A
THE
BRITISH COLONIST IN NORTH AMERICA
A GUIDE FOR INTENDING EMIGRANTS
THE BRITISH COLONIST n
IN
\
NORTH AMERICA
A GUIDE FOR INTENDIiyG EMIGRANTS
LONDON
SWAN SONNENSCHEIN & CO.
PATERNOSTER SQUARE
I 890
f
PREFACE.
Many of the descriptive pamphlets conccrninc^ portions
of North America, in which colonization is desired, give
exaggerated accounts of the resources of the country,
which in some cases are artistically misrepresented. It
is, perhaps, hardly to be expected that persons interested
in attracting immigration, will set before their readers
the many drawbacks thoy may have to encounter. In
other cases persons who have not been long in the
country, and arc enthusiastic about the novelties of their
surroundings, are likely to form erroneous impressions,
and thus mislead their friends With no personal
interests whatever to serve, and much practical experi-
ence, the present writer has collected information on
various subjects which may prove useful to persons in-
tending to emigrate from the old country — and assist
in guiding them to the choice of a destination.
The Author.
'I
CONTENTS.
CriAi-. I'A*'""
Introduction - - - . . - i
I. British Colump.ia - - - - - 39
II. MANiTor.A - - - - - - n
III. Washington Staik, Wkstekn Division - - 103
W. Central and Easikrn Washington - - 119
V. Oregon m
VI. California - - - - - - 162
X\\. Lower California - - - - - 219
VIII. New Mexico - - - - - - 228
IX. Texas 251
X. North Carolina 279
1
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r.o°
THE BRITISH COLONIST.
INTRODUCTORY.
CONTENTS.
SuPERiOK Advantages of the Dominion of Canada, 2 — Prejudice against
Englishmen in the States, 3 — American Newspapers, 3 — Education
in the Dominion and the United States, 4 — (Jovernment Lauds in
the States, 4 —Indians, 4 — Attractions of the Western States, 5 —
Social Intercourse, 5 — Domestic Servants, a — An American's View
of the British Farmer, G — Depression of Agriculture in the States,
7 — Agriculture in New Jersey, 8— In Nebraska, 9 — Condition
of Farmers in Dakota and Kansas, 9 — Farm Mortgages, 10 — Con-
dition of Farmers in the Dominion, 11 — The Causes of Agricultura
Depression in the States, 11 — The Landlords of the States, 11 —
The Superior " Knack" and Enterprise of the American Farmer,
12 — His Style of Living, 13 — The Middle-men, 13 — Expense of the
Necessaries of Life, 13 — Bill Nye on the Situation, 14 — Affairs in
Dakota, 14 — In Wisconsin, 1.4 — In New Hampshire, 14 — In
Micliigan, 15— Contrast with the Dominion, 15 — The Stock Ranges
in the States, 15 — Destruction of Timber, 15 — The Possibilities of
One Acre, IG— Outlook for Agriculturists, IG — The Professiona
Raidvs in the States, 17 — Value of Money, 17 — Farming Imple-
ments, 17 — The Real Estate Business, 18 — Peculiar Methods in the
Business, 18 — Effects of the "Boom" in California and Kansas, 20 —
A System of Irrigation, 20 — Considerations of Climate, 21 — Malarial
Districts in the States, 21 — Alien Landlu)l(lers, 22 — Investments, 23
— Sharpers, 23 — Expenses of Litigation, 24— Legal Procedure, 24—
Aliens may Appeal, 24— Settlers' Eliects, 24— -Rates of Freight, 25 —
A
THE BRITISH COLONIST,
The r.agga;,'c-sni!\slior, 2.')— New York Cabmen, 2G— Kconomy, '2(j—
Railway Tickets, - -2 )— Trials of Second-Class Passengers, 2 !-^
Sharpers, 27 -Transfer of iJaggage, 27— Conveyance of Money, 27—
Bank Drafts an'u Deposits, 27— Maps, 2S —Routes to the raiilic
Coast, 2S- Colonists' Cars, 2!)— The Car Stove, 20— Expenses ni
route, 30— Tile B(K)k l\ .Idler, SO— Canadian raeitio Railway, .'Jl -
Chicago Limited Express, 31 — Florida Limited Express, 31— Rail-
way Fare, 33~FastestTime to Pacific Coast, 33 — Transcontinental
Passenger Rules, 34— Second-Cla? '"' rs, 34— Canadian Pacific
Passenger Rates, 34— Distances (Thmscontinental), 34 -Snow
Blockades, 35 — 'J'rain Robbers, 30.
In selecting any part of Nortli America as a permanent
residence, the Britisli emi<>'iant, wlio is not infected witli
llcpulilicanism, will o-ive weight to the superior social ad-
vantages the Dominion of Canada offers. There are a
few clu'oiuo revolutionists in the Dominion, who, oacked
up l>y the " American Press," attempt to foster disloyalty
to the British flag and the Canadian Constitution; hut
they are a mere unit in the population, and worthy of
little attention. In the Dominion, the British settler
will have the advantaires of livinfj inider his own ilaj,
and anion rst his own countrymen. Law and oi'der ])\v-
vail eveiy where, and h(^ will enjoy a sense of security,
both ''' life and pro]ierty, which he may fail to realise
in «^^'ne parts of the United States, where respect for tli(3
law is only nominal, men's passions unrestrained, and
acts of violence of fre([uent occurrence. In many of the
States he will have to renounce his allegiance in order
to purchase and hold property. He v;ill find the judi-
cature of the countrj', in many instances, in the hands of
most unworthy persons elected from the dregs of society
by political party influence ; and malfeasance in office is
of frequent occurrence. Many American newspapers
INTRODUCTORY.
seem to make a business of collecting, distorting, and
exaggerating scandals and defamatory articles concerning
Englislimen and England, and thus '^'■cate a prejudice
against them in the minds of a large class of Americans,
who are educated by the press. Offences committed by
impostors in the disguise of Englishmen of rank are widely
heralded and commented upon by newspapers in the
United States as evi<.-.ouce of the depravity of the English
upper classes. A paragraph has recently appeared alleg-
ing that a Scotch nobleman, one Sir Francis Austin, has,
by brutal treatment, driven his wife to seek refuge in this
country. Although the leading Philadelphia paper an-
nounces that there is no such person as a " Sir Francis
Austin," this report will l)e eagerly seizei upon by news-
papers, and wall not be contradicted by the majority of
them. The correspondtuice and opinicms of the most
scurrilous English radicals are invited and disseminated,
and it is no wonder that Americans, who are not well
educated and have not travelled oat of their own country,
and derive their information solely from their news-
paj^crs, regard with ill-feeling English genUemen who
come amongst them. Persons, who have no conception
of the character and deportment of a gentlemai leem to
be easily duped by the swaggering snobs, who P'^ often
impose themselves upon the people as English gentlemen.
American newspapers ai'C also, in a great measure, re-
sponsible for the low tone of social and political morality
existing in the country by the flippant, and often vulgar,
manner in which they present the recoids of civil and
criminal offences, by an irreverent manner of discussing
sacred subjects, and by the vulgar personalities which
so often accompany their censure of political opponents.
THE BRITISH COLONIST.
The corruption and corrnptibility of public oHlcers is n
sad exhibition of the worst sich* of Republicanism, and the
British enii^a'ant will soon realise that the free institu-
tions of this great Republic are not an unmixed bhvssiiifr.
In com])arin«4 the advantai^es of the Dominion with
those of the United States, eihication in tlie former, in
rural districts, is nnich supeiior. There are schools
everywhere in the Unittnl States, but the teacluM's are, as
a rule, persons of very superficial education tlu>mselves,
and beyond arithmetic, and orthon'i-aphy, and history of
the United States, little is taught; and bad mamiers are
ac«iuired by association with uni^overned children. There
is a Lar"e area of fertile land at once available for culti-.
vation in the Dondnion, but in tlie United States, there
is such a rush for ( Jovernment lands of desirable (juality,
from time to time thrown open, and so much trickery,
and even violence to be encountered in the selection, that
it is very doubtful if a stranger will succeed in obtaining
any. He would, probably, find some other person putting
in a claim, and perhaps his life threatened, if he persi.sted
in nuxintaining his position. Men go on to the Itidian
Reservations, ceded to the United States, before they are
actually opened to settlement, and although the law will
not sustain their selections, that may not save a legal
claimant from the persecution of those dispossessed.
Nothing of this kind will be experienced in the ])om-
inion ; and it is extremely improbabh; that any further
trouble will be experienced in the North West Tenitory
from an Indian or Half-Breed outbreak, after the les-
son they have received ; and the Canadian mounted
police keep admirable ^^v^\^v throughout the country,
No trouble on account of Indians, however, is to be
IMTROIWCTORV. 5
feared, now, in tlic Wustoni United States; and tso many
eastern Ou-mers liave settled in the far west, of late, tliat
Boeial advantages have very much improvevl, and arc
steadily improvinj^f, and tlie vast region west of the
great cliains of mountains to tlio Pacific Ocean, with its
splendid climates, and wonderful resources, oifers a most
temptin<^ iield for the emi*n'ant and colonist who is will-
ing to adapt himself to the ways of the country and of
such society as may he availalile. In the case of men, or
families, who have heen accustomed to the refinements
and luxuries of ICnglish life, the amenities of social inter-
course will nnieh depend upon their own good judgment
and forbearance. They must not expect to find Ameri-
can families of culture and refinement in rural districts
of the west, and any marked disinclination to associate
with their neighbours, or criticisms of their ways, or the
state of the countiy, will be resented. The people will
expect them to find everything superior to what they
enjoyed in their own country, and it must be remembered
that Americans are peculiarly sensitive to criticism, and
do not tolerate any scnd>lance of superiority. Domestic
servants, or " helps," as they must be called, and labourers
in the west, and in rural districts, expect to be received
at the family table and treated as members of the faniily ;
otherwise they will not work for those denying these
privileges ; and domestics brought from the old countries
will be subjected to influences tending to alienate them
from their allegiance, or, in the case of eligible females,
they will soon be induced to marry and leave. Domestic
servants are very hard to obtain, and families should
learn to do their own work : but where Chinamen can
be obtained, on the Pacific coast, they do very well.
THE lUsiTlSlI COLONIST.
KiiuiliL's t'liiigrjitiii^f, who dusirc tlic service of (kmiestics,
Can ln'inf,^ out (>l(lorly p(3r.son,s of unattractive appearance
with toleraMe succcsh.
Before tlie State ])oard of Am'ieulture of Pennsyl-
vania in 1S79, Dr. .lolm P. E<l<;c, a nieniLer, made the
foUowin*; statement: — '* (Jivat Ihitain .sliows that slic
has <jj()t so far lieyond tlie posslhility of feedini;' lur
millions, tliat she takes products of our soil to the vahu;
of U)0,0()(),i)()() (hillars amuiall^' and returns us only
9S,()0(),()00 doUars in fahiic>!, and tiie bahmce in casli.
The widest (Hlference between the foreign and American
farmer is in tlu; metliods of tiJlaw.
" We depend on macliineiy to perfect and harvest our
crops. With a span of liorses and one man, our aveiaL^e
farmers of one hundred acres will do (ill the years irorJx,
except threshiui,^ and harvesting. He has ample barns ;
his buildings arc centrally located to cover all the ad-
vantages of water, drainage, »i:c. ; his house, if not \n'ii-
tentious, has the ap))earance of comfort and .solidity.
Everything about gives you the impression that tlie
occupant lives at home.
"In great IJiitain and on the Continent it is different
— all the surroundings speak of age and pinch. The
farmer is a peasant ; his home a cottage, generally straw
or tile covered, low, damp, and cave-like. You sec no
large waggon houses filled with mowers and reapers.
His barn is a shed, often connecting wntli the dwelling
and under the same roof ; his harvest in stacks ; his
domestic animals a part of his family, the stable often
.serving as a sleeping apartment for both. Everything
is primitive, and the entii'e living suggests the
renter, who is in reality, loaded down with rents and
INTRO DVCTORY.
taxc i, and tithes, until aftur tliu hindlord, tlio priest,
an<l the State, and the municipality are satisfied, he often
has less than one-lii'th of his eai'nin<^s for liiH slmre."
Such was the sad condition of the British farmer as
misrepresented by Dr. Kdi^o. As a matter of fact, tlio
averafifc Ensxlish tenant farmer is a Ywvf to his American
cousin, ])oth in tlic styh; of living and the comfort and
neatness of liis sui'roundinL;'s. A i\\\\v^ wliich will i)arti-
cubirly attract tli<; attention of the foreign visitor, in
traversing the country, is the hideous and untidy
appearance of farm houses. No matter how beautiful
the country, naturally, may lie, it is defaced l)y Ui,dy
snake fences and the glaring, wliite-painted, or washed,
farm house; tiic farm yards anivle-deep in mud, and
hogs wallowing in mire in their pens. The iarmer's
style of living and dress corresponds.
We shall now see how his superior methods have
resulted.
Mr. James K. Reeve, in an article on '* Agriculture as
a Profession," wdiich a)">pcared in Harper, May, 18SI),
says : " Upon lands comparatively new, and aided by
all our American pluck and enterprise, our splendid
macliinery, and our * knack ' of being foremost in every
undertaking, we produce less than half as great a yield
of wheat per acre, as England. Looking at the grand
total, we lead the world, at the result of individual cH'ort,
and we are behind almost every land but India. Our
population is increasing in a ratio never before known
iu the history of nations; the producti\eness of our
arable lands is decreasing, and tlie pi'csent generation
will see the limit of the territorial expansion of our
ajri'iculture. When this limit is reached we shall be
8 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
confronted by two altisruatives — citliur to lot another
and wiser nation feed ns, or so to liusband our own re-
sources, tliat tlie emergency may be met and overcome
from witliin." " The rise in land values, with conseciucnt
increase of taxes, and of interest on invested capital,
coupled with the decreased amount and value of the
product, is now renderinc^ it extremely diilicult for
farmers in the older sections to secure an adequate
return for the employment of tlieir capital and labour,
The statistical afj^ent of the Agricultural Department
reported the average income for farmers in the State of
New York, for 188G, as beini"- onlv three-and-onc-halt'
per cent, on their invested capital ; and this without aiy
allowance for the N'alue of their own time and labour
At that rate, the more land a num has, the worse he is
off; and as methods of cultivation which will tend to
better this condition are well-nigh impossible, or at least
impracticable on largo areas, and under existing manage-
ment, we find, conse(piently, a growing tendency toward
the subdivision of agricultural holdings." One out of
every twenty farmers in the State of New York is
liopelessly in debt, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific
this evil prevails to a greater or less extent.
In New Jersey, with the advantages of rich soil, in
many places underlaid with marl, and the finest markets
in the country close at hand, the farmers conn)lain that
tliey cannot obtain an ade(piate return for their money,
a!id in some cases find it ditlicult to make jven a living.
It is true that the past season has been most unfavour-
able, but the financial condition of the fariycrs must be
bad to be so affected by one bad season.
INTRODUCTOkV. 9
They attribute their difficulties to the exactions of
conunission-meu, and the exorbitant local rates of freight,
and especially the competition of California producers.
The transcontinental rates are so low, owing to the great
competition of Railway Companies, that it is difficult to
see how any profit can be made, on these rates, and local
rates are, therefore, made to counteract the trans-
continental. Wherever there is no competition, and
coml)inations have been made by Railroad Companies,
the farmer is mercilessly overcharged.
The Governor of the State of Nebraska, in an appeal
to the " Trans-]\[issouri Traffic Association," says that
millions of bushels of corn are lying on the ground, going
to waste, in that State ; and that the farmers who raised
it are unable to get it to market on account of high
rates. The farmers are unable to ])ay for provisiors
and coal, and cannot meet their en^au'ements in conse-
quencc. They are burning this corn in j^kxce of other
fuel. Local business is almost paralysed, and a most
gloomy prospect for the opening of s[)ring is before
them. Affairs in Kansas are in a very bad way also, and
much distress exists in agricultural districts. Governor
Miller of North Dakota says, " There is more destitution
amongst the people than ever before known in the history
of the country." In South Dakota there is great distress
and destitution amongst the farmers.
There is no pessimism in this presentation of the con-
dition of tlie majority of farmers in the United States,
but, in striking contrast with this, is the present status
of the educated, [iractical, and theoretical agriculturists,
whose fine farms in many of the Eastern and Middle
States, skilfully managed, still continue to i)ay a fair,
Id
THE BklTIsn COLONIST.
aiul, ill some cases, a luindsoiiie dividend ou the iiivo.-st-
nient. It is, however, now more than ever necessary
that an agriculturist sliould have ami)Ie and even surplus
capital for a given area, as well as a thorough knowledge
of the business connected with it. One of the greatest
evils of insulHcient capital is shown in the inability of
the poor farmer in the West to buy stock to feed liis
produce to, and thus everything is taken out of his land,
and a mere nominal price paid for tlie produce.
Tiie Ohio Commissioner of Labour reports upon Farm
Mortgages as follows : —
AMOUNT UF FARM MORTGAGES CARRII^D BY'
VA
Ohio, .
Indiana,
Illinois,
Wisconsin,
MiCHIOA.V,
Iowa, .
Nebraska,
Missouri,
Kansas,
lOUS STATFS.
$,701,000,000
308,000,000
020,000,000
250,000,000
350,000,000
175,000,000
351,000,000
237,000,000
203,000,000
$3,425,000,000
The census of 18S0 showed the value of the farms in
these States to be 5,107,040,003 dols. ; they are worth less
now than at that time, so we have ten of the most
fertile States in tiie Union being mortgaged for more
than two-thirds their value.
The estimated total moitgage indebtedness of the
farmers in the United States amounts to the enormous
faum of 9,000,000,000 of dollars. The greater portion of
INTRODUCJORY. U
this sum lias been spout, not on improvements, but
to enable the farmers to live. Mr. Cleveland, in his
messao-e to Congress, said, referring to the farmers:
" Their lands are declining in value, while their debts
increase." Turning to the Dominion of Canada, we find
in the Province of Ontario, according to official returns,
that the increase in the area of cultivated lands fi-oni
'83 to '86 was 1*4 per cent., while that of their value was
1-7 pel- cent., it thus appearing that the value of farm
property has increased more raindly than its area.
The condition of farmers in the United States, as
shown by Mr. Reeve's statements, is only too true. It
then a]>pears, that in spite of the great resources of this
magnificent countiy, of the superiority of its institutions,
of American " knack " and enterprise, the American
farmer is considerably worse off tlian the English or
Canadian farmer. The protective tarifl^*, and the exac-
tions of monopolies, trusts, and middle-men bear hardly
on the American farmer; but, apart from these evils, the
causes of the present agricultural depression are : The
reckless and exhausting system of farming so long pur-
sued, leaving vast areas of once fruitful lands in a state
of depletion ; an aggregate production in excess of the
home and foreign demands ; extravagance in machinery ;
farming with insufficient capital, and general mis-
management, and improvidence. Men attempting to
farm largo tracts of land with small capital, must
'jorrow money, at from eight, to even 15 per cent. A
bad season ensues, and with it financial embarrassment,
md they become " tenants at will " of the mortgagees.
rhe money-lenders are now the landlords of America,
md their tenants are barely able to make a living-,
12
THE BR/Tisn COLONIST.
and pay the lii.rrh rates of interest on their iiulel.U.l i
ness.
This state of things under a nionareliical form o( ,
government would be intolerable; but the Aniericain
tanner, ni the enjoyment of the free Institutions of a \
Itepubhe, tlnnks his condition, bad as it is, very superior •
to that of the down-trodden tenants of an Irish or
En-li.sli lan.U.jrd, wh(. would, howevei-, bo happy with a "
five per cent, dividend on his investment. The new,- '
papers, and the farmer seldom reads an^ thino- else, con-
stantly i-emind him of the superiority of his works aiul
the attributes of his life over those of foi'eii,niers ; and
he hK)ks dou-n on them and tlieir methods; but perhaps ,
now, at the eleventh hour, he is beu-inning to think he
may not have (piite a monopoly of the wisdom of the
world. TlKHisands of tons of straw, wliieh should he
converted into manure, are aninially burnt, and often '
where the attempt is made, the nutritive qualities
are dissipated by improper nianao-ement. Expensive
machinery, bouo-ht on credit, is often left out in all
kinds of weather. .Stock is badly housed and impro-
perly fed, and there is sl.jvenliness and untidiness every-
where. When the lan.l will no longer yield a fair crop,
the farmer goes farther west if he can, only to repeat
the same process, with the '' knack " of being foremost
in every undertaking. As for the ''pluck " and enter- )
prise Mr. Reeve refers to, one cannot recognise "burnino-
one's candle at both ends " as " pluck," or coveiing the '
country with exhausted farms, as enterprise to be ad- I
mired. For years the leading agricultural journals, and ,
the " Reports of the Agricultural SocietieJ," have been 1
showing hhu the errors of his methods of farmincr, but I
INTKODUCTORY. 13
the average Ainoricaii farmer has a contempt for "book-
farmni<]j," as he calls it. '' He is a practical man," and
does not want any tlieories on farming. He said, " that
the Jand wns 'too fat,' and did not want manure." Well!
his fat is in the Hre now, and lie will have some trouble
in getting out of liis present difficulties.
It might be supjiosed that the American farmer is
liberal and luxuiious in his stylo of living, even to ex-
travagance. This is very far from being the case as a
rule. His clothing is of the coarsest and cheapest
kind, cliiefly cotton. He drives to market in a rough
farm-waggon with plough horses. He is out of bed
at daylight in summer, and lamp-liglit in winter. His
food consists piincipally of fat bacon, hot bread, the
common vegetables, and the inevitable pie, with cheap
Rio coffee. Occasionally fresh meat is obtained, which
is either cut in thin slices and fried in fat, or into lumps,
and boiled till all the juices are extracted, which are
thrown away in the water. He has fruit, dried, or pre-
served, and molasses, with hot batter cakes. The cook-
ing is generally abomina])le, and he may look forward
to a toothless and dyspeptic old age. The middle-men,
including machinery, insurance, and a variety of other
agents, and the commission-men, who live on the pro-
ceeds of his labour, live well, dress well, smoke cigars,
and drive about in " bu^iries." All tjood articles of
clothing, furniture, and other furnishing material, are so
expensive that they are beyond the reach of the farmer,
and he must contine himself to the plainest and cheapest
kinds, for which, however, he pays a price which would
buy him good ones in the old countries, and in which
goods of American manufactui*e are sold at least thirty
H THE BRITISH COLONIST.
per cent, less than lie pays f()r tliciii. So much for "pro.
tection," as far as the fanner is concerned. Bill Ny,. •
the humorist, says : " Ten of the Western States Iwv \
got about 3,500,000,000 dollars of mortgages on tlair
farms, and that don't cover the chattel morto-ao-os til,
with town clerks on farm maehineiy. stock, waooou.
and even crops. ' by gosh ! ' tliat ain't two inches hirrli ■
under tlie snow. Tliat's what tiie prospect is for farnuN .
now. The Government is rich, but the men that iii.nl,'
it, the men that fought pcrdirie fires, and ^yera'm
wolves, and Injwns, and potatoe bugs, and blizzards, and
Itave paid the debt, and pensions, and everything else,
are left high and diy this cold winter, with a mortgage
of 7,500,000,000 dollars on their farms." An Amerromi.
writing in Braddreets, says : '• The apparent prosperity
of Dakota is based upon the expenditure of the capital
procured by mortgaging the farm lands. Tiie farmers
are spending their farms ; mortgages are at 8 to 10
per cent, and the impoverished farmers have to pay an
additional 10 per cent, on renewals, so that the interest
is really 11 or 12 per cent." Piofessor Henry, in Wis-'
consin, said : " One of the richest prairies in the United
States is that of the St. Croix valley. To-day t]\e
richest i)art of it is almost without fences ; the majority
of the farm buildings, especially the barns, are poor, and
the people complain bitterly of hard times." The A^'eiv
York Post recently called attention to the fact that one
of its correspondents counted— in a drive on the main
road from Lo\vell, Mass, to Windham, New Hami)shire,
(a distance of 12 miles)— six deserted sets of farm build-
ings, besides several which had already gone to ruin ;
while fields and pastures were growing up to wood.
INTRODUCTORY. 15
The Bureau of Labour of Michigan reports that dur-
ing the year ending June 3()bh, 1887, there were 1,GG7
foreclosures and 244 sales by levy of execution on farm
property, or nearly four times more than in Ontario,
Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward
Island taken together ; the total ^/opulation of Michigan
being 800,000 less than that of Ontario alone, and the
value of farms being about 23(),0()0,00()dols.less than those
of 0\\i\\x\o {vide report of Dominion Statistician of -Agri-
cultural Department). In some of tlie older sections of
the United States large areas have been abandoned,
being no longer capable of producing a paying crop ;
while in a large section of Ionia, a choice portion of the
fertile West, the corn crop has declined in twenty-five
years from 40 to 22 bushels per acre. Mr. Reeve re-
marks " that the restoration of these de]»leted lands is
beyond the capacity of the ordinary farmer."
If we turn to tlie great pasture regions of the West,
we find that similar improvident methods have been
pursued l)y the stockmen ; large heads of cattle and
sheep with inadequate or no provision for winter, re-
sulting in heavy losses and in an impoverished and
degenerated progeny, and the utter destruction of the
pasturage by over-crowding. Looking at the tind:)er
resources of the country, we find that thousands of acres
are annually destroyed by fires, and everywhere a reck-
less waste is observed. In the present state of the
markets, the attempt to restore and place in a remun-
erative condition depleted farms, will be attended with
difficulty, but the educated agriculturist will find
methods of doing this, and succeed, when the nature of
the soil permits, and with the advantages of a rapidly
16
THE BKITISU COLONIST,
inoroasin., population an.l an i^.Z^^^^T^^^^^^
siiponor piodiictions. ' '
The ]^itish i^inner who is at least making a livi. 1
and ni the enjoyment of the comforts of EnHi>
l><>nie l.fe may go further an<l fare worse. But for U i
who decKle to emigrate, and f}„d superior attractions ^ e
this country, the outlook for agriculturists is not nui- 1
so gloomy as it nnght seem. Mr. Reeve savs • " K. 1
men realise the possihilities of an acre of ground Tl '
bare statement that it contains 4:3,5GO square feet co.
yoys httle ineaning. It is not <lifficult to grow upon a^
individual toot of that surface, a product of iiowo.
plants, vegetables, or small fruits, that is worth fi^v
cents. This ratio applied to the entire acre would c.iy,
a product to the value of 2178 dollars. This resultli.
actually been accomplished."
Unfortunately, however, there is not room for moiv'
than a comparatively limited number of market-
gardeners, and it is a profession that requires special
training, and is rather overdone in the eastern aivl
middle States. But in the West, in the vicinity of r.,,,w^
nig cities, destined to be manufacturing centres, the
intelligent management of even a few acres will at
least, support a family. It is estimated that it recniires
a capital of at least :]0() dols. an acre to manarre a
niarket-garden, and the work is hard and constant
Thei-e IS a growing demand for a supeiior qnality of
fruit, and vegetables, and meat. Farms can be bouglit
111 favourable situations, whieh can be made to pay a
dividend on the investment, by skilful management
where others have failed. In this country, as in Europe,'
all grades of " professions " are gieatly overcrowded '
INTRODUCTORY. 17
much iiioio so, in fact. There are not patients enoufj^li
for half the doctors, nor clients enou<>;h for half the
lawyers, nor churches enough for one-fifth the preachers.
Young men crowd into the cities in search of employ-
ment, and there is a laj'ge surplus of book-keepers, clerks
and others, seeking an entry into connnercial life. In
the West, storekce})ers of all denominations rush to any
point at which the tide of emigration liov/s, and business
competition is keen — and there are more stores than
there is business for. A man without interest and
special (|ualifications, will have nmch difiiculty in procur-
ing employment in cities, and in which his salary would
do little more than support him, but skilful mechanics
can always find em])loymcnt. The purcliasing power of
money is so nnich greater in England than the States,
that a liiglier rate of wages is absolutely necessary.
There has been a general cutting down of wages, how-
ever, without a corresponding decrease in the cost of
living, so that the clerk or working-man will find him-
s6lf little, if anything, better oft' than at home. With
;he exception of some of the common necessaries of life,
3verything is much higher in price, and not so durable
as a rule. American m^ods sold in Eno-land are often of
a better quality and st)ld at a lower price than they can be
obtained for here. Farming implements, carefully made,
are sold for one-third less than the American farmer
pays. It is reported that the " Oliver " chilled plough
has bt!en sold in Liver])ool for seven dollars, but the
American farmer pays fourteen.
Farming machinerj'- and implements made for exhibi-
tion or exportation are carefully constructed, but mucli
of it Bold to the farmers here is defective in structure ;
B
^^ TIJE liRITlSir COLONIST.
i'iv.,u(.'nt breakanvs occur hy tlio bmikin^ of castings
iiu'tal of poor .luality, and the blacksmith l.as i)lcM,tv''^u
work in tliis way. Many of tho wa^r.ons, an.l mosi T
tiie vcl.iclcH called " l.unoies." are very iliiiisy instruct 1
»nul arc constai iy breaking-. ^
Americans con.plain of I^nnlish nianufactuicl artie gol
iH'ni-to,, licavy, solid, an.l cun.bcrsomc ; but they c pn
tan.lyn-o to th., ,>ther extrcuic, ami make their ii„,,^ ^^
inonts an.l vchichvs ton li^ht an.l weak in structure i of
wear well, (specially when material of tlie clicapcbt u\.h
most niieiior (pmhty is used, as it freciuently is.
The settler should learn the names of the best makers
befi>rc purchasin^^r any machinery or implements. As
Km- as manufactuivi-s can sell inferior articles at re-
iiiunerative prices, they will not make any chancre for
the bettei-, an.l the <leman.ls have been so enormous that
a ready sale has been foun.l for them.
One of the <,a-eat industries of North America is the
"Real Estate" business. This includes money-lendincr
at usurious interest. The term " Chevalier (rindustrie''
nnirht bo appropriately applied to many of the frater-
nity, ^rhe people are subject to fre(|uent epi.lemics of
" real estate craze " called " booms." The last and worst
of these fevers invaded Kansas City, and from there
e.xtemled to Southern California, which it left in a state
of coilajise, and is now linrrerinrr on the North Pacilic
Coast. The real estate man is very in<,a'nious in his
methods of startin^r this "boom," one of which is to put
a fictid.jus price on a piece of property sold; for in-
stance, a stran^rer arrives in a town, desiring to invest,
say 10,000 dollars : he applies to a real estate man,'
who promises to look out for a suitable investment, and
mTRODVCTOkV, 19
approtichcs sumo property lioMcr who, he Uiiuws, would
HoU at a cortfiin price, say 5000 duUars. He tolls him
he is not askiiif^ cnout^h for his property, and oHers to
get him a much better price, if he will give him half
the excess. The agreement l)eing satisfactory, the lot is
sold for 10,000 dols., and the news spreads ra2)idly that
property has doubled in value. In other cases fictitious
prices are recorded. Property thus bought at a peiiod
of inflation is not, in most cases, worth half that is paid
j^i r it. Real estate agents have made fortunes in a
aek. Money poured in on all sides ; trains were
I's ammed witli passengers seeking investments ; the
^'^ )tcls were unable to hold tliem, and they slept in the
'- issag^s and on the stairways. At San ])icgo Post
1' fficc, California, people had to wait their turn in a line
fc {tending all across tlie street for the distribution of
lail. Some of them liad boxes to sit on, and lunch to
' at, to relieve the tedium. Great efforts were ma<lo on
■ ,he part of the International Comp. to extend the boom
nto Lower California, but with little success ; towns
md cities were built and laid out, and blocks of buildinn*-
lots sold (on paper), but the reputation of Southern
California was too much for Lower California. While
the fever lasted, town lots doubled, tripled, ([uadrupled
in value, with a rapidity which took away their
owners' breath, and all persons who had cash or could
borrow invested in them. Miles off the cities, on desert
land, new towns were laid out, and, headed by bands of
music, the people, like sheep led to slaughter, were
conducted to the sales of the lots. The Louisville
Courier Journal, commenting on the result of this
craze, says : " All investors have suffered, home people
io
7 HE nia-HSlI COLONIST.
niul (uiUi.Ic pmcliascis alike. Tlic majority cf , ^
fortunes wore lost as .suddoiily as tluy we.c ac.,ui,. ^
o
be ivsistod, and many porsons who at one time t'anci. i,
I'cvv men were al.lc to quit in tiin... Tl.c to.ni,tati,m o
inalvo just (.110 more .successful ileal was too sti-oii.-
tliemsclves rich liavo now nothin-but unsaleal)le lotsi v
u Kansas or California town. This has been a costl «
esson to the American people, an. I its example is ,„; t
hkely to be entin-ly lost. Jiooms are hurtful to ai.v t
town or country, no matter how c^reat its advaii- t
ta-cs or prospects may bo. ]]y no process of calcuhi. i
tion or reasoning can the real estate of a town 1 ;
made to be worth two or three times as much as it Ava« i
a week before. There is no doul.t many parts of tl,- 1
West have been seriously injured by the wild specula-
tion ill real estate, lianks have faile.l, land companion
have o-one int(; liquidation, farms are s.)ld under tli- ■
hammer, buildings are left half-tinished, and the genera
condition of linancial allaiis is most unhappy. Innnigra.
tion, which is the life blood of New States, lias decrease
considerably, and many former settlers are returning t
their old homes in the East.
It is sai<l that the assets of the suspended Firs
National JJank of Abilene, Kansas, consist almost en-
tiiely of land mortgages, and that its failure was due t
the collapse of the great Kansas real estate boom, maiiv
pieces of property being mortgaged to it for double thiir
present value. It is pro[)osed that the Government
institute an extensive system of irrigation for tin'
purpo.se of reclaiming millions of acres of land, so far,
almost useless. Systems of irrigation by companies havr
already proved auccx'ssful, and there can be no doubt
INTRODUCTORY. 21
tliat ail iminons(i area of laud can, in this way, be made
very productive ; and it is estiuiatod that hind tliat is
only woi'tli a dollar now, would be valued at at least ten
doUai'swith in'iixation facilities. Climate isof thofjreatest
iin[)orfcauce to the settler : au<l it is too often if:jnored in
view of other advautai^os ollcred him. Peopl* who
settle in malai'ial districts, or relax inn* climates unsuited
to their constitutions, will, if not seriously aflected, lose
their energy and ability for the vigorous prosecution of
their business, and many failures have been noted from
this cause. Persons of a bilious temperament should
avoid districts in which bilious and malarious fevers are
prevalent, and the relaxing climate of the Southern
States, or climates with much humidity and great
summer heat.
Catarrhal-pulmonary and rheumatic affections are
very counnon on the Atlantic coast, and in the vicinity
of larij^e lakes in the middle States.
In districts having a vcyy dry atmosphere with great
altitude, and sudden variations of temperature, muscular
rheumatism prevails. In many of the large cities in the
Eastern States, such as New York, rhiladel})hia, Balti-
more, Washington, F'ttsburg. Harrisburg, and various
cities in New Jersey, and on the Hudson River, the
heat in summer is very prostrating, producing sun-
stroke, and great mortality amongst small children. In
the Central States, Chicago, St. Louis, Indianapolis, and
other towns in their respective States, are subject to ex-
cessive heat and its attendant evils. The whole valley
of the Missouri, from Council Bluffs to New Orleans, and
that of the lower Mississippi is very malarious, and
subject to high sunnner temperature, and this is espoci-
22
THE BRITrSH COLONIST,
ally the case with roo-ar,l to th;it portion of the val!
below St. Louis; as also the valleys of the 01,
Arkansas and White Rivers. All these valleys are siil
ject to uumdations, which greatly increase the prevnili-
malarial fever.s, after the waters subside ; and the i".
habitants present a jaundiced, melancholy appear^,,'
and take quinine and calomel to excess. All thron-
the fiat, swampy lands of Indiana, Illinois, and in maii
parts of iMichigan, fever and a^iruo pi«evail ; also in tliii
portion of Iowa adjacent to the Mississippi River, audi,,
Missoui-i, alonc^ that river and its tributaries. Through.
out Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas, and most of Kaiisa>
bilious fever and a.irue prevail ; and in all the lowland-
of the Southern States to the east.
Congress passed the " Alien Bill." March 3rd, LSn;
which prohibited persons not citizens, or who liave m
lawfully declared their intention of becoming such, f nm.
acquiring, holding, or owning real estate in the territoji..-
or the district of Columbia, except sueli as may ])e ac-
quired by inheritance, or in the collection of debts hen-
tofore created.
The follosving is a list of the States and ^i ei-ritories in
which aliens may or may not hold real estate—
STATES IX WlllClf ALIENS CAN HOLD LANDS.
^ Alabama, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut,*
Fl(u-ida*, Georgia, Indiana, Io^^a, Kansas, Kentucky,
Louisiana, Afaine, Maryland, Massachusetts, :Michigaii,
Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jei^ev,
* Resident aliens may hold hiiida, and nou-resideiit for receiviiig
only.
INTRODUCTORY. 23
North Carolina, Oliio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode
Island, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Vermont,
Virginia and West Virginia.
STATES AXD TERRITORIES IN WHICH xA LIENS CANNOT HOLD
LANDS.
Alaska, Arizona, Dakota,* Delaware,* Idaho,*
Illinois*-|- Minnesota,:|: Montana, New Mexico,* New
York,* Utah,! Wisconsin,! Wyoming, District of
Columbia, and Washington.
In the purchase of any property, or in any kind of
investment, extreme caution is necessary. The country
is full of land-sharks on the look-out for tender feet,
as newcomers are called ; and tlieir ingenuity in methods
of deception is remarkable. The county records of
property should be examined for mortgages, and the
" Deeds " of the property signed by all persons having
any sort of claim.
A mistake Englishmen make, is paying too much ; for
the price is nearly always advanced to meet their de-
mands. The strictest business methods should be adopted
in all financial transactions, and if you allow any one to
get "ahead of you," as it is called, by a smart " Yankee
trick," the odium will fall on yjoxi unfortunately.
There are no Small Debts Courts, and the expenses of
collecting, on " Judgment," a small sum will amount to
* Residents can hold real estate by becoming naturalized. In
Illinois there are special provisions about sale ^Yithin six years.
t May hold 320 acres only, unless acquired by inheritance or in
collection of debts.
X By inheritance, or in collection of debts.
24 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
more than tlie sum in question, Tluis, a " Judo^niont
for 14 dollars costs the plaintiff 100 dollars. Litigation
is attended with great expense and uncertainty^ aiii]
is ruinous to a man of moderate means. In the recoverv
of large sums of money b}'- legal procedure, the elieiii
cften receives only half the amount awarded. Tli,;
following extract is from the iYt'U' York Herald : " All
hail to Judo'c Laui'cnce ! He has liad the courao-o to
pronounce excessive a lawyer's charge of 5,235 dollars,
for collecting 9,543 dollars for a widow in Ireland •
from the estate of her deceased brother in Schcnectatly.
Such exhibitions of heroism upon the bench are too rare
to pass unnoticed ! "
Political intinence and the use of money enters sn
freely into legal procedures, that verdicts are frequently
at variance with the evidence, and " Justice " has tlie
bandage over her eyes so arranged, that she can see who
is going to pay the most for her services.
In secuj'ing legal advice, great care should be taken in
selecting a legal adviser, for there are many pettifoggers
who make a business of inciting litigation, and who are
most unscrupulous. An alien has the right to appeal
at once to the "Supreme Court " from a decision by a
Count}^ Court. The best way to avoid trouble, in the
way of litigation, is to adopt strict business methods,
which is the custom of the country. This is specially
to be observed in the matter of makinf]f contracts. Never
pay in advance of work done. There are two bad kinds
of paymasters, tlie one does not ])ay at all, and the other
pays before the money is earned.
The settler can biing in, free of duty, all articles of
household effects which can be shown on "af^davit" to
INTRODUCTORY, 25
have been in use 12 months. Any reasonable amount
of weaving apparel, obviously for the person's own use,
and wliich has been fitted on or worn by him, can be
passed through the Custom House; but anything be-
yond this will subject him to nuich trouble and annoy-
ance. All tools or implements of any kind in use, per-
taining to a person's profession, are free of duty. For
any changes, apply to American Consul at Liverpool or
London.
Through rates of freight on "household effects" boxed
to the Pacific Coast or any terminal point, are about
4_2o^ dollars per lOO lbs. To the middle States (points on
Missouri or iVlississippi Rivers), \'^}^^ dollars per 100 lbs.
Heavy articles of household eft'ects can be shipped direct
to the Pacific Coast, by vessels from Liverpool, at very
low rates.
Goods sent over American roads should bo very care-
fully packed, to save breakage as mucli as possible.
Passengers' baggage. Hunted to 150 ll)s., should be in very
stron2f trunks of medium size. The American " bafffjaofe-
smasher" handles passengers' trunks very roughl}', es-
pecially if they have a foreign appearance. If they are
ver}^ heavy he will not lift, but roll and kick them, and
if ho happens to be in a bad temper, may drop your
trunk on one corner. The American baggage-system is,
however, nearly perfect, and the " wreck " of your
baggage with the checks attached is sure to " turn up "
at the end of the journey. Any baggage in excess of
150 lbs. should be boxed — (trunks will not be taken
except by Express Company at higli rates) — and de-
livered to any of the freight offices in New York, and
the chaiges must be prepaid on all household effects.
26 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Cab liiro in New York is hig'li, and tlie liackuiun iioU,!
for extortion and iiui)ndence. It is said that one df
these " worthy men," while hatliing at Loni;,' Brancli was
suddenly confronted hy a shark, which, however,
." blushed " and left him. '
The stranger should ask the hotel-clerk to settle for
him. Persons desiring to remain any time in New York
for a week or more, in an economical way, can, liy
looking at the Herald, select a small room in a respect-
able house and street for twodols. per week, and oet
their meals at restaurants at from 40 cents, to 75 cents,
Street cars and elevated railroads will convey a passeno-er
with small valise only, to any part of the city, on their
routes, for 5 cents. Rates of transfer for bao-o-acre to aii'l
from any part of the city to points of departure are oO
cents, for a trunk and 40 for a valise. One trunk can lie
taken on a cab free. Two classes of tickets are issue!
by the railroad companies, the limited and unlimitcil.
On the former no stop can be made, on the latter, sold at
an advanced rate, the passenger can, on informing the
conductor, break the journey at any point. This applies
to first-class tickets only; but on second-class, or colonist
tickets, west of the Missouri River to the Pacific Coast,
the privilege of stopping 10 <lays is a-corded, for the
purpose of seeing land, or any pai't of the country. At
"Kansas City," Omaha, and St. Paul, tourist sleeping-cars
for second-class passengers will be found, l)ut up to thesi
points the journey of the second-class passenger is a most
trying one, f>ften in a crowded car in a contaminated
atmosphere, altornately o[>pi-esse<l with heat and
smothered with dust, and without the privilege of
adjourning to a sleeping-car; on a second-class ticket
I
INTRODUCTORY. 27
ineals are 75 cents, at tlio stations with 20 minutes to
"bolt" them. Passengers for the Soutliern States can
take steamers from New York to all points on the coast.
Transcontinental passengers, when at Chica(]^o, should
look out for "sharpers," and under no circumstances
show their tickets to any but a " conductor " in uniform,
or surrender tlieir baggage-checks to any but authorised
express agents, for purpose of transfer, if wishing to
stop. Baggage checked through to western points will
be transferred free of charge, and cannot, as a rule, be got
at until its destination is reached ; but at " Kansas City,"
Omaha, or St. Paul, the l)aggage-master will permit the
passenger, on producing his checks, to open and remove
such articles as he may require, and there will be time to
lay in a stock of provisions for the journey west. Great
care must bo taken of the checks, or much trouble will
be encountered in recovering the baggage ; and they
should never bo given up except on its delivery. On
arrival at the end of the journey, baggage may be left at
baggage department 24 hours without charge. Money
should bo taken in sufhcient quantity for the journey
only. Take drafts on a bank in New York, where
exchan<2je will be made and "drafts" issued, which are
good at any point in the West, on jwoper identification
of the person presenting ; otherwise a delay must occur
for their collection. To avoid this delay, request the
banker in New York to forward a "Letter of Credit,"
with specimen of signature, to any bank in the " West,"
or get " Postal Orders " for small sums. No drafts on
New York, or London, will be paid without identification
by some well-known person ; and where this cannot be
obtained, it is necessary for a specimen of signature to be
*S THE BRITISH COLONIST.
sent to Xew York in tlio first place, ^rucll inconvonionee
has been caused by neglect of these precautions. \.
some time will ]M-obably elapse before any invcstinciit
can be niade of capital, it should be deposited at inteiest,
Many of the Western Banks allow 8 per cent, on deposits
for 3 months and over, varying with the amount. The
New York bankers will tell yow the ** standing" of anv
bank in the West, on inquiry; or "Savings Banks" in
the East can be used. On arrival at New York, or other
port, the tourist or colonist should provide himself witli
Raud, M'Nally & Co.'s pocket maps, referring to any part
of the continent they may be going to, which can be
obtained at most stationers for a small sum, and are
very complete and convenient. Of the routes to the
Pacific Coast, the Union Pacific, via Ogden and the
Sacramento \^Uley, and via the Denver and Rio-Grande
line— from Denver to Ogden— afford the finest scenery,
starting either from Kansas City or Omaha, but i
secoTid-class passenger cannot get a ticket for a con-
tinuous journey r/a the Rio-Grande line for Southern
and Lower California, the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa
Fe, and the Union Pacific, via San Francisco. For a loiii,'
round, with grand scenery, take the Canadian Pacific
fi-om Quebec to Montreal, or the passenger can book
from eastern cities at the Canadian Pacific office, for a
lower rate, via Chicago, St. Paul, and Vancouver, to
San Francisco; getting a through colonist car at St
Paul. For the South, the Piedmont Air Line, via
Pennsylvania R.R. from New York to New Orleans and
intermediate points in Southei-i; States, is the best; aii<l
from New Orleans the Central or Texas Pacific lines, for
points ill Texas ; or, for the latter State, tlie Missouri,
INTRODUCTORY. i<)
Kansas, and Texas, from St. Louis, via Pennsylvania.
The colonist-cars whicli are provided for second-class
transcontinental passengers, are in some ways pleasanter
to travel across the plains in than the ordinary Pullman-
cars (which cannot be entered by persons liolding
second-class tickets) — for they are cooler and pleasanter
in summer, and not so ** close " and overheated as the
former. In winter the American car-stove is an abomina-
tion in some respects, for there is no regulating the heat,
which often becomes insutierable ; and if a window or
door is opened you are liable to get chilled, and your
eyes filled with dust, and yuur lap with cinders. At
night in the Pullman sleeping-cars, the heating stoves
being in charge of negro porters, who are unreliable
measurers of heat, the unfortunate passenger often wakes
up in a sort of vapour-bath. If he has an upper-berth
the heat ascends, and he gets an extra share ; if in a
lower-berth, the air is excluded on all sides, and it is not
mucli better. Passonn;ers arrivinor from the Pacitic
Coast are very likely to contract a terrible cold, owing
to these overheated cars, and the change of climate.
Another serious objection to the stove is that those who
have U) sit at the ends of the car are slowly roasted at
times, and, finally, if the car iipsets, the stove may be
deposited in your lap ; in fact it is a common sequence to
railway accidents, in which cars are overturned, and
horrible results follow. A new system of heating by
steam from the boiler is being adopted. The great ob-
jection to the colonist-cars' run over the "American"
transcontinental lines, is the presence, very often, of
very rough and offensive passengers, and the cr,rs are
not kept clean on the journey, and, in fact, arc often in
30 THE BRiriSll COLONIST.
a most hlthy coiuliii.n. At n.miic of tl,o tonnini of the,,
road., n()tal,ly at tho Union Pacific at Onialia s,„„e
attempt is made to sort the inisson^-ors, puttin-r the
most respectable in appearance into a car by them.^lves
but no reliance can be placed on this. A party of
emigrants amounting to 25 can ol>tain a car to them.
selves, and can, then, be very comfortable. Tho usual
plan, with regard to provisions, is to lay in a sullieieiit
stock of canned meats and vegetables, with bread and
butter, and tea, etc., which can be made by use of i\,
car stove, or a pocket spirit-lamp. Tiic price of meals
en roate, being 75 cents, (rather over three shillincrs
amounting to nine shillings a day), the sum for a lam
famdy would be considerable on a four or six days'
journey. Bread and fruit can ]>e bought at stations'.
m.^e at a very high rate. Milk is often ollcre.l ior sale
but turned condensed midv should be taken. A cr,,at'
nuisance on all ordinary trains is the book-peddler or
news-agent." wl... is often offensive and per.sistent in
trying to make you purchase his wares, whieh he ki.ully
orces on you at a proiit, to himself, of J to iOO per ceni
lie phes you with fruit, candy, nuts, and " dea.llv
cigars at 5d. a-piece. Again he appears, from his stui-;
box at the head car of the train, staggering along with
a pile of sensational novels up to his ehin ; which he
unceremonious^.', distributes to the passengers, by dron-
pnigtlu^m into their laps. and. occasionally, a violent
lurch ot the tram may cause an avalanche of " deteetiv.
stones o descend on the bullied passengers. Presently
the peddler returns and urges you to buy, and scowls if
you don t ; but he will try 30U again with something
else, until you pa:y to get rid of him, or get an<'ry youiC
INTRODUCTORY. 31
self and cxcliungo " civilities." Tliesc worthies arc
seldom iierniitted in the Pullman-cars, and when there
behave tlieniselvcs. The colonist-cai'S on the " Canadian
Pacific " are superior to any. They are kept clean, and
a superior class of passengers are met with. The em-
ployees are also civil and attentive to the passengers,
and, in every respect, the C.P.ll. is the best trans-
continental line in North America. A short journey
from Quebec, or 1 5 hours from New York, will i)lace the
colonist passenger at Montreal, from \ hich place he will
get a through sleeping-car to Vancouver and intermediate
points. There are two special limited express trains
run over the Pennsylvania railway, which is the best
equipped and constructed line in Nortli America. The
first of these specials, the Chicago Limited Express,
leaves New York at 9 A.M., running the distance of 892
miles in 24 hours, an average of 37 miles an hour. The
second special, the Florida Limited, leaving New York
at 9.30 A.M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, runs
to St. Augustine, Florida, a* distance of 1125 miles, in 34
hours ; an average of about 33 miles an hour. Both
these trains are run through without change, and are
splendidly ccpiipped ; consisting entirely of drawing-
room, sleeping, dining, and ladies' cars. There are
library, smoking, and bath-room compartments, and the
cars are heated by steam, and have both electric and gas
lights (in reserve). Some special improvements in these
cars arc the observation car, having unusually large and
central l)ay windows, affording an excellent view of the
country. There are no square corners, every corner
being artistically rounded off and ornamented with
quaint designs in carving. For the summer season some
3a THE BRITISH colonist.
of the new cars have seats upliolsteied in a wliitc ImiJ
fabric, that imparts to them not only a briglit, cluanln
appearance, but rendeis tlieni far cooler than tlie phis[
now used for this purpose. .
The Tulhuan Safety Vestibules are used on tin h
tiains, i)ruvidin<^ safe conununicatiou between i,,
cars, steadying the motion of long trains, and deiulen-
inir the noise of the wheels. The lavatories, dre^siiu
and bath rooms are perfect in their appointnicuts
and there is. also, a barber's room. The electric liglii
are so ai'rangi.Ml that one may sit or lie in one's bciil
and read. IJeyond the ladies' bath-room is a state
room, linislied in white anel gold and hung with lici
drapery.
It contains an uj^per and lower double berth amli
sofa. The finishing is elaborate, and the appointiueiii
render it a dainty boudoir. Connected with the state
room, and opening into it, is a lavatory and a piiviU
toilet-room. The section nearest the state-room is iitte
with liandsonie velour curtains, which, when hung i
position, form an improvised compartment for the u.sci
invalids, or others desiring a certain degree of seclusio
The farther end of the ear presents a large drawing-rooi
of similar st3de and finish ; and. by an ingenious emplo;
nient of folding-doors, a very complete state-room nu
be cut off from the main body of the drawing-ruu:
The drawing-room will acconnnodate five, and the stal
room four people, and the two compartments may
used en Hnitc, or as separate room.s. All the slec})!!
cars are appointed in the same manner, with the c
ception of the ladies' bath-room, which is only provid
in one car of a given train. In all cars the toilet-rot
INTRODUCTOKV. 33
for men is entirely enc^lust'd, so that aL.sulutc privacy is
secured for tlie toilet.
At stations along tlie n^ute the quotations of the
stock market are received and posted for the information
of passengers interested. Tlu.'re is also a stenographer
who will attend to any correspondence required, or
transmit telegrams. It is even suggested that the use
of a phonogra])h be employed, so that those passengers
who dislike the exertion of reading, can have the con-
tents of a book reatl to them.
In addition to the usual attendants, a ladies'-maid is
now appointed. There are excellent meals served in the
dining-cars, at a charge of ] dol. Tlie fare from New
York to Jacksonville or 8t. Augustine is about 2!) dols.
15 c. The extra-fare tickets, including (jue double berth
in slee])ing-car, or seat in a section of tlie same, cost 15
and 10 dols. respectively. A Pan-Ameiican transcon-
tinental route is now talked of, and, in all probability, in
a few years a luxurious journey will be able to be made
to the princi[)al cities of South America. The New York
Central and the " Baltimore and Ohio " Railways also
run limited express trains to Chicago, nuxking nearly
the same time. The fastest time made to the Pacitic
Coast is by the " Western Expi'ess," leaving New York
at 6 P.M. daily. This is owing to its prompt connections
with Western roads, the time being six daj^s, four hours,
and twenty minutes, and its arrival at Chicago at 9.30 p.m.
the following day. The first-class rate from New York
to San Francisco, or other terminal points on the Pacific,
is about 85 dols., and by the limited express to Chicago,
89 dols. The extra fare for sleeping-car will be al)out
20 dols. By the Canadian Pacific from New York or
C
34 Till': JiRlTJSII COl.OXlST.
Boston, tn points on tlu- I'aciliii Coast, the faro is 7,') ,y
Hrst-class : and linu', sfvijii days to Vancouver and tw>
days to San Kraiicisco l.y rad, v'm Tacovia and I'oitliiii,,
and tliivc days hy rat-ilic Steamer tVoni Vancouver t
San Francisco.
TJio endnrrant rate, for steanisldp passent^'ers only, fmn
Now York to (.!ldca^^^o is l;] dojs., and from New Y<.ii
to the I'acitic Coast, any terndnal point, 5S dols. 2o ,
Tins class of passe niters must leave Now York (liytli.
Tennsylvaida route) by tli.- i\ici lie Mail at 8 I'.M.oiii
special eudorant cars. Tiie aiT.inovmcnts arc similar m,
other lines. Other second-class i)asson,i,reis pay a rate of
about G.S dols. fiom New York to the i'acitic Coast, an,
17 dols. to Chicai^o, an<l can leave on any train buttii
"Inidted." They must, however, confine themselves t
the forward second-class and ordinaiy smokino--cai.
which on the jouniey soon bcconje in a most lilthy cmi-
dition from -the abounnable habits of chewing tohacc
and expectorating, and throwing nut shells on' tlie tl
These cars are also very dusty, and have a most fatiguiii.
vibrating motion, and are most objectionable in every win
The Cana<lian IV-itic Company issue second-da-
tickets irom Boston, XeNv York, Philadelphia, ai,:
Chicago, at .5:} dols. from the former, and :{? dols. fmiii
Chicago, \)M St. Paul, to all points on tiie Pacific Cua>i.
availal)le on any train but a limited. Tiie distance fruu,
Chicago to St. Paul is 410 miles, from thence to Van
couver, 1].C., ],f):}0 miles. Fr.un St. Paul to Poitlan.l
Oregon, is 2,ti72 miles, and to San Francisco ;],044 mil.^
The distance from New York to San Francisco, r.<
Montival, is about 4,108 miles. From New York to
Portland (/vV/ Chieago and Council Blulis, Union Pacilid
()i)i'
iiv.
INTKODUCTORy. 35
ia 3,125 miles. Now York to Sau Francisco, via Kansas
City, Union Pacific, is 3,279 miles, and via Council lUulls,
3,224 miles. Chica^^o to Kansas City, 455, and Chicago
to Council BluH's, 500 miles. From New York to San
Francisco, vUi Kansas City and Albu(iuor([Uo, New
Mexico, the distance is {v'ui Atcldson, Topeka & Santa Ft5
line), 3,007 miles. The intermediate distances, including
points in Southern California, are as follows: — Chicago to
Albuquen[ue, N.M., 91S miles; Albuquerque to JJarstow
Junction, 74-1 miles ; Barstow Junction to San Bcrnadino,
81 miles ; San Bornadino to Los Angelos, G05 miles ;
San Bornadino to San Diego, 124 miles. During the
winter months the Union Pacitic Railway is liable to
obstructions by immense ffills of snow in its passage
through the Sierra Nevada mountains, notwithstanding
the construction of forty miles of snow-sheds, which
seriously impair the views of the mountains. Some of
the canons are this 3'ear tilled to a depth of a hundred
feet. Immense rotary snow ploughs, to which five or
six heavy locomotives are attached, are driven into the
snow-drift and force a way through, leaving two huge
walls of snow on either side of the tract. This j'ear it
is reported that there is as uuich as 100 feet of snow on
the snow-sheds, and miusual difficulty is experienced in
keei)ing the line open. The California and Oregon, shoi u
line of the Union Pacitic to Portland, and the Northern
Pacitic Railways are also subject to blockade by snow, but
the Canadian Pacific seems, fortunately, exempt from
theseinterruptions; although an immense amount of snow
falls in the Selkirk Range. The blockades are caused by
drifting, and avalanches, of which the Canadian Pacific
hay had one exp(>rience only.
THE BRITISH C0L0NIS7\
I'lio transcontinental trains in the States are occasion-
ally stopped and robbed by outlaws called " road agents,"
and these affairs have been rather frequent of late years,
and have occurred principally on the Southern Pacific,
Missouri, Kansas, and Texas, and once on the Xorthc rn
Pacitic Railway. In a few cases the male passengers
were robbed, but generally the " Express Car " is tlie
object aimed at. The robbery is effected in the following
way: — At some small station on the great plains, or iu
the forests of the Indian Territory, at night, three or
four armed men get on the engine as it is about to start,
and persuade the engineer to run the train a short dis-
tance off, when it is stopped. If it is desired to rob tlie
passengers, two men, seemingly, can do it, going through
the cars and taking up contributions from their terror-
stricken inmates. If the express car only is wanted,
tliat and the engine is uncoupled and taken away from
tlie train, when it is robbed, and left. While this is croinii'
on the employees on the train are pacified by the muzzle
of a revolver or Winchester rille, an<l in few cases has
any effort at defence been made.
The robbers are polite to women, and do not disturb
them, and male passengers do not often carry much casli
with them, and, therefore, much less is gained than by
getting the contents of the safe in the express car, which
is now the most fashionable way of conducting the busi-
ness. The men who robbed the Northern Pacific train in
]\lontana a few years ago have not been captured, ami
two or more cases have occurred in the past year, on
Southern lines. It may seem strange that Americans,
who generally cairy revolvers, and are usually very fiee
in their use, should permit themselves to be robbed in this
INTROD UCTOR V. 37
way; but, as regards the employees, their attention being
entirel}^ taken up with their duties, tliey are easily taken
at disadvantage and disarmed.
American hotels tlirougliout the continent are, as a rule,
well appointed and supplied with many contrivances to
contribute to the comfort of their guests. Some Ameri-
cans, after a short visit, have made many complaints
about English hotels, but, excepting perhaps a few of the
leadinfj hotels in larije cities, there is not in the United
States an hotel in which one can ffet as fjood a dinner as
can be obtained at almost any small provincial hotel in
England. In the American hotel of the lirst class, there
is a great variety of food, vegetables, and pastry, but the
entries savour, often, of a common origin, and the meats
lack flavour, are generally tough, or their juices dissipated
in cooking, and the cooking generally is bad. As regards
American meats, they are not yet, even the best of them
equal in quality or flavour to English. The best of the
American beef goes to England, and to the large cities,
and the choicest stall-fed meat falls to the share of the
clubs and the plutocrats.
The mctliods of cooking and serving meats etre bad.
Meat is cooked, usually, a day or two only after being
butchered. There is no such thins: as road beef in
America, unless in the family of some epicure, or special
restaurant. The use of the oven is universal, which will
deteriorate the flavour of the best meat. (The invention
of a wire gauze door to stove ovens, eflects a great im-
provement in the baking process, but it is not generally
used,) When served, beef is cut in slices half an incli
thick, and is usually very tough ; and mutton chops are
not very much thicker, and consist, principally, of carti-
38 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
lage and bone. There are restaurants which make a
speciality of serving steaks n.nd chops, a I'Anglaise, for
an extra consideration. Ham and bacon of the quality
of that in England is not to be obtained ; not l)ecause it
cannot be produced, but owing to the method of feeding,
and the food employed. Swine fed entirely on maize
can never be of fine flavour, irrespective of the breed,
and when the connnon hog of tlie countr}^ is in question
it is still worse. The object has been to produce quantity
at the least cost, and until there is an increased demand
for meat of the best quality, no improvement is likoly to
be made in feeding. Swine flesh produced on the North
Pacific Coast, fed on grass and wheat, is much superior
in flavour to that fed on maize.
The cliarofes at American hotels rano^e from 2 dols. 50 c.
to 5 dols. per day. On the Pacific Coast the charges
are lower, being about 8 dols, per day for a first-class
hotel. Hotels throughout the South are to be noted for
the inferiority of the cuisine, with a few exceptions.
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
CONTENTS.
AuEA, 40— Mountains and Hivors, 40— Valley of the Frazer, 41— New
Westmiuster, 41 — Navigation of the Frazer, 42 — "Climate on the
Frazer" (Lower), 42 — Delta, 42— Langley Settlement, 4S— Surrey
Settlement, 4.3— Mud Bay, Elgin and North Blufl", 4:i-Hair3
Prairie, 43 — Route of Stages, 44— Floods in the Frazer, 44 — ^laple
Ridge, 44 -Port Haney, 44 — Port Hammond, 44 Valley of the
Ciiilliwaek, 45 — Kooteney District, 4G — Mining Resourees, 46 —
Cariboo Road, 4G— Exhibitions of Fruit and Vegetables, 4(5 -Peace
River, 47 — I'roposed Route of a Transcontinental Line, 47— ^Nicola
Valley, 47 — Upper Valley of the Frazer and Thompson Rivers, 47
— Kamloops, 47 — Shuswap Lake, 47— Stage Routes, 48- Similka-
meen ^^dley, 48 — Minerals, 48 — Climate, 48— Rarkerville, 4i) —
Vancouver, 49— Scenery, 50— Timber, 50 — Agricultural Products,
50 — Fertility of the Soil, 51 — Imports of Stock, 51 — Prices of Pro-
visions, 51 — Products of Delta Lands, 51 — Burrard Inlet, 52 —
Victoria, 52 — Scenery, 52 — Expenses of Living, 53--Rates of In-
terest, 53 — Labourers' Wages, 54— Boat Building, 54— Value of
Farms, 54 — llay Lands, 54 — Farmerswith Small Capital, 54 — Waiting
for Something to "Turn up," ~)o — Meteorological Record, 55 — Clim-
ate, 56 — ^Interior of Vancouver Island, 57 — Laiul in ^''ictoria Dis-
tinct, 57 — Saanich Peninsula, 57 — Cowichan Valley, 57 — Chemanius,
,57 — ^Nanaimo, 58 — Qualicum, 58 — IJaynes Sound, 58 — Comox,58 — •
Comox Valley, 59 — Scenery, 59~Cro\vn Mountains, 59— Salmon
River, 60 — Government Land, 60 — Fort Rupert, GO — Stations for
Fishermen, 00 — Resources of the Interior of Vancouver Island, GO —
Comox Lake to Albert Canal, 60 — The Island Railroad, GO — Ai'ea
of Agricultural Lands, 61 — The West Coast, 61— Barclay Sound,
61 — Indians, 62 — Cape Mudge Indians, 62 — Miscegenation, 62—
Habits of the Indians, 62 — Indian Canoes, 62 — Hornby and Denmaii
Islands, C3 — MilJuesa of their Climates, 63 — Fine Scenery, 64 —
40 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Shooting on the Ishinds, 65 — Islands in Johnstone Strait, 65 — Life
on the Islands, 65 — Valdez Island, 60 — Game, 66 — Seymour
Isanows, 06 — Dangers oi its Navigation, 66 — Crossing of the Pro-
posed Transcontinental Line, 63 — Texada Island, 66 — Admiral's
Island, 67 — Large Grape Vine, 67 — Pleasures of Cruising, 68 — •
Navigation and Tides, 68 — Law and Order in the Province, 68 —
The Chain G - g at Victoria, 60 — Kstjuinialt, 69 — Sook Harbour,
69 — Shooting and Fishing, 69 — "Salmon Sickness" and its
Treatment, 70— The Salmon Fisheries, 70— The Candle Fish,
71— Bear Shooting on the Skeena River, 71 — The Timber of the
Province, 72 — Method of Sawing Large Trees, 72 — The Queen
Charlotte Islands and their Resources, 73 — Prices of Crown
Lands, 7-1:— Mining Regulations, 75 — The Exemption Act, 76 —
Schools, 76.
The Province of Biitish Columbia extends north from
the international boundary line about 700 miles, having
a breadth of 500 miles, and com]:)rising an estimated
area of 250,000 square miles, or 1G(),()0(),00() acres. Ex-
tending^ through the Province, in a direction little west
of north, are several nearly parallel ranges of mountains.
The Cascades extend along the coast from Washington
State, and ranging east tlie Gold, Selkirk and Rocky
Mountains are successively crossed.
The general surface of the country is exceeding rough,
broken and mountainous. The Columbia River rises in
the south-eastern corner, runs northerly around the upper
end of the Selkirk Range, and then south between that
and the Gold Mountains into the United States. The
Kooteney has its source in the same region, makes a long
reach to the south, crosses the international boundary-
line, crosses again and runs into the Columbia a little
north of the 49th parallel. The Fi-azer River rises at
about the 54th parallel, runs south to near the boundary-
line, and then makes an abrupt turn to the west and
n/s'/TISJI COLUMBIA. 41
discharges into the Straits of Georgia near the 49th
parallel. The Okanagan River flows out of the Okana-
gan Lake, about the 50th parallel, and flows south into
the United States. The Thompson River rises between
the 52nd and 53° of latitude and flows south into the
Frazer River. Beyond the 55° of north latitude the
interior mountains decrease in height and the surface
slopes gradually towards the Arctic Ocean, and in this
region are the head waters of the Peace and Skcena
Rivers, the latter flowing south-west into Barclay
Straits, and the former, ranging generally north-east,
discharges into Athabasca Lake. Comparatively little
is known of the agricultural possibilities of the northern
portion of the Province, but the seasons aie shoit and
winters severe. In the valley of the Frazer River there
is a rich, deep alluvium, very productive ; but this
river, in its lower porticm, is subject to overflow, and the
use of dykes ife required. Many fine farms are formed,
and the production of hay and dairy products are the
usual crops. All choice Government land has been
long secured on the Frazer, and in the valleys of its
tributaries.
The city of New Westminster, situated on the right
bank of the Frazer River, 16 miles from its mouth,
commanding a fine view of the river and mountains,
has increased in population from 2000 in 1880, to
GOOO in 1889. It is surrounded by the finest and
most flourishing agricultural district in the Province,
and choice farms, not easy to purchase, wnll be valued
at 100 dollars per acre and more, according to its
situation. The city is attractive in appearance, but the
water is not very good ; this, however, can be remedied
42 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
in tlio future. It is reported that the Northern Pacific
Railway Company, having obtained a controlling interest
in the New Wcistniinster, Bellinohani Bay and Seattle
llailvvay, will make this the terminus of that road.
Several other raih-oads are projected, and efforts are
being made to keep well in the wake of Vancouver.
Fi'azer River is navigable for sea-going vessels up to the
city, and light-draught steamers run from New West-
minster to Yale, 100 miles up the river. Steamers run
regularly between New Westminster and Victoria five
days a week ; to points up the river, six days a week ;
to Nanaimo (Vancouver Island) twice a week ; to Lulu
Island and Sea Island, agricultural settlements, almost
daily. In the city are situated the Dominion Land
Office, the residences of the Anglican and Roman Catholic
Bishops, and the Judge and Registrar of the Supreme
Court. The climate is very temperate, the coldest
weather last winter being only 24° Fahr. The munici-
pality of Delta fronts on the Frazer River and Gulf of
Georgia. It has a population of 3,000 ; Ladner's Land-
ing is the chief place, and the chief salmon packing
point on the Frazer. There is an area of 50,000 acres of
very rich soil (alluvium). Improved or unimproved
land ranges from 30 dollars to 100 dollars per acre. The
land is free from timber, but re([ui!es d3ds:ing. Large crops
are grown in the Frazer Valley, viz, : Hay averages 3 tons;
oats, often 90 bushels ; wheat (rej^orted), 75 bushels,
and roots from 400 to 800 bushels per acre. Oats weigh-
ing 55 lbs. to the bushel have been exhibited. This
class of land, although re(|uiring much expenditure in
the way of dyking, etc., is a good investment, as it is
practically inexhaustible and crops have never failetl.
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 43
Wheat in the lower Frazer Valley is, however, ratlier
soft, and does not make a f^ood flour ; it is not a wJieat
country. Lanfjley, population 2,500, is situated on tlie
soutli side of Frazer River, and contains a considerable
quantity of excellent land. Fort Lant^ley, the steam-
boat landing, is an old Hudson's Bay post.
Dairy farming and stock raising is principally carried
on. Farms partially improved can be purchased at 25
to 50 dollars per acre. There are two churclies, three
schools, five stores, three post-offices, three hotels, one
saw and a grist mill. The municipality of Surrey —
population, 2,000 — extends from the Frazer River on the
north to the forty-ninth parallel on the south, and from
the coast on Semiahmoo and Mud Bays on the west to
tlie Corporation of Langley on the east, and contains one
hundred and twenty-seven square miles of territory.
There are also the Settlements of Brownsville and North
Surrey, on the Frazer, in this district. In the Serpen-
tine, Clover Valley, Surrey Centre, Alder Bottom, and
Kensington Prairie Settlements, the soil is of good
quality, and well adapted for growing cereals, peas,
roots, vegetables, grass, and small fruits. The Settle-
ments of Mud Bay, Elgin, and North BlufT, on the west,
have a rich alluvial soil, producing enormous crops, 100
bushels of oats to the acre being often produced. A
Company is formed to reclaim 10,000 acres of tide-flat
land in this district, which will be sold at a high price.
Most of the land was subject to overflow by high tides,
but is nearly all dyked now. On the south side are
situated St. Leonards and Hall's Prairie Settlements — the
former being on the coast of Semiahmoo Bay, and ad-
joining the city of Blain, in Washington State. Hall's
44 THE BIUTJSII COLONIST.
IVairie is <a fine section of the district, good crops being
raised, and dairying being carried on extensively. Land
or farms can be purcliased.
Stages run regularly, twice each week, between New
Westminster and What Cove, via Brownsville, Elgin,
St. Leonards, and Blain. Owing to heavy freshets, the
Frazer River has been making; violent efforts to force its
way into the Sumas Lake, from whence it would find its
way into Washington State, to the great injury of the
Province.
One might suppose that Mr. Goldwin Smith had been
using his influence in this quarter of the Dominion.
Strenuous efforts will be made to prevent this form of
annexation.
Maple Ridge — population, 2,000 — contains an area of
51,200 acres, and extends along the north bank of the
Frazer, a distance of about 18 miles. The Cana-
dian Pacific passes along its entire front, and it has a
navi<T;able water front of 15 miles, and the distances
to Vancouver and New Westminster are short. This
district is entered by the C.P.R. at Stave River, and in a
few minutes Whonnock station is reached. There is
some cfood accricultural land here.
Port Hanoy, six miles beyond, has a heavy claj^ soil,
suitable for brick-making, and there are three yards
established. This is the lieadquarters of the Frazer
River Freezing Company, for the shipment of fresh sal-
mon. There is considerable land in the district suitable
for agricultural purposes to be purchased at lower prices.
Four miles from this is Port Hammond. There is rich
loam soil here, adapted for market gardening, and 000
bushels of potatoes to the acre are recorded. Hammond is
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 45
a ])()iiit of call for river steamers, and a station on tlic
C.RR. At tliis end of the Maple Ridge district are the I'itt
Meadows, one of the largest prairies in the Province, at
present subject to overtiow of the Frazer. A joint-stock
conjpany have undertaken to reclaim this extensive
tract, and have agreed with the Dominion Government
to complete the reclamation in 1893. The soil is of sur-
passing fertility, being deep alluvium, and will be very
valuable. There is an abundant su})pl3' of good watei',
and fe\'er and ague are unknown.
On the south bank of the Frazer lliver, fifty miles
above New AV^estminster, is the valley of Chilliwack,
tweh'e or lifteen miles wide, surrounded by mountains.
The Chilliwack River Hows out of the lake of that
name, and runs west, and south into the Frazer. Cereals
grow well, vegetaljles, melons, tomatoes, and a variety of
fruits, the climate bcinn; warmer in summer. Coal of a
superior quality has been found. Limestone is plentiful,
and clay suitable for brick-making. Centreville is pleas-
antly situated in the centre of the valley, and there are
some line farms in this district, and there is mucli rich
soil. This is an old settlement, and land nmst be bought
of private owners. A charter has been gi-anted for a
railway, which will run down the centre of the valley
from Popcum to New Westminster. At Centreville are
three churches — English, Methodist, and Presbyterian.
Mail and steamboat communication, daily, with West-
minster, Vancouver, and V^ictoria, Seven miles from
Centreville, at Sumas, the farms are larger, and more
suited for dairy purposes and stock raising. The climate
is healthy and bracing. There is fine scenery, trout
fishing and shooting, and many other attractions. In
a6 the BRITISH COLONIST.
the Spallunicheon, Salmon, Okiina<,oui, Kooteiiey, and
Columbia regions, there arc tlionsunds of acres of land
wliich can be cultivated, altliou^^di the choicest and easi-
est to be brought under cultivation have already been
taken up. The Kootency region has been untenable
owing to the innnense atnnuil inundations caused by the
overtlowing of the Kooteney Lake. The " Reclamation
Company " is making some progress in the work, a canal
having been constructed, and preparations made to lower
the level of the lake by clearing away obstructions at
its outle^>. When this work is successfully completed,
the land will be sold, and it will be of great fertilit3^
The suri'ounding country is exceedingly rough, and
heavy falls of snow occur in the winter. Marvellous
mining developments are being made in this country, and
numerous lines of railways pi'ojccted. It may be said
that the mineral resources of the Province ire, in all
probability, greater than has ever been estimated, and
althougli the agricultui-al lands are very limited in com-
parison with its area, every acre available is likely to
give a rich return for intelligent cultivation, as the de-
mands for their 2:)roducts increase.
On the Cariboo Road there is a plain 150 miles long,
and GO or 80 wide, and between the Thompson and
Frazer Rivers there is reported to be an innnense tract
of grazing and some arable land. The bunch grass of
this region is excellent for cattle, and when the difiiculty
of providing feed for winter can be overcome, no doubt
there is a fine stock region in the north.
At a fair at Chilliwack 75 varieties of fruit were ex-
hibited, and of vegetables a f-(iuash, weighing 100 lbs.,
and a pumpkin, weighing 157 lbs.
UK ins H COLUMBIA. 47
Tuniing to the I'uaco Kivor district, ])r Dawson, the
geolo<^^ist, estinuitcs tluit tlioro is tlieru an area of 2'?, 500
s(juarc miles of good arable land — of which (),00() lie
within the Province — at an averanfe elevation of about
2,000 feet. The growing season is, however, short in
this latitude ; and beyond the experiments made with
cereals at "Dunvargen," already noted, nothing positive
can be stated. Another transcontinental line of rail-
way, by the route of the "Yellow Head Pass " in the
Rocky Mountains, having Port Sim])son as its objective
point, is projected; and, no doubt, the Peace River dis-
trict will be traversed, or tapped, and in this way
colonised. The Nicola River, flowing out of Nicola
Lake, flows west and north into the Thompson River.
The Nicola Valley is an old settlement in a bunch
grass country, which is now well occupied with stock ;
and the whole valley is settled. The climate here is
quite cold in the winter, the thermometer falling below
zero ; and it is much warmer in the summer, but dry
and bracing at all times, and a very healthy climate.
In the valleys of the Upper Frazer, and the Thompson
Rivers, and the Shuswap River, and on the shores of
the lake, all good places have long been secured by old
miners. A good deal of drinking goes on, and it is a sad
failino: in most of the old settlements. At the Forks of
Thompson River, on the Canadian Pacific Railway, 250
miles from the coast, the town of Kandoops is situated.
It is one of the oldest towns in the Province ; the old
North West Company having established a post there,
in 1815. The population is about 1000, with an Indian
Reserve of 250, camped between the forks. The South
Thompson River and the Shuswap Lake are navigable
4S THE liRlTlSU COLONIST.
for stt'iiniors, one liuiidrcd uiid tilty miles above Ivaiii-
loops, to Spallcoursheen. At Siccamooso, suvcnty-iivc
miles al)ove Kamloops, on Shuswa[) Lake, the railway
diverges from the river and lakes, and traflic to the
upper country depends on steamers. Steamers also run
down the river below the town, through Kandoops
Lake, which is an enlargement of the Thompson, twenty
miles long. Sta<^'e lines lead to districts in the interior
from this point, Nicola Valley is about thirty miles south-
west, Crand Prairie thirty-three mih.'S south-east ; and
Okanagan and Osoyoos districts, extending southward
about two hiuidrcd miles to the international boundary.
Similkameen Valley is attractive, having a good climate
and some fertile soil all occupied. Grand Prairie is a
bunch grass region, and with Similkameen and Nicola,
constitutes an important stock region, from which
numbers of cattle are shipped, and nuich money has
been made by stockmen ; but it is doubtful if there is
sufficient range for more stock than is already there.
In the neighbourhood of Kamloops are mineral bodies of
iron, mica, copper, and silver. A good quantity of red
granite and marble, and considerable veins of coal exist.
The climate is dry, and not severe in winter ; sleighing
only lasting about ten days usually, and the mercury
occasionally falling below zero. The most direct route
to the Cariboo mining district is up the North Fork of
the Thompson River, and there is some talk of a railway
■/ranch to the mines. Ashcroft, on the south bank of the
Thompson River, near its junction with the Bonaparte,
is a station on the Pacific division of tlie Canadian P.R.,
and the shipping point for the Cariboo, Clinton, and
Lilloet districts in the north. Clinton is 32 miles,
BRITISH COLUMB.IA, 49
Lilloet 52 miles, and r)iii'k('i'vilK', tlio chief town in tho
Cariboo district, 2.S5 miles from Asheroft. Stacfcs
leave once a week for Barkerville, and thn^e times for
Clinton, with connections for Lilloet. There are some
tracks of grazing and ai^ricultural lands in the neigh-
bourhood of Asheroft, all of any value secured. It is a
great trading point, for the mines and materials and
supplies are taken from here. Vancouver, the terminus
of the C.P.K., a little north of the mouth of the Frazer
River, is bounded on the north by the waters of P>ui'rai'd
Inlet, and west by English Bay. in April, JSNG, the
population was only about six hundred, and now tliero
are seven thousand. The site of the ])resent city was, at
the former time, covered with forest and stumps of trees,
which have l)een removed at the cost of 800 dols. per
acre, and now there are twenty miles of graded stretits,
and nineteen miles of sidewalks. In June, ISSO, the
young city was destroyed by a fire, but was rapidly
rebuilt ; and now it is a thriving, well-built city, with
electric and gas light, and substantial business houses,
and a ])ul)lic ))ark. Its development has been wonder-
ful. There are manufactories of furniture, carriage,
and building materials, six breweries, and saw and
planing mills, with an annual product of a value of over
2,000,000 dols. The Vancouver Water Works Co., with
a capital of 250,000 dols., supplies the city with water,
conveyed in pi]ies under the inlet from a point six
miles from the city ; the system including thirty miles
of iron main pipes. The city slo])es back gradually
from Burrard Inlet and English Bo.y, the highest eleva-
tion being 200 feet, affording sufficient grade for good
drainage. There are some good hotels, and tastefully
D
5^ THE BRITISH COLONIST.
arranged private residences, and from tlie most elevated
portion of the park, consistinf^ of some good acres, a
grand view of the mountains of the coast is obtained, on
the nortli side of the inlet, their crests having an
altitude of over GOOO feet, and being covered with snow
most of the year. The spurs of the Cascades aj)proach
very close to the sea, and many of tlie numerous islands
in the gulf are in view, and the scenery all along the
shore is grand.
The timber, consisting principally of the Douglas fir,
and cedar, is, in many places, of vast size and of fine
quality. Trees of 20 feet in circumference, and running
up straight as an arrow for hundreds of feet are common.
Lumbering is of immense importance and value to the
Province ; the total number of saw-mills being 26, and
producing from 3000 to 110,000 feet per mill, daily.
Smelting works are to be establisheci at Vancouver, and
there is every prospect of its becoming a large and rich
city ; and favoured as it is by climate, with adequate
sanitary precautions, it must be a healthy and pleasant
place of residence.
The agricultural ]n'oducts of the Province are not
nearly sufficient for the population, and quantities of
provisions of this kind are brought from San Francisco
and Portland, and, notwitlistanding tlie import duties
levied on these supplies, so abundant and cheap are these
products in the States, that they have been sold at a price
which has prevented the agriculturists of the Province
from successfully competing with them, chiefly owing to
the greater expense attending their cultivation and lack
of energy on the part of tlie farmers. As the population
is rapidly increasing, and manufacturing, mining, and
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 5 1
lumbering will be the chief employirients of the majority
of the consumers, it seems reasonable to believe that,
with much cheaper farming implements, and the ad-
vantages of good markets, intelligent agriculturists will
succeed in obtaining a good return for their capital and
labour on the rich soil in tlie places enumerated. A
very small area of this rich soil can be made to afford a
comfortable living, at least, and notwithstanding the
considerable expenditure required to secure it in favour-
able places, it will pay much better to farm a small area
of it than to invest in a much larger one of inferior
quality in places remote from the great markets. Much
of the beef and mutton consumed in the Province is
brought in from the States, subject to an import duty ;
and cured meats, such as ham and bacon, also lard, are
extensively imported, and all these are retailed at a
nmch higher price than they are sold for in the States.
Tiie diti'erences of prices between the best beef in the
Province and at Portland, Oregon, is about 8 cents per
lb. (retail.) The prices of nearly all provisions,
machinery, and the necessaries of life generally are con-
siderably more than in the States, and so far the pro-
tective tariff duties levied on all necessaries imported
from the States have not l)y any means benefited pro-
ducers, and have been hard on the consumer.
The rich valley, delta, and tide-flat lands will produce
an enormous amount of grass, roots, and other feed, and
the breeding and feeding of swine should be very profit-
able, and, according to the retail prices of beef, 18 to 20
cents per lb. — that also should be profitable, and will l)e
when the "combinations of butchers" can be counteracted.
There is pi-olmbly no part of the Continent in wdiich the
52 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
united action of the producers for self -protection is more
necessary than in this Province. It is a land of syndi-
cates and monopolies of one kind and another. The
harbour of Burrard Inlet is one of the finest in the world.
Opposite the front of Vancouver the inlet is over two
miles wide, with a depth of six to twenty fathoms. An
arm of salt water extends inland for twenty miles from
Vancouver, and affords access to a considerable area of
rich country.
Leaving Vancouver by steamer in a voyage of about
five hours, Victoria, the capital of the Province, on
Vancouver Island, is reached. The population is about
15,000, and it has the largest ironworks on the Pacific
Coast (except San Francisco) and several sirialler iron
foundaries and machine shops. It is the oldest city in
the Province, and is charmingly situated on the soutli-
eastern part of the island, facing the Olympian range of
mountains, across the Straits in the State of Washington.
Nothing can exceed the beauty of tljc surrounding
scenery and all along the coast, and the excellence of the
roads (in Government control) renders driving and riding
])articularly pleasant. On the eastern side of the city
the park extends to the sea-side, affording an extensive
view of the Straits and Sound. There are a number of
pretty private residences and some fine public buildings,
and improvements arc being made in all directions.
There are a number of hotels, none of th3m of an impos-
ing appearnnce, liowever; but the Di'iad Hotel is noted
as having the best cuisine on the Pacific Coast.
The markets are supplied with the best of provisions.
The butchers' sho])s — decorated, as in England, at Clu'ist-
mas time — at all times exhibit meat of superior quality ;
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 5j
and thu (juality and tlavuur of the bcuf and mutton sur-
passes anything- found in the States. Boating and yaclit-
incf alonsf the coast and waters of the harbour is attended
with ^c^reat pleasure, and within comparatively short
distances shooting and fishing can he enjoyed, and
there are many charming places for pic-nics. Admirable
order is maintained in the city. There is an absence of
the rushing, jostling life of an American city. It is to
be noticed in the way business men take their food.
They deliberately masticate, and do not bolt it as if they
were only allowed ten minutes for refreshments. Tak-
ing everything into consideration, including the magni-
ficent climate, it will be difficult to find in the world a
more delightfid ])lace as a permanent residence. It is,
however, rather an expersive place to live in, although
the prices of the necessaries of life have been somewhat
reduced. Small families may live in a quiet way on
from £300 to £400 (sterling) per annum. That
is in tlie city suburbs. To enter into any kind of re-
spectable business, a capital of from 10,000 to 20,000
dollars would be required.
The rent of houses ranges from 25 dollars per montli
for a cottage to 50 and Qi\i dollars for a moderate-sized
house, generally built of lumber. The cost of building a
cottajxe will be abouu 1500 dollars, and from 2 to 5000
dollars for a comfortable house. Domestic servants (for
which the demand is always in excess of the supply)
get from 15 to 25 dollars per month. One bank allows
a rate of four per cent, on deposits for six months and
over, and the usual rates of interest on mortgages are
from six to eight per cent.
The v;ages mechanics receive are as follows, but the
54 THE BRITISH COLOU/ST,
supj.'ly usually cxcoeds the demand, and tlie employment
is not constant :
Stonecutters, stonemasons and brick- per day.
layers, ... ... .. 4 dols. to 5 dels.
Labourers, ... ... ... Idol. 75 c. to 2 dols.
rinsterers, ... ... ... 4 dols. to 4 dols. 50 c.
Carpenters and j()iner.s, ... ... 2 dols. 50 c. to o dols. 50 c.
Cabinetmakers, ... ... ... o dols.
Machinists, moulders, blacksmiths, ... 4 dols. to 4 dols. 50 c.
Indian farm labour, ... ... Idol.
These are the nominal rates which, however, are often
cut down by contractors, accordini^ to the supply and
competition.
Rowing Loats cost from GO to 80 dols., when built to
order, and sloops from 200 to 500 dols. There is a
Cornish ship - carpenter from a Falmouth yard at
Victoria. Good aijricultural holdino-s have chanofed
hands at high tigures of late years. Everyone desires a
position near the sea-side, and affording good views, and
an easy outlet by water. There has, therefore, been a
great demand for these choice positions, for which many
Englishmen have paid fancy prices. Good hay land is
very valuable, the y)rice for hay being from 16 to 20 dols,
per ton, baled, which will give a net profit of 7 dols. to
11 dols. per ton. This is the most profitable crop for
the farmer who owns tide-Hat or delta land, which will
yield crops of hay without exhaustion of the soil. The
area of such land is, however, very limited and difficult
to obtain. It is not an agricultur.d country, and it is a
difficult thing for a man with little capital to establish a
farm that will support him by its products. It is
possible, by going into the interior of the island, to find
desirable places in the valleys, and on the margins of
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
55
some of the lakes, where liy leading a secluded and
rough life for a few years his labour may be rewarded
as tlic country becomes more settled. Many of the old
pioneers have gone through all this, under much moi'c
unfavourable circumstances than the settler now will
encounter. It will be a hard, rough life for the man of
small capital, but there are compensations, especially in
regard to the climote. No miasmatic fevers to encounter,
and the hope of something turning up to his advantage.
It is not, however, advisable for one to depend too much
on something "turning up." Some young men who
have tried it, at Victoria, have come out with empty
pockets. It is no place for an idler, without plenty of
cash, and tlie immigrant must have a settled purpose,
and " turn something up " for himself.
The following temperature and rainfall for 1889, at
Victoria, B.C. lat., 48' 45' 20" N. ; long., 123' 22' 24", is
reliable —
Temperature.
Rain.
No of Days
Snowfall
No. of
each
Days
Mean.
Max.
52
Mill.
24 '
Inches.
Eain. \
1 Month.
Snow lell.
Jan
38-84
2-84
14
Feb
41 00 57
25
1-12
i
. . .
INIarch . .
48-20 1 (54
30
1-50
14
...
April
50-52 06
32
1-83
8
May
55 00 ' 70
37
l-Ol
()
...
June
58-67
80
37
i i
5
...
July
60-70 i 85
40
* ■ •
• * •
...
August..
58-67 ! 77
41
104
(>
...
Sept
64-00 73
34
2-33
8
i
Oct
51-82
67
36
2-08
l(i
Nov
45-02
58
30
1-76
7 j
Dec
37-34
51
27 ,
2-28
13 t
! Sleet
melted as
fast as it
fell.
•>
o
SO THE liRITJStl COLONIST.
lliiiiifiill, 1882 27-85
„ 1883 27-05
1884 23-40
1885 28-14
1880 27-50
1887 38-05
1888 25-77
>>
Tliero is not a day in July or August uncomfortably
warm, and the iniluence of the climate is just sufficiently
bracing to prevent any sense of relaxation, without
beino: over-stiniulatinof. During: winter the wind on the
coast is a little sharp at times, requiring an overcoat.
The rain falls principally at night, although there are
many days on which, with slight intermissions, it rains
all day and night too, but a steady, soft rain without
wind. The woods are damp all the winter, and there is
much humidit}', causing mould to form and moss to grow
on the roofs of old buildings ; yet catarrhal affections are
not common, as might be expected, and children are
wonderfully healthy in the winter. Such diseases as
occur are to be attributed, either to reckless exposure,
the neglect of hygienic rules, and sanitary precautions
in respect to drainage. Amongst the poorer class of
settlers in rural districts, whose children and other
members of families arc constantly out in the rain and
the wet woods, the immunity from evil etiects enjoyed
is remarkable. There are some remarkable variations
in the amount of rainfc.U on this coast. It is shown to
be very small, comparatively, at Victoria. At Cape
Flattery, jn the American side of the Strait, it is exces-
sive, being 100 inches or more, while at Port Townsend,
opposite Victoria, it is only about 20 inches. Vancouver
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 57
Island is about 300 miles in lenc^tli north -west and
south-east, and has an area of about 12,000 square miles.
The interior of the island is very mountainous, some of
the peaks reaching an elevation of 9,000 to 10,000 feet.
In the Victoria district (including the city, Cadboro Bay,
Gordon Head, Mount Tohnie and Cedar Hill) there is an
area of twenty-seven square miles. Many nicely situated
farms are in this district, but the soil is, as a rule, of no
depth. North of Cadboro Bay, to the end of the Saanich
Peninsula, the country is gently undulating table-land,
sloping on the west to the Saanich arm of the sea which ex-
tends southerly to near Esquimalt Harbour. This portion
of the peninsula is rough and heavily timbered. North
of Saanich, and passing a narrow passage between that
and Salt Spring, or Admiral's Island, Cowichan Bay is
reached. The valley of the Cowichan Kiver, which has
its source in Cowichan Lake, about 2G miles from its
mouth, is, as regards its low^er portion, the finest agri-
cultural region, and one of the oldest settlements on the
island. In this district, and including that of Maple
Bay, will be found the best society out of Victoria, and
land is valuable. Much of the best land is in possession
of the Indians. The bench land out of the valley is
heavily timbered, gravelly and thin. There are, here
and there, sniall acres of alder-bottom land easily cleared
and fertile, all of which have long been in possession of
settlers. The island railway passes through this dis-
trict. Farther north, the Chemanius River Valley has
some rich alluvial soil, and valuable farms. The climate
in both these settlements is warmer and more favourable
for agricultural products and fruit, than in the Victoria
or Saanich districts, and choice situations command a
$S rilE BRITISH COLONIST.
hi oh price. At Chemanius there is some delta, and tide-
fiat laud of o-reat fertility. Along Chemaiiius Bay there
is some fertile land in places, but the whole country is
heavily timbered and very rough, back from the sea-
coast. All the best land for cultivation has long been
secured, and much clearing and other improvements have
been made since the construction of the railway to
Xanaimo.
Nanaimo — the second largest city on the island, 70
miles from Victoria — has a population of 4;,()00, and
about 8,000 in the district. It has valuable coal mines
of the best quality on the whole Pacific Coast. The
mountains on the island approach very close to the sea-
board here, and there is much more rain, and late frosts
occur. Agricultural land is very limited, and of poor
({uality in this district. North of Xanaimo the moun-
tains recede from the shore, and south of Qualicum, and
extending north along Baynes Sound to Comox, is a
strip of country containing some good soil, and much of
it level, but covered with timber. All the best of this
land, commanding the sea-front, has been owned for years
by specidators. At Comox, some 60 miles north of
Xanaimo, there are valuable and extensive coal deposits.
It is a heavily-timbered country, with some magnificent
and immense trees of the Douolas fir and cedar. There
are some good farms in the district, which are held at a
high price. The cost of clearing land, covered with the
heavy timber, may vary from 100 to 300 dollars per
acre, according to the time employed. The land selected
for cultivation has been the alder-bottom and vine-
maple lands, on which the removal of the small ti'ees
and brush is comparatively inexpensive. In the Comox
liRiriSH COLUMBIA. 59
Valley there is some rich laiul, and also much other land
which can bo utilised when it will pay to clear it by the
sale of the timber. All the best timber along the coast,
and on rivers suitable for a fling, has long been secured
by speculators and saw-mill companies. For years pro-
perty holders at Comox have been in a state of excite-
ment as to the value of their land, and have not known
what to ask, sometimes raising the price from 500 to
2,000 dollars in 24 hours, on a small faim. There is no
Government land left in this district worth taking f(n'
any immediate utility. U'lie proximity of some high
mountains causes late frosts at times, liable to damaije
fruit and tender vegetables, but the fog which arises in
the early morning usually dissolves the frost before the
suji comes to cause danuiiie.
The scenery here is very beautiful, and fronting on
Comox harbour are some si)lendid sites for residences.
There is more rain here than at Victoria, the rainfall in-
creasing with the latitude and proximity of the moun-
tains. North of Ct)mox, aloni"' the coast oast of the
Crown Mountains, many of which arc over G,Ol)0 feet in
altitude, there arc, in places, small areas of good land.
Wherever alder-bottom or vine-maple, and swampy
larid, which can be drained, occurs in suflicient quantity,
a small farm may be established successfully, and there
is considerable feed for cattle all through the island,
consisting of vine-maple shoots, swamp, and other grasses
and shrubs of various kinds; and with a little provision
for winter, for a week or two of snow and sharp weather
may be expected, they will do very well. At Duncan
and Menzies Bays there are Government reservations
for some purposes, and other lands are held by speculators.
6o THE BRITIL II COLONIST.
Continuing north, the Sahnon Uiver, whicli empties
into Jolmson's Straits, and Campbell River, flowing into
the Seymour Narrows opposite Cape Mudgo, liave in
their valleys a considerable (quantity of fine land, some
of which is open for entry under the homestead laws.
North of this to Fort Rupert and Hudson's Bay trading-
post and Indian Reserve, the country is rough, the
timber smaller, and the valleys too small for agricultural
purposes, but there are many excellent situations for
families of fishermen, who would only ro([uire small
pieces of land for gardens. Until within the last few
years, comparatively little was known of the interior of
the island. It is not easily accessible, the passes in the
mountains being blocked with snow till late in spring,
and the forests so impenetrable that it is only on foot,
and with Indians as bearers of pi'ovisions, etc., that an
exploring expedition can be made. Lately, however,
Government surveyors have discovered many valleys in
the northern interior containino; a considerable amount
of good land more or less heavily timbered, and which,
on the northern portion of the island, are much wider
than those to the south. It is very probable that rich
mineral deposits may be found in the interior, when
cai'efully prospected. From the Comox Lake, which
gives rise to the Comox River, and can be reached in
about 10 miles from the settlement, there is a chain of
lakes extending in a southwesterly direction across the
island, and with a few portages a canoe voyage could be
made into the Albert Canal, which communicates with
Barclay Sound, on the west coast. The island railway
will, eventually, be extended along the east coast from
Nanaimo, through Comox, towards the north end of the
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 6l
island, and connccti(jii made with tho new transcon-
tinental line, wiiich, passin^^ the Rocky Mountains by
the Yellovvhead Pass, will reach Port Simpson, in tlie
Straits ot' Georgia, by way of Bute Inlet. When this
has been accomplished, Mays of tapping the interior of
the island will be found. Although the area of lands
suitable for agricultural purposes, and which at present
can be utilised, is very limited, the probability is that
much more than is yet know^n of it may be shown when
proper surveys of the interior are made. The tine clim-
ate and the immense rcsouices of the lisheries and
mineral deposits wdll no doul)t support a considerable
population in the future. The west coast of the island
is very rough and rugged, but there are a number of
small bays and inlets of the sea, and in places areas of
good land. There is much more rain on this side, and a
heavy surf lashes the coast, especially in w^inter, when
the ocean is anything but " pacific."
The south-west gales are severe all along the Pacific
Coast, and there is nearly always, summer and winter,
a rough sea, comparatively. The country around
Barclay Sound, which is a fine harbour with deep
water, is very rough and densely and impenetrably
timbered in many places. From the head of the Albert
Canal, where there is an old settlement, and in which a
new Colony has been lately established, it is only about
sixty miles to Nanaimo, and at some time a railway may
be constructed. During the winter all conunuin'cation,
overland, is cut off by deep snow on the mountain
passes, but a steamer runs between the Sound and
Victoria. North of the Sound is a group of islands,
Vargas, Flores, and Meares, some of them owned and
6 J THE nRiTisH coroNrsT.
used as cattle ranges by stock lucii in Victoria. North
ot' this tlie country is principally occu[)ie(l by Indians,
who in fornior days were noted for their outrages on
sliipwrecked nuirineis, and many an unfortunate crew
pc^rished, and everything cast ashore was taken by tlie
Indians. They are now rewarded for any assifstanco
they render to shipwrecked mariners, and their terror
of the British gunboats keeps them in subjection. Th^
Cape Mudge Indians on tiie east coast were at one time
niri,''i*essive, and a dauLcerous sot of wretches. At one
time they even undertook a contest with a British gun-
boat sent to punish them, and entrenched themselves and
o))ened fire, but a few shells sent amongst them acted as
a wholesome aperient, and since then they have a great
respect for blue jackets. They are im]nident and in-
clined to be aggressive to isolated pursons, but are not
dangerous to settlements. Many of the old miners,
years ago, settled on some of tlie islands in the Straits,
and some j)arts of Vancouver Island, and took Indian
s([uaws as wives. This sort of miscegenation has been
indulged in extensively on the island by the old settlers.
The Indians are, as a rule, a Sfjualid, ugly set of people,
the s(piaws particularly. They live principally on tish,
especially salmon ; which at times they will eat when in
a condition indescribable. They are good workers,
working often for the white settlers, and expert fisher-
men, and show wonderful dexterity in the management
of their canoes. These canoes are made out of a solid
huge cedar log, cut out and burnt out, and skilfully
modelled. Forward they are fitted with a thwart, in
which can be stepped a mast, carrying a large sail. The
Indians squat on grass mats in the bottom of the canoe,
DRlTlSll COf.UMIWA.
and stoor with a puddle, and ffo at a great rate when
runnino" free. It is astonisliinij: tlio roiudi s»'a.s these
canoes drive through in safety; and, in the larger canoes,
whole lam' lies go great distances, carrying their pro-
visions and cooking utensils, and cani})ing on the beach
at niglit, and conveying deer skins and iish to the
markets. Occasionally a canoe has been s))lit by a heavy
sea and the crew lost, but they are sometimes strength-
ened by ribs. A canoe can be purchased for :i5 to 80
dollars, but the very large ones are more expensive.
They are very expert in the use of the paddle, driving
their canoes up the rivers by the use of that and a long
pole. Tiie squaws are e([ually ex[)ert, and do much of the
work of paddling. All these Indians speak a language
known as Chinook, common to the tribes of* the Paeilic
Coast, and which is not dillieult to learn, and extremely
simple when compared with the Welsh language.
Vocabularies can be obtained at Victoria, which, in a
short time, will enable one to converse with the Indians.
An old settler stated that the bestwav tojjet on with an
Indian, and to win his respect, is to be scrupulously
exact in keeping your agreements, never pay more, or
less than you pi-omise, and if you promise him a thrash-
ing, don't disappoint him. By reference to a map it
will be seen that the Strait of Georgia is full of
islands. Many of these are inhabited and very fertile,
and enjoy peculiar climatic advantages : for instance,
the islands of Hornby and Denman, which are only
separated from Vancouver Island by a narrow channel,
and lie south of Comox, about 14 miles, enjoy milder
climates than that of Comox and the land to the south
along the shore. Vegetation is nearly two weeks earlier in
64 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
the sprini]^, and frosts do not occur. Tlicrc is some very
rich soil on portions of these islands, which are, how-
over, small, and have long been occu[)ied. The ^lew
from Hornby Island is magnificent, taking in the rugged
peaks of the Cascade or Coast Mountains to the east, ou
the main land ; the mountains of Vancouver Island on
tlie west, and south, numerous islands in the Strait,
and, at a distance of 100 miles, the snowy peak of Mount
Baker, altitude, 14,000 feet. On some days as many as
fifteen or twenty whales have been seen blowing, off this
island, and innumerable salmon can be seen playing in
the tide- way. Cereals and vetje tables of all kinds are
productive, also small fruits. Sheep do well, and the
settlers all have small sailing ciaft, which takes the
place of the farm waggon, to ( inv(;y their protlucts to
market. Deer frequent thes<' small i.slands when not too
far off the land, swinnning across the channels, and
feasting on the settlers' crops at night, no fence being
liiixh enouo'li to exclude them. On one occasion the author
landed from a canoe on Hornby Island, and complaints
being made by a settler of the ' lestruction of his potatoes
by deer, he was determined to watch for them that night.
Judging from the tracts tlie best part of the field to
take up a position in, at sundown I took a seat under the
shelter of a large log. It was a beautifully calm moon-
lit night, and for upwards of an hour not a sound, save
the splashing of the salmon along shore, broke the still-
ness of the night. Fatigued with a long canoe voyage, I
had almost fallen asleep, when a rustling in the brush
put me on the qai-vive. Presently a dark object bounded
into the field, about six.t}'- yards from my position, and in
a few seconds another followed.
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 65
I'hc liglit of the moon, slightly occhided l>y a small
cloud, now shone bright and clear, and revealed a iine
buck, standing broadside towards me, and a doe in the
rear. A better chance never was offered, and, aiming
quickly for tlie point of the shouldcr.I fired an S.S.G. cart-
ridnfo from the rio-ht barrel. When the smoke cleared
away I saw, dimly, a deer standing, apparently on the
same spot ; I then fired the left bari'el. While hastily
reloading I saw a deer bounding towards my position,
and just as I had finished loading, it turned to the fence,
evidently badly wounded, and in the act of leaping re-
ceived another shot, and fell dead over the fence. This
was a doe, and I at tirst thought 1 had missed the buck,
but, on going to the spot on which they had stood, found
him dead. There are very few dogs amongst the settlers,
and deer not being hunted much with hounds are bold,
and will even come into the gardens in front of the houses
at nifjht, secretins]: themselves in the thickets on the is-
land during the day. In Johnstone Strait, north of the
Seymour Narrows, are a number of islands unoccupied.
Little is known of their soil, but it is probable that some
of them would make desirable settlements for a few
families. They are, however, at present beyond the pale
of civilisation, and frequented by Indians, but it will not
be long before white men will take up claims. Life on
these islands is very pleasant for those who like salt-
water, and with a little company and a good sailing craft
to visit settlements and markets occasionally, the life is
attractive for one fond of sport and satisfied with a rough,
novel sort of life. To go GO or 100 miles to a
market is not thought much of by these islanders. "JMiere
is seldom much rough water for most of the year, except
E
66 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
in tliu tidc'-ri|>s, and tlio jouiiicy is most cnjoyaLle in Hne
weather. Wlien the island railway is extended to the
northern part of Vancouver Island, all of the islands in
Johnstone Strait will be more or less valuable. Valdez
Island, a little north-west of Cape Mudge, contains an area
of live or six thousand acres. There is a good harbour
and an admirable fishiiii; station. There is some sfood
hind and, on the south end. some open table land. Claims
have been taken on this island, but probably no settle-
ment established yet. It is infested with wolves, and
panthers are numeroiison many of the islands' : they get
across from the main land by swimming the channels,
following up the deer. The Seymour Nai'rows is a nar-
row passage between Vancouver Island and Cape Mudge,
throusfh which the waters of the Straits are forced with
great violence during the flowing of the tide, causing a
tide-rip with a velocity of nine miles an liour, and, es-
pecially when a strong wind prevails, is exceedingly
danoferous for small ci'aft, and even cfood-sized steamei's
are not safe at times. The slack of the tide is the time
to attempt the navigation for small craft. It is rumoured
that when the new transcontinental line is completed,
connection will be made with Vancouver Island by
bridging the Narrows. In all probability, however, the
transfer will be made by ferry.
Texada Island, :^() miles from Comox, is a very rough,
rocky island, M'ith valuable mineral deposits, chiefly
magnetic iron ore, assaying GS-4 of pure iron. Gold
and silver bearing (piartz lead have been discovered.
Las([ueti Island, close to the former, was stocked with
sheep some years ago by a retired naval otiicer. It is
densely timbered, in places, rocky and rough. All the
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 67
islands south of this have long been occupiuLl by settlers,
tiic larojest being: Admiral's Island, on the south-west end
of wliieh, many years a^o, Mr. A. Pimbury — formerly of
Gloucestershire, England — established a fine flock of
sheep atibrding the best mutton on tlie Pacific Coast.
Mr. Pimbury and his brothers built a substantial
residence, with tastefully-arranged gardens, containing
some English shrubs, on an elevated plateau or bench on
the side of the mountain, affording a splendid view of
the channel. Their gardens produced vegetables of the
finest quality, and a splendid grape vine of the Concord
variety is particularly worthy of not'ce as showing what
can be accomplished in this latitude in the way of fruit.
This vine, planted at the margin of a large, sloping
rock, had spread all over it, and upwards of 500 lbs. of
matured grapes have been picked from this one vine.
The roi^k absorbing the heat of the sun during the day
greatly assisted the maturing of the grapes, of which Mr.
Pimbury made excellent wine. Besides the grapes,
ap[)les, pears, and a variety of small fruits were success-
fully grown ; and wild strawberries of delicious flavour
covered the plateau and orchard. Just below the house
at the foot of the mountain, which at its greatest elevation
reaches 21530 feet, is a beautiful, small harbour, aflbrding
secure anchorage for sailing raft. Before the construc-
tion of the island railway to Nanaimo steamers passed
up the channel in front of the house daily. There are
several other islands west of this used for sheep runs,
but the pasturage has been eaten out and is scanty.
They are admirable places for sheep, as there are no
wolves or dogs to injure them, and the mutton is of
excellent flavour, and connnands a good price at Victoria.
6g THE BRITISH COLONIST.
boiuu of tliG finest islands arc in the Aniei-ican waters,
all of them thickly settled. The best way to see the
various islands and the coast generally, and to enjoy the
scenery, climate, fishing, and shooting, is to victual a
small sloop or a steam launch. There are lots of harl)ours
for small craft along the coast, and nothing could be
more delightful than a summer spent in this way, and
trips can be made into the interior of the island from
various points. The water is deep almost everywhere,
and there is no danger if a knowledge of the tide-rips
and reefs be obtained by the charts, and a look-out kept
for squalls in the narrow channels amongst the islands.
The water is very deep, in some places as much as 40
fathoms close to the rocky shores. The tides are peculiar
and uncertain at times. When it is blowing strong up
the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the ebb is sometimes very
little, and vice-versa. The barometer will not give
warning of such sudden squalls as occur in the spring.
The sky may be perfectly clear, and a mere breath of air
prevaling, when a sudden violent gust of wind will descend
and catch the unwary mariner under full canvas. These
sudden squalls are generally preceded by light puffs of
air coming from every point of the compass To cruise
along the west coast of Vancouver, a large craft will be
recjuired ; not less than ten tons would be the best. A
sailino: and rowino- boat combined is also an excelloit
way of getting along the eastern coast. The people
throughout the Province are law-abiding and orderly,
■ an.vl the law is well administered. In former ^'ears the
Province was much indelited to the vigorous enforce-
ment of the laws l»y Sir Matthew Begbie, who was a
terror to evil-doers ; and the establishment of the
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 69
chain-gang of convicts at Victoria, made to work on the
public roads, is an admiral ilo institution, respectfully
recommended to the notice of our American cousins.
Occasionally an American rowdy has paid a visit to
Victoria, for tlie purpose of " painting the town red," in
western parlance, but a short experience in the chain-
gang has decided them to avoid any repetition of the
dose. They never get over the horror of liaving been
made to woi'k on the roads for those Britishers. The
establishment of these chain-gangs, in sundry American
cities, for the benefit of felonious public officials, would
have a most salutarv influence. Tlie sinht of a fat
alderman workinfj in chains in front of his own house
(l)ought with public money) would be refreshing. Four
miles west of Victoria is the splendid harbour of
Esquinialt, the British Naval Station, which can
bo rendered absolutely impregnable, when fortified
thoroughly. West of this is Sook harbour and inlet,
and here, and along the coast for some distance, are some
lovely sites for building. Back from the shore it is
heavily timbered, and tlie soil is, as a rule, thin and of
poor quality San Juan harboui", only lit for small craft,
is the only one along the coast till Barclay Sound is
reached. There are many farms, and some stock ranches
on a small scale in the Sook district, but wolves, bears,
and panthers destroy sheep.
There is a great variety of sport to bs had on the
island, and around the coast, in the way of shooting and
fishing. There are bears, panthers, and deer, and at the
north end near Fort Rupert, the wapiti. Owing to the
density of the timber and undergrowth, hunting is
attended with much difficulty, and the assistance oj:
70 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
well trained doo-s is necessary. The life of a dog is vcr3'-
])recari()us on the Pacific Coast, for they are subject to a
form of gastritis, called salmon sickness, produced by
eating dead and decomposed salmon, wliieli are found
along streams during the rnnnino; season. Tlie most
marked symptoms are vomiting and convulsions, and if
prompt treatment is not given many of tliem die.
ICmetics, followed and preceded by nuicilaginons
drenches, and es[)ecially olive oil, or even liquid lard,
will save manv cases. The Indians do a i^reat deal of
hunting, and thousands of deer skins arc brought into
A'ictoria by them. The California ci'ested quail is in-
creasing rapidly around the Victoria and Sook districts,
and roughed and willow grouse are numerous in the
woods, around clearings, and in the alder bottoms and
swamps. Wild fowl of many varieties fiequent the in-
lets, lakes, and estuaries. 1'he lakes are full of trout,
and into those communicating with the sea, by rivers,
sea trout run in the summer and autumn. In June,
July, and August, the hai'bours are full of salmon and
sea trout, and can be caught by trolling a spoon or bait.
The Indians use a smelt for trolling, and sometimes a
spoon, and 70 large salmon have been caught in one day
in tliis way. Smelt, hei-rings, halibut, haddock, flounders
and cod abound on the coast, and crabs of excellent
quality, also cray-tish, are caught. In the Frazer River
very large sturgeon are caught, and wild fowl are
abundant there. North on the Skeena River is one of the
irreat salmon fisheries of the Province. The take of
salmon in the Frazer River alone is sometimes 8,000,000
lbs., exclusive of what the Indians procure. There are
21 factories for making canned salmon, 12 of them being
BRITISH COLUMBIA. 71
on the Fiuzor, and tlio annual production is from
150,000 to 200,000 cases, each contaiuing 4S Ib^., in tius ;
and in addition to tliis about 5000 barrels of salt salmon
are put up. The exports of fish from Victoria in 1888
amounted to 1,150,504 dols. Tiio total value, including
that consumed by Indians and the population, is
estimated at 4,834',8-18 dols. Tlie whale, seal, and sea-otter
fisheries are also very valual)le. A curious fish found
on the coast is tlie oolachan or caudle fish. It is smaller
than a herrinf^, and something like a smelt in shape.
When dried it burns like a candle, so fat is it, and they
arc delicious eating. They enter the Frazer in May in
millions; and in the Nass River about the end of
March.
On the Skeena River Valley there is good shooting.
Grizzly bears are numerous, and the ptarmigan is found
along the valley. In the mountains are wild goats ;
there are also panthers, deer, and wolves. It is an
exceedingly rough country, and almost impenetral)le in
in some places.
There are a number of Indians living in this region ;
they work for the salmon-packing compani(\s at Port
Essington. From the middle of August till nearly the
end of October is the best time of year for sport, and canoes
must be used up the river, camping out on the banks.
Up the river, along the banks in many ])laces, trails will
be seen leadino; down to the edije of the river-bed, made
by grizzly and other bears, which, when the salmon are
running, come down at night to feast upon them.
By selecting a bright moonlit night, and taking
a good position near a fresh trail, an interview may be
enjoyed with Mr. Grizzly. This is much the easiest and
72 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
best way of getting a shot. It is a little risky, however,
as it is difficult to get a good siglit with a rifle which
sliould be an express ; and the closer the hunter is to a
bear before shooting, the safer. Buclv-shot destroys the
skin, so that the use of it is objectionable, but it would
be well to have, in reserve, a shot gun loaded with buck-
3hot cartridges which at close range in a charge will, if
the liunter is steady, settle the matter. Indian squaws
are frequently killed by bears, wJiiist picking berries in
the autumn, on which they feed, and they are always
about the river and the ocriy patches, in the season.
The tinil)er of the Province consists of Douglas fir,
spruce, white pine, hemlock, maple, oak, cedar, tamarac,
poplar, ash, clierry, yew, arbutus, and dogwood. Tlio
hard woods are, howevei', brittle wlien seasoned, and not
much used for manufacturing purposes.
The chief exports are of Douglas fir, a splendid wood
admirable for ship-building, being very tough and
durable. The trees grow to tlie height of 300 feet, and
are sometimes as long as 150 feet without knotr,, and
eight to nine feet in diameter. Cedar attains a diameter
of 17 feet. In 1888, 140,01)0,000 feet of lumber was ex-
ported to Asia, Australia, Africa, and South America.
It is most interesting to observe the ease witli which
these enormous lo2:s are managed at the saw-mills. The
very large ones are cut into rather short lengtlis usually.
They are all dragged by oxen, over " ways," in the woods,
and slid into the sea and towed in great rafts to the saw-
mill booms. By means of a cliain-cable the logs are
dragged out of the water, up an inclined plane of stag-
ing attached to the mill, and placed on the saw-carriage.
By means of two immense circular saws, one over the
PRITISII COLUMBIA. ' 73
other, the slabs are then cut off, the loi:^ being easily
turned from side to side by nuicliinery. At Tacoma, in
the State of Washington, 5000 feet of lumber was made
from one tree (reported). The Queen Charlotte Islands,
Ivinnf between latitudes 52^ and 54° north, and lonijjitudes
131° and 183° west, contain about 100,000 acres of land
suitable for agricultural productions, but mostly covered
with dense forest. On the east si(.le there is some open
glass land, and some cattle have been put there to graze.
There are some interestins; ti'ibes of Indians on these
islands, very skilful in wood carving. A silver spoon
cast and moulded from silver dollars, perfectly made and
wonderfully ornamented, is in tlie possession of Mr.
Deems, formerly of the Hudson's Bay Company. The
mould used was of some hard wood. The Indians are
in subjection and peaceable, but the island is unsettled
except by a few fishermen. The Hudson's Bay Company
has a trading post at Masset, on the northern island.
The fisheries ofi" these islands will be very valuable
some day. Halibut are very numerous, and remarkably
fine, and the skil, or black cod, found here, is pronounced
superior in quality to other varieties, both as regards the
oil and the ilavour of the fish. Unfortunately, the depth
of water in which they are caught is very great, from
150 to 300 fathoms, which, in former days, would be a
great drawback, but no doubt in these days some way
will be found of accelerating their journey from the
bottom to the fishing- boats. Two schooner loads,
brought to Victoria in 1888, have been so approved of
tliat preparations are being made to establish a regular
fishery. Dog-fish in immense numbers are caught on the
coast, especially on Vancouver, and the product of oil iu
74 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
IS.ST was 07,000 gals. TIk^ residue of the fisli is valuable
t'oi" mauui'e, and many fishenuGn uiako from .two to
three dollars a day at this business. The rainfall on the
(i)ueen Charlotte Islands is excessive, especially on the
West Coast, in fact it is almost constantly raining during
many months in the year. As it is not cold, lujwever,
ami the soil is good, and capable of furnisliing the
necessaries of life to the cultivator, together with the
lislieries, which include many other than the varieties
menti(med, it is a much more desirable place for a Colony
of fishermen than Newfoundland, where starvation is
likely to ensue in a bad season. The Charlotte Islands
are also capable of affording fine pasture land, grass grow-
ing abundantly. It is certain a pros2:>erous Colony will,
eventually, be established here, but at present the ex-
pense of the necessaries of life, and transportation — there
being only one line of steamers visiting the islands
pei-iodically, and charging exorbitant rates — will keep
]>eople away. The price of Crown lands pre-emptied is
1 dol. per aci-e, and may be paid in four e(jual in-
stalments. The Crown grant excludes gold and silver
ore, and reserves to the Crown a royalty of five cents
per ton, on every ton of merchantable coal raised or
gotten from the land. It also reserves to the Crown,
since the 7th of April, 1887, all timber on the land, ex-
cept for domestic purposes. A pre- emptor, however, can
obtain -i lic( ise to cut the timber of his pre-emption on
payment of dues at the rate of 25 cents per 1000 feet,
board measurement. Vacant surveyed lands not the
sites of towns or Government Reservations, may be
purchased at the rate of 2 dol. 50 c. per acre, paid at
the time of purchase, and the cost of surveying must be
BRITISH COLUMPIA. 75
piiid also. Tlio (|uantity of land must l>o not loss than
IfiO acres, or more than 040 acres in any one district.
The chief points in the ininino- ron-ulations arf) : " Free
miners" only can have ri^-ht or interest in mininn- claims
or ditches. A "free miner" must bo over IG years of
age. His certiHcatcs may be for one year, 5 dols., or
three years, 15 dols. ; not transferable. Ho may enter
and mine Crown lands, or, on makino- compensation,
lands occupie(l for other than mini no- purposes. 'i'o
recover wafjes he must have a minei-'s certificate. A
free miner can only hold two claims by pre-emption, but
may purchase any number. Claims nuist be, as far as
possible, rectann^ular, and must be staked. The sizes
are : " Bar Diggings," 100 feet wide at high water-mark ;
extending into the river to the lowest water level.
"Dry Diggings," 100 feet square. "Creek Claims," 100
feet long in direction of the stream, and in width from
base to base of the hill or bench each side. " Bench
Claims," 100 feet sc[uare. Discoverers of new mines are
allowed 300 feet long for each discovery. " Mineral
Claims" containing, or supposed to contain, minerals
(other than coal) in loads or veins, 1,500 feet lon^jf, by
COO feet wide. A twelvemonths' prospecting license for
480 acres of vacant coal land, in one block, may be
granted by the Government on payment of 25 dols. If
a licensee wishes to ])urchase the coal lands, he can do
so at 2 dols. 50 c. per acre.
On the American border large quantities of haematite
are found. Silver has been found near Hope, on the
Frazer River. The specimens of ore assayed have given
high yields of silver. It has also been found at Yale, on
the Frazer, and a rich silver ore has been brought from
76 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Cherry Creek, a tributary of the Slmswap. Native
silver has been found at Oinenica, in the northern interior,
and argentiferous gah^nas at Omenica and Kooteney.
Professor Selwin states that tliere is every reason to
believe that rich mines of silver will bo opened in the
Province. Specimens received by the Geological Survey''
from the Rocky Mountains, show a high percentage.
Copper has been founa in njany places, that on Howe
Sound being the most proir.isin<j,-. Galena has been found
in many parts of the Province in connection with gold,
and cinnabar has been obtained in the gold washings on
Frazer River and the Hope silver ores. Rich cinnabar
ore was found on the Hornathco in small quantities.
Mercury and platinum have been found in small
quantities. Antimony and bismuth have been found at
Shuswap Lake ; molybdenum near Howe's Sound and
on the Cowichan River.
The Exemption Act provides that homesteads, when
registered, arc exempt from seizure up to 2,500 dols.,
£500 — and goods and chattels are also free to 500 dols.,
£100. Cattle farmed on shares are also protected from
seizure. Public schools are non-sectarian and free to
all. School districts may be formed where there are
fifteen pupils, between five and fifteen years old.
MANITOBA.
CONTENTS.
Value of Land in Manitoba, 78 — Red River Valley, 78 — Nature of
soil on Red River, 78 — The Souris District, 78— The Best Settle-
ments, 79 — The Saskatchewan District, 70 — Riding Mountain, 7fl — •
Western Manitoba, 79 — Life of a Settler, 79 — Houses and Fuel, 80 —
Cellars, 80- Sheds for Stock, 80— Cost of Fuel, 80— Shortness of
the Seasons, 80 — Prices of Necessaries, 81 — Machinery and Imple-
ments, 81 — Advantages of Clear Laud, 81 — Cultivation of Flax, 8*2
— Fire Guards, 83 — Root Cellars, 83 — Poultry Houses, 84 — Wells,
84 — Supplies for Winter, K4 — Necessity of Warm Houses, 84^
Ease of Building a Frame House, 84— Capital necessary for a Set-
tlor (Supplement), 84— Cost of Fencing in the United States, 85 —
^Method of erecting Wire Fence, 80 — Cost of Snake Fence, 87 — Cost
of Labour (.Supplement), 87 — All)erta as a Stock Range, 87 —
Supply of Hay, SS— Chinook ^Vind, SS -Summer Frosts, 8S —
Profits of Dairies, 88 — Management, 88 — Poultry, 80— Licubation,
89 - Government Lands in Albtrta, 90 — The Red-deer Settlement,
90 — Edmonton District, 90— .Supplies at Calgarry and Edmonton,
90 — Mos(putos and Flics, 90— Climate, 91 — Low Ten.pcraturo, 91
— .Sutferings of .Settlers in the .States, 91 — " Caught in a Blizzard
during a Honeymoon,"' 92 — Precautions against Freezing, 93 —
Treatment of Frostbite, 93 — Terrible F^xperience of a Mail Carrier,
94 — Infreijuency of Blizzards in Manitoba, 95 — SuH'erings of Cattle
on tlie Ranges, 95 — Cattle Flies, 90- AVinter Weather, 97— Summer
Weather, 97 — Remarkable Range of Temperature, 97 — Salubrity
of the Climate, 97— FTies in Manitoba, OS— Quality of Cereals and
Vegetables, 98 — Climate of Alberta, 98 — Climate of Edmonton, 98
— Temperatures at Cumberland House, 99 — Phenomena of .Seasons,
99— iSiniils of Cereal Productions, 101 — Shooting and Game, 101 —
Fish, 102.
A GREAT (leal of relial)Ic information concernino: Mani-
toba, tlic Norfch-West Territory, and British Columbia,
78 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
in pamplilets issued by the Canadian Pacific Railroad
Company, can be obtained free, on application to Mr.
Arclier Baker, General European Agent of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, 17 James Street, Liverpool.
In no part of North America can land of such fine
quality be obtained at so reasonable a price. All choice
Government land anywhere near settlements and rail-
roads is taken up, and the best lands of the Railroad
and North-west Land Companies are held at from 6 to
10 dols. per acre. The Red River district, comprising
the valley of that river, and its contiguous prairies, is
composed of soil of surpassing fertility, a deep, black
loam, but inundations occur in the spring, when the ice
breaks up.
The Red Fork of Red River, which gives it this name,
flows out of Red Lake in Minnesota, the waters bein^r of
a reddish-brown cast in strong contrast Avith the whitish,
milky appearance of the stream coming from Otter Tail
Lake, which henceforth assumes a darker hue. Much of
the soil on the banks of the Red River is of a stitf,
argillaceous character, and in some places it cracks and
bakes together in drying. The enormous quantity of
water discharged through this river in the spring floods
an immense tract of country at times. The Souris dis-
trict, in Southern' Manitoba, is principally undulating
prairie, with a number of small lakes and ponds, and
is swam])y in many places in spring. There is abun-
dance of fine grass for hay, and it is a good stock country
in the summer. There is no timber in this district,
except a little on the plateau called Pembina Mountain.
Of the central prairie region, the districts of Brandon,
Birtle, Minnedosa, Shoal Lake, Pipestone, Virden, Valley
MANITOBA. 79
^H -^
of the Soui'is, and Qu'Api)elle contuiii an iiiuuense area
of rich lands, M'itli good settlements, and a most desirable
class of settlers. In the Saskatchewan district, owini»; to
lack of railway and market facilities, there is an ample
field for the selection of Government lands by those who
can rough it and lead an isolated life until more settle-
ments are established. Game will be found more
plentiful, and there is more timber and shelter for stock.
In the Riding Mountain district of this division, and
west of it, the country is much broken with tiiid)er,
creeks, lakes, and ponds. Towards the western boundary
of Manitoba, and in Alberla, the rainfall is less, and
shortage of prairie hay has occurred in consequence of
the drying-up of wet places and ponds necessary to pro-
duce a sufficient swarth, and the amount of hay to be
obtained on the prairie is rapidly decreasing — in the
vicinity of settlements especially. Some distress and
discouragement has been occasioned by serious droughts
which have occurred in this region, but the cultivation
of large areas of land, the planting of trees, and especially
deep ploughing and thorough woriving of the soil will, in
a great measure, correct this evil. The hardships the
settler in Manitoba has to endure arise from the leniith
and severity of the winters. Lumber is expensive, and
much more of it is re(]uired than in warmer countries to
build houses and proper sheds for cattle. A great deal
of fuel must be burnt, hay and other feed consumed, and
a considerable portion of the year spent in winter
(quarters living on the proceeds of his sunnner's work.
Where good logs cannot be obtained, wdiich is the case
in most parts of Western Manitoba, frame buildings
must be constructed having double floors, with .paper
So THE BRITISH COLONIST.
lining between ; also between the Wcalls, and with double
window sashes. Coal is a considei'able item in the ex-
penditure ; for it' fires are not kept up at night, every-
thing in the house will freeze. A cellar under the house,
with a double floor, will, if properly constructed and
sufficiently deep, be frost-proof. Buildings for stock
should have double walls, and some insulating mateiial
between — such as tarred paper. Excellent sheds for
stock can bo built of a framework of timber covered
with straw, the walls being formed by straw two or
three feet thick, between wattling or slats. These are
cheap and warmer than anything built at greater ex-
pense. It is of great importance to protect stock from
the bitter cold they are often sulrjected to, not only on
the score of humanity, but because it takes less feed, and
they come out of the winter so much better, especially
young animals. For heating purposes in the house,
anthracite coal, having a red ash, is much the best. It
is burnt in a base-bui'ning, self -feeding stove, keeping
up a steady heat all niglit, and warming several
rooms. An ordinary stove of this kind will consume
about one ton a month, depending on the draught and
quality of the coal. The ordinary cooking stov^, when
burnt all day in winter, will consume about one ton per
month of bituminous coal. At 9 dollars for anthracite,
and (j dollars for bituminous coal per ton, six months'
consumption would amount to 90 dollars for fuel during
the winter. The shortness of the working season is
another drawback, common, however, to other northern
States in the Union. There is very little time after
harvest to plough a large area before the ground freezes
up, and extra teams nuist be kept fur this purpose ; and
MANITOBA, Pi
the cost of the wintor feed, and interest on the capital
invested in tiiem, is to be considere(l. Farm hired-lahour
is expensive, and will soon eat up the profits if much
employed. The earlier settlers in IManitoba had much
to complain of in the way of ver}^ liiLjh prices for fai-ni
machinery, lumber, and the necessaries of life, but many
changes for the better have taken place. Although
prices are still kept up higher than they ought to l)e,
yet contrasted with those on the other side of the line,
the American farmer has the advantage ; and men of
revolutionary disposition in Manitoba, incited Vjy Ameri-
c ms, make use of this t(/ foster a spirit of discontent.
Until within the last few years American farmers in the
West, and on the Pacific, have had the same difficulties
to contend with — viz., higli prices for farm machinery,
and implements, and articles of all kinds not pi'oduced
in the country, the piices being kept up by " combina-
tion " until the competition became so keen that these
"rings" were broken. Only a few years ago a common
farm Avaggon, which could be bought in the Middle States
for 70 dollars, was sold at 120 dollars on thf; Pacific
slope.
In commencing farming on the prairie lands of Mani-
toba, a man has a very great advantage over one who
has to wrestle with timber and stumps, and wear his life
out in clearing a farm. The early settlers in the New
England States in the East had all this to contend with,
and worse winters added.
The settler on open land, free of stumps and roots, can
at once turn the sod at the rate of two to three acres a
day with a 16-inch breaking plough and three good
horses abreast. He can plant his potatoes in the fur-
82 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
rows, turning the .sod over them, and raise a good ciop.
Oats can be sown on the sod, and, perhaps, 20 bushels
per acre harvested ; but the best crop of all on the l)reak-
ing is Russian flax, yielding a crop of from six to twelve
bushels per aci'o of seeil, worth from SO to 100 cents per
bushel. The average cost of breaking fine, even, prairie
land is three dollars to three dollars fifty cents per acre
on contract. It will, therefore, be seen that there is a
chance of much more than paying the expense of break-
ing the first year, and this has frequently been accom-
plished in Iowa, Minnesota, and, probably, Dakota. The
best method of ensuring a croj) of flax is as follows : — As
early as possible in spring, frost being out of the ground
to sufficient depth, turn evenly a sod of three inches in
thickness laid over flat as can be. When danger of
frost is over, and especially when rain is impending, sow
broadcast about three ])ecks of tlax-seed per acre, and
cut it well in with the rotary disc harrow, going over the
ground several times, parallel with the furrows. A
smoothing-harrow, with very slanting teeth, that will
not turn up the sod, can afterwards be put over with
still further improvement. If seasonable rains ensue,
the crop is likely to be a good one^ })at if a diy season,
it will be very scanty. Everything depends upon giving
the seed as good a bed as possible without turning up
the sod. It is cut usually with a table-rake harvesting
machine — an attachment to an ordinary mower — or it
can be cut with a mower, and hand-raked into small
parcels. In the State of Ohio the average crop used to
be 63 bash els per acre, with from 500 to 800 lbs. of
straw. Flax grown in this way is not an exhaustive
crop, and H leaves the sod in an excellent condition for
MANITOBA.
back-setting. The seed is easily threshed out, and the
straw, where it cannot be sokl to a factory, is useful for
many purposes, especially for making frost-proof walls
for out-buildings. A guai'd must be formed round the
farm to protect it from prairie fires. Several furrows
are ploughed on either side of a piece of ground twenty
yards wide all round the farm, and when the season for
fire approaches, tlie grass is carefully burnt. This con-
stitutes a " fire-brake." From the neglect of tliis pre-
caution, j)ropei'ly done, many farms are destroyed in the
States. Koot cellars, or pits, should be constructed to
preserve all kinds of vegetables. Tiie practice of keep-
ins; them in a cellar under the dwellin<:j-house is not a
good one. A pit about seven or eight feet deep, and of
any dimensions required, can be dug (on elevated ground
if ])ossible), the sides being scarped down evenly and a
little sloping, and they can be i)lastered with a mixture
of one-part cement to three of sand, wet in small quanti-
ties, and put on quickl}^ the floor being treated in the
same way. A double roof, if of lumber, 12 inches apart,
well packed with flax straw, or a heavy roof of thatch,
should be formed, with a chimney for ventilation. A
drain round the eves of the roof, a double door, closely-
fitting and packed with straw, and steps to descend, will
complete a frost-proof cellar ; but no crevices must be
left, and in very cold weather the chimney must be
stopped.
Potatoes which, perhaps, could not be sold for 10 cents
per bushel in the autumn, may be worth one dollar in the
spring if kept over the winter in good order.
During the winter the ground will freeze three or four
feet deej), and special provision nmst l.»e made for stor-
84 THE BRITISH II COLONIST.
age. Poultry liouses should lia\'e double walls and other
precautious to exclude the cold, and flat perches, three
inches wide, used, so that the feathers may protect the
feet, or they will freeze. Special attention should be
given to the well and the [)uinp, a f^ood one of the non-
freezing kind, or the water 6ui)ply will be cut off. All
supplies for the winter should be laid in before its com-
mencement.
Neglect of the precautions enumerated will lead to
much hardship, which can be avoided. A house pioperly
constructed, whether of lumber or logs, will save fuel
and much suffering, especially to the female portion of
the family.
It is not a difficult matter to build an ordinary frame-
house, either of one or two storeys, by a man who is faiily
liandy with tools, as every man ought to be in this coun-
try, and, with some assistance at times, he can erect his
own liouse after ploughing and seeding, living in the
meantime in the liouse of some settler, or in a tent or
rough shanty of his own, and thus save from 100 to 200
dollars on the house and other buildinj^s.
Very low^ estimates are made of the amount of capital
necessary for a settler to commence with ; but, to
make a fair start, the following expenditure will be
necessary : —
Pair of horse.s %?>^^
Waggon 90
Harness ... ... 45
Two pl(juglis ... ... ... ... ... 4G
Mower 80
Hor.se-rake 35
Harrow ... ... ... ... 22
Entry of 100 acres 10
^r.mlTonA. ss
Foiu'iii",' 40 ficivH, at 7r> coiits poi- nul ... .S*;>n(>
Jirciikiiig 40 ficros, at tliroo dt^Uar.s por auro... 120
Building uf small Ikhiso ... ... ... 400
Fiinii.shing (iiicludiiig two stoves) ... ... 150
Food for DUO year (two peivsous) ... ... 240
Six cows 300
Ono bull 200
Outbuildings ... ... loO
Sundiios... ... 100
Ileservc fund 500
Total .5?,3148
The produce of five cows (one being reserved for
home use) for the year should be at least (jOO lbs. of
butter, which, at 25 cents per lb., would l)e 150 dollars.
Six calves should be worth GO dollars, making a divi-
dend of 210 dollars, or about six per cent, on the total
investment of £G47.
The item of furnishing does not include bedding, talile
linen, cutlery, and crockery, which should be brought
from England.
The item of 500 dollars for fencinnr 40 acres is jj^reat
in proportion to the area fenced, but the whole IGO acres
can be fenced for ^^00 dollars, at the same rate per rod.
The cost of fencing is a most costly item in the expense of
farming in North America. Reliable statistics prove
that the fences of the State of Pennsylvania, where posts
and rails and snake fences are used, cost not less than
1,125 dollars per 100 acres, or a total cost of 180,000,000
dollars for the State ; and the estimated annual cost of
keeping them in repair is 10,000,000 dollars ; and it seems
that the total value of live stock and fencinof is about
the same. Wire fence is the best and cheapest, and is
86 THE nRITISIl COLONIST
easily and (|uickly creftud in tlie followin^i^ inamun" :
Lay out tlic line, and dijr out a spadeful of turl' every
rod. Siinrpcn the cuds of tlic posts and drive them with
a heavy mall, g^oing along the line with a wago-on, and
standing in it to drive them. Set the corner post firmly,
and brace it hy boards nailed to two other posts, one on
either side of the angle. Place the spool of barbed wire
on a bar of iron, so that it will revolve, and set it on the
waggon box near the end, removing the end gate. Attach
the wire to the corner post (the top one first) by one turn
round, well secured by staples. Drive the waggon along
the line, unreeling the wire close as possible to the posts,
which one man superintends, the bar of iron being secured
from slipping off the w^aggon. When the end of the line
is reached, or about 150 yards out, place the waggon in
line with the posts, put on the break, aiid brace tlie rear
axle with a post for that purpose. Pull in the slack of
the wdre, and attach a log chain to the wire six or eight
feet from the wago:on wheel, which must be raised from
the ground so as to revolve. Take a turn of the chain
round the hub of the wheel, and use the latter to wind
up the wire tight. When this is done, two men go back
on the line, raise the wire to its position, previously
marked, or using a measuring gauge, and secure it with
staples. While this is being done, the man with the
team drives in another post, six feet from the station
post, and braces it with boards nailed to both posts.
When this is done, the process is continued as before,
and in this way a tight fence can be made. The wire
should not be strained too tight, but a little experience
will settle this point. The wire should stand a strain of
2000 lbs., which allows for contraction in winter. Small
MAKlTOnA. 87
distances of wire can bo set with a crank i'or the pur-
])ose.
The cost of crectin<:j a snake fence with rails 12 feet
loni^ is as follows : Tiireo thousand one Iiundred and
fifty rails to half a mile of fence, and 12,000 to 100 acres.
The co.st for niakint,^ with good timber is 10 dollars per
100; cost of erection, 15 dollars per half niih^: total for
100 acres, 180 dollars; ]iot including cost of timber and
haulinn:. When cedar rails are used the fence lasts a
long time, but otherwise it decays in a few years and
requires renewing.
The material for a fence of three barbed wires only
will cost about 30 cents in the States, and nearly GO
cents in the North West, per rod. But such a fence is
only useful for cattle, and not a legal fence in many
places, a board beinn required as well.
The cost of hired I'arin labour is from 25 to 30 dollars
per month with board, which will cost the farmei' from
35 to 45 cents per day for each man.
The Alberta district is at present the finest grazing
country in North America, but there is danger of the
range being destroyed by large herds of cattle being ke[)t
too lonir on one rano-e. At a time when immense herds
of buffalo existed on the plains, there was always jilenty
of grass, because the butialo grazed north in the spring,
continually moving on and leaving the ground gone over
to recuperate. In the winter they returned and found
again an abundant cro]) of grass. If a proper system
of cattle ranging is not ailo[)ted, the range will be de-
stroyed as it is in the Western States. Sheep are
especially injurious, when ke[)t long on the same ground.
It will be difficult to supply piairie hay for so large a
SS THE BRITISH COLONIST.
nuiiiber of cattle as avo likely soon to be on the ranges.
The growth of prairie hay rapidly diminishes when
annually cut, unless the ground is subjected to inunda-
tion. It is not safe to attempt to winter cattle without
a supply of hay, and under the most favourable circum-
stances yoinig stock, if not fed during the severe weather,
are checked in development. The most favourable part
of Calgarry district is already occupied. All the settle-
ments south of Calgarry to Fort Macleod are particularly
favoured by the Chinook wind, but even here crops arc
liable to suffer from frost ; for there are not more than
two months in the year in which the temperature does
not occasionally fall to the frost line. By deep plough-
ing and minute pulverisation and other precautions, good
crops may be and are produced, but it is not safe to rely
on them, and breedins^ stock and raising grass or green-
oat feed should be adopted. Another trouble is that the
rainfall is scanty.
Both Manitoba, and especially Alberta, are well
adapted for the dairy, and the settler, witli compara-
tively little capital, can successfully enter into this
business, it' he has a fair knowledge of the management
of it. The native grasses are of particularly fine quality,
au'l a return of 50 dollars per cow, including the value
of the calf, is not difficult to obtain. In JMinnesota,
dairy returns have been most satisfactory to those who
have shown good judgment, and circumstances are quite
as favourable, if not more so, in Manitoba and the North-
Wcst. Most farmers cease milking their cows on the
approach of winter in the north-western states, consider-
ing the cost of feeding more than the value of the re-
turns, and thereby seriously impairing the milk-produc-
:rANiTortA. So
ing qualities of their cows. During a very cold winter
in Iowa, when the thermometer often fell as low as 25",
a good cow warmly staV)lcd, and fed on prairie hay,
with a ration of barley-meal and l)ran, gave an average
yield of six pounds of butter per week, during the whole
winter. In Alberta, in a portion of which the winters
are comparatively short, an intelligently managed dairy
will be the safest and most remunerative investment for
a man of moderate capital ; and in conjunction with
this the breeding of swine. For these two products
there will be a constant demand. The breedina* of
poultry will, also, be a profital)lc undertaiving in con-
nection with a dairy (within certain limits). The profits
on a yard of poultry, up to 100 hens, should average
one dollar per head. The climate, subject as it is to
sudden and great variations of temperature, is not
favourable for the use of the incubator : but with a pro-
perly constructed house for this purpose, the difficulty
may, to a great extent, be overcome. From 75 to 80
per cent, of eggs can be hatched with an incubatoi', and
the chickens, if skilfully managed, will, in every respect,
be equal to those reared by the hen. This statement is
made from actual experience with the use of " Hal-
stead's Incubator" (Oakland, California). The keeping
of poultry for eggs principally is the most profitable ;
but still more so is the bi-eeding of thorough-bred fowls.
In this climate, hovever, and in all in which severe
winters are encountered, considerable outlay is necessary
for properly constructed buildings, and without experi-
ence and unremitting attention, satisfactory results will
not be obtained, on any but a small yard for domestic
purposes. The keeping of poultry on a large scale re-
00 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
quires peculiarly favourable circuinsfcances to make ifc a
financial success, and no one should attempt it without
a thorough knowledge of the subject. Tiie profits on a
small number can be shown to be very great, and this
has induced many people to undertake the management
of a large number and failure has resulted.
There is Government land witliin 30 miles of Calgarry,
but the most desirable land for entry will be found on
the Red Deer River, about 100 miles north of Calgarry
on the Edmonton road. There is some tind)er in this
district, and plenty of fine land, water, and grass ; and
although the winters are colder and steadier, there is less
danger of summer frosts owing to its distance from the
mountains. In the Edmonton district, farther north,
there is plenty of excellent land, and large crops are
often raised. This is all a fine grass country, and stock
will do well if hay is provided for them. North-west
and north-east of Edmonton there is rich soil, tine grass,
water, and timber, and though the seasons are short,
barley, wheat, and fine crops of potatoes and hardy
vegetables can be raised. Tiie distance is 200 miles
from Calgarry, on the Canadian Pacific, to Edmonton.
During the summer, steamers run up the Saskatchewan,
and a branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway is to be
C(mstructed, wdiich will no doubt be extended into the
Peace River district. Persons intending to settle can fit
out at Calgarry with team, waggon, and necessary provi-
sions, and drive to Edmonton, in eight days, inspecting
the country en route, after having received "notes" from
the agent at the Land Office. Supplies of all kinds at
Edmonton will be expensive at present. Mosquitos are
very troublesome in Alberta and the North-West Terri-
MA!^ITOBA. 91
toiy, an^'whcre near a stream or lake during the day-
time, and horse and cattle flies arc terrible plagues both
to man and beast. The climate of Manitoba is very
healthy and bracing, a little too much of the latter occa-
sionally. In the southern portion of the Province
blizzards occur more frequently ; they are, however, not
nearly so severe or dangerous as those common to Min-
nesota and Dakota. The cold is often intense in winter ;
a temperature of 47° and 48"" is recorded. At this
temperature mercury, poured into bullet moulds and
exposed, was frozen solid in twenty minutes, and the
bullets afterwards shot out of a fowling-piece. Wlien
the thermometer indicated 41°, 42°, the mercury was
not frozen solid, but only turned of a lighter colour
with a frosted appearance. Going out of doors in this
w^cather affects the breathing like plunging into cold
water. There is no wind with these very low tempera-
tures, fortunately, and it is astonishinrj how well it can
be borne in this climate, when properly clothed and
ordinary precautions taken. A temperature from 25° to
40° is often recorded <luring the w^inter, nevertheless the
cold is not nearly so intensely felt, as in the northern
portion of the State of Iowa, when temperature there is
only from 6° to 10°. At these temperatures, with a
keen wind and often a blizzard, in Iowa, Minnesota, and
Dakota, it is with great difficulty life can be maintained
by those exposed to it.
The following narratives will give an idea of the
terrible sufferings and dangers incurred by people who
incautiously expose themselves to the blizzards of
Dakota and Minnesota : —
A few years ago a farmer in Dakota drove a short
g2 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
distance — six or seven miles — -to a small town. The
weather was fine and clear when ho started, but soon
after his ari'ival, the appearance became very suspicious,
and his experience warned him a blizzard was impend-
ing. In spite of this, he, in all probability, lost some
valuable time, for the storm was upon him in full force
before lie was half way across the prairie intervening
between his home and the town. The thermometer had
rapidly fallen many degrees below zero, and a furious
and blindinfj snowstorm raffed in his face, tillino: his ears
and nostrils, and obliterating all traces of the road.
" Death stared him in the face " ; his only chance of
escape was by not missing his house. Fortunately, his
horses, well-used to the route and left to their own
guidance, reached the ])arn safely. During the ensuing
night the snow fell unremittingly and drifted so fast,
that, in the morning, the house, on the side next the
barn, was packed with snow up to the roof, and all com-
munication with the former cut off. It tlien became
necessary to tunnel througli the drift in order to reach
the horses ami cattle in the barn, a very arduous task —
as the snow had to be carried out of the tunnel as fast
as excavated, and passed througli the house to the other
side, and a passage of some fifty yards made in this way
before the stock could be fed.
On another occasion a newly-married couple started
on their " honeymoon " in a " sleigh." They were over-
taken on a prairie by a blizzard of great severity, but
the husband, with presence ot mind, unhitched and
turned loose the horses, and upsetting tlie sleigh, took
refuge underneath with his wife, and wrapped in a
buffalo robe, and assisted by the shelter of a snow drift.
MANITOBA. 93
which imiiiediately formed, safely weathered a storm in
which others perished. Tlie horses, instinctively, made
their way back to their stable, and on the subsidence of
the storm a relief party set out and found the '' happy "
pair in the position described.
It is the custom on the ])hiins of Dakota and ilinne-
sota for farmers to attach a line to the barn, leadino- to
the house, for tlieir guidance in these stornjs ; for during
a severe blizzaril, at a distance of only a few yards, it
may be impossible to find the house or barn without the
line in hand to guide. With a wind of a velocity of 30
or 40 miles per hour, the snow is driven into the eyes,
nose, ears, and mouth, and with the intense cold a man
soon becomes confused and stupefied, and many have
been lost in tliis way.
With a good skin robe, or even a heavy blanket, a
man can weather any storm, if he buries himself in the
snow, making a small aperture to breathe through ; and
by taking coffee and some rations, as a precaution when
taking a risky journey, any emergency, nearly, may bo
safely met. Spirits of any kind should never be drunk ;
])robably 75 per cent, of the cases of injury and death
from exposure to the stomns and low temperatures of
the north-west of America have occurred to pei-sons
under the influence of alcohol. Tea or coffee should be
taken as a stimulant when about to encounter a low
tempei'ature. In case any portion of the body becomes
frozen, friction with snow, or immersion in cold water,
by breaking through the ice or otherwise, followed by
friction, should be adopted ; and under no circumstances
should a ])erson be taken to a warm room until a reaction
has set in. On one occasion, during a severe storm in
94 THE BRITISH COLON /ST.
Kansas, a fanner found a man in the road near his house
insensible, and frozen from head to foot. In many cases
the person frozen would have been carried into a warm
house, but in this one, the farmer, very prudently, im-
mediately immersed the body in cold water by breaking
the ice, and afterwards removed it to an outhouse, and,
by means of friction, establislied a natural reaction
which saved the man's life.
Some of the half-bred Indians in the north-west can
endure an amazingly low temperature with little pro-
tection. One of these men, with two others, was, while
carrying the United States mail to Fort Totten in Dakota,
sul)jected to a terrible ordeal. The story was related by
him while acting as guide to a party of hunters in that
territory. It was late in the autumn that the party
referred to, after a long march, camped on the margin of
a lake south of the Slieyenne River. On approach of
night it became cold and frost}'', and some blankets were
offered to the guide, who was not supplied with any.
He, however, refused them, and lay down on the bare
ground by the camp-fire, and was soon asleep. On ask-
ing him next day if he had not suffered from the cold,
he lauixhed and said he thought he could stand almost
anything after what he had once gone through. He
then told us the following story. En route to Fort
Totten, he, with two others, mounted, camped on the
banks of a small creek in th<^ prairie. Early in the
morning the weather looked threatening, but they
pushed on, hoping to reach the next camping-place before
the storm set in. They were, however, caught half-way,
and even their wonderful and instinctive knowledge of
locality failed to aid them in [lursuing a course, had
MANITOBA. 95
such a thing been possible. There was only one small
Government blanket (a " contract " one) between them ;
the small pieces used for saddle-cloths being of little use.
Turning loose their ponies, they crept close together
under the one poor blanket, a.. here remained all that
day and the ensuing niglit, during which a thermometer,
perhaps, would have fallen to 80° or more. In the
morning the storm ha<l subsided, and our friend the
guide crawled out from between the *' dead bodies " of
his companions. So intense had been the cold that the
poor ponies were found also frozen to death. The guide,
taking the mail-bag, set out for Fort Totten, which he
reached safely. It is a fortunate thing for Manitobans
that iiiey are seldom subjected to these blizzards, in wit-
ness whereof it may be noted that the Canadian Pacific
trains are seldom if ever blocked by snow-drifts. It is,
on the contrary, very unfortunate for the States of
Dakota, Minnesota, and Iowa that they are subjected to
these terrible storms in winter, and cyclones and tornados
in sunnner, so that neither life nor property is safe from
the latter. These States are abundantly supplied with
magnificent farming lands, and the climates are very
healthy (except when a cyclone strikes one). From the
incidents related, the intense sufi'eiing of unfortunate
animals exposed on the treeless ])lains of North- West
America will at once be understood. With feet drawn
together, arched backs, and trembling from the cold,
they often present a pitiable spectacle to a humane man,
but the average stock-owner in the west cares nothing
for this if they can live through it. Year after year the
reports of terrible suftering and loss of life of the stock
on the plains are made. Stock-men will not go to the
96 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
expense, in some instaiiccf?, of providini^ hay for tlie
winter, and, in others, luiy cannot be obtained. The
cattle in the Calgairy disti-ict have enjoyed exceptional
advantacfes in findincf refuse in the broken country alonsf
the foot-hills of the mountains, and plenty of grass; but
even here, with the occasional advent of the ' Chinook,"
and innnnnity from very deep snows, severe loss has
occurred. There are many places in the northerly por-
tion of Manitoba and Alberta, such as the Touchwood,
Riding Mountain, Blackfoot Hills, and any broken
country with groves of trees affording shelter, in which,
owing to the superior quality and quantity of the feed,
cattle can be safely wintered with a comparatively small
amount of feed, a:-, the snow is dry and powdery, and
does not crust and prevent their getting at the grass, and
they will winter much better and safer than the stock
in many parts of the South ; especially as they are com-
paratively little subjected to the piercing winds of the
southern plains. Young stock — yearlings and calves —
how^ever, should have shelter. In the future there will
be more profit as well as pleasure in keeping an im-
proved breed of cattle, and giving them proper shelter.
Larsre three-sided wind-breaks, or sheds covered with
straw, grass, or reeds, can be erected at a moderate ex-
pense; and, on the score of humanity, laws should be
enacted to compel owners of stock to give animals
shelter during winter ; and for their own pecuniary ad-
vantage they should, especially in Manitoba and the
" North-West," provide sheds in summer to keep off the
flies, which by their torment retard the accumulation of
tissue, and in the case of dairy cows considerably
diminish the quantity of milk. Cattle will graze from
MANITOBA, 97
before daylight up to the time tlie flics appear — when
tlie sun is hot, and in tliat time secure a good suj)ply of
forage ; they can then retire to these open sheds to
ruminate in peace, as the flies will not go into a
darkened shed ; hut without such shelter they will be
harassed all day.
Most of the winter in Manitoba consists of still
bright weather ; occasional snowstorms, with a wind
which drives the snow before it, called blizzards, occur ;
but, as a rule, snow does not drift much or fall so dee])
as in a more southerly latitude. Canadian clothing
is admirably adapted for these winters, and with a pro-
perly constructed house and warm sheds for cattle, the
winters need not trouble the settler. Persons who do
not thoroughly make uj) their mimls to like and endure
a long and severe winter, however, will not be happy in
this climate. The average temperature for the month of
January, on which the very low ones of 47'' and 48°
occurred — was 20^°. The highest point reached during
the month was 30° ; the lowest, 48° ; giving a range of
78°. The summers are hot, with cool nights, and the
breeze is so dry and refreshing, that the heat can be
well borne.
From the 17th June to 17th July inclusive, the mean
temperature was 69°. The warmest day was on July
17th, when the mercury stood at 96° ; the coolest was
July 2nd, whicli was 48°. The range between the
coldest day of January, 48°, and the hottest day in July,
was 148°. These figures may be very startling to some
people, but, notsvithstanding the extreme temperatures
of this climate, the people enjoy excellent health ; and
their robust appearance, and clear, healthy com})lexion,
G
98 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
are in striking' contrast to those of the t'ever-stricken
inhabitants of very many parts in the United States.
One great blessing enjoyed by the Manitobans is their
exemption from tlic terrible cyclones and thunderstorms
of the States ; of which Uncle Sam seems to have the
monopoly.
Cattle Hies and niosquitos (in the day-time) are a great
plague in Manitolja ; the latter, especially, on the Ked
River, and both, especially on the wet lands, in the south
part of the Souris district. Little may be said of the
cereals raised, their (juality being widely known.
The flavour- of the vegetables grown is most excellent ;
potatoes are of specially lino flavour, but they are
equally as good in Minnesota and Dakota. The climate
of Alberta is less severe than that of Manitoba,
especially in the Calgarry district and all that portion
subject to the warm Chinook wind. The winters are
much shorter as regards the severe weather, and it is
often pleasant, sunny, and mild weather during the days
up into December. In January and February, the
thermometer will sometimes fall as low as 80°, for a short
period only. In the sjn'ing, there are frosts at night up
into May, and close to the mountains ; frost at night is
likely to prevail throughout the summer. The summer
and autumn weather is delightful. Nothinoj can be more
invigorating and exhilarating than the effects of this
climate, but during the winter the sudden and great
change of temperature, which may be 60° or 70° in a few
hours, caused by the Chinook wind, is very trying. The
climate in the Edmonton district, although much farther
north, is not so cold as Southern Manitoba, although the
winter is longer. A record of the coldest days in
MANITOBA. 90
January and February, at Edmonton, lat. 53° -tO' N.,
long, ll.r W., altitude 1800. gives 27' and 25°, with a
niontidy mean of 3° 52', and 3° 08', respectively. At
Cumberland House in the Saskatchewan River, lat. 53°
57' N., long. 102° 20' W., altitude 900 feet, the following
temperatures are recorded : —
HIGHEST TEMP.
LOWEST TEMl'
June
87'' ..
42
July
98
47
Auir
90
49
Sept
73
30
Oct
G8
5
Nov
38
10
Dec
25
26
Jan
25
32
Feb
34
35
March..
50
9
April....
55
3
May
93
27
Wheat ripens well in the limestone districts, and on
the prairies, but in others it is likely to be touched by
frost.
The following phenomena, indicating the progress of:
the seasons at Cumberland House, lat. b^" 57' N., and
long. 102° 20', taken by a factor of the Hudson's Bay
Company, will, with slight variations, give a good idea
of the climate —
March 4th. Watering collecting in pools round the house.
„ 7th. Much bare ground visible.
„ 12th. Temperature in the shade rose for first time to SO'' Fahr.
„ 21st. The River Saskatchewan broke up partially.
„ 2Gth. A white-headed eagle was seen. This is the first of
summer birds to arrive.
100 THE BRrilSII COLONIST.
April 2ud. Thu Kivui* S;i.sk;itcliu\viiii fio;5u (»vor figdiii, uftor houio
very coM days.
„ 8tli. First snow-buntinj^ soon (Emherita niv(ilis).
„ I'Jt.i. lifvrking cruwa {(Jovvks Atncricannn) arrive.
„ 20th. Gooso and swans soon.
„ 2l8t. Policans and ducks arrive.
„ 28th. Saakatchuwan thoroughly brokon up.
„ 30th. Conuuorcial pluuL,diing.
May 2nd. A fall of snow to tho doi)th of two foot. (E.vcoptional.)
13th. Plantint,' potatoes.
17th. Wheat, sown on tho 8th, above ground ; having germi-
nated in nine days.
,, 21st. Barley, sown on tho 14th, above ground ; germinating in
seven days.
22nd. Leaves of trees expanding rapidly.
30th. Potatoes, planted on the ll?tli, aj)pearod above ground.
From the 23rd to the 30th in this year, temi>erature
in the shade at 2 p.m., varied fnnn 78" Fahr. to 1)3"
Falir.
Aug. 1st. Commenced reaping barley.
Sept. 2nd. Flocks of water-fowl beginning to arrive from tho north.
,, 3rd. First fall of snow.
,, 4th. Large flocks of water-fowl flying south.
,, 11th. First hoar-frost. Birch and aspen leaves turning
yellow.
,, 20th. Snow.
,, 21st. Heavy snow.
,, 24th. Thunder and lightning.
Oct. 1st. Taking up potatoes.
,, 5th. Leaves all olF deciduous trees.
,, 11th. Thermometer at 2 p.m., in shade, 08" Fahr. (unusually
high).
,, 14th. Water- fowl passing south.
,, 15th. Bays oi the lake frozen over.
,, IGth, Ground frozen hard.
,, 17th. Last water-fowl seen.
Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, &c., can be raised even
MANITOBA. 101
at Fort Liard, lat. W .5' nortli, long. 122° 31' west, but
in some years the I'rost touehes the wheat, and prevents
the oats ripening. At Dunvogan, on Peace lliver, in hit.
5G° G' north, hmg 117' 45' west, altitude 778 feet, the
cultivation of wheat is attended by uncertain results.
In any locality in the vicinity of the mountains, frosts
occur and prevent wheat and oats ripening. At Fort
Alexandria, on Frazer's River, in lat. 52' 30' north, long.
122° 40' west, altitude 400 feet, good crops of wheat have
been raised with facility, and potatoes of excellent quality
at all the ])laccs mentioned. At Fort Norman, 1 it. G5°
north, in some seasons barley ripens well, and potatoes
are of good (piality, but occasionally nipped by I'rost.
There is some g(jod prairie grouse shooting to be had
on the wheat fields in August and September, and, to-
wards the end of the former month, ducks in great
variety, snipe, and plover arrive from the north, and are
found on the lakes, small ponds and marshes everywhere.
In the " Hiding House " district there are an innnenso
nundjcr of ponds and small lakes covered with wild fowl
for a short time only, as they go to the " wheat fields "
and remain in their vicinity for a few weeks until the
ice forms, when they go south.
In the spring the ducks and geese and other wild fowl
arrive from the south, and remain for a short time on
their way nortli. In the autumn ducks and geese, etc.,
are of delicious flavour, being well nourished on the
wheat fields. The " golden plover " is found here. They
aj)pear in large flocks and fre(iuent fallow lands, especially
new breakings, and are of very fine quality, being so
fat as to be translucent. Large game is very scarce, so
much hunting is done by Indians and half-breeds, and a
10.2 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
lon^'T journey into tlio North and North- West must be
made to get any sport.
In the woods, the ruffed and willow grouse are found.
The wapiti ranges as far north as the east branch of the
river of the mountains in 59'' north latitude. A
small band of buffalo is reported as existing in the north,
which will no doubt be protected by the Government.
There arv3 some antelope on the prairies, remote from
settlements, also bear, moose, goat, and in some very
remote and rugged portions of the mountains, big-horn
(mountain sheep). A variety of fish jxist, bass, pike
carp, white fish and carp, and in the waters of the
Saskatchewan two varieties of sturgeon, one a small
variety up to 15 lbs. ; the other, called by the Cree Indians
the Nameyu, raiiges from 90 to 130 lbs. Trout are to be
found in the mountain streams west of Calgarry. The
game laws are, very properly, being strictly enforced any-
where in the country adjacent to settlements.
WASHINGTON STATE— WESTERN DIVISION.
CONIENTS.
GEOGRAniiCAL Outline, 103— Climate of Western Division, 10-4 — fJeo-
graphical Outline of Western Division, 105 — Distances of Shore
Line of Puget Sound, 107 — Harbours, 108 — Description of Agricul-
tural Lands and Productions, 109 — Puyallup Valley, 111 — Snoho-
mish \''alley, 1 1 1 — Quillehuto Valley , 1 1 1 — G ray's Harbou r, 1 12 — Sat-
sop Valley, 112— Cheluilis Valley, 112— Shoalwater Bay, 113— Cow-
litz River and Valley, 113 — Newaukum River, 11 •! — Condition of
the Road.s, 114 — Timl)er Lands Secured by Speculators, 115 — Price
of Land, 1 15 — Methods of Clearing Land and Cost, 1 15 — Blowing up
Trees, IIG — Description of Game, 110- Of Fish, 117 —Trout Fishing,
and Sliooting, 118 — Cost of Living, 118 — Certainty of Crops, 118
— The Rainy Season, 118.
The State of Washington — formerly Washington Terri-
tory — is bounded on the north by British Columbia, on
the east by Idaho, on the south by Oregon, and on the
west by the Pacific Ocean. Its area is 69,994 square
miles, of which 3,114 are water, leaving 66,880 square
miles of land surface, of Avhich it is estimated that
20,000,000 acres are in timber, 5,000,000 acres in rich
alluvial lands, and 10,000,000 acres in prairie and plains.
The Cascade Range of mountains, extending from north
to south, divides the State into two sections, of which
the eastern is much the larger. During the winter
communication across this range ij impracticable, except
by railway, owing to heavy snow in the passes. The
Olympic Range lies along the coast between Puget
]04 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Ro^ir fl and the Pacific. In common with Britisli Columbia,
this }K)rtion of Washington, with its magnificent scenery
and dehghtful climate, is most attractive for the tourist
and for the settlor. Washington is divided into the
Western, Central and Eastern regions, having different
climates.
Western Washington. — The climate is excellent. The
mean tem])orature at Fort Steilcoom for four years was
as follows : — January, 38" 1' ; Fehruory, 40° 1' ; March,
41° 8'; April, 48° G'; May, 50° C; June, Gl° 1'; July, 64°
9'; Aunust, 04°; September, 50° 9'; October, 52° 6';
November, 40° 2' ; December, 38° 3' ; for tlie year, 50°
8' ; three winter months, 39'. Rainfall for tlie six
months regarded as the rainy season : — October, G"93
inches; November, 18'41 incites; December, 4*42 inches;
January, 8'09 inches ; February, 7"57 inches ; March,
2"89 inches ; total, 48'91 inches. In some years the
annual rainfall is as nmcli as GO inches or more at some
points on tlie coast. Notwitlistanding the excessive
rainfall, the climate is extremely healtliy during the
winter season. Children arc not afflicted with catarrhal
affections as might be expected. The summer weather
is delightful.
Properly speaking, there are but two seasons, the dry
and the rainy. The grades of tempei'ature, and the
accompaniments which in other countries of the same
latitude ascribe the features and title to the four seasons,
spring, summer, autumn, and winter, are here obliterated,
or at least so dimly marked that the seasons impercept-
ibly run into each other, and lose their distinctive line
of division. It is not unusual for the three winter
months to be mild, without snow or ice, the grass grow-
WASHINGTON ST A TE— WESTERN DIVISION. 105
ing meanwhile. In February the weather may occur
mild and genial as May, to be succeeded in March or
April with the coldest weather of the season, which,
however, will only last a short time. In July and
August, days, in some portions of which the maximum
temperature will reach 90° or 100°, arc sometimes fol-
lowed by cold nights, occasionally accompanied by
heavy frosts.
The rainy season, proper, begins late in October, or
early in November, and may be said to continue till the
ensuing April. It frecpiently happens after the first
rains have commenced that weeks of fine weather occur.
Nights are always cool and refreshing. An average of
from seven to ten days of freezing weather may be
looked for with ccrtaintv, and feed and housing for
stock should always be provided, although it is not
generally the custom amongst improvident settlers.
The extreme mildness of the western portions of Oregon,
Washington, and Biitish Columbia, iirespectivc of lati-
tude, is produced by a thermal current called the
" Japanese," having its origin at the equator, near the
Philippines and the Malaccas, which sweeps northward
until forming two branches ; one moves on to Behring
Straits, and the other bends eastward along the Aleutian
Islands, and tlien southward along the coast of Sitka,
Oregon, and California. Tlie influence of this warm
current molifies the climate of the whole Pacific Coast,
and extends to tlie vallej^s of Montana, and the Calgarry
district in the North-West Territory of the Dominion of
Canada. From California, north along the coast, the
rainfall is increased the fartiier you go north.
Although winter work is considerably impeded by
io6 rilE BRITISH COLONIST.
the rain, people seem to get used to it, and, clad in
waterproof suits, pay no attention to weather. There
are many days on which the rain falls incessantly during
the twenty-four hours, but there are also many in which
the fall is light and intermittent, unaccompanied by
w^ind ; and it is never too cold for comfort. Reckless
exposure, and the almost universal custom of wearing
rubber boots does, in some instances, produce lung and
throat affections and rheumatism, but they are com-
paratively infrequent. North of the Columbia and
lower waters of the Cowlitz, there is little or no malaria
from swamps and marshes, and such epidemics as arise
from time to time, are to be attributed to the neglect of
sanitary precautions, which is a peculiar feature of
American towns and settlements.
Western Washington finds its synonym in the Puget
Sound country. It includes the Puget Sound basin, the
valley of the Chehalis, the basin of Shoalwater Bay, and
the country drained by the Lower Columbia and its
northern tributaries ; the principal of which is the Cow-
litz. Puget Sound is a deep inland sea, extending
nearly 200 square miles from the ocean, and having a
surface of about 2,000 square miles, and a shore line of
about 1,594 miles, indented with numerous bf ys, har-
bours, and inlets, each with its peculiar name, and con-
tains numerous islands, inhabited by farmers, lumber-
men, fishermen, and those engaged in quarrying lime
and building stone.
The beauty and safety of tliese waters are remarkable.
Not a shoal exists within the Straits of Juan de Fuca,
Admiralty Inlet, or Hood's Canal that can in any way
interrupt navigation.
WASHINGTON STA TE— WESTERN DIVISION. 107
Distances of the shore line of the Straits of Juan de
Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, Hood's Canal, etc. :
(1) Straits of Juan de Fuca, from Cape Flattery to Pt. Partridge —
Miles.
Pt. Wilson 161
(2) llosario Straits, Canal de Haro, Gulf of Georgia, etc. —
East Side Whidby's Island 79
West Side AVhidby's Island
Pt. Partridge to Deception Pass 14
M'Donough's Island 14
Main Shore, Pt. Gardiner to 49th parallel ... 128-5
Fidalgo Island ... 50
Allan's and Barrow's Islands ... 7'5
Guemo's Island 16"5
Cypress, Sinclair, Vendovia, and Jack's Islands... 26
Lumni and Eliza Islands ... ... 25
Lopez Island ... 34
Decatur Island ... ... ... ... ... 11
James' Island ... 4*5
Blakely Island ... 9"5
Frost Island ... 1"5
San Juan Island 40*0
Shaw's Island ... ... ... 13
Obstruction Island ... ... ... 2"7
Orcas Island ... 57
Jones' Island ... ... ... ... ... ... 3'8
Henry Island ... ... ... ... ... ... 5*8
Speeden Island ... 57
John's Island ... 4
Stuart Island ... ... 6
Waldon Island ... 8"5
Various small Islands ... ... 26
627
io8
THE BRITISH COLONIST.
(3^ Admiralty Iiilut commencing at line Pt. Partridge, Pt.
Wilson to Puget Sound —
Pt. Defiance to Possession Sound ..
Possession Sound to Pt. Partridge
Blake Island ...
Gig Harbour to Foulweather Bluff
Bainbridge Island ...
Port Ludlow to Pt. Wilson
Vashon Island ...
Miles.
07-5
34-5
4
1020
310
48-0
47
(4) Puget Sound commencing at lino joining Pt. Defiance and
Giji Harbour — embracinti all South —
Main Shore, East Side, Pt. Defiance to Olympia
Main Sli(jre, West Side, Gig Harbour to Olympia
Day's Island
Hope Island ...
Island ...
Horrow Island
Stretch
Anderson
M'Ncil
Kitson
Fox Island
Allshons Island ...
Miles.
490
IGS'O
1-3
1-3
10-5
3
4
15-5
10-4
3
11-5
2-5
(5) Hood's Canal
Total shore lino
280
192
1,594 miles.
BAYS AND HARBOURS.
Ncah Bay just outside Ca]ie Flattery. Anchorage is
good, but no protection from north-west winds. East of
Cape Flattery 25 miles, is Callam Bay. Port Angeles,
farther east, lies opposite Victoria, B.C. Good harbour
when in, but hard to leave without wind tide and
WASIIINGION ST. t TE— WESTERN DIVISION. 109
favourable circumstances. Port TownHend, U.S. Custom
Station and port of entry, is a good bay, good anchorage,
six miles long and three miles wide. Ports Ludlow,
Madison, Gamble, Blakey, Uwamisli or Elliot's Bay, are
small ports the sites of large saw-mills.
Seattle is the principal trading port of the Sound, and
next comes Tacoma on Commencement Bay. Belling-
ham Bay, on the east side, is shallow for a considerable
distance out from the shore, but a fair harbour.
There is no U.S. land, easily accessible or desirable for
agricultural purposes, unentered, adjacent to the sur-
roundini? shores of Puget Sound. The interior of the
country is exceedingly rougli, heavily timbered, and
what roads there are, very rough and in the rainy season
almost impassable. All available lands on the various
islands have long been occupied or owned. On the Lumni
and Nooksack llivers tlowing into Bellingham Bay, in
the N.W. corner of Wasliington, there is much excellent
agricultural and grazing lands. The town of Whatcove,
on the river of that name, situated three miles from
BelHngham Bay, has, in conjunction with all other towns
of any pretensions, and many without, indulged in what
is called " a boom," a curious Americanism for real
estate excitement. It is close to the British lino, and
has a fine water-power. The lumber resources of What-
cove country are great. The mineral deposits are iron
and coal, the latter not of a very good (piality, and gold
has been found on the headwaters of the Nooksack, but
not in paying quantities.
One thiid their area under cultivation will range from
40 to GO dollars per acre. Grasses of all kinds, peas,
hops, roots, oats, and vegetables of nearly all kinds,
110 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
yield abundantly, and tliore are excellent markets
on this coast owing to the rapid settlement of the
country. It is a little too far north on the coast for
wheat.
The Snohomish River empties into the Sound abreast
of the south end of Whidby's Island. Eighteen miles
from its mouth it divides into two confluent streams :
the north, called the Skywamish, and the south, the
Snoqualuire. On this river and its confluents there is
a large quantity of very rich land. The Skagit River
empties into the Sound near Fidalgo Island. (Lccouver
is the county seat of Skagit County.) It is navigable for
80 miles from its mouths, of which there are several,
forming a delta. There is a large body of exceedingly
rich land on this river ; oats yield 100 bushels to the acre
on the tide flats and delta lands reclaimed. These
lands are subject to overflow, and precautions must be
taken or serious loss may ensue.
The Snohomish and Snoqualuire Rivers are navigable
for steamers of lic^ht drauo-ht, to within a few miles of
the falls on the latter river. Beyond the falls are
several rich prairies of considerable extent.
The Dwamish River, with its two principal confluents,
the White and Green Rivers, has much valuable land in
its valleys ; it flows into Elliott's Bay, on which is
situated the city of Seattle (King's County).
The White River is of historic importance from being
the head quarters of a band of Indians, in the war of
1855-56. On October 28th, 1855, the whole settlement
was destro^^ed, and eleven persons horribly butchered.
The Dwamish and White Rivers are navigable for 30
miles, and the tide extends up 14 miles.
WASHINGTON ST A TE— WESTERN DIVISION. 1 1 1
Resources of King's County are mainly coal (the best
south of Vancouver Island), and lumber.
Seattle is a thrivini^ city, and the view from the
heights of the Olympic or Coast Range is magniticent.
The Puyalhip River, forming the valley of that name,
rises north of Mount Rainier. After receiving the Stuck
River it empties into Conunencement Bay. This is the
great hop-raising region of Washington, and the land, of
which there is a considerable quantity in the valleys of
these two rivers, is of good quality, and much of it of
the richest kind, being alluvial deposit. It is worth
100 dols. per acre, when cultivated, and the supply does
not nearly meet the demand. There is also considerable
prairie land in the vicinity. These lands yield heavy
crops of hops, wheat, barley, oats ; and roots and vege-
tables grow to enormous size.
The city of Tacoma, on Commencement Bay, is the
great rival of Seattle, and the capital of Pierce Country.
The surrounding country is gravelly, and of little value
for the farmer.
The Snohomish empties into the elbow of Hood's
Canal, 28 miles north of Olympia. The valley of this
river varies from one to three miles in width, and con-
tains a great quantity of very rich land. The following
yield is well attested ; potatoes, GOO bushels ; wheat,
40 bushels ; peas, GO bushels ; oat.s, 70 bushels ; timothy
ha}'-, 5 tons per acre.
In the vallevs of the Duno-eness and Elwha, there are
some fine agricultural lands. These streams rise in the
Coast Range, and empty into the Straits of Fuca.
Passing down the coast from Cape Flattery, 28 miles,
the mouth of the Quillehute River is reached. It varies
tl4 T//E BRITISH COLONIST.
in width from 50 to 200 yar.ls, and ^aves the name to a
variety of Kalnion as yet not found in any other locality.
They arc short, thick, and fat, and of delicious tlavour.
The Indians, whose tribal name is ascribed to this river,
are noted in the early history of this coast for their
hostility and barbarity to the whites.
The bottom lands are extensive, and well adapted to
. agriculture ; but the Indian population, although now
reduced to order, is an objectionable feature, and the
rainfall is excessive, especially at Cape Flattery. Going
south, Gray's Harbour, and the valley watered by the
Chehali?- and its tributaries, is one of the fertile regions
of Western Washington. Great activity in the develop-
ment of this district is now being displa3^ed. The
harbour is said to be equal to that of Boston, and is 15
miles north and south in greatest width, with an area of
about 150 square miles. The bay is surrounded by
mud flats, bare at low water. The valley of the Chehalis
varies in width from 15 to 50 miles. From tlie mouth
of the Satsop River through to Hood's Canal, closed in
by the Black Hills and the Coast Range, is a beautiful
open valley, 14 or 15 miles wide. Following the
Chehalis Valley to Chehalis, the capital of Lewis County,
the garden of the State is traversed. Land is rich and
very ])roductive, and high in price. The tide-flat lands
along the coast, and mouths of various streams, are
very productive of grass, and used for dairy farms. It
is too damp and misty for grain. In the Chehalis
Valley, a crop of wheat of 50 bushels per acre was
groAvn on land that had raised 25 crops ; and this with-
out any assistance to the soil beyond five years' summer
fallowing. Land of this quality, however, called
WASHLVGTO.V ST A TE— WESTERN DIV/S70X. 1 1 3
"beaver dam," or "alluvial" doixwit of fifi'eat depth, is
liniitod and worth tVoni 100 dollars per aero, and is now
beiiii^ purchaso<I for hop yards. Th(3 country, bounded
on the south by the Chehalis and its tributaries, on the
north by Olyinpia and Taconia, and extendini;* on both
sides of the Northern PaciKe Railroad to Oentralia,
nearly all of a gravelly formation, supporting a scant
herbage and, excepting on the banks of small streams,
where there are strips of alluvial soil, is comparatively
worthless for cultivation. It is, however, a very pretty
country.
Shoalwatcr Bay is one of the best harbours north of
San Francisco, and receives several rivers, the principal
being the Palux, Nasal, and Willop .h. Tiie bay is full
of shoals and flats, and at low tide half its area is bare ;
good but narrow channels run throughout its extent.
The valley of the Willopah, one of the oldest settlements
in the country, contains a considerable body of rich
bottom land of a layey nature, very productive of grass.
The Cowlitz River xises in the Cascade JMountains, be-
tween Mounts Rainier and St. Helens, runs west, then
south, and empties into the Columbia, al)Out 50 miles
from its mouth. It runs the whole length of Cowlitz
County and nearly the whole breadth of Lewis, through
good agricultural land, both prairie and bottom. At the
headwaters of this river and ^its several tributaries, chief
of which is the Tilton, is a com))aratively recently-
formed Colony of Americans. It is about 70 miles from
stations on the Northern Pacific Railroad.
The pick of the Government land is secured, but there
is land left in this region, most of which is unsui'veyed.
There have been some rough characters living in this
H
114 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
ronioto setfclciiKjnfc, an<l considuralile trouble may bo ox-
pcrii'iiced by tho suttlur, not of tliuir own order.
Toledo, the hca<l of «teanil)oat navination on the Cow-
litz, about 50 niik'S from its mouth in the Columl)ia
River, is on the edge of the Cowlitz prairie; a body of
some few thousand acres. Tliis is an old settlement, and
was the site of the old Red River settlement of Canadian
French, introduced in 1842, under the auspices of the
Hudson's Bay Company.
A little north of the upper waters of tlio Cowlitz, is
the Newaukum River. Its cour.se is n(jrth and west, and
it empties into the Chehalis Hiver, near the town of tliat
name. It has two branches, uniting a little .north of the
Newaukum prairie, a small openin<Tf in the forest.
Ranging north, ])arallel with the Portland and Tacoma
branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad, there are several
small streams; and then the Dus Chutes River, which emp-
ties into Budds Inlet, the extreme head of Puget Sound,
ahout two miles from 01ymi)ia. Next, the Ni.squally River,
which rises south of Mount Rainier. There are prairies in
this vicinity called tlie Nisqually Plains, and at its mouth
is Fort Nisqually, an old Hudson's Bay post.
The whole countiy comprised within the boundories of
the Columbia in the south, the British line on the north,
the Cascade Mountains in the east, and the Pacific Ocean
and Puget Sound on the west, is, with the exceptions
of clearings and the small prairies mentioned, a vast
forest of, in some cases, gigantic timber ; witlji a dense
undergrowth. The roads are exceedingly rough in the
timber, and very muddy in the wet season, and late in
the spring. The timber is very valuable where facility
of transportation is obtained ; and there is a large area of
IVJSn/XCTON STA TR- U'ESlF.Ry PI VISION. 1 1 5
laii'l wliic'li will, one day, bo nvailuMo for cultivation.
The expense of clenrinf,', iiowevor, is so p^reat tiiat atten-
tion lias only been devoted to the "bottom lands." A
^reat portion of this reo;ion, back from the settlements
and nin^dng alon<^ the foot hills of the Cascades, isunsur-
veyed. The best portions, valuable ft)r agriculture and
tind)er, have lon<^ been secured by saw-mill com[)anies
and s|)ecidators, at a very low price.
Uncultivated land can be boa,i,dit from 10 to 20
dollars per acre ; or, by j^oinji- far back in a lough country,
some pieces of desirable Government land may be found ;
but it is fast bein^ taken up, as railways will soon in-
tersect this ref^ion. The methods of chairing pursued
areas follows: — In the case of bottt/.i lands covered
with a small undergrowth of vine, maple, and alder, with
no large tindjer, the brush is cut with a hook, like a bill-
hook on a handle ; this is laid in r(»ws systematically
(June and July is the best time); and, when dry, set on
tire. On the ashes, when the autumn rains are at hand,
timothy grass seed is sown, and next j'^ear a good crop of
grass can be cut with a scythe, the stumps of the cut
undergrowth remaining about eight inches high. The
cost of this " slashing," as it is called, is about five dollars
per acre, uidess there are any larger sized trees to be
<lealt with. In some instances the hay made will pay for
the " slashing." The piece of land thus treated, and
fenced, is either " grubbed," roots dug and pulled out
with oxen, or used for pasture until they rot and can be
easily pulled out ; which occurs in two or three years.
If done by contract, the cost of cutting, burning, and
grubbing, will range from 12 to 20 dols. per acre, on
land of this description. On bottom land covered b
Ii6 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
heavy timber as well as l)ru.sli, the latter is treated as
before mentioned, and the timber cut down ; and, if it
cannot be sold for lumber, buint. The largest trees
can be readily burnt, and divided into lengths, by boring
two auger holes at right angles, and dropping some
lighted coals of green vine maple into the vertical hole.
Cedar is cut into rails and other material, for use. The
huge stumps are usually left in, and grass seed is sown
as before, or they can be blasted with dynamite. The
expense of this method is great, according to their size
and the time taken ; it will vary from 80 dols. to 100
dols. per acre. In most cases it is cheaper to purchase
land already cleared, than to attempt clearing heavily
timbered land, unless for the purpose of selling the
timber. The process of blowing up giant trees and
stumps is as follows : — A hole is made under the main
roots of the stump with a crow-bar, and into this is first
put half a cartridge of dynamite (No. 2), with a short
fuse attached. The explosion of this makes a cavity
for the main charge, well under the base of the tree.
This chamber is cliarged with five or six pounds of
Judson powder — more or less, according to the size of
the tree — in a linen bag, into which is inserted a cartridge
of dynamite with a long fuze. The charge is placed well
under the tree, and thoroughly tamped, and the hole filled
up. When exploded, the whole tree and the stump will
be lifted and shattered ; and it is afterwards burnt.
There is a great variety of game in Washington, viz. :
Grizzly bear (scarce), cinnamon bear, brown bear (the
Alaskan variety), black bear, congar (Felis cocolor),
wapiti (cervus canadensis), black-tailed deer, mule deer
(cervus macrotis), hybrid deer (cervus illehens) — a cross
WASHINGTON STA TE- WESIERN DIVISION. 1 17
between tlie black-tailed and mule deer, not classed —
mountain goat and caribou (scarce). There are three
varieties of wolves : black, grey, and the small prairie
wolt' (coyote). Prairie fox, grey fox, red fox, fisher,
martin, beaver, ermine, sea otter, muskrat, and skunk are
the small fur-bearing animals.
Of small game the following varieties exist : — Dusky
grouse, sooty grouse, Richardson's grouse, Franklin's
grouse, gray-rutled grouse, Oregon-rutied grouse, sharp-
tailed grouse, sage cock, American quail (introduced),
mountain (|uail. Californian (crested) (juail (intro-
duced), Mongolian pheasant (introduced)^ whistling
swan, trumpeter swan, ducks and geese in great
variety, and the Wilson snipe.
The most important varieties of fish are salmon, trout,
halibut, herring, rock cod, smelts, and black cod
(taken off Cape Flattery in limited numbers). Salmon
abound everywhere, but are fished for only with net and
spear. They can, however, be taken with bait in the
harbours and in the rivers. Trout are of two kinds, the
brook and the sea trout, which follow and precede the
annual runs of salmon. They take the fly freely when
not feeding on salmon roe, with which they are caught
in great numbers. They range from half to two pounds
weight usually.
Smelt in immense numbers run up the large rivers
above tideway, in April, and can be taken up in small
dip-nets. At Shoalwater Bay, and along the coast, there
are numbers of flat fish (flounders of good (juality), crabs,
clams, and oyst-ers, which are, however, very small,
though of good flavour. There arc many other varieties
of fish along the coast.
11 S THE BRITISH COLONIS'f,
The best rivei's for trout fishing are the CowUtz and
its tributaries (upper waters) ; Newaukum, and tribu-
taries of Chehalis ; White River and Black River, its
tributary ; and various streams and lakes in Whatcove
County. For shooting, the head waters of the Cowlitz
and the foot-hills of cascades are the best regions.
Living is, at least, 25 per cent, cheaper than in the
Eastern States ; and in house-keeping the expenses of
the table need not exceed about two dollars per head
for adults, or about nine shillings per week.
Cereals of all kinds (except maize), grasses (except
alfalfa), fruits (except peaches and melons), vegetables,
and roots can be raised in abundance. Hops of the
finest quality are produced. The climate is, as shown,
excellent ; and frosts, owing to their being dissolved by
the mists of the morning before the sun takes effect,
seldom, if ever, do any damage. There has never been
an entire failure of crops in the memory of the oldest
settler.
The scenery along the coast of Puget Sound is grand,
and also views of the Cascades from various oi)enings in
the timber, and from the larger valleys.
The rainy season is tr3'ing to people not used to it ;
and it is impossible to go anywhere in the brush without
waterproof clothing, or drive or ride on the roads with-
out being covered with mud ; but people who have been
subjected to the blizzards and low temperatures of the
east, are taking to all these drawbacks very kindly.
The country is fast filling up with a good class of people
from the east, and there are some fair schools at Tacoma
and Olympia.
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON.
• CONTENTS.
Climate of Central Division, 119 — Temperature, 120— Klikitat Val-
ley, 121— Methow River, 121— Okanagan River, 121— Chelan
River anil Lake, 121 — Climate of Eastern Division, 122 -Colvillo
Valley, 122— >Sla\vtchu.s Valley, 12.3— .Spokane River, 12.*}— Val-
ley of the Walla- Walla, 123— Whitman County, 121— Ai^solin
County, 124 — Douglass County, 12-4 — Ellensburgh, 12.5 — Stephen's
County, 12.5— Columbia County, 12.5— Natural Irrigation in
the Waila- Walla ^'alley, 125 — Snake and CVvur d'Alcne Rivers,
126-C(L'ur d'Alcnc Lake and its Fish, 120— The Kooskoos-
kia and Palous Valleys, 120— Canir d'Alene Mountains, 126 —
Necessity of Irrigation, 127 — 'J'he (ireat Rend, 12" — Northern
Pacific Lands, 127 — The Stock Range, 127 — Severe Snowstorm of
1890, 128— Government Land OlPices, 128- Cost of Camp Outfit,
128— Game, 129 -Fish, 130— Hop Cultivation, 130— Labourers'
Wages, 131 — House Rent, 131 — Railroad Routes, 131— Covernment
Road across the Cascades, 131— Roads from Walla- Walla, 132 —
Distances on Columbia River, 132 — Chinese Labour, 133 — 111-
Treatment of Chinamen, 133 — A Court of Justice, 135 — The Ar-
kansas Judge and the Englishman, 130.
Central Washington. — The climate is dry, bracing,
and healthy. The rainfall is scanty, and in many parts
insufficient for a<:,a'icultural purposes. There is a great
variation between the temperature at sunrise and mid-
day. A fire during the nights of sunmier, or early in the
morning, would be comfortable in m;iny paits. Occasion-
ally there is a severe winter and heavy snowfall ; but
the warm wind from the " Japanese " current, called the
" Chinook," comes to the rescue, and rapidly dissolves it.
I20 71IE BRITISH COLONIST.
There are, however, winters in which a lar^e number of
stock has perished from want of provision. From a
reliable source the following temperatures are given : —
Walla-Walla, latitude, 46° 03'; altitude, 1,896 feet;
spring, 51° 9'; summer, 73° 1'; autumn, 53° 6'; winter,
34° 1' ; year, 53° 2' (mean). Dalles, latitude, 45° 36' ;
altitude, 300 feet ; spring, 53° ; summer, 70° 4' ; autumn,
52° 2' ; winter, 35° G ; year, 52° 8'. Lapwai, Clearwater
Valley, latitude, 46° 27'; altitude, 1,000 feet; spring,
51°; summer, 70° 3'; autumn, 51° 2'; winter, 36° D';
year, 52° 4'. Of these the mean represents the climate
of the great plains, and of the valleys connected with it
up to latitude 49°.
The Yakima River rises in the vicinity of the passes
of til e Cascade Mountains, latitude, 47° 15', from several
large and beautiful lakes; course, S.E., 160 miles, to its
confluen'^e with the Columbia, in latitude 48° 05'. For
25 miles down the river the valley is from one-half to
a mile wide ; it then widens out into the Ketelas Plain,
10 or 15 miles wide ; the river there being about 90 feet
wide, three deep, and very rapid.
On the several tributaries of the Yakima, cspeciall}''
on its upper waters, and in the valley of Yakima itself,
there is much rich land. There is some desert and saf^e
brush land. Some portion of this part is wooded, but it
is 70 miles up the main Yakima before you reach build-
ing pine; but, when the Pisquonee or Wenachee is reached,
the wooded region extends to the Columbia. All this
region is included in Yakima County, viz., valleys of
Moxa, Kounowoch, Alitanum, Natches, Cooveetchie,
Wenas, and Selah.
Irrigation is necessary, except in some low bottom
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. 121
lands ; rain and snowfall is very light, but the latter is
sometimes very heavy. All the best part is taken up
and settled.
The Dalles, a narrow place in the Columbia River,
where the channel has been worn out of the rocks, is
about 10 miles above the mouth of the Klikitat River.
This valley furnishes the route of communication with
the main Yakima Valley, course generally north ; and
contains some good farming land. There is a nice settle-
ment on the Klikitat Prairie, but this is a rough country,
more suitable for stock.
Goldendale is the capital of Klikitat County, The
Methow River rises, by several sources, in the mountains
north-west of Fort Okanagan, and, running soutlierly,
empties into the Columbia ; latitude 48". On its upper
part there is a fine wide valley, but this narrows to a
mile 10 miles above its mouth. Choice situations all
owned.
The Okanaofan, risinc^ in a long series of lakes north
of the 49th parallel, runs nearly south 70 miles within
the State, and joins the Columbia eight miles above the
Methow. It expands into several marshy lakes on its
course, and is generally slow and deep. Its valley is
fine and hills well grassed, wooded, and arable. Irriga-
tion is required, and all the best portions secured. Above
the forks of this river the country is very gravelly and
poor.
The Chelan River empties 17 miles below the mouth
of the Methow River. Three miles up from its source
the Chelan Lake is reached. This lake is about 33 miles
long, and heads in the main chain of the Cascades, near
the liead waters of the Methow. There is very little
til THE BRITISH COLONIST.
land snitaLIo for cultivation, and it I'equires irrigation.
Good stock country, but occupied.
" Eastern Washin<Tton" is divided from Western Wash-
ington by the Columbia River, which bounds it on the
west. The climate is excellent, dry, and bracing; and,
while the temperature falls considerably below zero
during the winters, and there are often heavy snow-falls,
the winter season is short, and subject to the influence
of the " Chinook " wind. That portion of the eastern
division approaching and bordering the British line is
subject to summer frosts, and heavier snow-falls. Dur-
ing the summer there are days on which the temperature
will rise to 100", or even more in the valley of the
Columbia ; but the nights are cool, and there is nearly
always a breeze, and no sense of lassitude is ever ex-
perienced from it. At the town of Walla- Walla
(population 3000), and in other towns on the Columbia
River, there is "malaria" in the dry season, in the
autumn usually, producing ague and bilious fever.
There are very high winds in this region — the warm, or
" Chinook," wind will in a few hours evaporate a
heavy fall of snow ; but at other times considerable
annoyance is often experienced from dust, and the
operations in the hay fields impeded by their vio-
lence. There are no blizzards or violent storms — excep-
tional.
The Colville Valley derives its name from the Hudson's
Bay Company's fort of that name, near the bank of the
Columbia, in lat. 48° 37'. In the immediate vicinity of
the fort the soil is sandy. Colville Valley, 50 miles long
and three wide, has a large quantity of good land, as
usual, settled, owned, or held by speculators. There are
CENTI^AL AA'D EASTERN WASHINGTON. lij
line streams and timber lian<ly. Gold has been found
in all this rei^ion.
A fine valley lies along tlie Slawtehus for 85 miles,
varying from one to tliree miles in width. The soil of
this valley is generally good. It is boggy and marshy
in placers, and a good deal of it under water in the winter
time ; and these wet places are particularly valuable for
hay land in the summer, and already secured. <►
Following up this valley, and down that of the
Chemakane, at a distance of about 58 miles from Fort
Colville, the Spokane River is reached. The Spokane
emptios into the Columbia just below the 4Sth parallel.
Spokane Falls — the name of the city on this river — has
a splendid water power, and is destined to be one of the
most important cities in the State. li is in the centre
of a tine wheat country", and the rich mining districts of
Cci'ur d'Alene. The Spokane plateau embraces all the
country included within the limits of the Cteur d'Alene
Mountains, the Saplin, Columbia, and Spokane Rivers.
It has an undulating stratum of basalt, which is covered
with deposits of earth, sand, and gravel. Nearly the
whole of this district is unfit for cultivation.
The valleys of the Spokane and Coeur d'Alene are, in
places, well adapted for settlement, and well supplied
with wood and water.
The valley of the Walla-Walla, or Nez Perce, is of
surpassing fertility. A peculiarity of the innumerable
streams that How into the Walla- Walla River is that
they spread themselves in almost every direction — not
only in channels, but over and on top of the surface,
constituting an admirable system of self-distributing
natural irrigants. To this feature the valley owes much
124 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
for its remarkable fertility and produciii*,^ power. The
main streams are skirted by alder, eottonwood, and
willow, the only wood. Distant a 'i'^^w miles, however,
the Blue Mountains are covered with heavy timber.
This is an old settlement, and land and farms are high
in price.
Whitman County is bounded on the north by Spokane
C(nmty, on the east by the eastern boundary of the State,
and on the south by the Snake River. It contains an
area of 1900 square niiles. General character of the
county is heavy, rolling land, free from timber. Tiiere
are still some unoccupied and cheap lands in this county >
but they will soon be taken. In the neighbourhoods of
Colfax (the county seat), Endicott, and esjiecially Farm-
ington, some fine lands are to be found, but must be
purchased of railroad companies or private parties. This
is a fine grazing country, and eagerly sought after.
Assolin County is bounded on the north and east by
the Quake River ; and on the south by the south
boundary of the State. It has an area of GOO square
miles, of which about one-third is mountainous, and two-
thirds rolling agricultural lands. It is a comparatively
new section, without railways, but will soon have them.
There is an opportunity at present to secure cheap
land.
Douglass County, bounded on the south and west by
the Columbia River, and on the east by Lincoln and
Adams Counties, contains about 4,000 square miles.
This is a bunch-grass stock country, subject to summer
frosts, and deep snow in winter. A very fine stock
range, but requires ample provision for winter. Lincoln
County, on the west of Douglass, contains about 2,200,
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. 125
square miles. This forms the principal portion of the Big
Bend Country. The Northern Paeitic Railroad passes
through the south-cast corner of it. Sprague, the county
seat, is a town of 1,500 inhabitants. There are vacant
Government lands here, and lots of railroad lands, from
3 dols. 50 c. to C dols. per acre. No timbei , and scarcity
of water, requiring very deep wells. Much of the land is
of very poor quality, and it is a desolate and un-
attractive region.
Kittilas Count}^ EUensburgh, is the capital, on the
Northern Pacific Railway. Irrigation necessary. Of
an area of 8,000 square miles, not one-sixth is fit for
general farming, and of that most is of very poor
quality. Iron, coal, and gold deposits in the mountains.
The valley of the Kittilas contains what good land there
is.
Stephen's County occupies the whole of the northern
part of Eastern Washington, and contains 15,000 square
miles. The Okanagan, or Salmon River district, contains
mineral deposits of gold and silver. This is a rough,
but fine stock country in summer, but on the more
elevated portions there are heavy snows, and there are
also summer frosts.
Columbia Count}', Dayton the capital. There is some
fine land under cultivation here, and good transportation
facilities by the Snake River steamers, and Oregon River
and Navigation Company's Railroad. Returning to the
Walla- Walla district. Mill Creek, on which this town is
situated, must be noticed. This creek spreads itself out
laterally, watering an extensive surface, and then con-
verging into one channel, empties into the Walla- Walla
River. The valleys of all these rivers and creeks, which
126 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
is an American namo for a brook or stream considered
less than a river, contain very rich land. Also the table-
lands and surrounding hills consist of good soil, yielding
abundant pasturage. A great number of cool springs
burst out of the sides of the hills, some of them of con-
siderable volume, sufficient for water powers. The
Snake River, having formed the east boundary of the
State of Washington from the 4Gth parallel to the mouth
of the Clearwater, crosses the entire width of Eastern
Washington, and Hows into the Columbia, nine miles
north of the mouth of the Walla- Walla. The Cceur
d'Alene River empties into the Spokane, and has some
fine agricultural and grazing land. Its source, the Coeur
d'Alene Lake, is a splendid sheet of water, about thirty
miles in length, and from two to ten in width. This
lake is full of trout, some of immense size ; one, two, and
three pounders being common. Nine pounds is the
heaviest reported as caught with hook and line, but fish
of immense size have been seen. The trout are of many
varieties, from the Pacific Coast salmo-frontinalis to the
large salmon trout. In the warm season, the trout
frequent the mouths of the cold mountain streams run-
uino; into the lake, and immense catches could be made,
but the use of brutal methods of destruction, such as
dynamite, &c., is rapidly decreasing the number of fish
in all waters easily accessible by settlers. On the
Kooskooskia and Palous Rivers, there is some fine land ;
and such is the climate in some of these valleys" that the
grass has been found ])erfectly green, peas up, and flowers
in blossom in December. Several of the tributaries
flowing into the lake afford fine land.
The Ctxjur d'Alene Mountains are a mass of limestone,
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. 127
aiul most of the valleys on its western slope contain
o;oo(l land ; and the entire region east of the Columbia
atlbrds good pasturage. The excitement attending the
development of the rich silver mines of the Cceur
d'Aleno district, has long ago caused all available
agricultural lands in this part of the State to be secured.
The lowlands of Westein Washington, and the Cascade
Mountains, arrest almost all the ju'ccipitation in the
form of rain and snow ; the fall of the latter being very
heavy in the Cascades. Central and Eastern Washington
are very s[)aringly supplied with rain, and irrigation is
recjuired on all table and bench lands. On the rich
alluvial lands, already alluded to, especially where
there is a natural irrigation produced by spreading
streams, or from the storage of moisture in the deep
s )il, artificial irrigation is not necessary. In the
district noted as the " Great Bend," wheat has been
grown with little or no rain, but farming will not be
successful until some means of irrigation be found. It
is so dry that oats are grown for hay, as grass, such
as timothy, cannot be raised. The Northern Pacific
Railroad has an immense body of land throughout this
part of Washington. The best of it is sold, much of it
is worthless, and of the rest, without irrigation it will
not yield a crop, except in a very exceptional year.
North of lat. 49°, except on the coast, the rainfall may
be sai«l to be nil. As a stock country the whole of the
State is good. All through the densely timbered western
section, cattle and horses find good feed, principally on
the succulent shoots of the vine- maple, thimble-berry (a
variety of raspberry) and other shrubs ; and with
provision for a month or six weeks will get along well
r 2^ THE BRITISH COL ON IS T.
in limited numbers. The open i^n-a/ing country in the
central and eastern portions has been overstocked, and
the difficulty of providin^^ hay is great in the more
northern part. Douo-lass County is a fine bunch-grass
region, but all hay lands arc taken up.
In the month of January, 181)0, a snow-storm of un-
precedented severity occurred in Eastern Washington
and Oregon. Reports from the Colville Reservation, in
the former, state that cattle are dying by hundi'eds from
starvation ; the snow being over two feet deep on a level,
with immense drifts. One cattle owner has lost 2000,
and others estimate that they will lose half their stock.
In Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico great mortal-
ity amongst sheep and cattle is reported. It will thus
be seen that the profits of years can be swept away by
one unusually severe winter. As regards Washington
and Oregon, the snow will soon be removed by the warm
wind, but it has already lasted long enough to starve
stock unprovided with food. Government land offices
are situated at Olympia and Tacoma, for the western
division, andat North Yakima, Walla- Walla and Spokane
Falls for the eastern division of Washington. The best
and most economical way to inspect the country, and to
select land, is to purchase a waggon and horses, with a
general camp outfit. In event of a settlement being
made the team will be required, and if not, where judg-
ment is used in the purchase, little will be lost in the
sale, and less than travelling expenses otherwise would
be. The expenses of an outfit for this purpose will bo
about as follows —
Duls.
Waggon (farm), 2| m axle 8.5 "OO
2Hurse3 25000
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON, 129
Dola.
HumesB 3000
Tont 2500
Axes Riul cooking utensils 10 00
Hobbles for horses, lined inside (I'ortliind
prices) 1 dol. 25 c. per pjiir, 2'50
Provision for two men, per month, ... lO'OO
Sundries 1000
Dols. 428 50
With tills outfit the prospectors can proceed to any
portion of the Pacific Coast \)y the well-travelled roads
they will find, excepting the coast region of Oregon and
Washington, in which more difliculty will be experienced
in getting about. If the journey be connnenced in April,
.sufficient grass will be obtained for the horses, which can
be hobbled and turned loose to graze.
The principal game to be found in Eastern W^ashing-
t(jn are : deer, bear, panther, rutfed and sharp-tailed
grouse, the sage-grouse, and a variety of ducks and geese
on the lakes and streams in the spring and autunni. The
game is much the same in Central Washington, except-
ing sage, and sharp-tailed grouse, and substituting the
willow-grouse. East of the Cascades the true cinnamon
bear is found, and west, the brown, the Alaskan, and the
black bear. Hounds are generally used for hunting deer
and bears, and dogs to bark and " tree " the ruffed-
grouse, wdiich is often shot with a rifle. 'J'here is good
hunting on the upper waters of the Okanagan and Methow
Jlivers, and especially on that of the Skagit Kiver, which
is, however, a very rough country, and can only be entered
l)y pack animals.
I
130 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
AtClieLiu Lake tliere used to be good Imntin^, Imt the
large game is scarce now The ruffed-grouse is plenti-
ful, and the lake is full of large trout, which are, however,
not of very good flavour, Salmon and trout run up the
Cokunbia and its tributaries, and nearly all mountain
streams are full of fish, except in the vicinity of mining
camps.
In Western Washington the California (crested) quail
is getting very numerous. They are difHcult to bag, for
they run before the dogs, and get up out of range. Tiic
mountain quail is found in the foot-hills of tlie Cascades,
and the American quail has been introduced on Whidby
Island. Tliere is some excellent hunting on the head
waters of the Cowlitz, and on _ ther streams heading in
the Cascades. Ducks and geese abouiitl on the bays and
estuaries in the winter ; but are fishy in flavour, requir-
ing skinning and parboiling to be eatable.
The State of Washington is the finest hop region in
the States, and much attention has been given to this in-
dustry of late years.
Fortunes have been made by hop-raising, but the busi-
ness has been rather overdone, and the prices lately
obtained are not satisfactory. The valleys of the Chelialis,
Cowlitz, and all other streams having alluvial soil, are
admirably suited for hop culture. Two thousand pounds
to the acre of a fine (piality can be raised, and at a cost
of about eight cents per lb., against that of 12 cents in
New York State. The market price has varied from 15
cents to 1 dol. per lb.
Where failures have occurred, they have been princi-
pally in consequence of inexperience and general bad
management, in picking and curing.
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. 131
Farm liil)ourer,s' waL^es vary from 15 tluls. per month,
with board, by tlie year, to 20 dols. One dollar a day,
with board, or 1 dol. 50c., without, for short engage-
ments, or more in harvest time. Servant girls called
'' helps," 3 dols. to 5 dols. per week, with board ;
the latter rate, only in cities. Hop-pickers 1 dol.
per box. The cost of hiring a buggy and two horses is
5 dols. per clay ; saddle horses, 1 dol. ; boarding for
a horse, 75 cents per day. House rents from ten
to thirty dollars for ordinary frame houses, per month.
" Routes " to Washington are, for the western division,
Canadian Pacific to Seattle, or Tacoma ; northern,
Pacific to Seattle, Tacoma ; the Cowlitz and Chehalis
Valleys {via " Portland and Tacoma division "), Toledo ;
on Cowlitz, via steamboat from Portland. Steamboats
run to all jjarts of the Sound from Vancouver, B.C.,
Seattle, Tacoma and Olympia. Routes for eastern and
central divisions: Spokane Falls, Walla- Walla, Spraguc,
EUensburgh, for Okanagan district ; Yakima, Farining-
ton, Palous and Cceur d'Alene districts {v'ui Wallula),
by the Northern Pacific. Also, Union Pacific, via Port-
land, for the western, and Wallula for the eastern divi-
sions of Washington.
The best towns or cities for out-fitting are, for
Western Washington, Portland, Tacoma, and Seattle ;
and Chehalis, for Chehalis district. For the eastern and
central divisions: Spokane Falls, Walla- Walla, Farm-
ington, Spraguc, EUensburgh, and Yakima. There is a
Government road from Fort Steilacoom to Wallula, in
Walla- Walla County, via Nachess Pass of the Cascades.
For the benefit of those who may wish to travel this
way, the following distances are given as a guide to
132
THE BklTISH COLOMlSr.
halting places. It must be stated, however,
of the Cascades, this is impassable in winter
To Puyallup River, ...
First crossing Wliito River,
Last Prairie on White River,
Second crossing, ,,
Sixth crossing, ,,
LaTete, ....
First crossing Green River,
Bare Prairie, ....
Last crossing of Green River, at western
base of mountain, . . -
First Prairie on summit, - - -.
Last Prairie on sunmiit,
First crossing of Nachess River, -
Crossing of Papattsally,
Mouth of Bumping,
Last crossing of Nachess River, -
Wenass River, . - - .
Where road leaves Wenass Valley,
First crossing of Yakima River, -
First water after ,,
Second ,, ,,
Bracldsh Spring, - - - -
Great Bend of Yakima River,
Near mouth of Y^akima River,
Terminus of route.
iwever.
til at west
anter :-
—
aiiles.
Miles.
22J
22.\
'A
31§
G]
38
lU
49a-
5f
o5i
32
59}
1|
m
n
m
10}
73J
3^
77,^
2J
791
5.1
842
101
951
41
99.1
11^
411
10
1211
IG
1371
4
141}
18J
1591
ni
1G7^
102
1832
181
202
151
217}
171
234.V
From Toledo, on the Cowlitz River, to Olympia or
Tacoina, it is about 57 miles. From Walla-Walla, 30
miles from Wallula, roads diverge in all directions ;
Walla- Walla to Fisherville, British Columbia, 417 miles;
from Tacoma to Ellensburgh, about 150 miles; from
Tacoma to Lake Chelan, about 200 miles. Distances on
the Columbia River arc : — From the Cascades to Great
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. 133
Dalles, 50 miles ; Dalles to Priests' Rapids, 185 miles ;
Priests' Rapids to Colville, 100 miles ; Fort Colville into
British Columbia (by steamer), 250 miles ; EUensburgh
to Spokane Falls, 280 miles.
Farmers on the Pacific Coast are now complaining of
the difficulty of obtaining labour at a reasonable price.
The Chinese havino' to a e-reat extent been driven off
the North Pacific, tlie few that remain have, in imitation
of white labourers, inci'eased their rates for work; and
timbered land, that at one time they would have con-
tracted to clear for 25 dols. an acre, they now ask more
than double the amount for, and firewood, formerly cut
at 80 cents a cord, they now demand 1 dol. 50 c. for.
The "Chinese Exclusion Act" has been inimical to the
interests of farmers, fruit growers, and other industries
throughout the Pacific Coast. The treatment of these
inoffensive, industrious people has been disgraceful to
the country ; and although the law was invoked for
their protection, it did not, nor does it now, protect them
from secret intimidation. At Tacoma, the ringleaders
of the cowardly outrages perpetrated, were arrested and
put under " bonds " to appear for trial, seemingly for
" form's sake," as they were not brought to trial. Thou-
sands of acres of forest and brush-land now under culti-
vation would be in their primitive condition but for
the Chinese, for they do a class of wOi'k, such as grubbing
brush, which is tiresome, that white men cannot easily
be got to do. In the construction of railroads they have
been of the greatest • assistance to the country. As
domestic servants they have been of gj-eat service. A
manufacturer, asked why he employed Chinese instead
of white men, replied, that he had tried both, and found
134 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
that ])is white employees were always grumbling and
getting drunk, whereas the Chinamen were sober, in-
dustrious, and reliable. In the fruit regions (especial!}^
in California), their services are necessary, and complaints
have been made of serious embarrassment in consequence
of a diminished supply of labour. In the hop-fields of
Washington they are now dependent on the " Indians "
for picking; and after driving out the Chinamen, on the
" professed principle " of not wanting to employ "alien "
labour, they applied for Indians from British Columbia
to assist them.
The persecutors of the Chinese are, for the most part,
composed of the lowest class of the population, but the}''
use their voting power to influence others, and a candi-
date for office must " trim his sails " accordingly, and
newspapers make up violent editorial denunciations of
the evils of Chinese labour, to suit the palates of their
subscribers.
It was noticed that after the Pacific division of the
Canadian Pacific was completed, and the men paid off',
drunkenness and riotinof ensued amons'st the white
labourers as usual, but the Chinamen dispersed in a
sober and orderly way. It is difficult for a Ciiinaman
to get justice in any way in the Courts, and in the small
" County Courts " it not infrequently happens that de-
cisions, in other cases, are outrageously at variance with
the evidence, as the folio sving incident will show. The
defendants in this suit had contracted witli a saw-mill
proprietor for a quantity of lumber of a certain gi-ade.
A portion of this was of inferior quality, and the tlefen-
dants, aliens, refused to receive it, and suit was then
brought for the amount before a "Justice of the Peace."
CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. 135
The case occurred in a small town in " Washington
Territory," and the defendants retained as counsel the
" Probate Judge " of the county. The Court was held
in a small school-room, and this was the only case for
trial at the time. On the opening of the " Court," the
defendants' counsel informed the Justice that he had
been up late the night before and was not prepared for
the case and bogged time to look over his brief, which
was granted, the audience in tlie meantime amusing
themselves by chewing tobacco and whittling the
benches. It afterwards appeared that the defendants'
counsel was /een drunk at a saloon about 12 p.m. tlie
previous night. Tlie defendants' principal witnesses
were two carpenters of undoubted respectability, while
those of the plaintiff were some men who had " never
seen " the rejected lumber. The defendants' counsel
having arranged his papers, proceedings commenced.
The plaintiff's witnesses were heard without interrup-
tion and subjected only to a cross-examination tending
to strengthen the argument for the plaintiff; but the
witnesses for the defendants, whose testimony was clear
and emphatic, that the lumber in question was not up
to contract, were subjected to continual objections, which
were sustained by the Court. The arguments on botli
sides ended, the defendants' counsel prepared himself for
a "mock" supreme effort in the cause of his clients. He
first carefully removed his coat and folded it up, and
advanced close to the Justice with raised arm and
clenched fist, flourished sometimes within a foot of the
former's nose. The Justice with a smile that was
"child-like and bland," listened to an argument by turns
pseudo-pathetic, and as the roaring of a bull, accom-
136 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
panied by a violent flourish of the fist. The farce ended
by the Justice giving a decision in favour of the plain-
titt', with costs. . Tlie defendants' witnesses, two old
settlers and most respectable formers, remarked to them,
" We knew how this case would go before we had been
five minutes in Court." " How could you know ? "
*' Oh ! the plaintiff is not worth a cent the law can get
hold of, and there are already lots of judgments out
against him. He would not pay the costs if he lost the
case, and the only chance the Court has of getting its
costs, is to give a verdict against you."
The only remedy for these outrages is an appeal to a
District Court presided over by a Judge of known pro-
bity. The gross injustice which often marks the rulings
of " Justices of the Peace," who, mostly ignorant and
sometimes unprincipled men, seek the ofiice for what
they can make out of it, is the greatest drawback to a
residence in the country. An amusing story is told by
Judge . The District Court being in session in a
town in Washington, the hotels were crowded, and next
to the Judge's room, sei^aratod only by a thin wall, was
one occupied by tAvo men, the one an ex-Judge from
Arkansas, and the other an Englishman. The ex-Judi^e
was loquacious, and the Englishman reticent and some-
what grumpy. After enumerating many of the great
advantages the Englishman would enjoy in this country'',
the Judge said, " I guess it would be a long time before
you would have the honour of sleeping in the same bed
with a Judge in your country." " Yes,'' said his com-
panion, " but it would be a d — long time before they
would make such a man as you a ' Judge ' in my
coun try ! "
OREGON.
CONTENTS.
Tub Coast Region, its Valleys and Resources, 138 — The Cascade Range,
140-Willaniette Valley, 141— Variety of Soil, 141— Donation Act,
142 -Mortgages, 142— Price of Farms, 142— Fertility, 142— Fruit,
143 — Government Land, 143--Umpqua Valley, 144 -Rogue River
Valley, 144— Malaria, 147— Siieep, 147— The Foot-Hill Region,
148— Markets, 14S— Winter Weather, US—Yaquina Bay, 149—
Oregon Pacific Railway Company, 140 — Board of Immigration, 149
— Siiooting and Fishing, 149 — Prices of Lands, 150 -Angora Goats,
lol— Climate of Eastern Oregon, Geological Features, 151 — De-
struction of Pasturage by Sheep, lo3 — Fertility of Soil, 154— Kla-
math County, 154 — Klamath Lake, 154 — Bunch Grass, 154 — Des
Chutes River, 155 — John Day River, 155 — Powder River, 155 —
The Grande Ronde Valley, 155 — Scenery in the Grande Ronde,
155— Climate, 150 — Price of Land, 15G — Stock Range, 150 — Uma-
tilla County, 157 — Government Land, 157— Wallowa Lake, 157 —
Tlie jNlukletio Salmon, 157— Trout, 158— (iame, 159 -Cond)at be-
tween Wapiti and Wolves, 159 — English Sportsmen in America,
159— Destruction of Game, 100— Cost of Living, 100— House
Building, IGO — Prices of Stock and other Supplies, 101.
This State, bounded on the north by Wasliington, on
the east by Idaho Territory, on the west hy tlie Pacific
Ocean, and on the south by Nevada and Cahfornia, eon-
tains an area of 94,5G0 square miles. Traversed by the
Cascade, Coast, and Blue Mountains, and watered by the
tributaries of the Cohimbia, the Willamette River, and
numerous other fine streams, it presents many varieties
of soil, climate, and scenery.
138 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
There are many Enf]flish and Scotch settlers, and pro-
perty can be ac(|uired without taking the iron-clad oath
of allef^iance. Population, 250,000. The coast ref]jion
of Oren^on ranijfes the entire len^jth of the State, about
275 miles. It is a narrow stri[) of very rough, mountain-
ous and broken country, running north and south, and
bounded on the east by the Coast Range Mountains.
It comprises the counties of Clatsop, Tillamook, western
portions of Benton, Lane, and Douglass, Coss, and Curry.
The climate of this coast region is particularly healthy,
and there is no malaria. Its mean temperature is
wonderfully even, not varying more than about 10° to
15° the entire year; and water everywhere is abundant
and very pure. There is not a day in the hottest portion
of summer unpleasantly warm, wliile the nights are
always cool and the sea breeze refreshing and invigorat-
infj. The numerous stre" and rivers are svvarmingf
with trout and salmon ; ; ' c soil in the valleys is
rich and most productive, v ereals, with the exception
of oats and barley, do not floui'ish along the coast, but
vegetables and roots — excepting those requiring warm
niirhts — grasses and small fruits of the harder varieties
grow abundantly.
The Coast Range Mountains, of no great altitude, may
be said to con.sist of a series of high lands running at
right angles witii the shore ; with valleys and rivers,
between the numerous spurs, having the same general
direction as the highlands. They present a curious ap-
pearance in some places, such as a series of flattened
cones and peaked hills, and the timber, being mostly
killed by forest fires, presents a bleached appearance,
A great deal of tlie dead timber has fallen, and what
OREGON. 139
witli the dcnso growth of the vine-maple, tliiiiible-berry,
and other slirubs, and tlie trunks and roots of the fallen
timber, it is very dilHcult to get about. Cattle roam all
through this region and do well, feeding on the vine-
maple and thimble-berry principally. Ferns grow to an
immense height, and are difficult to get rid of in culti-
vation. A great deal of this dead timber, preserved by
the charring process, is available for the settler's use,
and cedar is not subject to decay.
Unfortunately, the amount of land available for culti-
vation in this coast district is very limited, and confined
to the valleys of rivers and the tide-flats in the vicinity
of various small harbours; and every bit of it is occupied
or owned, and in many cases illegally held for speculation
by persons who could not finally establish a claim at the
United States Land Office. Notwithstanding its difficulty
of access in many places, its bad roads, often impassable
in winter, its comparative remoteness from markets,
every little valley having a few acres only, has been
eagerly sought for. Three or four tons of hay can be
raised on an acre, and with an unlimited run for his
cattle, which require very little feed during winter, and
butter rated as the best in the State, the settler does
very well. Bees arc another great source of income,
and as they feed a great deal on white clover, which
grows abundantly, the honey is delicious. At Astoria
near the mouth of the Columbia River, the rainfall is
about 70 inches, but going south it rapidly diminishes,
until, at a distance of 90 miles or less, it would not be
more than at Portland. Although so damp and rainy a
climate in winter, catarrhal and pulmonary affections
are rarely met with, and then either in consequence of
.140 rilE BRITISH COLONIST.
reckless exposure, or in such persons as have come there
with them.
Starting from Clatsop County — ranging .south — the
most desirable valleys are the Nehalem, extending up
into Columbia County and dividing Clatsop from Tilla-
mook, Tillamook, and Nestucca Vallo3's, in Tillamook
County ; Yaquina Bay and valley of Yaquina River ;
Alsea Bay — the two latter in Benton County ; — Sinslaw
Valley, in Lane County ; Umpqua Valley, in Douglass
County ; the bay and valley of Coos River, in Coos
County ; and the Rogue River Valley, in Curry County.
Tillamook and Nestucca Valleys can be reached Ijy
steamer from Portland to the former ; rail and stage
from North Yamhill, and Sheridan, (in summer) to the
latter. Yaquina Bay is reached by rail from Portland,
and steamer from San Francisco, which touches at other
points south.
Dairy farms can be bought from 30 dollars per acre,
according to improvements. There is a considerable area
of Government land, so far rejected by land-s "kers as
being unfit for cultivation and too expensive to clear,
which is capable of being formed into fine pasture-land ;
and in the Eastern States, especially in Pennsylvania,
there are thousands of farms made on land not half as
good. Crops never fail in this section, and back from
the sea-coast fruit of all kinds can be grown in the more
southern part of it. At Coos Bay there is an extensive
colliery, and in Coos and Curry Counties some fine
timber, including myrtle. The average winter tempera-
ture of this part of the coast is 4G° ; the lust month of
spring is 49° 7' ; and the first of winter J 8° 2'. The
course of the Cascade Mountains — called the Sierra
OREGON. 141
Nevjula in Gilifuniia — tlu-ou^^h the Statt; is gcaieially
j)arallel with shoru of the Pacific, and (hstant therefrom
an averaf^e of 110 miles. Bctv/ecn this and tlio Coast
Range hes the Wilhimetto Valley ; " Oregon's pride," a
magnificent body of farnnng land 200 miles long by 20
or .']0 miles wide. The Willamette River is navigable
(luring high \vater as far as Eugene City, in Lane County.
This valley, in connnon with all this region of the Pacilic
Coast, belongs to the tertiary period. Shells and ligneous
petrifactions are numerous, and niannnal fossils have
been found in various places. The soil of Western
Oregon consists of — (1) a brown elay loam of good ([uality,
thinly tind)ered with oak, producing good grass, found
chiefly along the spurs of mountains, or extended ranges
of hills, never in the level prairie. (2) A dark or black
l)orous soil formed by the admixture of vegetable mould
with the clay loam just described. This soil occurs only
in the valleys close by, or betweiui the mountains, and is
very productive. (3) A grayish, calcareous sandy loam
of very fine (quality, covered with a turf of grass, adapted
to the cultivation of cereals, especially wdieat, oats, and
barley. This class embraces five-sixths of the entire
valley, including most of the [)rairie and some of the
oak timber land. It is little effected by drought, and,
though not naturally porous, is pulverised with facility
and is mellow. (4) A strictly alluvial soil on the im-
mediate banks of the river and its large tributaries,
composed of sand, vegetable matter, and decomposed
earths. This hind is overflowed in very high water, but
not during the grooving season, and is of practically
inexhaustible fertility. The first and second classes of soil
do not stand drought well. The estimates of the yield j^er
142 THE BRITISH CO/.ON/ST.
aero for various cereals arc as follows — wheat, 24 to 30
bushels; ryc,20 Imshels; barley, 20 to 2(S bushels; oats, 40 to
05 busliels; potatoes, 125 to 200 bushels; timothy <^rass,2 to
4 tons per acre. Vef»eta])les of all kinds, and fiuits (with
exception of those kinds reciuirin^- warm nights) are
produced abundantly, and there is often a sup))ly far
exceedin*^ the demand. Under tlie Donation Act of 1852
large tracts of land were ac(piired by settlers, as much as
040 acres by married, and 320 acres by single men. In
most cases the farmers were unable to properly cultivate
half their land, and the same exhausting system was
pursued that has been before mentioned ; with the result
that a large number of farms in the Willamette and other
valleys are now in a state of depletion. The agregatc
overproduction of wheat, and conse({uent low prices,
added to the seriously impaire<l productive power of
their land, has brought them into debt. At least 50 })er
cent, of these farms are mortgaged, many of them hope-
lessly, and their former owners are struggling along
raising such grain as they can for the benefit of their
landlords, the mortgagees. At the eleventh hour efibrts
were made to restore the exhausted fertility of these
lands by copying the methods pursued in the old
countries, such as pasturing sheep on their winter wlieat
rjid summer following. Throughout the Willamette
Valley farms can now be bought from 15 to 25 dols. per
acre, nearly all ploughed land, with all buildings, and
in some cases the farnnng implements, which, however,
after the sui)erior management of the average American
farmer, are not worth carrying off'. On the Willamette
River and along its tributaries the fertility of the soil is
comparatively unimpaired, but on farms on the uplands,
OREGON. 143
and alony tlic foot-liills of thu coast on the west, and
Cascade Mountains on the east, land that lias had 20
crops of wheat taken off it, and nothing done to assist
the soil, it must be a matter of time to restore its pro-
ductiveness. Thousands upon thousands of tons of straw
have been burnt, and still this i)lan is adopted to get rid
of what the superior intellect of the American farmer
tells him is useless and unnecessary as the land is too
fat, and it is too nuich trouble to make manure of it ; and
as he has a contempt for books and theoietical agricul-
ture, he would not know how to make good manure of it
if he tried. The production of fruit is so great that only
that of a superior quality is remunerative to the grovvei*.
As fruit trees require to be pi-operly ))runed and
cultivated to obtain a supei'ior quality of fruit, it follows
that much produced in Oregon is of inferior quality.
The climate and soil is everything that coidd be desired,
and only the " knack " the American farmer has of being
foremost in everj^thing, which wont give him time to
attend to his fruit trees, leads to his disappointment.
There are thousands of acres of land suitable for fruit-
raising and general farming to be bought at reasonable
prices, but land of the fourth class will connnand at least
100 dollars per acre, and is in demand ior hop-raising.
On the foot-hills and mountains there is nuieli Govern-
ment land left ; but it is rough and the timber of no
great value, and the soil of inferior quality. Land on
which valuable timber is found is generally secured by
speculators. The open grazing lands have been so
extensively pastured, especially by sheep, that the feed
is now very scanty.
Besides the Willamette, the principal other valleys
144 THE BRITISH COLONIST
arc tlie Uin])(|u;i, in Douglass County, of wliicli Rose-
liurgh is the chief town — and the Rogue River Valley.
The Unip(|ua Valley is a beautiful country, and contains
a) )0ut 1,000,000 acres. It is principally rolling or hilly
land, the face of the country being in many places
rugged and pictures([uc. It is well supplied with good
soil, good timber, and good water. The valley is separ-
ated from that of tlie Willamette by the Calapooya
Mountains, a heavily timbered belt, with an altitude of
5000 ft., and extending from the Cascade to the Coast
Range. The Umpqua River is navigable for 25 miles by
small ciaf t.
The Rogue River Valley occupies the extreme southern
portion of Western Oregon, extending into California.
It is a broken country, or a series of valleys and rolling
highlands separated in some places by dense forests of
tlr and cedar, and in others tliiiily timbered with oak,
atibrding pasturage. The river is not navigable. The
Rogue River district includes more than the strip of
country constituting the valley of that river. Spurs
from the Siskiyon Mountanis to the south, the Cascades
to the east, and the Umpquas, on the north, traverse the
country in all directions, and the many tributaries of the
Rogue River drain \alleys of considerable area, some of
ohem nearly 50 miles long. The valley of Bear Creek, a
stream rising in the Siskiyon Mouiitains near the Cali-
fornia line, flov's into the Rogue River about 50 miles
to the north. The valley is about 40 miles long, and 12
miles wide, and is bounded by the spurs of the Siskiyon
and Cascade Mountains, ranging north-west and south-
east. It is a very })retty valley, well cultivated. Ash-
land Creek rises on Ashland Butte, a snow peak with an
OREGON. 145
altitude of about 8000 feet, and cnteis Bear Creek 30
miles above its inoutli. A short distance from its
junction tlie town of A.«bland is situated (population,
about 3000). It is a station on the California and Oregon
line, and has doubled its population witliin two years.
The town is built on an elevation of 2000 feet above
the sea level, and enjoys a fine climate, corresponding to
that of similar elevations in the district. The mean annual
temperature (records of United States Signal Service) is
50° Fahr. The average mean temperature for January,
the coldest month in the year, is 3S°, and for July, the
hottest month, 79°. The average annual rainfall is 23
inches. The greatest pi'ecipitation for one month being,
in November, eight inches. No violent storms occur,
and the temperature seldoms falls below 10", and snow,
to the depth of a few inches, remains on the ground
only a short time. There is a cool breeze in the after-
noons and evenings of the hottest days in sunnner. The
town is well laid out, and is a pleasant place of resi-
dence, having good water and one good hotel, and the
surrounding country is very picturesque ; and within GO
miles of the celebrated Crater Lake, a body of water of
unfathomable depth, is an old crater in the Cascade
Range. A semi-weekly stage runs from here to Sink-
ville, in Klamath County. This is the finest fruit-
growing region in Oregon. Ad fruits not requiring a
tropical climate can be grown here, including the English
walnut, and peaches are of particularly line flavour.
All cereals, including maize and sorghmn, flourish in the
valleys. Of fruit, 20 dollars worth of peaches, at one
cent per lb., are said to have been taken from one tree
eight years old ; and 30 dollars worth of apples (at
146 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
same rate) from one tree. From a peach orchard of
1000 trees, 3 years old, a net profit of 100 dols. per acre
has been realised, and this fruit is superior to any grown
on the Pacific Coast. Land is expensive in the Ashland
district, being 100 dols. and more, for choice fruit land,
and 150 dols. or more, for land under cultivation, per
acre. There a,re a number of small, partially cultivated
farms, at a distance from Ashland in various directions,
vv^hich can be purchased for low prices from people who
are in debt, or wish, with the restless spirit of the old
poineer, to move on, or enter into mining or other
business ; but the amount of choice valley land being
very limited, it will command a good price anywhere.
There are a number of fruit orchards, which, from
neglect or ignorance on the part of their owners, are not
remunerative, but it is certain that fruit culture here
will, with good management, pay as well (if not better)
as on any part of the Pacific Coast, and the climate is
far preferable, as the meteorological records will show
There is, also, within a radius of a reasonable distance,
the advantage of enjoying some good sport in the way
of shootinc: and fishincf.
There is much valuable timber in the country ; pine,
fir, cedar, and oak, which is, however, of little value on
this coast. The mineral resources are gold, coal, iron,
cinnabar, marble, limestone, and granite. Since 1852, the
gold taken out amounts to 25,000,000 dols., but at present
the amount found is not much. The rainfall is princi-
pally in winter and early spring, and there are montlis
of dr}'' weather in summer, in which crops will suftor on
any but special soils, and the use of irrigation would
be a great benefit.
OREGON". 147
In some seasons Bear Creek dries up above its
confluence with Ashland Creek, and water gets very low
in wells, and other streams. There is no Government
land worth entering, but on the edges of valleys land
can be purchased at tliree to ten dollars per acre. There
are water powers in tliis district, and a woollen mill and
other machinery is driven by this means at Ashland.
Duiing the summer months the pasturage in the
valleys dries up — except meadows ; and it is very dusty,
and in the southern counties the temperature is often
100° or more in the middle of the day, but it is not
oppressive, especially in situations exposed to the daily
sea breeze. The Coast Range arrests a considerable
portion of the precipitation, and lands of classes 1 and 2
will be likely to suffer from drought. On the Wil-
lamette River and its large tributaries and creeks, and
in the neighbourhood of any sluggish or stagnant waters,
malaria is found in the form of intermittent and bilious
fevers. It is particularly bad in the neighbourhood of
Salem. Also in the southern counties under sinjilar
conditions ague will Ije troublesome, especially during
autumn or protracted droughts. By getting on the up-
lands, or in the higjher vallcvs with swift, clear streams,
this can be avoided. Oregon is an excellent country
for sheep, but it has been overstocked and reliance
placed on the open pasturage, which was soon eaten
out. Overcrowding in tainted yards, and general
neglect of sanitary precautions, has resulted in scab and
a degenerated breed. Fortunately, however, intelligent
.aen are now engaged in farming and managing stock,
whose exam|)le will be followed. With her fine
climates and great natural resources, there must be a
I4S Tim BRITISH COLONIST.
great future for Oregon when agricultural operations
are conducted on proper principles.
The timber belt of Oreofon is situated in the Cascades,
and extends the wliolc luiiirth of the State. All alono-
the foothills small valleys will be found, afibrding ex-
cellent situations for small fruit farms. The pure and
delightful breeze from the Pacific tempers the heat of
the sun, and with pure water and freedom from malaria,
life should be enjoyable. People who have experienced
the terrible weather of tlie Central and Eastern States,
willingly submit to the loss of some pleasant attributes
of their lives in their old homes. The principal market
for produce is Portland, from which it is again distri-
buted to various points on the Puget Sound and Eastern
Washington. The prices obtained by the farmer are
not by any means always satisfactory. The middle-
men (commission merchants), and railroad companies,
especially, when there is no competition, absorb the lion's
share of the proceeds. The American farmer is bled on
every side, but he is used to it ; and this country is so
ruled by monopolists and S3'ndicatcs, and breeds of one
kind and another, that it is difticult to see a way of relief
for him. If he can make 6 per cent, on his investment,
and a comfortable plain living, he should be satisfied ; but
unless he is an intelliixent inana^'er and a man of iudo;-
ment, l>e will certainly not do that. Here, as in Wash-
ington, the rain and mud in the winter is trying, and
the dust is also in summer ; but nothing like California.
Tiiere is no dust in Western Washington, but they take
it out in mud. You will often grumble and growl about
the 'state of the roads and the rain, but every week or
so you will read in your paper an account of the terrible
OREGOlf. 149
blizzards in the East ; and in tlio words of a modern
American poet, whose name, however, is not generally
known, you will
" Get down on your knees in the 'mus,'
And thank the Lord it aint no ' wus.' "
There arc no summer storms to damage anything.
Yaquina Bay, about 180 miles from Portland by rail, is
a delightful summer resort, and chielly to be noted as
being the Pacific terminus of the Oi'egon Pacific Road, now
pushing througli the Cascades to cross Eastern Oregon,
and aside with the Union Pacific at Boise City, Idaho.
The harbour at Yaquina is said to be the best on the
coast, south of the Columbia, but it is not at present
deep enough for large vessels drawing over IG feet. The
Oregon Pacific Company, owning nearly all the town
side, propose making this port a rival to Portland, by
sliipping the cereals to be hereafter raised in Eastern
Oi'egon, and such as they can direct from the Willamette
Valley from this port, when the harbour is made deep
enouo'h. At the rooms of the " Board of Innnii^ration "
at Portland some information may be obtained of use
to the stranger.
There are gi'eat attractions for the tourist and sports-
man in Oregon ; for there is both fine scenery, when not
obscured by smoke from fires, or mist (during the early
part of summer is the best timej, and there is good
shooting and fishing everywhere. Large game must be
souo'ht in the Cascades, and there are a few deer in the
Coast Mountains, and some bears. Dogs must be used,
and the ground to be gone over is very rough. There
are ruffed grouse and California ({uail ; and they will be
*5o THE BRITTSH COLON/St.
found in Au<fU8t round the wheat fiehls, alonij tlio ednfe
of the timber, and later in the woods. The JMonooliaii
])lieasant has been introduced and is multiplying rapidly.
Ducks arc abundant on the Columbia and in the lakes.
Trout are found everywhere, and salmon wherever they
can get up stream in the tributaries of the lar^c rivers.
Some of the best rivers for fishinij are the " Nehalem,"
the Trask, in Tillamook, and the Rogue River, in
Douglass County. In the two former rivers fisli run to
four lbs. in weight ; in the latter both large trout and
salmon, from 10 to 15 lbs. weight, can be taken with
the fly. It is a very rapid river and requires strong
tackle. This river is the only place known where
salmon take the fly. Take the CaHfornia J. Oregon
Itoad from Portland and get out at " Goldhill Station,"
with camp, outfit, and a barrel of salt to cure the fish, if
you are good with tackle. July is the best season. At
the falls of the Willamette near Oregon city, in latter
end of April and May, when the salmon are running,
fish from 10 to 40 lbs. can be taken with spoon-bait,
and lots of them. For large game, take any of the
emigrant roads crossinir the Cascades into Eastern
Oregon. When in the foothills secure the services of
an old hunter.
In all the valleys south of the Willamette nuicli of the
choicest alluvial soil is under cultivation and valued at
100 dollars per acre. Good land uncultivated can be pur-
chased at from 10 to 20 dollars per acre. There are thou-
sands of acres of land of good quality, but covered with
brush or timber which can be bought cheap, when the
timber is of no great value,but the expensesof clearing are
an obstacle to the profits of such an investment at present.
OREGON. 151
There are, however, areas of Lriisli land wliicli can bo con-
verted into pasture by slashing and burninrr-, and then put-
ting Angora goats into the enclosure, which, by constantly
nipping the shoots, prevent any new growth ; and the
profits of the increase of the herd, and the mohair, set
against the ex|3ense of bringing it into cultivation. The
adoption of irrigation in the south portion of the State
would bo advisable, on certain classes of soil expecially.
Eastern Oregon commences east of the Cascades, ex-
tends to California, on the south, Idaho, on the east, and
Washington, on the north. The climate is quite different
from that of the western division. It is dry, and bracing,
and except on occasional years, never very cold ; mercury
seldom going below zero, and the spring is fine, early
and open. The snow-falls, sometimes deep, are removed
by the " Chinook " wind. The country is subject to
high winds, summer and winter ; and dust is very
troublesome in some parts, and the winds often bleak in
winter. There is an insufficiency of rain for agri-
cultural purposes, and irrigation is required, except in a
few places to be hereafter mentioned. There are several
large lakes and numerous rivers, but none navigable ex-
cept the Snake and the Columbia. Between the
Cascade and the Rocky Mountain chains the country is
composed of immense plateaux, interspersed with
numerous unconnected mountain ridges of recent
volcanic origin. Some of these are covered with im-
mense forests, while others are merely sterile masses of
trappean rocks, piled together in rugged heai)s by the
elevatory force of internal fires. By some of these
elevations, and by spurs projecting from the two main
ranges, the broad table lauds, as before mentioned, are
IS* riTK BRITISH COLONIST.
divided into tlircc distinct valleys or basins, namely: —
The Utah basin, centring at Great Salt Lake, but having
many undulations, forming geographic centres, to which
its rivers flow and disappear in the sandy plains, or dis-
charge their currents into island lakes. This basin has
no outlet to the sea. Tiie Klamath basin, north-west of
Utah (drained by the Klamath lliver), emptying into the
Pacific Ocean, and the Dos Chutes River, emptying into
the Columbia. The Columbia basin includes all that
portion of Oregon lying east of the Cascades, and known
as Eastern Oregon ; except the small portion occupied
by the Klamath, a part of which is in California, and
another small portion of the Utah basin lying mostly in
Utah Territory. The geological structure of the
Cascade range is of the same general character as that
of the Rocky Mountains, but tliere is less of stratified
rocks, and stronger indications of recent volcanic action
are observed. Basaltic and fjranitic rocks constitute the
geological basis of the country. Slate and other argil-
laceous rocks, and a sort of irreducible limestone also
characterise the western slope of the Continent. The
metamoi'phic features become more marked the nearer
we approach the Pacific, until arriving at tliu Cascade
range, this characteristic is plainly seen. Certain differ-
ences between the soil and vegetation on the east, and
those on the west side of this second volcano axis of the
country, may be explained by atmospheric or meteoro-
logical peculiarities ; so that the ui)heaval of this ridge?
notwithstanding those differences, was probably con-
temporaneous with that of the Rocky Mountains. But
it is certain the Cascade range has undergone more re-
cent convulsions, and of the numerous vents along the
OREGOr^. 153
suiiiinit line, some iiii<jfht be classed as active volcanoes.
Slight shocks of eartli(jiiake have at periods been felt on
the North Pacific slope, but not nearly so severe as those
experienced in California.
S(;on after entering Oregon's southern boundary, the
Cascade range throws off a branch called the Blue
Mountains, which extends north-eastwardly through the
State, passing into Washington and Idaho. A party of
explorers from the " Princeton University " have recently
made some very interesting discoveries in Eastern
Oregon. Betv^^een the Blue Mountains and the Cascades
the country is reported to be a great volcanic plateau,
made up of lava sheets i)iled one on top of the other ;
indicating ancient volcanic outbursts on a stupendous
scale. Through this mass of lava streams have cut
deep valleys, some broad, and others deep, gloomy
canons. This entire district was in a former geological
age the bed of a great fresh-water lake, into which
streams brought masses of sand and mud, and volcanoes
showered ashes. Animals, which were swept into the
lake in times of flood, became covered with silt, and as
the latter in course of ages consolidated into rock, the
bones of the victims were gradually petrified. This
rock is now slowly disintegrating by atmospheric action,
and these bones are exposed to view ii\ some places on
the sides of canyons. From the remains found, it seems
that animals were of a much smaller size, and of a
ditferent description to those of the present day, and the
climate is supposed to have been warmer than at
present. Great areas of this region are covered with
sage brush, and enormous bands of sheep roam over it.
The grass has been utterly destroyed, leaving the
»S4 THE ryRITlSH COLONIST.
couiitiy quite Itnrc in places, and whei'c the pastumge is
trodden out by large herds of sheep, it is estimated that
it would take 1 2 years for its restoration, in the ordinary
course of nature. There are thousands of acres of
fertile soil in this country, only recpiiring irrigation to
make thcni very productive, and vegetables and fruit
grown here have proved of very superior (piality and
flavour. The Oregon Paeilic Railway will open this
country. So far, the whole of Eastern Oregon has been
mostly given up to stock-men, who try to keep people
out by saying the country is tit for nothing else.
Wherever irrigation has been tried, however, on suitable
land, it has been successful, and alfalfa will yield abun-
dantly.
Klamath County, on the southern boundary of the
State, has an area of about 5,400 square miles. This
county is without any transportation facilities, supplies
having to be hauled over the mountains from Ashland,
a station on the Oregon and California road.
There is a considerable quantity of land, which, with
irrigation, will be very productive, but so far it is used
for a stock range, and it is overstocked. Some extra-
ordinary crops are reported from this county, with
irrigation, or raised on land naturally irrigated. The
Klamath is a magnificent lake and a peculiar one, inas-
much as it has " no water in it." It is a broad savannah,
sometimes covered with a thin sheet of water for a brief
period. There is some good country round Goose Lake,
Lake Abert, and some others of considerable size in the
northern part of the Utah Basin. The country is
picturesque and enticing to the sportsman. The bunch
grass (festuca) of the immense grazing lands of Eastern
OREGON. 1S5
Oi'O'jon and W.-isliiiiutoii j^-i'ows in laimi tnt'ts, and is
not bound togctlier by their fibrous roots as with most
other grasses. It ^rows iVoin G to 18 inches liiijli, and is
very luitritious, and wlicn the dry season commences it
cures into a hay, and retains nuicli of its nutritive
properties. It was considered inexhaustil)le, but, in
connuon Avith all other wild f,n*asses, it will not stand
continual croppiui;, and its place must be taken by
cultivated grasses, or re-seeded. The valleys of the
Des Chutes and its trilnitarics, contain some very rich
land, and lai'ge crops have been pi'oduced. The valley
of the John Day River is of e(pial fertility. It is aljout
80 miles east of the Des Chutes, both i-ivers running
north into the Columbia. Powder lliver runs thi'ougli
the largest valley in Eastern Oregon, and contains some
excellent soil. Burnt River runs through a very rough
region, with little land of any value for cultivation, but
it is well timbered, with good grass. East of Burnt
lliver the land is comparatively worthless, and im-
pregnated with alkali.
The " Grande Hondo," a few leagues north of Powder
River, is an enchanting vallo3^ The first view of it
from the Oregon short line of the Union Pacific Railroad,
approaching from the east, will delight the beholder.
It is about 20 or 30 miles in length, situated in the
midst of the Blue Mountains, whose foothills are clad
to their summits in verdui'e, with blooming orchards
and verdant meadows ; its sight is most refreshing after
hours of journeying over dusty, sage-brush plains. Here
is observed a similar natural ii'rigation to that described
at Walla- Walla. The water from mountain streams
spreads itself over the western side of the valley, making
is6 rnr. nRiTfsri COLONIST.
it very iVnitl'ul. Oji tl»u ojistuni sid'j tlu' luiul is not
quite so good, and theio are seasons in wliich dilHctdty
is experienced in growing crops, from lack of rain.
Where there is no naturally moist soil, or some kind of
natural irrigation, there is not rain cnougli in any of
those valleys. Lovely as the Grande Hondo is, there are
some serit)ns drawbacks. The winds in winter, rushing
through gaps in the mountains, sweep with great fury
, through the valley, sometimes with heavy snowstoi'ms.
Its proximity to the mountains, and its altitude, result
in sudden changes of temperature, producing neuralgic
and rheumatic afl'ections. Mountain fever, a remitting
fever of malarial origin, also occurs at certain seasons.
Although the winters are short, the mercury falls much
below zero at times, and fruit is liable to be nipped by
frost in the spring. A great deal of hay is grown, and
it is the centre of a very extensive and tine stock
country. Land can be bought at from 12 to 80 dollars
per acre. Wallowa County, bounded on the east by the
Snake River, has been settled in the past few years. It
is a very rough, mountainous country, good for stock
most of the year, but the snow is very deep in the
winter, and it is colder owing to its elevation. The
valleys along the Snake Uiver are excellent wintering
places for stock, but over-crowded, and there is much
trouble between sheep and cattle-men all through this
country, and sheep have been poisoned as they spoil the
range for cattle. Baker City, in the county of that name,
and a mining centre, is a good market for the Grande
Ronde particularly. Baker and part of Malheur
County were splendid sheep ranges ; but now many of
the hills and mountains are absolutely bare, and there
ORF.aOiV. 157
is no room for iiioi-e herds. In Umatilla Count} there is
a iinc rancje, and enormous bands of horses luive been
raised there. It is an excellent climate, and f,Tain can
be raisutl without irrigation ; and it is a very tine fruit
country, and, the elevation beinrj nuich less, stock winter
on very littl(3 feed, some winters without any. Kidinf^
and drivinf^ is attended with pleasure in all Iilastern
Orei^on, for there is little nuid and ^i^-ood roads, and the
scenery is charmin^^ It must be understood that there
is no choice Government land left in Eastern Oretron
except the Uuuitilla Reservation be opened. Land,
or farms and ranches. must be boui^'ht. On the plateaux
before mentioned, there are lots of land for entry, but
useless without irrigation.
In the Wallowa Lake is a peculiar fish, a variety of
salmon which has been called the red-Hsh, or red-trout.
Mr. Messenf^er of Walla- Walla — a keen sportsman and
close observer — mves some interestinnj information about
this fish. The rcd-f sh, or red-trout, is anadromous, and
ascends to the lake by the Wallowa River in large num-
bers in the spring. The peculiar, deep, red colour for
which the fish is noted is only assumed during the
spawning season. At other times tlie fish is of a bright
silver colour, and is probably the fish known as the
" Mukletio salmon " in Puo;et Sound. When the fish
first arrive at the lake they look slender, but soon be-
come very broad and deep, growing constantly in depth,
but not much in length. The head of the fish becomes
changed and the nose hooked. They have no teeth on
ai'iival, but shortly after these make their appearance,
and as they also shed their scales a';>out the same time,
their appearance is entirely changed in the course of
158 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
about two weeks. The average weight of the male is
from five to six pounds, that of the female from four to
five pounds. They have been caught as large as ten
pounds occasionally. Although the fish do not appear
to feed on anything while in the lake, they will some-
times take a book if baited with their own eggs, whi(;h
are of a deep-red colour, and one-third smaller than
those of the salmo guinnat. The males are very quarrel-
some on the spawning bed, and are continually fighting.
The principal spawning grounds of these fish are about
the mouths of the small tributaries of the lake, and also
along the shallow, gravelly shores of the lake itself ;
which is about four miles long and about a mile and a
lialf wide. In some places it is known to be 325 feet
deep, and there are undoubtedly deeper spots than these.
The fish commence running into the lake in the first half
of July, and the run continues throughout August.
After spawning they leave the lake and probably return
to the sea in September. Many die, however, annually,
while in the lake, from injuries received during the run
up, or from exhaustion, and large nundjers used to be
destroyed by bears, which are very partial to, and expert
in catching them. The bears, however, have been cauglit
in their turn by the settlers. One year 25,000 ])ounds
of these fish were taken in nets and sold for 10 to 15
cents per lb.
Besides these fish there are in this lake numbers of
large trout, weighing from four to six pounds, and also
what is called the *' bull trout,'' a slender, handsome fish
with pink spots, caught as heavy as 9 lbs. Wallowa
Lake is easy of access, and the climate there during the
sunnner and late into the autunui is delightful. There
OK EG ON. 159
is still some fair hunting" to be had in this district. The
game is much the same as before described. There is
some good duck and snipe shooting in the Grande Ronde
Valley, and rufiecl grouse in the timber, and lots of small
trout in the mountain streams, and salmon come up tlio
river in the season. Good hunting will be found in
Willowa County. In Klamath County (in tlie moun-
tains) there are some bands of " Wapiti " deer (called
elk) and there is some very good hunting ground here ;
there beinjy no raih'oad communicaticm. An exciting'
scene was recently witnessed Ijy some hunters in the
" Linkville " district. A band of wapiti accompanied
by a fawn and headed by a " Monarch of the Glen," was
discovered in a small valley, and the hunters were pre-
paring to shoot, when suddenly some large, grey wolves
daslied out from the bush and pulled down the fawn.
The band of wa])" 1 at once went to the roscue, and
forming a cordon round the wolves, presented their
formidable antlers to the foe. The wolves, with savaofo
yells, spranf^ again and again at the wapiti, only to be
hurled back mangled and bleeding. Closer and closer
pressed the wapiti, presenting an impenetrable chevaux-
df'-frise with their antlers, till at length the wolves were
left dead on the ground, only one mangled animal having
strength to crawl oft*. Unfortunately, the hunters had
approached so close during the contlict that they easily
despatched several of the wapiti, which should have been
spared after their noble defence. While touching on
the subject of hunting, something should be said of the
frequent charges brought against English sportsmen,
particularly, of wantonly butcliej ing game, by American
newspapers. Some few instances may have occurred,
l6o THE BRITISH COLONIST,
but very few, and the game has been destroyed by
American skin-lmnters. Tons of buft'alo-robes were sold
for as low as a dollar each, and the carcasses left on the
plains. Deer and wapiti were surrounded in deep snow
and slaughtered for their skins. Prairie grouse and
quail were trapi)ed, and the former have been thrown to
the hogs in former times in Illinois, where they used to
be abundant. Ratlier late in the day " associations of
sportsmen," in various parts of the country, are doing
their best to put a stop to all tliis, and enforce the game
laws, wliich, however, cannot easily be done in many
places, for those law-abiding citizens who wisli to give
information of violations of the law dare not, for fear
of tlie revenge of those informed against. The term
" sportsman " is in this country mostly applied to the
horse-racing and gambling fraternity, and that of
"hunter" refers to those who use the ritle and shot-G^un.
At Portland there is a Game Preservation Society, and
there are a n amber of true sportsmen. Here is published
the best newspaper on the Pacific Coast, the Oregonian,
which bravely maintained the rights of the Chinese
during their ])ersecution, and it may be said, greatly to
the credit of the State of Oregon, that every attempt
at outrage was suppressed.
The prices of ])ro'';isions at Portland are as low as in
the east, and in many eases lower. Clothing also is as
cheap although brought from the east. Building
material of all kinds is reasonal)le in price, and the cost
of living less than it would be in the eastern States. A
small cottage of lumber and plastered can be built for
350 dollars. A small house of seven small rooms, 900
dollars. In the first case about 5,000 feet of lumber and
OREGON, i6i
(S,000 shingles would be required; in the latter, 12,000
feet of lumber and 10,000 shingles. The price of lumber
ranges from 12 to 25 dollars per 1000 feet, and shingles
three to four dollars per 1000. The variation of these
jirices, in the different parts of the country, will not
make a great difference in the cost of this portion of the
material for houses of this size and of very plain finish
and such as are commonly built on a farm by persons of
moderate means. In giving a contract to a builder, a
stranger will be likely to be imposed upon if not very
careful, and his house will be unsatisfactory and costly
for its quality.
Good horses for farm work range from 100 to 200
dollars each. Half-bred ponies and light driving horses
50 to 100 dollars. Ordinary cows (with calf) 40 to 50
dollars. Sheep 2 dols. 50 c. to 4 dollars. Stock
cattle, 20 to 30 dollars, There are a number of breeders
and importers of thorough-bred stock in Oregon, and
much improvement is being made in the grade of stock
throughout the Pacific Coast. Oidinary poultry sells at
2 dols. 50 c. to 4 dollars per dozen for chickens and
hens. Ducks 5 to G dollars per dozen. Turkeys 12
cents per lb. ; eggs 12 to 25 cents per dozen. Wheat is
usually from G5 to 80 cents per bushel, and oats from
25 to 40 cents per bushel ; hay 5 to 12 dollars per ton ;
fat cattle 5 cents per lb. (gross) ; sheep 4 cents per lb.
(gross) ; flour 4 dollars per 100 lbs ; waggons, farm,
80 to 100 dollars ; harness, doul)le, 35 dollars ; vehicles
75 to 300 dollars; driving hnrness 40 to GO dollars
(double setj ; plain furniture 40 to 100 dollars per set.
Farms can be rented for 2 dollars per acre, and in
some cases for one-third of the crop.
L
CALIFORNIA.
CONTENTS.
Dkscrhtio.v and Area, 163 — Climate, 163 — Coast Rpgion, 164 — Valleys
in the Sierra Nevada, 165 — Climate of San Francisco, 16.") — Climate
at Fort Yuma, 166 — The Ruiiiy Season, 166 — Mean Kainfall of Pacific
Coast, 167— Malarial Fevers, 168 — Pulmonary Diseases, 168— Mean
Tcmpeiatures, 109 — Government Land, 169 — Dehesia Land Com-
pany, 169 — Monte Vista and Rosenthal Land Companies, 169— Shasta
County, 169— Sacramento Valley, 170 — Rivers in Shasta, 170— Rain-
fall at Red Bluff", 171 — Lands for Homesteads, 171 — Immigration
Society, 171 — The vSettler on Government Land, 172 — The Foothills
of the Sierra, 172 — Land iu Owens, Salinos, and Estrella Valleys, 173
— Fertility and Extent of Tule Lands, 174 — Irrigation, 176 — The
Ramie Plant, 176— San Joaquin Valley,179 — Miramonte Ccdony, 180
— Selection of Lands for Vineyards, 181 — The Old Missions, 182 —
Valley of S;in Jose, 183— Valleys of Sonoma, Napa, Bodega, 183 —
Temperature of the Citrus Belts, 184 — Orange Trees, 184 — Figs,
185 — Exports of Oranges, 185 — Assessment of Fruit Lands, 185 —
Cost of Making Orchards, 187— Profits of Orchards, 189— Of
Oranges, 189 — Report of Los Angeloa Chamber of Commerce, 189 —
Climate and Soil for Oranges, 190 — Profit of Oranges in Florida,
191 — Cost of Making Wines, 192 — Wholesale Prices of Wines at
New York, 193 — Prices of Wines on Pacific Coast, 194 — Prices of
Fruit, 194 — Importations of Fruits and Wines, 195 — Prices Current,
195 — Quality of California Fruits, 196 — Exportation of Green Fruit,
196 — Quality of Green F'ruit and Vegetables, 197 — Labour in Cali-
fornia, 197 — Cotton in Southern California, 197 — Rice Lands, 198 —
Cost and Profits of Figs, 198- Capital Required for a Settler, 198 —
View of the Sacramento Valley, 1 99 — The City of Sacramento, 199 —
Benicia, 201 — Napa and Sonoma ^'alleys, 201 — The Sierra Nevada
Range, 201 — Scenery in Southern California, 202— San Bernadino
Valley, 202— Rivers, 202— Sau Bernadino Mountains, 203— San
CALIFORNIA, i6-
Bruno and Santa IJaibaia Ranges, 203 — Haiboius, 'JO I — tian Diego,
'204 — Coronado Beach, 20-4 — Hotels, 204 — San Diego, Ivcsouices
and Climate, '20.") — ^'aluo of Fruit Orchards, '206 — Stock Range in
Southern California, '207 — Alfalfa in San Bernailino Valley, '207
—Cultivation of Alfalfa, 207 — Feeding Stock, '208— I'rotit on
Green Fruit, 210— Cultivation of the Olive, 211— Olive Oil, 213—
Product of an Olive Orchard, 2 lo— Price of Imported Olive Oil,
215— Mr. Cooper's Report on Olives, 215 — Age of Bearing of Olive
Trees, 210 — A Conscientious Estate Agent, 217 — Labourers and
Mechanics, 217 — Cost of Fencing, 217 — Rabbits, 217.
This immense State extends alonf^ the Pacific Coast 750
miles, with an average breadth of 230. Its area is
120,947,840 acres, of which about 89,000,000 acres are
estimated as suited for some kinds of agricultural in-
dustry. In the basin of the Sacramento and San Joaij^uin
llivers there are al)Out 14,000,000 acres of arable land,
10,000,000 in the coast valleys, and the remainder in
the " Colorado Desert," Owens Iliver valley, and the
^''himath basin. The area of lakes, bays, and mountains
is estimated at 14,000,000 acres.
The Climate of California.
There are two climates ; the inland and the coast.
The temperature of the water in the ocean is very even,
standing at 52° to 45° all the year round. From April
to October a steady, cool, moist wind from the north
prevails. It is always cool and pleasant both summer
and winter. The inland climate may be subdivided into
th(^ climate in the valleys, and that of the foothills of the
mountains and the highlands. In the sunnner, in the
former, it is exceedingly dry, with an immense depth of
dust, which covers the pedestrian or equestrian as with
a cloud, and it penetrates everything. During July,
l64 TIJE BRITISH COLONIST.
August, and September, tlie heat is great, often reaching
from 106° to 110° ckn-ing the middle of the day, and is,
in the southern portion of the State especially, quite
prostrating, and all who can afford it go to the seaside.
This great heat being accom})anied by an extremely dry
atmospher(>, and consequent rapid evaporation, sunstroke
does not occur, as it would in many of the Eastern States
with a very much lower temperature; and great as the
heat is in these valleys, it is much more endurable than
85° in the shade in New York or Phikidclphia. In
all those portions of the valleys surrounding the Bay
of San Francisco, and in all others adjacent to the ocean,
the moist air from the latter prevents it from being
scorched in summer, or frozen in winter. The cold of
winter in the interior, even on mounta^'n elevations, is
not intense, with the exception of counties in the extreme
north of great elevation. The severity of winter is due,
not to extreme cold in every part, but to violent and
prolonged snowstorms in one section, and cold and pro-
kmixed rains in others. The long range of the coast,
the slope of which, as far back as the first mountain wall,
is under the control of the ocean, has a most uniform
climate. The soil is kept moist by daily deposits of mist,
and is admirably adapted for dairy purposes, as well as
all vegetable growth. The counties bordering on the
great bay, Sonoma, Napa, Solano, Contra Costa, Alameda,
Santa Clara, and San Mateo have climates modified by
the warm, moist air from the Pacific, and have wonder-
ful agricultural resources. The Paj^aro, and some other
valleys further south, are also bathed by the moist winds
of the ocean, as also the Sacramento and San Joaquin
Valleys, but in a less degree, being further back from the
C A U FOR NT A. 165
ocean. The innumerable little valleys ranging along the
Sierra Nevada range have deep snow in winter, and are
furnaces in the hot part of summer. Thoy arc luxuriant
in vegetation in spring and summer, and all kinds of
fruit are most productive ; and the numerous mountain
streams afford plenty of irrigating facilities. Tlie
southern section, including one-fourth the State, is de-
ficient in rainfall.
The Climate of San Francisco. — The mean annual
temperature is 5G"G, and for that of the coast and bay
climate generally, it is the same. A record for 17 years
at San Francisco shows tlie coldest day to have been 25°,
and the coldest noon-day 87°. The two hottest days
were 97° and 98° ; but this is a most exceptionally high
temperature. There were but six days in 17 years in
which the thermometer was as high on an average as 90°.
The first decided rains commence generally in November
or December. In January the rains abate, and vegeta-
tion advances slowly, with occasional slight frosts-
February is like spring, with little rain. March and
Apiil are pleasant and showery, with an occasional hot
day. In June, when the hot weather sets in, the breeze
comes and continues through July and August, occasion-
ally holding up for a day or two, when it is rather
warm. In September the sea breeze moderates, and
there is some warmish weather which is prolonged into
the next month. Pleasant weather continues often into
November, or December, when the rains set in. The
great scourge of San Francisco is the dust, which is very
bad at times, whirling into the eyes at every turning of
the street, and generally producing a sense of discom-
fort. Ladies' dresses suffer much from the effects of
l66 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
tliis dust. The M'inter season is the most plcasiint in all
respects. Receding t'nnn tlie ocean the days are warmer,
and the nights colder, but the mean varies little within
the ranj^e of tlie sea breeze, and throuixhout California
the nights are cool and refreshing, with few exceptions.
In the south-east corner of the State there is a section
having a distinct climate. It is known as the Colorado
Desert — barren of vegetation, with little rain. Here is
situated Fort Yuma — one of the hottest places on earth^
The heat, commencing to be excessive in IMay, becomes
unendurable in June, July, and August, marking from
116° to 120° in the shade, and about 90° at 10 P.M. In
this belt of country rain seldom falls ; in the distance
dark clouds may be seen hanging over the California
and Sonoramian Mountains, but they seldom visit inter-
mediate localities, and during one whole year only two
inches of rain fell. During winter and spring storms of
dust and sand sweep over the desert plains, coming
principally from the north-west, raising and carrying
before them clouds of i^ulverised sand and dust, which
penetrate every crevice, the finest silk not being imper-
vious. In summer these hot winds — like the simoons of
the Sahara — sweep over and scorch the land, like the hot
blasts of a furnace.
During the rainy season, in California, the rain is not
perpetual. In more than half the winter, usually, there
is no more than necessary for agriculture, and much
pleasant weather is interspersed. In the intervals of
rain it is bright, sunny, and calm. At Christmas every-
thing is green almost throughout the State, and in
February and March flowers and blossoms are out. The
rains are showery, and not often regularly continuous
CALIFORNIA.
167
for many hours, and the sun breaks forth frequently in
the midst of a shower, and the sky becomes ahnost clear.
Presently, when it is least expected, the rain is heard on
the roof with the suddenness of a shower-bath. The
night is more favourable to rain than tlie day, and no
matter how dense the clouds, or how marked the indi-
cations of the barometer, the sun frequently breaks the
clouds, and the rain is not renewed until nif^ht.
The following table exhibits the mean quantity of
rain fallinsj at different stations, and the number of
years on which the mean is computed. The stations are
arranged in the order of their latitude, beginning with
Fort Yuma and San Diego, which are about on the same
parallel : —
MEAN QUANTITY OF RAIN.
Localities,
• • • • • •
• • • • • •
I • • • • •
• • • • • «
• • • • • •
Fort Yuma
San Diego
Monterey
Stockton
San Francisco
Benicia
Sacramento
Placerville
Do.
Soutli Yuba
Do.
Red Dog (Nevada County)
Fort Jones
Honpa Valley (Klamath County)
Port Orf ord
Astoria, Oregon ...
Dalles, Do
Fort Steilacoom, Washington ...
Term.
Mean.
Years.
Inches.
4
3-24
3
10-43
4
12-20
4
15-10
17
20-79
8
22-86
12
18-23
1
80
1
26
1
109
1
81-56
3
64
3
10-17
1
129 15
4
7103
li
80-35
2
14-32
5
01-75
i68 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
California, with a ranofo of 10" of latitude, has a mini-
mum of 8{ inchos at Yuma, and a maximum of over 100
inches on the Sierras.
The enormous quantity of 129 inches at Hoopa Valley
was ref^istered by Dr. Kirkpatrick of the U.S. Army.
The rainfall for three months was as follows: — Novem-
ber. 44-10 in.; December, 23-70 in.; January, 3095 in.
On the Scmth Yuba 41 "95 in. fell in one month — Decem-
ber. As this enormous mass of water drains into the
Sacramento River, it is no Avonder terrible inundations
sometimes occur. Hooj)a Valley is only 40 miles west of
Fort Jones, where the annual supply is set down as 16'77
in. only. In the lower portion of the Sacramento, and
in other valleys, especially in the Los Angelos district,
ague and bilious fevers prevail in the autumn. Dense
fo^•s occur at Los Anirelos in the winter, and so
much moisture is deposited, that water can be wrung
out of the beard, and a person hardly seen across the
street.
^Ir. Loiin Blodo-et, witli reference to the effect of the cli-
mate on pulmonary diseases (" Climatology of the United
States," p. 475), says : " Three years at Sacramento,
wdiich would represent the avei-age of Upper California
(juito correctly, gave 113 deaths in a total of 1,251, or
OO'Oo per 1,000 ; but," he remarks, " certain it is, how-
ever, that few of the cases of consumptive di'^'eases
hitherto met with in the valley have originated here.
In most, if not in all the instances, the disease has been
implanted before reaching the country, and the most
that can be said is, that it liaa not been benefited by the
change. . . ." It is believed that the cases of all pul-
monary affections originating in California will not reach
CALIFORNIA. 169
four per cent, on the nuinber of deaths, and will thus
stand at less than one-tliird of the number of the
Eastern States. The yearly mean temperatures for the
following stations are: San Francisco, 50"G° ; Sacra-
mento, 58"; San Diec,^), 02°; Port Orford, 53° ; Dalies,
Oregon, 53° ; Fort Steilacoom, Washington, 51°.
In Shasta County, in the northern part of the State,
there is reported to be 1,500,000 acres of Government
land unentered.
The "Dehesia Colony," comprising 1,180 acres, situ-
* ated three miles from Reading, the ca[)ital of the county,
offers its lands in 20 and 30 acre lots, at 20 to 40 dolhirs
per acre. The Monte Vista Colony, comprising 1,500
acres, lying two miles east and north of Anderson, on the
California and Oregon Railway, 220 miles north of San
Francisco, otters land at 80 to 75 dollars per acre. The
Rosenthal Colony has 9 000 acres in the Upper Sacra-
mento Valley, seven miles south of Red Bluff', offered at
20 to 50 dollars per acre. The usual terms are : one-
third cash, one-third in two years, and one-third in three
years, with interest at eight per cent, on deferred pay-
ments. Shasta is separated from Oregon by Siskiyon
and Modoc Counties. Of its area, 975,000 acres are
fertile lower foothill land, 1,250,000 acres higher foot-
hills and Sierra Mountains, and 335,000 acres Coast
Ranfje Mountains.
The Sierra and Coast Range Mountains cover a large
tortion of this county on all sides but the south, which
comprises the lower foothill region, half-circular in shape,
forming the upper part of the Sacramento Valley, and
having an altitude of from 400 to 2,500 feet above sea-
level. Tiie south-west portion of the foothill region is a
1 70 THE BRl TISH COL ONTST.
succession of rounded liills, varying in height from 50 to
500 feet above the general level of the valley. In the
central and southern portions are elevated land and
valleys. From this section eastward there is a gradual
ascent to the mountains, with manjr fine valleys and
plateaux, the soil being a loose loam, composed of decayed
vegetable matter.
The Sacramento River runs throuoli a considerable
portion of the county. Reading is about 300 miles from
ohe sea by the Sacramento River, but only about 220
miles by the direct course of the valley, and is the head
of steamboat navigation. The valley of the Sacramento
is here from 10 to 15 miles wide, but is more or less
occupied by the foothills of the Sierra Nevada on the
east, and of the Coast Range on tli^ west, and these hills
extend occasionally in bluffs of GO and a 100 feet in
height, quite to the river banks, but they become less
frequent descending, and eventually entirely disappear
near the river, and the valley becomes wider, more 0})en,
and level. For several miles above Reading the valley
is open, rolling prairie. The general level of the country
is elevated above the level of the immediate river banks,
and is broken by dry ravines and hills. Seventeen miles
^ above Reading the course of the Sacramento for 90 miles
to the mouth of Canoe Creek lies through heavily-tim-
bered mountains, rising precipitously from the river
banks to a height of 1,500 to 2,000 feet. Its course is
windincr, and seldom straiijfht for over two miles together.
Of tlie numerous streams of the country, the McCloud
River, rising on Mount Shasta — 14,440 elevation — runs
about half its length through the county, and empties
into Pitt River, which is a tributary of the Sacramento.
CALIFORNTA. 171
Cow Creek find its tributaries, Oak Hun, Clover Creek,
Bear Creek, and Battle Creek, are all running streams,
rising- in the Sierras, and draining the south-eastern part
of the count}', ^[ontgomery, Cedar, Hatchet, Biirney,
and Hat Creeks are mountain streams emptying into
Pitt River. The most beautiful stream is Fall River,
which has three springs for its source, and winds 25
miles through the countr}'', and empties into Pitt River.
Springs abound in the foothills and mountains. The United
States Simial Service Officer in Red Bluff* records a
mean annual rainfall of 28 inches. The months of July
and August have no rain. June has 02 in., and Septem-
ber 0*4 only. The mean temperature for July is 83",
and for August 80". The temperature will often reach
106° in the sunnner months. Irrigation can, perhaps, be
dispensed with on a certain class of soil. With respect
to Government land, much of it is on the sides of moun-
tains, called " Upper Foothills," and it has been all run
over, and the best bits picked out. It is possible, how-
ever, by taking time, and searching along the foothills
of the Sierra, to find small pieces of land on which a
home could be established. The timber is pine, cedar,
and fir. Lumber costs from 12 to 30 dollars per 1,000
feet. All lands of good quality in easily accessible
places throughout California are held by speculators.
Tiie " Immigi'ation Association " of California has been
re-organized, and placed under the superintendence of
Messrs. C. H. Street & Co., 415 Montgomery Street, San
Francisco. At their office, maps, and plats of unentered
Government land in the State can be seen, together wdth
its character ; and assistance will be furnished to persons
^ieekino- to enter for a homestead under the United States
172 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
laws. A library and reading-room is also pro\'ided,an(] it is
advisable for all persons wishiiif^ to secure land to first
visit this office.
The " Inimifi^ration Society " gives the following esti-
mates of unentered Government lands in the State.
Acres
Area of unentered Government land ... 38,000,000
Area suitable for lumbering, mining, etc., 15,000,000
Area suitable for some agriculture ... 13,000,000
Area steep, rocky, and unfit for cultivation 10,000,000
It must be understood that any Government land of
sufficiently good quality, and desirable in other respects,
which may be left, will only be found in places remote
from mai'kets and difficult of access, or of such a nature
as to require considerable labour and expense to get into
order. Even to successfully enter a piece of land of this
description, it is necessary a man should have at least
from 500 to 1000 dols., clear of his travelling ex-
penses. In addition to this, he must be prepared to
" rough it " in every way, and work for others as well as
himself; and in the majority of cases, it will be a long
and tedious strufjij^le to brino; his land into a condition
that will support him ; much will depend, however, on
the quality of the land lie may be fortunate enough to
find, and his own industry, thrift, and adaptability to the
life. On the hio-her foothills of the Sierras, tlie rain-
fall is greater, and all along this range there are chances
here and there of settling on some spot, which with
patient industry may, in the cijurse of years, support a
small family by means of mixed farming. On the
higher elevations of the Sierras, and the Siskiyou Moun-
CALIFORNIA. \>j%
tains north of " Shasta " County, innr.onse snow-falls
occur in the winter, and in some places avalanches en-
sue. Along the western base of the Sierra Nevada, for
about 300 miles, throuq;li Shasta, Tehama, Placer, Yuba,
Butte, Plumas, Nevada, El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras,
Tuolumne, Marposa, Fi-esno, Tulare and Kern Counties
and extendiuLT in lieii^ht to about 4000 feet, is a tract of
country consisting of rolling hills, narrow valleys, small
flats, plateaux, deep ravines, with rocky and steep places.
Its surface is covered with timber and brush, and it has
an abundant rainfall, north of Tuolumne County, and a
semi-troi)ical climate, with plenty of good water ; and
fruit, vegetables, and cereals wnll do well. The lands
must be cleared, however, which will be expensive.
There are chances of buying out a small improved place,
occasionally, from some one who desires to go elsewhere.
The foothills on the east side of the Coast Range extend
through Sb.asta, Tehama, Colusa, Yolo, Solano, Contra
Costa, Alameda, Stanislaus, Merced, Fresno, Tulare and
Kern Counties. In Shasta, Tehama and Colusa, much of
the land belongs to Government. There is plenty of
timber on the higher mountains, and some fair land in
places, but there is not so much rainfall, nor is the country
so well wat*;red as in the Sierras, but irrigation is, as a
rule, not necessary. To take up Government land, the
'' intention " of becoming' a citizen must be declared, and
tlie fees will amount to 22 dols. ; and at the expiration
of five years, all regulations having been complied with,
a title will be triven. In the meantime, the homestead is
free from taxation and cannot be seized for debt.
In Owen's Valley, Juyo County, land is oti'ered in large
tracts (G40 acres) at 1 dol. per acre. In the Salinos and
174 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Estrella Valleys it is said there are thousands of acres of
land fit for cultivation when irriijated. These lands are,
however, at present, remote from any market, and east
of the mountains, and may be considered semi-desert
lands. It is intended to extend a branch raih'oad from
Mogave on the Soutliern Pacific Hailroad, through Owen's
Valley, and connection will be made with the Carson and
Colorado line, which connects with Reuo on the Central
Pacific {via Virginia and Truckec Railroad).
In any of tli ^ valleys south, land or cultivated vine-
yards can be bought. Care must be exercised in pur-
chasing the latter, to find out the reason for selling, and
condition of the soil. It was estimated by the surveyor-
general of California, that there were about 3,000,000
acres of swamp and overflowed lands in the State.
These lands when reclaimed are of surpassing fertility,
and 80 bushels of wheat per acre Jiavc been raised on
land of this class. Good valley lands in California pro-
duce about 30 bushels ; recUiimed swamp lands from SJ
to 40 bushels ; but the highest average product of wheat,
taking all classes of land together, has not exceeded 20
bushels per acre. Mr. Ross Browne describes t!..ieo
classes of land in California subject to overfiow — the
tule lands, bordering on lakes and rivers ; the low alluvial
valley lands; and the salt marshes, bordering on the
shores of bays and estuaries. The tule lands derive
their name from a species of gigantic rushes which grow
upon them, forming a mass of roots and fibres that con-
tribute mainly to the growth of the land itself. For
centuries past these tules have been burnt ofi:' by the
Indians in the dry season while in search of game, and
CALIFORNIA. 175
tlio accretions formed by the roots, mingled with the
ashes, together with deposits of soil carried dow^n from
the uplands, have gradually caused them to rise above
tlie level of the ordinary water-surface. In seasons of
tlood, or by the action of tide where it prevails, they are
submerged, unless protected by levees or embankments.
The principal portions of the tule lands of the State lie
along the shores of Kern, Rio Vista, and Tulare Lakes,
south ; extending thence, northwardly, in a belt along
the San Joaquin River, as far as their junction with the
tule lands of the Sacramento, which connnence above
Red Blufi', following southwardly, both sides of the
Sacramento River, till they form the great delta into
which the two rivers are united. Mr. Browne reixards
these lands as better adapted to the production of grass
than any other crop. He believes they would be more
profitable bearing from 5 to 8 tons of alfalfa, timothy, or
blue-grass annually per acre, than they could ever be
under permanent cultivation in wheat. They will pro-
duce jute, flax, ranice, hemp and other textiles, but their
great value consists in the fact that they are some of the
finest meadow lands in the world.
As an illustration of the w^onderful productiveness of
these reclaimed lands, the ft)llowing results of actual
experiments are given : Twitchell Island, in the delta of
the Sacramento, and San Joaquin, was i)urchased by a
Kentucky company, who paid for 3000 acres 25 dollars
per acre. By the simple process of burning the tules,
feicattering the seed in the ashes, and tramping it in by
running herds of sheep over it, they planted 1,000 acres,
which gave them a gross yield of wheat amounting to
SG,00() dollars. As high as 75 bushels to the acre was
176 THE BRITISH COL ON /ST.
])ro(luced on i)articu]ai' tracts, with a general average of
40 to 50 bushels. At the Mormon settlement in the
Sacramento Valley, an average yield of 40 bushels per
acre was produced. Where crops are irrigated during
summer, the annual product is greatly increased, and
two or three alternate crops of different products pro-
duced in a season. The yield of these moist lands in
alfalfa, timoth}^, and other grasses, is enormous. Five
tons to the acre is considered an ordinary crop, while as
high as 8 tons in a single year was notliing uncommon.
At 15 dols. a ton, allowing one-half for expense of culti-
vation, baling, and shipping, a very handsome profit can
be made.
Speaking of the importance of a complete system of
irrigation, Mr. Browne says : — Irrigation is necessarily
and inseparably associated with reclamation. It would
be of couiparatively little use to reclaim from overflow
the swamji-lands of the Sacramento, or San Joaquin
Valleys, without providing at the same time an efficient
system of canals and ditches for irrigating them during
seasons of drought. The lowlands have the advanta<]:e
in retaining their moisture to a later period in the sea-
son than the uplan<ls ; but experience shows that their
productiveness is materially affected by drought, and
that no reclamation is perfect which does not include
the means of irrigation.
The ramie plant, Urtica tenacissima, was first intro-
duced into the United States by Mons. Ernest Godeaux,
French Consul in New Orleans, 18(37, and Benito Raezl,
a Bohemian botanist, once a resident of Santa Comapan,
in Mexico. Anj'^ idea of its successful cultivation seems,
subsequently, to have been abandoned. The tissues
CAUFORNTA. I77
called " Japan silk," Canton goods, grass-cloth, nankin-
linen, and many other varieties of goods, are generally
made of ramie material, mixed with other fibre more or
less. Almost all the dress goods — mixed with brilliant
materials and imitatifig silk fabrics — are made in part of
ramie. Leeds and Bradford were the principal manu-
facturing centres using this staple as a substitute for
silk in many sorts of goods. It is a common error to
consider ramie as a substitute for cotton. Ramie is a
perennial plant and semi-aquatic, cultivated in China and
India ; and the tule-lands of Califoi-nia are considered
well-adapted for its cultivation. The problem of the
successful cultivation of ramie consists in a cheap and
rapid preparation of the fibre, and this problem Mr.
Forbes of Atlanta, Georgia, thinks he has solved, ^y
his process every fibre retains its original length, and
the gum and rosin in the bark are dissolved cheaply and
quickly. The specimens recently exhibited by Mr.
Forbes are beautiful, very long and silky, and might
pass anywhere for raw silk. There is already a market
in this country for ramie, and experiments made in
various parts of the south demonstrate that it can be
successfully cultivated.
Mr. Fremerey of Texas, in Manufactiirevs Record,
gives the following method of cultivating ramie. The
seed should be first sown in a bed in March, where they
will have to be treated with some care. When they are
from 6 to 7 inches high, they are mature enough to be
transplanted to the field. The ground for a ramie
plantation should be ploughed to a depth of from eight to
ten inches, and sub -soiled to a further depth of from four
to six inches, in order to allow the tap-roots to get a
178 THE BRITISH COI.OMST.
firm start. This work done, two furrows of six inches
deep and two feet apart are ploii<i^hed,in which tlie slips are
placeil, at distances of one foot. They arc planted so
that only the leaves stand out. On each side of the
rows, a foot of ground .should be kept clear for the use
of the plants, A space of one foot on each side of the
bed is left for cultivating roads, and for irrigating pur-
poses. The plants require no further tillage than liglit
cultivating after each crop, and some weeding in the
first year. No pains should be spared at the very start,
as upon the first care the success of a plantation depends.
Soon after transplanting the phints shoidd be irrigated,
for the purpose of setting the ground firndy round the
roots.
As soon as the plants have reached a length of 15
or 16 inches, one of the sprouts of each should be bent
over in the centre of the bed, and covered with ground,
loaving some three or four inches of the top free. These
sprouts soon take root, and in a few months the whole
patch is covered with luxuriantly growing plants. The
sju'outs notbeni over have to be cut near the ground, for
the better development of the roots. By the end of
June, the stalks will have readied a height of tlireo or
four feet, when they should be cut, regardless of the
value of the fibre. New sju'outs will immediately make
their appearance, eight or ten to each root, growing so
fast as to be almost one inch long 24 hours, and furnish-
ing, in six or eight weeks, the first fair crop of fibre
stalks. Tiie propagation of ramie is done not only by
seed, but also by sprouts, cuttings, and roots. Not long
after planting, suckers will appear in the roads. These
should be cut after each crop, as the roads must be kept
CAIIFORNTA. 179
free for irrigation and swooping purposos. In the fir.st
year the ground sliould l)u kept free of weeds ; after that
the plant will pertuini this work itself, by sutfocating
them.
In the Southern States rainie hloonis during July and
August, and seed ripens in September. Mr. Fremei'ey
thus estimates tlie returns : — "An acre of hind contains
nearly 44,000 s([uare feet, on which l!0,000 ramie plants
can be grown. On a two or three-year-old plantation,
each root produces from 25 to 50, or even GO or more
stalks. I only ailmit 15 stems, growing to a length <:»f
six or seven feet. Sixty-five stalks of I'ibbons peeled
dry, or green, will j'ield one pound of marketable
ribbons (I only will admit 100 stems), at the rate of
five cents per lb. I thus figure: 20,000 plants by 15
stalks equal 800,000 stalks; 100 stalks yielding one
pound, this equals 8000 lbs. of ribbon ; at five cents per
lb., 150 dollars ; four crops per year, equal 600 dollars
gross returns per acre." Mr. Fremerey counts in the
expense of transportation to a decorticating machine at
IG dollars, and the cost of preparing four crops at 50
dollars. Mr. Walter Forbes has invented a chemical
process, which, according to all appeamnces, is a complete
success ; and if it is simple, and cheap enough to be
employed Ijy the planters themselves, this expense must
be carried largely to the profit side. Whether for
nursery purposes or for cultivation, the land must be
sufficiently elevated to receive the benefit of natural
drainaiye ; because the roots will not live Ion"" in a
watery bottom. Land that is deep, rich, light, and
moist sandy alluvia, is well-adapted for th's purpose.
The area of fertile lands in the magnificent Joaquin
1 8 ) THE nR/T/sii cor. ON/S T.
Valley, is nearly 7,000,000 acres. At the southern end of
this valley, in Kei-n County, is situated the " Miranionte
Colony Association." Kern County has an area of 8100
square miles, one-third of whicli is in the southern end
of the Joacjuin Valley, and the rest consists of portions of
the Siena and Coast Range Mountains, and j)art of
the Mojave Desert. An extensive system of the Artesian
wells is being inaugurated here for the purposes of
irrigation. Some of these wells are said to be delivering
from 500,000 to even 2,000,000 t^-alloi.s a ^\ay. The
lands of this " Colony " are being ottered at 000 dollars
for 20 aci'es, including a perpetual water rii;ht for irriga-
ting and domestic use, on the usual three-year-payment
system, with six per cent, interest. The Southern Pacific
passes througli this country for 117 miles, and C. H.
Street & Co., 415 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, are
the agents for this and the other colonies mentioned. It
is not to be assumed that much, if any, of the land offered
is of the fertile description of that in the choice valleys
of California. Although much of the semi-desert lands
may with irrigation be made productive, it requires
something more than water to give good results, and t!ie
depth and nature of the soil must be critically examined
before investing. Oranges, lemons, pears, peaches, anri-
cots, nectarines, prunes, ])omegranates, olives, figs, and
grapes ; also almonds, apples, and walnuts, are produced.
The culture of raisin-grapes, white Adriatic figs, peaches,
apricots, or Bartlet pears are recommended in this
colony, as also vegetables and alfalfa. No doubt, efforts
will be made to palm oflf comparativel}^ worthless tracts
of land under the irrigation system. Inferior soil is dear
at any price, inasmuch as the expenses of improvement
CALirORUlA. iSi
are ('(lUfiUy as ^ruat, and the results will nut be satis-
factory.
Mr. Ekin Smith, in a re])ort to the California State
A;,a-icultnral Society on the choice of hinds for vineyards,
says:— I purpose to confine myself to the consideration
of vineyards for wine makinj^, rather than for niarket-
giapes, since the value of the latter for tlic market is
governed more hy size and appearance than hy inlierent
qualities ; and the very circumstances wliich ])roduce
size and appearance are often detrimental to the wine.
Ahnost any locality in the interior of California can be
made to produce fine market grapes. Not so for wine.
First-class localities are comparatively scarce, and the
area limited. Without doubt any vineyard can be im-
proved by cultivation, but unless the physical aspect
ond chemical i)roperties of the soil are favourable, a first-
class wine cannot bo produced. A soil rich in decom-
posed organic matter will often produce grapes of a fine
ajipearance, but the wine will have an earthy taste.
This fact alone excludes almost all bottom lands from
the list of good localities. Sands have not this objection,
but are nearly destitute of mineral salts, and therefore
cannot produce a high-flavoured wine. But the great-
est of all evils is an undue quantity of potash, and this
objection lies against nearly all lands not having suflScient
drainage, and many hills, whose bed rock is composed
largely of felspar. Common felspar contains from 12
to 15 per cent, of potash, and enters into the composition
of many of the rocks of our foothills. Granite, gneiss,
and mica slate, contain about 40 per cent, of felspar,
which decomposes on exposure and sets free the potash.
Where the hills are steep, and the drainage perfect, the
I §2 THE BKITJSII COLONIST.
evil is not so great, as the potash passes off in a soluble
condition. Potash is an element of fertility, and grape
vines absorb it largely, and tliiive and jDioduce abun-
dantly with it in excess, but its effect upon the wine is
pernicious. One of the prime essentials of good wine is
tartai", and where potash is also present in solution, they
readily combine and form a salt which is deposited on
tlie sides of the cask. From this salt tartaric acid is
made, instead of remaining in the w^ine, and we wait in
vain for a fine flavour to be developed ; it is neutralised
by the potash. Lime is also an alkaloid, but having
great affinity for carbon, is generally found as a
carbonate; and while it is not desirable in excess, to
make a still wine, is indispensable to make a first-class
champagne, from the large amount of carbonic acid it
affords. Soils having a substratum of magncsian lime-
stone are not open to tliese objections, for although
magnesia, is an alkaloid, it is not soluble in water, and
not known to enter into the composition of plants ; but
it is less fertile, and vines do not bear so abundantly.
All lands having a subsoil of clay are objectionable ; the
roots will not penetrate it, and the vines are likely to
suffer from drought, and it generally contains too much
potash, as the clay is decomposed felspar. The richest
lands in California, now all in a high state of cultivation,
will be found in the regions of the old Missions established
by the Catholic priests, ranging from the year 1769 to
1830. Each Mission was then a little principality, with
its 100,000 acres, and perhaps 20,000 head of cattle.
The tables of th.e padres were abundantly supplied with
fruits, vegetables, and wines, and the stranger was
entertained with unbounded hospitality. The old
CALIFORSIA. 1^3
Missions are as follows : San Rafael and San Francisco;
Solano, north of San Francisco Bay ; Dolores, near San
Francisco ; Santa Clara and San Josu, near Pueblo San
Jose ; San Juan ; Santa Cruz and Carniol, near Monterey;
Soledad ; San Antonio and San Mii^aiel, in the valley of
Salinas River ; San Louis Obispo ; La Purisinia, Santa
Yuez ; Santa Barbara, and San l^ucnvcntura, near
Santa Barbara ; San Gabriel and San Fernando,
near Los Angelos; and San Louis Rey, Sun Juan,
Capistrano, and San Diego, on the coast south of Los
Angelos.
The valley of San Jose in the Coast Ranfj^e has the
finest climate of any in California. It is 00 miles in
length, and contains about 320,000 acres of splendid
soil. From the summit of El Toro a magnificent view
of the valley is obtained, and the ascent can be made on
a sure-footed animal (about 45° acclivity). The valleys
of Sonoma, Napa, Bodega and most of the Sacramento
Valley, are equally favoured as to fertility, but those
adjacent to the coast have by far the best climate ; but
it will require a considerable amount of capital to secure
a farm in these favoured regions ; from 500 to 1000 dols.
per acre.
After California was organised into a territory the
wealth and power of tliese Missions excited the jealousy
of the Government, and by a decree of the Supreme
Government of Mexico in 1833, the Missions of Upper
and Lower California were secularised and became
public property. The following series of tables furnished
by the United States Signal Corps exhibit the tempera-
ture of the four citron belts of the Northern Hemi-
sphere.
184 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
ITALIAN CITRUS BELT.
Average
Average
Lowest
Places.
Yearly Temp.
Winter Temp.
Temp.
Naples,
61-3
48-5
Rome,
60-7
48-9
Florence, ...
58-8
44-3
Pisa,
60-4
46-4
Genoa,
CO-4
44-9
San Rcnio,
601
48-9
230
Mentone, ...
60-9
49
230
Nice,
59o
47-8
—
Cannes,
595
49-6
200
SEMI-TROPIC FLORIDA.
Jacksonville,
69-5
■ • •
58-7
190
Pensacola,
68-4
• • •
55-7
160
Sandford,
710
...
58-0
28-0
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA CITRUS BELT
1
Poway,
50-3
• • «
50-2
• • •
210
Riverside,
610
• • *
50-4
• • •
17-0
Los Angelos,
60-5
• • •
500
...
23-0
Santa Barbara, ... Cl"l
• ■ •
540
• • •
300
CITRUS BELT OF THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY.
Sacramento,
60-2
48-3
180
Auburn, ...
59-7
46-2
180
Colfax,
59-5
460
18-0
Nicolaus, ...
620
50-9
180
Marysville,
64-2
500
18-0
y Princeton,
S Oroville, ...
62-8
48-2
180
64-9
520
200
Chico,
63-8
47
180
Red Bluff,
62-4
46-8
180
Redding, ...
63-8
47-8
180
Number of Orange Trees planted in Beetle County (and other
fruits), North California —
riaces. Oranges. Lemons. Olives.
Oroville District, ... 20,816 ],581 3,808
Palermo „ ... 40,348 5,124 13,646
CALIFORNIA.
iS
Places.
Thennalito District,
Oranges.
32,370
Lemons.
10
Olives.
5,181
Wyandotte ,,
. ..
815
57
7,800
Paradise ,,
—
5,600
94,349
6,772
36,035
Places.
Oroville District,
Figs.
940
Nuts.
130
Deciduous.
16,550
Grapes.
52,200
Palermo ,,
3,200
—
79,701
77,480
Thermalito ,,
961
859
5,843
6,722
Wyandotte ,,
3,105
30.i
13,697
20,579
Paradise , ,
—
—
Rio Bonita ,,
85,000
8,206 1,291 200,431 156,981
Shipments of Oranges from Southern Calif crnia, on authority
of Riverside Press, for 1888-89,
San Bernadino County,
• • • •
292,180 boxes.
Los Angelos
If •>! ...
400,547 „
Orange
»» •
» • • • •
92,896 „
Ventura
»»
• • • •
Total
10,886 „
796,409 „
Va
luel
SS]\
:o Growers,
1,373,716 dollars.
ASSE
LENT SCHEDULE FOR 1889.
No.
of Acres of (
! rape-vines Planted.
Places.
Table.
Wine.
llaisins. Total.
Alameda,
250
3,345
— 3,595
Alpine,
...
—
—
Amador,
. . .
40
950
— 990
Butte,
• . .
506
111
295 912
Calaveras,
• . •
200
1,180
20 1,400
Colusa,
• * •
531
21
552
Contra Costa,
350
3,450
3,800
■ Del Norte,
. . •
6
6
El Dorado,
« . •
300
1,485
1,785
Fresno,
. ..
183
3,800
12,182 16,165
Humbolt,
• • •
—
—
— —
Juyo,
« »t
16
26
41
Kern,
*»«
—
—
— 100
ig6 7 HE BRITISH COLONIST.
No.
of Acres of
Grajie-vines
Planted.
Places.
Table.
Wine.
Kaisius.
Total.
Lake,
450
950
1,400
Lassen,
—
—
Los Angolos,
—
—
—
Marin,
—
Mariposa,
—
—
64
Mendocino,
—
—
—
200
Merced,
200
400
1,460
2,060
Modoc,
—
—
—
—
Monter<3y,
500
—
—
500
Nfipa,
2G5
13,630
13,895
Nevada,
—
215
Placer,
1,814
380
484
2,678
Plumas,
—
Sacramento, . . .
1,525
5,138
225
6,888
San Bento,
17
133
150
San Bernadino,
—
13,787
San Diego,
609
278
4,107
4,994
San Francisco,
— ■
—
—
—
San Joaquin, . . .
920
1,107
429
2,456
San Louis Obispo,
432
426
—
858
San Mateo,
80
700
780
Santa Barara,
—
543
Santa Clara, ...
—
—
—
11,375
Santa Cruz, ...
320
1,025
1,345
Shasta,
99
140
147
386
Sierra,
—
—
—
Siskiyon,
—
—
4
Solano,
—
2,IG0
Sonoma,
1,075
20,805
—
21,880
Stanislaus,
—
550
Sutter,
94
51
504
049
Tehama,
427
2,145
2,572
Trinity,
200
—
200
Tulai-e,
4,350
2,495
6,845
Tuolumne,
925
Ventura,
—
—
Yolo,
800
2,000
1,200
4,000
Yuba,
—
215
Total 16,563 66,176 21,063 135,305
CALIFORNIA. i8;
The total number of fruit trees "rowins: in North and
Central California is about 9,000,000 ; and in South
California, 3,000,000. Nearly all the trees planted in
North and Central California are in the great valley
and foothill region ; including some on the coast. Only
about 200,000 are returned from mountain re<xions. No
return of trees was made by the Los Angclos County
Assessor. It is claimed by the Los Angelos Chamber of
Commerce that 40,000 acres have been planted. This
would require nearly 4,000,000 trees.^
Cost varies with the kind of trees, location, soil, etc.
Some come into bearing sooner tlian others; some cost
more at the nursery ; others require more care. In Santa
Clai'a County the period of full-bearing is placed at seven
years. Peaches and apricots bear crops at nuich younger
ages, while all trees increase their bearing capacity up to
20 years. The cost stated is on a seven-year-old orchard ;
and the average expense is as follows : —
FiKST Year.
DLS. C'TS,
Breaking Ground, ... ... ... ... 3 00
Levelling Ground, ... ... ... 1 00
Laying ort", digging holes, and planting, ... 6 50
Cost of Trees (108 to the acre, 20 feet apart), ... 21 60
Ten Cultivations, ... ... ... ... 5 00
Four Harrowings and Clod Crushing, ... 1 00
Pruning, ... ... ... ... ... 1 50
Total First Year, 41 10
Second Year.
Ploughing, ... ... ... ... 2 00
Ten Cultivations, ... ... ... ... 5 00
1 "Cost of Making and Keeping an Orchard until Bearing."-
(California Board of Trade.)
1 88 THE BRiriSH COLOmST.
Kl.S.
CTH.
Harrowing, four times,
1
00
Digging round Trees,
1
00
Pruning, ...
1
50
Total Second Year,
10
00
Third Year.
Ploughing, Harrowing, Cultivating, &c.,
8
00
Digging round Trees,
1
ho
Pruning, ...
2
00
Total Third Year, 11 50
Fourth Year.
Ploughing, Harrowing, Cultivating, Digging, itc., 50
Pruning, ... ... ... ... ... 2 25
Total Fourth Year, 11 75
Fifth and Sixth Years.
Cost will be the same, except a little more for Pruning,
which Avill be 3 dols. ; or for the fifth year, 12
• dols. 50 c. ; and sixth year, 12 dols. 50 c.
Total cost, per acre, at six years old, 99 dols. 85 c.
Numerous nursery catalogues this year place nearly
all deciduous trees at 15 dols. per 100, and many as low
as 100 dols. per 1000. There is a great difference in the
cost of preparing lands. Heavy lands cost the most.
Sandy loam much less.
Profit is not generally so great, per acre, from a large
orchard, as from a small one, proportionately. Some
varieties come into bearing earlier than others, and at
seven years will have produced more than those that
mature slowly. This is notably true of peaches and
apricots. Prunes come next in order of maturity, and
cherries later.
Apricots — Ten acres of apricots (Mr. Righter), at four
CALIFORNIA. 189
years old, yielded 75 dols. per acre. At five, six, and
seven years old, including short crop, the avera<:(e yield
per year lias been (for ten aeies) 1,G()0 dols. Ten acres
of apricots (Mr. Snyder), at five years old, yielded 800
dols.
Prunes — Three acres, seven years old, gave 3l> vous ;
sold for 1,200 dols.
Mixed Orchard — Six acres (a variety), at five years
old, yielded 700 dols.
Ten acres of peaches, prunes, and apricots, four years
old, yielded 150 dols. per acre. — (L. L. Natingcr.)
Larger returns are well authenticated : GOO dols. per
acre from prunes ; 1,^00 duls. per acre from cherries ; and
500 and 700 dols. from peaches; but the Report classes
them as exce]}tional.
It is the opinion of the San Jose Board of Trade,
submitting this Report, that the State cannot produce
more fruit than will find ready markets ; provided tlie
cost of transportation does not enhance the price to the
consumer, so as to prohibit its use to a large majority of
people.
The Report of the Los Angelos Chamber of Commerce
says, " that orange trees (budded) bear, with proper care,
in four years, and yield 100 do's, per acre on the fourth
year." Discarding phenomenal returns, it is safe to say
that from 506 to 800 dols. per acre are realised, under
favourable conditions ; and from orchards in full-bearing,
under favourable circumstances, from 1000 dols. to 1,500
dols. have been realised. The profits of deciduous
orchards should yield, with intelligent management, 100
dols. per acre. The Report states that they can grow
fruit against the world ; but the profits depend on the
I90 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
rates charged for sliipmont. The Report further states
tliat a hxrge amount of land awaits purcliaseis at fair
prices. At the World's Fair in New Orleans, in 1886,
the Riverside Fruit Company, it is stated, took first
premium for the best collection, not less thj.n twenty
varieties from any State or foreign country. (It is to
be noted that California oranges come in after the
" Florida crop " is over, and tliere were probably no
others to compete with.) Of the 1,000,000 trees returned
by county assessors in 1860, as planted in the State, 95
per cent, were accredited to three counties — Los Angelos^
San Bernadino, and San Diego.
The range for the production of a fine quality of
oranges in California is limited to the coast region, and
the rich alluvial, or other soils, not parched by the dry,
hot winds of the interior. The orange flourishes best in
a warm, rich soil, composed of sand and loam, or sand
and clay, not too dry, and sheltered from chilly and
" parching " winds ; and it will thrive in any countiy
with a mean annual temperature of 62° to 84°. The
locality, favourable for its growth, depends fully as
much on the soil and situation, as upon latitude ; and if
the temperature be sufficiently high for maturing the
flavour, the fruit is delicious in proportion to the
uniform salubrity of the air, and those high tempera-
tures which often force a large expansion of fruit,
deteriorate its quality. " It is remarkable how much
cold and snow the common oranges and lemons will
bear at Rome, provided they are planted in a sheltered
situation, not much exposed to the sun." (Dr. Seckler.)
The Riverside District in the San Bernadino Valley is
subjected to a temperature of 110° in tlie summer, and in
CALIFORNIA. 191
the country (except where irrio-ated) everyt)ilng is
parched with the lieat. A fine-tlavoiircd oraiifje is not
likely to bo produced here, or in other similar places.
In comparing the quality of the oranges produced on the
Island of St. Michael's, in the Azores ; and of Bahia, in
Brazil, or some of the other West India Islands, with
those of Malta, lying near the arid and sultry coast of
Africa, it is to be noted that the former is always
exposed to t'je equalizing breezes wafted across the
Atlantic, while the latter is subject to more changes
of season, and a higher range of temperature. At St.
Augustine, Florida, a person who was the owner of a
hundred standard trees, could safely rely on a yearly
income of 2,000 dols., sometimes 8,000 dols. There
were gathered from a single tree 6,500 oranges, but
ordinary trees produce about 2000. At St. Augustine,
the orange is of a superior quality, owing to some
peculiar influence of soil and climate. The mean
annual temperature of that place is from 72° to 73°. The
extreme heats, from June to September, are usually as
high as 02" ; but they have been known to have
reached 97°. The extremes of cold generally range
from 38" to 40, but is sometimes as low as 30°. On
the 0th of February, 1835, the temperature fell, it is
said, to 10° or 15°, and nearly all the orange trees were
cut off by frost. On the morning of the 9th January,
17G5, the thermometer stood at 26 at St. Augustine,
and the ground was frozen to the depth of an inch on
the banks of the St. John.
BROWNE — TREES OF AMERICA.
The cost of producing wines. Mr. Haraszthy, of
Califoi'nia, estimates as follows : The average production
I9a THE BRITISH COLONIST,
through tho State is about throe tons per acre, which
when made into wine, and kept till one year old, will
yield an average of about 400 gallons.
The cost of cultivation varies in different localities
from 10 to 14 dols. per acre, which does not include the
expense of fertilisers, or insecticides. The cost of gather-
ing the grapes, and delivering them to the winery is
estimated at two dols. per ton, or an average based on
the above-mentioned yield, of dols. per acre.
The cost of crushing the grapes, and making them
into wine, is about two cents a gallon, or eight dollars
for an acre. This does not include tiie storage and
handling after the wine is fermented and dravv^n into
casks, nor of insurance, nor interest on the investment in
vines, permanent improvements and casks. This shows
a cost of 28 dols. for the production of 400 gallons,
" average of the State," on one acre, or seven cents per
gallon. It would seem that wine-growing in California
should be profitable, after adding most liberally to the
cost for items not embraced above. Mr. Haraszthy gives
a table of prices realised upon wines shipped from 187-5
to 1887. This table shows an average of 55"7 cents per
gallon, the highest being 62 cents, in 1876, and the
lowest 45 cents, in 1887. " Unfortunately, our wine
interests are so controlled by middlemen that the pro-
ducer does not get his share of the profits ; but time
and better organisation among growers will remedy this."
Mr. Haraszthy has omitted the connnission of the for-
warding agent, and the expense of transporting the wine
to the commission merchant, as well as the other items
in the expense of producing wine. It is doubtful if the
producer nets over 25 cents a gallon under the most
CALIFORNIA. 193
favourable circiinistanccs. Aftin* passinsj throiijijli several
coinmission liousos, tlie wine is sold in California, and
Oregon, at from 5 cents to 10 dollars per f^allon, in small
casks. By the time it reaches the consumer, in the
Eastern States, 2 dollars 50 cents a gallon is the price, al-
though the freight is only ahout 15 cents per gallon at ti»e
most.
The wholesale prices of the v^arious grades of Cali-
fornia wines in New York are as follows :
Sherry,
per gal.
« •• • • • •
Dollars.
01)0 to 1-50
Port,
>»
••• ••• •
000 „ 1-50
Muscatel,
>i
••• ata •
0!)0 „ 2-25
Angelica,
u
. . • ...
0-00 „ 2-25
Cliiret,
) J
in bris. only,
0-00 „ 075
Rhine Wine,
)>
»'
0-75 „ 1-00
PURE CALIFORNIA DRY WINES.
Superior Quality.
Wines of the Edge Hill Wine Co., St. Helena, Cal.
Dols.
Sautern, (2 doz. pints), per case, ... 5 '50
8-00
4-00
G-50
4-50
... 1000
0-90
0-90
OGO
1-00
CALIFORNIA BRANDY.
In original packages of 10 gals, (sup.) per gal. ... 3 "00
American Cognac, per gal. ... ... 1*75 to 3 '50
vjiijiiiun v^iitiis,-)uia>9.
»>
Cabinet Hoch,
>)
Cabinet Burgundy,
>>
Selected Clarets,
»
Tokay,
»>
DRY
WINES (in
bulk),
Linfaudel, Claret, per gal.
• • •
Riesling, White Wine,
>»
• • •
Claret,
>»
• • •
Burgundy,
ji
• • t
194 ^^^^ BRITISH COLONIST.
IMPORTED CJIAMPAONK.
DoM.
Jules Mumm &, Co., Grand Sec, per chso, (its., ... 20 00
Cliqu'it, yellow and white label „ „ ... 29 "00
DOME.STIC C'lIAMrAONE.
Imperial, per cfi so, qts., GOO
„ with " imported capsules " per case,
qts. 7'00
Wines of Rev. S. Parisis, New Mexico.
By the barrel, per gal. ... 1*40
Wines of John Moran, Los Angoloa, Cal.
By the barrel, per gal 95
Mr. Ross Browne remarks that he has seen wine re-
tailinor in San Francisco at 1 dollar 50 cents a bottle, while
it sold at Los Angelos for 40 cents a gallon, or eicrlit cents
a bottle ; 'grapes sold at eight and ten cents a pound,
while the producer got only 75 cents a hundred ; and
fruit thrown into the Bay of San Francisco, because the
fruit dealers could not sell it fast enough at five cents a
pound, while the fruit growers would be glad to sell it
at 30 dollars a ton. Boxes of choice fruit can be pur-
chased of the jobbing dealers at San Francisco for two
to two and a half cents per lb. What does the producer
get now, not over one cent probably, and this fruit
(grapes) is retailed to the consumers in the Eastern
States at 20 to 25 cents per lb., the freight bciing about
one and a half cents per lb. No people on the face of
the earth submit to systematic robbery with such
patience as the American farmers do. It seems well-
nigh impossible to form an}' proper combination amongst
them for their own protection, they are so disunited by
party political strife, and every advantage is taken by
CALIFORNIA. I9S
unscrupulous politicians, who wish t(i provout any unity
of action.
"Dried fruit" is now roccivin;; much attoiition in
California. The yi(!l<l of an aero of raisin grapes at four
years old is estimated at 30 Ihs. per vine; 4J>5 vines to
the acre, equal to six and a half tons per acre, equal to
aljout two tons of raisins makintj: 200 20-lb. boxes. Tlio
market value is f^iven at two dollars per box, giving 400
dollars per acre. From this sliouhl be deducted another
" commission," and the cost of cultivation and prepara-
tion, which would be about 50 dollars per acre. An effort
is beino; made to show that California raisins are now
even of superior quality to the best imported.
The California State Board of Trade publishes the
following from the Pall Mall Gazette of Sept. 5tli, 1889 :
" jTAc Anglo-Ainerican Times reports that 4,000 boxes
of California raisins sent last autumn to London, brought
better prices than the famous layers from Malaga, and
as a happy consequence orders have come to California
from Amsterdam, Vienna and Australia." The importa-
tions of foreign fruits and wines into the United States
for 188G-S7 were: Raisins, 40,000,003 lbs.— twice the
yield of California ; figs, 8,752,898 ; prunes, from Bor-
deaux alone, 840,299,19 dollars worth. Wine imports,
valued at port of shipment, 7,050,850 dollars worth. Of
nuts imported there were 20,008,480 dollars ; of oranges,
1,741,044 boxes ; and of lemons, 2,281,087 boxes for the
year 1880-87.
From Messrs. Thurber, Whyland tfe Co.'s prices current,
New York, 1889, the following quotations are made :
" Finest Dehesia Layers, 22-lb. boxes, crowns, 7
dollars ; California raisins, crop 1889, Layers, imperial,
196 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Forsyth, 20 lb. boxes, 2 dollars 75 cents. Mr. C. H. Street
& Co. give a market value in San Francisco of 2 dollars
per box for what they call the ordinary commercial
raisins, leaving oidy 75 cents per box for freight and
commissions before sold in New York. California prunes,
best, are 13 cents, and best French, 15^ cents per lb.
So far, California dried fruits are not equal in quality
to imported fruits ; the seeds are too largo and the
skins too thick, and they lack the flavour. Probably a
much larger profit can be made on the domestic fruits
by the dealers, but considerable improvement must take
place in the quality of the former before they can sup-
plant imported fruits.
The shipments of green fruit from California to States
east of the Rocky Mountains for 1887 were :
Net weight exclusive of package, ... 11,303,020 lbs.
Gross receipts, ... 075,804 •40 dols.
Freight paid, ... 283-033 'SO dols.
Cartage, 0-002 "40 ,,
Commissions, ... 07 '254 '40 ,,
Gross Charges, 350-289 -85
>>
Total net returns, ... 319'574-85 dols.
This shows a net average of 2'8 cents per lb. by the
producer, less the expenses of cultivation, etc., eto.
It must be noted that only the best quality of green
fruits can be exported from California, and it is doubtful
if a sale can be made at all of a considerable part of the
production, as any but the best would not pay for the
freight and commissions.
The quality of California fruit. — All the green fruit
California. 197
shipped cast is picked before ripe, and for that reason
alone is of inferior flavour. Under the most favourable
circumstances the fruit of California is inferior in flavour
to that grown in the eastern States. The peaches and
pears of Delaware and New Jersey especially are of much
superior quality in a favourable season.
The vegetables grown in California, while of immense
size, and of particularly fine appearance, are very inferior
in flavour to those of the eastern and northern States.
Meat also is of inferior flavour, and vegetables, fruits,
and moat in Oregon, and Washington, are of supeiior
quality to those produced in California. Both in Or^^gon
and California thei'c is a quantity of ordinary fruit, every
year, that is not saleable. Nurserymen supply inferior
trees, and fi'uit culture is engaged in by persons who do
not understand it. There always will be a demand for
a superior (|uality of fruit, and fruit culturists should
spare no pains, or expense, in starting an orchard on
proper principles, and with the best varieties of fruit.
The labour question is one of much importance in the
fruit regions of California. The " Chinese Exclusion
Act " will deprive the fruit growers of the cheap and
efficient labour of the Chinamen, on which they have so
far been principally dependent. The immense area of
20,519,920 acres in Southern California is considered
adapted for cotton. It requires little moisture, and is
well adapted for irrigation. The growing season is
long, dry and warm, and the gathering may extend to
January. The expense of cultivating is not greater than
that of corn, except picking. The yield in the State has
averaged \ of a bale per acre. There are thousands of
acres of land on the Lower Sacramento suitable for the
igd THE BRITISH CO? ^iV/S7'.
production of rice, but w'tliout cheap labour tlie.se crops
are not likely to be m ucli engaged in.
Dr. Gustav Eisen of Delano gives the following
estimate of the cost and profits of figs. Cost of trees at
tlie start, 15 dols. per acre, with exjienses of cultivation
about the same as given for other fruit.
ESTIMATE OF llETURNS FROM 10 ACRES OF FIGS.
Trees set out at one-year-old.
DOLS.
At the end of first season, 10 acres, 700 trees, - 000 00
„ second season, ,, „ 10 lbs.
each, at 2} cents, . . . . 175 00
„ third season, ,, ,, 50 lbs.
each, at 21 cents, _ . . . 875 00
„ fourth season, ,, ,, 100 lbs.
each, at 2^ cents, 70,000 lbs., - - 1,750 00
Total 2,800 00
At the end of the sixth season, 700 trees give 400
lbs. each, 280,000 lbs., at 2\ cents, equal 7,000
This is a very encouraging statement, but so far
California figs are not in the market to any extent, and
are not quoted at all. In the crystallised form, a few
are sold at about 7 cents per lb. in 5 lb. cartons — in
eastern markets. Supposing a settler commences with
20 acres of fruit land, it will require, at least, an ex-
penditure of 4000 dols. in four years, including expenses of
building small cottage, and all other items, to take him
safely to the end of this term, when he begins to get an
adequate return from his fruit, and henceforth he may,
under favourable circumstances, get a net return of from
10 to 15 per cent, on his invested capital. This will,
however, depend upon his judgment in the management of
CALIFORNIA, 199
Lis oichard. In all cases where a man has no practical
knowledf^e of fruit culture, he should place his money in
a '' Savings Bank " on interest, and work on some good
fruit farm, managed by an experienced and intelligent
man, for one year. He can in the meantime select, or
even invest in, a suitable piece of land for his own place.
By adopting this plan he will avoid the very serious
mistakes he is otherwise likely to make.
Descending from the summit of the Sierra Nevada
Mountains, tlie first view of tlie Sacramento Valley is
very impressive, but the grandest view of all is to be
obtained from the summit of the Butte Mountain in the
country between Cosumne and Mokclumne, whose ram-
parts of red volcanic rock tower 1000 feet. Its ascent
is toilsome, but not very difficult, at an angle of 45°.
Situated about half-way between the plain and the
dividing ridge of the Sierra Nevada, its summit affords
a view of the whole country. The mountains within
ten miles usually have snow on their crests, and the
Sierra Nevada range is only 30 miles distant. At the
base of the Butte the old minino; c-ulches lie. On the
west, the horizon is bounded by the Coast Range, Monte
Diablo in the centre, and Suisun Bay making a gap in
the chain. Between this blue wall and the rough region
at the base, lie the great plains of the Sacramento and
San Joaquin, 50 miles in breadth, and visible for more
than 100 miles. The city of Sacramento is charmingly
laid out, the streets runninfj at ri^-ht andes with avenues
of oak and sycamore, affording much needed shade, for
this is a veritable furnace in summer ; the thermometer
has evcn reached 120", and ague, bilious fever, and
dysentery prevail, and mosquitos never die (hardly
J6d 7 HE BKrnsH COLONIST.
ever). From Sacrainoiito the view on all sides is over a
level plain, intersected with groves of timber, and
bounded on the east and west by the distant ranges of
the Coast and Sierra Nevada Mountains. The brilliantly
illuminated streets of Sacramento at ni<i;ht and the soft,
cool atmosphere are very fascinating to the traveller who
arrives at that time, but after a little experience of the
heat of the ensuing day, he will probably wish to move
onto the sea' coast. In the early days of Sacramento
the perils of traversing the streets by night are thus
described. *' Each man wore boots reaching to the knees
— or higher, if he could get them — with trousers tucked
inside ; but there were pitfalls into which, had he fallen,
even these would have availed him little. In the more
frequented streets, where drinking and gambling had
full swing, there was a partial light, sti'eaming out
through doors and crimson window-cuitains, to guide
his steps. Sometimes a platform of plank received his
feet ; sometimes he skipped from one loose barrel-stave
to another, laid with convex side upward ; and some-
times deceived b}^ a scanty piece of scantling, he walked
off its farther end into a puddle of liquid mud. Now
floundeiing in the stiff mire of the mid-street, he plunged
down into a gully, and was ' brought up ' by a pool of
water ; now venturing near the houses, a scafibld-pole
or stray beam dealt him an unexpected blow. If he
wandered into the outskirts of the town, where the
tent-city of the emigrants was built, his fate was still
worse. The brieiy thickets of the original forest had
not been cleared away, and the stumps, trunks and
branches of felled trees were distributed over the soil
with delightful uncertainty. If he escaped these, the
CALIFORNIA. , 201
lariats of picketed mules spread their toils for his feet,
threatening:^ entanglement and a kick from one of the
vicious animals ; tent-ropes and pins took him across the
shins, and the horned heads of cattle, left where tliey
were slaughtered, lay ready to gore him at every step.
Tn the main streets the revelry of miners and gamblers
continued far into the night by the light of candles at
four dollars a pound ; the discordant sounds of brass
bands and innumerable ' musical ' instruments, added
to the oaths, wrangling, and pistol shots of drunken
revellers, made night hideous," The Sacramento (lower)
varies from 200 to 300 yards in width, and after rain,
when everything is green, the banks are very i)retty,
Benicia, at the mouth of the Sacramento, 33 miles by
rail and 50 by sea from San Francisco, is a very pretty
place. The country gradually slopes back from the
water, and the Napa and Sonoma Valleys back of it
form one of the most fertile agricultural districts in
California.
The Sierra Nevada Range, in Southern California, is
composed of a number of parallel minor ranges. The
higher elevations are mostly bare and rocky, but the
summits are more or less covered with })ine and Alpine
oak. Moisture is more abundant, and streams more
copious in the higher elevations ; but the wider coast
valleys are, during the greater portion of the year, desti-
tute of running water ; the supply from occasional
springs being evaporated in the very dry atmosphere.
The altitude of the summit ridges varies from 3,000 to
5,000 feet. There is a scanty growth of pines and other
coniferce. Descending fiom the summit, small, luxuri-
antly-grassed valleys, fringed with scattered pine and
262 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
oak groves, and watered by small streams, which arc
occupied by setthu's, are passed. A descent to a lower
level brings you into wider basin- shaped valleys, bounded
on all sides by rocky ridge-:. The streams spread out
into sedgy marshef^, and the pine growtli is replaced by
lowland oak and inderbrush. In the summer season
you wind down broad valleys with the dry, pebbly beds
of winter streams ; heritage is dry and wirj'^, and water
confined to a few willow-shaded marshes, or isolated
springs. Along the footliills in this region large colonics
of bees are kept, and immense quantities of honey are
sent east from California. Continuing west, by a series
of undulations and abrupt descents, you pass, almost im-
perceptibly, the various ranges, till the smooth, brown
outline of the Coast Range is reached. There is a lieavy
grade here for a short distance and then a rapid descent
is made to San Diego. In a distance of 26 miles, after
leaving the summit, a descent is made into the celebrated
San Bei'nadino Valley, 50 miles long and 30 wide. It is
fertilised by numerous streams, rising in tlie surrounding
mountain ranges. Extending nearly due west to Los
Angel o.^, this is the most fruitful region of Southern
California, and very high prices were asked for fruit
lands and established oichards during the " boom " fever,
the last attack of which was so severe. On the western
slope of the Sierras the various streams are remarkable
more for their number than magnitude. Their sources
are near the summit, their volume being dependent on
local rains and melted snows ; they are at their height
towards the end of the rainy season. As the dry season
advances they decrease in volume rapidly, till in July,
at their mouths, they become absorbed in their porous,
CALIFORNIA. 20j
sandy beds. Some few streams, which have their
sources in the hioher mountains, with a more equal sup-
ply of water, are excepted. The point at which the
water ceases to flow in these streams is variable, and
greatly influenced by the excessive evaporating^ power
of tlie hot, dry atmosphere. Duiin<:j the night they flow
farther down their channels, also more so in cloudy than
clear weather ; but in their bods water can usually be
found a short distance below the surface. The descent
of these streams in the rainy season may either be by a
gradual process of saturation of their sandy beds, or it
may be sudden.
After a stormy night, the San Diego River suddenly
made its appearance in the form of a foaming body of
water, moving steadily onward, and filling its banks to
their brim. The streams of the whole of Southern and
Lower California, with few exceptions, have the peculi-
arity of retiring into their sandy beds for the summer.
There are, occasionally, springs in the lowest portions of
valleys which furnish water for a limited area, and the
mission of the very fertile San Louis Rey depended
upon these for their fertility. The San Bernadino
Mountains, wliicli give the name to the valley mentioned,
has the highest peak in California, C,000 feet, and is
about 40 miles from the ocean. Farther north, the space
between the mountains and the coast becomes wider,
sometimes reaching 80 miles. The most important of
the inferior ridoes extends from Mount San Bernadino
to the south side of the entrance of the Bay of San
Francisco ; there called the San Bruno Mountains. Be-
tween this and the coast is the Santa Barbara Range,
terminating at the Cape of Pines, on the south-west sida
2(54 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
of the Bay of Monterey. Bordering on the Bay of San
Francisco is the Bolbona Ridge. The principal harbours
of CaUfornia are the Bay of San Francisco, one of the
finest in the world, Monterey, San Pedro, Santa Barbara,
and San Diego — Santa Barbara is a very pretty place,
528 miles from San Francisco and 110 miles north of
Los Angelos. The harbour of Santa Barl)ara is exposed
to the violence of south-westerly storms. San Pedro is
sheltered from the north-west, but open to the south-
westerly storms. Twenty-five miles inland is the city of
Los Angelos, and 12G miles to the south, by the Southern
California line, is San Diego. The Bay of San Diego
runs 10 miles eastwardly into the country, and is separ-
ated from the ocean by a flat, sandy island, on which is
situated the " Coronado Hotel," a large structure cover-
ing some acres of ground, and one of the noted winter
resorts of the Pacific Coast. By means of water con-
ducted in pipes across the harbour, irrigation is supplied,
and grass and shrubs cultivated. There are a number of
pretty private residences, and it is a very pleasant resort
for the residents of San Diesjo durino; the summer. The
Coronado beach is in front of the hotel. There is nearly
always a heavy surf, except early in the morning in
summer, and during the south-westers it is very rough.
It is always cool on this beach, and people who can
afford it leave the inland valleys and spend the summer
here, and at other resorts north. San Diego is pleasantly
situated, and there are lots of hotels, but the fare is very
bad, especially in summer, when mutton and beef are sup-
plied from ill-nourished animals, the meat being very
tough and insipid. Vegetables are, also, almost tasteless
and fish of poor flavour, and everything is badly cooked.
CALIFORNIA. 205
The hotel-keepers Imve reaped a rich harvest here of lute
years, especially during tl)o " boom-fever." They seem
to think that " climate " and " fruit " should satisfy tlicir
guests, and even the latter is of poor quality. Tlic whole
surrounding; country consists of barren sand-hills, except
here and there a fruit-farm, which is so covered with
dust that it is difficult to ascertain, without going very
close, what is "rowinfj on it. Not a blade of ijreen ef^'a^s
is to be seen, except in gardens constantly irrigated.
Everything growing is covered with dust ; the roads are
covered with it ankle-deep ; and fleas abound, and their
attentions to visitors are unremitting. There is little, if
any, malaria of the ague-producing type at San Diego,
and it is a pleasanter climate than Los Angelos in every
way. As soon as the sun sets, it is cool, and a heavy
dew falls, and there is danger of getting chilled. Even
during the day, when the sun is very hot, it is dangerous
to stand lonfj at the coiner of a street or in a drauo-ht
anywhere, so cooling is the breeze. The influence of the
climate is slightly relaxing, and persons unacclimatised
will find even a moderate amount of exertion attended
by a sense of fatigue. The water at San Diego was very
bad, but improvement has been eflected in this respect.
The principal business of San Diego and Los Angelos has
been hotel-keeping and real-estate gambling, but the
collapse of the " boom " has made business exceedingly
dull.
Their principal imports are : lumber, provisions of all
kinds, coal, clothing, furniture, hardware, " innocent cap-
italists," invalids, and drinking water. Her productions
are, principally, sand, fleas, and real-estate sharks. Her
exports are literary productions, containing thrilling
2o6 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
accounts of the climate, and tlio future, and the ease
with which a man can make a small fortune on 10 acres
of desert land, witli a little water ; which " old residents
smile at." "They have wealth in their 'climate,' and
* harbour,' alone." People, however, usually require
something besides climate to live on.
•'' Where are the splendid pasture lands spoken of as
good for sheep ? '' Experience teaches that sand and cacti
do not make good mutton, and the carcasses of sheep ex-
hibited in the butchers' shops at San Diego would do for
Chinese lanthorns. The soil bakes so hard, that a crow-
bar and a bucket of wat r i>i required to make a hole in
it. Keverting to the Valley of San Bernadino, that is
an oasis in the desert, but it is very hot and dusty most
of the year. In a pamphlet issued by the " International
Company," it is stated, that the "average " value of culti-
vated fruit land in this valley is 1000 dollars per acre,
and that it pays 30 per cent, on that valuation. At the
time this pamphlet was issued, the Calif ornian epidemic
of "boom-fever" was at its height, and some allowance
must be made for the " composers." Persons desiring to
invest in fruit farms in this valley will find opportunities
at from 300 dollars to 500 dollars per acre. The best way
is to get acquainted, quietly, with an old settler, and not
let it be known you want to invest. When a man is
making " 30 per cent, profit " he wont sell ; but you will
not be troubled with many such cases. Even during the
" boom " some fairly good fruit orchards were sold at much
less than 500 dollars per acre, but you must deal with the
owner, and not have an^^thing to do with an agent, who,
with the eye of a hawk, will '*spot" you, on arrival.
Spend a few weeks, or months if necessary, driving about
CALIFORNIA. 207
making acquaintances among the agricultiinsts, with a
friendly chat, an<l smoko, and in this way, if you are dis-
creet, you may get a better orchard, and save Inindreds
of dollars on your purclia^o. Tlicre is no feed in this
country for stock, except in the foothills of the mountains,
and there it is getting scarce ; but alfalfa can be raised
in immense crops, and much may be done in the way of
stock, in addition to the fruitgrowing. From a "Report"
of the United States Commissioner of Agriculture, the
following notes on alfulfti in California are given. In the
San Bernadino Valley, alfalfa, growing "])erennially, gives
eight cuttings per year, of tine quality, though extensive
fields lie unmolested year after year. Immense herds of
cattle are fattened, and the beef is superior to that of any
other part of the State, while the hay is in great demand,
and brings an extra price in the market. The roots are
not of the fibrous and woody nature of the other grasses.
Hogs feed on them w^ith the greatest avidity, and often fol-
low them down to the depths of two f ^et or more; although
this by no means destroys their vitality. Its peculiar
home seems to be in a warm, dry climate, wdiere the
ground never freezes, and frosts rarely, if ever, occur. Jt
Cioes best in a well-drained and f liable alluvial soil, with
a penetrable sub-soil of an argillaceous nature. In this
climate it may be mown six times, or oftener, each year,
and be depastured during the winter, or for a period of
three months. When young it is extremely delicate, and
should be sown in connection with barley, or wheat.
When this is removed, it will generally be found to have
attained the height of two inches, and thereafter the sur-
face requires to be kept moist by irrigation, as the roots
have little power of penetration, and the young plants
20S THE BRITISH COLONIST.
would, otherwise, soon wither on exposure to tlie sun.
The second year it is able to take care of itself, and the
fourtli year it arrives at full hearing. Tlio roots then
ramify so widely and reacli to such a depth, that it is
able to bid defiance to drou'jjht. It does not bejjin to fail
in productiveness in less than five years. When this
occurs it may often be restored to its original vitality by
ploughing and thorongldypulverising the surface; the por-
tion of the roots remaining below the reach of tlie plough
will put forth fresh slioots,and the field soonagainbe cover-
ed with it. " When this grass is generally cultivated in the
warmer climates, the northern and more temperate regions
of this continent will lose tlicir reputed siipciiority in
stock raising." Tlie freshet cut away the bank of a creek,
exposing a section of an alfalfa-field. The roots of the
plant had penetrated to a depth of from 12 to 20 feet ;
and were exposed by the washing away of the bank from
the surface to the water-line. The diameter of the root
at the crown, at the surface, varies from an eighth to
half an inch. They taper gradually to the lower end,
from which a cluster of roots or feeders put out. In the
section exposed the roots were close together, but entirely
disconnected, each one growing straight through the soil
to the water, and producing on the surface a luxuriant
branch of alfalfa ; which keeps green the year round. A
farmer near San Jose sowed three and a half acres with
alfalfa, in February ; and in September it was producing
feed enough to sustain six milch-cows. Up to that time
it had been cut twice. He thinks that ten cows may be
supported when the grass has been fully established. A
man who has noted the cultivation of this plant in Cali-
fornia, for twenty years, has in no instance seen it succeed
CALIFORNIA. 209
without irrigation, except on alluvial soils on the mar-
gins of rivers, or low tlats. The conditions of successful
cultivation are, a frialile, mellow, moist soil, easily pene-
trated by the long tap roots, which should find a per-
manent supply of water at a depth of not more than six
to eight, and not less than three feet. The land should
bo thoroughly ploughed, and the surface crust well pulver-
ised, and about 15 lbs. of seed sown per acre, and l)rushed
in, but not covered too deep The sowing should be just
before a rainfall. An observer in the State of Alal)ama
says, that although on clean land it does very well sown
broadcast, experience demonstrates that under all cir-
cumstances it does a great deal better in drills. Until
two years old it is rather a slow grower, and needs the
assistance of occasional cultivation to bring it forward
successfully in its contest with ciab-grass and dry
weather. When sown in drills, from 18 inches to two
feet apart, this can easily be done. It will not re(j[uiro
reseeding for several yeai's, perhaps five or six. Alfalfa
is successfully cultivated in Oregon and Nevada ; also it
grows or» Vancouver Island, B.C. ; in one instance ob-
served. It is, therefore, certain that it will stand a con-
siderable amount of frost, when properly established. It
is noted in Nevada that the soil and climate seem to be
well adapted to the plant. The subsoil is well drained,
and every acre of sage-brush land that can be irrigated,
after the alfalfa has become established, say two, or three
years old, will produce from two to four times as much
hay as the best bottom lands. A soil which seems to be
destitute of vegetable matter will, when sown with alfalfa,
in a few years be converted into a rich, black loam, filled
with vegetable mould. The soil on land iu which grain
o
210 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
is sown, is soiiictiincs blown uway to the de])tli to which
it is ploiiglied, while the land which is laid down to
alfalfa is constantly catching and retaining it. In one
instance a piece of land which was once rough, and rocky,
"was sown with alfalfa ; now, tlic rough places are smooth,
and the rocks are covered up with a fine, black loam.
There is a constantly increasing demand for beef and
other meats in the country; 3'earby year the area of open
pasture lands, affording sufficient feed, has decreased
throughout the West, and with a constantly increasing
population, and a diminished supply of stock, there is
always certainty of a good profit and a " home " market
for beef and other meat ; and the man who can produce
this, under favourable circumstances, will make a larger
profit on his investment, taking one year with another,
than the majority of the fruit growers in California.
There is little, if any, jirofit in marketing green fruit.
The transcontinental freight charges are low enough,
owing to close competition, but the local rates are very
high ; for instance, the charges on 100 lbs. of fruit for
50 or 100 miles would be as great as for that weight from
San Francisco to New York, or other large cities in the
east. On fruit consigned to eastern markets, there is
first the cost of boxing and transfer to the forwarding
agent who takes his connnission. In the eastern cities,
on its arrival, it is sold by auction, and after the freight
and commission is paid there is often very little left for
the producer; and on the slightest appearance of damage
the fruit wi'l be sold at a mere nominal price, although
afterwards sold to the consumer at a very good profit to
the fruit buyers, amongst whom there is a very good
understandinsf. The cultivation of the olive. — Mr.
CALlFOkNiA. 211
Elwood Cooper, California," State Horticultural Society,"
— considered the most successful olive-grower in the
State, says : " I have, growing on my place, olive-trees
in the black adobe, in deep bottom-land, in sandy-land,
made from the wash of the mountains, in stony hillsides,
and adobe hillsides, and in table-land, where tlie siil^soil
is probably twenty feet deep, dark clay; and so far as
I have known, there is no dilFerencc in the bearing of
these trees, or in the oil made." Mr. Bonders, of San
Francisco, says : " Irrigation is always dangerous to the
olive. The plant is sometimes benefited by it, but the
quality and lineness of the fruit, never. Fifteen inches
of rain, distributed in the course of the year, is enough
for the olive ; particularly when it connnences to fruit."
The climate of Southern and, particularly, of Lower
California appears suited to the growth of the olive,
except that the rainfall is rather insufficient. " Bosc," a
high authority, says that every species of soil, provided
it is not marshy, is suitable for the olive, but in fertile
land it is often rather productive of wood, and that the
best sort of soil is on dry, sandy hills, with a gravelly
subsoil. At Cumberland Island, Georgia (State) — some
olive trees were once subjected to a temperature of 19" F.
without being injured, so it is evident they will stand a
good deal of frost occasionally — nmcli more than the
orange. In moist, rich land it jn-oduces abundance of
foliage, without fruit. In the propagation of the olive,
raising by seed is only resorted to in order to produce
new varieties, or as stocks for grafting, as the fruit fiom
seedlings, although yielding a fruit of a more delicate
and higher flavour, is, usually, very small. Gro.r'ing
iinproves the quality of fruit, but it is not so generally
212 THE BRITISH COLONIST
resorted to as propagation by suckers, and cuttings.
The last is the most practised. Limbs from an inch to
an inch and a half in diameter are cut into lenfrths of
from 12 to 15 inches. Trenches 5 feet apart and G to 8
inches deep being prepared, the cuttings are placed in them
about 18 inches apart and in an oblique position, so that
when the earth is tilled in, from one to two inches will
remain above the ground. On the exposed end a little
gardener's cement should be smeared to exclude the
water, and over the whole some moss or loose sand is
drawn for some time, to diminish the evaporation. In
dry weather the cuttings should be occasionally watered,
until they have taken root. Until the third year nothing
more is required than to cultivate among the young
plants, and to train them to a single stem. When tliiee
years old, the young trees should be planted out in the
usual way, at distances of 30 to 48 feet. In " Languedoc "
25 trees to the aero is the rule, where other cro]is are
cultivated between the trees ; but, otherwise, 50 trees to
an acre. The holes should be made large and deep, and
should be dug several months before the trees are put
out. The subsequent cultivation consists in removing
the suckers, trimming out the dead wood, in manuring
moderately once in three or four years, digging round the
I'oots annually, and in ploughing once a year the intervals,
unless other crops arc cultivated between. Much differ-
ence of opinion exists, in France, on the subject of
pruning ; but unless it is deemed desirable to keep the
trees low, for the facility of gathering the fruit, or to
diminish the risk of their being blown down by high
winds, all that appears to be necessary is to remove the
decayed wood, and to keep the head of the tree moder-
CALIFORNIA. 213
ately open, for the free admission of light and heat. On
tlie coast, where violent gales occur, low tiimming would
be best, and the same evil will probably lead to the
practice of grafting on seedling stocks, the tap root of
which will insure the stabilit}'' of the future tree. For
cuttings, in thoir soils, the roots will be too superficial for
safety.
The manufacture of the oil is extrernely simple, re-
quiring no very complicated or expensive machinery.
A revolving crusher for reducing the olives to a paste,
and a lever, or screw-press, for the pressing of the oil
from the pulp and stones ; the latter being crushed
separately, when divided from the pulp ; bags of coarse
cloth, or hair, to contain the pulp, and vessels for receiv-
ing the oil from the presses, and for separating it from
the mucilage. As soon as the olives are ripe, which is
indicated by their becoming of a dark colour, and soft,
they are gathered by hand, and spread out over floors to
the depth of a few inches. In this situation they remain
three days, being daily turned, and the decayed berries
carefully picked out. They are then placed in a triturat-
ing machine, until the pulp is reduced to a paste, and is
detached from the stones. The stones having been re-
moved, the pulp is then put into coarse and strong bags,
and placed under the press, which should be worked very
slowly at first. From the press the oil, mixed with
mucilage, runs into vessels half filled with water. After
standing from 12 to 24 hours, to give time for the
mucilage to separate from the oil, the latter is decanted
into other vessels, and remains undisturbed for about
20 days. It is then ready to be decanted again,
and finally put into the barrels in which it is to
214 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
remain. During this period, nearly all the muciUxge will
have been precipitated, but the oil is still likely to be
" troubled " until it has been exposed to the cold. The
oil from this expression is of the first quality. The pulp, or
cake, remaining in the bags after the first pressure, is
then broken up, moistened with warm water, returned
to the bags, and again pressed. The oil from it is nearly
equal to the first, and may be mixed with it. The
stones having been reduced to a paste by grinding, are
pressed in the same way, and yield an inferior oil, of a
harsh taste, and running rapidly into a state of ran-
cidity.
The quantity of oil which may be extracted from a
given weight of the fruit is stated by M. Sieuve, "Nouveau
Cours d'Agriculture," as follows : 100 lbs. of sound olives
gave 1Q)\ lbs. of pulp, and 22 lbs. of stones. The 76^- lbs.
of pulp, when pressed, yielded 21^ lbs. of limpid oil of
first qi lity. The stones having been ground, gave
6 lbs. 14 ozs. of kernel, and 14 lbs. 4 ozs. of woody fibre.
The kernel and woody fibre gave 5| lbs. of inferior oil.
Together making 27 lbs. of oil from 100 lbs. of olives.
The refuse of the manufacture forms a valuable
manure.
When the fruit is not sufficiently ripe, the fresh oil
lias a bitterish taste, and when too ripe it is fatty. The
finest quality of oil is prepared in Provence. This is a
virgin oil, expressed wnth great care, from the ripe fruit,
immediately after being gathered, and before the slightest
fermentation has taken place. Olives intended for pre-
servation are gathered before they are ripe, and de-
prived of some of their bitterness by soaking for eight
or ten hours in a lye composed of one part of quick-
CALIFORNIA. 215
lime to six parts of wood-ashes in water. They
are then bottled in a brine of common salt and
water, to which is usually added some aromatic
flavour.
The ^ roduct of oil varies very much with the size of
the trees, the character of the soil, and the fruitfulness
of the season. In France they have large trees that are
known to yield 40 to GO lbs., or from 5i to 8| gallons of
oil, when they give a crop, which is once in two years,
and sometimes once in three. Small trees yield from
6 to 12 lbs. each. The mean produce of a tree in
France is assumed to be 10 lbs. (1-^ gallons), and in Italy
15 lbs. (Ij gallons) (United States measure). The produce
of an orchard of 200 trees in Tuscany, for four years,
was as follow\s: 615 gallons, Gl gallons, 164 gallons, 512
gallons respectively — total, 1352 gallons. In Italy single
trees in a productive season have been known to yield 41
gallons (exceptional). The wholesale price of the finest im-
ported olive oil in brls.,50 gallons (ISew York), is 2 dols.per
gallon. For the south of France the mean annual yield of a
tree at full bearing is 1 gallon or 50 gallons for an acre,
worth about 75 cents a gallon. Mr. Cooper of California,
" Report on Fruit Industry," Board of Trade, makes
the following startling statements : " The only test I have
made as to the quantities borne by an orchard — that is,
taking all the trees — showed 122 lbs. of olives through-
out the orchard — large trees and small ' seven-years-old
from the cuttings.'"
The best result in making oil has been 12i lbs. in one
large bottle ; the poorest result was lOi lbs.
We have for the tree seven-j^ears-old at least ten bottles
of oil ; and those bottles will sell readily anywhere and
2i6 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
everywhere at a dollar a-piece ; he further says — " I was
compelled to put up the price to two dollars — 24 dols. a
case — to keep my customers from quarrelling about it ;
and I am soriy to say they quarrelled about it just the
same. As soon as I have enough, I shall put it back to 12
dols. a case. One dollar for a large bottle of oil is profit
enono;!! for an olive orchard."
The number of trees is not stated, and it is badly
expressed, and, seemingly, an effort to "boom" the olive
industry in California.
Mr. Arthur Young, speaking of olives in the south of
France, and advocating their cultivation in the Southern
States, says — "It is presumed that the best mode of
promoting the general introduction of the olive into
this country will be to recommend the mixed cultivation.
As the olive only begins to bear about the tenth year,
and does not arrive at its full production before the 20th
to the 30th year, few persons would consent to expend so
much labour before reaping any reward. But under the
mixed system, nearly the full amount of the usual crops
is made, and the manuring and cultivating of the grain
crops will be sufficient for the olive trees, and the
labour of planting the young trees is almost the only
extra work they will require until they commence
bearing."
The only crop which will grow in Southern and
Lower California, without irrigation, is maize — when
planted (m moist alluvium — which would not do for
olives; and irrigation is injurious to them. With every
respect for the great resources of this fine State, there is not
sufficient evidence to show that such phenomenal results
are obtained, or that such profits are made by the fruit
CALIFORNIA. 217
culturisfc, as are suggested by Califorr.ians, whose eager-
ness to colonise uncultivated lands, perhaps, leads them
into involuntary exaggeration. During the late boom in
Southern California an eastern man went out there for
the purpose of residing and purchasing a fi'uit-farm. He
was supplied with a very warm letter of introduction
to a real-estate agent there by a mutual friend. Mr.
A , after a short stay in the district, found a piece of
property he took a fancy to, and adjourned to Mr. B 's
office to ask his advice as to that and other investments
he had in view. " Well," said his friend, Mr. B , " the
fact is, you ought not to trust what I say. I mean this
— I have been so long in this ' booming business,' and my
interests are so tied up in it, that I am not a safe adviser ;
but I'll tell you what I'll do ; I will introduce you to
Judge G ; he is the man to advise you." It is worthy
of note that the production of olive oil, in Italy, annually,
is 70,000,000 gallons, valued at about 100,000,000 dols.,
considerably more tlian the value of the wheat exports of
the United States for 1880.
It is reported that labourers and mechanics are fully
equal to the demands, but during the fruit-picking season
and in harvest-time there is a rush for cheap labour which
is then difficult to obtain.
The cost of fencing in California is an important item.
A rabbit proof fence must be used, costing about 1 dol. 40
cents per rod. Rabbits are very troublesome in Southern
and Lower California. In the former the people became
exasperated and effected a (jreat slaufjhter in the follow-
ing manner. A funnel-shaped enclosure of wire-fencing
was made including seven miles of wire-netting. Hundreds
of people turned out, and a large scope of country was
2i8 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
beat, and the raLbiis driven into the enclosure. Seven
tliousand rabbits were killed in one drive, but they are
so numerous that tliis will not suffic' to relieve the
country of the nuisance.
LOWER CALIFORNIA.
CONTENTS.
Geoorapiiical Outline, 219— Bay of La Paz, 219— Ballenas, 220— San
Sebastian Viscaino, 220 — San Luzaro Mountains, 220 — Cacachilas
Mountains, 220— City of La Paz, 220— Valleys in San Lazavo, 220—
Sierra de la Victoria, 220— Table Mountains, 221 — Loreto, 221 —
Altitude of Mountains, 221— Stock Range, 222— Drought, 222—
Grasses, 222— High Meza Lands, 222 — Country between Rosarioand
San Diego, 222— San Andres Valley, 222— Rivers, 222— Cereals
without Irrigation (growtli of), 223 — Plain between Todos Santos
and Purissima, 223 — Land South of Loreto, 223 — Valleys of San
Bruno and San Juan, 223 — Valleys of Todos Santos, 223 — Vine-
yards, 223— Products of the country, 223 — Fertility of the soil, 224
— Mineral resources, 224 — Country on Magdalena Bay, 224 — Cli-
mate, 224— Hot Winds, 225— Malaria, 22o— Effects of the Climate,
225— Rainfall, 225 -Fleas, 226- Dangers of Bathing, 226-Price of
■ Supplies, 226— Fish, 227- The old Missions, 227— Shooting, 227—
Reptiles, 227— Timber, 227.
The peninsula of Lower California extends from the
23rcl to near the 32nd degree of north latitude, ahout
775 miles in a direct line, and varies in width from 35
to 70 miles. The coast, irregular in outline, is a succes-
sion of bays, harbours, and roadsteads. Most of these
are shallow and exposed. Magdalena, about fifty miles
in length and several wide, is the best. It is about 100
miles from Cape San Lucas, on the Pacific side. Nearly
opposite to this bay is the harbour of La Paz, which is a
fine bay and well protected from all winds, except the
terrible hurricanes that blow in September and October.
Eight or nine miles down tlie bay from the town is a
220 THE BRiriSIJ COLONIST.
small harbour, sheltered on all sides, called Pichilinguo.
Half-way up the coast are two large bays — Ballenas,
opening towards the south west ; and San S 'bastian
Viscaino, opening towards the north-west. Into the
former empties the San Ignacio Lagoon, and into tlio
latter Scammou's La^joon, These lai^oons are two land-
locked bays, with comparatively narrow entrances
frequented by small vessels, but the channels are reported
deep. The Port of San Quintin, lat. 33" 23', is said to
afford a secure anchorage for a number of vessels. The
Bay of San Jose, near Cape San Lucas, is a mere road-
stead affording no protection from south-east gales.
The portion of the country lying south of La Paz is
the roughest and most picturesque, having the highest and
most rugged mountains, and the deepest valleys. The
San Lazaro chain starts as low hills near Cape San Lucas,
runs north-east to the peak of San Lazaro, perhaps
5000 feet high, falls near Triunfo to about 1000 feet, and
continuing north-east again, rises in the high and frown-
ing masses of the Cacachilas, forming an imposing back-
ground to the beautiful town of La Paz, as viewed
from the bay. Small spurs run out from the San
Lazaro chain down to the west coast, while eastwards,
spurs and nearly parallel chains fill in the whole area
to the eastern coast. Beautiful valleys lie amongst these
mountains. The valley of San Jose del Cabo runs north-
east of the high mountains, about 20 miles in length, in
a high state of cultivation. Other valleys, smaller in
size, but similar in most respects, occur ; scattered here
and there, and even on the sunnnit of the high sj^ur
known as the Sierra de la Victoria is said to be a lonef
chain of little valleys, with very rich soil, fine grass,
LOWER CALIFOKMIA, 221
plenty of pure spring water, and bortleretl by groves
and forests of oak and pine. North of this granite mass,
and extending with some'tri fling breaks to Santa Certrudis,
or San Borja, lies a belt of table mountains of sandstone.
These almost everywhere commence on the west coast
as broad plains, rising towards the north-east so gradually
that, were it not for their being cut by innumerable
canons which show their steadily increasing height, one
might still believe himself to be but a few feet above the
ocean. The refjular elevation of the tables continues to
within a few miles of the gulf, where a sudden descent
cuts them off, with a face so precipitous that, except in a
very few places, it is impossible to find a pass to reach
the coast. Seen from the west side, the mountains look
like a sea of flat tables, barren, and covered with loose
stones ; while from the eastern face they are steep,
rugged, and so serrated as to lose entirely their tabular
form. On this side, and adjoining the coast, are some
good little valleys. South of Loreto for, perha])s, 20
miles, is a tract of level land bordering the coast, and in
some places 2 miles wide ; most of it covered with fertile
soil. The spur which starts from San Borja as a chain
of partiplly isolated hills, becomes more marked near the
coast, and after passing San Andres, it assumes very
respectable proportions, growing higher and larger,
entirely occupying half the width of the peninsula, and
connecting with the Coast Ranges of Upi)er California.
East of this, and north of Santa Maria, the country is
chiefly sandy desert with a few fertile spots. The
greatest height of the mountains is estimated at 5000
feet ; many of them are mere piles of broken rocks, while
others are covered with grass, shrubbery, and small trees.
222 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
A largo portion of tho country is rougli, iiujuntainoiis,
dry, and desolate, and covered with cactus. As a stock
country it has been very much over-cstiinatod. The
thorny nature of tlie undergrowth heavily discounts
sheep raising, for wool purposes, and the country is
suhject to long continued droughts ; sometimes for two
or three years in succession. Bunch-grass grows in
many places, and north of San Borja alfalfa, burr, and
other clovers are found. Several plants of the acacia
family withstand the drought, and on these the animals
feed when the grass disappears. Tho principal of these
are the mezquite and lipua — mules, horses and cattle
feed on these and thrive, when there is not a blade of
grass in si<ilit. The hi<di meza lands above the summit
of the Gigantea, and between Gertruflis and San Borja,
owing to constant fogs, are said to be never effected by
drought ; and cattle flourisli. Between llosario and San
Diego, the country consists of a series of valleys, pretty
well watered. In the San Andres valley, and the ad-
joining plains of Santa Anna, is a good grazing region.
There is a lake of brackish water, half a mile long,
never dry, which animals drink freely. While the water
in the ponds is nearly all of this nature, that of wells
sunk is, as a rule, fairly good. Tiicre are no streams
worthy of being called rivers in the country ; they arc
only a few feet in width, except some in the north, ad-
joining Southern California. In the valleys of San Jose
del Cabo, Todos Santos, Comondo, Purissima, San Iguacio,
San Rosario, San Ramon, Guadalupu, and Fia Juana arc
permanent streams. The San Ramon and Rio Fia Juana
have as much water as the Los Angelos River. Most of
these streams sink on reaching the plains, and a system
LOlVliR CALIFORNIA. m
(jf caiut'ully prepared tlitchcs will be required to make
the water available (or irrigating purposes. There arc
many smaller streams than those mentioned, llowing
perennially in -the canons. At certain places cereals
grow without irrigation, but it is in conse([Uence of the
soil being constantly moistened from a storage under-
neath. In such places large crops arc raised, and arc
spoken of by persons interested in attracting settlers, in
a manner that tends to induce the belief that it is owing
to a sufficient rainfall. On the west side, adjoining the
Pacific, is a plain extending from near Todos Santos, to
the mouth of the Arroyo of Purissima, about 175 miles
in length, with an average width of 10 miles. About
half of this is covered with good soil, but there is no
water. South of Loreto, for twenty miles, there is a
tract of level land along the coast, most of it fertile soil.
Farther north, at San Bruno, San Juan, and south of
Molejo, are broad valleys fiom nine to thirty scjuarc miles
in area, of good land. In many canons ofl' the j^lain of
Todos Santos are fertile i)atches of soil. Nearly all the
most favoured valleys and lands are owned by private
parties and speculators, who ask high prices; or arc
already in cultivation. On suitable soil, when irrigated,
enormous crops can be raised. Vineyards are every-
where, and the grapes and wine are of suj)erior quality.
Tobacco, cotton, and sugar cane are extensively culti-
vated, especially in the south. Several species of palms
are natives, and the date grows wild. Plantains and
bananas, figs, oranges, olives, lemons, limes, pomegranates,
peaches, and in the northern parts, apples and potatoes,
which, however, are of poor flavour, grow abundantly.
Wheat, barley, maize and oats arc cultivated in the north;
224 TH^ BRITISH COLONIST.
also tobacco and alfalfa would yield cnoriiiously with
irrigation, and afford abundant feed for stock. The
difficulty will bo to find sufficient water to irrigate the
meza lands that are suitable for cultivation. So pro-
ductive is the soil, under irrif]jation, that a few acres
would support a family, provided a market could be
dc[)ended upon. The mineral resources of the country,
so far, have not proved remunerative. Lumber is brought
from the North Pacific Coast and sold at a very high
price. Coal has been reported in places where it did not
exist. It may have been confounded with asphaltum.
Gold, silver, and copper have been worked in various
parts. Gypsum, in its crystallised form of selenif ", occurs
in many places. Salt is abundant, e.speciall}^ at San
Quentin, Ojo de Liebre and Carmin Island, in the Gulf.
The expenses of collecting, shipping and duties, however,
have deterred people from working it. On the west
coast, boi'dering the northern part of the Bay of Magda-
lena, and the long arm which extends northward, arc
extensive ])lains nearly level, rising insensibly to the
east, and, in great ])art, covered with rich soil. These
plains, almost destitute throughout of the scattered stones
on the surface which render so much land on the penin-
sula valueless, are covered with a dense vegetation, prin-
cipall}^ a large species of cactus, but there is no water on
the surface. The climate of Lower California is so mild
that cultivated plants of both tro])ical and temperate
countries grow side by side. Tlie winter temperature
averai^es from GO^ to 70'\ The maximum sunnner tem-
perature will range from 85° to 110''. On the coast it is
always cool after about 8 a.n)., when the breeze com-
mences, but back, in the valleys it is very warm ; and
LOWER CALIFORNTA. 225
when occasionally a hot easterly wind reaches any
locality, it is positively welting in its effects. On the
eastern coast, along the Gulf of California, the climate is
unfit for any but the inlial)itants of tropical countries.
Up in the high lands and mountains, the climate will, of
course, be more bracing, but the general tendency of the
whole climate, no matter how agreeable it may appear
for a short period, is towards relaxation and indolence.
The British, or North American settler, will soon find lie
is more inclined to swing in a hammock, smoke, and eat
fruit, and see others work for him, if lie can get them,
than to exert himself. In the valleys, where the richest
soil prevails, it is very malarious, producing ague and a
chronic bilious condition. Muscular exertion will be
found fatiguing, and gradually a chronic state of imlol-
ence will supervene, which may very materially affect
his financial prospects.
Professor Agassis is reported as saying, touching
the climate, that it was one of the favoured spots on
earth. The International Company quoted this state-
ment, and was unwilling to allow the thermometer to
range beyond prescribed limfts ; but it does all the same,
and the impression made by the climate on persons who
travel about for a comparatively short period, is very
different from that made on a permanent resident. There
is very little difference in the climate at San Diego and
the northern portion of the peninsula of Lower California.
At San Diego, in the city, on the 1st October, the ther-
mometer reached 100" in the shade ; and back in the
valleys it was reported as high as 110°. The average
rainfall is from nine to ten inches during winter ; there
is none during summer, "^i'lui whole country, as in
226 THE BRITISH COLONIST,
Southern California, is infested with fleas, but those of
Lower California are, perhaps, of a finer physique
Their attentions to the stranger make his life a burden,
but after a few years' pasturage they get tired, and seek
a change in the person of a new arrival. An important
item in the settler's supplies will be several barrels of
Persian insect powder for use at night ; but in the day-
time the free application of petroleum to the lower parts
of the garments is useful in preventing, to a certain
extent, their invasion. The nightly battles with these
invisible foes, added to the relaxing nature of the climate,
is trying both to the temper and constitution. It is ad-
visable that the settler should acquire some experience
before making a permanent investment. The dust in
summer is very trying ; it is ankle-deep on the roads,
and in driving it is impossible sometimes to see where
you are going. Bathing in the sea is attended with
danger here and in Southern California. There is a
variety of the ray fish, with a sting in its tail, wliicli lies
in the muddy sand of the beaches. If trodden on, the
sting is thrust into the foot, the pain being great, and
you may be laid up for a month. Shoes should be worn
to avoid tliis danger. In swimming in deep water, it
should be remembered that the barracuda — a species of
pike well known in tlic West Indian waters — is also
here, and has a habit of bitino: bathers. No instances of
the kind can, however, be referred to as occurring on
this coast, known to the author. Building material of
all kinds, furniture, and flour are very expensive. Tiie
lazy, mongrel population of the country, vindictive
when offended, is a most ol:»jectionable feature ; but the
families of Sj)anish descent afford good society. The
LOWER CALIFORNIA. 227
whole coast of the peninsula abounds with fish. There
are seals and whales ; and the pearl fishery on the Gulf
of California is valuable. In the time of the Missions,
when very small portions of the soil were cultivated, the
four districts of San Jose, San Antonio, and Todos tSantos
contained a population of 35,000. There can be no
doubt the resources of a portion of this peninsula are
equally as great as those of Southern California, and
under efficient management, the country is capable of
supporting a considerable population ; but at present tlie
great expense of necessary supplies would consume a
large portion of the settler's capital at starting, and
until the country is opened by railroads there will be no
market facilities.
The shooting in the country consists of quail in im-
mense numbers, but very small in size ; ducks on the
lagoons, which are, however, fishy in flavour; and a few
deer. In the sea the "bass" is said to abound, and
would afford excellent sport.
Rattle-snakes, scorpions, and centipedes abound. The
timber in the country is scarce and small, except in the
neighbourhood of streams ; it is, however durable, and
said to be good for shipbuilding. There are some fine
live oaks in places, the wood of wliich is very hard and
heavy.
NEW MEXICO.
CONTENTS.
Area and resources, 228— The Rio Grande Valley, 228— Mesilla Valley,
229 — Vineyards in Mesilla Valley, 230 — Resources of Rio Grande
Valley at Albu(iuer(]ue, 230 — Yield of Crops near Albuquei-que, and
Market Prices, 2.32— Cost of Fencing, Capital Required, 233— Area
of the Maxwell Grant Company, 233 — Cost of Labour, 234— Appear-
ance of the Country, 2.34— Stock Range, 234 — Las Vegas, 234 —
Climate, 235 — Meteorological Record, 235 — Irrigation, 236— Crops
Raised by Irrigation, 238 — Indications for Irrigation, 240— Rules
for Irrigation, 241 — San Luis Valley, 241— Valley of the Taos, 242
— Sierra Blanca Range, 242— San Juan Valley, 242— Sierra Mojada,
243 — Maxwell Land Company in Colorado, 243 — Price of Land in
Colorado "^'alleys, 243 — Fine Scenery, 244— Effects of the Climate,
244 -Rattlesnakes, 244 — Cacti, 245 — Railway Routes, 245 — Shooting
and Game, 245 — The Sierra Madre Mountains, 245 — Sliooting and
Fishing in Sangre de Cristo Range, 246 —Purchasing Supplies, 246
— Rates' of Interest, 246 — The Angora Goat, 247 — Description of
the Inhabitants, 249— The Cowboy, 250.
This territory has an area of 122,444 square miles.
Mining and stock raising are the chief resources, the area
of land suitable for cultivation being extremely limited,
and confined to the valley of the Rio Grande Canadian
River and their tributaries, principally. What can be
accomplished on other areas by means of irrigation,
supplied by Artesian wells, remains to be demonstrated
in the future. From the town of San Elceario in Texas,
25 miles below El Paso, Texas, to the south boundary of
the "Jornada" — a distance of 85 miles — the valley of
NFAV MRXICO. 229
the Rio Grande is from two to five luiles wide, perfectly
level, the river passing through it with many sinuosities.
The soil is sandy alluvium, chiefly composed of dis-
integrated material, and, although of no great depth, is
very fertile, when irrigated ; its fertility being main-
tained by s')dimentary deposits from the river. Shallow
ploughing xs necessary, or too much sand is turned up.
Seven miles below the Jornada is the town of Dona Ana,
the oldest in New Mexico. Five miles above El Paso the
Rio Grande commences to make its way through the chain
of mountains w^hich intersect its course, and to a point in
the neighbourhood of JV^olino it is bordered closely, on
both sides, by a range of high and rugged mountains.
At Frontera the range on the \vest side subsides into the
vast level table-lands, which extend with little interrup-
tion many miles to the westward ; but on the east side
the mountains gradually recede from the river, becoming
more rugged and lofty, until they unite on the Jornada
del Muerto with the continuous ridges of the Rocky
Mountains. The river cuts through them, between
Frontera and Molino, by a succession of rapids, and this
pass was named by the Spaniards, on its discovery, " El
Paso."
Opposite Dona Ana is the Mesilla Valley, ten miles in
length along the river, and from one to three miles in
width. Fort Fillmore is, also, opposite, and some fifteen
miles below Dona Ana. The valleys of the Mesilla and
the Rio Grande, within the limits described, comprise the
richest agricultural land in New Mexico. The products
are wheat, maize, barley, beans, alfalfa, and all kinds of
vegetables and fruits. Alffilfa will produce three or four
cuttings each year, and five tons to the acre is an average
230 THE n KIT IS II COLONIST.
crop, woitli 12 dols. per ton, balo.l and dulivered on
cars ; the net profit being about seven dollars per ton.
But it is as a grape producing district that it should
receive special attention. All the different kinds of
grji]ies grown in California will grow as abundantly
here, and are of a superior flavour, and contain more
sugar. They also bear as early as on the Pacific Coast,
and the wine made is of a superior quality. Mr. Thomas
Ball has 35 acres in orchard and vineyard. He states
that his property has paid him a ten-per-cent. dividend
on an investment of 00,000 dols. At this rate the
property is worth from 1500 to 2000 dollars per acre.
The valleys have a very mild and equable climate, being
sheltered on all sides by the mountains.
The course of the river being generally to the south-
east, and the ranges of the mountains (on the east side)
being neai'ly parallel to it, the whole of this area has a
southern and western exposure, and the soil is sufficiently
fertile, and of great warmth. The climate is said to
resemble that of the soutii side of Madeira, and it is
doubtful if any portion of the Continent will produce
grapes of such quality and flavour. In addition to
grapes, peaches, apricots, nectarines, plums, cherries,
pears, apples, etc., are cultivated with success ; but, of
course, the two latter fruits will not arrive at the
perfections obtained in a more humid atmosphere. So
far the fruit pests, the curculio, borers, coddling-moth, or
worms, have not troubled, and the climate is admirably
suited to the curing of raisins. Uncultivated land ranges
in price from 30 to 100 dols. per acre.
At Albuquerque, on the Rio Grande, land under culti-
vation (not fruit), with irrigating ditches, can be bought
N£IV MEXICO. 231
for 30 to GO dols. per acre; and unbroken land from 10
to 25 dols. per acre. The variety of grapes now in use
in New Mexico is the " Mission " grape, which makes
very good wine ; it is, however, rather too sweet for the
table. The better varieties of grapes for wine-making
have only been tried in an experimental way, but suffi-
ciently to show that they can be grown successfully.
The owner of a vineyard near Albuquerque states, that
a fair yield from a good vineyard is about two gallons
to a vine. With vines eight feet apart each way, there
would be six hundred and eighty to an acre, which
should yield at least 1000 gallons of wine. The selling
price of wine at Albuquerque is from 25 to 40 dols. per
barrel of 40 gallons, according to quality. Allowing half
the proceeds for cultivation and making, this would show
a very handsome profit, and leave a good margin for
deficiencies. The city of Albuquerque on the Atchison,
Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, is well situated, and hav-
ing a population of 8000. The city is supplied with
gas, electric lights, water works and street railway. The
population in Ijernalillo County, of which this is the
capital, has increased from 7,591 in 1870 to about 25,000
in 1889. The cost of living is rather high. Furniture
and all manufactured goods are brought from the east,
and lumber is very expensive, as high as 70 or 80 dollars
per 1,000 feet, and houses are, therefore, expensive to
build, and correspondingly high in rent. On the farms
the adobe house is generally used. This is built of mud
and straw, dried in the sun, forming the universal stylo
of dwelling the Mexicans and Indians inhabit. The
following average yields of some of the staple crops near
Albuquerque are recorded : —
ip
THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Wheat, per acre,
30 to 50 bushels.
Corn, ,,
GO to 80 „
Oats, , ,
40 to 50 „
Barley, ,,
30 to 36 „
Mangel and Beets, per acre, ... 40 to GO tons.
Onions,
„ ... 7 to 15 „
Turnips,
„ ... 2o ,,
Cabbages,
... 20,000 to 25,000 lbs.
From the Wholes
ale Market Report at Albuc^uerque, the
following prices are quoted : —
Wheat,
1 dol. 50 c. to 1 dol. 75 c. per 100 lbs.
Corn,
1 dol. 25 c. , ,
Oats,
1 dol. GO c. „
Barley,
1 dol. GO c. „
Asparagus,
12 dols. 50 c. „ •
Alfalfa Hay, ...
15 to 20 dols. per ton.
Mangel Beets,
7 to 9 dols. „
Onions,
1 dol. to 4 dols. per 100 lb"
Field Turnips,
7 to 9 dols. per ton.
Beans (white).
3 to 4 dols. per 100 lbs.
Potatoes,
1 dol. 50 c. to 2 dols. 50 c. i-^r 100 lbs.
Turnips (table)
1 dol. 50 c. to 2 dols. 50 c. „
Carrots,
2 dols. to 4 dols. „ •
Cabbage,
1 dol. 50 c. to 4 dols. „
Sweet Potatoes,
3 dols. 50 c. to 5 dols. „
Cauliflowers,
7 to 8 cents per lb.
X 6clSf •••
6 to 10 cents ,,
Peaches,
2 to 4 cent? „
Grapes,
2 to 4 centi. „
Melons,
1 dol. to 2 dols. 50 c. per doz.
Water Melons,
2 dols. to 4 dols. „
The area of land capable of producing the necessary
supplies being so very limited, and the poi^ulation of the
territory consisting, for the most part, of miners and
stock men, who are not producers, there is a good mar-
ket for all products ; the profits on which will vary with
MMW MEXICO. 2j3
tlie exactions of commission agents. A large quantity
of cereal and vegetable products, as well as butter,
cheese, poultry, and hay, is imported every year to meet
the demands.
Fencing is an important item in the establishment of
a farm. Wire and boards must be used, and all material
imported from the east. To fence in 10 acres will re-
quire IGO rods of fence, and for 20 acres, 240 rods ;
which, at 1 dol. 50 c. per rod, will amount to 240 dols.
and 3G0 dols. respectively. A man with a capital of
4,000 to 5,000 dollars (£800 to £1,000) could make a
good start ; and a skilled horticulturist, with much less,
by working for other people, would do well.
The Maxwell Land Grant Compan3^ Raton, New
Mexico, have an area of 1,750,000 acres in New Mexico
and Colorado, upon which an extensive system of irriga-
tion is preparing. Their land in New Mexico is, princi-
pally, situated on the tributaries of the Canadian River,
many of which will afford irrigation. The company
offer these lands at 10 to 15 dols. per acre, with the use
of water — M. P. Pels, general manager, Raton, New
Mexico. At the town of Trinidad, on the Colorado
border of this grant, there are sawmills and a body of
many thousands of acres of pine timber. A small pro-
portion of this area is suitable for cultivation, and is to
be found along the valleys of the principal tributaries :
such as the Cimarron, Vermejo, Canadian, Rayado, &c.
. The fertility of some of this land is shown in the pro-
ductions on a small scale. A cabbaofe weighed 45 lbs. ;
and a pumpkin on the Vermejo weighed 50 lbs. Irish
potatoes are said to yield well on the mountain regions,
200 bushels to the acre of good quality. On the Rio
«34 TH^ BRITJSH COLONIST.
Grande they do not succeed in the Albuqucniue district,
and south of that.
Indian and Mexican labourers work for 1 dol. per day,
boarding themselves. In passing through New Mexico
on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa F(^ route, the country
is exceedingly barren and sterile in appearance, the sage
brush and coai'se grass growing in tut'ts, and the whole
surface of the country is gravelly and rocky, and water
is very scarce in most places. Little beyond this can be
seen from the train. It is only on the Rio Giande the
voyageur will see signs of cultivation. Immense herds
of cattle and sheep are grazed, but are mostly off the
line of railway, in the valleys and foothills of the
mountains, and near watering-places. Stock-running has
been overdone, as usual, and the pasturage has been
eaten out in many districts. It is said one person owned
70,000 sheep in the Albuquerque district. The course of
the railroad is a succession of grades, alternately rising
and descending mountains of from 5 to 7,000 feet in
altitude, which are covered with pine. Beautiful views ;,
are obtained of the highest peaks of the distant ranges.
Between the mountain elevations, the railroad traverses
innnense plains covered witli sage brush and cacti.
These are useless except for grazing, the cattle eating
the small variety of sage brush, which, however, imparts
a peculiar flavour to the meat. East and a little north
of Albuquerque, 132 miles on the railway, is Las Vegas,
a beautiful district in the mountains. A fine hotel,
admirably situated, is a great resort for invalids. The
arrangements for the comfort of the guests are excellent,
and there are many attractions in the neighbourhood ;
fine views and some trout fishing. The climate of New
NEW MEXICO.
235
Mexico is excellent, and particularly healing for pulmon-
ary and catarrhal affections, in common with Colorado.
It is an extremely dry climate, very little rain falling,
and in some parts none at all, for, perhaps, two years ;
but sometimes there are very sudden and heavy falls of
rain in the mountains (cloud-bursts), which send a deluge
down the water-courses, and wash away everything in
its w^ay. In many parts traces of these deluges can be
seen, where for months, and years, not a drop of running
water is ever seen. In some seasons the rains are
frefiuent and heavy in the El Paso district, and some of
the adobe houses have even been washed down. The foUow-
inrj aljstract of meteoroloi^ical records are from the
United States Signal Officei's " Reports." Towards the
western boundary of New Mexico the rainfall is less and
more uncertain.
Abstract from Mkteorolouical Kkcords.
Jan.
Fob.
Mar.
April
May
Juiio
July
Aug.
Sopt.
Oct.
Nov.
Dec.
Dec.
Feb.
station.
Sail Elccario
do.
do.
do.
Frontcra
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
Near junction
of Gila and
Colorado rivers
do.
Mean ' Mean
IJai meter Tlier, F.
20-20
20-354
20-370
20-295
20-140
20-175
20-174
20-200
20-254
20-233
20-233
26-317
40 3
40 29
57-7
07 -0
70-4
80-8
85-9
84-1
79-13
07
50-8
45-5
29-979 59-8
29-937 08-0
Dew-
HlRliest
I'oiiit.
Tenii).
07-0
31-0
39 19
...
47-9
81-0
45-2
87 -5
42-0
95
30-0
103
41-2
99-0
42-1
■ • •
57-89
92
42-1
87-0
30-0
73-0
37-7
03-0
• • •
72-0
• • •
82-0
Lowei-
Tenip.
47
29-5
40-5
50 5
59-0
710
Jiiiin.
inches.
0-004
0-795
0-015
0-092
0013
0-010
1-537
05-0 1-052
47-0 0-013
25-0 0-211
27-0 1-255
48-5
53
iSh THE HRITISII COLONIST,
The elevation of San P^lceario is .S,(j07 feet. Frontera
3,796 feet, and the junction of Colorado and Gila llivers,
275 feet. The season in which the foregoing observations
were made was a very dry one. It is nearly always
bright and clear in this climate, esj ecially in the more
northern portion, and in the Albu(iuerque district. Even
when the thermometer is in the nineties, the heat is
never oppressive, so dry and pure is the atmosphere.
In hifrher altitudes the nights are often frosty in summer,
and I'heumatic affections are i)revalent.
Irrigation.
In New Mexico, where irrigation has been practised
over one hundred years, and where considerable uneven
land has been cultivated, terraces or benches have been
constructed. It seems, however, that in course of time
the best of the soil of the upper terraces is washed to
the lower ones ; hence much of such land has become
poor. Mr. Hunt, near Denver, Colorado, gives his ex-
perience with irrigation, and on land of this description,
as follows : —
" My land being uneven, I experienced more difficulty
than those having even ground, and for this reason was
compelled to divide it into small beds or hinds, of 15 to
25 feet, with back furrowing to form a levee, from
three to five furrows down hill, and finished up with
shovel and line ; and, when completely and deeply
ploughed, dragging a heavy stick of square timber,
laterally, from end to end of each bed, until all the
little elevations were dragged into depressions. I then
harrowed it thoroughly, applied plenty of seed, and put
NEW MEXICO. 237
a heavy roller over it. Tlio most favoiimble tinio to
seed is when the early spring rains are likely to fall ;
natural irrigation being far preferable for starting tlio
seed. A top of dressing of fine, well-rotted manure is of
the greatest advantage in preventing the earth from
cracking after fre(|uent flooding. In case the land
descends in two or more directions, as is often the case,
I divide these long beds into others of convenient sizo.each
having a different level, and each provided with a bank
or level, on the lower side, of sufHcient height and
strength to admit of flooding to the depth of two inches.
If the descent is not too rapid, it is nmcli better to level
each bed so that the water can stand of a uniform depth
all over it ; but when this levelling will cut away too
nnich of the surface soil, let the level be hiii^h enounrh to
* back water ' over the upper side. My main ditch is
arranged to throw its entire contents with the biggest of
these beds, through a sluice-box with a gate. A few
minutes serve to fill this ; while the surplus water is
discharged into the next lower bed, through a box con-
structed as follows: — Take three pieces of inch board,
12 to 18 inches wide, and two or three feet long, naileil
together like three sides of a box ; braced across the
open or top side. In this box I fasten a stationary gate,
coming within three inches of the top. The box I pack
in the levee so firmly, that there will be no leakage
around it, and of such height, that when the water has
ei-lirely coveied the upper bed, the surplus will escape
over this half-open sluice, falling in the box, before
striking the ground ; by which the force of the current
is broken, and the water is thus prevented from tearing
up the soil. By the same process a long succession of
238 THE ERITISH COLONIST.
beds can be thoroufi;hly and quickly watered, without
labour and waste ; and, also, be made to do service,
while the owner is sleeping, and in case of rain, none is
lost. When the last bed begins to fill, I shut the main
gate, and leave each of the series to soak away gradually.
However, if the succession of beds is too long, the first
gets too much water, and the last scarcely enough ;
therefore, it is desirable to have a sluice-box for each
bed, independent of the rest, connecting directly with
the ditch. The larger the bed, the better, for less land is
occupied by the levees, and it is easier to work the land,
and gather the crops. If possible, employ an engineer to
determine and mark the level for beds and levees ; for
much time and expense will be saved by it. Clover
once up and set, is safe from everything except drought ;
and until it has grown enough to shade the grass some-
what, great care must be taken to prevent its being
burned by the sun and wind. Alter this, the water does
the rest. My first successful experiment was with a
small piece of land about one-eighth of an acre, sown half
with red clover, and half with lucern. This piece
supplied almost the entire summer feed for two cows,
during three summers ; being cut three or four times
each season. In August, I sowed half an acre of red
clover mixed w^ith whito. This came up and nearly
covered the ground before winter set in. In the spring
it began to grow neai'ly a month earlier than the common
weeds, which had threatened to choke it ; and, at last, it
smothered every weed and spear of wild grass wliicli
started amongst it. During the winter, while the ground
was frozen, I had a fine (juantity of manure scattered
over it, causing a perceptible increase in its thrilt. I
NEW MEXICO. 235
cut the third crop, September 15th, when it stood 12 to
15 inches higli. From these crops I fed, from May to
July 15th, two cows <and an average of lour horses, and
since the last date, five cows, eight sheep, and four
horses. The entire space occupied by the clover will
barely measure two acres. No place in Colorado could
be more unpromising than the very spot on which I
made this year three crops of clover. The soil was be-
low the average in quality, but was flooded ten or twelve
times, and aided by a top spreading of manure. This
system of irrigation must be too expensive for large
areas, but I have taken from it this year more oats from
one acre, tlius treated, than from four acres irrigated in
the ordinary manner."
In New Mexico, on level land, flooding is practised.
Tlie cost of irrigating canals will vary from one to three
dollars an acre, and the cost of water supplied will range
from 1 dol. 25 c. to 2 dols. per acre. The following notes
are from a farmer of ten years' experience : — In laying
off ditches to irrigate a farm, we first make mains from
the public, or company ditch, and in making them we
keep on the highest land, paying no attention to section
or other lines. Havins^ our mains on the hiijfliest lands,
we can easily irrigate each way from them, The mains
being made, we laid off' the field into lands or divisions,
varying in width from one to twenty rods. The divisions
are always by small ditches, which are made by running
a furrow both ways, and following with a wooden scraper
made like an A. If our lands or divisions were dry for
a long time, we generally preferied to divide them by
running anotlier main through. Small grain is irrigated
by flooding. Supposing your field ready — the main and
240 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
laterals all in order — commence by shutting down the
gate, or damminf^ the main, so as to force the water on
the land ; and the greater the amount of water in the
main, if it can be managed, the better, but no more is
wanted in it than can be taken care of. The main, having
been closed below, is opened at the highest part of the
land, where, if the ground is level from side to side, and
sufficiently inclined from the ditch, the water will soon
find its way to the farthest end of the land. If, however,
some portion is higher than the rest, the safety of the
small ditches on each side of the land is apparent ; for
then the centre opening is closed, and the water let
through the side ditches until it reaches the point of
obstruction, vidien it is let out to flow on again ; and
this may have to be repeated again and again upon the
same land, though generally there is no such trouble —
tiie water flowing unobstructed over the whole. When
tl\e land has been fully flooded, the work is done, and
the water shut ofl*. If there are any low places where
the water stands, on completion of the flooding, it should
be drawn off at once in the side ditches, which have come
into use again. Corn, potatoes, and garden vegetables
are irrigated by sending a stream of water between the
rows. Potatoes are easily spoiled by flooding, and do
not need much water until in blossom. When the leaves
of maize curl up in the middle of the day, it is an evidence
of want of water. There are indications of the want of
water which can only be learned by experience, but the
beginner is more likely to err in using too much than
too little. Standing water, if not drawn oft', will destroy
the crop ; and if too much water is used the plants will
turn yellow. In the irrigation of trees, avoid allowing
}7EW NJEXICO. 241
the water to touch the tree. Seeds should always bo
well rolled with a heavy roller or they will uot come up.
Sod land takes a great deal more water the first year.
Water penetrates moist much more readily than dry soil,
the particles of water having an affinity for each other.
Mexican soil is usually of a black colour.
Another authority objects to fi.ooding on soil on which
water is likely to stand, and he is in favour of making
the ground as level as possible, and using a machine
which causes the water to run in little channels — seem-
inofly a fjood method. He srives the foliowinix directions :
— 1st, Plough deep, where soil admits of it ; 2nd, Avoid
" dead furrows '' as much as possible ; 3rd, Endeavour to
make your land level, and keep it so ; 4th, Pulverise the
soil thoroughly ; 5th, Sow pure seed ; Gth, Run your
head ditches on a grade of not more than half-an-inch per
rod, and five to twenty rods apart ; 7th, Run the harrow
in the direction you wish to irrigate ; 8th, When the
grain is up and well rooted, and the ground moist (not
wet), roll at right angles with your head ditches ; 9th,
Commence irrigating before the crop begins to suffer
from drought, and do not cease because there is a slight
rainfall. The expenditure and trouble attending irriga-
tion is a great objection to tlie average settler, but it has
been demonstrated by experience that, by this means,
crops are always certain, and the increased production
will pay for the trouble, and it will be more extensively
resorted to, even when the rainfall is in some seasons
sufficient.
One of the most extensive and beautiful vallevs of
New Mexico is that of the San Luis, extending into
Colorado, hemmed in on either side by high mountains,
242 7'IIE BRITISH COLONIST.
and travorseil by the Rio Grande del Noi'te and its
mountain tributaries, skirted with bushes and a Httlo
timber. The Trenchara River, wLicli comes in from the
mountains to tlie east, is joined a few miles to tlie west
by tlie Sangre do Cristo, and then flows on to the Rio
Grande. A low stony mountain range, extending across
the valley of the Rio Grande, separates the valley of San
Luis from that of Taos. The Rio Grande passes thi'ough
this range in a most formidable canon. There are forests
of pines, and the views of the valleys, near and distant
mountains, are very beautiful.
The valley of the Taos is large, and extensively culti-
vated. It is surrounded on all sides by high mountains,
the Rio Grande both entering and leaving it by a gigantic
canon. The mountain streams are large and favourably
situated for irrigation, and the water of the river is also
used.
Through both these valleys, extending a distance
of nearly 100 miles from the Sangre de Cristo range,
there is little Gfrass, the natural vesjetation consistin"; of
artemisia, and a variety of cacti, chiefly the prickly pear.
The pines of the mountains extend well down to the
plains. In the high, small valleys of the mountains the
grass is luxuriant, and flowers beautiful, till trampled
down by stock. Here showers are of daily occurrence at
seasons, but in the broad valleys nothing can be raised
without irrigation, as little rain falls.
The Sierra Blanca range, of the Rocky Mountain sys-
tem, extends nearly north and south to the east of the
San Luis Vo-Uey, which is from 40 to 70 miles in width,
and about 100 in length. The upper portion of the San
Luis Valley, known as the Valley of San Juan, is rich
Mew MEXICO. 245
arifl fertile, and at one time abouiidcil witli grass, game,
and wild horses.
The Rio del Norte enters a plain through a canon in
the St. Juan Mountains, and it and its tributaries water
this fair valley. The base of the Sierra Blanca ex-
tends from the Sano-re de Cristo to Gunnison's Pass — in
the Sangre de Cristo. To the north of the Sierra Blanca,
but partially connected with it, a broken range of moun-
tains extends to the Arkansas River, called the Sierra
Mojada or Wet Mountain, from the amount of rain which
falls on it. The range on the west of the San Luis Val-
ley is called Sahwatch by the Indians, but is more gener-
ally known as the San Juan.
This portion of the country is, however, in Colorado,
the State line being about the 37th parallel of latitude,
and is crossed near Raton, a station on the Atchison,
Topcka, and Santa Fe Line, in the Raton Mountains.
The Maxwell Land Grant in Colorado includes 258,422
acres, chiefly of mineral lands, very little being fit for
cultivation, but of that some is very fertile. Those
bound to the New Mexican portion of the grant should
proceed to Raton or Springer Stations on the Atchison,
Topeka, and Santa Fc Line, and those for the Colorado
portion to Trinidad, a flourishing town of 8,000 popula-
tion. The Comjiany's patent was confirmed by the
United States in 1887. They can, therefore, give a good
title to purchasers. All through Colorado valleys, land
under irrigation is sold at about 100 dollars per acre, and
nuich higher, according to its situation. There are many
beautiful valleys, but the amount of good land is very
limited, and the country overrun with stock. There is
some charming scenery in this region, some of the moun-
24+ THE BRITISH COLONIST.
tain ranges having an altitude of from 8,000 to 10,000
feet, with beautiful parks intervening, many of them of
great elevation, the upper portion of the San Luis Valley
being 7,oG7 feet. There is oi'ten a beautiful blue sheen
on the mountains, and the sunsets are gorgeous. Two
miles above the old ford, on the Cuchara River, about 40
feet wide, on a waggon trail leading from Raton Pass to
the Pueblo on the Arkansas River, by ascending a butte
(hill), a magnificent view is obtained.
Pike's Peak to the nortli, the Spanish peaks to the
south, the Sierra Majada to the west, and the undulating
plains of the Arkansas. The effect of this climate on
the high table-lands and mesas, is wonderfully exhilara-
ting, and one experiences a bouyancy of spirits and a
greatly increased capacity for muscular exertion, which,
however, in the higher elevations, is soon followed by
loss of breath, requiring rest, from which, however, one
quickly recovers. It has been before mentioned that
rheumatic aflections frequently occur in this climate.
This is in consequence of the sudden and great varia-
tions of temperature. At an altitude of 7000 or 8000
feet the temperature from being 90° in the day will fall
to the frost-line at night, and during the day sudden
cooling breezes will cause the thermometer to fall very
rapidly. While a shower of rain is going on in the foot-
hill regions, snow is falling in the passes and higher
mountains. It is to be noted, however, that the people
seldom wear anything but a sort of cotton next the skin
(canton flannel). If good flannel be worn much of the
danger may be avoided. There are no flies or mosquitos,
and this adds an additional charm. Rattlesnakes abound
in many parts of New Mexico, especially in the Zuni
NEW MEXICO. 245
Valley. There are several varieties of these, and various
other snakes. The ground is so thickly covered with
cacti in some places that it is difficult to move without
coming in contact with their thorns, and travelling is
very tiresome, especially in the south-west.
The Denver, Texas and Fort Worth Railway runs
through the north-east corner of New Mexico and then
on to Denver. At Cuchara Junction a line leads west
into the Maxwell Grant country, and at Pueblo lines
diverge to all parts of Colorado. From Lainy Junction on
the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Line, there is a branch
to Santa Fu and Espinola (New Mexico), and a branch
from that point north to Denver. The whole country is
now intersected with railroads. There is still some fair
shooting to be obtained in the various mountain districts
in New Mexico, but taking pack horses and going into
the remote valleys of the ranges, bears, panthers, deer,
antelope, and grouse, and wild turkeys are to be found.
So much skin and pot-hunting is done, however, that
the game is very scarce in most places. In the Sierra
Madre Mountains, seemingly a part of the Rocky Moun-
tains divided by the Rio Bravo, some good shooting may
be obtained. In a journey of a day or two from Fort
Wingate, sport may be had, but that portion of the
Sierra Madre which extends into Chihuahua and Sonora
and west and south of Monterey in Mexico will afford
by far the^ best sport. These mountains are not a con-
tinuous chain with those of the same name in New
Mexico and are sometimes called the San Luis Moun-
tains. They rise abruptly from the plain about three
leagues north of the parallel 31'''20, and as they run
south assume the most formidable appearance of a
246 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
range on that parallel, west of the Rio Grande. They
are called in Sonora and part of Chiliuahim, the Sierra
Madre, but do not entirely fill the conditions implied by
that term, for the waters flowing from their base towards
the Pacific Ocean often take their rise to the east of
these mountains, and flow througli chasms impassable
for men, falling down the western slope in rapid descent,
producing magnificent cascades. Through their whole
extent, as far south as the parallel of Mazatlau, these
mountains are said to be impassable for waggons. In
the Sanofre de Cristo ran^ije on the west of the " Maxwell
Land Grant " some sliootini; can be had. Game was
abundant there, and trout were numerous in the streams.
North-west of this range in the Elk Mountains is a good
hunting country. Trout fishing also is to be had in the
Sangre de Cristo. These mountains are subject to heavy
falls of snow, and fishing is best in June and July after
most of the snow-water has run ofi*.
Those who desire to settle in New Mexico or in the El
Paso district, after selecting a place, purchase their sup-
plies at some of the large cities east. The rates from
Indianapolis, St. Louis and Chicago are about 3 dols. 50 c.
per 100 pounds, or 296 dollars for a car-load of 10 tons
or more. Supplies of every kind can be put on, and the
Atchison and Topeka Company will grant favourable rates
for passage and freight to a settler, on application to its
aofent. Real estate ao-ents in New Mexico advertise for
money to invest at 10 and 12 per cent, interest. It is
not easy to get a safe mortgage anywhere in the country
at such a rate, and it will be well to remember that these
agents usually get a handsome commission from both
borrower and lender, and are not over particular about
NEW MEXICO. 247
the safety of the security, if tliey can f^et the money in-
vested and secure their commissions.
Considerable attention has been given of late years to
the hreedinfj of the Anofora ccoat. Pure-bred Ancforas
are imported and crossed witli the native goats, of which
numbers are kept in New Mexico. At about the second
or third cross the mohair befjins to be vahiable. There
are herds of some thousands of the graded goats in Cali-
fornia and New Mexico, and small herds of a few
hundreds distributed through Oregon, and some in
Washington The climates of New Mexico, Texas,
Arizona and California, are specially adapted to the pro-
duction of a good quality of mohair, but the goats seem
to thrive in Oregon, Colorado, Idaho and Washington.
In New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, and parts of Colorado,
in rocky canons, where, on account of the difficulty of
getting at water, sheep cannot be kept, herds of goats do
well, as they can range in places inaccessible for sheep
and cattle, and where watering-stations, in a semi-desert
region, are few and far between. The occupation of one
would give an extensive range, without fear of encroach-
ment by other herds. The goats are not interfered with
by .wolves, but the kids must be watched ; and panthers,
occasionally, are destructive to the herd. There is a
good deal of trouble connected with the breeding of the
goats. The kids must be picketed with ropes and their
mothers brought to them twice a day. The herd must
be sheared twice a year, and supplied regularly with salt.
Mexican herders must be employed, as they are used to
the solitary life, which would be intolerable to most
white men. One Mexican can take charge of 1,000
goats, or even more, except at kidding time, when an
248 rilE BRITISH COLONIST.
assistant is required, and at shearing, when a party of
shearers is employed. The clip of mohair from a first-
cross would be only about 1^ pounds, coarse, and worth
only 6 or 10 cents per pound. Graded goats can be
purchased at Socorro, New Mexico, at four to six dollars
each, and thorough-bred he-goats 50 dollars each. The
clii) of mohair from a well-graded herd will be from four
to six pounds, wortli from 35 to 45 cents per pound, and
the kids worth two dollars each : the annual increase
being at least 90 per cent, of the she-goats.
In Mexico and New Mexico tlie flesh of the kids is
much used for food, and is very good, but amongst
Americans there is much senseless prejudice against it.
It would be better to commence with a well-graded herd,
as the mohair would then have a good market value to
commence with, and most of the he-kids could be kept
for the mohair. The cost of a Mexican herder would be
about 30 dollars per month; the shearings about 10 cents
per head. The cost of ropes and salt would not be much;
and when a herd is well established and graded there
should be a profit of at least 20 per cent, on the invest-
ment ; allowing for contingencies. Although the finest
quality of mohair requires a dry, warm climate for its
production, a very good price has been obtained for clip-
pings from the Oregon Coast, on which there is so much
rain. The demand for mohair is increasinof in North
America, as the following figures will show :
Consumption in the United States.
1888.
1889.
Foreign,
1,482,238 lbs.
1,720,432 lbs,
Domestic,
621,858 „
685,106 „
NEW MEXICO.
249
Tho prices of d(
jmestic mohair
aro as
follows : —
Fine Coinbinij,
domestic,
...
...
45 to 50 cents.
Fino Medium
)>
• • •
• • •
40 to 45 ,,
Medium
«i
• • •
ft*
35 to 40 „
CuarsG
11
• •"•
• • •
30 to 35 „
Curding
• • •
• • *
14 to k; ,,
Burry
M
• t «
• • •
10 to 15 ,,
Tlie imports of moliair in England, for 1888 and 188D,
were 20,000,000 lbs. and 17,300,000 lbs. respectively, and
the highest average price in England for 1889 was 19d.
per lb., and 50 cents per lb. in Now York.
The total production of mohair in the United States is
little over one-third of the amount used, and the quality
of the best domestic mohair is said to be fully equal to
the imported. At present home producers are i)rotected
by the duty on imported mohair ; but, in all probability,
the duty on raw materials will be entirely removed, and
then it will be doubtful how successfully the American
mohair can compete with the imported in price.
Of the importations in 1889 in England, 9,000,000 lbs.
were from the Cape, and 8,300,000 lbs. from Turkey.
The inhabitants of New Mexico consist of cowboys,
miners, Mexicans, half-breeds, and Indians. The mer-
chants are principally Americans, and most of the stock-
owners, miners, and many of the cowboys.
There is no danger to be apprehended from the Indians
in the way of an outbreak, as they are under control of
the United States troops. In the neighbourhood of
mining camps, and at places where cowboys congregate,
there is a very turbulent, rowdy element.
Of late years a number of respectable young men liave
taken to the business of cow-punching, as it is facetiously
250 TTIE nRJTTSII COLOmST.
callod, and it is to be liopod, but liardly to be expected,
that a little leaven will leaven the whole body of cow-
boys, for they are, as a rule, a l)lasphein()us set of ruffians,
and when under the influence of wlii.';ky generally want
to shoot some one, and often do it. The towns alonf,'tho
line of the Atchison and Topeka Line in Arizona arc
much fi-ef|uented by cowboys, and manslaughter and
murder is of frequent occurrence. Some years ago, at
Abilene, in Kansas, the town was set in an uproar by
cowboys arriving from Texas with herds of cattle. They
" ran " the town, to the terror of the inhabitants, who at
length appointed a very resolute man as city marshal.
Shortly after his appointment a drunken cowboy was
observed going along the street, occasionally liring his
revolver, and shouting that he was just oft* the trail from
Texas. Just as he was about to pass the town prison,
the marshal had got within reach, and, seizing him by
the collar, bumped him into it, saying : " Here is the end
of your trail, my friend." In a very short time the mar-
shal restored order in the town.
TEXAS.
CONTENTS.
North- West of Texas, 251— Valley of Red River, 252— Soil, 252— Val-
ley of the Trinity, 254 — Country on Headwaters of the Trinity, 254
— WildTurkeys, 255— Tlie Cross-Timbers, 255— The Wichita R ivcrs,
256— Resources, 256 — Valley of Rrazos, 256 — Indian Depredations,
257— Wild Hogs, 257— Indians and Texans, 257 — Character of the
Texans, 258 — Martial Law, 259 — Indian Raids, 259 — An Indian
Massacre, 2G0— Capture of the Kioway C^hiefs at Fort Sill, 200—
Settlements on the Brazos, 261— The Clear Fork, 261— (iame, 261
—Colorado River, 262— Mezquite, 262— Soil in Valley of Colorado,
262 — The Llano Kstacado, 263 — Mezquite and (Jrama (Jrass, 263 —
Mirage on the Llano, 263— Crossing the Desert, 264 Lost on tlie
"Jornada del Muerto," 264— Valley of the Pecos, 264— Valley of
the Delaware Creek, 265 — Its Climate, 265— Apache Indians, 266 —
Drought, 266 — Mountain Ranges, 266 — <iame, 266— Varieties of
Fish, 266— Reptiles, 267 — Treatment of S.iake Bites, 267— Mode of
RepuUing Snakes, 268 —The Pilot Snake, 268— Insect Pests, 268—
Climate, 268— Errors of Diet, 269— Shooting in Indian Territory,
270— Indian Tribes, 270 — White Renegades, 270 — Comanche In-
dians, 271 — Their Horsemanship, 271 — A Queer Costume, 272— Rio
San Pedro, 272— Eagle Pass, 272— Rio (Jrande Valley, 273- Tribu-
taries of the San Pedro, 273 — Fertility of Soil, 273— Distances, 273
— Organ Mountains, 273 — Hueco Mountains, 273 — Cuadalupe
Mountains, 274 — Altitudes, 274— Sierra de Loa Alamos, 274— Ceolo-
gical Features, 274 — Scenery, 274 — Dust, 274 -Indian Raids, 275 —
The Filibuster, 275— No Man's Land, 276 -The Cattle Range, 277
— Cattle Thieving, 277 — Tiie Cattle Barons, 277- Proposed Restric-
tion of Free Range, 278.
By far the most attractive portion of this immense State
for the settler, is the north-west. The four great rivers
o Texas — the Red River, Trinity, Brazos, and tlie Colo-
252 THE BRITISH C 01 ON 1ST,
rado — have their sources at the eastern base of the Llano
Estccado (Staked Plain). Between the 32nd and 34th
paiixllels of latitude, a broad belt of well-watered, well-
timbered country, projects for over 300 miles, like a vast
peninsula, into the parched and treeless waste of the
})lains : approaching, at its western limit, within about
300 miles of the Rio Grande at El Paso. The eastern
line of this immense req:ion is the western limit of the
timbered or well-watered country on the north. The
rivers mentioned intersect this wooded peninsula at
nearly equal distances apart. The navif^able waters of
the three principal streams of Texas — the Trinity, the
Brazos, and the Colora.do — approach nearly to the line
of the 82nd parallel of latitude, but the Red River is
navigable, in good water, a considerable distance above
Preston.
East of Preston the valley of Red River averages about
14 miles in width for a considerable distance. About
four-fifths of this valley is covered with large timber — a
few patches of prairie of limited extent only, interrupt-
ing its continuity. The immediate valley is about 100
feet below the gradually receding bluffs which border it,
and is overgrown by timber of good size, and best quality
— oak, pecan, hickory, elm, &c.
The soil of the whole of this valley, as far west as
" Red River Station," is a black, vegetable mould, with
(in many places) an admirably proportioned mixture of
sand, and of great richness. This is the finest cotton
producing region in ISorth America, and since the open-
ing of the country by railroads, large areas of the heavily
timbered land have been cleared. One bale of cotton to
the acre is a frequent crop, with good cultivatioiL East
7E}CAS, 253
and south of Prcstcni the prairie a'ld brusli lands not, in
the immediate valley of the river have a black, waxy
soil, very difficult of cultivation, as it bakes and cracks ;
and, in wet weather, its tenacity is so great that it has
to be cut out from between the spokes of the wheels of
waggons, and travelling on the roads is terribly fatigu-
ing. The general features of the valley and adjacent
prairie lands to the Arkansas boundary on the Texan
side of the river, are, as regards the latter, })rairie and
brush land, having a curious corrugated surface called
hog-wallow, and consisting for the most part of the
tenacious black soil before described ; and, with respect
to the former, a continuation of the rich alluvium of the
valley proper. Tlic roads through this section of the
country are horrible, in winter especially^ consisting of
a sueccssion of the pits, or hog- wallow formation de-
scribed, wliich is most tiresome to ,ian and beast. Pro-
ceeding west from Preston, the character of the country
changes. The "hog- wallow" formation is thankfully
left behind ; and the black waxy soil of the prairie and
brusli lands is replaced by a black, sandy loam, of great
f(>rtility, and admirably adapted to withstand drought.
Cotton, corn, sorghum (a sugar-cane), sweet potatoes, and
oats, are tlie chief crops raised. Next to the stiictly
alluvial soil of the river valley this is the richest and
best soil to cultivate. The country is adapted to the
cultivation of some kinds of grapes and fruits, such as
melons, plums, peaches, and the small varieties of berries.
On the rolling prairie lands south of the river and be-
yond its timber line, is principally a brown clay loam,
whicii produces well, if sutticient rain, but does not stand
protracted drought. In the valleys of the various tribu-
2S4 '^HE BRITISH COLONIST.
taries of the great rivers, there is tlie black alluvium on
the banks, a black sandy loam, and a calcareous sandy
loam on the flat pr&,iries ; the latter soil, however, re-
((uires more rain. Hot dry sunnners occur, which cause
a failure of crops on all soils but the black, sandy loam
and the alluvial ; the ground literally bakes and cracks,
forming deep fissures* in many i)laces. Dennison, in
Grayson County, is the principal city in this portion of
the Red River Valley.
The settlement of the surrounding rich country has
been very rapid and extensive of late years, and there
is no chance of securing any cheap land of good quality.
The valley of the Trinity, between the waters of the
Brazos and Red River, is aljout 117 miles in width, an 1
contains about equal proportions of prairie and timbere I
lands on its upper waters and tributaries ; but a con-
.siderably larger portion lower down. It is a gently
rolling country of prairie and oak openings;, presenting
a beautiful appearance ; groves of oak timber are so
arranofed that eacli elevated summit affords beautiful
landscapes of groves, parks and forests, with intervening
plains of luxuriant grass. Tliis whole region is inter-
sected by numerous clear streams, tributaries of the
upper waters of the Triiiity, and numbers of springs of
pure water. The soil is a brown, sandy loam of rich
(juality, and the whole country was covered with luxuri-
ant grass, in some places growing three or lour feet high.
Tiie region described is boundiMl on the north by the
Little Wichita River, on the east by the Clear Fork and
its tributaries, and on the west by the West Fork of the
Trinity River. For the sportsman it was a paradise.
Almost every grove of timber in the parks coaiuined a
TEXAS. 2C,
:>D
baud of deer (Virginian variety), and towards the
northern boundary, on the mez(pitc flats, herds of ante-
lope roamed ; prairie arouse on the plains, quail in the
timber and chaparral (sp.)) ducks on the ponds and
tributaries, and innumerable wild turkeys on the latter,
afforded excellent sport for the shot ^un. In the heavy
timber black bear and panthers were numerous, and on
the plains large herds of buftalo wintered, going north in
the summer. The number of wild turkeys in this region
was astonishing. In the autumn when the young broods
united they literally swarmed, and could be seen in
flocks of hundreds, so thickly packed when running
that a rifle-ball sent at hazard amongst them would often
kill several. When fat they often weighed 30 lbs., and
are of very fine flavour. For years the Comanche and
Kioway Indians, by frequent predatory excursions, kept
out the hunters and settlers, and thus preserved the
game and the beauty of the country. Sad changes
have, however, taken place of late years. Tlie country
is now covered with unsiglitly villages and towns, and
hideous snake fences, and miles Oi barbed-wire fences.
The screech of the locomotive, and the yell of some
drunken cow-punclier (cow-boy), takes the place of the
stillness of nature undefiled, or the sounds sweet to the
ears of the hunter; "and this is called civilisation; " but
one who enjoyed the cliarms of this lovely country as
it once was, turns from its present aspect wath emotions
only to be appreciated by kindred sjnrits. Two curious
strips of very thick timber, called the Upper and LoAVcr
Cross Timbers, extending from the Canadian Fork of the
Arkansas to near the 32nd parallel, intersect the valley
of the upj'jer waters of tbo Trinity and its tributaries.
256 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
The first of these, the "Lower Cross Timbers," is about 15
miles throng:h, east and west, and commences 20 miles west
of Red River at Preston; and the second, 8 miles across,
is 40 miles farther to the west. The principal timber in
these belts are the post oak, black-jack, ash, hack berry,
pecan, &c. The three main forks of the Trinity are, the
Clear Fork, the Elm Fork, and the West Fork. On the
latter there is some very rousfh mountainous country ;
but north of this belt, intersected by its numerous tribu-
taries, is the fine, rolling, park-like country before de-
scribed, extending north to the tributaries of the Red
River. North and west of the Little Wichita, and on
the Big Wichita the country changes to a broken mez-
quite and buffalo grass region, and except in the valleys
of these streams and tributaries the soil is too dry in
character for cultivation. This is a splendid stock
country and especially good for sheep in many places,
free from the thorny mezquite bush, which tears the wool.
A branch of the Missouri, Kansas, and Texas Railway
extends to Henrietta on the Little Wichita, from which
all parts of the region described can readily be reached.
It is, however, already over-run with stock, and the
fine pasturage eaten out in most places. Alfalfa would
do well and other grasses also, if properly started, and
this is one of the healthiest and pleasantest sections of
the State for settlers. Maize and all cereals, and fruits
of many varieties will flourish, and by going a few days'
journey some sport can still be had.
Separated from the head waters of the Trinity liy a
dividing ridge, is the valley of the Brazos, extending 150
miles westward to the summit between its waters jand
those of the Rio Colorado. It is very similar in character
7EXAS. 257
and natural features to tlic valley of the Trinity, but
ratlier more heavily tinibere^i to a point near tlie head
of tlie Clear Fork. Fort Behiap, on the left bank of the
main river, is 170 miles from Preston. The river opposite
tlie Fort is 73cS feet in width, with a f^ravelly bed, and
with a depth of only a few inches in dry summers. Tiie
water is brackish and untit for use, but stock drink it
freely. East and west the country is gently rolling',
dipping with a gradual slope of about 50 feet to the
innnediate bottom lands along the river. Bituminous
coal of a good (|uality is found along the blurts of the
main stream. Pure water in abundance is found in the
numerous tributaries which intersect its valley at inter-
vals of a mile or two, and many springs are foun«l
throughout the countr3^ In former times many terrible
Indian outrages occurred throughout the district known
as the Cross Timbers. Families were butchered with
great atrocity, and stock driven off, and those settlers
who escaped fled from the frontier, leaving their hogs,
which soon became wild, and roamed in bands in the
forests, never foraging until dusk, or during the night,
and affording good sport, as well as good meat, to the
hunter, for their diet of grass, acorns, and the pecan nut
gave a very delicate flavour to the meat.
A most bitter hatred has always existed between the
Texans and the Indian tribes ; and acts of unprovoked
hostility on the part of the former, were followed by
terrible reprisals. Indian marauding parties would range
down as far as Fort Worth, and lower still on tlie
western settlements, carrying ort' horses, destroying whole
families, and sometimes taking away women and children ;
and by rapid niglit marches, retreating in safety to their
R
258 THE nRITISn COLONIST,
domain on tlic head waters of the Red River. Many of
the Texans were little better than the Indians. Feuds,
marked by great atrocities, such as suiTounding tlic liouse
of some person regarded as an enemy, setting fire to it,
and shooting its inmates as they escaped, have not in-
frequently occurred ; and cold-blooded murders of their
neighbours were of conunon — and still are of not
infrequent occurrence. All this country is now thickly
settled, and Indian raids a thing of the past. The country
has tilled up with law-abiding eastern people, who have
established law and order in the country ; but occasion-
ally the vindictive, bloodthirsty cha^^acter of the Texan
manifests itself in the perpetration of some atrocious
crime on anyone who offends him. Many years ago,
malefactors in the Eastern States, who, by their deeds,
made the country " too hot " for them, departed for
Texas, and the letters G.T.T. would be marked on the
doors of their liouses. The descendants of these cut-
throats are still to be found in the countiy, and resort
to the old trade when they dare. After the war, the
military government of the State was a great blessing to
its peaceable inhabitants.
An amusing incident occurred at a small town on the
Trinity in 1870 ; Capt. , with a company of United
States cavalry, being in charge of the district. The
captain was sitting in the back part of a store, when a
Texan ruffian, with two revolvers and a knife in his
boot, having hitched his horse to a post, walked into the
store. His first act — with a Texas howl — was to sweep
oft a lot of glasses and other articles on the counter.
The store-keeper remonstrated, but the Texan, with vile
language, told him he did what lie d — pleased wherever
TEXAS. 259
lio went. Wliilc tliis scene was Ix'ini;' cuiicted, Capr. ,
who at once understood tlie case,, had stepped out at the
back of the store, and, fortunately, saw liis sergeant, who
was sent for a iile of men to cut oft' the retreat of tlic
desperado. Keturnuig to the assistance of the unfortun-
ate store- keeper, tlie captain suddenly presented liiniself
to the astonished ruffian, coverinq; him with liis revolver.
" Up with your hands." The Texan saw the captain
meant " mischief," and complied, and at this time the
sergeant anil file appeared. " Now, my friend," said the
captain, *' you will find that / am the only one who does
as he d — pleases here ; pay for the damage you have
done, and then we will see what we can do for you in
the ' cooler ' " (prison). The prisoner was disarmed and
inarched off.
When the management of the Indians was handed
over to the " Indian Bureau," the military was not per-
mitted to pursue parties of marauders into the Indian
Territory — bounded on the south by Red River, and ex-
tending to about 100^ of longitude, into what is called
tlie " Pan Handle" of Texas. The officers of the Indian
]3u[)artment were jealous of any interference on the part
of the military, and finding a most lucr^Hive employment
in handling the large appropriations made for this Indian
Dei)artment, discredited the reports of the fre(pient raids
made into Texas by the Indians, who, taking advantage of
the situation, and being able by a forced march by niglit
to escape across tlie boundary into the safety of their Re-
servation, terribly harassed the unfortunate settlers on tlie
frontier. At this time an exciting incident occurred.
iJeneral , on {> round of "inspection " of the frontier
jiiilitary posts, a-rived at Fort RichardsoJi, on the West
26o THE nR IT IS II COLONIST,
Fork (;t* thu Trinity, t'roiii Fort Buluap, witli a small osci)rt.
Tho clay after his arrival, intelligence was brought to
Fort Richardson of the capture of a number of nnile teams
employed by a contractor hauling supplies to the military
posts, at a point only seven miles from the former, and
on the same road Genernl had passed over the day
before. Further particulais disclosed the fact that some
30 or 40 mules had been cairied off, and many of the
teamsters brutally nmrdcj'ed by a very large party of
Indians. The general innncdiately (jrdered the com-
mandant of the post, with a lari;e force of cavalry led
by competent guides, to pursue the Indians into their
territory ; and, taking a small escort himself, at once
started for Fort Sill, the head (quarters of the " Indian
Agency." Owing to the occurrence of heavy rains and
floods, the advance of the pursuing cavalry was much
impeded, and before their arrival at Fort Sill, the chiefs
of this band of Indians, " Kioways," named Satan ta,
Satank, and "Big Tree," coolly walked into the suttler's
store one day, and, while there, boasted of their late ex-
ploit. This was reported to the general, who at once
surrounded the suttler's house with a guard. Satanta
and Satank were at once captured, but " Big Tree " — a
small-sized but very athletic Indian — jumped through a
window, taking the sash with him, and ran like a deer,
it is said, but was pursued by cavahy and captured.
Soon after this, the commandant and his force arrived,
and the prisoners, under a strong guard of infantry, were
placed in waggons and, escorted by the whole force of
cavalry, set out for Fort Richardson. Large parties of
Indians were seen on the flanks of the troops, and an
attack was expected, liut the force was too formidable
TEXAS. 261
for thom. Satank, who n^joiced in a most villainous
countenance, strenuously objected to return to Texas,
and commenced chanting his " death-sonf^." He had
managed to secrete a knife under his blanket, and, with
this, suddenly made a furious attack on his guards, and
was at once shot and thrown out of the wafju'on. Tlie
two rt^maining chiefs were safely lodged in the cells at
Fort Richardson, where, after remaining some time, they
were handed over to the " State," and were imprisoned,
but eventually liberated. They ought to have been
executed, but it seems that a fear of the terrible reprisals
of the Indians, on the frontier settlements, had their
chiefs been known to have been killed, induced this un-
deserved clemency.
The valley of the Brazos is well settled, also the Clear
Fork — which has good water. The country drained by
the Brazos and its tril>utaries is more uneven in its sur-
face, and more densely timbered than the Trinity, to the
east, or Colorado, to the west. Going west from the
Clear Fork, oak and ash timber becomes much scarcer,
until at the last tributary — the Double Mountain Fork —
it is lost entirely. The Clear Fork is a running stream
of 20 yards in widtli, with a narrow valley heavily
timbered with pecan, elm, and other trees. Here was
established years ago Fort Griffin, and at that time it
was a inagniticent stock country ; mezquite grass, form-
ing an elastic sward yielding to the feet like a rich
Brussels carpet, covered the valleys and prairies ad-
jacent, and horses would refuse all grain.
The country abounded with game, and also innumer-
able wolves, in attendance on the buffalo ; bands of
which wintered here. This whole country, however,
262 THE BRITTSH COLONIST.
became thickly settled with stock men, and large herds
depleted the pasture lands. Tlie rainfall i« scanty here,
and summer is often accompanied by loncf droughts,
rendering the cultivaticm of crops (hmbtful as to
results, and good soil for this purpose is confined to the
valleys proper of the streams. Passing west fnjin th(!
last tril)utar\'' of the Brazos, and crossinrr a dividinLi'
ridge, the trilmtaries of tlie Rio-Colorado are reached;
about 27 miles from the main stream. This vallo}'', from
the summit of the diviiling ridge to the eastern base of
the " Llano Estaeado," is al)Out G7 miles in width, and
intersected the whole way, at distances of two to six
miles, by running streams tributary to the Colorado. The
east side of the valley is e([ually divided into "prairies,"
and forests of niez(|uite tindjer, and is much less ui\(lu-
lating than the country to the east. The mezquite
becomes less abundant on the west side of the river,
until at the base of the " Llano Estaeado," it dis-
appears altogether. The mezquite, ' Algarobia Glandu-
losa," is conunon to Western Texas and New Mexico.
The small variety is a thorny bush which bears a long
pod of small beans, nutritious for horses and cattle. The
larger variety grows from 10 to 30 feet in height, and
from four to ten inches thick ; it has a distorted sea<>:lv
appearance, and afibrds excellent firewood, giving a very
great heat, and it is valuable for purposes of posts. The
soil in this valley is good, but the rain is scanty, and
irrigation will be re(j[uired to ensure crops.
The Colorado River is about forty feet wide, and
traverses the valley in a tortuous course. Limestone is
abundant and other buildimx material, but no timber
large enough for building purposes, such as joist or
TEXAS. 263
plankiiif?. The Llano Estacado is a hii^h, nearly level,
table land ; elevated, at its highest line, about 4,700 feet
above the level of the sea, and about 500 feet above the
headvvater-s of the Colorado of Texas. It is 200 miles in
width at its widest point, and extends from the vicinity
of the 30th to near the IJ.jth parallel of latitude. It is
125 miles from tlu; head of tlie (Colorado t(j the valley of
the Pecos, and is (hjstitute of timber and water on its
surface. IJeds of dark-red sand, and patches of hard,
pebbly ground with a thin layer of decomposed gypsum,
alternate. For about 30 miles east of the Pecos the
surface of the ground is hard, and covered with grama-
grass — " Festuca Macrostachya." Beyond this there
are patches of coarse Ininch grass here and there.
These grasses — the mezquite and the grama — of which
there are several varieties — are most nutritious, and they
can be propagated from seed, and in places supplied with
necessary water might again be rendered valuable for
stock. The name " Staked Plain " is derived from some
Mexicans, who marked out a course over it, where there
was some water at certain times of the year, in ponds ;
hence the name El Llano Estacado. During the middle
of the day in summer, when the earth and adjacen ;
strata of the air become heated by the almost vertical
rays of the sun, an incessant tremulous motion in the
lower strata of the atmosphere may be observed. This
is mirage which so deluded the French army in Egypt,
and is seen n pt rfection on the " Llano." Objects are
marmitied to an extraordinary size. A raven looks like a
man walking, and an antelope like a man on horseback.
The eye may be gladdened by the appearance of a
beautiful lake, with green and shady groves on the opposite
264 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
bank. So perfect is the illusion that he urges his horse
forward, thinking it strange he does not reach the oasis.
At one time he thinks he is getting close, but soon it
appears as far as ever. Cattle and horses are never at
fault in detecting the presence of water. In passing
large herds of cattle across the " Llano," a start was made
on a moonlight night, after watering the stock, and
filling up bari'els for the use of the party. Halts were
made < luring the day, and forced marches by
night. At length — miles olf, the jaded and suffering
beasts, which, with parched tongues, could scarcely
stagger along, would detect their approach to water.
Nothing can, then, stop them, and a mad rush is made,
and woe betides the man who gets in their way. The
water readied, they plunge in and drink till almost
bursting. Mules can endure thirst much longer than horses
or cattle. Some yeais ago a party of United States cavalry
were subjected to iearful suffering (on the Jornada del
Muerto, in Mexico), going for some weeks without water ;
liaviniT to kill their animals and drink ^lieir blood. Their
guide having lost his wa}', they wandered about and
could not find water. Ail the horses died of thirst, but
none of the mules, and when rescued many of the men
had died horrible deatlic>. The valley of the Pecos is
from two to four miles wide at the 32nd parallel, and is
bounded on the east by the Llano Estacado,and on thewest
by table lands gently sloping into it. The bottom lands
are level and fertile, and the river running generally in
a south-east d section, traverses it in numerous sinuosities.
For about thirty miles, — and fifteen below the 32nd
parallel, — tliere ?r' numbers of rapids; in many places
with a fall of two or three feet The whole valle^^ of
TEXAS. 265
the Pecos is well adapted to cultivation ; and, in connnon
with the low lands of New Mexico, is most favourable
for the cultivation of grapes, and other fruit, and irriga-
tion is easy and inexpensive. The whole country is
eminently adapted for stock, and the pasture of grama
and mezquite grass, was at one time most abundant.
With irrigation alfalfa can be grown, yielding many tons
to the acre, in the several cuttings, Tlie soil is, also, very
favourable for the production of maize and cereals, and
especially sweet potatoes. The river, though tortuous in
its course, is navigable for small stern-wheeled steamers,
from its mouth, to near the 32nd parallel.
The Texas Pacific Railroad crosses this river at Pecos
City. The distance from New Orleans, via Marshall,
and Fort Worth, is 769 miles. The valley of Delaware
Creek, a tributary of the Pecos, has agricultural resources
similar to those of the Pecos Valley, and can be easily
irrigated. The creek itself is a succession of small lakes,
ten or fifteen feet deep, connected by a swift running
stream. There are some beautiful springs, some l)eing
mineral, and others pure water, one of whicli bursts out
in a stream as large as a barrel. Some of the mineral
springs are of sulphur, abominable in smell and taste ;
but, strange to say, animals will sometimes prefer this to
the pure.
Here is a good climate, with pure, bracing air, and
mild winters ; and although the summers are marked by
high temperature, the heat is never oppressive, owing to
the dry atmosphere and constant breeze, and the nights
are cool and refreshing. Twenty miles west of the head
of ])elaware Creek, the east base of the Guadalupe
Mountains is reached. Tnero is some pine timber in the
266 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
ravines and f^orf^es along the east face of the mountains,
and on the ridges to the south, dwarf cedar. From the
valley of the Pecos west, about 128 miles, are elevated
table-lands, too dry for cultivation, but at one time
affording magnificent pasturage ; with plenty of water in
places, supplied by springs. This country was, not so
many years ago, in undisputed possession of the
Apache Indians, who ravaged the settlements in all
directions, and drove off the cattle, but notwithstanding
the danger, and constant enormous losses of stock, herds
were driven tliei-e to replace those lost, only to share the
same fate. The construction of the i-ailways, and the
consequent exodus of tlie Indians, led to the rapid
settlement of the country, and enormous Hocks of sheep
and cattle so ate out the grass, that during years of
exceptional drought, great damage was done to the
ranges. The three ranges of the Guadalupe, the Hueco,
and Organ Mountains, occupy the summits of these table-
lands, and contain universal deposits of precious metals.
On the west side of the Organ Mountains, which bound
the valle}'' of the Rio Grande, valuable silver and lead
mines exist. Abundance of game existed in this fine
country, deer, antelope, and wild turkeys farther south
in the mountains, and along the heavily-timbered river-
bottoms ; also innumerable quail, and good duck shooting
is to be had on the ponds, along rivers and creeks ; but so
much hunting has been carried on, that it is impossible
to designate any particular portion of the country where
sport could now be enjoyed.
The Red River contains cat-fish, very good fish for the
table. In the clear water tributaries of the Trinity and
Brazos, ou their upper waters, in the deep, rocky pools.
TEXAS. 267
the striped-lmss, a beautiful game fisli, up to five ]])s.
weigiit, were alniudant, and atfonJed excellent sport
with the live 1)ait, or spinner. A variety of perch, the
sun-perch, are numerous ; also cat-lish, which are caught
of a large size in the lower Trinity. The alligator-gar,
often four or five feet long, runs up from the main Trinity,
and preys upon the fish, and is a great nuisance to the
angler ; nipping oft' his tackle with the greatest case.
The small, muddy tributaries are full of craw-fish, which
are very good eating, and can ]>e caught easily with a
piece of meat on a string fastened over a net. Most of
the clear tributaries of the Pecos, and other rivers south,
contain the fishes before mentioned. Care should l)e
taken in fishing to avoid the mocassin snake, a short,
black snake, very poisonous. They generally di'op into
the water quickly, however, and there is not much
danger of treading on one. The large water snake,
growing six feet long, is abundant and destroys immense
numbers of small fish. Rattle-snakes abound everywhere
out of the timber, but can nearly always be heard and
avoided. There is, however, a variety called the
" ground rattle-snake " in Texas, having very small
rattles, which give insufficient warning, and they
are very poisonous ; found on the prairies only. In
decayed timber, and around old log houses, centipedes,
scorpions, and the tarantula, a huge spider, very poison-
ous and pugnacious, are found. Although bites and stings
from these reptiles are of infrequent occurrence, it is
advisable to be prepared for such an emergency when
camping out, or roaming about the countiy. The follow-
ing precautions will arrest the action of the poison. A
stop})ered bottle uf strong ammonia should be carried, with
268 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
a small hard rubber syringe. When bitten, put on a
ligature between the wound and the heart, close above
the former ; a cord or a handkerchief loosely tied round
the limb, and twisted with a stick, tightly, will answer
well. Suck the wound well, which, if there are no
abrasions on the li|)s, can be done with impunity. Then
inject ammonia into the wound, and drink a quantity of
alcohol, in any form. In camping out, if the liair lazos
used by the Mexicans are laid round the tent or couch,
snakes will not pass them ; the hair causing intense
irritation to their skins. One of the largest snakes of
North i^.meiica, the " Pituophis," closely allied to the
Heterodon, commonly called Bull, Pine, and Pilot, is
found in this State. They grow ten or twelve feet in
length, but are not poisonous, being of the constrictor
variety, living on rabbits, and other small animals ; and
are not numerous. Ants, mosquitoes, and other pests
abound in the lowlands ; and in some j^arts of the
timbered country north of the Red River, which is, how-
ever, in the Indian Reservation, there is a small tick
which is a terrible scourge, invading the person in
swarms.
The climate in summer in the central portion of the
State is very warm, and in places sheltered by timber
sometimes very hot, and during the prevalence of a
drought the thermometer will range considerably over
100'' at times ; but with cool nights the heat is
not exhausting. All alongj the Red River and its tribu-
taries, arid those of tlie Trinity and the Brazos, except-
ing the head waters and on the low prairies, intermittent
and bilious fevers prevail, which in tlie vicinity of
marshes or stagnant water are very severe, and occur
TEXAS. 269
chiefly in tlic aiitmnn, and aio much worse in very dry
seasons. The people take ({uinino to excess, with fre-
quent doses of mercurial preparations wliich aggravate
the evil and destroy their teeth. Tlie winters east of
the Brazos arC; as a rule, mild, with occasional frost and
sometimes a consideraljle fall of snow, and a fall of
temperature as low as zero; but this is only for a week
or so, and snow, usually, only lies a few days on the
ground. There arc sometimes heavy rains and Hoods,
especially in the Trinity and the low country on the
lower part of its U[)})er division near Fort Worth ; and
from there all the way south the valley is inundated.
"Northers" (a sudden cold wind storm) occasionally
occur during the winter and spring season, but are not
nearly so severe as those occurring in the southerly
portion of the State. The whole north-east portion of
the State is a decidedly malarious country, and compara-
tively few people escape an annual touch of ague or
bilious fever. The high undulating country on the
water-shed of the Trinity, and the plateaux extending
north and west to the boundaries, with the whole c<juntry
due west to the Rio Grande, is the healthiest and most
delightful portion of the country. The almost constant
cool and bracing breezes of the summer months, with the
absence of anything like marshes or stagnant water,
remove the sources of malaria and its attendant evils of
autunni fevers, and the langour and depression of spirits
which ensue ; nevertheless, even the most favoured dis-
tricts in the timbered portion of the State, and in the
Rio Grande A^alley, lower, are not entirely free from
miasmatic fevers and Ijilious attacks. Much of this is,
however, induced by eriors of diet. Strange to say, the
270 THE BRITISH COIONIST.
people, to a fi^reat extent, live on maize flour Lrcad, and
bacon, with a great deal of fat — a diet more suitable to
the Arctic regions than this latitude, in which wheat-
iiour, acid fruits, and fresh meat f-hould constitute their
food. Another injurious haljit is that of drinking quan-
tities of coffee, three times a day usually. In the country
on the head-waters of the Trinity and throughout the
" Cross Timbers " very heavy dews occur, saturating
everything exposed. The whole country is now well
settled, and there is no trouble from Indians, and law
and order prevail to a great extent. Shooting and
hunting in the Indian Territory, on the border of Texas,
is now prohibited under a penalty of 500 dollars. Of
the many tribes of Indians who used to fre(|uent Northern
Texas, the Wichitas, Wacos, Kechies, Quapasos, Chicka-
saws, and Choctaws, have long occupied the Indian Re-
servation. Some of the other tribes are extinct, and
they were all held in contempt by the Comanches and
Kioways to the west. They are civilised Indians now,
and, in many cases, have acquired the vices of the white
men in addition to their own. There are, however, many
of them who are partially educated, and have made a
good deal of money by farming and stock raising. Some
of the half-breed girls are exceedingly pretty, and white
men marry them to obtain privileges in the territory.
Man}" of the Indians are superior to the whites amongst
them, who are outcasts from society in the States.
It would be difficult to hnd a greater set of scoundrels
than the white renegades of the Indian Territory, who,
driven by their crimes to seek refuge there, were often
the instigators of " Indian " outrages, and there can be
no doubt that many of the marauding expeditious into
TEXAS. 27 1
Texas were led l)y these men, and attributed to tlie wild
Indians in the west ; of the latter tlie Comanches, and
Kioways, the two most powerful and numerous triltes,
occupy the country on tlie head waters of Red River.
The Comanches, the finest horsemen in tlie world, are of
medium stature, with briglit, copper-coloured complexions
and intelligent countenances, and, in many instances,
with aquiline noses, thin lips, black eyes and hair, with
a little beard, or moustache. Their di-ess consists of
leggings and moccasins ; with a cloth wrapped round their
loins. The body is generally naked above the middle,
except in winter, when a bufialo-robe or blanket is a
constant appendage to their wardrobe. The women are
short, with crooked legs, and are obliged to crop their
hair close to their heads. In addition to leiza'iiififs and
moccasins, a shirt of dressed deer-skin is worn. They
tattoo their faces and bi-easts, and are not nearly as good-
looking as the men. The men are haughty and dignified
in de[)ortment, and very vindictive when offended ;
blood only can atone for an insult or an injury. The
following incident will give an example of their horse-
manship. A scouting party of United States cavalry
once came suddenly upon a band of Comanches in a
small opening in the post-oak timber, which is low and
thickly branched, with mucli fallen l)riish. A charge
was made, but the Indians, laying themselves along the
sides of their horses, dashed into the timber and dis-
appeared like a lot of wild turkeys, and pursuit was im-
possible. The women ride on the same kind of saddles,
and in the same way as the men. Two young women
once, seeing some antelopes at a distance from their
camp, mounted horses, and with lazos in hand went in
272 THE liKlTISH COLONIST.
pursuit. After pnisuinf,^ some (HstjiTKv, witli ij;roafc
judgment iu ridinjL,^ the lazos were cast and two antelopes
bronn^lit l)aek. They possess a hiri^e nund)er of very fino
liorses, with remarkable staying powers, but com-
paratively few are fleet enough to capture the anteloi)e.
It has been noticed that stable fed hf)rscs improve greatly
in " wind " when subsisting entirely on grass, and the
mcz(iuite grass of these plains is the finest food in the
World for them. Some of the other tri])es of Indians arc
very fond of wealing artichis of costume presented them
by white men. On one occasion an Indian presented
himself at the tent of an officer, escortinir some cattle
througli the Indian Territory, in a novel costume. A
dark shadow fell on the tent, and, "How," was the
salutation which greeted the ears of the astonished
officer, who l)eheld an Indian, clad only in a " breech-
clout " (ioin cloth), with a tall (stove pipe) hat and holding
an umbrella over his head. When Indians get whisky
it excites them to fury and they " run-a-nmck," Much
injury has been caused by white traders supi)lying
them with the abominable corn whisky of the country,
which is done in spite of the precautions taken by the
United States Government.
There is a beautiful country on the Hio San Pedro or
Devil's River, having an altitude of 1,GS!) to 1,810 feet.
This is a clear water stream, with deep holes and some
splendid springs. It contains perch, bass (striped, erron-
eously called trout), and there is excellent duck shooting
on the pools in the winter. From Eagle Pass (" Fort
Duncan "), which has an altitude of 1,4G1 feet, to near
the mouth of the llio San Pedro, a distance of 68 miles
alon;iC the Rio Grande, is one of the most fertile and
TEXAS. zjy
desirable portions of the Rio Giaiide Valley, both on tlie
Mexican and the Texas side. On the latter, between
Eagle Pass and the mouth of the San Pedro, the tribu-
taries Las Moras, Piedras, Pintas, Locatt5, and San Feli])e
flowing into the Rio Grande arc all clear, beautiful
■streams. There is an extensive area of land in this
region within water level, wliich can be readily irrigated,
and all sub-tro])ical fruits and cereals can be raised on
the bottom land, {ind the surrounding uplands are
excelleint pasture lands. The roads are gooil, having a
naturally good foundation, and the climate is saluhrious.
The distance f''om New Orleans, rht Southern Pacific
Line to San Antonio, is 577 miles ; San Antonio to San
Pedro (Devil's River), 185 miles; Devil's River to Spof-
ford Junction, 52 miles; S])oflbrd Junction to Fort
Duncan (Eagle's Pass), 85 miles ; from Fort Duncan to
the mouth of the Rio Grande is 495 Go miles by river ;
Fort Duncan to mouth of Rio Pedro, 7P12 miles ; Rio
Pedro to Rio Pecos, 41'4S nules; mouth of the Rio Pecos
to El Paso, G94 miles, by the river. The distance from
New Orleans to El Paso by Southern Pacific, via San
Antonio, is 1,209 miles. The country between the Rio
Grande and the Pecos is intersected by three ranges of
mountains, nearly parallel, with a general direction north
and south. The first of these, the Organ Mountains,
commences on the east side of the Rio Grande, one mile
north of El Paso, and extends northward along the east
side of the "Jornada del Muerto," until it unites with
the immense ranges of the Rocky Mountains extending
to the north. Next to the eastward are the Hueco
Mountains, 24 miles from the Rio Grande ; this ridge
unites itself with the Sacramento an<l White Mountains,
274 THE JilUriSH COLONIST.
■which, continuini^ to tlic nortli, are lost in the main
chain of tlie Rocky Mountains. The most easterly
range is that of the Guadalupe Mountains, 108 miles
from the Rio Grande, and 54 miles west of the Pecos.
The altitudes of the passes of these ranges are as follows:
Organ Mountains, 5,4G7 feet; Hueco Mountains, 4,811
feet ; Guadalupe Pass (one of the lowest), 5,717 feet.
The intervals between these ranws aloULC the line of
railroad are occupied by hiLjh tableUmds, so that the
altitude of the mountains above the plains is not great.
Between the Rio Grande and the Hueco the mean eleva-
tion is 3,903 feet. The second plain is more elevated,
but at its lowest ])oint is 3,893 feet, and is, at its eastern
side, near the Guadalui)e Mountains. Tlie slope of the
plain, from the sununit of the pass eastward, appears to
be very gradual, and, with one or two exceptions, is
remarkably regular. One of these exceptions is at the
base of the Sierra de los Alamos, which consists of isolated
mountains rising above the general level of the plain.
The mean altitude of this plain is about 4,250 feet, and
its western limit is the range of the Guadalupe Moun-
tains, and beyond them to the east is the broad area of
tablelands and semi-deserts reaching to the Cross Tim-
bers of Texas. The geographical and geological features
of this country, embracing all the country on either side
of the Rio Grande, are of the highest interest. There is
some grand scenery, and the pleasure afforded by jour-
neys in various directions is great. In some portions of
the valley of the Rio Grande in summer the dust is
blind and choking, and the heat great, but on the
high lands the breeze counteracts its effects by rapid
evaporation.
TEXAS. 275
Tho sottleinent ami (levolopmoiit of tlio resources oi'
tliis country, enibnicing the whole of tlie Kio Grande
border, was retarded for years by tlie ravai^os of the
Indians, and the constant feuds arisin*,^ between tho
Americans and Mexicans. Tlie ])redat()ry incursions of
tlie Comanches and Kioways, accuni])anied by renef^xde
Mexican half-breeds, in which large droves of cattle and
horses were driven off, and tho inhabitants murdered,
were of freciuent occurrence. In addition to this, the
raids made by filibustering Americans kept the border
in a constant ?itate of warfai'e. The Texans never forgot
the inhuman treatment received from the Mexicans,
during their war with tho latter, and lost no opportunity
of retaliating. The following circumstance, which is well
vouched for, will show the daring and reckless character
of some of the Americans engaged in these raids. One
mild summei-'s evening a party of Americans, among
them a retired officer of the fililjusters, were enjoying
the twilight on the bank of the Rio Grande, o})posite a
point where was usually posted a ])icket-guard, de-
tached from a ^lexican military station four miles distant.
The guard of ten men were seen to approach the jacal,
dismount, tie their horses, and stretch themselves on
their blankets ; some to sleep, others to smoke, but none
particularly to watch. The conversation of the tlrst-
named party was rather of a jocose character, directed at
the expense of the young American filibuster, who had
joined in the Caravajal revolution, which had just been
ended with such signal advantage to the regular Mexican
troops. A little nettled, probably, at what had passed,
he offered a wager of 100 dollars that he would cross in
a boat and take the guard single-handed. His wa<'er
276 THE BRITISH C0L0A7ST.
not beinfT accepted, he oti'ered to bet " drinks for the
party." Some person, not dreaming he was in earnest,
indiscreetly took the bet.
The absence of the fiUbuster was scarcely noticed, and
the conversation about other subjects had continued for
nearly an hour, when it was interrupted by the sharp
reports of a revolver, and a yell, which reverberated
from shore to shore, giving tlie impression of many
voices. These were quickly followed by the rolling of a
platoon of musketry ; and then all was silent.
"Could tliat be S ?" asked one. "Impossible,"
was the reply. " It would be just like him," said a third.
Shortly after, a boat containing two or three men was
seen to dart acioss the rapid current, from the shadow
of the high bluff on the American side. As it approached
the opposite side, its occupants, not wishing to violate
the usages of the guard, called out in Spanish the}'' were
" friends," going over to see what was the matter,
" Matter ! Hell ! " answered a voice in English. " Come
here and help me to drive these mustangs in the river."
They found the guard dispersed, and S with one arm
shattered by a musket-ball ; with the other he was try-
inf to lead all the ten horses to the river-shore. There
is a strip of public land, between the lines of Colorado
and Kansas on the north, and Texas on the south, called
"No Man's Land." It contains an area of 4<,0()(),0()0
acres, and is watered by a tributary of the Canadian
River, and contains sonje rich soil. There is a population
of about ten thousand, consisting of cowboys, and out-
laws who recognise allegiance ^to no law, and find it a
sanctuary. There is now a bill before the Senate to
provide a Government for this community, much to the
TEXAS. 277
disgust of the population, whose business of cattle thiev-
ing, etc., will Ire much interrupted. Much of this region
has been used as a cattle range. In former years,
on the ranjije in Texas, cattle stealinix was common, and
a rapid method of increasing a herd. Much of tlie herd-
ing was done on shares, the cowboys getting a percent-
aoje of the increase, for takincf care of the herd. These
calves they branded with their own marks ; establishing,
and recordino' a " brand." This formed the neucleus of
a large herd, foi", strange to say, the man who owned
20 cows could often find 25 or 30 calves belonging to
them, which he proceeded to mark. The calves are at
first marked on the ears, by slits, or notches cut out, and
it was quite an art to obliterate another man's marks,
and put in his own. One stock owner caused consterna-
tion by cutting off both ears as his mark, so that it was
useless for others to put in fancy notches on one or the
other ear, as both the m xrks and the ears were found re-
moved.
The privilege of ranging cattle, free of cost, over all
open Government lands in the United States has been
enjoyed for years by the cattle barons, as they are called.
The Goverinnent has permitted this for years, without
directly authorising the ])ractice. The actual settler, a
man with very small capital, has found it difficult, in
most cases, to range his snuxU herd with any success in
competition with the immense herds of cattle barons, who
have hitherto had sufficient influence to prevent any
hostile legislation. Having nothing to pay for the
animals' food, they have been able to make fortunes, and
at tlie same time so to crowd the eastern markets with
an inferior grade of beef, as to keep prices down to a
278 TH£ BRITISH COLON t ST.
point which is ruinous to legitimate stock-feeding. The
demand for a superior quahty of beef is confined to a
small class of people, who may be called epicures here.
As far as the majority is concei'ned, beef is beef, and the
habit of bolting food, and little mastication, affords little
time for any reflection on its (puility, and as long as a
sufficient quantity is supjDlied they are satisfied. It is
now reported that the cattle barons will no longer be
permitted to range their cattle on the Cherokee lands in the
Indian Territory, and that, eventually, free grazing will
be ])roscribed on all Government lands. Should Con-
gress take this step it will put a stop to the business, to
the great benefit of farmers, who can then produce beef
of a superior quality at a price remunerative to them-
selves. Owing to the impossibility of competing with
this cheap beef by farmers who own their land and pay
taxes on it, the raising of cattle in the leading corn
(maize) States has been almost abandoned, and cereals
sold at prices scarcely paying for their production.
NORTH CAROLINA.
CONTENTS.
PiiOsrERiTY in the South, 279— The Negro, 280— Lawlessness and Dis-
regard of Life in Kentucky, 2S1 — (iood Feeling towards English-
men, 282 — Cumberland Gap Mining Company, 2S2-CIimate, 283
— Description of North Carolina, 284— Inland Navigation. 28o—
Water Powers, 286 — Seaports, 286 — Marl, Iron-ore, Coal, Lime-
stone, Building-Stone, 287 — Area of Timber, 287— General Descrip-
tion of Soil, 288 — Soil on the Mountains, 288 — Description and Re-
sources of Counties in the Transmountain Region, 289 — Mitchell
County,289 — Yancy County, 290— Madison County, 291— Buncombe
County, 292 — Henderson County, 29,3 — Transylvania, 294 — Hay-
wood County, 294 — Jackson County, 295 — Macon (Jounty, 296—
Cherokee County, 297 — Swain County, 297 — Alleghany County, 298
—Ashe County, 298— ^sVatanga County, 299— Clay County, 299—
Graham County, .300 — Rutherford County, .300 — The Tryon Moun-
tain, 300— Cleveland County, 301— M'Dowell County, 301— Rice
Producing Counties, 302 — Cotton Producing Counties, ,302 — Tobacco
Producing Counties, 303 — Cultivation of Tobacco and its Profits,
.303— The Tobacco Worm, .304— Climate of North Carolina, 305—
Character of the Mountaineers, 307 — Lawlessness on the Borders
of West Virginia and Kentucky, ,308 — The Hutlicld M'Coy
Feud, 308 — Comparison with the Cumljerland ^lountain Region,
Kentucky, 310— Illicit Distillation, 310— The "Revenue Oiliccr,"
310 — Prices of lands, 311 — Swamp-lands, 311 — Marl, 311 -I'rolits
of Rice Culture, 312 — Exhausted Farms and Low Average Produc-
tions, 313 — Cultivation of Grasses, 313— Grapes, 313 — Wine-mak-
ing, 314 — Profits and Method of Making Vineyards, 316 — Cultiva-
tion of Fruits, 316— Vegetable, 317— Shooting, 317— Fishing, 318
Islands on the Coast, 318— Sea Fisheries, 319 — The Red- Perch and
the Bream, 319.
General Characteristics of the 8uutil
The increased values of productions in the South, of late
years, is remarkable. The " Manufacturer's Record "
28o THE BRITISH COLONIST.
sliows tliat in 1870 the value of agricultural productions
was 571,000,000 dollars, and in 1888 it was 739,000,000
dollars. In 1880 the South had 220 national banks, and
it now has 472. In the last four years 14,000 new
manut'acturinic and niininof businesses have been orsran-
ised, and since 1880 its railways have increased 21,000
miles, for which 800,000,000 dollars have been expended.
During the same period the assessed value of property
has increased over 1,300,000,000, and the true valuation
over 3,000,000,000 dollars. In 1880, 0,048,571 tons of
coal were mined in the South, and in 18S9, 18,000,000
tons. In the former year there were 161 cotton mills,
and now there are 855 ; there were 40 cotton-seed oil
mills, with a capital of 3,500,000 dollars ; now there are
213, with a capital of 20,000,000. Capital has been
pouring in from the North and other parts, and new
enterprises are being projected in all directions ; but it is
chiefly in Alabama and Georgia that manufacturing
interests have centred. Much excitement has ensued in
the way of speculation in real-estate, vvitli, in some cases,
the inevitable reaction. A trouble which seems to
menace the future prosperity of the Southern States is
tlie " Negro Problem." The sclieme to promote the end-
gration of the negroes from the South is absurd, and, if
carried out, would paralyse the agricultural interests of
the country, in which negro labour is absolutely neces-
sary for its maintenance. Tlie unlimited enfranchise-
ment of the negro was a mistrke. It placed in the hands
of unscrupulous politicians a mass of ignorant and plastic
voters, who have been mani})ulated by party politicians.
A barrel of whisky would influence a considerable
number of such votes. Ever .since the Emancipation
NORTH CAROLINA. 2S1
Republican politicians have been tampering with the
nogro and using him as a weapon in the political arena.
If the negro had been let alone by those vindictive Re-
publicans of the North, who have never censed to set
him against the people of the South, the present diffi-
culty would not have arisen in all probability.
The tax-books of the State of Georgia show that the
negro, 25 years ago a slave, has in that State alone
10,000,{)0() dollars' worth of assessed property, woi-th
twice that much actually. This is a good showing for
the financial prosperity of the negro. The people of tlie
South understand how to manacje the necfro much better
than outsiders, and naturally object to having their
elections controlled by them, at the instigation of Re-
publican agents. The negroes are well treated generally
in the South, but acts of hostility or insolent behaviour
towards the whites meet with prompt retaliation. The
criminal records show frequent crimes of the greatest
atrocity committed by negroes, which are followed by
very summary punishment under Lynch law. The only
excuse that can bo offered for this illegal procedure is
that criminal prosecutions so often fail. Party political
influence can be so used that the course of justice can be
diverted, and, no matter how strong the evidence may
be, a conviction cannot be depended upon. In the cases
of such white desperadoes as are occasionally captured
and brought to trial, the fear of the vengeance of the
friends of the prisoners either leads to an acc^uittal on
sonie technicality, or to a sentence utterly inadequate to
the offence. Personal encounters marked by a reckless
disregard for life are also of frequent occurrence in all
classes of society, especially in the State of Kentucky,
282 THlL British coLO^risy.
and so serious has this evil boconie, that it is now pro-
bable that the sentiment of the people will lead to tlie
adojDtion of some stvenuous repressive measures. " The
Louisville Courier-Journal," commenting on this subject,
remarks : "Just now we are trying to discover a remedy
for the reckless disregard of life that characterises the
whole State of Kentucky. But the reckless disregard of
the provisions of the city charter at home are just as
worthy of consideration. We complain because the
feuds in the mountains deter capitalists from investing
in Kentucky ; but the lawlessness of municipal officers,
which has become common in Louisville, is just as injuri-
ous to the welfare of the city."
Lawlessness and corruptibility, more or less, will be
found in most cities in the United States, and no pre-
judice should be formed against any of the Southern
States in this respect. Southerners are hot-blooded rnd
quick to resent an affront, and too fond of taking the
law in their own hands, but they are generous and
hospitable, and are not prejudiced against Englishmen,
and tliose who are not fanatical champions of the negro
will find their social relations agreeable.
A [)lace which is destined to be an important manu-
facturing centre, is Middhsborough, in Bell County,
Kentucky. This newly-established town is situated in
the Cumberland Gap at the junction of the States of
Kentucky, Tennessee and West Virginia, in a beautiful
valley four miles in length, by three-and-a-half in width.
This valley is level and contains about 6000 acres of
fertile soil, and is surrounded by mountains, covered
with valuable timber, and rich in coal deposits. The
Cumberland Gap Association, composed of English and
^OkTH CAROLINA. 283
American capitcalists, own about 60,000 acres of mineral
and timV)er lands, and in all probability a large city will
arise here, for it has already become a railroad centre,
an ' new lines are proposed. This will aiTord a good and
increasing demand for agricultural produce, and greatly
increase the value of farming land in the district. The
climate in summer is very warm, in the valle3\s and
places slieltcred from a breeze, the thermometer ranging
to 100° at times, and malarial and bilious fevers occur at
certain seasons. During the winter tlie weather is very
pleasant and mild. In elevated situations on the Cumber-
land Mountains the climate is good all the year, and much
the same as in North Carolina at corresponrling altitude<=',
and it is in this State that the best ojiportunities for
investment will be found, as there is an immense area of
uncultivated lands, and various other resources capable
of development.
NORTH CAROLINA.
rr
This State lies between the parallels 3-i' and 3G°-30',
north latitude, and between 75°-30' and 84°-30', west
longitude.
The State is 50o| miles in length from east to west,
with a coast line of 314 miles. The Western Division,
which has by far the healthiest climate, is mountainous,
and consists of about one-fifth the area of the State —
10,000 square miles. It consists of a narrow I'idge of
mountains, and a plateau, in breadth some 20 to 50
miles, with a length of 200 miles ; and ranging north-
east and south-west, between the parallel ranges of the
Blue Ridge and the Smoky Mountains. This plateau is
the most elevated region of the United States east of the
Mississippi. Some of the mountains have an elevation
of over G,000 feet. Mitchell's Peak, on the Black, is
6,700 feet ; and Chugman's, on the Smoky Range, (j,(iOO.
The plateau is sub-divided into minor ])lateaux or basins,
surrounded by mountains. The Blue Ridge, which
bounds this plateau on the east, with an average eleva-
tion of 3,000 feet, separates it from the middle region of
the State, which may also be described as a low plateau,
whose western side, at the foot of the Blue Ridge, has an
elevation of from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, and is intersected
by many spurs of that chain, 2,000 and 3,000 feet high,
and many of them 20 or 30 miles long, and as high as
the Blue Ridge. This region slopes gradually towards
NORTH CA ROL IN A. 28 ',
the east, maintaining^ an elevation of GOO to 800 feet for
150 miles; fonninf]^ the Piedmont and liill country of the
State, cxten(lin<:j 200 miles, with an area of over 2,000
square miles. The eastern section lies on the s(?a-coast,
and extends inland ahont 120 miles, and is, for the most
part, comparatively level, but rollinf]^ and hilly towards
the west, and also contains ahout 20,(^00 sciuare miles.
Towards the coast the country is broken by sounds, bays,
and lakes, comnuiiiicatinix with some lar^-e navii-able
rivers, which, with canals, form a s^^stom of water com-
munication with the eastei'n and middle sections of the
State. There are seven large rivers flowing east (to
south-east) through the eastern and middle divisions of
the State, besides numerous smaller streams, which
furnish fine water-powers through the middle section ;
and, in the eastern, together with the bays and sounds,
they give an aggregate of more than 1,000 miles of in-
land navigation. West of the Blue Ridge, there are
seven other large rivers, which flow westward into the
Ohio and Mississippi ; the largest being the Tennessee,
which is navigable from the western boundary of the
State for a 1,000 miles to the Mississippi. The Roanoke,
one of the largest — rising a little north of the boundary,
and running along it in an easterly direction — is navig-
able to Weldon, about 100 miles from its mouth. Tar
River is navigable to Tarboro, 110 miles from the sound.
Neuse River is navigable to Goldsboro, 100 miles from
the sound. Ca[)e Fear River is navigable to Fayetteville,
140 miles. These last three rivers rise in the middle
region of the State, and have a south-east course wholly
within its territory. There are many other rivers —
some of them tributaries of those already described —
286 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
which attain considerable volume. Some of them — in
the eastern section — are broad and navigable streams ;
the Chowan, for example, beyond the boundary of the
State ; and Pungo, Alligator, New River, North-east
Cape Fear River, Black, Waccamaw, and Lumber Rivers;
and others of less imjiortance. Ije3'ond the Blue Ridge
the rivers all flow north-west to tlie Mississippi, excep^
New River, which leaves the State in a north-east course,
and flows into the Ohio. The estimated water-powers,
developed by the fall of these streams from the table-
lands and plateaux to the sea, aggregate about 3,000,000
horse-power. The Roanoke, at a point some fifty miles
above WuMon, developes a foi-ce of more than 300 horse-
power per foot of fall; and there is a fall of 100 feet
from Gaston to Weldon, aggregating some 30,000 horse-
power. The Yadkin, near Salisbury, gives 300 horse-
l)ower per foot. The Catauba (near Hickory) gives
nearly 250 horse-power per foot; and 10,000 for a single
fall at Mountain Island, 12 miles west of Chavlotte. The
Cape Fear gives an aggregate of 125,000 liorse-power ;
12,000 at Smiley 's Falls, twenty-five miles above Fayette-
ville; about 40 per cent, more than is found in Massachu-
setts, at Lowei, or Lawrence. Beyond the Blue Ridge
many of the rivers, of equal volume, and much more
rapid descent, give much larger aggregates within shorter
distances. The French Broad River, from Ashville to
the State line, gives not less than 120,000 horse-power
within a course of 50 miles ; and the Nolechucky
exceeds that considerably. There are numbers of
other water-powers in various parts of the State. The
principal sea-ports are Wilmington, Beaufort, and
Newbern, within the State ; and Norfolk, near the
NOKril CAROI.hYA. 2S7
northern line, derives a large portion of its business from
this State.
Marl is found only in the eastern section, but is
abundant in some twenty-five counties; oceuriing in
extensive beds, and easily accessible. Iron-ore of every
variety is distributed over a wide area from the head of
navigation on the Koanoke, being found in workabhi
quantities in about thirty counties.
The coal is bituminous. There are two beds, one on
Deep River in Chatham County, the other on Dan Rivei'
(upper waters of the Roanoke) in Rockingham and
Stokes Counties. The thickness of the working .seams
ranges from three to seven and one-half feet. Limestone
exists, but is not abundant. JJuilding-stone, granite,
marble, and black, white, red, mottled, brown, and grey
sandstone, abound everywhere. Timber— The United
States census tables for 1870, give an area of 40,000
square miles of the 50,000 square miles of its territory,
as still covered with forest. Among the most distinctive,
abundant, and valuable species, are the pines, oaks,
hickories, cypress, and juniper. Pines are the pre-
dominant growth of the eastern section. There are
eight species in the State, the most important being the
h)ng-leaf, the yellow, and the white. The long-leaf'^pine
is found only in the eastern or sea-coast region; the
yellow-pine abounds throughout the State; the white-
pine is limited to the higher mountain regions. Of
hickory there are seven species, and it is much used for
firewood as well as for waggons and tool handles.
Walnut ("black") is most abundant in the middle of
the State. Cypress abounds in the swamps and low-
lands, forming the almost exclusive growth of several
288 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
thousand sqimro inilcs of the territoiy. It is much used
for shin((l(,'s for roofs, like tlie cedar of the Pacific Coast.
]\hi|)le, liirch, l)eech, p(jphir, and other i-cinds of trees are
found. A large portion of the best of the timber lands has
been bonglit by mill companies.and speculators, and timber
lying near streams, attording i-afting facility, is well cut
out.
The cal)in(it-\voods are worthy of mention ; they are
the black-walnut, the red-cedar. Ijlac u-ch, wild-cherry,
curly, and bird's-eye-maple, and tliv. holly. Of the
twenty kinds of timber used in the ship-yards of New
York, nearly all are found in the forests of this State.
Tlic soil in the eastern sectioii of the State is generally
sandy, of little depth and natural fertility, with occasional
ridges very sandy and sterile. The rich land is princi-
pally an alluvial, or a clayey loam of great de})t]i ;
confined to the valleys of rivers, and the flat lands
intersecting or surrounding the bays, sounds, lakes, and
creeks. The swamp lands, with a dark peaty soil of
great depth, are of great fertility when drained, which,
however, would piobably be attended with too much
expense and difficulty for individual enteiprise in most
cases. In the middle and western districts — the region
of the predominant oak growth — the soil is an
argillaceous, gravelly loam, except the river valley-
land, which is argillaceous, sandy loam. The soil varies
veiy much in quality. The mountain sections are
covered with timber to their summits in most instances,
and are also covered with soil, in some places good, and
in many thin and gravelly. A considerable portion of
this mountainous region is elevated table-land, undulating,
and in many cases not too broken for cultivation, or too
NORTH CAROLINA, 2S9
rocky, and in nuiiiy sections one may travel miles without
seeing a stone. It is only about the tops of the liiLcher
mountains that rocky precipices are fbun<l. On ascending
some of these mountains, occasionally on their sides, Hats
of level land containing several hundred acres in a body
are found. The top of the Roan, the highest mountain
(except the Black) in Yaiicy County, is covered by a
prairie flat for ton miles suitable for cultivation, and
es[)ecially pasture-land. The ascent to this mountain is
so gradual that one can ride to the top on horse-back,
from almost any direction. The same may be said of
other mountains.
Mitchell County is a continuation of the southern
Ap])alachian plateau, and, with Yancy County, occupies
the basin of the Nolechucky or Toe River, which drains
the highest masses and summits of the Blue Ridge and
Black Mountains. On its northern border the Smoky
Mountains reach an elevation of G400 feet, and the Blue
Ridge, whicii forms its south-eastern boundary, has an
elevation ranging from 3(){)0 to nearly 0000 feet. Its
surface is for the most part very rugged and broken,
havinof an averaii'e altitude of oOOO feet. The mountains
of this county, as well as those of other parts of the
plateau, are generally covered with heavy forests of oak,
chestnut, and pine, with a mixture, here and there, in
the coves and on the higher slopes, of white pine, hem-
lock (Abies Canadensis) and black birch ; while the
lower slopes are covered with linden, sugar-maple, poplar,
walnut, cherry, ash, etc. The oak and most of the
timber is, as a rule, small, varying with the depth of the
soil, which is in many places thin and gravelly. The
sides of the Roan, the Black and other mountains, at an
X
290 THE BRITISH COLOiHS'J'.
elevation oven of five or six thousand feet, are covered
with a fairly deep, ricli, vegetable mould, so soft, that a
horse in dry weather often sinks to the fetlock, and it
seems the soil is even more fertile as one ascends. The
higher portions of the mountains are connnonly covered
with clouds, and vegetable matter being kept in a cool,
moist state, while decaying, is incorporated to a greater
degree with the surface of the earth ; just as it is found
that the north sides of a hill are richer than tlie portion
most exposed to the sun. The sides of these mountains
being comparatively destitute of undergrowth, with fair
sized timber, are, in many places, suited for })asturage.
The soils of the county vary in composition, and belong
to the general region of oak-upland soils, l)eing for the
most part gray and yellow argillaceous, gravelly, aad
sandy loams, generally of no great depth, and in many
places thin. Its area is 401 square miles; woodland,
105,580 acres; cultivated, 81,975 acres; in cotton, 15
ticres ; tobacco, 77 acres ; oats, 3990 acres ; buckwheat,
37iS acres. Population, 9435 — white, 8932 ; coloured, 503.
Aggregate value of real property is 304,037 dols.; j)ersonal
})ro})erty, 119,485 dols.; total, 483,522 dols. State taxes,
10"53S dols. ; county taxes, 3,49402 dols. ; school taxes,
2,055*40 dols. Live stock — Horses, 1094' ; mules, 321 ;
cattle, 3521 ; hogs, 0810 ; sheep, 3904. The total area in
acres being 250,040, there is a large amount of land uncul-
tivated, but the choicest parts have already been selected
and cultivated. The average production of cotton on the
15 acres noted is low, only 040 of a bale per acre.
The roads are few and very rough, and, in many places,
mere bridle paths.
Vaney Couuty i--^ ujuch the same as Mitchell in its
/^OA'T// CAROLINA. 291
j^encral I'catuiv.s. Thu iiiassivu spur of the Black
Mountains rises in the n.iddle of its southern end, and
projects nortliward almost to the centre of the county.
]>etween this mountain s])ur and the Blue Ridge, is a
deep, narrow valley, in which rises and Hows South Toe
River ; and on the west, in a similar gorge, Caney River,
another of the confluents of the Nolechucky. The county
is bounded on the south-M'est by a cross- chain from the
Blue Ridge to the Smoky Mountains, which, through a
considerable part of its course, reaches an elevation of
over 5000 feet. The whole of this county is very
rugged and mountainous, and the larger part of its
surface only adapted to grazing ; but in the valleys, and
intervals between tlie mountain spurs and ranges, arc
areas of undulating and hilly land, and occasional tracts
of considerable extent of bottom land. Mica minin*'- is
carried on both in tliis and Mitchell County. Abose
5000 feet, the principal growth of tindjer on the Black
Mountains is two species of fir or spruce.
Many lumber mills have been lately established and
iunnense ([uantities exported. The popuUition is 7G94 —
wliite, 7;360 ; coloured, 325. Area 270 square miles; wood-
land, 109,770 acres. Cultivated lands are only ID-Go per
cent, of the county area ; or 34,703 acres. Area planted
in tobacco, 84 acies ; corn, 11,200 acres; wheat, 3040
acres ; in rye, 1290 ; oats, 8057 acres. State taxes, llOoS
dels.; county taxes, 5,084-46 «lols. ; school taxes, 2,01704
dols. Live stock— Horses, 1077 : nudes, 595 ; cattle,
4824 ; Hogs, 7320 ; sheep, 4338.
Madison County, with Buncombe, Henderson, and
Transylvania, make the plateau or basin of the Fiencli
Bruad River: the largest of these natural sub-divisions
292 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
of tlie plateau. It is bouiidod northward b}' tlie Smoky
Mountains, and its surface is very rugged and broken,
being not only surrounded by massive chains of moun-
tains, but crossed and cut up by heavy spurs of those
principal chains. Its forests, soil, and agricultural
proJuctions are like those of preceding counties, except
that yellow tobacco leaf is its most impoi'tant crop,
nearly reaching 1,000,000 lbs. The population is 12,810 :
white, 12,351, coloured, 459. Its area is 457 square
miles — including 157,018 acres of woodland. Cultivated
lands, 57,490 acres, or 19'C6 per cent, of area. There are
1,026 acres in tobacco, giving an average of about
024 lbs. per acre (which is a low one). — Buncombe
County occupies the middle portion of the French Broad
Valley. Its eastern border lies upon the summits of the
Blue llidge and Black Mountains, and its western upon
the summits of the cross-chain called the Newfound
Mountains. The valley of the French Broad here is a
wide, open basin, with considerable tracts of undulating
and hilly land, and moderately mountainous tracts ;
while along its margin, on every side, are heavy moun-
tain spurs. The average elevation of the French Broad
plateau is about 2,500 feet. Agricultural products the
same as other counties. Population 21,909 ; white,
18,422; coloured, 3,487. Area, 014 square miles. Wood-
land, 220,454 acres. Cultivated lands, 1975 per cent.
Ash ville, the capital, built on the side of a mountain,
and containing, perhaps, half the population of the
county, is a fashionable y«^sort during the summer for
peo[)le from various •portions of the States, and especially
the south portion oi > <u'ih, aad that of South Carolina.
Many of the southerly, planters and merchants have built
NORTH CAROLINA, 293
their summer residences in this, and Henderson, the
adjoining county ; and there is good society for eligible
persons with proper introductions.
Ashville is the centre of two lines of railroads, the
" Western North Carolina " and the " Ashville and
Spartanburgh," the former of which extends to Salsburj''
Junction on the " Piedmont Air Line," by which line
xVshville can be reached from New York in 24 hours ; via
Baltimore and Washington. Owinfr to tlie lack of a
proper system of sewerage, typhoid i'ever has prevailed
to a considerable extent, and the water is not good.
Every effort has been made to suppress these facts-
There is one large good hotel, the " Battery Park."
Henderson County adjoins Buncombe on the south,
and its topographical features are very similar to those
of the latter, exce[>t that thei'e are broader areas of
comparatively level and undulating lands. There is a
considerable area of bottom and swamp lands ; that on
the French Broad River being extensive and fertile, but
subject to overflow. Tlie soil is considered less fertile,
on the whole, being a light-grey, gravelly loam, very
thin in many places. There is a mixed growth of small
timber, consisting of oak, pine, hemlock, and chestnut.
Henders(mvillo, the capital, about 22 miles from Ash-
ville, on the " A-shville and Spartanburgh Bailway," is
very prettily situated. Ashville, altliough inferior in
some respects as a sanatory, has monopolised the busi-
ness of catering for summer tourists in the district, and
Hendersonville is a dull place, composed of small, frame
(wooden) houses ; it is a mere village, but situated in a
pretty country, at a little less altitude than Ashville.
fSouth of Hendersonville a few miles is the settlement
294 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
of Flat Rock, whicli consists of a number of pretty villas,
and some moderately sized mansions ; the summer resi-
dences of southern families, who have tlieir own Church,
and form an entirely sej)arate community in the county.
There are a few Eiifjlish settlers in Henderson Count}^
Transylvania County occupies the upper portion of the
valley of the French Broad River, and is bomided on the
west by a heavy cross-chain from the Blue Ridge to the
Smoky Moimtains, called the Balsam Mountains ; havino;
generally an elevation of GOOO feet. This is, therefore,
the most elevated portion of the plateau of the French
Broad.
It is very mountainous and rugged. There are some
extensive tracts of land along the tortuous course of tlio
French Broad River, reaching often a breadth of one to
two miles ; which are very fertile, and produce large
crops of maize, but some parts are subject to oversow.
The large)' portion of the country is suitable for grazing
onl}". Timber is about the same as in other counties.
Population, 5,84<0 — white, 4,823 ; coloured, 517. Area,
3(S2 s(pTare miles: woodland, 77,B15; cultivated area,
17,907 acres ; (78r) per cent).
Haywood County occupies the basin l>etwe2n the
parallel cross-chains of the Newfound and the Balsam
Mountains, which lie at right angles to the main chains,
(the Blue Ridge and Smoky) at an average distance
from each other of about 20 miles. This Ijasin is drained
by the waters of Pigeon River, one of the tributaries of
the French Broad, which enters it beyond the Smoky
Mountains in Tennessee. This county is hemmed in on
all sides by high mountain chains of 3,000, 5,000, and
0,000 feet above sea-level. There are some tracts of
NORTH CAROLINA. 295
open, moderately hilly lands along the water courses,
and occasional wide stretches of fertile bottoms, especi-
ally on the upper tributaries of the river, and near the
middle of tlie basin. The average elevation is above
3,000 feet. The soils are of the usual description, and
are above the average fertility. It is one of the best
grazing sections, and produces all the grain crop.^ of the
region, including rye and buckwheat, but, as yet, little
tobacco. The mountains are clothed to their summits
with forests of the various species of trees. Population,
10,271 — white, 9,787 ; coloured, 484. Area, 582 square
miles; woodland, 115,032 acres. Area under cultivation,
40,474 acres; (10'87 per cent.). To])acco, 100 acres;
maize, 17,254 acres ; wheat, 10,054 acres; rye, 757 acres;
oats, 4,099 acres ; and buckwheat, 083 acres. Value of
real and personal property in the county, 1,574,080
dollars. Horses, 1,729 ; mules, 075 ; cattle, 8,588 ; hogs,
10,794 ; sheep, 7,043.
Jackson County is similar to Haywood County, but is
more rugged, and has less bottom and valley land. It
occupies the basin of the Tuckasegee River — a tril)utary
of the Tennessee — and lies west of the Balsam Moun-
tains, being bounded by the Cowes cross-chain on the
west, and extends south to the Blue Ridge; and includes
a high plateau, l»eyond it, of nearly 100 square miles, with
an elevation of from 3,500 to 4,000 feet above sea-level.
The country is well adapted to the production of grass.
The soils, forests, and productions, are similar to those of
Haywood. Mica is mined in the county in many places,
and gold is found, in very small quantities, on the plateau
south of the Blue Ridge. The population is 7,343 ; —
white, 6,591 ; coloured, 752. Area, 532 square miles ;
296 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
woodland, 130,317 acres. Cultivated lands, 28,000 acres;
(8'4 per cent.). Cotton only averages 038 ot' a bale
per acre. Value of real and personal property,
703,205 dols. State taxes, 121 "40 dels. ; county taxes,
5,504-82 dols. ; school taxes, 1,988-05 dols. Horses,
1,042; mules, 540; cattle, 5,821; hogs, 9J40 ; sheep,
4,907. Macon County occupies the valley of the Ten-
nessee River, which flows through its centre from beyond
the Georgia border on the south, towards the Smoky
Mountains. There is a wide, oi)en valley, along wliich
are considerable bodies of comparatively level and hilly
lands, with extensive bottoms along the river and its
principal tributaries, recalling, in its general features,
the basin of the French Broad, though much less exten-
sive. The country is better ada})ted to the cultivation
of cereals, and has a larger area, capable of such cultiva-
tion, than the neigl\bouring counties; but a large part of
the county is very mountainous, being hemmed in on all
sides bv hif^h mountain ranges. Alonsf its western side
lies the massive chain of the Nantehaleh Mountains, with
its numerous heavy, rugged spurs ; and on the western
margin is a deep canon, drained by the river of the same
name. There are two notable plateaux in the south end
of the county, on the summit of the Blue Ridge ; one on
the headwaters of the east fork of the Tennessee, and
the other on those of the Nantehaleh; both of them
ranging from 3,500 to 4,000 feet in altitude. The larger
part of the county is, therefore, better adapted to graz-
ing than to anything else. The soils and forests are the
same as those described. Mica mining is carried on, and
there are also considerable deposits of iron-ore ; and the
only extensive or profitable " corundum mine " in the
NORTH CAROLINA. ityj
State is found here. A railway has recently been graded
across the nortliern end of the county. The population
is 8,064— white, 7,395 ; coloured, GG9. Area, 539 square
miles; woodland, 170,170 acres. Cultivated lands, 32,G30
acres. Live stock— horses, 1,322 ; mules, 786 ; cattle,
6,918; hogs, 11,020; sheep, 7,492.
Cherokee County occupies the extreme western corner
of the State, of which it includes the whole breadth, at
this point less than 20 miles. It is bounded, in part, on
the north by the Smoky Mountains, and touches the
States of Tennessee and Georgia on the west and south.
The valley of the Valley River is open and comparatively
level, nearly 20 miles long, and from three to five miles
broad, and contains a proportion of good lands. There
are considerable deposits of iron-ore, and a great variety
of coloured marble on Valley and Nantehaleh Rivers,
The soil and timber are much the same as in other
counties. Population, 8,182— white, 7,790 ; coloured, 386 ;
area, 470 square miles; woodland, 149,156. Cultivated
lands, 28,603 acres. Live stock— horses, 959; mules,
460; cattle, 6,381; hogs, 8,241; sheep, 7,016. State
taxes, 10640 dols. ; county taxes, 7,37934 dols. ;
school taxes, 2,029\S3 dols. Total value of real and
personal property, 955,463 dols. Swain County lies north
of Macon and Jackson, along the waters of the
Tennessee River, and on the sides of the Smoky Mountains
on the north, which here reach their highest elevation of
nearly 6,700 feet. With exception of some open valley-
land tracts near its centre, along the before-mentioned
river and its tributaries, the territory of this county is
exceedingly rugged and broken, and the proportion <jf
cultivatable land very small It is heavily timbered,
29S THE BRITISH COLONIST
even to the hi^liest summits of the Smoky Mountains.
These summits furnish good natural pastura^^e. A rail-
road has been graded tlirough its middle section, and
will soon develop an extensive luml)er business. Popida-
tion, 8,784 — white, 3,284; coloured, 550. Area, 445
square miles; woodland, 107,825 ; cultivated land, 13,828
acres ; (4*8() per cent, of its area). Total property value,
503,222 dols. State taxes, 115'8G dels.; county taxes,
4,666-29 dols.; school taxes, 1,291-65 dols. Stock—
liorses, 548; mules, 199; cattle, 3,210; hogs, 4,375;
sheep, 3,192.
Alleghany Count}'^ is situated on the Virginia border
and is bounded southward by the curves of the Blue
llidge. In its middle section is a parallel and higher
chain. Its entire surface is drained northward into the
New and Kanawha Rivers ; this, with Ashe and Watanga
Counties, constituting the New River basin; the only
part of the State drained by the Ohio. It lies on the
north-eastern end of the long, narrow, elevated trans-
montane plateau, and has an average elevation of not less
than 2,800 feet. Its forests are of oak, chestnut, and
pine. Its soils are common grey and yellow upland
loams. Along: the banks of the New River and its
principal tributaries, especially Little River, are con-
siderable tracts of bottom lands. Its agriculture is
divided between grain, grasses, and cattle-raising. Its
population is 5,486 — white, 4,967; coloured, 519. Ai-ea,
276 square miles ; woodland, 74,859 acres. Cultivated
land, 46198 acres (2615 per cent.). Cattle, 4,822 ; sheep,
5,067. Ashe Countj' lies in the north-western corner of
the State, adjoining the States of Virginia and Tennessee ;
its south-eastern edge resting upon the summits of the
NORTH CAROLmA. 2()q
Blue Rifk^o Mountains. It is very rusfired and moun-
tainous, tlie spurs of the Smoky ^Tountains being thrust
out ahnost across its entire territory, and reachinfr at
various points an elevation of 5,000 feet; givinpr an
average elevation of 3,500 feet. It is drained by the two
forks of New River, which meet in its north-east corner.
Its forests, soil, and agriculture, resemble those of
Alleghany, and the whole transmontane plateau. Popula-
tion, 14,437— white, 13,471: coloured, OGG. Area, 370
square miles; woodland, 165,973 acres. Cultivated,
70,207 acres. Cattle, 12,005; sheep, 13,236.
Watanga County occupies the whole breadth of the
narrower part of the transmontane plateau, being
bounded for the most part, north-westward, by the
Smoky Range, and south-easterly by the Blue Ridge. It
is traversed in a northerly course by two massive cross-
chains, connecting the summits of the Blue Ridge and
Smoky Mountains, the Rich Mountains, and the chain of
Hanging Rock, and Beech. Its average elevation is about
3,500 feet. Its whole surface is rugged and mountainous,
with the exception of a few limited tracts along the
principal rivers, where considerable valleys open out,
with occasional stretches of bottom land. It is very
similar to Ashe in many respects, but on its high-levels
and benches arc the best grass lands in the State, and
cattle-raising is extensivelj^ adopted. Population, 8,1()0
— white, 7,740 ; coloured, 414. Area, 370 square miles.
Cultivated land, 44,753 acres. Cattle, 7,099; sheep,
8,941.
Clay County, on the southern border touching the
State of Georgia, resembles Macon County. Area, 189
square miles; cultivated, 12 per cent.
300 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
Graham County, lyings south of the Tennessee River,
resembles Swain, but has a lower elevation, and no fir
timber. The counties mentioned form the " Transmon-
tane Region of North Carolina."
Rutherford County lies between Henderson, Cleveland,
and M'Dowell. Its northern half is, in many places,
({uite rugged and mountainous (being, properly, a part of
the Piedmont division), and its north-western corner
rests on some of the summits of the Blue Ridsfe at an
elevation of nearly 4000 feet. Its soils and its agricul-
ture are much the same as already described. There is
no railroad in the county, but a l)ranch of the Carolina
Central, from Shelby, in the next county east, is pro-
jected to Rutherfordton, the capital of the county. At
present, the only communication is from that point, and.
stations on the Ashville and Spartmburgh line, which
passes through Henderson County. Theire are some very
pleasant situations, both in Rutherford and Henderson
Counties. Fort^'^-six miles E.S.E. from Ashville, and
twenty miles S.S.W. from Rutherfordton, high on the ac-
clivity of the Tryon Mountain, is a bench of land enjojang
exceptional climacteric advantages. At night, generally,
there is a pleasant breeze, and for several miles along the
mountain there is seldom any dew to be found, and it is
very rare for frost to occur, except in winter ; and when
the whole country above and below is covered with sleet, I
along this mountain-side there is none. Grapes do ex- 1
ceedingly well, and some of the heaviest crops of wheat I
and rye in the country are raised. On the eastern side
of this mountain is the earliest pasturage in spring, and
the latest in autunm, found in the whole range of|
mountains.
NORTH CAROLINA. 301
Thuusaiids of pcrs(Hj.s vifiit this region in tlie suiiiiikt,
to oiijoy the cool lu'ceze, which on tlic eastern side of the
mountain is dry and healthy ; but farther back in the
mountains of the French Broad, there is much dampness
and heavy fogs. The population of Rutherford County
is 15,108— white, 11,910; coloured, 3288. Area, 520
sijuarc miles ; woodland, 180,192 acres ; cultivated land,
():J,82o. Planted in cotton, 9G79 acres; giving 2079
bales ; average, 02 1 per acre. Maize, 32,783 acres ;
wheat, 8083 acres ; oats, GIGO acres ; rye, 689 acres.
Real and personal property, l,55o,G57 dols. State taxes,
218"07 dols, ; county taxes, 19,158 dols. : school taxes,
4,2G4 98dols. Cattle, 7080; sheep, 571 4. Cleveland County,
east of Rutherford, rests its northern end on the summit
of the South Mountains, at an elevation of nearly 3000
feet, and is drained by several largo tributaries of the
French Broad Rivei*. Its soil is very similar to that of
other counties. Gold mining is carried on in both
these counties (" Rutherford and Cleveland ") to a limited
extent. Population, 1G,571 — white, 13,700 ; coloured,
2871. Area, 4G4 sqmire miles; woodland, 129,115 acres.
Land cultivated, 85,752 acres ; in cotton, 19,238 acres,
averaging 032 of a bale, per acre. Corn, 31,339
acres; wheat, 11,116 acres; oats, 10,959 acres. State
taxes, 599 dols, ; county taxes, 15,255 dols. ; school taxes,
5,078-44 dols. Cattle, 700G ; sheep, 593G. Aggregate
property, 8,299,252 dols.
M'Dowell County lies on the eastern Hank of the Blue
Ridge near its highest parts, which exceeds in this
region an elevation of 5500 feet, and its whole territory
is mountainous, and its average elevation 1500 feet. It
is diained by the Catauba River, along which and its
soi THE marisH colonist.
cliiof trihutaries are wide tracts o^' ,)n)ducti\o, saiidv and
alluvial bottoiiiH. The uplands are as before described,
and witii a reddish-clay loam soil, streaks of which occur
in nearly all the counties described. A large portion of
the soil is adapted to the cultivation of the better grades
of tobacco, and it has the advantajjc of havinj; abun-
dance of limestones in the northern and middle sections.
There are gold and mica mines in the South Mountains.
There is a large amount of valuable timber on the
slopeh' of the Blue Ridge, and an indefinite amount of
water-power. Iron ores of a low grade are aliundant.
The Western North Carolina Railway runs through the
county, Population, 1)830 — white, 7l)*3(i ; coloured, 1897.
Area, 545 square miles : woodland, 122,121) acres. Culti-
vated lands, 84,798 acres : cotton, 23 acres ; tobacco, 100
acres ; maize, 17,(375 ; wheat, 0397 acres ; rye, 1300 ;
oats, 1090. Average of cotton per acre, 0'39 of a
bale. Real and personal estate, 808,274 dols. State
taxes, 18929 dols. ; county taxes, 10,55985 dols. ; school
taxes, 2,03804 dols. Cattle, 5125 ; sheep, 3125.
The counties in which rice is cultivated are as
follows : — Beaufort, Bladen, Brunswick, Caldwell,
Cameron, Carteret, Cleveland, Columbus, Craven, Cum-
berland, Currituck, Dare, Green, Hyde, Johnson, Jones,
Lenoir, Lincoln, Martin, New Hanover, Quelaw, Pamlico,
Pander, Pitt, Richmond, Robeson, Sampson, Wayne,
Tyrrell. Area, 10,840 acres ; produce, 5,009,191 lbs. ;
51716 lbs. per acre.
The principal cotton-producing counties are : — Anson,
Beaufort, Berlie, Cabarrus, Chatham, Cleveland, Craven,
Cumberland, Duplin, Edgecombe, Fraidvlin, Gaston, Green,
Halifax, Harnct, Hertford, Iredel, Johnson^ Jones,
NORTH CAROLINA, joj
Lenoir, Kicliiiiond, llobuson, Sampson, Wayne, Tyncll,
Martin, Alocklenliuri^li, More, Nask, Nortliaiiipton,
Pitt, Richmond, Rowan, Wake, Warren, and Wil-
son. Tiie nniiiber of acres in rice is l(),<S4l) and
tlic production is 5,(j()!),19l lbs., or olTs lbs. ])er
acre.
The area in cotton is 893,15.S acres, and the produce
88!),.51)(S bales, an average of '48 of a bale per acre.
The cliief tiibacco-producing counties are Rockingham,
with 4,341,250 lbs., and Caswell, Granville, and Person,
with from 3 to 4,000,000 lljs. Other principal counties
are Alamance, Davidson, Davie, Forsyth, liedel, Madi-
son, Orange, Stokes, Surrey, Wairen, etc. Area in
tobacco, 57,208 acres; production, 20,980,213 lbs.; average
l>er acre, 41717 Ib.s.
The successful cultivation of tobacco re(|uires a rich
and deep soil, with the addition of an abundant supply
of fertilisers. The followini!* notes on the culture of
tobacco are from one of the most successful and ex-
l)erienced agriculturists in the States. The most valu-
able grade of tobacco now grown in the United States,
is produced in a portion of the Susquehanna Valley, in
Penn.sylvania, in Connecticut and Kentucky. Havana
seed is used ; the tobacco being darker and stronger
than the light-coloured leaf of North Carolina, which,
however, is much milder and pleasanter for smoking
tobacco. The land on which the Havana seed-tobacco i.s
grown in Pennsylvania is valued at 200 dollars per acre,
at least, iind in some places as high as 300 to 350 dollars
per acre. The crop on i^i\ acres gave a gross return of
240 dols. per acre, yielding 1500 lb.s. of tobacco, which is at
the rate of about 15 cents pei' lb.
304 TttE B kins ft COLONIST,
The ex[)onses of cultivation, togetlier with mi alluw-
ancc of 40 dollars per acre for manure, amounts to one-
lialf of tlie gross returns, or 120 dollars ])er acre. As-
suming the land to be worth 200 dollars per acre, interest
at the rate of six per cent, must be deducted from this
amount, leaving a net i)rolit of 108 dollars per aci'c.
The average price of this grade of tobacco is from 13 to
IG cents per lb. ; cured in the leaf. Tobacco, grown
from the ordinary native seed, yields sometimes 2000
lbs. to the acre, but the average price is only eight cents
per lb. The successful curing of tobacco requires great
experience, as the crop can be easily damaged by over-
heating in the drying-house. The plants are raised on
a piece of rich, virgin, sandy loam, and, when a few
inches higli, set out in the field, and if the ground is not
sufficiently moist, the ])lants must be watered at setting
out. The great enemy of the plant is the tobacco hawk-
moth, or horn-blower of Maryland, Macrosila (S|)hinx)
Carolina, Linn, which is a large moth, the caterpillar of
which, commonly known as the tobacco-worm, is very
destructive to the leaf of the tobacco-plant when the
worm is young, by eating holes in the leaves, thus spoil-
ing them for use as wrappers for cigars, and, when old,
by devouring the whole of the leaf. The q^^^ is de-
posited singly on the leaf of the tobacco plant, and the
young worm when hatched, by the heat of the sun,
commences to eat holes in the leaf, and sheds its skin
several times before attaining its full size ; it then goes
into the earth, and the pupa is formed in a subterranean
cell, the late broods remaining as pupae all the winter,
and coming out as the perfect tiy the following spring.
The insect appears from Juno and July until late in the!
NORTH CAROLINA. 305
autumn. It hovers in the twihixht, Hke a hunimino--
bird, over flowers, honeysuckle, and tlie Datura Stra-
monium — commonly called Jamestown " Weed " in the
States — sucking the nectar by means of its lonof, flexible
tongue, which, when at rest, is coiled up like a watch-
spring under the head.
The tongue, when unrolled, measures four to six
inches in length ; and the caterpillar feeds also on the
potato, red pepper, and tomato, as well as the tobacco.
Various plans are adopted for tho purpose of destroying
these insects, such as driving turkeys into the tobacco
fields, paying a small premium to children for killing
the flies, as they hover over the flowers in tlie evening.
Deep ploughing after the crop is harvested, destroys the
pupae, by exposing them to the action of frost.
The young plants in the beds are subjected to the
ravages of flies — similar to the turnip-fly, which are,
however, easily exterminated or kei)t oft'. It will be
seen that tobacco culture, under favourable circum-
stances, is very profitable, but it cannot be successfully
attempted on any but very rich land with an unstinted
allowance for manure, of which properly decomposed
stable manure is the best. A planter who is not pre-
pared to dry his own crops, can often sell to " com-
panies" who make this a business ; but in this case a
lower price per lb. will be obtained. Much of the
tobacco land in the State has been so impoverished by
continued cropping, that it will not produce a paying
crop. iabour is, however, not much, if anything, over
half the cost of that in the Northern States, and tobacco
should be one of the most profitable crops in the South.
The climate of North Carolina ranges from the sub-
y
3o6 THE BRITISH COLONIST.
tropical on the coast to the temperate in the mountainous
region. The annual mean temperature for the State is
59° Fahr. Mean for summer, 75°, winter, 43° ; annual
rainfall, 45 inches. The temperature for Ashville, eleva-
tion about 2,200 ft., is given for the transmontane
region as follows : — mean annual, 54° ; summer, 71° ;
winter, 38°. The maximum temperatures recorded for
July and August, on one day in each month only, were
87° and 85° respectively; but there are days on wliich it
will reach 90° and even more. The heat varies with the
altitude. On the high lands in Yancy County it is too
damp and cold to raise maize, and considerably cooler
than at Ashville. At an altitude of 1000 feet and under,
the thermometer will occasionally mark 100° or over,
especially when a thunderstorm is impending. There is
a great deal of rain in the mountain region, during the
spring and summer months, as f(jllo\vs : — March, 4"55
inches; April, 2*80 inches; May, 6*70 inches; June, 47()
inches ; July, 40 inches. The humidity of the atmo-
sphere and the sultry weather preceding f reciuent thunder-
storms renders the climate somewhat relaxing, at any but
the higlier altitudes — from 3,500 to 5,000 feet ; and in the
small valleys and basins in this region, sheltered as they
are from a full current of air, the heat is quite oppressive
at times. It must be remembered that it does not require
a high temperature to produce this effect, and 85° (in
the shade) will cause much more discomfort than 100° in
Minnesota, Manitoba, or California. People coming
from the sweltering regions of the South, Pennsylvania,
Philadelphia and New York, the two latter especially,
are charmed with Ashville ; the nights are cool and
pleasant as a rule, and after living in an oven it is a
NORTH CAROLINA. 307
happy cliange to sit outside ariywliere. The autumn and
winter in this region is much the pleasantest period of
the year; except for the inhabitants of tropical regions.
Except on the high mountains the climate is not, h^ any
means, free from malarial influence. Along the French
Broad, and on the hanks of sluggish streams, and in
some of the basins between the mountains, ague and
bilious fevers prevail in the autumn, and quinine (called
rpli-nine) and mercurial preparations are freely dispensed,
and taken ad lihitiiin. Taking it all the year round,
however, the climate of this ti'ansmontane, and also of
similar elevated regions in the Cund^erland Mountains, is
much superior to that of the majority of the States in
the Union. The climate of the cotton and rice producino-
counties is exceedingly warm, oppressive and debilitating,
and very malarious, especially in the vicinity of the I'ice
lands, and oven the acclimatised planters leave and go
north duiing the hot season and most malarious periods.
Negro labour is an absolute necessity for the cultivation
of cro]">s in the lowlands of North Carolina, for very few
white men can withstand the enervating influence of the
climate.
The inhabitants of the mountainous regions of the
State are for the most part a very primitive set of
people, living in rough log-cabins, cultivating a little
corn, and keeping a little stock which ranges free on the
mountains. They live in the rudest manner, and their
diet consists of hog, hominy and coffee, principally. Tiie
hog is eaten in the form of fat bacon, swimming in
grease ; and hominy is a preparation of maize or corn.
Occasionally fresh meat, either game or beef, is procured,
which is fried in bacon fat, in thin strips. At other
30^ TITE BRTTTSH COLONTST.
times, on special occasions, a chicken is run down by the
juveniles of the family, decapitated, and what little
flavour there may be in it abstracted by dippinsj it in
boilinor water in the feathery process. This is then cut
in small pieces and fried in fat, and together with some
hot flour biscuits or rolls, reeking with soda, and black
coflee, constitute a feast. Tliey liave no knowledge of
cooking beyond this, and boiling plain vegetables. Along
the borders of this State, and West Virginia and
Tennessee, in places remote from railway communication
and even proper roads, a lawless set of miscreants exist,
who can elude capture, wlien attempted, by going from
one State into another, and against whom peaceable in-
habitants are afraid to " inform," fearing retaliation,
which would certainly follow. These districts are, there-
fore, not desiraVjle as a place of residence by respectable
people, and until they are rendered more accessible, there
is not likely to be much improvement in the state of
society. It is, however, on the borders o£ West Virginia
and Kentucky, that outlaws most abound. Family feuds
have been maintained for years, and illicit distillation of
whisky, in defiance of revenue officers, is a common
business. The celebrated Hatfield-M'Coy feud has
raged ever since the war of secession. Eight persons
have been murdered (some of them shot in the baok) and
nine persons wounded and seriously injured. Of the few
members of these gangs recently brought to trial, only
one, a friendless servant of one of the leaders, who says
he was forced — on penalty of death — to participate in
their crimes, has been sentenced to death ; this being
the first legal execution to take place in the history of
Pike County, Kentuck3^
NORTH CAROLINA. 309
Three others, including a Justice of the Peace, although
equally guilty, are sentenced by the jury to imprison-
ment for life, but their friends hope to mitigate even
this sentence. Tlie jury having the power of sentencing
criminals in Kentucky, one of them in this case objected
to hanging, as in the Cronin murder case at Chicago.
The leaders of these gangs are still at large, and even
living now within reach of the law, with impunity, well
armed, and defying all authority. It is now reported that
State troops (militia) are utterly unable to cope with
these ruffians, and that the captain of the militia has b(?cn
hiding for days, fearing to return to his home. Forty
per cent, of the peoi)leare said to sympathise with one or
the other party of these men, and as they are well fortified
in their strongholds, in a rough mountainous country,
and have information from their friends and others who
are terrorised, it is difficult for any armed body or posse,
to approach tliem.
When it is considered that this sort of lawlessness has
been in existence for years in some of the oldest States
in the Union, it will naturally be inferred that there is
something rotten in their methods of government, if it
can be called such. All through the Cumberland Moun-
tains, between Kentucky and West Virginia, and extend-
ing into Tennessee, are pleasant and desirable j^laces for
settlers, with a similar, if not better, climate to that of
the highlands of North Carolina; but until law and
Older is established, and the outlaws routed out, neither
life nor property will be safe. These men, accustomed to
the constant use of the rifle in hunting, are deadly shots,
and it is difficult to organise a " posse " in their pursuit.
Comparatively few cases of lawlessness have occurred in
310 - THE BRITISH COLONIST.
the mountains of North Carolina; and, beyond knocking
over a " revenue officer" now and then, the mountaineers
are peaceable.
Some years ago a clever trick was played on a revenue
officer in this State. The illicit distillers in the moun-
tains desired to run out a lot of wliisky, distilled from
maize. They therefore prepared a waggon-load of
whisky barrels, filled with water, and having a wooden
tube inserted into each barrel, containing whisky, and
into which the bung fitted. This load of barrels was
conveyed to the sea-coast by one route, and by another
(parallel one) a large " run " of wliisky. The revenue
officer had been on the alert for some time, and a pre-
tended confession was made to him by one of the
smugglers, which led to the discovery of the load of
barrels prepared for him. The driver of the waggon
protested that it was not whisky, but the officer in
triumph produced a sample from the tube, and, with the
satisfaction of a man who has made a skilful capture,
proceeded to secure his prize. In the meantime, how-
ever, the party in charge of the " real run," who had
been secreted, succeeded in getting ofi' the whole of it.
When the officer discovered the trick played on iiim, he
was so laughed at that he left the country.
Within the past year or two railways are being laid
out, which will intersect the transmontane region, and
cfi'ect much improvement in the establishment of new
settlements, and by bringing a desirable class of settlers
into the country. From the description of the various
counties and their soils, prepared by Prof. W. C. Kerr,
late State Geologist and Special United States Census
Agent, intending settlers will, in a measure, be able to
NORTH CAROLINA, 311
select a county which may meet their requirements.
The counties of Henderson, Rutherford, Buncombe, and
M'Dowell, and others intersected by the lines of railroad,
offer superior social attractions. The price of land varies
with the distance from market and quality of the soil.
In cases where the soil is mucli impoverished by continu-
ous cropping, farms will be offered cheap. Houses and
outbuildings and fences will be very poor and dilapidated.
The best quality of " improved " farming lands can be
purchased from 15 to 25 dols., or, in exceptional cases, 40
to 50 dols. Unimproved land sells from 3 to 10 dols.
per acre. Tlie swamp lands of the eastern portion of
the State are said to contain quantities of lands of high
fertility, requiring drainage and clearing of timber ; and
such lands can be bought at 1 dollar, and even less, per
acre, and would produce heavy crops. The counties in
which these lands are found arc Cauiden, Pasquotank,
Perquimaus, Chowan, Dare, Tyrrell, Hyde, Pandico,
Craven, Onslow, Pendei', Brunswick, Hertford, Pitt^
Gi'een, Lenoir, Duplin, and Columbus. In Perquimaus
there is a considerable amount of semi-swamp land, easily
drained ; but in Dare it is little above tide-level. In
Brunswick, along the Cape Fear, are some of the finest
rice lands in the country. Marl is abundant in a num-
ber of counties, widely distributed, and is of four kinds,
viz., green-sand, eocene, miocene, and Triassic ; and is
found in Beaufort, Bertie, Bladen, Columbus, Duplin
Edgecombe, Gates, Halifax, Hertford, Lenoir, Martin,
Nash, Pender, Pitt, Sampson, Wilson, and Wayne. It
unfortunately happens that the most fertile lands are all
situated in the most unhealthy portion of the State.
The natural fertility of the soil, supplemented by the
312 inE GRlTtSli COLONIST,
use of marl, will give satisfactory returns for caj:)ital in-
vested. Rice is a profitable crop, when cultivated under
favourable circumstances. Brunswick, the chief rice-
producing county, gives a crop of 1,163,852 lbs., for 10,840
acres; or about 781 "SS lbs. pei* acre, wliicli, at B cents
per lb., would give 23"44 dols. per acre ; and, deducting
8 dols. per acie for the cost of cultivating and cleaning,
we have a net profit of 15"()2 dols. per acre, not inclu<l-
ing the value of the straw, which is worth, at least, 1
to 15 dols. per ton. Very much larger crops have been
produced : 1,282*50 lbs. per acre, and a net return of 90
dols. per acre, at Mobile, Alabama, is recorded. North
Carolina rice is the finest in the market. Rice planters
usually retire from the very malarious infiucnce of the rice
lauds while the crops are maturing: the cultivation must
be attended to by negroes. A very successful method of
cultivation is described by a planter in South Carolina
as follows : — A plot of land, little over two-fifths of an
acre, was planted with golden rice. The ground was
thoroughly ploughed, cross-ploughed, and harrowed :
rows eighteen inches apart were then laid out, with a
bull-tongued plough, and seventeen quarts of seed used,
covering and pressing down with a hoe, and with the
feet tracking on the seed. In the middle of May the
crop was hoed once, and the grass removed by hand ;
and then water was turned on and kept flowing through
the rows until July 1st. Water was then turned off,
land hoed, and then water turned on again, and kept
runnino; throu":h the rows until the rice be^^an to turn,
when it was gradually drawn off! The crop was care-
fully thrashed, cleaned, and measured, and the enor-
mous yield of 50*50 bushels (of 45 lbs.) in the hull.
North CAROLINA. 3tj
was obtained, being at the rate of 13()*7o busliels per
acre.
Most of the u])lan(l farms in the State are in a more
or less exhausted condition, and this prevails, t(3 a con-
siderable extent, throiiijliout the lowlands. Cotton and
tobacco are very cxhaustini; crops, and recpiirc the liberal
use of fertilizers ; which has been too much neglected.
There is abundance of marl, a most excellent fertilizer ;
and it has been found that the mixture of about three
per cent, of it with good stable manure, distributed be-
tween the layers, increases its fertility 10 per cent. The
liberal use of marl on depleted land, followed by seeding
with clover, is one of the best and cheapest ways of
restoring its fertility. The average production of cereals
is an exceedingly low one ; thus, that of corn (maize) is
]2*15 bushels per acre ; wheat, only 5 bushels per acre ;
and oats, 7*66 bushels per acre. Cotton, tobacco, rice, and
maize are the only crops which offer a chance of re-
muneration ; at this rate, the three former require very
rich, and naturally good soil, and the latter, the free use
of fertilizers. On the uplands and throughout the
mountainous regions, clovers, especially white, cocksfoot
and other o-rasses will flourish, and the raisin^' and feed-
ing of stock will be a profitable industry. Grapes do
well, and if cultivated to a limited extent, in the vicinity
of new and increasing market facilities, will be profitable,
and if a market can be obtained, wine making will also
pay. The following varieties of grapes do well : — Con-
cord, Catawba, Isabella, and Scuppernongs ; the latter,
only for wine making. Immense crops can be raised, but
there would not be a market for the fresh fruit probably.
The Concord grape, tlie hardiest variety, will bear enor-
314 Tim BA'irisU COLONIST.
iiiuiis crops. Vines planted ciglit feet apart will give six
hundred to the acre, bearing, as a full crop, 20 lbs. per
vine at least, which would be 12,000 lbs. At 2 cents
per lb., allowing half the proceeds for expenses of cultiva-
tion, a handsome profit can be made. These grapes sell
in the shops for six and eight cents a pound.
Mr. Frcelich, a man of great experience in grape
culture, gives the following method of making wine in *'
North Carolina. Great care is used in gatherinf? the
grapes. On a frame 12 feet S(|uare a strong cloth is
spread, having an orifice in the centre, about a foot in
diameter, under which is placed a barrel or box. Tiie
grapes are gently shaken into the cloth, sinking down
through the hole. Persons can in this way gather
1,000 busliels a day. The gra])es are then mashed in a
grape mill, so constructed as not to crush the seeds or
bruise the skins ; thus avoiding the bitter oil of the
former, and the peculiar acid of the latter. They arc
then put into an open cask, with a false bottom, through
wdiich have been bored about three dozen half-incli holes.
In six hours, juice amounting to two gallons a busliel is
obtained. This juice will make an excellent wine without
any (qualifying substances. The mashed grapes are then
pressed in a mill, and will yield two gallons of wino
more per busliel. This is made into wine by gallizing. •
If the juice, either dripped or pressed, shows 80% of
sugar (Oeschle's scale), it will make a normal good wine.
If the acid is from G% to 9% it indicates a pleasant wine, i
but if too great it must be thinned witli water down to
the standard. If Oeschle's scale shows less than 80%,
sugar nmst be added to bring the grapes up to that
figure. After this is regulated, the wine is put into clean
NORTH CAROLINA. 315
casks, loaving a clear space of a tiiiger-leiigtli from tlie
bung-hole. A curved fernienting tube i8 then fastened
air-tight in the Ijung-hole, and its outer end innnersed in
water, permitting the fermented gas to escape, and
preventing the entrance of air. This prevents the con-
version of a large portion of the gi*ape-sugar into acid,
instead of alcohol, and the loss of bloom and flavour; all
of which are the result of bmiL^-hole fermentation. The
wine also ferments more equally and perfectly in large
casks, with stout staves and heads, than in small, thin
barrels. The loss of wine oozing through the latter is
estimated at five per cent, per annum. The fermenting
period lasts three weeks; the tube is then taken away
and the cask tilled and closed air-tight. About Christmas
the clear wine should be raeked into another cask, which
should be filled full and closed air-tight. The loss from
leakage should be continually re[)laeeil, leaving no vacant
space in the cask, in which acid may be generated. The
wine should be racked again about the 1st of April, and
on the 1st of October. It should be racked, annually,
afterwards, about the latter named date. It is ready for
market about two weeks after the second racking, but
will be still better after the third. The sediment from
the first racking should be collected and permitted to
settle again. About half of this will be good wine ; the
remainder may be distilled into brandy, or made into
vinegar. Mr. Fnjelich states that the Scuppernong grape
will yield 400 to 500 gallons per acre, frojn which 1,G00
to 2,000 gallons of juice may be made. From the juice
of one acre he states that 300 gallons of brandy, or 3,000
gallons of vinegar may be made. He insists upon great
care in the selection of well-rooted i)lants, raised from
316 THE BRIT I Sit COLONIST.
thrifty ripe wood, in the establishment of a vineyartl.
The best are one-year-old limbs not over one-fourth of
an inch thick. They can bo raised only by la3'ers, and
will not grow from cuttinf]f,s. I'hey should be laid about
February, and 1)0 well rooted for planting in the follow-
ing autumn. This wine has been mostly sold by the 1,000
gallons in New York for champagne. Of the Scuppcr-
nong variety, Mr. Frd'lich cultivated several varieties,
havinLf the followinij saccharine strenoth, Ooschle's scale :
— White Seedling, 95%; White Scuppernong, 80%; Flower
88% ; Black Seuppcrnong, 82% ; Pamlico, 80% ; Thomas,
90%; Tender Pulp, 80%; .Sugar Grape, 80%. The White
Seedling and White Scuppernong make a delicate straw-
coloured wine, the others a red wine ; and they all ripen
in October.
l^he best soil for a vineyard is sand, underlaid by clay,
and naturally drained. I'he vines are ydanted, two and
two, in holes four feet s(|uare and two feet deep, HUed
three-fourths with top soil, and one-fourth of compost as
rich as possible. Plant in December, covering the roots
four inches deep, later plantings six inches deep. After
the vines have conunenced growing the first season, all
the side sprouts are pinched off, only the main shoot
being allowed to grow. This is done in summer, when
the wood is green. The Scuppernong will not bear
winter pruning, as it will lose too much sap.
Americans have not been a wine-drinking people, but
should the use of the native wine become more general,
the probability of which has been suggested, the industry
of wine-making in North Carolina may be a profitable
one. Apples, pears, and other fruits do well, and the
slopes of the uplands are admirably suited for orchards.
NORTTT CAROrrXA. 317
In a season in wliicli fruit is univcrsnlly almndunt, the
markets are sure to be overstoekiMl, but the finest
varieties of snpcrior (jualiiy always coniniand a niai'ket,
and only these shonM bo cultivate<l. In All(\i,diany
Connty, 1,000 bushels to the acre have been yielded, but
as the price was only 15 cents per bushel, the fruit was
left to the hogs. (A])plos are worth I dolhu' per bushel
at this time.) In Frank Hn Count}'" (on the oak uplands)
an orchard on the brow of a hill with a "northern" ex-
posure failed only three times in 12 years, but one, 150
yards distant — with a southern exposure, bore but thi*ee
or foui* good crops in that time. In Lincoln County, 400
apple trees, planted 50 feet apart, yielded from 500 to
GOO barrels per annum, worth about 1,000 dols. In the
same county three-fpiarters of an acre of grapes pro-
duced 4,500 lbs., giving 300 gallons of wine. In
Henderson, Buncombe, and other counties having the
advantages of railroad transportation and new markets
in the south, some attention is being given to the culti-
vation of the coarser vegetables which bear transportation
well, such as cabbages, etc. Large profits can be made
in this way when a good market can be found, not too far
off. There is an inci'casina: demand for vegetables at the
new manufactuiing centres in the south, and at various
points in which new lines of railroads create business and
increase population. Farmers, as a rule, barely grow
enougb vegetables for their own use, and those of the
coarsest and commonest kinds. A gross return of 200
dols. per acre, and 100 dols. net, is often made on one acre
of cabbages in other States.
The principal shooting to be obtained in this State is
that of quail and wildfowl. Quail are abundant in
3iS THE BRITISH COLONIST.
many places at some little distance from lines of travel,
and ducks are abundant on the estuaries along the coast,
and Currituck Sound is a favourite resort. A number
of small islands dot the shallow waters of the eastern
side of this Sound, which abounds in wild celery and
other grasses. Thousands of mallard, red-headed and
canvas-back ducks, frequent these waters, which are
resorted to by numerous sportsmen from all parts, and
professional hunters also abound, wlio kill and send tlie
ducks to the large cities. Many Northern sportsmen
liave " clubs " formed and shootino:-boxes in this rejxion ;
there is, therefore, a great deal of shooting done, and
ducks are very wary. There are numerous inlets and
swampy places along the coast in which, perhajis, a
better bag could be made than at Currituck. In the
mountain regions a few deer and wild turkej^s may l<e
found by selecting one of the counties remote from
railroads. There are some small trout in many of the
mountain streams, but they are much poached, and often
destroyed by dynamite being thrown into the pools, and
are getting very scarce.
Tlie whole coast is girdled by sand banks, extending
from the northern extremity like a long, narrow penin-
sula, and divided in their course into a number of
islands. They vary in breadth from one hundred yards
to two miles, and in height from a few feet aljove tide
level to twenty-five or thirty feet. Very little cultiva-
tion of the soil is done by the fishermen who live on
these banks, and they are, for the most part, treeless.
Flocks of sheep and cattle, and herds of horses graze on
the coarse and abundant grasses of the salt marshes.
NORTH CAROLINA, 319
Whales used to be numerous alono- this coast, but only a
few visit it now.
Shipwrecks used to be frequent on these l)anks, and
wreckinir was one of the chief industries of the in-
habitants ; but improvements in the way of lighthouses
and signal stations have done away with wrecks, which
seldom occur here now. There are a number of sounds
and inlets, chief of which are Paudico and Albemarle ;
the former about seventy-five miles long, and fifteen to
twenty-live wide; the latter fifty miles long, and five to
fifteen in breadth. These sounds abound in hsh of good
(juality, but the princi[>al fishing stations ai"e in Al))e-
marle Sound. The Roanoke and Chowan Rivers render
its waters fresh, exce[)t at its eastern limit. Hero
migratory fish — herring, sliad, and rock bass — resort in
large immbers at tlie spawning season, and a large fish-
ing business is established ; the seines being from one
mile to one mile and one quarter long, and drawn by
steam-power. Sometimes 200,000 fish are caught at a
haul, packed in ice, and shipped to the Northern cities.
Along the Southern coast mackerel, mullet, sheepshea 1,
blue, and pig-fish, are most esteemed for their flavour.
A good centre-board sloop filled with a small cooking and
heating-stove, provisioned, and with a punt in tow, is an
excellent way to enjoy both shooting and sea-fishing
along the coast. The red-per(!h, a game fisi) weighing
often 1^ lbs., is found in the New River, in Onslow
County, and south of that. The bream is found in all
streams emptying into the Gulf of Mexico, ami as far
north and west as the Green River in Kentucky, and in
some tributaries of the Mississip[)i on the north. It is
found in the Neuse River in North CaioHna, and in the
THE BRTTTSH COLONIST.
St. John's River, Florida. Lord Cornwallis is said to
have aihnired this fish so much that he considered South
Carolina worth capturing for that fish alone. This fish
is very shy, and the hnest of tackle is required for its
capture, wliich it resists desperately to the last. It is a
bottom feeding fish, and is excellent for the table, it is
said. October is the best month for fishing.
THE END.
Cowan d.- Co , Limited, Printers, Perth, i
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Useful Information.
PASS^SfTQ^HS for
Texas, New & Old Mexico,
Arizona, and
CALIFORNIA
SHOULD SEE THAT THEIR TICKETS READ
"Via the Southern Pacific Railway Co."
This being the CHEAPEST,
MOST COMFORTABLE, and
DIRECT ROUTE from
New York, Boston,
Philadelphia, or Baltimore
To THE ABOVE STATES.
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