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Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams Illustrate the method: 1 2 3 Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs d des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reprodult en un seul clich6, 11 est film* d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant ie nombre d'Images nAcessalre. Les diagrammes suivants iliustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^ - ■Mill n If , J A BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. REPORTS OF PROGRESS, TOdF.TllKll WITH A PRELIMINARY AND GENERAL REPORT, ox Tilt ASSINNIBOINE AND SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION; MAUK INliKIt INsrnUCTIOXS Fill ill Tin-: I'KOVIXCIAL Sia'KETAUV, CANADA. By henry YOULE HIND, M.A., ri!i>KKs.'todliy tin- Govonimciit mid peoplt; ol'Caimdii in the Noitli- West territory, nnd |):ii'tiiulai'ly that portion of it tlcscrihcd in tin- luliuwing pagcK, nppi'urs tu lmII I'di- a piceise description of till' nmniier in wliiih tlic txploratiuii was conducted. An ciiuinci'ation ut' the data and ot' the sources of iiitbriuntion embodied in the accompanying maps, tjictions, nnd plans, may also bo acceptable. A> illi a view to anticipate and salisly a very reasonable demand, I give below a brief description of our mode of oliservinj; and recording the natural l'eature.4 of the country tiirongh which we travelled. 1 do nut suppose that the mclhod pursued pus^^essva the slightest novelty, or that it is not susceptible of iuiprovenu'iil, but in view of the wide extent of country it was desirable to describe and delineate duiing one season of live months, it was, after much consideration and the experience of the previous year, thought to be the best we could adoj.'. My instructions, as regards objects to be observed and facts to be recorded, were precise and exact; but with reference to the exploration of particular sections of country, bis Excellency the Governor- CJencral, with a generous and encouraging " confidence in my judgment an any oilier cxploiation in addition to those specially mentioned.* At the outset it was agreed to employ certain dcscriptivo terms in noting the features of llic country, which tlie experience of the jirevious year enabled lis to select, in order to record an accurate and uniform representation of dilferent objects of the same kind, in case separate ])nrtie3 should be formed from lime to timet A little experience in Rupert's Land shows the necessity of this precision. ,\ tract of counlry may be wooded and described in a report, or delineated on a map, as a " wooded country," conveying the idea that timber covers the surface and might alford n su]>ply of that indis- pensable material for building purposes and fuel ; but in llupcrt's I^iid, west of the Low Lake Itcgion, in nine cases out of ten, the "woods" consist of small aspens very rarely exceeding six inches in diameter, or '2b feet in altitude; hence it has been a point always to state the kind and dimensions ol the timber we saw. The same remark applies to the use of the word '' prairie," and to prairie * *' 1 am 10 ailil that hi* ElcvUency, having every confidence in your judgmunt and discretion, 11 \'iilliy, it would lie wholly uiaiiplii'itlilo to niiicli of tlio 4 UKPORTS OF THE ASSINNinoiNF- AND countrv ; pinirlrs, or \Auu\t, nmy lit- Ipvil, rich, mid dry, mishiining liixiiriiiiit K>"n«»eii, niid urt'ording uploiuhd piistiiriifio ; tlu-y may bo iiinrahv mid wet, or iindiiliitiii;j; mid Htoiiy, or nmidy iiiid bari-cii, or init iind lurlileMn. or iirid mid coii!tc(|iicntfy stcrlli'. Siiidi iiidudnito mid ofloii liiiimilicabli' tcriiiii iw "linen prairlf," "rolling iiraiiir," "nlliivial prairie,' not iiiilreiinenlly oiiiployed in diwriliiiij? willioiit lliiiit m lo -pace, the vant iiiipeoiilcil waiten, — ol'tuii lieautiliil ft)i. i! Thk Geolocicai. Mai" AM) .Sections. The geographical outlines are reduced from the Topographical Map of the Exiiedilion. The scale is '24 miles to an inch, or ,- , ',7r~„. The manner in which the approximate limils of formations were obtained, is explained and diseussed in the text. l''or the determination of the Cretaceous fossils, I am indebted to Mr. 1". B. Meek, who ranks .is the highest authority on this eontincnt on fossils from the secondary rocks. I am hajipy to have this opportunity of expressing my thanks to Mr. Meek for bis very valuable co-operation. The excellent paper contained in chapter XIX., iirocecding from such an authority, gives a value to that portion of the lleport and Map which will be appreciated by geologists. * The liiboiirs of this ri'mnrkublo ni.in .nrc only luiw hi'^innin;; to lii> appreciiilcd. Ilii map of the hounijary line. nccor(lin<; t.i ih;- Treiity of Ghent, between Hriti-h .America nnd the United Suites, frnm I.;ilie Siiperiur tcj tlie Lake of the Woods, is an ailniirahle piece of \\iix\i. We rec<)<;ni7.ed every portage ns we came to it Inst year, althoiifrb Thompsoirs .Survey was made in ISL'fj. It is mticli to 1k' hoped tliat Ids nuinerous works, the resulls of thirty yearb' labour in the Norlb-West, will soon be publiithed by the Govenun^nt. + .Si'e ApnendiT. SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORIN(J EXPEDITION. Mr. Itilliii^Hi tliu (liitiii|;iiialii'il |iiiliDiititiil(i^ii4t of tliu Caiiailijiii (icnldgicul Siiivcy, hiiH nut only iletei'iiiiiiL'il llu> Sil'iriiiii nnil Devonian «|ii'ciii)uii<, anil (IciitUhmI Hoinc nesv npccicM, Imt lit' Imi iiUo lent liiH Inviiliiiihlc u-.)iiiitiuu'o in sn|ifi'inli'nclln){ tlio iin'|iiti'iition of tlio (lniwin){H iind woo>l-cnt>t ol tlie Hiii'cinK-na n^iiivd ut tliu uliiitf of tlii« llu|iiii't. Mr. Sniitli, the iirtiiit in cunncxion with tliu Guulo;;icul Survey nf Ciiniuln, Imi uxi ciiU'il tlii' ilruwin^a niitlur the »U|iei'im('nclomi.' of Mr. Ilillin(j[.-i. The I'iiotouiiapuk. Arrnti{{oini'nt« Imvc been nindo to puhlifth a niiinhrr of copius of jiDini' of tho plintojtniplw tukca iliirin)^ tliu (■xplonitlon. It U, Imwovcr, niiuh to Ixi re'.Mrttcl that the nu)<;:itivi'a of tliiHi- tiikin on the iSouris, iju' .\M-.innilH>iiu', mid (Jfu'Appi'llo wore lift at .Selkirk .Settlement, in diroet opposition to my expruiHeil wlHlie". All > lliirl to prociiii' tlioni dio'ln;;; the lant luninicr liiia not been .ineci'titfiili the box in which they were staled to have liieii placed Ii:i8 arrived, but without containing; tho photographic ne^ativen. I mil indebted to I'roliHsor llincks of rniveriitv Collojfo, Toronto, for tho nainen of a itmitll eollcetion of plants illimtriitini; the prevailing prairie llora in nonic fertile dintriclH. l'nr.ii;raph Nn. !."» of the ln>tiiulions ciilU lor a eliort notice; " It is hardly necenaiy to stale that " you will ho In Id responsible tiir ihu Cvindiict, dilixemi', ami (iilelily of the puny under you: cliuiue." To say the l> ast, this i^ a ilillieiilt redponsibHily ; the party, it is known, ronsisk-d be^ideH loyaelf, of Mr. Dickinson, snrvnyor and eiijriiieer, Mr. I'leniiii},', assistant surveyor and draught.-iuuii, and Mr. llinie, photographer. The e.scellent lUports of Mr. Dickinson and ^lr. Fleming, and tho mapnat the close III' this voliiine. speak fur iheiniclvi s : but I shonid i\t\ that ( was iK^lectin^ an iiiipoitant duty if I did not speedy iiiini' pai'lieiilarly my obli^^atioiis to tlie-ii' j^eiilleiiieu. lioth Mr. Dickinson and Mr. rieiiiiiiL; coiidncti d iiiiiiDitiiiil branch exploralioos, ,iud it is with perfect conlidence I refer to their narraiivi'i and reports. Aii.-ociated with them iilmnst hourly since July lis.'i", it is with inueli rej.net on my part lli.it the compleliim of this vnluiin' cIums niir pi i sent cuniii'xioii, Few bnt those who have beiii enj;aged in a lesponsiMe wnrk, in a wild and !I-iaut country, ciii appreciate the worth of eiinscienlioiis, taleiiied, aiiii most iriistwdrlhy friends, and there are o(pially lew wlm can conceive the pain and iinxicly which the nhieiici.' or temporary suppiesslon of ihesi' (puilities in a nompaiiiotl la capable of inlliclin<', when circiniuitanco!) will not permit nvuidnncu or neiiaralion. II. y. II. Toronto, l.-^.")!!. I s ' ( C () N T !• N T .S. iNTIid Cciev No. I.- II. 111. IV.- HI TI..V .... .r is-riii c rin\s — Xu^. 1 uinl v.— VI.. VII.—' RErOUTS OF PllOtlRESS. Liihe Silperiiir Id Ueil River Mr. DukiiiMin',- Uepon on ihe I'ijjeoii l{i\cr Kiiute . . . . . ■l''(irl Giory to Fort Kllice, cm the Little Soaris ...... •Fort Kllice 111 tlie SiiiUli Itnincli ol' the Su-kiilcln\viiii, llii'iice lo I'Virt a In Come mill Kill Kivcr Mr. DickiiiMiii's Keporl en die (^i-'Ap- |ielle Viilley. Kiisl ol' llie Mission — Kort IVlly ill the Haiiiil l{iv< r - lieil liiver Sellleiiients lo tlie .Sail Uet,'ion (III Winnipego.sis J.iike, tlieiice lo llie Siininiil ol' the Killing Mountain, thence to tile .Sriilenient - . . . The C'laiiilry lOasl anil West of llic Red Kivcr, North of ilie 4yili rtu-ullcl It l(i •20 24 ON Tin: (it AI'l'I.I.LK, OK CALI.KWi KIVKR. I Ai.l :i_ll lU. Ill UN Till: i.ir'M'IM'l I.i:, on lAl.r.lMl IIIVKI!, ani> rni; uivniisioN of tiik W'4 i f.iis of riir. sorrit iiiJANiii of the .'.vskitciikwan ninvv ITS VAi.i.F.v, with a vikw to a 111111:1 r STKAMnoAT eojnit VUATInX KHOM KHIT OAIIIIV, lii:0 HlVKll, Til NKAIi Till. i-iior 01 Tin; ikkkv mointaix.s - liohl ill llrilisli ('(iliiiiiiiia will iinliice eiiiiirra- lion, unil creiile coiiiiiiercial aclivily in (lint Colony — 'I'he Valley ol' (he SaskiilclieHnii will heroine 1111 eiiiijrranl laiiil-roiile to Itriti,~h Coliiniliiu— Aineriuiiiis roHowinir, unil pn- piiriiiir lo I'ollow ihiil route — I'nlilic allenlion iliiTcti il lo I, like Wiiinipei; ami the North lirancli ol' Ihe .Siiskatchewaii, lis a Steniii- lioiil Route — One result of the (.'aninliiiii Kxploriii;! Kxpcililioii to the Soiilli lirancli of the .Siiskiilchewiin — New iiiiinleriTipieil Steiiiiiljoat Koule to the Foot of the Rocky Mouiilaiii.s, in a diTection nearly due wesl 10 the How River l'a.ss — Pnilialile coni- municntion, without impediment iiinl only one lireak, from any iiavignhle ])iirt of lieil River lo the Rocky Mountains— yirAppelle, or Calling River Valley — Uescription oi: — Inosciilates with Ihe South Branch and the As.sinniboinc— Work rt'nuircd lo be accom- .'il A 3 6 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND plialicil to scHtl tho wnlcrs of tlio .South Brnncli of tlie fSiiHkntelifWRii down tlio Qu'Ai)i)ollp Vnlley, past Fort Gnrry — Qii' Appellc Liikt'd — CliBi-nctcr of— Depth — Abound in Fisli — How the flooding of the A»sinnil)oine iind Ki'd Kiver in to lie nvoided duritig spring frctihcts — Churiictcr of tlie Country druiucd by the Soutli llriiuch — Climate of the So\ith Uruneh — Great iidvun- tnge to be derived from tlie proiMJsed route — Uistftiice shortened 400miIeH — Uoute unin- terrupted from Ued Kiver to the foot of the Rocky Alountiiins — Season of Navigation extended eiglit to ten weeks — Fine Farming Country opened uj) — Best I'oss in the Koeky Mountaina approiiclicd — Dangerous and Cir- cuitous Niivigal ion of LakeWinni])eg avoided Grand Rapids surmounted — Coal Falls overcome — Postal Connnunieation along the projjosed route — Centies of I'opulation — The South Uraneh will become the eniigninl route — ImiKirtanee of the Comnuinicalion from Lake Superioi', fj« South Branch, to the Paeilic. CHAPTER II. I'ARALLSL ON TIIF. tOHT ELLICE — I'llOM TUB QU'APPKI.I-K PRET.IMINAKY REPORT. Area traversed ...--- Surface Features ....-- Lakes aiul Rivers ....-- Volume of Water in lh(> Asainnilione - Wooded and Prairie Land ... - Areas Fit for Settlement .... Valley of the Assiiiniboine ... Valley of the Saskatchewan ... East of the Riding and Duck Mountains Geological Features ..... Climate - Extracts from the .lournal at Furl ii la Come, Saskatchewan River. Lat. oil" ;!0'; Long. 104" 30' W. " ", " ' Table showing the Dimensions of Valleys and Rivers ....--- 4a 4.) GENERAL REPORT. fllAPTKH L )HT (i.MfiiY Ti) Tin; 5ioi in of Tin; i.itti.i; .sill uis iiivKii — Tiir. .M(h:th of iin: I.ITTl.K SOUIIIS TO TIIK noFNli.VKV I.lNi; 4(i Till' Slarl — Supplies — Prairie l{iil;.'c.< — The Big Ridge — i'ig((in Traps — Stimy Monii- taiii — liiid:^ — Saline lOtlloiisciMice — Chiirac- tci- of the Uig Kidgi — The A.-.-iniiiboine — Grasshoppers — Ojiliuay Encampiniut — Archdeiicon Ci'ihnine — Prairie Portage — Cliff Swiilbnv— Thnniler Sliiriii< — Ojibways — The Piad Wuciils — A^-imiiboiiie i'"cili-I — Hivei- — Ralibil- — Sandy Hills of ibe A^»iii- nili — Lnliliide — Diinensions of N'alley — Variation of Compass — Sand Dunes — Aspcci of C'onulry — Hail Slorm — Ibilsnni Sprnci — Pine Creek — The Little Siiuriy — (irassliop- pers — Ki-^li — Siiuix — Cretiiciiius liocks — Bine Hill>— Pembina Ifiver — liackfat Lakes — Vast I'rairi"' — Prairie Fin s — Horizontal Rocks — Inoci'iamus — Guelder Rose — Lig- nite — Ancient Lake Dcaches — Sand Dunes —Oak Laki'— Souris Sanil Hills— Xighl- hawk — Bog Iron Ore — Floods in 1H,)2 — Grasshrnipers, Innnile Multitude of — Ap- pearance of the Sky, of Prairie — Little Souris Valley — Tracks — Turtle .Mountain — Sioux — Character of Prairii' — Souris Lakes — Boulders — Mandan Villagi' — Cha- racter of the Souris south of tlii' ■.'9th parallel. KROM THE FonTY-NlNTII LITTLE SOL'RIS TO FOIIT ELLICE TO UMSION -.-... 52 ludian Signs — Smell of Fire — Tlie Sioux — Precautions — "Something" — ".Souris Lakes"— Red Deer's Head Rivtr—The Great Prairie, Churiicter of — Mirage — Birds — Grasshojipers — I'ipestone Creek — Country changed — Forest disappeaicd — Cretaceous Rocks — Buffalo Bull — Fort Ellice — McKay — Crces — Hunters — Pro- vision Trading Po.as — Pemican — Dried jNIeat — Thunder .S'.onns — Mammoth Bones — Ojibwiiy Hu;iicr — Hidf-breeds — En Route for the tisni — "J'raying Father" and "I'riiying Man" — Rnn'i — Indian wishes. CHAPTER III. FROM THE gr'Al'l'KLLK MISSION TO TIIK SOITII IIRANCII OF TIIK SASKATCIIKWAr Depth of Fishing Lukes — Cress-section." — Conferva" — Lower Lakes G<" feet deep — Birds — Vegetation — Wa'er-mark — Third and Fourth Fishie^ Lakes — l'i>h — Sound- ings in Fourth Lake — Fishing Lake- pro- bably laiee united — (Jee.se — Pelicans — ^ F'ourth Lake — Walcr-inark — Aspect of Valley 'a IH.VJ — (ju'Appelle River — Prairie — l)«'|)th of Valley — White Cranes — Section ot Alluvial Flats — Tcniperatuie — Cliaraeter of I'lairie — Bird.- — Shrilbs — .\ntelope — Hare — Koses — (iraiiil Forks — Plain (icis — Teinpiratnre of River — Ice .Murk Itull'alo Trai'k- — Cliaraeter of Stream — Willow Bushes— Fetid Air— Drift I'lay— Kriiities — Freenieii's Ilon.ses — I'lalrii — Want of Tiinlier — Tlinnder Storms — Tom li- wiiod Hills — Indians — Tolls — Diplonii:i';. — • Indian Resolve — The (irand Forks — Lmig Lake — Souris Folks — Souris of (^u'Appille and Assinnibidne — Dinn nsioiis of Valley — The (iraiid Coteaii — I'niirie Fires — Iinliiin Signs — A I'rairie en Fire — linlValo — C'cm- se(pience of Prairie Fires — Reelamatien o!' Sterile .\rea: — Iinlian Telegraph — Seareily of Wood — Ancient Indian Eiicani|iineni — Till' Plain Cices — Cree Tents — I*ro\ l-iinis — Itnllalo I'ouikI Hill Lake— Indian— Short-stick — Aspect of Country — Cotean de Mis-onri — l.a.-t Mountain — Treeless Plain — The Grand Coteau — Character ol — BuHido — Birds — Plain Crei's, Camp(d' — T!:e (^n'AppeUe Vallev — Marrow — Precinilions —The Sandy Hill's— decs— B.ds de Vnelie — Salt Lake — Dimensions of Valli'V — Erratics — Iinlian Hospitalitv — Evi'-brow Hill— Source of tiu'Appelfe— lt"ullalo— Character of Qu'.Vppelle Valley — Water- marks — Sandy Hills — Distribution nf Boulders — Section — Rock ExiKisnie — Sbortstick — Sand Dunes — South Itrancli — The yu'Appclle Valley — Creo Camp — Height of IiBud — Section of Volley — Levels .'i'*^ SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. rf^ ^ ^i — Buffalo I'ound — Cninp Moving — "Dead Men "—Old Uuffftio PoHiid— Ilorribk- Spoc- tnclo — New Pound — Bringing in Buffiilo^ Slaughter in Pound — Sliortstick — "Tulk " — Objections to Ilnlf-breeds — To the Iluditnn Bay Company — Shorts! icli'H WuntH — Hock Exposure — BoulderH in Valley — Character of the South Branch — Loading Dimensions of the (^u'Appelle or Calling Kiver Valley, and of the Lakes which occupy it, CHAPTER IV. KROU TIIK Qu'aI'I'EH.E MISSION TO KOUT ELLICK, IIOWJJ TUK QC'Ari'EI.I-E IlIVKIl - - 67 The Second Fishing Lake — Depth of — Indian Map — Origin of Name Qu'Appelle. or "Who Calls River " — The First Lake, or Pakitawi- win — Great depth of First Lake — Fisli — Confervie — Depth of Valley — Width of Hi ver — High Water-mark — Vallev Flooded — Aflliients— Depth of Valley— Crooked Luke, or Ka-wa-wa-ki-ka-niac — Dimensions of— Eflects of Fires — Trees in Valley — Boulders — C'liarncter of the Country — Indian Surprise — Indians — Summer Berry Creek — Dinicn- siohs (if Valley — Valley and Prairie Si'eno — Camp Scene — Cliai'acler nereli(nis — Treeless Blinks and Prairie — Low Cimntiy — Drift Wood — Ripple Marks — Dimensions of tlie South Branch — Tlie Moose Wo(i(N — Water and Ice Marks — Forest Tlmlur — Character of River — Treeless Prairie — Boulders — Soundings— Biillalo — Diincnslons of River — Aliseiice of Animal Life — "The Woods" |{ale of Current — BouMers, Arrangement of — Artificial Piivenieiit — Tiers of Boulders Tiiiipiratiire — Balsiim Spruce — Former Aspen Forest — (iiHid Country — Water- marks — Souniliiigs— Aliseiiee of Animal Life— Siratilied Mud— Fall of River— Cliaraeter of River — Coloiir and Tempera- tiiie of North and Soiiili Itraiieli— The North Itraiicli — Aliseiieeof Iiidiiiiis — (iiizzly Bear — Ciirrent of North Jlraiieli— Coal Falls Diiiieiisions of Norlli Bianeli— Boiildei ■; — Trees — The (iiiind Forks — The .Main S.is- katelie\vaii.v-l''ort ii la Corne — Culiie Feet of W:iler in North and Siailh Braiiili iiiid .Main Saskalchewan. CHAPTEU VI. riloM Kolir A I. A ((iltNK TO FOHT KI.I.K K, AXU KOUT KM ICi: TO TIIK liKI) lilVKIl BKTTI.K- MKXTS Suiidy Strips on the Siiskalcliewaii — Daiiksinn I'iiie — Fine Country — Long Creek — Old A 4 Forest — Firos, Extent of — Extension of the Prairies— Former Extent of Wooded Country — Efllect of Fires — Long Creek — Hay Ground — Moles — Humidity of Climato — Source of Long Creek — The Birch Hills — Flowers — Aspect of Country — Carrot River — The Lumpy Hill of the Woods — Lakes — The Wooded Country — Former Ex- tent of — Limits of Good Land — RaspbeiTics — Mosquitoes — The Height of Lainl — Con- tinuation of the Eyebrow Hill Range — Valley inosculating with South and North Branch of the Saskatchewan — Grasshoppers Character of tlie Country — Birds — Destruc- tion of Forests — The Big Hill — Boulders — Limit of Wooded Country — Belts of Wood — Great Prairie— Character of the Country — Salt Lakes — The Toiiehv.ocd Hills — Beautiful Country — Excellent Soil — The Quill Lakes — Flowers — White Cranes — The Heart Hill— The Last Mountain— riio Little Touchwood Hills — Lakes nume- rous — Toiichwo(Hl Hill Fort — Ka-ou-tn-at- lin-ak — Tcaichwood Hill Range — Long Lake — Devil's Lake — Garden at the Fort — — White Fish in Long Lake — Burnt Forest — (irasshoppers — Winter Forage for Horses — White Fish — Biitliilo — Medicine Man — Climate of Touchwood Hills — Humidity of Trail to Fort Ellice — Marshes — Little T(Michwood Hills — Character of Country Changes — Depressions — Pheasant Mountain — Character oi'tlie Conn try — Heavy Dews — Hoar Frost — Cut-arm Creek — Willow Prairie — Little Cut-arm Creek — Rolling I'rairie — Attractive Country — Spy Hill — Boulders — Aspen Groves increasing — Sand Hills — The Assinnilioine — Dimeiisimis of Valh'y near Fort Ellice — The Riding Mountain — Rapid Uiver — Character of the Country — Well adapted for Settlement — Timlier of the Riding Mountain — Birds— Cretaceiais Shales — I'einliiiia Mountain — While Jliid River — Character of the Country — Forest Timlier— Fish — Luxuriant Vcgelalion — Luke Maiiitoliah — Fishing^ Station — Red River — Assiiiiiilioine Prairies — Arrive at the Settlements, CHAPTER VII. FItOM FOnr A I.A CillINK TO TIIK (illAXI) llAriO OF TIIK SASKATl IIEWAX. — KUOM TIIK (MIANI) UAI'II> TO TIIK HKI1 niVKK SKTTI.KMKNTS ril'l TIIK WKST COAST OF LAKE WINXII'Ell liistriieticins — Ei|uipmeiit — Departure from Fort ii la Corne — (Jiiieral direction, current, and liieailth of the Saskatchewan — Charac- ter of its Valley— Country through which the River Hows well adapted for Setlleiiicnt — Sickness and Di>eiiiiitoils — Reiicli I'emican Portage and Cunilierliiiid lloiise — Deserip- lioii of Cumlurliiiid — The Saskatchewan and surrnnniliiig Counlry lietweeii Ciiiiilieiland and the Pas — The Pas— Christ CInircli — Gradual depression of tlie Conn liy liurderiiig the River— Allin i;il Flats— Marslie>_l)ilta — Muddy l.;ike — Uoek Kxpiisuie — Marshes iiiid .Mild Flats— C(ili;r Lake : ils Siliialiiii and Diniensioiis — Siirrouiidiiig Counlry — I'lie Saskiileliewaii lietweeii Cedar Lake and Luke Winnipeg — Cross l,;ike Rapiil : ils Di- mensions — Enter Cross Lake — Aleel a Brig- ade of liouls — Cross Lake ; ils Diiiieiisioiis and .Mtitudc— Siwroimdiiig Coiiniiy — The Sa>kaleliewaii Ea-^t of (loss Lake — Rapid^: their Dimensions — Snauilh Reach — Ih'ift I'lay liiiiiks — The (5raiid Rapid : Portage ; running the Rapid ; ils Dimensions ; Clia- 81 'f REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND •' ractcrof its ExcnvntedBed; Miignificciioc of tlio upiH'r Portion of tlic Ciitaract j mode of ascending it j HcmnrliH in relation to piir- mounting tliis Biirrier and nialiiiig the Sns- katclic«yiii iiviiiliible for Steiim Nnvigntion— Indian eneaniinient — Lake Wininpeg — Cnpe Kitcliinaslii — ;~'orinH — Detained on an Island — Windliound on Muiidand — Tenii>est — Ue- pidsed hy the Wind — Clianicter of the Coast; the Sand Beaches and iSwainps — War Path River — Verifying Kate of Canoe — Tracking — Limestone Point — Encountering n Head Wind and Storm — Lightening Canoe — Starv- ing Indians — The Little Saskatchewan — Hecapitnhilion — The prominent Kealnres of the Coiisl — Konnntion of ('M|ie KlU'hinashi —Limestone Ex]iosnres — Trilintnry Streams — (leneriil Character of the Country — Indian Chart — Inaccuracy of the Majts of the Lake — Depart from the Little Saskaldicn-an — Windliound again for tliree Days — Provi-iions exhansted — Contrary Winds — Driven hack and stopped — The Cat Mend — Windlioinid again liy n llnrrlcane— Harrier of Houlders — ICngle — Stopjied tiy foul Winds again at the Wicked Point — Pike Head nnil Hivcr— Opportune Supjily of Fish — Wlih' Traverse to Grindstone I'oint — (irassy Xarnnvs — Sandy Bar — Arrive at the Selllenienls — Conclusion. CHAPTER vnr. RKI) niVEli SKTTLKMKXT T(i Till: .H.jLTIl (IF TIIK LITTLi: SASKATCHEWAN, IN A ITiEHiUTKU's UOAT !)4 Mouth of Red River — Aurora — Weather Signs — Chanui 1 at Moutli of Red River — Storm — Ciiaraeler ot' the South Coast of Lake Winnipeir — New Liind — West Coast — Conferva — The Willow IsImimIs— Clay (.'lilf- — Good Land — IJrui.keu River — Aurora — Rock Ex]i(isiH-e — Deer Island — Section on — Erpilvalent of the Chazy formation— pishing Ground — Miskena — (iriudstone Point — Rev. Mr. Br(Miking — Rocks of (iriudstone Point — The Little Grindstone Point — East Const of Lake Winnipeg — Punk Island — Yellow Oelirc — Coii'^1 near Dog's ll<'ail — Liiuestoiie Cave I'oint — Eissurcd Rocks — Jack Pish River— Fisher Bay — The Cat Heail — Llllle SMskalelKwiiii liay — East Coast of Lake Winnipeg — Dinuusions of Lake Winnipeg. CHAPTER IX. TIIK M(U:TI1 ok TIIK I.ITTLK TIIK SALT Sl'llINliS I.AKK ...---- The Litths Saskatchewan — Height of Hank — Country in rear — Trmkiiig — Swamps — Banks of River — Ojiliway Camp— Wliile- lish — Chai ach-r of Country — Canoe Fleet — jSpruee — Boulders — Marsh — St. JIarlin's Lake — " Money" — I'onnded Fish — Wavys — Fine Land — The Narrows — Boulder Barriers — Sugar Island — Imlians — (iueis- soid Islands — St. Martin Rocks — Ih'ach Barriers — Depth of St. Martin Luke — Thunder Island — Thuniler Storm — Part- ridge Crop River — Rushes — Old Mission — Low Country — Indian F'armer — Wide Spread Marsh — Kairford — The Character of the Country — The Mission — Evening Ser- vice — Rev. Mr. Slagg — The F'arni — Hud- son's Bay Ccanpauy's Pcn Hiver — Eagles — Character of Wiiter-lien River — Pelicans — Indians — Wood and Prairio Indians — Barter- -Winni- pcgo-sis Lake — Ermine Point — El as — Sail Spring — Snake Inlands — Duck Mc itain — Snake Island Fossils — Arrive li Salt Springs, CHAPTER X. THE SALT Sl'KlX(iS, ON WIXXlPKIiO-SI.S LAKK, TO THE SIMJIIT OK THE ItlDlNd MOLNTAIN — THE SU.MMIT OK THE lilDINIi MOUNTAIN TO MANITOBAII HOUSE . . . ■ 104 Character of the Country — The Duck Moun- tain — The Si'lt Sjirings — The Wells — The Manufacture of Salt — Salt Springs ond Lagoons — Moss River — Rapid.s — Character of River — Valley or Dauphin River — The Riding Mountain — Lake Ridge — Hay Ground — Dauphin Lake — I'ike — Snow Birds — Journey to the Summit of the Riding Monnlaiii — Marshes — Ridges — Character of the Country — Whiskey Jack — (Quaking Bog — Pilehing Track — Raliliils — F'oot of Jloim- laiu — Crelaeeous Rocks — Plateau.\ — Coni- cal Hills — White Spruce — Brown-noseil Bear — Summit of the Riding Mountain — Characterof the Country — Former character of the Hiding Jlouiilain — Denudation — Talilc Land — Snow Slorni — Source of the Rapid Rivei' — Indian Superstition — Descent of Riding Mountain — Charaeier of the Mouniaiii — Fish — Sickness — Cupping Ta- wa-pil — Great Bones — G ra.sshoppers — Journey frtan Danjihin Lake to Lake Mani- toliah — Cliaraclei' of the Country — Bogs Aspen Uirlges— Hidge Pilehing Track — Ehb anil Flow Lake — Indian Tent — Interior of — Supper — Sleeji — Hulliilo Runner — Mani- toliah House. CIIAPTEU XL MANITOltAIl HOUSE To MAMTdl'.AII ISLAXIl — MAXlTonAll ISLAND To OAK I'lllNT — OAK I'oIXT TO TIIK SETTLK.'IIENT.S ON UED IlIVLl! 1()<( Mr. and Mrs. JIaekenzie — Manitoliah IIou.se — Messi iiger — Missionary privalions — Want of supplies — Comuiunicalion wiih St. Paul — Fnliue .Supjilies more constant — Snow Slorni — Indian Summer — Siuiw Ilirds Jlaniloliali Mouse — Roek — .lolin Canipliell — Whilelish — linporlauci' of — A'^pect of ('ounliy — The Narrows — Manitoliah Island — Dimensions of — Oak — Roek formation — I'ossil Indian Supeisiillons — Fairies — .Signals — Arrival of Hoat at .Manitoliah Island -Coast of Lake Maniloliah — Old iMission Station — Unfitness of this Pari of the Coast of the Lake for .Sellleinint — Indian Liheralily — Monkman's I'oint — Cause of the Fiirmatiou of Marshes — 11. B. Com- pany's Breeding Eslalilishmeiil — Oak I'oinI — Dimensions of Lake Maniloliah — Prairie liordering the Lake — Shoal Lake — Character of the Country — Big Ridge — Litlli' Ridge — Arrive al tlu' Setth'meiils — Talile showing (he leading dimensions and approximate Height aliove the sea of Ihe Lakes in the (ireat Basin of Lake Winnipeg — Table showing the areas and elevalion above Ihe sea of Ihe (ileal Canadian Lakes. CIIAPTEU XII. IXIIIAN WEALTH — THE IIIKIALO — THE HOUSE AXIi THE liOli - - - - - 115 The Bison or Buffalo— Its Value— Two kinds of Burtiilo reported to exist by Half-breeds ' *- SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. ;. —The Fliiiii Bnffaln mid the Wood Buftiilo — Characters of — Former rniige of the Butfalo — tixisted on the Athiiitii' Coast — Throughout the Unit ' StatcH Territory, not inchidhig all »h' ■ . Kiighmd States Modern range (>'■ Red Hiver hands — The Saskniehev. ..ands — Whitering quarters of the J'oiiii-'vesteru hands of HuflTalo — Summer ranges — Systemalie Mi- gration of — ItuHiilo Hunt — Genius of Ked Kiver IIalf-l)reed Hunt— Blind. Butfalo— Crossing of Buffalo with Donu'slieated Cattle — Charai'ter of Mixed Breeds — The Horse — Training of Horses — Uoeility of — lllustraticnis — Allaehinent of Indians to their Horses — Hoppiiigs — Smokes — The Uog — Its uses — Tlie Midnight Howl — Dog Feasts — Dogs at the H.B. Posts — Voracity of^ — Cross with the Wolf — Saerilieo of Dogs, CHAPTKH XIII. INDIAN ANTKillTll'.S SlIPKIiSTmoXS AND 1 irsToMs — itKi.ATiiixsmi' AM> KlNma;!) XI Mlll;US AND IHSrllllllTKIX Harity of liulian Antiipiities in the Valley of tlu' Saskateliewan — Mandan Houses — Tnnnili on Hainy Kiver — Pottery — Mr. SeliooleratVs views — liit*'i'niarriiige of Trilies — Country of ihi' Ojlhway — Scalp D.inci's — Wood anil Prairie Indians — lii'llnn pniiishniint — Tn'ulment of Pri- soners — Conjurors — ('(nijnror's Song — In- enntiilion-* — 'I'lie lin|i|iy HiimiIiil.' (iroiiiidi — Intluiiii'i' of the CoujurcMs — Tjic Hailger — llaiMitcil Holes anil Caves — Saeriliees and (tlli'riugs — Trealnu'iil of Wives — l)e- eoraliiins — Ties of Kindred ami liehilion- ship ; Illiislratii>iis — Hi'lationsliip among till' li'i)i|Uiiis — Census of Indians^Xumhi'r lit' liiilians ti'i'i|nentiug H.B. Cnmpanv's Po-ls — .Indians of the Saskateliewan Valley — Klaekfiet Trilies — As-^lnnlboine — Crees — Sioux or Dakotidis — Trihes of — Con- Jurors — Wicks — I.anguiigr — Cunnnon and .Sacred — Cliaiactcr of Language — Ithick- fcet Imlians — Census of — Trihis of — Ciiniitry iiihahilcil liy Ithiekfct. ( HAPTKR XIV. \ IIIK, liUllltN iir IIIK. VAI.I.F.V of TIIK t>>l 'AI'fl'.l.t.F, AXK UN TltK lUSl'llSI ril)\ or siiMf: iir riii; luiiir ux mi, siu rii 111! VXni UK Tlir. SASKA Tl IIKWAX - Di |iics>liiii ipf the Coiinliy iu the liegion of the Mnii-e Wiioils — Kiii.iiili of llic (jn'.Vp- pi'llc Valley— St reams enter the (jii'.Vppelle Valley at right angles^Breadth of the \ alley ihrougliout — Ulilges with Itoulders — Origin of — Depth of the Kisliing Lakes — .Vncicnt Lake — Krosiun of Main Sa>kal- I'hcwaii — I'eculiarity in the Lakes of the tiu'.Vppelle — llaek-Fal Creek — Possllile Origin of (^u'Appille N'alley— I'liriucr lied of a Uiver, hefure the last -uliiiicrgence of n Continent — .Vncicnt Kiver Valleys— Dr. Hilchcock's r.nuineraliiin of — llliislratioiis — The Si. Lawrenci — -The Ottawa — liould- els in the Drill of the Saskatchewan — lioulil- ers in the Ithie Clay of Toronto — pureed Arrangement of — Mode in which .Surfaces in the IlliieClay were exposed — Position of the nine Clay — Lower and I'pper Ithie Clay — Disposiliiiu nf the Itoiilders and pragiiicnts of Shale — Illuslratioiisof — Drift ill Can.iila — Section of Drift — Discussion uf the Mode iu which the Boulduru and Shale acquired a forced nrrangcment — Thrown down ii .Siiha(|ueoiis Bank — t)l)- Jeclions to— Sortiug of Muteriiils — Agency of lee. CHAPTKK XV. CI.IMATK OK A I'O iTIuN eiK lilTKUT's r.AXl> Climate of tin Lanieiitides and the Prairies — Frozen Lakes — .Mt Land in Missouri — Seasons nil the .Main SiisUatcliewan — .\l I'ort a la Cunie — .\i Cumiicrlauil Mouse — At Carlton House — \t Ked Kiver— Cha- racter of the (ireat Plains in the Ciiilcd States — .Major Kmoiy's Stateniciit — Au- rora.s — Oct. and — Oct'. 27th — Colonel Le- froy's Oliscrvalion,— -Vlliluile ol' Auroras — CmineNinn w iili the Atmosphere — Sound • — Sir .Iiilm Kicliai'il.'-oirs (iliM'rvalions — The Twiliglit How — Talile showing the nnmlicr of days on which rain fell, with the cliaiacter ol' thunder storms during the Summer of 18J8, in the \'alley of the Assiniiiliiiine and Saskatchewan — Tahle showing the clevaliiin anil hreadlh of the Plateau on which the Kocky Jlonntain ranges rest, and the lieii;lil aliove thcOi'i 'in 111' the lowest Pas-es, from the ;i2ijil parallel 111 tlicolst paiallel, Norili Laliliiilc--Coin- parison nf the meiiiiiuliijry uf Ked Kiver Selllemeiil willi Tdrnnlii, Canada West, wilh rel'i'ieiice to Mean Teliiperaliii e, depth of Kain and Snow, I'roni ciiiTespondiug Oh- scrMitions at lioth Stations, fiiun .Iiine, Is.')."), to May. IS.Vi, inclusive — Low Tcni- peralurcs at Isle .le-iis, Canada Kast — Kxtracls from a .lonrnal at Port :i la Corne, on the .Main Saskateliewan, Lat. iili^ 30', 1 g. 104' ;!0. PJS 133 I) ITINEKAllY. (I.) From Fort (iarry south-westward to the 4!lth parallel, rii'i the .Vssinnilioine and the Lillle Sonii< - - - It!) (,11.) From Keil Deer's Head Kiver— a lew miles Minlh of the inler.si'ction of the lioiiiulaiy line and the Little .Sonris — noi'thwaril to Fori Kllice ... 1 jl (HI.)Friiiii Fort Kllice wistward lo the t^ii'Appellc .Mission .... 1,52 (IV.) From the (Jn'Appelle .Mission wist- ward 141 the clliow ol the Soiitli Iliancli of the Saskalclicwan rit'i the (^ifAji- [iclle Kivcr and Valliy ... 103 10 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND (V.) From the Qii'ApiM'llo Mitisioii fiistwnnl to Fort blliee via tlie (ia'Appi'llu lUvir 155 (VI.) Fniiii Fort Kllicc iioilli-wrslwmil, to Foil IVIIv anil Swiiii HiviT, via tlif wi'st !y (XV.) From Selkirk SetlliMueiil to the Salt Sprin^fs nn Wiiniipef ihi' Itidiii;; .Mountain, rtV/ the wi'-l - and Surveys of this K.xpedillon in Kuperl's Lund, or the North-we>l Teirilorv, Intweeii the I'liiled Sl.ile- Froniier ( Ulth parallel) and hiti- liide 1." Nmlli ; and hetween loii;.'itnde iM)^ and 107 \\'i-{ KVOXIAX SKIIIKS - . . [H'J Dislribntion of Fonnalions — The Laureiitian Series — The Lauren I iiles — The Lauren I iaii Sy>lein de.-eiilied — Kciiniaiiie .Materials in Disli'ilmlion of Ihe Lauicnliaii Series in llie Basin of Lake Winnipeg— The .Silurian , Series — The (hazy Formalioii — Deer Island — Grindstone I'oini — The Poisdam Sand- stone — Probable Fossils in the Laureiillan Series — Polsdain .Samlslone lUi the Soiiili Shore of Lake Sujierior — The Hird's Fve Liineslone — The Hudson Uiver (iroup — The Devonian Series — Salt Springs — List of Salt Springs where Sail is galhered and inaliufaitnieil — .Mode nl' extracting Salt by .solar e\aporalioii — Furniatluns superior to the Devonian — Weslern Limit of the Devo- niaii Series — The Uiiling Mnnnlain — Ab- >enee of Drifl proofs — Liiiill nf area in which lornialions between the Devonian and Cre- taceous may be foiiiid — Probable aliMMice of the Carbmiiferous .Series — The Nebraska Scries — Kansas Bock — Permian Series — tliirassie or TriiL-sic .Series probable in Kansas — Cretaceous Uocks repose on Ju- rassic in Nebraska — Probability of the occurrence of the Coal Measures in Ihe Uusiii of Lake Winnipeg. CHAPTER XVIII. TIIK lUKTAlKOfS SKItlKS. TIIK TKRTIAIIV SKIlltS \Hi) (ireat extent of the Crelucious Series in Uu- jM'rl's Land — Cretaceous Scries in thel'iiiled Stall's — Vertical Section in Nebraska Terri- tory — Formation No. I — Formalion No. a. — Probable distribution on the North Branch of the Saskatchewan — Formation No. 11 — Fonnation No. 1— Distribution on Little Sonris — The -\ssinnihoiiie — The Qu'Appelle — Formation No. ." — Dislribntion on the (Qu'Appelle — The South Branch of the Sas- katchewan — The Tertiary Series — Suiiil Dunes probably derived from Tertiary Uocks — Importance of— ^Lignite — Distribution in Americn — Distribmion and importance of in Euroiii; — Vcrtk'iil .Sggtiou vf the Ovologicul SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. U FormntionH of Nebraska Territory na fiir «H determined with tlieir extension into Ru- pert's Lnnd, CHAPTER XIX. ItEMARK!) ON THK C'llETACKOtiS F09SII." t:'- I.KrTKD nv IMIOl'KSSdIl IIKNHV Y. HIND, ON TIIK A.HSINNIllOIXE AND SASK,VT('IIF.WAN EXPi.oniNO ETKinnoN, WITH iiKsrnii'- TIONS OK SOMF. NEW srKClF.S.; IIV F. H. .MKKK 195 Keniiirlxs — Ll-<»(ir Fossils ciillectiMl — I'liiiils — MdIIuscii — Anoiiiia Kli'iiiiiij^i — IiioccniniuM Ciiiiiiilcnsis — Aviciilii lin^'iuel'in'niis — Avi- c'lilnXclinisciiim — Ivcilallliicli — lA'iliiKvansi — Uoslcllniiii Aniciicanii — Xaticn ohliqiiatn — A\('lluna (Minciniia — Aninioiiiles [)ln<'t>nla — AniJiionilcs, sp. iindt. — Anniionitcs Itnrii- nloni — Annnoniles Rillin^si — Scapiiiti's nixldsiis — !)('a|>lill('s C'oniadi — Naulilus D( kayi. ClIAPTKH XX. REMAKKS OX THE SlLVniAN ANIl IlKVONIAN FOSSILS ( oi.i.Fi T.;ii nv riiiUKsHUi iiF.xnv v. hind ON Tin. AssrxNrnipxi: and saskati iff.wan KXI'l.olMNi; FXI'K.niTKlN. IIY F. HHMXIis, F.(;.s. 1<)9 CllAl'Xi;i{ XXI. ADDITIONAL ItFMAliKS ( iN TIIF. IIiiKdX inVEl! mil TF, Willi AX I>T1MAI'F lir Till. idST OF Ol'r.XIXd IT FOl! ( ilMMKItllAL TliAFFII'. MV ,1. A. UK KIXSOX, C.K. ... 201 TAULi; OF I'm; foutaofs, dli iiaikifs. hai'ius, I.AKFS, I.AKK STIIAITS, AXll XAVlUAlll.F I IIAXXEI.S OX TIIK IMCFOX IMVFll l!ol TF (TIIK OLD XiiKTII-WKST COMI'ANV's liolTF) FIlllM I.AKF SI rFlilon TO nAIXV I.AKK, SIIOWIXO TIIFIIt I.KXCITIIS AXl) IHSTANCF FROM I.AKK SITKIMOI! .... L'02 ArPKNDTX. 1. METHODS TO UK I'l ILSIKH IN HKTEIIMININO TIIK DATA Fcili TIIK IIASIS OK ITIF .MAI'S AXD iKATlON IV. A LIST OF THE WATEn-COI.Oin DRAWINfiS, AND I'lIOTOOBAriLS ArCOMPANYINK THIS IIEI'OHT 207 liKi'onis (IK Tills Kxri.i il. INDIAN SlMMKl! Ml. - 201 - •-'(),■) TAIU.ES OF .MACXFTIl VAIJIMIONS. Xc). 1. iMnj;iiflii' A'ai'iatiiiiis ... \H)', II. .\lii;.'n('lii' Vm'ialiiuis al 'ruriiiiln, I'riiin IS 10 1,1 iM.m - - . . 20(i Ml. .Mnfiiiclir Varialiiiiis al Toroiilo, I'ldiii IH41 lo IHV.) .... 207 ILLUSTRATIONS. MAl'.S. 1. Topofrrapliieal Map of n portion of Rupert's Land, Surveyed and Kxiiniined liy the Kxjie- ditiiin : .Scale, six miles In mie inch, or Tjg^'i in!- 2. (ieol(i;;ical Miij) of llic Kcirimi Kxplorcd : Scale, tweiily-liiur miles ti> one inch, or, ,3jir4«' J'LANS. ;t. Plan of ihe Grand Uajiid of Ihe Siiskatchewan : Scale, two miles to one inch, ur ,.,|j'-jij. I. Track .Survey of the (^n'Appclle, troni Sand Hill Lake io the South liranch : Scale, two miles to on<' incli. or y;;,;';.,^' SKCTIOXS. ."). Ocoloptical Section from Lake \Vinnipeliii\\ iiio- ancient Heaehes. willi Li^'iiiti' lionldcis - - - .W C'ross.Scction uf the (;n'.\p|icllc Vallcv at tlie Ilciciht iif l.iinil - . - - " - - (i.1 liidfris, with Ihinlihr-, In the Qn'Appelle \'alley Sceticni on Ihi' South liranch of the Sasktitche- 65 wan. .-howiiij: (.'oncrelionary Layers, &c. - 71 Ilori/oiital Layers nf ^>(lulhdwiiirr ijic inclination of Shale - i.'i2 Slalis and licaildcrr. in lilne Clay - - - l.'J2 Sectidii shdwiii;; the pdsilliai uf lincl, l'"ragini'nls 1,'12 Kdssils IVdin Snake Maud Iml'. I. - -200 I'loducliis fnuM Wed Kiver I'ifis. I, 2, and ;! - 200 Oilliocenis Siinpsoni - I'liile 1, li}.'. 1 - 217 Anoiiiia l'"lcmini[i - . Plate 1, ii;is. 2 and ii 217 Jnoccramus ( anadensis . I'laie 1, lifis. 4 and ■'> 217 Aviciila Linirna'fonnis - I'hite l.liir. (i - 217 ., Nchrascana - Plate l.liir. 7 - 217 Leila Hindi - . - I'l.ile 1. llirs. ,H and 9 217 -\iniiiiiiiilc> Itaiii-tdiii . riatr 2. (i;.'s. I — ;i - 219 ItilliiiL'sl . Plalc2,ti,L's. l,.'i,iind() 219 Scaphiles .Ndildsus . - I'lalc 2. IIl'S. 7 and S 219 Nautilus Dekavi . - Plate 2. tiu's. 9 and 10 219 «9 B 2 12 REPORTS or THE ASSINNIBOINE AND R E T U R N. To AN AuDitGss from tlic LiccrsLATivE Assembly to hU Excellency the Governor General, dnted the 20 til instnnt, projiii;; liis Excellency to ciiiise to be laid before the House, " Copies of all '* lt('|ioi'ts and ConiMiiiiiications of the Assinniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition, under " the charge of I'rofeBsor H. Y. Hind, durinjj; the year 1838." IJy Command, C. ALLEYN, Si'cretary. Secretary's OtBco, Toronto, 'J',)th April I8."i!". Sin, COl'Y or IXSTKJCTIONS. No. I. Secretary's Office, Toronto, April 14, 18.)t<. Duiiixo till' 1:1st week I roniniiiiiicnted to yon, verbally, iiislruclioiis in reference lo the proposed ExpeilitidU 1(1 the luighhourli'ioil of the lU-d Kivcr diirinnlhe pn»i'Mt year. •J. It I'.iis liec-ii (leciiliil, us ViUi are aware, with a viiw lo keep down as much as p(K>ilile ilii- expeii liemv llii^viar, 1^) (li-[)>>ii-f «illi llie scrvic-es of Mr. (iladmaii as ils j,'nieral maiiagir. :). 'I'lu- exploiatidii pally lliis uar will consisi of Iwo (livi>iiiiis, one lo he plaiiil iiiider your dire'.'lioii and roiitinl. ami the oilier under thf direelion of Mr. Dawson. 4. His Kxiellenry in Coimeil has been pleased to place under your eiiarj^e the 'I'opographical and (ic()l',)_nieal portion I'f llie Exploralioii. respcctiiii; which full iiislrncliniH will be given in another lettir, while Mr. l).i»ji)ii will coiilimii' to perforin the same duties as last year, viz., lliose of surveyor, i^'e. .'j. The estimate of llie probable expenditure of the Expedition, submitted by you on the Ctli instant, was laid belbre his Exerllcncy in (.'omicil, and has hcin a|iproved of by them, and I have aeeordiiigly now to direct yon to be gtiidcd as niucli as possible by that estimate in eu'.;agin>j; your assistants, liirin" your men, as well as in llie other neei'ssary expenditures of the Expedition. (i. It is hardly ncce-siiy lo siy that his Kxcilleocy relies upon your rxereising a due economy In all m;illers ecmiiecird with the ICxpccljlion. 7. .\s soon as yon havo comphtcd \our contem|ilatc'd party, you will luriii..h mc with a sehednh', giving till.' names of all the persons composing it, and stating their rales of pay. and the dales bum which their pay is to commence. .Such a schedule will be necessary to supply ihe auditor with ihe means ot auditing yoin' ace(jiinls. 8. Ilavirg organi/ed yonr paity, you will lose no time in repairing with ihein to lied liivcr, taking with yon the supplies (referred to in the estimate) re.'|uired for Mr. Dawson. !). On your way to the Red Kiver, yon will lake possi.-sion of the canoes, p.rovisions, and other articles belonging lo the (iovernmeiit, either at C'ollingwood or Sank .Sle. Marie. These, with the men intended lor Mr. Dawson, you w 11 deliver over lo that gentleman wIhii you meet him, either at Red Kiver or on his way back. 10. You are lo consider all the articles and materials of any descripti(m belonging to the Canadian Ciovernment, connected with the late Expedition, as available (or the purposes of the present Expedition, and yon and Mr. Dawson may therefore divide them between you in whatever way you may think most advantageous. Such articles, if any, as may not be recpiired by cither of you should be left iti the custody of some trustworthy person to await the orders of the (Jovernmcnt. 11. As soon as you shall have put .Mr. Dawson in possession of the men and canoes intended for him, each of you will be held separately responsible for the expenses of hi« own parly. You will, therefore, be careful to keep an accurate account of your expenditure. I'J. The Amlitor-General of I'nblie Accotuits will give you any information yon may refpiire as to the most convenient mode of making out and furnishing your accounts, See. 1.'}. On yoiu' return from Montreal I shall be prepared to give you your instrnclious with reference to the localities in which your exiilorations are to be conducted, and as to the objects lo which your atteniion is to be more especially directed. I have, &e. (Signed) T. J. J. LoRANoi;!!, Secretary. To H. Y. Hind, llsq., 'I'oronto. i>L SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 18 No. II. Sin, , Secretary's Oflicc, Toronto, April 27, 1 8.j8. I HAVE the honour to conitnunicutc to you the Iiistructioim promised iu tiie last pnrn;;;raph of my letter to you of the 14th iiislaiit, for your guiduiice in connexion with the branch of the expeilition to the west of Red River, whicli has been committed to your ciiarge. 2. 'I'lic instructions contained in that letter will suflicc for your guidance up to the time of your arrival ot the Red River setllcniciit, and the present instruction^) therefore have reference merely to your operations after having left thirt settlement. ;J. Tiie region of country to which your explorations are to he then directed is that lying to the west of Lake Winnipeg and Red River, ami enibracod(or nearly so) between the rivers Saskatchewan and Asslnnibone, as far west as " South lirancli House," on the former river, which latter place will be the most westerly point of yoiir exploration. 4. It will be your endeavour to procure all the information in your power respecting tlie geology, natural history, topography, and meteorology of the region above indicated. i>. As to the general character of the geological portion of your labours, it is unnecessary to add anything to the instructions communicated to you la»t year, and which, so far as this point is concerned, will servo for your guidance for the present season. 0. 'I'hi're are, however, two nmllers lo wliidi I am to recpu'st yon to direct your parliculiirattention, namely, th'.' Salt region in tlie iipighbourlioDd of I/ike Manitobiih adverted to in your report fur last year, and the deposit of tertiary coal or lignite, reporled to exist in the valley of Mouse Uiver. 7. It is most important that you should ascertain, by actual examination, as tar as ]iossible, the existence, extent, and character of the.sc deposits. 8. In ascending or descending the ditlerent rivers you may have occasion to explore, it is advisable that you siiould note with care their breadth, depth, rate of current, and the probable (piantily of water discharged by them at different points, and at dilferent seasons of the year ; their facilities for iiavigalion by boats or steamers, and whether they overflow their banks to any extent at any season of the year. i). The general aspect of the whole region should be carefully described. The clisracter of the timber and soil observed, unil the general fitness of the latter for agricultii.al purposes ascertained as far as may be from observation and incjuiry. 10. Il is desirable that your ineteorological ob.servations should be made with the maximum and niiiiimuiu ihernmmeter, and with the wet and dry bulb. The temperature of the rivers, lakes, and springs should also be recorded, and the rain-fall observed. Any reliable informalion you can obtain as to the iiuiinlity i)f snow precipitated during the winter would alsii be of interest. 11. Your topographical explorations -lioiild be made with reference tu the eoiistrnction of a map (as complete as possible) ol the region ex|ilored, on a scale of two miles to one inch — and your opera- lions shoulil 111 . I. .' in view of a pos.iible extension, at some future time, of the exploration, so as to embrace the e, re valley of Lake \\ innipeg and its feeders. I'i. With a view to illustrate the natural history of the country, you will avail yourself of such ojiportuuities as may present themselves to collect any objects that m.iy be Useful for that purpose. I.'). .\ny geological or natural history specimens wliieh y(ui may liave eollfcle 1 during your explora- tions, may be K It by yon at Red River, on your return, wlili the other property of the (iovernmcnt belonging to the e\pedil.-jii, to await the orders of the Government, with the otiier articles referred to iu the lentil paragraph of my letter of the l-lth instant. II. I am to ucea>ioned severe sores on the shoulders of son e of the men, which were submitted to with char.icteristie good n.ilnre. The storage of Mr. Dawson's supplies in I'orl I'rances seemed to be a great encouragement, and when reliived of this iluty our pnfgress was remaikably rapid. We camped oil' the mouth of Hed lliver seven days alter leaving I'orl Frances, ami might ea>ily have reached tlic .Settlements on the first day ot .lime, but in view of our liipid voyage fnan liainy Lake I did not think it iiceessaryto press the guiile; we therefore waited for a (t^w hours at I'ort AleNander, ami i iijoyed the very geiuToiis hospitality id' .Mr. Sinclair, the gentleiiTan in charge. The ex, let time the ex|ieilitii)n s[)eiit in eaiioes lictw.'eii LaKe Sujierior and l!ed liiver, after dednctiiig the delays at the lints helnie mentioned, was "21 days and l^ix hours, as opposed to 27 (lavs .Tint six hours by the Kainiiiistii|uia roiile last year. 'J'he average daily progress was "Jwl miles against 'J.") miles in IH.")?. 'I'lie (iiand I'orlage. made to overcome the falls of Pigeon liiver, I'Jd feet high, has been often cited as the chief obstruction to the Pigeon River route Its length is H miles L"> chains. 'I lie road is dry, ami in compaiismi with sonic of the portages oil the Kaministiipiia route, in good condition It is |)as,sable lor an ox team, which is emplnyed by the jieople in charge of the American tradiuir post in forwarding their supplies. I endeavoured to procure ihe ox carl and learn to Iransfor the heavy baggage from the east to the west end ol the portage, but allhimgh the eart was available the team was not, one ox having dii'd during the wiiitir, and ihe other was in .-iich a miserabie eondilion that he cuahl scarcely diaw the carl itself. The passage ol the (iiand I'orlage conseiinently occupied live days instead of two, and in making a compaiiMiii between the two canoe routes to Lake \Vinni|)eg these facts must bo borne in mind. Ill l.'s.')? the Iteil Kivi.'r expcdilion laniled at Fort William on the yisl of •Inly, and reached the Sellleinents on the -Itli of .^eplember, having been ',U days on the road, or 40 from 'i'oronto. This expeibtioii re.iched Cirand Portage on the 5th ot May, and arrived at the Stone Fori '^nd .lune, a period of "Js* days, or .S4 from Toronto. The (irand Portage lying within the territory of the L'nited Slates loses all intere:,t as the terminus of a (anailian route. Rut that part of the water communica- tion which forms the boundary line, and the eountry between Arrow Lake and Fort W'illinm, seems to acipiire iiiiportanee in proportion to ihe extension of our knowledge respecting its cupabilities and res inrees. The waters on the rivers and lakes on the east side of the height of land, the Lake Superior water- shed. Were high, whih' those on the H est side, or the tributaries to Lake Winnipeg, uniircccdentedly low. In many ot the lake- reeeiil waler-iiiai ks, four and five feet above the present level, were I'reipienlly observed. This remarkable lowness of the water is n'tributed by the half-breeds and Indians to the very small (juautity of snow which fell on the weslurn slope during the last winter. ll is important to hear in mind that the voyage of this expedition to Red liiver was miide under llie great disadvantages in.HCparable from unnsually low water, and whatever superiority the roiile SASK/VTCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 15 • apppor: '■ • i)OMCg9 over that of the Kaininistiniiia l>y Furt William, will bu iniicli niorc iipiHuciU in ordinii. loiit, when llu' lake and river levtls aie t'l oiti two to live liot iibovv llicir present ullitiidu. The I'ljiiomiif; brief skelell of the route U not intended to iuitici|)ate any rcsidts wliieli may be fnrnished by Mr. Dawson'.s proposed exploration duriii); tlit! ensuing summer and aiitinuii ; but as it was made under peculiar eircumslances, and in tlie npring of tlie year, it will M'rve to supply a blank which would be felt if a hot snunner with little rain-fall I'hnidd reduce the water levels niueli below their ordinary height in the aiitiiinnul inonllm; an event wliieli will not be (keiiied improbable when their present condition is known. From Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods onr course; lay on llie boundary line between DritiHb America and the United State!), as hiid down upon the uutliori/ed lithographed map furiushed by the Crown Lund Ueparlinent. The aceompaiiyiiig chart is based upon that survey, and the observations of Mr. Uickiiison assisted by Mr. Kleiniiig are marked in red ink. Chart No. "J shows the I'emiwa Uiver, down which the expedition voyaged, with a view to ascertain if it po8ri<'esed any advanlages over the old route by the Winnipeg. A,-* the iidorniation obtained is not likely lo possess any practical value in its bearing on the subject of a boat eoinnniniuatioii, I wouhl wish it to be re^ardeil merely an one of the .small additions to our idgraphical knowledge ol this (^(niiitry which oiiportunities oieasiomdly enable us to make, and wh' it is desirable to secure, BU long as they do not interfere with the general objeels of the expedition. The |)art of the I'igeon Uiver Uoute to wliich ihia notice refers, commences at Arrow Lake, a line expanse of water in connexion with While I'ish Lake, lying in a north-easterly direction, and within iiO inileii of the Kaminislicpna. From Arrow Lake, a short portage brings us into Kose Lake on the course of the old North West Company H route, following the bounilary line. The portages between Kose Lake and the Height of Land are short and low, while the Height of Land I'ortnge is not ."idO yards long, and dois not rise above .">(( fret. The passage from the St. Law- rence water-shed to that of Lake Winnipeg is short, cisy. and dry, inci)ini)arably superior lo the I'rairie portage, and liie (ireat Savanno eas()iis these rapids are passi'd wllliout ditlicully, but this yoar they involved the portage of a |i<)rliou of the baggage and llif letting ol the canoes ihiwn iheiii by rope. From Lake .Seiganagah * an Indian route passe.-, into Liltle .Siigaiiagali Laki'. wliich eoiineels with Slnrgeiiii Lake hores tlu' wiiitir ro.id to Fort William runs. Uilween Knife Lake and Hiivli Lake tiiere are two routes, one eoiiuiding with the boundary line, till' oilier passing in a north-wistcrly direelion by the (.lotted line shown on tlu' niaj), whicli we folhiwed, making howevir two port.iges in-tcad of one. but escaping some rapids. From Neipaupioii Lake oiii' route passe.•^ into the N'aniinkan Kiver, and aiiotlier. turning soiilli, follows the lioiindary line llirongli Loon's Narrows and then north into Nana ukaii Lake. Our guide pi'ifirred going by Loon's N'arniws, h.'uriiig that the always daiigcroiis Naiiuukan liapids would lii' almost impa>sable tor lie.ivily laden canoes, on account of the low st;ige of ihe water. Ill Loon's Narrows we Iniiiid a .-halli>w rivir with a strong current and many boulders, and in making the nialh-wotirly turn, instead of the broad channel shown on the map, a very tortiious, sluggish, and .shallow stream, led ii.s into the soiitii arm of Sand I'oint Lake. The banks of Loon s N.irrows sliowed lliat iii nrdinary seasons pKaily of water is found in the river to admit of loaded canoes or boats without taken liy U!i. Tlio iiin9, but at present it is only a rou^h foot-path. As it and Grand I'orlaj^e liay are altogether within the I'niled States territory, it is perhaps needless to propose any improvements that iui;;ht he made ill them. 'I'his porta^re is unavoidable, as I'igeon lliver, for sixteen miles from its mouth, is quite unnavigahle, liom the numerous falls and rapids in it. From the end of this portajje there is one and a half miles of still water to I'artridj^e Pmtage, whieh is -t^.') y.u'ds in leni{lh. The path is on the American .-ide of the boundary lioi', as it is also at many otiier places aloui; this route. In ihe.-e ea-es path- shonhl be soni;ht for on Urilish territory, and wliieli coul I be obtaineil, .is well as we could observe, uiihoiit rinich ditticully. Above I'iii lri(ljj;i' l'iiita;;e the rivi r is deep an path is on the Itritisli side, and is ^liort but rou^li. When the water is high, no seini-decbarfje is reipiired ; but at the time we pas^^ed, the water here and in all the rivers and lakes was peculiarly low, the hif;h-vvater mark appearing to be four feel above the |)resent level. The distance to the m-xl semi-decharge is two miles, in wliieli length there are no obstriielions. 'I'he second semi-dech.ir^e i- r.boul .'ID chains long; in guiiii^ down h territory, due precautions having been taken that the boundary line be not nbliterated. We here enter on Foul Lake, whieh is four and three i|o,iiler luileu long; in the middh! there is a narrow strait abiait 10 I'liains wide and .'Id chains long, part ol it being rather shallow ; the other Jiarts of the lake ari' one niih wide on an average. At the end of it is .^loo^e Portage, 7'JI yards long; the path, which is the bonnilary line, eould be easily inipioved or removed to iine side. Moose Lake is four and a half miles hmg, with an average uiilth of half a mih' ; il is very dcc|), and is never frozen over till late in the season, and the ice tu not broken up (ill long alter that in the other lakes. Great Cherry Portage is the next ; it is 844 yards long, leading to a small lake ((iiarter of a mile long, at the end of which is Mud Portage, '.'(i.'j yards long; and between it ami the lesser Cherry Portage there is another small lake l.'i chains long. Un these three portages the boundary line, ns it ap])ears from the map, runs on the paths, although the lakes are connected bv creeks. 'I'he paths are tolerably good, but better eould be easily made, and solely on Hritish territory. We then come to the beautiful Mountain T.ake, which is seven and three ipiaiter miles long and three (luarters of a mile broad, deep, and navigable for boats of any size. Watap Portage, j.'li) yards long, lies between it and Walap Lake ; the path is the boundary line. Watap Luke is a narrow strip of water ."j^ miles lung and about la chains wide, .sullieiently deep throughout the entire length for any kind iif eiaft. The Great New Portage is 'J,.')?!) yards long; it is rather uneven, and is crossed by some small creeks: the boundary line is on it, but judging from the nature of the ground, u good path could be made on liritisli land. We now arrive at Ko.se Lake, which is separated from Arrow Lake by u narrow neck of land, across which a portage must be made. Arrow Lake is lf>i miles long, and has an average width of one mile; but as wo did not visit it, its character cannot, be described. Uose Lake is three miles long, and averages three cpiarters of a mile across ; it is deep, and well sheltered on all sides. SASKATCHEWAN KXPL()1UN(} KXI'K DITION. 17 I At tho end thorp it n p<)rtiif(o wliioli in not sliowii on tliu oi'i^ii.nl mnp; it in only 20 yardM lon|;, ntu\ on the Anu'ricnn liilc. Mud Litko in two luid ii hiiU' miles I(>m}{ iiimI n i|iiiirtcr milt! wide, luid iVnin tliit'c to foiii' fi'cr di>(<|i| witli a xol't miidiiy linltom; thi- water linviii^ ilic pccidiiir jiropi riy o! i'"tiu'diii){ tlio canoe, mu lilar tu tlint ol'lliu Viicou-i Lake on tli(! KaniiiiiHtl<|uia route. Ilclwcon it ami tlie next lake tliere U another porlnffo wliieh i-i not named ci' deMcrilicd on the orlKinnl map; il °IH() yards in len)rth, and is the boundary line, tin; present patl. I)ein){ tolerably good and li'vel. fSoutli Ijike \* the last on the >^l^l sidu of the Height of Imnd ; it is two and ihi I'e ipiarter mileH ocro^g to the lloiglit of Land I'ortaye; the lake is about three <|unrters of a mile wiue, uiul not nmrc than four feet deep alon^ the canne ronle, the hiidom ronsistinjt of very soft mud. 'I'lie llei){lit of Land Portage is -IdH yards long, and ia one of iho beat on llie route; a good road miglit be made without the Hlighlcat dilHculty, ihorc being plenty of pine and other good materiaU for the purpuio riose by. We enter a lake now whieh is the hoad of ihe Winnipeg water-shed ; having no name it may bo considered part of (inn Mint liake, with which it is ronnected by a slndl two and a half miles long, and varying from three t i ten eliains in widlli. 'I'lie traverse across this hike is one ami three (piarter miles long. Near tlie middle of the titrait there is a Hemi-ddcliarge not noticed on the original map ; it is but 'JO yards long, with about fs be removetl. Little Itock Portage is oidy il3 yards lung; it is, na its name implies, over a rock, which is very steep on the west side. Prom this to Mdl Pull portage is a mile ; the river \s about six clmiiis wide; at the end there is a rapid uitli a fill of three feet, the channel being (illeil up very much with boulders, so much so, that the canoes were let down with great dilhciilty. Mill Pall I'orlage, of 110 yards in length, ii over a very riigaed rock on the Anicriean side. 'I lie next Pmtage is a (piartcr of a mile further on ; it is .■»(•!» yards Iciim, over an if land ; the path is very f;ood and level except at the ends, wlure it is rather sleep and the lamliiii^s are bad, but could be eadily impnived, as indeed tlie landings at all the portages might be and without any considerable cost, as the materials for doing so can be obtained uiihont dillicully. This river or chain of lakelets id twelve miles long from Cinn Plint Lake to Like Seigaimgah ; for four miles lielow the hi'.tineiitiniied portage it is full of large lionldirs, wliieli make the navigation of it diHieiilt ; there are in this length six rapids, varying from live feel to one fool fall, at four of which the canoes had to be carefully lei down by ropes. Prom thence to the semi-iii'eharge of 100 yards in length and five feet fall, which is one mile from the end, the navigation is good. At the inoiitli of this river there is a portage which is not shown on the original map. neither are any of the rapids between this and the last portage. 'Pliif portage is .'(0 yards long, over a rocky point on the American side. \\r now I'liler Lake Seiganagah, the route through which follows the boundary line or nearly so, aiitl is nine miles in leiij;lli. 'I'lie gre.ite^t length of this lake is PJ miles, and the greatest width six miles. It is lull of island-, from whlih il derives its name, airording good shelter to canoes, at the same time not iniiiediiig the navigation for huge lioals. After passing tiirough a short eliannel I'J chain-' wide we (liter Swamp Lake, which is two am! a (piarler miles long, and averaging 1)0 ehaiiiH wide ; in it tliere is a small portage *_>0 yards long; the channel being only about three feet wide and very shallow. 'I'he water in the western portion is higher by alxmt one foot than that in the other ; the w.iters of Lake Seiganagah must therelbre find an exit elsewhere. Swamp Portage is ■••J:l yards long, on which is the boundary line ; the path is very good, except at the east end, wlure il is swampy, the landing there being exceedingly bad; however, here as el.-e- wliere, there is no reason why a good one might not be made very easily. Cypress Luke, the next we enter on, is a long narrow lake live and a ([iiarter miles long by a (piarter of a mile wide, and of flulKcient depth. There is a portage al the end 47 yards in length; with little labour and expense this portage miglil lie done away with, or al least made a semi- (h'charge; the present path, however, is very good, and is on the Uritish side of the boundary line. Knile Lake, the next on the route, is of a very irregular shape ; the course follows the boundary line for eight miles, when it then diverges to the north. When the water is high the course may continue ahmg the boundary liiie the whole way as it is .shorter than the other ; bill when the water is low the narrow channel is full of rapids, and becomeH iinlil lor the navigation of largf canoes, and then Ihe northern course on Itriliah territory, as i^hoivn by the red-dolled line on the map, which we took, is iniich preferable. The first portage, three quarters of a mile from ihe boundary line, is rather bad ; il is 700 yards long, and is very roiigli and hilly ; but a belter one might no doiilil be made. Alter passing through a lakelet three (planers of a mile long by a ([iiarler of a mile wide, we come to the next portage, which is a short one, (iO yards long. 'I'he upper portion of Uirch Lake is then entered, and the eourse is continued in a soiilh-wv-lerly ilircclion for four and a quarter miles nil it reaches the boundary line, along which il ullerw.irds goes. . c 18 IIKPORTS OF THE ASSINMBOINE ANU Hull' u iiillo I'lirtlu'r on tht> Ciirp I'urtiiKu i* rvnclird; it iit 'i7S ynrdi in IviiKtli, ilio |mlli \* vcr^ ({iiuj iiidi'i'il, liiit l'i>iiii« llii' huiiiiilitiy liiH-, jia it ii|i|)i'urH Iruiii tliu iiiii|), iillliuii){li tliui'u in a rliuiiiu'i ciutf l>y wliicli wuiiltl liavL- ttivii tlic inoru iiiiturHJ (iiii>. 'I'lii' coiii'HU tliruii^li till- (itlii'i- purtiuii ul' Uiruli Luku in t'uiir mile* long, iilon^ whiuli the wiilvr it .'uiild bo m'cn tliiTu npiH'ai'H no rcaaori wliy tliu poibigr iniglit not bo nmdo on tlio oppoiiilo aidt'. 'I'lio noxt portago, llio I'ir, i» i)&U yardi long; tliv palli \h tlie jjoundary linu ; it in ovor very rooky ground, and riioa consiilorubly in llio iniddio. Al'tor pasxiiig tlii^i iiorlago tlioro uru in tlio lirat niilo two rapids not .^liown on tbo orlgitiid map ) one of tlirou loot lull, tlio utiior of two I'tut, but wliioli aro oanily rnii. 'I'lio obannol in not inoro tliaii about 10 cbaina widu, itiid oontiiiuo* of tbii width for tovoii and a hull inilos. 'I'wo mill's bi low tho laat rapid is a portago Kid yards long ovor a high rooky point on tlio Aiiiorican sido ; tliir was no appatvnt objoctiun why a portago |mth mighl not bo cunatructod on tlio otiior aido in liritixb torriiory. 'I'lnvo milia fiirthor down tho chaniiol Cruokod Lake, which fully duaorvo* its naino, in fairly oiitorod on. llio couiso follows tho bonnilary lino through it, and by its windings is 14 miloa in loiigtii, tbmigh tilt* aliaolulo longlh of tho lako is but 10. llio navigation is somowhat intrioato, at tlio saino tinii.' i|uito '^iitKcioiilly good for ovoii boats of largo dinii'iHioiis, Curtain Fall I'ortago l long : llio water was of good diptb tho oiitiro way; at llio oast oiiil, wlioro it bci'iiiiios liko a rivir, llioiv is a "Iroiig oiiiiciit, but wliioh canoos or boats whon axondiiig oan oasily ovcrcoiiio. liolllo I'ortago, wliicli is 1 18 yards I'liig, inij^lit bo oasily iiiadi' ono ol tho bc^l on tlio roiilo ; tin- ground is viiy Kvcl oscopt at tho onds, which aro rallior ^tc('p, but by ii liltio inaiiiigoinciil tho path could bo niado wiili tho proper inclination. 'I'licro is a lung slrolcli ■.'•J milos in length now of imvigablo water through Nci(UH»(pion Lake, tlio oouroc 'jllowing generally the boundary lino, except about tho contro of the lake, whore it keeps lo tliu souili of tlio largo JKlaiid. At tho sooili-wost end there in n porliigo 217 yards long on the .American >i(lo. Very little is rei(uiroil tu make a good path on Hrltish territory. After passing tliruugli a Miiiall lake fuur luilos long by the course, a narrow oliannd called Loon's Narrows is entered. One and tliroo-i|iiMrlor milos from tbo cummcnceiiiont there is a porlngo of '.'(ill yards on the Ainerican bide. It appeared us if u sliorlor ono, and on as level grunnd, conid bo made on the liritish nido. Half a mile from this there is another portage B7 yards long, also on tho Ainoricnn territory, which iniglit bo traiiBlorro,o portages the current ii very strong, and at tho bend the river is very shallow, and the bed covered with small boiilder.s, winch, however, could Ik; eusily removed and theclmnnel deepened. As tho wutor was veiy low at the time we passed along, it was oonlined to a clmnnol from two to four chains in width for a dislunce of six miles, meandering through u viilley which in times of liiyh wutor is covered as shown on the map. Sand I'oint Lake may be said to commence here. It is !)^ miles long, and down the ooniro is the course and boundary line; it is free from any kind of obstruction to good iiavigntion. It is connected with Nameukun Lake by a strait 10 clinins wide. I'rom this through Nameukan Lake there arc two coureoii to Hainy Lako, the one following the boundary lino by the Kettle Falls Portage, of l'J7 yards in length, the other by the eastern channel, by which the Expoditiun went last year, and which we took this; on it there are two very short portages, and the course is much shorter than the forimr. 1 have reiraiiicd from oft'eriiig the necessary suggestions for the improvement of thin route, as I nndei stand Mr. Dawson is lo muke a complete exploration and snrvey of it this year, and ivlio will tlieroforo be better able to form an opinion as to its capabilities and required improvements. However, from even the cui^ory examination I was enabled to make, it apiicuis greatly superior to tho Kamini8ti(|uia route. It is Ijli miles shorter limn the other. There are fewer portages, all much shorter with the cxcep- ' " as the Savanne, I'ralrio, or (iroat all more easily run. Kxccpting -_ . _ vay "connected by short channels, in few of which only the current is at all strong, I lliink that with u comparatively small outlay the route could be made navigable for large row bouts, and that on many parts of it small tug-stenmers could be advantageously employed. I remain, &c, Henry Y. Hind, Fsq. (Signed) JAMFS A. DICKINSON. , ^— ^ — 11 IS oo miles siiorior iimn tile other, iliere are lower portages, i tion ol the Grand I'ortago ; and none of them are nearly so bad i Dog I'ortagos. 'I'liero arc very much fewer rapids, and which aro Pigeon Iliver, it consists of a chain of lakes the whole way connc( SASKATCHEWAN KXPLORINO EXPEDITION. 19 ••' ' No, III — FoiiT OAnnv to Foiit Ehucr, vi'l riir Lini.r. Houhh. SiH, I'oit Kllicc, Itiiport't I^nnd, July 0, lAAf). In tlir Irttrr I Imil tlic lionmir In adrlrosf to von from 1((' Mrtltliinr lii»r, I Mialed tliat, niter milking tlii> nfCc^Hsry pri'iiiirnlion, I hIidiiIiI iniinciliiituly coitimonrc the explnrntion of tho u'y of tli(< AHaiiiiiilxiiiii' Uivcr, 'I'ln' >liitru«l, nirl cvrn ilrrnd, witli which thu Hloiix linlinnH urn ii'l^urduil by iho Hud Uivur huntei'H. iiiiido if ncceunry ii> .t'l'mc ihi> nerviccB of it iilri)ni( piirty tWr the expliii'ulioii of ihi' Lillle Soiiim oi- Mhiiho llivcr, wIhm-o lirliiiry coid win rnpurlcd to <'xiiit. in rniimquencc, howi'ViT, of the fuiluri' of last year''* aiiliimii bnfl'uln hiiiil, nnd tlie ravn^cn of the uni»N- Imppcrx ut I'rairle l'ortaf;e, and i'Ihi'uIk i In the setilruK iif''. moat of the ahli-bnihed inon litted for thu exigencies of It jonrnoy into the IiuImi ronntry Imd lo(t (he »etllcnieiilii a few daypt lu'foro my arrival, either for the liulfalo I'hiini or fur St. I'anI; and it waa with some dittioully that 1 could procure ei^lit nion and the iipceiiirtn){e, making; on Ilia way u Hcction of llie AMKiiiniboine River, and nucertJtining by numerous triairt its rate of eurreiit, volume of water, il(e. 'I'lie Assiiinilioiiie valley. >oiilli of the ni|( Uiilfjc, on ihe iimih xide of the river, conipriHlii^; an area exeeediii;; half a million acres, was de.ieiil)eil in my report of lii>t year as ponsCHsiiin a -oil of reiiiark- alile eNci'lleiue, The rcsiilln of a iiiiiie partienlar exainilialinn cliiring the pre-eiil siiisoii fully bear o'll llie faVDUnibli! iipliilon previously formed. After reachiiij; I'niiiie I'oilnjje we prociided on the north bank of the AHainnlboine as far ns th« inonlli of the Lillle .Souris Itiver. During thin part of our journey we oeeiiiiioMally t milea. We fre<|ueiitly Haw thi.s vast forest from hills on the north xide of iho rivor covering n trad of cnnntry which could not be les.s tlian I'i or 1.^) luilcH in breaillh ; and with a good tehscopo the pr.iirle between it and nn extension of I'enibiiiH Mimntain or Itidge wna Irnced. I have ascertained that the lores! contains some tine limber, nnd is well known to liidlaiis who hniil tlu're during the winter, but the trails of llie biitfalo hunlerx avoid it. and keep In tho open prairies; hence its existence even it nnknown to many of ihi' rcMideiiis at lied Itiver, anil the bulliilo hunters, always eliunning it. have but little knowledge of ila limber resources. Il Is my intention on refurniiig to the -(.ttlements In penolrnto through this forest in two or three directions, with a view lo ascertain it.s chanicirr, ns far as time will nllnw. It is needless to dwell upon the great importance of »n abundant nnd unexpected a supply of serviceable timber, within one or two days' journey of n very extensive nnd fertile arable country, nnd on the banks of a imvignblp river, within n dny's inarch of fort (iiirrr. The coniitry on the north aide of the Assinniboiiie between Prairie Portage nnd the month of Ihn Jiillle Souris, for a distance of several miles back from the river, is poor and scantily limbered, 'llie prairies on the Little .Souris nre aliio light, and the deep valley of that river contains but little timber. At Snake Creek nmnernus speciineiiH of drift lignite were found, and after a few hours' exploration, favoiirnble indicniinns led ine to have a section of the river's bank exposed, by making a cutting at right angles lo it, with n view to show thi' strntificntion. Here, no less than four distinct benches of n former Inke were brought to light, each bench bearing nnmerone rounded nnd polished boulders nnd pebbles of drift lignite, vnrying Ironi two to fifteen inches in dininetor, but no trnce of the lignite in place wna seen on the Little Souris north of the 4!>th ]>arnllel. The beaches just referred lo were several times noticed further np the river ; they nre nccompnnied by n bed of ferru- ginous sand, nbove which seveml extensive depoMlts of bog iron ore nnd shell mnrl were found. Having determined, if lime will permit, to return to the settlements »ii ilie seillctneiits by the end of August. 'I'lie wcallier on ilie whole has l)eeii very lavomable, but in the early part of our journey thunder s'lorms, for uiiuiy (liiy.'< in siicce<-ion, caused three or four hours delay during their coiuinuance. We have had si veutoin tluuider-^lonuj in 'J3 days; nearly all were of a violent character, with hail, lie ivy r.iin, and hoiseious wind''. We did not .-lee any ludi ins befcae our arrival at Fort l'!liice. On the Ued Deer's Head lliver an alfempt was iua.\sK.\rciir.w.\N, rniiNi k to Foiit A i,.\ CoiiNi: AM) Ki'.n l{ivi:i;. ■ licil liiver. .■"ieiitrinlier 1(», l^'.")8. On tile I8tli of tluly. or nine days after the date of ilu' report wliicli I had the lionuiir to address to yon from Fort lllice, we arrived at the Uu'.\|ipelle Mission, leceiitly I'staUlislied on one of ihc lake^ wliieli distin^uisli that part of llie (Jii'Appclle or (ailing Kivcr v.iljey. F'rom tlie littli of June lo the Ifith of .Inly, it was found necessary or advantageous lo preserve the partv coiiiposiiiL; thi~ expediiion united, but h iving arrived in ihe Cree coniilrv, to the north of the prairies generally oiciipied by bauds of .Sioux and .\ssinnil)oiiie Imliaiis, 1 hiiiiiii it desirable lo form three divisions, with a view lo traverse and examine the country hereafter described. The .Mission of the (^n'.Appelle Lakes is situale0 miles we-t el' the (JirA|ipelle Mission, travelled across the country to Fort I'l liy, with Mr. Dickinson's carts and suppliis. 'I'lie third division of the parly, comprising iiivseb, Mr. I'leming, and two men, sailed or tra<>ked up the (JirA|ipelle Lakes and Kivcr to tlic (irand Forks, a liisiaiice of .")(! miles, where three men, with or.r supplies, met lis at the aiipointed time ; we then lollowed the valley of the (ju'Appc lie liiver to its source, and passed on through a coniiiiuatioii of the same valley to the south branch of the .S.iskaliliewan by the " liiver that turns," flowing winterly. We struck the .s>iiiith liraiicii at the Klbow, and l.iunched our tbree-fatlioin canoe on that magiiili- ceiit river, down which Mr. I'leming and I drifted for 2.V1 miles, until we came to the junction of the north and south liiaiiches of (he Saskatchewan. I'be supplies, with lour men and a Ciee guide, were sent across the country lo Fort li la Coriie, opposite the Nepowecn Mission, about \» miles below the Forks. 'Fwo days were occupied ill examining part ol the Coal Falls on the North Ibanch, above the Forks; after which we joined the carts on the !'tli of .Aiijiust at Fort a la Corne, Mere I made aiiotht r division, sending Mr. Fleming with two men in a canoe to Cumberland, thence lo proceed down the Siskalchewaii, and by the west coa.st of Lake Winnipeg to lied liiver. Taking the carts and four men, 1 followed the course of Long Creek against the current, running parallel to the South llraiich for a distance of .'><» miles; then, turning in a south-easterly direction, travelled across the country to the Touchwood Hills, and thence to Fort Kllice, where, after an absence of 4il days, I met Mr. Dickinson and his party within three miles of our appointed rendezvous. After Mr. Dickinson's arii'al at Fort I'elly, he proceeded with Mr. Hime to examine the Hanks of the Dauphin Moiinlain, I'rc.n Swan liiier to Hapid liiver or the Little Saskatchewan, u tract of country comprehending tic greater portion of the uortli eastern water-shed of the Assiniiiboiiie. Alter our union at Fort i Jlice we pioceeded to Ued liiver titi the While Mud River, which flows into Lake Maniiobah, and .irrived at the settlements on the 4th of September, nearly three months from the ihite of onr departure. Mr. 1 It'iiiing has not yet lelurned, and I am now preparing to go in a canoe with a supply of provisions to iiuct him, in case the soiilherii wind should prevent him from advancing. The impm'tiince of asccrt.iining the true cliar.icter of the (Ju'.(Vppclle Valley became more evident as we proceeded westward and met with Indians and a few half-breeds, whose accounts and descrip- tions seemed to agrie in the general statement that u great valli'y, a mile or a mile and a half broad, and Iroiii lot) to 'MO leet deep, did exist, ruuniiig in u course nearly due east and west, between the south branch of the Saskutcliewan and the Assinniboine. SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 21 The Qu'Appellc River rises witliin 12 miles of the Saskntciiewnn, us shown on the nccompanying map. Its course is first nortiierly for several miles, tliroiij;h a narrow gully wiiich widens into a deep valley before it reaches the Qu'Ap])elle Valley proper. About four miles west ol'the Qu'Appellc, and running in u direction nearly parallel to it, a river called by the ("rees of the Sandy Hills " The Kiver that turns," Hu'vs into the same great valley, and pursues for l'2 miles a westerly course, when it fall.s into the South Itraneh at the I'dbow ; this is evidently the Heart Kiver of 'rhoni|i.soii's Maj). Hy the united action of these rivers, and other agents to he described in full in my general Report, a great valley stretching from the .'^agkatchewan to the As.sinniboine has been excavated. This valley has a greatest breadth of about one and a half, and a Ica-I l)ruadth of about 1 alf a mile at the Siiiidy Hills; its greatest depth below the I'raiiie is between .'iO(> and 100 fei-r, its liast depth l.'iO feet, nctwcou liie Qu'Appellc Kiver and the " Kiver that turn.s," tlieie i.-< a space of about lour miles occupied by ponds in the valley, which unilt^ into a .'•hallow lake in llie spring and send their waters at the same time to the Assiuniboine and the Saskalchewan. Willi a view to determine the height of the Qu'Appellc, where it enters the great valley, above the Soulh ISranch, we levelled from one river to li.e other, and found a dill'crence, in I'J niiUs, of 8() leit. The Qu'A|>l>elle is here about 10 h'ct broad and one and a half deep. The '■ Kiver that turns," nearly ol the same (hmeiihioiis, and the south branch of the Saskalchewan about half a mile broad with a channel 10 lect deep. These altitudes and distances are given in round numbers, but tliey will be accurately expressed in accordance with repeated measurements in my general Keport. In order that llic waters of the Saskatchewan might flow down ihc (iu'Appille Valley into the Assinniboiiu', a rise of 80 feet in l"J miles would have to be overcome, and 1 am per.suatani'e ol l°J miles, an impetuous torrent occupies the valley, leaving along its course many indications of its violence and force. In the spring of Its.'rJ, ever reinaikable in ibis country for ils extreme humidily, a canoe nii^lit have passed tioni the S.iskatchewan to the .\ssiniiil;oiiie by rising f^O leet in I'J miles; then doceiidiiig about 'JOO feet, in a distance ol' |ierliiip~ ".'."iO miles to the A-sinniboine. The (^n'Appelle Lakes easi of llie mi-s:on are hriilly described in the ai lonipaiiying Keport by Mr DiekiiiMin. The l.ikes wist of the mi>«ion iire I'liir in number; lliedeiith ol ilnei ol'llicm is about .'(O feet, the last or Salt Lake near the Height of Land is very slialloH, and dins not contain in the Minmicr months drinkable water. rrmn the fir.-t lAu'l, riile accompanying map, another greit valley sini lar in all respects to that of the (iu'Appelle Kiver, stretches In a north-westerly direction, and for 40 or ,)0 niiles is occn|)icd by waler. forming a long, narrow lake, varyiu'.,' from tlinc-iiuarters of a mile to two miles i'l breadth ; this i^ called by the frees, tlu' Long Lake, also the Last Mcnintain Lake: it i^ I'oiineeled with the Siiskaiebev.an by a broad excavated chaiiml. similar lo that occupied by the " Kiver that turns." Long Lake abounds in fish, but there is very liltle timber to be found on ils ~teep elli'like b.inks. 'I'he south branch ol'the Saskatchewan is a noble river, varying in width from h:\lf a mile to .'JOO yards, fi'r a mall diuiensioiis ; the same maybe said of the Qu'Appelle valley; open prairie on I'ither side, or prairies covered with clmn|is of aspen. In the mimerous gullies wbiih give variety lo the steep banks of liolh the (jii'.\ppelle and .Saskatchewan valleys small limber is invariably found. The main Saskatchewan is a river of very imposing mag- nitude. Like the South Kr.incb it occnpiis a narrow, dei p valley, varying in width from one and a half to three miles, extending a tew mihs below the Nepowien Mi-sion. It flows in grand curves from side to side, and its general level is about .'iOO feet below the country through which it has excavated ils channel, afterwards it enters the low region. We have nuide many sections of the .South Krancli, Main Saskatchewan anil (ju'Appclle, &e., and nninerous trigonometrical measurements of their valleys, and noticed eontinually Ihe rate of currents, volume of water, character of banks, See. ^c., all of which will be embodied in the general Keport. In the large expanse ol country over which our explorations have extended, the area of laud ol the first qimlily, namely, of black vegetable nioiild reposing mi gravel or day, is fir inure extensive and important than we aniicipaled. It is distributed as follows : — I. On the south branch of the Saskatchewan from the Moose Woods to the Xepowewin Mission, and according to the description of half-breeds familiar with the coniitry. a .-oil of Kjual excellence extends to the valley of Swan Kiver. The iuimediate banks of the Saskatchewan are of a poor, sandy, or gravelly soil, but on the prairie phitean three mihs from the river, the rich .soil commences, and ill the ]iart over which I pas.scd, has a breadih of sixty miles. •_'. The Tonchwood Hill lange, Imving an area exceeding 1,000,000 acres; fin- beauty of scenery, richness of soil, and adaptation lor settlement, this is by liir the most attraclive area west of the Assinniboiiie. ."i. The soil is of first ipiality in the valley of .'>wan Kiver, and over the whole ol ihe east water slu'd of the Assiiiniboine, with the exception of the country near its hanks. 'I. The valley of \Miile Mud Kiver i> generally fertile and inviting. Until the maps which will accom[iaiiy the general Ke[i(U't are prepared, it is impossible to give an ap|iroxlmate calculation ol the aria of available arable land, but 1 may here Bay, that the ratio wblcli land vX excellent quality bears to land of indill'erent or woilhlcss quulily in the regions just referred to is largely in favour of the former. C 9 22 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND Tlio EidiiifT Mountain, na dcscribeil in Mr. Dickinson's report, is timbered with large nspen. On the ii'vcl country drained by tiic SnsJtatcht'wan, from the Moose Woods to tiio Ncepoween Mission, the timber is hmall, but on the Touciiwood Hill range tiicrc arc some fine aspen forests. 1 liave succeeded in finding numerous rock exposures on the Qu'Appclle and south branch of the Saskatcliewan, wiiicli will enable me to produce a geological map of a large portion of the country briefly described. 1 ^'tavt inunediately lo meet Afr. Fleming, and then propose to visit the east flank of Danphin or Riding Mountain, and the Salt Springs on Dau[)hin River and Lake. Mr. Dickin.'ioii will examine the coinitry south of the Assinnibnine with a view to ascertain the extent and eharacter of tlie forest to wiiicli allusion was made in my report from Fort Ellice. I have, ^c. Hon. T. .r. .1. Loranger, M.P.P. (Signed) H. Y. HIND. Provincial Secretary, Toronto. No. Y. — Mil. Dickinson's Rf.pout on the Qu'Appki.i.k Vallf.v East of the Mission.- Pki.i.v to the lUi'iD Rivi:ii. -1'"()IIT Sill, Red River, September fi, 18.")8. Tiir. following Iiepnrt contains a short description of those parts of the country which 1 have exaniiiii'd acecrdinL; to your letter of itKlnictioiis, dated I'orl Kllice, .Inly I2tli, 18.''>8, together with a 1)1 ief notice (it >()iMe of my u|ieraticins tVoni .Iiily j!lllli, the day wc parted at th(^ (^hiircii of Kngl.nid Mi-sion, (ju'-Vpiicllr Lake, till we met at I'lai Hllice on Aiigii-t "J.'til. After our sepaiatl(Ul at the head i)f the liver i.->uiiig frmn the Lake at llii' Mission, I took ii section of the lied of the river and ascertaiiieil the rate of the enireiil, and then proceeded down it to the next lake, which is the .second of tlio>e called the risliiiit; Lakis, iis fi>li ari' miirli more ahuiidaiil in these than in those lakes fiii'ther down the (Jii'.Vppelli' \'alley. 'I'lie eliaiaeter of this pcirtiou of the liver which coiineels lliesi- two lakes together, lieing exactlv similar id that dI' all oilier parts of it, mie general ili'-cription will sii(lii-i'. Ii);;t of the bend-, are so very >liarp that it was with uuich dinicnlty the .-mall canoe, only two and a half lallioin> long, could lie suvrid safely round llieiii and prevented IVoiu rniniing in on the banks, the ciirri lit at some of llieiii being two miles per hour. Tlie -( eond of the " I'i-liing Lake.-,"' the one which 1 lir-t came lo, is aboiil three and a half miles long and three (piasters ol a mile liroad ; it is more than seven fatlionis deep cvirywhere I tried it, even within a fiw yards of llio shore, 'i he river flowing from this to the next lake is lint half a mile long. fill' name of the lake in Cree is '' Pa-ki-tali-»i-wiii.'' in I'.nglish the ' rishing Lake,'' called so /Kii i'.in//iiiie from the great (piantilies of t\>\\ it contains at -oiiie periods ot' the year. It is about six miles long and three i|Uarlers of a mile wide, which is about the average width of the valley. J trird the de[itli of it in several places along the course 1 toe the nce was not able to start till late in the al'teniooii. -Mr. M( Kay kindly sent men to assist me in eros-ing iIk^ (^u'.Vppelle lliver, which was aceonipli-hed without any los,~. and with but one aeeideiit, my horse reeeivint; ralliir a bad cut when uietliiijj; up the hank of the river, which was very soft, anil covered with broken trees. We camp.d lor the nij;lil on the north >iile of the valley ; this side is eomiiosed of line loose ^and. iiitei mixed with ^iiiall boulders. I'l'oni this to the Wolverine t'l'eek, a distance of about I.) miles, the land is li^hl >aiiily clay, in many ph'.ces pure sand, eiivcrcd princi|ially with a low ^rowing creeiier, bearing berries like the juniper: the f,'ra?s is very .short and scanty, and the aspiai-, which are the only trc •<. are very sin:ili. I'nriher on, the eoiintry improves very much as to its soil and \egetalioii, but it aboiuiils with marslie-, swamps, and ponds of various sizes, round wliich L;row willow and young aspens, and tlii:- is for about (>0 miles. I'roni thence to I'ort I'elly the eoiiutry is den-ely covered with aspens from live to 1.) feet hii;h.aiid willows of dilfeient kinds; there are open -paces to be seen now and then, where the wunilerl'iil luxuriance of tln^ vegetation is beyond de^crlptiou. Lakes ami ponds are viry numerous throughout, encircled with large aspens and balsam (loplars. There are several rivers and creeks llowing into t!ie .\ siuuiboine, into which many ol'tluse marshes and swamps niii;ht be easily diained. Whit'' Mud River, which i- the larjiest of them, i? 7(1 feet wide, four feet deep, and very rapid, so raiiid that it was with much ditlicnlly we lorded it. 1 arrived at Tort I'elly on .\ugHst 1st, where I liiuiid Mr. I lime and the others of my parly. Next day I took observations fiir latitude and ViU'iation of compass, and in the afternoon, accompanied bv Mr. Macdoualil, who was in teinpoiary charge of the fort, inspected the farm wliiih the ('om|iany have here. 'I'he crops had been beautiful at the beginning of the season, but ha\e been all, excepting the |M)tatoc, completely devoured by the grasshoppers The next day 1 rode to Swan Uiver, by the valley of Snake C'reek, with Mr. Macdonald and .Mr. llime. This beanlifnl valley contains all the leipiireineiits necessary for a settlement. The timber is very plentihil and of a good si/e: there is no pine, however, but the balsam spruce, which the people here mistook llir it. is ahnudanl, and averages two feet in diameter at five feet from tin- groiuid. There is somo tamarack also, tall and stiai|ilit. from 1 ft. fl in. to 2 feet in diameter. The balsam and aspen poplar grow to a large si/e, and are every- where to be had. The land, for the most part, is good sandy loam, and is traversed by numerous crei'ks. Snake Creek is about 13 feet wide, and I ft. 6 in. deep ; it yields plenty of fish, as also do one or two small creeks running into it. Swan liiver is from !)0 to 100 feet wide and 14 feet ileep ; its current is very rapid, being about three miles an hour ; it is very winding where the .Snake ('reek joins it, and I believe is so all along. The valley, which is from rtO to 100 feet below the general level of the country, is most rich and fertile, but almost altogether filled u\) with trees, such as poplar, balsam, spruce, and willows. The next day, .Vugust 4tli, we left Fort I'elly, and proceeded along the base of the Duck Mountain, a part of the chain of mountains called the Dauphin ; proiierly speaking, it is a high ridge between the Assinniboiiie River and Lake Manitobah. The urouiid rises gradually C 4 24 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND from tlie river towards tlie summit of tlie so-calk-d mountain, wliicli appeared about three miles distant, and is thickly covered witli poplar, so thick tliat the forest is nearly impenetrable. The land for a few mili's is rather light, but it then becomes much better, and for the whole way to the Little Saskatchewan or Kiijnd river (the eastern limit, accordinj^ to your letter of instructions, to this line of exploration), Ihi' land may be said to bo ijood sandy loam. In a short report, as tiiis must necessarily be, I cannot fjive descriptions of the different portions into which tliis side of the valley of the Assinniboino may he divided, but taking; it as a whole, I may say, that in fertility of soil, limber, and water power, it surpasses all other parts of the country I have seen. I made several allempt.-" to reach the summit of the mountain, ))articularly that part called the Hiding Mountain, but was baffled each time by the extraordiimry thickness of the wood of yonng poplars, among which there were lying the hall-burnt remain.>» of older trees concealed by the long grass, vetches, eonvolvnii. and iiuunnerable other phmts. 1 cannot p'ss by, however, the valley of the Little Saskatchewan without making a special note of it. We reatiicd it on lllh August, and the next day 1 was able, fortunately, to take observations for latitude, kv., for early in the atternoon the sky iKcame cloudy and a thunder storm camo on; next morning, accompanied by Mr. Ilimc, who has been giving me great assistance in making the survey, I rode on horseback up the valley ; we ciudd only go, however, 15 miles, as the trees and underwood became then so niarvellonsly dense as to make it (piile impassable for horses. The valley is about 80 feet below the general level of the country; the bottom of it is from half a mile to one mile wide, through which the river winds its way, flowing rapidly and uniformly ; it is about forty leet wide, and at this lime was live feet deep. There is no appearance of the valley ever being flooded, the willows which grow along its banks being green and luxuriant down to the ground. 'I'liere are large open flats occurring freipiently on both sides of the river, where the richness of the grass and beauty ol the various flowers prove the great ferlliily of the soil, places marked out by nature to be cultivated and iidiabited by man ; there is abundance of good sized poplar aiul balsam spruce, sutticienily large for building and farming purposis. I followed the course of the valley down to its junction with the valley of the Assinniboine, and for the greater pan of the way it is rich and fcrlije, as is also llie land adjoining. Within a few miles of the Assliniibtiine the eoinilry changes cimsiderably, the soil is unich liglilii-, and the trees fewer and smaller: and at the juiielion of the vallies the coinitry is very poor imleod, being .sandy and gravelly clay, abounding w illi granite Ijonlders of various .'izes. i iclnnicd then by llie same way to the Ir.uk edied "The Lower Koad " from Red Hiver to Fort Elllce, to where il crosses the Lilllo .Saskatchewan, and where I hid left the greater number of my parly. From thence I proceeded by this track to I'orl Kllice, slopping one day at .Shoal Lake in order to make a survey of it; as this track joins the White .Mu : f, l8.")H, ■'.dt ol an exploration of ihe Salt Region tm W innepego-sis the 18th Septend)er (llie d.iy of my deparinre from Red River) 111 Ucloher ;Usl. Accompanied by Mr. Fleming, 1 skirted ihe west coast of Lake Winnipeg in a Ivid River I'reighlei's boat, with a crew of seven men, as far as the mouth of the Lillle Saskatchewan I'.ivir. ( lur pro','ri'«s llirougli the southern half lands ihe exposures are, geologically, of great iuUresl ; bill, wiih ihc exopliou ol sandstone fit for buililiug pniiioses or the manulactnre of grindstones, and of yellow ochre of line (piality, in a silicions limestone rock, no economic materials of parlicniar inteirsl or value were seen. The we is wiioljy I.anivuli.in. 'i'lic l/uiic nlian and fo^.-ililiion? roclis (jftcn iipproaeh one nnollier; but I was nut furtiinate (.'iiuiigli to find (in the last side llie fos^ildlronri looks i'eposin I'l el hi^b on Thunder Lland. so namid in remejnbrance .)f a ihuniler slorin of jireat violence, !ieei m[)auiid by hail and rain, which detaiue 1 us on the alteruijon of Septembvi' "Jisili. St, Martin's Lake is vi ry shallow, ami in many paits thickly set «ith wieds. liy the action ol' ice, lonu; seiui-cijeular accinunlations of boulders have been driven np in i-hallow places, formini^ n el'-, which soon be:;!. Martin's Lake nceives the waters of Parlridyc Crop Kiver, which Hows for the most |iart tlntiu^li a (hit liiui .-tone country, not ten I'eet above the present level of the lake, an, thi'mi!;li which the river meanders. At the tippi r cid of l',Mtridj;e Crop I'liver, ihe Mi^-iiai of l',;irfoid i^ ( stid)lishcil, wheie ] was very hospitably cntc riaimvl by the l!ev. Mr. Sla;;;;. The pie-ent prosp' els of this ,Mi-siou are at (irst sight enconrai^iu;;; but, uheii the nnndier of years durir.;,' which Missiiuiary labour has been directed to the Inilians frei|UentinLC Partridge Cn.p liiver anil the ueighboinini; conniry is considered, perlia|is no more hopeful results amiaiL; adults have bei n oftaiuid than c„n l)e di>oeriied at other stations of bygone re|intiiti(Mi and worn-out resources. We entired Lake .Manitobah on the •JfHh Sc) teinbcr, and fortunately found some fine roek expo>nres on the ca.-.t coast, which will enable me to c.iiiy on the succession of rocks in liiir oiiler <.(' occurrence. .V f w days sailing and pulling brought us to the iii.iuth of Water Hen Uiver, which wo a-ccndcd, ami entered Uater Hen Lake, then p;>.ss!ug on to W Innipego-sis Lake, we arrived ;it the .Salt ."Springs, .about >ix miles north-we-l of Mo-s liiver, on the ."xli Oetolar. We spent two ilays at this place, occupying the tinu' in making a plan of the works and springs, and examiuiog the surrounding country. It may be sunieieiit here to stale in relatiim to the maiin- (iicture of salt, that the method employed is of thi' rnde-t and most primitive de-criplion, never- thelcss the salt obtaiiud is abund.mt in cpiantity and excellent in ipiality. Wells to the depth of (ive feet are smd< near the spot where a little bubbling brine spring is (iinnd. 1 saw several of these springs at some distance from the wells, which, to tlie nnmlur ol twenty six, had already been opened. The- brine is carried in buckets to the ev.iporaling pans, which are of iron, about llvc^ feet long, two feet broad, and lli inches deep, placed on rough stones so ari-anged as to form the sides of a rude fnrmicc below the kettle--. The salt is removed by wooden shovels from the [)ans as fast as it accuuuilate.s, and is stored I'cu' traiisuil-sion to Hcd Uiver without furtl.er pmid- catioll. From each pan ahout t«o liushcls of salt (Ml e.n average can be procured daily duiing the long days of sununer. Wood for fuel is chi-e at band, and of brine an nnliunted cinantily could doubtless be proeuri'd by boring. \Vheii a well doc s m)t yield brine freely enough, anolher is dug near to it : uoiu' of them however arc uiore than (ive or six h'ct deep, and no atlempl at boring or deep-sinking has been u:ade ; the supply of biine being sullieiently aluindant for all present piiri.oses. No rock exiMisines are I'onnd at or near the springs. 'I'he soil in which the wells are dug i- a stiiV yellow clay, very retentive, and holding drift boidders simiiboine. It will be bhowii in my general Report that the salt-bearing rockrt probably extend from near the Saskatchewan to beyond the UUli parallel in a general iKirtb and smith direction, and it is extremely probable that with boring, brine conhl b(,' found in work.ible (piantities over a very extensive area of country in the direction indicated above. I.eavni" the Salt Springs we ascended Moss River, and alter some delay, owing to ilie shallow- ni'ss of llie water aiul the occuireiice of rapids involving portages, wo reached Daiipldn Lake. The el( vation ol this extensive sheet of water above the sea level is about seven liunilred I'let. Iln length may reach twenty-one miles but ilH breadth does not exceed twelve. It reci'ives ;H'veral triliut.u ies' which ri>e in the Duck or in the Riding Mountain, none of them capable of receiving a Irciulitei's boat lor more than seven miles from the Lake. To the west of Dauphin Lake lies tlio imposing range of the Riding Mountain, the nearest point of its sinninit being about seventeen miles distant from the shore of the lake. Nortli-easl of Dauphin Lake is the Duck Mountain, a high range of tabtc-laml similar in its exti'irial aspict to the Riding Mountain. From the imposing appearance which the Riding ^lountidri presents I'rom Dauphin Lake, ami the singular relation it bears to the level niarshy pi, on fiom wliieii it rises, 1 tlionght it would be highly advisable, if possible, to reach the snnnuit. ."Several inlliciilties were urged by the Indians we met against the ascent, chiefly on account of the s»ampv and boggy character of the level coimtry at its foot. 'I'luv slalid that no dilliculiy wiuild be lonnd in passing through the valley between the Riding Alonntaiu ami Duck Mountain by an IndiaTi pitching track. It appeared, however, important that an ascent should be madi' in as direct a line as po-sible frleiii exposure forms the alirupt temiination of a scries of elevaleil table lauds which li-e one abcive another IVnm the seuih and west liv ili-tiiiel ste[is, coinmenciiig williio 10 liiihs of the .\s.-iiiuiboiiic : its bre.idlh i> ciui>ri|iiiiilly about III miles; its altitiid. above Lake Dauphin fully excenls I .OilO feet, which makes it nearly 1,7111) leel above the sea. The whole of its rise abovi' Dauphin Lake is eiiibraccd w ilhiu five and a half miles, but its greatest rise is included within a mile and a half. The cistern cscarpmciit of the Ridim; Moiinlain bears the aspect of an ancient -ea coast, once abrupt, afterw.iriU by atiiio>pherie Inllueiiees rounded, abraded, arid sloped. The last rise is very steeji. showing a dilf bank of drift clav with liiailders, about il.'ilt feet high, termiiialing in a sharp well delined margin at its aumniit, from wbii'h the country slopes very gently westward. Oiilv one rock expo-iire w.is met with during the ascent: this I'cciirriil at an elcvarupu of about 1(10 to tidO li'et above Dauphin Lake, and I wa- at once enabled to identify the furiualion w ili its extension on the Little .Soiiris, the .\ssiiiniboiiie below Fori Lliici', and tiie (^aWppellc lU' (ailing River. It belongs to the Cretaceous group, ai:d, by its prc-ence on the Riding ^I<>lmlain. settles the i|nestioii of tlie occurrence of coal of Carboniferous aL;e between th.s range and the .-oiith liraiich of the Sa-kauhiw.in. The n suit oblained by the ascent of the Riding Moiinlain has bini of great intcresl in a geological Jioint of view, since it has uiiha-ked, in a grc.it nieasiire, the ge.iiogy ol this region of' <'ounlry. Niieb licild eiiiinriices as the Riding and Duck Moiinlain-, upreariiig llieir cistern fl.inks lo an alliliide exciediiig l.tlOO feet above the surrounding coiiiiliy. iialurally gave rise to ui:iny ciinjeclnres iis to tlii'ir origin and eoiiipn-itron. They are probably nnihiiig iiiore than the remains of vast cretaceims and tertiary table laiid~. sireteliing IVnm the Saskatchc«an Valley lo the L.iiireiitide .Moiiulains, wliieh have esiaped deiiud.ilion : and the nnifoim dip of the strata, wherever seen, a|ipe.iis to show that no distiiibance has taken ]ilaee since the Devonian period riie iMi-esi en the suniinil of the Riding .Moiinlain i- vciy line, viiidic.iijujr the sull and climate of Riipeit'> Land fioui the Srticping delr.uiioii- which have been urged agiiiii-t them. I beg to subjoin the cireunilerence, live feet fr.iiii the ground, I'f a few trees wiiliin .'lO yards of our camp on the Riding .Mountain; — .\.s[ieit, 4ft. in., 4 fl 1 in., :) ft. !l in., 5 ft.; white spruce, 7 it, .'i in., ."> ft. (i in., (i fl. (i ill., (i f'l, ; birch, Ii ft. <> in,, -i ft. : poplar, 4 ft, !• in., 4 ft, (! in. These trees represent, as far as observations |iermilted, the general character of ihe forest on the sliniinit plateau ol the Rilling Mountain. During the night of our encampment a snow storm came on, and in the morning six inches of siiiiw wai iicil Hi to hasten to lower and more genial regions. We accomplished the relurii to the boat on Daiipliin Lake on the afternoon of the fourth day; but I regret to say that the constant wading through ice-i old water lor many hours together, in crossing the swamps, disabled two of ilie men, who sullered much [laiii in the head and limbs, until partially relieved by bleeding, vomiting, and w,irm applications, 'I'lie chiiraeler of the region between Manltobah Lake and the Riding Mounliiin ninaiiied to be asci 1 tained, in order to complete a general outline of a lo[iogr;iphieal sketch ol tin- country. W ilh some dilliculiy I prevailed upon an Indian to guide me from Dauphin Lake, in as straight a line as possible, to the II. 15. Co,'s jiosl on Lake .Maniiobah, a distance of"'' miles from our camp. 1 theu SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 27 placed the bont in clinrgo of Mr. I'li'min;;, instriictinfr him to meet mo nt tlie Mniiitohaii jiont iih i-cioii 08 possible. Witii n hiilt'-brecd, luid an Iiuiina ns piiiile, I proceeded aeroBs tlie coinitry, Coi timiiicly without knowing its ciiaracter iielbiehand, or I ^honhl Hcarcely have ventured on such u liitigiiinj; journey at so late a season of ihc year. I'or tliirly miK's we liad to wade tliroiijfh niai»hcs and boi;ti, Beparaled by low riilnes ; in liiet the distance named may bo said to be made tip of maish, l)o;r, rid;{e, marsh, boff, riilgc, in most wearisome Hiiccession. We liad horses to carry our provisions and bedtlin;^, but till' lioffrt were so bad that, in order to jjet tlic liorses lhrouj{h them, we were Compelled to earry the load ourselves. A thin crnst ol ice, a quarter of an inch thick, was formed over tlieir snrliice tlie ni<;hl aller our start, whieli aihled in no slight degree to the fatigue of tlie jouiney. Upon our arrival at the post 1 was very hospitably received by .Mr. iMcKeiizic, the genth'mnn in charge. The greater part of the country -lying between Manitobali Lake and JJauphin l.ake, l)etwien Dauphin Lake and the Hiding Mountain, and between the southern j)art of Wiiniipego-sis L:ike and the Duck Mountain, may he (Minsidered as having recently emerged from die furmer cMen- sionoftlie lakes fir>l II. imed. Ibis emergence has re<.uJtecl probably Irom the lowering of waiers of the hikes by drainage, and not by a rising of the l.md. The Little .Sii..k:itclic«an is not the only outlet Iroiii .Maiiitnb.di Lake inlo Lake VViniiipeg; and belori> llnse ouileis were erodrd to their present depth, the waters in Lakes Daiiphin and Manitobali were evidently about 10 or I.") feet aliove their present level. This is shown by the loHc-t btacli round Lake Dauphin, which, on the west side, is weH^]ires(rvetniit frum the present shores, lietween Dauphin Lake and Lake .^Llllitobah, the ancient coast of the latter, for a Imig period of time, is about 'JO miles due west from ilie II. 1(. Co.'s post, and it follows the shores of the lake until lo.st in the fieneral rise of the ]iiaiiie mar White .Mild liiver. I (ind the impres-ion privailini; among Indians and half-liri'eds familiar with the general oiiiline of this region of couiiiry, tliiit the lakes are fa^l lowering their level, and although they iijjree in the jiopiilar erior of siippns ng lierc. as elsewlieie. that there is a rii.e and fall every seven yi'ars, yet the fall is lonsiiiered lo be greater than the rise. If the drainage of niiiny thciusaiid s(piiire inile.s of swamp and marsh In tins jiait cil'ilic iiinolry >li(iiild ever heeoiiie a (pie-lioii of n.ilioiial interest, I know of no eiiterpri/.e of ihe kind which could be exeeulecl with so little cost of lime or labour, and promise at the same line' such wide spread heiK li( ial resiilLs. ('omnuneing about L) or "JO miles south ot my track, as shown on the map which iicoompanieH this report, the couiitiy is rcpiiseiited to be dry, and lo cont.iin large areas of land fit lor a;.;rieiilliiral pnrpo-e-. This .-taieuieiit, received tVoin pcisons familiar with its general character, is partly coii- lirined by llie ob-ervatioiis we "ere able to make when on White Mud llivei-, in September. Our coor>e will he seen lli CKtolier, while awailiiii; .Mr. I'leiiiing's arrival, 1 was emphnid in e.xaiiiiuiiii; llie coniitry in the iiei<;lil)iiurlio(id of the .Manilobidi pest, and as fir as .Maiiitoliah Llniiil, from which the lake lakes its iiiime I spent four days on this i>land, which has a('i|iiiii'd celeliiily from the ^upei-tiliou~ belief ot the Indians, ilial it is the abode of a kind of • Munitou ' or furies. Jjiim-toiie IS here ixposiil in clilf-. !.'> fict high, on the norili side ; it contains liut few lo-siN. is cxlreinc'lv hard and |iiiMlme», " hen struck with a baiiimer, a dislinel ring, so that when the waves biat on the si, ore, and -.trike on tlie -liiiigli' at the base nf the diil', a loud musical sound, not unlike the ringing of a laige nuiuher of (listanl eliuieh liell>, is pioduced. Limestone, of a very eiiiii|iact and line gi.iimil de-cnplion, occurs in ma>»ive layers n h'W feel from the u'ronud ; many simill pieces, well ailapteil lor lilhogiaphic |iiirpi)ses. c;iii be pvueured. but I fear, in an econoinic point of view, llie value of llie lock as a Minree of litliograpliic >toiie. in hoi^e >lali'-, is iiicoiisider.ib:e, on aeeoniil of the occurrence of the liiinis of slielU which have been replaced by crystalline carbonale of lime, of a Boller desci ipt.oii than the matrix. I'liim Maniloliali post »<■ proceeded by the east coast of Lake Mnilitobah lo Oak I'oiiil, where wc cMlianged ciur boat lor horses and cuts, anil started for Ked Kiver. rid .Slioal Lake, where we arrived on the ;i|s| October. Oil the l(S|li Deceinbir Mr. Dickin-oii j-cl out to explore the connliy between the .Xssinniboiiie and the 4!>lli parallel, in accordance wiih iiistrnctions. of ivhicha copy i^ herewith llan^mitted I heg to refer yon to Mr. DickiiisiiMs nport liir an aceoimt of the re>nlls of his exploration. The exami- nation of the coiinliy east of Kid Kiver was undertaken with a view lo place ymi in posse.-sion ol r. gumnier reconnaissanie of thai iinpoitanl districi ; Mr. Dawson's exploration having been made during the wiiiler months, when the sHiiuips and bogs wi'ie frozen. The map which aceompanies this re])orl is based upon Thompson's map, with such alterations as the time at our disposal enables u« lo make. It is only intended lo illuslrate, for the present, the general leatmes of the country, as well a> lo --how our several tracts and the area Uaversed 11. e dotted red line indicalis ihe general direcliiiii of the tracks followed ; but the traverses made iVinii lime to lime are not rcpre.-ented ; these, willi the soiindings^ — ( upwards of ."l.")!! by the lead J — are necessarily reservi'd for the (ieneral Keport, and its accompanying maps and charts. Mr. I lime occiiiiied the period of his slay on Ked liiver in executing a number of ]iliotogiaplis of sceniry, elinrehes. buildings, Indians, ,Vc., which will form an interesting collection. I am glail lo be able lo stale, that during this last cxplornlion, as in the summer cxjiedilion to the south branch of the .Saskatchewan, no accident or untoward event of any description has oecinreil to interfere with onr progress or lessen its results. Ill inspectiiig ihe accoinpauying inn|), I beg to refer you to the one which accompanies the re|iort dated Sepleinber lOtli, from which the connexion between the two explorations will be apparent. Hon. r. .1. .1. Lor.iiiirer, M.IM'., I h„ve, &c. rrovin.ial .Secielary, (Signed) IlKNIO' Y. HIM). &c. M;c. Jkc. D 2 2S HKl'OirrS OF TUK ASSIXNinOINK AND it . 1 i< I Dkaii ISiit, Hcd Hivi-r Sclllonu'iil, Sopti'iiibpr K!, IH.")8. Oni: of llio iillciri'il (liiiwl)iick-i to tilt' Hcttli'iiii'iit of tlir valley iil' Itcil llivi'i- anil tin- Ait, we IrpqiUMitly ciiw iiii ixii iiuivi' linvst, stii'tfliiiii; I'or iiiniiy iiiil('.< in a M)ntlirrly direction, on llic rit^lit or ^ioutll Imnk of the river. It ia very ilesinvble timt lli'o lialnre and extent ol' tlie forest xlioidd be detirinined, and tlie eliaraclir of tlie tiinbor coniposinj,' it a^eei taiiu'tl. As mxhi, tberclore, ns you eaii roniplete your preparation.-!, I Wdiilil wisli yon to doler- inine llie limits or boundaries of the fore-t referred lo, anil by makinj; fre(pient traverses or intir- soelion.-, a-cerlnin llie jjeneral cliaraeter of il^ timber. Art far iXi is (•oll^i^lent with the .safety of your p.irty, yon >vill also examine the eouiilry belween the A-siiiiiil)oiiie Hiver and the 4!»th par.dlel, Hent ol Ited Kiver, and if time permits, the uonntry east of Hed Uiver, and between (itrnian I .'ek and the 4!>tli parallel, •las. A. Diekinsoii. Ks(| , I am, \e. &e. ile. t^e. (SiS"f<') H. V. lllNl). No. VII. — Tin: CoiMiiY lv\si .wn Wi sr ov riii; Urn llivr.a, Xoiirii of iiir; lOrii l*.\ini,i,i;i,. J)i:.\ii Sill, lied Kiver Settlement, N'ovMiiber "J, iM.iS. In aecordanee «idi your letter of instriielions, dated .September Kith, 1 proceeded with my ])arty, on the iMlh, to e.vainiiu' those various portions of ilio coiuiliy therein .-peedied. As llie country east of Ui'il lliv.r — e.Melldinir to the Lake ol tlie Woods is (piite Ulikliowii, except for a i'vv, miles back from the river, lo any hut to lliose Indians who have there their liiintinjr grounds, I was anxious lo procure one of them as a guide. Jlavinuj Micciiiled in doin;; so after some lilllo delay. 1 was oblij;cd loexniuiue lliis part ol tlie coiinlry (irst, as the Indian jjiiiilc was iihout to leave the selllemeiit in a lew (hiy> fur his winter (piartcrs, and if 1 hud not .'Pcurcd his services imniedialely, would have tailed in iIoiiil; so afterwarils. C'onsiilcriiii; llial one of the ohjeels of this exploration should be that ofseeiiiLj where a.iiinimer iiblc. the wide marshes linnngh which it |i.'isse3. 'i'iie next (lay 1 eoutiiiued in the same diiiction, and having ri'aehed a Jioint oppo.-ile the '2:'.d inile-po-l, on the picket-line, I could go no I'nrllier, being' slopped by a swamp or (piai,'mire. Impa-sable for hor.-es. or i veil men. exieiidiiig in fruiit liir many miles, and on botli >idis as fir as the eye could icicli. '1 bough lakiiigadvaiilage of all tin- dry placis within reach, 10 I'liles of the coui>e I look lay thioiigh mar~li and wel laiiil, and livi' miles at ha^t throngh swamp. There are a few small clumps ot yiaiiig aspi ns along the line, and low willows in some of the niiirslies; bul fir away towards llie iiorih iii.iy be seen some clumps of larger tree.s. 'l"lie land is, liir the most pari, a rich loam, wiili a snb-suil of sandy clay ; but the dillicully, or rather llie iiii|ii)-sihility of draining the numerous swamps and marshes, and the want of limber, 1 ender this tract of eoiiniry unlit lor settlement ; and for the >aiiie reasons, the dilKcnlly of coiislrucling a suit ihle road ihidugh it would be very considerable, and the eNpen^e.s enormous. .luilgiiig, then, thill I had .Svcn enmigli of tins part of the coaiiliy for my |inrposes, I reliiiced my .steps to the selthiiieiit; Iroin which 1 eel out again, under the guidance of the Indian, who promixil lo conduct me by the only thy palli towards the Lake of the Wu.itln, as far as the bonnilary of his biiiilie.g grounds. On the morning of the 'JJld, 1 proceeded alone the fcoutli siile of '• la Itivii'it' .Seine,'' or (ierinan Creek, which Mow.-, into the Ked Itivi r a lillh- below its Jiinetioii willi the As.-inniboine. • 'I'liere are farm houses and a g I road along il for a tli>taiice of live miles, when the Indian's track then begins, which keeps close to the v.uley ( I' the Creek for eight mile-, belwtfu il aiitl the mar?li, which is shown on the map. 'I'lil.s dry space vaiiis from half a mile to a i)iiarter mile wide, crt)».~til by two small sliiggli-^h creeks, which if widened and ilee|ieiie(l wcnihl ell'tctiially dmiii llie marsh, 'i'liere is plenty of gocid limb«-r along ihe valley, con-isling of poplar-, elm, and black a-li, with small oaks. Leaving ihelierman Creek here (ill tair hl'l, Wf wi'iu along a low ridge about ont^ loot above the level of iht! marsh, and varying in w idtli frtiin ."lO to MO yards ; il run-- in a soiilli-easterly tlireetiou for about three miles, ami tlieii widens out on i\u'. left as far a.o I coiiltt .-ee, and on llie rlulit to half a mile. At this point we Were about ihrce niilt's from Cieiiiian Creek, which we lose sight of now for isoine time. Con- tinuing in the s.ime direction for three miles nioie, through heaiitifid rich grass, with cliiin|)s of aspena on the left and high willows on the riglil, we came lo a creek cailetl Oak Creek, wliieli i.s iibouL two t;liaiii-^ wide, bul -o slill and sluggi-h ihat il raiher rtsciubles a Imig lake. Our course then lay along it iieail, due t a-.t fta' iwti anil a half miles, whtn the creek then turns to the south. 'l'lii,s woiihl be an admirable place fur a selilenunl, the hind being as rich as any in tlit- whole coiinlry, and there being a large sii[iply of oak, averaging I fo.it <> inches in diameter, and [loplar.-v suitable for fencing. Oil llie soiilli silk- of Oak Creek the open praiiiestn tclies away to the horizon, the greater part of tliat which was wiiliin view being dry, there bi.ing only u few patches of wet hiiul. Leaving Oak Creek U SASKATCIIKWAN KXPLORIN(} KXPEDITION. 99 wv went lliioiijtli a tomilry of tlili clmriu'tor for nhoiit iiiiio inllos in ii Hi)iilli-i'ft--lcrly (liicfllon, our truck vviiidiii^, liowi'vcr, ii lltllo to avoid tlii' wfi jiiacc.'', a lew of wliicli wc liail to croj.t; none of llicni, howi'vci', lii'in).; more tliini nevon oi" cij^lit cliiiins wide, and la^y ol croasiii{{. 'J licit! arc niiiiicroiis (.■liMnpa III' siiinli aspens and willows in evi ry lliiictinn We llicn iii'dcecded nearly due ca»t lor aliollt aeven niileti, (icriniin Cicck being IVuni oiiu and u liall to two miles iiii llie north, a lieantil'iil and rich prairie iyiti); lielwecn ns and it, and nn the Honlh one mile distant riiiH a well-wooiied riih'i', parallel with (lur uniirso ; then liuiiin;^ to the south-east we wimnd rmnid niimenms liirgu ele ifaspeii from live to ;)(l leet hi'.;li, and willows for hoviii miles, when we c.inie to a risinj; groun. densely eiiveied with younj; nspeii and lalleii limlier that it w.is impossible for ciirts to go further; we there- fore hit tliem here and mule pai.'ks of a few tilings for the hor.-es to cany. Mere the land becomes of a ligliler description, being of a'light sandy and ihiy lonm. 'I'lie timber lins been all hnrnt, the gionnil w.iM so ihieldy strewed with the fallen loi;< that it was willi miieli dillicnlty the hor-es could Iravi'l. Two miles fiirllier on we came to the banks of (leiinan (reek; its valley here is from IT) to 'JO chains wide, and abont -to feel deep: it is lull of cNcellent tiiiibcr, elm, oak, poplar, and l)laek ash, all large enough for building purposes. The creek, which is hire very rapiil, is :]i) feet wide and alioiit I fiicit (i inches deep. We follow its cnnr,-e now for '.'" miles, neve r being more than half a mile away from it. 'i'lie cnmitry through wlii<'h we p:is>ed is for the iiinst part covered with trees of varions kinds, growing in large einmps, liaNiiin poplar, aspen, laniaiaik, biiUim sprnce, own eonntry anil could not biing me fnrllier: and though I tried lo induce him by every mc.ins, he remained lirm to his re.-olnlion, lie was unwilling for somi' lime even lo give me a descriplion of the eoiinlry beyond; but linally I procured from bim the following aeeonnl : — At half a (lay's journey on snow shoes, or a distance of l."i miles I'rom where we were, there is a moinilain or ridge thickly covered with trees stretching towards ihe Lake of the Woods. A part of this inli'iveiiiiig space is a swamp in which grow liimaraek, cedar, iniil spruce; ihe remainder is drv grounil covered w ilh small nspciis iind willow^. Passing along the " moniitnin you come to a niarsii wliieli extends lo llie '• Lake of llie Woods ;" but through it tlicle llow.s a liver, lip which largo canoes could coiiu' within the hearing of a gun-shot, c.i- about iwii miles from the monnlain. 'llie entire I'liglh of lliew;iy 1 had coiir' w.is 70 miles ; Ci') miles at le ist of this dislaiice biiiig (it for settlement, and thronghoiit the whole of it a road eoidd be made without the slightest dilKcnlty and at liltle co-t. If lime and means had permille.l, 1 would have pn-lied ihliiiigh lo llii! lake, but under the ciieiimstancea I con-iilered it bclier not lo alleiupt il. From the desciiptioii given by llie Indians of the coimlry. and which I lliink may be relied on as correct, I am of the opiiiu>i\ that a ro.id can lie easily made lliroiii^h il. I reliiriied by Ihe .siine track as I came by liir •-onie dislaiice, when I ciossed (ierniaii Creik, at a place aboni !)."> milts I'nan its moii h, and llien conliinied along Ihe north side of it. At this crossing place iheie are Iwo or tlnee liou-es, the eommi iieemeiit td a settlement H liich ia likely lo be c|i|ickly cMendeil. (Jii tlie Isi of Dclolicr I set init M'jaiii lo examine the counliy belwecii llie ,\ssinnibt)iiie and tho •lOtli parallel ; and more parlicnl.uly the forot which was sai I to extend for mi many miles to the sonlh from ihe river al I'raiiie I'ortago. I'rociidiiig along the roatl lo Si. I'aul, I lurnul oil' I'rom il where il eiosscs '• l,a Hiviire .Sali$ '' (or Slinking Uivii), and went by the Imiileis' ir.ick on the soiilli side of the river, along which it goes for .'10 miles, i iilling across the large bends of the valley, which is very winiliiig, and lliroiigh which the river me.tiuler^ in a remarkable manner. 'Ihe coiinliy lying hehveeii il antl the .\.-sinuiboiiie is very miirsh\, ami is covered with willows and cliim|is of sMiall aspi n. In the valley and along bolli sides grow oak and elm and some line ash, many trcis two feet in diameter — they ixlend the whole way lip the river. On the south side there is a pr.iirie apparently as level and bonnille.-s as ihe ocean ; the grass tni il is most beautiful and luxuriant, iiitlicaling tlu' rit liness of ihe soil. riie valley is .ibont -JO cbnins wide and 10 feel deep; there are many salt springs in it, which make the water in ihe river ipiite braekisli, from which it tit rivis the name. 'Ihe river higher up opens oiil into small l.ikt >, and rises I'rom a m ir-li which is very eMensive. The tiMck here joins the liuntei's' Hack I'rtmi the NVIiile liorse I'iain; il linns in the south, in which tliretlion il goes for about I'J miles «hene • imniiig nearly due -oulli for l'> miles, ii erossis •• I.a Itiviere ties 1-les de Hois," a river I'l leel witle ami two deep, llowiiig inio llie ."^eralcli'iig Uiver. 'i'his [lorlitai of tho country is all a level prairie, the greattr [rirt of it being »it and marshy, except near this river, where it is (|uite thy for live miles ; ihe land is a rich sandy loam, yielding mo>l luxuriant grass. On holli sides of the river lliere i-i a skirling of In es, ehii lly oak, averaging I fl din. ill 'iiamclcr. 'Ihe hiilhdo-hiinters, when they have cros.-ed this little river, begin to keep a ^liarp look-out for ihe Sioux, and lo take their usual precaniions. The track eimtinning in the same direction crossi s a prairie "JO miles wide. 'I his priiirie is of light sandy soil, witli clumps ol' aspen ami willows growing here and lliere; it is interseeletl by many small valleys, in all of which, wiili one exception, llie ereek> llial rirnied ilieni me now tirietl up. The valley of "J.a h'ivit'iv Tiihac " is seven cliains wide ami 'JO feel tleep ; there was but very lillle water at lliis time in the eiei k, but in spring time there is a lapitl llow. The prairie on the south ami west is boiimleil by what is generally callt tl llie '• I'einbina Monnlain," which is rather a aeries of steps rising up from the pr.iirie below to one iibove. There are three steps from "JO lo •J.'i feet high, together with a graiUial aaeenl for two milts; the whole of ii is ihieklv strewn wilh boulders of gr.inite. 1 lii.s '■ ^loimlain," which consists of clav, gravel, autl saiul. niiis U 3 80 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND h i in a uoiith-eniiterly iliri'ction, from n litllo atxnf IViiiriu I'oriHUi- to Pi'mbinu. VVhui-r v/c rroMcd it tlicro is no tliiilur, Ixit on liolli didt'i it in wrll i-ovrrod, piirticiiluily uii ihr houiIi, wUvtv tlu' tici'H mH'iiii'il \i\rfSf mill good, lli'ii' tlii' I'dri'iil n vaid lo l)cgiii uliiili riNuiu'ii tn ilic A»»imiiliiiiiK', liiit with till' I'xct'pliiiii III' hciiiu' oak cm tiu' iiioiiiiliiiii, lliirt- U iiii ^iiod tiinlxr, nolhiiig but young nitpi'ii iVoiii 'JO lo .')0 I'li't liijili, ^ni»i:i;{ vi'ry ilox* to^t'tlii'i', liiniiing ii di'iiso tliickcl. On rii»'liiiif{ till' Biiinniil ol' llic " Mountain,' tin' liaik tuin» to llio wivl a( toih ii prairie railed " tlic round ]ii'airii','' wliii'li i-. peil'fi'lly l('\< I and uprii lin' f\\ iiiilci : im llie nortli and .^oiitli it in bunndcd by >vood< of puplaix. Oil lis \M'ril i^t a rich sandy loam. 'I'his piirt of the eomilry i-, (|nile denLiiute of water; tin re me iio ereeks, ,ind the pmnls whii ii are said to be j;eneially full of wiiter "ere now quite dry ; from I'J o'eloek one day to two o'elock the next, we eoiild find none. Ilei" eominenres the hilly ilislrii't; it* hi){liest hilU, whieh can he seen so well (Voiii the hanks of the .\«sinuilioiiie. are ealled the " IJIiie Hills." 'I'lie jjeneral direction ol its eastern boiiialary i» nearly S.W. l>y N.K. The track now turns towards the north-wesl. The oountry il iiivcrses fur l-'J miles may be ileserilieci f^eiierally lo be an iindulatini; or rolling prairie, studded with nuineicMis eonieal and dome-shaped hills, from .')0 to IM feel hi^li, Home eovered wiili willows and iispc ns, and some (|nile ban . 'I'liey are all eoinposed of siiiid and gravel mixed with .lay, and having on their Hanks ni.iny granite boiildeiH. Itiiiining p;ii',ilitl with our Hack lor .some miles is u valley, 10 eliains wide and W feet deep, called '•La (iiancle ( 'oulcie,' in w hieli ihere in no walcTi and \\r ero.^sed many Hiualler ones, also dry, loiineetiiig with il. Here 1 lefl the track, and went in a northerly dircetioii to the thick poplar wciods the ■' I.e (irand '■ Hois,'" of llie rrench half hue i(>, which seemed kix or hcvcii miles away, but on m riviiii,' the ii^ I found it to con^i^t cady of large rluinps cil a-pc nii and poplar.s, which at a distance looked like a dense and ecnilinuon« himhI. as il is i-oniincnily supposed lo be by the hiinalo hunters, '{he tress, thon^'h high, duly average alxjul nine inclies in diameter. I made seveial traverses bcrcMlicnil-. and linind that at distances from one to three miles back from the ojieu prairie, the wood heeinnes densely liiick. (|uile iinpenelrable in many places. 'J'lie trees lire all sniall. iimie greater t!ian mie font in diameK'r; they are of the poplar spceie windings llirongh the liilU, still going to the norlh-wi si '1 here are herc> many isolated lulls, as well an c liaiiis ol hills running in every clireclioli. Tlie low yrouud is generally marshy, through which geiilly llow 8( i eral sniall creeks, all einiilyiiig ihcinselves iiilo a Mic.iin on our lelt, which we enws seven miles lurtlier cm. This >lieam is six Ici I w ide ami two feel deep : il llow?, in a valley ."lO teet deep, and alioet l"J , hains wide. The grouncl heie is mi;eh covered willi gr.mile liiiuhler^ and rra^'ineiits ol il' i'. Observing iliis bidkeii -hale tliroiii.diont the whole itf ine hilly dislrid lo lie lying a>icint in ivcrv direclioii on ihe snrlace and I'lieii turned up by ihe hailgers, 1 searclieil on the inll-sides and along the valleys liir solid rock but could lind noiu\ 1 >nppose it to be, thcreline. bom its ^ilnllarlly in a|ipeaniiicc. drift b iiin llic> rocks on the l.illle ."souri- and other place-, towards tlic' iioilli where it vsas I'diind to e\i-l. The eoniilry now beccanes more hilly than belcnc. and i- ci]m|)!elcly eovi>recl with low willdw>: ciaks. and popliirs. single' and in elninp.-, grow pleiitilVelly on all sides. 'J'here are several small lakes, on some of wliieli wcri! large (locks ol' while swan-. Th.' main woods on the right are here from five to -ix inile.s cli»tanl. This whole reyiiMi was once eipon a lime an extensive fore.-t of oak, lc)r evervwhcre ihc' remains of them are lo be foiind. On the hit there are large clumps of lialsaiu poplar, I'drniing for several miles almost a conlinnous lenesi. We ero-sed another of those valleys here so nnineidiis, ealled " I.e (irand t'ouh' de la (irosse Unite, deriving ils name I'roin a large eonieal hill about '.'OO feel high. The valley varies in widih Iroin 'JO to MO chains, ami in ahoiit Wt feel deep, but apjiearing much deeper in many iilaces by reason of the liilU adjoining it. The sides ;we very pveoipilions and the bottoiii is ipiile level and all covcrcnl with bcaiilifnl graos ; there is no creek llowing threnigli il, or even the appearance of any recent one. Two miles up in it toward the north there is a :-inall lake iiiid another vallev branching olf Irom it, which we c'lOj-ed lejiir miles fnrlhor on: in it there is a small creek ."(ix feet wide, and one Tool six inches deep. The track liirniiig to the iinrtli soon comes close to " Lc (irand Conic! de la (irosse Ibitte," and (Minliniies along il lor nine miles. The scenery is now very wild and beaillilnl ; the valley, ihe bolloin of whieh is ISO I'eet below the general level uf the country, cuts through ranges of liills, many oliliein l."»Oleet high, and winds rouiiil the bases cdDlhers, some bare and riiKueil and some covercel wilh poplarK. Tliere arc- many lakes ol various sizes, which add considerably to the |)iclurescpie beauty of this ))eciiliar region, the liivonrile haunt of the moose and red deer. Travelliim on for (ive miies mcu'e we reach the top of a hill, when suddenly buisls on our view a vast nndnlating ])raiiie stretching away to the Assinnibuine and Little Souri.s. The track, which liad been vei • faint lor some time, here becaine (]uite invisible. It was thonghl advi«al)le therefore to return to where another cnie had been seen branching olf, some six or seven miles back. Having regained il we- followed it for 18 miles, still among the " HIne Hills," erossiiig the low ndges and windings ihroiigh the valleys helwcen the high hills, seveial of them .'!i)0 feet high, and around us were many pretty lakes: we tlieii came upon the open prairie SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITJOK, 9 From {\\U ncTin* to iho AKainnibnno \n III inilci. The iirah'ic i* lliickly iiiroit wcr with loo williiwx, iiii'l li ■•w;iiu|iy in iiiiiny iiIiicch; tlirrc lui' liiit ii lew ('.Iiiiii(im oI' yniiiig nii|M'i •<• relieve it biriik mill (Irnin iihiiccI. 'I til' viilli y III' till' AHuiimilmiiii' wlicn- we (M'uhhciI it, 40 inili'it nbovi' Priiiiiu I'ui'tiiKO, in iiboiit om.' mill' anil a i|iiarlcr wiilc; its '■Idc-i ai-r iniirli lirokcn anil liiilt'iilcil, 'I'lii' |iii|ilarA ami iiak<, nlwliii-li it is riill. arc nil yiiiiii^, none cxct'i'ilni;; iti tVct in hci^lit, iiiiil tiiero nrc nil iii'in nl' any kinil alniii; I'illier hIiIc lor many inilt'r<, 'llu* river is nt lliis point II) eliain» wide nnil ibrei' lent deep, ami lia'< a liard, gravelly Imttnni, ^ii lliat »e forded it very easily. On llie north mIiIi' (if till' river are llie Sand IlilU. lliroiiu'li uliidi we pa*. CON T V. N T S. Itnlil III iti'ill^li r<>liiiiililii will iiKJiiri' i'iiil;;i'iitii>ii. mill rii'iili' riiiiiiiii ri'iiil iirlivily ill lliiil Ciplniiy. 'I'lli' VllllrV of till' Sll.'-klltl'lll'WIIII will I lillli' UN I'llli- ;jriiii( iMii'l-riiiilr In Itrit i^li ( 'oliiiiiliiti --.Viiirrii'iiii tiiliowiii^', iiIkI iH'eiiiiiiii;,' |i> I'mIImw, iIimi riiiili'. riiiiiii' Mtli'iiliiiii iliii'i'li'il III I. like \Viiiiii|M'^' mill llii' .NiM'lli I'lrmirli lit' (III- Sji>kiiti'lii'\\ ;iii, ii> a Slriiiii- I'u.'ii Uiiiili' Oiii' ri'-iill III' till' I'MiiiKliiiii l'!\|iliiriii;,' l''.\|ir llir Siilllll I'lrmii'll nl' llli' S.'l-klllrlll'- u ;iii, .S'l'H iMlilltrl'l ll|ili'rri|ilinii nl' — Illii~ellla(l"' wilh llie Snlllll Itlllliell allil llie .\.-'illllilinilll'. Work lei|llileil 111 lie lli'i'nlll|ili>lli'il tii -I'llil (lie Wlllel's nt' (lie Sntitli Itrmieh 111' tile Sa^kiid'liewati ilnwii (lie IJii'Apiu'lli' Valley, pa-l full liiiny. l^iiWlipi'lle l.iikei — Cliiinii'ti'r nt' — Depth — .Vliniinil ill li'-li. Ilciw till' !l liiij; iif (lie .V^siiiiiiliiiiiie ami Iteil Hlver i- In lie avniileil iliiriiig Sprlii;; Ire-liets. ( liaiaeler nf the ('nimiiy ilrnliieil liy the Smith Iti'aiirh — t 'liiiiale nf the .Sniiih liraiieli. Ureal iiihaiila^e In lie ileriveil I'lniii llie pi'npnseil rniile — l)i-(illli'i' sllnrd'lleil KM) mile — -Uiillti' llllill- (eri'll|ileil I'l I Weil Itivi'l' (n (he l'nii( nl' (lie lincky Miiiiiilain^. Sea-nil III' Navi^'iKiiui eMeiiili'il ei^lil (n leii weeks. I'Miie Kiiniiin;.' I'niiiili'y npeiieil lip — Iti'-l I'lii.. ill (he lfiii'k\ .Mniiiiliiin- a|ipi'narlii'il — • I )aii:;eiiiiis ami C'ireuilnii- Niivi^iaiinii nl' l.aki' Winnipeg,' a\nlileil — (iriiml Kapiil- -iiniiniiiileil — Cnal Kails nser- enllle. I'li-lal ('iiiniiiiiiiiealinii alniif; the pi'ii|in-eil rniKe — ('(iilii"' nl' l'n|iiilalinn — 'I'lii' Siiiiih llniiii'li will lieeniiie (he l'',inl::raiit roiite — .liiipnrliiiii'i' nf the I'lininiiiiiiiatinii I'lnin [.ake Siiperinr, rii) South Itraiieh, In llie I'ai'ille. Slit, Toronto. i'Vljiiiary ;l, 18j9. I M.NruiiK to submit the following notice of the Qu'Appelle Hiver, in anticipation of a inorij detailed deM;ripiioii, which will be I'lirni.slied in my Oeueral lU'iiort. [ have, >V . The lion. C. .Uleyii, M.IM'., (Si^r„ed) IIKN'IU' V. HIND. IVovincial .Secrelarv, &c. Sic. &c. 1. The discoveries of gold in liritish Coliimhia have invested with groat interest the facilities for eouiinunicatiou which exist between the Atlantic and Pucitic (Seaboard, north of the -lOtli parallel. D 4 3'J IIKPOIITS or TFir, ASSINNinoFNK AND |M ll (iiilil (III llic I'ac'iltc xliijit' dl' ilio lliii'kv Moiiiiliiiiiii, within Idititli li'iril' "v, will in'iilnilily iiiiluco ii lui'^v riiii'^ialiiiii III iliat i|imi'l('r, ami •'jifcdily ci'iiilc ^reat ('oiiiiiu'rcliil ari iiy. '.'. '1 lji' v,illi'_\ III' lilt' Mi'xii-iliiu III in;;' ■ |i aalr I 1111111 llii' Inn lli in I'.n ilir ttri iliM li x iif llii' I'liilcil NtiiU"< l>y an rxtciiHlvL' iv^iini |>ii'-1i>i:ii livi. iiiilijir niicniiini in llii' niii'lli-Hcvilii'ii Sl.i|pi< dl' llii' (niiiii niiil In Caiiaihi has liicn iliricli'ii in |lii> vallry nl' thd Saikal- clu'wan. ami ihc Iratililliix III ('ni|iliiMMj{ It at a hiik in a ({rrat ilialn nl' Kinniiniiiraliiiii liilwicii (lie Mi:^M>li a niininiinicittinn liiiwrrii it iiikI l.aki' Siipi rini, whirli, I'm' ciiiniiii'irial |)in'|iiiir^, is in I'lIi'Ct llir ".ainc nl lln' Si. I.awi'riicc nr Alliinlii'. 'riici'c I'lliiiis «ill innlMilily ni'iivr li (licit iin|iilni< now ili.ii till' iliicnvi rii -I dl' Miilil in llnli-li ( 'iiiiiniliia iii'i' (■nnlliinr.l ; wliili' ilic ui'i'il iiviT wliicli llii' |in'riiiin int'liil is known In In' ilislrilinli il iiiiil. In lin' iiirriiiici' lliiil ili* ■n'cin I'llii'" ill qiiiiiitily aiillii'ii'iit til crc.iti' a powi iliil I'.icilii' colony, willi gicat ra|iiillly, ii« im lon;{ci' a mailer nl' tioiibt. ' ■I. Uiniiii; till' ii.'i-t siinnm r, when n liirniii^ frnin the Sniiih Itiancli, I iiict M'Vcral |iiii"ii"* nl' Aiiiiiioan ciiii;;ianti, who Hire |iioci c'liinj; to I'la-cr's llivi i' c/i/' (\iiliiin liiiii>c ami ihc Noiili jliancli (if the Sa^kiili'licwan. One parlv w:h well rnmi-heil ami ('i|nl|>|ieii liy an iiilliieinial eoin|iany at St. I'.iiil, wlinse oliiecl> ami |ii'.i,'eiilin;;H hiVc liecn |iiilili--hc(l in |inii|iliiil liinii. Soiii" of the cmifjianls ni'i' winli rill;; at licil Itivci' Siilli iiu lit, |iiir|ioi|iriii},' In I'ollow ill tin' ti'.ick of tin' jaitv I met. (Hill I - ari' miw (ii|; mi/in;; in the norlli-wesli in Sinte-, to jonriiev ti llie " .Mines" hy the siine runic. It i- ii|i|Mri'nt ihat a slrnii,' ell'ort will he maile In e>l ililish 11 Sinth-w (",,-l,al cliewan in the one ailo|ileil. ."). Ill ihe |iids|ieelns dl' the ( '.iiiaili in Nnrlli-ui-l 'i'r.iii-|iorl,iliiiii l'din|iany llie line nl i-te.in eowi- nnnrualion |ir(i[io»e(l is |lii'diii;li Lake Wiiiiii|ii';; ami the Norlli Hraiieh df the .'■•asli iielieH.ni, Like \\ iliiii|ie;.' is now |iro|idi'il In he ;;.iiiieillroiii I akc .*sn|Kriol' hy takiii;.; ailvaiila;{e nl' the liiivijjalile I'Caclit - of w.ilii (III I )o^r I.aKi', .MHio l.aes, llaiiiy I.:ike, U.iiiiy liivei', ami the I like nl' the W iiiiilii, nitli iiilei'Veniii;^ rnailn ami |H>rta;{es. .\s the coiiiiliy tliioii^ii which this rniite jiiiHses I-, an iiiliii-|iit- ulile legion, willi lew iirc.i-. Iil lor ciillivatidlt, as lar as the wij^l ^iile nl' the Lake ol' liie Wooil-, ihe iirojio-ril ciiiiiniiinieiitioii will |iioliahly mil lu open lor r:f|ii(l liaii diill.iy i.s inciiri'eil. lor a |ieridil ol se\ci,il yeai.-<. I'; lo the il.ite ol' my ilcpai tiiri rrom Iviil IiImt hint year, no ciiinmiiiiicalion hail hceii i H'l'clcd, in xwwwc //'/»i', hetweeii the si'lilineiils nml llii' Lake of the Wooils, I'.Nccpt in Cannes, allhdiiyll eviry elllirt w.i't iiiikIc In pii--s llii'dii;;li tl c loriiiiili'ili' lio.;s iinil Bwaiii|H which iiilorvetic, 'I'lils iniporliint link on the propuscil line of rniile [- sli'l a tiri.i iinuijiiilii fur a short (lisiance. (i. The projei tor» ol the lia\ i;^atiiiii of Kill l!i\er lielnw lireakcnriiijje, in I'le .Si iie if Miiini'sot.i, Innk iiLo III the N'orlii Ih.iiicli 11- (■Hiring ll.e 111. i-l favoiirahh- inc. ins of riaehiiig ti.e fonl of the Hncky .Moiiiilains. They are cmi-t; iiiinig a nliaimr on Iteil llivi r, ami propii.-e to inniuel, l,y a line of "tago-, w'iili ('ii)W' Wing anil Si. Paul. Crow Wing is within I'.'O iiiilci nf Lake .Snpirior City, nml 11 Iravclkil •inniner roail alrenly esisl-. Iietweeii tl.cin. .\> no iinpcdiiilent is kiinwii to exi-l in the navigaiion of lleil Uiver fir Kle.unerr. nl' ^hallnu ilrall, the ciii-e ol this Hinniner will witmss, no duiiht, the navigation of ilio llnl Kiver of the Norlli liy sleiiii; and it-, coiiin sloii with Lake Superior on the one liaiiil, ami the .Mi-.si--ippi on the oilier, liy tiavelhil roads, 'llii-i i'oiim\ion can lie niaiiitaincil dm iiig the winter inoiiili-, fidiii ( 'row Wing or St. I'aiil. In these piojeit-. so rapidly approaching loinpletion, the North liiaiicli of the S.i-iliiiil)oiiie to tin' liioiilh ol'llie (^n Appclle or Cilliiig Kivir, then up the liii'.Appellc valley tn the .Siiiilh lir.iiich of lliu S.iskatchi'Wail, then up the South liraiicli to Ihiw Kiver. Mow Kivcr is nil allliicil of the .South l!r,iiii li i^sllillg I'riiui the liow Kivcr I'ass, one of the hc-l in the Kncky Mininlalii r.iiige. In order to coiivcrl this roule into a sicamlioiil coiiiiniiniiMlioii withoiit any scrioiw intcrriiplioii,' the diversion of the waters ol'lhe .Soiilli liraiich down the tjii'Appelle v.illey i^ invdived. fs. In Si'ptcmlii r la- 1 1 comioiiiiii .ilt d I'l y^ni nii.ier iLte, Kid Kivcr, Si pi. UUli, the n suits of an c.xplor.itiiiii of the l^irAppelle Kivcr valley. I li.uc now the hoiioiir to siiliinit llie plans of that exploration on a scale 'i|iiiriil .iliiilil I'n n-.ilis frnni llol Uorr. In nviioinu' a ii'ry IMjiiil ilivriiil ol'll.c AssinliiliiiiTH', lull lliis l)re;ik \u>iilil iH-('ur 11 slmit lli^lil^(.\' ri.iiii a s|ik'iuliil ii{>i JLUltiir.il LiMiii'.iy, ai.d w.iiil.l IiivdUl- a p.iilu^'i.- Itiail ov.r a viiiily trail (il'lalMn 11 tJO and 110 iiiilus. It i^, liuncvvr, lirubublc that i,U-aliii;r> uf liigli liuwir wuiilil lie ulile lu aii'i-iiil Uic iiltri-lit at ttii' sjiut nl'i-iTi-il lo. SASKATt'IIKWAN KXI'l.OIUNd KXI'KDITIO.N. 33 I f). I now iiroccod fn "liow tin- rcliitloM dC tlu' (Jii'Apiiclli' valley In llif Sontli Iliiincli ol' tin- Sa-- kntclii-wiui anil AfKiiiniliniiii Itivcrx, ami (■> Iriu'c iIh' ri'.uli-> |><'lli) vallry iiitn lilt! Anfiiiiiiliiiiiii', tliriu'c iiilo Kill Itivt'i', piutt rni'l (iitiiy, ami lliially intu liakc W iMiii|H'K. 10, 'I'lio valley of lln' C^n'A|i|)ell(' Hiver jolii« tin- A"»liiiiilM)iiu' llvi* iiiilcfi iibovo I'lirt I'^liiee, ami liy tlie wiii(liiin» of llie nver valley alioiit .'iriO mill « iVom Knrl (l.irry. It it "JTd ii>ilen loii^, and iippeiirH to l)(i a loiiiii'i ('oiitliiiiJilioii of llie Soiilli llniiieli, in a dii'<-etii)ii neaily due ea»l, to the low rejfinnit now oeciiijieil liy I/iiLih Maoitoli.ili nnd U iiiiiipe','. Itn we^ierri exlreoiily Ii-huim Ironi tlie South llr.iiii'li at llie (■'Jliow, oi- ilu' pniiil where lliat livei' Iron) u due ea«ferly < oiirHo, suddisdy lal.eH nnd pi'e^ervcH Cor 'J'tO iiiiIik a noilheily eoiii'te, until it ioiii'' with the North Itraiieh. 11. The narrowest liieailth ol' the Ixitloiii ol' tliu (jiT Appelle valley irt hall' a mile; ilu i lireadlh about one Mill .Mill a liiiH'. It^ nhalloweil part in alioiil I'.M) leel lieiow the level of th» prairie, and itn iriiul. i deplli in hitween !1.'»() and KMI fi'el. It mtt ii jientlv uliiiiiiii; plain, exteiidin JVoiii the Soutli llramii to the AH^iilliilioIiie. The ^urfaee of ihi-, pi lin it Hli;;litly iililiilaliiu: .mil at itn \ve»teni exlriiuity «anil hill iaii;{e.H anil Hand dunex in proiist of I'diiii.i'.ioii oiniiy e.\ten>ivi: ureii". I-'. The hinhe^l part of the lioltom of the (Ju'Appille valley \* only M.j feet ahine till' Snnlll IJraiifh lit ill siuiniier level, and from "."» tn 7H lei I .ilmve it dmiii;; the ^priii;; eleviitinii of iN waleri.. This oeeur» al a point di.-'liiiit I I [, niilin fnmi the juiietion, v\|uie a lake it loiiiid, whieli di eharu'i " itself liiitli info the Sa-^katehcwan and iV-..inniliiiiiie. Iti fore ennmeliiijj uilli the Aii-iniiilioiiie, il HiIIh-JisI fret ill 'JM mile-, or I ft. I ill. per mile. The dill'erelli'e of level l)et»ieii llie .^iolitll llrailili, ikt one end of the (in'.\|ipelle valley and the ,^^«lllllil)oiIle at the ollur, U iiidy •-'()!) feet. I.'J. In il^ hin^r, deep, and n irniw tiiiir e there are ei;!ht like', hiivii|i{ "i iii;)irei;ale leii;,'lli of .'> I mile.-i. .Mu-,t of tlie.-e IiiImh ahiiiilid in while li.-'li of ^real >i/e and llie i »t i|i aiity. They are eiai- iiei'ted with l.iiii;.,' Lake, at sliiiwn in .-lieel No. |0, oeeiipy in;; iumtlie. .. !ley ruiiniii;.' iierth-we,terly, II eoiiiiterpint ol that (d' the (iii'.\ppello, ii'oM'ulaliiin; willi il al the (iraiid I'orks .■mil willl the South |lr,uieh M.ine .'10 iiiile-i niinh of the l^lliow. I-oiil; Lake i< III mile* Imii;, ~iiiiiliir, iik fur iii i saw of it, to Ullllalo I'oniid llill Lake iMiown on flieet No. 11, ill the tju'Appelle v.illev. Il iieeilples n deep, narrow, exravalid valley, nut e.xeeediii}; a mile and a half to two mill's hruail, mid from UlKI to .100 fret ileeji. 14. Niimeriiils iiica.''iireliielits of llie depths of 'he I i-hini; Lakes showed lliiin to lioM from 10 to 00 feet of water. Tin se depths svei'e maintained with ^;reat ref;ularity. 'limber cea.-es in the valley about lOM miles from the .\-sinnihoim'. It ai>|iears a;;aiii al tlie .Miio>e ,Iaws I'ork.s, II) I niih - Irmii the A^iinnibiiine, iiiiil oienrs iiLiain in small ({nantilies at the Sandy llill.s, near the llei|.rlit of Land. Moo-e .laws I'orl.s is Well woiiileil lor a eon-iderahle di»l.iiu:e : it eoini s liom the (iraiid Cote.iii di! Mi-siiiiri, wliii^e blue oiitliues are dislimtly visible i'mm ibis piiiiil of the (jii'.Vpiielle valley. I.'i. Wilhiiilt eoiisidcriiiL; lure the ipii slioii win tlief the Siiiilb Lramh diil ever pasi down ti,e valley now oeeiipie I by the iii-ijjniliialit (^u .\ppelle, I pnipii.^e In i^laiiee at the kind of v...ik wliieli wiiidil bo re>|uireil to .-end ils waters ibron^b this ma^niiliei iil cImiiih I, into tliiit of the A> iiinlboine, and till nee pa-t I'orl (iairv into Like \\ iiiiii|ie;r, .\iid 1 may here remark, thai aliiiiist evtiy lo the A ■.slniiiboine, 1 l;illt II et ahove the level nl llie liver 111 .\li;;usl last! .«(> //"// //»)■,■ (liii.i iiiTiir, fur It /iir ini/m nr iliii/.i nir/i i/ntr, ir/n n llif .■.//hm) iinlt.i, n nmliiiiimis initir I'liii'inuiiiniHuii fimn flirt (liirri/ til iifiir l/ii Smith Jl> 'i, .similar to what would be produieil if li.e .Sa-kiilibeHiin were diverted down the valley of ihi. ^urAppelliv In l.-s.-j'J it was luiiverled iiilii a lake fri.m the .shandy Hills to the .\ssiniiilioine Hi. \ dam, h.l li'et hi;;h. iiiiil (iOO lo (SOO y.iriis loiiii (a few iiiilts lower down llie leli;;th of tile dam would be much lens aeiu^^ the deep narrow valley in wliieh the Smith Ibiiiub llows, below where the (^11 .\ppelle valley join- il, VMilild send itM waters down the (jii'A|ipille valley, theliee down the Assiniiilioine past I'ort (I ;iy, anil lliii-, establish a splendid and pml.ably uninternipted navii^atioii, for steamers of laii;e -i.e, lor a dislaiiee exei edinj, tinO mill ji. lieyoiid the point 1 iimi'IkiI, lie' .South llranch w.is rep ■ ted lo me, by the lialf-breeil.s who have vi.sitid it, to emitain no iinpi iliiiu nl as f.ir as the niiinth sliou I am not eompetent to diseu>s. Il may be iiere reiniirked that the hill sides and the valley of the tiii'Appellc. fur a di-taiiee of six miles from the .South Hraiich, arc covered willi lar;;e boulders, and would liirnish an iibnndaiit sii|iply of that kind of material. Large iinil water-worn tne- of ir.aiiy fpcries were observed on the sand-bars and mud (lals of the {jrcat river, evidently brouudit by the stream from some distance above. IH. It will be asked whether injurious cDiiseipicnces to the settlements on Ued Iiiver and the Assiimiboine iiii;,dit not ensue from the passai^e of .so l,iri,'e a body of water, duriiipt sprinj;' freshets, down the valleys of tlio^e rivers. The answer lo iliis iimstioii is rendered remarkably simple, by the peculiarity of the valley of the Assiimiboine just before it meri,'i's into the open low prairie eoimiiy, two miles above Prairie l'orlai;e. Here the river iflides in an exeavated Ireiic'i .ib ml l(i feet below the prairie, but in times of very bij;li (lood.s it semis waler across tiie iir.iirie, iloivn the liroad, sliidlow valley of Hut Kivulet, into Lake Munilobah. Uat Rivulet rises in the liad Woods, west oi' Prairie E - I r" .1 ,' , ' sprilii;, the whole of ilie (^ii'.\ppi He \alley is leiuded froiii the lb ielit of Land lo the ,\ U'e benii'iiilv fiiniid water-marks i ijilit li el above the levil of the livi r in .\iiLrust last; .i< 34 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND Portage, witliiii two or three miles of the Assinnilioine ; and the ridge which divides it from the river is an imperceptible rise in the pmirie which the eye can scarcely detect. A shallow cut through the gentle rise separating the Assinnihoine from Hat Rivulet would permit all flood waters to flow into Lake Manilobah, and protect the settlements on Red lliver from any danger of being flooded* 10. The country drained by the South Branch above the Elbow is very little known. The descriptive accounts I received from half-breeds who have traded with and resided among the Blackfeet Tribe of Indians occupying this region were very encouraging as regards the IJow River, especially in respect of climate, and the timber which covers the eastern slope of the Hocky Mountains. They represent it as far more attractive and delightful, in every way, than the region drained by the North Branch and its tributaries, which, being ent by the 54th parallel of latitude, is three degrees further north, and thus suffers from many of the disadvantages of climate belonging to its geographical position. 20. As an instance of the difference in climate between the North and South Branch, I may mention that, in August last, we found the Mesaskatomiiia berry ripe, luscious, and in the greatest profusion on the Qu'Appelle and South Branch, growing on trees 16 to '20 feet high, whereas on the iVorth Branch, ten days afterwards, they were found scarcely ripe, on small stiuited bushes from five to seven feet in altitude. I had an opportunity of conversing with men who had resided for years among the Blackfeet, and who had wanilered backwards and forwards from Bow lliver to the Columbia, through Boiv River pass: from their descriptions I infer that, in point of soil and climate, the eastern slope of tiie Rocky Mountains, unwatered by Bow River and Red Deer River, is well adajited for a grazing country. 21. The advantages to be derived from the suggested diversion of the waters of the South Branch down the valley of the Qu'Appelle, are numerous and highly important. (1.) The distance between Fort Garry and the foot of the Rocky Mountains would be shortened by at least 40(1 miles. (2.) The route would be a steamboat navigation, probably with one short break on the Assin- nibi)ine, from Breakenridge, on Red River, or any point on Lake Winnipeg, to the foot of the Rocky IMonntains. {'•i.) Batteaux might drift from Bow River to Fort (larry without discharging cargo, or even touching land. (4.) The season of navig.itiou would be eight to ten weeks longer than by the North Branch. Tin? ice does not often leave the bead of Lake Winnip-g before the lOtli iif June. 'l"he Sotitli Branch mi;.'ht be readied from Fort Garry, through the Cju'Appelle valley, by the 10th day of May, often by the 1st of May. (5.) 'I'lie proposed route passes through the most promising and feitilc part of Rupert's Land, namely, the valley of the Assinnihoine. 'I'he whole we.stern flank of the Riding Mountain would then become available for .settlement, as well as the fertile area south of the Qu'Appelle, as far as the Mission, 119 miles from its month. The Touchwood Hill Range, on account ot its proximity to Long Lake, would accpiire the importance which its wonderfully rich and fertile soil promises for it. ((5.) The best ]iass through the Rocky Mountains would be approached by the most direct route, and be, in fact, a continuation of that route. (7.) Tile dangerous and circuitous navigation of Lake Winnipeg avoided, the Graiul Rapids surmounted, and the yet apparently unknown dilFlcultics of the Coal Falls, just above the Forks of the Saskatchewan, overcome. 'I'lie " Coal Falls " are situated on the North Branch ; they consist of a series of rapids for 18 miles, and are much obstructed by boulders, many of which are expose is itisiTli>d : — " Since writiiiK the iibove, I liave tiitd the advjint.i;ii' i*t' lieiirin^; I'rofessor Hind's lecture on the siihjert t(t whii-li it refers ; but even iidniitthiff that the whole volume of the South Ut,tncli of ti.e S)skatche»ini coutd be turned into the (^u'.Xppelle, it must not be supposed that lueks coulfl lie dispensed with. It is possible, indeed, that in the valley ot' the (iu'Appelie itself, "lieie the descent is represented as being vt ■ gentle, the current iniirht not l)e too strong for steamers of bis Iteport, under date " -Uh tluly ISJS," the following paragraph: — " In speaking of navigable lines that might be made availiible, I should mention that at the (trand Portnge there is said to be an iilt truhr fti'n-m', hi/ iclikli tin- Assinniltiiiur^ in iiU pnittitf'ility, /tun at stunt jieritjtl il'titcUurijvtl Hit unitern Inti' lltf Mtintttitmlt LtiJit" " I'lie accumulated mass of water, rushing w ith the impetuosity of a mcnintain torrent," is a pi.etical descri|ition ot a pbeoonicnon which is nppio.icla-d every spring when tlu' snow melts; tint it leaves no traces of its occur- rence liivond water-marks on the sides of tile deep t>roiiil valley in which the Assitmibuine (lows, and on the trees which cover a large portion of the (lats. (See paragraph .N'o. I,', of this communieation.) SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 35 i23. The line of route by the Asainniboine, Qu'Appelle, and South Branch, is admirably fitted for a postal commiinication, which could be carried on during summer and winter, by horses and dogs, at a minimum speod of 100 miles a day. Tliis might be easily accomplislu'd by the establishment of post stations in localities where they would become centres of popuhition in the midst of fertile areas. Such areas are known to exist on the line of route (see No. !>, paragraph 21) proposed, as far as the South Uranch, beyond which is an unexplored region to the mouth of How Kiver. The lunnanizing influence of missionary entorprize could be most favourably Kursued at these stations. 24. Considered apart from the great local advantage of , isessing a steamboat communication to the foot of the Rocky ^[ouiitains, either by the North or South Hranch, the occurrence of gold in unexpected abundatice in British Columbia, not only on Fraser's River, but also on 'rhom|)son's River and elsewhere, over wide areas, coupled with the emigration and commercial activity to which it will give rise, is sufficient, I think, to warrant mc in drawing your attention to the subject. It is one which is continually acquiring increased importance ; in the eyes of our American neighbours ■ f the western states it is of paramount interest ; and I think we may look upon the banks of the South Branch of the Saskatchewan as the great emigrant route to British Columbia which will be eventually adopted. 2.J. The opening of a route lietween Red River and Lake Superior will now rapidly grow into importance, and the communication between the Atlantic and Pacific by I.akc .Superior, l{ainy Lake, the Assiiniibiiine, and South Branch of the Saskatchewan, begin to involve commercial and political advantages of the highest importance to secure. The following maps accompany this communication : - r. A map of the valley of the Qu'Appelle, on the scale of two inches to one mile. II. A map of the country between the Assinuiboine and Manitobah Lake, showing the valley of Rat Rivulet. 111. A map showing the proposed route across the Continent. PRELIMINARY REPORT. Sill, Toronto, March 2tith, 18,j9. 1 have the honour to address to you a Preliminary Report on the results of the Assinuiboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expcflition to accompany the topographical maps <>!' the region explored. These maps are conslructed upon a scale of two miles to one inch in conii)liance with your instructions dated 27th April lf<.")8. 1 have sent to you from time to time, during the past summer and uutunni, Reparts on the progress of the Expedition. These rc|)(irts were as follows: — No. 1. Dated (irand Portage, Lake Superior, May iith. No. 2. Dated Red River Settlement, June Urd. Including a lieport on the Pigeon River Route, by Mr Dickinson, C.E., with the following nuips. 1. Map of the Pigeon River route. 2. A general map of the whole route. .'J. A track survey of the Pennawa River. No. 3. Dated Fort Ellicc, July 9th, I8.JH. No. 4. Dated Red River Settlement, September lOth, 1858, including a report on the track Survey made by Mr. Dickinson, with one map showing the extent of country traversed by the Expedition. No. 5. Dated Red River Settlement, November 8th 1858, including a rejwrt by Mr. Dickinson on a track Survey south of the Assiuniboinc, Sic, with a map showing the extent of country traversed by the Expedition. On February Urd, 18!i9, I had the honour to submit to you a communication "On the Qu'Appelle " or Call-ng River, and the diversion of the waters of the .South Branrh of the Saskatchewan down " its valle\ , with a view to the eoustruclion of a steamboat communication from Fort (iarry, Red " River, to i.car the foot of the Rocky Mountains ;" with, Ist, a map of the Qu'Appelle River valley from the South Branch of the Saskatchewan to the Assinnlboine Biver, on a scale of two inches to one uiie. 2n(l. A man of the country between Prairie Portage on the Assinnihoine and Lake Manitobah. I now beg lea>'e to describe the general features of the whole country explored, as delineated upon the large map winch accompanies this outline of the residts attained during the past year. AUEA TUAVEIMCD. The country traversed by the Expedition is embraced between the 49th and 54th parallels of latitude and the 9(>th and 107th degrees of longitude. The lines of Exploration crossed an area of about 80,000 square miles, or nearly equal to that of Great Britain. The form of this area is similar to that of a parallelogram, being bounded on the south by the 49th parallel, ami a line drawn from the jjoint where the Little Souris River cuts it, to the Elbow of the South Branch of the Saskatchewan, On the east it is bounded by the west coast of Lake Winnipeg, on the iioiili by the Main Saskatchewan, and on the west by the south branch of that river. The longest diameter of this E 2 36 KKrORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND piiiallelogram from Prmbinn to tlic (iraiid Forks is about 450 inilc;-, anil its transverse diameter sligiitly exceeds o-M miles. Sl'IiFAlE Ff-atuuks. 'I'iic wiiiilp counliy, from tlie South Uraneli of the Saskatcliewan to the \allry ol" the Asiiiiniboine, sl()|)is ill an easterly (lireition, with a general inelination of abont one foot in a mile. 'J'liis tiope is continued tlironifliout llie valley of the Assinniboiiie to Jled Hiver, after a rather abrupt descent near wiiere the Assiiiniboine makes its easterly bend. Xorlh-east of llie Assinniboiiie the country ri.-TS almost iiii|ieiTeptibly for a tlistancc of 15 to ;)5 mile.-, a* far as the base of a scrii'S of liill-ran;,'es lyin;.; |)arallel to the general direction of the river valley before it makes its easterly bend ; it tiien rises by successive step.s and sloping iilateanx to a sniiiinit altitude of about 1,000 feet above Lake Winnipeg, or l,(iO() feel above the sea. 'i'lie-e hill-ranges are known by the names of the Kiding Mountain and the Duck Mountain. On their eastern and south-eastern flanks they show an abrupt and broken escarpment, and within the space of live to l."» miles the co'.mliy sinks from l,(iO() to (i80 feet above the sea, or within 80 feet of the levil (if Lake Wioiiipcg. At the fool of the.se liill-iaiigis, am! east of llicm, lie the great Lakes Winnipego-sis and Manito- bah, MJiiih are separated I'rom Jjake Winnipeg by a low, mar.-hy, and nearly level tract, bavin" an elevation rarely exceeding iSO feet above il. A line drawn throngli the hiriesl exiiaii.-e of Lake \Viniiipeg, .iiiDthcr thnnigh Lakes Manitobah and Uinnipigo-sis. a thinl through tiic iippir p'.it of the Assliiniboine Valley, and a fourth ihrongh that III tile .^iiiuii liiMiich of the .'^asi-.aleliewaii, liom the F.lliow to the Orand Finks, would be nc.uiv parallel lo one anotlier, maintaining a direction nearly due north and soulh. the devialion being iii favour of N.W. Ijy N.r.nd f^.K. by S. It nn'.y be I'lntlK r observed that the .Main .Saskatchewan, i'roin the Ciraiid T'orks to Cedar Lake, and the sdiulieiii portion of the Assiiiiiibiiiiie, (low tiiroogh vallevs also nearly panillel to oiu' another, and at right angles to those before enimicrated. 'riiis eniliprm (listriliiition of lake and river valleys is deleniiiiied by the direction of the hill .uid ridge ranges which chaiacterise the eoMiitry. 'I'he South liiaiieh of llie Saskatchewan, la low JJcd J)eer's liivi r, is .sep:iia;cd Irein tl.e Misxniri by the (iraiid Cdtcan dii Mis-oiiri. A continnalion or spur of llie (irand Coliau eonuson the (Ju'.\ppclle Itiverat the Height of L.nid about 18 mih's from the Klb^iw of the .^oi.lli Ibaiicli. Here it is called the '• Hyebrow Hill Kantie," by the Crees. It apjicirs to terminate soddiidy in the form of an isol.ited hill about -IIK) feet above the plain, called "llie Lumpy Hill (if the Wnods," a liw miles beyiiid the point where the Jsoutli liranch takes its easterly liirn to juin the Ndrth Ih'anch at the (Ir.iud Forks. 'J'he South liiaiieii flows for fully •JOO iiiihs below the fdliow at the fool of this continuatiim of the l!yehrow Hill rang", in a northerly direction, and ils h:u Lake, both covering an area of more than 1,")0 square miles. West of the Assinniboine we have the Qu'Appelle Lakes, situated in the Qn'Appellc valley, eight in number, and willi an aggregate length of 70 miles, ]5c.sides these, the Last Mountain Lake before mentioned is 40 miles long, and varies from three ([uarters of a mile to two miles iii width. Tho (iu'Appellc Lakes are very deep, I 1 fathoms or G(> feet having been recorded. North-east of the Touchwood Hills tlicre arc numerous large lakes, having areas varying from 1*20 to DO si|iiare mile.s. Home of tiicse ara strongly impregnated with saline ingredients, and are the haunts of innumerable hosts of geese and other a(|Matic birds. On the south-east flank of the same range and throughout the plain stretching towards the Assinniboine, lakes and ponds are every- where distributed. 'I'he western flank of the Hiding Mountain is dotteouris. Lake Winnipeg receives the waters of uunierous rivers, which, in tiie aggregate, drain an area of abcuil tOO.dOl) s(|iiare miles. The Sii.skatchewaii (the riv('r that runs swift) is its most important tributary. The ;?oiuh liraneli, It* miles l)elon- the KUiow, and '>>^ I miles from its month, is (iOO yards broad. The rale of llii> current is here '2,' miles pir hour: tho grcalest depth is 10 feel in the nmin channel : the mran depth across being -1 Mi feel. 'I'liere are channels on both sides of the river, one being (> and tiie oilier 10 feet deep. Aller parsing the Mouse Woods about 1)0 miles from the Klhow the river channel is niucli contracted, its current is uniform and swift, varving from 'J ,' to ;t| miles per hour ; mud and sand-bars disappear, and it llinvs between high banks of drift clay, with a liouiuiless. treeless, arid prairie or plain on either h;ni(l. At the Moose \Vooils, wiiere the rivi'r is very liroad and smd-hars numerous, the jiadih, of canoes have loiiclied the bottom frcan one side to the otli,-s miles below Fort li la Corne, near Tearing Itivei', the Jlain Saskatchewan is 'MO yards liroal, 'i'J led deep in the channel, has a mean sectional depth of 'Jo feet, and flows at the rale of •J miles an hour. "Ji'l miles below the (irand I'ork-- the .Slain .Sn.-lay ( 'omp.my'.s boats of four or five tons are tracked up tiieia wilh Inilf cargo, but loadeil boats deseendiiiL', run the rapids. 'Ijie length of the poitaiie involved in ascending tlii' river is '.'.'li) yards. The ."•'askateliewan now eiitirs Cross Lake, and after issuing from lliis elongated expanse of water begins a rapid course to Lake A\ inuipeg, with a current often ',) idid somitinies .'U miles an hour. The luad of the (irand Itiipids is about 4 miles Ironi the mouth of the river. The length of tlu^ portage is I mile 7 eh;iins. The ra|)ius below the portage are alioiit 1 .1 mile long, so that the toti.l Kngth of ilii' (.irand Kapids exceeds -JJ, miles. 'I'lie fall from the west to the east end of the portage, as ascertained by levelling, is "JS.Ji feel. The fall liilow the portage is estimaled to be I.j feet, Cdiiseipicntly the total fall is about -l-'i I'ei't. The (irae.d Kapids are run by llud.son's I'ay Coi '(ally's loaded boats; in ascinding Iroiii the fnot of ilie niiiids in the easl end of the |)ortage boats :ire f.icked or toued up wilh half cargo: they are then run back ag.iin, and again tricked up with the other h.ilf of their freight. From east to west end of the port.ige lai.its are tracked up on the .■•iiith sidi' of ihe river, with a load of I.) pieces ( I, .'i.'iO Ihs), the remainder of llie Ireiglit is curried over the portage. The distance from the liraud Forks to ihe month of the Saskiitchewan in ;14-J miles; the distance from the Klhow of tlu' .Soiilh Uranch to the month is (il)iJ miles. The S.iskatcliewan receives .several allluents on its soiilli side, wiiich are importuiU only on account of the fertile tracts of country they drain. Long Creek rise.; within 10 miles of the South I'r.nich, and fiillowing the same nnrtlicrly direction, empties itself into the .Saskatchewan near F'ort il hi Corne, alter a course of about 40 miles, C.irrot or Hoot Uiver rises near the heiul watcr.s of Loni; Creek, and Mowing in an easterly direction to the north of the Uircli Hills, empties itself, aller a couise of 170 miles, near the I'as. i: 3 36 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND About HO miles in an air line south from the Grand llnpids, and 136 miles by tho canoe route along the coast, Lake VVinnijiog receivts the Little Stwkatchewaii or Daii])liiii Kiver, through which Lakes Manitobali and Winnipcgo-sis disciiargi; tlieniselves. During ordinary siiniuier levels the Dauphin Kiver offers no itnpedimeiit to small steamers of liglit draught. It thus tortus a valuable and direct comninnicatioii between liie vast water ureas which it links together. It Hows through a Hal and swampy country, oH'cring very few inducements, or indeed opportunities for seltleinent. The Mission of I'airford is situated on tiiat part of this river which lies between .St. .Martin's Lake and Lake Matiitobali, having been removed to its present position from the lower part of Dauphin Kiver in consequence of the occurri'iice of destructive floods the surface of the country not being above eight feet over the summer level of the river. Dauphin Lake is connected with Lake Wimiipego-ais by Moss Kiver, navigable in high water by lied Kiver freighters' boats. 'I'he tributaries received by Dauphin Lake scarcely r. -iniie notice here, although they may become useful as all'ording nica'-s (or transporting the valuable spruce of the Hiding and Duck Mountain to Lake Manitobali. The most important of these tributaries is the Valley Kiver. which separates the Duck from the Kiding Mountain. Lake Winnipego-sis receives the Kod Deer Kiver and .Swan Kiver, which open conununit^xtion to an important tract of country ea*t and north-east of the head waters of the Assinniboine. The .south- western exlrcmiiy of Lake Miinitobah is distinguished by the extent and ricliness of the prairies, which at a higher lake level it has assisted in forming. The White Mud Kiver, which meanders through them, may be classed among the most valuable of the lesser tributaries of the (Ireat Lakes ot the Winnipeg ba^in. .\t its soutiiern e.xtninity Lake Winnipeg receivis the Kcil liivei' ol the north, which, tog'-ther with its important atllueiit the Assinniboine, unwaters an area of extraonlinarv fertility and extent, already partially described in my report on the Kcd lliver I'.xjieditioii in lts."»7. The Assinniboine joins Kcd lliver in latitude 40° .54'. .Vl the coiitlneiu'i! o( these livcrs Fort Garry is situated. It rises in latititde .'il° 4(1', and pursues a .^outh-casterly course for a di>tance of about 260 miles parallel to the basins of the Great Lakes on the east of the llidiu"; and Duck Moun- tains. Within 18 miles south of the 50th parallel it takes a sudden be;;' lo tlie east, which direction is preserved until it falls into lied lliver, a distance of about •2'.'.) '■•iles from the great bend at Lane's Post. Twenty-ttto miles from Ton Garry the .\ssinniboiiie i- 1"J0 feel broad Muiu' 'Jts, lt*."if<), with a mean sectional depth of *> feel. Its greatest depth lii'ie is "J feet, and the rate of its current is li miles an hour. Near IVairie I'oilage. (i7 miles from Fort (!arry, the speed of the current is two miles an hour, and its fall, as ascertained by levelling, is I • 18 feel in n mile. .\t its jniietici wiih the Little Souris, an aflhienl which it receives 110 mile> liom its month, the breadth of the river is 11:10 feet, its greatest depth \'2 feet, and its mean sectional depth 8(i, the -pitd of it» eurreiil being l^ miles an hour. It thus ajipears that tlii- ri\er is cnn^idcrably larger ll(i miles from its outlet than '2'2 mile- from the same place, i'.ven at Fort Kllice, "JW) miles from its jiuietion with Ked lliver, the Assiniiibuiiie i> l."i."> fei't wide, li!) feel deep in the eliaiitiel, with a mean sectional deplli of 8 feel, and a currciil flowing at the rate of 1^ miles an ho\ii ; in other words, this river, "280 niihs from its month, carries a larger body of water than at a jioiiil '22 mihs from it. The following table shows the (piantily of water which ihe .Assinniboine carries at three iliH'ereiit points, distant respectively in round numbers *J'J miles 140 miles, and "JSO miles from its outlet by the windings of the river valley, but not by the winilings of the river itself, which will be at least double the Icnjith of the river vallev. Volume nf U'alir in tin' Assiimihoiue. IJubic Feet p*'r Hour. IiiKtjinof fniii) Oiitlft al l-'ort (jitrry. •22 miles. 140 „ '.'80 ., Lane's Post - - - ,'>,70'_',400 Mouth of Little Souris - 12,8!)!»,040 Opposite Fori Ellice - - 9,!t7i>,200 It thus appears that the volume of water in the .Vi-siimiboine is nearly twice as large at Fori Kllice as '2M miles lower down the river, if the foregoing table affords suflieient data on which to rest an opir.ion. It is very probable that the character of the season woiihl iiiiiilif\' these resulis in dill'erent vears. The measuniiicnis wi re not made -imnllaneoiisly, and the rainfall in the iieighhoiiihood of the Toncliwoo .VNI) I'U.AMIIK LaNH. The western and .uth-westcrn slopes of the Riding and Duck Mountains suppo''' lnuvy fnrcsts i a lioimdie. s, treelcs-; prairie, so that in crossing' Ironi I'cd Dcir s Head river to fort Kllice it was found necessar\ to carry wood for fuel for a distance of tiO miles. This prairie extends to the South Hrancli and hi'yond it. .\t ."^and Hill Lake. on the (^u'.V]ipelle, timber is .so scarce in the river valley and j'ullies Icailinn' to it, that wr were com- ])elli'(l to use the hois de vaelie for fuel. The fSouth JJranch, from the Klhow to the Moose Woods, iliiws throujih a treeless rejfion, as far as relates to the prairie on eitlier side; hut in the rnvines leadinj; to the river det.iclied croves of small timber occur. The houed.iry oi' the prairie counlrv, jM'operly so called, may be rou;;lily shown by a line drawn from the preat bend of the Little .Siinris, or Mouse Kivei-, to tlie (^u'.Appi'lIc Mission, and IVom the Mission to the .Moose \\'o(ids, on the f-'onlh Uraneh. South and wist ol this irniit;inary line, the counlrv, as a whole, must bt'iankid as a level or slii>hlly nndulalini;, treelr>s plain, wiih a lif;ht and sonielimis driftini; siiil, occasionally lilo«n up into dunes, and not, in its pri'seiil ciindilion, liile(l for the permanent habiintion of eiviii^tt'd man ; tlic> narrow valU'ys of the streams which drain it, such as I'lnni Creek. Moose .laws Creek, as «ell .-is some low valleys of comparatively limited area beinj; exce|)ted. I'liere can be no doubt that, if the nnnual lires which dev.istaie tla.-e prairies were to cease, trees wonld rapidly cover them in most places. Lverywhere ymnifj aspiii and "illov.s sliow ihemsi'lves in urovis wlurc " liri- " has not '• run " ibr two or three seasons. .\ li'w years ol' repose would convert vast w.isles. now treeless and banin, into beautiful and fertile areas. Last and north of this dry prairie region tlure is a large expanse of cultivable laud, which I now proceed to ilcscrlbe mure in detail. Aiti'As iir loi! Si.iTi.i:.Mi;ST. I'alky iif'l/ic Assiiinibutiu; Issuing from the Duck Mountain are numerous streams which meander through a be.uuil'nl and fertile country. 'J his area may be saitail Rivi-r, a di-tauee i)f ;j!> miles, the coinitry is Uvel and olteii marshy, with numenms ponds and small lakes, but where the soil is dry ihe herbage is verv Inxuri.inl, and grovi's of as|Hii, ;!l) liet high, vary the monotony of thi' plain. JJetween thi' trail and the .\ssiimihiiiuc the soil is light, and almnst inv.uinlily iMs the river is np|iroaclied it partake- o.'' a sandy and gravi-lly natui'e. with boulders strewn ovi'r its snrlac.'. The flanks of the liidin.; ^'oulltaill are covered with a densi' growth of aspen and poplar, and cut by luiniercjUo small rivtdeis. J'lom liird-iail Uivi r to the Litth' .Saskatchewan, or Itajiid Uivcr. a distance oi'.'i:? miie-, tin' same kind of soil, timber, and vegetation i revail. .Vhonl 1(11) milr; finin its mouth the Kapid Uiver is.«ocs from the densely wooli-d llank.> of the Hiding M(iiin:.ain tlucuigh a narrow escavated valley lilled with balsaai pophu', and an undergrouth of iherry .'iiid dogwuod, with roses, tonvolvnli. vetclies, jiiid various creepers. 'i'hi> slo])es are covered with poplar IM inihes in dinmcter. De.-i'eiiding the v'w-r, groves of pojilar and spruce show themselves, with thick forests of ns]>en and balsam |)oplar (oveiing the plateau on either hand. 'Ihe river is lure K) f et wide, with a very rapid cnrriiit. lielore it inakc~ its easti'riy liend the ash-leavcd maple shows it^ell in grovis, mnl on both sides i- uii open nndulitiiig country, attractive and lirlili, with detached cltnnp.s (jf voiiug tn'cs .sp'inging up in all directidns. The region ilraiiu'il by the Kapiil Uivcr contnues beaiitilid and rich uinil witliin •_'") inilis ol' the .V-sininhiiine, so that it may with proprii'ly he stale.l, that for a distance of/.) miles this river meanders through a country admirably adapted lor .■■ettiement. I'ouds and lakes are iHimiroiis, wild fowl in great lunnbers breed on their bordiMs, and the waters of the Hapiil Uivcr idaniiul in (isli. Canoes and bateaux may descend it liom the point where the explora- tion termimited to its nuiuth, a distance of \M) miles. It will prohably become important as a means of conveying to the settlcnimts on the .\ssimiihoine rnil Ued Uiver su[)[]lies of lumber I'rcan its vallev smd the Hiding MouiUain. From the Uaiiid Uiver to White Mml Uiver the distance is ."J.") miles, mid the country eoniiiiues to preserve the same general character with lespect to fertility and fitness fiir setllement which has now been traced out Hir a space of 10 t mih' . \\ hite .Mud Uiver flows into Lake Maiiitohah, at its south- western extreiiily. 'J his river mi waters ail extensive area of the ri( best pr.iirie laud, similar in all respects to the \\ hite lIor>(! I'lains on the Assinniboiiie, or the rich wastes on Uiil Uiver. W idle .Mial Uiver is coniieeted with I'rairie I'ortage by an excellent dry road, the crossing jilace heiiig abimt 18 miles fnnii the I'ortage. The river banks are well timbcrid with oak, elm, a.-li, maple, aspen, and balsam ])oplar. It possesses valtinble fisheries, and eoimniinieates by an uninterrupted canoe naviga- tion with Lake ,^L■lnitobah for a length olUII miles. The soil on its banks, and far on either side, is of the finest (luality. At the mouth of the river i\ fishing establislimeiii, bus been maintained by the people of the PorCage for several years. f-kSI. r and [ivcr. iVcillI U a ill -IS (.f .itii a , :>lli| oiiiij; iiililiil loi- a 'olll'.-i if 111.' I,.ra- lUlMllS v.tllfy llc.-i to IlllW hOUtll- in all Mii.l about n, and avjpi- ', is of jy tlic SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 41 The vnlley of La Iliviuiv Salo lias ii ^cnoral diivciidii paralli'l to tliat of tlio Assiiiniboiiic, and about 10 miU'8 south of it. 'l"lio country bitwt'cu tlio t«o rivers is wi t and niai'sliy, wiili lar{{(! an an covered with willow tliickots and ('luni|iM of sniall asp<'ii. Sunth of the valley of tlio (irst named river, the priiirii- is nin^rnificcnt and not sur|iasscil by any area of i'(|iiiil cxlcnt on lied Itiver. 'I'lie uroa of tlie roj{it of Prairie Portage - - l,;")Oll,000 Maslern water-shed of the .As-iunihoine anil I.a Riviere .Sale Long Creek and the Forks of the .Saskatehewaii - > - lietween ('arrot River and the Main .Sask.ilelieuan 'I'lie Touchwood Hill range, the Moose Woods, \-e., \e. - Little Souris or Mouse Itiver, (Ju'.\[)pill(' Itiver, W liite S.iiid Itiver The region about the head-waters of the .\i^iiiuiboiiie, iiieluiliiig 1 vallev of Swan River . . - . . i},.'illl),000 (lOD.DIX) .%lllll),OIII) •VIO.OOO 1,000,1100 1,000,000 Total area of arable land of (ii-st ipialily - .... 1 1,100,000 or eleven million, one hnnibed thousand acres. Of land lit lor gia/.iiig purports, the area is iiiucli more enii^iderable, and may wil'i projiriety be assumed as fully eipial in extent to the above estimate of the area of arable l;iiid. i'.ii.it oj' llic /{iiliiii/ mill Ducli Moiiiitiiiii.i. In a former Report I have shown that the country east of llie Killing and Duck .Mountains when t ikeii lis a whole will liirnish a very insignilieaut field for .^ettleinenl anil civili/ation. Where the soil is dry, llie limestone rock apiirnaelies in general su near to the siirl'.ice, as to be expo-ed whenever small trees are bloivn down or the soil Is penetrated to the depth of si\ or eight iiiehes. With respect to the greater portion of llie area I visited on the -liores of Lake \Vimii[K'g, Lake ^^anitlll)all, the Little S.iskalcliewan, .Moss Itiver, Daiipliin Lake, and St. Mirlin s I.tike, together with the region between Lakes Winniprg and Manilobah, always excepting the sDiuherii shore of the latter lake, I am 111' opinio I th'it ;♦ is not generally filU'il for selllemeiit. In my Report from Red River, dated November Slli, I h;'ve descrilicd more al leiiglli the iiatui.il I'eiturcs of a large portion of this region from praelical i..ioi inatioii obiaiiied during a journey on foot exceeding 100 miles in length, from the siiini'iit of \\\v Riding Mountain to .Manitohah House, on Lake Manilobah. (ir.oi.oGii .M. I'li.vrL'liKs. During au exploration extomled over half a year, and embracing a very wide area of country, numerous rock specimens and specimens of organic remains, have been collecled. Most of these were brought lo t' n Red Kiver seltlemcnts at too lale a period to admit of their being taken to .St. Paul before the spring of l."<.j!). liy far the larger poriion of the eolleclion I have made is still at Red Kiver. 1 shall, therefore, contine my.self at present to a very general oulline of the geological features of the country. The most striking peculiarity in the arrangement of the dillereiit formations, from Red River to the Soiiih Uiaueii, and from the I'Jth parallel to the Main Saskatehewan, is their undisturbed and liorizontiii comlition. With two or three exceptions to he noticed hereafter, no appearance of local dislurl)ain,c was observed throughout the whole region traversed. The rocks dip, generally with a very gentle inclination from tin' north-east to the ioiilli-wesl. Someliiiies it is not only impossible to *t of Liiki- W'l: * I I'onsiU were collected in numerous localities Winnipeg, anil un tliu itianda of Luke Maiiitobali and Winnipego-sis. From tlic Saskatcliowan at tiio Cirand Uapidit to Uiul Itivcr, exposures of Silurian rocks are cverywheri- niiiiKi'tMm on tlic west sliort-s of tlie lireat liake. About forty milea due south of Snake Island, in Winnipejio-sis Lake, tiiere are exposures of a liglit asli-colored sliale, exactly similar, in its lilliological aspcet, to liiose on tlic Little Soiiris, and a small tributary of the Rapid lliver. Tliey occur ut un ultiliule of 100 to (!()() feet above Dauphin Lake. The country between those exposures and Luke Maiiitobuli, as well as in a () miles. They are loaded with iiodnliK and eoncretions, holding abinidance of carbonate and oxide of iron. The Hlue Hills south of the .Assinniboine are covered with the debris of this roek. It appears l!) feet below the level (if the I'rairie, at the mouth of the lir«t of the two creeks below Fort Kllice, afHueiits of the A>Hliinib<)ine, It is also seen on a small tributary of the Kapid Kiver, and in several places un the QnWppelle, east of the Mission, and on the east think of the Riding Mountain. In a former report I have nieiulrned that brine-yielding springs occi;'- from Swan River to La Rlvlfrre Sale, a distance of 2;tO miles. W helher the salt-bearing roeks beloiif. to recognized members of Devonian age is a ((iiesliiiu vel undetermined; but as the whole of the 'issils which I have collected will be submitted, whin iliey arrive, to Mr. Hillings, the palaionlologist i f the Cana fivt ileep. The cxpoiiire was trareU from lop to Ijoiioin. I'lic botluin of Uiv gull}) in aliout 'luo I'vtil akuvu Uuuiiliin Lakv, aiul 'IW ftet above tlie lut eipoiure of limt- stuiu' ^vLM) on Mos^ ItiviT. i J SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 43 no le»8 thnn five di«tinct beaches, in t'ocli of wliicli numerous water-worn masses of Lignite, frnm three inches to one foot in diameter, were discovered. In several phices the acciunuliition of lifjnito bouhlers was very extensive, and niinlit become of economic value. Hut in no instance was tlic Lignite observed in place on the Souris. The Imulders were genornlly found in a higlily ferru^jnous sand J when burned they emitted a wtrong Bulplnnous odour, showing the presence of iron pyrites. The "grain" of tiie wood could he perceived with the grealeat ease when large masses were broken open, and not unfrequently particles and strings of amber were found in the interior. The specimens I have brought to Toronto have cracKed on becoming dry in many directioux ; they will, however, serve to illustrate the character of the singular accumulation of boulder lignite in the valley of the Little Souris. Until 1 have had an opportunity ol submitting my collection of fossils, illustrating the vonk formations of the country,' to Sir William Logan and Mr. Billirig.s, I refrain from giving expression io any furlher views respecting the geologici.l features of the region explored. I think L am in possession of sufficient materiaLs upon which a tolerably accurate geological map of the country from the (treat Lakes to the South Uraiich of the Saskatchewan can be construclecl. Hut us this is a work involving much cautious inquiry, and the co-operation of gcjitlemeu tliorouglily acquainted with the fossils of the secondary rocks, some months must elapse before a geological map can be prepared. Climate. In a comminiicntion, dated 2nd February. "On the Qu'Appellc or Calling Hivcr Valley," I intro- duced some remarks on the climate or rather seasons of the Stmlli Hrancli, in comparison with the North Branch at the Forks and Fort a la Corne, The impression conveyed by the progress of vege- tation in these far Me[)arated parts of the country led to the opinion that the period of flowering and iif ripening fruit on the South Hranch at the ICIIiow was two or three wcekn in lulviiiK'e ol similar periods on the North Itranch. 'i'lie vegetable productions in the gardens attached to Fort lY lii t'orne, with a brief notice of tin' periods of planting and gathering, will sliow iliiit the cliiiiiilic adaptation of the North iSranch near the (iraiul Forks is not of a eliaraeler unlavourable to agiicul- tiu'al operations. ,\s this subject is one of great importance I have ventured to introduce some ejttracts from the journal of the I'ort, which are both interesting and valuable. On the 7th .Vugiist, in the garden attached to i'ort a la Corne (about IH miles below ilic (iraud Forks), potatoes were in (lower, and the tubers of cirly varieties of the size ot hen's eggs. I'ahoagcs were well formed, licet loots and carrots quite ready for the kitchen. Indian corn in silk, from seed which Wiis grown in the g.irden last year. I'cas ready t'ov gathering. . No disease has yet been noticed in the potatoes; and the grasshoppers, that scourge of the countiy south of the Touchwood Hills, have not made their appearance at Fort a la Corne. In the garden attached to the Nepoween Mission, under the charge of the KeV. Henry Hudd (a zealous missionary of native origin), all the vegetables gave jjromise of fair and reniunerativc crops. The puiutoc.s wen' superb; turnips, both Swedes and white, remarkably fine ; Indian corn, from seed grown on tin: spot la»t year, in i-ilk ; wheal rather too runk in the stalk — it measured a ft. .'J in. in length to the ear, which was well formed but green, and it seemed iloubtful whether it would ripen. .Mr Uiiild speaks very favourably of the soil, climate, and extent of land available for agricultural purposes. Holh the mission and the fort are situated within the excavated valley of the Saskatchewan, and are not, in my opinion, so fiTourably placed for farming purposes as they might be in the valley of JiOng ("reek. The river, however, is the great highway, and during the season, alfords an abundant supply of sturgeon, Extracts frnm t/ir Journal tit Fort «) In Conn; Sashatchewun River. Lat, 53° 20' ,• limff. 1 0-1° 30' If, 1851. Oct. 25. Ice made its appearance in the river. 18,52. April 8. Ico solid for the season of th.i year. „ 12, Ice started. ,, 13. lee drifting and Iwlging on the banks, „ 21. Ice drifting and disappearing along the banks, „ 22. (tardcn operations commenced. May 14. First sturgeon caught. „ 24. Planted iwtatocs. Oct. 11. Finished taking up potatoes. „ 25. Fishing season ended. „ 26. Snow. Nov. 3. Ice floating in the river. 1854. April 14. River broke up. On the 15th nearly clear of ice. „ 28. Garden operations commenced. May 1. First sturgeon caught. „ 8. I'reparing potatoe field. , „ 13. Potatoe planting. F 2 44 IlKl'OUTS Ol' TIIK ASSINNIDOINE AND Oct. '-'. (iiitlii'l'i'tl Imriips. ,, I'l. 'I'akiiif; ii|i (miioIc „ 10. t'limiiii'iuTil lakiiiK ii|) |>(»laliii'» Hi lliu iiiUniuii (100 ki'gp»), tiiriiipn, citrroU, ciiWliiiUin — laiiio 1111(1 ixihhI. „ II, t iibbiif,""* t.ikcil ii|). May 2i. 'riinii|)< suwii, tji'jit. la. Iliinl l'n>M oviT iiif,'1il. „ '-'7. 'J'ook ii|i |iuliil()i> -|)imi' crop, imii'li ilrsliojod In' >{nib.s, ., '.".I. Ilarilliosi, A liltli! ici- sirii al llic gull's. Oct. I. Women (lijiLiiiij; jiotatoos. „ *J. Do. do. do. „ i'). 'raking up lurnip.i. „ 'J'J. let' on till' fl nif,'lit. „ )>. Ici' niadi' a stall. ., 17. Ice (liil'liML;. „ '_M I'all ol' .^iiDM dining' tin- iiij;lil. „ 2;l. NcK Sfl. ( )ii(' .■'tiir;,'ion iaui,'lit. „ '.'5. Hani rio>t. May '_'. (iai'drii op('i'ntiun« coiiiini'nccd. „ lt». Sionii i.r .-now. ,, I'J. I'laiiti'd polatoi'J. II. .'>oHcd Swcdi'-<. .Si'pt. I(i. .S'' ;lit I'l list last ni(ilit. Oct. -. ( iiiiii'iiccd lakini; up pointocs. „ •.'•-'. hard lnnl iluiint; iiij,'lil. „ '2:\. Severe lio.sl diiiiiii; iiipjiit. ,, "Jfi. .'^iiDH ill niiilit. Nov. II. Itivcl- t'lill of ic.-. ls.-,7. April !>. Water appcaiini; on llie cd;,'( .< of tin' river. Snow sliooa ic(ii;:ri'd t'ViiywIieif. I(i. Ice slant cl to-ilay. ,, •Jl. Snowed willioiit ililei inis'.sion tlie wliole day. May .•). lev drirtiiii( id! Im«I iii^lil. „ ."i. Uiver rnii ol' ice. I'J. I'hiiiUd piilMlne- and on:oii~. „ "Jn. I'l.intiiij; piilaloes 'I'lnic stni-i;eoii.s eaii;;!!!. .June '2. Hard Iro.-l la^l iii;;lil. ., ao, .*>iarvalioii is siar.ng llie peo|ile in llie I'.iCe. Have caiiglit no .stnifTcon for sonic time back.* 1 .".'its. -Vpril'Ji. lee dril'lin;,'. I.arf;e (jiiaiililie~ of ice on liie lianku. .May 1. C'leariii;; up of norlli fiardeii. ,, 7. l'reparin;i poNitoe j;round. lirst sluij^eon caiij^iil. ,, I'J. I'lanted potatoes. „ 17. Sli<,dit liid of siiuw. li*. W ind Iroin N. and cold. Tliink wo are K'lii't.' to Inive u second winter. In llif (ieneral Uepiirt of tlie Kxpcdillon, wliicli is already well adviincud, I sliidl liave nil oppor- tunity of deffcril)iii|^ not only lliu to|Miniapliieal and f^eologieal fealiireM of tlie country in detail, but also the liabils and ciistiiins of tlie liiilian tribes witb vvlioni wc eanie in contact ; tlie condition and jirosppcts of llie .Mis-iiniary ."^talion.s; ilie lorlfl and I'osts of llio Hon. lIiidtlc, tlivir uciupalion, &(',, nnd nut to tlii> riipiibilitie^ urtlii> cuuntry, — 11. V. II. SASKATCIIKWAN KXl'LORINO EXPEDITION. 15 rrccivccl, uitliDiit aiiv exciprKiii, kind iillnitidn niid viilimlili' iishLiIhiici'. To Mr. MrTiivisli, Cliluf Fiii'tiii', ill cliiii'^c III' I'ort (iarn' ; Mr. l.iHic, nl' llio Stoiii' I'lut ; Mr. Siiiclnlr, (liiif Faclnr, (licii in I'.liiii'^c of l-'iii't Alrxaiiiirr ; Mi'. McKiii/.ii', iil' Maiiiloliali iliiiisc; Mr. .MuKcir/io, of IViiiliiiiii; lla- j^ciilli'iiii'ii ill li'iiiiioiiii V rlmi(;i' lit till' 'I'mii'liwooil Hill.<, Fort Kllici', Fort I'cllvi Fort li la (-'onif, mill (Niiiilirrliiiiil lloii»'; I lii'ir lo i'\|ii't'H» liiY ^'raliTiil lliaiiks. I yliall olru'wluiii' liiivc nil o|i{iortiiiiity III' rcc'oi'iliii^ many rriciull)' actn, wliiuli wimid lit- out ul']iluri- in a iiruliminary rr|iiirl, 'I'lio a^i^rcgato diatancL' tnivi'lled liy tliu F.x|ii'ditiuu in tlic rc((ion inarki'd out Ibr exploration, wa» 114 I'ulloHa : — On lioiM'l.ack .--... o !li)-_> inili'H. In Miiiill caniu's , ■ - - - - l,'Jtl;3 ,, III Iriiniilrrs' Ixiiit ..... (IM „ ( >u fool - - - • • -111,, A),'Ki'ij!ati' dintaiicu 4,4.'il iiiilc'8. In joiniiryiiiir lo Unl Uivrr, wlinc ilio ixplonilion ronimrnci'd, llic roiilo followi'd was liy tlie (ireal Wc^lrni Kiilway to Di'tioit ; lliriur liy stcainlioat In tlir (iniiid l'orliij;i', Lakii Siipi'rior. Friiiii (iiaiid I'ortiiui' tlic voyii'^u to Kcd Uivcr was iiiailt- in north ciiiouit, a disianuL' of l(i\(r, I.iiiU'% I'lisl ,, I'niirii- I'lnliij-i- ., v.. 'iv, .liimli.iii «illi I.illlo .SiMirin Uii.r . ■ . . \aiii'v, at Toil i;ii:.i- Kill. 4N0 IJO •J,.i".() •.':lo lin.noi'li. IVil. Itiv.r .... l.iltli' Sjiirls Uivvr, nl ilH mouth Villvv, nl llark-l'.il,(ir Miis^il Criik ■ ii.nr Sn.il.i> Kill „ lliv.r, HI .S.I ill' Hill - ( jii'A]>|>i'll(' N'.tlli'Vi 7')iiiilt.i I'ruiii .\ssinilu>iiii> „ ■ III M-siiin „ iit'iir tirinil l-'iirkn „ „ r lilt I'liil III' .SaikIIuII I.nkc „ „ I'i^Iit itiili s t'rutti »i">t III' .Sattilliill I 1 Itt.VOcll. l.,iki'. „ „ I'l'lwi'i'ii lli'it^lit of I.uml mid .Sis. I 7:1 I'liiiins kiiti'lii'it-iiti, , I'l'i't. „ UillT, at it., iiiiilltli - - - I KS „ ,, t«ii mills frum niimlli - • ; t>*'> „ „ at .Mission . - • I -IS S.lskalilK'wan, .Siiitli lliaiiili, ('JM tiiili's I'mni (Jii'.\|i- 1,818 liillf Valli-yV - I'Jl - i 8,ll|fi . i .'1:10 . I liio . \ 7S ilMiiin . ' I ln.'.'Oi'h. I liii.:i(ii'li. - I 111. ."i cll. IVliiii ItiviT, Furt ii III ('urtiu lU'Hr 'JV:iring Uiu'r • !lfi7 ilHll Ui'|>tli. Unli) Itcniark'*. Ori'alml. .Mi'ali. C'lirriMii. I'Vil. 1 Fill. iiiil.p.lir. 18 1 1'.' It "•(i 1 (> ■t . 1 . '.' Falls 1 'IH \\v\ (UT iimU- * . ' »:\ . 'rtio (li'iitli lii'lnw iIk' piiiirii' fiiiplit's to 1'.' 1 H-e 1 1 Ilk' N.iiili ll.ihk of till- livir uiity, . ' :'lo till- ^Il1|■^• uit Soutli I'liii;; viry gratluul. II'M 8 l| ;i'(; -j'l 4 (.0 . 'I'liis (li'ptli np)irii''i In the m>st sidf 4 (iiily. iiiNt hiilo ii>>vt VL'i'V i^iiidiiiilly - ' ;ilo to iihiMit viitiiL- ti'\el. I.i^iiiiu ■!.>' - 'JM ubuvc river. . 'J'iO - no - , 1.10 - no I'J 8 H 7'(; fi*i: i; :i-ii li 1 I'lilU (t'iKi fi'i'H? inclii's) per mile.* III 'l-ii •-•i Cliaiiiuts un liutli suit's i; tn lo iVvi 'JO 11 5 •i-i i 'JO L' I'atUo* Iti ft'vt (J mcli(.'H) per miK'.* ♦ Fall ilcttTiiiint'd by tin- U'Vil. P 3 4fi REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND r.KNKHAL REPORT AND NARRATIVE OF THE EXI-.EDITION CHAI'TKIl I, Fonr oAiinv to thf mouth of I'llE I,1TTI,E SOUUIS IirVEn. — THF. Til TIIK IIDtiNDAIlV tINI-:. MOCTH OF TIIK LITTLF SOUHIS The Start — Siipplioi — T'rnirir Itidgcd — Tlic Rip llidpr — Piffuon irnp» — nion;, KHloriiciMicr — Clmriidpr nf llip llig Hicljn- — Tln> AiisiiiMihiiiiu' — (innslioppcrs — Ojihwny KiR'unipnictit — t...i..i i'....i._ i»_. .:_:.. II I'liiv u II...., Ti I..- ui„-»... /»j:» — '■'' ■• » ••' < (fi-on Trnpi — Stony Moiintnin — Birdi — Sniino rniorrifi'ru T — v ruiriu-iiT in iiii" |M^ i\iu;;i- — iii»- .inn hniln» — (■rilSAlloppfm — Ojihwny Kni-'rtniptlU'M" Arc'lnli'iiiim ('(xliniiir — I'niirii' l'iiii»j;i' — ('lilt S»iill(i\v — ThuiiiliT Siornin — Ojihwayn — Thr Had Wood A>sliiiiili<>iii(' I'liri'st — Kivt'i' — liuliliitt — Sandy ilill< id' llir Assiiiiilhiiiiie — I.iilltiidi'— Diiiuimioii* id' Viillt' — Varialiiiii id' Cniiipass— Sand Diiiir* — Vspi'rt iii I'miiilry — Hail Storm — Ualm Spniir — I'liif I'rn k - The I.illii' Siiiirii — (ini««li"ppi'r« — ImsIi — Smiix — Cmaifuus llin'k»--llliir IlillH — IViidmia Uinr — Maiktl "aiiir — I'rairif I'irts — lliiriz ailal K'liks— liuiii'raiiiaii — (iin Idcr Kii ■ : - :- • '111 l.akii Vast I'raiiir — I'rairif I-'irts -llnriz anal Kciiks — InoiiTaiiiaii— (iiii Idir Kiisi' — I.iniiitr- -Aiit'iriit l.akr liiMclus — Sanil Diini Oak I.akr— S iiiri^ Sand lldls — Nit;lilha«k~-M p Inm Orr -I'lii'ids in I S.j'J . — (iia-.vliiippi'ii. Inliiiitc iiialtitadi' cd'- - .\pprarain r id' tlir Sky, iil' j'rairii'- laltlr Siniris Vallry -Trait* — 'I'lMtlr Miinniaiii— SiiMix — Cliaraiiir id' I'rairir — Simris l.aki'H — HuuliU'rn — Miiiiilaii Nillagc (liaraclir id' thf Siairi* siMilli iil' tlir Ullli I'aralli'l. Oil llir iiiiirniiii; iil' the 1 Itli .Inm- IS."iS, tlif lialt'-l)roi;(ls c'ii>{iii;i'cl Cor the cx|)('(litii)ti iiitn tlir I'rairn' rininlry »i>t id' itnl Itivcr, as^iiiihleil al mir liinpnrary (lliartrrs in the scttlcmfiit, niul l)c;;aii lit iMii'r til IiikI livi' Kill Uivcr I'arls iiml a «ai;niiii id .Aiiirriraii liiaiilllintiiri', «i|li two ciiiii"'* I'aiiip <'i| III p >i;i', in^tniiiii'nts, anil pi'in i, to lako in a .•ai:^iL;r, anil iiiaiji' >iii li r(>iinlatioii> ami arraiijrimiit-i as* aii' ron-ali roil ni'd".siiry at llir coniini'iiritiu'iil ol ii loiif; jniirncy lliioiijli a I'oiinlrv parllv iiili iliilril liy lio^til< lillius ul' liniiaiiK, and not aiwa^ts aH'orilini; a siippiv id' (nod rVfii to -kilhil liiiiili'r-' Till' wliole piriy coiisi-.ti'il ol'tliirlrcn imiiviiliials lu'.iidi's mysill, imincly : Mr. Diikiiixiii, Mirvcvor, Mr. I li'iniiij;, ii'.Mi-taiit -nrvi'vor, Mr. Iliiiii', pliotojiriipir anil as«i,ianl Miirvi'vor, six Cici' half lirniis, a iialivi' id lull Uivi'r id Siotili ilisi'int, om- lilackliiot liall-hiri'il, oni' Ojiliwav liiill'-liiii'il, iiinl oiii' I'rt'iii li (aninlian. Our provi.iioiis consi.'.trii of oiir ilioiiiand poninls ol" lloiir, four liiimlii'il poMiiils ol pi'iiiiian, onu tlioiisanil rations ol Criinian vc^i'tiilili'^, u slii'ip, tlirt't' liaiii>, and Ira lor lliri'r inonlli*, Willi a t'lU Inxiirios, muIi as piikii'-i, rliiu'ol itr, a lmIIoii ol purl \viin', ami uiir gallon of liraiidv I'.ai'li lart ua^ loiiii'ii vtilli alionl l.'illlli-. uiihIiI. ami llio ua<.'i^oii uith lioiiliit- lliat ainoiint. Till' riiiioi ~ id' liirrli liark, 18 Icit lonp:, wtiHlu'd l.")(lll)!.. earli. At tlir Wliili' IIoim' I'jaiiir, -J'.' niilr.i triiiii l''irl tiariy. «(• pnicha-i'il an ox to siTve as a (/cr/i/cr rr.wrMn casi' wi- dliiinlil not iiii'fl witli liiillalo; ami at I'mirir i'i)rlai;i', tin' list si'tlli'ini'iit on tlif As^iliiiilioine, I ('ni;a;>;eii tlii' Hi'rviri's id' an old liiiiiti'r id' Cnr orii;iii. who had lii'cn I'roiii liinyiiiitli faniiiinr will) liuiiiui habits ami -trala^rnis. 'I'hm aildilioii iiuri'aMii the parly ami inalcrial, liidiin- we lel't the Uisl settiiiiieiit, to liriiiii nien. liltein liiT'-cs, six iiid l{iver cans, one waj^non, ami one ox. liiaviiii; our caiiip early on the miiriiin}; of the l,")ili, we aecertaincil by levellini; tlie altilmie ol' on anrient lake ridjie, mar to St. .lames' Cliiiircii, to lie eleven feet above tiie prairie nt I'ort (Jarry, and about two mile-. I'loiii it These ridges are roniinoii in the prairies ol Red River, and do not iiceessarilv point to an ancient lake niarijiii. It is probable that most of them were forined tinder water. Tlnv may be traced for many niik's, but are sometimes lost in tlie general rise of the prairie. The aiK'iiiit boundaries of Ii jit l'|i[HT Fort Unrry, uf llu* moiitlt ill' tin- A^sinniltiiine, fnr Ijitiliiili-, llirr (l.iris, i^ivt- I r thf lirittiilf -i:*' 'i I '..'•t". .Mr. C.iltiimii, who utl^ Httiiilii'd to .M^tjor I.i mnilc it -I') ..;!' :J.'.", hut iivfonlin.^ ii ri'Cinil in tin- po'Si-ssion nf out' of Ilii- olficern of tile fort, Lffroy plai-iHl it ill latituili* 49° 58'.' t*wt'n>i tifilo^ii-al .Suru'v of Wi^c. -in. lon'a, anil Miilni'sota, p. ISO. ini'rtilinn Ity iillitiiili> of i'»livilitnm 111 IK'ja, SASKATCHEWAN KXI'I,()UfN({ KXPKDniON. 47 the fence williHrcw tliu prnp by ii nlriiii; iittiirliid to it, iiiiil tin liilliiii^ net Donii'tinit"* Nirri'tiMlril fti oiiliii|i|iiiiK II '('Die iir nmri' ot |ii;{it)iiii jit dmc liill. Nrai- llic iirl schit doiiil tri'rt iiii' |iliiiTil lor tim piui'iiiiH 111 |»'rt'li nil, mill NDtmiiinrM miiHi'd IiImIm iir» iimd hh ilcciiyt to iitliiicl jiiii-iiii^r llm li< III piii'Hiiiiiu oill' colirsr to Stiiiiy iMoiiillillll wt' <>ll(l('iivoliri'(l to loll>liiiiaii ii}(i' c?)* hikviii^ uHcapcii till' (li'iiiidini; liirci's wliloh cxcavatrd Iti'd Itivrr vallfV. It Is aliniil Iniii' iiiiltM ill cii nl lake lieaeli is well pitsuivid. Viewed t'roiii a ilinlance, Sionv Mountain leiiiiiiei) littlu ell<)rl ol tlie iina^ination to recall tlie turn- when ill)! HJialliuv waters of a roiiiier exleiioion ol' Luke Winnipeg wnslied the lieaili on its II. ink, or threw up as ihey niiidualiy receded, ridye alter ri(lj. Oriiy craiie^, ducks and plover were nnnieroint on the marsliy tracts, and in eveiy lillle hliill* of aspen or willow, ihi^ liemilirii! rii'e liinis wen- seen or heard. Where we camped on liu' i i|;;e iit' a lake near tin- foot ol' the lii^ llid){e, liiitern ;ra( kle, and sevuriii vurielies of duck tiew lo ami fro in alarm at our inviisioii of llieir relrealx. On the Hank of the Hi^ llidi;is the Cinnainon or aoliiaiy thrush was nuticed ; but iiinHt coninioii of all was lliu tyrant llycilelier, who umleavonri'd lo hold umliiiputed Hway over the hlulf he hail Helected a.s his lionii'. Near and wvM of Stony Mountain many small harren areas o<'cnr, covered with a saliiio etilorescencc. Tlii'V may he Iracid lo the As^iniiihoine and licyonil that river in a direction nearly due hoiiiIi to La Itiviere Sale, and the 4!>tli parallel, Tlieiie miline deponits are important, as they in all prolialiilily serve, as will he shown iiercalter, lo denote the preneiice of salt lieariiij; rocks hcnc.itli llieiii, similiar lo those from wliieh the salt spring!) of Swan Kiver, Manitohah Lake, and M Itiviere S,de issue. Karly on tlie inornin;,' of the I7lli, we asct ndi d the Hij{ Uidj^e. lis elevation ahove the prairie in ahont liO feet; on ils south side it slopes i^etilly to iho prairie Icvi I, on its north side i. a plateau well wooded with a>pen». The view from ils summit extemU far and wide over the Assinnilioine prairies. On the south flank, and skirting ils ha.sc, are <^rovcs of axpcii and li.dsam poplar, with scallered oak trees and willow hushes. I he pasturaye in tlic> open t;lii(les is of the lii^l ipiality. I'lii! ridne \» tpiilc level and ahout HO to 100 leet hrnad, destitiile cd' tree-, sli/^hlly arclieiiuiil)oiiic and ea-t of Ited Itivii. I'or iii.iny miles ties fur a railway iiii:.ilit lie laid upon it without a jiehhlo liiiiifT removed, and llie only breaks in it.s eontiniiiiy occur where streams Ironi the I'laliau ami hii'lier grounds in the rear have forced a pas^i^e iliroii^h it. Il follow^, howevir, the south and wentirn contour of Lakes Winnipeg and Manitohah, and pas-cs t!iroii;.di a coniitry iioi likily l.i bn lirKt s(deeled by a laru'e boily of settlers. It is imporlani, in so lar tliat il liinii-' the boiiiid.iry nf find of the lirst i|n.ilily, which oiciipie» the low I'raine \ alley- ol tl e .\ssiniiiboine and Ued lliver. Sonuihii;;i< in Like M.iiiiiobali showed siieh a nniforni depth of lii/litcen feet for a di^Iai.ce e\eeediii be withstood, notwithstunding the most solemn heutheii promises. The * 'i'litt Ualt-br<}«dii call llttU' gruves ofiupens or willows In (lii> {iruiriL"! " bluHs." F 4 1 •:l** r 48 IIKPORTS OF TIIK ASSINNIROINE AND scliool, liowovoi', nivt's lii'ttfV liniu". iind no doul)! tlic ri.-iiiji i;cm'riili(iii. l)otli liulinn and Imlt'-brecd nt I'riuric I'orliii'o, will loriu ii tliiiviiijr. induslriniis anil Cluistian comnnuiitv. I'rairio I'orliU'o is vitv di'li^lillully sitnati'd fi5 miles west of rmt (iariT, on llio lianks ol' the Assinniboinc. I'lu' prairii' liiTi.' U of tlio riclust description, towards tlie north and east, lH>nndles3 1(1 the eve. 'l"he river li.ink is l'rin<;ed with fine oak, elm. ash, and ash leaved maple ; on the south side is ii forest from tinee to six miles deep; the rivei' abounds in stiUffeou and<;ol feet ai)ove the level ol'ilie water; I counted no less than thirteen jrrouiis of their nests within i; distance of live miles, wlieu driftini; down in a canoe. 'l"he clill swallow was afterwards seen in •;reiit nnnd)ers on the Little .Souri-. the .South Ihaiicb of the .Saskatchewan, and the (iu'Appelle Kiver. The (iist of a series of tlnnider storms which lasted for some weeks visited lis this ai'ternoon ( ITth). 'I'lie warm rain fell in torrents and thoroiiirhly wetted all who were exposed. I'ifjeons were llyiiii; in vast numbers across tlu' Assininboiiie. and the black tern was luuuerons in the prairies mar the settlement. Jn dcsceiulilij; the river l()r a few miles to inspect its banks, we had occasion to pass by a lish weir, where a luunber of t)iibsvays, Irom the camp near the l*orta{;e, were watching with ppeais in their hands I'uv sturgeon. They look no notice of ii.» as we passed, beiiij; loo busily eni;a};ed, but oil our return to the eiicanipiuent we found them waitinj; with fish to baiter for tobacco and lea. We made them a lew trilliiif? pieseiils, and by way of reconipence, sust.iiiu'd duriiif; the ni};ht the loss of a fine cheese, which, after ciirionsly eyeiiif; doriiiL; supper, they had modestly asked lor a morsel to taste. Tliev t'ound it excellent, no doubt, and ((uiitly in tlii' dead of lu^lit opened the basket in which it hail bieii placed and ab.-tracted it. In future, when Indians were around, all eatables and articles thev mi^lit covet were propirly secured, and the chiese proved to be mir only loss dm iiij^ the exploration. Leaviiij; I'rairie l'orta;.;e on tlio nioiniiii; of the ISttli, we took the trail !. .idiii^ to the Had Woods, n name uiven to .i woody district about ;iit nides Ioiilt, by the bulliilo liniiters in l.-.')'J. who. in con- gei|iieiice of the floods of that year could not pa-s to their crossiiifr place at the lirand Hapids of the Aasinniboine by the I'laiii or I'r.iinc Hoad. 'I'liere were four hundred e.irts in the band, and the hunters were compilled to cut a road tbninjjh the forest of small aspen- which form the liad Woods, to eiiid)!i' them to rc.ich the hii;h HuHalo I'rairies. I'liis labour necMniid them several days, and will be loii^ remembered in the sctllemeiits in consequence of the misery entailed on the children and women. The trad lay for three miles throii;ili a cimlinuatioii of the low pi liriit of the -Vs-inniboine, until a Huddeu ascent ot •_MI to '_'.') lei t introduced lis to a oiircreiit kind of countiy, the |ilatcaii beyond the Jtij; Kiddie, which here cros-es tlu' river, and forms iIk' lowest or first step oi' the I'embina .Mountain. 'I'he physical fealiire.s of this boiiiid.iiy to a j^reat table land «ill he noticed at leiiL'lh in tlu' senuel. 'I'he .soil continue- poor and sandy for scvi'ial miles, siippoitiiiix chimps of a-pcii wiih a few oak in low places. The view across the .\ssiiiniboine reveals in the ^'i'2. The aspens were imicli disfiLiuied by countless nimihers of caterpillars, resemliliiij; those of the destructive I'aliner worm. In the afternoon we arrived at the .Sandy Hills; liny consist of roiiiuled knolls covered with scrub, oak. and aspens. Our latitude to-day was ascerliiincd to he •l!»° Hi' l!» ", the lieifjht of llie prairie l.'iO feet above the river, the bieadlh of the valley ill which the river llowed ,-),(iMI feel, and llie variation of the compass l.'l" K. .\ller passiiifr ||u. point where the foil lioiiii; obicrv.itions were iii.idi . ihe trail a^iiin enters the Had Woods and continiies throuj-li them iiiilil it strikes the .Sandy Hills iijjain. 'i'liese rouniled eminences have all the appearance of sand dunes, covered with short liiass and very stunted veffetation. As we cinerLtcd from the I'ad \\<;oils a noble elk ti oiled to the top of n hillock, and surveyed the siirroundinir eoiiiitrv ; a slight breath soon ciinied oiir wind as the hnnlcr was eiideuvoiiriii}{ to iip|iro;ieh liiiii, he raised his head, siiiill'ed the air and bonndeil oil! Another terrible lliuiiderstorni ciiiie on at sunset, wiili heavy rain and boisterous wind. 'I'he iis|iect of the country for nianv miles is that of a plain slopiii^r (^r, mlv to the »esi, covered with iuniuuei'able mounds or hillncks of sand, scarcely clothed with vegetation; here mid there small lakes or ponds are fouiiil, fringed with rich SASKATCHEWAN KXPLOlUNG EXPEDITION. 19 1(1 tlic mntain. ^(•(llicl. lak ill •IWl'CII 'oiisist unit till' iiIIkT •li'va- williiws I'Ulllul. of the hiiiitcis tliosf of insist of (1 10 be hic'li lliL> lure till' tliruu};li iiaiiiL' of I'vcd tlio iirin^ I" lui'stonii iiv mill's of Sllllll, villi ricli vcrdui'o, but its fjoncral RliarncttT is tlint of sterility. From llic summit of an ini|)0!s hailstorm or a dreiicliiiij; rain. The same eveiiinj; a llninderstorm iifi;ain visiti'dus; but the sun set ill gorf^cous iiia!i;ni(leeiice, with a brilliant rainbow and vivid Ihi'^hes of lightning in the east. The cinnamon thrush is not uiieonimon iinion;^ the sandy hills; we saw several iluriiiii the day. The next day we reached the pines, for which we had been anxiously lookiiiu, but to our (lisappoiiitiiient they proved to be nothing more than balsam spruce in scattered clumps. Aiiuther thuiiderstoim this cveiiini;. l)n the 'J.Ord we passed for a ili.'.tance of eij^lit miles lhroii};h a country of sand riilfies, until we reai'lud I'inc Creek. Here the sand hills are absolutely bare, and, in fact, drifting dunes. Seiidini; tho main party in advance, Mr. Mickinson niid I set (uit to examine the v.illey of the Assinniboine, wheio I'ine C'rei'k diseiubo^ius. The sand dunes were seen reposiii!^ on the prairie level, about lijl) to l«0 feet above the river. In cros^in^ the country to regain the carts, our course lay acro>8 a broad area of driftiiif^ sand, licaiitiliiliy rip[ilo-markeil, with here and then? niinibers of the bleacbed bones of biilhilo protrudini;- bom llie west sidis of the dunes, niemoriaU probably of former scenes of slaii^^liler in bi.ilalo pounds similar to those which we witnessed soine weeks afterwards at the Sandy Hills on the ."south Ibaiuh of llio .'^askatcbewllU. The prnly way to protect our propertv fioiii the dipiedalois was to pile it on the wa'i^nii and carts out of rnich. There were two distinct broods of j;rassliop|iers, one with winces ikpI yet lorniid, which hail been hatched on the spot, the ither lidl u'lown. iiivadeis fioiii the prairies soiitli (d' ilie .Nssiniiil'.oine. We noticed here to-diiy the lii-t tliiihl of these insects, which allerwards were witnissid on ii scale of alarmin;; mngnitiiile, •.nviiij; rise in their passai^e through the air to optical phenoiiu na of very rare and beautiful di scrip- lions, ,\s we cautiously approached the b.iiik of the rivir oppnsite the nioiith of the Little .Souris on llie look out lor Sioux Indians, sniiic jumpiiii^ deer and a female elk wiie obsei ved {{ambollinji in the river. A shot fnan a .Minie rille dirpcrsul them, and started iVuni their lair two wolves who were watihiiin the deer, patiently wailiiif; for an oppm-tnnity to surprise tlieni. The volume of water in both rivers was carcl'ully measured at the point of jiinctiiin. The .Xssiiini- boiiie was tbiiiid to be °_'.'!ll feit broad, with a mean deplli of six leet, and a current of cue mile and a i|iiartcr per hour. The liittle .Souris was I'JI leet broad, two feet four inches mean depth, ami tlowini; at the rale of half a mile an hour. Obscrviii}; iinmbirs i,f (isli risinj;; al f^rasslioppers in the Soiiii-, we slrclched a ;iill net across the mouth of the river, and smceeiled in taking pickerel, yold- eyes, and suckers, the Ki'ev and the red. In a second attinipl we cauji;lil a ta.tar ; a buj^e sturi^eon f;ot cnlaiinled in the iiieshes of the ,t;ill net, and before we could land him he succeeded in breaking away ami carryiii;; a portion of the net aloni; with him. .'si^iis of Sioux Indians in the nei<;hbuurho()d led to our keepini; watch diii'iii<; the ni<{lit; and on the moriiinj; of the '-'.'itb we proceeded caiiliously iii> the valley of the river, keepiiif; a sharp huik- init. On the lelt bank the lilue Hills of the Souris are visible ten miles from the mouth of the sireain, and towards the west the Mouse Head .Monnfaiii is s( en to ii|>proacli the (irand Itapids of the Assinniboine. The first rock-exposure in the valley was observed about l.'i miles from the mouth of the Souris. It consisted of a very (issilc, dark blue aifiillaceoiis shale, holdinii numerous con- cretions containing a large jier-centage of iron, partly in the state of ci rlionate and partly as the )iero\ide. Some very obscure fossils were foiiml, with liagincnts of a lar;.e Inoceramiis, Tlie shah' wialhcrs ash-white. It is exposed in a clill' about '.ID feet liinli. 'llie i.pprr portion of the clill' consisls of yellow sand, superimposed by sandy lo.uii holding liniesloiie boiildeis and pebblis. The exposure of shale is 70 leet thick, in horizontal layers. '1 he country west of the Souris so far is nil open, treeless, undulating prairie. On the cast side the lil.ie Hills lire very pi.iiires(|iie, with their flanks and fiimmits wooded with aspen. IJaiii as usual; the day dosed with a ihundei -storm. On the 'i/lli we arrived at the westerly bend of the Soni is in the midst of a very lovely, undu- lating country; the river is here 50 feet broad, and in its passage llirougli the llliie Hills it bus excavated u valley fully ■l.'iO feet deep, liock exposures are of freiiient occurreiice, the dip being .')' smith. Kragments and perfect ftirms, but very fragih', of a large Iiio(Cramus are verv eoiiiiiiuii. Tlie I'ernigilious cuQcrcliuns arc disposed in regular luyers nnd cuiislitute a markeil feature u 30 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND of till? C'roliaooii.'-- rocks of lliis valley. A continuation of ilie valley of tiic Souris extendi in n direction neaiiy t: nitli-east towards Pembina lliver, with wliiili it is said by tlic lialf-broeds to inter- lock. 'I'lirie lakes visible from our camp were said to be the sources of the IVnibina lliver. A little stream issiiiiiLt from the most westerly of these is called Hack-fat rivulet ; it (lows into the Souris. Dei'r are very iminerons at this beautiful bund of the river. Il appears to be a favourite watering place. The lialf-l'.reeils of St. .losepli often cross it at this bend when on their hunting expeditions to the Grand ("oteau. It is not improbable that it will become a iioinl of importanee if ever an emigrant rontc should be cstablisheral hundreds in iireadlh. The (liy .^ea-on had so withered the grass that the whole country ol' the Saskatchewan was in flames. The liev. Henry Hudd. a luilive missionary at the Nepoweeii, on the North liranch of the Sa^kalche- wan, told ine that in whatever direction he turned in Septernher last the eotiiilry sciined in a blaze; we tr.iced the tire from the lOth p.iralU'l to the ."(iJrd, and from the llyth In the l()7th degree of lou- gitiule. It extended, no doubt, to the IJoeky Moiiuliiiis. A frw miles wot of the lllue Hills, being anxious to ascertain the i'ip of a veiy remarkable exposmo of shale, wiih bandsot ferruginous coucretions, Mr. Dickenson levelled with the utnu>sl care an exposure faciiig the luth, and (bund il to be perfectly horizontal. At the base of the exposure, and on a level with the water's edge, »c succeeded in (inding a hiyer of rock lull of gigantie Inoceranius. One specimen me.isured (Sl inches iu diameter, it was very fragiU\ Imt the peculiar prismatic strnctun; of tlu^ slu 11 was remarkably well prcserveil. On attempting to raise it, it Mparated into thousands of mimue (irisms so charaeteri>lic of this shell. Va>t nmnliers of pigeons Wire flying in a north-westerly direi'iiiin, and our friends the gja~-lioppers were every- whcie abundant, l-'rom the lilue Hills toil .South Bend of the river, rock expo-iires, posse>niiig the characteristics already noticed, ociurred at ivery heiid of tlii' river. '1 he fiist specimen of lignite wa.' seen near the nmuth of P'cim t'reek, where ui' camped on the •JiUh. (l was a watir-worn rounded boulder. ( )ii points of the river valley >onn' fine oak, elm, balsam poplar, and aspen are found tor the lir^t 'JD miles. The guelder rose is com- mon, \\ild prairie ro>es abinidant, siKiwberry, and two varietiis oi cluiiy, of frcipicut occurrence, us well as woddbini', wild eonvolvulns, and hop. A little beyond Plum or Snake Creek wc found nmue- roiis pebbles anil b(ud(lei> ol lignite, and with a view to ascertain whether the lignite existed /« joVw we m.ide an excavation in the bank ot the river and exposed the strati- fication liira depth ol' "J.) le, t. The last exposures of the t'letiiceou? shales were observed about three miles ea^t of llie biiik wheie this trial was made. \ li w hours' labour revealed live old beaches, prob.ibly of an inlami lake. These beaches were composed of sand and hiuilders of jim^/^^^^^^t lignite, I'rom the si/e ol a hen's egn to ii|iply was speedily obl.iined for ;i fire, which was soon niaile on the bank ; a strong .-iilphiiroin ochuir was emitted from the iron Jiyiites in the lignite. The section exposed the slratilicatioii shown in the wuodeiit. .Some l)oul(lers of hijnite when hrokin open exhibited si leaks anil small paitieles of amber. The low hills about Snake t'reek ari' sand dunes, and on tluir sides an opiintia is very common. The prairie on the Wist ol the .Siuiri'^, as well as on the east, is tree- less; the banks of .Snake Creek support a thin bolt of iiiuall Ibresl trees, such as oak and ash, with a lew ash- leaved maple. T'lie siuiuial fires prevml the willows and aspens from coveriu)^ the country, which they V I. trillt, Ci II, •'. 1)1. K rs .Suul. I).. II,. I,i;.'riili- };iii<)ti Sanil. i Safi.i. IVri u. I.i lliMil.Ur I^VA IMIN OV Til 1 .vxi IKN r iii:.\eiiK .S;.li(J Willi Lij!;ililf llluo Ci; I.IITir. SOIIIIS, SIKlWINIi WITH I.Ui.M't'K llOLt.UKItS. 7 SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 51 imm- 1(1 nil slrati- if tlio ■;i^l of iibour l.ikc. IMS <>( Kit ill eh (lid WllS III) the III! tlie •il tlif liliitfd , niul prairie irce- lielt of 'w ash- tilloivs tlipy undoubtedly would do until replaced by otlier species, if not destroyed to within a few inches of the root every time the fire sweeps over tl.cui. 'i'lie banks of the Sonris here are not more than 40 feet hif;h, with level prairies on either hand, a few miles bcyoml the Snake Hills. Within fdiir miles of the mouth of Snake Creek, Oak Lake, several miles in diameter, attractod the lniiitiii!; portion of our party ; they brought bark some pelicans, and a score of duck. Tliuiidcr storms us tisiiai to-day and yesterday. On the 1ft iliily we arrived at the Sonris sand hills, and n)ade a section of the river bank where a land slip oecjisioned a fine expos .n'e to the water's edge. The formation consisted of blue clay above tlu' level of the river fivr, feet, supporting Anir feet of ferruginous sand and gravel, on wliicli rejiosed 12 feet of sandy loiiii and sand to the prairie level. The blue clay, capjied by the ferru- ginous sand was traced for a (lislanee of ti^ miles, and showed a dip to the south of two feet in the mile, the clay disappearing beneath the water. No t.rganic remains of any description were found, although a careful ."eareli was made Boulders jf lignite from six inches to nine in iliaineter were fre- quently seen in the bed of the river. The !•{;;'» of the nighlhawk were several times found on tl v bare ground, with no approach to a ne.st for the helpless young. The parent birds endei' voured to draw us away from their egg.-", fluttering, a.s if wounded, a short distiuicc from tliem, and ii'.teriiig cries of dis'ress. 'l"he IIiilIsoii's Ihiy Company have a post on the river among the sand hills, wiiicli is maintaineI ot grasshoppers were beyond all calculation ; they appeared lo be inliiiite \\\ mil. ' ■ irlv in the morniiig tla y f((l upon the prairie grass, being always found most minieroiLi ill I . ; laces, where the gii'-s was long. .\s toon as the siin had evajiorated the dew, iliey took short fli^ .. ..i as the hour of nine approiiehed, el. i after cloud would rise fvoin the |nairie and pursue their tlinlit in the direclion of the winil, which was generally .S.S.W, 'I'he number in the air seemed to lie grealesi ahmit noon, and at limes they appeared in siiirh infinite swarms as to listen iiei'ii'\ililily the light ol the snii. The whole hori/oii wore an '.iiieartlilv ashen hue from the light relli lU d b\ llieir transparent wiii;;s. The air was filled as with flakes of snow, and time after time clouds of these insects torining a dense body, casting . glimmering silvery light, flew swiftly towards 'he north north-east, at altitudes varying from .'uit' to perhajis 1,00(1 feet. I.vingoii my back and looking upwards as near to the sun as the liglit would permit, I saw the skv conlinually changing colour from bine to silver white, ash grey and lead colour, aecordiiig to ihe niiinheis in the pa.ssiiig clouds of insects. Opposite to the sun the prevailing hue was a silver white, perceptibly flashing. On one occasion the wlude heavens, towards the south-east and west appeared lo radiate n soft grey-tinted light with a i|uiveriiig uiolioii, and the day being calm, tlie hum pro(liic((l bv the vibraiion of so many millions of wings was (|uite indescrihabh!, and more resembled the noise |>iipiilarly teriiud "a ringing in one's ears,' than any other sound. The aspect of the heavens dining the greatest flight we observed was singularly striking. It produced a feeling of uneasiness, amaze- ment, .iiiil awe iu our niind>, as if some terrible unforeseen calamity were about to happen. It recalled more vividly than words could r.-C|'.ress the devastating ravages of the Kgyptian scourges, as it seemed lo bring us liice lo liice with one of the most striking and wonderful e.Kliibilioiis of Almighty power i-i the creation and siisleiiance of this infinite army of insects. In the evening, when the gras.^hopius were resting from their long journeys, or in the morning, when fii'ding on the grass leaves, they rose in clouds around us as we marched through the prairie —if a strong wind blew they hecaine very troublesoiiie, flying with force against our faces, in the nostrils aid (yes of the horses, and filling every crevice in the carts. J{ut fortunately, coniparativelv lew flew on a windy day, otherwise it wiuild have liecn almost impossible to make heiulwav against such an inliiiite host in rapid motion beft veai's hoii de vache. 'I'he first fresh imilalo tracks were seen today, and while taking ohservation^ for lalilii.le, tracks of a dill'ereul cliaracler and i'reater significance were discovered bv one of the half-breeds ilie G 2 62 REPORTS OF THK ASSINNIBOINE AND fi'osli print of liorsos' fi'ot, proiiomiced to be a fow houi's old, denoting the presence of Sioux oi" A-ifliniiiboiiics iii our iiclfflibourliood. IJcfort- rciu'iiini; the 4!)th piiridlcl, the Souris nu'iindcrs for scTcral mill's thioiigli n trceletis valley, about a niik- broad and e to a g')0.1 camping ground on Red l)cer's Head Uiver, and made 'reparations for crossing a treeless, arid, prairie at least (iO miles broad, in a direction nearly due nor'.i. The Little Souris nowhere approaehes the Missouri nearer than .'10 the direction of the proposed Pacific I iuiit n i.k r.. — kiidm loiir ii.i.iii: rii iiii; wi '.M'i'i I.I I. MISSION. Iinlim. Mprns Smell " — 1,'ccl Din's IIc;el Uivci- — riie (ireMi I'lairie, cliaiiieler i>l'— Mir:i;.'e- iliiil (ii:i"lici|)|H i — ri|ii-Ii.iic> ( 'reek — ('Mniiliy ,.lj..ii'..'eil Kiiic-I iii-ii|i|ieiirei! — I rei:M'eiiii« Idiek-' — IIiiII.iIm liiill — Kori |-;iliic' — .MiKay — I 'i.e.- — lliiiiiers — I'rcix i-i.iii 'I'liiiliiii: I'e-i — IV-iiiieiiii — Drii il Mi'.-ii — 'riiiimlir Siiuiii.. — .M.'iiiniiniii limie OJiliHiiv lliiiilir IblU'-lin-c il I'll Uellle I'or llie < Jll'.X p|Mlic .M i,"ici|l — 1 I ni-.-lie|,|ie|> — 'ri.llllili T Stiirllll-Tlail — W'.fi' |;i,l._>i. Kiniii-Killllik — Mmle nf M;illlll':iellllili;.' — llinildi I Wllile C'ralli- — Mii;;|iii Itinls — Dew — Ari'lilv el' (Ireiil I'niirie — Cliiiiles I'liill — Clialk Mill- — lieliaii 'riiriii|i — (jiiVViipelle l.ake« — rre.-li .\n:lllj:elilenls — Deseelll anil A-nlll nl' llie l^ll'.\|i|M lie — t^ir.\p|nllr Mi»iiili — Dilllell~iM||. iiC \iillc y — Cliararler nl' Lake- — Wliile l''i-li — liev. .Iiiiiie- Seiiee — (ianlrii el' .Mi.>iiiii — ( ;iii-~Ii.i|i|m-i- — ('liii-llaii \Viii>lii|i Hapli-iii — ■■ riayiiij; Tailn r" ainl " I'liiyiii;.' Man " — liiini — liiMiaii \Vi-lie>. While engaged in taking oliserv.itioii" for latitude at the inoiilh of Heil Jteer's Head Itivtr, on the ninlit of llie '.'lid .liilv. .lolin MeKay, a Seoiih hall-breed, ob-erved what he thought to be a wolf approiieh the brow of a hill, iihoiil •_>00 yards from us, and after apparently g.iziiig at the cneaiii|imeiit for a few miiuiles, il relired beyiiiiil view The night was clear, and as we were eniiiiiipeil in llie vallt v of the river, elo-e to its Jiiiieliini wiih that of the .Simris, siinininded by sleep h'lls abiiiit l.'iO feet liiyh, .111 obiecl appearing on the br iw of those in our rear could be seen projected against the clear skv. McK.iv look no fnrilier leiliee ol tlu' str.inge vi-ilor than to mmliiiii tlial he saw it and ihiiiiglii it w.is a Wdlf, but hclore we red willioiil ihc reappe.uaiue of the objeel of our 'il-liirion. On lie- follou iiu liioniilig we ende.ivoiiicil lo di^eiuer tiacks ;it the spot where il h. id iippe.iied, bill llie liill being coiiipused iifgravil, llie .--oil had received no imprei-ioii which our niD-t -h.npsighli d hair-breciU couhl p. a.;:. SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 53 cvory mi'iTil)cr of llic party sti'&incd liia olfiiclory nerves to tlic utmost, but without detecting llio siiu'll cil' !iiv, ni'vcrtlu'lcss the old liunter persisted in iiis statement timt lie had " smelt it.'' We fiiniped at sunset ch).-o to the river, and when taking supjier distinctly licard the distant neigh yl' a hor.se; tlii.i was considered sulTicient warning, and taken in eoiniexion with the appearance of tlie object on tiie iiill in the rear of oiir camp tiie night before, was hekl to be coiieiusivf evidence that we were watclied by tiie (Sioux, and that an attempt would be made in the night to steal our horses. Our fires were put out, the carts placed close together, and ii watch set; the lialf-brecds did not anticipate an attempt until tlie approach of dawn, but the sudden ^'alloping of several horses who were feeding in the valley about 100 yards from us, towards the carls, soon alter ten, proved that Indians were already near ns. .'On hearing the horses approach, tiie men started up and ran to stop them, which they succeeded in doing before they passed the carts. Kach horse was now tethered, and the half-breeds, crawling thr()\igh the long grass, arranged themselves in a half-circle, about 70 yards fr,im the carls, each with his gun loaded with buckshot. The night was dark, and perfect silence wan mainlained in the camp. 'I'owards moining one man came in to rejKjrt; he .slated that he had heard " soii'.ething " cross the river and ciawl lliroiigh the grass within a few yards of him. lie waited a few minutes for more to follow before lie fired or gave the alarm, and then ranlioiisly crawled through llie long gra-s in the track of the " soinelhing'' wliicli bad passed near to hi:ii. 'I'lie tr.'ick led him to within ,')0 yards of our tents, and then lurned towards the river, and evidently crossed it. Morning soon dawned, and the watchers came in. We examined the tracks described by the half-breed who had first hoard the intruders, iind they were pronounced to be those of an Indian. Further exainiiialiou in full daylight fliowe here a rapid, clear slream l"J fti'l broad, we started on a nearly due norlli eouise to cio^s the ('leal I'rairie. The water marks on the hanks ol' lied Deer's Head Kiver show that it rises l.'i feet during spring IVe-heN, almost filling the Idw, narrow vallev in which it (lows. TIk' banks ari' fringed with small elm, balsam, poplar, and aspens. 'I'he piiiirie tor many milc< ap|iiars In be peii'eclly horizoiil i' : we always >eeiiied to be in llie eenlie of a very sliallow depre>-ii)ii. wiih a uniform and welUililinrd lioi-izDii in all dinctions. In the inoniing the distant outline meeling the clear sky was lust defined ; as llie d ly wore .in refracliiin magnified llio tufts of grass and small willows into biinhes and tree-, de^tidviiig lli" conliiiiiitv ol' the line liori- /onlal line wliere deliisi' \ and earlli Sieiued lo meet. Oc iiiallv the eil'icls of niiiMii were very lieaiitilnl. nMiiipiil lake; l'ortii;:alelv, the almost d lilv thundeistoriiis dileuly appeared in ih.' distance, and a~ (piickly fided fnnii our hail •d rpl shed tl le m.irslies ul gavi' lis an abund.iiil supply cf w.iUr, but in some seasons tl.e buH'aK) ,'iti<. ii:all piinil' hunters siilUi- niiieh tVoisi llie waul of water in en ll Amoni; the Imi Is nolleeil duriil:; ih: Its va-l Ire moiioioiious joiiriK'v were ■le s pranie. lurkev liii/zai'ls. r.ivi I'k tiTiis. We saw .-ome herdu of caliri, and McKay 111 l> (1 in killiii!/a li'maie. Wi rl.iMii to several ^llallow l.ike<. which are ol'leii drv in llie autniiin ; i duck- L'litifiil in till itll'.i IVS 111 till grateful supply of fresh fond. Tl le irras-ho ik. j| .-li till ippeis wcie were verv aliiindant, am I fur fi: .-imullaneiii-lv, when about lo lake their lliiiht. fidin areas two to -^) acres in exlciil, lir.-l prr|ieii licularly lo the height of j-J or II feet, ihcn in a slanting diiivlioii, uiilil they had allailied an elev.ition of fmni 'JHI) |.i .■illll feel, afU'r wliieli lliey miisned a liori/.mual com I'ef, In a light bieeze tli was like a gentle wind stirring the ..lives of a ful'ist. 1" idllieil liv ll H'lr wings Oiir half liieed-i infurmed us that this great piairie wist of tiie Souris eontiiiiies troehss and and tor a ihslane 1)1' lit) It IS lien crossed b luetiiig, as will be aflerwaids slii the liver the prairii' ciiinimiis fur is|) a river, \y LibabI v an arm o f the Nouns, eoli- th llie l^ln'.Vppelle liivi r at K Hone Crei k. lievoiid further, wiih.ail tree or sliriib ; tills w;i liiiiil to wliieli aiiv of ihiui had the |.)lirilevev could aH'oliI IH no fnrlhi'i iiif u-iiialioii lesuecliog ils eMeiit their biiHiilo-hiiiili g expi dit.otis. iln^y Tl uv well' inust ol llieai laiiiiliar 1 the lounlry south of the (ileal I'l.iirie, the tir.iiid Coleaii wliieli I lail V velreslu' .1 and iiivii;iiiMlod the he rliaae, ii proh.ihle lliat our callle would have .siiU'ered serioli.-ly from the devaslalioiH of these iii-eets. l'i|1e Stone C.'rc^ k is 'JU liet broad at our crossing plaei', witha switt cuireiit, and a depth of Water varying from one am 111 ijile is iiio-l nnin'riiiis. i's iieighbotuhood boiildei.- hall to llnee feet. Anion g the tr fringing ils banks llie ashleaved IV of this river is narrow, luil rieh and braiilifiil. On the hills in lire niiiiicioiis un d Ihi oil iianen. W. ivcd at the Assinibo (i ;$ 54 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOTNE AND he Two Creeks on the evening of tlie 7tli July. It may here be reranrked that our hiinter, who lind undertaken to gnide us in ii straijjlit line across tl\c piiiiric from Red Deer's Head River, confesMed that he did not know the country when within 10 niiirs of the Assinniboine ; lie nevertheless declared his conviction that we sjliould strike the river at the point lo wliich iio had promised to U'ad us. He had not visited it for "JO years, and tlie timber, consisting of uspens and willows wliich then covered the country, had nearly all disappeared. The old man was correct, the face of the country had changeil, the aspen forest had been burnt, and no vestifje remained ; we struck the Assinniboine within two miles of the spot to wliieh he had been directed to lead ns. Cretaceous rocks were afjain vecoirnized on the steep hill sides of the Two Creeks. They had the same lithol(i{,'ical aspect as those of the Souris; organic remains were scarce, but in suthcient numbers and variety to establish their position. On tlie !>th we passed through a fine grazing countrv, and here saw the iirst buffalo hull. After a chase of half an bomb's duration, we suc- ceeded" in killing him. Although very tough and rather strong flavonrcil, he was an acceptable addition to our larder. Three more bidls were seen on the following nH)rning, but being anxious to reach Fort Kllici', and already provided with meat, they were iiermittcd to pass us \nimolested. The country in the nciglibourliood of Heaver Creek is very bcautitid, hut the soil is sandy, sup- porting a short stinted herbage. We arrived at the Kort on the imirning of the i>lb, and took up our camping ground on the hanks of Heaver Creek, close to the Lcautil'ul valley of the .\ssiuniboirie. Fort '"''ice was at one jicriod a j)ost of C(?n8iderable iniportaiice, being the depot of supplies for th an R'>er District, now removed to Fort I'elly. The buildings are of wood, surroiuided hy a fiiirh picket enclosure. Mr. McKay, one of the sid)-orticers, was in charge at the time of our arrival. ftome 20 years ago, before the small-pox and constant wars iiad reduced the I'lain Crees to one sixth or eighth of their former numbers, this ])Ost was often the si^ene of exciting Indian display. Mr. McKay remembers the time when the entire tribe who now hunt on the Qu'A|)pell<' .iMil South Ihanch would approach the Fovt lo receive their supplies, lo the uinnber of fslKI warriors. >pl.iidi(lly mounted, and singing their war songs. Twenly years ago the tribe numbered -l.ttdO. in 5011 tcnt>; al the p 'sent day they do not exceed l"2(l Iciils, which npresent a lioiailatiou of !)(iO or l,(M)0 .-.ouls. I'oinierly I'ort Kllice used to be visited by the Crres alone; now it numbers many < •jibway-> among the Indians trading with it. The Ojibways or Saulliaux have been driven from the wdmls by the scarcity of garni', the large .'inimals. such as moose deer and bear having greatly dimiiiislied in numbers. Many of the wood Indians now keep hor^es and hunt on the plains. On tlie lllli .Tulv a numbir of luniters attached to I'ort F.llicc cime in with jirovisions. such a" pemieau and dried hulfalo meal, whicli they had pre|iaied in the prairies a t''W days before', about 30 miles from the Post, wliire the bnlliilo were lumcrous, Foit Kllice, the (^u'.Vppille I'o-i, and the estalilishiiitiit on the Toiicliwood llill>, being situated on the b(U'dirs of tin- (ileal Riinido Plains, are provision trading jiosls. Tiny obtain from llie i'lain Cncs. the .Assiiiniboines, and ttie Ojiliwavs, |ieiiiican and diiid niiat to supply the brigades ami boats in their ispidilions to Vmk Factorv.on 1 Imlsoii Hav, and lliroughout the norlherii interior. I'miican is made by pounding or chopping biillalo meal inio small pieces and then mixing it with an ei|iial (piantily i f tat. It is iiackfd in liai^'s made of the liid<' of the animal, in ipiaiitilies of about I'O piaiiids each. Dried me;it is till' flesh of the buHiilo (111 into long and broad thin pieces, about two ti'i't by I .) inches ; it is smoked over a .-low fire for .i liw miiniles and the n packed into a b.de of about (iO pounds. We had in.iny opportunities of steing llie free women on the (^u'Appelle i-iit. prepan , and p.ii'k dried meat, .\l Foil F.iliee lh(! tliunder storms were as violeiil as on the Souris, not a day pa-srd wiihoiil li"litninL', ihiiiider, and ■;eiu rally violent rain of hall an hour's duration. Tlie grassliopjiers at this Post had deslroved the cro|is last year, and at the time of our visit, the yoiiiig brood were well advanced, lluir wings being about one third of an inch long. lull-grown insects from the south were living overhead or alighting in eliuids anatiid ns, so that all ho))(s of ohiaiiiiiig a crop finiii llu? garden or jiotato (ii Ids were abandoned for this year Provisions were very scarce at the Post, anil had it not been for the loitiinale arrival of the hunters with ,soine peiiiican and ilried me.it, we should have been compelled to liunl or kill the ox, 'From Mr. McKay I recei\ci| a parliciil.ir account ol the "(ireal liones on .Sliell (ree!:, which had long been .i source nl' wonder and awe lo the Indians linnling on llii' lel'l hank of the A.Ssinniboiiie, ami whose magiiiliceiil ilescriplioiis led nie lo suppose they might belong to a celacean, and were worth a day's journey < iil of our track to visit and examine. They ueii' seen many years ago pronudiiig from the b.iiik of .Shell Creek. 'JO feel below the prairie's level. .Mr. McKay ilislrucled SOUK ol the hnnteis atlaebed to the Post to bring them to him. No Indians would kmicIi llieiii, and the liall'-biied (Uily hroiiLjht a tooth and collar boiu', which were slated by a niedi<'al gen- lleinaii to whom they Were shown to belong to a mammolh, Mr. Christie, of Fort I'elly, we wia-e iulormed, went to Shell Creek with a view to collect more specimens; he oblained some iili-, hut in a state of erumbliiig ring. The griissjioppers ycsterdiiy were e.vcelient prognostieators, a violent thunder storm in the after- noun coniMu iKiil in the east, (ail |)recedino storms had come from !' st,) and was itccompanied by exceedingly heavy rain and a very boisteroiis wind. The storm t d for sevc:il hours. At 9 in the evening the air was calm and the heavens clear and bright; a 10 I'le storm returied from tl;e wisl, and a niori' terrific and sublime exhibition of elemental warfare none of us had ever before witne.'ned. Three times the lightning struck the earth so close to us that there was no jicrceptible interval between the Hash and the shock. It was distinctly heard to liis.i through the air, and, instead of penetrating the ground at once, it seemed to leap from bush to bush for a distance of 00 or 70 yards, .'^o close did one (lash approach tis that when we had recovered from the shock and our eyes hail regaineil their powi is, several of us met each other, groping from cart to carl, to see if anv of the pally had been struck. It is remarkable that although the wind was blowing violently befm-c and afler thi' two Hashes just described occurred, yet, between them, an interval of about tliree-(piarters of a niiiiule. there was a dead calm, and a calm of short duration succeeded each Hash in our imtiieiliale vieinily. The trail eoiiliiiueil tlniiiigh good land for nine miles, with aspen groves on the crown of each uiiilulatlon. and willow bushes '.n the hollows. 'I'hen came a prairie, three miles across, but of much greaier exiciil longiluilin illy. I'oiids were numerous, abotnidiiig with ducks and ducklings. '1 he grey crane was very abundant, as well as a young brood of grasshoppers. Another rain and llninder storm on the evening of this day, the 1 Ith. lasting as usual for about one Imnr. On the following nioriiiiig we reached a treeless prairie, marked at its weslern extreinily by a sandy ridge rnniiing N.W. bv S.I!., kiioun aniiing the Iiiiliaiis as the Weed Kidge. It was covered with the bearberrv, from whicli the kiniii-kinnik, used lo mix «ith tobaccn, is made. This was the first time we saw this weed since leaving ihe sandy liilU of ihe Assinriil)ciiiie. The Indi ins of the prairies generally Use the inner bark of the Cuniiis srrirni, the red barked willow as they term if. We .saw them smoke the inner bark of the dogHo.id. ('uniux ulliriiifoliii. The mode in which ihesi' barks are prepared is very simple. .\ few branches, ahoiil three-quarters of an inch thick and four ir live feet long, are procttred, the ;iuter bark is scraped oil", after having been wanned over a (ire ; a knife is then |ire«sed against the inner bark and drawn upwards, for a space ol six or cijilil iiuhc- until the whole ef tiie inner bark is gathered in curly clusters round the stick; it is then thrust in 'round over the embers and roasted until quite dry, when, mixed with tobaci'o in c ipiul proporti " riiis the favourite kiniii-kinnik of the Norlb-We^t Indians. 1 often saw them smoke bark or aves of the bearberry alone, when th-ir -npply of tobacco was exhausted. The Indian who iccoiiipanied us to the Qii'.Vppelle .Mission comp allied of weakness and pain in the chest ; he snifereil iiinch from cough, and was evidently consiimplive; he was, however, triiicheriiiis anil indolent, and, as will be shown hereafter, soon left us in the lurch. Ilevond the Weed Ividge the coiinlry is very undulating; boulders of both fossiliferoiis (silurian limestoiii') and iinl'o>silifero'is (i;neiss) rocks were strewed nn the flanks and siiiinnits of the bills. '1 he white crane wiis first sciii to-day. I'lii^ beautiful bird is common in the Qn'.Vppelle Vallev am! in the ruiiihudiiil Hill i;iiij_'i'. It is a dangi'rous anlagoiii>t uheii woiniilcd, striking with niierriin' aim and gri'at loice with its powerliil bill. When a bird is wounded, the best way to avoid its attacks is to present the miiz/le ot tlie gnu as it approaches; it will fix ils bill in the barrel, and may then be destroyed williout danger. Instances have been known of this bird driving his bill deep into the bowels of a hniitv'- when not successful in warding olf its blow. Magpies are numerous on the Weed llidge, and the cat bird is heard in every little wooded dell. ()n the l.)tli we passed two streamlets flowiii!; into the (^n'Appelle. Their banks were fringed with >inall limber and i|uite lively with birds. In general birds are far more abundant here than on the .Soiiris. On all the wooded brooks we ."aw magpies, cat birds, crows, and, occa«ionallv, the solitary thrush; in the wet prairies, the rice bird, black tern, llie golden-legged anil coninion ploviT, the yellow-headed bl.ickbird, common meadow lark, chipping sparrow, and grackle; on ponds and in marshes, ducks ol many species, bittern and cranes. In the luoriiing. after a clear night, wo alwavs observed lieavy dew. 'I'his phenomenon was not so frequently noticed on the Souiis under similar circumslances. Tlierc can be little doubt that the aridity and barrenness of the Great Frairie between the Qii'Appelle and the 4i)lh parallel is owing to the small (piantity of dcv and rain, and G 4 66 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND tlio occurrence of fires. Nortli of tlio Qii'Appclli' llic country seemed to be fur more humid, and tlie vcgeliilion infinitely richer timii couth of thai ^n\\ vahev. Anollicr i)niirio ciglit uiiles hroiid sncceeihii;; to llmt liist dcscrihed, iind hoimduil liy ridges havinj; n N.W. and S.K. direction, inlroducwl us on tlie Ifilii to a hilly eoiuitrv for some niiiea ; tlie riiu;{e is culled tlie Indian Mead; it contains many beautiful lakeland is well woodei'. Mere we met with Charles I'ratt and party going to Red River. Charles I'riitt is n half-breed eateehist of tlic Church Mistiionary Society, well acipiainted with the habits of Indians and of bulKdo, but apparently scarcely Benaible of the imjiortanco of his duties and the responsibility of his charge. lie gave uu- a good deal of valuable information respecting the country, and, with tharacterislic generosity, if not a Christian sympathy, told John McKay to lake a young heifer belonging to him when we arrived at the Mi-i.-^ion and kill it in honour of our arrival, i'ratt showeil me some specimens of lignite which he had taken from a bed two feet thick at the Wood Mills about 80 miles south-west of the lliulson's Bay Company's Post. Me described the hill or range of hills as an island in the prairie. I'robably it was the remains of a tertiary coal bed, which, like the Stony Mountain near Red River, had escaped denudation. An ohi Indian accompanying Charles Pratt, born in this part of the country, told us that he remembered the time when the whole of the prairie through which wu had passed since leaving l''(iit Ellicc was one continuous forest, broken only by two or three narrow intervals of barren ground. The view from the Indian Mead range is exceedingly benutiful ; it embraces an extensive area of level prairie to the north, bounded by the Aspen Woods on the liorders of the (Ju'Appelle N'alley A })orti()n of the old forest alluded lo by the Indian still exists on this range. It c<)n>i>ts of aspen of nrge growth and very thickly .set. A liw cabri (proiig-hoineil antelope) were seen in the Indian Head range; they used to abound in the country unwatered liy the (Ju'Appelle. On Sat\u-diiy the 17tli we entered a very beautiful and fertile prairie at the foot of the Indian Mead range, our course leading us inn northerly direction to the (Jn'Appellc Mis.sion. 'I'he eonunon yarrow was very abinidani, and with the harebell reminded us of oilier seines far away. Six miles iVom the hills we arrived at a subordinate, shallow, bioad valKy, parallel to that of ihe tiu'Appclle. The a.spect (if its bound, irv sugi;eated the shore of a lake or l)ank of a large river. The lower prairie coiisi-led of a sandy loam, in which the Indian turnip was very nbnndanl. We soon c.inie up wiili a group of 8i|na\vs and children from the (Ju'Appelle Lakes, who were galhernig and drying llii- root, whieli the (I'rers call the Mis-tnf-niii.i-se-ni'-iin, or big grass root. The Freneii half-bic'ds call il the ponnne de ]irairie. The Sioux, 'rip-si-mih. It is an important arliele of food in llie>e re-;ions. 'i'he bolanic.il name i.-^ I'sumha is,-iilfntit. M iny bushels had been <(illeete p.m., alter i);issing through a magnilieent prairie the whole day. In lael the eounlry north ol' the Indian Mead anil Chalk Mill ranges is truly beaulil'nl, ami will one (lav become a very imporl.int tract. The Chalk Hills are a conlinualion of llie Indian Mead raiii^e. In the language if the Indians ihey conlain hands of "soil while earth or mod. ' The liall- bieeils call them "Chalk Mills.' It is a matter of regret that the time at our disposal did not permit us to malic an esenrsioii lo them, notwilhstanding thai no indications of rocks in po-itlon were .-iei ii on ilie Indian Mead ringo ; they were recorded as composed of drift, which may or may not conceal rocks in position above the general level of the prairie north of them. Cireat was our astonishmenl on arriving at the (Jn'Apiielle l^akes lo Iind that they were narrow bodies of water, occupying an excavated valley about one nulo broad, "J.")!) feet deep, and dill'ering in no imporlaiil p irtieular from the same valley at ils junction "itii liie A~sinnil)oine — I'JO miles disiani bv ihe river, or l;i4 by the Ir.iil. 'I'he importaiiee of the (Ju'Ap|ielle valley b(\i;an to develop iiself when the Crees at the Lakes informed ns that it continued ihroiigh the .Saskat(he«aii wiihout lo.iin:; ils hreadlli, and mainlained, e.seept lor a short distance, a great dc|'.tli lielow the prairie levd. I determined, therefore, to eXl)lore ihe whole valley from llie south branch of the Saskatchewan to the Assinniboinc, and ascorlaiM iIk' relation il bore lo lliose river.J. Willi this view the eanoi s were put in onler, the parly and supplies divided, and the arraiigornents detailed in tin; following paragruiih completed. Air. l)i('kinson, with a Krench Canadian and a Cree half-breed, was to descend ihe (Jn'.Vpiielle river from the lir-t I'isbing Lake to ils mouth. .Mr. I'Icming and m\self were to ascend il from the same starting place to ils source, and h)llow' up the valley to the Soiilh Hrancli of the .Saskatchewan. Mr. Mime was to explore Long Lake uml meet Mr. Dickinson al Kort I'elly. I intended, upon reaching the .Soiilh liranch, to descend lint magniricent river in canoe to the Grand I'orks, and then by li.e main Saskalche'.van lo Lake Winnipeg and Reel River, a di^lance of about 1,000 miles canoo navigation. The (Jii'.\ppelle Mi.ssion is situated between the second and ihird Wishing Lakes. 'I ho situation is hcaulilul, and the cunntry on all sides of a very novel and peculiar description. Mere the (Ju'Appelle valley is one mile and a (piarler broad, and iJ50 feet deep. ih>tb nuitli and sinilh a vast jiiairie extends, fertile, inviting, but treeless on the south, and doited with groves of aspen over a light and sometimes gravelly soil on the north. Most beautiful and attractive, however, are the lakes, four in number, and from the rich store of fish they contain, are well named ilie rishlng Lakes. A belt of timber fringes their sides at the foot of the steep liillit they wash, for they SASKATCMKWAN EXPLOIIINCJ EXPEDITION. ft7 mid, and tlic •idgcs Imviii)); till! riinj;e h wc met with ' tlio Church 'iilly gciirci'ly \c me a <;ood illy, if not a wf iirrivi'd at lijjiiito which thi' lliidsoii'a a. l'ral)id)ly l1 River, liail I us tliat he U'avini; I'ort {jniunil. The iiri'ii of K'vi'l L- XMiv A s of nspLMi (if II tlic Indian )f the Indian '1 lie ronnnon Six niiU'S ■ tiii'.\|)|iilli', lower iiniirie nil' ii|) will) a inn ''"'* root, •ds cull it the iicsc ro;^iriii<, si|ii:iws and Mj; tlu'iii into i", ;iii(l :ini(iiij» cdMsiiiiu' this 1 the eiiihcrs, hiifriilii skill loiiiina herrv rie the wlioie itiil, and will llidiaii Head ' The iialf- d mil perinil III were .-iei n nut cunccid w< re narrow lilleriiii; in -l-'(l miles to develii|) wall wilhoiit irairii- ievil. it( lieuaii to •aiioi s wore - [laragraiili fill the entire breadtli of tiio valley. Ancient elm trees with lonf,' and di'o ipin:,' iiraiuhes hond over llio water; tlio asii-leaved maple ac(|inre3 dimensions not seen since h'aviiif{ the lied lliver, and llie Me-sns-ka-to-mi-na is no Ioniser a bush, l)nt a tree eiirhucn to twenty feet hi;{h and loaded with tlie most lu^ciuuA fruit. The Qu'Appelle Mission was estiiblished last year (|M.")8) I'or some time past, hiiwever, ( h:lrlc^^ Pratt, the eatcchisl, has resided where the Mission is situated, and has consti uclid a coml'ortable Ui'^ house, fenced in a jiardeii, and now posses>ei six or seven cows ami calveu. An old lialf-lneed, whose name is oblilerated in my not lip his residence with I'rall: he had been enfjiiijed for tlu bolter part of his lile at diU'en'iit li^liinir stations belonf^ln^ to the lln(hon's Itiiy ConipMiiy throni^liont Uupcrt'a Land, and he declared that in all his exjier ence he had never seen tiie white lish (cdniijiniiin allius,) so larfje, nnmerons, and well flavored as in the (^ii'Appelle Fishing Lakes. The Key. James Settee, the missiiinary, a native, ol' Swampy (^ree origin, occupied Pratt's Hiiiue: hu arrived at the Mission last antnnin. In the garden, where wc liiiind hini, Indian c ns well as potatoes, turnips, lieans, and other culinary vcgelnoU Tl orn was growing, ,'ra.-^.-lioppers had net yet visited the Mission, hut vast llighls had (lassed over it. They wcie seen pa>^sliig the Coinpany's ptist, !2() miles south, on the 8th of tlii' month. They were then living to the east. '1 hey had nii-Mil tin Mission in I8.'>7, for tlicv visited the Toucliwdoi eggs in the ground, and during the prcMUt s Idii I Hills tl: orty III hliy miles iioiili. and dei«)~itid ilieir e voniij; brood, as 1 le d a f. iilter- ward.s, destroyed all garden crop.* at the Touchwood llills, and on the 'J8tli .Inly tlu(l when the riverend gentleman turning lo me, without any pridiminary notice, said ahriiplly, Name this imui I Alter a moment's rellectlou I said, .lohu, and withmit any unnecessarv los.- of lime uv won .hih liked to Ills liciK'li. nnd was soon apparently lost in iioi--y sliiinhcr to all consciousiu'-s of the prlvihges and blessings of which adult t'hnslian baiitlsin, duly (I, had made him tlie inlierit( When the Key. .lames Settee arrived at the Ml III last aiitiiinii, the Clves of ll idv Hi having received intelligince that the bishop had sent a "praying man" to leach tin in the tiulhsof irisliauity, directed messengers lo empiire whetlier '• the (ireal pr.iying fitlii r had sent plenty of mm, if so, they won hi: III become f---Vc^clat Ion— wiitcr- inark— 'riiir.l and l-'nurlli I'lsliin^ Lakes— fi-li—SninuliM^'s In I'mirtli I ukr— I'islilii;.' Lakes pi.ihalily .na'o iinltcil— (Iccse— relieaiis— I'lunih Luke— Wiitcr-niiiik— .\s|cct of Viillcy In IN.'JJ— (i.i'.\p|M 1|..' It'lvci — I'lMirle— Depih of Valley— Wliilc Ca'aiiu.s— Sc.tieii ot .\llavial Plats-Tcnipcratui-,— lli.uacU r ( I Prairie —Birds— Slinibs—.\iilclo|ic— Hare— Hoses— (iriiiul f'laks- I'laiii ( rccs— riiiipciatiire of Itlvcr- " , -I'laiii ( rccs— marks— lUiHalo 'IVacks— Cliaractcr of Sticaiii— UIIIoh raisins- ]'( tid Air men's Houses — Prairie — Waiildl'rinihei— ■flniiulir .Stiiiiiis — 'rmu IihuoiI Hill b Diil'l flay — laialics — Pice- 11,, ,, ^..ii.ioii, — I i.iiiii- — ,, iiuiiii 1 iimier — i iiiiiuur .■Miiiiiio — iiiiKii» uiiii mils — liiili:ii,s Till Is D.pioLiiiicy Indiiin Resolve— 'I'lio Grand Porks— Long Lake— Souris Porks— Soui is of (jnWipi lie and .\'siiiii|l)(iiiii_ II im IIRI'OUTS OF TIIR ASSINNIBOINE AND Qiiticnsion« <'f \'nllny— Tln' Gniml Coltnii — Prairie I'ireii — Inilian Signii — A Prniriu on Firo — HiilTiilo— t')ii«i(liii'ii(t' of I'niiric l''iin — Ki'cliiniiiliim M' Sterile Arcii — Imliiiii IVIi'({r,i|(li— Sfuriiiy i>(' Wiiml -^ Amit'iil Indian lviuiim|irii'iit— Tlif I'liiiii I'ri'os — ( iic 'I'liili — I'mviniuiK — IliiHalii I'liiiml Hill I.iiki — I'laiii- Imlianii '^lioftHtick — A«(Mct iil' l'i)iiiitry — (lutiMiii tic .MinKiiiiri I, ail Miiiiniaiii — 'IrrcliiN (iraiiil I iitiuu — Cliaract.r of — lliifFalii — ItiriU — I'lain Cri't'H, ('aiii|i ol'—Tlu Uii'A|>|i'll« V'alltn — Marrmv — I'rioantions — Sumlv IIill^--t"rel•» — Hois do Vatlii- — Salt Lake — Diiiii'iisidiiii ol' Xailuy — l>ralic» — Indian Ilosiiitulity— I\vi-l)row Mill — Sunrm of Ua'Appi'lIc — llnll'ald— Cliaractcr ol (in'A|i|iclli' Valley— Wator-niarks — Sandy IlilU — Distriliiiiion oCllonldt'rii — Section — lloik Kx|miinrt' — Siiormiick — Hand Dunuii — S(^iitli llriincli- The (ln'A|)|icllc Valley — free ('ain|i — lleiulilol' I„ind_S«cti(m ol' V.ilUy — Levels — Untt'alo Ponnil •- ('(ini|) Moving— ' Dead Men'— Old lUitliiln I'oiind — Ilorrilde Spcclacle — N'wl'onid-- llrinjfini; in llurtalo — Slaujjliti r in I'onnd — Slinrtntiek — •' Talk " — OlijeetioiiH tn llMll'-lireed* — To tliu ni ni^ing in iiiiniicp — .-»lilu^ml r ni louuu — tTiiuriniieR — iiiiK — i'i)|eeiiunH in iiiiii-nreenA — to H. II. Co. — Sliortmick'u Wuntn — Unck tAjiosiire— llnuldcrs in Valley— i nanicter of the Sniitli llrniieli 'riiree-()iuirters (if a mile friiin llie niontli of tlie little streiiiii joiiiiiij^ ihu Second nnii T'liinl l'i-liiii|^ l.akeit, tile liuil slioweil 44 feet of water. T'liis ureal ileptii suijiriscd us, as we liiul been |iiiil(lliti){ since leavnij; the Minxion in nlialiows not exeeediiij; four anil live feet in deplli. Cross seeiiont 8iilise(|Ueiilly iniide showed that the lake* were );enerally deip on the north and shallow on the miiiiIi *ide. An iil)iiiidant growth of ({leeii confervie eovered the snrliice, which, in its aj,'^;ref{iition» and (.•..■■.. V* .'J .• ■.^... a. ...iv .• ...... ...<,(...... I... ill, ■■>i,n,. Ill, (mill I.\C11>)1~ lion t!Oj feet. Another soiiiidiiig, "JOO yardrt Irom the N.W. point, gave .iT feit of water Thin w im the greatenl depth we obtained; but Mr. Dickinson liiniid the lower lakes to be lifi feet deep. The shores ol gr.ivel are strewed with blocks of drill limestone and ilie unfossihferon.s rocks, (inlls ari nmni'rons about these remote lakis, and a pair of eagles ' ' ' "' '' elm tree, near the west end of the lliinl Kishing Lake, belt of wooiLs on the south ! mode in which the lakes were separated oni' from the other. It is very probable that they were niiee all united. (ice.-e al)pcared in large (locks in the I'ourlh Lake, and at its wi'stirn end we saw a splendid (lock of pdicin.s. nniiiheriiig thirty-five individuals; a^ we approached they >ailed majesliiallv round and round, but took (light before we arrived within gun shot. .Magpies are verv nnnnrous in the thin wcMids fringing the lakes, so ;ilso are gr.ickles. the cat bird, and many sm:illrr birds. The I'ourth Lake is very shallow at its western extremity, six Ceil being (he greatest ihpth recorded. The hills on the iiorlli side are (|nile bare, and trees on the south siile are (oiiiid only in the ravines. It is full of weeds and its water emits a very disagreeable odour, but the water-marks show that dniiiii,' spring freshets its level is eight feet higher than in the suinnier season. This is an iiiiporlant (act when taken in connection with the alleged appiaraiiee of the wlicde valley during uet springs; it is llii'ii said lo rescnilile a broad rivir from a (ew miles east of the Saskatcliiwaii to the Assinnihoine. In lf."cj. a year iiiemuialile in Rupert's Land lijr the great (loods which eovircd an iniiiiense trael id' country, the Indians repre.-eiir the (^u'.Appelle Valley as fillii! with a migliiv river ilnongliout its entire length, (lowing with a swift current from the lakelets at tin' height of land, soon tn be described, to tiie .\-siiiiiil)oine. and as a nioinitain torrent through the short distance o( 1 -J miles which sepaiiiles them from the .South Hrancli of the .Saskatchewan. .M'ler having the I'onrth Lake and the marshes at its west extremity, wc |iaddled, saih'd, or trarkiil np a narrow swit'i stream, (liiir and (ive feet deep and seventy feel hroad, winding tlndiii,di a low Hlliivial (lal in a \,illey of iimliminislied breadth and de|ilh. The hill sides wimc ahsolnlelv liaie, not a tree or slirnb w,is to be seen. The prairie on either sale is .ilso treeless and arid. On the "J 1st, ,ifter spendinir a restless night owing to the attacks of imiltitndes of inosiiniloes, We left ihe cnioe in the hands of our hall' breeds lo Iraek up the sti ram, and aso'iiding to the prairie walked (iir some miles on the brink of this great excavation. We wailed live hours for the canoe to reach u.s, the windings of the stream invidving a course three times as long as a straight line np the valley. T'lie hill sides L'gaii lo ae(|iiire ii more iinposiii',' .iltitnde and (iroliably exceeiled three hundrecl feet. White cranes appciied in lloel;.s o( lour and seven logeilier ; they were very wary and conld not be approached, lear to cither side of the Great \'alley, and it had exeuvated a The river was often seen to draw tier SASKATCIIFWAN EXPLORING EXrKDITION. 59 ohannvl ten to twolvo font (li'0|i in ilu' nlluviiil tliitt tliroiigli which it puraiiod its tortuoiii courni'^ Its hnnkn rcvoiiled tlie following s clion ; • (I inches light vuf{ntublu mould witli aiind, i^. lull .■<|iiinL; rl will'll i.s ihi'ii in tnicl 1)1' llnllt itl4 n to l)c [•S wliii'li tiMi kc(l a liiw aiT, not >l, al'lt-r in llic nilcs on (linp« of 1 r-idcn ciiini's 4 inchiH yt'liciw cliiyi 10 inMiL'i iiglit Vfj^etaltlo inouiii (lormer ii(irfuci')i II tort vi'llow clay, 'i to a inchc.i luird ferruginous iiiiul tn the level ol' the river. 'I'hc Inst liiycr wiih Imrd, loniimct, and very coaisc-graincil. The river i» here 'i- minable and now moiiotonous vi'Mcy, as the air from the marshes on either side of the river was fetid and oppreh-leaved s|ieiii s \\t •■ obsirvi'd. Many of tlicin showed ni.irks ,\liere tliev h.id been t.ipped. The willows wliicli IVinged the banks of tie' (Ju'Appelle were barkid bv ice ei^iil feel above the surface of the water. Niuiierous bulDilo tracks began to appear, and wiiere tin .-"e animals ha. {'Iiinips of .ispen vary its monotonous aspect, and llioimh cliiihed with ereen lu'rbage, due to the lali' abundant rains, the soil is light anil poor. Some distance back lioiii the v.ilhy it is of betler i|iiality, the filler partic'hs not having lieeii washed out of it ; till' grass there is longer and niiuf abundant, but tlie greatest drawback is the w.int of timber. Siir e we have been on llie CJoWppelle we have fVcipieiilly noticed thiinderstoi ills towards the north-wisl and north, in the inighhciurhood of the Touchwood Hill range, which did not reach ii- ; the day belore yesterday. ( :i-'iiil .Inly.) a very violent ihuiiderstorni in the (iii'.\)ipelle valley, whieh delaved lis for scviral hour-, did not wet the carts ten miles to the smith. Hain clouds appear to follow the Touchwood Mill range; the frei(ueiicy of storms in ll;vt region is proverbial, and the richness of the vegetnlion jiroves that an abundant supply of rain falls (Hiring the hot summer months. The Indians who \isiled our camp had been hunting between the two branches of the Saskatchewan . — they represented the season as very dry and the IniHalo scarce. We passed a i(uiet and biendiy night with ihcm, and on the following morning made them a small present and pursucil our wuv to the (irand Forks. I happened to be about I Oil yards in advance of the carts, after we had travelled for about .". ipiarter of an hour; wlien Inuring a loud clatter of horses' feet behind ine, on looking round 1 found the six Indians t;.ill(i|iing ii[) li hind. One of them, who had represiiited hiin-elfas a chief, seized ."v bridle, drew the horse's head round, and motioned nie to dismount. I replied bv jerkieir my bridle 11 2 J 60 ina'ouTs or iiik assinniboink an'd ,i I out oi' llii' liiiliiiM s \m\i\. My ii(Mi|)l>' (i\im> ii|) III ilii iiDiiiriii iiiid aijisls of hliort tiiltid bnlliilo u'r.is*, and the pliilitt) eoinnrm in dry arid plains. 'Tins alUTiioon wc .siw three lins fpriii:,' up between ns and the lii.ind t'otean." 'I'hiywire Ind.an >ii.;iis, but win llier they referred to the pre,eiiee of bnlfalo. or whether lliev were dc-i;;iied to iiitimite to di-lanl band- the arrival of sii-pieion- -lran;,'er... we eoiild not then tell, and not knowiii;,' whether lliey were C'lei -, .A-similhoiiie», or IJl.iekfeet, we became eintious. In a few day I wc aseritaiiied thai the lire had been put oiil' by fiifs, to inl'oriii their fricni!> that lliey had foii.nl bullaie. The '.iiaiideiii of a praiiic on fee belonj.'s to itself. Il is like a volcano in bill aelivily. you cannot iuiilali' it, bo • iii»e it is impos-i!jlc to obtain tho-e ;jiL;iiiitic elemeiils (r.iai which il derives its awful .-iileieloar. I'ortiinatciv, in the |in'>eiil in-tauce the wind wa.-, from the west, and drove the lires in the oppo ite direction, and beiiij; soolli of lis we eonid eonlenipl.ile the iiiaL;iiificent i-pcctacle wilhoiit aiiNielv. ( )ne object in bnrniii'4 the prairie at this time, was In turn the bnll'alo ; they had ero-»i'd the .S.i'-Katchewaii ill '^reat nnniber- lie ir the I'.lii iw and were iidvanciii^ toward- ns. and ero--iii},' the (in'.Apiiclle iiol fir from the hei^lii of l.nel. l!y baniiii.; the prairie e,i>t uf their emir-e they wonld be ili\eile(l t> the -outh, and feed liir a lime on the liraiid C'otean before they pursued their way to the Liltl' .'^oini-, in tiie conn:ry of the Siou.\, -outh of ihe I'.Mli pir.iUel. l'u!ti!i'.' out lire in the prairi's is a tcleLTiMpliie mode ol eommunic ilion lii'ipiently resorted to by Indi.in-. I;s eon>e,pieiiees are seen in the de-iruclion of the foresis whicli laice covered an iminense are.i soiiili of the l^n.-Vpi elle and .\ssiniiil)oiiie. The aridily of tliu-e v,i-t prairies i- partly due to this cause. The soil, thoiii;h li^dit, derives liineli of its appiieiit sterility ficm the a al tin s. In low pi ices and in .-hallow depu .s.-ioiii where ni-,irslie.s are foiimd in spring,', the soil i- rii h, much mi\eit with ve.;ct:ible nutter, and ^llpporlsa very lii.xiiriaiil crovvtli of jfra-s. If willows and a-peiis were permitted lo itrow over the prairie-, lliey would somi be convened into humid Ir.icts in which ve^je- lalile mitler would aceinniilale, and a sod adapted lo forest trees be formed. If a portion of pr.nrie escapes lire for two or thice veiis the n.-^nlt is seen in llie^'iowili ol willows and a-pens, lirst in piilele -, tlicii in larne areas, which in a short lime bee onii? uiiiltd and cover ihe eonuiry ; llni- re- lardiii;; evapoialioii and perinittiiifr the aceiiuuilation of vegetable matter in the soil. .A fire conies, de-trovs the yomii; f irest f;rowlli and e.-lalilishi s a prairie once more. The reelamalion of iniincnse are.is is iiol lievoii I liunian liower. 'liie extension of l!ie prairies i- e\idenlly due to lires, and the (ire- are ean-ed bv Indians, chielly for the piir|iosu of telei,'iapliie eoiiimiinicalion, or lo divert the linlf.do fruiii the eoinse lliey iii ly bi' takiiii;. Thee oper.itions will ceate as the Indians and bulliilo .li;uinl,-li, events v.liie!- are taknii; place with ^rrial rapidity. Wo.id ben.iii to be a f,'re,it trci^uii' ill the prairie after pa-sinj; llie .Moo-e .l.iw.s l''oik>; ve were * A lialiVL- v.\lirc" ' [Mil , ul lire," ttJi^nilics lo M't llu.- pr.iiiii. on liru. SASKATCIIKWAN KXPI.(>Bf«» MEPITHTION. fil ponipi'llocl lo p[o iiii|)|>orl»'«n lo lu-d on thoniKlit (il llf '^*i)) iura iiw iw )tn IiikI orcotcd liii^f skin tl•ll(^, and stivii){- tliviii'd lln'tn willi rini;'* nl' utoiirs pliiccd round llif lime. 'J'lioo (Mrciiliir rrnmiin were •_'."» H-ct in iliiiiiirtt'i-, llii' (iliinrs iir liiiiilili'r'< Iniii^ iilioiit mi' loot in cii'Ciiiiii'iM'inRr. 'I'licy wurc tlii' if^jirrt of gri'iil iintiiinity, liciii^ piirli.illy trovind willi ."ml mid ^rani. Winn tliiMiiiinp ground Wiis occiipii'd liy tlu' (.'ii'i'!*, liiiilirr no doiilil fjirw In llii> viillcy Ixlow, or im tlu' prairii- mid ravinun in di'tailidii ^roVi'M, lor llu'ir pi-niiaiiriit cmiipiii;^ uroiimh arr always piait'd near a -iipply of fiiil. .Making an early ^larl in M'.iii'li of wood, wi- cmiii' middfiily upon linir Crei' leiit-i, wjioii' inniatrii were still la^t a^lpi'p ; alioiit •"ino y.irdn wc>t of llii'in wc loiiiid 10 iiiuri' ti'iil", witli over oO or (iO InilianH in all. I'liry were (ircpirMijj to cri).'<-i the valley in tli.' iliii'ition of llic (irand t'oleaii, followiii,' till' l)iill!ilo. 'I'lieir pron'it feel iiliove llie 1)1(1 of tlie ";reat river illlaiiks ami between i(ll) to MO i ,,it abive llie lil'.di plains iliriiii\di wliieli lliu Sli lyeiine and .lames Hive.' meander to llii' lied Kiver . dm iiortli and llie Missouri.* 'I'l.e vei^itation on ibe (ir.iiid ( 'oteaii is vi'ry ^callly, llie Indian .i r, ip U eoiiiiHoii. so al-e is a speiies of eietiis J no tree or sbriil) is seen, and il is only in the bolt iii« mid marslie^ lli.il nuik lierl>:i;ri' is found. I'liinj.. and lakes ai'i' iimiicidiis on tlie ( irand ( 'ntean side, and il ii probably on ,ii> ;^ eoiiiit that llie biiniilo eros, llie (jn'Appelle N'alley mar tlie Moii-e .laws |''iiik and we-t of IbllFa i I'oi ad Hill Like; indie winter liny keep tovards tbe 'roiieliwood Hills for llie s.ike of sibi II, r, and llie exiellent berb.i};e wlmli ;^roAs in ilir beanlifiil iiiea lows between llie aspen eliimp-. Tbe prairies tbire too are not Ml (ifii II binned as siiufb of the (^ii .\ppelle, tile valley of tliat river serviii;.' as a ;rreat biirier to prevent tlie onward proj;iess of tbe deviist.iliiiL; (lie. We bej; in to lliid tlie fre-b bone, of bulllilo Very iiiiliii roii.j mi tb' urnnml, and here and llien; sMitleil a pack of wolves fe.illni; on a earea.ss wliieli bad been deprived of Its toiiyiie and bump only by the ear less, tlirifiless frees, I'llicalis and dm ks aie SI en in vast niiiiibeis on ilie lake, while on the lii;;li baiiks of the valley the remains of aiieieiil eneampmenls in the fm'iii of rln;,;s of stones lo liold diiuii the .skin lens belli}; everywhere vi.slble. tislily lo llie former nniiiliei s ol the I'lalil Crei's, mid alliird a s.id evldeuee ol the aneieiit pioNe.' Ill' the people who oiiee held iliidi. puled sway from the Mi--oiiri to the .■sa>katehenaii. Tlie rein.iiiis of a raee fist p,i"iii>; away give more than a tran-ieiit iiileriiit to liiill'alo I'oiind Hill Lake. Tbe la'-'^'r- 1 aiieieiil eiiciiiipiiiiait we s.iw lie.s near a shallow lake In the prairie about a mile from the (^ii'.\ppelle valli y. Il is Mirroiiiided by a lew low, siiidy. mid giavilly bills, and is ipiito screened from observ.ilion. ll liny have been a lanipiiii; ground fir lelilurie-, as .sjiue liieKs of dIoiu'.s arc partially eovi n d willi i^ra-s and inilieddid :ii the soil. Al noon on tbe •Jliili we rested hu' a few hours o|vposlte lo a I'vjro eamp of Crees on the oilier tide of llie lake; our sudden appuaranee al the eil^e of the prairie t'l .i dieiil into a stale of tin !;realest exeileiiieni, as eviiieed by llieir baste In eolleetiii'4 llieir horses •. I ;,.iiberiiij; in };rmips in the vallev below. A few of I hi 111 set out to ride round the head of tbe lake, but in the wroiii; direellon, so lliiit the elianri' of their overt iking us w, IS hi ;lily ilonbifiil, as they would have lo make a round of .'ID niilr. ill eiiii-eipieiiie of the intervening Like. 1 bis niagiiitieeiil slu.ii cif water, never less than lull' a mile liiMad and lli iiiiles loiiif. shadowed t'orib wlia ilie l^ir.\p|ielle valley iiiigbl beeoine if u river like the S.isk.ilehewan eoiild lie iii ide lo llow lliroi' ',ii it. .Vs we iie.ii'ed ihe lieigbl of land the pliy-ieal slrneliire of ibis }. .cut valley lieealiie a de ply interesling and ainio-t lAeiliiig siibjert of iiii|iilry. ."so far il bad pri served its breadth and deplli with aslonlsliing iinifoi iiiity all the wny from the .Mission, and we were 'vitbiii .ll) miles of the sonlli braiieb of the S isk.ileliewan. i he hill banks of llie river now lieiMinie «,iiidcd agale, asli-Uaved iii.iple and elm In the ravin, s, siisiaine I, no doubt by the pri'-eiiie of so lari;(! a body of water as Hnll'.ilo I'ouiid Hill Lake. Towards eieniiig we arrived al another Ci'ee eneaiiipnieiil, where we were again Iiospil.ibly 'reatod lo bi'.ileii biill'al.i meat ami marrow fit. Itireli link dishes full of lliat iilltrillous Inn ',ot verv templing lood was placed on the gioiind lieforc us and we were reipiesled to pailake nf il. The Indians look a pici'e of the pounded meat in their lingers and dlp[ied il into tbo soft marrow ; they W( re ilelighlid lo receive a small present of lea nnd tobacco, iind wliilo wc were engaged in tbe lent * Iv\|i|ut:iiiuiis and Sui'vi'V.s f.M- .1 lailro.iii roiilc I'ruiu tlic Missis, iinti li, tliu I'av :fi.' Oci'atl. GiivcriK.f Suvius, yn.v ST. II ;j 62 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND If! i with the nipn, tho jiirls, children, nnd old women came round our carts, nskiiisf if we ha a watch over our horses durinj^ the night, for there were some yoimg scamps amonjt his baiiil who would think it an honour to steal a white man's horse. Visitors came during the evening, and from their actions we thnnght it advisable to keep watch and tether the horses; observing these precautions they retired at an early hour after a friendly smoke. At dawn on the following morning we were I'li roiitr again, and towards noon approached the .Sniuiy Jlills, the valley coiiliMuiii': about 140 feet dee]) ami maintaining its width. I'wo days before our arrival the Indian^ had been running bnllido, and many carcases of tlu.sc animals were scattered over the arid, treile.-> prairie through wbich our route lay. Several herds of bnllido were visible, wending tluir way in -in.;!!' (ile to the (iraud Coleaii de Missouri distinculy looming south of the (Ju'.Appclle Valli'y. After tiavclling through a dry, barren region, strewed with erratics until two p.m., we arrived at the Lake of tlu' .Sandy Hills, and nn the opposite side of the valley saw a number of tents with m;i;iy horses feeding in tJie Hats. When within a mile of the lake a bnll'ilo hull snddinly appeared upun the brow of a little hill on our right. A finer ^ight of its kind could hardly be imagined. The animal was in his |)rime and a inagiiiliceut specimen of the bnlfaln. He gazed ,it us through the long liair which hung over his eyes in thick |)rofnsion, pawed the gre.Mul, tossed his head, niid snorted with proud disilain. lie was not more than lifly yards from us, and while we were ad- niiriii'^ Ills spliielid proportions he set olf at a gallop towards some low hills we had just passed over. Oin' aiipearaiuc on the brink of the valley oppo-ite the tents surprised the Indians; tlicv c|nieklv caniilit tluir bor.'^es. and about twenty galloped across the valley, here (piite dry, and in a (piiirter of an hour were seated in frii'niily chat with the lialf-brei'ds. \\r kindled a fire with /loi.iilf nicln; of which there was a y,\-i ipiantity strewn over the jilain, but no wood "as lu'ar at baud. Win n the men were going to the lake for water to make sonic tea the Indians told us it was salt, and that the (uilv fioli water within a distance of >ome niikv was close to their camp on the o|)posile >ide of the valley. We were tlienline cmisiraiiied to eru-is to the other sidi' and elect our tents near to the spiiiig. Ailvantage was liken of our passage acres'; the valley to make an instrumental measurement ol its leading dimensions. It was loiiiid tn he 1411 fei't deep, estimating fioiii the aliriipt edge of the bank, and one iiiil<' livi' chains br.iad. The diptli below the trcneral level of tlii' prairie is coiisiileiablv gre.iler, for there was a des.cnt of filiv or sixty feel by a gentle -lope not iiiihi led in the liinvoiiig measni'ciiient. .\ v.ist iiiiniber of erratics strewed this slope; indeed it w.is with great dillicultv that we sltered the carls throiiuh the h)riiildahlr acciimiilalioii of boulders which In -el oiir palli. Tlie beil ol ihe (^o Apprlle i~ c|iiile visible in llie valley, bul on aeeoiinl of the jionuis iiatiiic of the soil the overllow iVuin .""and Mill Lake peiietrales it in dry weather, and reappears about half a mile below ill the form of a liitle stream ah iiit ten feel br()anringthe niyht a heavy r.iin filled the hollows with w.iier .ind give ns promise of an abnnd.uil siipplv iiiiiil we arrived ,il llie ."^iiidv Hills where ihe main body of I'lain t'reis wen' enc.imped. On the f'ilowiii',' day, llie 'j^.sili. 1 rode lo the Lye-brow Hill raii^c, a prolongation of the (ii'Miid C'oleaii, and dis|;iiii from the (jiiWpprllc \':illey about li)iir miles. It was there llial the Indians told us we should fuid eiie of the sources of llii' (^n'.Xppelle river. After an hour's ride I reached the hills and ipiicklv cime upon a dee) ravine at the bottom ol which biibbleil a little stream about three feet broad. I loiloucd its course iiiul it entered the prairie leading to the Ureiit Valley, nnd triced it to its junction with the main excavalioii. llu'oiigh a deep n.irrow gully. Tliu Lye-lirow Hill raii^e is about 1 at) feet (ihovc the prairie, niul forms the flank of a table lanil stretching lo the (iiaiid toleau, of which it is the wislcrn extension. The recent tracks of bnllido were couniless on the lull sides, and in the dislaiiee several herds could be seen feeiling on the tre( less plalean to the sonlh. In the aliernoon we bade fiucwill lo onr t'ree liiends .ind tiavelhd wi st on the south side of S:\\\i\ Hill Lake iiiilil we arrived at the ljuIIv through which the stream Iroiii the five-brow hill range eiilered the (^ii'.Xppelh' Valley. It w.is here nine feet bro.iil ami three deep, having received accessions ill a short course ihroiiiih the prairie from the hills whi'ie I had observed it searcelv I luce feel broad. We camped in the valley and employed the evening in taking levels. .Mioul limr miles wiiie, an iiuporlaiil physical liict which we aliervvards veriliid nislriiiiieiilallv and by optical oidol. We luiind llin sireaiiilei from the Lye-brow Hill range strike llie (^n'.\p|ielle V'.'illey eight and a hall miles we led deep, and one mile seventy chains broad. Ihe Lye-brow Hill stream bad excavated a ihaliuel liiuu fed deep in the boltoni ol' ihedreat Valley, and was i'liiied by ii sluggish brook coiiiini.' from the ponds a few yarils from our camp. Water murks on the lull banks showed that the entire breadth of the vallev is flooded during spring. The .Siiid Hills coiiiiinore (111 the north •Jide about two miles wes| (it Sand I till Lake as it .appears In sinmner. They nrc drilling dunes, itiid many of them present a clear ripple-marked surface without SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOftING fiXPEDITEON. 6d any vcfjctiition, not even n blade of prass. Tliey Imvc invndeil the Great Valley and materially lessened it>i deptli. One lealin'e in ils banks is worthy of special notice. Many boidders or errntics are distril)nliil over llic west extremity of siniill hills or ridges into s.liieh the sleep banks are broken, seventy to one hniidred and twenty leet above the level of the Huts, 'i'liesc ridyes have tin; form of loiii;. .larrow iskmds, their loiiffitudiiial axes beinj; parallel to the sides of the valiey, and the erratics are i .posited and nrnniped on the top of each ridge and at their western extremities. The form of these rid;;(s is also peculiar ; they are sharp at the west end where the erratics lie, and rounded at the east end. Till' slope is j;entle at the west end, abrupt at the east and. This peculiarity is a constant feature of all the ridfjes seen <>u the sides of the banks of the valley. They vary in heifjl.t from 10 to 30 feet, and in N'Oi^di from 00 to 1 10 fett, and in breadth from 20 to 80 feet. 'J'hey have evidently some n'lation to the excavating' force which has produced this i^reat valley, and caiuiot be attributed to the lung eoininued action of asmall streaai : however competent runnineiil, in eonseipieiice of the arrival of about sixty Cree horsemen, many of tlieni naked, with exeiplion of the breeeli-clolh anil belt. Tiny were aeeomp.inied by the chief's son, who infiirmed us that in an hour's lime they would escort us to the camp. I'liey were about constructing a new pound, having literally (ilKil an old one with bull'alo, aid being compelled to abandon it on account of the steneh which arose from the putrifying bodies. We sat on the ground and smoked until they lliouglu It lime t'or lis to accompany them to their encaiupineiit. Shortstick had hurried away to make preparations for bringing in ihe bulliilo, the new pound being nearly ready. He expressed through his son a wish ili.it we should see them entrap the buflalo in this pound, a rare opportunity lew would be willing to lose. We passed ihri'Uiih the camp to a place which the ehiel's son pointed out, and there erected our tents. 'I'lie women Were still employed in moving the camp, being assisted in the operation by large numbers of dogs, each deg liaving two poles h,irius-ed to him, on which his lilile load of meat, in- pemiean, or camp rmniture was laid. .Vfler another smoke, the chief's .sou asked me, through the interpreter, if I would like to see the old bullalo pound, in which they had been entrapping liullido during the past week. Wiih u ready ci '.i)|)lialiie 1 accompanied the guide to a little valley between sniul-liills, lluough .1 lane nl In .inches of trees, which are called "lUad men," to the gate or trap of the ])oiind. A sight most horrible and di.sgusling b;oke upon us as we ascendiil a s.iiii! ili.iie overhanging the little dell in which tlie pound was built. Within a circular leiue. 120 feet broad, constriieted of the trunks of trees, laeul v, ilh withes together, and braced by outside supports, lay tossed in every con- ceivable posilion over 200 (lead bud'alo. From old bulls to calves of three months old, animals of every age were Iniililled togetlur in all the forced altiludiM of violent ilealh. Some lay on their lacks, with eyes starting from their heads, and tongues thrust out through clotted gniv. Others were inipaletl un 11 4 i i ! 64 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND the horns of llic olil niul stroiif; bulls. Olliers ngnin which liail hecii tossetl were lying with broken bucks two luul liirec licep. Due iiltlo calf iinng suspended on liic liorns of ii bull which hud iinpnled it in the wild riico rinnui and round the pound. The Indians looked uitun (he e of ibe gallop of ihi' alarmed animals by confederates siatii'iied in hollows or small , powi' liT and bl.inkets I made him with marked satisfaeioii, aiul exinesseil a wish to learn the object of our visit. We held a "talk" in my lent, during uhich ihe chief expiessid himself freely on various snbjiels, and listened with the ntmosl allention to ihe speechis of ihe Indians he had snimnoiied to at lend ihe ('ouiu All speakers objected strongly to the half-breeds' Ininling biilliilo during the wiiilnin liie I'lain Crce coiinliy. They bad no objection to trade wiili them vv with whil.' people, but ihey insisted that all strangers should purchase diied meat or peiiiican and not hunt (or themselves, 'J'hiy urged stiong objeclioiis against the Hudson's I'ay Company encroaching upon the praiiies and driving away the bldraio. They would be glad to see lliein establish as many posis as thev cho.se on the edge ol the prairie eoiinlry, bnl they did iml like to see the plains invaded. During the existence of the two •ounianies, all went well with the Indi.nis ; ihey ohlained ixcellinl pay and eoiild sell all their meat a id pi inieaii. .Since the union of the coin|)aniis they had not lined half so wi II, hail re- ceived bad pay lor their provisions, and were growing poorer, and weaker, and more misnable vear by year. The bunido were tiist disap|iearing before the eneio.ichiuents of the white men, and although thev acknowledge the value of firearms liny thought lliev were fellir oil 111 old times, when llie< had only bows and speurs, aiul wild aiiiniald weru laiiiicrous, 1 utjkcd ShorUtick to iiaiuu llie articles he SASKATCHEWAN EXI'LOIIING EXPEDITION. 65 would like to liiive if I came inlo his country nj^iiiii. Ho iisl<«l for ten, a liorsc of Englisli breed, n cnrt, II f;un, a supply of powder and hall, knives, tobacco, a medal with a chain, a flai;, a suit of fuic clothe!', and nun. 'liie talk lusted between six and seven hours, the fjreater portion of the time beinij taken up in interpreting, sentence by sentence, the j-peeches of e:ieh man in tmii. They {jenerally connnenced with the creation, givin'j; a short history of that event in most f^eiieral terms, and after a few flourishes about c(piality of origin, descended suddeidy to biill'alo, half-breeds, the H. U, Company, tobacco, and rum. Marly on the morninu of the .''0th I retraced my steps lo examine an exposure of cretaceous rock, (iirniiufj part of the bank at ihi! sunnnil level of the Qu'Appelle valhy, while Mr. Flemini; continued takinij the levels to the .South Ihanch. (.SVc Ncrtioiu p. (iU.) The rock is a sandstone, dippiiij; very slif:htly to the south-west. The len;:lh of the exposure is about .50 yards, east and west ; it is covered with driftinj; saml. Near the sui.Miiit the layers are liyhly fossiliferons, and almost whully composed of Aviriilii LiiKjiui'jiirmis (Evans tniil S/iii iird): above ind tielow tiie li»siliferous portion there is a coarse greenish coii'ured sand, inlerstralidfd with brown ferruginous layers. Tlie thickness visilde is about 12 feet. TliC rock occurs at the bend of the valley at iis sinniiiit level; the exposure is perpcnilicuiar, and about o-. El.i. .■AI.i-,.'l liinoKs, Willi Mi)ii,iii:ii'*. UN iiiK KAsr .\.Mi \\i:s'r hidb oi-' iiii; Hunair m' i..\m> i\ rm-. m 'am'Ici.i.k vai.i.fv. About louiteen miles I'roin the S.1sl^iltellewall tlieie is a j;i,i;aiitic erratic of uiill)s>iliferous rock on tin; south side of the valley. It is seventy-nine feel in liuri/.oiUal circinnlerence, three feet from the j^rouiul, and a tape stretched across the ixposed |;ortion lioin side to side over the hifjliest poiiit ineasnreil !t> feet. The Indians place on it olferinus to Maiiitou, and at the time of tiur visit it contained beacU, bits of tobacco, fr,i:;ments of cloth and othel' ir.lLs. At noon 1 liaile far. wtll to .'^liortsliek, aiul joinin;.! the carls we wended our way by the side of •'the Itiver that Turn-.," oici.pyin;„' tin' continual mi ol the (,)u'.\ppelle \ alley, to the .'^oiilh Hianeli of the .Saskatchewan. The carls were ace who watched wiih much curiosity the pro/^res-, ol laklnj; the levcN, and weio very anxiiais to know wliat " medicine" I Has .searchiiii; for wlien sketehinj; tin' position of the ii ratios in the valhy. Now and then a t'lu- bnllido bull would a|)pear at the brow of the hill ffirmiiiir t,„. b,iiinil.n-y of the ]irairie, for a lew niiniile-. and u.illop oil'. The bulhilo were c.o-siii:.r the .South IhMiieh a lew milei, below us in j;reat iiumbei-, and at ni;iht, by putting the ear to the ground, we could hi'ar lielle ow.nils eu'iiinu we ail arri\ed at ihe Siailli Ihaiieh, built a lir e, •(liii.ine d til caiiot , Hhieh had been sully daina^^ed by a journey of illO milis across the prairies, and lai-.lened to make a distribution of the supplies lor a canoe voyajje down that spleiulid river. We vmic not anxious to tamp at the inuuth of " the Itiver that Tunis," in ciaisC(|Ueuce of a war parte ol' lilackfeel I of the Cree Camp, watchinir for an ojiportuiiily to steal who were saiil liorses, and to I ic in the iiei" li.ournocH 1 if possible to " lilt The 1 1 uliaiis wh o had lucompaniid us hastened to join their blends as soon as ihpy saw the canoe in le water ; anil just as the sun set, the canoe containing Mr. I'leinin;^ and myself, widi two half breeds. tiM pushed olf Irian the sluae. The rest retired from the river to camp in the if the party, with the carts and liorsis in chari^e of tin i.ld luiiter, oiieli prairie. where they would lie alije lo gyard auanist a surprise by Jie lilackfeet, en' the thieviiif; propensilii s of treacherous Cites. (ileal | i\caiilions «e' doiibledlv incissiir\ as sure si^ins had heeu ohserveil wiihin three miles o .)! ti that a War pal tv of Ill.ickfeel wen' sk iibiiut. The Crees, always aceuste le S.iiilv .1 Hills. oiiied wlien on t'. Urai'ch to their attacks, merely adopted the precaution of posting watches on the liighoi diir ■ ., about a mile from the camp, and it was owing to the ailvice of Shortsiick that weeinhaiked s>> la'.e in the evening in our canoe. We drifted a mile or two do .n the river until we came to a precipilous dill' showing a (ine exposure of rock, which proved a temptation too great to be resisted, s > we drew the canoe on the laiiik and wutcli ill lui'ii'v. cam] led for the night on the cast side of the river tnak ing airangcments to 66 . REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND The first view of the South Uniiith of tl>t' Siiskalchownii, fully six himilrcil miles from the point where the miiin river ilisembopius into Lake Wimiipi.'jt, lilied nie with nstonisliment and adniiratidM. ^Vt■ .stood on the iiaiik^ of a river of llie (irst elass, nearly half a mile broad, and flowinj; with u swift current, not more than lliree hunilreil and fifty miles liom the Itucky Mountains, where it takes its rise. W'c had reached tiiis river l)y Iraversiiij; either witliin it or on its hanks, for a distance ot two liundred and seventy miles, a narrow deep exc.ivation continuous iVoai the valley ot one j^reat river to that of another, anil exhiliitini; in many I'eatuies evidences of nn <:xiavarni;r force far greater than tlie little Qu'Appello which mc.indered through it, was at the fnst l)lii,li, tlioiiglit capable of creatinji;. How wi're the deep lakes hollowed out ? lakes fillinj; the hreadih of the valley, but dm'ing the lapse of nijes not havinj; incieased in breadlli, |)reservinj5 too, for many miles, such remarkable depths, and allhoiifih in some intanees far removed from one uiiolher, ytt maintainiiii; those deptlis with striking nniformity. 'v\ hat could be the nature of the eroilinij li>rce which duj; out narrow basins (ifly-four to sixty-six feet deep al the bottom of a valley already 300 feet below the sliijhlly undulating prairies, iinil rarely excelling one mile in breadtii ? It was easy to understand how a small river like the (iu'Appelle conlil gradually excavate a valley a nnle l)road and three lnnuhe*hitx. .Mill-, llialin l.engdi of \'aile\ IVom the .South Hraiich of the .Saskatchewan to the .\silnniboiin - aii!) o llri;idlli of \"ailey TO miles from the .\ssiniiiboine ----- Di). do. 177 do. do. - - . - - Do. ilo. •_';!)» do do. .... - lio. ilo. 'J.'):) ill do, - . . _ Do. do. ^-jts Ol). do. .\t its jnmtion with the .Vs.sinniooiiie its breadth excicds one mile. Al its junction with the Saskatchewan its breadth exceds one niili- and a (|ii:)rler. Depth of the Valley 70 miles from tin; .\s-iiinil)oine .... Do. do. ITT do. do. - - - - Do. do. 2.S0 do. do. - . . - . Do. do. '-ih'S do. do. - , . - Do. do y.'iS do do. _ . - . . .\t llie junrtioii will) the .Asslnniboiiie the prairie sh.pe^ to iKc Valley of that river, .oid its ill pill here is - \l ils jiiiiclioii With the .Sii-skatchewan llie prairie also slopes to tin- Valley of llie .Saskatehi and ils depth «.is I'stininted to be .-.--.. I'lil.l, .,/ininiiii //it' limilh. hraiihli. uk ini ilijilh, (irinhsl itifilli, niiil t/ntiiiin /idiii tin .l.^siiitii/idiiK n) //it l.t'Ls in //,! (i,i.l/,/„ll, l,:/lr,/. 7S« 1 1 ao 1 70 •'n 1. 1. - a.'iO - 220 - 140 - HO d ils - .'^40 \ an, - 110 .V.im. <.f l..il>.-. I,,i,Kili. liMUiiil Lake. Ol Kii-w ill- wi-ia-ka-inac - I III. .kill I akc. lu !\a-ua-\ia-ki-ka-i; ae - I'Vhin^ Lake. Ni). I. nr Ca-ki tn-»i-wiii ,. No.'.'. - ,. No. .'t. .. No +, , - l,i)iig Lake .... HiilValo I'oai.cl-liill Lake - Stii.dliill Luke . . - - Ilr.Miltli. D.plli. .MiMii. Ur. iiiii-i- III. ill. tli..ii.i,. 1 .'*i (iO l\ 10 f;o (i 40 :i '*.'< 40 1 no (iO H .',0 (io * (io as fur i as seen. | II, (1 40 ' 5>l \r> " (il 'JS :(! r,'> 41 Kill. .so (i() 4S .) t DiMi I'r.ihi Al.,iilli 111. ill. 1 I L'O .V) lOS 114 '_'0 no '20 124 12 l()S IIM L'O L';l:) .'A) 'i'olal leiiglli ill' the Lakes Kiirr. — 'l"lic li.r:iilll.s unit (d'litlts iire III,' mrntii iif si'\i'rnl iiir« I. •25t) 220 IK) 110 240 20 .',0 1 V The Sccnnd Fisliiiip Lake — Doptli of— Indian Map— Origin ofnaiuo Qu'Appc^lle, or "Who calls Rivtr" — 'I'iie I'irsi I.akf. orl'iiliitawiwiii — (in at (Icptliof Fii'st l.iikc — I'isli— Confiiva' — Hcptli of Valley^ Widtli oriiivfr lljc.'h Watrr iiiaik — Valley HoihIciI — A(Hiiuiils--l)ipth ol' Valley — (rooked Lake, or Ka-wa-wa-ti-ka-niac . — l)liiun»lon» of- l-.tfecis of I'ires — Trees in Valley — lioidder.s — (jliuiacter of the Couiilr\ — Indian Sni prise — Indiuns— Snnniicr lieny CJeek — Diniensloiis of Valley — \ alley and I'laiiie Sci'iie — Canip iSeeiie — Character ol Valliy — Ka-rtali-wi-ya-ka-niae, or Uound Lake — Dimensions of — .Stoiy liarrier — (ir.iiiite lloulders — Little Ciit-anii Creek — The Scissors Creek — Hoek cxjiosure — Grasshoppers — l!i;; Cul-arm Creek — Dimensions of (^uAppelle— Flooding of Valley — Tiu)l)er — Undergrowth — Birds — Minks — Deer — Uniformity of Qu'Appelle Valley. Mil. IJukinsonV: N,\uu.\T!vk. Dear Sin, Soon aftrr paitiiig f'roni you on tlio ini)iiiiii<; of July 20tli, at thu Cliiircli of Kiiglaini Mission in the Qu'.\|H)clle Valley, my instnniients for siirvc'viiitr, wiili watcli, a niafjnetic compass, a lo;; line and sounding liiu;, all arranged tiir ready use, and ii cargo of kellles, pans:, ] eniican, and blankets stowed awiiv, our little catiue eomineiued its voyage down the river. In half an honr we rend'ed the liike, which is generally 'cet. 'The n'.eau of seveial depth- is .VJ feet. It is famous f,,,- t!ie qimntiiy and qi: dity of lis lisli. I'm- three mile- we pa-sed through a dcii e decaying mass of i-niifirnc. which i'.n east wird !iai'. diiviMi to the iip|ai pus v work, but the 1 2 i f ! i I I 6R REPORTS OF THK ASSINNIBOINE AND stocrii'jj by uo luciins so, lor tin hmkIs iil' tlie I'lvpv nro iiuiiiinrriililo and very slmi'p, and llio wnlcrs aWL'ii^ coinid llicni witli <;icit volucity ; ot'lcntinu'?, hut tor llio stroiiLj and drxlcrnus iirni of llic stt'criLuan, llic cnuMo would l^ iif Ix'cn dnslicd a.'; Iivst llio liiidi, as it was lie ronld not avoi .ll.isl.ii:iwi sr/ilsii.. iinnied after a liill wliicli liis to tlie imrtli some miles away, from iie.ir wliicli I'.ev liolli t ike tlieir rise. I took a cross section of tlic valiev here, and fomul il to lie ."VJn fe .t deep and J.-- ciniiis wid : it is, I t'ink, tlie deepe.-i part of it. ,\t no iii, 11:1 duly "J-'lrd, wi! readied Croiked Lake, called in I ii>o K'lW iwiil.-h tm i'\ tllL- ino-t pi.'tlirc- p e ol' .w- (iu'.Vppelle Lakes, Several streams draioiim tlie piairici on liolli sides have excavated do "p a 11 wide jioi'ijes opi'iiiiiij inlo the main valiev which li ro sweeps in graceliil curves, so that Ciookeil Lake seems to lie emli isonied amon^-l hill-, and thus dilVers liMin the (ilher.s w'ii"!i h ive v<'iy n;iicli the appearance of a Ltij^antie canal. Il is a lillle inure !li;iii sl\ miles in leii'.;lh, a lu its inea;: iiidtii ii lline (iiiarlers ol' a mile. The <;reatesi depth I found was OO feet, and ihe mean 1 1 'V i.il souridiiifja was .'U led. 'I'he siiiilli slope, as liefore. is clothed wiih a dense liiliai;r of youn}{ asp ns, willov - , and cloi,'vvood : a ftreat contrast to the opposile side, on which •inly fjrows short and scanty ':ra>s, le.ivlng the irrainfe lioiilders which lie seal! Med over it, cxpo-ed to ^iew; on'v i 1 the raviiie.s and llie deep hollows are SO!,! pilches of younj? aspens and strapgliii,i.r oik.s which h.ic escaped the dcvaslat'n;.; iires. For soiSf linii- 1 lonid not nndii'slaiid why one side -hoiiM lie covere' ". iih uee.'i and the oilier (piite hare, tin- .'oil on both heiii;.; exa'lly similar. iiiMil I cliscrr, .red niiiiii-', 1 lalile cv'deiices of lire, which iiia\ ho the cause of il. On eiKiniiy a.l'lerwarils I Ibnnd thtit Indi ins (i!ii 1 liivel .'lonj^ thf valley ovi ih; iinrtli nftlie river, iviiieh acconnl- for the Iires heiii;,' on tli.it side. IJetwei'ii thi ;;ravvlK iuacii "id the first ol the -.lopes a lViii;;eof will(l^,■^ rans .■■!1 rinind the la'.r- and several points of iow kind )'i\ unl im Uolh sides, on »liieh ';nnv oak. elin. and asli ; nut very larj;i! trees certainly, liiti hi.illliy ami Jirniii;; 1 inkioj;, niid ^iviiiii addition il liiauiy to the laiMiscape. 1 asci'nded a lilnlf mi th • iiorlli side hy a wi!i-woj n di er palli, on which llieiv «ere many liiol- niarks ire|ched away • i i •.■■ (\ s;dc. .:iid as liir as 1 eonid see. llic soil was ,1 l.glit .sandy and i;ravel!\ loam, and in uwv.y pa:'l.> ^ll■ewed will boulders, 1 rallier think llial ■-iKlii- ihe cliaracler of a consiileriMe extent of this section o.f the conniry. As I stood upon the sni'iiiiit of the lilnlf, lookini; down np'vn 'he glilleriiig lake iini' feet below, and across tlin lionnilless jilains, 110 lii nig thin;,' in view, no sound of lili' an\ where, I ll:oi:.;hl of the time to come when will be seen p.i -iiisr -» il'lly aldiui ihe distant hoii/.oii the »hile clii.id of llie liieonuilive on its way Irnn ll .\llaiilie lo the I'acilie, aiidivlien the vadey will re-iani'i «iih llie li.irry voices of those uho have come Iron lie busy cUy on the banks of Ited Uiver lo see the l;e.,!i!il'(il laki'S of the (^n'.\ j'peMe. 'Ihe xieu- doun the valley, while thi' river after is-ning lioiii the lake eommcnces again its slraiige eonlorlion-, w.is doiiblless very prelly, but it .-.heweil ino the trouble that ■.'..IS brfoi'i' iiie, that there would he 1:0 re.-t for eye or r'ligir, siii'h as 1 had when taking long straight courses on the lak( . .Again le •■rated in the canoe, we somi passed out of the lake into the river, the current of whiili for .some in. .\ little wa>' down it, as we swiftly and noiselessly gli.kd round a sodden bend, we were bmne by the current very (duse inileed lo a group of Indian women who were (.•njoying the ple.i.-nres of a lialh, ipiilc as nini'li to our asloni-lnncnt as to theirs, I'ir-t a loud chorus of screams aro-e, and I'len there was a riisliiiig ■ilioiit for blankets and other appa. !, M hieli lliey adju-l-.d with most wondeilnl rapidity, and then aw.iy they scampered lo iheir vigwami laiighiiiii heaitily as they Went, I'leseiitly iikii and boys came trooping down lo 11s simply ,.ri,i\ecl in bl.inkels, some worn in rallnr a /.'v^/'V/f fa-hion, .r the d.iy was very hot. The chief man of the partv, which consisled ol six familie-, invited me !.i the mo-i polih' and hospitable manlier to go lo hi.i lodge and have som"thing lo eal ; but I had to decline a.~ he told me pievimisly, in answer lo a (piention as to how many dajs" join luy it was to I'cul lilliee, ihit we would have to sleep lour or live linns before we icaidierl it, and thii was now our fourth day fnini the misioii ; and, moreover, I thmiiihl thai the interior of a wigwam \.i)iild not he a \i ry agreeable place on siii-h a hot day. While we were spe.ikinu', ihe voiiiig l.idies uhoiii we had so uiiinleiiiioiiallv di>liirlied, eanie down one by one to see us, Allhough ll tliev remaineil beliind the biislu s and leir loilels were (pule coinpic ill I eiKil at lis tliroinili ilie In'.iiicnes. I obi ipiep. linlelliioilally led, so very modest were they, that llaviii'f nlvcn ihe men some them ' laeco. and receiving in reiiun a l.irge supply of I'emhina berries (higli-bnsh cr.iiiberrics), we wished ,d-ln, ml reiumed our jouruev I" d liefoi eh I had lakeii a bearinj; in We went at the aveia''e lale of fuiir miles an hour, for t«o lioiirs aii'l a ha I. ai 111 canipe III till loot (ll a iH'on the south side of tl llic if end of the lake, and close t<) a 1 ik al )ont ten feet wide, •alleil Nipimenaii se| Th.' v.llev i- I le-is, or siiiiimcr herrv creel II re ol ihe >aini- 1 •J.'.O |.i ;.'.l,i(l iei(. 'ihe b.jitoiii i • L-relohj ilf Ihat ibiiiil one iiiiie, and its deiilh is from ed wall willow-, nilerpeiH'd wiili young sugar inii[iles, with SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. G9 lici'p imd tliKio ni) ()|)iii pnttli n( loiifj liixiiriiint jjrasp. With soiiil' difliciilty I nmdn my wny lo ilic U'Vcl ol' till' ))niii'ic, lliroii^li a dt'iisr iiixl liiiiuli'd muss of aspens and lUKU'rwood of willou.s, dtigHdDd, and ro.sc trees; but llie luiiiilv (if iIk' yloriiitia siniact, and the cool lolresliin^' hreeze that came iicross the plains mure than repaid tlie tronlde, I need not try to (U'scribe the excecdini; heaiity of llie itonii had apparcnlly only just then ceased. he valley and river -lid retain their old itiaracler and diiiien>;on» till we cniiie to the: lowe-t of idled l\iiirii/iii!(/n-/iiiiiiiii; or Uuuiid l.ake, which varies fioin one mile to half a mile in width, , The name is by no means an ap|iropriate one, as it is far from being and is nearlv live mili I,. iMinid. 'I'he mean of .-oiiie 1 took \vas 'Jrt feel, tlie gieali>t lieiiig ■,V) el. On the sand hanks which are at the head of the lake, were mvrlads of ducks, and large numbers of geese Were aliiint Iwo and i\ lia about 1 ill everv diru'lion, and a few "real nortli down the rivi'r, called the .''tniiv iJarrier, the C'ree of which is .'isiiii- jiirhtijtitiiiii. I'or al'ont IIH) v.-irds in englli the nv( r nil of lar uraiiite boulders, ■ring it cpiite inijias-able for the smallest canoe when the water is low ; at this time the water was jn-t high eiioii di lo admit of us pa-sing over it. I'wo milii dou n the river from tlii.> sp'it a btlle .-tri.iin bring-; in ils gatherings from the pr.iiri on the s^nlli, rejoicing in the name J.'taiiied b, - - . Th. i-eeonvt ried into pofi mud, very fveral extensive piiteho whero the tniliice of the rock hi it 1 f. (1 till niiicli era( ll kcd, and oi I Hliich no !;i'a-s grows. On le iie.id to bo three inches iliiek, then Iraumeiits vei v small and soft. into gradually but increasing in ,-ize and llardllc^s to a dcptli ot' aboui iwci feet, wluri' the rock is [nrfeetlv hi very much shaltcred. .Mmnl lifiiin iiiili s In the ia>t of this the rock is again to be seen on ihe south slope (d'the valley, also milch brokili. living towards the cast, passed high over our heads, witli- Oii the '.'(ilh ya-l eloiids of L;rasliii|iiH'r I'l" oiil inteiaii— ion, for neaily two hours, h wa-tlie list la lit I saw. ■Jl) liig I'nt-arni Crei'k. or KiilnUs/ni^Ht/iniiiiioKr/ixis, the la-t to be noted, joins the (^ifA) [idle about ile.s f ro'ii its monlli, and is the larue^t of its adi It is '2') feet wide and three ftet de e it i-Mie- tV.iiii a widi' ravine on the north side. The (in'Apiielle fioiii llienee to ils nuaiili is from eight to iwilve I'l et deep, and v mile and a half per hour. width from 70 lo '.Ml teet, and the rati. oi current is one 11 HW IS much ''ooi I h ll.i III llie va llev fi oiii the I'i-hing Lakes to the .\.->iniiih( but as it 13 every spring it is (|iieslioiial I'thcr it will evi r be id' much importance. I'or ti'ii miles lip It tliere is ail aliiiiidance <>l timber, consisting ol a^p birch, ami sugar maple .\c however, exceeiUng i' (I balsam pi plars, elm. Iil.uk ash, oak, ill dianu ter, and lew .- Inch is Very beautiful, is chiilly compi iimlerwiiiKl, u iiilerlwimd with toiivolvnli and vetches. d' (h rose.s, .s, el I riles, am in tl ilge 1" Th: fe bl lie jay-;, and Canada jav? eat their disioi'dant iiole^ tri; laviii"' eaten ii some comiianioiis, c CI Iclllifii ha.-ed lerrv-oiril if tl birds iind I ided parts the birds are innumerable. K I .American uiag|)ii>, liiited from tree lo tn-e uttering Ills were e.dnily and lisilc--ly perched mi ilie dense itieoiis were d icir lavonnti' Iruits, while tin' Ivrai d tl le crows, ravens, la t llu'alclier, wliea alone or with id e.igles, who tried in vain to scape lioiii them. The bcantil'id while-bellied swallow .swiflly skimming the surface of the liver hell ed in addilion |i 111 the valh v. Ducks and cri.wd.d the r.ver iov awwd iniie.-; there I er|ietiially weie I'liough of llieiii, ! i-huiild think, to supply all the n.arkels in Canada. Mil orossiiii; ami ic-crussing the river in front of the canoe. 1 was told that deer arc soniotimes very I a 70 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND niiint'i'ous in tho vnlley, but I was uiily tbrtuiiiue enough to see two jumping deer who were coming down to ilio river to drink, but the moment they got ii glimpse of us awny they bounded up the slnpi'. The only otlier iininiHl we saw was a little prairie wolf, 'logany as he is called by the InuianB, thai was standing by tho edge of the river, and who was so much astonished at our sudden appear- ance ihiit III' never tli<)nj>;lit of running away, but stood staring at us incapable of motion. Tlir wonderful uiiil'iiriiiily of the valley, or that part of it which I have described, necessarily causes a great dcdl of repetition in tlie description of it; so similar is its character throughout that my two men, liall'-lirceds, well acenstomed to mark any peculiarities in the features of a country, siaid tiiat tlioiigli llu y might jiasH up and duwii it several limes they thought they would ofte;i be at a l()s«i to know III wli.it ])art of it tiny weic. The leiigili of ihe valley from the second Fishing Lakes to ill junelioii willi llie valley of tie- Assiiinibdine is 11(1 miles, while llie river itself is aliimt '270 miles long, wliicli will ii'wf. an idea oi'ts exirain'diiiaiy lortiioiis course. We arrived at its tenninalioii on tlie evening if '"Iv "JTtli, and having limilcd up the canoe on the bank, walked across to Fort Klliee, distant a. luce miles, where 1 waa kindly received by Mr, McKay. Very truly yours, Professor 11. Y. Hind, J. A. Dickinson. '';c. &c. &c. ? i S I CHAPTER V. iKo.M riir Ki.now m- riiK sorrii miiancii (Ml till Smith liiaiuli — ('ielaceiiiis--Allilii(le of eX|iii»ure--('lmnuler of — .Seleiiile — I'lisslls — Ciiiiciitiniis — Mi>:i«katiiniiiiii In ri\ — (liMiacler nC river -Drifl — !{(icl> expii-iires -rilmiiis Lijiiite — Treeess I'larie — t'riM' ('aiii|) -Mail I'liits — Unok ivposiire -t'oiieri'lions -Treeles* Hanks unil I'rairie -Low country — l)riitwrii)il—Hi|i|i|f murks — nhiiensions of the Siiiilh Urancli- 'I'lie Moom' Wonils -WiiK r and Ice marks — I'orcst Tiinher — (lianicU'r ol' llivcr — 'I'leeliss I'rMirie - Hmililers — Siiiiiiiliiii;> Hiilliih' Diineiisiiins el' Hi»rr — .\ii»ence of .\iiiiiiiil I ile — "The Wooils" — Kale of (inTeiit — Itonhlii's. .Xinm^ii'inint ol— Anilieial |iavciiM>iit — Tiers of ll.iiihiers — Teinperaliiie — Kalsain ^iiriiee — -Foniiir .\s|nn i'oresi — (iooil t'oiiiilry — W atei-iii.irks — Soaiiiliiif;s— .\li>eiiec of Amin.il I,ile--Slnitilii il .Mini — f'.ill of llivir — (liaiMitej of IJiiir -Cohmr anil reii!|nialiii'e ol North anil Soiilh lliaiich — ihe N'orlli liraiieli - .\li«rniT ol liiih.iii> — (iiiziiy It.ai — t'lnrinl ol' Norih liraiich — Coal falls — Dimensions of .North llraneh — Boiihiir- — frees — The (iraiiil link Tin Main JSiskaleliewan- I'ort ii la (orne-- t'lihie Keel of Water in North ami .'south liraneh ami Main S.i-kateliewan. Tin. lirst roek i xpo-ilie i>ii the Siiiitli liiancli lielow the (iu'Appclle Valley is a cretaceous sand- stone iiecnpying the river liaiik, unconcealed liy drill for some miles. The altituile of the lii(^liest part of tlie e.Nposine is »i.\ty feel above the level ol ihi' river. It is capped by about seven teel of drill, which reposes on twenty feet of soft and easily disinte'rrateil sandstmie of a ])ile yilliiwisli- grey colour, cnntaining a large number of small, Iniglil, pale, yillow, Hjilieruidal Imdies, varying from iiiu-leiitli of an imh to inie inch and a half in diameter, anil eoinposed of sand, lielow llii^ soft siialnm there oeiiir- a layer of sainlstoiie alioiit three teel six iiii lies tliiek. wliii-li is broken into an irri'.'niar jimiiciing onlline by tlw piotrii-inii of a scries of iininense eonirelions, of a flat splicrioilal form, like that of a lemon slightly coni|iressed at its longest diameter. The ((nieretioiis v.iry tVoiii three leet to six feet in horizontal iC&' Krinlile pale yellow ish-firoy Sn nil stone. iisi ('(iiuTi'iioiiiirv liiv^' Siuulstiinc. luildii i USa> O ©. s^i L^ ^jay IlAnl .Siinilstmu' lirulrii'Hl ronns. Siif't SantUtime willi coiicrt- tidiis Cdiitiiinin^j Aviviiia Nfhriisiann. -I Si-comi i-oiUTt'titmary layiT. liiru calcnreous 8An()< witli /frtcu/ij fjtii/utrftrmi*. S^ifl SiiniUtune. Till' Imnkg iif the riviT slope gently from the pniirie on tlic soiitli-west siile to nil iiltiliide nl' unoiit •250 feet; lliey then hcconie iiliiupt. On the north-west !(i(le the siiiidsloiK' elill', viiaing Inmi yo to (iO fcit in iihitudo, rises iil)ni|itly limii llie river, then liillowH a hilly slope to the pniii ic level. Trees, enii^iHting ehiefly of nspen anil the Me.saskiitoniina (la l'(iire), lire found in patches on hotli lides. 'I'lie river eonlinues alioiit hall' a mile liroiid, with niimeruiiN sand-hiiii' md low alliiviiil i^l:iiid!i. 'i'lie diiCt aliove the Haiidsloiie is jjinveliy, and many sniall iiaiid dimes iieciir on the hill bank nlopiii^ to the pniirie, and have priij;ressed heyniid the priiirie to a eoii'iderahle distnnee. A treele-s piiiirie, bouiidles.' and j{ieeii, eseept where the pilehcs nf drifting sand occnr, is visible on either hand iVoin the top of tin- hank; below the river glides with u strong current, two and two and a half ni"i s an hour, lilling the broad trench or valley it has ('loded. The Mesaskatomina berry {.tmitaiiehiir Cdmideiii!^) la I'oire, is very abiindaiit ; shrubs or trees 18 to •JO feel high, loaded with this fiiiit perfectly ripe and of excellent llavonr, are iinineion.4 in eve.-'' grove; the heriie.s arc of the size ol' large black cinranli*, very juicy and sw'.'et. T'liis shvub is tiie La I'oire of ihc Kcd liivcr voyageius. During the inorning of lliis day (."list .Inly) three Ciees from a camp on the east bank came to the river, they shouted to lis, asking us to land, an invitation we declined. About Vi miles below the Qii'Appelle the river becomes narrower, being not more tlian a i|iiarler of a mile broad, but fiilt of mild Hats and slioal>. The banks are more sloping, and IVc(|iiently broken into two plateaux, Ham calcnrcoiu SnniNtonc till' iipjier line hiliig tile prairie. The lower pla- teau is dotted with small groves, the intervals eoii- .sisling of pretty grassy aliMs, smooth as a lav.ii. About l.'J miles from the Qu'Appelle valley the drift is occasionally exposed in elills, which disclose its structure 'JO to .'10 feel above the river. It consists of coarse sand stratified in curves, and often containing beds of gravel ; it is also fre- (|iiciilly cajiped by the ^aine material with small boulders. The dip of the rocks to the north-west, and the aspect of the drill appiar lo indicalo a geological depres>i()n, which may have been the seat of a Urge lake diiiiiig larlicr [iirinds. Some exposures of sandstone appear on the river at intervals lower down, and the drill above tlicin is well stiatilicd with layers of boulders of the same character as the saihlstone below, and so regu- larly placed a.s to lead, when viewed tiom a small distance, to the belief that liny are part of rock in po-ilion. Thirty miles from the Qii'Appelle the rock appears on the soutli-W(>t >idi', and consists of a wliiu' sandstone, with imprcs-ions of fiagments of leaves, anil some brown tiliroiis lii^iiite. .\ treili>s prairie wiili a lew sand dunes foiiiis the cdiintiy on lither side for a distance of 4'J mile-, which comprised the extent of our voyage during the Sill I Hill l.iki'i till' rcil layers nil' HMniliii' iilliiilouically in iIiuhi' iil)st'r\>' miles and a liall' an lumi'. I'll iiiHlli, Tlicv nil' Ircilc I ilic >'<, ami Hii IS till' pianic nii 'i lie liver i> aliiiill liidl' a mile liniad, wilii a cinr( lit in I, liril'teil lice.1 are siiinelinieH ni'i'll mi llic licai li. iiid (iiie iiiiK' was Muiinlaiii'' noliicd tlii." imiriiinu;. Tliey liavc pmiialiiy iravelli'd IVmii llie llaiiks nl tlie Ho.'ky ill's r AliiMit twelve iiiili's rrmii (iiir camp, ir ai\' iiiimirims nn tlie lic>li niuil, llie furrows lyiiij; p nallel to tin iiisc ol llie t, and similar to tliose olitnived on lied Itivi r in the sprint,'. Tl ■| lev are (|ilile ri cell asli-liavcd iiiaple iK^fiiM li sliow it-elf. hut the ii^piii is tiiL' prcvailiii;; tree. 'I'lic womls arc iml (•(miiiimiiis, ami tlic pr.iirie en either side of the river ri mains hire ; il is fast rciiiiiiiinij its liirnicr aiiilii'le. Sand hills are visdile ill llie di>t nice friaii the lep nf the hank. I.a i'nirc is vi ly ,'ihmiil ml and line llivmned. The ixpu-cd (■lill'> cnu-i-t of ri'ddi->h In.iiii, and the rncK is iin Iniii^er seen lieluw thi'iii. At a piiiiii fil'ty-tline inih .•. hum llie I'.lhnw vve iiuide a careful sccliiiii of the rivrr, and fniiiid lis hicadth In he nearly nm-thiid ol' a mile (2M chains) ; iis j^reau -l ile]i'li was ten feel nn llie ('a^t side, lint on the west side there is another chaiiiul will, nine leet nf water, M of low alluvial ivceii a serii As \vi iippniaclied the .Moosc Wood, we pa-^C(l for .cral linnrs hit i-lands fruiii ten to twelve feet ahuvc llie water. They sii-l,iin some line ilin. Iialsam poplar, a-h. a^li- leavid liiapf', .Mid a vast prolusion ni' La I'nire. i'lu' river valley is hnandcd hy low lidl- le.idin;.; In the pr.iii'i'' plaliaii tniir to e 'III iiiilis hack. Tlio cniinlrv lure fnriiid II s an I'M'i llelll (li-,lricl Ini tl (-.lahli-hmi'iit lit a sellh iiieiil. The spot will re we are laiiipid ha' the iiijjlit i-^ an i \li n^ivc, open. iindiil.iliiiL; iiiiailow, with loni; rich i{r,i.vs. and on the low ulevatiolis rose hiishcs in hhioiii ^'I'nw in the '.^realist prolii-ion. ll is only tin feet from the watei'i Ml it duc-i not appear to he llooded in the spring;: wali r-maik.s and ice-marks are now lierc seyii above four fiel from llie prt'sciil level (d the broad rivi r. uiuu ■I -Jiid. - T :)f the Sa-katc lie re;;ini) c II lUnl the Abn-e Woods, which ue entered l.isl iieiiiii'', i- a dll.ilalion chen.in, Ihmiii;' ihroiii'h an cMen^ive alluvial Hat .-ix bre.idlh, and cut inio niiiiieroU' island^ bv the ( li.in;^ili'',' eoiir-e of ihc t^treani. 'I li;s Hal is bounded bv saiiil-liiil-, some ( W'liieh ail' nnlhiii^' more tli.iil >lii:iili,Lr diiiu.- of li.ibini popl.ir. white wooil ids are ill patches, and in the low land ioiii.isl The mall allien climiiis cover t!ie li dl-. lint no liviii_' nmlier ol imporl.iiicc ha- been sieii a- yet, allhouiih many line dca',1 tiiinks aie vi-i'«li', prohalily doir iVCll v (iie. The liver continues to Mow tliiiiiii'h a broad alliivi.il l!,it for ahoiil Iw.nlv-live mih- lis water is veiy Unhid, like lh.it nf ihc .\!i-slsMp;ii. hoMiii^ mikli >olid 111 liter in mci'lianiial Bllspcll-ioll. Diyond the .Moose WooiU the I'aiiks close upon the liver, and li.ue an ahitiide not i \ceeiliiij; si\ly feet. 'I he hr.adth id' th.' -In all! eontraets to 'J.jll yard>. with a i iineiit fully ihiic miles an hoiii'. ps of a.-peli. (ill llic west sicie it ii On till' east bank ill e lirailK^ IS occ.i sioii.dlv wooded with Ircclcss, and show - many -Hid lidU Diirini; tin afleriioon ive laiidi-d freipioully to sin vey the siir- li^hlly niidiilaliiiL; pr.iiric w,i- vi>iolc ; in. my lar.;e fr.;jj roniKlin^ conn trv. Nothing bill a mini- of him .-loiu' not much u..iir-Horn lie on the hilbhaiiks of the liver, w altiliide. 'llie river continue- very swilt, and iimintain-v a l.rei;dth of •J.jil yards. 1 diiriii'' the (lav show liicli i- about lot) feet in I'd a dcptli nf tl II to twi Ive feet. A little liiiibir displays il-ill rc'inciit soiimliu the east bank below the hvel oi' the la.iirie. The dead In oceaMoiially oil ll' biiji'.do are seen lloalin;; dnuii the stream, or loilmd on siiclbar.s ill shallow wall r. The b.ink- expose oceasiniialiy yi 1 ow diil't clay with niimeloiis boulders ; the soil of the prairie appears In improve as we projjre-- i.ni ihw.irds, and the ';ra>s is no loiiifcr stiiiileil am 1 ivilhi l.iltl e raiiid- occur at the bends ol the river, but llu n is always deep waler on ihe ollc r -id.'. .\ heavy tliiindci.-lorni coinptlled ii- l.i e.mil I twii hours bef ore siin-cl Anyiist ."iiil. — The ri ver I- no I mole ill. Ill -ilO yards broad, bill iKcp and swill; the vohmie of Wiiter il carries here, about eiolilv miles from the (iriind I'nrks, is iniieli les-il laii at the I'db, wli! re il i- half lie broad. .\ (1 (loiiht i'Vii|ior atioii diiriii'r its cniir-c ihroimh arid iilains i^ eoni- pileiil In net a-ioii .-i lari^'c .iiininntioii. Iteeiiil w.iler-marks show a li.-c nl live and eitjlit feet, hut iieir the tnp nf the lowest h.nik -Handed timber occnis Iwinly-live feci above the present level of the On biilli sides a Ireele ir.oiie I- alone vi-.lile. Th, a lemarkablc ab-eiiee of aiiimil lilc no deer or hear have' been seen j tracks of bulliiln are everv where, but tlnv liave alrcidy ll to ihi ea-l. T'hi fe( t above the rivi it- are enid, but line, dcw very abundant. '1 he pr.iiiie level it not more ihail ei^litv At rt a.m. we arrived at a ]> irl of the river where il -honed an iiu'i'ia-,e in breadth, it is now about i\ 'rter of a mile bro.al, -till il( tliroii;.'li a ilreiiry treele-s plain fir ."iit miles from onr c.im| ulier which ■' 1 lie W'oods !is ihev are termed, Ik ill! ; thcv cnli-iat of a te w eliimps of iispeii on the SASKATCHEWAN EXPT.ORING EXPEDITION. 7» i;; si\ly II l.ciUI'. (■ it H !■ >m'- I,-.:-- cct III lill-s llv .Ml u M the i rl.iv '. iillil till I'C licHirs mil' lit Kllii.w. U Cdlll- i^t. Iiiit of till' il lilts III the li^lity ;iliiiiit vi'-ililc. ml :iru (';iMi|i, uii the OI.ISIIK.I) .\N1) (lUdOVKll I'AVK.MKM' UK IIIIL LIIKIIS (IN llIK SOI Til IIUAMII. Towards ovcniii^ tlic rotiiitry ln'uaii to iiii[n-ovi', and llio timber to iiicliuk' a (vw elm and hircli. In the prairie are eliimiis (ilie-jieii. On tiie (lats, wliieii occur rejj;uiarly !'', oi" tiie South liranoii, (>7°. The halsam-sprucu begins to appear in groves. The river winds between liigli wooded banlis, witli low points and wooded bottoms on one side : high clid's also wooded with aspen and uprucc groves on tiie opposite liank. 'I'lie flats are covered witli a rich prolusion of vetciies, grasses, ami rose bushes. There are traces every- where of u former fine aspen forest, witii chimps of elm and ash; tlie dead trunks of these trees, 18 inches in (hameter, being l'ie(|uently concealed by tlie undergrowth, olfc-r a rude and stubborn obstacle to pmgriss on loot tlirongh the tangled mass of vegetation which covers the rich flats. A view obtained from a lov.' hill coming down to the banks of the river, continues to show a deep valley K 74 REPORTS OF THK ASSTNNIBOINK AND .ill l^i about tlirt'c i|iiiirtfri of n mile brouil, tlirniigh wliicli ilir rivrr wiiiilii I'roni «iiic lo tide in inntrnificent ciirvcH, 'I'iii- iiiili^ht'il iiiivfincnl on tin- Imiikn wim tV('(|ii('ntly i"'i'ii iliirinn tlu' rlny, with "t "irrow* iind Ncratclii'K. Dnilii^ llu' wlioK- iirirriinoii wr pan^ril swiftly lliruu^'li ii uiiod I'luiiiiiy . '' lUul, it till' III* wt' cuiild jiid^c I'loiii Miiil iiiiil V('|{('lalMiii, lor o'tlliiiiuiit. Inliind^ iil'c iiiimrroiii' 'm h ' rivur, und vsti'iiiiivi' iiliiivlal Hal.'< iKciir in mi u\|iaii'>i()ii nl' tlif valli'V. 'liic wutci'-iiiitrltii arc tt'er . ■ 'i ii luul iiilii- i'c'i't abnvi' the |irt'Ki'iit level. 'I'lu' liaiiK.- >,iii|icllcd ii!< til camp. August .'illi. The early part of the mnriiiii^ waH employed in oxnniiiiin); the mirroiindMig uniintry, wliicli j(uve evidence iil'aii excellent soil, and limber :th of oiir vi>yaj{0 we Imve liceti siirprited at the extraonhnaiy absence of animal life. ( )f ipindriipeds, we have seen half u do/cn wolves, twu ur three bad^eis, scvcrul beaver, >kiink<, minks, lii\ct. and a ininiber of dead bnlfalo ; of birds, eagles, f;eesi', n lew ducks, kingfishers, clilf niarliiis, |iigeoiis, crows, cranes, plover, hawks, and a few of the itiiiallcr birds; but no deer or bear, or li\e biilValo; and if we bad been eoinpellcil to depend altofrether upon our guns for a supply of provisions, it is probable that our voyage of MM) iiiLlcs ilowii the South liranch would have been atleiiilcd with some ineonveliienee and delay. Karly in siiring and late in the iiiitiimn game i^ more alMinilanI, but during the summer scaHon the miiallcr rivers in the prairie>, the ponds and iakc^ which alHiimd throughout (be country north of the 'roiii'hwood IlilN, lo be afterwards described, are the liannts of vast numbers of lupiatie birds and of the larger fuiir-footed animals which now lurin (he .small remnant of the earlier representatives nf animiil life in these wilds, before the lur trade leil lo theii dettruetiuil) either lor the sake uf their llesh or skins. 'riie stralilleil layers of finu mud liefore described wire loiiiid again thia inorniiig 40 feel troiii the water's edge, above the liori/ontal layer ol boulder^ which ban again made its appearance. The siiiall aggregation^ of .sand are still distributed between the thin layers of line clay. A great change is coming oM r the chiiraclcr of the stream ; ils fall, as ascertained by levelling, is two feel three inches in ihe mile, wiili a very rapid current, sometimes six miles an hour. Large boulders are numerous in the bed of the ri\er, bin there is always a passage from ."iO to <>() yards broad, ofii'ii, however, very tumiiluioiii. and for a small heavily ladi iiiil canoi', idugh, ami at times ha/ardoiis. The hill banks are getting higher as we a|iproaeli the North Ibaiiih lial.sam spruce appears in palchet ami -liipe>. The rivir sweep* in grand curves at the f lot of high bllill's, in which line expo>urcs of the ilrift may he seen ; on the opj.osite ..ide are low alluvial points covered with aspeiiH, thick and impenetrable. Yellow clay elill's, I'JO feet high, ajipi^ar at the outside curve of the bends, and where the adjoining llals begin, balsam sprine. two feet in diameter, is not uncoinmun. At hall-past two pin we arrived at the North lliaiich, coming upon it suddenly and finding ourselves in ils waters almost before we were aware of ils proximity. The temperature of the South Mranch was 07", of the North Mraiicli li'J" an important dillcri'iice at this season of the year. It is. perhaps, a fair stiindard by which lo estimale the climalic character of the regions of country ihroiiiih which these rivi'rs (low, in rehilion to ai;riculliire. The difl'ereuee in the lime of the ri|ieiiiiig of fruits on the two Ibanches has already bei'ii iioliccd ''See pige ,'M. par. 'JO. i The waler of the .South Itranih is yellowi'h-brown in colour, and turbid; of the North Itraiu li, a shade lighler. and eleanr 'I'he one more n scmbled the waters of the Missi>sippi, the other those of the St. Lawrence. The South liranch is the larger river of the two at the (irand luirks, .M'ler resting for some lime at the junction of these mighty rivers, the .South liranch lu'ing about lf<0 ynnU, llie North Hrancli 140 yards broad, their currents meeting one another at the rate of three-and-ii-liiilt' miles an hour, we turned our canoe up .stream and atlempliKl to stem the tide of the North Ib'anch of the .'Saskatchewan in search of the Coal lalls. With the exee|itiou of thet'rce eiicanipnient passed during the lirgt and second ilays of our voyage, we did not meet with a single Indian or iMll-breed. (luce or twice, smoketi, which from ihcir being soon answered in another quarter, we presumed lo be signals, and might be ruis<-d by lllai kfeel in the distant prairies, appeared on the west side ol the river. The plan we ailopled one nighi when ilanger wa.- apjireliendeil, was to cook our supper early in the evening uiid then drill down llie river at >uii>et for a few miles. Once only wcri' we disturbed in camp, and this may or may not have been a false alarm. Iloth of our half-hrei'd> came into the tent some time afler we had rilired to rest, anil in a low tone whispered a griz/lv bear,' at the same lime seizing a ritle and a double-barrelled guii which wtie purposely placed at the foot of tlu' teiil ready tor any unwelcome inlinder u|ion our repo-e. The night was d.irk and the tire nearly out. ()iir men declared they bad seen a large animal within lU yards of us. and proiioiiiired il to be a grizzly bear; the alarm they test died was the only jiroof of the presi'iicc of ihal terrible aniiiial, for the ])atient watching of the whole party during the greater pan of the niglil, and a careful search for tracks next morning faileil to satisfy me that we had been disturbed by this deservedly dreaded moiiHter of the Western I'lailis. 'I'hat the grizzly bear is somelimes found far down the .South Hraiich is a well known fact, and he is such a daring and foriniduble iintiigoiiist that proper preeautioiiH are always advisable. A large camp fire often fails tu deter this animal from making an attack, and when a large fire might attract the attention of wandering jiarlies of HIackfeet which were known to be following the Crecs, who had crossed the river some distance above us, it wiiuld not have been wise to have availed ourselves of tliis (loublfiil security. Our camp was at the edge of a clili'; we therefore were sure of not lieing attacked in our reur, uiid the greater part of the night was passed in (juietly watching the open space SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. n in front of uh It wm tlio ileHilv (Iptcrminntimi of the liulf-bru^dii tn wntoli, nftt-r it fiitiftuin^ f tli<* i|iit^>itiiin, tlit' curri'nt lifin^ friiiii xix in M'Vcii niiliH an lioiir a fi'W Ininilri'ii yariln alinvr th*' Korkn, nml ('(iiiiinuin){ rapiil ftir a ili'>lnni'i' nf si'vi'm inili"<, that *ii'in^ ilu' fiirtlii'.-ranil I'lirkn: llif vallt'y i>f tlii' riviT, n> fir a" »<' >au it, ri'si'nilili's In aliimtl all pariit'ular'* tlic la^t ti'ii iiiili"< of llir Siiiiili llraiii'li ; llw rivi'r I'liiinnol i^ iimicIi innrt' (ilis|riii'ti(l liy IhiiiIiIi'I''. anil llif ilt'plli and voliiiiu' of water I'liniidrralily icD^. It is iliiMl'tfiil ulicllit'r in ilH pri'Hi'iit rondition a sti'anii'r ilrawiiipr nioro tliaii tun li'i't nf water ciiidil ait'i'nd il, and in dry srasniiH the limildirs and rapiiU would proliahly present an inHiiporalile iilwlarle, I'lie rivei' «a» lii){li at tlie lime of imr vinit, and aliiint If*'* yariUln'oad! neverllielt'sH in dext'iidiiin; we liail a few narrow esfapeii from mrikiii^; auaiiiHt lni>;t' btmlders jnm enriccaied by tlio water. If 4IIIIII' of tlit'M' were removt'il, iliu thief dllMt^iiltit'rt iliirin^ low Huniiner U'vcIm to stfaiiieri III shallow draft and ^real power would vanisli. 'I'Ih' ehiiracter of the Coal Falls, above the point we reached, is denrribed by tlic people at I'ort i\ la ("oriie It) be similar to the pai t we «aw. The hill banks expose ilrift in which lar^ie masses of eretaceniis rock are imbedded t'onlaiiiiii>{ fish scales. I'raijments nf lignite are numerous, hut no roek was seen in position, 'i'he breadlh nf the valley is ahniit half a mile anil l&H feet >leep ; tho river wiiiiU from sitje tn side like the Snut'. Ilraneh. The Inw poiiils are eovered with aspen : the hill banks with white spriice, aspen, baiikslan, pine, and poplar. .Inst below the jnnrtion of the two branches, aller iliey imiln to form the main S,i>katchew:in at the (irand Forkii, there in nn nxU'iiHivc (lit, tin which the remains of an old post of tlie Company in siiuated. 'riie main .s(a-katehewan is a noble river, sweeping; in ma({ni(icient eurvfs ihroiixh a valley iibont one mde lirnad, and frnm l.jO to 'JIMI feet tieep. We paddled ra|iidly round i'i;{ht points, mnkiiifr a distance of «i\it'eM iiiih'H in three Imurs, and Inwards eveiiini; sinhleil I'nri I'l la Corne, with the N'epowewin .Mi«Hion on the opposite or north side nf the river. As llie description of tho Saskatchewan ami the valley in which il (lows al l''ort a la Corne applies etpially to the river belweeii it and the (irami I'orks, it is unnecessary to incur tlie i i»k nf ncdli'ss repetilinn by einimeralin;; the fcalmt's t>f each of the cij;iit points or beiiiN we pas-eil, and the character of the valley llirniifjii »vhich the river (lows. .\t Fori a la ( 'nrne we made mcasm cuients of its leadini; dinieiisinns, a si elion of ihe bell of the river (see sheet nf siiiion«,) ascertained its rate nf enrrcnt, examineil the clill's, points, and (hits, which are so i:iu'ion..ly reprodueed al every bend both above and biOiiw for iiianv miles, and which wdl be amply siidicient to illustrate the most interesliiij; and important feature- of this noble stream belweeii the (iranil Forks and a short dislanii' below Fort ii la Corne, alter which the couMlry begins tii a-siime a did'erent aspect, and will ri'(|uire an indept'iidcnt notice. An approximate estinmie of the number nf cnbiir feet of water paasin^ down the South Branch, North Uraiu'h, ami Main Saskatchewan, jjives the followini; luindierH : — Cnt>it' ftft per tiniir. Sonlh Hranch ...... lij:»,4'.'.'»,(iir» North Hranch -.-... — Tlic lli^' Hill - liouhlcrs — Limit of Womletl CiMietry Hells of W'lioil — (ireat Prairie — Character of the Coiinlry — Sail Lakes — The ruiit'hwooil Hills — Deauiifiil Cmiiitry — Kxcelleiit Soil — The Uuill Lakes — Flowers — White Cranes — The Heart Hill — The Last Mountain — The Little Touchwuoil Hills — Lakes numerous — Touehwonil Hill Fort — ■Ka-oii-tu-at-tin-ak — Touehwuoil Hill ItauKe — Lon|; Lake — Devil's Luke — (Jurtlen at the Fort — White F'ish in I.ong Lake — Hurnt Forest (iriisshoppers — Winter Forage for Horses— While Fish— Hiillalo— .Meilieine Man — Climate of Touchwood Hills— Huniidity of— Trail tn Fort F.llice— Marshes — Little Touch wood Hills— Chnraetcrof Country ehanges — Depressions— Pheasant Mountain — Character ol the Country— Heavy Dews — Hoar Frost — Cut-nrin Creek Willow I'rnirie— Little Cut-arm Creek— Itolling Prairie— Altr.ietive Country — Spy Hill — Houhlcrs Aspen (iriivcs increasing — Sand Hills — Tho Assinniboine — Dimensions of Valley near Fort Kllice The Riding .Mountain — Kapid Hiver — Character of the Country — VVell adapti^d for Settlement — Timber of the Hiding Mountain — Hiids — Cretaceous Shales— Pembina Mountain — White Mud River— Clmnicter of the Country — Forest Timber — Fish — Luxuriant Vegetation — Lake .Manitobah — Fishing Station — Red River Assinnihuine Prairies — Arrive at the Settlements, The trail from Fort ii la Corne to the okl track leadiii<{ from Fort Elllce to Carlton House ascends the hills forming the banks of the deep eroded valley of the Saskatchewan in the rear of the Fort. It K 2 ff 76 REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND passes through a thick forest of smnll nspens until near liie siimniit, wiit'ii a snmly soil bcfjins, covered with Bniiksian pine and a few small oak. 'I'liis sandy area occupies a narrow strip on tlie lianks of the river, varyini; fioni half a mile to four miles broad. South of the sandy strip the soil clian}{es to a rich black mould distributed over a f;ently undulalliij;; country; the pine fjives place to aspen aiul willows in groves, the aspens occnpyin"; the crest of the midulations, the willows tlio lowest portion of the intervening valleys. On the slopes the ijrass is loM{; luul luxuriant, alVordiny; line pasturaj^e. The fjeneral aspect of the country is highly favourable for ngricidture, the soil deiji and luiil'orudy rich, rivalliufi the low prairies of Red Kiver and the Assinniboine. t)ur coin-»e lay along the banks of Long Creek, which Cows in a smnll depression parallel to the .South ISrancli ol' the !^a^katcllewan, and enters the main river near Fort a la Corne. August lOtli. — During the wlioh? of yesterday afterniK)n we passed through a good farming country. The remains . iiNpeu forests, in which trees of large growth are ininierous, iue still to l)e seen in solitary eluinp--, or with blackened trunks lie hidden in the long luxuriant herbage initil rudely encountered by the carts and horses as we push our way through the rank tangled grass. Itaspberrics were ahuiulaiit in patclies but not yi t ripe; they were fully ripe a lorlniglit since on the (^u'Appelle, 200 miles south. Some of the small aspens near our eami> on the !)th have been nipped at the extremities of the branches by frost when in full leal'. 'Jhe lops of many are black aiul drooping. About four miles from Long (.'reek, and perhaps ten from thf Sonlh Uraneli, a low range of hills running norlh-iavt and south wc'>t, are still covered with an aspen l'iire>t of the ^ one age as the blackened [joles which stand in elmups on all sides. These poKs are from nine to nvehe inelies thick; the young aspens are from lour to six inches in diameter. The lire was here last ye.ir. We have now traced '.he extent of ll-.at vast conllaLrration from Ued lliver to the .South Hranch, and over liuir deu'rees of h.litiide at least; but the llev. Ileiu'y lludil slates, tint in the aiitinmi, norili, somii, east, and west of the Mission the country apjieared to be in a bla/e. The iimni diate banks of Loii:; Creek, with the exception of a narrow strip iji tOe ])rairie south of the (iu'Appelle, is the (Jiily part of the eoiintrv in which we have not recognized tiaces of last year's fire, 'i he animal exiension i>l the prairie from this cause is very remarkable. The limits ol' the woodeil country is becomiri'^ uar by vrar less, and it .'ijipears from the almost universal prevalenci> of small nspen woods that in lornu r times the wooiled country extended beyond the (^u'.Vppelie, or five or six degrees of latitude sduiIi of its present limit. It being always borne in mind that the leiin woculcd coimtiy is ap|ilied to a legion in which prairie or gra.ssy areas |ireiloininate over the parts occupied by young aspen woods. The south limit of ll.e wooded Ciiiintry is some distaiu'-' north of the 'I'oiiehwood Hi'! range, but there are areas north and south of the (Ju'Appelle wliere llie 'einains of aspen forests of large dimensions exi^t, and young forests are in rapid process ol lormniion, perhaps, howeviT, soon to be destroyed 1 y (ire. This laineiilaiile destruction ol' the lorest is a griM' drawback to the counlry, and a .serious obstacle to its futnri; progre.s. It appears to be beyond hninaii power to arrest the annual eonll.igrations as long as the imiians hold so vast a prairie ngion as their hunting grounds. 'J'heir prettxls for " |)ut;ing out (ire" are so numerous, and their eliaraeterislic iudifl'erence to the results which may follow a conflagratimi iii driving away or destroying the wild anini.i'.s so thoroughly a part of their nature, that the annual burning of the prairie may he looked for as a mailer of course as long as wild Indians live in the country. .\ liri' lit on the .Sou'.li Hraneli of the .Saskatchewan may extend in a lew weeks. • . even days, to lleil River, aeeordiiig to the season and the direc'iion and loree of the wind. Long Creek mainlains a breadlh of six feet, (lows eiear and sluggishly through a broad nallow depiission, where wilil hay is as alnindanl as if the whole valley were one conlinnous beavi meadow. I he hnrrows of moles are very iiuiiieroiis; wherever the soil is very rich these little anir .Is are to be (oiind in large numbers; they Conn exeillent indicators of the ferlilily of a .soil ; t' _. are never seen where the soil is poor and sterile. I'onds ami lakes are very numerous: this extensive distribution of water points to a much more Iniinid climate ilian i" in the coinilry south of the (^u'Appelle. August 11th. — .Still the same ey. ellent soil. The burrows of tiixes e.nd badgers have twice shown a light gravelly substratum on low ridges, otherwise the black mould is everywhere ilistribuled. A chain ol lakes, lying westerly from our conrsi', give rise to Long Creek. The Lakes are from 200 yarils to a third of a mile broad, and form a coiiliniious series connected by a small rivulet for a distance of leu miles. A hill range, called the Itirch Hills, whose western (lanks we have turned, is said by Indians to extend to the rear of I'orl I'elly. A vast profusion of (lowers gives remarkable beauty to the large o|)en areas. They generally occur in parterres of several acres in extent occupied by one sjiecies, here the yarrow, there the lire weed, then a held of a species of helianthus, followed _by Liatris sniriii.su. VV'heii viewed from an eminence, the country a|>peared to be clothed with pink, white, yellow, and blue, in singular contrast to the uniforni tint which prevails on the great prairies of the Little Sonris. ( hir course yesterday continued up the valley of Long Creek, which taken as a whole, olfers bv far the most attractive ((■alines liir settlement of any part of the country through which we have pas.sed since leaving Prairie Portage. To-day we (i)llow ihe windings of a shallo.v brook which runs into ihov Soiilli Ihaiich. It meanders through a fine broad rich valley, with hills on its .south-eastern side genlly slojiing towards it, and covered with the de.id Etanding trunks of burnt aspen. The soil of this valley is good, dillering in no re.spcct from that of Long Creek. The (lowers are equally numerous and showy, consisting of the same varieties, and distributed in large patches occupied by a single s|)ecics. We passed to-day near the source of a river which (lows into the main Saskatchewan at the Pas, about MO miles distant from us. It is called Carrot Hiver or Root River, and, rising within twelve miles of the .South Ihaneh, it drains an extensive urea of wooded country, passing also in its course through nunu runs lakes. Thi; ii.,c of Root River within ten or twelve miles of the South Uraneh slimvs that llie height of land between the two water-sheds maintains the same distance as on the Qu'Appelle, and at the North Fork of that valley near the Moose WumU. lielbrc lis, about four milei> distant, is SASKATCIIKWAN EXPl.OIlINr. EXPEDITION. n lliL" Liini)H' lliil oftlie Woods, and tliu niiiKC of hills on lliu nortli slilu of wliicli Hoot llivci' llows liccoiiit's hi'tlrr dcvi^lopnl. 'I'liP Iiircli Hills Conn llic dividinjr ridfju hctwiiMi tliu uiilcr wliicli ilows into lliu Miiiii Saskiuclicwjni and liiu Assiniboinc, or lied Deer iiiul Swim Wivoi'. The vallev l.'iuhiif; to tho Lumpy iliil :il the Woods is rich in alluvial meadows, ponds, and lakes. A view (Voni tiie Lumpy Hill, which I ascended this eveniiif;, is very extensive, 'lliu altiliido of this eminence is nhout 'KHI feet ahove the ■jeneiid li'vel of the coiintiy. From its sninmit an iindiiliitin^ open country, dotted with lakes and (lanked hy the Uircli Hills, is visible towaiiis the e.isi. .Soiilh aiul south-west is a lake rc.uion, also noith and norlh-casl. 'I licse lakes are niinierous ami larj^e, often three miles loiijr and two broad. .Seventeen lai-fje lakes can he counted from the Lumpy Hill ;, hill ranges in several direclioiis can iilso bo dinrming, and appears to "be artificial, the result of taste and skill, rather than the naliiral fealnii'- ol a wild, aliuosi miii 1 ihiied eoiinlrv. Li llie prnlrie valleys the ponds are fringed with boulders, and water-marks show that during the s|iriiig II hirxu Hltil Ik flooded. Tlie great extent of pond ami marsh alfords food and shelter to vast numbers of U(|iiiilli> lilrtU, (irry geese were seen liere for the first time; iho Canada goose is very K ;? 7a REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND iibnndaiit; niul iluck, ten], crnncs, niid bittern, are niinieroiis. Tlu Inkes and marshes nil contain salt or l)racl-li wnlor, wliicli we found to our disconifiirt was not su tabic for culinary purposes, or for sliikiiii; lliir.-t. Toa made from it had a nauseous taste, and jiosscs^^'d the medicinal eflcct which miftht be suppo-i'd to result from preparing that beverage with a weak suliition of Kpsom Halts. 'The Touch- wood Hills seen from the treeless ]irairie presejit a bohl outline srcntly risiiij; from the flat country, and maiiiliiinin!! a comse nearly due east and west for ten or twelve miles, they then assume a more easterly diieeliou; wtslward they are seen to die uwav in the prairie. Ill the alteniooii we bejian the ascent of a irently rolliiif; s,ope at the foot of the Touchwood Hills; patches of willow appear here friiii,'ii)j; small areas of jiood paslura<{e. At (i )). m. we reached the sniiimit plateiiii, ami liien passed throu};h a very heautitui iiiululatiii!; eoniitry diversided with many pictuii'scpie lakes and aspen irrovc, posscssin<; land of tlij best (pnlity, and covered with the most luxuriant heibaiie. From the west side of the summit plateim the (^uill l^iikes are seen lo the muth- west : ihe-e bodies ol' wati r have lonr been celebrated for the LM-ye numbers of ffoose quills which were oceaslonally collecli'd there by Indians, and brouf;ht to the fort for exportation. There is no timber visible on the west side of the ranije with the exception of small a-'jieii and burnt willow bushes. All the wild (lowers so nururous and beantilul in the valley of Lonj; Creek are met with on the summit plateau of the Touchwood Hills, of even larfjer <;rowlh and ill ^.jiealer profusion. Little prairie openiiifis friiijied with aspeii occur here and there, through which the trail passes; we then come siiddeiiiy on lo the banks of a romantic lakelet, in which ducks with their young broods are .swimming, and (locks of while cranes start from their secluded haunts at so unexpecled an inlrusion. The breadth of this heaiilifiil pinleau is about four miles, its level above the .""ialt Prairie to the west may be about tivo hundred feet. Our coursi' lay diagonally across it, so that we had lo pa-^s through seven miles of this (Uliirhiful eouiilry. The Heart Mill, wilh olhers not seen before, come into view as we approach ihe easlirn limit and begin a de-ceiit lo Touchwood Hill l-'orl. The Last Mounlaiii is visil)le in the west, bill blue in ihe distance: the little I'oueliwood Hills lie ludu'e lis, ;he trail lo l''(at Hllice sireleliing towards iheir lasierii (hoik. The comilry belweiii ihe two ranges is dolled wilh lakes and groves ot aspen. From a sm;ill liill near the fori I CDimled forly-sevrn lakes. 'l"oiieluviKid Hill Fort. KJlli AnL;usr. — .\rrived at ilie Fori after sunsit last evening. It is situated on the south-(a«t (lank of the range, and from a hill close behind it an extensive view of ihe country is olitaini'd. Hiarl Hill or Kii-nu-ld-iit-tiii-iilt is about seven hundred feel above the general level ol the plain, and .seven miles in an air line N. 12" \V. of llie post. The general direction of the range is N. ■Jli' v.. It app