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 Ausable Chasm, looking up stream from Table Rook. 
 
 It. 
 
A 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 AND 
 
 HISTORICAL GUIDE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 Yalley of Lake Cliamplain 
 
 AND 
 
 THE ADIROOACKS. 
 
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 JUKLIXGTON, VT.: 
 1{. S. STYLES' STEAM PRIXTIXU HOUSE. 
 
 isri. 
 
« -ili 
 
 Entered according to Act of Cor.grc.., in tlio year 187J. 
 
 By ANDuan- WiLLiAjis, Plattsburgh, N. Y., 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
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 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 I } 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 Tiu! Puhlij^luT. in issuing; tliis volti;iv% indi.ilLrcs in a C()niicl<'nco iliat. 
 he is siii)i)lyinL'-!i want nnivorsally felt by tlie travcllin;; i)u1)lic. Most 
 of the hool<s which have appoarotl. purporting to bo " Guides'' to tiie 
 territory attoinptod to be described in the following,' paLCOS. liave scarcely 
 possopsed a hisrhcr ciiaractor than is formed by a bald cara]o_'ue of 
 narce'^ and distances, and those often inaccurately stated, Avitii vat;ne 
 and unsatisfactory j^lances at objcjcts of Iiistorical or traditional interest. 
 
 The plan of the work now ofTered to the i)ublic. is clearly indicated 
 bv its title. " A d:-crii)tivo and Historical Guide to the Valley of Lake 
 Chainidain and the Adirondacks."' The author has devoted tiie ;no«f 
 earefal study and laborious rc'^eairhes to ac<'oniplish tin- i;b a. and 
 with what Fucrcss the reader must deterniini". 
 
 The work will be found, the publisher Ik lieves. to cDibruic a:i 
 aui])le, though compressed account of all the thrillinu- eveiits which 
 have rendered Lake Ge<>r!»e and Champlain po illiistrior.s. Tiie tourist, 
 traviMv-in^' these waters, witii this volume in his hand, will readiV 
 identify every locality, and bo able to tra<'0 the scenes of all the-i' 
 memorable incidents. Every spot associated with tb.o ri'col!e< lion 1 
 other times, or attractive by jjoi^iiionor natural beauty, is miu'iteiy 
 described. The routes of the >teanier< upon these lake-, ami tiie lines 
 of railroads from Whitehall to Kutland. and thenco to l]urlin'_^ton. Sr. 
 Allian? and 0;j:densburgh. are pursued in an im:)t;inary tour, whi'.-ii is 
 illustrated by a full description of the country, its villa;'es, oiij, •!< of 
 attraction and physical geoirraphy : lateral points of interest, acce-ibie 
 from the roads— as Tiako Dunmore. Camel's Hump and ^It. Man--iield, 
 and the mineral si)rin^'s of N'ermontand Alas-eua are specially nmiced. 
 Numerous important localities, to those in pursuit of pleasure or 
 investi-ration, on IheO^'densburjj:!! road, wliieli have hitiierto scarcely 
 lieon alluded to, are carefully pointed out. 
 
 A larirepart of tlie volume is devoted to an neeonnt of the wonderful 
 district embraced in the "Northern Wilderness." and enveloped by the 
 Adirondacks; the huge mountains, the rivers, the beautiful lakes, the 
 sylvan pond-, the pporting grounds, are all minutely descrilied ; the 
 world famed An Sable Ciiusm, the Indian and Hunter's Pa«s, Wilming- 
 ton Notch, and every other of the extraordinary natural plunouK'na, 
 nre portrayed, and in most casew from personal (.bservations. 
 
 37327 
 
!▼ 
 
 The various avenues to the Wilderness are explained with precision, 
 and impartially, in order to enable the visitor to select his own route, 
 guided by reliable information, satisfactorily. The distances of places, 
 both on the lakes and railroads arc accurately stated. It is the aim of 
 the volume to present the ftuilities atlbrded by every route of travel, 
 and to furnish the traveller with a directory of the names and 
 location of all the prominent hotels, taverns, boarding houses and other 
 resorts, in every section embraced in the scope of the work. 
 
 In a word, the publisher announces a "Guide Hook," which is calcu- 
 lated to interest the student of history, and to illustrate to every intel- 
 ligent tourist ore of the most attractive districts of the country, equally 
 in its reminiscences, and in its physical grandeur and lovi-liness ; that 
 will direct him in the pursuit of these unsurpassed natural beauties, 
 and to pgintout the localities which will best administer to his comfort 
 and amusement. The numerous illustrations presented in the volua»e 
 will larj.'-ely enhance its value and interest to the tourist, while the 
 cost of the maps it contains, by separate i)urchase, would b(! e<jual to 
 tlie price of the work. 
 
 Notwithstanding the great care and labor which has been exercised, 
 the publisher cannot hope that the work has wholly escaped errors or 
 omissions ; he will gratefully receive any advice of such blemishes, and 
 gives an assurance that they siuill be corrected in a subsequent edition. 
 lie ventures to call the attention of the public to the important adver- 
 tisements in the appendi.v. 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 Although the scope indicated by the title we have 
 adopted, does not distinctly embrace the environs of 
 this beantiful lake, it is too intimately associated 
 with the Champlain Valley, both by geographical 
 relations and historical recollections, to jnstify its 
 omission. The tourist has from an early period 
 been attracted to tlie n^gion, by the ex([uisite and 
 varied beauty of its scenery, and its stern and solemn 
 grandeur; by its traditions and history, and the 
 pathos shed around it by poetic genius. The lake 
 was distinguished in the varied Indian dialects by 
 dilferent names. The Iroquois called it Andiatar- 
 octe, "the lake that shuts itself in'': bv other 
 Tribes it was named, Canidere-oit, "the tail of the 
 lake." Faiher Jaques, traversing it in KUO, during 
 the festival of Corpus Cliristi, designated it St. 
 ►Sacrament, or the lake of the l^lessed Sacrament. 
 Sir William Johnson, in 1755, with the inspiration 
 of lovaltv, rather than the suiifo^estion of taste, rave 
 it the still recognized "name of Lak.- George. 
 Horicon, although redolent with beauv and a 
 name most approi)riate and desirable, seems to be a 
 pure poetical fancy. 
 
 Lake Geora'e is thirtv-six miles long and from 
 one to three wide. Along almost its whole course 
 it is enclosed by a dark frame work of mountain bar- 
 riers. This sierra frequently shuts in the waters by 
 nearly vertical Avails, occasionally projecting lofty 
 promontories and acute points into the lake, and 
 now embracing little glens slumbering along the 
 shores. The peaks are not high, but broken, and 
 present a wild and continuous undulation like the 
 waves of a heaving ocean. Innumerable islands, 
 varied in form and aspect'geni the surface and relieve 
 
 
 ■Sk..\^*'^ 
 
6 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 the monotony of the scene. The water is deep and 
 singularly pure and transparent. Fish gamboling 
 in its depths, and shining particles on the gravelly 
 bottom, may be discerned many feet beneath the 
 surface. Whv'u the traveller contemplates the pro- 
 found seclusion and tlie calm repose that now rest 
 upon the lake, he can scarcely conceive that its deep 
 trancjuility has ever been broken by the fierce pas- 
 sions of war; and yet almost every section of its 
 shores has been rendered memorable by some impor- 
 tant or thrilling military event. Its nearly inacces- 
 sible mountain ramparts, in another age, were tra- 
 versed by armed legions and hordes of savage war- 
 riors, wliile in summer its clear waters wafted the 
 Indian war canoe, and vast naval flotillas of civili- 
 zed nations, and in the season of frosts its icy sur- 
 face formed a secure and ready avenue for the 
 march of armies. In March, 175G, Vaudruil, avail- ^^^ AvUhII 
 ing himself of this extraordinary pathway, marched 
 with one thousand five hundred men from Ticon- 
 deroga on snow shoes, with the design of surpris- 
 ing Fort William Henry, but foiled by the vigilance 
 and skill of John Stark, the future conqueror of 
 Bennington, he retreated upon the ice. The reflec- 
 tion of a brilliant vernal sun from the dazzling 
 snow caused a temporary blindness in a large part of 
 the troops, Avho in this helpless condition could 
 pursue their march only by the aid of their 
 comrades. 
 
 Passing over many unimportant, although thril- 
 ling incidents, we propose to limit our narrative to 
 a brief notice of a few events, the magnitude and 
 results of which have imparted to the region a deep 
 and enduring interest. In the summer of 175o, 
 Gen. Johnson reached the head of Lake George with 
 about three thousand four hundred Provincial 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 Ma. 
 
 >^\tMjj 
 
 troops, tlie advance of an army designed for an 
 attack of tlie Frencli forts on Lake Champlain. 
 Baron Dieskau, a German oflBcer of high distinc- 
 tion, in the service of France, on the 4th of Septem- 
 ber proceeded from Ticonderoga witli a force com- 
 posed of six hundred Canadians, six hundred In- 
 dians and tliree hundred regularp, in bateaux, up 
 Wood Creek, and traversing the spacious, but shal- 
 low waters of KSouth Bay, left liis boats at its head, 
 penetrated through a wilderness of rocks, morasses 
 and forests, often crossing streams in Indian file 
 upon a log, with the purpose of occupying John- 
 son's communications, by the capture of Fort 
 Edward. On reaching the military road, which 
 Johnson had constructed, he discoverd that his 
 guides, either in ignorance or treachery, had wan- 
 dered from tlie intended course, and that he was 
 within a few miles of the camp of Johnson. His 
 inconstant red allies now refused to proceed to the 
 attack of Fort Edward, but professed a desire to 
 assail the British camp. While Dieskau Avas pre- 
 paring to indulge this caprice, he was informed of 
 the near approach of a detachment of the English. 
 Johnson heard of the advance of the Frencli with 
 equal surprise and alarm for the safety of the feeble 
 garrison and all important supplies at Fort Edward. 
 He immediately ordered Col. Ephraim AVilliams, the 
 founder of Williams' College, to march with one 
 thousand men, supported by Hendrick, the venera- 
 ble Mohawk Sachem, with two hundred savages, to 
 the relief oi the fort. Williams was a brave but 
 inexperienced leader. Hendrick was remarkable for 
 his military qualities and his surpassing savage elo- 
 quence. Dieskau, with promptitude and skill, had 
 arranged an ambush shrouded by rocks and bushes 
 on either side of the road. The Provincials entered 
 
8 
 
 LAKE OEOUGE. 
 
 V 
 
 into this vallov of deiitli, and tlii'ir destruction 
 {ippi'iired inevitiibli*, when some Seneeii Indiana, 
 livinf^ in Canada, arose from their covert, and dis- 
 cerning: I'roni their em])lems the presence of the 
 Mohawks, ilred in tlie air, and tlins by an unpreme- 
 ditated treach<jj'y revi-aled tlie ambush. Their fra- 
 ternal affeetion towards a l)and of tlie Irocpiois, was 
 superior to tlieir fealty to France. A tierce conflict 
 ensued. Tradition has niarlad the rock, now the 
 base of his monument, M'here earlv in the action 
 
 Willi 
 
 lell. The h 
 
 llendrick 
 
 dj 
 
 illiams ie(l.j J lie lieroic ilentlncK was slam 
 ■ about tlie same time by the thrush of a bayonet. 
 The detachment lied in disorder, but were rallied 
 by ('(»1. Wiiitinir, near a small ])ool,and the le.ovnd 
 runs, that tlie dead who fell in the second light 
 were cast into its waters, and gave to it, the name of 
 Bloody Pond. It was the purpose of iJieskau to 
 rai)idly follow the fugitives and ]>recipitate himself 
 upon the camp of Johnson. The desigi|^ which 
 would have achieved a brilliant victorv, was delaved 
 by the hesitancy of the Indians, aud the sullen 
 insubordination of the Canadians. This incidenf 
 gave to the Provincials the necessary time to con- 
 struct a rude breastwork formed bvJheir wagons 
 ami I'allen trees. Dioskau, with his veterans, cour- 
 ageously advanced to the assault. The severest and 
 most l)loody battle folh)Wed, that the wilds of the 
 new world had ever witnessed. Dieskau, a third 
 and fourtii time, hurled his devoted Frenchmen upon 
 the imi)enetral)le works. The enthusiastic l^rovin- 
 cials, at length, leaping over the entrenchments, 
 opposed their reversed hunting guns to the glitter- 
 ing bayonets. Dieskau, thrice wounded, was taken 
 prisoner, and the fragments of his army, totally 
 overwhelmed, fled to the forest and morasses. A 
 party of three hundred, pausing for a brief rest, 
 
 
 
 © 
 
 o 
 
LAKE (JEORGE. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 were surprised l)y a small (U'taclnnoiit of Provincials 
 ami attain routed and disix^rscd. Johnson was 
 wounded early in the severe hattle, which was won 
 by the valor of tlie troops, guided i)y the intrepidity 
 and skill of Lyman of Massachusetts. With a sin- 
 gular absence ot magnanimity, tiie name of Lyman 
 did not* appear in th.c oflicial rejiort. To himself, 
 Johnson arrofjated the ijlorv of the fjreat victorv, 
 and the roval acknowlcdi'ment he received, was a 
 Baronetcy with a grant of t'5,00u. The French • 
 sustained a loss of nearlv five hundred men, and the 
 Provincials and Mohawks one hundred l"ss. Amer- 
 icans will always view tiie scene of the victory with 
 no ordinary emotion, for on this field the yeomanry 
 of thf colonies, led l>v their own citizens, lirst met 
 and vanquished the trained legions of Europe. 
 Dieskau, l»leeding and faint, was home to the tent of 
 Johnson and his wants tenderly supplied, when a 
 number of Mohawks, exasperated by the death of 
 Ilendrick, burst into it and claimed the prisoner, 
 that by his sacrifice at the stake, they might expi- 
 ate the blood of their beloved Sachem. The firm- 
 ness and influence of Johnson could scarcelv avert 
 the frightful fate. This decisive success, besides 
 the repnlsc of the French invasion, yielded no 
 results to the colonies, except the erection, nearly 
 on the site of the entrenched camp, of Fort Wil- 
 liam Henry, destined to a sad and bloody }»re- 
 eminence. 
 
 Thp succeeding two years impressed upon the 
 environs of Lake George, traditions of the daring 
 exploits and reciprocal massacres of the Rangers 
 nnder Rogers and Putnam, and the French parti- 
 zans led by Marin, the legendary Molong, bnt 
 was signalized by no prominent event. In the 
 autumn of 1757, a party of three hundred and fifty 
 
10 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 provincals under Col. Parker, was attacked by a 
 band of Ottawas, led by the partizan Corbiere, at 
 Sabbath Day Point. Two boats, bearing fifty men, 
 alone escaped from the carnage. 
 
 Montcalm now appeared in the scenes ot a 
 momentous and sanguinary drama, in which he 
 was to perform so conspicuous a role. Of high birth, 
 an able soldier, and accomplished scholar, he was 
 one of the commanding characters of an age, proli- 
 . fie in great men. Determined on the destruction of 
 William Henry, an object of alarm and anxiety to 
 the Canadian government, he aroused the savage 
 warriors from Acadia to Lake Huron. They gatli- 
 ered at St. Johns, and in an imposing fleet of two 
 hundred canoes ascended Lake Champlain, to unite 
 their rude forces at Ticonderoga with the veterans 
 of Montcalm. The spectacle was strange and pic- 
 turesque, when the deep silence of tliese secluded 
 waters was broken by the barbarian lleet, bearing 
 the insignia of the dift'erent Chiefs, and the war song 
 wildly blending with the hymns of the Christian 
 Indians. Montcalm assembled his armv, amount- 
 inii' to lifty-live hundred men, and sixteen hundred 
 Indians, at the foot of Lake George, and there held 
 a formal council with the savage tril)es. De Levis, 
 with tweiity-two hundred French, escorted by six 
 hundred Indians, marched along the broken sierra 
 on the western shore of the lake, by paths scarcely 
 practicable to the Indian or solitary liunter. Two 
 days later Montcalm embarked the remainder of his 
 forces in four hundred and fifty bateaux and canoes, 
 transporting his artillery on platforms resting upon 
 two boats lashed together. On the second day, he 
 discerned the three signal fires kindled by Do Levis 
 at Ganouskie Bay, to announce the success of his 
 arduous marcli and tlie assurance of a secure disem- 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 11 
 
 I 
 
 barkation. Montcalm effected an immediate 
 landing, moored hii boats in Harris Bay, near Long 
 Island, and the next day invested William Henry. 
 The fort was occupied by a gallant veteran. Colonel 
 
 o 
 
 Monro, with a garrison of live hundred men, sup- 
 ported by a detachment of seventeen hundred 
 troops in a entrenched camp upon the ground, indi- 
 cated by the ruins of Fort George, a later structure. 
 Gen. Webb, was encamped with a formidable army 
 near Fort Edward, but made no effort to support or 
 relieve the troops at William Henry. The siege 
 was pressed Avith the utmost energy by Montcalm, 
 and resisted with resolute heroism, but on the sixth 
 day he was compelled to ask terms of capitula- 
 tion. By this capitulation the English were per- 
 mitted to march out of the works, bearing their 
 arms, and were to be protected in their retreat to 
 Fort Edward by a French escort. The English 
 scarcely passed from the protection of their works, 
 when the Indians assaulted them, first with insults 
 and menaces, but soon by the tomahawk and scalp- 
 ing knife. The savages maddened by the orgies of 
 the last night in celebration of their victory, and in- 
 flamed by a deadly hostility against the English, 
 recognized no authority. The English, panic 
 stricken, fled, although with arms in their hands, 
 without resistance. Montcalm and other French 
 officers hastened to the scene and by every effort 
 and personal hazard attempted to protect the pri- 
 soners. " Kill me," shouted Montcalm, " but spare 
 my prisoners." This event has cast a deep shadow 
 upon the fame of Montcalm, little softened by the 
 mellowing influence of more than a centurv. The 
 imputation, stimulated by the angry passions of 
 that age, that the massacre was a deliberate purpose, 
 is un worth V consideration. It was rather a con- 
 
12 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 H 
 
 sequence of the atrocious policy of introducing an 
 ungovernable savage element into the conflicts of 
 civilized nations. The estimate of men, women and 
 children slain in this massacre, varied from thirty 
 to one hundred. The remainder of the garrison- 
 either effected an escape or were rescued or ransom- 
 ed by the French. The acquisition of a vast amount 
 of munitions and public stores, and creating an alarm 
 that convulsed the entire northern colonies, were the 
 results of this brilliant conquest. Montcalm demol- 
 ished the Fort and left it, 
 
 " But a mass ofasbes, slaked with blood." 
 
 The Indians in their eager pursuit of spoils and 
 scalps violated the new made graves, and tore from 
 the festering bodies these horrid trophies. Some 
 of tliese bodies were victims of tlie small pox. The 
 savao'es contracted the infection, and cariied the 
 dred scourge to their wigwams in the far west, where 
 it spread with frightful desolation. 
 
 The summer of 1758 Avitnessed the assembling, 
 at the head of Lake George, of the most magnifi- 
 cent armament ever before marshalled on the west- 
 ern continent, consisting of nine thousand Provin- 
 cials and six^thousand regulars, under Abercrombie, 
 but inspired by the genius and enterprise of the 
 youthful Howe. At the dawning of a beautiful sum- 
 mer morning on tlie oth of July, the expedition 
 embarked on more than a thousand Ijoats. The 
 formidable artillery was transported on rafts. The 
 world has rarely exhibited a scene so strauijelv ffor- 
 geous and impressive. Nature reigned upon the 
 tranquil waters, and on the bold, dark shores of the 
 lake in primeval solitude and seclusion. Ko human 
 habitation was tliere. Amid the clangour of mar- 
 tial music ; the glittering of burnished arms ; the 
 gleaming of the bright scarlet, mingled with the 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 13 
 
 ranger's green and the homespun garments of the 
 Provincials, the fleet, in regular columns, rapidly 
 glided down the lake. That night the army lay on 
 Sabbath Day Point, — not then first receiving that 
 appellation, for long before, it was known by the 
 the name. At midnight it proceeded silently and 
 with muffled oars, Howe leading the van, and 
 landed without opposition on the western shore, at 
 the extremity of the lake in a small bay, still called 
 Howe's Landing. 
 
 The army advanced upon the French works in 
 three columns, along the devious paths of a dense 
 wood. That led bv Howe encountered a fu2:itive 
 detachment of French troops under Trapazee, wan- 
 dering in the mazes of the forest. A bloody skir- 
 mish ensued, and the French were repulsed with 
 great loss, but Howe fell at tlie first fire, and with 
 iiim expired the hope and spirit of the English army. 
 His body was Ijorne l)y Pliilip Schuyler, then a gal- 
 lant youth, to Albany, and buried in St. Peter's 
 Churcli, with every solemnity and pomp of religious 
 ritual and military honors. 
 
 Abercrombie withdrew to the landing, lost in 
 vacillating delay a precious day, and yielded to his 
 energetic adversary the opportunity of arranging 
 his defences. Montcalm occupied the bold pro- 
 montory at Ticonderoga, which is washed on two 
 sides by tlie waters of Champlain, and on the third 
 by the outlet of Lake George. The French lines 
 were constructed about half a mile in advance of 
 Fort Carillon, and along a position of peculiar 
 strength. The procrastination of Abercrombie 
 enabled Montcalm to form in front of his entrench- 
 ment an abatis about one hundred yards wide, con- 
 structed with felled trees, lying intermingled, and 
 (heir pointed limbs projecting outward. The 
 
14 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 rf 
 
 ii 
 'I 
 
 French were engaged in perfecting this original 
 defence, when the approach of the English was 
 announced. They were summoned by a signal gun 
 to their stations behind the parapets, which were 
 from eight to ten feet liigh, and about an eighth of 
 a league in length. The lines were defended by 
 two thousand nine hundred and ninety-two men. 
 The British regulars, supported by the Provincials 
 and light Infantry with a firm and steady step and 
 bayonets fixed, advanced in four massive columns. 
 But when they reached the impenetrable abatis all 
 order and form were broken; they attempted to 
 achieve by individual prowess what organization 
 could not accomplish, and assailed in desperate and 
 unyielding valour, one point and then another. 
 They could not advance, and high courage and the 
 instincts of discipline forbade their retreat. Exposed 
 to a destructive fire of musketry and cannon, they 
 were swept down by a frightful carnage. Montcalm, 
 his coat cast off, was every while present in the wildest 
 tempest of the battle; but Abercrombie, in ignoble 
 safety at the saw mills, two miles from the field, 
 sent no order for retreat from the hopeless conflict. 
 From noon, for five hours, beneath a burning July 
 sun, amid this carnage and desperation, the British 
 troops maintained the contest. A few of the noble 
 Highlanders gained and died upon the parapet, 
 but at length regiment after regiment sullenly 
 abandoned the field. And yet these brave veterans, 
 whose heroic valour has received the admiring hom- 
 age of theii conquerors, equally with their country, 
 on their retreat were seized with a sudden and inex- 
 plicable panic, and rushing impetuously to the boats 
 seized them in the wildest confusion. Many were 
 doubtless preserved, alone by the energy of Brad- 
 street, from a death beneath the waters of the lake. 
 
 » s 
 
LAKE GEOKGE. 
 
 15 
 
 they had escaped before the walls of Carillon. 
 Abercrombie did not pause until he had placed 
 the length of Lake George between his vast army 
 and the insignificant forces of Montcalm. The 
 British commander admitted a loss of two thousand 
 men, while that of the French did not exceed five 
 hundred, chiefly inflicted by the Provincial riflemen. 
 The visitor can readilv trace the scene of this tre- 
 mendous conflict. The line of tlie fatal abatis, 
 within a few years was marked by the memorials of 
 war, found in its track. 
 
 In the succeeding year, Montcalm, leaving small 
 garrisons in the Champlain forts, withdrew his 
 army to confront Wolfe on the banks of the St. 
 Lawrence, and Amherst, landing an army of twelve 
 thousand men at a point opposite Howe's cove, 
 after a l)rief seige, entered the evacuated fortress at 
 Ticonderoga. One column of Burgoyne's army 
 under Pjiillips in liTi', advanced througli Lake 
 George, and taking possession of the naked walls of 
 Ft. George, which had been dismantled by Schuyler, 
 established there and upon Dianiond island depots 
 of supplies and munitions, and the proximate base 
 of the Britisfli army. The year before, a detach- 
 ment of militia encountered a party of tories and 
 Indians, at Sabliatli Pay Point, and defeated them 
 with severe loss. Col. John Brown, in the autumn 
 of 1777, penetratt'd the rugged barriers between 
 Lake (Jeoige jind Champlain, with five hundred 
 American rangers, captured tlie British forts and 
 flotilla at the landing on Lake George, and upon 
 his return made an unsuccessful attack on Diamond 
 island. 
 
 This rapid sketch of a region so singularly affluent 
 in historical associations, will enable the intelligent 
 tourist to trace the scenes of these events with 
 
16 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 4 
 
 precision and interest. We will now briefly review 
 its varied modern aspects which seem important or 
 attractive to the visitor. Caldwell, at the head of 
 Lake George, and which is reached from Glens Falls 
 by a line of elegant coaches, connecting Avitli cars 
 from Ft. Edward, has long been a favorite resort to 
 the summer tourist, from the beauty of the scenery 
 and its historical interest. The ruins of Ft. George, 
 about a mile south east, are still visible. 
 
 Near Caldwell are two eminences which afford a 
 fine views of the lake and the scenerv of an extended 
 territory; IJattle-snake Cobble rises south of the 
 village, and may be readily ascended. Prospect 
 Mountain is higher and more difificult of access; 
 Feach mountain, on the east side of the lake, will 
 interest the tourist. The eleoant summer residence 
 of Mr. George 11. Cramer is a charming ornament 
 to this beautiful spot. 
 
 Two first class hotels, second to none in the 
 Union for their elegance and refinement, are open for 
 the reception of summer guests. The LakeHouse and 
 Fort AVilliam Henry Hotel* are both capacious and 
 admirably appointed houses. The latter is surpassed 
 by few, in its spacious dimensions, and by none in 
 the superiority of its arrangements. Mr. Roessle, of 
 this house, is celebrated wherever pleasure travel 
 has extended, for the taste, forecaste and liberality 
 with which he conducts his magnificent establish- 
 ment. 
 
 AVe will enumerate, as far as practicable, the vari- 
 ous resorts on Lake George, to partially guide the 
 travelling public. 
 
 United states Hotel, Caldwell. 
 Lake Geort;e Hotel, " 
 Trout Pavilion, Oucenebury. 
 Mohecan House, Bolton. 
 
 Bolton Houpo. Bclton. 
 
 14 Mile Island House, 14 Mile Island. 
 
 Lake Oeorgo House, Hague. 
 
 A house building on Long Island. 
 
 Two small steamers, the Minnehaha and the 
 
 *Scc advertisements in Appendix. 
 
I 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 ir 
 
 Oanouskio, owned by the Cli<imi)hiiii Ti'unsporta- 
 tion Company, rnn upon Lake George. One makes 
 a daily trip to and from Tieonderoga and the ether 
 is appropriated to pleasure excursions. About two 
 miles down the lake is the lovely little island, known 
 as Tea Island. The next is Diamond Island, deriv- 
 ing its name from the profusion of crystals formerly 
 found upon it. The next important point is Long 
 Island, twelve miles from Caldwell. Near the centre 
 of the lake beyond, is Dome Island, which Avill be 
 recognized in tlie distance by its dome like arch. 
 West of this is liecluse Island, a little spot occupied 
 by the cottage of Mr. Wattles of New York. The 
 next landing is Bolton. Four miles beyond is Four- 
 teen mile island; in this vicinity is re])orted to be 
 the best lishiug grounds in the lake. Shelving' 
 Rock, a liigh cliff on the eastern sliore, and Torgue 
 mountain, a l)old and beautiful promontory on the 
 oppo.^ito side, form tlu:* entrance to the Narrows. 
 This })ortion of tlie lake is celebrated for its strik- 
 ingly picturesque ])eauties, It is often referred to as 
 the '' Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence," in 
 miniature. The Narrows are a contracted passage of 
 the lake, where the ojiposito shores nearly approach 
 each other, and bevond and in view, the numerous 
 islands so cluster together and crowd the lake, that 
 onlv a sinuous track remains to be threaded bv the 
 little steamer. Immediately north of Shelving: 
 Rock, on the east side of the lake, Avill be noticed 
 Black Mountain, two thousand two hundred feet 
 high, and the loftiest peak in the region. Guides 
 may always be obtained to ascend the mountain, and 
 from its summit will be enjoyed an extensive and 
 delightful view. Nearly opposite Black Mountain 
 is Half Way Island, indicating half the distance 
 between Caldwell and Tieonderoga. We pass several 
 
18 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 
 r 
 
 little islands, design'vtecl by various fanciful names. 
 On the east shore lies, at the foot of a pleasant bay, 
 the small settlement in Dresden. Nearly opposite, 
 on the west shore, is Buck's Mountain, eight hun- 
 dred feet in height; its name originated from a 
 sensational story of a buck in leaping from a preci- 
 pice being impaled on the sharp limbs of a dead 
 tree. The next object that will be noticed is Sab- 
 bath Day Point, a narrow spit of laud projecting 
 into the lake ; on the other side is Bluff Point and 
 the Odell Isljind, and on the west the Scotch Bonnet, 
 Two miles farther north, nestling in the midst of 
 charming scenery and near choice fishing grounds, 
 two prominent cliffs will be noticed. Anthony's 
 Nose on the east, and Rogers' Slide, four hundred 
 feet high, on the west. The tradition of Rogers' 
 adventure is now regarded as apochryphal; but an 
 event occurred in the immediate vicinity impressed 
 by almost equal romance. Early iu the Spring of 
 1758 Rogers, with one huudred and eighty-two men 
 traversed the ice of Lake George on snow shoes, 
 with a view of reconnoisance, and when near the 
 foot of the lake, plunged into the forest covered 
 with snow four feet in depth. He fell into an ambush, 
 and the Indians bore to Montcalm, as trophies of 
 victory, one hundred and forty-four scalps and "two 
 living letters," their designation of prisoners they 
 saved for intelligence. Rogers himself escaped. 
 The circumstances leave little doubt, that this 
 terrific battle was fought on snow shoes. (Watson's 
 Essex County.) Two miles beyond, after passing 
 Prisoner's Island, the steamer reaches her landing. 
 A delightful ride, upon excellent coaches along the 
 picturesque course of the river, abounding in the 
 most exciting associations of history and tradition, 
 conveys the traveller to the Pavilion, a splendip 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 19 
 
 hotel near the ruins of Fort Carillon. At the land- 
 ing is situated the Fort Ticouderoga Hotel. We 
 should be sadly remiss in a duty to the public should 
 we fail to announce that the line of coaches 
 referred to, is owned by Wm. G. Baldwin, the prince 
 of stagemen and speech makers. 
 
 We will pause in the narrative of this attractive 
 locality, while we notice another route of travel, 
 which connects here with that through Lake George, 
 which we have just traced. The Rensselair and 
 Saratoga Railroad continues from the Whitehall 
 depot about a mile, to a point below, which is known 
 as the Elbow. A notice of this railway is not 
 embraced in our plan, but a few remarks will not 
 be without interest to the travelling community. 
 The Rensselaer and Saratoga road is one of the 
 most perfect in the country, both in its construction 
 and felicity of location. A large proportion of it 
 is already laid with steel rails. This line forms 
 the most direct and eligible route between New 
 York and the northern lakes and Canada. A branch 
 has been constructed from Fort Edward to Glens 
 Falls, in the direction of Lake George. The Renss- 
 elaer & Saratoga Company have erected at Saratoga 
 Springs a magnificent depot; palace cars, during 
 the summer travel, run without change from New 
 York to the Springs, and passengers leaving the 
 city after breakfast arrive at Saratoga to an early 
 dinner. The management of this road, under its 
 present direction, is conducted with rare ability and 
 prudence. Isaac V. Baker is the General Superin- 
 tendent. 
 
 At the Elbow, and in the estuary opposite formed 
 by the Poultney river, the contending fleets at the 
 battle of Plattsburgh were dismantled after the peace 
 
20 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 ill 
 
 I 
 
 of 1815, and left to a common decay; tlieir hulks, 
 buried in the mud, still remain. Immediately below 
 is ''Put's Ilock," the scene of his moonlight battle 
 and victory over Marin. At the landing, the trav- 
 eller will embark upon one of the majestic steamers 
 of the Ohamplain Transportation Company, which 
 form a day and niglit line between AVhitehall and 
 Eouse's Point, connecting with various railroad 
 routes on their passage. The Adirondack, Captain 
 Wm. Anderson, is a first class steamer, of superior 
 beauty and great power, and arranged with every 
 aj^pliance calculated to secure comfort and safety ; 
 she possesses state-room accommodations for thr«^e 
 hundred passengers. The Vermont, a corresponding 
 vessel, somewhat larger, will be pr(.'})ared to enter 
 the line at the opening of summer travel in 1871, 
 under the command of Capt. Wm. II. Flagg. Tliese 
 officers are veterans in their profession : the former 
 has been in the service of the Company forty, and 
 the latter more than thirty years, and liave always 
 been distinguished for their capacity, intelligence 
 aiul courteous deportment. Passengers under all 
 circumstances may repose unl)ouiuled confidence in 
 their skill and prudence. Several of the subordinate 
 officers and crew have been nearly an equal period 
 in the same employment. These vessels are models 
 of elegance, neatness and convenience ; their tasteful 
 furnishing is wholly of native woods, and they are 
 regarded as second to no steamer that floats on 
 American waters. The United States, Capt. George 
 Rushlow, an older vessel, but of good speed and 
 with excellent accommodations, completes the line. 
 This Company has been in existence more than 
 half a century, and transporting, in numerous 
 steamers, probably more thau a million of passen- 
 gers, has lost through that long period upon the 
 
 M 
 
LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 21 
 
 lake but one boat, aiul that by accidental fire, with- 
 out losing at any time u single passi nger. Col. Le 
 Grand B. Cannon, as President, and Alvin L. In- 
 man, General Siiperinicixlcnt, are the active and 
 efficient managers of this Cuin|)iiny. "We shall have 
 occasion on succeeding pages to recur to these 
 steamers and their management. 
 
 Soon after leaving the wharf, South Bay, the 
 route of Dieskau, a deep indentation on the west 
 shore, will l)e noticed. The tourist will watch with 
 interest the steamer cautiously threading her way 
 along the meandering course of the channel, among 
 the rank a([uatic grasses of the marshes. The 
 French ai)propriately designated this singular tract 
 the "Grand Marias." They called the narrow sheet 
 of water from Whitehall to its confluence with the 
 outlet of Lake George at Ticonderoga, Wood Creek, 
 and at that point Lake Champlain specifically com- 
 menced. The steamer lands at Benson, Vt., thirteen 
 miles from Whitehall, and Orwell, seven miles 
 farther. 
 
:1 
 
 I 
 
 h\ 
 
 V: 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 Samuel de Champlain, a distiDguishccl French 
 officer and enthusiastic explorer, joined a war party 
 of the Algonquinsin an expedition against a South- 
 ern tribe, and on the 4th July, 1G09, entered upon 
 the waters of the lake. The date is worthy of notice, 
 as the discovery of Champlain occurred nine years 
 previous to the landing of the Pilgrims,at Plymouth, 
 'uul only a few weeks before Ilendrick Hudson had 
 reached the site of Albanv, in the Half Moon. The 
 lake has received various names. Among those 
 applied to it in the aboriginal dialects, weiv? Petaon- 
 bough, in allusion to the aliernalions in its scenery 
 of land and waiter, and Caniadere-'juarante, the 
 •'dour of the countrv.*' Tlie discoverer called it 
 Champlain. The French afterwards designated it 
 Lac des Iroquois, but posterity, with greater justice, 
 has restored the aj^jn'opriate name. The lake fi'om 
 Whitehall to St. Johns, is one hundred and twen- 
 ty miles in length, and is about: thirteen miles in 
 width, oi)[)osite Port Kent, at its broadest point. 
 
 The rare and exceeding 1)eauty of this lake 
 attracts uiid entrances the observer. Travellers 
 pronounce it to be unsurpassed in either hemis- 
 phere, in its p', culiar combination of the pictur- 
 esque and beautiful with imi)osing magniticence. 
 On the eastern shore it is lined by a highly culti- 
 vated country, bounded in the liorizon by the irre- 
 gular outline of Green Moiint:iins; on the west, the 
 dark and towering Adirondacks, broken into dis- 
 
 1 
 
 Lti 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 23 
 
 t. 
 
 4 
 
 like 
 
 
 krs 
 
 
 iiis- 
 
 
 tiir- 
 
 
 11 ce. 
 
 
 ilti- 
 
 
 iTe- 
 
 
 the 
 
 
 ilis- 
 
 M 
 
 located groups, spread into the interior as far as the 
 eye reaches, at points projecting their rugged spurs 
 into the bosom of the lake, and often forming lofty 
 headlands covered by dense foi^sts, or presenting 
 frowning masses of naked rocks. Choice ranges of 
 table land intervene occasionally, strikingly contras- 
 ting with the rude mountain scenery, by the rich- 
 est agricultural improvements, and embellishment 
 of pleasant villages. Numberless islands enhance 
 the beauty of the scene. The ice usually forms in 
 the widest part of the lake near the first of Febru- 
 ary, and remains until about the middle of April. 
 The transition from navigation to ice is often amaz- 
 ingly rapid. The spectacle aflforded by this vast 
 expanse of icy surface is strangely brilliant and 
 exhilerating. At a former period it furnished a 
 most convenient military avenue, often embraced by 
 the French and Indians in their terrible and bloody 
 incursions into the English colonies. Before 
 the introduction of railroads it was made the great 
 highway of commercial intercourse. It is still a 
 most delightful field of excursion when the pleasure 
 sleigh, bounding along its smooth crystal surface, 
 disturbs the stillness of the strange solitude by the 
 chimes of its merry bells. Little danger is incurred 
 except in crossing the cracks, which, bursting the ice 
 asundtr, from headland to headland, with a sound 
 like the crashing of thunder, or booming of artillery 
 appear soon after its formation has shut over the 
 lake. When the strength of the ice is impaired by 
 the warm sun and balmy air of spring, the passage 
 becomes eminently hazardous. Incidents of suffer- 
 ing and exposure from the cold upon the lake often 
 present scenes of thrilling excitement. One of these 
 cannot l)e without interest. A stranger accompan- 
 ied by a small spaniel arrived at Port Kent near 
 
! 1 
 
 M 
 
 LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 
 
 nightfall in the midst of ii snow storm, and persist- 
 ed in crossing the lake against the strongest remon- 
 strance, a foot and alone. Early next morning the 
 dog aroused the i?imates of the hotel, where the 
 traveller had stopped, and by every demonstration 
 of anxiety attempted to excite attention and sym- 
 pathy. Guided by the little animal, who imme- 
 diately returned to the ice, several persons followed 
 him to nearly the centre of the lake, when he rushed 
 upon an apparent snow drift and began to dig into 
 it, with the most piteous cries, lie soon revealed 
 beneath the wreath of snow the lifeless body of a 
 master his fidelity and courage had failed to save. 
 The pathetic tale should not be closed, without 
 stating tliat the faithful animal was preserved and 
 cherislied as his fidelity and intelligence deserved. 
 
 The scenery of the lake in the winter is indescri- 
 bably beautiful and imposing, Avhen earth and ice 
 are clothed in their pure dazzling mantle of snow, 
 and the mountains glow in the sun Ijcanis, like vast 
 masses of opal. 
 
 Lake Champlain v/ill attain a far more momen- 
 tous commercial attitude than it has ever occu- 
 pied, if the magnificent conception of uniting the 
 waters of the 8t. Lawrence with the Hudson by 
 ship canals, of which the lake would be an impor- 
 tant link, should be realized. 
 
 Ticonderoga is twenty-four miles fromWhitehall. 
 Champlain undoubtedly penetrated as fur as this 
 point, and probably visited Lake George. Li this 
 vicinity must have occurred the merciless battle 
 with the Iroquois, he described with such graphic 
 power i)\ his journal, and an account of which will 
 be found in all the recent histories of the region. 
 The venerable ruins standing upon the bold, rocky 
 summit of the promontory, is viewed with peculiar 
 
LAKE CIIAMPLAIX. 
 
 OK 
 
 )ii bv 
 
 teluill. 
 this 
 ii this 
 
 Dattle 
 laphic 
 li will 
 
 3gioii. 
 
 focky 
 
 jiiliar 
 
 advantage in the approach from the South. The 
 fortress at Ticonderoga, called by the French Caril- 
 lon, bears the same allusion as Che-onderoga, the 
 original of Ticonderoga, to the brawling waters of 
 the outlet, was commenced in 1755. ;N"o spot on 
 the continent is surrounded with a deeper and more 
 thrilling interest. Not only from its majestic ruins, 
 and hoary age, does it claim attention, but deep 
 emotion is aroused by the fact that it has been held 
 by the military possession of three distinct nations, 
 and is the common theatre of their glories auC. tri- 
 umphs, and of their defeats and disasters. Its envi- 
 rons were the nursery of the heroes of the revolution. 
 Most of the ramparts, the covered way, and walls of 
 the edifices remain, and will attract and reward the 
 researches of the toui'ist. The bakery, situated near 
 the south-western angle of the barracks, and beneath 
 the glacis, is the best preserved portion of the works. 
 Immediately above the steamboat landing, may be 
 traced the "Grenadiers' Battery,"' at one period a 
 formidable redoubt. Mount Detiance, rising to the 
 height of seven hundred and tit'ty feet, stands 
 directly south of the fort on the opposite side of the 
 outlet, and Mount Independence, a high circular 
 hill, is situated across tlie lake ou the A^erniont 
 shore. Both of these localities are associated with 
 important revolutionary events. 
 
 The 15ritish had held these works more than fif- 
 teen years in undisturbed security. It was occu- 
 pied in the spring of 1775 by Capt.'De La Place, 
 with a garrison of forty men. The events at Lex- 
 ington admonished the American patriots of the 
 importance of seizing and occupying the position, 
 and early measures were devised for achieving the 
 object. On the 7th of May, an intrepid band of 
 
 2 
 
I 
 
 1 
 
 \ \ 
 
 H 
 
 I i 
 
 is 
 
 I 
 
 i 5 
 
 ? i 
 i t 
 
 I 
 
 If 
 
 ) .f 
 
 26 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 two hundred and seventy men, all but forty-six of 
 whom were " Green Mountain Boys," led by Ethan 
 Allen, with Benedict Arnold, and other subordi- 
 nates, who subsequently attained high distinction, 
 were secretly assembled at Hand's Cove, about a 
 mile north of Larabee's Point. Here they remained 
 a day and night; and early on the morning of the 
 8th began their passage to Willow Point, on the 
 west side of the lake. When only eighty men had 
 crossed, the day was dawning, and Allen decided to 
 advance to tlie attack of tbe fort witliout pausing 
 for tlie arrival of the remainder of his force. He 
 was guided by Nathan Beaman, a lad, who lived to 
 narrate to the present generation, the wonderful 
 exploit. By a rapid, (piiet march, they reached the . 
 covered way, through which the visitor now enters 
 unnoticed. Tlie sentinel stationed here, snapped 
 his musket at the breast of Allen and hastily 
 retreated, followed by the Americans, who, forming 
 in two lines upon the parade, awoke the garrison by 
 appalling shouts. The first door on the second 
 story of the best preserved l)uilding, on the left of 
 the parade, led, it is believed, to the apartment of 
 De La Place, who, aroused by the tumult rushed in 
 liis night-dress to the balcony, there to be confronted 
 by Allen, where the memorable enquiry and 
 resi'.onse, too familiar to be repeated, occurred. The 
 fortress, which had cost such an intinite amount of 
 blood and treasure, was won without a blow, and with 
 it, one hundred and twenty-five pieces of artillery,and 
 a vast quantity of ammunition and military stores. 
 The value of this acquisition was fully appreciated 
 the ensuing winter, when large trains of ox sleds 
 were seen traversing a wilderness of two hundred 
 miles, transporting the heavy guns to arm the bat- 
 teries of Washington at the siege of Boston. 
 
 \ 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 27 
 
 111 the summer of 1777, a new scene opened 
 in the eventful history of Ticonderoga. General 
 St. Clair held the works with a large but ineffective 
 and inadequate garrison. Mt. Independence bristled 
 from base to summit with batteries and redoubts, 
 but the feeble forces of the Americans did not per- 
 mit the occupation of Mt. Defiance. On the first of 
 July, Burgoyne, after seizing the abandoned works 
 at Crown Point, advanced in three columns against 
 Ticonderoga. Phillips captured an important emi- 
 nence near the Lake George landing, which tradi- 
 tion avers, he then named ''Mt. Hope," from the 
 auspicious influence of its capture on the campaign. 
 The first ravs of the sun on the morninc: of the fifth 
 glittered on the bright scarlet of British uniforms 
 upon the top of Mt. Defiance. Burgoyne, by incredi- 
 ble efforts, had ascended the steep acclivities, hith- 
 erto deemed impracticable, and erected a battery 
 mounted with heavy guns, which rendered the 
 works wholly untenable. It was promptly decided 
 to evacuate the entire position, and the purpose was 
 attempted in the silence and darkness of the follow- 
 i);g night. St. Clair embarking on a flotilla of two 
 hundred boats, his sick, stores and all munitions 
 practicable convoyed by five galleys, proceeded to 
 Skeensboro. His army was silently crossing tlie 
 bridge that he had constructed at an enormous t x- 
 pense between Ticonderoga and Mt. Independence, 
 vestiges of which still at times interfere with navi- 
 gation, when a flame from a burning house on Mt. 
 Independence shed a bright illumination ujjon the 
 scene, and exposed the movement. Tlie British army 
 was instantly alarmed, and in pursuit. Burgoyne, 
 bursting through the ponderous bridge and boom, 
 with great energy pursued the flotilla, which was 
 burned or captured at Skeensboro. The American 
 
I 
 
 u> 
 
 ;i H 
 
 I : 
 
 V 
 
 28 
 
 LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 
 
 army, after the battle of Hubbardton, was for a period 
 dispersed. In the autuinii of the same year. Captain 
 Ebenezer Allen was despatched by Colonel Brown, 
 during his expedition already mentioned, to seize 
 the works erected by Burgoyne on ^It. Defiance. 
 Scaling cautiously the steep precipices of the moun- 
 tain, so abrupt, that in some places the assailants 
 were obliged to climb over each other's shoulders, 
 the resolute little band, cai)tnred the battery with- 
 out firing a single shot. The British maintained 
 the occupation of the fortress until the practical 
 close of the war. 
 
 A section of the Whitehall and Plattsburgh Iiail- 
 road is constructed between Ticonderoga and Port 
 Henry, a distance of seventeen miles, and is now in 
 operation. 
 
 On the Vermont shore, the first landing, about 
 two miles, is Larabee's Point, in Shoreham, — 
 (United States Hotel.) At the landing in Crown 
 Point is situated a new and pleasant hotel. A mile 
 in the interior is the village of Hammond Corners, 
 in the midst of a most delightful country. The trav- 
 eller's attention will soon be attracted by the ruins 
 of Crown Point; opposite Crown Point is Chimney 
 Point, presenting a bold bluff, designated by the 
 French ''Point alaCheveleur. The allusion conveyed 
 by the name is loss. This position was seized by the 
 French before their occupation of Crown Point in 
 1731. The idea, imparted by the formation of this 
 peninsula, has been recognized in the name applied 
 to it in various languages. The Dutch called it 
 "Crune Pont," the French, ''Pointe Le Caronne," 
 and the English, Crown Point. It was a place of 
 considerable commercial importance during the 
 French and English ascendency, where the com- 
 modities of the British provinces met and were 
 
LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 
 
 29 
 
 5J 
 
 exchanged for tlie peltries gathered by the French 
 and Indians upon their Avide liunting grounds. Flag- 
 ged side walks, a long line of celljirs, garden walls 
 fruit trees, and otlier memorials of the i)ast, fur- 
 nish evidences of the former presence of a dense and 
 civilized poi)ulation. Tiie ruins, which will be 
 observed from the steamer, are remains of the fort 
 erected by Amlierst in 1759. A part of the barracks 
 and tlie Ibrtifications are in good preservation, and 
 altliough not tinged with any of tlie romance tliat 
 entrances at Carillon, are interestin": as memorials 
 
 of more than a century ago. 'IMie Fort of St. Fred- 
 eric, l)uilt in 1731 by the French, stood near the 
 margin of the lake. Its position can be easily traced. 
 The oven, the (covered way and magazine are still 
 discernible. The garrison well, in Amherst's fort, 
 almost one hundred feet deep, remains, and the 
 course of the covered way leading to the hike nniy 
 readily be discerned. 
 
 Two miles across Bulwagga liay, the ])oat reaches 
 Port Henry. At the south api)ears tin; rough accliv- 
 ities of th(; l^ulwagga Mountains. Port Henry is 
 pleasantly situated. It is the; site of one of the most 
 extensive iron works in the region, and the ship- 
 ping point to every section of the country of the 
 immense amount of ore excavated from the rocky 
 hills in the interior. Thu traveller may frequently 
 observe large Ileets of canal boats discharging their 
 coal from Pennsylvania, and receiving return car- 
 goes of iron ore. Pease' Hotel, is situated here; 
 the Sherman House al)out two miles in the interior, 
 and contiguous to the vast mineral district. Both 
 are spacious and excellent houses. A small steamer, 
 the Curlew, plies between Port Henry and Vergen- 
 nes daily. Leavinn^ Vergennes at 0.30 A. M., on the 
 arrival of the soutliern train, and stopping at Fort 
 
ill 
 
 nil 
 
 
 V 
 
 i: 
 
 ..i ! 
 
 30 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 Cassin, Westport and Basin Harbor, arrives at 
 Port Henry in advance of the northern boat, and de- 
 parts at 1.30 P.M., after the arrival of the sonth boat. 
 After leaving Port Henry the mountain views on 
 each side of the lake begin to unfold to the tourist, 
 in their beauty and grandeur. The Bald Mountain, 
 standing midway between Port Henry and West- 
 port, is about two thousand feet high. It is easily 
 accessible, and from its isolated position and prox- 
 imity to the water, affords a rich panoramic view of 
 the lake, a length of fifty miles, and of the Vermont 
 shore, with the surrounding mountains on every 
 side. Near the base of the mountain, lie the "Adiron- 
 dack Springs." 
 
 Westport, a i>leasant village ten miles from Port 
 Henry, lies at the head of north-west bay, — (Person's 
 Hotel.) The spires of Vergennes, in the east, will 
 soon be perceived. The lake again contracts in 
 breadth, and at its narrowest point are the ruins of 
 Fort Cassin, at the mouth of Otter Creek, (Riviere 
 aux Loutres,) the largest river in Vermont, and 
 navigable eight miles to Vergennes. In the war of 
 18P2, Lieut. Cassin of the Navy, repulsed a British 
 flotilla, attempting to burn McDonough's fleet on 
 the stocks at A^ergennes, from a hastily construc- 
 ted redoubt at this place. W^hen the fort was sub- 
 sequently built, it received its name in commemo- 
 ration ot the achievement. The Fort Cassin House 
 is a quiet and agreeable resort. On the opposite side 
 of the lake are Split Rock Mountains, with a Light 
 House at the north extremity. In front of this, is a 
 remarkable formation called by the French " Roche 
 Fendu," and now known as Split Rock. It contains 
 about half an acre of earth and rock, and rises thirty 
 feet in a bold and vertical front, being separated 
 from the main land by a fissure ten feet wide, which 
 
 m 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 31 
 
 in high water is submerged by the lake. Various 
 theories are advanced in reference to the agencies 
 by which this interesting object was formed ; the 
 most probable of these is, that the gradual attrition 
 of the earth and disintegration of the rock, were 
 produced by the combined action of the elements. 
 Essex, twelve miles from Westport, is a pleasant vil- 
 lage, delightfully located. The large brick edifice 
 near the centre of the village, was the former resi- 
 dence of Gen. Henry H. Ross. (Royce's Hotel.) A few 
 miles north of Essex, almost hidden from observa- 
 tion by overhanging trees and bushes, is the mouth 
 of the Boquet river, a stream of great industrial 
 value ana historical interest. In May 1765, William 
 Gilliland, the pioneer of Essex County, entered the 
 stream with a colony from New York, and erected 
 at the falls two miles above, the first dwelling house 
 built between Crown Point and the Canadian settle- 
 ments. Burgoyne, in June 1777, occupied the river 
 with his vast armament, and at a redoubt he threw 
 up, near the same place, remains of which could 
 very recently be traced, held his famous Indian 
 treaty, with all the tribes which yielded fealty to 
 England. The deep bay on the north of Willsboro 
 Point, a long, low peninsula, was formerly called 
 Pereu Bav, now Willsboro. I^ear its mouth, the 
 good and noble Corlear, the friend of the Indians 
 and the preserver of the French army at Schenec- 
 tady, equally from the storms of winter and the 
 vengeance of a savage foe, was lost with several Iro- 
 quois chiefs, wfiile on a mission of peace and concil- 
 iation to Canada. A part of this bay, and afterwards 
 the lake, from this incident, was called Corlear. The 
 four islands directly in front, representing the car- 
 dinal points of the compass, were known by the 
 Frencli as Isles des quarter vents, and to the 
 
I 
 
 i ; 
 
 ; 
 
 !l 
 
 33 
 
 LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 
 
 English, tlu; Four Brothers. Near these islands, the 
 last tlesperate battle between Arnold and Carlton's 
 fleets occurred. One of Arnold's vessels was cap- 
 tured, one was blown up and four escaped; four 
 others were run ashore on Panton Beach directly 
 opposite, in Vermont, and burnt with their flags 
 still flying. Their charred hulks arc yet visible. 
 
 Nearly opposite, upon one of the highest i)eaks of 
 the Green Mountains, will be observed a very strik- 
 ing object, which seems like the efligy of a reposing 
 lion, carved on the imperishable rock. The French 
 caught the idea, and called the mountain Leon 
 Oouchant; it is now degraded into the name of 
 Gamers Hump. We now api)roach Rock Dunder, 
 which appears almost to interjios? in the steamer's 
 track. It is a dark, naked rock, rising in a perfect 
 cone more than thirty feet above the water. Recent 
 researches seem to identify it with the "Gre^it Rock 
 Reggio," so prominent in the colonial archives, and 
 according to the remote traditions of the Mohawks, 
 a grand landmark in past ages in the boundary line 
 between their domains, and the country of the 
 Algonquins. They long preserved the story, that a 
 gieat chief, ages before the advent of the ])ale faces, 
 named Reggio, was drowned at its base, and from 
 him, the rock and the lake were called Reggio 
 (Watson's Essex County.) Just on the left is the 
 Light House upon Juniper Island, and on the right 
 hand Shelburn Bay, a long and narrow^ sheet of 
 water extending four miles inland. Here is situated 
 the harbor and ship-yard of the Gha'mplain Trans- 
 portation Company, where their steamers are built, 
 and moored in secure winter quarters; and here 
 their condemned hulks are collected, dismantled 
 and left to decay. The history of the numerous gal- 
 lant steamers, rotting in their final harbor, would 
 
LAKE CIIAMPLAIN. 
 
 33 
 
 iifFortl a rich jind most valuable chapter, illustrative 
 of the progress of steamboat architecture. To the 
 skill and judgment of Mr. E. Root, Chief Engi- 
 neer, and L. S Wiiite, Master Median ic, who have 
 been in tiie service of the Company forty yejirs, 
 must be ascribed the credit of placing sucli models 
 as the Adirondack and Vermont upon the waters 
 of tlie lake. The berth of the steamer at Burlington 
 is fourteen miles from Essex, and is well protected 
 by fine wharves, and a long breakwater witli a light 
 house on each end. The elegant, spacious mansion 
 of Col. Le Grand B. Cannon, occupying a conspic- 
 uous eminence immediately south of the city, will 
 command particular notice. Burlington is one of 
 the most beautiful and prosperous cities of Nev/ 
 England, witli a population of fifteen thousand. Its 
 commanding position and great beauty are presen- 
 ted irom the lake with peculiar advantage. As the 
 steamer glides by the Avharves, passing in succession 
 the broad streets, delightful views are presented 
 through their long vistas a mile in length, termi- 
 nated by the eminence crowned by the University 
 buildings on its summit. Most of the streets are 
 shaded by stately trees and, lined by many elegant 
 edifices, embowered Avith trees and shrubbery. We 
 shall again visit Burlington. In the transit of ten 
 miles between Burlington and Port Kent, the lover 
 of nature Avill contemplate her works revealed in 
 exquisite loveliness, and in the wildest sublimity. 
 The lake, studded with headlands and Isle, expands 
 on every side in the richest panorama. On one, 
 the eye traces the outline of the Green Mountains, 
 half the length of Vermont, and on the other, 
 spread the Adirondacks, thrown into chaotic groups, 
 with some of their highest summits lifted into the 
 distant horizon. Contemplating the scene, and re- 
 
li 
 
 34 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 1 ! 
 
 
 collecting that the lake is only ninety-one feet above 
 tide water, the mind reverts to the hypothesis, con- 
 firmed by so much silent testimony, that the ocean 
 once surged through this valley, and that these 
 lofty peaks wliere then islands projecting above its 
 waves. 
 
 Schuyler's Island, (Capon, F.) which, at an early 
 period was occupied as an encampment by Schuyler, 
 lies on the left. Point Trembleau, on the mainland, 
 is one of the few poetical names preserved from the 
 Frencli nomenclature. In the distance, its pine 
 crest seems to be floating on the water. Mount 
 Trembleau is a localitv of interest both to the stu- 
 dent of physical geography and the naturalist. It is 
 the last spur of the Alleghanies, and at its base 
 commences one of those great northern plains that 
 extend to tlie Arctic circle. The mountain is hypdr- 
 stene, or granite, but directly where it terminates 
 the stratification of the Pottsdam sandstone starts, 
 and extends over a wide district. 
 
 The view from Port Kent is among the most beau- 
 tiful and extensive upon the lake. The large stone 
 mansion standing upon the elevated ground was the 
 former residence of Elkanuh Watson. The passage 
 of fifteen miles to Plattsburgh is crowded 
 with objects of great liistoric interest. On the pine 
 plain a mile and a half nortli was the site of Am- 
 herst's brief encampment in 1759. The little island 
 almost touching Valcour on the south, is called Gar- 
 den Island, from the tradition that it was occupied 
 by the French and English naval officers for the 
 cultivation of culinary vegetables. At the southern 
 extremity of Valcour, just* in front of a tiny grass 
 plat, lie the remains of the Royal Savage, a large 
 schooner of twelve guns, sunk in Arnold's battle. 
 Many abortive attempts have been made to raise the 
 
 w 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 35 
 
 wreck, which is v 4ble in low water. We can scarce- 
 ly conceive of a more impressive revolutionary relic 
 than it would ]>v.)ve, could this design be accom- 
 plished. Arnold ;id moored his fleet in a small cove 
 in Valcour island, directly opposite Port Jackson, 
 hoping to escape the observation of the British 
 commander. The enemy's fleet did pass Valcour on 
 the eastern >ide, before the position of Arnold was 
 noticed, and thus approached him from the south. 
 On the advance of the British, who were comman- 
 ded l)y Ca}>t. Pringle, although Carlton was on 
 board the flag-ship, Arnold formed his vessels in 
 a line between Valcour and the mainland. A fierce 
 and sanguinary conllict ensued, protracted through 
 the carnage of four liuurs. At night, Pringle drew 
 off the portion of his fleet engaged, and formed a 
 line directly south of the island to prevent the 
 escape of the shattered American vessels. The loss 
 had been severe on both sides. Arnold, hopeless of 
 further resistance, determined to retreat to the pro- 
 tection of Crown Point. The American fleet, silent- 
 ly, covered by tlie darkness of the night, passed 
 around the north end of Valcour, in a single 
 line, each vessel guiding the course of that follow- 
 ing by aligh. at the stern, and had reached Schuyler's 
 island, nine miles up the lake, before the movement 
 was discovered by the enemy. (Palmer's Champlain). 
 The result we liave already noticed. 
 
 Crab Island, 8t Michael of the French, and 
 known for a time as Hospital Island, from the fact, 
 that the wounded of both fleets in 1814, were placed 
 upon it, lies north of Valcour. Between this 
 island and the peninsula of Cumberland Head, is 
 the theatre of MacDonough's victory. A mile sonth 
 of Plattsburgh will be noticed the modern govern- 
 
Jfi, 
 
 
 I 
 
 u 
 
 f] 
 
 Hi 
 
 36 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 iiient barracks. The old forts and cantonment were 
 located between tlie new barracks and the village. 
 
 The trip between Plattsbnrgh and Rouse's 
 Point, present aspects unlike any other section 
 of the lake, but is still peculiarly pleasant and beau- 
 tiful. The steamboat landing is immediately 
 contiguous to the depots of the Montreal and 
 Phittsburgh, and AVhitehall and Plattsburgli Rail- 
 roads. Not stopping at this important and interest- 
 ing village, to which we shall return, we proceed 
 Avith the steamer on her route to Rouse's Point. 
 After passing Cumberland Head, we leave the broad, 
 expansion of water, the rocky cliffs and stern prom- 
 ontories, but instead, as we thread a more confined 
 anil placid channel are delighted with a view of the 
 rich and luxuriant shores of the islands of Vermont 
 and the mainland of New York, with the scenery 
 of the remote mountains on either side softened by 
 distance. Cumberland Head, (Cap Scrononton, of 
 the French, )three miles from Plattsburgli, has been 
 a i)rominent landmark of the lake, and an interest- 
 ing point in its annals. On the east stretches 
 Grand Isle, the largest island in the lake, and one 
 of the mc»st fertile and lovely places in W^'mont. 
 Twelve miles beyond Cumberland Head, is Isle la 
 Motte ; it was named from La Mothe, a French 
 officer, who built a fort in 1665, on the north end 
 of the island, which he named Fort St. Ann. It 
 was subsequently called Fort La Mothe. This island 
 and Point A" Fer on the western shore, a little 
 north, were occupied, and important military posi- 
 tions, both in the Colonial and Revolutionary war. 
 The Little and Big Chazy rivers enter the lake a 
 short distance south of Point Au Fer. Tradition 
 states that this name was derived from a distin- 
 guished Fi*ench officer De Chasy who was killed in 
 
 Ij 
 
 h 
 s| 
 I 
 
 tl 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 37 
 
 the vicinity in 1G65. (Palmer's Cliamplain.) A brick 
 house, Mr. Pahner writes, was erected on this point 
 previous to the revolution, and he infers from 
 Kalm that dwellings existed here in 1748. The 
 house was fortified by the Americans on their inva- 
 sion of Canada, and occupied by Burgoyne in 1777. 
 It was maintained as a formidable military post by 
 the British until after the treaty of peace. The pro- 
 jection from the Vermont shore, nearly east of the 
 north extremity of Isle La Motte, is Alburgh Ton- 
 gue, distinguished by tlio French as Pointe Algon- 
 guin. The entj'ance to the beautiful Missisquoi 
 Bay will be observed east of this point. Eight miles 
 beyond Isle La Motte, on the eastern shore, is situ- 
 ated Wind Mill Point. The French erected at this 
 place a large stone mill in 1731. This fact origina- 
 ted its name. Directly opposite, is the village of 
 Rouse's Point, and a mile beyond are the railroad 
 depots and steamboat landing. 
 
 We will now return to Whitehall, and pursue 
 another jiopular route of travel to Plattsburgh. 
 This is cbietly by way of the Rutland and Burling- 
 ton Railroad. 
 
 The Cliamplain Canal enters the lake at White- 
 hall by three locks. AVhitehall transacts a heavy 
 business in lumber. A valuable mineral spring, the 
 Adirondack, is the only object worthy of particular 
 attention. (Hall's Hotel ; Vaughan House.) The 
 road running to Rutland connects at this depot, 
 with the trains to and from Saratoga. The cars 
 pass through the villages of Fair Haven, six miles, 
 Ilydeville, two miles, Castleton, three miles, where 
 the Rutland and Washington railroad connects ; 
 three miles from the village is Lake Bomerseen, a 
 pleasant lesort for fishing and recreation, where 
 is a small hotel. Near Castleton is the only white 
 
 i1 
 
38 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 ! t 
 
 ' 
 
 soap stone pencil manufactory in the country : 
 West Rutland, seven miles ; to Rutland, three. The 
 country is eminently beautiful, and the prospect is 
 constantly unfolding fresh views of the Green 
 Mountains. The traveller will notice the large quar- 
 ries of the finest slate, and he has now entered upon 
 the vast marble district that occupies a large por- 
 tion of central Vermont, and is scarcely second to 
 any industry of the state in the business and wealth 
 it yields. Rutland.is a pleasant and prosperous town, 
 with a population of about ten thousand. A large 
 brick depot stands in the lower part of the village, 
 from whicli radiate railroads running in every direc- 
 tion. That whicli we have traced connects with 
 Troy, Albany, Saratoga and the west, and tlie West- 
 ern Vermont, — the Harlem extension, — at the south. 
 At Bellows Falls the Rutland and Burlington road 
 forms junctions with different lines, leading to Xew 
 York by the Connecticut valley, to Boston, and vari- 
 ous sections of Xew Hampshire. Our province is to 
 pursue that which tends to Burlington, which, 
 under a new arrangement, is now known as the 
 Central and V. & C, Rutland Division. 
 
 Rutland stands in the verge of the Green Mount- 
 ains. The highest peaks in the vicinity are Shrews- 
 bury, Pico and Killington. A pleasant drive of 
 seven miles, affords a charming excursion to the lat- 
 ter, which is the third highest summit in the state. 
 Otter Creek, in Rutland, furnishes an extensive 
 water power. Sutherland Falls, seven miles from 
 the village, on this stream, is a line cascade, with 
 vast hydraulic capacity. At some seasons it is visi- 
 ble from the cars. Clarendon, four miles south, will 
 claim a visit by its medicinal springs and remark- 
 able • cave. The " Middletown Healing Springs," 
 reached by an interesting road, should not be neg- 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 39 
 
 lected. The marble quarries and mills in the vicin- 
 ity of Rutland will repay a protracted examination. 
 Rutland, until recently, was the centre of a power- 
 ful railroad influence, anil extensive work-shops were 
 located here. It is the residence of Governor Page, 
 the former energetic President of the R. and B. 
 Company, Among the hotels, are the Bates, a new 
 and superior house; the Bard well and Central. Curi- 
 osity and sometimes a more reverent sentiment 
 often inclines the sojourner to visit the cemeteries, 
 to trace out the graves of a past generation. To 
 aid such researches, we shall incidentally indicate 
 the graves of a few of the eminent dead. In Rutland 
 none are more so, than Charles K. -Williams and 
 Robert Pierpont. 
 
 Pittsford, seven miles, Brandon, eight miles, is 
 distinguished for its manufactories. Here may be 
 explored two singular caves, and a mysterious 
 *' Frozen Well." Stag s run from the Brandon 
 House, a commodious hotel, to Lake Dunmore, 
 nine miles. This l)eautiful and picturesque sheet of 
 water reposes almost within the embrace of the 
 mountains. It affords fine sport, and on its banks 
 are a good hotel, iind cottages for the reception of 
 guests. Lana Cascade, a wild fall, is formed by a 
 little stream that empties into the lake. At Whi- 
 ting, five miles, will be the junction of the Addison 
 Railroad, which is designed to create a connection 
 by a ferry bridge, with the Whitehall and Platts- 
 . burgh Railroad at Ticonderoga. Soon after leaving 
 this station, the Adiroudacks appear on the western 
 horizon. Salisbury, five miles, is the next station, 
 and six miles further we reach Middlebury, lying 
 on both sides of Otter Creek, and a town of con- 
 siderable manufacturing importance. 
 
 It is the seat of Middlebury College, a literary in- 
 
40 
 
 LAKE CIIAMPLAIX. 
 
 ; 
 
 ! i 
 
 stitution of high reputation. The village is plea- 
 santly situated, and commands, as does the whole 
 line of the road, a fine prospect of the mountains, 
 and of a heautiful country. Stages regularly run 
 to Lake Dunmore, eight miles, during summer 
 travel. (Addison House.) Among the eminent men, 
 whose graves are at this place, the intelligent tra- 
 veller will at once recall the Chipmans ; Prof. James 
 Meechem, and Senator Samuel S. Phelps, one of 
 the brightest intellects that ever adorned Vermont. 
 A few miles from Middlebury, the road passes over 
 a deep gorge, at New Haven river, where some 
 years ago, a little hamlet was swept away by a sud- 
 den and teu'ible freshet. Vergennes, (twelve 
 miles) was incorporated iu 1788, with a city char- 
 ter, and named after the eminent French minister. 
 It stands about half a mile from the depot, at the 
 head of the ship navigation on Otter Creek. It pos- 
 sesses a water power of unusual magnitude and 
 value, but which is but partially occupied by some 
 important works. At its ship yard the Ueet of Mac- 
 Donough, atPlattsburgh, was built, during the war 
 of 1812, from timber, which a few months before 
 was standing in the forest. Tliere is here an ex- 
 tensive United States Arsenal. Otter Creek, leap- 
 ing down a sheer rock of nearly forty feet, form a 
 beautiful cascade. (Hotels, — Tiie Stevens House 
 and Frankliu House.) The Elgin S[)ring3 are sit- 
 
 uated three miles from Vergennes. 
 
 Her*.^ is a good 
 
 boarding House, from wiiicli daily stages run to the, 
 depot. Among the graves at Vergennes are those 
 of the Captains Sherman, father and son, who ini- 
 tiated the admirable steamboat system on Lake 
 Chami)lain. 
 
 The remaining stations ])efore reaching Burling- 
 ton, are Ferrisburgli, two and aiialf miles; Noith 
 
 F 
 
 oi 
 
 all 
 
 ai 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 41 
 
 Ferrisburgh, three and a half miles ; Charlotte, five 
 miles and Shelbiirn live miles. In the construction 
 of the railroad, the bones of a fossil whale in remark- 
 able jn'eservation, where exhumed at Charlotte, and 
 are now exhibited in the scientific rooms at Mont- 
 pel ier. 
 
 This road terminates at the spacions depot in 
 Burlington, but passengers, who do not wish to 
 stop at this beautiful city may immediately proceed 
 by the Vermont Central, or embark on one of the 
 lake steamers. The Cakes Ames runs in connec- 
 tion between the Kutland and Bnrlington, and the 
 Montreal and Plattsburgh, and the Whitehall and 
 Plattsburgh railroads, both of which have their 
 depots at the steamboat landing in Plattsburgh. 
 The steamer midves fonr regular daily trips in each 
 direction ; one by the way of Port Kent, and the 
 other direct, a distance of twenty-four miles, be- 
 tween Plattsburgh and Burlin<jton. This is a 
 novel and liighly agreeable trip. The boat glides 
 along Lone Rock, or Sharpshins Point, where the 
 noble edifice, erected for a literary institntion, by 
 the late l^ishop Ho[)kins, will be noticed ; by Apple 
 Tree and ColchesterPoints,and in siglit of the mouth 
 of the Winooski, and soon that of Lamoille river, 
 two valuable streams which enter the lake in Mal- 
 lett's Bay, a deep indentation on the east, and 
 famous as a fishing ground ; througli a narrow pas- 
 sage between two reefs, over which in a calm the 
 water ripjiles almost beneath jier gunwale, but in a 
 storm bursts upon tliem in terrific surges. The 
 government is now erecting a most necessary 
 Light House at this i)lace. Tlie boat continues to 
 run parallel to the Vermont shore and the beauti- 
 ful islands that skirt it. She passes Providence Is- 
 land, the first north of Carlton's Prize, on which 
 
42 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 |>M' 
 
 the passengers landed in 1819, in small boats from 
 the wreck of the burning Phoenix. On the east, a 
 dark, naked, solitary rock may be seen, standing 
 above the water. The tradition of the lake, states, 
 that the British fleet in pursuit of Arnold, after 
 the battle of Valcour, mistaking this rock as it 
 loomed up in the obscurity of an autumnal fog, for 
 a vessel, opened fire upon it, and from that day, the 
 sailors have called it " Carlton's Prize." A little 
 cove will appear near the North-eastern extremity 
 of Valcour Island, interesting to the student of his- 
 tory from the fact, that three of Amherst's fleet, in 
 1759, overtook some French vessels and capturing 
 them, destroyed the last remnant of the domination 
 of France upon the lake. Traversing Cumberland 
 Bay, the steamer will pass over the position occu- 
 pied by the hostile fleets in the battle of September, 
 1814. We omitted to state, that the harbor of 
 Plattsburgh is protected by an ample Breakwater, 
 bearing a bright light at each end. 
 
 The novel and peculiar construction of the 
 Oakes Ames requires a brief notice. Slie is remark- 
 able for her great strength, and a speed scarcely 
 never-impeded by any stress of weather, that enables 
 her to make the distance (about twenty-four miles) 
 between Burlington and Plattsburgh, in a run of 
 one hour. She is two hundred and fifty feet long, 
 has a beam of fifty one feet, and hold eleven feet ; 
 and has two engines of five hundred horse power 
 each. Her peculiarity consists in being construct- 
 ed and adapted by her arrangements to form a pro- 
 longation of the railroads, or makes her rather, a 
 vast floating railroad bridge. A regular track runs 
 along her lower deck,and an engine on shore by using 
 the "self adjusting railroad bridge," places a train of 
 six loaded cars, with the utmost facility and in an 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 43 
 
 incredibly short time, upon the train-way on the 
 boat, and the bulwarks at her bows, which have been 
 temporarily removed, being replaced, she transports 
 them, with almost railroad speed to the opposite con- 
 necting depot, where, by the same machanism, they 
 are taken from the boat, placed upon the railroad, 
 and on their course, with the delay of only a few 
 moments. This bridge adjusts itself to any eleva- 
 tion of the boat, and forms a perfect connection 
 between the track on shore and the way upon the 
 boat. This, wholly original and most important gift 
 to labor, by skill and practical science, was invent- 
 ed and patented by Capt. N. B. Proctor, formerly 
 commander of the Oakes Ames, and will excite the 
 closest examination. The circumstances connected" 
 with this steamer probably have no parallel. Her 
 peculiar and unique model was designed by Captain 
 Proctor ; to him was confided the selection and pre- 
 paration of all the timber in her construction; 
 he built her at his private ship yard, and until the 
 present season, ran her with great success. The 
 public are mainly indebted for the inauguration of 
 this great progress in railroad and steamboat trans- 
 portation to the eiiterprize and influence of Gov. 
 Page, of llutland, Lieut. Governor Underwood, of 
 Burlington, and Mr. Ames and Mr Peter Butler, of 
 Boston. 
 
 The Oakes Ames is now commanded by Capt. B. 
 J. Holt, an able and reliable officer. In no depart- 
 ment of the steamboat service, whether on the 
 ocean or upon the lakes, does a higher responsibility 
 exist, than is involved in the duties that rest upon 
 the commander of one of the Champlain steamers,or 
 where sounder judgment and skill are required. The 
 vessels are large, often laded with immense freight, 
 and great numbers of passengers; they run day and 
 
 i- 
 
 I 
 
44 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 II ■ 
 
 \ I 
 
 M 
 
 
 night, throiigli a very complicated and difficult 
 navigation ; many sections of the lake are charac- 
 terized by shallows, rocks and reefs, and with a con- 
 figuration that compels the steamer to run almost 
 in contact with the land. The presence of abrupt 
 headlands, and the vicinity of lofty ranges of moun- 
 tains, that pre-eminently control the atmospheric 
 current, subject the lake to sudden and severe 
 squalls and heavy gales, which often produce rough 
 and what is known to the sailors as chopping seas, 
 without the refuse of sea-room. The fact which we 
 have already mentioned, that a steamboat naviga- 
 tion extending over sixty years, under such circum- 
 stances, has experienced but a single disaster, de- 
 monstrates the skill and prudence of the officers and 
 the excellence of the vessels. 
 
 A rigid and exact system of discijiline prevails on 
 these steamers. It was instituted at an early period 
 by the Captains Sherman, and has reached its exist- 
 ing degree of perfectness under the present able 
 administration of the Ohamplain Transportation 
 Company. Upon the boats of this Company each 
 crew is formed into a regular fire company, and 
 once at least, on each trip, and once a week while 
 lying in port, are strictly and regularly instructed 
 in their duties. An uniform signal calls each indi- 
 vidual to his designated station, whether at the 
 boats, the pumps, or other service. This system is 
 enjoined by strict printed orders. The vessels are 
 supplied with hose, buckets and other usual appen- 
 dages to Fire Companies, and seem amply guarded 
 from the perils of fire. 
 
 We are permitted to copy the opinion of the 
 United States Supervising Inspector of the North- 
 ern District of New York, iu reference to the man- 
 agement ot these boats. After passing high enco- 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 45 
 
 miums upon their system and discipline, he adds : 
 " In a word, the Adirondack, Canada and United 
 States, are Avortliy examples of completeness, and 
 the discipline on board, as well as safety to life and 
 property, are unsurpassed by any other steamers that 
 have come to my notice." " These results" he writes, 
 " are mainly attributable to the superior outfit, the 
 excellent discipline of officers and crews, and the 
 general good management which cliaracterizes the 
 steamers of tluit line." 
 
 That they may easily be recognized, the officers 
 and crews of these steamers wear a regulation uni- 
 form. 
 
 In a judicious policy, the government has employ- 
 ed an able corps of Engineers, under the Supervision 
 of Gen. Cutts, in making a complete survey of the 
 lake by triangulation. The pilots on its water, 
 possess no charts, and are governed wholly by their 
 own experience and the information they collect. 
 It is a singular circumstance that the British 
 authorities, more than a century ago, possessed 
 minute and exact charts of the lake, derived from 
 their own, and French surveys, whicli Avere pub- 
 lished, but appear never to have been reproduced 
 in this country. Elkanah Watson brought from 
 London one of these maps, which contained this 
 chart, in the year 1784. 
 
 I 
 
46 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 PLATTSBURGH. 
 
 ,K.i 
 
 I 
 
 This village is pleasantly situated on both banks 
 of the Sarauac river, at the foot of Cumberland Bav. 
 It derived its name from Zephaniah Piatt, the origi- 
 nal proprietor, subsequent to the revolution. It 
 was rendered memorable during the war of 1812, by 
 the brilliant naval and military victories, of which 
 it was the theatre. In 1813, Col. Murray, of the 
 British army, made a predatory incursion, and occu- 
 pied for a brief period the village, burning and car- 
 rying off a large amount of public and private pro- 
 perty, here and in the vicinity. In the ensuing 
 summer. Gen. Izard was ordered to the Niagara 
 frontier with all the effective army, leaving Gen. 
 Macomb with a small fragmentary force to defend 
 the important port. It mainly consisted of three 
 earth works: Ft. Moreau, the largest, in the centre ; 
 Ft. Brown, on the bank of the river, and Ft. Scott, 
 on the margin of the lake. The ruins of these works 
 still exist, and Avill be visited with deep interest by 
 the tourist. The fleet of MacDonough was moored 
 in the bay, stretching in a line from Crab Island to 
 the Peninsula of Cumberland Head. 
 
 On the 5th of September, Sir George Provost, the 
 Governor General of Canada, reached the Brick 
 Tavern, eight miles from Plattsburgh on the Chazy 
 road, with an army of fourteen thousand men, 
 formed by some of the choicest regiments in the 
 British service. At this point, one column diverged 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 47 
 
 in order to upproach Plattsburgh by the Beekman- 
 town road, while the main body was to advance upon 
 the road it occupied, and along the beach of the lake. 
 Major, afterwards the distinguished General Wool, 
 was dispatched with two hundred regulars, to sus- 
 tain the militia riflemen, who were hovering along 
 the British line of march. He met and interchang- 
 ed shots with the British advance in Beekmantown, 
 but fell back to Culver's Hill, four and a half miles 
 from Plattsburgh, where a brief, but gallant action 
 occurred, in which Lt.-Col. AVillington and Ensign 
 Chapman of the third Buffs, were killed. Wool fell 
 back to Halsey's Corners, a mile and a half from 
 Plattsburgh, where the road turns in both 
 directions at right angles. In this commanding 
 position Capt. Leonard placed a battery of two 
 guns, masked by Wool, and a small party of Mili- 
 tia. Tliree terrible discharges were pcuired into 
 the British column by this battery, making long 
 lanes through its ranks, marked by a bloody track. 
 Here Lt. Kingsbury, of the Buffs, was mortally 
 wounded, and died in the house of Mr. Isaac C. 
 Piatt, on the elevated ground. The gallant veter- 
 ans did not falter a moment ; the trumpet sounded 
 the charge, and throwing off their knapsacks to the 
 right and left of the road, they rushed impetuously 
 down the slope to assail the American position. Leo- 
 nard hastily retreated, and took a position at the east 
 end of the lower bridge, to protect the retreat of the 
 detachments. In the meanwhile, the other column 
 had advanced more slowly, impeded by obstacles form- 
 ed in the road, the destruction of the Dead Creek 
 bridge by Colonel Appling and Major Sproul, 
 commanding the American detachments, and 
 the attack by several galleys of MacDonough's 
 fleet, as the column was crossing the beach at the 
 
 
 ii 
 
 i ^ 
 
48 
 
 LAKE CIIAMPLAJX. 
 
 1 1 
 
 if; ( I 
 
 foot of the bay. The planks wore removed by the 
 Americans from ))oth bridges in the vilhige, and tlie 
 material used for the construction of batteries. 
 The British made several attempts to cross the river 
 at these points, each of which were gallantly re- 
 pulsed. The losses of both armies were severe in 
 the engagements of this day, amounting to forty- 
 five Americans and more than three hundred Brit- 
 ish, killed and wounded. The resistance bv the 
 Americans was very essentially aided by a com- 
 pany of volunteers commanded by Capt. Aiken, of 
 Essex County, and composed of youths, whose age 
 exempted them from military duty. They had dis- 
 tinguished themselves on the Beekmantown road, 
 and now, occupying a stone mill near the lower 
 bridge, assailed the enemy by an active and effective 
 fire. In 182G, Congress, to manifest its appreciation 
 of their valor and patriotism, presented to each 
 member of this company an elegant rifle. 
 
 The British commander was engaged, up to the 
 loth, in erecting a line of batteries and redoubts, 
 which extended from the mouth of the Saranac in 
 various commanding positions, to a point above the 
 burial ground. The Americans were equally active 
 in strengthening their different works. On the 7th, 
 Lt. Runk was mortally wounded near the first cor- 
 ner west of Fouquet's Hotel. Skirmishes were con- 
 stantly in progress, and a detachment which at- 
 tempted to ford the river five miles above, was 
 , repulsed with loss by Capt. Vaughan of the militia. 
 The night of the 9th was dark and tempestuous, 
 and Major McGlassin of the 15th Infantry, avail- 
 ing himself of the favorable circumstances, with a 
 party of fifty men, from Ft. Brown, forded the i-iver 
 and assailed a detachment of three hundred British 
 troops, lying on the bluff opposite, in front and rear 
 
 i 
 
LAKE OHAMPLAIN. 
 
 40 
 
 with tremendous sliouts. The British abandoned 
 the battery, in wild precipitation, and McGhissin, 
 after spiking their guns, returned to the fort with- 
 out losing a single man. A tradition states that 
 one of the intrepid band was killed by the British 
 sentinel. The 11th September, 1814, was a beau- 
 tiful and tran([uil Sabljath. Early in the morning, 
 discharges of cannon, by the British fleet scaling 
 their guns for action, were heard, and soon the 
 upper si)ars of the vessels were discovered over the 
 tree-tops, moving slowly on the opposite northern 
 side of the pi'nin^ula. The American fleet was an- 
 chored in a line nearly north and south, extending 
 from Crab Lsland to Cumberland Head. The posi- 
 tion was selected by ^lacDonough with eminent 
 skill and judgmi'nt. Both ends of his line were 
 l)rotected by the arrangement, and lying somewhat 
 inside of the Point, he held the advantage of the 
 Avind, Avhen the British fleet, running before a north- 
 erly breeze, changed its course, and attempted, as 
 was necessary, to approach him from a southerly 
 direction. The l^rig Eagle, Capt. Henley, of twenty 
 guns, occupied the head of the line. The flag-ship 
 Saratoga, twenty-six guns, lay next; then in suc- 
 cession the Ticonderogii, Lieut. Cassin, seventeen 
 guns, and the sloop Peble, seven guns. The ten 
 gunboats were stationed in a second line. The 
 British fleet consisted of the Confiance, (Japt. 
 Downie, thirty-seven guns; Linnet, Capt. Pring, 
 sixteen guns; the sloop Chub, Lieut. McGliee, 
 seven gnus, and Finch, Lieut. Hicks, seven guns, 
 and twelve gunboats. The American fleet mounted 
 eighty-six guns, manned by eight hundred and 
 eighty-two men : the British fleet carried ninety-five 
 guns, with an aggregate crew of more than one 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
50 
 
 LxVKE CIIAMPLAIN. 
 
 iil' 
 
 »>;> 
 
 I' I 
 
 thousand men. The weight of metal, and calibre 
 of the guns, were equally favorable to the British. 
 Our limited space precludes the attempt at a 
 description of this battle, contested with a heroic 
 courage and sanguinary carnage that have few 
 parallels in the annals of naval conflicts. An ample 
 and graphic account of it will be found in Palmer's 
 Lake Cham})lain. Capt. Downie was killed early 
 in the action ; MacDonough was twice stricken 
 down ; Capt. Alexander, of the British marines, 
 Lieut. Paul, midshipman Gunn and boatswain 
 Jackson were killed. The iVmerican loss embraced 
 Lieut. Gamble, Lieut. Stansbury, who was cut asun- 
 der by a round shot, and knocked from on board 
 the Ticonderoga; midshipman Baldwin, sailing 
 master Carter, and pilot Joseph Barron. The en- 
 gagement continued two hours and a half, when 
 the British ships successively struck their flags. 
 The gunboats, after having surrendered, effected 
 tlieir escape, owing to the fact that not a single 
 mast in either fleet was able to bear canvass, and 
 the American gunljoats were engaged in rescuing 
 tiic crews from the ( as was supposed, ) sinking 
 British vessels. Crowds of anxious si)ectators lined 
 the Vermont shores, and gathered upon the adja- 
 cent hills and-headlands of New York, to witness 
 the novel and fearful spectacle. The battle was 
 ended; but many gloomy and agitated hours elap- 
 sed before the excited masses could receive authentic 
 intelligence of the glorious result. A personal friend 
 of MacDonough informed the writer, that he board- 
 ed the Saratoga immediately after the close of the 
 battle, when the blood was yet unwashed from the 
 decks, and the horrid evidence of the strife were 
 not removed ; that he found MacDorough calmly 
 
 1 
 
 ■I 
 
 'X 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 51 
 
 pacing the main deck Avithout exhibiting any ap- 
 pearance of excitement or exultation. 
 
 The advance of the British fleet was the signal 
 for the opening of the batteries upon the American 
 works, and their assault by three assailing parties. 
 The attacks at the upper and lower bridges were 
 repulsedj but a few companies succeeded in crossing 
 the Saranac near Pike's cantonment, where they 
 were opposed by the militia under Gen. Mooers and 
 Gen. Wight. The militia retreated nearly to Salmon 
 river, four miles south, where, being joined Ijy par- 
 ties of Vermont Volunteers, and Lieut. Sumpter 
 with a field piece, they rallied and drove back the 
 British. One company of the 7Gth regiment was 
 bewildered in the dense pine woods, cut off, and 
 every man either captured or slain, with their com- 
 mander, Ca]/t. Purchase. The capture of the fleet 
 changed the entire aspect of the campaign, and ren- 
 dered the advance of Provost alike useless and im- 
 practicable. Crowds of volunteers and militia from 
 V^ermont and all the northern counties, inflamed 
 by a noble onthusiam, were rushing to the scene iwul 
 Avould soon envelope the British army. The can- 
 nonade was maintained bv the British until nii>ht, 
 when, under its mantle, Provost hurried on tlie 
 retreat with his baggage and artillery, which were 
 hastily followed by the army. Before morniii:;' the 
 rear guard had marched, abandoning a vast ([uan- 
 tity of stores and munitions, and leaving the sick 
 and wounded to be cared for by the humanity of 
 the American General. Wild and extravagant tales 
 long excited the credulous in that region, of immense 
 treasure buried, and gold and silver hidden in wells 
 and other receptacles, by the flying enemy. The 
 common sailors and marines, slain in the action, of 
 both fleets, were buried in one grave on Crab Island. 
 
 I 
 
 ii ' 
 
 I 
 
 if 
 
 itil 
 
52 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 u 
 
 \i 
 
 l\ L 
 
 W^ 
 
 is> 
 
 ii A 
 
 The bodies of the British and American officers, 
 received from their respective sliips, were borne in 
 a solemn procession of barges to the shore, and 
 there met by the citizens and military, bearing the 
 corpses of those slain on the land, were carried to 
 the sepultures and deposited in honored graves, 
 with equal rites. The tcmb of Downie, beneath 
 the dark shadows of the emblematic pines, is the 
 central mound, around which cluster the graves of 
 the heroic dead of kindred nations. Years after- 
 wards, the generous impulses of the people erected, 
 withont distinction of friend and foe, a commemo- 
 rative stone at the head of each grave. The hand 
 of domestic aftection had already placed a marble 
 slab over the remains of Downie. 
 
 The village of Plattsburgh has suffend severely 
 from several destructive fires, but has arisen from 
 each infliction in augmented beauty and renova- 
 ted vigor. This is attested by the massive blocks 
 of new stores, and manufactories; its elegant 
 churches, puljlic buildings and fine private residen- 
 ces. It possesses various manufactories, but the 
 predominant industry is the vast lumbering estab- 
 lishments it enil)raees. The water poAver afforded 
 by the fSaranac, on and contiguous to the village, is 
 very large, and is chiefly occui)ied by lumber-mills. 
 The mills owned or worked by C. F. Norton & Co., 
 contain ten gates, and average in the active season, 
 running day and night, eighteen thousand pieces, 
 or one hundred and eighty thousand feet. An im- 
 mense amount of every description of lumber, fab- 
 ricated by tlie numerous mills along the Saranac, is 
 also shipped at Piattsburgh. The pieces cut at the 
 Plattsburgh mills alone would load daily two canal 
 boats. Tiie logs destined to supply these mills are 
 cut in the wilderness and floated, by a wonderful 
 
 t 
 
 t 
 
 I 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 hz 
 
 i 
 
 combination of energy and skill, through the inte- 
 rior lakes and down the Saranac, a distance between 
 eighty and ninety miles. Those driven through to 
 Plattsburgh mills are estimated to average yearly 
 one hundred thousand standard, and four hundred 
 thousand by count. The number of logs transpor- 
 ted by the Saranac to the different mills above 
 Plattsburgh cannot acurately be ascertained. They 
 probably reach in an average of years, forty thous- 
 and standard, which may be computed at one hun- 
 dred and sixty thousand in numbers. The driving 
 of logs presents a novel and most exciting scene. 
 Plunging over a fall, they are swallowed up for the 
 time in the vortex of waters; they rush along rap- 
 ids, cover the surface of the river in jilaces for miles, 
 but a jam, tlie accumulation of the logs, caused by 
 some obstruction, is the danger most necessary to be 
 avoided. A small army of trained and stalwart 
 men are stationed at various points, at which this 
 catastrophe is liable to hapi)en. Every log must be 
 kept afloat in the current ; the stoppage of one will 
 often arrest the progress of thousands, and when a 
 formidable jam is once formed, it can only be broken 
 up ])y vast labor and expense. The feats of courage, 
 strength and activity of these men is often amazing. 
 Xothing could more gratify a tourist than the 
 op])ortunity of witnessing this operation. 
 
 The Saranjic, above Plattsburgh, presents a con- 
 stant succession of valuable mill privileges, many of 
 which are occupied by large and important sawing 
 establishments. • The processes by which the several 
 proprietors identify aiul select their own logs are 
 curious and interesting. The logs, when cut in the 
 forest, are impressed with the special mark of each 
 owner, rolled promiscuously into the river, and float 
 down in a mass. Booms are constructed at each 
 
 I 
 
54 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN". 
 
 mill, not at right angles with the stream, but length- 
 wise on each side, leaving a narrow ehab;icl for the 
 passage of the logs. Eacli owner, as the logs rush 
 through this channel, seizes, by various devices, his 
 own proi)erty, and thrusts it within his boom. 
 
 Various other objects besides those we have indi- 
 cated, in Plattsburgh, worthy of attention, will 
 amuse and interest the visitor. Among tbese we 
 may enumerate a call at tlie Catholic Convent and 
 Nunnery, a visit whicli the traveller of taste and 
 refinement will desire to again and again repeat; to 
 the Greenhouse and Vineyard of tlie Messrs. Bailey, 
 and a stroll to the retired Cemetery on the banks 
 of the river. The stranger will instinctively direct 
 his stei)s to the military graves: wandering from 
 these, he will find the last resting place of men who 
 where not only eminent in the section, but distin- 
 guished in the state and nation. Among these he 
 may read the names upon tlie monumental marbles 
 ofZepheniah Piatt, Jonas Piatt, Benjamin Mooers, 
 John Palmer, William Swetland and Lemuel Stet- 
 son. If the wanderer loves to do homage to early 
 genius, and deplores an untimely death, he will be 
 attracted by the patlios that lingers about the hum- 
 ble grave of Lucretia M. Davidson. Rowing or 
 sailing, in boats always ready for use, and fishing if 
 desired, will be pleasant recreations. The drives 
 about Plattsburgh are peculiarly agreeable. That 
 on the plank road up the Saranac, besides the op- 
 portunity of witnessing the driving of the logs, is 
 particularly attnictive, by the romantic character 
 of the streams, the grandeur of the great falls, eigh- 
 teen miles from Plattsburgh, and the beauty of the 
 country. A plank road leading to the State Prison 
 (sixteen miles) at Dannemora branches atElsineur, 
 The visitor will be interested by an inspection of 
 
igth- 
 I' the 
 rush 
 , his 
 
 iidi- 
 will 
 we 
 tind 
 and 
 ; to 
 ley, 
 
 nks 
 
 rect 
 
 'om 
 
 liio 
 
 ill- 
 he 
 
 lies 
 
 >rs, 
 
 et- 
 
 rly 
 
 be 
 
 tn- 
 
 or 
 if 
 
 -es 
 
 at 
 
 P- 
 
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 li- 
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 3f 
 
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Lion Mountain. Chazy Lake. 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 55 
 
 the prison and workshops— guides are always fur- 
 nished by the courteous warden or agent, — and 
 by the exploration of the iron ore bed. 
 
 Good accommodations will be afforded by hotels 
 at different villages along the Saranac, and at Dan- 
 nemora; the table of the Clinton House is always 
 supplied with the choice trout from Chazy Lake. 
 Dannemora is situated at an elevation above Lake 
 Champlain of almost seventeen thousand feet; but 
 the ascent from Plattsburgh is scarcely perceptible. 
 The view from this height is eminently grand and 
 beautiful. A wide expanse of Champlain ; the rich 
 intervening country ; tlie silver thread of the Sara- 
 nac ; the long sierra of the Green Mountains, and 
 countless peaks of tlie xVdirondacks are all embraced 
 in the landscape. Dannemora is the direct route 
 to Cliazy Lake, (live miles), a lovely sheet of water, 
 and a favorite resort to the sportsman. It is no 
 where surpassed b}' the quantity and exquisite 
 quality of the fish it yields. In exceptional cases, 
 trout weighing twenty pounds have been taken in 
 its waters. The road to the Lake was built by the 
 State, and is always in good condition. The Meader 
 Hotel, an excellent house, stands directly on the 
 shore of the lake. At the termination of the road, 
 in close proximity to Chazy Lake, stands " Lion 
 Mountain," a prominent land-mark, visible through 
 an extended area, which is much admired for the sin- 
 gularity of its form and position. Bradley's Pond, 
 lying west ( two miles ) is reached by a comfortable 
 road. A pathway extends (six miles) to Chateau- 
 guy Lake. Chazy Lake ( five miles, by one and 
 one half miles in its widest part) is greatly celebra- 
 ted for its gentle and picturesque beauties, and its 
 attraction to the sportsman. The season for troll- 
 ing extends from about the 1st of May to the mid- 
 
 i| 
 
 f 
 
I t 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 El! 
 
 5G 
 
 LAKE CIIAMPLAIN. 
 
 ii 
 
 i 
 
 ly If 
 
 i 
 
 
 die of June; when fly fishing begins and continues 
 through the season. Lion Mountain is about five 
 thousand feet liiah. It received its name from a 
 
 •n' 
 
 ;f,;: 
 
 striking simihtude in form it pre.sents to " the King 
 of beasts." 
 
 Trent Falls, an attractive locality nine miles 
 from Plattsburgh, is reached by a pleasant drive. 
 The tourist will find an exciting occupation in trac- 
 ing and identifying the various scenes of historic 
 interest, we have described with so much minute- 
 ness, for the purpose of aiding his researches. 
 
 The Au Sable Chasm, one of the most wonderful 
 works of Xature in the countrv, niav be visited from 
 Plattsburgh by a drive of about twehe miles, over 
 a road which for several miles runs directly on the 
 margin of the lake, and by fording the Au Sable 
 river, if preferred ; or the Chasm may be reached 
 by steamer to Port Kent, and thence three miles by 
 coaches which always meet the boats. In an excur- 
 sion to the Au Sauble Chasm, the drive might be 
 pleasantly diversified h^n circuit over Ilallock, or 
 by a visit to the mouth of the Au Sable river. 
 These localities we shall describe in another connec- 
 tion. 
 
 A trip from Plattsburgh to Port Henry by 
 the steamers, and return the same day, will afford 
 the tourist an opportunity of seeing the most inter- 
 esting portion of the lake and its scenery. We have 
 space to refer to only one other drive in this con- 
 nection, the circuit of Cumberland Head, by a line 
 road, skirting the lake, of which an extensive view is 
 constantly presented. The road i)asses the farm 
 granetdtoMacDonough by the State of Vermont, the 
 light-house at the point, and the place where Bur- 
 goyne first assembled and organized his army in 1777. 
 
 The trip of the steamer A. Williams, between 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 67 
 
 Plattsburgh and St. Albans, affords to the tourist 
 one of the most delightful excursions on the lake. 
 Leaving Plattsburgh in the morning, she first stops 
 at Gorden's wharf, where passengers land who intend 
 visiting the Iodine Springs, three miles distant on 
 the opposite side of the island. These springs, 
 which are becoming highly celebrated, are beauti- 
 fully situated, overlooking Keeler's Bay, among the 
 finest fishing grounds in the region, and furnish, 
 by the qualities of the water, its quiet seclusion, 
 and the commodiousness of its boarding-houses, a 
 most agreeable resort to those in pursuit of health 
 or pleasure. The proprietor of these springs is Mr. 
 Warren Corbin. 
 
 The steamer has sufficient capacity for the trans- 
 portation of horses and carriages, and stops at vari- 
 ous landings on both islands, Xortli and South 
 Hero. Visitors are thus enabled, with their own 
 conveyances, to enjoy drives through a enltivated and 
 beautiful countr}', and over roads that :,re no where 
 surpassed in their singular excellence. These drives 
 may bo extended by the different ferries to the Isle 
 La Mott. This is a pleasant spot, where the site 
 of tlie old French fort La Motlie mav be traced. On 
 the north end of the island is a light-house. 
 
 In pursuing this route, we will venture to tra^^:!- 
 cribe a notice of it ])V the writer, puljlished manv 
 5 ears ago. '* Suddenly our little steamer headed 
 landward, and for a moment we feared she must be 
 crushed upon the rocks; Ijut presently we enter a 
 narrow passage, whicli had been hidden from our 
 view by a projecting tongue of land. After tliread- 
 ing for a mile or two the intricate channel, Avliieh 
 separates North and South Hero, — beautiful islands 
 that are the garden spots of Vermont, — we deljouch 
 upon an expanse of water, equal almost in expanse 
 
 I., * 
 
 I; i i 
 
lit 
 
 ti : 
 
 68 
 
 LAKE CIIAMPLAIX. 
 
 * -1. 
 
 to the broadest portion of tlie Itike. Here ti scene 
 bursts upon us, in a vision of unsurpassed beauty 
 and splendor, like the enchantments of fairy land. 
 This broad sheet of quiet and secluded water is en- 
 circled in tlie arms of the mainland and the two 
 Ileros. Innumerable islands gem its bosom in 
 every variety of form and aspect : t\iere a dark, 
 froAvning ruck; this glowing in eniuraivl verdure, 
 and that smiling in culture and loveliness. A wide 
 district of rich and luxuriant agricultural territory, 
 embellished bv vi]lac:es and elitterine: with farm 
 houses and villages, spread in a beautiful, undula- 
 ting acclivity from the shore of the lake to the dis- 
 tant range of mountains, which, like a dark and 
 majestic frame-work, surrounds and limits the scen- 
 erv. This is one of the most beautiful, as it is 
 among the most sequestered, regions of A\>rmont ; 
 but is seldom pressed by the foot of the traveller, 
 Avhosc eye rarely glances upon the exquisite beauty 
 of the scene, except as he is borne through it upon 
 the wings of steam.'' The memory of the classic 
 tourist, as he traverses Lake Clnimplain, often re- 
 verts to the archipelago of the ^Egean, but now^iere 
 is the assimilation so strong as in the section we are 
 now contemplating. The terminus of the passage 
 is at Belamaqueen, or St. Albans Bay, tlirec miles 
 from the village of St. Albans ; from whence stages 
 run re2:ularlv, in connection with the boat. The 
 first canal boat that reached New York, through 
 the Champlain Canal, was built and owned at this 
 port. • 
 
 We now return in our staunch little steamer and 
 resume our notices of Plattsburgh. The hotels of 
 Plattsburgh have established high reputations. The 
 Cumberland House and Withevill's hotel are both 
 excellent and convenient houses, spacious in their 
 
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 en- 
 two 
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 la- 
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 Fouquet's Hotel, Plattsburgh, N. Y. 
 
LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 
 
 59 
 
 arrangements, and calculated for the accommoda- 
 tion of a large number of guests. Fouquet's Hotel 
 has been long a prominent institution of its kind, 
 and familiarily known, for more than seventy years 
 to the travelling communitv. This familv, throuuh 
 this long period, have been accomplished hotel keep- 
 ers, l)oth from education and hereditary (qualities. 
 Their American progenitor came to this country 
 with La Fayette, and remaining, opened a public 
 house in Albany. His son, John L. Fouquet, in 
 1798, erected an liotel near the site occupied by the 
 present beautiful edifice. That building, — one of 
 first class for the period, — was burned during the 
 siege of 1814, by hot shot from the fort. lu 1815, 
 a second house was erqcted on the same ground, with 
 an improvement both in style and dimensions. 
 This, by repeated additions, had grown into a large 
 and commodious establishment, but in June, 1864, 
 it also was consumed. With an energy unsubdued 
 by this calamity and with unfaltering enterprise, 
 the Messrs. D. L. Fouquet & Son commenced the 
 erection of the third edifice, and the next year, on 
 the same day in June in which the last had been 
 burned, they opened a new and splendid hotel for 
 the reception of guests. Such an invincible spirit 
 claims a success, which we trust vill be achieved. 
 The new building is an elegant and spacious struc- 
 ture, not less imposing by its dimensions and posi- 
 tion, than attractive by the novelty and beauty of 
 its architecture. It is capable of accomodating one 
 hundred and fifty guests, and with a style and ele- 
 gance that is always satisfactory. The rooms are 
 large and well ventilated, and supplied with every 
 promotive of comfort and enjoyment. The grounds 
 and flower garden, animate with beauty and redo- 
 lent with fragrance, afford a most agreeable retreat. 
 
 ;!!« 
 
 ■: 
 
 1 
 
I 
 
 GO 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 6''- 
 
 ft 
 
 The broad piazzas on two sides of the house, and 
 the ]n*omenade upon the roof, afford a wide and de- 
 lightful view of the lake, the battle ground, the vil- 
 lage, the surrounding country, and the mountains 
 on every side. This house, by its beautiful and 
 spacious grounds, and quiet, furnishes peculiarly 
 safe and pleasant accommodations for the residence 
 of ladies and children, during the summer. 
 
 The large brick stables, standing on the grounds, 
 and erected at a cost of $0,000, will delight the ama- 
 teur in horses l)y their perfect and elaborate arrange- 
 ments. Thev are intended for the accommodation 
 of guests who bring tiieir own horses and carriages, 
 as well as to furnish teams for rides and excursions. 
 A livery is attached to the ho/ise. (See appendix.) 
 Other excellent Livery stables are always prepared 
 to supply any demand, 
 
 The second edifice flourished in the palmy times 
 of travelling,when men journeyed at a rational speed 
 to see and enjoy the country and the incidents of 
 the road. Then the Post Coach occupied two days 
 between Ogdensburgh and Plattsburgh ; but in the 
 romance of the journey was the transit of the Cha- 
 teaugay woods, along the government road a dis- 
 tance of forty miles, through nearly an unbroken 
 wilderness, where the traveller might frequently 
 see deer gazing from the bushes, and occasionally a 
 wolf prowling along the road. In those days, when 
 a delicious, fresh salmon 'was in request, Fouquet 
 had onlv to examine his seine at the foot of the 
 mill-race, or that failing, to select a victim and 
 spear him from a school gamboling beneath the 
 lower bridge. 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 

 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 61 
 
 BURLINGTON 
 
 We will now return to Burlington, and then re- 
 sume tlie thread of our narrative. The natural 
 position of this place is so perfect, that we can 
 scarcely conceive how it could be improved Ijy the 
 handy work of nature. The lake, studded by its 
 innumerable islands and headlands, lies before it 
 like a broad picture ; distant groups of the Adiron- 
 dacks rising to the vision far in the interior beyond ; 
 the Green Mountains stretching along its eastern 
 sky, and the city ascending, by a gentle acclivity, 
 which reveals these objects to every eye, combine 
 to render the panorama complete and entrancing. 
 Burlington is rapidly expanding in business and 
 population. It has a lumber market, the growth of 
 a few years, second in extent to only one or two in 
 the country. It presents a large space of wharAige, 
 extending along its entire front, with an immense 
 iirea of new ground wrested from the lake and filled 
 in at a great expense. The planing mills is said 
 to be probably the most extensive in the world. The 
 various work-shops and mills connected with the 
 lumber yards are worthy inspection, as well as the 
 otlier varied and extensive manufactories in the 
 city. The University of Vermont, to which the 
 Agricultural College has been recently connected, is 
 tlie prominent feature of Burlington. Its buildings 
 occupy an eminence that presents a wide view. 
 
 i.n. 
 
 I 
 
G2 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 \;X 
 
 w 
 
 The altitude of Taliawas, or Mt. Marcy, has been 
 ascertained from its observatory. In 1825, La 
 Fayette laid the corner stone of its central edifice. 
 The University is now prosperous, and has estab- 
 lished a high standing, from the services of a long 
 line of eminent men in its faculty. The public 
 buildings in the city are numerous, and many of 
 them erected in a superior style. Among tlie recent 
 structures are the ]^,Ierchants National Bank and the 
 Insurance Buildings of the Messrs. Wires, the seat 
 of one of the most extensive, best conducted, and 
 reliable Insurance Agencies in the country, will be 
 particularly noticed. 
 
 The Depots c»f the Eutland and Burlington and 
 Central roads are elegant and spacious buildings. 
 A change in the railroads has temporarily suspend- 
 ed the occupation of the former. The large and 
 beautiful ground of Col, Cannon are continually 
 opened to visitors. 
 
 The drives and excursions in th.o vicinity are 
 numerous and pleasant. We may particularize 
 a drive through " Howard's Summit," a visit to the 
 ship-yard at Shelburn harbor, and Proctor's private 
 yard, — a stroll in the green-house and nursery of 
 Mr. A. Taylor, — a ride to Mallett's Bay, that always 
 secures line sport, — and where should be examined 
 the quarry of variegated marble, a rare and beautiful 
 production. Here is a good Hotel. A sojourn in 
 Burlington would want its crowning interest, with- 
 out a pilgrimage being made to the grave and monu- 
 ment of Ethan Allen, in the Green Mount Cemetery. 
 Here, and in the Old Burial Ground in Burlington, 
 are the graves of many distinguished men. We 
 may enumerate among them James Marsh, the 
 eminent Metaphysical writer; Zadock Thomspon, 
 the Historian and Naturalist ; Joseph Torrey, the 
 
\ 
 
 TVlres* Insuranoe SulldlnsT* 
 Burllnficton, ^t. 
 
 ^ 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 G3 
 
 profound Greek scholar, and the distinguished Pre- 
 sident, John Wheeler. 
 
 The magnificent water works of Burlington will 
 attract the attention of the visitor. The " Lake 
 View Cemetery," a beautiful and extensive " City of 
 the Dead,'*' lias been recently arranged and dedicated. 
 It has been located with great taste and judgment, 
 directly upon the shore of the lake, from which it 
 ascends in a graceful slope; The stranger will find 
 this one of the most interesting rides in the vicinity 
 of Burlington. 
 
 The visitor will not omit to inspect the Custom 
 House and Marine Hospital, now used as an Or- 
 phan's home. The hotels at Burlington are excel- 
 lent. The American is an old and highly esteemed 
 first-class establishment, and occupies a part of the 
 former residence of Gov. Van Ness. (See appendix.) 
 The Van Ness is a new house, spacious, elegantly 
 arranged, and superior in all its appointments, and is 
 calculated to afford every comfort and accommoda- 
 tion to the traveller. The Lawrence House is a 
 superior house, and will be especially used as a 
 summer boarding-house. 
 
 Among the excursions from Burlington, which will 
 merit the attention of the tourist, none will be 
 found more pleasant and gratifying than a passage 
 across the lake to Port Kent, and a visit to the Au- 
 sable Chasm and Kceseville. Leaving Burlington 
 by the morning boat, the party will find carriages 
 in attendance at Port Kent, (or they may transport 
 their own by the steamer,) to convey them to both 
 places; and after a day of exciting enjoyment, may 
 return to Burlington by the evening steamer. 
 After viewing the stupendous operations of nature 
 at the Chasm, they may expatiate among the trees 
 in the pleiisures of a pic-nic, or an excellent meal 
 
 
 \\ 
 
 I lii 
 
 I. 
 
 I 
 
64 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN". 
 
 [i 
 
 i 
 
 will be found at the " Chasm House " near by. If 
 a visit to Keeseville is embraced in the programme, 
 they Avill reach there by a ride of only two miles, 
 over a fine road, — calling at the Rolling Mill, one 
 of the most perfectly appointed in the country, view- 
 ing just below it a beautiful fall, and have the en- 
 joyment of the comforts and luxuries of the superior 
 hotels of this village. The varied and peculiar 
 manufactories should claim examination. 
 
 We learn that arrangements have been made by 
 which passengers through Lake Champlain may 
 procure tickets at any principal ticket office, pass- 
 ing them from Plattsburgh to Ausable Chasm and 
 return for $1.50. And also, that parties between 
 Lake Champlain and the White Mountains, may 
 obtain similar tickets at the same places, which 
 will enable them to stop over at Burlington, and 
 with only the detention of a single day, to visit 
 Plattsburgh and the Chasm. A short increase of 
 time, and slight extra charge, will afford an opportu- 
 nity of visiting Keeseville. 
 
 © 
 
 ® 
 
 ® 
 
 ® 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 e5 
 
 
 
 MT. MANSFIELD 
 AND CAMEL'S HUMP. 
 
 ( 
 
 ® 
 
 Eiich of these summits, the two highest in Ver- 
 mont, is a conspicuous object, in view from Bur- 
 lington. They may be reached by pleasant drives 
 from this place ; but the most convenient method 
 is by cars to the different points on the railroad 
 from which they are accessible. Leaving Burling- 
 ton from the splendid Central depot, we pass Wi- 
 nooski Falls, which may be regarded a suburb of the 
 city. The tourist seeking Mt. Mansfield, may stop 
 at Essex Junction, 8 miles, where coaches will be 
 found to convey him to ITndeihill, from whence he 
 can easily reach the mountain ; or he may continue 
 twenty-two miles, to Waterbury. This village is 
 agreeable as a summer residence, and in convenient 
 distance to Mt. Mansfield, Camel's Hump, Bolton 
 Falls and other points of interest,(Waterburynouse.) 
 Stages leave this station for Stowe (ten miles) on 
 the arrival of the trains. This village is a favorite 
 summer retreat. It is eight miles from the top of 
 Mfc. Mansfield, which is reached by stages, over a 
 good and secure carriage road. Interesting excur- 
 sions are secured by drives to Bolton Falls, Moss Glen 
 Falls, Smugglers' Xotch, and other places. (Mt, 
 Mansfield House, see appendix.) The Smuggler's 
 Notch is associated with many stirring traditions 
 
 ti 
 
66 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 of a lawless period, to which its lofty precipices and 
 wild scenery eminently conform. Beyond this gorge, 
 in a dense, gloomy forest, the explorer will discover 
 the " Mammoth Spring," bursting out of the side of 
 Sterling Mountain, in a large stream. West of the 
 Notch, on the northern spur of Mansfield, lies the 
 " Lake of the Clouds," one of the highest bodies of 
 water in New England. The Glen Moss Falls is 
 one of the wildest and most beautiful scenes in this • 
 region of romance and beauty. 
 
 Mansfield Mountain derived its name from the 
 Town of Mansfield, in which it was situated. 
 The town has been discontinued. The moun- 
 tain exhibits three summits, designated the 
 Chin, the Nose, and the Forehead, from a fan- 
 cied resemblance to the human profile. The ' 
 Chin, the highest of these peaks, is four thousand 
 three hundred and forty-eight feet high. Altliough 
 more than a thousand feet less than Tahawas in 
 height, Mansfield, from the peculiarity of its posi- 
 tion, commands a far more extended landscape. 
 The vision embj'aces the Champlain Valley, and the 
 lake, with the far-distant Adirondacks in the West. 
 The Montreal Mountain is visible with the naked 
 eye, and it is stated that steamers are discerned,with 
 the aid of a glass, upon the St. Lawrence. The 
 clearly defined outline of the White Mountains, 
 sixty miles away, may be seen along the eastern sky, 
 with all the intervening mountains, rivers and 
 valleys. All this combination of diversified scenery 
 produces an effect indescribably impressive and 
 magnificent. The mountain, in its winding ascent, 
 presents scenes of infinite beauty and grandeur. 
 The access to the summit has been rendered con- 
 venient by the construction of a good road, at a 
 heavy expense. Passengers are conducted in a 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 67 
 
 coach and six from the Mansfield House to the 
 Summit House. A temporary stop will be made at 
 the Half- Way House, where a large spring, bursting 
 from the side of the mountain, in an impetuous vol- 
 ume, may be enjoyed. From this point to the Summit 
 House is two miles. Near the hotel, you will catch, 
 farther to the west, the first view of the " Old Man 
 of the Mountain," whose lineaments are quite well 
 defined. The Summit House is spacious and con- 
 venient and capable of holding one hundred guests. 
 It is situated near the Nose. This hotel and the 
 road have been built Ijy the proprietors of Mans- 
 field House. (See appendix.) Both are well kept 
 hostelries, and together are adapted to the accom- 
 modation of five hundred visitors. The Geological 
 developments at the top of Mount Mansfield, possess 
 the highest interest. 
 
 'i i 
 
 i 
 
 Camel's Hump. — The change, from the rich po- 
 etical name of Leon Couchant, applied by the 
 French nomenclature to this peak, to its present 
 unfortunate appellation, Ave have mentioned. 
 Camel's Hump is four thousand eighty-three feet 
 high, and second only among the Green Mountains 
 in altitude to Mount Mansfield. It stands out in 
 bold relief, and with an imposing attitude, from 
 the range. Ridley Station, — (North Duxbury, P. 
 0.,) — twenty-five miles from Burlington, is three 
 from the mountain, and the most convenient point of 
 access. Carriages convey passengers from this sta- 
 tion three miles up the mountain, and from that 
 point the ascent is made on foot or upon horses. 
 " Near the summit is a building, where shelter and 
 refreshments may be had." The peak is formed of 
 naked rocks, hurled together in chaotic masses. 
 From this lo^ty observatory the eye ranges over the 
 
 1^ 
 
I. 3 
 
 ■:4 
 
 
 68 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 wide view, unobstructed by forests or mountain 
 tops. The prospect from Camel's Hump is very 
 similar and scarcely secondary to that unfolded to 
 the observer at Mansfield Mountain. 
 
 • •• 
 
 Vermont and Canada Railroad. 
 
 We now take a new departure from the depot at 
 Burlington. The train passes, soon after leaving, 
 througli a deep cut in the sand bluff, eighty-five 
 feet deep and about twenty-five rods in length. 
 This opening has revealed to the geologist a most 
 attractive field for examination. After passing this 
 cut, we enter a magnificent and tasteful tunnel, 
 three hundred and fifty feet long. At the entrance 
 it is nineteen feet high, and in some parts sixteen ft. 
 wide. It is built with brick, faced at the entrance 
 by arches of black limestone. In excavating for 
 this tunnel a live toad was discovered in "a small 
 smootli cavity " in the sand, eighty feet from the 
 surface. AVhen found it was in a torpid state, but 
 soon recovered animation, and lived six months. 
 Its skin is preserved. (Vermont Geology.) Winoos- 
 ki village (two miles) is a thriving manufacturing 
 place, on the vast power at the Winooski Falls. 
 The tourist will enjoy, as the train slowly crosses the 
 high bridges over this stream, — now rushing through 
 deep gorges ; now turbulently dashing down rugged 
 precipices, and again quietly winding along lovely 
 valley, — some of the most beautiful scenery in Ver- 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 60 
 
 mont. The Winooski, in 1808, was the scene of an 
 event that aroused the deepest sensation. A party 
 of Custom house officers attempted to seize a smug- 
 gling beat called the Black Snake, lying in the 
 river. The smugglers resisted, and killed two of the 
 officers. Subsequently one of the crew was convict- 
 ed of the murder, and was executed at Burlington. 
 This whole region, at that time, was filled with vio- 
 lence and outrage. Armed bands of smugglers 
 openly traversed the country, trampling on the laws 
 and putting the power of the government at defi- 
 ance. We pass rapidly over a fine track through Col- 
 chester,Milton and Georgia, in the midst, generally, 
 of a highly cultivated and interesting country* 
 In Milton a striking curiosity, the Great Falls on 
 the Lamoille river, should be visited. The descent 
 of the water is one hundred and fifty feet, in fifty 
 rods. Near the Georgia station, the traveller will 
 notice a remarkable bridge over the Lamoille, form- 
 ed by three spans of one hundred and fifty feet 
 each, — erected at an expense of $70,000. The entire 
 trip to St. Albans (13 miles) is singularly agreeable 
 and attractive. 
 
 1 
 
 .; { 
 
 ST. ALBANS 
 
 ji ' 
 
 Is among the most delightful villages, and attrac- 
 tive resorts in Vermont, and is equally conspicuous 
 for the high toned refinement and* culture of its 
 people. The village is situated about three miles 
 from the lake, and upon a plain four hundred feet 
 above it. To an observer looking forth towards 
 the west from Aldis Hill, or the Belleveu Moun- 
 
70 
 
 LAKE CHA3IPLAIN. 
 
 •K 
 
 i 
 
 :m 
 
 \i 
 
 ii 
 
 tain, a landscape is revealed that the pencil of no 
 artist can adequately portray. Our unwaveriig ex- 
 pression of admiration in describing the scenery of 
 Champlain may lead readers, whose eyes have not 
 rested on the beautiful visions, that we are betrayed 
 into the rhapsodies of an enthusiast. We may only 
 reply that while the surveys that meet the eye of the 
 tourist are ever varying and fresh, they will main- 
 tain one uniformity, — their common characteristics 
 of grandeur and beauty. © 
 
 The public edifices that adorn St. Albans are of 
 a high order; and the private dwellings are often 
 elegant. Here are collected the business offices of 
 numerous railroads, which are guided mainly by the 
 intelligence and energy of residents of St. Albans. 
 This is the residence of Hon. J. Gregory Smith, 
 who is at the head of a vast railroad local combina- 
 tion, and President of the JNorthern Pacific R. 11. It 
 lias a fine station house and freight depot, on a 
 magnificent scale ; but a stranger visiting the bust- 
 ling spot on a market day would deem it scarcely 
 sufficient for the business which concentrates there. 
 He will be astonished at the enormous amount of 
 dairy products exported from week to week ; and 
 Vthen he reflects that tiiis is but a single depart- 
 ment, stimulated by the agriculture of the region, 
 may form some conception of its vast productions, — 
 of the macjnitude of the busines:j of which these roads 
 are the channel. The cemetery of St. Albans is 
 especially hallowed by the ashes of the venerated 
 dead, among whom we may mention, Asa Aldis, 
 AVorthington Smith, Benjamin Swift, John Smith, 
 and the sweet poetess, Charlotte Emily Fay. 
 
 Main street, a long and spacious avenue, orna- 
 mented by splendid stores, the park and vorkshops, 
 are all attractive objects. The elegant mansion of 
 
 $1 
 
 • 
 
 : 
 
I 
 
 LAKE C'HAMPLAIX. 
 
 71 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 Gov. Smith, occupying an eminence east of the vil- 
 lage, is a conspicuous feature in the beauty of the 
 place. St. Albans has been unpleasantly notorious, 
 for two public events ; a raid from Canada upon it 
 by a party of rebels during the late war, and subse- 
 quently it was made the central point of a recent 
 Fenian movement. The Weldon House, located 
 near the depot, and contiguous to the Weldon 
 Spring, from whicli it derives its name, is in every 
 respect a first-class" hotel. It is pleasantly situated ; 
 contains more than two hundred rooms, airy and 
 large ; and is distingui,:hed for the general superi- 
 ority of its appointments and modern elegau'^es. 
 
 Stages run regularly from St. All)ansto Sheldon 
 (nine miles,) in connection with the hotels, situated 
 among the celebrated mineral waters, of that locali- 
 ty, known as the Missisquoi Springs. The great 
 number of these springs, — thirteen being clustered 
 in an area of a single acre, — the diversity of their 
 properties, and sanitary reputation, combined with 
 the beauty of the region, renders the place a very 
 favorite resort to the invalid and tourist. The 
 hotels are good and some of them spacious and ele- 
 gant. (The Missisquoi Hotel.) The Missis(|Uoi 
 Spring Hotel is a first-class house, and pleasantly 
 situated on an eminence overlooking a magnificent 
 landscape. 
 
 Sheldon, is a pleasant village on the Missis(pioi 
 river. Near this village is Central Spring, some- 
 what-similar in its qualities to the Missiscpioi water. 
 The Vermont Spring is a new and valuable spring. 
 The Sheldon Spring lies about two miles from Shel- 
 don village. Several excellent hotels have been 
 constructed for the accommodation of visitors at 
 these springs. The'most prominent of these are 
 the Bellevuo and Vermont, at Sheldon; and the 
 
 i ' 
 
 li 
 
 L 
 
 ; It 
 
1 
 
 «i 
 
 ' !■ '' 
 
 ii 
 
 f ; 
 
 11 
 
 72 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 Congress Hall and Missisquoi Valley House, at 
 Sheldon Spring. This place is about eight miles 
 from St. All)ans, from whence regular stages run. 
 
 The railroad divides a short distance beyond St. 
 Albans. The branch running to St. Johns passes 
 East Swanton (nine miles) after crossing the Mis- 
 sisquoi river, and Highgate (four miles), which is 
 the last station in the United States. St. Johns is 
 the only important station in Canada, before reach* 
 ing Montreal. This road enters Montreal by the 
 great Tubular bridge. Tlie Highgate Springs are 
 situated near the Vermont and Canada Kailwav and 
 about twelve miles from St. Albans. 
 
 The Franklin House, Avith its cottages, is plea* 
 santly situated in a thick grove, near the spring, a 
 short distance from Missisquoi liay, and is large and 
 commodious. The numerous attractions it posses* 
 ses, from the celebrity of the water, the character of 
 the house, the beauty of the situation, and its iine 
 sporting grounds, have rendered Highgate a popu* 
 lar resort. 
 
 The Missisquoi Branch of the XL Central has re* 
 cently been constructed from St. Albans to Sheldon* 
 
 Starting from the St. Albans depot on the Rouse's 
 Point branch of the road, we reach (nine miles) 
 Swanton. Before arriving at the station the tourist 
 will remark extensive quarries of AVinooski marble, 
 slate-rock, a large range of lime kilns, and an im* 
 mense accumulation of quick-lime. A short dis- 
 tance beyond the lime kilns may be noticed an 
 extraordinary material used in fdling in the track, 
 and taken from a deposit adjacent, through which 
 the railroad passes. This tlepositis formed of nearly 
 pure marine shell. (Geology of Vermont). The 
 falls at Swanton create a valuable water power, 
 which is utilized bv various manufactories. Pas- 
 
® 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 73 
 
 sengers stop here who intend to proceed to High- 
 gate Springs. The traveller has left the region of 
 mountains, and brawling streams, and now enters 
 on a low, swampy district which is on the verge of 
 that vast northern plain to which we have already 
 adverted. As he approaches Alburgh, he will trav- 
 erse an admirably constructed bridge, due to the 
 skill and ingenuity of the accomplished architect, 
 Henry R. Campbell. This structure, about a mile 
 long, and containing a drawbridge, spans Missis- 
 quoi Bay. Immediately on crossing the bridge he 
 reaches tlie Alburgh Springs station ( sixteen miles ), 
 from which a short and pleasant drive conducts him 
 to this celebrated resort. These springs have been 
 known and visited for their medicinal use since 
 1810, and are constantly growing in puldic favor. 
 
 The historical reader will recollect, that some of 
 the medicinal si)ring.s of Europe were revealed to 
 the Romans, l)y following tlie beaten track made ])y 
 aninuils m resorting to tliem : so tlie mineral Avaters 
 of Vermont, it is noticed, jH'culiarly delight the 
 domesticated cattle. Tlie Iodine Springs, and we 
 tlnnk others, the eurly settlers discovered by follow- 
 j, ing the ])aths made by the moose and deer. In 
 opening these springs, numerous remains of horns 
 and hoofs, aiul other relics of wild <]uadrupeds, were 
 found uathered about them. 
 
 There are two springs at Alburgh, only a few 
 rods apart. Two cai)acious and excellent hotels 
 have been erected in the vicinity. They stand near 
 tlie bay and may be reached by boats. The retire- 
 ment and beauty of the place, the high reputation 
 of the waters, esi)ecially in cutaneous aiul scrofu- 
 lous alfections, and the attracticuis of driving, boat- 
 ing, lishing and gunning, unite to make Alburgh 
 
 1 
 
 i I 
 
 
4 
 
 J 
 
 u 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 popular, both with the invalid and pleasure-seeker. 
 Alburgh Springs House : ( see Appendix.) 
 
 After passing two small stations, (Alburgh and 
 West Alburgh,) the traveller crosses to House's 
 Point, over the remarkable bridge v/hich connects 
 the Vermont and New York shores. This struc- 
 ture, a wonderful triumph of energy, perseverance 
 and mechanical science, is a mile in length, and 
 contains a draw or floating track, designed to admit 
 the passage of vessels navigating the Sorelle. This 
 draw was designed to be three hundred and fiftv feet 
 long, and in its unique and remarkable construction 
 has no antecedent. This al?^ was the work and inven- 
 tion of Mr. Campbell. W'^ have no space to attempt 
 a description of the plan or its operation, which invite 
 the examination of all observing tourists. The 
 landscape, on every side, presented while crossing 
 the bridge, is eminently fine. We are now in the 
 great valley of the St. Lawrence. The massive 
 stone structure, directly at the north, which is grad- 
 ually attaining such vast dimensions, and promises 
 such stupendous strength, is Fort Montgomery, in 
 progress of erection by the government. ( Massa- 
 chusetts House. ) Eouse's Point, ( twenty-three 
 miles,) is the point of junction of three railroads; 
 the Vermont and Canada, Ogdensburgh and Cham- 
 plain and the Montreal and Lake Champlain, or 
 Montreal, St. Johns and Rouse's Point. The sta- 
 tions and distances from House's Point are Lacolle, 
 six miles; Stottsville, seven miles; Grand Ligne, 
 sixteen miles ; St. Johns, twenty-three miles ; La 
 Cadie, thirty miles; Brosseaus, thirty-eight miles; 
 St. Lambert, forty-three miles; Montreal, fifty miles. 
 
 H 
 
Alburgh Springs House, Alburgh Springs, Vt. 
 
 ^iMi 
 
 ii 
 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 75 
 
 Ogdensburgh and Lake Cham- 
 plain Railroad, 
 
 From Rouse's Point to Ogdensburgh, its termini, 
 tliis road is one liundred and eighteen miles in 
 lengtli. It is celebrated for the luxuriant arrange- 
 ments of its cars, and its high speed. Champlain 
 (four miles,) is a neat and thriving village on the Big 
 Chazy river, which is navigaljle nearly to that point, 
 and affords a superior motive power, which is amply 
 occupied. Perry's Mills, ( three miles ); Mooer's 
 Junction, (five miles); where the Montreal and 
 Plattsl)urgh Railroad connects. In the north-west- 
 ern part of this town is a natural curiosity, — its 
 great attractiveness demands more attention than 
 it has received. It is called the Gulf, and is a gorge 
 three hundred feet deep, and about the same width. 
 Perpendicular walls of Potsdam sand-stone enclose 
 it on both sides, and at the bottom lies a p(^nd of 
 fabulou.^ deptlis. Centrcvillo, three miles; A\'ood's 
 Falls, three miles; Altona, three mile?; Ellen- 
 burgh, eight miles; Summit, eight miles,— a few 
 miles bevond tliis station a splendid view of tlie St. 
 Lawrence may be seen from the car windows, — Cha- 
 teaugay, eight miles. A short distance from the 
 village is a mysterious spring. It evolves bubbles 
 of nitrogen gas, and discharging for a period a 
 large stream, it suddenly intermits the flowing and 
 continues dry for an indefinite term. Near the sta- 
 
n 
 
 li 
 
 i \' 
 
 ilii 
 
 76 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 tion lioii&e is a remarkable chasm two hundred feet 
 deep, ]>iercing the solid rook, through which the 
 Chateaugay river flows. The railroad crosses this 
 stream, on a bridge one hundred and sixty feet 
 above the water. From this point the Chateaugay 
 woods are conveniently accessible. (The Koberts 
 House and Union House). Chateaugay Lake lies 
 a few miles from this place, and is easily reached. 
 Chateaugay Lake. — AVe are indebted to the 
 facile and graphic pen of an intelligent lady, for a 
 description of this beautiful locality. " The lake is 
 situated about eight miles from Chateaugay village. 
 Carriages meet the trains at the depot, and convey 
 passengers to the lower lake, by a pleasant ride of 
 about two hours. Here is a good hotel, where 
 sportsmen will be furnished with board, boats and 
 guides, at reasonable charges. At the wharf, in 
 front of the hotel, lies the "Nelly Tupper" always 
 " steamed up ". This lake is two miles in length 
 and one wide, and surrounded by fine mountain 
 scenerv and rockv shores. Leaving this water, the 
 tourist enters the Narrows, four miles long and 
 half a mile in width, wliere there is at some points 
 fine fishing. From a point two miles beyond on the 
 west shore, a foot-path leads to Ragged Lake, where 
 the best hunting iind fishing may be enjoyed, and 
 reliable guides obtained. The "narrows sooji widen 
 and the scenery expands. A short turn is made 
 and tlie upper lake, like magic, is revealed in one 
 of the most lovelv views in the world. There are a 
 number of comfortable boarding-houses at desirable 
 points, and excellent sport. On the west shore line 
 private residences have been constructed by gentle- 
 men of Boston and New York, who spend the sum- 
 mers here with their families. In the centre of the 
 lake is Rock Island, with a snitdl private cottage. 
 
m- 
 
 :he 
 
 ge. 
 
 m 
 
 ® 
 
 THE ADIRONDACK'S. 
 
 
 On visiting the spot, one could easily imagine he 
 was in f-xiry hind, the picture is so grand and beau- 
 tiful, and none sliould leave the lake Avithout get- 
 ting a view of it from that point: and few have 
 done so, if we may judge from the hundreds of 
 names recorded there. Chateaugay Lake is one of 
 the most favorable localities in the state for sports- 
 men and parties, from its easy access to the cars 
 and telegraphs. Sometimes parties, including 
 ladies, incline to stay at the hotel nights and go up 
 the lake iu'the morning either in small boats or the 
 steamer: others, more romantic, prefer to "shanty 
 out'' as Ave call it, in shanties or tents, a very 
 pleasant arrangement in warm weather. The gieat 
 difficulty is, parties coming to this or other lakes, 
 expect to find all the* luxuries of the city." Chateau- 
 gay Lake, is 02 miles, by railroad and stages, from 
 Plattsburgh; Burke, four miles; Malone, eight miles, 
 situated on Salmon River, is a highly prosperous vil- 
 lage, and the most important station on the route. 
 The main street is broad and handsome, and lined by 
 many fine public and private buildings. The passage 
 of the track over the deep and narrow gorge of the 
 river, far above the foaming stream, will attract 
 notice, soon after leaving this station. The Fergu- 
 son House is one of the largest and best hotels in 
 northern New York. Bangor, six miles; Brush's 
 Mills, five miles ; (Giles' Hotel) ; Moira, three miles ; 
 Lawrence, seven miles ; Brazier Falls, five miles ; 
 {Dun ton's Hotel, see Apioendix). This is the near- 
 est station to Masseua Springs, — five miles, — to 
 \vhich stages run in connection with the trains. 
 
 Massena Springs. — These waters have been for 
 a long period widely celebrated, and it is tatradiuuii 
 that their healing properties were known to the abo- 
 riginees. The springs, (of which the St. Regis is 
 
 f 
 * 
 
 :! I 
 
 ! 
 
 ■' 1 
 
 I 
 
 '■ '! 
 
 ! 
 
78 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 1^ 
 
 1: IC 
 
 the most inii)ortant) are live in number, and not 
 essentially different in their medicinal finalities. 
 They are situated on the Kaf[uette river, and are 
 seven miles from Louisville, on the St. Lawrence, — 
 to which stages regularly run, — and four from Long 
 Sault rai)ids, one of the most attractive scenes on the 
 river. The surroundings of the springs are ex- 
 tremelv beautiful. The L^nited States Hotel is a 
 large and commodious house. Potsdam Junction, 
 eleven miles: — from this station runs a branch of 
 the Rome, Watertown and Ogdensburgh Kailroad. 
 (Whitney's Hotel). Stages run daily to Massena 
 Springs, fifteen miles; Madrid, eight miles, — con- 
 nects with Massena Springs by stages, — (Frontier 
 House) ; Lisbon, eight miles ; Ogdensburgh, nine 
 miles. 
 
 Ogdexsburgh. — The site of this interesting town 
 was occupied by a Catholic Mission at an early day. 
 The ruins of the Fort La Presentation, erected by 
 the French in 1748, remain. Ogdensburgh stands 
 near the confluence of the Oswegatchie with the St. 
 Lawrence, and is a prosperous place, possessing im- 
 ^portant commercial and manufacturing advantages. 
 Several steamboat companies connect it with the 
 commerce of the St. Lawrence and great lakes. 
 The Ogdensburgh and Lake Chamj)lain, and Rome, 
 Watertown and Ogdensburgh Railroads terminate 
 here. The structures of the former are on a mag- ® 
 iiificent scale. Nearly a mile of wharves extend 
 along the river, with a grain elevator of the largest 
 size at one extremity. A steam ferry connects these 
 roads with the Grand Trunk and Ottawa and Pres- 
 cott Raihvays. The city is agreeably laid out in 
 broad and straight streets, and contains many ele- 
 gant private mansions and imposing public edifices. 
 On the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence may be 
 
 ® 
 
 ® 
 
 (*) 
 
® 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 79 
 
 observed the remains of the stone wiiul-niill, the 
 scene of an heroic defence during the rebellion of 
 1837, maintained by a small band of patriots against 
 a far superior British force. The population of 
 Ogdensburgh is about twelve thousand. The prin- 
 cipal hotels are Seymour House, Johnson House, 
 and Myers House. 
 
 The western section of this railway crosses a level 
 country, traversed by numerous streams, the most 
 prominent of which start from the recesses of the 
 Adirondacks. Near Aladrid, the track crosses the 
 La Grass; at Potsdam Junction, the Raquette; at 
 Malone, the Salmon river, and at Brazier, the St. 
 Regis. " 
 
 •-♦♦♦->■ 
 
 Montreal and Plattsburgh R. R. 
 
 This railway is sixty-three miles in length. The 
 route from Mooers Junction to Plattsburgh pre- 
 sents no points of particular interest. The restau- 
 rant at Mooer's Junction is highly celebrated. The 
 trains perform one trip daily in each direction, 
 leaving Plattsburgh in the morning and Montreal 
 in the afternoon, connecting with the morning and 
 evening boat. Passengers arriving by the evening 
 train, and those leaving Rouse's Point by the after- 
 noon boat, who wish to secure a complete survey of 
 the scenery of the lake, should remain at least a 
 night at Plattsburgh, and embark in the morning 
 boat. A day or two however, might be delightfully 
 
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 THE ADIUOXDACKS. 
 
 occupied in visiting tlie point.s ofliistoric j)roniini'nee 
 associated witli tliis inturostiiig localitv. Tourists, 
 proposing a tri)i tlirougli Lake Georgi*, hy adopting 
 our suggestion will stop at Ticonderoga in tiie alter- 
 noon instead of experiencing the discomlits of a 
 landing jit nigiit. Thoiie desiring to hasten their 
 journey may enil)ariv directly on ihe Lake (ieorge 
 steamer, hut few intelligent travellers will be will- 
 ing to leave these scenes without a longer sojourn. 
 Visitors may leave Plattshurgli hy the six o'clock 
 morning train, and spending five hours in Montreal, 
 return by the evening cars. The stations on the 
 M. and P. railway, are Beekmantown, four miles; 
 West Chazy, five; Sciota, five; Mooer's Junction, 
 four; Province Line, two; Hemmingford, four; 
 Johnson's, four; Hughs, four; Lapigionniere, three; 
 St. Remi, four ; St. Isidore, six ; Caughnawaga, five; 
 Lacliine, two; Montreal, eight. Ottawa House, 
 [see Appendix]. 
 
 
a 
 
 j 
 
Birmingham Falls, Ausable Chasm. 
 
THE APIRONDACKS. 
 
 81 
 
 I 
 
 THE AUSABLE CHASM, 
 
 
 Or, as it was formerly called, " the Walled Banks 
 of the All Sable," is situated on the Au Sable river, 
 three miles from Port Kent and two from Keese- 
 ville. The plank road crosses a bridge at the head 
 of the gorge, and the chasm, along its whole length, 
 is easily accessible from the public highway. Hence, 
 it may be visited without labor or fatigue. This 
 stupendous phenomenon has been well described, 
 as " one of the natural wonders of the world ". 
 Miss Breamer, the Swedish author, while gazing on 
 the scene with enraptured wonder and the delight of 
 genius, exclaimed, that " a visit to it would reward 
 a voyage from Europe". Lying almost upon the 
 line of one of the most thronged routes of pleasure 
 travel on the continent, and reached with every 
 desirable facility, — and in addition, associated with 
 numerous and varied other objects of interest, it is 
 surprising that any tourist, in pursuit of the beau- 
 tiful and imposing in nature, should pass throiio^h 
 Lake Champlain without pausing and turning aside 
 to explore the " Chasm of the Au Sable." It may be 
 reached by a pleasant steamboat excursion from 
 Burlington, or a delightful ride.of twelve miles from 
 Plattsburgh ; or, if preferred, the Whitehall and 
 Plattsburgh liailroad will take the traveller to the 
 depot at Peru, from wiience he will be conveyed in 
 excellent carriages, by the way of Keescville, to the 
 Chasm, or directly there, a distance of about seven 
 miles. The usual course, is to land at Port Kent 
 
 X 
 
 ■:) 
 
 
 f I 
 
82 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 if^ 
 
 I i 
 
 
 and proceed at once to the scene, or to ride to Keese- 
 ville, and visit it at greater leisure. It will claim 
 more than a transient and cursorv examination. 
 The superior hotels at Keeseville, the interesting 
 objects of attraction in that village, and the i)leasant 
 drives in the vicinity, would render a sojourn there 
 peculiarly agreeable. Regular stage coaches meet 
 the steamers at Port Kent, and livery carriages 
 may always be ordered from Keeseville to accommo- 
 date individuals or parties. (See advertisement in 
 Appendix.) We will transcribe a description of 
 this locality, prepared by the writer in connection 
 with a former publication. It was thought, that the 
 account would receive an increased interest and be 
 better understood by tracing the course of the river 
 from the point where the sand-stone formation, 
 which, in effect, has produced this Chasm, com- 
 mences. 
 
 The passage of the Au Sable river along its lofty 
 and perpendicular banks and through the Chasm 
 at the high bridge, is more familiar to the public 
 mind than most of the striking and picturesque fea- 
 tures of that romantic stream. The continued and 
 gradual force of the current, aided perhaps by some 
 vast eflfort of nature, has formed a passage of the riv- 
 er through the deep layers of sand-stone rock, which 
 are boldly developed above the village of Keeseville, 
 and form the embankments of the river, until it 
 reaches the quiet basin below the high bridge. In 
 the vicinity of Keeseville, the passage of the stream 
 is between a wall on either side of fiftv feet in 
 height; leaving these the river glides gently along 
 a low valley, until suddenly hurled over a precipice, 
 that creates a fall of singular beauty. Foaming 
 and surging from this point, over a rocky bed until 
 it reaches the village of Birmingham, it there 
 
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 stairway at Ausable Chasm. 
 
 v._ 
 
THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 83 
 
 abruptly bursts into a dark, deep chasm of sixty feet. 
 A bridge, witli one abutment setting upon a rock 
 that divides the stream, crosses the river at the 
 head of this fall. This bridge is perpetually envel- 
 oped in a thick cloud of spray and mist. In winter, 
 the frost work encrusts the rocks and trees, with the 
 most gorgeous fabrics : myriads of columns and 
 arches, and icy diamonds, and stalactites glitter in 
 the sunbeams. In the sunshine, a brilliant rainbow 
 spreads its radiant arc over this deep abyss. All 
 .these elements, rare in their combination, shed 
 upon this scene an effect inexpressibly wild, pictur- 
 esque and beautiful. The river plunges from the 
 latter precipice amid the embrasures of the vast gulf, 
 in which for nearly a mile it is quite hidden to ob- 
 servation from above. It pours in a wild torrent, 
 now along a natural canal, formed in the rocks in 
 almost perfect and exact courses, and now darts 
 madly down a precipice. The wall rises on a ver- 
 tical face upon each side from seventy-five to one 
 hundred and fiftv feet, whilst the width of the 
 chasm rarely exceeds thirty feet, and at several 
 points the stupendous masonry of tl b opposite Avails 
 approaches within eight or ten fee; Lateral fissures, 
 deep and narrov/, project from the main ravine at 
 nearly right angles. Tlie abyss is reached through 
 one of these crevices by a stairway descending to the 
 water by two hundred and twelve steps. The entire 
 mass of these walls is formed of laminjv of sandstone 
 rock, laid in regular and precise structures, almost 
 rivaling the most accurate artificial work. The 
 pines and cedars starting from the apertures of the 
 wall, spread a dark canopy over the gulf. The in- 
 strumentality which has produced this wonderful 
 work is a pr»)blem that presents a wide scope for in- 
 teresting, but unsatisfactory speculation. 
 
 f 
 
 ! 
 
84 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 ■ 
 
 A report of tlic State geologist asserts, " that near 
 the bottom of the fissure at the High bridge, and 
 through an extent of seventy feet, numerous speci- 
 mens of a small bi valvular molusca, or linguhT," are 
 discovered, and " that ripple marks appear at the 
 depth of seventy or eighty feet." 
 
 An explorer will discover various points of interest 
 as he passes along the high "wooded banks, and 
 watches the hidden passage of the water beneath, or 
 examines the fissures, seams, and points the rocks 
 assume. At a narrow part of the goi-ge, he will be 
 able to trace the early road constructed by the 
 pioneer settlers, and which crossed the cliasm on a 
 bridge built upon the bodies of trees felled across it. 
 At the foot of the stairway is a platform, separated 
 by a narrow, deep cliasm, from what is called the 
 Table Rock. Through this passage, the river, com- 
 pressed into a deep and limited channel, rushes with 
 the impetuosity of a mill-race. The Table Rock 
 was formerly reached by walking upon a log over 
 the chasm, and was a favorite but somewhat dange- 
 rous resort of pic-nic parties, until a tragic event 
 arrested the habit. A Mr. Dyer, an Episcopal min- 
 ister, was, some years ago, in the act of leading 
 a lady across this log, when suddenly losing his 
 balance he fell into the rushing torrent, and never 
 rose to the surface, nor was his body seen by the 
 horror-stricken spectators, until days afterwards, 
 when it was found far below upon a shallow in the 
 river. The beautiful and spacious woods on the 
 rocks above, which have been neatly prepared for 
 the purpose, are usually the scene of these festive 
 gatherings, where often, on a bright summer day, 
 several parties of pleasure seekers may be seen enjoy- 
 ing a healthful recreation and the beauties of the 
 place. Each, unless they choose to fraternize, is 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 So 
 
 lis 
 
 le 
 is 
 
 distinct, and nndistnrbed in its movements. At 
 low water, by moving cautiously below the cliffs or 
 clambering down the steep bank, the adventurous 
 explorer will gain several wierd and iantastic views. 
 "The Devil's Oven," a deep, cavernous recess in the 
 rock, is one of these. 
 
 Kei:sevi].lk. This is an important and prosper- 
 ous manufacturing village, standing on both sides 
 of the An Sable lUver, about four miles from the 
 lake. Its location is very handsome; the glimmer- 
 ing river, as it is viewed from the roads that ap- 
 proach the village on the adjacent hills, and the 
 grove-like profusion of the trees that embrace it, 
 impart to the i)lace a singularly pleasant aspect. 
 Keeseville has no marked public buildings, excejit 
 some line Cliurclies and a new Bank; but many of 
 its private residences are elegant edifices. The river 
 affords a vast motive power, in and contiguous to 
 the village, adapted to almost unlimited expansion. 
 Its manufacturing institutions are new, large and 
 varied, and rapidly increasing. Among those most 
 worthy of the attention of the tourist, are the 
 Horse \ail Factory, the Twine and the Wire works. 
 Each of these will reward a careful and protracted 
 examination. The machines used in the Horse 
 Nail Factory are the invention of Mr. Daniel Dodge, 
 of this village, and Avill bt^ regarded as a wonderful 
 triumph of mechanical science, directed by great 
 ingenuity. The spectator will look upon it with 
 mingled feelings of wonder and admiration, at its 
 mighty force, so completely controlled and adjusted, 
 and the beauty and precision of the work. A walk 
 through these works, and an examination of the 
 various processes connected with the fabrication, 
 the assorting Jind preparing of these nails for mar- 
 ket, will afford a most interesting study. 
 
 I! 
 
86 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 • 1 
 
 The sojourner at Keeseville should not fail to 
 direct his steps to the Rolling Mill, on the first dam 
 below the arch bridge. This mill is assumed to be 
 second to none other in the perfection and power of 
 its arrangements. To watch its operations is deeply 
 exciting. As the glowing, red hot rods rush through 
 the rollers, a stranger will almost shrink from them, 
 as he sees the long irons vibrating and writhing, like 
 the contortions of fiery serpents. The massive stone 
 bridge, that spans the river by a single ponderous 
 arch, in the centre of the village, will gratify the 
 most careful inspection. The "Evergreen Ceme- 
 tery," at Keeseville, by its peculiarly favorable posi- 
 tion and surroundings, and from the taste with 
 which it has been arranged, is among the most 
 beautiful burying grounds in the country. The 
 monument to the distinguished George A. Simmons 
 will be one of the first objects the eye of the visitor 
 will rest upon. 
 
 Fronting on one of the main streets of the village, 
 the stranger will observe a tasteful structure, 
 which covers a valuable medicinal spring, upon the 
 premises of Mr. John B. Wills. The water of this 
 spring has been celebrated from an early date in the 
 settlement of the country, for the remarkable cures 
 effected in various complaints. Several eminent 
 chemists have examined the water with highly fa- 
 vorable results. It is pronounced both saline and 
 calybeate, closely resembling some of the best of 
 the German mineral spring waters, and that it will 
 prove a valuable medicinal agent. A fine house on 
 the premises, will receive a few boarders. 
 
 The drives in the environs of Keeseville are par- 
 ticularly pleasant. Lake Champlain is only dis- 
 tant, at several points, four miles, where excellent 
 fishing, with agreeable opportunities for rowing 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 87 
 
 and sailing, can always be secured. An excursion 
 to the defile, known as " Poke Moonshine," 
 about eight miles on the Elizabethtown road, will 
 afford a view of a striking exhibition of the " In- 
 dian Pass" in miniature. Near this rojid, four 
 miles from Keeseville, are situated Butternut and 
 Augur ponds, the scene of a highly successful ex- 
 periment in the tranference of tish. A few years 
 ago, pickerel were removed from the lake to these 
 ponds. The fresh and abundant feeding grounds 
 they enjoyed, tended to produce an immense in- 
 crease, in both their numbers and size, while these 
 changes, and the purity and coolness of the water 
 communicated to the tish a new and infinitely im- 
 proved flavor. Fish of an enormous weight are now 
 taken in great quantities. Brook trout are copious 
 in many streams in the vicinity. A short ride, of 
 less than three miles, to Hallock Hill, will introduce 
 the tourist to a spot where he may contemplate one 
 of the richest and loveliest landscapes the eye ever 
 rested upon. It is soft and beautiful, but in some 
 directions magnificent and impressive, — spreading 
 over a wide and diversified scenery. The late Arch 
 Bishop Hughes, Avho, in his periodical visits to a 
 little church, perched upon a mountain west of 
 Peru, never failed to visit a rock where, from a dif- 
 ferent point, this scene might be viewed, pronounc- 
 ed the landscape the most delightful he had ever 
 beheld. Authors have described it ; travellers have 
 long expatiated upon its beauties, and no lover of 
 the charms and grandeur of nature, should omit a 
 pilgrimage to the place. Prospect Hill, about a mile 
 from Keeseville, is an eminence from which a very 
 enlarged and beautiful survey may be had, and forms 
 a pleasant stroll or ride from the village. The Au 
 Sable House and the Adirondack Hotel, (see appen- 
 
88 
 
 THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 (lix,) at Keeseville, are both excellent, first-class 
 houses, and will afford delightful sojourns for fami- 
 lies during the summer months. " The Chasm 
 House," in Birmingham, near the Chasm, supplies, 
 at all hours, good meals. The livery accommoda- 
 tions at Keeseville are ample. 
 
 -♦♦•«»-► 
 
 THE AU SABLE RIVER. 
 
 This stream, from its mouth to its highest foun- 
 tains among the Adirondacks, is fraught witli ever- 
 recurring phases that delight the tourist, and with 
 grand, stern and solemn exliibitions that reward 
 the researches of the explorer. We have attempted, 
 and are aware how imperfectly, to describe the 
 Chasm. 
 
 The river discharges by two mouths, forming a per- 
 fect delta. Both brandies are navigable by boats, and 
 a row along tli<^ narrow channel, winding amid 
 aquatic grasses, and deeply canopied by overhang- 
 ing trees and banks, affords a novel and exciting 
 excursion. In the ujiper part, dry glades occur, 
 which furnish favorite and secluded resorts to par- 
 ties of pleasure, where, beneath the broad shades of 
 the mnjestic elms or sycamores, they may indulge 
 in the jileasant pastimes and wild revelries that such 
 scenes invite. This part of the river is fav(>rable 
 ground for fishing with the seine, and is often visit- 
 ed for tluit purpose by tourists. In some spots along 
 
THE M)IRONDACKS 
 
 80 
 
 this delta, the siirfaet' of tlie Avjiter is loaclod with 
 the richly peri'unied and chaste white water lily. 
 
 In passing,' alon^* the plank road, a short distance 
 below the Kolliiiii- Mill, the roaring of a water-fall 
 and the mist ascendinii; from it, nuiy be noticed. 
 These betray a cascade, which is hidden from the 
 road by intervening trees and an eminence, bnt is 
 one of the finest and most picturesque upon the 
 river. A stretch of deep, still water extends three 
 miles up the river, between the high sand-stone 
 blulfs we have mentioned, and then along wide, ver- 
 dant meadows on one side and rugged banks upon the 
 other, and ailbrds ])leasant boating. The plank road 
 from Keeseville to Au Sable Forks, is a charming 
 drive, through a rich and varied scenery, with the 
 majestic form ol thf White Face^Mountains, direct- 
 ly in iVont, standijig like a bulwark to ojipose our 
 progress. Six mil<'S from Keeseville, at Clinton- 
 ville; are the works of the Peru Steel and Iron 
 Works, embracing, it is stated, the largest forge 
 upon the continent; and six miles beyond, passing 
 midway the Point of Kocks, the present terminus of 
 the Whitehall aiul Plattsburgh li. li., we reach Au 
 vSable Forks, where is established one branch of the 
 vast manufaccuring business of " J. & J. Rogers 
 Iron Company." Here are three comfortable 
 hotels. 
 
 At this place tiie Eastern and Western branches 
 unite iind form the Au Sable river proper. In pur- 
 suing our proposed journey, the tourist will continue 
 to travel through a pleasant country, along the 
 banks of the stream, by the delightful valley of Jay 
 to Keene Flats, twenty miles. Evidences will be 
 noticed of the ravages by the terrible inundation of 
 1857, through the entire valley. 
 
90 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 Keexe Flats. — This name is applied to one of 
 the loveliest spots in all the Adirondack region. It 
 is a rich allnvial valley, along which the river glides 
 between high banks, lined and almost hidden by a 
 thick hedge of alders. The varied flora of the dis- 
 trict is most copious and exquisitely beautiful. 
 Environed by mountains and hills ou every side, the 
 tourist wonders by what unseen avenue he entered 
 the valley, and hoAv the stream penetrates the sur- 
 rounding barriers. So deeply sequestered and with- 
 draAvn from the din and bustle of the world, the 
 loveliness of the place, and its quiet repose, invite 
 a yearly increase of visitors. Mr. N. M. Dibble and 
 Mr. H. Washbond have convenient boarding houses, 
 and several other of the inhabitants also open their 
 dwelling for the accommodation of summer 
 residents. (Keene P. 0.) At Keene village, and 
 Jay village will be found comfortable hotels. 
 Bedee's is about four miles above, at the head at the 
 fla-ts. Approaching the Au Sable Ponds from 
 the vallev, we enter the vestibule to this vast 
 sanctuary of nature, which in all its grandeur 
 and silence expands on every side. Decade of miles 
 succeeds decade as we penetrate its recesses ; the 
 forest is interminable; the mountains ascend 
 around us in countless peaks. The sportman, he 
 who would combine comfort with relaxation, may 
 seek the Adirondacks where civilization mingles 
 with the savage ; but if he would contemplate them 
 in their glory, their solitudes and desolation, he 
 should advance deep into the wilderness, where he 
 finds no impress of the presence of man. The wa- 
 ters are thronged with fish, but the solitariness of 
 the scene is little relieved by other animated nature. 
 The deer usually seek more congenial feeding 
 grounds ; the bear is occasionally encountered, — 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 01 
 
 the panther rarely ; ami the deserts are not favorite 
 resorts of the smaller animals. These wilds were 
 formerly the abode of the moose, where it rejoiced 
 in the abundance of its choicest food, the mountain 
 ash and striped maple, but thehuf^e animal no lon- 
 ger stalks anu)ng these mountains, — it is extinct. 
 Birds of song are not found, except on the confines 
 of civilized life. Desolation, silence and solitude 
 maintain their primeval empire. When the wind is 
 hushed, the silence* of tiie wilderness is alone bro- 
 ken by the music, at times, of some little cascade, the 
 rippling of a tiny rill, or the deep cadences of a 
 roaring and dashing torrent. The strange tranquil- 
 lity of these solitudes is a marked characteristic that 
 will be felt by the explorer, and will imjiress and 
 thrill his mind. This profound silence, is a still- 
 ness, awful by its intensity. The absence of animal 
 life upon these mountains will be observed by the 
 explorer. The author ascending White Face in the 
 autumn, saw no living creature save a solitary red 
 s(piirrel, and small butterily that had undoubtedly 
 been wafted there bv the wind. About four miles 
 from the vallev we reiich the An Sable Ponds, but 
 before visiting them, one or two natural curiosities 
 should not be passed. 
 
 The Hainbow Falls.— This remarkable cas- 
 cade is situated in Keene, within a mile of these 
 ponds, and forms a striking feature of that wild, 
 picturesque region. It is upon Rainbow brook, a 
 snnill tributary of the south branch of the An Sable 
 river. The fall is computed from careful observa- 
 tion to be one hundred and twenty-five feet in sheer 
 vertical descent. The site is separated from the 
 Keene flats, the nearest human residence, by a dense 
 forest three or four miles in extent, and is hidden in 
 the recesses of the vast wilderness of the Adiron- 
 
 I , 
 
 i 
 
D2 
 
 THE ADIHOXDACKS. 
 
 dacks. It has but lately been revealed to general 
 knowledge. The falls are at present only accessible 
 by a path through the forest ; but they have already 
 excited the attention of the artist and explorer, and 
 it is in contenii^lation to immediately open by con- 
 venient roads, a district that will be regarded not 
 among the least attractive or interesting in the 
 Adirondack region, to the sportsman and the wor- 
 shiper of nature, in her secluded temples. 
 
 Not far from the Rainbow Falls, upon the branch 
 of the Roaring brook, and hidden among the cliffs 
 and forests, another cascade will be found, if possi- 
 ble still more impressive and remarkable. There is 
 in reality two falls in connection: one leaps over a 
 vertical precipice into the deep gorge ; the other 
 rushes down two hundred and fifty feet in a rapid 
 descent, along a groove five feet in depth, which by 
 the force of the water has been worn into the solid 
 rock. 
 
 Another object of exceeding interest, situated, not 
 remote from the Au Sable Ponds, may appropriately 
 be noticed in this connection. 
 
 " The Hunter's Pass." This gorge lies in the town 
 of North Hudson, and is formed by the deep, parallel 
 precipices of Dix's Peak and Nipple top, which are 
 among the highest and most sequestered mountains 
 of the Adirondacks. It has great similitude to the In- 
 dian Pass, and is second only to that amazing exhi- 
 bition in its sublime and imposing features. This 
 pass is rarely penetrated, even by the hunter, and at 
 a very late period only has been visited for the spe- 
 cific purpose of exploration. It is buried several 
 miles deeper in the mazes of these forests and moun- 
 tains than the Au Sable ponds or Rainbow falls, but 
 is sufficiently near these points to enhance the attrac- 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 93 
 
 not 
 lately 
 
 tion of tlie district, when it shall have become a new 
 object of interest and resort. The scene can now 
 only be reached by the severest toil of several miles, 
 (but the feat has been achieved by brave and delicate 
 woman,) and when this is accomplished, the dense 
 forest, the masses of rocks, their mosses and their 
 debris, gathered for ages, render the gorge almost 
 impenetrable. 
 
 The new and successive revelations which are 
 constantly occurring in the physical aspect of the 
 Adirondacks, illustrate the profound seclusion and 
 great extent of the AVilderness, and warrant the 
 opinion that other objects of deep interest remain 
 in its recesses, yet to be unveiled. It is believed 
 that several of the more secluded peaks of these 
 mountains have never been ascended, Such views 
 are rendered still more impressive when it is con- 
 sidered that many of these localities, some of them 
 still unexplored, lie within a hundred miles of the 
 Capitol at Albany. 
 
 • •• 
 
 itains 
 leln- 
 exhi- 
 This 
 nd at 
 
 THE AU SABLE PONDS. 
 
 btrac- 
 
 The An Sable ponds form the loftiest as well as 
 most important reservoir of the South branch of 
 the Au Sable river. Lying [imid the acclivities of 
 the Adirondacks, and buried deeply in the solitudes 
 of forests, which have yet scarcely been disturbed 
 by the movements of enterprise, these waters are 
 
94 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 
 II 
 
 
 ! 
 
 calculated, when more fully known, to attract the 
 attention of the tourist and sportsman, by their sol- 
 itariness, their beauty and sporting wealth. They 
 are four or five miles from civilized habitations. 
 Small boats have been placed upon them, to facili- 
 tate access to Mt. Marcy, towards which they afford 
 one of the most direct routes. These ponds are 
 classed among the most beautiful lakes of the re- 
 gion. 
 
 The An Sable ponds lie on the same elevated 
 plateau with the Boreas Pond, a fountain head of 
 the Hudson, and through a considerable district, 
 the surface is so completely level, that, it is said, 
 during high water, canoes navigate between the two 
 sheets of water. This singular arrangement is wor- 
 thy examination. 
 
 In following up the western branch of the Au 
 Sable, we reach, nine miles above Au Sable Forks, 
 Wilmington village, where a fine water power sup- 
 plies several manufactories. The next point of 
 interest is 
 
 The Wilmington Notch. The river breaks 
 through its mountain barrier in an exhibition most 
 thrilling and impressive. The stream, compressed 
 in a narrow passage of a few feet in width, becomes 
 here an impetuous torrent, and foams and dashes 
 along the base of a precipitous wall formed by 
 White Face Mountain, which towers above it in 
 nearly a vertical ascent of thousands of feet, while 
 on tlie other side it almost laves the abrui)t and 
 rugged crags of another lofty precipice. Bursting 
 through this obstacle, the river leaps into an abyss 
 of more than one hundred feet in depth, so dark 
 and impervious from mantling trees and impending 
 rocks, that the eye cannot penetrate its hidden 
 caverns. The road to North Elba, wliich has been 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 95 
 
 recently constructed through the gorge, renders this 
 remarkable spot easily accessible to the tourist, and 
 we can fancy few scenes more attractive by their 
 wild and, romantic beauty, or by their stern and 
 appalling grandeur. 
 
 Near the Notch, upon rocks which form the bank 
 of the river, a singular deposit of native copperas 
 exists, which may be scraped off in large quantity. 
 The curious, or the naturalist, who examines this 
 formation, will be inclined to trace out the " Cop- 
 peras Pond," which lies high up Promontory moun- 
 tain, east of the place, and is strongly impregnated 
 with the salt. Various other objects of interest are 
 profusely scattered about White Face, — such as the 
 palasades, lofty hills, and dashing cascades: the im- 
 press of an Indian's foot-print. The intelligent 
 landlords will indicate all these. 
 
 Soon after passing this interesting locality, the 
 tourist will reach Lake Placid, by diverging a little 
 from the highway. It is situated principally in 
 North Elba, and just touches that beautiful plateau 
 in the peerless landscape of which it forms a con- 
 spicuous and very essential feature. Its great ex- 
 panse, its deep and transparent waters, its beautiful 
 proportions, stretching its sinuosities along bold 
 headlands far into the recesses of the mountains, 
 until in the distant view its waters seem to lave the 
 base of White Face, although in fact separated from 
 it by a rich valley of two miles in width, unite to 
 render Lake Placid one of the most delightful and 
 attractive objects in this land of loveliness and 
 silence. A small pond connects with the lake by a 
 narrow channel. This pond has no other inlet or 
 outlet, and is distinguished by a singular movement. 
 The water flows for a period of two or three minutes 
 from the lake into the pond ; an interval of a few 
 
 [I 
 
tf 
 
 96 
 
 THE ADIRO>'DACKS. 
 
 ! i 
 
 seconds succeeds, with no apparent motion of the 
 water ; after this, for the same time, it flows back 
 again into tlie lake. This ebbing and flowing is, I 
 believe, perpetual. Lake Placid is one oi the most 
 important heads of the Au Sable river. The manu- 
 facturing interest on the line of that stream has 
 erected, at the outlet of the lake, an expensive and 
 ponderous dam. This work forms the lake into a 
 capacious reservoir, and secures a permanent supply 
 of water, at most seasons, to the immense Avorks 
 moved by the Au Sable. 
 
 Five miles farther, we stop at Scott's, the most 
 prominent resort to tourists in this section of North 
 Elba, where comfortable accommodations may be 
 had, and intelligent directions obtained in regard to 
 the surrounding region. It lies almost beneath the 
 shadow of the Adirondacks. 
 
 The former farm and home of John Brown are 
 immediately contiguons to Scott's. This property 
 has been purchased by a company organized by the 
 earnest effbrts of Miss Kate Field, with a view of 
 holding it, in perpetuity, as a memorial of an mo- 
 mentous event in our national history. The 
 original proprietors are Miss Kate Field, Isaac H. 
 Bailey, John E. Williams, William II. Lee, Geo. A. 
 liobbins, G. C. Ward, Henry Clews, D. R. Martin, 
 LeGrand B. Cannon, Chas. A. Smith, S. B. Chitten- 
 den, Isaac Sherman, J. S. Schultz, Elliot C. Cowden, 
 Thomas Murphy, Chas. G. Judson, Salem H. Wales, 
 Sinclair Toucey, and Horace C. Claflin. 
 
 The grave of Brown is visible from the road, and 
 pilgrimages will be long directed to it, not only by 
 sympathizers in his sentiments but by the curious, 
 and the interest excited by his extraordinary career. 
 
 The town of North Elba will alwavs entrance the 
 tourist by the extreme affluence of its natural beau- 
 
ti of the 
 ws back 
 ing is, 1 
 lie most 
 B niaiiu- 
 ?am lias 
 ive and 
 3 into a 
 ; supply 
 I works 
 
 le most 
 I' Xorth 
 may be 
 gard to 
 [ith the 
 
 wn are 
 roperty 
 by the 
 iew of 
 m mo- 
 The 
 aac H. 
 Jeo. A. 
 fartin, 
 litteii- 
 'wden, 
 ^Vales, 
 
 1, and 
 
 iiy by 
 
 rions, 
 career. 
 3e the 
 beau- 
 
 John Brown's Grave, North Elba. 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 97 
 
 ties, ill which it is not surpassed and scarcely ap- 
 proached by any other section of the state. The 
 gigantic amphitheatre of mountains, which almost 
 encircle the town, form in its outline an arc of 
 nearly sixty miles in extent, and embraces within 
 this area a territory of about one hundred square 
 miles. Upon the west, the plains of North Elba 
 mingle with that vast plateau, teeming with rivers 
 and lakes and forests, which spread to the shores of 
 the St. Lawrence. The grandeur and imposing beauty 
 of these mountain bulwarks, which, singularly 
 blending with a landscape of lakes and rivulets, vales 
 and hills, combine to form a scenery of transcendent 
 loveliness and magnificence. From one position, 
 the eye gazes on tlie lofty group of the Adirondack 
 mountains. Mt. Marcy stands out in his perfect 
 contour and vast dimensions. * Mt. Mclntyre and 
 McMartin, trace their outlines upon the horizon, 
 and far towards the south-west, the group of Mt. 
 Seward limit the view ; on the north, the White 
 Face envelopes the plain, and on the east, tower the 
 dark and rugged cliffs of the Keone mountains. 
 
 The western branch of the Au Sable river flows 
 through the town, and nearly the whole distance 
 along a wide alluvial valley, almost as broad, and 
 apparently of fertility equal to the fiats of the Mo- 
 hawk river. Near Edmonds' Pond, a few miles 
 from Scott's, is a spot that will repay a prolonged 
 inspection. In the bed of a little brook which 
 leaps down a slide formed some years ago by an 
 avalanche, innumerable minerals sparkle and glow 
 in every direction. High up the precipice occur a 
 series of caves, which are the deposits of varied gems 
 and minerals, and in beauty and variety of their 
 material, almost rival the stories of eastern caverns. 
 Here is found calcareous spar, of various colors, and 
 
 I 
 
 t J 
 
98 
 
 LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 
 
 crystals of epidote, coccoline and horn-blend. Tlie 
 scientific explorer would enjoy in this locality a rich 
 and delightful field. 
 
 About seven miles from Scott's, the tourist may 
 penetrate through the wilderness to a scene that is 
 ranked among the natural curiosities of the world. 
 Standing amid its solitude and silence, and contem- 
 plating its vast proportions, its solemn majesty 
 the novelty of its aspect and its mystic ^rmatiou, 
 an enduring influence is impressed on the mind, 
 that is not even transcended by the wonders and 
 glories of Niagara. 
 
 The Ixdiax Pass. — The mighty convulsions 
 which have upheaved the lofty mountains of this 
 region, or rent asunder the barriers that enclosed 
 the seas, which washed their cliffs, have left impres- 
 sive vestiges of their -power, in the striking natural 
 phenomena spread over the country. None of these 
 afford more wonderful exhibitions of those terrific 
 agencies, or more imposing beauty and magnifi- 
 cence, than a remarkable gorge, known as the In- 
 dian pass, in the impressive aboriginal Otneyarh, 
 the Stony Giants. It occupies a narrow ravine, 
 formed by a rapid acclivity of Mt. Mclntyre on one 
 side, rising at an angle of forty-five degrees, and on 
 the opposite, by the dark naked wall of a vertical prec- 
 ipice, towering to an altitude of eight hundred to 
 one thousand two hundred feet from its base, and 
 extending more than a mile in length. The base 
 itself is elevated about two thousand five hundred 
 feet above tide water. The deep and appalling 
 gorge is strewn and probably occupied for several 
 hundred feet, with gigantic fragments hurled into 
 it from the impending cliffs, by some potent agency. 
 The elements still advance the process. So exact 
 and wonderful is the stupendous masonry of this 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 99 
 
 bill wail', that it seems, could human nerve allow 
 the effort, a ntone dropped from the summit, might 
 reach the base without striking an impediment. 
 The pencil cannot portrny, nor language describe, 
 the awful grandeur and sublimity of this spectacle. 
 The deep seel u.-ii on, the wild 8olitr.de of the place, 
 awe and impress. Many miles from iuinian habita- 
 tion, nature here reigns in iur primitive silence and 
 repose. The heavy forests that clothe the steeps of 
 Mclntyre, and shroud the broken and confused 
 masses of rock in the gorge, add to the gloom and 
 solemnity of these dark ivccsses. A tiny rivulet 
 just starting from its birthplace amid these solitudes, 
 chafes and frets along its rocky passage, in its course 
 to the Iludson, and on the opposite side of the ra- 
 vine is discharged one of the highest affluents of 
 the An Sable, while from a pond on the summit of 
 the cliff, a small stream Hows into the Kaquette, 
 seeking the St. Lawrence. 
 
 In this vicinity, a remarkable gorge occurs 
 between Pitch-off and Long Pond mountains, two 
 very striking peaks lying near and parallel to cjidi 
 other. This is a narrow defile embraced by nearly 
 perpendicular walls a thousand feet in height. At 
 its base lie the romantic Edmonds Ponds, referred on 
 a preceding page. Between these ponds and Pitrli- 
 off mountain Ji most picturesque road winds lor 
 several miles, and connects with the highway near 
 Scott's. Mt. Marcy is frequently ascended from 
 Xorth Elba. 
 
 »■ « • 
 
 > 1 » . < 
 
 » ) V J 
 « O 4 I • 
 
1 
 
 100 
 
 THE ADIIIOXDACKS. 
 
 isv 
 
 The Northern Wilderness. 
 
 This remarkable region has not, until compara- 
 tively a recent period, elicited any great degree of 
 attention from the tourist or explorer. The mind 
 does not readily accept the fact, that a territory nearly 
 equal in size to half the State of Vermont and about 
 the same superficial area as Connecticut, lies in tlie 
 bosom of New York, touching on one extremity 
 the long occupied and densely populated valley of 
 the Mohawk, and encircled by a highly cultivated 
 and matured country, is still shrouded by its prime- 
 val forests, and remains almost as it came from the 
 .hands of its Creator. This territory embraces nearly 
 all Hamilton county, and parts of Herkimer, Onei- 
 da, Lewis, St. Lawrence, Franklin, Essex, and War- 
 ren, and extends over one hundred miles in length, 
 and about eighty miles in breadth. 
 
 Nature reigns in this Avilderness, in her original 
 repose and isolation. The daring hunter alone for- 
 merly penetrated its mazes in pursuit of its savage 
 denizens, the moose, the bear, tlio panther, and deer. 
 The fisherman, whose ardor lead him into the deep 
 recesjSt's'of ,tlAe'i'':''est! bro'we ti\e. riaiot slumber of 
 these Take's .md Mvcrs, but within the boundaries of 
 this 'Sequestered reolon, man ]i.isV scarcely an 
 ubqde, iii, his civili.r.ftion- and impro>^ements. A 
 portion of this territory is mountainous, and 
 impracticable to culture. The sheer and lofty 
 
THE ADIHONDACKS, 
 
 101 
 
 precipice, the diisliing torront, the s^ylviin lake 
 uud the boundless ocean of forest, combine to form 
 a scenery, which is unrivaled in its magnificence 
 and beauty. The \otaries and admirers of nature 
 will learn to visit these scenes, and will gaze on 
 them with wonder and delight. 
 
 Travellers have sometimes attempted to assimi- 
 late this region to the Highlands of Scotland, but 
 the resemblance to their magnificent features, in 
 Scottish scenery, is only in miniature. The bril- 
 liant work of Mr. Murray contains a passage from 
 the letter of an artist in Europe, most just and ap- 
 preciative of the Adirondacks. " Having travelled,'' 
 he says, *' over all Switzerland, and the Khine and 
 the Rhone region, 1 have not met with scenery 
 which, judged from a purely artistic point of view, 
 combined so many beauties in connection with such 
 grandeur, as the lakes, mountains and forests of the 
 Adirondack region present to the gazer's eye.'' 
 
 This wilderness is distinguished for the healthi- 
 ness of its clirtiate. There prevails in the atmos- 
 phere, which envelo^.s these mountains, a pureness, 
 an elasticity and vitality that impart health, and 
 afford an indescribable physical enjoyment in the 
 mechanical process of inspiration ; the lungs are 
 filled, and perform their functions without efl\3rt or 
 labor. In our explorations of the country, we have 
 met with repeated instances of individuals, who had 
 reached their forest homes, in advanced stages of 
 pulmonary affection, in whom the disease had been 
 arrested, and the sufferer restored to comparative 
 health. They uniformly imputed the change to 
 the influence of the atmosphere, and to the sooth- 
 ing and invigorating effect of the peculiar property 
 referred to. No invalid enter these solitudes without 
 experiencing upon his system this strengthening 
 
 ii 
 
 .11 
 
 \i 
 
 it 
 
103 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 
 ! ;> 
 
 
 
 ji 
 
 and renovating influence. The atmosphere can be 
 impregnated by no noxious miasmas, but is poured 
 down from the summits of these stately mountains, 
 fresh and pure, and life-giving as it comes from the 
 laboratory of nature. It is charged with an exuber- 
 ance of oxygen, and the liealth inspiring aroma of 
 the Balsam, the Hemlock and Pine, which impart 
 their delightful effects. 
 
 We do not contemplate a description of the geogra- 
 phical arrangement of this territory, nor to present 
 a specific account of its varied landmarks, but 
 merely propose, (as more attractive to the reader,) 
 to exhibit a comprehensive view of the region, that 
 its general aspects, and its peculiar objects of beauty 
 and interest may be understood. We shall also 
 briefly indicate the diflerent avenues by whicli the 
 Wilderness may be reached. 
 
 It is projier to observe that the boundaries of this 
 wild and primitive region are irregular, and not 
 embraced in exact and defined lines. At some 
 points, improvement has pierced deeply into its ter- 
 ritory, and at others, the forest and mountains pre- 
 serve their original domain in the midst of a culti- 
 vated district. In portions of Essex county the 
 Adirondack's penetrate deeply in the midst of a 
 highly cultivated region, often approaching Lake 
 Champlain, and in some instances only arrested by 
 its waters. Nothing connected with these scenes 
 so impresses the mind with amazement and incredu- 
 lity, as the fact, that thus closely environed by pro- 
 gress and culture, many sections of this wilderness 
 have probably never been pro^ssed by the foot of 
 civilized man, and that numerous mountains have 
 not yet been ascended. Another circumstance adds 
 anew feature to the strangeness of these views: the 
 evidences arc quite conclusive, that the interior 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 103 
 
 parts of this desert were as well known a century 
 ago, as they now are. It is certain that the wilder- 
 ness was habitually traversed, and probably by well 
 defined avenues during the Revolution. The track 
 of ancient pathways may still be traced, and the 
 mouldering vestiges of bridges and other labrics are 
 apparent far in the mazes of t'nese forests and 
 lakes. The evidences are varied and ample, that 
 this territory at an early period was the abode of a 
 large aboriginal population, attracted to it by the 
 immunity it afforded from hostile attacks, and by 
 the profusion of its game and fish. 
 
 The physical arrangement of the Wilderness is as 
 marked and striking as the whole Adirondack 
 rearion is fascinatino- and wonderful. The features 
 of plain, of lakes and mountains are seldom promis- 
 cuously blended, but each lineament is measurably 
 separate and distinct. In the southwesterly por- 
 tion lies the "John Brown Tract,"' the most repul- 
 sive and uninteresting of all the Wilderness. It com- 
 prises a district of about two hundred and fifty thou- 
 sand acres, of low table land. No lofty mountains 
 impart majesty to the scene ; few sparkling lakes 
 and beautiful streams gladden or relieve its desDla- 
 tion. Centrally, a long wide pleateau is pre-emi- 
 nently the region of fountains and ponds, of lakes 
 and rivers. In the eastern section, an infinitude of 
 mountains raise their rugged peaks tot^ie sky. 
 
104 
 
 THE ADIROXnArKS. 
 
 LAKES AND PONDS. 
 
 t, ., 
 
 We cannot attempt to arrange even a naked cata- 
 logue of the multiplicity of Ponds and Lakes that 
 characterize this region. We propose to notice 
 some of the larger and more interesting of the num- 
 ber, to convey a general idea of the wonderful 
 arrangement of the whole. The prominent lakes form 
 receptacles for the waters of the countless ponds and 
 smaller lakes that are grouped on tlie plateau, and 
 become themselves the reservoirs wliicli supply more 
 than one-half the rivers of the State. The (lod of 
 nature created this peculiar and secluded region a 
 vast watershed, and its value is incalculable, not 
 only that it pours forth from these solitudes streams 
 that adorn and fertilize the country, but from its 
 influence upon tlic commerce and industry of the 
 State. 
 
 These lakes, although they often nearly touch 
 each other, and mingle their waters, and the little 
 streams that feed them, in their involutions are so 
 mixed that they can scarcely be distinguished, are 
 yet arranged in distinct systems. It is stated that 
 the same pools discharge wrfters seeking in different 
 direction the Hudson and the St. Lawrence, which 
 reach the ocean more than a thousand miles 
 asunder. 
 
 The sources of the Moose and Beaver rivers, which 
 are the main tributaries of the Black river, that 
 
THE ADIRONDAOKS. 
 
 105 
 
 oiicli 
 
 1 little 
 
 ire so 
 
 |1, are 
 
 that 
 
 irent 
 
 ^hich 
 
 hiiles 
 
 rhicli 
 that 
 
 empties into Lake Ontario, are in the system of 
 which the Moose river chimin of lakes, eight in num- 
 ber, are the central and most important features. 
 The Beaver river rises in a series of smaller lakes 
 still more remote. 
 
 Kaquette Lake is the head of the system that 
 gives rise to the Kaquette river. It is separated 
 from the Moose lakes by a transit less than a mile 
 in length. Kaquette lake is the largest body of water 
 in the Wilderness, and presents a shore line of more 
 than ninety miles in length. It is elevated nearly 
 eighteen hundred feet above tide water. In its form 
 it is singularly irregular and distorted, projecting 
 deep indentations into the land on every side. To 
 this peculiarity of shape, its name (Kaquette — 
 Snow Shoe, Cactus,) is sometimes referred. East of 
 Kaquette lake stands Blue Mountain, with an alti- 
 tude of four thousand feet. At its base reposes the 
 Blue Mountain Lake, by common consent, from its 
 purity and loveliness, esteemed tlio pearl of all the 
 Wilderness water. This, discharging through Uta- 
 wana and Eagle Lakes, is a tributary of Kaquette 
 Lake, which empties into Forked Lake, and is separa- 
 ted from it by a carry of half a mile. Beach Lake also 
 discharges into Forked Lake. Kolling onward from 
 the latter, the Kaquette river, passing over various 
 rapids and descending Buttermilk Falls, caters 
 Long Lake, sixteen miles in length and about two 
 wide, with an elevation of nearly sixteen hundred 
 feet. This lake is much admired for its form and 
 purity, and the mountains by which it is environed. 
 Xear its southern extremity is Owl's Head, and to- 
 wards the North a view of Mt. Seward is presented. 
 Xear the head of Long Lake a thriving settlement 
 has sprung up. The river debouches from Long 
 Luke in a strong volume of water and rapid cur- 
 
 ii 
 
 it 
 
lOG 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 ^ 
 
 rent. A boui navigation of about thirty miles now 
 occurs, interrupted by a single impediment. The 
 Raquette Falls, a splendid cascade is situated about 
 seven miles below Long Lake, and has a portage of 
 one and a half miles. The river is constantly aug- 
 mented by the tribute of various streams along its 
 course. About seven miles below the falls, Stoney 
 Creek enters it on the right. The explorer, by 
 ascending this winding stream, and its tributary 
 ponds a few miles, and crossing the Indian Carry, 
 a mile wide, will reach the Upper Saranac Lake. 
 Following the Raf^uettc river from Stoney Creek, 
 about twenty miles, he will be borne on a rapid cur- 
 rent, gently and pleasantly through constantly 
 changing objects of interest to Tupper's Lake. 
 This sheet of water always excites the rapturous en- 
 comiums of the tourist. The Raquette pursues its 
 majestic course, through Raquette Pond, constantly 
 receiving accretions from lakes and ponds, and rolls 
 along the Wilderness a rapid and broad stream, ap- 
 proaching the Mohawk in magnitude, until it 
 reaches the abodes of civilization in St. Lawrence 
 Countv. This is one of the most beautiful, as it is 
 among the largest and most important streams, 
 already largely devoted to practical utility, that 
 have their birth place in these wilds. It is often and 
 agreeably descended in boats, but the tourist, satis- 
 fied with tracing its sinuosities, may return by water 
 along a different route, nearly to the point where we 
 began our voyage. He will ascend Tupper's Lake, 
 seven miles, and passing a short carry w'l) enter 
 Bog River; ascending this stream about three miles, 
 interrupted by two carrys, he reaches Round Pond, 
 and three and a half miles farther. Little Tupper 
 Lake. Traversing this seven miles, and by alter- 
 nate carries and navigation, through Rock, Bottle 
 
i^^ 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 lo: 
 
 ap- 
 
 and Carry Ponds, he will gain Little Forked Lake, 
 from whence, six miles by boat, will convey him 
 again to Forked Lake. Or, he may diverge at Rock 
 Pond to Salmon Lake, and by a succession of exhil- 
 crating changes of hike, stream and portage, he will 
 be returned to Raquette Lake. Such are the strange 
 and almost incomprehensible ramification and in- 
 terlocking of these water systems. 
 
 The Oswegatchie River flows from Cranberry 
 Lake, lying west of Tupper's Lake. A group of 
 lakes between that stream and the Raquette are the 
 sources of the Grass River. The St. Regis is next 
 east of the Raquette. The course of these streams 
 is nearly parallel, and separated from eacli other by 
 short portages. They are all tributaries of the St. 
 Lawrence. The St. Regis is, of all, the wildest and 
 most sequestered. It mainly rises in the St. Regis 
 lakes and ponds in tliat system, and closely 
 interlaces with the waters of the Saranac. It has 
 three distinct branches, led by countless small 
 affluents. Its whole course, until it bursts at 
 once into the cultivated territory of St. Lawrence 
 county, is buried in a dense, unbroken wilderness. 
 Civilized man has rarely followed its sinuous track. 
 
 The writer has been favored by a liighly intelli- 
 gent gentleman of Plattsburgh, (Dr. Bixby), with 
 the examination of the journal, illustrated by a 
 fine panoramic map, of a party who descended the 
 St. Regis a year or two since. It presents the only 
 accurate description of this most interesting river 
 that exists. The party started from St. Regis Pond 
 in their exploring descent, forcing the passage tedi- 
 ously through the overhanging bushes, and logs that 
 obstructed the little stream, and meeting frequent 
 carries produced by rapids. They were surprised 
 
 'I 
 
108 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 m 
 II 
 
 i? 
 
 I 
 
 to discover in a sequestered spot on the margin of 
 the stream a large colony of cranes, that seemed to 
 have sought the solitude for security and retire- 
 ment. Nine of the huge nests of these birds were 
 counted upon a single tree. Soon after leaving this 
 abode of the cranes, the party encountered a still 
 more interesting and unexpected object. This was 
 a colony of beavers. In the length of three miles, 
 they detected nine distinct and new-made dams. 
 The wily habits of these wonderful animals, for- 
 bade the intruders upon their seclusion seeing them, 
 but every appearance warranted the conviction that 
 it was an actual beaver settlement, occupied by liv- 
 ing animals. This is probably the only, or nearly 
 so, colony of beaver in the State, that has escaped 
 the cupidity of man. Immediately below the beaver 
 dams the stream receives a large increase from the 
 Bay Pond Creek, which draining a number of ponds 
 and lakes entered it from the east. The river was 
 rapidly augmented by the accession of other small 
 streams, and the navigation became less difficult. 
 The course of the stream was generally along high 
 and rugged banks, and through a primitive, dense 
 forest. This aspect, however, is occasionally varied 
 by the presence of broad natural savannahs, clothed 
 with thick, rank grasses. These are the favorite 
 resorts of myriads of deer. The soft earth was 
 tracked by their sharp, tiny hoofs, like a crowded 
 pasture by the tread of sheep. The explorers ob- 
 served the .absence of the timidity, that characterizes 
 the animal near the settlements and hunting- 
 grounds. The foot-prints of the wolf and panther 
 were here and there noticed. The fish were found in 
 the richest abundance. They found the forest formed 
 by a majestic growth of primeval trees. The ever- 
 greens, particularly the pines, had attained an 
 
 U 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIX. 
 
 109 
 
 tig- 
 
 ler 
 
 in 
 
 led 
 
 Lt- 
 Un 
 
 enormous magnitude, but had been undisturbed by 
 the enterprise of the lumberman. The river is 
 largely obstructed by rapids and cascades. Emerg- 
 ing from the Wilderness, the party reached a saw- 
 mill, the first evidence of civilization, six miles 
 above Parishville, and from that place proceeded 
 over a good road, nine miles to Potsdam, where 
 they found themselves in the region of railroads. 
 They computed tlie length of their voyage by the 
 meanderings of the river, at about one hundred 
 and twenty-five miles, and forty miles in a direct 
 line. Nine days were consumed in making the 
 passage. We have been minute in narrating this 
 experiment, believing that the enterprise will in- 
 flame the zeal of other explorers, by the novelty and 
 wildness of the adventure. The Salmon River, 
 which flows through Malone, springs from lakes 
 and morasses north of the sources of the St. Regis. 
 The system of waters which orir^i nates the south 
 branch of tlie Saranac River, has been rendered far 
 more familiar than the various systems we have 
 traced, by constant visits and explorations. The 
 stream itself passes directly from its great reservoir, 
 the Saranac Lakes, into an open country, and bear- 
 ing on its tide an immense motive power, unites 
 near Claybourgh with the north branch, forming 
 the Saranac proper, which, after a circuitous route, 
 enters Lake Champlain at Plattsburgh. Few streams 
 in the State have proved more valuable by their in- 
 fluence upon its industrial pursuits. It has created 
 an avenue by which countless saw-logs have been 
 transported to their marts, and it has been the in- 
 strumentality by which millions of wealth have 
 been produced to the country. The north branch 
 drains a cluster of lakes and ponds north of the 
 head waters of the St. Regis,--u view of the maps 
 
 M 
 
I:! 
 
 ■U 
 
 ■< 
 
 1"' 
 
 '9, 
 
 110 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 will indicate that the sources of the Sarauac almost 
 envelope the fountains of the 8t. Regis. 
 
 AVe have aimed to exhibit a general view of the 
 extraordinary nature and combinations of the wa- 
 ters of this plateau. We know of no more favor- 
 able method of impressing their singular aspects 
 upon our readers, or of illustrating the subject, 
 than by referring to an elaborate survey of that 
 region, made by Professor F. N. Benedict, a quarter 
 of a century ago, in connection with a scheme to 
 form an interior communication between Jjake 
 Champlain and the Black river Canal at Boonville. 
 
 The prominent idea in this scheme, originally 
 contemplated an artificial communication between 
 Port Kent on Lake Champlain, and BoonviUo, on 
 the Black river canal. The system of lakes in the 
 interior, indicate the course, and were designed to 
 form the route of this improvement. It appears 
 from the report of Professor Benedict, that nature 
 has formed a practical course for this: communication, 
 in the direct line from Purmort's rapids, a point on 
 the Saranac river on the boundary between Essex and 
 Clinton counties, to the Moose river, twenty-one 
 miles from Boonville, with which the contemplated 
 navigation must be connected by canal or railroad. 
 This route, starting from Purmort's rapids, passes 
 through the county of Essex, by the Saranac; 
 along the lower and upper Saranac lakes, the 
 Raquette river. Long, Forked and Raquette lakes, 
 and the intervening streams, to the series of Moose 
 river lakes, and thence down that stream to the 
 western termination. The track may be readily 
 traced on the very accurate maps of this region re- 
 cently published. 
 
 The following impressive facts are established by 
 these investigations. There exists. Professor Bene- 
 
lac; 
 
 the 
 kes, 
 oose 
 
 the 
 dily 
 
 re- 
 
 by 
 
 iiie- 
 
 THE ADIRONDACK^. 
 
 Ill 
 
 diet states, in this direct course, a navigation com- 
 petent to steamers, of fifty-six miles, and by small 
 boats of fifty-live miles further. A distance only 
 of seven and one-fourth miles occurs along this 
 route, partially or entirely interrupted by obstruc- 
 tions, which will require removing to, complete the 
 navigation the whole line of one hundred and 
 eighteen miles. The lateral' navigation, branching 
 from this main trunk, formed by the rivers and 
 lakes which are mingled with those above enumer- 
 ated, affords an additional communication, navi- 
 gable by steamers, of thirty-three miles, and by 
 small boats of ten tons burthen, of thirty-eight 
 miles more, with an intervening obstruction of only 
 one-half mile. The result shows the existence, in 
 that sequestered wilderness, of a navigation adap- 
 ted to steam boats, of eighty-nine miles, and to 
 small boats, of ninety-three miles, which is obstruc- 
 ted by natural impediments, interposing in differ- 
 ent localities,* and embracing in the aggregate, the 
 trifling distance of seven and three-quarter miles. 
 The total lengtii of the proposed improvement is 
 one hundred and ninety miles. The obstacles 
 which exist, chii^fly occur in low and marshy 
 ground, and may be readily surmounted. 
 
 The lateral branches of this navigation, included 
 in the survey of Prof. Benedict, would penetrate 
 deeply towards the west into the forest of St Law- 
 rence, Hamilton and Franklin countie;^, and on the 
 eastward along the western limits of Essex, almost 
 touching the vast iron masses of the Adirondacks, 
 and opening their resources to the wants and enter- 
 prise of the coal mines of the west. In reference to 
 this navigation, he says : "• Extensive lines of small 
 boat navigation, with very few and short interrup- 
 tions, traverse all considerable sections of the sur- 
 
 i 
 
•fl 
 
 -1 
 
 I ., 
 
 ! 
 
 112 
 
 f 
 
 I: 
 
 ■ F 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 face. The aggregate extent of these lines is proba- 
 bly no less than three hundred miles, all of which 
 could be rendered navigable for boats of fifty tons 
 burthen at comparatively trifling expense." 
 
 To examine this project in the Wilderness, or to 
 trace it on the map, will amuse and instruct the 
 reader, in the relations of a region that has no anal- 
 ogy, except possibly amid the head waters of the 
 Mississippi. The scheme now slumbers, but in the 
 exigencies of the future may be resumed. As an epi- 
 sode in the history of internal imj)rovemonts and 
 the varied projects which have agitated the })ublic 
 mind, it is worthy of perpetuation. 
 
 No man has enumerated the lakes, ponds and 
 streams of this region. They probably reach more 
 than a thousand. Thev are marked bv the same 
 characteristics Avhich almost universally prevail. 
 These waters, enveloi^ed by deep and glorious forests, 
 are delightfully cool, pure and transparent ; they are 
 thronged with fish, and their margins are the graz- 
 ing fields of myriads of deer. Other *•' beasts of the 
 woods'' lurk in the recesses of tiie Wilderness. The 
 sportsman, who seeks the deer, in the abundance 
 usually associated with the "Northern Wilderness,'' 
 must pursue them deeper in the forests than the 
 ordinary range of pleasure tourists. There he will 
 find the tales of books and travellers verified. A 
 volume, which a few years ago enlisted universal 
 attention, by its sparkling and piquant pages, was 
 afterwards denounced by a class of disappointed 
 readers, who either did not appreciate the spirit of 
 the work, or misunderstood its instructions. Instead 
 of upbraiding the author, they might have referred 
 their disappointment to personal and peculiar causes. 
 These embryo sportsmen, ignorant of the art, fished 
 and hunted without science. Their very numbers 
 
THE ADIUOXDACKS. 
 
 iia 
 
 :e(l 
 of 
 
 rod 
 3es. 
 
 and the clamor with which they pursued the sport, 
 had a tciidcnc}' to defeat its object, by ahirniing the 
 gunie, and driving l)oth tish and deer into more 
 serjuestored luiunts.* The summer of 'G!) was of an 
 exi '^])tional character, cokl and wet. The deer 
 found in tiie welling springs of the mountains, and 
 in their fresh glades an ample supply of water and 
 food, instead of resorting, as is usual to the lakes 
 and streams, and the savannahs along the rivers. 
 The hotels were thronged, so far beyond their ca- 
 pacities or expectations, that they were unable to 
 furnish ade(|uate accommodations and desired con- 
 veniences to their visitors, and the extortions prac- 
 ticed by the guides and boatmen, — of which 
 there was such earnest complaints, — was due to the 
 folly of sportsmen, who extravagantly bid upon each 
 other to secure their services. A natural reaction in 
 the popular enthusiasm for the Wilderness ensued, 
 and temporarily reduced the number of visitors. 
 
 No grounds for these complaints will hereafter 
 exist, that can be surmounted by care and attention. 
 Hotels and boarding-houses have been increased, and 
 much enlarged, and, Avith the guides, an uniform 
 and reasonable tariff of charges established. A care- 
 ful and more regular system will prevail to secure 
 the comfort and entertainment of guests. 
 
 This phiteau, at an elevation of fifteen hundred 
 to eighteen hundred feet, is not remarkable for the 
 wealth of a varied or copious Hora, although aqua- 
 tic and affiliated plants are often abundant and 
 
 *In the year referred to, such nascent sportsmen main- 
 tained a constant fusilade, in shooting at marlas, not aware 
 that they were driving the deer into the forests, or in cast- 
 ing the fly, as they believed, in the most artistic style, 
 would strike the water, by all their force with the rod, and 
 then wonder and complain that there were no fish. These 
 instances explain our allusion. 
 
II 
 
 ■Si 
 
 114 
 
 THE ADIRONDACK^. 
 
 luxuriant. The water lily, in localities, fills the 
 atrnosphere with its fragrance; and the raagnifioent 
 cardinal flower frequently lines the water like a glow- 
 ing fringe of flame. The "wild green wood" is always 
 an object of beauty and interest, but these wilds, 
 bearing their stately primeval forests, loaded with 
 parasitic plants, and draped by hanging mosses and 
 mantled by habiliments of every variegated hue of 
 green, are pre-eminently glorious. When in the 
 dying year, an observer looks down from a summit, 
 upon them, clothed in tlieir brilliant and gorgeous 
 autumnal robes, they are transformed into a scene 
 of almost unearthly splendor and beauty. The 
 huge evergreens tower fur above their deciduous 
 companions of the woods. 
 
 Two distinct species of the trout, in popular 
 language designated the lake and the brook trout, 
 prevail in the lakes and streams of the interior. 
 These arc supposed to ramify into a number of va- 
 rieties. They differ very perceptibly in color and 
 appearance, and the distinctions which science 
 detects, are very clear and marked. The color of 
 the flesh, which is either red or white in both spe- 
 cies, is not characteristic of either, but seems to be 
 an individual peculiarity. The lake trout, fierce 
 and voracious in its habits, is the tyrant of the 
 waters. It attains a very great size, and specimens 
 have occasionally been taken, which weighed fifty 
 pounds. These are rare, and fish of ten to twenty 
 pounds are deemed choice sport. The brook trout 
 seldom exceeds three pounds. The former spawn 
 froni the l*5th to the 25th of October, and the brook 
 trout about ten days earlier. The two species run 
 in separate schools, and although found associated, 
 they appear not to amalgamate. The brook trout 
 frequents the streams, and near the entrances and 
 
-«^ 
 
 THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 115 
 
 irce 
 the 
 lens 
 
 ifty 
 
 outlets of the lakes. The fry of both remain on the 
 spawning ground until the ensuing spring. Not- 
 withstanding the avidity with which these fish are 
 pursued, their marvellous fecundity preserves them 
 from apparent diminution in tiiese lakes. The ac- 
 quaintance with men, however, renders them shy, 
 and thus is enhanced the pleasure and excitement 
 of the sport, by exciting additional skill and perse- 
 verence ior their capture. Another fish which is 
 generally regarded as a distinct species of the trout, 
 appears in these waters late in the fall. It is quite 
 dissimilar in form and color, never attains a great 
 weight, and unlike the others, spawns in the spring. 
 The White or Frost fish appears about the 1st of 
 November, near the outlets of the lakes or on shal- 
 lows, in immense shoals. They never exceed four 
 pounds, and are covered by large scales, which cleave 
 from the body on the slightest pressure. They 
 refuse the hook, however baited, but are taken in 
 large quantities l)y tlie net or grapple, and afford 
 excellent sport. 
 
 Our readers are indebted for the following highly 
 interesting account of trout fishing, to the brilliant 
 pen of a cultivated gentleman and keen sportsman, 
 Mr. Oeorge 8. Potter, of Keeseville: 
 
 TROUT FISHING 
 
 Among the Adirondacks. 
 
 '' A suit of velveteens, soft hat, top boots, a lot of 
 fancifully got up fishing rods, a willow basket, a 
 plethoric-looking morocco pocket-book, containing 
 flies, gut, lines and other paraphernalia pertaining 
 to the piscatorial art : such, varied according to the 
 
116 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 I-. 
 
 taste or nieaus of the wearer, is the costume and 
 outfit of the amateur fisherman, as he may be seen 
 almost every day, during the season, at the resorts 
 where pleasure seekers most do congregate among 
 the lakes and streams shut in by the Adirondack 
 range. And these are the vandals who deplete the 
 waters of their finny wealth, in consequence of 
 which game laws are enacted ? Not exactly. 
 
 " If the kindly landlords of the many comforta- 
 ble hotels ill these wilds, were obliged to depend on 
 these superbly equipped gentlemen to supply their 
 tables with the speckled beauties, most of their 
 guests would depart minus the satisfaction of hav- 
 ing made a ^^ sq2iare ryicaJ-' of fresh trout. These 
 establishments keep an organized corps of men in 
 their employ, who are thorough woodsmen, and 
 practical fishermen. 
 
 "The season commences immediately after ice has 
 left the streams and lakes and continues until navi- 
 gation is again impeded by ice in the later autumn. 
 The first sport in order is trolUng — you (the visi- 
 tor) are supplied by mine host with a boat and 
 boatman, and also with the necessary fishing tackle, 
 in case you have not supplied yourself: the boat- 
 man catches, or takes from tlie supply in the tank 
 (kept for the purpose) a certain number of " slii- 
 ners'" or ^' suckerSf'" throQ to five inches in length, 
 wraps them in green leaves or grass, or puts them in 
 a bucket with ice, to keep them fresh, and places 
 them in the bow of his boat within reach of his 
 hand; you take the stern seat with your trolling 
 rod in liand, the boatman shoves off his light craft, 
 takes his oars and pulls steady and strong until he 
 reaches the fishing ground ; when he i)ause8 a mo- 
 ment and tells you to put on a minnow {tnimii/f he 
 calls it) and let go your line. 
 
 t 
 a 
 
THE ADIHONDACKS. 
 
 117 
 
 ce has 
 navi- 
 umn. 
 Y isl- 
 and 
 ackle, 
 boat- 
 tank 
 "sJii- 
 ngth, 
 cm in 
 ilaces 
 lof his 
 oiling 
 cratt, 
 til he 
 a mo- 
 
 " Your rod is furnished with a reel containing sixty 
 to one hundred and fifty yards of fine braided silk or 
 cable laid linen line, on the end of which is looped 
 the half yard of gimp carrying the gang of hooks ; 
 above which are the sinkers (if any sire needed) and 
 the rudder of lead or zinc to prevent the twisting of 
 the line. The fishing grounds at this early season 
 are near shore, about rocky islands, or the edge of 
 sunken reefs. When quite ready for sport the boat- 
 man pulls raj)idly until sufficient line is paid out, 
 then quite slowly. 
 
 " The greedy trout is attracted by the bright re- 
 volving bait, and strikes sharp for it. Give a short 
 spring on your rod to Jtook your fish, then reel in 
 slow and steady, keeping the line always taut and 
 relieved by the spring of the rod. If a large laker 
 seeks your acquaintance, you may have to give him 
 line ; when that occurs be sure he gets no slacky 
 and 7iever use a stoj) reel ; your thumb held on the 
 reel is the only safe stop or drag. If the trout is 
 small and pe ceable you can reel him in rapidly and 
 lift him into the boat by the (/im]) ; but if large 
 and gamey, you will need patience, coolness, and a 
 gaff or landing net. 
 
 " As the season advances and the water becomes 
 warm in the shallows, the trout seek the cool depths. 
 Then you must troll a longer line, row at a snail's 
 pace, and put on sinkers to carry your bait near the 
 bottom. The early spring is undoubtedly the hest 
 season for trolling, but trout are caught by experts 
 in that manner, every week while the water is free 
 from ice. 
 
 " Another method practiced, and that by which 
 the largest weight of fish is taken, is called " hioy 
 fishinf/.^' A stone or anchor is attached by a rope to 
 a stick of dry wood, then sunk in thirty to sixty 
 
118 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 I, it 
 
 M 
 
 feet of water, the billet of wood marking the spot ; 
 bait (small fish cut up) is scattered about it to 
 attract the trout, and after a sufficient time has 
 elapsed, (twelve hours or more,) the fisherman 
 attaches his bow rope to the buoy stick and with a 
 line in each hand sits and bohj^. It is not exciting 
 sport, but generally pai/s, and the position is favor- 
 ble to contemplation. Neither of tlie methods above 
 described can be called artistic, and in fact flt/ fisli- 
 ing for trout is the only one that has any just claim 
 to that title. The limits of tliis article forbid any 
 long description of this delightfully inspiring sport, 
 nor is it necessary. Let the seeker after truth and 
 pleasure supply himself with a copy of dear old 
 Izaak Walton, "a well of pure English undetiled," 
 and if he has a genuine love for nature and artistic 
 sport, he will rise from the perusal of its i)ages a 
 wiser and a better man. 
 
 '"The waters adapted to the tly-fisher's art in this 
 region are as varied as extensive, and tlie zest for 
 sport is constantly kept alive by the changing char- 
 acter of the pastime and the ever beautiful, ever 
 shifting panorama nature spreads before the admir- 
 ing visitor. The impression is general that fishing 
 for trout with the artificial fly, can only be success- 
 fully practiced during a very limited portion of the 
 year; this is a mistake; the genuine speckled trout 
 have been killed in these waters by means of the ar- 
 tificial fly every month in the year. Still the trout 
 will not always rise to the fly, be it ever so daintily 
 dropped above him, even during the best of the sea- 
 son, and in the most densely populated pool ; and 
 the camper-out who takes a proper pride in furnish- 
 ing his bark table witli the *' vin du pays," must 
 not be above using the angle warm, grub, grass-hop- 
 per, small live shiner, or frog, Some one of these 
 
THE ADIRONDACK^. 
 
 110 
 
 baits is sure to captivate at some hour duriug the 
 twenty-four. 
 
 " There are other methods employed by fjveedy 
 briganch'in defiance of law and not worthy the study 
 of the true sportsman, among which are seineinfj, 
 using gill- nets, spearing and grappling on the 
 spawning beds, &c. It is matter of great astonish- 
 ment as well as regret, that so many whose 2^c(^ufii- 
 ary interest it is to preserve the game in these for- 
 ests and waters, should countenance "uch barbarous 
 slaughter." 
 
 " For ways that are dark, 
 And for tricks that are vain, 
 This heathen brigand is peculiar ; 
 Which the same 
 I am free to maintain." 
 
 Notwithstanding the anthema of our sparkling 
 correspondent, we venture to notice one of the 
 methods of fishing which he denounces. 
 
 Fishing by torch-liglit thoroughly enlists the 
 enthusiasm and energies of the fisherman. In a 
 calm night, (and if dark more certain the success), 
 the boat impelled by a single paddle, glides silently 
 through the water, bearing an iron jack at the bow, 
 loaded with liglit wood, which emits a briglit flame, 
 shedding an illumination far in advance. The 
 spearsman, with poised weapon, stands behind the 
 light, with full opportunity of seeing tlie fish, that 
 sleeping quietly, or attracted by the gleaming of the 
 fire, lies unconscious of danger, and is easily ap- 
 proached and killed Every part of Lake Cliam- 
 plain, in which the practice is largely pursued, 
 adapted to this sport, presents at the season a bril- 
 liant and animated aspect, and glowing with hun- 
 dred of these fires. 
 
 The prevalence of tlie mos(puto, bhick fly and 
 
 I 
 
si 
 
 i 
 
 I K 
 
 
 i 
 
 li n 
 
 120 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 midget, in their season, is an exquisite torment, that 
 largely detracts from the enjoyment of the woods. 
 These pests cannot wholly be evaded, but the evil 
 may be vastly mitigated. This result is effected by 
 securing judicious positions, both on land and water, 
 a proper location of rooms, and the use of various 
 applications. The hotel keepers and guides are 
 familiar with these devices, and will impart them 
 to the visitor. 
 
 Formerly a pleasant incident often relieved the 
 dreariness and solitude of the scene in the winter sea- 
 son. The ice disappears, in a greater or less extent, 
 from the outlets after the lakes are completely frozen 
 over. Before their haunts were disturbed by man's 
 intrusion, large flocks of Swans were wont to con- 
 gregate in these openings, and continue there. The 
 instinct that directs them to these cold and solitary 
 retreats, cannot well be explained. 
 
 The head waters of the Hudson and of its great 
 tributary, alone remain to be noticed. Several of 
 the largest confluents of the Mohawk are interlaced 
 with the Moose river and Raquette systems. The 
 head waters of the Hudson proper, lie chiefly among 
 the mountains. Its extreme western fountains are 
 situated within a short distance of Long Lake, and 
 their outlet runs nearly parallel to Cold river, a 
 tributary of the Raquette, which has its source in 
 the Preston Ponds, lying up on the Adirondacks, 
 between Mt. Seward and Mt. Henderson. The trib- 
 utaries of the Hudson traverse nearly every section 
 of the south-western part of Essex county. The 
 miniature lakes and ponds, which repose in almost 
 every valley among the Adirondacks, and form the 
 head springs of these streams, possess indescribable 
 romance and beauty. Now they are embraced and 
 hidden by dense and unbroken forests, and now 
 
 I 
 
THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 121 
 
 b- 
 ou 
 he 
 
 ost 
 
 encompassed by lofty mountains wliose inaccessible 
 precipices descend into tlieir ^vaters by a nearly 
 vertical wall, and now slumbering in the bosom of 
 some lovely and picturesque nook, tlieir mirrored 
 surface, reflecting this varied scenery, is alone brok- 
 en by the leaping of a trout, the gambols of a deer, 
 or, at far intervals, by the oar oftlie solitary hunter. 
 These gentle and subduing beauties of nature, com- 
 bined with the awe-imposing and thrilling grandeur 
 of the mountain spectacles, with the pure, invig- 
 orating and health-inspiring air which envelopes 
 them, must render these solitudes among the most 
 desirable resorts, to the philoso])her, the invalid and 
 the tourist of pleasure. 
 
 liich Lake, tlie Cludn Lakes, Henderson, a beau- 
 tiful sheet of water, that almost reaches the foot of 
 Panther Mountain, and Sautanine, discharges into 
 Lake Sanford, at the site of the Adirondack village. 
 The waters unite to form one of the im})ortant 
 branches of the Hudson. The Opalescent Kiver is 
 one of the most interesting tributaries to this 
 stream. Lake Avalanclie is its hio'hest fountain. 
 
 This lake is situated two thousand feet above the 
 level of the Hudson, and is probably the most ele- 
 vated body of water in the State. A small green 
 lizard is the only animal capable of sustaining life 
 in its intense coldness. This lake has recently been 
 almost extinguished by a fresh avalanche that de- 
 scended into its bosom. It empties into Lake Col- 
 den, and from that source the Ojialescent Kiver is 
 discharged into tlie Hudson. The bed of this 
 sti'eam, which derives its name from the circum- 
 stance, abounds with the Opalescent feldspar, 
 and when the sun shines upon a cascade through 
 the clear water, the whole rock glows with the 
 effulgence of the brilliant gem. This beautiful 
 
 6 
 
n 
 
 123 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 M 
 
 'I 
 
 I 
 
 mineral, the Labrodite, was originally brought 
 from Labrador by the Missionaries, and was rare 
 and valuable. The hyperstene rock of this region 
 is copiously supplied with it, and a search for the 
 stone will amaze and interest the tourist. The 
 writer has picked up fine specimens in the highway 
 at the Adirondack works. 
 
 Boreas Pond, which we have seen often mingles 
 with the waters of the Au Sable, is the source of the 
 Boreas River, another important branch of the 
 Hudson. The curious student of animal habits 
 will derive great gratification from visiting on the 
 table land, where these ponds are situated, the 
 remarkable relics of a beaver settlement. Their in- 
 numerable houses were built on about an acre of 
 land, as thickly as they ^ould stand. They have 
 been long extinct, and the site of their wonderful 
 works is occupied by a beautiful grove of tamaracs. 
 (0. S. Phelps). Otters are occasionally found on 
 these waters. 
 
 Schrooii Lake, on the east, forms the reservoir 
 to the waters of the upper Hudson. The lake is 
 ten miles long, but narrow, and is distinguished for 
 its quiet and romantic beauty. A high and precip- 
 itous shore encloses it on the east, and on the west 
 a cultivated and charming territory spreads its fer- 
 tile fields down to the very brink. 
 
 Paradox lake is situated in the same valley, and 
 separated from Schroon lake by a drift of alluvial, 
 of apparently modern formation. Paradox lake 
 occupies the basin of hills that environ it in a 
 gentle ascent, except the narrow passage at its out- 
 let, which is a confluent of the Schroon river, and 
 nearly on a level with it. The river, swollen by the 
 mountain torrents, often rises higher than the lake, 
 and pours its waters into the basin, presenting the 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 123 
 
 paradoxical appearance of a stream rushing back 
 upon its fountain head. The lake derives, from 
 this singular fact, its unique but not inappropriate 
 name. Directly east of Schroon lake, and elevated 
 above it several liundred feet, lies lake Pliaraoh, an 
 important body of water, surrounded by a group of 
 dark and gloomy mountains. In this vicinity clus- 
 ter numerous ponds, the fountain heads of valuable 
 streams. 
 
 •••» 
 
 MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Two marked characteristics of the Adirondacks 
 will engage the attention ot the observer ; the im- 
 mensity of their numbers, and their wild and irreg- 
 ular formation. They are literally countless. A 
 gentleman of unusual practical sagacity, ( Mr. Al- 
 mon Thomas, of Plattsburgh), informed the writer, 
 that he attempted to count them from the top of 
 Tahawas, by an original expedient. Placing a stick 
 in front of his eye, he ran an immaginary line along 
 the peaks to the horizon, then moving the stick, 
 projected a similar line. After roughly counting 
 the mountains embraced within this section, he 
 repeated the attempt, but after reaching, in a small 
 area, the number of two hundred, he abandoned 
 the experiment as utterly impracticable. They are 
 not disposed in sierras or systematic chains, nor 
 distinctively in regular groups, but appear as if 
 hurled together in indiscriminate masses by Al- 
 mighty power, or projected from the foundations of 
 the earth by the convulsions of nature. In some 
 portions they stand so compactly that their bases 
 almost start from each other. 
 
124 
 
 THE ADIKONDACKS. 
 
 In otlior sections they are more separate and soli- 
 tiry. From the summit of Mt. Marcy, the broadest 
 and most iH.'rfect survey of tlic Adirontlacks may be 
 obtained. No imaginative mind looks from that 
 elevation, down upon the scene, witiiout receiving 
 the idea of an ocean of mountain peaks, lifting up 
 their crests upon a billowy sea. 
 
 The slopes of the Adirondacks are covered nearly 
 to their summits by thick forest, chiefly Balsams and 
 Spruce, with a mingling of other trees. The poeti- 
 cal Rowan, or Mountain Ash, is, in places, abun- 
 dant. The Balsam is a most graceful and hardy 
 tree, and flourishes at an altitude where other veg- 
 etation disappears. As the height incicases, the 
 Balsam becomes more and more dwarfed, but main- 
 tains the aspect and form of the perfect tree in 
 miniature. The mosses tire another beautiful fea- 
 tuic of these mountains. The foot often sinks 
 ankle deep in the rich vegetation that mantles the 
 rocks in its soft and delicate hues, like a velvety 
 carpet. 
 
 We have no space to describe the detaclied and 
 broken ranges of the Adirondacks that distinguish 
 other sections, but must l)e limited to those moun- 
 tains which are within the scope of our review. 
 
 Mount Marcy, the monarch of these wilds, tow- 
 ers above the surrounding pinnacles, in a beautiful 
 peak, and in one view, in nearly an acute apex. 
 Ascending above every contiguous object, and 
 piercing with this striking formation far upward, 
 no one can contemplate it without recognizing the 
 force and appropriateness of its name, in the ener- 
 getic aiul beautiful nomenclature of the Indians. 
 They called the towering mountain projecting its 
 acute top toward the heavens, Tahawas, Tlie Cloud- 
 SpJitter. The height of this mountain is live thou- 
 
THE ADIKONDACKS. 
 
 125 
 
 sand four liiindred and sixty-seven feet above tide 
 water. Mt. Marcy is ascended from various poiuts. 
 We have indicated several, and will add, tliat from 
 the Adirondack works, the distance to the summit is 
 about seven miles. A spring wells up on the very 
 pinnacle, near a rude monument of rough stone, 
 erected by Mr. Henderson, whose tragic death soon 
 after, not f\ir from the base of the mountain, 
 excited so profound a sensation.* Geologists will 
 examine with interest large boulders lying detached 
 near the to}), and which apparently never had any 
 connection with tlie rock of the mountain. 
 
 Our readers would derive small gratification from 
 a minute description of all, even the loftiest peaks, 
 which may be traced from the top of Tahawas. 
 Mt. McMartin, contiguous to it, falls a little below 
 Mt. Marcy in height, but perhaps surpasses it in 
 massive and imposing magnificence, and exhibits a 
 compact and ponderous structure. Bartlet moun- 
 tain is in the north, impending over the Au Sable 
 Ponds, and marked by its sharp cone. The Gothic 
 ascends in three naked, but less lofty peaks, in the 
 south-east. In the south-west, appears the Sky- 
 light, with its clear and graceful, round cone, gen- 
 erally pronounced the most beautiful of all the 
 Adirondacks. In the eastern direction, is the Giant 
 of the valley, Dix peak, Vial, Nipple Top, and 
 numerous other peaks, which in a different region, 
 would be regarded as lofty pinnacles. Away in the 
 distance, near Long Pond, will be observed Mt. 
 Goodenow, and directly south of this, Mt. Joseph, 
 
 * He was almost instantly killed by the accidental dis- 
 cbarge of a pistol, while exploring the forest with a single 
 guide and little son. A simple, though elegant monument, 
 has been raised to his memory, by his children, at Calamity 
 Pond, the scene of the catastrophe. It was executed abroad, 
 and borne by manual power to the secluded spot. 
 
^ 
 
 H 
 
 ' 
 
 I 
 
 
 ■i 
 
 12G 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 
 which exhibits decided evidences of an extinct volca- 
 no, and bears on its very apex, a lake almost fathom- 
 less. Far to the north-west tower the peaks of 
 Mt. Seward, more than four thousand feet in height. 
 The region that surrounds and spreads about the 
 base of this mountain, is far tlie most desolate and 
 savage of any portion of tiie Adirondacks, and has 
 been rarely explored. It was known to the Indians 
 as, Caugh-sa-va-geh, the *• Dismal Wilderness." 
 
 A lofty range known as the Keene mountains, 
 presents a peculiar aspect ; dark, broken and frown- 
 ing. The AVhite Face mountain, in ihe nuijestic 
 Indian dialect Waho-partenie, an eminence of about 
 five thousand feet, stands remote from the other 
 groups, and occujnes the northern extremity of the 
 huge mountain belt that encircles tiie toAvn of 
 Korth Elba. This peak, from its rare and admira- 
 ble proportions, its bald summit, solitary isolation, 
 and the vast pre-eminence of its height aboA " sur- 
 rounding objects, is a beautiful and conspicuous 
 land-mark, over a wide horizon. It is perhaps the 
 most impressive and imposing of all the Adiron- 
 dacks. A few years since it presented a spectacle 
 of unequalled sublimity. In the heat and drought 
 of midsummer, the combustible materials upon its 
 summit were fired by accident or design, and dur- 
 ing one whole night the conflagration raged, exhib- 
 iting to the gaze of hundreds, almost the splendor 
 and awfulness of a volcanic eruption in iis wild 
 vehemence. A convenient road* has been construc- 
 
 *The proprietor of the " White Face Mountain House " 
 with an enterprise that claims remuneration, ha- also erec- 
 ted near the top of the mountain, a block-house, furnished 
 with the necessary appliances to secure the comfort, and 
 capable of affording sleeping accomodations for ^ respectable 
 number of visitors. 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 127 
 
 ted to the summit of the mountain, from which a 
 magnificent view is commanded over a wide expanse 
 of territory. The peculiar isolated position of this 
 mountain, affords a prospect only limited by the 
 power of vision. Nearly every peak of the Adiron- 
 dacks spread around it; the long range of the 
 Green Mountains is visible, and it is asserted that 
 beyond, faint glimpses of the shadowy tops of the 
 White Mountains may at times be seen; Lake 
 Champlain glows centrally in the splendid pano- 
 rama, and a rich and cultivated district stretches 
 between, and softens the scene. In an other direc- 
 tion the glimmering thread of the St. Lawrence is 
 traced along the horizon, and at the north, the 
 spires of Montreal may be discerned. It is said, 
 that more than thirty lakes and ponds, some glit- 
 tering in the forests, and others reposing on the 
 mountains, may be counted from the summit of 
 White Face. 
 
 This mountain tract has been but partially explor- 
 ed. ALountains have not been ascended. Much of 
 its aspects are yet unknown. It possibly remains to 
 daring and energetic adventurers to ascend peaks 
 loftier than any yet measured ; to penetrate deeper 
 and more solemn gorges than the Indian Pass, and 
 to discover brighter lakes, and more dashing cas- 
 cades than have yet been revealed. The exceeding 
 purity and transparency of these mountain waters 
 excite the surprise and admiration of every observer. 
 The gentleman to whose intelligent observation we 
 have been so much indebted, illustrates this peculi- 
 arity by relating his own impression. In looking 
 at the bed of a stream or lake, he could with difficul- 
 ty realize the presence of water. It seemed as if no 
 fluid denser than air, interrupted his vision. The 
 capricious modes of Nature in these wilds are exhib- 
 
128 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 ited by another fact: one pool, will present a clear 
 blue tint, in its water, while another closely contig- 
 uous, discloses a decided green coloring. 
 
 »•> ♦ ■» 
 
 ■^■■* ^94 
 
 Avenues to the Wilderness. 
 
 ■It., 
 
 The Adirondack region may be approached in 
 various directions, and by routes which have now 
 generally been rendered easy and accessible. We 
 propose to glance at each of them, but shall present 
 the most specific directions, in reference to those 
 connected intimately with the Chaniplaiii Valley. 
 If the reader will recall our description of the net 
 work of rivers and lakes, which are so strangely 
 interlaced in the water systems of the Wilderness, 
 he will perceive that every locality is readily ap- 
 proached by water, and the surmountings of the 
 slight carries or portages. Each hotel or stopping 
 place is eq,sily accessible from the others by this 
 channel. Visits may be thus interchanged or resi- 
 dences shifted with the greatest facility. 
 
 Potsdam route by stages, wagons and navigation 
 to liock's place, at the foot of Raquette Pond, is 
 represented to be not particularly desirable or at- 
 tractive. 
 
 The Malone and Chateau.o-ay routes we have 
 already mentioned. Malone is lifty miles from 
 Hough's, and fifty-five from Martin's. 
 
 Plattsburgh afl^brds one of the prominent, most 
 direct and eligible avenues into the Wilderness. If 
 desired, carriages can at all times be obtained to 
 convey tourists across the country to the lakes, over 
 
I 
 

 i^B^' 
 
 i 
 
 J 
 
 ; 
 
 i t 
 
 n t: 
 
 t 
 
 St. Begis House, (PatQ Smith's,) St. Regis Lake. 
 
THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 129 
 
 ake. 
 
 good roads. The usual and most agreeable route, is 
 by the Whitehall and Plattsbur^^h Railroad, to the 
 Point of Rocks, tweniy miles. At tliis station, lines 
 of four-horse coaches regularly meet the trains, 
 and convey passengers to 8t. Regis or Saranac Lakes. 
 The route is by plank road, running through Au 
 Sable Forks and Black Brook, where one of the 
 heaviest branches of J. & J. Rogers* Iron Company 
 is established, to Franklin Falls, (twenty miles). 
 Soon after leaving Au Sable Forks, the tourist will 
 observe on the right, a hill dotted by cabins, and 
 honey-combed by excavations. This is the famous 
 Palmer ore bed, a source of immense Avealth, and 
 should be visited by the curious. A good hotel will 
 be found at Franklin Falls. At Bloomingdale, 
 eight miles beyond, the road to different points on 
 the lake, separate. (Titus' Hotel). To Paul Smith's 
 is eleven miles, to Hough's, thirteen miles, and to 
 Martin's, eight miles. 
 
 Before noticing the various stopping places to 
 which this route leads, we will briefly trace another 
 mode of access to the Wilderness from Plattsbnrgh. 
 Before the construction of the railroad it was Ini'gely 
 used, but is now nearly abandoned. It follows up 
 the Saranac vallev alons: the i)lank road, bv a do- 
 lightful drive, nineteen miles to Saranac Foi-ks, and 
 then diverges, pursuing the two branches over bad 
 roads. By the north branch it i)asses Peterborough, 
 a small hamlet, and thence ten miles, to Hunters 
 Home, a pleasant resort for sportsmen, kei:t by L. 
 Smith, aiul situated upon this stream. Thence to 
 Wardner's on Rainbow Lake, nine miles, and 
 thence to Pnul Smith's, seven miles. From Hun- 
 ters' Home to Merrillsville, one mile ; Vermont- 
 ville, five miles; Bloomingdale, three miles, — 
 nine miles. 
 
130 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 
 t 
 
 By the south branch, from the Forks to Silver 
 Lake, four miles ; Union Fulls, foui miles ; Frank- 
 lin Falls, eight miles. The distance from Franklin 
 Falls to Paul Smith's establishment (the St. Regis 
 House), is nineteen miles, over a comfortable 
 road. This hotel which lias secured a high reputa- 
 tion is situated at the foot of the lower St. Regis 
 lake, on the head waters of the St Regis river, and 
 in the vicinity of excellent hunting and fishing 
 grounds. The place is in the region of a multitude 
 of lakes, streams and ponds, and in the vicinity of 
 fine scenery. The house, which is calculated for 
 the accommodation of one hundred and fifty guests,, 
 is pleasantly located in the midst of a pine grove, 
 and surrounded by a dense forest. (See Appendix.) 
 
 Two portages separate the St. Regis from the 
 Saranac lakes : one, of one and a quarter mile, and 
 the other an eighth of a mile, at each horses are 
 always kept for the convenience of parties. 
 
 The road from Franklin Falls to the Saranac 
 lakes runs parallel, and generally on the margin of 
 the Saranac river, a distance of sixteen miles, and 
 is a peculiarly pleasant route. Baker's, situated on 
 the river two miles below the lakes, is a good house^ 
 pleasantly situated, and is the first of the resorts 
 the tourist will reach. Milote Baker is the pioneer 
 in this enterprize, and established his house at an 
 early day, and in advance of any other, for the re- 
 ception of visitors to the lakes, but in changes of 
 circumstance, she has been placed rather outside the 
 of the woods, and yet is accessible to them. Here 
 is a telegraph office. All the stages connected with 
 Saranac Lake stop at this house, Avhere teams are 
 always furnished in any direction. Blood's Hotel 
 stands on the Saranac river, one mile from the 
 
 
ii^: 
 
 :l' 
 
 Martinis Hotel, Saranao Lake. 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 131 
 
 lake. It has beeii much enlarged, and is conve- 
 niently situated on the highway. 
 
 Martin's Hotel, a well known anu favorite resort 
 of sportsmen and tourists, is agreeably situated on 
 the banks of the lower Saranac. It is favorably 
 located for hunting and fishing; is easy of access and 
 in a central position, for departure to all the inte- 
 rior lakes and rivers, and to the hunting and fish- 
 ing grounds. The house has been greatly increased 
 in its capacity, and can accommodate one hundred 
 and fifty persons. The tables of most of these 
 houses are not only supplied with the products of 
 the Wilderness, but are furnished with many luxu- 
 ries of the city markets. It is claimed that this 
 hotel is a desirable location for tlie residence of fam- 
 ilies in the summer months. Carriages and horses 
 are provided for the accommodation of patrons. A 
 telegraph is connected with this house. Baker and 
 Smith's Hotels, and is available by the other houses. 
 (See Appendix). 
 
 Bartlett's Hotel is situated twelve miles above 
 Martin's, and stands upon the portage between 
 Bound Lake and the upper Saranac. Transporta- 
 tion from Martin's is by boats. This hotel has 
 been for some years familiar to tourists, and well 
 esteemed. Telegraph despatches are forwarded to 
 the office at Martin's. (See Appendix). 
 
 At the foot of Big Tupper Lake, M. M. Moody 
 has a boarding house for the reception of about fifty 
 guests, in the midst of good fishing and hunting. 
 (P. 0. Saranac Lake). (Sec Appendix). Mr. Graves' 
 Lodge stands near the head of the same lake. This 
 cottage is well and favorably known. (See Ap.) 
 
 Hough's Hotel, now in process of extension, is 
 situated at the head of the Upper Saranac, and 
 may be reached by a road from Bloomingdale, or 
 by water from Smith's, and a carry of two miles, 
 
132 
 
 THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 r 
 
 ! 
 
 i: » 
 
 il 
 
 between Clear Pond and 8t. Regis Lake, and another 
 Ironi the ontlet of Clear Pond to Saranac Lake. 
 The honse is adapted to the accommodation of 
 seventy -five or one hundred guests.. It is perhaps 
 the linest location in reference to mountain scenerv 
 on tlie lakes, and is surrounded by fine sporting 
 grounds. Hough supplies guides, boats and stores. 
 Baker, Martin, Smith and Bartlett (and proba- 
 bly all the other hotels, are prepared to perform the 
 same service) advertise to supply parties going into 
 the Wilderness with boats, guides, tents, equipages 
 and all the essentials of camp life, with the necessa- 
 ry stores and provisions. Every individual, whether 
 male or female, should carry with them a costume 
 adapted to the exposure and incidents which they 
 may encounter. The clothing should be warm and 
 stout. A rubber blanket renders the tourist quite 
 independent of the caprices of the weather. The 
 conveniences supplied by the hotels are invaluable 
 when one clings to the watercourses, and indispen- 
 sable if he does not rely on his own resources. But 
 the earnest explorer and the ardent sportsman will 
 prefer, with a guide bearing the absolute necessaries, 
 to plunge directly into the forest. If a permanent 
 abode is desired, select a location, and erect a cabin; 
 but if a rambling life is to be adopted, and the can- 
 opy of trees is inadequte, a bower can be extempo- 
 rized in a few minutes. In storms, an incision 
 above and below of the requisite width, around a bal- 
 sam, and a longitudinal slit, will furnish in a bark 
 shingle the necessary material for constructing a 
 hut beneath the shelter of a rock, that will be im- 
 pervious to the wind and rain. With a roaring fire 
 in front, reposing upon a couch of hemlocks, no 
 matter how drenched with moisture, he may bid 
 defiance to the elements, and his only discomfort 
 
 
• 
 
 
 Bartlett's Hotel, Saranao Lake. 
 

THE ADIR0XI)A(K6. 
 
 133 
 
 will be felt in the extreme warmth of his retreat. 
 No one ever contracted a cold in sleeping upon this 
 couch. The pure air of the woods, laded with the 
 aroma of the balsam, hemlock and pine, will 
 impart elasticity and vigor to his system. 
 
 Another route to the Saranac lakes, which is 
 rapidly growing in public favor, requires a brief 
 notice. It diverges from the plank road at Au 
 Sable Forks, and passing through the Wilmington 
 Notch, which we have described as one of the most 
 remarkable natural plienomenon of the district, it 
 intersects the Elizabethtown road at Scott's. It is 
 claimed to be the shortest route, and it is second to 
 none in its romantic and striking features. The 
 AVhite Face Mountain House, twelve miles from 
 the Point of Rocks, and tvrenty-two miles from 
 the lakes, stands on this road, in Wilmington, amid 
 the wild and beautiful scenery of the Adirondacks, 
 near the base of the White Face mountain, and on 
 the banks of the Au Sable river. Guides, carriages 
 and saddle horses for ascending the mountain, and 
 boats on the river, are at all times provided. From 
 Point of Rocks to Wilmington, twelve miles ; Notch, 
 five miles; Lake Placid, ten miles; North Elba, 
 twelve miles ; Baker's or Blood's, ten miles ; and to 
 Martin's twenty-two miles. (See appendix.) 
 
 By the west branch of the Au Sable, from Point 
 of Rocks to Lower Jay, nine miles; Upper Jay, 
 three miles ; Keene, five miles ; North Elba, twelve 
 miles; Martin's, eleven miles. A new and con- 
 venient hotel is building by Mr. Brewster, at Lake 
 Placid, where is also situated Nash's boarding house. 
 
 The next route south, on the lake, is from Port 
 Kent, via the Au Sable Chasm and Keeseville. 
 Post coaches meet the boats at Port Kent, and any 
 supply of carriages can at all times be secured at 
 
 V. 
 
134 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 
 the landing, by addressing letters or telegrams to 
 Keeseville. ( See appendix ). The distance from 
 this place to the Point of Rocks, where it connects 
 with the roads just described, is ten miles; to Sar- 
 anac lakes, by Wilmington Notch, forty-four miles ; 
 by Franklin Falls, forty-eight miles; to Paul 
 Smith's, fifty-one miles; to Peru, six miles, and 
 to Plattsburgh, fifteen miles, via Peru, and thirteen 
 direct. To Elizabethtown through the gorge of Poke 
 Moonshine, twenty-one miles. First-class car- 
 riages may at all times be obtained to any of these 
 points. 
 
 Another avenue into the Adirondacks starts 
 from Westport, thence eight miles to Elizabeth- 
 town, the county-seat of Essex county. This de- 
 lightful place is known locally, and with great pro- 
 priety, as Pleasant Valley. It is yearly sought by 
 numerous visitors, as an agreeable refuge from the 
 dust and noise of the cities, on account ot the 
 beauty of its situation, on the banks of the Bouquet, 
 and enclosed on every side by mountains; by the 
 salubrity of the air, and its social refinement. 
 Here, in its tasteful cemetery, is the grave of 
 Orlando Kellogg. Among the memorials of the 
 dead, which the stranger will visit with interest in 
 this tranquil spot, stands a monument erected over 
 the grave of a lovely christian lady. Its base is a 
 massive rock of pure, white marble, roughly 
 chiseled, and surmpunted by a graceful cross of 
 the same material, richly and elaborately carved. 
 The whole structure is replete with beauty and 
 pathos. On the base is inscribed : 
 
 " Out of darkness into His marvellous light." 
 
 The idea revealed by the monument and inscrip- 
 tion is beautiful and impressive, — the Cross, rest- 
 ing on ** The Rock of Ages." 
 
Summit Whitefe^e Mt., WUmington, N. Y. 
 
 > 
 
 a 
 
 £., 
 
II 
 
 
 ' 
 
THE ADIROi^DACKS. 
 
 135 
 
 The distance from Pleasant Valley, by the way 
 of Norton's, at Keene Flats, (eleven miles), to 
 Scott's, at North Elba, is twenty-two miles ; and 
 from thence to Saranac lakes, fourteen miles. Every 
 interesting locality in the Adirondacks may be 
 visited from this place. Conveyances will always 
 be supplied. Some portions of the road to the 
 lakes are rough and hilly, but no route is more 
 interesting, or presents a more impressive entrance 
 into " The land of the mountain and flood." 
 
 The traveler will find here, two excellent hotels, 
 the Valley, and the Mansion House. We may class 
 this place among the most pleasant summer resorts 
 for families. 
 
 A tradition has prevailed, since the early settle- 
 ment of the country, that the partizan Rogers dur- 
 ing the colonial war, penetrated to the Plains of 
 Abraham, ( North Elba ), and there in the absence 
 of the warriors, destroyed an Indian village ; that 
 he was pursued and overtaken, just below Pleasant 
 Valley, where a battle occurred. The tale is rend- 
 ered more probable from the fact that relics of mar- 
 tial weapons, both savage and European, have been 
 found upon the scene of the traditional conflict. 
 
 Crown Point is the lake termination of the old 
 Carthage road, constructed by the State many years 
 ago, through the Wilderness to Carthage, in Jeff'er- 
 son county. This road, passing over ridges of the 
 Adirondacks, is mountainous and rugged, but com- 
 fortable. A parallel road runs to Schroon from 
 Ticonderoga. The distance by either is about 
 twenty miles. Schroon Valley is an exquisitely 
 beautiful spot, and is becoming a very attractive 
 resort to summer residents. AVe have already de- 
 scribed its romantic waters. Schroon is about 
 twenty-seven miles from Warrenburgh, and thirty- 
 
136 
 
 THE APTRONDACKS. 
 
 ' 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 two miles from Elizabethtown, and is pleasantly 
 readied in both directions by stages. 
 
 At Crown Point Landing, where the former of 
 these roads commence, is situated Gunnison's hotel, 
 a new and pleasant summer boarding-house. ( See 
 appendix). It is distant by the M. & P. railroad, 
 six miles from the ruins of Crown Point, and nine 
 miles from Ticonderoga, and the mythical " Put's 
 Oak," one and a quarter miles. Private carriages 
 may be obtained here for Schroon or any other 
 point in the vicinity. Hammond Corners, on the 
 Schroon road, one mile; (Bennett's hotel, see ap- 
 pendix); Crown Point Center, three miles. (Ingle's 
 hotel,) to which stages run from the Steamboats, 
 and where private conveyances can be procured to 
 Schroon, and elsewhere ; Bailey's hotel, five miles ; 
 Thompson's, seven miles. From Gunnison's to 
 head of Paradox lake, fifteen miles ; to Hoot's, nine- 
 teen miles ; to Ondawa hotel, twenty-two miles. 
 The Ondawa is a new and spacious house, near the 
 head of Schroon lalvc, and is delightfally situated. 
 Game and fish abound in the neighborhood. The 
 establishment is largely and justly patronized. (See 
 appendix). It is provided with all tlie appointments 
 designed to promote the comfort and amusement 
 of its patrons. A band of music is in attendance. 
 A good livery stable is connected with the hotel. 
 This is a pleasant residence for ladies and children, 
 while other members of the family are pursuing 
 their sporting in the Wilderness. 
 
 Tlie pretty little steamer Libbie makes two daily 
 tri[)s each way, on the beautiful Schroon lake, a 
 miniature of Lake George. V^arions theories exist 
 in reference^^to the origin of this uni(pie name. The 
 most intelligent oi>inion which now prevails, refers 
 it to the French, who during their occupation of 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 137 
 
 of Ticonderoga, visited the lake, and called it 
 " Scaron," as a memorial of Madam Scaron, the 
 celebrated Maitainon,and secret wife of Louis XIV. 
 The distance from the Ondawa, to lake Pharaoh, 
 by boat and pack, is tw? miles ; to Root's seven 
 miles; to Pottersville hotel, a good and quiet sum- 
 mer resort, nine miles; to lake George, twenty-four 
 miles, and to the Gleu a pleasant drive. 
 
 Root's hotel, on Schroon river, is a long estab- 
 lished and well known hostelry. The wearied and 
 hungry wanderer will always greet the huge glitter- 
 ing antlers inscribed: '"Russell Root's Inn," Avitli 
 satisfaction. Several other taverns and boarding 
 houses in the valley are open for the reception of 
 visitors. 
 
 Among the various routes to Mt. Mtircy is one 
 connected with this point, whicli is described as 
 direct and practical. It passes by Mud pond, a 
 beautiful sheet of water, embosomed among the 
 deepest recesses of the Wilderness. At this secpies- 
 tered place, Mr. Moore has opened a house for the 
 accommodation of guests. To facilitate access to the 
 mountains, the enterprising hotel proprietors of 
 Schroon have opened a trail from Mud pond 
 through the forest. Several boats are also prepared 
 on the pond for the convenience of visitors. 
 
 Schroon is remarkable for several very curious 
 natural exhibitions, which will be inspected 
 with interest by the tourist. There are two remark- 
 able subterranean passjiges near Paradox Lake. The 
 first of these forms the channel of a small rivulet, 
 by a natural perforation through the solid rock, 
 several hundred feet in length, and ten or twelve feet 
 below the surface, over which the highway passes, 
 as if on an artificial bridge. In the other, which is 
 mentioned in early works, the explorer enters a 
 
 11 
 
 ii 
 
 If 
 
138 
 
 THE ADIROJ^DACKS. 
 
 lofty arch, several feet below the surface, carved out 
 by the hand of nature from the rock formation. It 
 presents, at some points, the appearance of almost 
 an exact Gothic structure, and from other views, of 
 broken aisles and abrupt canopies. This dark and 
 gloomy cavern extends a number of rods, and is 
 from four to ten feet in width, and from ten to fif- 
 teen feet in height. It is the sluice way of a large 
 stream, which just above the entrance propels a 
 mill and dashes and foams along the rocky descent. 
 Trout are often found within this passage, in pools, 
 which are formed by obstructions to the course of 
 the stream. 
 
 Inflammable gas is emitted from tlie bottom of 
 Schroon Lake, where the water is eighteen or twen- 
 ty feet in depth. This phenomenon is noticed at all 
 seasons. Wlien tlie lake is frozen over, the gas col- 
 lects in various distinct bodies, bcneatli the ice, 
 where it can be readily (liscerned. If a small aper- 
 ture is cut in the ice above one of these collections, 
 the gas rushes forth with great violence, and when a 
 match is applied, ignites and flames up in a bril- 
 liant fiery column often eight feet high, and burns 
 usually from five to fifteen minutes, or until its na- 
 tural receptacle is exhausted. In the summer the 
 gas rises to the surface, at intervals producing a 
 strong ebullition of the water, which continues 
 about five minutes. Burning shavings have been 
 thrust in the gas before it is dissipated, when 
 it instantly takes fire and bursts into a flame several 
 feet high, which spreads over the surface of the 
 lake frequently in a circle of more than thirty feet. 
 An enquiring mind will be gratified by a visit to the 
 rich ore beds and extensive iron works of Mr. John 
 Roth, and to the vast tanneries which abound in 
 this district. The visitor will be surprised to discover 
 
THE ADIROJ^DACKS. 
 
 139 
 
 in this secluded placr* hides taken from the pampas 
 of Soiitli America, which will soon be returned to 
 market in varieties of the choicest leather. 
 
 The road into the Wilderness turns at right an- 
 gles from the highway at Root's Tavern,in Schroon, 
 and follows up a turbulent branch of the 8chroon 
 river, through a wild and rugged region, to Fen- 
 ton's (five miles) ; French's, Boreas river, eleven 
 miles, and eighteen miles to John Cheney's. Stages 
 run regularly from Root's to Long Lake. Every 
 tourist should seek an interview with Cheney, 
 who will impart much interesting information, on 
 all the habits and incidents of wood craft. He is a 
 •fiivorable specimen of the guides and hunters of a 
 former period. Brave, intelligent and faithful, they 
 were always reliable. Many a prototype of '"'Leather 
 Stockings" wandered in this Wilderness. They ])os- 
 sessed dwellings and farms, but these were subordi- 
 nate interests. Tiieii* hearts and homes Avere among 
 the mountains and lakes ; tliey traversed the mazes 
 of the forests with equal facility by day or night ; by 
 the light of the stars, or enveloped in mists. They 
 penetrated alone into the deepest recesses of tlie for- 
 ests and in pursuit of this fascinating life spent days, 
 and even weeks in utter solitude and seclusion. 
 With the instincts of the Indian, they were never 
 bewildered. Some mossy tree, a twig bent or broken 
 long before, afforded a certain clue to their posi- 
 tion. They traced the game with unerring preci- 
 cision, and with rilles that never failed. Their tales 
 of conflicts with savage beasts and hair breadth 
 escapes from forest dangers, often describe the 
 most thrilling and exciting scenes. Occupying the 
 verge of civilization, the lingering race of these hun- 
 ters will soon be extinguished by its advance, and 
 like the red man, in whose character and habits 
 
 :' 1 
 
tlii! 
 
 n 
 
 f.v 
 
 It • 
 
 
 !■ i| 
 
 140 
 
 THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 they so strongly participate, their truc^i will soon be 
 lost or they will be only recalled in local traditions 
 or shadowy reminiscences. In by-gone years, John 
 Cheney was " the famous hunter " among this 
 chiss of men. He was alone with Mr. Henderson in 
 the Wilderness when he received his fatal wound. 
 Many of the incidents of his life have found their way 
 into print, but the history of his adventures, his 
 exciting Moose hunts, his warfare upon the Wolf, 
 his terrible conflicts with bears in their dens, and 
 panthers in their lairs, would occupy a volume. 
 
 A mile beyo;id Cheney's is Tahawas village, or 
 the Lower )Vorks, as they were designated by the 
 Adirondack Company, near the foot of Like Sand- 
 ford, (Tahawas Hotel.) We will briefly turn from 
 our route to make an excursion, (ten miles,) to the 
 abandoned works of the Company, located on the 
 stream between Lake Henderson and Lake San ford. 
 It may be made by water or over a passable road, 
 which affords as perfect views of mountain scenery 
 as the mind can conceive. The road passes along a 
 narrow valley between the lake and the mountain. 
 Mt Marcy and the cluster of peaks that surround it 
 impending on the right, the W^all Face Mountain 
 in the distance, rearing its Titanic masonry above 
 the Indian Pass, and on every side, '-Alps on Alps 
 arise." The visitor will be amized to discover in 
 this silent and deserted village, and at both extremi- 
 ties of the lake the appliances of commerce and the 
 vestiges of a great manufacturing institution. 
 There are massive dams, wharves, store-houses and 
 ironworks; but a single watchman alone patrols 
 the former si'at of vast business activity. The edi- 
 fices are all unoccupied. T'his is one of the largest 
 and most aflluent districts of mineral wealth in the 
 world. Tlie whole structure of the earth is uppar- 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 Ul 
 
 ently formed of iron ore ; the celltars were excavat- 
 ed in the mineral, the river is spanned by a natural 
 iron dam. . The remoteness of the position, and 
 other causes, compelled, many years ago, a suspen- 
 sion of the works, but the sanguine hope is cher- 
 ished, that the Adirondack I^iilroad, which is grad- 
 ually approaching tlie Wilderness, will rekindle 
 these fires, and utilize to the world tlie incomputa- 
 ble wealth hidden in tliese deep recesses. The 
 spectacle exhibited liere will strongly interest the 
 explorer and is calculated to create the most solemn 
 and impressive emotions. Our limits Avill not per- 
 mit a recital of the extraordinary history of the place; 
 the revelation by the Indian brave to Mr. Henderson, 
 of the existence of the vast deposits of ore and of 
 the iron dam; the secret expedition to explore it; 
 the bivouac in the Indian Pass, to escape observa- 
 tion ; the stealthy excavation ; the cautious dis- 
 guising of the work ; the rapid retreat ; tlie hurry- 
 ing to Albany to secure the title, and the terrible 
 death of Mr. Henderson amid the wilds. Histories 
 of Essex county minutely narrate the tale. 
 
 A comfortable carriage road diverges at Potters- 
 ville from the great northern highway running to 
 Schroon, and passing through Olmsteadville and 
 Minerva, intersects with the route we have been 
 following, a mile west of Tahavvas. The distance is 
 about twenty-lour miles. At Minerva, is Champ- 
 ney's house, and eiglit miles north Hewitt's place. 
 Pursuing the road towards Long Lake, we pass a 
 little hamlet on Harris lake, and stop at the famil- 
 iar resort of Daniel Bissell, and soon alter skirt 
 along the margin of Eicli Pond, both fountain 
 heads of tlie Hudson. Long Lake is in Hamilton 
 County, forty-one miles from Koot's, where we en- 
 tered the Wilderness. A post office is established 
 
143 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 •i<- '. 
 
 at this place, known as the Long Lake P. 0. Stages 
 run weekly to Warrensburgh leaving on Mondays, 
 and connecting with the cars on Tuesday. Ex- 
 tra conveyances are always piovided. There is a 
 good hotel by C. H. Kellogg, which will accommo- 
 date about thirty visitors, and a boarding house by 
 Mitchell Sabatis, the well known hunter and intel- 
 ligent guide, who will " render comfortable about 
 sixteen guests." Tourists are supplied with all the 
 necessary appliances for the woods or lakes. The 
 nearest station of the Adirondack Kailroad from 
 Long Lake, is between forty and fifty miles. The 
 distance to Martin's on Saranac Lake is forty miles, 
 and to Paul Smith's, fifty miles. Three miles from 
 Kellogg's, near the head of Long Lake, is the house 
 of Mr. Palmer. On Raquette Lake, near the foot, is 
 situated Gary's Hotel; in the opposite direction, 
 below Long Lake, and at Raquette Falls, is John- 
 son's place. 
 
 From Carthage to Long Lake is between forty 
 and fifty miles, by the Beach Lake road. Another 
 avenue is from Booneville, by Lyonsdale, seven 
 miles, Avery's, five and a half miles; to Arnold's, 
 fourteen miles, and from thence to Kellogg's, on 
 Long Lake, forty miles. The requisite pack horses 
 and other conveniences are provided on this route, 
 to transport persons and baggage across the car- 
 ries. 
 
 Graves' Lodge, a cottage-like retreat, is situated 
 near the head, and M. M. Moody's establishment at 
 the foot of Great Tupper lake. ( See appendix ). 
 These are pleasant resorts, where every convenience 
 will be furnished for enjoying the superior hunting 
 and fishing which abounds in the region. 
 
 Vast changes, it is manifest, are impending in 
 the aspect and relations of this region. The ad- 
 
THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 143 
 
 Stages 
 ndays, 
 Ex- 
 re is a 
 >mmo- 
 use by 
 
 intel- 
 
 about 
 
 all the 
 
 The 
 
 a from 
 
 The 
 
 miles, 
 ;s from 
 : house 
 foot, is 
 ectioii, 
 
 John- 
 
 n forty 
 Liiother 
 i, seyen 
 mold's, 
 rg's, on 
 : horses 
 s route, 
 the car- 
 situated 
 nent at 
 tendix ). 
 renience 
 liunting 
 
 ding in 
 The ad- 
 
 vent of the Adirondack Railroad that is slowly 
 invading the AVilderness, and which proposes to 
 pierce its deepest recesses diagonally, .uust work a 
 radical revolution in its condition. The utilitarian 
 spirit of the age will not be arrested by the re- 
 straints of sentiment. Sentiment would perpet- 
 uate these wilds, as vast preserves of fish and game, 
 for the benefit of coming generations. Taste would 
 forbid these scenes of beauty and splendor, of 
 solitude and silence, to be desecrated. A wise 
 forecast might demand that tliese forests should be 
 maintained to secure a perpetual supply to the 
 countless streams that flow from their bosom. But 
 the insatiate lust of wealth, in this instance doubt- 
 less just, will exact the vast affluence that slumbers 
 in the ores and timber of the Adirondacks, and 
 the exhaustless mineral riches, already known and 
 those yet unrevealed, of which the former is the 
 type and index. Iron, is however, far from being 
 the exclusive mineral contained in the bosom of the 
 Adirondacks. Plumbago and kaolin, have been 
 found in large deposits, and practically utilized* 
 Traces of galena are noticed in every section. 
 Copper ore of peculiar richness, has been discovered 
 in Crown Point, in the same pit from which the 
 remarkable native Phosphate of Lime is extracted, 
 and little doubt exists of the presence of silver ore 
 in the vicinity of Indian Pass. 
 
 The tradition seems quite authentic, that a hun- 
 ter, lost in the forest, and wandering two days, 
 noticed a brilliant substance in the seams of the 
 rock ; specimens of which he secured. At length 
 recovering his courses, he regained the open 
 country, and subsequently caused the material to 
 be analyzed, which \va3 pV6no'i;ii6ed'p^rc silvei ore. 
 A somewhat apochryplial part of the tab, says that 
 
 f > » 
 
 > I > 
 
144 
 
 THE ADIROXDACKS. 
 
 n 
 
 silver spoons were fiibricated frcm the mineral. 
 Ardent search has been made by t]i'> discoverer, and 
 numerous believers, for the spot, but without suc- 
 cess. 
 
 When this territory shall be rendered accessible, 
 the stately forest will be claimed for the uses of 
 industry, and the venerable pines, which have tow- 
 ered among them, in majestic beauty, will fall 
 beneath the axe of the lumberman. In some sec- 
 tions, as we have noticed, the process is already 
 initiated. 
 
 Happily, in reference to the views of those who 
 would spare this Wilderness, large portions of it 
 are impenetrable to this pursuit, and still larger 
 portions are impracticable to agriculture. These 
 recuperative energies of nature will always rehabil- 
 itate it with a fresh and copious vegetation. The 
 hope may be confidently cherished, that these head 
 springs, of such incalculable value to the State, will 
 never be desecrated, and that its features of tran- 
 quil beauty will never wholly be obliterated from 
 the Northern Wilderness. 
 
 I J I • 
 
 t ». > ' 
 
I N D K X . 
 
 sue- 
 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 
 Abcrcrombie,...!?, 14, 15. 123, ISICasitleton,' 37 
 
 AdirondackH, 33, 3!t Chateaugay, 7(j 
 
 Allen, Ebenezer 28 Chateaugay Woodf, (iO 
 
 Allen, Ethan '-i*! Cranes, 10!» 
 
 Arnold, B 2»;, 32 Chimney Point, 28 
 
 Amherst, t 15, 3t, 4V Crown Point, 28, 2!) 
 
 All Sable Chasm, 5»i, «;4, 81 Corloar 31 
 
 All Sable Delta, SS Cumberland Head 35, Sti 
 
 Au Sable Forks . .8t» Curiosities, Natural . . .3!), 40, 5B, 72 
 
 Avenues to Wilderness 128 75, 81, 85, 01 
 
 92,!t4, nn. 122 
 
 Ss;;jav;v;;;::.:::::::::::lIchoney,.Tohn ''!^S 
 
 Sr;^'^-:::;:;;;::::::::::!gg;---^ i^-,..,.-^ 
 
 Minerva l^l moskVu 00,90,100,108 
 
 Plattsburgh, l^^'ni^ ir. n.:' ;. V 
 
 Port Kent 133 "*^^" '^ ^^^ " ^^ 
 
 porsd^!::;;;:::;:::::;:: ::JiDownie,capt 50,52 
 
 Schroon 137,142 
 
 Westport, 134 
 
 wiSgon:;:;:;:.:;:::;-::::;i33^;^<-^'^l'j^»^^^^ 
 
 Carthage, . 142 El'^^il'^thtown, . 
 
 Adirondack Works, 140 
 
 Efsex, 31 
 
 .134 
 
 FALLS. 
 
 Baker, T.N lit 
 
 Baldwin, W. G 10 
 
 BATTLES. 
 
 Trent, 5(1 
 
 lAu Sable Klver, SO 
 
 Rainbow 01 
 
 'Franklin, 130 
 
 ,. ^.-Flshina, 55,115,110 
 
 Chauiplain 22 pi^,, Transference of 87 
 
 Lake George, 8 
 
 Graves of Dead 52 FLEETS. 
 
 Plattsburgh, 40,5: 
 
 Naval -I'N •''^» Indian 10 
 
 Sabbath Day Point, 10, 15 [^^leiuh ".' '.'. Vo' " 42 
 
 Valcour, .35 British and American, .i:i,'::5, 4t)', 40 
 
 Indian, .... . 13a '^ja,. LouoiiLrh's, 30, 40 
 
 Bradstrcet, Oen 14 ' 
 
 Beaman, Nathan ,^;" Giililand. Willian. 31 
 
 Bear, lO ^J^.^.^,^ iMountaiiis,, 33, 38 
 
 Beaver, >• ]"^ Guides and 1! miters 110, 132 
 
 Benedict, F. N 110 i.>..' loa 
 
 Bixby.Dr 107 ^^'^^^^-^ 
 
 Brancion . ^^'J Ilallock Hill 50, 87 
 
 Bloody Pond.. ... .8 Hi.,„icrsoii. David 125. 141 
 
 Brown, Co .Jolin 1 '. ^*^ lltmdrick, Sachem 7 
 
 Brown, John . . .<> uowe. Lord 12. 13 
 
 Burgoyne 1;>, 27, • 1 Howe Cove 13, 
 
 Bulwagga Bay, . 20 ii,u,tcr's Pass, 
 
 Burlington 32, -!1. 01 
 
 Blooiningdalo, 1^'*, Indian Pass 
 
 Ice H, 
 
 Caldwell, ](i Inman, A. L 21 
 
 Cannon, Ool. Le Grand B. 21. 32, 52 Inhuul Navitration, 110 
 
 Carillon, Fort 13 Insects 110 
 
 CarltoiPs Prize, 41 Incidents, 23, 00, 141, 143 
 
 Champlain, Samuel D 22, 2) 
 
 Charoplain Canal, 37 ISLANDS. 
 
 " Transportation Co. ..10, 20 
 
 " Discipline on St'rs of, .. 44 Diamond 15 
 
 " Lake, Navigation of. . .4401' Lake George, J7 
 
 " Survey of 45!Four Brothers, 32 
 
 " ■ 75iJuuiper, 32, 32 
 
 15 
 92 
 
 08 
 23 
 
 m 
 
INDEX 
 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 . i I 
 
 PAGE.; PAGE. 
 
 Schuylor'e, 34,Moo?e, 100 
 
 Gorden, 34 
 
 Valcour 34 MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Crab 35 
 
 La Mott 3H, 57: Black, 17 
 
 Providence, 41, Bald, 30 
 
 Grand Ifle, 57, SSCamers* Hump, 3;^, 67 
 
 iLion, 55 
 
 Johnsion, Sir William 6, fl Manslield, 65 
 
 Jay, 133! Adirondack Teaks, 123, 125 
 
 iMarcy 124 
 
 Keesevillo 62. 82, SSSeward, 126 
 
 Keeiio Flats WOVVhite Face, 126 
 
 Logp, Running 58 North Elba % 
 
 Northern Plain, 34, 73 
 
 LAKES AND PONDS. 104 
 
 Ogdcnshurgh, 78 
 
 George 5, 16, 17 
 
 Champlain, 22 Panther 01. 100, 108 
 
 Chazy 55 Page, ( Juv y/K 43 
 
 Bomerseen, 37 Platt^hurgh 40, 52 
 
 Dunmore 3!), 40 Poke () Moonshine 87 
 
 Chateangav, 7»i Port Henry, 20 
 
 An Sable Ponds OOPort Kent 34 
 
 Placid 05, 133Potter, G. S , 115 
 
 Moose River System, 105 Proctor, N. B 43 
 
 Raquette System, 105 Provost, Sir George ^6, 51 
 
 Saranac System 100, 130, 13iiPutniim, 
 
 St. Regis System, 100 Pufs Rock, 20 
 
 lupper,...: 106, 131, 142 Put's Tree 
 
 Long 105, 1421q . „q .. _„ 
 
 Blue Mountain, ^yji^uarius .i», 41, .2 
 
 Schroon 132, UUi: BAILBOADS. 
 
 Paradox, VJ* 
 
 Edmonds' Pond, 07, 00 Rensselaer & Saratoga, 10 
 
 Henderson, 120 Vermont & Canada 68 
 
 Sandford 12l! Vermont Central, 65 
 
 Avalanche, 121iMi8si8quoi Brancli, 72 
 
 Lakes of the Wilderness, 112| Whitehall & Platt,8burgh,.28, m, 39 
 
 Mallett'8 Bay 4llMontreai &, Plattsbnrgh, 36, 76 
 
 Malone, 771 Addison, 39 
 
 Marine Shells, 72' Montreal & Lake Champlain, 74 
 
 Marin, OiOgdensbnrgh & Champlain, 75 
 
 Molong, OlWestern Vermont, 38 
 
 MacDonough,....30, 35, 40, 49, 511 Adirondack, 141 
 
 MacDonough Farm, 56!Kock Dunder, Reggio 32 
 
 McGlassin, Maj 46 
 
 MINEBAL SFBINGS. 
 
 Adirondack, Westport, 30 
 
 Adirondack, Whitehall, 37 
 
 Middletown, 38 
 
 Iodine, 57 
 
 Elgin, .40 
 
 Sheldon, 71 
 
 Missisquoi, 71 
 
 Highgate, 72 
 
 Massina, 77 
 
 Keeeeville, 8' 
 
 Middlebury 39 
 
 Minerals and Gems, 29, 07. 122 
 
 14^, 143 
 
 Mohawk 8, 
 
 Moore's Junction, 75, 70 
 
 MisBidquoi Bay, 36, 73 
 
 Montcalm 10, 11, 14, 15 
 
 BIVEBS. 
 
 i Wood Creek, 21 
 
 Otter Creek, ;30, 38, 40 
 
 Boquet, 81 
 
 Chazy 36 
 
 Winooski, 41, 69 
 
 Lamoille, 41, 69 
 
 Saranac, 53, 55, 57, 100 
 
 Au Sable, 56, 88 
 
 Graes, 79 
 
 Raquette, 79, 105 
 
 Salmon 79, 100 
 
 St. Regis 79, 107 
 
 Os wagatchie, 107 
 
 Hudson, Branches of 120 
 
 Mohawk, Branches of 121 
 
 Rogers' Major, 9, 18 135 
 
 Rogers' Slide, 18 
 
 Root, E 83 
 
 B 
 
INDEX. 
 
 17 
 
 30 
 
 .'iZ, 67 
 
 55 
 
 65 
 
 23, 125 
 ....124 
 . . . .126 
 . . . .126 
 
 % 
 73 
 
 78 
 
 100, 108 
 ..VK 43 
 ..40, 52 
 
 87 
 
 29 
 
 34 
 
 115 
 
 43 
 
 ..46, 51 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 72 
 
 19 
 
 08 
 
 65 
 
 72 
 
 !8, 36, 39 
 ...36, 76 
 
 39 
 
 n, 74 
 
 , TO 
 
 38 
 
 141 
 
 33 
 
 i6,"38',"40 
 
 31 
 
 36 
 
 ...41, 69 
 ...41, 69 
 I, 67, 109 
 ...56, 88 
 
 79 
 
 ..79, 105 
 ..79, 109 
 . .79, 107 
 
 107 
 
 120 
 
 121 
 
 9, 18 135 
 
 18 
 
 R3 
 
 B 
 
 PAGE.] PAGK. 
 
 RoBO, H. II .. 31 iTrembleau Point,.. . 34 
 
 Rutland ;i8iTrout .;.'; ' 114 
 
 RoDBe'e Point, 37, 74 FiBhin'', "'n5 
 
 Roger's J. & J. Works 89, ia>jThomaB, Almon ."'.!..*!!.'! 123 
 
 Sabbath Day Point,.. 10, 13, 15. ISiUnderwood, Gov 43 
 
 Halmon, 60 
 
 Schuyler, Philip 13, lllVandruil 6 
 
 St. AlbanB, OOlVergennes, .30, 41 
 
 Shelbnrne Bay, 32 
 
 Swanton, 72 
 
 Sherman, Captains .4 \ 44 
 
 Steamers,.. 16, 20, 29, 32, 41, 42, 43 
 
 76, 135 
 Steamboat Commanders,. 20, 40, 43 
 
 44 
 
 Steamboat Trips,. .29, 41, S6, 56, 62 
 
 Steamboat Arrangemerts 64 
 
 Steamboats, Discipline on 44 
 
 Snow Shoesi, 6, 16 
 
 " " Battleon 18 
 
 Sooth Bay, 7, 71 
 
 Smith, J. Gregory 70, 71 
 
 Ship Canal, 24 
 
 Smugglers, 65,69 
 
 Split Rock .30 
 
 Swan, 120 
 
 Schroon, , 
 
 Scenery, Autumn 
 
 Scenery, Winter 24, 83 
 
 Ticonderoga, 
 
 Vessels, Relics of 19, 32, 34 
 
 Water Lilies 89, 114 
 
 Waterbury, 65 
 
 Whale, Fossil 41 
 
 Watson, Elkanah 31, 45 
 
 Williams, Col. Ephraim 7 
 
 William Henry, Fort 6, 9, 11 
 
 Whitehall, I9, 37 
 
 Wires' Insurance Building, 62 
 
 Wolves, 60, 108 
 
 Westport ,30 
 
 Willsboro Bay, 32 
 
 White, L. S 33 
 
 Wind Mill Point 
 
 Wilmington Notch, 94 
 
 Wool. Gen 47 
 
 Willraington, Col 47 
 
 Wildt mess. Northern 100 
 
 While Fish 115 
 
 13, 15, 24, 26, 27 
 
 Young Men, Military Co. of 48 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 56, 16th line from bottom, read Hallock Hill, for Hallock. 
 
 Page 57, last word, read extent for expanse. 
 
 Page 58, 11th line from top, read villas for villages. 
 
 Pages 32 and 67, read Lion for Leon. 
 
 Page 115, read Potter for Pottr. 
 
 Page 144, 8th line from bottom, read these for the. 
 
'K 
 
 <M 
 
 t - 
 
 [■t\ 
 
 lii! 
 
 i : ' I 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 —♦♦♦"• 
 
 TO SEE 
 
 LAKE CHAMPIIAN I LAKE GEOBGE 
 
 Wt Mmy-^i^M^ 
 
 Gi<yj.isci^ 
 
 
 O XT ^X^ Xi 
 
 Leavt! Afontroal by Clir.mplain and St. Lawrence railroad, 
 4.00 P. M. ; take the steamer at Houses Point and reach 
 Plattsburo'li for supper, passing by day-liglit tlie site of the 
 old Fort St. Ann, on Isle La Motte, built by the French in 
 1775, and Cuml)erland Head, where Burfjjoyne collected to- 
 gether his army in 1777, preparatory to his attack on Ticon- 
 deroga ; or by the Train to Lachine and Caughnawaga, 
 thence by M. & P. Railroad direct to Plattsburgh. Stopping 
 at Fou(piet's Hotel over night, passengers can take the stea- 
 mer for Whitehall or Lake (Jeorge at 8.00 A. M., the next 
 morning thus having an oi)portunity to view by day-lig'ht 
 all the places of interest upon the shores of this beautitul 
 Lake, arriving at VVliitehall at 4 P. M.. or Saratoga at ft 
 P.M. 
 
 1-0 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 For Lake George 
 
 Passengers will leave the steamer at Ticonderoffa at 3 P. M,, 
 thence by stage, 4 miles around the rapids ; thence by stea- 
 mer to Caldwell at the upper end of the lake. 
 
 S#f^|j, 
 
 PLATTSBURGH, N. Y. 
 
 This Hotel is Bituated at Plattsburgh, upon the western 
 shore of Lake Charaplain , on the banks of Cumberland Bay, 
 which was the scene of the naval battle between the Eng- 
 lish and American fleets, Sept. lltli, 1814. At this Hotel, 
 conveniently located within a few rods of the steamboat 
 landing and the depots, its ])iazzas commanding a fine view 
 of the Lake, the Ureon Mountains on the east, and the Adi- 
 rondacks on the west, and standing in the midst of a great 
 garden of flowers, open to the guests, the traveller finds 
 every convenience and comfort. Tiiis house, noted for its ex- 
 cellently served tables, and courteous management, and 
 which heretofore has received transient guests only, is 
 opened this season for permanent boarders. Also, connect- 
 ed as it is by daily lines with Montreal, Lake (ieorg<', Al- 
 burgh and the Iodine Springs on Grand Isle, the Au Sable 
 Chasm (a wonderful natural spectacle just coming into no- 
 tice) and. the Adirondack Wilderness proper, few places are 
 80 admirably adapted to furnish health and recreation. 
 
 ight 
 
 From Montreal to Plattsburgh. 
 
 As there is no bt)at leaving Rouses Point Saturday even- 
 ing, tourists desirous ot spending Sunday in Plattsburgh, en 
 route for Lake CJc'orgf and Saratoga, will require to leave 
 Montreal by the Plattsburgh and Montreal railroad, via 
 LachJneand Caughnawaga, at :] P. M., by which they will 
 arrive at Fouquet's Hotel at 0,4o P, M, 
 
! 
 
 TI 
 
 APPENDIX , 
 
 !3 1 
 
 ■ 'i. 
 
 Hi 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 t i 6 
 
 n 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 ill!, 
 
 fi 
 
 II 
 
 ROUTES TO PLATTSBURQH 
 And the Au Sable Chasm, 
 
 From the White Mountains. 
 
 Take the stages at Crawford and Profile Houses (twice 
 daily) for Littleton, N. H.; thence by rail to Wells river. 
 Leave Wells River at 10.15 A. M., White River Junction at 
 1.30 P. M., arriving at Burlington at 5.50 P. M., thence by 
 steamer to Plattsburgh and the Au Sable Chasm. 
 
 FROM HOUHT~MANSFISLD. 
 
 Take stages 6.30 A.M., or 3.00 P. M., to Waterbury, 
 thence by Vermont Central Railroad to Burlington, thence 
 by steamer to Piattsburgh ; or continuing by cars from 
 Waterbury to St. Albans, remaining over night, thence by 
 steamer " Andrew Williams " from St. Albans Bay, pass- 
 ing over the most beautiful part of Lake Champlain. The 
 Lake, here dotted with beautiful verdure-clad islands in 
 every direction, and the whole scene backed with the 
 mountain ranges on both sides of the lake, more nearly re- 
 sembles the scenery of Archipelago of the ^gean Sea than 
 any other view on this continent. This steamer, the " A. 
 Williams," plies between St. Albans Bay, the North and 
 South rieros, and Plattsburgh. 
 
 PROM SARATOGA "^RINGS AND LAKE 
 
 QEOBGE TO FLATTSBUEGH AND THE 
 
 AU SABLE CHASM. 
 
 Leave Saratoga at 0. 20 A. M., or 7.15 P. M., Whitehall at 
 11.15 A. M.. or 0.15 P. M. ; Burlington at 3.30 A. M., or 5.00 
 P. M. Arrive at Plattsburgh 4.30 A. M., or C.30 P. M., irom 
 thence to Port Kent by boat, and by stage, 3 miles to the 
 Chasm. 
 
 If en route from the White Mountains to Lake George, go 
 direct to Burlington, take steamer from Burlington to Port 
 Kent, thence by Stage, 3 miles to Au Sable Chasm; take the 
 evening boat to Plattsburgh ; pass the night at Fouquet's, 
 and take the day-boat the following day for Lake George, 
 or evening boat from Burlington direct to Plattsburgh boat ; 
 the folloAving morning to Pert Kent and the Chasm ; even- 
 ing boat to Burlington, or through the lake same evening, 
 from Port Kent, — spending the day at the Chasm. 
 
 U en route from Saratoga to the White Mountains, and 
 you wish to visit the Chasm, go direct to Plattsburgh, and 
 take steamer next morning for Port Kent, thence by stage, 
 2 miles ; pass the day at the Chasm, take the boat same 
 evening for Burlington and proceed on your journey next 
 morning from that point. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 Vlt 
 
 1871. 
 
 1871, 
 
 Route to the Adirondacks. 
 
 Great iaducanicnts are now offered to Business men, for 
 recreation, to visit the Adirondacks, the most healtliy and 
 picturesque region in America, 
 
 Business men, Sportsmen and Parties contemplating a 
 trip to the Wilderness, should notice the unusual facilities 
 offered this season, making the woods easy of access. 
 
 Arrangements have been completed to run a regular daily 
 mail and Express line of Four Horue Coaches by the " Adi- 
 rondack Stage Co. " to the Saranric and St. Regis region, 
 leaving Point of Rocks, Ausable 'Station, the terminal sta- 
 tion on the Whitehall and Plattsburgh Railroad.every morn- 
 ing on arrival of the train, — reaching Paul Smith's and Mar- 
 tin's early the same day. A telegraph line is now erected 
 to Paul Smith's and Martin's, from which dispatches can be 
 speedily carried to all parts of the Wilderness. In short, the 
 tourist, sportsman and invalid, can now visit this won- 
 derful region with rapidity and ease. 
 
 RoxTTE From Boston. — Leave by trains via Fitchburgh 
 or Lowell depot at- 7.30 A. M., or 5.33 P. M. for Burlington, 
 making close connections with the steamers on Lake Cham- 
 plain to Plattsburgh, thence via the W. & P. Railroad to 
 Point of Rocks, Au Sable Station, — hence by stage. 
 
 Parties leaving Boston on the morning train, can remain 
 over night at Plattsburgh and resume their journey in the 
 morning. 
 
 Route Fuom New York. — Via Hudson or Ilarlem Rail- 
 roads, or Hudson River Line of Steamers to Troy or Albany, 
 thence by Renaseher and Saratoga Railroad, and by Lake 
 Champlain Steamers from Whitehall. 
 
 fgy*Ticket8 can now be purchased, and baggage checked 
 direct to Paul Smith's and Martin's. 
 
VUI 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Bii 
 
 I ! 
 
 :A;l 
 
 
 I 
 
 LAItE OEOI^OE, 
 
 This large, well-known, and charmingly situated Hotel is 
 newly opened by the present proprietors for the accomoda- 
 tion of pleasure tourists during the season of 1871, It has 
 been thoroughly fitted up and provided with every conven- 
 ience and luxury for the comfort and recreation of its guests, 
 and no pains will be spared to make the LAKE HOUSE, in 
 every respect, unsurpassed as a most attractive and delight- 
 ful place of Summer resort. 
 
 Direct communication by rail and boat from New York, 
 Boston and Montreal. Parties desiring rooms will please 
 address EGBERT J. GALE, 
 
 Caldwell, Warren Co., N. Y. Proprietor. 
 
 Notary Public, Surveyor, Broker, 
 
 And Dealer !n REAL ESTATE, 
 
 Offers for sale on reasonable terms, oO,000 acres of Valua- 
 ble Timber and Farming Lands, situate in Clinton, Essex, 
 Franklin, Hamilton, St. Lawrence, Warren, and other coun- 
 ties. A good portion oi the above lands located in and 
 around the northern Wilderness, making desirable lots for 
 fitting up summer Ledges, &c. Enclose stamp for list of 
 Lots to HIRAM BUCK, 
 
 Keal Estate Agent, 
 
 Essex Co., N. Y. Crown Point (.'enter. 
 
 «>i\ 
 
 ''% 
 
 !# 
 
 Crown Point, Essex Co., N. Y. 
 
 This new and elegant Hotel will bo open this season. 
 
 Pleasantly situated on the shore of Lake Champlain, for 
 beauty and convenience of location it is unsurpassed. Exten- 
 sive view of Champlain Valley and Lake, (Jreen Mountains 
 ■ and Adirondacks. Steamboat, Railroad and telegra])h com- 
 munication to all points; (ticket office in the Hotel.) On 
 the popular route to Mount Marcy and Indian Pas^. Short 
 drive from old Crown Point and " Ti" Forts, Putt's Oak, 
 Mineral Spring, &c. House new ; rooms spacious and well 
 ventilated ; broad piazzas ; cool exhilerating breezes and 
 healthful clinuxte. 
 
 Horses and carriages for Ondawa Hotel, Schroon Lake, 
 Adirondack region and other points of interest, on reasoa- 
 able terms. (Capacity about -jO guests.) 
 
 ■ A. &.W. O.GUNNISON. 
 
[otel is 
 
 )inoda- 
 
 It has 
 
 onven- 
 
 jTuests, 
 ISE, in 
 lelight- 
 
 • York, 
 please 
 -E, 
 prietor. 
 
 K 
 
 f 
 
 Valiia- 
 Essex, 
 
 ^r coun- 
 in and 
 
 ots for 
 list of 
 
 gent, 
 Center. 
 
 AM 
 
 S) 
 
 on. 
 ain, for 
 
 Exten- 
 
 untaina 
 
 )h com- 
 
 1.) On 
 
 Short 
 
 s Oak, 
 nd well 
 ;es and 
 
 Lake, 
 roasoa- 
 
 A P P E N D r X . 
 
 IX 
 
 ctrntoN mntp 
 
 I>fniiitM»ioi"a, 
 
 BY R. K. L 0. B. BROMLEY. 
 
 This Hotel, having been enlarged and improved by the 
 present proprietors, is now ready for the entertainnumt of 
 guests en route to the Cha/y and ether sales of the Adiron- 
 dack region, and will be found a pleasant resting plsiee for 
 parties going to, and returning from the " Ureat Wilder- 
 ness." Its rooms are commodious and airy, and tlie table is 
 always furnished with line trout and game, and the choicest 
 of everything in season. On the comi)htion of its new 
 sheds and stdble.s, now nearly fiiuslied, it will afford the 
 best accommodaticm for horses to Ije found, any where in this 
 region. 
 
 A daily line of Four Horse Coaches 
 owned l)y the ]»roprietors of this hotel, affords easy and plea- 
 sant transportation between Plattsl)urgh and Dannemora, 
 with a branch running to Saranac and Kedford. A supply 
 of choice Wines and Cigars constantly on hand. 
 
 KEESEVILLE, N. Y., 
 
 N. C. BOYKTOK, Proprietcr. 
 
 This well known house will continue to be kept as a 
 
 FiE&F €Et^8S MQFMEf.. 
 
 Its rooms are pleasant, its tables good, and every attention 
 will be paid to the traveller, whether on business or for 
 pleasure. 
 
 ON, 
 
 Located at the head of Tapper's Lake. 
 
 This Lodge is situated in the finest Hunting and Fishing 
 Tegion in the Wilderness. 
 
 Board and Lodging per week, .$10.()(). i3oard and lodgin/^ 
 per day, $1.00. 
 
 WM. W. 6EAVES, 
 
 P. O. Address, ^^aranuc Lake, N. Y. Proprietor. 
 
iM 
 
 ;^1 
 
 ■M 
 
 
 I M 
 
 if 
 
 Rifi 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 HOTEL, 
 
 Big Tupper Lake. 
 
 TliiB house is pleasantly situated at tlie foot of the lake, 
 in the midst of the very best hunting and fishing grounds. 
 Guides and boats and all necessary supplies furnished at 
 reasonable rates. The place can be easily reached from 
 Long Lake and from the hotels on St. Regis and Saranac 
 Lakes.% About fifty guests can be accommodated. Board, 
 50 cents per meal and 50 cents lodging. Ten dollars by 
 the week. 
 
 M. M. MOODY, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 P. O. Haranac Lake. 
 
 liOWBR SARANAC LAKE. 
 
 ^ 
 
 This house has been doubled in capacity the last year and 
 will accommodate 150 guests. It is in the immediate vici- 
 nity of the best hunting grounds and fishing, (both Lake and 
 the speckled brook Trout), in the Wilderness, and is 
 centrally situated for access to other resorts. It is connected 
 with Keeseville and Point of Rocks by daily stages, carry- 
 ing the mail, and by triweekly stages with Westport, via 
 Elizabethtown, Keene and North Elba ; Stages also run 
 through Wilmington Notch. Telegraph and Post olfices at 
 the house. The location renders it a desirable summer re- 
 sidence for families. There is a croquet ground on the 
 premises. Horses and carriages in readiness for guests. 
 Qood guides and boat supplied at $2.50 or $3.00 per day. 
 Board i$2.50 the day and $12.00 the week, governed bj 
 quality of rooms. 
 
 Nothing will be omitted to aecure Iho confort and enjoy- 
 ment of patrons. 
 
 W. F. MARTIN. 
 
 Saranac Lako, P, O. 
 
A I^ P E N D I X . 
 
 Xt 
 
 Crowji Point, M. Y, 
 
 § 
 
 This well-known and popular house is situated at Ham- 
 mond's Corners, one mile from the Steamboat landing and 
 the W. and P. R. K. depot, and on the direct road leading 
 to the " Old Fort " at Crown Point, Ticonderoga, I^ake 
 George and the Adirondack Wilderness. Telegrapii office, 
 next door. This being the principal business portion ot 
 the town, business men and pleasure seekers will find good 
 accommodations. Teams ai short notice and upon reasona- 
 ble terms. A. J. BENNETT, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 Brasher Falls Depot, N, Y, 
 
 '«» 
 
 This is the nearest depot to Massena Springs. Daily 
 stages during pleasure travel.also good livery accommodation 
 for conveying passengers. Ample accommodations for 
 guests who come on evening trains to remain over night. 
 
 L. H. DUNTON, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 m 
 
 ml 
 
 BY M. MEADER & BROTHEB. 
 
 This new Hotel is delightfully located on the East shore 
 of Chazy Lake, betneen Eagle Point and Half-way Point, 
 the site having been selected for its pleasant surroundings, 
 and the fine view it aftbrds of the Lake and surrounding 
 scenery. It has been fitted up and furnished with every 
 convenience for the comfort of guests, and will be found a 
 delightful resort, for gentlemen and ladies seeking health 
 ftnd recreation during the summer. 
 
 BOATS AND GUIDES 
 
 will be in readiness at all times for the accommodation of 
 fishing and hunting parties. 
 
 CHAIiaES L\ ALL CAh^lJS, nEASOXAnLi:. 
 
11 
 
 1^' > 
 
 
 m 
 
 XII 
 
 A r P E N D I X . 
 
 WHITEFACE 
 
 WESTON & AYEE, Proprietors, 
 
 WILMINGTON, 
 
 E>b!Scx County, - - - INOv Yoi*lc. 
 
 This House is situated on the Ausable llivcr, at tlie base of Wliite- 
 face Mountain, (5,000 feet in height,) amid the wild and l)eantiful 
 scenery of th(i Adirondacks. Tlie view from Wliitelacc is ma^'niUcent 
 beyond description. Loolilnii; towards the North we behold Lalve 
 Ontario, and the brltfht waters of the distant St. Lawrence. To the 
 South the central jrroup of the A Ihondacks looms up in savage mag- 
 nificence ; to the East we behold a few little villages, while farther 
 away may be seen the Green Mountains and the broad bosom of Lake 
 Champlain, and still beyond we mark the dim outlines of the White 
 Mountains; to the West a long chain of Lakes lies full m view, and 
 at the foot of the Mountain lies Lake Placid— picture of fairy land ; 
 while upon every side you behold dense, deep forests, as fai as the 
 eye can reach. There is so much variety in the scene that all the 
 elements ol beauty and grandeur seem blended together. 
 
 This house is situated on the most direct route to Saranac Lakes. 
 In going by this route you pass the Flume, Big and Little Falls, on the 
 Ausabie. within half a mile of John Brown's Grave, and through the 
 celebrated Wilmington Pass, thai great natural wonder, of which the 
 typos have already given so many accounts. The lover of nature will 
 be charmed beyond expression by the grandeur and beauty with 
 which it is invested. More than one-fourth of a mile the Pass is only 
 of eutticient width for the passage of the carriage road and river. On 
 cither hand rise the river rocks towering almost perpendicular hun- 
 dreds of feet above you. 
 
 Stages will be in waiting at Ausabie Station ujjon the arrival of 
 trains, to convey passengers to the Whitelaco Mountain House and 
 Saranac Lakes by Wilmington Pass. Passengers going by this route 
 to Saranac Lakes can stop at the Whitel'ace Mouiuain House and 
 have an opportunity ot ascending the Mountain, and be carried for 
 the same price as if they went through direct. 
 
 Distance from this House to Saranac Lakes, 23 miles; Keone Flats, 
 14 miles; North Elba, Vi miles; Indian Pass, 18 miles; Koesevillc 
 23 miles; St llegis, :37 miles; Ausabie «Station, 13 miles; Elizabeth- 
 town, '33 miles. ~ 
 
 Boats will ba provided on the River, to accommodate the guests 
 of the House ; also, necessary attendants, at all times. 
 
 Guides, Carriages and good Saddle Horses, for ascending the Moun- 
 tain, provided at any time desired. The proprietors of the Mountaiu 
 House have erected a comfortable rustic house near the summit, ia 
 which can be obtained good board and comfortable lodging. 
 
 Parties desiring a place of summer resort will find this a** i)leasaut 
 tnd healthy locality as can be found in Northern New York. Charges 
 reasonable. No paina will be spared to render the stay of the guests 
 pleasant. Yours, very truly, 
 
 OEORGR WESTON, ». p,on,iotoi.* 
 GEOiitiE AVER, J i »«P» i^Tors, 
 
 Wilmington, N.Y. 
 
A !• I' E N D I X . 
 
 XI 11 
 
 A Popular Summer Rsjsort. 
 
 Alburgh Springis, ¥t. 
 
 The friends and patrons of tliess Springs will he pleased 
 to learn that this commodious and thoroughly appointed 
 Hotel, which will compare favorably with any in the coun- 
 try for elejjfance and comfort, will be opened for the recep- 
 tion of jruests, June 10th, 1811. 
 
 This House (which encloses in its grounds the principal 
 Springs) is located near the banks of the beautiful Missis(iuoi 
 Bay, Lake Champlain, sixteen miles north from St. Albans 
 and ten miles t^ast from Houses' Point, on tha line of the 
 Vermont Central K. K. The depot is within one mile of 
 the House, and the Carriage.3, and attentive porters of the 
 Hotel are always in attendance. 
 
 The lake and mountain scenery U picturesque and grand. 
 The facilities for boating, shooting and fishing render this 
 region peculiarly attractive to Artists, Sportsmen and Plea- 
 sure-seekers. The proprietor has made arrangements with 
 the favorite Excursion Steamer " A. Williams," to make 
 Excursion trips among the beautiful Islands in the vicinity, 
 or to Plattsburgh and the great Ausable Chasm twice a week 
 if parties so desire. These famous Lithia and Sulphur Springs 
 are now esteemed by the Medical profession as th.e most 
 valuable in America in point of Medicinal and Curative pro- 
 perties. 
 
 The Bathing facilities are good ; a large and commodious 
 Bath House at the Springs furnishes both Hot and Cold baths 
 of the Lithia and Sulphur Waters. (For lull particulars see 
 pam])hlets.) 
 
 The Drives in the immediate vicinity i>resent the greatest 
 attractions. Horses, Carriages and Boats, with guides, al- 
 ways at commmid of guests. 
 
 Where the Alburgh Springs Water can be obtained, 
 
 Messrs. Hiirr it I'l'i ry, Hi Trcnioiit 8t., Boston. Messrs. Rust, Broc. 
 A Bh'd, 4-1 Hanover St., Boston. At eorner of Bromtield and Wash- 
 jngton ISls.. on (h'iuii^lit and by tlic ease. Hoyt & Blanehard, 20.3 Green- 
 wich St. New York. Dr. Hubbard Foster, 81 Franklin St., Buffalo, 
 N. Y. Dr. llenrv Fosfr. C'lil'ton Springs, N. Y. Messrs. Johnson, 
 Ilolloway & Cowdin, (m Arch St., Philadolphia, Penn. V,. V. Fisko, 
 219 South ("lark St., (!hieajj;o, 111. Messrs. Farrand, Sherluy & 4Jo., 
 Detroit, Mich. William VVasten, Port Huron, Mich, 
 
 Of the Proprietor, 
 
 WILLARl) SEARS, No. 14i Washin-,'ton St., Boston, JtfaHS. 
 
 And at AlburL,di Springs of [>, S. CUTTINCy Mauager, 
 Of wliotn Rooms nifiy bo engaijed in advance. 
 
m 
 
 II 
 
 'I i 
 
 i 
 
 '"I 
 
 :SS 
 
 1 ' 
 
 
 XIV 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 S. & R. S. WIRES' 
 
 General Insurance Agency, 
 Corner of Charch and College Streets, 
 
 Burlington, Vermont 
 
 •-♦♦♦— 
 
 Capital Represented, -^80,000,000. 
 
 -♦♦♦-••- 
 
 Fire and Marine Insurance to any amount eftected in rc- 
 tponsible Companies on the most satisfactory terms, 
 
 This A(.i>'Mrif was cMnbUsUed in 1846. 
 
A P r E N D I X . 
 
 XV 
 
 t^mM Mfj f Mma 
 
 2) 
 BXJRLIIVOTOIV, VT. 
 
 Recently enlarged and iiii proved. 
 
 H. H. HOWE & 00., 
 
 Proprietors. 
 
 A large and extensive livery establislur.ent in connection 
 with this house. 
 
 Western Union Telegrsiph Office and Ticket Offices for 
 the various lines of Railway and tSteaniboat, in the House.j 
 
 Corner of Main and St. Paul Streets, 
 
 BURLIIVOTOIV, VT- 
 
 This House is the largest in Burlington, and will rank as 
 one of the most convenient and thorouglily constructed 
 Houses in New England. Its location is in the centre of 
 the city, standing on the site of the " Old Howard Hotel." 
 The House fronts on the park, and commands an unob- 
 structed view of Lake Champlain, the Adirondack and 
 Green Mountains and other picturesque scenery. Tiie Fur- 
 nishing of the house are all new and modern. The proprie- 
 tors, having had many years experience in the business, feel 
 confident that they can cater successfully to the require- 
 ments of the travelling public. Guests may rely upon re- 
 ceiving courteous attention and being supplied with all the 
 comforts ot a first class house. 
 
 A Billiard Hall, Barlier's Sliop and Batli Room 
 
 are connected witli the House. Carriages for the Van Ness 
 House will attend the arrival of all the trains and boats. 
 
 DANIEL C. BARBER, 
 OSCAR B. FERGUSON, 
 
 Proprietors. 
 
 Ao li A Sf tJ 
 
 S) 
 
 ST. PAUL STREET, 
 
 BI^RLINGTON, VT. 
 
 Pleasure Parties can at all times be supplied with first- 
 class '• turn-outs ;" also experienced and careful drivers. 
 
*'• ffl 
 

 '^.^.. 
 
 .0^. "*.^ 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 11.25 
 
 Li 1^8 
 
 us 
 
 lit 
 
 u 
 
 12.2 
 
 Vi |2|0 
 
 
 ^>. 
 
 y 
 
 Hiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 ^' 
 
 •^ 
 
 \ 
 
 ,v 
 
 <> 
 
 ^. 
 
 .«>'*.. 
 
 33 VtflST MAIN STRUT 
 
 \/nSTM,N.Y. USIO 
 
 (716)l73-4503 
 
 
 
 \ 
 

.i 
 
 XVI 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Mount MansfiGld Hotsl 
 
 Tli'H ci'l(?l)rated place of siiniriier resort iiH'onls extra in- 
 ducements to the ])ub]i(' to visit it and its snrroundinpjs. 
 Board will I.e at a reduced price in luiruK.ny with the down- 
 ward tendency of values. The j^roprietors are determined 
 not to be excelled in their attention to jruej^ts, nor in cour- 
 tesy to tliem bv their ( mi>lovees. 
 
 The walks and drives cannot be surpass ,'d. Sunset Hill, 
 a short distance from the Hotel, connnands a fine view of 
 the mountains and surraundinfj: country. The drives are 
 fine — Mount Mansfield, eight miles ; Smuggler's Notch, 
 one of the most wild and romantic jilaces in the country, 
 eight miles ; Bingham's Fulls, live miles ; iSIoss (lieu Falls, 
 three and one half miles; Gold Brook, three miles ; West 
 Hill, two miles ; Morrisville Falls, eight miles ; Johnson's 
 Falls, twelve nnles ; Nebraska, six nnles. 
 
 The Mount Manslielcl is a new hotel, and has rooms for 
 four hundred guests. The rooms are airy, with good spring 
 beds ; large, and in suits or private ])arlors, as may be de- 
 sired. The hotel is brilliantly lighted with pas, made on the 
 premises, and guests will therefore not be subject to any dis- 
 agreeable smoke or sniidl from oil or canii)hene. Valuable 
 medicinal spring watei is furnished at the hotel, free of 
 charge. 
 
 An extensive livery is connected with the hotel, and abun- 
 dant stable room for those who desire their own teams ; also, 
 billiard tables, bowling-alleys, cafe, croquet grounds, and 
 tlieatre ; with telegrajdi office near the hotel. A carriage 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 XVII 
 
 el, 
 
 ift/ 
 
 xtra in- 
 .indinpfs, 
 down- 
 nil ined 
 n cour- 
 
 ;t Hill, 
 
 view of 
 ivos are 
 
 Notch, 
 •ountiy, 
 'u Falls, 
 West 
 
 inson's 
 
 ins for 
 spring 
 1)0 de- 
 on the 
 
 iny dis- 
 luablo 
 
 I roe of 
 
 1 abiin- 
 ; also, 
 s, and 
 irriage 
 
 road has been constructed to the summit of Mount Mansfield 
 (about five thousand feet high), on which is an excellent 
 hotel, making the most delightful mountain trip possible. 
 
 The route to Mt. Mansfield Hotel is via tiie Vermont Cen - 
 tral Railroad, leaving it at Waterbury Station, Vt. ; thence, 
 ten miles by stage, to Stowe, through the finest scenery in 
 the Green Mountains. 
 
 Tickets can be obtained of Lansing Millis, at Sears' Build- 
 ing, No. 65 Washington Street, Boston ; No. Astor House, 
 and all the principal hotels in New York ; Continental 
 Hotel, No. 811 Chestnut Street, and Penn. H. IJ. Offices, in 
 Philadelphia ; Phil. W. &: B. R. R. and No. Central Railway 
 ticket offices, Baltimore; N. C. Ry. and B. & O. R. R. ticket 
 officios, Penn. Ave., Washington, D. C. : Richmond, Va., and 
 ])rincipal cities South ; at International and Cataract Houses, 
 Niagara Falls ; at Saratoga Springs, and at No. i]0 Great St. 
 James Street, Montreal. Also, on board the Steamboats on 
 Lake Chaiiiplain. 
 
 ONDAAA^A HOTEL, 
 
 Schroon Lake, Essex Co., N. Y. 
 
 This popular and well established summer resort is situa- 
 ted on the shortest, most direct, commodious and picturesque 
 route from Saratoga and the South, to the Adirondack Wil- 
 derness, Mount Marcy, Indian Pass, &c., (see mai>). 
 
 Adirondack R, R. to the " New Bridge," — 5 miles by 
 coach to foot of Schroon Lake — 9 miles bv Steamer to the 
 " Ondawa," thence bv carriage to Mud Pond and Bridle 
 Path to the base of Mount Marcy, 20 miles from the Ondawa. 
 
 Schroon Lake, with the balmy air, variegated scenery and 
 picturesque surroundings, forms one of the most facinating 
 retreats, and is fast superceding Lake (Jeorge ; while the 
 Ondawa, towering above the (juiet village surrounding it, 
 beckons the tourist to a pleasant rest before entering camp 
 life among the mountain passes. In the midst of the best 
 fishing and hunting grounds, with croquet park, billiard 
 hall, Quadrille and brass band ; spacious and airy suits of 
 rooms ; venison and trout fresh from the surrounding woods 
 and waters, all conspire to render a stay pleasing to all 
 tastes and clastT^s 
 
 liivery stables attached. Charges moderate. Capacity 
 100 or more. 
 
 J. D. BURWELL, 
 
 Schroon Lake, N. V. Proprietor. 
 
XVIII 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 B' ; 
 
 ! I 
 
 PAUL SMITHES HOTEL, 
 
 This Hotel is situated at the foot of the Lower St. 
 Regis liake, on tlie head waters of the St.Regis River, and is 
 in tlie immediate vicinity of the best hunting and fishing 
 grounds in the Great Wilderness. To the south lay the 
 great chain of the Saranac Lakes and the John Brown tract. 
 To the northward there is a chain of lakes and ponds for a 
 distance of twenty miles, where there is fine fishing. To 
 the westward, the St. Regis River and innumerable lakes 
 and ponds emptying into it, which have as yet hardly been 
 visited by the sportsmen. 
 
 This house is delightfully situated in an extensive pine 
 grove, and is surrounded on all sides by the dense forest. 
 It is supplied with delicious water from Mountain Pond, a 
 distance of a quarter of a mile. It has good accommoda- 
 tions for one hundred and fifty guests. A guide and boat 
 house, with accommodations for one hundred guides and 
 boats, is connected with the hotel. 
 
 Parties going into the wildernesa to camp out, can be 
 furnished with ever/thing complete for their comfort, such 
 as tents, camp equipage, blankets, &c., which will bo leased 
 to them ; and also all kinds of stores, consisting of provi- 
 sions, canned fruits, condensed milk, coffee, &c., at satisfac- 
 tory rates, thereby saving much trouble in transporting the 
 same articles from distances. From St. Regis Lake to the 
 Saranac Lakes there are but two portages, one of a mile and 
 a quarter and the other one-eighth of a mile, where horses 
 are always kept for transporting parties across. There is a 
 Telegraph Office connected with the house. 
 
 There is an extensive livery stable connected with the 
 house. Guests, by writing or telegraphing to the proprietor 
 have good horses and carriages, and careful drivers, to meet 
 them at any point desired, and at reasonable rates. 
 
 There has been an extensive addition made to the house 
 this season, consisting of Billiard room, Bath rooms and 
 
 Barber shop. 
 
 A. A. SMITH, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
APPEN D f X 
 
 XIX 
 
 EL, 
 
 )wer St. 
 r, and is 
 fishing 
 lay the 
 ivn tract, 
 ids for a 
 ing. To 
 le lakes 
 dly been 
 
 ive pine 
 3 forest. 
 Pond, a 
 >mmoda' 
 ind boat 
 ides and 
 
 can be 
 >rt, such 
 o leased 
 
 provi- 
 satisfac- 
 ting the 
 
 to the 
 nile and 
 9 horses 
 ere is a 
 
 ith the 
 )prletor 
 to meet 
 
 house 
 ms and 
 
 I, 
 
 rietor. 
 
 1 
 
 ST 
 
 HOfELp 
 
 Permit us the liberty of calling your attention to the 
 above well-known Hotel, situated in one of the pleasantest 
 parts of the City,— on Victoria Square, — in the vicinity of 
 Public Offices, Banks, &c., which has been newly furnished, 
 and undergone numerous alterations with additions to ren- 
 der it a 
 
 f 
 
 I R ST 
 
 P 
 
 LASS 
 
 W O 
 
 TEL 
 
 In making the improvements, the Proprietors have taken 
 particular pains to 
 
 Provide every Comfort for Oaests. 
 They have fitted the house up with all the modern iiuprove- 
 ments, 
 
 BATH ROOMS and CLOSET 
 
 have been added to every floor. They feel satisfied that 
 they can offer accommodation which cannot fall to give sat- 
 isfaction to parties favoring them with their patronage. 
 
 The long experience of Messrs. Hogan and (lerJken in the 
 Hotel Business, with Mr. Mougomery as Manager, (who has 
 Acted as such in foreign countries as well as in this,) will be 
 a guarantee that the ST. JAMES will be 
 
 Second to no Hotel in the lominion. 
 
 It will be optional for parties desiring Rooms at the St. 
 James, to engage them 
 
 Witli or Witlioiit Uonx-cl, 
 
 for which the most moderate prices will be charged. 
 
XX 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 i^' 
 
 M 
 
 I: 
 
 Montreal, Dominion of Canada. 
 
 TJie undersigned respectfully inform their numerous 
 friends and patrons in Canada, and the United States, that, 
 by the recent enh\rgement and improvements effected in this 
 establishment, they are now ])repared to accommodate over 
 850 guests. The Ottawa Hotel covers the entire space of 
 ground running? between St. James and Notre Dame Sts., 
 and has two beautiful fronts ; the one on the light, represents 
 the front on >iotre Dame St., and the other on the left, the 
 St. James St. front. The house has been thoroughly refitted 
 and furnished with every reju^ard to comfort and luxury ; 
 and has hot and cold water baths acd closets on each floor. 
 The aim has been to make this the most unexceptionable 
 first-class hotel in Montreal. Messrs. Burnett & Mather 
 trust that their long: experience in fir?t-clas3 hotels in New 
 York City and the United States, will give confidence to 
 their frends and the travelling public that they will receive 
 every comfort and attention at the Ottawa. 
 
 Carriages, with attentive drivers, can be had at all times 
 by application at the office; coaches will also be found at 
 the Railway depot and Steamboat Landing on the arrival 
 of the several trains and Steamers. 
 
 BURNETT & MATHER, 
 
 Proprietors. 
 
 1>. C. Burnett, late proprietor of Woodruflf House, Water, 
 town, N. Y. St. James Hotel Montreal. E. C. Mather, 
 late of Barnum's Hotel, Baltimore, Md. 
 
A i» r E N D r X . 
 
 XXI 
 
 
 numerous 
 atfs, that, 
 ted in this 
 (date over 
 
 si)ace of 
 me Sts., 
 represents 
 
 left, the 
 y refitted 
 
 luxury ; 
 ich floor. 
 
 )tionable 
 Mather 
 
 in New 
 dence to 
 
 I receive 
 
 all times 
 bund at 
 3 arrival 
 
 rietors. 
 
 J, Water, 
 Mather, 
 
 5T, LAWRENCE HALL, 
 
 
 ■:!'f^t1fftT 
 
 
 SITUATED ON ST. JAMES STREET, 
 
 J» 
 
 H. HOGAN, 
 
 ProiDnetcr. 
 
 This first-class hotel (the larjjcst in Montreal) is situated 
 on St. James Street, in the immediate vicinity of the French 
 Cathedral, or Church " Ville Mari(\" Notre Dame Street, 
 adjoining the Post Office, Place d'Armes and Banks ; is only 
 one minute's walk from (ircy or Black Nunneries, new 
 Court House, lieadinii: Uooms, Champ de Mars, (where tlie 
 troops are revie\v(>d), Mechanics' Institute, Bonsccours Mar- 
 ket, and Fashionable Stores. The new Theatre Koval is di- 
 rectly in rear of the House, and several of the best boxes are 
 regularly kept forUuests of this Hotel. 
 
 The St. Lawrence Hall has lon<^ been regaid(>d as the 
 most popular and fashionable Hotel in Montreal, and is pa- 
 tronized by the Government on all public occasions, includ- 
 ing that of the visit of His Boyal Highness the Prince of 
 Wales and suite, and that of His Excellency the Governor 
 General and suite. During the past winter, the Hotel has 
 been considerably enlarged, so that in future the Proprietor 
 hopes to be able to accommodate comfortably all who 
 may favor him with their patronage. All Kooms light- 
 ed by gas. The Consulnte Olfice of the United States is in 
 the Hotel, as well as Telegraph OlHce to all parts. The 
 Proprietor begs to announce that having recently purchased 
 the St. Lawrence Hall property, it is his intention next fill 
 to pull down and rebuild it with all the modern improve- 
 ments, including an Elevator ; thus making this Hotel 
 second to none in the United States. 
 
! 
 
 li 
 
 XXII 
 
 A r 1> £ N D I X 
 
 BARTLETFS HOTEL. 
 
 This vrell-known house is pleasantly situated upon the 
 portaf^e between Round Lake and the Upper Saranac, and 
 is on the regular route to Racquette, Long and other lakes, 
 visited by pleasure seekers and si)ortsmen. This house is 
 located in the vicinity of good hunting and fishing- grounds. 
 Guides and boats can always be furnished at this place to 
 guests. Tents, camp equipage, blankets, kept on hand to 
 let to parties, and stores of all kinds desirable to take into 
 the Wilderness, can be procured at satisfactory rates. This 
 house is located 12 miles above Martin's hotel, the terminus 
 of the stage route. A line of four-horse stages has been 
 placed upon the route, running from Point of Rocks Station 
 on the Whitehall & Plattsburgh railroad. Transportation 
 from Martin's is by boat. Through tickets by railroad and 
 stage to Martin's, can be procured at all regular ticket 
 offices, upon the lake Champlain steamers, and at Fowjuet's 
 Hotel, Plattsburgh, N. Y. Telegraph dispatches will be 
 forwarded from the office at Martin's hotel with dispatch. 
 
 V. 0. BARTLETT, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 SAEANAC and ST. REGIS LAKES. 
 
 Mail Stages leave Keeseville and Au Sable River Station 
 doily for Martin's, Bartlett's and St. Regis. Leave Keeet 
 ville at 6i A. M. and Ausable River Station at 8i A. M. 
 
 Returning, leave Saranac Lakes at 7 A. M., and connect- 
 ing with the train at Ausable River Station at 4i P. M. 
 
 Stages leave Ausable River Station Tuesdays, Thursdays 
 and Saturdays, for Martin's and Bartlett's, via Whiteface 
 Mountain, Wilmington Pass, North Elba and Lake Placid. 
 Returning intermediate days. 
 
 Passengers taken expeditiously and safely to any part of 
 the country, and the guests of the AUSABLE HOUSE can 
 at all times be provided with a turn-out to visit the Chasm, 
 and other natural curiosities and interesting scenery in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 CiT' Teams always on hand to convey passengers to the 
 Saranac Lakes and St. Regis, secured by letter or telegraph, 
 and on terms that will be perfectly satisfactory. 
 
 CSr Livery Establishment, Stable and Barns at Ausable 
 House, Keeseville, N. Y. 
 
 WILLIAM HARPER. 
 
A I' !• E N D I X 
 
 xxiir 
 
 FULLER'S 
 
 I^I^^JEIt^ 
 
 ^r- 
 
 ^r 
 
 x^^ni^ii:. 
 
 Two doors south of the Tremont House, 
 
 MAIN STREET, ST. ALBANS, YT. 
 
 Nothin<r but the l)est of stock in liorsps and carriages of 
 all styles, kept at this establishment. 
 
 WM. & E. D. FULLER, 
 
 Proprietors. 
 
 ST^aB amCJETES 
 
 Hetwccn Port Koit, A Uindble Chasm and /vecseviUe, 
 and betireoi Kccseville and Pent Station. 
 
 The subscriber will run elegant carriages in connection 
 with the steamers and trains. Extra carriages will at all 
 times convey parties to and from the boat and cars.or Chasm, 
 when requested by letter or telegram. His livery stable 
 will at all hours supply horses and carriages, and he will be 
 always prv-^pared to furnish livery or freight teams, with 
 superior r .'!iveyauces and careful drivers to convey passen- 
 gers in any direction. R. H. FULLER. 
 
 Keesevillto, N. Y. 
 
 HO^WARD & CO., 
 
 VILAS' BUNK BLOCK, 
 
 PLATTSBUR&H, N, T. 
 
 Photographic views of all the places of Interest on Lake 
 Champlain, Lake George, Chazy and Saranac Lakes; also of 
 Smith's at the St. Regis Lakes. 
 
 Portrait, Group and all the various styles of Portraiture of 
 the day, in the highest stvle of the art. -^ 
 
 HOWARD & 00. 
 
XXIV 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 :©lfW]BHAl 
 
 A 
 
 TELEGRAPH 
 
 coniiPANir, 
 
 3: 
 
 HUGH ALLEN, President. ) vr f 1 
 
 JAMES DAKEllS, Secketahy. \ ^^'^^}^^^^^^ 
 CHARLES BOURNE, Tueasukek. ) ^ * ^• 
 
 H. P. DWICHT, Gen. Supt., Toronto, Ont. 
 
 The Montreal Telegraph Company are now working over 
 
 TwdvG Thousand Milss of Wire* 
 
 The same Company will, durinj? the curient year, erect 
 seven hundred and sixty miles of Poles, nearly all for new 
 extensions, into remote parts of the country, and some two 
 thousand miles of new wires, o])enin<r at the same time 
 nearly one thousand new offices. 
 
 During the past year this Company liave extended their 
 wires into the Wilderness of the Adirondacks, establishing 
 offices at Paul Smith's, St. Regis Lakes ; W. F. Martin's, 
 Saranac Lakes ; MLlote Baker'.s, Bloomingdal^, and Frank- 
 lin Falls. It is expected during the coming season, that the 
 wires will be extended to White Face Mountain, Wilming- 
 ton, N. Y., and Lake Placid. This, with the wires now in 
 operation to Elizabethtown, N. Y., and the Au Sable Chasm, 
 at Keeseville, N. Y., completes the link of communication to 
 all points of interest. 
 
 The offices at the Adirondacks work direct with all parts 
 of the United States and Canadas, and enables tourists to be 
 in daily communication with their friends. Parties visiting 
 the Lakes can secure good accommodations and conveyan- 
 ces in advance by telegraphing either of the above houses. 
 
lPH 
 
 f Montreal, 
 
 f I'. Q. 
 
 3nto, Ont. 
 
 w working over 
 
 Wire* 
 
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 irly all for new 
 
 and some two 
 
 the same time 
 
 extended their 
 ws, establishing 
 ^V. F. Martin's, 
 il^, and Frank- 
 season, that the 
 tain, VVilming. 
 wires now in 
 u Sable Chasm, 
 nmunication to 
 
 ' with all parts 
 8 tourists to be 
 ^arties visitinsr 
 md conveyan- 
 above houses. 
 
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