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^ - ■Mill n If ,

BRITISH NORTH AMERICA.

REPORTS OF PROGRESS,

TOdF.TllKll WITH

A PRELIMINARY AND GENERAL REPORT,

ox Tilt

ASSINNIBOINE AND SASKATCHEWAN
EXPLORING EXPEDITION;

MAUK INliKIt INsrnUCTIOXS Fill ill

Tin-: I'KOVIXCIAL Sia'KETAUV, CANADA.

By henry YOULE HIND, M.A.,

ri!i>KKs.'<uii OF ciiKMisriiv AM( (iF.iii.oia IX Tin: rxivEiisrry or tiilnhv cui.legk. toisonto.
IX CHAUGK OV THK KXPEDITIOX.

llrri»rntrti to totf) li^ousrs of tl-irltainrnt bn (Tommanli of Wi WAmtv,

August 18G0.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY GEORGE EDWARD EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTISWOODE,

I'RINTERS TO THE QUEEN's MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTV.

FOR HER MAJESTVo STATIONERY OFFICE,

808.

I860.

Copy of a LETTER fi

oni ProfosNOk' Hgnuv Youlk Hind to his Grace the
Diiko of Newcastle.

Mv LoHi) Dlkk, London, July 16, lfl60.

In October last I had the honour to send to your (iracc the proof sheets of a part
of my Report on the Assinniboinc and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition, with topo-
graphical and geological maps, and a number of photographs of the houses, churches,
forts, native races, and scenery at Lord Selkirk's settlement on Red River.

I now res|)ectfully Iwg leave to transmit to your Grace a complete copy of the Report
and maps as published by order of tlic Legislative Assembly of^ Canada, in the English
and French languages.

I have, &c.
His (Jrace the Duke of Newcastle, (Signed) HENRY YOULE HIND,

&c. &c. &c. In charge of the Assinniboine and

Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition.

Enclosure.
REPORTS OF PROGRESS.

INTllOnUCTlOX.

Till" iiiti'iTst Mmiiif(.">todliy tin- Govonimciit mid peoplt; ol'Caimdii in the Noitli- West territory, nnd
|):ii'tiiulai'ly that portion of it tlcscrihcd in tin- luliuwing pagcK, nppi'urs tu lmII I'di- a piceise description
of till' nmniier in wliiih tlic txploratiuii was conducted. An ciiuinci'ation ut' the data and ot' the
sources of iiitbriuntion embodied in the accompanying maps, tjictions, nnd plans, may also bo
acceptable.

A> illi a view to anticipate and salisly a very reasonable demand, I give below a brief description of
our mode of oliservinj; and recording the natural l'eature.4 of the country tiirongh which we travelled.
1 do nut suppose that the mclhod pursued pus^^essva the slightest novelty, or that it is not susceptible
of iuiprovenu'iil, but in view of the wide extent of country it was desirable to describe and delineate
duiing one season of live months, it was, after much consideration and the experience of the previous
year, thought to be the best we could adoj.'.

My instructions, as regards objects to be observed and facts to be recorded, were precise and exact;
but with reference to the exploration of particular sections of country, bis Excellency the Governor-
CJencral, with a generous and encouraging " confidence in my judgment an<l discretion," left nio at
liberty to nuik_> any oilier cxploiation in addition to those specially mentioned.*

At the outset it was agreed to employ certain dcscriptivo terms in noting the features of llic country,
which tlie experience of the jirevious year enabled lis to select, in order to record an accurate
and uniform representation of dilferent objects of the same kind, in case separate ])nrtie3 should be
formed from lime to timet A little experience in Rupert's Land shows the necessity of this precision.
,\ tract of counlry may be wooded and described in a report, or delineated on a map, as a " wooded
country," conveying the idea that timber covers the surface and might alford n su]>ply of that indis-
pensable material for building purposes and fuel ; but in llupcrt's I^iid, west of the Low Lake Itcgion,
in nine cases out of ten, the "woods" consist of small aspens very rarely exceeding six inches in
diameter, or '2b feet in altitude; hence it has been a point always to state the kind and dimensions ol
the timber we saw. The same remark applies to the use of the word '' prairie," and to prairie

* *' 1 am 10 ailil that hi* ElcvUency, having every confidence in your judgmunt and discretion, <!ucs not wish to trammel you with
inoro di'laili'il instructions, nnd that you arc left at liberty tu make any other ei|iluralion, in addition to those particularly named
therein, should you, upon information obtained ia the locality, deem it desirable for the general purposes of the cipedition."— .Paru-
grapli 14, Inttructioni No. II., page 13.

f See Appendix.

808. A 2

y witli Hliiit |in)|iriity bi' npiilicil to tliu IiciIIciiua of tlu>
11 \'iilliy, it would lie wholly uiaiiplii'itlilo to niiicli of tlio

4 UKPORTS OF THE ASSINNinoiNF- AND

countrv ; pinirlrs, or \Auu\t, nmy lit- Ipvil, rich, mid dry, mishiining liixiiriiiiit K>"n«»eii, niid urt'ording
uploiuhd piistiiriifio ; tlu-y may bo iiinrahv mid wet, or iindiiliitiii;j; mid Htoiiy, or nmidy iiiid bari-cii, or
init iind lurlileMn. or iirid mid coii!tc(|iicntfy stcrlli'. Siiidi iiidudnito mid ofloii liiiimilicabli' tcriiiii iw
"linen prairlf," "rolling iiraiiir," "nlliivial prairie,' not iiiilreiinenlly oiiiployed in diwriliiiij? willioiit
lliiiit m lo -pace, the vant iiiipeoiilcil waiten, — ol'tuii lieautiliil ft)i<l rirh, often dexolale mid barren, — of
the gri'iit North-Went, are soiiieliniOM both physically and geolojjieally wrong, and »erve to eoiivey the
ininression that llie large nrens to which they are miplii'd poHcesH, if not ii fertile, at least not mi
Uimindly coil or an arid cliiiinte, rendering 'hnj«baii(lry liopeleM. Alluvial arean are naiially the be«t
and rieheat trattn, and while the term may with »lriit | ' "
AHsimiibuine or [larts of the Saskatchowa

coniilry on their high priiirie baiikn, an<l to nineteen-twenlielln of the mairies or rather plains of
Hupert'.H I^aiid. An endeavour lo n<lhere to a faillifnl <le<erlplioii of llie features of the country,
whellier good, indiU'erenl, or bad, ban involved a ri'pelitioii of teruH in lliecn pages and on the maps
which the foregoing remarks will explain.

Tin: 'roPoonAi'iiicAL Map.

My instructions on the suhjoct of a map of the country were prirJ.He (paragraph II, pagi- l;i); the
exploration was lo bo liinde with refeience to the loiinlnietion <if a map as coniplitc as possible of the
region explored, on a scale of two miles to one inch, and the operatioim were lo bo coiidiiclcd in view
of a possible extension at some future time, of the oxploralion, so ni to einhracu the entire valley of
Lake Winnipeg and ils feeders.

'I'ho exieni of the ilatn upon wbicli (he dc'line.itioii of the map is based, will be seen at a glance ill
the IriNr.iiAiiY. Attention is here particularly called to the fact, that whatever has been the result of
pcrsonnl observation, or rest:< upon nuthorily re-pecting which there can be no (loubt, is marked in
conlinuons lines. .Selkirk .'<cttlcnicnt, showing the limits of parishes, the |)ositioii of churches, and
forts. iS.c., is reduced from an autlmrized instrumental survey by the lion, lliidgon'fl Hay Company's
Surveyor, Mr. Taylor. The original was kindly fun. i-heil lue by Mr. Macl.ivi-h, now ( lovernor of
Assinnihuia.

Tlie dotled lines on the map show those parts of ihc counlry xvhirh wire not visited, and the data
upon which thev are laiil down is derived ehielly fioni the l.iivc manuscript Miip of the North-\Nest
in the Crown Lnnds (3tlice, by the late excellent but iie.ilecled geograplier, l)avid Thompson,* or
from reliable information ohtnineil in the country. While the Itinerary gives ii general idea of the
mode in which the lime was occupied when in the (ii Id, our field books ihemselves contain the record
of every hour's and ofleii if every five miniilis' employment. 'I'hev have 'leeii kept in strict
accordance wllh the regiiliilioMs established at staning,t and they sup|)ly a. fi. 'ul cuinplele record
of the manner in whiili the 'cveral parlies were employed. .\ reference lo any [lart or parts of the
continuous lines on the 'I'opo^raphical Map can be fmnul in the field books at once, logelhcr with
the hour and uiiiuile at which the ob.=erv,ilion was made ; a remark which applies lo the whole time
we were in the field, from llie llth .lune lo the lait day of ('clobir. .Ml portions of the map drawn
wilii a continuous line were plotted according lo instructions, on a scale of two miles to one inch,
or TiTT'-,. i"'d aflerwards n duccd by penlagrapli to a scale of six miles to one inch, or ,-. ..Stt'it'

The SEcrioNs,

The diiiieiisioiis of v.illevs were nscerlnincd either trigononielricidly or by the level and chain, o
The breailtb of the Sr.slwikliewaii was ascertained by tri.ingulalion. Kivers such as the Assinniboiiie,
the Souris, the (jiiWppelle, were measured by a line si retched acro-s, and the depth ascertained by a
aoiiniliiig pole at stated intervals. The depth of the S.i-katchewaii was determined by paddling at
a iinilbnn rate across the sticain, and sounding at slated inlervals, performing the operation two or
three timc3, and taking the mean. The hill of dill'ereiit river.s was freipienlly observed with the level.
Tables showing the leading dimensions of valleys, river-, and lakes, determined by these melhods, will
be found on pages l.') mid (!(( ; of the volume of water discharged, pages ;iH and 7."); anil of the
depth, rate of current, temperature, kc, in the text and on the nia|), where u line of soundings
through the Great Lakes and their connecting rivers is also shown. These lucasuremcnts were made
in accordance with the iiislructioiifl contained in paragraph i-*, page !.'>.

Thk Geolocicai. Mai" AM) .Sections.

The geographical outlines are reduced from the Topographical Map of the Exiiedilion.
The scale is '24 miles to an inch, or ,- , ',7r~„. The manner in which the approximate limils of
formations were obtained, is explained and diseussed in the text. l''or the determination of the
Cretaceous fossils, I am indebted to Mr. 1". B. Meek, who ranks .is the highest authority on this
eontincnt on fossils from the secondary rocks. I am hajipy to have this opportunity of expressing
my thanks to Mr. Meek for bis very valuable co-operation. The excellent paper contained in
chapter XIX., iirocecding from such an authority, gives a value to that portion of the lleport and
Map which will be appreciated by geologists.

* The liiboiirs of this ri'mnrkublo ni.in .nrc only luiw hi'^innin;; to lii> appreciiilcd. Ilii map of the hounijary line. nccor(lin<; t.i ih;-
Treiity of Ghent, between Hriti-h .America nnd the United Suites, frnm I.;ilie Siiperiur tcj tlie Lake of the Woods, is an ailniirahle
piece of \\iix\i. We rec<)<;ni7.ed every portage ns we came to it Inst year, althoiifrb Thompsoirs .Survey was made in ISL'fj. It is mticli
to 1k' hoped tliat Ids nuinerous works, the resulls of thirty yearb' labour in the Norlb-West, will soon be publiithed by the Govenun^nt.

+ .Si'e ApnendiT.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORIN(J EXPEDITION.

Mr. Itilliii^Hi tliu (liitiii|;iiialii'il |iiiliDiititiil(i^ii4t of tliu Caiiailijiii (icnldgicul Siiivcy, hiiH nut only
iletei'iiiiiiL'il llu> Sil'iriiiii nnil Devonian «|ii'ciii)uii<, anil (IciitUhmI Hoinc nesv npccicM, Imt lit' Imi iiUo
lent liiH Inviiliiiihlc u-.)iiiitiuu'o in sn|ifi'inli'nclln){ tlio iin'|iiti'iition of tlio (lniwin){H iind woo>l-cnt>t ol tlie
Hiii'cinK-na n^iiivd ut tliu uliiitf of tlii« llu|iiii't. Mr. Sniitli, the iirtiiit in cunncxion with tliu Guulo;;icul
Survey nf Ciiniuln, Imi uxi ciiU'il tlii' ilruwin^a niitlur the »U|iei'im('nclomi.' of Mr. Ilillin(j[.-i.

The I'iiotouiiapuk.

Arrnti{{oini'nt« Imvc been nindo to puhlifth a niiinhrr of copius of jiDini' of tho plintojtniplw tukca
iliirin)^ tliu (■xplonitlon. It U, Imwovcr, niiuh to Ixi re'.Mrttcl that the nu)<;:itivi'a of tliiHi- tiikin on
the iSouris, iju' .\M-.innilH>iiu', mid (Jfu'Appi'llo wore lift at .Selkirk .Settlement, in diroet opposition to
my expruiHeil wlHlie". All > lliirl to prociiii' tlioni dio'ln;;; the lant luninicr liiia not been .ineci'titfiili
the box in which they were staled to have liieii placed Ii:i8 arrived, but without containing; tho
photographic ne^ativen.

I mil indebted to I'roliHsor llincks of rniveriitv Collojfo, Toronto, for tho nainen of a itmitll
eollcetion of plants illimtriitini; the prevailing prairie llora in nonic fertile dintriclH.

l'nr.ii;raph Nn. !."» of the ln>tiiulions ciilU lor a eliort notice; " It is hardly necenaiy to stale that
" you will ho In Id responsible tiir ihu Cvindiict, dilixemi', ami (iilelily of the puny under you: cliuiue."
To say the l> ast, this i^ a ilillieiilt redponsibHily ; the party, it is known, ronsisk-d be^ideH loyaelf, of
Mr. Dickinson, snrvnyor and eiijriiieer, Mr. I'leniiii},', assistant surveyor and draught.-iuuii, and
Mr. llinie, photographer. The e.scellent lUports of Mr. Dickinson and ^lr. Fleming, and tho mapnat
the close III' this voliiine. speak fur iheiniclvi s : but I shonid i\t\ that ( was iK^lectin^ an iiiipoitant
duty if I did not speedy iiiini' pai'lieiilarly my obli^^atioiis to tlie-ii' j^eiilleiiieu. lioth Mr. Dickinson
and Mr. rieiiiiiiL; coiidncti d iiiiiiDitiiiil branch exploralioos, ,iud it is with perfect conlidence I refer
to their narraiivi'i and reports. Aii.-ociated with them iilmnst hourly since July lis.'i", it is with
inueli rej.net on my part lli.it the compleliim of this vnluiin' cIums niir pi i sent cuniii'xioii, Few bnt
those who have beiii enj;aged in a lesponsiMe wnrk, in a wild and !I-iaut country, ciii appreciate
the worth of eiinscienlioiis, taleiiied, aiiii most iriistwdrlhy friends, and there are o(pially lew wlm can
conceive the pain and iinxicly which the nhieiici.' or temporary suppiesslon of ihesi' (puilities in a
nompaiiiotl la capable of inlliclin<', when circiniuitanco!) will not permit nvuidnncu or neiiaralion.

II. y. II.

Toronto, l.-^.")!!.

s
' (

C () N T !• N T .S.

iNTIid

Cciev

No. I.-
II.

111.

IV.-

HI TI..V ....

.r is-riii c rin\s — Xu^. 1 uinl

v.—

VI..

VII.—'

RErOUTS OF PllOtlRESS.

Liihe Silperiiir Id Ueil River
Mr. DukiiiMin',- Uepon on ihe I'ijjeoii
l{i\cr Kiiute . . . . .

■l''(irl Giory to Fort Kllice, cm the Little
Soaris ......

•Fort Kllice 111 tlie SiiiUli Itnincli ol' the
Su-kiilcln\viiii, llii'iice lo I'Virt a In
Come mill Kill Kivcr

Mr. DickiiiMiii's Keporl en die (^i-'Ap-
|ielle Viilley. Kiisl ol' llie Mission —
Kort IVlly ill the Haiiiil l{iv< r -

lieil liiver Sellleiiients lo tlie .Sail Uet,'ion
(III Winnipego.sis J.iike, tlieiice lo llie
Siininiil ol' the Killing Mountain, thence
to tile .Sriilenient - . . .

The C'laiiilry lOasl anil West of llic Red
Kivcr, North of ilie 4yili rtu-ullcl

It
l(i

•20

ON Tin: (it AI'l'I.I.LK, OK CALI.KWi KIVKR.

I Ai.l

:i_ll

lU. Ill UN Till: i.ir'M'IM'l I.i:, on lAl.r.lMl IIIVKI!, ani>

rni; uivniisioN of tiik W'4 i f.iis of riir.
sorrit iiiJANiii of the .'.vskitciikwan
ninvv ITS VAi.i.F.v, with a vikw to a

111111:1 r STKAMnoAT eojnit VUATInX KHOM
KHIT OAIIIIV, lii:0 HlVKll, Til NKAIi Till.

i-iior 01 Tin; ikkkv mointaix.s -
liohl ill llrilisli ('(iliiiiiiiia will iinliice eiiiiirra-
lion, unil creiile coiiiiiiercial aclivily in (lint
Colony — 'I'he Valley ol' (he SaskiilclieHnii
will heroine 1111 eiiiijrranl laiiil-roiile to Itriti,~h
Coliiniliiu— Aineriuiiiis roHowinir, unil pn-
piiriiiir lo I'ollow ihiil route — I'nlilic allenlion
iliiTcti il lo I, like Wiiinipei; ami the North
lirancli ol' Ihe .Siiskatchewaii, lis a Steniii-
lioiil Route — One result of the (.'aninliiiii
Kxploriii;! Kxpcililioii to the Soiilli lirancli
of the .Siiskiilchewiin — New iiiiinleriTipieil
Steiiiiiljoat Koule to the Foot of the
Rocky Mouiilaiii.s, in a diTection nearly due
wesl 10 the How River l'a.ss — Pnilialile coni-
municntion, without impediment iiinl only
one lireak, from any iiavignhle ])iirt of lieil
River lo the Rocky Mountains— yirAppelle,
or Calling River Valley — Uescription oi: —
Inosciilates with Ihe South Branch and the
As.sinniboinc— Work rt'nuircd lo be accom-

.'il

A 3

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

plialicil to scHtl tho wnlcrs of tlio .South
Brnncli of tlie fSiiHkntelifWRii down tlio
Qu'Ai)i)ollp Vnlley, past Fort Gnrry — Qii'
Appellc Liikt'd — CliBi-nctcr of— Depth —
Abound in Fisli — How the flooding of the
A»sinnil)oine iind Ki'd Kiver in to lie nvoided
duritig spring frctihcts — Churiictcr of tlie
Country druiucd by the Soutli llriiuch —
Climate of the So\ith Uruneh — Great iidvun-
tnge to be derived from tlie proiMJsed route
— Uistftiice shortened 400miIeH — Uoute unin-
terrupted from Ued Kiver to the foot of the
Rocky Alountiiins — Season of Navigation
extended eiglit to ten weeks — Fine Farming
Country opened uj) — Best I'oss in the Koeky
Mountaina approiiclicd — Dangerous and Cir-
cuitous Niivigal ion of LakeWinni])eg avoided

Grand Rapids surmounted — Coal Falls

overcome — Postal Connnunieation along the
projjosed route — Centies of I'opulation —
The South Uraneh will become the eniigninl
route — ImiKirtanee of the Comnuinicalion
from Lake Superioi', fj« South Branch, to
the Paeilic.

CHAPTER II.

I'ARALLSL ON TIIF.

tOHT ELLICE — I'llOM

TUB QU'APPKI.I-K

PRET.IMINAKY REPORT.
Area traversed ...---

Surface Features ....--
Lakes aiul Rivers ....--

Volume of Water in lh(> Asainnilione -

Wooded and Prairie Land ... -

Areas Fit for Settlement ....

Valley of the Assiiiniboine ...

Valley of the Saskatchewan ...

East of the Riding and Duck Mountains

Geological Features .....

Climate -

Extracts from the .lournal at Furl ii la

Come, Saskatchewan River. Lat. oil" ;!0';

Long. 104" 30' W. " ", " '

Table showing the Dimensions of Valleys and

Rivers ....---

4.)

GENERAL REPORT.

fllAPTKH L

)HT (i.MfiiY Ti) Tin; 5ioi in of Tin; i.itti.i;
.sill uis iiivKii — Tiir. .M(h:th of iin:

I.ITTl.K SOUIIIS TO TIIK noFNli.VKV I.lNi; 4(i
Till' Slarl — Supplies — Prairie l{iil;.'c.< — The
Big Ridge — i'ig((in Traps — Stimy Monii-
taiii — liiid:^ — Saline lOtlloiisciMice — Chiirac-
tci- of the Uig Kidgi — The A.-.-iniiiboine —
Grasshoppers — Ojiliuay Encampiniut —
Archdeiicon Ci'ihnine — Prairie Portage —
Cliff Swiilbnv— Thnniler Sliiriii< — Ojibways
— The Piad Wuciils — A^-imiiboiiie i'"cili-I —
Hivei- — Ralibil- — Sandy Hills of ibe A^»iii-
nili<iiiii> — Lnliliide — Diinensions of N'alley —
Variation of Compass — Sand Dunes — Aspcci
of C'onulry — Hail Slorm — Ibilsnni Sprnci —
Pine Creek — The Little Siiuriy — (irassliop-
pers — Ki-^li — Siiuix — Cretiiciiius liocks —
Bine Hill>— Pembina Ifiver — liackfat Lakes
— Vast I'rairi"' — Prairie Fin s — Horizontal
Rocks — Inoci'iamus — Guelder Rose — Lig-
nite — Ancient Lake Dcaches — Sand Dunes
—Oak Laki'— Souris Sanil Hills— Xighl-
hawk — Bog Iron Ore — Floods in 1H,)2 —
Grasshrnipers, Innnile Multitude of — Ap-
pearance of the Sky, of Prairie — Little
Souris Valley — Tracks — Turtle .Mountain
— Sioux — Character of Prairii' — Souris
Lakes — Boulders — Mandan Villagi' — Cha-
racter of the Souris south of tlii' ■.'9th
parallel.

KROM THE FonTY-NlNTII
LITTLE SOL'RIS TO
FOIIT ELLICE TO
UMSION -.-... 52

ludian Signs — Smell of Fire — Tlie Sioux —
Precautions — "Something" — ".Souris
Lakes"— Red Deer's Head Rivtr—The
Great Prairie, Churiicter of — Mirage — Birds
— Grasshojipers — I'ipestone Creek —
Country changed — Forest disappeaicd —
Cretaceous Rocks — Buffalo Bull — Fort
Ellice — McKay — Crces — Hunters — Pro-
vision Trading Po.as — Pemican — Dried
jNIeat — Thunder .S'.onns — Mammoth Bones
— Ojibwiiy Hu;iicr — Hidf-breeds — En
Route for the <iu'Appelle Mission — Grass-
hoppers — Tliuuder Storms — Trail — Weed
Ridge — Kmni-Kinnik — Mode of Manu-
facturing — Boulders — White Crane —
JIagpies — Birds — Dew — Aridity of Great
Prairie— Charles Pratt — Chalk Hills-
Indian Turnip — Qu'Appelle Lakes —
F'resh at rangenient.s — Descent and ascent
of the (ju'Appelle — (iu'Appelle Mission —
Dimensions of Valley — Cliaraeler of Lakes
White yiA\ — Rev. jaines Settee — Garden
of Missii.n — Grasshoppers — Christian Wor
ship — liai>tisni — "J'raying Father" and
"I'riiying Man" — Rnn'i — Indian wishes.

CHAPTER III.

FROM THE gr'Al'l'KLLK MISSION TO TIIK SOITII
IIRANCII OF TIIK SASKATCIIKWAr
Depth of Fishing Lukes — Cress-section." —
Conferva" — Lower Lakes G<" feet deep —
Birds — Vegetation — Wa'er-mark — Third
and Fourth Fishie^ Lakes — l'i>h — Sound-
ings in Fourth Lake — Fishing Lake- pro-
bably laiee united — (Jee.se — Pelicans —
^ F'ourth Lake — Walcr-inark — Aspect of
Valley 'a IH.VJ — (ju'Appelle River — Prairie
— l)«'|)th of Valley — White Cranes — Section
ot Alluvial Flats — Tcniperatuie — Cliaraeter
of I'lairie — Bird.- — Shrilbs — .\ntelope —
Hare — Koses — (iraiiil Forks — Plain (icis

— Teinpiratnre of River — Ice .Murk

Itull'alo Trai'k- — Cliaraeter of Stream —
Willow Bushes— Fetid Air— Drift I'lay—
Kriiities — Freenieii's Ilon.ses — I'lalrii —
Want of Tiinlier — Tlinnder Storms — Tom li-
wiiod Hills — Indians — Tolls — Diplonii:i';. — •
Indian Resolve — The (irand Forks — Lmig
Lake — Souris Folks — Souris of (^u'Appille
and Assinnibidne — Dinn nsioiis of Valley —
The (iraiid Coteaii — I'niirie Fires — Iinliiin
Signs — A I'rairie en Fire — linlValo — C'cm-
se(pience of Prairie Fires — Reelamatien o!'
Sterile .\rea: — Iinlian Telegraph — Seareily
of Wood — Ancient Indian Eiicani|iineni —
Till' Plain Cices — Cree Tents — I*ro\ l-iinis
— Itnllalo I'ouikI Hill Lake— Indian—
Short-stick — Aspect of Country — Cotean de
Mis-onri — l.a.-t Mountain — Treeless Plain
— The Grand Coteau — Character ol —
BuHido — Birds — Plain Crei's, Camp(d' — T!:e
(^n'AppeUe Vallev — Marrow — Precinilions
—The Sandy Hill's— decs— B.ds de Vnelie
— Salt Lake — Dimensions of Valli'V —
Erratics — Iinlian Hospitalitv — Evi'-brow
Hill— Source of tiu'Appelfe— lt"ullalo—
Character of Qu'.Vppelle Valley — Water-
marks — Sandy Hills — Distribution nf
Boulders — Section — Rock ExiKisnie —
Sbortstick — Sand Dunes — South Itrancli —
The yu'Appclle Valley — Creo Camp —
Height of IiBud — Section of Volley — Levels

.'i'*^

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

rf^ ^

— Buffalo I'ound — Cninp Moving — "Dead
Men "—Old Uuffftio PoHiid— Ilorribk- Spoc-
tnclo — New Pound — Bringing in Buffiilo^
Slaughter in Pound — Sliortstick — "Tulk " —
Objections to Ilnlf-breeds — To the Iluditnn
Bay Company — Shorts! icli'H WuntH — Hock
Exposure — BoulderH in Valley — Character
of the South Branch — Loading Dimensions
of the (^u'Appelle or Calling Kiver Valley,
and of the Lakes which occupy it,

CHAPTER IV.

KROU TIIK Qu'aI'I'EH.E MISSION TO KOUT ELLICK,

IIOWJJ TUK QC'Ari'EI.I-E IlIVKIl - - 67

The Second Fishing Lake — Depth of — Indian
Map — Origin of Name Qu'Appelle. or "Who
Calls River " — The First Lake, or Pakitawi-
win — Great depth of First Lake — Fisli —
Confervie — Depth of Valley — Width of Hi ver
— High Water-mark — Vallev Flooded —
Aflliients— Depth of Valley— Crooked Luke,
or Ka-wa-wa-ki-ka-niac — Dimensions of—
Eflects of Fires — Trees in Valley — Boulders
— C'liarncter of the Country — Indian Surprise
— Indians — Summer Berry Creek — Dinicn-
siohs (if Valley — Valley and Prairie Si'eno
— Camp Scene — Cliai'acler <if Valley — Ka-
wah-wi-ya-ka-niac, or Bound Lake — l)i-
nieiisiims of — Stony Barrier — (Jranife
Biinlilers — Little Cut-arni Creek — Tlio
Scissors Creek — Rock Exposure — (Jrass-
hoppers — Big Cut-arm Creek — Dimensions
of (iu'Appelle — Flooding of Valley — Timlier
— rndergrowtli — Birds — Minks — Deer —
I'niformity of (iu'Apiielle Valley.

CHAPTER V.

1 HUM TIIK KMIOW Of TIIK SOITII llltANIil OK THE
SASKATCHEWAN TO THE NEl'OWEWIN
MISSION, OX TIIK MAIN SASKATCHEWAN - "0
I{(H'ks (111 the Smith Biaiieli— Cretaceous —
Altitude of Exposure — Cliaraeter of —
Seleiiite — Fossils — Concretions — Mesaska-
toniina Berry — Chnracter of River — Drift
— Rock Exposures — Filirous Lignite —
Treeless Prairie — Cice Camp — Mud Flats
— Rock Exposure — Ci>nereli(nis — Treeless
Blinks and Prairie — Low Cimntiy — Drift
Wood — Ripple Marks — Dimensions of tlie
South Branch — Tlie Moose Wo(i(N — Water
and Ice Marks — Forest Tlmlur — Character
of River — Treeless Prairie — Boulders —
Soundings— Biillalo — Diincnslons of River
— Aliseiice of Animal Life — "The Woods"
|{ale of Current — BouMers, Arrangement
of — Artificial Piivenieiit — Tiers of Boulders
Tiiiipiratiire — Balsiim Spruce — Former
Aspen Forest — (iiHid Country — Water-
marks — Souniliiigs— Aliseiiee of Animal
Life— Siratilied Mud— Fall of River—
Cliaraeter of River — Coloiir and Tempera-
tiiie of North and Soiiili Itraiieli— The North
Itraiicli — Aliseiieeof Iiidiiiiis — (iiizzly Bear

— Ciirrent of North Jlraiieli— Coal Falls

Diiiieiisions of Norlli Bianeli— Boiildei ■; —
Trees — The (iiiind Forks — The .Main S.is-
katelie\vaii.v-l''ort ii la Corne — Culiie Feet
of W:iler in North and Siailh Braiiili iiiid
.Main Saskalchewan.

CHAPTEU VI.

riloM Kolir A I. A ((iltNK TO FOHT KI.I.K K, AXU
KOUT KM ICi: TO TIIK liKI) lilVKIl BKTTI.K-
MKXTS

Suiidy Strips on the Siiskalcliewaii — Daiiksinn
I'iiie — Fine Country — Long Creek — Old

A 4

Forest — Firos, Extent of — Extension of the
Prairies— Former Extent of Wooded
Country — Efllect of Fires — Long Creek —
Hay Ground — Moles — Humidity of Climato
— Source of Long Creek — The Birch Hills
— Flowers — Aspect of Country — Carrot
River — The Lumpy Hill of the Woods —
Lakes — The Wooded Country — Former Ex-
tent of — Limits of Good Land — RaspbeiTics
— Mosquitoes — The Height of Lainl — Con-
tinuation of the Eyebrow Hill Range —
Valley inosculating with South and North
Branch of the Saskatchewan — Grasshoppers
Character of tlie Country — Birds — Destruc-
tion of Forests — The Big Hill — Boulders —
Limit of Wooded Country — Belts of Wood
— Great Prairie— Character of the Country
— Salt Lakes — The Toiiehv.ocd Hills —
Beautiful Country — Excellent Soil — The
Quill Lakes — Flowers — White Cranes —
The Heart Hill— The Last Mountain— riio
Little Touchwood Hills — Lakes nume-
rous — Toiichwo(Hl Hill Fort — Ka-ou-tn-at-
lin-ak — Tcaichwood Hill Range — Long
Lake — Devil's Lake — Garden at the Fort —
— White Fish in Long Lake — Burnt Forest
— (irasshoppers — Winter Forage for Horses
— White Fish — Biitliilo — Medicine Man —
Climate of Touchwood Hills — Humidity of
Trail to Fort Ellice — Marshes — Little
T(Michwood Hills — Character of Country
Changes — Depressions — Pheasant Mountain
— Character oi'tlie Conn try — Heavy Dews —
Hoar Frost — Cut-arm Creek — Willow
Prairie — Little Cut-arm Creek — Rolling
I'rairie — Attractive Country — Spy Hill —
Boulders — Aspen Groves increasing — Sand
Hills — The Assinnilioine — Dimeiisimis of
Valh'y near Fort Ellice — The Riding
Mountain — Rapid Uiver — Character of the
Country — Well adapted for Settlement —
Timlier of the Riding Mountain — Birds—
Cretaceiais Shales — I'einliiiia Mountain —
While Jliid River — Character of the
Country — Forest Timlier— Fish — Luxuriant
Vcgelalion — Luke Maiiitoliah — Fishing^
Station — Red River — Assiiiiiilioine Prairies
— Arrive at the Settlements,

CHAPTER VII.

FItOM FOnr A I.A CillINK TO TIIK (illAXI) llAriO OF
TIIK SASKATl IIEWAX. — KUOM TIIK (MIANI)
UAI'II> TO TIIK HKI1 niVKK SKTTI.KMKNTS
ril'l TIIK WKST COAST OF LAKE WINXII'Ell

liistriieticins — Ei|uipmeiit — Departure from
Fort ii la Corne — (Jiiieral direction, current,
and liieailth of the Saskatchewan — Charac-
ter of its Valley— Country through which
the River Hows well adapted for Setlleiiicnt
— Sickness and Di>eiiiiitoils — Reiicli I'emican
Portage and Cunilierliiiid lloiise — Deserip-
lioii of Cumlurliiiid — The Saskatchewan and
surrnnniliiig Counlry lietweeii Ciiiiilieiland
and the Pas — The Pas— Christ CInircli —
Gradual depression of tlie Conn liy liurderiiig
the River— Allin i;il Flats— Marslie>_l)ilta
— Muddy l.;ike — Uoek Kxpiisuie — Marshes
iiiid .Mild Flats— C(ili;r Lake : ils Siliialiiii
and Diniensioiis — Siirrouiidiiig Counlry —
I'lie Saskiileliewaii lietweeii Cedar Lake and
Luke Winnipeg — Cross l,;ike Rapiil : ils Di-
mensions — Enter Cross Lake — Aleel a Brig-
ade of liouls — Cross Lake ; ils Diiiieiisioiis
and .Mtitudc— Siwroimdiiig Coiiniiy — The
Sa>kaleliewaii Ea-^t of (loss Lake — Rapid^:
their Dimensions — Snauilh Reach — Ih'ift
I'lay liiiiiks — The (5raiid Rapid : Portage ;
running the Rapid ; ils Dimensions ; Clia-

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND •'

ractcrof its ExcnvntedBed; Miignificciioc of
tlio upiH'r Portion of tlic Ciitaract j mode of
ascending it j HcmnrliH in relation to piir-
mounting tliis Biirrier and nialiiiig the Sns-
katclic«yiii iiviiiliible for Steiim Nnvigntion—
Indian eneaniinient — Lake Wininpeg — Cnpe
Kitcliinaslii — ;~'orinH — Detained on an Island
— Windliound on Muiidand — Tenii>est — Ue-
pidsed hy the Wind — Clianicter of the Coast;
the Sand Beaches and iSwainps — War Path
River — Verifying Kate of Canoe — Tracking
— Limestone Point — Encountering n Head
Wind and Storm — Lightening Canoe — Starv-
ing Indians — The Little Saskatchewan —
Hecapitnhilion — The prominent Kealnres of
the Coiisl — Konnntion of ('M|ie KlU'hinashi
—Limestone Ex]iosnres — Trilintnry Streams
— (leneriil Character of the Country — Indian
Chart — Inaccuracy of the Majts of the Lake
— Depart from the Little Saskaldicn-an —
Windliound again for tliree Days — Provi-iions
exhansted — Contrary Winds — Driven hack
and stopped — The Cat Mend — Windlioinid
again liy n llnrrlcane— Harrier of Houlders
— ICngle — Stopjied tiy foul Winds again at
the Wicked Point — Pike Head nnil Hivcr—
Opportune Supjily of Fish — Wlih' Traverse
to Grindstone I'oint — (irassy Xarnnvs —
Sandy Bar — Arrive at the Selllenienls —
Conclusion.

CHAPTER vnr.

RKI) niVEli SKTTLKMKXT T(i Till: .H.jLTIl (IF TIIK
LITTLi: SASKATCHEWAN, IN A ITiEHiUTKU's
UOAT !)4

Mouth of Red River — Aurora — Weather
Signs — Chanui 1 at Moutli of Red River —
Storm — Ciiaraeler ot' the South Coast of
Lake Winnipeir — New Liind — West Coast —
Conferva — The Willow IsImimIs— Clay (.'lilf-
— Good Land — IJrui.keu River — Aurora —
Rock Ex]i(isiH-e — Deer Island — Section on —
Erpilvalent of the Chazy formation— pishing
Ground — Miskena — (iriudstone Point —
Rev. Mr. Br(Miking — Rocks of (iriudstone
Point — The Little Grindstone Point — East
Const of Lake Winnipeg — Punk Island —
Yellow Oelirc — Coii'^1 near Dog's ll<'ail —
Liiuestoiie Cave I'oint — Eissurcd Rocks —
Jack Pish River— Fisher Bay — The Cat
Heail — Llllle SMskalelKwiiii liay — East
Coast of Lake Winnipeg — Dinuusions of
Lake Winnipeg.

CHAPTER IX.

TIIK M(U:TI1 ok TIIK I.ITTLK
TIIK SALT Sl'llINliS
I.AKK ...----

The Litths Saskatchewan — Height of Hank —
Country in rear — Trmkiiig — Swamps —
Banks of River — Ojiliway Camp— Wliile-
lish — Chai ach-r of Country — Canoe Fleet —
jSpruee — Boulders — Marsh — St. JIarlin's
Lake — " Money" — I'onnded Fish — Wavys
— Fine Land — The Narrows — Boulder
Barriers — Sugar Island — Imlians — (iueis-
soid Islands — St. Martin Rocks — Ih'ach
Barriers — Depth of St. Martin Luke —
Thunder Island — Thuniler Storm — Part-
ridge Crop River — Rushes — Old Mission —
Low Country — Indian F'armer — Wide
Spread Marsh — Kairford — The Character of
the Country — The Mission — Evening Ser-
vice — Rev. Mr. Slagg — The F'arni — Hud-
son's Bay Ccanpauy's P<ist — Rum — Lake
Manitoliah — Progress of the Season — Rocks
— Fossils — The Coast — Sleep Roek Point
— Devonian Rocks — Indian Superstitions—

•SASKATCIIKWAX TO
ON WlNNieK(10-SIS

1(X)

Water-l>cn Hiver — Eagles — Character of
Wiiter-lien River — Pelicans — Indians —
Wood and Prairio Indians — Barter- -Winni-
pcgo-sis Lake — Ermine Point — El as — Sail
Spring — Snake Inlands — Duck Mc itain —
Snake Island Fossils — Arrive li Salt
Springs,

CHAPTER X.

THE SALT Sl'KlX(iS, ON WIXXlPKIiO-SI.S LAKK, TO
THE SIMJIIT OK THE ItlDlNd MOLNTAIN —
THE SU.MMIT OK THE lilDINIi MOUNTAIN TO
MANITOBAII HOUSE . . . ■ 104

Character of the Country — The Duck Moun-
tain — The Si'lt Sjirings — The Wells — The
Manufacture of Salt — Salt Springs ond
Lagoons — Moss River — Rapid.s — Character
of River — Valley or Dauphin River — The
Riding Mountain — Lake Ridge — Hay
Ground — Dauphin Lake — I'ike — Snow
Birds — Journey to the Summit of the Riding
Monnlaiii — Marshes — Ridges — Character of
the Country — Whiskey Jack — (Quaking Bog
— Pilehing Track — Raliliils — F'oot of Jloim-
laiu — Crelaeeous Rocks — Plateau.\ — Coni-
cal Hills — White Spruce — Brown-noseil
Bear — Summit of the Riding Mountain —
Characterof the Country — Former character
of the Hiding Jlouiilain — Denudation —
Talilc Land — Snow Slorni — Source of the
Rapid Rivei' — Indian Superstition — Descent
of Riding Mountain — Charaeier of the

Mouniaiii — Fish — Sickness — Cupping Ta-

wa-pil — Great Bones — G ra.sshoppers —
Journey frtan Danjihin Lake to Lake Mani-
toliah — Cliaraclei' of the Country — Bogs

Aspen Uirlges— Hidge Pilehing Track — Ehb
anil Flow Lake — Indian Tent — Interior of
— Supper — Sleeji — Hulliilo Runner — Mani-
toliah House.

CIIAPTEU XL

MANITOltAIl HOUSE To MAMTdl'.AII ISLAXIl —
MAXlTonAll ISLAND To OAK I'lllNT — OAK
I'oIXT TO TIIK SETTLK.'IIENT.S ON UED

IlIVLl! 1()<(

Mr. and Mrs. JIaekenzie — Manitoliah IIou.se —
Messi iiger — Missionary privalions — Want
of supplies — Comuiunicalion wiih St. Paul
— Fnliue .Supjilies more constant — Snow

Slorni — Indian Summer — Siuiw Ilirds

Jlaniloliali Mouse — Roek — .lolin Canipliell
— Whilelish — linporlauci' of — A'^pect of
('ounliy — The Narrows — Manitoliah Island
— Dimensions of — Oak — Roek formation —

I'ossil Indian Supeisiillons — Fairies —

.Signals — Arrival of Hoat at .Manitoliah
Island -Coast of Lake Maniloliah — Old
iMission Station — Unfitness of this Pari of
the Coast of the Lake for .Sellleinint —
Indian Liheralily — Monkman's I'oint — Cause
of the Fiirmatiou of Marshes — 11. B. Com-
pany's Breeding Eslalilishmeiil — Oak I'oinI
— Dimensions of Lake Maniloliah — Prairie
liordering the Lake — Shoal Lake — Character
of the Country — Big Ridge — Litlli' Ridge —
Arrive al tlu' Setth'meiils — Talile showing
(he leading dimensions and approximate
Height aliove the sea of Ihe Lakes in the
(ireat Basin of Lake Winnipeg — Table
showing the areas and elevalion above Ihe
sea of Ihe (ileal Canadian Lakes.

CIIAPTEU XII.

IXIIIAN WEALTH — THE IIIKIALO — THE HOUSE

AXIi THE liOli - - - - - 115

The Bison or Buffalo— Its Value— Two kinds
of Burtiilo reported to exist by Half-breeds

' *-

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

—The Fliiiii Bnffaln mid the Wood Buftiilo
— Characters of — Former rniige of the
Butfalo — tixisted on the Athiiitii' Coast —
Throughout the Unit ' StatcH Territory,
not inchidhig all »h' ■ . Kiighmd States
Modern range (>'■ Red Hiver hands

— The Saskniehev. ..ands — Whitering

quarters of the J'oiiii-'vesteru hands of
HuflTalo — Summer ranges — Systemalie Mi-
gration of — ItuHiilo Hunt — Genius of Ked
Kiver IIalf-l)reed Hunt— Blind. Butfalo—
Crossing of Buffalo with Donu'slieated
Cattle — Charai'ter of Mixed Breeds — The
Horse — Training of Horses — Uoeility of —
lllustraticnis — Allaehinent of Indians to
their Horses — Hoppiiigs — Smokes — The
Uog — Its uses — Tlie Midnight Howl — Dog
Feasts — Dogs at the H.B. Posts — Voracity
of^ — Cross with the Wolf — Saerilieo of
Dogs,

CHAPTKH XIII.

INDIAN ANTKillTll'.S SlIPKIiSTmoXS AND

1 irsToMs — itKi.ATiiixsmi' AM> KlNma;!)

XI Mlll;US AND IHSrllllllTKIX

Harity of liulian Antiipiities in the Valley of
tlu' Saskateliewan — Mandan Houses —
Tnnnili on Hainy Kiver — Pottery — Mr.
SeliooleratVs views — liit*'i'niarriiige of
Trilies — Country of ihi' Ojlhway — Scalp
D.inci's — Wood anil Prairie Indians —
lii'llnn pniiishniint — Tn'ulment of Pri-
soners — Conjurors — ('(nijnror's Song — In-
enntiilion-* — 'I'lie lin|i|iy HiimiIiil.' (iroiiiidi

— Intluiiii'i' of the CoujurcMs — Tjic Hailger

— llaiMitcil Holes anil Caves — Saeriliees
and (tlli'riugs — Trealnu'iil of Wives — l)e-
eoraliiins — Ties of Kindred ami liehilion-
ship ; Illiislratii>iis — Hi'lationsliip among
till' li'i)i|Uiiis — Census of Indians^Xumhi'r
lit' liiilians ti'i'i|nentiug H.B. Cnmpanv's
Po-ls — .Indians of the Saskateliewan Valley
— Klaekfiet Trilies — As-^lnnlboine — Crees
— Sioux or Dakotidis — Trihes of — Con-
Jurors — Wicks — I.anguiigr — Cunnnon and
.Sacred — Cliaiactcr of Language — Ithick-
fcet Imlians — Census of — Trihis of —
Ciiniitry iiihahilcil liy Ithiekfct.

( HAPTKR XIV.

\ IIIK, liUllltN iir IIIK. VAI.I.F.V of TIIK
t>>l 'AI'fl'.l.t.F, AXK UN TltK lUSl'llSI ril)\

or siiMf: iir riii; luiiir ux mi, siu rii

111! VXni UK Tlir. SASKA Tl IIKWAX -

Di |iics>liiii ipf the Coiinliy iu the liegion of
the Mnii-e Wiioils — Kiii.iiili of llic (jn'.Vp-
pi'llc Valley— St reams enter the (jii'.Vppelle
Valley at right angles^Breadth of the
\ alley ihrougliout — Ulilges with Itoulders
— Origin of — Depth of the Kisliing Lakes
— .Vncicnt Lake — Krosiun of Main Sa>kal-
I'hcwaii — I'eculiarity in the Lakes of the
tiu'.Vppelle — llaek-Fal Creek — Possllile
Origin of (^u'Appille N'alley— I'liriucr lied
of a Uiver, hefure the last -uliiiicrgence of
n Continent — .Vncicnt Kiver Valleys— Dr.
Hilchcock's r.nuineraliiin of — llliislratioiis
— The Si. Lawrenci — -The Ottawa — liould-
els in the Drill of the Saskatchewan — lioulil-
ers in the Ithie Clay of Toronto — pureed
Arrangement of — Mode in which .Surfaces
in the IlliieClay were exposed — Position of
the nine Clay — Lower and I'pper Ithie
Clay — Disposiliiiu nf the Itoiilders and
pragiiicnts of Shale — Illuslratioiisof — Drift
ill Can.iila — Section of Drift — Discussion
uf the Mode iu which the Boulduru and

Shale acquired a forced nrrangcment —
Thrown down ii .Siiha(|ueoiis Bank — t)l)-
Jeclions to— Sortiug of Muteriiils — Agency
of lee.

CHAPTKK XV.

CI.IMATK OK A I'O iTIuN eiK lilTKUT's r.AXl>
Climate of tin Lanieiitides and the Prairies
— Frozen Lakes — .M<Min Annual Tempera-
ture — Arid and Ilnuiid Kegion — Sources
of Hnniidity, Cause of Aridity West of the
98th Meridian — Iiilliience of the Gulf of
Mexico — Kocky Moniitain System — Mis-
sis»ip|)i Valley — Arid Kegion of the United
States— Humid Kegion of the Valley of
Lake Winnipeg — Causes of — Klevation of
the Country — Humid I'acilic Winds —
North-easterly Current — The Arid Kegion
— Prevailing Winds — Source of the Hu-
midity — Hail Storms — Thunder Storms in
1858 — Progress of Duni —Summer Sur-
face Wind — Kocky Mountain Plateau — De-
pression in — Tahle of Klevation of Plateau
and Passes — Imiiortance of Capt. Palliser's
1 1!) Discoveries — Seasons of the Valley of Lake
Winnipeg — Meteorology of Ked Kiver —
Winter Temperatnivs — Winter Tempera-
tures at Jloiitreal — Cold Terms — Qiiehei'
Temperatures — Climate of the South
Branch of the Saskateliewan — Limit of
Pcruianenlly Frozen Soil — (iiowtli of
Kole,-ts — Tail of the Piairies — Prairies
ciiiiverlcd into I''orc>t Land in Missouri —
Seasons nil the .Main SiisUatcliewan — .\l
I'ort a la Cunie — .\i Cumiicrlauil Mouse —
At Carlton House — \t Ked Kiver— Cha-
racter of the (ireat Plains in the Ciiilcd
States — .Major Kmoiy's Stateniciit — Au-
rora.s — Oct. and — Oct'. 27th — Colonel Le-
froy's Oliscrvalion,— -Vlliluile ol' Auroras
— CmineNinn w iili the Atmosphere — Sound
• — Sir .Iiilm Kicliai'il.'-oirs (iliM'rvalions —
The Twiliglit How — Talile showing the
nnmlicr of days on which rain fell, with
the cliaiacter ol' thunder storms during
the Summer of 18J8, in the \'alley of the
Assiniiiliiiine and Saskatchewan — Tahle
showing the clevaliiin anil hreadlh of the
Plateau on which the Kocky Jlonntain
ranges rest, and the lieii;lil aliove thcOi'i 'in
111' the lowest Pas-es, from the ;i2ijil parallel
111 tlicolst paiallel, Norili Laliliiilc--Coin-
parison nf the meiiiiiuliijry uf Ked Kiver
Selllemeiil willi Tdrnnlii, Canada West,
wilh rel'i'ieiice to Mean Teliiperaliii e, depth
of Kain and Snow, I'roni ciiiTespondiug Oh-
scrMitions at lioth Stations, fiiun .Iiine,
Is.')."), to May. IS.Vi, inclusive — Low Tcni-
peralurcs at Isle .le-iis, Canada Kast —
Kxtracls from a .lonrnal at Port :i la Corne,
on the .Main Saskateliewan, Lat. iili^ 30',
1 g. 104' ;!0.

PJS

133

ITINEKAllY.

(I.) From Fort (iarry south-westward to
the 4!lth parallel, rii'i the .Vssinnilioine
and the Lillle Sonii< - - - It!)

(,11.) From Keil Deer's Head Kiver— a lew
miles Minlh of the inler.si'ction of the
lioiiiulaiy line and the Little .Sonris —
noi'thwaril to Fori Kllice ... 1 jl

(HI.)Friiiii Fort Kllice wistward lo the

t^ii'Appellc .Mission .... 1,52

(IV.) From the (Jn'Appelle .Mission wist-
ward 141 the clliow ol the Soiitli Iliancli
of the Saskalclicwan rit'i the (^ifAji-
[iclle Kivcr and Valliy ... 103

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

(V.) From the Qii'ApiM'llo Mitisioii fiistwnnl
to Fort blliee via tlie (ia'Appi'llu

lUvir 155

(VI.) Fniiii Fort Kllicc iioilli-wrslwmil, to
Foil IVIIv anil Swiiii HiviT, via tlif
wi'st !<i<U! of tlic Ansiiinilioim' - - 15G
(VII.) From " the Hivcr tliat Tuiiij'," iioilli-
cilslward, to Koi-I a la t'oriic, via llio
South HiHiicli of the SiiMkatclifwaii - 157

(VIII.) From Fort IVllv, »oiilh-wi'ntwaril to

the Little SaskHti'hi'wan or KapUl Uiver,

via the tlunkrt of tho Oiiek iiiiil Kiillii<r

Mountains — iIumicc along Iho Rapid

Uivrr fnnn the suniniit of tho Uicliii},'

Mountain to tlic AssinnilMiinc — thfiu't'

• hack to the intersection of the Lower

Trail iind the Little Saskat;.'howan - I5S

(IX.) From tlu' Little Saskatehownn Foi<l

westward to Fort Ellice via the Lower

Trail - - - -, - - lOO

(X.) From Fort u hi t'oriie r-oMth-westwiirtl

to the " Linnpv Hill of the Woods" —

theiK'e sonth-easlward to Touchwood

Hills and Fort Kllicc rin the Carlton

Trail llil

(XI.) From Fort KUiee easlwanl lo Prairie
Fortune and Selkirk Settlement via the
While Mu<l Uiver Trail - - - 1(J3
(XH.) Fr<im Fort ii la Come to Sc'lkirk Set-
tlement via the Main Saskatchewan
and tin' west coast of Lake Winnipeg - Kit

(XIH.)From Selkirk Setllenn'nt sontli-east-
wanl lownrds I.aki' of the Woods and
liai'k via La Hiviere Seine or (lerinan
Creek KiT

iXlV.jKiuin lied Ui\er wr-lward alun^r La
Uiviere Sale — iheiiee sontli-wesi ward
to I'emliina Mountain — llienee across
ihc' Itliie Hills of the Sonris — ihence
ai'i'oss the Assiiiiiilioine to I'rairie

Forlafi. l(>y

(XV.) From Selkirk SetlliMueiil to the Salt
Sprin^fs nn Wiiniipe<io-sis Lake and the
sunnnit i>f ihi' Itidiii;; .Mountain, rtV/ the
wi'-l <iiasl of Lake Winnipej.', the Lilth-
Sa-kalehewan nr Dauphin Hiver, St.
.Marl ill's Lake, I'aitridfre Crop l{iver,
Miiiiiluhah Lake, Water-hen Kiver and
Lake, Wiijnipe^'o-«is Lake, .Moss Uiver
and Dauphin Lake . . - . 171

(X VI.) I'roni the siiminil of llie Uidiii;; .Moun-
tain to .Miiiiilohali House and Island - 174

(XVI!.) Fripin Dau]iliin Lake to Oak I'oint on
Lake Maiiiloliali, thence In Selkirk
Siett lenient - - - -17.5

Tiiblu of Dislanee^ from Foil (jaiiy lo imjioilant

I'oiiils in Kuperl's Land . . - |7()

Epitome of E.\ploration.>- and Surveys of this
K.xpedillon in Kuperl's Lund, or the
North-we>l Teirilorv, Intweeii the I'liiled
Sl.ile- Froniier ( Ulth parallel) and hiti-
liide 1." Nmlli ; and hetween loii;.'itnde
iM)^ and 107 \\'i-{ <d' (.Jreenwieli, iiol in-
cludiii'' laleral iravcrsen - . - I77

OEOLOdlCAJi KEl'ORT.
CHAl'TKIi XVL

SUUIACK i.KOl.lKiV Of A I'Alir oK TIIK VALI.KV Ol'

I.AKi: WlN.NIl'Kli . - - - - 17

vMirailed, I'oli.-heil, and (irooved Kocks on
liaril Porla';e — Siurjfeon Laki — On the
Winnipej; — Lakes .Manitoliah and Winni-
pe)io-sis — Polished Paveinent on the South
lirunvU — Krrutics on the (ju'Appdk', ut ihu

MooHO Woo(1b, on Cut-Arm Creek, ABHiinii-
boine, West of MisHiBnippi, on tho Sonris —
Benches between Liike.s Superior and Win-
iiipejs — Great Do^ Porliiffi! Clmracterof—
.Siind Hank — Section of— Dr. Hitchcock'.s
views — Heiich at Prairie Portiifre — Portajre
do Millicn— The Big Uiilge on Ued Kiver —
On the Assiiiiiihoine — NcarDanphin Lake—
Peinhimi Mountain — Lines of Boulders — On
South Branch — On St. Miu'lin's and Mani-
lobali Lake — Character of Pembina Moun-
tain — Dr. Owen's description — At the Bad
Woods — At iho (4i'aiid Forks — I{idf!e« on
the Biding and Duck Mountains — I'orres-
pond with Uidgcs on the(Jreat Dog Portage
— Probable former conuexion of Grand
Coteau de Missonri, Turtle, Hiding, Duck,
Thunder, Porcupine, and Pasipiia Sloun-
tiiins— Ancient Uiver Valleys — The (in'Ap-
pelle — The Little Siuiris — Sand Hills and
Dunes — Their Distribution — Circular De-
pressions — Kllects of Denuilalioii — The
Valley proper of Lake Winnipeg denniled —
Outcrop of Formations conform to the
general trend of the Laiirentian Series —
Protile of the (Jient Dog Mountain — Secthiii
of Ureiit Dog Portage.

CllAPTFU XVII.

TllK I.AfllKXTIAX SKlllKs TIIK SII.IUTAX SKUIKS.

TIIK I>KVOXIAX SKIIIKS - . . [H'J

Dislribntion of Fonnalions — The Laureiitian
Series — The Lauren I iiles — The Lauren I iaii

Sy>lein de.-eiilied — Kciiniaiiie .Materials in

Disli'ilmlion of Ihe Lauicnliaii Series in llie
Basin of Lake Winnipeg— The .Silurian
, Series — The (hazy Formalioii — Deer Island
— Grindstone I'oini — The Poisdam Sand-
stone — Probable Fossils in the Laureiillan
Series — Polsdain .Samlslone lUi the Soiiili
Shore of Lake Sujierior — The Hird's Fve
Liineslone — The Hudson Uiver (iroup —
The Devonian Series — Salt Springs — List
of Salt Springs where Sail is galhered and
inaliufaitnieil — .Mode nl' extracting Salt by
.solar e\aporalioii — Furniatluns superior to
the Devonian — Weslern Limit of the Devo-
niaii Series — The Uiiling Mnnnlain — Ab-
>enee of Drifl proofs — Liiiill nf area in which
lornialions between the Devonian and Cre-
taceous may be foiiiid — Probable aliMMice of
the Carbmiiferous .Series — The Nebraska
Scries — Kansas Bock — Permian Series —
tliirassie or TriiL-sic .Series probable in
Kansas — Cretaceous Uocks repose on Ju-
rassic in Nebraska — Probability of the
occurrence of the Coal Measures in Ihe
Uusiii of Lake Winnipeg.

CHAPTER XVIII.

TIIK lUKTAlKOfS SKItlKS. TIIK TKRTIAIIV SKIlltS \Hi)

(ireat extent of the Crelucious Series in Uu-
jM'rl's Land — Cretaceous Scries in thel'iiiled
Stall's — Vertical Section in Nebraska Terri-
tory — Formation No. I — Formalion No. a. —
Probable distribution on the North Branch
of the Saskatchewan — Formation No. 11 —
Fonnation No. 1— Distribution on Little
Sonris — The -\ssinnihoiiie — The Qu'Appelle
— Formation No. ." — Dislribntion on the
(Qu'Appelle — The South Branch of the Sas-
katchewan — The Tertiary Series — Suiiil
Dunes probably derived from Tertiary Uocks
— Importance of— ^Lignite — Distribution in
Americn — Distribmion and importance of in
Euroiii; — Vcrtk'iil .Sggtiou vf the Ovologicul

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

FormntionH of Nebraska Territory na fiir «H
determined with tlieir extension into Ru-
pert's Lnnd,

CHAPTER XIX.

ItEMARK!) ON THK C'llETACKOtiS F09SII." t:'-
I.KrTKD nv IMIOl'KSSdIl IIKNHV Y. HIND,
ON TIIK A.HSINNIllOIXE AND SASK,VT('IIF.WAN

EXPi.oniNO ETKinnoN, WITH iiKsrnii'-

TIONS OK SOMF. NEW srKClF.S.; IIV F. H.

.MKKK 195

Keniiirlxs — Ll-<»(ir Fossils ciillectiMl — I'liiiils —
MdIIuscii — Anoiiiia Kli'iiiiiij^i — IiioccniniuM
Ciiiiiiilcnsis — Aviciilii lin^'iuel'in'niis — Avi-
c'lilnXclinisciiim — Ivcilallliicli — lA'iliiKvansi
— Uoslcllniiii Aniciicanii — Xaticn ohliqiiatn
— A\('lluna (Minciniia — Aninioiiiles [)ln<'t>nla
— AniJiionilcs, sp. iindt. — Anniionitcs Itnrii-
nloni — Annnoniles Rillin^si — Scapiiiti's
nixldsiis — !)('a|>lill('s C'oniadi — Naulilus
D( kayi.

ClIAPTKH XX.

REMAKKS OX THE SlLVniAN ANIl IlKVONIAN FOSSILS

( oi.i.Fi T.;ii nv riiiUKsHUi iiF.xnv v. hind
ON Tin. AssrxNrnipxi: and saskati iff.wan

KXI'l.olMNi; FXI'K.niTKlN. IIY F. HHMXIis,

F.(;.s. 1<)9

CllAl'Xi;i{ XXI.

ADDITIONAL ItFMAliKS ( iN TIIF. IIiiKdX inVEl!
mil TF, Willi AX I>T1MAI'F lir Till. idST
OF Ol'r.XIXd IT FOl! ( ilMMKItllAL TliAFFII'.
MV ,1. A. UK KIXSOX, C.K. ... 201

TAULi; OF I'm; foutaofs, dli iiaikifs. hai'ius,

I.AKFS, I.AKK STIIAITS, AXll XAVlUAlll.F
I IIAXXEI.S OX TIIK IMCFOX IMVFll l!ol TF
(TIIK OLD XiiKTII-WKST COMI'ANV's liolTF)
FIlllM I.AKF SI rFlilon TO nAIXV I.AKK,
SIIOWIXO TIIFIIt I.KXCITIIS AXl) IHSTANCF
FROM I.AKK SITKIMOI! .... L'02

ArPKNDTX.
1.

METHODS TO UK I'l ILSIKH IN HKTEIIMININO TIIK
DATA Fcili TIIK IIASIS OK ITIF .MAI'S AXD
iKATlON

IV.

A LIST OF THE WATEn-COI.Oin DRAWINfiS, AND

I'lIOTOOBAriLS ArCOMPANYINK THIS IIEI'OHT 207

liKi'onis (IK Tills Kxri.i

il.

INDIAN SlMMKl!

Ml.

- 201

- •-'(),■)

TAIU.ES OF .MACXFTIl VAIJIMIONS.

Xc). 1. iMnj;iiflii' A'ai'iatiiiiis ... \H)',

II. .\lii;.'n('lii' Vm'ialiiuis al 'ruriiiiln, I'riiin

IS 10 1,1 iM.m - - . . 20(i

Ml. .Mnfiiiclir Varialiiiiis al Toroiilo, I'ldiii

IH41 lo IHV.) .... 207

ILLUSTRATIONS.
MAl'.S.

1. Topofrrapliieal Map of n portion of Rupert's

Land, Surveyed and Kxiiniined liy the Kxjie-
ditiiin : .Scale, six miles In mie inch, or Tjg^'i in!-

2. (ieol(i;;ical Miij) of llic Kcirimi Kxplorcd : Scale,

tweiily-liiur miles ti> one inch, or, ,3jir4«'

J'LANS.

;t. Plan of ihe Grand Uajiid of Ihe Siiskatchewan :
Scale, two miles to one inch, ur ,.,|j'-jij.

I. Track .Survey of the (^n'Appclle, troni Sand
Hill Lake io the South liranch : Scale, two
miles to on<' incli. or y;;,;';.,^'

SKCTIOXS.

."). Ocoloptical Section from Lake \Vinnipe<r lo

(irniid t'dtcaii ile Missouri.
(i. (Jcolo^'ical Sccliim from Lake Winiiipefr to the

South liraiich of the .Sa^kalchettan.
7. I'nilih' i.f the (^ii'Apiicllc Valley, fruiu the As-

slnnil'iiiiii. Ill (he Saskalclicwan, (S. It.)

AV()()l)-('l TS.

I'AOK

Section on the Little Soiiris, >liii\\ iiio- ancient

Heaehes. willi Li^'iiiti' lionldcis - - - .W
C'ross.Scction uf the (;n'.\p|icllc Vallcv at tlie

Ilciciht iif l.iinil - . - - " - - (i.1
liidfris, with Ihinlihr-, In the Qn'Appelle \'alley

Sceticni on Ihi' South liranch of the Sasktitche- 65

wan. .-howiiij: (.'oncrelionary Layers, &c. - 71

Ilori/oiital Layers nf ^>(lul<ll'V^ in Drift, on the

Smith liranch - - - - ~ - "Jli
l'(dislied and (iroovcd Pavement of lidulders on

the South liranch - . - - - 73

.Section sliowin^r d,,. po^jildu nf Drift - - DiO

Shale imlicililcil in liluc Clay .... 1.31

Diaiirain >hdwiiirr ijic inclination of Shale - i.'i2

Slalis and licaildcrr. in lilne Clay - - - l.'J2

Sectidii shdwiii;; the pdsilliai uf lincl, l'"ragini'nls 1,'12
Kdssils IVdin Snake Maud Iml'. I. - -200

I'loducliis fnuM Wed Kiver I'ifis. I, 2, and ;! - 200

Oilliocenis Siinpsoni - I'liile 1, li}.'. 1 - 217

Anoiiiia l'"lcmini[i - . Plate 1, ii;is. 2 and ii 217

Jnoccramus ( anadensis . I'laie 1, lifis. 4 and ■'> 217

Aviciila Linirna'fonnis - I'hite l.liir. (i - 217

., Nchrascana - Plate l.liir. 7 - 217

Leila Hindi - . - I'l.ile 1. llirs. ,H and 9 217

-\iniiiiiiiilc> Itaiii-tdiii . riatr 2. (i;.'s. I — ;i - 219

ItilliiiL'sl . Plalc2,ti,L's. l,.'i,iind() 219

Scaphiles .Ndildsus . - I'lalc 2. IIl'S. 7 and S 219

Nautilus Dekavi . - Plate 2. tiu's. 9 and 10 219

«9

B 2

REPORTS or THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

R E T U R N.

To AN AuDitGss from tlic LiccrsLATivE Assembly to hU Excellency the Governor General, dnted

the 20 til instnnt, projiii;; liis Excellency to ciiiise to be laid before the House, " Copies of all

'* lt('|ioi'ts and ConiMiiiiiications of the Assinniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition, under

" the charge of I'rofeBsor H. Y. Hind, durinjj; the year 1838."

IJy Command,

C. ALLEYN, Si'cretary.
Secretary's OtBco, Toronto, 'J',)th April I8."i!".

Sin,

COl'Y or IXSTKJCTIONS.

No. I.

Secretary's Office, Toronto, April 14, 18.)t<.

Duiiixo till' 1:1st week I roniniiiiiicnted to yon, verbally, iiislruclioiis in reference lo the proposed
ExpeilitidU 1(1 the luighhourli'ioil of the lU-d Kivcr diirinnlhe pn»i'Mt year.

•J. It I'.iis liec-ii (leciiliil, us ViUi are aware, with a viiw lo keep down as much as p(K>ilile ilii-
expeii liemv llii^viar, 1^) (li-[)>>ii-f «illi llie scrvic-es of Mr. (iladmaii as ils j,'nieral maiiagir.

:). 'I'lu- exploiatidii pally lliis uar will consisi of Iwo (livi>iiiiis, one lo he plaiiil iiiider your
dire'.'lioii and roiitinl. ami the oilier under thf direelion of Mr. Dawson.

4. His Kxiellenry in Coimeil has been pleased to place under your eiiarj^e the 'I'opographical
and (ic()l',)_nieal portion I'f llie Exploralioii. respcctiiii; which full iiislrncliniH will be given in another
lettir, while Mr. l).i»ji)ii will coiilimii' to perforin the same duties as last year, viz., lliose of
surveyor, i^'e.

.'j. The estimate of llie probable expenditure of the Expedition, submitted by you on the Ctli instant,
was laid belbre his Exerllcncy in (.'omicil, and has hcin a|iproved of by them, and I have aeeordiiigly
now to direct yon to be gtiidcd as niucli as possible by that estimate in eu'.;agin>j; your assistants, liirin"
your men, as well as in llie other neei'ssary expenditures of the Expedition.

(i. It is hardly ncce-siiy lo siy that his Kxcilleocy relies upon your rxereising a due economy In
all m;illers ecmiiecird with the ICxpccljlion.

7. .\s soon as yon havo comphtcd \our contem|ilatc'd party, you will luriii..h mc with a sehednh',
giving till.' names of all the persons composing it, and stating their rales of pay. and the dales bum
which their pay is to commence. .Such a schedule will be necessary to supply ihe auditor with ihe
means ot auditing yoin' ace(jiinls.

8. Ilavirg organi/ed yonr paity, you will lose no time in repairing with ihein to lied liivcr, taking
with yon the supplies (referred to in the estimate) re.'|uired for Mr. Dawson.

!). On your way to the Red Kiver, yon will lake possi.-sion of the canoes, p.rovisions, and other
articles belonging lo the (iovernmeiit, either at C'ollingwood or Sank .Sle. Marie. These, with the
men intended lor Mr. Dawson, you w 11 deliver over lo that gentleman wIhii you meet him, either at
Red Kiver or on his way back.

10. You are lo consider all the articles and materials of any descripti(m belonging to the Canadian
Ciovernment, connected with the late Expedition, as available (or the purposes of the present Expedition,
and yon and Mr. Dawson may therefore divide them between you in whatever way you may think
most advantageous. Such articles, if any, as may not be recpiired by cither of you should be left iti
the custody of some trustworthy person to await the orders of the (Jovernmcnt.

11. As soon as you shall have put .Mr. Dawson in possession of the men and canoes intended for
him, each of you will be held separately responsible for the expenses of hi« own parly. You will,
therefore, be careful to keep an accurate account of your expenditure.

I'J. The Amlitor-General of I'nblie Accotuits will give you any information yon may refpiire as to
the most convenient mode of making out and furnishing your accounts, See.

1.'}. On yoiu' return from Montreal I shall be prepared to give you your instrnclious with reference
to the localities in which your exiilorations are to be conducted, and as to the objects lo which your
atteniion is to be more especially directed.

I have, &e.
(Signed) T. J. J. LoRANoi;!!, Secretary.
To H. Y. Hind, llsq., 'I'oronto.

i>L

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

No. II.

Sin, , Secretary's Oflicc, Toronto, April 27, 1 8.j8.

I HAVE the honour to conitnunicutc to you the Iiistructioim promised iu tiie last pnrn;;;raph of
my letter to you of the 14th iiislaiit, for your guiduiice in connexion with the branch of the expeilition
to the west of Red River, whicli has been committed to your ciiarge.

2. 'I'lic instructions contained in that letter will suflicc for your guidance up to the time of your
arrival ot the Red River setllcniciit, and the present instruction^) therefore have reference merely to
your operations after having left thirt settlement.

;J. Tiie region of country to which your explorations are to he then directed is that lying to the
west of Lake Winnipeg and Red River, ami enibracod(or nearly so) between the rivers Saskatchewan
and Asslnnibone, as far west as " South lirancli House," on the former river, which latter place will
be the most westerly point of yoiir exploration.

4. It will be your endeavour to procure all the information in your power respecting tlie geology,
natural history, topography, and meteorology of the region above indicated.

i>. As to the general character of the geological portion of your labours, it is unnecessary to add
anything to the instructions communicated to you la»t year, and which, so far as this point is
concerned, will servo for your guidance for the present season.

0. 'I'hi're are, however, two nmllers lo wliidi I am to recpu'st yon to direct your parliculiirattention,
namely, th'.' Salt region in tlie iipighbourlioDd of I/ike Manitobiih adverted to in your report fur last
year, and the deposit of tertiary coal or lignite, reporled to exist in the valley of Mouse Uiver.

7. It is most important that you should ascertain, by actual examination, as tar as ]iossible, the
existence, extent, and character of the.sc deposits.

8. In ascending or descending the ditlerent rivers you may have occasion to explore, it is advisable
that you siiould note with care their breadth, depth, rate of current, and the probable (piantily of water
discharged by them at different points, and at dilferent seasons of the year ; their facilities for iiavigalion
by boats or steamers, and whether they overflow their banks to any extent at any season of the year.

i). The general aspect of the whole region should be carefully described. The clisracter of the
timber and soil observed, unil the general fitness of the latter for agricultii.al purposes ascertained as
far as may be from observation and incjuiry.

10. Il is desirable that your ineteorological ob.servations should be made with the maximum and
niiiiimuiu ihernmmeter, and with the wet and dry bulb. The temperature of the rivers, lakes, and
springs should also be recorded, and the rain-fall observed.

Any reliable informalion you can obtain as to the iiuiinlity i)f snow precipitated during the winter
would alsii be of interest.

11. Your topographical explorations -lioiild be made with reference tu the eoiistrnction of a map
(as complete as possible) ol the region ex|ilored, on a scale of two miles to one inch — and your opera-
lions shoulil 111 . I. .' in view of a pos.iible extension, at some future time, of the exploration, so
as to embrace the e, re valley of Lake \\ innipeg and its feeders.

I'i. With a view to illustrate the natural history of the country, you will avail yourself of such
ojiportuuities as may present themselves to collect any objects that m.iy be Useful for that purpose.

I.'). .\ny geological or natural history specimens wliieh y(ui may liave eollfcle 1 during your explora-
tions, may be K It by yon at Red River, on your return, wlili the other property of the (iovernmcnt
belonging to the e\pedil.-jii, to await the orders of the Government, with the otiier articles referred to
iu the lentil paragraph of my letter of the l-lth instant.

II. I am to u<l<l that his Kxeelleiicy, having every eoniidenee in your judgment and discretion,
does not wi^hto trammel yon with more detailed instructions, aiul that yon are left at liberty to make
any other exploration, iu addition to tlio.H' particularly named llicrcin, should you, upon information
obtained in the locality, deem it desirable lor the general purpo.ses of the exiicilition.

l.'i. It is hardly necessary to state that you will be held responsible for the conduct, liiligetice, and
fidelity of the party under your charge.

1((. With a view to distinguish your branch of the expedition for the present year, it will bo
convenient to designate it as the " Assiimiboine and Saskatchewan Kxploring Kxpedition ;" by this
title, therefore, you will describe it in your Reports.

I have, &c.
(Signed) T. J. J. Loiiangeii, Secretary.

Henry Y. Hind, Esq., Toronto.

B 3

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND .■

REPORTS OF PROGRESS.
No, J. — Lake Supkiiior to Red Riveh.

Sin, Red Rivm- Settlement, Jiino a, 1858,

1 HAVE tlie lionour to int'oriii you of my nrrivul ol the Hed River Settlements yesterday
nftenioon, after ii ninoe voyni^e of twenty-lliree days from the west end of the (iriind Po. l,.j;e, Luke
Superior.

It iilfordr" nie rnnoh iileiiHure to lie aMo to state that no accident or (rLTicnlly of any description
oernrred (huiiij; tlic voyn;ie, and upon n careful review of our supplies, iustrunioiifs, au<l personal
Imfifiafie, the fracture of oue i-niall liiernionicter represents the only injury sustained.

Till' ariival of this expedition at Hcil Hiver in advance of .Sir Cicorjro .Simpson, has excited some
surprise^ in the setllcnifnl-^. 'i'he well-known japidity with which that distinguished traveller h.is
for many years hocii accu-lonicd to accomplish the voyaije between Lake Superior and Red River,
»•/((■ the Kaniinisliiiiiia, may leuiier desirahle a more detailed description of the old North-west
Company's route we followed, than would otherwi-e app.car to he necessary,

AVe havi' all enjoyed excellent health, and were l)rovidentinlly assisted by very favourable weather,
which, though at limes stormy and cold, diil not retard our progress liir many hours at a time. On
our arrival at Moose Lake, .May i'Jtli (riili- accompanying map), a glistening sheet of golid ice
overspread its sMrliiee, and seemed to threaten a long delay ; hut by noon on the following day, under
the iidiiU'nce of a hot sun and a gentle breeze, lanes of water opened, through which we succeeded
in passing the canoes, and on the evening of the same day a high wind accompanied by rain
completely bi'oke up the ice in the higher lakes, an<l opened the conununication.

(Jn the Wiiuiipeg wi' encoiMitered violent lliiimler storms, with hail aiul heavy rain, succeeded
24 Ikmms alierwards by a boistr'roiis snow .■^lorni; but halipily the direelion of the wind was generally
in our favour, and aided our progress.

We i-eniained one day at I'ort l''rances, with a view to repair the canoes, rest the men, mid
celebrate Her Majesty's birthday.

'J'hc Inxjuois I'rom Canghiiawnga worked aihnirahly. I hey were easily c(mt oiled, and fullv
maintained the excellent name llie\ have accpiired lor hard-working, patient vovagi'i'is.

When we startid from the east tiid of the Cirand I'orl.ige the baggage of the eX( edition weigheil
considerably over (),(MI(I pounds, anil the labiiiu' of carrying it, in ad'lition to the ci noes, over the
.Portages, was neeessiirily great, and (>cea>ioned severe sores on the shoulders of son e of the men,
which were submitted to with char.icteristie good n.ilnre. The storage of Mr. Dawson's supplies
in I'orl I'rances seemed to be a great encouragement, and when reliived of this iluty our pnfgress
was remaikably rapid.

We camped oil' the mouth of Hed lliver seven days alter leaving I'orl Frances, ami might
ea>ily have reached tlic .Settlements on the first day ot .lime, but in view of our liipid voyage fnan
liainy Lake I did not think it iiceessaryto press the guiile; we therefore waited for a (t^w hours at
I'ort AleNander, ami i iijoyed the very geiuToiis hospitality id' .Mr. Sinclair, the gentleiiTan in charge.

The ex, let time the ex|ieilitii)n s[)eiit in eaiioes lictw.'eii LaKe Sujierior and l!ed liiver, after
dednctiiig the delays at the lints helnie mentioned, was "21 days and l^ix hours, as opposed to 27 (lavs
.Tint six hours by the Kainiiiistii|uia roiile last year. 'J'he average daily progress was "Jwl miles
against 'J.") miles in IH.")?.

'I'lie (iiand I'orlage. made to overcome the falls of Pigeon liiver, I'Jd feet high, has been often
cited as the chief obstruction to the Pigeon River route Its length is H miles L"> chains. 'I lie
road is dry, ami in compaiismi with sonic of the portages oil the Kaministiipiia route, in good
condition It is |)as,sable lor an ox team, which is emplnyed by the jieople in charge of the American
tradiuir post in forwarding their supplies.

I endeavoured to procure ihe ox carl and learn to Iransfor the heavy baggage from the east to the
west end ol the portage, but allhimgh the eart was available the team was not, one ox having dii'd
during the wiiitir, and ihe other was in .-iich a miserabie eondilion that he cuahl scarcely diaw the
carl itself.

The passage ol the (iiand I'orlage conseiinently occupied live days instead of two, and in making
a compaiiMiii between the two canoe routes to Lake \Vinni|)eg these facts must bo borne in mind.
Ill l.'s.')? the Iteil Kivi.'r expcdilion laniled at Fort William on the yisl of •Inly, and reached the
Sellleinents on the -Itli of .^eplember, having been ',U days on the road, or 40 from 'i'oronto. This
expeibtioii re.iched Cirand Portage on the 5th ot May, and arrived at the Stone Fori '^nd .lune, a
period of "Js* days, or .S4 from Toronto. The (irand Portage lying within the territory of the L'nited
Slates loses all intere:,t as the terminus of a (anailian route. Rut that part of the water communica-
tion which forms the boundary line, and the eountry between Arrow Lake and Fort W'illinm, seems
to acipiire iiiiportanee in proportion to ihe extension of our knowledge respecting its cupabilities
and res inrees.

The waters on the rivers and lakes on the east side of the height of land, the Lake Superior water-
shed. Were high, whih' those on the H est side, or the tributaries to Lake Winnipeg, uniircccdentedly
low. In many ot the lake- reeeiil waler-iiiai ks, four and five feet above the present level, were
I'reipienlly observed. This remarkable lowness of the water is n'tributed by the half-breeds and
Indians to the very small (juautity of snow which fell on the weslurn slope during the last winter.

ll is important to hear in mind that the voyage of this expedition to Red liiver was miide under
llie great disadvantages in.HCparable from unnsually low water, and whatever superiority the roiile

SASK/VTCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

•

apppor: '■ • i)OMCg9 over that of the Kaininistiniiia l>y Furt William, will bu iniicli niorc iipiHuciU in
ordinii. loiit, when llu' lake and river levtls aie t'l oiti two to live liot iibovv llicir present ullitiidu.

The I'ljiiomiif; brief skelell of the route U not intended to iuitici|)ate any rcsidts wliieli may be
fnrnished by Mr. Dawson'.s proposed exploration duriii); tlit! ensuing summer and aiitinuii ; but as it
was made under peculiar eircumslances, and in tlie npring of tlie year, it will M'rve to supply a
blank which would be felt if a hot snunner with little rain-fall I'hnidd reduce the water levels niueli
below their ordinary height in the aiitiiinnul inonllm; an event wliieli will not be (keiiied improbable
when their present condition is known.

From Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods onr course; lay on llie boundary line between
DritiHb America and the United State!), as hiid down upon the uutliori/ed lithographed map furiushed
by the Crown Lund Ueparlinent.

The aceompaiiyiiig chart is based upon that survey, and the observations of Mr. Uickiiison assisted
by Mr. Kleiniiig are marked in red ink.

Chart No. "J shows the I'emiwa Uiver, down which the expedition voyaged, with a view to ascertain
if it po8ri<'esed any advanlages over the old route by the Winnipeg. A,-* the iidorniation obtained is
not likely lo possess any practical value in its bearing on the subject of a boat eoinnniniuatioii,
I wouhl wish it to be re^ardeil merely an one of the .small additions to our idgraphical knowledge
ol this (^(niiitry which oiiportunities oieasiomdly enable us to make, and wh' it is desirable to secure,
BU long as they do not interfere with the general objeels of the expedition.

The |)art of the I'igeon Uiver Uoute to wliich ihia notice refers, commences at Arrow Lake, a line
expanse of water in connexion with While I'ish Lake, lying in a north-easterly direction, and within
iiO inileii of the Kaminislicpna.

From Arrow Lake, a short portage brings us into Kose Lake on the course of the old North West
Company H route, following the bounilary line.

The portages between Kose Lake and the Height of Land are short and low, while the Height of
Land I'ortnge is not ."idO yards long, and dois not rise above .">(( fret. The passage from the St. Law-
rence water-shed to that of Lake Winnipeg is short, cisy. and dry, inci)ini)arably superior lo the
I'rairie portage, and liie (ireat Savanno <m the Kaniiiii.^tifiuia route. An inspection of the ma[) will
show that in coiibeipieiiee of the very low state of the water this ytar, iiuimrous sntall r.ipids were
formed in the river.s coiiiieetiiig (jun Flint Lake «itli Lake .Seiganauali. In ordinary >eas()iis these
rapids are passi'd wllliout ditlicully, but this yoar they involved the portage of a |i<)rliou of the
baggage and llif letting ol the canoes ihiwn iheiii by rope.

From Lake .Seiganagah * an Indian route passe.-, into Liltle .Siigaiiagali Laki'. wliich eoiineels with
Slnrgeiiii Lake <ai the roiile passed la-t year. The Little .Suiganagali is a favourite wintering place
of nniiicrons families of Indians ; it abounds with (isli, and near ils >hores tlu' wiiitir ro.id to Fort
William runs.

Uilween Knife Lake and Hiivli Lake tiiere are two routes, one eoiiuiding with the boundary line,
till' oilier passing in a north-wistcrly direelion by the (.lotted line shown on tlu' niaj), whicli we
folhiwed, making howevir two port.iges in-tcad of one. but escaping some rapids.

From Neipaupioii Lake oiii' route passe.•^ into the N'aniinkan Kiver, and aiiotlier. turning soiilli,
follows the lioiindary line llirongli Loon's Narrows and then north into Nana ukaii Lake. Our guide
pi'ifirred going by Loon's N'arniws, h.'uriiig that the always daiigcroiis Naiiuukan liapids would lii'
almost impa>sable tor lie.ivily laden canoes, on account of the low st;ige of ihe water.

Ill Loon's Narrows we Iniiiid a .-halli>w rivir with a strong current and many boulders, and in
making the nialh-wotirly turn, instead of the broad channel shown on the map, a very tortiious,
sluggish, and .shallow stream, led ii.s into the soiitii arm of Sand I'oint Lake.

The banks of Loon s N.irrows sliowed lliat iii nrdinary seasons pKaily of water is found in the river
to admit of loaded canoes or boats without <litiieulty, and the delineation of tliis part of the route
on the aeeoiini.mying map, must be regarded as rep.cseiiling tliL' narrow valley ureu|)ied by the
river during periods of high water.

Sand I'oint Lake is connected with the Nameiikaii Lake by a bioad cliaiiiiel. ami it is at this
point that the route through Loon's Narrows coincides with llic more northern route and follow:!
the boundary line tliroiigh Uainy Lake to Fort Frances.

My own impression of tlie I'igi'on Uiver route as compared with the ihk' |iinsiied la^t year is
very favoiiiable, but as yon will be plaied in possession of all pariicniars by the exploration of
Mr. Daw.son, I refrain from further notice of this \idiialile line of eoninuinication.

On my arrival at the .Midille Selllement. where Mr. Dawson and his parly reside, 1 found
Mr. Uusscll in charge of the bouse and ell'ects, Mr. Dawson with the other members of his (larty
having started some days previously for the Saskatchewan, whence they are not expected to return
until the end of .lunc; i have therefore placed .Mr. Uusscll in possession of the canoes and men
intended for Mr. Dawson, and am now engaged in organizing a party to proceed iiumcdiately up
the Assinniboine.

I beg to enclose Mr. Dickinson's remarks on the route, and maps marked, —
No. L I'igeon Uiver route.
„ '2. The Peimwa.

„ ."3. A chart of the whole route, showing the camping places, wiiii corresponding dates.

I have, kc.
The Hon. T. .1. .1. Lorunger, M.l'.F. (Signed) HENUY V. HIND.

Provincial Secretary.

* Si-i{{iinngali or " Full of I'Iniuls."

B 4

REl»ORTS 01- THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

No. II. — Mit. Dicki.nhon'n IUi'oiit on tiii: Piokdn Uivkii Huutc,

Sir, Il»l Hiver .Sfttlomont, Juno 8, l85H.

I iii'.n Iciivi' to fiulunit tlic fnllowin){ (Icscriptinn of llii^ l*i|{i'(iii Hiver roiitr, compiled I'l'om
the notes mid iibserviilioiiH taken \ty nivxell' anil Mr. Meiniiiff, aecordiiig to your inslnietions.

'['he nceoinpanyiii}; iiiiip in ii co[iy of part of the map niiiile liy David Tlioiiipjoii lor (lie Itoiuulury
CoiiiinixKioiiers ; tlic iiiile.'< in red ink l)ein){ tli<Mi> taken liy U!i.

Tlio iii<i){litK and (llHtanco!* were only estimated approxinialely, it beinff tlioiii{ht not noueiisary tu
nmke nse of iriMtrninentH for tlie purpose, us a eoniplele exploration of the route is to he made
licreafler.

Our oli»ei'vation8 more pnnicniarly connnenerd at Arrow Lake, as the head of tliiit lake in tlio
terminus of tiie propo:<eil road to Point <leH Meurons, near I'ort William, and in the ease of it« heiiiff
niadu, (anil it in most desiralile that it kIiouKI he if pojsihie,) the route lietweou (irand Portage Hay
and Arrow l.ako would not he made uae of. However, a Mhort detcription of it may not be thouffht
unneecssorv.

liratul i'ortaije Ilay, where formerly was the eliief depot of the North West Company, uilords
a sultieiently wife harhour for small vessel, bein^; very shallow, however, for gomo dislanee out from
the shore.

At the head of the hay commences the Grand I'orlage, whieh is eight miles thirteen cbaiiiH in
lenuth; without any diflieulty and with very little expensu it mi;;lit be made suitable for waujjfi>n9,
but at present it is only a rou^h foot-path. As it and Grand I'orlaj^e liay are altogether within the
I'niled States territory, it is perhaps needless to propose any improvements that iui;;ht he made ill
them. 'I'his porta^re is unavoidable, as I'igeon lliver, for sixteen miles from its mouth, is quite
unnavigahle, liom the numerous falls and rapids in it.

From the end of this portajje there is one and a half miles of still water to I'artridj^e Pmtage,
whieh is -t^.') y.u'ds in leni{lh. The path is on the American .-ide of the boundary lioi', as it is also
at many otiier places aloui; this route. In ihe.-e ea-es path- shonhl be soni;ht for on Urilish territory,
and wliieli coul I be obtaineil, .is well as we could observe, uiihoiit rinich ditticully.

Above I'iii lri(ljj;i' l'iiita;;e the rivi r is deep an<l wide, with a moikr.ite current for three aiul a half
miles ; but from this for oui' mile to the semi-(lc'char;4e the river is shallow and the etureut vciy
strong; so much ^o, tlmt caim, s have to be polid i.p,

.\t this semi-di'ehar<{i' thi> path is on the Itritisli side, and is ^liort but rou^li. When the water is
high, no seini-decbarfje is reipiired ; but at the time we pas^^ed, the water here and in all the rivers
and lakes was peculiarly low, the hif;h-vvater mark appearing to be four feel above the |)resent level.

The distance to the m-xl semi-decharge is two miles, in wliieli length there are no obstriielions.

'I'he second semi-dech.ir^e i- r.boul .'ID chains long; in guiiii^ down <treaiu the portage need not be
made ; the path is on the Anu'riean side.

l!et»(i;ii this and I'mvl I'lirlagc, a distance of three and a half miles, the river is (piile li.ivijrable.

I'ohI I'oilage is •-',(1110 yards long, and is pretty level e.NCjpl at the west end, «liere it is very
precipitous. The bouiidaiy line runs along the p.itli, as it do.s al-o at some other portages, but tin
paths could be all easily iiiaiie on I5riti>h territory, due precautions having been taken that the
boundary line be not nbliterated.

We here enter on Foul Lake, whieh is four and three i|o,iiler luileu long; in the middh! there is
a narrow strait abiait 10 I'liains wide and .'Id chains long, part ol it being rather shallow ; the other
Jiarts of the lake ari' one niih wide on an average.

At the end of it is .^loo^e Portage, 7'JI yards long; the path, which is the bonnilary line, eould be
easily inipioved or removed to iine side.

Moose Lake is four and a half miles hmg, with an average uiilth of half a mih' ; il is very dcc|),
and is never frozen over till late in the season, and the ice tu not broken up (ill long alter that in the
other lakes.

Great Cherry Portage is the next ; it is 844 yards long, leading to a small lake ((iiarter of a mile
long, at the end of which is Mud Portage, '.'(i.'j yards long; and between it ami the lesser Cherry
Portage there is another small lake l.'i chains long.

Un these three portages the boundary line, ns it ap])ears from the map, runs on the paths, although
the lakes are connected bv creeks. 'I'he paths are tolerably good, but better eould be easily made,
and solely on Hritish territory.

We then come to the beautiful Mountain T.ake, which is seven and three ipiaiter miles long and
three (luarters of a mile broad, deep, and navigable for boats of any size.

Watap Portage, j.'li) yards long, lies between it and Walap Lake ; the path is the boundary line.

Watap Luke is a narrow strip of water ."j^ miles lung and about la chains wide, .sullieiently deep
throughout the entire length for any kind iif eiaft.

The Great New Portage is 'J,.')?!) yards long; it is rather uneven, and is crossed by some small
creeks: the boundary line is on it, but judging from the nature of the ground, u good path could be
made on liritisli land.

We now arrive at Ko.se Lake, which is separated from Arrow Lake by u narrow neck of land,
across which a portage must be made.

Arrow Lake is lf>i miles long, and has an average width of one mile; but as wo did not visit it, its
character cannot, be described.

Uose Lake is three miles long, and averages three cpiarters of a mile across ; it is deep, and well
sheltered on all sides.

SASKATCHEWAN KXPL()1UN(} KXI'K DITION.

At tho end thorp it n p<)rtiif(o wliioli in not sliowii on tliu oi'i^ii.nl mnp; it in only 20 yardM lon|;,
ntu\ on the Anu'ricnn liilc.

Mud Litko in two luid ii hiiU' miles I(>m}{ iiimI n i|iiiirtcr milt! wide, luid iVnin tliit'c to foiii' fi'cr di>(<|i|
witli a xol't miidiiy linltom; thi- water linviii^ ilic pccidiiir jiropi riy o! i'"tiu'diii){ tlio canoe, mu lilar tu
tlint ol'lliu Viicou-i Lake on tli(! KaniiiiiHtl<|uia route.

Ilclwcon it ami tlie next lake tliere U another porlnffo wliieh i-i not named ci' deMcrilicd on the
orlKinnl map; il °IH() yards in len)rth, and is the boundary line, tin; present patl. I)ein){ tolerably
good and li'vel.

fSoutli Ijike \* the last on the >^l^l sidu of the Height of Imnd ; it is two and ihi I'e ipiarter mileH
ocro^g to the lloiglit of Land I'ortaye; the lake is about three <|unrters of a mile wiue, uiul not nmrc
than four feet deep alon^ the canne ronle, the hiidom ronsistinjt of very soft mud.

'I'lie llei){lit of Land Portage is -IdH yards long, and ia one of iho beat on llie route; a good road
miglit be made without the Hlighlcat dilHculty, ihorc being plenty of pine and other good materiaU
for the purpuio riose by.

We enter a lake now whieh is the hoad of ihe Winnipeg water-shed ; having no name it may bo
considered part of (inn Mint liake, with which it is ronnected by a slndl two and a half miles long,
and varying from three t i ten eliains in widlli. 'I'lie traverse across this hike is one ami three
(piarter miles long. Near tlie middle of the titrait there is a Hemi-ddcliarge not noticed on the
original map ; it is but 'JO yards long, with about f<nir feot fall ; when the water is high the rapid
rould he rim by canoes even when Inaih'd.

(iun Mint Lake, from the end of the narrow Hirait to Lillle Itock Portage, in seven miles long,
and has an average uiillli of one mile ; it is a fine open !<lie('t of water of considerable depth. Helbre
arriving at Little Hoek Portage there is a rapid of two feel I'all, down whieli the eanots were lowcie<l
by ropes ; the rapid is caiiNcd by boulders of various sizes in the bed of the stream, but which might
doubt le>s be removetl.

Little Itock Portage is oidy il3 yards lung; it is, na its name implies, over a rock, which is very
steep on the west side.

Prom this to Mdl Pull portage is a mile ; the river \s about six clmiiis wide; at the end there is a
rapid uitli a fill of three feet, the channel being (illeil up very much with boulders, so much so, that
the canoes were let down with great dilhciilty.

Mill Pall I'orlage, of 110 yards in length, ii over a very riigaed rock on the Anicriean side.
'I lie next Pmtage is a (piartcr of a mile further on ; it is .■»(•!» yards Iciim, over an if land ; the path
is very f;ood and level except at the ends, wlure it is rather sleep and the lamliiii^s are bad, but could
be eadily impnived, as indeed tlie landings at all the portages might be and without any considerable
cost, as the materials for doing so can be obtained uiihont dillicully.

This river or chain of lakelets id twelve miles long from Cinn Plint Lake to Like Seigaimgah ; for
four miles lielow the hi'.tineiitiniied portage it is full of large lionldirs, wliieli make the navigation of
it diHieiilt ; there are in this length six rapids, varying from live feel to one fool fall, at four of which
the canoes had to be carefully lei down by ropes.

Prom thence to the semi-iii'eharge of 100 yards in length and five feet fall, which is one mile from
the end, the navigation is good. At the inoiitli of this river there is a portage which is not shown on
the original map. neither are any of the rapids between this and the last portage.
'Pliif portage is .'(0 yards long, over a rocky point on the American side.

\\r now I'liler Lake Seiganagah, the route through which follows the boundary line or nearly so,
aiitl is nine miles in leiij;lli. 'I'lie gre.ite^t length of this lake is PJ miles, and the greatest width six
miles. It is lull of island-, from whlih il derives its name, airording good shelter to canoes, at the
same time not iniiiediiig the navigation for huge lioals.

After passing tiirough a short eliannel I'J chain-' wide we (liter Swamp Lake, which is two am! a
(piarler miles long, and averaging 1)0 ehaiiiH wide ; in it tliere is a small portage *_>0 yards long; the
channel being only about three feet wide and very shallow. 'I'he water in the western portion is
higher by alxmt one foot than that in the other ; the w.iters of Lake Seiganagah must therelbre find
an exit elsewhere.

Swamp Portage is ■••J:l yards long, on which is the boundary line ; the path is very good, except at
the east end, wlure il is swampy, the landing there being exceedingly bad; however, here as el.-e-
wliere, there is no reason why a good one might not be made very easily.

Cypress Luke, the next we enter on, is a long narrow lake live and a ([iiarter miles long by a
(piarter of a mile wide, and of flulKcient depth. There is a portage al the end 47 yards in length;
with little labour and expense this portage miglil lie done away with, or al least made a semi-
(h'charge; the present path, however, is very good, and is on the Uritish side of the boundary line.

Knile Lake, the next on the route, is of a very irregular shape ; the course follows the boundary line
for eight miles, when it then diverges to the north. When the water is high the course may
continue ahmg the boundary liiie the whole way as it is .shorter than the other ; bill when the water
is low the narrow channel is full of rapids, and becomeH iinlil lor the navigation of largf canoes, and
then Ihe northern course on Itriliah territory, as i^hoivn by the red-dolled line on the map, which
we took, is iniich preferable.

The first portage, three quarters of a mile from ihe boundary line, is rather bad ; il is 700 yards
long, and is very roiigli and hilly ; but a belter one might no doiilil be made.

Alter passing through a lakelet three (planers of a mile long by a ([iiarler of a mile wide, we come
to the next portage, which is a short one, (iO yards long.

'I'he upper portion of Uirch Lake is then entered, and the eourse is continued in a soiilh-wv-lerly
ilircclion for four and a quarter miles nil it reaches the boundary line, along which il ullerw.irds
goes. .

IIKPORTS OF THE ASSINMBOINE ANU

Hull' u iiillo I'lirtlu'r on tht> Ciirp I'urtiiKu i* rvnclird; it iit 'i7S ynrdi in IviiKtli, ilio |mlli \* vcr^
({iiuj iiidi'i'il, liiit l'i>iiii« llii' huiiiiilitiy liiH-, jia it ii|i|)i'urH Iruiii tliu iiiii|), iillliuii){li tliui'u in a rliuiiiu'i
ciutf l>y wliicli wuiiltl liavL- ttivii tlic inoru iiiiturHJ (iiii>.

'I'lii' coiii'HU tliruii^li till- (itlii'i- purtiuii ul' Uiruli Luku in t'uiir mile* long, iilon^ whiuli the wiilvr it
<k'('|) i-iiDii^li lor luiy kind ul' lioata.

At the (.'iitraiiru to liamiwood Luku tlit-re ii li |iurlu;(f ilHI yui'da long on llio llritiili iiido of tliu
buiiiiduiy linu ; tlio |iiitli i'i'i|nirni but very llttk- lubour tu luuku it qidtu gu<id.

llu'Dwood Lnko, iii'ilcctly iiuviguble I'ur Hinall HtfaiutTH, i^t a larur lako of inoitt iiri'Kidui' I'oriii, and
cuntaiiiin({ many islanda. 'I'lii- uaiial coniaf tlnuugli it liva aluiig the Itoinidui'y lini*, and \» 17^
nnli'i lung, At tlic I'nd tlici'i' arc two rupidi of vonaldi't'abli' tall, ii ((uartcr of a nido aanndi'r, wlilcli
ui'i' uvoiik'd by |iiii'tngi'a ; tlio llr^t ono, of lUO yui'di in li'iigtli on tin- AiniTicun aidi-, in pi'ftty good ;
ua Car ai >.'uiild bo m'cn tliiTu npiH'ai'H no rcaaori wliy tliu poibigr iniglit not bo nmdo on tlio oppoiiilo
aidt'. 'I'lio noxt portago, llio I'ir, i» i)&U yardi long; tliv palli \h tlie jjoundary linu ; it in ovor very
rooky ground, and riioa consiilorubly in llio iniddio. Al'tor pasxiiig tlii^i iiorlago tlioro uru in tlio lirat
niilo two rapids not .^liown on tbo orlgitiid map ) one of tlirou loot lull, tlio utiior of two I'tut, but
wliioli aro oanily rnii.

'I'lio obannol in not inoro tliaii about 10 cbaina widu, itiid oontiiiuo* of tbii width for tovoii and a
hull inilos.

'I'wo mill's bi low tho laat rapid is a portago Kid yards long ovor a high rooky point on tlio
Aiiiorican sido ; tliir was no appatvnt objoctiun why a portago |mth mighl not bo cunatructod on tlio
otiior aido in liritixb torriiory.

'I'lnvo milia fiirthor down tho chaniiol Cruokod Lake, which fully duaorvo* its naino, in fairly
oiitorod on. llio couiso follows tho bonnilary lino through it, and by its windings is 14 miloa in
loiigtii, tbmigh tilt* aliaolulo longlh of tho lako is but 10. llio navigation is somowhat intrioato, at
tlio saino tinii.' i|uito '^iitKcioiilly good for ovoii boats of largo dinii'iHioiis,

Curtain Fall I'ortago l<i IH.'I yards long; llio path is rallur bad, boiiig oarriod ovor n hill, and is
voiy rongli iiidocd; it is uu llio Aiiiorioaii -idi'. ,liist bolow it tboro i^ a rapid of aboiil tlir.'o foot
fall,whitli is run by canoos uilliout dilHcultv. Iron l^ako, tho iioM in suooossion, is a xmail lako foil
of islands; tho usual oaiiuo ruilto llirongli it, wliicli is aUo tlio biiiimlary lino, lioing liinr and a half
mill > long : llio water was of good diptb tho oiitiro way; at llio oast oiiil, wlioro it bci'iiiiios liko a
rivir, llioiv is a "Iroiig oiiiiciit, but wliioh canoos or boats whon axondiiig oan oasily ovcrcoiiio.

liolllo I'ortago, wliicli is 1 18 yards I'liig, inij^lit bo oasily iiiadi' ono ol tho bc^l on tlio roiilo ; tin-
ground is viiy Kvcl oscopt at tho onds, which aro rallior ^tc('p, but by ii liltio inaiiiigoinciil tho path
could bo niado wiili tho proper inclination.

'I'licro is a lung slrolcli ■.'•J milos in length now of imvigablo water through Nci(UH»(pion Lake, tlio
oouroc 'jllowing generally the boundary lino, except about tho contro of the lake, whore it keeps lo
tliu souili of tlio largo JKlaiid.

At tho sooili-wost end there in n porliigo 217 yards long on the .American >i(lo. Very little is
rei(uiroil tu make a good path on Hrltish territory.

After passing tliruugli a Miiiall lake fuur luilos long by the course, a narrow oliannd called Loon's
Narrows is entered. One and tliroo-i|iiMrlor milos from tbo cummcnceiiiont there is a porlngo of '.'(ill
yards on the Ainerican bide. It appeared us if u sliorlor ono, and on as level grunnd, conid bo made
on the liritish nido.

Half a mile from this there is another portage B7 yards long, also on tho Ainoricnn territory,
which iniglit bo traiiBlorro<l, as the other, tu the 'north of the boundary line. Hclow ilio">,o
portages the current ii very strong, and at tho bend the river is very shallow, and the bed covered
with small boiilder.s, winch, however, could Ik; eusily removed and theclmnnel deepened.

As tho wutor was veiy low at the time we passed along, it was oonlined to a clmnnol from two to
four chains in width for a dislunce of six miles, meandering through u viilley which in times of liiyh
wutor is covered as shown on the map.

Sand I'oint Lake may be said to commence here. It is !)^ miles long, and down the ooniro is the
course and boundary line; it is free from any kind of obstruction to good iiavigntion. It is connected
with Nameukun Lake by a strait 10 clinins wide.

I'rom this through Nameukan Lake there arc two coureoii to Hainy Lako, the one following the
boundary lino by the Kettle Falls Portage, of l'J7 yards in length, the other by the eastern channel,
by which the Expoditiun went last year, and which we took this; on it there are two very short
portages, and the course is much shorter than the forimr.

1 have reiraiiicd from oft'eriiig the necessary suggestions for the improvement of thin route, as I
nndei stand Mr. Dawson is lo muke a complete exploration and snrvey of it this year, and ivlio will
tlieroforo be better able to form an opinion as to its capabilities and required improvements.

However, from even the cui^ory examination I was enabled to make, it apiicuis greatly superior to
tho Kamini8ti(|uia route.

It is Ijli miles shorter limn the other. There are fewer portages, all much shorter with the cxcep-

' " as the Savanne, I'ralrio, or (iroat
all more easily run. Kxccpting

-_ . _ vay "connected by short channels, in few of

which only the current is at all strong,

I lliink that with u comparatively small outlay the route could be made navigable for large row
bouts, and that on many parts of it small tug-stenmers could be advantageously employed.

I remain, &c,

Henry Y. Hind, Fsq. (Signed) JAMFS A. DICKINSON.

, ^— ^ —

11 IS oo miles siiorior iimn tile other, iliere are lower portages, i
tion ol the Grand I'ortago ; and none of them are nearly so bad i
Dog I'ortagos. 'I'liero arc very much fewer rapids, and which aro
Pigeon Iliver, it consists of a chain of lakes the whole way connc(

SASKATCHEWAN KXPLORINO EXPEDITION.

••' ' No, III — FoiiT OAnnv to Foiit Ehucr, vi'l riir Lini.r. Houhh.

SiH, I'oit Kllicc, Itiiport't I^nnd, July 0, lAAf).

In tlir Irttrr I Imil tlic lionmir In adrlrosf to von from 1((' Mrtltliinr lii»r, I Mialed
tliat, niter milking tlii> nfCc^Hsry pri'iiiirnlion, I hIidiiIiI iniinciliiituly coitimonrc the explnrntion of tho

u'y of tli(< AHaiiiiiilxiiiii' Uivcr, 'I'ln' >liitru«l, nirl cvrn ilrrnd, witli which thu Hloiix linlinnH urn
ii'l^urduil by iho Hud Uivur huntei'H. iiiiido if ncceunry ii> .t'l'mc ihi> nerviccB of it iilri)ni( piirty tWr the
expliii'ulioii of ihi' Lillle Soiiim oi- Mhiiho llivcr, wIhm-o lirliiiry coid win rnpurlcd to <'xiiit. in
rniimquencc, howi'ViT, of the fuiluri' of last year''* aiiliimii bnfl'uln hiiiil, nnd tlie ravn^cn of the uni»N-
Imppcrx ut I'rairle l'ortaf;e, and i'Ihi'uIk i In the setilruK iif''. moat of the ahli-bnihed inon litted for
thu exigencies of It jonrnoy into the IiuImi ronntry Imd lo(t (he »etllcnieiilii a few daypt lu'foro my
arrival, either for the liulfalo I'hiini or fur St. I'anI; and it waa with some dittioully that 1 could
procure ei^lit nion and the iipceiii<ary provinioim for n three nionilia' journoy ; bill by the 14tb of June
the expedition wait rn rimtr for the interior.

After arriving; at St. .(ttnioVx Church, on tho ytHsinniboino, I proceeded with Mr. DicltiiHon to
aicerlain tlie pii«ilioii of the Hi|^ ItidKe boundini( the valley of tlie .Xxxiriniboinr, nnd followed it*
windings for a diitance of 70 or HO milcH, until it in out by I'lU'tn^o Itivrr near Lake Manilobali,
oppoKilc I'mirio I'ortaije. Afr. Fleming procet-ded wilii ihe earlHanil c:\nocH liy the hnnicrs' road to
I'rairic^ Pc>rtn){e, making; on Ilia way u Hcction of llie AMKiiiniboine River, and nucertJtining by numerous
triairt its rate of eurreiit, volume of water, il(e.

'I'lie Assiiinilioiiie valley. >oiilli of the ni|( Uiilfjc, on ihe iimih xide of the river, conipriHlii^; an area
exeeediii;; half a million acres, was de.ieiil)eil in my report of lii>t year as ponsCHsiiin a -oil of reiiiark-
alile eNci'lleiue, The rcsiilln of a iiiiiie partienlar exainilialinn cliiring the pre-eiil siiisoii fully bear
o'll llie faVDUnibli! iipliilon previously formed.

After reachiiij; I'niiiie I'oilnjje we prociided on the north bank of the AHainnlboine as far ns th«
inonlli of the Lillle .Souris Itiver. During thin part of our journey we oeeiiiiioMally t<tii|ippd for half
a ilay to make the necesaaiy astronomiriil obn'rvalioiif, to nu'a.Hure the valley of the river, and make
Hectlona of iiri bankH.

'I'lie iinpri's«ion. willi which I relurned lo Toronto hint year renaidiug the extent of forest on llic
lianki' ofliiii* river, conliriiu'il iih iliey a|.peared lo be liv all desciiplive ae<cinnt!< I rec ived rroin re-l-
(leiils :it Heil Itiver, leil me lo soppi-e that the As'-iiiMiboine llowed for about HO inile-, from it- luoulli
through a vmkI level prairie limbered only at the pointa or bend.s of itn course. I was much a-tiini.,lieil
to liiid that thU ix true only as regaidx llie inirt/i bank of ilie river, the I'oiiih bank being o; 'iipicd by
forest, wliieli ciuiimences come .'JO niilea from I'lirl (larry, and coveiH lIu- C(mnlry wesiwiird for a
disliiiii'e exceeding lilt inileri, with a depth varying fnnii •') to '2!> milea. We fre<|ueiitly Haw thi.s vast
forest from hills on the north xide of iho rivor covering n trad of cnnntry which could not be les.s
tlian I'i or 1.^) luilcH in breaillh ; and with a good tehscopo the pr.iirle between it and nn extension of
I'enibiiiH Mimntain or Itidge wna Irnced. I have ascertained that the lores! contains some tine limber,
nnd is well known to liidlaiis who hniil tlu're during the winter, but the trails of llie biitfalo hunlerx
avoid it. and keep In tho open prairies; hence its existence even it nnknown to many of ihi' rcMideiiis
at lied Itiver, anil the bulliilo hunters, always eliunning it. have but little knowledge of ila limber
resources.

Il Is my intention on refurniiig to the -(.ttlements In penolrnto through this forest in two or three
directions, with a view lo ascertain it.s chanicirr, ns far as time will nllnw.

It is needless to dwell upon the great importance of »n abundant nnd unexpected a supply of
serviceable timber, within one or two days' journey of n very extensive nnd fertile arable country,
nnd on the banks of a imvignblp river, within n dny's inarch of fort (iiirrr.

The coniitry on the north aide of the Assinniboiiie between Prairie Portage nnd the month of Ihn
Jiillle Souris, for a distance of several miles back from the river, is poor and scantily limbered,
'llie prairies on the Little .Souris nre aliio light, and the deep valley of that river contains but little
timber. At Snake Creek nmnernus speciineiiH of drift lignite were found, and after a few hours'
exploration, favoiirnble indicniinns led ine to have a section of the river's bank exposed, by making a
cutting at right angles lo it, with n view to show thi' strntificntion. Here, no less than four distinct
benches of n former Inke were brought to light, each bench bearing nnmerone rounded nnd polished
boulders nnd pebbles of drift lignite, vnrying Ironi two to fifteen inches in dininetor, but no trnce of
the lignite in place wna seen on the Little Souris north of the 4!>th ]>arnllel. The beaches just
referred lo were several times noticed further np the river ; they nre nccompnnied by n bed of ferru-
ginous sand, nbove which seveml extensive depoMlts of bog iron ore nnd shell mnrl were found.

Having determined, if lime will permit, to return to the settlements »ii<J the Assinniboine in cniioc,
I t<)rbenr for the present from referring to the geology of its rock exposures, further than to state,
that what I have already seen leads me to think it will ri'pny nn attentive nnd cnreful explorntion.

Having renched the 4flth parallel, the expedition proceeded np the bnnka of Ued Doer's Head
River for nbout 15 miles, and then crossed over a treeless prairie, 60 miles broad, towards Fort Ellice.

The hill sides in the valley of the Little Souris River were scored with tracks of biiffiilo. oiid
everywhere we snw the bois dc viiche of last year, but it waa not until arriving nt the Two Creeks
in the Asainniboine vnlley, that we killed a buttiilo bull. The butiitio this yenr nre far south, and
llie hnulcrs have suffered much distress on timt neconnt. Yesterday we snw three bulls nt a con-
aiderable distnncc from us ; they arc considered to be the pioneers of numerous herds, which arc
anxiously looked for by the people of the Fort, wlw are nimoat nltogetber destitnte of pro'-isions.

Kverywbere we find grasshoppera. On ibo Asainnibniue, the brood of lhi» spring is ye^ unable lo
fly, but when traveraing tlw treelcsa prairie between Red Deer'a Head River nnd the Aasinniboine,
innumerable hosts of grnsshoppcrs were flying northward in the direction of the wind. At limes

C 2

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

they would cast n shadow over the prnirio, uiid for several hours one day the sky Crom the horizon
to an altitude of thirty dc^n'ri's acquiri-d an indescribably brilliunt ash-white tint, and seemed faintly
Itiminuu:^ lis the scmi-tran parent wings of countless millions of grasshoppers towards the north and
iiortli-east n flei'trd the light of the sun.

On Monday, July l"2lh, I propose to start for the Saskatchewan by the Qu'Appclle or Calling
Uivei', retiiriiMii; ti> ilie seillctneiits by the end of August.

'I'lie wcallier on ilie whole has l)eeii very lavomable, but in the early part of our journey thunder
s'lorms, for uiiuiy (liiy.'< in siicce<-ion, caused three or four hours delay during their coiuinuance. We
have had si veutoin tluuider-^lonuj in 'J3 days; nearly all were of a violent character, with hail,
lie ivy r.iin, and hoiseious wind''.

We did not .-lee any ludi ins befcae our arrival at Fort l'!liice. On the Ued Deer's Head lliver an
alfempt was iua<le in llie niuhl lo staiupede the horses, wha 'i was li)rlinialely frustrated by the distant
111 iuliMij; iif a lior.se reacliiiiL' our ears and ^ivi'g us tiuie lo take precautionary measures, but the
tr.icks of lio-tile Indians clll^e to our ciuip were found in the nurniiig.

This letier is written in ilie expectation that siaiie hunters may soon bo returning, viil I'ort Kllice,
to Ued Kivir for supplies, who will be instructed by Mr. Mclvae, the gentleman in charge at I'ort
Ellice, to place it in the post-otticc at Fort (jarry.

I have, Kc.
(Signed) JIKNUY V. IllND.
The Hon. T.. I. J. Loraiifier, MV.V.,

Provincial Secretary, 'I'oronto, C.W.

Sin,

I\'. — Four I",i.i,i( i: TO riii: Soltii Uu.ancii ok rni; i>.\sK.\rciir.w.\N, rniiNi k to Foiit A i,.\

CoiiNi: AM) Ki'.n l{ivi:i;.

■

licil liiver. .■"ieiitrinlier 1(», l^'.")8.

On tile I8tli of tluly. or nine days after the date of ilu' report wliicli I had the lionuiir to
address to yon from Fort lllice, we arrived at the Uu'.\|ipelle Mission, leceiitly I'staUlislied on one
of ihc lake^ wliieli distin^uisli that part of llie (Jii'Appclle or (ailing Kivcr v.iljey.

F'rom tlie littli of June lo the Ifith of .Inly, it was found necessary or advantageous lo preserve
the partv coiiiposiiiL; thi~ expediiion united, but h iving arrived in ihe Cree coniilrv, to the north of
the prairies generally oiciipied by bauds of .Sioux and .\ssinnil)oiiie Imliaiis, 1 hiiiiiii it desirable lo
form three divisions, with a view lo traverse and examine the country hereafter described.

The .Mission of the (^n'.Appelle Lakes is situale<l about half-way between Fort F.llice and the
sniitli br.iiK li of the Saskatcliewaii. From this point Mr. Dickinson, with two men. proceediil in a
small lai oe down the l^ii'Ap|iellc ItiviT, to its junelion with the Assinniboine, thence on horseback
to Fort I'c ly, while lie ii.et Mr. Ihmc wiili hiur men, who. alter having e.xaiuiiied l.oug Lake,
some ;'>0 miles we-t el' the (JirA|ipelle Mission, travelled across the country to Fort I'l liy, with
Mr. Dickinson's carts and suppliis.

'I'lie third division of the parly, comprising iiivseb, Mr. I'leming, and two men, sailed or tra<>ked
up the (JirA|ipelle Lakes and Kivcr to tlic (irand Forks, a liisiaiice of .")(! miles, where three men,
with or.r supplies, met lis at the aiipointed time ; we then lollowed the valley of the (ju'Appc lie
liiver to its source, and passed on through a coniiiiuatioii of the same valley to the south branch of
the .S.iskaliliewan by the " liiver that turns," flowing winterly.

We struck the .s>iiiith liraiicii at the Klbow, and l.iunched our tbree-fatlioin canoe on that magiiili-
ceiit river, down which Mr. I'leming and I drifted for 2.V1 miles, until we came to the junction of
the north and south liiaiiches of (he Saskatchewan.

I'be supplies, with lour men and a Ciee guide, were sent across the country lo Fort li la Coriie,
opposite the Nepowecn Mission, about \» miles below the Forks. 'Fwo days were occupied ill
examining part ol the Coal Falls on the North Ibanch, above the Forks; after which we joined the
carts on the !'tli of .Aiijiust at Fort a la Corne, Mere I made aiiotht r division, sending Mr. Fleming
with two men in a canoe to Cumberland, thence lo proceed down the Siskalchewaii, and by the west
coa.st of Lake Winnipeg to lied liiver. Taking the carts and four men, 1 followed the course of Long
Creek against the current, running parallel to the South llraiich for a distance of .'><» miles; then,
turning in a south-easterly direction, travelled across the country to the Touchwood Hills, and thence
to Fort Kllice, where, after an absence of 4il days, I met Mr. Dickinson and his party within three
miles of our appointed rendezvous.

After Mr. Dickinson's arii'al at Fort I'elly, he proceeded with Mr. Hime to examine the Hanks of
the Dauphin Moiinlain, I'rc.n Swan liiier to Hapid liiver or the Little Saskatchewan, u tract of
country comprehending tic greater portion of the uortli eastern water-shed of the Assiniiiboiiie.
Alter our union at Fort i Jlice we pioceeded to Ued liiver titi the While Mud River, which flows
into Lake Maniiobah, and .irrived at the settlements on the 4th of September, nearly three months
from the ihite of onr departure.

Mr. 1 It'iiiing has not yet lelurned, and I am now preparing to go in a canoe with a supply of
provisions to iiuct him, in case the soiilherii wind should prevent him from advancing.

The impm'tiince of asccrt.iining the true cliar.icter of the (Ju'.(Vppclle Valley became more evident
as we proceeded westward and met with Indians and a few half-breeds, whose accounts and descrip-
tions seemed to agrie in the general statement that u great valli'y, a mile or a mile and a half broad,
and Iroiii lot) to 'MO leet deep, did exist, ruuniiig in u course nearly due east and west, between the
south branch of the Saskutcliewan and the Assinniboine.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

The Qu'Appellc River rises witliin 12 miles of the Saskntciiewnn, us shown on the nccompanying
map. Its course is first nortiierly for several miles, tliroiij;h a narrow gully wiiich widens into a deep
valley before it reaches the Qu'Ap])elle Valley proper. About four miles west ol'the Qu'Appellc, and
running in u direction nearly parallel to it, a river called by the ("rees of the Sandy Hills " The Kiver
that turns," Hu'vs into the same great valley, and pursues for l'2 miles a westerly course, when it fall.s
into the South Itraneh at the I'dbow ; this is evidently the Heart Kiver of 'rhoni|i.soii's Maj). Hy the
united action of these rivers, and other agents to he described in full in my general Report, a great
valley stretching from the .'^agkatchewan to the As.sinniboine has been excavated. This valley has a
greatest breadth of about one and a half, and a Ica-I l)ruadth of about 1 alf a mile at the Siiiidy Hills;
its greatest depth below the I'raiiie is between .'iO(> and 100 fei-r, its liast depth l.'iO feet, nctwcou
liie Qu'Appellc Kiver and the " Kiver that turn.s," tlieie i.-< a space of about lour miles occupied by
ponds in the valley, which unilt^ into a .'•hallow lake in llie spring and send their waters at the same
time to the Assiuniboine and the Saskalchewan. Willi a view to determine the height of the
Qu'Appellc, where it enters the great valley, above the Soulh ISranch, we levelled from one river to li.e
other, and found a dill'crence, in I'J niiUs, of 8() leit. The Qu'A|>l>elle is here about 10 h'ct broad
and one and a half deep. The '■ Kiver that turns," nearly ol the same (hmeiihioiis, and the south
branch of the Saskalchewan about half a mile broad with a channel 10 lect deep. These altitudes
and distances are given in round numbers, but tliey will be accurately expressed in accordance with
repeated measurements in my general Keport. In order that llic waters of the Saskatchewan might
flow down ihc (iu'Appille Valley into the Assinniboiiu', a rise of 80 feet in l"J miles would have to be
overcome, and 1 am per.sua<h'd bum indubitable evidence that ibis has not occurred during mudern
times. During very wet seasons, in ibe e,ir!y spring monlhs, the whole valley of ihe (ju'Appelle
from within 1-1 miles of ihe sontli branch of the .'^,i»kat<'hewan, ii converted iulo a narrow, shallow
lake, all lh<' way to the .V-simul)oine, a distance exceeding "J.-jO miles, with a current of [lerhaps one
mile per hour; and from the " Kiver lliat tunis," to the Smilli Ibandi, a di>tani'e ol l°J miles, an
impetuous torrent occupies the valley, leaving along its course many indications of its violence and
force. In the spring of Its.'rJ, ever reinaikable in ibis country for ils extreme humidily, a canoe
nii^lit have passed tioni the S.iskatchewan to the .\ssiniiil;oiiie by rising f^O leet in I'J miles; then
doceiidiiig about 'JOO feet, in a distance ol' |ierliiip~ ".'."iO miles to the A-sinniboine. The (^n'Appelle
Lakes easi of llie mi-s:on are hriilly described in the ai lonipaiiying Keport by Mr DiekiiiMin. The
l.ikes wist of the mi>«ion iire I'liir in number; lliedeiith ol ilnei ol'llicm is about .'(O feet, the last or
Salt Lake near the Height of Land is very slialloH, and dins not contain in the Minmicr months
drinkable water.

rrmn the fir.-t lAu'l, riile accompanying map, another greit valley sini lar in all respects to that of
the (iu'Appelle Kiver, stretches In a north-westerly direction, and for 40 or ,)0 niiles is occn|)icd by
waler. forming a long, narrow lake, varyiu'.,' from tlinc-iiuarters of a mile to two miles i'l breadth ;
this i^ called by the frees, tlu' Long Lake, also the Last Mcnintain Lake: it i^ I'oiineeled with the
Siiskaiebev.an by a broad excavated chaiiml. similar lo that occupied by the " Kiver that turns."
Long Lake abounds in fish, but there is very liltle timber to be found on ils ~teep elli'like b.inks.

'I'he south branch ol'the Saskatchewan is a noble river, varying in width from h:\lf a mile to .'JOO
yards, fi'r a <lislance of 100 miles from the KIbow : it then gradually conlracts its chanml and
changes lis chaiaeter from a rivir lull of sanil-hars and mud-llats, pursuing a comparatively straight
course to a rapid and iiiiilurm torreni of walei', swei [liiig down the narrow but deep valley it has
excavated, from one bank to the other in niiigiiilieent ciirvi's until it joins the north branch.

The coiHilry on the south Mile of the South I'ranch as fir as the .Moose ^\oods is a light (irairie ;
there is very little timber to be sihii, and all of >mall diuiensioiis ; the same maybe said of the
Qu'Appelle valley; open prairie on I'ither side, or prairies covered with clmn|is of aspen. In the
mimerous gullies wbiih give variety lo the steep banks of liolh the (jii'.\ppelle and .Saskatchewan
valleys small limber is invariably found. The main Saskatchewan is a river of very imposing mag-
nitude. Like the South Kr.incb it occnpiis a narrow, dei p valley, varying in width from one and a
half to three miles, extending a tew mihs below the Nepowien Mi-sion. It flows in grand curves
from side to side, and its general level is about .'iOO feet below the country through which it has
excavated ils channel, afterwards it enters the low region.

We have nuide many sections of the .South Krancli, Main Saskatchewan anil (ju'Appclle, &e., and
nninerous trigonometrical measurements of their valleys, and noticed eontinually Ihe rate of currents,
volume of water, character of banks, See. ^c., all of which will be embodied in the general Keport. In
the large expanse ol country over which our explorations have extended, the area of laud ol the first
qimlily, namely, of black vegetable nioiild reposing mi gravel or day, is fir inure extensive and
important than we aniicipaled. It is distributed as follows : —

I. On the south branch of the Saskatchewan from the Moose Woods to the Xepowewin Mission, and
according to the description of half-breeds familiar with the coniitry. a .-oil of Kjual excellence
extends to the valley of Swan Kiver. The iuimediate banks of the Saskatchewan are of a poor,
sandy, or gravelly soil, but on the prairie phitean three mihs from the river, the rich .soil commences,
and ill the ]iart over which I pas.scd, has a breadih of sixty miles. •_'. The Tonchwood Hill lange,
Imving an area exceeding 1,000,000 acres; fin- beauty of scenery, richness of soil, and adaptation lor
settlement, this is by liir the most attraclive area west of the Assinniboiiie. ."i. The soil is of first
ipiality in the valley of .'>wan Kiver, and over the whole ol ihe east water slu'd of the Assiiiniboine,
with the exception of the country near its hanks. 'I. The valley of \Miile Mud Kiver i> generally
fertile and inviting. Until the maps which will accom[iaiiy the general Ke[i(U't are prepared, it is
impossible to give an ap|iroxlmate calculation ol the aria of available arable land, but 1 may here
Bay, that the ratio wblcli land vX excellent quality bears to land of indill'erent or woilhlcss quulily in
the regions just referred to is largely in favour of the former.

C 9

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Tlio EidiiifT Mountain, na dcscribeil in Mr. Dickinson's report, is timbered with large nspen. On
the ii'vcl country drained by tiic SnsJtatcht'wan, from the Moose Woods to tiio Ncepoween Mission, the
timber is hmall, but on the Touciiwood Hill range tiicrc arc some fine aspen forests.

1 liave succeeded in finding numerous rock exposures on the Qu'Appclle and south branch of the
Saskatcliewan, wiiicli will enable me to produce a geological map of a large portion of the country
briefly described.

1 ^'tavt inunediately lo meet Afr. Fleming, and then propose to visit the east flank of Danphin or
Riding Mountain, and the Salt Springs on Dau[)hin River and Lake.

Mr. Dickin.'ioii will examine the coinitry south of the Assinnibnine with a view to ascertain the
extent and eharacter of tlie forest to wiiicli allusion was made in my report from Fort Ellice.

I have, ^c.

Hon. T. .r. .1. Loranger, M.P.P. (Signed) H. Y. HIND.

Provincial Secretary, Toronto.

No. Y. — Mil. Dickinson's Rf.pout on the Qu'Appki.i.k Vallf.v East of the Mission.-

Pki.i.v to the lUi'iD Rivi:ii.

-1'"()IIT

Sill, Red River, September fi, 18.")8.

Tiir. following Iiepnrt contains a short description of those parts of the country which 1 have
exaniiiii'd acecrdinL; to your letter of itKlnictioiis, dated I'orl Kllice, .Inly I2tli, 18.''>8, together with
a 1)1 ief notice (it >()iMe of my u|ieraticins tVoni .Iiily j!lllli, the day wc parted at th(^ (^hiircii of Kngl.nid
Mi-sion, (ju'-Vpiicllr Lake, till we met at I'lai Hllice on Aiigii-t "J.'til. After our sepaiatl(Ul at the
head i)f the liver i.->uiiig frmn the Lake at llii' Mission, I took ii section of the lied of the river and
ascertaiiieil the rate of the enireiil, and then proceeded down it to the next lake, which is the .second
of tlio>e called the risliiiit; Lakis, iis fi>li ari' miirli more ahuiidaiil in these than in those lakes
fiii'ther down the (Jii'.Vppelli' \'alley.

'I'lie eliaiaeter of this pcirtiou of the liver which coiineels lliesi- two lakes together, lieing exactlv
similar id that dI' all oilier parts of it, mie general ili'-cription will sii(lii-i'. Ii);;<tlier with special
dcsi riplions of ii few places wln're tlu re ai'e dillereiiees.

1 he river vaiie- in width IVdiii one 111 one Miiil a half cliiiius, and in depth frnni two to live feet;
the average rate of ciureiit taken rmin ^eveial irial- heing one and a <piailer miles per hour, 'i'lie
river is most wonileifnlly torliions tliniiiglioiit its entire liiigtli ; for ever being ihllected from one
?ide of the valhv lo llie ollu'r, so that il is niiu'h more than doiilile tlie length of tin- valley; several,
iiideid iiici>t of the bend-, are so very >liarp that it was with uuich dinicnlty the .-mall canoe, only
two and a half lallioin> long, could lie suvrid safely round llieiii and prevented IVoiu rniniing in on
the banks, the ciirri lit at some of llieiii being two miles per hour.

Tlie -( eond of the " I'i-liing Lake.-,"' the one which 1 lir-t came lo, is aboiil three and a half miles
long and three (piasters ol a mile liroad ; it is more than seven fatlionis deep cvirywhere I tried it,
even within a fiw yards of llio shore, 'i he river flowing from this to the next lake is lint half a mile
long. fill' name of the lake in Cree is '' Pa-ki-tali-»i-wiii.'' in I'.nglish the ' rishing Lake,'' called
so /Kii i'.in//iiiie from the great (piantilies of t\>\\ it contains at -oiiie periods ot' the year. It is about
six miles long and three i|Uarlers of a mile wide, which is about the average width of the valley. J
trird the de[itli of it in several places along the course 1 to<ik. wliieh was down the middle of it, and
found il lo vary from fl'f' to I'leveii fathoms.

Having made a -cclion of the river and ascertained the rale of current, I proceeded down it lo the
next lako called the 'Crcioked Lake,' or ill Cree " Kawa-wa-ka-mae.'' where I arrivi'd in the hire-
uooii of the "JJid. The general character of this portion of the river is the same as I have given
111 fore, hut at -uiiie |ilaces here and tlu re it vai ii'S from il. In two places, ca<'li about a (|iiarter of
a mile long, the river is full of sand and gravel bars, the depth of water over llieni being only about
nine iiiclies. In aiiolher placr the ciirrenl exceeds three miles an hour, to ascend which would indeed
lie a ti-dious mill i!iflieiilt ta-k. Halfway hetwi ill tlicH' twii liiki's 1 look measurements for calculating
irigonoiiiMriiMlly llie width and diptli ol the viilley. 'J'lie re-nlls of these and other nieasnrement.s
and oli-ei'vatioii- will be slinwn on the iiiajis. In round iinmher.- I may sa_\, however, that the valley
appeiii- to he Irom •J.jit to •'i.'iO leet die|i, and (roiii hall a mile lo one in width. The average height
of the iiinnidiate hanks of tint river over the present level of water was about .^ix feet, the high water
mark heing light leet over the same level. The greater jioition of the valley is therefore always
liable In lir flooded, which I heliive is the ease every spring.

llie middle ol ilic valley between the bends of the river is mostly covered with willows, with here
and tin ir a li'w young -ugar maple. The sonlh ^lope of the valley is thickly covered ihroiighont
with -mall a-peiis, llie lialsam |ioplar growing well also in pome places, while the north slope is ipiitc
bail' of tree, whiih 1 I'oiind to he caused by the lires which almost every year sweep along this side of
the valley, for 1 saw in several places llic remains ol burnt trees, and in the hollows and decj) recesses
of the slope the yonni; oak shoots springing up lioin the half burnt roots.

( )n tlii- -ide for the whole way there is ;i track, along which the Inilians Iravi 1 constantly during
the year, wliicli accounts fir the nnnicioiis (ires.

" Crooked Lake, ' the most beautiful of tlii' Qu'Appclle lakes which I have .seen, is ii])wards of
eight miles ill lenglli, and from hall a mile to one mile in breadth. There are several long ]ioiiits
rnnniiig out lioiii the shore, on which grow oak, elm, ash, and poplar ; none of lliciii very large,
however, hut which would be useful for various purposes. 'I'herc was no place where 1 sounded less
than lour luthoms deep. The water in tins lake, as well as in the others, wau at this time rendered

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

very disngreeablo by the jjreat quantity of coiit'ervee, covering nearly the whole surface and to somo
deptii, now decaying and rotting under the hot sun.

At the comincncenu'nt of the nixt portion of the river llowing out of this lake there is a very rapid
current, or rutiier a series of xniall rapids, for two niiieii and a half, and the river is, if possilile, more
winding than ever, and is at some places only 40 feet wide. 'l"he rest of it, cross sections of which 1
took at different points, as fur as the next lake, rescnihle in its character the general description of
the river. In the evening of Jidy 'i4th I reached the lake calleil " Kound Lake," the Indian name of
which is " Ka-wah-wi-ya-ka-niac ;" it is the last of the chain of lakes in descending the river.

It is four and a half mile.') in length, .ind is id)out one mile hruad in the widest part. Owing tc a
long point of land running out from the south side of the valley, ahuut one mile and a half from the
head of the lake, part of it looks nearly round, from which it derives its name. It is, in all places
where 1 sounded it, more than four fatlioiiis deep, e.xcept at the month of the river and one hundred
yards from it, where it was oidy two feet. 1 he soiilh slope of llie valley is here as densely covered
as before with young poplar, and with patches of young oak, elm, and ash, and the north slope is
burnt as n~iial by the devastating (ires. Two miles down the river from tlie lake, the bed is thickly
strewed with boulders for about one hundred yards, where the current is very strong, makint; the
navigation, even for a small canoe, rather intricate. The Indians call this place the " .Stony Harrier,"
or, as it is in the free language, " A-si-ne-pi-che-p(^e-ya-kan."

Hetween this [loiiit of the (^u'Appelle Itiver and its conlhience with the AssiiiMiboine, there were
two places, one on eacli s-ide of the valley, wln're the slopes were e.\|)ci:.ed; on txamiiiing them, I
found shale in position, but very nuich decoiiiposc-d. These places will be marked on the mi") here-
after. After a long search 1 found but one fossil shell, whieli I enoldse to you, together with
speeimens of the rock. At many places I asuenled the si<les of the valley to see the eoinilry on both
bide.s, and fonnd it to be fj;enerally level prarie, of li^ht s.nidy liiaiii. with scatti'red eluiiips of willows
and small poplar.s. .Several small creeks, the |n'incipal of which .ire the Big and i.itlle-enl-arms iuul
the .Seis-or.s creek, llowing in from both sides, erradually incieii>e the <lei)th of the river, hot not its
width, six feel being now the average ileptli. The river, twisting and turning about in every
direction, is coiiliiiually enlting out new channels, foifiiiiig sometimes a innst intricate ma/e. .\s it
approaches the Assinniboiiie, the (^u'Appelle X'alli'V get- wider, and the slopes flatter, on «liicli grow
mme and better timber, on the south side particularly : it consists ol' elm. asli, aspen, balsam, poplar,
aiid maple, all minified together, with an niideiwood of willows, dogweod, lia/el, anil roses. I arrived
at the month of the river a .section of which I look ) at (i a.m., , Inly "JTlh. Having left one man in
chaif^e of the l)aggai,'e at the landing place. 1 hastened to Fort l!llieewith the otlii'i, and sent liiin
back with a cart whieb Mr. .McKay kindly lent me to feteh it. Tlie ne\t day 1 was di layed several
hoiir.s trying to procure a guide who knew the track on the west sicie of the river from this to I'ort
I'elly. and in eonse([Ui>nce was not able to start till late in the al'teniooii. -Mr. M( Kay kindly sent
men to assist me in eros-ing iIk^ (^u'.Vppelle lliver, which was aceonipli-hed without any los,~. and
with but one aeeideiit, my horse reeeivint; ralliir a bad cut when uietliiijj; up the hank of the river,
which was very soft, anil covered with broken trees. We camp.d lor the nij;lil on the north >iile of
the valley ; this side is eomiiosed of line loose ^and. iiitei mixed with ^iiiall boulders. I'l'oni this to
the Wolverine t'l'eek, a distance of about I.) miles, the land is li^hl >aiiily clay, in many ph'.ces pure
sand, eiivcrcd princi|ially with a low ^rowing creeiier, bearing berries like the juniper: the f,'ra?s is
very .short and scanty, and the aspiai-, which are the only trc •<. are very sin:ili. I'nriher on, the
eoiintry improves very much as to its soil and \egetalioii, but it aboiuiils with marslie-, swamps, and
ponds of various sizes, round wliich L;row willow and young aspens, and tlii:- is for about (>0 miles.

I'roni thence to I'ort I'elly the eoiiutry is den-ely covered with aspens from live to 1.) feet hii;h.aiid
willows of dilfeient kinds; there are open -paces to be seen now and then, where the wunilerl'iil
luxuriance of tln^ vegetation is beyond de^crlptiou. Lakes ami ponds are viry numerous throughout,
encircled with large aspens and balsam (loplars.

There are several rivers and creeks llowing into t!ie .\ siuuiboine, into which many ol'tluse marshes
and swamps niii;ht be easily diained. Whit'' Mud River, which i- the larjiest of them, i? 7(1 feet
wide, four feet deep, and very rapid, so raiiid that it was with much ditlicnlly we lorded it.

1 arrived at Tort I'elly on .\ugHst 1st, where I liiuiid Mr. I lime and the others of my parly.
Next day I took observations fiir latitude and ViU'iation of compass, and in the afternoon, accompanied
bv Mr. Macdoualil, who was in teinpoiary charge of the fort, inspected the farm wliiih the ('om|iany
have here. 'I'he crops had been beautiful at the beginning of the season, but ha\e been all, excepting
the |M)tatoc, completely devoured by the grasshoppers The next day 1 rode to Swan Uiver, by the
valley of Snake C'reek, with Mr. Macdonald and .Mr. llime. This beanlifnl valley contains all the
leipiireineiits necessary for a settlement. The timber is very plentihil and of a good si/e: there is no
pine, however, but the balsam spruce, which the people here mistook llir it. is ahnudanl, and averages
two feet in diameter at five feet from tin- groiuid. There is somo tamarack also, tall and stiai|ilit. from
1 ft. fl in. to 2 feet in diameter. The balsam and aspen poplar grow to a large si/e, and are every-
where to be had. The land, for the most part, is good sandy loam, and is traversed by numerous
crei'ks.

Snake Creek is about 13 feet wide, and I ft. 6 in. deep ; it yields plenty of fish, as also do one or
two small creeks running into it. Swan liiver is from !)0 to 100 feet wide and 14 feet ileep ; its
current is very rapid, being about three miles an hour ; it is very winding where the .Snake ('reek
joins it, and I believe is so all along. The valley, which is from rtO to 100 feet below the general
level of the country, is most rich and fertile, but almost altogether filled u\) with trees, such as poplar,
balsam, spruce, and willows. The next day, .Vugust 4tli, we left Fort I'elly, and proceeded along the
base of the Duck Mountain, a part of the chain of mountains called the Dauphin ; proiierly speaking,
it is a high ridge between the Assinniboiiie River and Lake Manitobah. The urouiid rises gradually

C 4

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

from tlie river towards tlie summit of tlie so-calk-d mountain, wliicli appeared about three miles
distant, and is thickly covered witli poplar, so thick tliat the forest is nearly impenetrable.

The land for a few mili's is rather light, but it then becomes much better, and for the whole way to
the Little Saskatchewan or Kiijnd river (the eastern limit, accordinj^ to your letter of instructions, to
this line of exploration), Ihi' land may be said to bo ijood sandy loam.

In a short report, as tiiis must necessarily be, I cannot fjive descriptions of the different portions
into which tliis side of the valley of the Assinniboino may he divided, but taking; it as a whole, I may
say, that in fertility of soil, limber, and water power, it surpasses all other parts of the country I have
seen. I made several allempt.-" to reach the summit of the mountain, ))articularly that part called the
Hiding Mountain, but was baffled each time by the extraordiimry thickness of the wood of yonng
poplars, among which there were lying the hall-burnt remain.>» of older trees concealed by the long
grass, vetches, eonvolvnii. and iiuunnerable other phmts.

1 cannot p'ss by, however, the valley of the Little Saskatchewan without making a special note of
it. We reatiicd it on lllh August, and the next day 1 was able, fortunately, to take observations for
latitude, kv., for early in the atternoon the sky iKcame cloudy and a thunder storm camo on; next
morning, accompanied by Mr. Ilimc, who has been giving me great assistance in making the survey,
I rode on horseback up the valley ; we ciudd only go, however, 15 miles, as the trees and underwood
became then so niarvellonsly dense as to make it (piile impassable for horses.

The valley is about 80 feet below the general level of the country; the bottom of it is from half a
mile to one mile wide, through which the river winds its way, flowing rapidly and uniformly ; it is
about forty leet wide, and at this lime was live feet deep. There is no appearance of the valley ever
being flooded, the willows which grow along its banks being green and luxuriant down to the ground.

'I'liere are large open flats occurring freipiently on both sides of the river, where the richness of the
grass and beauty ol the various flowers prove the great ferlliily of the soil, places marked out by
nature to be cultivated and iidiabited by man ; there is abundance of good sized poplar aiul balsam
spruce, sutticienily large for building and farming purposis.

I followed the course of the valley down to its junction with the valley of the Assinniboine, and for
the greater pan of the way it is rich and fcrlije, as is also llie land adjoining. Within a few miles of
the Assliniibtiine the eoinilry changes cimsiderably, the soil is unich liglilii-, and the trees fewer and
smaller: and at the juiielion of the vallies the coinitry is very poor imleod, being .sandy and gravelly
clay, abounding w illi granite Ijonlders of various .'izes.

i iclnnicd then by llie same way to the Ir.uk edied "The Lower Koad " from Red Hiver to Fort
Elllce, to where il crosses the Lilllo .Saskatchewan, and where I hid left the greater number of
my parly.

From thence I proceeded by this track to I'orl Kllice, slopping one day at .Shoal Lake in order to
make a survey of it; as this track joins the White .Mu<l Koad about IH miles from the Little
Saskatchewan, which we travelled hack logdiier from Fort KUiee to Ited Kiver, I need not give you
any description of the country through which it passe-.

Vours trulv.

II. Y. Hind, F.s.i., (.Signed) JAML-S A. DICKINSON.

\-c. \c. .Sic.

\o. \1. — Itin l{iw:n Srrii.r..\ii:\rs lo riii. .S\i.r Klgion o.\ WiNsiercio-sis Lakk, thknci to tiik
.^uvMir ur nil'. UmiNc Mointmn — ■riii.N( i: to riii; .Sktti imlni'.

Sia,

I iiwr. the lioman' lo ri port ili" !••
Lake, and ol' the country traversed since

lied Uivir Selllemeni, Novendi> : f, l8.")H,
■'.dt ol an exploration of ihe Salt Region tm W innepego-sis
the 18th Septend)er (llie d.iy of my deparinre from Red
River) 111 Ucloher ;Usl. Accompanied by Mr. Fleming, 1 skirted ihe west coast of Lake Winnipeg
in a Ivid River I'reighlei's boat, with a crew of seven men, as far as the mouth of the Lillle
Saskatchewan I'.ivir. ( lur pro','ri'«s llirougli the southern half <if Lake Wiiniipeg was delayed by
conlrarv wind-, wliii li, however. alluriKd me lime and oppiutuiiily to collect nuineious specimins in
illuslratioii of ihe rocks exposed on ihe islands and ciiasi, aixl lo accinuulale malciials for a geological
map (if ihi' cuniilry

Numerous rock ex|iiis\ues, showing sandsloms. lime-louis, and shale of .Silurian age, are met with
some tiO miles norlli of the moulh of l{i'il River. On some of the i>lands ihe exposures are,
geologically, of great iuUresl ; bill, wiih ihc exopliou ol sandstone fit for buililiug pniiioses or the
manulactnre of grindstones, and of yellow ochre of line (piality, in a silicions limestone rock, no
economic materials of parlicniar inteirsl or value were seen.

The we<t coast of Lake Winnipeg, after passing (iriudstoiie Point, is very deeply indented with
bays, whose exlremitie- caioiot always be seen fiom the traverse bel«een the iioints at tin ir outlets.
Frei|ninl sonialiiigs showed (iO feet lo he the grealest depths in the part of the lake we visited, !■_' to
24 feet being the general de|)lli within two mdcs of the shore. In no point set n do the rocky i scarp-
menls exceed (lO feet in altitude; hut when they are found having that ehvalion, ihfy present a
succession of wild, pieturesqne, and rugged scenes.

The lowest rock, often at the water's edge, is a sandstone, very friable, and easily disintegrated by
waves and atmospheric agents. Above this a limestone, heauilfnllv stratified, and of u hard and
compact character, occasionally projects for many leet, the beach lieluw being strewed with largo
masses, which have fallen off from lime to time. In the slialy portion, numerous nodules of iron
pyrites occur, assimilating the forms of shells, spheroids, discs, Ike. liuth the limestone and sandstone

■ i

SASKATCHEWAN EXl'LOUING EXPEDITION.

■

nro iK'iii'ly destitute of fossils, but the sliiilc eontiiliis ciiliiin fDniis in gi'ciil iil)iiii(liiiicr, in ii very iVnuilo
condllioii. The rocks on the west coast of Luke UiiinilK';^', and on ininiv of the ishinils, iiiv
fo.-isiiifcToiis, while the east sl(h> is wiioljy I.anivuli.in. 'i'lic l/uiic nlian and fo^.-ililiion? roclis (jftcn
iipproaeh one nnollier; but I was nut furtiinate (.'iiuiigli to find (in the last side llie fos^ildlronri looks
i'eposin<r on the Lanrentiaii.

Om' course to the Salt Kcfjion lay up the T<i;ik' Saskatchewan, a fnic, bioad livcr, leading iVoin
Lake Manilobah into Lake AVinnipcj;', and forming' the diiel' outlet by which the diaiiias^c water of a
very large tr.ict of country finds its way to the sea. The Little Saskatchewan (lows for 10 to IH miles
throii}i;h a Hat country, between clay l)anks, which never exceed ;;0 I'ect in altitude. The river is
rn|)id, and in some parts shallow, its channel beini; often ohslructcd by boulders, allhou/^h it nowhere
oi)poses an obstacle to the passaji;e of craft drawinfi' less than two and a half feel Wiiter, This river
issues fioni St. Martin's Lake, a sheet of water alaint UO miles loni; and l(i broad. The rocks in
St. Marlins 1/ake posset's ^omc reniaikable fjeolojfical Vi latiims. Near the narrows, at its ea.sleiii
extremity, are two f;iieis.-5oid i-lands, and chise to thcui one ol nietanioriiliDsed sandstone, with the
tilted strata of sand-tone inclined at an alible but a li^w dcgieivs from the venieal. We-t ol these
gneissoid islands, and about hall a mile distant from llieni, Su^.ir Island (ii-clnse-. clilVs of nu'tamor-
pho.'icd sandslone, inclined at an ani;le of ■l.'i de^^rees, and (li|i|iin|f X. 70 \V. 'fhis sand-tone contaiiirt
some very obscure fossil remains, in whicli the stim-i of cnciiiiiies were tluiu^hl to have been
recoi;iii/.e(l.

The occurrence of melainorphosed Silurian strata, evtn on a small scale, is of vtry jrreat interest.
The gnei-soid rcK'ks were tiaviT.-ed by i[narlz and f bpathie viin.- ; but allhongh a carifnl search
was made lor the precious nu'tal. none was luiind.

Snjjir Island is named l'i(Hntlie ash-leavid maple, vbich i,'niws ihere, aiid furnislies a sup|)'y of
suffar to the Inilians who inhabit this part ol the country. AlioiU sis nules west of .Suijar Island,
horizontal and undisturbed limcsliine, hij;bly fossilifemu-, is si en exposed in clill's aliout 1(> I'l el hi^b
on Thunder Lland. so namid in remejnbrance .)f a ihuniler slorin of jireat violence, !ieei m[)auiid
by hail and rain, which detaiue 1 us on the alteruijon of Septembvi' "Jisili. St, Martin's Lake is vi ry
shallow, ami in many paits thickly set «ith wieds. liy the action ol' ice, lonu; seiui-cijeular
accinunlations of boulders have been driven np in i-hallow places, formini^ n el'-, which soon be:;<aue
island-, or, comieclinji; with the main land, cut elf !arj;c portions ol' the l.d.e, and <i\w ri.-e to the
formation of marshes and swamps in thiir rear. 'I'lie ellect of ll.i- is fjradually to dimini.-h the size
oftliel.d^c on one side, and probably to increa-e it, thon!j;li not to the s.nne exlent, in another
direction. The-c consiaut chan;;i s were ob-erved on a In ijer scale, some wi ck- l.itc r, in
\Vinnipef;o-s's and Daupliin I,:ikes, and will be fully diseu-sid in my general lieporl. Their n lation
to the past hi^ilory and piobable I'ulnre of an e\ti n-ive portion of the country ineluded within the
salt region, is vi ry in-truelive and cnrinns. .">!. Martin's Lake nceives the waters of Parlridyc
Crop Kiver, which Hows for the most |iart tlntiu^li a (hit liiui .-tone country, not ten I'eet above
the present level of the lake, an<l ol;en not (ive feet iihove the river ; many parts, indeed,
bcin;{ even now nothiu;^ more than extensive wile .-prcad niars!!C>, thi'mi!;li which the river
meanders.

At the tippi r cid of l',Mtridj;e Crop I'liver, ihe Mi^-iiai of l',;irfoid i^ ( stid)lishcil, wheie ] was
very hospitably cntc riaimvl by the l!ev. Mr. Sla;;;;. The pie-ent prosp' els of this ,Mi-siou
are at (irst sight enconrai^iu;;; but, uheii the nnndier of years durir.;,' which Missiiuiary labour has
been directed to the Inilians frei|UentinLC Partridge Cn.p liiver anil the ueighboinini; conniry is
considered, perlia|is no more hopeful results amiaiL; adults have bei n oftaiuid than c„n l)e di>oeriied
at other stations of bygone re|intiiti(Mi and worn-out resources.

We entired Lake .Manitobah on the •JfHh Sc) teinbcr, and fortunately found some fine roek
expo>nres on the ca.-.t coast, which will enable me to c.iiiy on the succession of rocks in liiir oiiler
<.(' occurrence. .V f w days sailing and pulling brought us to the iii.iuth of Water Hen Uiver,
which wo a-ccndcd, ami entered Uater Hen Lake, then p;>.ss!ug on to W Innipego-sis Lake, we
arrived ;it the .Salt ."Springs, .about >ix miles north-we-l of Mo-s liiver, on the ."xli Oetolar. We
spent two ilays at this place, occupying the tinu' in making a plan of the works and springs, and
examiuiog the surrounding country. It may be sunieieiit here to stale in relatiim to the maiin-
(iicture of salt, that the method employed is of thi' rnde-t and most primitive de-criplion, never-
thelcss the salt obtaiiud is abund.mt in cpiantity and excellent in ipiality. Wells to the depth of
(ive feet are smd< near the spot where a little bubbling brine spring is (iinnd. 1 saw several of
these springs at some distance from the wells, which, to tlie nnmlur ol twenty six, had already been
opened. The- brine is carried in buckets to the ev.iporaling pans, which are of iron, about llvc^
feet long, two feet broad, and lli inches deep, placed on rough stones so ari-anged as to form
the sides of a rude fnrmicc below the kettle--. The salt is removed by wooden shovels from the
[)ans as fast as it accuuuilate.s, and is stored I'cu' traiisuil-sion to Hcd Uiver without furtl.er pmid-
catioll. From each pan ahout t«o liushcls of salt (Ml e.n average can be procured daily duiing the
long days of sununer. Wood for fuel is chi-e at band, and of brine an nnliunted cinantily could
doubtless be proeuri'd by boring. \Vheii a well doc s m)t yield brine freely enough, anolher is dug
near to it : uoiu' of them however arc uiore than (ive or six h'ct deep, and no atlempl at boring or
deep-sinking has been u:ade ; the supply of biine being sullieiently aluindant for all present piiri.oses.
No rock exiMisines are I'onnd at or near the springs. 'I'he soil in which the wells are dug i- a stiiV
yellow clay, very retentive, and holding drift boidders <if linu steme, with a fi w of the lum-leis-ilifercuis
rocks. I'roin the general as|icct of the coinitry there can lie little doubt that boring woidd bring
i\u abiitidaiu'c of brine to tlie Burface. Large are.is of sa-called salt ground, llat is of ground
absolutely barren and often covered with elllcucseeut salts, are phuiitully clistiibnttd ove r the
country bordering Winiiipc^gosis Lake; and the existence of various brine springs is well knouu to

'26

UEPOHTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

liidiiiiis and linlf-lji'ecds rrom Swiiii Ilivor to beyond tlio Aj^sinnilinliii;, ii distance cxcrcdinj,' two
liundri'd and (iltv n\di'3 in an air line. At si'voial places salt iui" been and is now nmnnl'actnred, or
in known to occur as a lliick criift on liie i^roinid, nortli and sonlli of tlie salt i^prinns jnsl described.
Thi'!-:e aie, the Sdt Springs ol S»v,in River, anil of Duck itiver at the foot of Duck Mountain j tlie
s|iriii.ta at Salt point, Winnipego-sis Lake; at Crane Itiver, Manitobiili I.aki', and at the Scratching
lliver, sotith of the A>simiiboine. It will be bhowii in my general Report that the salt-bearing
rockrt probably extend from near the Saskatchewan to beyond the UUli parallel in a general
iKirtb and smith direction, and it is extremely probable that with boring, brine conhl b(,' found
in work.ible (piantities over a very extensive area of country in the direction indicated above.

I.eavni" the Salt Springs we ascended Moss River, and alter some delay, owing to ilie shallow-
ni'ss of llie water aiul the occuireiice of rapids involving portages, wo reached Daiipldn Lake.
The el( vation ol this extensive sheet of water above the sea level is about seven liunilred I'let. Iln
length may reach twenty-one miles but ilH breadth does not exceed twelve. It reci'ives ;H'veral
triliut.u ies' which ri>e in the Duck or in the Riding Mountain, none of them capable of receiving a
Irciulitei's boat lor more than seven miles from the Lake. To the west of Dauphin Lake lies tlio
imposing range of the Riding Mountain, the nearest point of its sinninit being about seventeen miles
distant from the shore of the lake.

Nortli-easl of Dauphin Lake is the Duck Mountain, a high range of tabtc-laml similar in its
exti'irial aspict to the Riding Mountain. From the imposing appearance which the Riding
^lountidri presents I'rom Dauphin Lake, ami the singular relation it bears to the level niarshy pi, on
fiom wliieii it rises, 1 tlionght it would be highly advisable, if possible, to reach the snnnuit.
."Several inlliciilties were urged by the Indians we met against the ascent, chiefly on account of the
s»ampv and boggy character of the level coimtry at its foot. 'I'luv slalid that no dilliculiy wiuild
be lonnd in passing through the valley between the Riding Alonntaiu ami Duck Mountain by an
IndiaTi pitching track. It appeared, however, important that an ascent should be madi' in as direct
a line as po-sible fr<uu Uanpliui Lake. I:, the neartst aiul highest point; and with this object I set
out with Mr. I'lemiug, fiuu' men, and an '.jdi.aii, on the Hth October. The stiiteniint of the Indians
respecting the existciu'i' of formiilable swamps anil bogs was (|uiti' trui'. and il was witli some ilitlii iilty
we "ot tlirougli lliem. On the evening of the first day we ciicam[icd at the loot of the mountain,
havmi; accomplished a di-tance of twelve ami a half miles In the allernoon of the second dav we
reached the summit. The latter part of the ascent w.is vciy sleep, through a forest containing very
fine while -prnce. aspcii, poplar, and liircb. The Riding Mount. lin at ils ea>leiii exposure forms the
alirupt temiination of a scries of elevaleil table lauds which li-e one abcive another IVnm the seuih and
west liv ili-tiiiel ste[is, coinmenciiig williio 10 liiihs of the .\s.-iiiuiboiiic : its bre.idlh i> ciui>ri|iiiiilly
about III miles; its altitiid. above Lake Dauphin fully excenls I .OilO feet, which makes it nearly
1,7111) leel above the sea. The whole of its rise abovi' Dauphin Lake is eiiibraccd w ilhiu five and
a half miles, but its greatest rise is included within a mile and a half. The cistern cscarpmciit of
the Ridim; Moiinlain bears the aspect of an ancient -ea coast, once abrupt, afterw.iriU by atiiio>pherie
Inllueiiees rounded, abraded, arid sloped. The last rise is very steeji. showing a dilf bank of drift
clav with liiailders, about il.'ilt feet high, termiiialing in a sharp well delined margin at its aumniit,
from wbii'h the country slopes very gently westward.

Oiilv one rock expo-iire w.is met with during the ascent: this I'cciirriil at an elcvarupu of about
1(10 to tidO li'et above Dauphin Lake, and I wa- at once enabled to identify the furiualion w ili its
extension on the Little .Soiiris, the .\ssiiiniboiiie below Fori Lliici', and tiie (^aWppellc lU' (ailing
River. It belongs to the Cretaceous group, ai:d, by its prc-ence on the Riding ^I<>lmlain. settles
the i|nestioii of tlie occurrence of coal of Carboniferous aL;e between th.s range and the .-oiith liraiich
of the Sa-kauhiw.in.

The n suit oblained by the ascent of the Riding Moiinlain has bini of great intcresl in a geological
Jioint of view, since it has uiiha-ked, in a grc.it nieasiire, the ge.iiogy ol this region of' <'ounlry. Niieb
licild eiiiinriices as the Riding and Duck Moiinlain-, upreariiig llieir cistern fl.inks lo an alliliide
exciediiig l.tlOO feet above the surrounding coiiiiliy. iialurally gave rise to ui:iny ciinjeclnres iis to
tlii'ir origin and eoiiipn-itron. They are probably nnihiiig iiiore than the remains of vast cretaceims
and tertiary table laiid~. sireteliing IVnm the Saskatchc«an Valley lo the L.iiireiitide .Moiiulains,
wliieh have esiaped deiiud.ilion : and the nnifoim dip of the strata, wherever seen, a|ipe.iis to show
that no distiiibance has taken ]ilaee since the Devonian period

riie iMi-esi en the suniinil of the Riding .Moiinlain i- vciy line, viiidic.iijujr the sull and climate of
Riipeit'> Land fioui the Srticping delr.uiioii- which have been urged agiiiii-t them. I beg to subjoin
the cireunilerence, live feet fr.iiii the ground, I'f a few trees wiiliin .'lO yards of our camp on the
Riding .Mountain; — .\.s[ieit, 4ft. in., 4 fl 1 in., :) ft. !l in., 5 ft.; white spruce, 7 it, .'i in.,
."> ft. (i in., (i fl. (i ill., (i f'l, ; birch, Ii ft. <> in,, -i ft. : poplar, 4 ft, !• in., 4 ft, (! in. These trees represent,
as far as observations |iermilted, the general character of ihe forest on the sliniinit plateau ol the
Rilling Mountain.

During the night of our encampment a snow storm came on, and in the morning six inches of
siiiiw wai iicil Hi to hasten to lower and more genial regions. We accomplished the relurii to the
boat on Daiipliin Lake on the afternoon of the fourth day; but I regret to say that the constant
wading through ice-i old water lor many hours together, in crossing the swamps, disabled two of ilie
men, who sullered much [laiii in the head and limbs, until partially relieved by bleeding, vomiting,
and w,irm applications,

'I'lie chiiraeler of the region between Manltobah Lake and the Riding Mounliiin ninaiiied to be
asci 1 tained, in order to complete a general outline of a lo[iogr;iphieal sketch ol tin- country. W ilh
some dilliculiy I prevailed upon an Indian to guide me from Dauphin Lake, in as straight a line as
possible, to the II. 15. Co,'s jiosl on Lake .Maniiobah, a distance of"'' miles from our camp. 1 theu

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

placed the bont in clinrgo of Mr. I'li'min;;, instriictinfr him to meet mo nt tlie Mniiitohaii jiont iih i-cioii
08 possible. Witii n hiilt'-brecd, luid an Iiuiina ns piiiile, I proceeded aeroBs tlie coinitry, Coi timiiicly
without knowing its ciiaracter iielbiehand, or I ^honhl Hcarcely have ventured on such u liitigiiinj;
journey at so late a season of ihc year. I'or tliirly miK's we liad to wade tliroiijfh niai»hcs and boi;ti,
Beparaled by low riilnes ; in liiet the distance named may bo said to be made tip of maish, l)o;r, rid;{e,
marsh, boff, riilgc, in most wearisome Hiiccession. We liad horses to carry our provisions and bedtlin;^,
but till' lioffrt were so bad that, in order to jjet tlic liorses lhrouj{h them, we were Compelled to earry
the load ourselves. A thin crnst ol ice, a quarter of an inch thick, was formed over tlieir snrliice tlie
ni<;hl aller our start, whieli aihled in no slight degree to the fatigue of tlie jouiney. Upon our arrival
at the post 1 was very hospitably received by .Mr. iMcKeiizic, the genth'mnn in charge.

The greater part of the country -lying between Manitobali Lake and JJauphin l.ake, l)etwien
Dauphin Lake and the Hiding Mountain, and between the southern j)art of Wiiniipego-sis L:ike
and the Duck Mountain, may he (Minsidered as having recently emerged from die furmer cMen-
sionoftlie lakes fir>l II. imed. Ibis emergence has re<.uJtecl probably Irom the lowering of waiers
of the hikes by drainage, and not by a rising of the l.md. The Little .Sii..k:itclic«an is not
the only outlet Iroiii .Maiiitnb.di Lake inlo Lake VViniiipeg; and belori> llnse ouileis were
erodrd to their present depth, the waters in Lakes Daiiphin and Manitobali were evidently
about 10 or I.") feet aliove their present level. This is shown by the loHc-t btacli round Lake
Dauphin, which, on the west side, is weH^]ires(rve<l, about seven miles di>tniit frum the present
shores, lietween Dauphin Lake and Lake .^Llllitobah, the ancient coast of the latter, for a Imig
period of time, is about 'JO miles due west from ilie II. 1(. Co.'s post, and it follows the shores of the
lake until lo.st in the fieneral rise of the ]iiaiiie mar White .Mild liiver. I (ind the impres-ion
privailini; among Indians and half-liri'eds familiar with the general oiiiline of this region of couiiiry,
tliiit the lakes are fa^l lowering their level, and although they iijjree in the jiopiilar erior of siippns ng
lierc. as elsewlieie. that there is a rii.e and fall every seven yi'ars, yet the fall is lonsiiiered lo
be greater than the rise. If the drainage of niiiny thciusaiid s(piiire inile.s of swamp and marsh In tins
jiait cil'ilic iiinolry >li(iiild ever heeoiiie a (pie-lioii of n.ilioiial interest, I know of no eiiterpri/.e of ihe
kind which could be exeeulecl with so little cost of lime or labour, and promise at the same line'
such wide spread heiK li( ial resiilLs.

('omnuneing about L) or "JO miles south ot my track, as shown on the map which iicoompanieH this
report, the couiitiy is rcpiiseiited to be dry, and lo cont.iin large areas of land fit lor a;.;rieiilliiral
pnrpo-e-. This .-taieuieiit, received tVoin pcisons familiar with its general character, is partly coii-
lirined by llie ob-ervatioiis we "ere able to make when on White Mud llivei-, in September. Our
coor>e will he seen <ui the map wliiih aec(au|i:inie(i the last report I had the honour to adilri ss to yil.

KroMi the I7lli to the 'J>lli CKtolier, while awailiiii; .Mr. I'leiiiing's arrival, 1 was emphnid in
e.xaiiiiuiiii; llie coniitry in the iiei<;lil)iiurlio(id of the .Manilobidi pest, and as fir as .Maiiitoliah Llniiil,
from which the lake lakes its iiiime I spent four days on this i>land, which has a('i|iiiii'd celeliiily
from the ^upei-tiliou~ belief ot the Indians, ilial it is the abode of a kind of • Munitou ' or furies.
Jjiim-toiie IS here ixposiil in clilf-. !.'> fict high, on the norili side ; it contains liut few lo-siN. is
cxlreinc'lv hard and |iiiMlme», " hen struck with a baiiimer, a dislinel ring, so that when the waves
biat on the si, ore, and -.trike on tlie -liiiigli' at the base nf the diil', a loud musical sound, not unlike
the ringing of a laige nuiuher of (listanl eliuieh liell>, is pioduced. Limestone, of a very eiiiii|iact
and line gi.iimil de-cnplion, occurs in ma>»ive layers n h'W feel from the u'ronud ; many simill pieces,
well ailapteil lor lilhogiaphic |iiirpi)ses. c;iii be pvueured. but I fear, in an econoinic point of view, llie
value of llie lock as a Minree of litliograpliic >toiie. in hoi^e >lali'-, is iiicoiisider.ib:e, on aeeoniil of
the occurrence of the liiinis of slielU which have been replaced by crystalline carbonale of lime, of a
Boller desci ipt.oii than the matrix.

I'liim Maniloliali post »<■ proceeded by the east coast of Lake Mnilitobah lo Oak I'oiiil, where wc
cMlianged ciur boat lor horses and cuts, anil started for Ked Kiver. rid .Slioal Lake, where we
arrived on the ;i|s| October.

Oil the l(S|li Deceinbir Mr. Dickin-oii j-cl out to explore the connliy between the .Xssinniboiiie
and the 4!>lli parallel, in accordance wiih iiistrnctions. of ivhicha copy i^ herewith llan^mitted I heg
to refer yon to Mr. DickiiisiiMs nport liir an aceoimt of the re>nlls of his exploration. The exami-
nation of the coiinliy east of Kid Kiver was undertaken with a view lo place ymi in posse.-sion ol r.
gumnier reconnaissanie of thai iinpoitanl districi ; Mr. Dawson's exploration having been made
during the wiiiler months, when the sHiiuips and bogs wi'ie frozen.

The map which aceompanies this re])orl is based upon Thompson's map, with such alterations as
the time at our disposal enables u« lo make. It is only intended lo illuslrate, for the present, the
general leatmes of the country, as well a> lo --how our several tracts and the area Uaversed 11. e
dotted red line indicalis ihe general direcliiiii of the tracks followed ; but the traverses made iVinii
lime to lime are not rcpre.-ented ; these, willi the soiindings^ — ( upwards of ."l.")!! by the lead J — are
necessarily reservi'd for the (ieneral Keport, and its accompanying maps and charts.

Mr. I lime occiiiiied the period of his slay on Ked liiver in executing a number of ]iliotogiaplis of
sceniry, elinrehes. buildings, Indians, ,Vc., which will form an interesting collection.

I am glail lo be able lo stale, that during this last cxplornlion, as in the summer cxjiedilion to the
south branch of the .Saskatchewan, no accident or untoward event of any description has oecinreil
to interfere with onr progress or lessen its results.

Ill inspectiiig ihe accoinpauying inn|), I beg to refer you to the one which accompanies the re|iort
dated Sepleinber lOtli, from which the connexion between the two explorations will be apparent.

Hon. r. .1. .1. Lor.iiiirer, M.IM'., I h„ve, &c.

rrovin.ial .Secielary, (Signed) IlKNIO' Y. HIM).

&c. M;c. Jkc.

D 2

HKl'OirrS OF TUK ASSIXNinOINK AND

. 1
i< I

Dkaii ISiit, Hcd Hivi-r Sclllonu'iil, Sopti'iiibpr K!, IH.")8.

Oni: of llio iillciri'il (liiiwl)iick-i to tilt' Hcttli'iiii'iit of tlir valley iil' Itcil llivi'i- anil tin- Ai<siniii-
hoiiiu, is llic sciircily nf timhri' lit I'cii' luiililiiiij iiiiriiii.''i'-i. ^'im will I'l'iiiciuhcr tliiit diirinj; ouf
joiinicy lip the Assiiiiiilioiiu', in Jiiiii' lii>t, we IrpqiUMitly ciiw iiii ixii iiuivi' linvst, stii'tfliiiii; I'or iiiniiy
iiiil('.< in a M)ntlirrly direction, on llic rit^lit or ^ioutll Imnk of the river. It ia very ilesinvble timt lli'o
lialnre and extent ol' tlie forest xlioidd be detirinined, and tlie eliaraclir of tlie tiinbor coniposinj,' it
a^eei taiiu'tl. As mxhi, tberclore, ns you eaii roniplete your preparation.-!, I Wdiilil wisli yon to doler-
inine llie limits or boundaries of the fore-t referred lo, anil by makinj; fre(pient traverses or intir-
soelion.-, a-cerlnin llie jjeneral cliaraeter of il^ timber.

Art far iXi is (•oll^i^lent with the .safety of your p.irty, yon >vill also examine the eouiilry belween
the A-siiiiiil)oiiie Hiver and the 4!»th par.dlel, Hent ol Ited Kiver, and if time permits, the uonntry
east of Hed Uiver, and between (itrnian I .'ek and the 4!>tli parallel,

•las. A. Diekinsoii. Ks(| , I am, \e.

&e. ile. t^e. (SiS"f<') H. V. lllNl).

No. VII. — Tin: CoiMiiY lv\si .wn Wi sr ov riii; Urn llivr.a, Xoiirii of iiir; lOrii l*.\ini,i,i;i,.

J)i:.\ii Sill, lied Kiver Settlement, N'ovMiiber "J, iM.iS.

In aecordanee «idi your letter of instriielions, dated .September Kith, 1 proceeded with my
])arty, on the iMlh, to e.vainiiu' those various portions of ilio coiuiliy therein .-peedied.

As llie country east of Ui'il lliv.r — e.Melldinir to the Lake ol tlie Woods is (piite Ulikliowii, except
for a i'vv, miles back from the river, lo any hut to lliose Indians who have there their liiintinjr grounds,
I was anxious lo procure one of them as a guide. Jlavinuj Micciiiled in doin;; so after some lilllo
delay. 1 was oblij;cd loexniuiue lliis part ol tlie coiinlry (irst, as the Indian jjiiiilc was iihout to leave
the selllemeiit in a lew (hiy> fur his winter (piartcrs, and if 1 hud not .'Pcurcd his services imniedialely,
would have tailed in iIoiiil; so afterwarils.

C'onsiilcriiii; llial one of the ohjeels of this exploration should be that ofseeiiiLj where a.iiinimer i<i(nl
could be mo t e.isily made from Ke(l liivertotlie Lake ot the Weeds, that beiii}; now a 8iihje<t of frreat
interest ainoiij; the si tilers, who wereaboni 'indinu' a jiarly out lor thai special pmiiose, I thoii(,rhl it
advisihle (iisl to c;o aloii^ the slraiLiht picket line made by Mr. Dawson la?t winter, in whieli direition,
1 uiideralaiid. he Hporls lliat a mad can be maile for some miles, in order that 1 ini}:lil be able to
iiislitiile a eumparisoii betwei u this and any other portion of the adjacent country lliron^di which
the Indian might guide me.

'llie (irsi day 1 wn.s aiile only to go about II miles — two-thirds of tlii^ dislaiice at least being through
niar-h and wit prairie.

'llie general course was along the pickel-line. iVom which 1 win obliged to diverge IVciiuently—
soiiulinies a mile or more, but always kit ping il in view — in order to avoid, when pos>iblc. the wide
marshes linnngh which it |i.'isse3. 'i'iie next (lay 1 eoutiiiued in the same diiiction, and having ri'aehed
a Jioint oppo.-ile the '2:'.d inile-po-l, on the picket-line, I could go no I'nrllier, being' slopped by a
swamp or (piai,'mire. Impa-sable for hor.-es. or i veil men. exieiidiiig in fruiit liir many miles, and on
botli >idis as fir as the eye could icicli. '1 bough lakiiigadvaiilage of all tin- dry placis within reach,
10 I'liles of the coui>e I look lay thioiigh mar~li and wel laiiil, and livi' miles at ha^t throngh swamp.
There are a few small clumps ot yiaiiig aspi ns along the line, and low willows in some of the niiirslies;
bul fir away towards llie iiorih iii.iy be seen some clumps of larger tree.s.

'l"lie land is, liir the most pari, a rich loam, wiili a snb-suil of sandy clay ; but the dillicully, or
rather llie iiii|ii)-sihility of draining the numerous swamps and marshes, and the want of limber,
1 ender this tract of eoiiniry unlit lor settlement ; and for the >aiiie reasons, the dilKcnlly of coiislrucling
a suit ihle road ihidugh it would be very considerable, and the eNpen^e.s enormous.

.luilgiiig, then, thill I had .Svcn enmigli of tins part of the coaiiliy for my |inrposes, I reliiiced my
.steps to the selthiiieiit; Iroin which 1 eel out again, under the guidance of the Indian, who promixil
lo conduct me by the only thy palli towards the Lake of the Wu.itln, as far as the bonnilary of his
biiiilie.g grounds.

On the morning of the 'JJld, 1 proceeded alone the fcoutli siile of '• la Itivii'it' .Seine,'' or (ierinan
Creek, which Mow.-, into the Ked Itivi r a lillh- below its Jiinetioii willi the As.-inniboine. • 'I'liere are

farm houses and a g I road along il for a tli>taiice of live miles, when the Indian's track then

begins, which keeps close to the v.uley ( I' the Creek for eight mile-, belwtfu il aiitl the mar?li, which
is shown on the map.

'I'lil.s dry space vaiiis from half a mile to a i)iiarter mile wide, crt)».~til by two small sliiggli-^h creeks,
which if widened and ilee|ieiie(l wcnihl ell'tctiially dmiii llie marsh, 'i'liere is plenty of gocid limb«-r
along ihe valley, con-isling of poplar-, elm, and black a-li, with small oaks. Leaving ihelierman
Creek here (ill tair hl'l, Wf wi'iu along a low ridge about ont^ loot above the level of iht! marsh, and
varying in w idtli frtiin ."lO to MO yards ; il run-- in a soiilli-easterly tlireetiou for about three miles,
ami tlieii widens out on i\u'. left as far a.o I coiiltt .-ee, and on llie rlulit to half a mile. At this point
we Were about ihrce niilt's from Cieiiiian Creek, which we lose sight of now for isoine time. Con-
tinuing in the s.ime direction for three miles nioie, through heaiitifid rich grass, with cliiin|)s of aspena
on the left and high willows on the riglil, we came lo a creek cailetl Oak Creek, wliieli i.s iibouL two
t;liaiii-^ wide, bul -o slill and sluggi-h ihat il raiher rtsciubles a Imig lake. Our course then lay along
it iieail, due t a-.t fta' iwti anil a half miles, whtn the creek then turns to the south. 'l'lii,s woiihl be
an admirable place fur a selilenunl, the hind being as rich as any in tlit- whole coiinlry, and there
being a large sii[iply of oak, averaging I fo.it <> inches in diameter, and [loplar.-v suitable for fencing.

Oil llie soiilli silk- of Oak Creek the open praiiiestn tclies away to the horizon, the greater part of
tliat which was wiiliin view being dry, there bi.ing only u few patches of wet hiiul. Leaving Oak Creek

SASKATCIIKWAN KXPLORIN(} KXPEDITION.

wv went lliioiijtli a tomilry of tlili clmriu'tor for nhoiit iiiiio inllos in ii Hi)iilli-i'ft--lcrly (liicfllon, our
truck vviiidiii^, liowi'vcr, ii lltllo to avoid tlii' wfi jiiacc.'', a lew of wliicli wc liail to croj.t; none of llicni,
howi'vci', lii'in).; more tliini nevon oi" cij^lit cliiiins wide, and la^y ol croasiii{{. 'J licit! arc niiiiicroiis
(.■liMnpa III' siiinli aspens and willows in evi ry lliiictinn We llicn iii'dcecded nearly due ca»t lor aliollt
aeven niileti, (icriniin Cicck being IVuni oiiu and u liall to two miles iiii llie north, a lieantil'iil and rich
prairie iyiti); lielwecn ns and it, and nn the Honlh one mile distant riiiH a well-wooiied riih'i', parallel
with (lur uniirso ; then liuiiin;^ to the south-east we wimnd rmnid niimenms liirgu ele ifaspeii

from live to ;)(l leet hi'.;li, and willows for hoviii miles, when we c.inie to a risinj; groun. densely
eiiveied with younj; nspeii and lalleii limlier that it w.is impossible for ciirts to go further; we there-
fore hit tliem here and mule pai.'ks of a few tilings for the hor.-es to cany. Mere the land becomes
of a ligliler description, being of a'light sandy and ihiy lonm. 'I'lie timber lins been all hnrnt, the
gionnil w.iM so ihieldy strewed with the fallen loi;< that it was willi miieli dillicnlty the hor-es could
Iravi'l. Two miles fiirllier on we came to the banks of (leiinan (reek; its valley here is from IT) to
'JO chains wide, and abont -to feel deep: it is lull of cNcellent tiiiibcr, elm, oak, poplar, and l)laek
ash, all large enough for building purposes. The creek, which is hire very rapiil, is :]i) feet wide and
alioiit I fiicit (i inches deep. We follow its cnnr,-e now for '.'" miles, neve r being more than half a mile
away from it. 'i'lie cnmitry through wlii<'h we p:is>ed is for the iiinst part covered with trees of varions
kinds, growing in large einmps, liaNiiin poplar, aspen, laniaiaik, biiUim sprnce, <cdar, and oak. 'I'lie
wlioh' coimlry has been burnt soiiu' years ago ; llie remain ; ol llie limlier everywiun' to be foinid
indicate that there was once a vast forest of large ti'ei-.

Till' Indian unide now said he had emne to llie bonndaiy of lii> own eonntry anil could not biing
me fnrllier: and though I tried lo induce him by every mc.ins, he remained lirm to his re.-olnlion,
lie was unwilling for somi' lime even lo give me a descriplion of the eoiinlry beyond; but linally I
procured from bim the following aeeonnl : —

At half a (lay's journey on snow shoes, or a distance of l."i miles I'rom where we were, there is a
moinilain or ridge thickly covered with trees stretching towards ihe Lake of the Woods. A part of
this inli'iveiiiiig space is a swamp in which grow liimaraek, cedar, iniil spruce; ihe remainder is drv
grounil covered w ilh small nspciis iind willow^. Passing along the " moniitnin you come to a niarsii
wliieli extends lo llie '• Lake of llie Woods ;" but through it tlicle llow.s a liver, lip which largo
canoes could coiiu' within the hearing of a gun-shot, c.i- about iwii miles from the monnlain. 'llie
entire I'liglh of lliew;iy 1 had coiir' w.is 70 miles ; Ci') miles at le ist of this dislaiice biiiig (it for
settlement, and thronghoiit the whole of it a road eoidd be made without the slightest dilKcnlty and
at liltle co-t. If lime and means had permille.l, 1 would have pn-lied ihliiiigh lo llii! lake, but under
the ciieiimstancea I con-iilered it bclier not lo alleiupt il.

From the desciiptioii given by llie Indians of the coimlry. and which I lliink may be relied on as
correct, I am of the opiiiu>i\ that a ro.id can lie easily made lliroiii^h il.

I reliiriied by Ihe .siine track as I came by liir •-onie dislaiice, when I ciossed (ierniaii Creik, at a
place aboni !)."> milts I'nan its moii h, and llien conliinied along Ihe north side of it.

At this crossing place iheie are Iwo or tlnee liou-es, the eommi iieemeiit td a settlement H liich ia
likely lo be c|i|ickly cMendeil.

(Jii tlie Isi of Dclolicr I set init M'jaiii lo examine the counliy belwecii llie ,\ssinnibt)iiie and tho
•lOtli parallel ; and more parlicnl.uly the forot which was sai I to extend for mi many miles to the
sonlh from ihe river al I'raiiie I'ortago.

I'rociidiiig along the roatl lo Si. I'aul, I lurnul oil' I'rom il where il eiosscs '• l,a Hiviire .Sali$ '' (or
Slinking Uivii), and went by the Imiileis' ir.ick on the soiilli side of the river, along which it goes
for .'10 miles, i iilling across the large bends of the valley, which is very winiliiig, and lliroiigh which
the river me.tiuler^ in a remarkable manner.

'Ihe coiinliy lying hehveeii il antl the .\.-sinuiboiiie is very miirsh\, ami is covered with willows and
cliim|is of sMiall aspi n. In the valley and along bolli sides grow oak and elm and some line ash,
many trcis two feet in diameter — they ixlend the whole way lip the river. On the south side there
is a pr.iirie apparently as level and bonnille.-s as ihe ocean ; the grass tni il is most beautiful and
luxuriant, iiitlicaling tlu' rit liness of ihe soil.

riie valley is .ibont -JO cbnins wide and 10 feel deep; there are many salt springs in it, which
make the water in ihe river ipiite braekisli, from which it tit rivis the name. 'Ihe river higher up
opens oiil into small l.ikt >, and rises I'rom a m ir-li which is very eMensive. The tiMck here joins the
liuntei's' Hack I'rtmi the NVIiile liorse I'iain; il linns in the south, in which tliretlion il goes for about
I'J miles «hene • imniiig nearly due -oulli for l'> miles, ii erossis •• I.a Itiviere ties 1-les de Hois," a
river I'l leel witle ami two deep, llowiiig inio llie ."^eralcli'iig Uiver. 'i'his [lorlitai of tho country is
all a level prairie, the greattr [rirt of it being »it and marshy, except near this river, where it is
(|uite thy for live miles ; ihe land is a rich sandy loam, yielding mo>l luxuriant grass. On holli sides
of the river lliere i-i a skirling of In es, ehii lly oak, averaging I fl din. ill 'iiamclcr.

'Ihe hiilhdo-hiinters, when they have cros.-ed this little river, begin to keep a ^liarp look-out for ihe
Sioux, and lo take their usual precaniions.

The track eimtinning in the same direction crossi s a prairie "JO miles wide.

'I his priiirie is of light sandy soil, witli clumps ol' aspen ami willows growing here and lliere; it is
interseeletl by many small valleys, in all of which, wiili one exception, llie ereek> llial rirnied ilieni
me now tirietl up. The valley of "J.a h'ivit'iv Tiihac " is seven cliains wide ami 'JO feel tleep ; there
was but very lillle water at lliis time in the eiei k, but in spring time there is a lapitl llow.

The prairie on the south ami west is boiimleil by what is generally callt tl llie '• I'einbina Monnlain,"
which is rather a aeries of steps rising up from the pr.iirie below to one iibove. There are three steps
from "JO lo •J.'i feet high, together with a graiUial aaeenl for two milts; the whole of ii is ihieklv
strewn wilh boulders of gr.inite. 1 lii.s '■ ^loimlain," which consists of clav, gravel, autl saiul. niiis

U 3

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

h i

in a uoiith-eniiterly iliri'ction, from n litllo atxnf IViiiriu I'oriHUi- to Pi'mbinu. VVhui-r v/c rroMcd
it tlicro is no tliiilur, Ixit on liolli didt'i it in wrll i-ovrrod, piirticiiluily uii ihr houiIi, wUvtv tlu' tici'H
mH'iiii'il \i\rfSf mill good, lli'ii' tlii' I'dri'iil n vaid lo l)cgiii uliiili riNuiu'ii tn ilic A»»imiiliiiiiK', liiit with
till' I'xct'pliiiii III' hciiiu' oak cm tiu' iiioiiiiliiiii, lliirt- U iiii ^iiod tiinlxr, nolhiiig but young nitpi'ii iVoiii
'JO lo .')0 I'li't liijili, ^ni»i:i;{ vi'ry ilox* to^t'tlii'i', liiniiing ii di'iiso tliickcl.

On rii»'liiiif{ till' Biiinniil ol' llic " Mountain,' tin' liaik tuin» to llio wivl a( toih ii prairie railed
" tlic round ]ii'airii','' wliii'li i-. peil'fi'lly l('\vood< of puplaix. Oil lis \M'r<torii limit, williin u few liiiiidred yanlK of the Iraek, lliere
JK a eonical hill nlioul :jlM) I'eet hi|{li, citllnl thi' " ( 'all'fi 'I'eiil ;'' rallier ii remark. ilile lookiii)^ objeet,
rising as it does so abiiiplly lidin out the level plain and alone.

We then erossed an iindnlatin;; prairie, 10 miles »ide, eovered with willows and eliiiiip'. of iispen,
from '.Ml Id to feet hii{li; tlie ni>il i^t a rich sandy loam. 'I'his piirt of the eomilry i-, (|nile denLiiute
of water; tin re me iio ereeks, ,ind the pmnls whii ii are said to be j;eneially full of wiiter "ere now
quite dry ; from I'J o'eloek one day to two o'elock the next, we eoiild find none.

Ilei" eominenres the hilly ilislrii't; it* hi){liest hilU, whieh can he seen so well (Voiii the hanks of
the .\«sinuilioiiie. are ealled the " IJIiie Hills." 'I'lie jjeneral direction ol its eastern boiiialary i»
nearly S.W. l>y N.K. The track now turns towards the north-wesl. The oountry il iiivcrses fur
l-'J miles may be ileserilieci f^eiierally lo be an iindulatini; or rolling prairie, studded with nuineicMis
eonieal and dome-shaped hills, from .')0 to IM feel hi^li, Home eovered wiili willows and iispc ns, and
some (|nile ban . 'I'liey are all eoinposed of siiiid and gravel mixed with .lay, and having on their
Hanks ni.iny granite boiildeiH.

Itiiiining p;ii',ilitl with our Hack lor .some miles is u valley, 10 eliains wide and W feet deep, called
'•La (iiancle ( 'oulcie,' in w hieli ihere in no walcTi and \\r ero.^sed many Hiualler ones, also dry,
loiineetiiig with il.

Here 1 lefl the track, and went in a northerly dircetioii to the thick poplar wciods the ■' I.e (irand
'■ Hois,'" of llie rrench half hue i(>, which seemed kix or hcvcii miles away, but on m riviiii,' the ii^ I
found it to con^i^t cady of large rluinps cil a-pc nii and poplar.s, which at a distance looked like a
dense and ecnilinuon« himhI. as il is i-oniincnily supposed lo be by the hiinalo hunters, '{he tress,
thon^'h high, duly average alxjul nine inclies in diameter.

I made seveial traverses bcrcMlicnil-. and linind that at distances from one to three miles back from
the ojieu prairie, the wood heeinnes densely liiick. (|uile iinpenelrable in many places.

'J'lie trees lire all sniall. iimie greater t!ian mie font in diameK'r; they are of the poplar spceie<i,
with here and there a yonm,' oak or a simai in.iple.

On my relni n to the Ininlcr^' track we pa— ed by a pretty lake ahciut three miles lung and half a
mile broad, siirronndid by a ilcxe mass ol poplars and willows. \Ne came upon the Hack al a point
abiiiil lour miles in the wot ol' where wc liad left il. an. I lullowed ii> windings llirongh the liilU,
still going to the norlh-wi si '1 here are herc> many isolated lulls, as well an c liaiiis ol hills running in
every clireclioli. Tlie low yrouud is generally marshy, through which geiilly llow 8( i eral sniall
creeks, all einiilyiiig ihcinselves iiilo a Mic.iin on our lelt, which we enws seven miles lurtlier cm.

This >lieam is six Ici I w ide ami two feel deep : il llow?, in a valley ."lO teet deep, and alioet l"J , hains
wide. The grouncl heie is mi;eh covered willi gr.mile liiiuhler^ and rra^'ineiits ol il' i'.

Observing iliis bidkeii -hale tliroiii.diont the whole itf ine hilly dislrid lo lie lying a>icint in ivcrv
direclioii on ihe snrlace and I'lieii turned up by ihe hailgers, 1 searclieil on the inll-sides and along
the valleys liir solid rock but could lind noiu\ 1 >nppose it to be, thcreline. bom its ^ilnllarlly in
a|ipeaniiicc. drift b iiin llic> rocks on the l.illle ."souri- and other place-, towards tlic' iioilli where it
vsas I'diind to e\i-l. The eoniilry now beccanes more hilly than belcnc. and i- ci]m|)!elcly eovi>recl
with low willdw>: ciaks. and popliirs. single' and in elninp.-, grow pleiitilVelly on all sides. 'J'here are
several small lakes, on some of wliieli wcri! large (locks ol' while swan-. Th.' main woods on the
right are here from five to -ix inile.s cli»tanl. This whole reyiiMi was once eipon a lime an extensive
fore.-t of oak, lc)r evervwhcre ihc' remains of them are lo be foiind. On the hit there are large
clumps of lialsaiu poplar, I'drniing for several miles almost a conlinnous lenesi. We ero-sed another
of those valleys here so nnineidiis, ealled " I.e (irand t'ouh' de la (irosse Unite, deriving ils name
I'roin a large eonieal hill about '.'OO feel high. The valley varies in widih Iroin 'JO to MO chains,
ami in ahoiit Wt feel deep, but apjiearing much deeper in many iilaces by reason of the liilU
adjoining it.

The sides ;we very pveoipilions and the bottoiii is ipiile level and all covcrcnl with bcaiilifnl graos ;
there is no creek llowing threnigli il, or even the appearance of any recent one. Two miles up in it
toward the north there is a :-inall lake iiiid another vallev branching olf Irom it, which we c'lOj-ed
lejiir miles fnrlhor on: in it there is a small creek ."(ix feet wide, and one Tool six inches deep. The
track liirniiig to the iinrtli soon comes close to " Lc (irand Conic! de la (irosse Ibitte," and (Minliniies
along il lor nine miles. The scenery is now very wild and beaillilnl ; the valley, ihe bolloin of whieh
is ISO I'eet below the general level uf the country, cuts through ranges of liills, many oliliein l."»Oleet
high, and winds rouiiil the bases cdDlhers, some bare and riiKueil and some covercel wilh poplarK.
Tliere arc- many lakes ol various sizes, which add considerably to the |)iclurescpie beauty of this
))eciiliar region, the liivonrile haunt of the moose and red deer. Travelliim on for (ive miies mcu'e
we reach the top of a hill, when suddenly buisls on our view a vast nndnlating ])raiiie stretching
away to the Assinnibuine and Little Souri.s. The track, which liad been vei • faint lor some time,
here becaine (]uite invisible. It was thonghl advi«al)le therefore to return to where another cnie had
been seen branching olf, some six or seven miles back. Having regained il we- followed it for 18 miles,
still among the " HIne Hills," erossiiig the low ndges and windings ihroiigh the valleys helwcen the
high hills, seveial of them .'!i)0 feet high, and around us were many pretty lakes: we tlieii came upon
the open prairie

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITJOK, 9

From {\\U ncTin* to iho AKainnibnno \n III inilci. The iirah'ic i* lliickly iiiroit wcr with loo
williiwx, iiii'l li ■•w;iiu|iy in iiiiiny iiIiicch; tlirrc lui' liiit ii lew ('.Iiiiii(im oI' yniiiig nii|M'i •<• relieve it
biriik mill (Irnin iihiiccI.

'I til' viilli y III' till' AHuiimilmiiii' wlicn- we (M'uhhciI it, 40 inili'it nbovi' Priiiiiu I'ui'tiiKO, in iiboiit om.'
mill' anil a i|iiarlcr wiilc; its '■Idc-i ai-r iniirli lirokcn anil liiilt'iilcil,

'I'lii' |iii|ilarA ami iiak<, nlwliii-li it is riill. arc nil yiiiiii^, none cxct'i'ilni;; iti tVct in hci^lit, iiiiil tiiero
nrc nil iii'in nl' any kinil alniii; I'illier hIiIc lor many inilt'r<, 'llu* river is nt lliis point II) eliain» wide
nnil ibrei' lent deep, ami lia'< a liard, gravelly Imttnni, ^ii lliat »e forded it very easily. On llie north
mIiIi' (if till' river are llie Sand IlilU. lliroiiu'li uliidi we pa<iHed latt June. 'Hie lore^t. wlioie nontlierii
liinil" [ liavu U'<ei'rlaine(l, extends 'JO inileH aliova I'rairu' I'ort.i^e. alonj; the river, where it then dies
ikuay. I reiiiaini'il at I'rairie I'nnage three dayn. inakinf{ explorations of the forest, and ohtaillinu;
ilihii iiiatiiiii eiiiu'eriiin<{ it IVoiii siiiiie people who were well acipiaiiltcd with it. I found that the
({nod litnlier grows iniroly aliin!{ the river, in width from half a iiiile to tiiree miles: lieiond that the
Wood i'< exactly what it is on the south side. Ileru an<l there among the young poplai'K are solitary
Oiks at long intervals, many of them two leet in diameter, tliu reinimnlH ilouhtlc^.s of a line forest.
.\liHiil ( i;ilit iiiilis liaek from the river there is a large eliinip of liaUani sprin'e, lint wliiih are all
kiimII. I he following is a list of the ddlereiit trees and liieir dimensions, wlileh form the band of
good limber along the river: O.ik. '2 ft. in diaiiieler : aspens, '2 I'l. ; halsam poplars, 'J ft. !) in.; elm,
I It. ■') in. ; liasswiiiid, ■_' ft. (i in.; ash (very few), I ft. '1 here iii an uhiindant supply of oakit, ».traigiit
and tall, I It. (i in. in diameter; and of biiUam poplars, '2 ft. On the I'emliina Mount.iin tiiere is
siiiiie guild limber, iiu'luiliiig tamaruek, not fuuiid elsewhere, but which only uveniges, I am told, )) in.
ill diameter.

Vours very truly,
I'roli-Mor II. V. Hind, (tiigiiedj .IAMKS \ DICKINSON.

&c. *ce. Jte

Oil flu- (jt'Ai'i'i'ii.i.K, (T Callinu IlivKU, uiid tiiu UivKiisiD.v of till' WAfKRa of the South
MiiAsi It of till- Saskati iii:wAN down its Vai.i.ky, with a V'ikw to thi- (!o\siitt(Tio\ of ii

SlLXM-HllAV l'().MMIMI..VTtON ffOIll I'olM' ClAKllY, lllil) UlVIUl, to tllf FoOT of tllC UoCKV

M(ii:.MAi\>*.

CON T V. N T S.

Itnlil III iti'ill^li r<>liiiiililii will iiKJiiri' i'iiil;;i'iitii>ii. mill
rii'iili' riiiiiiiii ri'iiil iirlivily ill lliiil Ciplniiy.

'I'lli' VllllrV of till' Sll.'-klltl'lll'WIIII will I lillli' UN I'llli-

;jriiii( iMii'l-riiiilr In Itrit i^li ( 'oliiiiiliiti --.Viiirrii'iiii
tiiliowiii^', iiIkI iH'eiiiiiiii;,' |i> I'mIImw, iIimi riiiili'.
riiiiiii' Mtli'iiliiiii iliii'i'li'il III I. like \Viiiiii|M'^' mill llii'
.NiM'lli I'lrmirli lit' (III- Sji>kiiti'lii'\\ ;iii, ii> a Slriiiii-
I'u.'ii Uiiiili' Oiii' ri'-iill III' till' I'MiiiKliiiii l'!\|iliiriii;,'

l''.\|ir<lllinll l<> llir Siilllll I'lrmii'll nl' llli' S.'l-klllrlll'-

u ;iii,

.S'l'H iMlilltrl'l ll|ili'<l .Slealll-liiilll Ifiillli' 111 lllr fiinl nf
(III' Umky MiiiiiiMiiii-, ill a iliri'i'liiiii nearly iliii'

west 111 (lie lliiw Itiver I'lis I'lulmlile I'liiiiiiiiiiii-

I'litioii, wiiliiiiii iiii|ii'i|iiiieii( mill mils niie liri'iik,
t'i'iiiii any niivi;!iililr pari nf Itril liiver in (lie l{iii'k\
.Muiiiidiiiis.

(Jii'.\|i|ii'lli', iir Calliii;; Hivir Valley- |)e>rri|ilinii nl'

— Illii~ellla(l"' wilh llie Snlllll Itlllliell allil llie
.\.-'illllilinilll'.
Work lei|llileil 111 lie lli'i'nlll|ili>lli'il tii -I'llil (lie Wlllel's
nt' (lie Sntitli Itrmieh 111' tile Sa^kiid'liewati ilnwii
(lie IJii'Apiu'lli' Valley, pa-l full liiiny.

l^iiWlipi'lle l.iikei — Cliiinii'ti'r nt' — Depth — .Vliniinil
ill li'-li.

Ilciw till' !l liiij; iif (lie .V^siiiiiiliiiiiie ami Iteil Hlver

i- In lie avniileil iliiriiig Sprlii;; Ire-liets.

( liaiaeler nf the ('nimiiy ilrnliieil liy the Smith
Iti'aiirh — t 'liiiiale nf the .Sniiih liraiieli.

Ureal iiihaiila^e In lie ileriveil I'lniii llie pi'npnseil
rniile — l)i-(illli'i' sllnrd'lleil KM) mile — -Uiillti' llllill-

(eri'll|ileil I'l I Weil Itivi'l' (n (he l'nii( nl' (lie lincky

Miiiiiilain^.

Sea-nil III' Navi^'iKiiui eMeiiili'il ei^lil (n leii weeks.

I'Miie Kiiniiin;.' I'niiiili'y npeiieil lip — Iti'-l I'lii.. ill (he
lfiii'k\ .Mniiiiliiin- a|ipi'narlii'il — • I )aii:;eiiiiis ami
C'ireuilnii- Niivi^iaiinii nl' l.aki' Winnipeg,' a\nlileil
— (iriiml Kapiil- -iiniiniiiileil — Cnal Kails nser-
enllle.

I'li-lal ('iiiniiiiiiiiealinii alniif; the pi'ii|in-eil rniKe —
('(iilii"' nl' l'n|iiilalinn — 'I'lii' Siiiiih llniiii'li will
lieeniiie (he l'',inl::raiit roiite — .liiipnrliiiii'i' nf the
I'lininiiiiiiiatinii I'lnin [.ake Siiperinr, rii) South
Itraiieh, In llie I'ai'ille.

Slit, Toronto. i'Vljiiiary ;l, 18j9.

I M.NruiiK to submit the following notice of the Qu'Appelle Hiver, in anticipation of a inorij
detailed deM;ripiioii, which will be I'lirni.slied in my Oeueral lU'iiort.

[ have, >V .
The lion. C. .Uleyii, M.IM'., (Si^r„ed) IIKN'IU' V. HIND.

IVovincial .Secrelarv, &c. Sic. &c.

1. The discoveries of gold in liritish Coliimhia have invested with groat interest the facilities for
eouiinunicatiou which exist between the Atlantic and Pucitic (Seaboard, north of the -lOtli parallel.

D 4

3'J

IIKPOIITS or TFir, ASSINNinoFNK AND

(iiilil (III llic I'ac'iltc xliijit' dl' ilio lliii'kv Moiiiiliiiiiii, within Idititli li'iril' "v, will in'iilnilily iiiiluco ii
lui'^v riiii'^ialiiiii III iliat i|imi'l('r, ami •'jifcdily ci'iiilc ^reat ('oiiiiiu'rcliil ari iiy.

'.'. '1 lji' v,illi'_\ III' lilt' Mi'xii-iliiu III in;;' ■ |i aalr I 1111111 llii' Inn lli in I'.n ilir ttri iliM li x iif llii' I'liilcil
NtiiU"< l>y an rxtciiHlvL' iv^iini |>ii'-<oiiliiiK rxiniui'illiii'iv clilllciillir-i in tlir inili.iliiiii nl' a I'liiniiii'i'ci.il
ur t'vrii ('iiiiiii'aiit iiiiili', until tlii' rniiKlriirliiin nl' 11 railwav iciniui'* llic i>1i>i:ii livi. iiiilijir niicniiini in
llii' niii'lli-Hcvilii'ii Sl.i|pi< dl' llii' (niiiii niiil In Caiiaihi has liicn iliricli'ii in |lii> vallry nl' thd Saikal-
clu'wan. ami ihc Iratililliix III ('ni|iliiMMj{ It at a hiik in a ({rrat ilialn nl' Kinniiniiiraliiiii liilwicii (lie
Mi:^M><ip|ii anil St, l.iiwK'iK'i' on iIil' mir liaiul nml llic wcsU'in !iIii|k- nl llic Itncky Moiinlaiii^ nn llit*

Ollll'l'.

i\. I'or llii' Miki' (if till' Millry III llic Saikiili hi'W.ni iilniii' ;;i'i'iit clliiil'i liavr Ih'imi iiimiIc iiinl arc
inakiii;{ in Ciinaila in rsliilili!>li a niininiinicittinn liiiwrrii it iiikI l.aki' Siipi rini, whirli, I'm' ciiiniiii'irial
|)in'|iiiir^, is in I'lIi'Ct llir ".ainc nl lln' Si. I.awi'riicc nr Alliinlii'. 'riici'c I'lliiiis «ill innlMilily ni'iivr li
(licit iin|iilni< now ili.ii till' iliicnvi rii -I dl' Miilil in llnli-li ( 'iiiiiniliia iii'i' (■nnlliinr.l ; wliili' ilic ui'i'il
iiviT wliicli llii' |in'riiiin int'liil is known In In' ilislrilinli il iiiiil. In lin' iiirriiiici' lliiil ili* ■n'cin I'llii'" ill
qiiiiiitily aiillii'ii'iit til crc.iti' a powi iliil I'.icilii' colony, willi gicat ra|iiillly, ii« im lon;{ci' a mailer nl'
tioiibt. '

■I. Uiniiii; till' ii.'i-t siinnm r, when n liirniii^ frnin the Sniiih Itiancli, I iiict M'Vcral |iiii"ii"* nl'
Aiiiiiioan ciiii;;ianti, who Hire |iioci c'liinj; to I'la-cr's llivi i' c/i/' (\iiliiin liiiii>c ami ihc Noiili jliancli
(if the Sa^kiili'licwan. One parlv w:h well rnmi-heil ami ('i|nl|>|ieii liy an iiilliieinial eoin|iany at St.
I'.iiil, wlinse oliiecl> ami |ii'.i,'eiilin;;H hiVc liecn |iiilili--hc(l in |inii|iliiil liinii. Soiii" of the cmifjianls
ni'i' winli rill;; at licil Itivci' Siilli iiu lit, |iiir|ioi<iii;{ early in the >|iriii},' In I'ollow ill tin' ti'.ick of tin'
jaitv I met. (Hill I - ari' miw (ii|; mi/in;; in the norlli-wesli in Sinte-, to jonriiev ti llie " .Mines" hy
the siine runic. It i- ii|i|Mri'nt ihat a slrnii,' ell'ort will he maile In e>l ililish 11 Sinth-w ("<ti in
Kniinr.lllt Lain! Ilmite lo the rncilir, liy the |ieo|ile ol' the norlli-« 1 ^tei n Sl.ile- iil' llie rilioil The
Mi.-toiiii riiiilc i-i too iliHiciill aini h.i/aiiioiu nt jn •eiil, aii<l lh:il liy llie N'oilli lii'.iiuli olilie >,,-l,al
cliewan in the one ailo|ileil.

."). Ill ihe |iids|ieelns dl' the ( '.iiiaili in Nnrlli-ui-l 'i'r.iii-|iorl,iliiiii l'din|iany llie line nl i-te.in eowi-
nnnrualion |ir(i[io»e(l is |lii'diii;li Lake Wiiiiii|ii';; ami the Norlli Hraiieh df the .'■•asli iielieH.ni, Like
\\ iliiii|ie;.' is now |iro|idi'il In he ;;.iiiieillroiii I akc .*sn|Kriol' hy takiii;.; ailvaiila;{e nl' the liiivijjalile
I'Caclit - of w.ilii (III I )o^r I.aKi', .MHio l.aes, llaiiiy I.:ike, U.iiiiy liivei', ami the I like nl' the W iiiiilii,
nitli iiilei'Veniii;^ rnailn ami |H>rta;{es. .\s the coiiiiliy tliioii^ii which this rniite jiiiHses I-, an iiiliii-|iit-
ulile legion, willi lew iirc.i-. Iil lor ciillivatidlt, as lar as the wij^l ^iile nl' the Lake ol' liie Wooil-, ihe
iirojio-ril ciiiiiniiinieiitioii will |iioliahly mil lu open lor r:f|ii(l liaii<ll, wilhoiil iiiiiiiiidU> diill.iy i.s
inciiri'eil. lor a |ieridil ol se\ci,il yeai.-<. I'; lo the il.ite ol' my ilcpai tiiri rrom Iviil IiImt hint year,
no ciiinmiiiiicalion hail hceii i H'l'clcd, in xwwwc //'/»i', hetweeii the si'lilineiils nml llii' Lake of the
Wooils, I'.Nccpt in Cannes, allhdiiyll eviry elllirt w.i't iiiikIc In pii--s llii'dii;;li tl c loriiiiili'ili' lio.;s iinil
Bwaiii|H which iiilorvetic, 'I'lils iniporliint link on the propuscil line of rniile [- sli'l a tiri.i iinuijiiilii
fur a short (lisiance.

(i. The projei tor» ol the lia\ i;^atiiiii of Kill l!i\er lielnw lireakcnriiijje, in I'le .Si iie if Miiini'sot.i,
Innk iiLo III the N'orlii Ih.iiicli 11- (■Hiring ll.e 111. i-l favoiirahh- inc. ins of riaehiiig ti.e fonl of the
Hncky .Moiiiilains. They are cmi-t; iiiinig a nliaimr on Iteil llivi r, ami propii.-e to inniuel, l,y a line
of "tago-, w'iili ('ii)W' Wing anil Si. Paul. Crow Wing is within I'.'O iiiilci nf Lake .Snpirior City,
nml 11 Iravclkil •inniner roail alrenly esisl-. Iietweeii tl.cin. .\> no iinpcdiiilent is kiinwii to exi-l in
the navigaiion of lleil Uiver fir Kle.unerr. nl' ^hallnu ilrall, the ciii-e ol this Hinniner will witmss, no
duiiht, the navigation of ilio llnl Kiver of the Norlli liy sleiiii; and it-, coiiin sloii with Lake Superior
on the one liaiiil, ami the .Mi-.si--ippi on the oilier, liy tiavelhil roads, 'llii-i i'oiim\ion can lie
niaiiitaincil dm iiig the winter inoiiili-, fidiii ( 'row Wing or St. I'aiil. In these piojeit-. so rapidly
approaching loinpletion, the North liiaiicli of the S.i<katclii wan is the route to lie lollowed to Itriii-li
C'oliimliia 111 a wold, pnlilic iiltciitioii seems lo lie aliiidst (Xcliisively directed to L.iko W innipeg
nn I the North lliancli.

7. ( )iii' of llie rc'iiits nl tlii^ r.\plorili ; l''xpe.hlioii to the Sonih Ihamli of the S,|^kalehcw,lll laxl
year has lieeii to ascertain the praclic.iliihty of (ini-li ncling, at a very -mall co-l, when compared with
a railroad, a coiiimiiiiieatioii for steamers of cmi^ideralile size to near the foot of the Koiky .Mountains,
1)V an uiidi'scrilicd route, which starts from l''oi'i (i.iiry or any iiavii.ialili' part of Kid liiver, pioccids
up the .\>-iliiiil)oiiie to tin' liioiilh ol'llie (^n Appclle or Cilliiig Kivir, then up the liii'.Appellc valley
tn the .Siiiilh lir.iiich of lliu S.iskatchi'Wail, then up the South liraiicli to Ihiw Kiver. Mow Kivcr is
nil allliicil of the .South l!r,iiii li i^sllillg I'riiui the liow Kivcr I'ass, one of the hc-l in the Kncky
Mininlalii r.iiige. In order to coiivcrl this roule into a sicamlioiil coiiiiniiniiMlioii withoiit any
scrioiw intcrriiplioii,' the diversion of the waters ol'lhe .Soiilli liraiich down the tjii'Appelle v.illey i^
invdived.

fs. In Si'ptcmlii r la- 1 1 comioiiiiii .ilt d I'l y^ni nii.ier iLte, Kid Kivcr, Si pi. UUli, the n suits of an
c.xplor.itiiiii of the l^irAppelle Kivcr valley. I li.uc now the hoiioiir to siiliinit llie plans of that
exploration on a scale <d two iiiilies to one mile. .My iiittnictions aiilhuri/id iiie to make a .-iirvey
on a scale of two miles In one iiiili, hilt in coii-e(|iienee ol'lhe great imporlance of this valley, and of
the .-iibject In which it rcfer.-l, I \\Mv prel'ei red to s.-nd ymi pl.ins for the iiif nniation of the (loverii-
liienl on a much larger scftle, withoiil however inlendiiig them to stand in place of those which will
accoinpany the general report.

• A shnrl I1IV..I, uiii'lil lie l>'i|iiiriil .iliiilil I'n n-.ilis frnni llol Uorr. In nviioinu' a ii'ry IMjiiil ilivriiil ol'll.c AssinliiliiiiTH', lull lliis
l)re;ik \u>iilil iH-('ur 11 slmit lli^lil^(.\' ri.iiii a s|ik'iuliil ii{>i JLUltiir.il LiMiii'.iy, ai.d w.iiil.l IiivdUl- a p.iilu^'i.- Itiail ov.r a viiiily trail (il'lalMn 11
tJO and 110 iiiilus. It i^, liuncvvr, lirubublc that i,U-aliii;r> uf liigli liuwir wuiilil lie ulile lu aii'i-iiil Uic iiltri-lit at ttii' sjiut nl'i-iTi-il lo.

SASKATt'IIKWAN KXI'l.OIUNd KXI'KDITIO.N.

f). I now iiroccod fn "liow tin- rcliitloM dC tlu' (Jii'Apiiclli' valley In llif Sontli Iliiincli ol' tin- Sa--
kntclii-wiui anil AfKiiiniliniiii Itivcrx, ami (■> Iriu'c iIh' ri'.uli-> <i(' m'lidirn; llii' w.itiMs ol' tlu- Smitli
nmiirli down till' (jii'.\|>|><'lli) vallry iiitn lilt! Anfiiiiiiliiiiiii', tliriu'c iiilo Kill Itivt'i', piutt rni'l (iitiiy,
ami lliially intu liakc W iMiii|H'K.

10, 'I'lio valley of lln' C^n'A|i|)ell(' Hiver jolii« tin- A"»liiiiilM)iiu' llvi* iiiilcfi iibovo I'lirt I'^liiee, ami
liy tlie wiii(liiin» of llie nver valley alioiit .'iriO mill « iVom Knrl (l.irry. It it "JTd ii>ilen loii^, and
iippeiirH to l)(i a loiiiii'i ('oiitliiiiJilioii of llie Soiilli llniiieli, in a dii'<-etii)ii neaily due ea»l, to the low
rejfinnit now oeciiijieil liy I/iiLih Maoitoli.ili nnd U iiiiiipe','. Itn we^ierri exlreoiily Ii-huim Ironi tlie
South llr.iiii'li at llie (■'Jliow, oi- ilu' pniiil where lliat livei' Iron) u due ea«ferly < oiirHo, suddisdy lal.eH
nnd pi'e^ervcH Cor 'J'tO iiiiIik a noilheily eoiii'te, until it ioiii'' with the North Itraiieh.

11. The narrowest liieailth ol' the Ixitloiii ol' tliu (jiT Appelle valley irt hall' a mile; ilu <j.iv:\l'i>i
lireadlh about one Mill .Mill a liiiH'. It^ nhalloweil part in alioiil I'.M) leel lieiow the level of th»
prairie, and itn iriiul. i deplli in hitween !1.'»() and KMI fi'el. It mtt ii jientlv uliiiiiiii; plain, exteiidin
JVoiii the Soutli llramii to the AH^iilliilioIiie. The ^urfaee of ihi-, pi lin it Hli;;litly iililiilaliiu: .mil at
itn \ve»teni exlriiuity «anil hill iaii;{e.H anil Hand dunex in proiist of I'diiii.i'.ioii oiniiy e.\ten>ivi:
ureii".

I-'. The hinhe^l part of the lioltom of the (Ju'Appille valley \* only M.j feet ahine till' Snnlll
IJraiifh lit ill siuiniier level, and from "."» tn 7H lei I .ilmve it dmiii;; the ^priii;; eleviitinii of iN waleri..
This oeeur» al a point di.-'liiiit I I [, niilin fnmi the juiietion, v\|uie a lake it loiiiid, whieli di eharu'i "
itself liiitli info the Sa-^katehcwan and iV-..inniliiiiiie. Iti fore ennmeliiijj uilli the Aii-iniiilioiiie, il
HiIIh-JisI fret ill 'JM mile-, or I ft. I ill. per mile. The dill'erelli'e of level l)et»ieii llie .^iolitll llrailili,
ikt one end of the (in'.\|ipelle valley and the ,^^«lllllil)oiIle at the ollur, U iiidy •-'()!) feet.

I.'J. In il^ hin^r, deep, and n irniw tiiiir e there are ei;!ht like', hiivii|i{ "i iii;)irei;ale leii;,'lli of .'> I
mile.-i. .Mu-,t of tlie.-e IiiImh ahiiiilid in while li.-'li of ^real >i/e and llie i »t i|i aiity. They are eiai-
iiei'ted with l.iiii;.,' Lake, at sliiiwn in .-lieel No. |0, oeeiipy in;; iumtlie. .. !ley ruiiniii;.' iierth-we,terly,
II eoiiiiterpint ol that (d' the (iii'.\ppello, ii'oM'ulaliiin; willi il al the (iraiid I'orks .■mil willl the South
|lr,uieh M.ine .'10 iiiile-i niinh of the l^lliow. I-oiil; Lake i< III mile* Imii;, ~iiiiiliir, iik fur iii i saw of
it, to Ullllalo I'oniid llill Lake iMiown on flieet No. 11, ill the tju'Appelle v.illev. Il iieeilples n
deep, narrow, exravalid valley, nut e.xeeediii}; a mile and a half to two mill's hruail, mid from UlKI to
.100 fret ileeji.

14. Niimeriiils iiica.''iireliielits of llie depths of 'he I i-hini; Lakes showed lliiin to lioM from 10 to
00 feet of water. Tin se depths svei'e maintained with ^;reat ref;ularity. 'limber cea.-es in the valley
about lOM miles from the .\-sinnihoim'. It ai>|iears a;;aiii al tlie .Miio>e ,Iaws I'ork.s, II) I niih - Irmii
the A^iinnibiiine, iiiiil oienrs iiLiain in small ({nantilies at the Sandy llill.s, near the llei|.rlit of Land.
Moo-e .laws I'orl.s is Well woiiileil lor a eon-iderahle di»l.iiu:e : it eoini s liom the (iraiid Cote.iii di!
Mi-siiiiri, wliii^e blue oiitliues are dislimtly visible i'mm ibis piiiiil of the (jii'.Vpiielle valley.

I.'i. Wilhiiilt eoiisidcriiiL; lure the ipii slioii win tlief the Siiiilb Lramh diil ever pasi down ti,e
valley now oeeiipie I by the iii-ijjniliialit (^u .\ppelle, I pnipii.^e In i^laiiee at the kind of v...ik wliieli
wiiidil bo re>|uireil to .-end ils waters ibron^b this ma^niiliei iil cImiiih I, into tliiit of the A> iiinlboine,
and till nee pa-t I'orl (iairv into Like \\ iiiiii|ie;r, .\iid 1 may here remark, thai aliiiiist evtiy

lo the A ■.slniiiboine,
1 l;illt II et ahove the level nl llie liver 111 .\li;;usl last! .«(> //"// //»)■,■
(liii.i iiiTiir, fur It /iir ini/m nr iliii/.i nir/i i/ntr, ir/n n llif .■.//hm) iinlt.i, n nmliiiiimis initir I'liii'inuiiiniHuii fimn
flirt (liirri/ til iifiir l/ii Smith Jl> 'i, .similar to what would be produieil if li.e .Sa-kiilibeHiin were
diverted down the valley of ihi. ^urAppelliv In l.-s.-j'J it was luiiverled iiilii a lake fri.m the .shandy
Hills to the .\ssiniiilioine

Hi. \ dam, h.l li'et hi;;h. iiiiil (iOO lo (SOO y.iriis loiiii (a few iiiilts lower down llie leli;;th of tile dam
would be much lens aeiu^^ the deep narrow valley in wliieh the Smith Ibiiiub llows, below where the
(^11 .\ppelle valley join- il, VMilild send itM waters down the (jii'A|ipille valley, theliee down the
Assiniiilioine past I'ort (I ;iy, anil lliii-, establish a splendid and pml.ably uninternipted navii^atioii,
for steamers of laii;e -i.e, lor a dislaiiee exei edinj, tinO mill ji. lieyoiid the point 1 iimi'IkiI, lie'
.South llranch w.is rep ■ ted lo me, by the lialf-breeil.s who have vi.sitid it, to emitain no iinpi iliiiu nl
as f.ir as the niiinth <i Itow Hivir, a di-tanee westward of ,'1110 miles. Lv the C'rees of the Sandy
Hills, who hunt on tl e (iii'.Vppelle and the ."soiilh liiaiuh, I was aUo assured that no rapids or iiu-
peilinu'iits uf any di seription, beymul ehaii'jni;; mud and sanibbars, exist between the Llbow and
iiow Kiver. Tin ma^iiitiiile ol the South liiaiieli r.l the LIbow, and the chariuter of the country
lliroii;.;li whieb it Hows, had to the iul'erenee that al the iv.oiilli of ISow lliver il is slill u liiri^e uiul
navij^able »' «ani.

17. Wlieiber it would lu' a matter, of eeynoiny to constriiet ii dam, 'lit, .10, or (iO feet hi^li, across
tlio Soutii lirani'h, and make a euttiin; ihroiijib the lleijihl of Land in the (^a'Appclle valley, eorre-
spondiiiji to the altitude of the dam, is an eli;;iiieeriii;^ i(il> sliou I am not eompetent to diseu>s. Il
may be iiere reiniirked that the hill sides and the valley of the tiii'Appellc. fur a di-taiiee of six miles
from the .South Hraiich, arc covered willi lar;;e boulders, and would liirnish an iibnndaiit sii|iply of
that kind of material. Large iinil water-worn tne- of ir.aiiy fpcries were observed on the sand-bars
and mud (lals of the {jrcat river, evidently brouudit by the stream from some distance above.

IH. It will be asked whether injurious cDiiseipicnces to the settlements on Ued Iiiver and the
Assiimiboine iiii;,dit not ensue from the passai^e of .so l,iri,'e a body of water, duriiipt sprinj;' freshets,
down the valleys of tlio^e rivers. The answer lo iliis iimstioii is rendered remarkably simple, by the
peculiarity of the valley of the Assiimiboine just before it meri,'i's into the open low prairie eoimiiy,
two miles above Prairie l'orlai;e. Here the river iflides in an exeavated Ireiic'i .ib ml l(i feet below
the prairie, but in times of very bij;li (lood.s it semis waler across tiie iir.iirie, iloivn the liroad, sliidlow
valley of Hut Kivulet, into Lake Munilobah. Uat Rivulet rises in the liad Woods, west oi' Prairie

- I r" .1 ,' , '

sprilii;, the whole of ilie (^ii'.\ppi He \alley is leiuded froiii the lb ielit of Land lo the ,\
U'e benii'iiilv fiiniid water-marks i ijilit li el above the levil of the livi r in .\iiLrust last; .i<

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Portage, witliiii two or three miles of the Assinnilioine ; and the ridge which divides it from the
river is an imperceptible rise in the pmirie which the eye can scarcely detect. A shallow cut through
the gentle rise separating the Assinnihoine from Hat Rivulet would permit all flood waters to flow
into Lake Manilobah, and protect the settlements on Red lliver from any danger of being flooded*

10. The country drained by the South Branch above the Elbow is very little known. The
descriptive accounts I received from half-breeds who have traded with and resided among the
Blackfeet Tribe of Indians occupying this region were very encouraging as regards the IJow River,
especially in respect of climate, and the timber which covers the eastern slope of the Hocky
Mountains. They represent it as far more attractive and delightful, in every way, than the region
drained by the North Branch and its tributaries, which, being ent by the 54th parallel of latitude, is
three degrees further north, and thus suffers from many of the disadvantages of climate belonging to
its geographical position.

20. As an instance of the difference in climate between the North and South Branch, I may
mention that, in August last, we found the Mesaskatomiiia berry ripe, luscious, and in the greatest
profusion on the Qu'Appelle and South Branch, growing on trees 16 to '20 feet high, whereas on the
iVorth Branch, ten days afterwards, they were found scarcely ripe, on small stiuited bushes from five
to seven feet in altitude. I had an opportunity of conversing with men who had resided for years
among the Blackfeet, and who had wanilered backwards and forwards from Bow lliver to the
Columbia, through Boiv River pass: from their descriptions I infer that, in point of soil and climate,
the eastern slope of tiie Rocky Mountains, unwatered by Bow River and Red Deer River, is well
adajited for a grazing country.

21. The advantages to be derived from the suggested diversion of the waters of the South Branch
down the valley of the Qu'Appelle, are numerous and highly important.

(1.) The distance between Fort Garry and the foot of the Rocky Mountains would be shortened
by at least 40(1 miles.

(2.) The route would be a steamboat navigation, probably with one short break on the Assin-
nibi)ine, from Breakenridge, on Red River, or any point on Lake Winnipeg, to the foot of the Rocky
IMonntains.

{'•i.) Batteaux might drift from Bow River to Fort (larry without discharging cargo, or even
touching land.

(4.) The season of navig.itiou would be eight to ten weeks longer than by the North Branch. Tin?
ice does not often leave the bead of Lake Winnip-g before the lOtli iif June. 'l"he Sotitli Branch
mi;.'ht be readied from Fort Garry, through the Cju'Appelle valley, by the 10th day of May, often by
the 1st of May.

(5.) 'I'lie proposed route passes through the most promising and feitilc part of Rupert's Land,
namely, the valley of the Assinnihoine. 'I'he whole we.stern flank of the Riding Mountain would
then become available for .settlement, as well as the fertile area south of the Qu'Appelle, as far as the
Mission, 119 miles from its month. The Touchwood Hill Range, on account ot its proximity to
Long Lake, would accpiire the importance which its wonderfully rich and fertile soil promises for it.

((5.) The best ]iass through the Rocky Mountains would be approached by the most direct route,
and be, in fact, a continuation of that route.

(7.) Tile dangerous and circuitous navigation of Lake Winnipeg avoided, the Graiul Rapids
surmounted, and the yet apparently unknown dilFlcultics of the Coal Falls, just above the Forks of
the Saskatchewan, overcome. 'I'lie " Coal Falls " are situated on the North Branch ; they consist of
a series of rapids for 18 miles, and are much obstructed by boulders, many of which are expose<l
during low summer levels. In the South Braiu:li, for a distance of 2.)0 miles, I saw no rapid which
might not be ascended with ease by any river steamer, and at the FIbow it is a finer stream than the
North Branch is at the Grand Forks.

(8.) The route from Lake Huron, via Lake Superior and Lake of the Woods, would lie in a line
nearly straight to the Rocky Mountains.

22. These observations apply exclusively to a steamboat route, which is necessarily limited to the
summer months. But in the initiatioti of any pcrmaiu'iit postal route across the continent, north of
the 49tli parallel, the means ot establishing a winter communication must not be omitted. If possible,
the summer and winter route should coincide, and pass through areas of country fitted to invite
settlement, and become centres of civilization in this vast unpeopled wilderness.

• In Mr. Daw«on'M Ileport, dated Tdroiito, IM»ninry '-'-', IH.")!l, tlu- futlowinj^ I'nnl nijt»> is itisiTli>d : — " Since writiiiK the iibove, I
liave tiitd the advjint.i;ii' i*t' lieiirin^; I'rofessor Hind's lecture on the siihjert t(t whii-li it refers ; but even iidniitthiff that the whole
volume of the South Ut,tncli of ti.e S)skatche»ini coutd be turned into the (^u'.Xppelle, it must not be supposed that lueks coulfl lie
dispensed with. It is possible, indeed, that in the valley ot' the (iu'Appelie itself, "lieie the descent is represented as being vt ■
gentle, the current iniirht not l)e too strong for steamers <d' great pi)wer. Itut on the .\ssinniboine, frotn lite Itapid Itiver downward,
in making the dfscent from the higher prairie to tlie lower, wliere, as I have said, there must be a fall of ;((K) feet, the accumulated
mass of water would rush with the ini|ietuosity of it nioinitaiii torrent. I'lie plains ot lied Itiver W(,uld be converted into a sea, and
the Settlement swept into Like Winnipeg." It is necessary to mention, in rclatiini Ut this paragraph, that I exhibited at the lecture
referred to, a map on a scale of two miles to one inch of the country between Lake ^laiutohah and the Assinnihoine, showing the
valley of Hat lliviiUt, and the means to be nilopted to pre\enl the injnriinis consequeticeti which might be supposed to arise from the
passage of so large a body of watt ..s that of the South Itranch of the Saskatchcwati in conjimction with the Assimtilloine, past the
Settlements at lied Kiver doriug spring freshets. .'Mr. Dawsiin appears to have forgotten this map and the explanalions which accom-
panied its production, otherwise he would not liave imaginett "//{« /j/ai/ts o/' /^f/ Jtiirr cnnrrrtetl into a Sfa, and the Setlhmvnts sifrpt
into Ijttke Winniimj" 'I'his forgetfuluess is the more remarkable, since it appears that Mr. Dawson was familiar with this old water-
course of the Assinnihoine long l)efore the above description of the t^ii'.Appetle valley was pnhhshed. for I find <nl page f> of bis Iteport,
under date " -Uh tluly ISJS," the following paragraph: — " In speaking of navigable lines that might be made availiible, I should
mention that at the (trand Portnge there is said to be an iilt truhr fti'n-m', hi/ iclikli tin- Assinniltiiiur^ in iiU pnittitf'ility, /tun at stunt jieritjtl
il'titcUurijvtl Hit unitern Inti' lltf Mtintttitmlt LtiJit" " I'lie accumulated mass of water, rushing w ith the impetuosity of a mcnintain torrent,"
is a pi.etical descri|ition ot a pbeoonicnon which is nppio.icla-d every spring when tlu' snow melts; tint it leaves no traces of its occur-
rence liivond water-marks on the sides of tile deep t>roiiil valley in which the Assitmibuine (lows, and on the trees which cover a large
portion of the (lats. (See paragraph .N'o. I,', of this communieation.)

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

i23. The line of route by the Asainniboine, Qu'Appelle, and South Branch, is admirably fitted for
a postal commiinication, which could be carried on during summer and winter, by horses and dogs,
at a minimum speod of 100 miles a day. Tliis might be easily accomplislu'd by the establishment of
post stations in localities where they would become centres of popuhition in the midst of fertile areas.
Such areas are known to exist on the line of route (see No. !>, paragraph 21) proposed, as far as the
South Uranch, beyond which is an unexplored region to the mouth of How Kiver. The lunnanizing
influence of missionary entorprize could be most favourably Kursued at these stations.

24. Considered apart from the great local advantage of , isessing a steamboat communication to
the foot of the Rocky ^[ouiitains, either by the North or South Hranch, the occurrence of gold in
unexpected abundatice in British Columbia, not only on Fraser's River, but also on 'rhom|)son's
River and elsewhere, over wide areas, coupled with the emigration and commercial activity to which
it will give rise, is sufficient, I think, to warrant mc in drawing your attention to the subject. It is
one which is continually acquiring increased importance ; in the eyes of our American neighbours ■ f
the western states it is of paramount interest ; and I think we may look upon the banks of the South
Branch of the Saskatchewan as the great emigrant route to British Columbia which will be eventually
adopted.

2.J. The opening of a route lietween Red River and Lake Superior will now rapidly grow into
importance, and the communication between the Atlantic and Pacific by I.akc .Superior, l{ainy Lake,
the Assiiniibiiine, and South Branch of the Saskatchewan, begin to involve commercial and political
advantages of the highest importance to secure.

The following maps accompany this communication : -

r. A map of the valley of the Qu'Appelle, on the scale of two inches to one mile.
II. A map of the country between the Assinuiboine and Manitobah Lake, showing the valley of
Rat Rivulet.
111. A map showing the proposed route across the Continent.

PRELIMINARY REPORT.

Sill, Toronto, March 2tith, 18,j9.

1 have the honour to address to you a Preliminary Report on the results of the Assinuiboine
and Saskatchewan Exploring Expcflition to accompany the topographical maps <>!' the region
explored. These maps are conslructed upon a scale of two miles to one inch in conii)liance with
your instructions dated 27th April lf<.")8.

1 have sent to you from time to time, during the past summer and uutunni, Reparts on the progress
of the Expedition. These rc|)(irts were as follows: —

No. 1. Dated (irand Portage, Lake Superior, May iith.

No. 2. Dated Red River Settlement, June Urd. Including a lieport on the Pigeon River Route,
by Mr Dickinson, C.E., with the following nuips.

1. Map of the Pigeon River route.

2. A general map of the whole route.

.'J. A track survey of the Pennawa River.

No. 3. Dated Fort Ellicc, July 9th, I8.JH.

No. 4. Dated Red River Settlement, September lOth, 1858, including a report on the track
Survey made by Mr. Dickinson, with one map showing the extent of country traversed by the
Expedition.

No. 5. Dated Red River Settlement, November 8th 1858, including a rejwrt by Mr. Dickinson on
a track Survey south of the Assiuniboinc, Sic, with a map showing the extent of country traversed
by the Expedition.

On February Urd, 18!i9, I had the honour to submit to you a communication "On the Qu'Appelle
" or Call-ng River, and the diversion of the waters of the .South Branrh of the Saskatchewan down
" its valle\ , with a view to the eoustruclion of a steamboat communication from Fort (iarry, Red
" River, to i.car the foot of the Rocky Mountains ;" with, Ist, a map of the Qu'Appelle River
valley from the South Branch of the Saskatchewan to the Assinnlboine Biver, on a scale of two
inches to one uiie.

2n(l. A man of the country between Prairie Portage on the Assinnihoine and Lake Manitobah.

I now beg lea>'e to describe the general features of the whole country explored, as delineated upon
the large map winch accompanies this outline of the residts attained during the past year.

AUEA TUAVEIMCD.

The country traversed by the Expedition is embraced between the 49th and 54th parallels of
latitude and the 9(>th and 107th degrees of longitude. The lines of Exploration crossed an area of
about 80,000 square miles, or nearly equal to that of Great Britain. The form of this area is
similar to that of a parallelogram, being bounded on the south by the 49th parallel, ami a line
drawn from the jjoint where the Little Souris River cuts it, to the Elbow of the South Branch of
the Saskatchewan,

On the east it is bounded by the west coast of Lake Winnipeg, on the iioiili by the Main
Saskatchewan, and on the west by the south branch of that river. The longest diameter of this

E 2

KKrORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

piiiallelogram from Prmbinn to tlic (iraiid Forks is about 450 inilc;-, anil its transverse diameter
sligiitly exceeds o-M miles.

Sl'IiFAlE Ff-atuuks.

'I'iic wiiiilp counliy, from tlie South Uraneli of the Saskatcliewan to the \allry ol" the Asiiiiniboine,
sl()|)is ill an easterly (lireition, with a general inelination of abont one foot in a mile. 'J'liis tiope is
continued tlironifliout llie valley of the Assinniboiiie to Jled Hiver, after a rather abrupt descent near
wiiere the Assiiiniboine makes its easterly bend.

Xorlh-east of llie Assinniboiiie the country ri.-TS almost iiii|ieiTeptibly for a tlistancc of 15 to ;)5
mile.-, a* far as the base of a scrii'S of liill-ran;,'es lyin;.; |)arallel to the general direction of the river
valley before it makes its easterly bend ; it tiien rises by successive step.s and sloping iilateanx to a
sniiiinit altitude of about 1,000 feet above Lake Winnipeg, or l,(iO() feel above the sea.

'i'lie-e hill-ranges are known by the names of the Kiding Mountain and the Duck Mountain.
On their eastern and south-eastern flanks they show an abrupt and broken escarpment, and within
the space of live to l."» miles the co'.mliy sinks from l,(iO() to (i80 feet above the sea, or within 80 feet
of the levil (if Lake Wioiiipcg.

At the fool of the.se liill-iaiigis, am! east of llicm, lie the great Lakes Winnipego-sis and Manito-
bah, MJiiih are separated I'rom Jjake Winnipeg by a low, mar.-hy, and nearly level tract, bavin" an
elevation rarely exceeding iSO feet above il.

A line drawn throngli the hiriesl exiiaii.-e of Lake \Viniiipeg, .iiiDthcr thnnigh Lakes Manitobah
and Uinnipigo-sis. a thinl through tiic iippir p'.it of the Assliiniboine Valley, and a fourth ihrongh
that III tile .^iiiuii liiMiich of the .'^asi-.aleliewaii, liom the F.lliow to the Orand Finks, would be nc.uiv
parallel lo one anotlier, maintaining a direction nearly due north and soulh. the devialion being iii
favour of N.W. Ijy N.r.nd f^.K. by S. It nn'.y be I'lntlK r observed that the .Main .Saskatchewan, i'roin
the Ciraiid T'orks to Cedar Lake, and the sdiulieiii portion of the Assiiiiiibiiiiie, (low tiiroogh vallevs
also nearly panillel to oiu' another, and at right angles to those before enimicrated.

'riiis eniliprm (listriliiition of lake and river valleys is deleniiiiied by the direction of the hill .uid
ridge ranges which chaiacterise the eoMiitry. 'I'he South liiaiieh of llie Saskatchewan, la low JJcd
J)eer's liivi r, is .sep:iia;cd Irein tl.e Misxniri by the (iraiid Cdtcan dii Mis-oiiri. A continnalion or
spur of llie (irand Coliau eonuson the (Ju'.\ppclle Itiverat the Height of L.nid about 18 mih's from
the Klb^iw of the .^oi.lli Ibaiicli. Here it is called the '• Hyebrow Hill Kantie," by the Crees. It
apjicirs to terminate soddiidy in the form of an isol.ited hill about -IIK) feet above the plain, called
"llie Lumpy Hill (if the Wnods," a liw miles beyiiid the point where the Jsoutli liranch takes
its easterly liirn to juin the Ndrth Ih'anch at the (Ir.iud Forks.

'J'he South liiaiieii flows for fully •JOO iiiihs below the fdliow at the fool of this continuatiim of the
l!yehrow Hill rang", in a northerly direction, and ils <leep excavated valley appears lo lie at an
averages dilance ef 1"_' miles from it. This range is cut by several narrow dee|) valleys, and lidiii
the small lakes or pimds which oeeujiy their summits, water during spring freshels, (lows to the
Saskatchewan and Assinniboine.

'J'he valley of the (O'l'.Vpp! lie Kiver is a singular and import.int iiistame of this Inti'rlockage.
A general (h'scri])iion of this valley is given in my conniuinieatidn dated Febrnarv .'3rd, I8.')!l.
AViiliin 50 miles soiilh-west of the (iran I h'orks, and a short distance -onlli of the Lumpv Hill of the
vVooils, there is ;inother deep valley in the liividing ridge, from whose suimnil-lakelets water flows in
the spring to the S.uith Ih'aiich, a di-iaiiee of 10 or 1"J miles, and al-o to the Main Sa-kaichewan,
which il reaches below I'ine Lake, a distance e.xcceding l(iO miles. One other iiiterlocka ,■ between
the .South liranch an'l liie valley of the Afsinniboine will be noliciil in the description ol llie vallevof
the Qu'.Vppille Uiver.

ISesides ihe imposing Hiding and Duck Mountains, the 'i'oneliwood Hills may be eniiini rated as
very iniporlant and striking in a region who-e markcl characteristic is that of a i;entlv sloping plain.
'J'licse hills lie bi'tv.een the head v,,i|irs ol' the Assinnihouio and ihe .Soulli liranch; the elevation of
the highest pe.ik, the Heart Hill, prol/ably does not exceed V'OO feet above the general h^vel of tin;
final I'lain. The cmirse of this r.oige is from iiorlh ea~t lo soulh-.vcst, and it tiirins llie most
]iroiiiliienl of seveial ranges which lie parallel to one another. West of ihe ToucliHood Hills the
eonlinii.alioii of tli<' r.mge is known liy ihe name of the Last .Mountains, mid at its b.ise is fimnil one
exlremily of the Last jMoiinlaio Lake, which occu]iies a valley -10 miles long, anil is narrow and
deep, like that of the (Ju'.Appelle I'iver,

.^oiith ol' ihe A-sinnihoine the Tuitle Moiiiilain is a ])i'oiniiient and imporl.ant fcaliirc. It is cut
by the 4!Uli ]),iiallel. 'Ihe Hliie !lilL-of tln' Soiiris si rve lo destroy the general sameness of the
prairie level on the river after which they ari^ nameil, while tla^ liliie Hills south of the -\ssiniiihoine,
and ea-l of the liltle .'^onris I'ivi r, oli'ci' peilnps ||,v .elest and most picliii\ sque scenery ni llie area
line referred lo. The I'orcipme Hill, 'I'huodir .Mount. lin, and rasipiiii llill were not included
within the area explored. They are eminences which lie between lla^ (irand liapids of the .SasKal-
ehewaa and ihe head watirs of llie .\:-.siiiiiiboine, all of tliiMii probably forming at a former epoch a
coutiiiualion of a vast table land, now broken into detached mountain ranges by denudulion.

Laki's Asn Uiviuis.

I'l'iiiiiineiit among the physical features of this region are the vast expanses of water which occii|jy
the larger |ioition of its eastern area. Lake W iniiipeg is .'!l)0 miles long, and in several parts more
than ."lO miles broad. Lakes Maiiitol.^ah and W iniii|)ego-s's together are nearly ot the same length.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOllING EXPEDITION.

and tiie broadest part of tlic firat-named is not less than 35 miles across. Nearly the whole country
between Lake Winnipeff and its westcri rivalH is occupied by smaller lakes, ao tliat between the
valley of the Assinniboine and tlic east( ii gjiore of Lake \Viiinii)eg fully one third is permanently
under water. These lakes, both laff^e and small, are shallow, and in the same water area show much
uniforniity in <lepth and coast line. .Several hundred woundiiigs in Lakes Winnipeg and Manitobali
.showed a greate.st depth of <i4 feet, which is exceeded by that of tiio Qn'Appellc Lakes in the valley
of the (Jii'.Vppellc or f'allin;.^ Kiver. Some of tlie smaller lakes are of dimetisions which entitle them
to notice. Such are St. jMartin's Lake with an area exceeding iJOO sipiare miles; Water-hen Lake;
Kbb and Flow Lake, and I)an[>h:u Lake, both covering an area of more than 1,")0 square miles.

West of the Assinniboine we have the Qu'Appelle Lakes, situated in the Qn'Appellc valley, eight
in number, and willi an aggregate length of 70 miles, ]5c.sides these, the Last Mountain Lake before
mentioned is 40 miles long, and varies from three ([uarters of a mile to two miles iii width. Tho
(iu'Appellc Lakes are very deep, I 1 fathoms or G(> feet having been recorded.

North-east of the Touchwood Hills tlicre arc numerous large lakes, having areas varying from
1*20 to DO si|iiare mile.s. Home of tiicse ara strongly impregnated with saline ingredients, and are
the haunts of innumerable hosts of geese and other a(|Matic birds. On the south-east flank of the
same range and throughout the plain stretching towards the Assinniboine, lakes and ponds are every-
where distributed.

'I'he western flank of the Hiding Mountain is dotte<l with small hdics, ponds, and marshes ; the
same remark applies to a large area south <if the Assinniboine and east of the Little l>ouris.

Lake Winnipeg receives the waters of uunierous rivers, which, in tiie aggregate, drain an area of
abcuil tOO.dOl) s(|iiare miles. The Sii.skatchewaii (the riv('r that runs swift) is its most important
tributary. The ;?oiuh liraneli, It* miles l)elon- the KUiow, and '>>^ I miles from its month, is (iOO yards
broad. The rale of llii> current is here '2,' miles pir hour: tho grcalest depth is 10 feel in the nmin
channel : the mran depth across being -1 Mi feel. 'I'liere are channels on both sides of the river, one
being (> and tiie oilier 10 feet deep. Aller parsing the Mouse Woods about 1)0 miles from the
Klhow the river channel is niucli contracted, its current is uniform and swift, varving from 'J ,' to ;t|
miles per hour ; mud and sand-bars disappear, and it llinvs between high banks of drift clay, with a
liouiuiless. treeless, arid prairie or plain on either h;ni(l. At the Moose \Vooils, wiiere the rivi'r is
very liroad and smd-hars numerous, the jiadih, of canoes have loiiclied the bottom frcan one side to
the otli<r with the ordinary s";.iie ul the voyageiirs; this ocenrred during a season of low water. .Vt
the time of onr visit in Aiigu-t hi-t, Indians were ern.-.slng on liorseback IVom the right to llie left
bank aliove the lilliow, the deplii ikjI exceeding lour I'ect. IJefure jciiniiig tin; North liriinch the
eurrenl hcconus very siron;;, oiten from ;!1 to 1 miles an hour. The river winils bet-.^cen high
pr<'eipi;oiis banks; tia-esls of oak, elm, a.-h, iispeii, and birch cover the low ])oints, the opposite hill
banks Ik iui; clothed eliiedy with liircli and aspens, ti roves of siirnce show themselves on ajiproachiug
the North liraneii, but the soil on tiie prairie plateau maintuini tlic most luxuriant growth of vetclies,
ro.~es, and berry-bearing bushes of dinerent kinds wherever t!ie ,is];en I'orots have been burnt and
open areas formed. I'roin the LIbow to the (irand I'orks the (iislance is 'J.jO iiiiles, and in general,
throughout tlie last ;"i() miles of its entirsi', the .Sonlli liraneii llows through a liiiiily wooded co'iiurv,
but pos-cssing a soil of great depth and fertility.

Tlie main .Saskatchewan oppn-ite Fort ii la (.'orne is ."i-.H) yards bread, 'JO feet deep in the channel,
and flows at the rate ol ."! miles iv hour. The mean depth aeros the river here is 14 feet, Init it is
in the mcmoiy of those living at the I'ort, when the river was crossed on horseback during a very dry
sea-on.

.\bont l.">,-s miles below Fort li la Corne, near Tearing Itivei', the Jlain Saskatchewan is 'MO yards
liroal, 'i'J led deep in the channel, has a mean sectional depth of 'Jo feet, and flows at the rale of
•J miles an hour. "Ji'l miles below the (irand I'ork-- the .Slain .Sn.-l<iilehewan enters Cedar Lake,
;iO miles long. Issuing from this large body of water it expiinds into a small lake, but soon again
contracting its channel, the Cros-, Lake rapids come into view; tliesi' rapids have a fall of .") ,' leet.
Ilndson's l>ay ( 'omp.my'.s boats of four or five tons are tracked up tiieia wilh Inilf cargo, but
loadeil boats deseendiiiL', run the rapids. 'Ijie length of the poitaiie involved in ascending tlii' river
is '.'.'li) yards. The ."•'askateliewan now eiitirs Cross Lake, and after issuing from lliis elongated
expanse of water begins a rapid course to Lake A\ inuipeg, with a current often ',) idid somitinies
.'U miles an hour. The luad of the (irand Itiipids is about 4 miles Ironi the mouth of the river.
The length of tlu^ portage is I mile 7 eh;iins. The ra|)ius below the portage are alioiit 1 .1 mile
long, so that the toti.l Kngth of ilii' (.irand Kapids exceeds -JJ, miles. 'I'lie fall from the west to the east
end of the portage, as ascertained by levelling, is "JS.Ji feel. The fall liilow the portage is estimaled
to be I.j feet, Cdiiseipicntly the total fall is about -l-'i I'ei't. The (irae.d Kapids are run by llud.son's
I'ay Coi '(ally's loaded boats; in ascinding Iroiii the fnot of ilie niiiids in the easl end of the |)ortage
boats :ire f.icked or toued up wilh half cargo: they are then run back ag.iin, and again tricked up
with the other h.ilf of their freight. From east to west end of the port.ige lai.its are tracked up on
the .■•iiith sidi' of ihe river, with a load of I.) pieces ( I, .'i.'iO Ihs), the remainder of llie Ireiglit is
curried over the portage. The distance from the liraud Forks to ihe month of the Saskiitchewan in
;14-J miles; the distance from the Klhow of tlu' .Soiilh Uranch to the month is (il)iJ miles.

The S.iskatcliewan receives .several allluents on its soiilli side, wiiich are importuiU only on account
of the fertile tracts of country they drain.

Long Creek rise.; within 10 miles of the South I'r.nich, and fiillowing the same nnrtlicrly direction,
empties itself into the .Saskatchewan near F'ort il hi Corne, alter a course of about 40 miles,

C.irrot or Hoot Uiver rises near the heiul watcr.s of Loni; Creek, and Mowing in an easterly direction
to the north of the Uircli Hills, empties itself, aller a couise of 170 miles, near the I'as.

i: 3

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

About HO miles in an air line south from the Grand llnpids, and 136 miles by tho canoe route
along the coast, Lake VVinnijiog receivts the Little Stwkatchewaii or Daii])liiii Kiver, through which
Lakes Manitobali and Winnipcgo-sis disciiargi; tlieniselves. During ordinary siiniuier levels the
Dauphin Kiver offers no itnpedimeiit to small steamers of liglit draught. It thus tortus a valuable
and direct comninnicatioii between liie vast water ureas which it links together. It Hows through a
Hal and swampy country, oH'cring very few inducements, or indeed opportunities for seltleinent. The
Mission of I'airford is situated on tiiat part of this river which lies between .St. .Martin's Lake and
Lake Matiitobali, having been removed to its present position from the lower part of Dauphin Kiver
in consequence of the occurri'iice of destructive floods the surface of the country not being above
eight feet over the summer level of the river. Dauphin Lake is connected with Lake Wimiipego-ais
by Moss Kiver, navigable in high water by lied Kiver freighters' boats. 'I'he tributaries received by
Dauphin Lake scarcely r. -iniie notice here, although they may become useful as all'ording nica'-s (or
transporting the valuable spruce of the Hiding and Duck Mountain to Lake Manitobali. The most
important of these tributaries is the Valley Kiver. which separates the Duck from the Kiding
Mountain.

Lake Winnipego-sis receives the Kod Deer Kiver and .Swan Kiver, which open conununit^xtion to
an important tract of country ea*t and north-east of the head waters of the Assinniboine. The .south-
western exlrcmiiy of Lake Miinitobah is distinguished by the extent and ricliness of the prairies,
which at a higher lake level it has assisted in forming. The White Mud Kiver, which meanders
through them, may be classed among the most valuable of the lesser tributaries of the (Ireat Lakes ot
the Winnipeg ba^in.

.\t its soutiiern e.xtninity Lake Winnipeg receivis the Kcil liivei' ol the north, which, tog'-ther
with its important atllueiit the Assinniboine, unwaters an area of extraonlinarv fertility and extent,
already partially described in my report on the Kcd lliver I'.xjieditioii in lts."»7.

The Assinniboine joins Kcd lliver in latitude 40° .54'. .Vl the coiitlneiu'i! o( these livcrs Fort
Garry is situated. It rises in latititde .'il° 4(1', and pursues a .^outh-casterly course for a di>tance of
about 260 miles parallel to the basins of the Great Lakes on the east of the llidiu"; and Duck Moun-
tains. Within 18 miles south of the 50th parallel it takes a sudden be;;' lo tlie east, which direction
is preserved until it falls into lied lliver, a distance of about •2'.'.) '■•iles from the great bend at Lane's
Post. Twenty-ttto miles from Ton Garry the .\ssinniboiiie i- 1"J0 feel broad Muiu' 'Jts, lt*."if<), with
a mean sectional depth of *> feel. Its greatest depth lii'ie is "J feet, and the rate of its current is li
miles an hour. Near IVairie I'oilage. (i7 miles from Fort (!arry, the speed of the current is two miles
an hour, and its fall, as ascertained by levelling, is I • 18 feel in n mile. .\t its jniietici wiih the
Little Souris, an aflhienl which it receives 110 mile> liom its month, the breadth of the river is 11:10
feet, its greatest depth \'2 feet, and its mean sectional depth 8(i, the -pitd of it» eurreiil being l^
miles an hour. It thus ajipears that tlii- ri\er is cnn^idcrably larger ll(i miles from its outlet than
'2'2 mile- from the same place, i'.ven at Fort Kllice, "JW) miles from its jiuietion with Ked lliver, the
Assiniiibuiiie i> l."i."> fei't wide, li!) feel deep in the eliaiitiel, with a mean sectional deplli of 8 feel,
and a currciil flowing at the rate of 1^ miles an ho\ii ; in other words, this river, "280 niihs from its
month, carries a larger body of water than at a jioiiil '22 mihs from it.

The following table shows the (piantily of water which ihe .Assinniboine carries at three iliH'ereiit
points, distant respectively in round numbers *J'J miles 140 miles, and "JSO miles from its outlet by the
windings of the river valley, but not by the winilings of the river itself, which will be at least double
the Icnjith of the river vallev.

Volume nf U'alir in tin' Assiimihoiue.
IJubic Feet p*'r Hour.

IiiKtjinof fniii) Oiitlft
al l-'ort (jitrry.

•22 miles.
140 „
'.'80 .,

Lane's Post - - - ,'>,70'_',400
Mouth of Little Souris - 12,8!)!»,040

Opposite Fori Ellice - - 9,!t7i>,200

It thus appears that the volume of water in the .Vi-siimiboine is nearly twice as large at Fori Kllice as
'2M miles lower down the river, if the foregoing table affords suflieient data on which to rest an
opir.ion. It is very probable that the character of the season woiihl iiiiiilif\' these resulis in dill'erent
vears. The measuniiicnis wi re not made -imnllaneoiisly, and the rainfall in the iieighhoiiihood of
the Toncliwoo<l Hills and in the region about Fort I'elly was ri'iuesented to be mon- in the extreme
than is usual during the summer months. Hut judging from the apix^arance of ihe river bank, and
the statements of Indians and half-breeds familiar with the •nmmer level at the localities where the
sections were made, there is no reason to suppose that its waters were in excess of their ordinary
summer level. It is there'.ire very probable that evaj)oratiim during a long and tortuous course
thrcmgh an o|)en valley is a(lec|iiale to diminish the volume of water in the Assinniboine very much
in excess of the supply which it receives from tributaries or springs during its course to lied Kiver.

Fast of Prairie Portages the Assinniboine flows throiifjh a Hat, o|)en. |)iairi:- country, not Ifi
feet below its general level where it is rut by the stream. The whole count ly rising in steps .above
or west of the Pr)rtage, the Assinniboine has excavateil a dee]) broa<l valley in wliicii it meanders
with a rapid current.

At ihe mouth of the L'ttlc Souris or Mouse Kiver, this valley is 880 yards at i ^ss. and 8;H'ect
below the general level of the prairie. Al Fort Kllici' its valley is 1 mile am' ,"J0 chains broad,
and '2M feet below the prairie.

The Assinniboine nceivcs numerous and importanl afllnents. On its eastern water-shed are the
Two Creeks, Pine (,'ivek. Shell lliver, IJirdstJiil Kiver, and Kapiil Kiver or the Little .Saskatchewan.
The distances of the livers from Fori Pelly, which may be considered as lying al the head of the

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

bateau navigation of the Assinniboine, will be noticed liereufter when the country they drain is
dcBfribcd. I'Voui its western wuter-slicd it receives the White Sand River from tiie Touchwood
Hills; the Qu'Appelle or Callinf^ River, inoseulalini.' with the south liranch ot the Saskatchewan;
Beaver Creek, a small rivulet on whi(!li Fort Klliee is situated ; and the I/ittle Souris or Mouse
River, troiii the Grand Coteau de Missouri. I'he Creea of the Sandy Hills on the South Itratich
state that KIbow Hone Creek, an aRluent of the Qu'Appello River, inosculates by a <iee[) valley with
the Mouse Rivei', or an aim of it, and is uoniu-cted continuously with the Assiuniboine, winding round
the northern flank of the (iratui Coteau de Missouri.

The (ju'Appelle or Calliuff River falls into the Assinniboinc about five miles below Fort Ellice.
At its moulh this sti"am is HS Ret broad, 12 feet deep in the main charuiel, aiul shows a moan
sectional depth of eiijl.t fiet; its current is at the rate of IJt miles an hour. The valley in which it
Hows inosculates with the South Branch of the Saskatchewan at the KIbow. It is 270 miles Ion;;, aiul
7(1 miles from the Assiiniiboine aliont one mile broad (7H chains), and •'tlO feet below the prairie,
which stretches north and south from its abrupt edges as far as the eye can reach. At the
Qn'Appelle Mission, 1 lit miles from the Assimiiboinc, the valley is Ij miles broad and 2.j0 feet
deep. TIk' river here it 48 feet wide, six teet deep in the chaimel, with a mean sectional depth of
iliree fiit s'.x ;;;iiies, a .u a current of one mile an hour. The lakes at this point have u depth of 57
feet, so that llie total excavation below the prairie on either liaiul is .'107 teel.

Near the tirsl or tJu'Appello Forks the valley is one Miile and one-third broad, and 220 feet deep.
At the east end of Sand Hill Lake, 23!) miles from the Assinniboine and '•i\ miles from the South
Ibancth, the valley is one mile and live chains broad, with a depth ot 140 feet below the prairie.
Kighl miles from the west eiul of Sand Hill Lake, or 15 miles from tiir Saskatchewan, the valley is
one mile and 70 chains broad and 150 feet deep. At the Heiijh* of Laiid wliere it has been invaded
bv saiid dimes liom ilie west and south-west, it is still nea ly one u ile broad (7."< chains), and
1 10 teet deep, eslimati'd from the well-deliued edge of the v.lley, when a low escar|)ment of rock,
still uncovered bv the advancing sand of the dunes, serves to mark its limit and the power of
the forces wliieh excavated it. The level of the prairie dotted with sand hills ind dunes is some
.'10 ti'i't above the edge of the rock noticed above.

I'lie Little Souris or .M(msi' River joins liic Assinniboine 140 miles from Fort Garry, by the
windi.i^s 111' the river valley, and I l(i by the bull'alo hunter's trail. At its mouth the Little Sonris
is 121 feel broad, thri'e leet six iiiili(s deep in the channel, with a mean si'ctioiial depth of two feet
four inelies, and a eurrenl of half a mile an hour. Its valley, at the Hack-lat Creek, 25 miles from
the ,\ssiniiiboiiie, is one miU^ and a half broiiil (8,0l(i feet), and 225 feet deep, with a level prairie
on either hand. Near Snake Hill, (il miles from the outlet, the valley is only 110 yards broail, and
(Ui feet dei p, with open prairie on both sides. The rivei here is 100 feet broad, and four feet dec[) in
the channel. .Vt this spot scvtral lieache-. of a former lake were exposed in making a cutting in the
bank, with a view to ascertain the iialure and extent of the deposits of Tertiary coal or Lignite
which tlie occurrence of numerous water-worn masses of that material in the bed ol the riviM- and on
its banks appeared to indicate. In its passage through the lihu' Hills of the Souris, the river has
excavated a ravine or valley between 4110 and 500 feet deep, inakiim a sudden turn from a due
easterly course to one almost northerly, and avoiding what apliears to be an ancient channel
but slighlly elevated above its present level. This old channel pursues a straight course to I'embina
River, with which, on the authority of half-lireeds familiar with the country, it is said to be
eoniieeted. 'I'he length of the Little Sonris, within Hrilisli tenitory, is 106 mile.s. A short distance
south of the boundary line it receives the Red Deer's Head River, a small stream about 18 feet
broad, within a few hundred yar<ls of its junction with the Souris.

WoODEI> .VNI) I'U.AMIIK LaNH.

The western and .uth-westcrn slopes of the Riding and Duck Mountains suppo''' lnuvy fnrcsts <jf
while spruce, birch, a.-;pen, and poplar. 'I'Uv trees are of a large size, anil often exceed 1^ and 2 feet
in diameter, with an 'vailable length of ."iO to 50 feet. On the summit plateau of the Riding
Mountain the white spruce is the largest tree ; here it attains dimensions, and is found in (piantitv
slilHcieiit to give t<i this region a great eeonomie v.diie. The wooded area over which timber
consisting of the tour kinds of trees euunu'rated, is found on the Riding and Duck Mountains, has a
length of 120 miles, wiili a breadth I'Xcieding .'SO miles. The .illlueiils of the .\ssiiiiiiboine will serve
during spring freshets to bear these valiialile forest produciiuiis to areas which will probablv lirst
attract settlement, and where they will be most reiiiiired.

In the valley of the Assinniboine is an e-:tensive ami valuable forest of oak, elm, ash, maple,
poplar, and aspen, with an average breadth of lour miles; its length is about 'M miles. The flats
and hill sides of the deep eroded valley through which this river (lows above I'rairie Portage sustain
a line forest, in which aspen, oak, birch, elm, and maple appear to prevail in numbers corresponding
with the order in which tliey are enumerated ; but this forest docs not extend beyond the excavated
valley of the river or its tributaries. All the allhients of the Assinniboine flow through deep ravines,
which they have cut in the great plain they drain ; tlie.se narrow, deep valleys are well clothed with
timber, consisting ehiilly of aspen and balsam poplar, but often varied with bottoms of oak, elm, ash,
and the ash-leaved maple. On the west siile of the ii'ain river, the valleys of the tributaries, such as
the Little Souris and the (iu'Appelle River, are timbere<l continuously for a distance of ;)0 to 70
miles from their outlets, and at intervals further up stream. On the (^uAppelle River goud timber
is fouii'l as far as the Mission ; but in progressing westward it is seen gradually to diminish lu size,
and finally to disappear altogether.

The Touchwooil Hill Range, together with small parallel ranges, such as the I'lieasant Muuutaiii
and the File Hill, averaging 20 miles in length by 10 in breadth, are iu great part covered witli uapen

E 4

llEPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

forest?, but the trees arc {rencrally email. At tlii' Moose Woods, on llie soulli brancli of the Saakal-
clicwHii, I'orosis of aspen l)ej;in to iipiiear: tlicycoiiiiniir with occisimial admixtiu'cs of hirch anil oak,
more rarely of oak and I'Ini, as lar as the Cirand I'orks; liere the sjirnee beeonus oiiniinon, and, with
aspens, oeenpics the exeiivated valley of the Main Saskatchewan for many miles. The hill-hank, with
the plateau on the south side of the river, for u dislanee of three or lour miles south, sustain the l)ank-
slan ]ilne, which disappe.o as the soil chaii<ies from a lifjlit sand to a rieli and deep vegetable tnoiild,
su|)poriin<5 detailud f,'j'ows of aspen and eUnups of willows.

On tlie Little Souris espteially in tlie neii{lihonrliood of the lilue Hills, tiie eountry is fertile and
beautiful, but the areas adapted lor settlement lose much of the value which would otherwise beloni;
to them from the absence of wood. West of the So-.iris i>i a lioimdie. s, treelcs-; prairie, so that in
crossing' Ironi I'cd Dcir s Head river to fort Kllice it was found necessar\ to carry wood for fuel for a
distance of tiO miles. This prairie extends to the South Hrancli and hi'yond it. .\t ."^and Hill Lake.
on the (^u'.V]ipelle, timber is .so scarce in the river valley and j'ullies Icailinn' to it, that wr were com-
])elli'(l to use the hois de vaelie for fuel. The fSouth JJranch, from the Klhow to the Moose Woods,
iliiws throujih a treeless rejfion, as far as relates to the prairie on eitlier side; hut in the rnvines
leadinj; to the river det.iclied croves of small timber occur. The houed.iry oi' the prairie counlrv,
jM'operly so called, may be rou;;lily shown by a line drawn from the preat bend of the Little .Siinris, or
Mouse Kivei-, to tlie (^u'.Appi'lIc Mission, and IVom the Mission to the .Moose \\'o(ids, on the f-'onlh
Uraneh. South and wist ol this irniit;inary line, the counlrv, as a whole, must bt'iankid as a level or
slii>hlly nndulalini;, treelr>s plain, wiih a lif;ht and sonielimis driftini; siiil, occasionally lilo«n up into
dunes, and not, in its pri'seiil ciindilion, liile(l for the permanent habiintion of eiviii^tt'd man ; tlic>
narrow valU'ys of the streams which drain it, such as I'lnni Creek. Moose .laws Creek, as «ell .-is
some low valleys of comparatively limited area beinj; exce|)ted. I'liere can be no doubt that, if the
nnnual lires which dev.istaie tla.-e prairies were to cease, trees wonld rapidly cover them in most
places. Lverywhere ymnifj aspiii and "illov.s sliow ihemsi'lves in urovis wlurc " liri- " has not '• run "
ibr two or three seasons. .\ li'w years ol' repose would convert vast w.isles. now treeless and banin,
into beautiful and fertile areas. Last and north of this dry prairie region tlure is a large expanse of
cultivable laud, which I now proceed to ilcscrlbe mure in detail.

Aiti'As iir loi! Si.iTi.i:.Mi;ST.
I'alky iif'l/ic Assiiinibutiu;

Issuing from the Duck Mountain are numerous streams which meander through a be.uuil'nl and
fertile country. 'J his area may be sai<l to commence at the 'I'wo Creeks, IK miles from Fort I'ell,-,
thence on to I'ine Creek, 1.") miles rnrlher. I'hi' ve.'clalion is every«lu're luxuriant anil beautiful,
from the great alnuul 'iiee ot' rose-bushes, vetches, and g:indy wild floweis of many -pi-cies. .Vl'ier
Jiussing I'iue Cri'ck the tr.ul to .'*hell Itiver pursues a eircnitoos roi!t<' through a eniiutry of iipi il
richness and II rlility. Shell Uivcr is !•_' uuli s from I'ine Creek, anil in its valley smidl nak .appear,
with balsam, [loplar, and .i-pen, covering a thick nudergowth of raspberry, currant, nis, -, and doi;-
wood. JJetween Shell Uiver and l!ii(i>tail Rivi-r, a di-tauee i)f ;j!> miles, the coinitry is Uvel and olteii
marshy, with numenms ponds and small lakes, but where the soil is dry ihe herbage is verv Inxuri.inl,
and grovi's of as|Hii, ;!l) liet high, vary the monotony of thi' plain.

JJetween thi' trail and the .\ssiimihiiiuc the soil is light, and almnst inv.uinlily iMs the river is
np|iroaclied it partake- o.'' a sandy and gravi-lly natui'e. with boulders strewn ovi'r its snrlac.'.

The flanks of the liidin.; ^'oulltaill are covered with a densi' growth of aspen and poplar, and
cut by luiniercjUo small rivtdeis. J'lom liird-iail Uivi r to the Litth' .Saskatchewan, or Itajiid Uivcr.
a distance oi'.'i:? miie-, tin' same kind of soil, timber, and vegetation i revail. .Vhonl 1(11) milr; finin
its mouth the Kapid Uiver is.«ocs from the densely wooli-d llank.> of the Hiding M(iiin:.ain tlucuigh a
narrow escavated valley lilled with balsaai pophu', and an undergrouth of iherry .'iiid dogwuod, with
roses, tonvolvnli. vetclies, jiiid various creepers. 'i'hi> slo])es are covered with poplar IM inihes in
dinmcter. De.-i'eiiding the v'w-r, groves of pojilar and spruce show themselves, with thick forests of
ns]>en and balsam |)oplar (oveiing the plateau on either hand. 'Ihe river is lure K) f et wide, with a
very rapid cnrriiit. lielore it inakc~ its easti'riy liend the ash-leavcd maple shows it^ell in grovis, mnl
on both sides i- uii open nndulitiiig country, attractive and lirlili, with detached cltnnp.s (jf voiiug
tn'cs .sp'inging up in all directidns. The region ilraiiu'il by the Kapiil Uivcr contnues beaiitilid
and rich uinil witliin •_'") inilis ol' the .V-sininhiiine, so that it may with proprii'ly he stale.l, that for a
distance of/.) miles this river meanders through a country admirably adapted lor .■■ettiement. I'ouds
and lakes are iHimiroiis, wild fowl in great lunnbers breed on their bordiMs, and the waters of the
Hapiil Uivcr idaniiul in (isli. Canoes and bateaux may descend it liom the point where the explora-
tion termimited to its nuiuth, a distance of \M) miles. It will prohably become important as a means
of conveying to the settlcnimts on the .\ssimiihoine rnil Ued Uiver su[)[]lies of lumber I'rcan its vallev
smd the Hiding MouiUain.

From the Uaiiid Uiver to White Mml Uiver the distance is ."J.") miles, mid the country eoniiiiues to
preserve the same general character with lespect to fertility and fitness fiir setllement which has now
been traced out Hir a space of 10 t mih' . \\ hite .Mud Uiver flows into Lake Maiiitohah, at its south-
western extreiiily. 'J his river mi waters ail extensive area of the ri( best pr.iirie laud, similar in all
respects to the \\ hite lIor>(! I'lains on the Assinniboiiie, or the rich wastes on Uiil Uiver. W idle .Mial
Uiver is coniieeted with I'rairie I'ortage by an excellent dry road, the crossing jilace heiiig abimt
18 miles fnnii the I'ortage. The river banks are well timbcrid with oak, elm, a.-li, maple, aspen, and
balsam ])oplar. It possesses valtinble fisheries, and eoimniinieates by an uninterrupted canoe naviga-
tion with Lake ,^L■lnitobah for a length olUII miles. The soil on its banks, and far on either side, is of
the finest (luality. At the mouth of the river i\ fishing establislimeiii, bus been maintained by the
people of the PorCage for several years.

f-kSI.

and
[ivcr.

iVcillI
U a

ill

-IS (.f

.itii a
, :>lli|
oiiiij;

iiililiil
loi- a

'olll'.-i

if 111.'
I,.ra-

lUlMllS

v.tllfy
llc.-i to

IlllW
hOUtll-

in all
Mii.l
about
n, and
avjpi-
', is of
jy tlic

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

The vnlley of La Iliviuiv Salo lias ii ^cnoral diivciidii paralli'l to tliat of tlio Assiiiniboiiic, and
about 10 miU'8 south of it. 'l"lio country bitwt'cu tlio t«o rivers is wi t and niai'sliy, wiili lar{{(! an an
covered with willow tliickots and ('luni|iM of sniall asp<'ii. Sunth of the valley of tlio (irst named river,
the priiirii- is nin^rnificcnt and not sur|iasscil by any area of i'(|iiiil cxlcnt on lied Itiver.

'I'lie uroa of tlie roj{i<ui well adapted for Mettlenieiit on the east and north of the Assinnilioinc, and
in the valley of I/i Kiviero Salei may be assumed fully e(|ual to ;i,.')()(l,()()() acres. In the valleys of
Mouse Kiver, the (Jii'Aiijiellc Itiver, and White .""land Ri\er, the area (»f land likely to invite settlement
does not exceed one million acres. The 1 ikes iu the valley of the (^u'.Viipello Kiver are important,
they abouiul in fish, ainonj; wliicli white fish are iiuiueroii-i, larfje in sine and of excellent (piality; tlie
grey and red suckcr.s, pike and pickerel, are alao abundant.

I '(//Ay iif till' Sitshulilinraii,

1. The country between the I.ninpy Hill of the Woods and I'ort a la C'orno, or the Nepowern
Mission, including' ihe valley of Lonj; Creek and the rej;iiui west of it, bounded by the .South ISranch
and the Main ISaskntcliewnn. This area may conlain about ()0l),()00 acres of land of the fir^at
(|ualily.

'J. The valley of I'arrot Itiver, and the eounlry included between it and the Main .Siskatehewaii,
bounded on the south by the Hireh Hill rnn/ie. 'I'liere is a narrow stripe on the ^ivat river, about
five miles broad, where the soil is light anil of an iiidilferent ([Uality. 'I'lie area of available arable
laud probably does not eNceed .'),0(m,(l(lll acres.

.'). The country about the Moose Woods on the Soulh liraiich.

4. 'I'lie 'rouchwood Hill ranj^e.

:,. 'Iho I'hcisaiit Hill and tlie Tile Hill.

The ajjureg.ili' urea of these fertile districts may be staled to exU'iid over .100,000 acres.

If we assume that the prairies of Ri'd Kiver and the Assiiiiiilniine east of I'lairie Portage, contain
an Available area of l,."i(UI,(l((() acres of fertile soil, the total i|iiaiility of aialile land included between
Red Kiver and the Moose Woods on ihe .Smith Itraiich of the .Saskiilclicwan will be as I'ollows:

AC Ills.

Red River and the A'^-iiiuiboine I'r.iiries ea>t of Prairie Portage - - l,;")Oll,000

Maslern water-shed of the .As-iunihoine anil I.a Riviere .Sale
Long Creek and the Forks of the .Saskatehewaii - > -

lietween ('arrot River and the Main .Sask.ilelieuan
'I'lie Touchwood Hill range, the Moose Woods, \-e., \e. -
Little Souris or Mouse Itiver, (Ju'.\[)pill(' Itiver, W liite S.iiid Itiver
The region about the head-waters of the .\i^iiiuiboiiie, iiieluiliiig 1
vallev of Swan River . . - . .

i},.'illl),000
(lOD.DIX)

.%lllll),OIII)
•VIO.OOO

1,000,1100

1,000,000

Total area of arable land of (ii-st ipialily - .... 1 1,100,000

or eleven million, one hnnibed thousand acres.

Of land lit lor gia/.iiig purports, the area is iiiucli more enii^iderable, and may wil'i projiriety be
assumed as fully eipial in extent to the above estimate of the area of arable l;iiid.

i'.ii.it oj' llic /{iiliiii/ mill Ducli Moiiiitiiiii.i.

In a former Report I have shown that the country east of llie Killing and Duck .Mountains when
t ikeii lis a whole will liirnish a very insignilieaut field for .^ettleinenl anil civili/ation. Where the
soil is dry, llie limestone rock apiirnaelies in general su near to the siirl'.ice, as to be expo-ed whenever
small trees are bloivn down or the soil Is penetrated to the depth of si\ or eight iiiehes. With respect
to the greater portion of llie area I visited on the -liores of Lake \Vimii[K'g, Lake ^^anitlll)all, the
Little S.iskalcliewan, .Moss Itiver, Daiipliin Lake, and St. Mirlin s I.tike, together with the region
between Lakes Winniprg and Manilobah, always excepting the sDiuherii shore of the latter lake, I
am 111' opinio I th'it ;♦ is not generally filU'il for selllemeiit. In my Report from Red River, dated
November Slli, I h;'ve descrilicd more al leiiglli the iiatui.il I'eiturcs of a large portion of this
region from praelical i..ioi inatioii obiaiiied during a journey on foot exceeding 100 miles in length,
from the siiini'iit of \\\v Riding Mountain to .Manitohah House, on Lake Manilobah.

(ir.oi.oGii .M. I'li.vrL'liKs.

During au exploration extomled over half a year, and embracing a very wide area of country,
numerous rock specimens and specimens of organic remains, have been collecled. Most of these were
brought lo t' n Red Kiver seltlemcnts at too lale a period to admit of their being taken to .St. Paul
before the spring of l."<.j!). liy far the larger poriion of the eolleclion I have made is still at Red Kiver.
1 shall, therefore, contine my.self at present to a very general oulline of the geological features of the
country.

The most striking peculiarity in the arrangement of the dillereiit formations, from Red River
to the Soiiih Uiaueii, and from the I'Jth parallel to the Main Saskatehewan, is their undisturbed
and liorizontiii comlition. With two or three exceptions to he noticed hereafter, no appearance
of local dislurl)ain,c was observed throughout the whole region traversed. The rocks dip,
generally with a very gentle inclination from tin' north-east to the ioiilli-wesl. Someliiiies it is not
only impossible to <let.-Ct any dip by the eye, but the level fails to show the smallc-t deviation from
perfect liorizontality. The result of ory careful levelling on the Little Souris failed in one instance
to show any dip. The .same observati <ii applies to some exposures on Lake AViimipcg and Lake
Manitoba!). Lake Winnipeg is excavated in Silurian forinationa; Lake Mnnitobuli and Winnipcgo-sis

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

partly in Silurimi and partly in rocks of Devonian age.
on tin' cast (■oa.>*t of Liiki- W'l:

* I

I'onsiU were collected in numerous localities
Winnipeg, anil un tliu itianda of Luke Maiiitobali and Winnipego-sis.
From tlic Saskatcliowan at tiio Cirand Uapidit to Uiul Itivcr, exposures of Silurian rocks are cverywheri-
niiiiKi'tMm on tlic west sliort-s of tlie lireat liake. About forty milea due south of Snake Island, in
Winnipejio-sis Lake, tiiere are exposures of a liglit asli-colored sliale, exactly similar, in its
lilliological aspcet, to liiose on tlic Little Soiiris, and a small tributary of the Rapid lliver. Tliey
occur ut un ultiliule of 100 to (!()() feet above Dauphin Lake. The country between those exposures
and Luke Maiiitobuli, as well as in a <lireetion south-east to Uod Uiver, is nearly horizontal, aiul all
roek exposures seen were in an undisturbed condition. The ash-coloured shale i^ undoubtedly of
Cretaceonx au'e, and is a eonlinuation of the horizontal beds on the Little Soinis, holding Inoceramui
in ji;reat abundance, and of large size.

On the Little Soiiri.-i llie Cretaceous rocks are exposed for a distance of .">() miles. They are loaded
with iiodnliK and eoncretions, holding abinidance of carbonate and oxide of iron. The Hlue Hills
south of the .Assinniboine are covered with the debris of this roek. It appears l!) feet below the
level (if the I'rairie, at the mouth of the lir«t of the two creeks below Fort Kllice, afHueiits of the
A>Hliinib<)ine, It is also seen on a small tributary of the Kapid Kiver, and in several places un the
QnWppelle, east of the Mission, and on the east think of the Riding Mountain. In a former report
I have nieiulrned that brine-yielding springs occi;'- from Swan River to La Rlvlfrre Sale, a distance
of 2;tO miles. W helher the salt-bearing roeks beloiif. to recognized members of Devonian age is a
((iiesliiiu vel undetermined; but as the whole of the 'issils which I have collected will be submitted,
whin iliey arrive, to Mr. Hillings, the palaionlologist i f the Cana<lian Oeological Survey, their precise
position "ill then be dclerndned. It is sullicicnt at jiresent to state that salt springs occur on the east
Hank of Dauphin Lake, within 10 miles of the outcrop of the Cretaceous rocks on the flanks of the
Hiding Mountain, which leads to the inference that the Carboniferous group is totally wanting in the
regi<Hi where it mifjht be supposed to exist, between Lakes Muuilobah and Wninipego-sis, and the
ranfie of high land forming the eastern water-shed of the Assinniboine.

On the Qu'Appelle, sixteen miles from the South Hranch of the Saskatchewan, a greenish coloured
arenaceous rock occurs, destitute of fossils, but intersected with veins ofseleiiite, and holding a large
nnnitur of concretionary miisses. Many of these concretions have fallen into the bed of the river, or
are exposed in its banks, ttliere the Qu'Appelle comes from the Lyebrow Hills and enters the Great
Vall( V. Many cmicrelions in the rock referred to were three, four, and five Icet in diameter, very
hard, and "hen broken with a sledge hammer, portions often "peeled" olflike the coats of an onion.
The selenite geneially occurs in fragmentary portions about six inches long, but the veins are easily
traced for many leet, most conimoidy in a vertical direction. In an admirable paper on the C'reta-
ceous strata of thi' United States, by the di»tiu::uished palujontologist of the New York Slate
Cieolotiical Survey, .lames ilall, Ks(|., refereiue is made to the report of Mr. Nicollet on the
Cretaceous formations (jf the upper .Missfinri. In section C of Mr. Nicollet's subdivision of the rocks
of thai region, the formation is describi'd a.s "a ferruginous sand of u yellowish colour, containing
*' masses resembling se|itaria and .seams of selenitc." On the South Hranch, a few miles norih-west
of the "River that turn.s," there is an extensive I'xposure of a yellowi.sh ferruginous sand, holding
seplaiia and coMcretioiis, with seams of selenite. The rock is Cretaceous, and I think it probable that
it Is identical with formation C of Mr. Nicollet. If so, it constitutes one of the uppermost niend)ers
of the Cretaceous system ; and the coal in situ, noticed in a tormer report us occurring about 80 miles
south-west of the (^u'Ap|)elle or Caliiiig Mission, will most probably he of Tertiary age. 1 think,
howevei-, that the fossils collected (Ui the Saskati lieivan, and ihroiigliont iln' entire region exjilored,
will be amply sullicient to establish the tine position of the rock loinialions over the grei.tcr part of
the ciiuolry visited, ft is sutheicnl fur present purposes to mention that the addition which has been
iiiaile til our geological knowledge of this coinitry may be thus briefly stated: —

I. 'I'iie eastern Hanks of the Hiding and Duck Mountains as liir as the I'usquia Hill form the
present easieru limits of the Cretaceous rocks of this region.

'J. 1 he Cretaceous rucks occupy the whole of the country from the Riding and Duck Mountains
and I'asijuia Hill to the South Hranch of the Saskatchewan.

;). The Cretaceous rocks are seen in situ, undisturbed and nearly horizontal, at an altitude
not exceeding -lOO to (iOO* feet above rock of Devonian age, recognized in situ 30 miles to the
east.

4. Hi'ine s|; ings, .similar in all respects to the brine springs issuing from Devonian rocks in situ,
occur "ithin lit miles east and north-east of the outcrop of the Cretacccms rocks on the east flank of
the Riding Mouiitain.

5. The liiiling .Mountain in its former extension probably covered the area now occupied by the
great lakes, from which it has been removed by denudation,

fi. The Cretaceous rocks probably repose on the brine- bearing rocks of Devonian age on the flanks
and east of the Hiding .Mountain, and as far north as the I'a^qina Hill.

7. It is not probable that any outcrop of the Carboniferous rocks will be fouiul to exist in the
eastern jiarl of the valley of the .Saskatchewan. The lignite or coal of the oouris appears to be of
Tertiary age.

With reference to the Lignite on the Little Souris, it may be here stated that a very careful search
was made for it in position, but without success. A cutting into the bank just above where a fine
exposure of Cretaceous rocks occurs, holding Inoceramus from four to nine inches in length, showed

• Tlif s.ilioii exjioscil un llie llaiiks ut the llidiii); Mountain «a» on llic siilu of n ((ully '2m> fivt ileep. The cxpoiiire was trareU
from lop to Ijoiioin. I'lic botluin of Uiv gull}) in aliout 'luo I'vtil akuvu Uuuiiliin Lakv, aiul 'IW ftet above tlie lut eipoiure of limt-
stuiu' ^vLM) on Mos^ ItiviT.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

no le»8 thnn five di«tinct beaches, in t'ocli of wliicli numerous water-worn masses of Lignite, frnm
three inches to one foot in diameter, were discovered. In several phices the acciunuliition of lifjnito
bouhlers was very extensive, and niinlit become of economic value. Hut in no instance was tlic
Lignite observed in place on the Souris. The Imulders were genornlly found in a higlily ferru^jnous
sand J when burned they emitted a wtrong Bulplnnous odour, showing the presence of iron pyrites.
The "grain" of tiie wood could he perceived with the grealeat ease when large masses were broken
open, and not unfrequently particles and strings of amber were found in the interior. The specimens
I have brought to Toronto have cracKed on becoming dry in many directioux ; they will, however,
serve to illustrate the character of the singular accumulation of boulder lignite in the valley of the
Little Souris.

Until 1 have had an opportunity ol submitting my collection of fossils, illustrating the vonk
formations of the country,' to Sir William Logan and Mr. Billirig.s, I refrain from giving expression
io any furlher views respecting the geologici.l features of the region explored. I think L am in
possession of sufficient materiaLs upon which a tolerably accurate geological map of the country
from the (treat Lakes to the South Uraiich of the Saskatchewan can be construclecl. Hut us this
is a work involving much cautious inquiry, and the co-operation of gcjitlemeu tliorouglily
acquainted with the fossils of the secondary rocks, some months must elapse before a geological map
can be prepared.

Climate.

In a comminiicntion, dated 2nd February. "On the Qu'Appellc or Calling Hivcr Valley," I intro-
duced some remarks on the climate or rather seasons of the Stmlli Hrancli, in comparison with the
North Branch at the Forks and Fort a la Corne, The impression conveyed by the progress of vege-
tation in these far Me[)arated parts of the country led to the opinion that the period of flowering
and iif ripening fruit on the South Hranch at the ICIIiow was two or three wcekn in lulviiiK'e ol
similar periods on the North Itranch. 'i'lie vegetable productions in the gardens attached to Fort lY
lii t'orne, with a brief notice of tin' periods of planting and gathering, will sliow iliiit the cliiiiiilic
adaptation of the North iSranch near the (iraiul Forks is not of a eliaraeler unlavourable to agiicul-
tiu'al operations. ,\s this subject is one of great importance I have ventured to introduce some
ejttracts from the journal of the I'ort, which are both interesting and valuable.

On the 7th .Vugiist, in the garden attached to i'ort a la Corne (about IH miles below ilic (iraud
Forks), potatoes were in (lower, and the tubers of cirly varieties of the size ot hen's eggs. I'ahoagcs
were well formed, licet loots and carrots quite ready for the kitchen. Indian corn in silk, from
seed which Wiis grown in the g.irden last year. I'cas ready t'ov gathering.

. No disease has yet been noticed in the potatoes; and the grasshoppers, that scourge of the countiy
south of the Touchwood Hills, have not made their appearance at Fort a la Corne.

In the garden attached to the Nepoween Mission, under the charge of the KeV. Henry Hudd
(a zealous missionary of native origin), all the vegetables gave jjromise of fair and reniunerativc
crops. The puiutoc.s wen' superb; turnips, both Swedes and white, remarkably fine ; Indian corn,
from seed grown on tin: spot la»t year, in i-ilk ; wheal rather too runk in the stalk — it measured
a ft. .'J in. in length to the ear, which was well formed but green, and it seemed iloubtful whether
it would ripen. .Mr Uiiild speaks very favourably of the soil, climate, and extent of land available
for agricultural purposes. Holh the mission and the fort are situated within the excavated valley
of the Saskatchewan, and are not, in my opinion, so fiTourably placed for farming purposes as they
might be in the valley of JiOng ("reek. The river, however, is the great highway, and during the
season, alfords an abundant supply of sturgeon,

Extracts frnm t/ir Journal tit Fort «) In Conn; Sashatchewun River. Lat, 53° 20' ,• limff. 1 0-1° 30' If,

1851.
Oct. 25. Ice made its appearance in the river.

18,52.

April 8. Ico solid for the season of th.i year.

„ 12, Ice started.

,, 13. lee drifting and Iwlging on the banks,

„ 21. Ice drifting and disappearing along the banks,

„ 22. (tardcn operations commenced.
May 14. First sturgeon caught.

„ 24. Planted iwtatocs.
Oct. 11. Finished taking up potatoes.

„ 25. Fishing season ended.

„ 26. Snow.
Nov. 3. Ice floating in the river.

1854.
April 14. River broke up. On the 15th nearly clear of ice.

„ 28. Garden operations commenced.
May 1. First sturgeon caught.
„ 8. I'reparing potatoe field. ,
„ 13. Potatoe planting.

F 2

IlKl'OUTS Ol' TIIK ASSINNIDOINE AND

Oct. '-'. (iiitlii'l'i'tl Imriips.
,, I'l. 'I'akiiif; ii|i (miioIc
„ 10. t'limiiii'iuTil lakiiiK ii|) |>(»laliii'» Hi lliu iiiUniuii (100 ki'gp»), tiiriiipn, citrroU,

ciiWliiiUin — laiiio 1111(1 ixihhI.
„ II, t iibbiif,""* t.ikcil ii|).

May 2i. 'riinii|)< suwii,

tji'jit. la. Iliinl l'n>M oviT iiif,'1il.

„ '-'7. 'J'ook ii|i |iuliil()i> -|)imi' crop, imii'li ilrsliojod In' >{nib.s,

., '.".I. Ilarilliosi, A liltli! ici- sirii al llic gull's.

Oct. I. Women (lijiLiiiij; jiotatoos.

„ *J. Do. do. do.

„ i'). 'raking up lurnip.i.

„ 'J'J. let' on till' f<ly('.-< of rivrr.

I8,j(!.

Aiirii "J. Hard iVosI la^t ni|,'lit,

„ 4. Walcf making; it-* appoariiiico on llio i'd;,'t'H of llu' liviT.

7. I'ni/c liai'd l.i>l nif,'lit.

„ )>. Ici' niadi' a stall.

., 17. Ice (liil'liML;.

„ '_M I'all ol' .^iiDM dining' tin- iiij;lil.

„ 2;l. NcK Sfl. ( )ii(' .■'tiir;,'ion iaui,'lit.

„ '.'5. Hani rio>t.

May '_'. (iai'drii op('i'ntiun« coiiiini'nccd.

„ lt». Sionii i.r .-now.

,, I'J. I'laiiti'd polatoi'J.

II. .'>oHcd Swcdi'-<.

.Si'pt. I(i. .S'' ;lit I'l list last ni(ilit.

Oct. -. ( iiiiii'iiccd lakini; up pointocs.

„ •.'•-'. hard lnnl iluiint; iiij,'lil.

„ '2:\. Severe lio.sl diiiiiii; iiipjiit.

,, "Jfi. .'^iiDH ill niiilit.

Nov. II. Itivcl- t'lill of ic.-.

ls.-,7.

April !>. Water appcaiini; on llie cd;,'( .< of tin' river. Snow sliooa ic(ii;:ri'd t'ViiywIieif.

I(i. Ice slant cl to-ilay.

,, •Jl. Snowed willioiit ililei inis'.sion tlie wliole day.

May .•). lev drirtiiii( id! Im«I iii^lil.

„ ."i. Uiver rnii ol' ice.

I'J. I'hiiiUd piilMlne- and on:oii~.

„ "Jn. I'l.intiiij; piilaloes 'I'lnic stni-i;eoii.s eaii;;!!!.

.June '2. Hard Iro.-l la^l iii;;lil.

., ao, .*>iarvalioii is siar.ng llie peo|ile in llie I'.iCe. Have caiiglit no .stnifTcon for sonic

time back.*
1 .".'its.

-Vpril'Ji. lee dril'lin;,'. I.arf;e (jiiaiililie~ of ice on liie lianku.

.May 1. C'leariii;; up of norlli fiardeii.

,, 7. l'reparin;i poNitoe j;round. lirst sluij^eon caiij^iil.

,, I'J. I'lanted potatoes.

„ 17. Sli<,dit liid of siiuw.

li*. W ind Iroin N. and cold. Tliink wo are K'lii't.' to Inive u second winter.

In llif (ieneral Uepiirt of tlie Kxpcdillon, wliicli is already well adviincud, I sliidl liave nil oppor-
tunity of deffcril)iii|^ not only lliu to|Miniapliieal and f^eologieal fealiireM of tlie country in detail, but
also the liabils and ciistiiins of tlie liiilian tribes witb vvlioni wc eanie in contact ; tlie condition and
jirosppcts of llie .Mis-iiniary ."^talion.s; ilie lorlfl and I'osts of llio Hon. lIiidt<on's liny Company; tlio
cliarackr and iiilluence ol llic fiir trade; ibe liistory and profriess of llie devastntiiii^ liost of gvasu-
liojipers, wliieli we traced for iiioic than 0(1(1 miles in tlie prairie rigion, &e., i^c., N.c.

1 liave niiicli iileasuie in liavinif lliis opiioriuiiity of expressing my warmest thanks to Sir (ieorge
Sinip-ion, not only for the letters of iulnxliiclion with wliicli lie favoured me to the ofHcers of the
Hon. ilndson's Hay C'oni|iaiiy'.s service in Uiipcrl'd Land, but al^iu for bis personul ell'orts wl.cn at
Fort (Jarry, to laeililale the proj;ress ol' the expedition by every means in Ijis pov\er. The assistanco
rendered by Sir (Iioige .Simpsuii was of the greatest use to me, and the kind and courteous manner
in winch it was granted increases my indebiedncss to biin.

From the otfiieis of the Hon, ilndson's Hay Company's service in charge of the din'oreiit posts I

* .\ i-<ininiiiii rccort) in tlii' jutimaU lU the tlill'irLiit pu^ti, in KuperrH Lund, Tliu^i'dtisi' tnu^t be U'fiTri'tl uj llicjiabits uf ll<i- |iio]>lc,
tlivir uciupalion, &(',, nnd nut to tlii> riipiibilitie^ urtlii> cuuntry, — 11. V. II.

SASKATCIIKWAN KXl'LORINO EXPEDITION.

rrccivccl, uitliDiit aiiv exciprKiii, kind iillnitidn niid viilimlili' iishLiIhiici'. To Mr. MrTiivisli, Cliluf
Fiii'tiii', ill cliiii'^c III' I'ort (iarn' ; Mr. l.iHic, nl' llio Stoiii' I'lut ; Mr. Siiiclnlr, (liiif Faclnr, (licii in
I'.liiii'^c of l-'iii't Alrxaiiiirr ; Mi'. McKiii/.ii', iil' Maiiiloliali iliiiisc; Mr. .MuKcir/io, of IViiiliiiiii; lla-
j^ciilli'iiii'ii ill li'iiiiioiiii V rlmi(;i' lit till' 'I'mii'liwooil Hill.<, Fort Kllici', Fort I'cllvi Fort li la (-'onif,
mill (Niiiilirrliiiiil lloii»'; I lii'ir lo i'\|ii't'H» liiY ^'raliTiil lliaiiks. I yliall olru'wluiii' liiivc nil o|i{iortiiiiity
III' rcc'oi'iliii^ many rriciull)' actn, wliiuli wimid lit- out ul']iluri- in a iiruliminary rr|iiirl,

'I'lio a^i^rcgato diatancL' tnivi'lled liy tliu F.x|ii'ditiuu in tlic rc((ion inarki'd out Ibr exploration, wa»

114 I'ulloHa : —

On lioiM'l.ack .--... o !li)-_> inili'H.

In Miiiill caniu's , ■ - - - - l,'Jtl;3 ,,

III Iriiniilrrs' Ixiiit ..... (IM „

( >u fool - - - • • -111,,

A),'Ki'ij!ati' dintaiicu

4,4.'il iiiilc'8.

In joiniiryiiiir lo Unl Uivrr, wlinc ilio ixplonilion ronimrnci'd, llic roiilo followi'd was liy tlie
(ireal Wc^lrni Kiilway to Di'tioit ; lliriur liy stcainlioat In tlir (iniiid l'orliij;i', Lakii Siipi'rior.
Friiiii (iiaiid I'ortiiui' tlic voyii'^u to Kcd Uivcr was iiiailt- in north ciiiouit, a disianuL' of <iU(i inik's.
Kitniiiiiii;, wi' iravfllcil in dof; i ariolis I'loin I'ort (iiirry to Crow U'iii^, a di^tant'c of 410 inilus, by
llii' winlir road; lliciirc I'v st^igr to liii Crossf, on tlie Mia.sissippi ; and from La Crosse to Torunlo
liy rail.

I linvo, \i'.
(SisnLd) IIKNUY V. HIND.

'I'lif lion. Cliarlis Allryn, M.IM'., i'rovim.ial Si'crcliiry,

'I'aiii.k (.liowliig tlie DiMFNSioNS nf V.\i.i,i;vs ami Ki\kiis.

N IKK' mill t'l ii-e.

Wi.llli.

Ili'il Kivir, MiililU' S<'llli'innil
.\sHillluliiiiiii> l(i\(r, I.iiiU'% I'lisl

,, I'niirii- I'lnliij-i-

., v.. 'iv, .liimli.iii «illi I.illlo .SiMirin
Uii.r . ■ . .

\aiii'v, at Toil i;ii:.i-

Kill.

4N0
IJO

•J,.i".()

•.':lo

lin.noi'li.

IVil.

Itiv.r ....
l.iltli' Sjiirls Uivvr, nl ilH mouth

Villvv, nl llark-l'.il,(ir Miis^il Criik

■ ii.nr Sn.il.i> Kill

„ lliv.r, HI .S.I ill' Hill -
( jii'A]>|>i'll(' N'.tlli'Vi 7')iiiilt.i I'ruiii .\ssinilu>iiii>
„ ■ III M-siiin
„ iit'iir tirinil l-'iirkn
„ „ r lilt I'liil III' .SaikIIuII I.nkc

„ „ I'i^Iit itiili s t'rutti »i">t III' .Sattilliill I 1 Itt.VOcll.

l.,iki'.
„ „ I'l'lwi'i'ii lli'it^lit of I.uml mid .Sis. I 7:1 I'liiiins

kiiti'lii'it-iiti, , I'l'i't.

„ UillT, at it., iiiiilltli - - - I KS

„ ,, t«ii mills frum niimlli - • ; t>*'>

„ „ at .Mission . - • I -IS

S.lskalilK'wan, .Siiitli lliaiiili, ('JM tiiili's I'mni (Jii'.\|i- 1,818

liillf Valli-yV

- I'Jl

- i 8,ll|fi

. i .'1:10

. I liio

. \ 7S ilMiiin

. ' I ln.'.'Oi'h.
I liii.:i(ii'li.

- I 111. ."i cll.

IVliiii ItiviT, Furt ii III ('urtiu
lU'Hr 'JV:iring Uiu'r •

!lfi7
ilHll

Ui'|>tli.

Unli)

Itcniark'*.

Ori'alml. .Mi'ali.

C'lirriMii.

I'Vil. 1 Fill.

iiiil.p.lir.

18 1 1'.'

"•(i 1 (>

■t

. 1 .

'.'

Falls 1 'IH \\v\ (UT iimU- *

. ' »:\

'rtio (li'iitli lii'lnw iIk' piiiirii' fiiiplit's to

1'.' 1 H-e

1 1

Ilk' N.iiili ll.ihk of till- livir uiity,

. ' :'lo

till- ^Il1|■^• uit Soutli I'liii;; viry
gratluul.

II'M 8

;i'(; -j'l

(.0

'I'liis (li'ptli np)irii''i In the m>st sidf

(iiily. iiiNt hiilo ii>>vt VL'i'V i^iiidiiiilly

- ' ;ilo

to iihiMit viitiiL- ti'\el. I.i^iiiiu ■!.>'

- 'JM

ubuvc river.

. 'J'iO

- no

- , 1.10

- no

I'J 8

7'(; fi*i:
i; :i-ii

li
1

I'lilU (t'iKi fi'i'H? inclii's) per mile.*

III 'l-ii

•-•i

Cliaiiiuts un liutli suit's i; tn lo iVvi

'JO 11

•i-i i 'JO

I'atUo* Iti ft'vt (J mcli(.'H) per miK'.*

♦ Fall ilcttTiiiint'd by tin- U'Vil.

P 3

4fi

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

r.KNKHAL REPORT AND NARRATIVE OF THE EXI-.EDITION

CHAI'TKIl I,

Fonr oAiinv to thf mouth of

I'llE I,1TTI,E SOUUIS IirVEn. — THF.
Til TIIK IIDtiNDAIlV tINI-:.

MOCTH OF TIIK LITTLF SOUHIS

The Start — Siipplioi — T'rnirir Itidgcd — Tlic Rip llidpr — Piffuon irnp» — nion;,

KHloriiciMicr — Clmriidpr nf llip llig Hicljn- — Tln> AiisiiiMihiiiiu' — (innslioppcrs — Ojihwny KiR'unipnictit —
t...i..i i'....i._ i»_. .:_:.. II I'liiv u II...., Ti I..- ui„-»... /»j:» — '■'' ■• » ••' <

(fi-on Trnpi — Stony Moiintnin — Birdi — Sniino

rniorrifi'ru T — v ruiriu-iiT in iiii" |M^ i\iu;;i- — iii»- .inn hniln» — (■rilSAlloppfm — Ojihwny Kni-'rtniptlU'M"

Arc'lnli'iiiim ('(xliniiir — I'niirii' l'iiii»j;i' — ('lilt S»iill(i\v — ThuiiiliT Siornin — Ojihwayn — Thr Had Wood
A>sliiiiili<>iii(' I'liri'st — Kivt'i' — liuliliitt — Sandy ilill< id' llir Assiiiiilhiiiiie — I.iilltiidi'— Diiiuimioii* id' Viillt'
— Varialiiiii id' Cniiipass— Sand Diiiir* — Vspi'rt iii I'miiilry — Hail Storm — Ualm Spniir — I'liif I'rn k -
The I.illii' Siiiirii — (ini««li"ppi'r« — ImsIi — Smiix — Cmaifuus llin'k»--llliir IlillH — IViidmia Uinr — Maiktl
"aiiir — I'rairif I'irts — lliiriz ailal K'liks— liuiii'raiiiaii — (iin Idcr Kii ■ : - :- •

'111
l.akii Vast I'raiiir — I'rairif I-'irts -llnriz anal Kciiks — InoiiTaiiiaii— (iiii Idir Kiisi' — I.iniiitr- -Aiit'iriit

l.akr liiMclus — Sanil Diini Oak I.akr— S iiiri^ Sand lldls — Nit;lilha«k~-M p Inm Orr -I'lii'ids in I S.j'J

. — (iia-.vliiippi'ii. Inliiiitc iiialtitadi' cd'- - .\pprarain r id' tlir Sky, iil' j'rairii'- laltlr Siniris Vallry -Trait* —
'I'lMtlr Miinniaiii— SiiMix — Cliaraiiir id' I'rairir — Simris l.aki'H — HuuliU'rn — Miiiiilaii Nillagc (liaraclir id'

thf Siairi* siMilli iil' tlir Ullli I'aralli'l.

Oil llir iiiiirniiii; iil' the 1 Itli .Inm- IS."iS, tlif lialt'-l)roi;(ls c'ii>{iii;i'cl Cor the cx|)('(litii)ti iiitn tlir
I'rairn' rininlry »i>t id' itnl Itivcr, as^iiiihleil al mir liinpnrary (lliartrrs in the scttlcmfiit, niul l)c;;aii
lit iMii'r til IiikI livi' Kill Uivcr I'arls iiml a «ai;niiii id .Aiiirriraii liiaiilllintiiri', «i|li two ciiiii"'* I'aiiip
<'i| III p >i;i', in^tniiiii'nts, anil pi'in i<iiiiiri liir a tlirt't' iiniiiths join i icy At iiiiini tlir st irt uai iiiailr, anil the
train prm re did tn Kurt (iany,* a distaiici' id" uinlit iiiili>, to lako in a .•<iipply of flour ami pcaiiraiii.
\\i' laiiipi'il alioiit 111!! a unit' Iroin llii' I'lirt, anil took an iiivi'iiliiry id' oar l>ai:^iL;r, anil iiiaiji' >iii li
r(>iinlatioii> ami arraiijrimiit-i as* aii' ron-ali roil ni'd".siiry at llir coniini'iiritiu'iil ol ii loiif; jniirncy
lliioiijli a I'oiinlrv parllv iiili iliilril liy lio^til< lillius ul' liniiaiiK, and not aiwa^ts aH'orilini; a siippiv id'
(nod rVfii to -kilhil liiiiili'r-'

Till' wliole piriy coiisi-.ti'il ol'tliirlrcn imiiviiliials lu'.iidi's mysill, imincly : Mr. Diikiiixiii, Mirvcvor,
Mr. I li'iniiij;, ii'.Mi-taiit -nrvi'vor, Mr. Iliiiii', pliotojiriipir anil as«i,ianl Miirvi'vor, six Cici' half lirniis,
a iialivi' id lull Uivi'r id Siotili ilisi'int, om- lilackliiot liall-hiri'il, oni' Ojiliwav liiill'-liiii'il, iiinl oiii'
I'rt'iii li (aninlian. Our provi.iioiis consi.'.trii of oiir ilioiiiand poninls ol" lloiir, four liiimlii'il poMiiils
ol pi'iiiiian, onu tlioiisanil rations ol Criinian vc^i'tiilili'^, u slii'ip, tlirt't' liaiii>, and Ira lor lliri'r
inonlli*, Willi a t'lU Inxiirios, muIi as piikii'-i, rliiu'ol itr, a lmIIoii ol purl \viin', ami uiir gallon of
liraiidv I'.ai'li lart ua^ loiiii'ii vtilli alionl l.'illlli-. uiihIiI. ami llio ua<.'i^oii uith lioiiliit- lliat ainoiint.
Till' riiiioi ~ id' liirrli liark, 18 Icit lonp:, wtiHlu'd l.")(lll)!.. earli. At tlir Wliili' IIoim' I'jaiiir, -J'.' niilr.i
triiiii l''irl tiariy. «(• pnicha-i'il an ox to siTve as a (/cr/i/cr rr.wrMn casi' wi- dliiinlil not iiii'fl witli
liiillalo; ami at I'mirir i'i)rlai;i', tin' list si'tlli'ini'iit on tlif As^iliiiilioine, I ('ni;a;>;eii tlii' Hi'rviri's id' an
old liiiiiti'r id' Cnr orii;iii. who had lii'cn I'roiii liinyiiiitli faniiiinr will) liuiiiui habits ami -trala^rnis.
'I'hm aildilioii iiuri'aMii the parly ami inalcrial, liidiin- we lel't the Uisl settiiiiieiit, to liriiiii nien.
liltein liiT'-cs, six iiid l{iver cans, one waj^non, ami one ox.

liiaviiii; our caiiip early on the miiriiin}; of the l,")ili, we aecertaincil by levellini; tlie altilmie ol' on
anrient lake ridjie, mar to St. .lames' Cliiiircii, to lie eleven feet above tiie prairie nt I'ort (Jarry, and
about two mile-. I'loiii it These ridges are roniinoii in the prairies ol Red River, and do not
iiceessarilv point to an ancient lake niarijiii. It is probable that most of them were forined tinder
water. Tlnv may be traced for many niik's, but are sometimes lost in tlie general rise of the prairie.

The aiK'iiiit boundaries of I<ake Wiiinipeif, when its waters were about !)0 feel above their present
altitu le and oeiiipieil the whole of the louiitry now rovered by lakes Manitobab, Winiiipe{;ii-sis,
and \\innipe^. with the inlervenin;.; low land, is well defined in one direction by the Hi^ Itidj^e, which
on one side or another ol lied River is easily traced for mure than three biindred miles ; it is shown on
the map. On arrivin;,' at St. .lames' ('liiireh, we se])arated into two divisions, Mr. Memingand
Mr. lliine with the earls and wafrjron, proceeding to Lane's I'ost on the Assinniboine, 'J2 miles from
Fort (iarry. while .Mr. Dickinson and myself, with two half-breeds, struck in a north-westerly
direciioii across the prairie to .Stony .Mountain, and thence to the lliff Ridge, having arranged to
meet at I'rairie I'orta^e.

In a wheal field opposite .St. .lames' t'hnrch were several pigeon traps, constructed of nets '20 feet
\on<^ by !."» broad, stretched upon a frame; one .side was prop|K"d up by a pole 8 feet long, so that
when the birds passed under the net to pick up the grain strewed beneath, a man or boy concealed by

• " Till- Ill.MllDflil

thl- S.iii .iiiii twn hv I

.' iiliM'iViiti(iii>i jit l'|i[HT Fort Unrry, uf llu* moiitlt ill' tin- A^sinniltiiine, fnr Ijitiliiili-, llirr
(l.iris, i^ivt- I r thf lirittiilf -i:*' 'i I '..'•t". .Mr. C.iltiimii, who utl^ Httiiilii'd to .M^tjor I.i

mnilc it -I') ..;!' :J.'.", hut iivfonlin.^ ii ri'Cinil in tin- po'Si-ssion nf out' of Ilii- olficern of tile fort, Lffroy plai-iHl it ill latituili* 49° 58'.'

t*wt'n>i tifilo^ii-al .Suru'v of Wi^c. -in. lon'a, anil Miilni'sota, p. ISO.

ini'rtilinn Ity iillitiiili> of

i'»livilitnm 111 IK'ja,

SASKATCHEWAN KXI'I,()UfN({ KXPKDniON.

the fence williHrcw tliu prnp by ii nlriiii; iittiirliid to it, iiiiil tin liilliiii^ net Donii'tinit"* Nirri'tiMlril fti
oiiliii|i|iiiiK II '('Die iir nmri' ot |ii;{it)iiii jit dmc liill. Nrai- llic iirl schit doiiil tri'rt iiii' |iliiiTil lor tim
piui'iiiiH 111 |»'rt'li nil, mill NDtmiiinrM miiHi'd IiImIm iir» iimd hh ilcciiyt to iitliiicl jiiii-iiii^r llm li<

III piii'Hiiiiiu oill' colirsr to Stiiiiy iMoiiillillll wt' <>ll(l('iivoliri'(l to loll<i» lln' rlilffr liilinr iiIIikIimI In,
lull iilliT Inu'iiiK it for mivciitl milca it lu'tiiiin! iiiipcrrrplilily liiinilt'il willi llu- IfVrl piiiiric. Si'Viiiii
ridjii'H wuro ciomii'iI iil'lor we lost tlw (iim, hut in all ni.xnH lliry tlicil iiwiiy iilit'i- liaviiit{ pn-trrvr<| ijmir
ruiiiult'il loriii lor two or tliri'i* iiiIIi'h. Sloiiy iMoiiiitiiiii i^ a liiiu'stDiiu itiaiid ol '>>liiiiaii ii}(i' c?)*
hikviii^ uHcapcii till' (li'iiiidini; liirci's wliloh cxcavatrd Iti'd Itivrr vallfV. It Is aliniil Iniii' iiiiltM ill
cii<llilit'nirilri', ils liij{lH'iit point In (ili (ict ahove tin- prairie level. Ilorizorilal layelH ol liiiie^ione,
lioidiii){ very lew and olineiiio I'od^iln, projeet on Iim wenler^i clill'like sidin, Iih eanlerii side i» neiilly
KJopin^', ami Moiiie leii I'eet Iroin llie.Niiinniit, tliu reniaiiit of an am i> nl lake lieaeli is well pitsuivid.
Viewed t'roiii a ilinlance, Sionv Mountain leiiiiiiei) littlu ell<)rl ol tlie iina^ination to recall tlie turn-
when ill)! HJialliuv waters of a roiiiier exleiioion ol' Luke Winnipeg wnslied the lieaili on its II. ink, or
threw up as ihey niiidualiy receded, ridye alter ri(lj<e over ilx lend Moor, wliere now are to lie liniliil
wiJo and lieaiitirnl praii ies, covered with a rich prol'uoion ol' lon)( ^rnm*.

Leaving the Miony Moiiiitaiii, <mr cuiirxo lay wcslerly, llirou:ih a wet prairie to the Hi^ llid^(>.
Oriiy craiie^, ducks and plover were nnnieroint on the marsliy tracts, and in eveiy lillle hliill* of
aspen or willow, ihi^ liemilirii! rii'e liinis wen- seen or heard. Where we camped on liu' i i|;;e iit' a lake
near tin- foot ol' the lii^ llid){e, liiitern ;ra( kle, and sevuriii vurielies of duck tiew lo ami fro in
alarm at our inviisioii of llieir relrealx. On the Hank of the Hi^ llidi;is the Cinnainon or aoliiaiy
thrush was nuticed ; but iiinHt coninioii of all was lliu tyrant llycilelier, who umleavonri'd lo hold
umliiiputed Hway over the hlulf he hail Helected a.s his lionii'. Near and wvM of Stony Mountain
many small harren areas o<'cnr, covered with a saliiio etilorescencc. Tlii'V may he Iracid lo the
As^iniiihoine and licyonil that river in a direction nearly due hoiiiIi to La Itiviere Sale, and the 4!>tli
parallel, Tlieiie miline deponits are important, as they in all prolialiilily serve, as will he shown
iiercalter, lo denote the preneiice of salt lieariiij; rocks hcnc.itli llieiii, similiar lo those from wliieh
the salt spring!) of Swan Kiver, Manitohah Lake, and M Itiviere S,de issue.

Karly on tlie inornin;,' of the I7lli, we asct ndi d the Hij{ Uidj^e. lis elevation ahove the prairie in
ahont liO feet; on ils south side it slopes i^etilly to iho prairie Icvi I, on its north side i. a plateau well
wooded with a>pen». The view from ils summit extemU far and wide over the Assinnilioine prairies.
On the south flank, and skirting ils ha.sc, are <^rovcs of axpcii and li.dsam poplar, with scallered oak
trees and willow hushes. I he pasturaye in tlic> open t;lii(les is of the lii^l ipiality. I'lii! ridne \»
tpiilc level and ahout HO to 100 leet hrnad, destitiile cd' tree-, sli/^hlly arclie<l and ( ompo-ed ol gravel,
roriniui; an excellent road, lleii' ami there it is cut \ty rivulets, drainini; the marshes in the I'l.iteau
on ilH iiorlhtrn side. .\b it ap|iroaclies I'rairie l'oit.i;.'e, its apparent elevatiai diininishes, until at the
l'orla^;i' lliveril is no louf^cr disceriiilde. We traced it fur a ilisiaiici'of 70 miles It will he incniioiietl
fiiither on, that llim rid^e or one formed at the same period, is a<;aiu seen wi'st (d' Maniiohali Like,
near the Hudson Hay (oinp.iny's posi, .M.oiilo'i.di IIoum'. It couiiiines lo preserve tlure the same
cliaractel'H id' liori/onlality, iiiiifMrm outline, (rr.ivt lly format on and adinirahle siiilihiliiy for the
purpo-es o( a rnud '*hich have been nolicid in coiiiie\ion with its exlen-ion inu'lli of the .\s>iiuiil)oiiic
and ea-t of Ited Itivii. I'or iii.iny miles ties fur a railway iiii:.ilit lie laid upon it without a jiehhlo
liiiiifT removed, and llie only breaks in it.s eontiniiiiy occur where streams Ironi the I'laliau ami
hii'lier grounds in the rear have forced a pas^i^e iliroii^h it. Il follow^, howevir, the south and
wentirn contour of Lakes Winnipeg and Manitohah, and pas-cs t!iroii;.di a coniitry iioi likily l.i bn
lirKt s(deeled by a laru'e boily of settlers. It is imporlani, in so lar tliat il liinii-' the boiiiid.iry nf find
of the lirst i|n.ilily, which oiciipie» the low I'raine \ alley- ol tl e .\ssiniiiboine and Ued lliver.
Sonuihii;;i< in Like M.iiiiiobali showed siieh a nniforni depth of lii/litcen feet for a di^Iai.ce e\eeediii<r
HO miles aloiii; its sonlh-caslcrii eoasi, that if ils bi'd were esposed, il is probable that il would, in
process ol time, al-o Ik come a rich and exteiisivi' prairii' comiiry. "iih its present lieaeh. <bslincily
visible as it- old boundary. Imleiil, the aspect ot this drained eoiintrv lor several miles I evond the
liii; l{id<;e, both on the .Vssiniiiboiiie anil Ued Kiver, is siniilar lo the undiaioeii uiai'-hes, riilj^c, anil
hofis wliieh exist on the west coast of l.aki' Manitobah, and points to a very ui "iiial bm con-tant
drainintj of this refriori.

We reached I'rairie l'ortaf{e in the eveniliir, where we joined the main party. The Assiniiihoine at
Lane's I'ust (.lune Itith) is I'JO feet broad ; its turbid water ilowx at the rale id' one mile and a half per
hour. A few miles west of Lanes I'osI, the iialiue etflonsceiiei', before noticed, as occurrim; in
patches on the prairies and lorinin^ small barren areas, is no more to be sn'ii ; it consists of chloride
01 sodium and sulphate of magnesia, with a little chloride of calcium.

(inisshoppers were tit si observed at Lane's I'ost this year, they were the brood from the ejjijs
deposited by aswarm which alighted on the White Horse Plains in .September last. At I'rairie I'ortaijo
we found an Ojihway eniampment in which were some of llu' rebactoiy personages who hail hiiherto
resisted the humane and unceaBing elVorts of Arehdeacon t'oelirane to (liristiani/c them. Among
the various methods tried by the Arclideucon to induce them lo settle ami farm, the liist preliminary
to the progress of Chri^ttiunity among wild Indians, that of )ireuenting the most docile vvitlian ox and
plough, and tenehing them to use it, was the least successful. At the first good opportunity, or
during u time of scarcity, the ox and plough would be sold to the highest bidder for very much
less than it cost. A promise to add another ox at the end of a year, if the lirst gill was laiibfully
preserved, was of no rtVi-.ll, — the charms of the bulliilo plains were too templing or the seducliun ol
gumbling too powerful *'> be withstood, notwithstunding the most solemn heutheii promises. The

* 'i'litt Ualt-br<}«dii call llttU' gruves ofiupens or willows In (lii> {iruiriL"! " bluHs."

F 4

1 •:l**

IIKPORTS OF TIIK ASSINNIROINE AND

scliool, liowovoi', nivt's lii'ttfV liniu". iind no doul)! tlic ri.-iiiji i;cm'riili(iii. l)otli liulinn and Imlt'-brecd nt
I'riuric I'orliii'o, will loriu ii tliiiviiijr. induslriniis anil Cluistian comnnuiitv.

I'rairio I'orliU'o is vitv di'li^lillully sitnati'd fi5 miles west of rmt (iariT, on llio lianks ol' the
Assinniboinc. I'lu' prairii' liiTi.' U of tlio riclust description, towards tlie north and east, lH>nndles3
1(1 the eve. 'l"he river li.ink is l'rin<;ed with fine oak, elm. ash, and ash leaved maple ; on the south
side is ii forest from tinee to six miles deep; the rivei' abounds in stiUffeou and<;ol<l eyes, and within 18
miles, there is a splendid fishiu;; station on the coast of I.akc Manilobah, where the I'ortane
people take vast numbers of white lisli every full. The old water eonrse of the Assitniiboine, near
the Portage, now a loiif; narrow lake, frinjrid with tall reeds, lei'ins with wild fowl and gmekic,
amoiii' wliieh we frei|ueiitiy notieed and proriiu-d speeimens of the yellow-lieaded blackbird.

I'rairie I'orlaije will become an important si'tlleiucnt, not only on account of the vast extent of
fertile eoujitry which surrounils it, but because it lies in the track of the bullido hunters proceediu;»
to the (irandC'oteau and the South Mrnnch by way of the Soiiris Uiver. It is also near to the
fertile country uuwatered by While Mud Hiver, and the road to the south-westein (lanks of the
Hidini; Mountain passes by the I'ortavrc. The current of the river is very iniilbrm here, careful
levelliu},' showed that it fell I ,',;„ inches a mile : its speed is two miles nn hour. The clill' swallow
(/liniitdo fiiliui) had built its nests in yrcat nundu'rs on the hanks of the river, which are about
1(> feet ai)ove the level ol'ilie water; I counted no less than thirteen jrrouiis of their nests within i;
distance of live miles, wlieu driftini; down in a canoe. 'l"he clill swallow was afterwards seen in •;reiit
nnnd)ers on the Little .Souri-. the .South Ihaiicb of the .Saskatchewan, and the (iu'Appelle Kiver.

The (iist of a series of tlnnider storms which lasted for some weeks visited lis this ai'ternoon ( ITth).
'I'lie warm rain fell in torrents and thoroiiirhly wetted all who were exposed. I'ifjeons were llyiiii; in
vast numbers across tlu' Assininboiiie. and the black tern was luuuerons in the prairies mar the
settlement. Jn dcsceiulilij; the river l()r a few miles to inspect its banks, we had occasion to pass by
a lish weir, where a luunber of t)iibsvays, Irom the camp near the l*orta{;e, were watching with
ppeais in their hands I'uv sturgeon. They look no notice of ii.» as we passed, beiiij; loo busily eni;a};ed,
but oil our return to the eiicanipiuent we found them waitinj; with fish to baiter for tobacco and lea.
We made them a lew trilliiif? pieseiils, and by way of reconipence, sust.iiiu'd duriiif; the ni};ht the loss
of a fine cheese, which, after ciirionsly eyeiiif; doriiiL; supper, they had modestly asked lor a morsel to
taste. Tliev t'ound it excellent, no doubt, and ((uiitly in tlii' dead of lu^lit opened the basket in
which it hail bieii placed and ab.-tracted it. In future, when Indians were around, all eatables and
articles thev mi^lit covet were propirly secured, and the chiese proved to be mir only loss dm iiij^ the
exploration.

Leaviiij; I'rairie l'orta;.;e on tlio nioiniiii; of the ISttli, we took the trail !. .idiii^ to the Had Woods,
n name uiven to .i woody district about ;iit nides Ioiilt, by the bulliilo liniiters in l.-.')'J. who. in con-
gei|iieiice of the floods of that year could not pa-s to their crossiiifr place at the lirand Hapids of the
Aasinniboine by the I'laiii or I'r.iinc Hoad. 'I'liere were four hundred e.irts in the band, and the
hunters were compilled to cut a road tbninjjh the forest of small aspen- which form the liad Woods,
to eiiid)!i' them to rc.ich the hii;h HuHalo I'rairies. I'liis labour necMniid them several days, and will
be loii^ remembered in the sctllemeiits in consequence of the misery entailed on the children and
women.

The trad lay for three miles throii;ili a cimlinuatioii of the low pi liriit of the -Vs-inniboine, until a
Huddeu ascent ot •_MI to '_'.') lei t introduced lis to a oiircreiit kind of countiy, the |ilatcaii beyond the
Jtij; Kiddie, which here cros-es tlu' river, and forms iIk' lowest or first step oi' the I'embina .Mountain.
'I'he physical fealiire.s of this boiiiid.iiy to a j^reat table land «ill he noticed at leiiL'lh in tlu' senuel.
'I'he .soil continue- poor and sandy for scvi'ial miles, siippoitiiiix chimps of a-pcii wiih a few oak in
low places. The view across the .\ssiiiniboine reveals in the <listaiice the Hliie Hills, mid bclwfcn
them and the river is a vast forest, ulneli a siibseipieni exiiloiiition in the autumn showed to consist
for two or three miles nearest to the .Vs-inuiboiue, of oak. elm, asli, and aspciis ; beyond this limit the
forest is almost entirely composed of aspens of small jxrowth.

(irasslioppers were observed in f^riat numbers, and the lir-t hummiiij^ bird was seen here. I'he
banks of the livcr showeil recent w.iiir marks 1"_' feet above its present level, willow and other
trees overli.in;iiiiu the stream heiii;,' linked by the action of ice dining spriu;,' fnshels at that eleva-
tion. Kverywheri' rabbits are nuineioiis, and considerable areas occur covered «illi de.id willows
and yoiiiij; aspens, barked by these animals in the winter about two feet six inches above the ground.
The heij^hl of the bank is is|) lei t above the valley, <leiiotinj; a rapid rise in llie i^eiieral level of the
country.

On tile niornini; of the •Jntli wc entered the Had Wood-, ami followed the road cut by the hunters
in \>^'i'2. The aspens were imicli disfiLiuied by countless nimihers of caterpillars, resemliliiij; those of
the destructive I'aliner worm. In the afternoon we arrived at the .Sandy Hills; liny consist of
roiiiuled knolls covered with scrub, oak. and aspens. Our latitude to-day was ascerliiincd to he
•l!»° Hi' l!» ", the lieifjht of llie prairie l.'iO feet above the river, the bieadlh of the valley ill which the
river llowed ,-),(iMI feel, and llie variation of the compass l.'l" K. .\ller passiiifr ||u. point where the
foil lioiiii; obicrv.itions were iii.idi . ihe trail a^iiin enters the Had Woods and continiies throuj-li
them iiiilil it strikes the .Sandy Hills iijjain. 'i'liese rouniled eminences have all the appearance of
sand dunes, covered with short liiass and very stunted veffetation.

As we cinerLtcd from the I'ad \\<;oils a noble elk ti oiled to the top of n hillock, and surveyed the
siirroundinir eoiiiitrv ; a slight breath soon ciinied oiir wind as the hnnlcr was eiideuvoiiriii}{ to
iip|iro;ieh liiiii, he raised his head, siiiill'ed the air and bonndeil oil! Another terrible lliuiiderstorni
ciiiie on at sunset, wiili heavy rain and boisterous wind. 'I'he iis|iect of the country for nianv miles
is that of a plain slopiii^r (^r, mlv to the »esi, covered with iuniuuei'able mounds or hillncks of sand,
scarcely clothed with vegetation; here mid there small lakes or ponds are fouiiil, fringed with rich

SASKATCHEWAN KXPLOlUNG EXPEDITION.

1(1 tlic
mntain.

^(•(llicl.

lak ill

•IWl'CII

'oiisist
unit till'

iiIIkT

•li'va-
williiws

I'Ulllul.

of the

hiiiitcis
tliosf of
insist of
(1 10 be
hic'li lliL>
lure till'
tliruu};li
iiaiiiL' of

I'vcd tlio
iirin^ I"
lui'stonii
iiv mill's

of Sllllll,

villi ricli

vcrdui'o, but its fjoncral RliarncttT is tlint of sterility. From llic summit of an ini|)0!<in!; saiiii hill,
formerlv a (liiftiii}^ ibiiie, wliicli we asceiulcd on the 'Jlst, tin; eounlry lay mapped al our feet, lis I'.ir
lis till' oye eonld reaeli iiorlli, cast, and west, sand hills, sDiiietiiius bare, but (fiiierally covered willi
sliorl urass, met the eye.

Oil tbc afteriiooii of this day n liailstorm of iiniisiial violence canxcd ii» to halt. The stones
penetrated the hark of oiir cimoes, mid liroke oil' the {?"'"• '"I"" Rrasslioppcis, which were very
numerous just before the slorm bcatan, suddenly ili'^appeared : but they iiiii;lit be found ((iiietly
cliiif^iiif; to the leaves of ftrass in anlieipation of the storm. Al'tir it hacl passed, they re-appeared,
apparently in iindiminislied numhers, iilthoujjli every member of llie party, erDUeliiii^ for shelter
under the carts and waijf^on. fully expected the coiiijilete annihilation of these ilestriictive iiiid
troublesome insects. A siiif^iilar instinct eiialiles them to seek and find refiii^e, even from a jiitili>s
hailstorm or a dreiicliiiij; rain. The same eveiiinj; a llninderstorm iifi;ain visiti'dus; but the sun set
ill gorf^cous iiia!i;ni(leeiice, with a brilliant rainbow and vivid Ihi'^hes of lightning in the east. The
cinnamon thrush is not uiieonimon iinion;^ the sandy hills; we saw several iluriiiii the day. The next
day we reached the pines, for which we had been anxiously lookiiiu, but to our (lisappoiiitiiient they
proved to be nothing more than balsam spruce in scattered clumps. Aiiuther thuiiderstoim this
cveiiini;.

l)n the 'J.Ord we passed for a ili.'.tance of eij^lit miles lhroii};h a country of sand riilfies, until we
reai'lud I'inc Creek. Here the sand hills are absolutely bare, and, in fact, drifting dunes. Seiidini; tho
main party in advance, Mr. Mickinson niid I set (uit to examine the v.illey of the Assinniboine, wheio
I'ine C'rei'k diseiubo^ius. The sand dunes were seen reposiii!^ on the prairie level, about lijl) to l«0
feet above the river. In cros^in^ the country to regain the carts, our course lay acro>8 a broad area
of driftiiif^ sand, licaiitiliiliy rip[ilo-markeil, with here and then? niinibers of the bleacbed bones of
biilhilo protrudini;- bom llie west sidis of the dunes, niemoriaU probably of former scenes of slaii^^liler
in bi.ilalo pounds similar to those which we witnessed soine weeks afterwards at the Sandy Hills on
the ."south Ibaiuh of llio .'^askatcbewllU. The pr<i<;ress of the dunes is very marked; old billiieks
partially covered with berba<;e are gradually drilled by the pievailiiij;; westerly wind to liirni a new
one. Soiiuliiiie< the urea of pure sand was a mile across, luit jxeiierally nut more than half that
distance. The laijicsl expanse we saw was near the nioutli of I'iiii' Creek; it is called by the Iiulians
" the Devil's Hills, " and a nioii' dieaiy. parchi'd-lookiiij; re{!;ioii ciiiild scarcely be iniiii^ined.

We reached the mouth of the I.illle .Soiiris Uiver on thi' •JIth, and made preparations to cross the
Assinniboine at this point. The di-laiice travelled tliroiiLih the Siiiidy Hills was about forty-eij^ht
miles; their breadth dne-i not exceed ten milis. At the mouth of ibe Soiiris the jrrasshoppers '.vere in
coiiiitle-s numbers, and so voiiicioiis as to attack and destroy ivery article of cloihini; hit lor a few
minutes (111 the gr.iss Saddles. i;Irths. leather baijs, mid clolliinif ol any desciiption were oaten with-
out di'tiiii tion. 'I'eii niiiilites siilliced llicin, as our half-breed- found to their cost, to destroy three
pair of woollen trousers which had been cariles-.|y thrown on the f^r.iss. The i>nly way to protect our
propertv fioiii the dipiedalois was to pile it on the wa'i^nii and carts out of rnich. There were two
distinct broods of j;rassliop|iers, one with winces ikpI yet lorniid, which hail been hatched on the spot,
the ither lidl u'lown. iiivadeis fioiii the prairies soiitli (d' ilie .Nssiniiil'.oine. We noticed here to-diiy
the lii-t tliiihl of these insects, which allerwards were witnissid on ii scale of alarmin;; mngnitiiile,
•.nviiij; rise in their passai^e through the air to optical phenoiiu na of very rare and beautiful di scrip-
lions, ,\s we cautiously approached the b.iiik of the rivir oppnsite the nioiith of the Little .Souris on
llie look out lor Sioux Indians, sniiic jumpiiii^ deer and a female elk wiie obsei ved {{ambollinji in the
river. A shot fnan a .Minie rille dirpcrsul them, and started iVuni their lair two wolves who were
watihiiin the deer, patiently wailiiif; for an oppm-tnnity to surprise tlieni.

The volume of water in both rivers was carcl'ully measured at the point of jiinctiiin. The .Xssiiini-
boiiie was tbiiiid to be °_'.'!ll feit broad, with a mean deplli of six leet, and a current of cue mile and a
i|iiartcr per hour. The liittle .Souris was I'JI leet broad, two feet four inches mean depth, ami
tlowini; at the rale of half a mile an hour. Obscrviii}; iinmbirs i,f (isli risinj;; al f^rasslioppers in the
Soiiii-, we slrclched a ;iill net across the mouth of the river, and smceeiled in taking pickerel, yold-
eyes, and suckers, the Ki'ev and the red. In a second attinipl we cauji;lil a ta.tar ; a buj^e sturi^eon
f;ot cnlaiinled in the iiieshes of the ,t;ill net, and before we could land him he succeeded in breaking
away ami carryiii;; a portion of the net aloni; with him.

.'si^iis of Sioux Indians in the nei<;hbuurho()d led to our keepini; watch diii'iii<; the ni<{lit; and on
the moriiinj; of the '-'.'itb we proceeded caiiliously iii> the valley of the river, keepiiif; a sharp huik-
init. On the lelt bank the lilue Hills of the Souris are visible ten miles from the mouth of the
sireain, and towards the west the Mouse Head .Monnfaiii is s( en to ii|>proacli the (irand Itapids of the
Assinniboine. The first rock-exposure in the valley was observed about l.'i miles from the mouth
of the Souris. It consisted of a very (issilc, dark blue aifiillaceoiis shale, holdinii numerous con-
cretions containing a large jier-centage of iron, partly in the state of ci rlionate and partly as the
)iero\ide. Some very obscure fossils were foiiml, with liagincnts of a lar;.e Inoceramiis, Tlie shah'
wialhcrs ash-white. It is exposed in a clill' about '.ID feet liinli. 'llie i.pprr portion of the clill'
consisls of yellow sand, superimposed by sandy lo.uii holding liniesloiie boiildeis and pebblis. The
exposure of shale is 70 leet thick, in horizontal layers. '1 he country west of the Souris so far is
nil open, treeless, undulating prairie. On the cast side the lil.ie Hills lire very pi.iiires(|iie, with
their flanks and fiimmits wooded with aspen. IJaiii as usual; the day dosed with a ihundei -storm.

On the 'i/lli we arrived at the westerly bend of the Soni is in the midst of a very lovely, undu-
lating country; the river is here 50 feet broad, and in its passage llirougli the llliie Hills it
bus excavated u valley fully ■l.'iO feet deep, liock exposures are of freiiient occurreiice, the dip
being .')' smith. Kragments and perfect ftirms, but very fragih', of a large Iiio(Cramus are verv
eoiiiiiiuii. Tlie I'ernigilious cuQcrcliuns arc disposed in regular luyers nnd cuiislitute a markeil feature

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

of till? C'roliaooii.'-- rocks of lliis valley. A continuation of ilie valley of tiic Souris extendi in n
direction neaiiy t: nitli-east towards Pembina lliver, with wliiili it is said by tlic lialf-broeds to inter-
lock. 'I'lirie lakes visible from our camp were said to be the sources of the IVnibina lliver. A little
stream issiiiiiLt from the most westerly of these is called Hack-fat rivulet ; it (lows into the Souris.
Dei'r are very iminerons at this beautiful bund of the river. Il appears to be a favourite watering place.
The lialf-l'.reeils of St. .losepli often cross it at this bend when on their hunting expeditions to the
Grand ("oteau. It is not improbable that it will become a iioinl of importanee if ever an emigrant
rontc should be cstablishe<l from Minnesota to the Pacific via the South ISraneli of the Saskateliewan;
and fron\ the great distance saved by going through St. Joseph, instead of Fort Garry, it is not
iiiiproUable that this may yet be the case.

On tlu' ;!(lth we succeeded in passing the ]5hic Hills, aiul enjoyed on the evening of the same day
one of the most sublime ami grand spectacles of its kind which it is possible to wiiness. Ilefore
leaving the last ridge of the Hlnc Hills wc suddenly came upon the borders of a bonMilless level
prairie l.")l) feel below ns, and of a riel'- dark-greeu coloin'. without a tree or shrub, and with one
solitary conical hill in its centre. Here we expected to lind biillalo, hut not a sign of any living
ereatiu'e could be detected with the aid of a good glass. The prairie had been liurnt last auliimu,
and the liiillalo had not arrived from the south or west to people thi^ beautiful level waste. What a
miiguificeiit spectacle this vast prairie must have furnished when the lire ran over it before the strong
west wind !

From beyond the .'^oulh Ilranch of the Saskalcluwan to Red lliver all the prairies were Imrned
last aniuniu. a vast eontlagration, extending for l.UdO miles in length and sev<>ral hundreds in iireadlh.
The (liy .^ea-on had so withered the grass that the whole country ol' the Saskatchewan was in flames.
The liev. Henry Hudd. a luilive missionary at the Nepoweeii, on the North liranch of the Sa^kalche-
wan, told ine that in whatever direction he turned in Septernher last the eotiiilry sciined in a blaze;
we tr.iced the tire from the lOth p.iralU'l to the ."(iJrd, and from the llyth In the l()7th degree of lou-
gitiule. It extended, no doubt, to the IJoeky Moiiuliiiis.

A frw miles wot of the lllue Hills, being anxious to ascertain the i'ip of a veiy remarkable exposmo
of shale, wiih bandsot ferruginous coucretions, Mr. Dickenson levelled with the utnu>sl care an exposure
faciiig the luth, and (bund il to be perfectly horizontal. At the base of the exposure, and on a level
with the water's edge, »c succeeded in (inding a hiyer of rock lull of gigantie Inoceranius. One
specimen me.isured (Sl inches iu diameter, it was very fragiU\ Imt the peculiar prismatic strnctun; of
tlu^ slu 11 was remarkably well prcserveil. On attempting to raise it, it Mparated into thousands of
mimue (irisms so charaeteri>lic of this shell.

Va>t nmnliers of pigeons Wire flying in a north-westerly
direi'iiiin, and our friends the gja~-lioppers were every-
whcie abundant, l-'rom the lilue Hills toil .South Bend
of the river, rock expo-iires, posse>niiig the characteristics
already noticed, ociurred at ivery heiid of tlii' river.
'1 he fiist specimen of lignite wa.' seen near the nmuth of
P'cim t'reek, where ui' camped on the •JiUh. (l was a
watir-worn rounded boulder. ( )ii points of the river
valley >onn' fine oak, elm, balsam poplar, and aspen are
found tor the lir^t 'JD miles. The guelder rose is com-
mon, \\ild prairie ro>es abinidant, siKiwberry, and two
varietiis oi cluiiy, of frcipicut occurrence, us well as
woddbini', wild eonvolvulns, and hop.

A little beyond Plum or Snake Creek wc found nmue-
roiis pebbles anil b(ud(lei> ol lignite, and with a view to
ascertain whether the lignite existed /« joVw we m.ide an
excavation in the bank ot the river and exposed the strati-
fication liira depth ol' "J.) le, t. The last exposures of the
t'letiiceou? shales were observed about three miles ea^t of
llie biiik wheie this trial was made. \ li w hours' labour
revealed live old beaches, prob.ibly of an inlami lake.
These beaches were composed of sand and hiuilders of
jim^/^^^^^^t lignite, I'rom the si/e ol a hen's egn to <uii^ foot in

^P ^WB H^ If l diameter. No fragim lit of lignite was foiuid which did

not pos.-ess a ronmled or .^plii roidal form, and a roiighlv
polished or worn siirliux'. .Vii abundant >ii|iply was
speedily obl.iined for ;i fire, which was soon niaile on the
bank ; a strong .-iilphiiroin ochuir was emitted from the
iron Jiyiites in the lignite. The section exposed the
slratilicatioii shown in the wuodeiit.

.Some l)oul(lers of hijnite when hrokin open exhibited
si leaks anil small paitieles of amber.

The low hills about Snake t'reek ari' sand dunes, and
on tluir sides an opiintia is very common. The prairie
on the Wist ol the .Siuiri'^, as well as on the east, is tree-
less; the banks of .Snake Creek support a thin bolt of
iiiuall Ibresl trees, such as oak and ash, with a lew ash-
leaved maple. T'lie siuiuial fires prevml the willows
and aspens from coveriu)^ the country, which they

trillt,

Ci
II,

•'.

1)1. K

.Suul.

I)..

II,.

I,i;.'riili-
};iii<)ti

Sanil.

i Safi.i.

IVri u.

I.i

lliMil.Ur

I^VA IMIN OV Til 1

.vxi IKN r iii:.\eiiK

.S;.li(J Willi Lij!;ililf

llluo Ci;

I.IITir. SOIIIIS, SIKlWINIi
WITH I.Ui.M't'K llOLt.UKItS.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

imm-
1(1
nil
slrati-
if tlio
■;i^l of
iibour
l.ikc.

IMS <>(

Kit ill
eh (lid

WllS

III) the
III! tlie
•il tlif

liliitfd

, niul
prairie

irce-
lielt of
'w ash-
tilloivs

tlipy

undoubtedly would do until replaced by otlier species, if not destroyed to within a few inches of
the root every time the fire sweeps over tl.cui. 'i'lie banks of the Sonris here are not more than
40 feet hif;h, with level prairies on either hand, a few miles bcyoml the Snake Hills. Within fdiir
miles of the mouth of Snake Creek, Oak Lake, several miles in diameter, attractod the lniiitiii!;
portion of our party ; they brought bark some pelicans, and a score of duck. Tliuiidcr storms
us tisiiai to-day and yesterday.

On the 1ft iliily we arrived at the Sonris sand hills, and n)ade a section of the river bank where
a land slip oecjisioned a fine expos .n'e to the water's edge. The formation consisted of blue clay
above tlu' level of the river fivr, feet, supporting Anir feet of ferruginous sand and gravel, on wliicli
rejiosed 12 feet of sandy loiiii and sand to the prairie level. The blue clay, capjied by the ferru-
ginous sand was traced for a (lislanee of ti^ miles, and showed a dip to the south of two feet in the
mile, the clay disappearing beneath the water. No t.rganic remains of any description were found,
although a careful ."eareli was made Boulders jf lignite from six inches to nine in iliaineter were fre-
quently seen in the bed of the river. The !•{;;'» of the nighlhawk were several times found on tl v
bare ground, with no approach to a ne.st for the helpless young. The parent birds endei' voured to
draw us away from their egg.-", fluttering, a.s if wounded, a short distiuicc from tliem, and ii'.teriiig cries
of dis'ress. 'l"he IIiilIsoii's Ihiy Company have a post on the river among the sand hills, wiiicli is
maintaine<l only duri ig the winter; the .Sioux in suiiimer and autumn being altogc'ther opposed to
the approaches of ei\ilization in thi^ir hnntiiig grounils, and enlerlaining besides a i'cdiiig of deadly
hostility to the lied Hiver half-breeds.

Near the Company's house we found on the river hank an extensive deposit of bog iron ore, capped
by shell marl, and above the marl drifted sand. The banks of the river are here not more limn 25
feel high, and on the ea.«t side there is a narrow fringe of tine timber. The liois de \'aelie (dried
buffalo dung) is dislriluited very abundantly in the prairie and throuj^U the sand hills and ranges
n(ar to the post. In fact the bulliilo were very numerous during the wliole of the winter of l.s.jfi
and s).ring of lH.j7 on the banks of the Sonris, but the great fires (hiring the autumn of last year have
driven lliein south and iiorlh-west, and between the two brancliesof the Saskatchewan. Ihe eonnlry
is verv low after parsing tli.' last sand hills, and over a large extent of prairie south of lliese drill
tiiubev is found, -iKiwing the extraordiiiaiy rise in the waters of the river during the (loods of li<,jO,
On the •Jnd .Inly we observed the grasshoppers in full iliglit towards the north ; the rlr as far a.- the
eve could iH'iietrale appeared to be filled with llieni. They commenced their flight about nine in the
inorning, and continued until hall'pasl thii'e or four o clock in the afternoon. About ihat hour I lev
settled aroiuid us in i-inintless imiltitiuKs. and imiuedi.itely clung to the leaves of grass anil roted after
llif. ;uriiey. On sul)5e(pient day-. «lien crossing the great prairie from Hed Deer's Head IJiver lo
I 1)1 ; "''.the ho>I ot grasshoppers were beyond all calculation ; they appeared lo be inliiiite \\\
mil. ' ■ irlv in the morniiig tla y f((l upon the prairie grass, being always found most minieroiLi

ill I . ; laces, where the gii'-s was long. .\s toon as the siin had evajiorated the dew, iliey took short

fli^ .. ..i as the hour of nine approiiehed, el. i after cloud would rise fvoin the |nairie and pursue
their tlinlit in the direclion of the winil, which was generally .S.S.W, 'I'he number in the air seemed
to lie grealesi ahmit noon, and at limes they appeared in siiirh infinite swarms as to listen iiei'ii'\ililily
the light ol the snii. The whole hori/oii wore an '.iiieartlilv ashen hue from the light relli lU d b\ llieir
transparent wiii;;s. The air was filled as with flakes of snow, and time after time clouds of these
insects torining a dense body, casting . glimmering silvery light, flew swiftly towards 'he north
north-east, at altitudes varying from .'uit' to perhajis 1,00(1 feet.

I.vingoii my back and looking upwards as near to the sun as the liglit would permit, I saw the skv
conlinually changing colour from bine to silver white, ash grey and lead colour, aecordiiig to ihe
niiinheis in the pa.ssiiig clouds of insects. Opposite to the sun the prevailing hue was a silver white,
perceptibly flashing. On one occasion the wlude heavens, towards the south-east and west appeared lo
radiate n soft grey-tinted light with a i|uiveriiig uiolioii, and the day being calm, tlie hum pro(liic((l
bv the vibraiion of so many millions of wings was (|uite indescrihabh!, and more resembled the noise
|>iipiilarly teriiud "a ringing in one's ears,' than any other sound. The aspect of the heavens dining
the greatest flight we observed was singularly striking. It produced a feeling of uneasiness, amaze-
ment, .iiiil awe iu our niind>, as if some terrible unforeseen calamity were about to happen. It recalled
more vividly than words could r.-C|'.ress the devastating ravages of the Kgyptian scourges, as it seemed
lo bring us liice lo liice with one of the most striking and wonderful e.Kliibilioiis of Almighty power
i-i the creation and siisleiiance of this infinite army of insects.

In the evening, when the gras.^hopius were resting from their long journeys, or in the morning,
when fii'ding on the grass leaves, they rose in clouds around us as we marched through the prairie
—if a strong wind blew they hecaine very troublesoiiie, flying with force against our faces, in the
nostrils aid (yes of the horses, and filling every crevice in the carts. J{ut fortunately, coniparativelv
lew flew on a windy day, otherwise it wiuild have liecn almost impossible to make heiulwav against
such an inliiiite host in rapid motion bef<ue the wind, although composed individually of such iiisigni-
ficaiil incinhers.

Those pmlions of the prairie which had been visited by the grasshoppers wore a curious appearance ;
the grass was eiil unilonnly to one inch from the ground, aiuJ the whole siirliice was covered with the
small, round, green exiiviiu of these deslriictive invaders.

The valley of the Souris, along which we travelled during the day, varies from one fpiarter to one
mile broad ; the river is not more than "2.") feet across and very shallow. It flows thnuigh a
rich open meadow, o() lo .'W It'Ct below the general level of the prairie, which on either hand is
iindiilaling, liceles-, lighl.and covered with a short stunted grass, with rdiuiidance of la>t veai's hoii
de vache. 'I'he first fresh imilalo tracks were seen today, and while taking ohservation^ for lalilii.le,
tracks of a dill'ereul cliaracler and i'reater significance were discovered bv one of the half-breeds ilie

G 2

REPORTS OF THK ASSINNIBOINE AND

fi'osli print of liorsos' fi'ot, proiiomiced to be a fow houi's old, denoting the presence of Sioux oi"
A-ifliniiiboiiics iii our iiclfflibourliood.

IJcfort- rciu'iiini; the 4!)th piiridlcl, the Souris nu'iindcrs for scTcral mill's thioiigli n trceletis valley,
about a niik- broad and <i() iWt bi'low tlio prairif U'viO. Tunle Moinitain on tlie east rises iu)l)iy from
tho -^rent plain, the boundary line between lirilisli and Anu'rican territory cutting it. 'liii- country
tte.sl of llie !)ouris is a treeless desert, in dry seasons deMlitute of water, and without n shrub or bush
thicker than a willow twiir. We ascertained the breadth of this arid, woodless track to be at least GO
miles, north of the Ued Deer's Head Kiver on the 4Ulh parallel. Near the boundary line the Sot:"ij
expands into a series of large ponds and marshes which are called the Souris Lakes. In high water
they form a continuous lake of impo.Miig nuignitnde, eNtending many miles south of the 'l!)th parallel,
eonseipiently far within the United States Territory.

A vast number of boulders are strewed over the hill bank of the Souris, near the 4!)th parallel, and
ona|ioint between a small brook and ll." S uu'is wo found a number of conical mounds and the
remains of an intrenchment. Our half-breeds said it was an old Mandan village ; the Indians of that
tribu having formerly hunted and lived in this part of the Cireat Prairies. Wt- endeavoured to make
an o|)cning into one of the mounds, and penelrnled si.t feet without fuidilig anything to indicate that
th<' mounds were the rcPiains of Maiidan lodges. There i.s a Mandan village near Fort Clark on the
Missouri, and in tho com, try drained by the Yellowstone the remains of this once fine and powerful
tribe aie now to be found.

Having r^aehed the -inih parallel and triced the .Sjuria in search of Lignite in position for a
distanee r',' 10(1 miles, wo altered oHrc(iUi>e to a g')0.1 camping ground on Red l)cer's Head Uiver, and
made 'reparations for crossing a treeless, arid, prairie at least (iO miles broad, in a direction nearly due
nor'.i.

The Little Souris nowhere approaehes the Missouri nearer than .'10 <pr 10 miles.* IJeyond
the .Souris Lakes it flows in a valley '-'00 feet below the level of the prairie, with a wooded bottom from
one half to two miles wide. The nearest timber \i> the direction of the proposed Pacific I<ailroa<l,
near the -IKlh pr.rallil, i ast of the .^^oinis, is in the valley of Hed Itivcr, '200 miles distant,
mid wiili ilie exception of eclton wood, there is no timber west of the Souris lor It):) miles
at the Hears Paw. | Wlicic .Mr. Tiiikliam crossed the Little .Souris,! far within llie limits of
the LTuited Slates Territory (lat. -l^^O-J". he found ii on the "Jl.-t .Inly to be I'JO feei «\ide, and too
d< op to liird. The ell" els of ev.ipdraliini :ire plainly seen in tlu' diminished volume of water which
flows through the lilue Hills only a few miles fiom its jmiclioii with the Assinniboine,

ill

(•il\pti;k h.

1 iio.M Tin: roiuY-MM'ii p.\um.i.i:i, hn iiii. i.iirii; smiiis ti> iuiit n i.k r.. — kiidm loiir ii.i.iii:

rii iiii; wi '.M'i'i I.I I. MISSION.

Iinlim. Mprns Smell <il' lire — 'I'lie Si(iii\ — I'l-cc.'iiilii'ii- — " SeiiulliliiL' " — " SiMiii~ I.,ike>" — 1,'ccl Din's IIc;el

Uivci- — riie (ireMi I'lairie, cliaiiieler i>l'— Mir:i;.'e- iliiil (ii:i"lici|)|H i — ri|ii-Ii.iic> ( 'reek — ('Mniiliy

,.lj..ii'..'eil Kiiic-I iii-ii|i|ieiirei! — I rei:M'eiiii« Idiek-' — IIiiII.iIm liiill — Kori |-;iliic' — .MiKay — I 'i.e.- — lliiiiiers —

I'rcix i-i.iii 'I'liiiliiii: I'e-i — IV-iiiieiiii — Drii il Mi'.-ii — 'riiiimlir Siiuiii.. — .M.'iiiniiniii limie OJiliHiiv lliiiilir

|;i,l._>i. Kiniii-Killllik — Mmle nf M;illlll':iellllili;.' — llinildi I Wllile C'ralli- — Mii;;|iii Itinls — Dew —

Ari'lilv el' (Ireiil I'niirie — Cliiiiles I'liill — Clialk Mill- — lieliaii 'riiriii|i — (jiiVViipelle l.ake« — rre.-li
.\n:lllj:elilenls — Deseelll anil A-nlll nl' llie l^ll'.\|i|M lie — t^ir.\p|nllr Mi»iiili — Dilllell~iM||. iiC \iillc y —
Cliararler nl' Lake- — Wliile l''i-li — liev. .Iiiiiie- Seiiee — (ianlrii el' .Mi.>iiiii — ( ;iii-~Ii.i|i|m-i- — ('liii-llaii
\Viii>lii|i Hapli-iii — ■■ riayiiij; Tailn r" ainl " I'liiyiii;.' Man " — liiini — liiMiaii \Vi-lie>.

While engaged in taking oliserv.itioii" for latitude at the inoiilh of Heil Jteer's Head Itivtr, on the
ninlit of llie '.'lid .liilv. .lolin MeKay, a Seoiih hall-breed, ob-erved what he thought to be a wolf
approiieh the brow of a hill, iihoiil •_>00 yards from us, and after apparently g.iziiig at the cneaiii|imeiit
for a few miiuiles, il relired beyiiiiil view The night was clear, and as we were eniiiiiipeil in llie
vallt v of the river, elo-e to its Jiiiieliini wiih that of the .Simris, siinininded by sleep h'lls abiiiit l.'iO
feet liiyh, .111 obiecl appearing on the br iw of those in our rear could be seen projected against the
clear skv. McK.iv look no fnrilier leiliee ol tlu' str.inge vi-ilor than to mmliiiii tlial he saw it and
ihiiiiglii it w.is a Wdlf, but hclore we r<lired to our lelits al •_' a.m. we saw another ligiire, whidi he
tleeliiied to be an Imliin, apjiear near the s:ime spot. Two of ihe pirly c.iutiously appiuaehed the
foot 111' ihe hill, bill lielore tlii'y could reach il, ihe (igiiie crouclied and sluwly retired, 'llie hnracs
were <Mthered near Ihe carls and a watch .»ct, but lie-- iiiuhl pis>ed willioiil ihc reappe.uaiue of the
objeel of our 'il-liirion. On lie- follou iiu liioniilig we ende.ivoiiicil lo di^eiuer tiacks ;it the spot
where il h. id iippe.iied, bill llie liill being coiiipused iifgravil, llie .--oil had received no imprei-ioii
which our niD-t -h.npsighli d hair-breciU couhl <h'tccl.

In the allenioun ol the fullowing day li.uiiig verilied our oliservations on polaris by a solar observa-
tion at noon, we sl.irled fur a new camping ground about LJ mile-, up Red Deer's Head Kiver,
where we proposed lo lake ill a supply of woi.d for fuel before cro-iing the (ileal I'lairie to I''<irt
Lllice. On our wav ihillier the old linnler who had jo'iied us al I'rairie Portage said he smell Jirr ;

(iu'in.ur .St.vi'n's i;?.i(I' Mill ns aiiil Surwv*-, [*. 'J I.

fhi'l., p. 11. K.iHirt uf till' Sccntiiry of War. * ////./.> p. a.;:.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

cvory mi'iTil)cr of llic party sti'&incd liia olfiiclory nerves to tlic utmost, but without detecting llio
siiu'll cil' !iiv, ni'vcrtlu'lcss the old liunter persisted in iiis statement timt lie had " smelt it.'' We
fiiniped at sunset ch).-o to the river, and when taking supjier distinctly licard the distant neigh yl' a
hor.se; tlii.i was considered sulTicient warning, and taken in eoiniexion with the appearance of tlie
object on tiie iiill in the rear of oiir camp tiie night before, was hekl to be coiieiusivf evidence
that we were watclied by tiie (Sioux, and that an attempt would be made in the night to steal our
horses.

Our fires were put out, the carts placed close together, and ii watch set; the lialf-brecds did not
anticipate an attempt until tlie approach of dawn, but the sudden ^'alloping of several horses
who were feeding in the valley about 100 yards from us, towards the carls, soon alter ten, proved
that Indians were already near ns. .'On hearing the horses approach, tiie men started up and ran to
stop them, which they succeeded in doing before they passed the carts. Kach horse was now
tethered, and the half-breeds, crawling thr()\igh the long grass, arranged themselves in a half-circle,
about 70 yards fr,im the carls, each with his gun loaded with buckshot. The night was dark,
and perfect silence wan mainlained in the camp. 'I'owards moining one man came in to rejKjrt;
he .slated that he had heard " soii'.ething " cross the river and ciawl lliroiigh the grass within a few
yards of him. lie waited a few minutes for more to follow before lie fired or gave the alarm,
and then ranlioiisly crawled through llie long gra-s in the track of the " soinelhing'' wliicli bad
passed near to hi:ii. 'I'lie tr.'ick led him to within ,')0 yards of our tents, and then lurned towards
the river, and evidently crossed it.

Morning soon dawned, and the watchers came in. We examined the tracks described by the
half-breed who had first hoard the intruders, iind they were pronounced to be those of an Indian.
Further exainiiialiou in full daylight fliowe<l that we bad been surrounded by a band, who, liov.ever,
peiceiving that we were on the alert, and that the hoivcs were tctbeied, made no attempt to steal
them. Had it not been lor llie old hunler's excellent nose, there is little doubt that we should liav«
lost our horses during the night.

Tlie moulli of Ked Deer's Head IJiver is wlihiii a few yards of the 40ih [larallel. Mr. Ilimc fool'
a |ihc)t(igrap!i of the v.dley, while otiieis of tlie parly niaile an exenrsion to the Souris Lakes, within
the I'nilid ^jtales territmy, in ihe li(i|)e of finding bull'alo to replenish our slores; but aiihoiigli fresh
tracks well' sei 11, an<l skulls and bones in large iiuinbers, the lemain.s of last year's "run," yet no
living animal lint a 'eabrl" Wii< vi.-ihie.

( )ii llie inorning of the -Itli, having loaded the carts with wood an<l taken a supply of water from
lied Deer's Head Kiver, which i^> here a rapid, clear slream l"J fti'l broad, we started on a nearly
due norlli eouise to cio^s the ('leal I'rairie. The water marks on the hanks ol' lied Deer's Head
Kiver show that it rises l.'i feet during spring IVe-heN, almost filling the Idw, narrow vallev in
which it (lows. TIk' banks ari' fringed with small elm, balsam, poplar, and aspens. 'I'he piiiirie tor
many milc< ap|iiars In be peii'eclly horizoiil i' : we always >eeiiied to be in llie eenlie of a very
sliallow depre>-ii)ii. wiih a uniform and welUililinrd lioi-izDii in all dinctions. In the inoniing the
distant outline meeling the clear sky was lust defined ; as llie d ly wore .in refracliiin magnified llio
tufts of grass and small willows into biinhes and tree-, de^tidviiig lli" conliiiiiitv ol' the line liori-

/onlal line wliere
deliisi'

\ and earlli Sieiued lo meet.

iiiallv the eil'icls of niiiMii

were very

lieaiitilnl. nMiiipiil lake;

l'ortii;:alelv, the almost d lilv thundeistoriiis

dileuly appeared in ih.' distance, and a~ (piickly fided fnnii our

hail

•d

rpl

shed tl

le m.irslies

ul gavi' lis an abund.iiil supply cf w.iUr, but in some seasons tl.e buH'aK)

,'iti<. ii:all piinil'

hunters siilUi- niiieh tVoisi llie waul of water in en

Amoni; the Imi

Is nolleeil duriil:; ih:

Its va-l Ire
moiioioiious joiiriK'v were

■le s pranie.
lurkev liii/zai'ls. r.ivi

I'k tiTiis. We saw .-ome herdu of caliri, and McKay

111

(1 in killiii!/a li'maie. Wi

rl.iMii

to several ^llallow l.ike<. which are ol'leii drv in llie autniiin ; i

duck-

L'litifiil in till

itll'.i

IVS 111

till

grateful supply of fresh fond. Tl

le irras-ho

ik.

j| .-li

till

ippeis wcie

were

verv aliiindant, am

I fur fi:

.-imullaneiii-lv, when about lo lake their lliiiht.

fidin areas two to -^) acres in exlciil, lir.-l prr|ieii licularly lo the height of j-J or II feet, ihcn in a
slanting diiivlioii, uiilil they had allailied an elev.ition of fmni 'JHI) |.i .■illll feel, afU'r wliieli lliey

miisned a liori/.mual com

I'ef,

In a light bieeze tli

was like a gentle wind stirring the ..lives of a ful'ist.

idllieil liv ll

H'lr wings

Oiir half liieed-i infurmed us that this great piairie wist of tiie Souris eontiiiiies troehss and

and tor a ihslane

1)1' lit)

It IS

lien crossed

luetiiig, as will be aflerwaids slii

the liver the prairii' ciiinimiis fur is|)

a river, \y

LibabI

v an arm o

f the

Nouns, eoli-

th llie l^ln'.Vppelle liivi r at K

Hone Crei k. lievoiid

further, wiih.ail tree or sliriib ;

tills w;i

liiiiil to wliieli aiiv of ihiui

had

the

|.)lirilevev

could aH'oliI IH no fnrlhi'i iiif u-iiialioii lesuecliog ils eMeiit

their biiHiilo-hiiiili g expi dit.otis. iln^y

uv well' inust ol llieai laiiiiliar

1 the lounlry south of the (ileal I'l.iirie, the tir.iiid Coleaii

<liiiiii.i llic siminr in va-t her Is. On

Nsoiin, w

lilh .1

Miiitrv swarininii wiih a voiiii;; brood of

iilv we an ivi <

1 at I'

Mom

re the

Cvei

hulfi

and found

oppi

Willi wiiiL's alMiiit a iiuarler of an ineli

< 'gij

11 III.

ill. It their progenitors had arrived in the preceding autiimii in time to deposit tliiir

id. 1

iiniiiiier.i

ble

KIStS

if ll

Use iiiseels pa-s(.i

rrliead (it

llie

l\v,

looking lip lliioiigli an excellent luaniie
heighl. Hail it not lieiii for the thiiuderl

see lliein

111(1 on

seiul at ail iniinciise

i)riii> wliieli I

lail

V velreslu'

.1 and iiivii;iiiMlod the he

rliaae,

ii proh.ihle lliat our callle would have .siiU'ered serioli.-ly from the devaslalioiH of these iii-eets.
l'i|1e Stone C.'rc^ k is 'JU liet broad at our crossing plaei', witha switt cuireiit, and a depth of

Water varying from one am
111 ijile is iiio-l nnin'riiiis.
i's iieighbotuhood boiildei.-

hall to llnee feet. Anion

g the tr

fringing ils banks llie ashleaved

IV of this river is narrow, luil rieh and braiilifiil. On the hills in

lire niiiiicioiis un

d Ihi

oil iianen.

ivcd at the Assinibo

(i ;$

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOTNE AND

he Two Creeks on the evening of tlie 7tli July. It may here be reranrked that our hiinter, who lind
undertaken to gnide us in ii straijjlit line across tl\c piiiiric from Red Deer's Head River, confesMed
that he did not know the country when within 10 niiirs of the Assinniboine ; lie nevertheless declared
his conviction that we sjliould strike the river at the point lo wliich iio had promised to U'ad us.
He had not visited it for "JO years, and tlie timber, consisting of uspens and willows wliich
then covered the country, had nearly all disappeared. The old man was correct, the face of the
country had changeil, the aspen forest had been burnt, and no vestifje remained ; we struck the
Assinniboine within two miles of the spot to wliieh he had been directed to lead ns.

Cretaceous rocks were afjain vecoirnized on the steep hill sides of the Two Creeks. They had
the same lithol(i{,'ical aspect as those of the Souris; organic remains were scarce, but in suthcient
numbers and variety to establish their position. On tlie !>th we passed through a fine grazing
countrv, and here saw the iirst buffalo hull. After a chase of half an bomb's duration, we suc-
ceeded" in killing him. Although very tough and rather strong flavonrcil, he was an acceptable
addition to our larder. Three more bidls were seen on the following nH)rning, but being anxious to
reach Fort Kllici', and already provided with meat, they were iiermittcd to pass us \nimolested.
The country in the nciglibourliood of Heaver Creek is very bcautitid, hut the soil is sandy, sup-
porting a short stinted herbage. We arrived at the Kort on the imirning of the i>lb, and took up
our camping ground on the hanks of Heaver Creek, close to the Lcautil'ul valley of the .\ssiuniboirie.

Fort '"''ice was at one jicriod a j)ost of C(?n8iderable iniportaiice, being the depot of supplies
for th an R'>er District, now removed to Fort I'elly. The buildings are of wood, surroiuided

hy a fiiirh picket enclosure. Mr. McKay, one of the sid)-orticers, was in charge at the time of our
arrival. ftome 20 years ago, before the small-pox and constant wars iiad reduced the I'lain
Crees to one sixth or eighth of their former numbers, this ])Ost was often the si^ene of exciting
Indian display. Mr. McKay remembers the time when the entire tribe who now hunt on the
Qu'A|)pell<' .iMil South Ihanch would approach the Fovt lo receive their supplies, lo the uinnber
of fslKI warriors. >pl.iidi(lly mounted, and singing their war songs. Twenly years ago the tribe
numbered -l.ttdO. in 5011 tcnt>; al the p 'sent day they do not exceed l"2(l Iciils, which npresent a
lioiailatiou of !)(iO or l,(M)0 .-.ouls. I'oinierly I'ort Kllice used to be visited by the Crres alone;
now it numbers many < •jibway-> among the Indians trading with it. The Ojibways or Saulliaux
have been driven from the wdmls by the scarcity of garni', the large .'inimals. such as moose deer
and bear having greatly dimiiiislied in numbers. Many of the wood Indians now keep hor^es and
hunt on the plains.

On tlie lllli .Tulv a numbir of luniters attached to I'ort F.llicc cime in with jirovisions. such a"
pemieau and dried hulfalo meal, whicli they had pre|iaied in the prairies a t''W days before', about
30 miles from the Post, wliire the bnlliilo were lumcrous, Foit Kllice, the (^u'.Vppille I'o-i, and
the estalilishiiitiit on the Toiicliwood llill>, being situated on the b(U'dirs of tin- (ileal Riinido
Plains, are provision trading jiosls. Tiny obtain from llie i'lain Cncs. the .Assiiiniboines, and ttie
Ojiliwavs, |ieiiiican and diiid niiat to supply the brigades ami boats in their ispidilions to Vmk
Factorv.on 1 Imlsoii Hav, and lliroughout the norlherii interior. I'miican is made by pounding or
chopping biillalo meal inio small pieces and then mixing it with an ei|iial (piantily i f tat. It is
iiackfd in liai^'s made of the liid<' of the animal, in ipiaiitilies of about I'O piaiiids each. Dried
me;it is till' flesh of the buHiilo (111 into long and broad thin pieces, about two ti'i't by I .) inches ;
it is smoked over a .-low fire for .i liw miiniles and the n packed into a b.de of about (iO pounds.
We had in.iny opportunities of steing llie free women on the (^u'Appelle i-iit. prepan , and p.ii'k
dried meat,

.\l Foil F.iliee lh(! tliunder storms were as violeiil as on the Souris, not a day pa-srd wiihoiil
li"litninL', ihiiiider, and ■;eiu rally violent rain of hall an hour's duration. Tlie grassliopjiers at this
Post had deslroved the cro|is last year, and at the time of our visit, the yoiiiig brood were well
advanced, lluir wings being about one third of an inch long. lull-grown insects from the south
were living overhead or alighting in eliuids anatiid ns, so that all ho))(s of ohiaiiiiiig a crop finiii llu?
garden or jiotato (ii Ids were abandoned for this year Provisions were very scarce at the Post, anil
had it not been for the loitiinale arrival of the hunters with ,soine peiiiican and ilried me.it, we should
have been compelled to liunl or kill the ox,

'From Mr. McKay I recei\ci| a parliciil.ir account ol the "(ireal liones on .Sliell (ree!:,
which had long been .i source nl' wonder and awe lo the Indians linnling on llii' lel'l hank of the
A.Ssinniboiiie, ami whose magiiiliceiil ilescriplioiis led nie lo suppose they might belong to a celacean,
and were worth a day's journey < iil of our track to visit and examine. They ueii' seen many years
ago pronudiiig from the b.iiik of .Shell Creek. 'JO feel below the prairie's level. .Mr. McKay
ilislrucled SOUK ol the hnnteis atlaebed to the Post to bring them to him. No Indians would kmicIi
llieiii, and the liall'-biied (Uily hroiiLjht a tooth and collar boiu', which were slated by a niedi<'al gen-
lleinaii to whom they Were shown to belong to a mammolh, Mr. Christie, of Fort I'elly, we wia-e
iulormed, went to Shell Creek with a view to collect more specimens; he oblained some iili-, hut in a
state of erumbliiig <lecay ; they wire sent to lied Rivir ."settli'incnl. The Indians bail long regarded
thein as the bones of ,i Maiiitou and uorlliy objects ol veneration. .An old Indian on Dauphin
Lake, to whom reference will be made liercafler, described similar bones cm the banks nf \ alley
River, leading to Dauphin Lake ; bill the siMson was too late when exploring that purl of the country
to permit of an examination.

On Moiiilay iIh- I'Jili preparations for conlinning our journey wi'slwanl were i oiiiplcted by
engai'iiig an Indian lo assist in paddling Mr. Dickinson down the Qu'Appelle or Calling |{iver from
the .Mission to ils jiinclion wiih the Assinniboine. 1 lie liidl of his wiiges he stipulated lo have in
advance, .Mr. McKay told me he was a bad Indian aiwl ii 4 lo be linsled. Iiiil we could not succeed
in getting another. W hen on the point of starting, a young Ojihway, painted and adorned with

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

frntlit'i's, j^nllopi'd up to the I'oA, entered the room, drewl'rom beneath liis mnoBo skin robe two moose
tonfiiies and ii iiioiitflo, whicii he quii.tly hiuided to Mr. McKay, and, s(|Uallin{; on tlie floor without
sjicaking u word, lit his pipe. After a f(;w niinutes he inlornicd us that he and his fatlier had killed
two iiiooiie, .'lO niile.s oil', and de.'<ired .MeKay to send for tliein. Two half-breed Imnters also
arrived at this moment, in sad pli}{ht, hungry and tired, with worn horses and torn clothea. They
had come from Fort Union, on tlie Alis.souri, having been hunting on the Grand C'oteau, where they
niot a war pirty of (iO HIaekfeet. They then lied to the fort, the HIaekfect pursuing; them, and
insisted that the Fort Union people shoidd give them up, a request which was promptly refused.

ntn'lng the ni({ht the Fort Union people gave them a small supply of provisions, and lending
thent out to the jirairios, told them to run for it ; they did so, and arrived in safety at Fort Ellice
after a hanissiiig journey.

At 4 p.m. on the I'-'th .luly we left Fort Kliico and travelled due west through a pretty country
near the banks of tin; (Ju'Appelle or C'aliinf{ River. Wo passed one c(uagmire, and, after breakfast
on the folliiwin;; day, arrived at the Cross Woods; they consist of aspen, uitli a splendid nnderijrowth.
The pastunnie is excellent, and the road good. Observed to-day the grasshoppers descending from
a great bright pcrpendienlariy, like hail — a sign of approaching rain. On the Itith we passed
through a fair rolling jounlry, the soil consisting of sandy loam with much vegetable matter in the
valleys. Aspen groves are inimerous, and many little lakes, margined with reeds, afl'urd ((uiet breeding
places for duck. The road is good in summer, but wet and soft in the s|>ring.

The griissjioppers ycsterdiiy were e.vcelient prognostieators, a violent thunder storm in the after-
noun coniMu iKiil in the east, (ail |)recedino storms had come from !' st,) and was itccompanied by
exceedingly heavy rain and a very boisteroiis wind. The storm t d for sevc:il hours. At 9

in the evening the air was calm and the heavens clear and bright; a 10 I'le storm returied from
tl;e wisl, and a niori' terrific and sublime exhibition of elemental warfare none of us had ever before
witne.'ned. Three times the lightning struck the earth so close to us that there was no jicrceptible
interval between the Hash and the shock. It was distinctly heard to liis.i through the air, and, instead
of penetrating the ground at once, it seemed to leap from bush to bush for a distance of 00 or 70
yards, .'^o close did one (lash approach tis that when we had recovered from the shock and our eyes
hail regaineil their powi is, several of us met each other, groping from cart to carl, to see if anv of
the pally had been struck. It is remarkable that although the wind was blowing violently befm-c and
afler thi' two Hashes just described occurred, yet, between them, an interval of about tliree-(piarters
of a niiiiule. there was a dead calm, and a calm of short duration succeeded each Hash in our
imtiieiliale vieinily.

The trail eoiiliiiueil tlniiiigh good land for nine miles, with aspen groves on the crown of each
uiiilulatlon. and willow bushes '.n the hollows. 'I'hen came a prairie, three miles across, but of much
greaier exiciil longiluilin illy. I'oiids were numerous, abotnidiiig with ducks and ducklings. '1 he
grey crane was very abundant, as well as a young brood of grasshoppers. Another rain and llninder
storm on the evening of this day, the 1 Ith. lasting as usual for about one Imnr. On the following
nioriiiiig we reached a treeless prairie, marked at its weslern extreinily by a sandy ridge rnniiing
N.W. bv S.I!., kiioun aniiing the Iiiiliaiis as the Weed Kidge. It was covered with the bearberrv, from
whicli the kiniii-kinnik, used lo mix «ith tobaccn, is made. This was the first time we saw this weed
since leaving ihe sandy liilU of ihe Assinriil)ciiiie. The Indi ins of the prairies generally Use the
inner bark of the Cuniiis srrirni, the red barked willow as they term if. We .saw them smoke the inner
bark of the dogHo.id. ('uniux ulliriiifoliii.

The mode in which ihesi' barks are prepared is very simple. .\ few branches, ahoiil three-quarters
of an inch thick and four ir live feet long, are procttred, the ;iuter bark is scraped oil", after having
been wanned over a (ire ; a knife is then |ire«sed against the inner bark and drawn upwards, for a
space ol six or cijilil iiuhc- until the whole ef tiie inner bark is gathered in curly clusters round the
stick; it is then thrust in 'round over the embers and roasted until quite dry, when, mixed with

tobaci'o in c ipiul proporti " riiis the favourite kiniii-kinnik of the Norlb-We^t Indians. 1 often

saw them smoke bark or aves of the bearberry alone, when th-ir -npply of tobacco was

exhausted. The Indian who iccoiiipanied us to the Qii'.Vppelle .Mission comp allied of weakness and
pain in the chest ; he snifereil iiinch from cough, and was evidently consiimplive; he was, however,
triiicheriiiis anil indolent, and, as will be shown hereafter, soon left us in the lurch.

Ilevond the Weed Ividge the coiinlry is very undulating; boulders of both fossiliferoiis (silurian
limestoiii') and iinl'o>silifero'is (i;neiss) rocks were strewed nn the flanks and siiiinnits of the bills.
'1 he white crane wiis first sciii to-day. I'lii^ beautiful bird is common in the Qn'.Vppelle Vallev am!
in the ruiiihudiiil Hill i;iiij_'i'. It is a dangi'rous anlagoiii>t uheii woiniilcd, striking with niierriin'
aim and gri'at loice with its powerliil bill. When a bird is wounded, the best way to avoid its attacks
is to present the miiz/le ot tlie gnu as it approaches; it will fix ils bill in the barrel, and may then be
destroyed williout danger. Instances have been known of this bird driving his bill deep into the
bowels of a hniitv'- when not successful in warding olf its blow. Magpies are numerous on the Weed
llidge, and the cat bird is heard in every little wooded dell.

()n the l.)tli we passed two streamlets flowiii!; into the (^n'Appelle. Their banks were fringed
with >inall limber and i|uite lively with birds. In general birds are far more abundant here than on
the .Soiiris. On all the wooded brooks we ."aw magpies, cat birds, crows, and, occa«ionallv, the
solitary thrush; in the wet prairies, the rice bird, black tern, llie golden-legged anil coninion ploviT,
the yellow-headed bl.ickbird, common meadow lark, chipping sparrow, and grackle; on ponds and in
marshes, ducks ol many species, bittern and cranes. In the luoriiing. after a clear night, wo alwavs
observed lieavy dew. 'I'his phenomenon was not so frequently noticed on the Souiis under similar
circumslances. Tlierc can be little doubt that the aridity and barrenness of the Great Frairie
between the Qii'Appelle and the 4i)lh parallel is owing to the small (piantity of dcv and rain, and

G 4

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

tlio occurrence of fires. Nortli of tlio Qii'Appclli' llic country seemed to be fur more humid, and tlie
vcgeliilion infinitely richer timii couth of thai ^n\\ vahev.

Anollicr i)niirio ciglit uiiles hroiid sncceeihii;; to llmt liist dcscrihed, iind hoimduil liy ridges havinj;
n N.W. and S.K. direction, inlroducwl us on tlie Ifilii to a hilly eoiuitrv for some niiiea ; tlie riiu;{e is
culled tlie Indian Mead; it contains many beautiful lakeland is well woodei'. Mere we met with
Charles I'ratt and party going to Red River. Charles I'riitt is n half-breed eateehist of tlic Church
Mistiionary Society, well acipiainted with the habits of Indians and of bulKdo, but apparently scarcely
Benaible of the imjiortanco of his duties and the responsibility of his charge. lie gave uu- a good
deal of valuable information respecting the country, and, with tharacterislic generosity, if not a
Christian sympathy, told John McKay to lake a young heifer belonging to him when we arrived at
the Mi-i.-^ion and kill it in honour of our arrival, i'ratt showeil me some specimens of lignite which
he had taken from a bed two feet thick at the Wood Mills about 80 miles south-west of the lliulson's
Bay Company's Post. Me described the hill or range of hills as an island in the prairie. I'robably
it was the remains of a tertiary coal bed, which, like the Stony Mountain near Red River, had
escaped denudation.

An ohi Indian accompanying Charles Pratt, born in this part of the country, told us that he
remembered the time when the whole of the prairie through which wu had passed since leaving l''(iit
Ellicc was one continuous forest, broken only by two or three narrow intervals of barren ground. The
view from the Indian Mead range is exceedingly benutiful ; it embraces an extensive area of level
prairie to the north, bounded by the Aspen Woods on the liorders of the (Ju'Appelle N'alley A

})orti()n of the old forest alluded lo by the Indian still exists on this range. It c<)n>i>ts of aspen of
nrge growth and very thickly .set. A liw cabri (proiig-hoineil antelope) were seen in the Indian
Head range; they used to abound in the country unwatered liy the (Ju'Appelle.

On Sat\u-diiy the 17tli we entered a very beautiful and fertile prairie at the foot of the Indian
Mead range, our course leading us inn northerly direction to the (Jn'Appellc Mis.sion. 'I'he eonunon
yarrow was very abinidani, and with the harebell reminded us of oilier seines far away. Six miles
iVom the hills we arrived at a subordinate, shallow, bioad valKy, parallel to that of ihe tiu'Appclle.
The a.spect (if its bound, irv sugi;eated the shore of a lake or l)ank of a large river. The lower prairie
coiisi-led of a sandy loam, in which the Indian turnip was very nbnndanl. We soon c.inie up wiili a
group of 8i|na\vs and children from the (Ju'Appelle Lakes, who were galhernig and drying llii- root,
whieli the (I'rers call the Mis-tnf-niii.i-se-ni'-iin, or big grass root. The Freneii half-bic'ds call il the
ponnne de ]irairie. The Sioux, 'rip-si-mih. It is an important arliele of food in llie>e re-;ions.
'i'he bolanic.il name i.-^ I'sumha is,-iilfntit. M iny bushels had been <(illeete<l by the si|n;i».s and
children, and when we came to their tenia they were employed in peeling the roots, cutting them into
shreds and drying tliein in the suu. I saw many routs as large as the egg of a ^oose, and among
those bronglil with me to Canaila are s(nne of even larger dimeusiinn. Tlie ( 'rers eonsnine this
imporl.int vegetable in variou.s ways. They eat it uncooked, or they boil it, or roasi it in the embers,
or drv it and crush it lo powihr, and make soup of it. Large (|iiamiiies are st<ned in biillido skin
bags lor winter use. A sort of pudding made -of the Hour of the root an<l the mesaskatomiiia berry
is verv p.datalile, and a favourite dish among the Plain I'rees.

■We reached the (Jii'Ap[)elle Lakes at (> p.m., alter i);issing through a magnilieent prairie the whole
day. In lael the eounlry north ol' the Indian Mead anil Chalk Mill ranges is truly beaulil'nl, ami will
one (lav become a very imporl.int tract. The Chalk Hills are a conlinualion of llie Indian Mead
raiii^e. In the language if the Indians ihey conlain hands of "soil while earth or mod. ' The liall-
bieeils call them "Chalk Mills.' It is a matter of regret that the time at our disposal did not permit
us to malic an esenrsioii lo them, notwilhstanding thai no indications of rocks in po-itlon were .-iei ii
on ilie Indian Mead ringo ; they were recorded as composed of drift, which may or may not conceal
rocks in position above the general level of the prairie north of them.

Cireat was our astonishmenl on arriving at the (Jn'Apiielle l^akes lo Iind that they were narrow
bodies of water, occupying an excavated valley about one nulo broad, "J.")!) feet deep, and dill'ering in
no imporlaiil p irtieular from the same valley at ils junction "itii liie A~sinnil)oine — I'JO miles
disiani bv ihe river, or l;i4 by the Ir.iil. 'I'he importaiiee of the (Ju'Ap|ielle valley b(\i;an to develop
iiself when the Crees at the Lakes informed ns that it continued ihroiigh the .Saskat(he«aii wiihout
lo.iin:; ils hreadlli, and mainlained, e.seept lor a short distance, a great dc|'.tli lielow the prairie levd.
I determined, therefore, to eXl)lore ihe whole valley from llie south branch of the Saskatchewan to
the Assinniboinc, and ascorlaiM iIk' relation il bore lo lliose river.J. Willi this view the eanoi s were
put in onler, the parly and supplies divided, and the arraiigornents detailed in tin; following paragruiih
completed.

Air. l)i('kinson, with a Krench Canadian and a Cree half-breed, was to descend ihe (Jn'.Vpiielle river
from the lir-t I'isbing Lake to ils mouth. .Mr. I'Icming and m\self were to ascend il from the same
starting place to ils source, and h)llow' up the valley to the Soiilh Hrancli of the .Saskatchewan.
Mr. Mime was to explore Long Lake uml meet Mr. Dickinson al Kort I'elly. I intended, upon
reaching the .Soiilh liranch, to descend lint magniricent river in canoe to the Grand I'orks, and then
by li.e main Saskalche'.van lo Lake Winnipeg and Reel River, a di^lance of about 1,000 miles canoo
navigation.

The (Jii'.\ppelle Mi.ssion is situated between the second and ihird Wishing Lakes. 'I ho situation
is hcaulilul, and the cunntry on all sides of a very novel and peculiar description. Mere the
(Ju'Appelle valley is one mile and a (piarler broad, and iJ50 feet deep. ih>tb nuitli and
sinilh a vast jiiairie extends, fertile, inviting, but treeless on the south, and doited with groves of
aspen over a light and sometimes gravelly soil on the north. Most beautiful and attractive, however,
are the lakes, four in number, and from the rich store of fish they contain, are well named ilie
rishlng Lakes. A belt of timber fringes their sides at the foot of the steep liillit they wash, for they

SASKATCMKWAN EXPLOIIINCJ EXPEDITION.

ft7

mid, and tlic

•idgcs Imviii));
till! riinj;e h
wc met with
' tlio Church
'iilly gciirci'ly
\c me a <;ood
illy, if not a
wf iirrivi'd at
lijjiiito which
thi' lliidsoii'a
a. l'ral)id)ly
l1 River, liail

I us tliat he
U'avini; I'ort
{jniunil. The
iiri'ii of K'vi'l

L- XMiv A
s of nspLMi (if

II tlic Indian

)f the Indian
'1 lie ronnnon
Six niiU'S
■ tiii'.\|)|iilli',
lower iiniirie
nil' ii|) will) a
inn ''"'* root,
•ds cull it the
iicsc ro;^iriii<,

si|ii:iws and
Mj; tlu'iii into
i", ;iii(l :ini(iiij»
cdMsiiiiu' this
1 the eiiihcrs,

hiifriilii skill
loiiiina herrv

rie the wlioie
itiil, and will
llidiaii Head
' The iialf-
d mil perinil
III were .-iei n
nut cunccid

w< re narrow
lilleriiii; in
-l-'(l miles
to develii|)
wall wilhoiit
irairii- ievil.
it( lieuaii to
•aiioi s wore
- [laragraiili

fill the entire breadtli of tiio valley. Ancient elm trees with lonf,' and di'o ipin:,' iiraiuhes hond over
llio water; tlio asii-leaved maple ac(|inre3 dimensions not seen since h'aviiif{ the lied lliver, and llie
Me-sns-ka-to-mi-na is no Ioniser a bush, l)nt a tree eiirhucn to twenty feet hi;{h and loaded with tlie
most lu^ciuuA fruit.

The Qu'Appelle Mission was estiiblished last year (|M.")8) I'or some time past, hiiwever, ( h:lrlc^^
Pratt, the eatcchisl, has resided where the Mission is situated, and has consti uclid a coml'ortable Ui'^
house, fenced in a jiardeii, and now posses>ei six or seven cows ami calveu. An old lialf-lneed, whose

name is oblilerated in my not

lip his residence with I'rall: he had been enfjiiijed for tlu

bolter part of his lile at diU'en'iit li^liinir stations belonf^ln^ to the lln(hon's Itiiy ConipMiiy throni^liont
Uupcrt'a Land, and he declared that in all his exjier ence he had never seen tiie white lish (cdniijiniiin
allius,) so larfje, nnmerons, and well flavored as in the (^ii'Appelle Fishing Lakes.

The Key. James Settee, the missiiinary, a native, ol' Swampy (^ree origin, occupied Pratt's Hiiiue:
hu arrived at the Mission last antnnin. In the garden, where wc liiiind hini, Indian c

ns well as potatoes, turnips, lieans, and other culinary vcgelnoU

orn was growing,
,'ra.-^.-lioppers had net yet

visited the Mission, hut vast llighls had (lassed over it. They wcie seen pa>^sliig the Coinpany's ptist,
!2() miles south, on the 8th of tlii' month. They were then living to the east. '1 hey had nii-Mil tin

Mission in I8.'>7, for tlicv visited the Toucliwdoi

eggs in the ground, and during the prcMUt s

Idii

I Hills
tl:

orty III hliy miles iioiili. and dei«)~itid ilieir

e voniij; brood, as

1 le

d a f.

iilter-

ward.s, destroyed all garden crop.* at the Touchwood llills, and on the 'J8tli .Inly t<iok their lllglit to
the south-east.

On Sunday we atteiuled service in I'ratt's house; the l!ev. Mr, Settee read the prayers in Kngli-h
with great ease and corrcclncss; he ]ireached in < Vphway, and a hymn wa< sung in the t'ri e liinL!uage.
Uefore l! f sermon ihe missionary surprised ns liy waking uii a ilrowsy Indian who was enjoying a
tpiiet imp in a comer of the rooiii, iiiid hading him to the li mporary reading (!c..l;. cciniincnced the
ceremony of iiublic haplisin. My aslonisliiiienl was not diiniiii>lu(l when the riverend gentleman
turning lo me, without any pridiminary notice, said ahriiplly, Name this imui I Alter a moment's

rellectlou I said, .lohu, and withmit any unnecessarv los.- of lime uv won

.hih

liked to Ills liciK'li.

nnd was soon apparently lost in iioi--y sliiinhcr to all consciousiu'-s of the prlvihges and blessings of
which adult t'hnslian baiitlsin, duly

(I, had made him tlie inlierit(

When the Key. .lames Settee arrived at the

III last aiitiiinii, the Clves of ll

idv Hi

having received intelligince that the bishop had sent a "praying man" to leach tin in the tiulhsof
irisliauity, directed messengers lo empiire whetlier '• the (ireal pr.iying fitlii r had sent plenty of

mm, if so, they won

hi:

III become f<i

jwers (it the white man s

initoii.

e mcssciiijeis

returned with the sad iiiti lligeiice that the grc.it |irayiii:; lalhi r had not only oiiiitteil to send

but III
for tl

I'd that ihe Plain (.'rees

iild

soon a

baiiild

on the practice of (Icmaiiiliii": rum hi i'Xchaii"X'

leir pemicaii an

ll rolii

Th.

me-sen";ers were direetid lo return

to ll

le missionary wi

annoiiiiccinen

t, that " If the great praying lalher did not iiiti nd to send any rum, the

his praying man away from the (iii'A|ipclle Lakes, the heller fir liii

lie are very few lenls alioiit llie Mi-sioii at I rex lit. Mr. Silt

lb Iho

\'Y he took

(Iiielillv,

and g(

'els throuidi ll

siiMce without lo-s ol tin

ire.seut promising

Wliiii conviisin^ with the t'liis of the Sandv Hills

'I'he (ield fur his labor Is exteii.-ive, Init not at

y of llieiii expres-ed a

wish lo liave their cbllilren laiiglit by white men. but they did not appiar lo like the idea of their

III

ly .1 native ol a dilleiint oiiyiii. Tlii' sclioul, hi

tan;,
n tribes, lo he ihe enly sure ground for < slalilisliiiii; tin' true I'm

ehiUlreu for two or lliice vcars, but let me follow the wavs ol inv liilher.-

|ipiars

here, as cUeHlu.u

iinoiii; lliem.

Teach

lid the son of the Chii f of

I hi

ills to me.

Mil

cxpiessdl a » i^ll that their Utile ones should know llie while n

cunning, and learn lo dillivate the soil, but they w(aild sllpnhite lo riiiiain thcinsilves still the wild
priiirie Indians, hnnling the hiillahi. and occasionally tasilii;i the savage exeitcnienl of war.

(In the •Jlllb ,Iii|y we laiimhxl our <'aiiocs on the Third lisli

Lake

Mr. Ill

III rinile for l.oi
Mr. Dickin.son

l.aki

my carls and horses on tiie way lo the (ir.iiid links of the (Oii'Ap|ii

started lor the iiioulh of tl

Mr. I

l( miiig am

I nn self with an Olihwav and

L'ree hall-biced, paddled up stream with a view lo trace out the valley to its jiinetion with ihc Smiili
branch of the Saskalrhcwan. '1 he succeeding cha])ler Kintains a narrative of this ixploratioii. which

followed by Mr. IViekinson's descrlpllun ol his c

nine \ovii<;e lo ll

sinuilioine.

ariMie'cd lo

meet at Port Ellice forty-three (lays after our siinultancoiis diiiarliire from the 'lliird 1'ishi.ng Lake

.ppelle river
nil the same
katchewan.
iiiled, upon
:s, and tlien
miles canoe

:ie situation
Here the
north and
groves of
I', however,
named the
sli, for they

CHAPTKH III.

rilOM MIK (Jl' .M'lT.I.I.K .MISSKIS 1(1 '1111'. ^;(ll■TII llli.WCIi Of THE S.\SK.\1 Clll:W AN.

Depth oC I'lshiiig Lukes— Cross Sections— Coiil'i r\ a— 1. oh, r I.iikcsGli fcit deep— Uii(l>---Vc^clat Ion— wiitcr-
inark— 'riiir.l and l-'nurlli I'lsliin^ Lakes— fi-li—SninuliM^'s In I'mirtli I ukr— I'islilii;.' Lakes pi.ihalily .na'o
iinltcil— (Iccse— relieaiis— I'lunih Luke— Wiitcr-niiiik— .\s|cct of Viillcy In IN.'JJ— (i.i'.\p|M 1|..' It'lvci —
I'lMirle— Depih of Valley— Wliilc Ca'aiiu.s— Sc.tieii ot .\llavial Plats-Tcnipcratui-,— lli.uacU r ( I Prairie
—Birds— Slinibs—.\iilclo|ic— Hare— Hoses— (iriiiul f'laks- I'laiii ( rccs— riiiipciatiire of Itlvcr- "

, -I'laiii ( rccs—

marks— lUiHalo 'IVacks— Cliaractcr of Sticaiii— UIIIoh raisins- ]'( tid Air
men's Houses — Prairie — Waiildl'rinihei— ■flniiulir .Stiiiiiis — 'rmu IihuoiI Hill

b
Diil'l flay — laialics — Pice-

11,, ,, ^..ii.ioii, — I i.iiiii- — ,, iiuiiii 1 iimier — i iiiiiuur .■Miiiiiio — iiiiKii» uiiii mils — liiili:ii,s Till Is D.pioLiiiicy

Indiiin Resolve— 'I'lio Grand Porks— Long Lake— Souris Porks— Soui is of (jnWipi lie and .\'siiiii|l)(iiiii_

IIRI'OUTS OF TIIR ASSINNIBOINE AND

Qiiticnsion« <'f \'nllny— Tln' Gniml Coltnii — Prairie I'ireii — Inilian Signii — A Prniriu on Firo — HiilTiilo—
t')ii«i(liii'ii(t' of I'niiric l''iin — Ki'cliiniiiliim M' Sterile Arcii — Imliiiii IVIi'({r,i|(li— Sfuriiiy i>(' Wiiml -^
Amit'iil Indian lviuiim|irii'iit— Tlif I'liiiii I'ri'os — ( iic 'I'liili — I'mviniuiK — IliiHalii I'liiiml Hill I.iiki —

I'laiii-

Imlianii '^lioftHtick — A«(Mct iil' l'i)iiiitry — (lutiMiii tic .MinKiiiiri I, ail Miiiiniaiii — 'IrrcliiN

(iraiiil I iitiuu — Cliaract.r of — lliifFalii — ItiriU — I'lain Cri't'H, ('aiii|i ol'—Tlu Uii'A|>|i'll« V'alltn — Marrmv
— I'rioantions — Sumlv IIill^--t"rel•» — Hois do Vatlii- — Salt Lake — Diiiii'iisidiiii ol' Xailuy — l>ralic» —
Indian Ilosiiitulity— I\vi-l)row Mill — Sunrm of Ua'Appi'lIc — llnll'ald— Cliaractcr ol (in'A|i|iclli' Valley—
Wator-niarks — Sandy IlilU — Distriliiiiion oCllonldt'rii — Section — lloik Kx|miinrt' — Siiormiick — Hand Dunuii
— S(^iitli llriincli- The (ln'A|)|icllc Valley — free ('ain|i — lleiulilol' I„ind_S«cti(m ol' V.ilUy — Levels —
Untt'alo Ponnil •- ('(ini|) Moving— ' Dead Men'— Old lUitliiln I'oiind — Ilorrilde Spcclacle — N'wl'onid--
llrinjfini; in llurtalo — Slaujjliti r in I'onnd — Slinrtntiek — •' Talk " — OlijeetioiiH tn llMll'-lireed* — To tliu

ni ni^ing in iiiiniicp — .-»lilu^ml r ni louuu — tTiiuriniieR — iiiiK — i'i)|eeiiunH in iiiiii-nreenA — to
H. II. Co. — Sliortmick'u Wuntn — Unck tAjiosiire— llnuldcrs in Valley— i nanicter of the Sniitli llrniieli

'riiree-()iuirters (if a mile friiin llie niontli of tlie little streiiiii joiiiiiij^ ihu Second nnii T'liinl l'i-liiii|^
l.akeit, tile liuil slioweil 44 feet of water. T'liis ureal ileptii suijiriscd us, as we liiul been |iiiil(lliti){
since leavnij; the Minxion in nlialiows not exeeediiij; four anil live feet in deplli. Cross seeiiont
8iilise(|Ueiilly iniide showed that the lake* were );enerally deip on the north and shallow on the miiiiIi
*ide. An iil)iiiidant growth of ({leeii confervie eovered the snrliice, which, in its aj,'^;ref{iition» and
(<eiieral distrihnlioii, reminded me of u similar profusion on the Lake of Woods during Aiignxl, in
1857. I he hill sides of the vallev are deeply ravineil; two excellent pliotoj.'iapli.s, taken mar the
Mission, of the lakes and hill.s, display the chief chaiaeleristic of the valley with the (ideliiy
which can only he approiiclied by that wonderfnl art. The ravines are wooded, lint the hills they
separate liiiie, and Me soon nollred that the north .side liegiin to show far less tiniher than the siinth,
and of more stunted growth. The snow berry was seen in every hollow. .\sh-leavcd maple ,'iiid elm
were numerous on the south side of the lake.

Soundings near the middle of the lake showod .Mi feet, "liich, when added to "Jl!* liel, the depth
v.illey lieio" the prairie a.s ascertained by trigoimmetrieal mea.siiremeiit, make the toiiil cxcava-

lave hail their I'vrie liir many years in a fiiie
I he hop grows very liixiirianlly in the thin
grape hangs in luaulifnl fe.sloon.s froni the drooping
lows that thirt lake risi's six to .seven (eel above its

alls the I'liird Iruiii tlii' I'oiirlh Lake. It is the delta

01 till' .,,i.\^, •... ,.... |< ... ....v.. >.•..■■.. V* .'J .• ■.^... a. ...iv .• ...... ...<,(...... I... ill, ■■>i,n,. Ill, (mill I.\C11>)1~

lion t!Oj feet. Another soiiiidiiig, "JOO yardrt Irom the N.W. point, gave .iT feit of water Thin w im
the greatenl depth we obtained; but Mr. Dickinson liiniid the lower lakes to be lifi feet deep. The
shores ol gr.ivel are strewed with blocks of drill limestone and ilie unfossihferon.s rocks, (inlls ari

nmni'rons about these remote lakis, and a pair of eagles ' ' ' "' ''

elm tree, near the west end of the lliinl Kishing Lake,
belt of wooiLs on the south !<ide, and tile frost
hraiiches of the elm. The waler-inark s
present level.

;V low jilaleaii, inmidaled every spring, scpai a.. , .... — .... ,,„, . ,, i.^ uu. ,

of two r.ivines which in ilie spiiiin and Untnniii bring clown ii l.nge ipinniity of water from ;he pr ■

above. Third I'isliing Lake is coiinecled with I'oiirtli risliiiig Lake by a rapid stream llowiii!.' thidn.i-h
the plateau, ahmil HHI fei I broad. .\t il.s mouth we saw a large nnmlier of (isli rising at llie grass-
hoppers which dropped from lliglits of tlice insects passing over at the lime. In the same stream
wire many lar^e fish, and anioiiL' them several iiidividie.ls of a specie^ to which Inrlher relireiiee will
lie made. Soiinilings in the I'onrili J..ake showcil .'i 4 feel ; this depth wa- maintained (or a lung dislanee
with great regularity. In faol, these lakes appear to be nearly niiil'ormly deep and point to an
excavating force, or peculiarity of rock forn'ialion desi rving of fnrllier eni|nirv. Il;e deltas at the
niniith of the ravines coining in from the prairie at right angles to the geiural course of the v.illev
give a elue to tlu> mode in which the lakes were separated oni' from the other. It is very probable
that they were niiee all united.

(ice.-e al)pcared in large (locks in the I'ourlh Lake, and at its wi'stirn end we saw a splendid (lock
of pdicin.s. nniiiheriiig thirty-five individuals; a^ we approached they >ailed majesliiallv round and
round, but took (light before we arrived within gun shot. .Magpies are verv nnnnrous in the thin
wcMids fringing the lakes, so ;ilso are gr.ickles. the cat bird, and many sm:illrr birds. The I'ourth
Lake is very shallow at its western extremity, six Ceil being (he greatest ihpth recorded. The hills
on the iiorlli side are (|nile bare, and trees on the south siile are (oiiiid only in the ravines. It is full
of weeds and its water emits a very disagreeable odour, but the water-marks show that dniiiii,' spring
freshets its level is eight feet higher than in the suinnier season. This is an iiiiporlant (act when
taken in connection with the alleged appiaraiiee of the wlicde valley during uet springs; it is llii'ii
said lo rescnilile a broad rivir from a (ew miles east of the Saskatcliiwaii to the Assinnihoine. In
lf."cj. a year iiiemuialile in Rupert's Land lijr the great (loods which eovircd an iniiiiense trael id'
country, the Indians repre.-eiir the (^u'.Appelle Valley as fillii! with a migliiv river ilnongliout its
entire length, (lowing with a swift current from the lakelets at tin' height of land, soon tn be
described, to tiie .\-siiiiiil)oine. and as a nioinitain torrent through the short distance o( 1 -J miles which
sepaiiiles them from the .South Hrancli of the .Saskatchewan.

.M'ler having the I'onrth Lake and the marshes at its west extremity, wc |iaddled, saih'd, or trarkiil
np a narrow swit'i stream, (liiir and (ive feet deep and seventy feel hroad, winding tlndiii,di a low
Hlliivial (lal in a \,illey of iimliminislied breadth and de|ilh. The hill sides wimc ahsolnlelv liaie, not
a tree or slirnb w,is to be seen. The prairie on either sale is .ilso treeless and arid. On the "J 1st, ,ifter
spendinir a restless night owing to the attacks of imiltitndes of inosiiniloes, We left ihe cnioe in the
hands of our hall' breeds lo Iraek up the sti ram, and aso'iiding to the prairie walked (iir some miles on
the brink of this great excavation. We wailed live hours for the canoe to reach u.s, the windings of
the stream invidving a course three times as long as a straight line np the valley. T'lie hill sides
L'gaii lo ae(|iiire ii more iinposiii',' .iltitnde and (iroliably exceeiled three hundrecl feet. White cranes
appciied in lloel;.s o( lour and seven logeilier ; they were very wary and conld not be approached,

lear to cither side of the Great \'alley, and it had exeuvated a

The river was often seen to draw tier

SASKATCIIFWAN EXPLORING EXrKDITION.

ohannvl ten to twolvo font (li'0|i in ilu' nlluviiil tliitt tliroiigli which it puraiiod its tortuoiii courni'^ Its
hnnkn rcvoiiled tlie following s clion ; •

(I inches light vuf{ntublu mould witli aiind,

i^. lull
.■<|iiinL;

rl will'll
i.s ihi'ii
in
tnicl 1)1'

llnllt itl4

n to l)c
[•S wliii'li

tiMi kc(l

a liiw

aiT, not

>l, al'lt-r

in llic

nilcs on

(linp« of

1 r-idcn

ciiini's

4 inchiH yt'liciw cliiyi
10 inMiL'i iiglit Vfj^etaltlo inouiii (lormer ii(irfuci')i

II tort vi'llow clay,

'i to a inchc.i luird ferruginous iiiiul tn the level
ol' the river.

'I'hc Inst liiycr wiih Imrd, loniimct, and very coaisc-graincil. The river i» here <I0 feet broad and
llnwx lit n nito of one mile and a half an hour. The totuperatureat noon wn* TI..'!" V. At the mouth
of I.onf; Creek, an insij^niticant artliient, the hilU are covered with limestone and granite hoiilders;
the north side is treilens like tlii' vast prnirip beyond it; the south nide has nspcn» in the ravines and
nepen j;rove« in the prairie. 'I'Im' width of the valley remains uniform, never exceediuf,' om; mile and
n (piarter or Ichh than one mile. The pasturage in the flats is superb, the grnsa long and very thickly
iPt llohins, magpie<, and yellow birds enliven small aspen groves on the south .side, or llie thickets
of eherrv, mcsaskotomiiwi, dogwood and siiowberry, which (ill the hollows atid ravines; the cat ' '•:■[
is id<o coiiunoii and the tyrant lly-calcher everywhere. In the river are vast numbers of clucks and
geese; the yoimg birds Irccpienllv made us an excellent meal, but no four-footed animals were seen,
with the esccption of one prong horned antelope and one praiiie hare,

III the aficrnooii "f thi.-i ilay we made iii.iiiy miles liy sailing before a strong ea«t wind ; notwiih-
slanding a heavy rain and lliuiKlcrslorm we were ylad to push on tlii'ougli this .si'einingly iiil>'i-
minable and now moiiotonous vi'Mcy, as the air from the marshes on either side of the river was fetid
and oppre<sive. A scrambh^ to the summit of this stci'p hill laink, three hundred feet liii^ih, ihoiigli
veiv taiigiiin'.;, was amply rcjiaid by the cool, puri' and deli!,dilfiil breeze blowing ov<m- the de-ol.ue
jiiairies .iiMind lis. Hoses of tliice ililli ri'iil v.ini fie^. red, white and variegated, were numeidiis on
the upland, aiitl, in the mmniiiL', when the dew was on ilnin, or at night when it »as tailing, the
frrsli air I'roiii above came down in putVs into our dee|i hot v.ilh'y with dolicioiis and invigoriliiig
I'ragi.ince (hi the 4th day lifter lair depniliMe from the lakes we siglili d the (iraiid l''orks; leaving
the caiMic I hastened nil to a point where the men with the earls and horses were to await our arrival,
and loiiiid them safely eii'.'am|ied on a beaulifiil meadow anxiously looking lor uti. Ati empty cart
ami a couple of hor^'S wen ('es|iatclied for the eiinia^ still some miles below U8, and in the evening;
we were joiiud by Mr. I'leming ami the two voy.igenrs.

Smoii alter siin-ei our camp received nv inn xpected addition of six I'lnin I'rees, who were on their
WHV t'l I'ort r.lliee with dried biilliilii meal and jicmicaii. During the d.iy the teinpernlure of the
liivcr was loiind to be 71'. At the mouth of a dry bed of a stre.im which we called .Maple Crci k,
some veiv old trees of the a>h-leaved s|ieiii s \\t •■ obsirvi'd. Many of tlicin showed ni.irks ,\liere
tliev h.id been t.ipped. The willows wliicli IVinged the banks of tie' (Ju'Appelle were barkid bv ice
ei^iil feel above the surface of the water. Niuiierous bulDilo tracks began to appear, and wiiere tin .-"e
animals ha<l cro-si d the ri\er, they had cut c|.<'p roads to the water's edge, and lanes tliroilgh the
willow Ini-lii-. The bmu* of many a young bull and cow were seen sticking out of the banks where
ihev had Ijccii mired.

The torliiiiiis I haiaeler of the sireani la lore we took the canoe out of the water, may be imagined
frnm the I'ari that eleven bonis constant, steady tracking enabled us to progress only five miles in a
str,iii;ht line through the valh'V. Some little time was lost in i rossing fnaii one side to the otlier in
order to avoid the willow bushes, which only grew nn the inside of a bend, rarely or nevir on the
oiit-ide (U' longest curve. The breadth of the river where we left it was forty feet, and the speed of
its iiirreiit one inlli' and .i ipiarter an hour. The I'etiil air from the marshes made most of the partv

f"cel iinwill. and I thereli leteniiiiied to i-ury the eanoe in a cart on the iiinu'diate edge of the

praii ie, kei ping th.e valley in constant view, and occasiiaially descending inlo it and crossing it, to
ascertain by levelling and measureiiu lit its leading dimensions.

No rock exposure has yet been seen. It appears that drift covers the eimntry to a great depth.
Where land slips have occurred and exposed an almost perpendicular section, the yellow gravillv
cl.iv is alone visililc. Some of' the lime-tone erratics striwed over the sides of the ravines reseinble
those f'reipu ntlv si en on the snutli-c a-t side of Lake Winipeg. Near our camp are six or seven log-
hoiises, iieeasjiindlv inhabited by firrni'ii ( ih-M is, men no longer in the service of the {'onip.,nv.)
during the winter months, 'i'lie prairie above the iVcemcn'- houses slopes gently to the edge of the
valiiv from the distant horizon on both siih>. {'Iiinips of .ispen vary its monotonous aspect, and
llioimh cliiihed with ereen lu'rbage, due to the lali' abundant rains, the soil is light anil poor. Some
distance back lioiii the v.ilhy it is of betler i|iiality, the filler partic'hs not having lieeii washed out
of it ; till' grass there is longer and niiuf abundant, but tlie greatest drawback is the w.int of timber.

Siir e we have been on llie CJoWppelle we have fVcipieiilly noticed thiinderstoi ills towards the
north-wisl and north, in the inighhciurhood of the Touchwood Hill range, which did not reach ii- ;
the day belore yesterday. ( :i-'iiil .Inly.) a very violent ihuiiderstorni in the (iii'.\)ipelle valley, whieh
delaved lis for scviral hour-, did not wet the carts ten miles to the smith. Hain clouds appear to
follow the Touchwood Mill range; the frei(ueiicy of storms in ll;vt region is proverbial, and the
richness of the vegetnlion jiroves that an abundant supply of rain falls (Hiring the hot summer months.
The Indians who \isiled our camp had been hunting between the two branches of the Saskatchewan
. — they represented the season as very dry and the IniHalo scarce. We passed a i(uiet and biendiy
night with ihcm, and on the following morning made them a small present and pursucil our wuv to
the (irand Forks.

I happened to be about I Oil yards in advance of the carts, after we had travelled for about .".
ipiarter of an hour; wlien Inuring a loud clatter of horses' feet behind ine, on looking round 1 found
the six Indians t;.ill(i|iing ii[) li hind. One of them, who had represiiited hiin-elfas a chief, seized ."v
bridle, drew the horse's head round, and motioned nie to dismount. I replied bv jerkieir my bridle

11 2

ina'ouTs or iiik assinniboink an'd

,i I

out oi' llii' liiiliiiM s \m\i\. My ii(Mi|)l>' (i\im> ii|) III ilii iiDiiiriii iiiid a<k('il ill Cri'i' wlint this inter-
lin'111'c ini;iiii. \^^• waiilfil li'i Inivc ii liulc nioii' liillv, Hiiiii ilii' c()i-ilii<iiiil cliii'l'. I'lii' riMJ stiitf of tlio
iiisf liiiii,', liciwi vrr, lliiit lliov "inln'il lo t.-<l»lili-.li ii sort ol' toll of lohiu'co ami tni for |ii'niiiHiiioii to
ii;iii!< lliioiif;li llirii' riiiihlry, tlircalciiloLC lliat if It vuTO not Kivcii llicy woiiltl pcallicr llivii' fiicndi* in
aiivanci' ol ni, ami mop »'* liy force. Wi- kninv llial we kIiouM liavci to piss tlii<iiii,'li alioiil !()(( teiitH,
to IJiiTi' was nonic lilllc tiiratiiii;,' in lln' llniMl. 'I'lif old Inint.T, iiinvi'Vcr, who kninv Indian ImbilH
and ilijiloiiiai'V will, al ouoc rrninki'd llial \\v were taking' ii lar),'e present lo llie eliief of the Sandy
llilU, and wi' ,<lioidd mil ih^lnhute any loliai'eo or tea nnlll we had seen him, aei'ordinfj to Indian
en-Unn 'I'licv trie I a few more tliri'ai-, hut 1 ilo-ed tlie parh'y hy nn'linffinj,' a donlile-harrelled una
from ihe (Mil, and iii^<liiielin^' the ni'ii to iliow i(nii'lly ihal tliev had theiit in readinemj wi!thinj< iho
raseaU noo I dav, wi' ni nihed iiii ; they sat on the Ki'nnnd, mlenlly walcliinn lis, but made no i>ij<n.
Ill the eveiiinj; line of lliein pasied near i^ al full f;allop, towardn Home lenln which wi' saw in the
distanie, as we aseeialed the lull at liie tirand I'orkH. One rather sinnilieant slalenieril they niadii
iiroveil lo be eonect, iiaim ly, thai the I'liin trees in eoiimil a-M'inbled, bail last \o.ir " delermiiied
thai in eoii-eipienee of proini-es ollen in iile and broken by tlio white nun and hall-hreeiU, and llie
laliid ilesirueiion liy ihein of llie bnll.ilo lli. y h d on, ihey would mil permit eillur while incn or half-
breeds to hmil in their eoiiiiliy or travel tlirmigli il, exce|)t lor the purpose ol Iradiii;,' for their dried
me it, pemican, -kins and robes."

We enissid to the north side ol ihe (iii'Appelle wlini we ai rived at the (Iran 1 I'orks, and a-eemled
the hiil hank t I the prairie. The drand I'oik- eon-i-t of the jiiiielion of Iwo dnp, broad valley.s ;
the soiilli vallev Inlii;,' that in wliieli llir Q»' \pp. Ili' iiver (lows, ihc olliir is oeeiipud by l.oiif,' Lake,
or La.-il .Mounl.iiii lake. I.iiy mile- in li nulli, and Irom one-half to two mile- bmad, biinj; in laet an
exael eouiiterparl ol'llie tin'Api'elle Naliev, ii.irrow. deep, (illiil lliriiiinlioiil wiili w.iti r, and inoseu-
latin" Willi llie South Uraneli of the Saskafehewan some miles bilowihe Klliow, In its frcncral
aspect Last Moniitaiii Lake is similar lo the I'i-hin;; Likes. \ rapid, wiodin;,' stream, .'ID I'cel broad,
runs iVoin it into ihi. (^i'.\ppi lie. I'otli valleys are of nnironn brciidlli and doptli, and vi ry liltio
narrower thai) when iioiled ila'y form llie miiii valley of the (jaWppelh'. Irom llie liraiid I'orks to

the .'^oniii I'orks ( Klliow Hone Creek) llu' e itry is treeh'-s, sli'jhtly nmliililiii:,' and poor, 'i'lie

Indians sav that the Sonrin Itiver of the (^i'.\ppille, eoiiiiiii; from lli" (iraiid C'otean dc .Mi-sonii,
inoaenlates V illi an arm of the ."^lairis ol the As-iiiniboine before di .■'crilied, and a < aiioi' ii: liij^h
water mijlit pa-s from laie river to the oilier witliont a port i^;e. If this be ilie e.ise, the diversion
of the waters of the .^oiith br.inih down the (iii'.\p|i /lie X'alley would aeipiire addition, il iiu|iorl men
and "ivo value to an iininen-e exluiil of leirilory, now eomparitividy inaeeessible, uiul deslilntu of

**'n'ei', , . . ...

A few miles we.-t of the Sotirls I'ork.i llie i}n ,\ppelle is inneteeii leet wide and one and a half feet
deep, bill the JIK'al valliy is still a mile broad and '.'nn I'.cl diep. I lire on the •-'.'itli we e.in^iht u
■.dinip-e of the blue outline of llic (irand ( .le.iu. m illi a treeic -s plani belween ns. After passiii),'
~lii'-e Forks, ihe eoniitry is more nndiilatin;.' ; iiiiill hills bejfiii to -how iheinselves ; the jjenei.d eha-
raeter of the Hoil is li^lit .mil poor ; the herb.i^e eoh>isls of hliort tiiltid bnlliilo u'r.is*, and the pliilitt)
eoinnrm in dry arid plains. 'Tins alUTiioon wc .siw three lins fpriii:,' up between ns and the
lii.ind t'otean." 'I'hiywire Ind.an >ii.;iis, but win llier they referred to the pre,eiiee of bnlfalo. or
whether lliev were dc-i;;iied to iiitimite to di-lanl band- the arrival of sii-pieion- -lran;,'er... we eoiild
not then tell, and not knowiii;,' whether lliey were C'lei -, .A-similhoiiie», or IJl.iekfeet, we became
eintious. In a few day I wc aseritaiiied thai the lire had been put oiil' by fiifs, to inl'oriii their
fricni!> that lliey had foii.nl bullaie.

The '.iiaiideiii of a praiiic on fee belonj.'s to itself. Il is like a volcano in bill aelivily. you cannot
iuiilali' it, bo • iii»e it is impos-i!jlc to obtain tho-e ;jiL;iiiitic elemeiils (r.iai which il derives its awful
.-iileieloar. I'ortiinatciv, in the |in'>eiil in-tauce the wind wa.-, from the west, and drove the lires in
the oppo ite direction, and beiiij; soolli of lis we eonid eonlenipl.ile the iiiaL;iiificent i-pcctacle wilhoiit
aiiNielv. ( )ne object in bnrniii'4 the prairie at this time, was In turn the bnll'alo ; they had ero-»i'd
the .S.i'-Katchewaii ill '^reat nnniber- lie ir the I'.lii iw and were iidvanciii^ toward- ns. and ero--iii},' the
(in'.Apiiclle iiol fir from the hei^lii of l.nel. l!y baniiii.; the prairie e,i>t uf their emir-e they wonld
be ili\eile(l t> the -outh, and feed liir a lime on the liraiid C'otean before they pursued their way to
the Liltl' .'^oini-, in tiie conn:ry of the Siou.\, -outh of ihe I'.Mli pir.iUel.

l'u!ti!i'.' out lire in the prairi's is a tcleLTiMpliie mode ol eommunic ilion lii'ipiently resorted to by
Indi.in-. I;s eon>e,pieiiees are seen in the de-iruclion of the foresis whicli laice covered an iminense
are.i soiiili of the l^n.-Vpi elle and .\ssiniiil)oiiie. The aridily of tliu-e v,i-t prairies i- partly due

to this cause. The soil, thoiii;h li^dit, derives liineli of its appiieiit sterility ficm the a al tin s.

In low pi ices and in .-hallow depu .s.-ioiii where ni-,irslie.s are foiimd in spring,', the soil i- rii h, much
mi\eit with ve.;ct:ible nutter, and ^llpporlsa very lii.xiiriaiil crovvtli of jfra-s. If willows and a-peiis were
permitted lo itrow over the prairie-, lliey would somi be convened into humid Ir.icts in which ve^je-
lalile mitler would aceinniilale, and a sod adapted lo forest trees be formed. If a portion of pr.nrie
escapes lire for two or thice veiis the n.-^nlt is seen in llie^'iowili ol willows and a-pens, lirst in
piilele -, tlicii in larne areas, which in a short lime bee onii? uiiiltd and cover ihe eonuiry ; llni- re-
lardiii;; evapoialioii and perinittiiifr the aceiiuuilation of vegetable matter in the soil. .A fire conies,
de-trovs the yomii; f irest f;rowlli and e.-lalilishi s a prairie once more. The reelamalion of iniincnse
are.is is iiol lievoii I liunian liower. 'liie extension of l!ie prairies i- e\idenlly due to lires, and the
(ire- are ean-ed bv Indians, chielly for the piir|iosu of telei,'iapliie eoiiimiinicalion, or lo divert the
linlf.do fruiii the eoinse lliey iii ly bi' takiiii;. Thee oper.itions will ceate as the Indians and bulliilo
.li;uinl,-li, events v.liie!- are taknii; place with ^rrial rapidity.

Wo.id ben.iii to be a f,'re,it trci^uii' ill the prairie after pa-sinj; llie .Moo-e .l.iw.s l''oik>; ve were

* A lialiVL- v.\lirc"

' [Mil , ul lire," ttJi^nilics lo M't llu.- pr.iiiii. on liru.

SASKATCIIKWAN KXPI.(>Bf«» MEPITHTION.

fil

ponipi'llocl lo p[o iiii|)|>orl»'«n lo lu-d on thoniKlit (il llf '^*i)) iura iiw iw )tn<l iicf^lcrlcil to tnkc ii siipply
III tin- liiHl im|"'ii urovf we piisHftl, tliiiikiii); tliiit li^"' lis 'I. v r,.|ii,' diiiftit biillliloiliiii^j would Ih' rmind
ill iiliiindiiiici', 1)111 tlu" (lit'i liiid liunird it iiUo, iiiml ir.i v i-n n friijiiiK'ii^ win to !)<• piociiri'd No Irri'
or dIii'iiIi, or I'vi'ii willow twi^ coulil lie situ in niiv tlirrwuiii I'l'Hu omv i\m\i\i on llic iiioiiiing of tliu
•Jdlli. Oiir ciiHloiiiiirv limikliist of ten mid Iniiriil- iiicaii wuk impdntHijIdi' \Vu liiiil lo contrnt our-
HiiK't's witli iini'dokrd priuii'iiu mid uali'i' li'oiii ii iiiiir'<li,

liiiniciliiiti'lv on till' liiinkiH of the (iirAppcIji' Vii)i. y tii'rc iiic tin- iciiiiiiiH ol' iimii'iit ciicaiiipinrnta,
wliPl'O till' I'liiin ('rert, ill till' liny of llicir powiT mill piidi> IiikI orcotcd liii^f skin tl•ll(^, and stivii){-
tliviii'd lln'tn willi rini;'* nl' utoiirs pliiccd round llif lime. 'J'lioo (Mrciiliir rrnmiin were •_'."» H-ct in
iliiiiiirtt'i-, llii' (iliinrs iir liiiiilili'r'< Iniii^ iilioiit mi' loot in cii'Ciiiiii'iM'inRr. 'I'licy wurc tlii' if^jirrt of
gri'iil iintiiinity, liciii^ piirli.illy trovind willi ."ml mid ^rani. Winn tliiMiiiinp ground Wiis occiipii'd liy
tlu' (.'ii'i'!*, liiiilirr no doiilil fjirw In llii> viillcy Ixlow, or im tlu' prairii- mid ravinun in di'tailidii ^roVi'M,
lor llu'ir pi-niiaiiriit cmiipiii;^ uroiimh arr always piait'd near a -iipply of fiiil.

.Making an early ^larl in M'.iii'li of wood, wi- cmiii' middfiily upon linir Crei' leiit-i, wjioii' inniatrii
were still la^t a^lpi'p ; alioiit •"ino y.irdn wc>t of llii'in wc loiiiid 10 iiiuri' ti'iil", witli over oO or (iO
InilianH in all. I'liry were (ircpirMijj to cri).'<-i the valley in tli.' iliii'ition of llic (irand t'oleaii,
followiii,' till' l)iill!ilo. 'I'lieir pron'<ioin for trade, hiicIi as dried meal ii'id pemieaii, were diiiwn by
diii;-<, eiieli liiiij ol' peinieaii liein;,' -npiKiiied upon two loll;; polet, wiiieli me «liaft, lioily, and wlieisU
in one. ItiiD'ilo I'oiind Hill Lake, !I"J miles loii'i, lie-ins ne.ir llie Mone .laws I'ork"", mid on the
oppo-ile or soiiili Hide of lliis Ion;; slieet of walor we saw \K leiils and a I iri;i) iininlior of Imrses.
'I'lie wiinii'ii ill llio-i' we visited on our siile of tlie vadiy and i:ike liad eolleeted a ^'le.it (|nmililv of
tlie .Mesa-koloiiiiiia lierry, wliii'ii llii'V were diyiiii;. 'I'liev aiilioiini'id the ilieeiini; intelll;;LMii'e tliaC
(lie (lilef ,'^liiMt'lirk, hIiIi Miiiii' .'ID ti iil.s, was at llie Siiidy Hill' inipoiiiidin;; linllalii. I.ea' ill}; lliu
liospllalile C'rees, afier an I'Xielleiil lin'.ikfi'l on pauiiilel iniat and iiiirrnw fii, wf miiveil at lliilliilu
I'oiiiid Hill at iiiMin. I'll.' wlioli' eoiiiitry liiu'e assiiiied a dlll'ereiil - ipearanee; it now lior reniin-
lilanee to a stormy «ea suddenly lieeoiiie rii;id ; tlie liills were of |;r,i.el and very aliriipt, liiit none
I'xeeeded 10(1 feel In lieijrlii The Coti'in de Mis-niiri i< eleirly sei'ii from liiilfar I'oiinil Hill
towards llie sonlli, wlille iiortli-ea-lerly llie Last Mountain of llie ToiicliwoDd Hill Uanjre looms j;ray
or liliii- in till' di taiiee. llelweeii tlie-e dislaiil raii^'es a IreeliS' plain interve.ie.s,

'llie (iimid (olean runs pirallel witli the .Mi^soiiii ; its average liri'iiil: i is (iO to HO mile-, and it
rises fi( nil liKMii Mi>it feel iiliove llie 1)1(1 of tlie ";reat river illlaiiks ami between i(ll) to MO i ,,it
abive llie lil'.di plains iliriiii\di wliieli lliu Sli lyeiine and .lames Hive.' meander to llii' lied Kiver . dm
iiortli and llie Missouri.* 'I'l.e vei^itation on ibe (ir.iiid ( 'oteaii is vi'ry ^callly, llie Indian .i r, ip U
eoiiiiHoii. so al-e is a speiies of eietiis J no tree or sbriil) is seen, and il is only in the bolt iii« mid
marslie^ lli.il nuik lierl>:i;ri' is found.

I'liinj.. and lakes ai'i' iimiicidiis on tlie ( irand ( 'ntean side, and il ii probably on ,ii> ;^ eoiiiit that llie
biiniilo eros, llie (jn'Appelle N'alley mar tlie Moii-e .laws |''iiik and we-t of IbllFa i I'oi ad Hill Like;
indie winter liny keep tovards tbe 'roiieliwood Hills for llie s.ike of sibi II, r, and llie exiellent
berb.i};e wlmli ;^roAs in ilir beanlifiil iiiea lows between llie aspen eliimp-. Tbe prairies tbire too are
not Ml (ifii II binned as siiufb of the (^ii .\ppelle, tile valley of tliat river serviii;.' as a ;rreat biirier to
prevent tlie onward proj;iess of tbe deviist.iliiiL; (lie. We bej; in to lliid tlie fre-b bone, of bulllilo
Very iiiiliii roii.j mi tb' urnnml, and here and llien; sMitleil a pack of wolves fe.illni; on a earea.ss
wliieli bad been deprived of Its toiiyiie and bump only by the ear less, tlirifiless frees, I'llicalis and
dm ks aie SI en in vast niiiiibeis on ilie lake, while on the lii;;li baiiks of the valley the remains of
aiieieiil eneampmenls in the fm'iii of rln;,;s of stones lo liold diiuii the .skin lens belli}; everywhere
vi.slble. tislily lo llie former nniiiliei s ol the I'lalil Crei's, mid alliird a s.id evldeuee ol the aneieiit
pioNe.' Ill' the people who oiiee held iliidi. puled sway from the Mi--oiiri to the .■sa>katehenaii. Tlie
rein.iiiis of a raee fist p,i"iii>; away give more than a tran-ieiit iiileriiit to liiill'alo I'oiind Hill Lake.
Tbe la'-'^'r- 1 aiieieiil eiiciiiipiiiiait we s.iw lie.s near a shallow lake In the prairie about a mile from the
(^ii'.\ppelle valli y. Il is Mirroiiiided by a lew low, siiidy. mid giavilly bills, and is ipiito screened
from observ.ilion. ll liny have been a lanipiiii; ground fir lelilurie-, as .sjiue liieKs of dIoiu'.s arc
partially eovi n d willi i^ra-s and inilieddid :ii the soil.

Al noon on tbe •Jliili we rested hu' a few hours o|vposlte lo a I'vjro eamp of Crees on the oilier tide
of llie lake; our sudden appuaranee al the eil^e of the prairie t'l .i dieiil into a stale of tin !;realest
exeileiiieni, as eviiieed by llieir baste In eolleetiii'4 llieir horses •. I ;,.iiberiiij; in };rmips in the vallev
below. A few of I hi 111 set out to ride round the head of tbe lake, but in the wroiii; direellon, so
lliiit the elianri' of their overt iking us w, IS hi ;lily ilonbifiil, as they would have lo make a round of
.'ID niilr. ill eiiii-eipieiiie of the intervening Like. 1 bis niagiiitieeiil slu.ii cif water, never less than
lull' a mile liiMad and lli iiiiles loiiif. shadowed t'orib wlia ilie l^ir.\p|ielle valley iiiigbl beeoine if u
river like the S.isk.ilehewan eoiild lie iii ide lo llow lliroi' ',ii it. .Vs we iie.ii'ed ihe lieigbl of land the
pliy-ieal slrneliire of ibis }. .cut valley lieealiie a de ply interesling and ainio-t lAeiliiig siibjert of
iiii|iilry. ."so far il bad pri served its breadth and deplli with aslonlsliing iinifoi iiiity all the wny from
the .Mission, and we were 'vitbiii .ll) miles of the sonlli braiieb of the S isk.ileliewan. i he hill banks
of llie river now lieiMinie «,iiidcd agale, asli-Uaved iii.iple and elm In the ravin, s, siisiaine I, no doubt
by the pri'-eiiie of so lari;(! a body of water as Hnll'.ilo I'ouiid Hill Lake.

Towards eieniiig we arrived al another Ci'ee eneaiiipnieiil, where we were again Iiospil.ibly 'reatod
lo bi'.ileii biill'al.i meat ami marrow fit. Itireli link dishes full of lliat iilltrillous Inn ',ot verv
templing lood was placed on the gioiind lieforc us and we were reipiesled to pailake nf il. The
Indians look a pici'e of the pounded meat in their lingers and dlp[ied il into tbo soft marrow ; they
W( re ilelighlid lo receive a small present of lea nnd tobacco, iind wliilo wc were engaged in tbe lent

* Iv\|i|ut:iiiuiis and Sui'vi'V.s f.M- .1 lailro.iii roiilc I'ruiu tlic Missis, iinti li, tliu I'av :fi.' Oci'atl. GiivcriK.f Suvius, yn.v ST.

II ;j

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

If!

with the nipn, tho jiirls, children, nnd old women came round our carts, nskiiisf if we ha<l any mm,
and snufl'cd the boxes and hajts containing provisions, in search ot" that odorilerons stimulant. We
left our hijspiliihlc friends in the eveniiii; and canijicd about three miles from the last Cree tent. The
chief of the band, an old man, expressed very kindly li'elini;s townnls us, and hinted that it would he
as well to kei'i> a watch over our horses durinj^ the night, for there were some yoimg scamps amonjt
his baiiil who would think it an honour to steal a white man's horse. Visitors came during the
evening, and from their actions we thnnght it advisable to keep watch and tether the horses; observing
these precautions they retired at an early hour after a friendly smoke.

At dawn on the following morning we were I'li roiitr again, and towards noon approached the .Sniuiy
Jlills, the valley coiiliMuiii': about 140 feet dee]) ami maintaining its width. I'wo days before our
arrival the Indian^ had been running bnllido, and many carcases of tlu.sc animals were scattered over
the arid, treile.-> prairie through wbich our route lay. Several herds of bnllido were visible, wending
tluir way in -in.;!!' (ile to the (iraud Coleaii de Missouri distinculy looming south of the (Ju'.Appclle
Valli'y. After tiavclling through a dry, barren region, strewed with erratics until two p.m., we
arrived at the Lake of tlu' .Sandy Hills, and nn the opposite side of the valley saw a number of tents
with m;i;iy horses feeding in tJie Hats. When within a mile of the lake a bnll'ilo hull snddinly
appeared upun the brow of a little hill on our right. A finer ^ight of its kind could hardly be
imagined. The animal was in his |)rime and a inagiiiliceut specimen of the bnlfaln. He gazed ,it us
through the long liair which hung over his eyes in thick |)rofnsion, pawed the gre.Mul, tossed his head,
niid snorted with proud disilain. lie was not more than lifly yards from us, and while we were ad-
niiriii'^ Ills spliielid proportions he set olf at a gallop towards some low hills we had just passed over.

Oin' aiipearaiuc on the brink of the valley oppo-ite the tents surprised the Indians; tlicv c|nieklv
caniilit tluir bor.'^es. and about twenty galloped across the valley, here (piite dry, and in a (piiirter of
an hour were seated in frii'niily chat with the lialf-brei'ds. \\r kindled a fire with /loi.iilf nicln; of which
there was a y,\-i ipiantity strewn over the jilain, but no wood "as lu'ar at baud. Win n the men
were going to the lake for water to make sonic tea the Indians told us it was salt, and that the (uilv
fioli water within a distance of >ome niikv was close to their camp on the o|)posile >ide of the valley.
We were tlienline cmisiraiiied to eru-is to the other sidi' and elect our tents near to the spiiiig.
Ailvantage was liken of our passage acres'; the valley to make an instrumental measurement ol its
leading dimensions. It was loiiiid tn he 1411 fei't deep, estimating fioiii the aliriipt edge of the bank,
and one iiiil<' livi' chains br.iad. The diptli below the trcneral level of tlii' prairie is coiisiileiablv
gre.iler, for there was a des.cnt of filiv or sixty feel by a gentle -lope not iiiihi led in the liinvoiiig
measni'ciiient. .\ v.ist iiiiniber of erratics strewed this slope; indeed it w.is with great dillicultv that
we sltered the carls throiiuh the h)riiildahlr acciimiilalioii of boulders which In -el oiir palli. Tlie
beil ol ihe (^o Apprlle i~ c|iiile visible in llie valley, bul on aeeoiinl of the jionuis iiatiiic of the soil
the overllow iVuin .""and Mill Lake peiietrales it in dry weather, and reappears about half a mile below
ill the form of a liitle stream ah iiit ten feel br()a<l, i-suim; from a inaisiiy trad occiipvini,' ilk' i-ntire
bnadtli of the valley. In crossiin; the carls and horses sank ileeply in the soil gra-sv boltoiu, already
nineli cut up by llie passing of a 1 niic nnmlar ot biilliilo duiini; the week preceding our arrival.

.Simd Hill Lake is four and a liiilf miles long, very shallow, and conlains water strongly impregnated
with l".psom sails and couuuon .sail. We made ourselves acceplahle lo tlu' Indians by in. iking iIh'iii a
present of powiler, shot, lea, and lobacco, and in return llii'y invited ns lo piirt.ike of pounded meat,
niarrowtat and berries. I'ln eliicf ol the band assured ns that his young men were honest and
trustworthy, and in eompliance Willi bis iiistrnctions properly would be piilectly sale. I>nringthe
niyht a heavy r.iin filled the hollows with w.iier .ind give ns promise of an abnnd.uil siipplv iiiiiil we
arrived ,il llie ."^iiidv Hills where ihe main body of I'lain t'reis wen' enc.imped. On the f'ilowiii',' day,
llie 'j^.sili. 1 rode lo the Lye-brow Hill raii^c, a prolongation of the (ii'Miid C'oleaii, and dis|;iiii from
the (jiiWpprllc \':illey about li)iir miles. It was there llial the Indians told us we should fuid eiie of
the sources of llii' (^n'.Xppelle river. After an hour's ride I reached the hills and ipiicklv cime upon a
dee) ravine at the bottom ol which biibbleil a little stream about three feet broad. I loiloucd its
course iiiul it entered the prairie leading to the Ureiit Valley, nnd triced it to its junction with the main
excavalioii. llu'oiigh a deep n.irrow gully.

Tliu Lye-lirow Hill raii^e is about 1 at) feet (ihovc the prairie, niul forms the flank of a table lanil
stretching lo the (iiaiid toleau, of which it is the wislcrn extension. The recent tracks of bnllido
were couniless on the lull sides, and in the dislaiiee several herds could be seen feeiling on the tre( less
plalean to the sonlh. In the aliernoon we bade fiucwill lo onr t'ree liiends .ind tiavelhd wi st on the
south side of S:\\\i\ Hill Lake iiiilil we arrived at the ljuIIv through which the stream Iroiii the five-brow
hill range eiilered the (^ii'.Xppelh' Valley. It w.is here nine feet bro.iil ami three deep, having received
accessions ill a short course ihroiiiih the prairie from the hills whi'ie I had observed it searcelv I luce
feel broad. We camped in the valley and employed the evening in taking levels.

.Mioul limr miles w<sl of ns we saw ihe .Sandy Hills and could discern the tjreiit Valley passing
through llieiu, and (iinlainiiM.r, ;is ihi' Indians had alleged, ponds which sent water lioth to the .Siiilli
liraneh and tlur Ass nnilii>iiie, an iiuporlaiil physical liict which we aliervvards veriliid nislriiiiieiilallv
and by optical oidol. We luiind llin sireaiiilei from the Lye-brow Hill range strike llie (^n'.\p|ielle
V'.'illey eight and a hall miles we<l of :3and Hill Lake, and lour miles Irnin the lie'ghl ol l;iiid where
the ponds he. •'!!" fidi between lln' ponds and (Uir camp \»as uhoul IIm' led, and the valley I jl> led
deep, and one mile seventy chains broad. Ihe Lye-brow Hill stream bad excavated a ihaliuel liiuu
fed deep in the boltoni ol' ihedreat Valley, and was i'liiied by ii sluggish brook coiiiini.' from the
ponds a few yarils from our camp. Water murks on the lull banks showed that the entire breadth of
the vallev is flooded during spring.

The .Siiid Hills coiiiiinore (111 the north •Jide about two miles wes| (it Sand I till Lake as it .appears
In sinmner. They nrc drilling dunes, itiid many of them present a clear ripple-marked surface without

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOftING fiXPEDITEON.

any vcfjctiition, not even n blade of prass. Tliey Imvc invndeil the Great Valley and materially
lessened it>i deptli. One lealin'e in ils banks is worthy of special notice. Many boidders or errntics
are distril)nliil over llic west extremity of siniill hills or ridges into s.liieh the sleep banks are broken,
seventy to one hniidred and twenty leet above the level of the Huts, 'i'liesc ridyes have tin; form of
loiii;. .larrow iskmds, their loiiffitudiiial axes beinj; parallel to the sides of the valiey, and the erratics
are i .posited and nrnniped on the top of each ridge and at their western extremities. The form of these
rid;;(s is also peculiar ; they are sharp at the west end where the erratics lie, and rounded at the east
end. Till' slope is j;entle at the west end, abrupt at the east and. This peculiarity is a constant feature
of all the ridfjes seen <>u the sides of the banks of the valley. They vary in heifjl.t from 10 to 30 feet,
and in N'Oi^di from 00 to 1 10 fett, and in breadth from 20 to 80 feet. 'J'hey have evidently some
n'lation to the excavating' force which has produced this i^reat valley, and caiuiot be attributed to the
lung eoininued action of asmall streaai : however competent runnin<j water may be to produce- deep and
loni; depressions in loose drift, or a soft friable rock. (See tcnudvut uii pnyc iia.)

A section of the b.nik of the Kyebiow Hill str^'am, on it* course throuj^h the flats, showed fine clay
bronght by recent rairis from the hill bjinks, sand blown fr^ni the dunes, aiul loam produced l)y the
blcndinj; of the two. Where it leaves the prairie the little river has exposed a section of a drift hill
ten feet above tlu' level of the flats, which reposes upon an ochreous stratified rock, seamed with veins of
selcnite. It exhibits yellow and rod ferruj;inous clay, about six feet thick, and below it is a hard,
greenish sandstone, in which gigantic concretionary masses are numerous. Veins of selcnite penetrate
the greenish coloiii^il rock, but are most abundant in the ferruginous clay. This is the first rock seen
in position above the Mission.

On the morning of 'I hursday, 29th, we prepared to visit the main body of the Crecs at the Sandy
Hills, and, with a view to secure a favoin'able reception, sent a inessei.ger to announce our arrival,
and to express a wish to see Shortstick, the chief of the Sandy Hills. Soon after breakfast we
crossed the valley and entered the Sand dunes; one which we measured was seventy feet high, quite
steep on one side, be nitii'ully ripple marked by the wind, anil cresceulshaped. Sand dunes are on
both sides of the v^illey. I'nim tiie sunnnit we saw the woods ami hills iK'yond the south branch of the
.Saskatchewan, anil, what was more delightful to us, liaceil with the eye the (iu'.Appelle valley with
undiminished depth and breadth through the .Sandy Hills, uinil it was lost as it di|)ped towards the
south branch.

.\t 8 o'eloek, am., we came in sight of the Cree camp, .and soon afterwards messengers arrived from
.Shortstick, in leply to the annomicement of our arrival, expressing a hope that we woidil delay our
approach until they had moved their camp half-a-inile further west, where the odour of the putrid
biiH'alo would be less aiuaiying. \Vc employed the lime in ascertaining the exact position of the licight
of laial, and soon liiuiul a pond from which we observed wiiiir flowing to the tsaskatehcwan and
.\ssiiniibiiini' The pond ^^a^ \\\.\ by a mnnlitr of springs and small streams a foot or two broad, issuing
from the Saialy llilU. on both sides, at right angles to the valley. We selected this spot to level across
the valley, nnil fonnd its ilepili to hi' 1 111 f el luliiw the first plateau ; its breadth, although partially
invaded bv sand dune-, scveinv-three chains, or nearly one mile. Here v.e commenced taking the levels

M»«

' "■■■" """^■,. ' IUJ. "^*-' "■ ■' " '

IKAN.sVKItSK f.K( IION 1)1- XWV. VAI.I.KY OK TH K IO'a ri'Rt.l.K A"r TIIK. UKIliUT OK I.AM).

(ll"ri:oiil,ll .SV.i/i'. Hi i/.illilv /.. ,m iiiili; Wrtirill Sell,; JHO./rrf In nil imii.)

to the South Hiauch, twelve miles distant from ns, an opeiation which we soon found necessary to close
liir the pre>eiil, in eonseipieiice of the arrival of about sixty Cree horsemen, many of tlieni naked,
with exeiplion of the breeeli-clolh anil belt. Tiny were aeeomp.inied by the chief's son, who infiirmed
us that in an hour's lime they would escort us to the camp. I'liey were about constructing a new
pound, having literally (ilKil an old one with bull'alo, aid being compelled to abandon it on account of
the steneh which arose from the putrifying bodies. We sat on the ground and smoked until they
lliouglu It lime t'or lis to accompany them to their encaiupineiit. Shortstick had hurried away to make
preparations for bringing in ihe bulliilo, the new pound being nearly ready. He expressed through his
son a wish ili.it we should see them entrap the buflalo in this pound, a rare opportunity lew would be
willing to lose.

We passed ihri'Uiih the camp to a place which the ehiel's son pointed out, and there erected our
tents. 'I'lie women Were still employed in moving the camp, being assisted in the operation by large
numbers of dogs, each deg liaving two poles h,irius-ed to him, on which his lilile load of meat, in-
pemiean, or camp rmniture was laid. .Vfler another smoke, the chief's .sou asked me, through the
interpreter, if I would like to see the old bullalo pound, in which they had been entrapping liullido
during the past week. Wiih u ready ci '.i)|)lialiie 1 accompanied the guide to a little valley between
sniul-liills, lluough .1 lane nl In .inches of trees, which are called "lUad men," to the gate or trap of the
])oiind. A sight most horrible and di.sgusling b;oke upon us as we ascendiil a s.iiii! ili.iie overhanging
the little dell in which tlie pound was built. Within a circular leiue. 120 feet broad, constriieted of
the trunks of trees, laeul v, ilh withes together, and braced by outside supports, lay tossed in every con-
ceivable posilion over 200 (lead bud'alo. From old bulls to calves of three months old, animals of every
age were Iniililled togetlur in all the forced altiludiM of violent ilealh. Some lay on their lacks, with
eyes starting from their heads, and tongues thrust out through clotted gniv. Others were inipaletl un

11 4

i !

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

the horns of llic olil niul stroiif; bulls. Olliers ngnin which liail hecii tossetl were lying with broken
bucks two luul liirec licep. Due iiltlo calf iinng suspended on liic liorns of ii bull which hud iinpnled it
in the wild riico rinnui and round the pound.

The Indians looked uitun (he <h'oadful and .sickouini; scene with evidi nt delij;ht, and (old how sucli nnd
such a bull or cow had ixliihited feats ofwonderfid sticnjjth in the death stnijiijle. 'I'iie Ik'sh of many of
the cows had been taken from them, and was drying in the sun on slagrs jicar the tenis. It is needless to
sav that the stench wa-; over|i<iwering, and millions of large blue (lesh-lliLS humminu; and bn/.zinj; over
the putrilying bodies was nut the least disgusting part of the spectacle. At n)y reipiest the cliiil's son
jumped into the pounil, and with a small axe knocked oil' half a dozen pair of horns, v\hich I wished to
preserve in memory of this terrible slaughter. "To-morrow," said my companion, "you shall sec us
" bring in the bull'alo to the new pound."

After the first run, ten days helorc our arrival, the Indians hnd driven about SOO huflalo into the
enclosure, and were still urging on the remainder of the herd, when one wary old bull, espying a narrow
crevice which bad not been closed by the robes of those on the outside, whose duly it was to conceal
cverv orifice, made u dash and broke the fence ; the whole body then ran helti r-skeller through li.e
gap, ami, dispersing among the sand iliiius, escaped, with the exception of eight, «lio were spianil or
shot with arrows, as iliey parsed in llieir mad career, lit iill, a 10 animals had been killed in liie pound,
and it was its olVensive condilion «hieh led the reekles.i and wasteful savages to eonstruct a new one.
Tins was formed in a pretty dill helweeii s.ind hills about half a mile fnin the first, and leading from
it in two diverging rows, the bushes they designate dead men, and which serve to guide ihe liiillhlo
when at full speed, were arrangiil, The dead men extended a ilislanee ol four miles into llie (UMii ie,
west of ami beyond the Sand Hill-. They were placed about lifiy feet apart, uiid bel«eeii the
extreniitv of the rows might be a distance of from one and a half to two miles.

When the skilled luinteii are about to bring in a herd of biill'alo from the prairie, tliey diiett the
C(un>e of ibe gallop of ihi' alarmed animals by confederates siatii'iied in hollows or small <lepies-.ions. who
when the buffalo appear inelined to takea dneelion leailing from the space maiki'd out bv thi' dead men.
show themselves for a moment and wave lln ir robes, iiuineiliately however hiding again. This si ivi s to turn
the InilValo slightly in another diieclion ; and when the animals having ariived between the rows of ili-.id
men, endeavour to pass through them, Indians here and there stationed bebiiul a dead man, go lluoiigli
the s:nne operation, and thus keep the animals within the narrowing limits uf tin- converging liiu'.-.
At ilie entrance to the pound then' is a strong trunk of n tree placed about one fool from the gioiuul,
nnd on the inner s'de a shallow excavation is made, siifliciently ileep, however, to prevent the bnlKilo
from leaping back when once in the pound. As soon as the animals li.ive taken the f.ilal spring they
begin to gallop round and round the ring f^nce looking fiir a cli.iiiee of escape, but wilh the ulmost
silelici; the women and ehildreil on the outside hold their robes before cveiy (uillee until llie whole hi rd
is brought in. They then climb to the top of the fence, an I with the hunkis who have foilowed cloMly
in the rear of the bulfalo, spear or shoot with bows and anows or firearms at the bewildered animals,
rajiiiUy becoming mad wilh rage and teiror, wilhin the narrow limits vi' the pound, ll is then 'liat a
dreadlul scene of coliliision and slaughter begins, the dldcsl and strongest animals eiush and liss the
weaker; the shouts and screams of ihe i xeited Indians ris.- above tin.' ro iriii;; uf ihe hails, ihi' belluaing
of ihc cows anil the pilions moaning ol' the calves. 'I'iiu dying sling^lis uf .so luaiiy siron:;, fell grown
Hnhnal.s crowded to^e Inr, fnrni-h a revolting and terril)le pietme, hut with occasional disphivs of
wonderl'nl brute strength and ra;ie ; while man in his savage, mitulured and healliin slate shows liolh
ill t]rit\ and expression how liille he is superior to the noble beasts he su wantonly and cruillv ilesirovs.

.■sbortstiek is about M years old, of low stature, but veiy powerfully built. His amis and breast
Were deeply iiiarked wilh seals and gashes, records of grief and mouriung ti)r (h parted I'm nib. His
son's lioilv was p.iinti d wilh blue b.iis across his chest ami arms. 'I'he only cluiliing lliev wme con-
sisted of drissed elk or bulliiK) bide, and the bieech elolli ; this robe was ofiin east oil' the shoulders
and drawn ovi r the knees) when in a silling poslure ; ihey wore no covering o.i the he;iil, ilieir long
hair was plaited or lii d in knots, i.r hung loose over their shonlili rs and back. '1 he forms of .suiui^ of
the youiiL; men were faullless, of the older lueii bony and wiry, and of the aged men, in lUic instance
nl least, a living skelelon. 1 eni|nirid the age of all extremely old fellow « ho askeil me f.,r medicine
to cure a li.iin in his ehis| ; l,e replied he was a sirong man when ihe two Companies (the Hudson's
IhiV and the Nvu ih-W'est ) were trading wilh his tiibo very many summers ago. He rememhers the
time when his jnople were as mmiurous as the biilfalo are now, and the hufllilo thick as trees in the
forest. The hair-lileeds thought he »as nnre than 100 years old. .*shoilsliek acceplnl the presents of
tea, tobacco, bullet>, powi'

liT and bl.inkets I made him with marked satisfaeioii,

aiul exinesseil a wish

to learn the object of our visit. We held a "talk" in my lent, during uhich ihe chief expiessid
himself freely on various snbjiels, and listened with the ntmosl allention to ihe speechis of ihe Indians
he had snimnoiied to at lend ihe ('ouiu

All speakers objected strongly to the half-breeds' Ininling biilliilo during the wiiilnin liie I'lain Crce
coiinliy. They bad no objection to trade wiili them vv with whil.' people, but ihey insisted that all
strangers should purchase diied meat or peiiiican and not hunt (or themselves,

'J'hiy urged stiong objeclioiis against the Hudson's I'ay Company encroaching upon the praiiies and
driving away the bldraio. They would be glad to see lliein establish as many posis as thev cho.se on
the edge ol the prairie eoiinlry, bnl they did iml like to see the plains invaded. During the existence
of the two •ounianies, all went well with the Indi.nis ; ihey ohlained ixcellinl pay and eoiild sell all
their meat a id pi inieaii. .Since the union of the coin|)aniis they had not lined half so wi II, hail re-
ceived bad pay lor their provisions, and were growing poorer, and weaker, and more misnable vear by
year. The bunido were tiist disap|iearing before the eneio.ichiuents of the white men, and although

thev acknowledge the value of firearms liny thought lliev were fellir oil

111 old times, when llie<

had

only bows and speurs, aiul wild aiiiniald weru laiiiicrous, 1 utjkcd ShorUtick to iiaiuu llie articles he

SASKATCHEWAN EXI'LOIIING EXPEDITION.

would like to liiive if I came inlo his country nj^iiiii. Ho iisl<«l for ten, a liorsc of Englisli breed, n
cnrt, II f;un, a supply of powder and hall, knives, tobacco, a medal with a chain, a flai;, a suit of fuic
clothe!', and nun. 'liie talk lusted between six and seven hours, the fjreater portion of the time beinij
taken up in interpreting, sentence by sentence, the j-peeches of e:ieh man in tmii. They {jenerally
connnenced with the creation, givin'j; a short history of that event in most f^eiieral terms, and after a
few flourishes about c(piality of origin, descended suddeidy to biill'alo, half-breeds, the H. U, Company,
tobacco, and rum.

Marly on the morninu of the .''0th I retraced my steps lo examine an exposure of cretaceous rock,
(iirniiufj part of the bank at ihi! sunnnil level of the Qu'Appelle valhy, while Mr. Flemini; continued
takinij the levels to the .South Ihanch. (.SVc Ncrtioiu p. (iU.) The rock is a sandstone, dippiiij; very
slif:htly to the south-west. The len;:lh of the exposure is about .50 yards, east and west ; it is covered
with driftinj; saml. Near the sui.Miiit the layers are liyhly fossiliferons, and almost whully composed of
Aviriilii LiiKjiui'jiirmis (Evans tniil S/iii iird): above ind tielow tiie li»siliferous portion there is a coarse
greenish coii'ured sand, inlerstralidfd with brown ferruginous layers. Tlie thickness visilde is about 12
feet. TliC rock occurs at the bend of the valley at iis sinniiiit level; the exposure is perpcnilicuiar,
and about <iO feet above the bott(nn of the valley. .Some of the beds, those v hich are unlbssiliferoiis,
are very soft and friable, easily disinleij;ralini;, and may, I'artlur west, be the orii^in of the sand dunes
distributed over so wide an area in this |)art of the country. In deseeiulin}; the sUipe from the sinnmit
level to the Saxkatohewan, the Ixiulders on the ridges in the valley were fomid to be generally deposited
upon the west side. 'I'lie iiielination of the boulders wa towards the east, those forminu; the upper
stratum were inclined aiiaiiist or superimposeil upon ti.' v, 'st side of those beneatli, leadin;; to the
iid'eienci' that the current which directed the course of ice wiiwii bore liiem, came heie, as on the other
side of the i-ninmit level in the vallev, fioin tlic ices/.

-4:i: ■■-r-.T

.■ iV , - i-p^ ^^^a>o-.

El.i. .■AI.i-,.'l

liinoKs, Willi Mi)ii,iii:ii'*. UN iiiK KAsr .\.Mi \\i:s'r hidb oi-' iiii; Hunair m' i..\m> i\ rm-. m 'am'Ici.i.k vai.i.fv.

About louiteen miles I'roin the S.1sl^iltellewall tlieie is a j;i,i;aiitic erratic of uiill)s>iliferous rock on tin;
south side of the valley. It is seventy-nine feel in liuri/.oiUal circinnlerence, three feet from the
j^rouiul, and a tape stretched across the ixposed |;ortion lioin side to side over the hifjliest poiiit
ineasnreil !t> feet. The Indians place on it olferinus to Maiiitou, and at the time of tiur visit it
contained beacU, bits of tobacco, fr,i:;ments of cloth and othel' ir.lLs.

At noon 1 liaile far. wtll to .'^liortsliek, aiul joinin;.! the carls we wended our way by the side of •'the
Itiver that Turn-.," oici.pyin;„' tin' continual mi ol the (,)u'.\ppelle \ alley, to the .'^oiilh Hianeli of the
.Saskatchewan. The carls were ace<inipaiiieil by sever.il liuliau> who watched wiih much curiosity the
pro/^res-, ol laklnj; the levcN, and weio very anxiiais to know wliat " medicine" I Has .searchiiii; for
wlien sketehinj; tin' position of the ii ratios in the valhy.

Now and then a t'lu- bnllido bull would a|)pear at the brow of the hill ffirmiiiir t,„. b,iiinil.n-y of the
]irairie, <in/.v at u-> for a lew niiniile-. and u.illop oil'. The bulhilo were c.o-siii:.r the .South IhMiieh a
lew milei, below us in j;reat iiumbei-, and at ni;iht, by putting the ear to the ground, we could hi'ar

lielle

ow.nils eu'iiinu

we ail arri\ed at ihe Siailli Ihaiieh, built a lir

e, •(liii.ine

d til

caiiot , Hhieh had been sully daina^^ed by a journey of illO milis across the prairies, and lai-.lened to
make a distribution of the supplies lor a canoe voyajje down that spleiulid river. We vmic not
anxious to tamp at the inuuth of " the Itiver that Tunis," in ciaisC(|Ueuce of a war parte ol' lilackfeel

I of the Cree Camp, watchinir for an ojiportuiiily to steal

who were saiil

liorses, and

to I

ic in the iiei"

li.ournocH

1 if possible to " lilt

The 1 1

uliaiis wh

o had lucompaniid us hastened to join their blends as soon as ihpy saw the canoe in
le water ; anil just as the sun set, the canoe containing Mr. I'leinin;^ and myself, widi two half breeds.

tiM

pushed olf Irian the sluae. The rest
retired from the river to camp in the

if the party, with the carts and liorsis in chari^e of tin

i.ld

luiiter,

oiieli prairie.

where they would lie alije lo gyard auanist a surprise

by Jie lilackfeet, en' the thieviiif; propensilii s of treacherous Cites. (ileal |

i\caiilions «e'

doiibledlv incissiir\

as sure si^ins had heeu ohserveil wiihin three miles o

.)! ti

that

a War pal

tv of Ill.ickfeel wen' sk

iibiiut. The Crees, always aceuste

le S.iiilv
.1

Hills.

oiiied wlien on t'.

Urai'ch to their attacks, merely adopted the precaution of posting watches on the liighoi diir ■ ., about
a mile from the camp, and it was owing to the ailvice of Shortsiick that weeinhaiked s>> la'.e in the
evening in our canoe. We drifted a mile or two do .n the river until we came to a precipilous dill'
showing a (ine exposure of rock, which proved a temptation too great to be resisted, s > we drew the
canoe on the laiiik and
wutcli ill lui'ii'v.

cam]

led for the night on the cast side of the river tnak

ing airangcments to

66 . REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

The first view of the South Uniiith of tl>t' Siiskalchownii, fully six himilrcil miles from the point
where the miiin river ilisembopius into Lake Wimiipi.'jt, lilied nie with nstonisliment and adniiratidM.
^Vt■ .stood on the iiaiik^ of a river of llie (irst elass, nearly half a mile broad, and flowinj; with u swift
current, not more than lliree hunilreil and fifty miles liom the Itucky Mountains, where it takes its
rise. W'c had reached tiiis river l)y Iraversiiij; either witliin it or on its hanks, for a distance ot two
liundred and seventy miles, a narrow deep exc.ivation continuous iVoai the valley ot one j^reat river to
that of another, anil exhiliitini; in many I'eatuies evidences of nn <:xiavarni;r force far greater than tlie
little Qu'Appello which mc.indered through it, was at the fnst l)lii,li, tlioiiglit capable of creatinji;.
How wi're the deep lakes hollowed out ? lakes fillinj; the hreadih of the valley, but dm'ing the lapse of
nijes not havinj; incieased in breadlli, |)reservinj5 too, for many miles, such remarkable depths, and
allhoiifih in some intanees far removed from one uiiolher, ytt maintainiiii; those deptlis with striking
nniformity. 'v\ hat could be the nature of the eroilinij li>rce which duj; out narrow basins (ifly-four to
sixty-six feet deep al the bottom of a valley already 300 feet below the sliijhlly undulating prairies,
iinil rarely excelling one mile in breadtii ? It was easy to understand how a small river like the
(iu'Appelle conlil gradually excavate a valley a nnle l)road and three lnnuhe<l l»et deep, 'i'lie vast
prairies of the North-West od'er many such insta- s: the little Soinis Uivei', for example, in passing
through the nine Hills: (he Assinnil)oine, for a lunidred and fifty miles, flows through a l)road deep
valley, evidently exeavate<l by it;i waters; the ' vc in weslern Canada oflen (low in deep eroded
valleys; l)ut in no instance to my knowledge are dc! ^ ,ind long lakes known to occu|)y a liver valley
where the attiinile and cliaracler of the ro ■ pi bale die assum|)tion that they may have licen
occasioned by lalls. without having inerenseil its vvidlh by the action of their waves on tin: banks or
witluinl leading .some Iraees of the force whicn had excavated lliem. Ic was certainly «ith niingled
feelings of mixielv .njd pleasuiable anticipation thai we embarked on the broad .'s.iskalchcwan, hoping
during our long journey down its swift slieani io lind some clue to the origin of the curious inosculating
valley ol the Qn'Appelle we had traced fmin one watershed to another.

Iii:.M)iNc. l)i.Mt:Nsiu.ss OF THK Qu' A I'l'i i.i.K 1)11 Cai.i,in(. UivKit \'ai.i,kv, .vni) of THi. L.akf.s

wMicii o<i ri-v II.

Tiihlt sttKii :tiii ilii full/fit, iritfi thr hirinlfh oinI ffrjitfi, of' /hi' Qu\'\pjH'Vf J'li/fti/ tii i/iflnrnf p>*hitx.

.Mill-, llialin

l.engdi of \'aile\ IVom the .South Hraiich of the .Saskatchewan to the .\silnniboiin - aii!) o

llri;idlli of \"ailey TO miles from the .\ssiniiiboine -----

Di). do. 177 do. do. - - . - -

Do. ilo. •_';!)» do do. .... -

lio. ilo. 'J.'):) ill do, - . . _

Do. do. ^-jts Ol). do.

.\t its jnmtion with the .Vs.sinniooiiie its breadth excicds one mile.

Al its junction with the Saskatchewan its breadth exceds one niili- and a (|ii:)rler.

Depth of the Valley 70 miles from tin; .\s-iiinil)oine ....

Do. do. ITT do. do. - - - -

Do. do. 2.S0 do. do. - . . - .

Do. do. '-ih'S do. do. - , . -

Do. do y.'iS do do. _ . - . .

.\t llie junrtioii will) the .Asslnniboiiie the prairie sh.pe^ to iKc Valley of that river, .oid its
ill pill here is -

\l ils jiiiiclioii With the .Sii-skatchewan llie prairie also slopes to tin- Valley of llie .Saskatehi
and ils depth «.is I'stininted to be .-.--..

I'lil.l, .,/ininiiii //it' limilh. hraiihli. uk ini ilijilh, (irinhsl itifilli, niiil t/ntiiiin /idiii tin .l.^siiitii/idiiK n) //it

l.t'Ls in //,! (i,i.l/,/„ll, l,:/lr,/.

7S«

•'n

1. 1.

a.'iO

220

140

d ils

.'^40

\ an,

110

.V.im. <.f l..il>.-.

I,,i,Kili.

liMUiiil Lake. Ol Kii-w ill- wi-ia-ka-inac -
I III. .kill I akc. lu !\a-ua-\ia-ki-ka-i; ae -
I'Vhin^ Lake. Ni). I. nr Ca-ki tn-»i-wiii

,. No.'.'. -

,. No. .'t.

.. No +, , -
l,i)iig Lake ....

HiilValo I'oai.cl-liill Lake -

Stii.dliill Luke . . - -

Ilr.Miltli.

D.plli.
.MiMii. Ur.

iiiii-i-

III.

ill.

tli..ii.i,.

.'*i

(iO

f;o

'*.'<

(iO

.',0

(io

(io as fur i
as seen. |

II,

5>l

\r>

(il

'JS

:(!
r,'>

Kill.

.so

(i()
4S

.) t

DiMi
I'r.ihi
Al.,iilli

111. ill.

1 I L'O

.V)

lOS

114 '_'0

no '20

124 12

l()S

IIM L'O

L';l:) .'A)

'i'olal leiiglli ill' the Lakes

Kiirr. — 'l"lic li.r:iilll.s unit (d'litlts iire III,' mrntii iif si'\i'rnl iiir«<iiirriiU'iil'.. Thi itiNUm-es nre LikiM nltiiii; tlip ci-iitru iif itii* \'ulli'y,
* UitL- iiiilu lew 'H yardk. t Onu mile less 1 J4 jrardi.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

CHAl'TER IV.

t'llOM THK QU APPELLB MISSION TO FOII f Kr.MCK, UOWN THE <^U Al'FEU.F. IllVF.ll.

I> I.

•25t)
220
IK)
110

240

20
.',0

The Sccnnd Fisliiiip Lake — Doptli of— Indian Map— Origin ofnaiuo Qu'Appc^lle, or "Who calls Rivtr" — 'I'iie
I'irsi I.akf. orl'iiliitawiwiii — (in at (Icptliof Fii'st l.iikc — I'isli— Confiiva' — Hcptli of Valley^ Widtli oriiivfr

lljc.'h Watrr iiiaik — Valley HoihIciI — A(Hiiuiils--l)ipth ol' Valley — (rooked Lake, or Ka-wa-wa-ti-ka-niac

. — l)liiun»lon» of- l-.tfecis of I'ires — Trees in Valley — lioidder.s — (jliuiacter of the Couiilr\ — Indian Sni prise
— Indiuns— Snnniicr lieny CJeek — Diniensloiis of Valley — \ alley and I'laiiie Sci'iie — Canip iSeeiie —
Character ol Valliy — Ka-rtali-wi-ya-ka-niae, or Uound Lake — Dimensions of — .Stoiy liarrier — (ir.iiiite
lloulders — Little Ciit-anii Creek — The Scissors Creek — Hoek cxjiosure — Grasshoppers — l!i;; Cul-arm
Creek — Dimensions of (^uAppelle— Flooding of Valley — Tiu)l)er — Undergrowth — Birds — Minks — Deer
— Uniformity of Qu'Appelle Valley.

Mil. IJukinsonV: N,\uu.\T!vk.
Dear Sin,

Soon aftrr paitiiig f'roni you on tlio ini)iiiiii<; of July 20tli, at thu Cliiircli of Kiiglaini Mission
in the Qu'.\|H)clle Valley, my instnniients for siirvc'viiitr, wiili watcli, a niafjnetic compass, a lo;; line
and sounding liiu;, all arranged tiir ready use, and ii cargo of kellles, pans:, ] eniican, and blankets stowed
awiiv, our little catiue eomineiued its voyage down the river. In half an honr we rend'ed the liike,
which is generally <all<'il the second of tin; Tishing Lakes. Ikfiirc vcnturin:! to go down it we were
ohiiged to sto|) foi tl\e purpose of gnnnning the canoe, as it was leaking more Uian was desiralile. I'o
save lime we took breakfast !iero. I'he distance beiweeii tins lake and ihi dim at liie Mission is II
iniKs, while the aitual length ot ih" river is upwari's o!' two miles. Its widih aviiagcs 80 ilci, and its
tlrptli three li'et ; the rate of current, which is ne.crly nnil'mn tinoughinil its length, is one iinic per
hour. riic dillerence of li vel betwien these two lakes, oblaiiieil iiiilrument.illy on a previous day. is
i-.)Ofeet. TlieM' measurements, not valuible ni themselves, are taken tor the pin-poscs explained in
the '• Unles for Cdiidoetiiig the lAploring JSnrviy," namely, as the means for calculating ajijiroximalcly
the t<itai fall in the river. I may mention that at cvvry o|)|:ortuiiity similar measuremenls and observ.:-
lions were made, with the assislaiice of Mr. .lolin I'lemin'j. Irom which we were able to dednce ^oine
gciier.d laws for guiding us in e-timating the fdl in rivers. I may mention also, as it h is not oIh'O
iHt-n iisetl before. I think, on similar surveys, that ti.e log hue w.is found to be most invaliiabh' in
asceitaining the rate oi the camiL on the rivi'rs as ucll as on tli" hikes, being .; iiiueh more acdir.ite wav
than lliat ol esliin.itjng it by the eye.

The eaiiiH' Iiiiiig now declared to be sea worthy, He started on i nr way again. The lake is ;.| mile^
long and thiee-ipiarlers ol' ,i nille in breadth, extending belweeii the slopes of the valley, inn' ip| earing
to be mefily an expansion i/f the river, but on trial lound to be soiiiLthing more tnan that. For soiue
ilistance out irom the mouth of the river it is oiiiy Irom three to limr feet iU<'p, but on trying it when
Me were about li.ill a imie disiant with a soundii.g line M) feet long, to my great surprise 1 cmiid lind
no Imtlom ; having added more line, the deptii proved to be \'i feet. About the middle of the lake
the deptli is IH feet.

A Mtream it ijnai ler ol ;i mile in length. Ilowing -liigii'shly thrnngh a inarah, coniierts this lake
with the next, the (iist cf the lisliing ',,akes, or as it is in C'ree. J'd/iilinriiiiii. -Vll the Indi.iii naiiie^
of the hikes and tnbnl.iriis of the tJiiAppeile I got .ifterward« on my arrival at l''uit Kllieo, from an
old Indian 70 yiiiis ol age, who h,id been onee upon a lime a great Iniater anil warrior, now in peace
iiiiJ coinl'o'.i .tpem'.iiig his remaining dav.s at the hospitable I'oit. With a piece of charred wood he
drew ..1 the lie ir a map ol' t'.;e (Ju'Appelh' Valley I'roi.i l\h- Fishing l.ake^ tip the .\-.siunil)oiKi,
showing Lverv l.tlle creek so licciirately that 1 easily recognised them .Mr. McKay, who was tlcii in
clmrgo of the Fori, kindly acid as inteipreler on the occasion. 'I'he Crci name of the (Jif.VppeM
river is Kdld/ii.iiine iif/ii, and this is the origin of ihe nanit as told me by the Indian : — .\ soliiarv
Indian was coming ilovvn the river in his canoe niaiiy summers ago, wlien one day he heard a loud
voice calling to lini; I «; iv..|H)eil and listor d and ,ig,iiii heard the same void' as before. lie shouted
in reply, but there was no answer, lie searched evervwhere a omid, but could not lind the Irack.s of
any one. So I't-om tint time I'orlli it w.is .i.iiiuil the '-Who Call- Kiver.

/'c;Al^lM•('l(m IS «i.< I lilt s long and half a mile ide, and is most wonderfully deep. In one place,
by means of pnl'iig together varieii'. piece-, ol i id. sashe-, &c.. the sounding line being too short,
thediptli was loiiiid to bealiout (!(> 'cet. 'The n'.eau of seveial depth- is .VJ feet. It is famous f,,,- t!ie
qimntiiy and qi: dity of lis lisli. I'm- three mile- we pa-sed through a dcii e decaying mass of i-niifirnc.
which i'.n east wird !iai'. diiviMi to the iip|ai pus <d' the lake. The .smell of it was most unpleasant :
the men pu ';:"l thnnMrf |t „s li;ii-d ,is they could, no ea-v matter, as it impelled the progress of the
canoe conniderabiy. The valley here is about the same depth as it is at the Mission, lint the slopes
are not no lueciiiilons : one of lb', m, that in the south side, ha- been the whole way covered witli a
(h-nse growth of young aspens, and the ollnr has been bare of trees except in some of iis mam
hollows and ravines.

Leaving the lake m- new ilegcend the river at an average siiei'd of four mile., an hour, the rail, of
current beinj; generally about one mile luul ii quarter per hour, i'.iddling was ea>v work, but the

1 2

i f
! i

I I

REPORTS OF THK ASSINNIBOINE AND

stocrii'jj by uo luciins so, lor tin hmkIs iil' tlie I'lvpv nro iiuiiiinrriililo and very slmi'p, and llio wnlcrs
aWL'ii^ coinid llicni witli <;icit volucity ; ot'lcntinu'?, hut tor llio stroiiLj and drxlcrnus iirni of llic
stt'criLuan, llic cnuMo would l^ iif Ix'cn dnslicd a.'; Iivst llio liiidi, as it was lie ronld not avoi<l sonic-
times jji'ltins onMni^lcd anion:; tlu' m ci liiiri'^ii: ; hvv.-.n lies of tlic willows. TIm' width vatics from oiii'
cliaiii to oiii' and a liall", and iIk' di|illi IV.iiii liiiir :v.)i\ a linll'lo two I'l't-t. Tlit' lied I'or tlio most part
consists of soft mud and is <niili' live fioni lioiild 'rs, as is llic (■■•.,.o llio wliok- way to the luoulli,
(•xc('iitiiijr ill ono place to lie liU'litioiU'il j'.ereafti i'. 'I'lie liijjh.-waler luaik, very apparent on tlie
willows yrowinj;' alonij the lianks, w.is einlil feet over tlie present level of tlie water; tlie wliolo
'lotloin of the valley, I was loM. is often (ioovled to a deplli of lln\'e feel.

Nineteen small rrei'lis flow into lliin porliou of llu! river, two only of tlu'iii liavliiiT names, the tir.st
and second l'li<Ms,uit Creeks, called in ('re(> .ll.isl.ii:iwi sr/ilsii.. iinnied after a liill wliicli liis to tlie imrtli
some miles away, from iie.ir wliicli I'.ev liolli t ike tlieir rise. I took a cross section of tlic valiev here,
and fomul il to lie ."VJn fe .t deep and J.-- ciniiis wid : it is, I t'ink, tlie deepe.-i part of it. ,\t no iii,
11:1 duly "J-'lrd, wi! readied Croiked Lake, called in I ii>o K'lW iwiil.-h tm i'\ tllL- ino-t pi.'tlirc- p e ol' .w-
(iu'.Vppelle Lakes, Several streams draioiim tlie piairici on liolli sides have excavated do "p a 11
wide jioi'ijes opi'iiiiiij inlo the main valiev which li ro sweeps in graceliil curves, so that Ciookeil
Lake seems to lie emli isonied amon^-l hill-, and thus dilVers liMin the (ilher.s w'ii"!i h ive v<'iy n;iicli
the appearance of a Ltij^antie canal. Il is a lillle inure !li;iii sl\ miles in leii'.;lh, a lu its inea;: iiidtii ii
lline (iiiarlers ol' a mile. The <;reatesi depth I found was OO feet, and ihe mean 1 1 'V i.il souridiiifja
was .'U led. 'I'he siiiilli slope, as liefore. is clothed wiih a dense liiliai;r of youn}{ asp ns, willov - , and
cloi,'vvood : a ftreat contrast to the opposile side, on which •inly fjrows short and scanty ':ra>s, le.ivlng
the irrainfe lioiilders which lie seal! Med over it, cxpo-ed to ^iew; on'v i 1 the raviiie.s and llie deep
hollows are SO!,! pilches of younj? aspens and strapgliii,i.r oik.s which h.ic escaped the dcvaslat'n;.;
iires.

For soiSf linii- 1 lonid not nndii'slaiid why one side -hoiiM lie covere' ". iih uee.'i and the oilier
(piite hare, tin- .'oil on both heiii;.; exa'lly similar. iiiMil I cliscrr, .red niiiiii-', 1 lalile cv'deiices of lire,
which iiia\ ho the cause of il. On eiKiniiy a.l'lerwarils I Ibnnd thtit Indi ins (i!ii 1 liivel .'lonj^ thf
valley ovi ih; iinrtli nftlie river, iviiieh acconnl- for the Iires heiii;,' on tli.it side.

IJetwei'ii thi ;;ravvlK iuacii "id the first ol the -.lopes a lViii;;eof will(l^,■^ rans .■■!1 rinind the la'.r-
and several points of iow kind )'i\ unl im Uolh sides, on »liieh ';nnv oak. elin. and asli ; nut very larj;i!
trees certainly, liiti hi.illliy ami Jirniii;; 1 inkioj;, niid ^iviiiii addition il liiauiy to the laiMiscape.

1 asci'nded a lilnlf mi th • iiorlli side hy a wi!i-woj n di er palli, on which llieiv «ere many liiol-
niarks <piite fresh, lor the purpose of (al-i'if^ some ebservulions coniucud with the siine\, and seeing
the nature of the sin ronndiiitr <'<)n.)ln. .'» trentfs iiildnlalili;,' pr.iirie, dotted "lib ( iiunps of .small
poplars and willows, >ire|ched away • i i •.■■ (\ s;dc. .:iid as liir as 1 eonid see. llic soil was ,1 l.glit .sandy
and i;ravel!\ loam, and in uwv.y pa:'l.> ^ll■ewed will boulders, 1 rallier think llial ■-iKlii- ihe cliaracler
of a consiileriMe extent of this section o.f the conniry.

As I stood upon the sni'iiiiit of the lilnlf, lookini; down np'vn 'he glilleriiig lake iini' feet below,
and across tlin lionnilless jilains, 110 lii nig thin;,' in view, no sound of lili' an\ where, I ll:oi:.;hl of the
time to come when will be seen p.i -iiisr -» il'lly aldiui ihe distant hoii/.oii the »hile clii.id of llie
liieonuilive on its way Irnn ll .\llaiilie lo the I'acilie, aiidivlien the vadey will re-iani'i «iih llie
li.irry voices of those uho have come Iron lie busy cUy on the banks of Ited Uiver lo see the
l;e.,!i!il'(il laki'S of the (^n'.\ j'peMe. 'Ihe xieu- doun the valley, while thi' river after is-ning lioiii the
lake eommcnces again its slraiige eonlorlion-, w.is doiiblless very prelly, but it .-.heweil ino the trouble
that ■.'..IS brfoi'i' iiie, that there would he 1:0 re.-t for eye or r'ligir, siii'h as 1 had when taking long
straight courses on the lak( .

.Again le •■rated in the canoe, we somi passed out of the lake into the river, the current of whiili
for .some <li-t,ineo is very strong and rapid, about '1\ mile- per hour, according to the log line, and the
widlli avirage. 70 feel, and the depth :! II. (> in. .\ little wa>' down it, as we swiftly and noiselessly
gli.kd round a sodden bend, we were bmne by the current very (duse inileed lo a group of Indian
women who were (.•njoying the ple.i.-nres of a lialh, ipiilc as nini'li to our asloni-lnncnt as to theirs,
I'ir-t a loud chorus of screams aro-e, and I'len there was a riisliiiig ■ilioiit for blankets and other
appa. !, M hieli lliey adju-l-.d with most wondeilnl rapidity, and then aw.iy they scampered lo iheir
vigwami laiighiiiii heaitily as they Went, I'leseiitly iikii and boys came trooping down lo 11s simply
,.ri,i\ecl in bl.inkels, some worn in rallnr a /.'v^/'V/f fa-hion, .r the d.iy was very hot. The chief man
of the partv, which consisled ol six familie-, invited me !.i the mo-i polih' and hospitable manlier to
go lo hi.i lodge and have som"thing lo eal ; but I had to decline a.~ he told me pievimisly, in answer lo
a (piention as to how many dajs" join luy it was to I'cul lilliee, ihit we would have to sleep lour or
live linns before we icaidierl it, and thii was now our fourth day fnini the misioii ; and, moreover, I
thmiiihl thai the interior of a wigwam \.i)iild not he a \i ry agreeable place on siii-h a hot day.

While we were spe.ikinu', ihe voiiiig l.idies uhoiii we had so uiiinleiiiioiiallv di>liirlied, eanie down

one by one to see us, Allhough ll
tliev remaineil beliind the biislu s and

leir loilels were (pule coinpic
ill

I eiKil at lis tliroinili ilie In'.iiicnes.

I obi

ipiep.

linlelliioilally

led, so very modest were they, that
llaviii'f nlvcn ihe men some

them '

laeco. and receiving in reiiun a l.irge supply of I'emhina berries (higli-bnsh cr.iiiberrics), we wished

,d-ln,

ml reiumed our jouruev

I"
d liefoi

eh I had lakeii a bearinj; in

We went at the aveia''e lale of fuiir miles an hour, for t«o

lioiirs aii'l a ha

I. ai

111 canipe

III till

loot (ll a

iH'on the south side of tl

llic

end of the lake, and close t<) a 1

ik al

)ont ten feet wide,

•alleil Nipimenaii se|
Th.' v.llev i- I

le-is, or siiiiimcr herrv creel

II re ol ihe >aini- 1
•J.'.O |.i ;.'.l,i(l iei(. 'ihe b.jitoiii i •

L-relohj
ilf

Ihat

ibiiiil one iiiiie, and its deiilh is from

ed wall willow-, nilerpeiH'd wiili young sugar inii[iles, with

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

lici'p imd tliKio ni) ()|)iii pnttli n( loiifj liixiiriiint jjrasp. With soiiil' difliciilty I nmdn my wny lo ilic
U'Vcl ol' till' ))niii'ic, lliroii^li a dt'iisr iiixl liiiiuli'd muss of aspens and lUKU'rwood of willou.s, dtigHdDd,
and ro.sc trees; but llie luiiiilv (if iIk' yloriiitia siniact, and the cool lolresliin^' hreeze that came
iicross the plains mure than repaid tlie tronlde, I need not try to (U'scribe the excecdini; heaiity of
llie i<ecne, lor I eoidd nc;t ; I will merely state wlait the c'oni|)oneiits of the picture were. 'I he sun
just merged from hiliind a liaid< of i rimsoii eioiids rellected in llie waters of Crooked Jjike, part
of the valley In deep shade and pari hiif;hily illtnninated 1 he vivid j^reen of tlie yonni^ poplars on
one si(h', and on the oilier lar;j;c liranile honiders lyii'f; on the hare and nijiireil siirliice of the slope.
The blue smoke of llie v.it;\vaiiis iisiii}; np hi;;li mill slraii^ht from the bottom of tlii' valUy. The
river, with its complicated coiis, <;lidiii,n' amonj; the nillow biishe.s. To the south, the cpnat prairie,
oceaiidike, with its iiiaiiv i-laiids (jf* poplars and single trees, looking; in the distance, and by t\viliir|i|,
hko liceMJmed ship-i. As ihi-: view just dissolves away, another arises very pleasant lo sei', — our camp

lire IS now linrinnLT briLjIilly belo'i, and over it swings a
two men, one busily en;;a'^ed in [irepariiiij

keltic

e, aiKl passinu; roiiiK

betv

■n the lire and the canoe.

Next inornini; (■Jlil.) we started

I and about it are my
pper, tlie other in spreadinj; out the blankets on the

us it was daylight, glad lo escape from onr iiisatiated

tonurlltol's, till
breakfast at ;s ,

(piitoe

and black Hies, that would not let us rest or slee|i

ihl. While at

jfreal tliun hrstorm from tl

ith-west came upon us. Having thrown an

d of the larpanliiif; over the canoe, and resling the other i iid en the piddles stuck into the ground,

it liciieatli it and veiy soon fell fa-t asleep, and slept till I o'clock, wliiMl I was awoke by the

llddc

111), fnr the >tonii had apparcnlly only just then ceased.

he valley and river -lid retain their old itiaracler and diiiien>;on» till we cniiie to the: lowe-t of

idled l\iiirii/iii!(/n-/iiiiiiiii; or Uuuiid l.ake, which varies fioin one mile to half a mile in width, ,

The name is by no means an ap|iropriate one, as it is far from being

and is nearlv live mili

I,.

iMinid. 'I'he mean of .-oiiie

1 took \vas 'Jrt feel, tlie gieali>t lieiiig

■,V)

el. On the sand

hanks which are at the head of the lake, were mvrlads of ducks, and large numbers of geese Were

aliiint Iwo and i\ lia

about
1

ill everv diru'lion, and a few "real nortli<rii divers or

11 If

caiiijied at a |)lace

e> down the rivi'r, called the .''tniiv iJarrier, the C'ree of which is .'isiiii-

jiirhtijtitiiiii.

I'or al'ont IIH) v.-irds in

englli the nv( r

nil of lar

uraiiite boulders,

■ring it cpiite inijias-able for the smallest canoe when the water is low ; at this time the water was

jn-t high eiioii di lo admit of us pa-sing over it.

I'wo milii dou n the river from tlii.> sp'it a btlle .-tri.iin bring-; in ils gatherings from the pr.iiri
on the s^nlli, rejoicing in the name J.<iji('iii:is/i 'i
'■ the women lie."
killed l.v the Ma

/i iiiiiiiiiiii/t Kiiii.-ildlii, wlileh nu

where tl

ijf

till'

x\'<i\ two women, one a

till

;U V.

Klli

Irom \i I
(if ill

C'ree and the
bodies were lel
h eireimisiamc the slieam deiives its nam;-.

other a (111

tin banks I'f ll

stream : tliur

uricd.

jipeway, were

and tliiir

.^kiilLs

Ti,

IS was all inv inforinaiil

ir Kifhiii'dh

-lory.

'II iin' sf tn'sta.

■y\

le next crei

k, which is digiiili(d with a name is the
t 11(1

Liitl

e eiit-

the uriu;iii of which I could not liinl out ; it Hosts in rioin ilie noi'lli

.\ few miles I'lirtlier down ••inolher enek, ten feel ivide and veiy ra[iid, jciii.s the (Ju'Appille on the
lier side; ils I'.iine is l'i:'(i!iiiiii:iniiirc .w/ir.si".?, which mav bi' rendered ii;to I'.iiglisli, "the ."^ei-sor's

The incident lo which
\'ear this

rijiiiiiimn'iiri' siju-sis, winch may lu' remlcreil

Creek;" it is not a viav liteial translation, but is the be-t that can be ^ivi

it owes it^ iiaiiip eshibits

-I"

iiculiar habit of the Indian, but is one thai eaiiiiot he lold

t there is an exp sure of rock on ll

nil sh:

id' ll

iiMc

le vallcv, w

Inch

on examiiialioii proved to

be a shale simil ir lo that on the Little .t'onrls, but so de< (imposed tli.it the aiinaint or direi'tion of its

liip couM not be asee>'taiiied
b, - - .

Th.

i-eeonvt ried into pofi mud, very

fveral extensive piiteho whero the tniliice of the rock hi

it 1 f.

(1 till

niiicli era(
ll

kcd, and oi

I Hliich no !;i'a-s grows.

le iie.id to bo three inches iliiek, then Iraumeiits vei v small and soft.

into

gradually

but

increasing in ,-ize and llardllc^s to a dcptli ot' aboui iwci feet, wluri' the rock is [nrfeetlv hi

very much shaltcred. .Mmnl lifiiin iiiili s In the ia>t of this the rock is again to be seen on ihe south

slope (d'the valley, also milch brokili.

living towards the cast, passed high over our heads, witli-

Oii the '.'(ilh ya-l eloiids of

L;rasliii|iiH'r

I'l"

oiil inteiaii— ion, for neaily two hours, h wa-tlie list la

lit I saw.

■Jl)

liig I'nt-arni Crei'k. or KiilnUs/ni^Ht/iniiiiioKr/ixis, the la-t to be noted, joins the (^ifA) [idle about

ile.s f

ro'ii its monlli, and is the larue^t of its adi

It is '2') feet wide and three ftet de

e it i-Mie- tV.iiii a widi' ravine on the north side. The (in'Apiielle fioiii llienee to ils nuaiili is

from eight to iwilve I'l et deep, and v
mile and a half per hour.

width from 70 lo '.Ml teet, and the rati.

oi current is one

HW IS much ''ooi

I h

ll.i

III llie va

llev fi

oiii the I'i-hing

Lakes to the .\.->iniiih(

but

as it 13

every spring it is (|iieslioiial

I'thcr it will evi r be id' much importance. I'or ti'ii miles

lip It tliere is ail aliiiiidance <>l timber, consisting ol a^p

birch, ami sugar maple

.\c

however, exceeiUng

i' (I

balsam pi plars, elm. Iil.uk ash, oak,

ill dianu ter, and lew .-

Inch is Very beautiful, is chiilly compi

iimlerwiiiKl, u

iiilerlwimd with toiivolvnli and vetches.

d' (h

rose.s,

.s, el

I riles, am

in tl

ilge
1"

Th:

lie jay-;, and Canada jav?

eat

their disioi'dant iiole^

tri;

laviii"' eaten ii

some comiianioiis, c

Iclllifii
ha.-ed

lerrv-oiril

if tl

birds
iind I

ided parts the birds are innumerable. K

I .American uiag|)ii>, liiited from tree lo tn-e uttering
Ills were e.dnily and lisilc--ly perched mi ilie dense

itieoiis were

icir lavonnti' Iruits, while tin' Ivrai

d tl

le crows, ravens,

t llu'alclier, wliea alone or with
id e.igles, who tried in vain to

scape lioiii them. The bcantil'id while-bellied swallow .swiflly skimming the surface of the liver

hell ed in addilion |i

111 the valh v. Ducks and

cri.wd.d the r.ver iov awwd iniie.-; there

I er|ietiially

weie I'liough of llieiii, ! i-huiild think, to supply all the n.arkels in Canada. Mil

orossiiii; ami ic-crussing the river in front of the canoe. 1 was told that deer arc soniotimes very

I a

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

niiint'i'ous in tho vnlley, but I was uiily tbrtuiiiue enough to see two jumping deer who were coming
down to ilio river to drink, but the moment they got ii glimpse of us awny they bounded up the
slnpi'. The only otlier iininiHl we saw was a little prairie wolf, 'logany as he is called by the InuianB,
thai was standing by tho edge of the river, and who was so much astonished at our sudden appear-
ance ihiit III' never tli<)nj>;lit of running away, but stood staring at us incapable of motion.

Tlir wonderful uiiil'iiriiiily of the valley, or that part of it which I have described, necessarily
causes a great dcdl of repetition in tlie description of it; so similar is its character throughout that
my two men, liall'-lirceds, well acenstomed to mark any peculiarities in the features of a country,
siaid tiiat tlioiigli llu y might jiasH up and duwii it several limes they thought they would ofte;i be at a
l()s«i to know III wli.it ])art of it tiny weic. The leiigili of ihe valley from the second Fishing Lakes
to ill junelioii willi llie valley of tie- Assiiinibdine is 11(1 miles, while llie river itself is aliimt '270
miles long, wliicli will ii'wf. an idea oi'ts exirain'diiiaiy lortiioiis course. We arrived at its tenninalioii
on tlie evening if '"Iv "JTtli, and having limilcd up the canoe on the bank, walked across to Fort

Klliee, distant a. luce miles, where 1 waa kindly received by Mr, McKay.

Very truly yours,

Professor 11. Y. Hind, J. A. Dickinson.

'';c. &c. &c.

? i

S I

CHAPTER V.

iKo.M riir Ki.now m- riiK sorrii miiancii <if thi: SASK.\irnr.w.\\ To riiK nk.i'owkwin .mission, o.n

rllK MAIS HASKATI IIKWAN.

Uoek> (Ml till Smith liiaiuli — ('ielaceiiiis--Allilii(le of eX|iii»ure--('lmnuler of — .Seleiiile — I'lisslls —
Ciiiiciitiniis — Mi>:i«katiiniiiiii In ri\ — (liMiacler nC river -Drifl — !{(icl> expii-iires -rilmiiis Lijiiite —
Treeess I'larie — t'riM' ('aiii|) -Mail I'liits — Unok ivposiire -t'oiieri'lions -Treeles* Hanks unil I'rairie -Low
country — l)riitwrii)il—Hi|i|i|f murks — nhiiensions of the Siiiilh Urancli- 'I'lie Moom' Wonils -WiiK r and

Ice marks — I'orcst Tiinher — (lianicU'r ol' llivcr — 'I'leeliss I'rMirie - Hmililers — Siiiiiiiliiii;> Hiilliih'

Diineiisiiins el' Hi»rr — .\ii»ence of .\iiiiiiiil I ile — "The Wooils" — Kale of (inTeiit — Itonhlii's. .Xinm^ii'inint
ol— Anilieial |iavciiM>iit — Tiers of ll.iiihiers — Teinperaliiie — Kalsain ^iiriiee — -Foniiir .\s|nn i'oresi —
(iooil t'oiiiilry — W atei-iii.irks — Soaiiiliiif;s— .\li>eiiec of Amin.il I,ile--Slnitilii il .Mini — f'.ill of llivir —
(liaiMitej of IJiiir -Cohmr anil reii!|nialiii'e ol North anil Soiilh lliaiich — ihe N'orlli liraiieli - .\li«rniT
ol liiih.iii> — (iiiziiy It.ai — t'lnrinl ol' Norih liraiich — Coal falls — Dimensions of .North llraneh —

Boiihiir- — frees — The (iraiiil link Tin Main JSiskaleliewan- I'ort ii la (orne-- t'lihie Keel of Water in

North ami .'south liraneh ami Main S.i-kateliewan.

Tin. lirst roek i xpo-ilie i>ii the Siiiitli liiancli lielow the (iu'Appclle Valley is a cretaceous sand-
stone iiecnpying the river liaiik, unconcealed liy drill for some miles. The altituile of the lii(^liest
part of tlie e.Nposine is »i.\ty feel above the level ol ihi' river. It is capped by about seven teel of
drill, which reposes on twenty feet of soft and easily disinte'rrateil sandstmie of a ])ile yilliiwisli-
grey colour, cnntaining a large number of small, Iniglil, pale, yillow, Hjilieruidal Imdies, varying
from iiiu-leiitli of an imh to inie inch and a half in diameter, anil eoinposed of sand, lielow llii^
soft siialnm there oeiiir- a layer of sainlstoiie alioiit three teel six iiii lies tliiek. wliii-li is broken into
an irri'.'niar jimiiciing onlline by tlw piotrii-inii of a scries of iininense eonirelions, of a flat
splicrioilal form, like that of a lemon slightly coni|iressed at its longest diameter. The ((nieretioiis
v.iry tVoiii three leet to six feet in horizontal <limeiisioiis. They are very bard in the leiilre. oid,
show eoneeiitrie riii'_'s lor at least six ini'lies I'roiii tlieir outer easing, which is a sIhH of gvpsum.
ollcii passing into silenite. Silcnite i^ found in this and lower strata in veins and Iragimiiis. Some
of the enneiitions thrust out tlieir rouniled forins from the face of the dil!', others have been broken
oil' anil -how tlieir internal structure. A gray haililstoiie wiih a slight tinge of green, -oti and Irialile,
then oci iirs fir a space of four leel ; it is succeeded by five teel ol hard sandstone containing a v.ist
nninlier of oli-eiire cvlindrical forms, slightly eoniial, composed of sandstone and showing oeeasionally
trace- of nrgaiiizalion. Melow this straliim a layer of Handstone oeciir-i, six leet thick, liohliiig
spheioiifil form-, which vary in si/e from six inelie- to two feet in diameter; they are composed of
vellow sand containing a hard central ealcareons nucleus often six inches to one foot in diameter, and
composed almost altogether of an aggregation of Arinilii Srlirnncnnn, (I'.vaiis and .Sluiinard.) The
stratum in which they are imbeddeil holds Aririiln I,iiii/iirrjiiniih, (Evans and .'^liiimard.)

A second layer of huge concretions then occurs, similar in external a-peot to those alrcailv
described. Uelow them there is a persistent layer of hard calcareous sandstone about four feet thick,
eoiiiaiiiiiig .Iviiiihi f.im/tiiffnnnis, (K and S.)

The lowe-t -trainin exposivl is a soil sandstone about si.x feet ;d)ove the river, and passim; beneath
its level. This rock is worn into caves by the action of water. The part ot' the formation exposed
is nearly hori/ontal, with a slight north-westerly dip. For several miles this rock eontiniies to form
the river bank. 'I'lie concretionary ma-scs are persistciil, bold, and promineiil ; and alioiit three
miles in a mnlh-westerly direction from tiie point where tlicy were Hrat ob-ei ved, llio.sc of the lower
Btratiini are nearly on the same level as the water, thus showing a norih-westeily dip of about three
feet ill the mile

SASKATCHEWAN KXPLOUING KXPEDITIOX.

Tin: rnutiFF.

*«|^ilvyi^i;#ji^:-.'

Uiil'l.

2.Ui.i.ici=»J " . - -

'•CSnrr^-

'>iC&'

Krinlile pale yellow ish-firoy
Sn nil stone.

iisi ('(iiuTi'iioiiiirv liiv^'

Siuulstiinc.

luildii

USa> O ©. s^i L^ ^jay

IlAnl .Siinilstmu'
lirulrii'Hl ronns.

Siif't SantUtime willi coiicrt-
tidiis Cdiitiiinin^j Aviviiia
Nfhriisiann.

-I

Si-comi i-oiUTt'titmary layiT.

liiru calcnreous 8An()<
witli /frtcu/ij fjtii/utrftrmi*.

S^ifl SiiniUtune.

Till' Imnkg iif the riviT slope gently from the pniirie on tlic soiitli-west siile to nil iiltiliide nl' unoiit
•250 feet; lliey then hcconie iiliiupt. On the north-west !(i(le the siiiidsloiK' elill', viiaing Inmi yo to

(iO fcit in iihitudo, rises iil)ni|itly limii llie river,
then liillowH a hilly slope to the pniii ic level. Trees,
enii^iHting ehiefly of nspen anil the Me.saskiitoniina
(la l'(iire), lire found in patches on hotli lides.
'I'lie river eonlinues alioiit hall' a mile liroiid, with
niimeruiiN sand-hiiii' md low alliiviiil i^l:iiid!i. 'i'lie
diiCt aliove the Haiidsloiie is jjinveliy, and many
sniall iiaiid dimes iieciir on the hill bank nlopiii^ to
the pniirie, and have priij;ressed heyniid the priiirie
to a eoii'iderahle distnnee. A treele-s piiiirie,
bouiidles.' and j{ieeii, eseept where the pilehcs nf
drifting sand occnr, is visible on either hand iVoin
the top of tin- hank; below the river glides with u
strong current, two and two and a half ni"i s an
hour, lilling the broad trench or valley it has ('loded.
The Mesaskatomina berry {.tmitaiiehiir Cdmideiii!^)
la I'oire, is very abiindaiit ; shrubs or trees 18 to
•JO feel high, loaded with this fiiiit perfectly ripe
and of excellent llavonr, are iinineion.4 in eve.-''
grove; the heriie.s arc of the size ol' large black
cinranli*, very juicy and sw'.'et. T'liis shvub is tiie
La I'oire of ihc Kcd liivcr voyageius.

During the inorning of lliis day (."list .Inly)
three Ciees from a camp on the east bank came to
the river, they shouted to lis, asking us to land, an
invitation we declined. About Vi miles below
the Qii'Appelle the river becomes narrower, being
not more tlian a i|iiarler of a mile broad, but fiilt
of mild Hats and slioal>. The banks are more
sloping, and IVc(|iiently broken into two plateaux,
Ham calcnrcoiu SnniNtonc till' iipjier line hiliig tile prairie. The lower pla-
teau is dotted with small groves, the intervals eoii-
.sisling of pretty grassy aliMs, smooth as a lav.ii.

About l.'J miles from the Qu'Appelle valley the
drift is occasionally exposed in elills, which disclose
its structure 'JO to .'10 feel above the river. It
consists of coarse sand stratified in curves, and
often containing beds of gravel ; it is also fre-
(|iiciilly cajiped by the ^aine material with small
boulders. The dip of the rocks to the north-west,
and the aspect of the drill appiar lo indicalo a
geological depres>i()n, which may have been the seat of a Urge lake diiiiiig larlicr [iirinds.

Some exposures of sandstone appear on the river at intervals lower down, and the drill above tlicin
is well stiatilicd with layers of boulders of the same character as the saihlstone below, and so regu-
larly placed a.s to lead, when viewed tiom a small distance, to the belief that liny are part of rock in
po-ilion. Thirty miles from the Qii'Appelle the rock appears on the soutli-W(>t >idi', and consists of
a wliiu' sandstone, with imprcs-ions of fiagments of leaves, anil some brown tiliroiis lii^iiite.

.\ treili>s prairie wiili a lew sand dunes foiiiis the cdiintiy on lither side for a distance of 4'J
mile-, which comprised the extent of our voyage during the <lay. As evening began to close upon
us we coiiie to a camp of Cries just after they had crossid the river They iiiiinlieicd 111 lints, and
in order lo avoid them we drilled several miles further down, and built our lire close lo the river at
the mouth of a small giilly leading from the prairie, '200 feet above lis. Mini flal.s anil sandbars
colli iiiiie as before, but the river is not more than a third of a mile broad.

A narrative of a canin voyage down .i river (lowing through a prairie country must ncce-sarily
involve numerous discripiive repetitions, which will appear perhaps less tedious and iiiiae readalilc in
the form in which lliey wire regisieied at iIm; time in my note book, than if I were to attempt a
conneeted narrative. I shall iherelore strictly follow the daily rceoril of what we observed, at the
risk of its being iiolliing more than a dry eniimeratloii of not very iiileresting facts.

August 1st. — round a fine exposure of rock on the rivt r bank where we camped last iiighl. There
is a change in the aspect of some of the strata. They occur massive, in rusty red and greeiiish-grav
sandstone layers, with the concretionarv bands us before descrilied. A belt of siindstoiic twelve feet
from the river level is capped by brown and red argillaceous layers forty feet thick in the aggregate.
Drift sand, ten feet thick, lo the prairie level succeeds. The upper portion of the drill is hard and
reddish coloured ; as it approaches the clays below it partake ol an .irgillaceons character. The
upper stratum of the sandstone weathers reddish brown, with bands of deep red and purple. Hdow
this a greenish-gray stratum occurs, enveloping more concretions of a redcli-h-brinvn colour. 1 he
eoncretii'iis are bard and argillaceous. The greenish-gray matrix is soil when weatlured, otherwise
hard, and may be split without ditticulty into thin l.iyers. The concretions occur in the samistone in
forms easily detached, and often contain abundance of Ai'ifiilii I.iiii/ii(ilori/.i.<. ll' iIk' clivs above the
sandstone are rock in pusttion, the exposure has an altitude of about (ill kcl. I'raguu iits ol lilnoiis

I 4

Ski rios on tiik Soi i ii IIii.vm ii nr tiik J^aska ri iik
WA.N'.snowixo Com UKriiiNAiiv i.avkiis iiiu.oiso
Jvirtttn Sfhnixi'fitia ami Arifulii Liii^tiiffurmis.

UKPoins OK 'nir, assinxihoixk ano

lifjiiili', :l:irk lii'own iiiiil mhih liiMcs iijipiDiii'liiiiii Ik black in cdlour, iict'iir in llie ?iiii(Ntii
Hliilmli' 111' llii' I'ork-i i.-" iM'iilv liDii/niiiiil. 'I'lio i{i('i'iii.|i-^i'

llV ?iiml-l(IIK' H M

Initi

. Tl.
illi til

I'iK'liA sci'ii (III till' Miiilli lii'iiil III tlic ( jd'Apiii liu iili<ivi> Sill I Hill l.iki'i till' rcil layers nil' HMniliii'
iilliiilouically in iIiuhi' iil)st'r\>'<l at tlic liri;;lit nl lain! In tlii' I'aiiic valliv. Iioliliii.; ilic name s[iiciiM nl

slu'lis. SoiiU'linii^ lavii'* ol jjrav siniUlimc iictiii' wliuli aii' t ii.-.i

Iv Mil, I i ll

ii'v foiiliiiii llic im|)i'i"<-

Vallc

lis and ivrnaliH ul' |ilanl.'', 'I'lu' |Misitiiiii nl' llicKt' I'hcIvh !-< aloiiit lilly iiiilcs rrmn llic (jii'A|i|ii'llc

Till! I'ivir lianks ami llic wlmii' cuiPilrv 'h mhw mm Ii Inwri

'I liij Milii

iili'iirr l)i'){an aliuiit rnnr

ilK'D IVoin iiiir camp smilli of n;*. 'I'lu- b.iiiK" at uui' camp arc mil inoic llian niic linnih'cil rtit in

nllillldc, and arc miliiij; Inv •.■!• as wc pi
lillicr •-lilc, willi lew (It lailiiil cxcc|it
tilt' lead liillv lwi> miles and a liall' an lumi'.

I'll iiiHlli, Tlicv nil' Ircilc

I ilic >'<, ami Hii IS till' pianic nii

'i lie liver i> aliiiill liidl' a mile liniad, wilii a cinr( lit in

liril'teil lice.1 are siiinelinieH ni'i'll mi llic licai li.

iiid (iiie iiiiK' was

Muiinlaiii''

noliicd tlii." imiriiinu;. Tliey liavc pmiialiiy iravelli'd IVmii llie llaiiks nl tlie Ho.'ky

ill's r

AliiMit twelve iiiili's rrmii (iiir camp, ir <iO mile< IVuni tlio KIImiw, CoristH nf asjien licfjiii to slmw
tliciiisi'lves (III llie liank-i, al'ler p.isi-iiw,' tlirmiuli a low coniitiy. wli'uli is an expannioil nf tlie liver

viilley. Hippie inark> ai\' iiiimirims nn tlie lic>li niuil, llie furrows lyiiij; p nallel to tin iiisc ol llie

t, and similar to tliose olitnived on lied Itivi r in the sprint,'. Tl

■|

lev are (|ilile ri cell

asli-liavcd iiiaple iK^fiiM li sliow it-elf. hut the ii^piii is tiiL' prcvailiii;; tree. 'I'lic womls arc iml
(•(miiiimiiis, ami tlic pr.iirie en either side of the river ri mains hire ; il is fast rciiiiiiiinij its liirnicr
aiiilii'le. Sand hills are visdile ill llie di>t nice friaii the lep nf the hank. I.a i'nirc is vi ly ,'ihmiil ml
and line llivmned. The ixpu-cd (■lill'> cnu-i-t of ri'ddi->h In.iiii, and the rncK is iin Iniii^er seen lieluw
thi'iii. At a piiiiii fil'ty-tline inih .•. hum llie I'.lhnw vve iiuide a careful sccliiiii of the rivrr, and fniiiid
lis hicadth In he nearly nm-thiid ol' a mile (2M chains) ; iis j^reau -l ile]i'li was ten feel nn llie ('a^t
side, lint on the west side there is another chaiiiul will, nine leet nf water,

M of low alluvial

ivceii a serii

As \vi iippniaclied the .Moosc Wood, we pa-^C(l for .cral linnrs hit
i-lands fruiii ten to twelve feet ahuvc llie water. They sii-l,iin some line ilin. Iialsam poplar, a-h. a^li-
leavid liiapf', .Mid a vast prolusion ni' La I'nire. i'lu' river valley is hnandcd hy low lidl- le.idin;.; In

the pr.iii'i'' plaliaii tniir to e

'III iiiilis hack. Tlio cniinlrv lure fnriiid

II s an I'M'i

llelll

(li-,lricl Ini tl

(-.lahli-hmi'iit lit a sellh iiieiil.

The spot will re we are laiiipid ha' the iiijjlit i-^ an i \li n^ivc, open.
iindiil.iliiiL; iiiiailow, with loni; rich i{r,i.vs. and on the low ulevatiolis rose hiishcs in hhioiii ^'I'nw in the
'.^realist prolii-ion. ll is only tin feet from the watei'i Ml it duc-i not appear to he llooded in the
spring;: wali r-maik.s and ice-marks are now lierc seyii above four fiel from llie prt'sciil level (d the
broad rivi r.

uiuu

■I -Jiid. - T

:)f the Sa-katc

lie re;;ini) c
II

lUnl the Abn-e Woods, which ue entered l.isl iieiiiii'', i- a dll.ilalion

chen.in, Ihmiii;' ihroiii'h an cMen^ive alluvial Hat .-ix

bre.idlh, and cut inio

niiiiieroU' island^ bv the ( li.in;^ili'',' eoiir-e of ihc t^treani. 'I li;s Hal is bounded bv

saiiil-liiil-, some (

W'liieh ail' nnlhiii^' more tli.iil >lii:iili,Lr diiiu.-
of li.ibini popl.ir. white wooil

ids are ill patches, and in the low land ioiii.isl

The
mall allien climiiis cover t!ie li

dl-.

lint no liviii_' nmlier

ol imporl.iiicc ha- been sieii a- yet, allhouiih many line dca',1 tiiinks aie vi-i'«li', prohalily doir

iVCll

v (iie. The liver continues to Mow tliiiiiii'h a broad alliivi.il l!,it for ahoiil Iw.nlv-live mih- lis

water is veiy Unhid, like lh.it nf ihc .\!i-slsMp;ii. hoMiii^ mikli >olid 111 liter in mci'lianiial
Bllspcll-ioll.

Diyond the .Moose WooiU the I'aiiks close upon the liver, and li.ue an ahitiide not i \ceeiliiij; si\ly
feet. 'I he hr.adth id' th.' -In all! eontraets to 'J.jll yard>. with a i iineiit fully ihiic miles an hoiii'.

ps of a.-peli. (ill llic west sicie it ii

On till' east bank ill

e lirailK^ IS occ.i

sioii.dlv wooded with

Ircclcss, and show - many -Hid lidU Diirini; tin afleriioon ive laiidi-d freipioully to sin vey the siir-

li^hlly niidiilaliiiL; pr.iiric w,i- vi>iolc ; in. my lar.;e fr.;jj

roniKlin^ conn

trv. Nothing bill a

mini- of him .-loiu' not much u..iir-Horn lie on the hilbhaiiks of the liver, w
altiliide. 'llie river continue- very swilt, and iimintain-v a l.rei;dth of •J.jil yards. 1
diiriii'' the (lav show

liicli i- about lot) feet in

I'd a dcptli nf tl II to twi Ive feet. A little liiiibir displays il-ill

rc'inciit soiimliu

the east bank below the hvel oi' the la.iirie.

The dead In

oceaMoiially oil
ll' biiji'.do are seen lloalin;; dnuii the

stream, or loilmd on siiclbar.s ill shallow wall r. The b.ink- expose oceasiniialiy yi 1 ow diil't clay
with niimeloiis boulders ; the soil of the prairie appears In improve as we projjre-- i.ni ihw.irds, and

the ';ra>s is no loiiifcr stiiiileil am

1 ivilhi

l.iltl

e raiiid- occur at the bends ol the river, but llu n

is always deep waler on ihe ollc r -id.'. .\ heavy tliiindci.-lorni coinptlled ii- l.i e.mil

I twii hours

bef

ore siin-cl

Anyiist ."iiil. — The ri

ver I- no

I mole ill. Ill -ilO yards broad, bill iKcp and swill; the vohmie of

Wiiter il carries here, about eiolilv miles from the (iriind I'nrks, is iniieli les-il

laii at the

I'db,

wli! re il i- half

lie broad. .\

(1 (loiiht i'Vii|ior

atioii diiriii'r its cniir-c ihroimh arid iilains i^ eoni-

pileiil In net a-ioii .-i lari^'c .iiininntioii. Iteeiiil w.iler-marks show a li.-c nl live and eitjlit feet, hut
iieir the tnp nf the lowest h.nik -Handed timber occnis Iwinly-live feci above the present level of the

On biilli sides a Ireele

ir.oiie I- alone vi-.lile.

Th,

a lemarkablc ab-eiiee of aiiimil lilc

no deer or hear have' been seen j tracks of bulliiln are everv where, but tlnv liave alrcidy

ll to ihi

ea-l. T'hi

fe( t above the rivi

it- are enid, but line, dcw very abundant. '1 he pr.iiiie level it not more ihail ei^litv

At rt a.m. we arrived at a ]> irl of the river where il -honed an iiu'i'ia-,e in breadth, it is now about
i\ 'rter of a mile bro.al, -till il(<wiiit.' liiroiiLdi a treele^s plain, in which only one low hill is vi-ibh

•111

i.ira.ler eonliiiiies for iiianv miles, the hill banks then bei;iii to increase in altitude, and are

iiDoi.l loo leet liiu'h, bill ihe river llow> tliroii;.'li a ilreiiry treele-s plain fir ."iit miles from onr c.im|

ulier which ■' 1 lie W'oods

!is ihev are termed, Ik

ill! ; thcv cnli-iat of a te

w eliimps of iispeii on the

SASKATCHEWAN EXPT.ORING EXPEDITION.

7»

i;; si\ly

II l.ciUI'.

(■ it H

!■ >m'-
I,-.:--

cct III
lill-s

llv .Ml
u M the

i rl.iv
'. iillil
till I'C

licHirs

mil' lit
Kllii.w.

U Cdlll-

i^t. Iiiit

of till'

il lilts
III the
li^lity

;iliiiiit
vi'-ililc.
ml :iru

(';iMi|i,
uii the

OI.ISIIK.I) .\N1) (lUdOVKll I'AVK.MKM' UK IIIIL LIIKIIS (IN llIK SOI Til IIUAMII.

Towards ovcniii^ tlic rotiiitry ln'uaii to iiii[n-ovi', and llio timber to iiicliuk' a (vw elm and hircli.
In the prairie are eliimiis (ilie-jieii. On tiie (lats, wliieii occur rejj;uiarly <m tlie inside of eacli liend of
tile river, «itli sleep clay clill-. on tlie outside oftlie curve, line aspens are coumion, and tlic lierbage
id very luxuriant.

Auf^ust 4tli. — Temperature of air at 8 a.m. (>!'', oi" tiie South liranoii, (>7°. The halsam-sprucu
begins to appear in groves. The river winds between liigli wooded banlis, witli low points and wooded
bottoms on one side : high clid's also wooded with aspen and uprucc groves on tiie opposite liank. 'I'lie
flats are covered witli a rich prolusion of vetciies, grasses, ami rose bushes. There are traces every-
where of u former fine aspen forest, witii chimps of elm and ash; tlie dead trunks of these trees, 18
inches in (hameter, being l'ie(|uently concealed by tlie undergrowth, olfc-r a rude and stubborn
obstacle to pmgriss on loot tlirongh the tangled mass of vegetation which covers the rich flats. A
view obtained from a lov.' hill coming down to the banks of the river, continues to show a deep valley

REPORTS OF THK ASSTNNIBOINK AND

.ill

l^i

about tlirt'c i|iiiirtfri of n mile brouil, tlirniigh wliicli ilir rivrr wiiiilii I'roni «iiic lo tide in inntrnificent
ciirvcH, 'I'iii- iiiili^ht'il iiiivfincnl on tin- Imiikn wim tV('(|ii('ntly i"'i'ii iliirinn tlu' rlny, with "t "irrow*
iind Ncratclii'K. Dnilii^ llu' wlioK- iirirriinoii wr pan^ril swiftly lliruu^'li ii uiiod I'luiiiiiy . '' lUul, it
till' III* wt' cuiild jiid^c I'loiii Miiil iiiiil V('|{('lalMiii, lor o'tlliiiiuiit. Inliind^ iil'c iiiimrroiii' 'm h ' rivur,
und vsti'iiiiivi' iiliiivlal Hal.'< iKciir in mi u\|iaii'>i()ii nl' tlif valli'V. 'liic wutci'-iiiitrltii arc tt'er . ■ 'i ii luul
iiilii- i'c'i't abnvi' the |irt'Ki'iit level. 'I'lu' liaiiK.- <it' liioic clay, kIicii not )irut<'i't('d by the >>,<cniiiit
bi'liirc dcsci'ibrd, arc licliig uiidi'riiiiiicd, and liill liit by bit iiitu l\w river. A violoiit tliiiiidcr^torni
at 5 v.M. c'>iii|icllcd ii!< til camp.

August .'illi. The early part of the mnriiiii^ waH employed in oxnniiiiin); the mirroiindMig uniintry,
wliicli j(uve evidence iil'aii excellent soil, and limber :<iitHcicnt tor the (irit piirponi'H of settlorn. .Much
of the timber, however, has been bin lit, and the coiinlry is last becunilii^ open prairie land. SomidingH
yesterday showed 10 to I t lect waicr in the cliniinel : tiie CMirrvnt miilntaliis its speed of three lu
three milcit and a half an hour. Throiiglioiit the i ntire lcni>th of oiir vi>yaj{0 we Imve liceti siirprited
at the extraonhnaiy absence of animal life. ( )f ipindriipeds, we have seen half u do/cn wolves, twu
ur three bad^eis, scvcrul beaver, >kiink<, minks, lii\ct. and a ininiber of dead bnlfalo ; of birds,
eagles, f;eesi', n lew ducks, kingfishers, clilf niarliiis, |iigeoiis, crows, cranes, plover, hawks, and a few
of the itiiiallcr birds; but no deer or bear, or li\e biilValo; and if we bad been eoinpellcil to depend
altofrether upon our guns for a supply of provisions, it is probable that our voyage of MM) iiiLlcs
ilowii the South liranch would have been atleiiilcd with some ineonveliienee and delay. Karly in
siiring and late in the iiiitiimn game i^ more alMinilanI, but during the summer scaHon the miiallcr
rivers in the prairie>, the ponds and iakc^ which alHiimd throughout (be country north of the
'roiii'hwood IlilN, lo be afterwards described, are the liannts of vast numbers of lupiatie birds and of
the larger fuiir-footed animals which now lurin (he .small remnant of the earlier representatives nf
animiil life in these wilds, before the lur trade leil lo theii dettruetiuil) either lor the sake uf their
llesh or skins.

'riie stralilleil layers of finu mud liefore described wire loiiiid again thia inorniiig 40 feel troiii the
water's edge, above the liori/ontal layer ol boulder^ which ban again made its appearance. The
siiiall aggregation^ of .sand are still distributed between the thin layers of line clay. A great change
is coming oM r the chiiraclcr of the stream ; ils fall, as ascertained by levelling, is two feel three
inches in ihe mile, wiili a very rapid current, sometimes six miles an hour. Large boulders are
numerous in the bed of the ri\er, bin there is always a passage from ."iO to <>() yards broad, ofii'ii,
however, very tumiiluioiii. and for a small heavily ladi iiiil canoi', idugh, ami at times ha/ardoiis. The
hill banks are getting higher as we a|iproaeli the North Ibaiiih lial.sam spruce appears in palchet
ami -liipe>. The rivir sweep* in grand curves at the f lot of high bllill's, in which line expo>urcs of
the ilrift may he seen ; on the opj.osite ..ide are low alluvial points covered with aspeiiH, thick and
impenetrable. Yellow clay elill's, I'JO feet high, ajipi^ar at the outside curve of the bends, and where
the adjoining llals begin, balsam sprine. two feet in diameter, is not uncoinmun.

At hall-past two pin we arrived at the North lliaiich, coming upon it suddenly and finding
ourselves in ils waters almost before we were aware of ils proximity. The temperature of the South
Mranch was 07", of the North Mraiicli li'J" an important dillcri'iice at this season of the year. It is.
perhaps, a fair stiindard by which lo estimale the climalic character of the regions of country
ihroiiiih which these rivi'rs (low, in rehilion to ai;riculliire. The difl'ereuee in the lime of the
ri|ieiiiiig of fruits on the two Ibanches has already bei'ii iioliccd ''See pige ,'M. par. 'JO. i The
waler of the .South Itranih is yellowi'h-brown in colour, and turbid; of the North Itraiu li, a shade
lighler. and eleanr 'I'he one more n scmbled the waters of the Missi>sippi, the other those of the
St. Lawrence. The South liranch is the larger river of the two at the (irand luirks, .M'ler resting
for some lime at the junction of these mighty rivers, the .South liranch lu'ing about lf<0 ynnU, llie
North Hrancli 140 yards broad, their currents meeting one another at the rate of three-and-ii-liiilt'
miles an hour, we turned our canoe up .stream and atlempliKl to stem the tide of the North Ib'anch
of the .'Saskatchewan in search of the Coal lalls.

With the exee|itiou of thet'rce eiicanipnient passed during the lirgt and second ilays of our voyage,
we did not meet with a single Indian or iMll-breed. (luce or twice, smoketi, which from ihcir being
soon answered in another quarter, we presumed lo be signals, and might be ruis<-d by lllai kfeel in
the distant prairies, appeared on the west side ol the river. The plan we ailopled one nighi when
ilanger wa.- apjireliendeil, was to cook our supper early in the evening uiid then drill down llie river
at >uii>et for a few miles.

Once only wcri' we disturbed in camp, and this may or may not have been a false alarm. Iloth of
our half-hrei'd> came into the tent some time afler we had rilired to rest, anil in a low tone
whispered a griz/lv bear,' at the same lime seizing a ritle and a double-barrelled guii which wtie
purposely placed at the foot of tlu' teiil ready tor any unwelcome inlinder u|ion our repo-e. The
night was d.irk and the tire nearly out. ()iir men declared they bad seen a large animal within lU
yards of us. and proiioiiiired il to be a grizzly bear; the alarm they test died was the only jiroof of
the presi'iicc of ihal terrible aniiiial, for the ])atient watching of the whole party during the greater
pan of the niglil, and a careful search for tracks next morning faileil to satisfy me that we had been
disturbed by this deservedly dreaded moiiHter of the Western I'lailis.

'I'hat the grizzly bear is somelimes found far down the .South Hraiich is a well known fact, and he
is such a daring and foriniduble iintiigoiiist that proper preeautioiiH are always advisable. A large
camp fire often fails tu deter this animal from making an attack, and when a large fire might attract
the attention of wandering jiarlies of HIackfeet which were known to be following the Crecs, who
had crossed the river some distance above us, it wiiuld not have been wise to have availed ourselves
of tliis (loublfiil security. Our camp was at the edge of a clili'; we therefore were sure of not lieing
attacked in our reur, uiid the greater part of the night was passed in (juietly watching the open space

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. n

in front of uh It wm tlio ileHilv (Iptcrminntimi of the liulf-bru^dii tn wntoli, nftt-r it fiitiftuin^ <lBy,
thru It'll lilt' In i<ii|i|io»<i tlii'V hull rciilly nrcii n ^ri'/'/ly lu'iir, for iiiiiU'r oi'diniiry rircuiiMluin.'i'H no
pi'opir all' no iiiiwilliii^ (o witlcli (luring llic iii^lit in the |iriiii-ii' im tliov- wlio hiive llvrd tlii' ^rriittr
part (if tlx'ir llvrs in llii'iii. willimit liii)' liiivr tin- lii'Ht itMisiins fur k('i'|iiii|( tln'iiiiU'lvi'H iiwiikc.

During tlii' aficrniMin of tlir rttli iinil initrniii^ nf tlic titli of Aii^iiHt wo occupiril uiirii'lvfH in
i\rnftn\\\H tilt' caiiDc up the Niirlli llraiicli. i'aililliiii; uai ipiiti' out i>f tli<* i|iit^>itiiin, tlit' curri'nt
lifin^ friiiii xix in M'Vcii niiliH an lioiir a fi'W Ininilri'ii yariln alinvr th*' Korkn, nml ('(iiiiinuin){ rapiil
ftir a ili'>lnni'i' nf si'vi'm inili"<, that *ii'in^ ilu' fiirtlii'.-<t limit nf nnr i-xplnratinii up the Ntirtli Hriiiich.
'I lii^ rapid iMirrt'nt i* niaintaint'il for i'i;;liti'rn nnli'4 alinvc llii' < >ranil I'lirkn: llif vallt'y i>f tlii' riviT,
n> fir a" »<' >au it, ri'si'nilili's In aliimtl all pariit'ular'* tlic la^t ti'ii iiiili"< of llir Siiiiili llraiii'li ; llw
rivi'r I'liiinnol i^ iimicIi innrt' (ilis|riii'ti(l liy IhiiiIiIi'I''. anil llif ilt'plli and voliiiiu' of water I'liniidrralily
icD^. It is iliiMl'tfiil ulicllit'r in ilH pri'Hi'iit rondition a sti'anii'r ilrawiiipr nioro tliaii tun li'i't nf water
ciiidil ait'i'nd il, and in dry srasniiH the limildirs and rapiiU would proliahly present an inHiiporalile
iilwlarle, I'lie rivei' «a» lii){li at tlie lime of imr vinit, and aliiint If*'* yariUln'oad! neverllielt'sH in
dext'iidiiin; we liail a few narrow esfapeii from mrikiii^; auaiiiHt lni>;t' btmlders jnm enriccaied by tlio
water. If 4IIIIII' of tlit'M' were removt'il, iliu thief dllMt^iiltit'rt iliirin^ low Huniiner U'vcIm to stfaiiieri
III shallow draft and ^real power would vanisli.

'I'Ih' ehiiracter of the Coal Falls, above the point we reached, is denrribed by tlic people at I'ort
i\ la ("oriie It) be similar to the pai t we «aw. The hill banks expose ilrift in which lar^ie masses of
eretaceniis rock are imbedded t'onlaiiiiii>{ fish scales. I'raijments nf lignite are numerous, hut no
roek was seen in position, 'i'he breadlh nf the valley is ahniit half a mile anil l&H feet >leep ; tho
river wiiiiU from sitje tn side like the Snut'. Ilraneh. The Inw poiiils are eovered with aspen : the
hill banks with white spriice, aspen, baiikslan, pine, and poplar. .Inst below the jnnrtion of the two
branches, aller iliey imiln to form the main S,i>katchew:in at the (irand Forkii, there in nn nxU'iiHivc
(lit, tin which the remains of an old post of tlie Company in siiuated.

'riie main .s(a-katehewan is a noble river, sweeping; in ma({ni(icient eurvfs ihroiixh a valley iibont
one mde lirnad, and frnm l.jO to 'JIMI feet tieep. We paddled ra|iidly round i'i;{ht points, mnkiiifr a
distance of «i\it'eM iiiih'H in three Imurs, and Inwards eveiiini; sinhleil I'nri I'l la Corne, with the
N'epowewin .Mi«Hion on the opposite or north side nf the river. As llie description of tho
Saskatchewan ami the valley in which il (lows al l''ort a la Corne applies etpially to the river belweeii
it and the (irami I'orks, it is unnecessary to incur tlie i i»k nf ncdli'ss repetilinn by einimeralin;; the
fcalmt's t>f each of the cij;iit points or beiiiN we pas-eil, and the character of the valley llirniifjii
»vhich the river (lows. .\t Fori a la ( 'nrne we made mcasm cuients of its leadini; dinieiisinns, a si elion
of ihe bell of the river (see sheet nf siiiion«,) ascertained its rate nf enrrcnt, examineil the clill's,
points, and (hits, which are so i:iu'ion..ly reprodueed al every bend both above and biOiiw for iiianv
miles, and which wdl be amply siidicient to illustrate the most interesliiij; and important feature- of
this noble stream belweeii the (iranil Forks and a short dislanii' below Fort ii la Corne, alter which
the couMlry begins tii a-siime a did'erent aspect, and will ri'(|uire an indept'iidcnt notice.

An approximate estinmie of the number nf cnbiir feet of water paasin^ down the South Branch,
North Uraiu'h, ami Main Saskatchewan, jjives the followini; luindierH : —

Cnt>it' ftft per tiniir.
Sonlh Hranch ...... lij:»,4'.'.'»,(iir»

North Hranch -.-... <i ! ,0 1 1 ,3li0
.Main Siuskate.hewau, at Fort a la Corne - - - 2l4,441,"-'!)0

Main Smkateiiewun near Tearing Kiver - - - -200,970,000

CHAPTER VI.

FRD.M FOUT A l..\ ton.NF, TO FOIIT ELLICG, AND KOUT F.LLICF. TO Tilt'; IlEI) KIVKR SETTLEMENTS.

Sanily Strip* on the i<n.skatcliewiin — Hatikaiun Pine — FincCoiiiitry — Long Creek — Olil Forest — Fires, extent of

Kxtciisiiiii of the I'riarifs — Former F.xteiit of Wiioilecl Cmiiitiv — F.th'tt of Fires — l.tinj; Creek — llay (iromiil
— Moles— Iluniiility of Clininte— Source of l.oiif; Creek— The Hireli llilU — Flowers — Aspect of Cnamry

— Carrot Itiver — Tlie I.uiupy Hill of the Wotiils — t.akes — Tlic Wooileil Cnuniry — F'liriiier extent nf

Limits nf jiootl Laiul — Uii«|ilM'rries — Mosipiitnes — 'I'lie lleifjlit of Land — Conlimiation of the Kyclirow Hill
iiui(!e — Valley inosculaliiin with Smitli ami Nortli lirancli of tlii' Suskalcliewnn — (irii.sslioppirs— CliiiriU'ter

of the Country — Ilirils — Destrui'tioii of Fiirest> — Tlic lli^' Hill - liouhlcrs — Limit of Womletl CiMietry

Hells of W'lioil — (ireat Prairie — Character of the Coiinlry — Sail Lakes — The ruiit'hwooil Hills — Deauiifiil
Cmiiitry — Kxcelleiit Soil — The Uuill Lakes — Flowers — White Cranes — The Heart Hill — The Last Mountain
— The Little Touchwuoil Hills — Lakes numerous — Touehwonil Hill Fort — ■Ka-oii-tu-at-tin-ak — Touehwuoil

Hill ItauKe — Lon|; Lake — Devil's Luke — (Jurtlen at the Fort — White F'ish in I.ong Lake — Hurnt Forest

(iriisshoppers — Winter Forage for Horses— While Fish— Hiillalo— .Meilieine Man — Climate of Touchwood
Hills— Huniidity of— Trail tn Fort F.llice— Marshes — Little Touch wood Hills— Chnraetcrof Country ehanges
— Depressions— Pheasant Mountain — Character ol the Country— Heavy Dews — Hoar Frost — Cut-nrin Creek

Willow I'rnirie— Little Cut-arm Creek— Itolling Prairie— Altr.ietive Country — Spy Hill — Houhlcrs

Aspen (iriivcs increasing — Sand Hills — Tho Assinniboine — Dimensions of Valley near Fort Kllice The

Riding .Mountain — Kapid Hiver — Character of the Country — VVell adapti^d for Settlement — Timber of the
Hiding Mountain — Hiids — Cretaceous Shales— Pembina Mountain — White Mud River— Clmnicter of the

Country — Forest Timber — Fish — Luxuriant Vegetation — Lake .Manitobah — Fishing Station — Red River

Assinnihuine Prairies — Arrive at the Settlements,

The trail from Fort ii la Corne to the okl track leadiii<{ from Fort Elllce to Carlton House ascends
the hills forming the banks of the deep eroded valley of the Saskatchewan in the rear of the Fort. It

K 2

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

passes through a thick forest of smnll nspens until near liie siimniit, wiit'ii a snmly soil bcfjins, covered
with Bniiksian pine and a few small oak. 'I'liis sandy area occupies a narrow strip on tlie lianks of the
river, varyini; fioni half a mile to four miles broad. South of the sandy strip the soil clian}{es to a rich
black mould distributed over a f;ently undulalliij;; country; the pine fjives place to aspen aiul willows in
groves, the aspens occnpyin"; the crest of the midulations, the willows tlio lowest portion of the
intervening valleys. On the slopes the ijrass is loM{; luul luxuriant, alVordiny; line pasturaj^e. The
fjeneral aspect of the country is highly favourable for ngricidture, the soil deiji and luiil'orudy rich,
rivalliufi the low prairies of Red Kiver and the Assinniboine. t)ur coin-»e lay along the banks of Long
Creek, which Cows in a smnll depression parallel to the .South ISrancli ol' the !^a^katcllewan, and enters
the main river near Fort a la Corne.

August lOtli. — During the wlioh? of yesterday afterniK)n we passed through a good farming country.
The remains . iiNpeu forests, in which trees of large growth are ininierous, iue still to l)e seen in
solitary eluinp--, or with blackened trunks lie hidden in the long luxuriant herbage initil rudely
encountered by the carts and horses as we push our way through the rank tangled grass. Itaspberrics
were ahuiulaiit in patclies but not yi t ripe; they were fully ripe a lorlniglit since on the (^u'Appelle,
200 miles south.

Some of the small aspens near our eami> on the !)th have been nipped at the extremities of the
branches by frost when in full leal'. 'Jhe lops of many are black aiul drooping.

About four miles from Long (.'reek, and perhaps ten from thf Sonlh Uraneli, a low range of hills
running norlh-iavt and south wc'>t, are still covered with an aspen l'iire>t of the ^ one age as the
blackened [joles which stand in elmups on all sides. These poKs are from nine to nvehe inelies thick;
the young aspens are from lour to six inches in diameter. The lire was here last ye.ir. We have now
traced '.he extent of ll-.at vast conllaLrration from Ued lliver to the .South Hranch, and over liuir deu'rees
of h.litiide at least; but the llev. Ileiu'y lludil slates, tint in the aiitinmi, norili, somii, east, and west
of the Mission the country apjieared to be in a bla/e. The iimni diate banks of Loii:; Creek, with the
exception of a narrow strip iji tOe ])rairie south of the (iu'Appelle, is the (Jiily part of the eoiintrv in
which we have not recognized tiaces of last year's fire, 'i he animal exiension i>l the prairie from this
cause is very remarkable. The limits ol' the woodeil country is becomiri'^ uar by vrar less, and it
.'ijipears from the almost universal prevalenci> of small nspen woods that in lornu r times the wooiled
country extended beyond the (^u'.Vppelie, or five or six degrees of latitude sduiIi of its present limit.
It being always borne in mind that the leiin woculcd coimtiy is ap|ilied to a legion in which prairie
or gra.ssy areas |ireiloininate over the parts occupied by young aspen woods. The south limit of ll.e
wooded Ciiiintry is some distaiu'-' north of the 'I'oiiehwood Hi'! range, but there are areas north and
south of the (Ju'Appelle wliere llie 'einains of aspen forests of large dimensions exi^t, and young forests
are in rapid process ol lormniion, perhaps, howeviT, soon to be destroyed 1 y (ire.

This laineiilaiile destruction ol' the lorest is a griM' drawback to the counlry, and a .serious obstacle
to its futnri; progre.s. It appears to be beyond hninaii power to arrest the annual eonll.igrations as
long as the imiians hold so vast a prairie ngion as their hunting grounds. 'J'heir prettxls for " |)ut;ing
out (ire" are so numerous, and their eliaraeterislic iudifl'erence to the results which may follow a
conflagratimi iii driving away or destroying the wild anini.i'.s so thoroughly a part of their nature, that
the annual burning of the prairie may he looked for as a mailer of course as long as wild Indians live
in the country. .\ liri' lit on the .Sou'.li Hraneli of the .Saskatchewan may extend in a lew weeks. • .
even days, to lleil River, aeeordiiig to the season and the direc'iion and loree of the wind.

Long Creek mainlains a breadlh of six feet, (lows eiear and sluggishly through a broad nallow
depiission, where wilil hay is as alnindanl as if the whole valley were one conlinnous beavi meadow.
I he hnrrows of moles are very iiuiiieroiis; wherever the soil is very rich these little anir .Is are to be
(oiind in large numbers; they Conn exeillent indicators of the ferlilily of a .soil ; t' _. are never seen
where the soil is poor and sterile. I'onds ami lakes are very numerous: this extensive distribution of
water points to a much more Iniinid climate ilian i" in the coinilry south of the (^u'Appelle.

August 11th. — .Still the same ey. ellent soil. The burrows of tiixes e.nd badgers have twice shown a
light gravelly substratum on low ridges, otherwise the black mould is everywhere ilistribuled. A chain
ol lakes, lying westerly from our conrsi', give rise to Long Creek. The Lakes are from 200 yarils to a
third of a mile broad, and form a coiiliniious series connected by a small rivulet for a distance of leu
miles. A hill range, called the Itirch Hills, whose western (lanks we have turned, is said by Indians to
extend to the rear of I'orl I'elly. A vast profusion of (lowers gives remarkable beauty to the large
o|)en areas. They generally occur in parterres of several acres in extent occupied by one sjiecies, here
the yarrow, there the lire weed, then a held of a species of helianthus, followed _by Liatris sniriii.su.
VV'heii viewed from an eminence, the country a|>peared to be clothed with pink, white, yellow, and blue,
in singular contrast to the uniforni tint which prevails on the great prairies of the Little Sonris.

( hir course yesterday continued up the valley of Long Creek, which taken as a whole, olfers bv far
the most attractive ((■alines liir settlement of any part of the country through which we have pas.sed
since leaving Prairie Portage. To-day we (i)llow ihe windings of a shallo.v brook which runs into ihov
Soiilli Ihaiich. It meanders through a fine broad rich valley, with hills on its .south-eastern side genlly
slojiing towards it, and covered with the de.id Etanding trunks of burnt aspen. The soil of this valley
is good, dillering in no re.spcct from that of Long Creek. The (lowers are equally numerous and
showy, consisting of the same varieties, and distributed in large patches occupied by a single s|)ecics.

We passed to-day near the source of a river which (lows into the main Saskatchewan at the Pas,
about MO miles distant from us. It is called Carrot Hiver or Root River, and, rising within twelve
miles of the .South Ihaneh, it drains an extensive urea of wooded country, passing also in its course
through nunu runs lakes. Thi; ii.,c of Root River within ten or twelve miles of the South Uraneh slimvs
that llie height of land between the two water-sheds maintains the same distance as on the Qu'Appelle,
and at the North Fork of that valley near the Moose WumU. lielbrc lis, about four milei> distant, is

SASKATCIIKWAN EXPl.OIlINr. EXPEDITION.

lliL" Liini)H' lliil oftlie Woods, and tliu niiiKC of hills on lliu nortli slilu of wliicli Hoot llivci' llows
liccoiiit's hi'tlrr dcvi^lopnl. 'I'liP Iiircli Hills Conn llic dividinjr ridfju hctwiiMi tliu uiilcr wliicli ilows
into lliu Miiiii Saskiuclicwjni and liiu Assiniboinc, or lied Deer iiiul Swim Wivoi'.

The vallev l.'iuhiif; to tho Lumpy iliil :il the Woods is rich in alluvial meadows, ponds, and lakes.
A view (Voni tiie Lumpy Hill, which I ascended this eveniiif;, is very extensive, 'lliu altiliido of this
eminence is nhout 'KHI feet ahove the ■jeneiid li'vel of the coiintiy. From its sninmit an iindiiliitin^
open country, dotted with lakes and (lanked hy the Uircli Hills, is visible towaiiis the e.isi. .Soiilh aiul
south-west is a lake rc.uion, also noith and norlh-casl. 'I licse lakes are niinierous ami larj^e, often three
miles loiijr and two broad. .Seventeen lai-fje lakes can he counted from the Lumpy Hill ;, hill ranges
in several direclioiis can iilso bo <liscerned. 'I'lie most important of these are the Hloody Hills, the
Woody Hills, far in the prairie west of the iioiitli Branch, inul the ciiain of liirch HilLs riinnin;^ from
tlie Lunipv Hill easteily. The view extends to the borders of the wooded land; beyond is a treeless
prairie. The so called wooded land now consists of widely separated groves of small aspens, with
willows in the low placet.. I'ornuMly, the Cree Indian guide we look from the Lake of (he JSand Hills
stales the woods e.Mended in one unbroken range to the borders of the prairie, which may be S.") miles
.south-east of the Lumpy Hill, the .Moosir \\'oods coming between the prairie and the .South liraiicli
to the west.

Much of the soil on ;lie simtli and eii«t of the Lumpy Hill is sandy and poor; in fact we have reached
the limit ol the good laiiil, and are abniit to enter ii comparatively sterile country. Low liills and long
ridges riuming norlli-.a^t by east, and south-west by soulli, diversily the general level character of the
plains, as seen from the Liiiiipy Hill. This eminence consists jif diilt saii<l and clay, with boulders on
its summit; the western siilo is very sleep, and partially covered wiili a binnl tliresl of birch. Itajp-
lierries of very large si/e aboiiiul on the west side, but the mosipiiloe-. start iVoin the bii-.hes in such
countless niyiiads. thai it is m .\t M impossible to linger live miniitis lo pick the delicious fruit. I
olfereil the ('ree (jnide a piece of tobacco I'or a tin CU|) full of ras|)bernes: he tried lo win it, but after
a short strugule with these terrible insects, he rushed from the hill side and buried his face in the smoke
of the fire we iiad lit to expil the tormentors from the neighbourhood of our camp; the lioises became
(piite frantic under the allacks of their tormelilor.s, holiling their laads over the smoke, and crowding
legether in a vain endeavour lo avoid the clouds of insatiable insects which surromuled us. J{olh man
and heas' passed a miserable, restless, and sleepless night.

August I'Jili — 'ilii: early part of this morning was spent on the summit of the Lumpy Hill. .\
strong bree/e drove the mosijiiiloes away, niid permined me to enjoy a (piiel view of the country, which
lay mapped about lltO leet below. After breakfast, the trail passed nearly due east, over a series of
hills and through inlervening valleys, constituting a height ol land. This range may be from ihirtein
lo fil'tieii miles from the .Soulli liranch. It is a conlinnation of the Kvebrow Hill range on the
(x'u'.\ppelle, before describeil, and it C(aitinues on under the name of the liirch Hill, liiiiiting the valley
of the North .Saskalehewaii, as far as the rear of I'ort Pelly. As soon as we passeil the crest of this
range, and entered the small aspen prairie east of the hills, a valley ihroiigb the raiigi^ became apparent
to our right. I'roiu lakis in this shallow depression water passes to the South liranch and to the North
liraiich, by a tributary <H I'arrnt liiver, during spring freshets.

(irasshoppers weii^ seen lo day, flying lo the north-east. These are the first that have been noticed
since having the Mission on the (^u'.Appelle. The vegetation sliil eoiitinia's hi.xuriant; lakes an:
numerous, .iml (lowers aliiiiidant. Aspens cluster here and there, and the country presents many
altraclive liatures. Wild-lowl ;Me found on all the lakes : cram .s, both ..le brown and white; waders
of many species, and a few prairie hens. As we approach the great prairie, the country lieconus more
niidulating, and the soil light-coloured and poor. The aspens, ■.vliieli cap some of the bills, are still
large, although uiaii\ are notiiing more than dead trunks. The wooded country through which we arc
passing is only so called in remembrance of former lor<st growth. It the devastating liies continue for
a few more year.s, it will Income a treeless prairie to the Lninpy Hill; and the aspen and liirch woods
\ull then be limited to the country between that eminjnce and the iXerlb and South liranch of the
Saskatchewan. \ young brood of grasshoppers have been sieit to-ilay, showing ihal these destidyeis
reached this (larl of ihe country last autumn.

At noon on the 13th. w.' arrivid at llie liig Hill, a point of some interest, fur south ami south-east
of it, a boundless, undulating prairie lies behire us; the summit of the liig Hill is covered with huge
granite or glieissoid and limestone boulders, indeed on all the hills which surround the liig Hill
boulders are very numeroiis. 'I'jie limit of the so-called " Wooded Country " is about seventy miles
from the North liranch in an air line, and thirty miles from the .Suith liranch.

August ir)tli. — In journeying from the Lumpy Hill we crossed three belts of wiiods before arriving
at the great prairie wi".t of the Tciiielnvoiid Hills. These bells, which consist of groves of small aspen,
following a low gravelK i idge about a mile broad, and having .1 norlh-east and south-west direelion, are
separalo) by ]irairie valleys, which sustain in their lottest parts a good soil and line pasturage. Kach
belt dimu.i hed lo h point some ten or (ilicen miles soiith-west of our track. We can .see the points of
till I bills liom the summit of mounds not more thin lil'ty feet high; beyond lliein is a treeless prairie,
«tn leliing away lo the inmlh llianeli nortb-eastwuril. The bells of woods beioine bioader in a nortl.-
easti'rly direction until they merge into the wooded touiitry belween the liirch Ililis and the Saskat-
ehewiin. Till le are many delightful spi Is in the bells; the herbage is clean as a well shaven lawn, the
chimpH of iispcii are neatly loumled «.s if by ar' miuI "here little lakes alive with waterfowl abound, ihe
nci'iiery Ih ver_> dinrming, and appears to "be artificial, the result of taste and skill, rather than the
naliiral fealnii'- ol a wild, aliuosi miii 1 ihiied eoiinlrv.

Li llie prnlrie valleys the ponds are fringed with boulders, and water-marks show that during the
s|iriiig II hirxu Hltil Ik flooded. Tlie great extent of pond ami marsh alfords food and shelter to vast
numbers of U(|iiiilli> lilrtU, (irry geese were seen liere for the first time; iho Canada goose is very

K ;?

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

iibnndaiit; niul iluck, ten], crnncs, niid bittern, are niinieroiis. Tlu Inkes and marshes nil contain salt
or l)racl<i.>-li wnlor, wliicli we found to our disconifiirt was not su tabic for culinary purposes, or for
sliikiiii; lliir.-t. Toa made from it had a nauseous taste, and jiosscs^^'d the medicinal eflcct which miftht
be suppo-i'd to result from preparing that beverage with a weak suliition of Kpsom Halts. 'The Touch-
wood Hills seen from the treeless ]irairie presejit a bohl outline srcntly risiiij; from the flat country, and
maiiiliiinin!! a comse nearly due east and west for ten or twelve miles, they then assume a more easterly
diieeliou; wtslward they are seen to die uwav in the prairie.

Ill the alteniooii we bejian the ascent of a irently rolliiif; s,ope at the foot of the Touchwood Hills;
patches of willow appear here friiii,'ii)j; small areas of jiood paslura<{e. At (i )). m. we reached the
sniiimit plateiiii, ami liien passed throu};h a very heautitui iiiululatiii!; eoniitry diversided with many
pictuii'scpie lakes and aspen irrovc, posscssin<; land of tlij best (pnlity, and covered with the most
luxuriant heibaiie. From the west side of the summit plateim the (^uill l^iikes are seen lo the muth-
west : ihe-e bodies ol' wati r have lonr been celebrated for the LM-ye numbers of ffoose quills which were
oceaslonally collecli'd there by Indians, and brouf;ht to the fort for exportation. There is no timber
visible on the west side of the ranije with the exception of small a-'jieii and burnt willow bushes. All
the wild (lowers so nururous and beantilul in the valley of Lonj; Creek are met with on the summit
plateau of the Touchwood Hills, of even larfjer <;rowlh and ill ^.jiealer profusion. Little prairie
openiiifis friiijied with aspeii occur here and there, through which the trail passes; we then come
siiddeiiiy on lo the banks of a romantic lakelet, in which ducks with their young broods are .swimming,
and (locks of while cranes start from their secluded haunts at so unexpecled an inlrusion. The breadth
of this heaiilifiil pinleau is about four miles, its level above the .""ialt Prairie to the west may be about
tivo hundred feet. Our coursi' lay diagonally across it, so that we had lo pa-^s through seven miles of
this (Uliirhiful eouiilry. The Heart Mill, wilh olhers not seen before, come into view as we approach
ihe easlirn limit and begin a de-ceiit lo Touchwood Hill l-'orl. The Last Mounlaiii is visil)le in the
west, bill blue in ihe distance: the little I'oueliwood Hills lie ludu'e lis, ;he trail lo l''(at Hllice
sireleliing towards iheir lasierii (hoik. The comilry belweiii ihe two ranges is dolled wilh lakes and
groves ot aspen. From a sm;ill liill near the fori I CDimled forly-sevrn lakes.

'l"oiieluviKid Hill Fort. KJlli AnL;usr. — .\rrived at ilie Fori after sunsit last evening. It is situated
on the south-(a«t (lank of the range, and from a hill close behind it an extensive view of ihe country is
olitaini'd. Hiarl Hill or Kii-nu-ld-iit-tiii-iilt is about seven hundred feel above the general level ol the
plain, and .seven miles in an air line N. 12" \V. of llie post. The general direction of the range is N.
■Jli' v.. It app<ars to consist of a series of Drift Hills, many of which rise in rounded dome-shajH'd
forms iVoni ihe siimmil plateau. Tlie Last Mountain bears S. 'iO \V., about 2.'i miles dislaiit from the
post, and the end of l.on;r Lake, as it w^is poiiiU'd out lo me by the guide, bears U. ;J7 S., distant
iioni lh<- fori a uood d.iy's jciiiniey, <a- ahiail ;!0 miles. 'I'hi' Little Touchwood Hills bear south-east,
and have a geiaral direelioii parallel lo the main range. At the loot of llie I lean Hill and on its
noiiherii (lank is a lake about live miles Ion;;, running east and west close to its fool, and is said lo
contain white (ish. Devil's I ake, whieli is eonneeled wilh Lust Mountain Lake, lies about K) miles
due West of ihi' posl.

'The garden or rather the leiiiaiiis of a garden in the rear of the fori, produces every variety of
veijetable grown in Canada, bul tlu' ell'oi Is to cultivale it are almost abandoned in conse(|iienee of the
depri'dalious eommilled by the Indians from die prairies, when they arrive in autninn wilh their
supplies of provisions, 'bnlfalo meat and pemican), A lew of the lakes near the fort are known to
conlain (ish, and it is jirobahle thai all of the large fresh water lakes conlnin them. 'The oliicer in
temporarv charge of the post stated that the people here had only known of the existencti of wl.iti-Iish
in the Last Miainlain Lake (iir three years; they are now taken in the fall, and it is probable that the
fisherv recently established will become of great im|H)rtauce to this part of the country. The I'laiii
Crees are not lishtrmen like the Ojibways; they did not kiKnv how lo catch fish wlmn the attention of
people at tin' 'Touchwood Hill Fort was first directed lo the treasures of Last Mountain Lake. Mr.
Hoovi r, the oliicer in charge at the time o'' my visit, told me tlait he had first observed the white-nsh
iinili r ihe ice in November of Ik.') I, ai.d since that periixl they have established a (islierv which
provides ihe fort with an ample supply (iir wini 'r consnmplion

'llie timber on the Touchwood Hills is nearly all small and of recent growth; fires years ago
deslrovei! the valuable forest of aspen which once covered il. 'The remains of the (oiest me slill seen
ill the t'orins of blackened poles either standing erect or lying hidden in the rich covering ol herbage
which is (ouihI everywhere on the south-west (lank of the range. Last year the grasshoppers visited the
'Toiiehwooil Hills .Old deposited their engs. This year the new brood consiniied every gre<ii leaf in the
garden, mid make local ravages in die surrounding country. 'They took llieir fiight on llie 28tli .Inly
for ihe soiitli-east, and <hirin<; the period of my visit jiut lew were to lie seni. So rich and abundant
is the vegclalioii here, that horse? remain in the open glades all the winter, and always find pleinv of
forage lo keep them in good condition. The cows are supplied wilh hay; the horses are worked during
the winter, either journeying lo Fort I'l lly or lo the Last .Mountain Lake lo fetch fish. 'The white-
fish weigh on an average 7 lbs., but 10 Ihs. each is not uncommon. ISulTalo congregate in the beautiful
prairie south of the (brt every winter, sometimes in vast numbers,

!^- ing die greater part of the night we were disturbed by a noted conjuror who was |)erli)iiiiing his
eereinonii'S over the sulfering form of an invalided woman who lay in his medicine tent near to the
hirt. His drum and song were heard nearly the whole of the night, and his incuntnlions are described
in anolhcr chapter as well as the remedy for the sickness of the poor squaw, which the conjuror suggesteil
as iiiliillible.

August 17lli. — Snow falls on the Touchwood Hills to the depth of two feet and a half in the woods,
and in the plain where aspen groves are iiiimeidiis it is not unfieiiiieiilly loiiiid one foot and a hall
deep. In tlie great prairie south, where the herbage is short, the snow is drifted oft' by winds ; the

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

climate of the Touchwootl Hill is eviiloiitly very liiniiiil. Tliiintler storms nppear to travel in the
(liri'clion of this range ami occasion u copious precipitation as they pass over it. Not only a>e lakes
very lunnerons and well sU|iplie(l with water, but there arc several liviiijf streams floiviiif^ from the
ran<'e. Indeed the whole coinitry Iroin the Touchwood Hills to the Kiding IMoiiiitaiii, including the
country abont the head waters of the Assiimiboine is dotted with innumerable lakes, annually replenished
by summer rain».

A range of bills joins the Greiiter and Lesser 'I'ouchwood Hills, having a course nearly north-west
and south-east, or at right angles to those of the main ranges. In this subordinate range there are
iiiaiiv conical hills, some of them well wooded np to their summits, but the forest trees are small. The
trail to Fort Kllice winds round the base of conical hills, past small lakes and aspen blulfs, through
hixuiiant herbni;e, and over an excelfenl soil. About nine miles from the I'ort it begins to ascend the
eastern (lank of ihe I.iltle Touchwood range, and gently winding up it for several miles it finally reaches
an exten-ive rnnr^h which occupies a portion of the sunnnit plateau. The nKUsh is but the intro-
duction to luiinerous lakes, which continue to diversify the coniury in all <liiections.

On the following day, we enlered a region ditl'ering in luany points from the rich tract we had left,
liravelly hills and areas of coarse drift sand form the surface of the country for a few miles ; they are
sncceedeil by a number of curious depressions or liollows, circular or oval in form, and varying from
one (luarter to one mih' in diaiuiter, often with a lake in the centre, but without visible outlet. The
land is high in which ihev occur, and forms a ridge running nearly norih-west aiul south-east, like the
general direction of the hill ranges bctiuv ilescribed, but the comili" is .so undulating that it is ditticult
to ascertain the true charncler of the surface uiuil we arrive at the summit ])laleau. Here boulders are
seen; the sand is coarse and mixed with a little clay, so as to resemble a coaise gravelly loam, on the
ridges and hills, as well as on their flanks, but in the hollows and valleys the soil is excellent ami the
herbage very luxuriant.

August lOth. — The view this uu)rning from the summit of a luound revealed a rolling treeless prairie
stretching on .ill sides and l)ounded oldy by the horizon. 'I'lie wodded range of Pheasant Mountain
appears lnw in the south-west, serving only to ilestroy the uniformity of the i;c iieral outline. Numerous
lakes, ponds and marshes are visible in every direction, covered with wild fowl. The soil in low places
is good, supporting long grass which alforded line pasturage tor our cattle. The ridges and mounds
are gravelly, and a few boulder-- of the mifossiliferoiis rocks are seen here and there. It is remarkable
that east of the Touchwood Hills no limestone boulders have been iioticetl, but limestone gravel is
common.

The Pheasant Mountain runs north-east .ind south west, and may h" tiventy miles lon^. The wet
grass reminds me that tla.- de'.^ in the Toneluvood Hills are very heavy and aliuiulant at this .season of
the year. Last night, d-v. was depusited a few ininiitcs alter the setting of tin- sun, althoiinh the sky
was cloudy and prevenlul direct radiation. This phenomenon has been noticed several times; the
setting ol the sun appears to admit of ihe cooliii'.^ of the air MiHieieiillv to allow the (.ew point to be
quickly Jittained on tin- surface of vegetabli -, notwilhstanding the screen of clouds which must necessarily
ob-truct radiation into space, but it would aNo appear to >how that the temperature of the clouds must
lie very low. \^'ith the thermouK tir at (!.")' in the air, ten minutes after sunset, ami luider a cloudy
sky, I have observed dew form three times since leaving Fort a la C'oriie. On char nights, dew lia.i
always been copiously depositi'd during the summer ; so much so at times us to wet the ti'lits. This
fact shows not only a certain humidity in the air. but the si'dilen reduction of the temjieratiire when the
sun --inks below the hori/on.

Oil the morning of the tidth, hear frost on the IScilValo robes reminded us that the si a>on was
advancing. We cros-.ed to-day a rapid stream with a swilt currciit, I'.ii feet broad, undone and a half
deep. Mowing into the (^u'Appelh'. It wa-; thought to be Cut Vriu I'reek ; it meanders throunh .1
prairie covered with low willows, and mimed the Willow Piairi: ; :t enibrice-i an extensive area of
excellent lanil, sustaining tine pasturage, Limestime bouiilers wer ' ii agi'.in to-day. The country
preserves a iniilorni K-vil character, with a few gravelly lalges and imunds; neillur lakes nin- marshes
are luimeroiis. and limber liu' fuel is very .scarce. Little Cut Arm Creek, w!iiili we crosvid this
niorning, llow.s ii a ravine about HO feet deep and KtO broad. Lakes begin to ajipear again. The
prairii's .ire mine rolling and are cros-ed by ridge--, which prewrve a certain atiiounl of parallelism,
generally from north-east to south-west. The aspen rephn-is the willow in small clumps, and after
passing Dig Cut .\rm Creek, the country \> undulating. 8.;:u Mve, and very well watered. Large hills
appear near the Ihg Cut .\rni. which flows in a valley I, "21)0 U-ct broad, and IHK feet liiep, resembling
that of the Qii'Appille, from wnieb we are not now far- distant. We camped in the evening near to
Spy Hill, called .ilso Kii-ii<l-l,iim-ii-iiii, or 'Some one knocked.'

Augu.-.t :2:^nd. The lllue Hills across the .Vssinniboine ,ire visible Iroin Spy Hill, so also are thoscon
the Qu'.VpiM'lle. .'spy Hill is a gravelly eminence about I'i'l feet above the prairie. Near it boulders
of th, unfossilili-rous rocks are very numerous, and of l.iii,'e dimensions. t)ne of gneiss, ineasined
13 feet in diameter. Our old hunter remarked that the aspen groves were much more numerous west
of Spy Hill at the present time, than when he llist remembered the cminuy forty-thn e years ago.
Alter crossing a sandy prairie flanked on our left by numenais hare .sand hills, -.ve reached the Assinni-
boine at the mouth of the Qu'Appelle early in the alieruoon, and having crossed that river in prerereiiee
to the (iu'Ajipelle. we had the pleiusure on the following day oi meeting Mr. l)ickinsoii witiiin .i mile
of the Kerry, on his way to Fort Kllice, our |)lace of reiide/vous. The distance from I'ort a la Cornu
to Fort Fllice by the route we followed is li,.ee bundled and thirty-six miles.

W e spent two days in the valley of t!ie .\ss:iiiiiboine near Fort Fllice, occupying ourselves in making a
section of the valley. We found its ouaitth to be one mile and thirty chains, and its depth two hundred
and forty feet below the level of the prairie on either band. The river is laie hundred and thirty-live
feet broad, with a greatest depth of 1 1.9 feet, a mean depth of 8 Icet, and a current flowing at the nitu
of uiiu mile and ilu'ee-quurters per hour.

K 4

REPORTS OF THK ASSINNIROINE AND

I ''

On tlif- 'M\\\ we 't'l out on ov.- retnin (i) llic »«etll«'nt«Mii-. Our route lay on tlic flanks of tlie Dirck
and lliti. u Monnliiins, and "kiiu<;Ii a counlrw admirably iKtapit'ci (or riimuinj; purposes. On the
nu>niin;i >l tlie 27lJi, tlu' IhtL ■».■ was cuvcrcd willi hoar frost, hut wiiliojt any injmy to vegetation.
J'oiids ami \u\nt art n'ry luiuierous on the ttanks of llie Kidin:; iMount»in, but as far as our oppor-
lunitios ( ij;ibltd us to j.ultre. thi ■Iiolc eowutry, wiUi tlif •\rt|Kion ol narrow ridges, possesses a rich
black lirtilc mi niUl, su|>f>vrtMii{ very hi\uriai»t lierbap^^ :ui(l o«i the niounlaiu am ample supply of timber,
consistlnir eliietlv ofasjieii ol larije dimension!!. The Kiiliui; Mouutaiii coosisiv if a succession of slopes
aiul plateaux on Us siiuth-westirn sirle; tlie a«ceiit is almost impeixeptible ti' ■iic thick inipenetraiile
fiirest wliieli covers tlic hiijhe^t plaliao

On Saturdav. 'iSili Aiifjiist, wi- an- ved at tne 'kittle asuKkatdJuiwan or Uapitl River, whi' h
Mr. Dickinson had explored li>i' a distiuice of one luuKlred uiii<-« (roit» its source. Tlic valier ef this
river is cxlremi'lv be.init I'ld and lerlilc uiilil within a few mil«>H o^ its |Ui«'tioii with llie .•Xssiiwi.Uoine; it
offers the most atuai livr' and iU.':iial)K' plM'i' lor settlement in ";f ,:;u'i of the country we (lave exf>lor«.'d.
'J'he stream abounds in (ish ; tin' Hats ai tie valley arc overetd wtlli the richest hcrlm;;t' : imilit-r,
consistiiiij of aspen, pophi!, and oik, i» idmindunt ; the prairies on tithcr side are clothed with the
j»rt'atesl luxuriance of vei;etati»»n ; the scenery is very attractive, ;uiid the river navigable «Iohiu stream
for canoes and batteaux lo Uie Asstniiiboiue. Where the llapid River enteis the Uidiu!; .M.(»unlain
balsam and white spruce appear, and <inr explorations on the east tlaiik of the ian;;e showed thai lar ;e
birch, spruce, poplar, and aspen tleiu'islied on the suininit plateau.

Tires here as elsewht re h.;ve daui:e.'e<l the forest which once ci/verei! the coiiiilr\. \'asi mnnbers
of youii<{ oak and aspen ai< sprinijinj; up in all dliivclioiis ou die prairie frire^inj; the liver near
onr trail. Birds are miv iinnieroiis in this region; cveiy laki' contained duck, with dieir yoiiie,'.
'I'he aspen jjroves and willow clamps were alive witih grackle and yellow birds con^reiiaiiim in
flocks. Iliimminsj-birds were also observed, as welH as the Aniciiraii cuckoo and the solitary
thrush. Ill the marshes, hi-rons, cranes, and bitte.ns are iiuuieroiis. liojr-frost a'.'ain noticed cai'ly
tlii-^ moriiin:;.

1ji a brook emptyiiii; into Ilapid lii>' r, I lound an exposure of the Cielaceoiis shali's before
dcscribeil as occurriiiLT on the .\>siiiiiiboiiii' and the Little .Soiiris. The rock was very frajiile, and
conl.ioied a few lossiU in an iiii|)erlecl state of presenation.

Oil the 2!>th we reached the soulh-eastern teri.Miiation of the Uidin;; Mi>iir.laiii, and oblaiiieil a fine
view of the successive steps of which it is composed. TIhsi: wrre three in imiiiber, each step beiiif;
separated by a gently slopiu;.' plateau. The entire niountiin appe.ired lo In' densely eoviied with
linesi tries. The country iIiiiuil;Ii v.liicli we passed to-day was very wet and swampy in many places
On the riddles the soil i^ dry and gravelly : we are, in lact. descending; the I'embiiia .Moiinlain, which
beiiij; bill- extended over a fjieat bieadlli, is not easily rcco<(nizcd. In the afterno .11 we arrivc'd at a
beaniifnl ridjje, runniiii; N. \'i° \\". and S. 1-2' E. One side of this riil-je is parilv excavated by the
While .Mud Kivi'r, and exhibits lliu'ly slr.ai(ii-d t,'ravel, ciiisislinir almosi altoi^ether of small limestohe
p<*bble<, with a few beloii.'iiiu; to tiie uiilov«iliferoiis rocks. The r;di{e is i;enlly sloping.' towards the
vuxt, and precipitous towards ihe wesi, — liaviii<{ on eiilier lianil a levil eoiniliy, higher on the west side
ihiMi oil the e.isl. I have no doubt this rid^e is either a ccuuimialioii of the Ki;; liidj;" on the Assiniii-
boiii* and Ilcd Uiver, or of mie at a liii;lier level in the rear of those characteristic lake b.iuiularies.
Sotiie line oak yiuws on the hanks of While Mud Kiver near the rid,i.;e ; and asli-le.ived maple
l)Ci.'iiis to sliiiw itself acain.

Auirnst :illlh. — Our course to-lay lay throiiLrh the prairies drained by \\ liite Mud River. This
tract of country is 'coiid only in beauty and fertility to the valley ol Rapid River Not only is the
herbage of surprising luxuriance, but the trees in the river bottoms arc of viM-y lar;;e dimensions, and
consist of <iak, elm. iisli, maple, as^HMi, and |)oplar. .\'(;iir the croisinj; place there i^ a (ish weir, where
larue ijuantities of pil;i , suckers, ;.old-eye-, and other speeiev, are taken by the people' of i'rairii;
I'ortafre, who have establialicd a liihinj^-station here, as well as <iiie .it l.ako Manitohah, some miles
i'urlher east.

The woods friii-iiiij; the riv<'r at the crossing; place are very imporlaiit. The oak and ilin are of the
lavirest si/.e ; ti ft. to 2 ft. () in. in di imeter, with tali, clean tlillik-. Ihe ho|) and vine twine aroiiml
Iftir underbrush, and ;^ivc a very attractive nppi'iuance to the belt of wu.ids which frin^'e Wliite Mud
Hwcr.

N\ ishiiii; to ascertain the cliaiaeicr ol this stream I<i its oulh't, we uiiinnuil thi' canoe, and once more
tMmicln'il it !'or a short voyajje down tii.' While Mud River, to tin- (ishiiii;-slatioii on Lake Maiiilohah.
Mi' Dickinson proceeded down the liver, til" carts, with Mr. liime, joiirneud on towards I'laiiii;
I'liM.inre. while I rode to the (ishiliu'-station, in .'oinpany wuh a half-hricd who was i'aiirliar with the
liislnry and projriess of the siatioii since its commencement.

We soon arrived iil Rat River, a stream of much inierest in coiniexioii with the fiiiods of the
iVssinniboine. Down its valh v the wafer of that river, duriiiij freshets, flows into Lake Manilobih,
and by inakini; a very shallow ml, a peiinaiieiil cominiinicalioii. in time of hii^h water, could always
l:c" niainlaiiied 1 he lisliinL'-.''t itioii at the inonlh of While Mini Rive consisi> of about half-a do/in
houses, which are nnly linanted diirintr llir )isliing-se isoii. \'ery l:irj{e <piaiilities of white fi-h aie
caM<;ht here, and no doubt when the demand reipiircs it the st.ition at the luouth of \Miite .Miid RiMr
will Ucome an important source of .supply. 'Ihe Assiiuiiboine piairiis extend lo the banks of
Manfli'itivah Lake, and their elevation :<s seen here ai.d at t^ak I'oint is not twelve leet above tin
irvi I af 'hat extensive but shallow sheet tA' water.

Wf camped on the Hanks of l!a« River, iipd tlie following day made a nearly due south coui-t'
tlinxf^ii a rich but treelos piaiiie to lli/. I'riiirie I'ort.ige on the .\ssinniboine. In making this liaverse
We passed the shallow, windin^r, but dry bed ol' a brook several times, a Iribiitary of I'ortage River.
In wil seasons this bed is c cciip; (I with drainage water fioin th' Had Woods, while Rat Riv<r rises
within three mills of the A.>siiiniboiue in the ...ame locality. Tiic valley of Rat River and ul the dry

SASKATCHEWAN KXPLORING EXPEDITION.

water-course iimv yet becomo of vast importance if i slioiiUl ever liappcn lliiit the commercial inihice-
ments for effecting a steam conimuiiiciiiion with tiie soutii branch, by way of the Qu'Appeilc Valley,
ilioiilil lead to the construction of works for that purposf.

On the Ut of September we arrived nt I'rairie Portage, and reached the setHenit.i.^s nt Red River on
tiic 4tli of September, after an absence of nearly three months. Our course from Prairie Portage lay
tliroiigh the prairies which were described in my report for 1837.

CHAPTER VII.

FROM FOHT

A L.\ CORNE TO THE GRAND RAI'ID OF THE SASKATCHEWAN FnO.M TIIE GRAND RAPIT TO

THE RED RIVER SETli.EMEN'i S Vui THE WEST COAST .;1' LAKE WINNJI'EO.

I he

ImIi,

\v;iys

i/MI

IIIC

iixi r

- ..I
llu

Instruction! Equipment — Departure from Fort i la Corne — General direction, current, onii breadth of the

Ssukatchcwan, and charncter of its Valley — Country through which the river flows well ailaptetl lor settle-
ment — Sickntss and discomlorta — Ucath Peniican Portage and Cumberland House — Description of Cum-
berland— The Saskatchewan and surrounding country between Cumberland and thu I'as — The Pas —
Christ Church — Gradual depression of the country bordering the river — Alluvial Huts — Marshes — Delta —
Muddy Lake — Hock exposure — Miirsiies and mud fl;its — Cedar Luke ; its situation and dimensions —
Surrounding country — The Saskatchewan between Cedar Lake and Luke Winnipeg — Cross Luke Rapid :
its dimensions — Enter Cross Lake — Meet a Brigade of Honts — Cross Luke : its dimensions and altitude —
Surrounding country — The Saskatchewan cast I'f Cress Lake — Kapids : their (hmensions — Smooth IJeach

Drill Clay Hanks— The (irand liapid : Portage ; Running the Uapid ; its dimensions; character of its

excavated bed; magnificence of the upper portion of tlie cataract; mode of ascending it; remarks in rela-
tion to surmounting this l)arrier and niuking the Saskatchewan .nvailable t'or steam navigation — Indian
Encampment — Lake Winnipeg — Capi: Kitchini shi — Stornjs — Detained on an islanil — Windhunnd nn muin-
liind— Tempest — Repulsed l)y the wiml — ("ji.uacter of the coast: the sand he;iel;cs and svranips — War
I'ath River — Verifying rate of canoe — Tracking — Liui.'stonc Point — Enc lunterini^ a head wind uiul storm

Lightening canne — Siaiving Indians — I'lic Little Sa.»katcliewnn — Recapitulation — The prominent features

of the coast — I'ornniion of Cape Kilchinashi — Limestone exposures — Tributary streams — General eliarac-
fer of the country — buliiin Chart — Inaccuracy of tlie Maps of the Lake — Depart from the L'ttle Saskatche-
wan Wjiulbound again for tlireodays — Provisions exhausted — Contrary Winds — Driven buck anil stopped

Thu Cut Head — \Vindbouiul ngiiin by a hurricane — Harrier of boulders — Ivagle — Stopped hy tool winiU

again at the Wicked I'liint — I'ike Head and River— Opportune supply of pish— Wide traverse to Grind-
stone Point — Grassy Narrows — Sandy Har — Arrive at the Settlements — Conclusion.

I'oKT A i.A Corne,
Di-.AU Silt, August Oil), 1858.

YiiU will Stan ill a canoe from Ton li la Corne aiu! proceed down the Saskatchewan Kiver into
Lake Winnipeg, thence by the west coast of tliat lake to the mouth of Red River, thence to the
Settlement.

In voiir progress down the Saskatchewan yim will make as complete a survey of the river as
circumstances will permit, ascertaining its course, late of current, volume of water, fall, anil extent and
nature cf the obstacles to iiiivigiition. It is desiial)le from liine to lime to make sections o! the river
and its valley, to level the rapids with precision, ;iscertiiin the height to which tlie water rises and llio
extent to which it falls in the course of a year.

'i'lie west coast ol Luke Winnipeg should be uttentivi ly examined, and specimens of all rock
exposures collected.

I'be object of this exploration is to oljtain inlormalion respecting the main Snskntcbcwan, similar to
that which has bei n accpiireil during lliu recent exploration of the South llranch from *• the River
that tuLiis" to the Grand Forks.

I am, &c.

John I'leming, r..sq.. Assistant Surveyor. (.Signed) HENRY V. HIND.

Mu. Tleming's Narrative.
Ueak Sill,

In eoinpliance with your leipiest, I shall endeavour to describe the more prominent topo-
graphical features and the general character of the country which came under my observation, while
in control of the branch expedition with which you were pleased to entrust me; giving some of the
results of the exploratory survey of the Saskatchewan and Lake Winnipeg, condnctcd according to
your iiistructiiuis dated Fort :i la Corne, .\ugust l)th, 1S6S; and such additional iid'orinntion us I was
eoal)led to olitaiii by inslrunieiUal operations and otherwise. In reporting my progress Irom the time
we separated at Tort ii la Corne on the Dili of August, until we again met at Selkirk Settlement on
the Kith of September 18ii8, I shall avail myself of copious extiacis from notes daily recorded on the
journey.

Yon .ire aware that the equipment available for the service to be perforinetl was that with which we-
surveyed and explored the south brcich of the Saskatchewan ; consisting of a tliree falhom birch bark
canoe, manned by two voyageurs (Wigwam, an Ojibway, ami dames Louis, a Black-foot Half-breed,)
and proviiled with 'lie necessary instruments for the track survey and i'or nuiking the requisite observa-
tions at interval.'. Wigwam continued to act us bowsinan, and Louis as steersnmn ; both were expert
caiioeincii, and proved themselves eminently trustworthy throughout, and reliable in time of difficulty
and danger. 'I'be cnnoe being le;iky, owing to injuies it had sustained in crossing the plains from
Red llivcr to the elbow of the south branch, was the source of much trouble until we reached Cum-
berlaml House, wlieie, ilirougli the aid of the letters with which you provided me, and the courtesy of
the gentleinaii in ch.irg^, 1 was enabled lo procure a new canoe and some other necessaries.

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

I* !

Heforo inoct't'iliiig on our journey, and comnicMcin^ tlio continuation of thu survey of the
Saskatclii'wiiM, we wcro occnpiiil soiue time near Fort iV In Cornc in niakin;; a transverse erotion of
tlif rivor, astortaininsr lis fill by levelling, anil measuriu<T its rate of current by the loju; (adnptiiif; the
mnuii of a .'crie^ of obst.'vations';; so that it was at a late hour when we made our departure, and wo
did not acconiplisii more lliaii '2:i miles the lirst day.

The i^eueral direetion ol the Saskatchewan from Fort i\ In Come towards Cumberland House it
uortii-easterly, as will lie oljserved on leferrini.; to the plans which have been protracted from my field
notes. 'I'hc ciu'rent continues stronj^ for a considerable distance below Foit a la Come, where the
.iveraijc rate was limiid to be three miles an hour. In some place* the mean vi'locity of the current
exceeds this, n.« I aseertiiined by re|)eated trials : and nt the points a small rapid is fref(uently seen,
generally eausi'd by a subnK'ryed spit or reef of boulders anil gravel protruding into the river; but
the water is oidy agitated in its passage over these shoals, which are always on one side of the river ;
in the bays opposite the points it is (piite smooth and deep, averaging in the channel 19 feet.

At Fort a la Curne the breadth of the .Sas^'iatchewan (which I obtained by trigonometrical
measurement) is !)(>5 feet, and its immediate lianks are high ; the sides of the valley, which are much
liiuhor, bring no eieat di.'itance from the river. The breadth of the river continues very uniform,
but its iinniodiale lianks beeoiiie gradiially lower, the hill sides of the valley at the same lime
diverging, .\lxmt "JO miles below Fort ;'i la Coriie the banks of the river are low, and the general
eharaetir of the .iiliaceMl country considerably changed. The high difl's before scon nt th'c great
bends of the rivir give place to rich a"Mvial flats, supporting u forest of fair sized balsam-spruce and
popl.ir, and the valley becomes so broad that the high banks are nowhere observed.

I he siconil (lay of our journey, .\iigust 10th, we embarked at (i a.m., and passc<l during the day
the " liig Hlrch Island-." and many others; they arc all alluvial deposits and some of them aro
overlloued in -pring. The lianks of the river are now (juite low, and the ountry on either side is
very ll.Tt ; but il still conli[nii's well adapted for agricidtural purposes nnd .settlement; the soil being
aril ;!;ii al loam of a considerable (l<|>th, well watered and drained by many line creek,-, and
clottiii! v.ith abnnilance of timber for liiel, fencing, and building. In some places stony points
projiftiiig into ilie river eiinlract it to a width of live in' sis chains; stretching out I'rom these pointii
the hoals over which, as belorc observed, the current is very strong jind rough. Among the

i«l:. e river attains a width ol from 'J.'i to ;Jl» t hain.s, bm where il is broad its dei)lh is diiiiii)i?hed

m uuii._\ places by nnul llat.s. We stopped lu cam]) for the night about hall-past li p.m., iieaiiy
■ ■^^ mil. from where we -tarled in the morning.

i( J,., . llih — Wi' left our list iiiyht s resting place at day-break this morning, and pa.sscd through
..1 c.\'- 'lent tract ol' cunntry ail day; the soil on Imth sides of the river consistini; of .i very rich
alio' :■ '"posil, II) fi et in thickness, al)nve ihe -urface of the water, well wiioilcd wiili l.irge po])lnr,
bal I nee, anil birch; some o'' the poplar; measurii).; two and a hall f et in di.micter ; anil, as

far .1 .s enabled to .isccrtain, the land contitmes good ior u great distuice on either side, but more

cspeciallv on the south side of the river. In many ;)!,ices the river i- studded wiih lar^e alluvial
island.- supporting a mo-t luxuriant growth of po]>lar nnd willows, .\mong these islands the channel
is .somctmies inlncate, being occasionally intcrnipteil by sand-bars aiul snags. \Vc encamped about
1) p.m., havm^ attained a dintance of about 47 mile-, to-diiy.

On the I'.'lli August wi- cudiarked about 1 a.m.. although I could only eomnninicnip with the men
by sii;ns, being unable to speak, owing to a very painful swelling in ll e throat with which I was seized
soon after leaving Fori a la Corne. 1 his ilisiressing miil.idy. Iron, which 1 fortunately rapidly
recoveied. w.is so bcvere that lor neatly three ilay> I could scireely ei:t or drink. It was brought
on piobnbly by exposure to the frci|Uent rains and lying in wet doihes. 'I he night of the I Ith .Vugust
was to us .1 -leepliss and most uiKoinliiriable one : a terrdic thunderstorm came on altir dark, and
having no lent to protect oursi'lvis iVuin ihe driving rain, we were drenched to the skin, and had to
lie in a pool of water all night. Our consiant tormcnlors, the mosijuiloes, were also exccssivelj-
annoying.

'1 lie L' n.ral i liiirai ter of the inunlry we passed throughmit the dav is excellent, the soil being rich,
and llie I jni>er of fair (piality. The ilipth and breadth (A' the river is variable ; in one or two places
it is impelled by mud flats and slio.ds, sumetim.'- Iioliling snags and sawyers. About noon we came
to the month of a ird^utary stream lot) fict bruad, llowing into the tiaskalchewan Iro-ii the north,
which ue suppo-ed lo lead to Cumberland House, as it corresponded to the description given to us at
the .N'epowci n, bill being de^iroii- of kee|)ing the main river, agree.ibl' to your iiistniclions, we went
on unlil leacliing an old canyiog place, called " I'eiiiicaii I'm laL;e, leading to the fort, where we
discli.irned and iiauied up the canoe. I de-Tjatchcd '.ouis lo the fort, .inil he leturned in the evening
repuiing the load very wit and inardi., Ue . o\e to-dav nearly '2!) miles, so that the distance
bctwein Foil a la Corne and Cumbeiland, v. the windings of the river, is upward.-, of I.jO miles.

Auiiiist lUlli. — Owing to the tliiikiiess ol the rushes and tlu .'dlowness of the water in many
parts of the m,ir-h hi tuiM-n I'.ie .Si-kalclie- !> and Fine Island Fake, ue had to goover lo Cuniberhind
this inorniiig in the empty canoe, pushing ,i Jinmgh the marsh until we reached a strip of dry ground,
about h.ilf a mile widi- behind the fori. .Mr. I'^ilward Medilliviay, the gentleman in charge y;r« tent.,
received lis vi rv liospiialjly. I obtained fioin him some pemican and Hour, nnd irot him to procure
liir me a new cinue, lor which I had to wail, as it was not (juite finished. In the forenoon a brigade
of boats from the McKeiizii' Kivir arrived and deiiirted en mute to York Factory. One of the boats
contained .Mr. Andeisnii. ( hief factor, who wa- going direct to lied lUver and Canada. J mention
this because, .•dihoii;!li Mi. .\iidersoii left Cumberland tliree days before us, in a boat of four or five
tons hiirlhen, "ell inaniii d and eipiipped, and infinitely better fitted for encountering the boisterous
gales of Lake Winnipeg than our little canoe, we reached the mouth of lied Uivcr only i!4 hours
after liiin.

1 I ,

!< I

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

On Saturday, tlie 14lh Auj^uat, we were nrou!(>d at daybreok by the gingiiig of tlio voyni;e\irs ol'
nnotlur brigade of bimti jimt arriviiig, It proved to bo a dotacliiiient from Yiuk Fiietory, ))riii<,'iii(;
J G. Stewart, Esq., Chief Trader, in charge of Cumberland, with Mrs. Stewart, mid Mr. Speneer.
Our cunoo was not fmislicd nil late in the aflernooti, wlieii I would liave stnrteil hiid I been supplied
with a guide for Cedar Lake and the Grand Rapid ; but the only man that wag tompelcnt and
willing to gn being one of Mr. Stewart's boatmen, and they having received their usual holiday and
allo\'a>°.cc of rum on reaching their destination, un arranr^ement could bo made with him, t was
consequently compelled to remain till Monday. During tiie day Mr. Stewart, from whom I rcceiveii
the must kind and hospitablu attention, opened some p'.eks and etmbliMl mc to gut one or ttvo articles
of clothing, of which 1 stood greatly jn need.

Sunday, August 15lh. — A heauliful day. Anotlicr brigade from ^lethy Portage came in and left
about noon lo-day; bound for York Factory under the jiilotage of the veteran guide, L'Lspdr.uice.

Cumberland iluuse, the chief dejjot or fort of the Cumberhiud DJi'trict of the Hon. lliulson's li.ny
Company, is situated on the south shore of Cumberland or Fine Island Lake ; in latitude ttiV ,'>7' M.,
and in longitude 102° -0' wct,t of (irecnwich, (c .ording to Sir John Iviehardson.) it is about two
miles in an air line north of the .Saskatchewan, on the north side of what is c.iUed " I'ine Island,' a
tract of land of considerable c.xtent between the .Saskatchewan and Pine I.sland Lake, isolated by
two branch rivers connecting the lake with the .Siskatchewan. The stream we passed be: ore
reaching S'emican Portage is the western connexion, and bears the name of liig Stone liiver ;
it i.^ about .-ix miles long by its windings, and about two chains wide. When the water of the
Saskatchewan is high, it passes tliroiigh this channel i,i canal into Pine Island Lake, and when low,
the water from the lake llowr into the Saskatehcvan. At the lime the accompanying survey was
ma<le, (Ifl August, 1S.")8,) liig Stone Uiver was flowing into the Saskatchewan, at the rate of one and
a half miles an hour. The ea.stern connexion is about the same si/e as Uig Stone Uiver and joins
the Sa>katchewan some ilistance below I'emican I'orlage ; it is called '• Tearing Ivivcr," and i.- the
route I'ollowed by the McKenzie Uiver boats. The Saskatchewan boats go by these rivers when they
require to call at Cuinbirliind.

The country around Ciunherland is low and flat ; the soil in some places is a stiff clay, but in
general it Cllnsi^t■' of a giavelly loam a 'I'l'W l(ct in thiciuiess, covering an unexposed horizontal hi'd
of white limestone, and .-uppDrting a light growth of poplar and bircli. Occasional groves of s|iru'e
(tin so-called ]/nif of Unpci I's Land, from which Pine l.sland derives its name.) are .seen hen- and
there. The land biini.; so little raided above the lake au<l river, a great <hal of it i.s submergiHl
during the .-priug Hoods, anil sonn- portions upon which the w,.tei' rtniain-i beconie marshes and
swamps; but iiiany nftlieni could be drained and improved without m.ieh ditlicully.

Thcic i^ a ( oiiiidiriible extent of ground enclosed and uiuler cultiv.ition al ( lunbi'rland. I
observeil a licld of barley, anil aiuillier ol'p<i!.iloes, both looking well, within the ton palings; and
there ii an excellint garihii ailjuining the chief f.ietur.-. hi>u--c; the soil appeared rich and I'lrlih',
bearing an e.vuhcrant growth of rhubarb, cabbaL^e, pea.", carrots and other vegetable-,

Cumberlaiul llnuse being at the jiinclion of two great lines of water conuiiunieation, one leading
liom the Pacific, and ihe utlier frxui the Arciie Sea, to the \\ inr.'.peg basin, is a place of iiuportance.
and wa- lornierly one of the t'onipany's principal depots. W'iiliin the I'lUt there are a nuinlier oi
buildings, one of them 'the ^tole-llou-e i is a very large eilirne, containing i'xten>ive niachiiiery and
ap|)liauces for pres.-iug and packing furs, and making peinican. C'lunberlaiid has lieen visited bv
several celelirali d Arctic explorers. In the garden there is a suu-dial which was brought iVoiii
Lnglaiiil and cricted by Sir .li.lin Uicliardsoii, and Sir .Inlin Iranklin remained here a porlion of tlie
winter of Icit), while on Ins llr^t overland expedition to the I'ol.ir Sea via ihe .McKen/.ie Uiver.

Augu>t Kith. — We left (umiicrland this morning in mir new ciall. a tlirce-fathoin birch l)ark
canoe. -Not being so deej) nor of the sanu' beam as the .j|d one, our load ol bagji ve. instrnnier.l-,
and provi.-ions, sank it to wiihiu a t'rw inches of the guii'^ale. rendering ii lather un>ate in a heavv
sea. I ■succeeded ingiltingan Indian iruide, through the loudness .if Mr. .'^tewart, but could not
prevail upon him to accoinpaiiy us lirllier than the (iraui' .ajiid; which nliimalely proved lortnn.ite
for us, :is had he continued willi our party, the peniica.i upon which we had now solely to depciul
till we reach Ked Uiver, would have been exhausted nun a sootu r than it was. We returned to the
Saskatchewan via liig Stone Uiver ; ,ind jiassed the nimit. of Tearing Uiver about 14 miles I i it her
down. Uetwecn the mouths of these rivers, the .Sa-kat( 'icw.mi (lows oica.sionallv amouir h'W- aliuvia!

islands, wooded with small po| ' anil willow.- : and in UK'uy places its depth i lessened by nuul-
fiais and sap l-bars : its banks are here low alluvial flats, on'y two or thrio leet above the water,
covered with grey willows and sapling poplar. The current in this part of the river is slacker than
beliue, the average rate as mea.~urevl by the lug bung two miles an hour We camped about a
quarter to seven, p.m. ; but before eauiping, made a section of the river, which gradually incrcises
in breadth and volume of water; a nundier of soundings, taken at inter\.ils acio-s the river Willi the
hand lead, showing a mean depth of 'JO leet ; and llie widih of the river al tiii* point as computed
liom observations made with the sextant being \>^0 feet. I levilled about three-ipiarters of a luili
along the bank of the river here, to ascertain its fall.

August 17th. — We embarked at four a.m., and observed no niateri:d change in the geuei.il
character of the river and adjacent country during the day. '1 lie banks if tin.- river are similar to
those already disci ibed, being low alluvial flats not exceeding two feel above the wait r. and covered
with willow and l>atehcs of bali-ani-poplar. The tract of countiy back from the river is lather low
and wet' and the Indians make poriages in one or two place.- from the river to -mall lakes north ol
it. T!.e curient is now iiiuch slacker than before, being only mie mile lo one and a b.;lf m!le=
an hour.

L 2

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Aljoiil 1:1 niiK'6 bi'low Tcurinji llivor, FUliiiift Wi'ir Creek falls into the Saskntclicwnn ; by ivliicli,
(lurliit; liigh water, bouts Boiiicliiiu's go to Ciiinberliiiid. About 14 iniKi farthor down, lit what is
cnlK'd (he Bif; Hvnd, (he fionurAl direction of (ht> Saskatubi-tvaii chiingeH from a north-eu«terly course,
wliich it haii miiinluiiicd from tiie (irimd Forks, to u south-easterly one. This [V\n Hend is the most
northerly point on the river, beiii(; very near the 54th puriillel of latitude. The Pns or Cumlxirinnd
missionnry station, where uc arrived about sunset, i'l nearly '2'2 miloi below the Bi;; Hend. About
three niileg above, or west of (lie Pas, (hi- Siutkatchcwun innkcs an abrupt semi-circular curve, (called
by the Indians "The Koniid Tuni,") cnuiiuf; eddies and whirlpoulsi, the river being at the same time
diminished in width. The depth of the river was here found to be .'):t foet, and its breadth about 10
chains. Xcnr the lloiiitd Turn, there is a wooded iid;{e, upwards of 5U feet high, about half a mile
from the nnrtli bank of the river. About three-quarters of a mile above the I'ns, Root Uiver, a long
affiiient ^Yith a width at its mouth of two chains, empties into the Saskatchewan.

The Van, or Ciuuberland Station is a missionary post of the Church of Knglanil, situatctl at the
confluence of the S^iskatchcwan and the Uu^qtiia River, a tributary about three eimins wide ut its
mouth. Cliiist Church, as will be seen in the sketch 1 made of the I'as, is a neat and rather
imposing edifice ; and it seemed like getting back to civilization again after all our wayfaring, when,
on rounding one ot (ho majestic sweeps of the river, tho pretty white church, snrrouiided by
farm-houses and tielils of waving grain, burst unexpectedly upon our view. It was on a calm
summer's evcnnig, and the 8|iire was mirrored in the gliding river and gilt by the hist rayg of tho
setting sun.

The Church is situated on the right or south bunk of the liver ; near it is the Parsonage, ,i large
and eonnnodious buililing, nccupicii by the liev. K. A. W'atkins, the present incumbent Adjoining
the Church there is a neat scliniil-housc anil several dwelling-houses; and on the oppot^ite side of the
river leounled i^even hous^es, but they eoeincd to be uninhabited and in a dilapidated condition ; the
Indiain fur ■.vhoin tliev were eieclcd disliking a settled life devoted solely to tlic pursuit of agricul-
ture; and jirct'erring tiio wandering and precarious life of a hunter in their native wilds, 'ihe river
banks at the I'as :m'.' 10 lo I- lect liii^li, ciiinpused of light eoliiured drift clay holding boulders and
pebbles of limestone, and the surfice ijod is a (lark gravelly mould well adapted for cultivatiuii ; but
the surrnnr.diiig ocniiitry is said to be low and suain|iy with marshy lakes. Darley and other crops
growing here looked well, a'ul vere just ripening. Mr. Watkins' garden also looked well, and he
kindly sujiplied us with some onions iiy make oiir pemican more palaliible.

An!.ni-t 18;!i. — ll.iv.ng to make some observ^itinns this morning, and Mr. Watkins wishing to send
soine letters witli me, we did n(>t leave the I'a- till :,'i(iut i> a.m. From the I'as the ."^askatcliewan (lows
in a norlii-easteriy directien throngli a Imi fl.ii loiintry uomled with sernb poplar and iialsnm-sprnce
for about eight miles; when again titrning '-.iddenly it resumes its sonth-eiisterly eoiir-c, forming a
great bend or eilxuv. About a mile below the mission, a bianeli, three chains wide, leaves the Sas-
katchewan, imd cutting across the iDiigMc of land emlinucd I y tijis eliiow, ail'iiiiis a navigable pas.sage
about tlnie miles siiorter than by the main river; although it is the route gener.illy followed by (lie
boats, liad 1 av.iileil myself of it I must have left a mnsiderable portion ol' tlie Saskati hewan proper
unsurveved.

.Aliont six miles I'njni where this br.'inch or canal njoins the Saskatchewan, another branch, leading
from .Moose Lake and Ilmse. falls in; Ijcloie uniting wiili the great river it separates into two
brancli's ionning a V. the di-taiue between the months being about hall' a mile. Krum the I'.is to
this [loiot the eliaraeter of the cmintry bordering the river gradually deteriorates, the banks l)ei'oniing
lower and lower, and the timber more scrubby and scanty. The alluvial Hats are in nianj places
only one to two feet above the water, and they are at some points covered with driftwood, -hotting
that tlie\ :ire lloo<le<l at eert.iin seasons.

\Vi stopped to c.iok dinner opposite the Moose Lake branch, where, by ascending a tree, I suc-
ceeded in getting a view of the surroundiiii; countiy. The bank.s are liere three '"eet above the river,
sujiiiorting a thin strip of grey willows ahnig the water's edge; and about hall a I'hain back from the
river r ure connnenei s an extensive marsh or swamp with rank reeds and rishes, intersjiersed with
ponds 'jf open w.iter and dotted with clumps or islands of balsam-spi ace and willows as fir as the eye
can reach. From Moo-e Lake Fork to w'lere we campeil, about 1(> miles further down, a slight
inijnoMinent \< observed on the iminediitc banks of the liver ; occasional groM'.s of ycniiig ash, elm,
and Hill-leaved sugir maple aie seen, but the fiats behind are generally very low, iind covered only
with willows ;uid sajiling |Miplar.

We st.iricd on Thiosdiiy, AugtiSt I!»;h. at break of day with wet baugage and blankets. A
thundei-storm with iio:ny rain came on ilm ing the night, and the ttaiit ol a lent was a;;ain severely
felt. Abinit four nicies below onr c,un[)ing place one or two branches have ihe main river and flow
to the T'ortli into a marshy expanse of wa'er, about one mile broad and two to three miles long,
eidlcd " ,Mar-|jy Lake" on the jilans returned. lU'tween Marshy Lake and Cedar Lake are seen all
the eharaiters of a gre.it alluvial delta, llie Saskatciie.van ramifies into many difU'i'eiit channels,
some of them return to the paieit stream foiining large islinds, and several flow into Muddy Lake
and other expansions of the main livcr, before finally emptying into Cedar Lake,

The country bonlerini: the Saskatchewan from Marshy LaKe towards Muddy I^ike and Cedar
Lake, consists of low nind flats not exceeding IH inches above water, supporting along the river's edge
a belt of willows, aider, dogwdod, and long rni.k grass; in the rear i) an extensive marsh with occa-
sional islands of small poplar and spruce. These flats, being so little above water, are Hooded every
spring after the ice breaks u;>, and no c;;inping place can then be found lor a considerable distanco
up the river A very rich mud is deposited during these floods, raising and extending the flats
cverv vcar.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

MudUv LuKe, near wliicli we '.vcro compelled to remain for some t'lino owiii;^ to a boisteraiin iiciid
wind, i> nppnrently a dilntntion of tlie Siukutclicwnn ill It nurtliui'ly (1ir<.'ctii<n ; it is ithout two inilcH
wide, and extends to tlie nortli for nbnut four miles. We elUctid ii Inndiiig on u point ot' llio river
four tu five feet nliovc the level of the water, wiiuru we found an t'X|iiiHiire of light colourcU limestone
in horizontid hcds nlonn the wotcr'a edge, iinil several Inrgi- deuichcd m;i8iea ndjiieent. This was the
first outcrop of rock in titit we met with on the uuiiii SiisliateJiewnii, iuiil I iiiiide u very careful search
for fossils, but, being unituccessful, had to content iiiyaelf with some !<pe>'iiiK'ns of the rock. On
examining the point it was discovered to be an iahtiiU eiglit chains hing and fniir bro»<l, witli the
river on one side, and on tlie fither a VHMt reedy marsli interspersed witli large ponds. Tliis island in
a favourite camping and fisliing-place of the Swampy Indians, there being on it a clump of good-
sidled poplar, the only timlier flt for fuel for miles around; and hero l hey hold their great councils,
dog feasts, and medicine dances. Its name in Swampy is Kaak-he-bii-jei-jiu-qna-ne-shing, signifying,
" Tying the mouth of a drum."

Between Muddy L;ike and Cedar Lake the Saskatchewan meanders through an immense marsh
with tall reeds and rushes. It is now no longer an integral stream but is divided into a miiZL* of
reticulating branches. According to our Indian guide, land is being formed here very fast; and
what is now marsh and mud flats was, within his recollection, open navigable water for a cnn-ideniblo
distance back from where tlio Saskatchewan at proiiiii deboiiclioH into Cedar Lake tlirougli its
numerous mouths. In one or two jihices we saw tlie trunks and branches of stranded trees sticking
above water, where alluvial Hate or shoals of mud and drift timber are in coui.o of rorination.

The Indians inlornied me that beyond these extensive alluvial Hats and shal'uw marshes there is
not to iheir knowledge anything but " muskeg " or bo^jgy swamps fur a very great distance on cither
side. 1 could see no high ground of any kind, and the character of the coiiniiy bordering the
Saskatchewan as above docribed may be aaid to coiitiniie back fi«m the river for many miles.

Cedar Lake (so called from tiio occnsi'inal groves of cedar — a tive rarely seen in Hupert'e Land —
growing on its shore-, particularly at its western extremity), is an expanric of water of considerable
extent in which the turliid waters of tiie i^askatrheWim arc allowed to disseminale and settle before
re-uniting into on;- gre.it river and rushnii; down ilie (iiaiid liipid into Lake Winnipeg. It is
situated III about a!)"' !.'>' N. lalitu'le, and KM)" W longitude; and is nearly ;jO miles h'lig, witli a
breadth at its widest part iif about 'J.> miles; its coast line tiiibiaeing an area of water of about 312
s(pian' mils. Cedar Lake being more than (ill leet higher than L.ike Winnipeg, is conseipiently
upwards of (!rt8 feet above llie <ea level. The only tribiilaiy it h.is ol any si/e, bi;-i<1e its principal
.I'ledrr the S.isk itcliewan, i< a liraiieli leadiiiL; lioiii Muo-e Like and IIoiih', which eiilers it Iroiii the
north. I Wiis nimble to obtain soundings of llu- Lai e in conseipuiice ot the high winds and stormy
weallnr that prevailed during our voyage through it, but .-^n liir as I can ie.irn it has sullieieiit
de|itli of water lor the largi ^t cral't, except at the west end, wiicre the Sitrkatchewaii is rapidly
filling it op.

Wi' entered Cellar I 'ike on tiie morning of tin" -0th Aiigii-I. and eoasled along the north shore till
about noon, when we ran into a line little harlioiir to eat dinner al'lcr making a long ti'a.iTse. In
the afierimon, while cro'siiig a wide and deep bay or e.iiind stretching liir lo the nortli (the extremity
being below the liori/on t a s'till' bieeze sprang up, soon raising a very he, ivy sea, in which our canoe
became almost uninanageible, ['iteliing triiiuiKloiisly and slopping a great deal of w.iter. On the
'Jlst August Wf brcikla-tod at the Habbit I'liiiit, and entered tlii' portion of the Saskatchewan
issuing from tlu' e.iSl end of the lake about no.ni.

The ninlhiTii coast of IVilar Lake i.s deeply indented and viry low, and the country continues flat
for a long distime back. At -dnie of the points and on many of the i-lands along the eoa.-t, there
are exjiosines ol' limestone in hori/onlal beds, the top of the strata being a few feet above the surface
of the lake. It is to be regretted that, owing to the stormy weather and the laK' at which we were
obliged to travel, no oppoi tiinity was alforded for eolleetiiig >peeimen.<. The main land and ishind«
being well wooded wiili \ :ils,;iii-spriice, birch, po|il.ir, t,ini;ir.ick, cidar, anil Hanksian (line, could
furnish an abundant siipp y of fuel ; ihiis ollir.ng, like the Sas!„it( liewan, thcilitiis to steam
navigation; but a consider ihle portion of the land is reported to be swampy and unavailable for
agricultural purposes.

The portion of the Saskatihewan betv. , en Cedar Lake and Lalie Winnipeg is neatly 20 miles in
length, and its gener,il direction is ea.-uily. Throiigli this chimin 1, the great vobi'ine of w.iter
hioiight down for many hundred miles by ihe main river, and its norili mid south branches, together
wltli that collected by many tributaries tlirough a wide extent of country, is disembogued by one
grand mouth into Lake Winnijieg.

Where the Saskati-hewan emanates fnmi Odar Lake the hod of the river is divided for a short
distmce into two chiinnels, liy nil island. We entered the smaller or south channel and found it
only two or three chains wide, for a. distance of about a qii.'uter of a mile. At its narrowest p.irt,
near the beginning, the Indians have a fishing station, and white IJsh and sturgeon are caught there
in abundance. Along the side of this water-coui se there is an outcrop of iioriznntal limestone, three to
four feet in thickness, above the water, covered v.itli a thin coating of vegetable mould, supporting
sindl poplar, willow and dogwood. I brought away some specimens of the rock, but could find no
fossils, riie current in this channel, as in most places wlicre the river is narrower than usual, is
strong; meiusnring two and a half to three miles an hour.

.\bout hall a mile below Cedar Lake on the right or west bank of the river, which is now more
than half a mile in width, is situated Cedar Lake lioime, a winter trading post of the Hon. Hudson's
Bay Company, lately eslahlislud, with a view to cheek or compete witli the " l''reeraeii " who como
annuallv from Ucd Uiver to trade with the Indians.

L 3

! .1

abort (liatniice. 'I'lu'it
rapid, iind (iivi()iii<r it
under my obsoivaiini).
Bny Coiiipiiiiy 'i Ixmta.

86 REPORTS or THE ASSINNinOINE AND

Ut'twccn Ct'dar Luke mid Croni* Lako Itapid, a little bclow wliioli tlio Suskatcliowan (';tpuiid£ into
Cro.'B Lako, the river L-t very broad and wideim lien? and llicro into dwp hays and I'uniu'l-nliupt'd
indrntations. It j;rows narrower afjain, a liltlo aliove tlio rapid, wIuto a projirtini; point ot liuio-
Btoiie, obstructing the current, cauxcs a dniall smooth rapid on llie south side uiih a tall of about
eight inchcfl. 'I'iie Cro:^^ Like Rapid isi occasioned by a band of linicHtone inleriiectiiig the bed of
the Sankatclicwaii nearly at rijjbt angle:*; and this is the first iiitcri option of any niagiiitude to the
even How of tiic liver. The .Saakatclicwan is let down liy this rapid about live feet and n half ' n
is a hir^r ishuid near the south side of the river, extending the length of die
into two eliaiineU. The broad '>t or nuithern channel is that wiiicli cume
It iii about •'ID chains widi', and is the route fullowcd by the Ilun. lludton't
In order to ascend the i.ipid.lhe eonipaiiy a bout-, of four to five to;i jiidoii,
have to be •' tracked ' or dragged up with half cargo, and the other half of their load h.i- :n Ik;
carried over the portaLie, a distance of 'J.'IO yards. The fall from the west to the cast 'i.d ol' the

Iiortage (obtained by livclliiif;) is -l.OS feet, and from the ea.-t oni! of the port ige to the <piii't water
lolow, about one loot and a half, making a total fall of '>.'>^ feet, l^i.ideil boats run the rapid
without dillicully, .ind if the channel were cleared of boulders and improved, it might be aieeiidcd by
a powerful steamer.

Having spent Mune lime in making observations at Cross Lake IJapid, it was late in the afternoon
when We entered ("id»s l^akc ; win re our liidiai". guide left us. although he had ngre. 1 to pilot us
down the Griind liapid. H.e cNpresM'd him-cif anxious to return to his familv at Moo-e Lake, and
could not be induced to go far.her. During the rct.irn journey, upon which he .-et out in a bttle
ranoe that he picked up, coming down the river, he would ha\e several days hard paddling against a
swift current.

At the east end of Cros- Lake we met Mr. Christie (a gentleman in the Mrvice of lli. Hon.
Hiid'on's Hay Company, who had recently been ajipointed In the charge of Kdmonlon Hoiis,), in
Conmiand of a briga<li of boats, »•// rniifr iVoin York i-"aetoiy to lidmontoii and the llockv .Moinitaiii
District. ,Mr. Cluistu 's heavily laden buiis(l.l In iimuber ), were manned by .i mothv group of
Indians, Halt-breeds. Orkney-men, Norwegians, and Negroes ; they liiid just made the laborious
n3ce.it of the Grand Uapid, and thus far loeir (.rogress had been very alow. Mr. Christie repre-
sented the many dilliculties which had to be eonlended with in a lio.il voyage; the drteiitions on tin'
lakes by contrary winds; thu strong ciiik iil-. and r:ipids that had to be eneoiinlereil in a-ceiidiiig the
rivers; and th.' dirticulty of procuring nun siiitible fcU" the wiu'k ,eaeli 'loat rec|uiring si.\ to tight
experienced voyageiirsj, and he ex[)ressed a hope that the long talkeil-oi' -.teamers would soon make
their appearance on Lake Winnipeg, to replace the present tedious, toil-ome, and expensive mode of
conveyance.

In reply as to whether there would be >,illii lent business to warrant the placing of steam ve.ssels o!i
these north-western waters, ( irri speitive of the e~la!)li>hmeiit of a coiitinent.d route to the I'acific,
throiigli lliitish Ten itory ;) I was mfoniKd tl'.al thiri' would be plenty <if freight to carry for ihi'
present requirements and trailic of luipcits Land : as during the viar flts.')>) no fewei than l(>7
freight boats of the largest clafs, belo'e^ing to privati- traders and merchai:l>, as well as the- Hon
IIud.«on's liay Comp.iny, (many of ;■ ei.i loaded with valuable furs,) had passed Norway House, at
the iiortl.ern oiitl-t of Lake Winn'peg, nt roiiti- to York lactory ; and ntnrned with heavy cargoes ol
mercli'nillze broiujlil in sea :o York ci/iis'sting cliiedy of the usual supplies tor Selkirk settlement,
aniimiiiition, and a variety ofgnod^ liu' tlie pro-eciitioii of the Indian trade both by the Companv and
" Free iiieii. i he aggregate ijuap 'ly oflVelghl transported by this fleet of boats from the sea-board
to Lake AVinnipeg and IVom tlieiiei lisliibnted along its princip.d ferdcrs would be upwards of MOO
tons. It is well known ll.,',t there ire l.irge «]Uanlities of goods imported by other lines of communica-
tion — chielly through the L'nited .^lates Territory at ]<rescnt : and as the Y'ork I'actory ro'ile is to be
jiartialiy abandoned, a large portion of the importalions of Rupert's Land will liavi' bencellirlli to
enter llie Winnipeg Hasiii from (he south, so that there will doubtless besullicicnt commerce in view
of the great water facilities alli'rded by the country, to encourage the initiati n of steam navigation.

After remaining at Mr. Ciirisliv's encampment about an hour, we set od' again in the hope of
I't.icliiiig the Grand Rapid bel'oii' dark. We soon entered a rapid by which we were lowered about
■2i feel in a distance of Id chains, h)llowed, after an interval ol smooth water by another about a mile
long, hilt with an easy incliiiMion, the descent in that distance not being above 7^ feet; it being
nearly ilark when the foot of the lutli-r wa~ reaclml, wec.imped for tin- night. (August "Jl.)

Cro-s Lake doubtless diiivcs Its iiame from its shape and the peculiar po.sition it bears in relation
to the Saskateliev'an, of which it is evidently a dilatation. It is an oblong sheet of water, upward.-
of eight miles in length, having its longitudinal iliameter at right angles to the genernl trend of the
river; three miles is its greatest transverse diameter, and this breadth i.s about the distance between
the termiualion and beginning of the bed of the river on either side of the lake. The altitude ot
Cross Lake in relation to Cedar Lake and Lake Winnipeg, acquired by levelling the rapids and
measuring the currents in the river, woulil make its approximate elevation above the sea about iii>0
feet It is reported to be deeper than Cedar Lake, and its banks on the cast and west side are more
abrupt and rocky, but its nDrtliern and southern shores are very low. Along the const there are some
fine groves of baLsam-spruceand aspen, but the land back from the lake is very flat and poorly wooded,
a great portion of the original forest having been destroyed by tire; large tracts of burnt and dead
timber are seen here and there ; the blackened trunks of poplar and spruce indicating the ridges or
dry areas over which the conflagration extended, and the lifeless tamaracks revealing the swamps or
flooded land. The lake extends so far to the north, its extremity in that ilirection is not seen from
the travcrsi- line, being below thehori/.ou of the spectator. In the northern arm of the lake there are

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOIUNG EXPEDITION.

•f

■"■ 111);, a llghtt'iUMl BtcuiiKT, wiili powi-rtul
■I' pricautiuns.

ilfininj; (ii- smimiit ot" tiio Cirniiil llnpkl.

ii "urri'iit, ispcciiilly wliire it* hi'd is

iied, Miryiiiji tVoiii iiiiic clmins to

ami :i IkiII' iiiik'B ait lioiir. 'lliere

irounil «liicli tlio water lioiU and

iMiilli .^^.di' ol' lilt: cliaiint'l nru iiidir itiil l)V

aoit'ral wooded idandt, but at thi>y wito tomo diitance from our track I wnn nimble to nicertnin the
nature o( tlieir ruriiiiilion.

Thure beiii^' two rnpidi between Cron Luko and the Grand Itniiid. llio Siiikatchownii may Ih> nald
to dcafi'iid by four diHtinct Htopa from CVdiir Lake lo Lake \V|iinipi'|{; thu tirnt niu> ciut nf Cross
Lake, biivin^f a loii);lb iilabniit 10 cbainn with an ruliinntcd fall uf'J^ I'eet, occurs linlf n niilo below
tbi- ri'-ciimnii'ncciiiunt ol' the I'liaiiiu'i of thu river, and appears to bo altribiitiibli' to a low and neaily
level belt of linii'stoiio. tbrou^jli wliieli the river lias ({radually excavated its way by three lepnrnte
cbannels, Tlio middle elmiiiiel, l>y wliicli we descended thu rapid is only •'i-t cliaiiis wide, and could
apparently be ascended by a Hteiiiiior witliout (lillieiiliy, as it i'l deep and appears lo be IVeo from
boulders. 'I'lie utiior clianiicis iniKlit even be snore favourable for Bieam iiavi<{iition, bcin); broader
as far as cunld be observed, and containiii)r a {{renter voliimo of water; tliey are however n little out
of the direct course, and for this reason are not followed by the boat-i. The siiuiotli ]iortiona of the
river are really broad here; the widih above the two islaiKls tornied by t'leso three channels boin;(
more than lialfu mile, and bulow them upwards of three-(|uarters of a mile. About ii niilu below
the foot of the tir!>t rapid llio second one lie);iiis. Its leiif^th by "dead-reckoning," ia fiillv a
mile, and it-> approximate fall is not more than 7) feet. It is u lon)( ){radual slope with a (feep
viiaiMiel of rolling, but eomparativi I', iinlioKi'ii water in the middle; the watfr is more tiirbiiluiit nt
the -(ides, where the current is iiiterrnpti'l by pointn of limestone rock, boulders, and debris. 'I'lio
cxpoiiiircr of limestone on the point*, are -l-ti feet in thickness above the water with n horizontal
atratiKcatioii. The hinded boat.', of the Hon. lludsoii'a Day Company descend this rapid easily, and
as they are (lenerally " tracked ' lip with the wholi of ill
engines mii;lit siirmoiint it liy takiiM^ the lie^t chain.

It is nlioiit lour miles fi'om the lout of this l.i<^t rap
III that distance the river is snioolli and deep, iiiit li.,
conliactcd. The width of the river in lliii interval i
a <iuiirter uf a mile, and the rale of eiirrciil is iVmi
are one m- two larye hoiilders in tlu' bed of the river
hiibliles like a caldron ; and now an<l tlien shoal" on tin'
the rippling water and groiind-srtell occa-^icnied by llie current in pii-.-iiii; over them. The land
between Cross Lake and the (iiand l{a|)id is !,'enerally low and llat, lull thickly liiiibercil with lialsam-
ijpriice, poplar, tamarack, and hireli. .\t the second rapid e.-^st of Cross Lake the banks on the north
side of the river are eij,dit or ten feet above the Miif.ice of the water, and are composed of a li;4lit
coloured drift clay. These clay banks gradually iiicna^e in heii^lit Inwards the Uraiid llapid, where
they attain an elevation of upwards of "JO feel ; h.it it is probalile that llie .-iirface of the country is
nearly level, and that it is the descent in the river vhieli causes the apparent risi' in its banks.

August "J'Jnd. — I'liis beiii^ J^iniday, with a view to rest our wearied limbs, we did not proceed on
our journey liii after breakf.i.il (uliuiit S a.m.)

lIoHcver desirablr it might have been, under other cireunistaiices to have remained inactive on
this day; in the po-itioii in which we were placed, Ike a ship nl sea, with a limited supply of provisions,
anil a Ion;; and hazardous voyage before us, it would liavi' liecii alti'gelher out of tin- (piestion ; indeed,
the Ki>sol a day or i vtn nn hour might iiave eumpromiseil the safety of the whole party.

Ill about an b.iiir ve reached the beginning or we-t end of the portage at the head of llie Grand
Kapid, whence my v uious instrumental oliservatioiis and nieasnrenients in relation lo the rapid began.
In order lo eonimence operations we disi'inbarketl and iiiiide the portage, which of course is never done
by b.iats ill descendiiig the river. Yet, notwiihstandiiig that boats invariably "run ' the whole of the
rapid it would be extremely perilous to descend the u|)per portion of it in a small heavily laden canoe
without a guide.

So niueli liaviniT to be done with so (ew hands, our little party exhibited a scene of unusual activity and
exertion, from the time we landed at the top ot the rapid until we cainpeil in the twilight on the coast of
Lake Winnipeg. I'lie first thing to be accninpiivhcd was the liaiisporlalion of the canoe and the heavier
articles of luggage lo the east end of the portage; to ellect tliis, tin- united energies of the partv were
retpiired, and owing to the length of the portage it i oeiipieil some time. While W igwani was carrying
the reuiniiuler of the lailing, I was engaged with Lmiis in making a survey ol' the portage and rapid,
chaining across in one diiection and levelling hack in another, and so lorlh.

About I p.m. the var.ous observations were completed, and everything had arrived at the cast end of
the portage. The dillereiit ojiciations involved the crossing; olihe puiiage ^lllore than a mile in Iciislh)
many times during the ilay. While dinner was [ircpariii'; 1 oeeiipieil niysell in making a sketch of the
cataract and i.xamining the character of the pcrpemliciil.ir liiiu-loiie elills at its side.

After eating a busty meal we re-embnrked to run the lower portion of the rapid.* The vovageurs
wished me to walk through the woods to the foot <if the rapid, (probably to lighten the canoe,) but as
the day was ulready fur advanced, and being anxious to reach Lake Winnipeg, as well as lor other
reu.vons, I deemed it expedient to go down " in canoe."

In running the rapid we followed as closely as po.ssible the insiructions given to us bvourold guide on
the plains (John !S|)ence), who hud often piloted the old N. W. Co.'s A'«/7/i canoes down its entire length.
In attempting, according to his directions, to cross from the norili lo the south side of the rapid, in order
to get into what was reported to be the best clianncl for ;•. smidl canoe, such was the fierceness of the
current and the turbulence of the great surges .and breakers in the middle tluit we were nearly engulfed;
and although every nerve was strained we were swept down with impoliious velocity, and did not get
near the other side till we were about three <iuurters of a mile below our starting poiiit. We were then

• The |i«rl lit'ie dMii-iiated aj lliu liiwtr portion, althau|;li tl e Grind Rapid in une conlinuoui torrent from bLjjinning lo end, it that
IkIoiv Ihe cut end of Ui« portage, and U more than one mile and a half in length.

L 4

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-^)

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

P"^

^^ 4^\ WcS

Vy^"^

93 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716) 872-4503

?5l- \j - ^TJ

iip

!•

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

impcilriil with nstoniinhing swiftness niong the south KJile of the torrent, often in dangerous proximity to
the ru;;geil wall of rocks bounding the chnnael, and now nnd tlicn wliizzini; past — nimost gTMitig—
sharp rocky points juuing out into the river, iijjaiiist wliich the thundering waters seethed and foamed
in their fury. During the descent the voyngeurs exerted tliemselves to the utmost of their strength, and
evinced an ndmirable degree of coolness and dexterity.

The Grand Kapid is acknowledged by those who hnve witnessed ii and who have had opportunities
of traversing the great river systems of tile continent, to be unsurpassed (as a rapid) in magnificence and
extent, as well as in volume of water. It is certainly u tbrmidable barrier to the navigation of the
Saskatchewan.

The following are the dimensions of some of the leading features of the Grand Rapid :^

I. Ill Length. — The portage path is nearly straight, with a magnetic course, from the upper to the
lower end, of S. SO" £. ; it is 87 chains 40 links in length ; the distance between its extremes by the
river is a little more than thin, as the river describes an arc of which the portage is the chord, but as the
head of the rapid is a little below the west end of the portage, this distance may be adopted as the length
of the upper or most precipitous portion of the rapid. The distance from the east end of the purtnge
to the toot of the rapid by our truck is 129 chains. This would make the whole length of the rapid
216 chains 40 links, or nearly 2'^ miles.

3. Its Descent, — By levelling carefully along the portage path, I ascertained the fall between the
smooth waier at the head of the rapid to the general level of ihc water at the east end of the portage to
be 2S'58 feet ; and alter observing instnnnetitally the descent in the lower portion of the rapid as far as
the nature of the country would allow, I closed my levels on a bench mark at the surface of a p(md of
still water fed liy an eddy at the lower end of the portage. The fall in the lower portion of the rapid,
acquired by levelling and hy careful estimation is about 15 feet; this would give aliout 43^ feet as the
total descent of the rapid.

3. Its llri'adth and Depth. — The width of the river, at the upper end of the portage, is about 20
chains ; at the he.id of the rapid, al)oul seven chains further down, where there is an island in the bed of
the river, it is about 30 chains; and at the lower end of the portage, whore the rapid emerges from the
highest limestone plateau, its width is about 10 chains. From thence it gradually widens towards the
foot of the rapid, where it attains a width o('2o chains. I was unable to obtain soundings of the rapid,
but from the depth and voliunc of water above and below it, where the river is much biouder, it is
undoubtedly deep.

The Oraiid Unpid, throughout alino.st its entire lenglli, washes the b.ises of perpendicular eicarpnients of
rock. It passes through two plateaux of brittle biilf-colonred limestone, with a horizontal stratification ;
the top of the first, or upper plateau, being nearly on a level with the surface of the water at the head
of the rapid, and unilerlying n stratum of light-coloured clay, 23 feet in thickness, in which are
embedded boulders and pelibles of limestone ; the whole overlaid by about eight inches of vegetable
mould, and clothed by a forest of balsam-spruce, tamarack, and poplar. Tlie surface of this plateau
continues nearly level as far as the lower end of the portage, where die top of \\\e rock is 25'36 feet
above the surface of the water, and about the same height above the lower pl.itciiu. 'J'he lower plateau
continues some distance further down, but is toon hidden by drift clay banks, which at the foot of the
rapid have an altitude of 20-30 feet above tlie water.

It is not improbable lh;it the Grand Rapid is th'i result of the eroding influence of the great bcnly of
water in the river, upon tlie rock through which it flows — the limestone being of a friable and yielding
nature. At a remote period, the water of the ijaskutcliewun was perhaps lowereil from the top of this
rock formation, by a per|)endicular cataract; the precipitous leap most probably begun nt the lower end
of the portage, or at the eastern limit of the highest limestone plateau, from wiience the river gradually
wore away the rock, at the same time diminishing the height of die fall, until it became a foaming rapid
from beginning to end.

The upper portion of the Grand Rapid — of which I succeeded in getting a sketch— presents a scene
that .strikes the beholder with wonder and admiration. The great boily of water that has been stealing
along, swiftly but silently, for many miles, appears to be suddenly imbued with life — the rippling of the
river becoming gradually more turbulent, until the surges grow into huge, rolling billow.4, crested with
tbain, like waves in n tempestuous sea. The great rollers and breakers seem, to the spectator, to be
continually changing in shape and appearance, on account of the lines of surf and the peculiar colour
of the water; but although the mighty cataract thus appears to be fur ever changing, it really rolls on
• ever the fame.

The ascent of the Grand Rapid is one of the most laborious duties that has to be performed on a boat
voyage from Lake \\'innipcg to the Saskatchewan ilistrict. The Hon. Hudson's Bay Company's
brigades surmount this fearful interruption to the upward navigation of the Saskatchewan in the
following way : On arriving at the foot of the rapid every boat discharges one-half of its cargo of four
to five tons. 'Ihus lightened, t!iey are then "tracked" (towed) up to the beginning of the portage —
the whole t)f the crew of six or eight voyagcurs, with the exception of the bowsman and steersman who
remain in the boat, being engaged in the labour of tracking. Each man is attached to the tracking-line
by a leather belt, or portage strap, pussing round his body; and harnessed in this manner they drag
the boat along, running and scrambling barefooted over the slippery and jagged rocks at the sides of
tlie cataract. When the lower end of the portage is reached, the boat is emptied, and " run " buck
again to the foot of the rapid, and from thence hauled up as belure with the remainder of its load. The
wliole of the lading is then carried over the portage, exclusive of 15 pieces, or about 1,350 lbs., which
is left in the boat. With this ballast, the boat is pulled across to the south side of the rapid, to he
tracked up, as the towing-path is better there tliun on the north side. In consequence of the rapidity
and violence with which the upper portion of the rapid flows, in ascending it, it is necessary to employ
the "main line" — a much thicker and stronger rope than is generally used for tracking. To this line

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

ihe crews of one or two bouts are laslicd, nnd thus tliey nin iiloiii^ the top of the clKTs of limestone, —
there being no footini; at tiie Ixitloin of these walls of rock,— limiliiif; the heavy crul't up tlie s-nr^jiiiir
cascades. The utmost sireiifjth of the bnwsitiaii with his pnji , ,hk1 tlie sleersiiian with his loiis,' sweep
oar. Is required to prevent the boat from being dashed to pieces ainonj; the rocks.

Small brifjades, feebly niainicil, often linni their boats over the portage. The poitage road bears
evidence of this, as it is deeply scored and furrowed by the keels of l)oats from beginning to end.

Although the Grand Rapid is the most serious obstacle that the Company's boats have to encounter,
it is not the only dilEculty they meet with oij the Saskatchewan. Tlie whole ascent of the river is one
of labour and fatigue. The current is so swift — as the name of the river is well known to imply — that.
the voyageurs would track nearly all the way to tlie Rocky Mountains if the banks of the riv< r would
allow ; but where the river passes through marshes and swumps they have no alternative but to pull
against the current, however strong it may happen to be.

Uefore finally determining upon any works or measures for overcoming the Grand Rapid, in order
to render the whole of the Saskatchewan na.'igable for steam vcs.»cls from Lake Winnipeg, without
interruption, it would be necessary to make a more extensive anil elaborate survey; but probably
sufficient information and data have been acquired during this reconnaissance from which schemes might
be devised, and suggestions oU'ered, for surmounting the difficulty. To navigate the Saskatcriewati at
present, a steamer would evidently have either to be built above the rapid, hauled over the portage, or
"warped" up the rapid itself. Seeing that ihe Company's large batleaux are hauled up the rapid by
manual labour, it does not seem impraclicable for an empty steamboat, willi engines of gieat power, to
ascend it by the aid of hawsers and guy-ropes stretclie<l iVoni the steamer to the land, using, along vith
capstans, the motive power of the steamer as far as available. Hut in any case, luiless a canal were con-
structed, ii triiiisliipment of cargo hound upwards uouid have to take place, whelhcr there were steamers
plying above and iielow the rapid, or whedier steamers were forced up the rapid; so that ii would be
necessary to construct a good road or tramway on the present line of portage. Tlie features of the
country in the vicinity of the (iran<l Rapid are very favourable for a road, and even for a settlement,
as the hanks of the river are liigh, with a considerable depth of good soil, from the second rapid cast of
Cross Lake to near Lake Wimiipeg. There is also abundance of timber for fuel ami building.

From the foot of the Grand Rapid, the Saskatchewan flows, with a pretty strong euneiit, in a
northerly direction till it enters Lake Wimiipeg. Its mouth has a width of aliont 28 chains, and is a
little over two miles below the lower end of the rapid. On the coast of Lake Winnipeg, immediaielv
east of the nioiKh of the Saskatchewan, there are several deep and narrow bays, or estuaries, inar.ihy
at their inner extremities, and separateil by narrow points or spits of gravel, by which it seems not
improbable the Saskatchewan entered the hike at some period of its existence, and that north-easterly
gales and -.hoves of ice have driven up these barriers, and caused the river to excavate new outlets.

We visited an Indian encainptnent on the north bank of the river, a little below the foot of the rapid,
in the expectation of procuring some sturgeon, but were unsuccessful, the fishery carried on here by the
Indians having failed this year. This encampment of two lodges was the only one we saw on the Main
Saskatchewan. It had been a larger camp, but eiglit families had jn^t left it, previous to our arrival,
for their winter quarters at the Little Saskatchewan. Tliey are Srtanipy Indians, and generally winter
at rairford, from whence tliey proceed in summer to the Grand Rapid; where, by assisting in dr.igging
the boats and ymrA/;/(Hy, they get a small reeoir.pence in the shape of tea, tobacco, or pecniean. 1 hev
oecu|)y the lime between the arrivals of the dlU'orent brigades of boats in calchitig and drying fish, and
generally leave after the last fieet has passed up in the autumn.

Reaching Lake Winnipeg about sunset, we proc.edi.l along the coast till it became too dark to
coiitimie observations, and camped for the night upon a luuiow spit of giiivel, separated from the
woniled shores by a tuarsh.

August 2;{rd. — Proceeding on our journey this morning at -JSO a.m., and being favoured with a
light breeze for a few hours, we reached the neck of the great promontory, L'apr KUcliiiiashi, about
noon. From the mouth of the Saskatchewan to this point the eo.isl trends to the south-east, and is
indented in a remarkable maimer by a series of deep bays of every shape and si/e. As it would
retpiire unlimited time and resources to penetrate into every sinuonity i)f the coast, we generally steered
straight from point to point, alllioiigh in doing so sonic long traverses had to bo made.

The northern coast line of the promontory being nearly straight, with fine sand beaches, afl'ordiii"'
tolerably good footing, we tracked along the shore for the remaind.r of the ilay ; although this was
hard enough work, the men were glail to avail themselves of it, as a change or relief from padilling.
Uy working 15 hours to day we were enabli'd to camp at the extreme point of the headhand, where, the
night being favourable, the magnetic variation of l,">" E. was oliserveil. The Ojibways call this cape
" Kitchinashi," and the Swampys " Missineo," both names signifying " Rig Point." By .some it is
called " Tile Ddtour." o J => = 3

August 24tb.— A fine morning, tlic lake quite calm. After dmibling the cape we overtook eight
small canoes containing the band of Indians who left the Grand Rapid on Sunday, 2and. In u short
time a light breeze sprang up, and by lioisting a blanket we sailed at ii jxetty good rate for some hours.
About 2 |).in. the wind began to increase in strength and turned suddenly against us, so that we had to
r;;!< in behind a low point of sand and gravel lor shelter. Altliongh the wind still continued high, we
surted again and maile a traverse to a small sand islaml, on which we were obliged to remain, being
then over two miles from the main land, and the storm having increased in vi(denee. A storm of wind
soon raises a very heavy sea on Lake Winnipeg on account of its little depth of water.

The island on which we were detained is one of the Gull-egg group, which, with the point of si
protruding li.ini the main land, form a pretty good harbour on the south side of the neck of the I'l ...
promontory. The Indians were nearly destitute of provisions, and followed us to the inland, where
tliey fortunately got a plentiful supply of eggs and young gulls; but having httle aininunition, they

mil

tne ijreat

■' t[

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

brought down only a few old ones, although they hovered in countless numbers over the island,
screnining at the wholcsiile destruction of their young brood.

August 25th, — Tiie storm rnged all night, nnd tiiis morning we found ourselves surrounded by a
fonniing sen on a low island of sand about 100 yards in length, nnd so narrow that the spray from the
breakers dashed completely over it. The gale blew hard from the east till alxiut noon, when it l)cgan
to siibsido ; I then determined upon starting on our course, but seeing u thunderstorm approaching,
decided upon taking dinner before making the attempt. It was well that we did so, because just ns we
were hastily swallowing our meal of pcmicnn, the thunderstorm, accompanied by strong wind and
heavy rain, burst upon us with great violence. Some of the Indians were eiuleavouriiig to reach the
next island in the line of traverse, but had to abandon the attempt and drive before the gale to the
main land, three miles off.

The storm soon abating again, we crossed to the next island and from thence to the main shore ; and
after coasting along for some miles encamped on a sandy (joint, where we found a small bluff* of poplar
and spruce.

August 2C)th.— Last night the northern lights, or aurora borealis, were unusually brilliant, darling and
playing about with extraordinary rapidity in all directions, sometimes extending to the zenith and some-
times to the south of it. The voyngeurs said they (lortendcd a coming storm, and their prognostications
proved correct. The night was clear, with n bright moon till about midnight, when a cold north-
westerly wind arose, followed in a very short time by a stormy seu. The gnlo soon veered round to the
north, increasing to a perfect hurricane, and during the day the lake was white in all directions with
breakers nnd foam. A heavy surf breaking along the coast and tearing nwny large portions of the bank
on which we were camped, warned us to move our canoe and lading back Irom the shore ; yet, notwith-
standing every precaution, some of our paddles and poles were swept nway during the niglit. A large
marsh being in our rear, we could retire but a few yards from the rag.K lake to wait for the abatement
of the storm.

Aufjust '27tli. — After midnight the wind began to decrease gradually, and by daybreak it had so far
snhsitii'd ns to permit us to eontinuf our voyage. 15y breakfasting at a point where we witnessed an
oiitciDp of limestone, i was enabled to procin'e some fossils. This, the first rock expo.sure observed
since leaving the Saskntchewnn, is npparently the tcrminntion of a ridge nimiing at right angles to the
coast line, atid bounded on either side by marsh and swamp. The top of the rock is 10 feet above the
surface of the lake, and is covered by a stratum of boulders aiul drill two feet in tliickne.ss, supporting
small poplar, tamarack, spruce, birch, and liank^inii pine; there are oidy six feet of the limestone
exhibited, the remaining four feet bein;; concealed by n talus of boulders and ddbris. 'I'lie high water-
mark of the lake reaches to the top of the talus.

A contrary wind arising about noon detained us four hours ut the mouth of a creek, which we
n.scemled n short distance. The entrnnce, or where the creek cuts through the saiui beach enclosing u
ntarsh, is one chain wide; within the sand bench the creek expands into a deep pond 30 chains in
diameter, surrounded by a marsh ; this pond is fed by the inner portion of the creek, a broad and
sluggish stream five feet deep meandering through a tamarack swninp. It is reported by the Iiulians to
have its source a long distance inland. As there is but one and a half to two feet of water over the
bar this could only be used .is a hnrlmur for boats. Its position is delineated on our map about half-wny
between the Uull islands and War I'ath River.

We set off again after the wind had moilerated n little, but were compelled to camp in an hour and n
halt in the lee of a point, on the weather side of which an adverse wind was blowing liard, driving before
ita heavy sen. Being thus repulsed by the wind, I directed my attention to the rliiuacterof the coast in
the vicinity of our biviuiac. Along the shore there extends along .straight .snini beach, (iO feel wide,
and arched like n road-way ; on the irnier side of this beach there is a tamarack and black spruce
swamp, with a bottom of bluck muck nnd moss two feet in thickness, covered with water. This "mus-
keg " is said to continue for a great distance back. Hy levelling I tcmnd the surface of the water in the
swamp to be only eight inches higher than the lake ; and as the crown of the sand-biach ' oidy four
and a half feet above the level of the water, and is covered with driftwood, it is evidei ' 'liat lake
washes into the marsh during high water.

Leaving camp at 4'30 a.ni,, August 28th, we reached the mouth of War I'ath Ui^ ji , .in.

The Indians say this river rises in lakes, and, draining a great extent of swampy country, is very large
in spring. Tiiere is three feet of water over the bar at its month ; the ehainiel at tlie cntriu-.ce is
contracted in sunnncr by the sand to a width of 40<l'et, with an average depth of four feet; within the
entrance there is a basin 30 chains broad, forming a boat harbour of easy access.

An excellent opportunity was nITbrded to-day for testing the accuracy of the risuhs obtained from
ob.servations made with the log-line, upon the correctiu'ss of which the detail ui " tilling in " between
established points, by track or dead reckoning survey, in n great measure depends'. l!y chaining tliree-
tburths of a mile along the straight sand bench, near the mouth of War Path River, I was enabled to
obtain the rate of the canoe very accurately ; the mean of u series of observations registered by the log
while making the test corresponding with the rate computed from the measured distance. The average
velocity of our canoe in passing through still water in calm weather was ascertained, l)y timing it
carefully over tlie standard, to be three nnd a half miles an hour.

Alter tracking all ntternoon along straight saiul beaches, which .separate marshes from the lake, we
camped nearly o))posite Caribou Island, on a coast similar to that which we left in the mortung. The
Indians came uj) with us, and erected their lodges in our neighbo irhood.

August SDth. — Embarking this morning at daylight, we reached Limestone Point about 11 o'clock,
after making n traverse of three miles against a strong head wind. On this point there is a very fini
exposure ol light coloured limestone, containing numerous fossils, some of which I succeeded in procuring.
I'lie outcrop on the point is 14 tcet in thickness above the lake, in massive horizontal layers, overlaid

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

er the island,

rrounded l)y a
iprny from the
when it l)cf;an
1 nppronchinfr,
iiiscjiist ns we
rong wind nnd
ig to reach tlie
tlie gnic to the

ain shore ; nnd
bluff of poplnr

mt, dnrting nnd
•tiilh iindsonie-
irofjnosticiitions

n cold north-
ed round to the
directions with
ons of the hunk

; yet, notwith-
liglil. A large
r the ahatement

tk it hiid so far
ve witnessed an
josure observed
lit angles to the
• feet above the
less, supporting
if the limestone
I'lie high water-
reek, which we
iich enclosing u
id 30 chains in
k, a broad and

the Indians to
water over the

about half-way

an hour and a
driving before
rol the coast in
I, «iO feel wide,
id bhick spruce
This " nius-
he water in the
cl'. ' only four
'liat 'ake

li^ Ji , .ni.

•y, is very large
lie tntrar.ce is
eet ; within the

s obtained from
ig in " between
chaining three-
was enabled to
red by the log
The average
d, by timing it

m the lake, we
morning. The

lout 11 o'clock,
: is u very fnu
jd in procuring,
layers, overlaid

■A

by two and a half feet of drill and fragments of limestone that have evidently been broken up by ice.
This headland is the abrupt termination of a narrow ridge of limestone closed with aspen, spruce, and
birch ; it is about two miles long, running nearly north and south. On the west side of it is Portage
Bay, so called by the Indians, as they sometimes make a portage from the foot of it across the neck of
the point.

After remaining here about two hours, we proceeded on our journey. On rounding the point we
found the wind on the east side of it blowing directly in our teeth, and it required the utmost exertions
for two hours to force the canoe against u high gale nnd stormy sea, until we got into the lee of a small
island, it being impossible to land on the main shore. The caiioe leaked and shipped so nnich water
during this traverse, that, in order to lighten her, we were compelled to throw overtraard some of the
heavier of our geological specimens. It was with great regret I saw one of them, a very large and fine
ortlioceratite, consigned to the deep.

On the island we found part of the Indian band, but the greater portion were hurrying on to the
Little Saskatchewan to get fish, ns they had nothing to eat. AVe saw them in the distance, battling
against the wind and se:i, their little canoes like specks, tossing umong the swells and breakers. The
Indians remaining on the island were chiefly old men and young children, the more feeble of the party,
and being ravenously hungry, they were all in the marshes busily engaged in pulling np and eating the
roots of bulrushes. The storm increased towards evening, and we were obliged to camp on the island
ourselves.

August 30th. — Although ti unfavourable wind had diminished but little this morning, we plied our
paddles so well, and made siicli good headway against it, that we entered the month of the Little
Saskatchewan or Dauphin Kiver about 1 1 a.m. \\'e tracked up the river to the Indian encampment,
about four miles from its mouth, for (he purpose of procuring fish, nnd found the Indians at tlie rapids
scooping large numbers of excellent white fish from the eddies.

As the we^t coast of Lake Winnipeg south of the Little Saskatchewan was examined, and will bo
described and rejxirted upon by yourself, it will be unnecessary for nie to do more than give a brief
outline of my progress and operations in surveying the coast line from that river to the mouth of Ked
Iliver, where I closed the survey. Hut before resuming the narrative of my proceedings, it would
perhaps be ns well to give a short recapitulation of the character and general topograj)liy of the west
coast of the lake between the Main Saskatchewan and the Little Saskatchewan.

The distance from the month of the Main to the mouth of the Little Saskatchewan by our track along
the coast, or by the course that canoes or row boats would be likely to pursue, is about 140 miles ; but
the distance by the coast line, embracing every sinuosity of the shore, is much greater.

The most prominent feature in the line of coast is the great headland, Cape Kitchinashi. This
immense promontory begins to stretch out into the lake in u direction a few degrees north of ca.st, about
1.5 ;niles south of the .Saskatchewan. Its extreme ))oint is about 24< miles in an air line from the general
line of the coast, and its width varies from three to six miles and upwards; its neck is indented by
.several ileep bays, some of which could be used as harlwurs or roadsteads. The formation of the caii'e
is peculiar ; it is very low and flat on the north side, while on its southern boundary the coast is
comparatively high and abrupt. Its northern side consists of a series of marshes separated from the lake
by a narrow sand beach ; flie>e marshes grailually blending ito a tamarack and spruce swamp. Aloii"
the south side of the eape there is a eontinuous escarpment of light-coloured clay, 25—10 feet hii{li,
yet even on the top of these high banks ihe character of the land is of the poorest description, being
nothing bill a " niuskei; " or mossy swuiiip, cunlaining a thin growth of very scrubby tamarack and
.spruce, covered with drooping moss.

The exireiiiity or apex of tlu' promontory is a very low ond broad sand beach, covered with water-
worn boulders; the lake is also doited with boulders u long way out from the shore, there being a sand-
bar or conliniiation of the point under water, on which they rest. From the size and posilimi of the
cape, and the dangerous shoals exteiKhng out from it, if beacons or lighthouses are ever required on the
lake tor the .safely and convenience of shipping, no more suitable place could be selected for the erection
of one than here.

The coast north-west of the cape, as already stated, is very low, and much broken by deep and
nurrow bays.

l'"roin t'ajie Kitchinashi to the Little Saskatchewan the coast trends generally to the south-east.
Between these points limeslone is ex|)osed in six places. The exposures are the precipitous extremities
of ridges, forming points at intervals along the coast. The stratiticatioii in every instance is horizontal,
but the escarpments vary in height above the lake; they increase in altitude" from four to 11 (eet
towards till: south. These ridges an' generally woodid with aspen and other deciduous trees, and the
swumps intervening are linibere<l with lainarnck and spruce; some of the spruce near the coast are
pretty large. Between the ridges low sand btaches extend along the const. These beaches separate
ponds nnd open marshes, averaging from a quarter to one mile wide, from the lake ; in the rear of ilic
marshes is the great tamarack and spruce swamp, or " muskeg."

The tributary streams in this part of the coast are not numerous, and they are generally of no
grent si/e. The chief are the Gull Kgg Rivers or the Two Uivers, the War I'ath River, .lumping
River, and one or two others without name; they ore not in themselves large, but their estuaries migh't
be available as harbours lor (Mints.

ihe character <if the country exhibited on the coast extends almost an unlimited distance back :
indeed the Indians re|Mirt the whole of the country between Lake Winnipeg and Lake Winnipego-sis
us one vast « muskeg" the great moose hunting grounds «)f the Swampys.

Although the cimntiy here ileserilicd is quite unfit for agricultural purposes, it is not altogether
valueless; there are huge areas of go<iil timber ahuig the eoasi, available lor liiel, and the limeMon*!
cropping out ut the various points is well ada|)ted lor buihling.

M 2

I '1

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

;i :!

1 I

Being without a guide, I got one of the Little Saskatchewan Indians to draw me n mop oF the lake
betncei) Biishkega Islnnds niid Ctrassy Narrows, showing tiie traverses and rotitc to l)e taken between
tliu iiilaiuls in order to cross the greiit iirnis of tlio hike, Fislicr Hay and Washow liny. Tliis Indian
chart was of great service- to us ; tlic best and most rcci-nt maps of tiie lake to wliicli I liad access being
so iiicorri'ct : on tiieni tiio general contour of the const nortii of tiio Little iSiiskatvhewan is tolerably welt
delineated, but to the coast north and south of the Dog's Hi'nd Straits they bear very little resemblance;
the large islands are omitted altogether, and the Great Black Island is represented as forming the
extremity of n promontory on the mainland between two bays.

From the beginning our canoe was very wenk, the bork being of the poorest description and l)adly
put toi.'ether ; and having now become qnile frail, I tried to barter with one of the Indians for a new
and stronger one ; but, taking advantage of our situation, he placed upon it a much greater value
tlinii I felt inclined to give. Looking upon our canoe as worthless, hu wanted in addition to it "it, ster-
ling, and one of my blankets. Considering this an unconscionable price, we determined upon venturing
to perform the remainder of the journey with the battered canoe we had.

Having made sections of the river, and cNamined the country bordering the Little Saskatchewan,
we lilt it on the 31st of August; hut were detained the greater part of the day on a point only a few
miles IVoni the mouth of the river, by uufavourablu wind and in consequence of the sickne>s of Louis,
our steersman ; who, being a pretty old man, was disabled from over exertion in the storm on Sunday.

On the 1st of September, while sailing with a side wind across the mouth of a deep bay, in which
there was rather u heavy sea rolling, a large swell broke over us throwing in a great deal of water; the
water gut into the compass box, and even my watch in my waistcoat pocket, stopping it at once ; and it
was some time alter elVecliug a landing and drying it out before I could get it to go again. Having to
contend the remaiiuler of the day with opposing winds, we were quite worn out when we camped about
sunset.

From the evening of the 1st September until the morning of the .5th we vere wiiulbomid on a low
marshy puint on the north-east side of the great buy into which the Little Saskatchewan empties. I'he
spot on which we were imprisoned is very much circumscribed ; lieing a narrow sand beach, about a
chain in Irtiglh, and hounded on three sides by an e.\tensive marsh. During the three days that the
storm lasted, the wiml blew a hurrieune from llie N.N'.W., raising a tremendous sea on the lake ; and
the surf heating along the shore, washed away several yards of the sanil heacli on which we were
encamped. Tiie wenlher was clear die first day, and I occupied myself in determining the correct time,
and tlie variation of the compass. C)n the seciuul and third ilays it rained almo.st incessantly, and it
was ihiM) liir the first lime on our voyage that we really felt the privations of hiuiger ; we had no flour
from the time we lel't the main Saskatchewan, and our whole slock of provisions was luiw reduced to a
lew pounds of rather mouldy pemieun, which 1 determined to eke out as long as possible, as we were
still a great distance IVoin Ued itivcr (upwards of 170 miles by the enuue route) ; atul with that olijecl
ill view we made it a rule to cat only one meal a day while we were windhound, unless we were fortiinale
enough to procure some additional liiod, in the slia|H! of wild fowl or other animul.s. We succeeded in
getting a gray gull on the second day, on which we made an excellent repast.

On the morning of the .jili. just before we slarteil, an Indian and family from the Dog's Head came
to lis; they lia<l been windboniid siven days on an island not far from wliere we were; lliey said ihev
never saw sncb a contiiiiiKus sU('e("<sion of winds and sliirms on the lake belbre ; and inlbrnied us that
a fiieman's boat which passed <luriiig the niulit had been ;<!> ilays between Kid Uiver anil the
Saskaleliewaii, a distance that has lieiii accoiiiplislied hy a boat, with a liivonriible wind in three days.
Af'ier bartering with this Indian for a siiinll viiihnh offish peuiican, (dried lisli pounded and mixed wiili
sturgeon oil.) We proceeded on our journey, glad to get away from the dreary spot. Although there
was still a heavy retarding ground-sivcll on the lake, we paddled many miles before halting. On
sti'P|)iiig to cook breakfist we were :;reatly disappointed to lind that the fish pemican which I was so
lliaiiklul to get, was nearly all rotten, there being oidy a small pirtion on the top that could be eaten,
the remainder bad to he thrown away.

A contrary wind frediened up again about noon, but we continued struggling against it. until in
attempting to round a point we were completely <lriven back, and narrowly escaped liiimdering among
the liu;;e swells and breakers that dashed high over the boulders extending out from the beach ; we
saved the canoe by jumping into the surf and throwing the lading rapidly a-.hore. As soon as we got
everything out of the reach of the waves that were dashing their spray over the (hipping shingle beach
into llie swamp beliiiid, 1 sent Wigwam oil' into the marshes to try to procure us some (iiod. .Not
making his appearance at night-l'all, I despatched Louis in search of him; they both retiniied very late,
liaviiig wandered many miles along the coast, but brought notliii.g with them, l^ouis altribute<l Wig-
wam's want of success to the fact of his bunting on Sunday. U hile they were gi.ue I gathered some
green cranberries in the marsh, and with them and a little pemican I made a kind of snup of which we
jiaitodU anil lay down to rest.

Eniliaikiiig at daylight on the (illi we reached the Cat Htnd nt 2 p.m., after a hard paddle again.st
an adverse wiiiil and niiigh sea. On the boat voyage npiin which I subscipieiitly iiccompaiiied you wu
passid this bold headland in the iiiglit. I may, thereloie, give a description of its hading leatures.
It consists (il a piipeiidicnlar cscarpiiieiit of biill'-coloured limestone in massive hori/oiital layers, the
top strata ovtihaiiging the base; the summit of the rock is 30 to 3;") f< et above the lake, and is covered
with drift and boulders to the de|ith of three leet. on which grow scrubby poplar, spruce, and tamarack.
'I'lie watir is <)uite deep up to the foot of the clilli and as no laiiding can tlierelore be eflected, I was
unable to make .i miiiiitr examination ol the rock. There is a scries of low, arched caverns in the base
ef the cliir ill wliicli ilir wavis and swells washing to and fru make a singular hollow noise, and for iliid
re.isi.ii the Indiana think it is the .ihude of a manilou.

m \

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

ap of the lake
token between
This Indian
id access being
» tolerably well
c resemblance;
ts turming the

ion nnd bndly
ians for a new
greater value
n to it 2/. stcr-
iipon venturing

Saskntcliewan,
:)int only a few
inuKS of Louis,
m on Sunday.
> bay, in which
I of water ; the
It once ; and it
in. lliiviiig to
i camped about

ound on a low

empties. I'he

beach, iibont a

days that the

I he lake ; and

which we were

le correct time,

I'ssiuitly, and it

ve had no tlour

iv reduced to a

le, 11* we were

villi tiiut object

were fortmiiile

e succeeded in

;'s Head came
lliey said they
brtiied us tliiil
Kiver and the
ill llirie days,
nd mixed with
Vltlioiigb there
lialtiii>;. (Jn
ivliich 1 was so
juld be eaten,

ivt it. untd in
ideriiig among
the bench ; we
iooii as we <;ot
[ sliiii;;le beach
lie liiod. Not
rued very lale,
tribiited Wig-
•;atliercd some
ip of wiiich we

paddle a<>a:iist
ipaiiii'd you we

uliiig lealiire.s.
ital layers, the

and is covered

and tamarack.

edecled, 1 was
iriis ill tlie base
se, and lor iIim

Some of the Swampys say Cat Head is so named because an Indian hunter was killed there by
falling over tlie precipice while chasing a wild-cat or lynx. The profile of the upper, or over-hanging
portion of the cliff*, bears n singular resemblance to the "cat-head" of a ship.

The wind becoming more fuul wc were compelled to camp on a point about a mile and a half south-
east of the Cat Head, at the extremity of the north-western side of Kinwow (Long) Bay.

During the next day (7th September) the wind blew hard from the east, and the waves on the lake
rolled mountains high, so that we could not venture]out, having a long traverse before us. The narrow

Eoint or peninsula upon which we were detained is of a peculiar character, consisting of a straight
arrier or ridge of boulders about three-quarter miles long, running at right angles to the coast, and
connecting it with a .small area or island of limestone a few feet high ; this barrier resembles very much
a railway embankment, or a rip rap breakwater ; although it is 20 to 2!i feet high, the waves wash over
it during the great storms on the lake in the fall of the year.

The morning of the 6di dawned, but there still seemed to be little chance of our getting off', and our
prospects now began to look cheerless enough ; we had but a handful of peinicaii and one charge of
amnuinition left ; while deliberating whether to eat the last remnant of our food^ a bald-headed eagle
came wheeling in great circles over us ; he poised himself for an instant as if about to descend upon his
prey, when he was Ibrtunatcly brought down with our last charge of shot. He proved to be a large
bird with magnificent plumage; a Cree or Blackfoot would have given a good horse for his wings or
tail. By eating nearly every portion of the animal, except his feathers, wc managed to make him
serve for two or thi'ee meals.

The wind nuHlerated sufficiently at last to permit us to resume our journey, but we hod a fatisjuing
paddle for two hours in crossing Kinwow Hay. The extremity of this long arm of the lake was below
our horizon, and the wind came sweeping out of it in great squalls. The wind veered round to the
east and stopped us again about noon at the Wicked Point, where wc spent the afternoon in drying our
clothes and blankets, and gathering sand cherries, on which we supped.

10th September. — The wind fell and allowed us to reach Pike Head yesterday morning. We at
once ascended the Pike or .lack Fish River to ihc '' basket " or weir erected across it by tlic Indians,
about half a mile from its mouth ; for the purpose of procuring fish. The basket w.is tnnch broken,
and when we arrived was covered with turkey buzzards waiting to pounce or any fish that might get
entangled in its nieshes. By repairing the basket and watching it all night we caught an abundance of
lisli of lour species, viz. : golil-eyes, wall-eyed pike, suckers, and pike. It rained without intermission
during the day, and as the wind cnnliniied nnfavouiable we remained at the basket gutting fish to take
with us.

\Vv generally boiled our fish, making use of the litpior in which they were cotiked as n substitute for
tea ; and having succeeded in capturing a .small badger by pouring water into his burrow, we got
sulHcieiit fat or oil to enable us to have fried lisli occasionally.

'I'iie iiveragL width of the Pike River is about a chain, and its depth about five feet, with a moderate
curri'iit ; its banks, half a mile from its month, are of light-coloured clay five to ten feet higli, and
covered witli a rich daik mould supporting a thick growth of aspen, spruce, tamarack, bircli, anil balsam.
Near tiic basket llii'ie is an old log house, formerly a missionary station, but now abandoned. When
the Indians come to tisli here they cut up tlie fioorin;^ and timber of this house for fuel instead of
availing tlieiiisilvrs of its shelter.

I lib Septeinlier. — Having stowed away ns many fish as we could find room for in the canoe, we left
the .lack I'Vli River in tiie morning, and being favoured with a loir wind sailed without stoppini; till
dark, when we camped on a small island in the entrance to Fisher Hay. On Sunday, the I'JtIi, we bail
to eiicoiinli'r a brisk contrary wind from the south ; but, by working l(i hours against it and iiiakiiii;
.some wide traverses between the islands, we succeeded in reaching the point opposite Dog's Head, .it the
beginning of the narrows, before night set in.

No opportunity being afforded you for exploring the east coast of the lake while passing through the
straits or narrows about 10 days alter this, I may give some of its characteristics at those points where
we laiuU'd to examine il. 'I'he east coast, from the Dog's Head to where wv left it to cross to (irind-
stone Point, consists of a succession of knolls or low domes of granite and gneiss rising "enerallv ci"ht
to ten feet above the water, am' clothed on their fianks witli a scrnbliy growth tif timber, "cliieffv
Baiiksian pine, spruce, and a few aspen ; there are, generally, ponds and swamps between the granite
kimlls and the coast line is much lirokeii by deep inlets and small well sheltered bays, formiii"
excellent liinbours and coves for boats. 'I'he east coast, north and south of the straits, is descrilied ii<
being siinil.ir to this; abounding in harbours, and for this reason it is the route by wbii^h boats
invariably no to York Factory, and generally to the Saskatchewan. Opposite the mouth of Great
Washow (Deep) Bay there is an inlet or passage called Loon's Strail.s, formerly a canoe route of the
old North West Company.

liy starting at daylight and sailing along the can coast of the lake on the I3lh,we gut in sight ofth'!
Cirindstone Point about 2 p.m., when we set out on a longer and more dangerous traverse than anv we
had yet accomplished. We bad to cross from the cast coast of the lake to the Cirindstone I'.iiiit on
the west coast, a distance of about 12 miles. From the shape of the lake, with its many deep and liroad
bays this great traverse is unavoidable. When we started from the east side of the lake, the \\\<r\\
e.warpment of rock forming the point seemeil quite low and blue in the distance. By spreading ii
blanket we were assisted for a while by a side wind ; but the wind soon changed and I're.sheiied up, so
that we had to lower sail and ply our paddles with all our strength until reaching the point nearly four
hours I'rom the time we lelt tlie east shore. Taking advantage of a little moonlight, wliich enabled us
to coast along a straight shore after dark, we did not stop to camp till arriving at the Little Grnidsumu
Point.

M 3

M REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND ;,

By making nn cnrly itnrt on the 14th, an>.' creeping along in the nhelter of the land, we were
enabled to ilinu ut Giuiisy Nnrrowa. Although the (liivour of our fiah hiid not iinprovvd Rinco leaving
Pikv Kiver, wu had nlwavs kt'cn appetites, and wvrv now by no nieiins fiiklidiiuiH, ijuiliu); from OrafiHy
Nanow.s acrosit a bay into wliicli \Vhito Mud Kiver eniplii's, we arrived at the Sandy Uar a little utler
dark and caniprd.

\M\ Stptember. — The wind and weather beinj; favourable to-day, by working 15J hours we reached
the rnnrsli near the tnoiitli of Ited River about dark. VVe found an Indian encamped on the sand
iK-acli hunting tb" ducks which are in countless numl)ers in these mar!<hen at this Keason. He had
killed l(l(» " slock " thicks during the day, anil generously gove us a liln-rai supply ; had it not liceu for
this hospitable Indian wc should have been badly off, an we ate our hint fish at the Sandy Hnr in the
morning.

Kith September. — Reaching the Stone Fort about dark, and procuring a horse there, I was enabled
to join you in the Red Hirer S«'ttlenient at II p.m., after a canoe voyage of 18 days in all; nine of
which were occupied in deNceiiding from the Kibow of the South liranch of the Saskatchewan to Fort
li la Corne, 11 from thence to the mouth of the Saskatchewan, and 25 days in traversing Luke
Winnipeg.

Tlie whole distance travelled and explored in canoe is over tHO miles, (iOO of which lieing down the
Saskatchewan and 'MO miles open lake navigation. In |)erforming this latter part of the journey wifh
a little frail canoe, heavily laden, we were completely windhound for I'i days, and had to contend
nearly all the time we were uuiving with boisterous bead winds, foul weather, and a hand to mouth
sii-lenMiKc, frequently wiilajut food. This will, in some measure, account lor the slow rate of jirogress
We iwi»illinL;ly made tbioiigh Lake Winnipeg, I should much regret were it to be sup|Hised that the
tardy progress of this expeililion was at all owing to the inelhcieucy of the two men — NN'igwam C'ullin
and .lames Louis — you were pleased to appoint to iieconipany me ; and must take this o|)prutunily of
bearing testimony to their unwearied labour, patient emlnrauee, and unllinching <levolii>n under a series
of trying circumstances. Their conduct while they were my companions, for nearly two months, wag
bcVDiid all prai.se; anil they sustained privations, liardships, and risks of no ortliuary description
witlioiit a murmur.

I am, &c.

To II. V. Hind, Lsq., (Signed) JOHN FLKMING.

In charge of the Assinnibuiiie and Sa.skutchewan Exploring Expedition.

CHAPTER Vlll.

RED niVKII SK'ITI.KMENT TO THE MOUTH OF THE LITl'LE SASKATCHEWAN,
l.\ A FHEI(;HTtll's IIOAT.

Mouth ot Ui'd Itiver — Aurora — Wentlur Sipns — Ciiuanel al Mouth uf Hed Kiver — St(irm — Character of
llic South Coast of Lake Winnipe); — New Luiid — West Coast — Conferva- — The Willow Ulanils — Clay
Clill'> — (inocl l.anil^Driiiik<n Ifiver — Aurora — Koek Kxposure^Dicr Isluiui — Seetion on — Kijuivaliut
(if the Clia/y liiruMtloii — I'ishih); (jrouiul — Miskeiia — (iriiiilstune Point — Kev. Mr. Ilrocjkiii); — Koeks nl'
(irindslone I'oini — The Little (irindstonu I'liim. — lCa.st Coast of Lake Wiiniipen — I'uak Island — billow
(lelin — Coast near Doj;'* Head — Liiuestoae Cave I'olut — Fissured lioeks — Jack I'isli ItiKr — I'lshir lluy —
'J'lie Cat Head — Little Saskatehcwan Bay — Last Coast of Lake W innipeg — Din.casiona ol' Lake Wiuiii]ieg.

A fortnight was occupied at 'he Settlement in writing reports and making preparations for u voyage
throiigli Luke Winnipeg, the Little Suskatchewan Kiver, and Luke Manitobnii to the .Suit Itegion, on
the shores of \\'innipego-.sis Lake. Mr. Dickinson pre|)ured for an exjiloratioii of the country between
the Lake of the Woods and Red River, and between the Assinniboine and the 4t)th parallel, lioth
parlies wore ready by the IMlh, and ut noon started on their respective routes.

•Mr. Fleming and 1, taking advantage of a fair wind, reached a point ulxiut seven miles below the
Iniilari .Seltleinenl, whore we campdi. On the following morning the temperature of the air at sunrise
was G:\°, of the river iii)'. We readied the mouth of river at 10 u.ni , and liastened to ovuil ourselves
of u .south-east wind just hegiiiiiin;{ to rise. Last niyht the aurora was very beautiful, and extended
far beyond the zeiiilli, leading the voyageurs to predict a windy day. The notion prevails with tlieni
that wlioii the aurora is low the following day will be culm ; wiien high, stormy. 'I he temperature of
the moulli of the river was i>'J", and of the open lake, 1^ mile from shore, ."jb^". Rain commenced us
soon as we wore fairly in the lake, the wind suddenly chopped round to the north, driving u dense liig
helori! it, and in a few minutes enveloped us in a misty shower. The steersman instantly turned about
and made for the mouth of the river, there being no harbour nearer than the W illow Islands, ut least
15 miles distant. The breeze rapidly increased lo a gale ns we regained culm water inside the bur at
the mouth of Red Kiver.

The wind subsided about '^ p.m., and a shot heard in a direction due rauth induced some of the
voyageurs to exclaim that the wind would soon come from that direction, according to an impression
common among these excellent observerB and interpreters of "signs' that u shot heard nguinst the
wind is a good omen. Rut our steersman placed more faith in the aurora, and thought we had not
" taken all the wind out of it yet." The sky having a threatening appearance, we determined to camp.

There ure four mouths to lied River, and the channel we had entered was the main outlet; the
breadth of the channel varies from 20 to 28 feet, and on cither side tUvU^ - rapidly from tour to
eighteen feet of water. At 3 p.m., when juist on the point ot starting, one of the voyugeurs suggested

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

tlint we f hould wnit for ii few minutes longer ns he hnd observed the water of the lake oominft in nt the
nidiitii i)f the riv»T, Mid tlionglit tliut the wind would soon hlov strong from the north, altlii)ii<;l< »t the
time till- sky was clear ami a calm provHilcd. In lens than half an hour a fresh northerly brefzc spnuifj
np, send appeared diiflinff l)eforc it, and the waters of the lake flowed rapidly up the river into the vast
marches which extend for many miles iidnnd nt the southern extremity of Lake VVinnipef,'. 'I'he
weatlier at thin season of the year is very changeable, ami renders boat navigation of this lake rntlicr
hazardous. In anticipation of a storm, we made ourselves as comfortable as cireumsinnces would permit
'III a low spit of sand, with the lake before m, the river on our lefl hand, and interminable marshes cast
and south of us.

Sept. 20th.— Soon after sunset last night the breeze from the north rose into a gale; tiie water of
tiie lake ran like a rapid up the river channel into the swamps, ami a terrific swell soon set in from the
lake, breaking upon Ow sandy beach with a stunning noise. The water rose to within six inches of the
level of the spii on which oiii'tinl was pitched and tlireatened every instant to submirge it. At 10 p.m.,
the ga!e was at its height, and ns we sat upon a stranded trunk oi' a tree, looking out upon the lake, a
truly magnificent scene lay before us. Huge crested breakers covered the lake as far as we could sec
through llir gloom, ligliting up the const with long glistening streaks of white foam. The noise was so
overpowering that we had great difficulty in hearing one another speak; the waves broke over the
narrow spit which formed the low bank of the river where our boat was moored and the tent pitched ;
our eiiiiip ground was reduced to a strip of sand eight yards broad and .seven inches above the river on
one side, with overflowing swamps on the other; if the storm had continued half an hour longer we
slioiiid have lieeii compelled to take to the boat and drift into the reeds, at the risk of being stranded
when ihe gale sniisiiled and the water retired from the marshes into the lake.

For nianv miles the .south coast of Lake Winnipeg consists of alternate strips of sand sustaining
willows, witii marslies in the rear running parallel to the coast line. Some of these sanil slrip.-< show
many vears of diirution when well protected by drift timber, others are of recent origin, clear and b:ire,
enclosing ponds in which riislics are only just lieginiiiiig to show themselves. They are the records of
the progress made by new land in its invasion ol the lake nt and near the mouth of lied River. A
norllierlv gale throws up a bar or beach about 100 yards from the main shore. On the new
bench drilled timber nceiinnilalcs, and in process of time becomes consolidated by the gravel and sand
which is washed between the logs. Willows soon grow on the new soil thus formed, and bind ihc
whole into a firm beach with a marsh in the rear. A heavy gale may sweep the new land away or
throw lip another beach about 100 yards in advance of it, on which the process li' con.solidation
is renewed, lua' ages past this work of constriietion and destruction has boen greatly in favour of llic
former. Hence it arises that, with the exception of the newly lormed spit nt the inoulh'of the river,
there is no nccessilile camping ground for several miles up the stream; marshes surrounding the spils
or old belches on which the willows grow, and extending in all directions ns far as the eye can reach.

We employed ourselves during our detention in examining the coast, sounding the river, and in
shodtiiii; and (ishiiig. Our sporting brought ns only six duck, three plover, and three large pike. The
flesh of the pike was of a delicate salmon colour, more like that of the salmon trout of the Canadian
lakes than of the common pike.

Sept. 21 — We rose at 4 a.m., and in half an hour were <•« mute, the morning just beginning to
dawn : ti inperatiire ol the air at sunrise, .jl", of lake o!)°. Tlie west coast for a few miles is elevated
IViuii live to six feet above the lake, here anil there a low lieacli of limestone gravel, sand, and a lew granite
boulders, is fringed with a belt of tall nspens which grow wiiliin '20 feet of the water's edge, liehiiid
the belt of aspen is a marsh, then another belt of aspens followed by a marsh. This succession con-
tinues f<ir a distance of about three miles betbre good hind supporting henvy aspens is to be lound in
large areas. Near to the spot where we breakfasted an excellent illustration of the prevailing character
of llie west const thus far occurs. A sandy bench covered with shingle had .separated a former bay
from the main body of the lake. On this bench, which was not 20 feet broad, or more than five alaive
the lake level, willows, dogwood, and grasses were growing ; n large pond lay inside, fringed with rushes ;
it was tenanled by hosts of duck. In the rear of this pond a narrow strip of land, clothed with nspeii,
separated a marsh from it, which had doubtless once been a bay of the lake, then a pond, and finally
a marsh.

At 11 a.m. a vast quantity of confervas; appeared in clusters on the surface of the lake, resembling in
every particular a similar organism noticed in extraordinary profusion on the Lake of the Woods in
August IS.'iT. The sudden appearance of this " weed" indicated a calm, according to the expeiience
olonr voyageuis. A calm did occur for a short time, soon, however, followed by rain in the iiorlli,
which fortunately did not reach us. Inland ponds cut off from the lake by low beaches appear as far
OS the Willow Islands, where we arriveil in the alternoon ; they were found to consist of a few small
sandy areas and one long iinrrow strip of sniul mid gravel, slietehing into the lake in an easterly direc-
tion, and sepnrated from the shore by a narrow channel. The Islands are fast wearing away, and in
the memory of some of the voyngeur.s, were covered ten years since with willows, poplar, and a {'vw
spruce. They have probably alFordcd much of the material for the forinaliun of the beaches which have
cut oil' portions of the lake on the south-west coast, the materials being drifted olong the shore by llio
long waves which every breeze from the north, or a northerly direction creates. The depth of water
near the coast is very small ; soundings showed 2i> feet water one mile north of Willow Lslaiul, the
deepest part yet ob.servcd.

In the afterniion I landed to examine some cliffs of clay which appear about 23 miles from the
month of the river. They were 16 feet in altitude, and exposeil a clean surface of stratilied marl,
reposing on a brownish black clay. The stratification was in thin horizontal layer.s, easily detached
one from the other. The brownish black clay showed a very tenacious character, so much so that it
was very dilBcult to break off" wiili the hand masses larger than 10 or 12 cubic inches in any other

M 4

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

clirectiun tlinn tliat of the pluiic of Ktriitiikiitioii. It vim wniii l)y tliii nctiuii of tlin wiivcn into n great
variety ol tiinns, iiiul oti tliu heiidi lay lai'^c iiiiiiiIjt'iK ol' riiniiilc'il, dv.il, spluToiiliil or eirciilar r<iriiiii,
from iiiu' foot in length inul thrru inches in diameter to sniiill sphi rieal lioilie>i nl' ilie mm o( |ieii<i. They
were covered with minute pehhlet* or with Hand, and when hnikeii Hhowed n niieleiii) of the u>\\^]\ clay
which had assumed ilii regular liirm liy constant rolling on the hench. No orgnnie remains were lound,
l>ut the ini|iressu)ii conveyed liy the aspect ol'tlie clay unti the nuirl by which it was capiwd satisfied mu
that it was of the suiiie age ai the clay mid murly sidxtraluni of the lied River and Assinniboiiio
Prairies.

The timber in the forest consisted of aspens and hirch, with a few oak, elm, and ash. Our steers-
man, who knew the country well, informed me tluit gomi land, on which large timber grew, ilid not
extend more than one mile from the lake. It is succeeded by spruce and tanmrac marshes, thi.' irers
being of dwarfish dimensinns. The afternoon was calm and warm, so far verifving the predielions of
our voyageurs, which lliey had based on the sudden ap|M?arance of the " weed " in the morning.

Sept. 22iid. — Last night was cold, calm, and lieuulitui, the thermometer fell to :!(>" at 10 p.m., and to
the freezing point lieibre daybreak; Donati's comet shone a fine eelesliid object, and with a iiioon,iiearly
i'uli, and a splendid aurora distinctly visible nolwitlislaiiding the brightness of ihe moon, the heaveUH
pro'eiited a very beautiful spectacle. We camped near the mouth of Drunken lliver, a small stream
which would make an excellent boat harbour if widened at its outlet. 'I'lie clay elil1''< and marl ills.
appeared bclbre we arrived at t)ur camping place ; the shore again consists of a U'acli, with a swamp
or marsh, fringed with small spruce and tamaruc in the rear. I arousi'd the men nt V a.m. 1 he
aurora nt that hour was a splendid object, and appeared in the form of sudden (lushes of low arcs of
li^hl, eumpiete from east to west, rising in vast waves from one constant luminous b.i.se, a lew degrei s
above tile hori/on. The vast waves of pale light followed one another with great rapiiiily and
regularity for many niiniites together.

A strong westerly bree/.e early this morning soon enabled us to reach the Sandy liars, 1 1. miles from
Drunken lliver, and then llie Grassy Narrows, a distanee of .seven miles. Itiilb of tiiese points are
low, saiuly, and gravelly peninsulas, sircteliing out into the lake opposile lo Itig iliack Island. The
first e.\|)iisure of limeslone was seen on a small island opposite llig lilaek Island, which we n.imed
Ciuano Islanil. It dippeil very slightly to the touth-west. A seareli for fossils was fruilltss; but on
Dig Black Island, and those adjacent to it, near the Little drindstone I'oiut, limestone appi ars in tlie
form of low mural dills on the west sliores, which were alone seen. This limestone is a continuatiuii
of a line exposure afterwards fouiul on Deer Island, where we ariived at 1 p.m.

The foliuwing section occurs on Deer Island.

Lake level.

Sliingle beach (limestone).

No. 1. Four li'et of dark-green argillo-nrenuceous .shale, with thin layers of sandstorc of utievin
thickness. Kucoids Very abundoiit in ihe sanilstone. The wenlliered saiulslone is reddish broivn; ficsli
surfaces are white or gray. White iron ]iyrites, assimilating the forms of di>ks, spheroids, and shells,
occurs in the sandstone.

No. '2, In many respects like the foinu'r; the saiulslone layers are from one to four inches in lliJck-
liess, and predominale over llie shaly portions. Its tliiekness is six fett. The chiiracler of these
furmulioiis (I and '2) is very variable ; the green argillaceous portion sometiines predominates, and
occasionally the sandstone.

No. 3. Ten Ret of sandstone, with green b'inds of a soft argillaceous rock, from one ipitirler lo four
inches in thickness. The sandstone ofien white, but generally red. A persistent gieen band, a few
inches thick, tilled with obscure forms rcsendjjing fueuids, is very characteristic. The reil-coloured
sandstone is often soft and friable, the white Irequently embodied in the red. Doth red and while
contain obscure organic forms. The green patches which are found throughout the sandstone contain
imple^siorls of lueoids. An Orthoceratite was found in the sundslone. In some parts ol the exposure
on Deer Island the sandstone layers are much harder, although partaking of the characters already
described. When thus hard the white |)orlion is extremely brilhani, of a pure while, and very silieious.
It would form an excellent material for tiie inunuliicture of glass. Forms coloured brown often
pervade the white sandstone, and appear to resemble fucoids and corals, replaced by brown ochreous
sand.

No. 4. F^ighteeii feet of limestone, perfectly horizontal, very hard, and breaking oil' the clilF where
the soft sanilstone has been weathered away in huge rhombuidul slabs, eight to twenty-five feet in
diameter and four to ten inches thick.

The surface of the limestone shows silicified shells and corals. Among the shells an Orthocrras nine
inches in diameter was seen, with fossils belonging to the genera llhynconflla and Titradium, This
formation is e(|uivalent to the Cliazy of New York and Canada, and consequently lies near the base of
the Lower Silurian .system.

In the shingle immediately below the clifT many fine Orthoceratitcs were found, with a large
Maclurca and C'atcnijiora eschiiroide.t*

Limestone appears for some miles on die west coast, .south of Big Grindstone Point where we
arrived in the evening. This part of Lake Winnipeg is very beautiful, resembling, in many pleasing
jiarticulars, the scenery on Lake ijiiucoe towards the Narrows, with wooded islands rising from the
lake in clusters and rows. Between Grindstone Point and Deer Island the lead showed (il) feet of
water. It is the great fishing-ground of some of the bands of Indians, who make this part of the lake
their wintering place. White iisli are very abundant, and caught by the Indians in large numbers;

* I'ur un (^nuinL'rulluii uf U)4! foshiU fruni this uiid utiK-r localitieti, in iliu ri'i^ion about I.nku Winnijivg, Minitobali, &c., Uic reader
it referred to llie eliapter by £. ]3illJiigs, hni,, I^alwuiilulogut to Uie Canadian Geological SuiTCiy. ,

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

llieir flavour ii not no fliio us tlioie of Lnke Manitohnli oi- of the >vU'App«llo Lake«. Sturgeon are
alio numerouR, ami, nccordiiift to iliu Iwlicl' of tliu iiiiHurubls native* wliu flsiti here during; the winter,
the deep piirt of tliu Inku ia their gruiit place of ri-iiort nt thiit puricxl ol' the year, wliure they lie with
Mii-kc-na, the chief of the tUhes, in tliu •uiiihern portion «)!' .Lokc Winiiipe((.

Lonufcllow allutlcg to the aaniu au|KTtlitioii held by Lake Hu|)crior Indians, in thu song of " Hiuwntha,"
where lie niiikes hii hero go—

"Forth upon thu Gutclio liiimoi',

On thii Slilnini; lllg-Scii-Wiiter,

With hix flshing-linu of cudiii'—

Of tfio twiitod burk of cedar —

Forth to riUch tlio KturKi'oti Nulimn,

NiHhL'-Nnhmn, King of l'"i»lieii,

In hi.< hirch canott cxullitiK ;

All alonii went Uiawatlm."

M'l- nppronchcil Grinilstoiic Point after dark, and olwervi-d a ciunp.fiie on the bench, with a
freiKhtir* iNiiit close in Hliorc. It belonj^cd to the Uev. Mr. llrookin^ niid hit fiiniily, who were return-
ill); to Kossvillo from Itfd Uivnr. Mr, Hrouking is n M't'sk-ynn iniHsioniiry, for some years u resident
in ltu|H-ri'ii Lnnd, and ciiKngcd in the unthankful labour of iitteniptiiig to chriiitiaiiize the Indians. He
linil IraVL'lJpd from thu head of Ltiku Winnipejj to Red llivcr Sctlloinent, to obtain medical advice for
Mrs. Ilrooking, who was very unwell. Our interview was short — the voyagenrs in Mr. Hrookini^'s
boat being iinxious to take advantage of a fair wind wliii-li had jn.st arisen, As soon as supper was
ended lliey embarked, uiid proceeded by moonlight on their hmely journey. IIu wos iiO days in coming
from Norway House lo Hcd River, having been kept back by contrary winds. His prospccta of tra-
vei-sing the lake rapidly were now more favourable, as the south wind which prevailed wuuUI soon drive
n freigliter's Iwat to Norway House

September 23i'd. — The rocks at (irinditone I'oint, ulxitit si.x miles north of Deer Island, are similar to
those already described in the previous section. Being fiirllier north the exposure is higher, and the
KundstoiK' bands more fully shown, lleiieath No. I of Deer Island, a hard, yellow, compact sandstone
appears, and is exposed for a space of four feet above the level »if tiie water. Strata No. 1 and No. 2
of Deer Klaiul appear in a slightly dilferent l()rni here: the sund.stone bands arc thicker; the green
shnly portion more distinct as a separate band, and two feet thick ; while above the hard yellow sand,
stone, the base of No. I appears in the form of a purple band of very soft sandstone, about ono foot in
thickness, containing a vast number ui' ulaiiis, which seem to liavc been occasioned by fucoids.

At Little Grindstone I'oint, the limestone No. 4 of Deer Island comes to the water's edge. The
sandstone No. ii is just below its level. Little UriiuKtono I'oint is a little more than seven miles
south-west of Big Grindstone Toiut, and the altitude of the limestone, where it touches the sandstone at
the last-named place, is alxiut 'J'> feet, which would give an inclination of a sectional exposure in a
south-westerly direction of alxiut three feet in the mile. It appeared, however, to have a slight westerly
dip, showing the true dip lo be a i'cw degrees more to the west than south-west, as was afterwards a.scer-
taiiied. In the limestone, turbinated shells are numerous, witli Ortluweras of large dimonsions. Thu
scenery is attractive, and, in a geological point of view, eniinenlly interesting. The opposite coast is
formed of the uiifossiliferous rocks belonging to the great Laiireiitian formation, which extends from
Labrador to the Arctic Ocean. Within tln-ee miles of Grindstone I'oint, islands of this important for-
mation occur a short distance in advance of llic east coast, whicli is u holly composed of it.

The depth of Lake NVinriiiieg ininiediately opposite Grindstone I'oint is IS feet. A storm afforded
us another opportunity of examining the fo.ssilil'erous rocks of this locality, for no sooner had we started
in the direction of the "Granite Island.s" opposite the point, than the wind turned round to the north,
and compelled us to seek shelter in a bay of Punk Island, three miles south-east of the Grindstone
Point.

On Punk Island, strata I, 3, 3, and t of Deer Island were recognized in a buy, with some lithulogical
difl'erences. In Nos. i and 2 here, whicircould scarcely be distinguished from one another, a great
number of a Muilioloptis* were found.

Oil the north-east side of Punk Island, above the purple sardstouc mentioned as occurring at Big
Grindstone I'oint, n thin stratum of bufl-colourcd limestone occur:, possessing some peculiarities. On
raising slabs, between each stratum a soft ami very pure ochre of a beautiful yellow colour is found,
from one-eighth to half an inch in thickness. The oehic when moist and fresh is easily worked by the
tingers, quite destitute of gritty or hard particles, of a uniform pule yellow, and when burned, of a
beautiful cinnabar red. It is u.sed by thu Indians in both states as a pigment; the limestone in which
it occurs is extremely porous and often honeycombed.

Sept. 'iilh. — At lialf-past 2 a.m., thu wind being fair, and the sky clear, we prepared to start.
There was a sharp frost during the night, and thu tliermometer registered 28'. We made the traverse
of Great Wnshow Bay, 13 miles acro.ss, and breakfasted at a point half-way between Bull's Head aiul
Dog's Head. The limestone cliffs here were about 30 feet high, and occupy the coast from Bull's Head
to Whiteway's Post, opposite the Dog's Head. Wheru seen at breakfast, the coiist is fringed with
broken masses, which lie piled one on the other in picturesque confusion. Ascending the cliff, I
found large portion.4 detached from the main body, forming deep clefts or cracks. .Some of these fissures
were I'i leet wide and 20 feet deep, others three feet wide and of greater depth. Sometimes the fissures
were rimfed with ma.sses which had slipped forwaril, forming long, narrow caves, lined with moss. One
cave was more that fiO feet long, and with the exception of a small aperture, closed at (uie end and
roofed throughout. Wc named the spot Limestone Cave Point. From the description given by one

ic, llic reader

8m cluptcr by E. BiUiags, Eiq.

H REPORTS OF THE ASSINMBOINE AND

nrilm vnynixi'iirH wlii) liiiil wiiittTPil nciir t\u» pliicn iiiul knew tlic coiiniry well, (he rork ninng thi* cmml,
I'riini llic ItiiMV III III to I'iku llt'iiil. ii n«<iiri(l in tlic iii.iiiiu'r tictci jIm'iI. Vitv riM)iny wnllnl cavcrni
Clin l)i' HniiiJ, wlijcli lire vm\y omvcrlril into ixi'rlli'iil wiiili'i'iri)< lioiiiii (or triip|H'r«, 'I'lii' xiiicn oC the
fissiiir-i iiiv ])i'r|H'iiili('iiliir, iiiiil tilt' iViic'liirc i^ no t'vcii us to I'oriii ('liiiiiilirr'!i lietwfi'ii tliciii arc lit'iiiitiriilly fovfml with nioM, wliilo xniirriilly (Iroupiii)^ ovt'rlit'iiil lliu
liircli anil xvliiii> <ipriu'i' obHtriut llic rays of tin- <<tiii, (jiviii)^ to tlu'Hi> liiiii'ly ci'llx a ^iooniv mid (losoiale
a<ip('Ct. Till' linU'>iloii(' is Hiinilur to tlmt wliii-li liiii nhciiily Ih'i'Ii iltsciiltcil iik No. V ot Dior Ixlaliil.
Al lliv Narrows, or Do^'h IIi'iuI, tlio linivHtoiu' atitl iinro^Hilili'roii* rockn ari' in cioHu proximity. The
I'liNt nidi' of tliu mrait hciiiff coinpoiii'd of thu Laiirontiaii t'urniutioii, on lliu wi'it tidu of lower SiUirhin
liinc'lone,

Thf wind lu'iiif; liivoiiriilili', wi> snijcd diirlni; the whole day, and at 4 p.m. ri'iiclied the month of
Jiii'k Kiih Uiver. iiiiikiii^ a travri.se iicimkn M^hrr Hay, ii very deep indentalion, wliiMe wi'strrn limit
roiild lint lie Nieii IVoin (he eiinoe. In Fisher May ixliiiuls are ntnneroiis, and nonie of them of lnr^«
aria, Mieh us (iiviit Moose Island, in the mouth of the liny, and .liiniper Island, four miles to the liordi,
Due wesi of the Dog's Head, IILiek Hear Island eonlains an excellent hoiit liarlioiir, a feature worthy
of note, IIS it oeeiirs near the Ix'giiining of the ^reat traverse aerosH I'iaher May. .Iiiek I'ish Itiver issuei
from 11 marsh separated from the hike liy a hell of sand and shingle about 100 yanU liroad. 'I'lie river
runs in a westerly dircelion IVoiii a si'rirs of small lakes and swamps, through a level, low eountry,
iiliiiiiniling in fine spruce and liimiirac forists, hrnken liy gravelly ridges siippoiting |Miplar and liircll.
'I'lie lireiiillli of (he river iit its nioiilh is :)() feel, hut where it passes through the swamp it is broad and
deep, and so eontiiiiies liir some dislanee into the country, .hiek l''isli lliver is a favourite fishing
alaliiili of a tribe of Ojibwnys, and was once (he seat of a missionary estalilisliiiient.

Il will be mentioiud in another chapter that this triln- were deterred during the winter of iH.'iH from
winlering here, by a threat from a iioled enninror of the (irand Itiipid, illustrating the abjecl position
ill which siipeisiilion freipieiitly pliiees these mifortiinale people.

Leaving Jack l''isli Uiver, or ilie i'ike I lend, ns it is iiImi (ermed, from a promontory bearing that
name near to the mouth of the stream, we coasled under sail past Wicked I'oint across the traverse of
Kiiiwow May, roiiiiih'd Miicbelli I'liint, and camped nt Point I'lirnagnin, beyond the I'lit Head. The
coast nt the Cat llind is very precipitous; the limestone eh(Vs rise iiboiit IV) feel from the water, williout
any intervening beach, so thiit biuilH eaiiiuit hind, and must necessarily push on until a niiri'ow bnieli \s
fiMiiid a few miles beyond it. Limestone elill's, similar in all respects to lliose of the Cave I'oint,
occupy the const al intervals as far as the Cat Ilend, iiiid probably fringe the Mantngno-seebe Day, an
they lire seen near the mouth of the Little ISaskntchewan, and on tlic north point of the grenl liny which
di'iives its name from that river. Taking advantage of a lair wind and fine liiglil, we curried on acrusn
Lviix It.iy, and camped at hnlf-past II p.m.

.\l hiilf-pnst i on the liillowing morning n westerly wind eniibled us to round i'oint Turn'' 'i, pnsK
Htishkega iind the .Sturgeon Islands, and make the traver>e across the Little .Siskntchewan i. _ to the
mouth ol the river. In making the traverse we could not si e tin- extremity of this deep iiideiitation in
a soiilh-ensterly diriction, where the .Mantngao-seebe ikboiiclies. The grentir portion of the bay was
coiistcd by Mr. Fleming during his voyage from the (irmid Itapid tu the mouth of Ked lliver. The
t<'iiiperalure of the Little Saskntchewan was liinnd to be ■'>~}j'', of Luke Winnipeg, one degree higher.

The description of the west coast of Lake Winnipeg, from the nioulli of the Little Siiskatcliewan to
the Ciriiil S.iskatchewan, is given in Mr. Fleming's nnriative, pp. HS-iU). In order lo complete n
description of the entire const line ol this hike, I append the following extriict from Sir John Itichardsoii's
Joiiriiiil of a Hont N'oynge tliroiigh Itupert's Land and the Arctic .S'a. The .soutli-eu'lern coast of
Luke Winnipeg, from the mouth of the N\'innipeg to Ked Uiver, was described in my Report for 1857,
page W51 : —

" The eastern coast-line of hike Winnipeg is, in general, swampy, with granite knolls rising through
" the soil, but not to such a height iih to render the scenery hilly. The piiic-foresl skirts the shore
*' at the distance of two or three miles, covering gently rising lands, and the breiidth of eontinuoiis lake
■' sinlnee .seems lo he in process <if diminution, in the fullowing way. A bank of sand i.s lirst driliid up
" in the line of a chain of rocks which may happen tu lie across the mouth of an inlet or deep bay.
•' Carict's, balsiim-poplars, and willows speedily lake root therein, and the basin which lies lit hind, cut
" olf from the parent lake, is gradually converted into n miirsli by the luxuriant growth of lujuatic
" plants. The sweet p,ale ni'Xt appears on its borders, and drill-wood, much of il rotten and coni-
" niiiuited, is thrown up on the exterior bank, together willi some routs and stems of larger trees.
'• The first spring storm covers these with .sand, and. in a few weeks, the vigorous vegetation of a .'hort
" but active summer binds the whole together by a network of the roots of bents and willows.
" (Jiiamiiirs of di ift-sand pass behue the high wiiuls into tlii' swamp behind, and, weighing down the
" flags and willow liranches, prepare a fit .soil for Biicceeding cro|)s. l)uring the winter of this climate
" all remains fixed as the summer kit it. and I's the next >ensoii is far advanced bcliire the bank thaw.B,
" little ul it Washes bark into the water, but, on the contrary, every gale blowing from the lake brings
" a Irish supply of suiul from the shoals which are continually forming along the shore. The fliuxls
" raised by mciti'd snows cut narrow channelK through the fro/en beucli, by which the ponds behind
" are dr.iined of tlieir superfluous waters. As the .soil gradually uctpiires depth, the bidsniii' poplars
" and iispeiis overpower the willows, which, however, continue to form u line of demarcation between
" the lake and the encroaching forest.

" Considerable sheets of water are also cut off on the north-west side of the lake, where the bird's-eye
" limestone forms the whole of the coast. Very recently this corner was deeply indented by narrow,
'< bnincliing bays, whose outer points were limestone clilTs. Under the action of frost, the thin
" horizdiiial beds of this stone split up, crevices are formed perpendicularly, large blocks are detached,
" and the clifF is rapidly overthrown, soon becoming masked by its own ruins. In a season or two

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

H,r)UO H(|uiirf milo.
:^H0 Niutiitu iiilleii.

AT 11 i»
D.'JO „ „
6!28 I'ft't.

" the ilalw break inio mnnll friiKmnitu, which iirc tomii'd up hy the wnvoii ncro«ii the neck nl' thr hny
•< iiilii the liirni of imrrow riilKu-liku liciichts liurii Wt) to ;»(> Ifft hi^h. Mini ami vi'«riulilc' iiiiut.r

" aruiliii lly fill up the pira'ii ol'w.itrr tliiit ni'tlmliMl ; ii willuw .»wimip it liirmiMl ; ami wl llii' Krniiml

•' in Miiiivwiiat coiiMilidiiti'il, ihu willows arc rrplaiid liy a ^rovr of a«p<'ii<i.* Ntnir llic liril and wi'omi
" llocky I'liintii.t thu vjirioiis utaufi of llii» prtici'ss may lit- iiiHiicctrd, from llic rich alluvial flat
» ctiviTfd with iriTN ami liniimlitl liy flilj!! lliut oiicu ovimIiiim;; tin- walor, lo iIid puml rcci'iitlv cut
•■ iitr liy a iiiikfd liarriiT of linieiil<iiu', pt'lililr", ami kIiiIih, ilisiliar^iii); itx Np|■ill^ lloodii into the lakf liy
" II narrow tlioii^li nipid Ntrcaiii. In huiiii: I'xpowd placi» tliu protnurc of lln' ice, or powrr of the
'• wavi'K in heavy na\vn, has forcud tin' rinn'»tonc fr.n{intiil» iiilii llir wimdi, and liraind tliciii round lliu
" ntL'iin of trcen, itoiiiu of wlncli arc dvinn a liiiKBrinj; death ; while olliem, thai have heeii dead fur
" many yeum, icslily to their former 'vitality, ami the mode in which they luive perished, liy lli.ir
" upright 'tciiis, crowned by the decorticated ami lichcn-covercd branches which protrude from llie
" »lony bank. 'I'he analogy In'twecii the cMtumbmcnt of livinj^ trees, in tlicir erect position, to the
'• Kteiiis o( Hi'/illiiriic, which rise through diHi'rent layers in the coal-moahure», is ohvious."t

'I'hu follouni); are the dlineniiionR of Lake \\'iiini|)«K:—
Area of Lnku ....
I.en)<ili, not in'jj. I'lay (Jrcen I.iiko
Greatest breadth - - - .

Length of const lino ...

Approxiiniite heixlit nhove the sen

This estimate of the altitude of l.nke Winnipeg above the sea level was deduced in 1857, from the
levels takuii across the porlaifes aliiiift the line of the canou coininunicatioii U'twern Fort U'illiaiii on
l.akc .Superior, and Fort Alexaiiiler on Lake Wiunipetr, — {Srr. imgc 'ihl if Ihu He/iort fur Iis,'i7.)
The heinlit ol the dividing riih'e whirh sepanilis thcM' lakes Irom one aliolher is l.lH.'i feet iiliove the
level of the sea; and disOint, by the caiiou route, lUl miles from Fort \> illiaiu and .'> 10 miles Irom
Fort Alexander.

Miijnr l.oii^, in IH'iA, found the M'tircra of St. I'eter mid Ueil Uiver to l>e ti'M feel above the oceiiii,
and Lake Winnipef,' (i30 leut uhov the same level — a dillercnce of only two feet in excess of the
ehtiinatu we made in IH.'iY.

When it is remembered thnt thu St. I'eter Uiver is an aOlnent of the Mississippi flowing into thu
Ciiilf of Mexico, and Ited Itivcr communicates with Lake Winnipeg, which sends its surplus water to
Hudson's Hay by Nelson Uiver, the extraordinary lowness i>f the water-shed liecoines appareiil.

An it is nut im[>rohable that coming events will iniike all eommunicalions between the Mississippi
Vnlh'y and Lake Wiiinii
from the " Narrative
in IH23 :—

'• The .St. I'eter, in our opinion, probably never can U' miule ii commodious stream; lor allhonnh it
tlows over f;rada(ions, and not U|H>n a slant, )et us these gradations are acciimulated into the upper
third of the distance between Ui){ .Stone Lake and the inoiith of the river, the expense of reiiilerinn it
navii;abli by daniniini; and locking would far exceed the importance of the object. The plan would
doubtless be Ibuiid very practicable, but the scarcity of water during the greater part of the year would
render these works uiuvailin|;.

" I'l'iim consiilei'alioiis upon which it is unnecessary to dwell, and the accuracy of which ini^lit be
(lis|)iited, though ihev uppe;ir lo us to lead to correct results, we have estimati'd the fall in the river, or
dlU'erence of level between the Lac ipii I'arle Miid tlio miiiitb of the river, at about ,'/ii or tiO leet.
According; to this estiinate the average fall does not exceed two or three inches per mile,

" The river baviu); taken a bend to tlie wi ^t, wt- ci):'.tiiiui d our route in what appeared to have lu'en
an old water^'onrse, and within threu miles of the Big .Stoiiu Lake Ibuiid ourselves on the banks of
Lake Travers, which dischnr^os its waters by means of .Swan or Sioux Uiver into the Ued Uiver of
Lake Winnipeg, whose waters, n» is well known, (low towards llndsou's Hay.

" The space between Ijikes TraVers and Hii; .Stone is but very little elevated above the level of both
tlie.sc lakes; and the water bos lK.<eu known, in times of tlood, to rise and cover the interniediate ground
Ml as to unite the two lakes. In fact, both these bodies of water are in the same valley ; and it i: <vi'!;in
the rec'.illection of some persons luiw in the country, that a boat once tloated from Lake Travers into
the St. I'eter. Thus therefore, this spit oilers us one of these iiiterestin<r phenomena which we have
already alluded to, but which are nowiiere, perhaps, so apparent as tlicy are in this place.

" Here we behold the waters of two niiglity streams, one of whieli empties itself into Hudson's Hay,
at the .JTtli parallel of north latitude; and the other into the Onlf iif .Mexico, in latitude 2',*^ ; rising in
the same valley, within three miles of each other, and even in some cases olVering a direct natural
navi^atiun from one into the other."

'•,..'>.,#■. .•■«.» V,. p^ ...*.. I. .... V ..^,.... .- ...,.....■ -.f.^.

/innipei; iiilerestnig, if not important. I venture to introduce the subjoined extract
ve ol Major Long's Kxpedition to the Source of St. Peter's Uiver," performed

* 11ii> Tni-t of till- forniutiuh of liu'M; il 'tiu'livil ponds, marshix*, unit uIluviHl HaIi, poinu titht'r lo n graJuiil vli'vutioii of tlio district,
ur to ni) i>ril<irgi>lilciit uf the outli't uf tlii' lukv, producinK d sutitidftiCL- til' iti waUTi.

t TliL' Strom 4t ttiuw points contain many gigantic ortlioccratiti's, sunic uf wliicli tmvc beiMi dv»cril)cd by .Mr. Sttil&cs in thu Ocological
Tr.inHiictiuns.

X If one of tlie flpnicu tirs iiictuded in the linientone di'hriH liiul it^ top broken off, and a layer of mud were tlr|HMitcd over all, we
■honid liuve the counlerpilit of n sketch of .Sir Ilenrjr de 1.1 Heche's .Manual (p. 407). l'h» thick and lleshy rliiionial,! of the Cutf.i
p<i/uslri'f. marked with the cicatrices of fallen leaves, and uhich arc abtiuilanl in thebe wntctit, bc.ir no \ery tlistant resemblance to
atit/marut.

N 2

f —

100

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND
CHAPTER IX.

THE MOUTH OF THE LirfLE SASKATCHEWAN TO THE SALT SPRINGS ON WINNIPE00-8IS LAKE.

The Little Saikntchcwan — Height of Bank — Country in rear — Tracking — Stvampi — Banks ofUivcr — Ojibway
Camp — Wliitc-Flsli — Cliaractcr of Country — Canoe Fleet — Spruce — Houlilcra — Mursli— St. Martin Lake—
"Money" — Pounded Fisli — Wavya — Fine Lund — Tlie Narrows — Kouldcr Harriers — Sugar Island — Indians
— Oncissoid Islands — St. Martin Hocks — Beach Barriers — Dej)tli of St. Martin Lake — Thunder Island —
Thunder Storm — Partridge Crop Uiver — UusIks — Old Mission — Low Country— Indian Fanner — Wide
Spread Marsh — Fairford — The Character of the Country — The Mission — Evening Service — Kev. Mr. Stagg
— The Farm — Hudson's Bay Company's Post — Kum — Lake Manitobuli — Progress of the Season — Hocks —
Fossils — The Coast — Steep Hock I'oint — Devonian Hocks — Indian Superstition — Water-hen Hiver — Kagles
— Character of Wotcr-hen Kivcr — Pi-licans — Indians — VV'ooil and Prairie Indians — Barter — Winnipego-sis
Lake — Ermine Point — Elm»^Salt Spring — Snake Islands— Duck Mountain — Snake Island Fossils — Arrive
ut Salt Springs.

A few huiulred ynrils above tlie inoutli of the river, liorizoiittil Lower Silurian limestone shows itself
on both sides, nnil it is tbroiigli this rock that the Little Saskatchewan lias excnvnted its bed. The
limestone contains fossils in tibuiidiincc, liiit in very bad state of preservation in mntiy of the layers.
They are similar to those found on Lake Wiiinipefj at Cave Point, and in its litli()lii;.;ical aspect there
is no appreciable dill'erence between the exposures in either locality. The Little S;iskalchewaii, us its
name implies, lias a very rapid current, varying from one to four miles an hour. 'I'lie banks arc not
more than 20 to 25 feet above its level near tbe mouth, and dimiiiisli in iillilinl" in ascendinj; llic
stream. They are fringed vitli aspen, poplar, spruce, and tanmrnc. In the rear swamps occur, often
covered with deep moss, and sustaining clumps of tamarac and s|)rnce of fair dimensions, l)u'( scarcely
suitable for any other purposes tliati those which a limited settlement might occasion.

The river proving too rapid for using the sweeps, we were compelled to track np, a difficult and
tedious laliour to the men, but otli'riiig nii excellent opportunity for making traverses into the country,
which, however, were never deep, the swamps soon nriesting progress inland. The getieral ns|)ect of
the river for the first four miles is very attractive, resembling, in m.uiy particulars, Kaiiiy Uiver.
About three miles from the lake the limestone disappears, being covered with drift or alluvial chiv.
The banks rise gently with the .stream, which is rapid iimi shalhiw. The yellow autuimial foliage of
the aspens contrasts beautifully at this seasoti of the year with the spruce and tamarac, and gives a
charming appearance to tlie river banks. 'I'ownrds evening we arrived at a camp of Djibways,
containing four tents. Tiicy bad an iilMindance of white-iisb, and told me the river «as full <if them.
Anxious to test the statement, I intimated a wish to purchase a score of fresh (isli, and oil'ered an Indian
some tea and tobacco if be would catch them immediately, lie accepted the oIILt, entered his caiiue,
crossed over to a well-known eddy, and in liltecn iiiiiuites brought back SO white-lioh, weighing on
an average three pouiuls each. N\'c camped close to the Ojibways, as we knew that if we tracked a
mile or so up the stream they would follow iis, inid (Uir parly might be iiicreaseil by others in ndvnnct.
of them. As it was, the guns tliey fiied at our arriv.d had been hianl, so that at sunset several canoes
came swil'tly down the stri'ani, (illed hIiIi men and women to "learn the news." 1 he whole bodv
camped close to us, ami v.liat with talkinix, shouting, screaming of iliildren, and howling of dogs, we
enjoved no rest until late in the night.

Bv dav-break on the following morning wc> rose siiid eniploved a liw hours in examining the country
in the rear of the camp. The banks ol the livi'r arc here about 20 feet above the present level of
the river, but the country is very marshy, and clotlie<l «itli tumaiae ami spruce behind the iK'lt of
aspens which fringe the river banks. Alter breaktiisl, the wind being lidr, we hoisted .sail, and in
company with our Ojibwjy friends proceidiil up the river. A little (leet of 2M canoes, each with a
birch bark sail, glided (piiekly ahead of us, but the breeze (re.sheiiiiig we soon caught and passed them
one liv one. The banks of the river are not more than 10 leet above its present level alwut nine miles
Irom its mouth, but are rarely flui (led. '1 hey consist ol alluvial clay, and sustain many groves ol fine
spruce and aspen. At some of the Itiids tlnie is a large accmnnlation of boulders, consisting chiefly
oltlie uiifossililerous rocks. '1 he colour of the trees is truly beautiful, nearly all the aspens in front arc
yellow even at this early period, while those in the rear, protected in some measure from the night frost,
still retain their green.

About five miles from St. ALirtiii Lake a niarsli begins, <in the edge of which we camped, our Indian
friends ,soon closing with lis, tioiiie ol the old men were anxious to show me some specimens of
" Money" they hail carel'iiily fnldid in bus ol cloth or birch bark. The "Money,"' respecting which
they have no disiinet idea exci pt that i( is " white," according to inliirmation they have obtained from
half-breeds, cDiisisted of liiignicnis of S( lenile, iron pyrites, and silver mica. They profess to know
where a large (piantiiy of this " Money "" is to be huinil, and demand tea and tobacco for the intelli-
gence. These Indians have been making their autumnal fi.shing bunt, and have with them hir.ge birch
bark ves.seU liiled with jioiindcd white-li^h, previously dried and smoked, a miserable substitute for
pemican. They had al.so stnrgeim bladders (illed with white-fish oil. 'I'he pounded fish and the oil
form part of their winter stores; some simiples which were submitted to me lor inspection, with ii view
to barter, were the reverse; of inviting.

.SeptemI er 27 til, — .\ stormy, iiiieoml'orliible night. \\'iivys (Amer hi/perhnreus) flying to the south early
tills iiiuininLr in laiuellock — a sure sign, it is said,of appioaehing winter. '1 he Inilians suy there is some
fine land and large trees in the rear of this pan of the river. The river from our camp to St. Martin
Lnke, iiliout \'A miles in an air line from Lake Winnipeg hns miirshy banks. St. Martin Lake once

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

ini

■SIS LAKE.

'River — Ojibway
t. Martin Lakc-l
r Island— Indinmi

'Imtider Island

I'arinrr — Wide
— Hfv. Mr. Stagg
<i'as(in — HdcIjs —
n Uiver — ICagles
■ — Winnippgo-sis
I Fossils — Arrive

one shows itself
its lift!. Tlie
of the layers,
eal nipect there
ilt'hetvan, as its
1.' hanks me not
I ascenilini; I lie
i|)s occur, ol'ren
IS, bn! .scarcely

I difficult niul

the countrv,
lerai a.s|M'ct of
. Uainv liiver.
r ulliiviul clav.
iiial Iblia^c of
ac, and nivos a

• of Ojihwavs,
■* liill I'f ihcni.
L'rt'd an Indian
L'red his canoe,
. weiyhinnr on
I' we tracked .1
'rs in advnncL
several canoes
lie wliole IkmIm
'^ of dojj'j, we

1^' the coiuiiry
e.sent level of
d the JKlt of

1 sail, and hi
s, eacli with n

I passed them
Jilt nine miles
?roves o( fine
sisliin; chieilv
IS in iVont arc
le ni^ht frust,

d, our Indiiin
specimens of
)ectin{; whieh
)l)lained from
iiliss to know
!• the inlelli-

II Inrjfe birch
siihslitnte for

and the oil
, with 11 view

le sonlli early
ihere is some
o Si. Martin
II Lnko once

rcarbed, Biiiall eminences, which in tliif flnt country almost deserve the name of hills, appear on the
south side, so also on the north side before enlerinj; the Narrows. In general the shores are very Ion,
particularly to the south-east. The Narrows are caused l)y a remarkable barrier of boulders, chii lly
consisting of the unfossiliferoiis rocks, about six feet above the lake, and 20 feet broad. On the west side
of the barrier there is nn extensive wide-spreading marsh, but the water of the lake is clear, as in most
limestone region.s.

\\'e arrived at this isolated body of water soon after noon, and camped on a beach or barrier thrown
np in the form of semi-circnlar ridges about liiilf a mile across the arc, and connected in the form of
the letter S. In the formation of these ridges granite or gneissoid boulders are first pushed by ice
npcm n limestone gravel bar ; aspens and willows grow on the ridges rapidly formed by sand and gravel
washed lip in llie rear of the boulders; and the space ^.artly enclosed or sheltered l)y llie curve is soon
filled with reeds, ihiifl forming extensive marshes at the eastern extremity of Si. Martin Lake. Near
the channel which sep, rates this maze from the main body of the lake a new beach is now in process of
formation, and consists ai present of a long semi-circular line of stranded boulders, over which the sea
washes in easterly and westerly gahs. Ilt)und about tlic boulders limestone giayel is accumulating, and
thus, in this direction at least," the lake is slowly diminishing in size, the materials being in great jiart
supplied from the wearing away of islands and the adjoining coast.

September 2.Sth.— We succeeded in passing the Narrows before breakfast thi.s morning, and made our
way into the main lake throiigli a chiinnel varying from three to nine feet in depth, kept open, no
doubt, by the Partridge Crop Kiver, which takesthc name of the Little Saskatchewan after it has pa.ssed
through St. Martin Lake. We breakfasted on Sugar Island, being followed by the little ilect of canoes,
whose owners a|)[ieared determined to reach Fairford l«;foie us, it possible.

On Sii-rar Isliuid I found what a|)pcarcd to be parliiilly metamorphosed sindstone rock, tilled at an
angle of .M", wUh a .^. JiO" \V., and X. 30° E. strike. At one extremity of the i.sland it approached
th<! character of gneiss, at the other extremity it presented the appearance of impure sandstone layers
lilted at a high angle. Sugar Island is about a mile from the Narrows, and lies S, 7.')° L. from tlircu
small islands, which upon examination were found to consist of gneiss inlerseclcil with qiiiiriz veiii.s.
The rock on Sugar Island is exposed on one side in the form of a precipitous clilf 20 feet high. On
the opposite side it slopes gradually to the water's edge. The Indians, in 18 canoes, followed us to the
islanil, and the chief, with .some ostentation, informed nic that it belonged to him, but be had no olijec-
tion to my exploring it. He further stated, that as chief of the band he claimed the whole country
from Tisher Uiver, on Lake Winnipeg, to the mouth of Cartridge Crop Kiver.

Sugar Island is m f ivoiirit'- lampiiig ground of the Ojibways, who now occupy this part of the country.
We iiiiiii(l some graves near to u garden in which potatoes were planted. A few pieces of tuliacco
pidctired us a small supply of this precious vegetable in these regions. Sugar Island is so named from
a grove of the asli-leiived maple, the trees of which bore old marks of tapping.

\\'e went out ot our ennise to visit the gnci.ssoid islands before referred to. The first island bore
neiirlv (hie east of Sugar l-land. It consists of gnei«s with rose-coloured lilspalhic veins, puisuing a
general direction lA' >>. Ill" K. The axis of the island is also .S. -lO" K., and the gneiss is intersected by
fissures iie.irly at right angles to one another, one set bearing S. '20" — 40° I']. 'Ihe surface of the gneiss
(III the highest piiini, which may be 23 feel ab(.ve the lake, is polished and lurrowed in a direelion
.S "k")° K. The smiih-east shore is precipildus, the op(iosile sloping.

1 he secord island consists of gneiss, with large (piarU veins meandering through it. It is douie-
slia|)e(l. The third island, wiihin a few yards of the first and second, shows far less nietamorphic action,
and with a strike S. 1 j' \V., has a diii 7.j° from the vertical. It is precipitous to the .\. \\'., and slojies
to the S.L.

Proceeding along the south-west coast, we linind a barrier of beaches along the shore about 300 yards
distant from it, lui which boulders of the partially metamorphosed sandstone and gnei.ss were piled np ;
f.irlher on were worn and large unworn liaginents of a silicious liiiRsione, which, however, was nowhere
found in position. The occurrence of these gneissoid islands in a fiat liiiieslone coiinliy is very interest-
ing ; the iiielainor|)hosed sundslune shows that the epoch of their elevation must have been before the depo-
sition of the liinestoiie found on Thunder khiiul, to which we next proceeded, and alter the deposition
of the sandstone on Sugar Island. The three gneissoid islands, having nu name, we called St, Nlartin's
Uocks. It is not improbable that the epoch of their elevation was simultaneous with outbursts which
have been observed in other parts of the continent. At noon we arrivcil at a semi-circular island of
beaches similar to those at the east end of the lake. They are du(! to the great shallowness of St. Martin
Lake, which, with an area of over 300 sipuire miles, was nowhere found to be more than 18 feet ileeji,
and often only five and six feet lor long distances.

In the afternoon we landed on nu island on which stratified limestone, In horizontal layer.s, was
exposed. The limestone posses.sed some singular peculiarities. Numerous cup-«liiip('il forms, of very
large dimensions, were visible in projecting masses over the whole ol' the suilaee expoaeil. Many of
these cups were fully 13 inches in diameter at the surface, and W(nild hold iit least one (piart of water.
'I hey consisted of concentric rings, or cups, regularly arriniged, and from 111 to .■)() or more in number.
The thickness of each cup varied from one-tenth to one-(]uarlcr of an inch. A single specimen resiiuliled
a gigantic onion which had been cut in half, with a few of the inner layers exlracled, leaving a cavity
or depression. Many scpiare yards of surface were variegated with this structure. The colour of the
limestone is a Imn'-yellow ; its fracture is uneven, and masses are dillicuil to .separate. It is extremely
hard and silicious. The height of the exposure is l(i feet, and so nearly horizonlal that no iiicliiialioii
coulil be detected. The island having no name, and being remarkable for its rotk tiirmalion, it was
thought worthy of some designation; we therefore tailed it " Thunder Island," in memory of a storm

of hail and rain, accompanied by lightning and thunder ol more than ordinary violence, which made us
very uncomfortable for the rest of the day and during the ensuing nigiit.

N .3

It was the last of 20 thunder

102

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

storms which we had encountered since entering the prairies on the 14th of June, and was only second
to one in viuience nnil suliiimity.

Anxious to f!ct on wc pulled nt the sweeps until after dusk, having reached an island about four miles
from Thiiiuler Island. Wc found a siirltcred cove, and all slept in the boat, there being nuspot on the.
bouldcr-beuch or barrier on which we could discover six feet of level ground,

September 29lh. — When mornin;^ dawned, which it did in a drcnchin<!, cold rain, we found we were
attached to one of the stony barriers which protect certain aspects of the islands, or main shore. The
ever-present marsh lay betweci us anil the timber we so much needed for fuel ; but the wind now rising
to a gale, we were compullcd to contcil ourselves wiih an exploration of our boulder barrier to its utmost
limits. Ii was about 100 yards broad, two to three miles long, and consisted of water-worn masses of
limestone and gneiss, with limestone gravel between them. 'I'he marsh which separated it from the
island was full of weeds, and harboured wild fowl, some of which we succeeded in killing.

We found great difficulty in discovering the mouth of Fartriilge Crop River, or St. Martin River, as
it is also called. A ma/e of rushes inland, extending as far as the eye can .see, hides it from view. Half
n mile up the stream we saw the houses of the mission, established, but afterwards abandoned, by the
Rev. Mr. Cowley. All the houses were in ruins, and tenantless. The country is vei_ low, and liable
to be flooded in the autumn and spring. There are but a few hundred acres of land fit tor agricultural
purposes, four or five feet above the river. Tlie spot was one, however, of great resort among the
Indians of this part of the country, and hence the probable reason why a .selection of this site was made
for the estal)lishmcnt of a mission. On landing we found one Indian family who are determined to con-
tinue the cultivation of the little fields which have been cleared and enclosed. They had accumulated
three small stacks of hay, were possessed of a yoke of oxen, and were living in one of tlie least dilapidated
houses.

We took to our boat at the beginning of Partridge Crop River, having secured a guide from the fleet
of canoes in the rear to take us through a narrow passage between beds of rushes which cover many
square miles, and ot>nstilule the " Crop," so called by the Indians on accmuit of the resemblance which
the outline of this reeily expanse bears to the "crop" of a partridge. We threaded our way through
the mazes of a iiiaish suppiatiiig rushes so tall that, without climbing the mast of the boat, it was impos-
sible to see beyond the ma.sses which enclosed us. The rushes measured from 10 to 12 feet in length,
and grew so thickly together that ihey formed a compact green wall, past which the current flowed as if
they were formed of solid, stable materials. 'I'liroiigh little openings, which were now and then tlisclosed,
we saw tranquil ponds, with a scarcely percept.i)le stream. Here revelled hosts of ducks of many
species.

We arrived at Fairford at 3 p.m., having occupied about two hours in passing through the Crop.

I'".iii'!'ird i.^ very prettily situatcti on the banks of I'artriil^e Crop River (a continuation of the Little
.SiskiililiLwaii), about two miles 'rom Lake Manitobah. The banks are here alK)ut 20 ftct high, and
show alluvial clay with boulders; but llie limestone approaches the surface a short distance in the rear
of the river. It is covered with eight lo leu inches of vegetable mould; and although the appearance of
the country is attractive, tlie ^hallowncss of the soil would not |)erinit of extensive .igricullural openuions.
The dip of the rock is towards the south-west, i)ut at so small an angle as to be imiierciplihle, except
when a suil'ace of several square yarils is exposed. Fossils are few in number, and obscure; the lime-
stone breaks up into thin slabs, lieiui; very compact and hard.

We atliMuled evening prayers in an excellent school-house, which serves the purpose of a cha|iel.
There were Ul |)ersons presenl, consisting chiefly of lialf-hreeils. The service consisted of ii hymn ami
a chapter Iroui liie New iestarnent, respectively sung and reail in the Ojibway laiiijuage ; an exposition
of the chapter by means of an interpreter, anil a concluding prayer ; ihe Lord's I'rayer was rej)eated
aloud in Ojibway by the whole con^'regation.

riiiTe are I2i) (hristians, adults and children, at this mission, 'i'he houses are 15 in number, neat,
coinfoi table, and in excellent order. Several new dwellings are in process of erection. The appearance
ol this mission is very pnanisiug, anil in every way most credilable lo the unceasing labours o( the
zealous iiiissioMaiy, the Rev. Mr. Slag;;. We were supplied with potatoes, onions, turnips, fresh bread,
and butler, and otherwise most hospiiably entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Magg. A young lady from
NoltiiiL;haiii, Ku;;lanil, Miss Thompson, is residing at the mission, and devotes hersell with exemplary
industry, in connexion with Mrs. ,^tagg, to the education and care ol Indian and half-breed children.
The farm is in capital order, and altliough the area adapted for cultivation is not likely to induce the
establishment of.i large settlement, yet Fairford will become an important centre,

Tlie Hon. Hudson's Hay Company have a post at this mission, but it is matter of deep regret that
the heathen Indians who come to barter their furs here should be permitteil to have access to rum. The
lillle fleet of canoes before s[)okeu of arrived during the evening, and .it nightfall the sounds ol drunken
revelry told how terribly the debasing influence of this traffic must operate against the Christian and
humaui/ing Influence of the missionary, i'he post had been but recently estulilished, anil the distribu-
tion of intoxicating liquors to the Indians appeared to be a subject of deep anxiety and trouble to the
Rev. Mr. Stager.

We reached the mouth of the river at noon on the lost day of September, and entered Lake Mani-
tobah with a head wind, which soon compelled a retreat to a low sheltered beach. The expo.sed aspens
are now quite yellow, but a tint of green remains on groves at some distance from the lake shore. Large
boulders arc pili il up high upon the beach, and behind them is the unfailing marsh. In bays limestone
gravel forms a sloping beach to the water's edge, but here again in the rear is a marsh, it is only at
the headlands that rock in position, or Arm soil, appears as yet,

ill the afternoon we set sail and arrived at Flat Rock bay, where limestone of Devonian age is seen
on the south side. Some of the layers are highly fossililerous, and hold numbers of Atry/ia relicuLirit
and A. nsj>era. The stems of crinoids are coiumuii, but the species arc very few, Tiic rock is nearly

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

103

was only second

horizontal, and the penernl dip south-west, at n very small an<;lp, but many slight undulations occur,
givinjj an incliniition of equal extent in an opposite direction. Tiie exposure in tlie bay is 10 feet iiigh,
worn into caves. The colour is a pale buff, with some reddish-brown layers. Fucoids are abundant,
and become, when weathered, yellowish-bu;T. Small oak are scattered near the spot where we camped,
interspersed with aspen. In the rear, tamarac and f nee swamps prevented an cxaniiiialion of the
country for more than a few hundred yards from th ..re. ^\ here rock in position does not form
the beach, the marginal barrier of boulders is foun-.i •■ a beach, marsh, or swamp in the rear.

October 1st.— Collected fossils, breakfasted, ai;i: ulied to Steep Hock Point. Here the lim.-stone
(Devonian) is 20 feet high, quite abrupt, with six teet of water at the base of the cliff. The layers are
more massive and compart than before noticed ; they occur from one to three feet in thickness, aie very
hard, and hold many organic forms replaced by crystalline carbonate of lime. Three anil a half
fathoms water were found within 100 yards of Steep Kock Point. A number of swans were seen
sailing in n little bay to the south of this landmark in Lake Mauitobah, which, by the way, the Indians,
who hunt in this part of the country do not visit, being persuaded that "little men " live in the caves
and holes into which the rock has been worn by the action of the wave.s. We ran on before the wind,
past Cherry Islands and Point Pao-nan, until dark, and then made for the shore, soon fiiuling a small
sheltereil bay in the inside of a boulder beach in process of formation, about 200 yards from land.
Temperature of the lake, ,53° ; greatest depth of water recorded, 22 feet.

A fair wind on the 2nd started us at dawn. We steered for the mouth of the Water-hen River,
leaving on our left Crane River and Bay, where salt springs are found, and then passed through a
narrow channel in a reef of boulders, which stretched from east to west, as far as we could see. The
wind being fair, we pressed on, notwithstanding a heavy rain, and landed, rather late in the day for
breakfast, on an island near the mouth of Water-hen River, which connects Lake Manitobah with
Water-hen and Wiiniipego-«is Lake. Here we found a pair of white-headed eagles engaged in fishing;
and as we came suddenly upon them after rounding a point, one of them dropped a fine white-fish lie
had just caught, which was immediately seized and appropriated by our men tor their own breakfast.

We entered one of the many mouths of the river at 2 p.m., and pulUd up a broad channel through
a vast marsh, whose limits are well defined by a belt of aspens oti either hand. Having reached an
attractive camping place, where the woods came down to the edge of the river, we landed with a view
to make a .short traverse into the country. The river is swift, very broad, and prettily varied with well-
woodeil islands. At our eamp the trees consisted of white spruce, one foot six inches in diameter;
poplar, aspen, birch, and tamarac. The land is low, not 10 feet above the water. In the rear we
found a tamarac swamp, with l)elts of white spruce. The channel ihrnugli which our course lay was
about 300 feet broad and three feet deep, with a fiat limestone bottom. The water was clear and
brilliant, fish very numerous, and water-lowl abundant.

()eti)l)er 3r(l.— /v'/i raute at 9 a.m., the early part of the morning being employed in drying
clothes after the rain of yesterday. We eoiiunenced pulling up Water-hen River, which here appears to
contain many low islands, and its agfjregate breadth nuist l)e .several hundred yinds near om' camp.
Signs ot the approach of cold weather began to thicken around us; a large llock of pelicans, wheeling
in circles far allow, suddenly (orincd into an ariow-lii'adrd figure, and struck straight to the south.
Yellow leavfs driliing in the air beliiie a cold north wind, piimiised u^, as the half-breeds .vav, by the
beautiful aurora of last night. [Si'i' " Anronu" p. Il(i.) l.slaiids, low and reedy, conlinue to appear until
we arrive at the Ciieat lieml, where a liand of Indians have their winter <iuarleis. The Indians are
Roman Catholics, oriiiinally fiom Oxford House. 1 persuaded one of them to act as guide up Mass
River to Dauphin Lake, after we had visited the salt works, Their tents weie dirty and excessively
odorous. Ill general the Indians of l.iike ^^'innipeg and Manitobah, in point of cleanliness, cannot
bear comparison with the Prairie Indians.

We met here, also, a IVeigliter-lioat, in charge of a French half-breed, who, with his family, were
returning from the salt springs to Oiik Point with aluint 12 liiishels of salt. We exclian"cd a little
tea and tobacco for ducks and fisli ; and on the fullowiiig morning started by the middle branch of
Water-hen River tor Winnipego-sis Lake, leaving ^^'ater-llcn Lake to the north. The river is broad,
shallow, and reiily ; a low hell of aspens, a mile oil', on either side, shows the oiilv land visible.

A fair wind diove us swifily on. anil at noon we stop|)ed at Lrmine Point, i$:> Wimiipego-sis Lake,
This is a low beach, with a marsh behind, and is remarkable fur some fine old ciin.s, crooked and gnarled,
still nourishing on the spit, near to a salt spring. At -l we reached .Snake Island, where we camped
early, for the purpose of examining an exiiosure of rock, and to collect the lossiU which a glance
showed it containeii in abinidaiiee. The Duck mountain loomed a grand object in the norlli-west.

The rock exposures on .^niike Island are veiy iiileresiiiig, in.i only on aceoinit of llie fossils they
contain, but in consei|Uence of the evideiici: they alford of a slight upheaval, so rare in the present
disposition of the rocks of this region.

'I'lie exposure at its highest jioint does luit exceed 20 feet, but it is the centre of a low, narrow,
anticliind, running north and south nearly. The dip on the east side is .S. 75, V.. /_ \W^ ; and on the
west, W. IJO, S. /..v. 'I'he limestone is highly fossililerous, beautifully slratitied, very hard, and bitu-
minous. It holds abundance of yllri//ia irtiviilnris ; TclUua imita ; with fossils belonging to the genera
Fafosites ; Eiiomphatus ; J'roduchis ; (Jimijihociiiiii ; Orthocmu ; />(V«(7c.<; together with Trilnbites ;
Critiou/n, Sic. iMr. Hillings thinks this locality unquestionably Devonian.

On the morning of the 5lh of October wc set sail from Siiake Island. ;
and springs at noon.

> and arrived at the salt works

N 4

104

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

I ■;

CHAl'TEU X.

THE SALT-BPniNOS, ON WINNIPEGO-SIS LAKE, TO THE SUMMIT OF THE RIDING MOUNTAIN-
SUMMIT OP THE IllUINO MOUNTAIN TO MANITOUAH HOUSt:.

-THE

; I

hi«

Character of tlm Country — The Duck Mountain — The Salt Springs — The WclU — The Manuracture of Salt —
Salt Springs and Lagoons — Moss Uiver — Kapida — Character of River — Valley or Dauphin River — The
Riding Mountain — Lake Ridge — Hay Cirnund — Dauphin Luke — Pike — Snow Birds— Journey to the
Summit of the Riding Mountain — Marshes — Ridges — Character of the Country — Whiskey Jack — Quaking
Bog — Pitching Track — Rabbits — Foot of Mountuin — Cretaceous Rocks — Plateaux — Conical Hills — White
Spruce — Brown-nosed Bear — Summit of the Riding Mountain — Character of the Country— Former
Character of the Riding Mountain — Dcimdation — Table Land — Snow Storm — Source of the Rapid River —
Indian Superstition — Descent of Riding Mountain — Character of the Mountain — Fish — Sickness — Cupping
— Ta-wa-pit — Great Bones — Grassli(ii)pers — Journey from Dauphin Lake to Lake Manitoba!) — Character of
the Country — Bogs — A>pc'n Ridges — Ridge Pitching Track — Ebb and Flow Lake — Indian Tent — Interior
of — Supper — Sleep — UuHlilo Runner — Munitobah i louse.

Tiio surface of the country where the salt springs are found is only a few feet above the level of
Winnlppiro-sis Lake, and ii|)piirciilly nearly liorizontnl for many miles inland, in n north-west course.
The barren area occupied by the Springs imil wells is about 10 acres in extent ; but llio open country,
with pi)int!i of sum)undinj; lurest converging towards the Springs, may include several hundred acres.
The trees in the vicinity consist of spruce, aspen, willow, birch, and u lew stunted oak. The wells are
five foet deep, and the water in them was 2 ft. ;> in. above the level of the lake on the 5tli of October,
us ascertained instrnmentally. The wells are found upon n slight elevation, probably nieclianically
raised by the ascending brine to about two feet above the country in the rear, which, in u southerly
direction, gently inclines and blends with a vast marsh conneclud with Moss Hiver. The woods fringing
this marsh approach within a mile of the Springs, west and north-west.

The level country extends across the peninsula from Red Deer's I'oint, about three miles in breadth,
to a deep indenlalidn of Lake \\'innepego-sis, about five or six miles broad; after which it continues
low and marshy, with tamaiac, aspvii, and white spruce woods to the foot of the Duck Mountain, a
dislaiico of IG to 18 miles. From Snake Island, and even from the level of Winnipego-sis Lake, a
few miles from shore, the country between the lout of Duck .Mountain and the Lake does not present
u single cminenci" to break the •level from which the Duck Mountain rises. It resembles, in
every important physical feature, the level tract at the Ikhc of the Uidiiig Mountain. These
observations apply only to that part vi^ible IVom .Snake Island and the lower portion of Wiiiaipego-sis
Lake.

The soil at the Salt .Springs is a very ivtenlivc yellowish-white clay, containing small limestone
boiildiis and pebbles, wiiii boulders of the uiil'ossilil'erous rocks. 'I'he wells, fin- obtaining a supply of
brine, are sunk wherever a sniall ludililiiig spring is observed to issue from this retentive clay. The
sfirings are eoii: l;iiilly changing tlu ir positioa, ami as the wells become exhausted from time to time, a
fresh excavation is made where a new spring is oliservcd to issue, .N'o donlit boring, or deeper wells,
WduM prevent thesi; changes, and not only secure a larger (low of brine, but ensure its pirmanency.
The Wells at presiiit are 25 in nmii!)er: but some of them appear to have been lately abandoned, and
others have long since ceased to yiehl brine, 'i'luy are situated lUO yards IWnii the lake shore, and
were iirsl worked 10 years since by .lames Monkmaii. This enterpri/.iog iiiilividual struggled for many
years ag/diist the importation of Kiiglisli salt, which was sold in the .settlements at a cheaper rate than
lie could all'ord to iiianulactme salt on Lake W'iiiiiipego-sis. lie has made salt at .Swuii Uiver and
Duck Uiver. The maniihictnre is now carried on willi profit li)r the Hudson's Bay Company, at ijwan
Uiver, and at \\'innipi'go-sis Lake by Monkiiian's sons.

At tliL- " Works " there are two small log bouses and three evaporating furnaces. The kettles, of Kiiglisli
ronstriiciion, are well-made rectangular vessels of iron, live feet long, two leel bro.ul, and one loot deep.
Thiy aie laid upon two rough stone walls, about 20 inches apart, which form the luriiace. At one
exlriiiiilv is II low chimney. The whulu construction is of the rudest description ; and at the close of
the seasuii the kettles are removed, turned over, and the furnace permitted to go to ruin, to be re-built
ill the rollinvliig spring.

The piocess of making salt is as follows; — ^\ hen a spring is found, a well, five feet broad and five
feet di ep, is exe.ivat(Kl, and mar to it an evaporating furnace erected. The brine from the wells is
iadlid into the kettles, and the salt .scooped out as it Ibrins, and allowed to remain fiir a short time to
tbaiii, hcl'ore it is packed in birch baik roggiiis for transportation to lied Uiver, where it commands
l'~K. Sterling a bushel, or one hundred weight of Hour, or a corresponding (piantity of fish, pcmicau, or
biilliilo meal, according to circiinistaiices.

The brine is very strong. From one kettle two bushels of salt can he made in one day in dry
Weather. There are nine ketths at the "Works,"' seven being in constant use during the suimner
season. The hall-hreeils engaged in the mannliicturc complained of the want of fuel — in other words,
of the labour and trouble of cutting down the spruce and poplar near at hand, and the dillicnlty of
hauling it to the furnaces. .\n olijection of no moment, but characteristic of some of the people, who
nre generally iiiiaceustonied to long-continued manual labour, L'lifortnnately I had no instrument
with me lor ascertaining the specific gravity of the brine, and a supply which I look to Ued Uiver for
that purpose, as well as with a view to its analysis, still remains in the settlements. It will be seen that
the processes employed in the maiuiluclurc of salt are of the rudest description, so that without any
I iitlay beyond a lew days' labour, the ipiaiitiiy might be largely increased. 1 spoke to John Monknian,
who now uiakus salt here, of pumps and solar evupoiatiuii, Ul u pump lie knew absolutely nothing. Ha

M
.M

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

105

lOUNTAIN — THE

acture of Salt —
iliin River — The
Journey to the
Jack — Quaking
:al Hills— White
'ountry — Former

Unpid Kiver—
.'kness — Cupping
ill — Character of

1 Tent — Interior

ve the level of
I'tli-wcsi course.
! open country,
Imiulrod acres.

'1'Ik" wells are
»tli of Oclober,
ly nieclinnicully

in a soutlierly
! woods fringing

liles in hreadtli,
.'li it continues
k Mountain, a
.'{{o-sis Lake, u
)c's not present
t reseniljios, in
nitain. '1 liese
\Vinnipcgo>sis

niiall limestone
II;; a supply of
ivc eliiv. I'lic

r (1

iiic to tune, a
(lei'ptr wl'II<,
H pcrnianencv.
lamloned, and
ke shore, uiid
ji^led for iiiaiiy
uper rale than
an River and
paiiy, at t>waii

lUs, of English
one lodt deep,
lace. At one
t the close of
lo be re-built

iroad and five
ihe wells is

I short time to
it commands

h, pcinicau, or

me day in dry
; the snminer

II other words,
le difliciilty of
e people, who
no instrument
Jed Kiver for

II be seen that
t without uny

III Monkinan,
I authing. lie

bad heard that sncli an apparatus lia>l I leeii contrived, but had never seen one. He leaddy eompre-
liendcd the advantage to be derived from pumping the water into shallow Iroiiyhs dug in the relenlive
clay near the springs and slrenglheiiing the brine by sidar evaporation. An Indian g'lidc, who
accompanied us up tlie Moss Kiver, assured me that all along the west coast of Winnipego-sis and
Manilubah Lakes there are salt lagoons and springs. The Indians we met on the D.iuphin Lake make
the same acknowledgiiicnt, but declined to give precise informalioii, alleging that the mannfact'ire of
salt drove away the game, and spoil their hunting.

The extent, clnvacter, and importance of llu Jsait Kegioii in Knpert's Land will be discussed at
length in another chapter,

October flth. — Left the Salt Springs, and sailed before a still' bree/o to the monlh of Moss Kiver.
Wc found four feet of water on tlie bar, and nine feet at llie mouth of the river. A low ixpnsure of
limestone occurs near the entrance, and another one mile and a half up the slreani. 'i'lie dip is very
irregular. The fossils are few in number, and obscure. In its lilhological aspect it resembles the
exposure on Snake Island, seven miles distant, in a north-east direction. Tlie rock is curved, and
fractured in places, thowiiig in an exposure 120 yaiils long and nine feet high, inclinalioiis varying
from 20° to 10° cast, with short horizontal intervals. Some of the layers are extremely hard, others
fissile, odiers crystalline, wilh crystals of calc spar betweiii the layers and in the Iracture".

We arrived at the fn>t rapids on Moss lliver during the afli'nioon. They hav(! a fall of two feet,
and consist of an accumulalion of b.inlders resiin;? on rock. The secoml rapids are lorined by similar
olistruclioiis. The river is here 120 feet broad, and very shallow. The bank, 10 feet above the
water, sustains line aspens, with a very thick undergrowth. The soil is cLiy, ami evidently li rlile near
the river, but in the re ir the country passes into muskeg. In aseemling the secinid lapids, the boat
bad to be lighlened, aiid hauleil np by ihe men walking in the middle of the stieain. The temperature
for such work was not eiiodueive lo comfort or health, and two of die men e.uight severe colds, with
cramps and pain in their limbs.

October 7lh. — A sharp frost during the night. Ice formed on the oars in the morning. Tempera-
ture of air, at H a.m., 30° ; of the river, -i'i". The ihermoineter during the night fell to 20°.
All (he leaves arc now fallen, and the country presents a very dreary appearance. The whole of the
day w.is spent in rowing or Hacking up M<iss Itiver. The bank conlinnes from 12 to l.» feet high,
and siisiains .some very fine aspens, 12 to 1 j inches through, with a dense growlli ofyoiing Ines
s|)riiiging up in the place of a former line aspen forest, of which the l.iige tir<s aie llic riinaiiis. The
river cuiliiiiiis very shallow, and conlaiiis many boulders of the iinlossilHi rinis roeks,

Tlieie is a large area ol'good land on the west si,|o ne.ir to Daupliin Lake, wliieh secluded sheet of
water «i; entered at I p.m., and came at oiiee in sight of ihe Killing .Moiinlaiii in front and the
Duck MoiMilain on our right. IJolli are very imposing ranges IVom this point of view, pieseiiling
siinll.ir a^prets ; liolli rising iVoni a level comilry, a few liet aliove Daujiliin Lake; and, as far as the
lye could judge, lio'.h maintaining the same elevalion, and presenliiig abrupt wocmIiiI escar|)iiients
lowiirds the ea^l. They are separated by Valley Kiver, and it is apparent that they were, at one epoch,
united, liirming part ol' the gnat lalile-land whieli sirelehes south-westwards lowani llie (iiaiid Coteau
de Miss iiiri. — (.SVc Sirtioii uliiiiij /In- .>1.nV />,;;■((//'/, aiiil in tlir ilinclioii nf llir ilothil till'- nit tin- (irti/ni/iiiit

In the evening we passetl the inoiilh ol the \ alley, or Dauphin Kiver, or /I -ic«-/i-ii')if-.<i(//c, and
e.imped on a biaiilifiil beach, widi a lew line oaks growing upon a ridgi' close lo the water's edge.

On thi' follow iiig morning we stiirteil at daylii^ht for a part of the coast nearest to the Kidiiig
Mount. (in. At a distance this magnifieent range appears to be clothed with forest, and lo rise from a
level plam lo the height of about HOO feel above the level of Dauphin Lake.

.\s sron as we arrived opposite to what appeared to he the highest part of llie range, we landid, aiul
despalelied an Indian lo esplore the couiilry, and report on liie nature of the s»anips we should have
to p iss in alteiiiprnig lo reach the suniinil. Doling his abicnee Wi' >et nets, and levillid acr<is'> the
1 idgii whieli separates ihe lake from an extensive fertile iiieadi' which lies lulween it and ihe
niiiuiitain. The ridi;e is S!Mi feel above the present level of D.iuplnn Lake; the meadow, ."j-ti> feet;
anil so coiiiinuis lor a distance of one mile, »itb an almost impercepliiile rise iiiilil a second low ridge
is leaehed. The meadow is covered with long, luxuriant grass; a lew elmnps of piipl.ir .nid ihiekits
ol' willow v.iry its iinilorinily. There are, no iloiilil, many thousand acres of e.xeelleiil hay ground on
the banks ol Dauphin Lake, liiil the briaillh (f the tract ilid not appear to exceed two miles. The
oak. on the ridges, oeiiirs in patches, and the Ireis are I'rorii I? to l.j inches in (liameter.

Dauphin Lake is 21 miles long, has a greatest breadth of i'J miles, and an area of 170 square
miles. Its app'oximale elevation alioie the level of die sea is 700 feel, or 72 feet above Lake
W innipeg. it is very shallow.

Our nets produci'd (:ve splendid pike, weighing about L") pounds each.

At the close of the ilay the Indian icuirned. lie had adv.ineed to the first yieat ridge, about nine
miles distant, and reporuil 18 inches of water in the swamps, with ice a (piarh r of an inch thick.

Snow-birds were seen lor the liist time during the afternoon. They came about our camp in large
Hocks, but they .lid not appear to have tpiite assumed llieii winter dress. The evening and part of llie
night Were apent in making arrangements for an ascent of the Hiding Mountain. We look provisions
for four day-, a blanket (or each man, with a good supply of guns and ammunilioii. Three of the
men were left in charge of the boat, with inslrnctions to cure all the lisli they eonld take, as the ilanger
of being arrested by ice in Lake Manitobah was not improbable. That large body of wa:er has been
known lo freeze as early as the •J.")lli of October.

At sinirise on the morning of the Ulli of Oclober, we set out for llie ascent of the Killing Mountain.
Kacli mail had a pack weighing about :10 poniuls. My share consisted of a sledge hammer for geological
purposes, which proved lo be an extremely inconvenient article tu carry across swamps or through

( :»'

106

UKl'OllTS OF TIIK ASSINNIBOINE AND

l)ii-.liL's. Once, iiuk'id, wlii'ii crossiiif,' II ciimkiiix-li(ii.', Willi (lie liaiiiiiu'i' on my hlioiildi'i, 1 ivccivutl a
M'ViTi' lilinv (III llic liiic'k dl' tin; licail as I briiko lliniiigli llic coviiiiiff of moss oviT wliicli \vc Wtl'U
|ilisliiiii>' (iiir stc'i

111(1 I'lidcavoinvd to fall Hal on tlu^ s|ii'in>;y siirfai'c.

I''('r llic (ii>l mile and a lialf tlif country is (luitc level

ly, with the exception ot llirec narrow

f till

I'hc soil is (xcelleiit, and tlie hay abiiiKliiiit: but no doubt in spriii}; this extensive

r. 111 its present eondition, tli<
I alliii'ds is veiv luxuriant and aliiiiidanl. We soon arrived at a low ridi^c, which murks the

shallow iiiii^he--.

flnt Miiisl be verv wet, and probably to a coiisideiiible exieiil under wate

ii.i^tiira^e i . .,

limit ol the fjoiid land, not aveiiijiiiij,' more than two miles from Diiiiphin Lake. 'I'o the ridf^e succeeded
marches and willow brakes. These were lionnded by low gravelly ridjjes, clothed with aspen, wiiicli
were ajj.iin succeeded by marshes.

I'iiiiliiii,' it (piile impossible to oiitilaiik the marshes, which appeared to stretch from river to river
dci-eendiiifi; Irniii the mimntaiiis, and to be c()-(Xleiisive with the sliores of the lake, we detciiniiied to
push ihroiijdi to the higlusl peak, which was in reality the iiearesl point of the mountain to lis, its
(greater altitude beiii;,' only appareii* on nccoiiiil of its proximity, as we afterwards asceitained. In nil
hour we arrived at a white spruce swamp, in which many (ine trees, fully IH inches in diameter, were
observed, rM\iiiid the while spruce swamp we came to all old lak. ritljie, about 1.5 lli'et above the
jfeiieral level, iiiiiiideil, and composed of limtslone gravel, with many b(,iil(lers of the niifossiliferoiis rocks
on the south or land side.

This rid"!' resembled the Wiif Uid^e of the Assinnilioine in most particulars, Onr Indian guide told
us thai it eNti iided fcu' many (lays journey north and soiilli of Dauphin Lake. It forms the Indian
pitcliinL': track, al the foot of the liiding .Mountain.

The term '• |iit('hiii}f tr;iek " is applied to an liidinn trail from one part of the connlry to aiiotiier.
W'esi of Lake Maiiitobah, Dauphin Lake, and \\iiiiiipei;ii-sis Lake, the "pitchinj; track '' follows the
ridiie descrdud in the icsi. It is, in fact, the main and only dry ro.iil in this region. On the crest of
the ridi^c iIk re is a narrow well-worn path, which, liii many i;;eneraiions probably, has been the highway
ofllie Indians passiiifi; from Lake Manilobah to the Assinniboine, lhi(Uigh the valley of 7'i-«v/-^'-H()H'-
sn/ii; or "1 he river that divides the h'lls." This j)lteliiii,i; track is iiiaiktd on the map as '• .Scridi t)ak
" and .\spen Ki(lj;e." It is (•<iiinect((l with 'The Uidjje pitching Hack," between Kbb and Flow Lake
and D,iU|iliiii Lake.

The \\'lii»ky .lack is nmiieroiis on the Sciiili Oak ltid,';i', and in the Spruce .Swamp were several
ravens. I'oruiidable marshes suec( ed the riilije. M'e wa(l((l kliie de( p I'oi half a mile, and then rested
liu' a sliiu'l lime on a ^mall island, on which stunted aspens grew. We continued to pass ihrollgh
niai^hes, asjieii islaials, and over low ridges elollnd with willow, iiiilil a bog of such a (piakiiig character,
and of siieh gieal breadih, pri seined itself, that the men demanded a smoke before attempting to cross.
( )ur ( fiibw.iy half-bred, W igwain, in»isled upon canyinu the sledge hamnier in addilimi lo hi-- pack,
diclariiig thai lie was aeeustiaiied to (jnaking bogs, and we should have enough to do to gi t across,
wilhout eanying aiiylliiiig lb it might impede our progress. The surfr.ce ol'llie bog coiisisteii of a thick
elastic covering of mews, Millicienily tough to bear our weight when passing (piickly over it, but if we
slopped lt>r miae than half a minute, the moss slowly sank, and a pool ol water collected anmnd lis.
We inarched or latlii r trolltd in siiiLile file, about ten yards ap.irl. The Indian who took the lead
pas-ed nimbly over the sin lace, so also did ihe liail-bKcds ; .\lr. I'lemiiig and I, however, two or three
times bri'ke llii'oiigh with one leg, but siiceeedi d in withdrawing the unfoilimate member withoiil
linther damage- than iiiimeision in water and mud, emiltiiii.; a very unpleasant odour. Occasionally we
rested (III a narrow sirip where the langlei! roots of a ti w willnws alliinled a liriii footing. The bi'eadlh
of this bog was about one mile win re we cros-ed : it was succeeded by a belt of tall reeds, growing; in
wuhr one loot (fep; plunging and wadiii,' through llii.s, we arrived at a jfeiitly sloping ridge, about |8
leel ill altilude. On the olhd side of tl is i idge a narrow deep swamp sepal ated ii> (Voiii tin.' foot ofllie
iiiiMinlain ; wading diroiigh it. we ascended a hill about -it) feet high, and found ourselves upon a drv
plale.ui, (.11 whii'h we detdinined to camp, having accomplishi d a distance ol about II niile.s. The nan
soon dispersed lo liiinl rabbits; a do/en were killed in a few minutes, skinned, and placed on sticks
before the (ire to roast.

In passing ihrnngh the swain|is we saw many fresh moose trai k-, hiinlei.'' signs, which aroiise(; the
Indians and hall-broils to a high pilch of excilemeni, and caused them lo steal swiftly on iheii wet and
treaelieioiis path with a spud which we tiiund it very diHieiilt to maintain, although liny enteltained no
hope of coining uitliiii shot ol such noble game, in conseipieiiee ol an iinliivourable wind, even if we had
been able to pn serve ihc necessary silence in p.issiiig tlirou;;li the haunts of this wary animal.

The limber on the hill at the fiiot of th( mountain consists of aspen, with a few small oak. The soil
on the plateau is of excellent (jiiality. and the iinderbrush verv luxuriant.

The iiiglit pidinising lo be very cold, ice liirming on the kettles williin a few yards ol the camp, we
built two large tires and slept between them, having previously thiid our wet dollies as far as eirciim-
staiices Would |ieriiiil. .\t H p.m., the sky was (piite free from clouds ; the comet shone with brilli.iiii
lustre, a Hashing ain'ora gradually spread over the iiurtherii sky, the stars shone like diamonds in the
south, and the whole heavens assumed that aspect of silent beauty which renilers night in the wilderness
sii impressive and sublime.

Octolier inth.-- Soon after breakfast we arrived al a steep eiiibanknient about 711 feet high, which
I'ernied the lermin.ilion of a plateau abuul a mile broad, covered with small aspens, and threaded with
Moose paths. 'I'he plateau ascends very gradually, and is abruptly bounded by a hill bank, lidin which
a bidkdi hilly tract rises towards the escarpiiieni, which lornis the eastern limit ofllie Kidilig Mountain.
'I'bis broken tract is coveied with aspens and spruce of large si/e, especially in the hollows, We crossed
the beds ol twd or three slreams, which Mowed through deep gullies lo the plain below. So fiir, the .soil
coiisisied of drill day, with many large boulders in the beds of the rivulets; but at an altitude of alMiut
nil) Itet above Dauphin Lake we arrival at a dill-hke exposure ol (.'retaceoiis rocks, throiigli which a

SASKATCHEWAN EXl'I.ORING KXPKDFTION.

107

dtroiim had cut a cliiiiincl TO to HO fW-l (lrc|). 'I'licso mcks sufinod Id form llic IhiiiihIhi v nl' n iliird
nliileaii, on which imtc niinu'i'diis coiiiciil liills, nlllsi^till<; of ^nivol niid hitildci's nl' ilic (iiilii'-sillli'i'iiiK
rockc. The slnitifii'iilioii nppcnrod to ho nciirly horizoiiliil, wiih ii vcit slif^lit dlj) lo the sinih-wrsi.
Althoii>^h n careful sciirch wiis made for orffaiiic reimiiiis, viry few were iIImmivi red. 'Hies,' wiii'
idciilicul witli ihiise round on tho Lilllu bouris, and in cveiy pailicuhir, except the occni reiice ni' lunds
holding; IllDCeramiin, the rocks on the Uidin/; Mountain rcseinhled the expii-'Ures on iln' I.iiile Smiiis.
The hivers containing; rerrn!;inous concielions were found, as well as a soft lliiii h ind, ftoin wliieli the
Indians make iheir pipes. The total thickness of the exposure exceeded IOC feet.

We now followed a moose path until -wc arrived at a hi){h conical hill, which promised a liiir %iew
of (he surroundiiiJ{ country. Haviufj reached tho summit, the relation of the coiiicid hills and pluieiiix
became evident, A wide deep valley separated us fi'om the lahle-hind of the Itiiliii^ Monriliiin, ahout
one mile distant hi an air line, and perhaps aUO feet ahove us. Three plaleaux were distiiielly visd)|i'
heliiw us; a rau){0 of conical hills, the result of atmospheric .i<{eiicies, lay at the foot of ihe piicipilon-.
escarpment of the mountain, and followed its fjeneral direclion. Lime^t()ne and unlo-sililerous liouhli r--
were sireivn on the summits and flanks of the weather-worn hills, while in the hollow-, heiweeii iheni,
small lakes lay halfcoiiceaicd hy a (inc forest of while spruce and aspins. From the lirow of the hill where
wc stopped to dine the Indian shot a lari,'e brown-nosed bear, which suddenly appeared on the plaieau
below us idiout 70 yards from our camp fu'e. His skin was in ^ood condition, and reiii:irl<dilv liand-
some ; the annual mifjht weiffh ll.)0 lix., allhoufjii not yet fat. I.tavinij ihne men t(p eul up and
prepare the meat, we commenc 'd the last ascent, and airivcd at the summit of the l{idini{ Momitain al
thn-e in the afteriu)nn. The last ascent was very abrupt; it consisted of a sleep I'scarpment of drifl clay
with l)oulders, covered with a fine white spruce, birch, and aspen forest. At the foot of the escarpment
were ponds or small lakes, which feil the mountain sli jams we had crossed.

The view from the siuemit was superb, enabliiif; the eye lo lake in thi' whole of Dauphin Laki' and
the inlerveniiij{ country, lo^ether with part of \Viiuiipef;o-sis laike. 'ihe outline of the IJuck
.Mounlain rose clear and blue in the nortli-easi, an I lioui (un' point of view the Itidiii^ an<l Duck
Mountains appeared continuous, and |mserved a uniform, bohl, |)reei|)ilous outline, ri^ini; aUruplly
from a level country lying from 800 to 1,0110 feet below them. T'li' swan)|)s du'nuj^h which wc had
passed Were mapped in narrow ships far below; tlity showed by their connexion wilh the rid;j;rs,
and their p.irallelism lo Dauphin Lake, ih.il tiny had been Ibnned by ils lelri alii.jj; wati rs. The
ancienl beach l)elbre mtiuiimdl, as exlen<lin<r liu' to the norlh aial MMit>i, could be liaccd with a Lilas-,
by the iiees it sustained, until lost in ihe distance; il followed the contour of the hike, whose form was
again d('lermine<l by the escarpment of die itidiii}; iMiMinlain. It recpiired no elforl of the iinagiiiatioii
lo ire.ill the time when the whole of ihe tial couiitiy below n-. towards the I.anrelilidus on llu' ea-t
hide of Lake W'iiinipeg, ^as occupied with the conlinualiou of the Uidini; and Duck Mounlain raiii^e,,
and when the ('relaceous series, superimposed in patches hy ierliiiy rock-^, exleiided lo the basin ol'
Lake \\ innipr<r as il now is. Tlie whole of ihis imuieiisi' tleiiiidi'd IrucI of coiniliy is a splendid
instaiiee oftlit power ol water and ice to remove many thoiisand enliie miles of rock.

It seems very prob.ible that before ihe Honlder Drift ptriod, the ch.iin of niounlains hcL^iniiinL; with
Turtle .Mounlain, near the I'JxU parallel, and teriniaallni; uiih the Porcupine and Itasipiiii liaiigcs,
ineludini; the liidinu and Duck Mountains, wen' pari of a hiudi l.ible land, composed of C'letaeeoiis and
I'll liary locks, which exleiidid fiom ihe Cirand (. otiau <le .Mis-ouri to ihe Lamenlides. Ihe areas
mosi iillicled by denndalioii are now oceiipiid liy Laki> VViniiipei;, Mauilobah, W Innipego-sis, mid the
valliys of their Iribiilaries; die piecipitons eastern cscirpiiienl of ihe iiuinnlaiiis show ihe action of
oceanic ni;eu(ii s lo which they wdiilil le <lireclly exposed, if the couiiliy were submiiLHil lo more than
LOOO liel, and from the d :slrilii:iii>'.i of boiililers there can be no (pnslicai that a siibiiierneiice lo a
liir yrealii exieni has liikiii place since the 'I'erliary epoch. The connexion of lliese iaiii;>.s will be
best seen by an inspection of the map.

Ihe occurrence of drift and boulders of die unlo^sililirous rocks on the summit of ihe liidiny
Mounlain provis that this porlion ol the eounlry was snbaieri;ed lo an exttiil exceeding I, TOO leel,
thai Iieini; die average allilude of the raiiire above the ocean.

The '.iiiimiii ol die Kidiiig Moun:.iiii is a va'-t table land diclining in steps to the .\>sinniboine. I he
forest which covers iIh' upper plaieau consist^ of Vny fine while spruce, birch, poplar, and aspen; die
iliiiu iisions of some of die trees about our camp aie niveii on page "Jli. Soon after our .irrival at llie
suminil clouds began to gather in Iroiu die uoith-Mcs!, and towards evening a Miow storm set in, which
eontiniuil duiing die gieater poi tioii ol die night, lienealh the shelter of die overhanging liranelus of
a spruce we iii.ule an i xcelleiil c.iinp, and having iiiiilt a roaring fire, soon found ourselves coniloi tiiblv
suppiiii; on bear steaks as we reclined on a couch of spruce lioughs, uiiiler a roof impenetr.dile to snow,
coustriicled of the s.mie excelleni material.

October llth. — When morning dawiietl we found die country covered with u manlle of snow, six
inches deep. Ibis did not prevent us from making a traverse in the direction of the lakts from which
the [Lipid Kivir lakes its rise. The coulee we had taken led us, as was allerwards ascerlaineil, lo
wilhiii a few miles of die spot reachcil by Mr. Dickinson when he ascended the valley of Uapid Itivi r,
a tew weeks before. I'his was precisely the result I was anxious to attain. An inspection of the map
will show that our explorations, when combined, passed through a comparatively unknown counliy,
nearly along the tOOlh degree of longitude west ot Greenwich, and sirelehiug Iroiii the .'')'.^iid lo tliu
4-!tth parallel of latitude; thus embracing part of Winnipegosis Lake, Moss lliver, Dauphin Lake,
the Hiding .Mountain, lliu Lillle Saskatchewan or Uapid Uiver, and the Little 8ouris, to the lllth
parallel

Our progress to the south was soon arrested by a hike, and the lateness ol the season made it
advisable not to linger too hing iu this region, lest wc should be arrested by ice forniing in the great
lakes beluw. Anxious to kill u muu.se, I endeavoured to persuade the Indi.in to follow a fu>li track,

O 2

i J

108

HKl'OH IS OV Till-: ASSINNmOINK AND

l>ut III' (li'cl^rtil lliiit till' iiiiiiinlaiii was lull urdi'viN, iiiiil iliiil tlio grizzly l>oar was not uiifr<''iiieiillv met
witli, si> tliat 11(1 |H'r>uiisiiiii oMiM liidiu'i' liliii to li>lliitv the truck iiiiIcsh a liall'-liivcil a<Tiiiiipaiiii(i liiiii.
Till' sKv ami .lil' I'l'i'oiiiiii'^ (|iiiti' lire 1111111 clnmls anil niist liiliiri^ III a. in., Uf woiv cnalilctl to taki-
Ihariniis of ililVrri'iit piiHiniiriit piiiiil-i. /Mli'i' iiii'iisni'ini; a iiiiinlii'r of trees in lli'' iu'i<;lil)iiiii'lio(>(l of

oiii' eaiii|i( ue eiiniiiuiu'iil to letiaee oni' steps at noon. I lie eonr'<e lolloweil was a liltle to the lelt ol
«nr tiaek on llie piieedin^' ilay, ami llie t'ollouhifr rougli istiiiiatu of tlic ascents, ilesceiits, and dis-
tances were c^nefillje iinled.

Till' liist disci III from tin" snininil is alioiil ti.'iU feet deep, and very precipitous; wliere the Mioiv hail
not loiljTiil, lionldeis were seen reposiiij^ on iinsliiililied clay and i^ravel ; a narrow (^idlv is tlieii crossed,
and nil aseenl of 10 lei t inaile to a :n i.iie slop! 1 11; tciw arils llie ensi ; on lliis Irir.ue 11 re I lie con leal liills
liefore nllndi'd lo. The descilit eoi.liiillis for a fiirllier depth of 150 feet in a dislanee of half a mile,
this liriiii.dll n- to the eil^e of a laviiu' 70 liil deep. At the holtoni (lows a small stream over gravel
inul lioiilders. ,\ rise of 30 leet le.l ns lo the lop of ihe oppoile hank, ailing which we travelled, nntil
we eanii' lo ils terinin ilioii at iIm' lie:>iiiniii<; of a second li riiice ahoiit HO feel helow lis. This narrow
t ilile'lniid is consiipieiitly IHO feet liilovv the smnniit, and on it we found the second riin^je of conical
hills. \ ^iMihial desci III for a ipiarler of a mile loweiiil 11s alioiit 30 feet; we then asceo'led a hank
lihoiit 'iO leet hi^li, and liniiid oiivseives on llie ed;|e of a prceipiloiis descent l.")0 feet deep, which
hroiiuht us lo the third terrace, and to the edi;e .if a r.ivine (iO feel deep. ( >ii the sides of tlio ravine, and
far aliovo it, exposures of crel.iceoiis rocks were sei n ; the highest spot where llie rock was ohservei',
ill posiiion, is prohahly lielweeii 100 and .'lOO feet lielow the siininiil, or ahoiit 501) feet aliovo Danpiiin
Lake. A snddeii diseeiil of I'iit feet llieli occurred, which hroiejhl us lo a foi'irtll terrace, hoiinileil liy
a sleep hank, lo which succeeded a i^enile slope, and llien a low riil'je where we had formed our camp
on the !l|li. We anivid dure wel, cold, and iiiiconiforlalile; the ti iiip> raliire was iniicli lii|rher lliaii
on the nieniitaii:, and diniiii; tin: day the snow of ihe previous iili;hl had enlirely dis.ippeaied, as we
descended, hii. .1 dreiiehiiij; rain in-tiail proaiised a very di>a^ieiaMe ni^lil, as we could find no friendly
S|iruce near at li.iiid lo alliird >lielter an. I proleelion.

Tiu-silay, Ocloher I'Jlh. The yreaUr p.irt ol' this I'ay was spiiil in ruraciiii^ our steps lo D.inpliin
Lake. The walk ihrou^h the niarslns and h.es w.is found lo he more falii^uiii'; than iluriii'^ our
iiscenl, in cuiisKpieiiee of r.iiii and ihe iee-cuM waler in ihe sivainps. Two of the nun complained of
rheiiuiatie pains, and were iucipaMe of iloini; any work upon llieir arrival at the e.oiip in ihe aliernoon.
Diiriiii; onr ahsi nee the nun lell al D.iiiplnM |,;die had m'I ihe iiel., and caii^hl sniiie line pike. I'he
piecipililion which h.ul oceiirnd on th>' Kiiiini; Mounlani in the form of snow, w.is heie a dii/:liii:;
rain, which a^aiii coiiniKneed soon alier our arrival, and eoiitinueil ihroiiijiiout the ni<{lil. On the
follow iiii; moriiiii;^ (>ne of our hest liall-hreeds was seriously ill, he coinplaiiieil of cxcrnciatinir pains in
the head and linilis; he fuund, however, };reat relief from euppin^', which the Indian performed wi'h
a Hint and howl of a lohacco-pipe. At noon Ui; Marled in the lioat tiir an Indi.in enc.iiiipincnl at the
west eiul of the lake, alioiil si\ miles dislanl, Here we found Ta-wa-pil. an old Ojihway, with two
sous and their ivives and children. II ivin^r made arrani;eineiils with Ta wa-pit for ihu hire of two
horses and a Liuiile lo cross die country lo Manilc hah House, Mr. I'lemiiii; took <li:\ri;e of die hoat, lo
relurn liy Mo«-. liiver, while I ninainid wiili one hall-lincd lo make tin' I iiid juuiney loiinil the south
side of Dauphin L.ik" lo the Conipaiiy's pnsi mi Lake .M.niiloh.ih, which was lo he our leiide/mus.

DclolKr I llh. — T.i-wa-pil stayed (luiiiii; the nieater p.nl of ihe nii^lil hy our caiup-liri', lalkiii;; willi
the hall-hieeil, smokini; and iliinkiiii; lea. Ih' pointi'd oiil the sp.il near lo us «heie he was accustomed
to lake sail fniin the eil;;e» of a .-priiif; during llie suiiniier iiioiilhs. lie descrihed also at hiinth the
appiar.iiue anil viiluisof some eiuanlie hones ix posed in the hank of \ alley IJivir near where it
cuts ihuiiiLlh ihe old Lake ltidL;<'. 1 a-wa-pil c.ills iluse Iioihs a ^il'eat niedieiue, and, coiilrarv to the
Usual cusloni of the Indian^, he now and then takes sinall fnii^uu ills, hiiiisrs I hem to powder, and uses
ihein as a metlicinal pn paiMlion. I'loin his de^eriplion 1 inler ill, it the hones are those of a maiuinoth ;
Ills rouuli drawlni; in the sand of the rihs and teeth corresponded, in poiiil of diiiKiisioiis wiih those of
that |;i){anlic animal.

Ta-wapit and laniily live a veiy relired lite on llie slimes of Dauphin Like. I lie old man is
cvideiillv of a mi-anlhropie turn ol mind; he does not as^oeiale with oiher inihaiis who hunt and live

Ml
the sp

Kiver and thi' noilhern pail of the lake. Ills potatoes, of which he planlid a small p.itcli ill

vere conipli Illy ilesliojeil hy f;rasslioppers, 1

ailiirdiiiL; another proof ol the iniii

iieiise ranee

dev.i^l.iliii^ progress of these insects in Uiiperl's Laud diiriiit,' the past two or three years
'i'a-w.i-pil showed me a knife he had made out of an old file, and some pipes he was makiiif; lliiiii a soft
shale, iirocured ill the Itidiiii; M
all les

oiinlain some miles soulh-west of his leiil.

•||

to a hand 1 had noliccd 011 the little .So

111 the exposure jiist dcsc

le shale was similar in

IS iiccinrnii'

rilieil

'K'

(„i the ll.uik of the .Mounl.iin, and from wliieli the half-hreeds had taken small hlocks to make pipe
A coujile of pounds of hiick shot, which I divided itmoii^ the olil inun and his .sons, di liLfhlcd them
•aMire; in return for this welcome present, Ta-wa-pit presented niu with a new pipe and the

illtli' of;
■lli(

lip {{rows 111

ijieat I

iiMiriance a

ml ahi

iK'e at the soiilli end of Dauphin Lake; there is fine

pastnra<i;e as far as the old lake ridire, hut the narrow si ri|is of marsh and (piakinir hoj; aliiuist on a level

illi :hi' dry portion show that these extensive flals are lialile to he suhmer^jeil in the spriii

Our course to-dav followed tiir a few miles the shore of the lake until we ca

to Tiirlle Kiver ;

li oiii^ cros.sed this iillluent from the Itidiiiir Moimlain in a small caiiue, we took an easterly direction
and entered a dreary re>;ioii of swamp, ridj^e, and (piakin<; liofr. l)urin)r the whole of the ullcrnoon our
course lay thidiij;li niarsh.s and hogs, separated hy low ridges covered with as|
cjuile useless, and frequently stuck last; when this occurred we we

overt'!
com

Til

e horses were

pelled to carry the hcddiiig and
provisions to the nearest ridge and help the wretched uniiiials ihruugli the deep hogs into which tliev
Blink lit every step, breaking through tliu elastic covering of moss which wiis generally of sutKcieiit

inri'<''iiirtitly met
'('(iinpiiiiii.il liiiii.
I'lialilcd til tiikf

L'i^lllllllll'lllKlll III'

If to Iho loll of
•sci'iils, and (li>.-

I'l- till" Miinv liiiil
is llicii n-ossiJ,
till' niniciij hills
' lit' liall' II mill',
lain iivrr jjravi I
: travi'lk'd, niilij
'I'liis iianow
raiifji' III' fiiiiical
isri'M'ii'ij a liank
i'l't iU'i'|>, wliioli
' llif raviiii', am!
k was oiisvrvfil,
alioVH I)aii|iliiii
ici', Imiiniloil by
iriiiel our i'aiii|)
icli lii^rlii'i' I hail
ip|)i'aiV(l, as we
liiiil no Iricnilly

^ps III D.iiipliiii
liati (liii'iii!; iiiir

I niinpljiiu'tl III'

II I III' arii-i'iiKon.

liiii' piki', riiL'

K'H' 11 (lliz rlilli,'

iiifilil. On ihc
.'iatiii;; pains in
pi'iriii'Mii'il wi'ji
inpiiii'iit lit lliu
lnvay, uiih two
lie liiic (if two
III' till- Imal, 111
iiiiiiil iIk' siiiilli

l'luli'/llll|...

I', lalkiiij; wiili

vas aciiMiiiiMil
at liiiijlli the
iii'.ii' will re It
iiilraiy In iIil'

vili'i', and lists
t'a niaiiinuith ;

S Willi llio^e 111'

II' nil! man is
ininl ami livi'
mall palcli hi
inmi'iiM' ranmr
lliiiv yi'ai-^.
nj,' riiiiii a soli
"as similar in
(1 as iicciii rill;;
to make pipes,
"ililtlilnl iheiii
V pijiL' anil the

tlici'e is fin.'
lost on a level

rmile llivi r ;
Icily tlircctioii
itlleinoon our
o horses «eru
e> heildiiig anil
lo which they
y <•!' sufficient

SASKATCIIFAVAN RXPLORINO KXPFOITION.

109

Rti'PiigtIi to support n mini nini ' •.- Ii){litly over it, liut not lonacions onoii!{li to hear the wiii^ht of ii

liiirsr, Jnst as night elosuil in :■ rriveil iit a dry ).',l'iivellv riiljje when- there was a plenlil'iil supply
■• II r. i.:_i I . „ ;.... r. l '.. .i_; ..i ..1...1 1 1.1 ...1... 'i>i _

t clolhi

III ileail ns|ic'n, li'om wliicli we ii.itilj n I'liin'in;^ fire anil soon drieil oiir wet elollii's anil DlaiiKi'ts, 1 he
nielli was liittei'ly cold, and the cxfi'tion of wiidiii<r liir many hiiiirs toict'tliir thioiiirh ice-cold water
caiisi'd every limb to ache ; the Indian f^nidc tlioi|i{lit n(ithiii;r of jt, mid immediately alter supper liiy
down beliire the lire and was soon smnid asleep. Two or three ti'iies in the iii^lit I rose to replenish
the fire and riimiil the Indian without any ci)verin<{ lint the wet skin clutlirs he liad worn dm itiir the
day, ciirlt'd up on the hare ground mid riijoyiiiK prot'onnd sliimlier.

I'^arlv oil the rollowinir iiiiiriiin'.r we arrived at the Itid^^'e I'liihinir track, wliicli we 'jimtiinu'd to
follow lor a lew miles, and lliin a;.;aiii discend'd into a rej^ion of swamps and (piiikiiif{ liof^s. In nu
respect does the ltid^'>' l'ilcliin<; tr.ick lictweeii Dauphin l.iike and I'jlih and Flow Lake difl'er from the
Mig llidf^e of the Assiiinilioine except in altitude. It is almiit lOII yards across, evenly rounded,
ooinposeil III' gravel, and covered to a great extent with the heiirlierry. On either hIiIc are sin, ill oal -i
and a>pi'ns, succeeded by iii'II'sIk's. Its idliluile nhove the marsh is about 15 feet. The guide said it
liirmed iiii eslension of the ridge on White Mud Itiver (hserilieil in Chapter VII.; and if this be the
c.isi', no better ineaiis of coinmnnication by land with this part of tliu country could be found lliiiii the
Kidge I'ilching track.

Siion alter leaving this excpllpn: road we stuck fast in a (piakiiig bog about uiie mile broad. The
jiorses were mired, and it was only ly tlint of the greatest exertinii and much cruel beating that the
Imlian and hall'-brei'd siicceedeil in getting them on to dry land. In the alleriioun we arrived at Crow
I'rei'k, and the coiiiitiy becoming drier, we were enabled to make better f<rogress. .M'ler passing
Sucker Creek, which, with the stre.imlet before named, flows sluggishly in a trench about Id feet deep,
we arrived at a small open prairie surrounded with tall iispiii wonds, and coveied with a splendid crop
of wild hay. Here we met an Indian who was selling traps, the hnmiiig season having idieady com-
menced, lie invited us to his lent, wliieh was placed nil the shores of I'.bli and I'low Lake, not more
th;iii I'i or I I' miles from Maiiilobah Ilnii-e. It turned out tliiil the hall'-bieed with me knew the
Indian will by repnlalioii ; he is one of the most successful and indiisirioiis hiinlers in this part of the
lake iii;iiiii. His tent was well supplied wiili Iiiili in liixni ii s, siieli as tea, tobaccii, anil coal se clotliing.
Ill the small piaiiie- near us weie seveiid line bnltlilo rmnieis; uinl if Indian habits and (.nsUuns would

peniiil iif the aeeiimulaliiiii iirwiallli, our host iiiighl si

lion oecdine a 1 leh iiiii

His ti'iil was III brill b.irk, riiiimy .iiiil clean. Thiilie.i persons, iiielndiiig chilili'eii, squalled round
e lire in the eeiitie. On the lliior smiie i.\cilleiil in.illiii;; w.is laid ii|iiiii spiiiee liiiiiglis liir the

the Ii

strangers; the sipuiws sipialled on the bare ground ; the father of the family on an old bufralo lob
Atlaclieil to the pales of the ten' were a ;;nn, liiiws and arrows, a spear, and some mink skins. .Suspended
on cross pieces over the fire were fishing nets and floats, clothes, and a bunch of the bearberry to mix
with Uiiiiu'co fur the maiiiifiicture of kinni-kiiinik.

Nieii after we entered the sqiiaw beg.iii lo prepiue supper, which was done by boiling white-fish and
piilaliies logelhi r. When cooked the whole was poured inlii a large tin dish and handed

tiigilher Willi a cup ol lea.

elpinjf liivsi

If, I

lasseil llie ilMi

111 llie Imlian, Inn lie l.iiij ii al Ills feet.

As sDiiM M^ 1 had liiiislud my siijiper llie Imlian In Iped liiiiMlf and llie li.ill-biei d. :'iid ihrii pas>eil llie

«li l(

siiiiaw, w

ho divided the rem.iiiider aiiinng the olhir inmales nllhe ti iil. 'I liese cimsisled of

iiclili

restli'ss

Indian wuiiiaii, llie mnlfer of the misiievs of llie leiil ; 11 newly niarried couple
Imlian u'liiile I' iHii Dauphin Like; ^iid live cliililren. .M'ler >iipper I spread

i< liili d to iiiir host ; the India

mv blaiikel and lav down, ipiile uveKiiiiie uilli the long C'.iiiliiiued exirlion nf w.iiliiig ll

and ipiaking Imn.

iriiiigli swamp-.

bill t.i

ll 111

'1 he half-breed

Iiidi.ins '^al talking liir iiiaiiv liunrs beliiru

they Imneii then leit lo llie fire, rolled llieinsilves up in a blanket, and seemingly iil once " found

sle

Oil ll

follow;

mul'illli'' l'.i|iii

llv

ni.irniiig I lusc "illi a few aches and pains, which the succeeding events of the

die

\fl' r liieakliist mv Imli.in host n

flered

me a lavi.mile

lalo runner to

III Ml

111

'I'll!

rlieiiinilie sympioms.

le exirlioii reipiued to manage this animal soon leinoved all unpleasant

er ixiraorilinarv simaei

ly is elsewhere related (C'hapler Xll.), lint her

ividenily formed nf sole le.iiher, and not iimeiialile to persuasions admiinslered ihrongh an Indian
briille. I he country on tlii- i.hore of Llili and I'low Lake is low, but well filled for a limited settle-
liienl. 'I liei'v is an idinndant supply nf aspen limber, wiili a few oak and birch. I arrived at Maiiilolmb
House .Mion al'ler noon, and was cordially received and hosjiilably eiUeriained by Mr. Mackenzie, the
"enlleman in charge.

CHAl'THll XI.

.M,\NITI>imi IIUL'.SK TO .M.VNI roll.^ll ISLAND .M.XNITOUAII ISLAND TO OAK

'Mil': SKTTI.KMKNTS ON till) ItlVKII.

I'OINT — OAK I'OINT TO

Mr. anil Mrs. Mackenzie — M.uiitohuh Mouse — Messenger — Missionary I'rivution.s — Want of Supplies — Com-
imniicalion with St. I'uul — future Supplies more constant — Snow Sturm — liullau Suiuiiier — Snow iilrds —
Manitoliah House — Kiiek — John Campbell — White fisli — Iinpurtuiiee nf — .\spect of Country — Tlie Narrows
— .Manitoliah Islaiul — Diuiensiiius ul — Oak — Itoek l''oriiKUioii — Fossils — luiliim Su|ierslilioiis — I'airies^
SigiiiiU — .Arrival of lluat ..l Munitolmli Island — Coast of Lake Muiiitnliali — Old .Misslmi S<.aliou — I'ntitiiess
of this part nf the Coast ol' the Lake for Settlement — Indian Lilierality — Monkiiiaii's Point — Cause of tliu
Forinalioii of Marshes — II. 1). Co.'s Itreeding Kstablislinient — Ouk Point — Dimensions of Luke Maiiitubuh —
Prairie linrileriiij; tlie Lake — Shoal Lake — Character of the Country — Ulg Uidge — Little Uiilge — Arrive at
the Settlements.

I remained one week at Manitobah House, waiting for Mr. I'leining, who was detained by coiittr.ry
winds. To Mr. and Mrsi Muckeiizic I uin indebted fur much gcneruiis iiosuitulity, and Imve great

O 8

RKVOHTS OF TIIK ASSINNIROINK AND

nloiiniiri' ill pii^i)i'«Nin^ lliH <i|)|i(ii'tiiiiily of iii'kn(>wli'(lgiii){ tlii'ii' kii<iliii'SN, ami tliu ciulcnvonr tlii-y iiiiidi'
It) i{iv(' nil' nil till' ii'-Hi'-tinu'i' iiiid inli>riiiiilii>ii in liii'lr powtM'. Muiiilnliali lloiiso in in i veiv (liliiiiiiliiicd

i '

• lii

lull Ml'. Mlickrll/il' I'llH CI'I'Cll'll lllllltllrl' llwi'lllllll, wllicll U'll

-I lu'iirly I'oiiiiirli'M iliiriniK niy

) ill

Slav. .V Kiitnaii ('allmllc llns^lllll roniii'ily cxi^tnl licrc, liiil having lii'cn aliaiiiloiii'd, die linildiiiUH werv
Holll to iIk' II. II Co., anil in tlic ycai' liillowiiiK tliu triinHl't'i' dii'y wvrv accidviitally dtiiti'Dycd by
lire.

On .Salmday. i\\v Hllli Oi'lolii'i'. n int"»scnj;i r airivi'd from I'liiilind on his way to Oak Point, wliiihci'
III' vi'Ms ionrin viii^ Inr llir Mipjilit's of ilic niiisinii in cliargf oI'iIk' Iti'V. Mi'. Sliigg. 'riiosc ulio liavu not
i'X|ii'rii'iit'' il ilu' privalicin-. rrsiillini; to niissiomiriis in di'.iam oiil-po>.|s iVoiii the non-iinival iil' llivii'
snpplifs liv till' t'ii~liiiiian nnil''. and al tlio rvpiclid sriisiin, can lorin liiit a Iri'lilo (.'.nu'cption of tin'
triiiilili's and anxii lir^ wliii'li cliripivi' tlii' lilr iif a /ritloils inissiunaiy in Unpcit's Land, ll is nut mere
pi'l'Minal iiK'iinvi'iiiciu'c uliiili tank's liiiii ciii'i' anil cinliaria^Mineiil ; il is ilic iiiipossilillity ol' Liking
advantage of Miaiiv oppoi'liinitir" liii' iiuliiciiiu nandeiing Indians to settle aiouiid tlie niissioii, iil ciotliing
iinil I'eeding tlie eiiililien till i listed lo Ills I'liai'ge, and ol' seeiiting, liy aiil Jiidieionsly iipplied, llie respeel
and alleeliiin ol llmse he is eiiileavoiii'iii|{ to Clii'isliaiii'Au or ediieale, oi' seekini; to dritiv I'rolii their laith
ill siiaiige and ima^inaiy (.'oils.

The Indian ueiii lallv. li'iiiii his haliilsand precarious mode orsnbslstrnee, retpiiies Kotnelliing tangilile
ill ihe lirsi ins>anee to anesi liis atleiitioii, and prictical eneoiirageineiit, ol'ieii repeated, lo si eiire his
good- .\ ill, liiliire an inipiissinn eaii he made on Ins lirarl. If the iiiissMinary is eiil ull'lroni Ills supplies
in the inlaiu'v nl' a niission iinieli ol' his work has to he done over again. Indian uants are liw and
simple, hilt llii V iiiiisl he supplied without liiil at new stations; hence the importance, ifsiicceKs is lo he
secured, of eU'ecling and sustaining a lolerahly regular eoiinniiiiication once or twice a year with the
sellienienis al lied Uiver.

Mr. .'siagg lias '.nllired iniicli inconvenience lioiii being di>Hppoinlt'd in ol)tainlng aiipplieit of flutliing
anil other indispensable arlicles tor the ehihlren and ndnlls, now Clirislian ni','inbei's ol' his niixsion, and
the inessengir who ariivid al Maiiilob,ili linnve was ilespatehrd at his i \peii'.L' to bring the neci^saries
which had been brxiiglil Ironi York l''aclor\ lo Ked Uiver, bill not lonvarded to the mission at die usual
time by ihe II. It. ('o.'^ brig ale.

Il li.is soinelimes happi'ilid that this is not coiivenieiil or perhaps tpiile inipossilile ; il is n.iinral lo
suppose llial v\liili Iroin ini-sjng a season or liiun oilier causes, ihe supplies liir the service ol llie
dllleieni posts nl'llie cinpany are in arre.irs, anil die biigade ol boats can lake only a cerlain (pianlilv
olgoods, those ioi ihe piupiisrs ol the Iraile will lii'sl receive allenlioii. It has happeiiiil two or lliree
times thai one yen'- supplies lor die whole si iileiiient ol many very imporlanl neeissaries have been
iniivoid.iblv lilt at York I'lieiory. e.insing no little inconveiiii nee and Iroiihle lo tlie si Itlers as well as
the inissjiinariis. in llie sellli inenis at Ited Itiver their wants can be in part supplied IVoiii I'orl Oarrv.
bill III the ini'.sionary oiil-pusls Mich reli I eaiinol he lookeil for.

Now thai ciiinmunieatiiiii may be said to be esiablishi d biiwieii I'ort (i.iriy and .'st. I'anI by stiain-
boat and slage coach, dure will always be an abniidant sii|iply of necessaries at the setllemeiils, which
Was not llieeaac uheii llie elilel means nl eoininnnicalion with ih" outer woi Id lav tliroiigli \i>rk laelnrv.
Opportunities may now be emhraced lin' siipplyiiej ilisLinl oiil-posis, which did not exist belore I'ort
Ahei'crouibie or the iinailh ol tne .Shayenne was connected l>\ sieani Willi I'ml Ci.iiry,

In the alterniioii ol lliis day a snow slorm eDiiimi neeil. whieli coiiliniud all niglil. and covered the
groiiml willi nine inches ol snow. I he ihermomeler "as al the Ine'/iiiig point, but Mr. .Mackenzie
staled his conviclii<n lli.il the " Indian stiinmer '' nut having vel iicciirreil, die snoa would mioii disappear,
and we might have fine weallnr lor HI days or a loi tiii'.dil : a preilictinn Imrne out liv llie rapid dis-
appearance of die siiiiw nil the liiilowing il.i\, and die occiiriellce ol beautil'iil weather, wilh bostv nights,
to near ihe end ol Oelolnr.

On Monday, the IMlh, snow birds were Hying aliont ihi'po.l in large (locks ; ducks wendinLT their
wav lo die soiilli. and all appiaraiiccs niiil signs ol ipproaching winter rapidly lolliwing mie anotlier.

luesiliy aad Widnesilay were neeupied in wriiiiig letters and making up my jinniial. On 'I'hins-
Uav, tile 2lsl, the lioat not !ia\ iiig .urived, I pri>ceeileil lo examine die suriiiiinding ciainlrv. The
day vvas warm iniil line, with much smoke Irom the soiitli-wesi, coining no doubt rroiii the burning
prairies.

.Maiiilobah House is very prettMy siliiated near the Niirrows ol' the lake. Iniinediali ly before it is a
cluster ol low islands, on which some line ash-leaved maple and elm grow ; they are the favourite
camping gruimils ol the Iniliaiis who hunt and lish In the eoimiry about Lake .Mainlobali. Ihe land
in the rear of the house is siony hut good, and there is an area nl many llionsand acres in exieni.
Well adapted for a si lllemenl. I lie liinbei', consisting almost ahogellier of aspen oil the main l.ind,
is of lair dimensions, trees Irom IS inches to i.") inches ill diameler luing conininii. Near the I'ost,
but nil die oppn-ile side of the lake, tlirie is a coiisiilerable ipianliiy of balsam, spnnr, and Miiiarae.
There are no rock exposures visible near the Post, bat in making an excavation for a cellar under tlu'
new hnnse the wurkineii came upon Innest.ine rock ttmr fert below llie snrlace. It w.is apparently
hori/niilal. bill in llie bagnuiils procured no oiganie remains were visible; its litlmlogical aspect was
similar to the rock on .Manilobidi Island, to he herenfler described. When the Kiirfaco of the exposed
rock wa.s cleaned with a bucket or two of water well-preserved ice gfoovea were visible. Their direction
was N. I(f \V.— S. 10" !•;.

I visited the house of a freeman named .lolin Campbell a few liuiulred y.irds south of the Post, and
foiiiKl there two eomlijrtahle log shanties, a potato field, two or three hayslack.s, and some cattle.
Campbell's son inlorined me that il was much easier to live liere than ut the .Settlements. Some uf his
cuttle were permitted to remain In the woixU and bwuinps all winter, but tliey becunie very poor
tiiward.s spiing. While-fish are abuniljiit. The fishing season having already begun, Cuinpliell liud
caught alio white-fish, but he wauled l,l)Uii Inr Ins winter supply. As soon us the lish are c.tughl in
the gill iivlb und brought tu bhore a slit in iiiiidc ubovu the tail, tht'uugli which a puililed titick i:> pushed.

SASKATCHEWAN KXI'LOUINO KXl'KUITION.

Ill

■our iliev iniidi-

'CTV (lilllllillllU'tl

Icil (liiniig my
■ l)iiililinu'< wi'if

I (lt'sirti,V('<l l)y

I'llilll, whillliT

<i' who Imvf nut
iirriviil III' iliL'ir
iri'|)li(iii (if ihc
1 1 is mil iiici't:
liilily of l.ikiiiK
ion, <l^ciolllill^
ii'd, till' ri'siicct
iVoiii (lu'ir liiilli

iL'lliiii^ liiii|{ili|i>
(I, 111 »( ciiiv IiIn
oni Ills !<ii|i|ilii'>,
Ills iii'i: li'W iiikI
-llctVHs In III lie

II yeiir wiili ilu-

ilic'HorrliiiliJiij;
lis iiiissiiiii, mill
lllr llccr^-ai iiw

on lit iliu usual

it is n.iiiiriil to
MTvirr (if till'
iTIaiii (|iiiiiility
•il Ivvii or lliicc
lirs liHvc btcii
;lci's ii« well lis
ifii I'oil (iinry.

I'mil liy !it( ain-
CIIK'Ilt-', wliicli

Nciik i'.uidry.
Nt Inline l''oit

III CdVi Iril llic
^Ir. Miickcnzif
oiiii ili>.i|i|i(iir,
llio riipiil (lis-
Il lid'.ty iiif;lils,

wi'iiiliiii; lliiir
iiic iiriiiilicr.

Dm TIiiiis-

•niiiiliy. 'I'lic

till' biiriiiiii;

I' bcfori' it is a
llif faviHirito
ill. rill' land
IIS in I'xii'iil,
II' in.'iiii hind,
Sriir the I'dst,
and l.iiiianii'.
lai' iiikIci- till'
as ii|iiiai(nlly
fill as|ii'tl Was
if till' I'xpdSi'd
'lit'irdiretliim

the Post, and
I siiiiie cattle.
iJoMiu uf his
lie very pdnr
L'uiii|iIh.'II hud

lie e.lllfrlll III

ick \i pu»li(.-d.

Tell flsli lire placed on each stick, and the sticks are sliif^ed in the open air, alidiit iiinii feet 'roiii the
);roiiiid, licyonil die reach of (lii|(s. No curing, cleaning, or any preservative proeiss is einplii 'cil; iho
dry air iiiiil Irnst preserve llieiii until they are needi'd. The iiMpiirliince of the while-Msli in lliis ri'uiiiii
niiiy he Imagined when it is known lliat not only diies ii fdrin the chief food (if the Indians in lliv lake
region for ii j^real porliun of the year, hut llint' irliilijhli p r ilicm ronstitiitc the Mile ilnily allow. ,iic»
iif till' half-lirerds allnched lo this I'list ; aliioliii' ly iiotiiiiii{ inori'. Moiir, tea, su^ar, iVc, are luxuries,
which, if they wish to indulge in, must ln' piircliased at lii|;li prices. Nevertheless they are healthy,
happy, and, iiccordiiifj; to their notions, coiiiln ilile.

The whlti'-lish I saw staffed iit Cainpliell'k iiilght iivei°aji(c tin re to four pounds each. They are con*
sidiri'd to lie superior to those caui>ht in Lake Winnipeg. 'I'liis iinporlaiil '.iiiirce of food in these
re;{ioiis is well iiained '• iil-ik-uin-ain." or " lln' riiii-dicr of the water," liy lie' OJiliways, It forms u
priiicip'il ailiele of diet diuiiii; a large porti.in of the year, not only >>f die Indians, hut alsii iif die
setlh I'l at Ited Itiver. The price the fru/iii lisli li'lcli in the Siltlemriil is live for a shilling, iir lOU
fur a pound sterling. Dining our winter journey to (.'aiiad i ue piireliased llieiii at Ited l.:ike, in
Miniusiil.i State, III the rate ot !S(i (I/. !).•() per Innidred. lo li'ed the dogs; each dog was allowed oiiu
white-fhh, and a morsel uf pemiciin as lung as die pemiean lasted,

Indian summer lieg.in lo-diiy, Oetoliir 'Jlst, 'the weather is warm, smoky. Imi very delighil'ul.
No boat being yet williiii 'ighl, I visiied the islands opposite Manitiibah lluiise, the iiiiir.'.lies at the
loutli of i'!b!i and I'low Lake, "iid the C'lunlry in the reiu' of the I'ost. Its extraiiiilniiny ll.itness

hliowil liv tlie un

ill expanse (if iiiar^h iilimit the islands and iiliiiig the CiiiM niirlli of the Iliidsiin's

ly C ompaiiy s |^l^t. I lie level iil the lake was tliree leet helow liigli-waler murk, anil about twii Icet
iibiive lllr hiwesi pnim in wliicli il has been known In fall for many years. I'lie bii.it mil arriving on
llie I'Veiiiii'; of the 2'ind, I delerinined to take a smiill supply ol pruvisioiis iind gii with \\ liiieuay the
lialf-breeil, who had accompanied me liom Diiuphiii Lake, a> far as .Manitnliali LJaiid, iilioiit 1^ milcH
in a directiim due iinrtli, iiiiil there await its arrival This part ol Lake Manilob.di is mil more than
I'luin ihrie to lour miles across, sliidded with low ixlamls. mid on the east side die coast is imh ii.l'iI with
tieep bays. The strail is shallow, "i I liet of waler eluse In the N.iriows lieiiig the greatest ilcjith
recorded.

Maniliili.ih Island, from which llie lake derives ils iiaiiie, is alinut liOll yards long and 201) yards
broad; on its luirili side llirr(^ is a perpendicular liiiif-lone dill' I .') feet high ; ii few yards I'luiii its
eili/e a well-deliiied aneieiil lake beach eiiissi s the island, re^elnbling in iiiiisl parliiiilars the Uiilge
I'ilching iraek or the liig liidi^e of the .Assiniiilioine. TIk' part diat r inaiiis in a good slate uf pre-
serv.iliiin is not mure llian I .'lO yaids liin.', tlie breadlli of die Island being here about 'J'ill yards.
I'rom this aneii'iil lieaeli the land sliipt s gi.uliially in a ^uulllelly dim lion to the present beach, willi ils
fringe III rushes ai ilie suiilli exiremilv of die Island. I'lie liniSer eullsi^l1 of ii.ik and birch ; many of
the rnst-naiiicd tree have been cut by the people of I'liirfurd and .Maiiiloliah Iluiise.

The native carpenter einplined to build Mr. Nliickeii/ie's new residence accompanied lis to the
Island, .'ind idlhoiigh very anxious to make the tr.tverse across the lake after passing the Narrows, he
remained liir a few himrs to cut a couple ol oak logs, which iie propo-ed to take with him to I'airford,
lo mend the old l'reii;hter's boat wliicli had formed his pay for six weeks' labunr. lie embraced this
opportiinily on iircouiil of the ilitKculty ol proem ing oak limber nnir the Mission, Although oak
was seen several limes on the shores of Lake Manildbah, north of ihe Narrows, yet nowhere was it
fiiiind of such serviceable thickness ( l.'i inches) and leligih as on .Maniliibali Island. In the rear uf
the marslies whieli lioiil.i die lake il is known lo exist in suiall (piantilies.

Among the Devonian l'os^il^ piueiired on die island were .lln//iu rtlinilnris, A/ilz/iii impirn, two
species if C/nmrtrs, a «inall I'nutiuiiis, an Orl/idrrni.t, and fragments of a large lisli. ( Mr. Millings.)

I rem.iined on this island with W'liiteway for tli;ee days; we shut a mink, a few duck, and saw a red
lox, but alllioiigh die island was so small, »e I'uiind il impossible lo kill him. Indians ap|H'ared occa-
sionally in their eaiioes on the north-east coast of the lake, bnl allhough ihey heard our guns and hied
in reliirn, yel they would iiol venlnri! near us. They have all a great aversion to caves aiitl over-
hanging rocks, conceiving that Mieli places are the abode ol liiiries or .Maiiiloii. The origin of this
siiperstilioii in relalioii to Manilob.ili Island is due to the soimils proibu'eil by llie waves as they beat
upon the be.icli at the fool of llie low elill'-. al its nurlhcrii extremity. During the night-lime, when a
geiille liree/e is liluwing I'rom the north, the varioii- suiinds heard on the island are (piite siilHeieiit to
sti iKe awe iiilo the imiids of siiperviilious Iniliaiis. These sounds Ireipieiuly resemble tlie ringing of
disliinl ehnrcli bells; so close, indeed, is lliis resemblance, that several limes durini; the niglit I woke
will) the ini|)iession that I was lisleiiing lo chimes. When the lincze subsided, iiiul the waves played
genlly on the beach, a low wailing sound would be heard from onr c.imping place, about ;illO yards
from the dill's where die noise was produced. At night it was peculiarly impressive, ami .is we lay on
the moss-covered nick, it was very easy lo comprehend the objection which uneducated Indi.ins, natu-
rally of a liinciful and superstitious tinn of ininil, should have lo land or ruinain on this "fairy"
island.

On the night of Monday, the 25tli October, we built as usual a large lire on the beach to serve as a
lieaeon light to Mr, Kleming, and at nine lay down to sleep. W'hiteway was telling me about die
adveiilme of .Shii-Shons (Long-ears), wliiise tent w.is within a few miles of us, and who was tossed by a
biill'alo bull during the past smniiier, when at 10 p.m. three shots were heard, apparenlly about three
miles mirth of llie island. We s|)raiig up .mil replied wilh three sliols, and proceeded at once to supply
the U'lieon lire wiih dry wood. W'hiteway put his ear lo the water's edge, and after a short pause
declared that he heard oars, .\fter a liu'W minutes we (ired three more shots, and w.nled the result ; in
hall an hour the Ixiat loomed thruugh the gluuin, and belbre eleven o'clock Mr, I'leniiiig and the crew
\Terc on Munitobuh Island.

I ht

] ■

lis

UKi'uirrs OF iiii: assinmijoink and

'I'lii'V liiiil lii'i'ii ili'titiiK.'d liy cDiiii'iiry wiiuN, Init liail plcnly <>!' ii|iiii't, killiii^ pniirii' lien,* duck, ami
(ilovi-riii lilt' iipjH'r |);ii'l i>r lliii l.iko, iumi' I'riiiKi \U\\. At miiiiii't Mi'. I''li'iiiiii){ loiirli' il ii luw puiiit ii
It'W tiillin nortli-iMm III' iiiir islmiil, wlii'i'<< ii Tew liiiliiiii* wrii' uii('iiiii|H'iI i iIk'V IoIiI liiiii ill >t lluv ImiI

ivpi'iili'dly liiiari

liotit Iriiiii

llii' Niinowit, liiit iliil ijot ciiii' III kniiw wlin liiiil lii'nl lliciii In lliiil

i|iiiii'li'r, ' A (|iiii.'t iiiliiiiiHioii lliiit lliK It-rrorH ul' Miiiiiloliiili I^liiinl v/vtv hiiIIU'Ii'iiI to ilit'ck lliu i'uiii>>iily
L'vi'ii oraii Ojiliwjiy liuliiii

HiiN piiKt iioiiii IIII till* iiiiiniiii;{ III' lliii :<lliii wlii'ii wi< I'lMclii'il Munilnliiiii IIiiiihu; wi

llii'l'U liir III! Iiiiili' III imiiiikr nl' llu' liiiH|ii|iilily nl' Mr. iiiiil Mih. Mii('krii/,ii', iiiiiI |iiik'iiu' u .sii|i|ily t<l
wliitr-liiili mill niiliiliiiv>. In lIu' iiricriiuiiii we |iiillril lou'iii'il'i Mi'Kiiy'^ I'liint, jm^hi'iI Ik'Iwi'i'ii Sii){ai'
Nliiiiil anil llircli Nl.iiiil, ImIIi In^v anil iiiamliy iiri-ai, ami r.iiiipi'il at miiisi t nii >i liienlai' Nunily lii'iiili
i-iiclusiii;r an I'Sti'iiilvr niiiDiii, in uliirli iliuk i>lili ii'iii;iiiii'il in o'li^lilrralilc nniiilui'i. I'lio l.iko nvai'
till' cnnsl is Hlialliiw, llii' jiiiMtist ilrptli ii't'oriliil liiinff 13 liii.

'I'lir iiliiilr III tilt' i'iimhI as l.ii' nn Swan Cnrk \* very low, ami lini'ilri'i'il liy liraili's (.'ni'lii>iiif{ iiiin>ln"<,
Ilri'i^ mill lliciv woiiili'il pniiiti, 10 In \'i li'it ii'iiivi' tlii' laki- l< VlI, "I'p.nato lint iimi'.iIhn iVniii iiliu
aniitlici'; on inii' nl iIum' pniiils vvi' iilnrrvoil minu- Vtiy lini' i lin, lint liii' prrvjiilinu: liiiilii'i' i-iinsisli iiC
iinprii. A ml^^illll W'.H i<t.ilili>'liril mudo ynif'. sirico at Klin I'liiiit liy tin' llrvi'ioiiil Mr Coulcy, init
ali.iluliiiM.'il Mion iilli r. An alli'inpt WiW in.iilt! In npm a rait Hark rniiii lliis inissjuii in ilu< piairiis
lii'ar Oak Point. Inil it was llioiinlit tint llic Imliaiis who priilrssiil to «"''''•' ^l''- I "wlry llnnnuli llm
(li'icst part iil'llip ciMiMtry, look liiin tlniin^fli tlii' innsi Mvainpy poilion. Tin: Imllans iinw ijiy iliat iliy
riiluri I'xist, with Irw intrrvniint; iniiihlics uvrr anil lln'iiiiij;h nliii'h a rait tiiick rniilil hi' I'stnlilislu'il
uilhtml ilillicnltv ; Itiil it I', rsldiii' that tlio rliar.ii'ti'l' nl lIu' nninliy on this pail nl' l.aki' .Maniliiliali ii
■nil litli'il liir liiriniii;; pnipn^ri, Isnlalt'il iiii'as liki' I'liiii I'liint aro, ilnniilk'^i, In lie liiiiml, bnt lint
Milliriiiillv r\lrii>ivi' to |.'ivi' to llii'» irfjiiiti any valiii! in an iij^iu'iillinal point iit'\icH-.

Wr iiirt an Inilian in a I'lilioi' iirar I'.lin I'niiil, anil Wliili'way, at my ivipii'sl, |n|i| him ui' wi rr
stai villi.'. I wislii'il to M'Crriain llii' nnlli nl' tin' Nlnli'inriit soiillrii inailr rispt'ciiiifj ihi' lihi'iailiy ol'
tlii'so liulians in cast's ol' ncci'ssjiy. I ho answer was a happy oiii' ; iipproiichiii^ oiii' liiial in his ciniii!
the Inilinn saiil, *' I.nok, il' you mi' anylliin<{ to cat, take il.'' In his cannu wire s'wiy tiiiu whiti'-li..h
anil a li'W pike. I ({iivc liiiil aoini' pnliiloi's, loliacro, ami Ira, ami acccptcil a duxcll white fish, which
lit' pri'sscil lis III lakr.

'rill' sliiii'f continues low lis far IIS .Sainly Point; il is IiiimmiIiiI liy IhiicIics l'iin){('il willi line nsiK-ii
foresis in ihe rear nl' marshes lilleil wiih rushes, which occupy part of every slullercil cove iinil iiiiy
«ipeM to the lake. We canipeil at Miinkiiiinrs I'oini, where one of the laiiiily has a (i-hiii)^ hialion.
'I'liey Were calchiiif; lluir wiiilei's supply of while li-li. Monkiiuiiit pninleil nut a nmrsli in llie rear of
I nr camp which he said w.is once ilry ){rnui>il ami alliirileil spleiiiliil p.aslui'ai;e for horses. It is sepa-
ruleil from llie lake hy .1 jjiavtlly U^arh. 'I'his pioliahly oeciniiil iliniiifX a piiiiiil nl low-w.ilti. A fall
in the level of the lake to ihe tMeiil nl two leel noiilil not iiiily iliain anil ihy lliis minsli, linl many
thonsniiil acres nf maisliy tracts fninieil miller similar circiiinslances, ami at the same perlnil. Mr.
Mackciixie, of Main' hah llniise, lulil me lliat former rcsideiils at that pnsi had si en the hike for a
li)ii<; period III time two leel lower than at present. In ficl, lielnre the Hoods of \K,'t'., the lake wiis at
its lowest level, and the swainps .niil inar.-lies frinjjinj; its low norlh-ca-lern cnasl were then dry areas
cnvercd with rank j^ras^. In ihe course of a lew veai'n lliis will a,:jain lake place, and for a loii^ period,
perhaps, settlers may enjoy fine pastine lands, dcsiiiied a<^ain In reveii to an intcrmillei I coniliiinn of
swamp nr marsh. Monkmaii inlmiiied me that many years since iho Ilnilsniis May l'oiii|i,iny had a
lireedlni; 1 slalilislmieiil near this pnini; and he rcmeiiiheicd the lime when 1:20 hor.si., ueie paslnreil
in the iieifjIiIioniliiMid nf Sw.in Creek, ahoiil la miles from O.ik Point.

On the 'JHiU we jiassed throii;;h an immense expanse of reeds calltil .Marshy Point, llircadin^ onr
way ihroiiijh an Inliicate channel in which lari;e nuiiilHrs of duck still lin^i red. .Vhuut one n cinck
we arriviii at Oak I'nint. where we fimiid .lohii Monkmaii and a nniiiher of sellleis frnin lied Uiver
ealcliim; their winter supply of white-lish in gill nets.

Lake .Manitoliah is PJO miles lon<; hy '-ii liroail in its widest part, fruiii lieadlaiul to headland ; hut if
esliniated I'loiii Oak Point to the niimili of While Mud Uiver on the wi'>l side, the lireadth does tint
fall liir shiu'l nf. 'to miles. The aiea of the lake is aliont l,!MM) .sipiare miles, and i.s iippro\iniali.'
altitude ahiive the se.i (i'l'i) lid, nr lU feet ahnve hake Winnlpcfj;. An inspeelinii ol llie map will show
that in the parts sounded, which were .somelimes I'i In 15 miles hrnail, ihe ileplli never exeeiii; d 2'A leel ;
this occiiiied halfway lalweeii t'heiry Island and .Sanily Point in llie upper porlion of ihe lake. In
till.' two tr.iverses helwei n Manilnhah Island and Cherry Island not more lli.ni a I ftet was reeordtd,
while within four miles of ihe coast, hi the soiilherii or larger porlion of the lake, 18 feet was the
greatest depth found, 'ihe s(jmiding8 are shown on the map.

'i'he cll'ecis of winds on ihe large .surfaces nf water exposed hy the grc.it lakes nf the W innipeg llasiii
is very remarkahly sicn at the Narrows, near Manilohah Island, the IJog's Head (Lake \\ innipeg),
Wntcr-lien Kiver, and the niniilhs nf the Winnipeg and Red Uivers. 'Ihe ciirrt'iits jiiodiiced hy the
pressure nf the wind clianging the level of t'le lake has jirohably exercised an laiportant iiitliience in
cuniiociing ditrerent pans of the same lake hasins.

At the Narrows, Lake Manilohah, a nnithcrly wind will cause a strong current lo flow ihrongh the
straits into the lowir or soiilhern half nf the lake; while a snnlh wind proilnces a corresponding ellecl
in the norlhein portion, and perceplihly increases the volimie of water in the Little .Saskatchewan. At
the Dog's Head the cniieiit sometimes ap[)rnaclies the force of a rapid when the wind hhnvs from the

r\n- Vi

IK-

(,r I'i

i.iu.(i rii

T,!,-,

'"/■

till, ii mil urti'

111 M> Tiir tutrtli as Int. .''f' m the H-(M>itt>i| (o

f 1 III- liriMlii r uClohri Moiikin.iii nf Ouk '*oint — ii cclit.riiU-d tliuriK-Ur .it Selkirk tijcltk-nunt— inurL' nill ba su'iA ul' tliii iiMlivi(lii.il
in u I'litiiri' ilhiiilor.

SASKATCIIKWAN KXPLOUINO KXI'KDITION.

113

I'll,* iliii'k, mill

I II low |)(iiiit II

ill It lIllV ll.lll

llii'iii ill lliiit
k tliu I'liiioMly

Wl! I< lllllllll'll

iirv II Kiiiiiily i>l
ii'twi'i'ii Siixm-
II- Miiiiily lit'iK'li
I'lic l.ikc iii'iii'

lll'lll^ llllll>lnw,
»lll N IVoiii IIIIU

iIk r I'liiiMsl-. iiC
Ir, Coulry, Imt

III llii< iii'iiiiiih
y tliiiiii,:(li (III'
>w Hiiy iliiil ill y

III' rstiililislii'il

I' MMIlillllciil ii

liiiiiiil, 1)111 lint

II llllll \VI' III If

III' lilii'i.illiy lit'

lilt ill llis I IIIIM!
lillU U||itl'•fi^ll

lid' lisli, uliii'li

'illl lllll' llsjii'M

I'DVi' llllll liiiy

IMlill;r KlIllilMI,
ll ill lIlC I'CIII' III'
I'S, It is Sl'|lil-

-w.ilii. A lllll

rsli. lull iiimiy

jiiriiMl. Mr,

lilt' l.ikc for II
llir liikf Mils III

llirii ilry iiriiii

II lllll<{ IH'lillll,
I C'llllllillllll III'

iii|iaiiy llllll II
wiic |):l^lll^l'll

llii'i'iiiliii); iiiir

III IIIIC 11 i'llK k

nil Hill Kivtr

idlanil ; liiil if
llllll lines lint

ll|l|ll'0\illllltl!

iiia|i will show

iiil'.il aaini;

llic lllkl'. Ill
»ils ii'iniiltil,
8 I't'i t was till!

ilini|)r^ Dasiti
\\ ililli|irj;),
(IlK'i'd by llio
I intliifiicc ill

IV lliri)ii!;li till!
iiiii(liiig I'lli'ct

li'lirw'iiii. At
IMS from the

linlrj,
)!' tliii iiiilivitliial

"T?

north i ihn Rrrnt ilrptli «l° l.nkc \Viiini|ii'tf lit llii* |Hiiiiti wliicli I was iih^iiiciI liy liull'-lii'i'i'tlit niiil IikIIiiik
who flull lIliTC illirlli|{ till! wiiitiT exri't'ils IVII li'i't, i* iloilllllt'ss ihi- li'siilt.

At liml oIkIiI it ii|i|)i'ill'H ntl'ilil^i' tliiit till' liiiK'stoiii' cliU'ii sliiiiilil lint liavi- lirrii ^I'liiliiitlly limkrli iiwiiy,
llllll lllll I'liniiiiiliiicalinii lii-lwci'ii llir ii|i|)ri' anil |ii»ri' |inrtiiiii «( I ikr \\ iiiiii|iri{ i'iil.ii'i{i.'il. Knt
riliiiiill)( wiili'r I'Kt'l'cisi'K i'niii|iiii'.ilivi'ly lillli' t'lli'il in rXi'iivaliiix ii iliip ilniiiiul tlirnii^li ii incky liai'iiir,
nr ill wuli'iiiii^ II wiili'icniirsf ; ici', lityniiil all (|iii'stinii, is tlii' iimiii iiisiriHDiiit iii iilii'ailiii|i{, iliiiniliiiu',
llllll cxi'iiviilin^, Atllii'Po ' IK'iiil llir ill* lian lilllii liii'i'r, on luriiuiit of lln' |iiii\iiTiity iil' islaniU,
I'itliiT wlii'ii iictiiiff with II I I nr lii'iirin;; iiwiiy miiihm's of rnck liiizcri ti> Iin •iiIisIhiici , lly far tliu
({ri'iitiM' |iortiiiii III lliL* ii'c rniiiii'il nil lliis iiaut iil'thi- coiist is ho pi'iitrrlril liv llu> isliiiuls as li> null liolnrn
it run lit' innvi'd liv wiiiils wiili its iiicky iiiirili'iiit in iliMtaiit piiris ol' tliu lake.

At Miiliiloliali lliiiliii' I nlisiTVi'il till' HiitiT rise I'lilly Iti iiiclus In I'imii ii Ninriii. C nines liCi in lalm
wi'iilliL'r nil II lii'jirli lil)(li iiiul iliy iiic not iiiirii'iiiU'iilly uaslu'il iiKay l«'ii a sirnii)^ snuili nr iiniili uinil
arls ill ; mill it nl'trll liilppi'lls thai rviii lu'tiirr llii' appi'iuu'li ol il rliaiij;i in llir ilirirtiiiii ol' |||(: hiiiiI ii
imlioiili'il liy I'IhikIh, IIh' wati'r nl' tlii' lakrs slinw liy risili',' llii' iiprralinii iil' ii ill"! Ml pirssini' wliirli liaii
lint yt't lliaiiirt'sli'il ilM'Uat llir pnliit ol nli^n viilinii. 'I lii' liiiliiiiis anil hiill'-lii'ii'il^, in iIm' lall nl' tlir yrar,
wlirii wiiiils iirr varialilr, I'lripii'iilly iinlicr tlii' iiiniitlis nl' sHi'iiiiim nr rilili' rr^^isli r'", siirli as n slmu- si't
lip liy tlii'iiisi Ivi's nil till' lii'ai'li, In m'u it any iiiiliciitinns are alUn'iliil nl ii ('liiiii;{e in llir wiiiil, nut
iippi'i'cialili' liy liny nlhcr iiicaiis,

III \H'il\, Mr. Kealiii;,', in his imrralive of Major I.nntf's Kxpi'ilitinii to tin- »niir('i's nl' Si. I'i'ttr's
Uivor, ilrscrilinl the I'M'i'cis nt'wimls mi llin walrrs of Lako Wiiiiiipri; tiikiiii{ plaCL' at lliu iiiniilli ol' tliu
WiiiiiiprK Itlvur IIS rollntvs : " .\ (piuslinii uliii'li has liirii iiiiiuli ilisciissnl liy Iravullcis, is tliiit nl' lliu
" Mippnsi'il pi'rinilii'al ri>is in tlir liikis. Wo ilii not propnsi' to lakr purl in llii' illsciissioii al prisini,
*' lint wi' may slati' lliat wu nlisirvuil at Fiirt AliXitiiilrr an appi'araiii'u siirli .is has prolialily mori' lliail
" oiu'U III I'll niisiakrii liir tl'u uH'ucI nl'u liili'.

" On our nrriviil we pitchu'l our luiits upon a snrt of whiirl' projuctiiis into ihu rivur, anil uluviited
" iilinilt twn I'l'i't iiIhivc iIiu IuvuI oflhi' watur. In lliu iilk'niooii a very lii^jli wind liluw rriiin tliu laku
" llllll accimiiiliiU'd lliu waturs in the day. so as in caiisu ilium to ovurllow lliu wliarf and nliligu lis In
" runinvu our lunls. 'I'liu iiuxt mnriiiiij{ tliu wiiturs li.iil siilisiilud to lliuir rnriiur Irvul."

'I'liu spluiidid prairi 's lioriluriiiL; on tliu siinllii'rn slinrrs of l.uku Maiiitnliali may liu said In lii'^in al
Oak I'oinl. Tliuir lio';iilary is an imajjininy liiiu uxtrndinn miiiiIi-uiisIui ly lowaiiis iliu Imlian srlllu-
iiii'iit on lied Itivir . a tlu' nnu hand, and In lliu old laku riil;;u, whuru il is cut liy Whitu .Mud llivur,
on ihu ullirr, a lli^lall^u in an iiir linu of I 10 nnli.. North of this liiiu the cnnnlry is in •luiiural marshy,
lull of nliuiilatin^ lakrs and linv iispun I'livurid rlilgus.

'I'liu si'tlluinuiil at i)ak I'nitit uonlaiiis ahniit a do/uii hoiisus ; tliuir iippiMraiicu does not frivu a
iilran;;ur a l.ivonialilu iinpirssinn of lliu iiiiliisiry and uni'ifiy nl tliuir iH'unpants, No advantafju iippuars
III l)u tiiki II of ihu spluiidid c'oimlrv by wliiuli ihuv inu surriuiliilid, and with ihu uxuuplinn nf .Inliii
Monkman, who at liiiius is a inaivul of I'lur^'y iiijiiilii'iniisly diruuli'd, ihuy ill) nut suuiii to havu madu
any primriss in iniprovinj{ tliuir ilHulliii^'s or in uiulosin;; a farm sini'u lliuy first i ■^labllslu'll ihuiiiselvcs
at l.iiku Maiiitnbah. Aliiiiit 10 mili'> in a snnlli-wusturly diruclion from Oak I'niiit a nuinbur nf l''runch
lialf'lirunls havu lorinud a sultlumuiit on thu shoris of Ihu laku. '1 buy ulijoy tliu ad\'aiitai;u of liavinir a
rusiduiit missionary (It. ('.) iimoii!; ilium.

On thu •Jllih »i' madu pruparalions for ii jniiriiuy on liorM'bark in thu Sutllumunls, stiikiiiir din^omilly
across ihu prairiu ru^jion just ili scriliud. Thu uonnlry in tliu iiuii;hbnurhonil nf Oak I'oiiit is vury
iillnu'livu ; its (junur.il h vul is about 10 Hut aliiivu thu laku; it lusiinblus in uvury rispuit lliu rujjioii
iilHint Wliitu Mild llivur. Our rnad, Inr a fuw inilus, lay auross a vury rich and lurtilc tract, until an
almnst iinpuroupliblu iiscuiit introiliicud ns to ii low pravully riilyo iipnii which a«pi'n wnoils (tiow in
narrow snips; thu foiust prisirviuir a uniform nullinu as f.ir as tliu uyu could riacli, in a diruutioii
coriisponilinir to ihu prist lit loi in of l.aku .Manilobali, indicatuil uiihoni ^laiicinir at thu soil, thu
diriclion and uxluiil of thu subaipiuoiis riilgus, aliurwanls a low coast liiir, which wriu lormud over lliu
llnnr of l.aku .Manilob.ih al a hij;liur kvul. Smcuuilin;; this low Hat rid;;u is a broad plaluau slightly
iimliilatiii^' and stnddud wiih sira).';,'lin^' clumps of yoini); poplar and sinull oak, with willows in ibu
shallow diprissioiis. 'I'liu noil bicomus rich in vij;rliiblu mould ajjaiii as wv iip|)riiacli .'slinni Laku, an
uxiunsivu sliuul of walur, shallow, ruuily, coiinuclid widi minurnus lakes lyiii^ tn ihu iiorlli, and a
fiivoiirilu haunt of aipialic birds.

Ihu soiilh slioru of Shoal Lake is parliciilarly allriK'tivu. Uidnis sii,iporciin; liuiivy oak Iriiifje the
sliori', buaiitifiil meadows, bordered with aspen mid oak wood-, revual tbcmsulvcs in makini; a shnrt
tnivursu lo llie sonlli. Alllioiij;li thu .shines of ihu laku are marshy, yet thu oak riil};es, sninu few
liinulreil yards snnlh of il, aru lii^di and dry. I'or a {{laziii;; esiablishineiit on iho lari;est ycalu, Sliiial
Laku .•■ aihnir.ibly lilluil. Wild hay in any desirable ipianlily exists anninil its maisliy shnru-, and in
ihu beinililul prairius lyinfj sniitli of it tinibur of uxcullunt ipialily lor biiililiiii; piirposus an:! fuel may In;
procnred in abnndance; in thu sprinj; and iinluimi the laku is cnvured with wild Inul of every vaiiely.
.Sho.'il Laku is a favourite spnrtin^r Kioiind of the ^untlomun of Fort (larry and the half-breuds of the
Sctlluniunt. It is on lliu main road tn Laku Manilobali, and is probably destined lo become u place of
some Hole as a jjrazini,' .station in the coiir.'>t' of lime.

On the JOih Oeiober I set out with Wliiteway in advnncu of the carts in the hope nf bi iiif; able to
reach thu .Settleinenis burnru nii;htfall. We passed llii'ouj{li an excellent prairie country sluildud with
aspen ijroves, and occasionally relieved by a broad shallow riiltju, probably of subaipieou> origin, like
those already du.scribed. The iJi;; Ui,|jrc of the Assinniboine is not well delincd where we descended it,
about eight miles west of Stony Munntain. It appears to lie divided into two portions, part cxpamliiiir
into an uiululaling tract of cuiiniry a few liundrud yards broad, tin; other preserving tiie outline and

114

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

cimrncter of the ni<; IlidRo, but named in consequence of its diminislied altitude the Little Ridge.
The k'vcl country at the hasu of cither is everywhere henutiful, fertile, and adinirnbly adapted for
setlli-ment. W'e descended the Little ilidge, n step of the Hig Uidgc, nt about four in the afternoon,
and in the distance could see the twin steeples of St. Uoniface with their tinned roofs glancing
brilliantly in the south-east about 15 miles olF. Wc then passed through the magnificent prairies
lyin,!i between Stony Mountain and Red River, reaching the edge of the Rig Swamp just before
sunset, and arrived at our temporary quarters in the Settlement half an hour aiter dark.

It has been stated in a preceding chapter that the Ridges of Red River and the Assinniboinc mark
the limils of land of (he first (piality in these valleys, north of the 'M)tli parallel and cast of the Sandy
Ilii!<, near Prairie Porlaye. But it uuM not be supposed that tlie country between Oak Point aiul
Slimy Monnlain is of ijreally inferior quality; in many parts no dilfereuce in the rank luxuriance of
the i^ras-. on lliesc praines and those south of the ISig Ridge could he distingnisliril, but the areo of
light 111- gravelly xiil, eovcreil with short stmited grass is far greater, and thus dimiiii lies the available
extent of soil adapted for agriculture. It is doubtful whether this drawback is not counterbalanced by
the proximity of the country north of the Rig Riuge to the forest-covered tract between the great
lakes, and to the liaunis of vast nuiubeis of wild fowl which breed on the borders of the small sheets of
waier so numerous in this ii'!.'ioii. Oil the map this trad, south of the probable limit of (he forest, has
111 en leeoidid a^ a '' vasi level prairi<' adapted (or aijriciiltiire," liie groves and strips of aspi ii and oak
only serving to lueak a v.isl kvel expanse into a series of very atlraeiive plains, apparently bouiuled by
forests, which are found as the traveller penetrates ilieiii to he but narrow hells separating one beautiful
prairie from another.

1 AliLK showing the Li;.\i)iN(i DiMiiNsioss and Ai'l'iioxi.M.vrK lli;ii.iir above the Si:a of tiie Lakes
in the (iiiiiAT Rasin of Lakk VVinnu'Ei;.

I.ahr IVinniprri.

Area ... - ,s..",n() si), miles.

I.eii;;tli . - . . '.'SO >t.

(inalesl Iircaillli - - - 't~ st. .,

I.en^tii iifeoast line - - illiO 81.

.A|)pi(ixiiiiuie liei^lit almvr llie sea - (i'ih Ceet.

Liik'' Miimliilinh.

Area .... I, ()()() >,|. iiiiles.

Leiinlli .... I'jo >t. .,

Cir;'nte»t lireaillli - - - '.'I- st. .,

IIci{;lil above the sen - - liTO feet.

Art/.'e ll'inni/ii'f/0-fiis.

Area .... |.<):j(i sq. miles-

Ltnutli .... !■_'() ,t.

(ire litest oreailtli - - - '_'7 si. ,.

Height above the sea . . (iyj feel.

St. Martin Lake.
.Xri'a ....

Length ....
(ireatest hreaihh ...
Height above the sea

Crihir l.iiht.
Area ....

I.engtii ....
(iri'aiest breailih . . -

Height above the sea

Ihtiiphin l.nkr.
Area ....

Length ....
(iri'ali'st breailtli -
Hriglit aliDve ilir sea
Tiiial watir aieii in the (iriat Hasiii
of Lake Winnipeg - . I;i,l;!l' sc|. miles

.Til) s(]. miles.

:io SI.

Ui St.
Ii.'),') feet.

Ml 'J sij. miles,

:(0 St. .,

■J,'> si. „

(i(iS Ci'it.

17(1 s<|. miles.

'.'I si. ,.
I-' SI. „
Too left.

T.Mil.i: showing the Ahkas anil Ivi.kvatiox above the Si:A of tlii! (iiihAr C!\NAnivN Lakes.

.Vaims .>l' I..lki-s.

Lake Superior
Circea Hay -
Lake .Miclilgan
Lake Huron
Lake .St. flnlr
Lake ICric -
Lake Oiilarin

Total area

.\ri';i in

v.\

'MitiiMI

.S(|uuri' .Mill's.

3'2.(KH)

uIhiv

• 111.' .Sva.

lifltl

•_',(XK)

.')TS

'_".M<K)

."ills

Ifl.'.'IK)

.')7s

MliO

,-)7()

<(.()()0

.-.Ii,'-,

<;,;«)()

'.';!'.'

<iLs(ii)

SASKATCHEWEN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

115

CHAPTER XII.

INDIAN WEALTH. — TIU-; BUFFALO. — TIllv HOUSE AND Tllli DOG.

c mark

Sandy

The Bison or nuffulo — Its value — Two kinds of liuHUlo reported tn exist by Ilnlf-breeds — The |)iiiiii Buffalo
and tlie Wood Buffalo — C'liaraeters of — Former range of the Buffalo — Kxisled on the Atlantic Coast —
TlirouKhout the United States Territory, not including all the New Knj;land Slates — Modern range of
— The lied Itivcr buinls — The Saskatchewan bands — Wintering quarters of the North-western bands of
Buffalo — Summer ranf;es — Sjstennitic Migration of — Buffalo Hunt — Census of ll.'d River Half breed
Hunt — Blind Duffalo — Crossiui; of Buffalo with Domestieatcd Cattle — Character of Mixe<l Breeds — The
Horse — Training of Horses — Docility of — lilustralions — Attachment of Indians to their Hinses — Iloppings
— Smokes — The Dog — Its uses — The Midnight Howl — Dog Feasts — Dogs at the H. B. Posts — Voracity of
— Cross with the Wolf — Sacrifice of Dogs.

The bison or biillalo, the horse, and the ilo^' are to Prairie Indians what iloinesliailetl animals and
llie productions of the farm and the forest are to civilized races. l)uriiif{ liie fjreater ])art of the
year the Prairie Indians follow the hiiil'aio, and not only subsist upon the Hesli of this unimal, but
iVimi its skill and sinews tliey make their tents, clodiinjj, saddles, bowstrings, and <lo!: Iiarness. The
hide cut into strips serves tliem for cordage, the sinews split into threads for twine. The dried dinif;
is often their only fuel for weeks together in the treeless plains between the Assiniiiboine and the
(irainl Coteau, and on die Soiilli Uraiicii of the Saskatchewan. Dried meat, pemiean, marrow, soft
fat, sinews, dressed skins and ridies, all from the bnlhilo, form their articles of commerce, in exchange
h)r which they tlemand tea, which is now licconiinjj; a most coveted luxury, tobacco, powder, and
shot, and, if possible, rum. It may truly be said that they exist on the liull'alo, and their knowledge
(d' the liabils of this animal is consequently essential to their existence.

That there are two kinds of liiillalo appeals to be still a iiiatter of doubt ; ihey are stated to be
the prairie buH'alo and the bnd'alo of the woods. Many old iiiiiiteis with whom I have conversed on
this subject, aver that the wood buifahi is a distinct .species, and altbongb they are nut able to idler
scientific piiiofs, yet the dillcreiice in size, colour, hair, and horns are eiunneiMted as the evidence upon
which lliey base their stalement. Men from their youth hiiniliar with llie>e .inimals in the Cireat

Plains, anil the varieties which are freipienliy met with in large herds, still ding to this opinion.

The jilaiii liiilfalo are not always of the dark and rich blight brown which forms their characteristic
colour. They are frecpii-iitly seen frinn white to almost black. A grey biiU'alo is not at all iincoin-
luon. Hiilliilo emaseiilaled by wolves, the h.ill'-brceds say, are often found in the jirairies ; they grow
to an imuieiise si/o. 'I'lie skin o( a biifralo ox is recognized by the shortness of the wool and by
its large dimensions. The skin of the so-called wood IniU'alo, of which I saw two at Hetl Kiver, is
luiicb larger than that of the common animal, tlie hair is very slunt. mane or hair about the neck
short and soft, and allngelher desiitute id eiirl, which is the cominon feature in the hair or wool of the

inline aiiiii
Tin

ml.
>d bulla

said III be verv .^e.ll'ce, and iinlv found north of the Saskatchewan, and on tin

Hanks of the Kockv Nioiinlains. It
'ill

never veiiliiivs iiilo tlie open plain:

'I'll,
but

le iirairie

bulla

III winter the\

the contrary, geiier.iliy avonis the woods, and keeps to the open country,
frequently tiuind in the wtunls of ilie I^iitle .^uiiris, the Saskatchewan, the Touchwood Hills, and the
aspiii groves on the (Jii'.\ppelk. There is no doubt that formerly the prairie bulliilo ranged through
open woods almost as much as he now does through the prairies.

(iieat .Shive Lake is the iiorthein limit of the biilValo, and the eoiintiy between that large body of
water and the .Saskalclicwaii is parliallv w

TIk

le Inillalo are now fi)uiiil in ci)nsii!ei':.ble numbers
the ea-t (lank <if the Hoekv .Mountains. The former limits of the waiideriiius of llie.se animals

re carefullv recinileil in the narrative of M

extracts are taken :

i|or

The liiillalo was fonnerlv liniiid tl

s Kxpeilition. from which the following

iioughout the whole territory of llie I'liited

ast of lliiilson Hiver and Lake Champlaiii, and of

" narrow strips of e.'ast on the Atlantic anil the (Jiilf of Mexico. These were swampv, and had

.Slates, with ihe exieplioii of that part whicl

lahly

low iliiek w

oods. That it did not exist on the Atlantic coast is rendered probable liom the

circumstance thai all the e.irly writers whom Mr. C'olhoiin has coiisiilteil on the suhjecl, uiid they

loiilit

" are numerous, do not ineiition tlniii as existing there, but further back. Tlieie can lie no i
" that the animal approaclud the (iulf of Mexico, near the Bay of St. liernaril, for .\lvar Nunez,

le coast, and Jontel, l.'iO vear.> alterwaids saw tbeiii

" about the year I. »;!."), saw them not far fri

at the Hay of St, lleriiard. It is probable that this bay is the lowest point of latitude at which
this animal has been I'ouiid east of the Uockv Mountains. There can be no doubt of their exist-

" eiice west ol these monntains, though

Katl

ler \ eiieuas does not include them among the animals

" of California, and alt!

long

h tl

ev Were not seen west i

f tl

le inoiinlaiiis

bv L

111 Clarke, nor

nieiilioned bv Harmon or Mackenzie as exisliii

New Caledonia, a country of imineiise extent.

" which is included between the I'acidc Ocean, the Kocky Mountains, the territory of the I'liited
" .States, and the lliissian possessions on the north-west coast of Americu. Yet its existence at
" present on the Columbia appears to be well ascertained, and we are told that there is a tradition
" among the natives, that shortly before the visit of our enterprising cxpiorer.s, destructive (ires had raged
" over the prairie.s, and driven the liullalo east of the mountains. ,\t present it is scarcely seen east of the
" Mississippi, and south ol' the St. Lawrence. Ciovernor Cass' party hiiiiid, in ISlil, bull'aloes on llie
" eii.'t side of the Mississippi, above the liills of St. Anthony. Lvery year tl

lis animal s rovinirs

e restricted. In 1822 the limit of its wuiideriiig.s down the St. Peter waa Cireat Swan Luke (near

P 2

116

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

ir I

" Ciiui|) Crescent.) In 1823 the jjeiitlemcn of tlie (.'oliimbia I'nr (Jonipnny were obliged to travel five
" (lays in tiie north-west, direetioii from Lake Travcrs before they fell in with tiio game, but they then
" siiccee<le(l in killing sixty animals. Tiiere can be no doubt l)nt tiiis constant snbtracticm from his
" voainings nuist allect iiis numbers ; certainly more tlian the practice of killing only the cows and leaving
" the bulls, a custom which has i)rol>ably prevailed among the Indians for a hmg while, and which we
" canniit therefore consider as the source of the great nuxlern diminnti(m in their numbers."

'I'lie ranges of the butlalo in the north-western prairies are still maintained with great exactness, and
old hunters, if the plains have nut been burnt, can generally tell the direction in which herds will be
fouiul at certain seasons of tlu- year. If tiie ]ilains have been extensively burned in the autumn, the
search for the main herds during the following spring must depend on the course the fires have taken.

Red Uiver hunters recognize two grand divisions of butValo, those of the Clrand Coteau and lied
River, and those of the Saskatchewan. Other ranges of immense lierds exist furthe.- to the south, as
far as Texas and Mexico. The ninth-western butlido ranges are as follows, aud first with respect to
the lied Uiver range: the animals winter on the Little isouris, and south-easterly towards and beyond
Devil's Lake, and thence on to Red River and the Shayeune. Here too they are found in the spring.
Their course then lies west towards the Cirand Coteau de Missouri, until the mouth of .lune, when they
come north, and revisit the Little Souris from the west, turning round the west fiank of Turtle Moun-
tain to Devil's Lake, aud by the main river (Red River) to the Shayeinu' again. In the memory of
manv Red River hunters, tlu" bntfalo used to visit the prairies of the Assinniitoine as far north as Lake
Mauitobah, where, in fact, their skulls and bones are now to be seen; their skulls are also seen on the
east side of the Red River of the North, in ^linnesota, but the living animal is very rarely to be
met with. A few years ago they were accustomed to pass on the east side of Turtle Mountain through
the niue Hills of the J^ouris, but of late years their wanderings in this direction have ceased ; experience
teacliiiig them that tlu'ir enemies, the liidf-breeds, have approached too near their haunts in that
direction.

The country about the west side of Turtle Mountain in .Inno last was scored with their tracks at one
of their crossing places on the Little Souris, as if dee]) ])arallel ruts luul been artiticially cut down the
hill sides. These ruts, often one foot dee)), and sixteen inches broad, would converge from the jirairie
for many miles to a favourite crossing or driidiing place ; aud they are often seen in re;;ions in which
the bulfalo is no longer a visitor.

The great wi'steru herds winter between tlu' south and the north brauciu-s of tlu' .Saskatchewan,
and sDUtli of tin* 'I'oui'iiwood Hills : tiicy cross the south liraudi in .luiu- .-nul .luly, visit the prairies
on tiie soiitli side of liii" Touchwood Hill range, aud crossthe tiMi'.\ppelle v.illey any where between the
elbow of the South Hranch aud a few nules west of Fort Kllice on the Assinuiboiue. They then strike,
for tiie (irand Coteau de Missouri, aud their eastern Han!; often approiu'hes the Red River herds
coming north from the (irand Coteau. They then proceed across the Missouri up the Yellow .Stone,
aud return to llie Saskatcliewan as winter approaches, by the fianks of the Rocky Mountains. We saw
manv small herds belouuiiug to tin' western bauds cross the t,)u'.\ppelle Valley, and proceed in
single tile towards the (irand Coteau in .Inly last. The eastern bands which we bad expected to find
on the Little Souris were on the main river ( Red River is so termed by the half-breeds luinting in
tliis <|iiartcr). Tiicy bad pnicccilcd caiiy lliitlier, tar to the soulli of their usual track, in coiise(|Ueni'e
of tlie devastating lires wliicli .-.weiit the plains t'lMui the Koiky Mountains to Red River in the
aiituniu of IS.JT. We met lull's all uioviug snutb, when appniac liiiig l''ort Kllice: they iiiid <iiiue from
their winter (piarteis. near tlic Toucliwood Hill range. As a general rule the Saskatcliewan baiuls of
butlalo LTo north duiinir the autumn, and south liiiriu;' the sununer. Tlie Little .Souris :nid main river

haniN ( l!eil River)

-we!-t in summer .(iid south-east in aiitumu. It

iiuam that

lires interfere with this >vsteinat

will

ic migration: hut there are no otiier impediments

iilmost needless to

III

(llMTt

tl: liulf.ilo Ironi their ciiiir~e. Tlie liall'-lire.'ds -;t;ile that no slaiiLditer bv la

parties ol huiitcrs or

Indians call turn laiire herds tVoiu tl

jeiier.il (lircilioii lliev ha\e

til'

e iiiaii'U : v.ai

It of fooii is alniie able to make them deviate from the

approach ol iiiimcrou.-- Iienis
by applyliii; the car to a

■an be ri'cogiiized by a low. roiiililiiig souiii
ilger boll' — t'lillv tweiitv iiiile> bclni-c tliev

111 tl

lev oci'asiou

tak

ve t.ike
—best

eii wlicii on

if till

The
perceived

uriiui' the rultllig yca-ou tlicy i

an III

d bi

le weatlier he calm.

for a ,

frcat (li>lance on a

still

iiiu'ht.

\\l

'd ,11 the Sandy Hills, on the South Ihaiuli. the Crec>, on liciiig .isked if the biitfahi wen numerous
111 hand. aii>wcriMl, ■• Li>tcii to-niglit, and voii

hear llniii.

It for 1-

I iiitruiiuied a descript

•d tl

ptioii ol the

biill'a

Iters of Red River in the lield.

le anMiigemeiils and regulaliuiis of llie hunt fiMiii inform.ition given me by Mr. (J. I'lett.
The >tart i-^ usiiallv made from the Settlemeuls abiiiit the l.jlli of .lune lor the summer liiiiil, the liiiiiters

ri'iiiannni; ill the piaine

itil the '.'Dtli August or Ut of Srptei

Plain I i.'oes by the .\»iiiiiiliiiiiie l!i\or to the rapids

One ilivisioii (the White llors

tioii.

Till

ir Red River division

iL'. anil then prucci

'1 a Miulh-we^tcrlv dircc-

, pass Ol

1 to I'embina. and then take a soullierlv diiectioii.

Till

two iliM-ions SI

acciinliiiLr

oinetiines meet, but mil iiitentioiiallv. In .Mr. Melt's di\isiou in Is.li) ihcrr wen

to a census taken near the Chiefs' .Mouutaiu, not far Inim the .Sbayeuiie River, Dacotali Terri-
torv, tin:; larts. Tnil liall'-bn'cds, '.'on Indians, (iDn horses, iJon oxciu 4o() dogs, and 1 c:it.

Sir. Ko— t gives the following census of the number of carts assembled in cam]i for the bnrt'alo hunt
at livedilliTciit periods: —

III 1>'.'(I. Number of carts a.^sembled for the first trip
In l.s'-'.J. „ It „

In bS^o. „ n „

In lx:i.j. „ „ „

In 1^-10. „ „ „

- .-.40

- (iHII

- hiill

- U7II
•1,'JIO

'Hic mode in which the Crecs impound butl'alo is described iu Chapter III., page 64.

• .S'. p:'Kc' il.li;, Ki.l Itivrr Ili'llrjlt for IK,!T.

[ 'i'lii.' Iti'il lliviT :3ultlvuii*ht, its riw, prugrfN*, and {ircaenl ttatc.

LonJun, 18jS.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION

117

Ulind biift'alo are frc(iucntly found ancompanyiiif; herds', and sometimes they are met with alone.
Their eyes have been destroyed l)y |irairie tires; but their i|iiiol<ened sense of hearinpr and smell, and
their increased alertness enable them to jruard afjainst (laii<;er, and makes it more dilKcult to approach
them in (|uiet weather than those |)ossessin^' sifflit. The Imnters think that blind bulfalo freipiently
give the alarm when they ai'e stealthily approacbinjf a herd in an undnlatin<; <'onntry. When gallopin<f
over stony jjronnd blin(l bulfalo frequently fall, but when iiuietly feedin;; they avoid tlie stones and
boulders with wonderful skill. The domesticaticm of the Imtl'alo is a sulyect oi' uuuli interest to the
future population of Ued River, and the following' iuforuuitiou on that subject may be inqdicitly
relied on.

Humboldt in his "Aspects of Aature" (pajr'o f)(i) says that Albeit (lallatin, who, before he appeared
in Kurope as a distinjtuished diplomatist, hail obtained by personal inspection fjreat knowledffe of the
mieultivatcd part of the United States, assures us that '• the mixed breed was (piito common fifty years
" ago in some of the north-western counties of \'irginia ; and the cows, the issue of that mixture,
" propa^i.ite.l '.^'ve all others." "The favourite food of the buffalo is '/V//mv/c«h( dncti/liiidi's (buffalo
" grass), and an undescribcd species of clover nearly alli<'d to 'rriftiliiiiii ivpnis; and designated by
" Barton as 'J'rlfnlium hisanicuni. According to the statement of (ioinara, there was still living in the
" north-west of Mexico, in latitude 4()\ an Indian trihe whose principal riches consisted in herds of
" tame bisons or butfalo. Hut notwithstanding the ]iossibility of taming the bison, notwithstanding
" the ((uantity of milk it yields, and notwithstanding the herds of lamas iu the Cordilleras of Peru, no
" pastoral life or [lastoral jjcople were found when America was discovered, and there is no historical
" evideiu'e of this intermediate stage in the life of nations ever having existed there."*

In a description of donu'sticated herds of buffalo, and the results of crosBing with the common cow,
from the I'atent (Xlice Ueports, it is stated that the mixed breeds are of various colours; stri|)ed with
black on a grey ground, like tlie zebra; some others brindled red; some pure red, with white faces;
and others red, without any markings of white. The mixed bloods liave not only produced from the
tame and Imffalo bull, but it is known that the half-bloods reproduce, vi/.., those that were the jiroduct
of the common cow and wild Imtl'alo bull. At the first settlement of the country, cows that were coii-
sidcied the best for milking, were the half-l>lood down to the (|iiarter, and even eighth of the butfalo
blood. Ibit the writer's expcriiiieiits have not sati>tie(l him that the half Imffalo bull will produce again.
That the lialflireed heifer will be productive from either race, he has tested beyond the jiossibility
of doubt.

" The doincsticati (I Imll'iilo lelain^ the siiiiu' haughty licariug that <li>tiiigiii>lies liim in bis natural
" state. He will, however. Iced or fatten on whatever -nits the tame <iiw, and re(|uire> almut the same
" amount of food. I have never milked either the full-blood or mixed Ipieeil, liut have no doubt tiiey
" might be made good milkers, although their bags or udders are less than those of the coiiimon cow;
" yet, from the strength of the calf, the dam must yield as miicli, or even more milk, than the common
" cow."t

Next to the Imlfalo the horse is the mainstay of the luairie Imliai. . (Jood horses are not very
common among the Crees; they are, however, \ery intelligent and well trained. A good bulfalo
runner is iinaluable to them, for although it dues not itMiuire a fa>t horse to catch a bull, the cows,
pos^e-sinu ■:rcater speed, often outstrip them. A good Indian horse possesses some exci'llent cliarac-
teri>tii'<. lln' re-ult of training, wliiili it may be interesting t<i ciHiiii.rate. lor llie purpose of exhibiting
how adiiiii.iiily this animal serves his rude and savage masters. Wlicu gallnpiiig alK'r a bulfalo, an
Indian horse watches llii' animal as intently as his ri<ler, always i-werving when he observes the buffalo's
tail licyiu to vibrate, and lueaking into short gallo|) at his utmost speeil when he sees the tail erect, a
sure indication of an iniincdiate charge. 'I'lie rider may with safety entrust himself to lii> horse if
mounteil <iii a trained biill'alo runner; he will bi' carried within three yards of the flanks of liie animal,
and sab'lv withihawn when danger is thn'ateueil. If the horse stuiiililes and throws his rider, the
sagaiimis animal stops iii-laiitly and waits for him to mount again. A happy inslaiice happened to
invscir whiMi riding a tiery grey mare an OJihuay Imiiaii lent me to gallop iVum iiis lent to Slaiiitoliah
House, a distance of ti'ii miles. ■•She is my fa\ourite bulfalo ninner. said the Imlian, "and will not
" need the thong. ' >lie ran away with me, liowc'.cr, as soon as we reached a grassy opening about a
mill" across, and in the midst of her gallop the belly band broke, and iIk- little Indian siii'dle slipping
round, 1 was thrown at (Mii-e on the soft toil'. The mare slopped immcdiati'ly, turueil rnuiid and stood
bv mv sidi", waiting until I had ri-eii and adjusted the saddle. As soon as 1 mounted she started off
again, as if my sudden and imexpeitcd dcsi-ent had been intentional. At another time, when driving
a small cariole over the fio/iMi waters of Ited Kiver last winter, the horse, an Indian mie, not being
roughshod, slipped anil fell, luit without an clforl to rise reinained pi'ri'cctly cpiiet until I had loosened
the harness, when he scramlded up, gained a lougli portion of ice, and ipiietly waited to be harnessed
afresh.

liiilian horses are cNceilent wati'bers by night: our half brei'ds were aceustomed to note with care the
iis))ect of the horses before retiring to rest ; if they showed the least sifiiis of uneasiiu'ss, such as staring
about them instead of feeding ipiietly, or, when ieeding with the "liite" in their luoiilh, stoppinir to
listen, or snulling the air, or approaching the tires when the tlies were not triMililesomc, they would look
for the cause, and sometimes set watchers. When during the night, however dark, the lioises suddenly
approaihed the carts, the half-breeil would go to llieni, caress them, and watch the direction in whicli
they b'd or looked, knowing that their heads wiiuld be turned towards the danger, wliellicr of Indians,
or bears, or wolves.

One more instance will sutlice to show the docility iiiiil training of Indian horses. I was riding a
small horse which we had procured from the (recs on the l,lu'.\ppelle, in company with a black-foot
half-breed, some distance before the carts, in the valley of Lmig ( rei k.J As we ascended a small hill
we saw a bear iJ.'iil yards before us. My coiiipaiiion could speak but lew words of Kuglish, so with
signs he motioned me to dismount, and, having satislied himself that the horses saw the bear, he led

• Sii- Uiil IliviT Ili-poit, 1H,17, AppiMulix.

t Li)itg Cri'i'tt tloivg iniu thu Mum tiuitkau-littwiin, iii'nr i'utt t'l U Curiic.

i' 3

f L'. S. I'ulciil ORlcc Ucport.

118

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

them a few yards aside behind a dump of willows, and tying their bridles together he patted them on
the neck and ]iuintcd to the bear, caressed them again, anel afterwards motioned me to follow him. The
horses, with pricked ears, folidwed with their eyes every movement of tile l)ear, now slowly moving from

us, but OL'casiunaily stoi)ping to crop the twigs of willow. We crawled to leeward, and got within 70
yards of the boar, he then perceived us, I lired and sent a ball through his lungs. We waited to see if
he would rise again. Finding that he lay struggling on his back, we approached and dispatched iiini;

on looking round for tiie horses we saw them standing in the same place intently watching us. My
companion called tiiem, they canu- slowly up and stopped within K) yards, eyeing the bear all the
time. I' 'iiiding tiiat wc approached it and liandleil it, tiiey began to feetl, evidently being satisfied that
it was harmless.

Prairie Indians luM'oiiie very much attached to their horses, if they succeed in getting possession of a
valuable animal. 'I'hey often keep him in a tent, when in the neigiibourhood of an enemy's country or
among noted thieves of tiieir own tribe, lluring tlie daytime, when the camp is well sup|)lie(l with
meat and the buffalo are near, they . ■tiier him in the prairie, and indolently stretching themselves at
full length on the grass, iiatientiy watch him i'ced — lemoving the stake to a fresh spot as soon as he has
cropped the liest |)ar(ioii of the area limited by his tether. At night, when it was not thought necessary
to tether our liorses, we always lioppcd them, that is, tied theii fore feet togetlier witli dressed butfalo
hide. Iron iioppings are in great recpiest among half-breeds on their limiting expeditions. They can
then more safely allow their horses to feed some distance from the camp, but instances have been
ki'.iivn of Indians who have succeeded in approaciiing and catching a horse furnished with iron hop-
pings, in revenge for tlu'ir (iisappoiiitineiit at not being alilc to galloj) away with their prize, sending an
arrow through the animal or otilcrwi^e seriously ijijuring iiim. During the lly season, smokes are
made every iiiglit for tiie horses, and if this (irccaution is neglected they will remind their masters of
their want of care by surronnding the camp tire and pushing their nose into the smoke. It is this
habit of crowding round the smoke of a fire to avoid tlie torment of the flics wliich makes Indian hoi'ses
so dilKcult to drive from a prairie on lire. .Many are liurncd every year on account of tiicir being
unable to comprehend the danger wliich threatens them. Tiie liutl'alo are more wary, the smell of fire
is often !-ullicient to drive them from pastures where they have been (piietly feeding.

Next to the liinx' the d;)g Is the I'rairie Indian's most valuable friend. The dog is the great stand-
by of the s(|uaws, wlio have to attend to all the duties of the camp, the men employing tlicmsclves
solely ill Inmtiiig and lighting. The dogs dnig on jioles the camp furniture, the provisions, the little
children, and all the valuables of the family. It is a very aninsing sight to witness several hnndrcd
dogs solemnly engaged in moving a large camp, 'i'hey look wislfnllv at (lassers by, and take advan-
tage of the least want olaltenti;)n on the part of their mistresses to lie down, or snarl and snap at their
(ipinpaiiioiis in the work. They nevertheless obey the word of command with alacrity and willingness,
if not fatigued.

The midnight howl of tlin'e or four liundred dogs is an awful and appalling sound. It rises suddenly
from a low jirolongcd whine to a deep melancholy howl, canglit up again and again to the distraction
of tiicil travellers anxious to take rest in sleep. When any great event takes place, a dog feast is pro-
claimed, and it is siilliciently disgusting to sec the men handle and feel the nnl'ortiinate animals as if
they were sbeeii. with a view to select the fattest, so powi'iiul are early habits and associations in
directing oin feelings and tastes. Althongli some of the Indian dogs wc saw among the C'recs of the
Sandv Hills are large and ferncinus lonking animals, we never found them vicious or inclined to attack
lis; tliey were always deterred I'rom ap|iroarliing by the sight of a stick, ipr a feint at picking up a
stone.

Althongli I made many iiii|uirics, tlie Indians could give no inf(n'm;itioii respecting the oci'urrcnce of
hydroplioliia among llieir dogs, and the same iibser\atioii, as far as I could discover, ap])lies to the dogs
so niuncronsat l!c<l Kiver. and at the diirerent pusts nf the llndson liay t'ompany. I.argc numbers of
dogs are kept at the ( 'ninpany's I'nsts to haul sleds during winter ; in sunimer time they .ire led mi
lisb at lisliing statiniis; in the jirairie, they feed upon the otliil nf buffalo. l)oi;s will go for a week
without toiul, and vet get i.ito condition for travelling, if Will lid. in a fortnight or is days. At .Maiii-
toiiah House I saw lliein devour large pike ,ili\e. wliiib were lliniwn to them .as they were taken from
the net-. Indian dogs are terrible thieves, es|]e(ially those originating from a cross with the wolf It
was necessary to place out of iciicli i>\' under cover every article bearing the least reseinbliince to
leather when we were among the ( rees. ,\ careless half-breed would wake in the mornini; and liiid
his liarnes- eaten, or bis whip dcviMired : anil it sianefimes liaiipened that the long tether of butfalo
bide would be Iniind jiarlly coii-nmed by dogs if tlieir a|i|ietite bad not been lately appeased. The
wohes lia\c lliis trick also when food is scarce, especially when the letlier is allowed to trail loostdy
fripin the horse's neck without being attached to a stake, thus leaving liiin at lilierty to wander some
distance IVoiii the i-anip during the night. The voracity of dojrs during the w inter when travelling is
astonishing: several curious instances occurred diiiing our boineward journey which will be f mnd at
the cliise of tlii- narrative.

With Crees. Ojibways. .Suanipys, and Sioux, the dcig is snpp(is(.(i in lie the most acceptable sacrilice
to oll'ended deities: live dogs i- the common number fir this propitiatory oll'cring. In the following
chapter some instances are given of their sujierstition in this resjiect.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

119

CHAPTER XIII,

INDIAN ANTlqlTITIKS, — SUPKHSTITIONS AND (MISTOMS. — UKI.ATIONSHIP AND KIXDUKD.*-

A\n DisTninuTio.N.

Rnrity of Inilinn Antiquitip? in the Valley of tliQ Saskatchewan — Mnndan Hoiines — Tumuli on Kainy Hiver —
I'ottory — Mr. Schoolcrafi's views — Interniarriage of Tribes — Country of the Ojilway — Scalp Dnricis —
Wood and I'ruirie Indians — Indian punishment — Treatment of Prisoners — Conjurors — ('onjuror's Simp —
Incantations — The happy Iluntinj.' Groinnls — InHuence of the Conjurors — Tiie Ha<l;;er — Haunted Moles
and Caves — Saerillees and Otferinffs — Treatment of Wives — Decorations — Ties of Kindred and Kelatioii-
xhip; Illustrations— Relationship amnu^ the Iroquois. — Census of Indians — Number of Indians frequentin<;
H. 11. Co's Posts — Indians of the Saskatchewan Valley — lilackfeet Tribes — Assinniboiiies — Crecs — Sioux
or Dakotahs — Tribes of — Conjurors — Weeks — Lanj;uii(,'e — Common and Sacred — Character of Language
— HIackfeet Indians — Census of — Tribes ol^ — Country inhabited iiy Dlackfeet.

Indian aiiti(|iiities are rarely found in tlie \'alioy of the .Saskatchewan south of the North Branch.
The customs of wandering tribes iiihabitinj; a j)rairie country are freiierally opposed to the rude arts
whicli exist amonj; harljaroiis races preservitijf a fixed abode. Not even at tiie fishiuff stations on the
hikes and rivers, where dill'erent tribes iiave confirefiated at certain seasons of the year, probably for
eeiituries, do we finil any lastini; ineinorial of individual haiidicrart or combined labour.

Antitpiities to be ascribed to dill'erent races than those wiiich now occupy the country exist here and
there. Such are the iiiiderjjnmnd houses on Itaiiiy Itiver, f the Mandau houses .vitli tin ir entrench-
ments on the Little Souris ; but with these exceptioim no other ancient monuments were seen diirin<t the
exploration.

The rin;rs of stones markinj; the site of Cree encamiimeuts on the Qu'Ai)pelleJ: are of comparatively
modern date, and beloiift, doubtless, to the aiict.'stors of the present races now in possession of the
country.

Kiidi' pottery and arrow heads have been found at Ited Itiver settleineuts, about two feet below the
surface (d'the soil. The fraH:meiits resemble those so commou in manv l)arts of ( anada, and from their
inimbers lead to tiie inference that at a remote period the banks of tfiis stream were peopled by races
familiar with the art of inakinij vessels from clay.

The undcr^nound bouses at the Second l!;ipids in the \'a!ley (d' Itaiiiy liivcr, one of wliicli is 10
feet biirb and abinit liKi broad at the base, and the Mandau bou-cs and fort on the Little Souris
ffive wider liiints to the mound builders than Mr. Scboolcnd't stijrircsts in the llistiu'v. Condition, and
i'rospects of the Indian Tribes (d'tbe I iiited States, part ti. |)af;e (lo;5:

"The whole field of aiitii|uariaii re-canli, as re|)reseiue(l in the Mississip|)i N'alley momiments, may
he rejrarded as the local micleus and liijjbest point of dcvelopineiU of arts anil industry attaitu'd by the
Ited liace, alter their sejireifatiou from the immailic Toltei- stocks.

"These monuments are widely scattered, but they assMiiu> the same mixed sepulchral and civic
char/i^ler which is ap](arent in tiiose found alony the .MIcLibany bramii i\{' the Ohio in Western New
^■(U■k, and in utlicr parts ol' the ruiou. The larifcst mound in tliel'uion. and those wbiib ari' tnuicated
or terraced, bear the ilosest resi'inbl.ince to the Mexican teocalli. They occu])y the most southern

portions of the Mississippi N'alley and I

Tbev bi'cinne \r-

I'lillnli/ nl'ti

liiiii/ the latitude of Lake l'c])i

I th(

m size as we projjress m)rtli, am

isccmsm, ami tbe mimiiff excavatnuis oi

f Lak.

pper

Miss

ippi, the bead waters o

f the

superior.

One result id' tbe actiic pursuit of the fur trade for upwards of a century in the valley of the Saskat-

chewan is seen in tbe blemlmi.' of tbe ililVereiit tribes bv iuterm;

le ( 'ii

>l the I'lainsand tin

Ojibwavs and Swampvs id the wi

loiiirh s|icakin>r ditrereiit lamruaires. are often found buntim!

tbe bull'alo in company, and not uiilrequeutly form family comiexion

mav now lie iliscovereil, summer anil winter, near

Wiimipi

liavini; eini^'iated KM) inili

'S west id

Ked Kiver, when

till

the (i
have

The Ojibwavs of Li.ke

ilv
Wiim

All the Ojibwavs now found west of tbe Lake of the Woods and the cast

d h'orks of tbe Saskatche
iMiiianeiitlv established tbein-
st of Lake

vadevs of the coiiiitrv.

ipcfT are iii
St, and north of Lake Siipi
iilry the emijrraiits or invaders now ouupy. Tliey an

le real Home ol
leir habits of life

the Oiibwav is the

ion about the south,

e chaiifred with the cbaracter of the

Imuier dependent ii|ion the forest for

their siqiply of fiioil and ilotbiii!,' ; but many of them, on tbe banks o( the Assiniiiboiiie. lied Kiver. Lake

Maiiitobab, and Dauphin Lake, and

hor;

es, and jotii

tbe

till

St (lank of the Itidiiij;

alf-br

'(■(Is III tlieir annual sprui

Duck Mountains

possess

and fall bunts. Notwithstaiidiinr this iiiter-

li; ■

course and blending; of diil'erent nations, most (d' the superstitions and customs peculiar to (mcIi are
still maintained and practised

Nearly one hundred years af,'() (1770), Mr. Iliitchins, of the Hudson liav ('oiii])any's service, framed

an enumeration of tbe tribe between Lake Wi

ipejr

within 100 mi

of .la

lia

spr

aki

the Ojibway loiifjue. The names id' the tribes will be fiiund in Sir.Iobn Kichardson's .loiirnal, pape 'iil

American eilitio

The tribes enumerated hav

from tliei'' hiintiiif; and lishiiiff stations

ve evidently derived tluMr names, as in the |n("sent day

till

It is (d'teii aski<d whether the thrillinn; descriptions of sava;fe life, as i;iven in Cooper's delifrhtful

* A portion of tills clt'iptcr Ims Iil-imi piililisticd in tite Ciiniitlinii Juunuil fur July.

I At thi> vi'coml nipiilsiMi :tn ixtflisivi' iiri'H ilcniKJcil iit'trrr,.. hmiil;; ,i vi-ry la'Hiitit'ul nppi'nranct', nri' two iinmi'ilsi' minimis uliicli
appi'iiri'il til III' (iiiiitili. \\\' tiircfd mir \v;iy to tlli'in, tliri iigli ii lirnsr };niHlti nl' yriisses, luttli"-, .mil luliiiiittiiis, tiii-.tui toi^i'ilur liy tlu'
U'ilil inin ' 'ms. Our p. all to tlio niiiiiii<U piissril lliri)U|;li .t iK'^U'i'ti'il liulitin ^arilrii, .ind iii'iii tin- liL-LMVin^ hid^t' pnlis ut' an ivtc'ti-
sivi' »-iinii..,..in'in. 'I'lii* iiitiiiiht iiM-cniliit was iiliinit 40 tii't lii^li, anil llM liritaii at t!u' Ii.im'. It "as luinpDM'il til" a rich black
sandy loam, rontaiiiin^ ii largt> ipianlity ul' vcgL'tRbk' matter, anil on lliggili.i^ n loot lU'i'p no iliau^c in llio ctiaiiu-ter of tllu '^oil was
olislTvalili' ■-/((./ Wiivr «f/mr', I H.IT,

X (llmptcr 111., pagu li 1 .

P 4

120

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

romances, arc imaginary or real ; and, it' real, wlicther they exist now among the tribes wiilcii have
long been familiar witli civilized man, Huch as the Plain Crees, the Sionx, the Swampys, and the
OjibwajH. It is enough to vi.-iit the secluded Ojibway graves, on tlie banks of He(l River, and
behold there Sinux scalps decorated with bends, bits of cloth, coloured ribbons, and strips of leather
suspended at the extreuuty of a long slender stick, near the head of the grave, to feel satislied that one
barbarous custom still prevails. Hut to be an eye-witness of a scalp dance, or a skull diuice, is more
than enough to i)ress home the conviction that the tiundish j)assions, so faithfully described by Cooper,
still iiud ex]n'ession in violent gesture, loiul vociferation, triumphant song, and Imrbarous feastnig,
with undimiuislKf' strength and bitterness, even after a century's intercourse with civilized man.

In the following paragraphs I shall etiileavour to describe s(mie incidents which will show how far old
superstitions and i iistdins prevail among the Indians occupying the country between Hod Uivcr and the
south branch of the Saskatcbcwan.

Karly last spring, the warlike bands of Ojibways, called the Lac la I'luie Indians, were thrown into a
state of savage excitement by tlu- arrival of messengers from their IVienils <>u lied Kivcr, with tidings
that two Sioux had been killed and scaljied in tlu- ])laiiis. In tcsfimoiiy of this triumph they brought
with them two fmgcrs severed from the hands of the unfortunate Sioux. The anuouiu'cmciit of the
intelligence that tiu> scalps would lie sent after their l{cd lliver brethren had celebrated war dauccs
over them, was received witii wild clamour aiul shouting. After the scalps had been carried from band
to hand, an<l the vi<t(U'y that won them Iriuuipbcil over with dancing, singing, and feasting, they would
be returned to the warriors who took them, and linally suspended over the graves of relatives or
friends mourning the loss of anv of their kindred by the bauds of the Sioux.

The Wood iiuliaiis assemble ni the spring to celebrate their medicine feasts and other ccrennmies.
During the sununer they separate into families or small bauds, and hunt, \\>\\, or go to the plains in
search of bulialo. At the approach of winter they 'Make delit, " or otherwise obtain supplies at the
(iitlcreiit posts of the Company, and n'tire to their winter ipiarters to traji the fur-lieaiing animals. The
Plain or I'rairie Indians follow the Uuttalo, and vary tiie monotony of their exi«teiiee bv forming war
parties against llieir eneniio, >ucli a> the Plain Cr.'cs airain>t the Sioux and tile Ulackl'eet, the Ojiliways
against the Siorx.

When on the ^outh branch of the Saskatchewan last August, wc found tlie Plain Crees hastening
from the west to liie ea>t hank of tlie river, at tlu' elhow. witli a slron;,' war-party of HIackfeet in pursuit.
The chief Sliortslick pointed out some of bis baud will) bad penetrated through the lilackfeet countrv
to the lujcky Mountains two years ago. and returned Hitli several scal|i», griz/ly bear (laws, ueckiaees,
pipes, and other tro|phics of success. lie al.-o related with nuich teeling how L'.i vonug war-
riors bad gone on a similar excursion the sunniu-r before ia-t, but none had yet returned. Last
•Inly (ls.",s) a large body of the Plain Crees met a portion of the lilackfeet tribe at tlie Lagle Ilill>, <in
the Ndrlii liranch ol the >askatche»an. to arrange terms of peace. .Ml matters went on >Mioothlv. and
the representatives of the two nations separated as friends. Snuie of tlie Crees. however, nnapable of
resisting tlie opportnnil v. stole some horses IVoni the lilacklcet. They wen" pursued, and tiiree ot'theni
taken. One was killed instantly : the others v. ere led liack in triiimpb to tlie camp of the lilackfeet.
They were stripped, their hands were tied behind their hacks, a bole was bored through both wrists, and
a stick [lasscd thvough llicin and so liglitly fasli'iied that it could not he removed without assistance; the
ca|)tivi's were then separated, and dismissed siuiily to lind their way to their friends. One only reached
his tribe, and was lying in a tent wliich we passed on the banks of the l,hf.\ppelle, near the south
branch.

Shortstick, when relatiii;: tliese adventures, held up ilie pipe he had ill bis band, and exclaimed,
" This is what my lilackfoot trieud gave me one day, the nest lie killed my young men: hi' is now my
'• enemy aixaiu." I e\piessed ,i wish to purchase llie pip,'. Tlie chief's reply was, " T.ike it, " b.inding
it to me with a gloomy frown, and silently exieiidic" his hand for the common '•clay " which 1 was
smoking at the time. The great chief ot' the Plain (ices is styled "the I'ox." He is held in high
estimation hy all the Plain Indians with wlioin Ic comes in contact, cither in peace or war. He is
dre.ided liv the Sionx. the lifickfeci. tlie liloodics. the h'all Indians, the .Assiiinihoiues, and ,ill the tribes
who occasion.illy bunt oiillie (irand Coteaii de Missouri .mil the South liranch of the Saskatcliev\aii.

The cruel, hailiarnus treatnient of prisoners so oi'ti'ii described in narratives of Indian warfare is
common even now in the ]irairies suulli of the (,iu'.\p|ielle and the .AssinniJHiiuc. Not a year passes
without two or more of the lied Kivcr hall-hicc ds heiii',' scal|icd liy >iinix : someliiiics, as was the
case last yi'ar. ipiite close to the i-clllemcnt oi' M. .lo»e|ili, near the Loninhuy line, about :iii miles
west of lied lliver. When a prisoner is taken the Sioux soiiietinics adopt a tcnible mode of death
during the summer season. Tlicy have been known to i-trip a liall-biecd, tic liini to a stake on the
borders of a marsh in the prairie, and leave liim exposed to the attacks of uiillioiis of musipiitoi's,
without lieiiig aide to move any part of bis body, and wlieii the agony of I'l'ver and the torment of
thirst conic upon liiiii, they leave him to die a dreadful, lingeriiiu' death, with w;iler at his feet, and
bn/zai'ds hoverini;' and circling around him in greedy expectation.

liy wav of illustr.itiiig the ch.uacter of the meilicine or coiiiuriiig ceremonies wliiiii niay be wit-
nessed dining all sca-oiis of the year, when seveial families are eiicain|)ed together, I .shall describe
a scene of wliiih I was an eye witness last siinuner, near the Hudson Hay Coni[)any's post in the
Touchwood Hill.-, between the South liranch of the Saskatclievvan and the .\ssinii)oiiie. The conversa-
tion was carried on in Ciee, but, I iielieve, laltlifidly interpreted to me by the ollicer then in "har!.'e of
the post, who was present. The interprelalion was pronoiiiiced exact by one of the Cree half-breeds
attached to my party.

.\t the time of my .inival at this post, .-i coiiiuror of some celebrity was eudeavmiring to euie a
sickly vvinuan by the e\ercisc of his cunning. The sick woman was Iviiig in a biilValo-.skin tent.
The coujnror, painted and decoiated, employed himself III beating a mediciiu' drum will. in a few feet of
her, and singing at intervi'ls the following words, first ntlered s|o«|y, with a pause between each word,
then as in ordinary conversation, lastly, with energy and rapidity :- -

" t.rt'at — is— till-— man — wlio— w.ilks— -
111— Uii- — iniildU — iif— till- — earth, —
I!« — in— Itii — tiiily— irui' — Lord."

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

131

Till" word '• Lord" is not ('in|iloyp<l in tin- mmisi- of riuiircinc master, hut is ratlicr intondod to rnnvcy
nil idea ol' iiido])ciidi'iic(' anil iiidividiiai |)owi'r, and is hcitiM' ('Ni)rt'sscd in Eiijflisli, as tiie lialt'-lni'i'da
iiifornu'd nic, liy tin- word •';ii'ntli'inaii."

Tlio coiijnior o( rasinnallv I'anic out ol' the ti'nl ; and wlifiicM'r tiic siipnosod Maiiitoii m- fairy, wlio
was tlic allc^ri'd cansi' ot' the woinanV illiii'ss, apprnailicd, a litllc l)cll, Mispcnduil I'roni tlic poles
8iipportin>r tlif tent, tiukli'il, and •'avc tin- alarm; the I'onjin'dr iiniiicdiali'ly sci/.cd liis dinni, coinnu'iici'd
liis son;?, and hy his incantations snci'ccdcd in pacilyini^ the Manitoii. 'I'lii'sc pro('r('din;;s coiitiiMUMl
for two nijflits ; at the pIosc of the second nij^ht, at'lcr a piiilonjrcd riit;,dni; of the little hell, violent
shakinjj of the tent l»des, loud heatin^^ of the drnni and chaniilin^r of the words helbre (pioteil, the
conjuror annoniieed that he had discovered llie reasons of the .Manitiin's anger, and the means to
appease it.

Son had a dream, said the conjnror, and when you rose in llie ini)rniii<f yon promised to make an
ofl'eriii;; to the Maniloii, yon have for).'otteii yonr pledge iind you are -iiK,

'i'he woman demanded what she had dreamt and wliat .i'e had promised, avow intr her ignorance oflKJlh
dream and jn'omise. 'I'he conjnror told her that when the Imlfalo were aronnd her tent last winter,
and no fear of starvation hefore her eyes, she h;.d ilreained that the hulValo wiinld always snrronnd her
that famine and sorrow were always to he sfapgers to her, and in <;rafitnde had vowed to make a
sacrifice of her hcst rohe. 'I'he woman, wearied no doiiht with the <'()njuror's unceasing drum and
song, proliahly too, helieving that a false confession was the Icssci- evil, as it might hriiig the promised
relief, acknoHledged thai the conjuror was in ihe right. 'I'lie |K'nalty she was l(dd to pay consisted (d'
the sacrifice of throwing away two rohes, or douhle the ainonnt id' the proniie she had made; after
which her health was to he restored.

Scenes similar to the one just descriheil may he wltiies-ed whenever several families are cam])in^
together; hut the sacriliccs re<|iiiii'd to he made depend upmi the aliilily of the deluded creatures to
satisfy the demands of the coiijiiror.

"'Ihe Happy 1 limting (ironnds," the IIisimmi of Indians, so often -poken of hy writers of liction,
are an actual leality in the imagiualiiais of Crecs and ( )jil)way<, as well as of other north-western
trihes. A I'laiii Crec <in the (,lu'A|ipelle gravely iiiformi'd one ot my men that he had heen dead once
and visited the ^jiirit world. Ili^ narrative was to the fnljowing ell'ect : — "I was sick, and hdl asleep.
" I awoke on the hank of a deep river, whose waters were llowing swiftly and hlack from a great inist on
" the sonlh to a great mist on llie north. Many other Indians sat on the hanks of Ihe river, ga/ing at its
" water^, and on the gloomy shore which lay wrapped in mi I on the oilier side, 'lime alter lime llie mist
'* hefore ns would roll away and reveal the moulli of another great river pouring its tlooil into the one on
" wlio^e hanks I vva-. silting. The coiuilry to the scmlh of this river was hiight and glorion-, to the north
" dark and gloomy. On tin' one side wire the happy luinling ground-, on the other the hnuliug gnmiids
" of ihe had Indians. Time alter lime my companions tried |o cross ili,. swift stream hefore us, in oidi'r
" to reach the happy luinling grounds; some arrived in sal'ely. oilier^ reached the north hank, and
'• disappeared in the mist which overluiug Ihe had country. I tried at hist, hiil the i-nrrcnl vv.is too
" strong for me, the rccollecliim of had dccils prevented ir.c from sji-iimiing llie cnneiit, and I was
" s«ept (III lo llie north shore of the oppn>ite livcr. I scramhicd up llie hank, and spent many moons
" in liunliiig in liial dreary land; always on the point of starving, ov heing hurt hy enemies, ipr vvct and
*■ c'old and miscrahle. At leiiglh I came upon a river like the one I had iio-sed, with mists and a
'• i^reat siveam o|i|Mi-ile, hreakim.'' clouds revelling liappy hmiliiiL;- grounds on one side, and a nioie

i.doomv anil Icrrihlc conulry on llie oilier side. Other Indiuis vvii-e then

hefi;

iking at the

river ami Irving to cro-s

wicked li
I look I'OI

I I

succeeded, a few were swept to ihe had coimlry. these were vi'rv

ried to (loss.

I hail

lieeii a goo

I Inilian in this (h'

varv Inintiiiir yroiiml,

am! s«am sinnii.'' auan:

" leaves, I

lisa|ipeai'c<l a

s I

I ihi' -tream. I reach llie haiipy huating grounds; all my

died to the lop of the hank and saw hcl'ore me Indi.ais

iiillalo oil

fr.'sl

the dislant plains thick as rain drops in suminer, a cloiidhv

numeiiiiis as
I

I, sci'iiteil.

;ippy

V ahove, and a warm

owing ill my face. I sank lo slei'p, and woke akaie in my tent

these prainc-
Whali

I'ailli the Imlian

medicine men pi

in the ulllcacv of llicir charms, it is cerlain that

till

vhi

v eiilertain great respect for the while man's medicine. .\ laughalile incidenl occurred al llie
I'lchwood Hills. The conjuror of whom meiilion^ias ju-t heen made eiiten'd the rooia al the post

silling wii

h Mr

is. II., w I

lo vveri' lemporarily iii cuarge.

The Imli:

lan and a cnn.-

lailion sealed ihemsclves upon one of my liii';es which loulaiiied a small medicine chc

-t. Mrs II.

-kcil mi' lo give her some stiiking plasiiT. I crossed llie reom to open llii' iiu'diciue chest, when

Mr-. II. (a

hall-Ill

licr linsliaiHJ. in the

(■

ingiiage

\Vi

le oiiens lliem .'

Mr. II.

an.swercil icslmgly.

Ins medicines do me aiiv
• \'es, von

h|i|t<i

harm if I slop here whih' I

iiilo ihe other room." On molioning Ihe Indians lo move, ihev rose, .nid 1 opciu'il ll
lomeiil thev -au llie hollies, lliev hurried oiil of the nmin, ha-lcucd to llie siimmil of a iicighliouiiiii;

Till

hill, ail

I. (1

iveslini; llicmselv.

rlicle of

liiioU llieir garments rcpealcillv. ai

id, .'ific

hanging them on hii-his in llie sun. sipialled oii their haunches to awail the deodori/iiig intliieiuc of

tlie liieeze.

In the vallcv of ihe I.Ui'Appclle Itiverwe frcipieully fiiiind oll'criugs lo Maniluu or fiiiics suspended
1 hranchcs of trees; ihey ciiii>is|cd ol' iVagiin'iils of cloth, strings of heads shreds of painted liuM'alo

lai hranclics o

hide, hears' Ici'lh and cla

never luolcslcil or

in the vallev

and oilier Irilli's. Our lialf-hii'eds alv

liUcd lo see ns iiioli

-I till

lese oll'enngs lo

nnloii.

ays ri'garded llii'in wiili res[icct, .iiid

us cuslom prevails everywhere

iif Lake W inuipeg, and il may Iriily he said that lla- mediciue drum is heard fir mo;

fri'i|

iienlly iii some p

Irishes of Selkirk SelllemiMil llian ihe sound of churcii hi '.Is

onpiror

elehraleil for ihe potency of his cliarms wi

11 oft.

n e\ercise a verv

nil. ins miliieiice

over an eiilire hand consisling of In or I'J f.imilies. in deterring iliem from I'leipienling particulir
hunting or fishing grounds if lliey otfend him. Out of niimerons iiislames of this dangerous iulhieiico

I select Ihe fi

occurred on

lar...

the Dauphin Iti

leii ascending lliat si

in[i of Ojilnvays, who were on tin

to the Hudson l!av ('

ream we came
s I 'list ;il

J'airford. 'j'heir usual wintering place was at the I'iko's ilead near the mouth of Jack-lisli rivei

I2i>

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINK AND

c<\i't'll(Mit Hsliiii^^ station nil l.akt' W iiiiii|i('i;, hut tlicy liiiil aliiiii(li)iiril the iiiti'iilion iiC wiiitiM'iii^ tlicro,
in ('oiiM'i|ii('iii'i' III' a tlniMi wliirli li.iil liri'ii i'imim'M'iI In lliciii I'l'uiii a iiiiti'd iiiiiinriM' stylcii "tlio
l!aii<:t'i'." Ill' till' (iiaiiil liaiiiii hI tlir Sa^kalrli"\\aii. In tlii> I'lVrrt that il the haiiil \riitiii'ril In wiiilcr at
I ill' I'ilii'V Ih'ail, "in- « 1 11 ill I ilii -iiMii'lliiii;;'. ' 'l'hi~ anihiunuii- liirral \va- (|Mili' .^iillirit'iit In ilrli'V thciii
iVniii \i.<itiii,!; ihi'ii'niil liaiinl>. anil wnniil prnhal'ly hi' inslinnirnlal in |ii'nihii'iii;:' innili siiliViin^, if not
arlnal want. In many nf tho haiiil.

I'lu'ii- arc many plaroh nil l.akr Winniiu'j; anil Manitohali, wliicli llir liiiliaiis who hunt anil livi- nil
till' siioii's 111' tliosi' ^rrat lake!- ilaii' not \i--it. riirii' i'* siairi'ly ii ravi' or In'aiilani! wiiirli has not
;niin' li'n(.nil atlarliril tn il. I'ainiiiai tn all lln' waiiilrri'r'^ on llicsi' roasts.

On till' VM'st r-iili' 111 l.aki' N\ ihiii|ii'i,', in iho Iniifi'. ilark. ami i;liiniiiy iliamh(Ms I'nrmcil Iiy tlssiiros in
till' liiiH'stniii'. liail spirils aiT -iiiiliiiMil In ilwrll. an niiliii^'^ In the hrlicl' nl' llii' Iniliaiii »hn linnt on
tlu> coasi, ami lir \Minlil In' a |in\M'rl'iil rhanni'r who mulit inilnri' a lirallirn Inilian In a|i|irnarli, nnirli
ii'ss niter, the ahnile- nl' these imafiinary Maiiilniis.

Near l.iiiiesinne ('a\e I'nini are se\eial of ihe.-e Miiipnseil fairy ilwellin^'-s. When an liiiliaii
a|i|irnaelies iheiii in his laiine, he either leaM's an nireiinjj; nr eaiiliniisly ^.'ives them a uiile iierlli.

On Lake Mamlnliali. Steep limk I'oiiit is a nnleil iK\elliiii;-|ilaie I'nr the " l.illle Men." 'I'iiis
ineality is ileserilieil in (liMiiler l.\. Some nl'llie Iraililimis eninieeteil with these plaees are \ery ahsiird,
aiul appeal tn have little iiieaniii;;' In ei\ili/i il men : lieM'itheli'ss. aiiinii;,' the liarliarnns trilies nf thnse
resiniis. thev are assmialeil wilh their pa-l liislnry. nr with the hislnry nf the race that preeeileil iheiii.
Maiiitnliah Lake, a Imily nf Hatei of very impn-iiiy- iliiiii'iisiniis. ha\inn' an area nf I.'.hki .-i|nare miles,
(leri\es its name from niil' of these siipeistilion-. I stayed for three da\- on this dreaded i-lanil. where
a .Maiiitoii dwells, Init allhnni;li Indians pa-seil and repassed, heard and answered onr shots, yet they
eiiiild not he persuaded In land. 'I'lie niil\ e> iilenee nf fairy pri"-eiiee wliieli I met with, was the
'■fairy-like nnisic"nr the waves nf Lake Miiiiilnliah, liealiim iipmi the hard limeslniie ^hin/jle on the
lieaih. and prnihieiii,:;- a very heanlil'nl and iiielamlinlv reseiiililanee tn distant ehiireh hells. All nifjlit
Iniiir t'ni> riiiiiiiifr nnisie.il sniniil was heard, and would, nn dniilit, in the ailive inia^inatinii of Indians.
snyijesl the e\isteiue of those Maiiilniis with wliieh they people the air, the water, the furest-, anil
the eaves nf the earth.

Sarriliees and nU'erinj^s are nf very frei|ni'nl lurnirenie amniiji- the Indiaiw of the >askalrliewaii
^'alll'^. The eiistomary otl'eriii^' eniisisls nf Iwii, tliiee. and snmellmes live doys. ,\t the mniilh nf
ihe l,in'.\ppelle liiver, all Indian, in .liine last, el his net and eaii;;ht ,i larf;e li^li of a kind dillerent
In any with whiih lie was familiar, lie immediately preiioimied il tn he a Manilnii, and larefnily
leviniinjr it In the water aifaiii. al oine ~arriliied live valuable doi.'> to appease the .inyer of the snppn-ed
fairy. On ap|irnailiin!;- Lnii;; Lake, an aim nf the (,iii Appelle IJiver \ alley, the trees warned lis
lint to visit the lake liy iii;i|il. as it was full of devils. 'I'liey told nie \ery extraordinary tale~ of llie
dimensions and imwer of these deviU, and a|ipear In live in awe and terrnr nf them.

Like ninst heathens and liarharoiis raies. Indians iiiU'er iiineli from llieir superstitions fear-. Vilieli
the weather i.s line, and their tents are well supplied with provisions, they are an independent and
joyous jienple, l-'iill nf I'rolie, and fond of relatiii;jf alieidntes, lliey laiijih Immnderalelv al anv Iritliiu'
jnke nr ahsnidily, .ind seem tlioiniiiihlv to enjoy esisteme.

When vi>ilin;; the Crees nf the Sandy llills.'nn the Sonlli liraiieli, and pas-in^- the door of tin' lent
iMloiiL'injr In Slii.rl-tick's eldest son (see ( 'h:i|i. \'.i. who aeeoinpanied me. 1 oliM'rved a Viiiill'.' sipiaw
Milsiile. leanin;,'- ,||, 1,11 >tiiks. evidently ill ;,neat Irniilile. and weepiliir liitteily. The mnnienl she saw
Us she linhliled inin llie tent, with a low iry of pain, and closed the entr.iiiie. I asked the inleipreler
what this meant. .Mter some eniiversatinii with her Inisli/nid. he said thai the wnni;iii was siill'eriiu;
i'riiin a heatin;!' he had iriveii her fnr .i vinlatinii of her faith iluriii;.' his ahsenee in the spriiiir on a war
e.Neiirsinn. "I wnuld have killed her. " mnllered the luisliand, '•lint I tliiiuf,dit it a pilv In kill two
'■ at unre. .^he hail her eliniie whether shewnnld liavr her hair, her linse, nr her ear rut nil', nr whether
'• -]\f would have a lieatiiif.'. She cliiise what she has fi'ol ; .iiiil I would have killed her had I iinl knnvvii
■• I should reirrel havinif killed hotli." It is needless to ,iild that the woman sonn expeeled to heeoine
.1 mother.

>niearin;j' the skin with diirerem enlmired pi;.;nienis is a universal euslnin amniifr the wood and prairie
Indians. Someiimes the o|ieratiun is verv ta-tefiiUy perl'nrined. W'arrinrs on the " «ar-p;illi' ofleii
paint the tli;nre of the hand over the inontli. as i^jed in soundintr llie w.-ir-whoop : this is a distiinlive
si'.;ii thai the lliiliaii so deroraleil has lieeii reeeiilly. or is still. eiiL'a^'ed in the pursuit of his enemies.
Nirmillinii is the most enveted eolonr. The Ojiliways are very fond nf deeoialiii!,' their fares with
tills lirilliant piirmeiit. The ]ilaiii ( 'rees are iiartial to white and frieen; and linl niiiy paint the I'aee,
1ml alsn the ehest and arms. The I'laiii Crees rut and !.':.'i-li the skin and llesh mi the arms, sides,
I'u'st. and leiis. as a Inkeii of ^rlef I'nr any decea-ed friend or relation. My friend Shortstiik's
l.irily^ was dreadlidly dislijiured hy sears friiiii wniuid made hy hiiii-elf in manifestation of his
jrrief.

'Ihe iiri;,nii of the alpori;,'liii's on this loniini'iit still remains enveloped in thick darkiie-'-. Many of
their tnanners, sniierstitions. and customs corivs|ioiid to those of Orientals, .iiid it is not iinprohalile

liiat modern ril In;;ists may lie mi the ri;.'lit track in iheir eH'orls in solve this deeply intcrcslinc-

ipiCstinll.

llnmhnlili icIU ns, in his " . I .v/i< <•/.< „J' Xnlmr,'' that he '•re'rards the cNislcnce of ancieiil eiiiniexions
hetweeii the iiili.iliiiants of Western ,\ineriea and I'aislern Asia as more than proliahle: hut hy what
riiiites, nr with vvliat .'Vsi.-itic natinns the cniimnmicatioiis took jilace. caniiol at present he decided. ,\
small mnnlier of individuals of the ednciled pricsily caste mic-lil. perhaps, he >ullicieiil to lirini,'- ahoul
;jreat alleralions in ihe civil and social state of Western America.

■•The stories I'm nierlv narrated of Chinese expeditioic- to the New Continent reallv apply nnlv to
vnyau'es tn I'n-.ni^f nr .lapaii. On the other hand. .Ia|iaiiesi' and Sian-l'i. frniii the ( 'orea, may liave
hccii driven hy storms to the Aineriean coast and landed there. We know, as a nialter of history, that
Jionzes and other adventurers >aili'il over the ea.'U'rii Chineso Seas in search of sonic medicine
which sliieild I iiliicly prevent death. I'liiler Tseliin-clii-kiiai!,i;'-ti, '.'dil years hefore our era, ;!o()
younn' cnujiics (y.iUiii; men and youn^f vvomeii) were seiii lo .lapaii, and instead of roturnin;,^ to China

SASKATCTIKWAN KXPLORINr, EXPEDITrON.

123

tlipy Kcttlcd at Niiwin. Miiy iiof "imilfir t'xpcditiDnM liavc hccn drivt'ti liy storms nr other iicciclciits
to tlic Alcuti.in IsIiukN, to Aliislika, or to New ( 'iilifiiriiia .^ Am the wrsti-rti conitN of tin- Aiiirricaii
Coiitint'iil triMid Irmn nortli-Hcut to Koutli-cast, and llu- eastern coasts of Asia in the opposite diree-
tioli, or from tin- north-east to (he soMtli-west. the disli,inie lirtweeii the t«o eoiilinents in l.( de>r.

of hititilde, or in thi' temperate /one, which is mo-t favonrahle to mental development, is I -on-

siderahle to admit of the probaliility of such an accidental -eltlement takinf; plaic in that lalilnde.
We mnst, then, assnine the first landing; to have l>(>en niaih' in the inhospitahle climate of from
.Vl dei;. to il.i de^., and that the civili/alion thns iMtrodiiced, like the j^nieral movemcnl of popnlation
in America, ha-- proceeded liy sncce-sive station, from north to sonth. The remains of ships from
Calhav, i.i;, from Japan or China, were snpjiosed to have Keen fonnd on the coasts of Ninihcrn
Dorado (calh'd (,tni\ira ami ('ihma), at the hcifiiiniiif,' of the si\teenlh centnry. 0»r knowled'c of
the lanf,'na."e-' of Aineriia is still too limited, c(in>idcrini,' ihi'ir f,'reat variety, for ns as yet entirely
to reliiiipiis 1 |i,e ho|)e of some day discovering' an idiom which may have lieen spoken, with certain
liiodilications, at ')nce in the interior of Sonth America and in that ol Asia: or which may at Ica'-I
indiiate an ancient iilHnity. Such a di-coverv would certainly he one of ihi' niosf lirilliant wliich
I'an III' especlcd in ridcrencc to the history ot mankind. Mnt analoijies of laiiLMiaifc only deserve
eontidence when the inipurer, not restinu- in or dwelhiiL' on resemhlances of sound in the roots, traces
the analn^ries into the orfianie structure, the jrrammatical forms, and into all which in hniiruaKes shows
itself a- the product of the hmnau intellect and character."

In order to understand the character and Mature of wild Indians, they nnisf Im' >een in their tents
when well -npplied with provisions, and disposed to he cheerful and merry. In ihi' prairies when on
llorseliack, tliey are often ipiict and watchful, alway- on the look out, and if -" or :l(l are it)
a hand, they generally manajre to >ee a suspicious oliject in the distance at the same moment, so that a
simnltam'ous note of exclamation is uttered hy most or all of the party. In huutiii;: the hulValo they
arc wild with cMMlemeiit, hut lio scene or incidciU -ecuis lo have such a maddcuiuf;' etVect upon them
a- when the hntl'alo are succe-.-fnlly iliiuii into n pinnid. I ntil the herd i-- liroucht in hy the skilled
hunters all is sileiu'e aroUMil the fence of the pound, men. women, and children with pent up I'eelinys,
holiliii^' their rohes so as to close evciv oritice tluonj;li which llic lenilied animals iiiifiht eudea\our to
elicit an escape. The herd once in the pound, a scciu' of diaholi.al hutchciy aiul escitemenl lpc!;iiis;
men, wouu'ii, aud children clindi ou the leiice and shoot arrows or thrust spears at the licwildercd liuD'alo,
withslioui<, screams, and veil., horrililc to hear. I'ut when the vonnir nieu, and even woiucu juiup
into the arena amidst the dyiii^' and the dead, snu'ar theinscUes with lilood, thrust their arm.- np to
the shoulders into the reckiiii;' hodies of their \ictinis, the savaye harliarity of the wild prair'c 'niliaii
sliow.s itself in its true colours. Not e\eii .1 scalp dance o\cr many fallen foe~ all'ords such a tcriihle
jiictiire of de;.'radcil luiniaiiity as a lariic haml of prairie liidiaus. *ome hundreds ill niimher, iluriui,'
and alter the slaiiclilcr of luiilalo in the pound.

The ciaiilitioii of the Jndians of the Saskatchewan \ allc\ at the present day i^ M'ry dilVcreiit to
what it Used to lie half a century siiiic. Not only have imported diseases irreatly diiniiiishiil llieii
nnmhers, hnt '_;anic o|' dilVereiil kinds has become so scari'c that durin;^' some seasons starvation 1> no
tiiiion.

Ill -ickness pr.iirie Indians aie much depri'sM-d, and often seek consolaiion in the uionotonons drum
of the incdiciiie man aud his heatheni-h incantations. ,111 intliction which the ■;ro-?c>l and most dehased
snper~lilioii alone would tolerate, -uhiiiitlcil to with hope and coiilldcme, however, hy men who are
aiiMoUs and timid duriiii;' the roll of thunder. iiiMikiiiy the (licit jiird hy whose llappiii"' wiiiiTs they
suppose it to he produced, or croiichiui;' from tiic Mink of his all pi'iictratiUf;' eye, which they allcyc i-^
the lii^litliiiie's Hash.

The ties of kindred and relatiiniship are of a M'vy complex character anionu: the Ojiliwaysj in more
than one instance a sin'_;u!ar c\ciu|ililication of cro-s r;'lalioii>|iip occurred diirinj; .our voyau'e 011 lake.-.
\\ iiinlpee- and Maniloliah which is perhaps wertliy of I'cinj;' recorded, as it may serve to show the
permanency of auiicut cn:.toin.~ and traditions aiuiuii; lamilic-. now dwclliiii; nearly l.ooo miles
west of the liuntiuc' };riiueds of their Miicestors. Near the iiioulh of the Little Saskatchewan we met
ini Inili.in family in ^mall canoes jonriicyine- towards the mouth of lied Itner. The family coexisted
of a yoiiiii; liiilian, lii^ wife and two little chiliircn. The father was horn on the shores of Lake
Winnipei;. and li.id never travelled east of the lake. After a few words had p,i>sed hetween him and a
half-hrced ()iiliway from l.aki' Superior, ( Wiywaiii. I they >lioiik hands and proclaimed theiiiMdves
relali'd to one another. Kach helonued. as I was iiiforined, to the trihe which hore the name of the
"Hear," and havinir hy some means, which Wiijw am could not or wiinld not explain, ascertained this
fact, tliev spoke to one another as hrolhers. .\ similar relationship was estahli-hed hetween \\ iirvvani
ami another ()iiliway on Moss IJivcr, solely, as he infoinied me, hi'caiise his own and his newly found
friend heloucjed to a trihe whose distinctive name w.i- the " Hear." The ( ree half-hrced:- told me ilial
ill their eomniiuiieation with the ( Ijiliways of Lake Wiunipc!,', .ind. further west, this rcco;;nilieii i,l'
relationship not iinfreipicntly took place hetween individuals who met for the tirst time and who were
horn and lived in districts far apart. In connexion with llii- siii;;'ular kind of relationship and the
heariiiL;' it may possibly have upon the oriirin of the Indian races, j append the folfiwinj: cMracI (Voin
an elhuolofiical paper read at the Montreal Mcclinif of the Ame.iian Assoeialioii for the advaiu emeni
of science, by Lewis II. Morn;aii, l''.si|„ nf lioelicster, N. \ .'

" It has occurred to me, after a careful exainiiialion of the system of ciiiisaimiiiiiity and ileseciit of tin
Iroipiois, that we may yet be able, by means of it, to solve the i|uestioii whether our Indian race:- are
of Asiatic oriLrin. L:iiii.aiai'e chaiiees its yorabularv not only, hut also modifies its irraiiiiiiMtii'al

strnctiire in tlw iirojrress

if a^jes : thus el

ninn;; tlie iiupiiries wliicli pliuolouists have j

[iresseil it to

answer: hnt a system of coiisaiifjiiinity once maluri'd and hroiifiht into workinj;' operation, is, in tin

nature 1
ehit

\ thi

nore unchangeable than l;injrnai;

ri'hitionship, but in the ideas which innlerlie the system its

not III the names i

ninlovevl .is a \ocahulary of

The Indo-Knropean nation- liave

one

t^nnuftiiin JnurtiiU, I H.t8,

I2t

HKI'OU'IS OF THK ASSINNinoiNE AND

~y!>li'iii, i<lrntii'iil in Iin |>riiii'iiiiil I'l'iitiirt'H, »itli an iMilii|iiity nf :!.> ctMitiirii'H, as ii fact ol' arluiil
I'cciird. 'I'liat of llic ln)i|nciiH is mi^iniil, tlrarly ilctliicd, innl llic rrvcrso i>l' the I'oniu'r. Il Ih, at
Irasl, to lie |ii'i'<uin('il that it Iimk iiii aiitii|iiity rocvnl witli tlu- iMrc. 'I'liat of tlir Cliippcua is tlii> samo
as tli(< Iroqiuiis, witli !<li^'lit iiKiililiratiniis ; iIiiih rstaiilisliiii;; tlir liiil iif its cxixli'ticf in two nf tlio
|iiiii<i|)ai (it'ncvir stcicks, lioiilis tliis, tlicii''ar(' traces dI' the sanu- systoin anidiiff tin" A/.trcs, Miiliavi<S|
( ii'i'ks. Diimtaas, Dclawaics, Wiiniclinncii's, anil (itlirr races, all teii(lln;{ to show that the system liag
liecn, anil now is, unlM'isal n|MiM this cuntinent. Shonlil this last fact he eslahlisiieil, the antii|nity (if
the system, as ciie\ai with the Indian race ii|iiin the continent, w 'I also liecome estalilished. rpoil
the hasis of ihesi' two tai t> and as-iomin'r that these races are of Asiatic oriuiii. we may [iredict tlie
e\isteiice of the same -ystem in Asia, at the |irescnt mmncnt, anionjj: the descendants of their eonnnoli
am eslors, if any rem lin.

"A lirief explanation of the principal featnres of the sy^-tein of the Iroipiois is annexed, which will
a-sist in worKimiont every other, parliinlarly if they are foniidi"' npon the same ideas.

" 'I'lie institntions of thi- Iroipiois were fomided upon liie I. unilv relationships; in fact, their celehratvd
leairiie was Imt an elalioration of tlic-e relalinnships into a coin|ile\ system of civil polity. At the haso
of this were llieir laws ot' descent. They were unlike holh the c ivil and the canon laws; lint yet wero
oriLtinal and well ill lined. 'I'he chief diircrences wen two: first, descent anions the Iroipiois followed
the I'emaie line, or passed through tiie mother; while in each of the liirnier systems it follows the ninle,
or pas:-es through ihc> I'.ithrr, In the secniid place the collateral lines, with the Iroipiois, were finally
liroiiLdit into III iiicr/^i'd in the lineal; while, in the other cases, every remove from tiie iiinnnon ancestor
separated the collateral lines from the lineal, until after a few •;eiieratiolls actual relationship ceased
aiming' collaierals.

'•'I'll hrinir mit distinctly this code of descent, il will he necessary to ^ive a lirief explanarnin of the
ili\isioii of the Iroipiois into trihcs, the union of the several trilies into one nation, and of the several
nations into one leaijiie. W itliont a reference to their civil orf,'ani/ati()n, il would he impossihle to
preseiil it in an iinderslandalile form.

'• In eacli of the five nations wlio compo-ed the oriifina! league, there were eiuht trihis, iiamed: Wolt',
Hear, Heaver, aml'l'iirtle; Deer, Snipe. Heron, and Hawk, 'i'he Oiioiida-ra iialion, therefore, was ii
counterpart of the ( 'ayiiLia, each liav iiiir tlie same niimlier of trilic^, and of llic same name; so also,
iiitcrcliaiiiicalily, of the Oneida, the Mohawk, and the Seneca nations. In cllccl. the Wolf trilie was
divided into live part-, and onc-tifth part of il placed in each of the live nations. The remainiiiL' trihcs
were siihieclcd to ilii' -one i!ivi-ioii and ili-trilinlion. Hclvvecn the individual mcmlier- of the Wolf or
other Irilie thus divided, or. in other word-, hclvvecn the -eparatcd parts of each trilie. there c\i.-ted
the tie of loiisanLrninity. The Mohawk of the 'rnrtie Irihe recoL'nized the Seneca of the 'I'lirtie trilie
a- a relative, and hetwecii them e\i>leil the lioiiil of kindred lilooil. In like wianner the Oneida of the
Hawk trilie received the Oiiondaira ol the ('ayii;,M of the same trilie as a relalive, not in an iilcid or
eoiivenlional sense, lint as actually connected with him h\ the lies of coii-an^fiiinity. Herein we
di-cover an element of union lielvveen the live nations, of remarkalile vitality and power. A cross-
rclalion-hip existed hclvvecn the several tiilies of e.icli nation ;ind the Irihe- of coircspoiidiiin name ill
each of the other iialious. which hoinid ihcm |oi;elher ill the leai>iie with indi-sohilile lionils. If either
of the nations had wi-hed to cast oil' the alliance, it would have lirokeii this eiiiht-fold Iiinid of coii-
sani,'ninitv. Had the nations fallen into colli-ion with ea'-li other, it would have liroiiiiht Hawk trilie
ayaiiisl liawk trihe — in a word, hrotlnr au'aiii-l hrollicr. 'I'lie history of the Iroipiois exhihit- the
wi-doni of these or^'aiiie provisions ; for, diiriii'f the loiij; period ihron^di which the leajine snhsisted,
they never fell into .niarchy, nor even approximated to a dis-oliition from intern, d disorders.

".\t no time in the history ol the IroMiiiiis lonlil a man mairv ;i woman of his own trihe, even in
;iiiotlicr nation. .Ml the memhers of ,i trilie were within the prohiliiti'd decrees of con>aii;;iiiiiity : and
fo this day, anion;,' the deMcndants of the Irmpioi.-, this law is rcli;;ioii-ly ohserved. Hiishand and
wife, therefore, were ill every case ol' dill'crcnl trilie-. The children were of the trihe of the mother.
Here, till n, we discover oni'of the central ideas of their laws of descent : to place the father and mother
in dill'crciit trihcs, and to assign the children to the trihe of the mollier. Several im|iortaiit results
followed, of wliiili the most remarkalile was, the perpetual ilisiiilierilance of the male line. ,\s all
titles, as well as property, de.-ceiided in the female line, and were hereditaiy in the trihe, the son
could never succeed to hi- father's title of sachem, nor inherit even liis tomahawk.

".V trilie of the Iroipiois, it tliii- appears, w,is imt, like the ( Irecian and Ifomaii trihcs, a circle or
u'roiip of faniilie-. for Ivwi trilies were nece^•a^ily represented in every family ; neilher, like the .lewisli,
was it constilnled of the lineal de-ieii laiit- of a coinnioii father; on the contrary, it involved the iihsi
of descenl from a comnion mother; imr ha- ii any resenililaiice to the Scottish clan, or to the canton
III the Sivit/er. It ap)il'oaclies. Inivvcvr,', nearer to llie.lewi>li. Denying,' ;;eo^ra)iliical hoimdaries, a
trihe of till' li'oipiiii- was i-ompiiscd nl ,i part ot a multitude of families, as wide spread as the
lerrilorie- ot the race, hiil yet iinilcd toL'cllicr liy a common trilial lioiid. The mother, lier children,
ami the dcMendaiil- of her ilaiiyhler- in ihe female line, would, ill perpelnily, he linked with the
f.iiluncs of her own trihe; while the lather, his hrothers and sister-, and the dcsceiidants in the
female line of his sisters wiinid he iiniled |o aiiolher trihe, and held liy liisallinitics. No circiimstaneeu
could work a traiislalion from one Irihe to .■mother, or even suspend the nationality of the individual.
If a ( ay nua woman 111 the I lawk trihe niairied a Seneca, her children were of the Hawk trihe and
Cayiif'as, and her descendants ill the feni.ilr line, to the latest posterity, contiimed to he Caynjtas and
of the Il.iwk trihe, allhnii^li they re-ided with the Senecas, and liv snccessive intennarriaffe with them
had lo,-t nearly I" cry panicle of ( a\ iiya hlood. Neither could intermarria^'e with one of 'i foreiifii
nation loiifcr the Irmpioi- nationality np:in the wife or children of the marriage, and the same /ov nrsa.
If a Mohawk nianicd a Didawan woinaii, she and her chililreii were not only Delaware still, lint ever
conlliiiicd alien , mile, iialiiiali/cd a-- Mohawks, with the forms and ccrcmoiiies |irescrilieil in ease
of adoptiiin.'

TliedilHenlly orohtaiiiinp ndiahle iiifonnatiun respecting the Indian population has heen aeki.owlodjjed
hy all who have i,dven atteiitioii to tin- snlijei't. I am coiiviiiced that the tinmher of Indians inliahitin^

SASKATCMKWAN KXl'LOUINtJ KXl'KDITION.

V2!i

will

tlir

I'MTIll
• III

llii|i(>rt'H I.iiikI Iiiih Iici'ii CDiiHiilcrnlily nvcrralcil. 'I'lir rNtiiimtcH iiiihlixliril in tlic Appendix to tlio
Ucpiirt froMi lli<> Si'li'ct ( '(iiiunitti'c on tlic IImiIhom Miiy Cunipiniy I'lirniHli lli<< I'ullowin^ rcnnlt.

'I'liirkuiiiiil IniliiniH on lli(> oiiit niilc itl' ilic llncky .MmnitiiiiiH
'I'lic I'lain 'IVili(>H (Illat'klW't, \('.)

- ;t.),lM)(l

- y."i,iHi()

(10,0(10

'I'lic Indian popidaliiin of Knpcrt's [.and in t<»tinnit(>(l at -I'AxVO. Ovor tlii> plain or prairie (rilieH tliii
II. II, Ciiniimny pniless to have nii control, mid tliey are returned as niiiiilieriii^ 'A>,()0(l mmU. It will
appear I'lirllier mi, dial excellent aiitliorilius ipiottvl in the text, do nut aHsi^ii more lliaii half that
niiiiilier to the iiiuhI imineniiH Iriliex of prairie IndianH, who hiiiit on the Saskatchewan anil Missouri,
with their trihnliiries, and who occasionally trade on lioth sides of the international honiidary,

The Plain Crees and Thickwixid Indians are under the control of the Cnnipany, hut I think that
their niiinhers are also nver esliiiialed, and the grounds on which this opinion is ailvaiiced aie as follows.

The liasis of (he census fur the Thickwood Indians and the IMaili (..'rees is the iiuinher freipienlinjf
the esialilislniieiils nf the Hudson's Hay ( 'oinpany in 1X36, and the following enunieralioii at certain
posts ehielly \isiled hy the I'laiii I'lees' is j{iveii: -

l^.^l.

l'"ort I'.llice
(^u'.\i)pelle Lakes
Touc'iuoiid Hills
l''(M't a la ( 'orne

Nil. nl' IlulillMH fVl'i|ll>'nlillK il-

. ,'jOO

- 'JM
. 31111

- Bud

\,'AM Indians,

I poll perusal nf llie furc;.'oiii}; lahle llie reader would infer lliat lvi"p() Indians visiled
liie posts uMiiieil. It happens, liowe\er, (hat many Indians trade with Iwo or even more posts,
allliMiiyh every clVml i- iiiailc In limit them to one particular slatimi. Their names, liowever, appear
iiu ihe liiiiik> al liilfi leiil cslalilishmi'Mls and in tlie enunienilion of llie Indians iiilialiiliii;,' ccrlain
districls. Mime nf lliciii arc ciiiuileil twice and even three limes. I asi cilained hevniid ilnulil lliat lliis
pracllce evislcd In an exiciil which wniild all'erl the census ill a niarknl iie;;ice. rln' cii-lnm nf Jfi^in;;
creilil III liic liiili.'ui- ciiiiiiuMi;i ■< this system, while a natural desire l<> atlarli Mililitiniiid Iniiilers In u
pnsi, nil the pan nf llie liailcr-. iudiices less caiilinn lltaii wniild nllierwise he eNcni-ed. A- llie rcsuit
of very careful iiii|uirie» wlicrciir nppnrliuiilies olfered nf nhlaiuiliLt c\ai I iiifnrmalinu, I am iudiiied
tn think llial llie olimali' nf I'.'.s'u is ahniit niie foiirlh Inn hii;li.

The e>liiM:ilcd iHiiiilicr nf liidians freipienliii^ certain eslahlisluiieiils nf the I luil-ou Hay ( 'nmiiany
in ('•"ill arc ^i\cii in the fnllnwiii;,' lalile.

The pn t> cmiiiicralcd ,11c included wilhiii the area emliiaccii liy the map which accmiipauies this
Itepnri; iinl iiicluihiii,' ill" cast side of Lake \\ innipe^'n >i-, llic hall lins d Sclllciuciils and Itcil liivcr.

i.oriliiv.
I'nrt a la ( 'nrne
( umlicrlaud I |niiM>
Ihe I'as
I'nri I'ellv
Init Kllice
','u'Appelle Lakes
Slinal liiMT
Tnlicliw I Hills

Ltrir Lake

.Maililnliah Hnllse

NimmIi. r

:>nii

'.'.lO

:;iiii

Mill
.'ilMI
'.ViO
l,-.n

:ioii
'.'(III

'.'Mil

fnllnwini'

On llie Nnrlh Itraucli nl llie Saskalchewan, where the I'lairie Indians us~eiulile, the
I'lliimcralinii is ;;i\eii in llie ISIiie llook : -

l.iiniiliy. N". "I' Inili.Mi-i.

Ldniniilon ..-.--.-- 7,'iOo

Carllnii .....--.. .\iinii

L,,it I'i'l .....---- 7.0(111

Knckv Mnuiilaiu House -..--..- (I.OOn

This census is prnhalily nver-ei^limated ; allhoii^ih il may aiiproxiiiiate In ll:e ar|ii;d numlicr of
liiiliaiis vi^iliiif; a particular post, yet there is stroiur rea.-on to suppose that tin' same iudii iiliials are to
a lar;;e exieni eiuuiieialeil twice, if lint thrice.

The Plain nr Prairie Indians liclmiff In the fnllnwinu' Principal Trilie,- : —

lilackfeet, frees,

lUnni'ies, Assinnihoiiies,

I'lill Indians, or (iros Ventres, Sionx,

Piej^aiis, Ojiliways.

The Wood Indians of the iSaskatchowan valley heloiifj to the fjreat family of C'lees ami Ojiliways.
The Sioux and lilackfeet are Dakotahs.

Mr. Harriet, a chief factor of the Hudson Hay Company, who had passed his life anniiir llie lilack-
feet, esliniated the six or seven trilies fjoinj? hy lliat f,'eiieral name as inusti'rin^j; l,(i(io I'l l.70(i unts, at
eijjht per tent, l;i,UUO."

Colonfl I.rrniv, U.A.

Q 3

12f!

UKPOnTS OF THF, ASSINNFnoiNF. AND

Mr. Itownml, line of tlic ii|clrr<t n'j.iil(Mif triiilns cMtitimti'K tin- niiickli'i't trihi'N im I'ollnwN;

lillll Ul't'Ct |I|I1|H 1 ...

l'ic'J.'ill|S ....

ItliiiHin ....

(iroN N't'iiti'i'i, or I'M ludiniiM

( 'irccH . ■ .

( 'otOlll'^t \ \t . ■ 'I' -I

At .'< ix'ivim.-. jpi'i- tciil. lil.liMi,

8lK)
•l(K)

4IHI

■\r,

UM'i li'iitH,

The A— iiiiiiliiiiiic- iii'(Mli\iiliMl iiitd SfiiMiuMiHiil mill I'liiin AH?<iniiilH)iiM"<, nr Stmiyn.

Ml'. I l.iiriit, ill 1 ■• I'.', I'^liiiiiitril llic Sliiiii;{» 1 A>!'ililiil)iiiiH'H al - - Sii Iciitn, — (11(1

Mr. I!iii\jiiil, till' I'liiiri \>^iiiiiil>iiiiii's ill ..... :|(|(l = U, llMi

ilfii ti'Uls =^ ;l.lt'.'(l

'I'lic S|i'iinH\Mi,ii| Ci'iit's mImmiI I'.iIiiimiiIiiii Mi, lliiwaiiil r>liiii,ili'il iit • ll»i tnil>, al 10 [icr triil, l.iiiiO
t'r.'i> iilili,. I'laiiiH ..... . yiM) „ „ ,, ■,',(((1(1

(l,00()

(dliiin'l l.i'liciy >l.ili'~ llial llii' aL'Un'^raii' cil' llii' liilics iiilialiitiiiK llii' l'laiii> cm lliiti-li rrrritury
»a> ("-liiiialril ill l>> 1:1 .il imt iimi'i' tliaii '.'i!. IIHI. Siiirc llial |ii'riiiil \\\r\ liaM' iliiiiiiii:-liiMl in iiiiiiilii'i's
ami Millie el' llie IlLieklei't liailiU -l.ilieiieil |lieMi-el\e« |ienniilielillv iMi llli' Ml^-cl||ri. III Mleeeeilill);
|iaee> rei ('III e-liiii.iles la'llie l!la<M'eel Irihe- ami llie liniit- nl' the liiiiiliii::' ^iiiaiiiil:' ari' ^iseii.

'I'lie .»>iiMix ami llie IHailJeel lu'iiif,' llie inn. I «ailiKe liilie> nl' llie mirlli-«i'-t, ami relainiii^' llieii'
aiieiellt lil'liilii^ III the I'lijle-^l esleiil, the lijllnuiiiu lirii'l' miliee,-> nl' thcM' I'ni'iiiiilalile native i'aee> are
iiili'niliieeil. 'llie Plain ,'iml W'nnil ('ree> ami the Ojiliways are aliiin>l allnLieihei' .iineiiahle in tlie
iiilliii'iii'e nl' till' iliiiUiiii Hay ('i'iii|i:iiiy, anil are in I'ael the liniiter." ii|miii \\liiniillie\ rely I'nr their
-njiply i\( furs ami |irn\i-iniis.

'I'm Sidi s nil P\Kirr.Mi IsUI\\>.

'The iiilieii nf llie Si..n\ liiiliaii-, m l)alMltall^t. are iniii|in>e(l iit' fe\eii |irim'i|>al l)ainl>. Their
afii;ie;;ate niiliilier |prnlialil) ilne> linl eNricil 'J.").! ml I, Tiieir liiiiilili^c f/rniiml- e\leiiil I'miii llie
.^li^^i.'•^i|||>i l!i\er nil tile ea>l In tin' I'llaek llill-< in Nelira.'-ka mi llie ue^l, ami Irnni the iiiniilh nl'
the liiy Simix l;i\er nil llie -niilh In l)i'vir> Lake 111 llie linilli. The ,irea a^-eriheil In tlii- natinii h\
the aiitlmr- nl' the iiiaji atlaeheil to the l!e|inrl nl' ihe Sjiei iai ( 'nininillee nf llie I Inline nl' ( 'niiniinli'~ nil
the llml-nir> l!ay ( 'niii|i,iiii| i'nin|a'eheiiil> a lar^^er e.Meiil nl' lerrilnry than that imlnileil within tlie>e
lilllit^. Aithnnj;li the >inii\ have nn ileahiijrs with ihe hill' hreeil- nl' lieil ItiM'r, nr with llie JiuiUnii
Day ('nlii|auy, yet they niteii ern"^ ihe 'IHtli |>arallel in luirMiil nl' the hiill'ain, ami iiinre rrei|iieiill\ in
search nf .1 seal|i riniii iheir hereililary eiieinier-, the (liihHa\!« ami ( 'ree:-. A> the iiin.^t dreailed
iii\ailer> nl'the |iraiiie-i nnitli nl'iiie Imumlarv line, lhi> iiiiMerliil iiatinn ile,«er\e> a f|ieeial iiniiee.

'I'll! naiiie Daknlah i-ie|iilie> the •• AHieil,"an(l they >|ii'ak nt lliein-eKes ,i., |he "Oeell >akn«ili,' nr
"Seven ('niimil j-'ire-," I he I'nllnw in;; eliiniieralinii nl' the |irinei|ial liaiiil- wliieli i'iini|iu.e the iialimi,
liy the ineinher> III' the Ainerir.'in |)akntah Mi'-^inii, will he Iniincl at leiiLrih in ihe ( iraiinnar .mil Dii-
linliary |iri'{iare.l with -.n mm h e.ire, lalmiir, .iml zeal iimier the eilitnri.il inanap'ineiil nl'llie lle\. S. It.
Hi^;.'-. A.M.. .Mi«-iiiiiar\ nflhe Aineriraii l!"aril nl' ( 'iiiiiiiii»iniier> Inr i'nreiH^n Mi■•^ill|l^.

I. The Milew.ikaiilniiwails \'iHiii/r n/' tin Sjtirit l.til.i. The name i^- iIitIm'iI I'roiii Milewakail (.Spirit
nr .S.i.ieil l.,ike), Mille l,ie> ( M iiiiie.-nia ), ill the eiiiiiilry iiuw elaiiiii'il hy till? ()ill'wa\>. Tlii- hami
liliinlier- aliniit 'J.iKln.

■-'. The U'ali|iekilte-. I.,;if Shmit, rx, :,W).

;i. 'llie W .iliiietiinwaii-, \'illiii/i- in llir /.iiins, 1,'JllO.

1. Tile Si>itniiwaii>, \'illii<ii I'f III: .\/iiis/i, 'J.'iiiii. Their liiintiiiL' irrniiml i~ .ilmiil the Cnteau ile>
I'rairie^. ,iml they ~iilivi.| mi the ''iilValn.

.1. The Ihanklnnwaniia, Ml /•,'/»/ I'i/lmii llnnil. ■\,i'i>^K Iheir eniinlry i.-- nn Ihe iinrtli-ea>l nf the
.Mi.-Miiir'., a^ far ar |)e\il'- Lake. TlieM' ;ire the ;,fre.it eiieiiiies nf the lieil liiver half hreeil.-.

(i. 'Ihe Ihaiiktniiwaii-, tin ['il/ni/r nf tin /wi./ '.',l(l(l. Their eniinlry i> we>t nf llie Mi>:*niiri. 'I'hey
are frei|ni'iitly teiiiieil ^'am•llllls.

7. Ihe 'l'ilniiwaii>, Ihr \'illii,i( nf llii' /'niirii, l'.'../(Hl, Their hiinlin;,' LTmiml i> "I'^l nf the Missmiii.
'I'hey are ili\i(li'il iiitn -e\en li.inil- : llie Si(aii;;ii. /Innil-tliii/hs : the ll.i/i|Mii, /iiiir/iil/i ; the .silia.-a|ia,
Uliitl-I'iil : ihe Miiiikaiive wnzii|ii, 'J'lin.w nlio iilniil hi/ llif ii,ilir : the ( )iiliemiii|ia, l'ifii-/jiiHiiii/,i ; ami the
(.);,'lal.i ami lliiiik|i.'i|>a.

'I'lii' emijiirnr- lielie\e that their ilreaiiis are revi'Iatimis frniii Spirit W'nrlil. ami they aver llial iheir
|irnplietie \i>imis are ihe nieiifal revival of iiiiiirreii(e> ill a fnrmi'r >tale of existence, ^'ear.- with llieiii
ale eiiiimcraleil liy wiiilcr^: a dislame i.- estiin.ited hy the iiiiiiiher nf nif^hts a man will sleep nil the
way. I he < (jiliways have the same iiielhnd nf expressing;- time and distance. They divide the year into

* .Si'f iiti iirlLIc n|ii'ii tlic N.-ilive liiiiiitii Puiiululinii nf llrilUli .\nifruM, liy CwliiiU'l l.i'friiy, K.A. Cnintitinti Journal, Viil. I. ()l(l
Stri'.">.

t l^fc iiitriiductiuii 111 ii IJr.iiiiiiuir uml liii-tiiiiiiiry ul' thu Dtikuiuli iHiigii.i^i', |iubli»lieil by the .Stiiiilisuiiliiii lii'«tituiiun.

SASKATCIIKWAN KXIM-(»U1N(1 lArKDI'l'lON.

inoiins l)Mt wt'ckH nil' iiiikiiMUii tn llirm. 'I'lh l)iil>ii|iili« III llir Millry nl' lln' Miiiiir"iitii lm\i' tlii>
fiilliiuliiK iiiiiiitlin ill till' M'lir:

I. SVi ti'lii, Jiiiiiiiiry ; tlii' liiinl iiiniiii.

'J. Wiiara-ui, I'l'liriiiiry : tlic rarnini iiinini.

;t. l-lii«iriiyii/.iii-«i, Manlii llic Niirr (cyi') iiiniHi.

I. MiiKiioliiiila »i, April ; tin' riiniiii in wliii li tlir ){i'i'*(> lay I'uif"'

">. \Vn/ii|ii-wi, May; tin* |ilaiitlii^ iiiniin.

•I. Ua/ii'<ti'rasa-wii .liiiir; llii- iiiniin wlirii tlir Htraulicrricx aii' rcil,

7. ('aii|mHa|ia-«i, July; tlir iniiini when the cliiiko I'licrrlt'H jiri' ii|ii'.

K, \Va»iitoii-wi, Aiiffiist ; tlii> liancst iiintiii.

I(. I'»iiiliiialu'tii-«i, Si'|iti'iiilii'r; llir iiiiinii wlirii ri<(' i-t laiil ii|i In iliy.

III. \Vi-Ha/ii|ii. Orliilirr ; tlir ilryilif,' ili r iiii

I I. Takiyiilia-ui, Nnsrliiliri' : llic ilt'i'i' riitliiii; iiiiion.

I'J, 'riilii'r,'i|iHiiii-\\ I, Dirriiilicr; lilt' miihiii \vI<< ii till' di'i'i' >lir(l tlii'ir Iiiiiiih.

Till' Dakiitnlw liii\i> a I'liiiiiiiiiii and .. sar'i'ii jnii^'iiajfi'. 'I'lii' iiiiiiiinir, llii' war |iro|ilii'l, ami lhi>
ilri'aiiii'r i'iii|>liiy a laii;;ii.i;;i' in uliirli nmhiIn arr liiirri>»i'il I'riiin ntlicr Iniliaii tiinu:ii("< ami ilialnts : lliry
iiiaki' iniirli iwi' 'i|' ili'siri|ili\i' I'Xiiri'i^iiiii^, anil ii>^r HunU apart Irniii tlir iiriliiiary j-i^jnilirMlinn. 'I'lii'
( •jill^vay^ alilirt'V iaii' llirir M'lili'nn"* anil rinplny many rlliptiial Inrni-- nl' rxpri'^sinn, »ii iniiili ho lliat

I lall'-lin'rils, ipiiti' I'liiniliar \\\t\[ tlir rnlliupiial laii/iiiaKi'' luil t iiipri'lirnil a iiicilirini' man \tlii'ii '\\\

llir I'lill lliiH III' i'mIIi'iI iiial>ir>.

'till' Ainrriran Ml'->iiiiiarii' . in tlirir ailiniralily uritti'ii Daknlali hinuiiau'i', niiplny li\i' miwi'U anil
Iwi'lity-jiiiir riiiHiinanls, ainmiy wliirli arr two I'r, t«o },''?•, two li'«, Umi k's, two n'?', hvii i>V, twn t'«, ami
tvMi /'», 'Ilii' I'i'prlilioii III' till' '•ami' Irllrr I" iim'iI In ili'iinti' a uiiHiiral, an a^pirali', an I'Mlpliatir, iii' a
iia-al siiiniil. 'I'lnm r i-' Imlli an a>pirali' ami an rinplialir Irttrr: l; liki' llir rinuli-li i: anil L'ntliiial;
li liki' till' l'ji^'lir<li li ami ^niltnral : k as in I'ai^'lisli ami I'liiplialii' : n a> in l!ii^'li-li ami iia>al ; p a- '«
Kii).'li>li anil I'liipliatii'; s nn in KiiKlisli and ai«pirati' ; t a?< in Kiiffli-li ami rnipliatir: / as in Kii^'' ami
asjiiralr.

All -yll,ilili"< ari' riiiinriali'd plainl\ ami fully, lint airrnliialiuii nl'li'u ili'li'rniiiii'> tlii' inranin^ ut' a
>Miril. 'riii'ri' ari' llirri' iininlirr^ siiiLiiilai, ilnal, ami plural ; llir iliial imiinlinu the prrsun -^prakiii;,'
ami till' pi'i'^nn ^pl>kl'll tn. 'I'lir prnprr nainrs ni' llii' I )akiitali<« arc worils ^iiiipli' ami riinipiiiinilril,
«liii'li Mil' ill innmiiin n-i' in llir laiiL'iiayr. Tin' mhi nl' a rliii'l'. vslii'ii lir -mriTils lii« latlirr, n»ii.illy
laki'f till' iiami' 111' liin I'allirr nr >;railiiratlii'r. As «llli llir ()|ili«a\ s ami Swampy-, ijirir pri'prr iiamrs
(■iiiisi-.| nl' a siiiKJi' iiniin nr a nniiii ami ailji'i'tivi'. 'I'ln' ()iiliway Lnr. Ihum'wt. ili-liiirl laniilv nr ilau
nami's uliirli tliry rinplny ulirn rprakin^'- of llirir amr-^tnrs; a- I an; ..I llii' I'aniily nl' tlir firar, tlii'
l''.a<.'li', till' 'riinmlrr-rlniiil, \'r. Tin' Itaknlali liavw im ."iirnainr- ; llir iliililri'ii nf a family have
parlii'iilar iiaim-', uliirli Iii'Iimim; tn ijii'm in tin' oriirr nf tlirir liirtli np tn tin' tiflli rliilil. In mnnliin;
tlirv ii'^i' llii'ir fm<:rr>, lii'mliiii; tlirin as lliry I'linnii'iati' until tliry ri'arli Inn. Tli' y llini ln-ml ilnwn a
litlli' liiiL'i'r III ri'cnril mii' ti'ii. anil lM>i,'in a/raiii ; wlii'ii llin -rrnml tmi i- mnnlril lln'v piil ilnun a -I'lniiil
lin^i'i'. anil so nii,

I )akntali M'rlis liaM' niilv htn I'nrins nf ti'ii-i', tin' imii'liniti' ami llm fntnri'; tin' nllinr li'ii-i's ai'i>
t'\prrsvi'il |i\ till' lii'lp nf aiUrrlis ami tlir rniiti'xt. Wnrils ill a st'iitclirr arr llin> plarnl : lii'»t the
nnmi, M'lnm) tlir ailji'itiM', tliinl llir vrrli, tlin> :

Atriinyanpi inalipiya rkia nanki' rhin
I atlirr-ur-lia\r liraM'ii in tlnm-arl llir ;

Nii'lia/r kin wakainlapi ktr;
Tliy-liamr tlir linly-rt'SUrilril ~liall;

Nilnkirllnll/i' kill U ktr .

Tli\-kiii).'iliini till' rnmr -lialUt

Till Hi. ■.. kii ri'.

Mr. .Iamr> Duty, wlin rr^lilril I'nr many M ar^ in r;.' ■ nintry nf ilir lilaikfrrt. ami «lii) is acipiaiiilril
with a lar;,'r pnrtinii nf lliis n.itinn. i;a\i' tlir fnllin' n: I'niiml.'uirs nf llirir rniniti'. ami rslimatr nl' llir
mnnlirr-- nf tlir iirnplr tn (iiiM'riinr .Strvrns in ! '1.1 Tlir naiiilry ill wliiili ll y rrsiilr .iml Imiil is
linuiiilril as I'nllnH-: " liy a linr lirfiiniiiiij; nn tli^ nrrtli. w liriv llic .Mlili paraliil rrnssrs tlir lln. kv
'• Mnmilain-, tlirmr ra>l nil -aiil paiallrl tn llir liHltli mrriilian. tlirlirr -nutli tn t'lr lirail waters nl' tlir
" Milk Itivrr. ilnwii ^aiil liivrr In till' Mi-siiini, iiptlir Mi-.-nnri In llir ini.iitli nf tlir .liiililli. tlirmr up
" tlir .luililli In it- -niirrr in tlir itniky Mniiut.iiii-, ami linrtll alnli;; llirir fa-r In tlir pkirr nf lirjfiniiiliL:. '
Till' iimutry lirtwrrn tlir Mi-miri .■iinl tlir lirail watrrs nf tlir ^'rllnw^tllllr is iinnrriipiril. It is llir
i.'ri'at rnail nf llir lllarkfrrl »,ir partirs In .iiul I'rnin llu' Crnws. I'l.illirail-, anil Snakr-. Il iiiav also
III' rriisiilrrril a- a Iran-iriit liuiniiif,' ;',rnuinl if tlir I'lallir.iil-, a-- tliry liiiiit InilValn llirrr fur .1 slinrt
time ill till' fall.

Till' lllarkfrrl liiilinii i> ilixiilril iiiln fnur l^l^lli.^ 1 Irllir-;, nr liaiiiN. wlin-r iianirs, niiinlirr-, ami
Inialitii's 5; .nr a-^ fnllnws: ■

Tlir lllarkfi'i't - . . '_',")ii Indf^rs ; 1. "■"'(• pnpulatinii : i^i.) warriors.

'I'lir lilnnils;! - - - ;!.';il do. '.M.m i!n. K7.) ilo.

Thr IMrixan- - - - S.ill dn. 'J. I.'IO iln. !l7.'i iln.

Till' (irns N'riilrrs - - - ;li;il do. 'J.'i'J" il.>. '.Kai dn.

Tnlai

l,:!lii

'.M7(t

* Si'C flfniimiar mitt tlii'liiirmry lu'foi.' ri-l'iTri-.I to.

I S.-i' a (Jr.iin'il.ir .mil I)t ■It.iiiiry r! ilii- D.ikol.i'i InntMl-'i,:''. I'lllili lii'^l liv 111" iMiiilli-iniiuin Iii-lili'tltin.

I l'A^lllllllli..ll^ .mil Siimys I'lir 11 It ulriM.I ruiili' I'lniii Iln. M ,Mssi|i)ii t.i iln- I'.iiili.', |i.l;:i' 11=.

•J Ttu' iMiitiliv iu-nl|iiril liy tlii'sf nit IS is I viili'iilly iimri' cMi-lisivi' titan •.li|i|uisi'ij liy .Mr. Duly; llu-ir
liiiinil I'lr III vonil iIk- limit', pivrn in Iln- loM.

II I'lillnl bvllif hall'-liivwli," lll.i.ulii's."

(j 1

It I'll..-.'. M,

hi\i

12S

UKl'OUT.S OK TIIK ASSINNIBOINK AND

Tlu- liliMids iiiid lilackli'd (ii(ii|iy llu' iniiiUrv lii'twciMi Milk ami M.iriiis liivcrs in tlu' .JOtli iiarallcl
iirialiluili'.

Till' l'i(';;aiis (iccupy llii- ((iiiiilry licmi'i'ii tlu- Milk ami Marias Ui\iTS, and ht'twi'i'ii llic 'IVloii and
tlic Missdini.

Till' (iiiis Ni'iitics iircnpy llii' i'lmiiliy linrdcriii;^ ii|)()n Milk liivt'f tVom its niniilli l<< tlic ti'iritury of
till' I'ii'jjans. 'I'lic lilomls, l'ir;,'aiis, ami Hlarkli'rt speak tlir sanic laiiff iiajrc ; llu' (Jios N'cntics, the
.\ia|ialiiu' laiiiiiiaf,'!': llicy wrir adoplcd hy tin- lilacklcrt alimit thirty yrars siiirt', lia\inf^ si-ci'di'd I'min
tlii'ii own nation. On tin- npprr Mis-nnri. nrar tin' f,'r('at liciid. tin- (iins Ni'iitirs lia\i' a laijjr villajji-
III' nind licnisi'-. Smni' ul' tlir Iniljics an- i apalili" nf siipportini; Km pi-rsuns. Oiir part is apprnpriati'd
to tlirir liiirsi's. ilojf^, lattlc, and iliiiki'iis, amiilu'r tn llirir sU'cpiiifr apartmi'iits. Tlii' Iddf^i's arc linilt
entirely liy wmiu'ii. 'I'lir (irns N'nitri's Inrnuily linnlrd on llic Assinniliniin'. Mr, ,1. M. Slaiilry, tlu'
artist 111' (i(i\criicir Sti'vciis' cNploratinii. stairs lliat tin' Itlarkt'crt priiprr arc diviilcd intn tlircc ili.-timi
lianils: tlic ISIim.iI hand, KMl Iml^ics: the I'iciran Inmk !:!() Indies : and the Mlackl'ccI lianil, ."iHii Indocs,
avcraf^inj;- In Id a loditc and aimunilinfr in all In l:!,:iii(l sniils. 'I'lic I'ic^'aiis and lilmids liniit, trade,
and winter en Aiuerieau soil, while tin' IJIaekrcet e\leml their liniils as far mirth as the Sa-katehewan,
and trade as (rccpiently with the ihilisli as with the Anieriean I'nsts.*

I'lic fiilliiwinj;' ecnsiis nl' t)ie Indian trihes nl' the I'liiled Slates, inliahiliii;; the states and lerritnries
a'''iiininji- llie lllth paiallel, i-: alislraelcd rniiii the >tiitisties nl' the trihes as repnrted tn the Ihneail nl'
Indian Ail'aiis.t

N;im.- i.l'inl.r. Niinil. rs

A>.-innilininc - - S.llOli l''.xlciiiliiiL;' truiii the Mi>smiri intn liiip.'ri's Land.

lilackl'cci - - . >\.:,:\0 Nchraska.

jtltinds ... 1,(11'.' rpper Missouri.

Crces - - . 81111 rpper Missouri.

.SioHx (Ilianktninvanna) - l.nOii 1 ),ikotali territory,

(iros \'entres - - 'J.."'(tO lietwi'cn the ,Mi>snnii and the Saskali licw.in.

CM \I''IT,I! \i\'.

Mill. IS 01 1111 V \t I M (ir iiii 111 M'fi 1,1.1, AMI <i\' rni: iiisiii.i 1 ms m :.ii>ii; in-
nil IIIUII l>V llll --nl III IllMMII III' llll: s \sK.\ I I 11 1 \t \\.

Di'pressinii 111' the Cniinlry in tlic I^ ;;iiin ul' llie Miiiisc WmiiU — Ki-njion nl' llii' (iir.\|ipellc \'alliv — SireaiiK
(liter the (^lAjipi lie "Valley at iij;lil Aiiijli s— lireailtli nl' the V.illey lliiiiii(;li.iiil -Hiil^'e-. wilii 'liniilihrs —
()rif;i^i n'— !)i |illi nl llic l'i~liiii;_' l.dus — Aiieii 111 I.aI.e — I'.iii-inii nl' Mam S:i-k;ili hew an -l'eeuli.irit\ in
the I.akisiif the (Jii'Appi lie- 11.il!> I'al I'reik— l'n<-il)le Origin nl' (Jii'A|i|ii lli- Valley- I'nnuer Ihil nl
a lliver, lii lore llie list .Siiliiiierf;i nee nl a ('niiliiient — Aiieieiit llivi r \ alleys — Dr. Ililelienek's Kiiiiiiieralinii
nl' — lllii.traliiiiis — 'I'ne Si. I.a«reiiii — llie Ollaway -linilili r.-. in the Diill nl' llie S.ivkali liewaii - llniil-
ilirs ill till- nine Clay nl' 'rnrnnln — I'ureeil Arr,iii;;eiiiiiit nl'- Mnde in wliiili Siirlai'e- in the \'.\ur (lav were

expo>cil — I'nsit I' the nine (lay — l.ciHir anil l'p|ur llliir C'liiy -ni-jinnitinii nl' llie llniilili is anil 1 ra;.;-

iiielits nl' Sliair IIIii>li .iluiijs nl - Dr It in Canaila- Seel inn nf Drill — Diseiis-ini nl tin- Moile in wliieli llie
Itnnlilers anil Slial.' Mei|iiireil a Iniciil .'Vrraii^'iliiciit — 'riiromi ilo« II a .Siihuip'i mis Itniik — Olijrel niis tn —
Snrlih^' nl' .M.ilt ri.ils — .\{;iiiey nl' lee.

'J'lii: OiiK.iN' or nil (jiWii'i 1,1.1, V.M.i i.v.

There are many I'ealiirc:- in the (JnWppclle N'alley which rnriiisli materials I'nr ili>eii-sliin. Smnc of
tlie-e have h.iii iintiecd ill the jireeediiiif chapters, tliere a c others, Iiovm'mt, which de-crve eniiinc-
r.itinii hel'nie M'liturini; to expri',-- an opinion rcspcetiii!,'- the erosion nl ihi-; liinu' and deep CMavalinii.

Our Miyauc down the Soinh Uraiii h has slinuii that in the rei:iiiil ahniil the Moo-c \\iind- the whole
eniiiilry is iiiiicli huM'r than either ina-lli or south ol' tli.it expansion ol the troiioli in which the .Snnih
Hramli llcm>. || .appear-^ In have heeii the >cal of a former ililatalinii of the ri\er, il'iint nf ,111 cxtcn>iM

iircailiii;,'- lake, which ixistcd at tlic time when the 1 lii'.Vi

\'allcv lic'jan to he ci

•d hv its

iiNcrllouiiiu »alei-. 'llie prolniinaiinii nf the Hvchrow Hill in the form nf ,1 low ili\idiii'4' iid''c. as far

m h, tor a ■

li.-ta

as l.iimpy Hill, at the lia-c of wl

(lirection, leads to the iiil'creiicc that the lidif

re-cmhiance In licaihcs or terraces w.is sceii near the Snntli Ur.ini

tJiiicc of I'i^jlit or ten miles on the c.ist sidi

nf '.'((0 miles, tile South Hramli tlows in a mirt
1st line III a former lake, alllioim

the CO.

hcrly

Yet tl

icse nii^'ht orcnr at
d mil lie \isililc from the hi<di hanks of the river.

It lines lint appear pruh.ihlc that a little sl.eamlet like the '• Itiwr that Tn

the S.imK H

111.-,

or the dr.iin.iijc ol

-till 111 pn.i

of fnrinali'iii, nr nf the llvclii

Hill

liaril locI

the hci<:lit of land, and cxc.ivated a vallcv half a mile hro.'id, and cM'ii now llu feet ilc

noiwiiii-iamliii!; the -,inil-ilril'l ■. '■. im h Ii.im' ccrtainiv ilimiiii>hcil its depth
In I

raii<>;c, emiiit iia\e Hnrii a\(av a

•I'-

ll' lioinc 111 nil

lid, that the (^11. \ppelle it-elf, issiiiiin; frnin the liyelirnw Hill

las .il-ii

V alley .It ri;ilil aimlcs In iis conrM', and a few linm

I red

hci;

>iillv, mil '.I

'(I h el wide. Th,

Ki^

at T

ire {oilllli;; it, llnws llirnn;j

feet. It

' enter- the i^rcat
a narrow

III lis

an, I ail loe lllllc :lrcaiii-^ cnniiii;; frnai tlic .SamK

• i:v|.|,.ril

1 I1//1' Ilil.irt, ( uailin

ill Siir\c>v, lii^'c I 1 '

ill I'l

. 1-. ul' 111. Iiiili,iii Irl

..I' llu fiiiu.l ,Sl:lksliv II. It. Sii

.a, i,.i.i).

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOllINCJ KXl'lUMTION.

1-29

Hills enter nt right luiglns ami flow down the bank ol'tlii" great valley into the ponds wirK'h oein|iv it iit
the Hunniiit level. There is no evidence of any eroding agency besides these sireandets now existing,
and no range of nionntain or high table-land IVoni whiiii streams draining into tlie valley might be
supplied. It pursues a nearly straiglit conise to the Sontii Branch of tlu! Saskatciiewan, anil maintains
its breadth thnmghont. Were it not for the invasion of sand chnies, its tuitline wmdd be exactly
preserved from the Lake of the Sand Hills to the Soutli liranch.

'I'he plan of the 'I'rack Snrvey of the (|)n'Appelle Valley, from .Sand Hill Lake westward, showing
its juncticni with the Saskatchewan, at the close of this rejiorl, exhibits in detail its iiost important
features. The littU' stri-amlet from the i^yebrow Hill ridge is llic real source of the (^i, ppelle. The
iHUids at the height of land are the drainiige of the sand hills and dunes which stretch tiir and wide
HI a norlh-easlerly and south-westerly directinu.

'I'hcre are three ranges of sand hills : one is shown a few mile ; west of Sand Hill Lake : tlii" other,
and most proniiiu'Ut, at the Dividing ridge ; and the third on the western slope, invading that part of
the great valley through which the " lliver that Tiuns" flows.

'l"he ridges with boulders mi tlu-ir irvstcni f.r/miiitirs, occurring on the !)anks of the valley, on each
side of llie height of land, as descrilied on pages (i.) .-nid (ill are curious illushations of a I'orce proceeding
fniiii till' irrsf. That forci" must have been water in motion, and although the forms of llir ridges on
the west side of the watershed in the valley are not so well deliued as those on the eal, yet they retain
the distingnishiug llgiu-e which is given to ridges shaped under thi' action of nnnrnig water, while the
disposition of the bouhh'rs on the west Hanks jippeais to show that the direction of the currenl which
bore the ice conveying them was from the west, '["lie impres; inn piddnced at the lime when these
ridges were examined was strongly in favour of the supposition that many or all of them were lin'med
at one and the same period, and by a current bearing ice. such ;',s lliat of a gri'at river like the
.■^t. Lawrence or the Main Saskatchewan tlowiiig ea-terly.

Il will lie oliser\ed, from an ins|>iction of the talile of the de|illi of ihe lakes in llic ','n'Apiiel'e valley,
page fili, llial the deepest tishing lake, as far as iMU' soundings show, is ibe lirsl and most easterly of the
liUM'; llie sui.iller depth of the other lishiiig lakes may be explained by thi' oecnrrence of streams
entering the valley from the prairies, and bringing down with them during spring freshets solid matter
nu'chanically sns]iended, wliich would tend to diminish their depths in proportion to their proximitv to
the source of supjily.

'I'he cxisteiu'c ol' .-in aiu'icnt lake, of great extent, lying west of the prolongation of the I'.yebrovv Hill
r.-ingc to the Lnnniy Hill of the \\'<ioil-, is >liiiwn liy the long lii'ri'oiu.il lines of lioidders wliicb .appear
in the clay <lill's of the river below the Moose Woods. Above these parallel lines ol houldi is line
stratified uuid is seen in layers, together with stratified sand and gravel. 'l"he-e hori/ontal tiers of
boulders are described in Chiipter \ .. ['.ige 7;!.

('onditions similar to those wliii-li wo\ili| be ri'.|uirc(l to [..(.iliue this .irrinigeuieut exist at llii-
pieseiU (lav in Lakes Manitoliah and St. Martin. Ihe lionlders stranded on the extensive shoals in
those shallow bodies of water, as described in (hapter 1\.. are probalily modern ilhislrations of the
mode in which tins distribution in long horizontal lines w.is elli'cicd.

1 conceive that the South MriUich. during the I'xistenee of this supposed lake, llovved iulo it, and that
its waters, or part of them, were disch.'.rged by tliev.dley of the <,lu'.\ppelle. and during thai period the
ridges were moulded, and the boulders distribnied on their wcsttMii exiremilies. 'I'he deep lisliing lakes,
and the other lakes which iniw oc( npy a consideralile portion ol ihe vallcv, ari' the remains of the
excavation. .At Mi.il period I'embiua Monntain, the lilne Hills of the .Sonris, and the Hanks of the
IJiding Mountain probably l'orme<l the limit ol Lake Winnipeg. 'I'liese boundaries are more fully
desirilied in the chapter on the surlluc geolony of lh(> couiilry explored. During the diainage of this
region, ami after tin- ancieni lake, whose centre would be lu-ar the Moose NVoods, had excavated a
sulli( leiu outlet for its waters down tbepresiiU valley of Ihe .M.iin Saskatchewan, the l,in'Appelle valley

would no longer contribute to its dr

aters. \ part of its valley would slowly nude

ml receive oidv the drainage of the conntrv wliich it now

at the Height of Land, or by washings I
id sonth. The change in the

le process of tilling up, either by drifting dimer

M till

I'om the prairie at tl

mtli of streams cominy; from the north
till

Sonlli liranch niav have been the result of a dislocation

Long Lake all'ords another instance of an aiuieut

rivi-r vallev. .i

tha' future observations will establish its con

to. The Hack-fat Lakes and Creek, ii

nexioii Willi the s.nne siipp

ulaling with I'eiiib

stream debonching into Lake Winnipeg when il washed remliiiia Mountain.

ml il does not appear improbable

leient lake hefon' alluded

probaidy llu' valley of a

jsed

IV er. were

The remarkable depth of the fishing lakes, and tlio>e

furl her to 1 1

eimiu'xion with otiier well-known phenoniena, may

nest anotuer explanalion o

•ast, coiisiden
f their luayiii

has been stated in the narrative, that north of the Moose Woods there an' to be seen large blocks
of limestone, contuining many thousand cubic feet: tlii'sc repose on the surface of the prairie, and
doubtless they now occupy the position they assumed when brought thither by icebergs during the
last period when that ^)ortlon of the continent was under the waters of the ocean. The Iniai- unfo;
siliferous l)onlder, 7f< feet in eireuinfereiice, which lies in the v.illey of Ihe l.>u'.\p]

untos-

was probably

lowly sunk to it.s present position bv the wearing away of its foundation as the v.illey was in process

of birinalion, or it may have n

lied f

the prairie bank as it became

dermi

IS not

possible, however, tiiat it now occupies the spot where it was originally dropped from the ice It
which bore it from the north. This would invohe the assiniiptioii thai the l,le.'Ap|ielle valley dales the
epoch of its erosion anterior to the last suhniergeiue ipf the continent, alVordiiig an illuslratioii of a river
valley before the eiiocli of lliu houlder drift. The physical aspei I of the country is by no iiicans
opposed to this view, although there are other reasons which may he urged in opposition to it.

The occurrence of ancient river valleys on this coiiliiieul has already allr.ieled altention. In his
IlliislratioiiH of Surfaei" Cieology, Dr. Hitchcock says: "Some of the erosions thai have lieen described
*■ ill this paper are clearly the beds of antediluvial rivers; thai is of rivers existing upon ibis continent
" before its last submergence beneath the ocean ; wbiili beds were deserted when the sni rounding surface

emerged fniii the water, although essentially the same rivers as existed pivv imi: Iv, imist have been

" tliu robult of d

aiiiuge.

ISO

REPORTS 0¥ THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

" The grrounds on whicli I r(>for the cases inentioned lielow, and describod in detail in this paper, to
the ]»U'!-t of former continents, are the following : —

" 1. The occurrence of pot-liolcs in the walls of jforges, whicli are either dry or tlie bed of a hrook

too small to have prixhiced tliom.
" 'J. The outlet of such ,irorH:cs in one direction into valleys now containing streams large enough
to have fonncd tiie gorges ; and, in the ntlier direction, into valleys leading at a gentle descent
to some rivers.
" 'I'hese two facts make it certain tliat the gin'ges were once the beds of rivers.

" 3. An accinnuliitiim of water-worn, and perhaps sorted materials, viz., gravel and sand to a fon-
sideraliie (k'pth. This accunnilation appears to me to have been made during the last sub-
mergence of the laud, aud to be file cause that i)revcnted tlie aucieul rivers from occupying
their okl (li.nuu'is upon liie drainage of tlio coinitry, and compelled them, at least lor a
con-ulcrablc ilistance, to find a new cliauuel. 1 consider the following as examples of the
phcnoniciKiii. most of tiieiu very ilecidcd, that is, of these antediliivial river beds."

Here follows an cniimeraiion often ancient river beds in Canada (Niagara), New Kngland, and the
State of New York.

It is, however, in the bed of the St. l.awrcuceand the Ottawa that we find the most striking illustia-
tion of ancient river \,ilicys, and the most comincing (iroof that the form of the continent anterior to
its last snlmicrgciK I' was -iiiiilar In its present mitliue. Tlie rivers of a foniii'r continent had excavated
channels llirougli niik liiiMiiilioii> extending from the Tertiary to the lower Silurian. During the
])eriod of siilnncrgciicc the river valleys u ere partially tilled up by drift, auil when the coiifiueiif rose
again, or the sea lowered its level, the new ri\crs, draining regions diircriiig but slightly t'rom lln- old
pln>ical outline of the runner coiuiueut, MUiglil out their ancient channels, and if not tilled with (irift.

occupied ihein at once, or. if olistructed b;
their old courses to the sea.

drift, recxiMvatcd part of their former channels, aud pursued

the St. Lawrence, taken from Sir Charles I.yell'a
ly Caplaiii liiylleld I'roui strnl.i of (

Siibioinc'l is an illustration from the valley of
" Manii!;! of Klenieutary lieoliigy " : —

" I described, iu 1 siiil. the fissil shells c.illcctcd liy Caplaiu lintield Iroui strnl.i of drill at lieauport
near (Juehec, in latitude 47 , and drew from them the iul'crencc that lliey iiiciicafcd a more iKuihern
climate, the >liells agreeing in great part with those of CddevMlla, in Sweden.' The rhcllv hcds allaiu
;it Heauport aud the ueighbourlidiid a height of 'joo, lilili, and somclimcs liio feet abo\c the sea, a;id

dispersed lliiMugh some of ibeiii arc large Imulders
a viulent curn'iit, liecau>e the acrciinpaiiyiug IVagili
• fore,' said Capt.iiu Baylield, writiu;' iu ls;!s

I' granite, whicli ( (mid not ha\e hceu propelled hy
>bel!> are almost all entire. ' They -ecm, tiiere-
lavc been drooped I'roiii melting ici', like

stones wliiili arc now anuually de|)osited iu the Si.

K. Mr. Itjiana's Ilnusc.

A. (May airl saii'l of liiL'lu'r /rrnun<U. with .V./r/mn/, &t'.

f. fJnivcl with boulders.

/'. Mri-*-* nf Sn.iiriif't riii/mii, I "J fiM't thick.

c Sunt! ull'l hvilii. witli .yfiiti tnnn'it'i, Si-niaiia (triftiltiii>lu-<t, \c.

(/. Dril't, with houliliT'* nlSyi'uiH'. .Xc.

f. VcUnw sunii.

//. I.amiiilitiHl flay, 2.'i I'wt tliii'k.

A. Horizontal I.owi-r Silurian .«tnita.

H. Vallov rc-i'xcav.ated.

.--imilar

l.awremc.'t I visited this lo.idily in IS p.', and
made the annexed section, which will give an
idea of the general position of the drift iu
Canada and the Ciiited Slates. I. imagine that
the whole of the valley (li) was ome tilled up
with the bed.'*, //, c, «/, i;/, which were di'positcd
during a period of snlisidence. and th.it siihse-
ipiently the higher country (//) was submerged
and overspread with drift. The partial re-ex-
cavation of li look place when this region Wim
again uiiliftcd above ihe .sea to its present
height."

La (iraude Conli'e, iu the Mine Mills of the
.\ssinniboiiie, described hy Mr. Dickinson, page

3o, olfcrs another illustr.itio

i)f an old rivci

that of the (^u'.\pp(
of Huperl's Land.

nevertlieiess a curious and instructive examiile

valley, hut piobiibly of more recent origin than
urface geology in this part

We crossed another of these valleys, here so

Ibitte," derlv
from 'JO to ;io cba

us, called ' La (irande Coulee de la Orosse

its name from a large conical hill about 'Jon feet high. The valley v.iries in width

iiiid

bout "11 feet di

of till' hill
be.Mitil'ul

idjoiiiing it.

The

I'Pi

but

iipiiearing much deeper in many places, by reason

les are very ]n'ecipitous, and the boltoni is ipiite level and covered with

lere is ni/ creel

till

1 it, or even the apjiearance id any recent one. Ti

miles up in it. towards the north, there is a small lake, aud another valley hnuiching otf t'rnm it, which

we crossed four iiiiles further on
rtl

it tt:

lere is a small creek six feet wide and one foot six inches dci

riie track turning to the north soon comes close to ' La (irande ( 'onlee de la ( Irosse IJutti',
:doiig it for nine in

nid continue!

is 8ii feet

■ miles. The scenery is now very wild and beautiful; the valley, the bottom of which
lelow the general ievid of the country, nils tlirinujli nnii/rs of hills dkiiii/ nf tlinii ]'iO fnt hii/li,

III wiiiils rnini-l flir liiisr nf' nflirrs. some hi

ire and rugged, and some covered wi

th i>i

Mrs.

The section of the Qn'Appelle X'alley fitan the .'^oiitli liraixli to the .Assinniboiui', with cros^-sections
at the several point-: marked A, 11, C, D, Arc. (sir lilhni/niiili nf tliv mil of tlir rnliiiuf), considered with
reference to the general features cf the country and its geidooical strui'liirc, will be amply snillcieiil lo

rove that tin

le dcci) lakes couK

strata at tin

i not have

tieen occasionei

I 1

iy tails or rai.K

poiiit>

as of

id-. N

or can i' e assume lliat

till- form of long, deep, .iml narrow basins at wide intervals a]iart

a sot't and yielding naliirc as to mliiiit of its being eroded into

le weiglit ot cvideiKc seem

111 favour

iif tin

valli'y of the (,lu',\i)|i

its I'oufinuation northwards

that the Soiilb Hraiich of the Saskatchewan, at a remote period, Mowed •

to 111

till

III debouched into the low cimiitiy bounded by the I'ernbiiia .Mouiilain, or

-' t.

Guol. Trails. , Jiul suriui** vol. vi.|i. t:lj.

t Froci.'vdings uf Ciuol. 800., Vo, 63.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

131

, ; TiiK Disposition ok nomk or thk Drift on; thi South HitA\<'ii.

It lias liccii stilted in Cliaiitcr \'., ]);if,'<' 7H, tliat houldors and siiiiiU iuisscs of shale in t}ie diil't clitl's,
wliieli oeciiv at tlie bends of the river lielow the Moose Woods, do ii^.i oecnpy tiie iiositioii tiiey would
assume if they had followed the law of ifravity, snpposinj; them to liave l)een dropped by iielierf;s or
ice Hoes. Kvery faet relatiiiff to the drift, whether heloiijriiiff to the hoiilder ])eriod or of more recent
origin, is of interest, and may a-'sisl in the eliiei<lalioii of that stupendous piienomeiion anil its suhsecpient
ehaii"'es, as well as tend to remove smne of the dillieulties with w hi< h the whole pheiioinena of tiie drift
are still invested, 'liic forced arraiif^enieiit of hloeks of linu'stone, slahs of shale and iinfussiliferous
hoiilders in the lilue clay of 'I'oroiito f(n-meil the subject of a pajier whicii I r<'a(l l)efore th(> Canadiaii
Institute some years ajjo. As the opportunities lor making ohservatioiis upon tliis peculiar arran/^e-
meiit were very favonralile at that time, I shall here introduce an abstract of the )ia|)cr, with a view to
explain more clearly than would (jtherwise lie possible the manner in which slai)s and bonlders are
found arranged in the .hilt on tiie i^oiith llraiich.

The extensive excavations which were made three mid four years ago in the clay deposits on which
the city of Toronto is built, duriiifj the eonstruction of various public work,-, such as the Ksplanade
and the (irand Trunk Haihvav, presented a very favourable opportunity for examining Mime pecu-
liarities in the arrangement of tlie materials of whicli the Toronto blue clay consists. In the construc-
tion of the Ksplamule, the plan ))ursuc<l of removing the blue clay was well adapted to show a perfect
sectional view of its eompouents, without th(> risk of chaiigaig in the least ilegiee their relative posi-
tions. The clay was ciil awav until a jierpeudicular wall was left, varying from 10 to 20 feet in height,
iiceordiiig to the locality. \Vedgeswere then inserted at the top of the artilicial elitli about two feel
from its edge, and driven into the ilay until a mass, freijueiitly twii feet liroad, I'l or 20 feet long, and
12 or If* feet dee|), separated and fell. The fresh surface thus exiniscd was necosarily ipiite natural in
every respect, not having liceii touched by the tool of the wiu'kiuaii or changed by exposure to the
weather.

During the years l.s,')."i ami l.s.Vl a large area of sectional surface was exjiosed in this way on the
liav shore, and fieipiiiil esaiuinations of the continually rciu'wed surtiices led me to study the disposi-
tion of the materials composing the bine clay. Two varieties of blue clay e\i.~t in the ueighbourliood
of Toronto, forming dcpcisils cpiite distinct from one another; it is, thereliiie, desirable to Hx at once
the position of the blue clay to which reference is now made. 'I'iic deposit in (piestion overlies the
rocks of the Hudson Hivcr group, which are exposed in many localities ov the lake shore and on the
l)aiiks of the rivers near the city. Its position was well sc'ii during the winixing of a (pmrrv opposite
the I'arliament Muildings; it was there observed to rest upon an argillai coiis sliah of the same line,
and easily ri'cogiii,!ed as coiistitiitiiig, in fragments of ditferciil sizes, a Inge proportion of the -iilistaiice
of tile bliic ilay. It can also be seen resting on the r.icks of llie same toriiialion, a little bcvoiid the
new garriMin, a few fei'l above the l.ike level, where il is not obscured liy the debris (pf the clilf of which
it forms the base -the upper portion of wliicli is composed of yellow ilay.

The thickness of this deposit of bine clay varies from lo to 2."i feel; its upper surface is irregular
and nndulatiiig : ii|ion it reposes sometimes stratilied sand and vellow clay, siiiiietinie^ uiistratitied
yellow clay. Iiesting on the sand or yellow day we find another kind of bine clav ilitl'eiiug, however,
esseiilially from the bine clay which lies at the base of the wliide. This upper blue clay is well seen
along the Scarboro' clitl's. where it is best exposed, and it is also n'cogiii/.cd in many otlii r ioealities near
and in Toronto. The lower or inl'erior blue clay contains (|uarl/ sand and small rolled pebbles of
granitic rocks, a considerable proportion of blue shale coiilaiiiiiig fossiU belonging to tlie Hudson Kivcr
group, and freipienlly large fragments of the la.-t-named rock, together with more or less rolled or worn
masses of granite, gnei~s, \c.

The fiagiiients from the Huds<iii Kivcr gnnip freipiently jireserve their edges sharp and well defined,
showing that they have not been water-worn or removed far from the rock from wliieh tliev originated.
They are found not only a few inclies tidin the surface of the parent rock, but in nnmeroiis instances
as far as ! "• io 2o t'eet above it, imbedded in a iieculia'' manner in the blue clay. .Some of the larger
fragments are scratehed and grooved.

A cursory inspection of the artificial dill's, as they existed during the eoiistriietioii of the Ksplanade,
was snlliciciit to show that a considerable number of the pebbles and imbedded masses of rock did not
occupy the position they vvoidd assume if they had not been siilyected to some other force besirles that
of gravity'or water in motion. The incliiiatioii of the subjacent rock is so wliglit (;1() feet in the mile)
that for all purposes of the present inipiiry it may

be considered hori/ontal. And it may be further
remarked, that there is no reason to suppose that any
material change in position has occurred since or
during the acciumilation of the blue clay. A h.rge
niiinber of the fragmenls of rock seen in the blue
clay ari" symmetrically inclined at an angle of lio,
70, and Nil degrees to the horizon and freipiently
lean towards the east and iiorth-ei,. t, Whenever
favourable opportimities oll'ered, I made iiieasiire-
nients of some of the most striking of these rock
fragments, mid rough sketches of their position as
they were revealed by the falling masses ofthcelitl",
loosened in the manner already described.

The following brief notes will serve to illustrate
this peculiarity better than a more luiigthuned
description.

1. A mass of shale (I'ig. 1) imbedded in the blue
vlay about 2 feet from its surface, and 18 fiom the
solid Toek. LargeBt diiimetor, 18 inches : brendtli,
14; thickness, 7; inelhicd at an angle of about
CO (legrecB, and leaning towards the north-east.

Fiy. 1.

II
il

132

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

liy.

'I'he ffrratcr imiiiliin' of water-worn stones and unworn frai^metitB of shale appear to have the same
inclination in tiiis spot."^ Locality, near tlie Water Woil.-;.

._N 'J. I'lie fj;eneral inelination of the fra),'nient.s of shale a few hun-

dred yards from the last-nunicd ])laee is at un angle of G(i° and
toward the oast. (I'ig. '.'■)
;{. Hoidders of gneiss distinctly seen in the blue clay, associated
F'kj. L". J^ ' ■' '^^ with jierpendicnlar fragments of shale.

4. A slab from the Hudson Itivor group, IS inches long, 1")
broad, ;( and 4 thick, very little water-worn, 7 feet from the top of
the blue clay, and Id feet from the solid rock, inclined at a high
s ' angle towards the north-east. A huidder of gneiss near this block,

not much worn, and slightly inclined in the same direction. Arnnid the slab numerous smaller
fragments of rock present the same inelination. ( i"i^. 3.)

'I'hese illustrations represent the general character of
the position of rock fragments in the blue clay for several
miles along tl.c lake shore. What force has thus sym-
metrically arranged these fragments of shale, &c. ? '1 hat
they now preserve the position into whidi they were
forced by jiressnre, or tliat they were brought from a
distance and left in that position, is sulliciently evident,
as we {'ainiDt entertain the ()])inion that the rock on which
the boulder drift rests has materially changed its inclina-
tion since or during the Drift epoch.

'J"he materials composing the blue <'lay are of two de-
scriptions, foreign and local. The same may be said (jf
drift generally. It has been observed by Mr. Murray
tiiat the coarser fragments reposing upon ea'-b successive
formation in the order in winch they occur in Canada is
made up witli the addition of whatever is of itriniary origin, of material derived from the formati":-.
itself, or of llic ruins of mimic lower deposits whose outcrop is to the north.

Till' graiiitii- fiagnc'iits present in the bhii" clay of Toronto are evidently derived from the north

or north-ca^t. .i.id inu-t liave travelled at least KlO miles before they were lodged in tiie phue where

they are now found. There can be no doulit that a wry huge portion of the drift of Canada has

y I been re-arranged since it was first deposited.

'J'lie iid'erior layer of blue clav is. iiowcvcr,
e?s('ntially dill'ercnt from the upper layer, wlii<b
is i'rc(|ucntly sejiarated from it by a lew feet of
sand, and in some instances may even directly
overlie il, and consist ol a re-arrangement of its
iiiaierials. Tin" superior bine clay, logclhcr
wilii llie sand and yellow i lay, IVe(|UCMtly gi\e
e\id(nii' of ^t^alili(illil'n, and liin.-' explain al
once the naluvi' if llic lurie lo which llicj ha\e
been siiliieilid. (I'ig. -1.) ^

'I'hc po.-ition of ide rock I'iagmcMts in llie
infcriiir Mue cl;iy i-liows llial it laiinol lia\i' been
M-.iiii'cleii 1(1 the ailio'i of «alcr. olbcrwi.-c lliev
«oidi| not prcMi ve the Iniccil arrangcnieiil wlili li
di>liiit;iiislic> iheiii. The IVagii.eiils ol'ilialc, as
rc|ircfciilril ill I'ig. I, ilMiliinilled loi;ra\ilv
aliiiii'. vwiiilii ii.il ba\e asMiiiicil llie po^iiicni in
Mliirli llicy were I'lHiiid iiad llieyiinippcil llii(iiij;li
wiilrr ill iHolii II or walir iil rc.~l into m.Ii ii,ud.
It is well known that sliiii^;lc, .--aiid, gravel, and
clay. I ilbcr >cpar;ilcly <ir (uiiiliiiied. wIimi llno«n
di>»n an incline, as in llic conslrniliini of a
railway ('iiiliaiikiiient or a> in a land slip, will
a-siniii' a po.-iliuu npon llie surface of the c iii-
baickiiiciit, wliicli, if 1 iiiislriulcd of. -and, is generally inclincil about 4.V ; if of harder or coarser ni.iterials,
at a higher angle. If llic eiubaiiknicnt or iiuline lie Unincil under water, like the deltas at the mouths
of rivers, this inclination is much h'ss, and is de|iendent ujion the specific gravity of the materials;
but i.:i'l"r no ciicinnstatKes is it so high as l">" when llie bank is formed under water. Il, now, we
conceive a currcnl siillii iently jioHcrfiil lo move massi s of shale and boulders of the untiissilifcidus
rocks, il is ii:il to be supposed thai they would be found deposited upon the slojie of a bank at so high
an angle as the shale and bniilders in llie blue clay of Toronto ; ncilbcr is it in the least degree probalile
that the i iirrciit wliiib could triin^porl these heavy materials would admit of ihe iiiiNlurc of clay, sand,
shale, and liiiililns, muIi as (oustiluics the blue clay. The materials would be Mirlcd by the current
and deposited in ihe order of iheir specific gravity. 'I'hc sdiliii;! v{' iiinhriiil.i is one of the nio>t positive
proofs ol'llic aition of nnrenls; and where iii; Iracc t>f .■milim/ can be discovered, when line sand, coarse
sand, pebbles, and boulder.- are present, we may reasonably infer ihal no current assisted in dislribuliug-
tlicni.

Among llic foicign I'lateiial? eiilering iiilo lliu composition of llie blue clay, we find granilic masses
which have been bniiigbl iVoin the ont>kirls of the fo^siliferous rocks in Canada, a dislaucc of at
least 100 miles from their prc>ciil [id.'-itidn ; ihrongliout the blni' clay we disco\cr also the magnetic
oxide of iron, which is tiiuiid in such abundance in the washed sand of the Peninsula of Toronto
llailioiir, and in Icii told greater (|uanlity on the I'cninsula of the Hondcau, in Lake Krie, at Ireble the
dibtmice from its northern source. The inaterials of local origin exist in great abundance in tlie form

VELtOW CL*¥

OI'PEH btUE CI.AV

CflNb AND GRAVEL

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITIOX.

1:53

of fragments and masses of shale, limestone, and day derived from the underlyinf,' sliules, &c. 'I'lio
nature of the agent whieh transporteil the foreign materials from so great a distance is almost universally
aeknowledged to iiave been water and floating ice. The finer materials may ha\e been eonveycd by
water, the coarser drift and erratics would re(iiuro floating or moving ice. There can l)e little doulit
that both water and floating ice (icebergs and floes) iiave been instrumental in bearing from mirtiieru
fossiliferoua and nnfossiliferous rocks a considerable (jroportion of tlie numberless erratics which strew
the surface of a large part of this continent, as well us nuu'li of the clayey deposits wb'icli \vc see every-
where around us. liut the symmetrical arrangement of some of the slabs, pclibles, and boulders ui
the blue clay at Toronto, in the clay dill's of the South Hrancb of the Saskatchewan, and in otlKM-
localities where the same disposition may'be witnessed, points also to tlie action of iilmhil or stviinilfit
ice. The j)henomcna nn»y be explained by eo.vst iw, or tiie dirt bauds of glacial ice, but thi? entire
absence of a sorting of flue and coarse materials seems to destroy the hypothesis which introduces the
agency of currents of water, as the forced but symmetrical arrangement does that of floating ice.
May not the plastic and irresistible agent which picked U|) the materials coin]iosing the blue clay, and
then iiu'lting, left them in their present position, have been largely instrunumtal in excavating the
basins of the great Canadian Lakes ?

CHAPTER XV.

CMMATK Ol' A I'OUrlOX Ol' KlTKlir S T.AMl.

Cliiiiatc of IIt; I.iuirontidcs and tlio IVairies — IVozen Lukes — Mean Ainuial Tcmporatiirc — Arid and Hriniil
UcKion — Sources of Iluniidily— (^ausu of Aridity West of the iWtli Meridian— luHneiico of tlic (ii If of
Mexico — Ivdcky Mounlaiii System — Mississippi Valliy — Arid liegion of tlic United Stiites- — ll-uniil liei'ion
of the Valley ol' Lake Winnipeg — C'.iuscs of — ICIevalioii of tlie Country — Ilnmid I'acilic W nds — Xorth-
easlerly Current — -The Arid ite^inii — Prevailing Winds — Source of tlitr lluiniility — Hail Stor us- — .'I'IuukLt-
Stornis in IS.W^l'rogreas of Dunes — .Sunnner Surface Wind — lloekv Mountain I'iateau- -Deiiressiou in
— Table of I'.levutioii of I'liiteau and Passes — Importance of Cap.. I'allisur's Discoveries — Seasons of the
Vallev of Lake Wiiniipeg — Meteorology of lieil Kiver — Winter 'reciperainres — Winter renij)eratnies at
Montreal — ('old Terms — (Quebec Temperatures — Climate of llie South Ijiancli "f the Saskatchewan —
Limit of perinaui ntly frozen Soil — (iiowih of l'ore»ts — Tail of t!ie I'rairies- -I'rairiis converted into
I'orist Land in Missouri — .Sea-oiis on the Main Saskatchewan - At I lut ;i hi Cornt — At C'ninheiland House
— .At Carlton House — .•Vt lied liiver — Character of tin' (ireal I'laun in tlu' l'i\iteil Stales— Major I'.nuHy's
Statcinent — Auroras — Oct. 'in.l — Oct. 'iTtli — Colonel I.efroy's Oils, rvalions — Altitude of AiUMras — Cou-
nexioo with the .Vtinosphere — Sound — Sir .(ohu Itiehardson's Oliservations — The Twilijjlit How.

Tlie climates of Canada and Uiipert's Liind, iiiider the same parallels of lalitiide, vary to a con-
siderable extent with the rock formatimis id' the cinmtry. Tbroiighoiit the undulating region of the
Lanrenlides the pr(i|>()rtion of wnter to dry land is about one to two, not collected into one laige water
area, but distrimitcd over the surfaci' (dibe c(uintry in tlu' form id' cininlless tlioitsaiids nf lakes, jionds,
and marsbes. The intense cold of winter is siillicieiit to solidify tlic deepest l.ikcs tor a ileplli of
several feet, and the thawing of so iniicli ice in sjiriiig lias the cll'cct of alisorliin^' ,iiid icndcring latent
the beat wbieli winild be otlierwi-e expended in warming the soil and ;idvancing vcgiiaticni.

Lakes Winnipeg, Mauitobab, and Winuipego-sis, together with the smaller lakes belonging to the
Winnipeg basin, are deeply frozen every winter, and ice often reinains in their i;urtlieni cNtreinities
until the lieglnning (d' .lime, greatly retarding the progress of vegetation on their imiiicdiate shore:!.
lience one reason that north of the .JVtli or -iHtli paralli I llie inildiie^s of the seasons increases rapidly
as we adva'ice towards the west, after leading Kcil Itiver. 'llie iinprovenient .-irises not oidy 1'roni
greater li.iigitnd,' but also from the eliaracter id' the lock forinations by wliich the country is iindcilaid
.•itid siirroiindcd. The soil of the prairies is in general dry, and is rapidly v.aniicd by llic rays id' the
sun in spring. Tiu' priories enjoy too, north of the ,'i^\\\ |iaiallel, the genial, warm, and ci;in|iaiativi'ly
linniid winds fre'ii the Pacific, which are felt /is f,ir iicrlh as the latiliuir of Kurt >inipson.'

The mean aniinal tcm)icratnre of -In , as d. Icrmiiied by the Snrulisonian Institution, ]iassc llirongh
( 'anaila and Lake ."superior, curves tiortliwaiit and leaves the I'iuIimI Stales for l)riti^ll .\inerica at
about the Itli'nd incriilian, crossing the South iirancli (d'tlie .'Saskatchewan north of the l^lbow.

The I'iniiitry enibraecd within the limits ol 'bis cNplcration may be divided into Ism regions in
relation to climate; the arid anil the Ininiid region. The vast treeless prairie west (d'tlie Little Siniris
lies within that part id' the .-irca which receives cnniparatively a sm.-ill aiinnal rain-fall. Its nortlicrii
linnt is roughly shown by the (,'u'.\]ip(dle Valley, or more .-n curatcly by an imaginary line drawn
from the l'"ishiiig Lakes to the Moose Woods. Ninth tind east id' tins area the precipitation is
considerablv greater, and supplies the valley of the Main .Siskalcliewan, the Tinicbwooil I (ill range,
luid the valley id' the Assinniliohie with an abuiidaiicu of moisture, which is protected iind treastired
by forests.

The valley of Ked Hiver east <d" the Little Sourls, m the IDlst degree of longitude, receives miieli
lumudity from the moist winds coming from the (inlf id' !^le\ieo up the valley of the Mississippi, and
over the low height of land which scjiaralcs the waters cd' I'ed liiver from those of the St. I'etcr.

The Touchwood Ilill range and the country generally north id" the (ju',\ppelle \ alley, and in an
easterly direction towi rds and beyond Lake Winnipeg, arc n^ade humid by (lie south-west Pacific wind,
in concurrence with tin- ])revailing cast wind of this region, 'i'liese iibenomena are referred to in detail
in succeediug paragra|)hs.

The cause of the aridity and tuifitness for settlement of fully one-third (d'the United States lias been
ably discussed by distinguished meteorologists. Th(> physie.il geography of that vast leginii has been
very admirably deseribcil by Dr. .loseph Ilenry.f I avail myself of a few extracts from Dr. lleiny's

■ of n large

paper to illustrate the causes which produce the aridity i

fge portion of tlie \alley of Luke Winni-

• ('..Iniifl I.itVoy — JloU'iiroliigii'iil llliMMialions nt I.iilu' .\tllab.l^..l iilid Furl SiirpMin, (i. l;!!i.

t Metioiulu^y iu its I'uiiiKxiun uitli iigrinilturr, tjj I'nif. .Io'.e|ili lltiay, Switlarj- ot'tliL' Sniillisoiiiaii Iiistiiiiliun,

R 3

134

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

\wr;, 1111(1 tlip pr(ibiil)le I'xplanntioii of tiic liiiniidity of the rugioii properly liulonging to tlie Biibordiimte
viilli'V of the Assiiiiiiliciih'.'.

*' 'I'lif i-iimati! (if u diritriit is iiiatciiiilly iilfcctcd by tiic piisitiiiii and nbysical gcoi^iaphy of the
I'omilrv to wiiicli ir boldiijis liidrcd, wlii'ii tbi' latitiidi', lolifritu'li', and liciglit of a place above tlie neti
are i;iieii, and its |nisition relative to nniiinti'in ranges and tbe ocean is known, an a|)pros;iniate e.stiiiiate
may be formed as to its elimate.

"At tlie soutlieni extremity of tbe United Stat' s is tbe great elliptieal liasiii coiit^iiiiiiig the per-
petually heated waters of the (inlf of Mexico, an enormous steaming cauldron coMti.inally giving olf
an immense ainomir of vaiionr, which, borne northward by the wind of the Mpotb-west, gives geniality
of climate and abnndant fertility to the eastern portion of onr domain. On tbe western side of the
eontilU'iit the coast presents, as a whole, an ontline of donlile i invatnre, principally convex to the west
ill that jiart which is ocenpied by the Pnited States, and concave further north. 'I'liese bends of the
eoast-liiie and of the adjaceiii parallel moniitain ridges all'ect the diri'ction of tbe winds in this (piarter,
and cons<(piently of the ocean eurients. 'I'he (lull of California at the south, lietwei'ii tbe !'.;;di nioini-
taiiis of the )ieninsula of that name and those of the main land, must also modify mateidly the
direction of the wiml in that region-

"'I'he continent of North Ameiica is traversed in a northerly and southerly direction by two
e\tensi\i" ranges of nionntain? the Alleghany system on the east and the KocUv McMinlain system
on the west. We give tbe latter naiiU' to tbe whole ii|)heave(l plateau and all the ridges whicb are
based upon it. 'i'liese two systems se|iarate from eiicli other more widely a^ «e pas- uorlbward, and
between them is tbe broad interval Hliicli, within the territory of tbe I'liiti'd .'^latcs. is deuoniinateil tbe
valley of the Mi-si-sippi; but in reality tbe depression continue- noitliManl to IluM-nn- May, anil even
to the Arctic Ocean, giving free scupe to tbe winds whicb may descend from that inhospitable reitioii.
It, however, may be divided into two great basins, one sloping towards the south, comprising ibi' ba>iii
of the Mississippi, and the other sloping to the north, ineluding the basins of Mackenzie's river and of
Hudson's May. the dividing swell whicb may be traced along the heads of the streams having an
elevation of almul l.'JOIl leet.

"Tbe general character of the soil betHeen tbe Mi-si-sippi river and tbe Atlantic is that of great
fertility, and as .1 wlK^le, in its natural condition, with some exceptions at the west, is well supplied with
timber' 'I'lu- portion also mi tbe we-tern -ide of the Mis>i»ippi. as far a- tbe Itstli meridian, including
the States of 'I'esa-. Louisiana, Arkansas, Mi--onri. Iowa, and Minnesota, and |iorliou.-. olilie 'rerrilcuy
of Kansas and Nebrask;i. are fertile, though abuunding in prairii - and subject occasinually to droughts,
lint the whole space to the west, between tbe PStli nicriiliali ami the Kocky Mountains, di'ii.iininaled
the lireat .Vnierican i'laiiis. Is a barren wa>le, oyer wliieii tlie lyc" 111. ly roam to tbe csteiil of tbe visible
bori/oii willi -caicciv an object to break the monotony. I'roni the Itockv Mountains to the Pacific,
with the exc.'plioii of llie rich lait narrow bell along the ocean, the cduulry may also be coii>idcred, in
conijiariMiii wilb oiher portions of the I'liiled State-, a wildeiness iinlill.^d f(ir the uses of the busband-
nian ; although in some of the nionnlain valley s, as at .S.ilt Lake, by means ■ if irrigation, a precarious
supply of food i.iay be ubtained -ullii-ient to sustain a con-lderable population, proviiled tliev <'an be
inducrd t.i sulimit to privations fnnii wbicli American ci,l/eiis gi'iierally wnuld shrink. The pmliou- of
tlie nimilitaiii -y-teni furlber -outli .are eipially inbo-pitable. though tiii'V have b,', n repre-culed to be nf
a ditferent cbaiacter. In tr.ivcr-iiiii' this region, whole days are Ireipiciitly pa—ed without mectiug a
riiiilet or -priiig of water to slake the tbir-t of the we.iiv traveller.

" We have stated that tbe entire region west of the lls^th di'gree of we-1 Idugitnile. with the cNcepticni
of a small pcitioii of Western Texas ,ind the narrow biM'dcr along tbe I'acilic. i- a country of com-
paratively little value to the agriculturist: and, ;-..-rli,ips. it «ill a-toni-b ihe readi'r if we direct liis
atlentio'i 1.1 the fact that this line, which passes southward from Lake Winiiipi'g to the (inlf of Mexico,
wid divide tbe whole surface of the I 'nited Slaic- into ttto nearly rcpial part-. Tbi- -tati'iiienl, when
fully appreciated, will serve (o di--ipate some of tbe dreai.is wliieh have been considered a- realities as
to the destiny of tbe western part of the North American ■ontineiit. Truth, however, transcend- even
the laiidabli' feelings of pride irf cciuntry; ■•iiid, in order properly to dlrccl the (lolicy of ihi- great
eontederaiy. it is uece--ary to be well aecpi.iiuted uilli the lb. aire oil which its futuri' history is to be
enacted and by whose cbarai-ti r it will mainly be -ha|ied."

Ilr.Miii liii.iiix 01 riiK V'.\i.i.i;\ 01 Lam; Winmcii..

Mroiuinent ananig the ciiuses wbicli tend to give Iminidity, togetlier with an elevated spring and
summer ii'iiipcralure, to a part of the valley of Lake Wiunipi'g, there m,iy bf iiotic ed : -I'irst, tlie
eoinparativcly luw elevation of the country above the sea level. The pr.iiries of lied Uiver, within
Mriti.-li Territory, arc not more than Tlid feet above the ocean. Those on the South Mrancb ol tbe
S.i-katihewaii, at tbe Llbow. do mil exceed l,(iilo feet, and tlie mean elevation of the country, bclwi'en
the South Ib.Mii'b and the Riding Mountain is mily 1,'Joo feet above the same level.

Second, tbe iutlueuce ol' the warm wi'stcrly winds from Ihe I'acilic ()( can, in coiiiie\i(in wilb tbe
prevalhng nortii-ea-l wind, vvliicb is one of tbe eslablishcd pli\-ical plieiionieii,i of tbi- pari of Mritisll
Ami Ilea. It would appear, at first sight, thai tbe siiow-eapped ridge-^ of the Ca-cadi , Mine and liocky

Mounluiiis, would abstract so much lii'at from the warm we-te:i_v winds 1 dug from the I'.ieilic

Ocean, as to neutrali-e their inlhieiiee upon tlie winter and spring temperature of a large part of the
country drained by the Saskatcbewan Such, however, is nol the c,i-i'; and happily for the purpose
of practically sub-tautiatiiig this apparent anomaly, we have indisputable testimony.

Ill tbe magnetic d and nielcorologieal observations at Lake .Athabasca .mil I'ort .Simpson, bv t"ol.
Lefroy. U.A., wc lind the following important observation, in rcdatimi to the phenomena of i'acilie
winds atl'ecting the climate of the Northern rcgiois;-

"A loe.d pheiiomenoii of interest was observed several times at I'ort Simpson (hit. (Jl' '>\' 7" N. ;
long. Hh. .V W W. ; Hid miles IVoni .Sitka, (LHDOgoo. miles from Toronto), in the ra|iid rise of the
temper.itiire of the air, when the wind changed to the south-west from an easterly direclion. It
I., ii'.c „..;.. !• .1... it.,..:r...i\ c" 1 .1 ;,-i.i. '....; ..-..i.- r

ippeared a;

if I

le warmer cur o

' the I'ac-itie Ocean were transferred across the iieii;liboiirinLf riclifes ol

(■

the Iliieky .Mountains with little loss of its teinperatuie.

SASK\T(niEWAN KXPLOUFNCJ EXFEDiriON.

13.5

Much of tlio prpcipitatinn in tho humid rcf^Inn is (hie to the I'acifio winds, whicii arc not so cnin-
njptoly deprived of tlicir moiHturc in tnivcr^injf the Kocky Mountain ranjfcs as in lower latitudes,
where the average altitude of these ran^'cs is mueii hiijher and the eiutern slope of the mountain of n
I'nr ifriiitrr mean imiiunl t-miirriitiin:

'f'lie prevalent winds at Toronto and Lake Athahnsca helonif, as shown by Col. Lefroy,* to dirterent
and nearly opposite systems. A iioifh-iirsterli/ current preponderates in the lower latitudes (HJ^ 3!)'), ii
nor/li-nis/rr/i/ current, inclined at an Mni,'le of about 117° prevails in the higher one (oK' 4,7). Hetwcen
these latitudes is a refj-ion of calm or of variable winds; and there cm be no duubt that the north-
easterly current malerially p.lfccts the humidity of the climate of Kujiert's Land north of the .>(ith
paiallcl. 'I'lie prevalence of north and nf)rth -easterly winds dnrinfi the winter months occasi(nis a <rreat
precipitation of snow thniuj,diont the humid rcffion. In the Touchwood Hill range snow not unfre-
cpu'ntly accnninlatcs in the woods, where it is undisturbed b ■ winds, to the depth of t«o feet; on the
Hiding and Duck Mountain the precipitation is also large, and throughout the humid region very
nuich in exiess of the precipitation in lower latitudes.f

Forty-eight indies of rain and 'M' inches nf snow were registered by Mr. (iuun near the St .ne Kort,
Ked Kiver, between .luiu' 1st, IH.I.;, and May :>lst, 18.10. The preciiiitation at Toronto during the
sanu- ]ii riod was I-in inches of rain and 7- of snow, giving an excess of huinidiry to the climate of
Selkirk Settlement, as I'omparcd with 'I'cironto for thai period, represented bv 14 inches, a ([Uantity
exceeding llic amuial preciiiitation over the greater iiortion of the eastern llanl< of the Rock>' Minm-
tiiin soutli of the great Missouri liend.

The aril! region, or Cireat I'lain, west ofthe lolst degree of longitude, receives a very small amount
of precipitation from the lumiid south winds cinning up the valley of the Mississippi from the (iiilf of
Mexico. It is too I'ar soiitii to be iimch all'ected liy iinrtli-ciist winds, or tiie wc-.|cily winds from the
I'acilic. This \ast treeless prairie I'orms in fact tlii' uortliciu limit of tlie gnat arid region ol the
eastern Hank of the llocky Mniintaiiis ; but still its liuniidity is greater than tlu^ plains south of the
Missouri, in lonseipience of its higli northern latitude.}

* Ma;;i)ctiriil and MctiMiroIouIriil Olisirviitioiis al f,:ilii' AlIial'iistM.

t ('.iiiiiiuit' I, mill Mlol^rl's It. till Cli.irct.

i I'litiii its iiMiiiili Ici Iti',' (iri'at Iti'iHJ. llii' .MisMjtiri mlmiu iT aliiui-t coiilimums Mdtriiieiit on its iiuiufdutle lianks} tlii'iu'c lit Ftirt
l.'iiit.ii. (inlj itttotu niu'.r.Mirli i-t'iiM lij iiil.iv It. .! ; ami a! tn.' IVit L'liiiiti iiiaiiy i'Muisi\.' 'ml JiI.iLlnti l,uttu:i;s sIkmv tliuir adaptation
l'i;r 'in;ill iii:lf[H'll(l< lit a^incoltor.il auMs.

'I'lit* ^'fi (ral Wfslward jTov^rfs oI'M-itlcnn ,ir a 1'. iv iu;li s wt'.t of tliu ('li;tLr Ml^-omi jtiscr t^ r.iidir^it iui|Missi!.lL' liy t!..- ^o^.litiol:^.
oC ijiliiat ■ anil Miil hIji Ii |Mi v.;il lli'.rc. 'llic imwi.-i ol" Mtlliaiuiit niltsl iHc's-oily In' ii|i tin- vali.y nC ila.- .Mi^^i^■^,»ili, lai tla-
iinlmiii.ili' liaiili- ol'lli' .Mi-Miiiri. aial ll.rdu.Ji Ilii' valii)- it( l\w Hid liivir of tin' lanlii. to llu' i-ultiv.ilili.''ar.iO. ni llii. Ilasin nl' l.aliL'
\Viiiiii|ic;;. Ttii- i-K|(loratitni lor till' I'acilii- railroad and tliv iiii'tioioIo(;ic.d inVL'>li;-,'aliim-. larri.d nil muk'r tik- dirit'Iiitil ol' the Suij^oon
(nail ral III' till- fiiitiil Stalls army '.lioiv foiudiisivi'ly thai tin M'Uli aim ofai.y iiniioilaiu-i- ran bi' i-st.ilili.sia'd ovir a vast ixIl-iii ol
.■iMiiilrv, many liandrid mills I •^■lad, on lliv taairii llaii's ol' tin- Koil.y Miiniil tins, and suiitli oi" tli.- (iiiat Iliiiil ol'tlii- !\lis-,onii,
tlui.i;. In tin- alisiiirr ol'rain, till* aptian-ntly uTial riwr-. tin- I'latli, thf Canadian, tin- Arkansas, I've, .iro ol'lt'ii loni, ruil into Ion;;
ill till iiiil riai-la-s or poiuts duiiiif; tta- siiiimu r imintlis. and t'orltid rx .a-ivf s.-ltli nu-iils ivi-il on lliilr iiniiK'-'ialr lanks. 'I'tiis ^^riMt

.iinl ini| orlani pliysiial latt is r.intiaiy to iaipidar o|»iinoii. whiill is mail ly liasi-d npi i iaspvvtion ol' a map, and oniilid liy tin*

^Inwiii;; hnt iitlrrly i vroin-oiis di M-riptioiis ultu-Ii art- pi-rimliially I'irnilatid rvspix-tiii.; Ilit- uonilL'rt'nl t'LTlility ut" tlu' i-'ar Wi-sf, and its
lapaliilily of snslainin^ a drllsi' popnlalion.

rill' arid ilisiriits ot lliu l.'ppir .Missonii arc liarrin trai-ts. wholly iincnitivaldc, I'tolii varimis i-ansi's.> T.'ic arid plains tiitwiail tin*

IMalli d t'anaiiiaii Uiwrs at. in ;;n it pail 'and tU'ial'. 'IIh' " .Sa;{t. plains." or dry disltii-ts, with jiitlc vt'^rtalili' ^_'ro\\tli I'xri'pL

\arirlirs of Artinilsia, la- in on tin- «rstiin liordir ot tlir plains of tin- iM-tirn Uoiky IMotintain sh,p,., and iomt niiKll tin- laiiiir
poitioii ot' tin- uholi' i-oiintry m'-liiaril.- 'llif 'li'rtU' n jiitnj on tin' lasliTii sloor oi' tin- l{otk\ Monnlains laj.'ins alioiit .■.m I or Mil)
noils iM'st of till- Missls-ippi, and its liri-ailtl- variis I'loiii 'JiHl to ^iM tiiih's ; and It is tlitn sunaiiiid liy ilu' limky .Aliaiiitain r.iii;:i',
utni'li, ris.iij( from an alt it ink- of ."■.•.'CO in Int. ;!■- , rtsnliis Ui.lNHl !t'tl in lat. ; S , and dicliin's to 7, Inn fi-i'l in lat. -CJ ■ ■_'-!'. and alunil
isiHHi in tat. -17 . AUiiiK this latiLlf isolatn piaks and rid^i s riM' ititti tlio limits of ptrpitnal snow, in sntlif iiisiani'i.-s attaining .\n
I'liiation nf IT.IHK) fift. Tin' Iniadlh of tin Itoiky Mnnnlain mii. ;i' varlis from afo to o,h! inilrs. Thi' soil of tho -rialiT part of
Iho stfiilo ri-;:ioii is lua i ss;irily so from its lomposition, and « In-ri' «i 11 taaislilnti d for li ridily, I'loni ihf absriiif of r iin at itrlain
si-asons. TIh* ^laitTal rharai-lir of t'Mrinu- suidity likfwiso laloiiifs to ihi' ronatiy i-mliraiid in tin- namntani n-ioii.' I'l.f lahlo
siil,|oint-il is lapal.lr of convi yin;,' a vriy j:ooil nl, a of ll.n ;:itnt hirrliT lo tin.' ui'sluaril prii;.'r.ss of si-,iti im-nt Mint'lt lits Intwi-in tin-
.Mi-i->ippi valliy and till.' I'a'i ill, slop,',.! Ilii' ll.iiky Moiinlnnv ll i. i\tt..iliil liiini a lal.K' 'lunvini,' llio 1, iljitln, sums of asi inls
and d, SI I Ills. ,Si'. \i-. of tin- stirtal loiitvs siirvi uil for a riillioad from thr Mississippi to tin' I'arillf, and |-uldi-ln.al in llic *' Kxpliira-
tiiilis and Surveys" tat'ori' i|noti'd, page :I I .

i " I "

t \o. of Mill's of Uonli' j N"o. of S,|. Mdi's
No. of Mills ' (tiroii;;li I.allds .^-im rally ! of Sums nl Arnas of
lAtl;;li) of Kliilway. of ItonlL' tlnon^h lillL'liilivaliK', Araldi' | lar'^ist liodics of

! .\ralili' I ami. Soil lii-ing foiiiiil in .ni.ill Ar.iii!.' Land in nii-
i Amu. ■ I'nliivahli' l(>');ions.

Ilonli' mar tho ITtli ami -I'lih I'ai
„ „ -list ., l-.'nd

,. ,. ;isih „ :l!itli

„ „ :1.1th I'urallil

,, il'.'iid ., -

Mill's.
I.'^i'l
'.MH'J

'J.OHO
I.KII'J

1.818

l,i)i«i
l,UK<
I.IUO

■-'.atxi
'.',:i')o

This lahK' sliowi ilint tlio Kast distalii'i' of nninlliiahly land thronuli whitli a lailuay from tlip Mississippi to thi' Parilic must pa.ss,
in ihi' l.'nitt'il Stall's te,.=''' y, t'Ki'eids I.'JlK) mill's in li'iiRth — « harriir sntHi'ii'lit to arrist the .m'liiral prii;.'ri's,s of M'llU'inent, for vi'rv
many vi-ais to t oiiii', ill n L'liiirsi' diii' mst of thi' Mississippi,

till' only diri'tiiiiii iiliiih ri'iiiains for I'Minsiii' fuo soil ..tlliirint in .tnd ni.'r llu' I'liilid Slali's i.; imrthwaids, p.,rti.illv aliiii"
i; .. .'i.. . I ,' .1... M: : .a i... i i r .i... M :;.:., ' i -i '• - -■ - '- ' - '"-

I'am' (,SI, Ann) Mrliillolo^iial lii j;i .li r, 1 1. S. •' lllid.

Kxpluratiun and .Siirvi.vs for .i lailioad ii iiu- from Ihi? Mississippi Uivcr to tin' I'atific Ocean, pauc -10

R 4

136

UKl'ORTS OF THE ASSINNIHOINK AND

I'liKVAii.iNo Winds,

All tlip tiumdcr-storms woiMicDiintcri'd in Is.'jH in tilt- viillcyof l.iikoWiimipcjf cnino fidiii tlio »i-»t, soiilli-
west. ur ncii(li-wi'>t, willi (nu- 0M'i'|>lii>ii. I dci iint liiiil a siii;;li' iccnnl (if tlmiKlci-slnniis with liciivy rain
CDiniiii; (VoiM the siuitli. 'I'lii.-^ may liavc Ikmmi an i'Nc("|itiiinai year, l)nt the warnitii anil drvncss, nl'tiMi
ii|i|iii"-si\i'. Ill' till' sontli winil, wi'rit orilic IdOth ilcffici' nt'ldn^ritiid,., ,.ontiiist('(l stniiifriy with tlic lininiilily
and (•iinlni'«< uf winds IVnin the wot. 'I'liis |ilii'niinM-n(in is diicctly iipimscd |i> tluisc wliirii picvail in
liiwcr laliliidt's, and may pnilialijy lie r\|ilain('d as fdlliiws: —

\\ arm aii' I'mm tiic IVirirw, lundcd willi nioistnic, passes at ci-rtain ihmIimIs df tlu> year iivcr the wIhpIc
ianj.rc (pftiii' Itmky Muimtains in Hrit'nii America and in the rnilcd States. These I'aeilie winds neea-
siim Imt a mtv smi.ll precipitation nt rain ur ^mhw un iIk' easlern llank nl'the Itncky Mnimtains, siaitli nf

tile (Jreal Mi--Huri Mend. Similar winds (rum the I'aeiKe d easinn a omsideralile preeipitatinii In the

Hdrtliern part (if the Saskatchewan vallev. Whence, then, this apparent aimnndy ? It pmlialily arises
tViim the dilVerence in the temper.itme ul the two re;;inns, the directinn nl' the prevailinif winds, and the
l(iwnes~ and ciimpar.iliM'ly small lireadfh i>( the Itncky Mmnitain ranges in that latitnde. In spriii;; and
snnnner. warm westerly winds. !:ideM with mi)isinre, in passing' over the nmnnlain raii!,'e sciiith nt', s.iv,
llie -Kith parallel, are chuNmI tn a certain tcmpi'ratin-e, and pri'cipitate the fjreati'r pnrlidii nf their innistnr'e,
in tlie liirin nf rain nv smuw, npnii ilie nuMnitain rid^'e-. On arming' at the ea.^lcrn llank nf the lincky
Mnnntains, their temperatme li-es tn that nf the re;jinn nver which thev pass, lieiii;; elevated liy the
<lepn~ilinn nf thi'ir nmi-ture in tl'c 'Tm nf rain nr snnw, and cniitimially increasinj; density as they
dc-cend : hnt the c.ipacily nf air inr mni>tin'e i^ well knnwn In hi' depi'iident npnii its temperature,
wiihin certain limit-, hence the westerly I'aeilie winiis liecnme mnre warm and nmn" dry a- they descend
the e;i-tern lim ky Mnnntain slnpe. imlil ihcy mi"el the innist winds from the (inlfnf Mexicn passinjf up
the \;illcv nftlie Mi"i-~ippl. tnw.\riN and ihrimth the rcyinu nf the Oii'al Canadiaii Lakes anil n\i'r the
Inw lieishl nl'land ■eiiar.itiny the waters llnwin,:; inin Lake Winnipe;; I'mm the Missi., .ippi v.dley.'

In the laliliidc nf the \ alley nf the Sa-kalchewan, Imwevcr, the innist sunt h west winds I'mm the I'aeilie
fnid a limad dcprc--inu in the Kmky Mnuniain rani:c, ami Insinjr le-s hinnidily than tlmse passin;; nver
the hin^her ran^'e- tn the snuth, au'ci willi :i pri'vaiiin;.' imrlh-easterly wind as tlicy licf^in tn descend their
eastern llank, their temperature is cniiseipiently le-«eneil instead nf lieini; elevated, .nid their capacity I'nr
nini~ture dimiiil-lied. hence preeipitatinii In the fnrin nf rain and hail take> place as they de~cen<l the slnpe
InuanU Lake U'Innipe;,'.

llall--tnrm» arc imt unfreipieiil diuiiiLf the >ummer mnnlhs, and the |irairie- siiinetiiiie> retain the
ri'cnrd- nf liieir nccurrenee for many weeks. ( )n the (iraiid Cnlean de Mi--snini hailslnrnis ai'e ~n vinlent
that the slimes have lieen kiinwii In penetr.ite the liull'aln skin tents nf the Indian > wlm hunt nn that
elevated plateau. The thuiider--tnrnis of Is.jS are j;ivi'ii in the annexeil talile.

Taih.i: 'linwiiiu' the Ni Mill II of Days nil hIiIcIi Kaiv fell, wi'li the (ii aiiac riu nl' ihe ■riiiNDKK-.sroUMn,
iliiiiiiU llie SiMMMi III' IS.'),'.. Ill ihe Vai.i.kv of the .\-slN.\liin|M'. aiiil .S\sk a reiiKWAN.

Dnle.

Til

Cliaruetcr nl' SiDriii.

Liicalily.

.Iiiiie

IS
III
'.'II
'Jl

,.'-'r,.<jT '
,.29-;i() I

.Inly

„ 11 I

,. i;j

„ H'
„l+-I.'3

„ Ij

Is
19

August

'JS
2

18
2,1

Heavy rain, iIiiiiiiUt ....

Slif;lit rain .---■-
A (crrillc tliumler-.'itiinii, heavy rain, liij;h wiiul
Trciiieiidmis tlnimiir-slnriii, liailstoncs | | .^ in. in
(li.Miieler.

(i p. 111. - - 'riiiiiulcr-sliiriii. heavy rain - - - -

;). !.■; p.m. (i p.m. rcrrilic tliuiiilcr-slnrm, coiitiiiiieil roar nf tliiiiidcr

vvitliniit jiilerini^sioii I'nr 1^- hours.

Viiilciit tliiiiKler-sturm, lieiivy raiii . - .

'riiuiider and rain . . . • .

riiiiiulcr and rain . . . . -

Heavy rain with riilliiij; tlimidcr, nitlidiit interiiiisslnii

I'nr 1 lidiir.

' I!:. in

I.i^lltllillJ; ill the east, im rain, tliernuiiiu li r in sliailo
i '.t'2 , at miiiii.

i Itain

' Tlunider-'-tDnii, liail, and heavy rain
p. 111. 10 p.m. - \ 'riiiinilcr-stiiriii of miiisiial violence and sublimity.
, Sec Narrative.
y.;i(' ,, Ml. to l-f)() I 'riinnder luid lain . . . - .

'.'- 1- p.m. -

li a.m.
Sunset
1 1 a.m. I p.iii

S 10 p.iii
Nii;ht
Ni-ht

(i a.m.

II a.m.
10 p.m.

!) a.m.
'■'• l>'"

Ni(,'lit
1 1 p.m.

1- JMll.

Noon -
I p.m.
1 p.m.
f.:;o p.m.

I) p.m.

6 pin
Noon -

I liaiii all last night . . . •

I Kaiii North ot'Uu'Appelle, temp, at (i a.m. iH'.

i Heavy rain and llmnder ...

I Uain North of (iu'Appelle Valley.
Violent tlmnder-storin with heavy rniii nnil hail
Itaiii in torrents ....
Ilc.ivy tliiindcr-.storin with rain
'riiundcr-storin, heavy rain - ■• -

Heavy rain . - - . -

Violent tliuiider-.storin ...

Tliundcr-storni, rain and Iii^h wind -
Violent thunder-storm and rain

I'rairie I'ortage.

Ditto.

Ilail Woods.

liear's Head Hill.

Ditto.
Sandy Hills.

Little Sonris.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

(ireat I'rairie.
Ditto.

Assiiiiillioiiic.
I'ort Kllice.
Qu'.Viipelle Valley

Ditto.
Ditto.

(ia'.Vppclle.

Ditto.
Ditto.
j South ISruiicli.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Long Cr ek nnd Main

Saskntciiewan.
lAIaiii SaskatL'hcwan.
Ditto.

* See .Mvtvurulogy in its cunucxiuii \utli agriculture by rrofetsur Jobepli Henry.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOlllNd EXPEDITION.

137

•

Main
iviin.

Thfi progrPHS of iliinpH alFonlN ii very cxcollrnt imlicatinn of tlic direction and forni of prcviiilinf^windH,
Thu DKvil'H Ililln and the xund dunes surrounding timt drt'ury wiistc on the Assinniholne, in long. UU''4ii' W.,
nliowed It liure advancing surfuce towards the north-east, l)einj^ pushed in that direction by tlu' prevailing
Houth-west wind. The sand dunes at lint I leight of Land ni the (^u'Appelle Valley, in long. Kifi W.
lat. HI N., were advancing in an easterly direction ; their clean surfaces were facing the cast. Had they
progn^ssed under a prevailing south-west wind, they would long since have invaded and lilled ui) thu
Valley of the Qu'Appclle. These existing nu'ords of prevailing winds during the period when the duiu-s
arc not frozen, show that while the south-west is the most cil'cctive as a sununer surface wind in Uupert'si
Land under tlu> UOth meridian, on tltu iSouth liruuch of the Saskatchewan, hcvcu degrees further west,
westerly winds prevail.

There is no <lo\il)tthat the south-west I'acllic winds, passing -lOiiugh the liroad depression in the Rocky
Mountains near the •'.Uth parallel without losing tli" ,.lioiu oi' their moisture, ;;ive luimidity to the largo
portion of Rupert s Land over which they travcse.

The great plateau on which the RiH'ky M,)untain ranges rest has an average elevation of 4,000 feet
near the IJ'Jnd parallil of latitude, the lowest pass in the most easterly range being there "i," 17 feet above
the ocean. Along the ii.lth parallel the vertical section across the mountain system is of greater width
and elevation. 'I'lic mean height above th ■ ocean is aliout ■>,rpli(i feet, and the lowest pass 7,7 "lO feet.
Hetween the ;lSth and 4oth parallel the seci on has an elevation of 7,.'5o() feet, and the lowest pass is
lo,l).SiJ feet above the level of the sea. Ilenedh the parallel, of 47^ the base of the plateau is narrow,
and has an average altitude of ii,r)(ili feet, the "owest pass being 11,(144 feet aliovc- the ocean.* Within
British Territory, north of the 4!lth jiarallel the oasscs in ihe eastern riiiige are still lower. 'I'he recent
meiisnrcnu'nts by Captain I'alliser's Kxpeditiou s)iow that the height of the Kutanic Pass in latitude
W ;!(»' is nearly (>,()(i() feet above the sea level : the Kananaski I'ass ."i,!)S.'i feet, and the N'ennillion Pass,
traversed by Dr. Hector, in latitude ol lo' only 4,!)4 ' feet above the ocean.

The following table exhibits the elevation of the Roc ky Mountain plateau, and the height of the lowest
pussea abovo the ocean : —

Tahlk showing the Ei.kvatiom nnd nuKAOTii of the Plateau on which the ItocKV Mountain ranges rest,
iind the llnuiiri above tlie Ockan of the lowest Passks, from the 3'2iul parallel to the .jlst parallel north
latitude.

Hrcadtli anil Glcvation of Plateau between the 3'Jnil and 49lh Parallels.

3,000 and

4,0(X) and

.'•,000 niul

'i,000 and

7.(X)0 and

8,0110 and

<),000 and

4,(MK) feet.

.5,000 feet.

(i.llOO leer.

7,000 feet.

H.OOO feet.

i),00() Ccct.

10,000 luct.

.Miles.

Alile«.

.Mi lea.

.Miles.

;Milc.«.

.\lde».

.Milca.

32nd parallel

170

(iO

—

:i-)th „

\nr,

I no

;io:i

23.5

!I5

—

3Sth anil :i9tli parallel

1+3

7 '.'.5

'.'SI.

110

1.5.5

4 1st and V>m\ „ -

H>0

r,so

•JS.5

270

J 07

nth and UMlif „ ■

130

i)7

~~'

"""

—

binninit of the lowest passes above the Ocean troin the 32nd to the olst parallel, iiortli latitude : —

left.
5,717
7,472
10,032
8,372
(),044

f'oci- ^ I Passes discovered by Captain Palliscr's

4,944 J ''■''l'"''''"""4

32nd parallel

35tli „ ...

38th and 39tli parallel -

4 1 St and 42nd „

+7th and 49tli „

Kiitanio Pass, lat. 49° 30' -

Kaiianaskis Pass, north of 49th parallel

Vermillion Pass, lut. .'Jl" 10'

Not only has the depression in the Rocky Mountain range, north of the 47th parallel of latitude, a
remarkable effect upon the climate of the N'alley of the Saskatchewan, but its bearing imon means of
communication between the Atlantic and Pacific slopes of the Rocky Mountain ranges is ot the greatest
importance.

Seasons ok tiik Vai.i.kv of Lake Wixxii'Ei:.

The natural division of the seasons in the Lake Winnipeg N'alley is as follows : —

Sprinfl. — April and May.

Summer. — June, July, August, and part of September.

Autumn, — Part of September and October.

Winter. — November, December, January, February, and March.

'J he natUTid division of the seasons is sirik'ngly lepresented by the early and rapid advance of
teiniiera'.iMO in Mcy in the valley and prairies of the Saskatchewan"; and it is also indicated in a very
marked degi'ie b/ the extension northwards to the same valley, between ihe Oo" and lOo^ of longitude,
of uumcious plants, whose geographical distribution, east and west of those limits, has a inucli more
southern climatic boundary. The limits of trees rise with the isothermal lines, and these attain a. much
higher elevation in the interior of British America than on the Atlantic coust.§

* Dr. J, lli'ikry, IMt'U'orulugy in lis cDuni'iion witli agriculttiri'.
X Procccdiiigi of Ihe Uojial Gvugraphical Society, vol. iii., Nn. 5.

t l\ii-iltc railroad vxpluratiulis.
§ Ore)-.

138

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

; 1

'ii:

In rolntidn to agrlouUiiri', tlip intptisity of winter eiM in of comparatively little moment. The elevated
sprins and mirnmer teniporat\iri', combined with the humidity of the humid region in the Valley of Lake
Winiupeif, enable Indian corn and the melon to ripen with certainty, if ordinary care Is taken in selecting
soil and in planting seed.

The followiiiff table of the meteorology of Red River was published in my report for 18.')7. In the
absence of other information on thin subject it in iiiHcrted here, but it must be borne in mind that the
results of one year's conijmrisoii are not of much value in estimating the relative climatic adaptation _ of
rcjrions far ajiari ; nor do they all'ord Hutlicieut data for a fair estimate of the climate of the locality
where the observations were made. It is dimbtful in the nrcsent case whether the instrument woa cpiite
rclialile at low teiiipcratiiics. The ol)servatioiis at Red River were by Mr. Donald (iiimi.
CoMi'AKisoN of tlic .Mkteohoi,o(;y of Hko Uiver Sf.tti.kment with Tohonto, Canada West, with
rt'l'ci'ciicu to .Mean Toinpcmturc, Depth of Ituin, anil Snuw, frojii corresponding Obaurvatlun* at both
Statinnn, from June 18,55 to .May 185(i iiicluaivc.

Mean Tcmpcratiiro.

Rain in

Inches.

Snow In

1
Inchci, jTemperature : Rnin and

Month.

itcd n.

Toronto.

Itcd R.

Toronto.

Red K.

,, ' " " " '
Toronto, i

+ or — of Toronto.

185.5.
June
July-
Auh'ust

(i9 1()
71 If!
().'1()3

.59° 93

«7-i)5
(5+-(Hi

60
l'2-O
12-S

4-07
3 -'2+
1-4,5

0-0
00
0-0

0-0

Siimmrr,
Temperature + 3 -78.
lUin + 21 •74 inches.
Snow 0.

Summer

«7:(i

63 -98

30-5

8-76

0-0

.^->.>.,.- ' •'

Scptonibcr -
October
Nuvcinbcr -

.59-26
4'-' -20
'.'11!)

.59 --H)
+5-39

38 -.58

5-0
0-0
2-5

5 -.59
2-48
4 -.59

0-0
2-0
7-0

0-0
0-8
3-0

Aiitiimti.
Tcinperuturc — 6-94.
Iluin —5- 16 inches.
Snow + 5-2 inchci.

Autumn

to -88

1.7-82

-•,5

12-66

9-0

.1-8

December -
18,5H.
January
l'el>ruary

-S'31

-10-55
-1-71

L'f) ■ :»8

Ifi-O'J
1.5-(i9

00
(1-0

1-8.5
0-00

o-oo

8-0

5-0
6-0

■29 -5

13-6
9-7

Uiiiler.
TcnipiTuturc — 2(>- 12.

Uain — 1-85 inches.
Snow — .'18-8 inches.

Winter

-6-85

19 -.57

1 85

19-0

52-8

March

April

Mav-

i)'0;l
39-83
.58 -K)

23 -(Ki
■1-2 -27
.50 -.52

00
6-5
+ -0

0-(X)

2 -78
4 -.-.8

6-5
3-0
2

16-2

0-1

IllUp.

Spring.
Tenipeittture — 2-83.
Ituin -f 3- 14 inches.
Snow — 4-8 inche.«.

Spring

3,-; ■ 79

38-62

10-5

7 - 36

11-5

16-3

■•> f' ,. '

Annual

31. -38

I-'-'-. 50

.1-8-5

30-6.-}

39 .5

72-9

! - .' ;l.

An.nual.
Colder mean temperature ...

More rain .....

Leis snow .....

^fore moisture and most probably less evaporation

8-12

17-85 inches.
.43-4
14-53 „

At Quebec the ilifTcrcncc between the mean temperature of summer and winter Is 5;r-93, at Fort Snelling
S6'-'-81, ,ind at Red River Settlement 74''6!, according to the table above, which must be received with
caution.

The summer temperature of Red River, and the absence of frosts during that season, determine its fitnesi
for agricultural purposes. The following tabic exhibits a comparison, based upon one year's observation only,
between the summer temperature of the Settlement and various other well known places in Canada ; —
Summer temperature at Red River Settlement - - - 67-76

Montreal, Canada - - - - • - -66-62

Quebec .....-.- fj',^-91

Toronto - - - - - - - - 63-i)8

The extraordinary cold of th(! winter of 185.5 and 18.50 at Red River is shown by the tables for
December, .Fanuaiy, and l-'ebruary, (Mr. Gunn's obseri-ations,) which give a mean of -6°-8.'i for the
mean temperature of that season ; but if we turn to the records for 18.57 and 18.58,* wo find the mean
teiupeiature of that winter to have been 2° -87, showing a difl'erenee of eight degrees in favour of the
winter of 18.57—58. 'i'he temperatures recorded were as follows: —

18.5.5-.5fi. 18f)7-.58.

December .... - -8-31 - - 9- 11 ;^:

January ..... -10.5.5 - - 62

February .... - -1-71 - • . -6-68

Winter Mean

-6-8.5

2-87

* Mcleorological tables recorded by Mr, Dawion's party.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

VA9

The thermometcrH luppliml tu tho lied Hivor FApedition in IR/i? woru niudc by Ni'Kretti imd
/ainbra, iiiid wore of tiio \n'»t t'lniHtriuttion.* 'I'huy liud I>cimi roiiiimrod with ii Htundard at tlie
Proviiiuial OhHervatory, mid tlii'ir orrori* ivcoicIimI, hut it (Iik-h mil a|i|H>ar tiiat llic |irii|i(>r ('(irrcrtiiiiiii
woro made after oach ohHiTvation. Mr. (■iiiiii'!* thoriiiDiiiuter was an ordinary inittruincnti and, liku
many of itn cIiuih, liable tu urrors at low tcinpcratiiruM. It is tiicrefon-, tir(il)ablu that liiN uintur
tein|wraturvH aru tuu low, and that thu truu mean uf thu winter montlis at lleti liivcr, and euniiu(|utMitly
thu annual mu.in, may bo ('(niHiduraiily hi){iier than tiiey appear from his ol>servations.

The eold of February IH.'^H wait exeeptiimal. At iMontreal it was the coldest Feliruary mi record,
bviiiff H"'))!) below the mean temperature of February IH.77.t Ihit it cannot he denied tliat tlie winter
eold of Red Itivfc" m excessive, and the tempurature gometimes fails so low as to freeze mercury in a
few minuteH.

The Meteoroffical ReKister kept at the Stone Fort, Lower Settlement, in 1847, under the superin-
tendence of Captain Muudy,| from which extractti wore permitted to be made by Dr. Uwen, furnish
truHtworthy cvi<lcnca rciipeeting tho uevority uf tho climatu in winter.

The mean temperature fur January 1H47 was -X'J"'^!. Observations bein^ taken at a.m., 3 p.m.,
and !) p.m. During V2 coiiseeutive days uf this period, from the iJth tu the 'JUth inclugivo, the thernio-
inetor never once rose to zero, 'i'he h)wost teinporaturo reached was ~\H', the highest 3(1', givinij a
range of 7H°, On t!ie coldest day, the '.jiith, when the thermometer showed -Ax' at the Stone Foit,
and -47° at Fort Garry, mercury fro/.e in I.^ tu VD minutes when exposed in bullet moulds.

Although there is no record of ctdil terms in Canada approaching the extreme low tempeiature and
oxttMidiiig over so loiig a period as those instanced above, yet cold terms of great intensity are nut
uncummnn in Lower Canada. In the excellent observatory of Dr. Sniallwuod's at Isle Jcsud, nine miles
west uf Montreal, tho fulluwing records of eold lerius havi> liven preserved: — §

•«l —

Low TEMPEIlATUUEIi AT IgLE JesUS, C. E.

On the 'ifltul ami 'i'Ard Det. 18.54.

Om Me »M, \Oth, ami 1 Uh Jan. 1859.

9tli (5 a.m., '.'9"J below lero.

7 „ '-'9'0

9 „ ''H-i „j

1-2 „ '.'.'!• 8

2p.m.,'-'ir>

9 „ !W-9 „

10 „ S4'J
X'i „ .'!()•() „'

lOtli.— ()a.in., 4;)'(> „

7 „ 4.)-l

9 „ 4l-()
12 „ 20-1

'2 p.m., 14' !i „

9 „ 2H-8

10 „ '-'9".'

12 „ M-a

llth (Ja.ni„Mr-l „

7 „ 3*; -9
12 „ 2l-'8

'Jp.m., 19-9

9 „ 21
10 „ 21-6 „

12 „ 18-1

In January 1859 the thermometer did not rise above zero during a period of 124 hours 30 minutes,
or more than five days. Mercury froze in the open air. The mean temperature on the 9th was —
27°'8; loth,— 29''-0; llth,— 28'-2. Dr. Smallwund says that this cold term was felt generally
throughout Canada and the Eastern States, and seems to have travelled from the west.

The following minimum temperatures were observed at different places : —

22nd. — 8 a.m.

SI ■(> below icro.

!) „

10 „

19-1

11 „

17-8

12 „

lf>-6

1 p.m.

,12-1

2 „

1I-8

3 „

8-1

7 „

2.S-4

« ,.

26 '9

10 „

28-2

12 .,

34-8

83rJ 6 a.m.

30 '2

7 „

.%0

8 ..

34-3

10 „

24- 1

12 „

13-4

2 p.ni

,12C

4 „

6 „

12-ri

■ 10 „

Hoclicster

Urouklyn (New York)

noatun

Toronto -

Quebec -

Huntingdon

lO'O below zero.
9-0
140
38-0
4fl'l
44-0

* Thew lliermometcn, together with other meteorological tiiparattia, wcru furnished to the diflcrvnt members of the Uutl River
Eipudition in 1H,57. by thu penniHsioii of the 1U>t. Dr. Ujrcrson, Chief SuptriiiteiutfiU uf SchwiU, from the stock uf Instrumuiits
provided by the Chief Superintendent for observatories uttached tu the Grammar Si-huuls thruughuiit the rruvince. 'Hie thermometers
were compiired and their errors determined and tabulated at the Provincial Obsiervutory. A table uf errors was attached to each
initrumcnt.

f Uecorda of St. Martin's Obscrva'nry, Isle Jesus.

\ See Dr. Owen's Geological Sl jy of Wisconsin, Iowa, and Minnesota, page 181.

$ " Canadian Journal '* for XHit^. and " The CauaUiaa Naturalist " for April 1859.

s 2

140

IlKFOllTS Ol' THE ASSTNNIDOINK AND

For tho iiuiposi' of iiiiiipiiriiix (lie Mmitlily Mfuii ut Cjuobci' (lot. 40' 40' a", long. 71" 10) with
thoio of Hcil KiviT, tlii> fiillowiiitf titlilo i« iuiii'rtvd : — *

Mean.

Muximum.

Minimum.

IH.U.

OcdilicT

4fi'0.)

04-7

+ ;)!•(!

NohmiiIht

• - -

.'(I'H:)

51J'H

+ 100

Ucci'iiibtr

1H53.

ly()8

;iO(i

-19-S

.Jnmmry

l(i-70

ki'O

-140

I'lliniary

lO-.W

MO'H

— '2<l-5

Miircli

21 -M

47\'l

April

■MH

flO'H

«•(»

Moy

4<)0;J

8S()

:i2-o

Juno

m • :)+

HH'O

4;i'2

July

(iHH«j

!H)\S

5I!»

Aui{u«t

G\r,i

83'0

;tH-;i

Si'ptrlulH'r

5,5 ir.

Hl'It

;)4-7

OctolHT

4,5- m

2H'4.

Novriiilicr

2H-7,5

,')4'.i

21 HI

UcccmliLT

1Hj(>.

l»'01»

40' 1

-l!)-2

Janniiry

8-li)

27-0

-Uir,

l''il)ruiiry

llili)

•M''.>

-180

.Marili

17MiO

y!»()

-110

April

• ■ ■

•M-'M

S.i'.'l

(i-4

III till' alwi'iico of iiiftnimcntnl nli-iTvatinnn, llic projjn'ss of \ ('^rotation alVordH the lii-nt iiiilicatioii of
dimati'. apart IVi'iii latitiiili- ami ilcvatiiMi aliini' lln- "ca. It lias lu'oii oliscrveil (■Iscwlicro that tlicro
0NiNt> an ('\traoi(liiiaiy (litri'iciicc ln'twti'ii tlic cliaractcri-^tic tViiit tioc of the Smitli liraiicli, tlio
Misaskatoniiiia l.\iiiitiiiii-/iiir('iiiiiiiliii.tis), and the ^ainc tree mi llir Noitli Hraiich nf the SaHkatclicwan.
Oil till' Sontli liiaiu li al the I'llliow, and li>r 4i) miles iluwii tlic iImt, this slnnli attains an altitude of
20 feet, with a stem fully three and three and a half iiiehes throuuli : the fruit is large and very jiiii'V ;
the si/e of the lien-y tlieiv is ofjual to the lurjje«t Mack eiirraiif, resenihlin); n small j,'iape more tliiiii any
other fruit.

The iM'iiod of Howerini; and fniitiii;r is ahoiit three weeks earlier in latitude ."il" than hetwei'ii the
.'■):lrd and 'illli ii.nallels we-t of the liiltli ile^'ree of loi|i;iliicle. 'I'lie (irairies of the Assinnihoiiie, of the
{ju'Appelie, and of the Soiitli liraiicii of the Klliow are decoialed with hrilliant spriiifr lloweis, and
eipM'ied \villi liiMiriint herliafre, at a lime ulieii the ire still lingers at the head of Lake Winnipeg, or
chilli the ail anil arrests vcgetatiipii in ( edar and ( 'ross Lakes on the Main SasUalrhewaii. Two and a
half degrees until 'if ('niiilierland the soil is permaneiitlv frozen three feet lielow the siiiface. Sir
Jdhn li'iiharilson relates that in !>>'il he did not disengage his ranoes I'roiii the ice at the upper end of
Lake Winnipeg until tlie '.'th of June. Al the Touchwood Mills hur-es are allowed to remain in the
open air all the winter, linding siillirient pasture under the snow to keep them in good eoiidilion. (See
page Tsi for a slmrl desi riptioii of the winter eliiiiale at the Toiiclnmnd Hills.)

The growth of forests is very inlimately eonnected with the eliiiiate of a large extent of country.
That foK -t- •Piice covereil a vast area in Kiipert's Laud there is no reason to doiiht. Not only do the
tradition- of the ii itives refer to former forests, hut the remains of iiiuny Htill exist as detached groves in
secluded \ alleys, or on llii' < rests of hills, or in the form of hlackeiied prostrated triinkN covered with rich
grass and >oiiictinies with vegetahle mould or drifted Hand. The agent which has caused the destruction
of the ioie>t~ whicii om e covered many parts of the prairies in Uiipert's Land is undoubtedly tire, and
the «aiiie >wift and effectual destroyer prevents the new growth from ac(|uiriiig dimensions which would
eiialile it to check their annual progress. Nearly everywhere, with the exception of the treeless, arid
jirairie wot of the Soiiris, and west of Long Lake on the north side of the Ou'Appelle, young willowa
and a.-peii- were showing themselves where (ire had not been on the previoun year. South of the
Assinnihoiiic and QiiWppclle few iilains had escaiicd the eotitlagration in IHri", and the hlackened sliootti
of willow were visible as Inishes, cliimiis, or wide-spreading thickets where the fire had passed.

The end or tail of the prairies is at Fort Liard. a short distance to the south of Kort .Simpson (lat.
or ol' 7" N.). There is a long high belt of prairie land whicli runs us far as the iieighhourhood of
that locality, at the foot of the llocky Mountanis.t

In the state of Mi>-(imi forests have sprung up with wonderful rapidity on the prairies as the country
beioiiic-. >etlled >o as to resist and subdue the encroachment of the annual fires from the west. Missouri
lies within the limit of the humid south-west wind coming un the Valley of the Mississippi, and enjoys a
greater rainfall than the region west of the 100th degree of longitude.

* St'f ** rnnadiiin Journal *' — OliI Herios.

t C'ul. lA'fruy. — Kvidvniu ticforo lliv JSilvct Conimitteii of tlw Houm of ConimoiM.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

141

April 1.

„ 'A
., 4.

H.
I).

17.
lU.
'J\

OrNKn.M. CiiAHAi'TKii of the Skahonk on the .Main Sankati'Hkwan'i Kant uf Carlton Huumk.

Thi> fiil|(iwin)( tahlc's will nerve to sliuw the Kuiicral uhuructi'r of the aviwunt at importuiit puiiiti in the
Vttlloy ol Lnko \Viiinipc>){ :

EietrarUfrom a Jonnml kqtt at " Fori A In Cnme" on the Main Snukakhtrntn, Lnt nS'tiO, t.onij, 104'S0.

No frnxt lu«t night, hut tlllck iniHt thiM morninf(. 'i'hc wuutliur \\m huen warnii ultlioiif^li

clouily.
iliird t'roMt liiHt ni|<lit, hut mild iliiriiii; tlm diiy.
Slijjlit I'roHt liiMt nixht, diiy vory mihL .Snuw diHuolvud a great deiil during the day. Water

niukiiig ilH appearunco on edge of river.
Froze hind liiitt night, and huH l)eeii eold moHt of the day.

Do. do. no thaw during the day. River riaing very much, and hoat frozen in.
lee iniide a Htart previous to moving.
Weiilher warm, iee drii'ting down river.

Weather fiiu'. Annual goonu daneo of MuLood took p'li i to-doy.
Uain wiiii N.W. wind.
V.S Had good fall ni'Hiiow during night. Continued xiiowing without interniiMxion the whole day<

Netn net lor fliHt time. One Hturgeon, ten suekern, and oiu( golil-eye caught.
'J.'!. Hard froHt last night.

Sid. Weather fnie, conitiderahle (piantity of ice in river, hut melting fuHf.
1. Wealher warm. Change perceived on treeB, they are guUing u little i/rttii.
i, Woiking in gnrden ; put down peoit, onionn, rudiiih, and a few greiMm. Net produced two

sturgeon,
fi. Weather warm.

10. Stoim of Hnow and rain during lost night, with a ntrong north wind, whicii continued at
iiUevvals during the day.

Vi. I'lanted north tieUI with potatoen, and ploughed Houth field.

la. Cloudy, rain, with N.W. wind. I'lanted potatoes in nouth garden.

1 1. Cohl luirth wind. Sowed lour l)edn of Swedinh turnipH.
Sil. 'I'huudcr and lightning nioHt of hut night. liaiu poured down in torientx. Uiver rose eon-

8idcral>ly to-day.
Saskatchewan 111 i,','ade arrived thin afternoon. Started name evening.
Clear and lieautiiiil to-day.
Uaining all day, uiiiil eaxt.

Clear, liut riitlier cold. Slij^ht frost hint night. Wind N.l'« (liglit.)
Mild and waiin during day. Slight frost last night.
Raining all morning, wind W. Cleared up in tlie afternoon. Men in morning cleared all

the initiilit stalks out of north garden, and in afternoun coniiiieneed again the potatoea

in south garileii.
S.W. wind. Kail boats started this morning for Carlton.
I'liic weather, men einploycd in garden.
I )o. dii. putting dung in garileii.
N'cry hiird frost over night.
Severe frost last night.

Sninved during iiiglit, Init thawed an it fell. Hlowing very hard.
River full of ice.
Weather line. One cow calved.

Slight fall of snow last night, hut day remarkably line.
Weather line, not in the leiust cold. Have hail no cidd weather as yet, cotnpared to las t

year.
Weather colder than of late.
.S|i|;lit fall of .snow during night.
Verv cold.
Cold very severe.
Snowing most of the day.

May
>i

„ .in.

.lune I.

Sept. 1(1.

„ 17.

„ 5iO.

Oct. '.'.

17.

IS.

'J.t.
•jc.
11.
Hi.
HI.

Nov.

,, '^■

n •'•
„ 11.
» I'A

„ ai.
isr.v.

Jan. 'J.

„ 3.
Mai. 2!».

„ 30.

,, SI.
April 2.

Cold, and snowing ut intervals.

Very cohl.

Hard frost htst night.

Very wann; enow melting nhout the fort.

Raining during the night. Slight rain during the day.

North wind, and cold. No thaw these three days hack.

3. North wind, and very cold.

4. North wind.

.'). Weather milder ; a slight thaw.
f>. South w ind ; thawing a great deal.

f. Hard frost last night; cold all day. North-west wind, accompanied with snow, which con-
tinued most of the day.
S). Snowed last night ; cold during day. Water appearing on edges of river.

At this time last year ice started in river. What a ditt'erence this year. We cannot go
anywhere at present without snow shoes. Our cattle arc nearly starved ; they cannot
go aliout, as the snow is so hard.
10. Weather still cold ; wind variable.
Ill Storm of snow and wind.

It*

148.

1857.

April

12.

)»

13.

)»

14.

Ij.

»)

16.

»»

17.

»>

18.

»>

19.

»!

«().

>»

21.

22.

28.

»»

24.

2,^

27.

»»

28.

• »»

29.

»>

30.

May

*'•

12.

15.

18.

»)

20.

21.

June

»»

( •

*J.

»>

15.

3U.

1858.

Apri

20.

»»

21.

»j

22.

»»

24.

25.

»j

27.

)»

2.'*.

May

I»

11.

«)

12.

1.5.

17.

)»

18.

19.

20.

)»

21.

22.

»)

23.

1»

24.

June

))

i»

15.

July

10.

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Hard frost last night. Cold all day. No thaw.

Hl(>\viii<r hard, aci'oinpaniod with snow. Day fine and snow dissolving. 'I'urncd very stormy

in the afternoon. North wind with snow.
Still cold. North whid. No thaw. '*''

tjouthorly wind, but still cold. River still rising at edges. Little or no thaw during day.
Weather dear, but still cold. Little or no thaw. Notwithstanding the late cold weather the

ice went off this day.
Weather same. Very little ice drifting down river. :: 'i i" '» J'!' 'i"' i» ". ^ •' '■ =
Weather still cold. North wind.

Fine during day. Sun shining bright. Snow melted a good deal.
Day tine, but weather turned cold towards evening. Had a slight fall of snow last night,
lioautiful day. Snow dissolving fast. Little or no ice drifYing. ^ :.jj'..m

Cloudy and variable, very little thaw. '"' "*' ''*^

Strong south wind. Thawing very much. '*'

Snowed without intermission the whole day. Wind variable and blowing hard, "^ ' '; •;•
Beautiful day. Warnu'st we have had this season.
Cloudy and cold, with slight snow.
Weather fine and warm.

Cold and cloudy. Slight snow. .i.r:;'' .14^-. i; ::"'■ i •>'■•.<■'<' !.».■

Beautiful day, but blowing hard.

Weather and wind from sanu- <|uarter. Snow dissolving fast.
Ice (lriftin>; all last night, but not much to-day.

Disagreeable day. Snowing without intermission with a cold north wind.
.Stormy northerly wind, and very cold.
Weather warm. Yesterday planted potatoes and onions in south garden, and to-day sowed

cabbages in boxes.
Mild, wTnd south. ' ■ <':,«••[ ri'^^'-^ •''"; >'>'f- !•■ -'iru": . •' ..

Boisterous weather.
Beautiful day. All hands employed planting potatoes. Sowed turnips, carrots, beans, Sic,

Nets caught three sturgeon and nine suckers.
Very wann. Animal goose dance came off.

Hard frost last night. Froze my beans, and tlie hops were affected also.
Rained hard all last night, and contimicd without intermission all day. ' •- ■■
l''ine weather, river still risin^r.
Very warm and clear this afternoon.
Beautiful day. Bull dogs so numerous that horses had to be put in stable and grass cut for

thcni. Stiirvation is staring the people in the face. Have caught no sturgeon for some

time back. Our nets produced nothing to-day.

I-

:■/:.<■ ■■■:■■

River full of ice.

21.

In the
combined

Warm and clear, south wind.

Ice drifting in river. Large quantity of ice on banks. . . v v

Cold north wind.

Slight fall of snow in morning, Rain towards sunset Still cold, wind south-west.

Warm aiul fine to-day.

.South wind. Wannest day this spring. i

North wind. Cold and blowing hard.

South wind. Wann. Sky overcast with smoke. Large fire close to fort. Clearing up north

garden.
Set f'cmr men to dig potatoe ground in south garden. Caught one sturgeon — first this spring.
Cold north wind. Cut the potatoes for plantuig.
Planted potatoes in south field, and commenced to dig the north field for sowing. Sowed

beetroot, radish, and lettuce.
South wind. Weather cold. Planted north garden with potatoes. - ' .••

.Still cold. Slight fall of snow in night.

Wind from north, and cold. Think we are going to have a second winter. <

('ontinues cold. Wiml mirth.
Weather improving. Wind south-west

Warm and mild. .South wind.

Warm and tine.

Warm in morning. Tlnmder and rain towards sunset.

Warm. V\'ind south. Clearing up garden. River muddy, and water rising fast.

Wiiul south, and weather warm.

Wind north, and appearance uf cold, 'lliink we are going to have a cold summer. Gardea

herlis slow in maKuig their appearance above ground.
Weather continues warm.
Boisterous weather. Wind north.
Very warm to-da^. Bull dogs so numerous, horses and cattle had to be kept in stable all

day. Men hocmg soutli garden.
A very fine day.

.-.JaW

■:<, iJ J

folic

the

Seasons at Cumberlani> House.

. ._-Xr,.": v LVi'\ ' ■•ib

owing table of phenomena, iiulicating tS\e proifreu of the sttunns at Cumberland //(
observations uf Sir J, Richardson, iu the spring of 1820, with those of chief fau

'nute, are
factor John

« '6

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

143

rmy

tho

ice.
wed

tfor
onio

arth
ing.

WL'd

den

all

Leo Lewis, in 1839 and 1840, distinguishing the remarks hy the years. Tlio supposed altitude of
Cumberland House above the sea is 900 feet, according to Colonel Lefroy's calculations.*
Mar. 4. Water collecting in pools round the establishment 1840. ' '•','''■ - ••■

„ 7. Much bare ground visible.
„ 8. The snow, which covered the ground to the depth of three feet, was observed to moisten in the

sun for the first time this season. 1820.
„ 12. Temperature in the shade rose for the first time to + 80° F. The melting snow began to

drop from the eaves of the houses.
„ 21. Patches of earth became visible, the season being in respect to the melting of the snow
14 days later than that of 1840. The River iSaskat(;hewan broke up jiartially, the molting
snow covered with pmlurti; as it is also frciiuently in the aut\imn.
„ 24. A white-headed eagle was seen, this being almost always the first of the summer birds which
arrives; it comes as soon as it can obtain fish. In IMtO the first eagle was seen on tlie26tli.
April 2. The River Saskatchewan froze over again, after some very cokl days.
„ 7. Harking crows (Coreia Ameriaimis) seen. They were not observed till the 19th in 1840.
„ 8. First snow bunting seen (Emberiza nivalis). 1840.
„ 9. A merganser seen. 1820.
„ 10. Willow catkins beginning to burst.
,. 12. Geese and swans seen in 1820. In 1840 they were not seen till the 20th; and pelicans and

ducks were observed that year on the 21st
„ 13. Buds of I'opnlua hiilmmifera bursting. 1820.
„ 1". Plovers, graklcs, and orioles seen, and on the following day Canadian jays and Hy-cutchers.

Frogs croaking.
„ 20. (^oltsioot (Sardosmiii iiuhnat(t) flowering.

„ 2(». Alder flowering. The sugar harvest, which is collected in this district from the Neiiuiulo
friuijiiftilinm, commenced in IX'.'O on the 2()tb of this month, and lasted till the lOtb of May.
'l"be flow of the sap is greatly infliienccd by the direct action of the sun, and is greatest
when a smart night's frost is succeeded by a warm sun-shining day. The flow ceases in a
cold night.
,, 28. llie Saskatchewan thoroughly broken up. The ice on Pine Island Lake did not disappear
until nearly a month afterwiinl. Wablcnberg observes that the mean tcnipiraturc of the
air in Laplaml must rise to 40' K. l)efore the rivers arc completely free. The SaskatcbcHan
opens in tliis district before the mean heat for 10 days rises so higli; but its upper part
flows from a more southerly and warmer, though a more elevated country.
„ 30. Commenced ploughing. 1840.
May 1. AiifiiKiiie /Hitciis, or wind flower, in blossom; its leaves not yet expanded. 1820.
„ 2. A fall of snow to the depth of two feet. 1840.
„ 13. Planting potatoes.

„ 14. Sowing barley. 1820. Ae'/undofrnxiiiifotiitni and gooseberry bushes in flower.
„ 17. Willows, gooseberries, a.spens ( A'()/)«/m.v ?/r;Hu/()((/c.v) in leaf. Various ZJraAtf in flower. 1820.

In 1840 the trees were liurstuit; their buds at this time.
„ 17. Wieat sown on the 8th of this month above ground to-day, having germinated in nine

days. 1840.
„ 21. Barley sown on the 14th alwve ground, having taken seven days to germinate.
„ 22. Leaves of tiie trees expanding rapidly.
I'lmim Anieriftina flowered. 1820.

Pine Island Lake clear of ice. 28th. Priiiim iHtiim/lvanica, /'. vin/iiiiaim, and Amelanchier
in flower. Sotli. From the 23rd Ui the ;«Otb of this month, in 1840, the tem|»erature in the
shade at 2 n.m. varied between 78" and U3" F. On the 3otli potatoes planted on the 13th
appeared above the ground. 1840.
All the forest trees in full leaf. 1820.

Conmienccd reaping barley. On the ITith, 18th, 19tli, and September 1, the tliennonicter at
noon ranged between 80 and 90°, being the hottest days in tho niontli. There was nnich
thunder and hail on thes<> days. 1 H;!9.
2. Flocksof water-fowl beginning to arrive from the north. ,

„ 3. The first fall of snow tins aiitunni.
„ 4. Vast numlK>rs of water-fowl flying southward. A seven?

causes these birds to hurry to the south.
„ 11. First hoar-frost. Birch ami aspen leaves turning yellow.
„ 14. Wild fowl numerous.
„ 20. Snow.

„ 21. Ditto very heavy. . ^ , .., .,^ „,. , . , >

„ 24. 'lliunder and lightning. ,.. ,j, ;,•','_ ..''■..
Oct. 1. Taking up potatoes, i,. .

„ 5, Leaves all fallen from the deciduous trees.

„ 11. The thermometer at 2 p.m., in the shade, 68° F., being unusually high.
„ 14. Water-fowl passing .southward in large flocks. 1839. , . . ;.

„ li). Bays of the lake frozen over.
„ 16. The ground frozen hard. '■,,!■■ ■•

„ 17. Last water-fowl seen this season.

„ 18. Lake entirely frozen over. In 1839 the Little River was frozen over on the 24th of this month,

but broke up again in part, and remained partially open all tho winter.
„ 31. Waveys {Ainu liy/Mrlwrea) passing. Lake partially open.

24.
25.

June

Aug.

Sept.

12.
1.

■11 of snow and frost in the north

arc
[>hu

Arctic Sewchiiig EipiKlliioii.

« 4

Sir Juhii Ricbwilioii.

144

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Seasons at Cahlton Hodsk.*

The foUowinif are the phenomena of the spriwi of 1827 at Carlton Ifotue, in lat 52° 51' N.,
ong. 10G° 13' W., on the etistcrn limits uf the Saskatchewan prairie lands, and at an elevation above
the sea of about 1,100 feet.

Feb. 15. Snow thawing in the sunshine, and on the 17th many sandy hummocks on the plains were
bare. Tiiis is at least three weeks earlirr than the thaw commences in an early season at
Curaberliind House, which is a degree further norlh, but is 200 feet lower.
March G. Trees thawed in tine days, and on the 8th the blattk earth on the immediate banks of the
river was softencil to the depth of two inches by the power of the sun's rays. At tiiis
place tlie westerly winds bring mild weather, and the easterly ones are attended by fog
and snow.
13. Sparrow-hawks (Falco xparreriiis) arrived from the south, and on the 17th several migratory
small l)irds were noticed.
„ 29. Large flocks of snow-birds (Einberiza nivnlii) came about the establishment; tnd by the 31 st
steep banks, which had a southern aspect, were clear of snow.
April 1. Many /WHiHV/irffl! (birds of the sparrow tribe) were seen. On the 2nd swans arrived, and by
the 3rd niuch snow had disappeared from the plains.
„ 4. The snow at this time was melting in the shmie, and the sap of the maple trees {Neyundo

fraxinifoUuni) began to flow.
„ G. (rcese arrive<l. .stormy weather, about the middle of the month, rctanlod the arrival of the
summer birds; but the plants continued t'j gn>w fast. On the 20th the Telltale plover
(Chariidriiis voeiferiis) and several small birds caine.
„ 22. Tiirtliis mii/riifuriii.1, I'/ii/rrhiila liiilariciaiui, and Lanius eieiibitor were seen, and the flowers

of Anemone pntens expanded.
„ 27. Ice in the Itivcr .Saskatchewan gave way. Frogs began Jo croak.
„ 28. Canada cranes {(Irm Canadensis) arrived.
May 1. Sliirniu hidnvicianns arrived, and the last flocks of Kmheriza niualii departed for the north.
„ 2. On this day Irteriin phnmireiis and Scoterophar/ii» ferruz/inettit were seen, and most of the watcr-

fowl hail l)y this time arrived. On the Ith J'ltlox IiihhIH flowered.
„ ">. Kanunndim rlwmboideus, Vinln de/iilin, Adrdomiia p(dtnata, and several carices flowered.
„ 6. Iliriindo viridis and many gulls arrived.

„ 7. On this day the sjip of the ash-leaved maple, which ha<l flowed scantily for 10 days, ceased

to run altogether, and the sugar harvest closed. Avocetta Americana arrived. I'opuliu

fremidoiilrs in flower.

„ 9. Crow-blackbirds were first seen, ('orj/didis niireii, Cori/liis Ainerieiiiui and rostratn, Ilippophae

Canadensis, ThiTmopsis rhiimljifolia, Vesieiirid urctica, and AInux viridis flowered. 12tli.

PotentiUu eonciiina, Townsendiu sericea iloucrcd. 14tli. (looselwrry bushes coming into leaf.

Ash-leaved maple flowering seven days alter the sap had cciised to flow from wounds in the

stem. Kith. 'Ihe /'i'c»« rorifii arrived in considerable numbers, and on the lUth the VioUi

nnttalliana flowered.

The average antecedence of spring phenomena at Carlton House to their occurrence at Cumberland

House is l)etween a fortnight and three weeks. The ditt'erence of latitude, which is only one degree, is

nearly c(iuntcrl)alanced by 2tH) feet of greater altitude ; but the dry, sandy soil of the plains, wliicli are

early denuded of snow, gives the spring there a great superiority over that of the lower country, where

the ground is almost submerged, and the greater part of it icc-liound for a month after the river is open.

SkASONS at RkD RlVKU.

On the progreis of the Seasons and state of the Weather at Jled River Settlement, from lit June 1855

to SUt May 1856.

1855. June 5th was the coldest day in the montl . Thermometer, 7 a.m., ."iS; 2 p.m., 63: 9 p.m., .'ifi.
The 14th was the hottest day. Thermometer, 7 .m., 72 ; 2 p.m., 88 ; 9 p.m., 71. 3 inches of rain fell
on the 17th, 1 on the 19th, and 6 on the 25th.

July 2nd was the coldest. Tliermometen 7 a.m., 56; 2 p.m., 78; 9 p.m., 68; light rain. The 'i5th
was the hottest day. 7 a.m., 87 ; 2 p.m., 92; 9 p.m., 82. 7thr rain 33 inches, loth, ram j| inches. 'J'hunder-
stonn on the 17th, rain 3 inches. 2fith, 1 inch rain ; 29th, 3 inches rain; 'M)l\\, 2 inches; totid 14i inches.
Wheat out of the ear. On the 12th hay-cutting commenced. Tabani and mosquitoes very niuneious
and troublesome.

August — (.oldest day, 29th. Thermometer, 7 lum., 44 ; 1 p.m., 08; !l p.m., 56. The hottest day
w.is tlie 5tli. 7 a.m., 07; 2 p.m., 8(J; 9 p.m., 70. On the 8th, h inches of rain fell; llth, .'i^ inches
fell ; 14tli, 2 inches; 27th, \ mch; total, 12^ inches. Barley harvest commcnce<l about the Ist; wheat
harvest on the 15th. Slight frost on the 30th.

September. — The coldest day was the 30th. Thermometer average -f 48. The hottest day was the
5th; thermometer, 7 a.m., 70; 2 p.m., 80; 9 p.m., 70. Total of rain during the month, 6^ inches.
Finished storing wheat on the 8th. A few leaves falling. 26th, grey geese flying to the soufli.

October. — The warmest day was the I at. Tliermometer, 7 a.m., 56; 2 p.m., 70; f. p.m., 58. Some
snow fell on the 4th. Taking up potatoes on the 8th. Wliite geese flying to the south, and continued
to do so up to the 20th, and a few flocks later than that; a'l the larger kmd of ducks leave about the
same time. 'I'lie deciduous trees are bare of leaves, except the oak. and some of the hardier kinds.

November. — The 2nd was the warmest day. Thermometer, 7 a.m., 32 ; 2 p.m., 38 ; 9 p.m., 36 ;
2i inches rain fell on the 3rd; 5 iiu-hes of snow fell on the llth; 12tli, river covered over with ice. The
coldest <lay of the month was the 21st; thermometer, 7 a.m., — 12; 2 p.m., -f- 8 ; 9 p.m., + 0. Warm
weather from the 21st to the end of the month. 7 inches oif snow fell during the month. Flocks of
snow birds have made their appearance from the nortli, and all the summer birds are gone.

* Arctic SMicbing Eiiicditian. Sir Jsbn Hi dn rdwn.

sa;" 51' N.,

Uion above

ilnins were
I season at

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

145

December. — The warmest day was the 6tli. Thermometer, 7 a.m., + S2 ; 2 p.m., + 26 ; p.m., + 30.
The coldest day was the 24th ; thermometer, 7 a.m., — 48 ; 2 ]).m., — 30 ; 9 p.m., - 40. We had
six days of very cold weather, including the 2:ird and 28tii. The wind blow fr im the r. )rth durin<f
three ilays before the severe m\i\ btgan; during its continuance there was very little wii d, and for two
of the coldest days it was at the south. H inches of snow fell.

1S5G, .lanuary. — The wannest day was the 17tli. Thermometer, 7 a.m., + .0: 2 p.m., + 22;
9 p.m. + 10. 'I'he coldest was the Ttli ; thermometer, 7 a.m., — ;>6; 2 i).m. 2fi ; p.m. — 3ii. ") inches
of snow fell. The average cold for thii month has not Iven groat; very little wind.

February. — Coldest fliiy the 2nd.' Tlierniometcr, 7 a.m., — 36; 2 p.m., — 20; 9 p.m., — 34. The
warmest day was the2()th; thermometer, 7 a.m., + 26; 2 p.m., + 35; !i p.m., + 24. 6 inches ■ f ?now
fell. After the 12th spirits of wine in the glass stood with few exceptions above zero, and tiic weather
has been pic isnnt.

Marcii.— Tlio coldest <lay was the 8th ; 7 a.m., — SI'; 2 p.m., 24: 9 p.m., — 26. The winniest day
was on the 22nd. Thermometer, 7 a.ni., + 28; 2 p.m., ; 38; ;; p.m., + 34. The tliernionicter fell
<luring the night a few degrees below zero; but on the whole the weather was pleasant ; <ii inches of
snow fell. Much of the snow nu'ltcd during the nuintli. Harking crows niade their appearance
about the 20th.

Ajiril. — (Jeese nuide their ni)|iearance on the 2nd, and the snow birds left ns for the north. The I2th
was the coldest day this month. Thorinoi icter, 7 a.m., + 16; 2 p.m., +30; li p.m., +24. Warmest
day, 23rd; thermometer, 7 a.m., + 46; 2 p.m., + 6(); !i ji.ni., + 44. Al)out 6 inches of snow and .">
of Vain fell. On the 1 Otli the rain began to throw otV its winter I'oat ; clear of ice on the 2oth. .Sturgeon
taken in the river in great numtiers; the snow all away. Wild fosvl to l)e seen in every direction on the
29tli, and sowing wheat commenced.

May. — The colde.-t day, 11th. Thermometer, 7, a.m., + ;i4; 2 i).m., ->,■ 43; './ p.m., + 3o. The
warmest day was the 18tb, 7 a.m., + 7.'>; 2 p.ni., + 84; 9 p.m., + .'56; 4 inches rain fell on t!'e 2i!th.
On the 4th whip-piior-will lu'gan bis serenade.*, Tlu- wheat sown on the 29tbbas germinated, jaul givcii
a green appearance to the tiehl. On the 9tli wild geese aliundant in the plains; nniple in leaf;
gooseberry hushes the samo; finished sowing wheat on the loth.

18,'jr.. Wheat sown in the beginning of .May ,vas in the ear on the l:!th Jnlv, and ripe on the 20th
August. The wheat sown on the 29tl; April was ripe on the 1 tth August. Tlie hottest day this last
summer was the 2()th of .Iidy Jlarley harvest commenced in July; finished cutting wheat du the 28th
August; slight frost dU the 30tli of the same month; potatoes taken up lirst week of October.

(lib September.- riocks of grey geese Hying to the soutii. I'liiims Amrririiiin ripe and very idcntilul
in the lirsl part of this uioutb, or rather lieloie this mouth. Kl'iiks of pnsseuger piucoiis arc in iVoni the
north, and h-ave finui ll. ' Olh to the last of t!ie uiorith. ( )u tli' night of tiie 7tli wbip-poor-will gave
Us Ills parting song. ''"/ •■« luciilns enter the ii\er to spawn. 'I lie Coiyi/oiiii.s til/ms in Lake Wiiniipeg
connnenies -pawning :u > i ' oth of Octolier, and ends about the 1st Novemlier.

This register WHS kei Donald (inini, of the Lower .">ettl(Mnent, Wed Hiver. For the details

of the register see the : ■ ; Iteport for 18.J7.

(ii'M-.iiM. Cm \!t \( ri i( or riii l!r.(;ici\ Wisr oi riir. 98iii Mi;iiini.', s i\ rirr.

IMn i> .Sr.\ri.s.

Very great misiipiirelicnsion has |irevailcd with regard to the region wi'sl of the Mi-sissip|ii, as well
as of the \alley diaiucd by the .Siskatihewan. Sanguine i ..thusiMsts have laid out new states and
territories on the broati map of the I'Vdcraliou, and pi-. -.pled thcui in imagination with bustling,
industrious, and wealtliy couunuuitics. Other visionaries have ccniverti'il the 4oi>,ii()0 si|uare ni'les drained
by tin' Saskatchewan into a region of nnbouniled fertility anil inc\li,Mistilile rc.-onrc'es. Wberciis, a
iiroper apjireciiition and use of tacts will convince tiie niu-t -anguine tiiit the l.ugcr iiortion of this area
IS, in its present stall', unlit for the perniam'nt habitation of n:au, both on account of idiniate, soil," and
absence of fuel.

The candid opinion of Profess!"- .loscpli Henry regarding the .•ulMpt:ition of a large portion of the
I'nited States for .scttlenu nt has been already gi\en ; it is continued and strcngtiieneil liy tiie follow ing
excellent snunnary from the pen of .Major I'.niory, of the I'nited .'^tiites and Mcxiciui lionndary
Conunission. It will at once orcnr to the re;nlcr that a knowledge of these facts give- great additional
value tc the truly fertile valleys of Ited Itiver, tiie '.ssinuibdiue. p:n't of the <^>n'.\piielle, and portions
of the South and North liiancb of the Saskat''hcw:.n.t It detirnnnes also the tiireciion in which cll'orts
should be made to p' opie this gre.it wildeincs.s, and guide the ]>rogicss of settlciiienf in such a manner
as will render the country available for that grand desideratum, a route across the continent :

"In the fanciful and exaggerated de-ciiplion given by many of the character of the western half of
the continent, some have no doubt been intluenccd by a desire to favour particular route-, of travel liir
the emigrants to follow; others by a desire to coimiiend tbcniselves to the political favour of those
iuterestod in the settlement and side td'llie lands; lint niucli tiie greater portion by csliinatiug the soil
alone, wbiih is generally good, without giving due weiglit to the infreipieucy of rains, or the absence
of the necessary humidity in the atmospheie, to produce a profitable vegetation, lint, lie the motive
what it may, the influence bus been equally unfortunate by ilirecting legislation and the military
o( 'upatiou of the country, as if it were snsceiitible <if continuous scttlenicnt from the peaks of the
Alleghanies to the shores of the Pacific.

" llypothctic.d geography has proceeded far enough in the LFiuted States. In no country has it
been carried to such an extent, or been attended witli more disastrous cnnsei|uences. 'I'bis pernicious
system was commenced under the eminent auspices of Haron Humboldt, who, from a few excur^ion9

* .S,i. ■' Co'tnccoun Series. " Cii'«I{>(:icnI Itrpnrt.

t Sir Priliiniiiary Krrurl for urc.i olcnltivitble land.

146

RKFOKTS OF th:: assinniboine and

into Mexico, attptnutiHl to figure tiio whole Nnrtii American continent. It lias been foUoweil !)y
iiiitividi.'ils to cuiTy out olijccts of their own. In this way it has conic to jmss, that, with no other
ovidencp than that I'lirnishcii l)y a party of persona travelling on mule back, at the top of their speed,
across the continent ; the opinion of tlie conntry has been held in suspense upon the sulijoct of the
proper route for a i-ailway, and even a preference created in the public mind in favour of a route which
actual survey has denioii'strated to be the most iminacticable of all the routes between the 4'.itli and
Itiiiiil parallels of latitude. On the same kind of unsubstantial information maps of the whole continent
liiivc been ]iroduced and eiij;ravcd in the hiifhcst style of art, ar I sent forth to receive the patruiia|re
of Coiipros, and the applause of jico^rapliical societies at home and abroad, while the substantial
contriliutors to accurate !jeiij;ra|ihy have seen their works pilfered and distorted, and tlieniselves
overlooked and forfjottcn. » ' ♦

" Tlie plains or basins which I have desi lilicd as occurriiif; in the mountain system are not the
(ircat I'laiiis of North Aiuciica which arc referred to so often in the newspaper literature of the
day, in the cxpressinns. • News from the I'laius,' ' Indian Dcprcdaliniis on the Plains,' \-c.

•' I'lic term ' I'laius " is applied lo the extensive inclined surface rcachinif from the liase of the
Itocky Mountain- to the shores <if the (iidf of Mexic i and the valley of the Mississippi, and form a
I'ealui'c in the <jfcoi;rapliv ot the wcslcm couulry as D/oilde as any other. Kxiept on the borders of the
strcaiiis which traverse the plains in their comsc to tin- valley of the Mississi])pi scarcely anythiiif;
exists descrvinu' the name of vcgctatiHU. The sdil is iiuiiposcd of (lisintettralcd rocks, (■ovcrc<l by a

i in tbickne>

loam an inch or tw
mailer.

'• i'lie ffidwth on them i
i/i/r/ii/ fi(/i:i). A nan-iiw -t ■p
marks the line of the w-.fcr couist

..liicb

IS eiinllK

|)(.sed of the <'\uvi.i of aniinaK and decayed le^fctalile

princi|pally a slmrt Imt nntritioiis firass, called bntralo jjrass {Si/s/iriii

f allu\ial soil, supportiiiiT a coarse ffiass and a few cotton wood trees,

. whiih are ihcm-clvcs s\i|l)iicntly few and far between.

" Whatever may lie said lo the contrary, these plains west of the lOOtli meridian are wholly unsns-

ceplible ip|' sustainiii', an ajfricultnral population, until you reach sulliciently far south to eiuoiiiiter the

rains from the tropics.

" The precis-.- limits of these rains 1 am not jircparcd to {{ive, but think the Red Uiver (of Louisiana)
is, iieihaps. a ■ far north as they cNtcnd. South of that river the plains are covered with firass of larfjcr
aiui more ' ifrorons i;io« th. That which is most widely spread over the face of the country is the
ijiama or mc/(|uite grass, of which there are many varieties. 'Ibis is incomparably the most mitritioiis
ifras- kn iwn."*

AlIIOIlAS.

On the niiibt of Oclolier 'Jnd. > iien camped on Water-hen river, an aurora of unusual brilliancy and
character, even in these rcoiuM-, surpriseil us .vilii the varied magnifii-em-e of its disp'ay of li<flit and
(-oloiir. .\ liroad rintt of -lioiiii auroral lifrl't ncarlv eni'ircled the pole star. It possi-sscd an undiila-
tory molioii, and conlinually slmt furtli, toward- and bcydud the zcnilb, va-t wave- of faint lifjht. 'I'hev
folliiwed line aiinlhcr like huge pulsation- -wave aflci wave-^- e\|iaudiiiif towards the sinitb with
undimini-lied -trciurlb and I'liutiniiiiii; m.niy minutes at a time. Suddenly the waves rea-cd. ilie
lumiiiuii- ! .'It iiv rill).' ioi-rca-cd in lirilliancy. lo-t if- rcfjidar funii. and here and there lirokc into faint
streamers of a pale yellow- nlour. The -trcamcis rapiiily iiicrcasiufr ^(l,,^ reached the /enilh, and
finally mcctiiiif lieyoiid it. -hot forth from the Imniiioii- arc with swift motimi and in rapid sucression.
I heir colour varied from straw to pink. Tiic display of .-ireamers is ipiite common in tliis jiart of the
continent. 'Ilic waves .ire also not niil'rc(|iieiitly seen; but none of the half-breeds or the Indians,
whom we saw a few days afterwards, had ever witnessed such a brilliant spectacle as the licavciis
preseiitei! (luriii<f the early part of the iiifjlit, when the immense pulsations, 1-1 to 'JO in breadth, and
ex;)aniliiifj in their i ; parent a-ceiii from cast to west, rolled in liaiapiil, noiseless heauly, tliroiiffh the
liei veils overhead.

.-\t lo p.m., on the i^'th of October, when camped on the -bore- of Lake Manitobah, near Oak
Point, a hall'-brecd awoke nic to witness a crimson aiimia ot siirprisin;f maKiiilicem e. rnfmtiuiatclv,
a few cloud- were tlittiii^r athwart the -ky, which prevented the centre arc from being vi-ible, but
perhaps they increased the dcp'li of the colour. The light wa- generally steady at the edge- of the
cloiiils. The a|ipcaiaiicc of streamers was recngiii/ed only in the ch'ar porlioiis of the sky and aliove
the clouds, where the ro-e or crimsmi tints were much taiiitcr. It remiiidcd me nf the retlectiou of a
vast prairie on fire; the deep ro-e and crimson tints lasted for half an hour; then gave way to white and
sfraw-cilourcd strcainer-. occasionally tinged with pale emeiald green.

('"Inured auroras are init iinfrccpicntly seen during the summer months, but thcv rarelv possess the
extraordinary beauty of tho-e which have just been described. These beautiful *' dancing -pirit- of
the (ji-ad " impart a -olenniity and charm to the still night, which must ever remain mie nf if- must
delightful characteristic- in the-e region-.

Lake Huron, always attractive in calm -iiminer weather, was peculiarly beautiful on the evening and
night of the '2.)tli of , Inly lf.J7, during our llrst voyage to Red Uiver, when lighted up liy a iiiagnificenl
aurora, a- we neared the small Manifoiilin Island. The auroral -treanicrs converged beyond the
zenith. It- base was mnrked by a very aliriipt and well-defined sheet of light, frcmi which waves and
streamers ro-e fmm time to time. Ma--e- of lighr innved continually frciii west to east, with an
niidulatory mutinii, ncca-ioiially fnldiiig and iiiifnldiiig, with great rcgularily and di-tinclne-s of oi tliiie.
A lew ininnte- after lo n'clnck the lia-e of the moving fold- wa- tinted with delicate rose colnur,
passing, liy iinpercepfililp gradation-, into faint emerald green .ibove, The calm surface of the lake
reflected tliese delicate coluurs, and the ever-varyinff motions of the auroral sfreamers and wave-. The

* Ili|Kirt (in llii' t'liilfl S'.-ilf^ and Mi-vicin lti)iinilitry Survey, iiindt' iinih-r llie ilio't'ticin of llu- Socrctiry of llit* InliTii
II. I'jiiiirv, .M.ijiir l''ir-l Oivaliy iinil I'liiti'il SMIi-s (■iiiiimi.,-iom'r. Wasliii.Kiiui, is-l'i, |i|i. 1;1-I7,

, hv Wil.i

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

1 r

ufteiiidon liiul l)pen wami, witli ii fresh H.mth-west ijrpezc, luul ii thin hazu in the siime direction dmm--
spreailiii({ the high shores ot'tho Grand Manitouhn Ishind.

Thu bt'uutiful spi'ctatli; pre'sentt'd liy this aurora led to tiie dpscription, hitherto unpuhlished as lar as
the narrator was aware, of a speetacle of extraorchnary niagnificent'e wliieli liad been witnessed liy one
of our fellow-traveUers, a post-eaptain in the Knjfjisli Navy, who was niakin;,' tlie tour of the (fraud
Lakes. This {rentlenian deserilied liis ascent to tiio sunnnit of the IVak of 'IVneritfe, for tlie purpose
of seeing the sun rise ahove tlie waters of the Atlantic from tiiat iniiHising eh'vation. At llie
moment wlu-n the red light of tlui siu\ began to llasli above the unrullled outliiu- of the hori/on,
overcome with emotion at the splendour of tin' scene, lie tinned away to seek a momentary relief in the
grey of the west : but iud)ouuded astonishment and admiration seized him, on beholding, instead of a
grey blank, a gigantic iinage of the IVak projected on the sky to the full height of 4o°, and swiftly
sinking into the ocean as the sun rose above its eastern ontliiu.

Cohmel Lefroy, in lS-13 and I8-t-l, "njoycd nnniy excellent oppurl unities of witnessing auroras in
Rupert's Lan<l, at Fort Chipewyan, Lake Athaliasca, latitude 58" 4a' north, longitude loj' a.V l.j" west,
and Fort Simpson, latitude <il' .")!' 7 " north, longitude 1:^0' ,V '20" west.

The following extracts from the " .Magnetical and Meteorological 01)serviifious "* at tlio-e places
contain the residts of nuicli valual>le experience on |)iiiuts of great interest cimnected with the display of
this lieautiful phenomenon. They are r'nllowed l)y some extracts fmm Sir ,lohu liicliardsciuV '•Mcli'oro-
logical Observations at I'ort Contideuce, on Cireat Hear Lake," latitude (i"!-" . 14' north, and longitude
1 18 4'J' west, relating to the sanu- sulyect. The extracts have reference to the supposed altitude of
auroras, their coiuiexion with the atmosphere, the soinid produced l)y tiieni, and the coniu'xion of aurora
with magnetic disturbance.

the

• of

most

Kxlrinta j'ruiii I 'dlmiil Lc/iiii/'s M i ti'iiroliuiiail (llisfrrdfiiiiia.
.\i,ii riDt:.

•• For want of i urresponding ol)servatlons elsewiicre, there are no data for cuinputing the height of any
of the displays, but I avail myself of this opportunity of stating that llie imprcs-iou conveyed to the
seu-i"^ upnn manv occasiiois was altogi ther oppiiscil to the idea of the >cat of the display being sn distant
as it seems to be iu Inwer latitudes." — ('(ijifain {imir t'lilimrl) Lr/'nii/'s .\/iii/iiiHitil mnl Mi/fnin/in/ii'ii/
I llnireatinm at Lair .Uhiiluist-a iiiiil Foil .S'/;;(/(mj», page 141.

('(ixNKXiDN wnu rni AiMdsi'urni;.

" If the region in which tlie aiUHial development lakes place be entirely iu'Vipud the limits of the
atincj«pbcrc. as is coimuuuly supiioscd, il is dilKcnll to cuiiceive any ('ircci councxinn bclwt ,'U the aurora
and the state of thai medium; Imt this (|ue~liou may pi'rbaps be regarded a- not liually settlc<l, and it
mav lie wurtli while In examiuc the acccmipauying mctenrolngical fcalurcs. The lir-t which will iie
ih.liced on referring to the meteornlugical register is the apparent connexion lietweeu the occurrenci' of
auriaa and a slate of calm." — ////i/., page U'l.

.Sul Nl).

'• With regard to th<' much disi)uled oue-tiou of -nuud. neither the writer nor his assistant were ever
positive of liearing any. but the lallcr llinngbt that be did -o nii mie or two occasiun-. 'llie result of
incpiiries iipnu the sulijcct was, that opiiiioii> were nearly ei|ually divided aniniig the educaled residents
of the country. .\ small niaiority "t' those the writer cuiisulted agreed that a snund ^omelimcs acccan-

paiiied the plu'nomenon ; lait among the uuediicalci
i- piiibalily much superior

kI n.'itive iiiliabilant>, who

acntenc-

to that of the otter c4a-s, a belief iu the sound i^ almost univer

ipf sense

iiiili\idual~ a>sured llie writer that tliev had he ird it. .Similar testimmiv has been

bv iIm

^taut at the ()bser\atn

of T

lie very posi

tixel'v

l,".l.

irouto, upon one or two occasions

great <n-i

ilav."- //././.,

(

oxxi Miiv (II .\i ui)i:a w

1111 NLm.m

rii

A liltle experici ce iu Nnrth .\uierica, w

liethi

(•

Is ri uiiAXi K.s.
Ih.

\ada or m the more iiortlicni region-, siiliice- to

it the impression that e\ery display of aurora, however inconsiderable or di-laut. i- altcniled I

sensible magnelii' (lislurliance,
di-plavs ail' aluiosl aluavs attended liv

On the other hand, it is iinipie-tionable that llie more brilliant
^netic di-liirbanccs, a- are indeed mauv of the iiion' modrrate

xieptioii-. Ill llie lir>l das

re verv rare, but the writer belii'\es that siniie can be estalilished.

•oiiclusiou mil

.1. hi

that

an iiilimale relaliou exists lietwei

lese ili-ilmct

phenomena, although not that of cause and elVect. --//</</., page 1 Jl.

I'Jx/idit.i Jhiiii Sir Jii/iii J'ir/iiiril.i(iii'x Miiniinlni/h'dl (l/)!:irriitl<iii.i,
.Vi.rrriDi ami Disr.vxi i:.
Several times during the winter the auroral light was seen, both by mvself and Dr. I!m

in flout of a mas- ol cloud.

both

i.fti

le ea e with winch the eve iiiav

Ihi

be d

lop,

eccivetl in

I'll ob

crvalions, we watched the di--plavs of the iiliciioiueiion willi -nil

alteutiou >iii the .ilert, and im

had

cell similar occiureiu'es more liei|iieutly am

leinaineil oii oiii mini

icieni -I'cplici-in to keep ll
1- of the lealilv of the f,et. Iu former vear-

d even more mauifestlv. i'liivlv vi

eiilertained the belief that the aurora wji
the constitution of the almospheie, and tin
that opinion." — I'age •i'-J'J.

iinnecled with the formation of cloud, anil otir

previously

itly

observations ol

f tin:

s win

ter, all tended to slieujitheu

* .M.ij(iii-iiial itiiil ."\K'tftii-oIo^iiMl Dhsurv.itions «t Luke Allmli.sca unil t\irt Siiiipiiui), by t';i,.liii,i [now ('.■Ikik-I) .1. II. Li'lVuy, It. A.,
mill at I-'iirt Cunliili'iicc uii.UrLMt ll.-.ir I.aki', Ijy Sir J.iliii Itiiliai'lMHi, (.11.. M.l). IMiiU'd liy or.lcr of IK-r M'j.slj-'s lio>'i.riiiiU'iit.
Kuiulutt : Luiigiii.ui.

'1' -2

148

REPOHTS or THE AJ^SINNIHOINK AND

Sounds,

" Witli vesport to sounds of tlie iiui'oni, tlic lioliof ])rovailM in tlic aivtio roj,'i(ins that it is occasionally
aiidililc, when very briffht and active, at wliich times it is believed liy the natives to lie near the earth,
Ilavinjj witnessed tlie phenoinena some tiiousands of times without hearinjj it, I have liecome sceptical
of it ever pnuiucing sounds uudihle on tile surface of the earth." — I'age 8H(I.

CowKMos 1)1' ruK AriKiiiA wirn M.\i.Nr.Tii' DisTiEin.wc i.s,

"()u a review of the observations made <liu'in)7 (lie seven niontiis, many instances of llie sinudtancoiis
oi'curreni'c of the llnrlnalions of the needle with inovcuu-nts in the auroral lif;ht were noticed; but thero
were also examples of fluctuations of the needle in llie alisence of the aurora, and very numerous ones of
brilliant aiu-oras a<'coiupanied liy a stationary or slu;fj;ish needle. I camiot, therefore, venture to ascribe
tiu- movenuMits of t!:;' needle in any case to those of tiie aurora, or to any particidar directions of tho
beams and arches. I think, however, that tlie needle varied more frecitu'utly (huiujf tin- sudden forma-
tion of clouds tlian at otiier tinu-s; and I am also inclined to say, that the formation of clouds often
followed brilliant and active auroras. It Is a popular belief In the fur districts that very fine displays of
the aurora presage windy weather." — Page ;)5(>.

'rwii.)

lie

One of the most beautiful celesti.il |)hpnoniena visible after sunset and before sunrise from the north-
western ]irairlcs Is the Iwlilght bow. The extraordinary clearness of the nights dunng summer in this
region oilers a very favourable opportunity for witnessing the (leli<'ate idlouring which Is connnuulcate<l
to tlu- lower atmosphere liy the rctlccted light from the upper ilbuninatcd porlions. As the appearance
of the twilight bow Is (iepiMulcnt Ujiou the serenity of the atmii»piu're to a great degree. Its oci'urrence is
not liccpicntly observed or recorded In tills country.

The twilight bow and the causes which produce it are thus described liy M. Ihavais:* " Iimnediately
" after the setting of the sun llie lurve which forms the separation between the aiiiio>plierl<' zone
" directly illumiiialcd by the sun, and that which Is only illuminated secondarily, or liv reflection,
" reci'lvi's the tiaiiie of tiie cri'inisriilur riirrt; or tiriliohl Imir. Some time after sunset Ihls bow, in traversing
" the licaMMis from ca~t to wi'st, passes the /eiiitli; this cporh i'urms the end of civil twilight, and is the
'■ nionicut when plaucls and ~lar> of the lirst iiiagnitudc begin to be visible. 'I'he eastern half of the
'' liea\ciis lieiiig then rcinovcil beyond solar llluniinatlon, night comniciiics to all persons In ajiartiiiciits
" wIkisc windows open to the casl. Still later tin- twilight Imw itself disapp'ars in the western horizon ;
" it Is then the end of the astronomic twilight; it is closed night. We may estimate that civil twilight
" ends when the sun has declined (i' below the horizon, and that a decline of Iti' Is necossary to
" terniiuate the astronomic twilight."

1 often observed the twiligh' bow to be tinged with a delicate rose colour, passing into straw colour,
and then into faint emerald green. The line of demarcation between the bow and the illiiniliiated
|iortion of the atmosplien' was often very well deliiicd, ipiite a> clearly as In a secondary raiiiliow. It
appeared iiio-l lirilliani at an allituih' ol UO or 70 above ilic horizon. If desccniled slowly towards llie
bomidless level, pre.«er\ lug apparently with riiii>ideralil(> exacliicss the form of a parabola. When the
twiligbl bow is best dcveiopeil the aspect of the prairie is very singular. 'I'liwanls the east It Is cold,
chcerlc-s, and glo<iiny ; towards the we>l It Is warm, liispiiaiinj;, and suggestive of pleasant thoiighls and
clieerfid i Mtlclpalioiis. No wonder the prairie Indians associate dellglitful dreams of happy lninllng
grounds willi tlie setting siiii and the beautiful west, 'I'liey delight to nit silent and thoughtlul " in the
ylory of the >unsel," and allow ilieinselves to lie lrans)iorU'd In imaginalloii -

"'I'o llie ishlll.ls „rt|i,- 1,1, .SSC.I.
To till' kiii^'iliiiii ol' I'diii'iiiali,
To ihe IiiImI ol' llic liclTiiI'lcr."

lift- AKtrumliij|;i(|in.- lie l.i I'fiiiuv for Ih'.o; (|iiuit(i Ii^- I,. \V. Mtt-k in tin- Siiiiilixniiaii Ui-jtuii lur 1H,*»(».

SASKATCHi:V/AN KXPLORING EXPEDITION.

149

ITINKnARY.

(I.)

I'nOM roIlT (iAIlKY aolTII-WKSTWAHIl TO TIIK 4!)rll I'AKAI.LEL, VIA TIIK A.SSINNIBOINK AND THE LITTLE

SOU II IS.

Camp,

No. I

No. 2

No. ^^
No. i

No. i;

No.

Muin Trnck, dUtaiicv
from —

Preceding I'ort
Camp. ] (iarry.

No. 5

No. H

No. 9

June ]\, \nr>H. — Coinmcncrd exploratory siiivry. Kiic;muiipc1 on the prairie,
(iooil pasturage -.-..-..

June \'i Lanes I'lisl. — I'lirsuul a i,'ooil hail tliriiiif,'li n flTtilu country, par-
tially .irttk'il. I'iiH' pr.iiriis ailapli'il (or fira/.iiij; and njjrienlture. t'luiiips
of poplar, litavy linilier in tlii' bays of the ri\er. .\ detachment lininclied
oil' al St. .lames' iluireh to make a icconnaissanee of the Hi^ Itidj^e, from
Stony Mountain to I'rairie l'orta),'e - . - . . .

Jniir II!. .All att;'mpt to survey ihe .Assinnilioine np->lream in canoe had to
be reliiiipii!ili<>d, in e.insecpn lue of the swiftness of the current. Iteplaced
canoe on a cart, and pioeeeded !,'> miles further. Canipeil at a siaf;nant
pool in llie shelter of a lilulf of poplar, (iood f;rass. Heavy tindier skirl-
inj; I'"' river .......

Jitiir 1. —I'riiiric Poiiiii/e. — \iy maliinj; an early start, I'laiii^ I'orlaiie Has
reached at I p.m. t'rossed a le^el prairie, »iih rich soil and herhajie, but
ne.nly d.siilnte of trees. Ihe delaclnm nt from Stony .Monntain arrived
in the altermion. (iood (jraziof; ......

June IK. — I'rnirie /'«r<</(/c.— Occupied in repaiiiii); carls, complelini,' cipiip-
menl anil makinn preparations lo enter the Sioux cnuntry. .Made a trans-
verse section of the river, and levelled to determine its fall. Heavy thunder
showers during; the day.

Jnne 1-1. — '/Ac /I'i'l ll'oor/s. — I'lein;; nnalile to keep pare with the train, after
enteriiif; the llail Woods, ol)>erv,itioos with lln microinetir had to be sus-
pi mild, ami the survey continued ivilli the ordinary inslrunuMils for the trail
iiiid for recoiinoilriii),'. Coi rii lin^— by frcipieiit observations — the main
liack distanei s drlrnnined Irom the verlliedmi an rale of the uheeleil vehicles.
'Ihe posili'Mi ot piiiminen' points established by criis* brarlnj.rs. I'lenly of
wood. Animals u.ilercd i.i the .Vssiimiheine. i'astura^e light ami scanty

June ''O. — .\l the Half-way Bank, overlookiig the valley of the .Vssinniboine,
7'. miles froin List camp, the latitude of lir Ui' I !»" was observed. Ilei{,'ht
iif liank, l.'jil lilt ahovi' river. Ureadili of valley, one mile. Mnfjnelie
variations l:> \.. Camped at 7 . among sand dunes, from the

summit ol whieh I'cmboia Monntain '' .losepli's was seen. Terrihe

thnnilcrstorm alter snnsel. Water i,. Herbage short ami stinted.

Light simdy soil ... ....

./uN>> '.'1.—^ Trail eontinnes among sand diiiie.s, ponds, seuttered poplars and
willows. Iteached Dear's Head Hill, the highest peak of the sand hills
nbout noon, and hailed to allow the animals lo graze. Hefore resuming
journey, a ihnmler and hailstorni came on. The hailstones (l-H inches in
diameler) cracked the bark of the canoe, on the carls. After proeeciling a
few miles, another \ioIcnt llniiulerstorin compelled a camp at Sunset Lake,
(iood gr.i'/.ing only in detuehed areas . . . . .

June '2'2. — 'I'r.iil still u inils around sand hills and between ponds, varying from
two lo thirty chains in diameter. Smokes have now to be made for the
animals at every camp. .Mosi|uitoes and bulldogs so annoying as lo prevent
Iheni from feeding. The n.';'at heat of llie weather during the day exhausts
the animals and retards progress. A teirific thnnderstorm lasting from
i to I- lo li p.m., rendered an e.irly camp necessary. Lightning very near and
vivid. Incessant roar of thunder for an hour and a half. I'lenly of water
in lakelets. Grass light. .Spruce aiul aspen on Ihe sand hills

June '>:\. — Observed for latitude, SiC, nt Pine Creek crossing, 130 inihs from
I'orl (iarry. A division followed I'ine Creek from the cart trail to the
Assinnibuine, returning by the Devil's Hills (ilunes of drifted sand). Slid
traversing sand dunes, with occasional intervals of light pruirie : and grns.sv
areas, between clusters and ranges of sand hills from ::() to 70 feet high,
dotted with stunted ouks, and thinly clothed with small balsam spruce and
poplar III! their flanks. Country improves and passes gradu.dly Into rolling
prairie, after leaving the old Uranduu irail, Cirazintj improved

T 3

St. Miles. { Si. .Milel.

' .A. 0-ei

•2 too

HiOO

'2161

+()'6I

19.')0 ' (5011

I
l,v(X) 7o'Il

ir>m

15-80

90-11

105-91

13'22

•25-5

11913

Ul'SS

ISU

REPOUTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Cant)).

No. 10

Miiiii Trail, dititmu'o
frinn —

June '2i. — Dircitiil foiirse towiiriU tlio .\»^illllib()illc■ iiiul Sciuri» I'drks, rciicli-
ill^ tilt' A.^sinniliiiinr iip|iii.sil(' tlir inoiitli ol' tlie l.iltir Siiui'J!!, I Hi miles I'l

I'tcci'dhig
('ani|i.

~Sl. M»m7

I'lirt (iiiiTV ill .)• K) 11.111. Ilalli'cl 10 niiiUi

si'iviitiuii>, ynizi' till' aiiiiiials,

mill bifiikliist. Wiininl this iiiniiiinj; Id |iu'|iaiv lor an allack liy llie .''^iiiiix.
Till' simikr 1)1' Iwii liii - ill tjir vallry iif tlir rinr iiiiliiaiiiig lliiir |)i't'»oiifU.
(iriiUKlioppcTs vi'i V miiiK'niii!! anil lUslrmlivc In lHi|,'|;agi- ami liariicsa. V.f-
t'rrli'il lilt' iTOssilift ul' llir .\ssiniiilH)im', iiI'liT ciiiiilili'liii); iilisiTvatiims ;
SHimiiiinj; tlu' Imrsis, Itrn iiif; llie l)a^^;a^t• in lauois, anil linviiin tlif I'liits

ami

wa^iUDii Dvt'r.

I>i

It'll ll|) till' li 11 l)ai)i% III' lllr Sillll'is

ii|iiii(;

liiiir

milrs t'luin its iiiDiiili. Moiiiili'il giiaiil iliniiij llit iii/;lil ti) avoiil a siiipi
by tilt' .Siimx ..--...

No. U I Jiiiu' '-'■). — llravy sIkhmis of r.iiii i.iily lliis inniniiij,' prtvt'iiliil llir tarts I'lDin
.iial liiiiir. ( ibsii'vtil for laliliiilt at a Miiall alHiiint 1)1' llic

mlvaii

till); al till' u>

No. 12

No. l;i

Xi). 1-^

So. I.j

Xo. Ifi

No. IT

Souris. L'aiiipt

il III siinsi't 111) tilt' banks ul' tlit Siinii> vail

bflM

Mint' llills 1)1' llniniliiii anil tin' Dliir Hills iiC tlit .So

Vail.

till'

y vi'iy ilit'p

ami broail. .Sttniiv wilil ami picluitM|iii'. (ioiiil liatk iivti- a riilliii({
prairie. Soil, samly loam. i'rti'Uutinnarv im'4irurts continntil. IIi'rbu|!(!
ritli In tilt' vulli'V ami in imist dI' tlit IioIIiihs - - - - -

Juni'Mi. — Tirriiic tlmnili r:>tiirin last iii|2lil,

and lii'avv rain, lit

apanit'd by lioistirDUs wind

•iliT to ri'lrisli llir In

I imniird al prici'iliii); tanip Ilit ^nialrr pari dI' ilit ihiy,

Dili

111

tNaiiiiiialiiiiw a

skctclit's in tlio v.illiy. Hi'siiiniii); inairli at 1 p.m., liavrlU'd d\ tr t»i) lioins
and e. imped al a beaiilU'iil piiiiit in tlie Siairis valliy. oppnsiir Itntk I'lit
Creek, a iiibiitDi-'- rising' in tin' liaek l'".it I. al.es, IVoin wliii li ihe N'nrlli
lirani'li i)l IVnibinii liivir alsn issues, ('ri)ssi'il a rolliiif; prairie dl' li^jlil
sandy Inani, with iieea«ii>nal >tDiiy riders and Miiall lakes. Oblainul a
inagnilieeiit view of llie bmindless, snulli-Mislern priiiries, Willi I'lirtle .Miiiin-
lain ill the dislanee, beliire deseeinliii^' iiiiii llie valley. Men and animals
sillier iiiui 11 I'riiin the nllaeks ul' imisipiiliies surrDiindiiii: lliein in eliinils

Jhiii2~. — Sti'iK'k e.iiiip al niioii. liixiii^; made the reipii^ite iib.^ervations and
levelled across llit va'ley. Tiavfrsi'd an iindnlalln); pr.iirie Willi •;iavelly
kniills eresied with erratits al intervals. .\ lew liiinimiieks iil small pnplar
along inai';.'in i>l' valley. Herbage slnirl and seamy mi the lii^li ;;romid,
ritli and e\nberaiil mi the Idw grnnnil and in llie alluvial bottnms -

Jiim: 'J.H — .Sirlkin;; tamp and advaneing at ilayliL:lit, a halt was made ul S a in,
to breakl'asi and to examine tile sliales espiisi d in the valley. I'roeeiiled
down river aslinrl dislanee in eamie. 'llie Sonris is here l-H eliains broad
and "-'A-D leet deep, with a sMilt tiirnnl. (ampeil al S p.m., , liter joiirtiev-
ing along llie eresi ul' the vallev, ivir a lighl prairie with oeeasional anas ol'
rieli dark snil, C old and slurmy day, .'■lioiig north wind. It lin. (ira/ing
good -------...

./iiiir 2\>. — .M'ler trossiiig I'liiin lirook or J^nake (reek and li.iiling lo graze
Ihe aiiinials ,il ,Siiake Hill, layers of drill tirtiary eoil or li^'nite were ilis-
eiivered in ibi' bank ol llie Sonris. I-j)gageil during the remainder ol' the
dayi n sinking slialls and e\ploriiig loi lignite in lliis locality, Madu eanip
(ires ol' lignite. Wnud and water abmiilant . . . .

June HO. — Sniilti //ill, — Still oetnpied in exeavaling for lignite, making soctlons
and observations. Tliree men desp.itehed to Oak Lake, lo liiiiit with a view-
to nave provisions, returned in the evening with a nninher of ducks and
pelicans. (Ira/inj; tolerably good. I'leiity of wood and water.

./«/'/ 1 Siriiek eaiiip and siarted train al daylight. Halted for dinner at an

old log house on tbe banks of the S.inris, a winter Trading post of the Hon.
Ilndsuirs IViy Coinpiiiy. Crosnid the " lioiiml I'lain " in afhrnoon, a
brantifnl gra--y are.i about (i)nr miles in iliameter, level as a bim ling gi een. and
siirrooniled b\ thinly wiiuiUd s.md lulls. (', imped on a level plain, ^npport-
ing liixnriaiil grass This plain was Hooded ill IS.)L' lo a eonsiderable deplll,
and ncennies an area of a'loiit a mile iiiividtli belweeii the Sonris and u
range of low sand bills ......

Jul;/ '2. — Tents strnek and brigade eipiipped (or the inarch at 1- a.m.
'i'raversed an nmliilating treeless [irairie extenililig lo Turtle .Mountain on
the left, (.'ros.-ing Half-way Creek, and several deep gullies e:inylng the
])iairie drainage into Ihe Sonris, the train halti d at .Maiidiin Creek, another
small alllnenl, so called from the nnineriins inonnds or Iminill near its moiilli,
taid to have been iimlergroumi lioii i s nf the M.inilan Iinlians. ,\ earefiil
examination of the tniniih was made by digging into llieni, lint no vestiges
of Imlinn r. mains were found. ( ampid on Ihe banks of lied Deer's Head
liiver, near its coiiHiience with the .Souris. Two sets of nstrnnoniienl ob.ser-
vations delerim'ned llie latitude of this station to be l!F 1' 11-", or u fraction
over two Rtal'jte miles north of the international boundary, onti in about
I(K) .'i.j' West longitude. Magnetic ilevialion, Ifi- .Vi' K, Oood grazing,
wood, uiul water in the valley. 'I'raek of iSioux observcil . . -

,5(10

1,)S()

l''u[t
Gurry.

SOIiiiT"

M<l'88

l(i3-38

i>-7o 1 17'2-I3

I s •'.'.';

1 W)-:t8

I '.MO

15-<)5

1!)'J'«8

li07'i);J

- ! 'i:i-:i7

'J:ji-30

26'2fl

257'SS

SASKATCHKWAN EXPLORING RXPEDITION.

ISl

Fort
(iurry.

Camp.

No. 18

H!(bH

Main Track) distance
from —

I'ri'mling I
Cflmp. I

Fort
Garry.

Jiil'i 'X — Urninininft iMi('uin|iPil till Hftornonri In mnkc nliHcrvations an well ai
to ri'imir tlic carls luul triivellin;; j,'car, ii (lfl;\iliiiicnt wllli an cucort wnii
rnnliU'il lo niakv a rt'i'oiilijimiaiii'i' ol' Itol I'lir'n lliail illvcr to itii nuuitli.
All liaviii;,' rt'tiiriixl tii tMm|i, llit' liiii«rs wiru liariii'Hst'd aiul ilii' JDiiriicy
rt'siiiiu'il l>)' till' train at .> p. in. .StrikiiiK in a .S.W. direction, ucnms an
niiiliilatir)t prniric strcui'il \\ iili lintLilii iliiii); anil storcil tvith liiiir triickK,
a ilistaiil |ioint nt' Itril Diim's IIukI llivcr »itliiii Uiiitcil stiiirs IVrrilory
was ri'at'lic'il alimit H.'!!) p.ni.. ami a ('ani{iril rornii'il mar a ('luiii|i ol trecK
Krouiiii.' nil till' iiinr);iii ol tlir rivir. tvilli a vii'w of takiii;; in a supply of
wooil lo III' iisiil ns liii'l ill niis-iii^' llii' pirral Ircclrss |iriiirit' l\int; lulwoi'n
till' lioiiiiilai'V liiii' anil Koit l')llirr. Sonir liosiili' Sioux in anilin-i'iiili' in tliu
\ii'inily iil tlir iiicaiiipnii'iil, aitrinplin;.' in slanipi'ilfl tin' liolilili'i) lioriivR
allrr dark, sliowid llir ni'ii'-slly of inrri'asi'il prciaiilion and vifrilancc.
'I'lit' aiiiiiiids \vi rr ai'rordiii^ly pickiti'd wrlliiii llir camp riii^', and tlic nmnlier
nt Malclicrs incrcasid to lifjlil. I'lanrscd Inl'orc cainpiii;; a vast saiiily
plain Willi 'hurt and smililiy };ra»s. Inn 111 la-t year . . . .

SI. Jtile'.. 81. Mil.'H,

lo-i,-;

■J()7'80

1(>5'3W

(II.)

FiKiM nKi> iiKF.ii s 111 \n uivi'H — A n H Mii.Ks siiirni or riir isTFUsurrioN ok riiE iioundary i.isk
^Ml riiK. i.irri.K soums — nohtiiw ahi> ki foht ki.i.h k.

I7'.'-I:i

IWl-ltH

lli'J'SH

l.'07'!».')

ilil'.IO

•-'jy-J

Miiin Trnik, ili»itnnci>
I'miii —

('iinip.

No. l!l

No. '.'(I

No. ■_'!

No. '."_'

No. ?!)

./«/// 1-. — Sioiix heaiil liv ilie "alc'li dnrio:; llie iiiulit, iiinl llie tracks of their
si'oiits olioerved ill clnsi- proxiinitN' to tlie eiieainpnient this inoriiiii^- .Snlli-
eii lit wood liein;; distrilinlei) ainoiiL; the \'i liielcs to hist during a pa^>iii:e ^A'
live days across the },'n'al treeless praole lielwieii llii« sialion and I'ort I'.lliee
and camp lieiiiL' broken up al 10 am., the train wended its way in a northerly
direelioii lor alMMit lln-'c hours across a Iisiil ^ainh prairie, dolled every-
where with lileaelii'd linlfahi liones ; and hailed ahnnt tlirie hours al a .small
pond with a inarKin of inai'sh. 'llie animals heiii^ nun h lati^'ned by llie c\-
ces.ivf. |i|.;ii of tlie wcallier. only si\ miles larllier were acceinplislii'd •

./»/// .'i.-ltrcakio;; up camp at davlii^hl, the tr in was in Iraiellin;.' order and
.idvanced at i'lll) a.m. Travei'sed a level ph, in with siiiall (.'laM'lly knolls
and low ridi;! s at iiiterxals. .Soil ^enerallv li^ht sainU loam, (irass short
and scanty. I*lenty of water in marshes, pouils, and sta^naie creeks. No
wood of any kind as far as the eye I'.inriaeh. 7/i(;.v //c Cf/e/ir rarclv seen
■Siw -cMial aiilclopcs ami shot a I'cmalc to-day. Caniped at sunset

./«/// (i. — I'p at dawn. I'rain in niolion about ■!• a.m. Hailed al I'ipestonc
t'rei k fur breakl'a.sl. haviiij; accoin|ili>lii d I'i'T^i miles, after live hours'
I'-avelliii;; .icross a li;;lil sandy praiiii' u itli low knolls and ridjjts of pravel
anil lionblers. Iteniaiiiiii|{ licl'c lo determine the l.ilitnde and living' delayed
Home lime in fordinu the strcain, owiiit; lo the sleepness and iiiiriness of its
banks, the train did not ^cl under wav a;4uln till '2 p.m. Traversed a rolling
Woodless prairie with hard j;ra\ellv soil, supporting a scanty urowlh of
grass, and camped al 1 -iss (/reek, a small iitHucnt of the .Vssinniboiiic,
Howiiig in a broad valley among low hills and knolls with geiilli slopes.
Standing .Stone .Mountain. I'oss Hill, and Oak Lake were seen Iroiii a conical
liill ne.ir the eni'.'impmcnt ......

Jiilji 7. — llot'ses caught, unhobl.'eil and ready for the maicli early. 'I'rain left
camp site at .'i a.m. Crossing a h'vel plain and fording l!oss Mill C'rec'., a
halt was made al a stagnant brook, after traversing a light saiiily and gravelly
prairie with short herbage. riieiice journeying over a r.illiiig prairie with
verv light soil, ill many places I'overeil with tinuhlcrs and supporting occa-
sional liiiiuniocks o:' poplar and willow, partially burnt, the .V.ssinniboine
was rcaclieil, a camped pitched at a small alllnent, and the animals iiirned
loose lo graze u little after i p.m. ------

Jiihl S. — Tents slunk at :i, and the train advancing at la.iii. Halted lo skin
uiid cut lip a biitl'.do bull " run " and shot this inoniing. liesnming march at
II a.m., and cro-sing a rough prairie w tli hard uravclly soil covered with
err.iiics, the Twi) Creeks (tributaries of the Assinniboine) were reached about
;i p.m. Hiving forileil the creeks aiul cainpeil, ihu remainder of the day was
ncrupicd in examining and searching for fossils in the shales exposed in the
valley .........

T 4

Pri'L'i'iling
('ainp.

Si. ,Mil7s'.

Kill Drcr'n
■ 111. Itiri-r.

,S|. .Mill's.

I .'!'9.i)

■J.'l'IH)

13-95

:i(i'!)5

■_';(• Ki : (iO'M

l;)'70

h(V(ir

l(VH7

90'9a

153

HEPORTS OF TMK ASSINNinoiNE AND

C«in|>,

No. aj July 9. — Slrikiiif? ti'iit< cttily, tlic hornet wrrc iiiiijjlit, niicl llin train, with tlir

I'xreptioii of oiiu ciirt, iMjuippt'd for travel nt 'i'iii a.m. Tlio ox iillhoii^h

huhbled, coiihl not be IimiikI, iiikI Ihrci! of the piirtVi acconipunird hy the

wiiggoii mill driver, hnrlened ini In Knrt Klliic. h'iiviii)( the train to lollnw al'ler

^ecovl'l'in^ tlie ox, whieh wnn iiccoinpliihed niter ii aeiireh of seven hoiira.

Crosiiod iin tindulaliii); pinirii' exteiidiji;; to the AHsiiniihoiiie, witli light

I s.iiidy soil, except in the hollow*, where ii Ihiii ronting of vegetable nioiiiil

I ia found. Mailed to eanip at a gnlly with sta^'niint water in the botloni.

leading to the .\H>innibiiine. (iraii» nbundiint and rich in the depri'Saiona,

I'lenty of water and wool. Hnlfolii seen again to-day

No. U.3 July \0. — /'ort/iY/icc— Siarting at !! ii.ni.. i'ort I. lice wa« reaeh>'d early.

Ilcfore fording llraver Creek, a Nvel prairie, with soil id' light, sandy loam

wait erosHi'd. The monotony of the plain relieved here and there with

I clumps of light poplar and low sandy hills. Itelween Heaver Cii'ik rro»!.iiig

I and the fort a n ell-beaten track pasiiing over a aaiiily plain and hills or dunes

of white f.\\u\ were traversed ......

„ July \\. — I'orl l\llivi: — Kneaniped wllliin li.ilf a mile of llie fort. Ilemained

ipiietlv ineuniped to day, (Sunday,) niueh (n the advantage of the wearied

I oniinals. Kn^'aged at ni'iin and at iiiLilit in ihli rinining aslronoiiiieally the

position of liiis station by dlllerent .tIs of i>bser\ations. riiniKleiMt'tm

and rain In the al'trrnoon

Miiin Track, illManc*
from— .

l*ruci>(Uwg I
l'iini|>.

Ml. Milvii. SI, Mill's.

LI-SS KMiW)

lO'.Ht 117-70

(III.)

riioM Four i i.i.icf; wrsrw,\iii> m tiii: ul .hm'Ei.i.i; missiux.

' 18'

Camp.

No. '.'Ii

No. 27

No. '.'8

No. M

No. .fO

M liii Tint'li,

I I'ro'ii-

Prni-iliri)!
! Ciimji.

' Si. .M.U-.

JnU/ \'l. — Having conijileted oli«irvaliiiii«, reconnoitred He;\ver Creek to iin
junction with the .Assiniiiboiiu' and made a traverse of about \ miles iinitli nf
the fort III oblniii a seitiiin of the (ju'.Appelle Ilivir at its mouth, ihe Tort '
r.lliec eneanipment was broken up and the train pioeceiliil westward nbiiiit
') p.m. Went into camp at V'.'tll p.m. after liaver.«iiig a li(.'ht sandy prairie
with occasional elunips of Miiall poplar, and several marshes and pnnils - 7'''>(l

July IM. — Camp struck at davlight and train advancing' at the usual hour.
Traversed an uiidnlutini; piairie of liuht sandy luam with senttered eliimps
of poplar and willow. Ilallid to feed after travelling nine iiiiles. Thence
jounuyed over a rolling pruirie of rich samly loam, cliithidwilh an exu- i
iierant growth of excilhnt gra»s. Annlher hall was nniile at the Cross
Wiiods, an 0|'in belt of light a^pen reported to extend from Qii'.Vppelle
Kivi r to I'ipestiine Creek. (!ainpeii at sunset in a region of marshy ponds
Mirroniided by light prairie. Terrific Ihunderslnrin just before dark — coii-
liiuied siii'ie hours -•--.-•. 'J.5-,')0

July Ik — Started at 4- a.m., and traversed a light rolling prairie wlili gravelly
ridges thinly wiiodcd with senttered aspens, suceceiled by a wide treeless
pliin of licli sandy loam. .\ halt was niaile for breakfast at a bluff id' poplar,
after aeconiplishiiig a ilislanee <d' I'J miles. Continued the journey across
an undidaiiiig prairie of light sandy liiani, n illi oecasinnal clumps of kiikiIi
popl.ir and many ponds. Camped late, ul the beginning if a vast treeless
pr.iirie stretching north lo the (iu'.'vppelle. .\ cold windy, ilii-agreeable
day. I'cals of tiiuiider heiiril overheail in Ihe morning. l)ctaineil some
lime by rain ..-.-.... '.'ITO

July 15. — Uost at .'J a.m. and resumed the journey W'cstward across a light
undulating open prairie, succeeded by a treeless rolling prairie, in the middle
of which, finding some slicks of wood dropped by Indian hunters, the train
stopped to gra/.e the animals and breakfast. Dined at the Weed or Hear
lleiry Itidge. and camped at sunset on an unilulaling prairie, with clumps
of poplar and willows. Soil of prairies traversed lo-day generally light with
gravelly ridges. Areas of rich loam with good grass in the depression.'-.
Abundance of water in numerous ponds dotting Ihe plain. Wood scarce.
Trail runs parallel to the QirApjiellc at a distance ol iy-l(> miles. Cold
and cloudy in morning. Strong N.\V. wind - - - . . M'S.'!

July Hi. — Cnmp broken up nt 'S'lTi a.m., and train en route before 4 a.m.
Halted after \'2 miles travel over a vast treeless rolling prairie, with soil and
herbage as N'fore. From this station on an open plain, the woods of the
yu'Appelle ly-lH miles off could be seen. Proceeding westward over a <
sandy prairie, among clumps of poplar and willow, the " Indian Head Mills " {

ilistuiu-«

r..ri

r.iiii'.-.

t)i. .Miii't.

-■'A)

:i;i-(X)

r>r,m

82-.5.';

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

153

In 'IVack, ditiaim
rram —

iili ■« I(»l l)t.|.r>i
"!>' IM. Kivvr.

Mi'N. St. .'Mill.,.

Cuiitp,

■!)0 117.70

No. .'II

'''"ik, ili<laiii'«
(mm —

were rpRchcil and crnMcil nboiit noon. Finding on the tvpit side of the hilln
nn cnRnnipiiicnt of half-hrvodii jounipving from Qn'Appclle Misaion to Fort
Kllici', un opportunity v/ia afforded for exchanging two liomuii ulniOHt worn
nut, for frvih onua. .Mtcr puaing tht! Qu'Appullu I'ort trail, tlic coiimv lien
over a light trcclcHit undulating prairie, nlopiiig gently towarda tiiu
Qu'Appi'lIf, and intoriected Ity icvrral croiks flowing in dui'p valleys.
CanipL'd at Kunaet. i'lenty ul' wood, water, and grnaa. Monriiiitava in
cloniU ond unuaually troukk'aoine in the evening ....

Jul// I? llnraca driven into ramp, unhohbk'd, nnd equippitd for travelling at

a a.m. Train departed Irnni camp at M'4() n.ni., and journed till 7 ii.ni.,
atopping at u point ivheru the party met ycHtcrday left some wood, on u vast
level prairie, with dark rich aoil, bearing luxuriant graa.i. .Met u half-breed
and fndiun family on the plain*, gathering and drying " wild turnipa " fur
winter proviaiona. Croaacil a light undulating prairie with many knolla,
ridgea, and ninrahy pondi*, and reaehed the Church of England Mi»»innary
I'ott at the Flailing Lakea, Qu'.Vppelli; Valley, Jiiat before aunsct. Forded
the Uu'.Vppvlle, and oanipcd on rn)rth aide of valley . .

Jul;/ \H, — Qu'Apiielle IHiuiim. — To-day being Sunchiy, all except those left in
eliarge of rhe enranipment attended Divine service, conu'icteil by the
MiMtionury (the Itev. .lanies .Settee,) in IiIm lug house, ''.'he tir< d animalii
nineh heiiehled by the rest and the good grazing in the valley. Thunder.
Klorm at night, v.itli violent ahnwer.t cif heavy rain.

.Ml/ l!l. — Qii' A/tfitlle Mi.inioii /iiiiani/mirul. — Kngnged Inat night ond lo>duy
in iiiukinglhe usual (d)servalinn.H for latitude unti variation, triangulating to
establish the iioaition of priunini iit pointa, making a section >>f valley,
levelling river, t.iking photographs, and preparing fur ciinoe vny.iges up and
down the Qn'.Vppelle.

Main Track, illatanca
from —

Prtcading
Camp. I

Hi. MlitT

aoo'j

'26'K)

Fort

Eliica.

8t. Mlln.

10917

135','57

i:iiii-...

I"- 1 Si. Jliii-,.

•SO

.'JS'OO

5600

fi2',5.';

av.)

inoM nil; gr'AriTLi.i; missihn- \vi:,srw,\iiii to nip. kldow of tiif souiii DnAsrn or the s.^sk.vtciikwax,

Vl\ TlIK (Ju'AI'ri:i.I.K IlIVKK ANO VAI.I.KV.

Camp.

No. :i'-'

No. .'t;i

No. ;il.

No. :i5

./«/// '.'(). — Uroke up Qn'.Vppelle Mlasion ciicnnipineiit at H a.m., nnd com-
niciued tlie ascent of the Uu'Appello Itiver in ciuioc alter the follouiiig
rlivisions were in roule. A dclachnient »ilh three carts to proceed to I'nrt
I'l'lly, after making a deluur to Long or l.u>t Miuintaiii Lake, unothcr, with
three carts, to proceed along the south side of the (ju'.Vppellc valley, to
meet the canoe division at the (irand l''orks of the river, and a third to pro-
ceed tloHii the (Jo'.Appeile in canoe to Fort Fllicc, thence by land to Fort
I'elly. Kinbarkeil in a three-lathoni birch bark canoe (hrounht from Kcd
liiver), manned by two voyngcnrs, and pa.sseil throui^li the third and fourth
Fishing Lakes. Camped after l.s miles p^iddling, live of which were against
the cnrrent of the river, incanilcring through a marsh hclore debonchiiif;
into lake No. |. ..-.--- .

,/»/// 'Jl. — Little rest obtained in camp last night, the swariua uf inosipiilnes
and sund Mies being annoying beyond measure. Uising at ;!, a'ld embarking
at I'a.m., the journey was resumed. 'I'lu' rate of progress against thu cnr-
rent of this tciituous river being slow, mie of the party proci'edcd to make a
reconnaissance of the valley on loot, whilst the otiier continued the survey
of the river in canoe, ascertaining the rate of current and canoe by log.
Delayed by a heavy rain for three hours aft( r halting at '-' p.m. The hill
sides of valley, which are upwards of ;)(H) feet high, were aseended at inter-
vals. SuiltHl and tracked up thu river till 8. 10 p.m., sonic time after dark,
and camped ........

July 'J'i. — Art route e.irly. Tracking and paddling alternately against a tor-
tuous muddy stream. Having halted to dine ami ascend the sides of valley,
an altitude of H-KH) feet, to e.\iiinine the prairie beyond, a violent thunder-
etorm coining on prevented re-cnibarkation for a consider.ibic time. Tracked
and paddled till sunset. Camped on the south side of the valljy surrounded
by clouds of mosipiitoes. The river is ao tortuous that to-day no fewer
than yOO courses and distances were recorded in canoe ...

Juli/ '1.'; — The Qu'Appclle still nioanders ihiouyh rich alluvial H.its, clothed
with lung rank grass. Ila serpentine course from side to side of the broad

Main 'I'rnck, (tistani'L'
from —

rrvrodiiig
Ciitii)).

.Si. Milfj.

1800

19'l(i

1-00

(^ii'ApiiL'lIc
.MUsidii.

St. Miks^

1800

.■I7-16

5\-m

f /

i '

104

UEPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

No. ;i(i

No. ;)T

Nil. 3.H

No. :iii

No. 4(1

No. 11

viilUy in I'li'iirly ninrki'il liy a clon,' iiiiir){iii ol' lull » illowa, Muili' an v.\t\y
ntiirt, iniK'i'ciliii); ii|i lilt' river iiiiU vulluy iii ln'retot'orv. Joiiivd tlio curia
lliiit wtri'i'i wiiitiiij{ III llii> ii|>)ii)iiiti.-il riMulvzvooK, unit i'iivaiii|it'il imt t'ur Iroiii
llu' l''ork« id ('(imiiiiiiy Willi a Imiicl ol' liiiliiiim — " ltiiii){ay« "•

Jiilil'i\. — Tliumli'riilorm viirly lliia nioriiin)(, Tliu torliioaily ol' tlio rivrr iinil
llio >tr<iigili ol' iln curri'iit ri'liirilcil iirogieta an iiiiicli lliat it wn< ili'i'iilcd lo
inniimu' the uN|iloi'aliiiii liy liiiiil. 'I'liu caiiov waa a('t'oriliii)ily rtplucvil on u
carl, anil llii' ('(iiii'.'d' III' llir trniii ilircctt'il u|> lliv vullry. .Vsctiiiliil lo llni
I'liKl of till' valley on the iiortli aiile, aiKl conlinui'il tlio jonrney t'ur aeveral
liiiiirH aloHK ilit iimi'glii over u li|;lit open pruirle. I'ilciieil enin|) ut aniiaet on
a graaoy |>lnte,iii on llir hill aide ol' valley, (.'ree Inilianii Keen

Jiihi 'i'l. -'I'lic nioriilni; iKciiiiieil in uneerlainiii); Ihe ilinii'iisioiiH ol' the valley.
The nii'.iaiireineiil tViiin hank to haiikl I j niileai aluiwa lliiil Ihu Hnlthol' thia
^reiU ex'Mivaliiin i' w.ll ni.iintuim il. anil the heiijlit iil llie hank eoin|MileU
I'riini nliHervatioiiii ivilh tlir nexlant inilieale hot Utile iliinlniilion in ileptli.
V'iMteil hv (rers. I'riiceedeil on the lirink of the vallrv. ovr a ll|i^hlK uil*
(Inlatiii^ prairie I'l' li;;lil Minily and |4ruvelly snil. hIiIi pnui', sliort gruM,
Mailed at a deep ravine, iiH'onliiiK wood unil ualer. 'I'lie trail ol' the train
leadiiiL,' oeia-'ionally "mue iliKlanee into the prairie in order lo hiiid the difp
Koifjea ami ravines r.i;nil\inj{ I'roni the vullev, mideriil it neee»s,iry lo make
ilelonr> Iron) the niain triuk at interval* to olilain a more loinplele reeon-
nais^^anee. Camped lale lit a !iinall pond a mile nc^l ol' the llnun.i Hill,
al'trr ero^sin^' a ndliin; pruirie nl' li)(ht Mindy noil. Unalile to make tire,
tlii'ie lieing neither wood nor Imis ilv viirhi: in the vie.nily. lleiliage mrnhliy
and stiint - .......

.//'/>/ LVi Started at dayhreuk. Came auihleidy upon an eneanipineiit of

I'reeii, nninlu'rin^ live -Kin leiiti, on the iili;i' id ilie vnlKy, mar ihe raiiterii
extreniily id' H llahi I'inind Hill Lake. The inmate!! uere nut np, liiil the
liayiii),' 111' their dm,"* at imr alirnpt appear.niee mhiii nrinised them. I'lirsniul
the trail over a li;;hl nnilnlalinu' prairie idnni; llie iiiar},'in nl ilic \alley,
Sloppeil I'lir a Nlinrt lime m illiiinl imyiikin;^ al lUill'.ilo I'nnnil Hill, a rmiii ;d
elevalinn at llie wet end id' llie lake of Ihe ^•:mlu naim', rroin uhieli the
'ronrlnviiKil llill«, the •■ Onllnnk." a;ul the (ir.liid Citeaii ile .\li»enri ean lie
seen. 'I'lii-e and other jirnniinent points were i nMm'cled at interMiK hv
niiinerniH enms lieiirin){«. Il;illed near the Onllimk Hills on n rolliii;{
^ravellv pl.iin, with htimted ^ra>)t. Woml, water, iiiiil •.dtne good ^r.iss
ohtained in the gullies. I'asx d aiiolher Cree ene.impnient alter some honrn
triivel owr an undiilaling sandy prairie. The lent, (nine in nunilier I were
at tile he. id el' .i lir. ad ravine tilled with piipl.irs. Al'ler a little delav in dia«
triliutinj toliai eo, pnwder, and hall, and liarleiiiig t'.ir .Mesaskalnmina
herrics, the jmirney wis eniiiimud and eiinip pilehed a Hlile alier snn^i i.
Waleh appoii.ted lo pivveiil llie Cree.s Iroiii >teaiiii!{ the lioisea. Camp lires
nriiiitr.iio d'.inj; ........

./"/(/ .7. — Camp struck at daylight mid trnin e« mule at ■l.a.in. The ninnerons
(ieep gmges and ravines hreaking the contimiity ol' the valley side ren.
dered many di vial ions t'roiii a tliriel course necessary. Traversed a very
light «.indv prairie ^lrelvn with lionlders, and hailed on the liriiik nl' the
valley at llie east end ol' Sand Hill Lake. Soon Mirioiiiuled by Creis, who
hail galloped acrons ihe valley I'roni their i'lieanipmeiit on the opposite side
oil gelling the lirst r.linipse III' the ir.ilii. Whilut u "talk" was g.iing on
heiweeii our guide and the ehiel i.l' this band, llie height ol' llie prairie
plalean all ive .Sand Hill faike was aseert, lined liy levelling, and the width
ol' llic valley by measiireinent. (luve the ehiel' some loliaeco and amnin-
iiition to liistrihnle, and procured liin miii us a guide to the " Kiver that
" Inrns," and the Saskateliewaii. Crossed ilie valley, which is dry hero at
this season, and camped not far from the Indiun lodges, (iraziiig poor.
Wood and good water very scarce. IliiHalo seen Iwne to.duy

Jiiljl JS. — Left camp site at the usual liniir. The train piirsueil a course over
a sterile, atony, bnlfalo plain, thlcklv dotted with biiii lU vnilie, and lialtMl
earlv to wait for llie return of u division that had branched otf to make n
reconnaissance of the Kycbrow Hill and liidgi'. Indill'erent grass and no
water, but a supply was obtained for cooking by calrhing the rain which fell
in torrents at noon. A Irnversewas made on horseback to the west end of
.Sand Hill Lake, and the exploration noiitinucd along the brink of the
valliv, whilst the earls lollowed the I rail he.iding ilie ravines, till reaching
a Irihnlary rising in Kyebrow Hill ridge. Cuiiip pitched in the valley at the
eiintluence of this alllueiit and the Qu'Appelle. The usual observations and
levi'lling conducted here to obtuiii u section of the valley, (iood grass on
ihe flats. Water and a limited su]iply of wood, llies tormenting aa
usual .........

Jiiljl '&). — Struck camp and started early. The train recros.sed the (iu'Appclle
and proceedi'd along the foot of the iiurtlicrn slope until the mud Huts

Ml. Mill's.

\\:vi

Si. MiIm.

(iJ-4S

id'i;)

TS'ill

il'H.'l

UM)'7()

-Mu'J

l'.'.')'.'S

aoi,-)

I l.Vi:J

i.v:

lljOCS

* C'rccs mill Ojibways of niixi'd origin.

SASKAICHEWAN KX1'L()U1N(} KXrEDITiiOBi.

Iftd

I'litnp.

N(p. VJ

Vtmk, ill.iiinci

bixiinir tiiii wet uiid •[iiiiigy lor tli« miiiiiali. Aaci-ndeil tu tlio crvai of ihv
vnllt'y and piiriiiod n iMrcuilou* cniiric kIodk iu brink, iiinoii^' lillU i>)' wliilt^
anil yi'lliiw iiiinil, ijuitr InoHr anil ^fnlltulL' n( vi'||i'lutiiin. lliivinK iTuast'd
■nino I'l'i'lilf brookn ritlnu in pnndn iinionfC iIid nund liilla, i fi'vUvri on tjiin
Hide or the great miirili lining tlio (Ju'A|t|H!lle vidloy iit ilii* iuniinil lirvcl,
and ii'iiiiing iti wntrra lo tlif Aaninnilioinu anil the 8iiakutrlirwnii,) a /lalt
wiia ninilii tu dctcrniint! ilie poHition, nnd ninku n llinruuKli exaniinntiitn ol'
till' lit'iKJit III' land. IU'iii|( mioii aiirriiiiiiduil liy niuiinlcd Creca, (lie trdin
jnnrnryi'd un tu ni^'iitialt' and |iiirlt'y witli tlii'lr cliiel' Slinrtatick, tvliu wim
ini|ioiiiiilliiK buflulu uniiin^' ihv .^iiiui hill.H liutliir wcat, wbilat ii lii'lacliinvnt
ri'li'Hcc'd ihvir ati'jM tu llir lii'i)(lit ol' land, tu dt'torinint- liy Icvi'lliii); the
I'Icvutliin ul' the IitiIIii); inaraliea and piiiulii in tlii> vuiley abiivo tliu 8ua>
katclivwun, Kncanipcd ni'ar tin; liiiHiilu pound, aurrounilcd liy clu>tvra ul'
akin Ivnla. iira/M\fi very pi.or. Watrr acarcv, Siruli poplar lietnevn the
aainl hilla ........

iliili/ MO. — CnmniencinK uporationa at dayllf(bt tliia niiirnin){, the levelling wua
riaiiined, and the aiirvey of tlin valley continui'd without interniisainii until
I'liijiiiiK upon the South llranrli of the Sankiitchrwan at .'i p.ni. Dlatancu
levclli'd I I.HT miles. Allitiide of the aiiniinil-levrl |)Ond (one of the aourcea
of till' (jii' \p|ii'lh' and tlir ■' Uivi r that lurna") ahiivr the Naakutchewan,
N.'i.s!) feel. 'I'lii' train rinehed the Sickatclieuaii early in the day, unil all
prep.iratiiini were eiiinpleted for a re-ilivi»iiin of the party ; the e.inoo
guniMied mid eipiipped fur a voyage diiwii the Siintli Draneli, and the earta
repaired for a jiiiirnry lo I'lirt a In Ciinie. The train liitvliiir departed on Ita
way norlhu^ird. the ennoe diviaion uiiliaiknl aliont siinset, and alttr '.'.70
niilea paddhn;.; eaiiiped on the right hank ol thi iivii

To niiiuth of tlie •• liiver tli.it lurni''

()a'Ap|i«IIe
^tiaaiiin.

Nt. mm.

h'lO

I69'0H

io;t.-i

I7ic4a

2-70

• •

17(i7.1

(V.)

rilOM TIIK g<j'AI>rEl.LK MliSION LAHTWAIIU FU t'OIIT KI.I.ICK, VI \ THE QU'^rPKLLK HIVEH.

(■uinp.

No, i:»

Nil. *i

No. \.;

No. If)

No. 17

Main 'rriiok.ilistance
I'rinn —

Ha'Apiitllc
.Mlsaioi:

Pri'oeiling
Camp.

./u/r/ '20 Kmbnrkeil ihli ninrning in a 24 ralliom canoe with two voyageura,

and eoinmriiri (I the deseent of the (jii Appelle Irom the beginning of the
portion of the river i-.iuing from Kiahing Lake No. U. Obtained the di-
niensiona of the eonnei'ting river at ita month, and atnered down the eentre
of I'Mliin;; Lakes '_' and I, aonnding at intervnla uitli the hand lead.
.Measured the volnnie of water in the river at ita exit from the east end of
Lake No. I. I'iti'hed ramp at siinsit at the foot of the aonthern slop<!,
MO feet lielow the prairie level ......

,hih)'l\. — Started at ilnyhreak. I'mhUed till .'( p.m., when it lieenme nceea-
M.iry to eainp in eoriseipienee of a tluinderstorni. The (iu'.Appelle eontiiuie.s
wonderfully windiiif;, and nieanilers from aide to aide of its hroad valley so
iii>en that the diatanci' made by the river ia far greater than that actiully
aeeompliahed in a ilircet line ......

,/(////-_'. — /■,'« roM^' early. ,Miiored eimoe and took breakl'aat at an arr^i of
burnt ^'raaa, revealing laiil of piod ipiality. Malted at intervals to 'ieter-
iniiie the dimensions of the river and valley by the usual aeriea of .diaervtt-
tions. A tliunderatorni in the even,,ii; oeensioned u deten.oe of an hour
and three ipiarlers. Camped late - - - . -

Jiih/ y:). — Striiek eanip and iinlmrked it the usual hour, soon passing Pheasant
Creek (ealliil by the trees /! *(,»-/'j<)-K'i .<e/»'-."',5"., a small tributary rising
in the I'heasant Mills anine distanee to the nnrtii. I'.ntered Crooked Lake,
Kii-wti-trn-hi liii-tmif of the Crees, at noon. Sounded through the lake, and
left it with sDiiir ilillleully, its outlet being eoncealed by rushes. Continued
paililling down the river, whieli maintains its uniform width of about 70
feet, and average enrrent of \\ miles an hour. Camped at sunset at the
mouth of an alHuent from the south, ealled Nt-pi-me-na-ne St-pi-sh ; inter-
preted, I'enibina, or Suinmcrberry ereek - . . . -

July'li. — Wet morning. Itaiii inerensing ; after three hours' paddling It
compelled a halt of seven hours. Iteaehed Ka-wit-wi-i/it Ka-vuu\ or Round
Lake, in the afternoon. Carried a line of soundings through it, as on the

U 2

8t. Miloa.

SI. >bl>«.

•-•.V2G

•_'9(!'>

,';4-91

4;i- 1 .-1

•)8'0G

L'7-78

I25-84.

156

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Camp.

No. 48

No. 49

No. 50

M.tiTi Track, ilistanco
from —

l*rccv(ling Qu*A|)l>«Uv
Cam)). I Miiu.iun.

other lakes, tintil arriviiif; at the rccninmcnccment of the river. Thciicu
glided down the river n distance ot''2'4:< miles, bv its serpentine course, und
camped at Assini-pichi-jni -yahan — the Stony harrier . . ,

July 'lii. — Kmhnrked after the heavy ruin ceased. Passed in n short time the
nmnth of a creik, falling in from the south, named Is//uao.wis-tc qunu-nii-ha
iis-lu-k), or the creek where the Cree women's skulls lie. C'nmpcd late,
after passing Little Cut-Arm ('reek on tlie north, nnd Scissors Creek on the
sourh, — small altiucnts with very lon^; names in Cree. i!warm!> of insatiable
mosquitoes and other venomous inserts us usual ....

July '26. — Uesumod the voyage at dawn. I'ussed, after two hours' iravel,
Gre.it Cut-Arm Creek, another tributary from the north. Halted frequently,
as before, to obtain the position of prominent points in the valley by inter-
secting bcarinus, and to examine the character of the pruirics above.
Kiver extremely serpentine. Fine meadow grass on the tiats. Flanks of
valley und ravines timbered. Pitched camp ut the usual hour

July 27 Left camp at daylight. I'assed some places where the whole valley

is tilled with trees, chiefly poplar, ash, elm, maple, and oak. Arrived at the
Assinniboinc Hiver at sunset, and after making n section of the mouth of
the Qu'Appellc proceeded to Fort Kllice und camped.

To mouth of the Qu'Appelle .......

(VI. )

!iil

»KO.M FORT KLLICE, NOBTIf WKSTWARD, TO FORT PliLLV AND SWAN HIVER, VI \ TlIK WKS T SIDE

HT THE ASSINNIBOINE.

Ciimp.

No. 51

No. 52

No. 53

No. o4

No. 5j

July 2S. — Occupied the greater part of ihe day in making preparations for u
reconnaissance of the country lu-tween the Qu'Appelle und Swan lliver.
Started in the evening from Fort Iviliee, with u light equipment. F'ordetl
the Qu'Appelle three chains from its mouth, and ascending to the upper
plateau pursued the trail skirting the Qu'Appelle vulley till dark. Caniped
on a Biiiuly area covered with creeping juniper, (irass scanty. Small poplar

July W — F^iuipped for the trail and in motion ut daylight. I'ollowed tlif
Qu'Appelle vulley half u mile furlher, then struck north-weslerly tliniugh a
woodland district with prairie intervals. Passed a large sundv knoll called
Ited Deer's Horn llill. Halted after fording a cnek of the saini' name.
Traversed u rough and partially wooded |irairie of light sandy soil before
crossing Wolverine creek. Rested as usual at noon, near a conical hill
named \t--iiiy-yuy-u-e->ii.i. Forded the llig Vulley Creek, and cunq)ed
about eight niiles west of the .\ssinniboine. Wood and water in uiiundance.
Luxuriant grass, (iooil land ......

July liO. — Left camp early and followed the trail, n inding between clusters of
ponds, scattered over a level prairie, supporting s'raggling liumniocks of
poplar. Crossed anotlier small tributary of the Assinnibolne in the evening,
and pitched camp beside a nmrsh. Wood and good water. Kxuberunt
growth of willows and grass. Soil, sandy loam ....

July'M. — Struck camp and ai route ut tlic usual hour. Traversed a fine
country with open groves of sapling poplar and ino.st luxuriant vegetation
before fording the Two Creeks. I'pon fording Stony Creek und rc.a.'cending
to the pi'uirie level a iiult was made for the nomi-day fi'cd. CrosAcd an
undulating country, succeeded by u Hat tract, abounding in ponds and
marshes, some of which impeded progress. In fording the Sleep (reek a
cart was upset, the crossing place being hud. Kncumped among the lieuver
Hills, three quarters of a iniie beyond ihe Steep Creek - . .

Augutt 1. — Hroke up camp und started in u very heavy rain. F'ollowed a
course through an entangi id mass of vegetatiim skirting ilie Heaver Hills.
Drealifasted in a pourin^ -ain, after fording White Mud Kiver, u rapid
stream 70 feet wide and four feet deep. This crossing occupied sonns
time, being very bad, and the banks of the river steep and slippery.
Traveried a very level country, with surface soil of rich sandy loam, sup.
porting clumps of small poplar, o>itrs, and a luxuriant growth of various
plants, lleuclicd the Aasinnihoiiic, after pqssiiig through some beautiful
open woodlands. Forded the Assinniboinc and encamped ut Fort Pelly,
Found the curts from the Million here . . . . .

Main Tr.u-k, distance
frtmi —

Pri'CwIinB

('.imp.

St. Mikv

1-41

•ja-ji

LM-12

27..'(.:

l'..r(
Klluv.

St. M lo.

4-41

■.i-2-iV>

r.iy- t

H|-(iJ

19 4.1

r::;';4

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

157

••• Si. MIIct.

No.

August 'I.—J-'ort Petty Encampment. — Engnged during tlie day and at night
in making tlic usual ohsrrvatinns to determine the lalitudv and magnetic
variation. Preparing I'ur a tcaverte to Swan Kiver.

Aiiriusl 'A. — Started Cor Swan lliver a little after noon. Crossed Miry Creek
and continued down the valley of Snake Creek to its confluence with Swan
Kiver. The trail led across La Course Creek and three others fiilling into
Snake Creek. Slopped some time to ascertain the dinieiisiuiis of Swan
Uiver and its fertile valley. Ueciirned over a level country with a surface
soil of sandy loam sprinkled tvith erratics. Hummocks of small poplar and
spruce. A few tamarack.

To Swan Kiver ........

!I2'9.1

(vir.)

fUOM " THE HIVKK THAT TURNS," NOHTIt KASTWABl), TO FORT

OF THE SASKATCHEWAN.

A I,A COBNE, VIA THE SOUTH BRANCH

Camp,

(«)

No. 56

No. 57

No. 58

No. 59

.No. CO

No. CI

July 30. — Launchetl canne at the mouth of " The Kiver that turns," and
commenced the track survey of the Saskatchewan (S.B.) Descended the
river for half an hour, and pitched camp in the vicinity of a rock oNposure
on the right bank ........

July 3\. — Kmbarked curly. The swift current of the river (three miles an
hour) accelerated progress. Kiver half a mile to three-quarters of a mile
wide, but shalhiw where broad and much interrupted by sin,d bars and mud
tints. Halted at noon to rxumino an exposure of sandstone. Passed large
Crec encampments on both sides of the iivcr, at an Indian crossing place.
The Crees "pitching" eastward to avoid the Blackfeet. Mesaskatomina
berries in great pr>)fusion. Camped at dusk ....

Aiiiiust \. — Left cnnip at the usunl hour. Made n transverse section of the
I'ivrr upon hulling to breakfast. Camped at sunset in the .Moose Woods
after some hours' puildling through intricate chaimels between large alluvial
islands and flats, (iond land on the flats wooded with usli, eUn, and aspen,
liuffulo seen flouting in the river ......

Auyiisl 'J Passed, soon after embarking this morning, some old shanties of

the half-breeds who eome to the Moose Wowls to barter with the Indians
in winter. Halted oetiisionally and ascended to the brink of the valley to
examine llie country beyond, which generally cnnsJAts of a lolliiig sandy
prairie ilolted with -.'lumps of poplar. Kecorded many sand bars, snags, and
raw yers to-<lay, and one or two small rippling rapids. Had to moor canne
at I- p.m., and seek shelter in consequence of a thunderstorm. Camped at
7 p.m. on a low stony point covered with driftwood ...

Aiiffust ;t. — Struck camp and embarked at daylight. .'Vncliored once or twice
to measure the rate of current. I'ouiul it to maintain an average velocity of
llirce-and-a-quar(er miles an hour. In the narrow places it is much swifter.
Halted at noon to level along the brink of the river to determine the extent
of its full. Passed some precipitous bluff's of yellow clay in the bays of the
river and campe<l at a small rapid, '.'his rapid off'ers no impediment to
navigatiiMi, as its fall is not more than nine inches, and the ruftted water is
only on one side of the river, on the other the channel is smooth and deep -

Aui/iisl k — Left camp at sunrise and did not stop for breakfast till I l.SO a.m.
Itesumeil the voyage at I. SO p.m. River iilled in some places with wcll-
uooded alluvial islands and mud-flats in course of formation. Tlie banks
are now lined with poplar. A ihunderstorui with very heavy rain at 4.:I0 p.m.,
cmiipelled a halt of three-quarters of an hour. Stopped to camp at
T.'JO |).m. .........

August .). — Started at (i.IU) a.m. .\ drizzling rain, that had been falling all the
morning, began to pour very he.ivily about 11 o'clock, rendering it iiecesi'ary
to halt and seek the shelter of some large while spruce trees which grew at
the river side. Continued the journey after the rain bad ceased, and, being
aided by a very swift current, swept round the great bends of the river with
considernble velocity. Current much increased in swiftness, being in many
places upwards of four miles an hour. Several portions of the river de-
scended In-day might be termed rapids, the water being quite rough with a
heavy grouudiwell. Arrived nt the (irand Forks at '2.20 p.m., and com-

U 3

SI. Milv

vi-m

.'J4-52

1300

4T-1()

50-90

St. Mile,.

2-70

15-38

79-9()

l'2'2i)0

1 ^;o'0(i

•J 1 9-90

158

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

No. (12

inenccd the ascent of the Coal Falls on the North Branch lo search for
lignite. Tracking up iWin impetuous torrent was a slow pruce8.<i, and camp
was pitched at a point about two miles from the I'orks, only reached at sunset
by the canoe. Found Cretaceous fossils.

To the Grand Forks .--.....

August 6. — Left the tent standing over the baggage and proceeded up the lel't
bank of the river on foot, leaving the voyageurs lo follow with the lightened
canoe. The rapids retarded their progress very much. About five miles
from the Forks a mass of the so-called coal of the voyageurs was observed
in the drift hanks, but none in situ : it holds /iioveramus. Collected a number
of specimens and glided swiftly back to the Forks. .Saw a half-breed
family with a bark canoe at the Forks, preparing to ascend the South llranch
to gather Mesaskatoniina berries. 'I'ltey had set out from the Nepowewin.
Left the Forks at .'i p.m., and proccideil down the Main Suskatcluwan.
Arrived at I'ort a la Come a little after snn^el, and pitched tent within the
Fort enclosure.

F'rom the Forks .---...-.

August 7 — /-"orl I'l In Conic. — Triungulaling lo establish the position of pro-
minent points in the valley and to ascertain its dinieiisions in the vicinity of
the Fort. Sketching the I'ort, the Mission, &c. The guide In charge of
the train of carts journi^ying lo this rendezvous from the KIbow iirriv(!d in
the evening; he had left the carls in the morning anil poshed on in advance.
Deterinin(d the magnetic varialion.

August S J'ort it la I'orin: — Wet all the morning. The carts arrived in the

forenoon. This being Sunday, .sonic of the party attended service, conducted
on the oppiisite side of the river by the Kev. Henry Itudd, a native mis-
sionary. ^I.iklng preparations for an overlanil journey to Fort Klliee, and
for a continuation of the canoo voyage to Red Hiver, vid tlie Main Sas-
katchewan and Lake \Vinni|)e^-.

St. Alilvi

29-S3

•20-I.-.

St. Miles.

M-9'7;i

(vin.)

FROM FORT PIXLY, SOL' Tll-W ES TW.VRll, TO Tllli I.ITTLK SASK ATCll KW A X Oil RAIMI) RIVER, VIA THE FLANKS
OF Till; 11L( K AND RIDINll MOUNTAINS — TIIENCR AI.O.SU TIIK llAl'll) RIVEIl FROM THE .SIM.MIT OF THE
lUnlXO MOUNTAIN TO TIIK ASSI NNIDOIN F — TIIENCt; UACK TO THE INTERSECTION OF THE LOWER TRAIL
ANU THE LITTLE .SASKATCHEWAN.

I I

Cuinp.

No. (].

Main Trai-k , disbincr
from—

No. Gl

No. (>,')

August t. — Started from 1 (irt I'clly encampment lliis ninrning, equipped for an
exploration of the country lying between the Assiinilioine Kivcr and llie
Dnck and Hiding Mininlaiii Kangca. Pursued a south-east course along the
left baiikol the Assiniiilwine over the gentle western slope of the Duck Ajoun-
tain. Crossed several small brooks, the largest called ."sandy Knolls Creek,
and rested near the Two Creeks at a point about two miles Iroui the base of
the Duck Mountain, and not fur from the Assiimiboine. Wood, water, and
cscellent grass in abundance. Camped at 7 p.m. in a region of luxuriant
vegetatioiL (iood l.'»nd --.-...

August .') The train left camp a little before sunrise. Traversed an undulat-
ing country with luimerous clumps of poplar and In willows. Lund good
but rather marshy in many place.1. Forded I'ineCriik and resteil lor two
hours at noon near .Swampy Creek. Camped at sunset alter crossing a Hiu'
tract of country with a most exuberant growth of grass and various plants
bc'lween o|M'n groves of young aspen . - - ■ .

.Uii/uxt ti, — Struck camp and started at the usual early hour. Upon the train
halting torestand graze the draught animals a leu miles beyond the .Swampy
Itiver crossing, a detaciunent set out on horsebaeL at right aiighs to the
trail to make a reconn issanee of the Duck .Mountain, lieiiig unable lo
lord Swamp lliver at the point Hliere they struck it, they proceeded up its
valley until a dense popla ' for' st, iilletl with fallen logs occupying the slopu
of the mountain, C(unpi'lled th -in lo retrace their stips. Continued over a
country almost unchanged in topographical character, ixeept that for the
last mile before camping the trees and vegetation bore i vidence of having
been prostrated and torn by a most violent storm from ihe west. .Met a
train of ci.i.s in the afternoon journeying to Fort I'elly - . .

.St. Mill-

.S!. M,U

•r' i:.

I7-T'J

I.V17

1--17

li'-'.;^■^

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

159

Camp.

No. 60

Main Trnck, distance
from —

Preceding
Ciiinp.

No. (iT

No. (iS

Nci. (i!)

Ni). TO

No. 71

No. 7-'

No. 7;!

Auyuat 7. — Ueacheii Shell lliver early. Upon fording this river, which
sijpurates the Duck and Hiding Mountains, a mounted party set oH' to trace
it tn its confluence with the.Assinniboine, whilst the train went into camp
to await their return, Keturniiig late cnnip was not mnvud. Good grazing

Avgnst H Made n detour up thc^ Shell River to-<lay, ascending the valley as

I'ar as it was possible to penetrate with horses through the forest of balsam-
poplar and wliitewood, rendered almost impassable by fallen logs and under-
brusli. Returned to cimp and determined the latitude of this station
(50' n%' 12").

Aiif/iixt !). lUsunied the trail before sunrise. After two hours' travel the river
trail diverging to Tort Klliec was passed, the train taking the mountain trail.
Traversed an undulating district with open woodlands. Crossed several
brooks, some with i)ail cro.ssing.s. Malted tor the noon rest on a rolling area
with good meadow grass. Forded a creek and camped at 5 p.m. amidst
cluiiips of iioplar and willons. lC\uellent pasturage. Soil, rich sandy If ->

AiKjiist 10. — Started at I'.'Jit a.m. Traversed a marshy Modulating 'raet .ir i

country. Veget.ition very luxuriant. I'onds very numerous. Coiuitry i

beautiful, forded and rei.te<l at llirdstail Creek ; dimensions of creek K) i

li'et wide and tlirei' feet deep. Strong current ; e.inoes might descend, hut |

they vvniild linil it clilficalt to return. Valley broad and deep, and partially j

wooded. Camped at (;.l!) at Small Creek. Countrv line - - - !

" ■ I

Aiif/ii.il II.— /'ii ritiilr at i.-l a.m. Swampy ("reek with a bad crossing. !

Trail followed the tiaiik of the Riding Mmnitain, skirting an inipenetralile i

Haest of aspen stretching lo the siunmit of the mountain. Dined at a r.ipid

brook 10 feet wide .unl three (h ep. CourUry beautilul ; poplars and willows

fringing ponds and lakelei.< are charaeteri<tic of this part of the country.

Voiuig maple nnmenius on the left of the trail. Camped at sunset on the

banks of the I.itlle Saskatchewan (Rapid River) - . . -

Aiii/iisf \'2. — Ri'Uiained in camp and observed for latitude and variation
(I.at. .")() ;(;l' 1.')"). (Variation I. j liO' K.)

Aiigicl l:i. — I.I ft carts at camp (liO), an.; pioceeded on horseback up the valley
of the Little .Siskaulie"an lor a ilistance of I.Vl.'i miles on the S(Uith-
Hi'slern slope of the Riding Mountain, when a dense harrier of woods
oppo^in^' further progn ss and alhirding no feeding for the animals, roin-
pelleil the party to return (o camp Itiili. — 'file eoimtry passed over in making
this sii'e traverse is of the Knest description, and well adapted for farming.
The soil is a very rich loam, supportini" alterii.ite open woodlands and rich
meadows. I Distance travelled in making lliis side trip lo day, MOjO miles.)

Aiiijiist 1 1. — Stril.in:; coup (i!)) at an cirly hour, the train ascended to the edge
of the valley and jiiurneyeil along its margin in a southerly direction lor the
purpose ol' pursuing the river to its iunetion with the .V.-.simtiboine. Crossed
an nneven coiinlry with rich soil. >npp()rling clumps of poplar ami willow.
Halted al noon near u lakelet fringed with <isiers. Camped in a district of
1 1«, some of them a ((oarier to half a mile in diameti r. r.xcellent grass

Aiiiiii-il \'>. — tint olf at sunrise. Continued as ch>se to the valley as possible
in order to nuike a topographical delineation ol the river. Tlnie hour,..'
travel brought the train upon the White Mud River trail le uling from I'orl
(I iny lo liirt Mlliee. Pursued the trail fur 01:,' miles, and then diverged
to the soiilh-wist, contimiiiig aluiig the river. Camped at .i.K) p.m. to
make new axle-lri'cs lor two of the carts, the old ones being nearly worn
oat, and there being a supply of post oak in the valley, (iood pasturage.
W mid. I'lenty of Mater in creeks and lakelets . . - .

Aiii/iist l»i. — .\xletrees fmishcil and course resumed at 7 a.m. Crossed the
lower trail to I'ort Kllice after journeying one mile. Tr.wersed a gentlv
louUilating prairie with a multitude of punds and lakelets in the lowlands.
Ifi>ted near the river at a point where the valley becomes so broad and
shallow that it is lost in the surrounding plain. Crossed seveial tributarv
creeks ami caripeU un a rolling prairie strewn with boulders

AuijHst 17. — Started at (i.20 a.m. over an open level prairie through which the
Little Saskatchewan now mcamlers. Malted for three hours nt a point
wh.jrc thi' slopes of the valley resume their abrupt character, the river
cutting through aiH)ther plateau of light rolling prairie with short and
scanty herbage. Crossed simie dry coules intersecting an inclined undulat-
inu' prairie, and ei.niped in the valley of the .\ssiimihoine at its eontlnence
with the l.ittie Sasi ulchewan. Valley about a mile wide, filled with most
luxuriant grass. North slope ticelcss, southern slope cloihed with poplars -

Kxplured north of the mounlain trail cro.'.sing . . . .

.SI. Mili%

1'2-3'J

•_'f()0

Fort
Pi'lly.

St. MJi^

71--66

98 66

rJI-18

■2(>-10

ll-7''28

'.'Ii- 10

i:!-70

2.'5-!).)

l-5'()7
lJ-1.5

Length of truck along the

.iiile Saskatchewan
U 4

UV87 I

160

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Xo. 7+

So. 75

.liigust If-'. — Struck ciimp upon completing a rcconniiissimcc of the Junction uf
the two valleys, and taking interseftinj; courses to ilistnnt points. Turneil
north-westerly from eanip over a light rolling prairie overspread with an
nccuniulation of boulders. Soon entered and began to retiace llio ti'ail of
yesterday. Nooncd where the yesterday's morning halt "as made.

Aiit/iisl 19. — On the trail nt sunrise. Continuing u|) the .Little Saskutciiewan
V.illey. Iteaclied the teamsters' camp (71) on the lower trail to Fort Klliec
nt 'J. 10 p.m. Commenced the trail survey of the lower track to Vert Klllci?,
Ironi the brink of the Little Saskatchewan Valley, one mile from the cross-
ing place, at 5.40 p.m. Camped nt (i.'JO ne:ir the point where nicn and
carts were left on the 16th.

Main Track, diuanco
from —

Prvcetliiig
Camp.

St. Miles.

Fort
Pvlly

St. .Millar

(I.X.)

FllOM TIIF. 1.1TTI.F. S ASK ATCIir.WAN FOHl) WESTWAUII TO FOllT i;l,LICi:, VIA TMH LOWER TRAIL

h. !

Cimp.

Xo. 70

No. 77

Aiigiixt 'JO. — Struck iaii\p i7.'>j 'J' 15 miles west of tlio eroding place, and pur-
sued the trail a liule bei'ure sunrise; winding wi-strily iiini<l<t a. labyrinlli of
pimtls and lakelets scattered over a rich undulating prairie ^upp()rlillg n
most rank vegi-tiitioii, gaily tinted with lirilKant flowers. Itesied for abont
•wo liour4 near the juietinn of this trail and the White Mud Itiver trail
from I'niirie Portage. Camped ihreo-nunrters of a mile frnin Lac S.iie on
a gently undulating prairie, (food gr.ins. Stragj.'ling elunips of under-
wood, poplar, and low willow bushes. Soil, sancli loaii; . - -

. /hi/ha/ '_'l. — I'assed eloje to Lae Sale, """expanse or water one milt in
length and li.ilf u mile in breadth. .(. miles, travel brought the train to
the Miulhern extremity nf Sliiml Lake, \. lere eainp was piteJied in oriler to
enali'e a liivisioii to make a survey of this oliluii^' ixpaiiiii of water lying
tiearly at right angles to the trail. Tlie division lidloweil up the eastern
shore of the Lake to its northern extremitj, and returned to camp. Shoal
Lake is ."/-(o miles long and 0''J5 to0't5 miles wide, and lies in a bmad
shallow I'.ii-iii. Ill the vicinity of Shoal Lake llie ground i.. niiicli envi red
witli a white elHoresetnee. (ioud gr.u'.ing. \Voad and water in abiindanee

•itimr it with another

Xo. 7S I .iiiijiisl 'I'l. — (Jrossed the outlet ot Slinal Lak<

N'o. 7"

lake three-fourths of a mile in di.imetii', and proeeedeil uver an niululaiin
prairie, in i-everal places fin; and marshy. ILi-ted f>n' two hours amidst a
group of ponds. Cros.^ed a briiok soon succeeded by a valley 10 ehains
wide and 'W feet deep, lilli il with s'.iignant pools. Uestid for t»o hours in
a good pasturing district, and then j.itiriieye<l aeros;, a country unchangeil in
characteristic features. Koided liirdstail Creek, (a stream at this poitit
'.'5 feet wiile iiiul two feet deep, meanderiii;; in u valley .SO feet deep and one
inik broad, ) and camped two in.Iv» nest of it. Luxuriant herbage. Thickets
of young poplar ....----
.Iiir/iist '_':!. — Started at 1 ii.m. Crossed a HUinil creek and followed ihc trail
over a beautiful prairie with freipient clumps of pnpiar. Hoses, dogAvood,
,'ind wilUuv!, very numerous. A few small oaks, (irass and plants luxuriant.
Halted two hoins at a tributary of liirdstail Crcik flowing in a deip valliy.
lieaclu tl the .■Ss-inniboiiii' abont ihidii. and pitched camp in the valley near
the nidulh of Heaver Creek. Met here tin- train which had just arrived
from I'ort a la Come on the Saskati hewan. Animals turned loose to graze
iiu the Hats, and 'he remainder of thi^ day O'-upied in triaiigulaiiiig in the
valley of the .A^simiibuiiie, l)etweeii (Ju'.\ppelle Uiver and Heaver Creek.
Made a transverse sectiim of thi' .•Vssimnboine Va!l< y

Mftili Trark. ilixtancc
from —

I'rect'tlinii
C'ain|i.

Si. .MiIv

•J;i-I0

l.iliK- Siw-
katvlu'wnn.

Si. .Mills.

10 70

t!:(-.SO

tiOtt"

lo-so

70-S5

-iiMSi

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

161

'I'l-ack, dislana'
from —

li"g I Fort
I Pi'lly

'i^'- I St. meZ

(X.)

FROM FOni' A I.A CORNE SOUTH-WF.STWAIll) TO THE "LUMPY IIIIJ. OF TIIK W00U8 " — THENCR
SOUTH-EASTWAIID TO TOUCIlWOOIl HILLS AND FOUT ELLICF, VIA 'IHK CARLTON TRAIL.

(!an)p.

No. SO

IRAli.

"■li. ilisiuncc

I I • ',

f l.illl.- .Siis-

J ^ati'lu-ivjin.
, Sr. .Mil,.,.

No. b:

N... S'J

'-'.r5.5

■ iiy±-,

No. SI!

(ioo,:;

No. H I-

■0*.i

Mai'.i Truck, diitanet
I'roin —

Auffuil 9. — ". lie Illuming occupiuil in completing; the oquipment for a recon-
naiiisaiice of the country lying between the (jrand Forks of the Suakateliewan
and the confluence of the Qu'Appelle nnd Assinniboino llivors. New axle-
trees huviiig been made and fitted to the enrts, the train left Fort li la Corne
nnd pursued the trail nt I p.m. (about an hour and a half after the canoe
division had embarked for the voyagi* down the Sa.4katchuwan). Ase.endcd
the hilUsidea of the valley through ihicketa of aspen, nnd crossed a belt of li.
pine from a quarter to three i|uarters of a mile wid;; growing along the mar-
gin of the summit plateau. Traversed an undulating country with ;;ood soil,
bearing open groves uf aspen, l)anki>ian pine, and spruce. I'ordt d Long
Creek (a small tributary of the Main 8a.skatchi'wan), and camped on its
banks at 7 p.nu Vegetation very luxuriant. Raspberries in profusion.
Plenty of wood nnd water, (iood farming country

August 10. — .Struck camp and commenced taking the trail courses at i.A-'y a.m.
Ascended the shallow valley of l.oiig Creek, traversing a tract of excellent
undulating land. Itimains of an ancient aspen forest frequently observed.
The huge trunks of burnt tj<'<s lying hidden iu the long lierbuge occusiun
much trouble in iravi^rsini; this district with carts. Killed a bear, and
halted two hours beside a pond '2'iO yards long, to graze the animals a/id taki!
breakfast. Nooned at a dilatation of long Crei'k, one mile long nnd 'JOO
yards wiile. He-crossed Long Creek near a point where it issues from a
seriis of lakelets e.xtendiiig westerly for about 10 miles. Crossed a hill
range running at right angles t.) the trail, nnd ean ped at 7,'2'> yi.m. in view
of the Ulrtli Hills. Spl"ndid »oil. Fine >!i)plni! «nodlaniU interspersed
with beautiful nie.idons. \ igrtation exeryuhere nnist Uixnrlant. — Flowers
innumerable. Abundance of water in bionks and lakelets. Itain and thunder
nt night - - , -

Attffutl \l. — Train in motion at 4.;J0 a.m. Traversed a fine valley from four
to six miles wide, with gentle slopes clothed with very long grass. The
trail in this valley follows the wimling.i of a .shallow and sometimes dry
creek, flowing into the South Kranch. Waited for two hours to allow the
horses to feed in an extensive wi't meadow dotted with pond.i — the sources
of some feeble streaudcta lueandering to tiie Sa-kateliewan. Continuing
parallel to the northern slope of the llirch Hills — a thinly wooded range in
whieli Koot Ui^er rises— the trail cro.sses a very line ginziiig or larming dis-
trict. Itested ii<r three hours at niion in a broad rich valley bounded by
gentle hill range^' aliout live miles we-t of the Saskatchewan (S. U.) A
winding tonr.te aniliUt niimerou.s |'<ihds and itreiindels of various sizes,
brought the train to Lumpy Hill Creek, a brook with many stagnant dllata-
tioes, issuing (iiiin the hill of the same name. I'lirsued this stream for two
hour*, and pitehed camp beaidi- it a little after sunset. Ascended the Lumpy
Hill of the W'ooils through open iiipeii groves, mid obtained from its stmimit
a view of the lllooil;'. Woody, and Hireli Hill rnngcs. Kieli soil, (iuud
pai-tiinuri . l''^ ii.y id' wj'! "•■•! ..uter - . . . ,

Augnt \'2, — Started he!ore sunr.se across nil undulating [irairie sprinkli d with
liikelels and eanie upon the ' arlton track alter twu hours' travel. .M'ter fol-
lowing this lending iii-.l < mmw ird 'or two hours a halt was made in a region
of lakes and ponds lyiug betwei n low sjiurs I'rnni the Lumpy Hill. In
di'icending fruiii this south eastern extennion of the Lumpy Hill range, the
course passes over a saeeesM,Mi il' hills and dalen »<ioded with aspen elum|i>,
until a level and partially wood.'d prairie is leaeheil. Crossed sevir.d brooks
—feeders and outlets of nni'iy beautiful lakes — and eamped on n rolling
pruirie whilsi the sun was just sinking below the li -'"on. (iood grass.
Soil light gravelly clay on 'he sniMiiiit ol hills, very rich in low places. Lake
water a little brackish. Cluin|is of aspen, (irasshoppers seen

Augiut \'i. — Left camp at suiirise and journeyed three nnd a hni. miles in a
line dry valley »urri>:;:u!e(l by wooded bills enclosing several beautiful lakes.
Then iraversed a range ol !>ills and mounds, nnd passed live miles to the
west of the lake " where the >I'ios^ died." Whilst the tarts pursued the

trail several side lri,,» .■ •■ made on h irsebnek to the more piomincnt hills

and hikes on either haiul. Skirted some cunicul liilU rising through an un-
dulating prairie, and entered a very hilly country abounding in lakelets.
Houlders on the hills. Hested for three hours at the base of the Hig Hill,
and leaving the bnimdary of the so-cnlled wooded country entered upon a
treeless undulatin;; prairie. F'rom the summit of Big Hill was seen " Uutl'alu
Cart riain," lying tive miles to the north-east. F'ollowed a sinuous course
amidst a labyrinth of dome-shaped hills, and camped on a gently rising
prairie, at the beginning of the " Woody Itangc." Soil light and gravelly.
Many nmrthy lakes, bnmll aspen and willow bliill's. A little ruin. Gorgeous
sunset .........

{ Preceding
1 Camp.

81. Miles. I .Si. Mill's.

Fort

i\ la Cornc.

lO'OO

'.'8 -17

as- 17

.",0 10 : (J8"27

29"40 ! 97 07

^3-66

191'38

162

llEPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

i Main Track, Uislancii
from —

Cam|),

Prcci'ding I Fort
Cnnip. i u la Corne,

Ni). 85 August 11. — Stiirtfil train at daylight acios! i btaiitil'til iimlulatmg country,
bat Htill tlio >aini.' light soil iinil kIioiI liirhugi'. licnli'd liir twu iniil u liall'
lioiiis at noon on a gransy area siiiToiinilcd hy lakulil!. and opon as;itMi groves.
Oiu' ami a (|iiartir mill's ,S.K. of a hmnk llowing into .Ashes Lake the Carl-
ton track is joined by the trail t'roni the Moose Woods. Cuniped at 7.;i.5 ,'.ni.
on a vast nlidnlating treeless prairie, culled tlie Marry-wood I'luiii." Knolls,
hillocks, ami lakelets as licrelolbre. .Soil light and herbage sca/ity. Long
Lake .seen to the soutli-we.st ......

N . .^(i Auf/iist l;i. — I! iised camp a littli" alter sunrise and proceeded across i beautiful
prairie studded at intervals with closters of conical knel's. 'I'ravr r-cd several

I areas of salt prairie, in many places wet in . iiring, and >kirted the shores of

i u s.diiie lake with wat( r ot a bitter taste. Uesli'd upon a patch of salt

I ground surri.nnded by wet prairie and an extensive range of pomls and

I marshy lake*. A'ast ninnbers of aipuitic birds seen in the salt marshes and

I lakes. .A few grasshoppers observed. Moscpiitoi's and bulldogs .-till very

i mnneriius ami till uieiiting. Crossed a fim> woodless prairie, separated (com
a beautiful iiiuhilatin^- asei ill by a running strcin of cool good water 10 (cot

i broad. Ueached the -mil;. it plateau iiiul jmirueyed over an excellent tr.ict

i of country with \i\,v\\ liautifid lakes, until reaching Touehwoml Hill I'ott,

i where camp was piklicd at H p.m. Land of the best ipiality. Small aspen

j groves. Hill and iJ.iie. '1 he richest profusi.ai of vegetation. Soil ver;

I superior. Lakes in va'l oir/nbers ......

,, j Auijiift Ui. — Tducliirm.il f!ill i'orl. — Sam;' eaiio.. Wliilsl i'le train reinulned

I in camp to-day in ord. .' to npair the iri"elii,-.g cijuipage, as well as to rest

I the horses ami take advantage of the gc;, .! •/•■a/.ii'g i:' this loealiiy, an op)>or-

I tuiiity was atloi'iled lor exanimiiig am n.tNuig h rei .uinaissanc. of the

I 'r:iueliwood Hill range and surnmiiding ci.anny. ('laoieetcri siveca! of the

! mori prominent hills i1p_\ intersveling lii'ari/'itf ! wjiu La-' M^unlaln, Long

! Lake. AV;-(/H■^/-«^/;H-o/l: ( Heart Hill », Little Jo:! ii.»iiod lliHs. Ae. .Much

I conjuring; going on in 111 Indi.in (Cr'.e ) eee imi-'oue; iiere. i he conjurint;
drum is loud and ineciisant tu-uiLiht ait veil as i.ul le^ht.

,^■•. ST A'li/usl \'. — Lovely murning. Made nii < arl v sti'it. winding anainil lakes
I nibosonieil in a well w oodevl chain • ( tiilN <'\t!'nding from the (ireat to the
Little I'lineliwooil range, sneecedcd by a be.iutifal level country emhr.ieing
Miiii'h good land. Crossul niiny intervals of prairie and hill eountrv blending
altei'iialelv into each other, and rested betwixf t.io likes, one of llicin one
mill' II liaaieti r. (iood land, .^o sail • sod -een yet, east of the Heart
Hill. I. i-slioppers tlyiug. 'rraver: id and water .-.--..

No SS , Auf/usl ]i<. — Ki .niiied the survey at sunrise. Crossed a very beautiful undu-
lating country. Miiiy small lakes. .Vspeiis on the ridges (i-!l inches in
diameter. Killed .i I'ldger at the noon halt. Cro.ssed a stream with a rapid
current cunnectiug vi.o lakelets, and camped in a tieeless valliy lilled with
I long rich grass. I'lni pasturage enuMliy. Picturesi|ue scenery. Soil light
I oil the riilges. Ititli v- ijetable mould in the Hats. Herbage very rank.
I Numerous liailger boles .......

No. fs<j I Aui/Hsl 19. — Set out ut ;>. I .^ a.m. 'I'herinonicler Hi". Heavy westerly wind.
CiiNsed iiiiKiv grassy -Ireainlets eonnectriig chains of ponds, and entered
] upon
long

lakelets. Much heautitiil meadow land, (ioud gras'v fine soil, (j iss-
hoppers (lying. Iiilcrsected at noon the triil from I'ort I'elly to thi'(iu'.Ap-
pclle .Mission. Traversed in the iilternoon a treeless rolling prairie strewn
here and there with small bnulilers, and extending to the horizon in every
direclion. except on the sooth and south-west, where the wooded ranges of
I File .Mountain and I'leasant Hill interrupt the uniformity of the outline.
Camped on a line nieadaw encomgiasscd by round hillocks and lakelets

Si>. 'M I Augunt 'JO.— Heavy dew List night. Uiforo making the noon halt to-day, four

■ creeks and several dry valleys were crossed. Tbese streams run with a

1 swift ciirrifiit and unwater a very tine gra/.ing country with much arable land.

j Cuniped at sunset in a beaiilifiil hilly district, studded with littli! aspen

t blurt's, (iood grass, Water in marshy hollows - - . .

No. !)1 I Aui/nsl '21 On the trail at sunrise. Tniversed u high rolling country until

j n aching Little Cntarm Creek, an aflluent of tlie Uu'Appille, '20 feet broad
I and 1,1 tcet deep at the ford. Continued across a heauiii'iil o|ien prairie
surrounded by aspen groves and grassy knolls, and dined upon fording
llig Cuturm Creek, another tributary of the QuAppillc flowing in a deep
valiiy. (iuo:! grass and aspen clumps at camp. Water in sinull swamii-.

Su :>iilt>». ; St. Mill's.

beaniiMl woodless country with an nnduluting .surface covered with
\iiig grass. Halted for two hours amidst innumerable ponds and

Soil light uiid poor on the ki

III rid"

ShMic excellent l.md in the

hullo

id Huts

;i;iis LVt-sl

:!0'l() ; 1KC91

M .-.(I i ■.'()!>• 41

'>.->■ r,o , '2:)f!)l

.'■f;i.5 'J.V)\s(i

'27 (0 L'.s(j\s(;

•2VV} 1 311 "20

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION,

163

I, dislancu

K(irt
ii Is Come.

St. MWiin.

No. 92

l.->i-Hl

No. !' I

August 22. — Hoar frost tliis n nrninf;. Lefl cHmp enrly, pursuing iiii easterly
course towardii ii " pilot Iiill," (■ailed " Nome one Knocked, " or the .*Spy Hill.
This conical elevation of gravel and xnnd attains nn altitude ol' ]'}() feet
ahove the prairie, anil is the site of old Fort Cntarin. East of thi' S[iy Hill
the trail runs nearly parallel to, and not far Ironi the Qu'Appelle valli y, and
the country deteriorates in ■ iiaraeter, the soil heijig sandy, and the herhage
indiH'iTent. After the noon halt, four hours' tr.ivel over a sandy prairie
skirted liy sand duiu's brought the train to tlie .\ isiiniihoiiie near its con-
fluence with tlie Qu'.AppelJe. Fordid the .\ssinn.l)oine anil pitched camp
on its rich alluvial Hals .......

-.'«h«a7 2:I. — Moved catiip to the nioutli of Heaver (reek. The division re-
iiirning from a survey of the Kidin;; .Mountain, tlie Little Saskatchewan, ilc,
.^oon made its appearance and joined this train afier an absence of five weeks.
The greater part of to-day occupied in making observations

8i. .MiU'i.

.Si. .MiU'>.

;!.'!n'7R

roo I .'j:i(i'7K

1KI-*9I

20!> •+1

2:)f!U

•IVJ'Sli

'JS(j'S(i

I sirsc

(XI.)

fll >M KOiU' KI.I.ICK KAsrW'AllD TO I'llAlllli: I'OU lAlif. AMI SIU.KIIIK SKni.K.MlCN f, VIA Till'

.MUD II I veil Til A 11..

Ciini

No. ;•!•

.Mill) Triuk, (li^l.incc

r.:;i —

l*ri'tftltn<^

N'o. !>.')
Nil. ;iii
No. \i~

Nil. !W ;

No. 99

Aiiijiist 2\, — .Struck tents early. The train — which is now a comliinatinn nf
the ilivisions that separated .it llu' (iii'Appi'lle .Mission iiii '_'()th .Inly- sfartcil
iViiin the .Xssinnilioine and IUmvit .'reek inrks and eomnirneril tin- jniiniey
eastward for lied Kiver. over the trail wiiieh was surveyed wi'^tward from
its jiinetioii with tlie Wliite Mud Kiver trail nn -Olh tii^iird .Viignst. C'ainpvd
at sunset. Fertile eniiiitry, Tliiekets of aspi n. (inoil pasturni;e. I'leiily
of fresh water in pimds.

Aiifjusl 'I'j. — Took the trail at sunrise. The eonrses and distanees were not
repeated on this pnrlion nf the track, haviie.; Iiien already recorded between
camps 7(i and 79. ICtu'ainpeil at tlie usual lintir.

Aiii/ial 'Hi Inilirway in fore snnri>e. ( rossed alternate open woodlands .mil

prairies stnililid w itii beaulilid lakes, the haunts of vast {locks nf waterl'nwl.
(liHid soil. IC\nlieranl vegetation. Fine gra/.ing or tarniiiig country.

Aiii/iist 'J7. — Miirning cold and frnsty. lee no water. Tents fnizen. Ueaelied
the ti'.iil forks (.'jO'SO inihs from Fort Flliie) at 7. 15 a.m.. and eoiniiieneiil
the survey nf the I'pper or W liite Mud Uiver (rail, pursnitit: a north-eastiily
course liver an open nndulatin;,' pi.iirie. Kesteil liir two hiiiirs at a marshy
pond in a disliiet nf giMid pa-tniage. Crns-eil a tract nf tine rolling land
with a priifiisinn nf fresh w.iter pnnils, mil pitehi d e imp at Minset iipnn a
level area woniied with large detai'hi-il ilnmps ot' poplar. Snil, rich sandy
loilin. iSubsod every when" gravelly clay. (Jnod wnnd, water, and griiss

Auijuxt 'iH. — Stalled at -la. in. .\ tier 'J' l.T miles tr.ivel the train crossed the
trail nf tlie divisinii which passed nver this distriel on l.'itli August, whilst
surveying the l.illle .Saskatchewan. Tlireailid inroiigli a dense jungle of
poplars, willows, roses, and twining plants, until naching llie Little Saskat-
chewan, where a halt was called for breakliisl, tipnii fnrding llie stream at
7 .1.111. Kiver (i.S fei t wide. ;( feel deep, eurreiit .'U miles an lunir. N'alli y
UX) feet deep, and 1-i a mile broad. Long waving grass in valley, with a
most luxuriant underwood of eheriy, nianle, and Inuel. .After leaving the
valley the trail leads through a dense forest nf poplar and whiteHniiil — the
trees geneially tall and straight, and averaging IS inelies to 'J feet in diameter.
Halted at nmin upon a small open bpacc aHording good grazing and water.
Crossed live streamlets issuing from the Kidiiig Mounluiii, along the snutliern
flank of which the trail now lies. Camped upon a tract of burnt land thickly
covered with oak stumps sprouting again. Fine farming laud, (irass good,
but ill small areas ....-..-

Auffu.1t 2ii. — This day being .Sunday, the train did not leave camp till S 'HO a.m.
Traversed u gently undulating country covered with low willows and burnt
oaks. Soil, rich sandy loam. Halted at iiuon upon a nearly level prairie
covered wiili rich grass and lirilliani llimer-, encoinpissed by light .ispen
groves on tlic s luih.and a close forest of pnplar extending to the summit of
the Kidiiig Mountain on the north. Crossed a sluggish brook, and after
traversing a tine grazing country, came upon the White Mud Kiver. Con-
tinued along the north bank of this river until sunset. Ueautifnl country.
Excellen' wnnd and pasujii' land. I'lie vadey tiinbereil vMtli balsam, poplar,
uspcii, oak, maple, and ash ......

X 2

lore

Klliii'.

.Si. .Mil. i

7.VS0

.TtK) yti'HO

2:r0O i 119'80

164

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

No. 100

No. 101

No. 102

No. 103
No. 1(H

August 30. — Rniiiing cniiip cnrly, tlio trail was rrsiimcd nt dnyliglit. Wcndcil
througli u clnxe wood of pophir witli intcrviUn of trut prairie and good liiiy
ground. Made the morning lialt of two hourn nt'iir ii rich wet meadow, upon
which tlio nniniiils fed greedily. Continued tlu> j. irney «cro»» ii fine country
dpnacly covered with sapling poplar, except alouc ihe track. Saw two jumping
deer. Much white elllnresceiice along the pari.. Forded White Mud Itiver
nt noon, and journeyed d southern liank lor soniu niile.< through a tine

t'urniing country. Sugar mapu- l'ore«ts alternating with large areas of un-
usually long and luxuriant grass. Kecrosscd White .Mud Kiver, kept along
and camped on its north hank, l^niiles from the ford. Level lajul. Kieli
soil. Fine gras' od. The river .xT feet wi<le, V (eet deep

Atuiust'M. — 'Var' ■ ,y start, and proceeded along the norlli bank of the
White Mud I • jefon. Traversed a very line .igrlcnilural country,

diversified wi ifnl woodhunU and extensive open meadows, (irasi

and many varie.. of plants wonderfully luxuriant. After travelling !f'!5
miles the train recrossed the river, «hil.<t a division einh irked in canoe to
make a track survey of tlie strenn to its inciuth. Tlie train JDurueyed .TiO
miles farlhir, and camped to await the riturii of the canoe party i'rnui Lake
Manitobah. In crossing K;it Creek just before c.niiping, all tlie hcnses stnek
in its deep miry bottom. The canoe dctaelnneiit, in descending White .Mud
Itiver to Lake Maniloliah, a ilistanci' of l,>'.S;) niihs by its mcandcrings,
startled vast numbers of ducks and otliir walcrfuvl. The portion of the
river examined in canoe is a fine large stream (lowing in a broad level valley.
The width of the river incri\iscs from "Ofeet to MOfeet at its month. Depth,
from r> to 7 feet. IJefore dehonching into Lake .Manitobah it ree. ives Kut
Crec^k, a tributary rising in the S ind Hills on the Assiiiniboine a little west
of Prairie I'urtagc. Another division made a detour from camp to Lake
.^Llnitollah and brought back the eanue on a carl. Traversed in returning
a line level hay country, with occasional cranberry marshes and " oak open-
ings." Passed two log shaetics. Plenty i:f long rich grass and siiiiHowers,
but a scarcity of lire-wood at c.inip . . . . .

September 1. — .Moved camp early and continued up Itat Creek about two miles,
tlienee proceeded soutli-easterly across an open levil prairie with long rank
gross growing on a surface soil of rich clayey loam. riience coiitiiined for
a considerable distance alongside of a dry valley five chains wide, iutcrsecling
a level treeless plain, and leading towards Luke Manitobah. Crossed sever.il
other dry valleys ramifying from tins ancient watercourse into a vast wood-
less prairie, and struck the Ited River trail at noon a ipiartcr of a mile west
of the site of cump 1- of .lune 17 and 18 — I'rairie Portage.

To old camp (♦), I'rairie Portage - - . - .

September '2. — Left Prairie Portage for .Selkirk Settlement, rii'i the Lane's Post
and While Horse Pl.iiii trail running north of the .Assinniboine.

September ',i. — I'pon the trail early. As this trail is that wliieli was traversed
by the train whilst outward bound in June, the return track survey was dis-
continued at I'rairie Portage, and each day's travel from thence tu Ited Itiver
is not recorded.

Sejitrmber i. — .Arrived at Selkirk .Settlement. To Fort Garry

Hi. .Miln.

Fort

Klllcc.

St. Mill'!.

23'00

liiHO

Ifli."

I,-;!l'l.5

I(>".'i.j l7(i"(K)

.';»;• 1 1

(XII.)

FtlO.M FOUT A LA COHNi; TO SEI.KIItK SF,TTI.i:.MENT, VIA THE MAIN SA.SKATCIIEWAN AND THE

WEST COAST OF LAKE WINNIt'EG.

Can

No. lO."! ; Aiiffi"t9. — Completed a scries of obstrvations. and, embarking in a small
liirch-rind canoe with two voyagvurs at 11.30 a.m., resumed the track
i survey of the Saskatchewan. Paddled steadily, and maintained an average
velocity of 5.^ miles an hour as heretofore, being aiilcd by the unilornily
swilt current of the river. In sweeping round the gig.iiitic bays on alter-
nate sides ot the river, many turbulent rills were observed emptying the
drainage of the upper plateaux down the face of the high clay bluffs into the
.Saskatchewan. Passed through a tumultuous current in rounding some of
the points, caused by stony slialiows extending into the river at these places.
Camped on a low stony |)oiut, an hour alter passing the last of the clay clill'g
coming out upon the river, line country for farming ; well wooded with
large aspen, ImLsuni sjiruce, and jioplar. I'lenty of dry driftwood lining the
brink of the river ----....

Miiiii Track, (li»tiuu-e
from—

I'rMctling I Fort
Cnnip. h la ( 'ornf.

I. .Mill's.

23 '06

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

163

Cump.

Main Track, dliuinca
frii™ —

k. Mik,

No. lOT)

No. lo:

H-'HO

No. lOH

No. 109

\''.i-\.',

No. no

i:rr(H)

N... Ill

!:i(i-ll

No. 112

liataiu'e

Fort
» ( 'ornp.

. .Milt-

No. 113

No. Ill

No. 11.5

3-06

IVcreding
Cuinp,

Si. .MiliV

Fort
k la Come.

76" 10

Auffutl 10. — Uoccnded, Boon after vtnlmrkiii); to-day, nevcrnl Bmnll nipidi, at
tlie pointfi. Altliougli tlanc so-calii'd rapiili flow very aiviflly and wlili con-
lidcrubln turbulence, they woiil^l nut oli>truct the navigation of the river, aa
they are only on one side of, uiid do not nileet the main oliunnel, which ia
quite tran(|nil and deep. I'nsaed numerous inlands, and camped ut auniiet
on a low and rich nlliiviid Hut, thickly wooded. Country well adapted for
agriculture. .Mud Ihits in the river - - - - - S;l'10

Aui/ustM. — .Started at 1,10 a.m. Itiver nometinipx spreudx to a width of i
upwards of { of a mile, and meanders liy neveral cImiineU aiming large ,
wooded inlands, durrent swil't. rreijiieiit .sand bars and KiiiiffK, water mark I
'J feet higher than present level. 'I'reea along ihe hank much scratched by
iee. Very lich alluvial land bordering the river, well limbered with poplar,
birch, u>peii, Hpruce, \c. Many islands. Water very muddy. Violent
thunderstorm and rain 111 night ...... KCJ? 12.1' 13

Aiifiml \'l. — Hesmiied the voyage at day. break. The current is bceoming j

slacker, being now 'i> miles an limu. Hanks lower ami ninre lightly lini- |

bered. Many large snugs and sawyers. Iteaehed liiu Stone Kiver at noon.
I'roeeeded to IVniicaii I'nrlage. I ' 10 miles faither down, and c. imped. I'lnts , {

covered will) willows and alders. Poplar, nA\, elm, sugar maple, and ^pruce
along the margin of the iver . . . . . - l.'i)'.'l.5 \5'^^9■

Aiif/Ufl l.'l. ■ Crossed from Ihe S.iskateliewan to Cimibcrland House, vii'i
I'einiean Portage, a distance of l'S(iniiles. Had to pass through a great
reedy marsh 1] miles across. Water '2-;) feet deep. .Some good land in the
inmiediate vicinity of Cumbcrluiid.

August H.~('iim(irrl(inil llnuse. — liemained lure to-day, in order to pro.
cure a new yj-ralhoni canoe «lii<h was in jirocess of eonstriielion. Saw
Messrs. Stewart and Andersmi, geiillcmon in the service of Ihe Il'in, I

Ilud.soirs Day Ccanpaiiy, who went in search of Sir John I'ranklin in iH.l'i, !

and descended Hack's (ireat I'isli Itiver to the Aretic Sea in bark eainies. j

Aiiriiitl \'>. — ('uinheitdiiii llnii.ir. — 'I'd-day hi itig .Siind.iv, alllioiigh all pripara- \

tions were eoinpletiil fir starting, the journey wis not resumed. line '

weather. Cold at night. Miisipiitois lieeoniing li'ss nnmenius. {

Aiitjust \l\. — Left Ciiniberlaiid at !( a.m. and reached the .Suskatehrwan after
(i'J.') mile>' paddling through liig Stone Itiver. Passed tin' beginning of
I'emiean Portage (Camp lOS) at noon. .Madi' several observations to aseer- I

tuin the volomi' of water and fall of the Suskatcdiewaii, iicHr eanip. ■{■•'M miles !

below Tearing ItivcT or Ifl'.'iS from I'emiean Portage. Hanks very l"W and
Hat, covered with willows and scrub poplar. Itiver frequently impedeil by |

sand bnri., mud Huts, and shoals. Mean current t\to miles an hour. Itaiii
iluring the night ..-...-- i;>:i,s l-lKti

Aiij/iiil 17. — I'.mharked at i a.m. and passed I'ishing WeirCreek after 1^ hours' |

paddling. (Ilideil aniid.'.t a iiuiuber of heantil'ul islanils before pa-sing the
Itat Itoot carrying jilaei', an Indian pitching trail hading to lakes norlli of
the Saskalehewau. Swept swilily round the liig Heiid, and rested for all !
hour after passing a poilion of the river which bears a strong resemblance
to llainy Itiver, only the banks are niuch loner and not so well wooded. [
Drifted past While I'i.sli Creek and arrived at llie Pas at .sunset. I'amped
near Christ Church - - • . - - - Ki'IO

Awjitit IS Left the Pas this inorninp. After travelling n short distance, came

to a elumni'l forking otf from the main river and forming a chord to one of
its great benus. Whilst at the noon rest, near a branch leading lo Moose ^
Lake, a strong south wind arose aeconipanied by rain. Passed Muskrat
Island, u very largi' island abounding in muskrats, and conseipieiitly much
resorted lo by Indians. ,\fler landing lo euinp, a thanderslorin and heavy
rain eume on. .Mu h hay ground on the Hats in lear of a light belt of brush-
wood lining the river, but country is now altogether too low and swampy for ,
agricultural purposes. Saw beaver, muskrat, and black fox to-day - - I'y-^iii

August I!). — Courhc now lies through Ihe great alluvial delta of Ihe Saskat-
chewan. Embarked early and soon passing Marshy Lake, entered a labyrinth
of intricate r.uiiiheations ol the main river reticulating anudst vast muddy
Hats and shallow marshes. Camped a feu miles below .Muddy Lake, on the
last spot ot dry ground to be found before entering Cedar Lake. Willows
and grass for fuel. Many sunken shoals and snaus. (.'hanuels very shallow 3.5 '50

August '20 Started from camp at the usual hour and entereil Ci'dar Lake alter '

'2' 70 miles' travel. Coasted ahmg the north shore sometimes betwixt islands
and sometimes making long traverses across deep hays. Lncauiped at (i p.m.
on a narrow point Irom wheiiee u contrary wind prevented farther progress . 21 '(iO

August '1\. — Left cump at daybreak. I'.ntcred tlie reeomniencement of the
.Saskatchewan east of Cedar Lake at nomi. Saw some buildings just erected
by the ll(ui. Hudson's Hay Company on the banks of Ihe rivi r, lor a trading
post (Cedar Lake House). Soon arrived at Cross Lake Uapid, and after an
hour's work in levelling and measuring the rapid and portaging, made the
traverse of Cross Luke. Proceeded down the river till reaching the foot of
the teeond rapid cast of Cross Lake at dusk. .Met a brigade of boats bound

X .-J

i\--m

213 21

2"fi-71

298-31

: ■!

it !

166

RKPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Camp.

No. 1 1(1

\.). 117

N,..

Nn,

ll.'l

No. I 'JO

No. r.'l

Xo. 1'.

No. !■_';!

No. I'.'t

No. 1 '.'.-)

No. I2(i

No. Ij.

lip, (ionil timbrr nnd aoiiic ^ooil clay liinil ninnif tliR margin of river,
Ilori/.iintal llnu'!'toiif ('rei|ii('iilly cxposi'd - - . . .

.tiii/ti.it '^'2. — lirarlu'il the Hiiinmil of llic (iranil Kapiil at !) u,ni. Occii|)ic(l
xi'vrii lioiii'4 III li'Vi'lliii); anil making a iirvcy nC the rapid, ax wrll a» por-
ta^inu', < '^alIlinln^ tlui ruck I'oriiintioii, ski'tcliili);, anil tii iklri;; a ({ciiiMal ri.'con-
nai>s:im't', uiii tlin Iiiwir portion ol' tlii' raplil anil arrlvrilat the iiiouth of
the ."^.iiikalihcnvaii at (I p.m. (diitimii'il '.'SO iiiilc* farther iiloiiK the coast
of Lake Winnipeg; anil eanipeil at dark - ■ . . .

Au;/ii»l 'J:l r.iiiliarkid ami resiiineil the tiael survey at daylight. C'ro.Hiied a

niiceoxioii of deep fnniu'l-iihaped bays, hranehiii^ into a Hal swampy country,
and halird to cook iliiiMcr at the nick of (";ipc Kilchiiiashi. Tiacked from
thciicc to the extremity of the cape and camped liitc, Olmerved theiiiapietic
dcviuti'in. Coant rompoiieil of open inarshm in fiont of a vii»t litmcruo nnd
upriicc swamp . . . - . . .

Aiiiiiisl 'Jf. — A'h /•'«/(■ ai Minrise. Coasted alonj{ iiiilil rearhipu theOull UlniidK
at I p.in.,»lii'o a violent easterly iviiid arose and prevented farther pro^resD,
Cainpeil on one of the islands three miles IVoin in.iinland. No hooiI

Aiiyiisl 'J,') Di'taioi'd hy contr.iry nind until 'J p,m. I'lishcd on to the next

island and tluiice to a point on the mainland, and laniped on a narrow lieach,
sepaiatid, as usual. Iroiii the yrcal t.mierai swamp hy a wide marsh. V'oleiil
tliiindei'stomi at noon, willi lli^ll wind and heavy rain, riicomnioiily b illiunt
aurora at niiilil -.--....

Auijiisl J'i .'same camp. I'nable to stir from camp tn-day in cnni<e(|uencc of

u violent and very cold N.W. wind which arose in the night and conliiiueit
for 'J I- hour-, laisint; a wonderlidly tempestuous sea upon the lake.

Aiii/iisl '27. — (iot lid' at dayliulit. 'roiiched at an exposure of liinestone nod
colh'iteil some nr^'anic remains. Mad to put into the estuary of a rivulet,
alfordm^slielicr for canoes or boats, for I'oiir hours, in eooseipieiice of a brisk
oppo'i.i),' wind wliirh spraiif; up. The wind inereasiii);. eoinpelled .i night
camp alter creepio;: alonn the shore a few mill ^ farther. Lake separated
as before. Ironi a boundliss swamp. Iiy a narrow sandheaeh strewn with
dritlvuiod ....---..

.tiii/iist ..'H. — Left last ni^'ht's bivonae at the usual hour and made the iiiioii halt
at Warpalli Itiver. Alter verifying the rate ot eanoe by a standard measured
alonj; the biaeli, the course was rcsuniid. Made ^rea' proiireiin by tracking
along the coast and camped opposite Caribou 'sland ...

Aii'/iisl 'J'.l Started at dawn. Itestei! at I, lines. one I'oint alU'r making some

wide traverses against a strong contrary wind. This highly fossilifcrous
exposure alforded some good speeimens. .After rounding the point, had to
contend against a stronger wind and heavier sea iliaii before. After a
struggle of tw o hours in nn angry sea, reached n small sand island and cnmped

Auyust :iO. — .Succeeded in reaching the Little Saskatelicwan at 1 1 a.m.,
n'though the wiiiil coiitinneil all last night and this morning. Ascended the
river to the rapids and found there an cne.impment of Swumpys engaged in
tishing. A jiorlion of this Indian band had just returned from the (irand
Kapid. KeturiKil to the inoiiih ol' the river and camped iiIKt measuring its
volume of water, and penetrating into the gre.il muskeg Ihiougli which it has
excavated its way --•--...

AutjuM:i\. — Left the mouth of the river at ilaybreak. Continued paddling
steadily until it aching the coinineneemcnt of a broad Iraverse, when u very
Ktroiig head wind compelled a halt. A vast wildernetis of swainpH and
iiiarslies as heretofore ..-.-..

Seittfiiil/er I . — Lmbjrked early nnd crossed .Mnntagao Seehe Hay undrr suit, in a
high rolling sea. The wind became so violent and opposing that it occasioned
u detention of six hours after making this traverse. Still the same intermin-
able muskeg and niar.sh. Hy forcing five hours against tlie wind, I'oint Wig-
wam was reached at fi p.m., where a camp was formed in the li-e of u few
stinted willows growing in a patch of sand surrounded by n vast iimrBli

Seplemher 'i, .3. nnd \. — Same camp. Windbound three dayii and nights by
a violent nnd euntinuons hurricane from the N.N.VV. which raised a moat
tempestuous sea upon the lake. I'emican almost exhausted — have to live on
short allowance. Sustained iimch cold and rain, having no tent uiid no
wood.

Seplemljer 5.— Got off at last. Wind more moderate but still contrary. Passed
the Hushkega Islands and contended with the wind, until an attempt to round
I'oint Tiirnagain, compelled rather nn abrupt landing on a lee shore in a high
surf. ( olletted some specimrns here, from a tliin exposure of liinestone

Hijili iiil'cr li. — I'p at dayliieak, lint the M.iiddiil not moderate sudicieiitly to
permit ri-Hnbaik.ilion till '.) a.m. Coasted and tracked against the wind,
rouiiil Lynx lli ; and made a meal upon sand cheriies at noon. Hounded
the Cat Head • . two o'clock nnd continued on until n high contrary wind
blowing across Kinwow Hay compelled n sudden camp upon .Macbcth's
J'oiiit, a n irrow lioulder-proinontory so c.illed from a " lop.stick " made by
that person ........

Miiln Trscii.iliilance
! from -

I PrtcnllnK I'nrl
I C'iiiii|i. jt U Ciiriif,

S;. Mlln. j m. Mitm,
'27 (K) i .'I'ZV.'il

ll'lil ' Mllfi'fW

« I

;il"J,s :!(iH-2o

'.'I- 10 ;mi;m

"•.'lO :i!(s-,so

I7-:i:i ' ll(i-i:t

Ml-.V) Hi) lilt

I.VjiT I 4fi3'60

G-L". , ■V72(l.-)

H) ♦7!)L">

lH-7.i I-9H-IH

7-70 i r>or>sH

15 26

521 H

SASKAIVHEWAN EXl'LOlUNU EXPEDITION.

167

C«in|>.

Nu< I'i7 Sepfemherl. — Same ciiiii|i. The Kale cunlimieil all ni){ht uml iiicreaied tu a

I pi'rCi'ct liiirrlruii:< ilurin^ the (liiy. rulitiiit; » »i'ii ii|»jii tliulnkt'in wliicli iiucitnov

I iniild liv(>. Si't iiiKU'i.'i for raliluts but caught iiotic. iMiii iliH|iiriU'(l \iy wnnt

(inoocl.

No. I'JH I Septemlirr K — I'uslu J utT In u lii'iivy hwcII tu iiiiikf tlic liiii|i Iravemu acrOM

Kliiwnw liny. Had > hiii' Idiiuli wet work in the middle of I'le truvi'me In

cnnHei|ilriu'e orii Hiidiii'ii ii|iiiill tliiit lilew up. Idaelii'd the Wicked I'uint

at nciiiii, when it strnii); raaterly wind arnte and i>li>|i|ied liirllii'i' pro^'reis.

Hand diiiUN. C'laiiherry niamhcH and swauipM, Clear and imnny during the

day. Anriira at nit^ht. (loudx rising . . . . ■

No. r.'f) Stplrmhrr \t. — The wind of yesterday having t'ullen C4iri»ideral)ly i l)y starting

early and punliing .ihing !<hori' in the lie. tlie I'ike Head uim reailieil at

l(l.:(() a.m. Aneeiided the .laek I'luh Kivii. and Kpeiit the day in repairing

I the weir aeriimi the river in order to eateli a supply of linh, if piis.iiblp. Itain

in the evening ........

.. Se/ilemlH'r 10. — Caught u supply uf fish last night, but did not resume tlie

voyage in eonsei|UPnri' of unfavourable wind. Kuined heavily all day.
No, l;l(> SrjilrHihcr \\, — A wel uiid stormy morning, uind blow iiig hard from the N.W,
I Set out upon the lake early, the wind being favourable and liaving moderated
a htth'. ICuii on under a blanket-sail till mar sun-don ii »hen tiie \tinil fi.'ll
altogether. Continued paddling until niglil set in, and eaniped on Louis
Island ill the innnlli of I'islnr Hay ......

No. l;ll SejileHilier \'2. — Up long before daylight preparing to start, but greatly dis-
appointed to (ind a sui.irt head wind bliiuiiig from Ihe south. Kinharked,
I liiiHever, at daybreak and worked steadily, although making little headway.
Crossed lo (ireal .Moose Island, and from iheiiee by several other wide tra-
verses to Wliiteway's I'oint and eaniped ai dark ....

No. I:).' Si'/ilim/MT I;). — Cro>sid from Wliiteway's I'liint to the Dog's Head and ran

along the east eii.ist ol tlie lake until passing l.iion's Straits. Ke-ernssed

Ihe lake fniin thenee to (irindstone I'oiiil. After examining and drawing

! the roek exposure here, continued on tu the Little (irindstone I'oint auil

eaniped very late ........

Nn. l.'):i .Se/ilimlirr It. — Started at ." a.m., and crept along shore, in the Ice and con-
tending with head wind alleniately, I'asscd liie (iraHsy Narrows and reached
the Sandy Bar at Nightfall, (iood boat harbour within the Sandy liar and
' «,ime good land reported in the vicinity . . . . .

No l:ll' Sinhiiihir \'i. — Moved nil liel'ore daylight. Cold 'iiorniiig. I'assed Drunken
Uiver and ran along a co.ist revelling tine clay banks well wooded wiih aspen.
I'nshcd on, after a short rest at the Willow Islands, and arrived ut the niuulh
of Ited Uiver at dark .......

No. I:<.'> .S'c/i^'in/jiT Hi.— Left Lake Winnipeg uc (i u.in., und arrived at the Middle
Settlement, lied Hivcr, at II p.m. ......

.Main Truck, ilUunc*
fruin —

Pri'imllng |
Ciini|i.

Ml. MiUi. fli. Mllw.

IV- Ui j .IDlliT

!)•.-);! I .)+<)• «t)

1 1 ' 1(1

•M'M

■:r,U)

.")'.'■'.!()

57'J'K)

()()7 ■.')()

'JH'SO I <i;!(j MO

l'2.-.0
:!.'!■ (K)

(iTS-HO
TIl'HO

(XIII.)

l-'tll).M sr.I.KIRK 8F.TTLEMKST SOUTII-KASTWAUU TOWAltDS I.AKK "F THE WOODS AND HACK, VIA I.A

IllVli-:!!!': KhlNl'. OH UKIIMAN i'KF.EK.

Camp.

No. ma \ Seplemhrr IN All the morning preparing for an exploration of the country

east of Ucd Itiver. Set out t'loni Ihe^liddle Settlement with a small ei|uip-
nient, und having procured some additional supplies at I'urt (iarry, crossed
the Assinnibuine anil Ucd Hivcr, and eaniped a mile fniin a bridge over La
Riviere Seine. Fine night. Very warm.
Sejrientbir IJ). — Same camp (.Sunday). The horses having strayed during the
night, all humis were occupied to-day in seureliing fur tbem, but without
success. Kxtruurdiimry hot day. A reddish thick haze, like smoke, in the
atinospliere. Large (lucks of geese Hying to tliu south, laiineiise Hocks uf
lilack-birds (the crow) Hying tu the I'outhulso.

Nu. I.'i(> Se/ilembir '20. — Very cold murning. The horses and mule were brought Into
camp early. Started at 11 a.m. tu follow the picket line run fur the purpose
of lueatiug u ruad lust year. Camped after uccuiuplishWig H miles, about
two-third.s uf which lies uiidei' water averaging IH inches deep. Small
islands or low ridges bearing young osiers and aspen, scattered here and
there through extensive wet prairies. I'ascines and side ditching would be
requisite on the greater portion of the located line traversed to-day.

X 4

Miiiii Tr(tck,ili^iaiK-f
fruin —

IVi'i-LHling
[ C'lnnp.

I'ort
Oarry.

Si. .Mili .. I'sT. Miie*.

168

Ulil^OinS 01' THE ASSINNIUOINE AND

Camp.

M.iin 'I'rui-k, iliiiNiico

No. i:t7

Nu. l;iH

No. ID!)

No. 110

No. 141

No. IIJ

No. li:i

PrfMilIng
('•nip.

M. Mlln.

Srpltniliir 1\. — Very toM Iiihi iii^'lit iiiul \nt thin inoriiinn. I'rmlili' tii itliirt
until H o'l'l.ii'k ill riiiiHi'f|iU'n('i< ol' ilii' litiivv miii. Miitif ili'tcmrH rioin tlii'
pii'kct lint' hull In lii' iii.iili' In-ilny in iiriliT In i^rl tin' iiiiiiniilK in'riiKi tlii'
Iiiiii'ilir4 iinil i|Uii^niiii'ii tlinniKli uliiili it |>uii^c'ii. I'riiiicil to an iHliinii
o|>|i(iiiii<' till' '."Jiiii niilf |iiiKt, liiit a i|ua);iiiii'i' livymnl, iiiipiiiMihlu lor citlirr
iiii'ii or liornt'i, pri'vi'iiti'd liirtliiT ailvaiu'iiiiint. 'riirni'il limk and i'aiii|H'il
mar Haiiio plarv an laat tiij^lit. Very liail ^roiiml for liiirni'*. Suit anil lull
ul'talUn ln);.i, .\ Iidiko iitnlcr a lart Irll fiiiir tiiius in about .10 )'arila.

Sr/tlembrr '22. — Ciilil iimrniii({ — urouml ipillc «liili', Vury coM liiKt ni^lil.
■Started I'urly anil iTacliril llit' baiiki nt' Itcd Itivvr at noon. INtclicil vtiinp
bt'iidi' the iilil truck iind iiiudc prepnratiuni to tct out attain.

Siptr.'iififr 'J'i. — Hark I'loiiily ninrniiiK. Drovr tlio aninial'i into rnnip nt dny-
liinik, Siiirtt'il at (i.'JO a. in., anil piimncd a S.K. rourm' iiliiii); ii );oik1 trail
{railing OMr liiif riili luiul. Stoppril luo linnrii to fi'i'd at l.i'){i'nirnairi''ii
Mill on till' liiiiikH III' l.a Uivltrr Srini' (or (irriiian Cri'ik |. Triivi mi'il a
Ktrai^tht dry irark riiniiiii)j liy tlii' nidi' of (iiTinan Crrik lor konn' iiiilrn and
lirai'ly the wliolt' iliiitaiu'i' tiiroufjli ii cnuiitry lit lor mttli nii'iit, partiinlarly
nt Oak Cri'rk (wliiri' i'aiii|i is pitilud to-ni(;lit), tliiri' liiin« pli'iily ol'tiri'-
Wood and oaks MiHirlinlly iar|;i' lor biiildinj.' [iiirpo>i'ii. Itiili loamy toil. Has
bi'i'n un opprrssivt'ly hot day

Srfilrmbfr 'H. — I.i'l't Oak Creek uml eontinucd aoutherly arrosH an extcniive {

tract ol' prah'ie land ultli oieasional Met places, but upon the iihole well '

nilapted lor a rouil and lor seillemrnt. Land exiellenl. \'i%'etatiiiii ,

Inxiiriant. I'leiily of woods, line hay and pa^turc nieadowii. (iood water.

uiiiped one iniic south uttiti'iiian Creek - • - ■ •

Sf/tlember IH Cloudy. Thunder in tlie iliatuncc. Wended llir<iu)(b a

lun^jcd jungle of osiera nod red willow eoncettliuK burnt logs of nspen, until
ri-aelilii); un extennive hvh hriili; tlirouj;!! which the carta could not be hauled
nn account uf the HiniHulls and the ({reut quantity ul prontruled burnt timber.
I.elt the eurts, and taking a l'ortni)(lit's provision> eontinueil the survey with
pnck-horaes. Made slow progrena ulung the valley ot (iermaii Crcpk thruugh
n close t'orot lit' hurut linilier. .Soil litihter, lint still good iind dry. 'I he
billhook uml a\e is all that is iiipnrcd lor niakiii); a road here. Observed
tor lutitudv und variation •■■....

Srplimher 'iC'. — Uesumid thejoinney up (iirniaii (^reek, tiaversiiif; a country
with lighter soil and tinilur, liiil still snppnrting Inxnriaiil ve;;rtalioii, and
well adapted tiir a load. lliid;;ed a erei k and ei'osxil mie or two marshes
on accoiiiit ol the thickness ol' the lorcst, hut a dry road could he loi aled in
the hins ftntlr. Tliick grovi h of e\ press, spruce, vouni; aspen, and willow.
Camped at a place where the wood became so ain.^/i \i\y dense and su
strewn wiili fallen logs that puck-horses could not force their w,iy tliruugli.
Cloudy und ruiny ........

SijilfmljiT '1'. — Mept litiuntli some Larue balsnm-spruce and poplar last ni;;hl,
and rising this morning lielore sunrise, started on lout to make an alleinpt to
reach the Lake uf the Woods. Itcuched I. a Uiviere Seine alter much toil-
some climbing and scraaibling over high lie.ips iif tullen trees lying in every
direction. Here (he Indian guide ( I'enisi, "the little bird') came to u hill,
and, although tempting offers were made to him, he coiil'.l not be persuaded
tu go farther, having reached the houndavy of the lake of the Woods Indian's
country. On this account, as well as owing to the nature of the country — •
there being u tamarack nod cedar swamp from hence 1.5 miles wide, which
would take three days to cross un foot before arriving at the next dry ground
— it was deemed expedient to return .....

September 28. — Ketravcrsed the tract of country examined yesterday and tiie
day before and camped near Murin's house, the nucleus of u new settlement
beginning, at the crossing place of I.u Uiviire Seine.

Srptrmbfr 2U. — Korded La Uiviere .Seine und followed a good trail leading a
considerable distance north of the river. Crossed a dry level prairie with
much good land. Itcsti^d an hour und a half at u portion of the river rising
in a marsh and flowing by the side nt' a tamarack und spruce swamp. Con-
tinued along u good track passing occasionally tlirougli willow marshes and
wet meadows. Camped near the aiteofvamp 135. Goud pasturage and
bay ground.

iMdO

'.'OIX)

Port
(larry.

H(. Mlln.

■JO' 00

40 OO

.Ol'tX)

11 (X) I (i.VOO

4'(H) 69'00

SASKATCHKWAN i;Xl'L()IUN(i EXPEDITION,

1G9

• iliiunn

Kurt
•'•rry.

'*■. Mlln.

(\l\'.)

;()(K)

t)(K)

•(K)

rnoM UM> nivtii wkhtwaiiii Ai.oN't

MOUNTAIN — 'IIIKNCK ACMOsm TIIK.
NIHOINK 'I'D IMIAtllll: I'cim'AliK.

( 'amii.

IV IIIVl(:llK. HAli:— I'llI'M't: HOUTH-WliHIUAItll I'D I'KUIIINA
III.UR Hill.'* or TIIK Hilt'lllN — TIIRNCK Al'IIOKM Till', AUIN-

Mitrn Truck, ilUlAiti'v
ftulll—

No. 146

Ni.. 1+7

No. H«

No. 1 1!)

No. !.->()

No. 1,-)1

No. Ij2

•SV^i/c/h/kt !I0.— .Vi ry ciilil Iiki iiIkIiI. Stnuk ininp (ll.'ii iiiiil iiinvi'd llic
Irulii iii'tii»B Id llir Went xiili' 111 lliu rlvir, to ((hiiiiicih i- ,im t'X|iloriiliMii of tlit'
country 111 Irtcrii tlir Amitinilioini' ami llir I'nilid SI.iIck iVontiir. I'm-
('<!i'<U'>l iiliiii); till' I'rnililiia tin I lor alxiiil live inilct, mill ('iiiii|iril. I'lni'
fvriiiiitr. .SiilJcrii ilrawiiij; tin ir in l« in llic river ....

fhliilirr \. — ll'.'uvy lain liiwiinln iiiiii niii;. I. ill llir I'rinliiiia trail ulicri' it
illtrrmrlii l.ii lliviiri' Sali' !)" I.'i iiiilr-> 1111111 I''imI (iinry. I'riirriiliil ii|i llic
•oiitli Imiik III' l.ii Uivirrr >Siilr, acrovH a In iiiitil'iil ll'ilili' praiiir, anil ri liil n|
11 hiiiil 111 till' river wliorr tliere iiio iiuiiierniK xalt s|iriii(,'i. ('aiii|iiil I'.'
Illileii rriiiii till' nioiitli iil' llii^ rivii, mi a iii;i;;nilii'i'iit trei Iriiii level |irairie,
l''ilie l.iriiiiii)i anil paiiliire laml, Tlie liver v.ilil* plenty iil'lixli, ami knariiii
ttilli iliii l> anil ;;ei'Ke at rert liii nea^nii-. Ilaa lieeii an iinpleamiiilly linl ilay.
A miioky iippeiiriiiii'i' all aroiiiiil ..•-..

<^7»/»r.'. -Minli rain last \wf\\\. .V ilai k, I'lj-Ky, warm iiinriiini,'. .Iniiriii yeil
on rioiil pinnt 111 piiiiil III' the river, » liit li ii ihiw larger, anil ineiiliili is, uilli
a margin iil lar^eeliii anil oak. tliiiiii^li a linuiiilliiii npi n prairie. Travi meU
to-day a» «i II a» yenti iilay a very lieaiiiiliil ami In tile iliilriet, imml miiialili'
lor a nettle i ent, e-peeiiillv iiimi:; tlie liver. «liere tlie tinilier i- very (;ii(iil.
I'oiiHiKtin^ iliiilly of oak, liilt lliiTe U aUii iiiiuli elm anil ai>li, \ Kliativ
iiiiiirin); rain eaiiie iin <it It) a.m., ami i impelleil an early ramp near L.-uiilrie «
lioUM' ami liiriii, a pionerr Mltlenieiit nn the liaiiki nt' I, a Kivi! re SaV\ alioiit
'jn iiiiie*! Iroiii itHiniiiilli ......

(hhthir :l. — (ill at iinnntily ol' rain (ell l.ul ir 'lit anil tliin iiiomiiiK. Wiiiil liif-li
Uliil veiv eiilil. Lilt canip anil enntiniuil dose aliiii'„' tlie river until reaeli-
iti|{ a point uliere it 1.1 ern^^eil by the laillaln Iniiti r.' trail, leiiiliiii; 1111111 the
White llorKe I'laiiiK lo Turtle Mount. liii. Tliere In iiiu' iiinneiiiiii iiiiiKke);ii
(liiar>lii'ii) lii'Miiiil this point, the eaili »ere lel'i here, an I a i'ei'oiinaii.<annc'
of the river mule mi horseliaek until reailiiiii^ a link ivliieli einihl not he
forileil, ami .iliove wliieli I, a Itiviire Sah' liei'oine* very Miiall. Ketiiraeil
anil eampeil at the eriioiii).' plaee. an the Inniter*' ir.iil. wliieli han tn lie
parmieil noH to I'lnihiini Muuntain, liiiilit aero's a liinimlleHu prnirie, upon
vvliieli wiMiil ami water eiinmit he ri iielieil to-iiij;lit ....

fA/KAcr t -'rook the hunter-' trail at (hivhreak anil eniilinui il aerii-« a niii»t
truly in.igiiilii ent treeli-MH praii i". Inxmianlly elotheil uilh hm^ vvavini^^rais,
uonilerliilly tliiek. Ite-.|eil liir two liinim at iinon liesi.le ;: eliimp ol' n iIIiihh,
hreakiii}; the niiimitony nl' an nnlioumli il oeeanlike plain. CrOKsed iil'ter-
vvaril* alternate wet anil ilry priiirien, until reaeliiii); I. a Itiviere il'Isle (lei
lloiy. Caiiipeil at huiisiI on tin- hank- of lliiit alHiient nl' Seratchiii); Kivcr.
Oliserveil liir latitiiile anil variation. Some wet lauil lure, hut iniieh that in
ilry anil exieUent. I'lentr ol'^'niul nak liinlier aloii); the river, lias heen u
loM ly il IV, hri^lit ami imiiny, hut riitlier rnlil ....

^.^YnAr'r :>. — -Uai-etl canip ami trii'*'^i'il I-i lliviere il'Isle lie-* niiiv, which in
\'i tee I »iile uiiil IHo Icit ilccp. 'I'raMiMil a line I'lnllc cmialry,
•prini'leil here an I there with eliiiiipi of yiiuii); a-peiui anil a lew oaks.
IJincil at \.a Itiviire 'laliae, aiuitlier i^inall trilintary uf .^craleliin<; liiver,
CoMtiuncd avross a line open piairie, anil pas-eil over the lied of art ancient
lake thrii-foiirtlis of a mile in diameter, t'rosseil some feeble streanilctii
ami the dry bids of uncieiit water-cour!>es hel'me cauipin;; at lattlu llridgu
Creek, a partially dry Hircain with iiiniiy nt.ignant dilatutiotis. Very 8toriiiy
and raiiiv at iiij,'lit --...-..

October (>.— Mnniiii); fhuidy ; eolil N.W. wind. Ueached the base of I'embina
Mountain or Kiiljio niter two niileii' travel friim l.ittlo l!riil<>e Creek, paat
open woods of oak, the coininenconient of "the (so-e.illed) liirent," wliicli
•tretehcs heiiee to I'rairic l'iii'la(;e. .X.-cciuled I'embina Mountain, wliicli Is
here nothing but a lon^' gradual ascent, or rather a sueiessioii of easy steps
rising from u lower pniiriu plateau to a more clevuied table land. The flank
of the " Mountain," front the base to the summit, is clothed with i^roves of
oak nnd aspen, and strewn uith innumerable boulders. Kntered upon the
" round prairie, ' after gaining the crest of the mountain. Here a solitary
half-breed, who had deserted I'i'ini a band of hutfalo hunters, came out of a
clump of willows, and looked with iisionislimpnt upon the train. Ilu was nt
first thought to be a Sioux spy. Crossed the "round prnirie," which
■eparates I'embina Mountain from the Ulue Hills, and halted at noon beside
a clump of oak separated by a lakelet from a high conical knoll called the
CnlCs Tent. I.ert the hunters' trail to I'embina, and commenced a westerly
course amidst thick clumps of poplar and willow. Poor grass and no water
at night camp, Hus been a miserable cold day ; frei|ucnt showers of sleet
with high wind .......*

PnicvJiiig
r»inp,

".<tl, .Mill..

Pin
Usrrjr,

Hi. ^mn.

fl'OO

1 1! '.'.'! '.'1 ".'.-.

S'OO '«)'2.'>

I loo W-'i.'!

-'7 '(10 I (i7-'J3

I 1!)'(X) I 86-25

19-50

105- 7.5

I ^

170

IKEPQRTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Cnnp.

No. ISH

No. 154

No. ]!^3

No. \n(i

Nu. l,->7

No. lob

No. l.-'i

Oclolier 7. — CoUl iiml st(iriiiy lii*t iiiylit. (iiiHind this niornin}; covcrpil Illicitly
with snou. Vigilant |>reciiutii>ii8 observed at camp an imoul, iirul a sli^irp
look-oiil kept for Sioux iipiiii tin- Iriiil. Cio.ined nil undulating; prairie, and
enteri'il a vrry liillv ilislriet willioiil wiiur, haid to lie the eoniincncemcnt of
the lilue IMl.s. Skirted " I.e (Irand t'otdc,'' a dry v»lh>y lOeluiins wide, and
cuniped u|i»n cro^sin); one of its raiiiit'ying branrhes, having Ibund in it a
Kcanty sni'ply of water at ln!.t. Undulating country. I/ght Dandy loan .
Clunip.s oi' tviiloHH and asnt'iiK. Short »onnly grass. Has been one of
the eoldi'si (lavs this Deason. Kriezing, and a high westerlv wind the whule
<lay - ■ '. . .

Uelnhir ,S. — Hard I'ro-t list inght. Morning calm and cloudy. Tnrned back a
short ilistuncc npoii the course nf yesterday, and then struck northerly in
order tn ui;ike a dnse cxaiiiination of tiic poplar forest, •• I.e (inind Hoi« ' of
till' buH'alo hniitirs, which is always in view on the right, but still a cm-
sidi'i.ible dislaiici' oft' (.5-(i miles V Halted to observe for Kititude, and
search lor water fur the aniniuU, snon alter entering the so-ealled fonst,
which is nothing more than a Biiccession of close clumps of young aspen,
pophir. and willow, partially clothing a high upland country. The men
despatched in ipiest "f watt r had 'o .-o about four miles befure finding any.
''•'inpcd mar a sii'iiil lake encriiipnsscd by burnt timber on the north, whii h
pr cnled a p^is-age that way. (irazing very poor and scanty, lias been a
liriglit and waini day. Light wind. Quite calm in evening

Orluljir !(. — Kelt cauip and went round by the south cud of the lake, which is
ahiMit a mile long. Pursued a » imliiig louise, over a hilly district, amidst
dense groves of poplars, almost a forest. Soil sandy and clayey loam.
Iriigiiieiils ol .shall appear wherever the ground is turned up by badgers,
(ioi out (il the thickest part of liic Inrcst after much wandeiing too and fro
ill search ol a goo.l tr,i(k fir tlie carts. Filled the water casks at a lake two
miles long, ami crossed an iinduUitiiig tract densely covered with willow
bushes. A'. I p. III. came upon the trail which was left yesterday
morning. ( ampcd after some miles' travel westward aeruss an undulating
district, partially clothed with brushwood. Has been a beautiful day, quite
mild --.......

(><l(,!.er 10. — I'lozi^ very hard last night. Very ecdd this morning. Started
from camp at ihiybrcak. I iirdeil a swampy brook (half a mile from camp)
befure crossing a ridge or iiaiiow chain of stony hill.s, .'tIMK) leel high,
running N.W. and S.K. Crossed several streamlets, and rested at noon on
an iindiilaliiig prairie, surroiiinled by lu iiid hills. A vei y heavy rain cimu
on ill the aftiriioon, and compelled an early camp. More billy than
herelol'ore. Itomid long hills, like ridges; and conical bills, t'lunips of
poplars here and ihere, and willuws spread all over, where lornierly then-
was a dense pop.ar lor.st. .\ lew oaks sliugginu' for existence, but
many prosiralcd. The main wuuus seen on the right live to seven miles
away .........

Urtol/ir II. — Uained til dawn, then Mnnud till 'i a.m. .\ gloomv, co'd
moiiiing. \ thick if gi-i'^e fhini; to the south was brought down this
morning. Iiy imitaiiiig their eiy. and one of their number killed. Kesumed
the jouiney along the edge of" I.e drand t'oule de 1 ■ Cirosse Huttc," a verv
deep dry valhy. (roused lliis gre.it emiatercd \ a. ley, which di'rives its
name (rum a very promiaeiit (.hject, l.a (irosse liutli, a solitary conical lull
'_'(XI feel high, two and half miles to the south. Continued along tin- south
side of I.e (irand Coule over an undulatii g country. In crossing a small
creek, .lowing in a deep valley, hcline entiriig a very hiliy distiict, some of
the Ii0].«es got mired. Crtissed several ranges of hills and dales, and campe I
on the margin of a small lake in the centre of the hluc Hills

Oc/iiljer I'J. — Pursued a winding course over the lllue Hill range, ind lorded
Cypress Hiver, (a trihutury of the Assinnihoiiie. ) alter pa.siiig several
biaulilul hikes embosomed III wuoiied deil.-. To-day's journey was rather
lic.ivv lor the animals, being so much up hill and down (l.ile. Camped upon
cro-sinK a deep, broad, dry valley, as large as that of ilie Assinniboine. Thi'
lllue Hills terminate at this valley, being all on the east side of it. Some of
the liilU mar it are 'JlXI-lidO feet high, and many of them are crowned with
oaks and poplars, Thick liig in ihe afternoon, and heavy rain commenced
at V p ni. .........

Orlnliir \'^. — l!ain alternately with snow lasted the whole night. Kaining and
-' . lint; all tiie iiioriiiiig. To^.k a norilieriy course towards the .\ssiiiniholne.
I'lMVirsid a level soil prairie, and I'uind some dilliculty in crossing a Hwani]>y
I nek. I rosscd a plateau e<nered wiih young oaks, sii ■ceeded by siinil liiils
cxti niliiig to the As>iiiiiihui'ii'. I'urded tlie As.-iiiiiihoine, and struck
nurlli-caitcrly across a region of sand hills sparsely covered with "cree|)ing
junipitr," stunted aspen. i, and oaks. Camped at .j p.m. .Scarcely any
grazii.g. - Water ill ponds .......

Miiii Track, dittann
from —

IV'redinjt !
Cuinp. j

Fort
Oarrj'.

Si. Mil». Si. WIm.

13 50

9-50

14-50

1800

n9-25

128-75

U.S'i,-)

161 •«

IIOO

17'-''2.i

'Z\r>0

in -00

i9;)-75

'im-la

SASKATCHF.WAN KXl'LORING EXPEDITION.

171

:k, dittanc*

n —

I Fort
j Oarrj'.

sTSiiiT

I't-f .iV.

! 19-25

1 28 •7.';

No. 160 October U.— lioaiinieil llic jiiurncy acrois »i\ii<l hills covered with. ground
jiinipiT uiid " Kiiii-kiiiik." At 10.20 u.iii. came upon the trail which was
purtiiiod l)y the tiuiii whiliit en ruitle to il>c LittU^ Souriii in June. Kecog-
ni/cil it by a collection iit' Kin.dl kIcuIU of rabbits hanging on trees, —
IiKhiiri oH'criiigs to iMunitou. Camped after xcven hours' travel from this
point -•.......

No. Kil October 1.'). — Started early, and arrived at Prairie Portage at noon. Pitched
camp iie^r the site ot'eimp (1) of .Tune 17. Itnin mt in. Distant lliuniler-

„ October I(i. — Prairie I'orttige. — 'VwrnvA the aniniuls into the glebe to graze,

i through the kindness ot' Archdeacon Coclirane. Most ol the day occupied

in endeavouring to procure a guide or packman, and preparing tor a traverse
I on Coot into the I'urcsl on the south side of the river. Set in very wet in tho

evening.

Oelober 17, IH, It). — Prairie y'»/7 (i/c —Occupied three days in making explo-
rations of the poplar lorest, and in traversing the belt id, heavy Imrdnoud
i lining tlu' valley ol' the Assinniboine, for description ol' which see Keporfs of
I'mgriss, page ;il.

„ October 'JO. — St.irti'd with the train at sunrise from Prairie Portage for Selkirk

Setih'inect, taking the iimer trad leading close along the Assinniboine, there
I being n.ore wood and water ihat uav. .Much snow in places.

.St. .Milm.

22-50
l.S-,50

St Miles.

229-25
212-75

(XV.)

M-25

FIIO.M SKI.KIKK SKI-I'l r.MK.Nl- lO 1111. SALT SIMllNfi.s OS \V1 NMl'l,(i<)-SIS l.AKi: AM) 1111. SU.M.MIT Df Tilt
IIIDINU .■MOIMAIS, vili IIIK WK.sl' (,<IASI' Of I.AKh WINNll'lC, rilK l.llTl.i: S,\,SK.vr(ilEWAN OH UAIPIIIN
HIVKK, .sT. MAIM'In's l.AKi:, rAUrllllHiK CllliI' IIIVKII, .MA.\I lollAII l.AKK, WAlKll-lir.N IIIVKRANI) LAKE,
WINNIPKOt>-SlS l.AKK, .MOSS KlVKll, AND DAL I'llIN LAKE.

1-25

Ctmp.

No. Ui2

No. \m

No. 1(5+

Miiiii IViick, (listaiic-i'
('roiii — •

S'/iteiitber I S.--I'nd)arketl in a freighter's boat eipiipped for a lake vovuue with
a crew of siveii voydgcuis. Hoislcd sail and goi underway from tlie .Nliildle
.Setileiiu lit at 10 a.m. Uan at a gooil rate before a light sootherlv hree/,e
down the Ited Uiver. I'.isse.' the Sione I'ort anil liiinled at .Sugar I'oint at
noon to conk dinner. C'anipeo below the Indian \'illage at sunset. Weather
warm, and mosipiitoes troublesome in evening, (.'oiiiet visible

Septemliir lit.- I'lislied oil'
Kiaclnd till' mouth of U

Pri-ct-ilhig
Catiip.

it d ly'.iri'ak, sailing and rowing alteniatily.

Uiver (•' iiorlli br.iiu'li") at 10 a.m., and pulled

2Jt mill's northward into lake Winnipeg with llie intenti'in of sailing to a
point south of till' Willow Islands, hut a lieav\ fog coming on with a hi'ail
wind from the north, the boat had to be put almut and steered back to the
iiiouth of the river tlnougli the mist. The log cleared oil' at noon, but the
unfavourable wind Irisheneil up and prcven ed iarth r progress

Seplemlier 20. Mouth nf Pal Piter. — Same cani|i. \ViiiilhiMiiid. Wind con-
tinucil liigli during the iiighl, anil blew li.ird all day frniii the north. .\
ver\ stormy sea on the lake, and the bar coveriil with huge breakers. Cold
and elnuily all day. Dm k and liitse ..outlinanl bmiiid Hying verv liigli and
swill before the Kale. I'.xuininid the coast.

!<eptciiiher '1\ Wnwlwent down during the night. Started from the mouth

of llie river hi liin daylight, .'sounded across ihe bar. and piilhil from point
to point iil""g the eoiisi ; Inking the courses and computing tin intcrniediale
distant •'• \i\ deud-reekoiiing. Aithmigh i truck survey of iliis coast had
jusi luiii completed in canoe, it heciune necessary to delineate the boat's
track .dung the ciiasl. in order to pint upon the chart the siiundiiiys which
\ii'ii made with the huiiil lead ul inliiv.ils of 10 iiiuiutcs or ol'leiier if neces-
sary, wllilnl lliii liiiHt ."as in inution. eommeneing at lln moiiili of Ited
Mlver. Observed firi|iieiitl) ivith nil improved I'l'^- inc to obtain the rale of
liu liuat, III iking the rtipil^ilc allowaiues and roneeliuns. Cooked dinner at
the (ir«t poiiil lievoinl llie Willow Islands. Mil here an Indii'ii. in caniie.
rriiin whom a iiioiise linii hiIk I'loeurcil. Knweil on till a little after dark,
mil raiiipiil iM'iir Dtlinlti II liim I. lias been u bcaiitilul day. Cold n the
morning ...{......

.Miililk.

ScUlfHU'llt.

■Si. .Mill's.

2()'0(l

•00

:i;i-oo

_'i )■.■)()

-}\)-rA)

172

Camp.

No. 165

. i

I i

! P

No. 166

No. 167

N(i. Iti.s

No. I(i!»

Ni). 170

No. 171

No. 17'.;

No. 17:1

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Main Track, iliiunce
from —

IVi'ccdiiig
Camp,

September 22 Loft Drui'kcn Kivcr at 4..50 a.ni. Spreni) snil and ran swiftly

before a I'air wind past llie .Snmlv Bar and tliroiij;li tlie Gra-.sy Narrows.
Stopped to cook lireakfasi opun Guano Islanil, and set sail a;^ain, lakin;; a
straight eourse pa.<t tlie (ireuter and Lesser Itlaek Islands, to Deer Island,
to examine a very line exposure of limestone and sandstone upon it. Saw
Magnus' hrifiade of boats from York I'aetory scudding alon;; the main
slioie some dittaiiee oif. Iteniained ,'l^' hours upon the island eolleetiu);
spccinuMis, I've. He^umed the voyage at i.H), and spiled to (irimlstuni^
I'dint, «liere the bo, it was iKiuled up und camp pitched at 7 p.m. On
this l:i«l traverse the lead showed a depth of (S-'J liitlioins, — the deepest
yi't rec<ir(led ..-.--..

Sij>h'iii/»r 'S.i. — The inn iiiii:; occupied in examinitig the rock and obtaining;
speeinii ris. Kndiackeil at .SliO a.m. to make the traverse to tlie N.l'.. short!
of the lake. S.:il((l with a ''crimp" wind until inakin;^ tlii' htlle (iranite
Islands, win n tli uind chopped roninl and blew hard i'rom tin' ninth. The
boat heinj; very li'iHardlv on aeeount of the (laliu'ss of her tloor and the
want of keel, it was found necessary 10 put about ami seek shelter. Found
n harbour at I'lnik Inland, after driviuf; before the gale up<m a retroLiiade
course. Itain set in and w ind conliiuied high alt diiy, compelling a ramji,
but the linie was oecuoicil in exphulng the island ami the rock escarpments
expt)scd upon it --------

SijilemlHr Jl. — ,\n>useil the crew at 1.', and got underway at .'t a.m. 1 long
before dii\ light). I'ulUd ont a short distance and raiseil sail. An K.S.IC.
uind pushed the boat on at a goiut speed across (treat W'ushow Hav au<l
pa>t the IloU's lleail. Stopped at H.'.'O a.m. at I.inustonc Oave I'oint.
l-'iubarked again alter exaunniug the outcrop of lock ami collecting fossils.
Siiled through the Dog's Head Straits, thiiu'c across the mouth of Fisher
liay, ]):i»t lilaek I!e;ir, (Irrat .Moose, and .funiper Islamls, to the I'ike Head.
Cooked dinner al tlie I'ike Head Ifiver, ami started again. Continued
sailing on past Wickdl I'oint. Cat Head. J^c.,aud >toppid to camp at II p.m.
at I'o.nt I'nrnagaiii, alter 'JD hiuirs' travel. Lay down to icst on ihi' beach
at iuidni;;ht ........

Siplimlii-r '1'). -Ixaiscd camp at :i, ami started at !• a.m., recording the courses
und Miun.'nig*, and registering; the boat's rate ami tinn', by lamp-light. Kan
with a liglit I i'ee/.e past I'lU^hkiga IslamN, and. attir daylight cinu' in, took
a stiaight conr-e IVom tlu' .'sturgeon Isles to the Little Saskatchewan. .\iad(!
vlosi' >ouiKliligs over tin- bar and entered the uiouth of the river at !l..'!0 a.m.
I'ulled and tracked imtil r( aching an Imlian eneampment some distatiee up
the river. The Indians, 00 seeitig the boat app;naehing, connneneed a brisk
fusiiade with their tint guns. This welcome saluti' caused innnbers of
Indi.ms to congreg:ite heie lidin all points -----

Stjiliinlii r 'J'j. — Traiking up lbs rapid river is slow and lalioricnis work : the
tracking groinu! is bad, and it rcipiins four men attached to the towing line
to haul the boat. ICeachcil thi' did of the tr.icking groanil, or win re the
river tlov.N throogh a vas: marsh, at :i'JO p.m.. and camped ^there bt ing
a strong head wiiid Ironi ibe south), as the oars could give the boat no
liendHay against the sircuigwind and current. I'lenty of er.iiiberries near
camp. Indians have followed the bo:it all day in t'.ieir littli' canoes, the
S(|uaws diaggiiig them with lines of twislel bar', passing round their
bodit s _._------

Sijiliiiihir 'J7. - Sailed in many of the rtaches of the river with rather a sipially
wind, hint ere 1 St. .^lartin's Lake at iimni. ami slopped at a boulder point
threi' i^iles from the connnencement of the Little Siskatcliewan. t'"Uol not
proceed lartlnr than this p(ii,.t in eoiiseipieiiee ol a high adierse wind
blowing. .Shot a langl'iug goosi'. The inar-.h lieie is encmnpassed by u
semicircular barrier ol liouMeis -.---.

St/i/inilii'i '_',S. — Lake culm. .St:;rted a little belnre daylight. Itowed through
the narrows, sonn.ling every minute, and stopped for breakfiist at 7.K) on
Sugar Island, Col.ecied some speeimeas of thi' rock formation, anil steered
fur three stiiall gmiss isl.ii.ds (St. Martin's Uoeks); pulled thence to
Thunder island, ami procured there a number of fossils I'rcnn an exposure
of limestone. Siart.tl again, after a heavy tliundirsloriu bad pa«seil over,
aiiil pulled agaiu-t a headwind to Fislnr Island, Hliieh was reaeheil at dark.
.Moor( d the boa! and slept in her, tin re being no e.nnping grounil mi shore -

Scptimi.iir 'I'.).- 'uch rain last night. Ijiteri'd the oionlh of I'.irtridge Crop
Uiver at 10 a in. I'roceeded up tills stream, me iiidering by many channels
thiol gii tall reeds and rushes, and arrived at I'airliiril al li p.m. The
Indians had arrived some hours in advance, and they became very noisy In
the evening afier leceiving (heir annual supply <d' li(|Uor al the lion.
Ilnils.in liav Cimipaiw's I'ost here. Frost at night ...

Srjilemlier 'M) Knti red Lake .Maiiitubah at noon. Coasted along the cast

shine, and camped at 6 p.m. at Flat Uock Hay, in order to examine a highly
lossiliferiius exposure of limestone. Some stunted poplar, birch, and oak
along the coast. Taniarac swamp in the rear ....

Middle
Settlement.

Si. Milea. St. Mlle«.

■11 '00 lOO'.-iO

3-50 !)7-()0

81-50 178'.50

'.'S-OO ' 20<i.5O

15'00 '."Jl •.■)()

6-00 227 .■>()

22 '00

IS'OO

12'00

2i9.iO

26t.l()

276-50

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

173

Main Track, distance
from —

Camp.

No. 174

No. 175

No. 17(i

No. 1-

No. 17H

No. 17!"

No. IM)

No. IM

No. 182

No. is;!

October 1. — Took in u number of specimens, and pulled to Steep Kocl< Point
to examine another outcrop '20 left high ; thence made a straight course
across the lake to I'oint I'uo-ntm, soundiin;, &c., as usual. Passed betHeen
the point and Cherry Island at noon; thence ran on with a lair wind till
7..'I0 p.m. (aCier dark), and camped at Sandy Point on tlie west side of the
lake .........

OcIoIht i, — Hoisted sail and started at (i a.m. A heavy rain conniieneed at
8 a.m. and continued all d.iy. Took breakfast at 10.2.3 a.m. on an inland oil'
the mouth of Water Hen Kiver. Struck sail and pulled up Water Hen
Hiver through a great marsh. Camped at !• p.m. on the first wooded t\ry
ground reached - • ......

Ocltiba ;i. — Coiitiiuied tiackiug and rowing up Water Hiii River alternately.
Reached the " Turning Point" at sunset, and camped near some Indian and
half-breed saltiuakers, who were proceeding in a boat to Oak Point with
a cargo of salt from the Salt Springs. I'la'. sivftnipy country, poorly tim-
bered. Kiver shallow in some places .....

OctolM'r A Clear and frosty la>t night, with a strong N.W. wind. I'asscd

the southern extrcnuty of Water Hen Lake apparently a dilatation of the
river), and sailed through the rciiaiider ol the river into Wionipego-sis
Lake. Stopped to cook dinner at Point Krnniie, and sailed upon a straight
course llionce to Snake Island. Slept in the boat - - - .

(Miihir 5. — Cold morning. Collected some very fine specimens and fossils
from the iimestnne exposcil on .Vnako Island. .Saw vast nninliers of ''scarfs"
(crow ducks) Hying. Knibarked at Id a.m.. aiul ran at a high speed under
reeled canvas t> the Salt Springs, Had to discharge cargo rapidly and
haul the boat up ou the beach, having landed on a lee shore. Kngagcd
during the rest of the day in examining and surveying the Salt Works, and
me.isoririg the height of the springs above the hike. Wet weather. Shot
a nundier of ducks --.-.---

(Ifliilier (\. — Left the Salt Springs at 10, and reached tlie mouth of Moss River
at 1 I a.m. Pas.^ed il good log-house built and inhabited by Indians on the
banks ol the river. l!pon h.i'ting to examine a rock exposure half a mile
from the lake, the Indians came up rcfpiesting a "sniok.'," Continued
ui) stream, and camped after ascemling the second rapid. 'I'he tirst rapid
fails 2^ feet, .nid is very shoal and fnli of boulders. The boat had to be
lighteni'd and poled up. The scconil rapiil is lU chains long, anil has a fall
of '1\ feet. In order to asei ml it the boat had to be emptied and dragged
up, — all hands w.nling in the water except the steer-man. Some goo. I .'and
on the lininedialc b.iuks of the riter, but il soon passes into muski'g

(h/fliir~. Startcil at 7, and reaebed the third ra[)id at S a.m. Poled the
boat up. I'all. Is iiiclics. Length, li chains. Kiitered Dauphin Lake at
4- p.m., and contiTined almig the west coa-t till (i p.m. Had a magniliceiit
view of the Ridin; .Mnnnt.un upon entering the lake. Very eohl and r,i«
during the day ........

()<l(ilii r i>. — Coasted live inil.'s farther, ami landed at a point wooded ui;!i
oaks, near a meat marsli In which were vast tlocks ol ducl,s and gt esc,
Levi lleil to olitain n proliie of the enunlry suriouiuling the hike. Ilauled
lip the boat and made pi epar.itioiis to start on lo.it for the sutnmit ot' the
liiiliii'." .Monntiin to-niorro», I'liie eonntrv for grazing. Has been a line
day '-.--:.--

(htnlnr '.(.—Left tin' boat in charge of three men, and started wilii the
reinainder of the party to make the ascent of the Rilling .Mountain.
Pursued a straight southerly course to the highest or nearest peak of ihi'
mountain, rnea-iring the ilistanees by pacii'g and by rate. Crossed some
line ine.idow land, then entered upon a very net marshy country. Open
marsh and savannah between dry gravelly strips covered with scrub poplar
alternating with quaking bogs and aider and l.imar.iek >\\amps, Restiil for
the night 011 a scrub o.ik ridge, alter a c.dd, wet, fatiguing inarch

Orlnliir 10 — Cominenccd ascending the slope of tlie mountain this moriiliig.
Found it rather toilsome work, tearing tliiongli tangled brusliwood in a
thick 'forest, and criwllng up the steep ai'ellvities. Whilst taking dinner
upiMi a liigli ronnded peak within two miles of the summit, a brown bear
ni .lie his appearance, A well directed shot brouglit biin down as he was
walking ipiietly olf. Ascended to the summit, and made a camp of brush
to keep off a heavy snow that came on. Supper of bear's meat

I'ri'Ccding
Camp.

St. Miles.

27 00

liO-.TO

u-2.';

2.i-(IO

Middle
S';Ulcm«nt.

St. Miles,

a03-50

a;i.'i-jo

:i4.7-75

;i72-75

:j-r>0 378-25

10 ■■.'.■. ;i88'50

il- :." 1 405'25

.•;-oo I -uo-So

ll(X) 1-21 -2,5

,')0

R'S-7S

Y 3

17*

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNlBf>INE AND

(XVI.)

FROM TUB SUMJIIT "F THK III. •%(; MOUNIVIN 1(1 .M ANl roU.VH MOL'WC AN1» ISLAND.

Camp.

KaMi Track,
I'rtira —

No. 181 Octolxr 1 1. — The whole farp (if tie pnnntrv pdvprefl with snow, wliirh Ml to

J>r«««ling

MouMjun.
8t. Miiw.

11' (li'i

til 111 »i\ inches lii>l iiijilr I'oMiiiicnccd tic '(••"(•ciit nt' the iiKiunI"

at'ici' iiMkl.i); several triiverscs imu the heavv i.iresr whi>li j»rii»* on tli< tine

talih'-liinil (III the sunn
lii'Mi;; reiiileivil vorv

The (tmcent «'a« rather (liHie-i»<», the steep Slopes

llV till

Tiii.l!;

I tlirotiffh yieltiiig hiiow

11(1 ,'l the toot (I'tlip lowi^st

ct and cdid. Itaiii and sleet ...

No. 1S.5 October !'_'.-- ('(iinnienced the niHrcli caili' this morning iicrtim quallunft mnnhes

and ,-lii,«h iililil reaehinf; the end (ilthe solid
slope, and camped very »et and cold. Itaiii

1,1 ni(i~ke!»s wlijeli iiceiipv the i'e);ioii lietweeii the base of the nxouiitnin iind

Daiipliiii Lake

Ite

elicd ihe I

reniainder of the ■ ay in (Irving w«t chillien, &v.

e liiMt ( IH'a(ii|iiiieii: at '_''M0 p.in., aMi s|K>iit tin

No. 186 Oeltil.rr IS. — Lain clicd the hoal iiiid eoasled round to a piiiiil near lh«' mouth

of Tiirilo Hiver IViini whence the cxiihiralion acr

■ the

itusc ediniiieiico

lild

laii );ulde

lip

d III

■di r to i

iiiiiilrv to .Muoituhah
f hi

procure I adap't ur on*- ot his

No, Is" Oct0imr \\.- — .Stalled with Tawapit's son at dawn, for I'lirtle River, leaviiii.'

mmy
m bi

ihiliLake (in our left. Cm

•d Tuitle Hiver at 1(1. iiiid eiitcicil

iol:, mar«h, and a.speu ridge. The abrupt llaiiks (if Itiding Mountain
■tiiiiied vlsiide fur iiiany miles. Camped at ni^ht on a rid,';e. Ih liii very

iMcl, luly thill quarters to foiir-lifihs of the
Night coid. Hard frost

ho;;

and inursli

No. It^S ftfiiJnr \'t. -.Arrived at the nii!;.'e I'itehl'ig Tract at f.';iO a.m. Pursued the
•■xcclleni road it oti'ered for :'\ n iles, then struck into swamps .mil l)o:.'s agam.
Hor<ts niirt'd. Were cnnipellid lo carry food and lilankeN and Icrce the

hors(>s ihrough ihe bogs ; at

iheil Crow C

id in half an hour

(tucker (leek. Arrived Ht night. tall at Kbb and Klow Lake

ill fat

igued

^.. Jh<( Orliilii-
tish.

pt in (Ijibw
ami rabbits

Iftdii
liidini I" whom Ihe lent bi

bircli baik lent. I'.xeelletit breakf.ist of while
mink he had i rapped.

brought

'<! has all

idv
^ea•.•Ml for iiiost fur-lieai iiig animals is begii

p|)e
id Ihi

hull

excelleni biilfjilo rimm

et 70 traps, am

1. (iailoped on an

lint

good gra/inp coiii

.Manitobali 11 ii>e passing through a low, wet.

ilrv — arriv( (I al Manitnbah II

iii^e at noon

So. lEiO Octrlier \-

MaaitiilMili lldiisr. — .Siindi

Manitobali lie
.M

.Stoiniv aiK

iild.

•'layed at

essi iiger if cixed
coiilinu»'d all night.

<niii\iMg the liiispitalilv oi .Mr. and Mrs. .Mackenzie.

1 lirf -il.

smov-slnrin

111

ilie aflernooii-

Orlii/ii'r XM mill WhMilniUihiili /A.

ithi

lund nine i

tleep. Snow-birds ill rineks— duck.- f.yiiiu soulh. I)aypas-ed in
aiid>(>ii)rnii< Winie icporl. South

Orlvhur 'JM iin»l 'J|. -.South wind.

id. No III
like (roni the burniii"

prairies

nclii

' h'tii:

\Vi

da\s. .sm.w ■lelting fast. Men's allnwiiiice at this pust three wine lisli per

\\ulb..^l throiigl

I surroiMK

liiij

iiiiliy : visited ihe I'l

^nd t ,e Vv*' Stages. I'onnd Imiestiun. c.xpnsiire with ^I.k ial gr
■ lute n<ige, If feel above present altitude. Drill clay, f(

iir fe

Gneiasoid i

limrstom biuihle

ILiUs
also a
deep.

Oflohtr ^2. 9tmniti>1mli HitiM'. — Visili d ,iiid (xphitcd the Sng:ir Lhml. Tin

i.f VJm and Mow Lake. 'Ihe Nurri

.^hot ■• stuck " diick.s. Iiii

LHse accummutidiis of n cds about the islands and Ebb and I'low Lake

r( liureil ler

■,.yage

III .Manitobali Island.

tif. 191 Or/ofter 2.'!.- Started Willi \\ hiteway at HI

in company «

ilh till

pinlir (liiilf. breed), who built .Mr. .Mucki nzic's iiouHc. Reached island at
neon. Kxplort-d ainl made plan of island .od toil rounding country. Col-

li cled ((Kssils. C

impel

I on .Maniliibab Isia

Oilier '2\ .Miiii'tiilui/i Ishiiiil. — No boat or any

ofd

ivisioii trom

I Duuphii

Lake. Saw Indians, but they woiihl not appioacli the island. Made a col-
li itiun <»t' the different sfuta of locks, plants, shrubs, ie. South wind.
Ile.iutifiil «i athe' being Ihe warm, gcmal periods ealled Indian summer
Whiti w.ny hiiiitc(< killed duck and mink. Indians liiiMin^ nc.ir but would
mil approach tlir i* -'id.
OiIiJht 'JS. — it: idrhn: I.^/iiiiil.- Im\ ' \y i\.:\. Caiioi d r iind tin' eoaat. Pre-
pared a large .i*:.^! lire. At 10 p.m. bo.-.t arrivi u, ,iad the wliulepaily
camped on I he island.

7-.v»

II no IS'.Til

•till ifi'lO

.'riKl

■JT'Oi)

ivio

:+'io

Sli'H.I

!)-S0

!ifr3.7

i I

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEOI flON.

i/.i

(XV 1 1.)

FROM DAUPHIN lAKK TO OAK POINT ON LAKE MANITOBAH, TllEWCK TO SELKIRK SKTTLEMENT.

Camp,

No. 192

No. 193

No. l!)i

Nip. !').',

No. 1!«>

No. I,

No. lim

No. 199

No, '.'(H)

October 13. — Startid ut 3 p.m. iVoiii u |>oiiit iioar tlic :iioutli of Turtle
River after (Ii»riiibarkiii); llie division wliicli was to iiiukfi a^i ovurlunu journey
to Manitoliah House. Kan aloii); tlu' east eoast of Uaupliin L<tke, sounding;
as lierutol'oie, an far as tliu wind would |ierntit, and cauipedut siinsc't. Clear
and frosty .-.---■-.

October 14. — Unable to advance tliis morninj; in consequence "f a Htron;^ iiead
wind blowing from tbe N.W. Ciot undciw.iy in tlio e\eninf;, tlin wind liavin^
fallen. Rowed steadily along the N.li bhore until 1()"'J() p.m., wlien tlie
boat was moored for the night, as the moon became obscured with clouds
and haze -.-......

October 1.5. — Entered Moss River after nn easy run with a light wind.
Arrived at the Indian house, near the niiutii of the river at (> p.m., and
stopped for the niuht. The Inili.ms pive os a feast of nmosc nose in their
warm and comfortable log shanty. Very eold and cliiiidy ...

Oclolier U). — Strong head uin<l blowing IVoin the east across I^ake Winnipego-sis
lii- morning. Had some heavy pulling from the time i f entering the lake
until getting to leeward of a point abcMl two miles fnnn the luoiith of Moss
River, Wind blew from same (puirter till evening, when it veeri'd round to
the northwest, causing the surf to beat upon the beach with great violence.
Hauled U|> the boat high and dry after disehurging the heavier part of her
lading. ICxainined the coast, and collected fossils from rock in |»isition.
Much rain during the day ---..-.

Ortu/jcr 17. — Same camp. Aron<ed the itow at 3 a.m., as the wind had
increased in violence, and the water had risen so much (2i feet) that the
breakers threateiu'd to knock the boat to pieces. Discharged everything
from the boat, and spent most of the night in dragging her over the beach
to save her (rom the fury of the waves, (iaie from the N.W. blew hard all
day. Cold .tnd snowing.

Oilober it^. — Four inches of n\ow on the grontul this morning. Wind blew
from the same qu.irter till noon, when it turned a little more to the west —
"uHiciently favourable to take the boat acro-s the lake. Hail some didicully
Ml launehlng the boat on account of the heavy surf. I'ullcd against the wind
to the poifit and hoiste<l sail, lian under close-reefi'il caiiv.is. with a side
wind, to S.ill I'oint, tluMice poll.'d along the west sliore of the inlet of Water-
hen Itivcr, and campe<l on a |>oint where an old half-breed nuin and hi-.
Indian wife wen "tenting" ----..

".....'.. r 1!). — (Jot underway before dayliglit, a fair wind from the south having
sprung up. TiMik ihe easlern hraiuh of ihe Walcrhen Uiver ruruiing fr.ini
the inlet to the gn at beiul. Course lay against ihe wind beyimd Waterhen
Lake, lamped at a ipLirier to 7 p.m. near the island> or narrow part of the
river after hiMvy palling all afternoon. Oli-erveil the nuigiu'tic variation of

It) \.r r. - ' -

Oiloliir 20. -lleaehed the nu)Uth of the river anil entered Lake Manitobah at
noon. Met l.iur boats buund to ihe S.dt .'springs for cargoes of s.ilt. .Sailed,
with the wind on slaihimnl i|uarti'r, to Uisi:> and IClm Islanils. Had to stop
on thf latter in conseipience of the wind becoming contrary. Han been a
beautiful day — the beginning of Indian sununer - - . .

October '2\. — Kuibarked at ."^ llO .i.m. The lake iuarl\ calm. A light wind
hum the siiiith. Uowed to a point on the niaiulaiul and collected a uund)er
ol geological spccinu'iH at an outcrop of hori/.ontal huustonc. I'ulled on,
over the lalni surface i . the Like, and halted lo cook supper opposite the
" P-iint witiiout I'.iles.' l.nili. irked again at S p.m., and ran witli a light
bree/e, on the ciHir>c to I'oini Pao-nan. .\ fog ari)>e at 10 p.m., and the
shore was made with dillicnlty >oiiic di.^tance short ol the point. Has been
a beaiitilul Indian summer-day. Warm and hazy. Sounds audible a great
distalire .-..--...

Oclohir '2'i. — Set sail at daylight. Ranuiilia "crimp" wind past the Pao-
/liiii atid across to the other side of the lake to a point which the boat was
u/iflbU.' \o weather, and beyoiul which the course aloiig the coast lay against
the Wind. Iiaiihii the boat up on the gravel beach, enehising a marsh which
lines tin; coast cveiyvvhere. I'ine Indian siinnner-like day - - .

tJifiilnr 2') -'_'!. -Same camp. Wind still contrary, lilrw hard frmn the south
(htse two (lays and niglits. Shot a number of prairie hen on the point. Ob-
served ilie magnetic variation of l.j° 1",. on the 2.ird. Cohl, cloudy, and
r.iining at intervals on the oilh. No wood on the point. Unable to keep up
a fire.

Y 1

' AIniii Track, distance
from —

I'ri'rciling Dauphin
Ciini)i. I Lake.

Si. Miles. St.>Mili».

8'00

10-00 18-00

17-50 3J-.50

2-00 ,37-50

12-7.'. .)0-2.5

2.5-00 75-25

1.5 -00 !)0-25

36-00

10-00

12(i-25

;3G'25

'-i

; I

176

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Camp.

No. 201

No. 202

No. 203

No. 201.

Mitiii Truck, iliiUnn
from —

No. 20.5

No. '206

October 'i5. — The wind moderated nt noon. Shoved ofT the limit and started
at 2 p.m., hut had surnr heavy puUliig, and made little headway against
the wind iinlll Bnnsci, when it hccanic quite culm. Stopped ui the narrows
at 8 p.m., and sent men ushorc to conk supper, the water being too ghoal
to »Ih>w tile boat to get near tlie land. Started aguin, and plied the oars
until 10 ■ 15 p.m., when a heaeon tire and some signal shots on Manitobah
Island revealed the ramp of the division which had come round from Riding
Mountain to this point .......

Orldber 'Jfi-'-Knihiirkeil at 7 a.m., anil pulled through the narrows against a
liglit toiithrrly wiiul until rtaehing Maiiitoh^ih House at l.'M p.m. Started
a^ain at :!, rawing ii;;aiiist the same wind 'ill .5 )>.ni., and camped upon
Pelican l>laiiil ........

October 27. — Siarted belore il.i\ll;;hi. Pushed on niimg the N.E. shore of the
lake nnl'l arriiing .it Monkniiiii's Point, near .Swan ("reek. Found Miinkmun
and ioiiiu others (Voiii Ked Itiver lisliins,' here. The i.uil a larye nutnber of
white fis'i drying and smoking for « inter use. Jleautiful aurora at night

October 2S. — Sharp fro>l ia-l night. It in along shore with a light N.K. wind
and turned into the eliaiiiM I whieh IimiIs across Marshy Point through n vast
marsh, (int nul of marsh ,il I p.<ii. alUi much diliiculty, having to drag the
boat ill many places tlinnigli n.uil wlufe the water is shallow. .Vrriveil at
Oak Point at 2 V'"' *■ niiiiilier of Itid Itiver settlers encanreil here in
Iiulian wigwam- ,ari» ing on their annual autumn li^liing. Hulled up the
hiii loaded three ox earls (vitli the i argu of baggage and
orteil to Selkirk Settlement. IJneamped near .loliii Monk-
. nle froMi the hike .....

i;p fiost last night. I'roeurcd three horses I'loin ,Iolin
( with the train of ox carts for Iteil IJiver. Crossed a
rich ' 1 ri K' I' lirie, «ith scattere.l groves of s riih oak, poplar, and
willow I 11 ' .(uusi t beside a clump of poplar saplings on an uren of

dark i i i iiitli ';iavelly sub-^oil - . . -

Of/()/;fi. ;j,:.--H ii'l ', t last night. Skirted the south-western shore of .Shoal
l.aki past a iii" ;> . ii.'y lor a sellleiiient— the land being rich wiili beautiful
grassy lawns ri .; i;iv meadow?, between eak orchards and bells of pop' u'
near the iiiMi'gin > . 'i. lake. C'uinped at " Itell's llumuioek," a clump of :iiir
sized I opiar. enelusing a pond of good water. .\ liivourite tamping pla;a' -

October .tl Pro/c very hard last night. Took an early start and reached

StiMiy Miiuntain at noon iiftir tiaversing several low lidges intersecting
beautil'ul prairies. .Spent ttio hours anil a half in (piot of fossils at the
niownlain and pushed on to the settlement. Reached the Scotch church
at ti.liO p.m. • .......

Prt'cctling Dauphin
('uiii[i. I Lake.

.St. Mil«». St. MilM.

11-00

13-()0

HT25

I'iO'Sa

_'7-.'.0 I lHS-:t,5

boat on rolh
fossils to be Ir;
man's liouse, I
October "<)._-V..

.Monk'i la ami siui

I0-0<) H)S-:i.-.

- I ]:i-oo '.Ml-s.j

1!)(M) '-'.'lO-Si

;t7 00 2G7'.'t5

DIST.VNCKS FUOM i-OitP (i.VilUV TO IMl'tUllAM' I'Ol .T.S IX lUJi'KllTS

l.A.M).

Description

Rwtc.

Luiulilif'N.

Inti.rim'- Dintatice !
Ji.ite from Turt |

Ki'inarks,

Cart Trail - i Fort F.lliee
,. ,, - I (inWppelie .Mission

„ .. - h'.lbow of the Soiili Hramli of the

i Siskatehewau

Cart Trail

Boat Navigation

Fort I'elly

Touchwood Hills

(iraml Forks of the Soskatchcwan

Little Saskatchewan or Dauphin
River . . .

Main Saskatchewan

Grand F'orUsof the Saskatchewan

I'ilbow ot the .South ISraiich of the
.Saskatchewan

Si. Milvi,. ». mUt. I

— ' 2.S6'U I Via the While Mud River ti.ul.
ISIj'.'i'l ' .')71-')H i „ the trail south, f the (ji Appclle.

17o-7:!

rtiH-y, „ th; '.(uAppelle Valley.

—

3P7-98

184

.'372

2(M>

137

9.3

MH.

35+

<)»«

21f>

94.8

33»(i5 , Via Fort Kllice and t'.. • .,il on the
west side of the Assiniiiboiuc.

Via Fort Ellicennd the Carlton trail.
„ the trail.

Vii'i the west coast of Lake Winnipeg.

)* »» »i »i

„ the Saskatchewan River.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

177

Epitome of Explohations nnd Surveys of this Expedition in Uupeiit's Land, or the Norih-VVeit
Territory, between the United States Frontier (40th Parnllcl) nnd Latitude SI" North; and between
longitude 06" utid 107° West of Greenwich, not including hiterai triiveriieii.

Slntiilo Milus

•1. Fort Onrry to Mouse Uiver anil the Hoiindary Line •
'J. United Slnte.< Ivoniicr to Fort Kllicc ...

'3. Fort Ellice to Qii'Appellc Miuion ....

4. Qu'Appclle Mission to the Sll!lkatche^van (South Braiicli)

5. Qu'Appellc !MiMion to Mouth of Qu'Appelle River -

(i. F'ort Ellice to Swan River .....

7. " Kiver that Turns" to Fort ii In Corne

8. Fort Felly to the Iiittle SaAkutohewan or Rapid River

Little Saskatchewan from Hiding Mountain to the A»sinniboiuo

9. Little Saskatchewan to Fort Ellice ....

10. Fort ii 111 Corne to Fort Ellice ...

11. Fort Ellice to Red River . . . . -

12. Fort it la Corne to Lake Winnipeg nnd Red River

19. Red River towards Lake of the Woods ...

H. Fort Garry to Pembina Mountain, &c. ...

15. Red River to the Salt Springs and Riding Mountain •

Ui. Riding Mountain to Manilobali House and Island

17. Dauphin Lake to Red Rivt-r . . - • -

Aggregate length of Main Lines of Exploration -

l>y mnh) tiuok.

- 267 -80

- 1I7'70

- 135'37

- 17«'73

• '256-59
■ 112-9.5

- 269 88

- 147-28

• 94-87

- 70-85

- 336-78

• 23fi- 1 1

- 711 -SO

- 69 -(X)

- 2i'2-75

- 4'-'8-7.5

- 9<i35
' 2(i7-3.5

- 4,039- 11 Statute mdes.

GEOLOGICAL REPORT.

CHAPTER XVL

Slllll-.M K i.KDI.OliV ()!• A I'AUT Of TlIK V.ll.LKY Ol' I.AKK WI NXU'l-.i;

Abraded, Polished, and Grooved Itoeks on B:iril Portage — Sturgeon L.ike — On the Winnipeg — Lakes
Manitohidi iind Winiiipego-sii — Poli»lad Pavt'incnt on South I'lJ-anch — Erratics on the Qu'.Vppelle, at the
Moose Woiids, on Ciit-.\rni Orci k, Assiiiiiibiiine, West of .Mississippi, on Souris — Bi-iiclies between Lakes
Superior and Winiiipc;^ — (ireat Dog l'ortiii;e — Clinracti'r (if — Sand Hank — Section of — Dr. Hitchcock's
views — Heach at Prairie Portnjie — Porta-je do Millii n — The liig Uidge on Red Uivtr — On the Assiniii-
bi)liic — Ne.ir DHiiphin Lake — f'embina .Mountain — Lines of lioulders — On South Branch — On St. Martin's
and Mariitobah Lake — t liaractrr ol Prnibiiia .Mountain — Dr. Owen's description — At the Had Woods — At
the Urand Forks — Itidgtsoii the Uidiiig and Duck Mountains — Correspond with Itidgcs on the Great
Dog Portage — I'rDbalilc fnrnier coiuuxioii ol' Grand t'oteau dc Missouri, Turtle, iiidiiig, l)u(!k, fhunder.
Porcupine, and Paaquia M<Mintams — Ancient Kivcr Valleys — The (iu'Appclle — The I.itlle Souris — Sand
Hills and Dunes — Their Distribution — Circular Depressions — EH'ects ol Denudation — Tlif Valley proper
of Lake Wiiniipeg denuded — Outcrop of rorniations — Conform to the general trend of the Laurenlian
Series.

The s<iirfiici' of the comitry between Lake Superior and the .South Bruiwdi of the Saskatchewan
exhibits the followini; |iheiioineii!i at ditferent localities ; —

1. 'iriHiriil, Si-nitf/u'd, I'vlishcit, anil Abnukd liocks.

2. Erratics,

'i. Ancient Sea nmi Laic Jlmc/ics and Tcrrairs.

4. Ancient Hirer I'allci/s.

C). Sand llilh ami Dunes.

(J. Circniar Pcprexsimi.i.

7. Remarkahle J'Jffccf.i of Dciiudatinn.

1. Uroiweil, Scratched, J'ulislted, ami Abraded Rocks.

Instances of the action of ice in abrading and polishing extensive surfaces of rock are very numeruiis
on the canoe rontt- from Lake Siinerior to l^ake Winnipeg. The first wide expanse iioticetl on the west
side of the watershed is at Haril I'oitage, \A'S miles from Lake Superior, and l,,50lt feet above the sea.
Where Mille Lacs hecotnes in\rrow mi approaching IJaril Portage, gneissoid hills and islands about HX)
feet high show a well ih'fined stratification dipjiing north, at an angle of about 1.") , and on that side
sinuuth, and sometimes roughly pidished; on the south side they are precipitous and abrupt. The same
character was nottce<l ;;t the Hard Portage. The north-eastern exposure of the rocks there was smooth,
the southern rugged, and idten precipitous.

On Sturgeon l.ake, 208 miles from Lake Superior, and l.I.'JG feet above the sea, the north-eastern
extremities of hill ranges slojie to the water's edge, and when bare are always found to he e\eiily
ml ground down. 'i"he aspect of the south and south-western exposures is that of precipitous

smoothed and gro
escarpments.

When on the Winnipeg in ^857, 1 ascended an abraded granite hill about a.'tOfeet high, and obtained
from its summit a very ext' iisive vrcw of the surrounding country. The broad river, with its numerous

• ThB numbers refer to the Itinerary.

3 ;
1'

S'5

UKPORTS Ol" THE ASSINNIBOINK AND

iieep buy!), wiih soon Ntrotc^liin<; far to tlio north, and nil nnmnd smnotli (loiuivHliancd liiil^, similar tn tho
,pne iiri wliiih 1 i-tond, showed llioir bum and Hcantily woiidi'd yiiiiiiiiits in every direetioii. 'I'ho ftoncral
KurfKe was either hare, aiul so vniootli and polishud as to make wulkiiif? (laiijjeritus, or uIho thickly
I'overed with earihiM) moss and triiie de ni";!!!'.

This deseriptioi) apiilies to a vast area dniinod Iiy tlie Winnipejj, In IH'iX we freqnentiy nsepndcd
the smoolhed and poli-^hi'd rocks, on wliich jrlaeint jfrooves were easily traeed for lonjf tiistnnees ; somcv
times, hilt not iil'ten, lioulders wero found restinj; upon the polished surfaces. On one occasion I
altein|)ted to ascend a round dome-shnped mound formiiijf thu sininnitof a fjranite hill, hot its beautifully
pol'-lu'd surface prevented me from ohtaininy a footiufr. 'llie action of atmospheric ajfenis had only
8UC( ee(h'd in diininiu;; its lieaufy, but had not destroyed its snuiothness.

(irooves and scratches occur on tin- liniestone> of Lakes Winnipe^f and Manitoliah, whore the surface
has been preserved from atniosplu-ric agencies, but wht'ther they win-e of recent origin or connected with
the drift, IS not certain.

Hy far t\u' most curious instance of nmdern ice iiction occurs in the valley of trie Sonlh liranch,
already described ;sco I 'liaptor V.i 'l"he ptdishi'il pavement on (he eilf^es of that river is a cnriiniH
and instructive illustrutimi of tlie 'uanncr in which lionlders and ice may leave behind tlieui lasting
mcmnrialii, ;,'raven on stone, of their lon^-continupd action, even on the banks of a river.

'_'. I'rmtii-s.

Th" distribution of boulders or erratics in the area explored may be traced, as in Canaila, lo at least
two cpiKJis: 1st. Till' Drift and Doulder jieriod, dininj: which by far the larger number were torn from
the parent rock anil carric I liy ic to their present rcstiuj;- |ihicis. 'Jiiil. 'I lie recent period, iiicludiiij»
the re-avraii>;emcnt of ancient boulders ami the distribution of fiesh sni>|ilies liy the actimi of ice.
Where erratics are distriluitcd in iiniisui! iiuautilics, tlieir position is marked on llie laryc map. 'I'hi

-t boiil(

■r was seen in the valU

the Ou'Apiicllc

frroi

III at

Th,
St II feet ill a

y of the Ijlu' \ppeiie; its p>sitiuu is shown on the '• Track Sll^^eyof
iil'crcnce of liiis em.i'inouB erratic is "s feet, anil it exposes a portion above

hitiidi

riic next lari,'e-<t, one of limestone, was seen on the prairies below

the MooM' Woods; it i. alioiit lii fci't hi;;ii. and at le.ist UK in circurifcrc

<-oiisists til niimeiise

sla!

)s, \Miose CI

Ikc-

[iroject two and llirce U'cl.

lice, IS verv

and

car ll arc maiiv others of the

inic kind, hut of smaller diiii(ii-ioii>. Nc.ir Little * 'ut-Arni I'reck. an allliiciil of tlic i.tu'Appclle, lar({n
ntos-ilil'crous boulder^ are very iiiimcroiis. ( )iie of ;,'iieiss nieasiircd l.'i feet in diameter. North of

the As

uiniboiiic, near llie liiir UuIlti

fraction Innk like tents in tlie level prairie-

■;ie boulders arc \\xu abundant, and when iiia''iiified liy

several mill

from our course hv tiicir rcscinhja

wice we were deceive
e to a cluster of tents.

by thi

iilipeaiaiice am

( led

III speakiivii of the houlders in tiie Western Prairies, |)r. Owen says: "On tiie we t tide of the
Mississippi, in llie va-^t prairie ie:,'ion of Iowa, the attentimi of the jji-olovist is freipuiriy arrested by

erratic I)

U-l

of eaormuu-; diiiiciisiim-, scattered lieieand tlierc, and half sunk in the ■{i-oimd. Unlike

*' the boulders \v

i>l
e Have pi

-t 1

iccn coiiMderiim, tliev art far fn in

" aiiiiii the Ol. Mil ol ''ra-s tliev may

be s,

en III

ile

icir oii;;lli,

ll siliiati

on.

As tl

lev rise

111 the ahsi'iic,

iif iiior

" they t'oriii

till

couiitrv, verv wel

icipa! laiidinar
be mistaken li

of the trav.'iic
ibiiis ill the distance

e coiispicuoos oliieciH

and I'lHiiid to be lil'lv fcrl in circuml

" haU'of tlic rock is burieil in the i^rimni!,

Tin- largi's' of tliem mii;i't. in an iiilialiiied

c. The one here icprcscnteil was iiieiusuri'd

crcice, and tue.vc feet liit;li. It is probable that a', least one

The drift on the Hbic llill- il'lbe Smiris is <<(

eii.e may lie iratliered some iileaol Us Inigi' dimensions.'

shales wliicli I'orin t'.ie outcrop

)f the Crctaieous rocks

Its ay

■al oriiiin, and consists almost exclusively of the
• limit is detiued by the I'einliiiia Mountain.

the liii;h prairie- In the west.

•ipieiilly pf'Sterior to that of the true boulder drift, which is so (generally di.-lriliuteil over

In Lake Wi

ice every year briii;;s vast boulders and frajiiiieiits of roik of ilie Laureiitia

heaclie- of tl
described b

vliii-h occupy its eastern slmres. Many of these are dislribntcd in the shallows and on the

ir we-ti rii siile; tin -e phcnoiiiciia lescnihh- in miiiialnre tin' stiipeiidous o|ierntUins
" r.'tic travelli'rs as oonlimiallv occiirrinir on the shdi-es df the Arctic Oc-eaii.

In Lake Manilohidi Ions; lines uf boulders are ac ■uiiiul;

lllo

IS ami formiiiL: extensive ice''-:

the same cpeiation i:' .l'ooijj i«ii in

all the lakes of *his rci.n:>n, ami is instrumental in (liniiiiisliiii<; tin

urea of the lake ill one dirciti'in, which is probably c ompeiisated hv a wcnriiiif away of the coast in
otiu i places. Several of lht~e iiiodein aciiiiniilalioiis formed by a re-arraii'jcmenl of the boulders of

IT dritt arc noticed hi prcccdiiij;' chapters

lake

vholc

iiid in conncxiiiii with

the

destruction of tlic> c oa-is, they all'urd :i strikitiij illustration of the rbaiif^es now t.ikiug place in the
relations of lainl and water thnniLrhout tlu' lake ri';.ii,u.

;). /uiir/iix ,111(1 T( rni.is.

The most rcmarkalilo beach and terraie, sliowiiifr an ancient coast line lu'lwceu lake Superior and
Lake \\inni|icL', is iindonbtclly lliat wliicli separates (ireat Dou; from Little Dofr Lake on the
Kamiiiisti(|uia canoe route. I have thus desTibed it in my report on the lied lli\cr Kx]ieditinn
of ISoT.

The (ireat Doi^ I'oita^e, o5 miles from Lake Snperi ir by tin' canoe route, rises 4!(0 feet above ihe
level (it the Little I »o>r Lake, and the fjre.itest elev.itioii of the ridire cannot Ih" less than .JOn feet above
it. The ililVcretK c hetwceii the levels of Little and (ireat Dog Lakes is ;i47"Sl feet, and the length of
the portage' bctwec n iheiii one mile and .'i.'l I'liaiiis.

The base of the ( ireat Dog Mountain consists of a gneissoid rock supporting numeroin boulders and
fragments of the same material. .\ level plate'aii ot clay then occurs for about a ipiarter of a mile, at
an altitude of L's'.") feet above Little Dog Lake, I'miii w iiic h rises, at a very acute angle, an immense
bank or ridge of stratitied sand, liohling small water worn pebbles. The bank of sand continue: to the
wnnimi uf the portage or 1 Ho feet above the dav plateau. The portage path does not pass over tlie

* Owuti'ii tieolw'ipcal t>uttf<.')i of WiaconauK Ivwa, »iiil Minaciiota, p. 144.

ij^»4_...

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

KoBt of tho path it itf prubublu that its summit is o(H) foot abov«

liighi'st part of the aaiiil ridf^c,
tho Littlo Dog Lake.

Iloro, tlioii, wo huvo a torrano 47tJ
feet ubovu Littlo l)of{ Liiko, or M5
feut above Lake Suporior, or \,43^> feet
above llio Ki'H.

'\'\\\i anoieiit beach fiimiNheH an ud-
niirubio proof of Dr. Iliti'hiock'x ex-
pectation that higher lieachcs than thoae
nieaiinred l)y Sir William l.n^ranon tho
ihoroitof Laku Superior would ho found
in tliat rof;ion. Dr. Hitchcock sayH in
liiit Surface lieolo^jy, i)aj{e (l;{ (Snuth-
•oniun (^outrihutionx), "I will oidy
" add, tinit if it ho uilinitted that the
" facte adduced in this paper prove
" the prcrtonce, Hiiiec the iJrilt porii.d,
*' of tho ocean at a height of ii.iiOO or
" even 1,'J()0 feet above its present
" level, then it nuist have extended h--a:-
" over uoiirly all of our western conn- (■'• -I';
" try; and luiloss I'rofci^sor Airai^siz ' '*
" says that ho had his eye n|)on this
" matter along the shores of Lake Supe-
" rior, I eainiot avoid ent(Mtaiiiini; tho
" expectation that what I call heaclics
" will yet ho found at a much hi;;her
" le>el there than the ;i.'51 feet terrace
" measured by Mr. (now Sir William)
" I-ogan."

1 aiM inclined to think that .'uiotlier
htach and tciraee can he rei-ogiii/.ed at
Prairie I'orti'o, itl4 miles by tliccanoo
route from L..Ke .Superior; its altitude
would correspond witli tiiat on tho
Groat Dog I'rairio I'ortagc passes over
the Height of l^and, but iu)t the hi!.'hest
land oil the route, and its course lies
first south-west up a steep woodtii hill,
without rock ex|)osiire, hut compo-iod
of drift clays, sand, aiidnuincroMs boul-
ders ; it then enters a narrow valley,
which teiiiiinates in a small lake, about
five acres in area and 'JO foot deep, oc-
cupying a hollow among the liilU on
the I leight of Laiul. The portage path
uontiniu's on in the same direction until
the Height of Laud Lake is reached, u
small sheet of water, about a B(iuare
mile in area, and l."i7 feet above Cold
Water Lak. . The iitmost elevation
roacheil on the I'rairic I'ortage i^ pro-
bably 19U feet above Cold Water Lake,
or nearly 9tH) feet above Lake .Supe-
rior. I'ortage du Milieu, lo5 indes
from Lake i^uporior. passes over a
low Biiudy ridge, it is Miii) feet above
Lake Superior, or 1,4<J!> feet above the
sea.

In the valley of Lake Wimiipeg the tirat prominent bcac
described in my llepoit on the Red Kiver lOxpedition of
tracing it for a very great distance near the shores of Lak(

Commencing east of lied Itiver, a few miles from Lake Winnipeg, this ridge pursues a south-westerly
course until it approac hcs Ued Kiver, within four miles of the Middle Sottlement ; here it was aseer-
taineil by levelling to be ilTA ft. aliove the prairie; on the opposite side of the ri\er. a beach on Stony
Mountain < orrespouds with the Mi'.r llidge, and beyond that curi<ius island in the prairie it is observed
forming the limit of a tiirmer extension of llio vallev of Lake Wimiipeg. On t!io east side of Ued Hivor
the liig UiiL'c i> traced nearly due south from the Middle Settloineiit to where it crosses tho Hosoaii,
4() miles from the moiilli of that stream, and on or near the 4!)th parallel. It is next met with at I'ine
C'l-eek, ill the Stale of Miunesot.i, and from this point it may ho said to form a continuous level gravel
rivul, beaiitiiully arched, and about 1''!' feet broad, the whoio distaiu'o to the shores of Lake Winnipeg,
nuire than IVO miles.

On tbi' west side of Ked liivcr, north of the 'll'tli parallel, and north of tlie Assiir.iiboini-, we followed
the Hig liidge from a point aliout tlirce miles west of Stony Mountain to near rrairic I'ortage. Here
it appears to have been rciimvcil bv the agency of the I'rairii- I'ortage Kiver ae ' the wateiv. of ihi;
A.ssiuniboiius which during very hiuli Hoods pass from the vallev of that river into Lake Manitoli.ili.

Z -2

•axviroa 311111

1 is the l!ig Uidge. This has been partially
\S'n. Last year I had an opportunity of
Manitobah.

180

KEPORTS or THE ASSINNIHOINE AND

It, or one of a few loot hi({hc'r olevHtion, win iiKuin ohgrrvcil on Wliito Mud River, i\\mut «0 milen went
of Lako MHnit'il)ali. lliTf it ivHt'iiil>li'(l in -very imrticiiiar tlii' riil^fc on tlicM>«j.t hido of Utul llivcr,
imng alioiit lo'i to 1-'" f»'»'t I'voad, ami 'J5 fi-ct abovi- tliu lovcl of the prairii'. It was a^ain notic-ed in
the roar of M«iiitol>iili Iloimi', wIuti- tlio Kanio i'liaractt'iiiitii'!< were prcscrvi'd. It prohalilv crosirM the
AsHiunilioiuc llin'o or four inilofi wcbt of I'ruiiie I'ortiijtc. 'I'lio ^riMicral contour of this riilge in KJiown
on the niiip.

In tlu- rear of Daniihin Lnko tho nt'xt ritlgo in tin- asn-nding sericii ncfurs; it form* nn cxccllont
pitching track for Indians on the cast tIaiiU of tlio Hiding Moiuitain. I'rolMibly tlionc ridgps are found
close together at the foot of the IVinliina Mountain, where no less than tour dintimt xteps (wcnr, as
shown on tlio map. 'I'he suininit of these steps may he the plateau whose altitude was ascertained by
Dr. Owen to lie '.'10 feet alxtve the prairie level, and the lirst and He<ond steps may he a part of the Uig
Hidgp, limiting the lowest level )irairies of Red Uiver and the AssinnilMiine.

'l\\e lower prairies emlosed by the Hig Kidge are everywhere intersected by small sulKirdinate ridges
which often die out, and are evidently the remains of siioals formed in the shallow ImmI of Lake Winnipeg
when its waters were limited by the llig Kidjje. Many opportunities for observing the present formation
of similar slioals occurred in Lake Manitolmh, St. .NIartln's Lake, Lake \Viinii|M-g, and Dauphin Lake.
These, when the lakes become drained, will have the form of ridges in the level country then exposed.
Indeed, it may be said that the region between Dauphin Mountain and Lake Manitobah, in the direction
of Khb and Mow Lake, and south of that body of water, is Imt recently drained, or ^lill in process of
draining, being renuived from the surface of Khb an<l 1 lo\v Lake l>y a very few feet, ami covered with
water to a large extent in the spring. .\t present if ((insists of marsh, bog, and ridge in c(mtinued
succession. When roin|iletely drained, the country will resemble the prestMit prairies of the ;\ssinni-
lioine, with the gentle rich depressi(ms, uid the low, dry, gravelly riilges.

The long lines of boulders exposed in two purnllcl, liori/ontal rows, alumt iJO feet apart, in the drift
of the South Uranch, are the records of lornu'r shallo.v lakes or seas in that region. They may represent
a coast line, b\it more probably low ridges formed under water, upon wImcIi the bouhicrs were stranded.
In Lake Manitobah anil St. Niartin's Lai,!-, modern instances, nnv in process of arrangement, are visible
for many miles in length. In these sliii"..>w lakes tlu'bmdders Imiught year by year by ice from the
neighbouring shore accunudate upon ! mg, narrow spits, and ul:'iiiatcly form breakwaters or islands.
Tbo same prcK'ess may have occurred with the boulders on ilic South Hranch. The tine layers of
itrutitied mud, easily split into thin leaves, which lie just above lliein, show conclusively that they were
deposited in ipiiet water; their horizontality proves that they ( . rupied an ancient coast nr ridge' below
the comparatively traiKjuil water ot a lake of limited extent. The vast accumulations of sail '. and clay
above them e-taldish the anti"|uity of the arrangement, and the occurrence of two such layers parallel to
one another, and separated by a considcralile accMinulation of clay and sand, leads to the iid'erence that
the conditional wiiicli established the existence of oiu' layer als<i prevailed during the arrangement of the
other. It mav be that these are luiulders distributed over the ! acI llooi- of a former lake or sea, and
they may cover a vast ari'a: if so, it only proves tliat the agents which brought them operated a second
time after a long interval, and with similai results.

The I'embina Mountain is /»/;■ ru-crl/mn- the ancient licadi in the valley of Lake Wimiipej;. Dr.
Owen described it as it occurs a few miles south of the 4!)tb parallel ; '• Alter a hot and fatigunig ride
" over the plains, we arrived an bi>ur after sunset 'it the (■ ■: i\ 'Aw l'einl)iini Mountain. In tbo twilight,
" as we stood at (Uir encampment on the plain, it lookci' is i!' it might be ;UH) feet or more in height;
" hut i': the morning, by broad dulii/bv. it seemed les^, Hhen I I'ame to measure it, I was some-
" what surjirised that it did not cxcecil i^l ■ '"• ;, 1 nlis. rscd on this as on many other occasii s that
*• a hill rising out of a level plain appears luAi^''!' tbi;i it r. ,illy is, especially when, as in this case,
*' the trees on its flank and summit are of email gvowtf I'cnibnia Mountain is, in fact, no mountain
" at all, nor yet a bill. It is a terrace of tuble-land, tiic an. lent shore of a great body of water, that
" once tilled the whole of the lied Hiver valley. On its suinniil it is ipiite level, and extends so for
" .about five miles westward to another terrace, the suaunit of wliicb I was told is level with the great
" '''do I'laiun that stretch away toward the Miss'juri, the hunting grounds of the Sioux and the
" ii,i! ;• 1 nopulation of lied Uiver.

• ' •• . ■ being composed of ledges of rock, ps I was led to suppose, it is a moss of incoherent

« .,1 ! ■» c'ld shingle, so eittirely destitute of cement, that with tbo hand alone a hole several

■ •■ be excavated in a few minutes. The I'embina Uiver has cut through this material a
•• ... .alley but little eleviited above the adjacent plain. Along its banks are precipices of

" sanu, ; ...u.unted liy gravel and a few boulders. I was told that it was impossible to a.seend these
" banks. So I'wse is the deposit, that, no sooner is an ascent attempted, than the stones M or 10(»
" feet above, aic detached, and come tumbling down at suih an alarming rate tii.u the climber is glad
" to infido his escape."*

An inspection of the map will show the contour of the Pembina Mountain as tar as ascertained. It
will be observed that where Mr. Dick -nson ascended it, 1.3 miles north of the 49tb parallel, it occurs in
four distinct terraces. It crosses the Assinniboino near tha Had Woods, blonds with the Hiding and
Duck Mountains, and proliably a))pears again on the Main Saskatchewan, ii'J miles from the Grand
Forks. The elevation of the entire country east of this long ancient coast line is about 7<i() feet alwve
the level of the ocean, and it forms the boundary of a distinct tract of lowland, in jwrt surpassingly rich,
as over the Hod Uiver and Assmniboine prairies, and the region on the Main Saskatchewan slig

lightly
lime-

elevated above the area .subjected to annual overflow ; part covered with swamp, marsh, or level
stone rock, on which a few inches of soil affords nourishment to small spruce, taniarac, and aspen; and
finally, by a shallow water area extending over 13,10(1 square miles, and embracing lakes which rank
with the first class in point of superficies on this continent.

High above the Pomliina Mountain the steps and plateaux of the Hiding and Diirk Mountains arise
in well-defined succession. On the southern and south-western sloiies of these ranges the terraces are
distinctly defined, on the north-easv and north sides the Hiding and Duck Mountains present a prcci-

* I'iigf .7". Geologiial fiurvey of luwa, Wikcon^it), aiMl Minnesota.

SASKATCHEWAN KXI'LOKINCJ EXPEDITION.

|iitoii8 eHi'iirpnicnt wliic:li in cloviitcd fully l.fMMifirt iilxivo Lnku \Vintiip<')r< or more tliuii l|C*iii fcot ahovu
the Ht'ii.

Stiini'iiig (HI the iMlffi' <if tliB esciirpmcnt nf tho lliilin^ Mniintiiin aiul liiiikitijf in the (lircctiuii of
L)au|)l in l.nk", a gM muni- 'JM) fi'vt docp is Hiiiccfdoil liy two riiiigi% diii- lower than llii' ntlier, nf coiio-
shaped hills <over('d with Ixudders. Tht' hilJH iiii' paiallol to the f{( iicral troiid ot'tlio cmarpiiiont; hdhk!.
timiM 'licy are lost iiii tlic platuaux nii which they rest. In other placcn tlioy staiuf nut an hold
eniiiieiu'UH, -showing the oxtpiit of the denudation which ^avc rise tu ihcni. 'I'licse riuigcs iifcnnicul hillii
c'orrcipiind v/ith tcrriiceM on the went sidenf the inoiuitain. 'I'liey arc the result of tTie same denuding
foreeH which Imve left their inipress upon the went flank, and were formed liy tiie unequal wearing away
of the eaxt flunk, ut the time when the terraces on the opposite Hide were in procens of arrangement.

I estimated the Hunnnit of Dear llill, one of the most i>roininent of the conical hills He|iiu'atcd from the
edge of the escarpment liy ii deep vaUey, ut HOii feet altove Lake Winnipeg; if to this altitude we udd
O'JS feet, the height of Lufce VVinnijM'g above the seu, the elevation of the first terrace helow the sinnmit
of the mountain will he ulKiut 1,4VN ti'et. 'I'hiit altitude corresponds in a rennirkahle manner with the
«und hunk on the Orent Dog Portage, which has heen found to have an elevation of 1,43k feet aliove the
Ocean, (irent Dog I'ortage is .^oo mileii <liiitiint in an air line from Hear llill, (m the Hiding Moun-
tain. The Hecond tier of conirul hilla xtunds upon the second pliiteuuN from the sunmiit, and very pro-
liulily correspondii with the IVmliinu Mo\mtuin ; the altitude of the -lunniit of I'emliina Moinitain aliove
the sea is aUiut U.'id feet, and that of the second plateau, according' to ourestinuite, nearly the same.

The <lenudiition which hiis taken (ilaee in the valley of Lake U'innipcg is enormous. I'i've hundred feet

aliove Dauphin Lake the C'retaceouH shales crop out on the north-eastern tlank : tin sitiun is nearly

horizontal, and their thickness very great ; they must have extended very (m ' li-ca«t, proliahly

to the north chore of Lake Wimii|ieg, covering the hori/ontal limestones whic the Dog's Head

and elsewhere on the western coast of that lake. It is not unlikely that li. .it. us will esta-

l)li«h a fonner connexion U-lwccn tin' (iraud C'nteau de Missouri, tlie Turtli l>ii '^, Thunder,

I'orcupiiu-, and I'asqnia .Mountains. It seems to me that they were formerly lu grand talilo

land consisting of Cretaceous and Tertiary fornnitions, which na\c licen -uhji i< .o nous deuuda-

tion, ami covered |o a large extent with drift clays and sands, and with boulders oi the unfosailiferoua
rocks.

.'i. • •'«(((/ //Ills iiii'l Ihiiiin.

The most extensive of tliese unstulile ra iges arc shown on the large map, and the posnitinn of those
of smaller dimensions is indicated liy a note.

It is needless to remark that the region they occupy is almost alistdntely barren. Many of the hilln
and dunes are contiinmlly ex^iosiug fresh surfaces, sometimes beautifully ripple marked, 'llie iiroba-
liility of thcii being the remauis of 'I'ertiary deposits is noticed in a t-ub»ei|uenl chapter. The following
are the mos< extensive ranges:—

1. Sai\d hills and dunes of the .\!<8inniboine, extending from the Uad Woods to a short distance
beyond I'iiie Creek, •)<> miles.

'J. Sand hills of the Souris.

;>. .Sand hills and dunes of the Qu'Appclle.

4. Sand hills and dimes of the .South Hraneh.

o. Sand and gra\el ridges north of the Touchwood Mills.

0. ('irru/iir Oeitmsioiis.

This curious disposition of the drift, probably <lue to a re-arrangement of its materials, is of not
uncommon occiirreiK'e south-east of the ToucIiwocmI Hills. Circular depressions, varyhig from 100
yards to half a mile in diuiucter, appear in the ])rairi4>s, generally surrounded by a ridge of sand or
gravel. Many of them are quite dry, others hold water, often but not always brackish. The deepest
and largest depression noticed was about 600 yards across and 40 feet below the general level.

7. Kfi'fcts of Jteiiiidation.

An adequate conception of the effects of denudation in the valley of Lake Winnipeg can be best
attained if we revert to the period when the Cretaceous shales now , forming the flanks of the Turtle,
Riding, Duck, I'orciipine, and Pas({uia Mountains, resting probably tii)oii lX>vonian rocks, occupied the
Imsins of Lakes Manitohah and Winnipeg, and found their eastern limits near tt.e present outcrop of the
Laurentian series. In order to complete our view of the extent of this great physical movement, we
must conceive the same shales and sandstones in part overlaid by Tertiaries, filling the depressions or
valleys in the Cretaceous rocks (the result of denudation), and forming with that elevated tract an
extensive, wide-spread table-land. These relations become more evident upon an inspection of the
sections. The great gulf, nearly 1,000 feet deep, between the summit of the Duck and Hiding Mountainti
and the Laurentides has been in great part excavated by denuding forces during and since the Tertiary
pericKl.

Z 3

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

I.I

If: i^ IIIIM

•^ 1^ 12.2

I" I'O

2.0

1.8

1.25 U ||.6

— ►

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III

isa

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

In the section and on the map the 'i^hunder, Porcupine, and Fasquia Mountains are represented as
being cupped by Cretaceous rocksi, but it is not iin;>robuble from the circumstance that lignite has been
found in tne drift of the valley of Swan Iliver, and that Indiana who hunt in th's region speak confi-
dently of the occurrence of lignite near the summit of Thunder and Porcupine Mruntains, ttiat patches
of Tertiary formations which have < :-t'apcd denudation may still exist there. Thusn.uch appears certain,
that the denudation of the valley of Lake Winniiieg belongs part to the Tertiary and part to the Post-
Tertiary epochs, 'llic great valleys leading to the Post-Tertiary sea, which was the main agent in etfecting
the denudation, were excavated posterior to the boulder drift period. These are the Main Saskatchewan,
Red Deer Kiver, Swan Uiver, Valley River, and the Assmniboine, all of which cut tlie Cretaceous
shales at right angles to the denuded face of the series of escarpments which these rocks in great part
form.

The outcrops of the different formations, as far as they are known, follow tiie general direction of the
rim of the basin of unfossiliferous rocks in wiiich they arc deposited with remarkable tniiformity. Con-
forming to the direction of the Lanrentian system exposed on the east side of Lake Winnipeg, the
Silurian scries stretches from Pembina on the 49th |)arallcl, to the Siiskatchewan on the o4th, and
thence towards the Arctic Sea.* Following its outcrop the Devonian series is symmetrically developed
between the same distant boundaries ; hut the most singular feature of this region is, that the soft
Cretaceous shales should also conform with tolerable exactness to the exposed edges of the unfossili-
ferous rim of the great basin in which they lie. The occurrence of Cretjiceous forms in the valley of
the Mackenzie is a remarkable proof of the extension of this series in that direction, 'i'hc present
nucleus of the fossiliferous basin is occupied by the great lignite formation of the 'I'ertiaries of the Grand
Coteau do Missouri; and so symmetrical is this arrangement, that a line drawn through any part of the
country from that part of the Grand Coteau de Missduri, whicli lies witiiin Rritish territory, to any
point lietween Pembina and the Grand Forks of the Saskatchewan, would pass over proportionally
extensive areas of the Tertiary, Cretaceous, Devonian, Silurian, and Laurentian series.

CHAPTLU XVII.

TIIK LAURl'.XTIAX SKUIF.S. TIIK SII.UIIIAN SF.niKS. — THE DEVONIAN SKIIIKS.

Distribution of Formations. — The Laurentian Series — The Laurcntidcn — The Luurentian System described

Kconomic Materials in — Distribution of tlie Laurcntinn .Serius in the Uasin of Lake Winnipeg. — The
Silurinn Series — The Chazy Formation — Deer Island — (irinilstone Point — Tlie Potsdiim Sandstone — Pro-
bable Fossils in the Laurentian Series — I'otsdani Sandstime on the South Shore of Luke Superior — The
Bird's Kyo Limestone — The Hud? )ii Kiver (jroup. — The Devonian Scries S'llt Springs — List of Salt
Springs where Salt is gathered and manufactured — Mode of extraclin<; Salt liy Solar Lvapnration —

Formation superior to the Devonian — Western Limit of the Devonian Series — The Itidiiii; Alountain

Absence of Drift Pronfs — Limit of Area in which Formations between the Devonian and (retareons may
be found — Probable absence of the Carboniferous Series — The Nebraska Series — Kansas Uoek — Permian
Series — Jurassic or Triassie Series iirobable in Kansas — .Cretaceous Hocks repose on Juras'lc in Nebraska
— Probability of the occurrence of the Cuul Measures in the Uasin of Lake Winnipeg.

DISTRIBUTION OF FORIMATIOXS.

The distribution of scries of formations in the order of their occurrence in the valley of Lake Win-
nipeg and the .Saskatchewan is as follows : —

1. Lai iiKXTiAX .Si;iiii;s.
'J. ,Sti.iiiii\x „

3. Dkvonian „

4. C'lir.TACKOUS „

5. TeUTIAI!Y „

The Laiiiiextian SEniKs.

The whole eastern coast of Lake Winnipeg and the adjacent islands are Laurentian. Sir .lolui
Richardson, who voyaged alon;; this shore in his journey to the Arctic Sea, remarks that " along the
" whole eastern shore the granite, gneiss, ami trap rocks arc everywhere exposed, the first-named rock
" Ijeing the most extensive : and now here do these masses rise to the altitude of liills."t The origin of
the name Laurentian and the character of the rock series which comjiose this system is described by
Sir William Logan and Mr. Hunt in the following extract from a "Sketch of the Geology of Canada.''

'riie Luureiitides.X

" The province of (!"aiiuda is traversed, tlnouiih its w hole length, by a mountainous region dividing it
into two basins, which may lie distiiigiiislicdas the Northern and the Southern luuiiiis. 'J'liese mot.iitains
which have been iiiimed the Laurciitidcs, form the north shore of the St. Lawrence, from the Gulf as
far as Cape Tourmcnfc, near tjueber, from whi<'h point they leave the river, and while they follow its
general direction lieeomc more anil niory remote, until, near Montreal, they arc at a distance of 10
leagues from the SI. Lawrence, tiding further westward, this mountainous region follows the Hue of

• Ste Mr. Isbislcr's .Map,— IVocfi-iiitttT
t .\rclic .Senri-liiiij; Kxiiotii'iun, p.ijv .>i>;
% A .Skt'lcli »f tlic tictilogv ol C'ainiil
t^nirorsal Kxhibiliall lit Pariv. 1

^' '.\.^ Unval (it'olo^ical Sucifty.

Am. i;.!.

serving l>i i'X|>liiin the gi'iiloRlial niap nnd roluctiun of Lc(>nouiic Matcriulu Si'llt to tLi
liy W. i:. l.ngan, F.U.S., iiuil T. Mirry lliiiil, .\.'S\.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

183

the Ottawa, and crossp- this river near the Lac des CImta, 50 Icagtiesi from Jlontreal. Thence taking a
southward direction, it reaches the St. Lawrence near the outlet of Lake Ontario, and from this point
running north-westward, the southern limit of this formation reaches the south-eastern extremity of
Lake Huron, at Matohcdash Day, and forms the eastern shore of the lake, as far as the 47th degree of
latitude, where, c[uitting this lake, the formation gains Lake Superior, and extends in a north-west
direction to the Arctic Sea.

" To the south of the St. Lawrence tliis same regions covers a considerahle space between the Lakes
Ontario and C'hamplain, and constitutes tlic Adirondack mountains. With this exception, and, perhaps,
also a small exposure in Arkansas, and another near the sources of the Mississippi, this formation ia
not found to the south of the St. Lawrence, and as it belongs especially to tiic valley of this river, and
constitutes the Lnurentidc Mountains, the Geological Commission of Canada has distinguished it by
the name of the Limrtntian system^'

The Laurmtian IS'ystem,

" The rocks of this system are, almost without exception, ancient sedimentary strata, which have
become highly crystalline. They have been very mucli disturhetl and form ranges of hills, having a
direction nearly north-oast and south-west, rising to the heiglit of !i,00ii or 3,0()0 feet, and even higher.
The rwks of tliis formation arc the most ancient known on the American continent, and correspond
probably to the oldest gneiss of Finland and Scandinavia and to some similar rocks in the north of
Scotland.

" The rocks of the Laurentian formation are in great part crystalline schists, for the most part
gneissoid or homblendic. .\88ociated with these schists arc found large stratified masses of a crystalline
rock, which is composed almost entirely of a lime and soda felspar. This rock is sonu>tinies fine-grained,
but more often porphyritic, and contains cleavable masses of felspar, sometimes several inches in diameter;
these felspars are triclinic, and have ordinarily thi^ composition of andesiuc, hihradurite, anorthite, or
of internu'diatc varieties. Their i oluiiis arc various, hut the clcavable felspars are generally bluish or
reddish, and often give coloured reflections. Hypcrstlienc is very generally disseminated in these fel-
gpatiiic rocks, but always in small (juantity. Titanic iron ore is also fouiwl in them, in a great number
of places, sometimes in small grains, but often in c(insideral)le masses.

" With schists and felspars are f()nn<l strata of quartzite, associated with crystidliuc limestones, which
occupy an important place in this formation. These limestones; occur in beds of from a few feet to
3fi<> feet in tmckncss. and often present a succession of thin biMls intercalated with beds of gneiss or
quart/.itc; these latter are sometimes ([uartzite ccmglomcratcs, and have in certain cases a base of
(iolomitc. Associated with these limotones are s^onu'times found bols c(im|)ose(l in great part of
wollastonite and of pyroxene, species wliicii evidently owe their origin to tlie metaniorphism of silicious
limestones. Hetls of doloiiiite and liniestoue, more or less magnesian, are often interstratified with the
pure limestones of this formatiim.

"The limestones of this system are rarely com])aot, and most fretpienfly arc coarsely granulated.
They are white or reddisli, liluisli or greyish, and these colours are often arranged in bands wiiieh
coincide with the stratification. The principal mineral species met witli in these limestones are apatite,
lluor, serpentine, phlogopitc, sca])olite, urlhiichise, pyroxene. lK)rnl>lcn(ie, wollastonite, rpiartz, idocrase,
fjarnet, i)rown tourmaline, clioiidriKliti, s|iiuel. iiiruiidinn, zircon, s|ilienc, magnetic and s|)ecular iron,
and graphite. The cbondrodife and gnii)hitearc often arran;;cd in liands parallel with the stratilication.
Hcds of a mixture of woiliistonite and pyroxene arc .'•omctimes met witli, which are very rich in zirc(m,
sphcne, garnet, and iilocrase. 'Ihe most crystalline varieties of tlicr e limestones often exhale a very
fdjtid odour "hen briused. ITie limestones of this formation do not yield everywhere well crvstallized
miiuTals; near the Hay of Quintc there are lietls met with wliicii still preserve the sedimentary
character, and show only the commencement of metamorphisni.

"The <'oii(iitions in which tliey are xnnetimes foinid iii<licatc that the agents which have rendered
these limestones crystalline have been such as to render the carbonate of lime almost liipiid, and that,
while in tiiat slate, it has uiulergone great iircssure. As evidence of tliis opinion, we find that the
limestone <iften fills fissures in the adjacent silicious ••trata. and envelopes tiie dctaciicd and olten folded
fragments of these less fusilile beds precisely like an igneous rock.

" The crystalline schists, felspars, (piartziles, and felspars, •.vhicli we have described, make up the
stratified portion of tlie Laurentian system, but there are liesides intrusive granites, syenites, and
diorites, which form important masses; the granites are sometin'.es albitlc, and often contain black
tourmaline mica in large plates, zircon, and sulpburet of molyhdenuni.

•• Among the economii minerals of this formation the ores of iron lu-e the most important and are
generally ibund associated with the limestones."

The Laurentian rocks which form the east coast of Lake Winnipeg strike otf at its north-east corner,
and, passing to the north of Moose Lake, go on to Heaver Lake.*

'I'he oidy exposure of Laurentian rocks seen within the area cxi)lored west of Lake Winnipeg were
observed in St. Martin Lake; they have been describcil in Chapter l.\., jiage 101.

Thk Siixiiiax Sf.riks.

Nearly the whole length of the western coast of Lake Wiimipeg is composed of limestones, sand-
stones, and shales of Silurian age. From Hig HIack Island to the rapids on Red River the formations
are concealed by (piatenniry deposits. ( )n the south-east coast limestone is occasionally seen in position,
but its junction with the Laurentian scries near the mouth of the Winnipeg is ccmcealed by drilt.

The formations whicli have been recognized on Lake Winnipeg, and in tlie valley of Red Hiver are —
1. The Chazy Formation.
'J. The Hird's-eye „

3. The Trenton „

4. The Hudson River (iroup.

* Sir Juliii Uicharilson't Juurnal of a Ud^ii \'o\ age, &<;., page VJ,

Z 4

Ain, Ed,

184

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Chazy FHrmatimt.

The following section occurs on Deer Island, and for the sake of convenience this and other sections
are introduced in the order of their occurrence.

No. 1. Four feet of dark neen argillo-arcnaceous shale, with thin layers of sandstone of unevea
thickness — fucoids very abundant in the sandstone. Tiie weathered sandstone is reddish brown ; fresh
surfaces are white or grey. White iron pyrites, assimilating the forms of disks, spheroids, and shells,
occurs in the sandstone. A ModiohpsU is common in the shale.

No. 2. In many rebpccts like the former; the sandstone layers are from one to four inches in thick-
ness, and predominate over the shaly jiortions. Its thickness is six feet The character of these
formations (1 and 2) is very variable; the green argillaceous portion sometimes predominates, ancf
occasionallv the sandstone.

No. 3. Ten feet of sandstone with green bands of a soft argillaceous rock, from one quarter to four
inches in thickness. The sandstone often white, but generally red. A persistent green band, a few
inches thick, filled with obscure forms resembling fucoids, is very characteristic. The red coloured
sandstone is often soft and friable, the white frequently embodied in the red. Doth red and white con-
tain obscure organic forms. The green patches which are found throughout the sandstone contain
impressions of tucoids; an OrthociTin viaa found in the sandstone. In some parts of the exposure on
Deer Island the sandstone layers are much harder, although partaking of the characters already
descril)ed. When thus hard, the white portion is extremely lirilliant, of a pure white, and very sih-
cious; it would form an excellent material for the manufacture of glass. Fonns coloured brown
often pervade the white sandstone and appear to resemble fucoids and corab replaced by browiv
ochreous sand.

No. 4. Eighteen feet of limestone, pi'rfectly horizontal, ver^ hard, and breaking oB' the cliff where
the soft sandstone has been weathered away in huge rhomboidal slabs, 8 to 25 feet in diameter, and
4 to 10 inches thick.

The surface of the limestone shows silicificd shells and corals, among the shells an Ortlioceraa nine
inches in diameter was seen, with others belonging to the genus Hhmtehoiiella. (I'age 9C.)

The rocks at Grindstone I'oint, about six miles north of Deer Island, urc similar to those described
in the foregoing section. Ueing further north, the exposure is higher, and the sandstone bands more
fully shown. Beneath No. 1 of Deer Island a hard, yellow, compact sandstone is exposed for a space
of four feet above the level of the water. Strata No. 1 and No. 2 of Deer Island ap|>ear in a slightly
different form here : the sandstone bands are thicker ; the green shaly portion more <listinct as a sepa-
rate imiiil, and two feet thick ; while aliove the hard yellow sandstone, the base of No. 1 appears in the
form of a purple hand of very soft sandstone, al>out one foot in thickness, containing a vast numlx>r of
stains, which seem to have Ix-en «)ccasione<l by fucoids.

The lithological character of the hard, yellow, compact sandstone beneath No. 1 of Deer Island,
when compared witii the sandstones, shales, and limestones which lie above it, suggests the idea that it
may belong to the I'otsdam sandstone formation. The occurrence of well known chu/.y forms in the
superior strata remove all doubt as ti> their age; but further investigation might establish the existence
of the fonnntiun which lies at the base of the fossiliferous rocks, as far as these arc known, in this
remote region.*

The lithological character of the I'otsdam sandstone on and near the south shore of Lake Superior
reseml)les tlic soft and friable chazy sandstone of Lake Winnipeg in a very remarkable manner. It is
not witiiout iiiterci-t that rocks bebmging to formations possessing so close a vertical relationship
should e\hii>it lithologirai characters almost identical in localities fully (iOO miles apart Neither
will it be thought imurobuble that more extended investigations may establish a still closer connexion.
Messrs. Foster and Whitney thus describe the Lake .Superior sandstone in their Report on the Geology
of the Lake .Superior Land District : —

" The I'otsdam sandstone of New York is a quartzose rock, whose particles are firmly aggregated,
while the same rock, on the northern slope of Lake Nlichignn, is "o slightly coherent that it may be
crushed in the hand. The calcilcrous sandstone of New Yor« when traced west passes into a magne-
sian limestone. Even in that State, according to Hall, g- nios i ' , at one extremity, are of great
importance, and well characterized by fossils, cannot be ideu n-i. : other.' (p. 114.) • « • •

" In descending the river (the Menomonee), it is first observu ■ ic foot of the Chippewa Island,

llie subjacent rocks in this vicinity consist of talcose slates, in Ucany vertical beds, intermingled with
dark, compact, igneous rocks and crystalline greenstone. Their contour is very irregular, as though

* Until liittly ttte l*ot!idam KantUtone hai Iw^n lupposcd to rvp-i;-. nt the epoch wlirn organic lif* was firu introduced bj tlie
Creator un the Kurfni-e of our globe. Recent cliscovarieii tend to thr<iir ^ck the first propling of the world inti> a past so indefinitely
remote, that all prcciinceivift ideas nf the organic history of the « .-..>! be,.onie iintvttled and at f-oilt. At the late meeting of Uie
American Scientific Association, Sir William Logan rxhibited a map illustrating the distribution of some of the lunds of chryslalline
limestone irtiiTslratified with the gneiss of the I^aurt-ntian Serits — the Asoi: Svries of some geologists. The following notice is frotis
TItt Canailiun Saturalitt and Cruhi'jixt, page llOO: —

** Although the l.aurenti:ui Series has hitherto been considered atoic, n search for fossils in them has not been neglected. Such
senreh is naturally conducted with great dillicullies. Any organic remains which may have been cntnnibed in these limestones would,
if they retainiil their calcareous I liuractcr, he almost ct-rtaihly obliterated hy crystallization, and it would be only Uirough their re-
placement by a dilferent mineral sulistance that there would be a chance of some of the forms being presersed. No such instances had
been observed on the iiivesttgation of the Kongo and its vicinity, but from another locality in the Laurentian formation, Mr. John
McMuUeo, one of the explorers of the (ieological .Survey, had ohuined specimens well worthy of attention. They consisted of
parallel or apparently coiu-vntric layers resembling tttose of tlie coral Stromatoecrium, except that they nnastomoze at various parts;
these layers consist of crystalline pyroxene, while the intenlicei are filled with crystalbxed carbonate of lime. These specimens bait
recalled to recollection others which hail been obtained from Dr. Wilson, of Perth, some years ago, and had not then been regarded
with sufficient attention. In these simil.ir liiiins "xre composed of green serpentine, concretionary, while the interstices are filled with
while dolomite. If it he supposed that both are the result of mere unaided mineral arrangement, it would seem strange that identical
forms should result from such iliflvrent minerals in jilaces so far apart, if Ihe specimens had bee i obtained I'rom the altered rocks of
the Lower Silurian series there would hare been tittle hesitation in pronouncing them to be fossils. The resemblance of these forms
to Stromatocerium from the llird's.eye limestone, when the total has been replaced by concrctiolury silica, is very striking. In the
pyroxenic specimens, the pyroxene aiul Ihe cartxinate of lime tieing both white, the forms, although weathered into strong relief on the
surface, are not peieeptibie in fresh fractures until the fragments are subjected to an acid, the application of which shows the structure
running throughout the mass. .Several specimens of thcw supposed fossils were eihibitcd to the section."

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

185

sections

unevea
n; fresh
■d shells.

brown
browiv

they had been abraded before the deposition of the arenaceous beds which occupy the inequalities in
the surface of the more ancient rocks, in horizontal layers. The sreatest inclination observed in the
superior rocks was 3° to the south-east. The mtuhtone cotuiitt nfaltemating bands of red and while, and
M tn/riable, whenjirst removed, that it mat/ be crushed in the hand. The grains are coarse and silicious,
adhering together without any visible cement After having parted with the water disseminated
through the pores, it acquires a considerable degree of consistency, and is little acted on by the
weather." (Page 188.) • • • • • • •

" In the neignbciirhooil of Pleasant Valley, about 12 miles west of Strong's Landing, on the Fox
Kiver, it is exposed in several low escarpments, succeeded by the calciferous sandstone which here
presents its usual characters. From this region its southern limit stretches to the west and north-west
ITie country here i)reseiits a feature which continues to the Mississippi River. The hills appear to be
outliers, cupped by the falcifcrous sandstone, or succeeding limestones, while the valleys and the lower
part of the escarpments are composed of the Potsdam. The rock is fine-grained, of a light yellow
colour, and very irinblc. Some of the superior bods, which are thin, have been wrought for grindstones.
The friable character of this sandstone is one of its most prominent features, and, owing to this circum-
stance, the escarpments are not usually high, or abrupt, unless it has been protected by the overlying
rock. In its want of cohesion it differs in a very marked degree from the ])revailing character of this
rock, as developed in New York and Canada, where it is usually, though not always, compact It is
not, however, unlike the sandstone of the Pictured Kocks, and is less friable than that of the Missis-
sippi and St. Ooix region. The almost uninterrupted continuity with which this rock can be traced,
even from its eastern extension through Canada, and along the northern shore of Lake Huron to the
St Mary's River, and thence westerly, leaves no doubt as to its true position and identity in age with
the Potsdam sandstone of New York. If we were at a loss in thus tracing it continuously, we hove
still the evidence of the succeeding fossiliferous strata, which show conclusively the same relations to
this sandstone as they do to its equivalent in New York. With both these evidences comV-ned, we
cannot hesitate for a moment in our conclusion regarding its aM and place in the series." (Page 133.)

Fine exposures of the chazy formation occur on Punk Islanil (see page 97) and along the west coast
north of Hig Orindstonn part as far as the Cat Head. They appear in tlie form of clitl's, varying from 25
to 45 feet in altitude at nearly all i)oint8 and promontories. The character of tht; rock is "described in
Chapter VII. At the narrows the three limestone promontories, the Hull's Head, Limet tone Cave
Point, and Whiteway's Point, approach within a few miles of the Laurentian scries on the east coast
'llu' strait from Whiieway's Point to the Dog's Head is not more than three miles across. Be ''ore this
narrow channel was excavated, I.ake Winnipeg must have been divided into two parts, like Lakes
Manitohiih and Winnipego-sis, and it is not improhiible that near the Dog's Head a rapid river or falls
once existed. The relation of the two hikes would then resemble the present relation of Lake Manitobah,
the Little .Saskatchewan, and I.ake Winnipeg.

The Hirdseye and Trenton Limeato)te.
The whole of the I'oast <m the north-west side of Lake Winnipeg is lepresciitecl by Sir John Richard-
son to be occupied by the Hirdseye Limestone. Near the First and l!<ccond Rock;* Points the strata
<'ontain many gigantic orthoceratites, which have been described by Mr. Stokes in the Geological
Transactions.*

Ill Pine Island Luke there are exposures 30 feet in altitude, containing Orthc'-fr'ttn .imj Uereptaculites
urptnuii.^ The strike is simth-west by west and iiorth-oiist by east, being at right angles to the general
tlirection of the I^aiirentides.

The Hudson Itiver Group,

Tiiis formation appears in ditls 2.'> feet high at the Stone Fort, Red River. It is also exposed near
the rapids. Most of the forts and dmrches in the settlements are constructed of stone from this
rock. The colour of its weathered surface is a pale yellowish gray, but of fresh surfaces a white gray.J
Dr. Owen visited Red River Settlements in 1S4H,§ and described the fossils he found near the Stone
I'ort in his Report, jiublished in lft.')2. Dr. Owen says: —

" About 20 miles below the mouth of the Assinniboino, near lower Fort Garry, solid ledges of lime-
stone lire exposed of a light buff colour, sometimes mottled, spotted, or banded with light brown.
Immediately opposite the Fort a ctmsidcrablc iunount of rock lias been (iiiarried, and used in the
construction ol the building. In these beds I succeeded in finding several well-defined and characteristic
fossils, suflicicnt to establish, without the least doubt, the age of the Red River limestones.

" They are : Fiivnsites hasnltiai ; Coscinnpora sulcata ; hemispherical masses of Si/rim/opora ; Chtitetes
h/cojierdon ; a t'onidaria; a small, beautiful, undetermined species of I'leurorhynchus ; Onnoceros
Urongniuiii ; I'leurotomiiria Icnticuhiris If) ; Lcptmia ulteriuita ; Liptuna pluno-cunrcta (?) ; Ccdymene
*ennria ; and several specimens of the shield of tllirniu crassicauda,

" .Many of these arc identically the same fossils which occur in the lower part of F. 3, in Wisconsin
and Iowa, in the blue limestoues of Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, and also in the lower
Silurian of Europe.

" I'hc Coscinopora is precisely the same as the coral, which is particularly characteristic of the lower
beds of the upper Magnesian limestone of Wisconsin. The specimens of Favosites basaltica caniiol be
distinguished trom those which abound in the upper Magnesian limestones of Wisconsin and Iowa, and
the lower Coralline lieds of the Falls of the Ohio. It is also worthy of note that these limestones of Red
River, like their equivalent in Iowa and Wisconsin, are highly magnesian, containing from 17 to 4U per
cent of the carbonate of that alkaline earth.

" Beyond the settlements of Red River, no opportunity is atTorded on that stream for making further
observations on the rock formations of the country.

* Jouninl of a Uuat Voyage tlirotigli Kupvn*» Land, p. •I9« Am, Ed.

f IbitL, imgc 5-t,

^ Sw! Red lliver Heport, |Mgc 294.

$ GcolugiciU Iteport an Wiscuiitin, Iowa, mid Minnesota, page 181.

A a

^.1*;

185

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

"A mile or two below the Cree village the river enters a tract of low land, and then meanders for
more than SO miles through a morass, before it finally disembogues into Lake Winnipeg.

" On the south shore of that lake, however, I again had an opportunity of inspecting fossiliferous
limestones in titu. At the two localities where I succeeded in obtaining a view of them, they were
much disturbed, dipping either at _ a high angle, or standing vertically. On Poplar Point they are
quite thin-bedded, and contain, besides small EtUrachites, largo varieties oi Endocerui. In a small bay,
near Big Swamp Point, the limestone is seen jiitting nut beneath heavy, loose massei: >. ' crystalline
rocks, some of which weigh hundre<i3 of tons. The surfaces of many of the limestone slabs at this
locality are crowded with wcll-prc8crve<l specimens of the characteristic fossil Leptwna allertiata,"

f I

TiiK Dkvoxian Skbirs.

In consequence of the extreme flatness of the country, the junction of the Silurian and Devonian
series bos been only approximately determined, chiefly by the occurrence of the saline springs which
distinguish the Devonian series in this region. In all cases where saline springs were seen issumg from
rock ni position, Devonian formations were recognized by characteristic fossils. Several of these
localities have been described in Chapter XI.

In 1823 Mr. Keating* noticfd tlie salt snrings in Minnesota State and Dacutah territory for south
of the boundary line. Even at that early period in the history of tiic Settlements on Re«l River
500 dollars were cleared by one individual during one winter from the sale of the salt he had
manufactured from springs near Pembina. The prici> of salt in the Settlement was then six dollars per
baiTel weighing 80 pounds. At a spring on Saline River, south of the boundary line. Major Long's
party found the l<fJin>rHi<i liirlmcea growing very abundantly around it. " Mr. Schweiiiitz states, on
" the autiiority of Mr. Nuttnll, tiiiit this is the only inland locality of this plant, besides the Onondaga
" salt springs in the State of Now York."

In the valby of La Riviive Sali'-, salt springs are very numerous, and the ground in their vicinity is
frequently covered with a tiiick incrustation. Many years since the half-breeifs of the Settlement used
to collect salt from this valley for domestic purposes. The names .Saline Creeks and Salt Points on Red
River, north of the 4!Uh parallel, were given in consequence of springs strongly impregnated with salt
occurring there, but south and west of Stony Mountain no rocks in position have Iwcn observed east of
Pembina Mountain. The whole country is nearly borizontul, having a mean elevation of about 130
feet above Lake Winnipeg.

Subjoined is a tal)le sliowing the localities, north of the 4yth parallel, where salt springs occur, dis-
tinguishing between springs i'roin wbicli salt has been and has not been manufactured or collected as a
crust on the surface of the ground : —

1. .Salt Brook

'>. Salt Point

3. La Uiviire Salii

A. Salt Point

;'). Turtle River

fi. f'raiii' River

7. Moulunan's Salt Wiirks.

Red River.

These

10.

Swan River

"iVinnipej,. . - — ,„

West Coast of Lake Nlaiiiti)l)ali in many places,

Collected from incrustations by the side of the sjirings.

incrustations are often two inches in thickness.
Winiiipcgo-sis Lake.
Dauphin Lake — collected by Indiaus.
Manitnbab Lake —collected by Indians.
Winniiic!^i)-sis Lake- nianufaiturcd by .lobii Moukinan,

Chapter X.
Manuiacturcil for II. B. Co.

West Coiust of Winnipej;i)-sis Lake in inan^- places.
West Coast of Lake
12. The Pas .Mountain.

It has been already stated (Cliaptcr X.) that the processes employed in the manufacture of salt in
Rupert's Land are of tlie rudest description. By the eniployiuent of simple artifices tlie yield might
be preatly incrciiscd, and its market value reduced to one Courlb the price it brings at the Settlements.
In the valley of La Rivii'rc Salr, about 26 miles from Fort (lUrry, springs issue from the sides of the
hills in positions very favourable for the employment of solar eva|)oration in shallow basins, which might
hi- excavated at a lower level than the spring, and salt extracte<l without the employment of artificial
heat ; an immense advantage in a country where fuel is scarce and labour dear.

In the State of New York between .')ii(J,(XX) and GOO,il(K) bushels of salt are now ma<le nnnually by
solar evaporation. Wooden vats are cnqjloved, with moveable roofs, so that the brine may be protected
at the approach of unfavourable weather. The avenige daily supply of brine at these works during six
months of the year is 2,000,000 gallons, and the cost ])er barrel ot 3(M) lbs. is one dollar. Salt made by
the boiling process weighs .'J'i poiuids to the bushel, ; :)'iir made salt 75 pounds. By the lioiling process
at Onondaga the cast-iron kettles, holding from .(O to 7o gallons each, are disposed in double rows above
suitable furnaces teciinically called " blocks." Kach block contains from .W to Tn kettles, and manu-
factures during eight months of the year from 'Jo.OOO to 25,000 bushels of salt.

In ISOii the number of bushels of salt made at the Onondaga Salt Works was 50,000; in 1810,
•45(1,0110 busbcls; in \f•^i\ 1,435,446 bushels; in 1 840, 2,622,305 bushels ; in 1H50, 4,268,910 bushels;
and in 1857, 4,:;<i0.00i I bushels.

Thi' slrengtli of tlu; briiie is measured by a " salometer," whose zero is distilled water, and maximum,
represented b\- lOO, is water saturated with common salt. The brines of Onondaga vary from 76° to
44'^. Wells '.vliich ilo not furnish lirine above .Id" are not considered worth working.

The sea-walcr at Nantucket gives a bushel of salt to every 380 gallons; at the -alt springs of
Zancsvillc, Ohio, 1)5 gallons funiif.li the same quantity of salt, while the old wells of Ciiondaga yield

• M.ijor Long'i K^pcdition to the Sourcci o." Si. Peter's Rirer.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

187

for

one bushel from 40 to 4!> gallonti, and the new wells at Syracuse the same quantity from 80 to S6
gallons of brine.* 'llic wells on VViiiuipego-His L;-.ko yield one bushel of salt from So gallons of brine.

The value of the salt trade in the United States may l)c inferred from the following statistics: —

BusnL'U.
In 1S40 the quantity of foreign salt imported was - - 8,183,203

In IHiSO „ „ „ „ „ - 11,224,185

In I8fi7 „ „ ,, » „ - - 17,165,704

The value of the foreign salt consumed iti 1H57 amounted to nearly iJ,()00,()O0 dollars', and the value
of foreign and domestic salt exported from the States during the same year was 230,000 dollars.

In Mr. Sterry Hunt's Kcportf for 18S5 the excellent method pursued in France for the manufacture
of salt from 3ea water is described at length, and many features of this jirocess might be very profitably
employed in Rupert's land.

'Tlie most eastern exposure of the Devonian series recognized l)y fossils of that age occurs on
'ITiunder Island, St. Martin's Lake; the most westerly exposure is seen on Moss River, and it is
lietween tlieso two points that, as far as known, brine springs are most numerous. Barren areas sur-
rounding brine springs are of frequent occurrence at the foot of the range of hills from the Riding
Mountam to tlie Pas. In a country nearly horizontal, where the attitude of the rocks conforms to the
general surface, it will be at all times very difficult to determine the precise line of junction between
succeeding series, and fortunately in the present instance the brine springs which undoubtedly have their
source in Devonian rocks alFord an exci'llent guide in determining tiio outcrop and extent of the series.
As far as my "bsiTvations eiiiiblt'd nu- tujiidjicthcreisno difference in the general aspect of the country
occupied by the Silurian and Dcvunian series in this region. The rock of cither age almoiit everywhere
approaches the surface and Ih covered with a f-jw inches of vegetable mould. Where fires have occurred
the soil is burned away and tlio biirc Miifaco exposed. Very few areiis of drift were seen; the most imposing
being sonic low hills on St. Martin's Lake. Denudinfj forces appear to have cut down the surface of
tlic country to one nearly uiiifinin level I'runi the Kiclniff Mountain ranges to the Laurentides. The
upper extremity only of this excavated \idley being covered many feet deep with ({uaternary deposits
through which Red 'Hiver, the Assinniboine, and White Mud River have cut their channels.

The western limits of the Devonian series are shown on the nuq) to follow the bouiulary of the Great
Cretaceous table land »>• well defined by I'endiina Mountain, Riding Mountain, Duck Mountain,
Porcupine Hill, the I'as Mountain, ami the high plateau similar to Pembina Mountain which stretches
from tne Pas to the Main Saskatchewan, near and below Fort a la Corne. The country as the base of
this continuous boundary is unifonnly horizontal, and while Devonian rocks in position were seen within
80 miles, and brine springs within 10 miles of (."retaccous shales on the precipitous flanks of the Riding
Hill range, yet no evidence of any intermediate formation was visible.

During the ascent of the Riding Mountain a very careful search was made for traces in the ilrift of
the higher series, in the bo]>e nf obtaining evidence of the existence of Carboniferous rocks, but without
success. The boulders so numerous on the ridges and the successive terraces were carefully examined,
but they were found to be derived altogether from the Laurentian series, or the limestone of Lake
Winnipeg, or the superior (Cetaceous shales.

The preseiu'c of fragments of any particular rock in the drift of Canada affords presumptive evidence
of the existence of the parent rock in position some <listance to the north of the place where the detritus
is found.

If rocks occupying a position between the Devonian and Cretaceous series exist on the flanks of the
Riding Mountain', it is [vrobuble that traces would have been discovered in the drift. The space in which
inenil)ers of the Carbonif'eious scries or superior formations might occur is narrowed down to a strip
10 miles in breadth lictweeu the salt springs south of Dauphin Lid»o and the outcrop of the Cretaceous
shales op the flanks of the Mountain. (See Chapter X. fdr a description of the ascent of the Riding
Mountain.) At lea.-t seven miles of this distance is so nearly horizontal that it does not rise 20 feet
above Dauphin Lake, and the dip of the Devonian strata is uniformly at a very small angle to the soutli-
west, vshere exposures were seen on Manitobah Luke. (Small local deviations from a uniform dip on
Snake Island and Moss River are noticed in Chapter X. and XI.) 'I'he Cretaceous shales were found
exposed on the tlanks of the mountain, about 400 feet above Dauphin Lake, and the rise from tlic level
country at the foot of the mountain to that altitude is embraced within two and a half or three miles;
yet within this narrow limit the drift on the slojies between each terrace, on the terraces themselves, or
m the bottom of gullies excavated by mountain streams, gave no evidence of other rocks than those
already named. It must be admitted that the time I could devote to an examination of the boulders
was short, and a more minute search might give other results.

With this negative evidence in view, it appears tolerably certain that the Carboniferous series is not
represented in the only locality where it may be looked for with much chance of success. Nevertheless,
lietwecn the Devonian and Cretaceous series in the basin of Lake Winnipeg tlieio is still a vertical
section fully 4oo feet in altitude, which is concealed by drift on the flanks of the Iliiling Mountain,
covering a horizontal area two and half to three miles broad. It is possilile timt witliin this
naiTow limit, or further to the north where the area may be broader, rocks of Carboniferous, Permian,
Triassic, or .liirassic age, may be yet found. With a view to show the relation which the Cretaceous
and ('arl)onifcrous series have to one another in lower latitudes, the following brief notice of their
occurrence in Nebraska and Kansas is introduced.

In Neliraska the Carboniferous scries, or the coal measures, are exposed at the mouth of the Platte,},
and extend up the river about 60 miles, when tlicy dip beneath the water level of the Missouri. They

* The IINtorv. Cumnieri-i-, Smirces. Miinuractiire, an<1 vroliumicnl Viilue of Salt con^umud in and ciportcd from the United States ;
by Williani C. I>eiinis uf Kiy \Ve>t, Florida.— Patent Ulliou lUfiotl, lASl.

t Itt'port for tlie yvnr is.j.l uf T. Sterry Hunt. Ksq., Clieiuist and Mineralogist to tlic Geological Survey, addressed to Sir William
Edinond Logan, F.K. S.. Director of the Geological Survey of Canada.

X Notes explunatorv of a mai) and section illustrating the Geological Structure of the country bordering on the Miiiouri River, &c.
by F. V. Hayden, M.D.

Aa 2

188

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

are overlaid by No. 1 of the Nebraska gection of the CretaccouB scries in lat. 4rj"i Ion. 96°. Cretacooua
and Tertiary formations then oorupy the vallev of the Missouri as far aw Fort Denton, lat 4'1'H°,
Jong. 1 10°) and oxtcnd into Uritish Ainvrica, as sliown on the map which accompanies this report . Hence
it appears that 10 degrees of latitude ooiith of the Hiding Mountain, the Cretaceous series repose on the
Carboniferous without the intervention of Permian, Triossic, or Jurassic roitks.

In Kansas territory, on the Kansas and Smoky Hill Uivertt, an elaborate section Iiuh been made by
Messrs. F. B. Meek and F. V. Hayden,* commencinff' with the Cretat^ous sundstoiieH on the summit of
the Smoky Hills, lat. 3H= 3i>' N., long. 5)8° >V., and descending through the various intermediate forma-
tions seen along the Smoky Hill and Kansas Rivers to the mouth of tlie Dig Hluo Kivcr <m the Kansas.
This section, over l,()(io feet vertically, pastseN from the Oetaceous to the upper coal measures, )>nd
includes rocks of Permian n^e. Messrs. Meek and Hayden remark, in relation to this section, " It will
" be observed wc have in this general stction, without attempting to draw lines between the systems or
" great nrimary divisions, presented iu regular succession the various IhMh with the fossils found in each,
" from tiie Cretncct us sunustiiiu- on the summits of the Smoky Hills, down through several hundred feet
" of intermediate doubtful strata, so a.^ to include the l>eds containing Permian types of fossils, and a con-
" siderable thickness of rocks, iu which we find great numbers of upper coal measures forms. We have
" preferred to give the section in this form, liecause, in the first place, the uppj-r coal measures of this
" region pa.s8 by such imperccptil>le gradations into the Permian alutve, that it is very dilKcult I > itcter-
" mine, with our present iuforniatinii, ut what particular horizon we should draw the line between them,
" while on the other hand il is e(|iiully ditlicult to detiiie the limits iH'tween the Pennian and beds almve,
" in which we ftmnd no fossils."t

Jurassic or Trinssic forinatiinis may occur above the Permian in the section just referred to. Messrs.
Meek and Hayden stJite that " between No. 5 (of the section) and the I'retaceous alMive, tlien> is still a
" rather extensive series of licds in which we fouiul no organic remains ; these may lie Jurassic or
'* Triiissic, or both, though, as we have elsewhere suggested, we rather incline to the opinion that they
" may prove to lH>long to tlie fornier."{

Formation No. 1 of the N'eliraska series of the Cretaceous rocks has not yet Iwen recogniiied in
Rupert's Land. This formation reposes on Jurassic rocks iu Nebraska territory at the Rlack Hills.§
It rests, as before >tatcd, upon the liinestcmcs of the coal ineasm-es on the Niissuuri, near the 42nd
parallel.

" 'llierc is at the base of the Cretaceous system, at distantly separattnl localities in Nebraska, Kansas,
'.rkaiisas, 'I'exas, New Mexico, Alabama, and New Jersey, if not indeed everywhere in North America
where that system is well developed, (at any rate cast of the Rocky .Mountains,) a series of various
coloured clays and sandstones, and beds of sand, often of great thickness, in which organic remains,
excepting leaves of a|>parently dicotyledonous plants, fossil wood, and obscure casts of shells, are very
rarely- found, but which everywhere preserves a i.niformity of lithological and other characters, pointing
unmistnkeably to a similarity of physical conditions during their deposition, over immense areas.

" Although the weight of evidence thus far fovoiirs the conclusion that this I^ower series is nf the
age of the Lower Green Sand, or Neoconiien, of the old world, we yet want I'luitirc evidence that portions
of it may not be older than any piirt of the Cretaceous system." ||

Judging, therefore, solely from the relation which the Cretaceous series bear to formations l>eneuth
them in tiieir development tbroiigh Rupert's Land, Nebraska, and Kansas, we might exjiect to find on
the Riding Mountain in the vertical section (4iHl feet), concealed by drift, beneath formation No. 4 (see
succeeding chapter), cither formation No. 1, ii, and 3 of tlie Nebraska section, or memlK>rs of the Jurassic
and Permian, as well as the ( 'nrboniferous series.

The prosjiect of any member of the true coal measures being found on the flanks of the Riding,
Duck, Porcupine, or Pas Mountains, becomes, in consequence of the ascertained existence of other series
lieneatlitbe Cretaceous in the same geological basin, rather unfavourable, but is certainly fur from being
without hope.

It is very jfratifyiiig to know that on the western side of tlic great basin between the Laurentides and
the Rocky Mountains, within the limit of the Saskatcbcw.oi A'alley, the CarlHiniferous series are repre-
sented. Sir Roderick Murcbison, iu his address at the anni\ crsary meeting of the Royal Geographical
Society, in referring to the splendid results of the Palliser Kxpedition, says, " 'llius, in addition to the
" determination of latitude, longitude, and the altitude of the mountains, and two of their passes,
" Dr. Hector presents us with a sketcl of the physical and geological structure of the chain, with its axis
" of slaty sub-(Tystalline rocks, overlaid by limestones of I)ev(mian and (.'arboniferous age, and flanked
" on the eastern face by Carboniferous sandstone, representing, proliably, our own coal lields, the whole
" followed by those Cretac^eous and Tertiary deposits which constitute the subsoil of the vast and rich
" prairies watered by the North and South Saskatchewan, and their afHucnts."f

* Geoloirical Ktplurations in KniiMs lorrilory by V. II. Muck and F. V. lUjrdco, pulilished in tlie proceedings of Iho Academy of
Natural Si-iciiL-et at riiilatltlphla.

t Page 19, Geological Ciplorations in Kans.i'*.

X Page 'J I, iliul-

§ On the loner Creuceom lieda of Kaiiuj and Nebraska, by F. B. Meek and V. W. Hayden.— Proceedings Acad. Nat. Sci.
Phil., Dec. I85H, — published in Am. Jour. Sci., page 'J19, 1859.

II Remarks on the Tertiary and Cretaceous fiirinulions of Nebraska, &c., &c., by F, B. Meek and F. V. Hayden, M.D.

^ Page 318, Proceedings of the Itoyal Geological Society, Vol. III., No. 4.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 189

taceoiu

Hence
>n th«

CHAinEK XVIII.

Tiir. rni-.i'Ac Koi.it NKiiiK.H, — riiK TKirrrAnr .skiiik.h.

Greil Extent of the Cri'tacenua Svrios in Itiiport'i* Laiiit — Crrtaccnus Seiiei in the Uiiileil Slates— Vertical
Section in Ncbrnilia Tcrrilory — Formnliun No. 1 — l''nrmntii>n No. 2 — ProbDble Oistribiitinn on the North

lirancli of the Hnnknlciicwen — Furniiitinn Nn, M — I'lirmatimi No. i — nittrilintion nn the I.iltlu .Soniiit

The Atninniixnnf — The Qu'Aiipelle— I'oriniition No. ."i— IJiilrihution on the QirAppi-lle— The South
Hrancli of the Satkalchewnn — The Tertiary Seric* — Sand Dtinen prnhuhly iltrivi'd frnni Tertiary Uuclts—
Importance of— Lignite— Distrihutinn in .\meriea — Diitrihulion and importance itlin Kurope.

'I'llK. CnKTACKOir.S SkHIKh.

\\y far the grontrr portion of the country pxjilornd in 18;>x is iniilcrUid iiy the difTerent formatiuns of
the CretaeeouH HrricH. Thtiy were seen in piwition on the Little .SouriH in longitude liiii° So' W., and
on the .'^outh Hranrh in longitude I'Jii" 35'. Hetwccii these widely neparuied point* they were
noticed in many jdacvit on the Amtiiniiboinp, the Qu'Anpelle, and their affluents. This inipmtant Hories,
as it oceunt in Nebiaiika, h».-i been carefully 8tudic(l and admirably de»cribcd by McN^irn. Meek and
Haydcn. In the notes explanatory of a Map and .S'ctiun illustrating the geological .structure of the
country Itordering on tlic Slissouri River, Dr. Ilayden ha« dencrlbed the r(K'ks of Nebraska territory*

* The finit reltahle ttccounl« wu haw uf the gcnvral phyntcal churactcm i>r the Upper Miiwouri cuiiiitry h vrv given lu ihe wurld in
the re|H)rt uf Ia>wU ami (.'lark't eiiH'dilion to \hv ri>liimtHit lii IS(H-J^i. 'ntcfxplitrf-tiun of tlicii> Kvittleinvn, in adtlitiiin to hrin){ini(
out a Urge amuiint of informaliuii uf a iliirt.'rt.'iit iliaructcr, i-ttaltliithcil tht' fui't uf lhi> ui'currviK'i' uf Crftiiceuui rucks at the Ureut llciid
uflhv MiMOuri Mou Fort Pierre* anil of llie ixUtencu of uhat wan auppowil tu Ih> '* Moiic coal "( Lignite) in ihe Mandan country.
Variouf ImhIk of clay, und, tanditone, ftv. were nivnliunutl in their repurl, but withuut iiny ftu;{geition9 respecting their age.

In Ifl53 tlie IVince of Wieil and party al%u a<>i'cnded the Mi^ituuri lu itn Miurce^; and the reiult uf his cxplurtliuns, emhodying u
great amount of highly intcreftting iniurinatinn ref|>ei'ting the gi-u^rnphy, nottiral hintury, i\n\ of the country explored, have been pub-
li»lieil in the form uf n large (piirtu volume, accornpiinicil by u iii:ignincent folio atla^ of platen, illustrating the ftceneiy uf the country,
and the manm-ni and cuMonuof it« nali\e trilH.% imtMyle of art rnrely equalled on tlii< side uf the Atluntie. Ileiprriiri}{ the gfulogy
of the country, huwever. the I'riiHe's expedition lulded link- of impurtance beyond tiiv iVitCincry of MiMi%aurnM Mi4M)urh'/iiif, to the
retultt uf lA!¥/i» an., (.'Iark'« Expedition.'

Mr. Nicolter, the well-knuwn geographer, visited thit country in 1K;>'>, ascending the Mi»«mri to Fort Ticrrc, and making on hii«
wny up a fine rullcction of CreincrtMm fusHili at the Oreat nend.'* Allhuugli pairing rapidly thnmgh the cuuntry. he funned a
toleralHy correct idea of its geulogy, and gnvf In hi<( n'purl a vertical kection of the (Tetacefmit rock wvn Iwlow Kurt Pierre, Khich it
eorrecl, eicepting that he Hecnii to have had nu knowledge uf Nu, 'J, and, at uc think, without Nutticicnt reanun, reprvsenltd twu of hl^
tubdivitlont of No. :l at diiliuit formalion^ ; Nu. I he appiun to have referred to the ('arliuniferons HyMeni. As he did not go alrove
Fort rierre, he prnhably <uiw nothing of Nu. 5, though some uf itk ehiirnctetistio foisiN were prcMfnled to him hy gentlemen connected
with the Fur Cumpany.

In 1H-I:{ Mr. Edward Harris who accompanied the celebrated Ornithologist Audiibon to the mouth uf Yellu\v%tone River, brought
back ipccinnent from various l<M'»litiea at mg the IMitsituri Uiver, Mnne of which vvrificd the K'atenientt of former explorer<t, while utiiert
gave evidence uf the ciiatence 4)f » fresh-wiitcr funnatiun neiir Fort Union.

At various timet after thin <i|}rciinen« of mammalian remains were brought in by gentlemen ctiimccted with the Americ.in Fur Com-
pany indicating Ihe existence of an interesting Tertiary dept>sit on While Uivir ; the first account of which wiLspublisheil by Dr. II. A.
PnmttOf St. I.<nuis, in the American Junrn;il of Science, 18-17.

In 1H<I7 Dr. John Evans, one uf Dr. Owen's iissistunlii in the geolugiciil survey of the Thippewoy Land District, was sent by that
gentleman on an expedition to tite Mauvnises Terrcs of White Uiver, and brought back n fine collection of mnT^mulian and cheloniau
remains, which were invettigaled liy I'rof. Liidy, of Fliiladelpliiii. He altu collected at ihe Great Ilend, Sage Creek, and Fox
Hills nuiny interesting Cretaceous fossils, which were investigated by Dr. D. D. Owen, and published in lis hmil report in 185:^.
Dr. Evans obscrrationt, enibracitig n section of the Itail Landw, together with a dcKriplion of their physical features, wen* aUo
publithe<l in this report.

In Ihe following year Mr. Tliaddeus .\. CulberUon visited the Ipja-r !Missoiiri country i>.'f*er the auspices of the Sinilhsonian
Institution, during which exiHHlitton he collected son.c inlcreiting vertebrate remains fVoi u- White Uiver furnintions. lie also
iweended the Miiaouri on the Fur Com|Miny's bout to a point bIhivu Fort Union, noting tli. ^-i./ '.'I'-r of ihe fare of the country, and
the occumnce of lignile beds at various localities.

In the spring of 18.i:) Dr. Evant again visited this country incidentally, while un hit way tu Jregon territory, In Ihe geological
hiirvey of which he was engaged, under the patronage of the general government. During thisex|)edition lie made another extensive
collection of vertebrate remains, and tome fresh-water ntolluMU at the Uud Lands of White Uiver, as well as some interesting Crela-
ceoui foanilt from Sage i'reek. The mammalian remains of this expetlition were ttudietl by I'ruf. I.iidy, and the other tovsiU by
Dr. Kvant and Dr. Shumard, and publiidicd in Ihe IVocecdingt uf the .^cud. Nat Sc. at Philadelphia, and the Acad. Sciencet of
St. Louit.

At the tame time (1HJ3) Ihe writert of this paper were etnployed by Prof. Jat. Hall, uf Albany, N. Y., to vitit the Dad Lands
of White Uiver, for Ihe purpose of making a collection of the Tertiary and Crelaceout futsils of that region. Iliit expedition brought
back an extentive ami interetting colloction of vertebrate remains from the Bad Lands, and of Creiavcous fostilt from Sage Creek,
as well as from Oreat Bend and other localities along the AliHsouri below Fort Pierre. Hie first weru invettigaled by Prof. Leidy, and
published in the Proceeding* of the Acad. Nat Sc. ut l*hiladclphia; and Ihe latter by Prof. Hall, and one of the writers,* and
publithed in the Transactiont Acad. Artiand Science >, Boston.

In this Utter paper a brief vertical section of Itw rocks teen during Ihe expedition, and a complete list of all the mollun^a then known
IVom llie Cretaceout and Tertiary rockt of that country, were given, 'llie fact that the fotsilt character ixing (he Cretaceous formations
of Tetai and New Mexico Iwlong to different typft from ilune occurring in the oorth-wetl, wan also in this paper made known for tlie
first time, in the following wordt : — ** Among all the collection! made in 1 exat by Dr. Hiemer and others, and of all those brought
" by Ihe Boundary Survey Expedition, and other surveying and exploring parties, which we have teen, there is but a tingle
** species which we regard u doubinjlly identical with one from Nebrmska. This U InocrramuM Barahini, Morton (I. Critpii,
" Manlell. )(?)'*

A summary of Uie leading rctults of this expedition, throwing light upon the general geology of the country, its soil, scenery, &c.,
was likewise given to the public by Prof. Hall, in an interesting paper rerd before the American Aiaociation for the advancement
of Science, al the Providence meeting.

Subsequent to all these exiteditiont, one of the writert* again vltited Nebratka, and spent two years in traversing various portions of
that country ; part uf which time he was aided by Col. A. J, Vaughan, Indian agent, and aftcrwardt by Mr. Alexander Cnlbertson

* Tlie Prince lost nearly all hit geolugicml specimens by tht burning of the Fur Company's steamboat.

* Thesv, together with othert given to bim wX Fort Pitrrcr were inveatij^ated by Dr. Morton^ and publithed in the Jour. Acad. Nat.
3c. Philada., Vol. VIIIh p. SOT.

* Mr. Meek.

* Dr. Hayden.

Aa 3

IBQ

RKPORTS OF THE ASSIXNIBOINE AND

whore the f'rotnrcoiiH ^vr'wK \n lir^t (linrl()|io«l, ami rts this tliviHioii, MtyUMl tho Ni-:niiAHK.v Skction,
fnr.iH tlu» staitdiinl to whicli tlio ( 'ri'tat'ooiH vovkn itf the north-wost are roCenod, iho following notice of
tho HfrioH Im ubliroviatiMt I'roin tlioir oxplanutory notes and reiiiarkH.*

Tlio luMlory on tho prmiMlinf? i>am», of tl»o diHmvuries in Nol»ruMka territory is rontained in the
uitriidurtion to MennrH. Meek and llaydenV ** Ueniarkn on the Tertiary and Oetaceous fornmtionH of
" NeluaHka, niul the parallelism of the latter with those of other portions! of the United States ami
*' territorie»/'

Siihjoinod \a the vertical section of the ideological formations of Nebraska territorvt with thuir
extension into Rupert's l.ami, us far aH determmod: —

Vkutmai. Si:rrioN of ilir liKoUKtiCAL FoiiMATioNs (if Nkhiu>ka TKiittiroar, hm far m (leuriiiiuci), wilb

their KxteuHiou into Kupcrt't Laud.

Si iiiiivi%ia>H,

TKUTIAHY SV*TKM.

Mint Kxr.
Li^til roliniroil iniliiratt'd thiv*. with lU'Cii^Innnl
httU uf MiiiUtont*. roiiKloinrrAir, nml whiiuh
liiiifbtoiK'. Grvat riumlH>ri of mantmnlitin
mul chtloniaH ri-niHini, with n few frc«h-uati'r
■nd tiiiul slulU.— (IU<) I.And« nf White
River.) ItctU of rliiy, kani), !MiiuUla(u>, aiuI
lignite, roDtaiitiiig j^f^m niimbrn nf frvHti'
water ■ml Utul mnlluM*it, wiih a few nvuiiu' or
ettuary shi-lls ; ri'iiiuins nf planln, Stmriant^
TVioByx, &f.— (Unat I.ijfiiitt* Hasiii.) S.(iu),
iuind«ton'', riayi, and vory impurt* IrgnitF.
with remains uf rri'sh-Matir, land, and a ft-w
fstuar) tihi'IU, Sat.rian$^ fiklwa, Trian^x^ &l',
—(Bad Landt of Judith.)

Iax-ai iriM.

Kilinialvd
ThkkiMfiti. I

l.uiALiriKo IS UrrrHr'^ Land.

yfuHVtUMfn Trrr-i of Whiti'
HUtr. Grvat vili-nl uf
country on both tidva uf
the Miimniri l)ftwe«ii
Meart and Milk Hivrr«i
on the Yellow flione.
lUd Land at the mouth
of Judith Hivvr, &i'.

Almiit

!>00 ?
fwt.

Grand CAtvau d« Mlunurt.

tUETACKOUS KYSTKM.
No. J.
Grey and ytllowish arenaecuus clays and land-
btuneo, MJiiiL-tiines wcathiTiiij< to pink culimr;
containing lifUmnitrUti liuUiom, StitifUna ,
Ihhaffi^ Amnumttet placenta^ A. UthtttuM, I
Si-aphitff ('oHraJif Baculitrt ovatug, and great I
numbeni uf other iiiariae moUiiwa* 1

No. 4.

Illuikh and dark grey plattic days, containing

yautihii Dtkatfi, .imnnmitet jihcenta, litxn-

tite% oratua, and H. comprftMut, will) niimerniit

ullier marine niolluu'a, remains of Momwunu.

Murvau trading post, and
iimler the 'tVriiary uf
Sage and Bear Creeks,

Fui Hills.

irnto
1 50 feet.

G real area aliout Fort
ritrre and along the
MikMuri below there.
Under No. 5, at Hsga
and Bear Creeks, Great
llend at* the MibMiuri.
Near Milk and Muscle
Shell Kivers.

'SM> fcft

South Bnuieh of the flukatchewao— iSm-

/lAi/ri ihMruiiu A'uh/iVuj iMkaifi^ AnmU
Imymr/ormit, AticiUa Xtbnucama.

Lillle Souru Hiver— conlaii.ing Anomia
FbmuHgi, Jmvrra$HUM Canatknau^ Ltd*
Hindi,Two Oeeks, Assinniboiitv Itiver,
Satirtt MigiuUa^ AtfUana conriNMU ;
AmmonUtM—SouiU Branch of the Sas-
katchewao — /v<iri A>imsi, JtHmoruItt
jihirmta, SrufJtitc§ »odo»ii§.

and olhi-r (lentlcnu'n of (hi- Ameiicim Kur Company. During thin eipeditioti la- eiplond the Miwiuri lo tlie ficinity of Fort Itentoa
and the Yellowstone to fiie moutli of Iti^r Horn Itivcr. AUo eontidetahle porti>)ti» uf the Bad Lands of White liiver, and other dis-
tricts n> t iiinnetliatfly bordering on the Misnourt. The vcrtelirnte remsint collected by him, as n ay be seen by reference lo the various
papers by I'rof. Lt-idy in the Proceeding! of the Academy, embrace a larger number of species tlian all those pretioukly known
from that country, many of which belong to new and remarkable genem. Large collections of mollusca were alsu obtained from th«
Cretact'ous and 'JVrtiury formations, and have since been publitihed by us, together with remarks on the general geology of the country,
in a series uf papers in the Proceedings of the Academy Nat Sc. i'htia,, Vol, viii.

Again, in t ^J's the smnv one of the wriiirs returned to tlnit country itt coniunion with u gtivernnierit ex|H-ditiiiii under the direction
of Lieut. G. K. Warren. Tlie new Cretuceous and Tertiary' invertebratv remains, together witii tlie new ract<i in rcgurd lo the geology
of the country, collected by this eipedition, form the basis oi* this paper.

Up to ttie publicatiun of uur first paper, aliouC 56 new Kpecien of Cretaceous and Tertiary mollusca had been publislietl front
Nebraska, by Drs. Morton, Owen, Evans, and Shumard, and by Prof. Hall, and one of the wiiters. Since lluit iime« Iti
luldilioniil new sjucie^ have l>een pulili«hed by I>rs. Kvana and Sliumard, making in all 71J species hitlierto published by utherm
from that i.iutitry. Our own inveHt(ga(ion<t (including (hose here described) have made known IJiO new speciest and two new genera,
many of the former of which also belong to ty)>es not hitherto recognised in tliis country. Of these 150 species, 54 (if we include the
Juditli River, fresh>water and ekluary sjH'cies) belong to the Tertiary system, and 06 lo the Cretaceous. Fihy of tlie Tertiary specie^
belong tu fresh* water and land type^, and four to genera inhabiting salt and brackish waters ; being about four.fifUis of all tlw land and
fre^ih-water Tertiary species hitherto made known from American fonnatiuns. The geological position, and vertical range of all uur
new species, and several of those published by othera fVom the north-west, as well as a number of the well-knuwn and widely distributed
forms, such an Untfihitft Cnnmdi, Ammonite$ lottatua, A. plaetnta, SautUuB Dtkayit JitoeeramuB prublemuticuMt Moaaimirut itfusoNrwisM,'
&c.t have been dL-terniini-d with cunsiderabli- ueeurncy, so that we have now the means of tracing out tne parallelism between tliew
depotits and their eiiuivalents in other countries.

* Notes eiplanatory of a Map and Section illustmting the geological structure of the country on the Missouri River from themouUi
of the Platte lliver to Fort Benton, in lut. 47- :t(>' N., loii^'. 1 lU^ 'MY W.. by F. V. Hayden, M.U., Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phil.,
Mby 1657.

> In n Kectiuit of the Xdirasku formations accompanying the last paper communicated by us to tlw Academy, we gave aa the position
in which the remains of ^fnmlnMruM occur in the north-west, the upper part of No, 5, This wms in consequence of erroneous informa-
tion in re^-ird to the locality from which llr- Kpeciment given to tlie Prince uf Neu Wied were obtained, 'I'lic locality (at the Great
Bend of Missouri) bar. since been visited by one of us, and many specimens obtained ; they occupy a horiion about the middle of No, 4
of the section.

SASKATrr'EWAN EXl'LDUINO EXPEDITION.

SviUlTlltUM.

cnETACEOrS SYSTEM-fOMf.

No. rt.

SO F*tT. — Dark, wry fhia uncluoui clay, con-
toininf much carbonuciNHit iiMllf r, with vtin«
ud wamt nf wlvnllv, lulphurut of Iron, Ash,
and aealMCUwalX

too FiBT. — I^ad-grty calcartuu* marl,
wwihvring abovir to « vtllowUh tint. HcnIcm
and ottwr rvmalnn uf fl»h«* — Oitrni cimgtuta
— paailnn dnwnwardi Into

SO Fvrr. — I'iffhl grty or ytllowUli limmlonr,
containing grmt numbcM of ImtfriimMt pro-
hitmattrus, lah k«I«i, and Ottrm coHf$§ta,

No. 9. j

Dark gray Uminatvd clay i tcalet ami oihur
ramAlni cf llidiv«, Miiall Ammonitn, IntHtrn- i
mui pnMtmnlittinf 'Vrr/iN/(j,«mRU oyiter-llka
O. coHgntat Stv.

No. I.

Yellowish and rrddifth frUMe landvlntu*, wlih
allrrnatiiin^ of durk iiml whitMi oUm. Hvhiim
and bvdt of impure lignite, fuMil wood, ini>
|ittfltion« of dit-iiiyli'tloiKiu* IfawN, Snifm,
f^vtuwHlHtt Cjfpnna^ Acr. Tint brd i<i nut
potitirvly known to htlong to Iho CrvtAvrou*
•ytttm.

rAKIIONFFEnOirs SYSTKM.

Yellow llmt'«lnnr, cnnlainin^f FntuVmn rtfUu'
ihira, Trrfhratufa tnhttliln, Spiri/rr Mruat-
harhrnnu* AU»ri»Hta rrifu/itrii, and other foMils
uf !lic coal tiiva»ure%.

LciVALITIM.

Kkli mated
I'hlfkneaa.

UliifTt along th« Miveourl
balow lb* (ffvat Band.
Kitande lu Dig Mioui
IliviT, and oi-i'uri along
the latter itrvam.

MOriol.

Ni>w

Jrriey nitd

Alabumn,

LocAimn iir Ili;viHn' Land.

North Dramih of tht Saikalchtvan at thk>
Coal Falla. (?) ftharka' tatth— Seale«
uf Fiflli — Inoovramui.*

Along the Miiaourl IllufTk,
fruin 10 miln abuvt'
Jaiiii>« Uivt-r to Dig
Hioui Kiver,

Ni'iir thi» month of FHn
Smiux Itivcr.iiinl lii'tMii-n
there and Council lltuflV
Near JudiUi Hiver. (?)

l-'oniis ithnaU in thp Mi<i-
Muri Itiver at De Solo;
1.1 to ^O fret eipoM-Hl at
Council llluHii, at low
ilagv* uf the river.

i>() feet
waiitiug in,

Aiftinnilraina— Scale* of 6ali.t
North llrdMih uf the Moakatuliewan at tha
Coal Fallk. (?)

00 to 10() ' Nut rccogni)!f<i in iirt-.i explored
fvvi or
more.

Unknown.

Nut recognixk-d in area explored.

FormiitiiM Xi>. 1 nf Vertical .S'cc/inw.

'I'hp foUowinft rxct'llent ilcscriptioiiH of tliv I'oriniitioim constitutiiif; tlii> Nebraska Scctiun arc from
the clear and coiiciitp " Notes F.xpluiiatory of a Map, &('.," Iiy I''. I). Meok and F. \'. Haydcn, M.D.
They will wrte as an iulmiralilc ffuidt" for tht" !<tiidy of the devoldpint'iit of the Cretacooun series in the
part of Uu|H>rt'H Land referred to in this Report.

" In the onler of superposition, Formation No. 1 rests directly Ufion the true limestones of the eual
measures. Its first e\|)osure seen alon|{ the Miss«)nri is at Wood's lilull's, ri^ht hank, aliuut 80 miles
above the mouth of the Platte, and it dip'i heneath the water level of tlie Missouri a few miles below
the mouth of the Vermillion. Its general eharacter is a coiii-se-jfrained frialili! sandstone, very forru-
ffinous, of a yellow or reddish-yellow colour, with thin ImxIs of impure li;;uite and various coloured clays.
It contains very few fossils, mostly of the jjenera Salfii, Ci/iniiiii, and I'vclmciiliin, also fossil wood, and
numerous impressions of dicotyledonous leaves, similiu: to the common willow. Its entire thickness is
eBtimate<l at 90 to 100 feet, hut it may he more."

'ITiis formation has not vet l)cen recofjnized in Rupert's Land. In Nebraska it rcpo.-ics upon the
upper members of the CarfMtniferous M-ries near tlie uiouth of the I'lattc (lat. 41° -lo), and it overlies
Jurassir rorksat the Black IlilU.^

Forinatimt No, ii of iWlicnl Sectiim.

" This formation is first revealed in thin outliers l>elow the n\outli of Hig Sioux River, and on that
stream six miles above its mouth it caps the Ulutfs, anparentlv mingling to some extent with tho
succeeding bed, and containing at this locality large numbers of fiwceramiin itrubleiiiaticus ami fragments
of fishes. Near the mouth of Iowa Creek and above it shows itself wortliy of a separate position in
the scries. It is composed of a dark leaden gray laminated ))lastic clay, containing few fossils, but
great quantities of the sulphate of lime in crystals, assuming a variety of l)eautiful forms. Its gicatest
thickness is seen five miles below the mouth of James River. At Dorion's Hills it is seen at low water
mark. Entire thickness estimated at 90 feet. Fossils, Ammonites, Lweeramua, Vi/lliirid, Serpiila, Oitrea,
and abundant fish remains."

'Fhis formation has licen recognized on the Assinniboine.

On the North Rranch of the Saskatchewan, a few miles above the Grand Forks, huge masses of u
dark coloured, almost black shale, with sharp, well preserved edges, jut out of the banks, and are
exposed whenever portions of the face of the clay cliffs fall into the river. 'I'heir appearance is such as
to justify the expectation that rock in position from which they originated is close at hand. Some

* Mr. Meek tliirkt the Kiwciiiicns may belong to cither No. 'i or No. 3.

I Bella NoK. il. .nd III. •• well an No*. IV. and V. may in loms loralitinmergs into one another Sec foot-note, page ISO, of the
Geology nnd I'alawntology, Mexican Douiidary Survey.

X Detcriptiona of the 8|>eeiea and Genera of FossiU collected by Dr. V. V. llayden in Nebraska territory, under the direction of
Lieut C, K. Warren, U.S. Topographical Engineer, with some Kemarks on the Tertiary and Cretaceous Kortnatlnnt of Nebrasca,
and the paralleliiin of the latter with those of oilier portiona of the United Statet and Territories, by F. li, M., nnd F. V. llayden, M.D,

Aa 4

193

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

1 m

\\\\\\

»ii«riinrnii which I prorurod iinil npiit tn Mr. Mpck contain, ncconling to th«» fffntloman, fith ictle*,
>>nark'N fwtli, niul Iiinrrrtimiii, which rondcm it nImoHt ccrtwin thnt the niH«iH>ii wore ilvtiu'liril from rockii
hpl(inginj{ to fo.-nmtinn 2 or 3 of the vortical xcction. I have therefore aKniKncd in the forevoinfr table,
the liKuhty Coul FiilU, North Hrnnch of the Sunkiitrhcwai), with a note of interrogation, aa the probable
outcrop of^ one or both of theiie divinionH of the Vertical Section.

Fiirmation Sn, It nf Vrrlii'iil Nniim.

" 'Flic Kcof^ruphicul diiitrihutiiin of this I'orination and itH influence on the ii<'enery render it one of the
most iutcrcKtniir on the MixHouri. It \* flnt neon iu thin outlierx near the mouth of llig Sioux lliver,
and U'conieii (|uite counpiciiou* on the xummitx of the IIIuITm |i) mile* hIk>vc the Iowa Creek. At
l)nrinnV IlilU it reachcH to the watcr'H cd^c, luid \* the prevniliuft formation fnim thence to the foot
of the (ircat Itcnd, where it pnxHCN liy n ycnllc dip liciieiuh the wiiter level of the MiMoiiri. At Dorion'a
IlilU iliere in a fine section of tills Ih'iI aUnit NO feet expoHeil above the water'* edife, containinu iti
niDNt abiindnnt niul cliaracterislic fossil, Ihtnti i-tnii/itfn, In ninny placex, aa op|MMlte the inoiitli of
Kuiininft Wntcr, it aosumcH the form of a loiiff sericn of precipitoim bliiff*, K'^i'iK a pleasinff variety to
the general monotony of the Hcencry. 'I'IiIh h one of the principal charactcrintic external featurei*
of tins formation.

" The upper portion of this rock in a vellowixh and xray ciilcaieoim marl, very iiott ami yielding, m)
that it Ih ciuily cut up into numerous raviiieit by the temporary streams and thua the bluft'n alon^ tliia
part of the Missiniri often present tlie appearance of a series of cimei*. 'Ilie lower Ntratum, howetcr,
i» more ciimpiu't and forms a nod liliiish uray limestone.

" Tliouifh so well developed and covering so wide an area, the middle and ui>|N>r |N)rtioiia, at leaat,
of this rock can never he made useful for buildiiif; purposcK. (,>uitc soft and frmltle in places, when
detached, it alisoriis moisture rapidly and cnimiiles in pieces, lieiiig a rich calcareous marl, it may lie
used at some future time as a fertilizer.

" The fossil* of this formation, tliouf;h l)elon)(iiiK to few s|ie<'iei«, as far aa in yet known, are niimeniii*
in individuals. A species of oyster (O. vomjfftn) is found in f(reat ipiantities throughout the ImhI, and in
lo<-alities liuMvi-amut iinililrmolicu* is aliuiidant. Fish remains, thou)(li coiisiMtiii); mostly of ecaleit and
"bscuie fraKUients, an< disseminated tlirougliout the deposit, several species of which have already Ikhmi
identified and descrilM-d liy Dr. I.cidy. Kniire thickness nf this ImmI alMiiit I'^O feet.

" Near Kirst Cedar Island a very sini^ular bed makes it^ appearance superimposed (m No. S, which
wo eliall consider as prolmlily forming a local upper memlier of that formation. It extends up tliu
Missouri Kiver to a point near the (ireat Mend, a distance of about w miles. I.ithologically it is a
ilull libuk, iiiii'tiious clay, destitute of any grit, and diM's not efl'erveiM'e with an acid. It contaniH Mmie
carbonaceous matter anil (jrcat i|uantilics of selenite in crystals."

This formation, a* stated above, |irolialily occurs on the >' i liranch of the Saskatchewan, at the
Coal Falls.

Formntiim So. 4 of Vrtliful Sfctiim,

" This formatiim is the most importiint one in the Cretaceous system of the north-west, not only in
regard to its thickness and its geographical distriiiiilioii, but also in its influence on the agricultural
capabilities of the countrv. It is only second in interest to the Niicceeding ImmI in the niimlM'r, lieaiity,
and varielv of Its organic remains. Commencing alMiiit 10 miles alKive the mouth of Jame* Itiver,
where it is seen only in thin outliers capping the distant hills or blutfii, it cinitiniies gradually
afsiiming a greater thickness as we ascend the Missouri until reaching the lii'cat Ileiid, where it
mimnpiih/es the whole region, giving to the country underlaid by it a most gUximy and sterile aii|MH>t.
At the (Ireat Hend it attains a thickness of i^H) feet^ and continues to occupy the country bordering on
the Missouri, to the mouth of (irnnil Itiver, where, in conBe(|ueiice of the dip of the strata, it passes
gradually beneath the level of the river.

" .M>er dipping beneath the water level between (irand and Cannon Hall Kivers, this fomiatiun
again rises to the surface about ,Sli miles Ih'Iow ihe mouth of Milk Hiver, (far up towards the soiireoa
of the Missouri,) by a reversed dip of the strata, from iHMieath the northern portion of the (ireat
Lignite Hasin, as will Ih> seen by reference to the section on the map. Near the iiiuuth of the
Mussel Shell Itiver it (H'cu])ics the whole countrv for a distance of aimut 81) miles, and thins out u|Hni
the tops of the hills near the mouth of the Judith Itiver.

" In summing up the extent of country underlaid by this great formation, we finil that south of the
Lignite Hasin It occupies an area of iJiKi miles in lenj{th and lull In breadth, or VU,Oi Ml square miles.
North of the (ireat Lignite Hasin, commencing at its first appearance near Milk Itivor, we find it
covering an area of iioo miles in length and (>o in breadth, or alMiiit I'Auoit square miles. I have l>ccn
thus particular in estimating its approximate limits and extent of surface on account of its influence on
the future destiny of that region. Wherever this <lepo$it prevails it renders the country more
completely sterile than any other geological formation I have seen in the north-west. We sec from the
above estimate that it renders barren over 30,000 square miles of the valley of the Missouri.

" The fossils of this formation are too numeroiiH to mention in detail. The upper and lower
members appear to be exceedingly fossilifemus, while the intervening puitions of cunsiiferablc thickness
contain only a few im|)erfect specimens tA' O/i/iulo/Hida and the liones ot Motumunii Miuuurimsit, The
entire thickness of this formutlon may be estimated at about 3.31) feet"

The t'ormation Is probably more extensively developed in Iliipcrt'a Land than any other nicmlier of
the Cretaceous series.

The most easterly exposure, where it holds characteristic fossils, is on the Little Souris. Fifteen
miU 'um the mouth oi that river it consists of a very fissile, dark-blue argillaceous shale, holding
numerous concretions containing a large per-centage of iron. .Some very obscure fossils were found in
it, with fragments of InncframiLi (.'anadeiwh.* The shale weathers ash-white ; and the exposure on the
Little Souris is 70 feet thick in horizontal layers.

col
fel

* Sn Chapter XIX., by .Mr. F. B. Mnb.

SASKATCHEWAN KXFLORING EXPKDITION.

193

"•h waloii,
from rockK
ning uhlp,
<^ (irnbablp

one of thi<
)iix Kivfr,
Wk. At

' till' r<M>t

it Dorion'ii
•iiiinu it*

■llOUtll ()('

v«riofy Ut
' fi'iifiircH

I'liliiiff, K<>
ilonfr tluH
liowiM ur,

»» l.-ant,
»'lieii
may \mi

\Vlii'ri> tlip river linH cxcnvntiMl ii pintniiK*' iIhoiikIi iIio I(Iiii> IlilU iif lliu Soiirin, the rnck l'ri'i|iii'ntly
nt'i'iirH ill clitl'M, tlio ili|i iH-iii^ :l miiiiiIi, Ki'MKIiiciiIx anil in'rlcct loriiiH, liiit vimv fra)(il('i of Imnvnimiu
CiiHiiilriitiii, (Mi'fk,) nro very coiiiiiiiiii. Tliu I'tTriiuiiioiiH (Mtiiirutioiia .ii-i> liinpuHril in rugulur iayi'rrt, and
I'linMtituti* II niarkiMl fcutiiru of tli<< rockii of thin vitllvy.

A fow niili'H wi>iit of lliK Itliio IIiIIh the ilip of n very roinarkulili' rxpoNiirr of Mhali*, with Imiiili of
fi'riii|{inoiirt ('(iiirrotioiin, facing tli<< koiiIIi, nviim Iovi'IIi'iI with the iitiniul rai'i>, and found to hit porlVctly
liiii'i/.ontai. At llii> hasr of tiif fX|M)Miiri', and mi a U'vol with thi< wati-r'H i'd){i', a hiyi'r occnrH I'nII of
Ki|{aiilir /hiii'i'/vimihi, prohuhly till' .tanio i<|H>rl(>H us tliiwu hi'fiiri! inciitioiii'd. Oni' nprcinii'ii ini'aiurrU
r<J inriii;< in dianii'tor, it wait M'ry fru>(ilp;'liiit llu> |ii'i'ullar (iri'^nialic ftnirtiirc of tin* slii'll wa.i
miiurkahly wrll pri'»rrvi'il, (In atli>ni|itiiiK to raiM> it, it si'|iai'ati'il into lliounaiidM of iniiinl(> pri^niH,

A '•(■ariTi for fiHitihi licro wan iiioru Niuroasfnl, and ruNultud in tlio discovi'ty of Hovvrul iiuw spi't'ioK,
whii'h arc iiamml and di'<i('rit)i-d in ChapttT Xl\., hy Mr. Muck. Anioiii( tln> (omU vivto Aiviiiiia
Urmiiiiji, (Mi'ok,) N. up.; Iniu-rrumiit CiiiuiilvH.ii», (Mj-ck,) N. Hp. ; l.nlti /fiiidi, (Mouk,) N. Hp.

On tlii> Two Cri'ekH, an alNiii'iit of ihi* AHiiinnilHiiiii', tho Haini< formation uxiiitH. Anions thu fouil
volh'i'tcd ihiTC wcri' .S'liltfu nliliiiiinlii, Arrltnmi nmrinwi, Ammonilr* (Hp. iiiidt)i »Vf. &c.

On tho C/n'Appt'lli' Kivi'r thin rorlv ii* aKitiii ti'i'ii holow tlio \V\a Ciit-Arni C'ri-uk, and aUo iii-ar tlio
.Si'lMHorx i'riM-k. AltlioiiKli no iirfjaiuc' foriii!! won* prornri'd, yet tlio litholn^rical nxiioi't of tliu rock '\»
tho munp uh on tho I.ittio SoiiriM. I'lio Hamo roniark applici to tho ontrro|i on tho Itidiiig Monntain.

An oxpomro, a low niilos liolow tho mouth of tho " llivor that 'I'nrnn," on tho Sontli lirunoh of tho
Saiikatchowaii, contaiiiH at itH hiiHe a hard ( 'aloarooiiM ManilHtoiio, coiiLiiniiiK Ariciilii liiii/iiu/nniiit,
liolow it in a Hoft Kandstono doHliliilo of I'oysilH, 'I'lnH Hoction id domrilN'd on pUKo 71. It in not
iinprnliahlo that tho Htratn aliovo tho hocoiiiI coiurotionary layor \>n>in into Formution .'> of thv Nuhruiiku
Hoctioii, and roprcHont tho nppor ( 'rotacooiiM in tliix rof^ioii.

Foriiiiitiiiii .\'i>, 5 of \'irtit'iil Sirtiun,

" This vory intcroMiiiK bod, though difl'oriiiK litholoKii'aily from tho proooding ono, ountahiH many of
tho Hiimo HpooioH of fiiHsili*. It is worthy, howevor, of a diHlinct postilion in thu xorioH, not only from itH
oxtont, thicknoiis and difl'oronco of oonipoaition, lint aluo from tho niuro favonralilo inlliionoo that it
oxortii upon tho coniitry nndorlaid hy it. In aHconding tho Mi»Houri Kivor it lirHt inakoM itH appouruni'o
noar tho month of (iraiid Kivor, uliout l'><i iiiilon ahovu Tort I'iorro. Noar /Inttc nut (Irh it bi'comoH
ipiito conHpii'iioiiM, aci|niriii][; a thicknoHK of H) or imi foot, and ooiiiainiiiK f;i°t'at uuaiitit ion of organic
rotiiaiiiH, lloro it forum an oxtonyion of wliat in oallod I'ox Itid^o, a Hrrios of liiKJi hilU having u
north-woHt and xoiitli-woHt coiirHo, irosKing tho Missunri Uivor into Miiniosotu ut .In point. ItH
iiorth-oaHtom liiiiitH I hnvo not OHcortainod. In ilH Honth-wi^torn uxton-'ion it contiiuioH for n oonnidur-
ulilo (liHtuni'o nearly imrullol with tho MinHouri, croHsoH tho Moroan Uivor aiiont 3o iiiiloH aliuve itH
month, tlioii forms a high dividing rlilgo liotwoon tho Moroan and Slioyoniio ItivoiH, ut whicli locality
it first took its nonio. ('(intiniiing ihoiico its sonth-westotly oonrso, it crosses tliu Sheyenne, and in Been
again in itH full thii'knes<. at tho hoadn of Opening Crook uiiil Totoii Kivor, forming a high ridgo from
wjiieh triluitarioH of the Shoyonno and 'rotnii take their rise. The little Htroiniis Howiiig into thu
Shoyonne have a niirth-wostorlv oonrso, while those eiii|itying into the Teton take a Honth-euKterly
direction. Wo thus find that this lied iinderlioH an area of about tjoil milen in length and TiU mileg in
breadth, or ahoiit Iii.ihio yipijiro miles.

" The general i liai.ictor of roniialion No. .0 is a yellow arenacoima and arKilluceoiis grit, contuiiiing
much I'crniginons matter, and in localities a pl'ol'u^ion of iiioIIiihcoiis fossils. It forniH a nuieh more
fertile soil, more hearty and Inxnriant vogetutiun, HiistaiiiH a tiiior growth of timber than Formation No,
4, and alioiinds in springs of goinl water.

" Like No. 4, this bed yields a great alninilani'o ot (|ii(li' perfect and well-preserved organie remains.
Many of tlio species approximate so closely to Tertiary foriii«, that did we not find them tverywhoro
associated with .Viiimonitos, Seu]ibitoti, and other genera wlii<'li are not knoAii to have existed later than
the Cretaccoiis epoch, we should ut once proiiounco the foiiiiation in which they occur Tertiary. Tho
whole thickness of this U-d is estimated at UM» to l.'iO feet."

The first exposure of this formation is pidbalily found on the Kvehrow ilill Htream, where it joins
tho Ijln'Appelle N'alloy. A ferruginous clay in yellow and red layers reposes on a hard greonish
coloured Haiidslnno, seamed with veins of Holenito, and containing huge eoncrelioiis. No fossils wero
found in the rock.

The upper part id" the section on the .South Hraneb i'(mtainiiig concretions full of Ariruln \ebrii»aiiM
ig doubtless the reprofeiitation of No. .'i in this region. A description of this section is given on pugo 71,
liiid of another, .'lO miles from tho l^u'Appelle on tho .South ilraiich on page ''2. .Vniong the HpecnnenH
jiroeurcd from the South Hraiich lM>loiigmg to this foniiation wore Siuiiiliika CoiiruJi, S'uutilitii JJciui/i,
AvirHlii liiiijuirfurmif, Ariciilit Sclirascaini, Jiostelliiria Americana.*

The Thktiahy Skdiks.

No evidence of Tertiary rocks in position east of the .South Hranchof the Saskatchewan was obtained
during the oxplorntion. On nii island in the |irairo called the Wood Hills, referred to in I'hupter II.,
lignite is reported to exist in position, and tlu; fragments showed mo by Charles I'ratt were similar to
those obtained from the boulder lignite mi the Little Souris. On the crest and abrupt sides of tho
Hiding, Porcupine, and Thunder Mountuins the liulinns uflirm tliut beds of lignite exist, a statement
rendered probable by the occurrence of worn fragments in the drift of the valleys of the rivers flowing
from those eminences.

The sand dunes which form so distinguishing a feature near the Elbow of the South Branch may
have been derived from Tertiary sandstones formerly overlying the upper Cretaceous rocks In that

* Sea Cluptcr XIX., by Mr. Miek.

194

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

vicinity. West of tlic 8outli Branch sand hills, quite bare, and certainly not less than 100 feet high,
were seen at a consideralilo distance, and also numerous sand hills were observed south of the
Qu'Appello, east of the Kll)()w of the South Branch. In a footnote, on page 130, of the Geology and
Palii'ontology of the Mexican Hoiindary Line, I'rof. ,Iam(is Hall says tliat the drifting sands of the
south-west, liiie those of the north, appear to be derived from the sandstones of the Tertiary period.

No rocl< was seen in position on the Eyebrow Hill range, although from the circumstance that upper
Cretaceous rocl^s occur in situ in the Qu'Appelle Valley, five miles north-west and 300 fec^ below the
summit of tlie ridge, tlicro is little reason to doubt, that as on the Grand Coteau de Missouri, of
which the Eyebrow Mill range is a northerly extension, Tertiary rocks in position do exist there.

Sand bills and dimes form an important physical feature in the surface geology of the nart of
Rupert's Land under consideration. In a former chapter a short notice is given of their distribution,
and reference is here made to it in view of tiie prol)al)le relationship which may ultimately be established
between sand dunes and hills and the remains of former Tertiaries. If future investigations should
establish the origin of these sand dunes and hills, and show that they are the widely distributed remains
of Tertiary rocks, tlie antiquity of tlie valley of the (Qu'Appelle will be cleared of much doubt.

!i.ln

Lignite.

Although the lignites are not generally available for economic |)nr|)oscs, yet some seams sufficiently
pure for use arc known to exist in the great lignite basin of the Upper Missouri. A brief notice of
the character of this important material iis it occurs in tlie Tertiary rocks of the north-west will enable
a tolerabl;, -.^ urate judgment to be formed of its probable value as a source of fuel in Kupert's Land.

The great lignite basin of the Missouri extends from the 100th to the lOHth degree of west
longitude, and from the 4.")th degree of north latitude to an uiulescribcd limit, probably through the
valley of the Saskatchewan to the valley of the Mackenzie.

Dr. Hayden, who traced the great ^^issouri formation uj) tliat river for a distance of 600 miles, and
up the Yellowstone for .idO miles, considers that the fossils obtained from it show conclusively that it
possesses the mixed character of a fresh water and estuary deposit, and that it cannot be older than the
Miocene jicriod. It is composed of clays, sands, sandstones, and lignites. The extent of country
known to lie occu])ic<l liy this ha.-iii, as it occurs on the Missouri and its tributaries, exceeds fiO,()0()
miles. The bcdsof ligiiiir iu this extensive fiirmation vary in iliickuess as well as in purity at dirt'erent
localities. On the Yellowstone tlicy are found seven feet in thickness. At Fort Berthold on the
Missouri a two-foot l>cd is pure enough to be used as fuel.*

(iovernor Stevens, in bis Report of the I'-xploratiou of a route for tlie Pacific Hailwav, says that
Hgnite has been traced from tlie Coulees of the Mouse lliver to the head waters iif Milk Kiver, a
distance of .)(K) miles, itpiimvnthi uudcrlying the whole of that extensive district of coiinfry, with
a thickness of bed varying from a few inches to six feet; he regards it as a source of fuel not to be
overlooked.t

1 do not euumerati' tlie lignites described liy Sir John Richardson and others as occurring at
Edmonton and various places on the North and Soutli Branches of tiie Siuskatchew an, for the dbvioiis
reason that no doubt liy this tinu' a full ami loniplete (lescri|itiuii of their value as a source of fuel on
the North Branch has been already (ireparcd by l)r. Hector, who would enjoy unusual facilities when
at Edmonton for studying their <lcvelo|)meiit and economic value. On the South Branch they are said
to exist, bv Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in long. 110"^ W. ; but as the country betweeu the Elbow and the
mouth of Bow Hiver is still a firm inciiijiiitii, it is not iinpinbable that ini|)ortant lignite beds may be
found iniwli further east than the longitude specitied by that illustii(nis traveller.*

At Nanino, Vancouver's Island, lignite beds, Imig conjectured to be of Tertiary age, have been
worked to some extent for the San rraiuiscu market, and to supply steamers which toucli tbere.§ The
doubts which have existed resjiecting the age .'f the \'ancouver coal have reccnlly been set at rest by
Mr. Baueniian. who, in a geolngical descriptiim of a part of Vancouver's Island transmitted to Sir
lioderick Murcliison, expresses the opinion tliat the coal of VaiKouver is of Tertiary age.ji

Lignite exists in abiuidance on the Rio del Norte, the river forming part of the boundary line between
the United States and Mexico. Some specimens are so bituminous as to be of no use in the blacksmith's
forge, where it runs together and hecomes liakcd into a solid mass. Scams of
feet tbii-k, are cxpo>e(l on Klni ( 'reek, a tributary of the Del Norte, and have
vahialjle in a blacksniitb's forge. This lignite occurs in Cretaceous foniialiuns.

In Europe. Tertiary liL'iiite deposits iiossess considerable economic value.
France, (iermany, and Switzerland. In England, the lignites of l)e\onslnre,
clay, are about 70 feet thick. The strata of lignite coal near the surface vary from 18 inches to frmr
feet in tbickne.-s, separated by beds of brownish clay of about the same dimensions. The lowermost
stratum of lignite coal is 10 feet tliick.1I

lignite, three to four
been used and found

They are worked in
sociated with beds of

* Pn^f ->. Ui'ifiiirks iiri Ihf 'IVrliary mid ( relaceuiia Fnrniations of Ncliriisldi, Ac, l)y I'. U. Mt'i'k iind V. V. llnyilcn, AM).
t Pacific Ituilw'ay licjtorls, Vijl. 1,, |)ugc H.'>'

X Foot ntite, page llu, Am. Kil. .Sir .Tnhii llicImrdsniiH .\rctic Si'flrctlilig Kxpcilitiun.
I I'acilic Uail»iiy lti'{><irt, Vol VI., (niiloRical ttcpoil.

]! .Sir Uodcrlck Miirilii<,uirs Adiircss at tlic .Vnnivcrsary .Mcc(ii)|{ of tlic Uoyal (icu^raijliical Sucicty. Tliia upiilion is not cllter-
taincil by Dr. Hector, wlio coDsittcri the lignite nt Nanino (o lie of Cretaceous age.

1 Pliillips. ■ - ■•■

iJ II

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

195

CHAPTER XIX.

REMARKS ON TIIK ( RKTACKOrs KOSRII.S COI.l.KCTKl) BY PROKF.SSOIl IIKVIIV V. IIIXD, ON TIIR
ASSIXXIIIOINK AND SASKATCUKWAX KXI'I.OlllNC KXI'F.DITIOX, WITH nKSCRII'TIONS OF SOMK NEW
8PECIKS. IIY K. II. MF.KK.

Kuniarka — List of Fossils cnllccted — Plants — Molluscn — Anoiiiin Flemingi — Inoceramii? Canadensis — Avicula
linguiefomiis — Aviculii Ncbrascana — Leda Iliutli — I-eda F.vaiisi — Itoslellariu Americana — Natita obli(|uata
— Avellana concinna — Ainrnonites placenta — Amnionites, sp, undt. — Aninioiiites Harnstoni — Ammonites
Killingsi — Scaphites nodosus — Scapliites Conradi — Nautilus Uekayi.

The spci'impiiH siibniittod by I'rot'L'ssor Hind from the Assinniboiiio and Saskatchewan country,
toffcther with a portion of the same collection previously sent by Mr. llil'.injjs to Ur. Hayden and the
writer, estal)lish the fact of the existence in that rej^ion of three ol' the five subdivisions into which the
Cretaceous rocks of Nebraska are sc])arable.* Sonu' of tlmse from a locality on the Assinniboine, 150
miles west of Kort Garry, present exactly tlie lifliological ('baracters of Formation No. 2 of the Neliraska
section, and contain small scales of fishes undistiniiuishable from spccinu'ns collected in that formation
by Dr. Ilayden on the Missouri above the mouth of Hif; Sioux lliver, and near the Black Hills.

Others more recently sent by Professor Hind, collected (m Little Souris River, and near the mouth
of the Two Creeks on the Assinniboine, evidently belonj; to a hit>her position in the series. Amongst
these I recojjnize Lcdn /■Jniii.ii\ .Xatiai ohIiiiKntn, and .In/tmnt i-onriiiiin, all of which occur in the upper
part of No. 4 and in No. "i of tlie Nebraska section, but are more connnon iu the former. As the nuitrix
in whicii tlu'v occur presents exactly the liflioloifical characters of No. 4, and is ipiite unlike any part of
No..) of the Neliraska section, there is little mom to doubt that the bed in which they were found
represents the fornu'r of these rocks.

Several of the specinu-ns obtained near Sand Hill Lake on Qu'.\ppelle Kiver, and the South Branch
of the Saskatchewan, are from a fjreen san<lslone, which is more indurated but in other respects more
like the };reen sands of New Jersey tiian any I have before seen fnim north-western localities. In some
of these there are ;treat numbers of Ariniln liiii/iiirtiiriiii.i an<l .1. i\c/ir<isniini, tiie first of which occurs in
l)oth Nos. 4 and .'i of the Nebraska section, but is more abundant in the latter; and the other is nearly
or (piite restricted to No. ,5, wiicrc the twi) foiniations arc not lilended, as is sometimes the case. As tliis
rock dilfcrs entirely in its litiiolofjical characters from Formation No. 4, — while No. .3 is often highly
arenace<ius, and sonietinies assumes a slight greenish tinge, at the higher northern localities in the
Upper Missouri country,-- the probability is that it represents No. 5, or the most recent memlHjr of the
Cretaceous scries of the north-west.

-Amongst the spcciniens lollecfed on the Siuskatchcwau are Aiininmitr.i iiliii-nil(i,\ Xtiiitilus Dehuyi, and
apparently a \,iricty lA' Sni/i/ii/is «m/(WH.<, all of which arc generally characteristic of the upper i)art of
'"ormatiou No. 4, liut |)robably soiiu'tinies pa>> up into .\d. .'1, Others from the same localities contain
Hvali'lliiriii .tiiiirioiiiii ami IVagmeuts of Sniji/iititi ('iiiiriidi, which arc restricted to No. ,j where these two
upper formations are not blended.

Amongst all the coll"ctions from this region, I see nothing indicating the existence of Formations
Nos. 1 and 3 of the Nebraska series, rho\igh they may occur there.

The two AmiiiDiiifis from McKenzics Ki\er are not alone siitlicient to determine the age of the rock
from whicli they were obtained ; the larger one bears <()nsiderable resemblance in form and general
appearance to several .lurassic spe<'ies, though they may lieloug to the Cretaceous epoch. It is very
desirable that a good scries of specimens should be obtained from this remote northern locality, not
only for the purpose of deterinimng the age of the formation, but for the light they might throw upon
far more interesting (piestions resjiecting tlie probable climatic conditions in these high northern lati-
tudes during the Secondary jieriod.

List of the f'riiartonn Fossils cullictn/, with Descriptions of the Sen- Species.

PLANTS.

No. I. — Several impressions apparently of the stems of marine plants occur in the specimens from the
locality on the Assinniboine, near the mouth of the Two Creeks.

No. 2. — Along with the above there are also specimens of a very curious spiral body, diH'ering from
any fossil I ever before met with. It is a long, slender, slightly flattened, or subcylindrical body,
measuring in every part of its length about O'ls inch iu its greatest diameter, and very regularly
coiled into a spiral form, the turns being wulely disc(mnected like those of a cork-screw. Lacli turn
measures about ti'oH inch across, and there are five luriis in a length of V'l.) inches. It is smooth, and
shows no organic structure under a coinmou pocket lens, the organic matter having been replaced by
the fine sediment of which the matrix is c(nnposed. Tnless these are the tendrils or root-like appen-
dages by which some floating plant clung to marine bodies, I can form no conjecture in regard to their
nature. '(Plate 1, fig. 10.)

* Tilt' Cretiici'ims sericH of NebraHkH cutiHista of five (litilii)ct xubdivisicnn, wliicli Imvi-, for convi'inenci'. In.'cn iiumbfrcd 1, ti, 3, ifcc,
from the lowun iipwnrdii.

f Whvn this s|Hviineii wa^ Hrnt sent to Dr. Hnyilcii and the writer, wc \V(>ru not aware of the fact that any other Cretaceous fo&siU
had iH'en found tu that region, mid suggested that it niifjht |H)<isihty hiive hieii carried north by tbi< Indians from sonic of the Upper
lMi•(^ouri loculititH. The nihei <i|ieeiiniMis, however, obtained Ikmii there reiiune all ditiibts in regard lo the eii^tkuee of Cretaceous
rockk on the Sank at chc wan,

Bb 2

196

u i

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIB9INE AND
MOLLUSCA.

LAMELLIBRANCHIATA.

Gen. AxoJiiA. — Lin.

No. 3. — Atiomia Flemiiu/i, N. sp,

Plate 1, Figs. 2 and 3.

Shell oval or sub-circular, compressed plano-convex, extremely thin and fragile. Lower valve flat and
apparently more nearly circular tnan the other. Upper valve depressed convex, rounded in front, and
more broadly and less regularly rounded on the ventral side ; posterior margin obliquely subtruncate
from the dorsal side, rather abrufjtly rounded, and waved so as to form a broad very obscure fold at its
connexion with the ventral margin ; beak small, compressed, located near the middle of the cardinal
edge, but not projecting l)eyond it. Surface mari<ed by small obscure lines of growth. Length I'lO
indies ; breadth from beak to opposite side, one inch.

In Formation No. 4 of the Cretaceous beds in Nel)raska there is a species something like this, which
Dr. Hayden and I have described (but not yet published) under the name of A. su/itriffo/mlis. The
species now before me, however, is much more comjjressed, and more rounded in outline. It differs
from/4. tclHiioides of Morton (Synop. Org. Ueni. p. 61, pi. 5, fig. 11,) in being straighter on the cardinal
side, and in having the umbo of the upper valve nnu'li less prominent and gibbous. Named after
Mr. John Fleming, one of tiie gentlemen connected with the Saskatchewan expedition.

Loctiliti/ ami position. — Little Souris River, in soft lead gray argillaceous rock, or indurated clay,
probably of the age of the fourth division of the Cretaceous series in Nebraska.

Cicn. IsocKRAMis. — Soncrby.

No. 4. — Tnoceramus Ciinnilcusis, X, sp,

Plate 1, Figs. 4 and r>.

Shell broad oblong-oval, compressed, apparently very nearly equi-valve; anterior side rounded;
posterior side longer and more broadly rounded or subtruncate; basefonning a semi-oval curve; hinge
straight, of medium length: beaks small, coiu|)resse(l, scarcely rising above tlu' hinge line, loc.'.ted near
the anterior side, lot very obliiiue; surface ornamented by small obscure irregular concentric undulations,
and fine closely arranged ratiicr indistinct lines of growth, which are geiu'rally only seen on the outer
fibrous layer. Length of larger sjiecimen ai)out 3'3') inches; height near ii'«() inches.

The specimens of this species in the collection are imperfect, l)ut retain enough of its character to
show it IS distinct from any of the known species in tin- Ncliraska formations. It resembles somewhat
/. Siiiinisi.1, Owen (Report, Wisconsin, Iowa, and Minnesota, Tab. Nil. tig. ;!), btit is much more com-
pressed, and longer in [jroportion to its hcigiit.

It also bears some rcseml)lance to /. rri/iiliin's, ITObigny (Pal. Franc, T. li, ])l. 410), but is not near
»o deeply rouiuk'd on the ventral border, and is more compressctl.

Locality and position, — Same as hist.

Gen. Avicn.A. — Klein.

No. a. — A rirula linipttvformis.

Plate 1, l'"ig. C.

^t'iVM/« lint/wr/onnis, I'^vans and .Shiunard, Proceed. Acad. Nat. .Sci. Phila. \'ol. NTI., p. IfiS.
Lomlity and position. — Sandy Hills, South Branch Saskatchewan. Height of land in the Qu'Appelle
Valley, near the Ulbow of South Uranch of the .'Saskatchewan, I'pper Cretaceous.

No, fi. — A rinila Nehragcana.
I'latc 1, Fig. 7.

.Iriciih .Vi'hrasrana, Lvans and .Sbumard, 'I'raus. Acail. .Sci. .St. Louis. Vol. I., p. iiH.
JyoaiHty and position. — .South Hranch of the Saskatchewan. — I'pper Cretaceous.

Gen. Lkda. — Schumacher.

No. 7. — l.fda Hindi, .V. sp.

Plato 1, Figs. S and 9.

.Shell small, sulvovate, compressed : anterior side narrow ly rounded ; ])allial border forming a broad
semi-oval or semi-ovate curve, not crenulate within ; posterior side a little longer than the other, much
compressed, distini'tly sinuous below, and provided with a narrow, short, obtusely-pointed rostiiform
extension at)ove : umboues dcim'ssed, located a little ii> advance of the middle; hinge ba\ing about la
teeth in front of the beaks, and probably more behind ; surface ornamented by distinct, regularly
arranged, rather strong concentric liiu's. Length (f:!.3 inch; height O'lH inch.

This is a very neat little shell, which will be readily distinguished from any of tlii- species yet known
in the Nebraska Cretaceous rocks, by the distinct sinus in its postero-ventral margin. I')veu where the
border is lirokcu away tlie curve of the concentric lines will always show that the sinus did exist in its
margin.

The speciuuMi docs not show the pallial line, but in form and general appearance the shell is more
like Li'da than Xtu'ida; it may, however, p(i>sil)lv belong to the latter geinis.

The spccilic name is given in Irononr of Prof, llcury V. Ilinil, if Trinity College, Toronto, in charge
of the Assiimiboine aixl Saskatchewan Lx))loriug Kxpedition, to whose zeal and industry we arc
indebted for much interesting inturmation respecting the geology and topography of the country
explored.

Locality and position. — Little Souris Kiver, from an equivalent to No. 4 of the Nebraska section.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

diiy,

No. 8. — Leda Evansi,

Leda Evansi, Meek and Hayden, Proceed. Acad. Nat Sci. Phila., Ap. 1856, p. 84.
Locality and ; '?mu — iSouth Branch of the Saskatchewan ; same geological position as last.

GASTEROPOD/ .

Gen. UosTELLAiiiA. — Lamk.

No. 9,-~JlosteUaria Americana.

Roslellarin A merieaim. — Evans and Shumard, Trans. St. Louis Acad. Sci,, Vol. I., p. 42.
Locality and position. — South Branch of the Saskatchewan, Upper Cretaceous.

Gen. Natica. — Adanson.
No. 10. — Natica obliquata.
Natica obliquata. — Hall .and Meek, Mem. Acad. Arts and Sci., Boston, Vol. V., N. s., p. 384, pi. 3,

Locality mid /msitioii. — Two Creeks, on the Assinniboinc ; in bed representing Formation No. 4 of the
Nebraska Cretaceous.

Gen. AvEM.AXA. — D'Oliigny.
No. 11. — Avellaim concinna.
Actemi concinna. — Hall and Meek, Mem. Am. Acad. Arts and .Scien., Boston, Vol. V., N. a., p. 388,
pi. A fig. 6..

The specimen of this species, first figured in the paper aoovc cited, is either a young individual, or
the outer lip was broken away ; for that now before me, which is evidently the same species, has a strong
thickened outer lip; consecpiently it cannot bo a true Ac(ion,h\it agrees more nearly with the characters
of the genus Avctlana.

Ltmdily and jMisition. — Same as last

CEPHALOPODA.

Gen. Ammonitks. — Bruguiere.
\o. li.'. — Amminiti's placenta.

Amnmuitis placenta. — Dckav, N. V. Lvc Nut. Hist., Vol. II., pi. 'u fig. 2; Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci.
Phila., Vol. VI., p. 8S, \c. ; .Morton, Synop. Org. Rem., p. 30, pi. 2, figs. 1 and a.

Locality and /msition. — South Branch of the Saskatcliewan, from an equivalent "f Formation No. 4 of
the Nebraska Cretaceous series.

Locality and /msition.-

No. 13. — Amniimiles. — Sp. undt. (fragmnds.)
■Two Creeks, Va\. No. 4 of Nebraska Cretaceous.

No. 14.-

■ Ammonites liarnsloni, S'. sp.
i'late 'J, Figs. 1 3.

Shell compressed subglabose, broiidly rounded on the dorsum, and prominent or s.ibangular around
the umbilicus, which is deep, (tonieal, and ne.irly as broad as the outer whorl. Volutions having their
greater diameter at right angles to that of the shell ; each of the inner ones about tliree-fourths hidden
m the |)rofound ventral groove of the succeeding turn. Surface ornamented by distinct regular cost;e,
which are sharply elevated around the umbilicus into snirll elongated siibnodose prominences ; and at
less than half the distance across the si<ic> of tin' whorl their number is increased nearly threefold l)y
division and iinphuitation ; after which tlicy become of uniform size, and arch gently forward in passing
over the dorsum.

The septa are deeply divided into five |)rincipal lobes and six saddles, which are crowded together, and
variously branched and subdivided. The clorsal lobe is a little longer than wide, and has three branches
on each side, the two terminal of which are nearly straight and parallel ; the first two lateral branches
above these are nearly of the same size, but more diverging; while the third pair are much smaller,
and all sharply digitate, and more or less subdivided. The dorsal saddle is longer than wide, contracted
in the middle, inid irregularly diviiled into four nneipial branches, the two terminal of which are sub-
diviiled into two brancldets each, and all obtusely digitate, and variously sinuous in the margins.

The superior lateral lol)e is longer than the dorsal iolie, but very irregularly branched, and, like it,

f)rovi(led with numerous sliar|) digitatioiis on all its divisions ; at the extremity it has three very unequal
)ranches, the middle one of which is nuu'h longer than the others, and very slender; the other two are
small, une(iual, opposite, and diverging, that on the right lieiiig sul)divided nearly to its base; above
these there are several other iinecjual alternating lateral brj-'nchcs, one of which on the right side is nuuli
larger than the others. 'I'iie lateral saddle is ratlier smaller than the dorsal, and divided at the extremity
into two very une(pial branches, of which tlie one on the left is larger than the other, and again deeply
divided into two bifid and deeply sinuous bra<'hlels. The inferior lateral lobe is nnich smaller than the
superior, and very irregularly divid(>d into two or three alternating \me(|ual lateral branches on each
side, and one terminal branch, with numerous sinuosities. The ventral lobe is very small, and simply
digitate.

This species bears considerable resemblance in form and in the size and character of its nmbilicns
to the Jurassic species ,1. (>(•«.«, D'Obigny (I'al. I''ranc., Tome I., p. 5(i'A pi. 'JiiiJ), but dill'ers in having
the costie pinched up into little snbnodose prominences around tlie umhdicus, ami bifurcating on the
sides; they are also nmch more arched in pjissmg over the dorsum. It is quite dill'erent from any of

Bb 3

. .m

198

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

the dcscrihpd species from the Nebraska rocks, though I think I have seen some fragments of it in
Lieut. AVnrreii's collections from No. 4 of the Nebraska Cretaceous subdivisions.

Tlic specific name is given in honour of Mr. Geo. Bamston, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, wlio discovered it in tlie valley of Mackenzie's River. It is probably a Cretaceous species, but
may be of Jurassic age.

No. Ifi. — Ammonife.i Billinffni, N.sp.

Plate 2, Figs. 4, 5, and 6.

Shell moderately compressed, or subdiscoidal ; dorsum rounded; umbilicus very small; volutions
having tiu'ir greater breadth at right angles to the shorter diameter of the shell, increasing rather rapidly
in si/e, or more than doubling their diameter each turn ; inner ones entirely embraced and hidden in
the ventral groove of the last turn ; surface apparently smooth, but showing very faint traces of radiating
costii', which arch a little in crossing the dorsum.

Jlorsiil lobe longer tiian wide, provided with three branches on each side, the two terminal of which
are much longer than the otiicrs and each subdivided, tiie sididivisions being short, and each having
two or three suinll digitations; the first two lateral branches al)ove these are small, opposite, very
diverging, and bifid or digitate, and the third pair very small and apparently simple. The dorsal
saddle is as long as the dorsal lo'oe, l>ut narrower, and lias three or ftuir short, obtusely rounded
branches on each siile. The superior lateral loi)e is nearly as large as tiie dorsal saddle, and has three
subequal branches at the t"xtrcmity, tiiat on the dorsal sitle being bifurcate, witii digitate divisi(nis, and
the middle and other lateral divisions arc ))r()vi(led wifli three or more small digitations each. The
inferior lateral li>l)e is miteli smaller than the superior lateral, and lias much the same form, cxceiiting
that its terminal division is ])roportionally larger, and the principal lateral division on the dorsal side is
not so deeidy divided. Tiic ventral lobe is a little smaller, but in other respects very similar to the
inferior lateral lobe, lietween it and the uiMhilicus there appears to be one or two smaller auxiliary
ventral lobes, which seem to show a tendency to branch in the same way as the princi|)al ventral lobe.

The specimen from whici) the foregoing (les<'ription was made out is evidently a yoong shell; con-
sequently, adult individuals of the same species may be expected to jiossess much more distinct cnst.-e.
The lobes and saddles of the septa, in old shells, will also be found much more dee))ly divided and
more complex. l)ut the mode of l)ninching probably remains the same from the time the princii)al
divisions are formed.

As tiie spccimcu described was found in the matrix tilling the umbilicus of ^1. Harmtnni (being only
0'(i7 iiidi in it> greatest diameter), it might be supposed by those who know how widely the Amiiwnilfs
sometimes vary at different ages, that it may be the young of that species. It presents fundamental
(liH'erences. however, in the mode of branching of tlu- lobes and saddles of its septa that cannot be due
to different stage.- of devi'lopnicni. In addition to this, I found along with it a nnicli smaller specimen,
evidentiv the young of A. liiinialiiiii, which shows that the young of that species did not vary in form
inateriallv liom the adult, and is (piite dirt'eicnt from the sjiecies now under consideration.

It has much the form of ./. Ilalli, Meek and llavden (Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci. Phil., \'ol. \'1II.,
p. 70), and there are no diHerences in the structure of the dorsal lobes of the two that might not be
due to dill'erent degrees of development, 'i'lieir suiiorior lateral lobes and dorsal saddles, however,
present radical diflerciMcs, such as we never see in the same species, however widely they may (lifter
m si/e or age.

I have named this species in honour of Mr. li. Billings, the accomplished palipontologist of the
Canadian Geological Survey.

Gen. S( AiMim-.s. — Parkins(m.

No, 16. — Sfii jihites nodosm? Var,

I'late 2, Figs. 7 and 8.

Owen, 1H52. Kent, lowii, Wiscn., and Min.
uich of the Saskatchewan, from an equivalent of Formation No. 4 of Nebraska

Scaphites imtosiii l?]-
Lnriiliti/. — South iJrji
section.

No. i;

-Morton, 1834. .Synop. Org. Rem., p. 19, pi. 19, fig. 4.
rrodromus, p. 214.

-Scaphiles Conradi.

Ammonites Conradi.-
ticaphites fViHrfff//'.— D'Obigny, IHjD,

Ammonitnt Arliriinceimiii, it'c. — Owen, IH.')2. Rep. Iowa, \:c.
Sr.aphites Conradi. — Meek and Hayden, 18'iti. Acad. Nat- Sci. I'hila., p. 281.

Localilii and pimition. — South Branch of the Saitkatchewan ; No. .5, Nebraska section, or moat
recent Cretaceous.

Gen. Nautilus. — Bruguicre.
No. 18. — Mautilm Dekayi.
Plate 2, Figs. 9 and 10.
A'autilu.i Di'kaip. — Morton, 1834. Synop. Org. Rem., pi. viii., fig. 4, and pi. xiii., fig. 4.
Locality ami position. — Simtli Branch of the Saskatchewan ; Upper Crefaceous.

1<J9

it in

Com-

9, but

lating

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
«

CHAPTER XX.

ON SOM>: OF TirK SILUniAX A\D DK.VOVI.W KOSSII.H rOM.KrXKD BV I'nOFKSSOn IIKXBY Y. HIND, ON
TIIK ANSlNNIilOIN'K. AN'I) SA:*KAT(IIKW AN KXH,OlllX(; KXI'KDITIOV. IIY R. llll.I.IN(iS, K.G.S.

OiKce of till' Geological Survqy of Canada,
Montreal, intli Novoinbcr 18"i9.
The Silurian fossils from Lake Winnipeg and the Saskatchewan are interesting, hut unfortunately
many of the speeimenn are in such a had state of preservation that little can he said about them ex(;ept
to indicate the species to which they appear to belong. The following constitute the principal part of
the collection.

PLANTiE.

Two species of furoids from Punk Island in Luke Winnipeg, resembling forms wliich occur in the
Chazy sandstone.

ZooniVTA.

The only coral is a species allied to Columnaria aheulata. It is from Grindstone Point, Lake Winnipeg.

EcHINODKIlMATA.

Columns of a large Oli/ptorrlmts, allied to Cf. ramiilosns, occur at Punk Island and Grindstone Point,
and besides these, at the latter locality were found several plates of a Ghjptocyatites, closely allied to
G. mitltiponts.

BRACIIIOrOOA.

Two specimens of a plaited Uhyconella, a little smaller than B, plena, were found at Punk Island.

Lamkllihhanciiiata.
Modiotupsis parvinacula, i\'. up.

This species closely re8eml)le8 M. modwkrU (Conrad), but is always much smaller. It is trans-
versely elongate, anterior extremity small, rounded half the width of the posterior; the latter obliquely
truncated and somewhat straight from the end of the hinge line for rather more than half the width,
then rounded at the lower posterior angle. Hinge line straight or a little arched full three-fourths the
whole length of the shell. The umbones are less than onc-tiftii the length from the anterior extremity.
The valves are moderately convex, oliscurely and obrKiuely carinate from the lunboiies towards the
lower posterior angle. In many specimens the ventral margin is concave near the anterior extremity,
as if for the purpose of a l)yssus. .Surface with obscure concentric undulations of growth. Length of
large spccinien, one and a half iiu'b. In gciu'ral they are a good deal smaller.

This sliell so much resembles M.imidinluns, that I have long hesitated as to the propriety of giving it
a scjiarate name. It is very widely distributed, since we have specimens from Lake Winnipeg at Punk
Island, from the Pallideau Islands iu Lake Huron, where it occurs in strata which hold tossils of the
Chazy, Black lliver and Trenton limestones, and from near Cornwall and the Island of Montreal in
the Chazy.

Hesides the above there are several sniall nearly circular fossils from Puuk Island, which ajipear to
be casts of some hunelliliranchiate shell.

G AsrKllOI'ODA.

Triichonema umhilicata (Hall, Sp.) Thi^i species occurs at Lake Winnipeg aiul at the Little Sas-
katchewan in considerable inunbers. A species allied to I'leiiriilnmarid rotulnidrs (Hall) is connnoii at
Punk Island, and a Miti-lnnii allied to .'/. Liii/iiiii (Salter), but with more slender whorls, was found at
Punk Island and the Little ■Saskatchewan. Une of the specimens has tlie operculiun iu place, but is
destitute of the shell ami somewhat distorted. None of the Ciasteropuda have the shell preserved.

CKl'llAloroDA.

Ortliurrra.i Siiiijistini, A. .if).
Plate 1, I'ig. 1.

The specimen is a |)ortion of the siphuiu'le, !ij inches in length, 11 lines in diameter at the larger
extremity, and !•> at the smaller. It is nearly cylin<lrical, with a broad, shallow constriction al)ove and
below each of the narrow aniuilations wiiich mark the attaciiment of the septa. There are eight of
those sei)tal rings at the following distances from each other, connnencing at the smaller extremity.
Helween the tirst and secmul, H lines; second and third, VJ lines; third and fourth, 1(1^ lines; fourth
and fifth. ISJ lines; tilth and sixth, l."> lines; sixth and seventh, 13^ lines; seventh and eighth, I'Ji
lines. The annulations are nearly at rigiit angles to the length, and we must infer from this fact either
that the septa are scarcely at all concave, or that the siphuncle must 1)(" central, or very nearly so. If
in an orthoceratite the septa are Hat, then, no matter whether the siphuncle be central or not, the
septal annulations nuist be at right angles; but if the septa are concave, then the aiuudations will be
obli(|ue if the siphuncle be at all removed from the centre. My impression is, that this is a large
orthoceratite, with distant septa and a nearly central siphuncle, since the ammlations have a sciircely
perceptible obli(pnty.

It IS one of those species in which the siphuncle became gradually tilled with a solid calcareous
animal secretion, with the exception of a narrow cylindrical chaiuiel along the centre. This central
canal is clearly indicated in the specimen, and has a diameter of nearly two lines.

Dedicated to Sir George Simnson, Governor of the Hudso.i's Bay Company.

Locality and fnrmatiim, — Cat Head, Lake Wiiuiipeg, supposed to be Silurian.

Besides the above, there are several other cephalopods, all of which arc in a bad state of preservation,
and cannot bo determined without much study and comparison.

A small serpulites appears to bo common at I'unk Island; it much resembles the large species
of the Chazy limestone. — '

Bb 4

200

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

Fouiui vnoM Snakk Iklaxh.

The occurrence of A/, parviusciila., II. umhilkutti, the Mui'lurea, and Glyiitdci/stitrM arc quite sufficient
to show tliat the localities where tiioy have been collected are Lower Silurian, and most probably about
the age of the Black Itivcr and Clmzy limestones.

Dkvonian.

The following are the fossils from Snake Island in Lake VVlnnipego-sis.

Atri/pa nlifulariii (Linne,) in abundance, both the common form, with moderately coarse ribs and the
more finely striated varieties, Atnipa na/icni (Schlotheim). The specimens very closely resemble those
figured by Professor Hall, in bis now work, the "Cieology of Iowa," jilato 0, iigs. 3, n, h, r, tl, but are
u little more pointed in front. A fine OrfA/.i agrees well with the figures and descriptions of (). lowriisis
(Hall), Cieology of Iowa, plate 'J, fig. 4, but is a little longer. The proportions are the same, but the
length, breadth, and depth arc each two lines greater than the figures. Hesides these there are
fragments of several other Uraeliiopods, among which are two small sjjecies of Productus,

The lamellibranehiatc shells are Liicina elli/itira
(Conrad), a species of the Corniferous limestone
and Hamilton groups of Canada and New York,
and a new siiccies of the sumo genus, which I
propose to cull L. occidetitalis.

Of Gasteropoda there are two species of A'«o»i-
phaliis, and a fragment of a Loxunema, most pro-
bably L. iieJ-ilis,

The Cephalopoda consist of fragments of Or-
thoeerits, Oom/ihocenu, and a species of Naittilut
or Gi/roceriu,

Although we have none of the characteristic
spiriferg, corals, or trilobitcs to guide us, yet I
think that upon the evidence of tlie above fossils
we can safely say that this locality is Devonian,
and most probably about the age of the Hamil-
ton group.

The fossils from the Manitobah Islands are
mostly the same as those of Snake Island, with
the addition of two si)ecies of Chonetes and
fragments of a large fish. There is also here
K large Strnmiitv/mra, probably S. roncmtricii.
At Thunder Island, St. Martin's Lake, the Stromatopora occurs, with abundance of a small
Strojilwmeiia and some corals, not determinable.

Luciiia Occuliiitalls, X. sp.

Oval, length about one-ninth greater than the width, binge line gently convex, canlinal extremities
obtusely rounded, anterior and posterior margins gently convex, sul)parullel ventral margin rounded
or a little pointed in the centre; beaks central, small, pointed, iiiiiirved, nearly in contact with each
other, and turned a little towards tlie anterior extremity; both valves moderately convex and marked
with I'oiircntric undulations of growth.

Lcngtii of specimen, nine lines, width eight lines, depth of both valves, five lines. The greatest
width is at about one-fourth the length below the beaks, from which level the margins converge but
little, until within two-fifths <if the length of the front, when they become more strongly curved.
Lmaliln mill format ion. — Snake Island, Lake Winnipego-sis. Devonian.

. There is some evidence of the ex-

(I'H.iiirrTiii ?) istence of .it least a portion of the

.S'u/7i..vi,; hi In/nm Carlxmijemiit I.imsiimc. ( 'arbouifcrous system ill this region.

/■;,, I _ /./y. 2 i-'iy^ y. The fossil |)r()ciired from the half-

breed, who said be collected it from
'• the solid " rock, at some place on
the Ked Kiver, is a Prodiictiin of the
group Simiriliriiliili. all of which
uiMiear to be confined to the Carbo-
niferous series. The specimen is
not worn and iirescnts all the a|>-
pcaraiice of having been freshly
iirokcn from the rock. If it were
procured from a boulder, then there
must be carbonif'eious limestone
north of the locality, us no Imulders
have travelled from the south.

E. UlM.IN(:s.

11. Orihis Iuu'cn»is (Hall), nidi* view.

//. Lut'imi iiecitlvnitiiis (^llillings).

i: „ ,. Oiillineii of same, &ide view.

«/. Luciiia t'Uiplicu (Conrad),

r. iAtxoiiema nviHisf

i'ifi. 1. PiihIuiIum. fwm tied ItiviT.

rig, 2. „ Bide view.

Fig, 3. „ roimil exlremitf .

• llie fnllimiiiff laliel «a. alluciied to lliis siicciinen, " Given lo iiic liy u lialf-breed, » lio declared he picked it from ' solid rmk ' in
HedHiver." (DuuLiful,) II. Y. II.

Tliu inniorlanee of any evidenee of the Carboinferous .erie« in the Valley of lake \VinTii|ie(; eannot lie too higlily rated, altliiiii|;h I
do not think that iiiueli relianee i, to be plaeeil npon the Mali ment in the foresoing label. " Suliil roek " oeenrt as far an known in the
Vallev of Ued Kiver, in two plaees iildy, at the Sloiie Fort atid above, at and below the Kapids, from whirh plaee« holli I)r. Owen anil
I obtained Lower .Silurian fos-ils from n«k in position. It ■> nrobable that the specimen wbb proenred from a bonlder j hut boulders
arc brouuhl north eaeh year from Miniiexila by the ice of Ued Uiver] it i« therefore quite pos-ible that the spieinien finured above was
lirou(!ht by iee from the Hiuth. Under anv eireunuuncej, it> prewnce within UO nnlen of the mouth of Ued Itivcr in an important fact,
and allords nood uround for hope, that if llie Carboniferoui »etic« arc not repreiented on the Hanks of the Hiding, Duck, ami rorcupirie
Muuniaina, they will b« found in llie Stale of .MinnnoU, or Dacouh, on the north Me of the Ileight of Land, and in the Valley of
Hid Uiver. "■ ^'- U>

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

201

CHAl'TEU XXI.

ADDITIONAL IIKM.MIKS OX TIIK I'ICKON IIIVI'.U llOIITi:, WITH AS' KSTIM.MK OK TIIK ( 0.1T OK ol'KNINd
IT I'Oll COMMKIICIAI, TIIAIKH. IIV .1. A. DICKINSON, C. K,

Sib,

At tlie end of my Rejiort on the Pigeon Hiver route, <latod lied llivcr, 8tli June 18"iH, I ineii-
tioned that Mr. Dawson was to make a roin])lete exploration and survey of it, and that he would there-
fore he hetter ahle than I was to form an opinion of its (■n))al)ilities and re(|uired improvements. I
have since then seen and examined the profile or section of it taken hy Mr. Dawson, as well as that of
the Kaministi(|nia and Hivirre La Seine route, and iiavc read his reports on the same. After having
carefully compared these two prolilcs together, I see no reason for changing my opinion expressetl
in a former report, as to the relative merits of the two routes, l)ut which 1 am sorry to say is not in
accordance with Mr. Dawson's. I am induced, therefore, to write a short additional report on this
important suhject, in which it will lie my endeavour, first, to show the superiority I'f the so-called
Pigeon Kivcr route over tlie other in their present natural cimdition as well as in tiu'ir capahilitics
of improvement, and then to suggest some simple means for improving the Pigeon Kivcr route at a
small cost.

On looking at .he profile of this route one is struck iiy its similarity to the profile of an artificial
canal; for with the exception of the Pigeon Hivcr ami the Nameukan, this route consists of a close
chain of lakes, only requiring locks to form a canal suHicicnt for hoats or steamers as large as will ever
he needed for carrying the traflic of tlie country. It will Ih! shown hereafter how the I'igeon Hiver
can he avoided, and the Nameukan presents no dillicultics that cannot he easily overcome.

The protile of the Kaininistii|uia and Hivirre Ka Seine route shows that out of a length of 2-lo miles,
there is only ahout ".i."> miles of lake navigation; the remaining 145 miles <'onsists of rivers of various
velocities. Now the advantages of lakes over rivers for the jnuposes of navigation are many and
important; 1st, the ahsence of currents in lakes, w hie h in rivers impede the upward navigation more
than they assist the <lownward. '.'nelly, lakes arc not siihjcct to the great and sudden changes of level
which occur in most rivers. ;irdlv. a high Hood in a lake would he of no conseipience, whereas in a
river it might he dangerous and fuli of ditlicultics. -Ithly, long and straight coiu-ses may he ol)tained
on lakes, and the steering of craft is cousc((Ueutly easy; but on livers, owing to their windings and
eddies, steering is troulilesome and dillicult.

'I'liese are >onie of the reasons lor my preferring tlic mute hy the lakes to the Kaministi<|uia and
Hiviire I.a .Sfine route; the others heing that it is shorter hy several miles, that the jiortages on it are
hetter, and lastly that it i)asses through a country hearing superior tiniher. This for a long period of
years was the route travelle<l hy the old voyageurs, and was only given up, I understand, on account
of the length of the (irand I'ortagc, which was supposed to have had a had cfl'ect on tlie spirits of the
men, occurring as it did at the I'onimeiu'cnicnt of tlieir journey. I may remark, in confirmation of my
opinion, that our guide, who was with us on Imth routes, and who hail made some (o journeys
hetwcen Lake .Superior and Hcd Hiver, said he niuch preferred the Pigeon Hiver route to any other,
and how could there he a person hetter <|ualified for heing a judge than he.''

'I'he lakes on the I'igi'on Hiver route are all deep, free from shoals and rocks, wide, and yet not so
wide as to he affected liy winds. The works ncce>sary for the inipiovcments of either of these routes
are of course of the same character, hut for the same reasons that make the I'igeon Hiver route prefer-
ahle to the other even now, the works on it I'onld he more easily executed; they would cost less anil he
more permanent. .\ dam placed aiToss a riMr is always liahle to he more or less damaged l)y freshets,
and most of those on the Hiviire La Seine route would, moreover, I think, Hood a great portimi of the
country; whereas dams hiiilt at the head of the streams issuing from the lakes would not have to hear
any extraord' lary force arising from a sudden rusli of water, and would therefore he more stahle. The
portages on the Pigeon Uiver route heing lietter than those on the other will of course cost less for
improvements, and if hereafter locks were to he made where the portages are now, the lakes will afford
a mui'h surer and more ahundant supply of water for them than the rivers. The means that might be
adopted for making this I'igeon Hiver route sufficient for any purposes that are likely to be required
at present or for some time to come are the following : —

The repairing or perhaps reniiikiiig of the old North-west Company's road from I'oiiit des Menrons, near
Fort \\ illiain, to Arrow Lake. I'his road is only .iliont l") miles long, and has been reported favourably
on by a member of the Hed Hiver Kxpedition, who examined it in the year IH.")7. The difficulties that
there would he in improving the portion of the route between Lake Superior and the Height of Land in
any way compel the necessity of this road being made use of. .\rrow Lake will then be the com-
mencement of the water communication, lioats capalile of carrying five tons, such as are at inesent
used by the Hudson's Hay Company, to be em|)loyed on the lakes as far as Hainy Lake. In order to
avoid the unloading and re-loading of the boats at the portages, iron tramways might be laid down at
these places, hy which the loaded boat might he carried from one lake to another, and thus save a great
deal of time and trouble. .Some of the present portages might he got rid of with little expense, by
clearing out the passage between two lakes and placing a dam so that the water in the lower lake wouhl
rise to the level of the upper one, and so deepen the connecting channel and get rid of the rapiil or fall
in it. This could he done in several cases. On Hainy Lake a steamer miglit be placed, — one of the
ordinary lake steamers — which could go as far as Fort Francis on Hainy Hiver. llere, on account of
the falls, a transshipment must he made to another steamer, whicli can |)ly the whole way between the
falls and the north-west corner of the Lake of the Woods. From this point a road to lie made across to the
Ked Hiver Settlement This rood would not be more than ICX) miles long, the greater part of it, 70 miles

20-2

KEPORTS OF THE ASSINNIHOINE AND

at loiiitt, would. I know from my own kiiowltMl;:o (sir my |{<>|iort, \o. V, p. 'JH), lio miulo without any dilH-
cuUy. Till' tnllow iii^t is a roufjli o^liiimlt' of the cost of tiu-sir Hovornl works : —

Itomi from I'oiiit dcs Mi'iirons (Fort William) to Arrow f.ako <.1,()imi

'IVaiiiways over tlu' portages

Dams ....

Hoad from llio l.ako of tlii' Woods to Uod Uivor

U»'pot8 - - -

Kugiiu'criiiff ami (-(mtingoncii's

1,5(10
MM

l.nod

(.11, MM)

I think it is ipiitc safo to say that tlio oxpcnsoH for making thu improvoinontx 1 Imvo snggi'sted would
1k' considiM-alily undi-r I'AtKKi/! sterling.
The lentftli of the jmtposed route, and the time it will take to perform the journev, will he —

I.<'ii(!tli. lloiirs.
Carriage roads - - - - 14.'> 8(i

Tramways -•----;} ti

Hoat navigation - . . . . i.'id .Si)

Steam na\igalion - - - - - isi! IH

Total

•I!t0

'.)•)

.\lIowing a rest of eight hours in the 'J4, the journey may easily he accomplished in less than six
days. .Mr. Dawson has stated that it will take hut "three days, a.s near as may Ik-," to accomplish the
journey hy the other route, hut it appears ho takes no thought of the necessary delays at the portages or
oftluMcst necessary hoth for the travellers an<l the hoatnu-n, and he proposes to nm at night on
luilighted and intricate waters. The journey might no douht lie made in live days, if necessary, hy the
route 1 pnipoM'; hut allowing for accidenlH and delays, i think it hetter to calculate on its taking six.

In conclusion, I Uduld say that, hefore works of any magnitude are undertaken for the ojiening out of a
eonuuunication hctwccn Lake Superior and Ked Uiver it would he advisahle that a nuire accurate survey
than has as yul heen taken should he made of the whole countrv.

Vour • truly,

II. Y. Hind. Ksc|. .(.v.mi:s Aisriis Dk kinson.

\i'. \-c.

TABLF. of tlie I'OIIT.AOKS

UlVRII I(oi:tk (tlic olil
and l)l^T.\^l'^; iVmn I.

rorid'^cN.

, DKruAHoKS, Uaimds, I.akks, I.akk Sthaits, ami IlAVKiABi.K ('manski.s on the PiOKos
Nortli-wi'si ('oin|iiiiiy's Uoiiici I'rimi I.akk Si'i'Kaioii t i Uainy I.akk, showing their LENtiTils
AKE .Siii'Kuma.*

1. (ir.iiul I'ortiigi; - 8' IB
J. I'artriilijt' I'lirlngi 0"JJ

3. Fowl Piirtii|,'t' - !• i:i

•I, SIuosc rorl.i;;i; - OMl

J. Cirial I'lurryl'orl. 0- IS

I:. Mud l>url;.;;i; - 0' 13

7. I.'.'SsiT ClnTrv 1>. 0-1:1

K. Watap I'urlu(!u - O'MO

V. Grfal New IVm. 1 ■•!';

111. I'lirla^u - - O'Ol

II. IViLic'c - - O-L'l

IJ. IIfightol'I.:n,i! P. ()•'."•■

1;1. I.iltlf KuiL I'orl. 0-Oii

t.iki' .Slniiti

illiil Nttvi^rtlile

Clmniu-ln.

111

Iti-markn.

Lciiirtli SInliitc" '
I In SI. . Milwi.
.lllIrK

. . I o-ou

1. Pinjoon 11., 1-50 ! »•!« ;

... J !r66 ,

9. INgvnii U. -t'^J't ' U-91 Slroiincurrpiit. Ca-
\ . . - - MM't lUHs {lolt'il ii|i part
il. I'ljfiKiM It. 1'7,5 H'41 ufihi-way,

- . Ifi'lii
4. rigvoii II. ;l-l;i l<i-.5l

. - ' lU'fi'l !

. ' - . ■ W.77 I
... .1 -JS-M

. , - - ' •J.5-73 I

- , . - I 'Jil-SM '

. ' - . ;t0'46 '

. ■ . . i :I0'71
i; . . I - . so-C(i
. : . . :iM(i

- - - 31-VJ

- - , :i9' 10
I - - - - :i'j-4o :

- - - 4:M0 ;

I, . - ' - - 41-5I1 '

. I - . 47;lli I fi'tt fall.
i - ... .17., 57

- I - . .iO-1!)

- : - - ,w4o

• ; - - M-'M
. i - - 5.T,iO
. ' . - .5'i"J7 14fi'i't fall.

- . - . I . . «,i;-.jo 1.' fill fall. Norlh

I 5. LakeSlraili 0-25 (;.5".'l canoM let ilown

. y*-. ... 1... r..-

- - . - Ctrl' 41* by line.

6. LakcSlraitI 0-75 fi5-IB

i • - - - I (i(i":;i I

7. I.aki' Strait 0-23 j 66-24 i

• 'lli-j ilislaiiciii an

3. Rapid

I I __ .

from thf IiitiriiRtioiial Boiinilary .Survey, — inaile according In the 7lli arlicio of the Treaty of Ghent,

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

'203

ydilK-

I'urinKvi

I Unitli

Mlln.

D^cliargi'ii.

Unith
ln«t,
Mlln.

lUpiilt.

Idkc

l.riliv StrnilK

■ltd N:lviKtihltf

Channili.

Irf'Mirlli

I l.4MI<l(ll

R«ir

II. Mill I'all I'orliigi' ()M)i:
\.-. Maiiil INirliiKo - 0"J!)

B«'d9

's. Lake S-rnii ()•'.'« ««'/i.5

I n. Itnpid ()■(

I'.', l.iikf

' 4. lUiiidi ()-07

J Kapiil O-O/i

l:l. I.lki'

0'H3

0-7.^ i.9-;ll

:l ft fall. -2 fi. d.

op.

Nurtli cailiiuH lut
dtjwii hy line.
.5ft.ridl,'Jili». wide.
N»irlli cnnoi-^ Ivt

I 6. Ila|d<l

OOI

I 7. Hnpld U'«l
H. Uipid 001
9. Uiipid 0-OJ

'I. I.nki' Stridl

10. I„iko Sir.

II. I.ikf Sir-

I'J. I,nki' .St.,

69*:JH I duwii !)y liiiu.
7()l;l i4f.. lull, li.-itl. wide.

70' IN

Nurtli
du

II i-niiiiUH

lit

I by lii

I. l)iVliiir;!< o-l).';

I(i. I'lir-JHr -

O-OI

17. l*orta((i' -

O-Ol

IS. .S««in|i I'.irlHKv-

n-\i\

I'.l. rorlJBf -

0-0'i

JO. I'.trtuKi' -

O'OI

'il. rort.-igi' •

0-09

■ii. Carp I'urtagi' •

1 0-l.i

'J:t. I'lirUKo -

0-11

'J4. rortagi' -

O-IO

35. Kir I'ortagi-

0"i.l

o-l.';

1:1. I^aku Sir. . -

■111 - - ■ (1-70

II. Lake .Str. . -

l.'i. I.. .Sii(.Mn;iniili la'()7 - • - -

Hi, .Swiifnp Luke i)'H*i . . . .

.I- 113 - . -

10-71'

I.;. I.akl- Sir
O'liO
•IM)' -
Ki'-liO -

II. I,:li,>'

17. ('y|^rl■^s I.uki'

18. Kliile Lilkl-

0.|j TO'CK till. fall. Ndilhca-
nui'% 1ft diiwii liy

. . 70- 7J lint'.

,,.jo 70'm I li. full, Hull hy
luadvd Nurlli ca«

70 "H."! IIOI'H.

7I-0.5 1 ft. fall. Hull by
loadi'd Nuitli I'ft

7 1 -111, i,on.

71 Ml l!l fuel fall,
71-.i:l :

7ii-MK sfwifril.
7ii'!i;i

77'(M
77-'ll
t.7 • ; I
S7-7J
SS'.il
MS'7S
'M-U,

l!l. I.nki' -

JO. llirili I.ako -

■>i. iii-v....oa I,. ■

'lo. IliipM O'OI

II. Itapid 0-02

•ill. I'lirtam' -
27. I'ortagi' .
2«. Curtain r.ill I'or. ' OMO

O'O?
0-09

\ _

'li'.'. I aki'

811.

IliillK' Torla^'i' -

0".'.l

.SO.

I'tirtagt'

()■ l-J

31.

I'oi tajjt' -

O-IS

3'.'.

I'ortagf .

0-01

ail

Nil I'l'rtagt'

0-08

3-1

Portage -

0-14

I ! \i:\. Crooki'd I/. -

I'.'. Ui,|ii.i o-o:) ■ .

'J I. Iron I.ako

I \'2S. Niqllufiiiun 1,.

I '• i'/fi. lark/ - -

;'J7. Sanilpoint L. •
l'2H. Nanu'nkan I..

0"J0

. - loi's.; I

- 104 -^9
. . I0.5-119
. . I'M- IS

. 10V7S
. . lOj'IPM

- 111'.) '0.1

- . 110'04

- - I'Jti'OI
Hi. I.aki' .Str. (V.'.l I'Jii' 14

. - l'.'li':.9

17. Lake S i. O--.".' I'Jfi'.M

. . 1'.'. 'SI n fi'i't fall.

IH. I.aki' Sir. 0':l.i I'JIi'H.i

. . I'J7''J0 'J fi'ct fall.

19. I.al>.' Sir. l'.:o l'J7'-.'.'

. - 1JK'7J

o'di - ... I'.s':;)

- ' - - . . I'J9'44

(i-hV ■ ... :ia9'33 1

. . I4i;'3;) 1
. - I4'>'l:) ;1 iVct fall,
4-.-.r - ... l4'i'4S '

. . I.IOMW

.'■-•■ic - ... .I51",il

. - ,l'/:l';il

.-.•«; - - - - I7:l'43

I179-03

'.'o. Ijikf Sir . O'.'i 1 179' IS
- - ,l7ll''ia
'J I. T,<ioii\

Narrows 7'(;0 il79'71? j

!i'(;7 - ... ;|S7'3S I

.'■•'.'0 - ... I I'm -99 I

. JO-." 19 I

■-•'.'. I.aki'Iil O'U'.i 'JO-J'^T

• - ;'.'0'.''5'.> I
'.':). l..iki' S:r. .',•■.'.1 iiO'J'6B !

Total -

Total

O'Ui; Total 0-33

Total

100-(i'.

Ti.t.il

::0'9J ■.>i.7-Bfi Shitutc mill's l.i
Kainy L:iki'.

Synopsis of the t'oiiKdoiNu Taiilk of the 1'uikon liivKii Hoiiik.

I.anil Carriage

Di'i'liargi's

Kapidi

Lakes

Lake Straits -

SIntiiti' Mill's.
- l.iMM

.5-:l:ll

0*()i, ^ I (I • 3'J Stat, iniivs Iiiternipli'd Navigalio

ovi.i J

•fi'» 1

.,l", V I9ru4 Stat, miles Naiigable Water.

KiO'd'J
30

Ag8reg»te distance - - '.WSli from I.iike .Snperior to Ilaiiiy Lake.
Distance (torn Lake Superior to Hainy Ijike, riVi the Kaininistiijiiia route - •,«;3'34 statute ii-.iUs.

Cc 2

A t

304

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

A P V i: N I) I \.

METIIODN TO HK PUIIHIKU IN DKTKII.MIN'lMl TIIK DATA KOII TIIK IIADlH OF TIIK MAI'H AND

HKPORTN OK THIN K.XPl.OhATION.

In ordor to (lotPiiuiiio, witliiii tlio liinitpd prriml alloitoil for fli'ld cipcrationii, tlio toixwrapliical and
geological cliaractor of tlu> n'ff'um iiulii'atcd tor (■x|)lorntioii, and to di'serilic faitht'idly and in dotnil itN
chariu'loriitti<' I'oatnrott and adaptaliiiity tor Hctticnu'iit, it iH nocoHHaiy tliat the inoHt ex|H'dilioiiH nipthod
of condnt'tin;; tlic exploratory Hurvey ho adopted, combined at the Hanie time with every poesihle acenracy.
A» it may lu'coine advisalile (hiring tiio proftrcHH of the exoloration to form ditVerent diviitioim, tho

ida

(iiuvided, and follow

fullouiii); Vnles and tm^rj^orttioim are liesiKiied for f(eneral );iii(iance, in order that the exploration)) and
DurvcyH may l)e nmih' on a imiforni Hyntein. An exteiiHive eiinipment of instrnmentH may not he supplied
to eacli oliserver; lie iniiHt tiicrerore make the liest nee of those with which he '
tlione riilcM which are best adapted to his mode of travelliiin.

OiiHcrvalions for latitude and longitude nhould lie made whenever tliere is an opportunity, and
eHpecially at mich placeH as the Honourable Hudson Hay Company's forts, the mouths, forku, and
sources of rivers, the extremities of lakes, and at |)romiiieiit hills. I'lie magnetic variation Hhonid, if
i)08sible, be determined at every convenient camp. The delineution of the topography of the country
between established jxisitioiis is to be accomplished by track-survey. The courses, and cross-beurinjfs
to all conspicuous points, are to lie taken by magnetic compass, and the intermediate itinerary <listancps
to be ascertained by mii'nmieter, or viameter, or by the measured and corrected velocity ot the carts,
canoes, or boats. With a view to make a complete reconnaissance of u considerable breadth i if country,
lateral traverses shonUI be made at stated intervals on either side of the main lines of exploratimi.

When surveying rivers or lakes in a Imat or canoe, the instruments essentially reipiired for the track
arc a watch, a magnetic compass, a log-line, and a sounding-line. At every la'iid of a river the direction
of the reach in front is to lie taken witli the compass, and when the reach is very long the lioat must Im-
stopped ill order that the course may lie taken more accurately. 'I'he times of arriving at and departing
from each bend, or the vertex of two cnurses, and the length of any halt iiiioii a reach or course, are to
he carefully noted. 'I'be velocity of the lioat is to be determined by the log-line, with which fieipient
observations are to be made, particularly when any change in the rate is supposed to occur. In rivers
it is first necessary to measure the velocity of the current, as it has to lie added to or subtracted from
the ii/iiHiniit rate of the boat, indicated by log-line before the true rate is ascertained The depth,
particularly of large rivers and hikes, is to be taken at close intervals, and the height of anv water-mark
above the present level. The width of the rivers is to be recorded (from measurement when possible)
whenever it seems to vary. The height of the hanks and tlood-iiiarks are also to 1m' noted. The

iiosition and dimensions of islands, tributary streams, sand-bars, boulders, \-c., are to be ascertained,
t being very dillicult to estimate correctly the fall or length of swift raiiids, it will be necessary to make
instrumental observations for ibis purpose, at least whenever it is possible to do so; and wlicn tliey occur
on large rivers, very particular descriptions of them, and their portages, if there are ,uiy, sho'iild be
given. Accurate cross- sections of rivers, with the mean rate of current at each place, should be made
as frc(|uently as possible. Whenever it call be done, it would be most desirable, in addition to taking
cross-sections and rate of current, to ascertain by levelling the fall of the river in some mensiirrd distance,
08 a i|uartcr or half a mile. These observations and measurements will be of the greatest use in deter-
mining till' descent in rivers w hose general dimensions and rate of current are known, thereby enabling
sections or protilcs to be made of them hereafter. In ascertaining the rate of current, it sliouhl Ih'
measured with the log-line at certain intervals iirn).i.s the river, as it varies in ditferent parts.

When surveying tlie coast of a lake, the boat or canoe should be steered in as straight a line as

iiossible from one point or headland to another, and propelled ut a uniform rate, so 4hat the compass or
og-liue will not be rc(piired so often, and there will be more time for delineating the coast, taking
soundin^rs, and general observations. The positions of islands and intermediate points can be esta-
blisheil ninre ac( urately by taking several intersecting bearings to them from points already determined
on the course, which is the base-line, than by estimation, as the eye is oftentimes deceived in
distances.

(Ill land there are several ways of obtaining distances •■xpeditiously, ditl'ering in accuracy according
to the iiiitiirc III' the ground. In an oixn, liuly country, Itoi'hon's microiiieter-teles<'ope is the best, but
it may be liniiKl to retard pnigress. ()ii A re/ ground a viameter gives very accurate results; there are
many <nc.i-iiios, bottcver, when it cannot be used. Determining the track distances by the time and
rate of tnivelliiig will probably be the method most used on this survey. The rate therefore at which
the carts travel slionld be known as near as can be, and should be adhered to as much as possible.
Three miles an hour is the average rate at w hicli horses walk, but it can be tried occasionally by timing
them on a ;;(iv;.v»;((/ distance. Due allowances must of c<iurse be made lor undnlatitms in the ground
and the wiiiding.- "f the tnick. The position of distant hills or other conspicuous objects, and the wiilth
oi' viillcys, rlidulil 00 (letennincd by triaiignlatiiin when the ground is suitable for moiLsuriiig a base-line.
'11 10 bci^liis III' hills iir nioiintains, and the depths of valleys, slioidd be computed trigonometrically when
tiio Imol or baroinelor is not used, i'he names of all rivers, lakes, \:c., should be ascertained from the
Indians or half-iirceds, and infuriiiation procured from them relative to those parts not exploreil. The
a|iiii<ixiiiialo portions and diiiieiisions of lakes, rivers, hills, \.c., according to the Indians and others,
iiiav bo made usi; of in coiistruttiiig a map of the country, but it should bo strictly mentioned, and
notbiiig sliimid l>i> laid down as a fact which has not been surveyed and examined.

Ill aiiditiiiii to the to|i()grapliical, geological, and general character of the region to be explored (the
nature ol'ilie soil, timber, vegetation, economic materials, iVc, icv., specified in the general instructions,
and of which exact deiicriptiong should be given) it is unnecessary to state in detail what should be

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXI'EUITION.

905

idiiiK summer in a phcnnmonnii of roiiNtaiit yearly occiirrpnco and Marked c-haradcrUticb in the
h-wt'.-'t. Tho f(illii»'Mi)( 'I'uhlo, kindly i'urniNlu>d from tliu private nienior iiida of Mr. James Walker,

observed in the country, aa everything ihoiild l>e noted. The fleld-lK)okii, of which dilTerent kindi are
provided for tho xevoral methmiN of Hurvoying, muHt lo kept in bucIi u (^leur manner that the notei
recorded can be undemtood and plotted by other pumoni .iian the ubHcrver if necC)««ury,

II.

Indian Siimmkii.

Indiii
north-

AHHistant at tho i'rovim >..! Obiicrvatory, eittabli.shoH the fact that the hazy wiirni, mellow weather we
term Indian summer is a iteriodical |menoincnon in Canada, hut the cauxe ilocs not aitpear to be (|uite
underst(H)d. The chaructorM of Indian sununer are more decided in tiie north-went than in tho neigh-
bimrhood of Luko Ontario. Sounds are distinctly audible at great diKtances; objectx aro dilKcult to
discern inilcss cIono at hand ; the weather is warm and oppressive, tho atmosphere hazy and culm, and
every object apimars to wear u tranquil and drowsy aspect.

IxnrAX .SUMMKR AT TolKINTO.

1H40 /(( IHnu, ini-liuine.
[iiO years.]

Year.

Comnicnceniunt.

Terniiiiutioii,

N'o.orDiiya,

lleiiiarka.

iHiO

lilt Novciiilu'r

.'lib November

INM

'J<Hli OctolicT

'Jtiil Niiveinlier

iNfJ

'.'Hlh OttiliiT

Mil NovcmbiT

iKt:!

'.'.'Iril Oclohir

'J.ltli Octolicr

Ihll'

'/iml October

'J(>tb Octolicr

And 'Jiid to 7tli N..v.

IHir,

'JItli ()pli)l)fr

'2<(tli Orlolier

()

(li ilaya.)

Ik Mi

ttli Novt'inlur

"til November

1HI7

'JHth OcliiluT

;thl October

1K(.H

'JOth Ndviciilicr

'J.'trd November

iHiU

l.'llli November

IKili Noveiiilier

INK)

7tli Novciiilicr

l.'llb November

|K'>I

(ith Octdlier -

IliliOetdber

IKVJ

Killi November

'Jlsl November

IN.'i.'l

PJtIi Octoher

2()tli Oetcibcr

(»

Well murk.d.

lH5t

•2Mi Ortober

'JHtli Oetiilur

Not well iiuirkcd.

1H.W

Diili Ovtiiber

■Jlilli October

Not well iiuirked.

lH5(i

liMb ()ct((l)er

'."ind October

Very dense lb),'.

And 'Jiul to Hth Nov.

lH,-i7

.'illi October -

I'.'lli October

18.W

iHib Ocliiber

Wth Oetober

(7 diivs.>

IH.iiJ

'Jiiil November
'JTtli October -

Mtli November
'2ott November

Well marked.

Mean result

J. W.

III.

I. — Taiu.i: Of Mai.xktk Variations.

Locality.

Toronto . . . .

Unimmond's I'tlanil (Lake Huron)
Fort William (Lake Superior) -
Do); llivcr (Foot of Dog Lake)
Kuinini''ti(piia (Height ol'I.niiil)
Kttiny Lake . . - -

AsHiiuiilioiiK' Uiver . - -

Little .S luris itiver
Camp I 17. Cape Kitclilnaslii, Lake

Winnipeg.
Camp l'J.5. I'olnt WigHuni, Lnkc

Winnipcf,'.
Camp 'JiK). L;ike Maiiitobali -
Camp (i!). Little .Saskalcluwari
Cnmp 1!»7. Watir-liLO Itiver
Camp 17. lied Deer's Head River -
Camp 'J.J. liirt Kllice
Camp .'II. (iu'.\ppclle Mi.ssion
Camp 't.'i. I'lirt I'elly
Camp (i'J. Fort a la Corno

N. Latitude. W. Loiii;. [ Variation.

t.'t .'I!* 'Jl-

i(i (M) (K)

|.H '.'.'1 .'10

t« r.(> (K)

7.'> 17 M.'l
SI (K) (H)
H'.t '.'7 10

!■!• H! in il.S 'JO (K)

!•!» H (X) f)!l ;!,■; (K)

.5:1 K (K) ' 97 'JS 00

'I'J 10 (H) I !*7 .')!) (K)

100 (i 00

!)f( .5,j (K)

100 .->.-> 00

101 1.") (H)
10! 'J7 00
101 ,')(i (H)
101- ;10 (H)

.-ll

17 (K) 1

.V)

;t.'t 1.5

:,\

.51- 00 1

\ii

1 l.l.

•W

■J:t ;I9

,50

i!> 10

■■.1

17 '2'2

,5;t

;«) (K)

Date.

'J (ViW. I

(K) (N)

H 1.5 K.t I

7 1 K.: I

7 'J(; IC.| !

lOlo I'JK.f

l.'t (HI K. I

1,5 00 E. i

1.5 (X) E. i
i

15 00 E.

1,5 (K) E.

1 .5 ;») K.

1() 1,5 K.

1() .5.') K.

17 :«) E.

IH (K) E.

1!» ;i() K,

'2'2 ;«) E.

1.S.5!).
Line of no variation, IK;5I.*

,lunc 'JO,
June 'J,5,
Aui;ust 'j;),

September 'J,

October 'J.'t,
.\ugust I'J,
October li),
July 'J.
July 11,
July 19,
.Auj;u.»t 'J,
August 7.

1858.

•J. W. KiwtiT mid J. U. Wliitnc), IS.II.

t Rivniiil, IS'J4.

Cc 3

t Murray, 184(i.

§ Tlionipson, IS26.

906

UKl'OUTS Ol' THE ASSINNliiOINE AND

■ < fe i *i i J; i; v 4 = ''' 33
"— — »l J -; _: »: ;l »i ji t ;i

io»iff) — ac9i»? — sees*
-•f 'b 'b <e '* '3 'b '"'' I- 1- i '-

10 If* 10 >rS <o 'fl »■" tfl tf^ '0 »fl '-■;

C>M v« p^ aj M« H _• M M ^ ■-• Mi*

0". Ji •» ?i n

■ I I I I I I is' ^ r';; ;i: IS \%

5) c c on I": r.

>TS

I I I li^'-i; MM

I M M M M I M

"5 "* C '0 C. S S 1 - M i ■

If; I." 1^ 1,^ ■• — ^1 ^, •* . . 1 . 1^

i I- i i'- 1'- i i i i — c ?.
S r-. .t r. f! .?. r: •»••** n

•* :m X — c — -* I ■• ?t ;i if^ —
. >. i'" i I'l- i'- i i ih i'- 1'- 3f i

1* c c ,r ■; ;i ■; •* I - r ;i — ••

- — »*■ ^ •'- ^ •'* ^ ,b '*• i'- *i »b iH

r; r. ri r. « n r. S r: :-.;-. « rf

M — c ;i II « r; I - ;i X I - —

1- -■ — C ~ ^ - i.T _ I . r. —
— i j". c ?. i — o ii — ji ji

k k

Li.

• S.S

is"

— 3

O 41

X §•

a I

^ I

s S < -S

f hi
■^ HI

c -5 -5 O

III:

B ^

I-

1 J^ 1 •
.5 <* -•

fe. ?' -s s a

H r; i-

71 k
"> _

•s

^ ;j »

i : n B

fi S J

E-

•7

£•

—

;«

-3

•3

■'A

■,5

■y.

'•J
s
e

*-•

■y

-=■

■^

3
c

t
^

•5

7> k

SASKA'rCHEWAN EXPLOHINCJ KXPKDITION.

' III. MaiINI'TII VaIIIATIONM Ut 'rollOMII I'llllll IMII (I) IMAU ill('lllKi\l'.

aor

Vmht.

IKuHiiiilJM.

INUI
IH4I

\tnn

IHU
I AM

IHt7

IHtO

Annunl

i.u-;)

MS-!t

+♦»

\.nif

+i«*

l.'27-i!»

+ 3-7»

l.'-ifll

t-in*

1 .MO H

+ 1-7

1..TI'.'

+ 'J'4

I.:n i

+ y«

l..'Ui'!)

•l-l'3

YiMr. I Dfi'liiuitiau,

I H.K)
I N.I I

is.r-,

I H,i5(i

1H,-.H
IN.'JU

Mrun (Ivi'llnutiuii in IHVI wan
Po. (III. lN,1<)i>i

.:m

+ I-7

. Ill

•1

+ '^;i

f-l

. (.i

»•

+ '2'H'

+ 1

<j«

+ 'M«

.>7

ft*

+ai»

+ 1

.1:1

:»•

+.vr

•i'i

■(-^•H*

• »

()(*

+ $•2

+ 2.().'l

()•

+ 'i7*

+ '-'

- 1.

+.10*

u:i

•

i(.(Xi-0

Iiicri'iiiie ill IH ycniii
Mt'iiii iiiiiiiml iniriMini'

IV.

+ '2U

A \.\>r III' till' W \ii:ii-('ni.(iiii Dii.vwimix ami I'linTiiiiii \i'ii'« iirciiiiiiiaiiyiiig tlii< Ui.i r,

Lut «/ Wiitif-Ctiloiir Drill"! iii/H, hi/ W. TfiniJ, /rom

Siinri/Df til till' h'.i

liAKK WlNNII-K(l.

I. /'Ac (Irhuhloiif I'liinl. — SlinHiiij; cxpoiurvn (if !'_'.

liincHtohi' anil s.iiiiUidim', .\ rli inicti'riitic «('0I1(^

nil till" »i'»l niii«t.
V. Iher Ishinii — Sliiiwiii^ r^Ciirjinii'iiti iif liiiicMtiiiii*

rrpiisiii! iiii «iinil»liiiii'. \ i liiir.iiMcriHtic mnic

nil llii' Hcit niiU' III' i<liiiii|i ami iin tlir wi at ciiast, l.'l.
\i, i.'iMift Stinr nviir ih* MnntU itl' Itnt iiit'i-r.-~

Sliowinu till' incriM«i' nl' laiiil liy the tliniwiiij;

ii|i III' Aaiiil IkmicIicii ami llii> r<iriiiatiiiii nl' niarslivi

III liicir rear.
K Tfii' (ill lltiiil. — Sliiiwiii); llip |iri'('i|iitouii clilTt uf

liini'sliiML' al lliix |Hiiiit anil almi); tlic cnant.

.Wc/.'/o'v tiihi'n li'i J, Fliuii'iiiij, .{■'xiiliint-
fliriliUnii.

TlIK (Jli'.VlM'KI.I.K. (Ml ('Al.r.lSd lIlVK.n.

7'Ar I'llllll/ lit' l/ir (Jii'Aji/iillr iif llii' Mhsiiin if'li.
ol'|ji|{. I— .Siiiiuiiif; I JK' ilia rail IT of lliccxcava-
liiiii, aihl ilii' trt't'li'^4 prairii.' nii tlio miiiili liAiik.
I)iiiuii>iiin» 111' valk'y. 'JO.') I'l't't (liT|i, 1 iiiilo '1\
cliaiii'. wile.

<^ii.I/i/hIIi- Lnkif, I'hItiiiiJ Lulir Xii. 1, — Tlio
(Jir.V|>|>i'lli' I.uki'4 art' H in nninlKr .mil vKry
t'riiiii i to Hi niili'4 in li'iictli, I'lnni I,* tn (iii (vvi
in iK'|itli, anil I'rnni hall' a mile l>i 1^ iiiilv in
wiiltli.

TlIK Sa«K Ml IIKWAN. 1 ^_

a. The (iriiiiil /{ii/iiil iif'l/ii Siisliiili /iritiiH. SUitw'inff
tilt' tiiipi'r anil moit |ivri'i|>itintH piirtinii iif tlir
(iranii Kapul, uitli the prrpindiriilar dill'!! ul' 1.^.
liiiirH'iinc nn t'ltlirr miIi'.

'i. T/ir Sii.i/iiitclii'iriiit III I'lirt ii la Coriie, — Showing;
the llnniiinalilc I IiuIkiiii'^i II. ly ('iinipany'!i I'nrt
(rif;lit liank nf liu' rivi,,) anil tlii' S't'|)ii\vcwiii
.Misniiin (Cli. Ill' Kii);.) nn tlic left liank.

7. Cuiiibrrliiiiil lliiiim: — dm' nl' llif principal t'lirH

III till' lliinniir.ilili' lliiilsi>n% Hay ('uwpaiiy,
mtuali'il nil Tini' Ulaiiil l.aki', a trilinlary nt' the
Kai>kati'lii'H'an.

8. TliK /'lis, IT Ciiiiiliirliiiiil Missiiiiiiin/ Slnliiin (Cli.

Ill' r.n>;.)nii till' Sii!.k,iirlir«an. On the right
bunk uru Christ Cliurili anil Ihu I'arsnnagi.'.

lit.

Lakk .\lANiroKAii AMI S r. M.viitin's I.akk.
i). t'liirjonl.. ,\ inissiiinaiy suitimi (( li. nrr.ni;.) on
tlir I'artriil^;!' ( nip Ifivir, a slrcain llnHitif; Iriiiii
Lake .Manitiliali iiiln .'^i. Marlin's l.ako. I, View.
InnkiiiK np the riter.

10. I'liirfiiiil. — Sieiiiiil viciv (Innkii j; ilnwii).

11. Siii/iir l.\liiiiil, !>l. Miirliii'.s l.iikv. — ^Shinviii}; its

peeuli.ir riiek I'liriiiatinn.

18.
l!l.

Tin: l.iTii.i-: .''luiiiis, mi Minsi; Kivmi.

Villi- of till' I'lillri/ iiiiir t/ir HIiii' llilh nf the
Sniiria. .ShiiMini; llie (jre it treeUsi pr.iiiie ex-
tenilin^ tn the (ir.iiiil ('uteail ile .\liiMiiii-i.

The imrliiilhi iriiiii/nl I'nllii/ of l/ii' l.illli Siiiirh~~
near H ick I'.it Creek, an alHiient I'rnni the Hack-
Tat I.akeM.

'/'//(• Viilliii of llir l.illli- Soiiris, — in it.i passage
tliriiii);li ii piirtiiin nl' the llliie IlilN, shoivinj;
lllv ehuracter ul' lliu exeavaliiin.

TlIK As.siVMiiolNi: ItlVKIi.

I'ii'ir from t/ii' Ihilf-ii'iii/ Hiiiili, — Sliiiwiii^ tlio
(ileal Wnmleil N'alley llirniii.;li uliieh the river
ine.inili TM. In (he lii^iaiiee is I'eniliiiia Mniin-
tain, nilli the p.irtially wnuileil eniintry iiiler-
veiiini.'.

I'orl /Cllici , nn Heaver Creek, a small trileitaiy
of tne As-inniliiiine, llnwiiii: lhrii.if;h a very
tli'i'P lint sliiirt valley. The I'nrt is nne of the
ehief priivi^iiMi ilepi'its nf the lion. [Iiul^iurs
Hay Cnnip;iiiy.

MihIi' of iiii/iiiiiiii/ ilriiil liiiffiilo Mill' nil the
prairie ; Iteil liiver Carls.

Sloiii/ Mouiiliiiii,

* Till* fiitriis iiiiirki'il lliii* * nri- llu' neiutst ii)>|iriixiiiiiitit<n iKiluci'd I'rinn thi- prvvioiis aniuiiil incrvasr ; or tlu v art' liu.' niv.iii^ of
a scrivn of ubscrv,itioll yi-nr,

Cc 1

208

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

List of Photographs taken

The Ked RivEn.

1. View of Red River from the Stone Fort.

2. View of Reil River from St. Andrew's Cliurcli,

four miles above tlie Stone Tort.

3. Red River ; Middle Settlement, eight miles below

Fort Garry.

4. Freighter's Boat on the banks of Ked River, seven

miles below Fort (Jarry

5. Bishop's Court, (the roaidciice of the Bishop of

Rupert's Land,) on the banks oi' Red River.

These photographs exhibit the general character of
the river.

C'lll'RCIlK.S OF Sklkihk Sktti.kmknt.

(>. Cathedral of St. liDiiifice ( Itnnian Catholic) and

Nunnery on the banks ol' lied Uivcr, opposite

Fort Ciarry.
T. St. .lohn's Churtli, two miles beloiv Fort (iarry.

(Cli. of F.ng. )
8. Preslnteriim Church and I'arsonagc, seven miles

Mim I'ort Ciarry.
!). St. I'aul's Church, l'arsoii;'f;e, and School House,

8i iiiilcs bildw Fort (iarry. (Ch. oC Kng. )

10. St. .Andrew's Chnroh ( Uapicls Cluircli). l'> miles

bi-liiw Fort (iarry. (^Ch. of Kng.)

11. St. Andrew's Farsoini)'e.

Houses and Stohks of tiii; Settleks.
I'i. Residence of Chief Factor ,tlu' late .Mr. Bird),

Middle Setllemcnt.
ly. Kesidiiice of Mr. Bannutyne, near I'ort (iarry.
\l. .Mr. McUcrnint's Store, near Fort (iarry.
IS. (Quarters of the .AsyinnlDoine and SaskatelicHan

Fxploriuj,' Kxpediiion, .Middle .Settlement.
I(i. Farm Huu-es and Windmills, .Middle Settlement.

hy Ilvmphroy L. Hlmc

Indian Tento and Graves.

17. Ojibway Tents on the banks of Red River, near

the .Middle Settlement.

18. Tents in the Prairie, west of the Settlement.

19. Birch Bark Tents, west bank of Red River,

.Middle Settlement.

20. Indian (i raves, covered with split sticks.

21. Indian Graves, covered with birch bark.

TiiK I'kairie,

22. The Prairie, on the Banks of Ked River, looking

south.
2,'i. The Prairie, looking west.

Fours AND SriiiiEs of tiik IIonouhaiii.k Hudson's
Bay CoMi'ANY.

21. I'oit (iarry, at the conHnence of Ked River and

the AssiunibiiiiH'.
'-'.■i. lion. Hudson's Bay Company's Oflicers' (Quarters,

I.owir or Stone Fort.
'_'(). Fur Store, interior ol" Lower or Stone I'ort.

Nativk Races.

27. .lohii .McKay, a Cree Half-breed.

2N. I.etitia, a Crce Half-breed.

2!l. Su>an. a Sw.unpy-Cree Half-breed.

;((). \Vigv\ani. An () ibway HaH'-breed, Lake Superior.

.')1. .\n Ojibway Sipiaw, with Papoose.

.12. Ked itiver I'leifilitir s Boat.

:i.'i. Dog Carioles; Fxpedltion returning to Crow
WioL", bv the winter road.

C'tJpUs of thesi Photwiruphs are imw ill eiiiirsr of pulilicatioii, aiitl iniii/ In /iroiiiriil from ./. Iltniiiith,
5, Htli/nuirlirt, London, I'rin; Two (iiiinms ihr xrl.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

209

', near

t.
River,

INDEX.

okiiiff

son's
and

Amelanchier Canadensis
Antiquities, Indian

„ „ on Rainy River •

Page
71
11!)
119
llf)
119
119
119
204

Little Houria
I, „ Rod Rivor -

„ „ Qu'Appclle River

„ „ Limit of

AlTKNDIX ...

Arable Lund, on the South Rruncli, Tonchwood
HilLs, Swan River, Assinniboine, White

Mud River - - - - - 20

Area traversed by tlie Kx|>edi(iou - - ;i')

Areas lit for Settlement - - 40, 41, TH, 79

Arrow Lake, ini|)ortance of - - - 14

Aaainniboino Valley • - - 24, !i 1

volume of water in

„ „ cliaracterof - - -

„ „ dimensions of Valley and

river - - -

Auroras —

brilliant, August 26, 1858 -

fine, Septeinlier 22 - - - -

brilliant, Oetober 2

erinison, Oetolier 27 -

('iddnel IieiViiy on -

Sir tlohn Rieliar<l80M on
Aviciih \rhrnsciiiiii

„ Lingitajormis

Back-fat Creek - - - .

Had Woods, the - . . .

Halsani Spruce on the South llranch

Baptism at Qn'Appelle Mission

Barks, used as a subntitule for Tobacco -

Beaches, ancient Lake, with Lii!nit<>

„ fornialion of new, Lake Winnipeg
„ and Terraces . - .

Big Black Island . - . .

Birch Hills
Birds —

Bittern

(i ray Cranes ...

Ducks, Plover

Rico Birds ...

Cinnamon Thrush -

Tyrant Flycatcher

Grackic, Yellow-headed Blackbird

Cliff- Swallow

Black Torn

Pigeons ...

Humming Bird

Pelicans

Nighthawk

Buzzards

Ravens

Barking Crows

White Crane

Magpies

Cat-bird .

Meadow Lark

Chipping sparrow

(iulls-

ICagles

Geese

Robins

Louns

4.1

. 90
. 9(i

- U(i

- 14(>

- 147

- 147
70, I9(i
70, I9(i

.■)()

7;!
.').)

19
95
I7S
9(>
70

• 47, .">, 7H
40, ■..), 74, HO
47, .■)2, .5.), ()9

- 47

- 47,80

- 47

- 47, .)K
4H, 74

- 4S, .r.i

- 4S

- 48, 80
5l,.)8,6I, io;t

- ,)1
.53, 9a

5.1, 10()

- 5;i
55, 77
55. 58

r>:,. 58

58. iCi
58, S;), 10,1
■ .)8,(>9,74

- 59

- 69

BiiiDS — cniif.

Kingtisliera ...

Blue .lays ....
Canada Jays ...

Whiskey .lack ...

White Bellied Swallow
Cherry Bird ...

Hawks ....

Prairie Hens ....

drey Geese ....
Yellow Birds ....

American Cuckoo ....
Herons ....

Snow.liirds - ...

Bird's-eye Limestonn ...
Birds on the Assinuiboino Prairies
„ „ Great Prairie

„ Qu'Appclle Valley
„ at the Wi'cd Ridge

on the South Branch
„ „ Carlton Trail
„ „ (lanks of the Riding Mountain
Bbiekfoot Indians (see al>o Indians)

., ,, numbers of ...

„ hunting grounds of
Bine Hills of the Assinniboinc

,, „ Sonris . - -

Bog Iron Ore on the Souris
Bones, ' (ireat,' on Shell Creek

., gigantic, in Valley Hivcr -
lluis, le Grand . - - -

Bois de Vaehe ....
Boulder, gigantic, in the Qn'Appelle Valley
Boulders —

on the Souris . . -

near the Weed Ridge
near Sand Hill Lake
on Uidges in tJu'Appello Valley
neat Spy Hill . . . .

on Litlli' .Saskatchewan . - .

distribution of . - . .

)iolished pavement of, on the South Branch
in bed of South Branch . . .

in bed of North Branch - . .

Boundary Line from Lake Superior to the Lake
of the Woods - - - -

Brigades, on the Saskatchewan
„ for Rocky Mountain District
„ ascent of (Jrand Rapid by
Brooking, Rev. Mr.
Budd, Rev. Henry
Butfalo—

on the Souris ...

on the Two Creeks

mired in the Qu'Appclle

carcases of, on the Prairie -

seen wcndirg towards the Grand Coteau

tracks on ihu Eyebrow Hill Range

Pound in the Sandy Hills -

shocking appearance of the pound

mode of impoinuling

bellowing at night

on the ' River that Turns '

floating down the South Branch

importance of, to Indians -

oxen . . . . •

Wood Buffalo

Page

69, 74
. 69

- 69
. 106

- 69
. 69
69,74

- 77

- 80
. 80

- 80
. 105
. 185

- 48

- 53

- 69
. 55

- 74

- 78
. 80

- 127
. 127

- 128
30,48

- 49
19, 51
. 54
. 108
. 30
. 51
. 65

- 52
. 55
. 62

62, 63, 65

- 79

- 1(X)
. 178

73
74
73

. 83

- 86

- 88

- 97
43, 50, 76

- 51

- .54

- 60
61,62

- 62

- 63
. 64

- 64

- 65

- 72

- 115

'il

210

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

II. I

Page
Buffalo — cont.

country, Hmita of - ■ . - lid

former limits of - ■ • - 11 o

present ranges of - - - - 116

systematic migration of - - - 1 l(i

Half-lireed, hunt of - - - - 119

blina - - - - - 117

domesticated - - - - 1 1 7

Carboniferous scries - - - - 1H7

„ „ prol)ablc absence of in llie

basin of liiilic \Vinni|)eg - - 1H7

,, „ prosciice df in the eastern

flanks (if the Hocky Jlduntiiins - IK"

Canoes for ilesccndinjj llic Saskaluliewan - 4(j

„ on tlic Simlli ISrancli of Saskatchewan - (iij

on the While .Mud Kiver - . . (SO

„ fleet of, on I'ail ridge Crop Uiver - 102

Cedar Lake - - - - - M,)

Chart, Indian - - - - - \Y2

Chalk Hills of)

Christy, Mr. - - . . H(i

Chazy Kormation - - - !H>, In;)

Clay, fine stralificd. on llie Sunlli Kninch - "■'!, 74

,, on Wist Coast of I. like Winnipeir - !)()

Climate on Souili Bnincli - - ;i4, 4;), l.W

„ iit Fort a la Cnnie - - - 4:!

Climate on Long t'nek compared with the

(JiiAppellc - - . .

„ al the Tuiiihwood Hills, humidity of

,, causes (if diiri'i'iiue in - - -

Country in the Valley of Liniix Creek, tidiness (if

„ ricliiii'ss 111', ill the TiiiK liwiiod Hills

ricliiicss (if. 1)11 I lie soiith-ca-t flank (if the
UiiliiiL' MdiiMlaiii . - .

„ about (.'iiniberlanil

„ flatness (if. on the .Saskatchewan Im4u\v
Teariiiu' Ivivcr ...

„ low and marshy mi .Main .Saskatchewan
east (if .Marshy Lake - - -

„ east (if Grand I'.apid
„ liclwecii Duck Miiuiitain and Winnipego-
sis Lake . - ...

„ mirlh-east iif Riding Mountain -
■ ,, tjitwein Dauphin Lake ami Manitobah

Hiiu.-c. swampy cliaiactir (if
„ abiiut Kbb and Kiiiw Lake
,, aliiiiit .Maiiit.iliali IIuiisc

„ spl.ii.liil. -diiih .if Maiiil.iliah Liik(>
., Iielwccn Oak ruiiit and l''(irt (iarry

Conferv.i' (in Lake Winnipeg
Coal Falls ....

Cochrani>. .Vrchdeacmi -
Cowley. Hev. .Mr.
Concretions mi the Sduris

,, on the South Itr.incli
Coulee, la I Irainli'

C'HETA( KliLs Kill lis

,. Oil the Sdlllis

,, hdri/milaliiy (if, in the Sdiiris .'lO

„ (ill the Twd (I'ccks - - (i.'i

„ on the (iir.\pp(lle at the

hei).'lit df laud . (I.'t, H.'i

„ (111 the (^u'.\ppi4le near Seis-

sors Creek
„ on the South Branch, elia-

rai'liT (if
„ mi till' Wapid Uiver

on Kidiiig Mountain
Crimean Vcjietabhs . . .

Cross Woods - - - . .

Cross Lake - - - . .

Crosi! Lake, clniracliT of - . .

('ritaiiiiiis Sirir.i, extent (if, in Uii|)eri's Land -
., l''ds«ils. .N'cw Spreies . - .

Cumberland Hmisc

., iinpm'tani'c of

Dam across .South Iliam i>
Data, 11,1 thods df ili'tirniinin;:
Dauphin Lake, dimensions ol

l.'i;i

.so
K\

Nl!

s;i

104

KHi

- 103
. 109

- Ill

- ii;i

- Ill

- 9.1

- 17
102. 112

- 19
70, 71

- :j(i

- 42

- M

70
SO

107
16
.').')
S6
S()

1S9

i9;i

H2, K\

. s;i

- ;t;t

- 204

- 10.-.

Page

Devonian Series - - - - - 186

„ limit of - - - - 187

" Dead Men " - - - - - 64

Deer island - - - - - 96

Devil's Hills - - - - 49, 137

Denudation, eflects of - - - -181

Depressions, Circular in Prairie - - 79,181

Dew on the (Ju'Appelle, on the Souris - - .53

„ abundant, the South Branch - - 72

., at the 'I'oiichwood Hills - - 79

„ formation of, inimediately after sunset - 79

Dickinson, Mr. .). A., Report on the I'igeon

Uiver Route - - . - 16

„ (iu'.V|ipelle Valley east of

the Slission - - 22

„ „ Country east and west of

the lied Hiver north of

the 49lli parallel - 2S

Dickinson, Mr, ,). A„ Narrative of his descent

of the Qu'Appelle from the Fishing Lakes to

the Assinniboine . - . - 67

Dimensions of valleys and rivers - - . 45

Distanci^ travelled, appro.viiuate . . - 4.V

Dog, Indian, value of - - - .118

„ sacrifice of - - - - 1 IH

„ voracity of - - - - - IIH

Drawings, water-coloiir, list of - . . 207

Drift, (llspdsition of, on South Branch - - LSI

Drift of slalis in - - - |;U

Dried .Meat - - - - . .",4

Drift on the South Hianch . - 70,71

., reinaikable Kxpnsurc of - . . 62

,. near the ( iranil Fiirks. .Saskatchewiin - 74

., at the 'rodihwodil Hills - . . 7s

Drifted 'I'recs du the Smilli Bnincli - - 72

Dunes (111 tli(^ .\ssinilidiiine - . . 48

,, (111 the .Sduris .... .",0

„ nil the (iu'.Vppelle - - - . 62

„ (in the Sdutli llniuch - - - 71

,, at the Modse Woods, .Snuih Branch - 72

„ near Furl Kllice - - - - 79

,, pnigrcss df ..... |;)7

„ and Sand Hills - - . . [HI

Duck .Mountain - - - - 29,10.!

Kbb and Flow Lake - . - - 109

Kllidw-lidiie Creek - - - • (iO

Kinigrani H(.ute across the Continent - - 33

Kiicampnient, lieinaius of Ancient Cre(i ■ - 61

Krraties . - - - . . 17s

Kvapdralimi.ellicls (if, (in the A.ssiniiilioinii River 38

(111 the Souris liiver - .52
mi the Sdiilh liranidi of

the .Saskatchewan . 72

Lyibriiw Hill Hange • - - - 62

Fairford ..... )()._)

Flowers, vast prol'usinn df, in llie Viillev of Long

Creek - - - - - 76

Feiiliire-, SiirlMee, df the ( duntry - . ;j(;

(ieiildgical - - . . 41

Fires, vast extent df in IJiiiiert's Land - .10,76

., (lesiruciion (iccasinned by - - - 76

Fissures in Limeslmie Rocks - . - 97

Fish —

Sturgeon ill file Assliiiiiboiiii' . . 4n

White. Mauitdliah Lake - - - 48

(idld-eyes. Assinniboine - . . 4s
Stiirgemi, nimilli of .Souris. also Pickerel,

(idld-eyes, (irey and Red Suckers . 49

df Qu'Appelle Fishing Lakes - . ,')7

While. df(,!u'.\ppelle Lakes - - .')7, 78

in While .\lii(l River - - . . HO

at Cedar Lake ( White-lisb and .Sturgeon) . 8.)

at the Ibdt lift; rand Rapid - . . h9

Peiniean - - . - - 92

Weir, Indian, on .lack-fish River - - 93

Pike - - - - - 9,5

White, in Little Saskatchewan - . 100

.Mode of prpswving - - - - 110

Page
■ 186

- 187

- 64

- 96
49, 137

- 181
79, 181

79
79

vast of

16
22

- 28
'"(•cut

ikt'.s to

- 67

- 45

- 4,r

- 118

- IIS

- IIH

- 207

- I.il

- 131

- .54
70,71

- ()2

- 74

- 78

- 72

- 48

- .-.o

- 62

- 71

- 72

- 79

- 137

- 181
29, IO,i

- 109
• (iO

- 33

- 61

- 178
vcr ,|s

- .52

«r

- 72

- 62

- 102

- 76

- .^i

- 41
•lO, 76

- 76

- 97

- 48

- 4S

■ 48

■ 4!)
•J7

7.78
80
8.5
H9

9.5
100
110

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

'21%

VtBH—cont.

Fishing Lnkcn — See Qu'AppolIu Lukes.
„ Stntion, Swampy, near Cedar Lake
„ „ Ojibwiiy

Fleming, Mr., Narrative by -

„ „ arrival of, at Manitobah Ixland
Floods of 1852, efl'ects on tlio Souris

„ „ on tlio Iju'AppoUe
Forest —

on Hidinf; Mountain . . .

on la Uiviere Sale - - - -

on the Assiiiniboine, cliuractcr of -
at I'rairie I'onagc
on the ijuuris ...

former I'xton.^ion of, on tlic Qu'Appi'lIc
in Qu'Appolli' Valli'y -
at tli(? Moose Woods
remains of Aspen, on Long Creek
on Water-hen Kiver
);rowth of, coniiectod with climate
on the Assinnilioine
increase of, near Spy Hill
on the Uapid River . . -

on th(. Riding Mountain
on the While Mud River -
on Cedar Lake ...

ab.jut Cross Lake - . -

oi south-west eoasi of Lake Winnipeg
on Little Saskatchewan
Forts and I'osts of II. 11. U. Co.. —

Koit Telly ...
Fort (tarry, bitiludi' of
Foil Klliie . . . •

Foit a la Ciirne . . -

Toiicliwdod Hill Fort
Cuniherlaiid Hoose

Miiosc Lake llimse ...
Cediir Lake House -
Fiiiii'iird House
Jlanitobali House -
Fossils —

Anoniiii Fleinlui.'! . . -

liioi'eiainu.^ Canadensis
Avieula Liujiuiefoniiis

„ .N'eliiascuua
Leda Himli - - . .

,, Kvaiisi
Hostellaria Aineriiana
Nalica iililiipiata ...
Avellaua eoncinna
Ammonites I'lacenta
sp. nndt.
„ Ihirnstoni

llilliiifisi
Soaphitos Nodosus
Conradi
Nautilus Dek.iyi
OrthiiciTas Siiiipsoni -
from Suiike I.-land
I'l'iuluctii-
Freifihler's Itoiits. how tin

Rapid - - ■ -

Frost, Hoar, on the L'Oih August -

27lh .. -
Fuel, si'afeity "f, on ihr (Ji'iiii I'lMiirie
„ west oi' the Forks of the tju'Appelli'

Page

85
98

- 81

■ 112
. 51

■ 33

- 26

- 29
31,48

- 48

- .50

- 5(i

- (i9

- 72

- 76

- 103

- 140

- 19

- 79
. 80

- 80

- 80
. 85

- 89

- 96

- I(X)

- 23

- 4(1

- r,\

Pafte
Grand Rapid, of the Saskatchewan - - 37

„ description of - - - 88

„ its length, descent, breadth, and

deptli
Grand Forks of the Saskatchewan

„ of the Qii'Appellc

Grasshoppers - - ...

,, at Lane's I'ost ...

„ in the Ihid Woods

„ in the Sandy Hills of the Assinni-

boine . . - -

., at the mouth of the Souris

,. vast flight of, elTect produced In

the aliiiospliere - - -

„ on the (ireat Fniirie

„ on I'ipe Stone Creek

at Fort Klliee
at th<. Cross Woods
flight over tJn'Appclle Mis. ion -
„ at the 'I'ouehwooil Hills

„ at the Third Fishing Lake

., passing over the Lower Qu'Ap-

pelle ni.ar Scissors Creek
sei'ti near the Luiopy Hills
„ on the Carlton Trail

,, at the Touchwood Hills

(ill Dauphin Lake -

- 191)

- 196

- liKi

- I!)6

- 19(i

- 197

- I9H

- I9S

- I9S
I9S

- 199

- 2(K»

- 2(K)
surmount (he Grand

38, 88

- 79

- HO

- .",2

- (il

- 42

Geology of the area traversed
(ieologi(.al Sections —

on the Little .Sourj.* - - - .'lO

(iu'Appelle Valley - - - .)9, (i.l

South lliaiich of the Saskatchewan 71, 72, 73

Lake Winnipeg - - - - 9.)

Deer Islanil. Lake Winnipeg - - 96

Funk Island - - - - - 97

(ierinan Creek ( La Rivieri' Seine) - - 2M

Grindstone I'oint. Rocks at - - 97, iHt

Gold in British Columbia, Influence of - - 31

Grand t'oleau de Missiairi - - - 60

Grand Foliage, Character of - - - 14

Grizzly Rear
(iuehhi' Rose

on the Sol

- 88

- 74
- 59, 60

- 19

- 47

- 48

49
49

49
53
53
54
iio
57

77
78

108
74
50

lialf-lileeils aceoinpaiiyiiig the Kxpeilitidii

hunters, escape from the Iho^kfcet -
,. daily allowiiiice of, at Manitohah

House . . . -

llarebi !l. abiinihiiu'. on llie IJu'Appeile
' Heart Hill - . . . .

lliine, Hilinphrey, li-l iil' I'hotographs by
Hind, \\., list of wiiter-c'.lunr Drawings liy
Hops on the. .Souris - - -

,. on the (^u'Appelle, ai Fi.-hing Lakes
.. on Dauphin Lake ...

., on the White .Miiil River - - -

Hon. Hudson Hay Cmnpany's Olliceis, uniform

as-istance rendered by
Horse, Inilian - - - - -

value ot', to I'niirie linliuus
,. instances of the Inlelligi'iice of
„ attaclinieni of Inilians to
Hitchcock, vii'w." III! aiuient river valleys
Hlimiil Uegiini, Viillcy of Lake Winnipeg
Hiiilson River Ciuiip, Fe^sIN In
Hector, Dr.. Verniillion l'ii^> traversed by

Imuans —

Ojibwnys, at I'rnirlc I'orlag"
Sioux, signs of, at luoiiih of .Souris
Sioux or iVssinniboiiies . - .

.Miindan lliiusc- (iincieni ) - .. .

Sioux on lied Deer's Head River -
Crecs, forinei iiuiubeis \ i.»iiing Fort F.llice -
(•jibway on the Qu'.\piielle - - -

Cl'ees wish 'hell' childi'en taught
Plain Ci-ees near ibe (iraud Forks of the
liu'Appellc - . . .

., aiicieiil incainpinent of

at ItulliilM Found Hill l.nke -
lio~pilal'le, oil the l^irAppi'lle -
at Sand Hill Lake
,. iit the Sandy Hills

,, objeelii.iis III the Half-breeds -

HIackfeel, neighliourbood of
frees on the Smitb llranch - - -

Swainpys on tlie Saskatchewan
scarcity of, on the Main Saskatchewan
Great Moose hunting ground of the Swampy
Djibway camp . . . .

on Walerhi'u River - - - -

of Dauphin Lake - . - .

habits and custiaus of

origin of - . . - .

relaliouship and kindred of - -

111

208

207

108

44
117
117
117
US
129
134
IS5
137

47
49

54
54
57

(io

Si)

l(K)

103

lOS

120

123

I* I
f «

li '1

212

Indians— conr
numbers of

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

frequenting H.ll. H. Co.'s Posts,

over estimated - - 125,

Plain Tribes, enumeration of

Sioux or Dacotahs - - - -

• Blnckfeet . - - - -

Indian Head range - - - -

Indian attempt to stampede horses

„ turnip, used by the Crees • - -

., corn, at Qu'Appelle Mission
„ signH (telegraph) . . -

„ fires .....

„ summer - - • 110,111,

„ generosity - - - -

„ wealth - - . - -

„ scalp dances - - - -

„ medicine ceremonies ...
„ warfare .....
„ cruelty . . - - -

„ superstitions - - - -

„ conjurors - - - 121,

„ customs - - - - -

„ excitement . . - -

Inoceramus - - - - -

ISSTIIUCTIONS . . - - -

„ to Mr. Dickinson - - -

„ to Mr. Fleming ...

Iroquois Voyageurs • - - -

iTlNERAUr - - - - 149 to

Kinni-kinnik - - - - -

Kaministiquiii and Riviere La Seine route

L1.KES —

Wliitc-fish Lake - - - -

Kose Lake ....

Arrow Lake - - - -

Seiganagah

on Pijcon Uiver liouto (see also Appendix
for length, &c.) - - - -

relation to one another in the Valley of
Lake Winnipeg ...

of the Winnipeg Basin - - -

Fisliing Lake . . - .

Long Lake, tJu'Appelle Valk'V - GO,

Sund-llill Liikr - - "

on tlie Valley nf Long Creek
seen from the Lumpy Hill
Crooked Luke - - - -

Hound Lake ....

Salt Lake - - ...

tiuill Liiki' - -

vasi nuiiibers of, at the Toucliwood Hills -
Marshy Lake - - - -

Mudily Lake ....

Cedar Lake - - ...

Cross Lake ....

Lake of the Woods, country west of -
St. Martin's Luke - - . -

Winnipeg, see Winnipeg, Luke.
Daupliin Lake - - - -

Kill) and Flow Luke
Shoal Luke - . . -

Laureiitian Si'ries ...

Sysleni ...

Lignite, on the Siiiiris ... li), 43

of the Wood Hills
Limestone, tirst eXjKisiire on Main Saskatchewan,
near Muddy Lake ...

„ exposures on Cedar Lake
Littlo Saskatciiew 111 ....
„ „ great beauty of - -

,, Touehwooil Hills ...

„ Saskatchewan or Dauphin River,

eharaetcr of - - -

Long Creek .... 3'

„ Lake - - ...

Loon's Narrows ....

Lumpy Hill of the Woods
Mail Route, via thu Qu'Appelle, udvontagos of

Page

125

126

125

126

127

205

112

115

120

122

123

177

201

15
15
15
15

36
36
56
129
62
76
77
(is

78
78
79
H4

s:,

101

105
109
113
IH2
183
50
56

85
85
24
80
78

1(X)

,76

77
34

35
85
85
71
86

■- 87

88
56
43
84
102
110

- 76
205-207

- Ill

- 54

- 105

- 14

- 40

- 49

- 112

- 103

- 102

• 103

- 105

- 112
character of the north-east coast 113

112

113

110

109

113

Maps, list of, on the Qu'Appelle Valley
Maps, list of - • • - -

Marshes, vast extent of, on Main Saskatchewan
Mesaskatomina Berry . . . .

Merchandize, conveyance of, up tlio Saskatchewan
„ amount at present conveyed by

Hon. Hudson Bay Company
„ how taken up the Grand Rapid by

„ Hon. Hudson Bay Company

Mission, the Qu'Appelle - • - -

„ the Nepowewin . . .

„ the Pass (Christ Church)
,, Fairford . . . .

Missionaries, ])rivations of . . .

Mississippi, Valley of, separation from Rocky
Mountains - - . .

Moles, their burrows on Long Creek
Magnetic Variations
Manitou ....
Mammotli, supjiosed remains of
Moss River, rapids in
Moose Lake, ice on ...
Moose Woods . . . ,

Moose Head Mountain
Monkman's Point, Lake Manitobah
Manitobuh Lake ...
Flat Rock Bay -
„ Steep Rock point -

„ depth of - .

„ freezing of

„ fluctuations in tl>o level of

„ lending dimensions of -

„ altitude above the .sea

„ shallowness of -

„ ell'eets i>f wind on

„ Oak Point

Munitoliuh Islund, fossils of
MeKenzie, Mr. ....
McTavish, Mr., assistance rendered by
Nepowewin .Mission ...
Oak Creek, east of Red River
„ forest, ancient, south of Assinniboine
„ Point, setth'menl at -
Ochre - . - . .

Ojibways (see Indians).
Pusses, Rocky Mountain ...
Palliser, Caplnin, Kxpedilion of
Palmer Worm, in thi' lUii Woods -
Partridge Crop River

„ „ character of

Pavement of llouhlers on the South Ilraneli
Pembina .Monntuiii

,, ,, ridges on . . .

Pembina River, c<ininiunieutcs with the Souris
Peniicuii - > . . . .

„ Portage . . . .

lish . . . . .

Peiiiiawn Rivi'r . . . .

Photographs, list of - - . -

' Pines" (Balsam Spruce) . . .

Pino (.!reek - . . . .

„ Panksinn -
„ Island Luke -
Porlage, Great Dog
Pigeon River Route,

description of
Mr. Dickinson's Rej.ort on
table of distances on
achlitionnl remarks on
estimate of cost of opening
for trutKc ...

- 137

- 48

- 102

- 73
29,48

- ISO
50
54
82
92
15

207
49
49
7(i
83

178
17
16

2(Y>

201

202

Pigeons ..... 48,.%

Pigeon 'IVaps - - . . - 46

Plains, trei'lets . . - . . 40

Plum Creek - - - . .50

I'ipestone Creek - - - - . 53

Poire, la - - - - 71,72

Portages - - - - - 15

„ length of, see Table in Appendix • 202

P
P
P
P

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

213

ran
by

Pig*
35

BS
71
86

- 87
by

■ 88

102

110

32
76
05-207
111
54
105
14
40
49

- 112

- 103

- 102
• 103

- 103

- 105

- 112
>t 113

- 112

- 112
• 112

■ 113

■ 110
109

45
75
28
30
113
S(7

Page

Portage river - - - - • 80

Postal communication acroas the Continent - 35

Pound, BulTalo, on the Qu'Appcllo - - - 63

Prairie, magnificent, on tlio Souria - -50

„ west of tlie Souris, treclcag - • 50

„ deaert, cliarncter of, west of tlie 8ourls - 52

„ horizontality of, on Red Deer Iluad river 53

„ tlie Groat, character of • - 53

„ extension of, on tlie Assinniboinc - 54

„ „ on the (^u'Appc'lle '56, 59

„ on the Qu'Appulle, west of the Grand

Forks - ~ - -60

„ between the Qu'ApjKslle and Grand

Coteau - - - - - 60

„ treeless, with Sand Dunes on South

Branch ... . 71,72

„ increase of, near the Grand Fork (Sua) 74
„ annual extension of • - - 76

„ on fire - - - - 60

„ burned .... 60, 76
„ reclamation of - - - - 60

„ wet and salt - - . . 78

„ gravelly and sandy, east of Touchwood

hills - - . .79

„ north-west of Pheasant mountain - 79

„ willow - - . - - 79

„ beauty of the While Mud river - 80

„ rich, trcelcsii, b<.'twceii White Mud river

and Prairie Portage - - - 80

„ magnificence of, south of Lake Manito-

bah 114

„ tail of - - - . - 140

liiiid ..... ;t9
Prairie I'orliigc . - . . - 47

Provisions for llio Prairie country - - 46

Provision pusl.i - - - - - 54

Pratt, Chiirlcs - . • - - 56

Praying Man - - - • - 57

yuADRCi-EUs : —

KIk ...

Jumping deer - •

Wolves ...

Ciibri (prong-horned antelope) -

Itiitl'alo

Moose

Prairie Iliirc

Togaiiy (I'rairie Wolf)

Hiidger . . -

48,49
49,70

- 49
53, 56, 59

- .")4
55, 1(H)

- 59

- 70

- 74

- 1(!6

- 107
21,2.1

- 33

Skunks

Foxes

Beaver

Mink

Uubliits

Hear
Qu'Appelli' Valley

„ character of

„ dimensions of - - - 45

„ Hooded when the snow melts - 33

„ cliiiraeter of, at Fishing Lakes 5H

„ eliaraeler of, at Grand Forks (iO

„ at Sand Hill Lake - - (i'2

„ at Height of Land - - (>;!

„ bcldw 1st Fishing Lake - 69

„ proliable origin of - - 128

„ Lakes — Fishing Lakes, C'ronked Lake,

Koiind Lake 22, 33, 56, 57, 58

River

M
M

dimensions of

Bullalo Pound Hill Lake -

Sanil Hill Lake

Isl Fishing Lake

Crooked Lake - - -

Round Lake - - .

dimensions of

character of, above Fishing
Lakes - - -

source of -

reflection of - • -

origin of name

45
61
62
67
68
69
31
45

59
(•2
68
67

Qu'Appelle River, great length of -

„ Mission
Quill Lakes

Fig«

- 70

- 56

- 78

Rapid River - - - - - 40

Rapids of the Saskatchewan - - - 86

Rapid, Cross Lake • - - - 86

„ the Grand - - - - . 87
RatRivuletjdrains tlieAssiniiiboino during floods 33,80

„ importance of . - -81

Red River, mouth of - • • 94, 95

Refraction, wonderful efl'ects of ■ - 53

Reports ok Puooukss - . - 14 to 128

RkI'OUT, PllKLISIINARY • • - 35

„ Gknehal - • . • 46

„ Geoi.ooicai, - - . . 177

Ridge, the Big - - - 19,47,113,179

„ Pitching-track - - 106, 109, 180

„ in the Prairie . . . . 46

„ on the Qu'Appelle - - - 55

„ in till! Qu'Appelle Valley - . 62, 63

Ridges, east of the Lumpy Hill . - - 77

„ in the Valley of the Qu'Appelle - -129

Riding Mountain, Summit of - . • 107

„ forest on - . - 107

„ physical structure of - - 107

„ descent of - - - 108

„ ancient beaches and terraces

on - - - - 181

26, 105

ascent of

cliarncter of, south-west flank

steps of.

- 80

129, 181

River valleys, ancient - . .

RlVKUS —

„ I'enimwii, Cliiut of

„ of tlie Wiiinipeg Basin

„ Assinniboine, volume of water in

„ Sonris, or Mouse River

„ Qu'ApiKllo ...
Saskatchewan, Main .

„ „ South Branch .

.. „ North Bnineli

„ Rapid ....
Whit.. Mild .

., Siiuris . . - .

„ Red Deer's Head

„ (Jn'Appelle ...

„ Itivieri' Siile - - .

„ I'lit-aiin Creek ...

„ • l{ivei- that Turns' -

„ Rout or Carrot River .

,, "earing ...

„ War I'alli

„ Little Saskatchewan, or Dauphin

„ lied. Month of

„ •lack-tisli ...
I'arlridge Crop

„ Drunken ...

„ Water-hen ...

,, Moss - . . -

Valley - . -
Turtle
Rocks, grooved, seratelied and polished
Rocky Mountain Ranges

„ „ Passes ...

Root River . - - -37, 76, 84

Route across the Continent, riii the Qu'Appelle 31
Route, advantages of ... ;)4,35

- 15

- 37

- 38

- 39

- 37

- 40

- 40
49,50,51

- 52
54, 65

- 29

- 79

- 65

- 76

- 83

- iK)
91
94
98

I0-'
96
103
105
105
108
177
137

i;i7

Roses on the (Qu'Appelli.
Rum, debasing influence of
Salt-
Areas, on the Assinnihoine

59
102

Winnipego-sis and Manitobah Lakes 105

., extent of - - - - 105

Springs, on Winnipego-sis Lake - - 104

„ description of ... 104

list of - - - - 186

manufiict ired in New York State - - 186

trade of the United States - - - 187

•V

d 3

214

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

I age

Saady Hills of the Assinniboino - ■ Ul

„ oftheSouriH- - - -SI

„ of tlie Qu'Appcllo - - - 62

Sand Hills on the South Hrnnth - - 71,7?

„ »t the Moose Woodd, S.B. - - 72

„ near Fort Klllcc ■ - - 79

Sand Hills and Dunes - - - - 181

Saskatchewan —

South Branch - - 21,32, 36, (i2

„ dimcnxionH of - - 43

„ chflrncter of, nt the KIbow - 66

'. ,' „ embark in three fathom canoe

on • - - 66

„ rock on - . . 70

„ description of • - 70

„ mud tlnt!i and annd bars in - 71

-. , „ rocks forty mill's from the

Elbow • - -71

„ treeless banks, .10 to 60 miles

below the Elbow - - 72
„ drifted trees on - - 72

„ breadth of, 3H miles from

ICIbow - - - 72

„ at the Moose Woods- - 72

„ character of, near the Grand

Forks

North Branch

Main River

strong current of

„ fteneral ckM"\,ition of

.-teandpoat -oute up -
(liniinsion> of -
at Fori a !a Come
Imnk^ at Fori ii la Corne
licluw Koit ii la Corne -
clianicter of il> banks
., alluviiil Hats of -

„ obaraeterof, ne.ir Cninlierjand

land low about Cumberland -
„ below 'IVarini; Kiver, <'harac-

ler of
„ dinu'iisioii^ of

„ ihe Bi(j BcikI -

„ depth of, near the Knund Turn

„ character of country west of

the Pus, low and Hat
„ eouiitrv ln'twccu Marshy Lake

and Cedar Lake floodeil
at Muddy Lake
,, b, 'tween Muddy Lake and

Cedar Lake
,, rapids in, bi tween Cedar l^ake

and Lake Winnipeg;
„ Grand Uapid of the -

„ below the Grand Kapid

Seasons of the Valley of Lake Winnipeg
„ nt Ked River ...
„ on Main Saskatchewan, at Fort ii la
Corne - - . ■ -

„ „ „ ('unibi'riand House

„ ,. „ C'arlton House

Solcnite .....

Settee, Rev. .lanies . . . .

Settlement, areas Kt for ...

„ at the Moose Woods on the South

Brnncli ....
Shell Marl on the Souris . - . -

Shortslick ....

Shoal Lake ....

Silurian Series ....
Signs Mlalf-breed)
Snake Island, Fossils (d'
Simpson, Sir George ...

„ „ iissistance rendered by

Sioux (see also Indians) ...
,, bands of ...

„ language of - . .

Snow-berry ....
Snow at the Touchwood Hills

- 74
. 75

- 73

21,;i7

- 32

103

M2
83

M4
H4
S4
S4

- h:,

- H8

- Si)
. 137

1 .18, 144

141
142
144
70
57
41

- 72

- 19
63, 64
. 113
. 183
. 94
. 103

- 14
. 44
. 126

- 126

- 127

- 38
. 78

Page

auuris River, Little, character of • - 39

„ „ dimensions of Valley • 45

„ „ rocks of - . - 49

„ „ mouth of - - - 49

Souris Forks (on tho Qu'Appelle) - • 60

Souris Lakes . - • - - 52

Spy Hill 79

Stewart, Mr., courtesy of - - - 83

Stagg, Rev. Mr. - - - - - 102

St. Martin's Lake, character of - - - 101

„ „ islanils of - - - 101

„ „ boulder-barriers of • - 101

„ „ rocks of - - - 101

„ „ leading dimensions of - 101

Sterile country begins cast of the Luin|)y Hills - 77

Stony Mountain - - - - 46

Storms on Lake Winnipeg - - . 93

Sunmier, Indian .... 203

Supplies of the Expedition, weight of - - 11

„ ,. for the Prairie country 46

Surface features of country noticed - - 36

Swamp, between Riding Mountain and Lake

Manitobah - - - - - 27

Swan River - - - - - 23

Til

- 43

Tables-
shewing the dimensions of Valleys and

Rivers ...
shewing the h'ading dimensions of the
(Qu'Appelle Valley, and of the Lakes
which occupy it -
of the approximate number of cubic feel of
water passing down the south, north and
Main Saskatchewan
shewing' tin' lending dimensions and approxi.
male heigiit above the sea of the Lakes in
the basin of Lake Winnipeg
of the Great Canadian Lakes ...
shewing tli<' iiuinber of days on which
rain tell, with ibi' eharacter of llie thun-
ilei'slorni>, during the summer of 1858 .
of ilislances from Fort Garry to important

points in llnperl's Land . • .

of Explorations and Surveys of this Expe.

ditioii ... . .

of the (ieological Formations of Ni'brnska

Territoiy, as far a> <lelei'iiiiiieil, with their

extension into Rupert's Land

of Ihe Portages, fcc, on the Pigeon River

Route ..... 202

of Indian Suininer . - - . 203

of Magnetic Variations . 203,206,207

Temperatiiri', ditferenee of, between north and

South Branches of the Saskalchewai
Tent, Plain Cree

interior of, (•jibway
,, Swampy

Thunderstorms

„ list of -

„ terrilic

Timber —

on the Riding Mountain
on Ihe (ju'Appclle . - - •

on While .Mud River

east and west of the Souris, south of the
49lh paralh'l - - - ■

on Red Deer's Head River
on Pipr'-stone Creek ...

of Cross Woods . . . .

of Fishing Lakes ... .16,58

begins again on the Qu'Ap|icUe at Buflalo
Poun.l Mill Luke - ...

on (in'Appelle Valley near the Assinniboine
at the Moose Woods, on the South Branch -
near the Grand Forks of the Saskatchewan
on the Touchwood Hills ...
on the Rapid River and Riding Mountain -
on Ihe Whiti' Mud River
in the Valley of tho Maib Saskatchewan

114
114

136
I7(i
177

liX)

10!)

103

136

26,40
• 33
- 40

52
53
33
35

61
69
72
73
78
80
80
82

i ■

Page
39
4S
49
49
60
52
79
83
I - 102
101
I- 101
101
I- 101
I- 101
• 77
46
93
20)
14
46
36

27
23

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

215

Timber — cnnl.

r»g«

Winnipeg Lake, stormy character of

Page
89,93

on Main SasJcstchewan, below Moose Luke

„ west coast of

- 90

Fork ....

„ swamps in rear of beach

- 91

on Cedar Luke ...

„ rock exposures on -

- 91

at the Grand Rapid

„ fleet of canoes on

- 91

Touchwood Hilln - -

„ character of west coast

- 91

„ Plateau of .

„ character of country in rear

Trees, dimcnsionH of, on the Hiding Mountain .

106

coast .

- 92

Trenton Limcntono

185

„ oast coast of, at Dog's Head •

- 93

Turtle River ....

108

„ dangerous navigation of, in
fall of the year

Turtle Mountain . - - .

. »i

Two Creeks, on the AHsinniboine

„ south coast of .

. 95

Twilight How, description of

148

„ character of south.west coast
depth of.

. 95
. 97

Variations, Mii<rnulie - - - 205,

206, 207

„ east coast of

. 98

Valleys, ancient river

12<)

181

„ leading dimensions of
„ altitude above the sea

- 99

Water-course, ancient, of tlio Assinniboine

„ ancient boundaries of

- 46

Water-marks on (lie Assinniboine -

Winnipego.sis Lake

- 103

„ on the Souris

Wind, efl'ertsof, on the shallow lakes of the W

„ on Red Deer's llciul River -

nipeg basin ....

- 112

„ on llie banks of Kisliing Lakes

Winds, westerly, influence of .

- 134

„ on tbe Soiilli IJriiiicb

72. 74

„ prevailing ...

- 136

„ in tbe rriiirie on Carlton trail

1 1

Winter, approach of -

- 110

Water low in rivers west of tbe l.iike Snpt

rior

„ cold lit Red River

- 138

watershed ....

„ redd at Montreal

- 139

Wntkins. Uev. K. A. - - -

W(K)ds, Lake of the, country between it and Fort

Water-Hen Hiver - . -

103

(iiirry .....

. 29

Weed Ridge ....

„ belts of, on the Carlton trail

- 77

White Crimes . - - .

Wooded land, general iireii of -

- 39

\\ bite-Kish in I.oiij; Luke, large size of

„ country, diniiiiiilioii of

- 76

„ Wiiilir supply nf

IK)

„ land, cbariicler of. near llie Lumpy Hills 77

„ ini lortutwe of - - -

III

former extent of. on tlii' Soiitli lliiine

1 - 1 1

WiUow islnnc s -

!)5

limit of-

( (

Winni|K'i; River, thiiiKhT iiiid -now sl<iniis on -

WcKids hills ....

. 56

Winnipeg Luke ....

„ cape Kitchiiinshi

„ Gull-egg group of islands

8i(

Yarrow, abundant on tlui Qii'Appelle -

- 56

„ Indians on

i i

NOTE.

It being ileni nilih' tlmt the puhlicntion nf th in Ilciiort iti its pirsent form nhould not he delayed,
Cliiiplers nil •' MisMiiiiiiii'i/ EiitifjiriM'. in the North Went," " Winter Journey to St. Paid," '' The
J'onitioii, Chiirocter nnd Iiijlnenir of the Fur Triide," " The Clail-lronntone. Deposits in the
liiisin of Lake Winnipeg," together inth niudijses if mine.rids, a dcsvription of a Fish from
the Qu'ApfnUe Lukes, and other notices if diffennt subjects are neeessarily deferred for the
present. They vill make a short /SupplemAintary Rejiort. or appear in a se/iarate and independent
foi-m, us may hereafter he determined.

O d 4

•^ti^i

916

REPORTS OF THE ASSINNIBOINE AND

EXPLANATION OF PLATE L

OliTii()('i:n.\s Si.MPsoNi. (PiiBO 199.)
Fii/ure 1. — A frngmcnt of the sipliuiiclc of tliiH species.

AxoMiA Fi.KMiNi.i. (Page litfi.)
Figure* 2 attd 3. — Two different specimens of this speeies. The tino coneentric lines represent shading.

ls(iri.n.\Mrs ("axadknms. (Pn^o IDfi.)

/•V'/H/r 4.— I.rft \al\e.

Figure 5. — Kight valve. The finer emieentric lines rejiresent siiading. The small figure n4 shows the
fine striic seen on the outer fibrous layer of the shell magnified four times.

Avici;la MNGi'.CFORMis. (Page 190.)
Figure 6.— An imperfect specimen of this species. The lines represent shading.

Avici'i.A Nkiikascan'a.
Figure 7. — Two specimens of this species.

Leda Hindi. (Page 196.)

Figure 8. — Natural size.

I, 9. — The same enlarged.

if ;l

For Figure 10, see Mr. Meck's remarks, Plants, No. 2, page 195.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLOUINCJ EXPEDITION.

I'LATK I.

I-I.i. H.

l-hi. -J.

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lading.

ri.. !i.

Fiu. 4.

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21R

IIKPOHTS Ol' Tin: ASSINNIIIOINK AND

KXPLANATIOV OF PT.ATF 11.

\^T^lll^•lT^-. Hmivstovi. d'.iifc ]!)7.)

Fi,,i,rr 1.— Slilc view, ^howinij llit- ilccp iiinl.ilidi-. | /•'/-/ ^c '.'—I 'unit \i.«w <,f sinio spcrimon.

/■'iimri ;t,— Uiiitfvam ul due nl' die M'|ita.

1 ' I

,\>Mi(i\rrr^ nim\..M. d'.i-c liiN.)
/■\,,i,rr 4.— Si,|,. vi,.„. j /.•/,„„., ......Oii,. (,r th,. «,.|.l,i cnlniffi'd.

/•'it/lirr I': — l'|-,.llt \ir«' .■(■ .:nni' -|li'i ilniMI.

I I

St AriiiTi^ Nonooi-s f?] Tk.. (I'iii;i' liif.)

/•'iy/Dr 7.— side \ii'v(,

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■J'lw -])Ofimon fiftmcd f\\m\< llic n'iiiiiin>- ol' tun r.>w ni' tuKnclc. ,,ii ili,' (|,ii-iiin— (iiir ini rach side
I'lii'V nrc iMiich "iMii, ;iiiil li.i'.r ln'.'ii iiiiloiluiiii.lv "muIIimI ,illiiir,.||||.r l,y til,, ai-tisl.

N MTU !>. 1)1 1< \\i. I v,\ij,' i:is.)
/■Vywrc !•.— I'ldiil \ic». , /■';,/ii,, ln.— Sid.. \ic«.

SASKATCHEWAN EXPLORFNO EXl'l-JUn N

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