VISIT TO CANADA 
 
 AND THB 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 AL30 A 
 
 SECOND YISIT TO SPAIN. 
 
 Br JOHN GADSBY, 
 
 Author of "A Visit to Spaix in 1870," ** "SVandeiunos is 
 
 THE East," &c. &c. 
 
 W^-WV %w % t. 
 
 LONDON: 
 GADSBY, 18, BOUVEEIE STBEUT, E.C. 
 
 1873. 
 Price SisipenCCi 
 

 LONDOX : 
 
 CLAYTON AXD CO., tkmi'm; rrrxTn,-a avorks, 
 
 BOUVKRIK STRKKT, WIIITEFKIARH. 
 
 
v.^ 110 ^IT- 
 SPAIN. 
 
 ♦ii„ 
 
 Accompanied by my friend Mr. Eden, I left South- 
 ampton by the "Ebro," for Lisbon, on Feb. 24th, 1878. 
 My plan was to arrive at Lisbon on the 28th, or there- 
 abouts, to proceed thence to Coimbra and Oporto, return 
 to Lisbon, catch the steamer there for Cadiz on March 
 5th, stay at Cadiz a day or two, and arrive at Seville 
 on the 8th, so as to visit the various Protestant places 
 of worship and schools there on the 9th and 10th. Very 
 much to my surprise and annoyance, however, I found, - 
 when too late, that, without any notification to the pas- 
 sengers, our captain had been ordered to put into San- 
 tander, on the S.E. coast of the Bay of Biscay, having 
 on board bar gold to the value of£526,000,tobe forwarded 
 thence by rail to Madrid. Though this was not, perhaps, 
 more than 300 miles both ways out of our course, it 
 caused a delay of at least four days, and frustrated my 
 plans, as I shall shortly show. 
 
 On leaving Southampton we were surrounded with 
 snow, and as a fog appeared we were compelled to cast 
 anchor off Cowes. During the night our anchor cable 
 snapped in two, and we had to put back to Southampton 
 for another, as well as another anchor, the other being 
 lost. 
 
 The weather was stormy^ but we passed Ushant about 
 noon on the 26th, and, humanly speaking, should have 
 easily reached Lisbon on the 28th, had we gone direct, the 
 wind not then being against us. But in the Bay the sea 
 was indeed ** wild." I never saw it anything like it be- 
 fore, except once in the Gulf of Lyons, and have no desire 
 to see it again. We made very little way ; so that, in- 
 stead of being at Lisbon on the 28th, the light of San- 
 tander was not seen until 4 a.m. on that day. The cap- 
 tain would not venture in, so turned to face the wind. 
 About 6 a.m. on March 1st we were again, as the captain 
 supposed, off Santander, and signalled for a pilot ; but 
 none came out. Then, at 8 o'clock, on taking their ob- 
 servations, the officers discovered that they were 50 miles 
 W. of Santander. So off we went again. 
 
 58183 
 
J. gadsby's 
 
 The view was sublime, lofty mountains covered with 
 snow, hill sides studded with houses, and a most tem- 
 pestuous sea. 
 
 In six hours we did arrive at Santander, and were just 
 going in, when a full gale, nay a tempest, nay a hurricane 
 sprang up, and it seemed as much as we could do to hold 
 our own and not be driven ashore. This over, a pilot 
 came out, and in we went. 
 
 But now we were to have another trouble. A tug came 
 off for the gold, and, by some means or other, got its 
 rope round our screw. This detained us until 5 p.m. the 
 next day. A diver had to be procured ; but he, after 
 being down for some time, proved useless. Our boat- 
 swain then put on the diving dress, and succeeded in cut- 
 ting the rope. A subscription was got up for him, and 
 we raised about £8. 
 
 There is a Protestant cause at Santander; but we 
 could not go on shore. 
 
 Strong head winds now prevailed. We made very 
 little way. The captain had orders to call at Corunna 
 for emigrants ; but he would not attempt it. Until we 
 turned into the Tagus, there was little or no cessation of 
 the rough weather, all which we should have escaped, 
 had it not been for Santander. 
 
 Suffice it to say, we did not arrive at Lisbon until the 
 5th of March, and the steamer by which, after visiting 
 Oporto, &c., I had hoped to go to Cadiz, was gone. 
 
 The captain was everything the passengers could de- 
 sire, and the attention of the stewards was equally satis- 
 factory. The table was served a la Continent ; and this 
 suited most of the passengers, many being Spaniards; 
 but for my part I greatly prefer the good old English 
 fashion, as followed in the Peninsular and Oriental Co.'s 
 boats on the Mediterranean. 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 We put up at Steed's English Hotel, and found it com- 
 fortable. Having refreshed ourselves, and inquired 
 about steamers, railways, &c., we visited Br. Doddridge's 
 grave, in the British cemetery. Having diseased lungs, 
 the Dr. went to Lisbon to escape an English winter; but 
 the time for his departure had arrived. The original in- 
 scription on the tomb simply says, '< Philip Doddridge. 
 
SECOND VISIT TO SrAIN. 
 
 Died Oct., 1751." But on a monument is the following: 
 "Philip Doddridge, D.D., died 26th Oct., 1751; aged 
 60. With high respect for his character and writings, 
 this monument was erected in June, 1828, at the expense 
 of Thomas Taylor, of all his numerous pupils the only 
 one then living." 
 
 The Dr. has now been dead upwards of a century ; but 
 that sweet hymn of his : 
 
 "Jesus, I love thy charming name," 
 lives, and will live, I believe, while the world stands. 
 that my heart were always in full tune to sing it ! 
 
 The United Presbyterians of Scotland recently pur- 
 chased a suppressed convent at Lisbon for £1,G00. In 
 this, services are regularly held, about 70 or 80 native 
 Portuguese attending. Mr. Stewart is the minister; 
 but he was in England, begging to pay off the debt. 
 His assistant, Mr. Eoss, paid us every attention. We 
 went over the premises, — cells, corridors, halls, kitchen, 
 dining-room, church, &c. The sum paid for it was very 
 low. They contemplate having schools; but lack the 
 necessary funds. Their colporteur was imprisoned 
 eleven days at Setubal, about 30 miles from Lisbon, for 
 selling false Bibles. And what were these "false 
 Bibles," as they termed them? Those issued by the 
 Trinitarian Bible Society. It is well known, and I 
 have felt it to be my duty several times to publish the 
 fact, that the British and Foreign Bible Society have 
 some editions of the Bible which are truly Eomanist. 
 For instance: Gen. iii. 15 is translated, **She shall 
 bruise thy head." 1 Tim. iii. 16 : " Great is the sacra- 
 ment of piety." Matt. iii. 3 : " Do penance." Luke xiii. 3 : 
 "Except ye do penance," &c. 2 Pet. i. 10: "Make your 
 calling and election sure by good works." And so on. 
 In the Old Testament, where we read, " The priest shall 
 make an atonement for him," the B. & F. Bible Society's 
 translation reads, " The priest shall pray for him," — 
 the prayer of mortal man being substituted for the typical 
 atonement. Exod. xxxi. 15, the latter half of the verse 
 is omitted altogether : so also other passages. 1 Peter 
 V. 6 is thus rendered: "Ye others that are young, be 
 subject to the priests." 
 
 Soon after the Revolution in Spain, the Society sent 
 over 10,000 copies of their Bomanist version; but the 
 
9 J. GADSBY*S 
 
 Spaniards would not have them; and what may be 
 said of Spain may also, I believe, be said of Portugal. 
 It is said that they (i.e., the B. & F. B. Society) have 
 no Protestant edition at all of the Old Testament in Portu- 
 guese, while they have two editions of the Komanist one ; 
 and also, that though they have a Protestant edition of 
 the Gospels in Portuguese, the price is one shilling, while 
 the price of the Eomanist editions is only fourpence. 
 The Society is licensed by the Portuguese Government to 
 sell their Bibles in Portugal, but the Trinitarian Society 
 is not licensed ; so the poor colporteur was imprisoned for 
 selling "false Bibles." Only a short time ago I read of 
 two men who were in a church in which was a repre- 
 sentation of Mary treading on the serpent's head. One 
 said that was wrong. ''No," the other said; "it is 
 right. Here is the Bible (the B. & F. B. Society's edi- 
 tion), which says so." 
 
 In the Don Pedro Square is a theatre, which stands 
 upon the site of the Inquisition. I believe the power 
 only is wanted to make the site again a theatre of blood. 
 
 Few ruins of the earthquake, described by Whitefield, 
 in his little tract, "Whitefield at Lisbon," are to be 
 seen ; but some remain. 
 
 The library is well worth a visit. It contains alto- 
 gether about 300,000 vols., including between 8000 and 
 9000 in MS., the whole taken from suppressed monas- 
 teries. There is also a copy of the first edition of the 
 Bible ever printed, and the first Portuguese one in 1495. 
 
 Few priests are to be seen. The Government pays 
 them, and they are paid so badly that they are ashamed 
 to show themselves in "full dress." 
 
 Lisbon is a fine city. The streets are clean, mostly 
 well paved, and hilly. 
 
 LISBON TO SEVILLE. .. 
 
 It was indispensable that I should be at Seville by the 
 9th, otherwise half my mission would have been lost. 
 It is true, I could have visited the places of worship, &c., 
 on the 16th as well as on the 9 th; but I had to give 
 evidence before a Parliamentary Committee in London, 
 and was compelled to push on for Barcelona, where I 
 expected letters to say when I should be required. 
 Finding, therefore, after making every inquiry, that there 
 
 ".^ 
 
SECOND VISIT TO SPAIN. 7 
 
 would be no steamer from Lisbon before the th, we were 
 compelled to take the rail through liadajos.Mansanares, 
 and Cordova, travelling 40 consecutive hours, except 
 when at Mansanares, where wo were detained in a com- 
 fortless room with wooden seats for six hours. It was, 
 indeed, hard fare, and such as we had not anticipated. 
 
 From Lisbon to Badajos we passed numerous olive 
 groves, and then well-cultivated plains; but we saw no 
 vines till wo came to Garraville. It would be absurd to 
 suppose that the grapes were grown in Portugal, of which 
 all the wine called port, or Oporto, is made. Indeed, 
 several years ago, I saw a report of Professor Letheby, 
 the City of Loudon analyst, in which he said he had ana- 
 lyzed twelve samples of port wine, and there was not a 
 drop of the juice of the grape in any one of them. 
 
 The hill sides, as we passed along, were covered with 
 olives, oil growing, as it were, out of the flinty rock. 
 
 At Linares, on the morning of the 8th, an Englishman, 
 who is engaged in the mines in that locality, came into 
 our compartment. The whole country is rich in mines. 
 There is a Baptist place of worship at Linares, of which 
 I may speak more fully anon. We soon afterwards 
 passed Alcolca, where the battle was fought under Gene- 
 rals Prim and Berrano on the one hand, and Queen 
 Isabella's troops on the other, which ended in the over- 
 throw and flight of that poor despicable woman, and led 
 to what is now transpiring in Spain. 
 
 The scenery hereabouts, as the Guadalquiver winds 
 its course, is picturesque. But it is not my intention to 
 say much about scenery. We did not go out merely to 
 see hills and dales, mountains and vales, seas and rivers, 
 but to ascertain facts as to the progress of Protestantism 
 in that unhappy land. 
 
 Having partaken of some refreshment at Cordova, 
 we left by train, and arrived at Seville about 6.30 in the 
 evening of the 8th, sorely fatigued, not having been able 
 to lie down nor even to have a wash from the time of 
 leaving Lisbon, excepting once when I gave a copper to 
 have li glass of water poured on to my hands. 
 
 ' SEVILLE. 
 
 Early in the morning (Sunday) we called at Mr. Tug- 
 well's, he being the oldest Protestant minister in the 
 
8 J. oassby's 
 
 city, and I havinpf seen him when in Seville in 1870. We 
 found he was in England on account of his health, and 
 a Mr. Doowell was superintending for him. From him 
 we obtained the particulars of Mr. T.'s services and 
 schools. We then went to see Mr. Duncan, who had 
 been recently sent out by the Edinburgh Spanish So- 
 ciety, to superintend their schools, &c. Afterwards we 
 attended service in English at Mr. Tugwell's. There 
 were about 40 present. 
 
 Mr. T. has three churches for Spanish services in 
 different parts of the city, and was in treaty for a fourth 
 place, in another part; all, I believe, suppressed Eo- 
 manist churches or convents. Accompanied by a friend 
 of Mr. Duncan's, I after service went to see one, — San 
 Bassilia church and convent. The church is a most 
 commodious place, well fitted up, and supported by 
 pillars. The pillars alone are said to be worth all the 
 money paid for the place, viz., £1,000, to be paid in in- 
 stalments extending over 14 years, — and paid for, too, 
 in Government Bonds, which were then worth only 70 
 or 72, instead of 100, and which are just now worth 
 much less, in consequence of the disturbed state of the 
 country. 
 
 Seiior Palomares had been preaching; but service was 
 over. He is with Mr. Tugwell. There is also Seiior 
 Aguelera, who is said to be "a great preacher." There 
 are in this church 165 registered as of the congregation 
 who are too poor to pay anything, and 56 who pay a 
 little in aid of the sick. The idolatrous altar has given 
 place to a primitive communion-table, without any of 
 the Eitualistic buffoonery we see in England.* In the 
 school there were only 13 present, none of the Sunday 
 schools being well attended. The teachers were Spa- 
 niards. The mothers or other adult friends of the 
 children were waiting till school closed to take the 
 children home, as in Seville and other parts of Spain 
 it is not considered respectable or safe for children to 
 
 * Some time ago I read in the papers that a person took 
 his son to St. Alban's, London. Seeing the actors, in full 
 dress, the boy, who had visited pantomimes, said, " Father, 
 where is the clown?" He saw the harlequin and other cha- 
 racters, and wondered where the clown was. It is awful to 
 see such things in the name of worship. ■ <«> ,r 
 
SECOND nan to spain. 
 
 be seen in the streets alone. The children sang a hymn, 
 commencing, literally translated : "I am nothing; but 
 would be humble before thee, Lord." 
 
 The master and his wife live in the old convent part 
 of the premises. The wife has charge of an infant 
 school. « 
 
 We then went to the church of San Francisco da 
 Paola, which had been purchased by the Scotch. It is 
 considerably larger than San Bassilia. There is a debt 
 upon it, which I should be glad to see paid off. It 
 would have been, had it not been for the extravagant 
 way in which it is fitted up and other circumstances of 
 which the committee in Edinburgh knew nothing, most 
 of the money sent for the purpose of paying for the 
 place having, I was told, been applied to other purposes, 
 much to the surprise and grief of the committee. It is 
 now called the Church of the Holy Trinity, the form of 
 worship being the same as in the Church of Scotland. It 
 is in the Plaza de Catarras. The altar here has given 
 place to a pulpit, fixed on the marble steps which for- 
 merly led to the altar. There is a Sunday school here 
 also ; but it is in its infancy. 
 
 Thence we went to another of Mr. T.'s schools in Garci 
 Peres. Here were 12 boys present, and these, as well 
 as the children in the other schools, seemed most atten- 
 tive and decorous. There was a volunteer policeman at 
 the door. He had a boy in the school, and, unpaid, was 
 keeping the boys outside quiet. 
 
 I inquired particularly, and was assured that no 
 Catechism was taught in any of the schools, except a 
 purely biblical one. 
 
 In the evening, Mr. Doowell called at the hotel, to 
 take me to the Scotch church, to hear the celebrated 
 Senor Cabrera. The rain came down heavily, and the 
 streets were in some parts nearly ankle deep. I got one 
 shoe half full of water. Despite the rain, there were about 
 150 male adults present, though not many females. 
 The singing was fair ; but not equal to what I heard at 
 Madrid, as stated in my former little work on Spain. 
 Senor Cabrera read Zech. xiii.; Matt, xxvi., commenc- 
 ing verse 80; and Luke xxii., commencing verse 31. 
 The hymn was on the Holy Spirit. Text, Matt. xxvi. 
 80, 81. The congregation was really a respectable one, 
 
 a2 
 
10 J. gadsby's 
 
 judging from their dress, and all were most attentive, 
 especially during prayer. Of course I knew not what 
 Sen. 0. said ; but he was evidently a powerful preacher. 
 
 Senor Cabrera was a Eomanist priest; but having 
 seen the errors of that Church, had to flee from Spain 
 in 1868. At the Revolution, he returned with Seiiors 
 Alhama and Hernandez, after an interview with General 
 Prim, the general saying, ''You may return to your 
 country by the first steamer, and you are at liberty to 
 enter Spain with your Bibles under your arm, to preach 
 its doctrines." 
 
 I was sorry that Mr. Eden was too unwell to accom- 
 pany me. The next day, however, he was suflficiently 
 recovered to go the round of the day schools. We found 
 them all in good order, and all, to my mind, promising 
 well. There are, I believe, in the aggregate, about 400 
 scholars in Seville, and all well deserve encouraging. 
 
 Having finished the schools and visited the two 
 churches already referred to, our guide took us to the 
 cathedral, which I saw iu 1870, and to the Due de Mont- 
 pensier's palace. The duke is one of the late Louis Phi- 
 lippe's sons, and married the sister of Queen Isabella. 
 He is one claimant to the Spanish throne, Isabella's son 
 Alphonse is another, and Don Carlos is another. If 
 the Eepublicans are to retain power, they will have to 
 silence all three. Probably the duke may give up in 
 favour of Alphonse. The exterior of the duke's palace is 
 plain enough; but the interior, decorative and orna- 
 mental, surpasses everything we have in England. 
 
 From Seville we had hoped to go to Madrid, and thence 
 to Barcelona, by way of Saragossa ; but we learnt that 
 the rails at Saragossa had been taken up and the sta- 
 tions burnt by Carlists. Then we essayed to go to Bar- 
 celona by rail by way of Valencia ; but chere also the Car- 
 lists had been at work. Mr. Fenn, whom we 3ubsequently 
 saw at Barcelona, told us he went to Madrid by way of 
 Valencia, and found a considerable number of soldiers 
 in the train, the Carlists having, only the day before, de- 
 stroyed a bridge, and detained the passengers in the cold 
 all night, far from any dwelling. Our only way, there- 
 fore, was to go to Cadiz, thence by steamer to Gibraltar, 
 and thence either to return home by the Peninsular and 
 Oriental Company's boats, or by way of Marseilles. 
 
SECOND VISIT TO SPAIN. 11 
 
 I may here state that, the Government not being strong 
 enough to prevent it, the railway companies have to pay 
 the Carlists "black mail," so much a month, to allow 
 the trains to run. The Carlists were mainly led on by a 
 priest, named Santa Cruz, or Holy Cross. Accounts of 
 his atrocious conduct were published in the papers. 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 We arrived at Cadiz about 11 o'clock at night on 
 March 10th, and went to the Hotel Cadiz, — not very 
 comfortable, but very dear. 
 
 The next morning we called upon Mr. Murray, sent 
 out by the Edinburgh Spanish Society. He took us 
 first to see Senor Hernandez and then Mr. Ben Oliel, 
 the former connected with the Edinburgh Society, and 
 the latter with the United Presbyterians of Scotland. 
 Seiior H. has a congregation and a school. Both had 
 been large; but a man named Escudero, from Mexico, 
 who had been assisting him, turned out wrong, and was 
 imprisoned, I was informed, for having forged papers, 
 to the effect that ho had been a priest when he had not. 
 He was bailed out, and was preaching against Seiiior H. 
 when I was there, having drawn away many, both con- 
 gregation and scholars. The former had, indeed, con- 
 sisted of 438, but had been reduced to 40 or 50, though 
 it was then looking up again. The prayer meetings on 
 Thursday evenings were still attended by about 48. 
 
 Mr. Ben Oliel had a good school and a neat church. 
 It had been, I believe, a cqf^ chantant, or singing coffee- 
 house, with gallery, &c. He also had suffered through 
 Escudero; but his schools had suffered more through 
 the mistaken economy of the committee in Scotland. 
 I have already said it was not respectable or safe for 
 children to be in the streets alone ; therefore on week 
 days persons were employed to go round from house to 
 house and collect the children, taking them in bodies to 
 the schools. We met several of these groups. The 
 committee did not see any necessity for this, and with- 
 held the allowance. The consequence was a falling off, 
 if I recollect rightly, of more than half. The Eomanists, 
 too, had been at work. They opened a subscription, and 
 had raised about £70 or £80 a month, besides clothes, 
 &c., to pay the children, directly and indirectly, to 
 
12 J. gadsby's 
 
 attend their schook. They took about 40 away from 
 Mr. Ben Oliel's ; but some of them had returned. 
 
 In June, 1871, on the Pope's anniversary, the priests 
 had the street in which the church and schools are 
 situated illuminated and decorated with flags, borrowed 
 from other parts, and bills were issued against Mr. Ben 
 Oliel. He applied to the governor, and was protected. 
 In the evening, notwithstanding the stir, he preached, 
 and the place was crowded. Indeed, such exhibitions 
 could have no other effect than that of sending people 
 to see and hear for themselves. 
 
 These things may be taken as a fair specimen of 
 what has occurred and is occurring in various parts of 
 the country. 
 
 In 1871, also, the priests issued a clerical paper 
 weekly : *' Who are these Protestants ? Are they pastors, 
 or are they wolves?" Mr. Ben Oliel took up the sub- 
 ject, saying, " We do this, and the priests do that," 
 pointing out some of the doings of both. " Now," said 
 he, "who are the wolves?" 
 
 Mr. Ben Oliel is a converted Jew ; and he told me ho 
 had been the means of the conversion of three brothers 
 and two sisters. His youngest brother is pastor over the 
 people (Baptist) at Linares, another brother in Algeria, 
 and another in the Church of England, at Addiscombe, 
 Surrey. 
 
 We found, on inquiry, that there was no steamer to 
 leave Cadiz before the 13th, and that was for Gibraltar; 
 BO we decided upon going by it. But, behold, instead 
 of coming to Cadiz, it had gone back from Gibraltar to 
 Malaga to fetch the refugees, as many families were 
 fleeing to Gibraltar in consequence of the disturbances 
 at Malaga, the people there having disarmed the sol- 
 diers and taken the protection of the town into their 
 own hands. Some of the people in Cadiz, while we were 
 there, thought they could do the same, and went to the 
 barracks to demand a surrender; but the colonel took a 
 paper out of his pocket, and said he had orders from 
 the Government to shoot the first man that dared to 
 ask such a thing. Upon this the " deputation" retired; 
 but in the evening, as we went to service at Mr. Ben 
 Oliel's church, some of the streets were all alive. 
 
 I was very anxious to get to Baroeloua, as X expected 
 
SECOND VISIT TO SPAIN. 13 
 
 letter's there to say when I should be wanted at West- 
 minster, as I have already stated, and there now seemed 
 to be only one course open, viz., to take the steamer 
 " Segovia " to Barcelona on the 14th, calling at all the 
 towns on the coast, and occupying eight or nine days. 
 This was tedious, but there was no help for it; and in 
 the end it turned out right. 
 
 As the steamer was to leave early in the morning, we 
 went on board over night. I had heard much of the 
 utter want of cleanliness in the Spanish boats, and had 
 calculated upon all sorts of annoyances. But I was 
 agreeably disappointed. Be the case what it may with the 
 other Spanish boats, the *' Segovia" was clean and quite 
 as comfortable as most of our English coasting steamers, 
 with the exception of the lavatory, which was filthy. In 
 this, for filthiness, the Spaniards rival the French. Yet 
 ihey think they are clean. '* You English," the Spaniards 
 will say, **must be a very dirty people, you require to 
 wash so often." 
 
 CADIZ TO BAECELONA. 
 
 Punctually at 7 a.m., on March 14th, we left Cadiz. 
 It was blowing a little fresh, and Mr. Eden had soon to 
 seek refuge in his cabin. We arrived at Algeceiras in 
 the afternoon, stayed about two hours, to exchange cargo 
 and passengers, and then proceeded to Malaga, doubling 
 Gibraltar. We arrived at Malaga early on the 15th, and 
 spent most of the day on shore. At Algeceiras a mining 
 engineer came on board from Gibraltar, and told us of the 
 defeat of Mr. Gladstone's Government on the previous 
 evening, and of their resignation being accepted by the 
 Queen. And I earnestly desired that he might be kept 
 out ; for we never had a Government more favourable to 
 the Eomanists than his. Our new passenger was de- 
 lighted to find English passengers, Mr. E. and me, on 
 board; and we found him an intelligent and agreeable 
 travelling companion. 
 
 We visited the school of Seiior Partido, and his friend, 
 at No. 8, Calle Frailes. He has from 48 to 54 scholars, 
 all boys. They pay a trifle ; but were it not for help 
 he could not carry on. The school was in good order. 
 Seiior P. preaches on the Sunday. (We have sent him dE4.) 
 
 The Protestant cemetery, outside the town, is, as I 
 
14 J. oadsby's 
 
 said in my former little work on Spain, a nice place, and 
 well kept up. The late consul was buried there. We 
 were told he was regretted by all ; and I can well believe 
 it; for, in 1870, I found him most courteous; nor is his 
 successor less so. 
 
 In the evening we left for Almeria. The steamers run 
 from port to port during the night, and rest in the day. 
 This is a great advantage to those who are not in haste, 
 as there is plenty of time for them to explore every city 
 en route. 
 
 At Almeria there was no Protestant school or place of 
 worship; but one was greatly wanted. Not only here, 
 but in other parts of Spain, *'the harvest truly is 
 plenteous, but the labourers are few." 
 
 It was Sunday; but everything appeared to be going 
 on as on other days. There was a large market, well 
 supplied with meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit. 
 
 On the 17th we arrived at Carthagena. It rained 
 heavily. One person said he had been there for four 
 months, and it was the first rain he had seen ; and another 
 said there had been none for three years; but this seems 
 hard of belief. The streets were very muddy. Our 
 mining companion left us here. I think he said he was 
 going to examine fifteen mines, all in the locality. The 
 whole country almost teems with minerals, — copper, 
 lead, quicksilver, antimony, &c. If the people were 
 only industrious, it might be made one of the richest 
 countries in the world. 
 
 The Protestant cause is prospering here, under Senor 
 Orejon. He is supported partly by a committee in 
 Geneva. A lady in Holland pays the rent, &c. Two 
 hundred Spaniards have signed the book as members. 
 Seiior 0. preaches on Sundays and on Tuesday and 
 Thursday evenings. In the week evenings the place is 
 crowded, and well filled on Sundays. In the Sunday 
 school there are 60 boys and 30 girls ; and in the day 
 schools 112 boys and 73 girls; the average attendance 
 being about four-fifths of those numbers. The premises 
 are very convenient. Many apply for admission, but 
 there is no room for more. In other parts of the town 
 schools are wanted, and GOO or 700 children would 
 attend; but there are no teachers nor funds. 
 
 Sen. 0. was a Bomauist priest. He is ably assisted 
 
SECOND VISIT TO SPAIN. 16 
 
 by an American gentleman, who resides at Carthagena. 
 He has no assistance from our consul. The consul was 
 a Protestant ; but he manied a Eomanist lady, and he 
 became Eomanist. I was assured by one gentleman that 
 no one ever went to him for advice or assistance if he 
 could help it ; and this I can believe ; for we well know 
 how full of zeal for their new creeds those who chaoge 
 their faith become. Our Government Education Minister, 
 Mr. Forster, is an instance of this. 
 
 Our vice-consul is a black, and Senor 0. said he had 
 tried to get them turned out of the premises ; so there 
 was no help there. Singularly enough, every consul in 
 the place is Komanist; even tbe American one; and 
 he is opposed to all liberal institutions, which, as the 
 American said, is indeed an anomaly. The Prussian 
 consul also. How strange, that while the Prussians 
 are expelling the Jesuits from Germany, they should 
 have a Eomanist consul anywhere! The premises were 
 an old convent, suppressed at the Eevolution; and there 
 is not one convent now in the place. 
 
 It rained all day. We had a large quantity of wheat 
 in sacks to unship here, but the captain would not open 
 the hold for fear the wheat should be spoiled ; so we 
 were detained, and lost another day. 
 
 At Alicante, March 19th, we had with us an English- 
 man, who had been residing at Carthagena, and spoke 
 a little Spanish. Here there are two places of worship, 
 but no schools. One is a Presbyterian and the other a 
 Baptist. A Seiior Trigo had been minister of the former, 
 when it was well attended, but it had now fallen off. 
 The present minister's name is Yaidro Vildmenor; but 
 he said he was not a regular minister. There were 22 
 male and two female members. The other, Seiior Benito 
 Euez, minister, is a Baptist, under Mr. Knapp; and here 
 there are 110 registered congregation, with 29 members, 
 male and female. We saw both the ministers ; and they, 
 with others, accompanied us to the wharf on our return. 
 
 We went into the reading-room, to ascertain, if we 
 could, what sort of a Government we were to have in 
 England in lieu of our Eomanist one, which had re- 
 signed. I hoped that it would not be a Disraeli one, 
 because it was well known that he had offered the 
 Eomanists in Ireland a million sterling for the erection 
 
16 J. gadsby's 
 
 and endowment of a college; so what better was he than 
 Gladstone ? Lord Salisbury, Mr. Newdegate, and others, 
 as is well known, separated from Mr. Disraeli on that 
 account. Nothing, however, upon the subject was to be 
 ascertained. While in the room, we were apprised of a 
 commotion outside, and, going to the balcony, we saw 
 scores of men all hurrying towards one spot, which, wo 
 presumed, was the alcalde's, or mayor's. Some had 
 muskets, others blunderbusses, others pistols, others 
 swords, and several had clubs. These were the volun- 
 teers, going to preserve the peace, — a motley lot. Our 
 Anglo-Spanish guide wanted to go and see what was the 
 matter; but Mr. E. and I thought that our faces turned 
 in an opposite direction would be quite as prudent and 
 safe. No one might wish to do us harm; but a stray 
 bullet would ask no questions as to whether we were 
 English or Spanish. The ministers, whom we saw sub- 
 sequently, told us there had been two men killed and 
 six wounded while we were in the city, in a row of some 
 sort. Happily we were in another part of the city at 
 the time. Mr. Eden picked up a bullet. A Spanish 
 lady and gentleman, with their two daughters, who 
 went on shore with us, returned to the steamer in half 
 an hour, the engineer told us. No doubt, seeing that 
 something was wrong, and knowing what their country- 
 men are, they deemed it wise to beat a retreat. 
 
 On March 20th we arrived at the port of Valencia. 
 The town is nearly three miles off. We took a carriage, 
 and were well repaid. Valencia is a fine city, and ought 
 not to be missed by any one travelling near. But the 
 wonder of the place is the Bull-ring; i. e., the circus in 
 which the people have their horrid bull-fights. As a 
 specimen of magnitude and architecture, it comes nearer 
 to the Colosseum in Eome than any other building in 
 Europe. Its area is not so great as is the one at Seville ; 
 but, having three tiers of seats all round, while that at 
 Seville has only one tier, it will hold many more people, 
 — ^perhaps altogether 24,000, or, as some say, 80,000. 
 
 There is no Protestant school here ; but there is a place 
 of worship, Seiior Trigo, who was formerly at Alicante, 
 being the minister. There are ten male and six female 
 members. There is also a colporteur. This gentleman 
 kindly escorted us through the town. , 
 
SECOND VISIT TO SPAIN. 17 
 
 The next day, Mar. 21st, we reached Barcelona. We 
 were met by Mr. and Mrs. Fenn, we having telegraphed 
 to Mr. F. from Valencia. The steamer was not to leave 
 for Marseilles until the night of the 22nd ; so we went to 
 Mr. F.'s, where we found beds, table, stool, and candle- 
 stick prepared for us. 
 
 There was to be a meeting of the various Protestant 
 labourers in the evening, and after refreshment I went 
 with Mr. F. It was at Mr. Lawrence's. There were 
 present, male and female, eleven or twelve; and a most 
 cheering meeting, — prayer, praise, and conversation, it 
 was. Every one does his work in his own way, and allows 
 his fellow-workers to do the same ; which is as it ought 
 to be. 
 
 There is a night-school for girls in the house. There 
 were 39 present that night. 
 
 The success of the Protestant cause at Barcelona is 
 as gratifying as at Seville. Immediately after the Re- 
 public was declared, there appeared to be a fresh impulse 
 given to the people, as the colporteurs with the Bible 
 carriage, which we saw, had sold daily about 20s. worth 
 of Scriptures. God's word shall not return to him void. 
 These labourers see the work of God prospering in their 
 hand, and are thus blessed in their deed, and more and 
 more encouraged to proceed with their work. Just as it 
 was with Nehemiah. ** Our God will prosper us," said 
 he; ^Hherefore we will arise and build." 
 
 I addressed a few words to the friends present, and 
 then engaged in prayer. 
 
 The next morning we breakfasted at Mr. Lawrence's. 
 After breakfast we sang part of that beautiful hymn by 
 Count Zinzendorf, translated by the Wesleys : 
 "Jesus, thy blood and righteousness;" 
 and read a portion of the word. Mr. L. engaged in 
 prayer. 
 
 Mr. L. told us that a short time back he went with 
 the Bible carriage to Amoy (I think the place was), near 
 Alicante, and began to offer his Bibles, &c., in the square ; 
 when the procession with the transubstantiated w&fer came 
 out of the church. All the people immediately fell on 
 their knees, as they are bound to do. Mr. L. and his 
 companions stood upright. <* You see what these heretics 
 are," said the priests; ** they don't care about the body 
 
If J. OADSBY*S 
 
 of the Lord." Mr. L. immediately entered into a dis- 
 cussion with them, which ended in the complete discom- 
 fiture of the priests. The next day Mr. L. was again 
 in the square, and the procession again made its appear- 
 ance; hut not one person fell down. 
 
 Engaging a carriage, and accompanied by Mr. Fenn, 
 we went round the city to see the various schools, &c. 
 It would be tedious to enumerate them. Suffice it to 
 say, there are seven places^of worship, with congrega- 
 tions from 40 to 70 each, and an aggregate of 900 
 scholars. 
 
 I must, however, say there was one infant school, in 
 which above 70 were present, though it was a Saturday 
 morning. 120 stand on the books. And all this, in a 
 country where, only about three years ago, it would 
 have been certain imprisonment to have opened a school 
 or place of worship at all ! It is perfectly marvellous. 
 What hath God wrought ! 
 
 In one school was an interesting-looking girl, about 
 13 years of age. Her father had just died suddenly. 
 She used to go home and read to her father and sing 
 hymns; and he went home to hear her, instead of 
 spending his time away. He had a wish for her to be 
 educated as a teacher. There was hope that the girl 
 had the root of the matter in her. 
 
 One of the school-rooms in Gracia had been a theatre. 
 What a delightful change ! Besides this, there is regu- 
 lar preaching in the villages around. Had it not been 
 for the Santander affair, we might have visited them. 
 
 In the afternoon a blind man, who had been a priest, 
 came to Mr. F.'s, accompanied by his daughter. He 
 was a Spaniard, and was employed to visit parents. 
 Twenty-six years ago he went to Algiers ; and there a 
 Mr. Hoffman was the means of convincing him of the 
 errors of Eomanism. For five years, however, he re- 
 mained a nominal Protestant; until at Lyons, in the 
 French Evangelical church, he was led to see his state 
 as a sinner, and then to feel the pardon of his sins, and 
 had Christ manifested to him as his salvation. 
 
 We saw a blind man reading the Scriptures, having, 
 of course, the raised letters. He is employed by Mr. 
 Lawrence. I was assured that he is a true Christian. 
 
 Don Pablo Sanchez, who, when I was there in 1870, 
 
BECOND VISIT TO SPAIN. 10 
 
 was at Malaga, is now at Huelva, assisted by his wife 
 and daughter and a Mr. Bain. Scnor Alhama is still 
 at Grenada. He also prraches ir> villages near. One 
 night, the priests, with a mob, prepared to waylay him ; 
 but he was taken ill and unable to go ! At Madrid there 
 are Seiiors Carasco, liios, and lluet, and Messrs. Jame- 
 son, Moore, Faithfull, and Armstrong. At Cordova, 
 Seiior Ant. Sanchez and Mr. Waddell. At Jerez 
 (Sherry), Seiior Villiesie, a new church, with good 
 schools. Of some of these I gave an account in my 
 former little work. Some are supported from Ireland, 
 some from Scotland, and some from Geneva. 
 
 About midnight on the 22nd, we left for Marseilles. 
 In the morning we stopped at San Fellieu Guistolo, the 
 people of which place get their living by cork- cutting 
 and fishing. Wo delivered immense quantities of cork 
 uncut, and took on board a like quantity cut. From 
 Marseilles, these would be sent all over the world. 
 
 We slept one night at the English Hotel, Quay du 
 Port, Marseilles, another at the Hotel de I'Univers, 
 Lyons, one of ^he most comfortable in all France; 
 travelled all the next night to Paris, stopped one night 
 at Paris, half a day at Dieppe, travelled all night to 
 Newhaven, and reached London midday on the 29th. I 
 trust we were neither of us insensible of the Lord's pre- 
 serving and protecting goodness. 
 
 I have only to add that the amount of money distri- 
 buted by us at or for Seville, Cadiz, Malaga, Cartha- 
 gena, Alicante, Valencia, Barcelona, Grenada, Huelva, 
 Madrid, Cordova, and Jerez-de-la-Frontera, was £60. 
 Mr. Eden and I both felt pleasure in disposing of the 
 sums entrusted to us, taking care not to spend a penny 
 thereof on our own account, but cheerfully paying our 
 own expenses.* 
 
 * In a letter, dated April 22nd, received from Mr. Lawrence, 
 he says: "Within the last two months we have sold over 
 10,000 portions of the Scriptures, 6,000 illuBtrated almanacks, 
 and 6,000 other matters, besides having freely circulated 
 80,000 tracts. Our day schools greatly increase, and will soon 
 have to be enlarged. God is giving increase in the preach- 
 ing of tlie gospel, and we see the work of the Holy Ghost 
 carried on in many hearts. for more grace to go on abound- 
 ing in the work of the Lord ! " . 
 
20 J. GADSBY's second visit to SPAIN, - 
 
 Mr. Fenn, who has just returned from Spain, reports that 
 the work in Barcelona never was so full of promise as now — 
 increased sales of God s word, larger numbers attending the 
 schools and meetings; and, what is b(3tter still, not a few who 
 have been under instruction in the classes and meetings are 
 giving evidence that the Lord has saved their souls. 
 
 The Scotch Society has my warmest sympathies. Its be- 
 ginning was small; its success, under God, marvellous. In 
 1852 a Cluristian sailor, John Boyno, took out a bundle of 
 tracts to Cadiz. He was told of the danger. Isabella would 
 assuredly imprison him if he were found distributing the 
 tracts. He was taken ill at Cadiz, and obliged to return, 
 though after a long delay. He told the captain of the tracts, 
 and the captain, with true Scotch caution, would not take any 
 on shore, but told persons they could have a good book if 
 they went on board his ship. By this means all were dis- 
 posed of, and the seed sown. In two years, such had been 
 the progress of the work that the following was issued by the 
 Spanish Government: "Awake, Spaniards! New and ter- 
 rible dangers threaten the Catholicism of Spaniards. The 
 Protestant propaganda, which lately inaugurated its first 
 attempt on our unhappy country, and which has distributed, 
 with impudence and impunity. Bibles, books of devotion, 
 catechisms, and other works worthy of its corruption, con- 
 siders that it is authorized to carry on its heretical mission ; 
 
 . . . to turn us from loyal subjects into traitors ; from 
 Christianity into heretics; from sons of God into sons of the 
 devil ; from CathoUcs into infidels ; and from Spaniards into 
 barbarians ; such is the mission of the propaganda." 
 
 In 1866 the following appeared: "Her Majesty . . . 
 has been pleased to decree that the civil officers of govern- 
 ment should be held strictly responsible for watching carefully 
 against the introduction or circulation of these or similar 
 writings." . . . "We cannot but be filled with horror 
 when we consider the immense treasures and large resources 
 with the aid of which insatiable Protestantism has propagated 
 error and caused the perdition of souls, by the thousands of 
 Bibles which it has difiused throughout the world ; but our 
 indignation ought to be redoubled when we see that it can 
 now lift its hideous Gorgon head on the most classic ground 
 of CathoHcism itself. One more hour of negligence on the 
 part of those in whose hands repose the destinies of the na- 
 tion, and we are lost." 
 
 One more fact must be given. During the short reign of 
 Amadeus, Protestant pastors, those whom Isabella would 
 have imprisoned, were not only recognized by the Parliament 
 (Cortes), but a law was made exempting them from military 
 conscription. 
 
AMEEICA. 
 
 INTEODUCTORY. 
 
 No farther back than February, 1872, I had no more 
 tliought of crossing the Atlantic than I had of going to 
 the North Pole. Then what brought it about ? 
 
 It will be remembered by many of my readers that at 
 the latter end of the year 1871 I was called, in the provi- 
 dence of God, to endure severe trials ; the loss, almost 
 suddenly, of my only daughter, leaving two children, 
 one only five months old, and in eleven dayu Jifterwards 
 the loss of my dear wife, to whom I had been united, 
 in true love and affection, for thirty- six years. The 
 trial was so heavy that my weak body sank daily more 
 and more under it ; medicines, taken under the best ad- 
 vice that London could afford, proving utterly useless ; 
 indeed, if anything, aggravating my sufferings. It was 
 clear, therefore, that nothing human but a complete 
 change could be of any service to me ; and it was hoped 
 that, with the blessing of God, such a change might 
 prove beneficial. 
 
 Accordingly, under the advice of Sir W. Jenner, Dr. 
 Habershon, of Guy's Hospital, and others, I left home 
 at the latter end of February, 1872, for the Mediter- 
 ranean, accompanied by my friend Mr. Eden and my 
 elder son. I took what is called *' the round of the 
 ship;" leaving Liverpool for Gibraltar, Malta, Con- 
 stantinople, Smyrna, &c., and returning home vid 
 Malta, &c., sleeping on board the steamer every night. 
 
 On returning home I sat next the captain at the 
 dinner-table. One day he told us that his next run was 
 to be to Boston, in the United States. ** And," said he, 
 addi'essing me, " I wish you would go with me. You 
 should have every comfort that the ship can command." 
 I told him I had no thought of crossing the Atlantic, as 
 I was not fond of the sea. But subsequently I began to 
 think: "Well; I neYer have been in America,. I have 
 many nephews and nieces there whom I have never seen, 
 as well as a widowed sister-in-law, and numerous 
 
22 J. oadsby's 
 
 frienda ; I havo read and licard so mnch of tlie prosr Arity 
 and resources of that country that perhaps it ^\ .i not 
 be time thrown awny if, having already travelled a good 
 deal in Europe, Asia, and Africa, I add America to my 
 list. Then, again, I have been often asked if I considered 
 any part, and what part, of that vast continent suit- 
 able for emigration ; and not having been there, I have 
 only been able to say what I had heard, or read ; and I 
 have received so many contradictory reports as to the 
 state of religion in that country that I feel persuaded 
 nothing short of a personal visit can possibly enable me 
 to come to a just conclusion."* 
 
 So, after earnestly praying that if it would be a wrong 
 step I might be kept from taking it, I determined upon 
 going, if the Lord permitted ; not, in the first instance, 
 to Boston, but, as will be seen, to New York. 
 
 LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK, &c. 
 
 On Saturday morning, Aug. 8rd, 1872, 1 left Liverpool 
 on board the magnificent Cunard steamer, the " Scotia," 
 bound for New York. No finer ship *' ploughs the deep," 
 though there are the ''Russia," the "Java," &c. &c., 
 belonging to the same company, and all unsurpassed, if 
 not unsurpassable, for comfort. The charges are a little 
 higher than those of the other companies ; but what can 
 a trifle matter when you know you can have cleanliness 
 and comfort ? 
 
 We had about 200 passengers on board, chiefly Ameri- 
 cans of the better class ; for the Americans are wise 
 enough to know which are the best ships. The consump- 
 tion of coal for the engines is about 160 tons a day. 
 The " Scotia," the engineer assured me, never leaves 
 either Liverpool or New York with less than 1,900 tons 
 of coals on board. She carries no steerage passengers, 
 
 * Not that I would for a moment set myself up as a judge 
 far excellence; God forbid! though doubtless many, having 
 no better means of information, do treat my judgment with 
 deference. Nor yet that I am one of those who cut off all 
 v/ho do not see eye to eye with them in all things. Far from 
 it. I beHeve, as I have many times said, there are many 
 whose hearts are right in the sight of God, whose judgments, 
 as to the letter of truth, according to my judgment, are not 
 well informed. ' »** 
 
VI?*IT TO AMERir-A. |S 
 
 \shile some of the boats cany a thousand or more. She 
 has wcatlicrod many a storm; but "unless tlio Lord 
 keep the city, the watchman waketh but in vain." Her 
 engines are of 5,000 horse power indicated; four double 
 boilers, with 40 furnaces; 12 ft. stroke; paddles, 40 ft. 
 diameter; wheels, 41 ft. There are 180 hands on board 
 altogether, 05 of them for the engine-room alone. It 
 would not do for a nervous lady to go below to see the 
 boilers, Sec. 
 
 On the morning of the 4th we went into Quccnstown 
 harbour, lo wait for the mails. I opened my pocket 
 IJible, which has been my companion in thousands of 
 miles of travel, at home and abroad, by sea and by land, 
 over deserts and in fruitful valleys ; and Ps. lix. first 
 presented itself. When I came to verso 16, I said, 
 ♦* Surely God has been my defence from my very birth, 
 especially of late, and my refuge in all the troubles 
 through which I have had to pass ! " 
 
 *'A rofugo Kwect, and ruvo, and nigh; 
 And there is all my trust." 
 
 And I could from my very heart exclaim, ** Think of me 
 to the contrary who may, and say what hard things so- 
 ever they may, 
 
 " ' I would not change my worst estate 
 For all that man calls good or gi-eat.' " 
 
 I went into the town ; and when I saw the numbers 
 of poor creatures going to or coming from "mass," I 
 felt my very heart heave in pity for them, while I was 
 melted in gratitude to God that his salvation was with- 
 out money and without price, — assuredly without the 
 follies and mummeries of Eomanism ; and that Ma/ salva- 
 tion had been made known to me as mine. 
 
 The mails and passengers from London being on board, 
 we left about 4 p.m. 
 
 On the 7th we saw three whales, spouting up the water. 
 This led me to think of Jonah, and the absurd objections 
 of sceptics; just as if //ie who created the universe could 
 not make " a great fish," — a fish great enough to swallow 
 a man and the man still live ! I painfully know where 
 they are ; for I have been there myself more than once 
 or twice, and am too often sorely tempted to get there 
 again ; yes, even to doubt the very existence of God him* 
 
24 J. gadsby's 
 
 self! 0, )iow awful! But what a mercy that the Lord 
 never leaves his people in such a fire as this, though they 
 may have to pass through it ! We often hear men say 
 they firmly helieve there is a God, yet they will try to 
 explain away Jonah's case and other of the miracles 
 recorded in the Bible. How can they believe in a God 
 omnipotent, while they can do this ? The apostle said 
 he walked by faith, not by sight; yet I am often trying 
 to walk by sight. Well ! If we had no inspired word to 
 give us the rule of faith, we might, perhaps, plead an 
 excuse. But what should we do without the Bible ? " By 
 its promises," as Mr. Philpot says in a sermon I read on 
 the 7th, "we are drawn, by its precepts) we are guided, 
 by its warnings we are admonished, by its reproofs we 
 are rebuked, by its rod we are chastened, and by its truth 
 we are sanctified," or set apart. All this can only bo 
 made effectual, or even in any way operative, by the 
 blessed Spirit. Without him we cannot believe anything 
 to any good purpose ; but with him we can not only 
 believe there is a God, but that he is our God, — our God 
 and Father in Christ Jesus, even to the salvation of our 
 souls. 
 
 On the 10th we were crossing the Newfoundland 
 Banks in a fog, the steam-whistle sounding all day and 
 all night, to warn the c»d-fishing boats, of which there 
 are sometimes shoals hereabouts, these waters over the 
 banks being, I believe, the best cod-fishing waters in the 
 world. The boats are sometimes run down by the 
 steamers. We passed close by one about 4 o'clock in 
 the morning, and about midday of the 12th the fog 
 cleared off for a few minutes, when we found we were 
 "within five yards of another. There was quite a con- 
 sternation on board. The gentlemen all ran forward to 
 render what assistance they could, and the ladies seemed 
 almost petrified. Providentially, we just got out of the 
 way in time ; and then the fog came on again. Yet we 
 did not slacken speed, but kept going on about IG or 17 
 miles an hour. The wind was very cold, proclaiming 
 the fact that we were not far from ice. Sometimes ice- 
 bergs run aground on the banks, in 300 to 400 ft. of 
 water, projecting, perhaps, 100 to 200 ft. above the sur- 
 face. Fogs prevail here. I heard a passenger ask one 
 of the officers if it was always foggy here. "I don't 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. ^ 
 
 know," replied the officer, "for I don't live here; but it 
 has been so every time I have been here." 
 
 How often have I been, 'as it were, in a fog, not know- 
 ing which way to steer, having lost sight of my compass I 
 And how often, alas ! have I seemed as if I did not care 
 about the way, going on in my own way, danger sound- 
 ing in my conscience the whole time, until I have been 
 "like a sheep that no man taketh up" (Isa. xiii. 14), or 
 careth for. And how good has the Lord been in 
 stopping me, and bringing me back with weeping and 
 supplication and sore bones ! Well may we ask, as to 
 many things in our lives, " What fruit is therein those 
 things whereof we are now ashamed?" (Bom. vi. 21.) 
 
 One of the officers told me that some years ago he 
 emigrated to Tonido, Buenos Ayres, where he had 
 4,000 sheep; but one night the natives came down upon 
 the settlement, drove away 3,500 of them, and murdered 
 whole families. He escaped, being young and having 
 no family incumbrance. I remember reading of this 
 in the papers. 
 
 Aug. 12. — Yesterday we had service on board. A 
 Scotch minister officiated, and preached well from 
 " There is a Friend that sticketh closer than a brother." 
 
 Aug. 13. — We arrived at New York in the morning, 
 having had a wonderfully line passage. I was met by 
 two nephews, got easily through the customs, and waa 
 speedily afterwards at the house of my late brother 
 William's ,7idow, at Yonkers, about 17 miles up the 
 magnificent river Hudson. In the evening my sister- 
 in-law chose for reading Ps. ciii. ; and a most precious 
 psalm it is. 
 
 . Yonkers is a clean country town, or rather city; for 
 as soon as a place can boast of 18,000 inhabitants it 
 has the privilege of being called a city ; which manifests 
 a little weakness. The houses are nearly all of wood; 
 but with balconies, verandahs, porticos, &c., they have 
 a neat, indeed picturesque appearance ; and the place is 
 well wooded. ,ijt 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 The next day, though the thermometer stood at 96° 
 in the shade, I went to New York. 
 
 I firmly believe that New York will ere long become 
 one of the finest cities in the world. The owners of 
 
26 J. oabsby's 
 
 property seem bent upon vieing with each other in 
 erecting stately buildings. Just as in London, in the 
 City, in Oxford Street, and most other parts, as old 
 buildings are pulled down, palaces and semi-palaces are 
 being erected in their room. The Broadway contains 
 some magnificent structures, both public and private. 
 The Wesleyan book-store, for instance, cost £180,000. 
 Then there are the new post office, the State-house, 
 the new ** New York Herald" office, &o. &c. Still I 
 was compelled to take a large discount from what I had 
 heard respecting that street. None of the shops, either 
 in that or any other street, appeared to me to be supplied 
 with sjlks, jewellery, &c., in anyway equal to those in 
 Regent Street, Cheapside, &c. But Stewart's Store sur- 
 passes for magnitude and stock every thing we have in 
 England. This building is eight storeys high, and 
 abounds with *♦ dry goods;" i.e., carpets, silks, cottons, 
 &c., to the value of scores, I may say some hundreds of 
 thousands of pounds. I now speak only of the retail 
 establishment. The wholesale, built of marble, is a 
 little way off. Shoolbred's, Marshall and Snelgrove's, 
 Spencer, Turner, and Boldero's, are, perhaps, the largest 
 retail houses in London ; but Stewart's would swallow 
 them all up together. The building is about 90 yards 
 square, all iron, inside and out, and the rooms are all 
 open, full size. If spread out, they would cover an area 
 of 15 acres. Here I procured the prices of various 
 articles. The cheapest Brussels carpets were 9s. per 
 yard; the cheapest black silk dresses, £14 (in England 
 about £8); others, wiMou^ lace, £35 ; withl&ce, — ask no 
 questions. Some silks were 9 and 12 dollars a yard, and 
 85 yards of these some ladies would have in their dresses. 
 Some shawls were £1,000 each. 
 
 Everything in the country is in the same proportion. 
 Boots are 21s. per pair, certainly not superior to those I 
 buy at Rusk's, in Holborn, at 14s. Gd. ^ 
 
 We need not wonaer that, before entering New York, 
 the ladies on board the " Scotia" appeared on deck in 
 new silk dresses, &c., as they all did. 
 
 The firm employ 2,500 hands, and make 20,000 yards 
 of carpet per day. 
 
 Tifiany's jewellery establishment is much spoken of; 
 but it did not strike oae as anything es^traordinaiy. > 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. t^ 
 
 The Central Park, consisting of about 843 acres, "will, 
 in a few years, when the trees have arrived at manhood, 
 equal any park in the world. Its menagerie is, as yet, 
 only third-rate. Its shrubberies, lakes, and architectu- 
 ral decorations are marvellous, remembering that only 
 a few years ago they were, as a "guide book" says, 
 "mainly boulders and swamps." 
 
 One day I went expressly to see the Greenwood Ceme- 
 tery ; but the extreme heat drove me back, though there 
 was not much difference in the temperature between 
 New York and Yonkers. I felt disappointed, because 
 I was assured that it surpassed Mount Auburn, at 
 Boston, and I wanted to see for myself, as it will take 
 a great deal to convince me that it does so. 
 
 New York is an island, — the island of Manhattan, 
 about 13^ miles long, and averaging If mile in width. 
 Two hundred years ago, it was one universal swamp, 
 with 1,000 inhabitants; now it contains a million. 
 Even now in some parts ague is common. On returning 
 home there was an American gentleman on board who 
 suffered fearfully from ague, and was going to a situa- 
 tion in Paris, as he could not live in New York. He 
 had resided near the Central Park. The islan 1, being 
 for the most part flat, like our Plumstead, cannot be 
 well drained. 
 
 There are tramways (or street- cars as they are called) 
 in almost every good street ; but that in the Broadway 
 stops short before it reaches the business part. The 
 traffic in Wall Street, Nassau Street, &c., is immense, 
 and there was often great confusion, the police regula- 
 tions being far from perfect. 
 
 The Broadway runs, or is intended to run, the entire 
 length of the island, and the streets running parallel 
 with this are called avenues. When I first heard 
 these avenues mentioned, I pictured to myself rows 
 of trees, like the Boulevards in Paris and other parts 
 of the Continent; but these are not to be seen. The 
 streets running W. and E. of the Broadway are num- 
 bered consecutively, Ist Street W., 2nd Street W., or 
 100th Street W., as it may be, and the like on the E. 
 side, all running at right angles; and the numbers of 
 the streets are painted on the lamps, so as to be seen 
 at night, as at many of our railway stations. The 
 
28 J. oadsby's 
 
 avenues also are numbered consecutively, 1st Avenue, 
 2nd Avenue, &c. In the 9tli and 10th Avenues, twenty 
 « blocks" make exactly a mile; and this may be the 
 case also in other avenues. 
 
 The most fashionable street in New York is the 
 5th Avenue, some of the houses in which may be well 
 described as palaces. But even here shops are be- 
 ginning to show themselves. Stewart's house is here, 
 all of marble. The 5th Avenue Hotel, corner of Broad- 
 way and 23rd Street, is considered the finest in New 
 York. They can make up 350 beds ; and the charges 
 are not high — 15s. to 18s. per day. This hotel was 
 burnt down recently, — after I was there, and several 
 domestics were burnt to death. 
 
 THE HUDSON KIVER. 
 
 This river equalled all my expectations. Taking it 
 all in all, it is, perhaps, the most picturesque river in 
 the world. It certainly surpasses the Ehine; but I 
 cannot say that any part of it which I saw equals some 
 parts of the Rhone in France, or the Elbe in Saxon 
 Switzerland, going, to wit, part way from Dresden to 
 Prague. The St. Lawrence, for beauty, is not to be 
 compared with the Hudson. There are some manu- 
 factories already on thi banks between New York and 
 Yonkers, and in a few years there will doubtless be many 
 more. When I say " the banks," I do not mean flat 
 banks, like the Thames, but the hill sides ; for none of 
 the river's banks are flat. And those hill-sides are 
 studded with villas, &c. Hereabouts, however, parks, or 
 park-like trees, are comparatively scarce. 
 
 On Aug. 17th, accompanied by my nephew, my de- 
 ceased younger brother's son, I went up the river as 
 far as Newburg. And in this run there is some scenery 
 which, as I have said, surpasses the Bhine and almost 
 rivals the Rhone. In one part, near Cozzens's Hotel, 
 which is laid out for pleasure parties, there is a very 
 good waterfall. 
 
 Newburg was Washington's head-quarters during the 
 war with the British. In the house various interesting 
 relics are exhibited, amongst which is some of Wash- 
 ington's hair. We wonder now-a-days how King George 
 could be 190 silly as to persist in the American war, es- 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 
 
 pecially seeing we were at the same time at war with 
 France; but nothing could move his stubborn head. 
 That war laid the foundation for a dislike of England 
 by the Americans which time will hardly ever erase. I 
 asked the keeper of the house if I might pluck a flower 
 for my album. " Anything, you please, Sir," said he. 
 (How different was this to the keeper of the restaurant 
 at Dieppe. The counter was almost covered with flowers, 
 but he would not allow me to take a single one, though 
 we had expended a dozen francs in the room.) 
 
 NEW YOEK TO BOSTON. 
 
 I soon found that I could not endure the extreme heat. 
 Night after night, and throughout the night, with win- 
 dows and a door opposite open, my thermometer stood 
 at 89°; and one of my nephews told me that the ther- 
 mometer in the shade in the garden one day stood at 
 106°. Even in Australia 101° is considered terrific. I 
 therefore began to speak of going to Canada, farther 
 north, hoping to have the weather a little cooler. I did 
 not like to go alone, so decided upon taking my nephew 
 with me, going by way of Fall Kiver, Boston, on to 
 Quebec, Montreal, Toronto, the Falls of Niagara, &c., 
 then to Woodstock beyond Chicago, to see a nir o whose 
 husband had a small farm there, and returning by way of 
 Pittsburg, Washington, Philadelphia, and Wilmington, 
 
 Accordingly, on Aug. 19th, we left New York by 
 steamer for Fall Kiver, arriving there about 5 o'clock in 
 the morning ; but we did not leave the boat until 7. We 
 then went to one of my niece's, who was born in England, 
 and left with her parents for the United States in 1829.* 
 
 Fall Eiver is one of the most prosperous towns in the 
 States. Its trade is cotton-spinning, weaving, and print- 
 ing. Formerly Lowell was called the Manchester of the 
 United States ; but now Fall River, I believe, takes the 
 lead. When I was there there were 89 mills at work, or 
 nearly ready for work, averaging 80,000 spindles each, 
 and several others were in contemplation. Most of them 
 are on the co-operative plan, in shares of £20 each, 
 15,000 hands are employed, 125,000 bales of cotton used, 
 
 t< 
 
 * For an account of my sister, this niece's mother, 669 
 Gospel Standard" for Get., 1858. 
 
80 J. oadsby's 
 
 and 310,000,000 yards of cloth yearly made; the wages 
 paid being about 125,000 dollars a week, or sayan average 
 of eight dollars each. There were also three thread mills 
 and large print-works. When my sister and her hus- 
 band went there, the place was not much above a vil- 
 lage. In 1810 the population was only 1,206; in 1872, 
 nearly 35,000. 
 
 My niece's husband engaged a carriage, and we had a 
 pleasant drive, though some of the roads were rather 
 primitive. The weather was cool compared with New 
 York, but we passed a poor horse which lay prostrate 
 from a sunstroke. We went to see what my nephew 
 called a pondy as it was only 14 miles long; not like the 
 lakes certainly — Ontario to wit, which may be 150 miles. 
 Our carriage broke down, i.e., a wheel came oS. I wonder 
 how the wheels can stop on, they seem so slim, the tires 
 being only about an inch wide, and the wheels so large 
 in diameter, with apparently mere sticks for spokes ; but 
 being made of hickory they are considered strong, though 
 breaks-down are common enough. 
 
 I saw other of my late sister's children, there being 
 still five living at or near Fall Eiver, and I visited the 
 graves of my sister and her husband and one daughter. 
 
 The next morning, at 8, I left for Boston, by rail, 
 passing Taunton and Braintree. The country along the 
 line was fast populating ; many houses were inhabited, 
 and many more being erected; all, or nearly all, ** frame- 
 houses," as they are called; i.e., of wood. And this, I 
 may say, once for all, is universally the case, both in 
 Canada and the States, even in the heart of some of the 
 cities. In about an hour and three-quarters we arrived 
 at Boston, and there I was met by a nephew of my late 
 dear wife's. A " street car" took us to the house of his 
 sister, a widow, residing in South Boston. 
 
 On a subsequent occasion I went again to Boston, by 
 the New York and Boston Express line, passing Stam- 
 ford, Bridgeport, New Haven, Springfield, Worcester, 
 &o. There were mills and manufactories almost all 
 along the line. The country throughout is flat and 
 marshy. 
 
 BOSTON. - .- 
 
 Haying had breakfast, we went into the city. It looked 
 like a good old-fasbioxiecl English town, as indeed it may 
 
TISIT TO AMERICA. 81 
 
 be said to be. The streets are irregular, not at right 
 angles, and there was an air of business in the place 
 which looked amazingly like home. Tramways abound, 
 as in New York ; and there is the same lack of police 
 regulations to keep the machine moving. The "blocks'* 
 are often unendurable. Only imagine a dozen or more 
 lines from various parts all converging to one point. I 
 once counted no less than nine tramway carriages (I 
 beg pardon — "street-cars") close after each other, and 
 all at a dead lock. 
 
 Most of my readers have heard of the wonderful way 
 in which the people move houses and set them back, or 
 raise them to make them a storey higher. I saw one 
 large house in process of being raised. It was done by 
 means of beams run through from side to side and a 
 host of screw-jacks under the beams. The jacks are 
 worked to so great a nicety that not a brick is displaced ; 
 for I am now speaking of a brick building, not of a 
 wood one ; and the people remained in it all the time. 
 But this is nothing to what has been and can at any 
 time be again done. I saw the x '\&m. Hotel, about 
 seven storeys high above the basemen j, all of stone, and 
 the adjoining buildings of brick, measuring together 
 about 47 yards by about 28 yards — all of which had been 
 moved at once 15 feet back. All one side of Hanover 
 Street had been moved back various distances, to make 
 the street straight. This moving back is done after 
 this fashion : The smaller houses at the back are pulled 
 down. The ground is then cleared and excavated, and 
 the foundations laid and basement-walls erected the exact 
 size of the building to be removed. The said building 
 is then raised by means of beams and screw-jacks in the 
 way I have already described, and then, by means of 
 rollers and hydraulic pressure, the entire building is de- 
 posited on the new walls, without displacing a joint. 
 
 Our Metropolitan Board of "Works, as is well known, 
 have it in contemplation to open a new street from 
 Charing Cross to the Thames Embankment, pulling 
 down that fine old building Northumberland House, and 
 paying the Duke of Northumberland £500,000. The 
 street will certainly be a wonderful improvement, and 
 the money to be paid for it not one penny too much. 
 But Bome Amerioans have proposed to remove the house 
 
82 J. oadsby's 
 
 instead of its being pulled down. I hope the Board will 
 allow the thing to be done ; for that it can be done I 
 have no doubt whatever. 
 
 The part of Boston recently burnt down I knew well. 
 
 The gigantic colosseum erected in 1872 for the world's 
 jubilee, was still standing ; and we visited it. It bore 
 throughout the stamp of insanity, at any rate of mono- 
 maniaoy. It cost 650,000 dols. I do not wonder at 
 the projectors losing what they did, say 210,000 dols. 
 Being only of wood, they might have known that the 
 thousands outside could hear as well without paying 
 as the thousands inside who paid; therefore, as the 
 papers told us, immense numbers purchased toys for 
 their children with what they had expected to have to 
 pay for admission. The gas cost a dollar a minute. But 
 the Americans do everything in such a "big" way. 
 They say, "Our country is a ' big ' one, and we must have 
 everything to correspond. If we have a snow storm, it 
 is a big one ; if we have a shower of rain, it is a big 
 one ; if we build a ship, it must be a big one (referring 
 to the floating palaces I shall elsewhere describe); our 
 debt is a big one, and our means of paying it are big 
 ones ; if we have a fire, it is a big one ; if we make 
 a present, it must be a big one," &c. &c. As to the 
 last named, I read a remarkable instance. A minis- 
 ter, who had been 60 years pastor over a people, 
 reached his 83rd birthday. His congregation, without 
 giving him any intimation of their intention, took pos- 
 seb;-.ion of his house and of every room in the house, 
 going in by scores, and loaded his tables with presents. 
 
 In Boston, as well as in New York, the value of land 
 has sprung up most amazingly. I heard of land in the 
 latter city realizing 250 dollars (currency) a square yard. 
 The last sale of land in London that I saw noticed was 
 X82 per square /oo^ 
 
 South Boston, until recently a swamp, has also sprung 
 up pro raid with the old city. Large fortunes have been 
 made in a few months. 
 
 Seeing General Butler's name announced to address a 
 meeting in the evening of the 22nd, and knowing how 
 bitter he is against the English, I thought I would go 
 and hear what he had to say. The hall was crowded, 
 a large number of Irish being present. These became 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 88 
 
 80 nproarious that at last the police had to be sent for. 
 Addressing the Irish, the general said, " You have 
 come from a land of oppression, and you are seeking to 
 establish as great an oppression here." Well, I must 
 say the Americans deserve all the Irish can give them. 
 They have ever petted them for the sake of their votes 
 at elections, and they will have to pay the penalty some 
 day ; for the Irish will give them trouble enough. 
 
 On the 23rd, we visited Mount Auburn Cemetery. I 
 will only say that Pdre la Chaise, Paris, must not dare 
 to vie with it. I visited the latter, with Mr. Eden, on 
 our way from Spain, and I fearlessly say it is not to be 
 compared to Mount Auburn, either as to beauty of 
 situation or monuments. 
 
 On Sept. 17th, I returned to Boston, having promised 
 to do so, if able, to give a lecture ; and this I did on the 
 18th, in a portion of the oldest Episcopal church in tho 
 United States ; viz.,Christchurch. It was erected in 1723. 
 Here is a massive silver communion service, which was 
 presented by George II., in 1732, and in the belfry are 
 two silver bells, also presented by George II. The pulpit 
 and desk are all in the old style, the Ten Command- 
 ments are behind the communion table, and the pews 
 are the old high-backed ones. Eitualism has not found 
 its way into this church. I hope it never will get in. 
 
 It poured with rain all day on Sept. 19th; but I never- 
 theless went to Salem to see Mr. Sessions, who was with 
 me on the Nile in 1851, as stated in ** My Wanderings." 
 He was not there ; but I had the pleasure of meeting 
 with him at Boston on my return from Salem. 
 
 During Aug. 23rdwe booked for Quebec, securing berths 
 in the Pulman cars. (For particulars see remarks under 
 head "Eailways.") We left at G p.m., and in about 
 fifty minutes stopped at Lowell, its long chimneys carry- 
 ing me to my native town, Manchester, and making me 
 long for its cooler, though not so transparent atmo- 
 sphere. In another hour and a half we arrived at Man- 
 chester; but I had " turned in" for the night, and slept 
 well, notwithstanding the novelty of a Pulman car. 
 
 About 8 o'clock a.m., on the 24th, we entered Canada. 
 From daylight up to this time, and as far as St. John's, 
 the country was not well cultivated, even where cleared. 
 There was little or no com of any kind growing, except 
 
 b2 
 
84 J. oadsby's 
 
 a sweet corn, nsed as a vegetable. From E. to W. there 
 is a vast expanse, as flat almost as a parlour floor. I 
 saw no hills, except in the very far distance. Thousands 
 of acres of land remain uncleared, though not so much 
 in this part as farther in the interior. But I may here 
 say that along all the lines of rails, as well as along the 
 rivers, there are thousands of acres of wild wood, — 
 woods, woods, woods ! Near the railway stations the 
 land is mostly cleared and in course of more or less 
 cultivation. Immense quantities of stumps of trees 
 were almost everywhere to be seen, the stems having 
 been cut down and removed. To remove the roots is 
 the great difficulty in clearing the land. Hence we saw 
 hundreds on fire, as this is the quickest way of getting 
 rid of them. The woods, too, are often set on fire for 
 the like purpose; but we did not see any, — only the 
 stumps. Generally the branches and underwood only 
 are consumed, leaving the stems standing, and these 
 pay well for cutting down. Immense piles of wood, 
 trees, and stumps, were on every hand, for fuel. In 
 some places, where the land had been partially cleared, 
 the best trees left standing, the appearance is park-like ; 
 and here there was sure to be a good house, showing that 
 the proprietor had well established himself. Here and 
 there was a log-house, and anon a frame house, and 
 preparations were being made for clearing the land, the 
 " squatters " having only recently arrived. I pitied the 
 poor things. But, humanly speaking, there is a certain 
 living for them, though in a rude way, when once the 
 land is cleared. Now and then, in the very heart of the 
 woods, we saw a good and well-cultivated farm, which 
 looked like an oasis in the desert. 
 
 Very few cows, sheep, or horses were to be seen, con- 
 trasting strangely with the steppes of Hungary, on the 
 Danube, where horses are to be seen by the thousand. 
 
 Accustomed as I am in my travels to hear only foreign 
 languages,^-Arabic, Turkish, Greek, German, French, 
 Italian, Spanish, it seemed over and over again vastly 
 strange to hear my own language in so wild a country. 
 This part of Canada (Lower Canada) is, however, princi- 
 pally French. 
 
 St. John's seemed a prosperous town. There are good 
 Streets, with ohurches, houses, &c., many of brick. . _ 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. W 
 
 At St. Lawrence wo ought to have fallen in with a 
 train for Quebec; but we were late, and the train had 
 been gone a few minutes. These few minutes lost us 
 nearly three days. We were compelled to go on to 
 Montreal, stay there until Monday, then go to Quebec, 
 returning to Montreal, then by the St. Lawrence to 
 Toronto, having, as I shall show in its proper place, to 
 anchor for 24 hours in a storm on Lake Ontario, and 
 again being detained at Hamilton. The time advertised 
 between Boston and Montreal, say 800 miles, is 15J 
 hours ; but we were 17 hours. 
 
 MONTKEAL. 
 
 Montreal is a fine city, equal to most in the United 
 States. The buildings are of stone and brick. Two- 
 thirds of the inhabitants are French and Irish, and these 
 give a great deal of trouble to the Protestants. Some 
 of the Romanist churches must have cost large sums, 
 like those in other countries. 
 
 We put up at the Hotel Ottawa. Table and beds all 
 that could be wished for, and free from mosquitos. 
 Terms close upon 15s. per day; and not too much. 
 
 There are several convents about the town; one called 
 the White Convent, a little way outside, said to have 
 1 ,400 inmates. We went by tramway to see this gigantic 
 mass of perversion of the laws of both God and man; 
 and truly it made me mourn to think there could be so 
 many modern Pagans. On returning the same way, my 
 nephew fell asleep in the carriage. I wonder he had 
 kept awake so long ; for he had not had much sleep on the 
 way from Boston. A gentleman who sat next to me 
 said, "You see, that person has been taking too much." 
 *' Pardon me," I replied. "He has been travelling with 
 me all the way from Boston, and is quite overcome. He 
 has not tasted anything stronger than tea." "0!" he 
 exclaimed. "1 am very sorry. Please don't tell him 
 what I said." "Well," I replied; "this is only another 
 proof added to many proofs I have had that we ought 
 not to judge from appearances, and ought to be careful 
 what we say before strangers, as we know not to whom 
 we may be speaking." He acquiesced, and really did 
 seem sorry. We subsequently met him in the city. I 
 ftek^d him what places of worship there were. *♦ What 
 
86 J. oadsby's 
 
 are you?" ho asked; "a Wesloyan?" "No, I am a 
 Calvinist." "Then you must go and hear Mr. Car- 
 michael at the English church." (See my remarks upon 
 Beligion, farther on.) He told us also of a Baptist 
 place, but could not give particulars. 
 
 Had it been a little cooler, the evening would have 
 been delicious, — a fine clear sky and no wind to blow the 
 dust about; but in my bedroom it was 82^, only 7°cooler 
 than at Yonkers. 
 
 ' The next morning (Lord's day) wo started early to go 
 to the Baptist chapel, expecting to find a Sunday school ; 
 but on arriving found there was none there, but a large 
 one in Russell Hall, in another part of the town. We 
 then went to Mr. Carmichael's, and in the afternoon to 
 Russell Hall, where we found about 400 scholars. I 
 gave the infants in a side room a short address about 
 Jerusalem, &c. The superintendent was a Mr. C. He 
 was born in Norfolk, and emigrated with his mother and 
 brothers and sisters at the expense of the Government. 
 He now lives in a house worth £400 a year, but his own 
 freehold, as is also his fine warehouse in the city. At nine 
 years of age he was able to support himself, at ten his 
 mother also. He is only one of many instances of large 
 fortunes having been realized in Canada. He was a truly 
 loyal "Britisher," and scouted the idea of Canada ever 
 becoming connected with the United States. He com- 
 plained, nevertheless, of the Canadian Government 
 charging c>. duty on all books, even Bibles, imported from 
 England; still it was not to be wondered at, as we in 
 England now ^dmit the i)roducts of foreign countries on 
 the same te^jas as those of the colonies, while formerly 
 there was a heavier duty upon the former than upon the 
 latter. He invited me and my nephew to take tea with 
 him, together with a converted Buddhist. When this 
 person forsook the religion of his fathers he was adver- 
 tised and viewed by law as deadt and he was mourned 
 for every year. 
 
 In the evening we went with Mr. C. to the Baptist chapel. 
 The minister was a Scotchman, from Glasgow. He was 
 B, Presbyterian ; but, having been led to see baptism, he 
 was so persecuted that he left the place and sought refuge 
 in Canada. . , 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 87 
 
 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 
 
 On Monday morning, Aug. 2Gtli, wo left by rail for 
 Quebec. I saw barley, rye, and oats growing in various 
 parts, but no wheat. There were new settlers, and 
 woods, woods, as already described. At one station an 
 Englishman got into the carriage who was foreman of 
 the Arthabaska sawmill. lie said the woods produced 
 hemlock (the bark of which is used for tanning), elm, 
 beech, maple, birch, ash, oak, tamarak (a hard wood like 
 Norway pine), bass wood, spruce, pine, cedar, black and 
 grey walnut, &c. &c. But I need not dwell upon these 
 things, as there arc abundant sources of information at 
 command. The Arthabaska mill sends ten largo rail- 
 way trucks of lumber to Boston, Lowell, &o., every day, 
 fuel for the mills. The said foreman told mo the coun- 
 try was most prosperous. All that proprietors wanted 
 was more labourers. 
 
 For miles and miles the rail runs parallel with the 
 St. Lawrence. The river was everywhere studded with 
 huge rafts of timber, going down to Quebec, for ship- 
 ment to Europe, and tho banks were covered with 
 myriads of piles of trees, waiting their turn. Yet it is 
 asserted that the supply is falling off, and that timber 
 will ere long be scarce. 
 
 At 4 o'clock we arrived opposite Quebec. A ferry- 
 boat took us over. 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 We went direct to the Hotel St. Louis, but slept at 
 Eussell House, — clean and comfortable, only 10s. Gd. 
 per day. what piles of travellers' baggage in the St, 
 Louis Hotel I It must be seen to be believed ; and some 
 of the trunks of enormous size. The saloon is 27 yards 
 long. 
 
 The streets of Quebec are narrow, badly paved, and 
 dirty, like an Oriental town. From the river to the hotel 
 it is a very steep ascent, nearly 300 feet, and very diffi- 
 cult too, on account of its being badly paved ; but I learnt 
 that this was unavoidable; for pave as they would, a 
 heavy storm comes and washes up everything. So with 
 some of the lower streets. These are not paved, but 
 planked, — footpaths and carriage-ways too, wood being 
 pheaper than flags or stones. After a storm, I was told, 
 
IW J. oadsby's 
 
 the planks are floating about like little boats. The tide 
 also often rises 25 feet, and washes up everything. The 
 8t. Lawrence here is only about 1814 yards wide, and is 
 about 400 miles from its mouth in the Atlantic. 
 
 In the lower part of the town there is a tramway; 
 and on the carriages is given the information, — "To 
 Peter, Paul, and Joseph Streets." Not much English, 
 comparatively, is spoken; principally French. 
 
 Quebec was taken from the French by the British, 
 under General Wolfe, in 1759. It was ably defended 
 by the French under the Marquis de Montcalm, and both 
 he and Wolfe fell. The city and all the French posses- 
 sions in Canada were ceded to Great Britain at the 
 "Peace of Paris," in 1763. 
 
 The evening was delicious, and the night equally so. 
 With the window open all night my thermometer stood 
 at 70°. No mosquitos. 
 
 On Aug. 27th we engaged a hack to go to the Falls of 
 Montmorency. We crossed the river St. Charles, which 
 here falls into the St. Lawrence, and soon afterwards 
 came to a largo building. "What place is that?" said 
 I to the driver, who was an Irishman. " A convent, 
 your Honour." "Are there many in it?" "Above 600." 
 "Don't you think the women are very foolish to shut 
 themselves up there ? " " Foolish ! My woman wouldn't 
 like to be shut up there ; and if she was for two hours, 
 she'd be glad to get out." 
 
 The road to the Falls is dreary enough, only a few 
 pines or cedars to be seen ; but the Falls are well worth 
 a visit. I speak of them elsewhere. 
 
 Being a little late on returninjpf, and having to drive 
 round the bay, I said to the driver, "If you could only 
 drive across , wh at time you would save ! " "If yer Honour 
 will come in the winter, I'll do that for you ;" ever ready 
 with an answer; referring, of course, to the river being 
 frozen over, which it sometimes is to the thickness of 
 4 feet. 
 
 Our driver took us round the city to see the cathedral, 
 the fort, &c. The view from the fort is surpassingly grand. 
 There is the city below ; the river, with its high banks and 
 sawmills on either side ; innumerable rafts from Ottawa ; 
 myriads of flooring boards and planks; woods, bays, and 
 villages. 
 
VISIT TO ABIEBICA. 89 
 
 QUEBEC TO THE FALLS OF NIAGAEA. ' 
 
 In the evening of the 27th we left Quebec in a steamer 
 for Montreal, to proceed thence by another steamer to 
 Toronto. There was a Scotch family on board, just 
 arrived from Scotland, and on their way to Montreal. 
 They had had a good passage ; still they were glad to 
 enter the St. Lawrence. There was also on board the 
 editor of one of the papers at Montreal. He had come 
 to meet the said family. F.um. him I received a good 
 deal of information. 
 
 During the night the horizon was brilliantly illumi- 
 nated, — the aurora borealis, or northern lights. It was 
 most magnificent. 
 
 We arrived at Montreal about 7 a.m. on the 28th, 
 and went direct to the steamer for Toronto, about 10 
 minutes' walk from boat to boat. We then went into 
 the city and had breakfast, and left at 9.30. Still up 
 the St. Lawrence ; but I saw little to comment upon, 
 after what I had seen in other parts. For many miles 
 the banks are flat, as far as wo could see, reminding me 
 of the Nile, only that the country here is by no means 
 BO well cultivated as Egypt. I was surprised, indeed, 
 to see so little cultivation. Here are stunted trees in- 
 stead of palms; but, I must add, comfortable wood 
 houses instead of mud hovels. All this part is French. 
 AtValleyfield there are some paper mills; some Scotch, 
 but still mostly French. From Beauharnois to Irriquois 
 (which place we reached on the morning of the 29th), 
 and all beyond, upward, all is well cultivated. At Irri- 
 quois, where we stopped a little while, I said to a gen- 
 tleman on shore, "Are they French here?" " No, no," 
 he replied, most emphatically. "The French are all be- 
 low." We had now got into Uppor Canada. What a 
 difference ! The French never do make good colonists. 
 They produce what they absolutely require, and hardly 
 that ; at any rate, very little more. 
 
 Irriquois is a nice little town with its corn fields, gar- 
 dens, orchards, &c. ; and we came to other similar ones 
 — chouses with enclosed grounds, like home. These are 
 owned by English and Scotch. 
 
 I need hardly say that rafts were still numerous. The 
 wood houses upon them looked snug enough. These, 
 
40 J. gadsby's " 
 
 together with the rafts, the owners sell at Montreal or 
 Quebec, and then return by boat or rail. It was most 
 interesting to see thim coming down the rapids, towed 
 by steamers. The waier sometimes washed over them 
 almost knee deep. Going up the river, as we were, the 
 rapids are avoided by means of canals, with locks ; but 
 on returning, all the steamers descend the rapids ; and 
 down we saw several come at a fearful rate. One had 
 got foul of a rock, and there it stuck, past recovery. 
 None of the rapids, however, seemed half so dangerous, 
 nor half so wild, as what are called the Cataracts at 
 Fhilse, though more extensive. .. . 
 
 I must also refer to the Thousand Islands, as a vast 
 number of islands in the river are termed. There are 
 indeed, I believe, about 1500. On some of them are 
 lighthouses. Compared with the Grecian Archipelago, 
 they are dead as dishwater. But what would Canada 
 be without the St. Lawrence ? 
 
 On board I had a specimen or two of independence. 
 An English gentleman one morning called out, '* Boy, 
 bring me some water." No response. Again he called 
 in like manner ; and then I heard a dispute between a 
 youth and a boy. It was the youth's place to go. **/ 
 won't go," said he, "because he said J3oy." "And/ 
 won't go," said the boy, "because it's not my place." 
 It ended in the gentleman having to fetch the water 
 himself. 
 
 The boat may be fairly described as a large barge, 
 with decks open on both sides, cabins and paddles ; a 
 box on the top, near the bows, in which stood the 
 helmsman. 
 
 In the afternoon we arrived at Kingston, and went on 
 shore. There was a high wind, and the town, the 
 streets not being paved, was enveloped in dust, as badly 
 as I ever saw Cairo. This is at the foot of Lake Ontario. 
 Knowing how dangerous the lakes are in a storm, I 
 asked one of the men if he thought the captain would 
 go. **I should say not," he replied; "but I am not 
 the commander." We did go, however, leaving about 
 7.30. It was soon evident that we should have a stormy 
 night; and indeed we had. I was up several times. 
 The wind was howling and the waves dashing fearfully 
 against tho boat ; and the boat heeled so much to lee- 
 
VISIT TO AMEBICA. 41 
 
 ward that I could touch the water with my hand. About 
 5 in the morning I was aroused by the voices and hurry- 
 ing footsteps of many persons. I found the captain 
 calling upon the passengers to assist in moving the 
 heavy goods from the fore, so as to raise the bows ; for 
 the water had forced open the forward hold door, and 
 was rushing into the hold. We had then nearly 9 feet 
 of water in the hold. The pumps, of course, were 
 found useless; they were choked; so the men were 
 baleing out the water with pails! In order to right 
 the boat a little, the goods, principally boxes of tin, 
 had to be put down, some on this side and some on 
 that ; so, as I could not do much at lifting, I stood and 
 gave the necessary directions, while the captain was 
 assisting in baleing out the water! The mate said it 
 would not be possible for the boat to live another hour 
 in the storm. We had been nearly two hours passing 
 an island only half a mile in length, and the engines 
 had only just about power enough to keep us from being 
 driven ashore. Having, at last, passed the island, we 
 turned into Presque Bay, under cover of the land to N., 
 and opposite a lighthouse. This bay has been the refuge 
 of many a boat in those terrific lake-storms. Wo 
 hoisted a signal ; but no one ventured out to us. We 
 had no breakfast for two hours behind the proper time. 
 Cooks, stewards, and even firemen had been ill during 
 the night. One gentleman was sitting on his berth, 
 when the boat gave a lurch, and he was pitched head 
 first half through the window, smashing the glass and 
 cutting his head severely. In the evening the wind 
 moderated, and the captain ordered the anchor to begot 
 up. Then it was found that the capstan was out of 
 order; so, after two hours' fruitless labour, and the wind 
 again increasing, the captain quietly went to his cabin 
 for the night. At 5 the next morning, without more 
 ado, we slipped our cable, left our anchor in the deep, 
 and made along the shore for Toronto. 
 
 In the same storm, a boat went down on Lake 
 Erie, and several persons were lost ; others got to the 
 shore in the boats. 
 
 We arrived at Toronto about 2.80. ** I wish you would 
 get my boat trimmed," said the captain to the agent; 
 ''for it wants it." " Yes," replied the agent; " get tin- 
 
42 J. oadsby's 
 
 loaded as soon as you can ; for you must go back at 
 once, and the passengers must go to Hamilton by rail.** 
 Mr. Captain did not seem to relish H. 
 
 Toronto is a fine city. The Queei s Park, or Univer- 
 sity Grounds should be visited. There is a monument 
 of Queen Victoria looking right down a splendid avenue 
 of four rows of trees. There is also a monument in 
 memory of the volunteers who fell at Bidgway, when 
 driving back the Fenians. 
 
 King Street and Young Street are good streets. The 
 new poEt office is also a good building. The streets 
 were very dusty ; but they were laying down wood pave- 
 ments, with asphalte and fine gravel over. Plank foot- 
 paths, too, are common, as at Quebec. 
 
 There are some large warehouses for dry goods ; and 
 in these, warm woollen cloths abound, exceedingly ne- 
 cessary in the winter. j ^j 
 
 As we were so much behind time, we did not linger. 
 Indeed, there was nothing to linger for; so a little after 
 8 we left by train for Hamilton, arriving at 10, and 
 going direct to the Koyal Hotel. Our rooms were excel- 
 lent and well furnished, and the bedding lily white. 
 There were no mosquitos ; but several times I had to 
 get up and strike a light, and turn my room and the bed 
 into a slaughter-house. I might have been in an hotel 
 in London, Liverpool, or New York. Here, as in the 
 hotels and railway stations in the States, were huge 
 spittoons, and a notice up, requesting gentlemen not to 
 spit on the carpets. Yes I And before you put down 
 your carpet-bag, either in the halls of the hotels or in 
 railway carriages or the stations, it is well to examine 
 the floor. Happy should I be if these remarks were the 
 means of curing any of the filthy habit. They are as 
 bad as the Spaniards. >« 
 
 At the Ottawa Hotel, Montreal, I was free from every- 
 thing; but the boats on the St. Lawrence gave strong 
 evidence of negligence, as well as the berths in the sleep- 
 ing cars on the railways. 
 
 The next day, Sept. 1st, was Sunday. Before break- 
 fast, I took my usual walk; and a pleasing one it was. 
 All was still as in Scotland on the Lord's day. Many 
 Bcotch, indeed, reside here. The streets are wide, many 
 with plank footpaths. 
 
VISIT TO AMEBIGA. 48 
 
 1 have 'nothing to relate further, only what will be 
 found under the head, '< Keligion." 
 
 As I understood that my nephew had only a fort- 
 night's furlough from his employers, and as we had 
 already been the time, I deemed it right to hurry on. 
 So early the next morning we left for the Falls, about 
 two hours' run from Hamilton. All along the line the 
 land had been cleared, and maize was growing in abun- 
 dance. The country looked prosperous. 
 
 From the station we took a carriage, not because of 
 the distance, for it is not far, but to save time. No 
 sooner had we alightc .it the Falls, nay, before we had 
 alighted, we were attacked by Canadian and State 
 Arabs, men and women, boring us to buy their curiosi- 
 ties. The only difference between these and the Arab 
 antiquity dealers at Thebes is, the one lot speak Eng- 
 lish, and the other don't. 
 
 THE FALLS OF NIAGAEA. 
 
 What shall I say of the Falls of Niagara ? On behold- 
 ing them, did I go "wild with amazement?'* Or did I 
 hold up my hands as if there were not such another 
 sight in the world ? I really did neither. The truth is, 
 I had expected too much. I had formed an exaggerated 
 view of them. I had been over the Apennines and the 
 Pyrennees and on the Alps, I had been three times to the 
 top of the Great Pyramid, I had seen waves rolling house 
 high, and my ideas had become too gigantic. Instead of 
 seeing the waters fall only about 160 feet, I had expected 
 to see them fall at least 500 feet. Yet, as I retired, the 
 breadth of the waters, their roaring, splashing, foaming, 
 and the dashing up of the spray, the wind blowing that 
 spray about in clouds in every direction, while they again 
 reflected the sun's rays in prismatic grandeur, made up 
 for all. It was one of the grandest sights I had ever 
 beheld. Again and again I turned to look, and each 
 time the scene increased in magnitude ; but I could not, 
 strive as I would, and I strove hard, say the height came 
 up to anything like my expectations. 
 
 The Falls may be properly divided into two, though 
 they are in reality one, divided by Goats' Island. The 
 breadth on the States side of the island is about 820 
 feet, and on the Canada side 700 feot, this being the 
 
44 J. gadsby's 
 
 Horse- Shoe Fall, — ^the shape something like a horse- 
 shoe. Imagine a horse-shoe, 700 feet opening at the 
 heel, and (with the other fall) about 400,500 tons of 
 water rushing over every part of it every minute, at a 
 height of 160 feet, and a thickness of 25 or 80 feet. You 
 can go a long way ere you can meet with the like. 
 
 The water runs from Lake Erie along the river about 
 88 miles to the Falls, then along Niagara river into 
 Lake Ontario, then down the St. Lawrence into the 
 Atlantic, passing Montreal, Quebec, &g. - 
 
 I did not go under the Falls, as I had no taste that 
 way. Waterproofs are to be had at the hotel for those 
 who want them. 
 
 My friend Mr. Copcutt visited the Falls twice, and 
 wrote a most exciting account of them. I could not 
 work myself up to the same pitch ; but I must say I left 
 the place most reluctantly, and regretted that I could 
 not tarry longer. 
 
 One more look, and we get into the carriage, and oflf 
 we go. We must stop, and look once more. How grand ! 
 As my friend Mr. Copcutt said, *' It seemed hard to turn 
 away and leave the spot." Yet here, to my thinking, as 
 in many other cases, ' > - . , - ^^ 
 
 "' Tis distance lends enchantment to the view." 
 
 The train is nearly due. "Drive on ! " We look behind 
 until there is a turn in the road, and then bid adieu to 
 one of the great wonders of the world. Yet, after all, 
 the Falls did not realize my expectations. ■,.^ 
 
 For height, the Falls of Montmorency are more im- 
 posing than those of Niagara, being about 100 feet 
 higher, but they are by no means so expansive. 
 
 NIAGABA TO CHICAGO. 
 
 As we had to travel all night, we secured berths in 
 the Pulman car, for Chicago, 80 hours from the Falls. 
 
 As before, in almost every part, we passed immense 
 tracts of land cleared, ditto partially so, with millions 
 of stumps waiting their turn to be burnt or grubbed, 
 and any quantity of corn, with here and there a wood 
 cottage. Cattle, sheep, &c., were more plentiful here- 
 abouts. Still my heart felt for the poor settlers; for 
 though in some cases it was doubtless a voluntary ezilei 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 46 
 
 in others it was a compulsory one ; for how could they 
 get a living in England, so over-populated ? 
 
 I was greatly fatigued, and early threw myself into 
 my berth. The engine stopped, and there was evidently 
 something unusual going on; so I got up. We were 
 being propelled on to a gigantic barge, or float, or raft, 
 or whatever we may call it. There was already another 
 train on, makug altogether 14 carriages, capable of 
 holding 1,000 persons. And we were all taken across 
 from Canada to Detroit, in the States, without any sea- 
 sickness; just as Mr. Evan Leigh, of Manchester, pro- 
 posed for the Channel from Dover to France, — a plan 
 far superior, I think, to Bessamer's. 
 
 After this I had some conversation with a gentleman 
 from the West, for particulars of which see under the 
 head "The People." 
 
 The distance from the Falls to Chicago is 480 miles. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 Before 6 o'clock in the morning (Sept. 8rd) I was 
 aroused by our black steward calling out, "Chicago! 
 Chicago !" Up I jumped, thinking we were just running 
 in. Not a bit of it ! We did not arrive for nearly three 
 hours afterwards. It was only Mr. Blackey that wanted 
 to " straighten up." Still it was just as well to be up in 
 time, though there was not much change in the cha- 
 racter of the scenery until we neared the town, and then 
 the line passed by myriads of ruins, caused by the great 
 fire. 
 
 Anxious to reach my niece's, at Greenwood, beyond 
 Woodstock, we took a car for the Chicago and North- 
 western line, on the other side of Chicago. What a 
 scene as we passed through the town! Hundreds of 
 houses rebuilt and occupied, hundreds in course of erec- 
 tion, and hundreds yet in ruins. What a fearful fire it 
 must have been 1 Property to the value of 250,000,000 
 dollars was destroyed, and 100,000 persons were ruined. 
 A new hotel, to cost 6,000,000 dols., and accommodate 
 1,000 guests, was in course of erection. Some of the 
 streets were being again paved with wood. 
 
 Chicago is built on a marsh, much of it below thd 
 level of the lake (Michigan). The houses were originally 
 erected on piles, as at Hamboigh; but now the pUes are 
 
46 J. GADSBY*3 
 
 dispensed with. As the wind blew, burning embers were 
 blown under the houses ; aud hence, in great part, the 
 fearful conflagration. No wonder that the fire reached 
 the shipping and consumed scores of vessels. The 
 bridges which had been destroyed were all reinstated, 
 and it was estimated that from the time, April 15th, 
 when the frost ended, up to the time I was there, one 
 house had been erected every hour. Not puny houses 
 either; but fine buildings with shops or warehouses, from 
 five to seven storeys high, and mostly of good brick, 
 though there were some new wood buildings. The car- 
 penters were demanding four dollars a day. Would not 
 rents get up in proportion ? And what would the car- 
 penters say when the high rents had to be paid ? . 
 
 Part of the town which was not destroyed, which we 
 visited on our return from Greenwood, was mostly of 
 wood, and not very fine. 
 
 On my return I also visited the celebrated Union Stock 
 Yard. This covers a space of 845 acres, and can ac- 
 commodate at once 27,000 cattle, 100,000 hogs, 50,000 
 sheep, and several thousands of horses. The ground is 
 admirably laid out, and fitted up with alleys, pens, &c. 
 
 My account of Chicago, as well as of other towns, may 
 be thought to be meagre; but I am not professing to 
 write descriptions; merely my own experiences in passing. 
 
 The people of Chicago, the papers told us, were loud in 
 their praise of the mother country for the aid sent them 
 in their extremity. The population at the time of the 
 fire was 350,000 ; in Sept., 1872, it was 400,000. 40,000 
 men were employed in rebuilding. 
 
 CHICAGO TO GKEENWOOD, AND RETUKN. 
 
 We left at 10 a.m. ; and I soon began to see cultiva- 
 tion as I wanted to see it. Look which way I would, 
 there was a vast expanse of maize, with cattle, wood, 
 villages, gardens, and orchards; the orchards loaded 
 with peaches, apples, &c.' It was a prairie, not of grass, 
 but of corn, &c. Boys in the train were selling Cali- 
 fornia pears 20 cents, each, far dearer than Jersey pears 
 in England, and by no means so good. 
 
 The distance from Chicago to Woodstock is 51 miles. 
 In about 24 hours we arrived at Woodstock; and then 
 our first care was to ascertain how we could reach 
 
VISIT TO AMEfilCA. 47 
 
 Greenwood six or seven miles off. We learnt that the 
 letter-carrier was in with his "mail cart," as we should 
 call it, and that he sometimes took passengers. After a 
 time we found that important personage, and secured 
 our seat. We then sought to refresh ourselves, and see- 
 ing " Befreshment Koom" over a door, we went in. *• Can 
 we have dinner?" ''Yes." "What have you?" "What 
 you like." "Have you beef?" "No." "Have you 
 mutton ?" " No." . " Well, then, what have you ?" " Apple 
 pier "Nothing else?" "No." " That will hardly do. 
 We must try elsewhere."* We soon found an hotel, 
 and then, having refreshed ourselves, explored the town. 
 
 And a nice little town it is ! All wood, of course ; but 
 good houses, good shops, good streets. In one part were 
 the ruins of " a block" of houses which had been burnt 
 down only a few nights before. Seeing we were strangers, 
 a gentleman volunteered to be our guide, and showed us 
 the principal buildings. From him I learnt that there 
 are in the town Universalists, Komanists, Congrega- 
 tionalists,Wesleyans, Presbyterians, and Close Calvinist 
 Baptists. ' ?r 
 
 We had a delightful drive to Greenwood, over a por- 
 tion of the Queen Anne Prairie, — highly cultivated, and 
 the air delicious. Our driver, I subsequently learnt 
 from my niece, had read my books with unbounded in- 
 terest, as he said. He knew not that he was driving 
 the author of them ; nor would he have known from me, 
 as I always prefer being incog. 
 
 My niece was born in England; and I well remember 
 that she was a nice girl and my favourite ; but neither 
 
 • This reminded me of the time when, with my late dear 
 wife, my late friend M'Kenzie and his wife, together with his 
 wife's sister and her husband, I was first in Scotland. We 
 slept at Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, in rooms so low that we 
 could not even sit upright on the beds. We left early to catch 
 the little steamer on Loch Katrine for the Trossachs. There 
 was a woman in a house by the lake. " Can we have break- 
 fast?" "Yes." "What can we have?" "Anything you like." 
 " Well, one would have tea, another cofiee, and another cocoa." 
 " Eh! ye canna' have tea, nor coffee, nor cocoa." " What, then, 
 can we have?" "Whisky and scons. That's all." So we had 
 to wait till we reached the Trossachs. Things a.e very different 
 now in all those parts. At Inversnaid there is a good hoteL 
 
48 .J. oadsby's 
 
 44 years added to her life, nor the climate of Amerioa, 
 had improved her appearance. • >,-..«., :'M 
 
 Well, now I was in the very heart of small farmers ; 
 and from my niece's husband I obtained some curious 
 information as to their mode of living, or in some cases, 
 vegetating. (See head "Agriculture," &c.) He was 
 brought up at Fall Eiver, in the manufacturing way ; 
 and I told him I thought the sooner he went back to 
 Fall Eiver the better ; for though I am amazingly fond 
 of farming, I could see no pleasure in such an exiled 
 life as his. He keeps his cows, and the milk goes twice 
 a day to the cheese factory. 
 
 Various winged creatures, — flies by the million, as 
 well as quadrupeds ; rats in abundance, make the place 
 somewhat lively, otherwise it would be dull and desolate 
 enough. I once told an American gentleman that the 
 savans who were exploring the Eocky Mountains said 
 they were attacked by mosquitos 8,000 feet above the 
 sea. "0! " replied he; "I don't care for the thousand, 
 if they don't come by the million! " How delightful I «^ 
 
 My niece and her husband assured me the sky was so 
 illuminated by the Chicago fire that, though 60 miles 
 distant, they could distinctly see the reflection. About 
 the same time several woods were on fire. The air was 
 80 impregnated with the smoke that the food tasted of 
 it. Passengers in the trains had to lie flat at the bottom 
 of the carriages, and were almost suffocated and roasted. 
 
 We drove into the village, my niece living outside. 
 All seemed quiet enough. We passed an orchard, in 
 which were lying quantities of apples. We had per- 
 mission to help ourselves, and we did so. Amongst 
 them were Spitzenbergs, which are some of the best 
 apples I ever ate in my life. I think they are superior 
 to the well-known Newtown pippins, though they will 
 not keep so long. 
 
 1 BETUEN TO NEW YOEK.— WASHINGTON, 
 PHILADELPHIA, &c. 
 
 We re-arrived at Chicago soon after 10 o'clock in the 
 morning of Sept. 4th, and left at 5 p.m. by the Pitts- 
 burg, Fort Wayne, and Chicago Eailway, for Washing' 
 ton. Washington was out of the way, but I felt that I 
 ekonld haye no other opportunity of seeing that cek' 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA, 49 
 
 brated city, and I calculated that by travelling bard we 
 could reach Yonkers by the Saturday night, staying one 
 night at Philadelphia, and we could not do much more 
 if we went direct. 
 
 I pass by here the adventures of the night, as I pur- 
 pose giving something of them under the head <' Bail- 
 ways." Suffice it to say that, having secured a corner 
 seat, or rather the comer seat, for there is only one 
 which is tenable in any of the carriages, I passed the 
 night tolerably well, until about 4 a.m., and then, for 
 reasons hereafter to be given, rest was out of the ques- 
 tion. (See head, *' The People.") 
 
 At 8.45 we stopped for breakfast at Alliance, State of 
 Ohio. There was little change in the appearance of the 
 country, — partly well cultivated, partly wood, partly 
 corn, partly wild, until we arrived at Pittsburg, in Penn- 
 sylvania, about noon ; and then we came to a place of 
 true industry. Iron and coal abound in incalculable 
 quantities. It is estimated that in and around the dis- 
 trict there are 22,000 square miles of coal-beds, to say 
 nothing of iron. 
 
 We then began to ascend the Allegheny (or Alle- 
 ghany, as some spell it) mountains, winding round and 
 round, following the course of the river, which takes its 
 rise near the top of the mountains. The scenery is beau- 
 tiful to begin with ; but it grew more and more and still 
 more beautiful as we ascended. Those of my readers 
 who have passed through Matlock and Bakewell may 
 form some, though only a partial, idea of it. Unhappily, 
 it was a regular British day. That is, at Pittsburg and 
 almost all the way up it was foggy, and drizzled with 
 rain ; but when for a moment or two it cleared up, the 
 view burst upon us in true grandeur. We have nothing 
 in England Uke it. Still, it was not equal to the view 
 we get from the Apennines, in Italy, or from the Jura, 
 looking over Geneva. Nevertheless, if I were a younger 
 man, and my life were spared, I would not hesitate to 
 visit the place again, and tarry there a few days. It 
 was delightfully cool, too, which was another good fea- 
 ture of the place, — a little more British. 
 
 I was amazed, and yet why should I have been? at 
 the immense number of returning empty coal trains we 
 met. The line ought to pay the shareholders well. We 
 
IP J. oadsdy's 
 
 passed two trains which had been smashed. One had 
 been laden with Indian corn, and the dibris lay scattered 
 About. The traffic is too much for the line. 
 
 I might speak of several places which we passed, but 
 I forbear. In the evening we arrived at Altoona, at 
 the top of the mountain. Here were the railway car- 
 riage works, and it was evidently a thriving spot. In- 
 deed, the whole country is thriving. Here, too, we had 
 the best dinner, indeed the only good one I bad all the 
 time I was out. The railway restaurants in America 
 are too much like our own in this respect. Still foggy. 
 
 That part of the mountain which we crossed is not, 
 perhaps, more than 8,000 feet high, and is not worthy 
 the name of a mountain compared with the Hocky Moun- 
 tains and many others. It is a portion of a chain, called 
 the Appallachian, running about 1,200 miles from N.E. 
 to S., or thereabouts, the highest portion of which is 
 about 8,600 feet above the level of the sea. But I must 
 not particularize. 
 
 At Harrisburg we had to change lines for Baltimore, 
 and then be conveyed in an omnibus to the line for 
 Washington. We had no alternative but to go on through 
 another night or be thrown over Sunday ere we reached 
 Yonkers. We arrived at Washington about 6 a.m., 
 Sept. 6th. Calm and lovely was the morning. ** Darkies " 
 of both sexes were to be seen in considerable numbers, 
 thus early attending to their respective duties, while not 
 a ** white " was visible, except two policemen, who sent 
 us out of our way. If a man be not sure about the bear- 
 ings, he should be careful how he ventures to guide or 
 direct. This was the more vexing, as we had only a few 
 hours in which to traverse the city. We went pretty well 
 over it, however, visiting the White House, the Presi- 
 dent's residence, then under repair, the State House, and 
 the Capitol. The streets are awkwardly wide. The houses 
 on either side, of some of them at least, are so far from 
 each other that they seem as if they were afraid of 
 facing each other. I was, however, greatly pleased with 
 the city altogether, and with my brief visit. The air was 
 exhilarating, and my health was good, through the Lord's 
 continued goodness. 
 
 Our way to New York was through Baltimore, Phila- 
 delpbifty Wilmington^ &c. At Baltimore our railway oar* 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 61 
 
 riage was drawn through tho town by five horses, from 
 the Washingtou lino to tho Philadelphia one. Now, how- 
 ever, I believe, there is what is called tho Union Line 
 for engines. We were not only taken along the main 
 street, but right through the market place, a man blow- 
 ing a horn to warn tho carts, &o., to get out of the way. 
 
 I would not have stopped at Philadelphia had I not 
 wanted to see an old friend or two; one of whom, how- 
 ever, I learnt was dead, and the other I could not find, 
 though I found one of tho same name and from the 
 same town (Eochdale). 
 
 Philadelphia has been well described as the Queen of 
 the States. A week might well be spent in the city. It 
 seemed as busy as New York, and is a superior city to 
 New York. Marble was as plentiful as in Italy, and the 
 streets A 1. I began to feel sorely fatigued, and was 
 again approaching prostration point, from the extreme 
 heat. Had I found the friend I wanted, I should have 
 stayed all night, as I had originally intended doing; 
 but, failing that, we pushed on, and arrived at Yonkers 
 about 11 p.m. 
 
 I only add, there is some fine scenery on the line near 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 The next day I hardly knew what to do with myself, 
 having again to endure the heat, the thermometer 
 ranging as high as ever. 1 ventured, however, to New 
 York; but returned as soon as I could. 
 
 On the 12th I gave a lecture in the Lecture Hall of 
 the Baptist chapel. My Biblical Illustrations were en- 
 tirely new to the people, and excited considerable inte- 
 rest. I gave a similar one in New York on the 16th, and 
 sliBpt at my friend Axford's, free from mosquitos and 
 everything else objectionable. 
 
 The 14th I spent with my friend Copcutt, at Yonkers, 
 It was indeed a treat to go through his orchards and 
 grounds. For many years Mr. C. sent £d yearly to Mr. 
 Philpot for the A.P.F.S., and he continues it to Mrs. P. 
 I must not say more, lest I should seem to be invi- 
 dious. He has erected a silk-mill for his eldest son. I 
 went over it, and saw in it undoubted suecess. The 
 girls at work in it were healthy-looking, far more so 
 than any ladies I saw in New York. And I may say (he 
 
62 J. oadsby's 
 
 same of the girls in the lead-pencil mill at Yonkers, and 
 especially of those in a large type-founding establishment 
 at Boston, which, unhappily, was utterly destroyed in 
 the great fire in that city. Some of the girls earned 
 six dollars a week. They were all in really ** good con- 
 dition," and as merry as larks. 
 
 One Sunday afternoon, when sitting with my sister- 
 in-law and my nephews and nieces, using our fans 
 freely, two ladies came from one of the Presbyterian 
 churches to ask me if I would be good enough to attend 
 their "concert." "Concert!" I exclaimed. "A con- 
 cert on a Sunday afternoon, and in a place of worship, 
 tool What rfo you mean?" " 0, John," my sister-in- 
 law said, •* they do not mean a concert in your sense of 
 the word ; but once a month teachers and friends meet 
 in the church in the afternoon, and, instead of the 
 usual lessons, have some person of good repute to ad- 
 dress them ; so they want you to go and address them." 
 This was very different to what I had thought. "But," 
 I said, " how can I go ? The perspiration is pouring off 
 me now, while sitting still." However, I thought I 
 might be the means of doing some good; so I went; and 
 I believe the people heard some things they hud never 
 heard before, in addition to having some passages of 
 scripture explained, which, as many of them, for many 
 came to me to thank me, said had puzzled them many 
 a time. To my mind this is a branch of education 
 which not only ought not to be neglected, but greatly 
 cultivated in all Sunday schools. 
 
 THE PEOPLE. 
 
 In this chapter I shall speak as impartially as if I 
 were writing about my own countrymen. I have no 
 frown to fear, no smile to court. 
 
 We in England divide our people into three classes, 
 — upper, middle, and lower; i.e., 1, The aristocracy ; 2, 
 Betired gentlemen and well-to-do merchants, profes- 
 sionals, and tradesmen ; and 3, Arti&ans. I by no means 
 approve of such a division. Many of our labouring 
 classes constitute a true aristocracy, and some of our 
 aristocracy, for uprightness and true religious feeling, 
 are not worthy to wipe the shoes of some of our labour- 
 ing men. Still I assert, without fear of bebg proved 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 58 
 
 wrong, that, as a whole, no aristocracy in the world 
 stands higher for integrity and kindly feeling than ours. 
 
 I will, however, divide the Americans into three 
 classes, though not in the same way. Those of the 
 first class know that there are other peoples in the 
 world quite as good as themselves and other countries 
 equal to their own, though not so extensive. The 
 second class think it just possible that there may be other 
 peoples as good as themselves and other countries equal 
 to their own, but, having been educated in the schools 
 universally to believe otherwise, it is no easy matter for 
 them to break through their prejudices. The third 
 class ridicule the idea of there being either people or 
 country in any way to be compared with themselves or 
 their own. And on this point they are positively insane. 
 Go into a lunatic asylum and talk with the inmates ; 
 you will find most of them sane enough except on some 
 one particular point. It may have been a loss of pro- 
 perty ; it may have been a disappointment in love ; it 
 may be, like the poet Cowper's, a state of despair in the 
 matter of religion. Keep them respectively off that one 
 point, and you will find them sane enough ; but on that 
 particular point they are so insane that they have to be 
 confined. So with these poor Americans of the third 
 class. Talk to them upon any subject except themselves 
 and their country, — especially except upon England and 
 America or English and Americans, and you will find 
 them kind, intelligent, and courteous ; but upon those 
 subjects they are positively lunatic. Their people are 
 the only ones who have common sense, their cities the 
 only cities worthy the name of cities, their institutions 
 the only right ones, their flag the only " flag of liberty." 
 And this class, unhappily, constitute the great mass of 
 the people. They are as much to be pitied and sympa- 
 thized with as the poor lunatics in Colney Hatch or 
 Hanwell. Say as they say, and you will "get along" 
 well with them ; but contradict them on these points, 
 and you will find them offensively insulting. As an 
 American gentleman once said to me, "It's of no use 
 denying it; we are made up of brag gas." They are, in- 
 deed, animated lumps of vanity, and are as offensive to 
 the better classes in the country as to us. 
 
 I onoe leotared to the poor lunatics in St. Luke's 
 
54 J. gadsby's 
 
 Asylum, City Road, London; and a more attentive 
 audience I never had. For the moment, they forgot 
 their sorrows, their attention being fixed upon my illus- 
 trations and the characters I had dressed in Oriental 
 costume. Bo with these third-class Americans. Keep 
 them from themselves and their country, and you will 
 find them everything you can desire, — commercially, 
 socially, intellectually ; not only as good as yourselves, 
 but probably, in some respects, a great deal better. 
 But once touch that cracked bell, and your ears will 
 soon tingle and your hearts heave with sympathy. The 
 Earl of Denbigh once said in the House of Peers that h6 
 was first a Eoman Catholic, then an Englishman; mean- 
 ing that he would, if necessary, sacrifice his country for 
 the Pope. So with the Americans referred to. They are 
 first Americans, then men of common sense. 
 
 Are all we English free from this ? Not a bit of it. 
 I have met with some English abroad who, had I had 
 my will, should have been sent home in the steerage of 
 a sailing ship, to teach them that they were no better 
 than other folks. When going to Chicago there was an 
 English " gentleman " in the Pulman car. Over and 
 over again, passing from section to section (compart- 
 Lient to compartment), I heard him boasting, *'/ always 
 dine at six o'clock. / don't like these American midday 
 dinners." And so on. And his wife positively blocked 
 up the passage with her portmanteau, emptying it to 
 rearrange her things, while several persons were waiting 
 to pass. I remonstrated with her, and made a way by 
 pushing her things on one side with my foot, much to the 
 satisfaction of the bystanders, who were too polite to do 
 it themselves. Nor should I have been rude enough to 
 do so had the lady not been a countrywoman of my own 
 and in a foreign land. Such as these I never spare, 
 for they bring disrepute upon their country. But, as 
 " two blacks do not make one white," so bad English- 
 men do not justify bad Americans. ' 
 
 Yet prejudiced as many even of the native-born Ame- 
 ricans are now, the next generations will be more so ; 
 for one of the main elements taught in the schools is 
 antagonism, in many cases bitter hatred, to England, 
 her institutions, and her people. The first two classes 
 must either arouse themselves ere it be too late, or 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 55 
 
 nothing but a military despotism will save them from 
 anarchy. They are now, though they see it not, ai 
 much under a despotism of one kind as Bussia is of 
 another. Here are the two extremes, and it is remark- 
 able how they support each other. 
 
 Now why should these things be ? There is not a 
 school in all Great Britain where a word of animosity 
 against the Americans is ever uttered. They are always 
 welcomed to our shores, and are never looked upon 
 or even called by us foreigners, while the people of 
 every other country in the world, except those of our 
 colonies, are. Take our newspapers. You never see 
 America put under the head "Foreign." Take our 
 Stock Exchange lists. You never see America included 
 under " Foreign Bonds " or " Foreign Bailways ; " but 
 always under '' American Bonds " or " American Bail- 
 ways." Yet, so far from reciprocating, the great mass 
 of the Americans class us with the Irish, believing that 
 they cannot use a more oiBfensive epithet. 
 
 If you want popular applause, abuse the English. If 
 you want to secure your election, abuse the English. 
 But by the better classes the English are always wel- 
 comed to their shores. If he be known as a good preacher 
 or lecturer, he will be met at the steamer or the railway 
 station, and conducted with all honours to his head- 
 quarters, and the like honour will be done him on his 
 departure. 
 
 When Mr. Froude lately was lecturing in the States, 
 he did not succeed. Why ? Because, as the American 
 papers admitted, he spoke in favour of England, and that 
 was ** counter to three -fourths of his audiences." This 
 perfectly agrees with my own views as to Class 8, — that 
 it numbers more than the other two classes together. 
 
 The few in America look on and grieve, knowing well 
 how matters really stand; but they are utterly powerless. 
 The first two classes would be as friendly with us as we 
 desire to be with them; but their voices are compara- 
 tively feeble; their votes at elections are often never 
 given at all, and, when given, are swallowed up by the 
 popular and clamorous leviathan. Included in this 
 mass are the Irish and many who have left or ab-> 
 sconded from England, and of whom, for the most part, 
 we were only too glad to get rid. 
 
66 J. OADSBY*S 
 
 It may be remembered that the Golossenm at Boston 
 was opened by the band of our guards playing our 
 national air, and we read in the papers that the shouts 
 of applause were most deafening, the whole audience, 
 perhaps 80,000, rising en masse. This was perfectly 
 true. But were they all applauding because it was our 
 national air? Not so. There were hundreds of English 
 presenii and hundreds of Americans of the 1st and 2nd 
 classes, and all these did respond heartily to our na- 
 tional air ; but the remainder applauded because they 
 also have a song, or hymn, to the same air, and it was 
 that they applauded. The hymn is in the children's 
 hymn book. I extract the following : 
 
 " My country, 'tis of thee, ^ ■ 
 
 Sweet land of liberty, ■' 
 
 Oftheelsingl 
 . ' Land where my fathers died, ■> .. 
 
 L- \ Land of the pilgrims' pride, ^ 
 
 From every mountain side . .{ 
 
 Let f\:eedom ring. 
 
 'My native country, thee, — 
 Land of the noble, free, ^ 
 
 Thy name I love. 
 I love thy rocks and rills, 
 Thy woods and templed hills 
 My heart with rapture thrills, 
 
 Like those above." 
 
 
 < 
 
 ■;■^^•. 
 
 But you need not wonder at this. Every man who 
 loves his country will and ought to speak well of it, 
 and does not like to hear it spoken against ; though the 
 Americans carry their prejudices in this respect farther, 
 I believe, than any other people in the world — even 
 than the French, and that is saying a great deal. 
 
 I went one day with my friend Axford into a restau- 
 rant in New York for dinner. Mr. A. sat opposite to 
 me, and next to him a respectably-dressed person and 
 another next to me. The one next to me said to the 
 other, whom he knew, ** My daughter is going to be 
 married." "Indeed I To whom?" "0! To a Eng- 
 lishman!" <*Well. Is he steady and industrious?" said 
 the other ; ** for that's the main thing." "01 He's well 
 
 enough for that; but he's an Englishman." My own 
 
 Tiew was, as I said to Mr. A. afterwards, if the daughter 
 
VISIT TO AJIERICA. 57 
 
 took after the father, the poor Englishman would have 
 the worst of the bargain. 
 
 On board the steamer, when returning to England, 
 there were several well-to-do men from California ; and 
 there appeared to be no lack of gold amongst them ; for 
 they threw it upon the table by wholesale, as care- 
 lessly as though they did not care if any of the rest of us 
 took it up. "I am surprised," I said, "that with so 
 much gold as you have in California you should have a 
 paper currency." One of them, who up to that time had 
 been speaking only French, called out most emphatically, 
 " We haven t, and never would have. We have all metal !" 
 *'Oho!" said another. *• I thought you could not speak 
 English." ** Well," he replied, ''it is against my prin- 
 ciples ; for I hate them ; but I forgot myself." 
 
 The worst of the third-class school that I ever met 
 with was on board the "Ebro," as we were going to 
 Lisbon last February. He was born in Pennsylvania. 
 His wife, a most quiet and amiable lady, born in one of 
 the Carolinas, was with him. They were going to South 
 America, — the River Plate, I think. His abuse of the 
 poor British surpassed everything I had ever read or 
 before heard ; and if his wife attempted to say a word 
 in modification, she was silenced by him as though she 
 were his slave. Yet even he, when calm one morning, 
 said, << I must admit that there are four institutions in 
 England which are unequalled in any other part of the 
 world, — the post, the police, the metropolitan system of 
 railways, and the Hansom cabs." What an admission! 
 As to the first three, I agree with him ; but I differ as to 
 the Hansoms. I have seen more of these ' * Patent Safetys" 
 come to grief than I ever saw of the four-wheelers. But 
 the metropolitan Hansoms are clumsy, ugly vehicles, 
 compared with those in Liverpool and Manchester. 
 
 The " New York Herald" encpurages this class of men ; 
 but the first and second-class would no more patronize 
 that paper than I would buy the London " Daily Tele- 
 graph," or any semi-infidel paper. 
 
 I do not wonder at Americans speaking well of our 
 post, when they compare it with their own. I sent two 
 letters from Yonkers to my niece at Boston, and neither 
 of them, though fully and correctly directed, ever reached 
 her, a circumstance which caused great inconvenience. 
 
 o2 
 
88 J. oadsby's 
 
 Dr. Macaulay says that the Americans do not care a 
 straw about what other nations, the English excepted, say 
 of them ; and they will stand ten times as much from any 
 other nation as they will from us. This is true ; and the 
 people are most sensitive and resentful as to what we 
 say of them. Whether this arises from love or envy, I 
 will not undertake to decide. Certain it is that had our 
 Government been as vindictive, quarrelsome, and fana- 
 tical as theirs, thousands of lives would long ago have 
 been sacrificed in an awful war. But, happily, we are 
 for peace. 
 
 A silly American named Bates laid a wager with some 
 of his countrymen sillier than he that he coulv^ carry 
 the American flag through England without being in- 
 sulted. Of course he accomplished the task and won 
 his wager. He knew more of the character of the Eng- 
 lish than those he betted with. We can afford -to smile 
 at the eccentricities of others. If they will let us alone 
 we will let them alone; for we, are neither envious nor 
 jealous of any. 
 
 The American papers are continually speaking of the 
 utter recklessness of life in America. Sometimes their 
 articles, as I have seen, have been headed, "Another 
 Wholesale Murder!" "Wooden Pegs used for the 
 Sleepers on Railways I" " Another Steamer Blown Up !" 
 And so on. Though I do not think they are as reckless 
 as they were formerly, still there is recklessness enough. 
 When we arrived at a station about 4 o'clock in the 
 morning, on our way from Chicago to Pittsburg, there 
 was a sudden rush into the carriage. Not only was 
 every vacant seat speedily occupied ; but, inside and on 
 the steps, &c., there were about 100 persons standing, 
 packed like matches in a lucifer box. "Well," I said to 
 myself, "will the springs or wheels stand this? This is 
 America all over, — an utter recklessness as to life?" 
 When we started, bump, bump, bump, we went on the 
 wheels, first on one side and then on the other. I ex- 
 pected every moment to see the bottom of the carriage 
 stove in or the wheels give way. Our new passengers, 
 of both sexes, did nothing but laugh and joke all the 
 way. They were going to Mansfield fair ; and thankful 
 enough I was when, in about 1^ hour, we got rid of them. 
 I told the conductor it was exceedingly wrong to run lo 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 58 
 
 great a risk. *'0!" he replied. "We oould not penuadt 
 them to stop for a special train, which was to run." I 
 fancy that in Europe there would have been something 
 more used than mere persuasion. The fair- visitors would 
 have a sad time of it after all, as it rained heavily when 
 we arrived at Mansfield, and continued to do so, with ill 
 at least, most of the day. a 
 
 In the States there are 40,000,000 people. I saw ill 
 December last what purported to be an authentic state- 
 ment of crimes committed in the country, and it was as- 
 serted that in the States there were five murders a day, 
 or upwards of 1700 a year. In the State of Florida 
 there was one murder in every 4000 of the people; in 
 Arkansas and Louisiana one in 6000 ; in Kansas one in 
 8000; in Mississippi one in 9000; in Georgia one in 
 10,000; in California one in 12,000; and so on. Even 
 in Pennsylvania there was one in 60,000, and New York 
 one in 62,000. There were at the time the account was 
 published no less than 22 in New York city prison wait- 
 ing their trial for murder. Y^'et convictions by juries 
 were so rare that some papers recommended "vigilance 
 committees " and " lamp-post justice;" i.e.. Lynch law. 
 " Juries," says an account I have before me, " are a/raid 
 to convict and judges to condemn." Their own lives are 
 in jeopardy. 
 
 And as for pocket-picking, and swindling in every way, 
 the crimes are beyond all calculation. Bailways, mines, 
 and various other public undertakings, all come in to aid 
 the clever ** speculator." Kail ways are mortgaged and 
 Bonds issued when there is no Stock; i.e., nothing to 
 mortgage. And as for mines, the accounts are terrific. 
 The directors of one mine raised a million sterling, pro- 
 mising a dividend of 18 per cent., payable monthly. Yet 
 in four months only, instead of a profit, there appears to 
 have been an absolute loss of £50,960, in addition to the 
 million paid for the mine, which is reported as twamped* 
 
 Diamond and ruby fields were said to have been dis- 
 covered in California. Happily no English, AmerioaSB 
 only, were taken in here ; for it turned out that the 
 "speculators" had been to London and purchased 
 £100,000 of the precious stones in the rough, and spread 
 them over the fields. No others were to be found. 
 
 I would caution all my readers to beware of Amerioaa 
 
60 J. oadsby's 
 
 mines and railways, though the security of some of the 
 lines, such as the Pennsylvania Central, must, I think, 
 be good. Millions of our money are invested in Ameri- 
 oan railways ; and if the people will only practise good 
 faith they may have millions more. But only last April 
 the State of Ohio passed a law that if a majority of the 
 shareholders of any railway in the State wished to do 
 certain things which they considered would he for the 
 benefit of the concern they should not do so without 
 buying up the stock of the minority. Now why was 
 this ? Because it was ascertained that the majority con- 
 sisted of Europeans, and the Bill was passed ''with in- 
 decent haste," as the papers said. 
 
 And another thing has come to light; viz., watering 
 the shares in a railway. A railway is paying tolerably 
 well, and the shares are at a premium, say of £5, as in 
 one case before me. The directors, unknown to the 
 public, issue to the shareholders new shares, — one share 
 for every share held. The shareholders sell the shares 
 at the £5 premium, and thus swindle the public out of 
 thousands of pounds; for the next dividend is neces- 
 sarily reduced one-half. Yet there is no law to punish 
 these men. I take the above from a report of a Select 
 Committee appointed by the Legislature of the State of 
 New York. 
 
 Who has not heard of the disgraceful transactions of 
 Jay Gould, of the Erie Bailway ? And we are now told 
 that Horace Clark, of the New York Central Bailway, 
 is willing to join him in his transactions. " Under these 
 circumstances," say the papers, ** the idea of purging 
 the State Legislature of its corrupt elements has appa- 
 rently long been given up." 
 
 " Silver mines in Utah," says the '* Wall Street 
 Journal," ''without any silver in them!" Some silver 
 bricks were exhibited, said to have been taken from the 
 mines, and large quantities of rich ore lay on the banks. 
 Shares were taken up greedily to the amount of 165,000 
 dole., and then it was discovered that the bricks and 
 ore had been purchased in Chicago for the occasion. 
 
 Corruption prevails in every department, from the 
 President downwards. While I was in America, no less 
 than three supreme judges were cashiered for taking 
 l^ribes. The President's confidential assistant was said 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 61 
 
 to be guilty of gross misappropriation of moneys. His 
 case was brought before the Senate; but that Upper 
 House refused, by a majority of seven, to punish him. 
 How could they punish him, when perhaps hardly a 
 man amongst them had clean hands ? As the American 
 papers said, " Past and present Presidents, Secretaries 
 of State, Judges, Senators, anrl officials of all ranks, 
 are guilty of every species of malversation of office, of 
 peculation, and of fraud." General Grant's name had 
 been mixed up in several dubious transactions, and 
 men who were about him and had been and continued 
 to be in the closest relations with him were directly in- 
 culpated in something worse than scandals. Many of 
 the people (third class) laugh, and say they only wish 
 they had the same chance. It is a necessary result of 
 the Constitution. 
 
 And is the House of Representatives (House of Com- 
 mons) any better? Let those who are in the habit of 
 reading American news in American papers judge for 
 themselves. In that House, as in every State, you may 
 secure the passing of any Bill you please, if you can 
 only pass a sufficient number of gifts out of your bosom 
 into the bosoms of the lawmakers. (Prov. xvii. 23.) 
 
 The members of the United States Parliament are all 
 paid, both of the House of Bepresentatives and of the 
 Senate. When they last broke up they voted themselves 
 5,000 dols. each above their usual pay, because, they 
 said, everything was so much dearer; forgetting that 
 they, by their high tariff, had made everything dearer. 
 The papers described the act as "plunder." 
 
 We must not forget that every time the President is 
 changed, viz., every four years, the employes in every de- 
 partment are changed also; so that the said employes 
 have only four years in which to make their fortunes ; 
 and it would be something new if they did not make the 
 best of their time. It was publicly asserted, and not de- 
 nied, that Gen. Grant spent above a million sterling of the 
 public money in the securing of his re-election. There 
 are 60,000 employes who would probably be turned out 
 if Grant were. Hence these were the proper parties to 
 trust with "the needful" to "palm" where necessary. 
 \ Was it surprising, therefore, that Grant was re-elected? 
 
6fl J. 0AD8BY*S 
 
 had a New York paper sent me, giving an account of 
 the election in Philadelphia. It was declared that, 
 under the protection of the police, some blacks Toted 
 twelve times; so that "the number of persons voting 
 was out of all proportion to the number of inhabitants." 
 In Indiana and Ohio States there was " an unparalleled 
 amount of cheating, large numbers of negroes being 
 taken to vote from Kentucky." But this was really 
 nothing, compared with what did take place. The 
 doings, according to the papers, on behalf of Grant, 
 were *' a scandal to any people." Nor was the other 
 side one whit better, only that they had not the public 
 purse to draw from, merely their own. One paper used 
 the words of O'Connell: " The first in matchless impu- 
 dence surpassed; the next in virulence." What are 
 Class I. doing amid all this ? Simply remaining neutral. 
 
 But I need not say more upon this subject. The 
 Americans are a dollar-making people, and dollars they 
 will have. 
 
 In the State of Maine no one is allowed to sell intoxi- 
 cating liquors. Does no one sell them ? Ask the police. 
 In Massachusetts ale may be sold, but not wines or 
 spirits. Are none sold? Over many doors we see the 
 ominous words: "Wines and Spirits." The authorities 
 have power to search every house licensed to sell ale. 
 Do they never find wines or spirits ? Yes, unless they 
 find instead a 20 or 50 dollar note. Nor is this state of 
 things peculiar to Massachusetts. The facts are as 
 well known as that bakers sell bread. ** Speaking of 
 liquor," says one American paper, "we know of one 
 hotel that sold nearly a thousand dollars' worth of wines 
 and other liquors on a single Sunday; and yet, if wo 
 are not in error, there is a liquor law in this State." 
 
 In consequence of reports, special messengers were 
 sent from Washington to look after the customs officers 
 itt-New York. Did they find anything wrong ? or did 
 they go shares in the spoil ? 
 
 I read in the papers whilst I was there that a certain 
 lady, a Mrs. Fair, had to be tried for some crime. For 
 four days her counsel kept objecting to the jury, &c. 700! 
 bad been summoned and only four accepted; so that 
 there was every probability the patience of the court 
 would b« exhausted and the prisoner would be released. 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 68 
 
 And a Freemason told me that at Maldon, Massaolmsetts, 
 a magistrate would not sign a warrant, because it was 
 against a Freemason. And if a Freemason be on his trial, 
 all jurymen are objected to until twelve Freemasons, 
 known, of course, by their secret signs, are found; and 
 then — do they find the prisoner guilty ? 
 
 "I say. Judge," said one man to a magistrate; "you 
 had better let that man go, as I was the means of get- 
 ting you your appointment." "0 well," replied the 
 judge; "as that was the case I'll send him to prison." 
 " But," called out another man, "you remember such a 
 thing, at such a time. Now I think you'd better let him 
 go right off." And right off the judge lets him go. 
 
 In New Orleans a public man named Kellog gave 
 offence to a party. He was fired at, and " bets were 
 laid in the bar-rooms that he would be assassinated 
 before three days." Was not this the way to cause his 
 assassination? But all that amounts to nothing. 
 
 The United States have suffered a serious loss in the 
 death of Chief Justice Chase. This judge ever showed 
 himself firm against illegal proceedings. After the war. 
 Congress passed a Bill which was unconstitutional, and 
 Justice Chase, with a majority of his compeers, declared 
 it to be illegal. Congress then passed a Bill to increase 
 the number of judges, and President Grant appointed 
 the new judges to oppose Chase. The former Bill was, 
 on appeal, declared to be legal. This is how things are 
 done in America. Neither law nor Constitution avails. 
 
 Now, before the Americans condemn our institutions 
 and set up their own as superior to ours, I think they 
 ought to show us that under theirs their morality and 
 religion are superior to ours, and that crime with them is 
 less than with us. But while the balance in every case 
 is in our favour (and bad as we are in all the cases, the 
 balance is still immensely in our favour), we think we 
 may fairly say, " Keep to yours', if you please; but we 
 see no reason why we should change for yours. If yours 
 really be better than ours, by all means let us see it." 
 
 I have said that the Americans of the first and second 
 classea are as much under a despotism as the Eussians 
 are. Now only in my brief travels I met with the fol- 
 •lowing and other oases, though not quite so bad: 
 
 A lady in a silk dress was sitting near to moi on ont 
 
84 J. oadsby's 
 
 occasion. The seat next to her was vacant. A clumsy, 
 dirty-looking fellow threw himself upon it, at the same 
 time sittiog upon her dress and putting one foot upon 
 the lower part of it. I looked amazed. The lady blushed, 
 and bowed to me in acknowledgment of my incompar- 
 able look ; but of course she did not speak. Was he not 
 as good as she? Yes, and a great deal better; for he 
 was one who sent representatives to Parliament, while 
 she was only — a wom^-n. 
 
 On another occasion, a youth was going round with a 
 can of water, there being none in the railway carriage. 
 A rough-looking man seized the glass and spilt the water 
 over a lady's dress. Did he apologize ? Nothing of the 
 kind. I moved for the lady to come and sit next to me, 
 as I was alone in the corner; but, though she grace- 
 fully acknowledged my courtesy, she did not venture to 
 change her seat. 
 
 And I have seen ladies tucking up their dresses, as 
 their fellow- occupants of the seats have been continu- 
 ally chewing tobacco and spitting, the latter of which 
 we sometimes see in our third-class carriages and 
 smoking compartments in England, and to a large 
 extent in Scotland. But if we travel third class here, 
 as I often do, we must expect to be sometimes annoyed. 
 In America, however, there is no choice. Except on 
 the long journey lines, which have Fulman cars, there 
 is only one class. A man may have just been re- 
 plenishing his pouch from one of the shops exhibiting 
 the bill, " Fine cut for chewing, fresh up," which I have 
 seen in the windows, and if he choose to sit next a lady 
 with his jaws in constant motion, there is nothing to 
 prevent him. I care not how poor a man is if he be 
 only cleanly. 
 
 In page 42 I speak of huge spittoons and notices ex- 
 hibited requesting gentlemen not to spit on the carpets. 
 Had I not seen it I could hardly have believed the utter 
 want of decency in this respect, good Brussels carpets 
 having no more consideration than a sandbank would 
 have. I heard of a silk mercer in England who said 
 he did not care about his carpets; for the Americans 
 bought largely laces and silks, and paid well for what 
 they bought, so that he could afford new carpets. 
 
 I may here add that in the railway wait'jig-rooms I 
 
' . VISIT TO AMERICA. S5 
 
 saw many persons unceremonioasly drop themselves 
 down in rather too close proximity to some one else, 
 causing the previous occupant to move quickly ; but not 
 a word of apology did I ever hear. On the Hudson 
 Biver steamers persons would move their chairs here, 
 there, or anywhere without ever thinking of asking if 
 they were inconveniencing others, as indeed they often 
 were, by so doing. 
 
 Notwithstanding all this, when anything was left on 
 a seat in a railway carriage, I noticed invariably that 
 that seat was most scrupulously preserved. This is, of 
 course, the rule in England, but, unhappily, it is not a 
 rule without exceptions, though it ought to be ; and I 
 never in America saw persons put bags, or coats, or 
 anything else on to a seat to monopolize it, to make 
 people believe it was taken when it was not. But this 
 you will see selfish men in England do almost every 
 journey you take. 
 
 And another thiig I observed in America. In taking 
 tickets I never saw one man try to push before another. 
 I once, at the station in 42nd Street, saw 80 persons 
 behind each other, Indian file, and not one attempting 
 to move out of his place. I wish I could say the same, 
 or anything like it, for England. But I cannot ; for go 
 to what station you may, you will find rude persons 
 trying to push before you. 
 
 Except amongst the hack- drivers, I did not meet 
 with a single case of incivility, but the very reverse, all 
 the time I was in the States. Take the Broadway, New 
 York, as busy almost as our Gheapside. I stopped a 
 gentleman to ask the way to Ann Street. Two or three 
 others heard the question, and all stopped to answer it. 
 Nay, more than that, one turned back and went some 
 distance to show me. I made the experiment several 
 times, merely for the sake of doing it, and always with 
 the same result. When I was at Woodstock, standing 
 by the ruins of the fire I have mentioned elsewhere, I 
 asked two gentlemen if they had seen the letter-carrier. 
 " Yes," was the reply from one. ** He is somewhere in 
 the town. I would advise you to go to the post-office 
 and wait for him." I then said to my nephew, " Let 
 us go round here, where we have not been, and then 
 work our way to the post-office." We did so, and when 
 
J. OADSBY'8 
 
 we reached the office, there stood the gentleman who 
 had spoken to us, and the letter-carrier was with him. 
 "There, gentlemen," said he, "I have found him for 
 you. Good morning." He had ferreted him out from 
 some part of the town, and taken him to the office. 
 
 At Boston I had to go to the State House (Govern- 
 ment office of the State of Massachusetts) to make an 
 affidavit on behalf of my nephew. The officers were 
 perfect gentlemen; just such as you will meet at our 
 Somerset House, if we except some of those young 
 striplings who are employed at Somerset House to re- 
 ceive your money for stamps, and who will do so, pro- 
 viding they have done reading the paper or are not in 
 conversation with each other. 
 
 When I visited the Union Stock Yard outside Chicago, 
 I went, with my note-book in my hand, to the secretary, 
 and asked him if he would kindly furnish me with a few 
 particulars. He did not speak, but rose from his seat 
 and speedily returned with three thick books, yearly Re- 
 ports. " There," said he ; •' those will tell all you want." 
 
 There was one word which too many of the people, 
 ladies ioOf with whom I met, especially on board the 
 steamer, were fond of using; viz., "beastly." If they 
 spoke of our climate, it was *• beastly ;" if our method of 
 book-keeping, £, s.d.f it was "beastly;" if indeed of any- 
 thing which did not please them, it was " beastly." No 
 doubt the decimal method of accounts is far better than 
 ours; but we can hardly call ours "beastly," when it 
 has stood so well for so many centuries. There is also 
 another word we continually hear, — " elegant." "What 
 an elegant starlight night!" " What an elegant piece of 
 beef 1" " What elegant tomatoes!" " The ship rides ele- 
 gant i" Other words also: "Right off." "It shall be 
 donfl right off." " I'll finish him right off." " When the 
 train stops, we shall have dinner right off;" and so on. 
 I was also surprised to hear what wretched and fanciful 
 English some of the ladies in the saloons of the steamers 
 Bpoke. One lady who sat near to me at the table disap- 
 peared when the wind began to blow. In two or three 
 days she reappeared. " Good morning. Madam," I said 
 to her. " I am glad to see you are better." " thanks 1" 
 she replied. "Yesterday I was dreadful bad, but this 
 moxniug I am quite elegant." 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 67 
 
 The ladies of New York are described by the New York 
 papers as being so extravagantly fond of silks and jewels 
 that the young men are afraid to marry them. ** Those 
 who will make good wives," one paper said, "never 
 make a show of themselves. They are sure to meet 
 with partners without." 
 
 An English lady returning from Australia, vid San 
 Francisco, said "to me, "Have you^seen any American 
 ladies sewing or knitting on board?" " There are two 
 or three there," I replied. " They are all English," she 
 said. '* I have not seen one American lady at work." 
 Now I am not aware that I ever heard of the American 
 ladies, except the New Yorkers, not being fond of work; 
 and the fact will not, I presume, be denied, that these 
 are far more fond of balls and concerts; hence their 
 universally-sickly appearance. I read of one American 
 lady who made a counterpane of silk patchwork ; and 
 she put in it 55,555 pieces. 
 
 One thing I was glad to find, that the nasal pronun- 
 ciation of words, which formerly existed universally, was 
 going fast out. So also is the using of the word * ' guess ;" 
 I "guess " this and that. But have we not our localisms, 
 if I may use the word ? I " wonder," I " think," I "fancy," 
 &c ? Where is the difference ? 
 
 The people have the reputation of being exceedingly 
 hospitable ; and I have no doubt they are in the interior 
 and far West; but I much doubt it as regards the east- 
 em cities. True, I had not much opportunity of trying 
 them, as I was principally with my own relatives ; but 
 in some cases, where I had expected a little more than 
 sham, the parties were, of course, delighted to see me, 
 but were "very sorry" they were not in a position to 
 ask me to their houses; and some who had stayed 
 several nights at my house in England never even 
 acknowledged my message that I had arrived. I fancy 
 I must be hard up indeed ere I could do the like of 
 either of these. Where I was hospitably entertained 
 by strangers, as in the house of Mr. J. at Boston, 
 Mr. C. at Yonkers,the Misses 0. at Tarry Town, Mr. A. 
 at New York, &c., all the parties were born in Eng- 
 land, or Scotland. It is astonishing, however, how 
 warmly all will shake hands with you, and exclaim, 
 "We are glad \'o see you." But they, in my case at 
 
68 J. gadsby's 
 
 any rate, invariably added, **What do you think of our 
 country?" 
 
 We have an adage, ** Necessity is the mother of in- 
 vention." And what wonderful inventions the Americans 
 have produced in agricultural machinery, — mowing, 
 reaping, housing, &c. &c., without which they never could 
 have cultivated the land, hand labour being so scarce. 
 But no sooner is something of the kind invented in 
 America than our Howards and our Bansomes improve 
 upon them, and carry o£f the International medals. It 
 is easier to improve a machine than to invent one. 
 Look, too, at the American sewing machines! How in- 
 valuable they are ! Also a host of other things. At the 
 Exhibition in New York I saw a machine for cutting 
 stone by means of a circular saw; but the teeth of the 
 saw were rose diamonds, — diamonds, I say, which would 
 cut thousands of slices without being worn out. I have 
 by me a piece of a slice, only a shade more than an 
 eighth of an inch thick, and far smoother than the old saw, 
 or cross-cut, can cut it. The diamonds can be removed 
 and reinserted at pleasure. I brought with me from 
 New York a neat library chair, which, without any 
 trouble, opens into a step-ladder. A lady said to me, 
 "You invent nothing; we do it all." *'That is not 
 exactly the case," I said. *' You forget that you are in- 
 debted, as we are, to the French for the electric tele- 
 graph, to us for railroads, for machinery for factories (in 
 which you have made no improvements), for under- 
 ground and deep-sea telegraphs, for steam-ploughs, for 
 cheap postage and book postage, for perforating ma- 
 chines, &c. Still, you go on inventing. "We want your in- 
 ventions, and you want our gold. Where would you be 
 without our gold ? You could not have carried on your 
 war without it ; yet even with it you are compelled to 
 have a paper currency. I wish I could convince you that 
 you are not quite so superlative a people as you imagine 
 yourselves to be. To compete with your rivers there are 
 the Nile, the Danube, the Ehone, and the Elbe; with 
 your Bocky Mountains there are the Alps, the Pyren- 
 uees, the Apennines, the Himalayas ; with your cities, 
 Paris, &c.; with your churches, those of France, Spain, 
 and Italy; with your men, the stalwart Scotch and the 
 graceful Bedouins; with your womeni those of Europe 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA, 
 
 in general; with your railroads, those of England; with 
 your commerce, ditto ; with your productiveness, Egypt, 
 Turkey, France, and Spain." 
 
 As is too much the case in England, gambling is the 
 order of the day amongst the Americans. **I'll bet 
 this," and " I'll bet that," was in almost every conversa- 
 tion. On board the " Scotia" there were no less than 
 twelve parties playing at cards just by my seat. There 
 was one game called " poker," in which money changed 
 hands much faster than I ever saw it in my card-playing 
 days. " I'll go in for a pound on my cards." •* I'll do 
 the same." The cards are shown and the money passes 
 as quickly as I have written the fact. Then there was 
 one part of the ship which was called '' Tattersall's!" 
 Hither the betters, with their betting-books, resorted. 
 " I'll bet 2 pounds to 1 that the ship's run will be above 
 820, or I'll bet even that it will be above 325." That is, 
 that from noon on the previous day to noon on the cur- 
 rent day the steamer will have run above 325 knots, 
 being about 877 English miles. And so they go on. I 
 pass another group. "Will you go in this pool. Sir ?" 
 "What is it?" "Two shillings each. We draw, and 
 he that draws the last figure of the ship's run takes the 
 pool." "No thank you. I finished with that sort of work 
 above 40 years ago. I don't want to take anybody else's 
 money, and I don't want anybody to take mine. It is wrong 
 in principle." "Wrong! There can be no cheating." 
 "Perhaps not; but it is wrong altogether." All was 
 done in English money, which abounded amongst them. 
 how these things carried my mind back to my earlier 
 days I Not that I was in the habit of attending races ; 
 for I certainly never attended more than two in my life ; 
 and then I thought we were all fools together, — so many 
 thousands just to see some horses run. But betting on 
 the Manchester races I too often did, especially in sweep- 
 stakes ; and card-playing was my element. When I re- 
 flected upon this, how blessedly I was able to trace "all 
 the way" that the Lord had led me since that time! 
 The whole seemed to carry me out of myself, as I paced 
 the deck, especially when I remembered his manifested 
 loving-kindness to me after my backsliding ; and I was 
 enabled over and over again to exclaim, "Bless the Lord, 
 my soal| and all that is within me, bless his holy 
 
J. oadsby's 
 
 name; who pardoneth all thy iniquities, and crowneth 
 thy life with tender mercies." It is true I have no re- 
 collection of the time when I could thus or otherwise 
 transgress without twangs of conscience and sometimes 
 most troublesome convictions. Nor do I think these con- 
 victions were merely natural; for, had they been, they 
 would have worn off. I believe the Holy Spirit was at 
 work in me from my very boyhood ; so that I cannot 
 point to any particular time when my convictions 
 began. But I well remember the time when I was 
 compelled to give all up ; and this was after an attack 
 of influenza and fever in 1832, though I had already 
 given up my companions. And I still better, if possible, 
 remember when I first experienced forgiveness, which 
 was in November, 1833, as stated in my little work on 
 " Slavery and Captivity." I am firmly of opinion that 
 many have been so gradually led to feel their state as 
 sinners that they cannot point to any particular begin- 
 ning ; but I can hardly see how any can be made to 
 feel the pardon of their sins, — be set at liberty from a 
 state of bondage, without knowing when. 
 
 As on board the steamer, so in the railway carriages, 
 betting was the order of the day. First, the -betting 
 would be that Greeley would not get in; then, that such 
 and such a State would have the majority in his favour; 
 then, that the majority of votes in the carriage was for 
 him, and so on. Any kind of bet would do, so long as 
 they could get a bet. 
 
 Unhappily, we hear quite as much bad language in 
 America as we do in England. Just as I was retiring to 
 rest on my way to Chicago, a gentleman who was in the 
 opposite ** section" called to me, "Stranger, I want you 
 to come and have some cognac with me right off." I 
 replied that I must decline, as it would make my head 
 ache. "Well, now," he said, "I shall feel right offended 
 if you don't come." I went immediately, and said, "I'll 
 have a chat with you ; but you must excuse me taking 
 any cognac." I found he had a large estate on the North- 
 Western line, beyond Woodstock, and grew immense] 
 quantities of Indian corn. He urged me to go with him>| 
 for a few days, and he would show me "right off" 
 expanse of corn that I should not otherwise have 
 ohanoe of seeing, — an immeasurable prairie oi oonu 
 
VT"TT TO AMERICA. Tl 
 
 But, of course, I was compelled to decline. We were 
 afterwards joined by two other Americans, and an Eng- 
 lishman. The two Americans had been in England, and, 
 unless fearfully hypocritical, belonged to my first class. 
 We continued talking about the agriculture, manufac- 
 tures, &c., of the country, until the ladies sent Mr. 
 Darkie to say we were keeping them awake. I instantly 
 retired, and was glad of the excuse for doing so. 
 
 Well, so far so good. The next morning I saw the 
 first-named gentleman on the platform, going by the 
 same train as the one by which we were going. I went 
 up to speak to him, when I found he was in angry 
 debate with a very stout, fresh-looking countryman. 
 The first words I heard were from my fellow-traveller: 
 "You say you'll bet me two to one that Greeley won't 
 
 get in. Two what to one, you ? I know 
 
 what you are, you 1 You mean two cents, to 
 
 one. Bay two hundred dollars to one hundred, and I'll 
 
 take you, you . I'll squeeze your nose until 
 
 the blood runs down my arm, you I" I in- 
 stantly returned to my seat in the carriage, saying to 
 myself, "Dear me I Is this the gentleman yf'\ihvihom.l 
 was sitting so long last night?" By and by, he came 
 into the same carriage and gave us a repetition of his 
 abominable language. I subsequently learnt that he was 
 the mayor of the town in which he lived, a few miles 
 beyond Woodstock. I mentioned the circumstance to 
 several, but invariably had the same reply: **They 
 are very hard-mouthed in the West." Now all who were 
 in the carriage had to hear this; for there was no modu- 
 lation of voice. 
 
 And I will mention another case. I was in a railway 
 carriage, near Chicago, when one man called out, ** Who 
 talks Greeley?" "I do!" emphatically replied another. 
 
 "Then you're a fool! " And off they went, trying 
 
 which could outdo the other in bawling and in using 
 most profane language. I said to a gentleman who sat 
 next to me: "This is one of the drawbacks to your 
 cars. Every man, woman, and child has had to listen 
 to that abominable co^versation. Such a thing would 
 not be tolerated in England in a railway car for five 
 minutes." "01" he coolly replied. **We should not 
 notice it." 
 
fl J. gadsby's 
 
 It must, of course, be understood that the cases I 
 have mentioned are only a sample of many similar 
 ones. 
 
 American ladies are far more free in conversation 
 than London ladies ; but this does not prove them to be 
 less moral. Assuredly not; nor are they. They are 
 more like Lancashire and Yorkshire ladies, who, as a 
 rule, are far more conversational than London ladies 
 are. Many of the ladies in our Midland Counties are 
 positively phidish, as if it would be a crime to talk to 
 strangers ; but such is not the case in America. I have 
 conversed with American ladies on the Continent with a 
 perfect freedom, when the ladies of my own country 
 would have thought I had some evil design if I had 
 attempted to talk to them in like manner. But all 
 this arises from the difference in their bringing up. 
 Girls in America soon find themselves independent of 
 their mothers, and fathers too ; but I do not think this 
 increases their domestic value any more than does the 
 stiffness which is patent in too many of our ladies' 
 boarding schools. 
 
 American girls will not be domestic servants. House- 
 hold duties have to be done by darkies, Germans, and 
 Irish. Last winter, there was said to be great distress 
 in Boston, — << thousands of girls out of employment, 
 owing to the frost," and meetings were held to make 
 provision for them. "Yet why is it," asked a Boston 
 paper, ^'that in the midst of all their hardships, we 
 cannot find girls willing to do housework? They can 
 have warm and comfortable homes, good board and ex- 
 cellent wages ; but they will not improve the opportuni- 
 ties. Hundreds of families in this immediate vicinity 
 are desirous to obtain good 'help,' but cannot do it; 
 and even those who present themselves as applicants 
 must dictate theu' situation. Within a few days we 
 have heard able-bodied, healthy girls, out of employ- 
 ment, say, < I don't do any washing,' < I don't cook,' < I 
 never touch a furnace,' *I don't want to live where 
 there are children,' &c. &c.; and yet they demand the 
 highest wages 1 It is also next to impossible to find a 
 competent woman who will go out to sew by the day, or 
 do any other kind of manual labour." 
 
 And there is the same mistaken independence with 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. VB 
 
 the men. Do we see a gentleman's coachman ? He is 
 certainly not an American. Do we see a man in livery? 
 Be assured he is a foreigner. Do we see on a railway 
 platform or accompanying a tram a man in dirty clothes 
 and having on a dirty shirt ? He is one of the railway 
 porters or other officials, and is an American^ He will 
 not wear a badge of any kind. That would he beneath 
 him; such is his mistaken independence. On the Penn- 
 sylvania line, however, or the New York and Boston 
 Express line, I forget which, I saw the officers properly 
 and neatly distinguished from others, as in England. 
 
 In hotel accommodation, ^e are as much behind the 
 Americans as they are behind us in railways. But our 
 habits are different. Hotels, except one here and there, 
 would not answer in England on the American plan. 
 Gentlemen in England dine more at home than the 
 Americans do; so thai a table cth6te is comparatively 
 rare with us. 
 
 I only saw one beggar all the time I was out; and that 
 was an Irishwoman in New York. 
 
 Some may be disposed to think I have spoken rather 
 freely about the Americans, seeing I was so short a time 
 in the country, and that, consequently, my range of ob- 
 servation must have been exceedingly limited. But my 
 remarks are not founded merely upon what I saw when 
 in the country, but upon observations made when meet- 
 ing with Americans abroad. The classes are as dis- 
 tinctly marked when travelling as when the people are 
 at home. 
 
 KELIGION. ■■■■*' 
 
 Until very recently, the Baptists in the United States 
 were the most numerous body ; and even now, I believe, 
 they stand second. During the year 1871, they increased 
 by 69,000. Now, are these Baptists what we call in 
 England Strict Baptists, or are they General Baptists ? 
 By Strict Baptists, I mean not only Close Communion 
 Baptists, but those who believe in a definite atonement; 
 that Christ's atonement was for a people chosen in 
 Christ before the foundation of the world (Eph. i. 4, 6), 
 an^ that not one for whom Christ died can ever possi- 
 bly perish (Jno. x. 15, 28), but that all, being predes- 
 tinated, shall assuredly be called, justified, and glorified 
 (Bom, Tiii. 80) ; so that, if Christ died for the whole 
 
 o 
 
74 J. gadsuy's 
 
 human race, the whole human race shall assuredly be 
 saved; that all the elect shall, under the operation of 
 the Holy Spirit, have the law in its spirituality applied 
 to their consciences and be made to feel how greatly, in 
 thought, word, and deed, they have broken that law; so 
 that they have no hope of salvation by the works of the 
 law, but that they must be utterly lost, imless saved by 
 Christ, of his own sovereign will, irrespective of any- . 
 thing they can do to merit salvation; that all who were 
 chosen by the Father and redeemed by the Son, and no 
 others, shall, at the time appointed in eternity, certainly 
 be in their hearts thus convinced of sin by the Holy 
 Spirit, and brought in guilty before God; that man's 
 free will leadb him to evil, only evil, and that continually; 
 so that if there be any good in him, as to matters of sal- 
 vation, that good has been implanted by the Holy Spirit, 
 not according to the man's free will, but of God's infinite 
 mercy. (Kom. ix. 10.) The Strict Baptists also believe 
 that the Holy Scriptures are of divine inspiration ; that 
 there are Three Persons in One undivided Jehovah; that 
 God's love is everlasting and unchangeable ; that Adam, 
 by his fall, ruined all his posterity ; that Christ is the 
 Eternal Son of the Eternal Father; that the justifica- 
 tion of the elect is by the righteousness of Christ alone; 
 that faith is the gift of God, and that to exhort men 
 dead in sin to believe is to exhort them to do that 
 which requires the absolute almighty power of the Spirit 
 in the heart ; that there will be a resurrection of the 
 body, both of the just and the unjust; that the baptism 
 of infants is unscriptural, and that what is called bap- 
 tismal regeneration is blasphemous ; that the grace of 
 God teaches a man to deny ungodliness and to walk 
 soberly, &c.; that the invitations of the gospel are 
 specially for those who have been made to feel their 
 need of salvation ; that those who die out of Christ shall 
 be turned into hell, the fire of which shall never be 
 quenched, while the elect shall spend an eternity of hap- 
 piness with their God and Saviour. 
 
 In England there are many who firmly believe in all 
 these doctrines who are not Baptists, and there are 
 many Baptists who do not believe in them, and some, 
 too, who call themselves Particular Baptists; but puch 
 pervert the term. I respect every mm who is sincere in 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 75 
 
 his views, let them he what they may, well knowing that 
 " the greatest bigots are those who have no charity for 
 the bigotry of others," and that I have nothing good 
 that I have not received ; but I do not respect the man 
 who professes one thing and acts another. 
 
 Some time ago our Master of the Bolls gave judgment 
 that Particular Baptists might be Open Communionists ; 
 but a more ignorant judgment, I believe, was never 
 given. No judge I ever heard of had more of his deci- 
 sions upset by the higher Courts than had the Master of 
 the Bolls; and I firmly believe his judgment in this case 
 would have been shown to be worthless had it been 
 carried before the Lords Justices. 
 
 As an individual, I trust I feel willing to lend a help- 
 ing hand to all ; but church order is a different matter. 
 When friends visit me, as many do, I expect they will 
 conform to the rules of my house ; otherwise there would 
 be nothing but confusion. 
 
 Well, now, are there any in America who believe in 
 the doctrines I have been briefly describing ? Amongst 
 the Baptists I believe there are ; but I never heard of 
 any amongst the Congregationalists. As far as my 
 observation and inquiries go, even amongst the Baptists, 
 it is only like a grain of wheat in a bushel of chaff. 
 They have all gone astray ; they have altogether for- 
 saken the religion of their forefathers. Such men as 
 were expelled from our shores and sought refuge on the 
 other side of the Atlantic, in the days of the infamous 
 Charles II., are now nowhere to be found, if we except 
 a very small remnant. In vain do the people point to 
 the spot, — •* There's where the Pilgrim Fathers landed ;" 
 for pilgrim fathers no longer exist. The worst religion 
 of the modem Calvinists in England is the best of which 
 most Americans can boast. Except amongst the Wes- 
 leyans and a few Baptists and Episcopalians, the reli- 
 gion of the people consists of neither law nor gospel. 
 Such a thing as that a man is a sinner, and deserves 
 the wrath of God, is rarely to be heard. The parsons 
 are well paid, better paid than those of any other people 
 in the world; but their pay would soon be nil if they 
 ventured to tell the people real gospel truths. Their 
 cry must be ** Peace," though there is no peace. As my 
 friend Mr. C. said in a letter, ** There must be nothing 
 
^ J. oadhby'h 
 
 said to disturb the peace of the deluded. The people 
 laugh at danger." 
 
 Well, thanks be to God, there are exceptions. I heard 
 two gospel sermons in a largo room (Mr. Axford's), or 
 rather a sermon and a half, for I was compelled, in the 
 middle of one sermon, to leave the room because of the 
 extreme heat. One was by Mr. Witt, from England, and 
 the other by a Mr. Bicknell, aged 75, from Oneida, per- 
 haps 400 miles from New York city. This good man 
 was bom in England, but had lived many years in 
 America. He had, with his own hands, cleared 200 
 acres of woodland, — a Herculean task, and ip, now com- 
 fortably off. I also heard an Irishman in the English 
 church at Montreal, to which I have refen-ed in a pre- 
 vious page ; and a good gospel sermon it was. His text 
 was, *• My times are in thy hand." ** These," said he, 
 " are not the words of a fatalist, though a fatalist may 
 use them ; but it would be in a very different way to that 
 in which the psalmist used them. The Mahometans 
 say their times are in God's hands. But what do they 
 mean ? If they walk along a precipice, and fall, though 
 they were aware of the great danger, they say God has 
 done it. But G^ 1 tempts no man to do wrong. Pre- 
 sumption is a si u to be guarded against. It requires the 
 greatest faith the Holy Spirit can give to enable a man 
 rightly to use the words of my text ; and when he can 
 do so, it is in deep humility and trust in God. There 
 may be times when it is hard indeed for a man to use 
 the words. When the dearest object of our life is about 
 closing his or her eyes in death, how hard to feel that 
 our times are in God's hands. But even then the Holy 
 Spirit can enable us to do it, and to be reconciled to his 
 will." O how this brought to my mind my irreparable 
 loss only a few months before 1 And yet how consoling 
 were the remarks to me ; for the blessed Spirit had en- 
 abled me to use the words of the text, and to be recon- 
 ciled to his will. > « • ^ 
 
 I must not, however, enlarge here. 
 
 There are in America the Old School Baptists and 
 the Eegular Baptists, who all, I believe, profess the doc- 
 trines 1 have enumerated; and that some of them fully I 
 believe in them I am certain, for I have read the writings 
 of Mme, and have Qonyersed witu others. Had I \)e9n\ 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 77 
 
 able to stay in the country another month, I Bhould cer- 
 tainly have visited them; and I must say that those of 
 them with whom I have conversed bear the stamp of 
 genuineness ; — of course I mean as to my own views, 
 leaving everybody to judge for himself. There is a 
 Begular or Old School Baptist chapel in New York, and 
 I should have visited it, but was told the people were 
 without a minister. I was assured, however, that before 
 the civil war not a person was allowed to join the 
 Old School Baptists, unless he avowed himself in favour 
 of negro slavery. If so, I have no sympathy with them. 
 I have been informed also tliat they, like the Bomanists 
 and our Episcopal church, claim "a regular line of suc- 
 cession from the apostles, that they are the only true 
 church upon earth, and that tliey deny the saoredness 
 of the Lord's day." I cannot, however, credit these 
 things, failing greater proof than simple letters. I do 
 know that they repudiate Sunday schools; and herein 
 I greatly differ from them. If we reject Sunday schools 
 because they are abused, we may also reject the preach- 
 ing of the gospel ; for is not that abused ? And if, as one 
 letter I have received says, the editor of the Old School 
 Baptist organ "opposes the doctrine of Three Persons 
 in the Godhead," I assuredly would not read another 
 number of that periodical. 
 
 From these Old School and Begular Baptists I am 
 told there are frequent departures ; and there can be no 
 difficulty in believing this, especially if what was stated 
 in the "Nonconformist" some time ago be true, viz., 
 that there are amongst the "Begular Baptists, 10,818 
 ministers, and 1 ,410,493 members." How many of these 
 would nov; come imder the original term? Have not 
 nearly all of them gone astray ? And is it not the same 
 in England ? Originally the Baptists were firm in their 
 belief of the discriminating truths of the gospel; but 
 where are many of them now ? I have great reason to 
 be thankful that, in the hands of God, I was the means, 
 some time ago, of stopping the introduction of error, — 
 just a little bit at first, into one of the churches in Lon- 
 don, which, up to that time, had stood high as a leader 
 in the defence of truth, and which still has it in its 
 power to replace itself. But when we find one of that 
 ehtiroh's leaders openly avowing his approyal of the 
 
T0 J. oadsby's 
 
 ministry of the man who, when I was the means of 
 stopping him, was endeavouriog to get in "the thin 
 edge of the wedge" of Fullerism and Baxterianism, who 
 not only called some of our most eminent deceased 
 ministers Antinomians, hut who, if I am correctly in- 
 formed, consigned even Mr. Philpot to the bottomless 
 pit, styling some of his writings "filthy lies," or some- 
 thing very much worse ; I say, when we find one of that 
 church's leaders openly avowing his approval of the 
 ministry of such a man; another leader, periodically 
 preaching with him, and recommending him as a supply 
 in the country when he no longer dared to invite him to 
 supply the church referred to ; and both aiding him in 
 other ways ; and when numbers of the members, without 
 discernment, have been misled by their leaders ; it will 
 be tolerably manifest that such leaders require to be 
 closely watched, not only for the sake of the poor sheep 
 who have been misled, but also for the sake of those 
 who saw the tares that Satan was sowing amongst them. 
 It is quite true that the other leaders by no means 
 countenance such a ministry; but, 
 
 " One sickly sheop will taint the flock. 
 And poison all the rest." 
 
 May the Lord, of his infinite mercy, avert it ! 
 
 Speaking of one place, Mr. Huntington, in a letter in 
 "Lamentations of Satan," Part II., says: "I know of 
 no parcel of land in God's husbandry, I know of no 
 little hill in the territory of Zion, that is nearer to my 
 heart, and who have appeared more steadfast in my 
 doctrine, more affectionate to me, or more in union 
 among themselves, than the little select band at Laken- 
 heath. * * * I believe it is now 16 years since I first 
 spoke among you, and from that time to this you have been 
 no cause of sorrow or of grief to me, nor have you given 
 me the least occasion of complaint; so that you are to 
 me a orown of rejoicing, as the Philippians were to our 
 great and unparalleled apostle. * * * Better men have 
 tendered their services to you, and professors have ten- 
 dered their company among you ; but no breach or in- 
 road have they made as yet. You look forth as the 
 morning, * fair as the morn, clear as the sun, and ter- 
 rible fts an army with banners T " 01 What would the 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. TV 
 
 dear man say if he knew that the successors of those 
 people, aided by one of the leaders referred to, now 
 periodically have a man to preach for them who had 
 designated him as an Antinomian, called his religion 
 " one-sided," and some parts of it "bad," and was sow- 
 ing the seeds of Baxterianism ? Would he say they are 
 now '• the crown of his rejoicing?" But thus it is that 
 places and people degenerate, until truth utterly falls in 
 the streets. The man who is fearless enough to expose 
 these things is, as Huntington himself was, called " a 
 troubler in Israel." I wish there were more such trou- 
 blers, and more discernment in the churches, if the 
 Lord's will, to perceive the approach of danger. The 
 more a man preaches of truth, while he mixes error 
 with it, or adds error to it, the more dangerous that man 
 must obviously be. He administers sugared poison. 
 It was on this ground that my dear father said of a 
 late minister that he was one of the greatest enemies 
 the church of God ever had. And if we want proof of 
 the truth of the remark, we have only to see how the 
 Baptists degenerated from Fuller's time. Our English 
 law says **ihe receiver of stolen goods is as bad as the 
 thief;" and in my opinion those who can countenanoe 
 such men are as culpable as the men themselves. 
 
 I can only say if the leaders referred to will assure the 
 people that in future they will, with God's help, exclude 
 from their pulpit every man who preaches doctrines in 
 any way contrary to the Articles in the Trust Deed of the 
 chapel, I will, with tears of gratitude, cheerfully forgive 
 them all the wrong they have done me, whether they 
 will or will not forgive me for my outspokenness. Let 
 them do as they may, the day will come when some 
 who think hardly of me now will acknowledge I did the 
 church good service. 
 
 But I proceed. 
 
 In the morning of Sept. 1st, at Hamilton, Canada, I 
 went to the chapel of the coloured Baptists; i.e., the 
 blacks, or " darkies." The building is their own free- 
 hold, and is commodious and comfortable, though not 
 cushioned, and decorated, and carpeted throughout, as 
 aisles and pews alike are in both churches and chapels 
 universally in Canada and the United States. Neither 
 had they any "church parlour;" t.e., a large room for 
 
W9 J« OADSBY S 
 
 cburoh meetings, not only carpeted and cushioned, but 
 also sofaed and couched^ as the other "places of wor- 
 ship " have most luxuriously. Plain walls, floors, and 
 seats were all that the darkies could boast of. 
 
 I was disappointed to find that as it was the first Sun- 
 day in the month there was to be no morning preaching, 
 but a "covenant meeting." When I entered, several 
 Sunday scholars were singing on the closing of the 
 school, and I went to speak to the minister. He was one 
 of the darkest men I ever saw. He said his name was 
 Mitchell, and that he was from Charleston ; and I found 
 be was a sensible sinner. There was no objection to our 
 staying, he said, as it was not exclusively a church meet- 
 ing. At the commencement of the service he gave out 
 a hymn with which I was not acquainted, and then en- 
 gaged in prayer. In his prayer he said, "Many, equally 
 deserving of thy mercy as we, and perhaps far better 
 livers, whose walk has been more consistent, have, since 
 our last meeting, passed into an awful eternity, while we 
 are left on praying ground." "Ah!" I said to myself, 
 " bow true that lo I Here I must number myself amongst 
 the poor blacks!" The prayer was short, hvX feeling* 
 Cowper's universal hymn: 
 
 "God moves in a mysterious way," 
 
 was then sung. Two of the female voices were most 
 sweet. Verse 8 was altered thus : 
 
 " Ye fearful souUt fresh courage take." 
 
 The tears gushed into my eyes. "How many times," 
 I said to myself, "have I felt myself to be a fearing «ott/r 
 when I oould not feel myself a saints as the hymn has it." 
 A poor lame man then got up, and said, amongst other 
 things, "I have been sorely afflicted since our last cove- 
 nant meeting, and never thought to be here again. But 
 God has proved himself to be most gracious, long-suffer- 
 ing, and plenteous in goodness and mercy. I was read- 
 ing Paul's words, <I have fought the fight,' &c.; and I 
 felt that, by Qod's grace, I had been able to fight a good 
 fight, and that I was now ready to be offered up. Then 
 I thought of Stephen being stoned ; and he said he saw 
 Jesus ; and that made me feel mighty strong, as I oould 
 see Jesus as my Saviour. Then I thought of Lazarus 
 and his sisters ; how strong Martha's faith was : * Lord» if 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. II 
 
 thon liadflt been hero, my brothrr had not died;' and I 
 felt as if I was no person at all in the world." (His 
 meaning evidently was that he hardly knew whether or 
 not he was in the body, or that his faith was nothing 
 compared to Martha's.) 
 
 Another man got up, and said, " I have no good at 
 all to tell you. I wish I had. Trials and tribulations 
 abound; but I expect to get to heaven no other way; 
 and when these have abounded I have found grace to 
 sustain me. About 10 years ago I know that Jesus 
 Christ had redeemed my soul. It was no dream. I was 
 as much awake thon as now. 8inoo then, what ups 
 and downs I have had! And I feel now that if the Lord 
 should call me ho would tako mo ; .i himself. All my 
 works avail nothing; but why should 1 say that? I have 
 not done nothing good." 
 
 A woman of gigantic size then rose ; but I could not 
 catch what she said. 
 
 Then another woman stood up ; but nearly all I could 
 catch of what she said was, "0, how I have striven to 
 make my calling and election sure!" "Ah, my dear 
 woman,"! said to myself, "and so have I, many a time." 
 That is, I had striven hard to realize my calling and 
 election; and this I have no doubt the good woman 
 meant; for, i^ her simplicity, she added, "But all made 
 nothing." 
 
 Then a man rose and said, "We como together once 
 a month to speak of the goodness and faithfulness and 
 love of God ; and I hope wo speak from our hearts. It 
 is all up-hill work. Without Christ wo can do nothing; 
 with him everything. He is slow to anger, swift to mercy. 
 We were all born in sin and shapen in iniquity, — every 
 one of us; and if we are born of God, then our sins are 
 for ever put away and we are safe. Christ never lost one 
 of his children. Only to think that the great God is 
 looking down in mercy upon such poor sinful creatures 
 as us! that the Spirit would open the eyes of the 
 blind, and that much good might be done this day in 
 the name of the lioly child Jesus!" 
 
 No other person rising, the minister said, "I seem to 
 have nothing to say. I fool like taking my hat and 
 going out." (I thought that was saying a great deal, — 
 most expressive.) Ho continued, "We are here to tell 
 
 P2 
 
is J. oadsby'b 
 
 of God's dealings with our souls. We are! And if he 
 has manifested himself to us as he does not to the 
 world, we should be able to show to the world what 
 that has done for us. We may get up and talk to sin- 
 ners ; but what use would that be if in the world we 
 were like them?" (Here he became a little animated.) 
 " I say our light should so shine before men that they may 
 see our good works ; otherwise we ought to come here 
 with lockjaws.'' (That is, not talk about our experience 
 if our works do not correspond.) "If we go about talk- 
 ing about everybody's business, how about our own 
 hearts? There is a spiritual death. The church is off, — 
 clean down. * * * If you parents do not bring your 
 children with you, but let them run here and there, what 
 sort of Christianity is that?" (Of course I have only 
 given extracts.) 
 
 The minister then said that brother Smith had an 
 announcement to make. Mr. 8. then said, "I must give 
 you a hint. We are a little behind. I only give you a 
 hint." Another got up, and said, "I don't like hints; 
 and some of you won't take them. So I'll give you a 
 kick. We are ten dollars behind for gas ; and the gas- 
 man wants his money. One has given a dollar, and 
 others some more; and we want you to make it up." I 
 hope the money was realized. 
 
 The room is very airy and convenient. There were 
 only about 80 present, old and young. The minister 
 told me they usually had about 50. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to the Baptist Sunday school. 
 I never, in any place in my life, experienced such cold- 
 ness &nd/orbiddingness as I did here, both in minister 
 and superintendents. However, that mattered not ; for 
 I soon found it was not the place for me. The superin- 
 tendent gave out that hymn : 
 
 " Jesus loves mo ! This I know ; 
 For the Bible tells mo so ; 
 Ho will wash away my sin ; 
 Lot his little child come in." 
 
 There was also this verse in a hymn : 
 
 " Cast your cares on Jesus I 
 All your burdens he will bear. 
 He invites you, he entreats you; 
 Cast on him your every care." 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 83 
 
 **It'8 time for me to be off," I said to myself. I do not 
 wonder at the Old School Baptists rejecting Sunday 
 schools altogether, if such things are to be taught the 
 scholars; but, as I have already said, because some 
 make a bad use of a good institution, that is no reason 
 why such institution should be discarded altogether. 
 
 So off I went to the Congregationalist Sunday School. 
 I was recognized by two gentlemen who knew me in 
 England. They described the minister as a stiff, 
 starched-up Scotchman. I therefore knew it would be 
 useless to go and hear him in the evening, as I had 
 already made up my mind would be the case if I went 
 to hear Mr. R., the Baptist; &o I did not attempt it. 
 
 I may here mention that Mr. Hugh Stowell Brown, 
 of Liverpool, was in Canada at the time, and was ex- 
 pected at the above Baptist chapel on the following 
 Sunday; and I am sure, though Mr. B. is far more 
 general in his views than I am, he would teach them a 
 different doctrine to that which they were teaching the 
 children. He does not appear to have given much 
 satisfaction during his visit. As to open communion, 
 ho said he was once for it, but, after much reflection 
 and prayer, he saw the mistake. •* Where strict com- 
 munion is adhered to," ho said, ** there is prosperity." 
 
 What was I to do in the evening ? I could not see to 
 road my small-print Bible by gaslight ; I could not re- 
 concile myself to keeping still, as I should go to sleep ; 
 so I said to my nephew, *• We will go to the first chapel 
 we come to." And this happened to be the Wesleyan 
 Centenary one. It is a fine building, and will seat, 
 perhaps, 2,000 people. There could not have been less 
 than 1,500 present; and such a display of fashion I 
 never saw in any place of worship before. At least 
 eleven out of every twelve were females ; my nephew 
 said fourteen out of fifteen; and as they had all on 
 light, hot-summer bonnets and dresses, and as there 
 were hundreds of fans waving, the scene was most 
 gay. Yet I know not how it could be much other- 
 wise; for it was hot, so hot that I had to use a fan, 
 not only there but in the other chapels I went to. Both 
 minister and people lacked that fire, whether fleshly or 
 not, which we usually see amongst the Wesleyans in 
 England ; but he told the people what it was their duty 
 
84 J. oadsby's 
 
 to do, and what wonld be the consequence if they did 
 not do it. 
 
 Just BO also was it at Dr. A.'s, in New Yorl, the 
 most popular and flowery Baptist preacher in that city, 
 whom I heard on a subsequent occasion. '* I want you 
 to resolve before you leave this place," said he, " that 
 you will be better Christians to-morrow than you are 
 to-day. Lay your plans to visit and to take a class in 
 the Sunday school, and you will walk worthy of your 
 profession. Every argel that wafts us home will rejoice 
 that we laboured for God." And his whole discourse 
 was of a like import. He had been away for two months, 
 and must have spent a great part of that time in pre- 
 paring a flowery prayer ; and, in order that he might 
 give it to the peoi/.o in the most flowery style, and 
 without any danger of calling a rose a thorn, he read it. 
 **Kead his prayer?" Yes, for the first and only time in 
 my life I heard a Dissenter read his prayer. I was told 
 his salary is 4,000 dollars a year, and I dare say it is, 
 for there were' any quantity of carriages outside. Alas 
 for the Baptists in America, when such stuff passes for 
 religion amongst them ! 
 
 I may add that when reading the psalm, the congrega- 
 tion responded, — not verse for verse, but point by point 
 only. Minister: ** Praise ye the Lord." Congregation: 
 "Blessed is the man that feareth the Lord." Minister: 
 "That delighteth greatly in his commandments." And 
 so on. 
 
 "You have done nothing towards your salvation until 
 you have believed," said one of the Presbyterian minis- 
 ters I heard. "Ho, everyone that thirsteth," said ano- 
 ther. "This means every one of you present, as much 
 as if it had said every one who has a body. You all 
 thirst for something. Some thirst for gold. Come to 
 Christ for it. Some thirst for popularity. Come to 
 Christ for it." And so on. Not a word was said through- 
 out the whole discourse about thirsting for God, the liv- 
 ing God ; for the pardon of sins ; for peace through the 
 peace-speaking blood of Jesus Christ. Indeed, ho must 
 have supposed there were no sinners before him, but that 
 all were perfect saints, and in the full assurance of poape. 
 And such is Presbyterianism in America! 
 
 I copy the following from a Baptist paper; " There \$ 
 
VISIT TO AMEBIC A. 8S 
 
 an old proverb of a rusty shield that prayed: *0 sun, 
 illumine me;' but the suu replied, 'First polish your- 
 self.' The Christian who expects to be anything honour- 
 able, strong, and happy, must be in such a condition 
 that the influences from God can reach him." mighty 
 man 1 Wonderful man ! The work is yours ! The Holy 
 Spirit cannot reach you unless you polish yourself! Poor 
 America ! 
 
 Now what is the form of worship? It must be under- 
 stood that what I say of one I say of all, with the ex- 
 ceptions already given. Congregationalists, Baptists, 
 Wesleyans, Presbyterians, are all the same. The first 
 chapel — I beg pardon, I mean church, for they are all 
 churches in America, just as is fast becoming the case 
 in England, — nothing bo common as a Baptist or Wcs- 
 loyan chapel or meetiug-houso, — the first church I went 
 into was a Baptist. It cost 40,000 dollars, and was pre- 
 sented to the people by two gentlemen. The minister 
 appears on the platform tJirough a side door. There are 
 no pulpits. The desk is ornamented with vases of 
 flowers. The minister seats himself on an easy reclining 
 chair. Up starts a lady in the choir, and sings a solo. 
 Another joins and we have a duet ; then a trio, and then 
 a chorus. Next the minister gives out a hymn. In this 
 case it was : 
 
 "Approach, my Boul, the mcrcy-soat!" 
 
 The aforesaid lady sings the hymn right througli, as a 
 solo. Her voice was most melodious. I suspected that 
 she was hired from the tlieatre ; and I felt my very heart 
 sink when she came to the words : 
 
 " Thou callost burdcn'd souls to thcc ; • ' 
 
 And such, O Lord, am I." 
 
 I subsequently learnt that my suspicions wore well 
 founded. The respective choirs are all hired profes- 
 sionals. What awful mockery ! The minister reads a 
 chapter and then prays. Then another hymn, which is 
 sung by the whole choir, but not by the congregation. 
 Then follows the sermon, and then another hymn ; and 
 in this the congregation join. The benediction follows ; 
 and oflf the people go almost as if tiio place were on fire ; 
 in this case following the sad example of too many in 
 England. 
 
80 
 
 J. OADSBY 8 
 
 ' I did not hear the celebrated Ward Beechcr, simply 
 because I could not; he was not at home. I like to hear 
 for myself, and judge for myself. The seats in this 
 gentleman's chapel are every year let by auction to the 
 highest bidders, and realize, I believe, about £5,000 
 sterling. As much as 900 dollars is given, for one 
 year only, for one pew, next to the family of the minis- 
 ter. Some, when building a chapel, raise a large por- 
 tion of the money by selling the pews in perpetuity, 
 freehold. How wise the children of this world are I 
 
 In New Hampshire, I was told, there are some who 
 call then olves Christ-i&n Baptists. These are ultra- 
 Galvinists, yet the lowest of Unitarians. 
 
 There had been a meeting of ministers at Boston just 
 before I was there, to consider the desirableness of 
 having stage representations in the chapels, to prevent 
 the young from going to theatres! And most of the 
 ministers present, I was told, advocated it. Secular con- 
 certs are common enough oven in the Baptist churches ; 
 but this is also the case in England. 
 
 The Sunday is kept in a far better way in the States 
 and Canada than it is in London. I was sorry, how- 
 ever, to find, when going to New York by rail from 
 Yonkers on the Sunday that boys selling newspapers 
 were allowed to tr." vel with the trains. But wo English 
 have no stones to throw here. 
 
 . AGRICULTUKE, COMMERCE, FINANCE. 
 
 The resources of America are incalculably great. The 
 people could, if they pleased, close their ports against 
 every nation in the world, and, if we except the luxuries 
 of the East and West Indies, produce within themselves 
 everything they could possibly need. There are the 
 coal and u*on fields of Pennsylvania, the gold of Cali- 
 fornia, the grazing lands of the Central States, the cotton 
 of the South, the com of the West, and the manufac- 
 tories of the East and North. Beyond all question, it 
 there were sufiicient labour, Canada and the States 
 could grow corn enough for the present population of 
 the whole world. California alone last year (1872) had 
 200,000 tons of wheat to spare. This, at about 5s. Gd. 
 a sack, would, it was said, yield a clear profit to the 
 growers of 20,000,000 dols. « The day is not far dis- 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 87 
 
 tant," said one paper, " when the gold mines of the 
 State will be of less account than the wheat harvest." 
 Besides the quantity of wheat mentioned, it was stated 
 that there were 12,000,000 quarters of maize in Cali- 
 fornia for exportation. There were thirty ships being 
 laden at one port at one time, and more were wanted. 
 But how is all the wheat, &c., to be consumed? For we 
 must not forget other ports of the States, as well as 
 Canada, Australia, &c. Twenty years ago, America 
 exported only one million lbs. of cheese; now sixty mil- 
 lions. Some of it is sad rubbish; but most of it is ex- 
 cellent. And what are our York Hams? Thousands 
 of them are imported from Canada and the States, sent 
 into Yorkshire to be cured, and then sold as Yorks. 
 Tongues are imported, too, by the thousand. 
 
 Their plan of making cheese is an excellent and eco- 
 nomical one. It is the " factory " system. My nephew 
 at Greenwood gave me the following particulars: A 
 cart goes round to the little farms and collects the milk 
 for the factory. There all is weighed separately and 
 then all put together and made into cheese by the owner 
 of the factory. 10 lbs. of milk make 1 lb. of cheese, for 
 which the factor has 2^ cents ; but for this he has to 
 make it, carry it to market, and sell it. The price when 
 I was there was 11;} cents per lb., being 9 cents, or about 
 4d., for the farmer; 82 lbs. oats were worth 20 cents, 
 45 lbs. barley 30 cents, 60 lbs. wheat 1 doL, 56 lbs. maize 
 86 cents, pork 6 cents per lb.; all currency value. 
 
 The Americans tell us that the " Alabama," the " Flo- 
 rida," the " Shenandoah," &c., destroyed their foreign 
 trade. If so, their foreign trade was not worth much ; 
 for all the loss that could be proved amounted to only 
 £8,200,000. But the truth is, their high protective 
 tariff has destroyed their foreign trade. When as much 
 as 80 per cent, is put on imports, will not the home 
 manufacturers raise their prices accordingly ? And will 
 not the wolfing men demand high wages in consequence ? 
 How, then, can the manufacturers compete with Eng- 
 land or Germany in foreign countries ? Yet the people, 
 as a whole, are so blind that they do not see this. Let 
 them have protection by all means, if the people gene- 
 rally will submit to it ; but let them know that it is that 
 which destroys their foreign trade. The higher their 
 
88 J. oadsby's 
 
 tariff, the more will their home manufacturers " lay it 
 on/' and the more, in consequence, will foreign ports 
 be closed against them in favour of Europe ; and as to 
 their home trade and wages, I am quite sure that Ss. 
 per day in England will go as far as 8s. in New York 
 or Boston. 
 
 I extract the following from our Board of Trade official 
 report: "Our imports from the United States in 1871 
 were of the value of £01,184,468, and our exports 
 thither reached £88,692,837. BeRides this, the Custom 
 House Registers show that we received from the United 
 States in 1871 gold and silver coin and bullion of the 
 value of £12,181,478, and exported thither gold and 
 silver coin of the value of £114,297, being £12,007,178 
 in our favour. No doubt a great part of this was for 
 interest on the Government bonds, of which many mil- 
 lions sterling are held in this country. Our import of 
 raw cotton from the United States was of the value of 
 £88,090,989 ; wheat and wheat flour, £9,514,207 ; Indian 
 corn, £2,820,978 ; cheese, £2,014,805; bacon and hams, 
 £1,919,858; lard, £1,203,800; tobacco and cigars, 
 £1,752,088; oil-seed cake, £978,815; tallow and sfcoa- 
 riue, £551,827; petroleum, £597,488; salted beef, 
 £615,986; clover and grass seeds, £518,100. Our ex- 
 ports to the United States of produce and manufactures 
 of the United Kingdom comprised 1,004,240 tons of iron, 
 wrought and unwrought, of the value of £9,224,388; 
 woollens, 99,874,893 yards, of the value of £5,518,718; 
 besides woollens entered only at value, £186,050; cot- 
 tons, 129,701,872 yards, of the value of £3,504,801, 
 besides cottons entered at value, £1,464,358; linens, 
 105,259,900 yards, of the value of £8,215,047, besides 
 linens entered at value, £101,050; and silk manufac- 
 tures, £003,169. These are largo amounts, and to them 
 we have to add apparel and haberdashery, £1,725,855. 
 There are also in the list hardware and outlery,£741,812 ; 
 earthen and china ware, £700,086; alkali, £827,051; 
 rags and other materials for making paper, £578,419. 
 The exports from this country to the United States in- 
 cluded 24,846,788 lbs. of wool, being foreign or colonial 
 produce, of the value of £1,170,417; and 2,412,598 lbs. 
 of wool of the United Kingdom, of the value of £1 85,489. 
 
 In a previous page I refer to the Chicago Union Stook 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 'W9 
 
 Yard. I learn from the official reports presented to me, 
 that in 1871 no less than 586,990 beef cattle, 2,165,119 
 hogs, and 315,023 sheep were earned into the yard by 
 railway, there sold, and then sent to all parts. In the 
 same year 1,225,286 hogs were packed in Chicago for 
 New York, Boston, and Europe. In Huskisson's Hog 
 Yard, adjoining the Union Yard, from 1,800 to 2,000 
 hogs are killed per day during the season. There is one 
 man in Ireland who kills about 8,000 every week. 
 
 I have been politely favoured with an account of live 
 stock entered in our Metropolitan Cattle Market during 
 1871; viz., 244,782 beasts, 1,586,265 sheep, and 9,280 
 pigs. Also 8,082 horses. And this in addition to the 
 thousands of beasts and sheep which, since the cattle 
 disease, are slain at the ports of entry from foreign 
 parts; the whole, or nearly the whole, being for con- 
 sumption by our four million Londoners and suburbers. 
 
 Many of my readers have read the little tract by John 
 Marrant, with an account of the <* Conversion of the 
 King of the Cherokees and his Daughter." The Che- 
 rokee country is now one of the finest cattle-breeding 
 countries in the States. Potatoes were so plentiful 
 there in 1872 that they were not worth digging. 
 
 Were it not for the gold we receive from the States as 
 interest on the bonds, it is quite clear that very little ' 
 money would pass between the two countries. All would 
 be fair barter. Ameiican corn anr* raw material would 
 be paid for by our manufactures. 
 
 In London the bankers have what is called a *' Clear- 
 ing House." Every week the bankers meet to " square 
 up" with each other. And I was >i tounded to find that 
 during the week ending May 21st, 1878, no less than 
 £141,884,000 changed hands. What an indescribable 
 amount of business this represented ! If this sum had 
 to be given in American currency, it would be thus: 
 709,170,000.00 dollars; and in French: 8,545,860,000 
 francs. 
 
 I really do not know what this modern Babylon of ours 
 will come to. In 1851 the population was 2,863,000; in 
 1871, 8,264,000, within the area. The rateable value of 
 propertyin 1866 waB£ll,288,668; in 1878, Je20,287,709. 
 The Board of Works has raised nearly £8,000,000 for im- 
 proTements. What with these and the railwaysi streets 
 
00" J. oadsby's 
 
 are so altered that I sometimes feel bewildered, though 
 I know the metropolis so well. 
 
 THE CLIMATE. 
 
 The climate of America is altogether different to that 
 of England. In England it would be a rare thing to see 
 for seven consecutive days a cloudless sky; in America 
 it would be almost as rare a thing to see for the like 
 time a sky completely overcast. Our hottest days and 
 coldest nights are the cloudless ones. If in the winter 
 we have 20 degrees of frost, we consider it very cold ; 
 but this is seldom the case ; whereas in America they 
 have often 50, 60, 70, and even 80 degrees of frost. If 
 in the summer, in the shade, we have four degrees above 
 ** Summer Heat " (76°), we deem it hot ; whereas in Ame- 
 rica they often have 22 degrees above, being "Blood 
 Heat." One day while I was in New York it was 80 
 degrees above summer heat; and on that day 200 were 
 struck down through the heat, and 75 of them died. I 
 met with one gentleman who said he had seen 41 degrees 
 above summer heat in New York ; but I have no con- 
 firmation of this. Only think of 10 degrees above blood 
 heat in the shade, perhaps only 40 or 50, in the sun, 
 below boiling! We were told that though the people 
 ' feel the hear they do not feel the cold, because of the 
 clearness of the atmosphere. It may be so ; but that is 
 contrary to my experience ; for, as I have said, odr coldest 
 nights are the perfectly clear ones, and the^ nip me most 
 uncomfortably. A gentleman at Montreal told me that 
 his 14 children, from two years old, rolled in the snow 
 while there were above 60 degrees of frost, and that 
 they enjoyed it. The snow does not appear to be snow 
 in our sense of the word, but particles of ice, which soon 
 form a solid ground on which the people can sleigh. 
 
 The St. Lawrence, at Quebec, is sometimes froz'3n to 
 a depth of 4 feet, and in the citadel there are often 
 74 degrees of frost. In conversation with the editor of 
 a paper at Montreal, I asked him how he ever managed 
 to go in such severe weather from his house to his 
 office ? " 1 " he said, " I run as hard as ever I can." 
 As in Bussia, so here; it is common enough to have 
 noses, ears, &c., frost-bitten. And persons without 
 gloves, opening their doorS) have had their hands frozen 
 
VlflIT TO AMERICA. fi 
 
 to the handles. I read also in the papers that 7,000 
 men and 1,000 horses were employed in gathering ice 
 on the Hudson, and that the crop would reach 1,500,000 
 tons. 
 
 A builder in New York told me that in excavating in 
 New York, in 1871, for foundations, to prepare for the 
 spring, the ground was frozen, to a depth of 1 feet, so 
 hard that they had at last to desist, for they broke eight 
 strong sledge hammers. Stoves must have been at a 
 premium. 
 
 But perhaps the best idea of the severity of the frost 
 may be derived from the fact that on the lakes, in 
 Canada, as well as in the States, they have ice ships; 
 that is, boats of a particular build, on skates. The 
 sails are spread, and the boats run before the wind at 
 the rate of 40 or 50 miles an hour. 
 
 In the "New York Bulletin," last March, was a para- 
 graph stating that the people of Wyoming Territory had 
 not been so badly off, as they had oniy had 72 degrees of 
 frost 1 What must it be when they are badly ofT? ♦' When 
 a man touches his blanket during the dark nights, a 
 stream of fire follows his fingers, and at every point 
 there are electric flashes!" 
 
 We all read of that fearful snow-storm in Minnesota in 
 January, 1872, when 70 persons perished. The men 
 had gone to market a few miles off, and perished in the 
 storm. Some succeeded in reaching their homes, but 
 the gates being buried in snow they could not ope: ''ora, 
 and so they perished outside; while their familieh. eir 
 cottages being half buried in snow, perislied iniide. 
 Thirty- one other persons lost their hands or feet. The 
 " New York Herald " gave a thrilling, a ghastly account 
 of this storm. ** At Ghambyslam the thermometer re- 
 gistered 86 degrees of frost ! ! " 
 
 All through the Bio Grande region of Texas, during 
 the last days of April, 1873, there was a most destructive 
 "freezing snow-storm." "A cold spell prevailed over 
 the whole continent." 
 
 Again in a Boston paper I read : " Severe weather 
 continues to prevail, but there has been considerable 
 change in the nature of the severity. From Monday 
 morning to Saturday night last week we had but one 
 fair day. The weather for most of the time was thaw- 
 
J. oadbbt's 
 
 ing, with heavy falls of rain, and sometimes thick fogs. 
 In consequence, the snow was swept off quickly, and 
 not a little of the ice disappeared. Floods and freshets 
 are reported from various parts of the country, some of 
 them very destructive. The last great snow-storm at 
 the West destroyed many lives. A number ^f children 
 were frozen to death while going to or coming from 
 school. 
 
 I had read in the papers a good deal before I left 
 home about the extreme heat prevailing all over that 
 vast continent, but was assured it would be over by the 
 time I arrived there, middle of August. Unhappily, I 
 did not find it so. Night aftpr night in my bed-room, 
 with the windows open, the thermometer stood at 89°, 
 and one day it reached 106° in the shade. I never, even 
 in Egypt or Nubia, experienced anything so oppressive. 
 In a few days I lost 12 lbs. in weight, my poor body 
 being reduced below 1 cwt. Then, to make matters 
 worse, I was tormented almost beyond endurance with 
 mosquitos, which were far more numerous and greedy 
 than either in Malta or Egypt. Having my Egyptian 
 mosquito net with me, I could protect myself from these 
 during the night ; but f .11 the day and all the evening, 
 when sitting in the parlour conversing, the fan had to 
 be in perpetual motion to keep them off; yet even then 
 my face and hands were most painfully blistered. Also 
 in the evening, when walking in the garden or in the 
 road, the pests were still there, and I had to be per- 
 petually waving my handkerchief about my face. My 
 sister-in-law seemed to be as much plagued as I was ; 
 but, singularly enough, my niece, her daughter, escaped 
 altogether, the mosquitos having no liking for her. 
 
 But though, as I have said, I could protect myself in 
 the night from the mosquitos, there was some insect which 
 tormented me as much as they did. This insect was 
 so minute that though the meshes of my net were so 
 fine that even a flea could hardly pass, this insect ma- 
 naged to worm itself through, night after night. I could 
 not get out of my net to strike a light and look for it, 
 for then I should have been a prey to the mosquitos ; so 
 that I was compelled to lie still and destroy the pests 
 when I could put my finger upon them. 
 
 The quantity of fiies, too, I have never seen equalled 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. PP' 
 
 exoept in Egypt; and the music of crickets and other 
 melodious creatures was unceasing. 
 
 In page 841, vol. II., "My Wanderings," I find it 
 stated that the thermometer during the night in the 
 cahin was at 80°, and that the cabin was like an oven ; 
 yet here it was 9 degrees hotter. 
 
 One day in New York, as I have said, no less than 200 
 were struck down by sunstroke, 75 of whom died; but 
 I did not wonder at this ; for I saw very few persons with 
 sunshades or umbrellas, and nearly every man wore a 
 black hat. I saw one man, and one only, with a turban, 
 or Havelock, on his hat. I wore a light broad-brim, and 
 also carried up my umbrella. One of the illustrated 
 papers gave some engravings, representing those who 
 bad been struck down being carried on litters to their 
 homes or hospitals. 
 
 To escape the heat, I was advised to go to the White 
 Mountains. Well, this alone showed how unbearable 
 the heat was ; but I went to America to see the or tuntry, 
 not to be shut up anywhere. Still I was compelled at 
 last, as I have elsewhere said, to go to Canada. 
 
 I never heard of the thermometer ever being in Egypt 
 as high as 106° in the shade. In this respect, therefore, 
 America is worse than Egypt. Also in another respect, 
 viia., its thunderstorms. These are comparatively rare 
 in Egypt, but in America th^y are exceedingly frequent. 
 Night after night we had them at Yonkers ; and at Bos- 
 ton, when returning from Mount Auburn, there was a 
 terrific and long-continued one, the rain descending in 
 torrents. But none of these caused the people any sur- 
 prise, being considered as a matter of course. 
 
 Nor is the country free from fogs. Far from it. 
 These are not so bad nor so frequent there as here ; but 
 there are fogs nevertheless. It was very foggy all the 
 time I was at Boston on my second visit, and my niet^e 
 said it was often so. On more than one occasion it was 
 foggy &t Yonkers ; it was foggy all the way from Pitts- 
 burg to Harrisburg; and it was so foggy when leaving 
 New York, Sept. 25th, that we had to cast anchor, and 
 the officers told me they were often detained in those 
 waters for 24 hours. These fogs must be still more fre- 
 quent in the winter. 
 
 II my reader ask me if I recommend him to go to Ame* 
 
94 J. gadsby's 
 
 rica, I reply: If you can endure 20° or 30° of heat and 
 20° or 30° of cold more than you ever experience in Eng- 
 land; if you are prepared to embrace the prejudices and 
 heartily support the institutions of the new country while 
 you ignore those of the old, and especially if you can ridi- 
 cule the latter; if tremendous thunderstorms, deluging 
 rains, and innumerable mosquitos will not frighten you ; 
 if you are surfeited with having had too much gospel 
 truth and can do without either law or gospel; in a 
 word, if you are prepared to say as our western friends 
 say and do as they do, then by all means leave all here 
 and cross the Atlantic. You will enjoy a comparatively 
 cloudless sky; you will escape the occasional black fogd 
 of London, Liverpool, and Manchester, and the almost 
 continuous mists and drizzling rains in the winter of 
 other parts of England, and you will be able to get your 
 living more easily there than here. But, mark I If you 
 go, and when there are determined, come what will, to 
 stick up for the countiy you have left, you must expect 
 nothing but buffetings from your fellow- workmen. They 
 may point to the Stars and Stripes, and call it the *' Flag 
 of Liberty ;" but rely upon it there is not half the liberty 
 in America in this respect that there is here. I should 
 not like to be the man who in New York would announce 
 a lecture against Eepublicanism ; but any number of Sir 
 Charles Dilkes's may rise up here and talk against mo- 
 narchies, and the only lashing they will get will be in 
 the papers. 
 
 I do not know that rheumatism prevails in the towns 
 in America to a greater extent than it does in England; 
 but it is certain that even in New York and Boston ague 
 and intermittent fevers exist to a great degree. In 
 page 27 I refer to a gentleman who had resided near 
 the Central Park. He was so great a sufferer from ague 
 that he was compelled to leave the country, and was 
 going to a situation in Paris. The attacks occurred 
 every seventh day. As my internal attacks occur some- 
 what periodically, and have done so ever since I was 
 seized in Jerusalem in 1864^ this gentleman thought it 
 was internal ague in a modified form; and it may be so, 
 as Dr. H., at Constantinople, in March, 1872, considered 
 it was internal neuralgia. We had also a gentleman 
 and his wife from Chicago. They too were going to 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. Oi ' 
 
 Paris, as they were martyrs to intermittent fever. And 
 the gentleman assured me that sufferers in Chicago 
 formed the rule, hy no means the exception. 
 
 The deaths from consumption in New England are 25 
 per cent. 
 
 Our transatlantic friends make a mistake when they 
 say theirs is the finest climate in the world. It is, be- 
 yond doubt, in many respects, superior to that of Eng- 
 land; but it is no more to be compared with Spain, 
 Italy, or Greece, than the West Indies is to be compared 
 with America. So far as I experienced of the weather in 
 America, and so far as I have read of itti extremes, I must 
 say I prefer the English, with all its drawbacks. 
 
 Now, is America more healthy than England? Far 
 from it. From our mortality returns for 1870, it ap- 
 peared that during the year the deaths of 18 males and 
 of 63 females, whose ages were stated to be upwards of 
 100 years, were registered; in all, 81 persons, against 63 
 and 79 respectively in 1869. The highest ages said to 
 have been attained in 1870 were 108, by a male, who 
 died at Stone, in Staffordshire, and 107 by a female, who 
 died at Huddersfield. There are hundreds, I believe 
 thousands in the country between 80 and 100 years of 
 age. I have myself seen more than one above 100, one 
 at 108, and another at 110. ■ ' < 
 
 THE LOCAL PASSENGEli STEAMERS, &c. 
 
 The Americans may well smile when they see our 
 little Thames steamers ; but they should remember that 
 we have no use for the ponderous ones I am about to 
 describe, and that while theirs only run once a day, even 
 on the Hudson, ours run every five or six minutes ; and 
 where theirs carry one passenger per day, ours carry seve- 
 ral hundreds. The rivers are suited to the countries, 
 and the boats to the rivers. Their boats could not pass 
 under our bridges. 
 
 If I describe the boat from New York to Fall River, it 
 will answer for the rest ; it being understood that there 
 is only one more like this one, and that the others are 
 much smaller, only on a similar plan, with the exception 
 
 I of sleeping cabins, &c. Well, then, this boat, as well as 
 her sister boat, is about 878 feet long and 88 feet beam. 
 It has three decks, with 16 feet hold, and will com- 
 
96 J. gadsby'b 
 
 fortably carry 2,500 passengers. The berths are 8 feet 
 wide, and as comfortable as berths can be, especially the 
 outer ones. The inner decks are fitted up like drawing- 
 rooms, with sofas, carpets, tables, &c. The engines are 
 of 2,800 horse power. The dining-room is in the hold; 
 and unless you hold hard your purse-strings you will 
 have to pay heavily for what you have. Seeing on the 
 bill of fare "English mutton chops," 1 ordered two. 
 And what were they? Two lankey sheep's neck bones, 
 with not as much meat upon them, — and that so hard 
 that I declare, without exaggeration, I could hardly get 
 my knife through them — as would cover a penny piece. 
 Nor was there even a particle of fat ; only skin. And 
 for these I had to pay 2s., besides 6d. for bread, &c. I 
 said to the steward, " If these be English mutton chops, 
 I nc'er before knew what English mutton chops were ; 
 and rely upon it I shall never see any more." 
 
 Not only the drawing-room saloon and the dining- 
 room, but every cabin is fitted up with gas, which is 
 made on board; but not the slightest unpleasantness 
 arises from the manufacture. 
 
 Notices are posted in various parts of the boats, to 
 beware of pickpockets, not to leave the cabin doors open, 
 &c.; and in the outside cabins, i,e.j those which have 
 windows looking on to the gangway, or promenade, 
 there is this notice, — to see that the window is fastened 
 and the door locked. All this is necessary. On return- 
 ing (in Sept.) from my second visit to Boston, some one 
 knocked at my cabin door. I took no notice. Then the 
 handle was turned. I suddenly unlocked and opened 
 the door, when a decently>dressed man begged pardon 
 and disappeared like a shot. 
 
 I must not omit referring to the ferry- steamers at New 
 York. You take your ticket, three cents if my memory 
 is not at fault. You pass through a little gate and take 
 a seat on a large platform, as you suppose. Horses, 
 carriages, carts, waggons, all drive on to the same plat- 
 form. You look out at the end of the platform, to see 
 if the ferry-boat be coming; but presently. you find you 
 are moving, that you are already on the ferry-boat; and 
 so you cross. Such a one would be useless in the Thames, 
 as we have bridges ; but at New York the waters are too 
 wide to admit of bridges on either side of the oity* 
 
VISIT TO AUERICA. f7 
 
 RAILWAYS AND TRAMWAYS. 
 • Tlie progress which has been made in America since 
 railways were introduced into that vast continent from 
 England is perfectly astounding. I have now before 
 me Appleton's Guide, which, though it lacks our index 
 of stations, a general map, and a guide for through traffic, 
 is in many respects superior to our Bradshaw. It con- 
 tains many local maps of the different lines, but a 
 stranger rannot possibly unite them. There is a rail- 
 way, or rather a series of railways, from New York to 
 San Francisco, about 3,319 miles, without change of 
 carriage; but the Guide does not tell us on what lines 
 the trains run. A map of the whole country, though 
 on a small scale, would show all this, as our Bradshaw 
 does England, &c. 
 
 Appleton uses the term railway throughout his Guide ; 
 but, with only one exception, so far as I travelled, the 
 term rail road is used (two words). I fancy some painter 
 must have suggested this, as on every carriage an addi- 
 tional letter has to be painted; to wit, '* N. Y. C. «fe 
 H. R. R. R." — New York Central and Hudson River 
 Rail Road. 
 
 Then, again, what we call stations, are called depots; 
 but this is certainly not correct, for a depot means lite- 
 rally a magazine, or place for depositing goods or provi- 
 sions, and the Americans are far too lively to te com- 
 pared to goods. So, what we call railway carriages- 
 they call cars. Whether we are right or not, they are 
 certainly wrong ; for their own lexicographer, Webster, 
 in his original editions, says a car is usually understood 
 to mean a small conveyance on two wheels. And this 
 is what we understand by the term. But in a later 
 edition, edited by one Dr. Goodrich, this is omitted, 
 and it is given, ** A cart, a chariot, a large carriage on 
 railroads," which is contradictory nonsense. The same 
 as to what we call tramways and tram- carriages; over 
 the water they are called street cars. Omnibuses they 
 call horse cars. 
 
 As I am writing mainly for English readers I shall of 
 
 course use English terms. I merely mention the diffe- 
 
 ence, as some in America may see this little work, and 
 
 fi puzzled to know what a tramway or omnibus is. To 
 e it is of perfect indifference as to which term is used. 
 ■ 
 
96 J> oadsby's 
 
 As is welt known, the railway carriages in America 
 are open from end to end, the entrances being from a 
 small platform at either end, and there is a passage 
 right through all the carriages from one end of the train 
 to the other; so that a passenger may, if he please, 
 begin at one end of the train and, passing through all 
 the carriages, go to the other, while the train is going. 
 On either side of the passage there are seats for two 
 persons, not facing each other, but all facing the engine, 
 in file; and these seats are only hack high; i.e., not 
 high enough for the head. Take one of our old Great 
 Western third-class carriages, cut a gangway down the 
 middle, leaving room for two passengers on either side, 
 turn the seats so as for the passengers all to face 
 towards the engine, cushion them, close all the side 
 doors, and open a door at either end, and you have an 
 . American railway carriage ; the only difference being 
 that in almost every American carriage there is a lava- 
 tory, which is of immense value; indeed, it is indispen- 
 sable on long lines ; but, for reasons I need not state 
 here, could not possibly be brought into use on our 
 lines, even though we had the same build of carriage. 
 On some of the continental lines there is a separate car- 
 riage with a lavatory ; but in this country there would 
 be the same objection to that as to the other. 
 
 You cannot take with you into the railway carriages 
 anything but small bags or parcels, simply because there 
 is no place in which you can stow them away. You 
 cannot put anything under your seat, for the underpart 
 is required for the feet of the person behind you, just as 
 the under- seat before you is for your feet. Neither are 
 there any large cradles above your heads for bags, &c. 
 
 The fare throughout England for third class or *' par- 
 liamentary" trains is one penny per mile, though some 
 lines have still lower rates. In America there is only 
 one class, and that is about three cents per mile ; unless 
 you go into a Pulman or Palace car, which is extra. 
 
 In England, at the end of 1871, there were 15,876 
 miles of railway; in Scotland, 2,688; in Ireland, 1,988. 
 The cost of the whole was £552,682,000. The receipts 
 for 1871 were £47,107,558, and the working expenses 
 £22,682,046, or above 48 per cent. I wish I had parti- 
 culaxs of the American lines. 
 
VISIT TO AMERICA. 99 
 
 ' I refer in a previous part to the seat I invariably took, 
 wlien I could get it, behind the door. As persons are 
 continually passing in and out, the door is constantly 
 going bang, bang, slam, slam ; and every time it is opened 
 there is not only a strong draught, but, when the wind 
 is ahead, an income of smoke and ashes, and sometimes 
 of sparks of fire. I am not exaggerating when I say I 
 saw ladies shaking the ashes from their dresses. My 
 cap was so blackened that I had to have it washed, and 
 the water in which I washed my head was as black as 
 my cap. All this is unavoidable in that construction of 
 carriage. On going to Boston the second time the door 
 was so slammed that the window was smashed to atoms. 
 The guard took no notice of it, but looked as though it 
 were a matter of course. 
 
 On two or three occasions I saw carriages in com- 
 partments, with side doors, on the same principle as 
 ours; and on them were displayed the words: " Draw- 
 ing-Eoom Car." I essayed to get into one at Boston, 
 for Fall Kiver, but found that every seat was taken, 
 though the fare was considerably higher than in the 
 others. There were seven compartments in it. 
 
 The Pulman cars, or Palace cars, as they are some- 
 times called, are for sleeping in. You book by them, 
 paying extra, of course. You take the whole ** section," 
 for yourself and your friend ; say 4 dols. extra from the 
 Falls to Chicago. You enter the carriage, and you find it, 
 unlike the other carriages, in compartments, Bittmg face to 
 face; very good. By and by, a " darky " makes his ap- 
 pearance. ** Will you have your berth made up ?" " Yos, 
 if you please." He draws some curtains, turns down the 
 backs of the seats, unrolls a bed and some beddin; from 
 above, brings clean sheets and pillow-cases, and your 
 bed, about 3 feet wide, is ready. Then he contrives to 
 fit up another above you, in like manner, and this forms 
 the *' section." The cleanliness of the beds depends much 
 upon the " darkies." Mine was not very clean. I was 
 indeed uncomfortably disturbed in the night. In some, 
 it may bte sb m aX\, tbertf h se little pocket afiixed to your 
 berth."* 'I€«yod»^pfu't3frour*tic&fei there, you will not have 
 to be disturbed when the ticket-coIldct(rr goes his rounds, 
 as herek'^fii^f stated. 'V^ f • ^ "*:?;':•• 
 
 Before artivin^ at "•sT itMiQi), ar ticket-collector goes 
 
> 1 
 
 100 J. oadsby'b 
 
 round and colleots the tickets for that station, and to 
 take pay from those who have not taken tickets ; for, 
 with exceptions on some lines, persons may get in with- 
 out paying. I have seen the collectors with their hands 
 fyll of notes, rolled round their fingers. Unless they are 
 more honest than some of our omnibus conductors, they 
 must ** feather their nests." In some cases you are 
 charged a few cents more if you have no ticket. A 
 director of the Manchester Omnibus Company once told 
 me they knew they were defrauded out of iJ8,000 a year, 
 and I read that the London General Omnibus Company 
 suffered to the extent of £60,000 a year. 
 
 When taking your ticket on some lines, a small slip 
 of paper is given to you, having on it a list of all the 
 stations on the lino, with the times at which the train 
 is due. On all the lines your luggage is numbered and 
 a corresponding number is given to you, as on the Con- 
 tinent ; and just before you arrive at the principal sta- 
 tions a man comes round with his arm covered with 
 brass Nos. attached to straps. At so much each package 
 he will take your luggage to your house or hotel. You 
 give him the railway No. which you have, and he gives 
 you his. You may go right away, as he will procure 
 and safely convey your luggage. But these plans, ex- 
 cellent as they are, could not possibly bo carried out in 
 England, the trains are so numerous. 
 
 Iq 80th Street, New York, is the old railway station 
 for Yonkers, and there is a central station in 42nd 
 Street. This .is a really good building, though without 
 the extravagant show that our North-Western at Euston 
 Square or the Midland at St. Pancras displays. None 
 of the stations or terminuses which I saw have the com- 
 fortable waiting-rooms which are universal in England. 
 At Boston a new building was being erected for one of 
 the lines which would be the only decent one in the 
 city. The ordinary stations on the lines are mere sheds, 
 or hovels, in a wilderness. But the country is young. 
 
 The most extraordinary railway nuisance in New 
 York or in the wide world ie • Jhe Elevate^. Railway, 
 which runs from jtlie IJatteryi along. lH][i,AviBnuo,oto 30th 
 Street. This runs over the footpath^ on. iron pillars, 
 within three isu Jqi^. feet, of •thQ,|)«&oOm; \fin4ows. 
 Standing on th^^^atform^y'.wcan see right into the 
 
VISIT TO AMEBICA. 101 
 
 rooms. A small locomotive draws the carriages. Nothing- 
 less than excessive bribery could ever have induced any 
 legislators to allow such a nuisance. Yet perhaps I am 
 wrong in saying this is the greatest nuisance ; for even 
 the main lines run right through some parts of New 
 York as well as other cities; yes, even within three feet, 
 as I have seen, of houses and shops, without any fence 
 whatever. A large bell on the engine is kept ringing in 
 these parts ; but I was assured the loss of life was fear- 
 ful ; and how can it be otherwise ? 
 
 I have said elsewhere that our carriage was drawn 
 through Baltimore by horses. It was the same in New 
 York from one station to the 42nd Street. In Phila- 
 delphia the carriages were drawn by 12 mules in the 
 heart of the city. At Wilmington the train stopped for 
 15 or 20 minutes right in the middle of the main street, 
 which was narrow, and the train close almost to the 
 footpath, there being no fence whatever; and a cross 
 street was completely blocked ; so that persons wishing 
 to go across had to go right round the train. At Wash- 
 ington, right in front of and not far from the Capitol, in 
 the main street, engines and trains are continually run- 
 ning. Fences appear utterly ouli of the question every- 
 where. 
 
 In all the distance I travelled by rail I only remember 
 to have seen two tunnels, one on the Allegheny Moun- 
 tains, and the other, I think, on the Pennsylvania line. 
 Bridges over the lines seemed quite out of the question, 
 except two or three on the Pennsylvania line. All 
 must cross on the level. I read in the report of the 
 Grand Trunk Kailway of Canada that the company had 
 had to pay £8,000 one half year for cattle killed. Doubt- 
 less other lines are the same. But this is not surprising, 
 seeing there are no fences; simply a bell, or notices, 
 "Beware of the engine;" " Look out for the trains." 
 
 In ou" tramway carriages, as in our omnibuses, the 
 number of passeugers is limited by law; but there is no 
 limit in America. I was once standing near the con- 
 ductor of a tram in America when there were six or 
 eight standing inside. "You've a pretty »ood load," I 
 said to the conductor. "You don't call this a load, do 
 you ? There's plenty of room yet ! " And so it proved ; 
 for ere long we were completely packed. And I saw this 
 
1C2 J. gadsby's 
 
 over and over again. I never saw one person turned 
 away because there was no room. 
 
 I will now put in contrast tljie advantages and disad- 
 vantages of tho American railway carriages with the 
 European ones; and my reader may choose which he 
 pleases. 
 
 1. In tho American carriages there is no danger of 
 assaults being committed, as is the case in an English 
 carriage occasionally, for there are almost certain to be 
 more than merely two or three persons in each carriage. 
 — 2. There is the lavatory and a jar of ice water in the 
 summer, and there is a stove in each carriage in the 
 winter. — 3. Before arriving at the various stations the 
 conductor passes through the carriages and collects the 
 tickets for such stations. I do not know that I can pro- 
 duce another thing on this side the question. 
 
 Now for the other side: 1. There is an objection to 
 the compartments holding only eight or ten persons, as 
 often there are not more than two or three in them, and 
 assaults may be committed ; but the Metropolitan Dis- 
 trict and the North London (outer circle) have their 
 carriages open throughout, in compartments, but open 
 only above head height ; so that the head can be rested 
 as well as the back, and in the corners a man can sleep 
 snugly enough ; whereas none of the American carriages 
 have backs higher than below the shoulders, which will 
 try any person's back who is travelling far. — 2. As there 
 is never the same degree of heat in England as in 
 America, ice water is not so necessary, though, if it 
 could be had in the carriages, it would sometimes be 
 acceptable. In lieu of stoves there are foot-warmers, as 
 on the Continent. (The French first brought out these.) 
 These are universal in all first-class carriages, and on 
 the North- We stern, Great Northern, and Midland, in 
 second and third class also. On the other lines, such as 
 the South- Western, they can be had in second class on 
 payment of sixpence. — 3. We in England may travel 200 
 miles, or more, without having to show our tickets more 
 than once or twice; whereas, in America, we have to 
 show them so often (on the Peimsylvania line at every 
 station) that travellers often stick them in their hats, to 
 save them the trouble of constantly producing them.~ 
 4. A party of six or eight can occupy a compartment, and 
 
VIBIT TO AMERICA. 108 
 
 converse on the way ; whereas, in America, as only two 
 can sit together, and none opposite to them, except in 
 the Pulman cars, friendly conversation is very difficult. 
 — 5. There is no banging of doors, no continual passing 
 and repassing. — 6. The doors being at the sides, smoke 
 and ashes can be excluded by keeping the windows 
 closed; whereas, as I have shown, we are subject to 
 both, especially when the wind is ahead, every time the 
 door facing the engine is open. — 7. We may take our 
 portmanteaus, if not very large, with us into the car- 
 riage, and put them under the seats, and our umbrellas, 
 bags, &c., in the cradles above. — 8. We are not com- 
 pelled to listen to such conversation as I have described 
 in page 71. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 I )\ave referred in page 83 to my second visit to Bos- 
 ton, Sept. 17th. I left for Now York in the afternoon 
 of the 20th, vid Fall Kiver. 
 
 Another delicious evening. O how beautifully the sun 
 is setting ; how much more beautifully he has set. 
 
 I slept marvellously well in that floating palace, the 
 " Providence." The motion of the boat was hardly per- 
 ceptible. I was almost sorry when, at 8 in the morning, 
 I found we were at New York. 
 
 I am tempted here to give a description of the "hack" 
 drivers, their unequalled extortions, and the laxity of the 
 police; but I had better leave it. I may just observe, 
 however, that one policeman told me there was no regu- 
 lar fare for hacks, and that the police never interfered 
 if the drivers did not charge more than three dollars ! 
 
 On Sept. 23rd, my niece's husband drove me, my sister- 
 in-law, and my niece from Fall Eiver, to Tarry Town, on 
 the Hudson, to spend the day with the three Misses 
 Copcutt, sisters of Mr. Copcutt. Situate on the banks 
 of the Hudson, their grounds are lovely. These ladies, 
 like their brother, sorely feel the loss of a preached gos- 
 pel. (See "G. S." for May, 1878, p. 190; my reader 
 will there see all I could say.) A Yea and Nay gospel 
 will not suit them. The Gospel, with all its precious 
 prom,lses. is all Yea in GhriRt Jesus. There is no Nay 
 about ^t; "" " ...... i » 
 
 and cur 
 otho^^wise, 
 
 • ••• 
 
104 J. gadsby's visit to akebica. 
 
 away a basketfal of Newtown pippins. Some of thenr 
 kept well until March. Mr. C. also gave me three kegs 
 of apples for myself and others. Who has not heard 
 of Newtown pippins ? Some like them better than our 
 ribstones or nonpareils. The autumn pippin, Mr. Cop- 
 cutt told me, often weighs 18 oz. 
 
 I became weaker every day ; and as the heat continued, 
 I resolved upon returning by the •' Scotia" on the 26th, 
 and not to wait for the next boat. Indeed, I do not be- 
 lieve I could have lived a month longer if the heat were 
 not subdued. Sept. 26th, therefore, saw me again on 
 board that magnificent boat, having a cabin to myself, 
 and enjoying every possible comfort. I make no reflec- 
 tions upon the other Atlantic companies ; but I may be 
 excused if I say I was so well satisfied with the ** Scotia" 
 on the Atlantic, and the "Hecla" on the Mediterra- 
 nean, both belonging to the Cunard Company, that I 
 stiould not think of travelling by any other Co. going 
 the same way ; just as I should take the Penisular and 
 Oriental Company were I going to Egypt. Is it not a 
 wonderfal providence that, though they have carried 
 millions of passengers, the Cunard Company never lost 
 one ? Their officers, too, at any rate if we except the cap- 
 tain of the "Scotia," who belongs to the captain aristo- 
 cracy, — proud of his ship, and not without good reason, 
 and wishes the passengers know it — their officers ar& 
 sociable, kind, and obliging. 
 
 O what fearful losses at sea I read of even while I 
 was away, — ships on fire, ships run down, ships on rooks, 
 ships going down without leaving a vestige of informa- 
 tion behind them ; and yet the Lord, in his abundant 
 mercy, preserved me through the whole, and brought 
 me back in safety to my own dear native land, — a land 
 of rain and fogs, and toil and labour, but where there 
 is comparative security for hfe and property ; a land of 
 genuine, not sham liberty; and where the pure gospel is 
 still preached. . 
 
 ** Where'er I roam, whatever lands I see, 
 My heart, un^vell'd, fondly turns to thee.'' 
 
 
 CiiMVim anbCo., T«Hq^« PtiniinffWorkfi, ]lN(niye^«Str«ce,ljo«ftOft. '•