledgments tar beyond their moll fanguinc cxpedations. The lupply of refrelhmcnts which the Sand- wich iflands on this occaiion had afforded us, was undeniably a ^ery fcanty 4xne. This, however, I -did not folely attribute to fcarcity, as I had fre- quently great realbn to believe an abundant ftock might have been procured, had we been inclined to have purchafcd them with arms and ammuni- tion ; with which, through the unpardonable •conduft of the various traders, who have vifited thefe iflands, the inhabitants have become very familiar, and ufc thefe weapons with an adroitnefs that would not difgracc the generality of Euro- pean foldiers. Their great avidity for procuring ■thefe dellru^Jilive engines may poffibly have been iincreafed by the fuccelTcs of T'lniuia, who, it fhould feem, is principally indebted for his pre- ient exaltation to the fire-arms he imported from •China, and thofe be has fi nee procured from the .different traders. Ills example has produced in .every chief of confequencc an Inordinate thlrft for power; and a fpirit of entcrprize and ambition C c 2 fcems % \ n \ f k )' 404 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [mARCU, fccms generally diffufcd amongll them. If reli- ance is to be plviccd on the information which I received, the flame of thcfc unwarrantable defires has been raifcd by the pradVicc of every fpecies of artifice and addrcfs in their European and Ame- rican vifitors ; v ho have thereby enlianced the value of fuch dcllrudive articles of commerce. For thei'c alone the natives now item inclined to exchange the valuable refrelhments, with which there can be little doubt thefe iflands Hill abound. The evil of this trade will be materially felt by veffels that may have occafion to refort to this country, une([uipped with military ilores for the inhuman purpofe of barter with thefe people ; and it is much to be apprehended the mifchief will extend confiderably further, as wc have been acquainted, by the late adventurers in the fur trade, that thefe iflanders have tried various fchcmes to dc^roy the crews, and to gain pollcf- iion of fome of the trading vcirds, in which they fucctcded too well with Mr. Medcalf 's fchooner at Owliyhce. Thefe ambitious dcfigns however, had been rendered in moll inilances ineifedual, by the fupcriority alone which the traders pof- fefied ill fire-arms ; and vet, neither the convic- tion of their own iccurity being wholly dependant on theft; powerful means of defence, nor the com- mon principles of humanitv, fecm to luive had fullicieut \ 179'2.] ROUND THE WOULD. 403 fufficient influence to rcflniln a traffic, encou- raged by avaricious purfuits in defiance of all moral obliir;ation- The alteration which has taken place in the feveral governments of thcfc iflands fince their lirft dlfeovery by Captain Cook, has arifen from inccflant war, inlligated both at home and abroad by ambitious and enterprizing chieftains ; which the commerce for European arms and ammuni- tion cannot fail of encouraging to the mod de- plorable extent. ./If we may be allowed to decide by comparing the numerous throngs that appeared on the firft vifits of the llcfolution and Difcovery, and which were then conftantly attendant on all our mo- tions, with the very few we have feen on the pre- fcnt occafion, the mortality muft have been very confiderablc. It may however be objcded, that the novelty of fuch vifitors having, at this time, greatly abated, is fuflicient to account for the ap- parent depopulation. But when it is confidered how elTential our different implements and ma- nufactures are now become to their common comforts, that rcafon will not apply ; as every individual is eager to bring fortli all his fuper- fluous wealth, on the arrival of European com- modities in the market. At Wliytectc I had occafion to obferve that, althougli tlic town was cxtenfive, and the houfes numerous. /.^J m 406 A VOYAGE QP DISCOVKKY |[MARCH, numerous, yet they were thinly inhabited, and many .appeared to be intircly abondoncd. The village ot* Whymea is reduced at lead two- thirds of its ilzc, fince the j^ars 17/8 and 1770. I" thofe places where, on my former vifits, the houfcs were moll numerous, was now a clear fpacc, occupied by grafs and weeds. That exter- nal wars and internal commotions had been the caufc of this dcvaftation, was further confirmed by the rciiilt of my inquiries ofFOwhyhee, when it did not appear that any of the chiefs, with -whom 1 had been formerly acquainted, excepting TamaaJimaali, was then living ; nor did we un- derhand that many had died a natural death, moft of them having been killed in thefe deplo- rable contcfts. The fliort time we remained among thefc people, did not allow of my obtaining the fatis- fadory information I fought, and which was fo very defirable on this, as well as on other impor- tant topics. This has induced me to referve the fubjccl matter I had coHedcd, until I fhould have ^n opportunity of going into a more corred: in- veftiii^ation : for the prefcnt, therefore, I lliall take leave of the Sandwich iflands, by flating the advantages which the Americans promife themfclves by the cohimcrcial intcrclls they are endeavouring to eftablifh in tliefc fcas. ■ Previoully to the departure of Ruv/bottom and Will lams, b arc 1792.] ROUND Tn?. ■vvonLi>. ^07 Williams, they intbrn;cd mc, tluit their captain had conceived a vakiublc branch o( commerce might be created, by the importation ot' thci Jan- dal-wood of this country into India, wliere it lells at an exorbi-tant price; that, in the iur trade^ immenfe profits had been gained, infomuch that it was expcftcd not kfs than twenty veflcls would, on thefe purfuits, fail with their captain (Kendrick) from New England, and that they were de£red to engage the natives to provide fe- veral cargoes of thjs wood, which is r.fily pro- cured, as the mountains of Attowa as well as thofc of Owhyhcc, abound with the tree irom which it is produced ; though we \><'rr- not able to procure any of their leaves, to determine its particular clafi or fpecies. The wood feemed but flightly to anfvN sr the defcription given of the yellow landai wood of India, whir h i« there a very valuable commodity, and i.s i<)ld by weight. The pearls I- law were but few, and confilled of throe forts, the white, yellow, and lead colour. The white were very i?' lifferent, being fmall, irregular in fhape, and pc .iclling little beauty ;, the yellow, and thofe of a lead colour, were better formed, and, in point of appearance, of fuperior quality. Mr. Kendrick muft, undoubtedly, flat- ter himfclf with great emoluments from thefe branches of commerce, or he would not tlius have 2 retained 'I h i 408 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY [mARCH, retained three men in conftant pay for fuch a confiderable length of time, with a promifc of further reward if they conducted themfclves with fidelity towards his interefl. This proceeding, however, appears to have been the efFe/^ varying 5' 15" to the caftward of Captain Cook\ and l''-J5^^to tlic weftward of Captain King's pffigned true longitude of the roadftcd ; whence I concluded its rate of going very corrcd. The Portfmouth rate fkcwcd Mr. Arnold's chronometer, on 45". 201'' 40' board the Chatham, made the longitude of Why- mea, according to its Otaheitcan rate, 1 c){/5S'30". Our anchorage at Onehovv, by obfervation, wa^ in latitude 21^40' 3o", the longitude, by the chronometer, 10Q° 4o'. This ilation is to the K. S. E. of the fpot where the Rciblution an- chored, and which is laid down by Captain Cook in latitude 21° 50% longitude IQQ" 4 5'; confe- qucntly, our obfcrvations place the louth point of Onchow nearly in the fame latitude, though S^ further to the wcii-ward, and two Icairucs further didant from W'^hymca. The Portiinout'ii rate ihcvvcd the longitude to be 20 1" 5"; but Mr. Ar- * Vol. I. D d noid's ^i ( % I 'll i p i 410 A VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY. [mARvH. nold's chronometer made a much greater differ- ence, as it placed the anchorage at Onehow in longitude 199° 12' 15'^ At this ifland, v^^e found the tides regular, as noticed by Captain Cook ; but at Attowai and Woahoo, there was a current •which generally fet to the ea{lwaj:d:f^ X EKD OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 'X. Gillel, Trintcr, Salilbury>Si)Uuf« fFer- w in )und Dok; rrent I