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REMARKABLE ADVENTURES

FRO\i

REAL LIFE.

LONDON:
PUBLISHED Al' THE LEISURE HOUF. OFFICE .■
■ THK RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY-
™ PATEItNOSTER KOW, AND 3M PICCADItLV

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CONTENTS.

My AoveKtuhes mm Grisly Bear8 in Cautoksia a^d Okeoox
►Stopped ox the Highway

An Adventure in China

Lost in the Woods ....

Adventure with Spanish Smugglers

A Lady's Adventure during an Inundation of the Rhone

A Night among Chlnese Pirates

Adventures in the Nicobar Islands

A Female Crusoe ....

An Adventi're in the Desert

Lost on the Fells

Narrow Escape from a Snake-bite

An Adventure on Beachy Head

Robbing the Dead

Buried Alive in the Snow .

An Adventure in Arran

An Awkward Ad^-enture

A Twilight Adveni-ure.-Aw Apparition Extkaordinary

Adventure a3iong the Hudson's Bay Fuu Hunters

EncouxNter with a Water Snake

A Night Adventure in Paris

An Adventure at Petra

An Adventure in Rupert's Land

Benighted on Salisbury Plain

A Leaf from a Clergyman's Journal

yAr.R
7

•23

72
S5
1)2
95

104

IIG

125

];{2
1:^9

112

150

165

179

188

198

^ i vJ

CONTENTS.

An Advevturb i:roN Exiioon

AUVENTI KK IN TeHU .,....••

An Am'EXTLi!E in CAiiUNGPOuD Bay ; oi!, Tuk Sruui of IjAvlndkk

An Encounter ■with a BrFFAUj

An Adventure in the Levant

An AI)^^;NTT:RE in a Pint; Wood

I?I,M[NlSCENfTiS OP THE YeLI-OW FeVEiJ AT CaRTIIAGENA

A Night 'n Tasmania ,

A StUTKINQ PllOVIDKNOAi »

200

214

22U

234

239

24;»

2r)S

265

284

NOTE.

The papers composing this book liave appcurod in various volumes of " The Leisuub
Hour " and " Sunday at Home." With .; few exceptior.s, the sources of which are
indicated, the " Adventures" were communicated as true incidents by correspondents
known to the Editor. While aft vding interesting reading, especially for the young,
Ihey will bo found to convey useful information about many lands. Most of the
narratives have the higher purpose of impressing ou tho mind the reality of an over-
ruling Providence; and some of them present, in an attractive form, lessomi of
Christian faith and duty.

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES FROM

REAL LIFE.

MY ADVENTURES WITH GRISLY BEARS IN CALI-
FORNIA AND OREGON.

The first time I e\ cr saw a grisly bear was in the British Museum.
Of course he was dead and stuffed, and presented the usual door-
mat and Duclancholy appearance peculiar to stuffed animals. I
was very young then, and little thought I should ever encounter
him in a more dangerous aspect.

Every traveller in California ]iei),rs more or less of *' grislies,"
and many and wonderful {ire the *' stiff yarns" told by old hunters
and trappers up at the mines ; but I am not now going to repeat
vhat I have heard. T^his is a true narrative, and I purpose
simply to relate my own unvarnished experiences.

In Californiaj which is a strange country, one is often obliged to
lake to strange and unusual pursuits to earn a living. I know that
I had to do so. One of my occupations, during the time I dwelt
there, was that of a boatman in the harbour. In conjunction with
another young adventurer, I owned a large boat ; and when not
! ngaged witli freight or passengers, we often used to take a trip
iK^ross the bay, some twelve miles in distance, load with timber,
which wo procured by felling trees in the wood that fringed the
shore, transport it to San Francisco, and dispose of it to the shop-

ItEMAUKAI-I.E ADVENTUHES.

, !

kcopcrs llicrc. vVt that tinu} wood was th(3 only I'ut'l to bo obtained
ill tho city. As tlicso expeditions often consumed a couple ol'
days and a niglit, wc Imd constructed a nide shanty in the wood,
close to tho shore, under which wo sl(?pt. This shanty, or hut,
was formed simply of l)oughs of trees, etc., and only boasted of
three walls, the fourth being supplied by our fire, wliich we regu-
larly lighted at night and kept burning till morning. One iu'glit,
about nine o'clock, we were extended on our blankets in th(3
shanty, just on the point of dropping into that deep and drejimlesd
sleep Avliich labour alone earns, when our ears were suddenly
saluted by a deep and prolonged roar, evidently proceeding from
some distance in the woods.

*' That's a bear," said my mate.

" It is," said I.

With this short dialogue our conversation ceased, and my com-
panion turned over and seemed to go to sleep, but I could not.
All the terrible stories of grisly bears which I had ever heard began
to catalogue themselves in my imagination mt\i most unpleasant
Y'-n'^-^ess, and I reflected moodily on the trifling defence we could
c should a bear attack us. His rush would bring down the
walls of our poor little shanty about our ears, and our only arms
were two short guns and a brace of bowie knives — poor weapons
of defence in such u serious encounter.

Thus an hour passed away, and I lay glancing alternately at th(3
lire and out into the woods through the chinks of our shanty (for it
was a lovely moonlight night), when again presently a roar deeper,
and certainly nearer, rang upon the silent night air, and my com-
panion suddenly sat up. Like me, he had only been pretending
sleep, and had not cared to explain his fears. Now he spoke, and
said, *' Do you think it's safe here ?"

" No, I don't," I rejoined ; and, the ice being broken, we simul-
taneously sprang to our feet and looked around; Nothing living

ADVENTUUES WITll llEAKS.

was ill siglit; but again a roar uiipleastmtly near nitido itself
heard to our listening ears. We took the hint, and in two minutes
we had packed up our traps, and were racing down to the boat,
some two hundred yards distant. Htistily launching her, we i)ut a
good hundred yards between us and the shore, and anehoi «(l.
Throwing ourselves under the thwart of the boat, we made oui*-
selves as comfortable as circnmstances would permit, and snorinaly
emulated the growlings of the bear, soon after we had stretched
ourselves on the hard planks.

We wore awakened in a few hours by a fresh alarm. All in a
moment, as it seemed, though it must have taken place gradually,
my mate rolled violently on the 'x)p of me. As, I suppose, my
mind had been filled all night with dreamy visions of grisly bears,
I concluded, on being thus abruptly awakened, that I was assaulted
by one of them, and instantly I grappled with my foe, who grappled
with me in return. It took a minute or two to satisfy each of us
that the hug in which we found ourselves locked was human instead
of ursine. With a laugh we released each other, and then dis-
covered the cause of the accident. The fact was, while we slept,
the tide had run out, and we were high and dry. Of course, as the
water left us, our boat heeled over, till at last she lay on her
side, and, as I was to leeward of my companion, he rolled down
upon me. With no good feelings towards the bear tribe in general,
we pro2)ped up our boat again to a level keel, and betx)ok ourseh es
once more to slumber, not awaking till the sun rose bright and
cheerful in the blue unclouded Califomian sky.

Such was my first distant introduction to a grisly bear. At a
later period, I was cruising about the Bay of San Francisco, in a
ship's long-boat, with three or four sailors, in search of any
" wreck " (or " flotsam," as our old statutes would call it), such as
building-piles or spars of vessels, that we might chance to come
across. Sometimes these expeditions were successful, at other

IJKMAIIKADLE ADVENTUliES.

times u luilure. I remeiubur once, after a sovcro easterly gale, wo
picked up a number of valuable articles, evidently from the ^vn!ck
of yoiiKj unfortunate vessel. Amongst the spoil was a cask of lime
juice, and another cask of preserved eggs, for which wc; obtained
the several prices of lifty and one hundred and thirty dollars —
sums which, in English money, are together equivalent to about oSl.
The latter may seem a large price ; but it is necessary to remem-
ber that at that thiie — namely, hi 1849 — provisions of all kinds
were fearfully expensive, especially eggs, which were very scarce.

But to continue my rarrative. I have said that we were sailing
about, the harboiu* in search of wreck, and, as often happened, night
closed upon us when we were a long way from home. I believe
the Bay of San Francisco is some thirty miles in length, so,
according to our custom, we made for the nearest land, ancliored
our boat, and wont ashore. In what particular portion of the bay
we were situated, none of us knew or cared. It seemed a some-
what desolate spot, as far as we could discern through the dark
and drear autumn night. However, our requisites for camping —
namely, wood and water — were easily procm'ed, and in a few
minutes a capital lire sent forth its cheerful blaze and genial heat.
Then our blankets, fryingpan, kettle, etc., were brought ashore,
and in a short time our preparations for supper were complete.
The kettle was singing on the embers, the fryingpan was splutter-
ing away with the rashers, and the wfive-worn wreckers were seated
in a row, gazing with hungry and anxious faces on the approaching
"feed;" when suddenly a dark and formidable-looking object
emerged jfrom the gloom of night in the landward dii'ection, and
advanced slowly towards om* fire.

" A bear, and a grisly one," shouted the American we had with
us, as we all started to our feet. That was enough. Sauve qui
pent was the order of the day. Resistance was not for a moment
thought of. Supper and our traps were in an instant iibaiidoned^

AUVENTUllKS SVlTli BEAlt.S.

and i)(3ll-mi'll wa rusliud down to tlus beucli, and Dcvor looked
iicliind lill W(' \v(n'(5 i'airly in tlio boat and getting tlio anchor np.
Tlion, what a wight greeted us ! There sat our griwly enemy on
Ills Iiaunclies, gazing with the greatest uonchahuK^e int(jthe glowing
cinbers of tlie iire — our tire — and evidently enjoying th<? pleasant
warmth, while we were shivering in the cold. Slowly and sailiy
we got up our anchor ; more slowly and more sadly still, we i)la('(Ml
onr oars in the rowlocks and '' gave way," in a very melancholy
mood ; but as our boat struck out on her coui*se, our eyes v/ero
still fixed on the receding shon^, where the lire still blazed
brightly, \\here the bear still sat on his haunches gazing into the
blaze, and wliere our n pper was by this time nearly ivndy for his
hungry maw, by us imearcm.

Now, perhaps, some g.illant vobmteer reading this, would con-
sid(»r tliat in this last affair, like tlie former one, the white feather
was shown by the wn'ter and his companions ; but our volunteer
would be mistaken. To cope with a grisly bear a good rifle and a
good rifleman are absolutely essential. The rifleman must also be
a first-rate hunter, accustomed to kill large game ; for the sport is
intensely dangerous, as it is only in one or two places that a wound
can be inflict(xl which would prove instantaneously mortal on this
toughest of monsters ; and, should the shot fail, the hunter would
have no time to load again ere the beast would be upon him.
Hardy trappers and liunters in tlie jirairie shrink alone from a
conflict with the grisly bear ; and the Indian brave who prevails
over him advances a greater step in the estimation of Indian
cliivaliy, than if he had taken three scalps from human foes in a
fair stand-up fight.

After I had been a denizen of California for some two years,
business compelled nic lo take my departure for the neighbouring
State of Oregon. When my affairs in that state were aiTanged, I
determined to travel back overland to San Francisco, in company

REMAUKABLE ADVENTURES.

11 r

witli ii nuilo train proceeding there — no slight journey, as it ein-
briiced a distance of some thousand miles, not exactly over a mac-
adamized road. On the contrary, mounted on good horses, we
followed a slight Indian " trail," scarcely ever of more importance
than a sheep track, and ofttimes quite obliterated. I shall, how-
ever, avoid a long digression of describing how we climbed moun-
tains, forded rivers, and skirted precipices, and how wo juore
than once had perilous skirmishes with Indians. The grisly boar
is my theme, and it devolves upon me now simply to relate how a
third time I came into juxtaposition with this formidable foe.

After travelling very hard for a week' or so, we found ourselves
one night camped on the banlvs of the Iloque river, one of the
rivers of Oregon, where gold has since been discovered ; and, as our
cattle were rather in a poor condition, ^ve resohed to give them a
rest by camping all the next day. Feeling myself, in tlie course of
that day, inclined for a gentle ride, towards the afternoon I saddled
my horse, a good specimen of Indian breed, which I had bought
from a Pawnee chief. Taking my rifle across my saddle-bags, I set
oft' to see whether I could get a shot at an ellv — a species of deer
commonly called wapiti, which abound in that region. I rode out
from camp, and, after cantering some four or five miles, came to
the end of the little prairie on wliich ^^'e were camped, and got into
broken ground, well wooded, and with a thick growth of " chappa-
ral," that is, " underwood."

Moving along at a slow amble, and keeping a good look-out for
game, and also for any Im-king Indian — for we were now on hostile
ground — I suddenly felt my horse tremble under me, and rapidly
quicken liis pace to a slashing gallop. Looking to my right hand,
to my intense astonishment, and I may say fear, I beheld a mon-
sti-ous bear, evidently an old grisly, rising from liis lair beneath a
tree.

In a moment I knew ho would pursue me, for I had "crossed

ADVENTURES WITH BEARS.

)a-

for

ale

ily

nd,

'^1

011-

lia

Led

his wind." This requii-es explanation ; bnt I liad often been told
l/V Imntors of experience that this sj)ecies of bear does not attack
men if they pass sideways or in liis rear, bnt shoidd t!i;'y, ou tlie
other hand, pass to windward, he is instantly exasi)erated and gives
chase. Whether this statement is fanciful or not, I am sorry to
say that in my case it proved too true ; for in another instant the
grisly seemed to have made up his mind, and was advancing
towards us in fiill pursuit.

Now, had I been upon the prairie, I should have cared little for
my foe. I knew my horse, and though he was of Indian breed, as
I have said before, he was remarkably fleet in his gallop ; and the
grisly bear, though liis speed, especially for a short time, is not to
be despised, is certainly no match for a fleet horse on a level ; but
then, in this case the brushwood was very heavy, and only to be
passed by a succession of small leaps, fearfully delaying at a time
like this, while my pursuer's heavy body crushed indifferently
through bush and briar. With the end of my lasso, my spur, and
voice, I urged on my terrified horse. The rein with Indian horses
is of little avail ; they do not understand the bit, and in a case of
emergency it is better not to make much use of it. My poor
horse, however, required neither of these inducements to do his
best. His Indian instincts had told him that a dreaded foe was at
hand, and nobly did he strain every nerve to save himself and his
rider. With one eye upon our course, I regarded at intcsrvals our
dreadful pursuer. Infinitely quicker than it takes to write it, I at
once app^'eciated the desperate nature of the situation. In the first
place, I saw that in our relative speed my horse was much inferior
to our enemy, and that he was nearing us fast, owing, as I said
before, to the broken ground. Unless, then, I could gain the edge
of the prairie in a comparatively short period, a death stniggle
must inevitably ensue. But then I calculated, in the second
place, that I must be at least a mile from the prairie, that wished-

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

for refuge, and at less than half that diatanco I should be over-
taken. True, I had my rifle in my hand, and my revolver in my
belt, both loaded. I might fii-e at our foe. A moment's reflection
convinced me that at present it woidd be a useless attempt. Even
were I standing on firm footing, I might not succeed in sending a
ball into any vulnerable part of the bear. But a flying shot from
the saddle — it was simply absurd to attempt it. A thousand to
one it would have proved a failure. I determined, then, to reserve
my fire till we should be at close quarters, a contingency that, sad
to say, appeared most unpleasantly imminent ; for in spite of all
my horsemanship, and the gallant efforts of my Indian steed, a
space of hardly twenty yards now intervened between pursuer and
pursued. The moment, then, was approaching for action. Drop-
ping my useless reins on my horse's neck, I examined carefully the
cap of my rifle, opened the flap of the case of my revolver, and by
a glance assured myself that my " Green Eiver Knife " (the best
make of bowie knives) was in its usual place — my boot. Then I
carefully threw back the heavy folds of the Mexican poncho I wore,
to leave my arms free to hold my rifle. As I did so, an idea struck
me. In a moment I had slij^ped my head out of the poncho, and
had it in my hands, allowing it to flutter to the full extent of its
folds. Then I released it from my grasp, and it fell, as I designed,
between my horse and our enemy.

My stratagem was successful ; in the midst of his wild career the
bear suddenly pulled up at the sight of the fallen mantle, and stood
over it examining it curiously. Well was it for me that in my
younger days I had been a keen reader of travels and adventures,
and ] y that means become possessor of the little stratagem that
had perhaps saved my life. I again seized my abandoned reins,
and with voice and spur urged on my panting steed. It was well I
did so. After a few seconds' delay, which, liowever, enabled me to
put an interval of perhaps a hundred yards between us, my ruthless

III

ADVENTUJIES WITH BEARS.

foe again reHumcd liis pursuit. Again ho had the advantage in
speed. In vain was all my horsemansliip ; in vain did I sacrifice
my Mexican sombrero, by throwing it to mother earth, devoutly
hoping it would have the same effect as the poncho. It was use-
less. Bruin passed ii with contempt ; he was not to be " done " a
second time.

On went the chase, and again did I have the mortification of
seeing the space between us gradually diminish, and my fate but a
question of minutes. As this direful conviction foiced itself witli
irresistible power on my mind, even at the veiy next moment a ray
of hope burst upon me. I cast a d espairing glance a-head, and to
my intense relief saw the ground ivas getting clearer. I was close
to the edge of the prairie. I shouted aloud in exultation ; for, as
the ground got more and more unencumbered, my horse drew
gi-adually a-head: A few seconds sufficed to double the space that
intervened between us and our foe. A few minutes, and we had
gained a full hundred yards. Humh ! A few hundred yards
more, and we shall be safe — safe on the prairie. At this moment a
stumble and a crash ensued. A thousand lights danced before my
eyes. My sorely-pressed Indian steed had lost his foothold on the
polished surface of a prostrate barked pine tree, and together wo
had come headlong to the ground. Half stunned by the fall,
nevertheless I scrambled to my feet in a second, and seized ray
rifle, which lay uninjured close at hand, and looked around; My
poor horse still ^ay where he fell, snorting piteously with fear.
Intuitively I felt there was not time to raise him and mount ere
our enemy would be upon us. There was but one hope now
remaining : it was to fight for it. Sternly and gloomily I mentally
accepted the alternative, and with a throbbing heart but a steady
eye and firm wrist, with my rifle at my shoulder, with my baclv
against a tree, I waited for my foe. I had not to wait long. On
he came ; for a moment I thought he hesitated which to attack —

f^gg^

KEMABKABLE ADVENTURES.

my steed or myself. I confess, in that moment of peril I sincerely
wished he would single out the former, who lay some ten yards
distant from me ; but it was not to be. Slightly diverging, llio
bear charged full upon me. I knew my life depended upon the
accuracy of my first shot ; if it failed, I should hardly have time to
draw forth my revolver for another.

When but ten yards lay between us, and he was gathering
himself up for the final spring, I took careful aim between the
eyes, and fired. A crash, a hideous growl, a second of intense
suspense, the smoke lifted, and I alone stood erect. The hideous,
gigantic form of my adversary lay prostrate on the ground, a
nervous twitching of the limbs alone betraying that life had not
yet departed. With a cry of triumph 1 rushed upon liim to
administer the coup de grace, Madnmu that I was! in that
moment of exultation I lost my presence of mind and neglected to
reload my trusty rifle. I did not even draw my revolver, but with
insensate wildness clubbed my rifle, and struck the monster over
his adamantine head. Contemptible idea ! the stock of my rifle
was shattered by the blow, and but the barrel remained in my
hand. The blow I had directed on the head of my adversary was
simply reviving. It had the effect that a dose of hartshvorn has in
a Tainting fit — it brought him to. He had been only stunned by
the ball. Grim, ghastly, and bleeding, he rose to his feet and
confronted me. A pang of surprise and remorse at my own gross
stupidity shot painfully across my heart. Fortunately, in that
moment of horror I remained cool. With the speed of thought, I
had drawn and cocked my revolver and ensconced myself behind a
tree. With weak and faltering steps, but still with fast renev.ix^g
strength, my opponent charged down to my tree. I stepped aside,
which caused him to make a slight detour ; and at this instant I
fired a chamber of my revolver. He did not drop, but, raising
himself on his hind legs, he threw liimselfupon me. I awaited

ADVENTURES WITH BEARR.

him in desperate calmness?, though at this moment lie presented a
terrific spectacle, with glaring eyes, gTinning tueks, and tongue
dropping foam and blood. Almost I felt his hot breath on my
cheek, when I again fired point-blank at his head. The next
instant a blow from his fore paw knocked the weapon from my
hand ; that effort, however, was his last. With trembling joy, I
saw his huge carcass sink to the earth, and his life departed in one
indescribable growl of rage and pain.

With a thankful heart for so wonderful a deliverance, I now
went to i-aise my poor steed to his feet, and rode into camp, where,
amid many an ejacidation of astonishment, I told my tale, and
exhil-ited my trophy in the shape of the skin, of which I had^
denuded my dead antagonist.

Such was my last interview with the tribe of grislies. When I
say my last interview, I cannot quite literally make the assertion.
" Again we met," but in a much more pleasant fashion for myself.
Dining one day at Delmonico's, the famous restaurant of Montgo-
mery Street, San Francisco, I observed on the table, in company
with several comestibles unknown to civilized gourmands of the
old country — such as flying squirrel, racoon, etc. — a portion of my
ancient enemy ; and I must confess that I ate a piece of him with
a certain peculiar gusto. My vindictive feeling, however, was
punished, for I had a most unpleasant attiick of indigestion after-
wards. I lay down my pen, and conclude with the parting remark,
that I should advise any one who places a due and proper value on
his life, to avoid the least intimacy, unless caged, or stuffed, with
the far-famed monster of the far west — the grisly bear.

1 ,M

ii.^iHlit- •-

)-:

HE1VtAl{KATUiE AnVKNTITT?T:S.

STOPPED ON THE IIKillWAY.

It was in the fall of the yoar 1838 that I f=iot out from homo Into
ono evoninc^ to walk a diatanco of twolvo iniloa into tho oonntry.
It was for tho c^rea tor part a .solitary jonmoy; and to add to lis
discomfort the absonoo of tho moon rendorod tho ni.2;ht vory dnrlc,
whilst a. thick drizzling rain commoncod shortly after my loavinir,
and rontinnod throuG^hont tho Avholo lonp^h of my lonely wny.
Having no companion to choor tho solitude, 1 hnd only my own
thoughts to begnilo tho todiousness. Tt was a road, too, that Avns
occasionally att<^nd(Yl with Svuno danger to foot travellers; but 1
was on the Tjord's worlc, and feeding assured that his presence is
always nigh, and that "snthout his permission no evil can befall his
S(^rvants, "nor a hair of their head fall imto the ground," 1
gathered courage ; and committing myself to his grncious core,
proceeded through the thick darkness, which so efCectually excluded
objects from view that I could scarcely distinguish the form of th(^
umbrella whicb I carried for j)rotection from the I'ain.

At the present date, tho locality is much improved, nnd where
there was then only the highway with its cross-roads, jiersons have
now the advantaws of the railwav, with its fiicilities and comforts.
But I was well acquainted with the route, and had therefore not
much difficulty in finding my way ; whilst I had plenty of occupa-
tion for my thoughts in the important errand on which I was going,
having on the next day to preach in a small town and an adjacent
village — the former being the place of my present destination.

It may not be out of place to slate hero that in the earlier
periods of my ministerial life, my duties entailed much hard work,
and many long journeys on foot — so that, to w\alk twenty miles in
the day and to preach two or three times was a weekly custom ;
but happily I was equal to my work ; though after a few years T

MTOPrKI) ON THE IIICniWAY

fonml my Htronf^ili yioldiiinr to tlio f^roat tnx upon it, and my liraltli
also bt'gaii to sulTer, owing to woariuess and frequent exposure to
the severity of tlie weather.

I had proceeded about ten miles of my journey safely, and witli
no material impediment beyond wliat the extreme darkness
naturally eaused, with the imfavourable state of the roads, whieli
in many parts had become very miry; whilst, whore the trees
overhung, the hirge drops ])attered heavily and rather dismally
up(m the umbrella, which in fact had u long while continued to
shoot off a plentiful tUscharge of water from every point.

I was absorbed in thought, whi(.'h the stillness of the night (it
being nearly eleven o'clock) served to favour; when suddenly 1
heard a slight rustling sound somewhere near, which attracted my
whole attention for the moment. Before I could form an opinion
as to its cause, and whether it might not proceed fr m some strayed
horse or bullo(^k, wliich certainly I should not have wished to (!omo
into contact witli, I was '^tartled by the voice of a man from th(^
opposite side of the road, authoritatively calling to me and bidding
me instantly to " stop there."

Surprised nt this unexpected interruption, and somewliat alarmed
by a sense of danger, my first impulse was, mentally, to call unto
the Lord to help and ])voU]ct me ; then, shutting my umbrella, by
an extraordinary sort of impulse I went over towards the spot
whence the voice ciimo ; when, to my horror, I perceived a man
jumping down from the hedge upon me, with a large bludgeon in
his hand, which he instantly upraised, as if intending by a blow
therewith to fell me to the ground.

I immediately spoke to him ; and in as calm a manner as I
could assume, requested to know what he wanted of me, and why
he had stopped me on the public road.

He at first gave me no answer, but stood before me with the
stick still elevated in the air, wliich I every moment feared and

Ifr—

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

expected ho would bring down with a violence that perhaps might
inflict some grievous, or it might be mortal, injury. It was a
critical moment. Bat although I could not in the least have com-
peted with my antagonist, I was enabled to feel a degree of
composure which at the time surprised my mind : it was certainly
the result of humble dependence on Divine protection.

As I said, the man kept the stick raised, as if intending to
strike ; but from some peculiar cause it appeared Jie either hesitated
in his purpose or was altogether unnerved.

In the meanwhile I was emboldened to repeat my question, and,
without manifesting timidity, expressed a hope that he would
not attempt to injure mo. He then answered, " No, I won't harm

vou.

" Then, pray put down the stick," I said ; but he did not, and I
repeated my request : " Do remove that stick from over my head,
jind I will believe you."

" I do not mean to hurt you," he answered ; "I would not, for I
know vou."

Surprised at this statement — for I had no idea how it was
possible I could be known to him, neither of us being able, by
reason of the darkness of the night, to distinguish each other's
features — I said, "Know me, do you? Why, how is it possible
you sliould have any knowledge of me ?"

" I DO know you," he again averred.

« Then who am I ?"

" You are the minister of ."

" Pray how do you make that out ?" I said.

** Why, sir," he answered in a subdued manner, Avhile he put

the stick down by his side, " I once heard you preach at , and

just now when you spoke, though I could not see who you were, I
knew you again by your voice ; so 1 would not harm you."

This singular disclosure both surprised and pleased me, and

.STOPPED ON THE lUQHVVAV.

therefore, feeling ull apprehension removed from my mind, I begun
to go on ray way again, saying to the man : " I am indeed tho
person you describe, and am surprised at the recognition. I am
now on the Lord my Master's worlc ; and with the object of serving
him and, as I liope, doing some good to my fellow-creatures, by
directing them to the Lamb of God who taketh away the sin of

the world, I am out thus late to-night on my way to town.

Come along with me now, and let me talk with you."

The man stuck close to my side, and we went on together some
little distance, whilst I made inquiries of liim respecting his lying
in wait in the hedge at that hour of the night and in such weather.
But to all he kept nmte ; he neither answered my questions nor
made any response to the remarks which I felt it a duty to press
on his attention. He was evidently ill-disposed, and had Iain in
secresy with some evil design. I doubt if any honest man would
have been where he was and acted as he did ; or else, certainly, if
I had mistaken his purposes, he would have immediately told me
so and set me right, and not have continued silent to my words,
particularly when seeking to ascertain the object he had in lying
behind the hedge. After proceeding a short distance, he suddenly
grasped my hand, then darted forward, sprang into a narrow lane
on the left, and I entirely lost him.

How I felt at that moment, so suddenly left again to my own
reflections, I cannot describe ; but my first impressions were those
of Jacob when awaking from sleep on his journey between Heer-
sheba .'ind Haran : " Surely the Lord is in this place, and I knew
it not."

Oh, how often we need some special circumstance to be to our
mind the remembrancer of our absolute dependence upon God !
The presence of God is always surrounding our path, and we cannot
go from his presence nor flee from his Spirit. But we do not
always, perhaps, so recognise that presence as when the Lord, by

llEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

Ill

|i|

Ilia intei-posing providence in the season of a threatening cahimity,
shows us he is still earing for us, remembering us, and is every-
where with us. We need occasionally some unusual and peculiar
(circumstance or trial to prove to us that the Lord ii3 " a God nigh
at hand, and not afar off." And then, like the patriarch, we attest
our surprise that God was still so near, when perhaps we thought
ourselves " all alone ;" that in this or that crooked troubled path, so
intricate to our minds, so trying to our spirits, so dark to our com-
prehension, he was there too, in his aiding, supporting, protecting,
saving providence, love, and grace. " I knew it not." Oh, what joy
to our souls to make the discovery, by whatever means it may be,
that God is very nigh unto us ! But we ought always to be^'evc so
if we are his people and servants ; for " the angel of the Lord
encampeth round about them that fear him, and delivereth them."

Rescued so remarkably from the danger in which I had been
placed, my heart was lifted up in gratitude to the Almighty for his
merciful and timely providence. I blessed him for his protecting
hand, and also that he had enabled me at the moment not to
endeavour to make my escape from the man, which attempt,
perhaps, would have altogether foiled ; but to speak, and to speak
in the natm-al tones of my voice, by which I was instantly recog-
nised, and which prevented the violence that probably would
otherwise have been done to me.

It was near midnight when I arrived at my friend's house, to
whom I narrated the occurrence ; and then we joined together in
offering to the Lord the praise due to his great goodness.

In the week following, inquiries were set on foot in the neigh-
bourhood, to trace if possible the individual, but nothing could be
discovered ; and to the present he remains unknown, as probably
will continue to be the case until that day when aU secrets shall be
made public, and the hidden works of darkness, with all that is
treasured up in the Divine remembrance, shall be brought to liglit.

AN AOVENTUUE IN CHINA.

2:j

I can only hopo that the few words I addressed to the maii may
luive been blessed l)y the Holy Spirit to his eternal ^ood. Tlien,
in more senses tluiii one, wo shall bo constrained to give glory to
God, and say, ^' This was the Lord's doing, and it is marvellous in
our eyes."

AN ADVENTUEE IN CHINA.

In August, 1822, when opium smuggling into China by English
ships was in its infancy, three of these vessels were at anchor in
the pretty little land-locked bay called Cumsen Moon, about twelve
miles to the north-east of Macao. The inhabitants about that part
of the country had, up to this time, scarcely ever been visited by
foreigners ; and although it turned out that they were filled witli
the usual Chinese ill feeling towards them, yet the report from the
ship which had been longest there Avas so favourable, as to cause all
arms to be dispensed with by the crews on going on shore at any
time, until the following occurrence took place.

Soon after breakfast one fine clear day, Mr. A , a young

officer belonging to the " Swinger," was sent on shore to fill water
in the launch, with a crew of eight Lascars and one Englishman.
It so happened that he met another officer from the " Nymph " on
shore, who was on the same duty as himself. The two youngsters
proceeded to take a walk into the country, for the purpose of
amusement and information. In doing so, however, they had to
leave the boats and ships entirely out of sight, turning shaj-p round
a bluff point very near to the watering-place ; which will be
seen in the sequel to have been a gross want of prudence, giving
the hidden enemy all the advantage which they seem to have been
stealthily watcliing for.

The walk was pursued for about a mile inland, towards a hill ;

'f fr

*24

UEMAUKAULE ADVKNTUKES.

and then, on returning by the same path, about five liuudrcd yards
irom the boat, but liidden by tho bhifi", they wore met by thirty or
forty (yhiuanien, some with hoes, and some with heavy sticks, used
for carrying weighty things across their shoulders. The Cliinti-
men, after passing, and having a great deal to say amongst them-
selves, enme after the officers, pulled them by the sleeve once or
twice to stop them, and stood in the way also to prevent progrcHs.

Mr. A , seeing that they were bent on a disturbance, thought,

under the circumstances, that discretion would be the best mode of
tactics. He stopped and turned round, but in a moment was
knocked down by a blow from some of the crowd of Chinamen.
This was followed up by tying the unfortunate officer's hands and
feet, stealing his neckerchief (nearly strangling him in the act),
and one shoe from his foot, and then letting him lie on the ground.

Mr. B , seeing this state of things, and possessing good long

legs, considered that now was the time to use them, by running
through the mob to the boats for assistance, which he fortunately
effected. Tho two crews of Lascars and the one English sailor
now took oars and stretchers from the boats, and bravely fought
the Chinamen for a short time, till they were driven back to tlieir
boats by overpowering numbers, and shoved off, without fui^her

loss, to their respective ships, to tell the tale of Mr. A being in

the hands of the enemy.

The caT)tain of the " Swinger " (an old lieutenant, R.N.) imme-
diately boarded the " Nymph " and " Sea Gull," and advised a

razzia of the country till Mr. A should be found and brought

back, dead or alive, which was forthwith put in execution, by
mustering on shore in due time all the officers, petty officers,
Lascars, and sepoys who could be spared from the three ships,
well armed with muskets, fowling-pieces, swords, pistols, etc., of
which opium ships in those days had no niggardly supply.

But we tnuBt now return to Mr. A . The moment tlio

AN ADVENTUUE IN CHINA.

Chinamen saw tlio boata kIiovl' oft' irom the shore, tlie order was

^iveii to put Mr. A on liis legs, by untying them ; and he,

liaving picked up his hat, but still minus tho shoe and neckerchief
stood for a moment, till the words, " Fye, fye," were given by one
of four villanous-looking fellows who were now left in solo charge
of tho prisoner. Not knowing tho meaning of this, however, at
the time — namely, " run, run " — ho still stood, and was forthwith
saluted by a stroke from a bamboo across the back of the legs near
the heels, and dragged forward at the same instant by two of the
four men, the other two following in tho rear with bamboos, in
case any slackening of the pace should appear.

In this manner, at a hard trot, did these wretches drive Mr.

A through paddy fields, and all sorts of ground, till they

reached the top of a hill, about two hundred feet high, although
lie was in great pain from the blow which he had received, and
hardly able to move at all. Before ascending the hill t>n the other

side, Mr. A turned round to look at the ships in the distance

with feelings of a somewhat melancholy nature, as may be sup-
posed, when the same man who had struck him said, hi lialf
Portuguese, half Chinese, " })o you want to look ? look ! it is your

last look !" These words Mr. A happened to understand, from

having heard occasionally a little of this jargon at Macao, and they
certainly did not tend to soothe his mind in its then anxious state.
8till, he had a kind of hope that dollars might gain his releyse,
although up to this time appearances were far from favouring such
an idea. Having descended the hill towards the beach, on tlie
opposite side from the ships, and after a two miles' run A\ith the
lieat at 100° at least, they halted under some trees close to a small

stream of water, of which Mr. A asked to be allowed to drink,

which was granted. He then, seeing that his wrists were alread}'
considerably swollen, from the tightness of the rope by which
they were bound, asked to have it slackened. This was also

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

not only granted, but ho was then only tied by one hand ; and
in a few minutes the run was again commenced for a fm-ther
distance < ' about two miles, nearly the whole of which was through

heavy sand, till at last a village was entered, and Mr. A was

safely housed in a large ground-floor room on one side of a square
court, where were two long tables, and benches on either side of
them.

Tired and fagged with a four-mile march at the double, and
dragged along by the rope like a bullock to be slaughtered, he sat
down at one of the tables with feelings more easily imagined than
described. These wore certainly not much relieved when, in a few
minutes, the demon of the bamboo brought some huge knives from
a corner of the room, and put them to his neck with a grin of
delight, saying that the mandarin would soon be there to pass
sentence of death on him, when he should cut off his head in the
manner then shown.

Meanwhile, hundreds of people came to see the Fankwei — men,
women, and children — who had never beheld one in their lives
before ; some wondered at his dress, others at his hair, and nearly
all jeered and laughed at his position ; even the women, whose

compassion Mr. A had tried to gain, abused him and talked

of the mandarin, making signs also of cutting off a head, etc.

The crowd being by this time very great, and adding much to

the almost insufferable heat, Mr. A begged to be relieved

from such unwelcome visitors if possible, which request was imme-
diii,tely acceded to, by his being placed in a small room on the
other side of the court, where was the usual Chinese bed — namely,
a mat and glazed pillow on a board, and a. stool and table with a
teapot and cup on it. The door of this place was only a mat
hung from the top, which was occasionally lifted up, to allow the
favoured few to have a peep at the Fankwei, or foreign devil.

Ml'. A here threw himself down on the mat bed, to await,

AN ADVENTURE IN CHINA.

as lie lioped, the coming of the captain to his rescue, which ho
knew from experience he would do immediately on learning the
circumstances of the case from the boat's crew (for he did not then

know of the escape of Mr. B ), and he prayed sincerely that

this might happen before the arrival of the said mandarin. The
natives offered him tea, which he gladly accepted, after he had
first seen them drink out of the same pot ; and in a short time,
amongst the " favoured few " who were allowed to peep into this

raree-show, appeared a man who accosted Mr. A with the

well-knu Yu sounds of " Hey, yah, how you do ? I have see you
before ; I thinkee at Macao." Never was mongrel English more
welcome. Mr. A recollected having seen the man some-
where, and at once looked upon him as a friend, and asked if he
thought there was any danger of liis being killed, as had been
threatened ; to which the man said, in a careless, imsatisfactory
soi-t of way, " No, I no thinkee so."

" Do they want dollars ?" asked Mr. A .

" Yes," was the reply.

" How much ?"

" Two thousand," said the man.

" Maskee " (never mind), answered the prisoner. " If you wih
give me a pen and ink, with a sheet of paper, and take a letter to
the captain when written, he will give you the dollars." To this
itn assent was at once given, and the necessary articles being pro-
duced, a letter was forthwith written by Mr. A , descriptive of

the state of the case and his whereabouts, as near as he could
j;uess, not forgetting the beaiing of the village from the ship by
compass, and requesting that the number of dollars should be paid
which were demanded, and no killing or wounding at the watering

jtlace; as Mr. A was so completely in the Chinamen's hands

that he would then be sure to be beheaded. He also asked for a
[■air of shoes to be sent, to enable him to walk back to the ship.

\rr

iiiHiiiiBHi

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

lilr

When this letter was despatched, Mr. A lay down once

more on the mat, and was now in a comparatively composed state
of mind, being under the impression that he would bo a prisoner
for four or five days at least, as the captain would require to get
the ship under weigh and proceed to Mf.cao for such an amount as
two thousand dollars, if that sum should really be demanded by
the messenger. Far different was the result, however.

On the man's arrival at the watering place, he found a con-
siderable number of well-armed men and officers, all ready for an
attack, and vowing vengeance against all Chinamen. The letter
was delivered to the captain, and when read, the man was asked

how many dollars were demanded, Mr. A having in tha letter

stated no particular number, but merely " to pay " the amount
*' demanded.' ' His answer was fifty, which the captain immediately
went on board the ship and procured, taking the opportunity of

getting a pair of shoes to send, and writing a letter to Mr. A

at the same time ; all of which he delivered into the hands of the
messenger, the dollars sealed up in a bag, addressed to Mr. A .

As this man objected to any Englishman going to the village
along with him, from fear of a fight, it was thought advisable to
give in to him, and send a Chinese carpenter, who belonged to one
of the ships, to assist in the negotiation, and show the road back

to Mr. A , no difficulty being apprehended, as the whole sum

asked for had been given, and the captain having no knowledge of
any greater having been spoken of. He told the man, however,
that, having satisfied his demands, he would allow a reasonable
time for the release of Mr. A ; but if this was not then accom-
plished, he would burn the village, and " make a second Lintin
business of it, and take him by force :" alluding to what had been
done there a few months before by H.M frigate " Topaz;.," which
caused a stoppage of trade for six weeks at Canton.

With this warning, the two Chinamen left the little " army " at

AN ADVENTURE IN CHINA.

the watering y ice, and in due time made their appearance at the
village, and delivered the bag of dollars, letter, and shoes to

Mr. A , who, on recognising the carpenter, immediately gave

him the dollars to hand over to the four ** braves," and expected to
Ix) allowed to decamp forthwith. But, " man, man !" (stop !) was
the order, and a long angry conversation took place in the large
room amongst many Chinamen, who were not a little annoyed at
the small sum received by their messenger ; but theif had not seen
the " guns and swords, and rungs and gads " which caused this
craven to reduce his figures so instantaneously ; and it took at
least twenty minutes of verbal war for him to convince his friends
that it was better to pocket fifty dollars with a whole skin, than
lose their village and their lives by standing out for a larger sum.
The carpenter, no doubt, had some weight in the argument, and at

last Mr. A was " granted a pass " to the watering-place, iu

company with the carpenter. He tried hard to induce the four
braves to accompany him back, by way of showing the road,
1 laving a distant glimmering of seeing them tied up at the gang-
way of his ship, and expiating their offences under the boatswain's
tuition ; but as the probability of such a climax had no doubt
been hinted to their own minds, the invitation was politely re-
fused, saving so far as to the skirts of the village.

With a light heart, Mr. A now travelled along with the car-
penter, and in the course of an hour had the gratification of being
Avelcomed at the watering-place by three cheers from the armed
party in waiting, and many a hearty shake of congratulation by the
hand ; feeling at the same time deeply thankful to the Almighty
for his merciful escape, and particularly for having so willed it that
lie should have been without arms on the occasion of his capture ;
a?j they certainly would have been used, and, as a consequence,
\\ ould almost as certainly have been the cause of his murder.

As it is customary in China for all mandarins to live upon those

i' ^,.^vJ^M,vi*m.!tMV, t »

eSS

iSSm

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

under them, by " squeezing," or niaklii!:>' them pay cloHars, it wn!-''i
not much to be wondered at that some of them should try to malvcs
capital out of the above occurrence ; and consequently, three ov
four days aftei*wards a man-of-war junk, sent by the admiral from
Cheun-pee, oame to anchor in the bay, and in a short time tli(^
mandarin went on board the " Swinger," and made inquiries
touching the description of the attacking parties, and particularly

that of the four " braves," which was easily given by Mv. A ,

their features being indelibly imprinted on his mind, and he having;
in addition been able to get hold of their names from some of th(>
natives at the watering place.

The mandarin said he should go on shore and seize those men,
and, if successful, bring them on board the " Swinger " the follow-
ing day for Mr. A to identify, when he should tie them u})

and flog them till Mr. A was satisfied. But on that same

evening an East India Company's ship arrived and anchored at
Lintin, and the captain of the " Swinger " having business to trans-
act with it, it was necessary for him to get under weigh at day-
light on the following morning, and sail for that island, distant

about six or seven miles, which prevented Mr. A witnessing

the flogging of the four " braves ;" for it was shortly afterwards
known that the mandarin did seize them, and not only flogged
them well, but " squeezed " them well also.

The ship which had arrived was that to which IMr. A pro-
perly belonged, he having only been lent to do duty in the
" Swinger " during her temporary absence' at Pcnang ; and as lie
then for ever quitted the opium service, he has had no subsequent
opportunity of learning any further particulars concerning the men
who committed this outrage, or even the name of the village t(^
which he was dragged. The facts are, however, strictly true, and
will tend to show how absolutely necessary it is for all boats' crew^^
to use the greatest caution on landing on the coasts of China.

LOST IN THE WOODS.

LOST IN THE \YOODS.

JiEFORE the discovery of gold at Vancouver's Island, when tlie
onlv European residents were confined within the quadrangle of a
wooden fort, or, more properly speaking, a stockade, I was on one
occasion very nearly perisliing in the woods of that beautiful
island. The abundance of game of all sorts, and my ovm love
of adventm-e, tempted me to set out alone, thereby hoping to have
a 1>(}tter chance of securing a deer than if accompanied by a com-
rad(\ I started for a small stream running into Esquimalt liar-
hour, where the Indians had informed me the animals came at day-
break to drink. I soon found myself following a trail, which I
believed led to the desired spot : of this, however, I gradually
became doubtful, as the ground began to rise, and the trail gi-ew
less distinct as I advanced. The grand trunks of pine trees,
towering far above the rest of the forest, and the thick dark foliage
they supported, impressed my mind with that indescribable feeling
of awe which we experience in the broad silent desert or the perfect
calm at sea. I had seen no traces of deer, and the only sounds
which had met my ear were the sharp tapping of the large wood-
pecker and the flapping wings of the pigeons. The stems of the
trees were blackened by the action of fire, and in many places
some giant trunk, felled by the wintry gales, lay across my path.
I toiled onward, but without finding the stream for which I was in
search. The sun was high in the heavens, and all chance of reach-
ing the di'inking place of the deer in time to meet them was at an
end.

After taking a biscuit from my pocket and a sip from my flask, I
turned to retrace my steps; but in this I was even less successful,
for the trail I had followed appeared to be growing less distinct,
and branched off in several directions. Hearing a rustling sound

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

in tlie underwood, I stood quite still; and presently, to my dcliplit,
I detected the head of a deer, about two hundred paces in front of
me. I raised my gun and fired, when the animal gave a bound,
and, as I fancied, fell.

Without thinking of the trail, I ran forward until I reached the
exact spot at which the creature was wlien I pulled the trigger, but
he was nowhere to be seen ; upon the leaves, however, there were
traces of blood, which I followed, hoping soon to come up witli the
wounded buck. The difficulty of tracing the blood upon the
ground became greater, and at length I was compelled to stop and
again try to find my way back. After many fruitless attempts,
I was forced to give up, and sit quietly down to think as to
my wisest course. The usual expedients by which the Indians
regain the lost trail were at that time unknown to me, and having
no compass, or any knowledge of the trend of the coast line, I was
uncertain in which direction to proceed. I had no watch, and was
therefore compelled to guess tlie hour, by which means alone I
could determine my position by the sun, as it wixs impossible to
obtain a sight of the sun's disc. My scanty stock of biscuit was
exhausted, and the difficulty of struggling through the scrub had
wearied me, so that I fancied it would be wiser to remain where I
was, until I could determine my course by the sunset : then I knew
that by travelling westward, I must reach the coast. A wolf came
near me while seated upon a fallen tree, but I failed to obtain a
shot at him, and soon heard his unpleasant howl far away in the
forest.

As soon as the twilight commenced, I began to think the night
would prove the most uncomfortable part of ni}^ adventure ; so, to
relieve the gloom, I kindled a fire and collected al the diy wood I
could lay my hand on, previously choosing a bare spot of open
ground, where there could be no fear of the forest taking fire.
Sleep was out of the question, for as soon as darkness set in, 1

LOST IN THE WOODS.

' d('lis2:hi,

:■

I front of

a bound,

lehed the

gger, but

''f

lero were

with the

■i
1

upon the

stop and

atteni})ts,

'^S

nk as to

e Indians

id havinjjj

' iM

ine, I was

''M

I, and was

s alone I

ossible to

■1

scuit was

scrub had

1 where I

n I knew

rolf came

1 obtain a |

lay in tlie

ihe night |

le ; so, to

ly wood I

1 of open

King fire.

Iset Id, I

,■■■'

could hear the various predacious animals busy in the distance, and
occasionally the light would fall upon the shining eyeballs of a wolf
or bear, several of whom were bold enough to approach so neai* that
I could see their forms distinctly. One gaunt old wolf drew so
close to me that I could see the glistening of his ugly fangs, and
]X3rceivc that his skin hung loosely upon his bones. Several times
this brute endeavoured to summon courage to face the flames, but
a burning piece of wood thrown at him sent him howling back int:>
the gloom. Nothing daunted, he returned to the attack whenever
the flames died away, until I put an end to his intrusion by sending
ii ball through his chest.

At the report of my gun, the whole of the forest seemed alive ;
birds, bats, and animals of every description, added their sounds to
the unearthly screaming of the stricken wolf. Although I had
collected a large stock of wood before nightfall, yet keeping three
fires burning, between which I placed myself, soon diminished my
supply, and made me impatiently long for the morning ; added to
this, I now began to suffer from great thirst, not having been able
to find any water from the time of my leaving for the woods. As
the sun gi'adually threw its beams high into the heavens, the
excitement of the nocturnal feeders grew less, and at sunrise I
found myself alone once more. After casting a careful glance
around on every side, I stepped from my lodging in quest of the
wolf I had shot. To my surprise, not a trace of the carcass was to
be found. I had no doubt he was killed by my ball, from the
quiet way in which he lay for an hour or two afterwards ; he must
therefore have been carried off by his comrades.

Directly the sun showed, I turned my back to it, and pushed my
way through the underwood, having previously reloaded my
double-barrelled gun. The further I went, the thicker the tangled
shrub became. My thirst was increasing, and my want of rest did
not improve my condition. For hom's I toiled on, yet never

M I'

KEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

Beemed to find the trace of liuman beings. Sometimes I went
through gigantic ferns, where it was quite impossible to steer my
course, as, once amongst them, everything else was hidden, tliey
rising many feet above my head. I could hear the deer push
through them. I occasionally fired at a squirrel or a bird, in the
hope that the report of my piece might reach a stray Indian, and
thus bring me help. Another night at length stared me in the
face. I searched for berries, but could find none, and water was
nowhere to be seen. The ground and wood were parched and dry.
I was so exhausted that it was with difficulty I could make a fire ;
notliing but the stimulus which the idea of a prowling wolf, or the
loud sniffing of the black bear, gave to my fears, induced me to
exert myself.

Towards the morning I noticed a thickness in the air, coming up
with the wind, and soon perceived the smell of smoke to windward
of my fires. At first I hoped it was some party sent to search for
me, and therefore discharged one barrel of my gun. What was my
horror, however, while listening for an answer to it, when I heard
the crackling of sticks and the roar of flames ! The forest was ou
fire. In my fear I rushed madly forward away from the flames,
but they were evidently fast overtaking me ; and past me on every
side galloped deer, wolves, and bears, while birds of various kinds
flew before the clouds of pursuing smoke. In the horror of the
moment my thii'st was forgotten ; the two dreadful nights I had
passed were obliterated from my memory, and I struggled on,
exerting all my remaining strength. As I burst through a dense
growth of ferns I observed an Indian lad running, not away from
the fire, but across it. I shouted, and the boy beckoned. In a
moment it occurred to me that my only chance of safety was to
follow the lad. Throwing my gun and powder away, I gave chase,
and notwithstanding his fleetness managed to keep him in sight.
Every nerve was strained, every sense on the alert, for already I

|l !

ADVENTURE WITH SPANISH SMUGGLERS.

could feel the heat from the roaring flood of flame. Onward
I staggered, the smoke now blinding me, and the oppression being
so great that I felt my efforts must soon terminate. Still, I fan-
cied through the distant trees I could see the fire gleam upon the
sea. From this time I know no more, for I reeled forward and
fell to the ground.

When I recovered myself, 1 was lying upon the sea shore, close
to the water, with several Indians squatting by my side. As I
recovered, I became aware of my hair having been burnt, and my
clothes very much scorched. It appears that the Indian boy told
two of his tribe that I was following him, whereupon they had
entered the forest in time to see me fall, and had at great peril
dragged me after them to a place of safety. These men proved to
be Indians of a friendly tribe, who had been despatched in search
of me, upon the promise of some twenty blankets if they brought
me in alive. They started the morning after I failed to return,
and had followed my trail as far as the first night-fires, but could
not proceed, the underwood having caught light from them ; and
so they were obliged to take to the coast, where they providentially
met with the boy, who stated my being close at hand ; and thus
my life was saved when lost in the Vancouver Island woods.

AD^^NTUEE WITH SPANISH SMUGGLERS.

At the close of the year 1850, 1 embarked from Jaffii on board an
English schooner, of small tonnage and still smaller accommoda-
tions, that had been loading Syrian wheat for the markets of either
Cork or Plymouth, whichever port the fickle winds might happen
to waft us to. A long sojourn in the east, and a frequent acquaint-
ance with fever in its most pernicious form, had induced my

ill

REMARKABLE ADVENTUHES.

medical advisers to recommend a sea voyage ; and a love of home,
added to a much-cherished desire to be an eyewitness of the
wonders of tlio then widely spoken of Exhibition, pointed out
England as the most desirable spot for renovating a nearly broken
constitution, and for mingling once more with the delights of
civilized towns and sensible companions. Accordingly, witli a
sallow face and a bottle of sulphate of quinine — the inseparable
companion of my travels — I took leave of the Holy Land, and lent
a hand in getting up the anchor and sheeting thj sails home.

The schooner being fairly under weigh and making good pro-
gress through the waters, I descended into the small and badlylit
cabin, which was to be my home for many days to come, there to
draw an inference from the features and conversation of my com-
panions, as to the probability of my having a pleasant or a dis-
agreeable voyage. The close, damp, confined smell of that gloomy
cabin — too low to stand upright in — too slippery and greasy to sit
with comfort in — too dark to see to read in — too full of lockers
filled with miscellaneous stores to hope for rest or quiet in — all
these things foreboded sad inconvenience and perpetual trouble ;
and such forebodings were amply verified. The accommodation
for passengers consisted of two berths of about five feet long, and
one and a half broad ; in some parts two feet, in others only a foot,
high. Here mattresses, etc., were spread at night; but in the
morning they were rolled up, to admit of free access to the bread
lockers. The space between these two berths was the sitting
apartment, with a small table rivetted to the centre, and a small
hatch under it, through which the cabin boy was perpetually
disappearing in search of cabin stores. Round the table in a semi-
circle ran some lockers, which served as seats, greasy with old age
and continual pawing. Off the cabin was the captain's state room,
which had much the appearance of a dirty bandbox, full of inde-
scribable odds and ends. How he ever found anything he put

AIA'ENTrKE WITH SPANISH SMUGCiLKKS.

f home,
of the

ited out

f broken

lights of

, -Nvith a

leparablo

and lent

ne.

;ood pi'O-

1 badlylit

, there to
nay com-
or a dis-

at gloomy

easy to sit

of lockers

et in — all
trouble ;
imodation
long, and
Inly a foot,
lut in the
Ithe bread
[le sitting
id a small
erpetually
lin a semi-
Ihold age
iate room,
ll of inde-
\ct he put

uwiiy, or ever found room to put anything away at all, was always
a puzzle to mc. A sninll glass skylight admitted the light in lino
weather, and the sea to a very inconvenient extent wlicn it was
rough. The schooner was caller a clipper, which term signilies, I
imagine from the experience I gleaned, a vessel that has never
a dry spot on her decks, from stem to stern, be she before or on a
wind.

Well, so far so bad ; but this is not one hundredth part of what
we had to undergo. The berth opposite to the one allotted to me
was occupied by a shipwrecked captain, who had lost his vessel in
a gale at Jaffa. His mate and an apprentice were also passengers ;
but, as there was no room for them aft, they slept with the sailore,
and only came down into the cabin at meal hours. This ogre of a
man, as I may fairly term him, who had, as he himself declared,
been the unluckiest of mortals from his youth up, was always
prognosticating something unpleasant to us all. When the wind
was fair, he argued that it would not last ; when foul, that it had
set in for a fortnight. A squall with him was the forerunner of a
gale ; a gale was to increase to a hurricane ; while on a really
stormy night, the smallest evil he predicted was the shifting of the
cargo, and the sudden disappearance of vessel and all beneath the
waves. Our own captain was a timid but very consequential little
man, and one that paid great deference to the suggestions and
ominous bodings of his passenger.

Besides all this, we had in good earnest very dismal weather the
whole voyage home, and this was nothing but what was to be
expected in the depth of winter. The mate and the men were
perpetually wet ; the cabin boy, who was also cook, led a life in
comparison to which that of a slave must be quite enviable. The
iire in the galley was always being put out by the sea ; the mate
gvowled for his coffee, the captain for a dry shift of clothes, and
the unhappy boy had to bear the brunt of all. He was punched by

IlEMABKABLE ADVENTURES.

tho men, cuffed by the mate, roared at by the captain, and never
slept, I should think, for whole weeks together, for more than
twenty minutes on a stretch. I need not hero refer at length to
the miseries I suffered in being cooped up with such unseemly
beings; the disgusting meals, the loathsome table cloth, the
incessant alarms, both false and well founded; wet men, with
dark lanterns, rushing into the cabin at all hours of the night, to
see how the time went, or in search of a block, or a marline spike,
or a pump tack, or some requisite for the frequently occurring
casualties. SufSce it to say, that we had a rich variety of mishaps,
and all the ogre's predictions were verified, except the total loss of
the vessel and its hands. We sprang a leak; the cargo shifted
slightly ; the sails were torn all to tatters ; there was hardly a
sound rope left in the rigging; the mainmast had 9j.«ruD.g; the
skylight was washed away ; a poor fellow had fallen overboard in
a calm, and was drowned ; and, as we neared the Straits of
Gibraltar, nightly adventures took place with outward-bound
vessels, each one of which seemed bent upon our utter destruc-
tion, coming so close upon us in the dark of the night as to cause
the greatest confusion and dismay.

Thus had we been knocked about and tossed on the ocean for
upwards of a month, when at last the winds grew more propitious,
and twenty-four hours* fair weather brought us in safety into the
bay of Gibraltar — a kind of ha^f-way house to all ships on their
voyage from the Mediterranean. We had no sooner passed the rock
than the wind chopped round again and blew a perfect hurricane
in our teeth. Now was a favourable opportunity to recruit the
exhausted strength of the crew by repose and wholesome provi-
sions ; but the master was too much afraid of his griping owner at
home, who regularly taxed his meagre bills each voyage, to dare to
incur the expenses attendant on^'the anchorage— such as harbour
and other dues, etc. We had, consequently, the mortification to

ADVENTUBE WITH SPANISH SMUGGLERS.

§cft wholo fleets of homeward-bound vessels lying snugly at anchor
off tlio forts, patiently abiding a shift of wind which miglit render
the navigation of the Gut practicable, wliilst wo ourselves were
cniising about day and niglit in fruitless attempts to stem the
tide, which sets in from Tariffa like a sluice.

One night, after we had been about a fortnight at this kmd of
work, beating tack and tack up the narrow passage, the wind
failing us entirely, it ysi^ found requisite to let go a bower anchor,
80 as to keep the vessel from drifting. Scarcely had the cable
been veered out, before we were boarded by one of those desperate
Spanish smugglers, who, in spite of the fate sure to attend their
detection, make it a frequent practice to visit homeward-bound
vessels becalmed in the Gut, to supply them with fresh meat, fruit,
vegetables, bread, etc., all which they sell at an exorbitant price ;
fis well they may, considering the risk incurred. Now my readers
must remember that all vessels from Turkey and Egypt are
furnished with unclean bills of health, and hence all communica-
tion with them is strictly forbidden, both by the British govern-
ment at Gibraltar, and by the Spanish government Though
steamers are continually passing and repassing, and Spanish gun-
boats cruising about on the look-out, these hardy bravoes set all
laws at defiance, and manage, in spite of all consequences, to hold
incessant intercourse with homeward-bound British vessels, from
which, as may be readily conceived, they derive no small emolu-
ment. To be fired upon was an every-day occurrence with them ;
and one sinister-looking fellow, the chief of the gang that boarded
us, had no less than fourteen bullet wounds in his body, all
which he showed us with the greatest exultation. The captain,
who had no scruples in breaking the quarantine regulations, gave
the smugglers to understand that, if we were detained next day by
contrary winds, they were at liberty to bring off a cei-tain quantity
L of beef, fruit, vegetables, etc., the whole of which was to cost about

Hi;;'

I \^

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

twenty dollars, or five pounds sterling. They perfectly understood
the order, although given in broken Italian, and cheerfully pro-
mised to be punctual in the fulfilment of the captain's wishes.
Intelligence of the expected good cheer sjon got wind amongst the
crew, and, tired as they were of sea dvjt, they impatiently awaited
the return of the boat. Where a captain sets the example of
breaking the law, his crew are not likely to be very particular on
the subject. The captain himself, however, as subsequently
appeared, having the dread of his owner before him, inwardly
hoped that a breeze might spring up and carry off the vessel
before the return of the smugglers should compel iiim to disgorge
the twenty dollars. The smugglers, however, did return; their
boat was laden, too, with many such things as a half-starved sailoi*
yearns for.

Meanwhile, a fair wind sprang up, and all hands were busily
employed weighing the anchor, just as the smugglers' boat
reached the vessel's side. The Spaniards made frantic gesticula-
tions to our captain to heave to ; but nothing would induce him to
do this. Finding this to be the case, they made fast the painter of
tbeir boat to the mainchains, and, springing upon deck, vociferated
loudly for payment ; and the captain, pretending not to understand
Avhat they said, referred them to me, as a person who understood
the tongue. Accordingly, on me they fastened, like angry wolves
upon their prey. My arguments to prove my innocence in the
transaction were useless. One ruffian was handling his dagger in a
most unpleasant manner ; and, little doubting but that he would
make good use of it if I held out, I was ol.liged to make a pre-
cipitate retreat to the cabin. I had hardly reached it, and secured
the cabiii door after me, when I heard a violent scuffle ensue on
deck. The mate and men, who had been too much occupied at
first to observe what was going forward, rushed aft, on seeing one
of the Spaniards dive down the cabin ladder after me. In his rage

INUNDATION OF THE RHONE.

nderstood
•fully plo-
t's wishes,
longst the
Ly awaited
cample of
ticular on
)sequently
inwardly
the vessel
to disgorge
urn; their
,rved sailoi*

v^ero busily
rlers' boat
I gesticula-
uce him to
painter of
vociferated
understand
understood
gry wolves
Qce in the
iagger in a
, he would
take a pre-
nd secured
) ensue on
ccuTi'ied at
seeing one
[n his rage

to gi'atify his revenge, the chief smuggler placed ten dollars in the
captain's hands to obtain his permission to fire a single shot at me
through the the skylight. I need not say tliat such a proposition
was replied to by the immediate forcible expulsion of the Spaniards,
who were bundled unceremoniously into their boat. The vessel
speedily distanced them ; but just as I reached the deck again, the
loud report of a pistol, aimed at me, rang in my ears, and the
splinters from the companion hatch, which the ball had stiiick,
flew high up in the air. So nearly was I becoming a victim to the
mean trickery of the worthless captain, and to the insatiable
revenge of the Spaniards !

The whole adventure was calculated to leave the impression
strongly on my mind that, if we venture to do what is improper, as
the captain manifestly had done iii breaking through the harbour
regulations, and encouraging these reckless men, we can never be
8nre of the consequences. The smallest deviation from what is
entail the most serious ai

rignt may
who yield to it.

painful

upon

A LADY'S ADVENTURE DUEING AN INUNDATION

OF THE KHONE.

We had disembarked at the great port of Marseilles, the landing-
place from the French province of Algeria. My companions took
their places at once for Avignon ; but I wanted to see the old
town of Aries, a place deservedly interesting, not only for its
ancient Roman memorials, but its dearer Christian memories ; I
therefore only took mine as for that city, having arranged to join
my friends in a few days at their hotel in Avignon.

The season was late in autumn, and, were we speaking of India,
it might be briefly described as the rainy season ; for such rain,

EEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

following a summer of extreme heat, has seldom been seen. Even
on shipboard v/e had murmured at that disagreeable tautology, rain
on sea. Notwithstanding the pertinacity of the skies, however, I
descended at Aries. I wanted to see its Coliseum, where gladiators
had fought, and martyrs of Jesus had died. I ^^ anted to see, also,
the great old cemetery of the Komans, where some of those con-
querors of ancient Gaul had been laid in dust.

I saw the Coliseum, built by the proud Komans, and saw now,
under its grand old walls, the otherwise houseless poor of modern
•days had erected their miserable sheds with almost Irish ingenuity.
I saw the modem women of Aries, reminding one of the matrons
of ancient Eome. I thought of Caesar and of Gaul ; I thought of
a greater than Caesar, and of his greater yet lowlier followers.
And so, having thought of Christian times and Roman times, in
this old city of Gaul, I set off in search of iho metery of its
mighty conquerors.

The rain fell, sometimes heavy, sometimes light, but always con-
stantly. I had no guide, and relied on finding what I wanted by
turning the words " Eoman cemetery " into French — a sort of
phraseology which much perplexed the kind people who wished to
direct me. I saw, however, stone coffins built into rude modern
stone walls, as the boundary of fields ; and I saw, beside farm-
houses, cattle drinking out of stone troughs that once had held
the body of a proud Roman. Morsals of antiquity, put to uses vile,
were seen all around ; but it was with much difficulty I r ail out
my way to the vast field of the dead, for which I lo . -i, A
strangely impressive scene it was — one of havoc and deso; \^ lod..
The antiquary, the moralist, the Christian, might there lind
interesting matter for thought.

Two reasons made my survey a hasty one : first, the grass was
long and wet, among which lay the broken stones of the tombs, and
I hid wet from above and beneath ; and secondly, and far more

IJJUNDATION OF THE IlHONE.

Even
ogy, rain
)weYer, I
gladiators
see, also,
lose con-
saw now,
f modern
ingenuity.
3 matrons
ihoug^t of
followers.
1 times, in
tery of its

[iways con-
antfcd by

a sort of
wished to

iQ modern

side farm-
had held
uses vile,
ir ad; out
), i.o i> A

Ideso/ !i.^ ior..

I there iiud

grass was
Itombs, and
k far more

effectively, my place was taken in the diligence to Avignon ; and
before railways changed our customs, it is well known that tho
only unanswerable plea that could bo made for resisting tho
entreaties of friends to stay with them, was to say at once, " I have
taken my place." So I had taken mine ; and not even Eoman
antiquities would have induced me to linger, even if my wet feet
had not also felt more ready to hasten back to Aries than to linger
in that wilf^ field of the long ago dead.

It was in the afternoon that I entered the diligence for Avignon,
where I was to rejoin my friends at an appointed hotel. The end
of October was approaching, and the torrents of rain that had
fallen for some days, had by no means ceased ; but I felt quite
comfortable when once seated in the Srst place of the coupe.

The rain had increased, and darkness began to gather, when I
became sensible that some unusual cause of interest or inquiry had
arisen between the rest of the passengers and the conductor, who,
at each descent from his elevated seat in the hanquette^ was eagerly
questioned by them ; while he appeared as eagerly to question all
persons whom he encountered on the road. The further we went
the more did this sort of commotion increase ; heads were pro-
jected from the windows of " the interior " and the roiondey and
anxious inquiries were evidently made ; but I was too secluded in
my " first place " to be able to hear the cause of an anxiety, which,
indeed, I did not at all share, simply because I thought it could
not concern me. I soon began to observe that, at every hamlet
we passed, a short halt was made ; tho diligence wae surrounded
by seemingly anxious people, and the passengers spoke to them
still more anxiously. Our conductor, a fine active young man, had
been all along impatient of delay, but he became more and more
so ; and each successive driver, who was taken up with each tresh
set of horses, was either more and more sulky, or more boisterous
and daring. There was evidently sometliing the matter ; but T

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

luul tlio coupe all to myself, and, not caring to open the window
and let tlie rain in, merely to hear what sounded to me as a rude
jal)ber of foreign tongues, I acted a thoroughly English part, and,
drawing myself into my snug corner, listened to the splashing of
water around us, and thought it was very well to feel dry when so
many must be wet. I saw, nevertheless, that as darkness deepened,
my fellow-passengers dropped rapidly away ; luggage, intended to
have seen Avignon, was hastily made to descend, amid the
entreaties of passengers, the vociferations of helpers and lookers-
on, and the indignant exclamations of the excited conductor, who
evidently felt each moment of lost time to be more and more
haras 'ng. At last he would no longer be delayed by stopping to
take Qc uggage ; he let out his passengers, only crying to them
that they vould find their goods at a future time in Avignon, and,
scarcely waiting till their feet touched the ground, shouted out,
Allez ! and on we dashed. The last we thus let down was a
Frenchwoman, who had long seemed resolved to share whatever
fate might lie before her boxes, which of course contained the robe
that few Frenchwomen, under any circumstances, can forget ; but
slie, too, finally descended at a poor house by the way-side, saying
something of the necessity of trying to save herself, but affirming,
in touching though vehement tones, that her trunks were doomed
to perish, and without resource. The conductor flinging out his
hands in answer, was springing up to his seat in the hanqnette,
muttering that he then must perish with them, when a sudden
thought must have struck him that something was still in the
coupe. He opened the door, looked in, and said with em-
phasis —

" Will you keep your place ?"

" Without doubt : I am going to Avignon.'*

" Brave woman ? allons ! — vive les AngJaises !" he cried, clapped
the door, and on we drove.

INUNDATION OF THE RHONE.

window
IS a rude
•art, and,

astog o^

when so
leepened,
tended to
imid the
i lookers-
actor, who

and more

toppWAg t^
ng to them
ignon, and,
liouted out,
own ^vas a
re whatever
,ed the robe
|forget; hut
.side, saying
it affirming,
rere doomed
jing out his
i6 hanqnettej
jn a sudden
stiU in the
with em-

ried, clapped

I knew I got praise, and I liked it, especially from a Frendi-
man ; but liow I came to deserve it I knew not.

The darkness grew intense : deep silence succeeded the recent
commotion ; the conductor only spoke at intervals to the driver,
and then it was in that deep-toned voice which always indicates
tuixiety. I felt, rather than heard, that he exhorted him to sp(3ed ;
the driver's voice, in reply, seemed buried in his throat. The
sound of water was on every side. Surely, I began to think, it is
not merely rain.

Our road lay along the course of the Illione — " the arrowy
Ehone," so swift and strong ; but, though I knew that, the idea of
danger from it had never crossed my mind ; even still I imputed the
urgent haste, the anxious voices, or still more anxious silence of
the men, to the fact that the heavy rains had made them wet and
out of temper. In critical moments, or circumstances of much
anxiety, speech is always repressed ; the loud and eager voices of
the two men were hushed, and not a human or living thing appeared
to be on the road. A low remark, or a brief exhortation to speed,
was all that was heard from the active conductor ; wliile our last
driver soon ceased to utter the cries, expostulations, and abusive
epithets which a French postilion employs in aid of the terrible
whip, by whose sound only the horses are driven.

Thus, in silence and darkness, I rested content, till a sudden
dash of water over the windows of the diligence convinced me that
rain was not the cause of fear. I rose to the front windows and
looked out. To my astonishment, all that was visible of the six
white horses, harnessed three and three f^breast, was just the top
of their broad flat backs rising above the water ; even their short
tails, wound up in straw, were submersed.

"We are in a river," said I to myself; "not in the river, un-
doubtedly. But what can be done ? The conductor will not drown
himself or me, if he can help it."

"^tm

BEMAEKABLE ADVENTURES.

ii!l

INUNDATION OF THE RHONE.

-. I .i'.-,

.^^^'S

;^>

I drew back to my corner, supposing that we were crossing some
part of a river, but never imagining that the river was crossing us.
The men kept unbroken silence ; nothing save the splashing and
dashing of water was heard : it went over the top of the dih'gence,
and streamed down again over my windows, so that I could not
see the least bit through them. I felt the men were not asleep,
and I began to feel that they were deeply anxious ; I tried if it
were possible to open the window and ask what was the matter, but
I soon saw it was wiser to let the water stay outside than to admit
it in. I rested in the same silence till a slight ascent in our road
became perceptible : as soon as this was the case, the voice of the
conductor burst out ; he called, he cried, he implored, scolded,
promised, urged the apparently sulky driver; he impelled the
horses himself ; he seemed ready to jump down and help them to
draw ; the driver, too, awoke ; his terribly resounding whip went
like a succession of pistol shots ; his voice helped it, loading the
poor terrified animals with all sorts of tenderly abusive epithets ;
calling them hogs, robbers, little rascals, demons, cowar«'i, inter-
spersed with encouragements and formidable threats. The con-
ductor was standing up, leaning over and looking round. On we
went up-hill, evidently rising out of water, and driving as for life
or death. "VVTien, all at once — plash ! — down we went, or else up
came the water, I know not which ; I thought we had plunged
into the river at last. It was a startling moment, and I uttered a
little scream, though no one heard it. The horses were plunging ;
even their white backs no longer appeared like a line of light
when I tried to see ; and I heard an exclamation from the con-
ductor, that went to say something that sounded certainly very like
a declaration that we were lost. It was almost time to get afraid,
and I had just formed the determination to be so, .d to remain
quiet no longer, when a shout burst over my head — a cry not of
terror but joy ; it was echoed by the driver ; the foam of water was

REMARKABLii ADVENTURES.

(

lashing over us, but we were iisceiiding. With great dilfieulty 1
got the window partly opened, and called up to the hanquette.
"What is the matter, conductor?" "We are saved! we are
saved ! Be quiet now ; shut the window," he said ; and I saw the
lights of Avignon dimly gleaming through the mist. W^e were
closer to it than even he had known. The whip cracked, the
horses flew up the rising ground, the water lashing over them : at
full gallop we dashed through the old gate of the city ; no revenue
officei*s or customary formalities stopped us ; but straight on we
di'ove into a large coach-house or covered shed of some sort.

Here our conductor was instantly suiTOunded by eager inquirei-s ;
anxious faces circled us in a crowd. Breaking through all, he ran
to the coupe, took me out like a bundle of goods, and put me down,
above my knees in water ; then, finding I could not, or would not,
wade on in it, he snatched me up in his arms like a child, ran
across a street, kicked open the door of a house, and di'opped me
into the passage within it.

A woman, with a white face and long thin candle in an equally
long thin candlestick in her hand, came to it, and would evidently
Jiave kept it closed if she could. By the light of that candle I
saw what the good conductor's exertions or anxieties must have
been ; he was a strong, active, ruddy-complexioned young man ;
but now he was singularly pale, and large drops of what seemed to
be cold perspiration were falling from his forehead. His chest
heaved, as if from long pent-up breath. He said a hasty word to
the staring woman — I only heard him utter " brave woman " as he
pushed me in, and, before she could recover sufficiently from her
surprise to speak, he had disappeared.

I saw her look after him quite aghast, and, turning my head to
the street, beheld a crowd of persons flocking to her open door like
mosquitoes attracted by the candle. Her face, one might think,
was enough to di-ive them back ; but, in addition, all her energy

INUNDATION OP THE RHONE.

[liculty 1
anqndte.
wc are
[ saw the
VVe were
;ked, tlie
tlieni : at

revenue

ht on we

)rt.
inquirei-s ;

ill, he ran
; me do\vn,
would not,
child, ran
ropped me

an equally

1 evidently
at candle I
must have
)ung man;

seemed to

His chest

ty word to

■aan " as he

y from her

Uy head to

in door like

[ight think,

ler energy

was required to get the door closed : she then moved the caudle
for mo to follow her, and went up-stairs, ushering me into a dirty,
most repulsive, and veiy cold chamber.

*'Do you not think I had better go to anothtT house?" 1

said.

'• On the contrary, I think you had better stay where you are.
You ask me wliat I think ; I tell you what I thinh, but not what I
wish" slio replied ; and, lighting a much shorter bit of candle, left
it with me and went away.

I was wet from head to foot ; cold, and in want of a warm drink,
and something to eat : fire, too, was an absolute necessity. I went
out on the staircase, and saw her walking about below it, as if
attempting to barricade her house. I called down, and requested
a fire. The candle waved a negation ; but, in addition to its ex-
pressiveness, she added, ** Fire ! No !" and went on.

I watched, shivering, till she repassed.

" Can I have supper ?"

" Supper ! Are you mad ?" and with a doubly negative wave,
;amo back with a chilling emphasis, " No ! no ! a thousand times
10 !

I crept back to my cold, black-looking chamber. The rain had
)r some time ceased to fall, and, never having conceived a notion
)f an inundation, I was totally at a loss to account for all these
wry unusual symptoms. At last the idea of a revolution occurred

mo. " Yes," 1 said to myself, " there is certainly a revolution,

[nd at Avignon, with all its hideous, bloody memories." I shivered.

Jut then I was cold as well as frightened ; and the cold I hoped to

it rid of, if I could not the fear. I therefore took off my wet
lothes and went to bed. But to sleep was impossible. The house

)or was assailed by knocks and loud calls outside. These forced
^y poor hostess to appear at a window, from whence she pathetically

iplored the crowd of persons below to consult their own safety.

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

and begone from a house that was certain to be destroyed. This
was an additional solace for me. The tumult in the street kept
me awake all night.

CHAPTEE II.

After such anight as that described in the previous chapter, one
feels less disposed to rise in the morning. But day had only broke,
when my hostess burst into my chamber. The candle was not in
her hand, but her face looked even worse.

" Mademoiselle, have the goodness to rise instantly."

"Why?"

" You must leave the house this moment.*'

" Why r

" Because if you don't go this moment, you will never go at all
— no never ! You will be lost. We shall all be lost. We have
no provisions. We must shut up all below, and take refuge at the
top of the house. We cannot maintain you."

" What is the matter ?" I cried, jumping up with more alacrity
than I had believed myself capable of. " Is it a revolu "

"What is the matter? Are you ignorant, then? — and you
travelled last night ^ Go to the door, and you will see."

I dressed quickly, and went to the door. The house was a comer
one, and the street was rather more elevated than those adjoining
it. The day was bright, and all was still. My hostess saw me
looking complacently from her door. She caught my hand, and
drew me out to the corner of the house, making me look down the
next street ; and there, to my surprise, I saw an advancing tide, the
water flowing on in a full stream, and people in boats saving some
of their goods from the houses.

"Are not the waters come?" she cried, in a tone of bitter
triumph. ** Now, then, save yourself — ^begone — leave us. We are
lost"

INUNDATION OF THE RHONE.

red. This
treet kept

jbapter,one
only broke,
3 was not in

5ver go ftt all
t. We have
refuge at tlie

more alacrity

lu ''

a?— and you

>»
ee.

e was a comer
Lose adjoining
jBtess saw me
[my hand, and
[look down the
cing tide, the
;s saving some

Itone of bitter
reus. We are

" Where are the hotels ?" I asked.

" In the waters," was the answer ; and it was a true one, for all
the good hotels, being near the river, were the soonest submerged.
Many Engli8h travellers on their way to Italy were made prisoners
in them. My friends — where were they ? To seek them was im-
possible.

" What shall I do ?" I said, much more humbly than I had yet
gpoken.

" Do what you can, only leave us. Be quick — go — leave us ;"
land with a wave, as if of an imaginary candle, she disappeared, and
1 1 never saw her again.

As I looked round in a sense of forlomness, I saw a young eoun-
^tryman in a clean bright blue blouse, with a countenance that
» might be said to carry a good letter of introduction in its frank,
^honest, kind expression. He was talking with an equally pleasant
tlooking young woman. I went over to him, explained my position,
;^id I was a stranger, as my speech testified ; that I had narrowly
^escaped being in the waters the night before, and now wanted to
Ipnd a lodging where I could be kept out of them.

The young woman evidently seconded my appeal, and, after a

jw moments' consultation between themselves, he turned to me,

)k off his casquette, and asked if I would allow him the honour

conducting me to some houses in the high part of the city, where

might obtain lodgings. I gladly allowed him that honour. 1

id no luggage, no bag even, to remove ; and, having my bonnet

my hand, and my still wet clothes on, I set off with my new

^end. My hostess, indeed, had put my bonnet in my hand, and

her retreat closed up her house ; she sought for no pay, and 1

^lieve my nightly refuge was only accorded to me for the con-

ictor's sake.

i^Guided by the polite Frenchman, I soon ascended above the
Ivancing waters. The streets then were dry, the air quite warm j

IJKMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

bu( the aspoct of the sky was curious ; it was not darlc, nor ^i*oy,
nor wliat we call lowering, but it seemed so low that, while blue
and bright, one might think to take hold of it from the tops of the
houses.

We applied in vain at sevoml lodging-houses ; they would not
tak(^ lodgers now, because provisions might fail ; they hud no firing,
or made some such excuse. At last my friendly guide mannged to
get me a large clean chamber, at the veiy top of a very high house,
in the highest part of Avignon, just near the foot of the vast rocky
hill on which stands the citadel. Here, leaving me with a tidy
old woman, he took an order for my luggage, with whi(;h, in im-
plicit faith, I intrusted him, and went off to seek my late conductor,
who had all my worldly possessions. I had eaten nothing from my
breakfast the day before : certainly a French breakfast is a nice, as
well as a substantial meal ; but, after twenty-four hours* fast, the
prospect of its repetition was particularly pleasing. My three
wants now were — fire, breakfast, and change of raiment. For the
last 1 must bide the time of another ; for the two former I pro-
ceeded to ask my new housekeeper. Brer ^t and fire! The
iitter astonishment in which my old hostesa xepeated the words
almost alarmed me. What! Breakfast and fire, when all the
world were in the waters ; when they had no provisions, no firing,
and never might be able to get any : did I imagine she was to
give me breakfast and fire, because she let me her chamber ?

I saw I must moderate my demands, and I took another tone.

W ell, just for this time, slie could give me a little coffee, and
sugar and boiled milk, and bread and butter, and — yes, if there
was nothing else — some eggs would do; I could then make an
English breakfast. And she would also give me a fire. She held
up her hands, liited her shoulders, eyed me as if thinking whether
I was quite in my right mind, and, for a further exposition of wliat
I was to expect from her, a\ ent over to a small closet, opened the

INUNDATION OF THE RHONE.

k, nor ^'py,
whilo blno
tops of the

y Nvonltl not
ud no fii'in?,
luanaged to
high house,
LC vast ro(;ky
with a tidy
vhich, in im-
te conductor, ,
ling from my
it is a nice, as
ours' fast, the
r. My throe
ent. For the
former I V^'o-
id fire! The
,ed the words
when all the
ions, no firing,
uc she was to
amber ?
other tone,
tie coffee, and
■yes, if there
hen make au
ire. She held
nking whether
osition of what
;et, opened the

door, and showed me it was very neat, and quite empty ; she said
I niiL,dit keep my wood there: then to another, and exliibited cups
and crockery ware in excellent orc'er ; then on to a really charming
littlo scullery, where pots and pans were all beautifully arranged,
and where she told me I must wash u}) all the things I used. I
repli('d, that all the domestic arrangements for housekeeping in a
single chamber were truly admirable and perfect; but my only
embarrassment was, that I had nothing to begin my housekeeping
with, and I was really desirous to use some of the cups, and plates,
and pans, before I washed them.

" Do so, then," she answered with a nod, and was moving off.

" But I have nothing to use them with."

« That is your affair."

I began a pathetic tale ; told how narrowly I had escaped from
being lost in the waters of the Rhone ; how I was wet, cold, and
hungry ; and how much I felt the necessity of hot cafe au lait to
i-esuscitate me.

" It was truly dreadful," she remarked ; but her eyes spoke of a
melting mood — " truly dreadful ; but if people would travel, what
else could they expect ? The English travel on the high roads ;
they spent their money, and lost their lives as well as their time ;
but if they chose to die on the high roads, that was not her affair."

** Ah ! but the French are so kind. I might have been left, at
all events, knee-deep in the waters all night, if a good Frenchman
had not carried me in his arms into a house."

" Well, yes ; it was necessary to be good to foreigners — that was
; well understood," the mollified old dame began to mutter.

" Yes ; and then, see now, madame, it was this very reputation
I of the French that made me so confident that you would give me
I coffee, and such things, till I can get them for myself."

'* Well, if you will, for this once."

" Yes ; and you will make me a fire ?"

I I

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

*' Make a fire ! Heard one ever the like ?"

" At least you will give me wood ?"

" Well, yes, it is necessary to be kind to strangers ; — yes, for this
once ; but you must make your fire."

" Very well, that I will do."

I was delighted to find that politeness and good humour really
do succeed with the French. My breakfast soon appeared : while
I waa enjoying it in came my hostess, dragging a tall bundle oi*
brushwood, followed by a man loaded with great logs. This was
all stored in the closet, and the good dame told me I might make
my fire, but exhorted me to be saving of the wood, as she could
not, on any terms, get me more ; all the wood, as well as coffee,
milk, eggs, bread, meat, butter, and everything else one wanted,
being, with all the world, in the waters.

" Now, then, make your fire," said she, putting a box of matches
on the table ; " but if you take my counsel, you will not waste the
matches, since we can get no more — positively no more."

" Are the matches in the waters also ?"

" Undoubtedly. Now you speak to me no more — absolutely no
more. I have done my duty. It is necessary to be good to
strangers. Now light your fire, and warm some water, and wasli
up those cupp, and mind you never speak one word to me any
more."

She went away, dear old thing, satisfied she had done her duty
by f stranger ; and I set lo work to obey her directions. But,
alas ! after many efforts, I had to call upon her to complete the task.

She began to work in her own way — quite a different one from
mine — building up the logs in an artistic manner, on scientific
principles, and very soon had made me a charming fire while
giving me a lesson how to make it. Somehow I never did leani
that lesson practically, and each day it was repeated during the
whole fortnight that I was a water-bound prisoner in the good

INUNDATION OP THE RHONE.

; — yes, for this

humour really
3peared: while
tall bundle oi"
[ogs. This was
1 1 might make
)d, as she could
well as coffee,
Lse one wanted,

box of matches
ill not waste the

iiore.

—absolutely no

to be good to

vater, and wasli

yord to me any

i done her duty
irections. But,
►mplete the task.
Bferent one from
er, on scientific
ming firo while
never did learn
ited during the
ler in the good

dame's house ; and each day 1 had my fire lighted while she was
I teaching me how to do it, and marvelling at my invincible
ignorance.

Just as I had settled myself to the enjoyment of its blazo, and
was witnessing the process of evaporation taking place from
my garments, in walked my honest-looking Frenchman, as honest
as his looks, with my travelling bags in his hand, and followed by
a youth with my portmanteau on his shoulder. He congratulated
me with real friendliness on being so comfoiiable, assured mo I
might rest in peace, as there was no danger, for all the old
,^ woman said, the waters would reach me in my elevated lodging ;
Sand of that he was glad, for the conductor had told him I was
"'"'a. woman of courage, and my life was worth saving, though
;|^ he had been much afraid it might be lost in the flood the night
before. I felt that as men become heroes often by accident,
' womei? may appear to be heroines from ignorance.

"But what has caused this flood?" I asked this intelligent
young man. " Can the late rains, heavy though they were, so
ffect the great river Rhone ?"

" It is not our river," he replied, " that is to blame ; but that
ery ill-natured one, the Durance. In autumn, when there is
ucli rain, it becomes truly wicked ; the snows that melt in the
ountains, up there in Dauphine, swell the torrents that pour
to it, and then it meets our river, which is good enough by itself,
ut when it is charged with these bad neighbours, you see, mado-
oiselle, it grows very mischievous. The poor people down below
ere will lose all."

You, I hope, are not ^"u danger of loss," I said, at the same time
iresenting him with soiue money as compensation for his trouble
" Pardon me," he said mth a bow, " I am not in the waters,
d can take nothing ; I am happy to have served you. The boy
ho carried the tnmk will be glad of a trifle."

■f i«

REMAuKABLE ADVENTURES.

I tliank(>d him gratefully : ho went away bowing and smiliii;j,
and saying ho had only done as he would wish one of my counlry
peophi to do by him if ho were a stranger in England. I siLjhi.'d
as ho closed the door, thinking if it were certain that an Engh'sli
countryman would take all tliis trouble for a foreigner, without
any notion of reward. Then I oj)cnod my portmanteau, which
was only strapped down, without any lock. All was right, and,
more surprising, dry within; and I soon luxuriated in my change
of circumstances to such a degree, as, with too common sclliishuess,
to forget for a time that all the world was in the waters.

I got coffee a second time, and an egg for my dinner ; I f ared
to ask for more, for even that was obtained with a great deal of
manoeuvring. However, the very next day I reconnoitred from my
window the position of the house, and satisfied myself that then^
could be no obstacle to my mounting the vast hill of rock on which
ray window looked. Accordingly, notwithstanding the warning of
my hostess, I left the house, and soon mounted the heights. The
view from thence was curious.

Avignon, the city of the popes, was called in old time, bef(n-e so
many of its churches were destroyed, La Ville Sonnante — tin*
ringing town — from the number of its bells; but now even the
diminished number of its bells were silent, for the churches weiv
inundated, most of them being full of water to the pulpit tops;
and the houses in the lower part of the town were almost buried.
The deepest silence prevailed : it was like Venice, if tlio voices ol
people and the sounds of music were unheard in that water-city ;
but tiie jioor people who went about the inundated streets in boats
weve quit 3 unlike the gondoliers and the grand canal passengers.

As far as one could well see around the town, the mighty
Rhone appeared to be the conqueror and possessor of the lunl
that had lately held it lU. The tops of the trees on islets wciv
covered ; only some of the upper parts of taller trees on its bank^

INUNDATION OF THE IIHONE.

my conuU-y
L I siiiiuMl
an En"2;li^l^
tier, without
tteau, \\\nc\\
% ri^ht, aiul,
I lUY cluiugo

!r3.

creat tU'ill of
ircd from my
lelt* that ther(>
roelv oil Nvhicli
10 Nvariiinp; of
heights. Tho

imc, hcfove so
5omiante — tlx^
now eve 11 tho

churches weiv
■e pulpit tops;

almost buried,
the voices oi

^at watev-city;

;treets in hoais

Ll passengers.

L the mighty

lor of the laivl
on islets weiv

es on its Ij-^^^^^-

wero visible above the flood, and looked liko water-marks to show
its extent ; and the spires and turrets of tlio old papal city alone
tow(;red up haughtily over tho waste of waters. All traffic ami
ti'avelliiig were suspended, business was at a stand, only a few
8hoi)s in liigh situations were open ; and the stillness of this large,
;.busv, and ivputt dly noisy city was almost oppressive." It was
, useless to ask lur any one or anything — tho post-office was in tho
:* waters ; the letters were in the waters ; all tho world, in tlio brief
*sum total of Fr(Mich speech, was in the waters. But my walk
^yielded me more than a curious view. As I descended the hill, 1
f happened to take a wrong turn, and found myself in a nice and
t pretty little market. Never was market more grateful to my eyes.
'The people who had goods to sell there looked very gloony, and
those who camo to buy looked very cheerful. Tho reason, ^bjy
■itold me was, that the latter got better bargains than they sh juld
#get when provisions ought to be so dear; and tho former, hiving
me from the country with their provisions, could not sc.dl
em beeause customei-s could not get to them. Hero I got the
ost deli(.'ious lamb and the sweetest autumn violets. The lamb
as so delicate, one could not think it what is vulgarly called
lUtehers' ?iioat; neither was it so rich as game. I believe its
elicucy arose from the ereatures being fed on the Cevenues
,ount. ins, which are covered with aromatic herbage.
At iho end of a fortnight tho rain, whicii for some previous
ys had been light, but pretty 'onstant, quite ceasi^d; tho sun
me out of its thin shroud, and a breezi; snrang up. 31 y old
stess came to give me her daily hsson in lire-making, and
nounecd that soon all the world would be out of the waters. I
nt out on the hill, and saw the flood was rapidly retiiing; the
y ground was seen, where before tho Wir rs had prevailed. The
el of the air was the most remarkable 1 have ever known : I can
dy compare it to a warm vap ur bath, if you can fancy the sun

'f'l

■l I

. i I

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

shining through a vapour bath. The sky was blue and bright, the
air quite stilJ, but both hot and moist — wetting while it warmed
you. The aspect all around was most deplorable ; worse, now that
the flood was retreating, than when it prevailed: misery was
apparent now ; it had been covered before — ruined dwellings and
goods ; people knee-deep in mud, trying to gain access to what
was so lately their home, or their shop. When I saw the melan-
choly looks of so many, my heart reproached me with my laio
pleasant and selfish contentment.

I soon walked down to the town : I saw many persons cleaning
mud and water from houses and churches. The pulpit of one of
the latter was quite filled with mud. A melancholy looking
English carriage — ^known to be English by having a "lady's maid"
seated outside, whereas a femme de chamhre would have been witli
her lady inside — drove languidly out from a hotel : an old lady
only was in it, and it moved away with the subdued air of a
besieged party allowed to retire.

I found my friends at their hotel, and waded in through soft
tnud and water, to astonish them with my appearance. My house-
keeping had agreed with me, and they did not take me for a
spectre, though they had, they declared, been horribly uneasy for
my fate. I assured them I had been equally so for theirs, as I
was told their hotel was in the waters.

I returned to my single chamber, to take leave of my kind olii
hostess. I assured her, if she ever came to England, it woulc
give me pleasure to teach her how to light one of our coal fires.

" And that, mademoiselle," she said, "I think you may well do:
for it is my belief you would never have known how to do any out
thing if you had not been with me, when all the world was in tk
waters."

And so my teaching time ended when the Rhone and Duranft
withdrew to their proper limits.

A NIGHT AMONG CHINESE PIRATES.

•59

id briglit, the
le it wanned
)rse, now that
: misery was
iwellings and
ccess to what
^wthe melan-
with my lat^

rsons cleaning
alpit of one of
icholy looking
"lady's maid"
tiave been with
I: an old lady
bdued air of a

in through soft
^ce. My house-
take me for a
ibly uneasy foi
for theirs, as 1

of my kind oIg
Igland, it woulc
)ur coal fires.
)u may well do;
to do any out
rorld was in the

Ine andDuranct

I I have written in a lively strain, for I have recorded on paper
#he facts and circumstances of what befell me, simply as they
■furred. Yet it would be ungrateful not also to record an
topression of humble and hearty thanks to Him who saveth our
Mie from destruction, and also crowneth us with loving-kindness
%id tender mercies.

A NIGHT AMONa CHINESE PIKATES.

tvERYBODY knows that the coasts of China are sadly infested with
ites. Of this ugly fact I was forcibly reminded as I stood on

tike deck of the good ship S , in which I was to sail from

Hong Kong to Amoy. As we were about to weigh anchor, a

i||Dat came alongside, from which several Chinese sailors clambered

i||lL deck and inquired for the captain. Having found him, they

^plained that they had been deputed by the captains of eight

18 which were bound for Kap-Ohe, to ask whether he would

^nsent to be their convoy for protection against the pirates. Our

^ptain having a well-armed ship, and being an old naval officer,

nothing loth to undertake the task. The two passengers

lyself and another) offering no objection, the bargain was soon

icluded, and we set sail. As the old barque stood out of the

rbour, with her eight clumsy-looking little junks around her,

looked very much like a hen with her chickens. The ten gims

It peeped out from her port-holes, however, qualified her to act

protecting part of the cock should occasion require.

i'or the first four days of our voyage the only enemy we had to

itend with was the strong head-wind, against which neither we

our convoy could make much progress. Every evening at

jet we were obliged, in compliance with the timorous usage of

Cpinese sailors, to come to an anchor in some bight or bay. To

li i!

ifiij

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES,

moil accustomed to travel by steam, this seemed slow work ; yet I
did not regret it, since it afforded me opportunities of going ashore
to visit several towns and villages on the coast, which are rarely
seen by Europeans. Wretched enough these outlying villages
looked. With their mud-built houses, their few and dingy sho]).s,
their narrow and filthy streets, where fat pigs strolled about, and
children, scarcely less fat, were their companions, they gave tin
visitor no very exalted idea of the so-called Celestial Empire
These sea-coast villages, however, mean-looking as they are, woull
in less populous empires rank as cities. They owe their existenc-
to the fisheries, which are so industriously prosecuted along tlit
whole seaboard of China.

But to return to our vovagfe. The wind, which for four dav
had so retarded our progress, on the fifth increased to somethim
like a gale. Our poor junks, and our puissant selves, had enouL'i
ado to hold our own. In the teeth of such a gale, progress \m
out of the question, and a safe anchorage for the night was l!i
chief anxiety. The only safe anchorage which seemed at a!
available, was that marked in the charts as Mico Bay. To reat:
that was the object for which we and our junks no'»v toiled hart
If we could only get round that headland, we should be safe. Ei
no I tack after tack still found us on the wrong side of that bli;
cape ; and at last we were forced to come to anchor in a small ai H
exposed bight outside of that Mico Bay which had been oi
" desired haven."

Wliile we were dropping anchor, the ship's carpenter (a Chiii.
man) came up to the captain, and with a look of importance in I:
face said, " That no good ship," pointing to a strange junk, wlii
was just then crossing our bows ; " she a pirate."

" Pirate !" exclaimed the captain, taking up his telescope ;i:
surveying the junk indicated. " I see no signs of piracy abc
her."

A NIGHT AMONG CHINESE PIRATES.

work; yet I

going asliore

ch are raruly

yii^g

villages

, dingy sl^^r^-
ed about, awl
tliey gave ih
estial Enipiv'.
•hey are, wo\il<l
tlieir existence
ated along tb

1 for four day^
sdto somethiiT.
ves, had enoiiL'l
ale, progress ^M
e niglit was tlv
seemed at a:
Bay. To rea(^
|iio'>y toiled liai'
lid be safe. ^
jide of tbat bit
jr in a small ai
|h had been o:

rpenter (a Chiv..
limportance in-
l:ango junk, wl"

lis telescope a'^
Is of piracy abo

The carpenter walked off, evidently in a luiff at the little
mijortance attached to his warning; and the suspected junk
liroppod anchor alongside of one of our convoy.
I Kight fell, and as dark a night as evil-doer could wish. About
nine o'clock, while I was trudging up and down the quarter-deck
^ith our captain, our eyes wore dazzled by a flash, followed
^stantly by the report of a gun. AYe stood still, looking rather
ijiau saying, "What can be the meaning of that?" Presently
Mere came another and another and another of these ominous
Hounds. Our captain rushed off, mustered all hands, gave orders
|p load all the guns, and clear for action. While this was being
ifcne — and it was the work of a very few minutes — the firing was
llill going on all around us ; though, whether it was directed
Ugainst our ship or others we could not tell. To find myself,
ace-loving man as I am, thus suddenly surrounded by "war's
rms," was not a little astonishing. Nor was my confidence
tort d when, on going into the cabin, I found the first mate
sied over the open arm-chest and powder magazine, handing
it pistols, muskets, cutlasses, cartridges, and other death-dealing
cles. Man of peace though I was and am, I selected a cutlass,
nking that in an emergency it would be well to have a weaj)on
self-defence.

hus ai'med, I regained the deck, and found that the firing,
ugh less frequent, was still going on. " Fii-e right in amongst
m !" was the fiery young mate's exhortation to our old captain.
0, no," replied the captain : " when we can distinguish friends

foes, we'll fire ; but not till then."
t length the firing ceased, and darkness and silence returned.
we retained the impression that pirates were somewhere close
in us, and that we must be on the alert, lest, as is their custom,
should stealthily approach, clamber up the ship's stern, and
us by surprise. All that night the matches were kept lit, the

BEMARKADLE ADVENTURES.

men lay by their puna, and the captain and myself paced the deck.
A weary, long night it seemed. But day broke at last. Peering
throu«»:h its lirst grey light, we counted our jnnks and found them
all there. But where was the stranger which the carpenter had
ix)inted out as a pirate ?

" There she is I" cried the mate, " hugging the shore and makinof
her escape !"

The carpenter being called, was asked, " Is that the junk you
pointed out last night ?'*

•' Yes," was the quick reply.

Several guns were soon brought to bear on the fugitive. Tlie
word " Fire !" was given, and our first shot skipped along the
waves, but fell short. The second was not more successful. Tlie
third struck, and disabled the rover for a time ; but she soon
righted again, and stood away beyond further annoyance from our
shot.

The daylight being now clear, the captain ordered a boat to Ix
lowered, and boarded one of our junks to inquire into the cause v\
last night's uproai*. He was told that the junk which had jusi
sailed away had attacked one of our convoy, but had been beatt ii
off with the loss of several men.

And so ended our night of anxiety and suspense. But do w:
suppose, dear reader, that my story is ended ; for on that same duv
we saw a steamer rounding that headland which we had laboum
so hard to round and had not been able. What steamer she Ava^
or what was her errand to Mice Bay, we knew not. On our arriv;i:
at our destination, however, we ascertained that the steamer it
question was Her Majesty's Ship " Media ;" and that her missk
to Mico Bay was the destruction of a whole fleet of piratical junk?
a mission which she most effectually accomplished. Had wt
succeeded in our efforts to get into the anchorage of Mico 13iit
we and our convoy would probably have fallen a prey (thoujjl

ADVENTURES IN TUE NICODAU ISLANDS.

kced tlio ileck.
ast. Peering
d found them
carpenter bad

re and makinii

b tlie jnnk y

fugitive
3pcd

along

The
the
uccessful. The
; but she soon
>yance from our

not an easy prey) to the pimtieal fleet. Let this little iiui<leut in
|ny life remind us afresh of the watchful care and merciful dealing
Df God.

ed a boat to Iv

into the cause oi

which had jus'

had been beattB

so. But do w'
m that same day
WQ had labours
iteamer slie ^va^
On our arrivii
the steamer ii
that her missio
piratical jmife
ished. Had vt
e of Mico 15ay
a prey (thou^i

ADVENTUEES IN THE NICOBAK ISLANDS.

Jhb liairbreadth escapes of the servanis of God in the mission field

fcve singularly illustrated the protecting care of that fatherly iiand

lich watched over them. Nowhere perhaps has this been more

(early visible than in the missionaiy annals of the ]\Ioravian

brethren. The following curious details are given, in "Brown's

[istory and Memoirs," respecting Mr. Haensel, who laboured last

i^tury at tliu Nicobar Islands, in India, ..

'■^ Besides clearing the land and planting it, in order to procure

themselves the necessaries of life, the Brethren endeavoured

lessen the expenses of the mission, by making collections of

^ells, serpents, and other natural curiosities, which they sent to

mquebar for sale, as there was at that time a great demand for

luctions of this kind in various parts of Europe. At tho

jthren's garden near Tranquebar, Mr. Haensel, after his return

[that place, had a shop or work-room for the purpose of stuffing

and other animals, preserving them in spirits, or otlierwise

Ipariug them for sale ; and he sometimes employed two or three

ibar boys to assist him. In the neighbourhood of that town

re is a small serpent, called the split-snake. It is black, with

rhite streak along its back, dividing tho body longitudinally.

bite is extremely venomous ; and as it is a very slender

itm-e, it can insinuate itself into the smallest bole or cranny.

ithis means it often enters rooms and closets in quest of food, of

sh Mr. Haensel gives the following example. " There was a

says he, " in a dark part of my work-room, with a large,

IlEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

i: ii

I'M

clumsy lock upon it. One evening as I was attempting to open it
f suddenly felt a prick in my finger, and, at the same instant, a
violent electrical shock, as if I were split asunder. Not tliinking
of a sei-pent, I at first imagined that my Malabar boys had, in their
2)lay, wound some wire about the handle, and tliat it was by this I
was hurt ; and therefore I asked them sharply what they had done
to the door. They denied, however, that they had meddled with
it ; and when I made a second attempt to open it, I was attacked
8till more violently, and perceived the blood trickling down my
finger. I then returned into my room and sucked the wound till I
could draw no more blood from it ; after which I applied to it
some spirits of turpentine, and tied it up with a bandage ; but
being much hurried that evening with other business, I took no
further notice of it. In the night, however, it swelled, and was
extremely painf?-' In the morning, when I went into the work-
room, I thought I felt an unpleasant musky smell; and on
approaching the door already mentioned, the stench was altogether
intolerable. I again asked the boys what nasty stuif they had
brought into the room, for they were always playing themselves;
but they still denied that they knew anything about the matter,
Having procured a candle, I then discovered the cause of all the
mischief. About six inches of the body of a young split-snake
hung out of the key-hole, perfectly dead ; and on taking off the
lock, I found the creature twisted into it, and so 'nuch wounded h
the turn of the bolt, from my attempt to open ihv door, that it had
<Tied in consequence. It had been entering the room through the
key-hole, when I thus accidentally stopped its progress and w
bitten by it ; and considering the deadly nature of the serpent's
jioison, I felt thankful to God, that, though ignorant of the causf
of the wound, I applied proper remedies to it, in consequence o!
which my life was not endangered. I have been told that the hit?
of every serpent is accompanied, in a gi eater or less degi'ee, by>

ADVENTURES IN THE NICOBAR ISLiVNDS.

ig to Open it
10 instant, a
Slot thinking
Imd, in their
ft-as by this 1
tiey had done
meddled with
was attacked
ing down my
le wound till 1
applied to it
bandage ; but
aess, I took no
veiled, and was
into the wort
mell; and on
was altogether
stuff they had
ing themselves;
out the matter,
cause of all the
ng split-siiake

,u taking off the
ucb wounded I]
door, that it ha^
com through U

: ogress

and yi^

of tbe serpents
lant of the causf
In consequence o
Itold that the hit^

less degree, by ^

«}nsation similar to an electrical shock. Tlio name of split-snako
which is piven to this animal, wo considered as descriptive not so
much of its split appearance, us of the singular sensation occa-
sioned by its bite."

Mr. Haensol, in his frequent excursions along the coast, was

•ometimes benighted, and could not conveniently return home ;

)tut in these circumstances he was never at a loss for a bed. The

eater part of the beach consists of a remarkably fine white sand,

hich above the high-water mark is perfectly clean and dry. Into

[lis he easily dug a hole large enough to contain his body, and he

likewise formed a mound as a pillow for his head. He then lay

[own, and by collecting the sand over him, buried himself in it up

Id the neck. His faithful dog always lay across his body, ready to

give the alarm in ciise of the smallest danger or disturbance.

Though the Brethren had little or nothing to dread from wild

lasts on the Nicobar Islands, yet in their visits to other places they

sre sometimes in danger from them. On one of Mr. Haensel's

yages, either to or from Queda, a Danish ship hailed the vessel,

id approaching incautiously, ran foul of the stem and broke the

stafif. Having put into a creek, some of the sailors landed

a wood to cut down a tree to make a new one. Mr. Haensel

mpanied them, armed with a double-barrelled gun, with the

iw of procuring some fresh meat for supper. While they were

ork, he walked on the outside of the wood eagerly looking for

e game, and soon discovered among the high grass an object

h, by its motions, he mistook for the back of a hare. He

ediately took aim, and was just going to fire, when the animal

up and proved to be a tiger. Overcome with terror, his arm

(limtarily sank down ; he stood perfectly motionless, expecting

the animal would instantly spring at him and tear him in

Providentially, however, it seemed as much alarmed as

lelf, and after staring at him for a few seconds, turned slowly

REM.VRKABLE ADVENTURES.

ilid

round, and began to creep away like a frightened cat, with hig
belly close to the ground ; then gradually quickening his pace,
fled with precipitation into the distant recesses of the wood.

It was some time before Mr. Haensol recovered sufficient pre-
sence of mind to trace back his steps towards the beach, for his
heart still trembled within him. As he approached the shore,
there was a piece of jungle or low thicket before him, and he was
turning to the left to pass round by the side opposite the boat,
hoping he might yet find some game, when he observed the sailors
labouring hard to drag the tree they had felled towards the water,
and therefore he changed his course and went to their assistance.
No sooner had ho entered the boat, than he discovered on that side
of the jungle to which he was first going, a large alligator watching
their motions, and which he would certainly have met had he gone
by the way he originally intended. Thankful as he was for this
second deliverance, he could not help discharging his gun at the
animal's head ; and by the sudden plunge which it made into tlio
water, and the appearance of blood on the surface as it wa?
swimming to the opposite shore, it was evident the creature wa^
wounded. He saw it reach the land and crawl tliroi:Q:h the mud
into the jungle.

After the officers and soldiers who had accompanied the Brethren
to the Nicobar Islands w^ere all dead, and it was know.i that tlie
missionaries would not abandon their post, the government a;
Tranquebar required that one of them should act as the royal
Danish Kesident. This office was frequently a source of miicl
vexation, and even of danger, to them. The Danes, when the^
formed their first settlement on one of these islands, which thef
called New Denmark, had conveyed thither a considerable numbt
of cannon ; but after the death of all the soldiers, the can-iagt^
rotted to pieces, and the guns were suffered to lie on the ground
On one occasion, a Nacata, or general of the king of Queda, as I

ADVENTURKS IN THE NICOBAR ISLANDS.

r>7

t, with hia
r his pftce,

[)0t\.

fficicnt pre-
ach, for l^is
I the shore,
, and he was
ito the boat,
ed the sailors
i-ds the water,
,eir assistance,
.d on that side
rator watching
et had he gone
,e was for this
^is gun at tlio
xnade into tV
face as it wa>
xe creature wi^

.o-hthe mii^

,■^0

cnment a

roval

Led the Brethren
[know-A that tlie

gover

ict as the

I source of uinc^

anes, ^vhen tk!

ands, which tk!

Isiderable numbe:

3rs, the camag(-

on the gro^^i

of Queda, as ^

stvlcd liinisolf, nrrivod at Xanoair.vory with a lariro prow, and five
of tlio f^ms on board. Mr. Pfaensel boinj^ infonnod of this, con-
sidorod it his duty as Eesident to protest against the robbery, and
Rp(»ko to him concerning it. Tlio Naoata flow into a violent rage,
and began to use threatening language, pleading the orders of his
t^BOvereign. Mr. Ilaensel replied, with all the simplicity of tmth,
that his priiico knew very well, that as he had laid nothing down
there, he had no right to take anything up, and that he would givo
%otice of it to the king of Denmark. He then loft him, but after-
|v'ards heard that the Nacata threatened to kill him, and thus
prevent him from reporting what he had done. The natives also
lissured Mr. Haensel that it was the general's intention to murder
him ; but that they would stay and defend him. They, accord-
ingly, stopped till late in the night, when the Brethren desired
jtiiein to return home, but could scarcely prevail on them to go
iway.

\fter they had gone, and just as the Brethren were preparing to

(tire to bed, they heard a noise without, and immediately after a

[oknt knocking ot the door. On opening it, Mr. Haensel was

irprised to see it surrounded by a great number of Malays ; but

lougli he was much afraid, he a«"' ~ned an authoritative air, and

ipt his station at the entrance, as if determined not to let them

The foremost, however, pushed by him, and then the Nacata

self came forward. The Malays immediately crowded into

room, and sat down on the chairs and on the floor, closely

hing him, armed with their creeses or daggers. Though Mr.

nsel preserved a firm undaunted look, yet it is impossible to

ribe his feelings on this occasion, as he expected every moment

11 a sacrifice to their fury. The Nacata then told him that ho

come to ask, " Whose property the cannon were to be, the

iident's or his ?" To this question l^Ir. Haensel replied to the

wing effect: "You have come to the wrong person to make

REMAUICABLE ADVENTUIIES.

ill

that inquiry : for I am only a servant of the king of Denmark, a^
you, accordinp; to your o\m account, are the servant of the king^ of
Queda. Neither of us, therefore, can determine who shall have
the cannon. Our respective masters, and they only, can settle
that point. You have told me that you have received orders to
hring them ; fj.nd 1 can assure you that I have orders to piotest
against it. We have both, therefore, only done our duty. All
now depends on this point, whether my kii^ or your king h;w th*
best riglit to give orders on these islands, and to claim the property
in question." On receiving this answer, the Nacata became quitr
furious, and be«:an to talk of the ease with wliich thov could kill
them all. Some of them even drew their daggers, and showed tlic
missionary how they were tipped with poison. On a sudden the}
all rose up, and to his imagination seemed to rush upon liim ; bii
instead of this, they quitted the room, one by one, and left hii;i
standing alone in utter astonishment at their conduct.

As soon as they were all gone, and he foinid iiinidelf in safet}
Haensel fell on his knees, and with tears in his eyes returntt
thanks to God Almighty, who had so graciously heard his prayerv
and saved him from tiie hands of his enemies. His brethren, wL
had fled into the wood when the Malays first burst into the hous-
row returned, and they mutually wept for joy to see each oth^^
still in life.

The Nacata said afterwards that the Danish Eesident at Nanr;)!
wery was a very great sorcerer, for he had tied their hands tb,
th^y could do nothing to him.

A FEIIALE CRUSOE. GO

Denmark, a^
[ tlie Vm^ of
3 shall have
r, can settle
ved orders to
rs to protest
ir duty. All

king hiv» th«
i the property

became quite
b(.y could hill
iid'showed tin-
a, sudden the}
ipon liim ; hii;
, and left hiii^^

•t.

^elf iii safety
, eyes returnee
ird his prayer'
is brethren, wL
into the hous'
iee each oth^

,dent at Nanr-.iv
their hands tli.

A FEx\IALE CRUSOE.

One of the earliest travellers on the overland route, in search of
tlie north-west pt^issage, was Mr. Hearue, who, during the years
from 1769 to 1771, made three several journeys towards the Copper-
mine river, in full expectation of finding a northern ocean, the
existence of which, it was inferred, would establish the fact of a sea
route noith of the great American continent. In those journeys
he encountered the most frightful perils and underwent astonishing
haidsliipsj not a whit less cruel than the worst of those endured by
modern travellers ; and ho manifested unparalleled fortitude in con-
tending agaihst them. The third journey to some extent established
tlie fact, the verification of which was the cliief object of his expedi-
tions, and moreover corrected some importiint errors in the reports
of preceding explorers. But we have nothing to say on that subject
here. Mr. Hearue's expeditions have long been a dead letter; and
we refer to them only for the purpose of introducing an episode in
his adventures which strikes us as affording, perhaps, the most
[ronuirkable instance of female resources and self-reliance ever
reeorried.

\Vh*^n Mr. Hearue, with a company of Indian guides, was travel-
[iw^ m thf- arctic circle, not fiir from the Lake Athapuscow, one of
he guides came suddenly upon the track of a strange snow-shoe.
.sio;:ish/'d at the sight, in a region supposed to be hundreds of
liles from aLv liuman habitation, the Indians followed up the
rack, and after pursuing it for some distance, arrived at a small
it or ('ai>in, formed of snow and driftwood, where they discovered
\oung woman sitting alone. She understood their language, and
il not newl much persuasion to induce her to return with them
the traveller's tent. Here, c?> being interrogated, she told her
)ry ; when it cam^ out that she v as a native of tlie tribe of Dog-

\ 1

r?
ii

I 1

ii :i

i' ''

mmmMltllllHm

i i

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

ribbed Tndiaiis, who wore, or lifid been, at fend with the Athapus-
cans, and that at an inroad of the latter, dnrin^^ the summer of
1770, she had been taken prisoner and carried off to shivery. In
the following summer, when the Athapuscan Indians were travel-
ling the country, she watched her opportunity, and, on arriving
near the place where she was found, managed one night to give
them the slip, intending to find her way back to her own people.
In this, however, she was disappointed. She had been carried
away in a canoe, and the twistings and windings of the river were
so many and intricate, and so often intersected each other, and
there were so many lakes and marshes, that she found it impossible
to pursue her route. In this dilemma, instead of resigning herself
to despair, she set about building a dwelling for a shelter during
the winter, and having completed it, she calmly tcok up her abodi'
and commenced her solitary housekeeping.

She had kept an account of aU the moons that had passed ; and
from this it appeared that for seven months she had not seen a
human face, and had subsisted in this desolate region entirely by
her own unaided exertions. How had she contrived to sustain life ?
When asked that question, she said that when she ran away from
her captors she took with her a few deer sinews. With these slie
made snares, and caught partridges, rabbits, and squii'rels ; she
had also killed a few beavers and porcupines, and was not only not
in want of food at the period when she was discovered, but had a
tolerably good stock of provisions laid up for future use. When
tlie snares made of the deer sinews were all worn out, she ^mm
ready with another stock manufactured with sinews drawn from
the Jegs of the rabbits and squirrels which had fallen victims to her
cunning. But tliis *' exemplary female " had not only well stocked
her larder by the exercise of industry and forethought, but had ah
taken equal care of her wardrobe. From the skins of the various
animals she had caught she had made up an excellent winter suit.

A FEMALE CRUSOE.

e Athapn?-
siimmer of
lavery. I^^
were travel-
on arriving
ght to give
oNvu people.
)een carried
.6 river were
li otlier, and
it impossible
fining herself
belter during
up bcr abodo

i passed; and
id not seen a
on entirely by
to sustain life'
ran away ii'oui
VVitb these sk
squirrels; she
as not only not
Ted, but bad a
i-e use. When
•n out, sbe Ava>
ws drawn fron^
n victims to her

nly well stodeo
bt, but bad alsi
Ls of tbe varioiv"
lent wmter suit

wbicb was not only warm and comfortable, but, according to Mr.
Ilearne, was put together with great taste and exliibited no small
variety of ornament. " The materials, though rude, were curiously
wrou'^ht, and so judiciously arranged as to make the whole garb have
a pleasing though somewhat romantic appearance." Her working
implements consisted of the broken shank of an iron arrow-head,
and a few inches of iron hoop roughly sharpened into a knife ; and
^yith these she had^ constructed not only her dress, but a pair of
substantial snow shoes, and several other useful articles.

The keeping up her fire had given her most trouble. With two
sulphureous stones she could, by dint of violent friction and con-
tinuous pounding, raise a few sparks so as to kindle a handful of
loose fibres of wood carefully picked small ; but the labour was
wearisome and long ; and to avoid the necessity of it, she had not
suffered her fire to be extinguished for many months. She was
never idle. When fatigued with the toils of the chase, or when
she was not under the necessity of limiting, she occupied hei-self in
peeling ofT the thin inner bark of the willow trees with which tho
•spot abounded, and twisting it into a species of twine. Of this sort
(of line she had already accumulated several hundreds of fathoms
; in length ; and it was her intention to make of them a capacious
inet for fishing, as soon as the frost should break up and the streams
[become practicable.

Of this remarkable female, Mr. Heame, in his journal, says:

She was one of the finest women I have seen in any part of

I^ortli America." It would seem that his Indian guides were of

le same opinion ; and that, while they admired her for the comeh-

less of her person, they were by no means insensible of the value

her multifarious accomplishments. There was not a man among

lem who did not desire to have her for his wife ; so, according to

le custom of their tribe, they put her up to competition,

id wrestled in the ring for her — the strongest of the party,

EEMARIvAIU.E ADVENTURES.

after ho had overthrown all the rest, having her duly assigncxl to
him.

Wc might add a whole volume of reflections upon the cheerful,
active, womanful spirit of this female Crusoe, uncivih'zed as sh*.'
was, as contrasted witli the desponding helplessness which we too
often witness among women, and men too, who, with every motive*
to industry and activity, and every encouragement to exert both,
lose all self-reliance imder the Ihst shock of adversity, and pass
their days in useless indolence and repining. We forbear, how-
over: such a history is better without a set moral, and carries its
own comment.

^.N ADVENTUiiE IN THE DESERT.

I WAS engaged, some thirty or more years ago, in a military expe-
dition into /irabia Felix, tho recollections of which, coming upon
me througL this long vista of years, are so vivid, that I cannut
help hoping they may possess some attraction for others, especially
as encounters have been rare between European troops and tin
children of the desert.

We became, if I recollect right, first engaged in a contest witli
an Arab tribe — the Wahabees — through our ally, the Imaum ol
^luscat. This tribe had made frequent incursions into the terri-
tory of that potentate, carrying off the flocks, and committing greai
depredations. They had also made war with a Bedouin tribe in
close alliance with the just-named chief; and for these and other
offences, which had been persisted in for many years with impunity,
the Imaum determined to attack them in their stronghold, Ben-
Boo-Ali, about sixty miles in tho interior, on the borders of tlu
Great Desert.

Of this expedition, as it comes not within my personal recollcr

AN ADVENTURE IN THE DESERT.

7:^

assigned t<>

lie clicerful,
t/ahI as 8h«!
a\icU we too
jvcvv motiv<'
) exert botb,
ity, and pass
forbear, lio\v
ftd carries \\^

, military expf-
. coming npou
, that I cannot
hers, especially
roops and tlu

a contest witV
the Imaum ol
into the terri-
ommitting great
3edouin tribe in
these and other
>vithimpnnity-
strongUold, Ben-
borders of tW

•8

irsonal rcco

Hot

tion, 1 Kliall only say that, though rominanded by an able I'ritisli

ofticcr, to whom no bhimo lias been attached, it signally failed.

About five hundred Sepoys were surprised by alxnit two thousand

Wahabees and massacred, and tlio whole enterprise was thus

defeated. It was to retrieve this reverse of the I>ritish arms that

the Bombay government resolved to send a rather formidable

expedition against the offending tribe. It was, if I can ndy upon

^my memory, composed of two European regiments, the GOtJi and

|the 47th, and of two native r<^giments, a force altogether of about

lAhree thousand men, with several jjieees of heavy and light artillery.

|The command was given to Colonel Warren, of tlie (J.Oth regiment.

I A delightful sail along summer seas, in summer weatlier, brought

us, in little more than a week, to the sjKjt of our disend)arkation on

the Arabian coast of the l*ersian Gulf. A little town, or rather a

«|arge straggling assemblage of huts, called Zoar, was the first habil-

le spot we passed through. Our first encampment was in its

mediate vicinity.

Being very young at the time, I liad received, somehow or other,

impression that Arabia Felix was, as the term seemed to imply,

arkable for the beauty of its landscapes. Barren mountains

d arid plains, the blazing sun and interminable desert, the Arab

his troops of camels, are, to be sure, images of alhux^ment to

fancy, that have been made familiar to us all. But I had

cted that these grand naked outlines of nature and of life,

turesque as they are, would have been filled uj) by details of a

T charm ; and my disappointment was complete. As there are

periodical rains here to refresh the earth, as in India, verdun.'

e is naturally none, except that of the date groves, which

g up green out of the desert, and defy the heat of the sun to

or to wither them. Plains of sand, varied only by hillocks of

, bounded by scorched mountains of baked earth, rifted here

there bv the heat into wide chasms, down which one mi«;ht

D -J

'ill ii

' '

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

•i'i !i'

imagine, at one time or other, torrents had forced their way,
fatigued the sight by their sterile monotony. The Arab and the
vulture could alone, I thought, live in the midst of this desolation ;
and the latter would doubtless soon wing its flight from sucli
sterility, but for the human carnage with which the sands of
Arabia are so often moistened.

The Arab village is always built, or rather pitched, in the midst
of a date grove. There was one, a little to the rear of our encamp-
ment, in which Zoar lay refreshingly sheltered. This was a;i
attractive object, that gave relief to the eye, and afforded an
extremely grateful refuge from the united power of the sun and tlir
burning sand. Zoar, with its little circuit of vegetation, and it^
garden-plots, which were kept constantly irrigated by rude artificial
conduits of water running in all directions from the wells, was.
after our first march, as a spring of life in the waste. Two or three
mud towers, and a larger construction of the same material, callei!
the palace of the Sheikh, ga\ e to the place, at a little distance, ai
air of some pretension. The palace had been turned into a bazaar
where Scindian and Surat merchants sold shawls, attar of rose?
and various valuable kinds of cloths and silks, to be conveve
thence into the interior. This close juxtaposition of barbari
splendour and barbaric rudeness — ^this display of some of the cos;
liest luxuries of civilization glittering in the midst of the mo:
primitive simplicities of life — this evidence of wealth and commerc
among a people whose wants are the fewest, and whose existenc
is the wildest — is a peculiarity of many eastern nations, but, mo?
than all others, of the Arabs. The contrast it presented to tt
rest of the scene before us, piqued and excited the imaginatio
very delightfully. Among the numerous huts huddled promiaf
ously together, the men were wandering listlessly about, with «
air of indolent fierceness, or lying stretched out at length in tt
shade ; whilst the women were mostly employed in spinning ti

AN ADVENTURE IN THE DESERT.

their way,
•ab and the

desolation;

from s^cli
lie Bands ol

in tbe «ii<i*'
■ onr cncamv-
This ^vas au
L afforded an
le Bnn and tlv
station, and it^
y rude artificial
the wells, wa?.
Two or thre^
"material, caUec ,
ittle distance, ai

.d into a bazaai
3, attar of rost^
to be conveye
tion of barhaii
3ome of the COS'

ndst of the mo.
thandcommeio

whose existeiK

^tions, bnt, moj
presented to tb
the imagiuatK
anddled pvo^^f
jgW about, witii »
tatlengtb^^^^!
.d iu spitin^^g ^

coarse cloth of which their garments are made. Our morning
walks took us frequently among the female part of the little com-
munity, who were at that early hour occupied in one of their most
picturesque duties, drawing water from the wells — a task always,
from time immemorial, imi^sed on young maidens in the East.
But here the damsels wore masks, which were probably no dis-
.; advantage to them, as it kept the effect of their graceful figures,
I and of the stately gait they had acquired from carrying their
I pitchers on their heads, perfect, without counteraction from faces
iietter left to an embellishing fancy.

*; Our commander-in-chief. Colonel Warren, who had brought thus
%far his hatterie de cuisine with him, gave us a grand regale on our
tarrival. He invited the officers of the whole force to an abundant
.arepast he had provided for the occasion. He very considerately
Ip^flected, that but for this we should have had to fast much longer
an would have been agreeable. We dined picnic fashion,
loths were spread on the grass under the cool shade of the date
ove. Our luxuries astonished the natives, as much as we should
astonished could we witness one of the almost incredible ban-
quets which we read of spread by certain Eoman emperors. Such
ting they had doubtless never ^ntnessed before. But not
erely the inliabitants, by their grave and watchful curiosity, but
country itself, in its waste and wild stillness, and the little
mlet of huts, disturbed by the unwonted revel, told us verj^
nly that mirth and laughter and jollity are altogether out of
sir place among the Arabs in Arabia.

Whilst we were feasting, our quarter-master and his myrmidons,

the camp-followers, who were as numerous almost as our force,

forming our encampment, or rather, I should say — for little

r was observed — pitching our tents. Then intruded on the

ce and solitude of nature the many-tongued clamour of Babel.

Hindostanee, Parsee, Arabic, and European lan^ages were

RF.MAUKABLE ADVEKlX'nliS.

„ The confused and vnricl
,U mixed and confounded togeth^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^^.^^ j „

„,^eets ot the scene, >n ^'"f "^j v^,t degree novel and exc.tu-;:
the princil-al ohjeets, were m *« ^.g ^ ^.j f^„^ „„, p,,.

fo tU >v'uo co«.d^;«l;^^^ he .ho e,^^^ ^^ ^^^,,^^„,, ,,,, ,

„ic repast-the g""''"'^""; " • t,„es under our eyes. .

the strange livmg and movmgPK.t.^^ ^^_^^ ^, « t

In this e'«=''"P'"'"^"^ rrtribe of Bedouin Arabs. We felt
tended, waiting to be jmned by ^ *« °^„ ;„ .rf^n at Bombay:

Uere as perfect a ^'='=""*y;.,;;:,y Carried so far, that, in order t„
,„d this feeling v^'as ""^0^"?^^'^ ; ht alarms, ^vhich had once o,
prevent the recnrrenco of "> « "J ^,,, ordered not o load,
Lice disturbed our c»!"P' *\^^ ^'^eh till the Imaum of Ito.

Our commandant remamed ^^"Tes^mo^.

arrived, .ho accompan.ed us on our^^p ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ,

That Arab pnnce ^^^ ^'^''^ ,„,ro„nded us. His tents w

the grotesque human scenery that sn ^ ^ no symbol .

*:cLd agoocl^loaMo our rea iW^^^ ^„, embroidery,..

Ugniflcence other *-";J^'/^'^° their summits. But the pnn.

the yellow banners Aat"""**'^ °^'' ^ constellation of splendoiu

himself ..as, on all f^^^X^ occasions, on a visit of ee.

Wl worth seeing. On one <^ J^^ y^ ,t^ff, he received to

^onymade to him ^Y °« - W an ^^ ^^^^^^^,,^,^ ten,

. -x oUfiticr on a mat at tiie uun^*" - gj;,

visitors sitting on i* *" . , jy q\^x man, oi » *"

He was represented to "- J/^^^J^iiy are, profusely decc
complexion, much darke than Arab J^ ^^^^^^ ^ ^

rated all over with 3««clle.7- ^^ j^^ atones, audk

head-piece ; his sUppevs -^V'^^Ia with other sparkUng ge.
Wt and the lult of his sworc»t ^^^^ ^^^^ ^

principally diamonds. He mu^ bespangled all over w> h .1
Leous idol in a pag*"^ ["^J' -phe „ll salads, usual pP
:Xi:--'Strh..donmats,theu^

AN ADVENTURE IN THE DESERT.

,<>

and varied
g camel v-v.
°and excitu^::
from our pie-
itional zest i

!S.

as at first in-
rabs. ^Vefe\l
311 at Bombay,
at, in order t.>
;h bad once oi
;d not to load
laum of Huscai

Lotbci feature oi
His tents ^YC^
.d no symbol n
embroidery, m^
. ButthepriiK
on of splendour
a a visit of cere
f he received lil
cierate-sized teni
man, of a must
., profusely decc
,lazed a dianiow
)us stones, ami li:
er sparkling g^^

very ra^^^.f\
all over with U

tlaams, usual pip«

;, tlie usual silona

and the usiiol few words of hyperbolical couiplimont on pn.vsontation
and on leave-taking, constituted the wholo solemnity. It was tho
subject of talk among the natives and our camp followers during
the remainder of our stay at Zoar, and wonderful were tho stories
we hoard of Arab wealth, Arab prowess, etc.

Thus passed our time away in o pleasant sort of dreamy weari-

: somcncss, star-gazing at night on picket, and during tho day tiuio

? wandering among l)eings who had belonged hitherto, in our minds,

only to fable, and listening to fables from their mouths (througli

interpreters) very like their own history. We were aroused out of

this delicious sort of reverie by an event by no means so agreeable,

ut which acted as an efiective specific against dreaming for tlio

^Vest of the campaign.

The pickets, as I have said, were not allowed to load their pieces.
mi)roving on this order, the captain of one of them had not suf-
fered even his sentries to load. The consequence was fatal. Tho
ahabees had sent spies into our camp, and liad become fully
formed of the defenceless state of the outposts. Seven of these
ies had been captured and hanged a few days before, by order of
e Imaum. Yet no alarm seems to have been occasioned. Taking
vantage, then, of our security, and profiting by as dim a night as
cVrabian sky ever affords, a large party of Wahabees, mounted
camels and horses, were borne with silent celerity over tho
toste; and before the moon, which rose late, could throw any
trusive light on their movements, they were in the immediate
ighbourhood of the aforea^^id picket. As this outpost was corn-
ed of Sepoys, it is very possible some spy might have learned
,t on this spot the very sentinels were virtually disarmed,
fving left their horses and camels a good way behind, the
abees crept along the groimd from sand hillock to sand
[t)ck, burrowing absolutely among the sand, in which their
ies were nearly concealed. Tho first sentry whose eyes were

Ji''l

< i (4 i

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

directed towards them saw only what he thought a moving sand-
Iicap. Before ho had time for closer examination, the Arab had
hold of his musket, had wrested it out of his hand, and cut him
down. Resistance was, of course, vain. Tlie picket was driven in,
and, with a wild " hurrah !" several hundred Wahabees followed
close at their heels. They had evidently no plan of attack. It
was merely one of their nightly forays of destruction and depre-
<lation they were engaged in. They fell upon the left of our camp
like a sudden hurricane. All the camels or horses they cncoun-
torcd they slaughtered or houghed, and every straggling man or
little throng of men, sttirting in affright from sleep, they met with
incurred instant death. Some of the assailants darted their spears
through the tents, whilst others stood at the apertures to sabro
those who attempted to escape. Several partial conflicts, however,
took place, and two Wahabees were killed. Of our men, in less
than a quarter of an hour, there were forty killed and wounded.
Among the number oi the former was a son of the celebrated
James Boswell, who had a commission in a native regiment, and
was much liked by all who knew him. By the time our force had
turned out, the enemy had disappeared : we remained under arms
for an hour or two, and from this time to the close of the expe-
dition were fully on the alert.

CHAPTER II.

The long-expected Bedouins at length arrived. One morning, a
cloud of dust along the distant horizon announced their approach,
and presently they became more distinctly \nsible. They came
galloping forward at full speed. A promiscuous crowd of camek,
horses, and asses, whose backs were unencumbered with any kind
of housing, bore their riders along with surprising swiftness. They
were sometimes seen through, and sometimes lost in, the clouds of

AN ADVENTURE IN THE DESEUT.

)ving sand-
Arab haxX
ind cut bim
13 driven in,
jcs followed

attaclc. It
L and depre-
of onr camp
they cncoun-
rling man or
hey met with
i their spears
ures to sabre
licts, however,
p men, in less

and wounded,
the celebrated

regiment, and
our force had
,ed under arms
ie of the expc-

One morning, a
their approach,
[e. They came
rowd of camels
d with any \-^^^
swiftness. They
in, the clouds of

dust which tlicy raised. Tlioy brandished their swords, souiuiod
them on their shields, and shouted exulting! y as tliey advanced ;
and their vanity must have been highly gratified on seeing our
whole cump turn out from curiosity to witness tlieir approach.

To these picturesque beings ground on our riglit was assigned.

Here they settled down in a wonderfully tasteful sort of confusion.

'Viewed from a little distance, the strange wild figures of the men,

ImoAing about in warrior p-uisc, or basking at length in the sun;

ithe sleek and beautiful figures of the horses, standing in every

ivariety of posture ; the camels, rearing or reposing their awkward

iiiibrms, or remaining fixed in the patient motionlessness of still lifa

?from sunrise till sunset ; the incessant and varying gleam of arms,

and tlio shifting shadows of objects before only known to us as a

pageant of poetry — composed a picture so completely Arabian,

hat I felt the keenest regret at having no knowledge of that

serene and silent art " that would have enabled me to preserve in

y portfolio something like a correct impress of its charm.

Sometimes I would see our red-coats and the Bedouins at a

imic fight together. But between them there was about the

mo diflerence in these sham combats as there was between the

rmidable double-edged Arab sword and the useless spits with

hirh our officers were at that time equipped, or rather eucum-

red; and the contrast was still greater in other respects. The

11 form, muscular, well-built limbs of the desert wuiTior, fidly

veloped by constant exercise, his sallow complexion, long black

ir, dark eye of fii-e, set off with the best effect by his tunic,

ban, and sleeveless cloak ; the spear which he carried in his

d, the shield upon his arm, with his sword, and his kreese in

belt — completed a figure which, when mounted on a fine horse,

really inspiring to look at. But the domestic habitudes of

e descendants of Ishmael most pleased me. Their animals they

rded quite as part of the family, partaking with them, often

i:EMAUKAni,K ADVKNTUKKS.

ifll

iim

Vl II

iVoin the Hiiuw: baskiit, of dates, rice, and dri<Ml fish, to which i\\v
<(Uadni[»ed.s BCM.'incd to be, in hick of nioro snituhl(» food, very \v<H
rcconcih'd. In the evening, moreover, the primitivo character of
these people in their worislii]) came most strikingly out. Separatin^i*
into bunds, the Uedouins Avent out, as tlie sun sank beliin<l tlic
mountains, to perform tlieir orisons. After casting handfuls <»!'
sand upon their hoa<l8, Ihey bent, covering their faces with tlieii"
hands, to tli<' earth, and muttered tlieir invocations. They would
then all stand up for a while, and go through various prostrations
and g(Miuflexions ; whilst the softened, slant streams of the settin;;
sun gleaming upon them, would give tlicm a fantastic appearance,
But before these living picturi>s, which seemed to have as mucli
of imagination as of reality hi them, had lost their charm of novelty,
we were on the move.

The breaking up of our camp wj\s a stirring spectacle. Tents
taking down, camels loading, regiments forming into line, officers
mounting, the motley variety of Indian, Arab, and European cos-
tumes, formed some of the details of its organized disorder. Oiii-
sultry marches that followed, with a tropical blazing sun on our
heads, and the burning sands under our feet, were the only real
suffering we had to endure, but it was by no means a slight one ,
The fatigue itself of marching fifteen or twenty miles a day, in sucli
a country and climate, was much severer than that of a marcli
double that distance in Europe. The first day sufficed to peel tlu
skin off most of our faces, which wo were obliged to invest in our
silk handkerchiefs, to keep them from further scarification, till
they got inured to scorchings. In crossing the ghauts (mountains],
three of our men, who were in charge of some elephants that haJ
been procured to drag a few heavy pieces of artillery through a
very difticult pass, died of the heat, which was more than oucc
intensely aggravated by a delusive refreshment which sometimes
cheated our senses. Once I recollect, during a day of more than

AN AlA'KNTLllE IN TIIK DKSEIlT.

L) wliicU i\\v.
»d, very vvfH
cU J! meter of

Sepuvalin-:
: behind Hi'*

liiuidl'ul!* "i"
cs with tlieir

They would
3 prostrutious
of the setting
c appearand,
liavo as iniuli
.rm of novelty,

jctaclc. Tents
bo line, officers
European cos-
disorder. Our
ng sun on our
3 the only real
[18 a slight on( .
s a day, in sucli
lat of a mardi
ccd to peel the
,0 invest in our
icarification, till
uts (mountains),
phants that liaJ
^iUery through a
more than ouco
;vhich sometimes
ay of more than

wsiiiil fatl^'iic, a snd<lon exclamation of joy l)urHt from nearly a

wh()l(

rho villf

:ll

<ud-

iieuinp wn
deiily hf'f'ore us Its ditto grov(\s, towers, huts, transparent springs,
oven camels laden with water, connng out to meet us, were all
viviiily portrayed — alas! it was only by our imagination — on the
illuminated sands. It was some time before we found out that this
«^vas a mirage. Some, whoso fancies were oriental, then conjured
fliip moscpies and tanks ; others, streams, villas, and flocks ; and
iBome were animated by the inspiring vision of a stag-chase sweep-
ing by thi.MU. After this we had another ghaut to pass, from
Mwhich wo had an extensive view, and got sight of the dijitant desert,
which appeared like a sea in restless undulation.

I recollect not much more of the incidents of our march to

J{eii-J>oo-Ali. We had nightly apprehensions of attacks on our

Jftutposts, but were allowed to advance quite unmolested ; chiefly

wing, I believe, to the scouting watch our J5edoiiin allies kept up

V us far round about in all directions. At these outposts the

|fh(!er on <luty might enjoy the contemplation of sudi a night

ene as is never seen in a European clime. The intense and per-

ctly cloudless blue of the firmament, and the brightness of the

aveidy host, much more numerously visible tlian in western

,titudes, canopying uniform barrenness and lifelessness — except

e little green quiet date grove, with its pleasant noise of water

liming perpetually from the wells, and the sleeping camp, speck-

with its white tents the surrounding waste — made the sky so

lich the absorbing object of attraction, that one miglit understand

once why the Arabs and Chaldeans were the first discoverers of

science of astronomy. But, of all the stars that studded the

It of heaven, the officer and sentinels on these occasions were

it on the look-out for the one which Milton calls

" Fairest of staM, lust in the traiu of Night :"

.T^frn

<' i.i

RE^rAKKABLE ADVENTl-JRES.

1):^

ibr its appearance annoiineed tliat the picket would te sp(,^edily
released fi'ora its watch.

At lust, we camo in sigh', of J3en-Boo-Ali. At Fome distance it
Ic-oked very grand indeed, especially afte^L* tho barren, bare, un-
siditlv, unadorned traclv wo had waded tlirou^xh. It was situated
in the close neigiilx>iirhood of three of the larjiest date groves wt*
liad seen, and was sheltered by a fourth, -^vhich lay in tho mitl.st of
them. It might bo considered as the great- metropolis of tlie wliole
Wahabee tribe in this part of Arabia. Several towers, three or
four of them of ample circurafercince and of gi*eat height, rose u])
from among the trees. From the tops of two of them wo dis-
cern(Hl the flickering of arms, and men moving about, and were
immediately afterwards saluted by a discbarge from one of our owii

guns, taken from Captain J . At this time the bones of poor

'{' 's men, whi(»li lay scattered about, bleaching in the sun, tho

skulls grinning horribly through their white teeth i]X)u us, were at
our feet ; and our martial ardour was not a little m(;ved thereby t't
retrieve tho fonner disaster.

This, however, would not have been a very easy task, had th-?
Wahabees, trusting less to their personal bravery and prowess, dis-
played but ever so littlo skill in mihtary tactics ; and for tli ■
following reason. In order to attack the enemy, or to bring o\v:
guns to bear on their to^vn willi any eflect, it was neces.<ary U>
traverse th(j largest and most thickly planted of the groves I havo
mentioned, hi doing this, it was impossible to pvcserve even au
}i|)p(ntrance of rank or order. The trees stood so close togi'tlx r.
and the .vands were so Iieavy, that we were obliged to scramlil''
througb tl>era, man by man, the best way wo could. But to thcN
natund imp<^dim(mt,s tlio Wahabees had mor<; than suflicient tiii;-^
to add artificial ones. They might have cut down tho trees t»r
tliruwn up barricades to block our way ; or, sliouhl sucli precauti('ii
be considered too scientific to have been expected from them, thoy

AX ADVENTURK IN THE DESERT.

te spoedily

clistance it
!, bare, m>
,vus situated
to groves ny;'
the mit-lst of
of the ^vllol('
ors, three or
light, rose u])
hem wo (lis-
ut, and were
me of our oww
)Oiies of poor
I the SUB, tlu>
on us, were at
red thereby to

task, had tb-)
.1 prowess, dis-
aud for tlv.-
to brhig our
„s ncees:^iiry U'
proves I have
gcn've even iiu
close tog«'tb*r,
[kI to scram1)l>'
But to th<'^<
sumcieut tiiH''
n the trees ur
lUeli prceiiutK'ii
1-om tiieui, tlu':

iniicht ut least have planted ainbuslies in the grove, and have kept
I up a most deadly fire on m in our passa^ro through it. Tljey suf-
Ifered us, however, to advance without the slightest opposition ; and
even when our men issued out, one by one, from the entanglement
of the wood into the adjoining plain, which was fived right oppo-
site by another grove, they continuc'l quite passive.
.^ Our whole iVirce was drawn up in two lin^-^ — the Europeans in
fr«>!it and tlio Sepoy-} in the rear— -on this plai);, before we saw
aught of the enemy. And then, it was «vdy by getting a view of
them throngh teh'soopes, from one of th(.'ir towers which we had
left Ix'liiud u.<, that wi; found out where th>-^y were. There they
were — a thrilling spectacle — in the grove just fronting us, their
dark ligures mjide apparent by the glitter of th^*ir arms — a whole
trilx', for the last time under the congenial gloom of their own
,. shades, coiled up tor one Ihial spring of desperation, and doomed to
M^ within a lew minutes.

«' A little tiring from a riile comj)any soon brought them out upon
^s. It was a sight to move pity, to behold the wild sortie of tlie
)or creatures from their shelter. Th<"r rushed forward, a confused
"i^wd, in a frantic manner. At fir<t ttj^'V sliouted, and performed
^tp'iv; like a dance; then they thre'^v k! <nf's at us, and appeared
iuite bewildered Avhat to do, when a discharge from a cou[d(^ c^f
nr lield-[)i(!ces, that mad<.! fearful gaps in tij<i frightened throng,
rought them to the possession of th<'ir senses. They fired off
iieir iirelocks, daited their spears before them, aud in a second
;n^ wicidinix, with terriido eil'ect, their doul)le-edired swords on
ir ranks. Their onset was so sudden, and tlieir mode of attack
le for whi«di European S(ddiers are so litth^ prepared, that they
rew tlie left of our front line, on which thoy had i^recipitjited
Slem selves, at once uito disarray. IFand-to-hand liglits, in whi(di
Me Wahabees hud L^'catlv tlie superioritv in manv instances, took
||nce, and they seemed so far to bo gaining great advantage ; v.hen

llEMARKADLE ADVENTUKKS.

our f'ommamlor formed the Eui"oi)oau part of tlio force into three
sides of a square, and ordered an iiidoiiendent firing to be kept up,
M'hic'Ii soon checked the partial disorder that had taken place. Tlu^
AVahabeos, however, were not yet daunted ; and it was not until
they had got uito our rear, and had perceived a body of fifteen
liundrcd fresli trooj^s luv^pared to support, in caso of need, tho.S(>
witli \vlioni they had already been engaged, that tliey were seized
with a panic, flung down their arms, and fled. In little less than
lialf an hour the whole affair was over. Of our men, about sixtv
were killed and wounded. Of the Waliabees, we counted next dav
nearly five hundred, dead or dying on the field of action.

AVithout further opposition A\orth mentioning, we took possession
of Ben- Boo- Ah. Wo slept that night in our cloaks, under the
walls. The next morning we visited the place in detail. It was
only a larger Zoar ; but its desolation was most melancholy. Jt>
empty huts ; the scattered housewife's implements ; the signs of
recent habitations, where there were no iidiabitants ; the idle wells:
the water-courses unsupplied with water; the trampled gardens,
but yest<'rday neat and flourishing ; the desi)air preceding imme-
diate destruction, that had thrown everything hither and thither;
the groves themselves, so bereft and solitary ; all seemed to mourii
tlie sudden catastroplu? ; wliilst our prisoners, huddled tog<3ther, ii
wretched band in deplorable plight, looked on with lack-lustre eye
at the spoliation of all their household goods and treasures, by thei!
careless, joyous, laughing, and joking victors. Everything ])ort-
able, of suflicient value, such as spears, kreeses, swords, and sliickl?
some of which were inlaid with silver, rewarded the searchers alter
such spoils ; and all the large stores of dates, rice, and dried fisli,
of late the common property of the whole Wahabee settlement
with their hoard of coin and precious stones, by no means imon-
siderable, were disposed of to the Imaum, and so converted foni^
into prize-money. The stronghold itself, before we left, was set tin

LOST ON THE FELLS.

Q into tliree
bo kept up,
place. The
ras not until
dy of fifteen
i need, t"lios(>
; were seized
ttlo less tliau
1, about sixty
ated nei.t day

ion.

ook possession
ks, under tlif
detail. It was
3laneholy. It^
; the signs of
the idle wells;
iiplod gardens,
•eceding imme-
er and tliitliev;
reined to mourn
lied tog(itlier, n
lack-lustre eye-
easures, by thoii
everything l^ort-
)rds, and sIucIiIn
le searchers aftir
J, and dried ii^li.
abee settlemci^t
no means incon-
•onverted for u^
left, was set tin

< to and razed to tlie ground by order of tliat princ<\ To gratify

' hiui, we remained before Ben-Boo- x\li till the live liuudred <'()rp8e8

of the slain, bloated to an enormous and frightful size 1 »y the heat

of the sun, sent forth an odour that would have bred a fever in our

camp, had we remained much longer. On picket at night, one

■; iri^'ht see flights of vultures descending on the bodies, flapping

Htheir wings over them, whilst their busy beaks were at work.
iSuch are the horrors of war, even on a small scale.

Sunning themselves on the ramparts of Bombay, about a year
[afterwards, I saw some of our Wahabee prisoners, and, among
jotliers, one of their chiefs, with Avhom I had made some acrpiaint-

^ance, and couhl communicate by signs. As the bird in its cage
jsings happily of fields and groves, so the Arab, in his captivity,
■golaces himself with the recollection of his arid sand plains, liis
.waste ocean desert, and the green spot on its border, his niglit skies

'Aof transcendent splendour, liis nightly forays and onslaughts, and
all the rude simplieities of his wild life. So, at least, I interpreted
the kindlinar eve and animated sresticnlation of the old Arab chief
have alhided to, when I spoke to him of Ben-Boo-Ali. Tliis is
ly last reminiscence of my military adventure in Arabia.

LOST ON THE FELLS.

?HE traveller on the Newcastle-on-Tyne and Cai'lisle Puiilway,
saving th(.' line at Ilaydou-bridge, will, if he turn towards the
)utli, find liimself very shortly in the midst of sceneiy for wliich
railway journey will have little prepared him. Instead of the
tile and well-wooded vale of the Tyne through wliich he has just
«'(!, a region bare and bleak appears before him. On every side
real ridges of hills, or, as they are called in that district, " fells,"
iu gloomy grandeur, their tops often, even in the height

KEMARILVBLE ADVENTURES.

of sumincr, covered with snow. As he passes aloiip^ the seein-
in^^^ly iutermiiiablo road, a few stray houses, or a smoky smelt-iiiill.
are the only signs of life that appear ; and so bare and sterile does
evciything seem, that he finds it diflicult to imagine that wealth oi
any kind can bo gathered from such a region. Ihit riches, vast
and incalculable, are there hidden — beneath the surface of tlic
eartli, it is true, but only waiting the jDcrsevering energy of man in
be brought forth and turned to good account. He is in the great
Allendale mining district, from whence is extracted all the cele-
brated lead, which, stamped with the distinguishing letter-
*' W. B.," finds such a ready sale in every market.

After travelling for many miles along an ever-rising road, Ik
will reacli the little hamlet of AUenheads, the centre of the miniui;
district, and the highest village in England. The inhabitants of
tlu's strange corner of the world are distinguished by a primitiw
.simj)licity of manners, which very few would imagine could be
found in busy England no'"-a-days. It is not my purpose, how-
over, to dwell upon tlieii* characteristics. The following narratiw
relates one of the incidents which are unhap[>ily ccmimon in
Allendale. The snow gathers every winter to an enormous dej>tl;
on the sides of the "fells," so that the roads are nearly, if iKt
entirely, impassable ; and from tlie deej) " doughs " which abound,
it is almost ctTtain death for any one to wander in a snow-storm
oft' the proper track. Many unwaiy travellers have thus perished:
and thougli the following adventu^'o hap})ily did not terminat.
f.itally, its history may nevertheless be of interest to some wlm
are entu-e strangers to such scenes, and who, perhaps, could net
believe them possible in England.

About ton o'clock one wintry evening, in the middle of Ihe gro.it
snow-storm of December, 18(i0, one of the engineers h-l Allen-
heads mines-office, and proccn-dod to his lodgings, a short (^istanc
from it. On arriving at them, liowover, he for. . his landlady

LOST ON THE FELLS.

npr the secMn-
vy smelt-mill,
id sterile tloi >
Lluvt wealth el
it riches, vast
urtace of the

ivrv of man to

3 in the great

all the cel-

ishing letter^

•ising road, lu'
. of the miniiii:

inhabitants c»!'
by a primitive
igine could bt.*
f purpose, hoNY-
Aving narrativt
ly cimimon in
enormous deptli
) nearly, if net

which abound
a snow-storm

thus perished;

not terminiit.
;t to some wln'

laps, could iioi

dU^ ()f the gi'oat
leers le ,1 Mlen-
a slu>rt (^istaniv
iiis landlii>i}

ijluno-od in the deepest distress. It appeared that her husband,
I >vh() had only recently come into the district as a mine inspector,
'% and who was quito unacqnainteil with tlio locality, had gone over
? tlie fells into A\'est Allendale about mid-day; and though lie shouhl
. liave been at home by six or seven at latest in the evening, he had
' .<iiot yet made his appearance. The enginc^er, who was well awaro
lof ihc dangerous nature of the road whicli the unfortunate man
Lhud to take, was at once alarmed, and in a Ixiw minutes he had
comniissi(jned one of the miners to raise a searching party, and to
pro(.'ure as many lanterns for their use as p(jssiblo. This was V(n*y
|3 soon accom^)lislied ; for in a village like Alleuhcads, none can
If know wlietlier the service, which in such cases they are doing foi*
others, n.ay not, ere long, bo required for themselves ; and, con-
scious of tliis, tliey are ever ready to afford such assistance.

JS'o time was to be lost, for all the experienced fellsmen cx-
jjprcissed great anxiety respecting the object of the search. lh\
Imight have faHen into one of the numerous gorges abounding by
^the side of tiie path, and in which snow to the dej)th of from twenty
ito tliirty feet was accumulated. Once in one of tliese, unless la^
hras immediately discovered, he would bo lost ; for the loudest cry
Tor help could not reach any of the few thinly scattered cottages
^hich are to be found in that barren region ; and long ere morning
iinv, the falling snow would have buried him and covered every
rac(5 of his fate. More probable still was it, that, worn out by his
litless battling with the blinding snow, which, above, beneath,
id all around, seemed determined to overcome him, ]ui had ven-
ned to rest an instant, and in that fatal moment had fallen into
lat sleej) which knows no earthly waking. Uiider any eircum-
mces, however, it wjis f«'lt that his situation was one of the
ttreniest peril ; and within an hour of the iirst alarm b(>ing given,
le l)and of searchers, to the number of t' n, set forth (m their
illniit undertaking. Shortly alter leaving the village, they re-

^ww^

nEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

I' I

ceived an accession to their strength in the persons of three young
men, who joined them at a little nest of cottages called Lo^v
Houses. Here their anxiety was somewhat relieved by the intelli-
gence that the missing man was not alone, a mason employed at
the mines having accompanied him on his journey.

Toiling on through the snow, which was everywhere very deej),
the party arrived at a place called Swinhope Head, where a house
afforded them a few minutes* shelter. Here a halt was called, and
a consultation held as to the most advisable course to pursue. It
was resolved to divide the party ; the first six of them to go over
the fells to West Allendale, and the remaining seven to stay wher(
they then were, unless they received intelligence of the missini:
men not having been found, when, refreshed by a few hours' sleeji,
they were to i^roceed on a general search.

The first party at once commenced their explorations ; and now
their real difiSculties began. As they ascended, by the aid of their
dimly burning lanterns, the snow-laden side of the fell, they had to
exercise the greatest caution, lest they themselves should be over-
come by some hidden peril. In many places the snow rose like ;i
A\'all of dazzling whiteness right across their path, to a sheer height
of more than twenty feet ; this, however, was a visible danger, and
not therefore so much to be dreaded ; but in other places, where
the surface of the snow seemed perfectly level and harmless, deep
" cleughs " were concealed, in which the whole party might have
lieen easily swallowed up. Often the drifting of the snow had beei.
so great, that they were compelled to pass through places wliert
they sank in it up to the middle, and from which they coidd only
be extricated by the most vigorous exertions, or the assistance oi ^
each other. On the top of the fell, a halt was again made under
slielter of a lofty snow wreath ; and the feeble lanterns havin^^
been once more trimmed, and a few minutes' breathing time
allowed, the descent was commenced. An exclamation from oiu

LOST ON THE FELLS.

three young

called Low

,y the intelli-

employed at

ire very deep,
rhere a hous(;
ras called, ami
to pursue. It
em to go over
L to stay >vher(
)f the missing
sv hours' sleep,

ions ; and no^v
the aid of their
■ell, they had tc
khould be over-
low rose like a

a sheer heiglit
ble danger, and
jr places, where

harmless, deep
vrty might have
e snow had been
gh places when

thev coidd only
ho assistance oi
ain made under

lanterns having

breathing time
mution from oiu

)f their number drew the attention of the otliers to the spot where

ife stood ; and there, to the heartfelt joy of all, some almost

)bliterated footprints were discovered. An old hand in such

rattors, warning the others from approaching too near, knelt

iown and carefully blew the freshly fallen snow from one of the

rints, and, as the result of his exertions, wtis able to see that ho

(ho had made it had been travelling in an opposite direction to

lat in which the searching party was going. From the number

footprints made, there could be little doubt that the track so

)rtunately discovered was that of the missing men ; and the

marchers at once turned round and began rapidly to follow it up.

heavy fall of snow commencing at the same time, warned them

li lose no time in doing so, for ere long the marks would be

itotirely Iiidden.

1^ But though they had thus hit upon the track of the lost ones,

leir anxiety for them was by no means relieved. Tliey saw from

how much they had been fatigued ; and from the way in which

[wandered about in all directions, thev knew that the unfortunate

m had become quite confused in their geographical notions, and

)uld, therefore, be unable to move steadily in the right way.

lother circumstance added to the anxiety of the searchers. They

themselves lost tlieir way, and had only a very vague idea of

sir position. Without more than a passing thought to them-

res, however, the gallant little band pushed actively on in

suit of the track ; here and there it became straight and steady

a short distance, and then resumed its old crab-like mode of

ression. In these cases they knew that the fall of snow must

lenly have ceased, and by a momentary glimpse of the stars in

frosty skies, the two lost ones had been enabled to move more

lily than usual.

le lying snow was now very deep, and what was of more con-
lence, so soft that tlioy sank in at every step. Suddenly, as

'Wfr

I' 'I

KEAIAKKAliLI-: ADVENTUKKS.

they were moving on, one of tlioir number guve a loutl cry, aiid
immediately disappeared iKmenth the surface, and was quickly
followed by another, tliougli in a diirereut direction. A sml
moment was that for the brave little band, for they knew tlicy hud
fcitumbli'd among the " peat-pots," * which abound at one part (.:
the fell-side. liy dint of vigorous exertions, the imfortmial
biurowers were rescued by their happier comrades, thouiih i:
no pleasant plight, for the "pots" were more or less filled wit;
water, whicli, Avhcn exposed to the keen night air on the dresses o.
the party, at oncci froze, and by no means added t'^ their comfort.

Innumerable Mere the falls of this description which they Lai
now to encounter, but they boldly persevered, and discoveiv
another trace of the objects of their exertions, in the shape of
*• j)eat-pot," into which it was evident tiiey had fallen. The siiu
in it was seven feet thick, and at the bottom was a water draii.
Had only one man been crossing the fell, he would have had 1 1:
jittle chance of saving himself, if he had fallen into such a chasu
The " peat-pots " had done the searching party good service, liov.
ever, in one respect, for they had sufficed to point out to them tlui
real position ; and so, after a few niiuutes' sharp walking, tin
recovered the turnpike road, wliich they had the satisfaction '
seeing had also been reached by the missing men.

This discovery greatly allayed their fears ; and though, c
arriving at a lonely cottage, they learned that notliing had U
there seen of the wandt}rers, they nevertheless had now good hoj«
of their safety. They went on to Carshield, where they thoiij:!
it pi'obable they might be found, but without obtaining any tidiij.
of them ; at last, however, after a further ^\•eary walk along the n
but snowed-up road, they reached the small village of Coalcku:
about half-j)ast four a.m., and there, to their intense joy, found tl

* The " p«'at-pf)t3 " aro luriro pits in the ftll-.sifU's, from whioli the pc;it — wl.k'
aliiiubt uuivLTiiilly used fur fuel iu the Uistrict— luw Lccii (lu^j.

LOST ON THE FELLS.

1)1

oud cry, and
^vas quickly
tion. A sail
:new tlicy luu.
:it one part*;

uufortiiiuU
,es, thoivuli i;
icss filled ^vit:

1 tlie dresses u
.lieii- comlbrt.
kliieb tliey liu>
[ind discover^
the shape of
leu. The sno

a water draii
1 have had li;
,o such a chasL:
lod service, hov-
,ut to thoui tlui
3 \valking» tin.
satisfaction '.

and thouj;h, c-
)thing had U' -
now good hoi"-
re they thougi
ning any titliii-
alk ak)ng the ;>
^^0 of Coalcleu:
so joy, found tl

h the pciil— whkl.

hjects of all their labour, safi'ly house'd; one of t hem, indeed, was
lui; in bed, and ko sound asleep that it was with great dilli<'ull y
that he could bo roused.
AVliile the worn-out explorers were imrtakiu*:: of some doubly
Vccrptublo refreshments, and, in doing so, learning to appreciate
the \ahio which all aretie voyagers place upon jjjood tea, they
leurd the stoiy of the two missing men, who, it appeared, had lost
he track when only a short distance from their destination, an<l
bee having done so, had wandered about for hours without recover-
ig it ; but at last they had reached the " peat-pots," and, alarmed
>y tiie accident with which they had then met, they shoilly after-
mrds commenced shouting for help, and, being ha})pily heard by
%omQ men dwelling at a little distance, had been rescued by them,
4uid after six hours* wandering conveyed in safety to the place
rhere they were novf found. They could not believe that they had
jturned into West Annandale, for during all their peregrinations
ley had been under the impression that they were gradually
learing their homes, instead of receding further from them. How
my times the kind and ever-watchful providence of God had
5cued them from death during that night no mortal can ever
low; but it needs not a fellsman to appreciate all the ix^rils,
rriole dangers, and " haii'-breadtli 'scapes" wiiich it was then
^eir lot to encounter.

After an hour's rest, the whole party set out on their way home-

rd, and on the top of the fell discovered the remainder of the

;inal searching party, who, alarmed for the safety of their

n Hides, had set out to seek them. A little further on they

jountiU'ed, at short intervals, two more strong bodies of men

n Allenheads, bent on the same errand ; for the whole of the

labitants of the village had now become thoroughly alarmed,

only for the safety of the two lost ones, but of the gallant

tie party who had risked their lives in seeking to recover them.

'IWf "l '^

1)2

IlE M AUK A IJ LK A D V KNTU R KS,

'I'lieir spirits riiiscsl by tlio hearty chcors >vith wliich tlicy wciv
greeted, tho weary travellers stepped briskly forward, and had tli(
[)leasure, at eight o'elook, of restoring to the auxious wives tlicii
missing husbands, after having spent nine hours of tho long winter
nigiit in recovering them.

ii'i

^IIJ!

NARROW ESCAPE FRO]M A SNAKE LITE.

"One summer evening, as I walked alone through tho woods, ,i
noise, some yards off to the left, suddenly arrested my attention. I
was walking where I had no expectation of meeting with aiiv
human being, yet I thought I heard tho voices of people con-
versing. I stopped short, and looking round, saw a party a
travellers, with a packhorse, passing along among the trees, in ai
oi)po8ite direction to myself, about fifty paces on my left. Just;;
that part a packhorse was an unusual thing, bullocks bcin:
generally used for this mode of conveying baggage. My curiosit-
being thus excited, I still continued to gaze. Suddenly I hear
tho peculiar rustling that a large snake makes in passing throuff
very dry grass. It was as distinct as if my ear were laid close i
it. I looked. It was at my very feet. A long brown snako w.
uncurling himself and stretching away his lithe and hateful s]i,'i|>
from off the very spot on which my right foot would have bee
placed at tho very step I was about to make. The bite of tl:
species is considered to produce death in two or three hours, an
to be so rapid in extending itself through the system as scarcely'
leave any hope from tho most speedy excision of the part. 3i
consciousness was instantly all about me. I saw that there h
been but a sound between me and all that comes after deatii, !
that what it might. It was coming very close to the brink oft:

NAr.r.OW ESCAl'K FROM A SNAKH lUTE.

1 tlioy wcr.^
and ^uu\ tlu
I wives tbi'iv
5 Imip; wiuUr

BITE.

1 the woods, ,i
y- attention. 1
(ting with niiy
of peoi^le coil-
jaw a party (>
the trees, in ai
lyleft. J"8ti::
bullocks bcini

ludden
pass

|cr
pri
kI

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

*<.^.

^ MP

1.0 ^i- I

I.I

2.5

■££ I

Ill's

1.8

^ IIIM IIIIM

Sciences
Coipoiation

23 WIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. USBO

(716)»73-4503

•sj

^^ /^\ WcS

■^^

•' iiii'iiiii niniia

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

void abyss, tliat I as yet had as the only representation of futurity.
It compelled mo to look fairly into it. I could not liolp thinkin;^-
^vhether I might not have a soul, and whether that soul might not
have a God to answer to for the deeds done in the hodv."

This narrative appeared some years ago in a work entitled, " A
Testimony to the Truth," whicli contains the account of several
remarkable deliverances which the writer of it experienced in
Australia, at a time when he was emerging from the dark and
dreary blank of atheism into a life of faith in Christ. The incident
referred to was one of the escapes whicli happened to its author
just as speculiitive infidelity was on the point of giving way in his
mind. It illustrates the coincidence which so often is found to
occur between escape from peril and a peculiar state of mind
existing at the moment of deliverance in the person rescued.

"Something," observes the author in question, "was required to
stir me up into practical activity. And I think nothing more
remarkable in itself and its adaj)tation can be instanced in tlio
history of human life than what took place. A series of provi-
dences followed, the overwhelming tendency of which will be
allowed to have been just what was needed. And what they
tended to, they accomplished. For a series of years I met with
Fuch striking deliverances in imminent hazards of life, that, unless
I had done it wilfully, and had obstinately resisted their admoni-
tions, I could not but be aroused to the most distinct feeling of the
necessity of determining what was truth, and of acting in conformity
to it."

ADVENTUEE ON BEACH Y HEAD.

AN ADYEXTUEE ON BEACHY HEAD.

In' tliG lino of loftv cliffs of clialk which form the soiitli-oastcrii
lioundary of England, tlie bold promontory known as Loacliy
Head is one of the most remarkable. Its elevation from the
level of the sea, when it lies calm in the sunshine at its base, is
five hundred and eighty-eight feet ; and as the situati(jn of the
cliff is one of the most exposed along the whole line of coast, it
follows that a moderate breeze suffices to send the waters chaflntr
and foaming up its rugged face. It will bo readily believed,
thereforCj that in a south-westerly gale gigantic waves come rolling
in with indescribable fur}'', bursting in tlmnder against the stupen-
dous wall of chalk rock, and throwing sheets of foam half way up
its entire heiaht.

The crest of the cliff is visible far out at sea ; tlie last cxph'ing
beams of day linger on its summit, tinting it with a rosy hue when
the sun has sunk to rest below the horizon. How manv a wistful
eye has looked upon it from the deck of the " outward-bound,"

" Wlieu slow tlio ship her foamy track
Ai:;ninst the whul was cleavinLT,
Her tlutterhig pendant looking buck
To that dear laud 'twas kavhig."

The young cadet, who has just torn himself from the embrace oT
liis widowed mother, has gazed upon it with a full heart as it
gradually faded away in the grey of evening ; and then, when
returning home after a lapse of twenty or thirty eventful y^-ars,
the master of wealth and honours, the well-remembered outline of
the cliff has met his eve in bold relief aii^ainst the brif/hteninir skv
at sunrise —

" While hoir.cward'^Kiund with fav'rin,!^ j^'alc
The gallant ship up channel stecicil,
And, scudding under easy sail,
The mighty headland lir^t app;'arc(l."

IlEMARKABLE ADVENT UKES.

]>ut anotlior picture still forces itself on the imagination : how
often in raging storms, while the good ship, laden with the
treasures of the East, and crowded with passengers, has bcdi
labouring in the trough of the sea, in the blackness of night ; while |
the captain has been pacing the deck anxiously, looking out to
ascertain his distance from that dreaded lee shore, a vivid flash has
lighted up the towering headland in all its ghostly whiteness!
Woe, woe betide the unhappy ship that in such a night has not
miles of sea-room ! If once she approaclies that frightful precipice,
her doom is sealed. At each successive flash of lightning the
stupendous wall of chalk is more vividly revealed ; while sheets of
foam are tossing themselves half up the height, and the thunder of
the sm-f is heard mingling with the thunder of the clouds, and the
booming note of the guns fired as signals of distress. A moment
more, and the noble vessel is lying a helpless wreck at the foot of
the rock. Such calamities have, alas ! been frequent ; and it was
off this point, about three years ago, and within sight of the cliff,
that the unfortunate " Dalhousie," bound to Australia, foundered
in deep water, when all on board perished except one solitary
seaman. The height of the clifl" has been already mentioned — it
is five hundred and eighty-eight feet ; but some readers may form
a better estimate of its elevation by comparing it with some objects
familiar to the eye. Well, then, the cross of St. Paul's Cathedral
appears a great height, as you look at it from the foot-pavement in
St. Paul's Churchyard — it is three hundred and forty feet ; and the
burnished top of the Monument of London is two hundred and
two feet from the ground ; but if some magician could take tlio
Monument between his fingers and thumb, and place it on the top
of the cross of St. Paul's, the height would still be forty-six feet
less than the top of Beachy Head, and he must put a good four-
story house on the top of all before the altitude of the mighty cliff
would be attained. With these preliminary remarks, we will now

AN ADVENTURE ON BEACH Y HEAD.

•ion: liow
Avith tlie
has been
Tht ; while
ing out to
d flash has
-svhiteucss !
ht has not
I precipice,
;htning the
le sheets of
thunder of
ids, and the
A moment
t the foot of
• and it was
of the cliff,
foundered
one solitary
entioned — it

begin our narrative of one of the most miraculous and merciful
escapes from deatli on record.

It was on a fine afternoon in September, in the year 18 — , that
three friends, young men, set out from the village of Eastbourne
to waliv to Beachy Head, the distance being about a mile and a
half. One of the three was a collector of fossils, and he took with
him the little hammer which he commonly used for breaking the
lumps of chalk which so often contain specimens of antediluvian
shark's teeth, echini, and shells. Arriving on the beach belo>/ the
cliff, they found the sea almost calm, and wandered about for soine
time searching for agates and pebbles ; and one of the three — the
fossil-hunter — found among the shingles a large spike-nail, a relic,
perhaps, of one of those fearful wrecks which are not uncommon at
this awful point. Perhaps he held the old superstitious opinion
that it is lucky to pick up and preserve any piece of old iron. At
all events, the spike-nail was safely deposited in his pocket, and he
wandered on, intently searching for fossils along the base of the
cliff, which frowned above his head. Presently he came to that
spot where a portion of the topmost strata of chalk has crumbled
away, and fallen like an avalanche upon the beach below, forming
a sloping rugged wall, to the height of about four hundred feet,
with numerous crags and fissures, which might tempt a chamois or
a hunted fox to search for a pathway, but which offered no likeli-
hood of a hold for human foot. But our narrative will perhaps
I proceed more easily and naturally in the language of the adven-
iturer himself.

" I was so occupied with my search among the masses of chalk
Iwhich lay at the foot of the cliff, that I had for a full half hour
[parted from my companions ; and when I raised myself from my
jstooping posture to look for them, I was surprised t find that I
tad gradually climbed a good way up a narrow shelving track,
diich seemed to present no obstacle to my further progress. ]\Iy

!"'-5l

If''

■ ^1

REMA11KA15I.K ADVJ'.NTUKES.

friends woi'o not in sight : iliey luid probably ^^m^^ along tliti beacli
b(>yond tho projoctiou of tlio lu-ndland. It wan of no conseijuonce ;
I shcridd SCO tliem presently ; and so I continued my ascent,
finding ironi time to time specimens which absorbed my att(Mition,
and made mo quite regardless of the increasing dilliculties of my
path. On a sudd<jn, however, 1 was starthxl by the scream of a
seagull, and, looking round me, was at once aware that I hnd
reached a point of considerable danger — that, in fact, it would be
quite impossible to rctrac^e my steps for the last twenty or thirty
feet that I had mounted, and that I had no alternative but to pro-
ceed onward, in the hope of finding a track by which I could
descend. In this situation I shouted to my companions ; but they
were not in sight, nor could I perceive any moving object on the
beach, which lay far below, or on the expanse of sea, over which
the sun now glared through a rising fog-l)ank in the Avest — a blood-
red disk resting on the horizon. No thno was to be lost; it wonlc
soon be dusk, and the peril of my path would be increased. At
every step my looting became more and more insecure ; and when
my hand or my foot loosened a fragment of chalk, down it went.
rushing and bounding and disturbing other projections in its course,
until I heard the sullen distant crash as they fell upon the beacli
below, and read in that sound a warning of my inevitable fate if I
should lose my hold.

" But to retreat was impossible. I had now arrived at a spot
where the cliff rose perpendicularly overhead. About twelve or
fifteen feet up was a fringe of grass, which gave me hope that
there must be a ledge of rock, which would afford a better footinir.
But how to reach it? How was it possible I could climb that
wall ? And should I fail ? It was an awful moment. We talk of
fervent prayer, and sometimes, when ensconced in our cushioned
pew at church, we think tiiat we are praying earnestly for blessings |
to be bestowed or daiigerii to be averted ; butt ^^ ^ bow dull and

AN ADVENTURE ON BE ACHY HEAD.

he btnicU

y aSlH!Ut,

,ies of my
-eiim of iv
lull I ln»'^
b vfo\\\(\ b(s
y or lliivty
Dut to pro-
:5li I could
i ; but tliey
jcet on tl\o
over Nvliicli
st — ablood-
5t; itwouU.
ireased. At
; and wlien
3wn it went,
111 its course,
11 tbe beach
ble fate if I

languid arc such prayers compared with tho aspirations of liim
w)^o is standinf^ on the brink of destructiou, alo»),e, as it were, with
God, while death hovers over liim in the gathering shades of night !
At such a time ho does indeed feel liis entire dependence on tlie
sustaining arm of Him who is ' mighty to save ;' and his heart is
strengthened and his ni^rves ar ^ braced while he remembers that
' the Lord is nigh unto all them that call upon him, to all that call
upon him in truth.'

" My situation was becoming desperate, and I liad not a moment
to lose. My hammer was still in my hand, and I recollected the
spike-nail I had found on the beach, and drew it from my coat
l)oc]vet. With the hammer I dug out little hollows in the chalk
for my feet, and then, driving in my spike above, I held by it
■while I cut the next ; and the next, and thus I proceeded in my
[slow and most hazardous task until, at the end of an hour, as
nearly as I could guess, and just as the dim twilight was deepening
[into night's darkness, I succeeded in clambering upon the grassy
ledge. Success was it ? I was at a height of four hundred feet at
least, and above me the cliff rose nearly two hundred more — its
)a]d and rugged top rather overhanging the narrow shelf on which
was crouching, so that to climb it, even if I had nerves of steel,
(V'ould have been entirely hopeless.

"At this moment my hammer, which had rendered me such

pood service, slipped from my hand and fell. I dared not watch

ts fall down that frightful precipice, but I heard its chinMng

)und as it struck two or three times against projections in its

)urse ; and it sounded on my ear like a funeral knell.

" It was now nearly dark, but I could just perceive two or three

bving figures on the beach, and I shouted to them with all my

)wer; but the distance Avas great, and the noise of the waves

)(m the shingle must have drowned ray voice. I saw them walk

Isiu'clyaway; and commending myself to the providential care of

100

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

■¥'

>lim who had preserved me thus lur, I made up my mind to tlie
necessity of spending the niglit where I was, with the faint hope
tliat at daylight I might bo able, by hoisting a signal of distress, to
obtain assistance.

" But now a new difficulty began to press upon me : hunger,
tliirst, and fatigue were taking hold of me ; my hands, swollen and
wounded, and my finger-nails, worn down to the quick by grappling
with the rock, caused excessive pain. Yet in spite of all this, I
began to feel a drowsiness which I dired not indulge; for there
was no friendly branch or twig to which I could fasten myself, and
to fall asleep on that narrow shelf of rock, would be to fall into the
sleep of death.

" From this imminent peril I was preserved in a manner whicli,
Avhile I live, will, I trust, ever dwell in my memory, and serve to
raise my aspirations of gratitude to Him whose merciful providence
is over . 1 his creatures, and who in this hour of misery and distress
sent me help in the form of a friendly sea-bird. A scream, and
tlien the flapping of a seagull's wing, roused me from my stupor.
It came and went as the bird wheeled round me, and then sailed
away far, far below. Another came and went, and came again;
and thus the pair hovered about me in the darkness, through the
^^■eary hours of that fearful night, and their screaming notes and
the flapping of their long wings, so near me at times as to fan my
i'ace, became as music in my ears, bidding me look up to Him who
alone had the power to save me from destruction. No doubt thej
poor birds had their nest in some crevice near me, and their natural i
efforts to scare away an invadei= of their territory, proved thej
means of safety to me. And so my eyes were • held waking,' aii(i|
I gazed on the deep blue sky, 'fretted with golden fires,' anJ
watched the great constellations — the Bear, and Orion, and Cassio-
peia — as they moved around their central star, and saw the planet |
Venus rise from licr ocean bed and walk the sky in silent beauty |

AN ADVENTIMJE ON UK ACHY HEAD.

ID!

j: hunger,
wollen and
y grapplin?;

all this, I

. for tbere
myself, and
fall into tlie

inner wbicli,
and serve to
il providence
r and distress
scream, and f
1 my stupor.
i then sailed g
came again;
, through the
ng notes and
as to fan my
J to Him who
Ho doubt the
[their natural I
r, proved th8|^
I'waking; andi
[en fires,' m
>n, and Cassio|
.aw the planer I
silent beauty."

I looked wistfully toward the caKst, and iongod, oh, how cai'nestly !
for the day.

" At length the first streak of liglit appeared, and from tliafc
moment my eyes were turned constantly to the beach below, in
the hope of descrying some fisherman, for I knew that they were
often early at their work. The light gradually increased, and I
was just able to distinguish objects at that distance, when to my
irroat joy 1 saw a man close to the water's edge. Hajjpily therc;
was little or no wind, and I had the better chance of making my-
self heard. I ^vaved my hat and my white handkerchief, and
shouted, using my hands as a speaking trumpet; presently the
man stopped, and turning slowly round, stood gazing at mo. 1
renewed my shouts, and was answered. The sound of his voice
rose distinctly to my ear, backed as I was by the reverberating
rock.

" * Hold on a bit,' he said, * and I'll tell the coast-guard
people.'

*' Here was a ray of hope ; but how could they help me ? There
was but one way that appeared possible — they might lower ropes
from the top of the cliff; but should I have the courage or the
I strength required for the ascent ? Yes, if it came to that, T Qmist
jfind resolution to meet a danger which scarcely equalled that to
[which I had been already exposed. I knew not how long a timo
lelapsed, for I had neglected to wind up my watch, but it seemed
[hours before I saw or heard anything of the promised assistance,
it last I heard, through the still morning air, a voice above my
lead, and, looking up, saw the heads of two men projecting over
the edge of the cliff; they were lying on their faces, and were
[owering a rope ; it looked but a thread as it swung gently back-
ward and forward in the morning breeze, and when at last it
cached the place where I stood, it was swinging more than a yard
rem me, because the edge of the clifl* projected so much. It was

I i

102

RKMAnKAHT-R AnVENTTTUES.

shftkoii, liowovor, by tho mon, [iiul ntill swinpjiim; l)ackwav(l u\u\
forwiinl. Watcliiiiijf my opportunity, I niu^h( tlio end and drow it
towards me. It laid a looj) tied in Hailor's fashion, and J know //<(//
Nvould not slip; but, alas! tho Jino was hut snuill, and 1 nincli
doubted if it woukl boar my woight — ]K5rha}>8 tho mon had nndor-
ratod fh((t — I'or T was near six foot lii^li, and woifj^liod nearly lour-
loon stone. .1 shouted to the men, ' AVill it Ix^ar mo?'

" ' Ay, ay,' was tho answer : * have you ji/u^A; •="

*' * Ay, 1 hopo so,' was my re[)ly.

*' ' Then make it last round your body, and Hwhip,' yourself (piii^tly
off — steady now I'

"I question wla^ther any crimin.al, when 8ubmittinf>; his neck iv
the ii'eudo {ittentions of the hangman, ever experienced a moiv
deadly sensation than I did at that moment. A cold damp stood
on my bi'ow, and my ht;art beat audibly as I passed the cord round
my chest, and secured it in front with the best knot I was master
of Then I knelt and looked up to the clear sky, and in a few
ierv(Mit words convmended myself to the Divine i>roteetion.

*' The men above called out : —

*' ' Say when you're ready.'

*' I l()ok(Ml up, waved my hand, and cried : —

" ' Now !' and feelinj^ the rope tightoninj:^ and lifting me, swrmr
myself off from the ledge, keeping my eyes fixed on the clift'asl
felt myself slowly rising. Presently there was a stop, and, lookiiiL'
up, I found that I was still about a hundred feet from the top. 1 i
could see but one of the men's heads, and he was in the act (;1
removing a large fragment of chalk which had been disturbed bv
the friction of the rope, and which, if it had fallen on my head
must have killed me instantly. He did succeed in removino: it;I
but, as I afterwards learned, I was held by his one companion
alone while his hands wore so occupied. Again I began to ascoiidj
and hope returned. I heard the voices of my deliverers as thy

AN ADVKNTITR?': OX PKACIIV IIDAD.

103

pivo oju'li othor tlio Avord to linnl to^oUicr; uiul I roao, and roHc,
niid Mt lust \\'\\ Tiiy wi'ists sci/cd liy a IVioHlly <j:;nisj), and fell
stretched iij)()H IIk! tiii'f'. I just licurd tlir liiinuh that was uttered,
and tlieii lor a time lost, ail coiiseiousneKS.

" W'iieii I rinived, 1 lound Jiiysell" in bed at {i litth' inn, wliero,
]»v th(^ aid ()\' kind and watehl'id eaiv, sncdi as J']n^lish liearts and
liands are ev<;r ready to bestow, 1 r(3eovcred in a lew hours from
the el'i'erls of my |)eril(ms advcuituro.

" It may readily be suppo.stKl tliid hucIi an esca|»<? befjinH! i\ui
]irevui]in<»' topic, of conversation, and tluit 1 was I'oi' soino days 'tlie
observed of all observers.' The impression left on my own niind I
will not pi'etend to (hserilx*. Thosci who read iny narrativf; will
believe how earnestly find how lieai'tily at church on the followin;:^
Sunday I joined in those expressions of thaidvl'nlnesH for daily j)re-
servatiou wifh which the Liturfj^y abouuds. On that same Sunday
evenin*,^ when alone; and unobserved 1 walkcxl at sunset on the
beach, and looked again upon the face of that terrible cliff, how
deej)ly did I feel tljo force and beauty of those passaf^cs in the
IValnis which had already cheered mo durinp^ the hm(dy watches
of that memorable nii;lit. With my Psalter in my hand, I lingered,
reading- and nnising until tlu; daylight faded; and when the moon
rose in calm serenity from the blue horizon of the m ido waters, and
] read figain by her light, words, which though bearing a deeper
and loftier meaning, may yet be reverently adopted to express the
utterances of a thaidvful and devout spirit, — * Whoso dwelleth
under the defence of the Most High, shall abide under the shadow
of the Almighty. Ho shall defend thee under his wings, and thou
sliidt be safe under his feathers; his faithfulness and truth shall
bo thy shield and bu(;kler.' * My soul hangeth upon thee : thy
right hand hath upholden mo.' * Thou shalt make room enough
under me for to go, that my footsteps shall not slide.' * I will lift
\ up nn'ne eyes unto the hills from whence cometh my help. My

- ■ ':' ,11'

n.m

) ;

104

lir,MAI{KAIU,i; ADVnNTIIIUilM.

1i(«l|H*()M)t>{lM>V(Mi Ironi i\\o Lonl. will) IimIJi nm<ii' Iwmivcmi and vnriU.
Wo will not Hiillor tliy foot lo Im' inn\ rd. niid lio llint k('<<|M>tIi IIum)
will not hI(m»|>. The Lord liiiusi'lf is (liy kiM'jJor, t\w Lord in thy
dcrcnci* upon thy ri^ht Imiul.' "

(

K()BniN(; Till-: \)\]\\\

A STNnUTiAU train of cinMiinslarn (^s occnircil in mo, many yoarw
au^o, which may 'mmto <o illnslrato Iho <l('Mlin}j;s of rrovidciicc.
Owing to a H<M*i(>8 of lu>)ivy |>nslonil lahonrM, I d(M<m('d it advisahh^
<o r(MM*ni( my (»xhanH((>d HlnMij;lh by Ji chanfj^o of air and Hcrnc,
and wns indnccnl lo pay a visit to one whom to hear wa'-s !o adiniiv,
antl whom to know was to osl(H'm — my valued friend, tlu> U(>v. W.

M , of K . Tlu^ good nam welcomed mo with his nsnnl

hos[>itality, and in the evening soim* hours w(M*o passed in various
important discussions. In the course of the conversation T men-
tioned a remarkahlo instance of what a[>peared to he an interposi-
tion of lVovid(Mice, to which my fri(Mid agreed, adding tliis ohserva-
tion : '* The man who watches tho leadings of IVovidenct^ will novcT
want a providenct* to watch."

Some months afttn'wards I was again a visitor at tlio house of
my fri(M\d, and said to him, "Do ycai reuKMuher tho ohs(M'vatioii
yon mad(^ when I last saAV you — *Tho man who watches tho h'ad-
ings o( IVovidence will never want a providence to watch ?' "

'' Certainly I do ; I remember it well."

" Then, if you please, I will regard that sentence as your text
this evening, and I will ofTer the commcnitary. You uttered what
I regard as an important truth, and the circumstances that arose
out of the events of that evening will contirm you in your opinion.
While we were conversing together that evening, if you remerabor,

iW)MniN(j Tin; i»i:,\n.

Ut:>

on I

niiny y<'«^''^

it, aiWisjiM'*

an<l H«'('»'',

t« to ndiniiv,

(U In^ »^"'»^
i\ in various

ion I wrw-
,u intorposi-
lis obsorvn-
•(> will novi I

tlio Borv/mt cuino into llio room t** in«|iiin< Cor liow rnniiy visitoivi
rlminltcrH wrn^ to l»o pro pared. You roplij-d, *J<\nir,' iiiohtionin^jj

Ar('lid<»Mvon II , Mr. V , and two otJHT ffontlonMrt, wIhiso

namoM I now forgot. I iinnx'diatoly ox<dainHd, ' My doir fVimd,
thcsn lour viHiiorH nniHt 1m» <M»?nin^ to you l>y a proviouH appoint-
nicnt.' Tim auHWor waH, ' Yoh, and tlioy cannot urrivo until a lato
hour.* * Thon,* was my roply, 'your Iiouh(» will liav<( onon^li to do
to ])rovido for all tlioHc^ ^uoHtH ; and, in conipaHHion to yon, as I am
a .self-invited viuitor, I will chan^o n«y [jImii, and not Htay licro thin
(ivcnin^.'

NonaouHo, my doar hIt ; I am doli^lit<yl to son you,* wan tlio

t< (

ply.

«( t

To stay would I

)0 11!. i'

MiHonablo ; thorofor(\ Icit an ol»stinat<

man liavo his own way.'

" ' W(dl, if you go, it in your owu art and deo(l. Will you visit
Mr. , tho churchwardon, who is often inrpiirinp; after you?'

" * No, I will remain with you until nino o'clock, and then taku
my leave.'

"At nu 10 o'clock 1 took my departure to tho hotel to which I
waR recommended, and was whown into a private room. Findin^^
it was too eju'ly to retire to rest, I requested of tho waiter the
morning or i\iv> evening paper.

" * I am sorry, sir,' said tho man, ' hut tho paiK3r3 are gone ; it is
after the hour at whi(;h wo d(\s|)at<'h them.'

" * Never mind ; do not take any trouble about it.'

" The waiter withdrew, and in about a quarter of an hour entered
tho room with a paper in his hand.

" * In one of the supper rooms, sir, I have foimd a paper ; it is
about ten days old, but I thought you might possibly like to see it,
so I have brought it down.'

" * Thank you ; it will do very well, I have no doubt, for the
I short time I have to spare.'

-Hi.

. 1

lOG

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

||f!

ifli

>i: nil

" I bogan to read, and the first paragraph attracted my attention
by its singular heading, namely, * Robbing the Dead.' Its sin-
gularity led nie to read il. It was to this effect : That an examina-
tion uad been carried on before one of the police magistrates in
London, in consequeiKM) of a robbery committed at sea. A gentle-
man from Honduras, in a delicate state of health, had taken his
passage to England, and during the voyage he became exceedingly
ill, and died. Shortly after his death, the cabin-boy observed tho
mate enter the gentleman's berth, and, induced no doubt by
curiosity, the boy watched the mate, and saw him take a bag, whicli
]ie supposed to contain money. This bag the mate secreted in the
hold of the vessel. The cabin-boy immediately informed the
captain, a search was made, and a bag of dollars was found neai*
tlie spot described. The mate was put into irons, and when the
vessel arrived in the river, was handed over to the police. The
evidence before the magistrate being conclusive, the offender was
committed for trial. "J'he deceased gentleman was a stranger to
tlie captain and the crew, and was known to them only by name.
1'lus name, mentioned by some of the witnesses, was one that was
very unusual, and it occurred to me as I read it that I had heard
it before, and that a family bearing it, or something very like it,
lived in my neighbourhood; I therefore copied the paragraph into
my pocket-book.

" Early the next morning I proceeded on my journey, and
arrived at my own home about mid-day ; but feeling very mucli
impressed by the paragraph, I lost no time in proceeding to that
part of the parish where the family I had in view resided. It con-
sirtted of an elderly lady, the widow of an officer, and her daughters.
I paid them a pastoral visit, and in the course of conversation 1
remarked, 'I think I have not the pleasure of seeing all your
familv ?'

*0]>, no,' was tho reply; *but I hope you will see tliem nil.

ROBBING THE DEAD.

107

attention

Its sin-
examina-
strates in
A. gentlc-
takcn hi^
tceedingly
served the

doubt by
bag,wbicli
eted in tlie
ormed the
found neai*
i vrhentbe
)olice. The
ffender was

stranger to
ly by name.

ne tbat wa?
had beard

very like it,

•agrapb intu

and tliat veiy soon, for I am expecting my noble and darling son
home.'

" ' Indeed; then he is abroad, I presume ?'

" ' Yes ; and we have had charming letters from him ; he lias
been employed by the British Government, and he tells me that
the authorities have made honourable mention of his name, and,
as a mark of their approbation, that they have presented him with
iive hundred pounds for a very difficult survey which he has
recently accomplished. In his last letter, which was from Hon-
duras, lie tells me that he is about to return to England, that he
may again see his mother and sisters ; and I cannot express how
anxiously we are longing for his arrival.'

" I made no remark, but immediately withdrew, and dispatched
n letter to a relation of the funnily, living a few miles distant. In
this letter I gave an outline of the circumstance, and requested his
attendance. He arrived, after some delay, and in great tribula-
tion ; at tlie same time telling me he had searched for the paper I
had named, but that, although it was not a fortnight old, he could
not ])r()cure it, and there was no mention of the affair in other
ne\vs[)apers. At length, by the aid of a friend, he had found a
copy of the journal, and saw at once that my fears were too well
founded. He entreated me to proceed with him to the lady's
liouse, and to make known, in the most prudent manner I could,
the sad intelligence that would bring the bitterest sorrow into their
household. I accompanied him as he desired, and made the com-
numieatioii, guarding it in every way that truth would permit ; but
th(^ instant tlie object of our visit was conjectured, the aged mother
fell to the floor, and the sisters of the deceased officer were scarcely
I less aiitated.

"A\'hon the sufferers had in some degree recovered from the
|Bhoek which this blow to their fondest hopes had naturally caused,
the cpiestion aros(\ What is the Ix'st thing to be done ? I urged

108

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

that their relative should proceed immediately to London, apply
at the police office, make himself known to the magistrate, learn
all the particulars, and take the proper steps to secure for the
widow and her daughters whatever property there might be in the
vessel belonging to the deceased. The advice commended itself to
the approval of all ; and the gentleman took his place to town by
that night's mail, and the next day had an interview with the
magistrate, who was disposed to render his aid, but required some
additional evidence of identity. In this perplexity the relative
produced my letter, which, as it professed to come from the incum-
bent of the parish, and bore the proper post-mark, the magistrate
accepted as satisfactory, and ordered an officer to accompany the
gentleman to the dock, where the vessel was expected to be taking
in her cargo.

" The vessel was found preparing to sail. On the authority being
exhibited, the captain stated that he had taken possession of six-
teen packages which the deceased had brought on board the
vessel, and that, as he knew not the officer's connections, he had
fixed his seal upon all of them, that they might remain without
loss until a claimant was found. These cases were immediately
placed under the charge of the police officer, and in due time
opened before proper authorities. Among the papers of the de-
ceased was a memorandum as to some funds belonging to him iii

the hands of Messrs. C and Co., army agents. When the due

forms of law had been complied with by the widow, as the nearest j
of kin, the funds in the hands of the agents and the valuable con-
tents of the sixteen packing cases became the property of thej
bereaved family; and I have reason to believe that it was found i
large enough to make a very desirable addition to the income of his]
weeping mother and his sorrowing sisters.

" Now," I concluded, " all this appears to have been gained for]
them by the circumstance of my hearing your servant's inquirjJ

EOBBING THE DEAD.

109

m, apply
ite, learn
e for the
be in the
id itself to
,0 town by
with the
lired some
tie relative
the incum-
) magistrate
DBipany the
to be taking

^lority being
fssion of six-
board the
ions, he had
nain without
immediately
in due time
:s of the de-
^g to him iu
hen the due
[s the nearest |
aluable con-
jperty of the |
it was found
income of his

ken gained foi
(ant's inquiry,!

and then, in spite of your entreaty, resolving not to remain that
night as your visitor. Thus, he that watches the hand of Provi-
dence will never want a providence to watch."

CHAPTEE II.

After the accession to the widow's income arising from the dis-
covery of her son's property, which I had been providentially the
means of securing, I became a more frequent visitor, aiid was at
times consulted upon family affairs. The eldest daughter, a young
lady of pleasing manners and personal attractions, gave me to
understand that she thought of accepting an offer of marriage
which had recently been made to her by a gentleman who visited
at the house with her mother's sanction, and she added that all
points were satisfactory save one, and that one was a source of
uneasiness. Her suitor was a confirmed Unitarian, and she men-
tioned the subject to me as her pastor, asking for my advice ; but
at the same time hoping that, as her mo'her highly approved of
the proposed alliance, I should not deem his religious sentiments a
fatal obstacle. The mother and the young lady were evidently
anxious to obtain from me a favourable opinion. My reply was :
** If you are in earnest in religion, how can you expect the Divine
favour to rest upon such an alliance ? No worldly advantages can,
in my judgment, compensate for the dangers of such a step. Any
person believing in the Divinity of Christ and the atonement
offered by him, falls i^to error by forming an alliance with a gen-
tleman, however amiable, who spurns the doctrine of the Trinity
and the Divinity of Christ: therefore, if my opinion be of the
slightest weight in your estimation, I am bound in sincerity, but
in all courtesy, to express it, by declaring that I am, and must
continue to be, opposed upon principle to the marriage."

After this expression of my sentiments, in obedience to their

:!i:' . 'i

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

request, I still continued ir./ visits as a pastor, but soon perceived
that, liowever politely these might be received, th(iy were less
acceptable tliaii in former times. Yet, as a clergyman's duties
must be discharged in the shade as well as in the sunshine, under
painful as much as under pleasing circumstances, I continued tlio
visits as before, aiid made known to the young lady the arguments
which are employed by our learned divines to confute the errors of
Socinianism, and to prove the Divinity of Christ. These arguments,
confirmed by reference to the Scriptures, were not without a good
effect.

Not long afterwards sickness entered the family, and the young
lady was coniined to her chamber and her couch. I attended daily
for a considerable time; at length, observing from her remarks
that a favourable impression had been produced on her mind, and
that she no longer regarded the arguments which assailed the plan
of redemption and the Deity of the liedeemer as innocent, I said
to her : " My dear young friend, your views of the i-tedeemer and
his great work are far more scriptural than they formerly were ;
but they are still defective. I am sure that this illness has in-
fluenced your mind, and is, possibly, one of the ways by which
Providence is guiding you to a correct knowledge of that which
relates to your eternal welfare. You are in earnest, and I fully
believe in your sincerity ; and under the conviction that ' none shall
seek God in vain,' I declare to you this day, in the name of the
living God, that peace of mind and eternal life shall be yours, if
you will accept them on the conditions given in that very book
which now lies by your side ; and these are the conditions — iiiith
in Christ as God over all, and the making a solemn surr'^^der of
yourself, and of all that relates to your welfare, for time and for
eternity, into the hands of Christ as your Kedeemer.

On the following day she informed me of her firm determination
to relinquish the acquaintance of her Sociuian suitor. Time aftci-

ROBBINa THE DEAD.

Ill

wards proved tho wisdom of this decision, for other reasons besides
that of his creed. After this declaration of licr Christian faith, the
sufferer appeared to make rapid progress in the knowledge of
divine things. Among her acts of piety was a deep anxiety, pru-
dently manifested, for Iho spiritual welfare of those around her.

Our duties were now changed ; and I, who was wont to go to
her couch as her pastor and teacher, went to leam from one who
appeared to live above the world while living in it : a heavenly
atmosphere seemed to be shed around her chamber, and even a
visitor felt constrained to say, " Surely this is the portal of heaven."
Though unable to move from her couch, her faculties were not only
uiiimpairad, but they became more vigorous. Her time was passed
in prayvT, in studying the Scriptures, and in very pious and liap-
j)ily expressed exhortations to her mother, her sisters, and her
friends ; and by the beautiful manner in which slie exhibited piety
in her own person, she proved a comfort to those who came to
comfort her.

Some time after I said to her and her friends : " You must lend
me to some other people for a short time, for I have received an
offer of preferment ; and I am c .lious, before I decide, to visit the
place."

She exclaimed, " You are not going to leave me ?"

" Only," I said, " for about ten days."

'.rho next evening being Saturday, I arrived at my destination ;
and on the Sunday I undertook the duties of the church, intending
to do the same on the following Sunday, and return at the end of
the ten days. The reception I met with from the patron and others
was kindness itself, courteously expressed; there was everything
to make the visit agreeable to me ; yet on the following morning I
arose greatly depressed, and I announced to my kind host that,
although I was perfectly well in healtli, I was so unhappy from
some unknoNvn rca-on, that T felt it my duty to return home imme-

112

llKMAUKAni-K ADVMNTlIinW.

<Iinl<^ly. All lluMr infliimco \\\\M to rlmtifrn my pnrposo. Without
tli(^ losR of a inoincnt \ ninvivd for home ; iiml oil my wuytlio ooach
h<(>|)|)(m1 for a limo at tho largo town of J\r :

A (linirulty lioro ])roHpntcMl itsolf. At a Rliort distanco from tho
town thoro resided a lMMi(>volont man, who folt an intoroRt in our
pchools, and having somo relatives residing in my parish, I thought
it ])ossil)lo that he would give me live pounds towarda the infant
sehool if I cimld only sec him, as he knew tln^ efforts 1 was nuiking
and the need there was of funds. I walkcvl to an<l fro, perplexed,
jis I thought of the want« of the sehool, and also of iho states of my
siek fri(*nd. At length, so slrongly did the subject occupy my
mind, that I said almost aloud, *• 1 will not call on this good man,
hut I will go home to attend to one of (lod's children, and I will
trusl to (iod t«, |)rovido for his own schools."

In a few momenta 1 had resumed my seat in tho coach, under a
linn impression that I had deci<led prudently, and that 1 was in tho
path of duty. I reached my own house at midnight. 1 found tho
family all up at tluit unusual hour ; and tho moment I entered, the
cry was, '* \>'o are delighted you have come home : tho young lady
lias been sending almost hourly this evening to know if you had
returned."

" S(>ndini;* every hour I" I exclaimed ; " how is that? I stated to
the family that I was to bo absent for ten days. Thoro could be no
niis\nul(n*stunding, for they all knew it."

" True ; still, so it is : they have been sending, at the sick lady's
voquost, almost every hour."

Hearing this, without any regard to tho time, I started for my
frienil's house, and reached it about one o'clock in the morning. 1
found the family all up, and assembled round the couch of the sick
lady. The instant I entered, the invalid, gently raising her hands
io heaven, siiid, " Thank God, thank God ! my prayer is answered.
1 foil sure } ou would come. I am dying ; but I have prayed to my

ItOimiNO TIIR DKAP.

11.3

lif'dYonly Fnflirr flint, lin would not hi mo dio until you rrtnmod,
Ihnt 1 niif^hi tlinnk yoii JMrforo [ dio."

Sli(» JIh'U ifiquoHtcMl tlififn to raiso hor a littlo ; and takinf^ my
liandH within lu^r own, and looking at mn moflt fiarnoHtiy, nho cricfi,
in a voico ro Rolnmn, ho canH'st, yvi bo affnctionato, that it thrilled
through my heart, " Oh, my Hpintual father, my hrother, my
friend, may the f^ood and great (iod hIeHH you for what you liave
done for me. 1 am dying ; yoi I am full of joy and f»eaco. May
every mercy and (JVf^ry hleHsing deHcend upon you in this world ;
and, Tuy b(^Ht r>f friendn, may you and I Hit down together at the
marriage HU])per of the Lamb." 'J'huH saying, she reclined her head
on her couch, and died.

With palpitating heart I returned home, filled with joy, though
borne down with Horrow. How great the privilege to receive the
fervent blessing of ono whose gentle spirit was jus entering tho
regions of light !

In tho morning, at an early hour, I again visited the family, and
described to them tho sensi) of desolation which I had experienced
during my late absen(;e, explaining that, although among the most
attentive of friends, this feeling of sadness had caused me to change
all my plans, give up my visit, and without loss of time return
home. I mentioned also ray deliberation as I passed through the

town of M , and my resolution, although it might be a loss of

five pounds to tho school, to go home and try to comfort one of
God's servants, trusting the care of the school to God's providence.
I then produced a letter whi(;li tho postman had put into my hands
as I came out of tho house that morning. The letter was from the
merchant I mentioned as likely to contribute five pounds towards
the school, if I could have called upon him, and explained our
position from want of funds. The loiter was very short, and simply

said that he had heard of my being in M , and that as I had

passed through his town without coming to see him, he would

wMMAiiKAiHJ-; ai»vii]ntuim;h.

|Minisl) mo for niv no^IrM'f — whicli li(» (\'u\ l»y ruclosiiip; mo (llfy
l^onnds. \\\u) slinll sny Ihnl <^hI will not proviMo lor liJM own

work? I flion nllndod <o llto Inah ji

ono ol pioty

tv hI

low?)

l.v fl

dopnrtod <l\nJn^- Ihm- illnoss. nnd nskod if it woro not flmir wish to
nnHnho of \\or {ov Mnd to l)o sluiroiM in lior I'olicilv. I MH^od tlnMn
it 1h(»y wonld Mccompunv mo into tlu^ oIIkm* room, inul tlion*, with
minds RolomnizfMJ by tl)(* Rootus joiti with mo in kncolinf;' by llio wido
of tliiMv 8Min1(Ml sis((M\ ])rMyin!v tliMt l>y ({odw inflnmco npon tlioir
n\in<lM thon^ miulit lu» no so)>Mrii<i»)n in nn (»tf»rnnl *vorld. nnd thai,
on iho morn of <h(^ rostniv^ction. wo mi^;ht all ariH(» to Ixdiold ChriHt
RM onr llodocMncM*. and roccMvo hin hh'ssin^.

Thoy all r(^adily oonjpliod. and Iho proposal appoannl to hr'wns,
roli(M' to thoir sorrow. \\\vY ga/infr upon iho hoaulifnl and ]da('i<l
form of tho d(^]>art<nl. wo all l<n«dt in ]>rayor to Christ for his IMvini^

(^ssmg n]>on tho survivors, askm

that

wo mi

f>ht I

)or()me ]>ai

rt of

Christ's holy family, and ho intor<^stod in all tho moroic^a of (iod,
obtainod for {h<^ pouit(Mit and bolicning throujrh tho atouonuMil.
As (tod works by moans, and as ])rav(M- was otV(Tod to liim vvlio ap-
])oiuto<l it, and who promis(Ml to l)loss it, I humbly trust and boliovo
tliat lh(^ " sighiuiis «^f ji (^>n trite lioart and th(» di^sin^s of thorn that
woro ]>onitont"' wovo hoard and answon^l on that oooasion; for from
lliat day vho atlliotod mothiM* and tho W(V^ping sistorn W(To, in tho
mi(ist o( t1\(nr ariof. mad(^ partak<M'8 of tho dojvn-tod sistor's joy.

" ^bvv T not. mv d(\\,r friond. sa^^ that a most rinnarkublo train
of ]n'ovid<MiO(^s has o(Vurr(Hl sin(\> 1 last was your guost?"

'* I grant it most roadily." said iMr. M .

" But 1 havo not yot tinishod," was my reply, "for I have a thiid
part io add."

" \Miat was it? 1 long to hear it, ibr ono laet tolls more than a
hundred jirgunK^nts."

*' As you may sup}>i>se, tho litYy iH>uuds ooming to u\o at that
inomoT'1. and ur.dor thc^so eirenmstauoos, caused mo more ploitsmv

ItOHDiNn IHK hi Ah.

llfj

mo iil'ty

liiK own

by <^»'^

(M'(\ wiii»
|)(»n ll><»iv
)Ul OhriHl
to l»riiuj;

his Divine

ne V"''^' *'^
08 of (Jo<l,

ni vvlu) a])- I
lul V)oliovM>
thorn tlii<<
; Tor iVoui

ot^\ i»^ ^^^*'

r H joy.

able train

|li;in I «'im ('xprcsM, nnd I'xr rrion* tlmii Hit' doiKitioii itst'll' conld
cnnlrr, I MUi not vny lond ol' HJIriit n;ruliliid(' : it" vv(! I'crl lliankfid
In (Jud or In man, \v«> (Hi^dil, to sliow it, ycai know, f tliankod my
licncvolmt friend, of cniiiKf', l)ut F did not. cMid hnro ; for, b^fin^^
ilt'li^djtcd wijh \m ^<'iio?'()Rity, [ niado known in rny pastoral visit?*
lliiH kind act, to bo addod to many othorH whioh i\ui |M'0))Io of tJio
lown l\ad rccpivod ni bis liandn. Not many monthtt after ttjo
nM'(»i(»t of \m b»ttor, a va(aT»py orcnrred in tbo r(!pr(!Rontafcion of
l|j(^ fown in parbafncnt, and I nr^od thiw kind-boartc^d man, an I
know bo poHRCHMcd (^xporioneo, Joinnn?, and amplo mratiH, to offer
liiniMelf as a, earididato; and althon^b I eoiild take no part in tbo
clooiion, I lioaHily \viMlie<l bim KnooosM. lU) oomplifid witb tlii.s
wImIj, and proKontoil biirisolf before liin ecaiHfitnonts at the proper
linio. Mis [xditienl vif^wH were in nnJMon with the spirit of tbo
plMoc, and the roHnlt waH nliown in my reecivin<^, a few weeks after-
wnnls, what my frir'nd termed an invitation to a p^rmtbiman to dino
in a kitclion. I aeooptod tiie invitation, and saw on the oecaKion,
■AH my noi;i,bbours, tbo bite Sir liobort Peel, and otber members of
pnrbainont, dining at JJeliamy's, whieb was generally known as ' the
l\it(']ion' of tiio old IFonso of (Commons.

'* Il(»r(\ my ujood sir, <»ndR my ilbistration of your text when wo
liist mtt in this room: ' lb' that watehes the hand of I*r(widence,
will never want a ])rovidonoo to wateh ;' and I, whilo I live, .shall
ever bless God that \ rofid the para<i;raph beaded ' liobbing the

1)0!k1."'

tvo a Ibivd
lovG tbau n

Lo at Ibat

[o plOiUslUX'

nEMARKAHLR ADYKNTITHRH.

lUTRlKl) ALIVJ] IN THE SNOW.

THE WONDERFUL ADVKNTUllK OF M|{H. KMZADKTII WOODCOOK.

The l>ost introdiiotion to tho following romurkublo narrutivo will
bo tlio l(>ttor of tho clorgymaii by whom it. is communic^atod.
**Ono ovoning," ho says, "during tho rociMit snow stonns, 1 rolatiMl
tho story which aocompanios this iioto to a large party of frionds.
This lod to a jiroposal that I should writo tho narrative for tho
Roligious Tract Society. I was unable at once to complete the
manuscript, and desired to make the details as accurate as I could.
I fhid the story is given, with some variations, in Hone's * Every-day
l^ook ;' but I have reason to believe that my narration, with more
details, is the most correct. Many a winter evening has been be-
guiled, when I was a boy, by the story of Elizabeth Woodcock, from
the lips of my now venerable mother, who ' served ' Mrs. W. on thjit
well-remembered day, w jus personally acquainted with all the persons
mentioned, and heard the story of the dream and the finding of
Mi-s. W. from the lips of the dreamer himself, and to whom I have
submitted this written account."

It was still bleak winter on Saturday, February 2iid, 1799. Tho
bare hedges and nearest skeleton trees, flecked with partial white,
sto(xl out with their branches and stems looking hard and dark
against a imiformly leaden sky; the more distant objects of tho
landscape assumed the striking spectral tenuity which is observable
in a misty atmosphere before the fall of snow ; whilst " the extreme
distance," as artists call it, could not be seen at all, the distinction
between cloud-land and solid earth being lost in impenetrable
vapour. On such a day, few persons would wish to quit their
homes ; but the claims of the market were imperative on country
farmere or their wives. Produce must be sold and provisions laid
in for the coming week. In all weathers it was their habit to go.

mTTMRI) AT.IVK IN Till) HNOW.

117

Amon^ tho mark(»t-p;<)iiipf "vvomon, oii ihut day, wns Mrs. Eli za-
l)('tli Woodcock, tho wilo of a fiirmcr at Jiiipin^'toii, in ( 'ainl»ii(l<j^c-
sliiiv, familiarly known as I'ctty Woodcock. ^\n) net out for
(•and)rid^«^ on horsc^hack, duly prepared for tho thrcatcninfjj Htorni,
luivinjj; a l(»n^ haskr^t, UHcd for carrying butter in yards (tlie form
in which it in prepared for tho Cambridge nuirket), Htrapped btjhind
her saddle.

Safely arrive<l at Cambridf^e, Mrs. Woodcock diH[)OHC!d of her
farm j)rodnco in the niarket-placo, besitlo tho well-known llobson's
conduit, and then went to a nhop btjhind tho Town Hail, at that
tim«^ occupied by ]\L'. ilallack, where she was wont to lay in her
weekly store of groceries. She was served by Mr. Hal lack's
(laugh tor-iu- law, to whom she was well known, who perfectly
well remembers that memorable day, and who describes Mrs. W.
us a small handsome woman, with singularly bright and beautiful
eyes.

In those days it was au almost universal custom for travellers
and market people to take " a dram," or " something to keep out
the cold." Many thought it essential to do this ; more deemed it
salutary ; but some even then feared it as a dangerous pra(3tice.
Of th(»s(^ last Mr. H. was one. Whilst Betty was giving her orders,
and gathering her store into her basket, the snow was falling thick
and fast, threatening to come thicker and faster still. "Only
look," said the kind and pious man, address'ng his customer —
"only look, neighbour Woodcock, at the weather. See what a
night this is likely to be. Do make the best of your way home,
and don't stay to get your * drops' before you go."

On leaving the shop, Mrs. W. went to the inn where her horse,
" Tinker," was put up, and, meeting with an acquaintance, who was
indebted to her husband for hay, received of him a considerable
sum of money in the presence of several other persons, and, after
the prevailing fashion, " treated " him vdtli a " glass of something

'1 1:1

,1 M:?

I. i 1

Ill

11M

l?r'',M MfKAIM.T'l AI'VI'lNTVin'M.

wnnn." Pi9VfYinvi1in;> i]\o (Vii>ntl)\ ^vM^MiM•>, nl" Mr. II . 'Jh' Ihthi'II'
Unvfooh «>f n Rimilur " Iii»n1." Ainnuii llic ^wimoih ]iiiwh( wih u
niniMtor looluM}!: Pt'iH^n'''. ^^ll•» n'^^i^lcil \\rv Im iMljiiMf ccrluin pMcIv
n^c"^ on liov IhM'HP. inwl wiis Ml»on< (()f>i\(' lur i\ IhmhI Im imninl.
Snoh |>oli((>n('M« «l<<wt'r\('<l Roinf r»'«»oL'niliitii. wo llic Mlitmf'or \\\\\^t \u<
" <ron<o<l." iind i»Knin HfifvnniMi i«nj()\ m lil<»' imliilfiont'c.

'PI.

" i'orliiiod." MM sho pos^il>l\ iniMoJnnl, MpiinMl llii' wi'mIIut, fjln*
i)n>nn1<Ml " TinUrr,"* mul hv\ »>!i< on Imt iMMnownnl jonnu'V. 'I'lii'
snow «'Mnu» (lown in iiu^wi wwirlH «lrivon Itv iho win<l, IimH' lt|jn«lin(!:
Mn<l 8rt«llv Itontnnlnnp; 1l\(» trnvollcv. "I ll\jnl(." rmvm m Rm'vivinjv
wifnoPH, " I linvo not P<M»n nnfl) n unoM pjovni Minn' (luH nifi;hl nnlil
vooonllv.''

l/i)1o Ihnt ovonintr, Mr. IMorviiifilon. n finnxr ol hn|»in(i;(on. nwi
Mr, \\oo(lco(»U coniinu: <Von< liiw Jnvni. nmi Iwiilod Iiini. " W liij.lirr
nwrtv. n«Mi>])1)onr. tins ronjvli nif^ht ?"

'• I'm «>oinf> 1o loo)< lor Hojiy." mms llio reply : *' hIio Iimm not ycl,
•vol homo ihmx niMrKot."

"()h."*sni<l Air. iM.. " nc^cM' niin<l ; slio'll Inrn np ri|>l)( «'fionoli |»v
i\}\i\ h\. TMonn\vliil(\ ronio nn<i Imvo m alnsw with n\(> " jin invifii-
lion linl ioo rosulily !\nN^]><(>(l : lor. h;\i\ ho \<o\\\ <o Iuh ori^innl
int<M\<ion. INtr. \V. >vo\il«l most likidy hnv(^ l»rr,\igh< ])t\oU \m wil'o
tlint niaht.

Aflor M >vhil(\ iho hovso owmo homo without his niiRtrosH. i\\u\
iho lMisl>Mn<i. >vith rt ronipHnion mi<l n lnnt(Mn, not lorlh in nnxionn
l)ast(^ to s«^«^l\ lior. No trrtco <N>nM ho Und : no tidinju.M conld ho
(^btflin : ovon t\\\or pMUg to t''}nnhri<lir«\ In* ronld only lonrn whou
Mini lu'tw sl\(^ 1(^1\ the inn. Mor<^ ilisturlx^l thnn ovor. lio took his
jounK^y lioni('war«l apiii'., vainly si^irchiiig- jilonjii tho snow-covon^d
road tor sian or traoo io 'Aooom^i lor th(^ ndssin;^- wiio. N(M"ahh(>urs
woro ronsod, }«orvants S("'nt out, and ss(\Mr<'h <N)n1inn(Ml all niahl.
TSoxt morning Mr. \V. ro1nrn<^d io (\'imhrid;r(\ to toll what ho
know. an«i to hoar if lhor<^ w<n-<> nnvthinir tliat others conld toll :

Mi'i'ini* Af,ivi IN 'IFr^; know.

1lf»

lu>vm'ir

WIH II,

inonnl.
\\\<^\ I""

rr. mIi''

ilimlin}^
nvivinp:
h\ until

on. nw'l
WlnllMr

( n(»i V<M'

ion^l> l»y

li\ invilii-

ori^innl

luM \vil<*

nnxioUH

•n \vlH>n
llooU liif^

-COVCMTtl

|l niu'l^l.
ivhnt b«>
Ilia toll ;

v»'l Im> Irfii'iioil tut niMi"* lliMii liM hru'W l>««(i(i«>. ^'ofijcfftno wrm
IniHy. Vnr H<'V«'nil dny^^! Hif rniintiy wmh rx|»l<»if>r|, (ind wnrcfi wmm
iiiimIp ill III'' <iHM)Mir |>i|tHi'H, MH il nvmh (Iikmi'IiI |»'iM^ilil«> flint sorrwof
fill' ii'slli'MH liilic iiii('lil liii\f' Im f'li |ffii|il(»l Id |Im> f|»iiili|i> criirM' of
kiKIm'iv iiihI miinl»'i. 'I'lu- hIimhi,^''!' who Iih'I mccm 1VI|'<. VV, rcprivM
iiioiH'y. wlio IiimI Iwi'm •• lr»'Hf<(l " lor Ihm |ioliffin'H4, wIio Imil HHsiKh-d
lln> IohI. woinim in lior Miwltllr, mimI who hnd not. \u'ri\ H(n<'f« acfu or
lipurd of, wiiH HnM|UM'1«'<| III' Imvinif; Wfiyhiid nri'l iriiir'l«'r«'d fho fni-
vi'lh'i lor Iho RiiKo ol' hor imrRc; niid mm (hJH Him(iinori h(I'1hi<\ fo
hi' jiIiiiiHihh' onoufdi. n liiic tiiid «'iy wmh rnis^d Mf'l<r tlir\ Htmn^'o
mim, nml '• drlocliv' i," hihIi mm IIimI rhiy coiihl prodii.n, w<to wt
lo Hf'oU hJH liMcli. Allor M dny or two, liMffH of Htf'|m wMr- dj^-
rnvcrod n«Mi?' n |»ond, jMwonijMmiod with u truil ol hloorl upon tJKi
Hiimv. Hero, then, wmh thiTo not m. riiif ? 'I'ho pond wmh KOMrcInd
in nvory pnrl.hnt llio wMn-h rovoMh'd nothirifj^ foff»rillrrn KUHpifion.
It WMH Koon MHcortMiiifd iliMt. the Mood wmh not, tlint of m, fniird''n'd
woiiiMH, JMit oi' M, Hhni|.ditoM'd luiro, which Inid iMcn horno Mlonj.' oy
Hoiiio HnffPHHl'iil BporlHniMn. I'lvory onr^ wmh nt (miiII. Thfi wholo
week pMHHod mavmv, ho tluit. SiitnrdMV <'M?iio round M;(Min without Mny
iinportMnt, diHcovfM'V, nnd withont, llio Hli{(ht«'Ht int'orrmition likely
It lend <o ii. Tho ^rronpn ol' pMHHon^orH rh thoy wrrit, to fnarlif-t,
the |i;oHRipH [\.\ iho HtnllM, inuh'Hnicn ntid riiHtoniorH in whopM, Mrid mII
thn "town Mild ((own" hoHidoH, tMJlo'd over tho wonder, and tho
nmjority <'on«'lnd(Ml thai tlio Ml'lair wmh one of IhoHe, perplexinj^
niVHlorica lor which no HutiHructory Holution wuh Jikrdy to ho
iouiid.

On ♦SMturday ni^lit (I'^ohniMiy IMh) Mr. Mom'n^ton, w]if)Ho irifet-
iuf.!, with farmer Woodcock a W(!nk het'oro huH hccjn already noticed,
was diHtnrb<'d un<i annoyed by a dreain, wliich frf^piontly recurred.
Not so I'aHt, my friend. Jf you anticipate m, ntory of a inarvcllouM
drcinn, almoHt amonntinii,- to a rovolation, by wlnVdi tho wholo bu.si-
iKss was nuido piMin. you will l»<^ (iisMp})ointcd. And you, my

rtll.

km
I nil

«4. :,'S

120

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

friend, who despise dreams altogether, do not venture to say that
dreams have never any significance. We know that some dreams
have been recognised as Divine in their source ; "for God speaketh
once, yea twice ; yet man perceiveth it not. In a dream, in a
vision of the night, when deep sleep falleth upon men, in slumber-
ings upon the bed." (Job xxxiii. 14, 15.) Although a large pro-
portion of dreams may be wholly frivolous, he must be more than
sceptical who can deny that some dreams have been suggestive and
useful. Mr. M.'s dream had no apparent relation to the lost
woman, and yet it led to her being found. The dreamer was a
keen sportsman, and his visions of the night were quite in charac-
ter. He dreamed that, in a certain spot on the road between
Impington and Cambridge, he saw, and traced to its form, a
remarkably fine hare.

On the Sunday morning, having an engagement to dine in Cam-
bridge, he set forth to walk thither, the snow-covered ground just
yielding to a thaw. He thought no more of his dreams till he
came to the place where " he saw in his dream " that the hare ran
across. An idle whim, an unaccountable impulse apparently — but
was it not rather a providential suggestion ? — induced him to turn
a few steps from the road, to examine the position of his visionary
hare. He was thus led to notice a small hole in the surface of an
untrodden drift of snow, and was startled by hearing a feeble voice
in a tone of distress, crying, " Help ! Help !" He looked around
for the speaker, but not a creature could be seen. The cry was,
however, repeated ; and as he stood more and more bewildered, he
was astonished to see a corner of a black silk kerchief thrust up
thi'ough the hole in the snow, almost at his feet. He guessed at
once whose voice he had heard, and exclaimed, " What ! Betty
Woodcock, is that you ?"

The buried woman was delighted to recognise the voice of a
friend, and was now sure of speedy deliverance. " Yes, Mr. M.,"

■3WIKD ALIVE ,.V rm SNOW. ,,,

said she, " indeed it is • ,I„ i.„7 .

concluded that an immediate and ^'' "'" °"*-" M^- M. wisolv

■-/atal in its eiTects. a d w u^drk?''-- *« «- ooM 4 *

ne^hbour a little longer buriedlve HeTu /'"'" *° '''^^'' ^s
her wait patiently for his return. He went 1 ^'' *'''^' "»'' ''«do
"th tools, a cart with featherbed Idl** r'^' *" P^''^"^ "nen
cord,als for the poor fainting prilt m"''""* ^«'PP»g«. and
^<^_ sent in haste to Cambri£ 1 b'""*''"^ " «^^«nger
services were thought 'to Cit ^""^ " tlootor, who,^

f « sing.lar sepnllr . M oIIT"""' "' '''^ "P "' g "f
to see her in the cart SJ?'. ", ""•^''°»' ""ived i„ L:
-re sodden .ith wet, ^nd thl^f W f 'r ^^ «« "ot
some wamth, her feet and le^wet e^Tr ?' '""' ^^*»"-^d
put to bed, and, being carefully tided f^^^ "'''''• ®'"' ^^^-o
her recoveiy. '^ ^^'"^'ed, hope was entertained of

Having mentioned the finding of Mr, w j
descnbe, as afterwards lean^ed fL hSlTh "f ' "^ '"''y "-
he the tenant of the strange loda-ino^ T Tf ^'' '"''' '^^ e^me to
the Saturday when she k t Cambrii! 'f ""P''^'' ^^ '-?• O"
^oi^h ly set in, encumbering witt S ' *•".! ^""^^-'torm had tho-
veUer-s garment, producing idilrf f'T '"''^ "' '^^ *-
«nd benumbing the extremifieflttfn '^' ""^'"'"^ *he li,nbs
Pers. Mrs. W. felt the cold eJeedSv l^fu''"'^ ^'' «"'P'e wrap-
;- startled (it was said bTromelL,?'''''- ''^-•-« the hoi,
because she thought to o-ain ! , '"" "'"'''«° I'ght) or

;'ounKintending^olLX:ral h m \^*"^' *«''"-
from her. She sought to reo-ain^^t -^rf' '"''"'''''' b^'^e away

from the road acrfss an "^r field t' '"* '^ *"^»«^ ''^™PtS^
"orth^ast wind, and the hindrance of u^f" °^ ''"' *^'«'<'^»"«
Pe-S'sted in pu„ni„ him and b" ^''''''* "" ''^'- «™, she

Wdle, retmced her ster'in tt 7"!- """"'"'"^ ''^^ '«>« of the
-W attempt to leadlrt^tl^rhl: "i^l" -" -^

"■ "orn and weary with

122

REMAEKA13LE ADVENTURES.

exertion, the left foot almost frozen in consequence of having lost
her shoe, she felt that she must vest a little. Not pliilosophie
enough to know or to fear the consequences, she put rlown her
basket from her arm, sat clown (only for a minute) beneath the
bank, a little aside from the road, and, letting go the biidle despair-
ingly, spoke to the horse. " Tinker," said she, " I am too tired to
go any further ; you must go home without me." She then ex-
claimed, " Lord, have mercy upon me ! What will become of
me ?" In this condition, from the effects of the cold (to say notliing
of the drops and treats), she was, no douljt, overpowered with sleep,
tliough she fancied she slept but little. Tinker, finding the rein
loosed fj-om the hand of his mistress, like a wise beast made the
best of his way home, and gave the first assurance that his rider
had been lost.

Had the snow ceased, it is nearly certain that ]\Irs. Woodcoclc
would have slept her last sleep that night ; it continued, however,
to fall in steady profusion " like wool," so that what had occasioned
her danger became her best defence. The sleeping woman was
speedily and completely covered with a smooth and stainless coun-
terpane, the bank beJiind her causing a drift over the place where
she lay, or sat, some six feet perpendicular in depth from the sod.
and between three and four feet above her head. What wonder
that her husband did not find her as he passed ?

On awaking from sleep, though her featliery packing yielded to
the motion of her arms, she found herself unable to rise. Her
clotlies and one leg, Avhich had probably been stretched out wlieii
sleeping, were frozen fast to the ground, whilst her breath had
formed an opening through the snow. She knew it was Sunda}'
morning, because she heard the Chesterton church bells merrily
ringing for service. She could plainly hear the voices of pas.sen-
gers along the road, and, among others, distinctly recognised tlio
voice of her husband. She failed, however, in every effort to ivialco

BUKIEP ALIVE IN THE TSNOW.

123

ng lost
osopliit'
wn Ik''
ath tli<>
despair-
tired to
hen ox-
come ol'
notliiivj;
ith sleep,
tlic rein
nude tli(5
his rider

^Voodcoek
however,
ccasionecl
oman was
ess coun-
lace where
the sod.
lat wonder

delded to
use. Her
out when
:eath had
is Sunday
Is merrily
)f passen-
Inised tlio
It to r.iako

lieiself lieard. As time wore on, she perceived the darkness of the
closing night, and tlie light of each returning day. She gradually
scooped away the snow, and fed herself with it ; thus at length
forming a sort of cave corresponding in size with the reach of her
arm.

With difficulty she took from her pocket an almanack, to dis-
cover the time of the new moon, deriving some hope and conso-
lation from the prospect of relief which she supposed the chang(^
would bring. She also ate a few lozenges she had with her, and
occasionally refreshed herself with a pinch of snuff from a box she
always carried.

Day after day and night after night she dwelt in her frost-built
hut, distinctly noting the alternations of light and darkness, hearing
the morning and evening bells of her own and neighbouring vil-
lages, listening to the bleating of sheep, the barking of dogs, and
the sound of carriages along the road, besides overhearing a con-
versation between two gipsies about a donkey they had lost. When
her left hand began to swell, she carefully removed two rings (she
liad been twice married), and put them along with some money
into a small box to take care of them. She frequently shouted ;
but the snow so stifled the sound that no one heard Ik.^', not even
the gipsies, who came nearest of any.

On the second Sunday after her disastrous journey, when the
Cliesterton ringers struck out their peal, she knew that the eighth
day of her imprisonment was come, and almost despaired of deli-
verance, when Mr. M. turned aside to look for the place of his
visionary game. Unable to reach with her hand the opening in
the snow^, she broke off a twig beside her, and thrusting it through
with the appended kerchief, thus gave signal of her miserable
plight.

About the time the congregations were breaking up, the tidings
reached Cambridge that j\lrs. Woodcock had been found alive in a

U .)

VhM

pit:'

li,..

124

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

snow-drift. The excitement on this news exceeded that which hud
been occasioned by the report of lier being lost, so that crowds
resorted to the spot where she had lain, to verify what they had
heard.

For a time the case of this remarkable patient was not consi-
dered desperate ; but, unfortunately, she became " the lion " of the
neighbourhood. Troops of visitors thronged the house, to see the
woman who had passed so many days under the snow. The excite-
ment occasioned by too much company was itself unfavourable,
rendering the sufferer liable to fever. Each visitor leaving some
gratuity, encouragement was given to " drinking healths " and cups
of congratulation, probably tempting the patient herself to indul-
gence ill suited to her condition. Be this as it may, the feet
inflamed fi'om the violent effect of cold and frost-bite, and mortifi-
cation afterwards supervening, she lost all the toes, and the inte-
guments from the sole of one foot. In this mutilated state, though
her life was saved, she was quite unfit to attend to domestic duties ;
and her constitution had been so much injured, that in five months
from the time of her living burial she was consigned to a longer
sleep and a more permanent grave than beneath the snow. She
died on the 13th of July, 1799.

This story was regarded by many as a newspaper fiction. Only
a short time after its publication, Mr. Sole, of Caldecot, being in
an inn at Bath, heard a company of travellers express more than
grave doubts about the newspaper reports ; but when he assured
them that he lived in the neighbourhood, knew all the persons,
and was acquainted with all the facts, his statement was met by
roars of derisive laughter. " You must not expect," said his fellow-
travellers, " that we are so simple as to swallow such an incredible
tale."

An odd scrap of a ballad made on the occasion has been pre-
served : —

AN ADVENTURE IN ARRAN. 125

" She was in prison us you see,
All in a cave of snow ;
And she could not relieved be.
Though she was frozen so.

Ah, well-a-day !

" For she was all froze in with frost.
Eight days and nights, poor soul ;
But when they gave her up for lost.
They found her down the hole.
Ah, well-a-day !

The reader may perhaps inquire whether so mar\^ellous a deli-
verance from speedy death was not followed by penitence and
prayer, and faith in the Lord Jesus Christ, as a preparation for
eternity. Her restoration must have been like " life from the
dead," and it would be pleasant indeed to know that, in the best
sense, this buried woman had been raised up to " walk in newness
of life," and through Jesus Christ to enjoy life eternal. Of this,
however, I can say nothing. Let those who read see that they do
at once what they think Mrs. Woodcock ought to have done : —
"Yield yourselves unto God, as those that are alive from the
dead."

AN ADVENTUKE IN AKRAN.

It was early on a lovely autumnal morning, in the year 18 — , that

Ronald M'B , a small sheep-farmer in the northern district of

the Island of Arran, in the Western Highlands, left his home,,
attended by two faithful collie dogs, for the purpose of gathering
some sheep, which were pasturing on a secluded hill at the distance
of several miles from the farmstead. Though early in the fall,
there was just sufficient sharpness in the atmosphere — the result of
the slight frost of the previous evening — to render the exercise of
walking pleasant and exhilarating. Ronald felt and appreciated
the influence of the time and scene ; for he was a man of much

* 1*11

126

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

!i|.

more than the average intelligence of his class, and a devout ad-
mirer of natm-e, with which, in many a solitary vigil, he often held
communion on the lonely hill-side, in the romantic glen, or by
the desolate mountain tarn, surrounded on all sides by the dreary,
monotonous dun hue of the moorland waste.

On the present occasion, the scene was eminently calculated to
arouse his sympathies with the beauty and grandeiu* of external
nature. His road lay towards the western side of the island ; and,
as he turned a shoulder of the hill which he had been for some
time climbing, he came full in view of the sound of Kilbrannan,
which separates Arran from Argyleshire, heaving and glittering in
the rays of the morning sun like an expanse of molten silver. To
the south-west he could distinguish the Mull of Cantire, blue and
indistinct through the haze ; while, still further to the south, the
Ci'aig of Ailsie reared its huge form amidst the waters, with its
rounded shoulders and precipitous sides admirably adapted to with-
stand the utmost fury of the billows of the Atlantic. Sailing craft
of all sizes spread their canvas to woo the gentle morning air ;
though seen from Ronald's elevated point of view, they seemed
like mere dots on the burnished surface ; while here and there in
the distance a long pennon of black smoke gave token that omni-
present steam had tl.ere its representatives, giving an additional
aspect of liveliness and animation to the scene. In his immediate
neighbourhood the prospect was one of wild and sterile grandeur.
On either hand hills rose into the air, clothed, about two-thirds of
their height, with a short, rich, velvety grass, producing unequalled
sheep pasturage — the remaining third being composed of lofty,
jagged peaks of granite, emerging from their verdant covering,
and frowning defiance and destruction to all bei^eath them. Nor
did the threat seem altogether a vain one; for all down their
sides, and along the glen through which Ronald now took his
way, huge masses lay singly imbedded in the soil or heaped to-

^^ ADVENTUBE ,N AKliAN.

S^^^^ev, as at diftoronf . • i ^^'^

Formed tin J, ■'• ■"'''" »"<1 '■'nt.

^« '"-■ Stepped st,„. 1 '""•"'■ '"""°'"""-"

^■"■'T inspinuioi,, and fee J, t "'?'"■"" '''"•' "^'"'li-ff i . akl, v , '
■■'t every s(,.n «• • ""-""S ^"8 e lest ev,„„,7 . , ,". ''"" Wth

'tiii'tled by the <!i,rT,i„ ,. "&'"' "ml over nn,I ... ■ ^
'"•» hoathl foverf " ,"•''■ "' *''« Wuckooek all " '"^ ^™«
*l„ ;! 1 "' neighbouring hill Wi i ? '''^"PPeared over the

i"'wler lees of th ! , ^ '""" ^^"ded it down hill , " "'" '*
UDon If ^ ^* '■«*'"^'t told decidedly T ' '"'"'^'^ f'e long

-«"?t t ha "ber'^ffP^'' beneath onio h!",' " ^^'^ "-•'•
Wil side „ ^ J ""^ ''^^'^'-'bed as lyin. 11, ''"^'^ '""^^^ of

poi"t2\rhe':rdr ^^-^ ^-^^ «s^re°r''^

S^J^-ad beeoreotidS^t •t::,'^— '• ^'^^ ^^^

"» t^iir;;'; ^'^'^ T'- i "rind E^*-^ «"-^ •

('^'1

128

KEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

, ■ H :::■;■ ;.;':i -w:

Going up to the rock, lie found it to consist of an immense mass
of granite, seemingly some tons in weight, and apparently resting
on several smaller fragments of the same formation. Convinced
that the rabbit lay concealed between some of these fragments,
and that he might yet recover it, he stretched himself, face down-
wards on the ground, close to the foot of the rock, and, thrusting
in his arm beneath it as far as he could reach, proceeded to rum-
mage for the object of his search. While so engaged, what was
his horror and amazement to feel the huge rock suddenly slip
down several inches, and, with irresistible and remorseless pressure,
fix his arm, just above the elbow, between its own base and one of
the underlying fragments ? The enormous mass had been so nicely
poised, that the smallest disturbance was sufficient to destroy its
equilibrium — a circumstance, as is well known to geologists, of not
infrequent occurrence ; and hence the frightful result. Eonald's
first instinctive impulse was to endeavour to withdraw his arm — for
the pressure, though severe, was not sufficient to crush the limb ;
but a moment's consideration convinced him of the utter hopeless-
ness of the attempt: he was as immovably fixed as if he had
formed a portion of the rock itself.

And now how bitter were his reflections, how dreadful the re-
vulsion from his previous state of cheerful buoyancy ! The contrast
was too cruel, and, manly as he was in character, the big tears
rolled from his eyes as he thought of the terrible doom which
might be in store for him. And, in truth, his situation was suffi-
ciently awful to justify the most desponding presages as to his fate.
He was at a distance of several miles from the nearest habitation,
and the spot was so lonely and sequestered, that he might die of
starvation ere any chance wayfarer was likely to take that direc-
tion, and so discover his position. His mind filled and confused
by these fearful anticipations, he found himself unable to collect
his faculties sufficiently to reflect with calmness on the misfortune

nse mass

At* ADVENn-,,E ,.V AK.UN.

^^^i'<'li Jiad befallen h' -^-'^

the continn,. I „ . ' ^ *""« Pi^sed on tim „ """» "nore and
••elieved l.im T !''''"'« "'' stupor or ^vT '^^ '"^ ^"y^te™.

fl'«hed acZT *^''"'^^ '^''^ release Tl!"fi f ^''^^'ved at

knife r!7 '?. ""'"-l ^^«s to amputl J ^''^ "'""^''t tLat
"e. a 'Dding himself Med ,,„ P"'"'"^ ti's arm with Lis c)w„
"le Doetpt ;„ i • , '""ea, Jiowever in i,;„ i ciasj)-

"• ius inmd, tierefore, he

»ii

' i If ft

ft'

If*?!

i;u)

UKMAUKAIU-i; AhVlONTUUKS.

l>('lli()ni>li1 iiini of liiM Itiitlilul (M»IIi(<s mh ilio only IVnHJMf^ hkmihh dl
('iTli^cliiilL', Ins (Irlivcnincc. TIk^sc |)(m»i" nninnilH Innl numifoHtrdllio
ntniusl (lis! loss and soliciludc when llioy jHTccivrd lln»ir nwislrr'H
niisrort\n\(\ Tlicy v;m wlnninii: imd sninin^ roinid llif rock mh if
s(H'kin|>; lor sonio nn^tniM of ndiovinj^' liiin, rcfnrninfi: ovory now nnd
lli(M» lo Onvn n]>on Itinv und lick his 1'mcc, in fokcMi oClhcMr jiflcclion
nnd Hvnij^ntliy. Callinuf lln'ni to Inin now, In* <'nd('iivonr(Ml lo
mjiko thoni conn)ichcnd 1 hat lie wished Ihcm to sot ofV for home,
ho|>in!>' that Ihoir arrival 1h(>n' would servo ns a means of alarming*
his family as lo tlu* cvu^o of his continued ahsence. For a loufj^
time his elVorts wow. unsuec<Nsfnl. TluMr very alTfeetion for hij»)
proved the p'catxNt obstacle in his endeavours to rend<M' their
services (^iVectual. 1Mioui>h wIumi scolded away they retr(>at(>d for
a short distanc(% thoy n^turned timeaft<M' time. crouchinfj;fawnin^ly
at his sid(\ as if humbly d(^pr(H'atini»; his disi>hnisuro. Almost de-
spairing, at length it occurred to him that his youngest boy was th(^
constant ]ilaymate, and (^onsequcMitly sj)ecial favourite of the oldest
collie, Jiaddie, which had been rc^arcd on the farm from a puppy.
Addressing him, tluM'i^fore, in sheplK^d phrase, ho exclaimed :
*' Hie away Mide, good Laddio, hie away wide ; se(dv AUistor, good
dog, seek Allistor;" and his heart throbbed with renewed hope
when ho saw the sagacious animal's eye light up with a look
of pleased intelligence, and at the same moment, pricking up his
oars, w itli a joyful bark and a bound he set off at the top of his
speed. Left thus alone, Konald hopefully reflected that " man's
extremity is God's o})port unity."

Arrived at the farm-stead, honest Laddie found his master's
small household busily engaged conveying home and stacking llic
last portion of the season's peats — the Highlander's staple fuel —
which, having been cut about the month of June, are allowed io
dry and harden on the surface of the peat -moss until a later period
of the year brings sufEcicnt leisure to have them carted home and

*'y «f™y k „,.„,.!„ told T , ""'"'''•

'iiiic'f on I'l, K- , ' "'^'' ''xliiniHtpt sfiii I • 1^™

.„„.„•!" , "' '*™ff« 'I'-mnoo. A,n cl f "'' '" ^'■■'•n-.son.o

r- - X <- :'s:;r ■« «- "r„;:;;t,:

">« wck, and the droad 'f w, '-"'""^ *° "'« F'"'lero„.s s,W

i;:l|

t?'i||f

ll'i

11^

132

KEMARKABLE ADVENTURES,

his owu directions, this objot^t was li}i[)pily a('<'oini>li.she(l ; ami,
pl{icinf( the patient upon a litter, he was caretiilly convoyed honii^
and put to bed, wliere he lay many days under medical attendance
before he was sufficiently recovered to resume the active duties
of life.

AN AWKWARD ADVENTURE.

One evening in the autumn of 185 — , during a temporary stay at
a muddy little fishing station near the junction of the river Avon
with the Bristol Channel, an adventure befel me, which might
have been attended with very untoward results, and whicli I shall
relate as briefly as may be. I had taken my residence ibr a week
or two in the neighbourhood, for the express purpose of holding
oommunieation and exchanging occasional visits with an old friend
and schoolfellow, the captain of an Indian trader then lying at
anchor in the roads. We generally spent our evenings together,
either on board his vessel or at my lodgings, but always separated
about an hour before midnight. The old boatman, who two or
three times a week rowed me oft' to the vessel and brought me
back again, happened to be out of the way one evening at the
accustomed hour ; and while I was waiting, almost ankle-deep in
the brown sludge which the receding tide leaves upon the coast,
expecting his appearance, a decent locking middle-aged man pulled
towards me in the merest cockle-shell of a craft, and, touching liis
hat of glazed tarpaulin, volunteered to supply his place. Without
hesitating a moment 1 stepped into the boat, and, seating myself
in the stern, pointed to the " Bhurtpoor," lying about a mile and a
half in the offing, and told him to pull away.

The season was approaching the equinox, and, the wind blowing
fresh, my appetite for dinner sharpened as we got clear of the mud-

AX AWKWAHI) ADVENITRR.

bnnk.s, whid, as tlio ff 1 ^^^

'!rr'T''^'''''^'"''^>^^'^r:^vX ""'" !"■"»'• "•»* •"-

f'o level of the ,nom.t«iu to > i ,' I '"" '""' «""k ■"•■■rlv to

f, ""''^ before a dark olo,,,! n.»iTf\ ""' ""'Proceeded

'he wind blew, rapidly e„rt„i" I, 'It'' ''"^l' ^«'" ^^hieh q,„.rter
"" """•■' '"-o -xWenly than „ t / "a'^l'!' ?'' *""'V"''' -"'e
]'--een..or of „„ a„.,y i„„_ andl 'conn "."''' ^''"'"^ '^"^ «'«
»™d glooming over tie waters n f ''""''■" "'« «'lv,moin-

■•'•'->' the notion of being elZun it ""• f' '"^"""'<'- ^ ''''• "" t
- "S"al, a heavy shower Jrll^^rf. '! T "'* •■"'-"•>•".-
'"'.' I urge,I the boatman to pu a«fv "L 'n '""' "" ''^'"-"^^
*«I he, tngging at the oars " Zlt^ T "" "'"• " ^.v, ay. sir "
l^ard without a wet jaetet » "" '°'" l'""'"^ ^^ honiur a-

-f'or about two miuuton ih^ lu^i i
-.creased exertions, daneed for^a 1 It 't' ""'^"' ,*''« ""l-'ns of
I could see the hands on boardZe t*, ^^ ' ™'^- ^^'''^"•'y

00* sails, which, as the ves'ent ^ T" ''"^^ '■"rf'"K «o,no
^t down for the purposej pl^'j?^''^' '^T' P''>'""'^- ''-»
'ke evolutions of the crew, Zll^ '™**'"S ""^ ««""""'-
d-sappearanee of every «.' of ll ,"^ "* ^''^ 'nstantaneons
-varethat «y companL had stonlrd "" ' '^"'^^^ «"''<J- r
""der the influence of the reced S A '"^' ""^ *'='" *he boaf!
right track. "P„,i „ „ 'f 2"JJ«'^^' -- drifting out of the

'« «at while the big drop, frL he 1 ri"^-.""^ '^'' *" '^'^"••'
I'ead, began splashing down iTkeL .??•"*' "°^ right over-
"nan. however, neithef molTd nor sl\ t""*'*^ "P"" "«• '■">«
^'a^prng the oai. to his brel 1 S' 'f' ^'"^ '^'"^ arms,
e^^ were darting from theirt'ckets '/"; "^'^ " '''''''■ »
« °ngh M an agony of terror b f '""^ "" "» ^^es as

spluttered forth foam at the co^e, ■"?'*' ^^'^ ^"^^ ^st. ye

- of a livid black CO Jr.r ^reVet StT^ ^^*^'

veins 01 h,, forehead stood out

t> 'f '

f^ • li

I ffTT

134

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

i! .

like an iron net-Avorlv ; while tUo perspiration streamed off his head
in a perfect toiTent.

AVhat to do I did not know. I concluded that the man was in
a lit of some kind or other ; and I feared momentarily lest, in some
sadden paroxysm, he should flounder overboard, and perhaps upset
the boat, causing the destruction of us both. I would have given
much to have had a friend with whom to advise, but advice was
out of the question. While I sat deliberating, the squall burst
upon us with unmitigated fury. The floods came down a perfect
Avaterspout, and the winds tossed us about among the chopping
billows to such an ugly tune, that in a few minutes the boat was
nearly half full of water, and I was fain to take to baling out with
jdl my might, making use of an old saucepan, rusty and shorn of
its handle, which lay amongst the loose planks in her bottom.
8till there sat the wretched waterman, rigid as a corpse, and appa-
rently insensible to the assaults of the tempest. By this time it
was so dark that I could see neither the " Bhurtpoor " nor the
coast, and, what is more, did not know in which direction to look
for tliem. I could only see my companion's face by leaning
forward and Ininging my own almost in juxtaposition with it ; and
whenever I did this, the same horrified aspect met my view, and he
invariably resented my curiosity by the utterance of a frightful
guttural sound, expressive, if of anything, of terror lest I should
lay a hand upon him.

The squall Ibrtunately soon mitigated in intensity, and seemed
to settle down into a heavy rain. When I had baled out the water
sufficiently to remove present uneasiness on that score — and it
seemed to me that I had occupied liours in accomplishing it — I
unshipped the rudder, and, by dint of no inconsiderable labom-,
padtllcd with it so effectually as to keep the boat's head to tlie
Avind. ^riiat was all I could do, and I could not do that veiy well,
as an occasional sea that broke over the gunwide convinced mo a

AN AWKWARD ADVENTURE.

135

dozen times at least. After tossing about in tliis miserable condi-
tion a considerable time, wliicli seemed to me an age, I looked at
my watch to see how long we had been out, and was amazed to
find that not two liours had elapsed since we liad started. I should
hardly have been more surprised had the sun risen on the other
side of the channel and ushered in the morning. My troubles
seemed to have endured longer than the whole of the past day,
and yet there were eight or nine hours to pass before another would
dawn upon us. I began to fear that we should not survive the
night ; we were probably several miles from the nearest land, but
in what direction it lay I had no idea. All that I knew was, that
we were drifting down channel, and that down we must continue to
drift till the tide turned, which I judged would not be for several
hours, I bawled to my companion as loud as I could halloo —
bantered him, consoled him, encouraged him, reasoned with him :
all, however, was to no purpose; not a response could I elicit.
There was, therefore, nothing for it but to sit still and wait the
issue. I was wet through to the skin — as thoroughly sodden as
it' I had been fished up from the bottom of the sea ; and every
now and then a terrible presentiment haunted me that to the
bottom we were doomed to go before the morning,

How long I. sat in this state, alternately baling v/ith the rusty
saucepan, paddling with the rudder, and gazing moodily at tlie
grim figm'e of the boatman, now half shrouded in the darkness, i
have no distinct recollection, but it must have been a very con-
siderable time. My reflections were none of the pleasantest. J'lie
vision of the captain's comfortable cabin, and his wrll-spread table
furnished with the game we had shot togetlier the day before, rose
to my imagination with tantalizing force ; and there was I, trans-
formed from a delighted and favoured giuost to a miserable cast-
away, at the mercy of a motionless image, mIio, iov all I knew,
miidit woke up into a niging madman, or die and stiften in tlie

130

REMAEKABLE ADVENTURES.

position in which he sat, leaving me in the unpleasant predicament
of having to account for his fate .should I happen to survive him
long. Morbid thoughts began to rise in my mind and to mingle
with unworthy terrors, both of which I had a difficulty to shake
off. At length I began to revolve the matter determinately, with
a view to action of some sort. I could bear the horrible perplexity
of my position no longer, and determined to do something, if
possible, to bring it to an end. But what ? — that was the question.
I stood up and looked around. I fancied I could see a glimmering
of light far away to the left, and thought that if I could get posses-
sion of the oars I might succeed in making the land in that direc-
tion, particularly as the wind had now abated and the storm had
ceased.

I cautiously laid my hand upon the man's shoulder, and felt for
his fingers : they were hot as those of a person in a IJ A\ . rrer. I
endeavoured to loosen the oars from his grasp, but I nugiit as well
have tried to snap them in pieces with my fingers : they were firm
as though gripped in an i:'on vice. I felt his face and hair ; both
were hot and bathed in clammy moisture. In spite of the poor
fellow's aflliction, I grew exasperated with him for venturing out to
sea, with the knowledge which he must have had that he was liable
to such fearful visitations. Half in anger and half inspired with a
sudden idea, I groped in the bottom of the boat for the old sauce-
pan, found it, filled it with the cold brine, and dashed it suddenly
in the fellow's face. The shock was instantly followed by a '- c^
sigh and a rather violent gasping. Distressing as these sci.: i-.
usually are, they were now grateful music to my ears, and, withoui
waiting more than a minute, I repeated the experiment. Directly
afterwards I heard the oars rattle in the rullocks, and saw, as
plainly as the gloom would permit, that the man was addressing
hii^self again to his work, though in all likelihood he had hardly
yet recovered his full consciousness. I spoke to him, but rc> dved

AN AWKWARD ADVENTURE.

137

him

lake
with
(xity

g, if
rtion.

ering

3sses-

iirec-

1 had

no answer. I again filled the rusty saucepan and sprinkled water
r * er his face with my fingers. At length he threw off his hat with
one hand, shook himself, and with difficulty stammered forth, " It's
all right now."

"All right, do you call it? Whereabouts are we? and what
o'clock do you suppose it is? and whereaway lies the *Bhurt-
poor?'"

" Very sorry, ^^our honour — how long is it we've been out ?"

" Four or five hours — perhaps six : a pretty scrape you have lot
me into !"

" Very sorry, your honour ; but we'll get picked up before long.
Here's a smack a-coming — she'll be down upon us in tw^enty
minutes, and we'll be snug enough on board of her."

I could see nothing of the smack whose approach he announced ;
but as he assured me again and again that she was fast bearing
down upon us, I was but too glad to believe it true. Sure enougli,
in ten minutes later I could discern her broad white canvas loom-
ing forward like an apparition ; and soon my companion hailed her
hoarsely, and received a reply perfectly unintelligible to me,
through the captain's speaking trumpet. She did not, however,
heave to, but came dashing past at five or six knots an hour, and
seemed about to abandon us to our fate, with a coarse jest flung at
us in passing. I had begun exclaiming against this abominable
inhumanity, as I supposed it, but the poor boatman interrupted me
with, " It's all right, your honour ; we'll board her in two minutes."
With these words he lifted something white into the boat, bawling
out, " Heave-ho !" at the same moment, with the full force of hu
Jungs. The something white was a floating buoy attached to a
long line which the smack had dropped for our convenience, and
which, on hearing the signal, they, now began to haul in with
astonishing rapidity. For two minutes we cut through the water
like a rocket, and the next ascended the hull of the smack, and

F 2

'iv,\

r*-5 m

138

REM ARK ABT,E ADVENT HRE?5.

dived down into her cabin, where a few rashers of Welsh bacon
and a cup of steaming coffee restored our exhausted strength and
spirits. It was past ono o'clock when we boarded the smack,
and nearly three when she arrived at an adjoining seaport, the
place of her destination. I was fortunate enough, through the
recommendation of the captain, to find accommodation for the
night in a house near the quay, where I retired immediately to
bed, and happily escaped any serious injury from the dangerous
enterprise I had so unwillingly achieved.

Next morning I encountered the unlucky boatman, still pale and
haggard, upon the quay, and sought to obtain some explanation of
the wretch i experience of the previous night. He was, however,
most unwilli) speak on the subject, and, but for the conscious-

ness that he ov, ^d me some reparation for a wrong unintentionally
done me, it was plain that he would not have uttered a word. As
it was, my curiosity was but half gratified. He acknowledged that
he was subject to occasional fits ; but he had his living to get. He
denied that he had had a fit last night, asserting that if he had, he
should have gone overboard immediately, as it would have required
three or four men to hold him still. He said he saw me and all I
did during the whole period, and heard, moreover, every word I
spoke, which he could not have done had he been in a fit. From
all I could understand of his description of the agonies he had
himself undergone, he had felt the symptoms of an approaching
attack, and Knowing that, if it mastered him in the boat, it must
inevitably result in his destruction, had wrought himself up to a
determined resistance, and in the danger and darkness of that
sudden tempest had manfully battled it out with the dreadful
malady, that might else have merged us both in one common
doom. The more I questioned him and revolved his answers in
mv mind, the more I became convinced that this was the truth.
Doctors may, for aught I know, pronounce such an effort to be

•on

ick,

the

y to

srous

A TWILIGHT ADVENTURE.

130

altogether vain ; but I describe the facts of the case pretty much
as they happened, and must leave those who differ with me in
opinion to deal witli the matter as ihey list.

I had been angry enough witli the poor fellow the night before,
but the interview of the morning banished my resentment ; and as
he rose from the heap of iron ore upon which he had been sitting
when I came up with him, and staggered feebly towards the vessel
in which he had been offered a gratuitous passage home, I could
not but feel that there were qualities in him worthy of respect. He
would accept nothing for his services, but returned the offer with a
dolorous glance of the eye, and a significant curl of the upper lip
— and so we parted. Health and peace go with him i

ivr

«| 'M. I

A TWILIGHT ADVENTUEE.

AN APPARITION EXTRAORDINARY.

About the centre of a great dreary common, distant some three

miles from the little towm of C , and just at the meeting place

of two footpaths, which may be traced far over the sombre waste
by their weary whiteness, stand three lightning-scathed elms, bat-
tered and seared by fire and storm, barkless, livid, and ghost-like
in the dim twilight. And oh ! the oppressive soHtudo and silonet^
of that spot at such an hour.

It was just when the twilight of a September evening lay deepest
on the border land of day and night, that my homeward path led
me past the blasted elms. The friends I had just left were such as
Percy, or Ritson, or Scott would have loved to commune with —
full of old ballad lore. Quaint old words, breathed in the soft
sweet voice of tlio mistress of the house to a quaint okl melody,

■jiji^pir

140

llESrABKABLE ADVENTTTER.

still rang in my ears. And this was the burden that haunted
me: —

•• As I was walking a' nlane,
I heard Iwa corbies makin' a mane ;*
The ane unto the t'other did say.
Where sail we gang and dine the day?"

The words of the ballad were well enough remembered, and I was

trying to recall the air ; but the fourth line baffled me. I could

not get it to run rightly at all, and in vain did I repeat over and

over —

•* Where sail we gang and dine the day ?**

in different keys, now higher and now lower.

Wholly intent upon this vexatious interruption to my musical
reveries, I drew near to the goblin trees, and, for aught I know,
might have passed them unnoticed, had not my little dog Trot,
who was trotting quietly on, nose to ground, as was his wont, a
yard or two in advance, suddenly stopped short in my way, so that
I almost stumbled over him ; and he then slunk cowering at my
heels. At the same moment there reached my ears a faint rustle as
of footsteps through the heather, or perhaps merely the rush of a
startled rabbit into the gorse. But be this as it may, ye lovers of
the marvellous, what a spectacle met my eyes, as then, for the first
time, I lifted them to the blasted elms !

From a huge broken limb of the central tree depended an object
that bore the semblance of a living creature, yet altogether unlike
any that I had ever seen or read of. It loomed out from the dark
background of cloudy sky, likest to one of those vast vampires
which travellers have described as sometimes seen in the depths of
the South American forest. Like them, it hung by the hind feet
to the branch, swaying slowly to and fro. But tlien it was white —
a livid white, like that of the barkless tree — wliite head, and body,

* I lieard two crows making a moan.

A TWILIGHT ADVENTURE.

lil

and logs, and wide-extended wings. The A\ind, too, wafted from it
a ghoulish odour, indescribable, that told a talc of fresh-spilt blood.

Confess, now, candid reader, long you not, as I did, to know
something more of the monster ; to be rid of such a nightmare of
doubt ; to be able to call it by some known name ; to find out
whether to laugh or weep, to clap hands or to tremble ? How,
then, shall I dare to tell you the whole truth, and to call upon you
to let your curiosity be as easily satisfied as mine was ? How per-
suade you to think with me, discretion the better part of valour,
and to wait with patience equal to mine the possible denoument of
time ? The fact is that, after a very brief deliberation, I deter-
mined to give the tree and its " uncanny " burden a wide bertli,
and so arrived at home unhai-med, though somewhat startled and
confounded by what I had witnessed.

This is, I am willing to admit, a very unromantic, and therefore
improper, conclusion to my story. Had I described my horror at
the sight — how my very hair rose on end till it lifted my bi^^ad-
brimmed straw from my head, and how I fled, fear-ridden, awe-
spurred, and terror-winged over the wild waste, pursued by un-
earthly howls, and the flap, flap, flap of strange wings, mitil I fell
half-dead, and so on — this would, of course, be far more interesting,
and a more proper and normal termination to my adventure. Of
all this I am well aware; but then you see, discerning reader.
Truth contradicts oftentimes, and flatly, the notion that ho is
" stranger than fiction," and in this case brought a very romantic

story to a very unromantic end.

* ♦ * #

About a week had passed since the evening of my mysterious
adventure, when, on taking up the county paper, a cer i para-
graph caught my eye, and, ere I had glanced far down it, the
mystery of my twilight apparition was solved.

"A Daring Sheepstealeh. — On Tuesday last, a sheep was

llLi

IIEMAKKABLE ADVENTUllES.

hitolou from a field about two miles from this town (C itself),

ill the occupation of Blr. J. D. That gentleman's shepherd counted
llie sheep, as usual, soon after half-past seven o'clock on that
evening, when ho discovered that one was missing. Supposing it
had got astray on the common, he did not mention it to his master
that night. Next morning, by five o'clock, he was out on the
common looking for it. When he reached the well-known * blasted
elms,' near the centre, he discovered evident signs, both on the
trees and on the ground below, that a sheep had been hilled, or at
least cleaned there. He followed the traces of blood as far as the

large chalk hole near H Wood, where the skin was found

concealed under the bushes, and there all trace was lost. It is
clear that the villain or villains, who have so far eluded pursuit,
were old and daring hands at the business, as the theft must have
been committed before dark, and the sheep cut up close to the

footpath that leads from P to C . This path, however, is

but little frequented, especially after dark, owing to its bad repute
among the country folk."

ADVENTURE AMONG THE HUDSON'S BAY

FUK-HUNTEKS.

Our brigade of four boats lay moored on the banks of the great
Saskatchewan ; which river, taking its rise amid the mugged steeps
of the Rocky Mountains, flows through the great prairies and
woodlands of the interior of Rupert's Land, and discharges into
Lake Winipeg.

The men were ashore at breakfast. On a low gravelly point
that jutted out into the stream, smoked three large fires, over
which stood three rudely constructed tripods, from wliich depended

>lf),

ted
Lhat
g it
ister

the
isted
L the
or at
3 the
found

It is
irsuit,

have
to the
sver, is
repute

|e great
steeps

les and
js into

point
(s, over
[pendcd

ADVENTURE AMONG THE HUDSON'S BAY FLR-IIUNTERS. \\'\

three enormous tin kettles. Robbiboo was tliedeloctabh^ snbstanci^
contained in these kettles. Pemmican is a compound of di-ii d
buffalo meat, melted fat, and hair — the latter being an accidental
ingredient. J\Iix pemmican with flour and water, boil and stir till
it thickens, and the result will be " robbiboo."

Around these kettles stood, and sat, and reclined, and smoked,
about thirty of the Avildest and heartiest fellows that ever trod the
wilderness. Most of them were French Canadians ; many were
half-breeds; some were Orkneymen; and one or two were the
copper-coloured natives of the soil. But Canadians, Scotch, and
savages alike, were servants of the Hudson's Bay Fur Company ;
they were all burned to the same degree of brownness by the
summer sun ; they all laughed and talked, and ate robljiboo more
or less — generally more ; and they were all clad in the picturesque
habiliments of the north-west voyageur. A loose-fitting capote,
with a hood hanging down the back ; a broad scarlet or parti-
coloured worsted sash round the waist ; a pair of cloth leggings,
sometimes blue, sometimes scarlet, occasionally ornamented with
bright silk or bead- work, and gartered at the knees; a pair of
chamois leather-like mocassins made of deer skin ; a round bonnet,
or a red nightcap, or a nondescript hat, or nothing; such is the
outward man of the voyageur.

" Ho ! ho !" shouted the gruff voice of the guide, as the men,
having emptied the kettles, were hastily filling and lighting their
pipes — " embark, my lads, embark."

In five minutes the boats were afloat, and the crews v/ere about
to shove off, when the cry was raised, " Mr. Berry ! hold on :
where's Mr. Berry ?"

Poor Berry ! he was always late, always missing, always in the
wrong place at the right time and in the right place at the wrong
time. His companions — of whom there were two in charge of the
boats along with himself — called him an " old wife," but qualified

h'^ \

144

KEMARRABLR ADVENTURES.

' (

tho title with the remark that he was a " good soul," nevertheless.
Aud so he was — a beardless youth of twenty-two summers, with a
strong tendency to scientific pursuits, but wofully incompetent to
use his muscles aright. He was for ever falling into the water,
constantly cutting his fingers with his knife, and frequently break-
ing the trigger of his fowling piece in his attemi)ts to discharge it
at half-cock. Yet he was incomparably superior to his more
" knowing " comrades in all the higher qualities of manhood. At
the moment his name was called, he sprang from the bushes, laden
with botanical specimens, and crying " Stop ! stop ! I'm coming,"
he rushed down to the boat of which he had the special charge,
and leaped in. Five minutes more, and the brigade was sweeping
down the Saskatchewan, while the men bent hastily to their oars,
and filled the shrubbery on the river's bank and the wide prairies
beyond with the ringing tones of one of their characteristic and
beautiful canoe songs.

The sun was flooding the horizon with gold, as it sank to rest.
The chorus of the boatmen had ceased, and the only sound that
broke the stillness of the quiet evening was the slow and regular
stroke of the heavy oars, which the men plied unceasingly. On
turning one of the bends of the river, which disclosed a somewhat
extended vista ahead, several black objects were observed near the
water's edge.

" Hist !" exclaimed the foremost guide, " they are buffaloes."

" A terre, a terre !" cried the men, in a hoarse whisper.

A powerful sweep of the steering oar sent the boat into a little
bay, where it was quickly joined by the others.

" Now, then, let the crack shots be off" into the bush," cried the
gentleman in charge of the brigade. " Away with you, Gaspard,
Antoine, Jacques. Mind you don't waste powder and shot on old
bulls. Hallo ! Mr. Berry, not so fast ; let the hunters to the
front."

ADVENTURE AMONG THE HUDSON'S BAY FUU HUNTEUS. 145

0.'

" Ah ! Misser Berry him l)erry bad shot," ronuirk<Ml ii middl
aged Indian, regarding the youth somewhat contemptuously. Iioriy
armed for the chase with frantic haste, dashing about and tumbling
over everything in search of his powder-horn and sliot-pouch,
wliich were always mislaid, and moving the muzzle of his gun
hither and thither in such a way as to place the lives of his men in
constant and deadly peril. Ke started at last, with the speed of a
hunted deer, and made a bold sweep into the woods in order to
head the buffaloes. Here ho squatted down behind a bush, to
await their coming.

A short time sufficed to bring the stealthy hunters within range.
Three shots were fired, and two animals fell to the ground ; while
a third staggered with difficulty after its companions, as they
bounded through the woods towards the prairies, headed by the
patriarchal bull of the herd. This majestic animal had a mag-
nificently shaggy luaue and a pair of wild glittering eyes, that
would have struck terror into the stoutest heart ; but Berry was
short-sighted ; moreover he had concealed himself behind a shrub,
through which, as he afterwards remarked, he " could see nicely."
No doubt of it ; but the bush was such a scraggy and ill-conditioned
shrub that the buffalo bull could see through it just as nicely, and
charged, with a hideous bellow, at the unfortunate youth as it came
up the hill. Berry prepared to receive him. For once he remem-
bered to cock his piece ; for once his aim was true, and he hit the
huge animal on the forehead at a distance of ten yards ; but he
might as well have fired against the side of a hous3 ; the thick
skull, covered with its dense matting of coarse hair, was thoroughly
ball-proof. The bull still came on. Just at this moment another
shot was fired, and the animal hurled forward in a complete
somersault ; the bush was crushed to atoms, and Berry was knocked
head-over-heels to the ground, where ho lay extended at full
length beside his slaughtered foe.

V- ^

f Y^'i

.'J ■

'! t

r I

* ■' >a

J :•■ -i-A

hii

]|<i

Ur.!\IAUKAni,K AhVKNri'UI'X

"Ah! i»Mnvn' cnliint," cried Antuiiic, rmmin^^ np mid liftiuMf
l^TPy's IhnkI iVoin iho fj^rouiid. " Ih you Iiurl ver' mocli ? J)al hull
])iin hrodv d<» rihs I'lVMid."

AnfoiiK^'s h'jirs \V(M'o promidloRs. In luill'mi lioiir tho yoiilh whh
MM M(dl MS <>v(M', Ihou'ih soniowhfd shiilccn hy tho iail. Tho choico
inoiscls of t1i(* (^Piid IhiIVmIoos wcro ('111 olVliytho in«Miwithan adroit
('(Verity that wns (piitc^ inaiTcdlnnH, nnd in a vory Hliort tiiiio th(»
honts \V(»ro a}::Min rM|>i<lly dc^sccndiiifi; IJio Rtream.

TIk^ l)ivouii(» i]\t\i iiif.\1it V(^Honnd(Ml with more vipforoiis mii'th than
usual, The canij) \\rc>* Ma/od with unwoidcd powtn* a!i<l brilliancy.
Tho cook's odici* — no sinocnro at any timo — Ikhniuio a post of
al)S()lu<(* slavcM'v : for there was a tdorions fciist held bonciath tho
spreadiui): tre(»s o\' iho I'orest, and tlio bill of tare was " bnffalo-
stoaks and marrowbones." Hut if tlie least was noisy, tho liours
that succo(m1<mI it wer<^ stooped in ]>roiound sil(Mic(\ Each man,
liavin*!^ smoked bfs l'ip<\ s(d«>ct(Ml for his couch tho softest spot of
P'onnd \\o coe.ld tind, and, wnippiiiii; himself in his blanket, laid
]n*m down to iwst. The de(»p broathiniz; of nntronblod imbor was
tln^ only sound that floated from tho land and min with the

ri]ipliiij2: oi' the rivor; and not a hand or foot wtis moved until, at
daybreak, tho loud halloo of th(^ nuido aroused the sleepers to their
daily toil.

A w(h:'I\ or two passed, and wo had loft tho lands of the buffalo
far behind us, and wore sailiuLT over iho broad bosom of Jiake
AVinip(^g. It was calm and polished na a shoot of glass when wc
(Mitered it, but it did not remain loii": thus. A breeze arose, th(>
sails wore hoisted, and away ^ve went out into the wide ocean of
fresh water. Ljdce Winipog is a veritable ocean. Its waves rival
tliose of the salt sea in naiznitude, and thoy break upon a shore
composed in many places of sand and })obbl(>s. If we sail straiglit
out upon it, tho shore behind us sinks in the horizon; but no
opposite shore rises to view, and the unbroken circle of sky and

AhVKNTI IM; AMONO TIIK IU'DNON'h UAY I'lJU III Niints. 1 17

'tinti;
bull

1 wim

<li()it

than
aiicy.

>st i)t'

li tli(^

iifiiiU)-

hourrt

man,

put of

<^,, laid
n* was
li tho
til, at
ii tlieir

DuiValo

J iixkv

bu \vo

fc, tho

ian ol'

rival

shore

aight

\nt no

and

wut(U* irt ph'Hoiilcd to our ;^'a/.<', as it appcarn on 1h«< fijicut^K'cjiii
ils(>ir.

'rii(i wind roM(^ ahnost to a palo uk wo carcorcd over tlic hilloWM,
iind llic iiwii had to kocp up inci'HHant baling. It waw jdiuost loo
iiMudi for ns ; but no oiu^ luunnuiod, for, had Iho wind hrcii alicud,
wo nii^ht luivo bt'on obli^»!d io ]mt awhoro and ronmin then' inac-
tivo I'ur numy dayH. Ah it was, wo niado a rapid run aci'osH tlu; hd\o
and (uitijred tho rivor, or rather th(^ Hystcni of iakoH and rivors,
whioh convoy its watora to tho ucMjan. Jludson's ii»iy was our
^oal. To this point wo wore convoying our furs for sliipinont to
En<ij]an<I.

Many days ])a8se(l, and w«; woro still jmshing onward towards
tho Hca-coast; bnt not so rapidly now. Tlx^ character of tho mivi-
gation had chanujc^d very considerably, and our progress was niucii
slower. Now wo woro swoc^ping over u small hike, anon dashing
down tho course of a turbulent stream, and at other times dragging
boats and cargoes over tli*) land.

One afternoon wo camo to a part of tho river which presented a
very terrible aj)poaranc(?. As far as the eye could reach, the entire
streain was a boiling turmoil of rocks and rapids, down which a
boat could havo gone with as nmcrli safcity as it could have leajwid
uvi'r the Falls of Niagara. Our advance was most effectual ly
slop])ed, as far as appearance went. Jhit nothing checks tlu; on-
ward i)rogreHs of a north-west voyageur except the want of food.
The boats ran successively into a small bay, the men loai)ed out, tho
bales of furs were tv.)ssed upon the banks of the river, and th(3 boats
luUiled up. Then eviuy man produced a long leathern strap, with
which ho fastened a bale weighing upwards of DO lbs. to his biick ;
above this he placed a bale of similar weight, and trotted off into
the woods as lightly as if he had only been laden with two pillows.
The second bale is placed above the first by a sleight-of-hand
movement which is difficult to acquire. Poor Berry well nigh

' iiti

•! ■*

i i'

(■

!' '•:;?tl

1
■ i 1

BEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

broke his back several time'=? in attempting this feat, and even-
tually gave it up in despair.

In an hour the packs were carried over the "portage," and
deposited beside the still water at the foot of the rapids. Then
the men returned for the boats. One was taken in hand at a
time. The united crews seized the heavy craft with their strong
hands, and shoved against it with their lusty shoulders ; a merry
song was struck up, and thus the boat was dragged through the
fores,t for nearly a mile. The others quickly followed, and before
evening all was carried over, and we were again rowing down
stream.

Not long after this we came to a rapid, in the midst of which
was a slight waterfall. The water was deep here, and the roclvs
not numerous, and it was the custom to run the boats down the
rapids and over the fall, in order to save the labour of a portage.
Three of the boats ran down in grand style, and reached the foot
in safety. Berry and I were in the last boat. The steersman
stood up in the stern with his hands resting on the long heavy
sweep, while his gaze was directed anxiously towards the boiling
flood into which we were just entering. The bowman, an im-
mensely powerful man, stood up in front, with a long strong pole
grasped in both hands, ready to fend off from the sunken rocks.
The men sat in their places, with their oars ready for action.

" Now, boys, lo'^k out," cried the guide, as we plunged into the
first billow of the rapids. The boat flew like an arrow straight
towards a rock, which was crested with white as the water burst
against its ragged front. To all appearance our doom was sealed.
The bowman regarded it with a complacent smile, and stood quite
Tnotionles3, merely casting a glance backward. The steersman
acknowledged the glance mth a nod ; one long strolve of the great
oar — the boat turned sharply aside, and swept past in safety. There
was no danger in such a big blustering ro'.'k as that I

ADVENTURE AMONG THE HUDSON'S BAY FUR HUNTERS. 140

*' Prenez garde !" cried the bowman, in a waming tone, pointing
to a spot where lay a sunken rock. The steersman's quick hand
turned the boat aside ; but the bowman had to lend his aid, and
the strong pole bent like a willow as he forced the boat's head away
from the hidden danger. And now the fall appeared. It was not
liigh, perhaps four feet, but there was a mighty gush of water
there, and it was a bold leap for a heavy boat.

*' Prenez garde, mes garpons — hurrali! — lads, give way! — well
done !" The boat plunged almost bows under, but she rose again
like a duck on the foaming water. The Avorst of it was past now ;
but there was still a ticklish bit below — a bend in the river, where
the sunken rocks were numerous, and the surface of the water so
white Aviih foam, that it was difficult to detect the channel. The
bowman's duty now became more arduous. With knitted brows
and compressed lips he stood, every nerve and muscle strung for
instant action. The steersman watched his movements with intense
earnestness, in order to second them promptly. Ever and anon the
stout pole was plunged Into the flood, first on one side, then on the
other ; the two guides acted as if they had been one man, and the
obedient craft sprang from surge to surge in safety. Suddenly the
bowman uttered a loud shout, as the pole jammed between two
rocks, and was wrenched from his grasp.

" Another ! another ! vite ! vite !"

One of the crew thrust a fresh pole into his hand. Plunging it
into the water, he exerted his giant strength with such violence as
nearly to upset the boat, but it was too late. The planks crashed
like an egg-shell as the boat dashed upon a rock, and the water
began to rusli in, while the stern was swept round, and the blade of
the steering oar was smashed to atoms. Almost before wo had
time to think we were swept down, stern foremost, and floated
safely into an eddy at the foot of the rapids. A few strokes of the
oars brought us to the land ; but, short although the interval was

:\-trv

REMARKABLE AI', ENTURES.

between our striking the rock and running ashore, it was sufficient
to half-fill the boat with water.

The danger was barely past, and the intense feeling of it was still
strong upon my mind, yet these lighthearted voijageur^ were jesting
and laughing loudly as they tossed the packs of furs out of the
water-logged boat ; so little did they realize the imminence of the
peril from which they had been delivered — the shortness of the
step that had separated them from the immediate presence of God.

The remainder of that day was spent in drying the furs that had
been wetted, and in repairing the damaged boat. Afterwards we
continued our voyage, which, without further accident, terminated
at length on the shores of Hudson's Bay.

■I
ii

i A'

ENCOUNTER WITH A WATER-SNAKE.

What happy people we children of the United Kingdom ought to
be, if we could only persuade ourselves of the fact, enjoying as we
do every blessing that religion, civilization, and climate can afford !
What though ovu* winters may be severe, our Novembers foggy and
cliilly, our summer sunshine often usurped by rainy days, and the
l)rice of bread, meat, and fuel sometimes rather exorbitant; not-
witlistanding all these di-awbacks, we ought, comparatively speaking,
to consider ourselves happy. It is all very fine and poetical to read
about cloudless eastern skies, shadowy palm-trees, murmuring rills,
and so forth. These undoubtedly seem very inviting and charming,
as viewed thi'ough the medium of gaily tinted pictures or books, the
production of ready pens and prolific imaginations ; but once sub-
stitute the reality for the imagery, and the fascination vanishes
with uncomfortable rapidity. Apart from the thermometer at 90"
in the shade, from monsoons with incessant three- weeks' torrents of

ENCOUNTER WITH A WATER-SNAKE.

151

rain ; from land-winds, hot and unhealthy as the breath of a fur-
nace ; setting aside heat, mosquitoes, p;reen bugs, sandflie.^, insects,
and vermin of all descriptions, including musk-rats, 1 andicoots, et
hoc genus omne — I say, apart from all these nuisances of life in the
East, from which wo Britons are happily free, there are others even
more startling and perilous, which are incidents of every-day occur-
I'cuce.

Fancy, for instance, being obliged to shake your boots every
time you put them on, under the expectation of a snake or a scor-
pion or a centipede tumbling oat ; or being compelled to look
under your pillow every night with a like dread. How would you
relish moving your portmanteau (supposed to contain cherished
papers, letters, portraits, and so forth), and finding, to your utter
fUsmay, the bottom and the whole contents tumble out, one mass
of dust, the destructive, speedy, yet quiet results of a colony of
white ants, within the space of twenty-four hours ? We once knew
a lady whose white satin shoes were utterly destroyed in one night.
What would you say, or rather shout, to feel your body covered
with swarms of large red ants, whost stings produce excruciating
agony? or to find your jams and jellies ruined by cockroaches ?
your beer, in corked and sc 4 bottles, flat and disgusting, from
the contact of musk-rats? your ui<'e aromatic cup of tea. a perfect
flotilla of horrid insects? or your candle extinguished by a bat? I
recko'^i that no Englishman, or, for thai matt(^r, any other Euro-
pean, would relish being exposed to such a catalogue .»f ills. Ne-
vertheless, such are of daily, nay hourly occui renct- in many jiai'ts
of the vast continent of India ; and when we reflect on tliis, I
think we have every cause to be thankful for o • country and
nationality.

But it is not only on land that we enjoy the advantage ; the
rivers and seas, lakes and tanks of India abound with all kinds of
reptiles and dangerous things. Leaving out sliarks and alligators,

; ' '*.

ii ■ I''

^!!«'

152

KEMARKABLK ADVENTURES.

we may simply enumerate water-snalses, toads, frogs, leeches, etc.

As for frogs, they are so abuudant in some Indian tanks, that thoy

constitute a nuisance of themselves during wet weather. Thousands

of these unsightly reptiles keep up a clamorous concert, producing

a sound similar to

" Take an egg — Kill a duck."

repeated over and over again with a very nasal twang, whi(;h, com-
mencing adagio, gradually rises to a very high pitch, the wholo
having a running bass accompaniment of bull-frogs. But these,
tliough loathsome, are harmless : not so water-snakes, of which a
great variety exist — such, at least, is my opinion, although water-
snakes are sometimes supposed to be harmless. Possibly they
possess various degrees of venom ; but whether or not, I opine that
few things can be more disagreeable than plunging into a pleasant
cool stream on a very hot day, and finding yourself, after the first
dive, face to face with a nasty venomous-looking snake, that forth-
with sets up hissing like a goose.

On one occasion, a large water-snake introduced itself amongst
a party of natives engaged in their morning ablutions, at the foot
of one of the ghauts, in the Sone. A cry of alarm being raised, au
idler on shore seized a luUe (large strong club) from a bystander,
and, jumping into the stream, attacked the unwelcome intruder,
who had no business to contaminate the waters bathed in by high-
caste natives. The snake, nothing loth, encountered its assailant,
and, angrily erecting its head in the air, made ready to give battle.
In this interval, the gi*eater number of bathers had betaken them-
selves to the shore, or scrambled up to the decks of the nearest
budgerow, leaving the field clear to the two opponents. With pro-
truded fangs the angry snake waved its head to and fro, watching
for a favourable opportunity to strike at the man ; but this oppor-
tunity never arrived. In the interval, the spectators looked ou
with breathless anxiety, although the issue of like combats inva-

ENCOUNTEll WITH A WATER-SNAKE.

153

riably terminated in favour of the biped aggressors. There was
something terrible in the consciousness that one false step might
expose the man to the deadly fangs of the serpent, and that a bite
causing an aperture not much larger than what might be produced
by the point of a needle, would result, if not in death, in intense
suffering of longer or shorter duration. Moreover, the aggi-essor,
besides being out of his own element, had to contend against a
rapid stream, the eifects of the late heavy falls of rain. Not long,
however, were the lookers-on kept in suspense. The cudgel was
seen flourishing in the sunlight, and then descended with lightning
rapidity upon the back of the water-snake, which was crippled by
having its back broken by the blow. Still the venomous creature
managed to retreat towards the opposite bank, where the stream
ran deeper and with greater velocity ; but, with one hand cudgelling
the snake and swimming with the other, the Indian followed up
his advantage, amidst loud plaudits from the shore. For some few
minutes both were lost to sight behind a projecting angle in the
river; but almost immediately afterwards the man reappeared,
holding the now dead reptile high up in the air. On bringing the
snake to shore, it was found to be one of an ordinary species in
those parts, measuring about seven feet in length, with a brown
glossy back, very slightly marked, and white as milk underneath.
All the people about these ghauts are expert swimmers. The
only apparent inconvenience, therefore, experienced by the Indian
was, that he seemed to be rather out of breath, as he flung the
snake high upon the bank, laughing blithely the while at the
success ot his exploit. These and other varieties of snakes are
very plentiful in the Jumna and other tributaries of the Ganges,
though they are seldom to be encountered in the last-named river.
In the Bay of Bengal, the Straits of Malacca, and Gulf of Siam,
Avater-snakes are more frequently to be met with than in any other
portion of the globe : neither can any place compete with them for

i'i

^*rT!

(' t'-

\hm

at a •

I f

ini

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

variety in size and colour. On a fine day, with a gentle four-knot
breeze blowing, we have witnessetl upwards of twenty varieties of
\vater-snake8 swimming about the vessel, when off the coast of
•Sumatra. As seen in the water, with the sun sliining upon their
variegated and brilliant coats, they are beautiful to behold. That
lliere are amongst them some of great size and strength, and some
ui deadly venom, we have no hesitation in asserting ; in proof of
w hicli we may be permitted to introduce the following brief anec-
dotes, founded upon incontrovertible testimony.

In the year 1840, when the writer of this paper was sojourning
at Bangkok, the floating capital of Siam, the following incident
occurred. The weather had been for some weeks extremely
tempestuous, and a very lieavy fall of rain in the interior had
caused the waters of the Menam to rise higher than usual. At
tliat time our host, Mr. H., had commenced building a fine house
on terra jimia — the only one, with the exception of the king's
palace and some missionary houses, to be met with in Bangkok,
the rest of the population being compelled to content themselves
with floating domiciles, erected upon bamboo rafts. Our dormitory
was afloat, and here we had one evening assembled prior to retiring
for the night.

Owing to the uncongenial state of the atmosphere out of doors,
we had been subjected to the visits of many unwelcome intruders :
rats and mice, and even birds, had sought shelter under our well-
thatched roof; but heretofore we had been exempt from guests of
a more dangerous character. It will bo necessary to state that
our floating home consisted of one sitting room, with a railed-iii
verandah overlooking the river, a large bedroom behind, and a
smaller one on either side. There were three of us slept here
every night; and, on the eventful occasion in question, we were
retiring to our respective couches, when Captain M. suddenly
started back from the door of his room, with well-timed presence df

ENCOUNTER WITH A WATER-SNAKE.

155

knot
es of
,st of
their
That
some
oof of
anec-

niind closing the door after him. On inquiry he informed us, that
just as he was about entering, his eye had been attracted by what
at first appeared to bo a hirgo bit of rope coiled up on the floor :
the noise of his footsteps, and the glare of the candle ho cari'ied in
his hand, seemed to have aroused the slumberer ; and to his horror
lie beheld a Imge snake rapidly uncoiling itself.

This being the state of affairs, and as we could now distinctly
liear the creature fumbling and tumbling about in its eagerness to
escape, we deemed it most prudent to jump on shore, and rouse
Mr. H.'s servants, who were sleeping in the warehouses that had
been completed, under the now house then building. Speedily
armed with guns and sticks, and lighted by flambeaux, we returned
to investigate the nature of this nocturnal disturber, and administer
speedy retribution ; but we came too late. With the assistance of
its powerful tail the snake had succeeded in dislodging a good stout
plank, and so made its exit — a plank, too, that no ordinary man
could have dislodged without a strong effort and a heavy mallet.

Thus much for their size and strength. That they are venomous
tlie records of the royal navy too clearly indicate, when they tell
under what tragical circinn stances the doctor of her Majesty's sloop
''Wolf" fell a victim to his taste for natural history; how, when
the crew were washing the ship's decks in the IMadrr.s Roads, a
water-snake chanced to be hauled up in a bucket, and, being
incautiously handled by the doctor, inflicted a bite that occasioned
liis death within little more than an hour.

So, all things considered, we think the reader will admit that
there is no country to be compared with our own dear native isle.
At the same time, we have often admired the happy mental con-
stitution of some of our fellow-creatures, which enables them to
find pleasures in dangerous localities such as we have adverted to.
Often, also, when we have heard our missionaries in the east record
their perilous experiences, have we been struck with the gracious

)' ?. I

I'^n 'i

156

IlEMARKABLE ADVENTUIIES.

Pfl

'i \ J

and providential rare which has so wonderfully preserved them,
and kept them happy and peaceful in the midst of their useful but
arduous labours.

; (

A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN PALIS.

It was during the first months of ray residence in Paris, in the
diiys of Charles the Tenth, and nearly five-and-thirty years ago. I
had been to take a farewell dinner, and a temperate glass or two of
j\Iedoc, with a fellow-townsman and neighboiu* of mine, who was on
the point of returning to the paternal roof in Somersetshire. He
had been studying medicine and the elements of practical chemistry
for the last year, under the watchful eye of his uncle, a pharmacien
in the Place Vendome, and it was there, in the small sky-lighted
back room behind the shop, which fronted Napoleon's triumphal
column, that we had our modest symposium. I was loth to part
with him, he had been so true a friend ; he it was who crammed
me with colloquial French — the popular idioms of the Parisian
highways ; who made me acquainted with all the ins and outs,
the by-ways and the short cuts of old Lutetia, and it ght me how
to solve the difficult problem of cutting my coat according to my
(doth, A>'hich in those days was unfortunately very scanty indeed.

It is not much to be wondered at that I forgot the lapse of time,
and that, when at length I screwed myself up to the pitch of say-
ing the last farewell, and had torn myself away, it should be verging
towards the small hours of the morning. In truth, it was on the
point of striking one when I left the house, and before I had well
got clear of the broad " Place," the hour had struck.

At any other time I should not have cared a straw about this,
but have walked on quietly to my lodging in the Kue Richelieu ;
but now I knew that would be of no use. That old concentrated

ilbut

go.

A NIGHT ADVENTURE IN PAULS.

157

essence of verjuice, Ganache, the porter, to 8uvc hiiriself a little
trouble had detained my letters of a morning till I came down,
instead of sending them by the (/argon to my room on the fourth
floor ; and I had quarrelled with him in consequence, and given
notice to quit at the end of my month. Since our quarrel he had
used me savagely, and I knew he was no more likely to let me in
alter one o'clock than he was to pay my tailor's bill.

This reflection brought me to a stand-still. What should I do ?
Where should I go ? To increase my chagrin it began to rain in a
mther sharp shower. Instinctively I faced about, ran across the
Place, and got under shelter of the piazzas in the Kue do Castig-
lione, just in time to save myself from a drenching torrent which
burst on the streets like a waterspout. I was walking up and
down in the dark, taking counsel of myself, until the storm should
cease, when I stumbled and tripped over somebody lying crouched
up at the foot of a pillar.

" Is that you, Janin ?" said a rather whining voice, which
seemed to proceed from some one in the act of waking from sleep.

" No," said I, " it isn't Janin : who are you ? and why are you
lying here at this time of niglit ?"

" Un pauvre aveiigle !' said he ; " I am waiting liere for my
comrade, who is gone to the spectacle. You see, M'sieu, Janin is
fund of the spectacle, and while he is getting liis fill of it, I take
my pastime on the cold stones."

I thought it but a grim sort of joke, and told him 1 should tliink
better of Janin if he were more considerate for his friend.

The poor blind wretch did not agree with me, and, to my sur-
prise, began vindicating the character of Janin. " You see,
M'sieu," he said, " if I am blind, Janin has good eyesight, and why
should he not enjoy it ? he may as well be blind as I, if he is to
see nothing. One should not be selfish although one is unfor-
tunate." «

■ i,

,' S

S t

MSh

(

■\'f '

; If
1

W,|!!

158

UEMARKABLE ADVENT UllKS.

Wliilc Iio was spoakiiif]^, and I was inwardly adinirini^ liis sini[)lo
inagiiaiiiinity, Janin came up at a quick pace, and chanting' u
lively ditty. " What, my old philosoplicr ! .so you have company,"
ho said : " I am afraid I must disturb your conference."

" Make no a[)ology for that, I pray," said I ; " but if you ciiii
direct me to a lodging I shall feel obliged."

" You are English," said Janin ; " there is an English house in
the Hue de I'Odeon, which is always open till two. If you malcc
for the Pont Neuf at once, and step out, you will bo there in good
time."

" Good night, then, my lads ; " and away I trudged at a round
pace for the Pont Neuf — crossed it in a pelting shower, and miulo
the best of my way to the Rue de I'Odeon. I accounted myself
fortunate in reachins: the house a few minutes before the hour for
closing the door, but found that I had not so much cause for eon-
gTatulation as I had imagiii^ti, as the place was full, and the only
accommodation the landlady could offer me was a small truckle
bed in a two-bedded room, already bespoken for the night by a
previous comer.

Being wet through by the rain, and feeling that I should not
mend matters by faring further, I was fain to make a virtue of
necessity, and accej^t the truckle bed. IMoreover, wishing to get
out of my damp garments as quickly as possible, I asked for my
candle, and was forthwith shown to the dormitory, which I found
was up four flights of stairs. I lost no time in getting between the
sheets, but had no intention of going to sleep until I knew at least
what sort of a subject was to be the companion of my slumbers.
So I took a book from my pocket, and placing my candle on n
(;hair by the bed-side, began to read, resolved to keep my light
burning and myself awake until the sound of footsteps on the stairs
should apprise me of the approach of the stranger. After the lapse
of dbout luilf an hov-r the sdunds I was listening for approached ;

A NiailT ADVENTUKE IN PARIS.

159

iniplo
in,U" it
miiv,"

)U cull

)iis(* ill

muk','

11 good

I round
I made
. mysL'lf
lOur for
for con-
he only
tniclde
lit by Ji

»iil(l not
irtue of
to get
for my
I found
reen tlio
at least
umbers,
[le on a
ly light
e stairs
Ihe lapse
loacliecl :

and llioii, dapping the extiuguisher on the light, I lay back, half
closed my eyes, and affected to sleep.

The ligure tliat now entered the room was not at all a fascinating
one, to my view at h'ast. He was a man of about five-and-tliii'ty,
jauntily garbed in one of the pea-green, high-collared surtouts
cun-eiit among the fast mon who affected the Luxembourg quartor
of the Paris of that day, but which surtout, hko the rest of his
garments, seemed to have run all too suddenly to seed. There
was something boozy and vicious in tlie expression of liis face,
wliich, spite of a fierce-looking moustache, gave one the idea of
meanness and servility coupled with a reckless kind of bravado,
which smacked rather of swagger than of daring ; and in every
feature there was the impress of debauchery and intemperance.
He uttered a brief common-place greeting as he entered the room,
but finding that I took no notice of it, probably concluded that I
was asleep, and so said no more.

In less than five minutes he had bundled himself into bed and
had put out the light, and after a few minutes more began to give
audible tokens of the soundness of his slumbers. ^Hiongh I had
formed the worst opinion of my companion, I did not feel the
shghtest alarm. He evidently had no hostile purpose ; he had no
weapon of any kind, not even a stick, and I felt assured that in a
personal encounter I could easily master him. Still, there was
something in his wandering eye, which never rested for a moment
on a single spot, that I did not like, and I felt a little annoyed with
myself that I had not placed my garments nearer my hand, instead
of spreading them on chairs in the middle of the room, in order t<j
get them diy. These thoughts, however, were but momentary,
and in a very brief space I had forgotten everything in a quiet
slumber.

I suppose I may ha,vc slept about two hours, and the dawn was
just breukii^g, when I was tiwokc by ii slight noioc like ^oinelhing

1 ,,j t^ .'.1

^r i\

■I

i . '
1,:

100

UEMAllKABLE ADYENTUKES.

falling on the tiled floor of the ai)artmout. Liu'kily I did not slart
or niuk(3 the least movement, but, half opening my eyen, in thr
full consciousness of the situation, I saw that my companion was in
the act of getting out of bed. His movements were so slow and
cautious, and noiselessly made, that they roused ray suspicion, and
I watched him narrowly through my seemingly closed lids. \\'ith
the stealthiness of a prowling cat he got upon his feet, and, with
his eyes fixed on me, advanced slowly to the foot of my bed. His
object plainly was to be sure that I slept ; and I took care to
betray no sign of wakefulness that might undeceive him. After a
statue-like watch of a few moments, he seemed to have assured
himself of my slumbers, and turning softly round, thrust his hand
into one of the pockets of my pantaloons, and, withdrawing the
contents, retreated to his bed, carrying the plunder with liini
Here he lay motionless for several minutes, watching me atten-
tively the while At length he raised himself, and, drawing a
canvas bag from beneath his pillow, deposited within it the booty
he had seized, replaced it, and lay down as if to compose himself
to sleep.

My blood was boiling in my veins at the fellow's impudent
robbery, and I felt half inclined to rise and pummel him as he lay,
and recover my property. There was no occasion, however, for
any hurry; and, reflecting that second thoughts are sometimes
best, I lay still, endeavouring to form some plan for doing myself
justice, if it might be, without a scene of violence, which might be
attended with unpleasant consequences, but fully determined to do
battle for my own, if no other alternative presented it . jlf. The
contents of the pocket which the fellow had rifled amounted to
about three pounds English, all in five-franc pieces, which I had
received from my friend of the night before, in final discharge of
an accommodation account between us. This was no great sum,
to be sure, but it was more than I could then afford to lose ; and

Iho rascal was „„ ^ore asleen ,,f 'V"'^""'' >""eh deceive,!
mdignatioa were per,,lc,in„ 2 '""'■ ^''"y ""■^'■'^ty a S

-mo moment troubli;rn! „;,/"' r^-l'--"- -re aM
J'ope of concoctinc^ „ ?,iJ' /■ ' T •"'' "' ^ ""^ "Uuduni.,^ oii

''h-ch had at least tl,e promise T ^ '" l*"»««'on of „„„

eyes suddenly, and fix thim ft I ^ "''''?• ^ ^'>^ '"''" op-n J
e canvas bag once n.ore f" It nXli ""^1 "^'"^ '>" -'"1
"f bed with it in his hand ^ "'"^**'' ''« 1>J'"«-, ,md steppd „„

withered geranium in a gWed^"^, ''°^ "1'"" ^--e windot'La

-r«stiek,wWehhaddrSd„p::dtrr ^"'""'^ "'-' -I !
amazement the thief lifted f I, . *"' "'"" "^ «ater. To mv

'•'"■^ingthe ea.th in wh ^ hi ^ "'" °"' °^ "■« P"* h he ste7

;«gether by the rootraW^ift f?' »"" -'-" -- all m S

Jarro-^----^;4^rp^^^^^^^

;f ^ "4r„ t:f - £lr -- °^ - - very

any concealed spectator who lu "n ?'^''* ''"^-^ P«^<^"te<l
«r relative predicaments du^ rS, ""' ^'""' '" *''« ^<^^t of
^.-ew, of course, that my liit f nt f r™^ *'vo hours or so. J
™»g till I was „p and gone haWn f"°;' """'' ""* tWnk of

""gl't reasonably iem ■> b yondt ,! I! "r,'" ''"''^ ^l^-^ ^=

yom the possibility of discovery, l,o

: Mi

y %

I ! '

1G2

EEMARXABLE ADVENTURES.

was doubtless prepared to outface any suspicion or accusation that
uiiuflit bo made against him, and therefore he would lie there until
he had the field to himself. Accordingly, about seven o'clock I
got up, deliberately washed and dressed, and, having finislied
my toilet, was almost ready to start, being well aware all the while
that the fellow, who was feigning sleep, had his eyes upon me, and
was watching for tlie moment when I should discover my loss. Of
coui-se I did not discover it ; but when I had drawn on my boots,
and was ready to go, I heca.me suddenly aware that the atmospheit-
of the room was insulTerably close, and began to puff and blow, and
ejaculate interjoctional complaints of the want of air ; at the next
moment I ran to the window, threw it wide with one hand, and
leaning forward as if to catch the morning bre(.'ze, awkwaidly
swept off the flower-pot down into the little court seventy leet bcdovv.

In an instant tiie seeming sleeper was standing in his shirt on
the middle of the floor, and demanding with an angry oath what I
had done.

*•' Nothing," said I, " beyond breaking a flower-pot — tlif* plant
was withered and good for nothing. Excuse my awkwardness ; 1
will indemnify the landlady. Gmjd morning."

My nonchalance dGcei'';ed the scoundrel, and he stood aside ti>
let me pass, looking luther black, however, as I walked out. Therr
socinied. to l.>e no o?it: astir in the house save ^he //ar^<7«-, who was
roasting coffee at the opeo front door ; and I was only made awar<
of him by the agreeable fumes which assailed my nostrils, as I
^i|)ed like a gi*ey hound down the stairs. In half a minute I was I'i
the little back court, where lay the smashed remains of the pot
and thv-^ withered flower. Feeling morally cei-tain that the shock
head and scowling visage of the thief weri^ protrndi^ig frcni tha
window above, I drew the canvas bag from the criiinl »led dry moukl,
and held it up to his gaze. There he was, sure enougli, growling
and ifrriii'lini]: his teeth with raq;c and m')itincation.

J'ricju
■ aen

JiJons

''viiarv
'Wend

.'■^'H gi

"f thoi

'Jou'n

hanof>

''^'•'*r-atii

' ''■■"/so;

A NIGHT ADVENITRE IN PARIS.

1G3

hat
ntil
k I

and
Of

)O0tS,

, and
^, next
d, awl
,vardly
bt^low.
[lirt on
what 1

plant

Iness; 1

vsidc to
Tbeiv

le awiiK
[Is, as i

was lii

[rem tae
ly moul^i.

" Why don't yon cry * Stop thief?' " 1 bawled out to liim.
'• Dill you think to catch the Eng^lishman asleep? Au n.^roir,

(oquin

I waited no reply, but making for the street, jumped into the
M-st fiaore that came in \'iew, and in half an hour had alighted at
i!iy own io<lging. As I was mounting to my apartment, ait qua-
frii'me, 1 met on the stairs my friend and chum Ollendorf, who was
> illyhig forth to meet his morning pupils.

'• ilalloo !" said he, '* you've been out all night ?"

*' Yes," said I, '- and I've had an adventure."

*' Ciood ! let me hear all about it."

I told bin) how I had passed the night, and all that had
b^ppened.

" Capital !" he cried; '''and have you examined the thief's bag?"

" No, I have not done that yet ; but of course it contains nothing
iju( what is mv own;"

" Do not l>e too surf: of that. Come, we will examine it together."

Re followed me into my nx)ra, and I lugged forth the bag,
i elinjr confident that the fertile imagination of my philological
iiiend had misled him, as it was apt to do. To my astonishment
here were in the l>ag, in addition to the money rifled from my
iwket, a. gold napol<eon, a iive-franc piece, and a pair of enor-
uiousiy large circular »'antngs of alloy erl gold, su(!h as one often
-'t^s in the ears of h.^ provijicial immigrants who crowd the
.vharves, th<* markets, and warehouses of Paris. " There !" said my
■rioiid, *' yon see that, the rascal had more strings to his bow than
yf»u gave* him credit for. If you had made an uproar and a charge
if t'icft, lie could have veUyriiA the cliarge upon you — would liavo
■lown his own empty poek^a, and luight liavo stood as good a
hance of criminating you as yon of criminating him. However,
<v>u may forgive him, since he has pai<t you for the trouble of
defeating his purpose; and really, i think )i< lias treated you
' -^nHsMnirdv."

HRMAHKAHLR ADVENTUHRf^.

•' Auuinsf his will ; but, porionslv, wliat ouij:li( T to (!o? ILul 1 not
bottor |mt iho atVair into iho hands of tlu> |)olico?"

" Do yon know tl\o rnlo in snrli rasoH lioro? If not, I nin.st ttill
yon that if yon jnit thothic'fH nionoy into the han(l« of iho ]M>li('(',
yon will jiIro Im^ oompollod to hand over tlu^ wholo contonta of liio
hao^ ; «ni(l how ninch of it yon will {»;ot hjiok, and w/un you will got
any, yo\i ninat ho oh»V(M*or than 1 am if yoii can puosH."

I linally dot^dod n'4 to tronhio iho ])olio(» with tho bnsinrsa; hui
as 1 <'onld not have nuido nso of tho Hconndnd's nionoy, any nioro
ihan 1 oonld havo worn tho hngo oarrin^s, I wra|»|>od both np in
]>Mp<n' togc^thor, and phuvd iluMu in my ])ook<'t-book until tinii^
and inronnistanriM should prosoni son\o lit and propor mode of dis-
posinjr of ih(Mn.

It wa^i alHint a yoiiv aftor tho above advontaro, and when tlu*
d(^t:\ils of it had almost fadod from my nuMuory, that 1 was invit<>(l
bv a friimd from liUijjInnd to aooom])anv him on a visit to on«> of
the Parisian prisons — if 1 rocolloct ri«;ht it was tho Now Ihcotrr,
which, aftor a deal of solicitation and trouble, ho liad obtained poi-
mission to ins[XH't. Whilo wo woro wandorinj; ilirongh iho work-
slumps, in which tho prisoners laboiu' together in silcnco for so
many houi*s a day, as my fricMid was committing: his notes to jiiipis-.
I amused mys(^lf by ,seannin<>; the (hMuoralized pliysioj^nomics
around me, little susp(^ctin«»; that I was destined to luid an ac-
(juaintanee among them. Close to my <dbow' there stood a man nt
a bench, bending over liis work, wliich was that of carving sabols
from unshapely blocks of willow wood. 1 was adnuring the rapidity
and lH>ldness of his execution, when ho suddenly lifted his hciul
and ex|)osed to view the face, which 1 hud formerly studied with
such deliberation, of the thief of the Hue do TOdeon. 1 knew him
at once, and sjiw that the rtH'ognition was mutual, for ho lowcroil
liis head agjiin instantly, and plainly sought to elude my gaze. I
could not, of course, spcnk to him then, without eontravciiing the
rules o( the prison : but on imparting my wish to do so to the

AN ADVilNTrRE AT TKTT^A.

lo.-i

not

\ jrrV

; but
111 on >
lip in
tiiin^
)f (Uh-

vn tlu^
luvitod

ouo c>r

LUcetir,

0(1 I'ov-
worlx-
i'or so
pM\M»r,

uomi*'!^
nil tic-
uuin ill
sabots
•apitUty
is Uoiul
0(1 svitU
lew liin^
Unvo.roJ

7.0. 1

lung tli^'
to tl\o

l^juldo who IumI 115* in i'lmr<^o, ho proinisod to ^iv(^ mo ihv, oppor-
tunity I Hon^Hjt, whf»n wo iuul liniHlird our miivoy. Ilo was jw
<^H>(1 ns \m word, and holorn hMivini:^ tho prison I wmh <'oii(hici(Hl to
th(^ (h>lin(piont in liis own coll, whithor \w hud boon romuinhul that
I niiglit 800 liini. 'I'ho poor wrotoli who, it was (doar, isiniKirird
tliiit. T WUH g<)inf!j to lod^^o a IVosh ohar^jjt* jif^aiiiHt him, Hoomo<l struck
with a mortal pahiicHH uh J ent«'rod.

" Do not bo ahirn'od," I said ; " I luivo no comphiint to n»ako
agaiuHt you ; but I havo l)oon winliin^ to nn^ot you, and to nuiko a
rcHtoration of property wliich may |)orhapH b(^ of uh<? to you." I
unlbldcMl my pockot-book an<l took out thc^ litthf pnckot containin*^

nn[)

)]o(U). tin* iivo-i'ranc pioco, and liio oarrintr

ingH.

((

'J'l

lOHC,

think, belong to you — is it not so?"
lb' bow(Ml assont, but did not npoak

** Take thorn," I said, ** and tako Imttor (Miro of tliom than you
did wh(Mi you liad thorn hist."

Ib» glanc(Ml at tho attonihint, as if to intimai » tliat tho man's
piTsoiico provcnt(Ml his saying moro, an<l moroly replied, witJi iin-
pn^ssivo oarnostnoss, " M'sieu, you are a man of honour !"

1 wished I <'ould return the oomijlimont.

AN ADVKNTUIIK AT VV/niA.

In {\w early part of tLj si)ring of last year I had joinofl a i)aity
^vlu) proposed journi^ying from (airo to J(;rusalem by what is
usually calhul the " hmg desert njuto," ])assing by Mount Sinai,
Akabali, and tho famous rock-hewn city of P<;tra. Our party con-
sisli'd of nine Englishmen, one of whom wius accom[)aniod by his
wife, and our dragoman. Mohammed (;iozoni had formerly travelled
over the sann^ ground with the Kev. A. 1*. Stanley, whose recent

y-y

; :iffl

IGG

IIEMATIK ABLE ADVENT U IlKS.

AN ADVENTURE AT PETRA.

167

work on Sinai tind Palestine has attracted so much attention.
After spending several days amid the sublime scenery that encircles
Horeb, the " mount of God," we travelled on to Abibah, at the
liead of the easternmost of the two arras of the Red Sea; and hero
we met with the first contretemps of our journey.

It is well known that Petra is in possession of a tribe of Bedouins,
who are perhaps the most thievish and rulliauly of the Ishmaclito
race. Indeed, the Fellaheen of Wady Lleasn, as they are called,
rely almost entirely for subsistence upon the suras which they arc
able to extort from passing travellers ; and their outrageous
demands and conduct towards the few who have penetrated iut
their fastnesses, have caused the majority of tourists to avoid Petra,
iis they would have avoided the highland glen of Kob Koy in the
palmy days of that redoubtable freebooter. It was alraost at the
risk of their lives that Irby and ]\[angles visited this spot in 1818 :
Dr. Kobinson was obliged to make a hasty retreat before he had
explored half its wonders ; and Burckhardt could only succeed in
seeing it at all by assuming the disguise of a Mohammedan pilgrim.
Latterly, however, the danger attending a visit to Petra seemed t
have been much diminished. Sheikh Hussein, the powerful head
of the Alouin tribe of Arabs, had made his power felt even by the
lawless Fellaheen of Wady Mousa ; and for some years past had
been in the habit of escorting travellers through their territory, at
the fixed rate of 11. for each traveller ; in return for which pay-
ment he guaranteed full protection both to life and property. We
had left Caii'o in the full expectation of securing this slioikh on
those terms. Judge, then, of our disappointment on learning, when
we arrived at Akabah, that Hussein was at a distance of eight days
in the interior of the country, engaged in a war with a rival tribe,
and possessed neither of leisure nor inclination to escort us to Petra,
Our position wixs now rather a vexatious one. The Arabs who had
accompanied us hitherto refused to go further with us, as tlieir

()

\i i

f :

III
■i

HIS

1{1;!MAHKA1U,K AnVKNTHHIW.

lir '^f

,11

iY\\)o ]\iu\ Mil o\{\ \'o\u\ \\'\\h lli(» l'\^lljiluMM» of W «mIv I^rousM ; ninl il
>vns ns \\\\\{A\ «s tlwMr livoH wow woHli to V(Mi1nro into \]\o hMritoi y
of tluMi* implaoahlo fo<>s. Alono, it wjw of coiirso JTnpoHwihh' to
]>n)(MMHl ; and wo 1k\«1 iu> ooiiiw* ojhmi to n.s Imi oitlicr to tuki'
iiuotluM* ainl vory oinMiitoiis rout(^ to l^llostino, (Mitiroly omitting
rotra. or olso to v<Mitun» into that ancient capital of Iduntoa malir
iho pn>l<vtion of anotluM- triho of Aral>H. tl>o Tiyahas, whoso Hlioikli,
tliougli on p^ooil t(M'n\s witli tho l'\»llali(v»n, yot lia<l no mv\\ <'ontrol
ovor tb(Mn as \\\u\ S\\v'\\ih Hnsscin. AftcM* HonuMleliboration, >vo
(looid<Ml on tlio latt«M' of thosi* ooni*s«^s ; and to tho same oonrliiHiou
«'ann^ also tlnvi* otlior ]>arti(^s, wln'oh W(» moi at Akabali, and >vhos(»
plans, like onr own, h.id 1>«hm\ d<M'angod by tho failuro of onr
<^xp(Vt(Hl osoort. Aivordingly, oiir unitcMl caravan, now consiHtin^
o( tW(Mdy-ono Knropi^ans — tlnv(» of thorn huhos — Hoi olV, by tho
i>:roat \\i\\ roa(i, in tho diro(^tion of Nahkl, a solitary tort in thr
ih^soit o( VA Till, and tho In^ad »pia' '(»rs of tin* trib(» from which
wo hoped (o obtain a gnard to l\»tra.

Wo reached this place on tho fomth day after leaving Akabah.
and had to wnit thnn* davs nn>ro whilst a sntlicient nund)or of

ft'

camels were being collected for our further progn^ss. Our now
protoctoi's from the tii^st gave us to undei>itnnd that they would
hnve nothing to do with any ditticulty which might arise betwcn
oni-Si^lvoa and the Fellaluvn at IVtra. Tln^y wore willing to take
us there, but refused to givt^ any guarantin* against extortion or
violence. And socinir wo I'ould obtain tlnMr escort on no better
tenns. wo woiv obliged to content ourselves with such as they
oiHered. Wt^ wi^ro, howt^ver, oncom-aged by tho thought that it
was by no means im]x^ssiblo to got into Petra and out again with-
out the Arabs knowing anything of our visit, till it was too late for
the pur]>oses of roblvry. The Fellaheen do not live in Petrn
itself, but in a village two miles distant ; and we ilattered oui-selves
that by a little extra caution and expedition, wo might altogether

AN ADVKNTIHR AT I'KTIIA.

1(1!)

.1 il
or)
» to

lulrv

ulrol

n, wo
\iHiou

if o\ir
liHtiuj:
>y 0\o

<'M(»M|)i» il loncontro witli thoHo nipiicioim houh of tlu> (IohpH. How
inistnliPii wo won* in our rnlculiitioiiH will proHontly up|MMir.

\\ took us llvo (layH to go from Nalikl to Mount llor, tho most
oonHpicuoUH lundnmrk in i)i(t w(*Htrrn border of I'idoin. From ilii.s
point, II narrow and viM-y difficult \m\hh, of tliroo hours in longtli,
introdiiood ua to tlu^ In^ftrt of the un(>i(>nt Soir, a wil<l diHtrict of
rock and glen, prccipico and ravine, with hero and there a little
ohhIs of v»>rdnn\ hut, as a general rule, of a harron and savago
UHpcct. It was late in the 4»vening of 'rhursday, the 'Jnd of April,
wluMi we hI^mmI on a height overlooking tho ruins of J*etra, which
filled a HpuciouH valh»y of aljout a mile in length, with numoroiiH
oflVhootH running back in all directions among tho niountuins.
lufore we rcMiclu^d this spot, si^veral of our party had taken tho
opj)ortunity to ascend Mount llor, tlu^ view from which was suhlimo
in tho oxtre!uo. Tho wholo country app(^ared like a heaving sea,
whose waves had suddenly be(»n converted into stone.

The ground chos(>n for our <;n<'ampment was a grassy platc^au,
about one hundn^d yards Hijuare, connnand(Ml on three sides by
procipitous ro(^ks, honeycombed with tombs and caverns, and on the
lourlh shelving steeply (h)wn into a wi(h^ valh^, that wns probably
till* principal stroj^tof the city in nncient tim(\s. The only mcians of
exit was by tho i)ass through which wo had entered, which at this
extremity was not more than six or irght firet wide, and was shut
ill on either side by tall and rugg<'d cliHs. Th(^ proccsss of pitching
oiu- tcMits was rendered somewhat longer* than usual by the necessity
\Nc were under of searching for snakes, scorpions, and (Mritipedes,
»omv, do'/iris of which were killed by tho Arabs in a very short
^nuT of time. In other respects oin* situation was pleasant enough.
It was dry and sheltorod ; tlu? vie^w over tho ruins was exceedingly
line, and tlui ground was covered with shrubs, grass, and wild
flowers, tho first wo had soon for many weary wc'cks of de.'seit
truvt.'l. Ijut as a strategical position it was utterly worthless. \V(^

170

i;r:M.\!:K.MW,E ADVi:NT;M;r:s.

woro romplctoly u( i\\o morry of any on<' wlu» hold tlio lioi/i^hf^
arouiul im, ami could Im picKod «»IV willi |M»rr«M'1, oano. hy nifirliMfncii
ronciMilcMl in {\\o cMVi'H iiiid lu'liiud Hio dotiifluMl na^8, witliout «»iir
«Mt<'hin^ ovou n ^limpso of our nssfiilaiits. And to iittompt Ww
piissiijvo or flu* ddilo l)y which wo hud ontcMVHl, whoTi iho rocks on
citluM' «id<MV(^ro held hycncMnioH, wotild bo l»nt to |)rovol<(» a n»po(i-
tion of tin* Khyhor trn-icdy on a sniall Hoalo. This, howovor, Wii^
\ho only p^o«>d oanipinf^ gnaind in tho plaoo.

Wo woro ra<h(M' snrprisod, on arriving at (ho spot ahovodj^Horibcd.
io tind it oo«M]pi(Ml by a ]>arty of abont twolvo Knf^lish and Aniori-
oMns, whom W(» had pivviously niot at Caiix). Thoy had arrivcMl nl
AUnbah a fow days aft or wo hud <piittod it, and had wiooo«»dod in
tindinjr an Aloiiin, of sonio w<Mp;ht with his trilw — Alxairasohid, .1
rolativo of Sheikh Hussoin's — who had undortnUon to oonduot them
to r<^tra on tcM-ms similar to thoso on whicli wo had ngrood willi
tho Tiyahns. Our frionds had shown nion^ forosifyht than wo had:
i\\o\ had loft th(Mr t(Mits nnd bagc^ap^o on tho othor sido of Mount
I lor, and had n^ad(\ as it w<mt. a tlying inotirsion into tho dangoroi^
tiMTJIorv, brini::inir with tlu^ni but tho barost noc^'ssarioa of food and
Ixntdinii:, and on(^ sniall tout for a lady who was in their party. Tlic
n st W(^r(^ oontiMitod to slo(^p in tho tombs and oaves duji; in tlic
nx'k. Th(\v had postivl scouts in all directions, had their dronn -
(l.jrios w^Minvl in a ravine close by, and were ready to clear off al
tho iii'st intimation of a]>proachinf^ danger. The wisdom of thcso
precautions will be a]>pannit in the sequel.

We, who had biinitrht all onr t(nit« and oqnipap;e, encamp(vl in
tlio usual way, and our cann^ls wore soon wid(^ly dispersed in soarcli
of pasturairo. The first night psissixl without any alarm. Not ;i
hostile IVdouin was to Ih> seen, and w<^ began to augur favourably
for the success of our ex[>edition, and to joke our friends on thoir
ur.ntvcssary caution and watchfulness. The night, indeed, proved
so cold, that thcv half recretted havinj? left their tents behind, and

AN AF)VI»lVT>ini; AT PKTTZA.

171

\ii our

pi til.'

Amcri-

IMVCmI 111

[hM i\i

ct lluMii
>o(l with
wo lijul ;
f Moiuit

food an<l

ty. 'nu>

o; in till'
• drouM'-
ar off i>^
of tUesr

I, jirovocl
kind aiul

'vrro ^h\<\ to lUTopt, Hiioli n'TommojIution us wo wniiM ofT'rr tlioni in
) (rnipoiHry liiibitntioriH.

At HM oarly lionr in tho nu)rninf^ wo woro nNtir, nnd oxplorin^^
tho wonclors of thip nnnpni city. ]{nh('rtR'« hrHniifnl lifliofrmpliicr
vi(»WH ^!:ivo H vory ^ood idoa of tJir ji^cncTal app^'anuuM' of (fin niiiiH,
wliifli cotiHist of lioiisoH, toniploH, and fotnhs hown ont. of tlif^ wmd-
MtotM» rock, wln'«'h in licro roniarkalilc* for tlio varii'ly inid riflniosH of
ilM tinlH, «lispoH(Ml ill wavint^ Htroakw and fantaHlic niarhlo paftcrnH,
MM p<»onliar and nni(pio as tliry aro rnafj^nilii'ont. In a. few wpian;
fpot, of rook you 8oo li^lit pink, doop oriinson, all llio iniorniodiato
shadosof rod, oranp:o, .safVron, purpio, ^ro<Mi, frroy,and nuniorouHotlior
rolonrs, dispoHod wilJi mom iMianiy of ofVd'ct than wan over dinplayo^l
l>y inodom lioiiso dooomtor, and uBtonirthinf^ tlm boholdor by tJw^
ropniarity and hannony with wliicjh thoy an5 bhnnlod. It, is worth
visiliiifT Pctra to udniiro this wonderful phonomerion of natnro,
nlono.

Tho facjadofl of noarly ail the ox(;avHtions aro onrichod witli (ino
Fonipturo and architectural ornannuits. Those aro rdiietly pilastorn
niul oornioos, oarvcul doorways an<l windows, and balustnidod torraces
n|>proachcd by sbiiroasc'S cut out of the solid rook. It is calculated
that these rock dw<dlinp^ would afl'ord accommodation for a popula-
tion of thirty thousand. Tlio theatn^, which, like the rest of tho
city, is hown out of the natural rock, would scat an audience of fiv(^
tlioiisand. Tliis ruin has one very peculiar feature. Tlu* cliflH
that surround it, and also those fiwiin^ it on the op{K)site side of
tlio valley, are perforated with innumerable caves, the tombs of the
foruuT inhabitants of IV'tra. It is in fact the centre of an immenwi
renietcry ; and the thoughtless tJironf^ that crowdfjd its benches
must have always had before their ciyes the solemn mementoes of
th(Mr own mortality. How stronj^ly would a thoughtful mind liave
been impressed by this juxtaposition of sepulchral scones and the
cruel and frivolous sports of the ancient amphitheatre I But it is

■V

It '* '

i:ii

172

REMAKKADLK ADVENTUKEH.

to 1)0 feared that the lioatlum multitiuloH who iissemhletl lu?re woro
wliolly ins<Misil)lo to the Horious refleotlcms which might have bopii
snggcMted by the strange H|K*etaclo aroniid tliem.

Het'i)re I go any further in tlio aceonnt ^f my own visit to Petrn,
])(Mha])s tliere are some of my renders who may wish to know u
little about the history of that wonderful city.

CU APT Ell II.

The city of Petra is supposed to have been founded about the
time of Abraham, for it was then that the Edomites first began to
assume imjwrtanee tus a nation. It was taken by Amaziah, king (»!'
Judah, but did not remain long in his possession; and very soon
afterwards the original inhabitants themselves, the Idumeans, were
expelled by a new tribe from the south-east, the Nabathtcans, who,
from the account given of them by Diodonis Siculus, appear tu
have very much resembled the mode rn Bedouins in character and
mode of life. Petra now became tiie capital of this people, wh
succeeded in maintaining their independence against numerous
invaders, nntil the time of the Koman emperor Trajan, by whoiu
tliey were finally subdued. Petra afterwards became a Christian
city, and the see of an archbishop ; but when the false prophci
Mohammed began his career of conquest, this city was one of the
first to submit to his arms. It is now completely deserted, and its
present desolate condition furnislies a wonderful proof of the trutli
of prophecy. For instance, Isaiah predicted that "none shall pass
through it for ever." And this is now undoubtedly the case, for
Petra is the universally shunned of travellers ; and though formerly
the high road of commerce from the east to the west, its ravines
now only occasionally resound with the hurried footsteps of ii
P»edouin, or a chance wayfarer. Indeed, the whole of the prophec}
from which the above words are taken has been literally fulfilled ;

AN ADVENTimK AT rKTIlA.

173

woro
now II

and travellers who read its iiwful donuiiciationa on the 8|H)t8 to
which tlu^y rol'or, aro con»trainod to acknowlodpo that not ono jot
or ono titth' has failed of acoompIiHhmont. As Kzokiel says, "All
wlw pass byhor aro astonished." I may add that th(^ greater part
of the ruins date from the later ufrvn of tho Koman empini, and
thonph very magnificent and profusely adorned with sculpture,
evince a debased and corrupt taste in architecture, vc^ry difTerent to
the noble ideas embodied in tho temph's and monuments of ancient
( f ree<^e.

When we returned to breakftwt, aftcT tlio explorations described
in the previous paper, wo were disposed to exult in the fn^edom
from trouble which we seemed likely to enjoy. Hitherto not an
Arab had made his appearance ; and already, in imagination, we
were safe on tho other side of the vlreaded pass, congratulating t)ur-
selves on having outwitted the robbers who inhabit these fastn(3sses.
With these feelings of false security w<; started again, about 10 a.m.,
to complete our researches in the valley. We first visited the
Khuzneh, tho most famous sight of Petra — a noble temple, or
palace, with a riclily-decorated fa<;ade cut out of a towering mass of
rose-coloured sandstone. This faqade is about a hundred teet high,
and is surmounted by a colossal uni, which the Arabs imagine
contains the " treasures of king Pharaoh." In the; hope of gaining
this treasure, they have fired so frequently at this urn, that its
surface is now pitted with the dints of innumerable bullets. They
have also tried to reach the coveted prize by cutting holes for the;
hands and feet in the smooth face of tho precipice, but appear to
have given up in despair at a height of some seventy-five feet. It
is impossible, by words alone, to give an adequate idea of tlie noble
appearance of this Khuzneh : a cry of admiration involuntarily
escaped our lips as we caught the first glimpse of it on emerging from
a fragrant thicket of oleanders, tamarisks, and wild fig-trees. We
spent fully an hour in studying it from various points of view, and

:ll

i-li

.»!

i'\

if
I

V I i

^ I-

r. 'I

■- r ■ t

174

KKMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

aii1iclpatr(i with p^reat interest a seeond visit on our return from
tho Sik, wliich we now proooded to explore.

TJio Sik is a long winding ravine, of a width varying from 12 to
20 feet, and ovorliung by stupendous crags of a deep crimson huo,
some of them rising to a height of nearly 250 feet. The sublimity
of this defile is beyond conception, but it is also not devoid of a
kind of beauty ; for it is filled with dwarf trees and shrubs ; dcli-
(!ate ferns and creepers hang from its walla of rock ; and a clear
cool brook runs amongst tho stones in its bottom, forming here a
j)ool, and there a mimic cataract, and then perhaps diving for u
lime from view beneath a mass of rock or an overhanging canopy
of foliage and flowers.

We had proceeded for about a mile and a half up this ravine,
and had just come in sight of a broken Roman arch that spans its
further extremity, when, on turning a comer, '.ve were struck
dumb by the unexpected apparition of some twenty ruifianly
looking Bedouins, armed with guns, swords, and clubs, and running
to meet us with wild yells and wilder gestures. We were un-
armed ; but had we been otherwise, resistance would have been
out of the question ; for we could see and hear numbers of i'r(?8li
assfiilants scrambling over the rocks in our direction, and we were
presently surrounded and made prisoners by as ferocious and
ragged a set of bandits as I ever wish to come in contact with.
They forthwith made us turn back, and tumultuously hurried us
in the direction of our camp, shouting and firing their long guns in
z\ie air, till the lofty precipices of the Sik re-echoed with a din
almost sufficient to have split the solid rock. It was about noon
when our researches among the ruins of Petra were brought to
this sudden and unexpected termination.

Our friends, the party of twelve, must have received an early
intimation of the approaching danger ; for on our arrival at the
camp, we found them mounted and on the point of moving off.

AN ADVENTURE AT PETRA.

175

T]»o Arabs were aa yet hardly in suffirient foive to prevent their
departure, but they might liavo eaused them considerable aunoy-
jince and eyen injury ; therefore it was thought advisubhi to con-
ciliate their forbearance by the payment of a sum of money,
jiraounting to about ten pounds. The Arabs were tho more ready
to accept this, inasmuch as they felt that we were completely in
their power, and, with all our tents and baggage, formed a far
more valuable prey than our lightly equipped friends. Yet it was
not in the Bedouin nature to strike the bargain without a li)iii>:
wrangle, and the scene which preceded the final scttUng was nut
at all calculated to reassure us as to tho success of any ellbrts wo
might be disposed to make to reduce tho demands of our un-
sci-upuious captors. At last our friends departed without oj)[)osi-
tion ; we gazing wistfully after them, and feeling that they could
now afford to laugh at us with much more reason than we had
laughed at them on the previous evening.

No sooner had they gone tlian the Arabs fell upon us wJth
doubled importunity ; and as their numbers augmented, so did
their demands. Every half-hour brought in fresh reinforcements,
jind by about five in the afternoon there could not have been fewer
than two hundred and fifty of these brigands gathered around our
tents. Some of them seized the surrounding heights and the
defile by which we hoped to escape, menacing us from thence with
levelled guns. Others prowled about tho tents, demanding gun-
powder, food, money, and such of our personal property an took
their fancy. But by far tho greatest number crowded round our
dragoman, in whose iiands we had left the whole matter, simply
commissioning him to get us off on the best terms he could. This,
indeed, was our only course, for it woidd have been madness to
have attempted force against enemies so superior in numbers
and position. Whilst Mohammed was carrjing on a stormy
negotiation with the Arabs, we were allowed, under a strong

t '■

t. i

( )i

I :ri

17(]

llEMABKABLE ADVENTURFp.

guard, to visit the Doir, another very fine monument of the
aneifnit city.

On returninf^, wo f'onnd our unwelcome > isitors more insolent
iind exorbitant than ever in their demavids, which amounted iu th«»
whole to upNMUxis of a lumdrod pounds. They had already levied
considerable contributionH from the dragoman, in the shape of
sugar, cotVee, biscuit, etc. ; and one of our party, refusing sonu
gunpowd(?r to an Arab who asked for it, had a knife put to his
throat by the ill-favoured ruffian. The IVlIaheen wero now gettinir
irritated bv our resistance to their extortion ; and when our dinn( r
was about to be served, a number of them gathered tumultuously
round the fires, and declared that not a dish nhould be removed
imtil we hud given them a full meal or an equivalent in money.
Our wliole stock of provisions would not have been enough for a
third of their number ; and m they pertinaciously insisted on thtsii'
demand, we were at last obliged to pay them thirty dollars (abo it
(]/.) for permisaion to eat our own dinners. As K)on as they hal
receiv(3d this, tlie earnest of a richer harvest which they hoped en^
long to reap, they set up a shout of triumph, marched in disorderly
procession round the camp, firing olT their pieces in the air ; and
then, for the most part, dispersed nmong the neighbouring caverns
and tombs, leaving, how(:ver, a guard of some sixty men to watcli
our movements, and see that we did not give them the sli{> in tlie
<lar!v. These desperadoes amused themselves during tli»3 niglit
with tiring ever o\ir tents, doubtless with the design of frightening
us into surrender ; and several bullets passed through the canvas
that shelt^n'ed me and I wo of my jom[)anions.

Wo had taken care to collect our camels on the previous even-
ing, and before dayliglit we began to strike our tents and pack oiu*
baggage. The gmirds ofl'ered no opposition to these procecxlings,
but thev sent word of tlicm to tlio rest of the band ; and soon from
every hoh^ in tite rocks around us issued troops i>f excit«.(l

AN ADVENTURE AT I'ETHA.

177

eveii-
'k our

ixeitcil

Bedouins. It was a wild and strikin^^ sight prestaited by thes<'
children of Ishmael, as they clambered down from their reHtiiij:^
places, and swarmed through the ravines, their garments streaming
behind them, and the air resounding with tlieir yells of defiance.
Our poor dragoman was instantly beset by a furious throng, and
wo watched the conference with no little anxietv. Once or twice
ii rush was marie to the nxkni tliat encircled our cum}Mng ground,
and then we fully expectr^d tliat a volley wan about to be poured
in upon us ; but, through the care of a wjttchful IVovidence, our
adventure liad no such tragical finale. In this we were more
fortunate than a party of Americans, who three months previously
liad visited Petra, and, refusing to comply with the domiuids of
the Fellaheen, had been Ih'ed u]X)n from those veiy r^jcks with
iatal result; for their cook was killed, and one of themselves
dangerously wounded in the leg. 'llu; success of th*^ Arabs on
that (X!caaion had probably emboldened them in their atta/^k u})on
us; and, indeed, one of their number, a pov/tirful, dark-looking
f<.4low, repeatedly IxMisted that it was he who had shot the Anujri-
<an cook, and that he was quitt^ ready to serve our dragoman in
the same wav.

This dragoman really b';haved tK^.mirablr. Althougli menaced
by half a dozen gun-barrels presenti'd at his p(Tson, Ik^ kept his
temper, laughed and joked with his captors, and exerted his utmost
effoits on our behalf. At last he sent us word that we might move
on, for he had satisfactorily arranged all matters. Jhit his permis-
sion to depart was valueless, unendorsed by our watchful guards.
Xo soo'T did they p Tceive us advancing towards the edge of tlie
|>lateau, than a crowd of volunteers scrambled over the rocks to
join those who were already in possession of th(* pass; and as our
lending camel entered the narnnv gorge, half a dozen brawny
ravages leaped down before it, put their guns to the driver's breast,
and efleetually stopped our further progress, for the path was only

;/ :

I. J ■ ^

■l>

«l

>« ^1

, !

■i;

II, i

178

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

wide enonp^h for one camel to pass at a time. At the same moment
the Bedouins, perched on the cliffs around us, lighted their matches
and levelled their guns at our heads, threatening us with a volley
if we advanced another step. It seems that our dragoman liad
agreed to pay three hundred and ninety-three dollars as our
jansom, but the Fellalieen insisted on twenty-seven more, and
<leclared that unless all their demands were at once conceded, they
would plunder our baggage and strip ourselves to the skin, killing
any one who resisted ; and, by way of showing that they were in
earnest, they actually did seize two guns belonging to a gentleman
in our paity. Under these circumstances we had nothing to do
but to submit, and so we reluctantly bade the dragoman pay down
tlie sum of four hundred and twenty dollars, amounting, in Englisli
money, to Sbl. No sooner whs this done, than word was passed along
the rocks to let us go free ; our late guards blew out their matches,
released the caiucl-driver, and, giving us a parting shout of triumph
and derision, scampered back to their companions to claim a share
of the spoil which their hostile attitude had been mainly instru-
mental in extorting from us. We, you may be sure, lost no time
in availing oursiilves of their permission to depart, nor did we
breathe freely till we had once again placed Mount Ilor betw(xii
ourselves and the cut-throat thieves of Wady Mousa.

On reaching Jerusalem, a statement of this outrage was laid
befoi*e the Tiirlvish authorities; but tliough we met with plenty of
(jtiicial symj)atliY, it was as unproductive as the same commodity
appears to be in placea nearer home. Indeed, I should think any
governor would iind it too difiicult a matter to chastise these
Jiedouins, entrenched as tliey are in the impenetrable fastnusses el
3[ount Seir.

!n conclusion, I would advise all travellers contemplating u vi.sit
to IN'tra, to go under the protection of the recognised and powerful
Sh< ilvh Hussein, or not to go at all; but at the same time, i <*ttu

nent
tchea
ollev
I had
, our
, and
, thcv

;re in
leman
to di)

down
IngUsli
i nlou);-
atches,
riumph
sbarc

instni-

time
id w<'

CtWCCll

las laiil
icnty of

1 mod it y

lik any
tboso

'stiot* ol

u vi.sit
l(»weri'iil
L 1 can

AN ADVJiNTUUE IN RUPERTS LAND.

171)

assure them tliat the wonderful monuments of tliis ancient city
would well repay oven such sacrifices and ex|K3iiso as >vo were at in
our successful attempt to become acquainted with thorn.

AN ADVENTURE IN RUPERT'S LAM).

Deep in the uninliabitod wihls of Nortli Amorica, more than a
thousand miles beyond the Canadas, there stands a solitary outpost
of the Hudson's Bay Fur Company. It is a bleak, desolatt) lookin;r
l)art of Rupert's Land, so far removed from the liauuts of civil izcd
man that its inhabitants hear only twice a year from their frirn-ls
" at home." This outpost consists of four small l()<j;-houscs, or huts,
the doors and windows of which are of the smallest jxissibh^ size
and number. A rude stockiule surrounds the whole, and an nn-
})retending ila^stalf rises in thc^ midst. The trader in charge calls
it the " fort," and the custom of the countrv bears him out in \\\U
misnomer. Perhaps the stoekado and tlu* ilaijjstalV, aetinjj^ on vivid
imaginations, may have suirfijf'sted the titU^ No p^uns frown from
the mmparts of this wooden fortress of the? north ; no mailial music
echoes in the yard ; and the garrison eoasists of the commandant,
lour men, an Indian hunter of the Chi])pewyan tribe, and one Indian
woman.

All around the fort, from I^abrador to the Paeifie, from Canadji
to the Polo, is a widc^ wilderness, almost t^'nantless, and wrap})e<l in
tlie deep solitudii with which it was invested at creation. A few
scattered tribcis of Indijins thrro are, and wihl beasts in plenty, but
no symptoms of civilized m>in, save the wooden forts K\i the fur-
traders, which ani scattered over the country few and far between,
la this region, winter reigns suprmie for nearly eight nnmths in
the year. The keen winds of the noHh, fresh Jinil bitter from tho

-. \

■r

180

REMARIvABLE ADVENTURES.

1
4.

ice-fields of the arctic seas, hold their revels here in exulting fury.
Snow is the prominent feature in the scene. The land is wrapped
in it ; the housetops are weighed down by it ; the branches of the
surrounding pine-trees are laden with it, and heavy wreaths curl
over and cling to the adjacent cliffs. It blocks up the windows,
and fills the keyholes, and tips each individual post in the stockade
with white. Everything large is covered with it and rounded in
outline ; everything small is buried, overwhelmed, obliterated with
snow.

Tnily it is a desolate spot, yet not so cheerless as description
would lead one to suppose. Wherever man plants his foot, he finds
that a benevolent God has provided for the comfort and happiness
of his creatures. Even here it will be found that there are plea-
sures which cast a warm glow over the fur-trader's life and render
desolation less dreary. The following incident, extracted at random
from the outpost diary, shows that life at Stoney Creek is not witli-
out interest and amusement.

One bright and sparkling winter morning, George Wellwood, a
sturdy Englishman of twenty-three, in the service of the fur-
tradere, and commandant at Stoney Creek, proceeded to equip
himself for the chase — in those climates a necessary means of
procuring subsistence. A deerskin coat, trousers of tlio same
jnaterial, blue cloth leggings, mocassins, a fur cap^ formed some-
what like a helmet, an ample shawl round his neck, and he was
complete. Throwing his gun over his shoulder, he sallied forth
towards the little hut ia which his men lived.

"Hidlo! Mike Lynch, are ye there?" he cried, stooping as ho
looked in at the low doorway.

" Ay, ay, yer honour ; jist at your sarvice," answered a hearty
Irish voice from witliin, as its owner drained a large bowl of tea
and sprang to his feet.

" (iet your gun and snow-shoes, Mike ; we'll follow up the det

AN ADVENTURE IN RUPERTS LAND.

ISl

track that was discovered yesterday. Tell the Squirrel to get ready
to go with us, and don't forget your sled. I'll walk on."

In a few minutes George Wellwood was joined by j\Iike and an
Indian, both of whom were tall of stature and stout of limb. The
three proceeded at a rapid pace along the woodcutter's track, which
was well beaten by the men in hauling firewood to the fort In
half-an-hour they reached the termination of the track, and the
little hut of the woodcutters. Here they halted to put on their
snow-shoes.

" They're mighty oonvanient things, to be sure, though rayther
troublesome at times," muttered Mike, as he endeavoured to force
his large feet into the lines of his snow-shoes.

" You'd travel but a short way without them, Mike," said Well-
wood : *' the snow is five feet deep, if it's an inch ; even your k)ng
legs would fail to find bottom."

The snow-shoes, of whose " convanience " the Irishman spoke,
were most unwieldy implements to look at. IMike was a big heavy
man, and was fond of coming out strong on all occasions — two
facts which induced him to w^ear a headdress with a pair of horns,
and to select the largest pair of snow-shoes at the establishment.
They were fully six feet long by a foot and a half broad, and
supported their burly wearer well on the surface of the snow, but
proved rather troublesome at times among the thick bushes.

" Now then. Squirrel," said Wellwood, " do you strike off to the
left and make a long circuit towards the blasted pine on the hill-
top : you know the place. Mike and I will bear away to the right,
and if we don't start the moose we'll meet you there."

Mike threw the line of his light shnlge across his shoulder and
followed his master into the forest. The country through whi(!h
thoy passed was pretty level, and comparatively free i'rom under-
wood, so tliat they proceeded ra))i(ll} and with ease over the snowy
waste. The air was perfectly culin, antl the frost intense, causing

i .ii

t ■ !

lip!

,•(.

! '1

■ !Ui

182

TIEMARKABLE ADVEXTURER.

I ■ .

the breath, which issued like steam from the hunters' moutlis, to
congeal U[)on their hair and breast in the form of hoar-frost.
Threading their way among the trees and bushes, and managing
their cumbrous shoes in a way tlmt proved them to be accom-
plished backwoodsmen, Wellwood and his man traversed many a
mile of ground without seeing a single deer-track. Towards the
afternoon they entered a more thickly wooded country, and turning
to the left, round the base of a little knoll, they emerged upon
a small stream whose waters hud long ago been frozen to the
bottom.

" Ha ! Mike, we'll make use of the river here, and get a littlo
roli(^f from our snow-shoes."

" It's a road o' nature's own raakin'," remarked Mike, disencum-
bering his f(;ct, " an' a veiy purty one too ; jist like a marble
pavement."

In a few minutcb they were striding over the hard coating of
snow that lay upon the frozen stream.

While Wellwood and his companion were thus pursuing their
way, the Indian pushed forward in a devious circuit towards the
l)Uu'o of meeting at tlie blasted pine. For several hours he did not
halt, or slacken tlie pace at which he had set out. Threading his
way among the bushes with a rapidity and ease that showL'd ho
had been accustomed to troa<l tlie forest from infancy, turning
swiftly aside when any obstacle presented itself, and insinuating
the unwieklly snow-sho(»s through litthi openings in the underw(;od
liiat seemed to bid defiance to his further progress, or treading
down by main forc(> the snmller bushes in his i)ath, while his keen
eye turned restlessly on all sides, noting every object in tlie way,
the SipiiiTol travelled steadily until the sun was h)w, but discovered
no fresh tracks of deer. Then, turning sharp to the right, he made
for the place ol rendezvous. Suildonly his eye >vas arrested by
tracks in the snow : a glance s^ifliced to show that they were those

AN ADVENTIIKE IN RUPEUT 8 J.ANI).

183

S!"

of an old moose and two young ones. Tbrowinjjj his gim into tlio
liollow of liis left arm, tlio Squirrel proceeded more cautiously,
i'ollowing the tracks wliicli led over the suniniit of a small
eminence.

Ascendinj^ this, he was about to pusn clown the opposite side,
when he stopped short, and his eye glistened as he gazed before
him, for down in the hollow beyond stood the objects of his desire
— a magnificent moose, as largo as a horse, with her two young
ones beside her. The distance, however, was too great for a shot,
and the Indian was endeavouring to approach neun^r, when a litth'
])ufl' of white smoke burst from the bushes on his riglit. It was
followed by a loud report ; one of the young animals leapt its own
height from the ground, and the next instant its iife-blood dyed
the snow, while the other two sprang up the bank, over the brow of
the hill, and disappeared, followed by two well-inte/ided, but ill-
directed shots from (ireorge Wellwood and Mike Lynch, v.ho dashed
forward in pursuit.

So hot was Mike in the chase, that he totally forgot the sledge,
which was bounding and tumbling behind him, until the line got
twisted round his snow-shoes and brought him head foremost to the
ground. Now, Mike's position was not enviable. lie had come
down with such a plunge that his head and shoulders, and indeed
the greater part of his body, wen buried in the snow, from which
he struggled in vain for along time to extricate himself; while his
projecting feet and legs, the enormous snow-shoes, the tangled
lines, and the overturned sledge, wriggh^d helj)lessly on the surface.
1 )eep down did he plunge his hands, but no bottom could be found ;
tlie yielding snow offered no resistance to the thrusts of his arms as
he endeavoured to raise himscdf, and the shoes to which his feet
were attached prevented him from drawing his legs under him. At
length, by dint of beating the snow hard in his violent struggh'S, he
succeeded in gaining a sitting posture, in which he remained for

a I'll

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f ■ ■

184

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

nl)ont five minutes, clearinj^ the snow out of his eyes, neck, wrists,
and Iinir, and growling all the while in an undertone at his
misfortune.

Having gathered himself up, he buried the young deer to protect
it from the wolves, picked up his gim, which was crammed to th(!
muzzle with snow, and started off in pursuit of his companions.
But they were far distant now, following hard upon the track of the
deei'. A stom-chaao is proverbially a long one, and Mike Lyncjh
found it so upon this 0(!casion. The sun sank, and the shades of
night soon covered the forest with the deepest gloom. A few shoot-
ing streaks of the aurora, however, played athwart the northern
sky, serving to render darkness visible, and to light the lonelv
traveller on his way. The track of his comrades guided him, but
hour after liour passed and still he failed to overtake them. At
length, just as he was beginning to vent his impatience in grum-
bling, a bright flame sprang up before him, and a shower of sparks
flew over the tree tops. In another minute the Irishman was
seated before the blazing camp-fire, filling his very short anil
intensely black little pipe — a necessary indulgence in these regions
— wifth tobacco, while his master quizzed him in regard to his
performances as a tumbler, and the Squirrel prepared supper.

The second young moose had been overtaken and killed, and
large steaks thereof were now roasting before the blaze. Mike'.^
*;ledge was niq)aeked ; a tin kettle was stuffed full of snow and
placed on the lire, and t<'a was speedily produced.

It is a bright, cheery, beautiful, sparkling thing, a winter encamp-
m(^nt in the snow. The camp fire was a blazing pile of logs, five
i'eet long, tlu'ee feet broad, and two feet deep. It was largo enough
to roast an ox whole, yet it was not more than sufficient to warm
the atmosphere of the encampment. So intense was the frost tliat
Mike Lynch, standing one foot distant from the glowing heap of
logs, and smiling blandly at his short pipe as he strove to light it

rials,
his

otect

lioiis.
)f the

ies of
sUoot-
rthern
lonely
n, but
1. At

sparks
n was
t and
egious
to hia

L •

Id, and
iMike's

^w and

Lcauip-
Ls, fivi'
tnougli
warm
ist tliat
^eap of
iglit it

AX ADVENTURE IN RUPERT S LAND.

185

withont at tlio same time lighting the point of his noso, felt liis
back freezing while the front of his trousers was being singed. A
spreading pine had been selected as a shelter for the night. From
the foot of this the snow had been cleared by the hunters, who
extemporized shovels out of their snow-shoes. The ground was
laid bare for a space of fifteen feet in diameter. The sides of this
hole formed walls six feet high, of the purest white. The fire was
kindled at one end, the blankets of the party were spread out at
the other, and the flat pine branches formed a thick impenetrable

ceiling.

How that fire did roar, to be sure ! The forked flames licked
and curled round the thick logs with a glib and hungry ferocity
that would have led one to suppose fire was a starved element in
these cold regions, and seldom had the luck to grasp so large a
meal. The smoke curled upwards in thick volumes, and vanished
in the dark night. Tlien a lurid sheet of flame cleft the rolling
mass asunder — another and another fork flew up, scattering the
smoke right and left until the blaze obtained the mastery and
turned the snow into sparkling silver, and everything else into deep
red gold, while the sparks flew up in myriads, caught upon ilm
branches overhead, and hung there like fireflies, or floated away
into thick darkness. Viewed from a distance, the encampment
looked like a bright and living jewel set in a gn'at field of ebony.

" Now then, Mike, pass the tea, and don't eat too much, else
we'll never be able to waken you. Two hours is all the sleep wo
can afford to take."

Mike groaned — being too deeply engaged with venison steaks to
be able to reply — and handed the tin can of tea to his master.
Wellwood drank the refreshing beverage from the lid. Mike and
the Squirrel imbibed, alternately, from the can.

"Squirrel, are ye ready to turn in, avic?" inquired ]Miko, with a
plethoric sigh.

■t

il^

-i:

isn

IlE'iIAKKAIiLK ADVKNTUIJIIS.

The Indian, wlio indiilgcd in tlio tafiturnity of liis race, pvo
forth a sound which might liuvo nrieunt anythin<r, but for the
aecom})anyiup; nod, which {)rovcd it to be afiirmative.

■Mike sighed aj^ain ; knocking the ashes out of his pipe, he co!i-
stnicted a pillow out of a pile of branches and lay down. Tim
Indian stretched himself beside the Irishman, and spread a grec!)
blanket over himself and his comrade, tucked it tight in all round,
imder their feet and over theii* heads, and so they went to sleep
like a long green bolster. George Welhvood followed their
example. The neglected fire soon burned down, burst up once or
twice in a fitful blaze, and finally went out, leaving the camp in
total darkness and in profound silen(3c.

The red man slumbered lightly. At the end of two hours Lc
arose, roused his companions, and blew a lust latent spark, tlia1
bad survived the night, into a flame. Young Wellwood grumbled
a little, as a matter of course, on rising, and was soon ready to
renew the chase. A mouthful of cold tea and a bite of cold venison
were speedily despatched, and, in ten minutes or so, the three
buntei's were gliding rapidly through the woods in silence, whih
the moon shed her soft light on their path and enabled them to
follow the track of the moose deer. But the day had dawned, and
they were beginning to think of breakfast, ere they overtook it.
Wellwood was walking in advance, and was about to pass over the
brow of a small liill, when his eye fell on the object of their hot
pursuit. In a second, tlie report of his fowling-piece awoke the
echoes ; the whistling bullet sped to its mark, and the startled
animal, bounding up the bank, disappeared over the top of a mouml,

" Hurra ! come on lads," shouted the excited sportsman, as lie
daslied forward in pursuit.

*' Ye've missed it," growled Mike.

" The deer is hit," said the Indian, gravely, as he strode aftei
his friends.

tor th(;

he coii-
i. Til."
1 green
, roiiml,
to sleo}>
.1 their
onee or
namp m

)de aftov

AX ADVKSTURM IN HUPEHT'S LAND.

187

The Squirrel was right. On reaching the spot where tht» moo.50
had been Btanding, blood was found on tho snow, and in a quarter
of an hour the animal was again overtaken. It was <»vidently
nuich hurt, for it floundered heavily in tho deep snow. •>.

*' Now then, Mike, bo ready with a second shot," said Welhvood,
I aising his gun. Just as ho pressed tho trigger tho moose stumbled
and disappeared, while a cloud of white snow iiew up into tho air.
liowering his ])ieee, and uttering an exclamation of surprise, he
hurried forward. Suddenly he halted, and Mik(i observed that he
Avas gazing with a look of horror at something Ixjlbre him. Mik*'
was about to advance, but he stopped abruptly, and his blood
curdled in his veins on observing that his young master was stand-
ing on a snow-wreath that curled over the brink of a precipice
several hundred feet deep. He was beyond the cih^o of the clifl",
and the tenacity of the snow alone preserved him froui instant
destruction.

The uncertain morning light caused the snow-plain beneath to
appear on the same level with that above, so that the tleer had
been deceived, and its manjyled remains now lav scattered on th(^
rocks far below. Welhvood had almost shared its fate. His
}X)sition was one of extreme peril. To retreat ba(?kwards was
impossible, owing to the form of his snow-shoes. To turn was
almost equally impossible, for the exertion nec<\'^sary to do so
woiUd in all probability break off tho wreath and hurl him into tho
ya\vning abyss.

" Och, master dear, jump back and kitch me hand," cried Mike,
in a hoarse whisper, advancing cautiously.

Wellwood drew a long breath, made a desperate backward
hound, and fell upon tho snow as he grasped the outstretched hand
of Mike. The effort broke off the mass of snow, which went
thundering down the precipice. So narrow was the escape, that
\\'ellwoai resi ed upon the extreme edge of the cliff, and one of his

1 ••

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

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|50 ■^~

12.5
|22

'■25 1'-^ -^

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►

Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 W^'ST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

! -,
1 ■'■

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188

REMAllKABLE AD\EXTUKES.

snow-shoes dangled over it ; but a tremendous pull from the stotit
Irishman placed him the next moment in safety.

With a deep and earnest voice the young man thanked God for
his deliverance, as he pressed the hand of his faithful servant.
Then the three hunters turned to retrace their steps. The two
young deer were picked up by the way, and the shattered body of
the old one was left to the arctic foxes and wolves that prowl
iiround the lonely outpost of Stoney Creek.

BENIGHTED OX SALISBURY PLAIN.

It was towards the close of the summer season a good many years
iigo. I had started from my home in the weary world-working city,
on a combined ruralizing and sketching expedition, and taken up
my abode for some days at a farming village lying at no great
distance from the declivitous ridge which teiminates Salisbury Plain
at its soiithern limit. The neighbourhood of a barren moor, a wide
heathy waste, with patches of furze or wild thyme, or uncultivated
land of any description, had always more charms for me, as con-
taining more of the elements of the picturesque in landscape, than
those highly cultivated regions where " every rood of ground main-
tains its man," and the rich soil, trimmed like a garden and bright
with the golden grain, keeps the word of promise to the husband-
man. It is on the debatable land, between the wilderness and the
fruitful field, that the artist loves to wander, and tr gather from
either, as the mood of the moment may impel him, or from a
combination of both, those transcripts from the face of ever-
cliangiug nature the successful delineations of which make up the
events and epochs of his existence.

But my trip was ratlier a holiday than a professional excursion.

BENIGHTED ON SALISBURY PLAIN.

1 sought recreation rather than employment, and feeling the
necessity of repose after a period of intense labour pm-sued in s\ntv
of a prostrating nerv'ous affection, which at intervals laid me on the
shelf — I had resolved to unbend myself as much as possible, and
to work no more than just enough to give that flavour to repose
Avhich makes it a luxury. But such resolves are sometimes easier
made than adhered to ; and no man who has ever so little of the
love of nature in him, and the ability ever so humble of per-
petuating some of her variable phases, need calculate upon
remaining doggedly inactive while the cloud-shadows dapple the
outstretched weald> the blue smoke curls up througli masses of
dense foliage, the brooks run riotously cascading between their
precipitous banks, or the distant hills loom grey and transparent
through the haze of sunshine, or deepen to indigo darkness beneath
the gathering storm — and he looking on. So it came to pass that
I had worked enthusiastically instead of being superlatively indo-
lent, and had filled my portfolio with sketches, my note-book with
memorandums, and my head with ideas — reaping at the same time,
at least so I flattered myself, all the benefits I had anticipated
from the change of air and employment.

One afternoon, when the gorgeous rain-clouds had eclipsed tlie
cirri which for some days had held possession of the upper sky,
and, piled up from the horizon to the zenith, showed like the work
of Titan architects, in lavers of massive blocks molten and fervid
with dazzling flame-light, I sallied forth, after an early and sliglit
refection, armed with camp stool, walking stick, portfolio, and
water colours, to the high table land of the interminable plain. It
is only in such a situation, where the sky comes down upon the
earth without any intervening objects upon the edge of the horizon
to break the line of contact, that one can get tlie best view of
f'loudland in its integrity ; and a view on a broad level down,
inland, such as Copley Fic;ldiug has painted perhaps a thousand

^ :

,|.,J i\

§ :

100

UKMAKKAHTiK ADVP-NTTinKS.

linirs, is vory (lilUVront from ono inidor n, luarinc Kky, >vliorc ilio
oliaraotor of IIk^ clonds is loss inarked aiul Htrikiiifr, <'Voii if a
ha/v wall of <^\lial!ilion doi^s not obacuro their a|)|iaront junclion
with tho wators. I'^roin tinio to tiiiK* 1 |»itchod my stool, aiul did
my best io wnsh in somo of tlio ohnracttM'islic, fiky-])it'tiiroH which
till(Ml mo with a«hiiiratioii. Such ossays wcro iKMHMSHarily very
hrii^f. from the constant ciiJvni;-o in tho mass(^s which w<'r(\ the
suhj(vt of stndy ; and aftiM' each trial J Malkod forward to vary the
sceuo on th(* liorizon line, and not without a hoi>(^ that a distant
view of Ston( h<m«xo, of the kx^ality of wliicn 1 was ignorant, might
.Mj)|>oa.r and he brought into a sketch.

As the day prew ohhyr and (he sun declined, the oharact«?r of the
(^louds alteix^d vvondn>usly. Tho white gh^aming mas8(\s deepened
into an ominous |nir[)le, and b(Mieath some of thorn, towards the
W(\st, long streaming bars of iiery crimson, alternated with stripn of
vivid omtM'ald gnxMi, nuule a new and more attractive spoctaclc.
which bixmght mo again to a stand-still. J may have sat an liouroi-
mon^ in the att^>mpt to ii\ upon paper, not so much the actual
a])|>oarjmce, but the ideus winch this magnilicent contrast of colour
originated in n\y mind. I was not awar(\ until 1 had done nearlv
all that it was in my power to do towards that object, that tho niglil
was rapidly approaching ; nor, if 1 had been, should I have felt th(^
least nueasiness on that score, it not having entered my head for a
moment that there could be any difliciilty in finding my w.iy home
again, ^^'hen I rose, however, and looked around, tho drear},
dark aspect of that side of Uie heavens to which my back had been
turutHi so long thrilled mo with a sensation the reverse of pleasant ;
and. making what haste I could in packing up my materials, I
resolved io com^X'nsate by smart walking for the delay, and to lose
no time in retracing my steps. But, already, I was not exactly
certain of the diivctiou in which I had come, having neglected, in
Scuttling my jxnnt of view, to note any particular object^ such as a

hknkjhi'k I) (IN HAiisniiJY riAiN.

101

mono or liillook, llml iTn*;:!;li1 hnvv MrM'ved inHlnad ol" a <lin>rlinf,^ pont.
Slill I liiirw ilint, by jm)co<Mlin^ Hontli, I niiiHt come, in u couph* of
'noui'H or Ri>, to Hom(» ]i(irt of tlio ri(l;j;o vvhcnro \ rnnhi oMsily (iKccr-
liiin my oxacl [)osi1ion ; and no IVmum, only a nli^lil in(>riili('afion, as
iho vision of tlio toa lablo at ilio fHiinbonso rosolo my imn;,':'>rt1ion,
cmssod my inin(i. I wns obliged to stand still for a b'W minntPH,
Itocanso I had Ihmmi Kittiji«j^ cross- b«p:LC<'d, and iho b'^ vvbicb luid
ncrvrd for an ojiscl bad " ilio piiis and ncrdlrs," and would not.
Mlb)\v mo to movo. Wliilo I tbns stood waitinj^ pnrmission to start,
;i fow (b'opa of rain ramo tlmmpinj^ liko bnllcts npon my portfobo,
;ind thoy jn'ovod to bo tb(5 boralds of a storm wliicli was not lon^
in approarhinfi:, and wbicb poiniMl its unrelenting fury upon my
nnshelterod bead.

It gnnv dark apace: there was still, liowever, a lonp^ Mood-n^d
lino visible in the west; and, notinpj the spot M'here I supposed the
snn bad ti^one down, and <'ttlcidatinf( tliat, it being now the middle
of Au<2;uKt, be bad sv.i two or tbree points north of due west, 1 turned
my face resohitely towards the south, and having buttoned up to
tlio ehii), and recovered the use of my bmb, pusbed forward as fast
as I was able.

Salisbury Plaiu, as many of my rs3ader8 are quite aware, is any-
tliing but a jdain, in tbo pbiin sense of tbat word. What it may
appear as a whole, when viewed from a balloon, 1 don't pretend to
say ; but tliat part wliicb was the scene of my erratic exploit was a
succession of wavy ridges, bills, and liollows, witb now a terrace of
(able land, and now a valley of corresponding extent. This
variation in the surface rendered it extremely dillicult for me to
pci-severe correctly in the truck 1 bad to tak(\ Upon arriving at
the summit of one of the ridges, after truverning its subjacoi^
hollow, I bad always to correct some small deviation tbat 1 bad
made from the straight route. As long as any colouring remained
ia tbe sky wberc tbe sun bad gone doNMi, tbis correction was easy

*■ f* H

' SI i-

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U I

1:1

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UERIAUKABLE ADVKNTUUES.

enough ; but by-und-by, when the rain rushed down like a universal
waterspout, tlio gloom gi-cw deeper; the red light vanislKnl; and
on all sides alike a wall of descending water through which the
sight could not penetrate for ii huridrcd yards, seemed to sliutme iu.
and impressed me with the notion that I might have been the sole
living being left in a world devoted to a second deluge, every other
tlionght being absorbed in the fearful tempest that wtis rattling
about my ears.

I knew now, well enongh, that I did not know in what direction
I was going, and I was fast becoming nervously and painfully
excited. Still I pushed on all the faster, unwilling to believe that
I had lost my way and was wandering at the direction of chance,
llesolving not to think of disaster, lest such thoughts should give
rise to apprehension, I called to mind all the pleasantest things
that had happened to me in my whole life ; and, like the rustic in
the churchyard, who is described as " whistling aloud to keep Iiis
courage up," banished for a time the sense of present calamity by
that of past joys. But now I began to feel overpowered with
fatigue, and, in spite of the heavy rain, parched with thirst. 1
was wet through to the skin, but yet my mouth and tongue were
dry as sand paper ; and when I rubbed the latter against my palate,
I heard a grating sound like the croaking of a frog. I sat. myself
down upon a large stone of some tons weight, and drank up tlic
rain-water which had collected in the hollows of its surface, and
which, in the fast-fiilling storm, were refilled as fast as I drained
them. The draught refreshed me; and though it quenched my
thirst, it did not and would not moisten my mouth for more than u
moment.

Suddenly, as I sat staring dreamily into the haze of watery shafts
that shot furiously into the ground, I heard the heavy squashy
thump of a feorse's feet approaching ; and a moment after the magni-
fied apparition of a powerful wliite horse, urged to full and desperate

IJENIGIITED ON «ALISBUUY PLAIN.

193

Lversal
I; and
ell tlio
mc iu.
le solo
y other
rattling

ircctiou
ainfully
jve that
chance,
ikl give
t things
rustic in
keep liis
imity by
•ed with
hirst. 1
ue were
palate,
It myself
up the
ice, and
drained

|hed my
than a

shafts

isquashy

magni-

jsperate

gallop by a brawny yeoman, who at every leap dug the rowels into
liis side, burst into view. Instinctively I ran to intercept the
horseman, and, shouting with all my force, endeavoured to bar his
way. The rider, however, never drew rei» , and had not the horse
swerved from his direct path, I should have been borne down and,
perhaps, slain upon the spot. As it was, the fellow struck at me
savagely with the butt end of his heavy whip. I felt the whiflf and
wind of the blow, which would have dashed out my brains had it
tiiken effect ; but ere I could look round to remonstrate, both horse
and rider had vanished behind the deluging curtain. I saw at
once how it was. The horseman was a farmer who had deserted
the turnpike road for the sake of a short cut through the storm :
he had taken me for a robber, and would probably regale his
neighlours with the narrative of his valour and lucky escape.

I retu "ned to my stone, and sat resting there for a quarter of an
hour, stemming the while with perspiration, tind beginning to des-
})ond with anxiety. Ere I rose, a few vivid flashes or rather sheets
of lightning, followed by distant peals of thunder, lighted up the
scene. I took the momentary opportunity they atforded to look
around. I saw in the distance some mounds which I had not
remarked before, and I knew by this that I had wandered far from
the homeward route. The consciousness of that fact staggered me,
and I knew not what to do. Warned by a cold shivering of my
whole flesh, I rose to go — but where ? That was the question. I
walked forward listlessly, to keep in motion at any rate, if I could
do nothing else. I left my portfolio, the covers of which were
reduced almost to a pulp, on the stone which had been my resting
place, together with my water-colours, the rattling of which as
they swung in their tin case in my pocket annoyed me. The rain
now abated considerably, and the sky grew lighter ; but now a new
phenomenon alarmed me. As I peered upon the sodden ground, in
tlie forlorn hope of discovering some beaten track, however faint,

'it

1 I

:* i

194

llKMAJJKAlU.r'l APYKNTUHKH.

■I

luy noar vi(»w slxMild l)!»v(> ln'on ^icrn. ummoI'ii bii^lii, blomh'dldur;
\\\\o\\ 1 ]<»o]v(m) n \o\\ n)io(»H I'orvMird il >viim nol bo; \m\, niidcr my
1\m>1, an«l ior m yuixl or mo unnind mo, ii \\i\h of n, ^''Jy vod. |
WjvlUod u\ Uw oonlri^ ol" a Moody diso, nud ronldn'l. \ioi onl. ul' i(.
"I nui nol Hni>(M's1ilions,"* I Riud 1o inysolf, " y^- wluil. oiin tliJM
liUMin:" and foi soiuo minnloH I would look \\l 1lu> (>:roiind uo
inoiv. Vol 1 oo\d<l no( rt^rnun lonj^ Tnau loctUiUfj;' — i\u{\ now.
Ih^1\o1u I tlio dim (MtoIo in iho niidsj ol' whioli I walUod mum (»!" h
pnl(> violt^t (S>lonr : tin* Moody ooloin' was p>np. J. liUod timl
liottov. or. \o spoidv nioro oorrtMMly, I dinlikod it \om ilvan i\\o ^iwy
hurt. Ai'tiM* nnoll\(M- inlerval I looK(nl down a^ain, and tho disc
vras of a Ivilliant wdVron : and llion >vhilo .1 jL^azod, oan\o ono t»f
ovimson. nhioU aj^nin do(^non<^d into iho Iwio o( blood. TluMi 1
llionuht. "Am I aU nt <o loso luy sonHosV" and that torrihlt^
a]>prohonsion nlmost oviMvami^ mo,

\\\v,\i oould ] \]o? IVocood in >vha1 din^Mion I would, 1 was as
lik(^ly to go wn>n!;- as right.. Tho rain h.ul woll uigU coastHl:
)>orha]>s it would soon oisaso ontiroly. Why shouKl 1 bo alMrinod?
Aft(^r all it was bnt ])layina- th<^ pjiH of a piokct iu a wot night,
without rations. 1 would stay wh(MV I was, uioviup: about n little
to koop o\\ \ho cM, au<l wait i\u' tho dawn of morning, or tlio
glinuuiTing o( s<nuo star whioh. by nnoaliug its |H\sitiou, should
put uiO iu possession o\' miii(\ 1 ]Mt<'hod uiy *'amp-stool and sat
liowu ; thou I roso agnin, aud marked (>iV a walk of a doz(Mi i^aros.
and uiarohod up au(i do\>u it h^suridv for above an hour. This
oabuod my uorv<uis oxi^itomcnit. and ]uit to iiiglit tho ohaugiui:
ouvhs o( colour iu wliioh I had lately waUuni. Tho wind aroso.
and bh-'w slri^ugly so<m\ after uiiduight, and 1 In^gau anxiously t«'
wateh its etV<et;s up«ui tl.e (^Uuuls above. It was a huig whil'
l>eforc a star a]^peared. and when one gliuuuiTed forth at Uiugth. ii
was a stranger to me: another and another, and still I was none

\\W\\ i'>

lor wy
pmI. I
1, ol' it.

luutl no
\(\ wow.

vj\H ^r n

lUo gory
Uio «lisc
o om^ of
'V\\v\\ \

, 1 was j\s

Ill, rt Uit^^>
iig. or iUo

l\xiouf^H- to

HHNinrTTMH im SMIMIUtUY PIAIS.

ion

llJHtMl IIH iK'loMjriti^r to II hliowii cnllHt i>l llli joll : <||('|I I KlMW \vll«'fr' <||f«

oorfli slur hIkhiM bo, mifl, fonM«'r|in«tiHy, in wlmi (liroffiou \ Ini'l fo
<!•<». I Hoi Inrwnnl nt. oiioo, immI IiimI flio HniiHrndiori ii« I |in»('«'»>(|f(|
1o Hco 1lu» oIoikIw wmrry off, niul tlio NliirR hIiiiio fnrlli in »ill flicir
hnnufy. 1 ro|inF«flfMl 1)io ninun n|tnii wliicli I lind r«'sf(>(l, nn«l bfiiiL":
now in hoHor HpitilH, luul f'oolinjj^ llmf llm worHi wnw jinHf, Kwovoml
my proppi'iy.

I wtilKotl cm wifl) MM nuTfry llinl, RnrpriHcd iuf\ fo?- I\v(» full
ImniM. williont. rfM'of.rniMJnt!; nny nl»jr<'t, yij. ixTfof-Hy fonlidoni lliuf.
\ WHM on llio nfi:Iif. Irnck. 1 luul not tny wnlcli with irio, hut I
i?nM;^ino(l timf it. oonM not 1m» Inr from diiwn, wIhmi I found TnyHolf
in tl»o ('ompntiy of n low Htrn^^linji; nlioop. "(/nri tboHo Hlicop
1)0 luM'o williotif n pliopliord ?" I nslcod inyHolC; nriil lit tli«) tli(Mi;.^lit
1 innnodintolv phontrd -with nil niv niiLcht.

'ri\(» orv WHR lumworod l»v tli(» Iwirlciiif' of a dojj', wliioli T wmm trlnd
ouon|!;h to lionr. As T ('ontinuod slioutinp:, nnd Iho dof^ rodoiiMod
liis noiHo, tbo npiTtnr we rnmlo Roon nrousod tlio nliopliord fnmi ]m
slot^p. At. tirst it npponrod mh thonfjjh tlu* lumi lin<l ariHoii ont of
tlu» p:ronTi<l, n» tlioro wnw nothin;:!; lik«? a luunan liabitation in si[j;bt.
Wo vwmo forward onv(»lo])od in a ooarHo frioz(^ font, a,nd ofirryin;^' a
smidl lautorn in lii« bnnd. T\m bo bold np to my faoo, wbib; with
tlio otbor band bo j»:ras[iod wbat HJiould bavo boon a pjistoral oroolc,
I'ut wns Jin nnd(Miial)lo oakon oud;j;ol of Hknll-Hplittinp^ onpaoity.
llo oxaminod mo from Ik^miI to foot witb tbo iitnioHt dolibonitiori
Mtul vonchalance^ wbilo \\\a wbitc* luiir flnttorod in tlu? wind.
Ap|)arontly satisiiod witb bin Hcrntiny, bo loworod tlio kuitorn, and
said :—

*' Von'vo a bin to zoo tb' stwons, an' ba' loozcd yor wa' —
b(\^nt ot ?"

" I bavo lost my way," I said, " and am tired, and wet, and
hungry to boot."

lit

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30(5

llEMAIlKAnLK ADVKNTt'UKN.

"(\ni'st ya znni Imrd an' l»yoak'n cf H'lik*'," ho wiid, '* an' a zwiV

.)'z

* 1 "

1 oxprosaod my p^rafitmlo, and lio bado mo " oooni awa' '* and UhI
tho way towards Ida slu^ilinji;^.

This was a sort of hoh» in tho Hontliorn Rido of a rather Rt«M'|i
ridgo overlooking ono of the h)w hollows 1 havo already montioninl.
Vi<nv(^d fmm tho oxtorior it lookod lik(^ a h(Mi]) of dried Bods
hardly larj^iM* than an avorapfo hayooek, and mi^ht havo hoen
j>ass(Hl. oven in th(^ daytime, without being reeognised as a huinaii
r(\sid(Miee ; but whcni yon were onee within it, it was u Riiug little
b(Mth enoufT^h, warm, wind-tipht, and woath(T-proof, with a ^im\
drv b(^d on tlu^ stime-walled Rid(\ an old broa<l-bottom(Hl ehair, and
a tire smouldering in a eorner beneath a ehimn(»y that burrowed
through the qarth. Only ono wall was of stone, and that unce-
n\ented ; the others were formed of rough planks. Around them
hung a few bottles and pots of what I supposed were sheep medi-
cines, a dnnlging horn, an old horse pistol and ]>owder flask, and ii
liuge jacl Te. On the table lay a big brown loaf, and from
some, to lUC, undiseoverablo reeess, the slK^phenl produced n huii|)
of fat baeon. He also reached down a drinking horn, and pourim:
cider from a small harvc^st keg, gave it me to drink. Sour as it
was, it ran like neetar down my parehed thnmt. Putting the huoc
knife into my hand, he pointed to the viands, and bade me help
nn'S(^]f. The bacon, however, was uncooked, and I could not
torioli it. 'V\\o old man laughed at my fastidiousness, and said ln^
always at«^ it raw himself. AVhile I made a supper of the brown
bread and <'i(ler, he blew up the sniouldering embers of the fin.
and V(^lunte(M'ed to dry my garments if I would occupy his bed th»^
whil(\ 1 did not snfter him to rep(\at the proposition, but tumbled
into tlie warm nest in double quick time, and in a few minutes was
sound asleep.

Whcni I awoke the sun had been throe or four hours up, aivi

IIRNKJIITKI) ON MAMHIMIUY I'LAIN.

wiiH hIimh'ii^ brilliantly. I \vnH uloiw* ; l»ut tlio Hlirplnnl li.'ul fliicd
my rlollu's rainouHly, and 1 (mi\iM now n'siitn«» llicm with ('(»mfnrt.
In a tVw niiinitcn I jfUiuMJ him in tho hctlKjw, whcrr, with tin? whl of
JMH (loM^, who Itron^ht the piitirntH to him im \w wanted tlirni, hv
waH Imirv in applying nirMlifamcJitH to Honn^ of Ihh Hock who Ht(»o(l
in ikmhI of 8nnh Rorviro. lie voluntcorcd to guid<' me ho fur on my
homeward ronto nn to rrndor further miRtakes impoHKihle, and did
so, leaving his dog m charge of the Hock. I got honn; in time for
farmer Ihirton'a dinn(>r, and greatly relieved the mind of my host
and hostess by my appearance.

When, in the following year, I went to a shecpf hearing in tho
Nime villag(», I met my friend the shepherd at the celebration of
that annual ff\stivity. Though past fourscore, tho man was quite a
child in worldly experii^nco, and retained the childish faculty of
being amused with the vcuiest trifles. I found that my story had
gone the round of the neighbourhood, not without such additions of
the marvellous as pooph) who have but littlo food for thought aro
pi-ono to append to their narratives. I am afraid my second
appearance dissipated some of these wonders : it certainly extin-
guished a very dramatic account of a struggle with a highwayman,
which was got up by the apparition on the white horse ; but,
nevertheless, it conferred a real pleasure upon the solitary of the
plain, who assured me that he had taken care to provide himself
with the means of boiling me a rasher whenever 1 should honour
him with a secoud visit.

■I, if

198

RKMAHKAIlLi: ADVi:XTLRES.

A LEA]^^ YROM A CLREGYMAN'S JOURNAL.

The Christian minister is frequently dejected wlien lie reflects
ui)oii tlie lew visible si;2;ns of success which sometimes attend his
ministry of the word. He may labour with unremitting diligence,
be instant in season and out of season ; yet, to the end that liis
faith and patience may be tried, ho nmy not be permitted to have
any outward proof that God is making him instrumental in tuniiug-
souls fiom darkness to light, and from the power of Satan unto
God. l>ut if on tin's account we relax in our efforts to do good, and
fail to improve every season of doing good which presents itself, we
may let slip the very opportunity by which the Almighty intended
to make known to us that we "were not labouring in vain nor
spending our strength for nought. For ofttimes after a season of
long apparent dearth and darkness, and just perhaps as we had
begun to give up hope, the wilderness suddeidy appears to blossom
as the rose, and the desert becomes fruitful as the garden of the
Lord. By some remarkable instance, it may be, it is made plain
to the patient labourer in his Master's vineyai'd, that God is with
him establishing the work of his hands. And this revelation of
the jMaster's presence with him is, to the Christian labourer, what
a friendly light in the distance is to a traveller, journeying amidst
the darkness of the night through a wild and lonesome country :
he sees the light and takes courage, and feelings of doubt and
despair disperse, even as the gloomy night clouds vanish under the
beams of the rising sun.

Thus was I encouraged in the young days of my ministerial life.
In weak health and in depressed spirits, I had been labouring, ai>
parently without any success, for a lengthened period. No words
of mine seemed strong enouo^h to turn back the swollen tide oi'

A LEAF FKOM A CLEIUJYMAN S JOL'KNAL.

109

wiclvcclnt'ss w}ik'li, like a torn'nt, rolleil down tlio streets of our
town, nnd I was beginning to despair of ever doing a work for God
in snc'h a plaeo; when I was requested to oociipy a pnlj)it in a
neighbouring city for a single stibbf.tli evening. Somewhat un-
Avillingly, I consented to do so, for I was just tiien meditating a
retreat from the ministiy altogether, tliiidving it not impo.>;siblo
that 1 had mistaken my vocation in life.

When the sabbath evening came round that was to find mo

preacliing at D , I well remember debating witli myself long

and anxiously whether I should go or not. It was a dull November
evening ; I had more than four miles to valk, and a cold drizzling
rain was falling. More than once I determined to send some one
else to fill my place ; but while thus in doubt as to wliat I should
do, the words sounded in my years, clearly and solemnly, as if a
spirit had spoken them: "In the morning sow thy seed, and in
the evening withhold not thine hand ; for thou knowest not whether
shall prosper, either this or that, or whether they both shall be alike
good." I hesitated no longer ; but breathing a prayer for help and
utterance, I set forth for 1) .

When I arrived at the scene of my evening's labour, I found but
a very small congregation assembled : the place of worship was
filled with a cold raw fog, through which a few tallow candles
faintly glimmered. The atmosphere was damp and unhealthy as
that of a vault, and seemed to stiike every one who entered with a
perceptible chill. Throwing myself, however, upon the promised
aid of the Holy Spirit, I began to speak to the people the word of
life. Taking for my text the glorious words,- " There is no con-
demnation to them which are in Christ Jesus," I endeavoured to
illustrate and to enforce the following truths — that man as a sinner
was under condemnation ; that this condemnation was of a most
fearful character, and involved in it the most terrible results ; that
man by himself was wholly unable to escape from this condemna-

>. I

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..il

KEMAUKAULE ADVENTURES.

: i^

lion and^ita ronsoqiicnces ; but that God, in the gospel of Ivis Son,
had met humanity in its low estate, had provided a means of eseape
from the terrors of a broken law, and from tlio aecusings of a
guilty conscience ; that ho had established in the world a grand
foundation for tlie sinner's hope, and was well pleased with him
who, casting himself ujx)n this foundation, was desirous of being
saved according to the Divine method.

While I was proceeding with my address, my attention was
forcibly arrested by the appearance of a poor lad, who was stand-
ing or rather crouching in the aisle near the door. He was shiver-
ing with cold, and occasionally, as the wind liowled past the windows
in fitful gusts, he would draw his tattered garments closer round
him to protect his emaciated, sickly looking frame. He seemed
afraid to meet the eye of any one, for once when he found my gaze
fixed upon him, ho immediately cowered, dropped his head upon
his bosom, and did not look up again for some moments. How it
was that I began to lose all thought of the congregation, and to
speak as if that poor boy were my only auditor, I know not, but so
it was : like a magnet he drew my thoughts and feelings towards
himself, and I found myself speaking more emphatically to him
than to any one else. I forgot the cold, dull place of worship in
which I was preaching ; aad even while I was speaking, my heart
earnestly prayed to God to bless the words to the salvation of that
wretched outcast. New thoughts and illustrations came into my
mind, and God seemed speaking through me, more especially to
him who had so forcibly awakened my sympathies. He looked so
poor, so miserable, and withal so desirous of having a word of kind-
ness spoken to him, that at the close of the service I determined
to send for him ; but on looking to the place he had occupied
during worship, I found it vacant : the boy had gone. No one, it
appeared, had observed him but myself; and all the way home my
fancy followed the unknown, apparently friendless lad, wandering

is Son,
esca})0
58 of a

th liini

on wart
s staud-
1 shiver-
wiudowH

^r round
, seemed
my gaze
ead upon
How it
n, and to
ot, but so
towards
to bim
irsbip in
my lieart
[11 of tbat
into my
[ecially to
tooked 80
of kind-
iterniined
occupied
o one, it
[home my
anderiug

A LEAP FROM A CLERGYMAN S JOURNAL.

201

in his \attorcd p^armcnts, through tlio wind and rain of a Novt^mber
night, without a homo to winch to <lircot his wearied stejxs.

I cannot exphiin the cause, but I inwardly felt that night, that I
had been made instrumental in doing good. I was as e(^rtain of it
as if the fact had been announced to me by a messenger from tho
skies ; and I returned to my own field of labour rebuked for my
want of faith, and resolv(Ml to work more zealously, and to exercise
more implicit trust in God. So vivid was tho impression which tho

service at D made upon my mind, that I even used to dream

about it ; and always, as the central figjire in tho dream, was tho
poor boy who had so deeply interested and affected me. Again I
could see him, standing cold and solitary in tho aisle, the very
imago of want and sorrow ; and I woidd sometimes awake with
words of sympathy intended for him upon my lips. On several
occasions, I made inquiries with regard to him of persons who
were likely to meet such as he, but always without success ; and
yet the thought would often occur to me that he and I were des-
tined to meet. We did meet, and under circumstances never^
never to be forgotten by myself.

It was the middle of winter, and the snow was lying deep on
the earth ; when one evening as I was reading in my study, I was
told that a very poor woman wished to speak to me. " She woidd
not come in," the servant said, but would be very thankful if I
could allow her to ask me a question at the door. Upon going to
the door, a most pitiable object met my view. Prostrate upon the
steps, her forehead touching the cold stones, lay the poor woman ;
she was v^ry thinly clad, and seemed almost frozen by the severity
of the winter air. At the sound of my voice, she started and made
a languid attempt to rise, but her strength failed her ; and shivering
with cold she sank down again into a kneeling posture, looking at
me with a mute prayer for compassion and succour. With the
Assistance of my servant^ I carried her in almost a fainting state

■

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f? •

202

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

f-.

into the kitchen, and for a time she remained without power to
utter a single word ; but gradually she recovered through the re-
storatives we employed, and accepted very gratefully some food
that was set before her. Slie had not, however, eaten above a
mouthful or two, before she suddenly recollected the object of her
errand : she burst into tears, and exclaimed, in a voice broken by
emotion, " I didn't come here to beg, sir, indeed I didn't." There
was that in her very wretchedness, and in the large tears which
coursed do^vn her cheeks, which forbade even the thought of her
being an impostor ; and in as kind words as I could use I expressed
my willingness to serve her. She paused for a moment, struggled
with herself to obtain the mastery over the feelings which were
agitating her, and then, in more quiet tones, gave me the following
account of herself.

She was a widow, having lost her husband above five years ago :
she had seen better days, for, while her husband was alive, she,
together with her son, her only child, was enabled to subsist very
comfortai)ly ; but upon his death, ruin and want stared them in
the face, and they were reduced almost to beggary. By dint, how-
ever, of great exertions, she had contrived to keep herself and her
child out of the workhouse, and she was beginning to regard the
futm-e even hopefully ; when her son, just when he was approaching
the age when by his efforts he might have assisted his widowed
parent most materially, ran off to sea. Thus was she deprived of
both husband and child, and left with only penuiy and grief as hor
bitter portion. She followed the prodigal with her tears and
prayers ; but r^ore than two years elapsed without any tidings of
him reaching her. At length, one Sunday evening, while she in
sad loneliness of heart was brooding over his fate and trying to re-
concile herself to the thought of his death, her boy, whom she
still loved with all the depth of maternal affection, notwithstanding
all his waywardness and disobedience, had suddenly presented him-

A U..VP K.OM , c««OVM.Vs .OOK^XAU

^«'f before her and ^a " " ""'"""' ^'^

of I"s past misconduct in the dS T -^ "'""'^l'* ■><> «oro

Ife had been shipHicekd *^ experjenced in his ref,,,,

ca-ne home to n.o in rat iTl T^"' ''^ "'-"^t •' n..w7:
than any mother can wish W,™ *'''''■' '''' '"'« been more

^ t r;^: r r -■^^- -' * ''^^ '^^' "°^ ''-' '^

*-- = I triS to comt; rSot. '"■f^ "" '"'^ " «*-- of
was^hat her son had returned "o he! " '"" ''"^ '»°'' "-"^f"! I

bosom/^fJowSSllry^^
dy>nff. He has been dangeroi ill f ^' ""^ ''""''"« «'^I""-4 is
J am afraid there is no hope of hi 'c"" '"°'' *"" '^ -"""tb. and
almost everytting .e poss^sseJto IS^' ' ^" ^^^^^^ -"b

I took out my purse, with the infn, ? ""* "^''^ssaries."
^-oney, but she i^astily said ''uITm "" "^^'^'"^ ^'^ ^ WAe of
^■" and then, after a short pll f-T^ ^ ""• «^«Wng of you
^be continued : " D^rf^fi^ Chjf''/^^ *-- «o-^ free^'
bad It not been for a sermon h°7 .1 ^"^^^^^^Y told me tha^
";tive land, he might stm w! ^""^ "'? '"= "'»-« bome o hi
It seems, on his wa^ home th«f t TT'^ disobedient and wiW
att^cted by it that he^niS h/l T' ''"''''- ^^ -- -
place of worship. There l^e heard ^ ^ " * ^''' ""'» " ^'^ «
nm to change his course an^^ ,. ^'™°° ^'"''^b determined
borne that ve^ evenW to asl b f ° ^'' "''^^ '''"« ''^ '•omS

"aliped nules and miles. My poor ^"7 . '''""°" *"* I bave
^0 gbid to shake hands with ?W "* ""^^ ''"''* ^e should be

J»t though several have d^e to 17"*^ "^'"'^ ""' ^oes hence
''- gone. -Mother. h/C Xt^' t^^t fr''^" *''«^'

« }ei. At last some one

f '^^fl

■1 ; :-

i . " , ■

;■ i '

;

■ ^

' -: :1

'■m

B;'«

fc'.'i

204

KEMAlUvABLE ADVENTULES.

advised me to come to you, to tell the story I have told to so
many. If you could come and see my dying boy, a mother's best
prayers should ever ascend to heaven for you. We live a little
way out of D ."

" What !" I said, starting with a suspicion that now for the first

time crossed my mind; "and was it in D that he heard the

sermon about which he speaks ?"

" It was indeed, sir. Oh, were you ever there ?'*

" Was it about Christmas time that your poor boy came
back?"

" It was in the month of November, sir: how well I recol-
lect '*

" Say no more," I replied ; " I believe God has sent you to the

one you want at last. I was preaching at D about that time,

and I verily believe I saw your son there."

To describe the mother's gratitude upon my signifying it as my
intention at once to accompany her home, is next to impossible.
I quickly obtained a conveyance, and taking with me a few neces-
saries for the sick boy's comfort, we set off together. On the way
I communed with my own thoughts, and was still, being lost in
wonder at the mysterious ways of Providence. I was yet in a
reverie when we arrived at our destination ; and leaving the con-
veyance in the town, I followed my sorrowing guide to her dwell-
ing. She had prepared me to expect a very miserable place, for
she had been obliged to part with almost every article of furniture
to buy food for her son ; but I think I never entered a room so
chill and comfortless. Not a spark of fire enlivened the rusty
grate ; a feeble rushlight was flickering in the window, and was in
danger every moment of being extinguished by the wind, which
penetrated through the broke a casement, which the widow had
vainly striven to mend with pieces of old newspaper ; and ir the
corner of this abode of wretchedness was a heap of straw, upon

A LEAF FROM A CLERQYMAJ* S JOURNAL.

205

[■

wliicli the dying boy was fust breatliing out liis life. The parish
surgeon was leaving just as I entered, and to him I said with some
warmth, " Is it in a hole like this, sir^ that people, however poor,
ouj^ht to breathe their last ?"

" You must complain to the authorities," he said, not unkindly :
" I can only tell you that I have to see poor people die in worse
places than this, almost every day of my life."

It was quite true ; and in my own immediate neighbourhood, I
had seen people worse housed than even this poor boy was. My
voicf* seemed to touch a cord in the sufferer's heart ; for as soon as
the door was close i, and a rustling in the straw attracted my atten-
tion to the spot where he was lying, I heard him utter, in tones
that went to my very soul, " There is no condemnation to them
which are in Christ Jesus."

I approached the prostrate figure of the poor boy, and for some
moments my heart was too fuU to speak, as I recognised in those
wan and wasted features the countenance of the youth who had so

attracted my attention when preaching at D . His head was

resting upon the arm of a neighbour, \.Lo had come in to keep
liim company during the absence of his mother ; but upon the
approach of the latter, she resigned her post of afifection into her
hands, and parent and child tenderly embraced. I soon saw that
death had marked him for his own, and that even a few hours
would terminate his earthly existence. It was with great difficulty
that he could bring his tongue to utter the words his heart wished
to speak; a hectic flush overspread his countenance, and his
breathing was short and irregular. I sent the kind neighbour
whom we had found with him on our entering, to buy a little wood
and coals ; and with as little noise as possible a fire was quickly
lighted, and began to send forth a cheerful blaze. After having
given him a little wine, I said : " Richard, my poor boy, I am
sorry to see you so ill ; I have thought very much about yon ever

n (I,

SI i.

lit 5

206

IIE3IARKABLE ADVENTUEES.

iti

',4

« .

since I saw you at D , now more than twelve months ago, and

I have often prayed God to bless you."

A smile of blessed calmness, as of the heaven to wliich ho
was going, lit up the features of the dying one, as he replied in a
whisper : *' It is so kind of you to come ; I knew you would, if you
could but be found out ; and mother, dear mother has been so kind
to take so much trouble. I behaved very ill to her."

His mother knelt down and kissed his parched lips.

" But yom* mother, llichard, has forgiven you," I replied ; " and
there is a Saviour more loving and gentle, and more ready to
forgive than the tenderest mother who ever watched by a sick
bed."

" Yes, sir, I know there is ; I know there is," he repeated witli
great emphasis. " Thank you a thousand times for telling mo
about him in. a way that I could understand :" and then, to my
grateful surprise, he repeated the pith of the discourse I had
delivered at D .

" Oh, how I prayed that night, sir, as I was going home to ask
mother's pardon ! Once I felt almost inclined to turn back and
not go home; but then there sounded in my ears the words,
* There is no condemnation to them which are in Christ Jesus ;'
and so I knelt down in a field near to where mother was living
then, and prayed to God to have mercy upon me, and give mfe a
new heart ; and I have often thought since, sir, that God's recep-
tion of the sinful wasn't unlike mother's receiving of me ; for she
didn't mention anything about the past, except to forgive me for
it, and to encourage me for the future."

" Yes, Eichard, God meets his penitent and prodigal ones when
they are a great way off, and clothes them in royal robes ; and his
angels in heaven rejoice over the repentance of a sinner." ,- 1

A violent fit of coughing prevented for awhile any further con-
versation ; but upon its subsiding, he said, in a painful whisper :

A LEAF FROM A CLEKGYMAN S JOURNAL.

207

** You have come, sir, to see me die. Do not weep, mother ; it's
all for the best, and we shall meet again where men iiunger no
more, nor thirst any more, and where God wij^es away all tears
from our eyes. It seems hard to part now ; but we shall hereafter
see that it was for the best — for the best," he repeated.

The night winds howled dismally past the lattice, and shook the
frail walls of the room in which a soul, redeemed not with things
corruptible, but with the precious blood of Christ, was awaiting its
dismissal to the enjoyment of the heavenly inheritance ; and in the
pauses of the storm the dying boy went on : "I used to think, sir,
when I was at sea, that the wind howling hke that was the angry
voice of God rebuking me for my ingratitude and sinfulness. When
I was shipwrecked, and was clinging to a mast for my life, the
wind howled like that, and I expected to be lost here and in ■'he
world to come ; but, praise be to God, he has made me feel it to
be a faithful saying, that Christ came into the world to save sinners,
and that in him there is no condemnation."

" And do you feel, Richard, that Christ is with you now ?" I
asked.

*' Yes, sir," he replied, " I feel him underneath my soul, holding
it up hke mother's arm is holding my head now."

" His arm, my dear boy, is an everlasting one," I said ; " you
cannot slip through that, and —

* He will present your soul,
Unblemished and complete,
Before tlio glory of his face
With joys divinely great.' "

I read and prayed with him, and committed his soul to the keep-
ino- of a faithful and merciful Creator. His faith was fixed upon
the Eock of Ages, and a sweet assurance of faith had been given
him ; he had the witness of the Spirit within himself that he was
born again, and reconciled to the Father of spirits. I could not but

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REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

gratefully thank the Giver of all good for permitting me to witness
a scene like this, and for making my feeble labours a blessing to
this poor boy's soul.

Being determined to spend the night ^vith him, I went out, and
sent tlie conveyance back with a message that I should not return
home that night : and upon my re-entering the widow's abode, her
son had dropped into a deep and quiet slumber. We stood silently
watching him, believing that he was sinking into his last sleep.
Anything more solemn than the chamber of the dying there cannot
be on tills earth of ours : the death-bed, be it where it may, in the
cottage or in the palace, is a spot round which our tenderest and
most solemn thoughts and feelings gather. To this hour, some of
my deepest feelings stand associated with that night of watching
by poor Richard's dying bed. Towards morning he awoke, and
said in an altered voice, " Mother, where are you ? I cannot
see you."

His mother knelt down and supported his fevered head upon
her arm.

" Is the minister gone, mother ?"

"No, Richard, I am here," I said, gently drawing my hand
across his forehead, upon which the dews of death were thickly

rising.

:.&

" How the wind roars ! mother ; it has put out all the light !"
Alas ! it was death's blindness that was taking hold upon him.

" Richard, my dear boy, there is a world where they need no
candle, neither light of the sun : there is no night there, Richard."

" No," he replied, with startling energy, " the Lsmb is the light
thereof."

He now laboured fearfully for breath, and more thau once
I thought the vital spark had fled. Suddenly he became quite
calm, drew his hand from mine, and lifted his arms in an attitude
of prayer ; then in words that, for their strength of tone, seemed

AX ADVENTURE UPON EXMOOR.

209

mther to belong to the living than the dying, he cried out, " There
is NO condemnation." And fell back on his mother's bosom and died
there.

AN ADVENTUKE UPON EXMOOK.

Reader, have you ever seen Exmoor ? If you have, it will need
no description ; but for the benefit of those who do not know it, 1
will endeavour to give some general outline of the country. Ima-
gine, then, to yourself a vast common, extending on one side as far
as the eye can carry, and on the others bounded by copses and
gently undulating fields, together with pasture lands, as rich as the
most enthusiastic yeoman could desire. When you are fairly in the
middle of the moor, not a habitation of any sort can be seen : bleak
and inhospitable, with its surface covered with fern, heather, and
grass, and not even a tree to afford shelter from the cold winds, it
offers but a poor abode for the night to the unwary traveller, who,
as not imfrequently happens, may chance to have lost his way in
the dense mists that are so frequently sweeping over it. To a
person who is on any of the high points of the moor, there appears
sometimes a most curious phenomenon : though enveloped on every
side by the thickest mist, he may look down and see the surround-
ing fields quite clearly, lighted up by the rays of the sun, which fall
upon them through the overhanging fog. This, however, needs
rather to be seen than described ; and I should certainly advise
any one that had sufficient leisure, and was within a practicable
distance, to run down for a few days to inspect the delicious beauty
of the towns and villages of North Devon, as well as the wilder
and perhaps, to some, less inviting scenery of Exmoor. But now
let me begin my tale.
One fine morning in August, in company with my friend

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KEMAKKABLE ADVENTUKES.

Thornton and his landlord, an old farmer with whom I was Rtayinf^,
I left the little village of North Molton to spend a day at the beau-
tiful watcrinn; phiccs of Ijynmouth and Lynton. The first three
miles of our journey were along a road, on one side of whicli lay a
hilly common covered with the purple heather, then in full bloom
on the other, by the most beautiful woods, so lovely and picturesque
in their tints of hazy green, that I am afraid it would have hardly
pleased the ears of the more imaginative and poetical to have heard
them styled by our old companion under the more technical deno-
mination of " fox covers." My friend kept amusing me with tales
of the different hunts he had had after foxes started by Lord Ports-
mouth's hounds in these sylvan retreats, till we came to the edge of
bleak and dismal Exmoor, where the mist was so intense that we
were obliged to put on our macintoshes, which we had taken the
precaution to buckle to our saddles before starting. By keeping
along the road which winds across the moor, we got to one of its
highest points. Gradually we left the mist behind us, as we
began to descend the almost precipitous road that leads into
Lynmouth.

Arrived here, we put our horses up at the Ljudale Hotel,
which I would recommend in the highest terms to all travellers
and tourists. We then proceeded to inspect the beauties of the
village, wliich were quite new to me, as well as to lave our bodies
in the cool waters of the Bristol Channel ; and so returned to din-
ner \\ith our appetites considerably sharpened by a ride of sixteen
miles, a short constitutional, and a bathe. After the conclusion of
our meal we agreed to go to Lynton, where we saw all the lions of
that beautiful little spot. Seven o'clock in the evening came, and
found us gathering up the reins in our hands preparatoiy to
mounting our horses for the homeward ride. Half an hour along a
narrow path, above a deep precipice, brought us to the most beau-
tiful of all the places we had as yet visited, Waters* ]\Ieet. Here

AN ADVENTUKE UPON EXMOOR.

211

nresque
3 hardly
^e heard
il deno-
ith tales
rd Ports-
3 edge of
that we
aken the
r keeping
one of its
IS, as we
3ads into

the almost deafening roar of the conflicting torrents, the spray
dashed from rock to rock and tree to tree, together with the over-
hanging boughs which by their dark-gi'cen foliag:e form a sort of
roof, are all calculated to inspire the mind with a love of the beau-
tiful and picturesque. Winding along a path surrounded on all
sides by the most magnificent scenery, wo at last reached the out-
skirts of Exmoor. Here, as wo stopped to cast our farewell glance
upon the foaming waters of the Lyn, which lay beneath us, Thorn-
ton suddenly exclaimed —

" Now, Mr. Passmore " (for that was the name of the old farmer
who accompanied us), " if the moor is pretty free from mist, I can
find a way home which will save us more than three miles : shall
we try it ?"

" Well, sir, there's uo saying," replied he ; " but I don't think,
by look of the sky at least, there's going to be much fog ; so we
may as well try, sir : * nothing venture, nothing gain.' "

" All right ; then we will," exclaimed the joint voices of Thorn-
ton and myself.

Onward we rode through real Devonshire lanes, covered with
fern and grass, till we got to Exmoor. " Hurrah ! there's no mist,"
we shouted out ; and so, thinking ourselves safe, launched boldly
into the moor. After having ridden for about half an hour, we
gradually became alive to the reality of a thick fog advancing upon
us; but we were now so far on in the right road, as to think there
was more danger in turning back than in going on. At last, as the
turf became unpleasantly wet and soft beneath our horses' hoofs, I
said, " Isn't this a bog ?"

" Well," said Thornton, smiling, " I think we have come a little
bit too much to our right, but we must go rather more to the left,
then we shall be all right." We accordingly did ; but neverthe-
less, it didn't mend matters at all, as every step furtlier covered our
horses' legs more and more in the boggy soil which was beneath us*

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Aa this increased, wo could soo timidity visibly dcpict<^d on tlu>
countenance of tho old farmer, who at last gavo vent to his fours
by exclaiming, "My good sir, this '11 never do; wo must turn
back."

" Nonsense," said Thornton ; " don't you see it's firmer over here ?
For'ard I say ; don't * try back.' "

For a few steps the ground certainly was a little firmer, but it
then began to get bad again; and just as our old friend was goinj;
to remonstrate, wo espied one of those large gutters, or, to use a
more dignified word, chasms, which are so common on Exmoor,
down wliich Thornton, who was riding first, went, and we, after tho
manner of tho game of " follow my leader," succeeded. Now, at
no time is it particularly pleasant to ride down one of these places,
as, being used for the purpose of a drain, it is always wet and
damp ; much less still is it to be desired when there is a heavy fon;
settled over the whole moor. But as this path was better than tho
swampy track we had just been following, we chose it. On we
jogged in silence, till we came to an apparent termination of our
career — for no less a sight than the end of this mammoth drain
came before oiu* eyes, up the sides of which it was impossible to
climb, as they descended perpendicularly. On one side, however,
there was an opening, in the shape of a six-barred gate, new, and
strong, and locked ; beyond which a gentle slope led up to the
surface of the common. To try to get through this was now our
only chance ; but how to achieve this was what puzzled us. We
couldn't leap over it, as there was no run for our horses ; and even
if there had been, I very much doubt whether, in their fagged and
weary state, they would have done it ; and the bars were so pro-
vokingly strongly put up as to be impossible to break down ; un-
hinging it, too, was out of the question, for it was constructed in
such a way as to render this impracticable. "What was to be done,
then ? To file the padlock away was a work of the last extremity,

AN ADVENTUIIK UPON EXMOOR.

213

])\\t it must be done; and I fortunately had in my pockrt-knifo n
small filo : so wo agreed to take it by turns, Thornton beginning
first.

" Done at last!" said my friend, surveying his work with a self-
complacent sort of air, as much as to say, *' See, I have saved you :"
and through we passed. Glad we were indeed to find ourselves on
terra firma, as wo considered firm turf after the slippy-sloppy soil
our horses had been wading through. Having ridden on for some
time, and coming to no road, Thornton, who was getting rather
impatient, said, " I tell you what it is, there's no use in going on
like this : just hold my horse, and I will go and reconnoitre a
little."

" All right ;" and away he went, leaving us in a state of the most
anxious suspense till he should return. A quarter of an hour
passed, half an hour, and still no Thornton : we then began to bo
really afraid lest he might have lost his way.

" Halloo-o-o-o-o !" no reply. Same noise repeated ; no answer ;
up and down we wandered, for more than an hour and a half, never
leaving the spot far, lest he might come there in our absence. At
last, after what seemed to us hours, we heard the shrill note of a
dog-whistle, which I knew Thornton had with him.

" Here we are-re-re-re," shouted we with all our might.

" Coming," replied a voice, through the cold and heavy mist,
and in less than a minute he was up beside us.

" Oh," said he, ** I've found out (puff ! gasp ! for he was thoroughly
winded) where we are : we're at Exliead, the worst ground in the
whole forest — no road for miles."

Pleasant, wasn't it ? Here we were, at half-past nine, on the
worst ground of the moor ; no road for ever so far, and full ten
miles from home, enveloped in a thick mist. Suddenly Thornton,
who still maintained his proud position as outrider, cried out,
" Hurrah ! here's the Simmon's Bath Road."

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REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

Half an hour more brought us to the Simmon's Batli Inn, where
we dismounted, eager to procure refreshment for man and beast ;
and, after having gained tliis, we merrily passed over the six more
miles which lay bet r een us and North Molton. Joyous indeed was
our talk over the fire that evening ; for, notwithstanding the time
of the year, the dampness and cold to which we had been exposed
required it ; and heartily did we congratulate ourselves upon being
within four warm and comfortable walls, instead of upon the bleak
and dreary moor.

So ended our adventure upon Exmoor, and pleasant indeed is it
now to recall it ; for, as the man of Arpinum says, " The remem-
brance of past sorrow, in the m'dst of security, inspires pleasure,"
though, if all our other sorrows in life were not heavier than this
one, we should find its path rather smoother than we do.

ADVENTUKE IN PERU.

On the coast of Peru, between the Cordillera of the Andes and the
ocean, is a tract of country rarely visited by Europeans. The tra-
veller accidentally thrown upon it might imagine himself suddenly
transported from the soft Pacific, with its palm-clad isles and coral
reefs, to the centre of the great African desert, exchanging the
scented air and steady tmde-winds for the whirling sand hill and
the death'breathing sirocco.

Extending over a length of five hundred leagues, its breadth
varying from eighty miles to merely a few paces — as the foot of
the sierra advances to or recedes from the sea — is a belt of barren
sand, its desolate surface only broken at wide intervals by the
passage of some mountain stream, which, spreading fertility on its
rainless banks, raises in the sand ocean a narrow island, covered

ADVENTURE IN PERU.

215

with the rich and varied vegetation of the tropics. At times, tlie
snows, melting on the peaks of the vast mountains, hurry down the
ravines in torrents ; and the flood, filling the little watercoui"ses,
overflows their banks, and spreads even into the thirsty desert,
giving new life to the scorched fruits and flowers that grace the
little strip of green.

Between these streams there is no living creature. A curse
seems to rest upon the land ; for, as the lofty sierra draws into its
bosom every moisture-laden cloud, no drop of rain falls on the
parched coast. No soL ary blade of grass decks the yellow surface ;
the hardy chinchilla seeks refuge in the rugged hills; and the
stately condor, soaring aloft till he is but a dark spot upon the pure
blue sky, never stoops to so inhospitable a resting place.

Though destitute of life, the desert is not motionless. The fine
sand, caught up by an eddying vvind, is carried along in high
columns, long lines of which are seen dan ping over the plains,
occasionally striking against each other and dispersing in immense
clouds, which are again caught up and hurried on as before.
Sometimes a number of small pillars are united, and these again
absorb others ; until the mass becomes too heavy for support, and
revolving for a short time on its base, falls in a semicircular
mound, against which other columns break themselves, until the
mound rises to a hill, still retaining a curved shape. Hundreds of
these m^danos are scattered over the desert, some of them of con-
siderable size ; but the close vicinity of the Cordillera throws into
the shade every other eminence, and reduces the sand mountains
to mere mole-hills on the plain. Close to tho sea, the low roar of
the surf, and the constant leaping of the waves, with the presence
of numerous seafowl, break the death-like monotony of tlie scene.

My visit to this dismal spot was paid under circimo stances which
threw no charm around its horrors, but rather added to their
strength. Fond as T ever have been of ^vild adventures and strange

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REMAnKABLK ADVENTURKS.

sponos, it would require much to tempt mo to repeat the one whidi
led me here. I had just h^ft a ship in one of the Peruvian ports,
and, havinpf nothing better to do, joined two sailors in the purchase
of a lx)at, with tho necessary outfit for a sealing trip. Seals, mo
were told, were plentiful on tho islands on the coast, and we wore
advised to make our first attempt on a small group which lay
al>out thirty leagues to the southward of tho port of Pisco. Wo
reached our destination after a long and heavy pull against tho
south-east trade-wind, and found it to be a mere cluster of barreu
ix)cks, covered with a slight coating of guano, completely destitute
of vegetation, and without a single drop of fresh water. Against
the latter contingency we were well provided ; the bottom of our
large whale-lK)at being stowed with several huge earthern jars
which had once been filled with Italia or Pisco, the white brandy
of Peru, but which now held a far more precious liquid — good
spring water.

The rocks were alive with flocks of seabirds ; a few turtle oc-
casionally contrived to crawl upon the lower edges ; and on the
level of the sea were numerous small caves, the rendezvous of our
friends, the seals. We did not find the latter so plentiful as wo
had been led to expect; a circumstance which we attributed in
some measure to the presence of a number of sealions, or hair-
seals, a species much larger than the fur-seal, but destitute of the
fur, which alone makes the latter valuable. The seal itself, and
the mode of capturing it, have been so frequently described, that I
shall not stay to weary the reader with a repetition. I may, how-
ever, remark that the colour of the seal is a beautiful silver gray,
that being the tint of the long hair which forms its outward cover-
ing, and which is removed by the furrie.', leaving exposed the soft
brown fur with which every one is familiar. Th- animals are
generally captured during the night, or rather, in the hour pre-
ceding sunrise, before they begin to leave their holes for the water.

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ADVKNTUUK IN PEUU.

217

A giiiglo blow on the foro pa. ' of tlio liead instantly kills tliom ;
tliough, if the stroke bo unskilfully given, the seal will often mako
a furious attack on the aggressor, gnashing his strong white teeth,
and barking like a dog. A full-grown hair-seal is a dangerous
adversary ; and, though generally easily avoided, from his inability
to make a short quick turn, he will when enraged spring forward
on his flippers with considerable speed.

Wo quickly cleared tho island on wliich we first landed, and,
having secured about forty skins, prepared to pass over to another
that lay at two or three miles distance. The spring tides were in,
and with them a tremendous surf is always rolling on the coasts of
the Pacific, which renders landing even on a smooth beach a very
delicate manoeuvre, requiring great care to prevent the boat from
filling or capsizing. Ours was, as 1 have said, a South Sea or Ameri-
can whale-boat, built stem and stern alike, both sharpened to a point,
and steered by a long oar projecting over the stem — a mode of
steerage remarkably well suited to a heavy surf, as the powerful
leverage of the oar gives the steersman a control over tho boat
which the common rudder does not possess.

The only landing place on the island wo wished to reach was a
narrow strip of beach to seaward ; from each side of which a
small reef of detached rocks stretched round tho island, and on this
the heavy rollers were dashing themselves to pieces, and the white
surf boiling and roaring over it most gloriously. Wo pulled for
the patch of green water opposite the little beach, and waiting for
an extra-sized roller, with one hearty stroke the boat glanced
between the rocks. At this critical moment, the steering strop,
which connects the steer oar with the boat's stern-post, snapped ;
the boat instantly broached to, and came broadside on to the sea ;
the next wave curled over her for an instant, broke, and she was
gone. The sea which filled her carried me on to the shore, but the
reflux washed me out again beyond the line of surf, happily clear

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of the rocks. With a few strokes I was again within the channel,
and a following wave carried me high up on the beacli, where
digging my fingers in the sands, I held on for a moment, and then
ran up above the tide-mark. One of my companions was already
ashore ; the other, who was steering when the boat filled, was gone
— most probably crushed on the rocks, and then washed round the
point of the island. We looked in vain for him. The boat was
knocked to pieces ; two oars, a few fragments, a jar half filled witli
water, and some pieces of another, were all that reached the
island ; everything that we possessed, excepting the few skins we
had taken, was irrecoverably gone. The skins were hidden on the
first island, where. we intended to call for them on our return.

After the first feelings of pleasure and expressions of thanks-
giving for our safety were over, we began to consider what were
our prosj^ects for the future. They were not very satisfactory.
The provisions had all disappeared, the island offered no substitute,
and we were at least eight miles from the main land, and out of
the usual track of vessels running down the coast. After a short
consultation, we commenced a tour of our newly acquired territorj^,
to ascertain if it would afford us any sort of shelter, as our little
tent had gone to the fishes. Our search was unsuccessfid ; we
picked up a few limpets, that served for supper, and at sunset lay
down on the lee-side of the island, wrapped in our ponchos, which
we had happily strapped round us with the belt that contained our
sealing knives. On the second day, we found a turtle on the little
beach, and made a prize of him, cutting the flesh in strips, which
we laid in the sun to dry, as the Brazilians prepare jerked beef.
We had tlius a tolerably good supply of food, but our small allow-
ance of water would not long hold out, and we suffered terribly
from the intense heat, our only shelter from which was — wrapping
the ponchos round our heads, and standing up to the neck in water.
This we repeated several times during the day ; and I have no

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219:

doubt that the process aided to alleviate thirst, and thus assisted
us to spin out the contents of the little jar. So lon^ as daylight
lasted, our eyes were constantly fixed upon the sea, and many a
white seabird was mistaken for a distant sail. At night wo dreaded
that some vessel would pass unseen; and often sent across the
ocean a longj shrill cry, which we hoped might reach a passing ship
hidden from us by the darkness.

At last, on the morning of the sixth day, we saw creeping along
the land, a small schooner, steering a course that would evidently
bring her close to our island. We fastened a shirt to one of the
boat's oars, which we fixed on the highest point of the rook ; and
with the assistance of the tinder box that I always caiTied at my
belt, and the expenditure of half my cotton shirt, we raised a fire
from the small remnants of om* boat.

The wind was very hght, and the schooner seemed asleep on the
water ; I thought she would neT er near us ; our fire was dying out,
and we had nothing to replenish it ; we were almost losing hope,
>vhen suddenly there rose to the vessel's peak a flag, whicli blow-
ing out, showed us the Chilian ensign with its single star, and wo
knew that she had seen us. In two hours we were aboard. We
found she was a Chilian schooner from one of the windward ports
of Peru, bound to the Sandwich Islands, where the captain proposed
to take us ; but, as we had no wish to visit them, he stood in close
to the land and sent the boat ashore with us, supplying us with as
much provisions and water as we chose to carry, in return for our
seal-skins, which we recovered from the island.

This was my first visit to a Peruvian desert. The captain of the
schooner had explained to us the nature of the country through
which we should have to travel ; but, as he also informed us that
we were no great distance from one of the intersecting streams, on
which were several haciendas, we determined to proceed. Fearful
of being lost if we ventured into the interior, we kept for the most

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part close to the sea, following the indentations of the coast. No
stranger ever dares to cross from stream to stream without a guide,
and even these aro frequently at fault, as the drifting sand invari-
ably obliterates the tracks ; and the only landmarks are the ever-
changing medanos, and occasional half-buried heaps of bones, the
remains of mules and asses that have perished in the desert. The
inhabitants of the little villages on the rivers relate many dreadful
narratives of the sufferings of travellers, who have lost their way
atid died for want of water.

In 1823, a vessel, having three hundred troops aboard, was
wrecked about fourteen leagues south-west of Pisco. The crew
and soldiers escaped the milder death by water ; many of them to
meet a far more terrible one — to perish by its want ; their blistered
Ups and swollen tongues mocked by the scalding sand ocean, which
seemed, to their reeling eyes, to heave and set in waves of liquid
metal. Though so near the town, upwards of a hundred men died
in the attempt to reach it, and numbers dropped exhausted on the
route. Immediately on the receipt of intelligence of the disaster,
a troop of cavalry, with a supply of water, was despatched to the
assistance of the survivors. Many of them were discovered lying
around a clump of palms, which occur at very rare intervals near
the sea, and beneath which a small quantity of water is generally
found. Some of the miserable men had expired in the act of
tearing up the ground with their hands, in the desperate search for
the means of quenching their burning thirst ; and few among them
were able to raise to their blackened lips the precious water
brought by their comrades. Such were the effects of only three
days' sojourn in this desolate land, where the bones of those who
perished in it still mark the scene of the terrible calamity.

Already weakened and reduced by our stay upon the little
island, we were but ill fitted to contend against the hardships of a
passap'** through the desert ; and, though our stock of provisions

ADVENTURE IN PERU.

221

and water was sufficient to insure us against present thirst and
famine, yet these, though the chief, were not the only evils.
Anxious to make as much way as possible during the cool night
hours — for it was nearly sundown when we landed — we tmvelled on
until long after the Southern Cross, the timepiece of the Indian,
had passed its meridian and pointed to the west ; but the frequent
detours we were compelled to make round the curved beaches,
added considerably to our journey. At length, worn out by fatigue,
we lay down on a heap of seaweed, and slept soundly until sun-
rise. Befreshed by our rest, and by a hearty breakfast of biscuit
and jerked beef, washed down by a draught of water and italia
(Peruvian white brandy) with which the Chilian captain had
supplied us, we proposed to make a short stretch into the desert
before the sun had attained his full power ; for we expected to
reach the river on the following day, and I was anxious to gain a
better idea of this singular country than could be obtained by
merely travelling along its coast.

With a recklessness upon which I now look back in astonish-
ment, we left our bag of provisions and jar of water on the edge of
the narrow line of seaweed which marked the presence of the high
spring tides ; supposing that we could easily return to them, and
unwilling to burden ourselves with a heavy load whilst wading
through the sand. After walking about a couple of miles inland,
we lost the low roar of the surf, and became more conscious of the
strange realities of our position. As I stood apart from my com-
panion, who had slightly preceded me, my first impression was of
the utter loneliness, the intense solitude of the scene. I had
wandered over the plains of Australia, and the pampas of Chili ;
the thick forests of Tasmania, the swamps of Ecuador, and the
rugged passes of the Andes ; but I had never before felt, in its full
force, what it was to be alone. The restless sand was still ; not a
breath of air was there to stir it; not a cloud moved in the heavens;

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REMAEKABLE ADVENTUKES.

and the eartli shono with a steady glare that did not even flickei*
in the motionless atmosphere. As I raised my foot the liquid sand
flowed in and instantly erased the impression ; the soil, like its
sister ocean, refused to retain a token of man's presence.

It was a realization of the artist's idea of the last man, in all his
horror-stricken loneliness ; but its solitude was more perfect ; for
he looks on the wreck of what has once been life, and sees around
him the results of motion and the marks of change. But here,
every portion of the landscape seemed to have retained the exact
position in which it was created ; and though, in fact, the most
changeful of all scenery, yet its desolate aspect ever remained the
same. The idea of death was not present: death would have
implied change, and even the presence of the dead would have
been companionship. The eye roamed eagerly over the scene,
seeking some point to rest upon. A dark rock, a solitary tree,
even the shadow of a flitting cloud, would have been rehef. Tiio
stillness was frightful ; its very perfection destroyed the feeling of
repose which soothes the mind when gazing on a quiet landscape, and
the most grating sound would have struck pleasantly on the straining
ear. Every sense was painfully aleit ; but no distant landmark,
no wandering perfume, no low tone or passing breeze responded to
the call. A feeling of utter hopelessness oppressed me ; and as I
turned and caught the towering cordillera stretching away, peak
above peak, the sudden barrier, while it broke the spell, appeared
to shut me out from all communion with the world, and leave me
still more helplessly alone.

But the sun was now high in the heavens, and the sand burned
our feet as we turned to make our way back to the sea. And then,
for the first time, did we remember that, all traces of our path
being blotted out, we might possibly miss the spot on which wo
had carelessly left our stores. A simultaneous exclamation of
terror burst from us; but, recollecting that we must eventually

ADVENTUKE IN PERU.

223

reach some part of the beach, we turned our backs on the moun-
tains and tlie sun, and plodded resolutely onwards. The breeze
was coming down jast as it does at sea, making cat's-paws in the
sand, and scattering before it little sprays of dust. It reached us
hot and dry, and as it increased in strength, clouds of fine sand
swept oer us, fiUing our eyes and nostrils, and penetrating the
blistered skin. Wrapping the ix)nchos round our heads, we pushed
on, and shortly came in sight of the sea, and heard with mpture
the sullen roll of the breaking surf.

Anived on the hard beach, we were nnable to decide on which
hand lay our treasures ; but seeing no marks of our passage, we
concluded that we were beyond our last night's resting place, and
so turned back towards it. Though little more than two hours had
elapsed since we parted with our water-jar, yet we were already
suffering the most tormenting thirst ; and, with tongues incapable
of speech, and eyes half blinded by the sand and sun, we prosecuted
our search with all the earnestness of men whose lives depended
on its success. In a few minutes my companion discovered the
footprints, still legible on the wet beach, where we had turned off
into the desert. Twenty yards further was our resting place, and
here, as we had left it, covered with seaweed, was the much prized
water. The flask of brandy was tossed contemptuously aside, and
the narrow neck of the 'botija passed alternately from mouth to
mouth, furnishing a draught which all the gold and silver buried
in the frowning mountains could not have purchased.

After a short rest beneath the slight shadow afforded by a heap
of mingled sand and weed, we started afresh, as the sun declined,
and the breeze hauling from seaward, blew with comparative cool-
ness. As we passed the track, which we had recognised in the
morning, and which had led us to our lost water, I could not help
recalling the favourite book of my boyhood — a book that has made
more sailors than pressgang or bounty money — and remembering

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224

REMARK.VDLE ADVEXTUUES.

among its black engravings one entitled " Crusoe's astonishment
on discovering the footprint in the sand." But whilst poor
Robinson's discovery was to him but a source of dismay and terror,
ours was a sign of gladness, a token of hope renewed. On the
second day, we fell in with patches of thin sickly grass ; by degrees
other marks of vegetation appeared ; and in the evening we reached
the river, then a small stream that rippled gently along its bed,
but in the melting of the mountain snows increased to a rapid,
foaming torrent, sweeping impetuously along its channel, over-
flowing its banks, and spreading fertility around it. Unlike other
rivers, these decrease as they approach the sea, absorbed by the
thirsty country through which they pass, and retained to supply
the extensive systems of irrigation which are in constant operation
on their banks. Travelling up the course of the river, we shortly
afterwards arrived at a sugar plantation, where we were hospitably
received by its owner, a Frenchman, and a long resident in the
country. What a contrast between the scenery here and that
through which we had just passed ! from a land destitute of all
vegetation to one covered with it in its most luxuriant form was
but a single step. From an arid, desolate region, where the
bleached bones of the dead were the only signs that life had ever
been, to a fruitful land glowing with rich produce, brightened by a
lively, sparkling stream, and gladdened by man's presence, was a
change indeed. To us, so recently escaped from the most dreadful
of all deaths, the scene had double charms ; and though familiar
with the rich products of the tropics, yet they met us here as new
acquaintances, and we looked upon them with fresh pleasure.
There were patches of tall sugar-cane ; fields of noble plantain aiid
banana, decked with the rich purple of their pendent clusters, and
their huge dark green leaves shadowing the bulky melons that
trail their slender stems beneath ; the branchy lime tree, its yellow
fruit twinkling among the thick dark foliage; the orange and

ADVENTUKi: IX I'KUU.

22.'i

pomegranate ; and tlio creeping vine, ladou with heavy bunches of
ripe downy berriea Here was the guava, a low bushy shrub,
covered witli tempting apples ready for convc^iou into rich, fine-
flavoured jelly ; there the sombre olive offered its green oily fruit.
Yonder were a few scattered date trees near a field of stately
maize, tlie corn-cobs waving their long silky plumes above frost i
rows of juicy melons, guarded by a fence of prickly cactus, with its
gorgeous flowers fast ripening into fruit. The black alligator j)ear,
its hard kernel bedded in a mass of greenish marrow of peculiar
flavour, eaten with salt, and highly prized by native palates, was
also there ; with the hot crimson chili or capsicum, and the wrinkled
tomata, growing beside the spreading calabash tree, with its crop
of washing tubs and sugar basins.

But see, on this low tree, amidst the narrow pointed leaves,
Jiangs the pride and darling of Peru — the fragi*ant cherrimoya. A
little larger than an apple, with a scaly rind, its colour dark green
intermingled with spots and lines of a greyish brown or blaclc, it
lias not a very prepossesshig appearance. But open it : sprinkled
with cinnamon-coloured seeds, is a white juicy pulp, whose deli-
cious flavour almost warrants the extravagant encomiums of the
Peruvians — in which even the grave Humboldt has joined — and
you, as the luscious syrup trickles over your palate, are half guilty
of high treason in ranking it above the plums, and pears, and
apples, that flourish round your own old home in far-off England.

But here is a plant you have seen before — the humble but
imaluable potato in its native country ; and as though it liked its
own soil best, it is large and of most excellent quality. Here, too,
are gigantic members of the same family — the yam and the camote.
The leguminosae are represented by beans, callavancas, and the
perpetual feijole, a small bean which appea-rs at every meal. Our
favourite cereal, wheat, is absent ; and its place is but ill supplied
by the yellow Indian corn. On the sides of the mountains grow

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KKMAUKAllLE AUVKNTL UKS.

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barley, rye, and above all the quinoa, which in some parts of Peru
becomes tlio staff of life. It is the produce of a small shniblty
])lant, bearing tliick clusters of little flowers, succeeding which uiv
pods filled with small seeds. These seeds are cooked like rice, and
with the boiled leaves form tlie chief sustenance of vast nnndtcrs
of the Indians of South America. Ijut we are loitering on the \\ay,
loth to leave so rich a garden.

After watching the process of converting the thick cane-juico
into chancaca — for the sugar is not gi'anulated, but cooled in large
cakes about an inch in thickness, to which that name is given —
we travelled up the river, in company with an Indian mule-driver
and his troop of asses laden with produce for Yea, a large town a
few leagues distant. When near the sierra, we struck off into the
desert, our guide directing his course by the medanos, which leg
habit had enabled him to convert into landmarks, though from
their frequent shiftings and changing shapes they are but sorry
guide-posts. We reached Yea, however, in safety ; and as a beaten
road leads from hence to its seaport, Pisco, our journeyings in this
desolate country were over, and we could once more mingle in

** The crowd, the hum, the shock of men."

AN ADVENTURE IN CARLINGFORD BAY; OR, THE

SPRIG OF LAVENDER.

Yes, I have been wearing a sprig of lavender in my coat all day
long. The 26th of September is with me an anniversary day ; and
the sprig of lavender vividly recalls the memory of a scene of peril
and deliverance.

The sun rose brightly this morning, and through a cloudless sky
he has passed upward and onward to his rest. It was otherwise

Aa\ ADVENTUllE IN CAIILINGFORD BAY.

227

on tlio '2Gt]\ of Soptomber, 1829. On that day a lovely scene was
made gloomy and sad by blaek clouds careerin;:^ through tlu^
heavens, and by the angry winds, which in fitful gusts swept over
the waters of a bay which the day before shone in the sunlight
like a sheet of silver. On that morning, I had gone forth with ji
younger brother, as we were wont to do, along the shore. We had
recently been introduced to a young gentleman, the son of

Captain . He Avas a deaf mute, but no one could toll from

his appearance that ho was so. He had received a supt'rior
education at Glasgow, could read and write as well as convei-se on
the fingers, was full of life and energy, and looked in his undress
sailor's garb the leau ideal of manly beauty.

When this gentleman, who had just succeeded, by the help oi"
two boatmen, in launching a boat for an excursion, saw my com-
panion and myself standing on the shore, he eagerly waved his
hand, beckoning us to join him. We had just expressed to each
other our reluctance to do so, in consequence of the threatening-
aspect of the weather ; yet, as it was useless to call out to him, we
ran down to the water's edge, when by means of signs, as well as
through the boatman, he gave us to understand that they were
about to have a sail to Rostrevor. With youthful thoughtlessness,
putting away all our apprehensions, we leaped at once into tln^
stern of the boat and seated ourselves by his side. A moment
afterwards, the sails were filled with a fresh breeze, and like u
seabird our bark sped so swiftly before it, that in a quarter ol
an hour or little more we had reached the intended limits of our
excursion.

But our ardent friend was not satisfied : he intimated to us, on a
pencilled slip of paper, that he had friends at Carlingford, whom
he longed to see, and so the signal was given to the two boatmen
to direct our voyage thither. Five miles were thus to be passed
over ere we could reach our destination. We swept speedily

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228

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

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onward; but as soon as we ivached that part of the bay wliieh
lies between two lofty nioup tains, we found ourselves exposed to
imminent peril. Suddenly, now from one quarter, then from
another, a squall came with darkening wing and rusliing noise,
and, striking the boat in a moment, bent it over, ui)t d tlie water
began to rush in over its side. The alarm occasioned by this was
much heightened when we discovered that both boatmen were in u
state bordering on intoxication. We implored them to lower the
sails ; but th^ bottle of spirits which they had brought witl\^them
had made them reckless of danger. At length, by dint of urgent
importunities, we prevailed on them to agree to our proposal, and,
" brailing up " the sails, they plied the oars vigorously for an hour,
at the end of which time we landed at Carlingford.

Here, climbing up some steep cliffs, we examined the thick
walls and desolate chambers of a fortress erected by king John.
We traversed the town itself, nestling as it does beneath a lofty
mountain, which, rising up abruptly several thousand feet, like a
mighty wall, causes a premature twilight long before the hour
when the sun has set in the west. Our new-made acquaintance
repaired with joyous expectation to the mansion of the family
which he had in the morning so earnestly desired to visit. But, to
his great disappointment, we discovered that all its inmates were
from home. There was a sweet garden plot before the windows,
and along the gravel walk which led up to the door was a hedge
of lavender, which filled the air with its perfume. I plucked
a sprig from that fragrant hedge and placed it in my button-
hole.

The time at length came when we must return homeward.
Seven long miles were before us, and it was now four o'clock in
the afternoon of one of September's closing days. Our boat,
which we had left on the sands, was floated by the fast-flowing
tide : and in the warm-hearted desire that we should receive no

AN ADVENTURE IN CARLINGFORD BAY.

229

wliicli
ised to
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injury to health, our stalwart young friend, who was well accus-
tomed to the sea, and every inch a sailor, laid hold of us one after
the other, and carrying us through the water, placed us safely and
dr}^-shod on board. We were speedily under weigh : the sails
flapped the masts at first, while we were under the shelter of the
mighty rock on which the old castle was built ; but by and by wo
stood out into the bay. We had fondly believed that all our perils
were past. What, then, was our surprise when, about two miles
ahead of our boat, and in the direct track which it was necessary
for us to take, we saw the sea violently upheaved and tossed into
foam ! It was as if some sea monster was disporting himself
beneath, and in his gambols disturbing the otherwise placid waters.
Ever and anon, also, we saw the waters caught up by a sudden
squall, and borne along on its tempestuous wings in sheets of wliite

spray for several hundred yards. Our companion [razed at

this spectacle with intense interest, his face darkened, he shook his
head, and by a great effort he gave utterance, in harsh and guttural
accents, to the boding words, " Bad ! verra bad !" We could not
but share in his apprehensions ; but these disturbed waters, upon
which *' the war of elements " seemed to concentrate its fuiy,
were still at some distance, and perhaps ere we reached the place
all would be tranquil again. We were deceived in our reckoning :
the crisis of danger was at hand. While standing out under a quiet
breeze from the rocky coast, suddenly, within a hundred yards of
our boat, a " white squall " rose up as it were from the sea in its
t'uiy, and with an appalling noise as of a mighty whirlwind, and
with tempest speed, it rushed towartls us, and almost in a moment
was upon us. I have often since thought of it as a great winding
sheet wrapping up death's victims in its folds; and perhaps the
figure was suggested by the fatal issue of its fury.

Our terrified boatmen leaped instantly to their ft it to "brail
r.p " the sails ; but it was too late. Our boat was a long narrow

230

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

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yawl, employed by the local officers of the revenue for the boaid-
in^ of merchant vessels coming into the bay, and not fitted, like
the broad-beamed fishing boats along the coast, to encounter the
violence of such a tempest. No sooner, therefore, did the squall
strike the boat than she was upset, and in a moment 1 was plun«^od
into the foaming waves. From boyhood's days, both my brother
and myself had been accustomed to swim in the pellucid waters of
the river Bann, on whose banks stood the ivy-decked cottage of onr
birth. We were therefore able to sustain ourselves when immersed
in the sea, and thus had time to realize our condition, and under
the powerful instinct of self-preservation to seek how we might
best escape from the jaws of death. As for myself, my first glance
was toward the shore ; but, discouraged and almost despairing, I
turned round and looked towards the boat, in the hope that I migh^
be able to cling to it until help could arrive. I saw at one gla. ce
how hopeless it was to expect the boat to be righted : it was (Com-
pletely overturned ; and even to secure one's self on the keel was
impracticable, as the waves washed violently over it. The masts,
with the sails draggled in the brine, were lying almost on the sur-
face of the water ; and with both hands holding on to the top of the

mainmast, and submerged to the throat, the deaf mute ,

looking anxiously toward the shore, first met my eye. Nearer to
me, and struggling in the waves, was the elder of the two boatmen.
His large head, covered with thickly curling anu raven hair, his
dark eyes flashing terror, his whole aspect marked by anxiety and
affright, are still vividly pictured on my memory. As he battled
the waves with his brawny arms and limbs, he shouted aloud from
time to time for help, in which his mate, who could not swim, but
who v.*s clinging to the stem of the boat, joined lustily. The
swimmer, as I have said, was the elder of the two, and, as I after-
wards discovered, was a veteran in sin, a drmikard and a debauchee.
Only the nigiit befv re, the sleep of the inhabitants and visitors, and

AN ADVENTURE IN CARLINGFORD i:\Y.

li^l

of ourselves among the rest, at W , liad been disturbed by the

uoiso of some brawl in wliich he was involved.

While 1 .lesitated as to the course I should adopt — whether to
cling to the boat or to make for the shore — the voice of my brother
fell on my ear. He called on me to follow him as he swam away
from the wreck, and I did so. At this moment my presence of
mind was to myself wonderful. I felt that if we put forth all our
strength and speed, wo should ere long sink from exhaustion, and
at once I cautioned my companion to swim slowly. I thoroughly
realized my position. I knew I was on the brink of eternity ; but
the love of life was strong in me. Dear parents and familiar
friends passed in review before me. I looked to the encompassing
mountains, and I said to myself, " Am I indeed here to perish ?"
It was hard, almost impossible, for me to believe it. And as we
pressed on with measured strokes, words of mutual encouragement
were spoken, and earnest ejaculations rose to heaven. The cap
which my brother wore had fallen off upon his shoulder, as he was
tossed out of the boat when it was upset. It was strapped beneath
his chin, and thus retained, it was gi'adually swept round over the
shoulder until it reached the mouth and threatened to suffocate
him. With great difficulty he succeeded in shifting it to the other
shoulder. Had it been otherwise, or had one of us been disabled
by cramp, or been sinking from exhaustion, and the other endea-
voured to save him, there is no doubt that both would have
?)erished.

\ye continued to swim towards the shore, on which stood a num-
>>r of reapers, who had suspended their work, and who were
watv^hing us and our companions with intense interest, without any
means apparently at hand to rescue us. Meantime a gracious Pro-
vident was providing deliverers for us. Two boatmen, who had
left on foot the town of Carlingford soon after we had left
the harbour, on crowning the top of the hill which commanded

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232

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

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a view of the bay, observed tlio furious squall and its disastrous
result. They instantly turned, and running back to the harbour,
at about the distance of a mile, launched a boat and rowed towards
us. Meanthne we struggled on : tlie shore was now within a
hundred yards, but our strength w'as failing fast. Suddenly a
boat appeared : it was almost upon us ere we perceived it. What
a moment of glad surprise ! It was as life from the dead !

One moment, and the stalwart sailors seized us and dragged us
into the boat, our clothes saturated with water, and the sudden
reaction after continued excitement almost causing me to swoon.
Speedily, however, I revived, and I eagerly asked after the fate of
our three companions. Unseen by us, two boats had from opposite
quarters come to the rescue, and one of these had made for the
wrecked boat. Tlia- ' ^ ^; now approached our own. We asked
for the tidings — our eye, aem selves beheld but one saved. It was
the man who could not swim, whom I had left clinging to the stem
of the sinking boat. Of tlie other two, young and the curly-
headed brawny mariner, whose cry of alarm was still ringing in my
ears, not a trace could be found, not even a floating cap or hand-
kerchief to indicate the spot where " the strong swimmer in his

agony " had gone down. Of O , we heard that, losing his hold

of the top of the mast, he had swam round to the man who clung
to the boat, and by signs invited him to get on his back, that lie
might carry him to the land. The man told us that he had refused

to do so, and that then Mr. O had struck out for the shore, and

wlien he had got away -^.bout ten yards he saw him sink. I now
realized more than ever the greatness of our deliverance : at the
same time the sudden doom of two men whom I had so latelv seen
in the full vigour of health and life filled my mind with horror.

As soon as we reached home, the news of the upsetting of the
revenue boat and the drowning of two men spread rapidly through
the town. We had not long reached our lodgings when Captai'i

AN ADVENTURE IN CARLINGFORD liAY.

O , the liither of our lamented and lost young friend, entered.

IT(> sat down opposite to us, and, asking us one or two questions, we
detailed to him all that had occurred. He listened in speechless
agony ; and without speaking one word, and with " a grief too deep
for tears," that gray-haired soldier and sire went away. Next morn-
ii a fleet of boats was seen off the headland, where onr bark had
been swamped ; but it was not till two days after that tlie body of

was discovered, and three weeks passed away ere tlie body

of the drowned boatman — by that time half devoured by the shell-
fish — was found. There seems to be with some a strange pleasure
in being the first to bring tidings, even if they are bad ; and so it
was in our family circle. But ere long the swift post assured our
loving father that his sons were yet alive.

With all these never-to-be-forgotten incidents crowding on my
memory, the 26th of September never returns without exciting in
my breast emotions of gratitude to our great Deliverer. Since
that day, these long years back, many changes have come in the
lot and life of both myself and surviving brother. To one has been
assigned " the work of the ministry," and that in three different
spheres of toil. The other treads the path of an honourable and
upright merchant. But each year, as the 26th of September
draws nigh, the one is accustomed, in a brief postscript to his
weekly letter, to say, " Let us not forget to give thanks to God in
the recollection of our wonderful deliverance from sudden death."

There are flowers imperishably associated with great events in
the public history and life of nations. The rose, the sham .ock, and
the thistle, are the emblems of that United Kingdom whose privi-
leges we share. The orange lily reminds us of " Orange Boven "
and the llevolution of 1688 ; and the fleur de lis of Henri Quatre
and the Huguenot cavaliers of France. But, to me, there is a
flower more dear and sacred, for it always recalls the memorable
day of my merciful deliverance. It is, a Sprig of IjAVENDER.

234

r. KM A U K A 1U,K A 1 )V KNTUHES.

lilY ENCOUNTER WITH A BUFFALO.

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]\liNK has boon aii advcntuvoiis life. Thrice have I boon elu'))-
wreckod, twice shot at, wliile onco, by the accidental dischari>e dI'
my own gun, the ball carried away the jieak of my cap. I have
had ugly encounter with snakes, have been np.«et both from horses
and gigs; while on one occasion, when at sea, I fell out of a cabin
window and was nearly drowned ; besides many other hairbreadth
escapes, to relate all of which would occupy too much space. Ihit
I mean now to speak of one adventure which occurred in 1840 ;
one to which I can seldom recur without laughing and shudder inn-
alternately. I laugh to think of the ridiculous figure I must have
cut in the eyes of idle spectators ; I shudder to remember that my
life was so nearly forfeited by my temerity.

I was then a lad of barely fifteen years of age, and the circum-
stances were as follows.

I was stationed for a few months at Penang, that delightful little
spot in the Straits of Malacca, where the climate is the finest in the
whole Eastern Archipelago, the people the most hospitable and
friendlv, the fi-uits the most delicious, the flowers the most frairrant,
and the birds the best warblers in the east. One day, a laAvyer of
the name of C — , who lived in the main street of Penang — the only
street without a turning in the island, and which runs parallel with
the harbour — had invited a few friends, chiefly officers of the
native infantry corps stationed on the island, to partake of a quiet
dinner at his house. Amonji^st the favoured few mv name was in-
eluded ; accordingly, at the appointed hour, we assembled at the
lawyer's table. In most parts of India, as well as in the Straits, it
is usual for young men at a bachelors' party to be saws fa^on. The
heat is so intense, sometimes, tliat even the thin white cambric

MY KNCOt'NTKR WITH A HUFFAT^O.

jackets jiro felt nn inconvonionco, and aro accord iiifjly dofTcd. 'Vh'iA
was pnuMHoly tli(^ case witli us on tlu; j)n\scnt occasion. Well, flic
dinner passed off, and the dessert cam(; on. We sat waiting I'ortlio
hour to arrive when tlio coolness of tlu» (weniw^ would permit of
<mr mounting our ponies, and takinp^ a canter in the environs of
(reorgo Town. Tho streets aro at all times quiet in Penang, but
more especially so between the hours (»!' three and live o'clock,
when people for tho most part are enjoying a siesta.

On this occasion, however, while still seated at tho table, W(^
wore suddenly startled by the very unusual sounds of firearms, and
the distant hootings of a multitude. What coidd it be? Wo
listened attentively ; there was no mistake about tho matter at all ;
the authors of the alarm, whoever they might be, were evidently
Hearing us, and that at a rapid rate. The firing was all tho time
kept up smartly, not in volleys, but it resembled tho firing of the
light infantry platoon. What could it be ? was the question again
repeated. At length wo unanimously came to the conclusion that
it must be an emeute, commenced most probably by the Malays and
the Achenese, who were seeking some bloodthirsty revenge, and
would doubtless, as we feared, massacre every one that crossed
their path. At this moment a tremendous shout was raised at tho
top of the street in which the lawyer s house stood, accompanied
by a more rapid firing than ever, while we could distinctly hoar thft
bullets whizzing along the street. There was now no longer any
doubt on our minds, and each one, seizing his hat or cap, made a
rush down-stairs with the intention of retreating to the seaside ;
there, if possible, to secure a boat ; or, if not, to swim off to the
shipping for refuge. Many instances had lately occun-ed of vindic-
tive Malays running a muck ; that is to say, after having committeu
a murder, rendered callous by the certainty of death, and uiged on
by a thirst for blood, they arm themselves with a kreese, and rush
up and down the streets, wounding every one who comes in their

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230

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

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way, until they arc eithor shot or arrested. r>osid(?s this, a montli
liad barely elapsed since some Malay convicts, transported to
Ceylon, had risen against the crew and massacred them in the
most barbarous manner. With these facts in our mem(^ry, ni>
wonder that we were alarmed, as we too well knew that wo had
but little mercy to expect at their hands ; while, from the circum-
stance of their having arrived at this point of the island, it was
evident that they must have traversed the military quarters, and
consequently that they had in all probability massacred every
European and native soldier. There was yet the little fort with
the European artillery, and the shipping in the roads, which, pro-
vided our supposition was correct, afforded the only chances of
escape. We had every hope of reaching shelter, however, as the
assailants were approaching from a contrary direction. Down we
lushed, therefore, half-a-dozen steps at a time ; the passage and
then the door were speedily cleared, and we found ourselves in the
open street. A momentary gaze in the direction of the crowd con-
iirmed our previous suspicion, and balls came whizzing by in most
unpleasant proximity to our persons.

At tlie instant I was about to turn, and take to my heels for the
sea, I witnessed a most extraordinary phenomenon. A fat old
Chinaman, who to all appearance was flying like ourselves from the
vengeance of the marauders, suddenly took a most astonishing leap
into the air, and disappeared over the wall of a neighbouring
court-yard. Before I had time to conjecture how this sudden dis-
play of agility was effected, I had sufficient motives to put my own
to the test ; for, not two yards in front of me, and evidently haviag
singled me out as a capital target, there came tearing down at full
speed a huge mad buffalo, equal in height and strength of limb to
any bison I had ever met with in the Wynard Jungle. There was
the fire of anger and madness in his eye, and his mouth was
covered with foam and blood. 1 could almost feel the heat of his

. ^

MY ENCOUNTER WITH A BUFFALO.

237

hard Lrcatliinjif as I tiirnod i)i'ocii)itately with terror and flod for ray
lifo. If ever fear lent wings to human feet, mine must have been
decorated with as many as ever gave speed to a Mercury. I dared
not look behind, but still I heard and felt the infuriated tiling, and
every instant expected to feel his sharp-pointed horns piercing my
l)a(!k and lungs. From my iriend's house it was barely three
Imndred yards to the jetty ; but then I had to turn to my right,
and so doing the buffalo would most indubitably have doubled uj)on
and caught me in the very act of turning. This I saw at a
moment's glance, and consequently there was nothing left for mo
but to make straight for the fort, which was not more than four
Imndred yards from the jetty. Immediately before me was a
species of raihng, which fenced off an exercise ground for tluj
artillery, and was of sufficient height to prevent donkeys and cows
from leaping over. This fence was made of posts planted into the
ground at regular distances, through which a stout rope was passed.
Had I not been so hotly pressed, I could easily have stooped under
the rope and so have escaped ; but that was now out of the ques-
tion: my life depended upon the jump, and no acrobat in the
streets of London ever more astonished the multitude than I did
myself on this occasion, by the tremendous spring I took. I
alighted safely on the other side, but, without pausing a moment,
renewed my flight towards the sentry at the fort-gate, who, seeing
my danger, was rushing forward to meet me.

All this time, it must be remembered, the people never ceased
firing at the infuriated animal, who was snorting and roaring under
the pain of not less than twenty bullet wounds, as I afterwards dis-
covered. How I escaped being shot myself, or at least wounded, is
•even more wonderful than my outstripping the buffalo in swiftness.
I can only remember my escape with astonishment and with grati-
tude. Still I ran on, till at last I missed the sound of the pursuer,
and, glancing hastily over my shoulder, had the unspeakable satis-

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faction of heholding the buffalo cliarging at an om]>ty cajriajro
which was standing near tlio jetty points, and Avhos(3 panels lu>
smasho(l in such a manner as made my heart tremhh^ when T
thouijht what my rihs wonld have suffered from his horns. It
would seem that thc! buflalo most valiantly made the leap, detcr-
niined to have a pusli at me at any rate ; but his strenirth was too
much exiianstod from loss of blood, and this, in addition to his owu
weighty bulk, disaWed him from clearinr^ tlie barrier, so that ho fell
ba^k wards only to rise again with freshly maddened fury, and
charge in an opposite direction.

There were at this time several ladies and children collected at
the jetty — the usual rendezvous of an evening; and it may be
readily conceived with what a thrill of terror they behold this
exploit, and how, with screams and trembling, they rushed into
boats and got rowed out into the bay ; after this the buffalo
changed his course, and charged, as I have said, the palanquin
carriage. The concourse had now hemmed the maddened brute
completely in ; wherever he made a charge, he was rebutfod at the
point of the bayonet, or received another ball into his perforated
body. At last, as a final and desperate resource, and determined
not to give in to his mimberless tormentors, the noble but infuri-
ated animal plunged into the sea, and struck out for the opposite
shore of Province Wellesley. Here he was followed by boats and
quickly dispatched ; and when they towed the carcass on shore
again, it was marvellous to see what tenacity the brute had dis-
|)layed, with bullets lodged in parts which in other animals would
liave been fatal. Of course, my friends were delighted to shake
hands with me again, and to compliment me on the prodigy of
valour and presence of mind which I displayed in running away
from a rabid animal ; and of course, also, my scamper with the
buffalo became a matter of a nine days' wonder, and the theme of
many jokes — so closely does the serious sometimes border on the

AN ADVENTURE IN Till: LEVANT.

23!)

ludicrous — among the small but liospitable and sociable ooninnmity
of IVnuug. I was struck, on reflection afterwards, with the suddcii
mauuer in which the danger had arisen. Human alTairs, indeed, 1
Iia\ e noticed in my passage through life, are so ordered, that in tli«)
most unexpected moments perils arise ; a constitution of nature,
which seems intended to teach us how habitually we need the pro-
tection of providential aid, and how constant, therefore, ought to
be our spirit of humble dependence on God and preparation for
the future by a faithful reliance on the Saviour.

AN ADVENTUKE IN THE LEVANT.

The hero, or rather victim, of the following thrilling adventure
was a fellow passenger of mine in my homeward-bound voyage,
dm-ing the year 1850. A Greek by birth, though a Frenchman at
lieart, by education and naturalization, he disclosed to me a spo-
cinieu of the atrocities sometimes perpetrated by a set of freebooters,
in the guise and under the protection of their official positions as
(/enS'd'armes, or police constables. Had he not been possessed of
the very best certificates from gentlemen holding high rank in the
French naval service, as also from the British consul-general on
the coast of Barbary, testifying to his general good conduct,
sobriety, and truthfulness, I might have been inclined to consider
the whole affair as a fabrication designed to excite sympathy and
compassion for his sufferings. But when, in addition to the
certificates, I watched the face of the sun-burnt Athenian as it
glowed with the feelings of indignation at the recital of the treat-
ment he had received at the hands of his ccwardlv assailants;
when I marked his strong frame quiver and wide chest heave with
the various emotions of fear, pain, and anger; when I reflected

240

REMAlUvAUI-E \DVI:NTUUKS.

! Il

tliut, ill recouiitiiii^ tliis sad pago from his advouturoiis life, he was
afroHh opening deep heart wounds ; and when, finally, I reniemborod
that ho could not possibly hope to reap any benefit by exciting my
interest and sympathy — all tliese circumstances combined served
to convince me of the veracity of the tale.

It was a fine; moonlight night when first this narrative of adven-
ture was poured into my attentive ears, and never shall I forget
the effect it produced upon tlie group of voyagerLj who were linger-
ing on deck until long past the hour of midnight, loth, like myself,
to quit the cool and pleasant deck, and all the glories of a Me-
diterranean moon-lit sea, for the close and uncongenial berths
allotted to us in the cabin. We could just see Malta lighthouse
far away on the larboard bow ; and the vessel was dashing through
the water at a rate that gave us fair hopes of a quick and pleasant
passage to dear old England, from whose shores some of us had
been absent for many long years. Wo were sitting upon the hen-
coops, or upon the best available seat that offered itself, recount-
ing such adventures and describing such scenes as our long residence
in the east had subjected us to ;• or else, taking happy mental glimp
of home and long absent friends, with whom we hoped speedily
again to hold familiar converse. Gradually the conversation began
to flag, when it was put to the vote and unanimously carried, that
each one of our party should relate some incident of his life and
travels. In course of time it came to the turn of the Greek, who,
after considerable hesitation, recounted to us the following passage
in his history, which appeared to me to present a striking illus-
tration of the disorganized state of society in many parts of the
east.

I am, he commenced, a native of Greece. Whilst yet a child,
my parents emigrated to France, ard, thanks to their kind care
and good education, I was at the age of eighteen a civilized
European in manners and morals, and a Protestant by creed. I

AN ADVENTUIIK IN THE LEVANT.

211

oould distinctly discern the many foibles of my poor, illitcratt% l)ut
crafty countrymen. At the same time that I could not but pity
their defects and errors, I shunned their society, considering tiieni
too often devoid of principle, and so wily in their every under-
taking, thought, word, and deed, as to prove dangerous companions
or associates, and seldom to be trusted with a secret or a dollar. In
1835 I entered the French service, and joined a war steann'r,
commanded by a post-captain in the French navy, "with whom I
remained during a period of ten years, and whose testimonials as to
my services and character are a suHlcient passport for me to work
my way in any part of civilized Europe. The kindness and uu-
aflected dignity of this brave and open-hearted old sailor are too
well known to demand any comment from me. There are many
of his own countrymen, and not a few English, who have directly
or indirectly been brought in contact with him on business matters,
or in the more agreeable capacity of guests, passengers, or subor-
dinate officers ; and I may safely at^sert, that none ever quitted his
presence without a conviction of their having been in the society
of a perfect gentleman, a gallant and lenient yet strict officer, and
a most sincere friend.

In the month of December, 18 — , the steamer chanced to be
lying at anchor in a port in the Levant ; and having at that time a
sister living at the city adjacent, who was married to a lieutenant
in the Greek artillery, to her house it was my custom to repair on
all liberty days, or on other occasions when the day's work was over
and I could obtain permission to leave the vessel for a few4iours in
the evening. I seldom slept on shore, for somehow or other I
never fancied myself at hom.e or felt at ease except when I was in
my own snug little cabin on board, and my night's repose was
never sounder than when lulled to sleep by the gentle lullaby oi
the rippling waves and the music of the Mediterranean breeze.
Xo man could have felt happier than I did at the time I am now

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242

KEMAIUv^VBLE ADVENTURES.

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speaking of, none being apparently so secure from trouble or mis-
fortune. I had amassed a small sum of money, which I felt a
satisfaction in knowing had been accumulated honestly, by dmt of
prrseverance and indefatigable labour. My father had been many
years dead, and my poor mother and a younger brother and sister
were entirely dependent upon iry exertions for support. Happily
I was in a position to place these two latter under the care of a
worthy Protestant divine, my mother being unwilling to intrust
them to the teachers of a Roman Catholic seminary.

Sucli were the comfortable circumstances by which I was sur-
I'ounded when the incident I am about to relate occurred. Kow
terrible its ejBfects have been may be clearly traced by the symbols
of j)remature old age which I cany about my person. (Here the
narrator paused, and, lifting his hat off his head, displayed to view
the many gray hairs that wore thickly mingling with his originally
raven locks.)

I consider, he continued, resuming the thread of his narrative,
that to tlie terrible incident in question I owe the abbreviation of
my lii'o by full fifteen years; for I have never since, in health or
st length, been the man I was before the eventful night of which I
am about to speak— a night which taught me the uncertainty of
the best arranged human plans and the contingencies to which they
are constantly exposed.

It was late one e\ aning in December that I obtained leave of
absence from the officer of the watch, purposing to visit the shore
for a few hours, and promising to be on board agam before mid-
night at tlie latest. I little thought, on quitting the ship's side,
that I should be compelled that night, for the first time in my life,
to break my word. It happened to be the eve of Si. Nicholas — a
dc.y ccdebrat; d as a festival by the members of the Greek church,
and more particularly by such amongst her inhabitants as chanced
to be named after that saint, and that claimed him as their patron.

AN ADVENTURE IN THE LEVANT.

24;j

Amonp^st these latter was my brother-in-law ; and as I knew tliat
on the morrow I could not with any propria ^ty ask leave to spond
the day on shore, I thought I would go up to his house for a i'ew
hours that evening, carrying with mo a souvenir, in the shape of a
richly mounted Turkish pipe that I had purposely brought with
me from Constantinople. This I knew would prove an aerv^ptaMo
gift, as he was uniiappily in inveterate smoker.

I may here state that the town to which I was bound was
situated at a distance of nearlv an hour's walk from the landing
place, end the road leads over a desolate country, with no houses
or other buildings save two coffi e shops, which serve as miserable
and unsafe half-way houses for the traveller : besides these, there
is a still more miserable shed allotted to the sentry, who is nomi-
nally placed there to protect the highway, and be a safeguard to
the stranger from the assaidts and raal-treatment of robbers and
assassins — a class of men always more or less abundant in these
semi-civilized regions.

I remained later than usual at my sister's house that e\ oning,
for tlie weather had suddenly set in boisterous and chilly, witli
frefjuent squalls of hail, thunder, and lightning, so that I had
deferred my departure to the very last moment, hoping that the
Aveatlier might clear up again. It was not till some minutes past
eleven that I quitted my sister's house, despite her tears and re-
monstrances ; for I was determined, if possible, to be punctual to
my promise. Well wrapped up in great coats and conifoi-ters, with
nothing but a small rattan switch in my hand, I accordingly started
for the seaside, and walked as briskly as T could towards iliu point
of embarkation. The night was inten-^ly dark, so much so that I
could barely see a yard before me, and the wind howled mourn-
fully over the waste ; but the pathway having long l)een familiar
to my footsteps, I could have almost picked my way blindfokled.
The cold, bleak, cutting blast came in litful gusts over the deserted

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244

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

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country ; but the very inclemency of ihe weather was a source of
consolation to me, for I imagined that no banditti would expose
themselves to that night's wet and cold, when the chances of booty
must have been small indeed, few liking to quit the protection of
their comfortable roofs and warm firesides.

I neither met nor saw any one until I had arrived almost within
hail of the half-way houses before alluded to : then, for the first
time, through the gloom that surrounded me I discerned the forms
of several closely muffled figures, moving apparently in the same
direction as myself, and whom I supposed to be captains or mates
of some of the merchant vessels in the harbour, who for the sake
of better security were keeping together till they should reach
their respective boats. I immediately availed myself of such a
favourable convoy, and, quickening my pace, was soon alongside of
the strangers. After exchanging salutations and commenting oi
the wretched state of the weather, I inquired if their destination
was the same as mine, and was answered in the affirmative. As
we proceeded onwards, I had time to take a casual glance at the
features and dress of my companions : what little I saw at once
convinced me that I had fallen into very suspicious company ; and
if the slightest doubt remained as to their real character, this was
speedily removed by their unblushing demands to be recompensed
for the trouble they would incur in keeping me company, while at
the same time they kept edging up and hemming me in on all
sides, either with the intention of rifling my person, or of unex-
pectedly inflicting a mortal stab, which might enable them to
collect such few valuable? as J had about me at their leisure, with
the certainty of no clue remaining that might lead to their ultimate
detection ; for " dead men ijell no tales."

I could see that they were well armed, and knew that my only
hope for succour was the close vicinity of the guard-house. Watch-
ing my opportunity, I made a rush for this place with such impe-

AN ADVENTUKE IN THE LEVANT.

245

tuosity as nearly to upset the alarmed sentry, wlio v/as hanging-
indolently over a wood fire lit in a hole dug in the centre of the
hovel.

" How now?" shouted the fierce Albanian, on recovering Jiis
self-possession : '* what means all this noise and hubbub ?"

A few words sufficed to acquaint the soldier with the real state
of affairs; and as my suspicious companions had passed on, he
readily agreed to my sharing the pleasant warmth of the fire with
him. As the heat gradually penetrated my many overcoats, 1
was glad to strip off my great coat and liang it on a nail in the
wall.

The Albanian spoke Greek as fluently as myself, and entered
into conversation freely : he had a sorry tale of want and trouble
to recount. The government never paid, though it subjected him,
he said, to all the arduous duties of a serf. The rations of himself
and companions were insufficient, and what a dog would barely
deign to partake of; and as for the meagre cup of wine served out
to them, it was more fit to be classed as exceedingly bad vinegar
than anything he could compare it to; and then the Albanian
threw out unmistakable hints as to the oxcellenco of the wine sold
at the coffee shops hard by, lamenting his poverty, which prevented
his enabling him to taste and judg*^ '' ^r himself. Upon hearing this,
I indiscreetly offered to treat him ; and leaving his musket to take
care of itself, he conducted me into the ne;n«»st of the two cafes, on
entering wliich I discovered that there were a non-commissioned
officer and three privates seated there, drinking and gr iiMing.
All were Albanians save the officer, who, howevei-, seemed well
versed in their language, and they all spoke Turkish fluently.
Unhappily for myself, I was utterly ignorant of both tlir Albanian
and Turkish tongues. In treating the soldier to win according
to Levantine etiquette I ordered cups to be served all round to his
friends and acquaintances. I drank nont myself, but merely

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2i0

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

sipped it out of compliment to those present. The chanp^e of
atmosphere from the stifling little hovel i had just quitted became
very soon perceptible, and then, for tlie first time, I remembered
having forgotten my great coat. I ran over to fetch it, and on my
way back hailed a species of van that was passing, and begged the
driver to wait a few moments whilst I just stepped in and paid my
reckoning.

After settling, and pocketing the change, I turned with the
intention of hastening out to the van, when to my astonishment and
indignation the officer an-ested my progress, and with drawn sabre
in hand stood in the door-way and ordered the van to drive oil'
immediately. I was perfectly paralysed. He told me, witli
assumed sternness, that I had been recognised as a notorious
robber and brigand, who had long baffled pursuit, and that I only
exchanged that coffee shop for a dungeon and the galleys for life.
It was in vain for me to expostulate ; menaces and entreaties were
equally futile, as were the many references I gave to some of the
best known and most respected residents of the adjacent town.
His only reply was, that such was always the language of bad
characters. He now ordered two of his men to secure me, by tying
my hands together with a bit of strong cordage. I was forced to
submit tamely to this painful operation ; and the moment that I
was rendered inoffensive, the miscreant seized the scabbard of liis
sword, and beat me about the head and shoulders in a most unmer-
ciful manner. The soldier I had first met with interfered on my
behalf, but he was speedily silenced by his chief, and sent back to
his duty in the guard-house.

How my brain did reel, and my whole frame quiver with an-
guish, as I retreated into a corner of the room, and strained every
muscle in my efforts to disentangle my hands. Sick and faint at
heart, I thought of the long weary hours of nigkt, the cold damp
of the prison, and the fi'ost and sleet of tlie season, but I made

1 1

A>7 ADVENTURE IN THE LEVANT.

247

secret resolutions to keep up my circulation by incessant move-
ment ; while the thoughts of the morrow, and the pleasant faces of
friends cominer to the rescue, cheered me even in this miserv. At
tlie same time I lifted up my heart in prayer to Him whoso mercy
never faileth, whose all-seeing eye was my only witness, and whose
guardianship could save me when no man wa nigh to help me.

The officer and his guards, assisted by the inhuman coffee shop
keeper, held long and earnest counsel together in a language of
which I was utterly ignorant. Meanwhile, as they kept on drink-
ing, hard words and harder blows were aimed at my unoffending
person, and my pockets were ransacked of watch and money.
Time crept on slowly and heavily, while I stood there, bruised
and wounded, with the frosty wind chilling my veins, till I longed
for the arrival of the hour when I should be marched off to prison,
and be at least free of the loathsome proximity of my tormentors.
At length the word of command was given. One Albanian pre-
ceded us with a lantern ; the officer and an armed soldier marched
on each side of me ; and close behind me was the third Albanian,
with a ready-cocked musket to fire at me if I offered the slightest
resistance.

To my surprise, instead of marching towards the town, the party
made a detour and came to the back of the larger of the coffee-
houses ; and there, at that still hour of the night, I watched one
of them as with the lantern he groped about, evidently in search
of something. At length he stopped and beckoned us to approacli :
as we advanced he unlocked a sort of concealed door, which when
opened disclosed to my dismayed eyes a flight of steps descending
into the bowels of the earth. Down these they forced me, and, as
the last man descended, I heard the door close (as I then thought)
upon me and the world for ever. I counted eight steps, and then
we came to another door, which swung heavily on its hinges as the
Albanian forced it open. This led into a stone vault, of about

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248

IIEMAUKAULF ADVENTURES.

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12 i\»('t square by 8 fi^ct high. Opposito to (ho entranro door tliero
wjis ti HO(.*oiul ono^ against which the man with tho loaded muHkct
was slationod, while the lantern-bearer guarded tho door of en-
tran('(\ I could no longer have any doubt as to my fate; but the
love of life was never so dear to me as at that moment. Masterintr
my emotions as well as I could, I warned my nssailants to be aware
of what the consequinices must be, so soon as I should bo missed
by my messnuites and frieiids : I implored them to rememljer that
I was the sole support of my family; in short, I used ev(»rv
description of entreaty and exhortjvtion ; but I might as well hav(^
sp<ikcn to tho winds. The chief fell upon me, armed with a cudgel ;
and, had it not been for the protruding angles of the corm^r into
which 1 had retreated, and tho lowness of the room, both of whicli
aided in warding off the blows, the consequences must have been
fatal. Tired and exhausted, at length he let fall the club, and,
seizing on the sentry's musket, took deliberate aim at my unpro-
tected breast, and pulled the trigger. I heard the steel click, and
then, for a few seconds, which appeared hours to me, all was dark-
ness and delirium.

There was no report ; the gun had missed fire : the last expiring
s})ark of hope was rekindled. I glanced anxiously at the muskot,
and the flint was gone. Eagerly did they seek and grope about for
it on the ground. At this moment I heard the vault open, and
saw a fifth figure descend into the vault : he had evidently been
watching against surprise, and, hearing the turmoil below cease,
jiad imagined all over, and now ccme to claim his share of booty.
The strength of Samson was upon me : with one mighty efTort 1
disentangled my hands ; with a bound I had gained the steps and
dashed the lantern into atoms ; another bound and I was in the
open air. I stopped not to think or look behind, but fled on the
wings of terror over that dark country in the darkest hour of night
I scaled garden walls, fell and was maimed, yet ran on still for my

MY ADVENTURK IN A PINK WOOD.

249

life, for my onemios wero on tlio track. Jt was four oVlock noxt
morning when I reaclind tlie liouso of a friend ; and no sooner liad
I passed tho threshold than I sank down and swooncnl away.

The rest is soon told. Hniised and maimed as J was, I early
next day rcjpaired to the French eonHnl. Jfo at first refused me an
interview; 1 persisted, however, and was at length shown into liis
bed-room. He chose to doubt my word. 1 told him that tiio
Frencli war steamer would soon settle tliat point On this Im
thought better of it, and wrote to the commandant. The subter-
ranean vault was examined, the guilty parties imprisonc^d, and tlio
whole of my statements, together with the medical coHifieates
given me, are to this day to be seen in the archives of tho I'rencli
embassy.

Such was tho Greek's tale. In countries where officials ani
underpaid, there is a continual temptation to resort to secret or
open plunder as a means of increasing their emoluments. I liavc
given tho incident as tending to show an English reader the
advantages he enjoys in his country, compared with those where
tho official guardians of law and order are often the first to violate
them.

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MY ADVENTUKE IN A PINE WOOD.

3Iy last cruise was in new waters, and very cold waters, and on
very important business. It was no less than in pursuit of lius-
siuns, with whom our country was then at war. We failed to catcli
them at Pietropaulovski, and we vainly chased them round tho
peninsula of Kamtschatka into the Sea of Okotsk ; and, as a forlon>.
hope, we rushed to the mouth of the Anioor Kiver in pursuit of
them.

It was well on in June, and yet tlie cold was intense ; and, as wo

250

REMAlUvAIiLE ADVENTURES.

}

If-

roasted alonp:, wo found the rej^ion still wearing its arctic vesture
of line white snow and olive-tinted ice. Tiio service on which wo
were engaged was intensely interesting to all on board our ship,
which was a steam sloop, in fine working order, prej)ared for anv
emergency, provided with machinery for cutting through polar
obstructions, and having a Lancaster gun on her deck. The escape
of our prey was a special hardship, llesolved to do something, we
made for Aien, and, in spite of fog and fi'ost, steered oui* course for
the unknown shores of Saghalien.

Cliinese chartography is in a very crude state, and, worse still,
may be charged with a soupgon of humbugging. Having, there-
fore, no better guide, we took to the old rule of the three /'«, and
by " lead, latitude, and look-out," we proceeded on our anti-Mus-
covite expedition.

It was a regular play at " hide and seek," but without the cry of
" day," or the pleasant hint of " hot and hotter," that enhances the
interest in the true game. We saw no signs of the foe ; no clue
to lead us in our race. The entrance of a harbour, and the grand
promise of shelter in the deeply indented shore, were welcome
sights, as we turned in from open sea to search the waters that
flow round the head of the long island of Saghalien and unite the
Sea of Okotsk with the Gulf of Tartary.

^ly duties were in the civil department of the naval service, and
I therefore enjoyed an amount of leisure not allowed to those em-
ployed in worldng the ship or watching for the Kussians. A square
inch of land is at any time more interesting to me than a thousand
cubic miles of ocean, with all its treasures and beauties. I was
longing for pedestrian exercise, even on an ice-float, when it was
announced that, with next flowing tide, we were to enter a bay
where the Russians were suspected to be secreted. It was an
exciting anticipation, and had the good effect of warming us all up
a little. The very idea of a run on shore promoted our circulation ;

MY ADVENTURE IN A PINE WOOD.

251

(ind it was intensely interesting to find ourselves surmonnting a
lorniiduble sand-bar that protected the inlet, and not one of our
aquadron able to follow us. Alone, we dared the encounter, and
wo had it. We met the ships, but not the foe. It was a blunt,
dull sort of triumph. Tlioro lay before us the enemy's vessels, aban-
doned to our mercy ; nothing to fight with, no one to beat. Wo
just paddled round them, wondering " how they got there," and
by what art and tact they did that whick our fleet was unable to
accomplish.

By this time I was thoroughly tired of Eussians, and all about
them. We had got enough of their forsaken forts, and were weary
of picking up mementoes of unresisted visits to their haunts.
There was something more than disappointment attending all
this useless business ; it was sadly painful. The sight of homes
deserted is more suggestive of tender memories to common men
than " banquet halls " to poets ; and any one who has done a cam-
paign in an enemy's country, will bear witness that it inclines the
feelings more to peace than war. Once, a cradle, bearing the still
warm impression of a baby's form, gave me a strong parental
twitch, and took all desire for "looting" out of my mind, for that
time ; and I could see that it considerably subdued the destructive-
ness of the very boldest of my companions.

But the incidents of our cruise are not my present subject ; and I
pass on to tell how we used our rare powers of penetrating, and
managed to come to close quarters with the land, in a manner it
was evidently quite unused to. Though led by no further traces of
Russians, we entered many creeks and bays. One of these, in lati-
tude 49° N., was of such magnitude, that we determined to explore
it ; and as no hydrographer that we knew of mentions it, we gave it
the name of our hardy little steamer ; and, as we passed the points
of its headlands, we called the capes after each other, according as
the honour of discovering was claimed. A land-locked basin bears

Ml !

■lis

252

REiJAUKAHLE ADVENTURES.

#1 '

]^i

■r'

V .

my patronymic ; aud I judge tliat my brother oflScers were pntiflod
by nimilar connections. There wavS much interest, at least, in our
labours. We were doing sometliing, after all : this sort of work
would record our names in the geographies, if not the histories of
our cliildren.

Wo anchored in a secure haven, between tracts of country in a
perfectly primeval condition. On landing >vith a companion, we
found the soil was still fast in icy bondage, though the short sum-
mer of the region was approaching rapidly. Our road was exces-
sively slippery and dangerous. Often as we took one step forward,
wo glided back two, so our progress was something like circle
sailing. We fetched several points east to make one north, and
our motioii would have been skating if it were not climbing. Sword
canes did duty for leaping poles, and we ascended a declivitous
beach, and arrived on a platform, from which we could view
the interior of the country. As .ar as the eye could see all was
thick wood.

" Glorious primeval forest !" exclaimed I, with suitable gesticnla-
tion. The sound passed so rapidly through the air, that my com-
panion, at a distance of a hundred yards, turned round, as if I had
a string to him and had pulled it.

"Who are you roaring at? I'm not deaf," said he, in a huffy
tone.

The polar phenomena connected with acoustics were not unfami-
liar to me. I had been in an atmosphere like this before ; but it
was my friend Duff's first realization of the curiosities of hearing in
high latitudes. On shipboard they are not so perceptible, pneu-
matic forces having many deadening influences, arising from the
combination of depressing circumstances. I do not remember that
it is much remarked by sailors, though certainly we often notice
the distinctness with which we hear noises, especially during night,
on board.

MY ADVENTURE IN A PINE WOOD.

253

We went on, walking briskly over a thick mat of vegetation, now
crusted with ice ; and a few steps brought us into a brnshwood that
was less subdued, and more rebellions against our aggressions,
l^ho energy necessary to penetrate these barriers is often the oflf-
apring of the irritating effect of cold on the system. A lazier fellow
than Duft* does not sleep in a hammock ; yet he rose to the occasion
this time, and it amazed me to see him take arms and legs against
this sea of bushes, and by opposing rend them.

Once in for it, we gaily gave push for push, and bore all the rubs
and scratches that awaited our endeavours on every side. J^og-
rose thickets were struggled through, junipers grasped at, chrysan-
themums waded into, and, among all these, we saw many little
plants that we had known in childhood. Wood blossoms gleamed in
the openings our feet made ; and in the soundings, through vege-
table deposits, of our depths in leaf mould and height over true
soil, we saw some lovely forms, recognised as natives also of other
lands, and seen before in far diiferent circumstances. The Alpine
plants of the colder temperate zone and sub-arctic growth were
about our path abundantly, and it was pleasant to find them thriv-
ing and surviving in the rigours of a clime that must soon be borne
by that all-enduring being, man.

" Dog-rose pie is very good. Is there anything to eat in rhodo-
dendrons ?" inquired Dufl*, eagerly.

" Can't say : there's no knowing what our cook may got out of
them ; let us try him." We set to work, and buds as large as the
biggest cauliflower in Covent Garden market were piled up. Vale-
rian is not an agreeable potherb, but it is a very useful medicine,
so I gathered a heap of it ; and altogether we had a collection that
would have loaded a costermonger's cart, though probably it would
have tempted veiy few customers to forsake Brussels sprouts and
curled greens.

Leaving our prizes to await our return, we proceeded on our walk.

K ^

l>:^

1.1

'' ; I

254

REMARKABLE AUVI^NTITRKS.

nnd rertclu'd ft jKmit wlioro tho p^aro and beauty of the birclics
c'laimod spoeial n^p^ard ; a profusion of larrrheH, willows, and nzal(\'is
adornod tho skirt of tlio wood, but no tribo of shnibs claimod our
att(^ntion so much as tlio spiral, dartinj^, sky-aspirinp^ biroh. Ft
thrust its slender steins before us evorywlier(», and yet it rose to an
altitude quite surpassing nny estimate I had over fonncd of iU
pretensions.

AH this time wc could see our floating homo, whenever we lookod
back; but, as wo warmed to our exercise, and fell to admiriuii-
])ljnits, shrubs, and trees, we gave over retrospection, and pn^sst d
i'orward.

Our stomachs told dinner hour, and Duflf thought of unpacking
his knapsack. 1 was so busy examining tho trees, that the mo-
nitions of my appetite were in danger of being disregarded;
and as I thought of splendid specimens of Pinus larix, P. ccmbrn,
l\ abies, and various and sundry other wonders of coniferous
growth, he babbled of "firewood," and condemned the whole
plantation, as not comparable, in fuelish qualities, to the package
of charcoal he had brought in his portable stove.

The most advanced pioieer in the march of discovery does not
get out of the rank of the appliances of modern science. We sat
down to a snug little dinner. We had very accurately apportionetl
our provisions to our wants ; there remained no fragments ; and
this was a source of regret, as we were anxious to cultivate tlic
acquaintance of monkey- like squirrels, of species unknown to us,
that were coming about us in rather immerous variety. Squirrels,
martens, and foxes were very plentiful in the neighbourhood, and
the presence of a few bears might be suspected.

The overhanging branches teemed with life. Little ugly
animals, like rats, were running up and down, and over and across,
and their movements were very exciting; one could not help
expecting them to mistake a person for a tree : but this did not

■MY ADVKNTUKK IX A IMNK WOOD.

Imppon ; and, to our anrpriso, tlioy did not nin up our ]v^h or dai't
over our Hhouldrrs. Tho 8quirrols wens Injjfhly jirniisiiiL:", l(•HpiIl,L^
und cliinl)iii;r, (Uid cxliibitinp^ tlioir rpu'or sliupos and rii:;nn'S. TIiin
opcnpiod, wo scarcely noticed that tlio cvcninjj; ^v;l • closing,
although it was time to think of rcturninj^ to our shi[).

Dull' had undertaken to mark trcMS as wo camo on, and I hiid
left it to him to do, occupying my mind entirely in ol)s(;rvati(ii).
"Jo him, therefore, fell tho duty of finding tho way home; and, to
my consternation and his own, ho professed utter incompetence to
perform it. Wo were bad backwoodsmen, could not follow our
own trail, nor hold on to the least clue to help us to retrace onr
path.

Both of us had forgotten our pocket compaases; and wc Icll
truly disconsolate, as wo withdrew our respective hands from a vain
search for them in their usual places.

The spot where we stood was closely embowered in jtiiir
boughs. Between tho interlaced tracery of the inniuncniltlc
branches camo glimpses of fading light, and obscurity enveloped
our minds and persons. Neither of us could tell, for the life of us,
from which point wo had entered the seclusion, and what opening
we should take to get out of it.

" Wo came in by those trees with the rusty arms sticking out
there," was Duff's opinion, while I was as positive that those faced
me as I arrived through an opposite aperture.

Our contradiction was strangely amicable ; we were each so
anxious to prove the other right, that we accepted any evidence as
better than our own memory, and, to arrive at certainty, pursued
every investigation suggested by any idea that crossed either of
our minds.

Round every tree we sought for " our mark ;" and, so con-
fusingly similar were the whole lot, that we found it impossible to
decide where our labour begun or ended.

:;f

25()

UEMAEKABLE ADVENTURES.

5i '

j;.^

m, :

111 tin's state of perplexity we adopted every expedient to rais^
a Inimau sound above the din of vocalization that in(,Teased as
darkness thickened. Wo called, shouted, liallooed, roared,
screamedj bawled, yelled, and produced oral effects that would
have terrified every rational hearer. Though, at the time, they
seemed only ordinary efforts of nature to obtain the help of fellow
creatures, the memory of tliem is yet lingering somewhere in th.'
ear ; and, whenever I recall it, ray teeth are set on edge at the
thought of the sound.

The I'oliage over us grew horribly dense. It was shutting down
lik(^ a close cover. We felt at the bottom of a depth. An id<»ii
arose that we might reach the snrfoce by using our mast-heading
[towers, and, going up a tree, to try to look a-head. I was the tirst
to mount, and the climbing was unparalleled in my experience, ,i-
boy or man.

Shoving my shoulders through a tangled web of pines, I got a
view of the world, in thai locality, as it lay under the strangr-
looking heavens that encircle the northern parts of our earth.
The sky over our happy England is a very different thing from the
expanse that met my gaze as I ?merged from my leafy bath. Bui
it was not above there I was seeking for li^Ip ; it was for anythiUgC
that I could find beneath it to rest my hopes of home on, tliat 1
eagerly used my straining vision.

About me on every side, far as eye could reacli, stretched a vast,
dull, unbrokrn, monotonous, slightly undulating, but immcvubly
still, region ( )f thick wood ! A world of trees ! No sea ! No
.shi]) ! No hope !

I came do»vn by m) gravity, figuratively and literally. I forget
the particulars of my descent, though my person and clothing
retained the inarks thereof for some time ; but the remembmnce
of the heavy heart whieL* sank me to z^^ro, will never leave me. i
stood agMin beside my poor companion. A^'aiu we }»HUHed, and.

MV ADVENTPKE IN A PINE WOOD.

ed as
mrod.
would

follow
ill til.'
at the

; dowu
\\ id«';i
euding
be iivst

got a
vaiigf-

eartli.

lorn tii*^-

Bui

vtliiiig

that 1

a vast,
^vubly

forget
Lothing
Ibrance

we.

uftor silent meditiition, it seemed that we both arrived at tlie same
e(»nclusiou, in the same lengtli of twae; and the same words bni*8t
simultaneously from botli o\u- lips.

" We re done for !" was our spoken sentiment at last ; and we
then confessed that, from the moment that we discovered our error
alxmt the tree marks, we had been under that impression.

We were not single men. I believe that, at that moment, we
sltottld have been happier if we had. It was of our wives and littki
ones we tliought, as our doom davmed on us, and about them we
/groaned, as the fate we dreaded seemed sealed against us.

We se|iarated, '.nstinctively, tacitly.

I withdrew round a tree trunk, and, leanhig my head against its
well clothed side, felt my brain swim, and an indescribable sensation
come over me. I felt as if I must cr)\ No consciousness of how I
vented my emotions remains with me. Never since, or before, has
such a commotion occurred in mv soul, or disturbed the functions
of my mortal frame, i have been in the heat of action, without
frvv'-rvinj:^ a nerve. I have sailed in storms that threatened awful
dtivth; but the placid misery of that moment is unitjue in my life,
and I tru«t that the gloomy shadow that heralds the coming of the
king of teri'ors will nev*n' again l)riug me sueh horror. My present

trouble was soon lost in thoughts of liome, and of eternity

(Trathiallv, unc(Mwio<Lriu -t intervener!.

The l<-ud boom of a gum ranj^ the leafy canopy of otu* living
tomb. 1 awoke and stood upon my feet. Where? Tlow?
What?

Everv demonstration that liad or had not s^'uso in it, came
milling from the two pair frf" lifis that lately were so sperehless.
We embrafed ca'-h other viol^ttly. and were for soine miiiutr.s as
inmnipetent from joy as we liad U*eii irom fear.

Anotlier jrun ! — and vet another: and oil, iiow close! At «

»ur

ii'H

and, ■ right side, undoubtedly! Manfully we dashed tiiro igh the thicket,

2r.<s

T^KMAllK A T) 1 , E A 1 )VENTTTr.ER.

and a few powerful pushes got us out of it ; and there we saw out-
own old brine, offering a friendlier home than the earth we had
coveted so earnestly.

About a mile to westward sat our smiling vessel, waving us to
a warm shelter, with the tongue by which she tells her will to the
enemy, her want to the friend, and declares her respect for her
ruler.

It was quickly perceptible that my mast-head experience was
defective. I had blundered egregiously in taking my bearings
from the tree top. The inlet was a hollow, and I had forgotten to
estimate it as a sunk fence in the landscape. There it was, under
our lee, near enough to reach in half an hour, even with all our
impediments.

Duff and I, in silent concord, cast a veil over the whole circum-
stance. We did not even speak of it to each other ; and from that
day to this I have never told the sufferings of our adventure in the
pine wood to even my most intimate friend.

iff

REMINISCENCES OF THE YELLOW FEVER AT

CARTHAGENA.

About the middle of the peninsular war, I obtained a commission
iu the military service of his majesty King George iii., and was
ordered to join the army under the command of Lord Wellington.
It was a bright and exciting event for a youth of my temperament
to find himself in that land of chivalry and romance — sunny Spain.
Without dwelling on my sojourn in the delightful city of Cadiz,
>vhere I disembarked, suffice it to say that I was at length detached

THE YELLOW FEVER AT rAT^THAGEXA.

250

to Cartliagena, the once eminent seaport and naval arsenal on the
coast of Murcia, in the Mediterranean.

At the period to which this narrative refers, there was an
Enf^lish garrison at Carthagena, the presence of which infused a
little fresh life into a city formerly so celebrated for its safe and
spacious harbour, gi-and arsenal, strong fortifications, beautiful
edifices, and busy, prosperous population. Now, however, it was
gloomy, and comparatively deserted. In the magnificent basin of
tlie arsenal, formerly crowded with noble men-of-war, there was
not a single ship ; the capacious warehouses for naval stores were
empty ; grass was growing in the principal streets of tlio city ; and
the population, which in bygone times consisted chiefly of public!
functionaries connected with the dockyard, and the numerous
artisans and people of all grades employed therein, together with a
large number of merchants, tradesmen, and so forth, was reduced
to a few remnants of tlie varioiiS grades and tlieir families. T\u^
total destruction of the Spanish navy at the battle of Trafalgar, was
a death-blow to the prosperity of Carthagena.

The arrival of a British force of about a thousand men was
liailed with delight by the half-famished inhabitants. The supjilies
needed for the English garrison were extensive ; our officers spent
their money freely, and the gloomy city soon began to wear a
brighter aspect. The few families of any standing wlio still
remained, threw their doors open to receive our ofllcers at their
tertulias, or conversaciones, which do not entail any expense on the
part of the hosts ; and when the extent of the general privations
became gradually known, measures were taken by command of
the gallant general in command of the British forces, for giving
relief in a way that could not wound the most sensitive minds. In
this he was zealously seconded by the officers.

The English soon became especial favourites at Carthagena.
The coffee houses and public promenades wer«> well frequented ;

:^1

;!!

i i]

2fi0

REMARKABLK ADVENTURES.

III ■

ii'

ill

m ■

inirtics wcro urrungcd to visit pic1m'f'S(|no spots, citlior at llio foot
of the inoimtuins in the vicinity, or in little sandy coves on the
borders of the beauteous Mediterranean Sea. Sheltered from tlie
seorching sun in cool grottoes, the chatty gi-oups partook of the
provisions they had brought with them, and returned in the calm
refreshing evenings to the city ; the ladies in small vehicles call(?d
iartanaa, gaily painted, and covered with awnings of pure white
<iinvas, adorned with borders and tassels of bright colours ; while
the gentlemen rode on horseback. How joyously we caracolled by
the side of the tartanas^ drawn by spirited handsome mules,
excited by their jingling collar-bells, and filled with seiioritas,
accompanied by their parents or elderly relatives ! How coquet-
tishly the fans were shaken at us ! And what a number of silly
things we youngsters must have said and done ! But life is a
chequered scene ; and we were soon to receive a solemn lesson of
its uncertainties, and of the wisdom of being prepared in its
brightest seasons for contact with the realities of another world.

In the midst of this delightful state of things, rumours arose
that some cases of the epidemia — the yellow fever — had occurred
in the city. We, the English, paid but little attention to these
reports. Not so the Spaniards, however. The recollection of the
frightful scourge, which was emphatically termed " the great
epidemia," a few yeai-s previously, was too vivid not to occasion the
utmost alarm at the bare probability of its return ; so that, in
spite of every effort to conceal it, incipient panic was visible in
almost every countenance.

Neither at that, or any other period of my life, have I had the
slightest dread of infection or disease of any kind ; and I did all I
could to rally ray Spanisii friends out of their very natural appre-
hensions. At length, however, the hideous pest broke out with
the utmost fury, carrying off daily large numbers of every class.
All who could leave the place did so immediately ; but those formed

1)1

•!■:,, i

V^_

TIIK YELLOW FEVEU AT CAUTHAOENA.

L>()1

a very small portion iiulencl of the helploss inlitibitants. Tli«>
British troops were (iW marclicd oat of the eity, uiul lunited titlicr
in the two commanding forts of Atalaya and Galeras, luiilt on tw(»
lofty rocks commanding the liarbonr, or cantoned in miseralih,'
villages at some distance from the city walls.

Cicneral Koss, our gallant commander, soon fell a victim to lils
untiring efforts to secure the health of the English troops. I was
quartered, with a brother oflicer, in a diI:^;-idattMl liut in a li.ill-
ruined hamlet, near the foot of one of the rocky eminences just
mentioned, and w(5 made ourselves as ha])py as we could. Strict
orders were given that neither officers nor men should enter thi^
infected city ; but I confess that more than once I nninaged to
elude this regulation.

Never shall I forget the deadly aspect of the silent and nearly
deserted streets. Almost all the shops were closed ; and ever and
anon I came opposite a house with the words ** Aqui hay con-
tagio " — " There is contagion here " — chalked on the closed street-
door in largo characters ; and wan-looking men were to be seen
creeping noiselessly along, carrying rude coffins or boxes, con-
taining corpses, to be deposited in carts sfcitioned at certain points
for the conveyance of the dead to the cemetery, about a mile from
the city.

After a time, my duties required that I should remove to a sort
of hut — a goatherd's, I think, it must have formerly been — on th(!
slope of a rugged hill, looking down upon the port. It consisted
only of four plank walls, a crazy door, and oue small ungla/(Hl
window ; the roof was slanting, also formed of planks. Before
going there I had felt not quite myself, as to healthy sensiitions,
but I thought little or nothing about it. Soon, however, 1 was
severely attacked by the epidt^mia. The British medical officers
attached to the hospital ship in the harbour paid me every attention
in their [)ower, almost worn out as they were by the incessant calls

•V >

262

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

H';!

'■;fA

.'J

#;■!

it- -

upon their time and skill. I hud a Portuguese servant, who had
been with me some time. I do not think ho hud a hard master.
He was a man of about thirty ; swarthy, but good-lookuig enough,
having a bushy head of hair, and immense wliiskcrs, both quite
black. My bed consisted of a can\ us palliasse, stuffed with chopped
straw, and a bolster of the same materials. The bedstead was a
cot frame, standing upon four short legs. Tliere was no flooring to
the hut — the bare earth only ; imd very glad I was to get such
quarters, quite good enough for any soldier, from a general to a
drummer.

Well, I was very ill, though quite sensible, thi'oughout the
raging fever. I had an impression that I should not recover from
the attack. One afternoon, when I was at the worst, my servant, who
— no doubt fearing the contagion — had kept as much aloof froni
me as he could all the morning, vanished by the crazy door, and
did not return for many hours. I was fea TuUy weak, and soon a
deadly sickness came on — that vomito negro, or black vomit, which
is considered to be, almost invariably, a fatal symptom. I con-
trived, with gi'eat diflSculty, to get my head to the edge of the
palliasse, but my face fell upon the dusty floor. I had no streiigtli
to raise myself. I thought I was dying, and I wished I could bend
a loving message to my dear mother in England. I felt indigiuiut
at the conduct of my servant, of whom I had taken every care;
when he had been ill not long before, in deserting me at so critical
a moment : and I think this indignant feeling, under rro> idencc,
saved my life. It stimulated me, when, under other circum-
stances, I should have quietly sunk to death. That is the ordinary
characteristic of the last moments of those who are seized with this
ilire malady.

Wliilst in this state, I heard the frail door creak. Slowly,
slowly, it cjpened ; and, at last, the large hairy head of my servant
protruded through tliu aperture; the great black eyes [)eering

THE YKLLOW FEVER AT CAETHAHENA.

2C>o

iiiquLsitively ubout the place. No doubt ho thought I must bo
dead, aud came to see what spoil ho could get. I managed to
make a beckoning motion ; the creature advanced, and I bade
him, in a feeble voice, to lift mo up and lay me upon the palliasse.
Then I got him to wash my lips and face, covered with saturated
dust, after which I fell into a doze. How long it lasted I cannot
say ; but, on awaking, all I felt was extreme helplessness : no
pain — no nausea.

Daily, but very slowly, I gained some strength, and I was even-
tually removed to the small village of Santa Lucia, on the edge ol"
a little bay, or inlet at the foot of the harbour. I had a room on
the ground floor of a small dwelling adjoining the road, leading,
amongst other places, to the public cemetery. My window was
protected by iron bars, as is the custom in Spain ; and as soon as I
could crawl about, I passed a good part of each day there, inhaling
the invigomting sea air. The heat was intense. Few persons
passed along the silent road. There was, however, one vehicle
which regularly went to and fro twice a day — the dead-cart. It
was drawn by a lean, sorry horse ; and the driver was a sallow,
unwholesome looking man, who always sat on one of the shafts,
very often eating bread and garhc, as he drove slowly along
towards the cemetery. The cart was a covered one, but tlio sid^.s
wore formed of railings, through which the dead bodies, liciij)ed
upon each other, could be partially seen. Of course I tiied !(>
avoid being at the window when the cart jwissed by; but as it cam*!
at irregular hours, and by a turn in the road close by, the bickeii-
ing sight sometimes came upon me unawares.

One day I witnessed a very curious scene from my baiTed
window. It was a funeral procession. No doubt the defunct hud
been a person of some note, to be thus carried, alone, to his last
earthly liouic. There was a lioman Catholic priest in his vest-
ments, and a little boy shaking a KUiall tinkling btil from timo to

IIEMAIIKAIJLE ADYKNTURES.

I: .;

.1/

i; i

!
( ,

tiino. 'rhcm canio tin* rofTiii, carried on men's should(Ms ; tlie pro-
cf'ssion I)oing closed by six poor misuiablc men, clad in worn brown
cloth cloaks. Each man carried a lonj^, thick, lighted wax torch ;
Mild as th(^ hv<t passed near my window, ho suddenly turned his
back to the others, drew forth from under his cloak a large clasp-
knife, with which ho cut off about half a foot of the thick waxen
torch, put it and the knife in his ix)cket; and then, holding the
torch by the inside of his cloak, so as to render its curtailment im-
])erceptible, he turned round again and gravely took his place as
the last in the procession. All this was done in a few seconds.
His roguery, ill-timed as it was, caused me at the moment to laugh
heartily, which, no doubt, did me a world of good.

The last trick Antonio, my servant, played me, was to nearly
starve my horse to death. I bought him, before I became ill, of a
German officer, who had deserted from the French army, com-
manded by Marshal Soult. Siich a horse ! He was full sixteen
hands high, had a grand head and neck, but a most extraordinarily
hollow back. His forelegs were very good, but the hind ones
unusually short — cow-like. His gait was therefore very singular.
T, of course, often asked Antonio if he drew the forage ration,
regularly fed, groomed, and took care of the horse, and how he was
giving on ; to all of which questions he answered satisfactorily.
When I felt strong enough to walk out, I ordered him to bring the
horse to the door for my inspection. The stable was a good way
oft". After a long delay he appeared, leading a quadruped whose
(jenns it would have puzzled the savans of the Zoological Gardens
to decide upon. It looked to me something between a giraffe and
a bear. It was covered with long matted hair, had a profuse dusty
main and tail, and was rather dragged than led along, so weak and
exhausted it was.

•MVliat'sthis?" cried!

*• El cabiillo, sefior — the horse, sir."

Mi '

A NKJHT IN TASMANIA.

205

pro
rown
Tcli ;
d his
lasp-
axeii
g i]w
t ini-
ce as
•onds.
laugh

learly
i, of a
, com-
ixteeu
narily
ones
gular.
ration,
lewas
)rily.
ig the
way
rhose
jtrdens
le and
Idusty
Ik and

«. .--^

''Jaballo 1" said I.

i^i, senor — your liorse."

Tho poor animal tunied its languid oyes towards me, as much as
to say, " You don't know me, master, but I do you. Do give mo
something to eat."

I at once saw how matters stood. Antonio had drawn tlio
forage, and had sold tho greater portion for his own benefit ; more-
over, he had never groomed the poor animal, whose coat had grown
till, as I said before, it looked more like that of u bear, or a Hhaggy
dog. The dishonesty and cnielty of the man disgusted me, and 1
threatened to hand him over to tho provost marshal for severe
punishment. I instantly made him feed the horse, and afterwards
groom him before my own eyes, and ordered him to do so daily.
When the poor animal had had a moderate feed, and a due com-
plement of fresh water, and tho currycomb had been properly
used, ho turned his head towards me again, as though he would
have said, " Thank you, master : I shall soon be able to cany you
cheerily."

At length the fearful malady wore itself out ; and, ere long, I
returned to Cadiz for tho benefit of my health, which soon became
quite re-established.

A NIGHT IN TASMiVNIA.

Almost immediately under our feet, on the other side of the world,
and only separated from the great continent of New Holland by a
narrow strait, is a British settlement, that, with many claims to the
attention of Englishmen, has hitherto excited but little of it, and
which appears to be now entirely lost in tho ruddy gleam of gold
that, with increasing brightness, shines from its sister coloni'is.

;'.n

2(j(;

ItEMAUKAULE A DVLNTUUEK.

I,)

t ^ i

Van Diemeii'H IjuiuI, or, to ^'ivo tho island its nofter iind more
modern mim<^, Tasnuiniii, is the most southern land inhabited by
JOnnjpeans. From Tasman's Head to the Antarctic Polo stretches
a <lrOary waste of ocean, in which adventurous voyagers have vainly
sought for habitable land ; finding only volcanic islands bedded in
enormous ice-fields, their open craters rising in bleak sterility above
the green continents of frozen water, tind belching forth even here
great masses of red-hot scoria}, streams of molten lava, columns of
lurid flame, and clouds of black and heavy smoke. Sir James
Iloss describes the scene presented by this strange region of con-
trasted frost and fire au unequalled in its rugged desolation, and
surpassing all conception in its gloomy grandeur and its terrible
sublimity.

]jut Tasmania, the voyager's last resting place before encounter-
ing theso terrific solitudes, has little in common with them in
scenery and appearance. The first view of the island is, indeed,
unprepossessing, for its cliffs are high n 1 rugged, and along its
coasts are scattered numerous small islets, barren rocks rising in
fantastic shapes from the green sea that boils around them, climbing
theii' dark pinnacles in lines of snowy foam and glittering spray,
lint a nearer view dispels the idea of sterility, and conveys to the
approaching stranger a more trutliful notion of the fertile land that
spreads in graceful undulations from the sea. As his vessel sails
across Storm Bay, and, leaving the lofty lighthouse on Brune
Island to the right, enters D'Entrecasteaux Channel, passmg the
i'atal Acteon rocks, a succession of magnificent scenery opens befor<3
him. On either hand rises a range of hills, clothed to the waters
cdii(^ with noble trees; tho shady foliage hiding the land, and
spreading over every ridge, crowning the loftiest summits with its
dark verdure. Rccherclie Bay, South Port, l*ort Esperance, and
other minor harbours, form deep indentations on tlie wistern ahfjrc,
and pierce the hills in long vistas of surpas^sing beauty, disclosing

A NKJHT IN TAHMANIA.

*267

more
i by
tclies
aiiily
3d iu
ibove
L here
ms of
Fames
[ cou-
u, and
jrriblo

►unter-
em in
indeed,
)ng its
iing in
junbing
spray,
to the
d tbat
1 sails
Brune
luig the
before
water's
d, and
Ml its
ce, and

closing

in tl)(» distance' otlicr fiors of wood-crowned eminences, stretrhing
away in wavy lines tliat end abruptly in Koin<^ l«»fty snow-ca])p<»d
mountain, or stooj) with gentUj declination to some inlan<l ]»lain.
The lonjr island r»f Hrune forms tin* riu:ht bank of the channel,
commencing at its entranc<^ in a bold In.'adland, that rises pn--
cipitously from the occsan, and continuing in a chain of hills that
sinks and coiitra<'ts to a Hat and narrow isthmus in the middle of
the i>Ian(l, but apju^ars again as we approach its northern ex-
tremity. Alons; its edi'e lie several snniU jn'cen islets, eacdi oiK^thi^
property of some lonely farmer; and on the main island cleared
farms appear at intervals, and flocks of sheej) and lields of waving
corn give evidence of settlements and proofs of human toil.

Turning again to the left, then; aj^pears a wid<j bay forming th<!
mouth of the river Huon, on the banks of which are several farms,
though this part of the country is not thickly settled, the; land
being covered with heavy timber. At the entrance of the lluon is
a singularly }»erforated rock, called Arch Island, standing like a
solitary bridge, through which the waters race incessantly; its
sunnnit is covered with flocks of scrciming gulls and solemn
penguins ; whilst high above it soars the pelican, stooping occasion-
ally from his circling flight, and dropping with unerrhig aim upon
th<^ nnsuspecting fish beneath him. A little higher, after ])assing
Three-hut-pomt, the channel narrows, and a line of buoys marks
the existence of some hidden reef or sand-bank. Above the
entrance of Ijong 13ay, which stretches away to the right, lies
Crreen Island, a little spot presented to a woman by the goveiii-
ment, as a reward for her heroic conduct in defendhig th(3 hut
which she occupied upon it against the attack of a gang of armed
bushrangers. Nearly opposite to it is Oyster Cove, lately the )•( si-
dence of the remnant of the aboriginal inhabitants of Ta.sjii;inia,
once the fiercest and most warlik'; tribe of the south.

Their continual aggressions on the settlers, the terrible outrages

M«

268

IIEMAIIKADLK ADVENTURES.

;•(■■:<

!li

ill

committed by them, and tbo equally savage retaliations of the
wiiitos, induced Sir George Arthur, at that tim(« goveni(n* of tlio
crolony, to attempt the capture of the whole nation. 'Hia extra-
ordinary talent and ability displayed by that gentleman in the
general administration of his government has not sheltered him
from the ridicule incurred by this impracticable scheme. Jle pro-
jx)sed to extend a line of men across the north end of the island,
and, marching them towards the south, gradually drive the natives
into a corner, where they might bo surrounded and eventually
made prisoners. Every man in tlio colony was calh^l out, even
including the convicts ; and the force thus raised was divided into
companies of ten, with a captain to each. Great preparations were
made, and immense expense incurred; every precaution, indeed,
was taken that the military experience of the governor and the
many old officers in the colony could suggest, to ensure the success
of the expedition. The settlers began to congratulate themselves
on the probability of their getting rid of their vindictive and much-
dreaded neighbours, and willingly offered their services to the
government. But the mountain brought forth a mouse. After a
month's marching through the bush, in an almost impassable
countiy, over the tops of mountains, across risers and deep gulleys,
through forests rendered impervious by thick tangled undergrowth
and matted jungie, the line of valorous heroes closed in upon the
enemy, and discovered^ to fheir astonishment and dismay, that they
had succeeded in capturing and taking prisoner — one poor black
fellow 1 The cunning of the savage had fairly outwitted the wisdom
of the white man ; and " Were you out in the line ?" is still a
standing joke against an old settler.

But that which the united force of the whole colony was unable
to effect, one man successfully accomplished. A gentleman who
was familiar with the habits and language of the natives of Tjis-
mania volunteered to effect^ unaided^ the peaceable capture of

A XIOHT TN T ARMANI A.

269

e\ery native in tho (Milony. Ills oftbr was c^agorly accopt<*tl by tho
{i;()voruniont, and li(» immediately eomnn'nccd his mission. H(»
Hoon snccoeded in porsnading a jmrty of the Maek fellows to aecom-
j)any liim to town, where they were lodged for safe custody in gaol ;
and the number of prisoners was increased by every fresh expe-
dition of the same individual, until the country was thoroughly
cleared of its ancient occupants. An isolated building at the top
of Elizabeth-street, in Hobart Town, was at first appropriated to
their use, and hero for a short time they wovo carefully guarded ;
but it was found necessary to remove them from the neighbourhood
of the town, and they were ultimately conveyed toFlinder's Island,
in Bass Straits, where a regular establishment was formed for their
accommodation.

The poor children of th(> forest, though they pined at first in
their island prison for that pcn'fect freedom which in their own wild
hills they had enjoyed, soon became accustomed to their position,
and gradually adopted the costume and the habits of their warders,
though still retaining many of their old barbarous customs.
Happily, the island abounded in the game which they had been
used to pursue in their own country, and this in some measure con-
soled them for their exile ; and no doubt the opportunity of obtain-
ing food without exertion would bo in (^xaet accordance with their
taste for indolence. But their numbers rapidly decreased, and at
length became so small, that it was thought unnecessary to keep up
the expensive establishment on Flinder's Island ; and the remnant
of the tribe was removed to Oyster Cove.

A few more years will witness the extinction of the race, and
then another, though a nameless nation, may be added to the long
list of those that have been swept away by tliat gr(\it human wave,
which, rising in one little island, has pom'cd across earth's ocean
barriers, bearing on its crest the ripened fruits of centuries of toil
and thought ; prolific seeds, from which have spnmg new saplings

i' ,'H

270

IIKMAinvATirE AHVEXTVIIKS.

i i> ■

m ■ i

striking' llicir <'lini.;inL!: ronts i\o('\) in tlio viri-in soil, und lilliiin;
llu'ir inajt'slic Ijcads towards hcuNrii; wliilst tlicir \vi({<( l)raneli<'K
spiviul iicrrjfc.s whole continciifs, and drop in distant isUiuds now and
living' frnit, tlio L^orms of t'uturo and sdil groitcr nations.

lUit our ship is pt\ssin^ rapidly up th<^ narrow (dumnel, opening
out on cither side now bays and ])r<'tty inlets. Crossing the r.ioath
of North-west Bay, we [)as8 IxMieath 3loui i liOAvis, a hij>[li fill, on
whieh is a somajfhore, one of a lino of t(deti:ra))hs erected between
lloljart Town and J V>rt Arthur, and wijieh luis alrea<iy signalled
to town notiee of our arrival. AVe now round tlie norilKTii extre-
niity of Ihinn'^ Island, and enter Ihe noble river Derwent, or r.ither
the ai'ui of till' 8ca into whieh the Derwent falls at llobart Town.
In a f( w minutes w(! obfaiin the first view of tlic town, and a seeno
of <'\ti'aordinary beauty spreads before us. TIu? contracted ehan-
nr] appeurs to expand into a magnificent lake, the narrow otitlet
i'losin!>' Ixihind us, aiid the wid(>r entranep bv Storm liav hidden for
a niontent by the intervening land. (Mose to us, stafting abruptly
lr<nu the shore, is a range of low liills, thickly wooded, gmdually
increasing in height as it exten<ls inland, until, rising to th»' top of
Aloinit ?s'''lson, tlie chain links the great admiral's Tiamesako to a
huge iVouhirg njoijntain, bearing tin? no]>le luune of Wellington.
Appiirently at tin* foot of .Blount Wollingioit, though in reality
four miles (Vom it, stuids the rai)ital of the island, )>uilt on gently
ri-iing grouuil, at the head of a bi'autifnl inlet of the river — Sulli-
\an's (.'ovj'. '.l'h(r U])per part of the town seems to cn'cp into the
forest, and to meh' away among the trtes; the hill on which it
stiuids still rising above the houses, imtil it mingles with the dis-
tant ranges that sweep in niajestie eurv<'s from the crest of the
towering mountain. Pretty villas are seen nestling timong the
trees; and occasional gaps jji tht^ thick timl)er diselose green
fields, ridieviniir with their verdure the darker hu(>s of the 8oml>ro
forest.

A NIGHT IN TARMAN'fA.

271

U't

lu iho cove ar<-> many filii[)s at aiu'lior, aiul alon^'sidc xU^ wliarfs
otln.Ts arc <lis<*li;ir<^iji;4; <»>' rcccivin;^ ••ar<^^(». On a Mmall ^rccn «Mni-
McJK-e at the extremity of a point of land tliaf strctclus troni the
town towards the ma is the hattcry ; and i'nnn licnco a lino of hirp^o
warohouses skirts i.ho wharf, joined at ri<j^ht anj^k'S by a range of
K>fty ston(?-fro»itod bnildinji^H, facing (h"ro(;tIy down iUo riv*'r, and
<*onstituting the custoni-lioiiHe, ))08t-<)flice, <tc. To the right ol'
tiu'jsc, on a small hill, the slope of wliich has hccii ciit away to form
a wharf, stands th ^ gov«u*nor'f< lionse, hiddeji by a profu>i(Mi of trees
and shriibs. IJent-atii are th*' comniisfiiuiat ^>res ?^ud other bnild-
higK, and beyond them the government domain terminators abrnpily
in a l)aro gni^sy point, pas*^^ wliich the river, iiarrmveil Uj half it»»
previouH width, iiows genti) on. From hence; the eye, restijig for
a moment ou Mount Direction, a very singular and precipitous hill,
seen in tlie <listiince, looks again on new ranges of hills, rising
above each other in tieis, all <()veretl by the sauK* evergn-eii
mantle, or sweeping to tlu> sea in deep cultivated valley", that end
in pretty bays enilm)id«'red round by narrow strips of ])cbbly b« acli.

Ah tlit< ship drops h(;r anchor in the cl(»ar wattus o\' the cove,
numerous boats crowd round her, ofTering th<'ir services to convey
the passengi.Ts ashore, ^riio stranjicr on landijig is ph-asantly dis-
appoint(Hl at discovering that, alt.r a v >yH'^t; tti' n»';tily sixteen
thousand miles, ln> has suddenly step|»od into a pn-tty Knglish
country town, instiuid of the wild savage wilderness in whicii he
half i'XjK'cted to be thrown. The wide ma"u<!amised streets, cross-
ing each other at right angles, extend the whole length and breadth
id' the town ; some of them continuing their course into the bush
beyond it. The shops, with their plate-glass windows, and display
of Ih'itish manufactures ; th<* J'iUglish niotle of <lress. and hai»j»y
home-nmde faces ; the J.ondon-built carriages and brewejs' dravs:
the stiiring })lacards, with great hitters and many notes of admira-
tion, announcing "tremendous sai'iiliccs" aud sales by au(;ti«.»n ;

272

U EM ARK ABLE ADVENTURES.

-.4

bills of aimisn'inent, and missionary niootin_L!fs— evorythinp^ aronnd
hiui, Fpoaks of iiomo and lOnglish custoniH; and the occasional
appearance of a verandali and a wooden house, or a glimpse of the
distant hills, alone reminds him that ho is a denizen of a new conn-
try, a wanderer in a stranp^e land. Never was the oft-qnoted sayinj^
of (^mnt Strzelecki more fully verified: "Wherever the Eng-
lishman estahlishos himself, there does he reproduce his native
country."

TJie climate of Tas.nania, too, resembles in some meas^ire that of
liUgland, though milder and more agreeable. It possesses all the
beauties without the drawbacks of that of Australia, — the same
genial temjKM'nture and clear atmosphere, without the winter deluges
of rain, or the long drouglits and parching winds of summer. The
hilly nature^ of the country i'>u])[)lies numerous streams of pur*^
wat<'r, and the soil of the valleys and the hill-sides is most fertile
and productive. Every English fruit flourishes vigorously : the
orchards and gardens scarcely differ in their products from those at
honu^ ; the settlers grow only such crops as are common in the old
(•(nmtry, and many of the older Tasmanian farms would bear ccmi-
parison with some of the best in lOngland ; though, on the newei*
ones, the bare timber fences and unsightly blackened stumps of
trees detract considerably from their beauty.

The spacious ])lains of Australia enable the colonists of that
country to surpass th(^ Tasmanians in wool-growing, though the
hills of Van Diemen's J^and afford pasuire to thousands of shec]),
and 8h(»lter for numerous herds of cattle; and in her breed of
horses the island cohniy stands second only to England h<^rsell'.
Coal, frei'stone, and clay are plentiful, and timber adapted to shi|»
and house-buihling is found in every part of the island; but it is
on her agricultural capabilities that Tasmania chiefly rests her
claim to notice, and from which she derives a title that has been
hai»pily bostow<Ml upon her — '' the granary of the South Seas."

A NIGHT IN TASMANIA.

273

lis

With my rocolleetions of the rolony aro nRsooiatod an adventiiro
in the wildoat pari of it ; the remembrance of a night passed in a
scene of which I still retain a moat vivid impression. The story
may not bo uninteresting to the reader, and it will, i)erhaps, funiish
a better idea of the unsettled districts of the country than any mere
details conh^ convev.

In the summer month of December, a few years ago, I had
occasion, in company with an old Imshman, to make an (excursion
to the Huon river, the communication between which and llohart
Town is usually by water, as the hilly and thickly timbered tract
that separates them has hitherto prevented the formation of any
road, other than a faint track marked by the occasional passage of
travollei*s. As tlie place that wo wished to reach lay higher up the
Ifuon than the point at which this track joins it, we intended, by
the aid of a pocket compass and the extensive experience of my
companion in bush-travelling, to trace out a new route which would
shorten the distance, and also carry us through a comparatively
unexplored countiy. With this design wo started from town fully
equipped for our journey, which wo expected to accomplish with
ease in two days. As we anticipated, in the course of our journey,
having occasion to kill some game, each carried a light fowling
piece and its accompaniments, with the usual requisites for bush
comfort. TIk^so consisted of two good opossum-skin rugs — the
most valuable article that a busliman can possess — strapped to our
shouldei-s, and containing a small sup])ly of provisions, together
with a tin pot for making tea, and a reserve of powder and sliot.
Uroad leathern belts confined the loose blue naimel sliirts that
formfHl our vq)per garments, and light hats made from the leaves ot
tbo Australian cabbage palm sliielded our heads from the rays of
iho sun.

Leaving the town, we were soon within the deep gorge that rises
towards Mount Wellington, and at the entrance of which is situated

274

REMARKABLK ADVENTURES.

lf.>

■i

i\u) Casnudes Fafitory, a larj^e building]; in which are inoarceratod
the most iiicorrigibh^ of tho female coiivict:^. From tliis point tlu>
mountain rises to a lieight of four thousand f(>et, its sidt^s (covered
with trees, and the ascent continually broken by tho intervention
of deep chasms and ravines, their rugged walls hidden bequeath a
tangled mass of most luxuriant vegetation. A tolerably good path
has been formed to tho summit ol' tho mountain, and several ladies
have made th(3 ascent, amongst whom may bo especially mentioncid
Lady Franklin, who penetmted into many of the wildest recesMs
of tho ishiud during the governorship of her gallant husband, U])ou
whose fate so dark a shadow rests. But <jur road lav to the left of
th(i mountahi, over liills thickly H})rinkled with beautiful wattle
trees {acacia), covenMl with yellow Howers; and busliy honey-
suckles (hanksia), bearing pine-like cones ; mingled with patches
of forest or she-oaks {casuarina), trailing their long slender branches,
I'rom which droop weeping, threadlike tcsndrils instead of leaves.
1-leyond these hills rose a dark forestof hugc^gu'u trees (eMca/y^/<(.s) ;
and as the day declined, we entered a broad valley alK)unding with
gigantic specimens of this great genus, the most common and yet
tilt; stateliest of all Australia's arbortisccnt prodigies. Perhaps in
no part of the world can this noble eolleetion of forest giants Im<
surpassed. Oat*, that we roughly measured, was upwawls of iifty
feet in girth, and shot up, straight as an arrow, without a single
break in the smooth tai)ering stem, to a height of more than a
Imndred feet. Hen^ it threw out a number of lingo br'Miches, and
then towered aloft, twisted and gnarled, covered with erooked
boughs that (?ast a shade upon the topmost branches of tall tre<?s;
and Hutttiring with narrow leaves that turned their edges to the
earth, and danced and trembled in the sunlight. Tim full altitude
of this enormous treti must hav(» been above twt> lumdnMl feet, and
many others grew around it of nearly equal dimensions.

Ifp I'rom the valley, we went tu'ross another ridge of hills, and

A NIGHT IN TASMANIA.

275

tho
udo
imd

unci

Ihcrc MP saw, IrirUiiin; tlirou^li tljc hollow, tlio littli' strcjiin Ixside
whioh wo meant to puss tlic night. Hen* th(; srcnc liad new
ttttmctions. It was tho porfoction of quiet bounty. The day liad
boon hot and sultry, and through tho long avenu(i of hills >vo saw
tho sun droop in tho wost, without a single cloud to catch tho
reflection of his fading glory ; whilst, as ho foil, there canio steal-
ing from tho sou the cool refreshing night breeze. TIk; evening
was one of those I have seen in no other country — so still and
gentle was it, and free from the tiiousand plagues that spring into
lifo with tho fiery sunset of the tropics. TIhj stream by which wo
eneumi)ed was overhung by tlui graceful sassai'ras and sombre light-
wood ; and luimerous flowering shrubs fringed its green banks,
spreading among the slender tea-treos that stood in groups, linked
to eaeh other by climbing }»lunts, from which hung many crimson
tassels and yellow bell-sh;,pe<l flowers. IJeyond stood the solitary
native cherry tree, its thick dark loliage drooping in stringy clus-
ters from the [jcndulous brunches, and deepened almost to bhuik in
the increasing gloom. All around, t(M), tlu* stunte<l fern trees
threw <»ut their majestic crowns of lung feathery leaves, and
stretched awav inlo tlu! fon-st until lost in the dense brushwood.
I'^'om tla* mid.il of this tower«'(l tin ifhu? and y<'llow gums, tla*
stringy bark, an<l other varieties of tla* eucalyj)ti, their gigantic
stems blackene<l by the busli lires, sa\j' wher(» the new bark, burst-
ing through in blend«'d streaks of blue and white, gav<^ to the old
forest kings a ghostly likeness, heightened by the nifairnful wav-
ing of the long dark strips that are ever j»eeling from their trunks ;
for tln'y follow thc! fashion of the eountry, where nature stamls upon
lier head, and shed their bark inst< ad (jf leaves.

Such was the beautiful scene uronnd us. Little did we think of
the p(M*il to which in a few hours onr lives were to !<c expose*! ;
but tJiis incident, and our i)rovid« ntial ilcliveruuce irum danger,
jnust hv reserved for our next chapter.

I."

276

IlEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

CHAPTER II.

Tiir: bountiful scenery described in my last pai)er was almo>t
fhroN\Ti away upon us, for we were desperately hungry. A lighted
raatoh b(Mng applied to a heap of dry grass and twigs, we had soon
a blazing fire, before which, in a few minutes, a brace of wattle
birds, shot during the day, were cooking in most primitive fashion.
Through each bird was thrust a long straight wand of tea-tree,
sharpened at botli ends, the otlier point being fixed obliquely in the
gi'ound, close to the red embers of the fire ; and thus our game was
quickly roasted in a style which, though it might slightly shock
31. Soycr, rendered it a veiy acceptable addition to our homely
supper. The tin pots, filh d from the stream, served the double
purpose of kettle and teapot ; and tea being mad«', they easily sui)-
]»lied the want of cup and saucer — a whole tea equipagf? in one.
Supper over, we collected a .'-tore of firewood, gathering the broken
limbs that lay scattered r(niii(l a fallen trunk ; its huge bulk so
thoroughly decayed, that Iln(»ugh its centnj sjmmg a clustiM-
of young saplings. Out of lh<^ dead tlieie canu^ fortii life.
Another log on the fire, and then, with n stone or a tuft of kanga-
roo grass for a pillow, and our warm rugs wrapped closely I'onml
us, ih(> blue and richly jewelled heavens our enrtain, we slept,
more soundly than if couched in down, or, with Sliaks[)<'are's

K'inir,

" Than in Wui poifiimod cliaiulxTrt of f lio j,'ront,
Uiukr tlu* «!;ino|)ir.s cti" co.stly hUiU;
And luU'tl with hoiuuLs ul' .swccUrft niolody. "

But our sleep was roughly broken. I awok«^ with a, dreamy
sense of snlVoeation, and lay for a mouK^nt drowsily w<»n(lering what
it meant, when suddenly a loud explosion started me to my fet^t,
and a conviction of the truth instant Iv I lashed niKai me. Uui* firts

A NIGHT IN TAf^MANI-A.

277

thougli carefully placed at a distanco from any (l(^ad timlxT, had
i^niitc'd tlio dry gi*asH, aud t\w llamo was rapidly sprcadiiJ<j^ throu^ifli
tli<; forest. It bad already gained tlic spot where, at a sliort dis-
tance from our resting place, we had deposited tiie remnant of our
])rovisions, and had reached theeanister of powder, the txplosicjn of
whi(;li had happily aroused us. It was hut just in time. The lire
liad commenced on the o})])ositr side to that on wliicli we lay, hut
it was swiftly gliding towards us, the cahnuess of tlie night allow-
ing it to ex[)and in every direction as from a centre ; and the Jow
brushwood, and (by branches of fallen trees, were; already blazing
and roaring most furiously. We turned instinctively to tiie creek,
but it was a line of fin.'. The tea tree, and small bushes on its
banks, had caught like; match -wood, and thf; flame ^vas running
along them at a racing pace. To clinch th(! hill heliind us with
such an enemy in chase was utterly impossible ; and so, carrying
only our guns, we started up the creek at full speed, as in that
direction the fh'e seemed to make least headway, and wv hoped to
easily outstrip it, and then cross the stream in safety. For a few
minutes we appeared to gain upon our fleet adversary, and were
already turaing towards an opening in the line of trees, when, seiz-
ing on a bunch of leafy shrubs, the flame shot past us ; and, bla/ing
up, caught the branches of an overhanging tree, spread in an
instant across the narrow rivuhit, and glanced like lightning
through the vale beyond. Meantime, the belt of fire behind was
widening up the hill, and pressing close upon us. Its hot bi'cath
scorched our cheeks, and the eddying smoke rolled round us in
suflTocating clouds ; whilst long bright tongues of Hamo hissed
through the leaves, and flashed along the ground, licking up the
cby grass in their momentary passage. Half-blinded, and gasping
for breath, the perspiration streaming from our brows, with terrei-
and exertion we hurried on, scarcely knowing whither.

The lino of fire ujum the crock had rapidly preceded the broader

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278

REMARKABLE ADVENTUUES.

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track that swept across the hill, und had already advanced consi-
derably ahead ol' us, when a turn in the range revealed beyond the
stream an open piece of groimd stretchiuf^ towards the foot of
another hill, and only Htudded here and there by large solitary
pum trees. With a siniultnu(H)Us movement wo dashed down the
hill, the tufts of grass already burning b(4ieath our feet, and burst-
ing through the half-eotisuniod but still blazing tea tree, at a singlcj
bound we paswjd the creek, and stood in safety on the patch of
open ground. " Thank (jod !" — these were the first words we had
uttered since our fd'arlul waking ; and we wei>t like children, as.
with Jiauds clasj)ed together, we gazed on the terrible spectacles
befoi'e us.

We still rtiiained our guns ; and I had in my pocket a flask of
powder intended for use on the road, wliich had, happily IVtr nu;,
nut b(.'en ignited in our passage through the mass of burning scrub;
but our singed hair, scorched elotlung, and shrivelled iihot-belts,
told liow narrow liad been our escape.

'J'Ik^ sjK)t on wliicli we stood was free from undergrowth, aJid
nearly denuded of grass, the scattered tussocks lying too far jipai't
to be easily tired, and the ! smooth bark of the blue gum trees otfering
]ittl<^ hold to the' iUmes. To retain our isolated position, and wait
until the fire had spread bey«mdus, was evidently our safest course;
and tliis we determined to adoj)t.

The night wan light as noonday, though the sky was hidden by
a heavy cloud oi' smoke that hung above the burnhig valhjy, and
spread its <lisHial folds from hill to hill, like S(jme hug(; funeral
pail: the black and drooping «'clges re(le(;ting here and there the
lurift hues tiirown from tlas llame-tinged centre. Far up the hill
spread a great sea of tir* — billows of llame heaving from every
clum}) of brushwooci ; the foremost waves rippled along the grass
lilvc an juivancing tide, with narrow streams of light sliooling
beyond tlicjn even' imjmeut, and then vanishing; whilst from tiio

A NKillT IN TASMANIA.

scene rosf3 flufli ai roar aa e<'lK)es from old o<,*ean thuiulerinp in
anp:or on tlio n)cky bamers of some rocf-bonnd coast. The flntoes
flashed up the rough fibrous covering of the stringy bai'k like light-
ning, spreading to every bough, withering the leaves, and bursting
out among the bmnchos, until the huge trees stood like red-hot
I'olumns, bearing as their capitals great pyramids of flam(>. The
close, smooth bark of other eucalypti, though scorched and shri-
v<»lled by the heat, seemed incomb^istible ; but the long dead strips
tiiat fluttered round them burned most vividly, and twined about
i\ui blistering trunks in iiory tresses. Showers of sparks and
flaming Jeaves filled the still air, and lloated in the smoky canopy;
whilst tiirough the surf-like roll and ceaseless crackling there
came at intervals a startling crash, tlie echoing death-groan with
which some leafy monarch yielded to his fate, bowed his scorched
head, luid canying with him hosts of forest courtiers who had
grown l)eneath his shade, sank on the earth, that trembled at his
fall. The flame had mounted rapidly up the loose bark of other
trees, igniting the topmost branches, and then expiring on the
truidc: and thus a mass of fire hung in mid-air, and spreading
through the foliage around it raged as fiercely Jis that which glowed
and roar(?d below. Flights of parrots, dsizzled by the glare, ro.se
screaming from their perches, and dro])ped bewildered and half
suffocated in the burning chaos.

As morning approached, the wind rose, and many a half-con-
sumed tree fell before the sudden gusts that rushed with fitful
violence from the detjp hollows and distant valleys. . At daybreak
the fire bad passed along the range, and when the sim p<^eped
through the wind-gaps in the smoke, the scenes had lost its terrible
magnificence, and presented only marks of utter desolation and of
mournful ruin. Jn place of the closely matted shrubs, the climbing
flowers, the graceful ferns, and noble forest, tliere appeai'ed a
scathed and blackened prospect, from which all life had fled.

280

REMARKABLE ADVENTUIIES.

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Upon the smoking earth long lines of iino whito msIios niiirkc^d tlio
8pot where some thick group of clinging shrubs luid penHlicd, or
where the fallen stem of some lull sapling had been consunKMl.
The trees, like great black skeletoiLS, reared their gaunt limbs
stripped of all covering ; and round their trunks the fallen branches
gathered, aiding the Hre that slowly ate into their hearts. The
little rivulet, choked by the fallen timber, ros(^ in clouds of hissing
steam as shoM'crs of burning fragments fell into its channel. The
mass of veg(,'tation that grow in wild luxuriance on its banks, and
bent in twining arches across the murmuring current, was no
longer there; but in its place lay heaps of smoking crab sre. Tlie
whitt^ odorous sassafras and slender tea tree mingled their ashes
with those of tho. red light-wood and the yellow box. The hill
down which we had come the day before, scarce able to force a
passage through the thick undergrowth, j>reseuted now only long
rows of grimy trunks standing in solitary desolation — gigantic
mutes, mourners at natiu-e's funeral rites.

The fire had only extended a short distance beyond the creek,
confining its ravages principally to the ranges in which it had com-
menced ; and as we tinned to continue our journey, we could hear
the distant roar of the flames, and the crashing of the burning
forest far away. Though thankful and overjoyed at our escape,
yet our position was by no means a pleasant one. The little stock
of provisions was gone, but this was a trifling loss compared with
that of our pocket compass, which had also disappeared; for,
though rarely used by experienced bushmen in so short a jouniey
us ours, yet our ignorance of the country through which lay our
route, its hilly nature, and distance from the settled districts, ren-
dered such a guide indispensable. The rare glimpses of the sun
that reached us in the valleys were of little use in directing us, and
the continual devititions necessitated by the deep gnllic^s and steep
precipices that wo encountered soon completed onr i/ewildernient,

A NKillT IN TASMANIA.

281

Tho din ct course of the j)lat:o wo wishod to reach was iihowi wost-
Hi)utli-w«jst ; but by kocpitij; too much to the westward we luijj^iit
go beyoud our destination, and «;nter a ]uirt of the countr' that
Htretchod away to the distant coast without a sinp^U^ settleniont, and
tlio greater pt)rtion of which has never been thorongldy explored.
Once within that unknown district, our extrication was very impro-
babk', and death from hunger woukl tlien be i\m certain termination
of our wanderings ; for the bush of Tttsmania does not contain a
singh; wild fruit capable of supporting life, and our slender stock of
ammunition would soon be expended.

Under these circumstances we resolved to steer due south, a
direction the most easily ascertained by the position of tho sun,
which in that country would of course be directly b(>hind ns at
noonday, and one that mnst ultimately bring us to some part of
the channel leading to Hobart Town, and probably to one of the
farms or convict stations planted on its sliores. In tho course of
the morning we shot a couple of parrots, and 8topj)ed on the bank
of a small stream to cook and eat them, selecting a perfectly clear
spot for our fire, and carefully extinguishing it when we resumed
our journey. Two beautiful bronze-winged pigeons who favoured
us with their com{)any at dinner, and appeared anxious to ascertain
what sort of animals we were who liad thus intruded on tlieir
territory, were secured by a skilful shot from my com|)anion, and
served for supper.

On the following morning we climbed to the top of a lugh hill
in the neighbourhood of our resting place, but no appearance of
wat(jr was dis(!erniblo ; the view was one uninterrupted succession
of wood-crowned hills and thickly-timbered hollows — a wavy sea
of many-tinted foliage. On this day wo caught an animal that is
now rare in Tasmania, and which I then saw lor the first time. It
was a s;,)ccic>? of ant-eater, called by tho settlers a ]»nn'npiiie, by
uaturaluts the echidna. It is considerably larger tliau tl»c E(:;ili^li

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716)872-4503

282

l:EMAIiKi\.BLE ADVENTUllES.

htidj^eliog, but covered with a similar coat of strong bristles,
interspersed with sharp thick quills, stouter but shorter than those
of tlie African porcupine. Its long pointed liead and powerful
claw3 enabled it to burrow in the ground with great rapidity, and it
adopted this mode of escape in the present instance, burying itself
in the soft earth in a moment. But its progress underground was
arrested by a blow from the butt-end of a gun ; and as my comrade
declared ■ him to be excellent eating, we reserved the thorny gen-
tleman for dinner. How to cook him was the next point for con-
sideration, and we decided in favour of the mode hi which bushmen
always bake their bread or dampers, and which 1 had occasionally
seen practised on a wild duck in Australia.

We chose for our bivouac a beautiful hollow, having in its centre
a small circular lake, fed by a little stream that trickled from the
hills. A thick border of tall reeds sm-rounded the lake, and its
surface was dotted by numerous water-fowl, the graceful black
swan and gorgeous mountain duck conspicuous among them. Here
our porcupine was carefully enveloped in a thick coat of mud and
clay, and buried in the centre of the iire, where we left him to
bake at leisure in the hot ashes, whilst we crept down to the lake,
and scattered a few shot among&t its plump inhabitants. When we
returned the lire had burned down, and the muddy covering of our
curious pie was baked into a hard crust, which, being broken ofC,
brought with it quills and bristles, and left the porcupine divested
of his armour and beautifully cooked. In appeiu*ance and liavour
tho llesh exactly resembles that of a sucking pig, for which, when
cooked, tho animal might easily have been mistaken ; excepting
that his nose terminated in a sharper point, and that hi,' ears were
exceedingly minute.

In tho morning, after breakfasting on the remains of the baked
porcu]>ino, we loft the lake loaded with game, and as we mounted
the ridge looked anxiously around us, hoping to detect tlij silvery

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A NIGHT IN TASMAiJIA.

283

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)imted
kiivcry

glitter of the sea. But the same interminable expanse of foliage
met our jraze, and hill above hill still rose on everv hand. jMv
boots, cracked by the fire, had dropped to pieces, and travelling
over the pointed kangaroo grass and sharp diy twigs became ex-
tremely painful. Our clothes, already scorched to tinder by the
heat, were torn to shreds, and fluttered round us a mere heap of
rags. On this day, also, we found no water, and our miseries
seemed approaching to a climax as we toiled slowly, towards night-
fall, up a steep ridge of hills, hoping to find beyond them the
much-wished-for stream. At length we stood upon the summit
and looked down into the vale, and though no ripplmg brook
offered its waters to our thirsty lips, a far more pleasing sight
saluted us. Spread at our feet lay a broad (wpanse of water, a
deep bay, down which a little craft was slowly di-oppiug, her liglit
sails scarce filled by the gentle evening breeze, and her long
shadow broken and distorted by the merry leaping of the tiny
waves, that danced and glittered in the golden sunlight. In a
moment our fatigue was gone, our bleeding feet forgotten, and we
were quickly standing on the quiet beach.

A single hail acro.ss the still water reached the vessel, and in
return came the startled helmsman's loud halloo. A few words
told our story, and the little boat towed astern was soon sculling
towards the shore ; and as the red gleam of the setting sun shot
into the heavens, tinging the disttmt hills, and staining witli ruddy
glow the nearer waters, we stepped aboard the cumbfrcd wood
boat.

So circuitous liad been our route, that thougli four days had
elapsed since we started on our journey, we weio oidy some eigh-
teen miles from llobart Town, th(^ point at which wo reached the
channel being the head of North-west Bay. Sueh instances are
common of men travelling: manv davs in the bush, and vet oidv
advancing a few niiler. towards their destination, iinjwes-JMlMilli the

284

REMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

idea that they are proceeding in a ytruight lino,, while they are
coiitinually wandermg in a circle.

Wt! were soon gliding over the .surface of the silvery Derwent ;
and d,s we lay at sunrise becalmed on its broad bosom, we could
see, lowering above the distant ranges, a dense cloud of smoke, its
long spiral wreaths still curling upwards from the valleys, winding
amongst the summits of the hills, and spreading round them a
dark gloomy curtain that fell in heavy folds above the scene of our
adventure and formed a fitting pall for tlie bhick desolation we had
left ; where many a mighty tree that had defied the attacks of
storm and time lay now a heap of ashes, its massive trunk dwindled
to a narrow line of light grey poM der and red earth.

A STRIKING PROVIDENCE.

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The Rev. Mr. Thompson was well known, not only to the
parishioners among whom he lived,* but to the neighbourhood at
large, for the great liberality of his character. He was literally
what Paul describes, " as po(3r, yet making many rich ; as having
nothing, and yet possessing all things."

It was the uniform custom of this truly apostolic pastor, every
year at the close of harvest, to distribute the surplus of his glebe
among the j)oor of his parish, after first housing the necessary
supply of his own little household, which consisted but of himself,
a man-servant, and an old female housekeeper. It so happened,
however, that one year a peculiar circumstance occurred which
compelled him to depart from his usual plan. He had engaged,
in the openness and generosity of his heart, to subscribe 30/.
towards the expense of buildmg a chapel in a distant town, where

* St. GennyB, iu Cornwall, iu tbo last century.

A STRTKlXa PROVIDKNOE.

285

the parishioners were too numoroiis to l)o \v(?ll acconimoduted in
their own parish church. Having always the love of God and the
salvation of souls in view, he did not regret his promise ; but
unable to raise the money by any other means than by breaking
in upon the little hoard of his poor parishioners, he had no expe-
dient but that of selhng what heretofore he had always given away,
and converting tlio corn into money to fulfil his engagement for
the chapel. Instead, therefore, of calling his poor parishioners
together, as usual, to take from his fields their harvest, he was
obliged to invite some richer ones of the village to buy as much
com as would supply the 80/. which he had promised towards the
erection of the chapel. The expedient was very painful to a man
of his feelings, but the obligation seemed unavoidable.

Having by selling his com obtained the money, IVIr. Thompson
left his home with an intention to be himself the bearer of his
benefaction. In his journey, which was about twenty miles, he
overtook on the road a young lady, mounted on a hoi-se ; and being
a man of very cheerful and coDimunicative manners, he accosted
her with a degree of frankness which his age and profession might
be supposed to authorize.

" Well overtaken," said he, " fpir lady : will you accept of an old
man for your companion over the down? I am too old indeed to
promise you much protection; but I trust God will protect us
both."

There was a certain something in the manner with which he said
tliis, that the young lady, feeling a strong prepossession in his
favour, immediately thanked him and accepted his company. She
expressed iw.ich pleasure m his company, and as it appeared that
they V. jre both going to the same town, they trotted on together.

lu the course of their conversation, wliich was about t^e best
things, he told her his name, what a happy village of poor people
his was, and how dear the parishioners were to him ; but he avoided

286

IlEMARKABLE ADVENTURES.

A (

ii.

saying- any thing wliicli might load lior to imagine that their happi-
ness resulted from liis bounty, or that his conduct differed from
that of his neighbours. When they arrived at the town and were
about to part, he accpiainted his fellow traveller with the name of
the friend to whose house he was going, expressing at the same
time his wish that he might see the young lady again.

The young lady wai? so much pleased with her companion on the
road, that tlie same evening, in the course of conversation with hor
friends, to whose hous:i she was come upon a visit, she could not
liclp relating the circ imstance respecting the veiy agi'eeable old
clergyman she had met on the road, of the name of Thompson, and
with how many pleasant subjects he had enteiiained her.

" Thompson!" cried the lady of the house; *' I wonder wliether
lie is a relation to the captain Thompson we have been so many
years inquiring for in vain. I have 30?. tied up in a bag by my
late husband, due to the captain, who ordered it to be left till
called for. I suppose the captain is long since dead, and his
executor, whoever he is, knows nothing of it."

" Who can tell," answered the young lady, " whether tliis
Mr. Thompson may not be the very man? Suppose we send to
call him hither ?" The lady of the house consented to do so, and
despatched a servant requesting the favour of his company, with
which the good old man immediately complied.

In the course of conversation, the old lady of the house said she
understood his name was Thompson, and desired to ask him if ho
knew of a captain Thompson, who was in the East India service.
" Yes," said the old gentleman, " for he was my own brother."
And he began to relate such circumstances of him as rendered the
matter unquestionable.

The lady was rejoiced at the discovery. '' For," said she, " my
late husband bought a small garden from the late captain Thomp-
son ; and the captain hastening to sea before he had received the

A STPJKTNO PROVrOT:NrE.

287

money agrood for tlio piirdmso, tlio 30/. av;)>( l,.ft ju ]iis ]ian<ls,
wliich was put in a bag, waiting the captain's letiun. But tliis
never took place. And at ray husband's death, ho left a strict
charge to keep the money ready for him whenever ho should
call."

Mr. Tliompson looked amazed at the discovery, his brother
having been dead several years, and himself the only surviving
relation, and the executor and residuary legatee of his effects!
The first impression wrouglit upon his mind so soon as tho lady of
the house put the bag with the ?>0I. into his hand, was strikinr;-.
He could not refrain, b(^fore them all, from breaking forth iuio
expressions of devout gratitude to God ; and falling upon his
Ivnees, with his eyes lifted up, he exclaimed, " Blessed bo God !
how gracious, how wonderful, thus to provide for my poor p(^ople
at home 1 The money will be theirs again."

He hastened home to his friend, to inform him of what had
h'lppened ; and so very full was his soul with joy on this occ^asion,
tliat as he entered his house he cried out, "Praise God for ever!
Our God is a faithful God." His host was astonished, and for tho
moment thought Mr. Thompson's mind was unhinged, so excited
did he seem ; but when his first paroxysm of joy had somewhat
subsided, and he related the event, liis friend, as well as himself,
found cause to say, " What hath God wrought?"

THE END.

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Wl> CIIAIIINO CROSS.