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 COAST ASD HARBOUR SURVEYS 
 
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 BAY 
 
 AND. STRAIT 
 
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 J. W. TYRRELL, C.E., P.L S. 
 
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 COAST AND HARBOUR SURVEYS 
 
 IN 
 
 HUDSON BAY AND STRAIT. 
 
 By 
 
 J. ^^r. tyi<i^ell, 
 
 Civil Engineer, Provincial Land Surveyor. 
 
 TORONTO ; 
 Ppintrd by C. Hlackett Rouixsox, 3 Jordan vSruKiiT. 
 
 1890. 
 
COAST AND HAkBOUR SURVEYS IN HUDSON 
 
 BAY AND STRAIT. 
 
 By J. W. TYRRELL, C E., P.L.S. 
 
 In this paper I propose briefly to present an account of the princi- 
 pal surveys performed, by the recent Hudson's Bay expedition — of 
 which the writer was a member — sent out under the command of 
 Lieutenant A. R. Gordon, by the Dominion Government during the 
 years 1884, 1885 and 1886. 
 
 Before taking up my subject proper, however, I think it will be 
 interesting just to note the names of some of the early explorers who 
 visited in years gone by the field of our observations. 
 
 Hudson Strait was first discovered in the year 151 7 by Sebastian 
 Cabot, who was sent out by Henry VHI. in charge of an expedition 
 to search for a north-west passage to India. In the year 1610 Henry 
 Hudson sailed in a barque called the Discovery, and re-discovered the 
 strait now called by his name, passed through it, keeping along the 
 south shore, and entered the bay, in the southern part ot which he 
 wintered. The next summer, becoming short of provisions, he had 
 trouble with his crew, who finally mutinied, and one night bound 
 Hudson, his son and seve*-al of his officers, and sent them adrift in an 
 open beat. At this time they were supposed to be near the west end 
 of the strait. The remainder of the crew, after undergoing great pri- 
 vations, reached home with the ship ; but nothing was ever afterwards 
 heard of the unfortunate navigator and his party. 
 
 In the year 1821 Captains Parry — afterwards Sir William E. Parry 
 — and Lyon, in command of H.M. ships i*'«n' and Hecla, conducted an 
 expedition into Hudson Strait and Bay, and obtained some valuable 
 information in the neighbourhood of the upper Savage Islands and 
 elsewhere ; and three years later Captain Lyon, in command of H.M. 
 S. Gripper, again visited the same waters. 
 
 In 1836 and '37 Captain G. I^ack, in command of H.M.S. Terror, S/ 
 also made a voyage of discovery into Hudson Strait and Bay, and 
 since the year 1847, when the ill-fated Franklin expedition was lost, 
 several other exploring parties have gone to that region, but few of 
 their searches extended into the fields of our labours. 
 
However, iiotwithstaiuliii;,' all these expeditions (besides the an- 
 nual voya<;es of the Hudson Hay ('onipany's ships, which have for 
 several cent".ries visited the shores of Hudson Strait and l>ay) it was 
 found a short time a^^o, wiien tin; (luestuju <n the practicability of 
 navif^'atinff Hudson Strait became a matter of discussion, that very 
 little reliable information of any value was available, and in order to 
 thoroughly look into the feasibility of the proposition to establish a 
 steamboat route between the Eastern world and our (Canadian North- 
 west, the Dominion Government thought it well to send out an expe- 
 dition to collect such information as might be required to determine 
 the question. 
 
 Accordingly, in 18S4 the steamer Ncptitiic, and in iS,S5 and '80 the 
 Alert, having been procured tor the work. Lieutenant (iordon, K.N., 
 under instructions from the Honourable Minister of Marine, pro- 
 ceeded to Hudson Strait to establish observing stations, and to col- 
 lect as much valuable information as possible. 
 
 Naturally, surveying formed an important part o{ the work of the 
 expedition, as it was very desirable to know something of tiie charac- 
 ter of the coast, and to locate aivl survey harbours wherever they 
 might be useful. 
 
 I have here a small map of Hudson Strait and Bay on which 1 
 have shown in red the portions of coast line added to the chart from 
 our surveys. 
 
 The principal places where work was done are as follows: — First, 
 at the entrance to the strait north of Cape Chidly, the Buttons, a 
 group of eleven or twelve islands were surveyed. This work was done 
 from the deck of the ship as she was steaming slowly past the islands, 
 upon the extremities of which rounds of compass bearings were taken 
 at intervals. .\s each round of liearings were taken, tlie reading of 
 the patent log was also noted, and the distances passed through the 
 water by the ship, as indicated by the log, were used as bases. As 
 these islands are situated not far from the cape, their positions rela- 
 tively to it were determmed by the same means, and near the cape on 
 the main land a series of observations were taken both to determine 
 the latitude and longitude. A snug little harbour which was called 
 Port Burwell was also discovered just inside the cape, and a sketch 
 survey made of it and soundings taken. A prolonged attempt was 
 made to discover a harbour along the coast of Resolution Island, 
 which forms the northern limit of the great gateway into the interior 
 of our country, but nothing in the shape of an inlet or bay fitted to 
 afford protection and an anchorage for a ship could be found. The 
 whole coast presents an unbroken front of solid rock, and towards the 
 interior of the island attains elevations of about one thousand feet. 
 
 On the south shore of the strait, near Cape Prince of Wales, a 
 fairly good harbour was discovered and called Stupart Bay, after the 
 first observer who was stationed there. Series of observations were 
 taken at this place to determine its geographical position ; the instru- 
 ments used for the observations being two Hadley sextants and six 
 chronometers, whose rates were compared daily with a standard. 
 Then, from Stupart Bay as a starting point, the writer with a small 
 
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 party was sent out in one of the ship's whale-boats to make a track 
 survey of the coast toward the south-'.ast. 
 
 IMiis was .icconiphshed, and about twenty miles of hitherto 
 unknown (, oast line; added with a fair dej,'ree of accuracy to the chart, 
 besides forty more determined approximately by ship's bearinj^s upon 
 prominent points. 
 
 Considerable difticulty was met with in carrying on this survey, for 
 the compass, whicii is very slu;^'tjish in all this rej^ion, was found 
 in some places to be of no use whatever on account of the occur- 
 rence of great masses of magnetite. As the only instruments fur- 
 nished me for making the survey were a boat's compass and patent 
 log, it seemed to me at first difficult to know how to proceed, but 
 bv adopting the principle of table surveying from points on the shore 
 when the compass was unreliable, 1 managed to get along fairly 
 well. Wherever tlu; compass worked satisfactorily, bearings were 
 taken from point to point along the shore, and the distance measured 
 with the log. 
 
 It is worth noting just hen: that, at a point about ten miles south 
 of Stupart iiay, four small iron cannon (one of which may now be 
 seen in this iiall) and a large anchor were discovered by Mr. Payne, 
 who was the observer situated at Stupart Bay. They were lying upon 
 tiie rocks, and some distance above high water mark. As appears 
 evident from the cannon now on exhibition here they must have been 
 lying there a great number of years. 
 
 There were no signs of buildings or other wreckage about, and it 
 is a matter of some curiosity to know where they came from ; but I 
 must not get too far from my subject. On the shore of Big Island, 
 near the nortii shore of the straits and directly opposite Stuparts 
 Bay, a large harbour was discovered and named Ashe Inlet, after Mr. 
 Asiie, D.L.vS., of Quebec, who was the observer placed in charge of a 
 station at this point the first year of the expedition. Considerable 
 track surveying was done at this place, during the winter of 1885-86, 
 by the writer. 
 
 Proceeding westward we come to Charles Island, which, as shown 
 on tiie chart, we found to be considerably out of place in longitude. 
 Observations were taken to correct its position, and, as we steamed* 
 along the north shore, bearings were taken to determine the general 
 shape of the coast line. The next place in order as we proceed west- 
 ward, where considerable work was done, is in the vicinity of the 
 Digs Islands and Cape Wolstenholm. Hete again, in the more west- 
 erly of the Digs Islands, an excellent harbour was found and chris- 
 tened Port Laperrier. 
 
 The position of this port was also carefully determineii, and the 
 track surveys which were afterwards made in the vicinity were tied 
 on to this fixed point. At one time, while Lieut. Gordon was taking 
 a series of observations. Doctor Bell, the scientist of the expedition, 
 and the writer, were sent out in a boat with t -o or three men to make a 
 traverse, or perhaps more properly called a running or track survey 
 of the islands. The shooting in this neighbourhood we had reason 
 to believe was very fair, but the instructions we received were not to 
 
6 
 
 take our rifles, as we would have no tiinn for sport. Oiu; of tin- party, 
 liowcvt'i, (lisol)L-yc'(l the roininaii(l(>r s (M'dcrs, ami, alon^,' with tlu' ri!st 
 of our oiitiit, siir.Jfigkid aboard our l»oat his l^c iniiij^loii rillc 
 
 A boat's compass, a prismatic and a patent lo^', were, as usual, our 
 survi^yinj,' instrunu'nts. and we pioc.eeded from point to point takinj,' 
 our be.'iriugs and mcasuriu},' tlie distance in the usual way. When 
 we hail traversed a short distance--not more th.in two miles— aloii},' 
 the north shore of the outer island, and wen- about to enter a little 
 rove in the shore, our attention was diverted by the api)earanc(.', a few 
 yards ahead of us, of two polars swimminf; in the wat(;r — a larj^'i; she 
 i)ear and her cub. They did not appear to take mucli notice of us 
 until we },'ot between them and tlu; shore, hoping to cut off their 
 escape by land. But thuigs did not seem to work that way, for the 
 old bear, seeing our move, headed for the boat and in a moment dis- 
 appeared below the water. 
 
 Our rifleman had taken up his position at the bow of the boat, 
 and the writer, having along with him a 38 cal. S. & VV. revolver, took 
 a position beside him and waited for the reajipearance' of the i)ear. 
 Presently she appeared, but at the stern of the l)oat, wlu^re the doctor 
 was seated steering, and immediately she procc;eded to climb in. We 
 in the bow dare not fire as two sailors and the doctor were standing 
 in front of us ; but some way or other, through the assistance of a 
 pike pole and the motion of the boat — for besides it being inider con- 
 siderable headway, the water at the time was very rough — we man- 
 aged to part with our new acquaintance. It was about here that the 
 track surveying proper came in. Several parting shots were firetl as 
 the bears were swimmmg ashore, and afterwards as we saw them disap- 
 pearing among the rocky hills, but on account of the roughness of the 
 water and the tossing of our boat they were without effect. About 
 fifteen minutes after leaving the site of the above encounter, we came 
 upon two other large male bears, and had a hard tight with them, in 
 which conflict, however, wl, were more successhil. These little inci- 
 dents, though not exactly coming under the head of surveying, were 
 some of the difficulties we had to overcome, and so I consider it quite 
 proper that they should be mentioned. If an\' of our friends here 
 should have occasion to make surveys in the same district, it would 
 be to their advantage to know what instruments would be found most 
 suited to that particular locality. 
 
 The traverse of the coast was continued for about seven miles, 
 when the eastern extremity of the outer island was reached, where a 
 line, deep, but narrow channel, was found to separate it from the 
 inner island. The shores were chiefly high, and in som ; places were 
 found perpendicular cliffs of rock standing up from Ave hundred to 
 one thousand feet out of the water. 
 
 At these places thousands of sea-fowls were see flying about and 
 resting on the ledges along the face of the cliffs, 'l ne birds were not 
 so numerous as to prevent us from getting clear sights from point to 
 point; but just here our progress was again interfered with by the 
 occurrence of local attraction in the shape of a herd of about thirty 
 walrus. We did some clearing here, but nothing very extensive, and 
 
then pushed on, p.issinf^ tlie eastern ciul of the islaiul and tlien turn- 
 in;,' sliipwaid aioii^f the south shore. 'IMu; rest ot (jur trip, extemhn^' 
 over about live or six miles, was eoniparatively phiin saihn;,s the only 
 obstacles met with bein;,' one small nerd of walrus and one more polar 
 bear. In some ri'spcets this eighteen or iwent}' miles of coast survey was 
 the most diflicull that I have had to deal with in my expencnee. 
 
 Just to the south of the Di^'s Islanils a K^'^np "f twenty-fhi' or 
 thirty small islands were also surveyed, antl the main shore tor a 
 distance of about twenty miles south-west of ('ape W olstenholm. 
 Near the south eastern extremity of Nottin},'ham Island a harbour 
 was discovered, and called Port De I?oucherville in honour of the 
 observer left in charf,'e of the station placed there. 
 
 The positions of the (jasti'rn coast of Mansell island and the 
 southern end of Southampton Islands were corrected in longitude. 
 
 A portion of Marble Island, in the north-west of the bay, was 
 surveyed, and its geographical position determined. Tl.en, arriv- 
 ing at the west coast of the bay, it was found according to 
 the chart to be half a degree out of position for about one hundred 
 miles south of ('ape lCs(phmo. The true position of tiiis coast 
 having been ascertained, we passed southward and arrived at Fort 
 Churcliill, a place, for various reasons, the most interesting yet spoken 
 of in connection with our voyage. For over two hundred years it has 
 been one of the most important trading posts of the Hudson Bay 
 Company. More than that, it was their chief stronghold against 
 invaders, being protected b} the massive stone fort Prince of Wales 
 until about the 5'ear 1775, when it was taken by the French admiral. 
 La Perouse, and tlestroyed. At the present time it is an important 
 trading station, and possesses the onl) harbour on the west coast of 
 Hudson Bay, and lastly it is destined to be the future: terminus of the 
 Hudson Bay railway, and the Liverpool of Manitoba and the North- 
 west Territories. 
 
 I have here a chart of this very excellent harbour, prepared from 
 an accurate survey made by Lieut. Gordon and myself. I will briefly 
 describe the methods adopted in performing this work. The first step 
 taken was to erect a number of signals or small beacons at prominent 
 points on both sides of the river and at intervals of about half a mile. 
 Then a level stretch of shore was chosen between two beacons (I and 
 H on chart) and the distance carefully measured; this distance was 
 used as a base line, and from the extremities of it sextant angles were 
 taken to the ottier points (with the exception of one or two, which 
 were fixed by taking angles from other more suitable points, which 
 had been fixed by the other sites). The shore line was then traversed 
 by the compass and fitted in between the points fixed by triangula- 
 tion. Having now obtained a correct plan of the shore line, the next 
 work was to get a plan of the bottom of the river. The diflficulty we 
 met with in performing this part of the work was, not to take the 
 soundings, but to locate them correctly ; for, on account of the ebb 
 and flow of the tides and the currents of the river, it was impossible 
 to keep any kind of a straight line with a boat. In getting over the 
 difficulty our beacons came into use again. At every cast of the lead, 
 
3 
 
 8 
 
 by the use of two sextants, double angles were taken simultaneously 
 from the centre of the boat to some three beacons on the shore, one 
 beacon always being conmion to the two angles. Thus every sound- 
 ing was an absolute hx, and was plotted upon the chart by means of 
 a station pointer. It was also necessary to note the time when each 
 sounding was taken, in order to be able to make the proper reduction 
 to low water, as at this place the rise and fall of the tide varies from 
 eight to sixteen feet. As may be seen by this plan, the area of water 
 in the harbour within a four-fathom line is approximatel}' half a 
 square mile, and with a very little dredging this area could be consid- 
 erably increased. 
 
 The mouth of the Nelson River was also surveyed in a somewiiat 
 similar manner, but not so completely, on account of the mucli greater 
 dimensions of the work — the river being fourteen miles wide at the 
 mouth — our limited time, and the less necessity for the survey. Suffi- 
 cient soundings were taken, however, to ascertain the liniits of the 
 channel of deepest water, and to give evidence of the impracticability 
 of making a harbour at York. The Alert was obliged to anchor ten 
 miles outside the mouth of the river altogether, wliere she was exposed 
 to the full sweep of the gales from the north-west, and one night ex- 
 perienced such a heavy sch that it was found necessary to let oil tanks 
 run to prevent the seas from breaking over her. 
 
 I had intended to give you an account of some track surveys made 
 during the winter season by myself, when travelling about the country 
 on a sled drawn by an Esquimo dog team ; but am afraid that I have 
 already taken up as much time and space as my subject will warrant 
 me in doing. 
 
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iinultaneousl}' 
 lie shore, one 
 every sound- 
 t by means of 
 ne when each 
 per reduction 
 le varies from 
 area of water 
 nately half a 
 iild be consid- 
 
 n a somewiiat 
 much greater 
 ss wide at the 
 5urvey. Sufli- 
 ' Hinits of the 
 practicabiHty 
 to anchor ten 
 e was exposed 
 one niglit ex- 
 ;o let oil tanks 
 
 surveys made 
 it the countr}' 
 id that I have 
 t will warrant 
 
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