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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ADDRESS ON THE nori:hwesi\ HEFORE THE %mtmm itflgnrplitiil una misiml Somlj), DKI.IVIiltED AT NEW VOItK, DKJKMBEK 2, 135s, V. V ISAAC I. STEVENS. WASHINGTON: •J . S, OlDEON, PRINTER. 1858, S 8 4A- ADDRESS. Mr. ['resident and GentlExMen of the American Geographical and Statistical Society: Ladies and Gentlemen : The northwest portion of the American Continent has of late, and is now, attracting Touch attention. It lias hitherto, except a portion of our own domain, been considered only a great hunting field, rich in furs, and capable of furnishing wealth and influence to a trading establishment. The history of this domain, though meagre, is interesting. The coast was explored in the latter part of the last century by American, English and Spanish navigators. A Boston shipmaster gave name to the Columbia river and to Gray's harbor, between that point and Cape Flattery. A Spanish navigator gave name to the Straits de Fuca, and other points in the vicinity; and British navigators gave name to Vancover's island, and to other points of the adjacent waters and coasts. Although two centuries since the Jesuit missionaries ])enetrated to the Northwest from the Mississippi, it was not till towards the close of the last century that the North- west Company and the Hudson's Bay Company pushed their explorations to the frozen ocean and to the Pacific, in about ]^arallel 52. About this time they established posts over all this ex- tensive country. The explorations of Lewis and Clark at an early part of the present century, made known to us the two great rivers across the continent—the Missouri and the Columbia— and the general cliaracter of tlie country. They ±z^ij^'>'ospected in each year, and this year we find its mineral wealth is attracting the attention of the civil- ized world. We find that both in AVashington and in British Columbia, facts exist, which establish the extent and richness of their gold diggings. This seems therefore to be an opportune moment for presenting in a careful and deliberate manner tlie geog- raphy, resources, and ultimate development of that entire region. This is the object which I propose by my address of this evening. I shall endeavor to do this with all the dis- passionate judgment that I can command. My pur]iose is not as the partisan, to set forth the advantages of a par- ticular section of country, but to present that section fairly and candidly, both in its relation to the countries north « and soulli, and the grout conni't'tioiis ou.st tiiid west. T«» fiicilitatc the investigation of this wliolc subject, I have liad ])roparcd a map on a largo scale, giving the entire northern portion of the continent from tlie parallel of San Francisco and Washington city to Hudson's bay. On this map 1 liave exhibited the mountain ranges, the great navi- gable streams, the practicable passes and the principal prairie regions. Looking on that map, your attention is arrested first by the great mountain cliain from which flow waters to either ocean. Following those waters, you ol)- serve great rivers having long, distant courses before they reach the Gulf of Mexico, Hudson's bay, the Frozen ocean, and the Pacific ocean. Observe especially those two great i-ivers, the Missouri and the Columbia; follow them up to tlieir upper tributaries, and you will find that they inter- lock in the very heart of the Rocky mountains. You will find that from the head of steamboat navigation of the one river, to the head of steamboat navigation on the other, the distance is but inconsiderable compared with the entire distance across the continent. There is Fort Benton, 2,415 miles nbovc St. Louis. To this point you can take steamers seven ths in the year, carrying 150 tons of freight, and here at the mouth of the Palousc, on the great southern tributary of the Columbia, Snake river, you come a,gain to waters navigable by steamers. The distance from the head of steamboat navigation on the Missouri, to the head of steamboat navigation on the Columbia, is but 450 miles. There arc other streams, second only in importance to the Missouri. The two branches of the Saskatchawan, that have their sources also in the Rocky mountains, north of the Missouri, stretch a great distance eastward to Lake Winnipeg, and find their way northward into Hudson's bay. They connect also with the main Columbia itself, affording transit for passengers and freight many months of the year: and thus the Columbia river and the two I)i'iiin;lu's ol l,lu; SiiskjiU-liiUVJin liiivt' 1-',mii tin- !j;ivut lines i.l travel of llio lliulsoii'.s iijiy C()mi)iin\ . II is tlii»ii,i!,li tliut country tliuy liuvc cstablislicMl their many pests. 1 propose in this connection sinipjy to refer to these streams geo<5ra])h- ically. In another part of my address I shall refer to tlieni more as avenues of travel and (^f commerce. Tlie Mississippi lias also its source in this rcut the great feature: of the n(»rthern portion of the American continent is the water line of the great lakes, which stretch more than half way across from the x\tlanti(; to the Pacific; a fact of deep significance, when we con- sider that vessels, without breaking bulk, can pass thence to Europe, either by the Canadian canals and the St. Lawrence, or by the New York canals and the Hudson. Thus, then, we find that the country w^hich wo are de- scribing, geographically, is one of great natural water lines across the continent — the great lakes, the Missis- sippi, the Red river of the north, the Missouri, the two branches of the Saskatchawan, and the Columbia. H' we look to the extreme southern portion of the country under consideration, we find it deficient in navigable streams. After leaving the Missouri, its tributaries in the vicinity of the route, the Kansas, the Platte, and the Run- ning Water, are unnavigablo ; and we do not come to navi- gable streams again until we have crossed the Sierra Ne- vada, and gone far down into tbo valley of the Sacra- mento. 1 uocil ni»t wl'i'i pai'liciilurl;' \*> llic iiuiiiiiliiin cImiiiM whicli cluiruck'rizu tliis CDUiiiry — tlic Sierra Nuvadu <»t' California, and the Cascade Tiionntain.s of Orepjon and VvaslMngton, stretching far to the nortlnvard : the Rocky Mountain chain, having a vast extension in the parallel of San Francinco and Washington city, and to the northward of the South Pass, and then greatly diminishing in hreadtli still i'urthcr north, until it passes beyond the 49tli parallel into the British possessions. Again, there are, intermediate l)etween these two great chains, many subsidiary chains, branching off from the Sierra Nevada, the Cascades, and the Kocky mountains, which need not be more specifically referred to. Another peculiarity of the country of the Missouri and the Columbia is, that on the eastern slope thei)rairie region extends to the very base of the Rocky mountains. On and northward of the railroad line, from Fort Union along the valley of Milk river to Fort Benton, there are no upheavals, with the single exception of the Three Buttes, which rise out of the prairie just under the 49th parallel, three thousand feet high, about 10(> miles eastward of the Rockv moun- tains. If you look to the Rocky Mountain region, between the 40th and 4yth parallels, you will find that it is essentially a country of prairies. West of the Bitter Root chain of mountains, a great plain stretches to the Cascade moun- tains, on the west, and from the 48th to below the 46th parallel. This prairie region is, for the most part, well watered, well grassed, and fiirnishes a large iiortion of arable land. One other feature remains to be considered in the geo- graphy of this country, and that is, the two great ports on this coast, San Francisco and Puget's sound. San Fran- cisco is the great port of California, and must ever be a great key-point of business and commerce. But Puget's sound is admitted by all naval and military <^cntlemen I i geo- ;s on ran- be a ;et's men wild cvtM" visited itsNvuttM's, to Imthe most reiiiarkulil*' loiid- Htoad on the shores of any ocean. It has I, GOO miU'S of shore-line and p;reat nnmhers of land-lockjd, commodious, and defensible harbors. It can be entered l>y any wind, '"a scarcely ever obstructed by fog, and is the nearest point to the great ])nrts of Asia of any harlior on our wostern coast. With this brief statement of the geogra])hy, I will now consider the resources of this country ; and at this stage of the proceeding, 1 am reminded of the discussions, which have occurred witliin twenty years, in which tliat country has been pronounced an inhospitable, cold, and barren country, fit only for Indians, wild beasts, and huntera. Why, sir, the climate of Tuget's sound i,j iiilder than that of New York. You never find ice on its surface, or snow for more than a few days at a time on its shores ; and our gooa friends in San Francisco have to go north to the Russian possessions to get ice. The resources of Puget's sound and the country on the Columbia river and on the Willamette are literally inexhaustible. The whole coun- try in either territory west of the Cascade mountains has, for the most part, a fertile soil, a climate so mild through the winter that cattle do not require fodder, and seed can be sown from September to March • and then we have the glorious summers, which enable us to gather our cropa without fear that they will be injured by rain. The forests on Puget's sound are a great source of wealth. At this time there are on that sound nine large steam-mills and many water-mills in operation, manufacturing lumber, and several large spar establishments. Seventy-five millions of lumber are now manufactured a year, more than half of which is sent to foreign ports. Spars are not only sent to Asia, the Sandwich Islands, and Australia, but to the navies of France and England ; and they have been pro- nounced by the inspectors to be the best spars they ever 2 lu saw ; and yet the lumber and spar business is in its in- fancy. Within one mile of the shores of Puget's sound, there is more timber than can be found on all the tributaries of all the waters of the State of Maine. On the coast there are extensive fisheries of cod and halibut, which stretch from the mouth of the Columbia river to beyond Vancouver's island. This portion of our coast also abounds in whales, and a single little tribe of Indians^ the Macaws, at Cape Flat- tery, with their rude means, have produced 30,000 gal- lons of oil in a single year. On the eastern shores of the sound, and on the Straits de Fuca, there is coal which has been pronounced by ex- perts to be adapted to river steamers, and the opinion has been ventured that it will answer for ocean steamers, though this has not been tested. The country also abounds in water-power near to navi- gable waters, with all the conveniences to apply it to manu- facturing and mechanical purposes with economy and success. From the Cascade mountains to the Rocky mountains there is a vast pastoral and agricultural region. Looking on this map I point out to you the Yakima country, admitted by all to be a good grazing country. In the portion immediately north of the Columbia, there is a single tract of 2,000 square miles of arable land. I will take you to the Walla- Walla valley, which, from this height, (near AVild-horse creek,) presents as pleasant a landscape as one's eyes ever beheld. Here is this beautiful valley before you, its streams lined with cottonwood, the neighboring mountain spurs covered with pine, giving you the most delightful picture of what it Avill be, when it be- comes settled and occupied. You can see in imagination cities and villages along these streams, the village school and the chiirch-spiro. Nearly the whole of this country. 1 11 between these mountains and Snake river, is an arable country, and nearly one half of it is adapted to small farms. This valley, or rather re-entering of Snake river, is the great key of our interior, and can subsist a farming popu- lation of 100,000 souls. The country west of the Bitter Root, and north of Snake river, andtiience extending westward nearly to the meridian, passing through the mouth of the Palouse, has a fertile soil, adapted to wheat, cereals, and vegetables. As regards the portion west of this meridian, it is somewhat affected by drought, and is more of a grazing than an agricultural country. On the line of the Columbia, on the shores of many of the streams and lakes, and in many intervening swales and valleys, tracts will be found where there is land enough to supply the grazing population, which that country is able to support. The country north of the Spokane, and thence to the 49th parallel, is wooded, and a very considerable portion of it is arable. The Bitter Root mountains are covered with heavy timber — pine and fir, and larch and cedar. I do not wish to be thought to speak as a sanguine man, when I dwell on this country between the Bitter Root and the Rocky mountains, known as the Flathead country. If you look to the isothermal lines which are drawn on this map, you will see that there is nothing in the con- dition of the temperature to prevent the raising of crops. But we have the practical experience of the few settlers, and of the Jesuit missionaries in that country, to estab- lish the fact both of the certainty and of the goodness of the crops. I estimate that in the Flathead country, and along the eastern slopes of the Rocky mountains, the amouiit of arable land is at least one-third of the whole, and that it will be found to exceed 12,000 square miles. The country from the Rocky mountains to the great rivers running to the Gulf of Mexico and Hud- son's bay — I refer to the country stretching to the great m 12 r 1 ! I I 1: lakes, the Upper Mississippi, tind Lake Winnipeg, and watered by the Upper Missouri and its tributaries, by tlje two branches of the Saskatchawan and the Red river of the north — is adapted for the most part to settlement and civilization. It is not simply a grazing country, but all through it are large bodies of arable land, that entitle it to the distinction of being considered an agricultural country. In my judgment, the time will come when tliere will be agricultural settlements throughout the whole extent of this country, from the Mississippi to the shores of the Pacific, simply excepting limited extents of country along the higher part of the mountain chains, and in some of the prairie regions, to be referred to more particularly hereafter. As illustrative of the capacity of this country, I beg to refer to a few facts. The Indians of Washington Territory and Oregon, east of the Cascade mountains, are rich in horses and cattle, the former of which have been introduced within a hundred, and the latter within thirty years. Their wealth perhaps is not equalled by any civilized community on this continent. Indians among those tribes own from 1,000 to 4,000 head of horses and cattle each. The Spokanes and Flathead nation have many horses and cattle, which range the winter long without fodder, and, as I know from personal observation, they do not shrink away but very little in flesh. Never have I seen fatter beef than the Indian cattle, in the Walla- Walla, in January. At Fort Benton and Fort Union, where tliere are large numbers of horses and cattle, they retain their flesh all winter without fodder. We now come to the development of this great portion of our country, which I shall consider both as regards the agencies actually at work now to develop the region, and the measures which should be adopted looking to the ad- vancement and prosperity of the whole country. Much has been already done. The country has been explored by order of the government, A commencement has been aiiu they I 1 made in surveying the public lands. Some progress has been made in negotiating treaties with the Indian tribes, and those same Indian tribes have recently been shown a memorable instance of the power and the determination of the government, to protect the lives of its citizens. The surveys liave enabled me to speak with certainty of the resources of the country, and they will enable me to sj)eak with some confidence as to other measures which ought to be undertaken to develop that country, looking always to the honor and renown of all these United States. The discovery of gold in British Columbia has developed . on the part of the British people, an earnest persistent de- termination to establish communications across the conti- nent to bind into one union all its North American posses- sions. It is an object Avorthy the power and enterprise and the prestige of the British government, and I thank God tliat there is not an impulse of my soul, which would cause me to feel any uneasiness or any jealousy at the success of such an undertaking. Here we £i,re, two great powers, speaking the same tongue, and let us look upon it as .? friendly race for supremacy. Let us see which, in this friendly race, will outstrijD the other — which shall be the carriers of the commerce of the world. Gentlemen, the time has passed for men seriously to dis- cuss the question as to whether the wants of commerce, the duties and responsibilities of government, the fulfill- ing the relations of social and domestic life, do not demand a secure and rapid transit from ocean to ocean. The question simply is, is it practicable to establish great lines of travel from the water line of the great lakes to our magnificent Puget's sound, chat port which is the nearest of all our ports to Asia? Again the question is, do not great national interests urge the accomplishment of this enterprise at the earliest possible moment? It is not whether such an undertaking will inure to the benefit of Puget's sound or the people of the great lakes, but whether this is not a project It upon vvliich rests tlie questiou, as to whether the great car- rying trade from Asia to Europe shall pass over American or British soil; whether upon the success of this undertak- ing does not rest the question, whether the key of the Northern Pacific shall be in the hands of the American people or in the hands of the subjects of a foreign power. It seems to me that not New York, or Boston, or Portland, is alone interested, but every part of our Atlantic and Gulf coast, and the entire country. And, Mr. President, if it be a practicable undertaking to build tliis road and establish tliis route, it is the duty of our government and of our people to push it forward. It ceases to be sectional and geographical and partisan, and it rises into a noble and elevated nationality, to which all hearts should yield. I propose to discuss this question in the light of the practical experience, developed in the prose- cution of great railroad enterprises, in regard to which the facts stand out in letters of gold. The first question which I shall consider is, the objec- tions urged against the northern route in consequence of the severity of the climate and the excessive depth of the snows, and I regret to be obliged to waste time on a matter wliich has long since been established. But it is still call«d in question by men of intelligence, and has even place in ofiicial reports. In an examination of that country, which I made in the years 1853-'4-'5, I deemed it a fundamental and essen- tial fact to be determined, and it was determined in a manner that will enable me to speak positively. The passes of the Kocky mountains. Hell Gate, Northern Little Blackfoot, and Oadot's Pass were crossed by my parties in the months of December, January, February and March, in the years 1853-'4, and in no one of these passes did they find more than fifteen inches of snow. In the win- ter of 1854-'5, the Flathead Indians passed through these passes in January, Feb-uary, and March; whole tribes, t with their women jind i^liildrcn, jind their pack animals laden down with furs and meat. I was informed hy Vic- tor, head chief of the FLithead nation, an Indian whose valor and courtesy and truth have become classic in tlio pages of the Jesuit Missionary de Smet — by Victor, wlio at seventy-five is still the leader of his people in war, and first in the chase of the bufialo, that since the memory of the Indian, they had passed these mountains year after year through the winter months. Tliat same winter, the party that crossed the Rocky mountains in January, went down Clark's Fork in February; they went on horseback, the sole trouble being that there were some places where the snow was deep enougli to cover up the grass; but in these cases it was in the wooded portions, and 2i feet was the greatest depth . When they left the wooded region where it was 2^ feet deep, and came to the prairie region, they found that it was but a foot deep. Every gentleman knows what influ- ence forests have in preserving the depth of the snow, and how it disappears when the land is cleared. The question is not what depth the snow is in the forests, but what it will be on the cleared land. There is one point alone about which we have not sufiicient information, and that is, the crossing of the Cascade mountains to Puget's sound; but I am satisfied that there will be no serious obstruction from snow. The snow was but six feet, for a short distance, in the latter part of January, 1856, and I am of opinion that it did not subsequently increase much in depth, tliough this fact has not been determined by actual ad- easurement. At Fort Benton and Fort Campbell, ever since they were established some twenty -five years since, the fur companies have taken their goods to their winter trading posts, on the Milk and Marias rivers, in wagons, there not being snow enough for sleds. Will the snows of this route, which do not prevent the Indians from travel- i '. V, liiii;, I'uriiish any dilliiUilUes whicli will roudcr it imii.sually troublesome I'or tlie passage of railroad cars? I will now consider tlie question of the cold. It is al- leged, that the weather is so cold on the route of the 47th parnllel, that it will be impracticable to work men in the construction of the road for a large portion of the year, and that it will bo impracticable to run cars for many days in the winter. Unfortunately for these opinions, we liappen to have observations on these points, and to have great lines of railroatl in operation over tracts of country as cold, and even colder than the route from Fort Benton to the shores of the Pacific. The mean winter temperature at Fort Ben- ton in '53-'54: was 25°. 88, above zero. The average at Montreal, en the Grand Trunk railroad, for the same year, was 13°. 22, and for a mean of ten years 17°. 80, above zero. At Quebec it was, in '53-'54, 11°. 03, above zero, and for a mean of 10 years 13°. 30, above zero. On the great Kus- sian railroad, from St. Petersburg to Moscow, the compari- son is very similar. The mean winter temperature for a series of twenty-one years at Moscow is 15°. 20, and at St. Petersburg, for a mean of twenty-five years, 18°. 10, above zero. At Fort Snelling, on the great lines through Minnesota from St. Paul to Pembina, and from St. Paul to Brecken- ridge, now^ actually in process of construction, the mean winter temperature of '53-'54 was 11°. 64, and the mean of thirty-five winters 16°. 10, above zero. Thus in the winter of '53-'54, an unusually cold winter, Fort Benton was 12° warmer than Montreal, 14° warmer than Quebec, 14° warmer than Fort Snelling, 10° warmer than Moscow, and 7° warmer than St. Petersburg,. Looking to the Bitter Root valley, we find its average temperature in the winter of '53-'54 to be 24°. 90, and in '54-'55, 30°. 30 above zero, making it for the two winters respectively 10° and 15° warmer than at Moscow, and 7° and 12° warmei* than at St. t 17 Petersburg. In I85ii '4 it was 12"^ warmer than at Mon- treal, and 14° warmer than at Quebec. But ] will not content myself with giving you the average winter temper- atures: let us consider the greafcer.c cold observed. The greatest cold in the winter of '53-'54 was 29° below zero at Cantonment Stevens. At Fort Snelling it was 3G°, at Montreal 34°, and at Que])ec 29°, below zero, from which you will see, that on this route, the greatest cold is not equal to the greatest cold on the route of the Grand Trunk rail- road of Canada. Tlie same fact is unquestionably true of the great artery of Kussia from Moscow to St. Petersburg, but I have not been able to obtain the daily observations for purposes of comparison. We will look at it in another point of view. Take tlie number of cold days when the av- erage temperature was below zero. The PA'erage tempera- ture was below zero twelve days at Fort Benton, ten days at Cantonment Stevens, eighteen days at Fort Snelling^ eigh- teen days at Montreal, and twenty-three days at Quebec. Thus you will see that tliere were more cold days on the line of the Great Trunk railroad, and of tlie roads in Min- nesota, than on this northern route. Having compared the average winter temperatures, and the number of cold days, let us look at tlie climate in another point of view. Take the number of warm days when the average temper- ature was above the freezing point, and I find that at Fort Benton the thermometer was forty-three out of ninety days, and at Cantonment Stevens thirty-two out of ninety days above the freezing point, against only six days out of ninety at Fort Snelling, five days out of ninety at Quebec, eight days out of ninety at Montreal, and eighteen days out of ninety at Albany — all in the winter of 1853-'54. But it may be objected, that the temperature of Fort Ben- ton and Cantonment Stevens is not the measure of the temperature of the intermediate rocky range through which the route passes, and which must be much lower. B^ortu- nately the partv of Lieut. Grover, which has been already 3 18 referred to in connection with the depth of snow, made ob- servations of temperature on the route, and it has been found by careful comparison that the party made the pas- sage during the extreme cold weather of that winter, and the temperatures observed, therefore, indicate tlie extremest cold of the pass, and not the usual cold. A very intelligent young man who accoroT)anied Lieut. Clrover to Fort Owen returned immediately, and found the weather very mild and pleasant in the pass, corresponding to the observed temper- atures at Fort Benton and Cantonment Stevens. The mean temperature in the pass from January 12th to January 23d, 12 days, was 10° ,!„-, below zero. At Cantonment Ste- vens the mean temperature was 5°. 2, below zero; at Fort Benton 7°. 3, below zero. The greatest mean cold of any day observed in the pass was 22°, below zero, against 24° at Fort Snelling, and a still lower figure at Pembina. That the winter of '53-'54 was unusually cold in the moun- tain region of the northern route, is shown in the fact that, in the Bitter Root valley, the thermometer never went down to zero in the winter of '54-'55, whilst it fell as low as 29° below zero in the winter of '53-' 54. The average mean temperature of this valley in the winter of '53-'54 was 24°. 90, whereas in '54-'55 it was 30°. 30. The same general result, determined by observation, as regards the tempera- ture of the pass, would be arrived at by using the formula, that every 1,000 feet in altitude would depress the tempera- ture three degrees. Now only six miles of the pass is more than 5,000 feet above the sea, the greatest altitude being but 6,044 feet, and the average height of the pass is but about 4,000 feet. The pass, considering simply 165 miles of the distance, where the altitude exceeds three thousand feet, will be only from one to ten degrees colder than Fort Benton, and except the six miles above mentioned only from one to seven degrees colder. Gentlemen, it seems to me that these facts, drawn from official records, every one of them entirely reliable, ought 1!) V to settle forever the question which has been raised preju- dicial to this route, that it will be obstructed by snow and cold weather. So successful has been the great rail- road from Moscow to St. Petersburg, that they are now pushing railroads in all directions, running* them into regions truly Siberian, crossing tracts where for three months the thermometer never rises above zero, and for many days the temperature is lower than the greatest cold ever reached in the mountains of the United States. We find that Canadian roads are being extended westward utterly regardless of those objections, experience having shown their futility. I have lived in the snow State of Maine, and am familiar with lumbering operations on the Kennebec and the Penobscot, where timber is cut, roads are opened, and logs hauled to the streams to have them in readiness for the freshets of spring, in snow four to six feet deep. We have a body of railroad engineers and contractors who have gained their professional and practical knowledge in these snow regions, and who know that the obstacles which have been apprehended from snow have all disappeared in the light of experience. It is not the snow of your mountains in the interior, even if it should reach a depth of from six to eight feet, that will be an obstruction to the passage of cars, for by raising yc .v road- bed and using the plough you can throw it off Avithout diffi- culty. The snow comes not in single falls, but in succes- sive falls, and there will be no difficulty in keeping the track clear. On the seaboard, the snow when followed by rain, and the weather suddenly turns cold, freezing the sleet to the rail, may and does sometimes furnish an ob- struction, that may require days to overcome. If I were asked, where I should expect the most difficulty Irom snow in the whole country, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, I should say the first ten miles from the Atlantic ports. 1 cannot say this for the Pacific ports, for there snow is sel- dom seen, and when it does fall it disappears in a short 1 20 time. I Hhall therotbre a«Hiiriie tluit tliis route is entirely practicable so I'ar as regards cold ami snow, and will pass on to a more detailed view of its characteristics and its re- lation to other routes. I will })resent it as a good route for emigrants hy the ordinary conveyances of the country. The distance from St. Paul's and the western end of Lake Superior to the sliores of I'uget's sound, is in round numbers eighteen hundred miles. Will the difficulties which 1 have presented in tiieway of a railroad, interfere with the carry- ing of the mails and the transportation of passengers the entire year on this route? I think not. 1 think that not only ought the mails to be ciirried over tliis route the entire year, but in a limited number of days. Tiie service ought to be rendered on this road in wagons in eighteen days, whicii Avould be only one hundred miles a day. Russia, in the matter of her enterprises for carrying the mails, is ahead of any other PoAver in the world, and she can give us lessons, that it will be well for us to profit by. Our consul at the Amoor, Mr. Collins, has given us the facts of the great postal service of Russia from Moscow to Irkoutsk, in eastern Siberia. The distance is not eigliteen hundred, but three thousand four hundred and twenty-six miles. On this route are established two hundred and f n stations, with a postmaster and the necessary relays ot horses at each station. The contractors are obliged to carry the mails twice a week, and they are also obliged to trans- port passengers over the route at certain rates of travel, to wit: at eight miles an hour in winter, six and two-thirds in summer, and five and one-third in the fall. The time re- quired to carry the mails over the entire route, is from twenty-five to thirty days, a distance on the average of from one hundred and twelve to one hundred and thirty-seven miles per day, while the government couriers go over th route in from fifteen to twenty days, or at an average of from 1*71 to 228 miles per day. That mail route is between the 52d and 58th parallels, crofjses considerable mountain chains, 21 and the tlicriiioint'tci' in wiiittT, on u large portion of it, is habitually helow zero. At Moscow, the eastern terminus of the route, the average of the thermometer is 15°, and at Tobolsk 'J.'^ above zero, while at Tomsk it is 2°, and at Irkoutsk l'^ below zero. Tim average temperatures for January, for the three latter places, were respectively 3*^, ')", and G" below zero. Mr. (.ollins himself travelled over the entire route in winter and early spring, uiaking such rates of travel as these. Tie travelled from Vercli-neo-dinsk toChetab, oOO miles, in forty-five bours; from Irkoutsk to Kvachta, li<)7 miles, in fortv-eii-'lit bours. ]3ut he mentions another fact more significant still. On this distance of 3,4li() miles, between tlie parallels of 52 and 58, the thermometer on a large portion it, tbrougb the winter, below zero, he found five hundred cities, and villages, and towns, siiowing conclusivelv that the extreme cold ])resented no diJHcultv in the way of the occupation of the country. This lias all been done by imperial edicts, acting on a nation of serfs, done simply in obedience to the idea of reverence for au- thority. What will not the genius and enterprise of freemen and citizens do on any of our overland routes, when the government comes forward and establishes its mail service, when the contractor is not hampered by petty and exact- ing restrictions, and our people are left free, each man to carve out his fortunes and his home. The Czar ol" Russia establishes his route, and in part builds up his towns and villages and cities with his prisoners of State and the refuse of his jails, whereas in our case it will be the very flower and substance of our people, who will apply the energies of freemen and of sovereigns to the building up of our routes. I therefore have a right to assume, in the light of the experience of the great mail service of Si- beria, that there will be no difficulty on our, comparatively speaking, much milder and shorter route. Let us look, however, to existing routes within the limits of the United States. The cold on the route from St. Paul's oo to liii CroHsu is jrrcater than in the Rocky mountuin region oi the nortlieru route, and yet from 8t. raiil's to La Crosse the mails will be carried this winter, a distance of nearly two hundred miles, in forty-eight hours. For the last twelve vears, the mails have been carried from Ht. Paul's to Pem- bina, witliout, in any case, a failure to carry them in the prescribed time. The pioneers of Minnesota and the Northwest find no diffi- culty in encountering the cold and attending to their out- door business, and they are satisfied that the mails can be carricil in that region, and passengers transported as rapidly as in the Piussian service. When we meet such men, admitted to be men of expe- rience, integrity, and capacity, and who from unpromising and uncertain beginnings have carved out fortune and re- putation, let us accept the results of their experience and observation, ratlier than the speculations of the closet and the systems of the schools. 1 now come specifically to the discussion of this northern route, and 1 will compare it, with all the candor and fair- ness 1 am able, with other proposed routes, and endeavor to show, from statistics, how much entitled it is to national consideration. llailroad lines have frequently been presented by way of antagonism to water lines. Now each has its part in the economical transportation of passengers and freight; rail- roads cannot do away with canals, nor canals with rail- roads. We find, that with the extension of our great rail- road system, the canal system has also been extended in an equal proportion. New York has built her great lines of railroads, and slie has also enlarged her Erie canal. The Canadas have built their Great Trunk and Western roads, and now new pro- jects are presented for shortening the water communication from Lake Huron to the waters of the St. Lawrence. We find that the cost of transporting goods on great water f i »»•! lineH Ih viiHtly h'ss per mile, tlmii the lost ul" truiisportiin' goods oil railrnjul lines. In a ]ai'«.,^(' ocean voyage tlio rate is, j)er]iaps, one and a lialf mills per ton per mile; on n great navigable river, or great canal, the amount increases to two and a lialf mills per ton per mile; wliereas there is no railroad line, Iniilt at liome or abroad, wliere the cost of transportation will be materially less than five mills })er mile, and it will vary, according to the grade of the road, from five to twenty-odd mills i)er mile. Thus you will ob- serve, that on the great water lines, the ocean, the Missis- sippi, the great lakes and the New York canals, the cost of transportation is but a fraction, seldom exceeding one-half, and not often one-quarter, the cost on the railroad; and hence, even in the case jf water lines closed by ice nearly half the year, they will carry the heavy and ])ulky com- modities, as grain, coal, and machinery; the railroads car- rying the light, perishable and costly articles, where time becomes an im})ortant element in the cost. If a railroad communication be an inseparable connecting-link between great water lines, it is entitled to special consideration. Such is the proposed railroad on this northern route. It connects the navigable waters of the Missouri with the navigable waters of the Columbia, and at the head of steamboat navigation. It connects Puget's sound and tlie Columbia valley with the head of navigation of the great 8t. Lawrence basin, and with the heads of navigation of the Mississippi and the Eed river of the north. It is the shortest equated railroad line across the continent, whether the eastern terminus be on the western border of the States or on the Mississippi, or, in the case of the northern route, on Lake Superior; and it is much the shortest lin- eally of all the roads, except those from San Diego and San Pedro, on the route of the 32d parallel. In connection with either the great lakes and its system of canals and rivers, or the great railroad lines of the Can- adas and the United States, it furnishes the most direct and clit'upest route.' (Hi the t-oiitinent tor IVoiglits and pasHeii^cTH from Asia to Eiirojje and back again, and also between Asia and the people of our iS'orthwest, our West, our centre, oiir East, and tlie great seats of commerce on the Atlantic coast. The lineal distances on the route of the 32d parallel to the Mississii)pi are 1,748 and l,G8o, against 1.747 and 1,764, the lineal distances of Vancouver and Seattle from St. Paul's, and against l,73i)and 1,750, the lineal distances of Vancouver and Seattle from Superior C'ity; and starting from tlie western border of the States, tlie lineal distances on the route of the 82d parallel are 1,598 and 1,533 miles, against 1,527 and 1,546 miles, the lineal distances from Breckenridge to Vancouver and Seattle. The foUoAving table is from official reports, wherein I have shown the distances on an air-line between the termini of the several explored j)racticable railroad lines across the continent, the lineal distances, the sums of ascents and descents, the equated distances in miles, the estimated cost, the extent of cultivable country, *^he extent of country which is less than 1,000 feet above the sea, the extent of country which lies between 1,000 and 2,000 feet above the sea, the extent of country between 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the sea, the extent of country between 3,000 and 4^,000 feet above the sea, the extent of country between 4,000 and 5,000 feet above the sea, the extent of country between 5,000 and 6,000 feet above the sea, the extent of country between 6,000, and 9,000 feet above the sea, and the summit of the highest pass on each route for the routes of the 47th parallel, 42d parallel, 35th parallel, and 32d parallel. ^ 25 1 '^ "t«> i;! •pj .1 ^ ^ Ot) 50 •S ^ o 9> !? -rS '^ s-a "« C) ^ '^ <% c •sj o s o «0 —JO UOl^tJAOlO UV }VI [OUUUJ, •8}noj 31^ uo juiod IsaqSiq 9i{\ jo vds aq; OAoq'B apn^xi^y t^ a o 'ooo'e puB ooo'o •OOO'O poB 000'2 f •000 'S puBOOO't ■ooo'f' puw 000 'e o V •000 'f put? 000 's r-t 33 c 3 S- !- •OOO'S pa» 000' I •OOO'l puB •SB8JB iiBius ui punoj Suiaq lios aiqwjT? 'oiqBAiJinoun A'ni?J3U93 puB[ qSnojq; 3;noj jo saiioi jo aaquinx •A.i}uno;) aiqBAi^ino qSnojqi ojnoa jo saijiu jo jaqninx ■so^noa jiidjojipjo jsoo SAijtjjudraoo "osuodxo 3u!>iaoAV iBnba jo a^noj lOAaj jo m3uaq ■sjuoDsap puT? sjaaosB JO uing o CO o o CO 1— M M ■* O O o r—i 00 r- •9jno.r pBOj[iBj posodoaci A*q aouu^siQ i£ O •auji-jiB iCq aDUBjsiQ -53 c (-> e3 C O) « el g a-rc o CO CO 00 I- CO o Ct7 o CO 00 00 I*" a t CO O M 1— 00 CO f-H ^ o ♦J ■*^ ^ bo c4 a J M CO 9—* rH o o o icT o ?' 00 F— ( CO -^ m CO 00 i^ a 00 lO r^ rH cf o CO © o oTS* .1 - 01 ^2 CI (M M-i pq •- ' o "* S rt iJ2 OS § OS ► 26 r3 o O —JO uoi)8Ai»[t) U8 \v (anunj, •3;noj aq; uo ;u|0fl isaqJJiq aqi JO vas aq; a.voqB apn;ijiv o o o m >n 1— a o ■f eJ 1 i a> o 4J a a ^ •° ^ no B £3 abo a •000 6 pu«000'9 •OOO'OPUWOOO'S 00 o o o ^00'r, •OOO'l puB o o c^ "in" 00 m 'SBaJv iiBius ui punoj Saiaq |ios ajqiJJB 'aiqwAt^nD -mi A[it?"jDuag putq qSnojq; a;noj jo sajn" J^^ jaqutnNj o o CO o o o C-1 CO "To' CO o o o CO CO o o 01 CO o o C5 'jf.UunoD aiqcAijino qSnoaq) a^noj JO sajuu jo JaquIn^^J O CI CO 00 00 o X— CO •saiuoj ;uajaj}ip JO jsoo aAiivavdraog o o o o o o^ cT C5 o o cT o © o o o o" o o od" o o o o~ o o otT o 'asuadxa Sui^ijoav jBnba JO a^noj jOAai jo q^Sua-^ in o co" 1— •s^uaosap pnu sjuaosw jo umg 'o^noj pBOJiiBJ pasodojd Xq aouBiSTQ c» in 00 CI o .<» od" o o CI ocT 01 00 o o CO CO CO o o o CJ 00 "^ 00 CO CI O CO O lO uo CI >— I 1— t 'auii-JiB Aq aauB^siQ O m m o o CO o o CO o CO -^ o CO ^"C r-'-a SCO :St^ 2 o c4 S5 "^^ Ch CO "'•' coco •4J iis !-s i r^ ■1* 5 o O -J CO o O " 6 i -^ V -J --J 'O p— aj O^OJcgCQ »- CO Q f^ « o CI 5 fl ^ . 5 3 3 27 1 have assumed as the startiug point of the northern route, for the purpose of this comparison, Breckenridge, on the western border of the State of Minnesota, a point which is a terminus of a road now actually under construction by aid of the land grants of the government. The following table makes the eastern termini at Supe- rior City and St. Paul's, and of the other routes, on tho Mississippi river : *, i 28 '^ K Co •I s o o to c S) 0> er, 00 Si o •asuddxo SnxTjjoM. [Bnba jo ainoj pA3[ JO qjSudi Tfi 1:- GO rH C5 «D i— GO i—i O I— t O •N rs •> (M (M (M (M CO 00 •sjuoosap puw s}uaDsu JO lung lO «.« li- OS J^- GO i-i es T— ( r-t c^j CO CO CO •N #^ #N •> •\ CO CO (M (M cq jb-t- t-^-. oo 00 00 00 t- 10 J::- 10 (M CM 00 CO Ci 05 CO 00 o O rH Ttl »0 CO O CO CO CO ^ #s •% GO O CO CO CO CO ■oaii p«oj[iijj pasoclojd A"q soaBjsiQ O CO -TtH Jt- iO CO O '<:f C5 CD O to CS CO o '^ 'X CO 1-- "^i 00 -^ b- CO •". •% p^ O-l f— I T-H o o o c OD K^ -M O ?3 o a o o > ce o -^ S rt i=! ^ ^ ^ O O 3 :3 CCCC' o J£ a: r, ^ " ^ '^ "rt S ^ t- -3 rt rt i; s;-i 02 s :3 tJ- T3 ^ S <^1 '** - rt j^ o c3 rt j: ^ C^ '-S i^ i> o g i^ o d o Jl o o o o '^ uo CO c3 ° o OS c ^ '••' • ^^ o o "^ c '-' - a: ^-< ^ O .- ^ o 3 p p ^ "13 . . , - CO CO i^ CO CO t- f- 5 ^ c3 ce p c3 ri "5 o o c 2 a 02 .-H C "n* a C^ c S n Ih .ti C !*- O OJ en S-i ^'o 5 =s g 3 d o o o o ^ I C£ Cflas S5ft2 29 If I am met witli the objection that the Arkansas, Missis- sippi and Missouri are navigable, and that the routes on the 42d, 35th and 32d parallels should be stopped short at navigable waters, then, for purposes of comparison, I say very well, we will stop the northern road at Fort Benton, at the head of steamboat navigation of the ^Mississippi, which will give a result vastly in its favor. 1 am of opinion, however, that the Mississippi valley and the great lakes is the proper eastern base. Thus we find — the western terminus of the routes of the 42d, 35th and 3 2d parallels, being San Francisco — that the lineal length of the northen route is 549 miles shorter than that of the 42d parallel, 616 miles shorter than that of the 35th parallel, 424 miles shorter than that of the 32d parallel; and that, as regards the equated distances, the northern line is 689 miles shorter than the line of the 42d parallel, 1,121 miles shorter than the line of the 35th parallel, and 733 miles shorter than the line of the 32d parallel. But, looking to tlie eastern terminus, where are you when you reach the Mississippi on the route of the 42d, 35th and 32d parallels? You are on a great navigable river, from which you can supply the Mississippi valley; but how will you reach New York, Chicago, Portland, Boston, Philadelphia and Baltimore ? Will you tranship on the Mississippi, and take your winding course by the Gulf of Mexico, or take the rail, and seek some of the intermediate water lines which stretch along the whole distance ? Will you make use of the Ohio, and the railroads and canals of New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia? On the northern route we are on navigable waters; we are now ready to enter our ships and go to Europe, or to New York; or, arrived at Montreal, we can pass by rail to Port- land. If we compare Chicago as a great lake port with Superior City, its distance from Puget's sound on the northern route ^ia St. Paul's, is 317 miles shorter than its distance from Benicia via South pass. 30 TJie lineal distances from Seattle via Northern route, via St. Paul's, and from Benicia via South Pass, via Council Bluffs, via St. Louis, to these several ports of the Atlantic and Gulf coast, will be as follows: ■'«..'• Seattle, via ; Benicia, via yt. Paul. \ yt. Louis. Portland Boston ISew York t*hiladelphia . Baltimore Washington.. Charleston . . . . Savannah Mobile New Orleans. Averages. 3,249 3,352 3,126 2,988 2,966 3,004 3,328 3,313 3,030 3,115 3,831 3,696 3,546 3,454 3.355 3,375 3,445 3,430 3,147 3,232 3,131.1 3,453.1 Differences in favor of Nor'n route. 582 344 420 466 389 371 117 117 117 117 •V The distance from Beuicia to St. Louis is 2,482 miles. Thus the average distance from Seattle, via St. Paul'?;, to the principal ports of the Atlantic and gulf, is 316 miles less than the average from Benicia via St. Louis to the game points. This saving of distance via St. Paul's ranges from 117 miles, as in the case of New Orleans, to 582 miles, as in the case of Portland. U the equated distances were used, it would make an additional difference in favor of the northern route of 137 miles. Thus every 6eat of commerce on the coast is nearer to Puget's sound by the northern route, than to the waters of San Francisco by the central route. See Appendix for the lines in detail. I am, however, of the opinion that no single line of rail- road is the proper American solution of the problem of continental communication. i' The r- thern route should not alone be patronized by the government. The mail service now in operation, and about to be put in operation, indicates three lines which i ■41 na oil tic I in S 'V to 68 be es 32 les or of lie lie il- of id 3h fihoulil share the patroiiuge of the governmeut; but thene few facts as to distances, and the known relations between water lines and railroad lines, must show you conclusively that on this northern route must pass the great carrying trade from Asia to Europe, and from Europe to Asia; that on this northern route must pass Asiatic supplies for much the largest portion of our own country and the Canadas. It is most emphatically a national route; and if we do not establish it, the British people and government will estab- lish one north of the 49th parallel, and then we shall find ourselves in the position of the people, from whose hands had passed the sceptre of Judah. It will be pertinent in connection with this northern route for a Pacific railroad, to refer somewhat in detail to its capacity for settlement. I have had the advantage of going over the difficult and disputed points of this road three times, and have travelled over it at various seasons of the year. The last time I crossed the mountain region was in the months of November and December, 1855; and I am of the opinion, derived from careful, and, I trust, accurate ob- servation of the country — that continuous agricultural set- tlements can be planted nearly the wliole distance along this line. If you will follow me on this map, you will perceive that the continuous line of settlement will extend to beyond James river, in the new Territory of Dacotah. From that point to the entrance to the valley of Mouse river, there are swales and good land from point to point, sufficient to form nuclei for mail stations, at less than fifteen miles apart. In this Mouse River valley there is much cultivable land. In crossing the Grand Couteau du Missouri, you come to an undulating and somewhat broken surface, which fur- nishes tolerable grazing; but for fifty miles, not much laud for settlements. When you come to the Missouri, in the vicinity of Big Muddy river, you find a region for settle- ments, and a large tract of country admirably adapted to all kinds of cereals and vegetable)*. f •'•) oi The Milk River valley, tliroii^-li whicli the route passes, has very tine wheat lands, not simply in its own valleys and those of its tributary streams, but in the adjacent prai- ries. When you reach the Missouri again, you come to bottoms of arable land, with groves of cottonwood, like those of Milk river, of large growth, suitable for fires and building. The various tributaries of the Missouri, in the vicinity of the head of navigation, furnish large quan- tities of arable land. The Marias, Teton, Sun, Dearborn, High Wood, Smith's, Judith, and other streams are all well adapted to settle- ment. In the .summer of 1854, explorations were made from Fort Benton along the eastern base of the Rocky moun- tains ; and where you see this summer isothermal line, there are rich farming lands. Inspect this line, and you will find it sixty degrees above zero ; and there is nothing in the summer temperature which will interfere with crops. Recollect that there are no chilling blasts from May to Oc- tober, to blight tlie promised harvest ; and here let me say, that when Lieut. Mullan passed this Divide (Mullan's pass) in March, from Fort Benton, he found no snow in the pass or along the route. I will therefore say, in round numbers, that from Breckenridge, on the Red river of the north, to the Divide of the Rocky mountains, the route passes through strictly a cultivable country, capable of con- tinuous settlement, except for about 150 miles, in three several sections of about equal lengths ; on this j^ortion you can plant agricultural settlements, at points sufficient for railroad or mail stations. From near the Divide of the Rocky mountains, the country is capable of continuous settlement to within twenty miles of the Divide of the Bitter Root mountains ; the eastern half of the great plain of the Colum- bia, the northern and the southern portions, consist of rich river valleys and fertile table-lands. A portion of the west- ern half will not furnish arable land for continuous settle- ; ' '6'6 I iiieiits. Between the l'ttliiinl»i;i and tlic Ca«eiirogress, as well as of war. But, sir. an engineer in pre- senting his programme considers simi)ly the engineering difficulties. It is for presidents, and directors, and compa- nies, to raise the money. British Columbia is attracting the attention of this coun- try, and of Europe, and of course a movement will be made to roach that country by great lines north of our parallel. I have been thankful for this for two reasons: One, that it r<'d(uinis the northern route from the reproach of being " 37 the Siberian trail, and makes it a central route with regard to the water line of the great lakes; and also, because I think the occupation of that country to the north of us, will cause our ])rogresH to be accelerated. I desire, from reliable statistics, to give some data IVom wiiich to draw compari- sons between our nortliern route and the routes still further north. Before doing this, however, I wish to state in the most explicit manner, that in my judgment, there is a vast gold region in the northwest portion of our continent. Gold is not found simply in British Columbia, but for a long distance south of our parallel, and extensive and re- munerative diggings have been discovered in Washington Territory. The gold regions of Washington extend through the Cascade mountains, nortli of the Columbia, and thence eastward along Clark's fork and the Kootenay river, to near the llocky mountains. Geologists have passed over the ground, and confirm the rejmrts of the miners, as to the presence of gold throughout tliis vast region. We have the evidence of officers of the army and Indian service, and of reliable citizens, as to paying localities. In 1855, rich paying deposits were actually worked on Clark's fork, on the tributaries fiov/ing into the Columbia, from both its eastern and western shores. In 1855, a great movement from Oregon and Washington was directed to those mines. A thousand men were on the road, when the Indian war broke out, and prevented their generally reaching the mines; but through the labors of the few who got to and worked the mines in 1855, we became possessed ot the in- formation. It is due to American citizens, that America and Great Britain became possessed of reliable information as to the gold of British Columbia. Had our Indian war been brought to a close in 1856, as it would have been, if the same uncompromising and stern measures had been taken as were taken last summer, the wealth of Wash- ington, its gold, its platina, and lead, and silver, and cop- per, and quicksilver, would have been known to the world. S8 i\ I I I' ;. .'II •.■I' ,..,, ii!.:> If you will read the most interesting narrative of Dr. Per- kins, who came near losing- his life amongst tlie Indians, and who prospected on Clark's fork last July and August, you will see Avhy our people have not hitherto been able to work the mines, ricli though they be. The reverend Fatlier De Hmet, who went through Oregon as a missionary of the Christian faith, who is reverenced by Indians and by the white man, has, in his book, shown how rich tlic countrv is in mineral weaLth. In conversa- tion with his friends, he has dwelt particularly on the rich- ness of its mines in gold. You are familiar with the char- acter, experience, and great attainments of these Jesuit fathers, and know that reliance can be placed on their statements, in reference to tlie capabilities and resources of a country, which they have examined. Therefore, in making the comparison between the north- ern route and others still further north, looking to the gold region, I wish you to bear in mind that the northern line leads you directly to it, as well as the lines north of the 49th parallel. The distance from St. Paul's, via tlie northern route, to Colville, is 1,572 miles; and thence to thcforls of Frazer's and Thompson's rivers is 290 miles more, making 1,862 altogether. In regard to the land route to the Saskatcliawan, from St. Paul's via Fort Garry, Fort Edmonton, and Ihc Koo- tenay pass to Colville, we have the narrative of Sir Geo. Simpson, Avho gives a graphic account of the country and the estimated distances. He cstinvites the distance from Fort Garry to Colville to be nearly 2,000 miles, but his own more specific statement of time and rates of travellinir per day, .n.xkes it about 1,800 miles. The distance from St. Paul's to Fort Garry, is given in a recent report of sur- veys of the Red River country, made under the autl-ority of the Canadian government, at 558 miles; from Fort Garry to Edmonton 1,00{> miles; and from Edmonton to Colville i :!9 800 miles; niukini;' a total of 2, ;};■)« inilcs, uguinst l,')!'! by :ther: ' route, to Colville. 8ir George Simpson, how- ever, made Edmonton a point of his route, in consequence of its being one of tlie great trading posts, that he desired to visit. A land route can unquestionably be laid two hundred miles shorter, by the south branch of the Saskatch- awan. To bo within limits, we wdll allow 300 miles for the Edmonton detour, which will give 2,058 miles by the Kootenay pass, against 1,5-72 miles by the northern route. If your object, however^ is to reach the waters of Thomp- son's or Frazer's river, then you must make Fort Edmon- ton a point in your journey. The route then is to the Athabasca river, 100 miles by land, then up this river 150 miles, which you can ascend in boats; but it wnll probably, to avoid transhipment, be better to go by land; thence across the mountains by the Athabasca portage 1 00 miles to the boat encampment on the main Columbia — in all 350 miles from Edmonton. From the boat encampment, it is about seventy-live miles to the headwaters of Thompson's river, and one hundred and twenty-five miles to the headwaters of Frazer's river by the canoe tributary of the Columbia. Thus, from St. Paul's to the headwaters of Thompson's river, tlie distance v/ill be by land 1,983 miles, and to the lieadTvaters of Frazer's river 2,033 miles. But your are on the waters of rivers unfit for navigation; for, from care- ful examination of narratives, I find tha'. Thompson's river is never used, and Frazer's river rarely. It is only the lower portion of Frazer's river that can Ic used for a distance of one hundred and twenty miles. From the head of Thompson's river to its junction with Frazer's river, known ?« the Forks, the distance is 200 miles, and from the headwaters of Frazer's river to the same point, 450 miles; thus making the entire distance to the forks of Frazer's and Thompson's rivers, 2,183 or 2,483 miles, according as you follow down Thompson's oi- Fra- zer s river. Ill > I Now lot u(s exaiiiiiic tliu Kooteiuiy, and Atluibasca piisscw, ,'111(1 cornparo tluMu witli tlie jtasses on tlic northern route. On the passes of the mountain range, in the vicinity of the Missouri, no snow is to bo seen, exce])t during the hite fall and winter months. In several of the passes, snow does not fa.U to a suflicient depth to seriously interfere ^v ith tlie travelling of animals. On the northern Little Jila'.sk- ioot pass, there was no snow in the latter part of March, iS,")4. Tiic height of the Divides of Cadot's and the north- ern Little JUackfoot pass is but about 0,000 feet above the sea. From Fort Benton by Cadot's pass to the Pacific, but six miles of the country is 5,000 or more feet above the sea, and but fifty-one miles is between 4,000 and 5.000 feet. Pack-animals can cross all tlieso jiasses and tlirough the mountains, making fifty miles per day, and expresses one hundrea6'6' to Colville, and forks of Thomp- son's and Frazer's rivers. St. Louis to St. Joseph 480 miles. St. Joseph to New Fort Walla- Walla 1,730 " New Fort Walla- Walla to Colville 180 " Colville to forks Thompson's and Frazer's rivers. -^0^ or 480 miles by water, and 2,200 by land. St. Louis by Northern pass to Seattle. St. Louis to Fort Benton •..•• 2,415 miles. Fort Benton to Seattle • 720 '' St. Louis by South pass to Seattle. St. Louis to St. Joseph 480 miles. St. Joseph to old Fort Walla- Walla 1,755 " Old Fort Walla-Walla to Seattle 240 '' or 480 miles by water, and 1,999 by land. But it is practicable to follow the route of Clark's fork to Colville, and make use of a reach of its navigable waters. ,^ I I 11 " ' 'I 'I • '■I ( 46 The river from Horse Plain to below the Peiid d' Oreille lake, is navigable by boats and steamers. Recollect that here we have those rich gold mines to which I have referred. The distances from Fort Benton to Colville, by the route of Clark's fork, arc as follows: Fort Benton to Horse Plain, by cut- off from Blackfoot valley to the Jocko tributary of Clark's fork... 270| mile« by land. Thence down Clark's fork to old Pend d' Oreille mission 195 '* by water. Thence by land to Colville 60 ' * by land. or 330^ miles by land, and 195 by water. Steamers drawing from twenty to twenty-four inches of water, can run on a reach of eighty miles of this distance in low water, and a much longer portion of it in high water. There are two short portages on the remaining portion of the distance at low water. I hr , e probably gone into this (question of comparative distances at this time with sufficient detail. I wish now to make a few remarks as to the practicability of railroad routes north of the 49th parallel. If you will look at the map, you will see that Seattle is the easternmost point, of all the harbors of that system of waters in American and British territory on the northwest, which have an entrance to the ocean by the Straits of San Juan de Fuca; that north of Seattle the coast tends some- what rapidly westward; so that, assuming either St. Paul's or the western end of Lake Superior as the eastern ter- minus, the air-line to any harbor north of Seattle will be longer than an air-line to Seattle. It is obvious also from the inspection of the map, that to reach the base of the llocky mountains, the course must be longer than to reach the base of the mountain by the route of the forty-seventh parallel, for the air-lines are longer, and it is not possible, from the course of the streams, that there is less deflection from a straight line. The very first link from St. Paul's to I 17 J'embina gives a greater northern dellection Ironi 1 he course tlian any by the northern route. The air-line distances from the base of the mountains, in the neighborhood of the Saskatchawan, to any part of British Columbia, will be longer than those from the base of the Kocky mountains, in the forty-seventh and forty- eighth parallels, to Seattle. The following table gives the air-line distances from Su- perior City and St. Paul's to Seattle, on Puget's sound, Van- couver, on the Columbia river. Fort Benton and Pembina ; from Fort Benton, to Seattle and Vancouver; from Edmonton to Pembina, and the mouths of Frazer's and Salmon rivers, in British Columbia. Salmon river was struck by Sir Alexander McKensie, in his trip to the Pacific, in 1793: ' Seattle. Van- couver. Fort Benton. Pembina. Mo. of Fruzer R. Mo. of Salmon R. Superior City. St. Paul's Fort Benton.. Edmonton .... 1,412 1,403 545 1,455 1,435 592 867 859 276 339 767 540 1,176 646 Pembina 1,377 From which we deduce the following facts: The air-line distance from Superior City to Fort Benton, is 867 miles, against 1,043 miles from Superior City, via Pembina, to Edmonton ; from St. Paul to Fort Benton 859 miles, against 1,106 from St. Paul, via Pembina, to Edmonton; and that the air-line distances from Fort Benton, to Seattle and Van- couver are respectively 545 and 592, against 540 and 646 — the air-line distances from Edmonton to the mouths of Frazer's, and Salmon rivers. The air-line distances from Superior City and St. Paul's, via Fort Btnton, to Seattle, are 1,412 and 1,404 miles, against 1,646 and 1,752 miles — the air-line distances from St. Paul's, via Pembina and Edmon- ton, to the mouths of Frazer's and Salmon rivers, and against !i (! ' \' :, . I 48 1,58:5, ami 1,1181) miles, llu' tiir-iiiic diHljiiu'cs Iroiii Si^tcrioi' City, via Pembina and l'](lm(»nton,tot]io inoutlis oi'Krazer's, and Salmon rivers. Thus, tlie air-lino distances from >St. Panl's and Superior City to the Pacific, arc from 171 to 348 miles shorter by the route of the 47th paiallel, tlian by the routes through P>ritis]i Columbia and the Saskatchawan. Consider the course of the rivers on the route of the forty-seventh and forty-eighth parallels. Look at the Missouri and Clark's fork, look at the general course of the Spokane, Bitter Root, and St. Regis de Borgia rivers, and see how, by careful ex})loration, a nearly due cast and west connection has been made, between the Flathead (;ountry and the great plain of the Columbia. This interior plain enables us to lay a co^'\. .ratively straight line across it, from the mountain region of tlie Bitter Koot, to tlie Cascade mountains. Can it be so in British Columbia? Tlio streams run nearly north and south, and are separated by high mountain spurs. If use is made of the Kootenay pass, then the route must either go south of the 4yth parallel, or it must cross the dividing ridge between the Kootenay and the main Columbia, giving one morr Ahju It) tlh»sc ot'diir wcslmi roast; IVuni which it will bo fieen, that Seattle's Jivcu'iige distance from the ports of Asia is twenty-five miles less than Vancouver's, sixty-three miles less than San Francisco, 368 miles less than San Diego, and sixty-five miles less than Mazatlan. As regards the four ports, tlie mouth of the Amoor, Shang- hae, Canton, and Calcutta, the average (listan(;eH are re- spectively 54, 206, 532, 1,212 miles h-ss tlian to the other ports. "[■ I o From Amoor From Shanghae... From Canton From Calcutta From Melbourne.. From Sandwich Is Average distances. 3,850 5,140 5,900 8,730 7,280 2,380 5,542 2 •>. cv lb y. ;: I H 3,895 5,215 5,975 8,805 7,205 2,305 4,110 5,430 6,140 8,970 6,930 2,050 5,567 5.605 4,520 5,830 6.550 9,380 6,990 2,190 5.390 6,700 7,380 10,210 7,125 2,835 5,910 6,607 If we look to European connections, the following table gives the distances from Liverpool, Havre, and Bremen, to Halifax, St. John's, Portland, Boston, and New York: To Halifax. To St. .John's. To Port- land. To To New Boston. York. From Liverpool ' ' Havre 2,430 2,540 3,080 1,960 2,070 2,610 2,750 2,860 3,400 2,800 2,910 3,450 2,970 3,080 '' Bremen 3,620 There is a scheme on foot of a railroad communication from both Halifax and St. John's to Quebec. The distance 7 Hi 4 ') li.l •111 11 !!•'■ 5(1 I'roiu Uiililiix lo (^hu'lu'c will lie iVMS miles, uiid iVoru JMoii- treal 801) miles, and from St. John's to Quebec about the same distance; making llie entire di.stancc^ by railroad, from Western connections, 511 miles shorter to Porthind tlian to Halit'ax and St. .Fohn's. Tbis great increase of distance cannot compensate for the less ocean distance from the two British posts. Wc thus stand in this strong position; the great water-line of the lakes, and its system of canals and rivers, has the shortest railroad connections with American ports, both on the Pacific and Atlantic coasts; making Tu- get's Sound the great port for all seasons of the year, and Portland the winter port of the Canadas, and the depot for the business wliicli will pass over the rail at all seasons of the year. Mr. President, I did not suppose, when I entered upon tbis subject, that I shouM occupy so mucli time. There are otlier subjects tluit I desire much to dwell upon, in regard to which 1 have made a most careful examination. Since 1 accepted the invitation of your committee to address your society on the subject of the Northwest, I have en- deavored to exhaust all existing information respecting the climate of this great region of country. I will refer for a single moment to the isothermal lines laid doAvn upon this map. In constructing this isothermal map, the curves have not been reduced to the level of the sea, but liave been laid on the natural surface of the ground. They have been de- duced from the observations of temperature brought down to the present time. This method, though not strictly correct, w^ill be near enough for practical purposes. The rolling character of a country will make it impossible to arrive at perfect accuracy in establishing the isothermal curves of the natural s irface. But it is not probable that the error in any case w ill exceed one degree. The altitudes of important points, as the passes of the Rocky, Bitter Root, Cascade, and Sierra Nevada mount- I ■-i II- ho )in an ■TICO wo 51 H...O, iini)ortjuit key puirit.s, sis Fort Uiiioi), Fort 15«.'iitoii, Fort Lurainic, Salt Lake, Cantoiinu'iit StovciiH, of tlio lar<''o valleys and prairies, are laid down. To construct the isothermal chart reduced to tjie level of the sea, the result of observations at a given ]ioint are modified hy the formula that every one tliousaiid ieet in altitude is equivalent to a diflerence of threes decrees in temperature. Thus an increase of tliree degrees for every thousand feet of altitude will, applied to the several ])oints named, furnish data by which the isothermal curves re- duced to the level of the sea can be constructed. Let me call your attention to the remarkable fact, that as you go westward from the Mississippi the climate rapidly becomes milder; that though the Missouri river takes a great course northward, the mean winter temperature of Fort Benton is ten degrees higher than Fort Pierre, though the latter is more than 1,000 feet lower, and three degrees further south than the former. The climate of the western coast, is very similar to that of the western coast of Eu- rope. Examine, Mr. President, for one moment, that country stretching from Wisconsin through Minnesota to the Red river of the North, through which American, and English, and Canadian captalists are now projecting great lines of railroad communication to reach British Columbia. And unless the Congress of the United States can cease its discus- sions, andventure upon action, even our people in the North- west will, in self-defence, have to join hands with the Catia- das, tnat they may have a passage to the Pacific, even though it be on British soil, and cause to grow up a great commercial and controlling British port on the west- ern coast. These facts are full of significance. They should dissipate doubts, and impress us with the importance of rising up to the height of this great argument, and witli faith and steadiness enter upon, and accomplish the woik of binding together the shores of our great oceans. i^^ijtj I I VH! ii;:' A P P E i\ T) 1 X . Ill 'If' The ibllowing tiihh' gives the lines in detail, and on sev- rial routes, as re<^ai'ls some of the most importants ports. Tlic least distance has been in each case taken. SIIOUTKST TJJAVKLLED ROUTES. RAILWAY ROUTES. PortUuid, JIc, to St. FauVs, Jllnnesota. Grand Trunk Railroad- -Portland to Montreal.. 292 miles. Montreal to Toronto... 333 *Toronto to Sarnia 180 Detroit and Mihvuukio llailroad — *Sarnia to Grand Haven 280 Grand Haven steamers — Grand Haven to Mil- waukie 75 La Crosse and Milwaukie liailroad — *Milwaukie to St. Paul's 325 1,485 Pitriland to St. Louis. Portland to Montreal 292 Montreal to Torontc 333 Toronto to Hamiltoi' 38 Hamilton to Windsor 186 Detroit to Lake Station 260 Lake Station to Joliet 45 Jolict to St. Louis \ 245 St. Louis to Portland 1,399 '•Unfinished 53 Neto York to St. Faults, via Hiidsuii liiver llailruad — New York to Albany.. 144 inilus. New York Central — Albany to N. Falls o05 Great Western Canal — N. Falls to Detroit or Windsor 221) iliciiigan Central — Detroit to Chicago 284 Chicago, 8t. Paul's and F. D. L. Railroad — ♦Chicago to St. Paul's 400 1,302 Boa ton to St. Louis, via Chicago. As above — Boston to Chicago 1,018 C/hicago and 8t. Louis — Chicago to St. Louis.. 256 1,204 New York to St. Louis, as above 1,208 Boston to St. Paul's. Western Railway — Boston to Albany 200 As above — Albans to St. Paul's 1,218 1,488 Philadelphia to St. PauVs, via Pennsylvania Central — Philadelphia to Pitts- burg 353 Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chicago — Pittsburg to Chicago 471 Chicago, St. Paul's and F. D. L. — *Chicago to St. Paul's 400 1,224 Baltimore to St. Paul's, via Northern Central — Baltimore to Harrisburg, . . 84 Pennsylvania Central — Harrisburg to Pittsburg. 247 As above— Pittsburg to St. Paul's 871 1,202 Washington to St. Paul's, via Baltimore & Ohio— Washington to Baltimore. 38 Baltimore to St. Paul's... 1,202 1,240 f ;' I ,1 i! li ' Hi'. 51 Philadelphia to Chicago, as above 824 miles. Baltimore to Chicago ' ' 802 Washington to Chicago •' 840 Charleston to St. Louis, via South Carolina Kailroacl and C. — Charleston to Chattanooga 446 M- nphis and Charleston — Chattanooga to Cor- inth 217 Mobile and Ohio — *Corinth to Cairo 175 Illinois Central — Cairo to Sandoval 114 Ohio and Mississippi — Sandoval to St. Louis... 61 1,013 Charleston to St. Paid's, via As above — Charleston to Cairo 838 Illinois Central- Cairo to Dunlieth 45 1 Mississippi River — Dunlieth to St. Paul's 275 1,564 Neiv York to St. Louis via Dunkirk and Indianapolis. New York and Erie Railroad — New York to Dunkirk 469 Lake Shore — Dunkirk to Cleveland 143 Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati — Cleveland Crest li ne 67 Indiana and Bellefontaine — Crest line to In- dianapolis 206 Terre Haute and Richmond — Indianapolis to Terre Haute 73 Terre Haute and St. Louis — Terre Haute to St. Louis 183 1,141 Neio York to St. Louis via Philadelphia. New Jersey Railroad and Transportation Com- pany—New York to Philadelphia 93 Pennsylvania Central— Philadelphia to Pitts- '"•i"g 353 .>i) Olevelaiul and Fittsburji; — rittshiiri'' 1«» \V heel- er ing 03 miles. Central Ohio — Wheeling to Colunbiis 141 Columbus and Xenia — Columbus toXenia.... 55 Indiana Central — Xenia to Indianapolis 124 As above — Indianapolis to St. Louis 256 1,115 Fhiladelphia to St. Louis, as above 1 ,022 New York to St. Louis via Baltimore and Ohio, Marietta and Cincinnati, and Ohio and Mississii)pi llailroad. As above — New York to Philadelphia 1)3 Philadelphia, Wilmington and Baltimore — Philadelphia to Baltimore 98 Baltimore and Ohio — Baltimore to Marietta... 383 Ohio and Mississippi — Cineinnati to St. Louis. 340 1,114 Baltimore to St. Louis, as above 923 Washington '' " 943 Savannah to St. Louis, via Georgia Railroad — Savannah to Chattanooga.. 431 As above — Chattanooga to St. Louis 567 998 Savannah to St. Paul's, as before Savannah to Chicago " Charleston to Chicago '' ,. 1,549 ,. 1,178 ,. 1,193 3fohile to Chicago, via Mobile and Ohio— *Mobile to Cairo 540 Cairo to Chicago 355 89f o Mobile to St. Louis, as before 715 BTobile to St. Paul, via Mobile and Ohio— *Mobile to Cairo 540 Illinois Central — Cairo to Dunlieth 451 Mississippi river — Dunlieth to St. Paul's 275 1,266 I ') or. New Orleans to St. Louis, via N. 0. 1. and (I. N. Miss. C. and M. 0. R. R. - *New Orleans to Cairo 625 miles. As above — Cairo to St. Louis l75 800 New Orleans to Chicago, as above 980 New Orleans to St. Paul's, as above 1,351 .i., II 3S. 00