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A \V ?« VOL I. .iiii M: M liONDOX: win r i' A K E H, r n k a c fi e u, \ c o. AVi; MARI\ I.ANP. 1 S32. (tev i i l.(»N HON M-iiimim:; .iikI Co., I'i iiiIj'ii, I, lioii-lnii llnin** Y.tnl. St. Taiils. L aaaari 1 MX MONTHS IN- AMKIUCA. Ill: ADiif, : % ' '""• ""^ '"^'«'' "i»"" you tl,,. ,K.„alry ol l"<'facv or (lr<lic-aiio,., Uvhu^ f„||y prrsuaclrd that }on ^vuu\d care for nc-ithcr; an.l tluMrforo if yon a,v dispose.! to f,>IIou- nu- to Anu-rica, I M-ill '"^^•n" yo„ at once., tl.at uh.r luivln^ schm, tin. ^•ivater part of K„n>p., I ^vcM.t on l.oanl tlu. I>acla.t, Cu.orov Cannino-, on tin- '2itU of Marcl., l-^-JI, and sailnl from I.ivorpool for N\.w V<,rk witl 1 luy notc'-Ijoolv, .sk(>tcli-l)ool lion i, i^un, and Hsh- i^M- rod alone, nnl,..uif,,l and nnln-vdiick-d a.s V<M.. I. B u M\ MnMlls a iiiaii (Minlit to tiavi'I, and wlfli flu' tlt'ti'rniina- tioii of l>('ill^^ iiN tar a> an Kn^li^innau eaii I )V nnprcjndii'tMl ; an<l of *ioi'in«^ all I could of tlic I'nitt'd States in tlu' space of ainrnt six montlis. llavini»- said this, I hi'o- of you to rcnu'inlu'r that I do not profess to tell you \\ hat may Ik» seen in a year. I nuiy he allowed to mention, that the (Jeor<;-e C'ainiin«( is one of the hest of the twiMity-six packets that sail from Liverpool to dilVerent parts of North America. Every i)os.sil)lo comfort an<l every rcasouahle luxury is {»t the command of the |)assen«i!^er ; and, whether lie he confined to his state-room from the effects of sea-sickness, or indulgin<^ a most Atlantic appetite, and (piatKnj^ champagne to the memory of Colund)us, he cannot fail at the end of his voyage to he loud in the praises of her excellent commander. Captain Allyn. We saw an ave- rage number of young whales, but contrived to I ^— "iti '*• AMI |;i, V. '"'^^ •'"■ '■'•"'"•'•"■^ ■■ '"■ -a-s..,-,,..,,, , .,,,1 „„„,, an ..vn.||..,„ pass,,.,. „r,„-..„,y.fl,r,.,.-,h„s„|„. '"•'"'" ''■■ '•"'•'•! '• a. this .„,„ ,■ „,„ """• '"•"'«■ ^'"'■'■'■ly — '■ l-ss ,l,„„ ,|,i,,v,, „... "'■''■■' ""■""-'' ""• ^■^"•'■""•s i"." -la. .,,|,.„.|i,, '"'• '"■ ^''■"- '^ "■''• ■'■!"■ pass,.-.. , , ,, "'""" "'^-- 'iaar„.,-s ,„■ ,, „„■,., ;„ „,. ,^,,^ ^,_^_| ■'"'■' '■> '"'"■ •"• Hv,. ,|,.„,| ,„•.,,„, .., ' I'lIM |,l'„|„|„,.,„ „|,j,,,., 1^ ,^ |.^_ ■^'"''"•'' ''"'■'' "'"•'■ a,. ,.. ,,-. „ .,, ""• ""•••'•• •■""' - -llnl |-„r, r,„ I.',,v..n... |...,„„... " «-'!'•'- H-r «,l,.,., i,. ,„„ ,.„r,|„-„ (;,,„.,,,!, "' "^ •"•">••■'' "" "■'• ^la.„.s ,„■ A„.,.n..,., i,,' '" "l'l"-'i"" r.. it, ,.•,,„,,,,.„,, ,,„„^.„„.^^^ 1*^ known l»\ r|,(. ,,,,... i/.. i. , i'onikiiis. "" ""■ '■""«■ '^l^""l l-a.l, is s,.,.„ NV„. n '2 -% h' i ! !,1 t l)rat('(i as tlio spot whcrL' tlio British troctps, iMulcr the coinnumd of Sir Ilcnrv Clinton, were landed witliont (►j)j)osition, previously to tlieir attack of New York in 177(). Xnnierous vessels of different sizes that had been detained outside hy contrary winds, were workini>- their way throuii'li the Narrows at the same time, and presented a most animating- spectacle. They ^\•ere from all parts of the Morld : the sun shone full upon their white sails; the broad bright pine-streak reddened beneath his declinin^• rays, and added a. characteristic elegance to the ap- pearance of the American shii)s, M'hich taken as a class, are certaiidy handsomer than those of any other nation. That the trim and figure of a British mcrchantm;in are usually inferior to those of America, is owing to the circumstance of there being no tonnage-duty in America; and therefore, their ships aie constructed for 'V \Mi:i!/(.\. }) for 'Ih' ..■,v,-,t>.st sp,.o,l : |,„r l,y the Ijntisi, nu'tl,,,,! "'' '■"'"- "»•"■ ^I'ips ^1 ni.Mvl,;.mn,an oa,, I,., cnstrncf,.,! .„ ,,s ,„ .any n„„v d,,,,, |,o,- l,.yal tminaov „i,l,„,„ |,,,i„j. ,■„,. ■^. ,,j. ^^.,^.^|^ ^^^^^^^ 15"ll UTy pr,.,,..rly (alu's a.lvanras.. I,y s»vlli„.- "iif liis s|,i,,s as luuc-l, as i„,ssil,l,., „, l„„ . ,„ |„, '•ail av„i,l ,1.0 Iia!,i|i,y „,■ |„,i„„, ^.,,^„.^.,.,| ^^^ ,^ liiyljcr rafc. N\V l.a.l soaivoly ..,m,v,l ,l,o |,ay ul,..,, H,,, "■in,l ,I,.„,,,K.,I : su.a,a-l,„ats „-,.,v ,,Iyi„. i„ all -l»ve.i„ns, a,„l one „f ,1,.,,, e,„„i„„. „,„„.,i,|,. j «as glad ,„ avail n.y.Wf of Ikt assistaneo, an,l '"■'•ivo,l at X<nv V,,,.,; |,,foro sunset. ^\-,•,|„•„ '"•" """"f"S aft..,- I |,ad la,„lo,l I foan.l „,ys,.l,- i» '1''^' lin,a.l„ay, the principal stroet an,l pn,- "■ona,U. in el.e city. At t»-« „VlocK- „„ every fi»o .lay, all tl,.. rashi.m an.l t,..,.g.aily ,|,,„,„| ''«"">■ "'■ N-ow V„rl< ar.. ,„ l,e seen tl,ere. It 10 SIX .MONTHS ': I- 1 f ( ' h contains the finest shops, and altotrothor lias a very lively and eity-like ajjpearance, which, nevertheless, suffers considerably on account of the houses heiu"- mostly built of red brick. Its width, I should !^ay, is about the same as that of Oxford-street ; in length it is, or rather will be when finished, about three miles. The courts of justice hold their sittings in tlie city- hall, a large and handsome building of Massa- chusetts white marble and brown free-stone, M-hich stands in the centre of what is called the Park, a green open space on the side of the Broadway. The prison, a gloomy-looking struc- ture, is too conspicuous, and exceedingly handy, being so near to it that a '"ponte <le 'i sospiri " might be thrown across from one to the other with great effect. But it is not in the contemi)lation of the most refined and mag- nificent works of art, that the 10urope;ni traveller 1 IN AMKKK \. II 'J» the rnitc-a States mu.t exi)oct to derive Iiis i'ni.cipal gratification. TJ.e public building-.s i„ NVw York for the different pur],oses of charity, ^■.l.icati,,,,, „n,l co,tt„,o,co, un- v»y nunu-rou.,; I'W there are none tl.at can lay elain, .„ I,i,s rarticnlar attention : in a feu- hours, with a little assistance IVon, a eahriolel or an onn,il,„s, I'e niijrht sec all that is worth his notice in the «t.v, considered merely as a collection of hnihl- i»K-s, containinj.- -iOO.ooo inhahitants. It is the extraordinary energy an.l urgency of connnerce that Hill chiefly attract his attention. The wharfs mi the North river are flanked l,y su,,erl. stea.n- hoats, daily and hourly employed in the convey- ance of thousands ; those on the East river, l,y 'l<'"l-lo aud triple lines of the most I.eautiful .nereha.itmen; while the three streets which run successively parallel ,„ ,l,cm ,„ij,.,„ ,,,, ,,.|^^,„ ^^,_. one enortnous warehouse. ,|,o paven.cnt hein- it \*2 SIX MoNI'Ils i nearly Mocked \\\) with iiurcliimdlse from every eomitrv, and exldhitiiij*- a rattliiiii: and somewhat (hniiL;erous confusion of carts and cranes, tliat is (jiiite l)eyon(l a "private gentleman's belief," till he has seen it. Although the actual numerical tonnage of the trade of New York is four times less than that of Liverpool, yet the {ij)pearance of huiritle and husini'ss is far more strikin*'' at New York : the reason is, that there is so much more retail trade carried on in the latter city than in Liverpool, or any other city in the M'orld. Innumerahle hoats descend the North river, laden with timber, or live and dead stock, and ju'ovisions for the markets of New York, and c.nrry back a petty and varied cargo of wearing apparel and other necessaries that arc wanted in the interior. Although Philadelphia is a larger i)lacc, the bahuice of trade between New York and that i ,? 1^ IN AMF.int.V. l;j firy is usually, if not always, in favour of N^v York-. Imported o-^ods sold at Pliiladolpliia, on account of the New York niercliants, are paid ^or in hills made paNahle at Phila(lelj)hia. The iKiidxS at New York discount these hills, whieh as they hecome due are .satisfied on demand hy payment in specie; so that there is a constant flow of hard dollars from Pldladelphia to Now \ ork. Ill order to see the city in perfection, the North river must ])e crossed, and a fine view is ohtained from any of the risin.r <rn)unds on the opposite hank. Hut to include a distant view ot* the city and the hay in the same drawin-v, I should re commc osite I a st atum oji 8taten Island, or on the opposite lieiohts ahout C On this head the liritisl jrowanus. 1 puhlic will soon I )e satisfied. Before I (piitted America, 1 was favoured \\ itl 1 a si^'ht of tl io most e.xact and f MIf 14 SIX MoNllls 1. I ii 1.1 I \ i a(lmirul)lo drawings to l)e usvd as materials tor tlio iio.xt view at tlie Colosseum in the lie«;ent's I*ark, whieli I aiiderstood was to he that of New York and its environs. It is sini»Milar that, as in London, thev should all have heen taken from the to]) of St. I'aul's church. Unless I were juixious to write either an almanack or a guide- book, I think I need not here say more about New York ; reservin«r for another place imy remarks that ap])ly generally to one city as well as .another. I will merely add, that I should strongly recommend every one to visit the Mu- seum before he conunences a tour ; and that the city contains two excellent theatres, of which that in the Park is the more fashionable : 1 heard the English version of the "Cenerentola" performed in very good style : I was delighted with the singing of our countrywoman, Mrs. Austin, and I lauirhed heartih i\\ the drolleries t^ f >' I IN A.MI.KK K. 15 <•/ Mr. Ilaekt'ff, nI,o is an unrivalkMl jnimif of tl.o (HToiitricifics of l,is comitrvnioii. An Italian inborn is c'onHdi'ntly t'Xjx'ctcd hy tlio next season. \t |>iTS(Mit the Hrst society in \ow \-ork, ^vJiieli i>^ very (>(,o(l, is seldom to he seen at the theatre. hi my io-iK.ranee. I was very nnieh astonished the first evening- I uent there, at seeiiii.- a mul- titude of persons, who would have tliouirht it a ^ross mistake not to have heen taken for gvntli'- mcn, sittin- occasionally in the front and almost always in the hack seats of the dress circle, with their hats on, in the presence of ladies, who were scattered in different parts of the same l»ox. Now, New York, if not the most refined, is certainly, strictly speaking, the most fashionable l)lace in the Union, and it is not to he wondered at, that foreigners who have just landed from Knrope and mIio very pr()l)al)ly go to the tlu^'.tr(> ^n the fnst evening of their arrival, should ^ 1#' fi 1(1 SIX MdSllls I tli(MiC'o imhllx' str,'iHi>;o .'iiul unjust ideas of flit' host Anicricau niauuors. I lia\o lu-anl tliat i-oni- inoii sense is tlie cliaraeteristic of the Ainerieans; and 1 think tliere is <rreat truth in tlu' remark; hut I (h> \U)\ like it when it is s^t nrt/ eoinnio n. Those repuhUean I)e Coureys are very fond of weariui^ their hats : 1 luncr was at clnu'eh in the United States, without ol)ser\ iiio' indivi(hials (I (h) not say many), wlio would evidently have heen very sorry to have heon thought ii'uilty of any im[)ropriety, putting,- their hats on wlien the service was over, in the very hody of the churcli. These are no trifles when considered as part of the national manners. But in the Ignited States there is no standard for manners: their })olitical independence is oftentimes imperccpt- ihly identified with independence of beliaviour that jn-ocures for intlividuals an unfavourahle opinion, of which the men and their minds are alik(> unworthy. I\ ^ MII.K \. 17 it u;is ll... fuvMly-fliinl „r AjM-il, SLdcoiov's •l^'V. mIi.'M I IrCt N\.u- York t„ n.iMi.u.iuv ...y tour; tlu' mnnluTs cf tlir Sr. iworu:r\ Siw'wty u-m'o,,i„o- to ,|i,H. t<»yvtlK'r,ai.(l rlu- In.ov ha.mcr of the saint Mas wavin<r fn)m one of tin. n|,ju.r ^vuu\o^vs of tlu- C'ity-liotcl, as I onuTov,! i'vom tlu' gloomy recTssos, in onornious c'stablisliini'iits yelcpcd sinM]o-l„,M(Ml rooms, and procciodrd to the MJiaif wJiciv tlu> Xru- Hrnusuick sti-anicrs are to he ionnd, and ul.crc it is coolly and most intfllioildy intimated to tlio traveller, in very large letters, that lie can have '^ Transportation to Philadelphia," at a very triflino- expense. These steam-boats are necessarily very lar-e- beino- fVequciitly destined to carry three or even ft>ur hundred passengers: they are constructc-d in the best manner for obtaining the greatest proportionate space and a free circulation of air. They may fairly be said to be three-deckers. fti- 18 SIX >fn\|iis :. h II ■Si ll! Tlic workini^-ln'jmi is iisiiiilly placed at a i^rcat lu'lj^lit above flic iippiT-dcfk, ami tlic wlioK* o\' tlu» oni»im' is s(> nuifli raised that no incoii- vcnii'iici' arises tVom tUc heat of the hoih'rs. Wli d'tl leii (Uie ot tlu'se steamers js seen a])|)roaelmii»* trom a distjinee, the contusion ot" i»reen and wiiite galleries gives it very much the ap])earance of a moving summer-lionse. The ra[)idity with which we moved across the hay procured mo a constant change of scene : the l)anks were (lotted with small villages, hut I observed hut few goii- tlomcn's seats. At a distance, on the right, stands the town of Newark, a considera])le place, 4liscernil)le by its white steeples. We })asse(l Perth Amboy at the mouth of the Uariton river ; the first British settlement in New Jersey. TJie governor's house, tlie picquet and guard- liouse, can be seeji from the y'ivvy. The go- vernor's house resembles a CHoucestershire spin- IV wn.iiu A. 1!) iiiiiH- mill. I u;iN hiiult'd ;it Nrw nniiiswicK, wlicro I IouikI couvi'vaiu'c^ MWJiiriiii*' tlic aniv.il of tin- .>tt'amt'r in onU-r to carry its |)assoiit»"t'rs across tin* country to liordciitowii. Notwith- standiiii*' that this road is one of tlic prin- cipal tlioronL»ldart»s hctwvi'n New York and Philadelphia, yet I was fairly .and (pncUly jolted into the conviction that althonj^h it was prohaMe I should trav(d over many that were as had, yet that I could not l)V any i)ossil)iIity find one that was worse. Allowances are to he made for the roads I afterwards saw, in the hjick settlements ; hut the condition of this one was really dis<rrace- ful. There was a ^reat deal of wood on every side ; but it can hardly he called forest, l)eini>- wliJit is here termed second-i^^rowth wood. A l>Teat part of these lan<ls had heen cleared hy the earlier settlers, but were allowed to remain uncultivated, and to be overgrown whenever a II I ■ ft I < I l' r k i- I I \ •JO SIX .M«>N'IICs ^(^il of i^rt'iittT trrfilifv iiiul sunicit'iifly protri'fiMl, was (liscovrrrd in tlir interior ol' flic ('(unitry. nonlcntown, is :i sni.'ill, l)iit \\v\\\ niul pretty, villai;*' on the l>aiil\> ol tlic Delaware. On the itskirt* I ratii outsku'ts is a larj^'e and rather n'ri't;ular hrieU l)iiil(lini»' at tlie extreniitv of a eourt-vard, wliieli is flanked l)y staMin^- and otiier oiitliouses, with cxtensivi» gardens and |»leasjn*o grounds lu'ldnd tliein, laid out a I'Anulais. This is the residence of the C'onnt Survilliers, l)etter known, in Kni^'land at least, as Jos(»|)li Huonaparte. I was providi'd with an introduetion to his Kxeelleney, and paid him a morning' visit. His reception of me was exeecdiniilv eonrteous. Tlie instant he appeared, J was most forcibly strnck with the very stronj^* resemblance he bore to tlie hiter portraits of \ai)oleon. His person, I slioidd say, was rather larger: the expression of the eye was the same, though more sululued; the same hair, the ^- IN .\\fr,itn \. •J I , was js tlie , the <<'«'f'i>v «:i.Mi'ralIy, with a .la.kcr nMMi.lr.xi.„N .-nMl .1 i^ood SH of fPHl,. I sl.ouM s.y, tlu. priiK-ipal • litVriviuM. was olHorvahlr in tl„. ni(H.f!,, ul,i,-l, M't'incl moiv incliiiahlr to the jocose than thr- ^.'u.jruinary. After souk, (..nversation, which w... c-an-icl nu in IVciich, and turned chirlly on the suhjcrt of Kuropean travel, his KxeeHeney showed me his pietines, which are nunier(,us and intiM-estiiiii-. He has several fine Min-illos, and a most heautitnl Ma^h.nna l.y X'andyke. II,. lias many portraits of his ou ., faniily ; amon^- those is one of Najmleon in his coronation rohes, and the well-known picture of the I-irst Consul on horsohaek, crossino- the Alps. I felt an emotion which I will not attempt to deserihe, when, as we passed round the room, he paused l)efor(> the latter picture, and drew my attention to it, remarl vniii that it was the original, by David, 'i^he cal ai)ni( t VOL. F. S*^ J I II w M illi 2*2 SIX MONTHS of statues and mosaics is also very fine, and the collection altoj^etlier hy far the best in America. His Excellency occasionally mixes in society both at New York and Philadelphia, and talks without reserve of his former situation, " Quand j' etais roi d' Espagne." " Dans mes belles affaires," are occasionally introduced in his con- versation. By his advice I subsequently mounted the observatory in his g-rounds. Thence I en- joyed a very fine view of the country on the opposite side of the Delaware, whose broad and rapid stream was flowing beneath me; on the left, the river seemed to lose itself among the distant woods of Pennsylvania; on the right, at a distance of al)out six miles, is Trenton, made notorious by the daring passage of the Delaware, and tlie subsequent defeat and cap- ture, of a body of Hessians, by General Wash- ington, on the night of the 25th of December, » >"■' AMI-HICA. 2.3 1776, c\n,-w.^ a vi„lo„t stonn, an,l uIkm, ,|,e Han.^or of tl,o rov<,l„ti„„i*ts wns at its crisis. BonlontowM is al.out twenty-six miles from tl'at city i„ a stoam-boat, „l,icl, stopped for passengvrs at every eo„si,leral,le ,illa,^e .,„ the well.,vo.,ae,l, l,„t flat and uninteresti,,., ba,,,,, of the river. At length l>l,ila,l,.lphia makes its appearance, stretching for nearly three miles "long the western si.Ie of „ l,e„,I „ „„^.|,. „f • the river. This vieu- is certainly a fine^ne, bat it «-o„l,l 1,0 mnel, i„,prove,l l.y the appear- ance of a f,.w more steeples or lofty strnetares. From the water two or tln-ee only are visible above this immense assemblage of red hoases; an,l yet the city contains nine episcopal chnrches, a great number of pnblic bnildings, and charit- able institutions without end. Oreat attention is ,,ai,l ,o the e.lneation of I. -2 24 SIX MONTirr. ft: |f V, . 1^ '! ^ i ;■ I ; tlic poorer classes : tlie constitution of Pennsyl- vania (leclariii*^, " That the legislature shall, .is soon as convenient, provide by law for the establishment of schools, in such manner that the poor may be educated without ex])ense." Philadelphia has been often described. The streets cross each other at right angles : those running parallel with the river arc numbered, second, third, fourth, ike; the others usually bear the name of some fruit or tree. The word street is usually omitted : in describing the way, a person would tell you that the place you were looking for was in Walnut, below fifth ; Sassafras, above second; Mulberry, between seventh and eighth, &c. These streets run over a distance of two miles, from the Delaware to the Schuyllkill river, which enters the Delaware about nine miles to the south of Philadelphia. The Bank of Pennsylvania is a small building, I :l m I IN' A.MtllK A. :>:> I ^ut ek'irantly dosi-nccl from the Temi)le of the INIuyes, on the Ilyssus, near Athens. TJie new Mint of the United States was •Mifinished, l,ut promised to be a cJiaste and beautiful building, on a larger scale, from the same model. On the 4th of July, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was signed, and afterwards read from the steps of the State- house, where the state courts of justice are now held. The room in which this took place had been fitted up for La Fayette in 1824, as the iiiost appropriate place for levee tenure; but vv hen I saw it, it was occupied by u orkmen, who iiad instructions to replace every thing as it was when it acquired its present reputation. llie Academy of Fine Arts much exceeded my expectations. Although the .iiost conspi- cuous pictures were those of American academL- ^■iaiis, u't Ju're and dieiv ih. eye was attracted ■■■n . "1 I -f i il .1 t'li fit I; I'l i 1; 26 SIX .MONTHS by a X'andyko, a Rubens, a Ciuerciuo, and a Salvator Rosa, or some good copies from them. There were a tew kuidscapes by Ruysdael, and a fine Murillo : the subject was tlie Roman daughter. The productions from the Englisli school, were portraits of Jolm H. Powell, Esq. by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of John Kemble by Sir M. A. Shee, and another of Dugald Stuart by Sir H. Raeburn. Any person conversant with the pictures of this latter artist, would have recognised this, ]>y the usual green colouring in the back-ground. There were fi^ e admiral)le portraits by ^Ir. Stewart, tlie American artist, of the Presidents Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, and ^lonroe. The best full-length portrait of \\'ashington is that in the Fauneuil Hall at Boston ; but as a half-length this is, I believe, considered the original. They were all remarkable tor their easy and unsophisticated ,:l :<^' y iN AMEKILA. 127 attitudes. Mr. Stewart has been dead about five years. Mr. Ilardiii^re has also very great merit as a portrait painter; but Mr. Sully has the reputation of ])ei]io. the first in Anieriea. A portrait of Sir Thomas Lawrence, by that <>en- tleman, is a most successful imitation of tlie ■style of the late i)resident. He exhibited also an excellent full-leno-th j.ortrait of General La Fayette; and Mr. Tuman, a scarcely inferior artist, is at present employed in painting an- other, of Mr. Penn, which will occupy a place beside the (General in the Hall of Independence. I also observed a eomi)osition.landscape, by Mr. Fisher, which had very great merit. It was well remarked in the preface to the catalogue, that so many of the pictures did not need indulgence, in comparison with that which had lieretofore been cheerfully, and with justice, coiiceded to tl«em. This was very true of a large proportion it h\ I 1 1) iH r ,1 I :Hi m ' '2S SIX MONTHS ol' them, but sonic lu vcrthcloss, needed if not a little ; and in fact had no business there. It is a j)ity that the Americans do not take vvarnin (r by the constant outcry that for so many years has been justly raised against the swarm of ])ortraits that dly cluster til alls of liat annually cluster on tlio walls Somerset-house. They might well devote more of their time and talent to historical paiiiting. With the exception of the " Sortie from Gib- raltar," by Colonel Tnnnbull, and another very indirtereiit })icture, there were, 1 think, no his- torical pieces in the room appropriated to modern events. The Americans cannot plead a want of subjects : the revolution is not half illustrated ; besides, they may depend upon it, portrait painting- is a very aristocratical thing- after «all, and shouhl not be trenerally encou- raged, on that account. In riuming over the walls of a modern e\hibiti(>n-n;«>in, the v\c is ^ f IN AMEUUA. •>*J tati^iK'd l)y its oiulcavoiiis to avoid an t'lieountoi' u ith the foaturos of iiulividiuils in a new clia- ractcr, to which many of tlieni never had the hlii^htest pretensions, except npon canvass. 'J1je water-works on the Schuyllkill are pro- bably the finest in the worhl : they can scarcely be praised too iiighly for beauty of design, simplicity of construction, and real usefulness. A dam, sixteen hundred feet in leniith, is thrown across the river, by which the stream is backed up for several miles, and an enormous water-i)ower thus created, l^he solid rock has been excavated, in order to obtain what is termed a race; and by means of huge double- forcing pumps, worked by four immense wheels, the water is thrown up into an ample reservoir, fifty-six feet above the highest ground in the city. It is calculated that each wheel and pum{) could raise one miilion two inindred and fifty f r I if ji! 30 fclX MUNTHS thousand yallons in hventv-foiir hours, if allowed to phiy without intermission. Tlie rising ground in tlie neighl)ourlioo{l of the water-works affords the best and neju'est general view of the city. Thence I visited the botanical gardens of ]\Ir. Pratt, containing a very fine orangery and a choice collection of exotics, and delightfully situated on the east side of the Sehuyllkill, which spreads out to a great extent immediately be- neath them, with banks wooded to the water's edge. In a very few years this fine scene is destined to be ' iiiiatin*ed. By this time a rail- road is commenced, which will run from Phila- delphia to Columbia, a distance of eighty-two miles : it will there join the great Pennsyl- vanian canal, which has been finished nearl)' all the way from the eastern side of the Alleghany mountains. In order to pass these, a rail-road on inclined planes, will be constructed ; by I ■^ IN A.MLKICA. 81 I which the rich iiiiiieia. productions on the western slope of the niouniains, consistino- cliiefly of iron and l)itnniinous c(>ai of the finest quality, will he (piiekly forwarded to Philadel- phia in any cpiantity. The greatest height of the Alleghany nioinitains in IVnnsvlvania, is thirteen hundred feet. The rail-road I have mentioned, will pa.^s at a short distance from the water-works; and therefore, in all prohability, no very long- period will elai)se before the vicinity will become a coal-\ard. The porcelain manufactory is not far off. I was told that the material was little inferior to that of Sevres, but I found the painting indifferent. French China is still preferred, and superiority cannot yet be expected in this department. In my way l»ack to the city, I visited the IVnitendary of Pennsylvania. This is the most Il- 'fll 1 W: lii; ill. i1. II 11 Ri' a-i SIX MONIUS exteiisivi' Imildinir in the United IStates. The front is 070 feet in ien<^th — very haiKlsoine, ami heariii*^ a Uaronial and gloomy jippearance, in tlie style of our ohl English castles. Its area is a square, with a tower at each angle of tin; prison wall. It is intended that eiji^ht corridors •should radiate from an observatory in the centre of the area, but oidy three are in use at pre- sent. These contain the ceils, a!id command a free circulation of air, and a plentiful supply of water. The only punishment adopted, is solitary confinement, lliis Penitentiary is too youni»- an establishment to afford a perfect con- lidence in the opinions of those who are favour- able to its system. The reports of the inspectors are, however, extremely encouraging. The first and present warder (Mr. Samuel II. Wood) was only aj)pointed in Jiine 18'29. This gentle- man, who is well known as u kind of second f ^« I ,r !N' v*it nn\. til) I llouanl ill his \v;iy, li;is visited iiimii^ nt v f |,riii cijmi |.ris«.n,s in Kuropc; and now Hiids i-inj.h)). mciit tor liis talents and his liiiniaiiity in, I Ix'licvc, his native eity. Kveiy crime e<»niinifted in the state of Pennsylvania, on this side of the Allejrliany nionniains. that is punishahie hy ini- l)risoninent at all for the snacv of one year or more, is to he evpiated hy solitary confinement within this IVnitentiary. That at Pittslmr^r, o,, the Ohio, receives those whose crimes are committed on the western side of the Alieirhany. Every prisoner is allowed to work at his trade ; or if he have none, or one that he cannot follow in his cell, he is allowed to choose (me, and is instructed hy one of the overseers, who are all masters of diFrrent trades. Mr. Wood, in his last report, gives it as his opinion, that a prisoner who has two years or u]nvards to remain in prison, can. in his solitary cell, earn sufficient to clear all his urn m !'l i l>! '. i!i ii.i 04 MX Mosriis rxpi'iisos from his admission till his discharj^c. The IMiiljMh'Iphia svsti'in (lifTiTs from tliat at Sinj^-siiijr, in thf state (»f New \'orI\. At Sin«r- sinjTj tiic prisoners are l)rou<^ht ont to vvoric toi^ether, hut are not allowed to speak to each >th \'k to otiier. At rhiladelpliia tliev never work toji^'e- ther; and from the time of his admission, one jirisoner never sees, or speaks witli, another. My Kng-lish ideas were not a little startled at first, when I found that high treason is oxpiahle hy solitary confinement for not less than three, nor more than six years ; and that the punishment for the second offence was solitary confinement for ten years. Treason ao;ainst the state of Penn- sylvania is here alluded to. By the articles of the constitution, treason against the United States shall consist only in levying- war against them ; or in adhering to their enemies, giving them aid and comfort. Xo person shall be convicted of '»9 r IV A^r!.FM( A. 35 at treason unless on the ttsflinony of rw„ ^vhuvss^>H to tlu' .same ovcrr art, or on coiifi'ssioM in ojumi court. CouMivss sliall have po^vr to drt-laiv tho imuisliuKMit of trojisiui, l)ut ii(» attaiudrr of tivaso,.. shall work con'U])tioM of I.I.mmI (.r forfcituns c-xcvpt (luriuo- tho iifr of tlu. luMsou attainted. Treason ao-ainst tlio Tnitcd States Is a capital offcncv. Murder, in the scmnd deoivis that is, murder committed in a sudden quarrel, hut with- <M.t malice prepense, is punlsJuMl l,y solitary conHnement at lahour for three, and not more than six years; for the second offence, for a I>criod not exceedii.jr ten years, l^u. punishment for buro-lary is solitary cmifinement for not less than tu-o, nor more than ten years; for the second offence, for a i)erio(l not exceedino- fifteen years. For rohbery, or being accessory thereto before the fact, the period is for not less than one, nor more than .oveu years; for the second offence, for a I i ( is J K ii! V!i > ii 11 ; n \i m SIX MONTHS ])(Mi<»(! not oxcoodinir tAvolvo years. Maylioni, ki(lii;j|i})iiig, liorsesU'aliiig-, perjury, ike. are all punished l)y solitary confinement for different periods. Almost every species of forgery, or aidin*^, abetting, or commanding tlie perpetration of a forgery, wlietlier it he of the coin of the state, or have reference to the sale, utterance, or deli- very, or liaving in possession the metallic i)late used in the forging of any note of any bank incor- porated in the state of Pennsylvania; or forging, defacing, corrupting, or embezzling any charters, gifts, grants, bonds, bills, wills, conveyances, or contracts; or defacing, or falsifying any enrol- ment, registry, or record; or forging any entry of the acknowledgment, certificate, or endorse- ment, whereby the freehold or inheritance of any person or persons may be charged; or of counterfeiting the hand or seal of anotlier with intent to defraud; or the privy or great seal of I IN AM E UK A. ■M tlic State of Pennsylvania, is punished with solitary confinement for a period of not less than one, nor more than seven years ; and for the second offence, for a period not exceeding ten years. It is expected that hw offenders will run the risk of solitary confinement for a second time. Wlien first received, the prisoner is left alone, and it seldom happens that he does not ash for a Bible, and work, after the lapse of a kw hours. A Bible and a few other religious books are allowed him. In a few days the with- drawal of his employment is felt, and adopted as a punishment, with the most obstinate and hardened. The chaplain occasionally visits the prisoners, and on Sundays he takes a station whence the words of prayer and exhortation can be heard by every prisoner in his cell, as they echo along- the vaulted roof of the corridor. VOL. 1. U i- if 1" rj I ■«! ■I- *^ \ lit ) I' il ,1^ \ I'I'i 38 SIX MONTHS If any punishment can he said to be dig- nified, that of solitary confinement has a chum to that epithet. Justice to society is nobly done, not only in the removal of the prisoner in the first instance, but, secondly, by enabliuj^ him to return, as it were, to the world, a wiser and a better man. The end of solitary confinement is the reformation of the criminal, by obliging him to think who never thought before. If reflection can be awakened, and conscience can obtain a hearing, its advantages will be readily acknowledged. The prisoner is forced to commune with his own soul : the all- powerful voice of ridicule is absent and unheard; remorse is not stifled, and penitence is not put to flight, by the sneers of a dissolute companion : with no one to admire, and applaud his resolu- tion to be "game" — ^to submit, is the only alternative. I I! IN' AMF,1?KA. .')f) 111 EiiirlaiKl tlio system could not, ^oin'rully, I think, succeed. The effect of solitary confine- ment nn'jrht he the same on the moral character of the prisoner, hut unless somethin<r like a per- manent means of getting- a livelihood he secured to him, after his removal from the prison, the principal and hest ohject of the punishment would not be obtained. This would be ex- tremely difficult in a country of small extent, with a superabundant population, and a supply of labour far exceeding- the demand. The regenerated ofl'ender might, perhaps, contrive to avoid observation ; but if necessity compelled him to labour for Ids subsistence, it is probable that he would not find employment; and the necessary consequence would be, that all his good resolutions would vanish at the {ii)proacli of want. No country is so u^ell adapted for the expe- I' ! m r:!i 1' '1'' «ii'i I rti. I ;i i ■ •' i i 40 SIX MONTHS riinont as tlio United States of America. Kn- ter])rise is abroad in every direction, cind labour is well paid. When the period of confinement is at an end, the criminal may wander to any corner of that vast continent, — and go where he will, the wages of industry are always at his command. He is in little fear of being recog- nised by his fellow-prisoners, because no pri- soner is allowed to see another. His former associates in crime are dispersed, or in prison, or in the grave ; and the liope that attended him in his cell is realised, by the facility of gaining a new character, and friends who are ignorant of his crime. It should be added to this notice of the Penitentiary, that every <;ell opens into a small paved court-yard, in which the prisoner can take exercise; and that the system has not been found prejudicial to healtli of mind or body, as had been anticipated. 4 ^w IN AMERICA. 41 I visited the Museum at Philadelphia, whieh is said to be the best in the United States. It contains a skeleton of the mammoth ; a fine collection of Indian curiosities and American animals: the most extraordinary of these is, perhaps, a specimen of the gigantic raya or ray, or devil-fish, measuring twelve feet in length, by fifteen in breadth; and weighing more than '2000 lbs. In the gallery are arranged a number of portraits, chiefly of distinguished Americans, which are said to be admirable likenesses ; but certainly not valuable as paintings. I was much better pleased altogether with the museum belonging to the Academy of Natural Sciences. It is much smaller than the other, but fUr more scientifically arranged. The Dock-yard at Philadelphia contained, wlien I visited it, a sixty-gun frigate, nearly finished; and the Pennsylvania, a four decker, m i ::\ I: ll! !• N il'i i ! i ': ;iii 11 4-J SIX MONTHS with a round stern, also in an nntinished state, and destined to carry one hundred and forty-four jruns. This enormous vessel is two liundred and twenty feet in lengtli, and fifty-eight across the main-l)eam. Her timbers seemed light, in proportion to her immense size ; they certainly do not appear to be thicker than those of an ordinary British seventy-four. The great strength of the knees, however, are said to compensate for the apparent weakness of her other timbers. There were no workmen em- ployed upon her, and saltpetre was strewed over her wherever it woidd lie. She is larger than the old Saiitissima Trinidad, destroyed at Trafalgar ; but not so large as a Turkish ship of the line, launched, I believe, since the battle of Navarino. All the guns of the Pennsylvania will ho thirty-two -pound carronades on the spar-deck, and long guns on the others. Her f JN' AMi:i{I(A. l.'3 anchor wei^r|,s more than n,()()() Ihs. With snch a trt'nu'n(h)us weioht of metal, it is prohahio that she woiihl not he ahle to stand the wear and tear of tlie lomj; hh)eka(h\s in wlncli many of our ships were empk)ye(l durinir the war. TJie timber of the live-oak, so called from its being an evergreen, is supposed to ])e impe- rishable. This tree grows almost e.vclusively in the Southern States; but is ajniually be- coming more scarce and valuable, as thi3 extreme slowness: of its growth cannot keep pace with the demand: the Americans will probably find themselves obliged to plant it, before another quarter of a century has elapsed. The following treatment of the diifereiit kinds of timber used in the American navy is recommended in the report of the Secretary of the Navy for 18-29. Live-oak should be immersed for twelve months in water, then ^ m ■V , ,^1 i ill 111 ..- SI' ill 44 SIX .MONTHS taken up and placjcl under cover to protect it against sun, rain, and liigli winds. Its im- mersion is recommended by the fact tluit it renders it less liable to split. White-oak which is inferior to the British white, or navy-oak, should be docked about eighteen months in fresh, or two years in salt water ; then taken up and sawed into such sizes as may be required, then placed under cover for about two or three years. Yellow pine should be docked about twelve months ; then taken up, sawed, and covered for two years. Mast timber should be immersed and covered in mud till wanted for use. All timber ought to be cut when the greatest portion of sap is in circulation, at some time from the first of November to the end of February ; it should then be immersed in water, and never taken out but early in the spring: and it was given as an opinion, that IN A.Mi:i{|(.\. 45 if all tiiuhcr uiKli'rwont tins process, the ships mio-ht last double the time they otherwise would. I went to hoth the |)rinci])al theatres, hut did not think that either they or the perform- ances were as good as at New York. I saw Mr. Cooper, the famed American actor, in some old play, of which I forget the name. His voice is extremely good : I remember that Ithouifht liim dignified, but rather stiff, without however being the least awkward in his actino-. J also saw }oung Hurke, as Doctor Pangloss. His acting I thouglit achnirable, and most humour- ous ; and his violin playing is quite extraor- dinary for his age. His tragedy is very little inferior to his comedy. rhe United States' bank at Philadelphia is a beautiful Iniilding, being a copy from the Parthe- 'K' ,' 46 SIX .MONTHS \V: noil, with such ahoratioiis as vvoro al)s<>liit(.'ly iiulisj)t'iisal)lc' in ohUt to ivndcr it fit for j)ur- ])OSCS ►fl or Diisiiioss. Itl las no sK lo col umns hnttl ic 1 )ortico is asi)k'ndi(l II of the Doric. The I ^ ecimen onic j)ilhirs in tlic interior, wore hron<^ht from Italy. The j)rescnt United States' hank, was incorporated hy Act of Conj^rcss on the 1 0th of Ai)ril, 1810, and is chartered till the M of March, 18*36. It i)aid a bonus to Government of l,r)()0,()0() dollars. Its capital is 35,000,000 dollars, divided into 350,000 shares of 100 dol- hu's each; 70,000 shares were subscribed by government, which therefore became a proprietor of one fifth. After a thorough investigation of the right of Congress to pass an act of incorpo- ration, this bank was first called into existence in the year 1791, when General Washington was president; and its charter expired in the year 1811. The two opposing parties of Federalist -— — «» •^^:i.mr*aBma^mar^' IN AMKIJKA. and Democrat had in crtect ln'u'aii to show tlicni- M'lvc'S, thoimh not cxactlv l>v those names, in 1787. In 17J)(), Mr. Hamilton, the secretarv of tlie trejisury, ma(k' his ceh'hrated report on the state of tlie j)nl)lie dehts contracted (hiring- the revolutionary war. He proposed that the (U'hts of tlie continentjd Conu^ress and those incurred hy the St;iles individually, should he fundod by the general o-ovenunent, and that the interest shouhl l)e paid hy taxes on articles of luxury and (ui ardent spirits. This, it was thought, wouhl give too much i)o\ver to the Federal government, in opposition to the rights of the States se])arately considered ; and it was on account of their con- flicting opinions respecting this federal measure, that the two parties who supported or opposed the new constitution, first acquired the names of 1 'ederalist and Democrat. Their first differences under tliese appellations, were on the hank ques- :y^ i i 11 ■ I' t |! 1> ,('• w 111' 15 48 SIX .MONTHS tioM, w'liicli affcrwards hecaino, and is now to a cortain I'xtont, a tost oF political principle. Its cstablislnncnt had hocn oppostMl on constitutional grounds by Mr. Jefferson and Mr. Madison ; by the former in the executive cabinet, and by the latter in conj^ress, and both distinguished Demo- crats. It wjis asserted that congress had no |)ower to create corporations. The Federalist was in favour of a liberal construction of the articles of the constitution, and an extension of the powers thereby vested in the federal assembly or congress of the United States, in opposition to what are termed state rights, or powers claimed separately by the states in their individual capacity. The federalist was said to be friendly to Great Britain, and to be indifferent to the principles of the French revolution. He was in favour of the Alien law, by which the president was enabled to compel IN A^rrint A. 4}» suspocfod fon'lirnor<* to loavo tlip coimtry : and «)f tilt' StHlition law, wliicli j)r()vi(l(Ml tor tin* prosecution and puiiislimcnt of false and ma- licious accusations au^Jiiiist tlic president and inend)ers of congress. In fact, these measures were ))assed bv compress durint»- the adminis- tration of John Adams, who succeeded (leneral Washington, and was the second and last of the federal party elected to the office of president. The democrat regarded the princi- ples of the federalist as far too aristocratical for the atmosphere of America. He was a strict interpreter of the articles of the constitu- tion, and kept a careful watch, lest the federal government, in its united cajxicity, should usurp any powers which he considered as the rights and i)rivileges of individual states. Uiuler the overwhelming influence of the democrat principles, which have been on the increase ':> ■' t. J) I 1(1 I ^ ■'1 ' i m 'i\'' t|i IS '"i If I!' 50 SIX .MONTHS more and more from the first }ear of Mr. Jefferson's presidency, tlie federalist p'Uty liave exjierienced a great decrease in nnml)er, and their principles have lost mnch of their rigidity. In fact, the two parties may be said to be nearly extinct, even in name ; the terms Federalist and Democrat being rarely mentioned now. The federalist was always the enemy of nniversal snffrage. He was for im})osing a sid)stantial qualification on every voter; on the principle that property, and not persons, should be represented. In Pennsylvania for instance, the right of suffrage is possessed by every free- man of the age of "'venty-one years, who has resided in the state for two years next preced- ing, and M^ho within that time, has paid a state or county tax, assessed at least six months before the election: and a poll tax of fifty cents. i)er annum, confers this right upon individuals who I\ AMF.KKA. rii aro not in circumstanees to i)av any other. Tliat corruption to a ^reat extent is generated by this system, is admitted on all hands ; it is obviously a matter of course that it should he so. Even in democratic Americji there are to he found thousands who readily acknowledge the real causes of their prosperity to he iden- tified with those that have prevented this sjston from fignring in its real colours ; and who freely admit that it proceeds from a comj)arative exemption from taxes; an unbonnded extent of country; an admirable spirit of enterprise; a population not too hirge, aiul a consequent al)un(lance of employment — not from the exist- ence of a peculiar political system. Hut to return to the subject of the United States' bank. When Mr. Jefferson and the democrats came into power, the renewal of the bank charter was discussed as a party question. '«>'. f. ( ■Jf -'if I I I I !''■ .11. liir I'll I 'I'l ?:li 52 SIX MONTHS At this period excitement was at its heii^lit ; and the federalists made tliemselves so con- spicuous by their indiscriminating opposition to those measures of commercial restriction adopted by the democrats in power, against Great Britain, in compliance with the policy of the new French government, that they were considered by a large proportion of the Ameri- can nation, as the apologists for the conduct of a country already regarded in the light of a public enemy. Yet such was the general opinion of the good that had been diffused throughout the Union by the l)ank, that the question of the renewal of its charter, was only lost by the casting vote of the president of the senate, and by one vote in the house of representatives. In less than three years after the expiration of the charter in 1811, the war with Great Britain having taken place i^' AMIillrcA. .).! i" tl'o moan time, ,l,o finnneos woro i„ ,, stat.. of inemlil,|cM.,„l,arrass>no,U; a,„l tl.o r.M.stal.li.sl,- n-ont of tl,o l-„ito,l SmtcV l.ank roco.nn.oM.I..,! by Mr. Dallas, who u-as then secretary to the treasury, received the sanction of Mr. Ma.lison ; and the ineasuro passed hoth branches of con- gress during the ascendency of that ,ery party which was jireviously opposed to it. I" consequence of ,l,e non-renewal of the hank charter, hank credit to the amount of I5,()00,00() of dollars was ,rithdrawn from the public ser- vice, and a number of local banks innnediately sprang u|). I'rocl fron, the salutary control of the United States' bank, they co.nnu.nce.l a system of imprudent tra,ling, an.l excessive issues, which speclily ,lisor<lered the currency of the eotmtry: an.l notwithstanding all her resources, an.l all her ,,atriotism, in th,. last year of the VOL. r. r- > '■' ' \ § i • f.'L hit I! I ''':■■ . If; *;' 'I'!; '<il I! I I II If ' f hi in 54 SIX >r()N"rns last wjir, the Uiiitccl States were on tlie eve of bankruptcy, solely for the want of some national institution that would have assisted the exij^ences of government, and supported a cir- culating medium of general credit throughout the Union. The loss of the United States during the three years when there was no bank, was estimated at not less than 46,000,000 of dollars, sustained exclusively by want of a sound currency and an efficient system of finance. The United States' bank has established branch banks at twenty-two of the principal commercial cities of the Union. When it was first opened there were, as we have seen, but two parties in the country, both acting from motives purely patriotic. The number is now increased, and interest is not now, as it was then, left out of the question. The bank charter does not expire till 18^36; but tiie sen- 'N' A.MEinc.V. it;) 'imonts of fl.o prosidont „„ ,1,. s„l,joct .,f i,s ■enewal, which so ,loe,,ly involves the co.nmor- ''i»l .'m|,pi„ess of the Union, cannot hut ho speculated upon with peculiar interest, even at this distance of time. It is said that General Jackson is unfavour- able to its renewal. In his message of 1830 he expressed an opinion, that the bank had failed in tl'e great end of establishing an uniform and sound currency. This is supposed to have re- ference merely to the circumstance of the bank, "ot in all cases redeeming the bills issued by any one of its branches indiscriminately at all tl.e others. But it would be an obvious injus- tice to oblige the bank to any such measure : tl.e attempt would be quite incompatible with its existence ; as it is evident, that if the ex- change were unfavourable in one State, and favourable in another, the flow of „„tes from K'2 1 , -! ■ 1' ;.■, ' : . . .■ I; l\ ih. t 1,*' i* II I'll! J 1 f: !i 'I ^: ; Hi 5({ SIX MONTHS tlio Stato vvlioro it is uiifavoiimblo, would somi siisp(Mi(l or contract all tlic operations of tlic bank ; and the very evil of an inequality of the currency, which the establishment was desi<^ued to remedy, would be increased by a vain attempt to perform impossibilities. 1 need not, how- ever, pursue this subject further; but will only add, that all reasonini>- and experience seem to favour a belief in the advantaaes which the bankinji" establisliment has conferred on the country. It is, besides, in ]iossession of a consi- derable surj)his fund, after deducting- seven per cent., which will enable it to meet any contin- g;ences that may arise. In lieu of the United States' bank, an establishment to be termed a national bank, founded on the credit of the government and its revenues, has been proposed by General Jackson and others. Five hundred agents are cm})loyed at the present moment in IN A.MI:HI(.\. ■)/ lnt.is,-ictin«- tlio affairs „f tl,,. ( -.liu.,! Stafos' l,anl< ; '"" 'l'^' ->">nm>us incroa^c. „f ,,a„„„aj.o „l,icl, ^>•m.l,l aecrao t<, tlu. g,.von,nu.nf l,y the ostal.lisl- '"cnt „f tl,. |„.„,,„sc.,| \a,i,„„| I,,,,,,,, „.„„|,, 1,^. I'othiMg- i„a„n,,ans.,,Mntl, ,1,0 |».„-,.,. ,l,at „„„l,l ^"•sto,li,,it r, ,,it.l,avi,,g.,,,,,k.,.i,.eo,,tn,l Hh- (lispe„.ati„„ of l.a„l< aco„n„„,„lati,.„s t,. tho •"""""tofat least .5(M)(»n,000 „f dollars. . W),,,,, tl'c'* co„.,o.,„o,.e« aro eoiisidcro,!, it is .liifiealt '" """"•"■'• '""^' ^"^■'' " l>lai. eo,.M «„,! sapj^.n a..Kmg tl,o sul.jcc-t, of a 8■o^-e^.„K.„t M.-ofos,i„u. to 1,0 tlioroiiglily (Ionic •■■atical. 'l'l.e .society of I'hila.Iolphia is, ,ako„ all togothor, tl,o bost in tl,e Lnitocl Statos. Tho gay season is ,l,n'i„g the ^^nto.■ n.ontl.s. IJalls and concerts are then frcjaont an.l «-oll attoncle.l: in this respect I was unfort.n.ate, as I was in tlmt city in May-but I was partly recomponse.l for my loss, l,y the promona.le in Washington :ii 1*. 'hi fn i' r » 1 i '■I 1 1 1 1 I- ^i; 1 ■' iiffi' 1 'I I: i li 4 !i I ;i3 58 SIX MONTHS Square, wliicli, jiltliough sliady oiioufrli, an<i prettily laid out, is not what the most fashiou- l)lo promenade in Philadelphia ought to bo ; — and 1 could not but remark, that the display of l)eauty and elegance to be seen there about six o'clock on the afternoon of a fine day, was most richly deserving of a better place of parade. I cannot in conscience assert that, as far as it went, I thought it equal, and yet 1 am scarcely willing to pronounce it inferior, to the splendid cortege of Kensi '"ton gardens. I had come to the conclusion that I should not be able to descend the Mississippi to New Orleans. By the time that 1 should arrive there, the extreme heats of an American summer would have been prevailing in that very un- liealthy climate, and a stranger is almost certain IN A.MKIIIH. :>'j to 1)0 atmcke,! by tW,-v a»,l „«■,.... TIk- v„y,M!,a. .l.."-n tlu. rivor oeeupios li>e or six .lays ; tlie v..ya,ire „,, the ri,er is not performe,! in loss than ten or twolve; a>ul I „•„, consoled l,y learninj. that the voyage is excee.lingly te,lio«s, >» the 1„„- banks offer no variety of scenery tor many days-so mucl, s„, that upon vhhi^ ill the niorninu., a person mi^^ht ahnost be l)orsua(le(l lie had not moved from that part of the river where lie had been the previous evening. I therefore determined to make a tour through part of Pennsylvania: I had heard much of the beauty of the scenery, of the trout fisliing, and *' all that," and accordingly having engaged a place in the coach to Harrisburg, the capital of the State, I started by it, at the nondescript hour of two in the morning, and arrived at Harrisburg the same evening. The road lay through a well-cultivated, but not i)ar- ^ 1% Ir J: m ^Pl . i; ' ii; )|:, .(j( I 'M r :it. •■ 41 I 'WV* '' I nil'/ '11 5' )(;i i. I' ii N i| 00 SIX MONTHS tifiilarly intorcstiiijL;" country ; at least I did nor think so, for it rained in torrcMits tlio whole morninj^ ; and althouji^h I was inside the coach, one arm wtis completely wet through, in conse- quence of the oilskin panels ])einir but loosely fastened. The ij;Teat heat of summer renders it necessary that the conveyances should be as airy as possible ; the panels, which are made either of leather or oilskin, are rolled up in dry weather; but the "•gentleman in the corner" sometimes comes off very badly on a cold or rainy day. In addition to this, it must be remembered that the American coaches usually carry nine inside, and do not afford too much liberty to the legs. The three passengers who sit in the middle, lean their shouklers against a broad leather strap, whicli passes across the coach ; and as this occasionally gets unhooked in passhig over a forest road, their heads are IN AMI UK A. (il in^rantly ffin.wii in f(mt;K'f with tlio stomadis oFflioso who ar(> Ixhiiid them. 'J'hi' Diost c'oiisi(K'ral)h' phicr \vv passed was Ivt*a(Hii«r, which has mudi tlic aj)j)raraiicv of a socond-rato country town in Knoland. Viewed from the Snnhiiry road, l)y which I returned to it in my way hack to Phihidelpliia, its situation, in a Hue surroundino- country, appears to much o-reater advantage. \\\> passed no other phice of iu)te hut Lel)anon: in the vicinity of which is to he foinid some of tlie finest arahie land in I Vnnsylvania. Ilarrishurg is <lelightfully situated on the Susquehanna. It was liere for the first time 1 saw that heautiful river; in l>readth ahout tliree quarters of a mile. Its clear and shallow stream is not really sh)w, hut at a little distance it ai)pears as tranquil and um-uffled as the sur- face of a lake. Immediately op])osite to Harris- burg is an island, from either sitle of which a r, I, :«'« I '11 If 'Hi I' il 03 SIX NfoNlilS Kni«^' \v'(mk1('ii l)ri(l^t' is thrown to tlu' opposite Imiik of tlio rivor. Ilarrishurjif is tlu* cajtital of Pi'iinsylvania, and is a thriving-, noat and protty- htoking- town, containing about four tiiousand inliahitants. Tho Houso of AssoniMy, or Capi- tol, as it is always called in America, is huilt on an cminoncc. The sittings of the senate and liouse of representatives of Pennsylvania wore lield first at Plilladelphia, then at Lancaster, and subsequently for nearly the hist twenty years at Harrishurg, which, from its central situation, has been found much more convenient. The cham- ber where the representatives hold their sittings is very large, with separate desks for every tw^o or three members, disposed in a semicircle, in the same manner as in the French chamber of deputies. The chair in which the Speaker sits was filled by the celebrated patriot John Han- cock, when he presided in the assembly, by the vi j IN AMKinCA. (i.) iiuiiiIkt.s ui which tho (hvlararioji nt' iii(l.'|KMi- (loiR'o was signed in tho statt'-hoiisc at PhihuU'l- i>liia. Tlir sonalo and rc^prcscntativt's had just Hnishi'd thi'ir sittings, aftor having- passed only two hunched and si.xty-sevon Acts. I saw a list i)t' thcni. They cldcfly rohitcd to internal ini- l)rovenunt.s; ujul many of thjm made honourahh^ provision for old sohliers, or the wi(h)ws and hunilies of old soklier,, who iaid served in the revolutionary war. An exi)eriinent, -vhich would have l)een deemed sc/ioas in an older country, was (.n the eve of trial : an Act had been |)asse(l for levying a tax on personal j)roperty through- out the state. The bulk of the tuxes had hitherto been paid by the land owners, and a new assessn^oct made once every three years. The ammal tax is at the rate of one, two, or tliree hdlars the acre, according to the value of the land. I'he owner of personal property only, 'H 1^ l?i m i 11 U ' !•' If! ? ,1. > I I ! ' ' ' I'ii' ! ! M'i I' l 64 SIX MONTHS liowcver, oiijovrd an immiiiiitv, of wliicli the; })rescnt measure was intended to di^■est him, by making' him pay a tax of one (h)llar in a thousand. Every individual will he obliged to swear to the amount of his personal property; ;ind should he be supposed to swear falsely, an offieer will be empowered to eom])el the i)ro(luetion of any deed, bond, note, or bill, or of any writing- being evidence of a debt owing to him. How- ever, the general opinion seemed to be, that the graceless impost would be acquiesced in as one of fairness and necessity. On account of the enterprise of canals, railroads, and other im- provements, the state debt of Pennsylvania is larger than that of any other of the Union, amounting to 14,403,101 dollars, — the debt of New York amounting to nearly 9,000,000 dol- lars. The individual State debts are very likely to be increased rather than diminished, in the IN A. MI. 11 1 (A. 65 ond , l)nt ns no State debt lias in any instance been increased except for the purposes of in- ternal improvements the auomontation of the debt will but add eventually to the prosperity and wealth of the State. Suppose any state, New York for instance, were to borrow 4,000,()()() dollars for some j)ublic work, as a canal or rail- road, at a fixed rate of interest, aiul that the capital borrowed were to be reindjursable in the year 1850. Such a rate of tonnage would be levied on the canal or railroad as would, after payment of the interest, leave a sinkino- fund available for the redemption of the caj)ital bor- rowed, and tlie State would bo left in possession of a hu-ge tract of country rendered productive and valuable on account of the achlitional facility afforded for the carriage of produce to market. Once only since the formation of the consti- tution, and durin the presidencv of Jol ni IJI. k i' I I'* t i.f ()() SIX MONTHS Adams, luis a direct and general propert}'-tax l)een imposed by the federal government in time of peace. The view from the dome of the capitol at Harrisburg is very fine ; but a much better is obtained from the summit of a hill abou* a mile behind the town, although, perhaps, the town itself is not seen to such advantage. A great part of the surrounding country is very well cultivated; corn-fiields, pasture, and woodlands, are distributed over hill and hollow ; and occa- sionally here and there is perceived a small farm-house, of a neater and more English ap- pearance than any I had yet seen. On every side the landscape is terminated as usual by a boundless forest. The Susquehanna seems to lose itself through a gap in the Blue Mountains ; and ^throughout the whole of its course, which is visible for a great distance, its banks and \ I.V AMKHICA. 67 beautiful islands are clotJied with tlie ricliest foliage to the water's edge. I proceeded along ti.e nortJi bank of the river towards Duncan's Island, and after a ride of eight or nine miles, I arrived at the gap I have jnst mentioned. Its scenery forcibly reminded me of the Rhmo at Drachenfells. The abrupt and lofty hill on the left is not surmomited by a '« castled .crag," but it overhangs, perhaps, a nobler river, whose banks are covered with the forest trees of Ame- rica, instead of being formally scarped for the culture of vines, trimmed like gooseberry bushes. At a short distance from the gap, the river is crossed by an enormous wooden bridge of eight arches, which is very nearly half a mile in length. The bridges in America are usually of wood, of admirable construction, neatly painted, and covered over like many of the bridges in Switzerhnul. The piers are of stone if -"■■■fi 1 'I' 1 1 I 4:^ " t' s *: in I? I '9! 1 ifir it ^ I • 68 SIX MONTHS of i^roat size, and hnttrossod towards tlic stream. This bridiiC is the larocst of the kind I have seen any wliere. In the <^arden of tlie inn, or tavern, as it is usually called, is an Indian tumulus, ahcmt fifteen feet in hei<^ht, hemispherical in shape, mul evidently once much higher. These tu- muli are to be seen in vtirious parts of Penn- sylvania, and in fact, in all parts of America; often two are found at no great distance from one another. At Liverpool, in that state, are two of them, about three quarters of a mile apart ; but one had been ploughed over by the Gothic proprietor of the soih At first it is not difficult to infer from this, that a great battle had taken place in the vicinity, and that each party had adopted this place for the burial of the dead, — that universally, and eternally distinguishing characteristic between mankind IN' AMEHHA. 09 and those of the brute creation tliat make tlie nearest approaclies to humanity. Wliere, how- ever, tliey are found singly, the researclies of Mr. Jefferson and of others, induce us to believe that they were lieaped together upon other occasions. In one which he opened, Mr. Jef- ferson conjectures that there might be as many as a thousand skeletons ; and appearances indi- eated that it had derived its origin and enlarge- ment from a custom of collecting the bones of the dead on the spot at different times. They were deposited in layers, but in the utmost confusion of relative position ; the bones of the most distant parts of the body being crowded together. Those of infants and half-grown persons were found among them. These tumuli are sometimes composed of earth, and sometimes of loose stones, like the cairn and carnedd of Scotland and Wales. VOL. J. p m, n &H m iS- ,4 li i^' I f \ k ,«; ):M n J r'f li Urn i ■i« iH ■!l 70 SIX MONTHS Tlic coiiioc'tiiro, that tlioy were either raised over the dead in l)attle, or in accordance with the custom supposed by Mr. Jefferson, is the more probable, on account of the bones being always found in quantities. The Eu- ropean tumuli, of whatever age or nation, have either been heaped uj) over the ashes of some distinguished person, or are found to contain but a few coffins, of rough-hewn and loose stone. In America, I believe, none are supposed to cover the remains of one person only, deeply buried as in Europe, under the superincumbent mass; but in the tumuli of America the external coating of earth will easily crumble away when disturbed, and will fre- quently discover the bones at a trifling depth beneath the surface. Arrows and other imple- ments of war are frequently found amongst them. The formation of these tumuli is no IN AMETirCA. 71 vN'licre understood to he a modern custom. The Indians liave a feeling of reverence for them, and use them as land marks; hut the most aged are unahle to furnish any clue to the discovery of their antiquity. The knowledge of their own ancestors is confined to three or four gene- rations, and nothing certain is known of the aborigines who formed these tumuli. Humboldt himself, in his " New Spain, " after a learned dissertation on the subject, is obliged to admit that " the general question of the first origin of the inhabitants of the continent, is beyond the limits prescribed to history, and is not perhaps even a philosophical question." There can be no doubt that they were a distinct race, and more civilised than the wild Indians of the present day, whose Asiatic origin is also a subject of dispute. Humboldt believes that the analogy between the languages of Tartary and those of F 2 2 II I ^.-A 7-2 SIX MONTHS tlio IK'W C'onlliKMit cxtiMids to a very small mimhor of words. He adds, tliat the want of wJieat, oats, Imrlt'}-, rye, and of all those nutri- tive gramina which ^o under the name of cereal, seems to j)rove that if Asiatic tribes passed into America, they must have descended from i)as- toral people. We see in the old continent, tliat till' cultivation of cereal gramina, and the use of milk were introduced as far back as we have any historical records. The inhabitants of the new continent, cultivated no other gramina than maize. They fed on no species of milk, though the lamas alpacas, and in the north of Mexico and Canada, two kinds of iiud- genous oxen, would have afforded them milk in abundance. These are striking contrasts between the Mongol and American race. How- ever, in the Transactions of the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec, there has lately \ ii vn ■■ m IN' A:Mr.i{r(.\. 7;) 'A Ihvm puMisliod a " Catalogui' cfa few (iiinoty- six) romarkaMo instances, whidi iiiduee a heliet' of tlie Asiatic orin-i,, of the Xortli American Indians. Hy Major Mercer, i.. A." These I re- commend, as they are very interestin^r. Uohert- son says that ^' the Esquimaux Indians, are the oidy i)eoi)le in America who, in tiieir aspect and diaracter, bear any resemMance to the Nortiiern Europeans." Tliey differ from all the other Indian tribes in their hiuo;n'd^c, disposition, and habits of life. He thence infers the probability of their liaving originally passed over from tlie North-west of Europe, and adds, " that among all tlie other inhabitants of America, there is such a striking similitude in the form of their l)odies, and the cpialities of their minds, that notwith- standing the diversities occasioned by the influence of climate, or unecpial progress of improvement, W(> must pronounce them to bo ,■ i •♦.' *J li ■■I ' uf !| !|* l3i 74 SIX MONTHS k,: i ; tk'sceii(l(.'(l from one source — the north east of Asia." It may be here adtled, that Cuvier, wlien speaking of tlie mouflon of the Blue Mountains, informs us, that it is the on)y quath'uped of any size, the discovery of which is entirely modern, and gives it as his opinion, that perhaps it is only a Siberian goat that has crossed the ice. The junction of the Susquehanna and Juni- ata rivers, takes place at Dinican's Island. The latter is a much smaller river, varying from one to two hundred yards in breadth. In some places its thickly forested banks rise to a great height above the gloomy-looking stream, whose dark placidity is occasionally disturbed by small rapids, or falls, as they are termed, though they hardly deserve the name. I observed a sunken raft, and one solitary fish-hawk (osprey). The m 'p IN A.MKWMA. /.) < 1 .V ft road coiitimics iil<»ii^" tlii' sidi- ot ilic Juniata tor several miles; it then leaves it, andeonduets the traveller to Lewistown. I observed nothiiii»- remarkable in this phiee. Its situtitioii, howevi'r, is })ietiires(jiie, as it is surrounded with abrupt hills and ri>infj^ grounds ot' dit^'erent elevation, with plenty of forest, as usual. The distanei' from Lewistown to a phiei' ealled Hrown's Mills, is not more than five miles. Here I found an excellent country iini, kept by an Irishman, and a most delicious trouting stream, running- raj)idly through the woods, and emerjii^inir close to the inn. It is wadeable in every part, and swarms with trout, some of them weighing more than three pounds. Those killed with a fly, do iu)t average more than \m\f a pound in weight ; but it is no uncommon occurrence to kill Ave or six dozen in two or three hours. When I was tlu're, and in lact during the whole time I passed in '1. . ... R i m m t ki: 1*1 ii nt. I .! . f: :' ii^ h f E . : I 1 70 six .MONTHS Pennsylvania, the season n.*-, early, and tin- wt'athtT cold anil unt'avourabivj so tliat I killed Init very tew fish. A severe walk of twenty-five miles throu<^li the forest, and across a ranj^e of hills known hy the name of the Seven Mountains, brought me to Belfont ; a large and thriving town, conspicuous from heing placed on a hill in the midst of a >'ery pretty country. Close to Belfont are three full mountain streams, or creeks, as they are called in America. Spring creek in particular, contains an enormous quan- tity of trout, of about the same size as those at Brown's Mills; hut the weather was still ulifavourahle, and it was all in vain that I waded down the stream for nearly four miles. I took but seven or eight moderate -sized fish. The red hackle is considered the best general fly. The other streams are known by the names of the Bald Eagle, and Logan's creek. The former r I\ AMI 151 ( A. 77 takos its namo from a l»al(l *'au,l('"s nost, tliat was ammally Imilf in flic vicinity, or, w liiiii is more |H(>l>ai>iis troiu a triUc of Indians set called, who resided there. At the head waters of tiie other creek, is still seen the place (»f residence of the ceiehrated Mini;o chief, Loi»inj, — whose ehxjneiit inessau;e to T.ord Dnnniore. is too well known to need insertion heri'. Many of the aued inhai)itants of Helfont still reinend)er hini. Ills fate resenihled that of Demosthenes and Cicero: he perished i'or his elo([uence. An old otlicer of the United kStates army, who, soon after the close of the revolntionary war, was ordered to make surveys of the country watered hy the Alleghany river, informed me that Logjui's ne})licw, a remarkably fine youno^ Indian, dined with him one day in his tent, and that he asked him wluit became of Logan. J killed him, was the replv. Why did you kill him?-- P ii i! i«i. J I ^ll It i I; ill 78 SIX MONTHS The nation ordered it. For what reason ? — He was too great a man to live : he talked so well, that although the whole nation had in- tended to put any plan in exeeution, yet, if Logan did not approve of it, he would soon gain a majority in favour of his opinions. Was he not then generally in the right ? — Often ; hut his influence divided the nation too much. Why did they choose you to put him to death 'i If any one else had done it, I would certainly have killed him : 1, who am his nephew, shall inherit his greatness. Will they not then kill yon also? — Yes: and when I become as great a man as Logan (laying his hand on his breast wdth dignity), 1 shall be content to die ! He added, that he shot him near the Alleghany river. When informed of the resolution of the council of his nation, Logan stopped his horse, drew himself up in an attitude of great dignity, and received the fatal l>all without a murmur. '/ % K IN AMKRKA. 7i) From Belfont I procoeiled on foot over tlio niomitaiiis to PJiilij)sbur^, on the western slope of tlie Alleghany ridge. The distance was ahout twenty-eight miles. After M'alking for several hours along the side of the Bald Eagle creek, I arrived at the foot of the AUeghanies. The>' are composed of sandstone, and are more ex- tensive than any lii the Stales on this side of the Rocky Mountains, though their height is incon^ siderable. The most elevated part of the ridge in Pennsylvania does not, as I have said l)efore, exceed P300 feet; hut at the other peak, in Vir- ginia, it rises to :3950 feet above the level of the great western rivers, being two or three hundred feet higher than Ben Lomond. The High Peak Oil the Rocky Mountains is the highest moun- tain in the United States, and attains an eleva- tion of 12,500 feet. Mouni Washiiigton, the highest of the White MounUiins, is G234 feet •n m j, I- n i \ fi ■; l\ I'. I li i ■' II I* ma i ii 1 t '!: 80 SIX .MONTHS ill liciglit; Mansfield, in Vermont, tlie most lofty of tlie Green Mountains, is somewhat liijrlier tlian Ben Nevis in Scotland, as it rises to 4*279 feet. I ascended the Alle<»hanv^ by a good road, that wound gradually up the side of the mountain, and after a walk of about three hours and a half, I was in full contem- plation of the most extensive forest view I had ever yet beheld. I have seen many of tlie dark and impenetrable pine forests in the north of Europe, where the mountains are far higher, and the scenery proportionably grander, but I never remember a forest so interminable as that 1 am speaking of. One small j)atch of cultiva- tion was perceivable in a very distant valle\', called, I believe, Penn's Valley. The vast thickets of Norway, Sweden, and Russia, are chiefly of pine trees, and are grand and gloomy enough, but s»tnietimes tiresouK^ from their IX AMKHICA. 81 inoiMitoiiy. Nature lias painriMl tlu'Di witli her usual ability; l)ut tlie colouring she has em- ployed fflay be compared to that of a dra\vin<»; ill Indian ink, ecpially creditable to the artist, but not so pleasing to the eye as a many-tinted picture. There are plenty of pines on tlie Alleghany, but there is also an immense assem- blage of other trees. A lady informed me, that being desirous of sending to Er.gland specimens of the different woods of this })art of the country, she collected fifty-two without any difficulty; but there are many more than these. The princi[)al material of the American navy is, as I have before noticed, afiV-iled by the live-oak, so called from its being i»n e\ergrcen, and from its elas- ticity, extrcmr durability, and other generous properties. The leaf of this tree resembles the ilex of Spain and England, l)ut is rather larger, and nunc pointed. It is not found in Pennsyl- i ' •'■ jil 1 (j Id m i I: if 8*2 SIX MON'rilS viinia — orowino' in the soiitliern States chiefly, ill Georgia and the Caroliiias, wlieiice it is con- veyed to the different dock-yards of the Union. There are liere, nevertheless, more than tliirty varieties of the oak, each hearing a dis- tinct fruit : of these, the white-oak, which is inferior in quality but comes the nearest to the navy-oak of Great Britain ; tlie red-oak, the Mack, and the rock, or scrub-oak, are the most common. The other trees of the forest, are usually the Spanish-chestnut (two varieties) — the horse-cliestnut is not indigenous in America, l)ut thrives well; I saw one at the Manor near Baltimore — the hickory (two varieties); the black- walnu t ; the American-poplar, or tulip- tree, the pride of the American forest, and growing frequently to an enormons size ; yellow, white, spruce, and hemlock pines — the larch is not found, or is rarely to l)e met with, in the j I.» IN' AMKUKA. s:j United States: I luive not seen tlieni in tlie Canadas — bass-wood, or common English-lime ; su^ar-maple, white maple, red and white elm, willow, sassafras, black and yellow birch, asli, g-um-tree, beech, iron-wood, mulberry, dog- wood, rhododendron in great quantities, k.'ilmea, latifolia, hazel, red and wliite cedar, clematis, virg'iniana, indigo, and a great variety i)f ferns and wild vines. In the autumn, or fall, as it is universally and prettily termed in vVmerica, the forest view is excessively beautiful, in consequence of the brilliant assemblage of colours exhibited l)y the diversity of foliage collected together. My eye roved over a constant succession of mountjiin and valley, and hill and hollow, all alike clothed in the glorious forest garb, whilst the more distant tints became bluer and bluer, till they faded away at the farthest verge of the horizon. I-:' 84 SIX MONTHS n *' The Indian liad long been driven or bonglit out from tliis part of the country ; hut the rocks and tliickets of the forest beneath me had doul)tless concealed many an ambush, and witnessed many a carnage. They liad responded to the sharp twang of the rifle, and re-echoed tlie more ter- rific war-wlioop ; but (hu-ing the time tliat I remained on the top of the moinitain, all around me was as silent as tlie place was solitary, with the exception of the occasional stroke from the peaceful axi* of the back-woodsman, that re- sounded from a glade about a mile from the spot where I had sat down to rest myself. I soon afterwards passed the Moshanan Creek, in which an expert fisherman on a fa- vourable day can kill any quantity of trout he pleases. Beside the bridge, is a small and soli- tary tavrsii, kept by an Englishman from Glou- eester?jliire. With him resides an old man IN' AMKHH \. 85 nanu'd Jofiojili Earl, a (.'Minplcrc spiu'imiMi of tlio rt'al hackwoodsinan ; just such a character as Lcathorstockiuo-, iu Mr. Cooper's novel. He will take his rifle and his knapsack, and fre- (piently absent himselt' for weeks at i\ time in search of ^ame. If he kill a deer, he will carry off the skin, and hanp; up the venison in a secure ])hK'e, and from his intimate acquaintance with the mountains, and every settler who lives in them, no long time elapses before he can c(mi- mand any assistance he may require. The prin- cipal tenants of the forest are the congar or ]iainter (panther), as it is \'ery improperly termed; the bear, the wolf, the lynx (called the cat-a-mount), the wild cat, the marmot, the ra- coon, the opossum, and red and gri'v foxes. Tiie deer, which in some places is very abuiulant, is he cerous viri^inianus, a species unknown in Europe, of a size between tlie red and c(mimon vol. I. (i ^1 f ' '1' I mm m •i' i- 1^ fi ;;■'*■ 80 SIX MON'IMS tallow door, with a small palmated horn, no- side this thoro aro but two species of deer found ill the eastern States, the moose deer, or groat Siberian elk, and the American elk, four of which were exhibited in London some years ago under the coined name of wapiti, and which have bred very well in England. Other kinds of deer, and goats and sheep, and an antelope from the Rocky Mountains, are exhibited in the Zoological museum. The reindeer is found in the colder latitudes of Lower Canada, where it exists in large herds. A species of stag of gigantic size, with enormous horns, which Hum- boldt considers as a distinct species, is very common in the forests and plains of New Cali- fornia. He thinks it probable that the horns which were displayed by Montezuma to the companions of Cortez, as objects of curiosity on account of their immense size, beloniJ^od to this h IN VMi:iir( \, (*7 ■-"mnnl. A spoeios of ,1,,. ,,m.. ifo„,„ ,„ ,1,,. r..,ro,,oa„ chovrcil, or rochnok, is also to»„,| i,. ('an«,la a,„l somo of tl,o Sfatos. It is larsvr. a„,l l-'"SH- oaro.1 than tl.o Knropoa,, animal. Of tl,o '•"'■vus virffi„ian„s or common ,loor of America. a single lun.tor will sometimes kill t„-o or tl.roe ■■->■•'% :'mt will more often go „-iflK,nt a sin,,, '" *'"y ■■"•<■ >■">' «•'■'''. and their sense of smell- inS exceedingly acute. A still day is nnti.vonr- "'''^'••" windy day is the best, as the sportsman """ """ """' '-"'y '«'■'»• tl'om on the windward si<le. The congar is their greatest enemj., I,„t is luckily not very common. A tew years ago ••". American gentleman who ha,l taken up In's sl.ooting-,,uarters at the tavern I have just men- tione.l, wounded a ,leer, and tracked it by the I'lood. On coming up with it, he observed a ecgar on the animal ; he fired, and ha,l the satisfaction to see it drop dead. When he G 2 I yi ) H8 SIX MONTHS ii|HUM>iU*lu'(l, lu' saw another, tliaf lia<l vToucIumI hehiiid the body of the deer. He disal)led him, aiul killed him with the third «hot. As he was returning, he Uillod anottier deer, and hroiij^ht all the tour skins with him to the tavern. The old Englishman shewed m the scalp ot* a deer that had been killed during the last season : a Gougar was in full pursuit of him ; and the deer took to the water close by the tavern. The cougar sprang on him in the water, but made off when he saw one of the old man's sons aj)- proaching with a rifle, from which the poor deer received his death-wound immediately after- wards. I found that there wa'' a penalty of five dollars for killing a deer at this season of the year. The winged game of these forests are — the wild turkey, which being pursued with avidity by the sportsman, is becoming more scarce every day : it is larger than the tame turkey, and its ti f IN A.Ml.KllA. 89 |)liiin!iu;t' closclv rt'S(MTil)l«"«! that ot" the dark- coliuirrd (loinc'sticati'd Idnl, hiit is latlior iiuni' hrilliaiit : tlic pheasant, uhirh is a spocico of wood-trroiiso ; tlif j)artridi>;'<\ which shoidd ratiior ho termed a quail, i)ut whieli is, in I'aet, as I liave iiereafter noticed, neither one nor rhe other : tl woodcock, snipe, pii»;eons, and wild fowl, in w,ic'ut ahundance. The largest snakes found in these forests, are tl«e ratth'-snake, the copper-liead, or moccasin- snake, so called from its yellow colour, resem- hling that of tlie moccasin, or Indian sandal; and the hlack -snake. The latter ^rows to the length of seven or eight feet, and vH'en longer. It moves with great rapidity, is a species of the boa-constrictor, and its liabits and manner of taking its prey are similar to those of that tre- mendous reptile. The ])ite is not poisonous. The copper-head is a very ihuigerous snake, as IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT.3) .V^ 1.0 I.I ■£■21 125 150 ■^~ H^H 11-25 i 1.4 1.6 4. 71 ^>. '> '> A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST .'•(AiN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580 (716) 872-4503 fV •s? \\ ci^ ^ <^^^. V ,5 • ( !,i I r \H) SIX MONTHS it givos MO waniiii*^' like the rattlo-snul<(.'. Its name is its (lescriptioii, as far as it goes. Its iengtii is al)out three feet. Tlie rattle-snake is too well known to need nuieli description : it invariably raises its tail and rattles before it Strikers, so that, in general, it can be easily avoided. The Indimis consider this as proof of its noble nature, and accordingly they never destroy it, believing that it has something divine in it. A large rattle-snake would measure four feet in length, perhaps, or a little more, but is very thick in proportion. When about to attack, it suddenly coils itself, with the tail raised, and rattling in the middle of the coil, and can strike from nearly its whole length. It is a very s})irited animal ; and from its moving but slowly out of the way, is destroyed with little difficulty. Much has been said of the extreme danger of its bite, and of the nunib<'r of persons bitten ; "X • N \"Mi:i{i(.\. J>l '"it likr the accidents iVoni canine madness in i*:i'i,Hand, tl.cv are far mcM-e often Jieard of than "H^t uith. It is most ,.rol,al>ie that a person would die, unless immediately assisted,-or have at all events a very narrow escape, if hitten (mi any ,,art of the body that happened to l>e naked : '»"t if strnck thron,i.h liis clothes, so. great a Proportion of poison is l,y them ahsorhed, or prevented from comi..«- in n.ntact with the Mood, that the Lite, if taken in time, is not dangerous. tl le cJii It is a well known and singular fact, that '>ody of a person hitten, will sometimes vhilst under the influence of the poison mg to the colour of the snake that bit I plant called the rattle-snake weed (I lim. The (bidens fron- dosa) is a re medy used by the Indians, and sometimes, I was credibly informed, with effect. The 1( great aves and root are boiled in milk n t)--> SIX MuNins Hi and usoil as a |»«mllici' : rlu- milk is also takoii iiitcriially. In Mr. Pratt's botanical gartlen at lMiilailel[)iiia, 1 saw a specimen of another plant wiiicli is also considered efficacious (poly«^ela senaga) called l>y the French ''I'lierhe a serpente (I sonnettes." It grows in damj) and shady parts of the woods, to a height of about two feet ; has a small pointed leaf, and a single fusiform root, resembling a piece of stick- liquorice. I was, however, assured by a phy- sician of eminence at Philadelphia, that the only remedy he had never known to fail, was the speedy application of a cupping glass to the wound, and a large tea s[)oonful of ammonia in a wine gliuss tilled with water, administered every hour till the symptoms took a favourable turn. It is well known that hogs soon destroy every snake in the woods around a settlement. 'Thev eat them, and are seldom known to sulier IN A.MKUK A. 93 ( li(»rn tlie l»iff, (.uinir, it \^ ^aid, to tlu- (iiiaiirif\ of Kil ill thoir s\>U'in. Almost I'vcry wild animal is tl'cir I'lii'my; small hirds will oltoii |)(>clv at tlu-m, althoiio-l, at the same time cmleiicc is certainly to l>e ^iveii to the stories of laseiiiatioii or terror hy whieh small animals, sueh as squirrels and birds, are sometimes rendered unable to escape from them. Deer will erush them t(» death, by juni])ing on them with all their tour feet brought close together. I was frequently told that ratth'-snakes were common here and tl lere: but still I ji ever saw one: the fact i> that they generally lie concealed. A tra\elling in the woods, will |)erson sometimes eome suddeidy ui)on Hfty or a huncU-ed of th*>m bunk- iiig- on the rocks. They all retire as the col.l weather approaches, and lie torpid durino- tl le •hoi whole wmter; so that a sportsm daiiuer from the an IS ni no in. A French i^-entleman, wl lO !)| SIX MON'I'IIS wM IJ' ^H' a year or two ago was shooting grouso xt'ry early in the season, oi» the mountains in New Jersey, was suchlenly struck near liis hip hy a rattle-snake of the hirgest size; thanks to his loose fustain trowsers, the fangs did not touch him; the brute coukl not extricate itself, and hrnig ui)on him till stunned Uy repeated blows from his gun. Philipsburg is rapidly increasing, under the advantages of English superintendence : it con- tains about eight hundred inhabitants in the town and environs. It is almost exclusively the j)roperty of one English gentleman, who is master of nearly 70,000 acres in that part of the country. While I partook of his hospitality, I was agreeably surprised by the circle of English society, which 1 fouiul collected under his roof. «. IN A. mi; MICA. J)5 St'voial Kiio-lisl, l.avo niado Piiilipslmrg rln-ir platv of resideiKv. Its advanta^ros consist in a iTiiiarkaMy healthy situation «)n tlie ucstcin >sl()l.c of the Alleohanies, whore the cUvscent is so gradual as to he hardly pereeptihle; an easy and constant cornmunieation with Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh on the Ohio; excellent trout- fishing, and shooting in the forest: a very cheap market (a sheep or deer can he I)ou<rht for a •lollar), and excellent medical advice, l/ncleared land may he purchased at one, two, or three dollars an acre. The hirge beaver dams in this neighbourhood afford the finest pasture agni *}' for several miles along the side of the Mosl lanan Creek. W\ lat is now called a beaver d am, IS not merely the fence or dam which that indus- trious animal had thrown across the stream, but the whole meadow over which the wate X4 ^i, r was m ^ hi 9G SIX MONIIIS <j)ro€i(l ill conscqiKMK'c of its IxMiiir arrested in it- four.si' The 1 x'uvcr was hold sacrci I i>v tl 10 Indians, and tlioir habitations wore j)r<)l)ai)ly undistnrhod for conturios. Tlic stream, when checked in its career hv the dam which those extraordinary animals had constructed, found its level, of course, in every nook to which it could gain access; and tree and shrub rotted away with so much moisture. As the beaver was destroyed, or driven out by the projy^ress of civilization, the dams gave way, and the stream soon returned to its former channel, and the bottom of the pond or dam is converted into a fine meadow, exceedingly valuable for the pur- poses of the grazier. A person may travel through the forest for many miles, and will su(Ulenly emerge upon a green open space, with scarcely a tree or shrub upon it, although at the same time it be surrounded l>v a leafv wall of )i IN IMKlin A. 97 ""■ '"'■'''•^' ''"■-■^' "•— ■ \" l':n«li.l, ,n.n,l..,„a„ '""' ■'"■" """""•"'•••(I ;: (an,. „„ ,„„. „,■ „,,,, .|,„„,^ ""■I I r.Ml.. al,.,„t si.x ,nil« ,l„.„„„.l, u,,. „-.,„,l, t.. >i»it Imn. Tl„. ,,1,..,, |„„| ,„„,„ t,,,, a,,,,.,.,,.,,,.. "f an ICnglisl, ,,arl<, uhicl, door a,„l o,U„ „i|,| ""i-nals ,voul,l frocjuontly cross, a.ul sonu.ti.n., "■itl,in riflo-slmt from l,is „.i„,|„„.. u was ,„.,r.. "•"" a n,ilo i„ |,„j,„,, „.„, ^,^^, ^,^^^^^^ ^^_^_| appoaranco of a billiard tal)li.. At I'l.ili,,sl,urg, and i„ tl.o .K.V|,lm„rl,oo,|, aro several iron works. I visite.l a curious screw manufactory tl.ero: ,1,,. maelnno for head- ing tl.e screws was invented on tl,o s,,ot, and proLably the. is not such another to be foun.l any vvliere. It turned out about sixty screws i" a minute, and finished them off with a neat- ness that would excite the surprise even of a meclianist. 1 Lave l,efore mentioned tliat Philadelphia •if ■k, 4 1)H SIX AroNTIlS ll'.» Jl will shortly ho ooiinoctcd with the Ohio rivor, hy mc^nns of thf C'olumhia rail-road, from whifh the lifroat Pciiiisyhania canal will soon he finisht'd to tho foot of the AIlot>^hany mountains, whoro it will 1)0 joined hy another rail-road, which will pass the mountains, and communicate with Pittshur^. Another rail-road will, most ]>ro- hahlv, he constructed, so as to intersect the same canal a little above Huntingdon. It will come from the bituminous coal district, which lies about Philipsburg and Clearfield county, and is spread over a great extent of ground on the western slope of the Alleghany. Plenty of stone or anthracite coal is to be found in many parts of Pennsylvania, and in vast quantities; but the bituminous coal used in the transatlantic cities is supplied either from Liverpool, from Nova Scotia, or from Virginia. The particles of the Virginia coal, however, are too much I IN \Mr.ni( \. \)\) ■ f (livitlt'd, iiiid if iiKMC r('"><i'inl)U's tlir i'(»al iist'd hy a Itlacksmitli, tli.ui tlio Newcastle coal. I liavt' understood that hitumiiious coal lias Ikumi lattdy discovcrod, altlioiigh in very small (jiiaii- titios, ill PtMiiisylvania, on the oastoni side of the mountain. Tho anthracite coal throws out a very powtM'ful heat, hut is very trouhlesonie and unmanau^eahle, requirini*; a lonjj^ time hefcne it will kindle proj)erly; hurnini^- without flame or smoke, and creatinir an un])leasant and rather uidiealthy dryness in the atmosphere of a room. An exj)eriment had been successfully tried in New York, i)y which the antliracite coal had been rendered subservient to tlie purposes of the steam-engine. It was contrived that a stream of hydrogen-gas, generated by part of tlie engine, should flow constantly over the burning coal, so that a powerful flame was thus fed under the boiler. But in all cjises where a n^ \ W. '« ■ i \ m "sfN NroNTIIs \,.> R ' injiiiiinriiMr Hit" is rr(|iiir«'(l, flu- l>itiiminMii»i cojil is t'iir |»r('t\M'al)K'. Hy incaiis of tin- IMiili|>Nluir|^ rail-road, the whole eoimtry will In- su)t|»lit'(l with this valiialih' mineral, at a very moderate expense, from tlie iiK'xhaustiMe stores on the western sloj)e of the Allei^hany. The neeessity of makinir eheaper ir(Hi is heeominjr daily more imperative in the United States. I'or this end, to say nothini;' oi' the earriaii^i' of timher, thi' l*hilij)sl)ur^ rail-road will l)e very advantageous, as it will brinji^ down the coal to he converted into coke, to he used in the smelting furnaces; and it will pass through the midst of the .luniata iron district, where more than twenty forces and furnaces already exist in full activity ; and whose increasing im])ortance calls for a more adequate and expeditious mode of conveyance than it at present commands. The whole country will he much benefited : and independently of the real i> l)iriiiiiinoii«« comI \' rill' I*liili|islnir}r will lit> supplied ;i very modcrntc lit' stores on tlie The neeessity miitiyf daily more s. I*'or tins end, e of timber, the M'y advantageous, to he converted Tieitin^ furnaees ; 1st of the .luniata wenty forces and tivitv ; and whose a more adequate pyance than it at e country will be lently of the real W^ f • ■II i I \. ^ ~ 1 Y: V ■ J" • /— . on ^. i^ t IN \ML;in».\. IDI ^ '^ r ^ ^ Jind lastin*;- a(l\;nitai;i's t»> 1)0 gained l)y flic coiistnic'tioii <»t" the Pliili|»'^l)Mr<»- rail-road, an oarly attention to the plan, from the proper (piarter, will he hut justiee to the exertions ot" a jjeiitlemaii, who, with his brothers hetore him, has devoted time and ca})ital to the enterprise, and h;is ealled into existenee a hiii'idy respect- al)le eommunitv, and the most thriviiiir and nseful settlement in the haek woods of Penn- svlvania. ■ n T. - \ r< 1 left Philipsl>nrg, and returned to Belfont, whenee I took the road to Xortlnnuherland. Jn about six hours I ajo^ain eame In sight of the Sus(pieliainia, flowinjr thronoh an extensive valley, with its lofty southern bank robed to tlie very sununii by a covert so tliieklv interwoven as to be al)solutely impassable. I proceeded vol.. I. J! ;■( 3 ii J it' ki lO'J SIX MONTHS (lovvH the side of the river till I arrived nt the Ferry at Dimnsl)iirg. Here I met with a piece of lU Th )leii incivility and impudence, llieinsoi young Cliaron allowed me to place my luggage in his leaky hark ; hut as I was proceeding to take my seat, he " calkilated," with the most dis- agreeable twang (at least, I thought so) tliat I had yet heard, '* that I must pay him a fip (five- penny bit) before I put my foot into his boat." It was all ill vain that 1 pointed to my portman- teau, intimating that it would be "assets" for the payment of my passage to the other side. Nothing would satisfy him but mj' fip before- hand ; and I was obliged to pay it. It appeared that some stage-passengers had gone oft' without paying, and he did not wish to be cheated a second time. The guard who arrived with the mail, was so enraged at is conduct, that he actually took out one of the horses, crammed ly AMKKK A. 10.*} m tin liiin tlirougli the river, and arrived safely on the ()tlier side with tlie letter-ba^^s. Within a mile or two of Dunnshurg, are some Indian tumuli ; but I did not stop to see them. I travelled onward through a most de- lightful countr)', abounding in black-oak; the bark of which is sent down the river, and shipped off in great quantities for England, where it is used in dying. I enjoyed a very fine view from the hill over which the road passes near Moncey ; but 1 afterwards saw the same pros- pect to much greater advantage, from North- umberland. This place contains about two thousand inhabitants, and is most delightfully situated on the neck of land that separates the northern and western In'anches of the Susque- lianna. The celebrated Dr. Priestley spent the latter years of his life in this place. He died about twenty-five years ago. I was assured by H 2 4V M L It 104 SIX MON'I'HS an old and intimato friend of Ids, wlio was witli liim l)ut a few minutes before lie died, that there was ^reat foundation for a prevalent belief, that for some months previously to his death, he changed his opinions in favour of the divinity of Christ. Good land, in a state of cultivation, is worth twenty, thirty, forty, or even a hundred dollars the acre, in this part of the country. The ave- rage profits of land amount to twelve and a half per cent. Thirty bushels of wheat is a good crop. The wages of the married labourer are fifteen dollars a month (the United States dollar is equal to 4*. 6d.). Single men, who board at the house of their employer, receive but ten. Wherever I made inquiry, I found the rate of labourers* wages to be much the same through- out the States. I crossed the western branch of the Susque- »% IN AM Kin (A. lo:) I liaiiiKi l)y a now and liandsome wooden bridge, built as usual on stone piers. Its length was l.'31() feet, and it cost 70,000 dollars. I then immediately ascended the heights on the other side. From them I had a full ^•iew of both branches of this ''shining river," an appellation which none deserves better than tin? Susque- lianna. I preferred the scenery around Moncey to that in tlie direction of Wyoming. The sun was declining behind the precipice on which I stood, which was thrown more and more into shade, as the red rays glanced through the pines on its summit, and swept downward into the broad and beautiful valley beneath me. The windings of the river were visible to a great distance. Although considerably larger, it strongly reminded me of the Thames seen from Richmond-hill. Its tranquil lake-like stream meandered through the country, encir- i-\ m s\ ^ i ! H lOG MX MON'I'llS clingf sovenil islands : at one time gliding- in silence throngli the forest, or emerging to roll its waters over a rich and extensive meadow, it freshened every thing in its course; and when it had fully })erformed the task of ornament and usefulness allotted to it by nature, it seemed to lose itself through a gap in the Blue Mountains, from which in reality it issued. Beautiful as it is, yet, were this England, I could not help thinking, how different would be the appearance of the country ! I am gazing on a view, as splendid as any one of tlu- same character I ever beheld in any land, — I see be- fore me a noble river, winding its way through an exquisite landscape, of hill and dale, and wood and verdure, abounding in every resource that could make a country life agreeable; but it is in vain that my disappointed eye roves over the scene, and rests on the most magnificent I 4 IN A.MF.UKA. H)7 situations for park and palace : where, tlioiight I, are the "stately liomes of Euii^land?" — where is the niarhle-frouted hall, and the village church beside it, with its spire j)ointing to the lieavens ? The powerless genius of embellish- ment wanders disconsolate along the beautiful l)anks of the Susquehanna, and bitterly com- })lains that he is fettered by the spirit of de- mocracy. I am far from meaning to infer in the a])ove passage, that there is any lack of churches in the United States. On the contrary, they are numerous. As an Englishman, I am here speak- ing merely with reference to situation, and the association of ideas excited in my mind. The Americans, in general, are not fond of comparisons between England and their own country, exce})t in cases where the balance is in their favour ; but still, I have often observed !#! i m i 108 SIX MONTHS i i^ that there is no suhject of eoiu'ersatioii more ghidly discussed by an American ^entk?man, and more particularly by those who have country houses of their own, than the splendour of the seats of our nobility and gentry, and the per- fection of society which is enjoyed at them. There is nothing in England so apt to elicit from them a remark of honest regret, as their knowledge of the very remote probability, I may almost add, the utter hopelessness, of their ever being able to boast of seats and villas at all equal to those on this side of the Atlantic, so long as the present form of government exists in full force. Who would build a really splendid mansion, which, after his death, will probably either become a ruin, or be sold, and converted into an hospital ? or who would clear and beau- tify a park of any extent, to be divided and ploughed up by his needy successors? I have ' <»r IN AM LRU A. KM) scon country houses in America, whose (U'li^ht- ful situation, and i>entlemanly appearance, (although it must l)e aUovved, they often U)ok tl len* best at a distance), only serve to reiuler the prospect of division the more melancholy. I have been kindly received at many of them : I have nsuallv noticed a due attention to comfort and elegance, and invariably, to kindness and liospitality ; but I have iu)t been able to avoid a remark, that there did not ajipear to be much difference in the size of the houses, or the extent of the grounds, as if there existed a general and mournful acknowledgment, that a just medium was to be observed between the expense incurred with reference to present enjoyment, and the probability of an idtimate loss of capital, when the future was regarded. I could name a few, but very few, exceptions. Whatever the Americans mav think of their I f ^1 I 1 !■ 1 1 tl'^ \i I 110 SIX MoNllls instiriiti«nis in otlier rosprcts, \\\vro are many sen- si I >lo Americans — and I have met with them — who will acknowledge the inefficacy of these to counteract the disadvantages, not to say miseries, sometimes arising from the non-exist- ence of the law of ])rimogeniture. The object •is, to exclude the preponderance of wealth, hccause it tends to generate an aristocracy of political power. The non-existence of the law of juimogeniture is, 1 think, with great defer- ence, hut lamely defended by Chancellor Kent, in his admirable Commentaries on American Law, and which, by the way, {u*e most richly deserving of a place in every library, if it be merely on account of the learned dissertations on the history of every republic of note that has ever existed. He quotes Adam Smith in su})port of his opinions ; the Marquess Garnier, his French translator: and the IJaron de Stael L IN' AMKUK A. II I -J Ilolstoiu, — and altliou^li \\v atknow U'd^i's tlu« attoudant evils, yet ho says it woidd l)i' an error to suppose that tliey have heen already felt. IJut surely there are some which he does n(»t conteni])late in his work : hut which must he acknowledged to have a niiserahle effect uj)on the state of society. A sale, not unattended with sacritice, takes place at the decease of nearly every person who dies in possession of landed property. This is followed hy a minute division of the proceeds amongst the next of kin. As to the law of dower, it is much the same as that of England generally ; hut where the sale has been made, the produce is considered as real estate so far, and the widow receives an annuity from one third in lieu of her dower. This does not effect the distribution of the remainder, which is divided as in England. It often ha})pens, that the share oi each person. 1'^ i!: ^ ! I Ih2 !>IX MONllls U P I i ri\ i II 1} if yoim^, is just cnou^li to piircliaso liis de- struction. \'i'ry froqucntlvj Imt in some States uKU'e than others, its most prominent application is detected l)y the eft'ects of a vicious indulgence in ardent spirits, principally among the second and h)wer classes. Drunkemiess still prevails to an alarming extent, notwithstanding the benign presence of the temperate societies. I have heard the most mehincholy and appalling accounts of its ravages in private life; and in one ])lace I was informed of its disgusting in- fluence over judicial morality. The root of the evil is in the expectations which are formed : it is the certainty of actual possession of pro- perty at a future time, accompanied by igno- rance as to its amount, that so often cherishes in the children the most dissolute habits of idle- ness, with all their attendant evils. Supposing IN SMKHh A. MM liotli of tlicm ill flu' sjiinc «'.'i»iv ciicinnstjiiu'*'** ji*. country ^(MitUincn, uikI t'atluMs of fiiinilii's, liow (lirt't'ifiit must of lU'i't'sslfv lu' tlic sriitiiiu'iif** of :iii Aincricaii aixl an Mii^lisliinaii, wluii flu'V sm- voy tln'ir rt's|)<»ctivt' tire sidrs! Hoth m'c aromwl tlu'in tlicir wives aii<l cliildrcii, in tlu' posses- sion of attineniH' and eoinfort, and liappy in tiie enojovinont of eaeli other's soeii'tv. Hut in the event of his (h»ath, how irjooiny may I)e the pieture (hawn hy the one, in oppositicni to that contemplated hy the other ! A divided estate and ii dispersed family, present tliemselves to the ndnd of tlie Amerie{in ; or perhaps a small pjut of them living together, hut unahle to com- mand anv share of the luxuries, and not many of the comforts they enjoy durin*^- his lifetime, ill consequence of a secession of property hy marri.aji^e, or decrease of it from di?^sipation. The Eni2^1ishman feels a deht of gratitude to the "1 1 !f I m ! ; •f li" ii ^- 1 m I {At I 11 t S I ['lit 114 SIX >roN'ms constitution of his country : in the event of Jiis death, liis house, in the possession of his ehlest son, will be a home for his widow and a place of meetiujof for his children. His younger sons have been brought up under the idea that they are to be the architects of their own fortunes, and such a doctrine has not rendered them unhappy, because it Jias enforced tl^e virtue of contentment. The law of primogeniture per- petuates, through the eldest son, a species of parental affection and authority ; and where there is a title to descend, there is a further induce- ment to the eldest son to emulate the virtues or the actions of an illustrious father ; or, if that father has brought disgrace upon a distinguished name or sullied tlie escutcheon of a distinguished family (which, be it added, is sometimes the case), the son may be naturally desirous of wiping away the stain, and of giving tlie benefit hi^ m ls& m IN' .\Mi;i{[( A. ll.J oFhis example to society, l,y his imitation of the character of a nobler ancestor. There is yet a further deficiency of inducement to exertion existing in the American, and in every otheP democracy. In England, a young man in the enjoyment of a sufficient income, and who is consequently not obliged to labour at any profession with a view to its increase, yet with the possibility of obtaining a title, will exert his abilities to the utmost; but in America, the stimuhis of titled distinction being unknown, it must often happen that the finest talents are doomed to remain unemployed. 1 crossed the north branch of the Susque- lianna, and passed on to the town of Sunbury, on the bank of the main river, and about t;vo miles distant from Northumberland. Sunbury is a very pretty country town, with a delightful promenade along the side of the river. In all 1^- 11G SIX MONTHS I I '''I II il iii I parts of the vicinity tliere are some beautiful prospects : near it, a very hirge clam has been thrown across the stream, where, by the junction of its two branches, it spreads out, and forms a basin tliree quarters of a mile across. I ob- served some fishermen hauling their nets, and went up to them. They had taken some cat- fish, and several salmon. The cat-fish has ob- tained its name from its appearance : its head, which is out of all proportion to its body, is large and round, with the addition of two woi m- like appendages projecting beneath the eyes, like the whiskers of a cat. It is altogether a dark, ugly-looking fish ; but is eatable, with a flavour something like that of an eel, but infe- rior. In the larger western rivers it sometimes attains a weight of eighty or one hundred pounds. The fish improperly called the salmon, in no respects resembles the real salmon of !^' f IX A.MKUICA. 117 Great Britain. It lias none of the peculiaritios of tlie salnio genus ; and does not rise at a fly. In figure it is not remarkable ; in eolour it is more similar to the pike than to aiiy fish I am acquainted with. The weight of those usually taken, is about a pound ; but some of them are larger. A fly-fisher wouhl have but moderate sport on the Susquehanna ; but he might kill a great variety of fish, if he condescended to use ;; bait, and might occasionally take a large trout with a minnow. The river contains pike and eels, of immense size; trout, not numerous; rock-fish, cat-fish, suckers, common and silver perch — a beautiful fish ; and a very small species of lamprey, that is only used as a bait. The shad is also found in great quantities in this and almost all the rivers of the Eastern States. It is excellent eating, and usually weighs about four pounds; but I thoughl the flavour of th(^ Sus- voi,. ]. I f I U %■■! W:: I.-' IV. t 118 SIX MONTHS qiiehaniui salmon equal, il not siH)erior, to any fish I tasted in the United States. I sliould almost presnme that it was peculiar to that river, as I have frequently met with natives of other States who had never heard of it. At Sunbury, I chanced to be told that three Yorkshiremen had just been taken up. I would bet three to one, said I to myself, that their crime is horse-stealing ! and so it proved when I made inquiry. I here turned my steps away from the Sus- quehanna, which for placid beauty surpassed in my opinion any other river in the States, and proceeded towards Philadelphia, by way of Potts ville and Reading. Scarcely more than a year ago there were but a few houses at the former place ; but in consequence of the imme- diate vicinity of enormous beds of anthracite coal, and the improved means of conveyance 1\ A.MKHHA. IIJ) to Pliiladelphia, its size and iin})oi'tanc'o liad in- creased in a most extraordinary manner. The country around Philadelphia is very flat; so that I coukl not find a rising ground to talve a sketch from, at what I considered the best distance. But, I tliink, in passing down the river, in my way to Baltimore, I perceived a small cliff on the left bank, that would have answered the purpose, jjeing distant al^out two miles and a half. A view in a flat country requires great minuteness, if it l)e taken cor- rectly, and would have occupietl too much time ; besides, before commencing a drawing of either of the larger cities in the Union, it really l)ecame a matter of consideration, that I had but one cake of '' Newman's light red" in my colour-box. A fine steamer carried me dowu the Dela- ware. About thirty-five miles from Philadelphia, I 2 ^ n ■.; *i ♦ i 1 1 1 ''■ill 1-20 SIX .MONTHS wo })asse(l Wilmington antl nrandyvvinr. We were then landed at tlio moutli of the Cliesapeake and Delaware canal, and were towed onwfird, at a l)risk trot, in one of the canal boats, and soon entered the Elk river, near the head waters of Chesapeake bay. The coinitry was flat ; and a <^reat proportion of it was covered with forest. Here we went on board another steam-boat, that rattled us along at a tremendous pace down the Chesapeake, passing the mouth of the Sus- quehanna. The captain assured me that upon one occasion, during a camp-meeting, he had carried no less than fifteen liundred persons at a time; he landed them during the night, and about two hundred got away without paying their passage. In an hour or two, the North Point, at the entrance of the Patapsco river, became visible. General Ross land d iiere, with the British I ' IN AMKUH \. IJI tort't' (if r*000 moil, on tUv I'Jrli of Si'|)tomlK'r, 1814, and mot liis doiitli in tlio skirniisli that onsued sliortly jiftorwcirds. I rodo from Haiti- more to the spot Mdioro ho foil, marked hy a small i)lain stone-monument, by the side of the road. The last four miles out of fourteen lay through a very pretty wood, affording a most grateful shade. When we were within two miles from the city, we passed Fort Mae Henry, which was bombarded upon the same occasion, almost from the extremity of the range of a shell. Some of them, where they fell, penetrated the ground to a depth of five or six feet. Baltimore, when viewed from the Chesa- peake, appears to be built over several low hills, or slopes, and surrounded by others that are considerably higher. Its situation is much finer than that of Philadelphia. It is not so fine as i^ 3X I I ■! '-m:^ 1-2-2 SIX MONTHS lljat of New York ; l)ut in some rospocts, is, I think, superior to Boston. Wlien apj)roache(l by water, tlic most conspicuous olyects are — Washington's monument, the shot-towers, the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the Unitarian church, all scattered in different parts of the city. Washington's monument is a plain co- lumn of marble, raised on a square base, 175 feet in height, and surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington. It is seen from a great distance on every side, and commands the finest and inost extensive prospect; but I am very much inclined to doubt the taste that placed any other than an allegorical oliject on the top of a lofty pillar. The size of the column, and its simplicity, are calculated to excite admiration; but in my humble judgment, it would have been much better to have had a really fine statue placed inside the base of the column, than to IN AMKUICA. I-2.J |)(»rc'li tlio (fiMic ' ii|)(>ii a luMjrlit that would make a liviiiu- Admiral feed liiddv. Lord Hill's moniimo mcmor lit, noar Shrowshury, and diat to tlio y of (renoral Brock, at Qiioonstown, are, I think, ohjectionablo, for the same reasons. The battle monument is mueli prettier, although it is somewhat florid in its ornaments : it is fifty-four feet in height. The column is a cir- cular fasces, symbolical of the Union, twined round with fillets, bearing the names of those who fell on the 12th and 13th of September, 1814; and supporting an allegorical statue of a female, personifying the city of Baltimore, with a bald eagle, the United States' emblem, at her side. The Archbishop of Maryland is the me- tropolitan of the States. The Catholic cathedral is a handsome building, with a dome in imitation of the Pantheon. The inside, which is divided into pews, contains two very good pictures from '*). i 124 SIX MON'IIIS the Fivncli school : a tU»«ceiit from the cross, by Paul Guerin, presented hy Louis X\'I.; and St. Louis hurvinyr his dead officers and sohliers before Tunis, by Steaben, presented by Charles X. The descent from the cross is much and deservedly admired. It has the merit of being- free from that tedious detail that is usually to be observed in tlic works of French artists, who paint every thing as it is, and not as it appears. It occurred to me, that the body of Christ did not sufficiently rest on the ground, as intended. The latter picture displays more of the French taste. I did not like it so well, but many prefer it to the other. At Baltimore, is the University of Maryland, which ranks very high as a medical school. The average expenses of a student are one hundred and twenty dollars j)er annum. It has also professors in law and divinity. St. Mary's College and Baltimore I '1 IN A>i KK A. i'r» ('(>ll('i;o iiri' i\Uo justly irl ' if*Ml Tiuout^liout llic Uni(m; tlu' lattor will acroinnKulatf «mo Imiulrocl and fifty studciits, \\'li(» are iiistrut'trd, by twelve professors, in the ancient and modern languages, mathematics, natural philosophy, ike. The city also contains a good museum, which I did, and many more public buildings, which I did not visit, as I could not learn that there was any tiling in them particularly deserving of attention. The theatre was not o})en. The waters of the Chesapeake and the l*atapsco are the favourite resort of the canvas- back duck, which I had always been told was the greatest delicacy imaginable ; and, " like nothing else, sir ! I assure ye ! " The sporting commences early in November, and affords most excellent sport. An experienced shot will some- m i :| ti ■ si Il>(i SIX MONTHS M times kill tlircc do/en in a nioniiii^' wifli ;i siiii»lt' i»UM ; and (Krasidiially tlu'V an* shot on the win<r with a siiiolo rifle. I'Ik' canvas-hack duck very much rcscnihlcs the rtMl-headed ui«^*e(>n, or common dnn-hird. Lucien Bonaparte, who has so well continued Wilson's work on American Ornithology, has successfully shown that it is quite u diflercnt bird. It is about halt" as large again, with a black and different formed bill and black legs. Those of the red-headed wigeon are of a dark lead colour. They breed on the bor- ders of the great lakes, or about Hudson's Bay ; but ill the winter months, they are found in prodigious quantities on the Chesapeake, the Patapsco, and the Potamac. Its flavour is owing to the root of the Vallissneria Americana, or wild celery, on which it feeds, and for which it will dive to a depth of eight or ten feet. The red-headed wigeon, when in company with the I I IN AMKHUA. i-j: (•jinvas-l);u'l\, will often wiiit till it li;is y\sou fvom the bottom, and tlicn siiatt'li tVom it tlu' liaid- oariied inorsi'l. Tin' ^xms rim/ifs of Anu-rica, talk of the canvas-hacU with an iiitoront that holders on artVction, and is sonu'tinios viTv amusinu'. " JSir," said an old follow to nu», '' I wished to g-ivc a diiek feast, and accordingly Ihoni'ht, nine eonple of them, all fresh killed, and all of the right weight. 1 stuffed them into every corner of my gig; and would not suffer the cook to touch them, e\cej)t in my presi-nce. I drcss(>d them all myself, in different ways, in my parlour, so as to have tliem all done according to figure, sir! Well, sir! all my company had arrived, except an old Clerman ; we could not wait, and sat down witliout him. Wlien he came, he exclaimed, * Wliat ! noshing l)ut duckhs ! ' I started up in a rage, sir ! a violent rage, sir ! * Noshhig but duckhs ! ' I repeated after him : i^' : U i } II l!>8 SIX MONTHS \'M W iV Wliy, you (i (1 old scoundrel, said I, your own Emperor of Austria never had such a diinier : he could not, sir, though he gave the l)est jewel in his crown for it." I tasted these birds several times before I quitted America, and they certainly are extremely good. The meat is dark, and should be sent to table under- done, or what in America is called "rare." I think the flavour might be imitated by a piece of common wild duck, and a piece of fine juicy \'enison, tasted at the same time. The word " rare" used in that sense, and which is given by Johnson, on the authority of Dryden, is no doubt one of many which have retained in America, a meaning in which they are not now used in England, but which was doubtless car- ried over the Atlantic by the settlers of a hundred years ago. I confess that I was for some time in error. I hearil every one around I\ AMl'liKA. I-Ji) mo i^iviiig orders that his moat should ho " raro,' and I thought it a mispronunciation of tho word raw. The environs of Baltimore are excoedini^ly pretty: ahnost every eminence is crowned with a country liouse, surrounded by gardens and pleasure grounds richly wooded, and laid out to the best advantage, so as generally to afford a j)eep through the trees at some part of tho Patapsco, or the Chesapeake. They are admir- ably ada})ted for a fete champe tre, or a strawberry party, as it is called at Baltimore. I had tho honour of an invitation to the only one that was given during my stay in that city. The com- pany assembled about six o'clock. Quadrilles and waltzes were kept up with great spirit, first on the lawn, and then in the house till abo :t eleven. In tho moan time strawberries and cream, ices, pine apples, and champagne, were M.:l !1*' ■'■\M I 'I I k ! m H. " !l ■5 ■•' i f I .41 .. ,11 lao SIX MONTHS served up in the j^reatest profusion. 1 had understood, and am cpiite ready to admit, that Baltimore deservedly enjoys a higli r(»})utation for female beauty. I am speaking of the American ladies in general, when I remark that it is no injustice to them to maintain, that where you will see twenty pretty girls, you will not see one really handsome woman. I have frequently observed the prettiest features, — such as more reminded me of England, than of any other country ; but I think that most Europeans who have formed a correct taste from the "stone ideal'* of Greece, would agree with me that ladies with pretensions to that higher degree of beauty, are not so often to be met with in America as in England. There is one particular in which they would do well to imitate my fair countrywomen. They have great charms for the breakfast table ; but yet, elegant and lady-like as many of them 1 IS; IN A.MKUU'A. |:U iiudoiihrcdly are, liow often liavo T boon coin- ])ollo(l to wisli, that the l)reaktast table had not quite so many charms for them. Tliey must know that to eat is unfeminine; and that ladies should in the presence of gentlemen, appear veri/ hungry, is a decided proof of a deficiency in national manners, — jnst as much, or eveu more so, than that men, be they who or what they may, should sit with their hats on in the dress circle at New York. The influence of a court would extend to, and would remedy all this. I should here again remark, that the first society is seldom seen at the theatre, and would not be guilty of such beliaviour. It is a matter of great surprise to a stranger, that there is not one single promenade at Balti- more. There are some very eligible situations immediately adjoining the city, and which to all appearane«:> are so easily convertible into a ])ublic ^l' wl\ ^'i''' ' '■■M .^* f* I; •\ r *• ^ 1 f 1 ■1 iy "i'. -1. > ■ t \ •'.■I ■ ; ■ iVt Ji \. I 1 ' , I,- ^y] .) I ''^: \&2 SIX MONTHS walk, tluit it is difficult to understancl why the ladies do not insist upon its commencement. I would most humbly advise them to do so. I was honoured with an invitation to " the Manor," the country residence of Mr. Carroll, of Carrollton. The house was built long before the revolution, and is a curious specimen of Anglo-American architecture, somewhat resem- bling one of those large old parsonage houses which are to be seen in some parts of England. It stands in the midst of an extensive domain, in a high state of cultivation, and extremely well and neatly kept, considering that it is worked by slaves. I could have fancied myself in England, but for the loose zigzag fences of split logs, which offer to the eye but a poor apology for the English hedge row. Hedges of any kind would not, generally speaking, thrive well hi the United States. It would be neces- IN .\.ML:I{[( A. \iy-) sarv, I was told, tlmf thov sliould \)v hjuikcd up, in order to koop tlioin from l)oiiiij;' waslied away l)y tlic lit'avy rains ; and it is proUablc that during tlio oxtromo heat of the summer months, they could not obtain moisture sufficient to preserve them from being dried up entirely. They are, however, often to be seen close to a gentleman's liouse, where they can be constantly attended to. I should conceive that the aloe hedges of Spain and Portugal, might succeed in the United States. It is neitlier a fault, nor a misfortune, that there is no water scenery at " the Manor." The rivers and lakes of America are usually on a vast and magnificent scale, fitted either to bound or to deluge a contii^ent ; small streams are also common ; but a lake for instance of a mile or two in length, is seldom to be seen, excepting in New England, where they are plentiful. Before I arrived there, I do not think M] m I *''! VOL. T. K ft! ^? 'li m !i '. Illlh;! 134 SIX MONTHS tliat I liad socii more than halt" a dozen ponds, and those all in Kentuckv. Instead of beino: thon<;ht an advantaL»-e, a piece of water is avoided ; no American, from clioice, vvouhl build on its banks, as the exhalations in the hot weather render such a situation very \ndiealtliy, excepting* in the more northerly states. At the manor I "partook of that hospitality which is so kindly and universally extended to every foreigner who visits Baltimore with a proper letter of introduction. Mr. Carroll himself, is the most extraordinary individual in America. This venerable old gentleman is in his ninety- fifth year, is exceedingly cheerful, enjoys most excellent health, and is in good possession of his faculties. He is the only survivor of the patriots who signed the Declaration of Independence on the 4tli of July, 1776. He has always adhered to the federal principles, and his valuable estate n ^ t I\ A.MKKICA. 1 or, is one of the very few that have (k^sceiuled u\ a direct line from tlic first possessor. Mr. Carroll is the grandfather of the Ladies Wellesley and Caermartlien. No one who visits Baltimore shoidd omit seeing the vessels known by the name of elij)- pers. They are uncommonly neat single-decked schooners usually, hut sometimes are rigged like a brig. Their biu'den is commoidy about 200 tons. They are cut remarkably sharp at the bows, with a great breadth of beam. When lying in the water, the head is considerably elevated above the stern, so that, although the masts are nearly at right angles with the hull, they appear to rake much more than thej'^ really do. They will sail on a wind at the rate of seven knots an hour, when other fast sailing vessels can make only five and a half, or six ; but few of them are good sailers before the wind. They K 2 r r '* L 'in ^^ 'I I ■',1' , »■ »f.' ^1.: \M j ' ii ! ' 1 111 I' 'II 'I 11 *:i ]] 1.30 SFX MO Nil IS usually uiako a voyau'c to the Ilavaunali, where tliey are sold tor slave ships, or to South America, where they are bought by sniui^i^lers or pirates, for whose oecupatious they are ad- mirably adapted. They are built nowhere so .well as at Baltimore. IVo rail-rojuls had been commenced at Balti- more : one called the Baltimore and Ohio rail- road, because it was intended to join that river. The exact line of country through which it would pass, was as yet a secret with a select few, who w^ould thus be able to secure from the owners a refusal of the land through which it passed without being obliged to pay an increased price. The other is called the Susquehanna rail-road, and was mtended to join that river at York-haven, about sixty miles below Harris- burg. Deputations have been sent from Balti- more to Philadelphia, to obtain the necessary ..1 -v^ r. ;i I\ A.Mr.MK A. in: it eel na ;^ev is- ti- ry permission to carrv it into i\w stjito of IVnnsvl- vania: Imt tlicir applifjitions have boon, 1 was iiifoniK'd, twice rot'ust'd. Tlio rail-road, liuwever, is still co!itimio<l, from a \\'i'll-<»-roimd«.'d persua- sion that the iuhahitaiits of the western parts of Pennsylvania, convinced of the advjuitages that will accrue to them by its aftordino- tliem an- other means of carriai>e for their bituminous coal, iron, and timber, will ultimately succeed in obtaining" a majority in Congress in favour of its completion. But does not a jealousy of this kind arise, after a contemplation, however distant, of the political horizon? Has it not a prospective reference to the interest of the State separately, when the federal government shall be no more ? By the constitution of Maryland the governor docs not possess the right of a veto over the Acts of the general assembly. 1... ■ .5 f J ,,'f ^ l|^ i; :i ■ n i fi I IH ' li lit 108 SIX .MON'IIIS Moro flour is uimiially inspected at Halti- moiv, than at any other port in tlie Tnited States excepting New York. The amount tor the year 1830, was 597,804 barrels ; hut l)y the returns made since the first of January, 18.*31, it is supposed that the quantity in tliis } car will exceed 600,000 ])arrels. The wheat that is shipped, is sent almost exclusively to England ; but it bears a very small proportion to the flour, although it sells better in the English market — about 70,000 bushels of wheat were shipped this year for England. The quality in general is good, excepting that a portion of it is some- times tainted with garlick; a nuisance that is almost unavoidable, because the plant grows spontaneously in the wheat districts. It is said to have been first introduced by the Hessians, during the revolutionary war, and it has since increased so much, that it cainiot he got rid of. ''I IN A.MMUK.V. I: J!) t *i The wlioat oxpoitcd tVoin IJaltimoro is thrown ill the State of Maiyhnid, and in many p.'irts of N'irginia and l\'nnsylvania. Money had ])eon plentiful for the last two years, and invest- ments that would ])roduee five per cent, were not ejisily to he met with. A market over- stocked with imports from Euroj)e and India, was the assiti;*nal)le cause : trade was com})ara~ tively less brisk, and many cjipitalists withdrew their funds from active business, for the purpose of investment in the stock of bank insurance and rail-road companies. A great quantity of money was likewise lying in the market in con- sequence of the national debt being* in a course of reduction by the payment of government loans. However, when 1 was there, money was more scarce, and worth more than six per cent. ; the exchange on England had risen as high as eleven per cent, per annum, and a large quantity of specie had been exported to that country. f i I i Jl- tar 'A V i I 140 MX MOMIIS At Ualtimoii', I Hist saw tlio Hiv-fly. They bogiri to aj)j)i'ar about smiscf, after wliicli tlioy are sparkliii<i^ in all dirt'ftioMs. In soino places ladies will wear them in their hair, and the effect is said to he very brilliant. Mischievous boys will sometimes cat-h a bnll-froi^, and fasten them all over him. They show to great advan- tage, while the poor frog, who cannot understand the "new lights" that are breaking upon him, affords amusement to his tormentors by hoi)ping about in a state of desperation. About thirty miles from Baltimore, on the western shore as it is termed, stands Annai)olis the capital of Maryland. It is situated at the bottom of a fine bay, and contains several curious old houses, built long before the revo- lution. The most conspicuous object is the capitol, which is surmounted by a fine steeple. The general assembly of Maryland, hold their IN A.MKUK A. Ill sittings iIkto, jukI it was thvw tliat (Ioium-jiI \\ asliiiiL»"t(>n ri'siir-iu'd to tlic federal e()iii»Tess the cuininaiul he had so iiohlv used. It sat there for some time after the iiKh-peiideiiee of the United States was estahlislii'd. At Hahimore, I visited tlie studies of two very promising' young" artists: Mr. Iluhard, an Englisliman, is certainly the better painter; hut has the advantage of four or five years of expe- rience over Mr. Miller, who is an American, quite {I boy ; and whom, I think, at least an equal genius. He has had little or no instruc- tion. If sent to Kurope, as he certainly ought to bo, I will venture to predict, that at some future period he will be an ornament to his native city ; and which he certairdy never will, or can be, if he does not leave it. Will it be credited, that in America, with all her preten- sions to good sense and general encouragement \y. r. I f ' 1 r 14-2 SIX MONTHS I of emulation and enterprise, the voice of public opinion is a bar to the advantage of drawing from a living model ? Without it, historical painting cannot thrive, and sculpture must be out of the question. I left Baltimore with regret: I had been kindly and hospitably treated there, — and in a few hours the mail carried me to Washington. This city of distances — this capital that is to be — is laid out upon an open piece of undulating down, on the north side of the Potomac. The capitol of the United States is built upon the most lofty l)art of it, wh'.ch is ascended by a fine flight of steps, and altogether has a very imposing appear- ance, being visible at a great distance from almost every side. It is of free-stone, which is found on the river about thirty miles below the city. In front is a magnificent portico of Corhithian columns, and behind it there is another: in the IN A.MEllICA. 14:i same style, (though larger), as that at Wanstead House in Essex, or Wentworth Castle in York- shire, which is a copy of W^anstead. On the top are three domes ; that in the centre would look a great deal better if it were deeply fluted, like the dome of St. Paul's ; at present it would be much better out of the way, as it gives a general appearance of heaviness, to what would other- wise be deservedly thought a very fine building. From the balustrade is obtained a delightful view of the river, and the surrounding country. The centre of the interior of the capitol, is occupied by a large open space under the dome, containhig four pictures, that look very well at a little distance : the subjects are the Signing of the Declaration of Independence, the Surrender of General Burgoyne, the Surrender of Lord Cornwallis ; and General Washington resigning his command at Annapolis. They are pahited it' 1 ' » i^ ! i i; if.; B? 1 I I 144 SIX ."vroNTiis 11 If h *i I IJ by Col. Triimhull. I'he remainder of tlie ca})i- tol is occupied by tlie apartments and offices connected with tlie senate, the house of repre- sentatives, and the supreme com't of the United States. The pillars which support the roof of the chamber of representatives, are of breccia, or pudding-stone; perhaps the most singular formation of the kind that is to be found any- where, not excepting that at Monserrat in Span: which is entirely composed of breccia. Frag- ments of granite, quartz, limestone, and other rocks, have been pressed together in the most extraordinary manner, by some stupendous power, and from a little distance the composition might be mistaken for the verd antique. It is found on the Potomac, about thirty miles above Washington. The president's house is a hand- some building, with an Ionic portico; and the onlv one in the States that reseml '^s the mo- ;li ■ 1 IX AMERICA. 145 dern resitloncc of a British iiohlemaii. It is exactly at the distance of one mile and a half in a straight line from tlie capitol, and the houses are continued beyond it for nearly another. Numerous large streets radiate from the capitol and the president's house, as centres — a method of laying out a city far handsomer than that which has been adopted at Philadel- phia, where the streets cross each other at right angles. Who that lias seen the " Pers})ective " at Petersburg, can ever forget it? where the principal streets are all pointed towards the beautifully gilt steeple of the Admiralty, that is seen glittering at the end of each of them. It must be allowed that this arrangement has its disadvantages in the shfipe of the houses, and apartments, one end of which, if they are regularly divided, must be larger than the other. 1^ i i II a », I ; ': I . 14() SIX MONTHS In tlio clock-yard at Washington, I saw a sixty-gun frigate in a state of forwardness, and a small schooner constructed on a plan that had never been applied to a vessel of war, being of the same shape fore and aft, and having no internal timbers. The blocks made there, are not all of one piece, as they are at our dock-yard at Portsmouth. A double block for instance, is composed of seven pieces of wood, exclusively of the sheave. They are, no doubt, much stronger when made in this manner ; but a man can make but one in half an hour. The college at George Town, adjoining the city, is a Catholic establishment; its members are Jesuits, and who, as usual, are increasing their influence, by purchasing lands, &c. At- tached to the college, is the nunnery of the Sisters of Visitation, containing about fifty nuns. They tell there of a Hohenlohe miracle. I l\ IN AMERICA. 147 Wasliinu^ton, like most of the American cities, can boast of several beautiful rides and walks in its vicinity. Arlinoton, the seat of George Washington P. Castis, Esq., occupies a most conspicuous and commanding situation, on the south bank of the Potomac. It is visible for many miles, and in the distance has the appearance of a superior English country resi- dence, beyond any phice I had seen in the States: but as I came close to it, as usual, I was wofully disappointed. It contains a valu- able portrait of Washington, when a Major in the British service, and wearing of course the blue-and-buff uniform. Not far from the race ground, and about three miles from George Town, is the residence of a gentleman who has paid greater and more indefatigal)le attention to the culture of the vine than any other person in America. The vine- It f'i re i 0:. K 'I n M I ■: i ' I i t I 14H SIX .MONTHS yards c'lromul liis lioiise produce several different kinds of graoes; from vviiicli, considering how few years liave elapsed since the attempt was first made, he may be said to have been very successful in producing some very good and palatable wines. Amongst others, the best is dignified by the very aristocratic name of " Tokay." It is made from the " Catawba " grape, which he himself first found in a cot- tager's garden, not far from a tavern bearing the sign of the Catawba Indians, distant about twenty miles from Washington. From this circumstance he called it the Catawba grape. The Catawba is a river of South Carolina, but no grape of the kind is found near it. The cottagers coidd give him no satisfactory account of it, and he never could find out whether it was indigenous, or, which is most likely the fact, im- ^ >rted. It is rather a large gnipe, thick-skinned, 'I .' IN AMERFCA. 149 but at the same time very transparent, witli a fine purple hlusli, and far more fit for making wine than to form part of a dessert. As yet it appears to thrive lietter than any kind of grape that has be n '^ried in the United States; so much so. that at Pittsburgh, and Lancaster, and other places where there are vineyards, they have cleared away a large proportion of the European plants, in favour of the Catawba vine. He informed me that he had sent cuttings of it to every State in th« Union excepting Florida, Arkansaw, and Kentucky. A long time, how- ever, must elapse before the Americans can compete with the wines of Europe : as yet, com- paratively speaking, little can be known there, either with reference to the best fruit, or to the soil and temperature necessary to bring it to perfection. Upwards of seventy kinds of the wild vine are found in the American forests, but VOL. J. L m :^.if' u '•> H' I H I 150 SIX MONTMS not more llian lialf of them bear fruit. At Boston I tasted a ^nipe called the Isabella p^rape, whose flavour was still harsh, but was a ^Teat and deeiiled improvement in every respect, upon the sourness of the fox-grape of the woods, from which, I was informed, it had been orig-inally produced. I am, of course, speakin<^ of the Catawba and other grapes, only in their wine- making capacity ; the grapes raised in the United Stp^es for the table, are exceedingly good and very plentiful. As a matter of course, I visited Mount Vernon. A steam-boat conveyed me to Alexan- dria in an hour. Alexandria was t;iken by the Britisli squadron on the 29th of August, 1814, and the stores of flour, tobacco, and cotton, were carried ofi* by them. It contains a population of 9000 persons, and carries on a trade in flour, tobacco, fish, and lumber, to the southern States i ■!ir IN AMi:i!Il A. 151 I . and the West Indies, although Haltimorc lias run away with the greater part of its commerce. A ride of nine miles on a well-shaded road, conducted me to Mount Vernon, now in pos- session of John Augustine \\'a^hington. Esq,, nephew to the General, and to the late Judge, whose worth and learning are recorded by. an inscri{)tion in the court-house of Philadelphia. Of the house itself there is little to be said. I saw there a piece of an old mug, which bears upon it a small head of the General, said to be the best likeness of him that is known anywhere. From the lawn, there is a fine view of the Potomac with Fort Washington nearly oi)posite, which was abandoned at the approach of the British squadron in 1814. In passing Mount Vernon, the ships fired a salute it well deserved. I must confess that I was greatly disappointed at the sight of the tomb that contains the ashes I r ; •!• li '* ■ ti -M !#l 'M 152 SIX MONTHS of Waslkiiigton. I did not exi)oc't ^randour, but I tlioiiglit to liavo seen sonietliliig' more respect- al)le than either tlie old, or the new toml), to which the coffin was removed two years ago. But for the inscription, I shouhl have tal^en them for a couj)le of ice-houses. An avoidance of every tiling- like ])retension is desirable only so lono; as it is attended with neatness ; — but there is not even what can be fairly called a path to either of them. Instead of feeling as 1 wished, whilst in contemplation of the last long- home of this really great, because good man, my mind was only occupied by intrusive reflections on the insignificant and pauper-like appearance of the whole scene before me. The tears of La Fayette, when visiting the tomb in 1825, might have partly flowed from other sources than the mere consciousness that he was standing in the presence of the mortal remains of Iiis ■ i IN A.MEinCA. 15:3 old fritMul and companion in arms. Tlicro has been some talk of removini»- the eoffin to the centre of the hall in the eapitol, and of a monn- ment to he raised over it, hnt I have nnderstood that it is not serionsly contemplated. If it were jdaced there, it mij^ht one (hiy he the mejnis of savin<r the Union. How forcihle, how effective, in a moment of danger, might he an ehxjuent appeal to its presence, made hy the Judges of the supreme court, or the orators of the American congress ! I was never fortunate enouiih to hear a mocking bird in its wild state ; I had frequently heard them in cages, but nowhere in such })er- fection as at Washington. This bird, oi'e of the noblest in nature, is an inhabitant of tlie southern states only, and is thus described by Wilson, the celebrated Ornithologist. " The plumage of the mocking bird would scarcely M I/, ■K ^ ■,t' •I ;t ■ il .iT^ m : I, mPl m 1 1 . 'i i- i 1 ; ■'. f. m r II 1 r' m I I. ( 154 SIX MON'lliS ontitir liini to noficc, but liis fioiirc is woll proportioned, and t'ven Iwmdsoine. The easo, elegance, aiul rapidity of his movements — the animation of his eye, and the intelli<^ence he displays in listening* and layini;- up lessons from almost every speeies of the feathered race within his hearin<^, are really surprising, and mark the snperiority of his genius, lie has a voice capable of almost every modulation, from the clear mellow notes of the M'ood-thrush, to the savage scream of the bald-eagle. In measure and accent, he faithfully follows his originals; in force and sweetness of expression, he greatly improves upon them : his admirable song rises paramount over every competitor. His own native notes are bold and full, and varied beyond all limits. In the height of his song, his ardour and animation appear unbounded — he sweeps round with enthusiastic ecstasv — he mounts or IN AMi:illLA. 155 (lesceiuls us liis song- swt'lis or dit's away ; and us my tVuMid Mr. IJarrram, (an AnuMR'an naturalist), lias hcaiititully (Wprt'sscd it: "ho l)ounds idott witii tia* ra|)idiry of an arrow, as it* to rt't'ovcr (»r recall Jiis wry soul, rxpircd in the last c'li" itcd strain. While thus exertinjr hiinselt", a hy-staadei destitute of sij^ht would suppose, that the whole ; ithered tiihe had assembled to<;"ether, v. eh strivinj^ io ])roduee his utnujst effort, so perfect are his iuutatioii^, IJe many times deceives the sportsman, and sends him in search of hirds that are not within a mile of him, but whose notes he exactly imitates. Even birds themselves are imposed n}»on by his admiruble it asic, and are decoyed by the fancied calls of tiieir mates, or are driven with precij)ita- tion into the depths of the forest, at the screams of what they suppose to be the sparrow-hawk." He is of a size between the thrush and the ■■ f' ;• -. 4 ill X i* 1 1 lit' fianii 1 1 I. J' ^ - J 156 SIX MONTHS nightingale, but shaped like the latter bird. His plumage in general is of a cinerous brown colour, with a broad l)ar of white on the wing, which he is very fond of displaying. I am afraid that I never heard them in perfection ; but to judge from what I did hear, I should suppose that although infinitely more varied, his natural notes were neither so full nor so rich as those of the nightingale. But there are many who think differently." One morning I was much amused by the debut of a new volunteer corps, calling them- selves the Highlanders, — Washington being one of the flattest places in the States. The dress would have looked well enough had it been uniform, but I was told there was not plaid enough of the same pattern to be obtained in the city. The bonnet had a . ery theatrical appear- ance, and would not have been half so bad, had 1 1 ■■' IN A.MERH \. 157 not tlie eye been tittracted by the waistcoat and the broad hicings of the coat, all of which were of a very dark sky-blue. I have a great respect for the tartan ; and 1 thought it might have looked decent, even when converted, as it was, into small-clothes, had they not been made extremely tight. Still, however, the costume of the nether man might have passed unnoticed, had not the enormous bows at the knees been composed of tri-coloured ribbon, and the general effect much heightened by the long nankeen gaiters, which covered the leg from the knee to the shoe. In the capitol, as all the world knows, sit the senate, the house of representatives, and the supreme court of the United States. And here I may be permitted to remark, that when writing generally on such a subject as the United States, every ciuidid ])erson will make allow- •at 5 J' ■ ! *i;! 1 t!Hi' ' l.jfc< SIX Months ances for the impossibility of avoiding a repe- tition of things ah-eady well known and well described. Under the a})prehension that I shall frequently be in error on this head, I think the safest mode is to apologise at once, and before- hand. None, however, is necessary for not entering at large upon a subject so tedious and so endless, as that of the courts of the difterent states in their separate capacity as to the federal judiciary. 1 may mention, that the United States are divided into seven judicial cncuits, and thirty- two judicial districts. Each state is one district, with the exceptions of New York, Penn- sylvania, Virginia, Tennessee, Louisiana, and Alabama ; which are each of them divided into two districts. There are three courts belonging to the general or federal government : the district court, the circuit court, and the supreme court. The district court possesses a civil and criminal i .m IN A.MKKKA. 159 admiralty ami maritime jurisdiction, and also takes cognizance of all cases affecting the re- venue, and all crimes and offences committed within the district, which are j)unlshal)le by moderate corporal punishment, or fine and im- prisonment. It is held l)y a district judge (there being one in each district), sitting alone,- four times a year: his salary varies from 1000 to 3000 dollars a year. An appeal lies from his decision in cases where, exclusive of costs, the matter in dispute exceeds the sum or value of fifty dollars, to the " circuit court," possessing an original jurisdiction, civil and crinunal. The civil jurisdiction extends to all controversies between citizens of different states, and between a citizen and an alien. All offences against the penal laws of the United States, can be tried in this court. It is rdso a court of equity. The circuit court is hehl before the district judge. 1:' ^». 1^? I, U III ill I Si IGO SIX MONTHS sitting twice a year witli the judge of the supreme court. An appeal lies from its decisions to tlie supreme court of the United States, where the matter in dispute exceeds 2000 dollars. In criminal cases, a point may be reserved for the opinion of the judges of the supreme court, which is sent down to the circuit court to be proceeded upon afterwards. In six of the states, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, there is no circuit court, because the judges of the supreme court could not find time to sit there twice a year ; but the district courts possess the powers and jurisdiction of a circuit court. The supreme court of the United States, is a very high and honourable tribunal, composed of a chief justice, with a salary of 5000 dollars (1125/.), and six associate justices, with a salary of 4500 dollars each, who hold a sitting once a : ' t: t IN AMERICA. 1(>1 'id II year, at Washinirton, commencing on the second Monday in January. The court sits five hours every day for two montlis, deciding in that time usually about eighty causes, which are reportetl as those of the law courts in England used, and ought still to be, by an officer of the court. Its original jurisdiction is confined to all such cases, affecting ambassadors, consuls, and vice- consuls, as a court of law can exercise consist- ently with the hiw of nations ; and it has original, but not exclusive jurisdiction of all suits brought by ambassadors, and other public ministers, in which a consul or vice-consul is a party. But its dignity rests chiefly on its appellate jurisdic- tion, which extends to all cases and appeals, and writs of error from the circuit courts: likewise in all cases where the constitution and law- of the federal government, or the construction of any treaty entered into by the federal govern- M w p> I . ■I !i *' % 16-2 SIX Moxrns ment, or its validity, or any right or interest under a treaty, has been a subject of contro- versy in the state tribunals. Its decisions and opinions on the construction of the constitution, are the safeguard of the Union. But its appel- late jurisdiction is defined, and extends to no cases but where the j)ovver is affirmatively given. In order to enable it to issue a mandamus, proof is required that it is an exercise, or necessary to an exercise, of its appellate juris- diction. The supreme court has jurisdiction in all controversies where the United States shall be a party in controversies between two or more states ; between a state and the citizens of another state; between citizens of different states; between citizens of the same state claim- ing lands under grants of different states; and between a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens, or subjects. A strict and I\ AMKliU A. Ki.J admirable attention to justice, is ol)serval)le in these arrangements. Every descri})tion of case which might be partially decided l)y the courts of the litigant states, is brought to tl '^ bar of the great national tribunal to be disposed of. During the last sittings of the supreme court, a case of great constitutional interest. Avas heard before it. It was entitled " The Cherokee Nation, irr.ms the State of Georgia." The Cherokee nation having been repeatedly har- assed by the incursions and other unneighbourly proceedings of the inhabitants of Georgia, applied to the supreme court for an injunction to restrain the state, its governor, and other officer*:,, from executing and enforcing the laws of Georgia within the Cherokee territory. The counsel for the Cherokees argued, that not being a state of the Union, the Cherokee nation was to be considered as a foreign state, and was ren- mr liiii t. , '■'■'I- . ',k *■ ^ ■-■'A V i«. I n ;«a!l I 1 %: !l, I .' ir ^fe I .^ H; 4 164 SIX MONTHS I ■ i«" ; (lored capable of suing in the supreme court l)y virtue of the clause I have mentioned above, in which the judicial power of the court is extended to controversies between a state and the citizens thereof, and foreign states' citizens or subjects : but Chief Justice Marshall decided, that the relation of the Cherokees to the United States resembled that of guardian aiul ward ; thiit they could not be considered either as a foreign state, or as a state of the Union ; and that there- fore they were rendered incapable of suing in that court. His judgment was strengthened by tlie wording of the articles of the onstitu- tion, in which Congress is empowered to regu- late commerce with foreign nations, and the several states and the " Indian tribes," who being in this manner specifically mentioned, could not have been considered as a foreign state or nation by the original framers of the w o IN A Ml. RFC A. k;: ;> I'oiistitutioM. Iin;i*^iiu' the astoiiislmuMit oi tho poor Cherokces upon l)C'iii<jf told, that the liighest tribunal ut the city of their Ireat Father could afford them no redress. The affair will, of course, come before congress. Chief Justice Marshall decided according to the letter of the constitution ; but the opinion of Chancellor Kent, of New York, is surely deserving of the greatest attention, as containing an exposition apparently more agreeable to justice. He con- siders the Indian tribes " not only as states, but as foreign states, because they do not constitute any ingredient or essential part of our own body politic." He considers the clause just referred to, may have contained the additional grant of power to regulate commerce with the " Indian tribes" out of abundant caution, and to prevent any possible doubt of the application to them of the power to regulate commerce with VOL. I. M il. II ■vwm'\ r J^ ii tli: U)(i SIX MONTHS "foroi^n iintioiis." Tlir last words, he appro- lieiids, would have reached the Indians; but the constitution, in several other instances, has gone into a like specification of powers which were, hy necessary implication, included in the more ^;eneral tyrant. Thus, for instance, j)ower is jriven to congress " to declare war," and it is immediately subjoined " to grant letters of marque and reprisal." They have power to " coin money," and " to regulate the value thereof:" they have power " to raise armies," and " to provide and maintain a navy : " and it is immediately subjoined " to make rules for the government " (and not government only, but it is added) " and regulation of the army and land force." All the judges in the American courts enjoy an immunity from wigs, and the judges of the supreme court alone are clothed in " silk attire." !. '"^ IN \Mi:in( \. Ui7 >) m the |e. )> 'I'licir rolxs nrc l>l{irk, niul t'ashioiiotl acconliii*; to the taste of the wearer. I examined tour or five of them which were lian<(ing up in the court, and found that although perfectly judicial, tliey displayed no small attention to taste in their cut and generjil appearance. A proper degree of dignity is required and observed in the supreme court ; business is there conducted as it ought to be in every court of justice; but some of the state courts are remarkably deficient in this respect : even in the court-house at Philadelphia, during the sitting of the circuit court, I have seen a gentleman, a counsellor of eminence, coolly seat himself on the table whilst a judgment was being given, and in that attitude I have heard him address some interlocutory observations to the court, and press them upon its attention with great earnestness and ability. I cannot understand why more dignity, both M 2 ^. i ■i: 'Hi I()H Kr; Ai*»MHS > ii I judicial and forcnsii-, slioiild not he ol)S(>rv(»(i in tlu' tMMirrs oi' the United Sfati's. I liavc ot'fiMi Iku'm ill tlie company of American lawyers, who, as individujils, were men of t^entlemjinly man- ners, and excellent general information, wliicli •they have ever evinced a readiness to impart; hut I do not rememher one wlio ever mentioned the sul)ject at all, without admittinjif that a proper want of the respect due to the time and the place is frequently but too visible in the American courts: and yet there is no improve- ment. Silence, being indispensable, is well pre- served; but counsel and attorneys may be oc- casionally seen with their legs dangling over the back of a chair, or possibly resting on the table. A corresponding carelessness of manner is of course exhibited by the spectators. I have even observed persons with their hats on IN AMKIJK A. K!!) .F..» ^^K^ ill c'oiirf, iiii({ ii|>4)u iiKHjiry liavi* hcoii told tin y wcro Quakers: luit onci" or twk'v I rtincmlur liciv'in*^- tiiktMi the liberty of doiibfiiii*- rlic iiitor- mutioii. I hope I shall nut ho su|n>ose(l to mean, that no greater (U'corum is ohserved in the princi])al courts of the larger cities than in those liehl at places of minor importance ; 1 am speaking- of them generally as I fcnind them when in travelling. I happened to arrive at some place where a court was sitting, and "just dropped in" for half an hour c/t passant ; hut still there is always a sometliing even in the best of them which, to an English eye, a})pears undignified and indecorous; although there can be no doul)t that their api)earance is not mended by the total absence of wigs and gowns from all of them. The spirit of equality renders it allowable, and the impossibility in distant towns of making In \^ m 170 SIX MONTHS m Mlii the profession answer by any other arrangement, renders it necessary, that a barrister and solicitor should frequently commence business as part- ners, and play into each other's hands. A judge will frequently travel from town to town un- attended, in his gig, or on horseback, with his saddle-bags before him, or in the stage-coach, and dine at the village table d'hote with shop- keepers, pseudo majors, and advertising attor- neys. Human nature will out. In the absence of other titles, it is the pleasure of the Ameri- cans that they should be dignified by the rank of General, Colonel, or Aide-de-camp ; but more especially I found by that of Major. An Eng- lish gentleman assured me that, being on board a steamer on the Ohio river, he was first intro- duced by a friend as plain Mr., then as Captain ; soon after he wjib addressed as Major, and before the end of the day he wiis formally introduced ^1 IN ami: in (A. 171 MS a General. There is usually a Major, or an Aide, as they call themselves, in every stage- coach company. The captain of a steam-boat, who was presiding at the dinner table, happened to ask rather loudly, " General, a little fish ! " and was immediately answered in the affirmati\ c by twenty-five out of the thirty gentlemen -who were present. One would have imagined, that in the United States, where an equal partition of the rights of mankind is the boasted foundation of the government, Justice would have been treated with peculiar courtesy ; but she is not properly honoured there. Justice is not exclusively ;i republican in principle, whatever the Americans may think. She must remain unaltered, what- ever may be the form of government, as the value of the diamond is the same whether its possessor be a prince or a peasant. During my 3! «. ,4,: -W f?i ..f i ■ iw I * ■ fA - Ei!l< . >i w . «?■ \' il K, f 1:1 i^ I ■ ' ' il ■ 172 SIX JNlONTIfS occasional visits to the courts of justice in the United States, I could not help thinking how^ fortunate it was that Justice was blind, and could not therefore be shocked by the want of decorum I observed there. What was my surprise on entering the supreme court in the capitol at Washington, to perceive her wooden figure with the eyes unfilleted, and grasping the scales like a groceress! With great deference, I would suggest that the whole of this unworthy group should be removed. I'lie day may arrive, as I have said before, when the supreme court may be the means of saving the Union. Any suggestions recommendatory of an amendment or additional clause in the consti- tution, emanate from the judges of this exalted tribunal. When it is thought necessary that the constitution of any particular state should be altered or amended, the legislature authorizes (f l\ AMEHHA. 17.S the people to express tlieir opinions as to whe- ther they are or are not in tavonr of calling- a general convention. This is nsualiy arranged at the time of a general election. If there be a majority in favom' of the convention, the legis- lature then calls upon the })eople to elect per- sons to serve as meml)crs or delegates, and it fixes the time of meeting. If any amendments are made by the convention, they are submitted to the people for their approval ; and if a ma- jority decide upon their adoption, they forthwith become part of the constitution. When U is considered that the supreme court has a federal jurisdiction extending over a union o»^ tv'enty-:"i)ur states, many of them as large or larger than England, whose humble and individual importance are increasing, and which are divided and subdivided by part}, and by conflicting and annually arising interests, and ri I H i r n'i m ! Id 'ilii I i R <Ki. 11 174 SIX mon'I'hs which are becoming more and more (k^mocratic in every succeeding year, and consequently more and more opposed to the spirit in whicli the constitution was originally framed, some idea may be formed of the importance that is attached to the decisions of this court, whose authorities, from first to last, are intended as a safeguard to the Union. The independence of this court, and, in fact, of all the federal judi- ciary, may be termed the sheet anchor of the United States. Its power constitutes their chief liope ; the abuse of it is the only medium of tyranny, and is therefore the principal source of apprehension. The judges of all the federal courts hold their offices during good behaviour, and are removable only l)y impeachment. It would reasonably be supposed that the individual states would follow the example of the general government in the ai)})ointmeiit of their judges; IN A. Mi: UK A. 175 in- hit hut this is not the case. In seven of the states tliey are elected tor a term of years only ; in Rhode Island they are elected annually ; in five of the states they are obliged to go out of office at sixty, sixty- five, or seventy years of age. This law in the enlightened state of New York has deprived it of the valuable services of Chan- cellor Kent, the author of the admirable Com- mentaries on the laws of America. There are many democrats who actually wish that the judges of the supreme court should be elected for a term of years only. This custom is noto- riously productive of sufficient hardships in some of the more remote states, where, on account of the smallness of the salary, amounting to not more than two or three hundred pountls, the bench is sometimes tilled by young and inex- perienced men, who are the children of party, and whose decisions must be occasionally attected by the hope of re-election. it! j"< \ f *'». !-fc 1'.|if Si I 17(5 SIX MONTHS . ■ 5 Eiitaikul estates are but little known in the United States: in South Carolina, Georgia, and Louisiana, not at all. In many of the states they are nothing in effect but an estate in fee ; the limitation in tail being of no value, except it be in special tail. But in all cases estates tail may be barred by a simple deed of bargain and sale, and which is, in fact, the almost universal assurance ; lease ar ' release being but little known. In other respects the doctrine of the statutes of uses is in full operation, excepting in the state of New York, where it has been dis- continued since the new code passed in 1829. The proceedings of the courts of equity are for the most part similar to those practised in England. Many of the states have chancellors, whose offices are held like those of the other judges. The state of New York had just been obliged to appoint a vice-chaneellor, on account I IN AMEHKA. 17 IXh of the iiicroase of l)usiiiess. The dutios of tin* chancellor, Jis far as they go, are the same as tliose of tlie lord chancellor of Eiio;lan(l: hut in many of the states the jurisdiction in l)aidv- ruptcy or insolvency is separate. The terms bankruptcy and insolvency are used indiscrimi- nately, although the distinction is of course generally known and understood among lawyers. By the articles of the constitution, the general government is enabled to pass uniform laws on the subject of bankruptcy. No general bank- rupt law has, however, been passed, although sueh a measure has been often contemplated. In the United States a proportion of the people, large beyond that of any other country, is en- gaged more or less in traffic of some kind or other in tlie course of the year, and the difficulty of coming to any equitable decision as to who may or may not be considered a bankrupt, has 1 ^.\ ■ iH J M 17H >;1X MONTHS ill *i i -i ' I I I J / 1 boon tlio roason why no i^ononil hiw on tlio suhjoct has boon passod by the fodoral con^^ross. The states likowiso liavo tl)o power of passing bankrupt laws; but thoy would oidy bo pro- ductive of confusion, jis thoy would not be al- lowed to have the oft'oct of rescindino- a contract between citizens of different states ; the supreme court liavinj^ decided that a discharge muU^r the bankrupt or insolvent laws of one state, could not affect contracts made or to be executed in another. As a matter of necessity, the states have insolvent laws of their own, which are generally recognized and respected in all of them as far as they conveniently can be. In some cases the person only, not the debt, is re- leased by them ; in others, the debt is discharged, but future acquisitions by gift, devise, or de- scent, are liable, though not the produce of future industry. The whole law on the subject IN .\>rFlU(.V. 17*) ot'hail ill tlio United Stafos is imicli tlio samo as that of Enjrland. A debtor to tlie rnitod States can only he rek'jised hy ohtaining a release under the United States' insolvent law. In order to he enahled to apply for a release under the insolvent laws of any ])artic'ular state, a debtor must have resided in that state for a certain period, generally one year; and on the surrender of all property (if ho has any), he ob- tains a discharge from ])rison, which is also a dis- charge from the debt itself, and as a personal discharge, is respected throughout the Union ; but as a discharge from the debt, it often operates as such only in the state that grants the dis- charge. Between citizens of the same state it releases the debt as well as the person ; between citizens of diflferent states, or between a citizen and a foreigner, or between foreigners, the dis- charge depends on circumstances. If the suit be m t 1 •<', V:i lii !l? %\ rii 180 SrX NfOM'I'Hs. hrouirht ill tlie courts (»f any particul.i'- statt', and the party has '^opn released l)y tlie laws of that state, tlie debt is considered equally cancelled as if the controversy had heen be- tween citizens of the same state. If the debtor to the United States has applied for, and obtained the benefit of the United States' insolvent law, it can only be in cases where a judgment has been obtained against him, and he has been taken in execution. He must, however, remain in prison for thirty days, and surrender all his property, which he must swear does not exceed thirty dollars, over and above his necessary wearing apparel ; for if he has property beyond that amount, he cannot obtain the benefit of this law. By this dis- charge, the person only is released, so that pro- perty subsequently obtained from any source is responsible. In all other cases of discharge. IN ami: III I A. 181 uiuler tlu* iiisolvtMit laws of iiulividiuil sUitfs, l)efore noticed, the person or the debt art dis- charged (as mentioned ahove), hnt still with the reservation, that all projierty acquired hy descent, gitt, or devise, shall be sul)jecte(l to exe^paon, but not ♦^he future acquisitions of thi> debtor by other ii.. ans. Fugitive debtors from other countries can be sued and imj)risoned only as if they were citizens of America, that is, by exhibiting against them a baihible cause of action. They must remain in prison, if taken immediately on their arrival, until entitled by a residence in the state (usually for one year) to apply for the benefit of the insolvent laws. State citizenship is re- quired only in a few of the states, the more general law being, that they may be discharged after a year's residence in the state in which they happen to be sued, whether they have fl! 4 : , ( ■ '<'■ r! VOL. I. N IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ■•1 I ^•» % ^o 1.0 I.I UilM 12.5 |50 ■^™ ■■■ 2.2 1^ 1^ I 2.0 L25 nil 1.4 III 1.6 V] <^ /2 ^p). dW *."'> >>• ?> /A 'W '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAiN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 I o^ I IH»2 SIX MONTHS 1.1 ■■' •'■ k heconu' citizt'iis or not. I'ori'ii^ners hoconu' citizens of the United States after five years' residence. Tiie acts of naturalization, the hist of wliich was passed in IHIO, require that an oath he taken i)efore a state-court i)y a foreigner of good moral character three years before his admis- sion, of his intention to hecome a citizen, and to renounce his native ;dlegiance : and at the time of admission he must satisfy the court, that he has resided five or six years, at least, within the United States, and likewise take an oath to renounce and abjure his native allegiance, and to support the constitution of the United States. America is in some respects, a laboratory for the rest of the world. It is the fittest region for experiment. From the first of January, 183*2, imprisonment for debt has ceased in the state of New York ; the fact is, there is so much more false capital in the United States than in Eng- If IN \vn.ni( \. |s:{ limd, tliat a crcdifor is not of'fcii imc dollar flu- richer for liaviiit»' put his dchtor into confincinciif. 'V\\v oxainj)l(s if it succeed, will prolmhiv soon he followed in Massachusetts, where there is a stronjr party in favour of a similar i>\])eriment. Whilst I was in that state, a meetinu^ was held at Boston, to consider of its propriety: l>ut the united ariJ'uineuts of many speakers, tended to prove nothing more than what was jnost prohaMv acknovvledL^ed heforehand, hy three-fourths of those who heard them, and into whicli ;dl that can be said on the suhject must ultimately resolve itself, nurtiely, that the surt'erinos of an innocent debtor are highly unjust, and much to be lamented; but that it would be very objection- able to iiave no means of confinini^ one whose conduct had been fraudulent. Hy the consti- tution of the state of Illinois, imprisonment for debt is disallowed, except in cases of fraud, or •4 ill 1,.) |H4 SIX MOMHS i fJ n if the rcfiisiil of the (Uhtor to dolivor up liis pro- perty tor tlic l)iMU'Ht of Iiis creditors. The question as to the power of uny court or officer to remove a cliiid from liis parents on account of their misconduct, remains unsettled; but if either of the parents were dead, and tlie survivm* an unsuitable person to take care of the child, application would ho made to the orphan's court, which exists in every state. Its authority resembles that of the lord chancellor in cases of infants being wards of court. Wills, both of real and personal estate, are proved there; and all executors and administrators pass their accounts in this court, from whose decisions an appeal lies to the chancellor. All deeds are by law required to be registered. Wills are proved and witnessed as in England; and a similar law prevents a witness from taking a legacy. A case of fraud used in obtaining a I' ' IN NMKKK A. Is; a a a will, tlio only fraud of which the Kn^lish (.'ourt of chancery docs not take notice, is decided hv the chancellor in some states: in others, it is usual to send it, as in Knu:laiul, to a iuiy. Tlie whole law of mortij^age is, ^^enerally speaking, much the same as in England. The proceedings in a chancery suit, difl'er only in the pleadings being a little more simple : a hill for instance, contains merely the statino- and interrogating parts, aiul the prayer. Wit- nesses are examined, as in England, upon written interrogatories. The effect of an answer and the mode of using it in court, are also similar. There is no such officer as an accountant- general. Masters in chancery are known only in some of the stiites. Their duties are some- what similar; and matters are referred to any one of them whom the parties may agree upon. In New York, I observed that " Mr. A. master A' .1 H ■;1 «i tl! I' ^i IHf. SIX MONTHS. ill cliuiicrry," was alnutst as tVi'(|uontly to bo seen on the door, as the names of a connseHor and solicitor. In those stiites where tiiere are no masters in chancery, the court lias a " Permanent Auditor," who discharges nearly all the duties assigned to the masters in Enj^land. The form of an action, the pleadings, and the method of obtaining evidence, are essentially the same as those used in England, generalh'. In some stiites the action of ejectment is un- known ; in others, it has merely undergone some modification. Real actions, such as writs of right, writs of entry, arc much used ; the period of limitiition has, however, been altered from that of England. The English law of prescrip- tion is acknowledged, with a very few necessarily constitutional exceptions. The period of limita- tion allowed in an action of assumpsit, also varies in different states; in some it is three IH IN A.MllllKA. hi7 years, in others it is six, as in Kiij^laiul. Where the action of ejectment is in use, the period ot limitation is in some states twenty years, as in En^hind; in others, seven years is thouirht sufficient. Juries are generally constituted as in Kni;- land, with the exception of sj)ecial juries, which are never formed. Throughout the United Stiites a counsellor is allowed to make a speech for the prisoner, and act generally in his behalf, as in a civil cause. Every state in the Union has its rules for the admission of counsellors, solicitors, and attorneys. They generally require that a stu- dent shall have studied law with some counsellor for at least three years. On application for an admission as an attorney, the court usually appoints three gentlemen of the bar to examine into the moral and legal qualifications of the • 1 fc^ m 'ti IHS *^IN MONIIIs .11 u i\\)\)\'H",\n\ . If lie Ih' |Ut'vi(>iisly iiiid tavouraMv known to tlu-ni, the t'xaniination is almost no- minal. If lio i)(> unknown, or ho known, l>nt with nnfavoural)k» imj)r('sslons, tlu* (v\aminati«»n is |)r()|)ortional)ly more strict. WIumi admitted as either counsellor or solicitor, he can jronerally practise in both characters, the distinction being nominal, excepting in the supreme court of the United States, where no person can be counsellor and solicitor at the same time. In the country particularly, it is usual for a lawyer to assume the duties of attorney, conveyancer, proctor, solicitor, and counsellor; but after having prac- tised some time, he usually confines himself to the practice of a counsellor only. A barrister and solicitor are frequently partners : as I have before remarked, it would be impossible for any practitioner to obtain a livelihood, excepting in the larger towns, without exercising his abilities IN' A.Mi;i!l(.\. I,s«> ill iM.rh faj)afiri('s. Vov tlic " inafcrii'l" of a groat part of tlio forciroiiiir n-inarks I am iii- (It'l)tc(l to tin- kind and ahlt" assisfancc of a ^cii- MiMnan (»f the Haltiinoro Nar, and I have ciidea- voiii-cd tliat their accuracy shoidd not siift'iT under my pen, It vvouhl he tedious to enter into any detail of tlic different state constitutions. It is suf- ficient to remark, tliat their affairs are usually administered hy a governor, a senate, and a liouse of representatives. The executive au- thority is vested in the governor, who lias in some states the benefit of a council. In some states he is elected - b^ a period of four ycjirs, but more usually for two. The legislature consists of a senate, and house of representa- tives : both, or the hitter, are usually elected an- nually ; but sometimes for a longer period, with modifications. In the state of Rhode Island, .'.t> r.>|; rt ; i N!^ i-'! '1 it; '-! * r t SI -I . " .m ■ n 4i .Ml ' :f >;S » '/' ' li)o SIX .MDNTHs ^ 4! II \l \vli(»s(' ^ovcrnnu'iif is fiMmdi'd on tlic ])rovisi<>ns of till' chaitor ^raiittMl to the colony l)y Charli's the Second in IGGO, and which is the only sUitc in the Union that has no written constitution; the governor, senate, and judges arc elected aninially ; the mendn'is of the house of rei>re- sentatives are elected every six months, or semi- annually, as they term it. In general, no other (jualifications are re(iuire(l of voters hut those of colour, age, sex, and residence. In nearly all the states the right of suffrage is enjoyed by free white citizens, who have resided for one year in the state, and six mouths in the country. In some of the states, colour is no bar. As to age, that of twenty-one years is the usual requisition. Every voter must of course be a citizen of the United States. Without entering at large upon the hack- neyed subject of universal suffrage, it may be h¥ IN AMI.lt MA. I«H siitKt'ii'iit to remark, that tlir iiitrinsii- evils ot'tlie systt'in are more or less a('kiiowle(lii;e(l hy a very lar^e proimrtioii ot" the hetter elass of Amerieaiis, altiiout!,h they of e«)urse diminish in the same ratio with the increase of virtue and intelligence; the objection is not merely, tluit the uncultivated and the ignorant part of the connnunity should 1)0 allowed tiie unqualified ri«*;ht of suffrage ; hut it lies in the corru])t influence to which it is open. Both the rich and the j)oor man have rij^hts to he protected; hut it must be unreason- able, that the wealthy juid enlii^htened should be controlled by the needy. 'I'he object of my charity goes to the poll ; and not only exercises as much political liberty as myself, but a great deal more ; because the poorer classes being the more numerous, the government is, in effect, inider their direction. If in addition to this it be considered, that they must lre(piently vote in f' * '- 1 1; Ja "N- .?t 1 1>1> SIX MONTHS t II 1 !*« (MHii|iliaii('t' with flu' wislu's ni a siipcrior, it follows, flijit the most comiiit, or the most s\w~ I'fsstiil at iiitrii»;iu', must nijoy tin* ;;n'at('st slian* of political powiT. A person \\\nt (htvs not in sncli a country an America, i^ain some sort of (puiliHcation hy liis industry is, surely, unworthy to l)e trusted with the riiiht of surtVa^•e. I was informed that votes were viM'y rarely bought with money, and helieved it: because wliere the voters an<l the candidates are so numerous, the <lisl)ursements must he very lari^e, and the difTiculty of concealment proportionately in- creased. They are rather conmianded by con- siderations of place ; and it is very evident, tliat a person who could be influenced by interest in one way, could easily be bribed in another, were it not for the fear of detection. The system of treating- is common enougli. "Why, Sir ! " said an old woman te a gentleman of I IN ami: UK A. Ii):( II .Smtli C'aroliiiiu iii\ iiitoniiitiit, •• I i»u«'>^ Mr. A. is tlu' Httost Mian of tlic f\\o, Imt t'otluT wliiskifs the hfsf." Tlu' iiiriiit'iicc «>f ju'ttv <lt'inai^o^m's is very yriat ; flicic Ixiiii'- usually \\vo or tliri'c ill cvi-ry villai^f. Naturali/.i'd forei^iuTs, as a ixxiy ot" votiTs, possess ^rrat power ill sonic places: in \c\v \uvk, wlnrc rlicrc ar<' said to l)c nearly ;jn,(MM) Irish, their iiitlnciicc over tlie elections is much complained of. 'I'he lioiisc of represeiitjitives of the I'liited States is composed of memhers chosen every second year, i)y the |)eople of the several states. Ill X'irginia ami Kentucky they are voted for, rlrd voce, and not by ballot, as in the other states. At present, one member is returned for every forty thousand persons, five slaves in the slave states counting as three whites. The present number is 216. As the number of re- presentatives mi^ht be too large, in consecpience . J \ ^1 ;. 1- \ i % ; :.;■ I IJ)4 SIX :S(()N'IMs of the increasinj^' ))0))ulati<)M, tlic t'oiistifiitioii provides that the munher shouhl not exceed one for every 0(),()00, but that no state sliall l)e without a representative. As the minimum only is there mentioned, the federal congress has the power of extending the mnnher of electors necessary for the return of a member. The senate of the United States is composed of two members from each state. Tliey are chosen by the legishature of tlie several states, for the term of six years ; one-third of them being elected every two years. The only qua- lifications necessary for a senator are — that he be thirty years of age, in conformity with the age of the Roman senator; and that he have been for nine years a citizen of the United States, and an inhabitant of the state for which he is elected. The qualifications required of a member of IN A.MKKK A. I J).-) rlio houso of roprescMitatiws aro — that lio he twenty-five years of age ; seven yejirs a citizen of the United States, and an iniiabitant of the state where he is chosen. Xo property qualifi- cation is required in either case ; and the conse- quence is, that the liouse of representatives is iialf filled with young lawyers. The oidy privi- lege it enjoys in its legislative character, wliich is not shared by the senate, is, tiiat it has the exclusive right of originating all money bills. Chancellor Kent, in his Commentaries, ob- serves, " that the great object of the separation of the legislature into two houses, acting sepa- rately, and with co-ordinate powers, is to destroy the evil effects of sudden and strong excitement ; and of precipitate measures, springing from passion, caprice, prejudice, personal influence, and party intrigue, which have been found, by .1 ,( .1'. •n 1-. I'l I * i ) 4'*a I. ■ I ^ I 4 it V 't' • 11 if: I9(i SIX ]\r<)NIHS sjul c'X|)rri('iiC(», to exercise a potent and dan- gerous sway in single asseinl)lies." No one can, for a moment, <loul)t tlie force of these remarks. It is the best arrangement tliat can 1)e a(h)|)ted in a republic: still it is hut splitting one pillar into two; the interests and inducements are co-extensive. The senate of the United States and the British house of lords are, or may he, equally influenced by the love of their country, and both are intended for its protection; but the one is little more than another house of representatives, the other a most essentially distinct part of the government : ])oth are bound by the ties of honour, and the duties of both are defined and exacted by the constitution; but those of the house of lords are dictated by the further necessity of consult- ing their own security, by a proj) and con- stant interposition between the throne and the IV A ME UK A. 107 people. The interests of the one are the same as those of the house of representatives, the only additional power they enjoy consisting of an association with the president, for the pur- pose of making treaties, and in the appointment of government officers. The interests of the house of lords are identified with those of the house of commons, not merely with refer- ence to property up to an extent usually far exceeding the amount of the qualifications necessary for obtaining a seat in that house; but they purchase an additional security to the constitution, by obliging the peers of Great Britain to keep a watchful eye on e^Try attempt at encroachment upon the dignity of the crown, their own rank in the country, and their rights as "hereditary lawgivers." In these times, when speculation is afloat, not as to what they will do, but as to what they dare do, how true VOL. I. O Vi 1.1!. Hi , >< f). 1 ; L p- If 198 SIX .MOxN'TllS \¥: should they ho to themselves. Their ohligutions are fur more weighty than the " legal presump- tion" (to use the words of Chancellor Kent, when speaking of the senate with reference to the houses of representatives), " that the senate will entertain more enlarged views of public policy, will feel a higher and greater sense of national character, and a greater regard for sta- bility in the administration of the government. " The president of the United States must be a citizen of the United States, must have attained the age of twenty-one years, and have been fourteen years a resident in the United States. He holds his office for four years. He is elected at the same time as the vice-president, who is president of the senate, but who has no vote, unless the votes be equally divided. The president, vice-president, and all civil officers of the United States, are removed IN AMERICA. lot) from office on impoachmont for, an<l conviction of, treason, bribery, or other Iiigh crimes and misdemeanours. Tlie president is commander- in-chief of the army and navy: lie has the power by, and with tJie advice and consent of the senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators present concur: he can con- vene both houses of congress, on extraordinary occasions; and adjourn them in case of their disagreement as to the time, to any time he may think proper: he appoints ambassadors, other public ministers and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and all officers of the United States whose appointments are not otherwise provided for by the constitution, and which shall be established by law, &c. &c. The president and vice-president are elected by electors ap- pointed in each state equal to the whole number of senators and representatives to which the o2 r J :W I Mn if • ,t-f •200 SIX MONTHS Vi* state may he ciititlecl to in congress; but no senator, or re})resentative, or person holding an office of trust or profit under the United States, shall be appointed an elector. The method of choosing^ these electors is threefold : by the state-legislatures ; by general-ticket ; and by districts. The two latter are more generally preferred, as the choice emanates more directly from the people. Four only of the states, — Delaware, South Carolina, Louisiana, and Ten- nessee, adopt the former. I think it would be tedious and luniecessary to give an analysis of these three methods ; suffice it to remark, I have heard it regretted that the constitution did not limit the choice to one mode. Chancellor Kent says " there would be less opportunity for dan- gerous coalitions and combinations for party, or ambitious or selfish purposes, if the choice of electors were referred to the people at large; and 'N' A.MF.HKA. •20! this sooms „ow fo 1)0 the. sonso an.l (vxprossio,, of public opinion." WIkm. tl.o' doctors l.avo made out tl.e requisite lists, they arc sent up to, and opened in the presence of the senate and house of represensatives; and the president an,l vice-president are chosen in the manner pre- scribed by the twelfth article of the amcMulmonts to the constitution. In the year 180], the fede- ralist candidates for the i)residency and vieo- presidency were Mr. Adams and (Joneral Pink- ney; the republican favourites were Mr. .[offor- son and Colonel Barr. The two latter obtaino<l a small, but equal majority over the former: and to decide between them was the allotted office of the house of representatives. Mr. Jefferson was chosen after no less than thirty- five trials. In the mean time the peoi)le were kept in suspense ; the tranquillity of the I jiion was endangered : tiio nrw^iMllf,. «*• j_,vi^,4, uic ])ossn)iiit\ ot a recurrence :1 ,i ^'^l fii 20-2 SJX MONTHS of simiiur difficulties was forcibly imj>res8ecl upon the minds of Americans; and an alteration of the clause regulating the mode of election of the president and vice-president was resolved upon. The old clause contained these words, " The person having the greatest number of votes to be president, if such number be a majority of the whole number of electors appointed ; and if there be more than one who have such majority, and have an equal number of votes, then the house of representatives shall immediately choose by ballot one of them for a president, &c." The mode of election was altered; but it may still happen that the vote of a single member of the house of representatives may decide it. In President Jackson's Message of December, 1830, he says, that "the necessity for an amendment is made so clear to his mind by the observation of its evils, and by the IN AaMEKKA. •20;) many able discussions which tlicy have elicited on the floor of congress, and elsewhere, that he should be wanting in his duty were he to with- hold another expression of his deep solicitude on the subject. A contingency which some- times places it in the power of a single mem- ber of the house of representatives to decide an election of so high and solemn a character, is unjust to the people; and becomes, when it occurs, a source of embarrassment to the indi- viduals thus brought into power, and a cause of distrust of the representative body. Liable as the confederacy is, from its great extent, to parties founded upon sectional interests, and to a corresponding midtiplication of candidates for the presidency, the tendency of the constitu- tional reference to the house of representatives is to devolve the election upon that body, in almost every instance; and whatever choice S:^ u* 1 , •: r 'A,i 4' 1 Iff »204 SIX .MONTHS '4 may tlius Uv mjuU' amon^ tho caiulidates thu8 presented to them, to swell tl»e influence of particular interests to a degree inconsistent with the general good." The election of the pre- sident, immediately by the people, without the intervention of electors, is here hinted at. There is a levelling spirit abroad in the United States, that sheds its influence over new laws and insti- tutions : if there be a possibility of a tendency towards either the federal or the democratical principles, that tendency is sure to be demo- cratical; and it is by no means improbable, that such a mode of election may, at some future day, be contended for and adopted. Chancellor Kent says, " that the mode of appointment of the president, presented one of the most difficult and momentous questions that could have occu- pied the deliberations of the assembly which framed the constitution : and if ever the tran- ( IN AMKIIUA. !>():» quilliry of this nation is to he (listurl)CMl, and its |)eaco joopardisod l)y a struggle for power anion«»- themselves, it will he u|)on this very suhjeet of the choise of a president. It is the (piestion that is eventually to attest the goodness and try the strength of the constitution, &c." Should the mode of election he altered, as I have just supposed it may he, we may hid adieu to the Union forthwith. When we consider the in- creasing population of the United States, the immense variety of interests, and that every free inhabitant feels, I may say, personally con- cerned, — whether he be really so or not, — in the success of his favourite candidate, we can, in some measure, foresee even under the present mode of election, how violent, how convulsing, at no very distant period, will be the struggle and party-feeling exliibited at the election of an officer, whose opinions on the construction of (,1 ^ ■h : r*4 It . 2(K) SIX .MONTHS !*«*' ^ l\n* artic'loj^ of tlio constitution, during liis sliort ascendancy of four years, will affect millions with a sentiment of attachment or disjrust. When General Jackson came into office, he imme- diately thought proper to turn out several hundred subordinate officers, whose places were filled up by his own i)arty. Tlie number of those who lost their places at the commence- ment of any preceding presidency was ex- tremely small, bearing no proportion whatever to those dismissed by the General. The in- creasing weight and importance of the affairs of the United States rendered it partly a matter of expediency to do so ; and, in all human probability, future presidents will find themselves obliged to follow the example. I make no remark on the late petticoat confu- sion in the United States* cabinet; like the battle of Navarino, the best that can be said of it is, that it was an '^ untoward event." IN A mi; UK A. '207 The salary of the piTsidoiit is 'jrijiMM) (lollurs (56-25/.) a yi'ar, with the prrsi^lont's houHo at Washington for his rcsicU'iit'o ; hut his expenses do not ecpial his intonio, Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president, receives hut 5000 dollars (11*25/.) a year. The secretaries for state, treasury, war, and navy, and the post- master-general, receive a yearly salary of (5000 dollars (1350/.) each, and work very hard for it, their time and attention being fully occupied, and often till a late hour of the night. In the Message of 1830, to which I have before referred, General Jackson invites the attention of congress to the propriety of pro- moting such an amendment of the constitution as will render the president ineligible after one term of service; and yet General Jackson is again a candidate, and most probably a success- ful candidate, for the office of president at the 'J ^i *208 SIX MONTHS next I'loctioii, on tho first Wednesdav in Do- comber, 1832, ])re})arjitory to his taking offico for tho tvvolfth prosidential term of four years, commencing on tlie ^tl of March, 18^33. The election of the next — and lieaven knows how many future presidents! — will depend upon the known oj)ini()ns of either candidate u})on " the Cherokee case ; upon the cpiestion of the renewal of tlie charter of tho United States' Bank, to which I have before adverted; on Mcisonry ; on whether there is or is not a power granted by the constitution to lay out the federal funds upon internal improvements throughout the Union ; and lastly, on the still more im- portant question as to the continuance or modi- fication of the existing tariff. The candidates will most likely be General Jackson, the pre- sident of the (hiy, Mr. Clay, Mr. Wirt, and Mr. Calhoun. IN' AMEUICA. '209 The opinions of Cioneial Jackson are in favour of the removal of tlie Cherokees : he is averse to the renewal of the charter of the United States' Bank: he is a Freemason, ami l)elieves that thff ai)i)lication of the federal funds to internal improvements would be unconstitu- tional. His oj)inions on the tariff question are oracular and uncertain. Mr. Clay is opposed to the removal of the Cherokees; he is in favour of the renewal of the Baidv charter; he is a Mason; is an advocate for internal improvements ; and a staunch friend to the protecting, or, as it is called by its suj)- porters, the American system. Mr. Wirt, a gentleman of Maryland, was the counsel for the Cherokees before the supreme court. He has lately been started as a candidate by the Anti-masons. Since the abduction ami supposed murder of William 'P I, ' h ;ii 11 210 SIX MOiN'TIIS 1;^ M ii m J " * fl Morgjin, who, a few years since, wrote a book revealing the secrets of Freemasonry, the Anti- masons have become gradually more and more numerous. They profess a hatred of all secret societies as dangerous and unconstitutional ; and although tliey will not be able to secure the presidency to themselves, yet it is probable they will be sufficiently strong to defeat the election of either of the more obnoxious can- didates. Mr. Wirt's opinions are supposed to coincide with those of Mr. Clay generally ; but \vith respect to the internal improvement system, and the tariff question, he is at present un- committed. Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president of the day, is the great champion of the interests of the southern states, the nullifiers, and the anti- tariff party ; and in that character, if at all, he will be elected to the presidency. His opinions >!. « IN AMERICA. 211 '^;V0m arc in favour of the removal of the Clierokces, and of the existence of the United States' Bank. On the subject of internal improve- ments liis opinions are said to be changed, he having been originally an advocate of the sys- tem when secretary at war in 1819. He is a " Nullifier," altliough his situation as vice- president has prevented him from showing him- self in that character so uniformly as he would have done. Tlie term " nullifier," which, like the word "radical" in England, has now grown into common use, was first adopted by the mem- bers from South Carolina, in congress, about two years ago; the doctrine they profess was broached at the same time. A nullifier is a person who holds that the federal constitution is merely a compact or league between the several states; and that each state has a right to decide for itself concerning the infractions of :1> ■I i-'i < i- i : :-■ •212 MX .%rONTHS sw. *■ n I :-M tlint league hy tlie federal government, and to nullify or declare void an act of the federal congress within its limits. Whatever may be urged by the party who art opposed to the opinions of General Jackson, with refr fence to the advancement of prosperity in . the United States by his internal policy merely, his administrations of the affairs of his country with regard to its relations with foreign powers, has certainly been generally successful. He has obtained for her the command of a profitable trade with the British West Indian and North American colonies, thereby settling a question which had already been the subject of six negociations. The president, in his Message, at the second sitting of congress, on the 7th of December, 1830, says, that this desirable result was promoted by the liberal provision of congress, in allowing the ports of I ", IN AMEUKA. '2\:\ till' United .States to he open to Hritisli shi]^pi^^• before the arrangement eouhl he earried into effect on the part of Great Britain, therehy reqniting a similar act of liberality on tlie part of the British government in 18*25. He has recovered claims upon the Brazils, Columbia, and Denmark, from which kingdom the payment of 650,000 dollars is secured to the citizens of the United States, for spoliations upon their commerce in the years 1808, 9, 10, and 11. Similar claims upon France, for inju- ries during the war, have also been lately ad- justed with that power. He has concluded a treaty of commerce with Mexico ; and by another with Columbia, he has freed the American merchants from the discri- minating duties which had been imposed upon them; and by another with Turkey he has secured a free passage for American merchant- i'' ^\H ■i., ■ .1 '•1^ i-i. w,. \4 : : i!c , r ' ■ VOL. I. '214 SIX MONTHS men, without limitation of time, to and from the Black Sea, by which their trade with Turkey is placed on an equal footing with tliat of other nations. By a compact made between the United States and the state of Georgia, on the 24th of April, 1802, and long before any gold mines were thought of, the United States engaged to extin- guish for the use of Georgia, "as early as the same could be peaceably obtained on reasonable terms, the Indian title to the county of Talassee, and to all the other lands within the state of Georgia." As gold mines, within two or three years, have been discovered in that state, it has naturally followed, that the inclination of the Indians to remain, and that of the Georgians to get rid of them, has become far more decided than formerly. The Indians (Cherokees) however, claim a voice in the affair of tiic'r removal from IN A.MEIIKA. •21.1 the land of tlieir tlitliers; and that their assor- tioiis have other fouudations than those of an appeal to common justice and humanity, is proved by tlie fact, that from the 28tli of November, 1785, tlie general government has made witli them no less than fifteen ditferent treaties, thereby plainly acknowledging their in- dependence, and their capacity and power to treat. Within the last two or three years, how- ever, gold, as I have before remarked, has been discovered on the territories of the Indians; and the state of Georgia has applied to the general government to fulfil the contract, and rid them of the Cherokees. The general government would be willing to come to a proper arrangement with the Cherokees, but they are unwilling to go. The number now left is about 15,000; the remainder of the tribe, since the year 1809, havuig acceded to the offer ..i: ■|,i ■'U' & ■ Lift :^ I'l i-a 216 SIX .MONTHS « .' of tlie United States, and removed to tlie lands provided for tliem beyond tlie Mississip})i. When this part of the tribe petitioned to be allowed to remove, the answer of the president (Mr. Madison) contained the words, " those wlio are willing to remove may be assured of our pat^ronage, our aid, and our good neighbour- hood." The Georgians, however, happen to think that this is just tlie time for them to go, and they forcibly prevent them from digging for gold on their own land, saying, that every year will but increase their anxiety to remain ; and that they have no right to dig for gold when the reversion of the land is in the state. These disputes yet remain imsettled. The Cherokees are far advanced in civil- ization; and have among them men of very superior abilities. They adopt in part the costume of Europeans; they have schools, and IN AMLIIKA. 1>I7 churches, and a printing press among them; and were fully compeient to understand the following precious piece of humbug, forming part of President Jackson's message to congress, in 1830. " Humanity has often wept over the fate of the aborigines of this country; and philanthropy has been long busily employed in devising means to avert it; but its progress has never for a moment been arrested, and one by one have many powerful tribes disappeared from the earth. To follow to the tomb the last of this race, and to tread on the graves of extinct nations, excites melancholy reflections. But true philanthropy reconciles the mind to these vicissitudes, as it does to the extinction of one generation to make room for another. In the monuments and fortresses of an unknown people spread over the extensive regions of the >vest, we behold the memorials of a once ■t ; % 1 1 \i'! U^!^ i y I 1. -I I 1:1* t ••■i Ml »2I8 SIX MON'IIIS powerful race, whicli was exterminated, or has tlisappeared, to make room for tlie existiufij savage tribes, &c. &c. The tribes which occu- pied the countries now constituting the eastern states, were annihihited or liave melted away to make room for tlie whites. The waves of popuhition and civilization are rolling to the westward; and we now propose to acquire the countries occupied by the red men of the south and west, by a fair exchange, and at the ex- pense of the United States, to send them to a land where their existence may be prolonged and perhaps made perpetual. Doubtless it will be painful to leave tlie graves of their fathers ; but what do they more than our ancestors did, or than our children are now doing ? To better their condition in unknown lands, our forefathers left all that was dear in earthly objects; our children by thousands yearl}' leave the land of IN A> IKI» A. *2Ui their hirtli to scok new homes in .iiNt .,"' m^tm^ Does humanity weep at these painful «r ?iratio«» from every thing animate and inanimate vvitli which the young heart has become entwined ? Far from it! It is rather a source of joy that our country affords scope where our young population may range unconstrained in body or in mind, developing the power and faculties of man in their highest perfection. These remove hundreds and almost thousands of miles at their own expense, purchase the lands they occupy, and support themselves at their new home from the moment of their arrival. Can it be cruel in this government, when, by events which it cannot control, the Indian is made discontented with his ancient home, to purchase his lands, to gl/e him a new and extensive territory, to pay the expenses of his removal, and support him a year in his new abode? How many thousands ■Sr ir n h k'W'i m i (... ,M •2'2() SIX .>roNTII.s of our own poopli' woul<l gladly embrace tlio opportunity of removing to the west on sueli eonditions. If the offers made to the Indians were extended to tliem, they would be hailed with gratitude and joy. "And is it supj>()sed that the wandering savage has a stronger attaeliment to Ids liome than the settled, civilized Christian ? Is it more afflicting to him to leave tlie graves of liis fathers, than it is to our brothers and children ? Rightly con- sidered, the policy of the general government towards the red man, is not oidy liberal but generous. He is unwilling to submit to the laws of the states, and to mingle with their population. To save him from this alternative, or, perhaps, utter annihilation, the general go- vernment kindly offers him a new home; and proposes to pay the whole expense of his re- moval and settlement." ] IN \Mi:HI(.\. • )•>■ I will luTf intHMhur a iv\v ri'inarks on what is i-alkMl tho gold vvgum in the rnitv.l States, with the kind assistance of Mr. Damin, a Svve- <lish ^entK'man resident at \ew York, and con- nected with tlie goU mines. I have seh-eted them, with a very few alterations, from the reports on the snhject lately puhlished hy the govern- ment. It is now about thirty years since gold was discovered in North Carolina; it was found in the sand and gravel of different water-courses, first in Caharras county, soon afterwards in a county of Montgomery in that state. Until within a few years past, the process of vviishing for gold was principally confined to the two counties just named. The greater portion of the gold thus procured was found in small pieces, varying in size from one pennyweight down to particles of extreme minuteness; at most of the mines, however, it is not uncommon to f i\ iii I ■: : yt r 11 i^fi 2'n SIX MON'IHS li: find pieces of a much larger size ; for example, at Cabarras, a single piece has ])een found weighing twenty-eight pounds avoirdupois, be- sides several other pieces varying from four to sixteen pounds. The proprietor of the same mine affirms, that about a hundred pounds avoir- dupois have been found in pieces, about one pound in weight; these large pieces, however, compose but a small portion of the whole pro- duct of the mines. At a mine in Montgomery county, a number of pieces of about one pound weight have been found. One of them weighed four pounds eleven ounces, and another three poimds. In Anson county, during the summer of 1828, a piece of gold weighing ten pounds, another of four pounds weight, together with a number of small pieces, were taken up out of the sands and gravel of Richardson's creek. I'hese dis- IN A.Mi:UICA. 2'2S - 'A i ■ f' covcries have been eliiefly made in or near beds of streams; but in some instances deposits of considerable extent have been found on the sides and tops of liills. It was not, however, until about six years ago, tliat tlie gold mines, properly speaking, were discovered in North Cjirolina, that is, gold in regular, well-defined veins. This discovery, like that of the alluvial deposits, was in some measure accidental. A person, while washing the sand and gravel of a small rivulet for gold in Montgomery county, observed that he coukl never find it beyond a certain spot in ascend- ing the stream ; but at the point where the gold seemed to cease, he discovered a quartz vein running into the hill on one side of the channel, and at right angles with the course of the rivulet. Having frequently taken up out of the bed of the stream, pieces of quartz with bits of gold I' hi- H nik in '\% i S; f 224 SIX iM(JNTHS attached to them, he came to the conclusion that the gold found scattered below, must have come out of the vein of quartz ; and he deter- mined to pursue it into the hill. He had done so hut for a few feet, when he struck a beauti- ful deposit of the metal in a matrix of quartz, and subsequently another in carbonate of lime. In following this vein about thirty or forty feet longitudinally, and at a depth of not more than fifteen or eighteen feet, he found a succession of what are technically termed nests, from which he took out more than 15,000 dwt. of virgin gold. Soon afterwards the mine fell into other hands; and the working of the vein has been discontinued in consequence of the quantity of water which made its appearance ; though it is understood that it will be resumed in a short time. This discovery of the metal in regular veins, present* 'd the subject in a new and in- IN AMERICA. 'M-; *■*«*# teresting point of view; and directed a .searcli for gold among tlie hills and high grounds, and particularly for veins traversing the earth. In the course of the summer, after the de- velopement of Barringer's mine, some valuable mines were discovered in Mecklenburgh county. The product of these, worked in the rudest manner, without skill or capital, was so great as to excite general notice; and stimulated the land-owners in that section to search for these hidden treasures. Tlie mhies now began to attract the attention of the public; and several persons of enterprise, and some capital, repaired to the spot. Some of them made investments, began to erect machinery, and worked tlie veins with system and regularity. The success of the first adventurers in this new enterprise, and for a time the attention of every body who sought to engage in the mhiing business, was i ■i: 1r ■ t « 'f't I •J'26 SIX MONTHS oxclusivcly turned towards Mocklonl)iirg]i county. The consequence was, a constant search for gold was kept up in that county, and not unattended with success, iis many very promising- veins were discovered. These Mecklenburgh mines were the first that attracted attention ; and the first that were examined and worked with skill and management. They were, of course, greatly in advance of every other part of the region, and the products have been greater in proportion to the labour, and capital, and skill that have been applied to them. In the course of the succeeding year, a very extensive and rich vein was discovered in Guil- ford county ; and it was soon operated upon by more than one hundred hands, who flocked in from the country around, and received permis- sion to dig there. The discovery of one vein in a district, furnishes the means of finding others. IN VMEHKA. '1*17 Tho people of tlie neighbourhood visit it, ex.imine tlie appearances of the ores, and other signs and indications, and thus in some degree are quali- fied to make a search on their own lands or elsewhere. This was the case in Guilford county; the discovery of the first vein was soon followed by the opening of several others. The same plan will be followed in every district, until the gold region be explored, and the places which exhibit any external signs of gold be thoroughly known. About this time Cabarras county, which had hitherto been only considered as productive in its washings, was ascertained to be a vein-mining district; and discoveries to the same effect were made about the same period at Lincoln. It is less than two years and a half ago, snice gold in veins was first discovered in Davidson county; it having previously been found only ■ i" I-' .ft -■ % ; ,j , . ti; 'M f't 0\ I !t n »■ IrS' '2'2S SIX MONTHS I § in and near tlu» beds of rivulets and creeks. Within the hist few months, veins have been opened in the adjoining county of Randolph. Rowan, situated between Davidson and Cabarras counties, embraces a considerable section of the gold region, and contains many veins whose external appearance is good and promising. The metal is also found in the streams: some few veins have also been opened in Tredell county, and are now in a course of developement. While progress had been thus making in opening veins, and in ascertaining their situa- tions, some valuable discoveries of stream deposits occurred in a section of the state of North Carolina, hitherto not suspected to be within the range of the gold region. In Burke county, one of the most mountainous of the state, and one, two, or more feet under the surface, a layer of sand and gravel is found, varying from a r -'"^i I\ AMEIUCA. •2'20 few inches, sometimes to more tlian a foot, in tliiekness ; in this hiyer tlie virgin gold is found, generally in small particles about the size of a pin's head, and very often as large as a grain of corn; it is separated, and collected from the accompanying matter, by washing. Water is abundant ; and the absence of clay and adhesive matter in the auriferous layer, makes the pro- cess of washing exceedingly easy. A number of these deposits have already been found, and some of them have proved to be very productive. It may be here mentioned, that in the adjoining county of Rutherford, gold in deposit has also been found; but as yet, not much labour lias been expended in that quarter. One vein, which is very encouraging, has been worked regularly; another vein of good expectations has been discovered. In short the veins and places of deposit are VOL. I. « 1 ?■■■ rh %^ »! 'i .'■ ■r. "■{•■ ■ I W^: 'I 1* 1 i ■ :■ 111 * . M^ ;• f •'«( : , ■ ■■>;! ! XA 1 1 1 •M i . il Ib if 1 Iff ill if" tiiJO SIX MONTHS i ?fv« vi'iy miiiK'rous, and scattered over the wliole country, with a few exceptions ; and the gold which is produc'.'d finds a market so readily, that it is difficult to give a very correct estimate of the product of mines of the Carolinas, Virginia, and Georgia; l)ut it was said to amount to 500,000 dollars in 1830, from North Carolina alone. During that year, nearly the whole gold coinage of the United States' mint, was from native gold. The coinage was 643,105 dollars in gold coin : of this, 125,000 was derived from Mexico, South America, and the West Indies; 19,000 from Africa, 406,000 from the gold region of the United States, and about 33,000 from sources not ascertained. Of the gold of the United States above mentioned, 24,000 may be stated to have come from Virginia, 204,000 from North Carolina, 26,000 from South Caro- lina, and 212,000 from Georgia. IN' AMLIIICA. t>3l I If may not hv out of* place Jiorc to remark, that liereafter the quantity of (h)mestic ^-ohi that will l)e received at the mint, will l)ear a less proportion to the whole amount found, than has been the case heretofore; the rejison is this: hitherto, Phihidelphia may be said to have been nearly the oidy market for the article ; goldsmiths and merchants at New York, and other cities in the Union, were unacquainted with it; and there- fore for fear of deception, dealt but little in it ; this occasioned the greater part of the gold to be taken to Philadelphia, where, if not sold to the goldsmiths or merchants, it was deposited in the mint ; so that at all events a portion of it always contrived to reach that establishment. But now the case is different: a market for the gold is opening in most of the cities of the United States ; goldsmiths and jewellers, having ascer- tained its comparative purity, which is said to Q 2 1^' fy 'A U If- '•I m i 2i]2 SIX .'NfONTHS I i 1)0 groator than that ot" the «^oltl of Mexico or the Bra/ils, will j^onorally become purchasers for their own use. That tliere will be an ijicrease in the pro- ducts of the mines every succeedinir year, admits of very b'ttle doubt, when the i^radual cjnlargement of the gold region, extending througli Virginia, Nortli and South Carolina, and Georgia — the number of persons turning their attention to tlie business — the mills that are now erecting in various places — the improve- ments in the mode of working find general management, are made the subject of consi- deration. The improvements in machinery have been considerable within the last two years : it is believed, however, that as yet they are far from being perfect. The defects in the present mode of extracting the gold are well known IN AMEKKA. *2:y,i hm to those most extensively eng^aged in the busi- ness; and some of the miners, even at this time, are turninjr their attention towards the introduction ot" other methods, promising more economy and greater results. Griiuling the ore in water with the vertical stone, which is the method practised in Chili, is now the process most generally used; but the liabilities of the vertical, or Chilian mill, to become disor- dered — the waste of gold and quicksilver — the irregularity of results from the same ores — the want of proper checks on the workmen, together with minor objections, will probably, in a few years more, cause these mills to be in a great measure discontinued, except in small establishments, and for certain classes of ores in the larger ones. The auriferous veins of North Carolina and Virginia have not yet been sufficiently deve- I.:. »r: I ^J 'I :i '234 SIX MON'lUS m II loped. As yet not u single sliiit't in the wlK)le ian<^e of country (except at the Charlotte Mine, near a small town of that name, worked under the direction of the Chevalier de Rivafinoli) has been carried down to the depth of a hundred feet. Seventy to eijj-hty feet is the greatest deptli yet attained ; and thirty feet is more than an average on the main excavation : as far, however, as these experiments have gone, they furnish no reason to doubt the durability of the mines ; for thus far, the well-defined veins not only retain their first size, but, in many cases, become larger, and more often than otherwise, improve in richness. This circumstance has given rise to an idea among the common work- men, that the vein grows richer about the time it reaches water. On the whole, when it is considered, that in Mexico, Saxony, and other great mining districts, veins have been success- . IN A.MKUKA. 'J05 tully follout'd (lowiiwanls more tlian 'J.^OO tccf ; thr |)n)l)iil»ility lliiit the vi'iiis in tlif riiitud States will inijirovc, is, at loast, as i»ivat as that tlioy will hifoinc poorer. Nor is it in the nature of thiij<rs, that any considerable ])ortion of the whole munher of veins existinjr there, niueh less all of them, havo already been discovered. The nsual way that (lisco\'eries are made, is to take some of the earth or gravel lyino- on the top of the rocks, and wash it in an iron pan. If any fine particles of gold are found, the vein is known to be auriferons, and its degree of richness and value is judgecl of by a variety of circumstances. This fine gohl without doubt comes out of the vein, the top of which had been disintegrated, and fallen to pieces. There are many bold veins in every district, the tops of which show no gold, whilst other indicating ',* ill 236 SIX MONTHS il substances are abundant. The probability is, that some of them at a greater depth may prove higlily auriferous. Reviewing all that has been said on the subject, it will be seen that the whole business is yet in its infancy ; and the only cause for wonder is, that so much has been done in so short a time. Ignorance and prejudice were to be overcome, and ridicule was liberally bestowed on the few who engaged in the business. If the work proceed as rapidly for some years to come, as it has for the three years past, the changes in the appearance of things will become very striking. There are some persons of intelligence, mostly however at a distance, who seem to apprehend that the mines of the United States will produce consequences similar to those that followed to Spain and her colonies from the discovery of the mines of South f. 1 ■ IN AMERICA. 237 America and Mexico. Without stopping to inquire how far these consequences were occa- sioned by the mines of the New World, it may be remarked with truth, that no sort of analogy is to be found in the condition and circumstances of t^-e two countries ; and that neither the stiites- man nor the philosopher need anticipate that the results will be similar. That great effects will be produced is beyond question : and these will show themselves in the increasing prosperity of the country. Among the advantages that will follow from the develope- ment of the mines, is the encouragement they give to agriculture, in the withdrawal of some of its surplus labour, and giving it new employ- ment. They will create home markets for the surplus products of the farmer; and this will encourage him to improve his farm, and increase the productiveness of his lands. As yet, this m ■Hmi m Si i '4 t J' '1 '*^ ^1 : m f 'hi 1 fi '233 SIX MONTHS influence has not been much felt ; but a crlose observer may see that the improvement has commenced, though it will not be generally perceptible until the division of labour more fully takes place between the farmer and the miner. Mining and farming are two very different pur- suits; and farmers will soon see that it is pru- dent for them to stick to the plough, and sell or let the auriferous veins to the miner. An important change will also take place (at a very distant period) in the staples of the gold country ; cotton will be less and less culti- vated in the mining districts ; while the bread stuff, farinaceous, succulent vegetables — and stock, will claim the chief attention. This change in the staples of the agriculturist, will in itself produce important results. The opening of the mines, and the prospect of profitable employment, will in some degree check hat 1 S' J IN AMEIIKA. 239 spirit of emigration which lias been carrying otf so many enter})risingan(l useful citizens, and will bring into the country men of wealth intelli- gence, business habits, and general enterprise. The opening of the mines has been attended with one primary and bad effect ; that of creating a mania for speculation. The usually attendant failures and mishaps will co-operate with' other causes, to throw the mines into the hands of a distinct class of men, who, having a knowledge of the business, and having capital at command, will eventually conduct all the mining operations in the country. Whether the effects be good or bad, their influence will not be confined to North Carolina. It will be felt in Virginia, South Carolina, and Georgia, — the people in the upper parts of these states having far more interest in the mines than is generally supposed. ■lif ^t ^ I 1 I ' m 24(r SIX MONTHS^ i ■1 1 mi Wheii the cheapness of obtaining the timber necessary for machinery, the certainty of labour, and the security of property under such a government as that of the United States, are deeply considered ; these mines might be far more worth the attention of an English company than many a scheme in which English capital is already embarked. Applications to govern- ment for charters will most probably be more numerous in every succeeding year. The capital required to form a company would not, I was informed, exceed 40,000/, or 50,000/. No one can visit the United States without hearing of President Jackson's celebrated " veto *' on internal improvements, and every disin- terested individual would, I humbly think, be ready to admit that the sentiments it contains IN AMERICA. '241 'fki . are just and valuable, because they display a solid attachment to the letter of the constitution. By the articles of the constitution, the powers of the federal government, with reference to its expenditure of the national funds upon internal improvements in the Union, are confined to the establishment of post-offices and post-roads. On the 27th May, 1830, in the firm persuasion that the words 'post-roads' could apply only to those which might prove of general benefit to the citizens of the Union, and not to those which conferred an advantage only upon the in- habitants of any particular state, a bill entitled " An Act authorising a subscription of stock in the Maysville, Washington, Paris, and Lexing- ton turnpike road Company," was returned by the President to the house of representatives, without having received his signature. In the veto by which it was accompanied, he shows 'ill'- 4^ sw ■r*. 1?^ if' ' Is?' f! I'll I:. i-' 24-2 SIX MoN'ins I mm tliat " j^rants for internal improvemtMits from the national treasury, have l)een made ])rofess- edly under the control of the general i)rinciple, that the works which might be thus aided should be of a general, not local — national, not state character ; and that a disregard of this distinction would of necessity lead to the subversion of the federal system. The road in question had no regard to any general system of improvements, and was exclusively without the limits of the state ; starting at a point on the Ohio river, and running out sixty miles to an interior town, and even as far as that state was concerned, of partial, not general advantage." In another part of the veto he adds, " that if it be the desire of the people, that the agency of the federal govern- ment should be confined to the appropriation of money in aid of such undertakings in virtue of state authority ; then the occasion, the manner, i IN AMtHUA. lM:3 and the extent of tlie appropriations, should he made the sul)jeet of constitutional regulation." In ahout three years, tlie national deht of the United States will he paid off, and the govern- ment will find itself in possession of a surplus revenue of i - or twelve millions of dollars. To divide it amongst the states, will he nnconsti- tutional, hecause it will render the states too de- pendent on the favour of the federal government ; and as it is collected chiefly hy means of the tariff, it cannot cease to exist so long as the tariff remains in force. Without a limited and defining authority, arising from a constitutional adjustment of this power of distribution upon equitable principles, it is beyond a doubt that neither Mr. Clay, nor any other person who may be president, could give any thing like universal satisfaction amid the «« scramble for appropriations,"— as the !';p % ■ 'if* '..(tell % ,#1 >V-i. 244 SIX MONTHS veto lias it, — which could not but ensue upon the conflicting md uncontrollable variety of interest that is annually increasing in the American community. h^ The progress of refcrm in England, and in Europe generally, is watched with the most intense interest by the Americans. A deep feeling of regard and sympathy for the mother country, as the term it, is still general, and I think increasing; and though most of the Americans believe their own country is the first in the world, they are still reasonable enough to assign to Great Britain the second place in the scale of nations. Those airs which it must be admitted so frequently render an Englishman ridiculous, when travelling on the old continent, would be entirely thrown away in the United t;'. IN AMERICA. '245 States. All protontiojis to importance are ilis- regarded, even without being canvassed, as they might he in Europe ; hut so long as an Englishman behaves with propriety, the Ame- ricans will entertain more respect for his uame and character, than they care to avow opeidy. They wish us well through our troubles, and watch with sincere pity what they consider to be the approaching downfal of our constitution: but at the same time their national vanity receives something very like gratification from the belief, that we shall be forced to adopt a form of government similar to their own. That the American form of government is admirably adapted to a new country, that that country has astonishing resources, and that the Americans lose no time in making the most of them, (I speak of America as a country, not of the Union, for America must thrive come # VOL. /. B i-: m. m !" i 246 SIX MONTHS (f 111' :i1 what will to tilt! governnu'iit) that it has thriven under its institutions, and is at present enjoying an exemption from many evils incidental to older countries, it wouhl be an absurdity to deny. But the natural causes of prosperity which the Americans so pre-eminently enjoy, njust not be mistaken, as they most fondly and frequently are, for the positive effects, and little more than the positive effects, of a good govern- ment, however good and well adapted that government may be. The American constitu- tion has never been tried. That it was nearly a bankrupt at the close of the last war, was a trial of the resources of the country, not of its institutions. Forty years is no time to test the strength of a government like that of the United States, when civilization is extended over so small a proportion of them. The good is perceived at present; the evils are latent, and compara- m IN AMERIlA. •247 "11 tivoly litfle ft'lf. But tliero are amoiitr tlio institutions of the rnion, the seeds of discord and confusion, whose growth is only stifled by tl»c hustle of commercial pursuits, and that panacea for every political disease, a fine country abounding in resources, and of small ])opulation in comparison to its extent. It is possible that the mischief will not be felt, so long as there is lu) real motive for disaffection; so lon^r in fact as the peo})le are not in want, which may not be the case while groinul yet remains to be cultivated. In England and America universal suffrage would be alike only in name. In America it is true, that almost every one can vote ; but then it is equally true, that excepting in the larger cities in which may be always found, even in America, a certain proportion of persons without any ostensible means of getting a livelihood, R 2 m 'P ,:,J :iAS MX MONTHS 0.^ H^' every onv lias at least a prospectivo certainty of the acquisition of pr()})erty. The poor, com- paratively speaking, are so few, that universal suflfrage is, at present, hut a mere hydra in embryo. Were the present course of improve- ment to proceed without interruption, from what the political economists call the disturbing causes, — were luxury to be kept at a distance, and a forced e(piality and contentment to be preserved by a strong and universal exertion of the demo- cratic principle, — it would be demonstrable, that the American constitution would last for cen- turies ; or in other words, till the country became so thickly peopled as to be subject to the evils resulting to England, and the older dynasties of Europe. If a democracy be essentially the best form of government, it would follow that a sur- plus population, that unhappy proof of its excellence, would but be called the sooner into IN AMtUlCA. 24}) rxistonco. ThoM will Hunc t\w ,val in.,nu...f of trial, u'hetluM- a democracy can exist mulcr tiic pressure of want— whether those that l.ave any thin^r to h)se, wouhl not he at the mercy of those that have not—whether nri oqnality of condition wonid not he consich'red as conferrinor a title to n community of goods— wliether, when such a state of tldnirs is appre- hended, a standing armed ,.rce, he it caik'd hy what name it may, .v-idd not he necessary, not to repress foreign invasion, hut to put down domestic commotions— whether taxes must not be levied for its support— and whether those taxes would not be found ext'cedingly trouble- some. In an article in the American Quarterly Review, ^July 1801), evidently written in a wantorness of spirit that savours of ambition, or disa})pointment, or of both, and in which we mo kindly tohl the easiest road to ruin, it is re- 1! «; m *250 SIX MONTHS marked that " our forefatliers were habituated to the European system, but they built up the re- publican colonies with infinite ease." But may it not be here remarked, that as it is the boast, and justly the boast, of the Americans, and of the New Englanders in particular, that the tone of liberty which pervades their institutions is derived through the blood of the Puritans, who did build up the colonies with infinite ease, and whose descendants are still living; so it must not be forgotten that the Hampdens, the Hazelrigs, the Cromwells, and others, who were prevented from embarking for America by the order of their obstinate and ill-fated monarch, were men of the same opinions as the " fore- fathers" mentioned above ; that they did remain behind — that they did fight against the monarchy of England — that they did obtain the victory — that tlu'y did enjoy the ascendancy to their IN A3IEKI(A. 251 hearts' content— and that they did establish a commonwealth in England, not to flourish for ever as an example to the world, hut to be over- thrown by a military force, which brought back the son of the last khig amid the acclamations of every rank of society. Supposhig the blood to be shed, and the horrors to be passed through, that must be shed and passed through before the experiment of a commonwealth could be again tried in England, is it possible that it could exist, situated as Great Britain is with reference to the other powers of Europe, without an unemployed standing army ? and then again, is it possible that it could exist with one ? Where in the annals of the world can the compatibility of the one and the other be pointed to ? England is but paying the penalty ne- cessarily consequent on her career of prosperity. Her constitution can no more be blamed for the m if ■'iiV It" ; 4-, 4)^ m ■W' lis I m '25*2 SIX MONTHS the existence of a staiiding army, than for a superabundant population, or the enormous size of London. By what then is it probable that the career of the Union will be disturbed ? Are not wealth and luxury to have their due weight? It is to the credit of the Americans, that individual wealth has never yet been employed for any un- constitutional purpose ; but it is nevertheless true, that an aristocracy is most undeniably springing up in every city of the Union. In the course of time many large fortunes will be amassed, and opulent families will be distributed throughout the country. It will be but in the spirit of human nature, that a person in posses- sion of what in common American would be termed " an elegant location," should wish to have upon it a better house than his neighbours, and that another should wish to have a still IN AMERICA. i '253 ■,ii better; and is it to he believed that the head of a ricJi and ambitious family will be for ever, as now, restrained by the voice of public opinion from doing his utmost to prevent a fine place from going out of his family ? Can the inclination remain in thraldom, and the man be said to enjoy liberty ? Will not one example be followed as a precedent by five hundred others ? and will not an hereditary aristocracy be produced in this manner? The system of entails in England is consi- dered by the Americans as highly pernicious; but their idea of its extent is far beyond the truth. On this head I have heard great ignor- ance displayed by them. Some thhik that an entailed estate cannot be destroyed at all; but that an entailed estate cannot, in any case, be destroyed without the consent of the eldest son, is the more common error; one which is pre- valent with the uninitiated even in England, m •."id I'''. m til ■■ • v. ' : 1 ' "f . ■ lis* i i! *234 SIX MONTHS and is, of course, still more so among the Americans, who are l)iit little aware that an estate cannot, in any case, be rendered un- alienable for more than one generation; or, technically speaking, for more than a life or lives in being, and twenty-one years afterwards. This rule has been a favourite with English lawyers, because, on the one hand, it pre- vents landed property from being unavailable for commercial purposes for a longer period than one generation; and, on the other, it makes reasonable allowance for the English policy of keeping up the families of our nobi- lity and gentry. From whence then does the vulgar error principally arise? From this cir- cumstance : inider the usual form of settlement, the father has the present enjoyment of the estate, and the son has the inheritance in tail in exi)ectancy ; and in this case the father sr IN AM E MIC A. '255 ii* . '.('-.U and son, as soon as the latter is of age, may do what they please with the estate ; and it is a very common arrangement for them to agree to make a fresh settlement, which ties up the estate for another generation. But this is only an exercise of their absolute power of disposal, which they might, if they pleased, exercise by selling the estate, or other- wise getting rid of it. If no fresh settlement has been made, and the son outlives the father, he alone may do what he pleases with the estate, without asking the consent of his eldest son or of any other person. The Americans are little aware that there is not a nobleman's estate in the country, with the exception of Blenheim, Strathfieldsay, and perhaps half a dozen others, where the reversion is in the crown under some very old grant, which could not be absolutely disposed of, oner, af least, in iii ,■■■«« m ■r "J. 'I ^ \if •* m 25(> SIX MONTHS •■Si i': i,,j S II mm Wq IB' It every generation. That there is a power of making unalienable entails in Scotland, (witli irritant and resolutive clauses, as the Scotch lawyers have it), where the person making them is not indebted at the time, is a truth which I do not conceive could have given rise to the error respecting those in England. The proceedings at the next session of con- gress will be of the utmost importance, and before this work be out of the press, the tariff quescion will probably have given rise to as much angry discussion as has ever been heard within the walls of the capitol. The tariff, that is to say, the principle of effectual protection to domestic industry, is supported by about two- thirds of the American people. Manufactures sprung up during the late war, and millions of dollars have since been 4 IN A Mill I (A. •J;)/ ■if ^ invostcd in tliem on tlio faith of tlie tariff. Aftor tlie conclusion of hostilities, the war dnties were repealed generally; hut some of them were continued for the protection of domestic indus- try. This was effected in 1816, and hy the influence of the southern votes; and, strange as it may appear, was especially supported by the members of South Carolina; whilst the northern members were not generally partial to the measure. The southern stiites at that period, were averse to the expense of a naval est£d)lishment : they disliked foreign commerce, because it tended to embroil the country in disputes with the European powers, and they were therefore friendly to a moderate tariff. In 18-24, additional protection was given to manu- factures. It was opposed by New England and the south, and supported by the middle and western states. In 18-28, still further protection :* iir ,.•*, ^|- * •I 258 SIX MONTHS was ^iven, notwithstJindiiio- a violent (>])positi«)n from tlie soutliern states, who now felt the error they liad been guilty of. The tariff question, tlien, is simply this. The northern states are maniifaeturers ; the southern states are cotton {growers. The southern states have never o])jeetefl to such duties on imported foreign manufactures, as woidd be sufficient for the purposes of a revenue equal to the government expenditure ; but beyond what is necessary for the attainment of that object, they are entirely averse to the tariff, because Great Britain does not buy so mi 1i of their cotton as slie would if her manufactured goods were not excluded from the markets of the United States, by means of the protecting duties. The inhabitants of South Carolina are most violently opposed to the tariff'. One-third of them would, if they could, secede from the Union immediately. IV AArrUFCA. ♦2:)i) In the year 18-2.% the crop of cotton amounted to 4-20,000 l)alcs. In tlie year 18:H, the crop has hecn ascertained to he 1.070,000 hales, of which, 105,000 are consumed in the liome manu- factories, and the remainder is exported, chiefly to England. Certainly, if ever there was a country upon earth where the principles of free trade could he allowed an existence, that country is the states of North America, so long- as they remain united. When we contemplate their unhounded re- sources, and their endless extent, we must admit tliat they afford scope for a species of energy altogether without })resent parallel in the old continent; and it is difficult to believe, that free trade should not be a part of their system, not only because it would correspond with the boasted freedom of their institutions, but on account of the certainty of benefit they would ::i i(i ■I *2G0 SIX .Months iiltim;itoly dorivc from if. Mut i'rom tlic cntircl) (lift'eroiit souretvs of vvealtli of the iiortliorii and soutlurn states, there emanates a disparity of interests, wliich,\vith reference to tlie enormonsly increasing influence of the jiew cotton states, {ire, it is phiin, hut partially developed at present. The settlement of disputes arising from the differences of soil and climate, in themselves uncontroHable by legislative interference, must be a subject far more difficult to grapple with, than that which merely relates to internal im- provements, which may be assisted by an alte- ration of the constitution. Many Americans will probably tell you as they have told me, that the Union is becoming stronger and stronger ; they will assure you that there is a growing conviction, that the complaints of the southern states are without foundation, that their suffer- ings are chiefly imaginary, and that their citizens 'A IN A.MKKICA. Urtl will, sooner or later, come to tlie same opinion ; that four-fifths of all the articles tliat are taxed, either heavily or lightly, are consumed in the northern, western, and tlie tariff states, while at the same time a home market exists for from 150,000 to -200,000 bales of the best cotton of the southern states, at the best prices : that the party war which rages in newspapers throughout the Union, means nothing at all; and that, to use the quotation so well applied by Mr. Adams in his last 4th of July oration, delivered at Quincev, near Boston, « We angry lovers mean not half we say." It is probable that some part of what is said by an American country newspaper on the subject of party, may be nonsense ; but one cannot help being a little less sceptical, when higher authorities, and the proceedings of public meetings, are consulted, which, if we are to judge by the excitement they occasion, are not VOL. I. ♦2G-2 SIX MONTHS quite a farco, vvliatev. comity meetings may be in England. The report of the committee read at the anti-tariff convention, which took i)lace at Phi- la(lelj)hia on the 5th of Octol)er, 1831, contains amongst otliers, the following strongly worded passage, speaking of " that feeling of resentment which is goaded into activity by a sense of oppression, and embittered by the recollection, that it is the hand of a brother that inflicts it," it proceeds, " do you doubt its existence, its nature, or degree ; look to the character of this assembly, and the circumstances under which it is convened : give your attention to the history of the past, and be admonished by the novel and extraordinary spectacle which is presented to your view — do not close your eyes altogether to the fact, that this assembly is without pa- rallel in the annals of the government ; that we IV XMI,FI!< \. 1?6.0 are froomon, and tlio rcprosiMitativos of free- men, who speak fo you of our violated rights; tliat we liave come from diirereiit, and distant parts of tlie Union, to join in demandino- their restoration; that a consciousness of stren<»t]i is the ortsprin^r of mi i ted counsel; and that our purpose is not the less firm, because it is an- nounced to you peaceably, and in the spirit of conciliation." The reports of the different committees of investi^ration, appointed l,y the opposition or tariff convention, which commenced its sittings at New York on the 26th of October, had not appeared in print when 1 quitted America. Mr. Adams, a strong tariff man, and residing in the heart of the tariff, states, in his last 4th of .July oration, speaking of the doctrine of " nullification," which, he says, " contains within itself an absurdity, importing a pretended right f s 1> '2()4 SIX .^[()^■nIs W' of one state in tliis Union, l)y virtue of her sovereignty, to make that null and void which it pre-supposes to be null and void before," proceeds, by saying", "that it is a principle under wliich the pillars of the Union are tot- tering while he is speaking." On the other side, Mr. Ciilhoun, at the head of the anti- tariff party, and one of the cleverest men in America, in his " sentiments upon the sub- ject of state rights and the tariff," says, that " whatever diversity of opinion may exist in relation to the principle, or the effect on the productive industry of the country of the pre- sent, or any other tariff of protection, there are certain political consequences flowing from the present which none can doubt, and all must deplore. It would be in vain to attempt to conceal, that it has divided the country into two great geographical divisions, and arrayed IN AMKUItA. *265 them against each other, in opinion at least if not in interest also, on some of the most vital of political subjects— on its finance, its commerce, and its industry— subjects calculated above all others, in time of peace, to produce excitement, and in relation to which the tariff has placed the sections in question in deep and dangerous conflict. If there be any point on which the (I was going to say southern section, but to avoid, as far as i)ossible, the painful feelings such discussions are calculated to excite, I shall say) weaker of the two sections is unanimous, it is that its prosperity depends in a great measure on free trade, light taxes, eco- nomical and, as far as possible, equal disburse- ments of the public revenue, and an unshackled industry; leaving them to pursue whatever may appear most advantageous to their interests. From the Potomac to the Mississippi there are f I ! 2(>G SIX MONTHS m m IP I ( few, iiideetl, however divided on other points, who would not, if dependent on their volition, and if they regarded the interest of their parti- cular section only, remove from commerce and interest every shackle, reduce the revenue to the lowest point that the Munts of the govern- ment fairly required, and restrict the appropria- tions to the most moderate scale, consistent with the peace, the security, and the engage- ments of the pidjlic; and who do not believe that the opposite system is calculated to throw on them an unequal burthen, to repress their prosperity, and to encroach on their enjoyment. On all these deeply important measures the opposite opinion prevails, if not with equal unanimity, with at least a greatly preponderating majority in the other and stronger section, so much so that no two distinct nations ever enter- tained more opposite views of policy than these IN AMERICA. 267 two sections do on all the important points to which I have referred," &c. &e. " The sys- tem," he adds in a note, " if continued, must end, not only in subjecting the industry and property of the weaker section to the control of the stronger, but in proscription and political disfranchisement. It must finally control elec- tions and appointments to offices, as well as acts of legislation, to the great increase of the feel- ings of animosity, and of the fatal tendency to a complete alienation between the sections." The remedy proposed by Mr. Calhoun appears exceedingly reason^il-'e. In three years the nat'oiial debt of the United States will be paid off, aiul the government will find itself in possession of a surplus revenue of 10,000,000 or 12,000,000 of dollars, chiefly arising from the tariff duties. The applications from the dif- ferent states for its appropriation under the 268 SIX MONTHS m '1.1 > internal improvement system will be innumer- able, and it will be impossible to grant them without adding a stimulus to old causes of jealousy, and giving birth to new ones. To adopt the system of dividing the money be- tween the different states is admitted, on all hands, to be unconstitutional, not only because no such power is given by the articles of the constitution, but because the exercise of it would tend to render the individual states too dependent on the favour »f the general government. Mr. Calhoun recommends, that the money should be left in the pockets of the people, and affirms that there is but one " effectual cure — an honest reduction of the du- ties to a fair system of revenue, adapted to the just and constitutional wants of the government, and that nothing short of this will restore the coun- try to peace, harmony, and mutual affection." IN AMEKICA. •269 The example of good citizenship disphiyed by Massachusetts during the existence of the embargo in 1807, is now referred to as worthy of imitation by the southern states; a total stagnation of the trade of that state was the consequence of the Berlin decree, and the re- taliatory orders in council of the British govern- ment ; and in the opinion that the embargo was unconstitutional, the questio'i was tried before the supreme court of the United States, who decided in favour of the authority of the general govenmient. Massachusetts behaved with the best grace imaginable, conscious that there was no medium between submission and separation, — no alternative but acquiescence or disunion. Her behaviour might be imitated, but under very different circumstances. In the case of Massachusetts, the cause of the evil was inider- stood: it was external: it could be removed; I: 11 in; 270 SIX MONTHS y.Mi or rather would some clay cea^e as a matter of course; but with South Carolina, the disease is internal, existing in the time of peace, increasing, and most likely, beyond the reach of any but a temporary remedy. The first intimation I had of the existence of the tariff was likely to ha^e been a disagreeable one. When I landed at y^^'W York, I had with me an excellent double-barreled fowling-piece ; and I was told that I nwist either pay iliirty per cent, on its full value, or I could deposit it in safe- keeping at the custom-house till my return ; and in the mean time 1 could purchase an American gun cheap; 1 was indebted to the liberality of the gentleman presiding at the head of the custom-house, who, upon hearing from a friend that I had not brought it to sell, but merel^'^ for my pleasure, politely and immediately gave me an order for it. i b [i ^ IN AMEKICA. t>71 Tlie climate of Wasliingtoii has uiuler^ono a considerable alteration within the memory ot" those who have known it for the last forty years. Its healthiness has by no means increased as the forest has disappeared; on the contrary, the reverse effect has rather been prodneed. The real natnre of a climate cannot be known till it has been rendered lit for the habitation of man ; and no land can l)e said to be in that condition, till it has been })artially cleared and cultivated. The process in some places renders tlie climatvi warmer, and in others it has the effect of producing more cold; so that it does not always follow that clearing is productive of beneficial results. Since the forests of the Pyrenees have been gradually cut down and destroyed, the south of France is not nearly so desirable a residence for invalids as it was formerly. In Ciermany, a good effect has been f i 'M h 272 SIX MONTHS produced ; but not so at Washiugton. The summer is still excessively hot, (the thermometer ranging above ninety in the shade), and the winter very cold : originally these two seasons almost divided the year between them ; but now, the weather exhibits far more of the variableness of the climate of England. The vicissitudes of temperature are often pahiful, and frequently and rapidly produced by the most violent and piercing gusts of wind from the north-west. The cold of winter, although still very severe, has been much mitigated of late years. In 1780, the bay of the ChesLpeake was solid ice from its head to the mouth of the Potomac ; and in some places, at Aruiapolis for instance, from five to seven inches thick. In 1772, the snow in the district of Washington was nearly three feet deep, and in some places it drifted to the depth of ten or twelve. The length and severity of 'it IN A^rERI(•\. 273 ' the winters have much abated ; but still the climate, as I was informed by a g^entleman per- fectly acquainted with the subject, has not become more healthy. In the year 18-29, the average number of deaths for the last ten years, has been one in every fifty-three. The greatest morttdity prevails in the month of August, and the cases are cliiefly those of fever. It is owing to tlie malignity and greater variety of diseases, accidents, and privations, to w^iich the poorer inhabitants of the more thickly peopled cities are liable, that the annual mortality at New York is calculated as one to fifty ; and at Baltimore as one to forty-nine. In Charleston, South Carolina, it is as one to forty : the situation being more southerly, it is not so healthy as that of Washington. Every part of the United States is said to be more or less unhealthy during the summer If .1 ,li 274 SIX MONTH > It. M montlis; but tlio iiih;il)it«ants of tlie nortliorii and middle states, and of tlie \\i^\\ lands and ridgos, excepting in the vicinit) of water, enjoy a much purer air tlian that ])reathed by the inhabitants of th ith liern states, and the lower districts of tlie country. An American writer remarks, tliat " The intermitting fever which is confined to particular spots, seems to originate from the exhalations of marshes, and l)orders of stagnant whalers, though it is a curious fact and worthy the attention of physicians, that families who live in the neighbourhood of these places onjoy good health, while others ^\ilO inhabit the sum- mit of the adjacent hill, are victims to this annually returning malady. When marshy places become dry, fish, insects, and decaying vegetable substances exposed to the action of a burning sun, generate those gaseous miasms which, absorbed by the body, produce w^eak- I IN A.MKUM \. •27.5 noss, sickness, aiid death. Ascoiidin.r by tUo'ir lightness they are probably carried by the u iiids to a neighl)oiirin<>- eminence, where settlino-, they form a sickly and noxious atmosphere." I have more than once heard it remarked, .iuit the Americans of the present (hiy are not such men as fathers, the sol(h'ers of the \\ar of Independence. They can take as true an aim with a rifle, but cannot undergo the same fatigue, and are not so long lived, generally. The inhabitants of the more northern states of New England, are perhaps, exceptions ; but in any given number of the inhabitants of Georgia, and the Carolinas for instance, there are not so many persons to be found of ninety years old aid upwards, as among the same number of persons living in the country in England. I heard this from a gentleman on whose infor- mation I believed that I could rely : yet it is ■ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ,V4 7. 1.0 I.I 11.25 1^ 1^ IM m 2.0 iiiiim 1.4 6" Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREE* WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 CA 276 SIX MONTHS l|: II singular, that according to the census of 1830, the number of persons of a liundred years old and upwards, should be larger in the southern than in the northern states. The middle states could boast of a larger number of whites of a hundred years old and upwards, than airy other. New York in a population of 1,913,.508 contain- ing fifty-three, and Pennsylvania fifty-seven in a population of 1,347,672: the total nund>er in the United States was 26.54. The largest number in any one state was in Virginia, 479, but by far the greatest proportion of these are blacks. Mungo Park affirms that the negroes in Africa are not a long-lived race. Speaking of the Mandingoes, the general name for the inhabitants of the country watered by the Gambia, he says, " They seldom attain ex- treme old age. At forty, many of them become grey haired, and covered with v^Tinkles, but few IN AMEHKA. •J77 of tluMii survive the age of fifty-five or fifty." It is singular that they sliouhl atUiiii a greater age in the United Suites. By tlie Uihle whieh shows the number of persons of one liundred years ohi and upwards, it will he seen that the proportion of blacks of that age greatly exceeds that of the wliites ; but it may be remarked, that the ages of the blacks are not so well known as those of the whites ; and the accuracy therefore of tlie census, as it respects the Jiges of this class, IS less to be relied on. It may be remarked, that Dr. Kainsay, the historian of South Carolina, asserts, that those individuals who have been born and brought u|) in the northern sUites, and who have afterwards migrateil to the south, are usually more robust, more capable of withstand- ing the climate, and are longer lived than the natives of the south. Certain it is, that the Americans in general have not the healthy look \ i t VOL. I. !r I •278 SIX MONTHS of tlic Kn^■li8llln{l^. Tlio men are often tall, very powerful, particularly in Kentucky, and well pro- portioned ; but their complexions are not unfre- quently sallow, and climate-worn, with a counte- nance resembling that of a person just recovered from an iUness. This is partly the consequence of the climate, partly of their mode of living and their love of ardent spirits, still fatally prevalent. I am speaking of traveller's fare when I say, that the tavern tables are always well and plentifully supplied ; but no viands are thought so palatable as those that are swimming in melted butter. A beef steak that would be excellent if cooked au naturel, is almost in- variably placed at the head of the table, and in this manner almost invariably spoiled. At breakfast the bread and cakes cannot be too new, or too hot ; and fresh supplies arrive during the meal, which is usually despatched with the most IN A.MEUICA. •J/J) l^\tr{lordirlary rapidity. At New ^'ork I ouvo had the rahlech)th whisked from under my phite hy the imj)atient serNT.its. The natural eon- sequence is, an extreme prevalence of dyspej)sia i" all i)arts of the Tnited States, which is not lessened I)y the incredible quantity of soda uiiter, sweetened with different syrups, which is con- sumed l)y the Americans during the hot weather. At Baltimore I have drank, I think, the finest soda water I ever trusted. , The inns, or taverns, as they are called, which I met with were generally good, particularly in the towns ; those in the country, however, were sometimes exceedingly dirty and disagreeable. I have almost always found the greatest disposi- tion on the part of the landlord to render them as comfortable as possible, and have very seldom failed in my apj)lication for a room with a single bed, some of them containing as many as four ,! > i '2S{) SIX MONTHS or five. The Americans think nothinj^ of tliis. Upon one occasion, in Kentucky, where 1 had secured a single-beddetl room, the hmdlord wlio appeared to have been sur|)rised, and thouj^lit I must I)e ill, came up to me shortly afterwards, and most good-naturedly tokl me, that my room was ready: "As you're unwell, sir, I guessed you'd like to retire directly." The expense of living at the best inns in the United States \uries from two to three dollars a day. For this sum a person is provided with a bed, and four meals at stated hours. A coftee-room in the hotel for eating and drinking at one's own time, is a luxury the Americans have not yet attained to; at least I do not remember to have seen one anywhere. 1 did not find the regular hours so troublesome as I expected, as the great heat reiulered it impossible for weeks together to take any thing like severe exercise, excepting IN AMi:iM(,\. IMI •'it a very rarly hour of the luoriiiiiir, ,„• afftr Nix o'clock in the evening-. [ wouhl instance Mr. Head's tabh' at Phihi.h.lphia, as the hest in the United States. There was a qniet ^rentle- manlike styK>ahout it, that 1 nover saw surpassed, <»'• I'ardly equalled, l,y a tahle d'hote in anv country. I wish I coidd speak as well of the I.ed-rooms in that resj)ect; 1 nn.ch prefer those at Mr. Barnum'sat Baltimore, and Mr. dadshy's at Washington. Take it altogether, the 'JVeniont at Boston, is by fhr the best hotel in the States. Ice is to he Jiad in tlie greatest plenty in all |)arts of the I 'nited States ; I have even found it as a luxury at my toilette. On the subject of eating- ices, I found that nobody would t<Mich a water ice, and that in general cream ices only were to be met with, even at the best shops. The most fearful enemy of liealth is ardent spirits, lA-hich, by those mIio drink them at all, l''^ 28-2 SIX MONTHS are takoii at all hours, from four iu tlio morning till twelve .'it niju^lit, aiul swallowed uiuler the various and sulxlued appellations of hitters, ej(g-nojr^, mint-julep, and many others ; all sounding watery enouj^h to have captivated Sangrado himself. The Temperance Societies are an honour to the country. There are ahout 1000 of them in the United States, compose<l of 1 ,200,000 members, and affecting about 2,000,000 of individuals directly or indirectly. They have caused the suppression of 1000 distilleries, and i3000 retail stores. The members solemidv promise that they will not touch a drop of any kind of spirits : of course, the rules of the so- ciety are sometimes broken, particidarly as tliey allow wine and brandy when ordered by the doctor. I have heard it observed by those who are unfriendly to these associations, that an individual who cannot abstain from spirits with- IX AMEKKA. I'NJ out belonging to a tcinpenmir sofictv, \s ill iu»i rofraiii wIumi lie hocoincs a momlKM-; hut tlu'ir is a vast diflVrciicc hotween the strength of a resolution made to oneselt*, an<l known only to oneself, and a promise solemidy and puMidy ^iven, where fulfilment is demanded hy lioncun-, the fear of shame, and tlie duty of exam|)le. It is always observed, tliat when a member of the society has once relapsed into his old habits, his course is one of recklessness and desperation. That the societies have done good is inideni- able, by their influence on the wholesale trade in spirits at New York. i ) i i:\I) OF VOL. I. MftiiitiiigaiKl SiiiithJion, I'linK-i!!, LoiuI.mi-Ik.usc Van), St. Pm.iI's.