IP IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^1^1^ ■tt l&i 12.2 1.1 f.-"'^" ■SB Ij^ m 11^ IJ4 % %* signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbols ▼ signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too lar a to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames ns required. The fallowing diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartas, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de rAduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est filmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut an bas, en prenant le nombre d'imagas nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. ita lure, : !X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 mlK^W^!flW!^^''^^^'":%"- I ^£2£2S2 liiiliiHi i ^*;l 7 ^ / * • jp/':j''i ii'JiWi'ii^PipipPPIH^^ ■- i',nrivi ■ \ V HISTORY OF / \l THE OREGON TERRITORY AND BRITISH NORTH-AMERICAN FUR TRADE ; AN ACCOUNT OF THE HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIVE TRIBES ON THE NORTHERN CONTINENT. BY JOHN DUNN, /• ■ I.ATB OP THB HUDSOM'S BAT COMPANY, IIOHT YRARS A RESIDENT IN THE COUNTRY. ^ ^^ fmi!f^.jl^i I, i 1 y{!tW|!J||M^p^pppiipi 1 1 , 1 ,J,,UWW-.J I J|IiWP:-W''«||lll,itW. WW"?.'' !■■ *».fH I THta) . J ; J «^T=!-C ; /!T4j 'I!c^a3.a "^ ' ■^/'■»^ ^f**l' ' * V,' PREFACE. I SHALL not encumber the reader with a tedious detail of my motives in publishing this work ; or of its bcheme ami plan. This is a kind of egotism, and currying favour with the reader, already carried to great excess. But I shall state a few facts— due to myself to give, and to the readeir to know. Having been articled to the Hudson's Bay Company, I left my father's home in London, in their ship, the Ganymede, for their settlements on the Pacific. It is needless for me to give any account of our outward voyage (though I met with some strange adventures) to the Sandwich Islands— at which we stopped for a short time ; and thence to the Columbia river. Having arrived at the western head-quarters of the Company — Fort Van- couver; on the northern shore of the river, ninety miles from its mouth— I was placed in the fort, in the situation of assistant store-keeper. After remaining in the fort nearly a year, I was commissioned to proceed northward, in the Company's ships, on trading and exploring expe- ditions; threading, in our various courses, the whole of the vast labyrinth of gulphs, sounds, straits, bays, and inlets, that interlace the whole of the Pacific shore, for many hundred miles inland, and along many degrees of latitude. Here I was in the character of trader and interpreter; and assisted at the erection of several forts, in various parts of the country, never before occupied. I then returned to the Columbia ; and was placed, for t>onie i^iilp m^i^mmmili w msh time, in charge of Fort George, near the moutli of the river— -now an outpost attached to Vaacouver— the famous Astoria, so much vaunted of by the Americans, as their settlement; from which they once threatened, to use Washington Irving's phrase, to *< sweep the Pacific ; " and spread their internal trade through the Canadas, and the Polar Circles ; and banish the Britiahert as traders, if not as residents, from the whole northern continent — a boastfbl threat, which they have signally failed to execute. They made, however, every endeavour to realise this most ardent wish of their hearts, but have been completely foiled. In place of being the expellers, they are themselves, in a great measure, the expelled — the result of their own irregular mode of dealing, and cupidity ; which have roused against them the distrust, indignation, and hatred of the natives. Having spent eight years in the Company's service, I was induced by my father, who had other projects in store for me, to return home. On my return, although I was, from my knowledge of those Americans that traded on the coast, or had squatted in the south-western part of Oregon, or have lately been employed by the Company as trappers, prepared to hear any monstrous assumptioi. i of right set forth by the American populace, through their loco foco organs of the press, I did not expect that the respectable portion of the press— much less that their functionaries and ministers of state, even up to the President — would echo the opinions of the rabble that controls the legislature. But, to my surprise, I found that the subject was viewed by them through the democratic spectacles. At the opening of Congress, in 1843, the President, without any previous provocation to the declaration; but from tiie desire, if not the necessity, too characteristic of American presidents and governments, of pandering to the passions and feelings of the multitude from whom they derive their periodical being— volunteered the announce- iii -^'^mmwrnm ment to the whole world, that the whole territory is American, and th/tt American it will be preserved and maintained. But this is not merely the averment of the President; but the whole current of a most vehement debate runs in support of this firaudulent assertion of a claim. Says the President:—* ** The territory of the United States, commonly called the Oregon territory, lying on the Pacific Ocean, north of the 42nd degree of latitude, to a portion of which Great Briuiin lays claim, begins to attract the attention of our felloAV* citizens ; and the tide of population, which has re- claimed what was lately an unbroken wilderness in ^nore contig^ious regions, is preparing to flow over those vast distric'^s which stretch from the Uocky MoF\ntains to the Pacific Ocean." I published in The Timest and other leading periodi- cals, on the appearance of this document, an exposition of the true facts of the case. My statement became the subject of many articles ; and the British people awoke to a true knowledge of their interests, which the Ame- ricans wished to wrest from them. I showed, that up to 1814, they never claimed more than the right of joint occupancy — that after the Florida treaty, they took a bolder tone, and claimed exclusive right — that in 1827, they never ventured to claim beyond the 49th degree. But now they take a bolder tone still ; and, on the gam- bling principle of « all or nothing," claim up to the Russian frontier. As there was no work lately published by an English- man, descriptive of the country, and the relative position of parties ; and as the books already published by flying American travellers, who had picked up their accounts piecemeal, in different parts, are strongly tinged by preju- dice ; I imagined that a true and dispassionate account of the whole country would tend to place the question on its proper basis. I thought then — and this thought was i.iSP*, >"■■" ,*>'T'W v^.mn>.'i.t>!jl!!'^f£i^!!^' ■ ■ ^'-w^-'^ t ■ ^'^ ■■iifi|y'-w!!ip/WwwiH VI strengthened by some judicious friends, who had seen the several statements that I published, and had examined my rough log-book — that if I had given a fair and dis- passionate view of the Oregon territory, and of the relative position, and social pretensions of the contending parties ; the British public, being awakened to the subject, would be enabled to come to a sound judgment on the whole question. Though I have not given the whole amount of my notes, I am persuaded that this book will convey a fairer, and more concentrated impression, than all the American factious books that have been hitherto published on the subject. It is true that this book occasionally portrays some dark features in the American character: but let the reader clearly observe, that in depicting the American character, I quote American authority; and that in showing the weakness of their pretensions to the country, I quote historical and diplomatical facts — facts not questionable by the Americans themselves. In brief, and in simple truth, my object is to give the British public an honest, and, as to leading characteristics, a fall account of the Oregon country. I had another object in view, which was to give an account of the British North- American Fur Trade — of which there has been no consecutive account hitherto given. I have given a skeleton map of the Oregon country, and of the whole coast ; contenting myself with the general position of the most important places, as a help to the reader : without pretending to enter into the minuteness of a full chart or map. ^j^ |8- ve • 'ilPs^iTS'SW'! >' /' r CONTENTS. PACE Chap. I.— Discovery of North America by the English— Im- portance of the Fur Trade — French Canadian Pur Traden — Coureurs des Bois, or Rangers of the Woods . . , 1 Chap. II. — Hudson's Bay Company — its incorporation, and its privileges 8 Chap. III.— British Canadian Fur Trade— Establishment of the North-West Company — its organisation and operations — rivalry between it and the Hudson's Bay Company . .14 Chap. iy.«— Establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company's settlement, under Lord Selkirk, at Red River — destruc- tion of it by the North- West Company . . . .38 Chap. V. — ^Trappers, or beaver hunters— Yoyagenrs, or boatmen 47 Chap. VI. — Description of the present settlement at Red River —Hunting the Bufiklo 63 Chap. VII. — Remarlis on the Company's present principles of dealing ; and the mode of traffic among many of the Northern tribes 81 Chap. VIII.— The Knistenatx Indians 88 Chap. IX.— The Chipewyan Indians 101 Chap. X.— Mouth of the Columbia — Description of the native tribes — their appearance— habits— Extraordinary custom of compressing the head — Burial of dead — Small pox — Fever with ague — their mode of doctoring — Fishing customs — Fort George — Mr. Wyeth and the American Fishing Es- tablishment . . . .112 Chap. XI.— Fort Vancouver — its Farm establishments — Dr. ^ John M'Loughlin- Bachelor's Hall— Officers' wives— Half- breeds' horsemanship — Trapping parties leaving Vancouver —the Canadian cook and boatswain 141 mamsi -r.X -,?^i'^-- Viii COnTBNTB. TAOT. Chap. XII. — Wappatoo Island and Wallamette Settlement— Faraham's Narrative — Missionaries — Settlers — Fanning operations— Catholic priest— Captain Young and the Hnd> son's Bay Company ' . . 167 Chap. XIII.— General Outline of the Oregon Territory . .202 Chap. XIV.— Astoria, or Fort George— Formation of the Ame- rican Fur Trade — Captain Thorn — his tyrannical disposition ^The Loss of the Tonquin 218 Chap. XV.— Extension of the British to the north of the mouth of the Columbia — Contrast between the British and Ameri- can mode of trading— Cape Flattery— Native tribes— The country — Settlements at Nasqually and Cowlitze — Frazer's River— Gulf of Georgia— Vancouver's Island— The Coquilth and Newettee tribes — their customs — Discovery of a mine of coal . 227 Chap. XVI.— Fort H'Loughlin — Voyage from it all along the intricate inlets or canals — ^Various .tribes— their appearance and customs— their religious ceremonies — Extraordinary superstition of cannibal fanaticism — Masquerades — Point Day — Interior canals— Sebassa tribe — their customs— old women with slit lips — Kidnapping of slaves . . . 262 Chap. XVII. — Fort Simpson— the surrounding country, and the various tribes — Indian revenge — Queen Charlotte's Island^Customs of the tribe — Indian ingenuity — Loss of the schooner Vancouver . . ^ . • • • 278. Chap. XVIII. — Relative claims of Great Britain and America to the Oregon Territory considered 296 Chap. XIX.— Flat-heads— their strong devotional feeling — Black'feet— Religious belief— Snakes — Flutes— Strange probationary rites — Conduct of the Americans, as attested by American writers 311 Chap. XX.— Fort Hall — Trappers — Buffalo — Shooting the rapids — Passage from the United States across the Rocky Mountains 888 Chap. XXI.— Missionaries .849 i"* l^iPJJgl^fS^WppiWI^^PipWWJpiW^lp^T^!^^ "" >^ HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL' ACCOUNT or THB OREGON TERRITORY, AHO or TBS BRITISH NORTH-AMERICAN FUR TRADE, CHAPTER I. Discovery of North America by the English — Importance of the Fur Trade— French Canadian Fur Traders — Cou- reurs des Bois, or Rangers of the Woods. Thb discovery of America by Columbus, and the great acquisitions resulting from it to Spain, soon awoke a spirit of adventure in England : and an Expedition was fitted out from Bristol under the command of Cabot, a merchant there, under the patronage of Henry VII., in 1497. This Expe- dition discovered Newfoundland, and sailed along the continent from the coast of Labrador to that of Virginia. Thus England was the second nation that visited the New World ; and the nation, the extent and importance of whose possessions have ever been only second to those of any other state — Spain, formerly, and the Republic of America WW at present. Her possessions she has always made every effort to maintain; and there never was a time when she was more imperatively called on to maintain her territories and her commerce in that continent than she is now. The discoveries of Cabot opened the way for other adventurers during the next century. The French, under Gartier, penetrated as far as the island of Montreal, and, in 1608, founded a colony in that district. In two years after (1610), the English ex- plored Hudson's Bay. Both nations soon found that in the cold and repulsive forests and plains of the north there was a source of wealth, if not as imme- diately attractive as the gold and silver furnished to tae Spaniards in the genial regions of the south, yet as enduring and valuable as an article of commerce — the peltries of its wild animals. This incentive caused the wildest and remotest regions to be ex- plored, and the greatest difficulties and dangers to be braved and surmounted ; and has carried in its course more civilization and social improvement than ever followed the track of those adventurers after the wealth of Mexico and Peru. It was the fur trade which, in fact, gave early sustenance and vitality to the great Canadian pro- vinces. T^e adventurers who had settled on the KtV it T' 'T ~ ■BBai HUtUlii ..i V mmi&. ' iH*< A . %< II i^'r. t . ,4 e-house, and took away 480 beaver skins. 28 Corrigal soon after went to Haldane, and demanded the restoration of the property. Haldane answered that ''he came for fars, and fiirs he was deter- mined to have." These furs were afterwards car- ried to the grand portage, and formed a part of the Company's returns for that year. A similar attack was made in the same year on another sta- tion, at the Red Lake, also under the charge of Mr. Corrigal, and 50 heaver skins, together with a large quantity of cloth, brandy, tobacco, ammuni- tion, &c. carried off. In the autumn of this year, J. Crear, a trader, in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, (also on the establishment of Albany Factory,) oc- cupied a post with five men at Big Fall, near Lake Winnipeg. One evening a party of Canadians, under the command of Mr. Alexander McDonnell, then a clerk of the North-west Company, encamped at a short distance. On the following morning McDonnell and his party came to Crear's house, in the absence of four of his men, and, charging him with having traded furs from an Indian who was indebted to the North-west Company, insisted on their being given up to him. Crear refused; and on this, M'Donnell broke open the ware- house, and struck Crear in the face with the butt' If % ^mfrnw^f^mmf I I .IW|BI*pp,|llPI' end of his gun, inflicting on him a severe wound, and stabbed his remaining servant in the arm with a dagger. They then carried off the furs, a quantity of provisions, and a canoe. On the following February, one of McDonnell's assist- ants, at the head of a party, attacked Crear*s house, beat him and his men, and carried off a great number of valuable furs. They then com- pelled Crear, with threats of instant death, to sign a paper acknowledging that he voluntarily gave up the furs, as not being properly his. On another occasion, William Liukwater, in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, was rctum- lijg to his station at Rein-deer Lake, bringing on a sledge a quantity of valuable furs, which he had traded from the Indians. He was met, near his own house, by Mr. Duncan Campbell, one of the partners of the North-west Company, at the head of a body of men, and was called on to give tliem up. On his refusal, Campbell cut the traces of the sledge, beat him, and bore off the furs, for I'hicb no compensation was ever after made. The North-west Company, having been esta- blished some years at Isle a la Crosse, near the borders of the Athabasca coimtry (but within the territovies claimed by the Hudson's Bay MMMM ■^iffWlP" 1 f» I 30 Company under their charter), had obtained what they called the attachment of the Indians: i. e., they reduced them to a state of awe and sub- mission. To this place Mr. Peter Fidler was sent, in 1809, with a party of eighteen men, from Churchill Factory, to establish a trading post. The Company's officers had, on many former, occa- sions, attempted to establish a trade in this place, which is the crTViire of a country abounding in bea- ver ; but they w ^ Iways obliged to relinquish the attempt. In order the more effectually to overawe the Indians from dealing with Mr. Fidler, and to deter him from any attempt to protect his cus- tomers, the North-west Company reinforced their post with an extra number of Canadians. A watch-house was built at his door ; so that no In- dian could enter unobserved. Here a party of professed hattailleurs, or bullies, were SvUdoned, and employed not only to watch and scare away the Indians, but to give every possible annoyance day and night to the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. Their fire- wood was stolen — ^they were perpetually obstructed in hunting for pro- visions — the produce of their garden was destroyed — ^their fishing lines stolen in the night time ; and their nets, on which they chiefly relied for subsif- mmmmmm wniP"">^Tni f 31 tence, cut to pieces. At length, growing bolder with success, they issued a formal mandate, that not one of the Hudson's Bay Company's servants should stir out of the house. The consequence was that Fidler and his party were driven away, and the Canadians burnt the hut to the ground. It was not only the prosecution of trade, on the part of the Hudson's Bay Company, that their rivals thwarted, but even attempts to explore the country. This Ikd.. Ifidler had been despatched in 1807 to explore a part of the country through which a more advantageous communication may be opened into Athabasca. He was employed merely as a surveyor; yet he was tracked on his route, and interrupted in every way; and the In- dian who acted as his guide was attacked, for his breach of duty to the North-west Company, and most cruelly maltreated. To these, and many similar outrages, the diffi- culty of obtaining legal redress gave, to a certain extent, impunity. It is true there was an act passed by the Imperial Parliament, in 1803, called the "Canadian Jurisdiction Act," to repress and punish such crimes ; and it was passed in conse- quence of the complaints made of the many as- ilMi iw»f,>^pym.ni 5?^ ■J/y If n 82 saults of the servants of the Old and New North- west Companies on each other, when these com- panies were violent competitors, — before their union. By this Act, the courts of law in Canada were allowed to take cognisance of .any offences com- mitted within the "Indian territories." But though Canadians contending against Ca- nadians may not have been brought under the operation of this Act, yet when the struggle and the contention came to be between the Canadians united on the one side, (after the junction of the Companies,) and the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company on the other, it would have been next to an impossibility for a Hudson's Bay Com- pany complainant — a stranger — to obtain redress at Montreal for an outrage committed by a Cana- dian, perhaps at a distance of three or four thou- sand miles. The Canadians were in possession of all the water and land passages to Montreal — their friends and employers were then willing and able to assist them, and they could have no lack of witnesses. But how could a servant of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had no command of the line of route, and who Lad no intercovr.tc with Canada, and no agent there, convey his witnesses ^^mm^i^^^^-^^mim^^ . iiiyi!ij.,i|iji|iiti;ujiM,|P 33 safbly sncli a distance, and by such a route ; and how could he hope for equal focility of main- taining his cause in Montreal ? There was only one case brought to trial for twelve years. This case, if truly reported, fur- nishes an example of gross oppression. In 1809, Mr. W. Corrigal, of the Hudson's Bay Company, occupied a post near Eagle Lake, to the north of Lake Superior. A party of the North West Company established, on the 15th of September, an encampment about forty yards from his house, under the command of Mr. ^neas McDonnell, a clerk of the latter Company. On the evening of their encampment, an Indian arrived in his canoe, bringing a cargo of furs, in part payment of a debt which he owed Corrigal; and remained at his house all night. Next morning, as he was returning home with some goods — such as clothing, ammunition for his winter's hunt, &c., McDon- nell, with two of his servants, went down to the wharf, and seized on the loaded canoe, on the alledged ground that he was indebted to the North- west Company. Corrigal, [witnessing the occur- rence, sent down two of his men to secure the canoe. M'Donnell drew his sword and severely wounded one of the men — Tate. This scene soon mmfimmmm mmmmi'immm 84 brought np reinforcements from both sides ; and a general fight ensued^ during which M^onnell did great execution with his sword. Corrigal's party were obliged to retreat in a sad plight. In the pursuit, McDonnell was about to cut down a person named Mowatt, whom he had previously wounded, when Mowatt turned round and shot him on the spot. This put a stop, then, to hostilities. The North-west Company's servants despatched cou- riers to their friends in the neighbouring posts, and on the next day assembled in large bodies before Corrigal's house, which he had in the mean time barricaded, demanding, with threats of instant de- struction to the whole party in case of refrisal, that the person who shot McDonnell should be given up. Mowatt then stepped forward, and said that he was the man, and would do it again in his own defence. He then surrendered himself, and it was agreed that two of his party, Tate and Leask, should be taken with him, as his wit- nesses, straight to Montreal; but if he were de- tained till spring, then one of them was to be sent back to Eagle Lake, and Mr. Gorrigal himself was to go to Montreal as his witness. They ac- cordingly were taken to the North-west Company's encampment, where Mowatt was placed in irons. as They were thence remoyed to a station called Lac La Pluie, where th^ were detained till the 26th of February, Mowatt being kept all the time in irons, and his witnesses subjected to great suffering. On the 26th of February Leask was sent back, and Mr. Corrigal set out. He, Tate, and the prisoner arrived at Fort William on the 9th of June. On the 21st, Mr. A. Shaw, a partner, and a magistrate for the Indian terri- tory, under the Act of 1803, arrived £rom Mon- treal, and ordered Mowatt to be summoned before him. Mowatt refused to answer any questions, saying he wished to be taken at once to Mon> treal and placed on his trial. He was ordered back to the close and solitary dungeon in which he had been confined, and placed under heavy irons. Here he was detained till the 17th of August, though canoes were constantly plying be- tween that place and Montreal. When he was taken out to be removed to Montreal, he fell down twice from weakness, and cut his face with his handcuffs. During his confinement it was feared by the jailor that the solitude and privation were driving him to ddMum, and his razors were re- moved. Corrigal and Tate arrived soon after, and 86 to their surprise, were arrested, as accessories to the murder. Thus was the prisoner deprived of his only means of defence; and two men, really innocent of the act, who went down according to previous agreement, as witnesses — ^free and uncharged, a distance of 1500 miles in his behalf, were en- trapped into a prison. The three were penniless, unknown, and unfriended in Montreal. It was not till the end of November that the directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, who at that time had no agent or correspondent in Montreal, or any place in Canada, heard of the prosecution thus carried on against their servants; and they then took steps for their defence by engaging counsel. The prisoners remained in prison about six months; and during most of that time endured great hard- ship. They were indicted for murder. The grand juiy returned a trtte bill against Mowatt, but ig- nored the bills against the others. At Mowatt's trial the influence of the North-west Company was evident. The jury was generally believed to have been packed; and more than one indication of manifest partiality was exhibited from the bench. Though it was clearly proved that M'Donnell be- gan the attack without provocation; and that Mowatt fired in self defence, he was found guilty 87 of manslaugliter, and sentenced to be imprisoned for six montlis (having been already in close con- finement for eighteen months), and branded in the hand with a red-hot iron. Such are the leading facts of this memorable case, about which much has been written, and which awakened the attention of the British pub- lic to one of the modes of carrying on the Cana- dian fur trade. From the bitter spirit in which these contests were carried on, and the crimina- tions and recriminations so liberally and boldly dealt out on both sides, it is not easy now to ar- rive at a clear conclusion as to the relative amount of delinquency of either party. The weight of evidence, however, seems to incline in favour of the Hudson's Bay Company. They had no occa- sion, at least were not under the same necessity of resorting to violent means for securing a pro- fitable trade as their rivals. They had a Charter which gave them great advantages; they had not An equal force to present against their rivals ; and besides, the scene of operations lay at a great dis- tance firom their head-quarters. But, however, good came from the evil : it led to a junction, and the undisturbed and salutary prosecution of the whole trade.' mill ■MM 88 CHAPTER IV. Establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company's settlement, under Lord Selkirk, at Red Rivera-destruction of it by the North-west Comp&ay. It may net be uninterestiiig to give an account of a very judicious and laudable attempt made by tbe Hudson's Bay Company, to establish an agricultural colony, as tbe nucleus, firom which, in progress of time, civilised society would spread in the] territories of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany — an attempt which, unhappily, was marred by the influences of avarice and jealousy. The company had long been of opinion that, as the country over which they held imlimited jurisdic- tion contained so many natural resources, and was capable of yielding other riches besides furs, it would be desirable, for many reasons, to establish colonies in the interior; for, independently of the advantages accruing to the settlers themselves for acquiring the means of independent subsistence, perhaps denied to them in their native country. 39 the example of ell regulated communities, shew- ing a respect for law, order, integrity, and religion, would operate beneficially in the commercial inter- course between the rude natives and the licentious traders, But to found such colonies in a country so £ax removed from any civilised establishments was a matter surrounded with difficulties. It re- quired persons of property, influence, and judgment to undertake the management of the plan. Lord Selkirk, who possessed considerable spirit of enterprise, and, acquired some note as a writer on colonial emigration, entered into a negociation with the company. They accordingly, on condition of speedy settlement, made to him a grant of land in a salubrious and fertile district, where the land was abundantly si^pplied with buffalo and other wild cattle, and the lakes and rivers with excellent fish. He commenced then, in 1812, a settlement at Bed Biver, near its junction .with the Assini- boiu Biver, to the south of Lake Winnipeg. Miles M'Donnell, Esq., formerly a captain in the queen's rangers, was selected to conduct the undertaking, and was, at the same time, appointed governor of the district, under the authority conferred by the com- pany's charter. Though the settlement was formed in a district which had been exhausted of valuable wm tm^^ Wft^W^'K I'l "III 40 furs hj the extiipation'of the beaver ; and though the settlers were prevented, by the very tenure of their lands, from interfering in the fur trade, and wers thus exempted from the suspicion of rivalry; yet, extraordinary as it may appear, the North-west Company, from the very moment that the Hud- son's Bay Company engaged in the plan of form- ing an agricultural settlement upon an extended scale within their territories, avowed their determined hostility to the settlement ; or to any execution, how>* ever partial, of such a project. As they wished to hold exclusive possession of the countiy, they were jealous of any establishment that could be formed within the range of their monopoly, where habits of sobriety, and principles of moral integrity would operate as a check on the conduct of their serv- ants; and they resolved to destroy it. The settlement presented every appearance of growing prosperity. Emigrants were arriving; and the Indians evinced a friendly disposition. But in the autumn of 1814, after a general meeting of the partners of the North-west Company, held at Fort William, near, Lake Superior, an expedition was fitted out against it. The intentions of the North-west Company can be judged of by a letter from Mr. Alexander M'Donuell, one of the partners, 41 dated August 5, and addressed to a brotli> -in-Iav of the Hon. William MfGill^vrayj another of the partners, residing in Montreal. "You see myself, and our mutual friend BCr. Cameron, so far on our way to commence open hostilities against the enemy. Much is expected from us. One thing certain is, that we will do our best to defend what we consider our rights in the interior. Nothing but the complete downfall of the colony will satisfy some, by fair or foitl means — a most desirable object if it can be effected. So here is at them with all my heart and energy." Their first plan of proceeding was to seduce or frighten away as many of the colonists and their servants as they could; and raise the Indians to destroy the settlement. Previously to their setting out, Messrs. M'DonneU and Cameron provided themselves with the uniforms of British military officers, and administered an oath in Fort William to their followers to obey^^aU the orders of their commander for the defence of the interests of the company in the North-west. On their arriving at Fort Gibraltar, a fort belonging to the Nortk-west Company, within about a mile of the Bed River settlement, Cameron assumed the style and title of commander, alledging that government had I. conferred that appointment upon him, and issued proclamations in that character. Their first step was to excite discontent among the settlers: and several of them were induced, by prospects of re- ward or by intimidation, to desert, and pillage the settlement ; which they did ; for among other arti- cles, they took off nine pieces of artillery, with a quantity of muskets and ammunition, sent out by the board of ordnance for its defence; Cameron and his party being posted imder arms close by ready to sup- port the plunderers if resisted. The settlement being thus deprived of its principal means of defence, and harrassed for months by a series of other ag- gressions and losses, it was at last determined, in June 1815, that Cameron should alcack it with his whole force^ This attack, followed up by others, having failed,-though attended with much damage to the colony, the assailants brought the artillery to battel^ down the buildings Then at last the governor was obliged to surrender, and he was sent a prisoner to Montreal, under a warrant firam a partner of the North-west Company on a charge of having prohibited the exportation of provisions; and having detained some bags of pemican (a prepara- tion of dried buffalo meat) belonging to the com- pany. The remainder of them were expelled; lij^ 43 their cattle slaughtered ; and their buildings le- velled down. Messrs. M'DonneU and Cameron were treated with great distinction by the company, and in approbation of their services were retauied in their former posts. But in Autumn, the colonists who had been driven out returned with an accession to their numbers, partly from Scotland, and partly from Canada, under the conduct of Mr. Colin Robertson, a gentleman in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, and resumed the occupation of their fields at Bed River. Soon after, Robert Semple, Esq., who had been appointed governor over the whole of the Hudson's Bay territories, anived at Red River. The North-west Company now felt that a more vigorous effort than the former could alone enable them to destroy the renovated set- tlement. The previous stratagems, of sowing dis- affection, and influencing the colonists, were now impracticable. They were committed in open war- fare with the Hudson's Bay Company; their sole hopes then lay in superior physical power. An . ^usually large force was collected, in the spring of 1816, at North-west Fortt on the river Qui Appelle, within the Hudson's Bay territories, under ■««|»1;'-H,'i.,^»(,,. 44 the command of Alexander M'Donnell. To form this force, requisitions had been made upon various forts of the North-west Company, to a veiy great distance ; all of whom contributed their quotas. The greatest energy was exhibited by the different part- ners of the Company. Mr. Duncan Campbell, a partner who commanded at Fort Cumberland, in despatching his reinforcements, told them that it was indispensable that they should have the Qo- Temor, Mr. Semple, and Mr. Bobertson, or their heads. The Hudson's Bay Company had a. post like- wise on the river Qui Appelle, in the vicinity of the post where M'Donnell commanded. This river is one of the tributaries to the Bed Biver. The post established there b/ the Hudson's Bay Company was one of those denominated provision posts; and from it large quantities of provisions were sent down in boats to the Bed Biver for the use of the colony, and the company. Governor Semple hearing at Bed Biver that the North-west Company were collecting a large force at Qui Ap- pelle, and fearing they would prevent the arrival at the settlement of the provisions expected from that quarter, despatched a Mr. Pambrun with an escort, to ensure their safe arrival. This party, 45 on their return with the provisions, as well as a quantity of furs and other property, were attacked by a superior force, at an intricate part of the river, where resistance was hopeless — were made prisoners, and carried back, with the cargo, to McDonnell's position at Qui Appelle, McDonnell, when all the expected levees had ar- rived, set out for the attack of the colony, and on his way sacked the Hudson's Bay Company's boats at Brandon House. Having arrived at a place called Portages des Prairies, about sixty miles from the colony, he halted there with the main body of his forces, and sent forward a detachment of about seventy horsemen, under the command of Cuthbert Grant. The Governor, Mr. Semple, having learned that an armed body of men was at hand, and captur- ing some of the settlers, proceeded with about thirty attendants to meet them, hoping by his presence and authority, to prevent hostilities, especially as he was ignorant of their number, and real inten- tions. He was soon surroimded and summoned to surrender : on his refusal he and his party were instantly slain, with the exception of one who was kept a prisoner, and four who escaped, in the tumult, across the river. Grant employed the prisoner to induce the inhabitants of the settlement, and of 46 the Hudson's Bay Company's fort attached to it, to make an entire and imconditional surrender, as the only means of escaping from destruction. There was no alternative: they were reduced to utter helplessness and despair: and accordingly they sur- rendered every thing, begging only for their lives. The certificate of protection granted to each indi^ vidual ran thus:— • " This is to certify that behaved honourably to the North-west Company." \ CuTHBERT Grant, Clerk to the North-west Company. This document shows that either real or sup- posed interference with the interests of the com- pany constituted, originally, the chief crime of the settlers. These survivors were immediately em- barked in canoes, to the number of 200, including women and children, with a very insufficient stock of provisions for their journey, to Hudson's Bay. Thus was the downfall of the colony, according to M'Donnell's intimation in his letter, effected. The majority of the sufferers were Scotch, and the con- ductors of the attack were their own countrymen It shows what the love of gain can do. lip IP 47 CHAPTER IV. Trappers, or beaver hunters— Voyagenn, or boatmen. In the old times of the Canadian for trade when the trade in furs was chiefly pursued about the lakes pnd rivers, the expeditions were, in a great de- gree, carried on in batteaux and canoes. But a totally difPerent class now sprung up— the "moun- taineers" — the traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue their hazardous vocation amidst their wild recesses— moving from place to place on horseback — exposed not alone to the perils of the wilderness, but to the perils of attack £rom fierce Indians, to whom it has be- come as favourite an exploit to harass and way-lay a band of trappers with their pack-horses, as it is to the Arabs of the desert to plunder a caravan. The equestrian exercises in which they are con- stantly engaged — ^the nature of the country they traverse — ^vast plains and mountains pure and ex- hilarating in their atmospheric qualities — seem to I 48 make them, physically and mentally, a more lively, yigorous, daring and enduring race than the fur traders and trappers of former days, who generally had huts or tents to shelter them from the in- clemency of the seasons — were seldom exposed to the hostility of the natives, and generally were within reach of supplies from the settlements. There is, perhaps, no class of men on the earth who lead a life of more continued exertion, danger and excitement; and who are more enamoured of their occupations, than the free trappers of the wild regions of the west. No toil, no danger, no privation, can turn the trapper aside from his pursuit. If his meal is not ready in time, he takes his rifle — ^hies to the forest — shoots his game — lights his fire; and cooks his repast. With his horse and lus rifle he is independent of the world, and spurns its restraints. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his path — in vain may rocks, and precipices, and wintry torrents oppose his progress; let but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he forgets all danger, and defies all difficulties. At times he may be seen, with his traps on his shoulder, bufieting his way across rapid streams amidst floating blocks of ice : at other times may he be seen, with his traps 't 49 slnng on his back, clambering the most ragged mountains — scaling or descending the most fright- ful precipices — searching hj routes inaccessible to horse, and never before trodden by white man, for springs aud lakes unknown to his comrades, where he may meet with his favourite game. This class of hunters are generally Canadians by birth, and of French descent ; who, after being bound to serve the traders for a certain number of years and receive wages, or hunt on shares, then continued to hunt and trap on their own ac- count, trading with the company like the Indians ; hence they are called free men. Having passed their youth in the wilderness, in constant inter- course with the Indians, and removed from civi- lised society, they lapse with natural facility into the habits of savage life. They generally inter- marry with the natives, and, like them, have often a plurality of wives. Wardens of the wilderness, according to the vicissitudes of the seasons, the migrations of animals, and the plenty or scarcity of game, they lead a precarious and unsettled ex- istence, exposed to sun and storm, and all kinds of hardships, until they resemble the Indians in complexion, as well as in tastes and habits. From time to time they bring their peltries to the trading 50 houses of the company, and barter them for such articles as they may require. When Montreal was the great emporium of the fur trade, some of them would occasionally return, after an absence of many years, to visit his old associates. There they would squander the long and hard earned firnits of their labo urs ; and after the fit of revelry was over go back to their former toils, and the frsedom of the forest. Some few of them, however, retained a little of the thrift and forethought of the civilised man, and became wealthy among their improvident neighbours; their wealth consisting chiefly of laj^ bands of horses, scattered over the prairies in the vicinity of their abodes. - There was another class — ^the native Indians of Canada, who had partially conformed to the habits, of civilisation, and received the doctrines of Christi- anity, under the influence of the French colonists and the Roman Catholic priests, who certainly difiused more of the knowledge and principles of the Christian religion among the North Ameri- can Indians than the Protestant missionaries have. These half civilised Indians retained some of the good, and of the evil qualities of their original stock. Though they generally professed the Roman Catholic religion, it was mixed with some of their I Hi 61 ancient superstitions, especially their belief in omens and charms. These men were often employed for a stated time by the company as trappers and canoemen, though on lower terms than were al- lowed to the white men, but generally in the end they became /ree trappen. Voyageurs. — ^As this class of functionaries was, and is indispensable in the prosecution of the fur trade ; and as they form one of those distinct and strong marked orders of people springing up in that vast continent out of geographical circum- stances, or the varied pursuits, habitudes, and origins of the population, the following sketch of a few of their leading characteristics, may be interesting and instructive. The voyageurs form a kind of firatemity in the Canadas, like thp arrieroa, or carriers, in Spain, and, like them, are employed in long internal expeditions of travel and trafiSc; but with this difference, that the arrieros travel by land, with mules and horses, the voyo' geura by water, with batteaux, or boats, and canoes. The voyageurs may be said to have sprung up out of the fur trade, having been originally em- ployed by the early French merchants in their trading expeditions through the labyrinth of rivers and lakes of the boundless interior. They rmmBmmamm:jmimm Hit I were coeval with the coureura des hois, or mngers of the woods, already noticed, and like them, in the interyals of their long and laborious expedi- tions were prone to pass their titne in idleness and revelry about the trading posts, or settlements — squandering their hard earnings in heedless con- viviality ; and rivalling their neighbours the Indians in indolent indulgence and an improvident disre- gard to to-morrow. Their dress is generally half civilised, half savage. They wear a capot, or out- side coat, made of a blanket — a striped cotton shirt —cloth trowsers, or leathern leggins — moccassins, or deerskin shoes, without a sole, and ornamented on the upper; and a belt of variegated worsted, from which are suspended a knife, tobacco-pouch, and other implements. Their language is of the same pebald character, being a French patois, embroidered with Indian and English words and phrases. Their lives are passed in wild and extensive rovings in tiie service of individuals, but more especially of the fiir traders. They are generally of French descent, and inherit much, of the gaiety and light- heartedness of their ancestors ; being full of anec- dote and song, and ever ready for the dance. They inherit, too, a fund of civility and complai- sance : and instead of that hardness and grossness •wimwnw 68 which men in laborious life are apt to indulge towards each otherj they are naturally obliging and accommodating — mterchanging kind offices,— yielding each other assistance and comfort in every emergency ; and using the familiar and affectionate appellations of ''cousin/* and "brother/' when there is, in fact, no relationship. Their natural good will is probably heightened by a community of adventure and hardship in their precarious and wandering life. No men are more submissive to their leaders and employers— more capable of en- during hardship, or more good humoured under privations. Never are they so happy as when on iOng and rough expeditions, toiling up rivers, or coasting lakes, on the borders of which they en- camp at night, gossip round their fires, and bivouac in the open air. They are dexterous boatmen, vigorous and adroit with the oar and paddle, and will row from morning till night without a mur- mur. The steersman often sings an old traditionary French song, with some regular chorus, in which they all join, keeping time with their oars: and if at any time they flag in spirits or relax in ex- ertion, it ia but necessary to strike up a song of the kind to put them all in fresh spirits and ac- 64 tlvity. The Canadian waters are vocal with these songs, that have been echoed from mouth to mouth, and transmitted from father to son, from the earliest days of the colony ; and it has a pleasing effect to see, in a stiU, golden summer evening, a bat* teaux gliding across the bosom of the lake, dip« ping its oars to the cadence of these quaint old ditties, or sweeping '^long in full chorus, on a bright sunny morning, down the transparent current of one of the Canadian rivers. When Canada passed under British domination, and the old French trading houses were broken up, the voyageurs, like the eoureurs dea bois, were for a long time disheartened aud disconsolate , and with difficulty could reconcile themselves to the service of the new comers, so different in manners, habits, and language, from their former employers. By degrees, hewever, they became accustomed to the change ; and at length came to consider the British fur traders, and especially the North-west Company, as the legitimate lords of creation, " An instance,'' says W. Irving, " of the buoyant temperament and professional pride of these people was furnished in the gay and braggart style in which a pai'ty of them arrived at New York to 65 join the enterprise.* They were determined to regale and astonish the people of the "States" with the sight of a Canadian boat and a Canadian crewt They accordingly fitted up a large, but light, bark canoo — soch aa is used in the fur trade — ^transplanted it in a waggon from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of Lake Cham> pluin — traversed the lake in it from end to end —hoisted it again in a waggon — wheeled it off to Lansingburg, and then launched it upon the wa- ters of the Hudson. Down this river they plied their course merrily on a fine summer's day, making its banks resound, for the first time, with their old French boat-songs — ^passing by the villages with whoop and halloo, so as to make the honest Dutch farmers mistake them for a crew of savages. In this way they swept in full song, and with regular flourish of the paddle, round New York, in a still summer evening, to the delight and admiration of its inhabitants, who had never witnessed on their waters a uautical apparition of the kind. " But we are talking of things that arc fast fading away. Mechanical invention is driving every thing * The trading expedition fitted out by Mr. Foster for the Columbia. 56 I poetical before it. The steam-boats, whicb are fast dispelling the solitude, wildness, and romance of our lakes and rivers, are proving as fatal to the race of Canadian voyageurs, as they have been to the boatmen on the Missisippi. They are no longer the lords of our internal seas, and the great naviga- tors of the ^demess. Their range is fast contrac- ting to those remote waters, and shallow and ob- structed rivers unvisited by the steam-boat. In the course of years they will gradually disappear — ^their songs will die away like the echoes they once awakened j and the Canadian voyageurs will become a forgotten race, or remembered, hke their associ- ates the Indians, among the poetical images of past times, and as a theme for local and romantic as- sociations.'' Without speculating as to the duration of their future existence, (and unless steam makes rapids strides, and produce wonderful changes, — " make the rough ways smooth, and the crooked straight," — deepen shallows — ^level waterfalls ; and smoothen rapids, in the streams, lakes, and rivers of British America, their extirpation in the north west is not likely soon to occur). I may observe, that however much the romance and poetry of their pursuit, and enterprise may decay, their physical comforts )/ 57 are likely to be greatly improved. The system un- der which they so successfully played the part of joyous adventurers, indefatigable fresh-water rovers, has been changed; and for the better. The whole of the vast continent stretching from the Pacific t: the Atlantic, and from Lake Superior and the Columbia to the Pole, save the strip of sea coast occupied by the Russians on the North Pacific, is under the jurisdiction of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. Throughout this immense region they have stations established at convenient distances; and within the limits of the territories attached to each station, the duties of the several bands of voyageurs are generally confined. They know their range of adventure, where they are to halt, and what is to be^ their final destination. They are well paid and weU fed, and need have no care for to-morrow. It is true they have less ardent spirits, but they have more substantial food. They have less in- centive for speculation, but they hsive more cer- tainty of pay. They have less freedom, but more security of person. The following sketch of the fare of the voya- geurs, and the other hard-working servants of the company, at present, though applied to a peculiar undertaking, will, however, in the main, hold good nil ■muLwii ■ uiiaitpuiiqvvnmiptiivpivi ,. 58 I' '' \\ i k about their treatment generally. I must premise that animal food is their only subsistence often in those remote regions; as they have neither bread nor vegetables: — '*On Christmas and New Year's days/' says Simpson, ''we entertained our assembled people with a dance, followed by a supper consisting of the best fare we could command. By this time we had, through our indefatigable exertions, accu- mulated two or three weeks' provisions in advance, and no scarcity was experienced during the re- mainder of the season. The daily rations served out to each mau was increased from eight to ten, and to some individuals twelve, pounds of venison, or, when they could be got, four or five white-fish, weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. This quantity of solid food, immoderate as it may ap- pear, does not exceed the average standard of the country ; and ought certainly to satisfy the inordi- nate appetite of a French Canadian; yet there was one of them who complained he had not enough, and did not scruple to help himself to an additional supply whenever the opportunity of- fered — it would have taken twenty pounds of animal food daily to satisfy him." The company's servants are not less well clothed / i )/ 59 and paid than they are fed. They are treated by their immediate masten with a familiar kindness, surpassing what I have ever seen elsewhere, even in the United States; and their whole condition affords the strongest possible contrast to the wretched situation of the Russian " promiischlenicks/' as des- cribed by Langsdaff. The nature of the climate and the long journeys demand, it is true, hard la- bour by titnea; but it is labour voluntarily en- dured, and less physically severe than the com- pulsory trackings on the rivers of Russia and China, while a great part of the year is spent in comparative idleness; and if the voyageur finds the fatigue and hardships too great, it rests with himself to be released from them at the close of his three years* contract. The canoes generally used by the fur traders of the north for navigating the intricate and often ob- structed rivers, are between thirty and forty feet long, and several feet in vddth, constructed of birch bark, sewed with fibres of the roots of the Spruce tree, and daubed with resin of the Fine, in place of tar. These, though capable of sustaining a freight of four tons each, cm readily be carried on men's shoulders. Canoes of this kind are generally man- aged by eight or ten men, two of whom are picked V S II I /i '1 I > it \ veterans, who received double wages, and are sta- tioned, one at the bow, the other at the stem, to keep a look out, and to steer : they are termed the foreman and the steersman. The rest, who ply the paddles, are called middle men. When there is a favourable breeze, the canoe is occasionally navi- gated with a sail. The lightness of such materials as the canoes were made of — bark — and the utmost vigilance, patience, and exertion, were necessary for the intricate and difficult navigation in which they were often employed. Sometimes the boat would be exposed to frequent danger from floating trees, and great masses of drift wood; or be impaled on sunken trees, presenting a jagged or pointed end above the surface of the water. Sometimes the boat should be drawn by the hand, and by grappling hooks, from one root or overhanging tree to another, or drawn by towing lines, when the shores were sufficiently clear to allow the men tu pass along the banks. Sometimes a part of the crew would have to leap into the water at the shallows, and wade along with the towing lines, while their comrades on board assisted them with oar and setting-pole. Sometimes the boat would seem to be retained motionless, as if spell-bound, opposite some point round which the current set 61 with violence, and with the utmost labour scarce effected any visible progress. When it is con- sidered that they penetrated into the interior to the distance of three or four thousand miles — ex- posed sometimes to a scorching sun, sometimes to the most piercing cold— cutting their way through drifting ice — suffering from physical privations, through unknown and barren regions — ^beset with dangers, without any certain prospect of reaching any place of security and comfort, some conception may be formed of the life of a north-west voyi^eur. A stranger seeing these light and slender vessels piled high with a load of goods of every kind packed in bales, each weighing ninety pounds ; with their various necessaries of clothings food, &c., also stowed away in bales ; and with hampers, boxes, &c. con- taining the articles of the officers ; and seeing them weighed down in the water to the gunwale's edge — ^he would think it an act of utter desperation to attempt to pass in them through boisterous, intri- cate, and obstructed waters. But so practised, hardy, and zealous are these voyageurs, that danger or accident but very rarely occurs. There are no birch canoes used in the Oregon country by the company's servants. They use only the batteaux, which are made of quarter-inch pine ggjgmm wrrTwmw^^f^^"^^* ''mmmmmmifmmfi'iii'^iKmmmfmim 62 i' ) h': boards, and are thirty-two feet long, and six and a half feet wide in midships, with both ends sharp, and without a keel — worked, according to the dr- comstances of the navigation, with paddles, or with oars. These boats are found to be better adapted to the lakes and rivers there, than the canoes of the north, When the voyageurs arrive at a portage, whether the vessels used be canoes or batteaux, every thing is unshipped; and each voyageur carries two bales, or ISOlbs. weight, on his back, held by a strap passing round his forehead, on which the force of the draught Ues: and with this weight they will run on briskly, sometimes for miles. » y ; , ,.|l!l||||J!pU|||iliijy!.l!U!|U. 63 CHAPTER VI. Description of Uie present settlement at Red Biver — ^hunting the BufiUo. m /■ When tlie North-west Oompany became merged in the Hudson's Bay Company, and the latter were left at full liberty to prosecute their plans of im- provement without rivalry or interruption, they restored the settlement at Bed Biver, and on a more extended scale. From the circumstances connected with its ori- ginal formation — from the singularity of its position and character, it being a sort of oima in the vast waste of a savage region — ^from its present and growing importance to the objects of the colony, a brief sketch of it may not be uninteresting. It is situated in the fiftieth degree of north latitude, and the ninety-seventh of west longitude, at an elevation of about 1000 feet above the level of the sea, and near the confluence of the Bed and As- sinaboine rivers, whose united waters run north- 1 1 64 I vard about thirty miles, into lake Winnipeg, which receives many other tributary streams. These two large rivers flow through a fertile country of vast extent, which possesses a salubrious climate. The Red Biver rises in the United States, near the sources of the Mississipi, and runs northward. The Assinaboine flows from the north-west. The cold season lasts about five months, from November tiU April. But the ice on lake Winnipeg does not break up till May. At the opening of the fine season, an immense quantity of sturgeon and other fish is caught. There are occasionally summer frosts, generated by undrained marshes, which im> pede the exertions of the husbandman; but this evil is gradually melting away before the march of cultivation. The range of the settlement stretches upwards of fifty miles along the romantic and woody banks of those rivers. Their borders are cultivated to the breadth of nearly a mile ; all the back country remaining in a great measure in its original state— a vast natural pasture, covered for the greater part of the year, with cattle, and fur- nishing the colonists with a sufficient quantity of hay for the support of their herds during the win- ter. Horses, horned cattle, hogs, and poultry, are exceedingly numerous. Sheep have been brought 66 at great expense by the Company, from England and the United States, and are reared with success. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, turnips, and most of the culinary vegetables, thrive well. Pumpkins, melons, and cucumbers arrive at maturity in the open air, in the favourable season. The cultivation of maize, peas, and beans promise success. H(^ grow luxuriantly. Flax and hemp, which have been introduced, show every appearance, in progress of time, of being made profitable crops. In fine, this extraordinary colony, in so high a latitude, is likely to be rendered productive in aU the neces> saries and comforts even, and many of the luxuries of civilised Europe. The most common sorts of wood ard oak, pop- lar, elm, and maple; pines are likewise found to- wards^ Lake Winnip€g< On this lake two-decked vessels ply, in summer, between the colony and the entrep6t of Norway House, which is situ- ated at its northern extremity, where the river navigation to Hudson's Bay commences, as the lake is emptied into that bay by the Nelson river. Firewood is rafted down the rivers, from above the limits of the colony, during the summer, or transported on sledges during the snow and frost. But to obviate all chtoce of a scarcity in 66 the supply of this article, the colonists are providing themselves with oast-iron stovesi which occasion a much less consumption of fuel. As the population is chiefly Catholic ; and as the colony is, at present, the most suitable centre from which to spread the blessings of religion and civilisation over that im- mense tract of country, a Roman Catholic bishop has been stationed there. The two principal churches — ^the Protestant and the Roman Catholic — the gaol, the company's chief buildings, the bishop's residence, and the houses of some retired officers of the fur trade — who choose this as their lasting home, in place of returning to their native country — are built of stone. The generality of settlers live in frame or log houses, roofed with wooden slabs, bark, or shingles ; and are for the most part white- washed or painted, externally. Every man, how- ever low his condition, possesses a horse j and they vie with each other in gay curricles, harness, sad- dles, and fine clothes. A great abundance of Eng- lish goods is imported, both by the company and by individuals, in the company's annual ships, to York Factory, at Hudson's Bay; and disposed of in the colony at moderate prices. Labour is dear, and produce of every kind sells at a higher price than could be expected in a place so remote and I mam 67 secluded. Domestic manufactures are beginning to make way, and, by diminishing the annual orders from England, to make the people more indepen- dent. They now manufacture coarse cloths, stuffs, shawls, linen, sacking, leather, &c.; and even for their grain and domestic cattle, they are beginning to find a market among the Americans of the level plains leading to the Missisippi and the St. Peter's; and it is probable that before long they will export hides, tallow, wool, hemp, and flax to England. The currency of the place consists in the com- pany's notes, with a smaller amount of silver and copper coin. There are fifteen wind, and three water mills, to grind the wheat and prepare the malt for the iiihabitants, who use neither barley nor oats in bread. Though the protestants consti- tute but two-fifths of the population; yet all these mills are in their hands, except two, which have been erected by a Roman catholic, in the com- pany's pay, as warden of the plains. It may be remarked that, while many of the children of the company's retired European servants, who are chiefiy Orkney men, by native women, inherit the plodding and careful disposition of their fathers, the half-bred descendants of the French Canadians are generally iiii IMi^Mllli 68 characterised by their fathers' levity and extrava- gance, and their mothers' violent passions. Many of the Scotch, who first planted the colony in 1813, under the auspices of the Earl of Selkirk, have amassed handsome sums of money, besides rear- ing large families in rustic plenty. Some, fearing the consequences of intermarrying with the half breeds, have migrated elsewhere. The company, besides extensive purchases of grain and provimons for their transport and other service, animaily expends large sums at Red River for works of public utility, such as experimental farming — ^the erection of churches, and other build- ings — endowing schools — affording medical «dd gratis to the poor — encouraging domestic manufactures — maintaining an armed police — dispensing justice ; and in contributing to tibe support of two Protes- tant clergymen — of a Roman catholic bishop ; and three priests firom Canada. Through the exertions of these zealo'is ministers a gr^t number of the Indians, of tie Cree and Salteaux or Chippeway nations, have been converted and located. From this heavy outlay the company has hitherto had no return; for the occasional sale of lands has not as yet defrayed the expenses of the survey (they being, in most instances, bestowed gratis. i i; ,1, 1 Miii IMMMHi 69 thoogli purchased from the Indians), and the im^ mediate ^neighbourhooi^ has been stripped of the fur-bearing ^animals. Yet, under the company's fostering care/X population of 5,000 persons has b^n reared up in plenty, comfort, and civilisation ; and the colony is every day growing in numbers, wealth, and importance. There are eIio excellent boarding schools, established by the Rev. Mr. Jones, where nearly 100 youth of both sexes, the children of the company's officers, and the more respectable settlers, are trained up in European accomplish^ ments, and in the strictest principles of religion. The Indian settlements, too, at the lower extremity of the colony, founded by the Rev. Mr. Cockran, are worthy of notice. He has provided schoolf masterFj for the native children, and built places of worship, where he regularly officiates. He has also constructed a windmill for the Indians — assistib them in erecting thcii' wooden houses; and in every way sets tb^.m tlie example of industry. At the other extremity of the colony, Mr. Balcour, one of the Roman catholic priests, conducts a location of Salteaux Indians on a smaller scale. The colony has also a seminary, f m which home missionaries — ^young Indians educated in the Church Missionary Society's school — are to be sent to instruct their 70 ooimtrymen in varioiu parts of the companf's almost unbounded territories. In the countries of the Co- lumbia and New Caledonia, to the westward of the great rocky mountain chain, these missionaTy labours will have a rich field. There the climate is softened by the influences of the Pacific : food is abundant ; the numerous natives do not lead the same solitary wandering and precarious lives as the north-eastern tribes^ but dwell together in viUages. They are en- dowed with a greater capacity and quickness of appre- hension; are more pliant and tractable in temper; appreciate more the talents, attainments, and so- cial arts of the white men; and are fonder of imitating and adopting their customs and princi- ples. Therefore they seem now more disposed to embrace the doctrines of Christianity, to many principles, of which their own belief approximates, from those on whom, a few years ago, they com- mitted the most barbarous murders. But in the dreary regions of the north, where the Indian hunters are scattered through interminable fo- rests ; and where civilisation can but slowly, if ever, penetrate, the prospects of their conversion are fainter and more remote. Yet even among these, since the coalition of the rival companies, and the dismissal of the numerous swarms of adventurers, who, eucou- 7^ raged by the licence of fierce opposition, OTerran and nearly ruined the country, morality, order, and integrity have been, in some degree, introduced through the agency of the company's officers. Re- ferring to the improved condition of the Indians, produced through the instrumentaliiy of the com- pany, Mr. Simpson observes, "no stronger proof of the salutary effect of their injunctions can be adduced than that, while peace and decorum mark the general conduct of the northern tribes, blood- shed, rapine, and unbridled lust, are the charac- teristics of the fierce hordes of Assinaboines, Piegans, Blackfeet, Circees, Fall and Blood Indians, who inhabit the plains between the Saskatchewan and the Missouri rivers, and which are without the pale of the company's influence and authority." Among the many advantages which the company is labouring to bestow on the whole race of In- dians, one of the most important is the cementing of fraternal and pacific feelings between them, and the reconciliation of their inveterate feuds. For' merly it^Vas the vile and pernicious practice of rival traders to foment the discords of the several tribes, with a view of reaping advantage from them; for they often succeeded, by weakening one after the other, in reducing both to entire submi&sivencss 7$ to their purposea ; and they could then dictate the terms of trading with them as they pleased : or if they could not use them in this way^ they used them as instruments to annoy their competitors, by crippling their trade, and raising up enemies against them. Thiis the natives, in the complex and ramified system of commercial competition for a long time carried on in the nortb-west, were com- mitted against the traders, and became involved in hostility with on^ another. This hostiUty ac- quiring strength and inveteracy with each sue? ceeding act of aggression and retaliation, outlived the original cause ; [and often lasted for generations after the first instigators quitted the scene, and ceased to feel the remotest interest in the progress and consequences of their own misdoing. Their maxim seemed to h^—^ " Mischief, thou art a-foot ; Take now whatever course thou wilt." I: But all the exertions of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany to check and extinguish these evils are, to some extent, thwarted by the conduct of the United States* traders, who labour to keep alive all the vices of the old Canadian system, and to introduce, with all their characteristic graspinguesG^ and per^ /• 78 severance, new ones. Th^ consider that every artifice is legitimate in trade; and in place of blushing at its infamy, they chuckle at its clever- ness. The company has endeavoured to reconcile the hostile tribes to each other, — to induce them to spare the young of the fur^bearing animals, so as to preserve the breed, and keep the trade alive for the benefit of both parties in perpetuity; and to discountenance the use of ardent spirits, which have been so baneful to the natives. But the Ameri<> cans, for the sake of ejecting an immediate and tempon^ry gain, pursue generally the very opposite course. At Bed Biver the buffaloes are now seldom taken in pounds. Here it may be observed, that to a stranger the wild buffalo bull, with his large bump, glaring eyes, fierce aspect, and long beard, that almost sweeps the ground, when encountered in the recesses of the forest, or in the open plain, where there is no chance of escape, is the most formidable animal in America — far more so than the panther, or grisly bear. In the summer and autumn large parties of the half-breed hunters, all mounted on their small Indian horses, which are well broken in to this sport, scatter themselves over the plains, camping generally in the open air, -- •»»•«.*--• ^'-■m f^e tii^ lt k r-" 7* I or in tents covered with hides ; or under their pro- vision carts. As soon as the buffaloes are perceived, the young men gallop after them, and either par- tially surprise them on the plains, or succeed in driving them into some little valley or neck of land, projecting into a lake, vrhere escape is difficult. A running fire then opens all along the line. At the first volley the buffaloes scamper off. The hunt- ers continue the pursuit, reloading their guns while their horses are in fuU gallop ; for the sake of ex- pedition the bullets are carried in the mouth, and dropped into the barrel without any wadding : their small whips are attached by a band to the right wrist. The horse, with wonderful sagacity, follows of his own accord the animal which his rider has singled out, and brings him alongside ; and the rider then discharges his weapon unerringly. The horse then pursues another with similar success. In this way many buffaloes in succession are shot by the same hunter ; and hundreds fall in a single race. No sight can be livelier than a camp uf successful hunters. They generally pitch in some clump or point of woods : the provision carts form the outer circte, to which the horses are tied ; within this fires blaze on every side. The men smok« their pipes, or arrange their fiiv-arms; n while the women are employed in cooking a sump- tuous repast. The jesi; nnd the laugh circulate ireely all around. During the time the men are employed in hunting, the females are occupied in drying the spare meat, or convertuig it into pemican. Pemican. — ^This far-famed provender for man in the wilds of northern America is formed by pound- ing the choice parts of the meat very small, dried over a slow fire, or in the frost, and put- ting it into bags made of the skin of the slain animal; into which a proportion of melted fat is then poured. The whole then being strongly com- pressed, and sewed up, constitutes the best and most portable food for the voyageurs, and one which, with proper care, will keep for a long time. Fifty pounds of pounded meat, and forty pounds of grease, make a bag of pemican. There is ano- ther kind, called the sweet pemican, of which berries constitute the chief ingredient. In the winter season this sport assumes a more vaiious character. "When the snow is not deep, the buffalo may be run on horseback as in summer : indeed, if the herd be numerous, they beat such a track with their broad hoofs, that they are easily pursued. At other times they are approached by 76 the hunter crawlvng on the snow. He walks up within a certain distance, far enough not to alarm the herd — ^then prostrates hiqiself on the snow— <• drags himself along on his belly, with his gun trailing after him j and in this way proceeds a long distance before he can get within reach when the buffaloes are shy, When fatigued with this labo- rious and unnatural motion, he stops for a time to recruit himself; he then throws up a little heap of snow before him to screen him from his prey. Some of the hunters are said to be so dexterous in this mode of approach, as actually to drive aside the old bulls who form the outer guard of the herd, iu order to select the choicest of the cows. In order to effect this object, he wears the disguise of a close dun-coloured cap, furnished with upright ears, to give him the appearance of a wolf : for from constant association, that animal is regarded by the buffalo without dread. In the spring of the year, when there is a hard crust on the snow, produced by alternate thaw and frost, the buffaloes are frequently run down by the hunt- ers, and stabbed with their daggers, while floundering in the deep drifts, which yield to their weight, but support their pursuers, who are borne up by their s)^ow shoes. In this way, which is the easiest and 17 safest of all, the animals fall a prej evei Jo the boys and women* It is well worth while to insert here the follow- ing sketch of the northern Indians, from Mr. Simp- son: — ''No people so soon g6t tired of any psiticular diet as Indians : and their longings for change, even amidst the best cheer, are often truly ridicu- lous. The flexibility of their stomachs is no less surprising. At one time they will gorge themselves with food, and are then prepared to go without any for several days, if necessary. Enter their tents ; sit there, if you can, for a whole day, and not for an instant will you find the fire unoccupied by persons of all ages cooking. When not hunt- ing or travelling, they are, in fact, always eating. Now, it is a little roast, a partridge or rabbit per- haps ; now, a tit-bit broiled under the ashes ; anon, a portly kettle, well filled with venison, swings over the fire ; then comes a choice dish of curdled blood, followed by the sinews and marrow«bones of deer^s legs singed on the embers. And so the grand business of life goes unceasingly round, interrupted only by sleep. Another physical singularity of the northern tribes is, that though capable of resisting with great fortitude the most intense cold, they 78 are wonderfully fond of fire. At an establisliment, even when the weather is mild and pleasant out of doors, they are to be seen heaping on fuel in the house, and actually sitting cross-legged on the hearth, where a white man would speedily be roasted. I have, however, remarked that the in- variable effect of the North American climate is to render even Europeans more chilly than on their first arrival ; from which we must infer that there is something debilitating in the climate or mode of liie. It is a general rule among the traders, not to believe the first story of an Indian. He will tell you on arriving that there are no deer, and after- wards acknowledge them to be numerous ; that he has been starving, when he .has been living in abundance ; that certain individuals are dead, yet after he has smoked his pipe, and eaten his fill* ask him what is the matter with these same per- sons, and he will describe some trifling ailments, a surfeit, perhaps ; for though at times these people endure with great fortitude, the least sickness makes them say, ' I am going to die !' — a trait that also extends to their half-breed descendants." Much has been written about the origin of the population of North America. The general opinion seems to incline to the theory, that they came MM (Mii 79 from Asia. It does not come within tlie scope of my present purpose to enter on this enquiry, even were I competent to the task; but I may state what has been the most probable result of philo- sophical enquiry, and already mentioned by others. The tribes who possess the vast region to the northward of a line drawn from Churchhill on Hud- son's Bay, across the Rocky Mountains to New Caledonia and the Pacific, comprehending the Chi- pewyans ; the Copper Indians ; the Beaver Indians, of Peace River ; the Dog-ribs, and Hare Indians, of M'Kenzie River, and Great Bear Lake ; the Thsecanies, Nahanies, and Dahadinnehs, of the mountains; and the Carriers, of New Caledonia, all speak different dialects of the same original tongue. Next to these succeed the Crees, speaking another distinct language, and occupying another great section of the continent, extending from Les- ser Slave Lake through the woody country on the north side of the Saskatchewan River, by Lake "Winnipeg to York Factory, and from thence round the shores of Hudson and James Bays. South of the fiftieth parallel, the circles of affinity contract, but can still be easily traced. The Carriers of New Caledonia, like the people of Hindostan, used, till lately, to burn their dead — a ceremony in which IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 Hi 12.5 ■ 2.2 ^ lis 1 2jO -^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WUSTM.N.Y. '"!^I0 (716)873-4503 Hi PP|IS^I?!55^jPPPpi™i_^-ilM!|i«HiK^(l?ipjllliW^^ 80 the widow of the deceased, though not sacrificed as in the latter country, was obliged to continue beating on the breast of the corpse, while it slowly consumed on the fttneral pile ; in which cruel duty she waa often sevetely scorched. Instead of being burned, she was obliged to serve, as a slave, the relatives of her deceased husband for a series of years, during which she wore around her neck a smaU bag, containing part of the bones or ashes of her former husband. At the end of the allotted term, a feast was made, and she was declared at liberty to cast off the symbols of hw widowhood, and wed again. These customs have been abolished by the Hudson's Bay Company. i^' miH ■HMMi 81 CHAPTEB VII. Remarks on the Company's present principles of dealing; and ihe mode of trafBc unoi^ many of the Northern tribes. Thi principle niuTenaUy acted on thiougliout the company's temtories, which have been now reduced, considering their vast extent, f>nd the many diffi- culties to be encountered, to a state of astonishing quiet, peace, and good government, is, that the true intOTests of the native Indian and the white resident are indissolubly imited ; and that no im- mediate advantage, or prospect of it, is to stand in the way of improving the condition of the natives. The following extract from the standing orders of the company, will convey an idea — though a faint one—of the wise, humane, and liberal spirit by which it is actuated. " That the Indians be treated with kindness and indnlgoioe; and mild and conciliatory means re- sorted to, in order to encourage industry, repress S2 h^ vice, and inculcate morality — ^that the use of spirit- uous liquors be gradually discontinued in the few districts in which it is yet indispensable; and that the Indians be liberally supplied with requisite necessaries — particularly with articles of ammunition, whether they have the means of paying for them, or not," Since these general orders were issued, the com- pany, finding the success of this humane and judi- cious policy gradually answering the proposed aim, has at last adopted the bold and decisive course of abolishing altogether the use of spirituous liqttors as articles of trade with the natives. They have not only done this in the territories within their own jurisdiction ; but have, by a new article intro- duced into the treaty of commerce, entered into with the Russians by Sir George Simpson, stipu- lated that the Russians should act, in their trading with the natives, on the same principle. So that henceforward one source of demoralisation will be dried up. It is not only the inclination of the company to render the natives comfortable, and pacific, and civil- ised; but it is their manifest interest. The natives are best able to exert themselves in collecting fura and provisions, when they are best clothed, and 83 supplied with ammunition ; and they are best quali- fied to tixert their individual and united powers for the prosecution of their trade, on which their own immediate and ultimate good depends, when they are brought to a state of peace with each othei*, and tbeir savage passions and appetites cl ecked. So far has it been the wish or policy of the company not to acquire an undue influence ever them by loading them with debts, that re- peated attempts have been made to reduce the trade to simple barter; and they have often can- celled the debts of whole tribes — for instance, since the junction of the two companies in 1821, the debts of the Chipewyans have been twice cancelled. But firom the peculiar disposition and customs of the Indians — especially the northern Indians — these good intentions have not yet produced all the hoped- for good, although they are gradually working out their object. The Chipewyans have a custom which, until eradicated, must operate as a check on their pro- gressive prosperity. On the death of a relative, they destroy guns, ammunition, blankets, kettles; in short, every thing they possess ; and conclude the havoc by tearing their huts to pieces. When these transports of grief have subsided, they find 84 !H themselves reduced to utter want, and are obliged to resort to the nearest establishments for a fresh supply of necessaries; and thus their debts are renewed, and their wants periodically kept alive. In some parts of the Indian tecritoiy, the hunting grounds descend by inheritance among the natives ; and this right of property is rigidly enforced. But where no such salutary law prevails, their main source of wealth — ^the beaver — ^woiJd soon be ex- hausted by the eager search of the hunters, if the company had not adopted judicious regulations to prevent the havoc ; for they have, for several years past, used every effort, through their officers, to ex- hort the natives to spare the young of that animal. This praiseworthy design has been successful in proportion as the natives have become enlightened, and enabled to see their own true interests; and the breed is now preserved in districts where, not long since, they were threatened with extinction. But the attempt will be easily understood to be one of extreme difficulty, in consequence of the passion for depriving the animal creation of life so strongly implanted in the breast of the North American Indian, that it costs him a pang to pass bird, beast, or fish, without an effort to destroy it, whether he stands in need of it or not. The 85 tendencT^ to destructiveness is a vehement instinct of their nature. Near York Factory, iu T881, this propensity, contrary to all the remonstrances vt che co:i-^>any'8 servants at that place, led to the indiscriminate destraction of a countless herd of rein-deer, while crossing the broad stream of Haye's River, in the height of summer. The natives took some of the meat for present use, but thousands of carcasses were abandoned to the current, and infected the river's banks, or drifted down into Hudson's Bay, there to feed the sea fowls and polar bears. As if it were a judgment for this wanton slaughter, in which women and children participated, the deer have never since visited that part of the country in similar numbers. In short, the Indians, accustomed either to a feast or a fast, have little idea beyond the present gratification; and it is to this impru- dence that deaths by starvation, and the occasional desertion of infants, and the helpless aged, must be ascribed. The quantity of provisions furnished by the In- dians to the establishments throughout the northern districts, is inconsiderable. In the winter season, it is limited to the rib pieces of the moose, red, and rein-deer, half dried in the smoke of their huts 86 or tents, (the bones being removed for lightness of ctrriage), with an occasional addition of some tongues. In the course of the summer, when the animals are easily hunted, and there is great facility of water-transport, the more industrious families usually bring to the fort a bale of dried meat, con- sisting of the fleshy parts of the deer, cut into large slices and dried in the sun, with a bladder or two containing fat, or a bag of pemican. When the residents of a fort find those supplies, and the produce of their fisheries, and of their cul- tivated plots of ground (where the ground, from the nature of the soil and climate, is capable of cultivation), insufficient to supply their wants, they engage two or more young Indians, without fami- lies, as "fort hunters/' These are considered as regular servants ; and their duty is confined to the killing of large animals for the use of the establish- ments. They are allowed to keep a portion of the meat, sufficient for their own consumption : . the remainder is transported to the forts, with sledges and dogs, by the servants of the company. To become a fort hunter is an object of ambitio^ to the northern Indian; as it is an acknowledg- ment of his skill and fidelity, and ensures to him the gayest clothing. Every prudent manager of a 87 post endeavours to procure more provisions than the actual wants of his charge require. He is thus enabled, from his supplies, to a£Ebrd the natives timely relief, and to conciliate their goodwill, and point out to them the expediency of forethought and economy. These remarks do not apply to the comparatively mild climate of the Saskatchewan, where the plains teem with buffaloes; nor to the still more southerly districts, bordering en Canada, where the natives and the people are in a great mea- sure fed on provisions imported by the company. i~ji'~iTr- 88 CHAPTEB VIII. The Knisteneaux Indians. Thisb people, firom whom are sprang many tribes, under diiferent names, axe spread over a vast extent of conntiy. Their language is the same as that of the people who inhabit the coast of British America on the Atlantic, and continues along the coast of Labrador, and the gulph and banks of the St. Lawrence to Montreal. The line then follows the Utawns River to its source, and continues thence nearly west along the high lands that divide the waters that flow into Lake Superior on the one hand, and Hudson's Bay on the other. It then ^ proceeds till it strikes the middle part of Lake Winnipeg, and right through it, to the discharge of the Saskatchewan into it. From thence it ac- companies the latter to Fort G«oi^e, when the line, striking^ by the head of the Beaver Biver to the Elk Biver, runs along its banks to its dis- charge into the Lake of the Hills, from which it may be carried back, east, to Isle a la Crosse, and so on to CburchhiU hj the Missinippi. The whole of the tract between this line and Hudson's Bay and Straits (except that of the Es- quimaux in the latter) may be said to be exdu- siyely the country of the Knisteneaux. Some of them, indeed, haye penetrated fturther, west and south, to the Bed Biyer, and the south branch of the Saskatchewan. The similarity between their language and that of the Algonguins is dear proof that they are of tiie same stock. They are of moderate stature, well proportioned, and yery actiye. Examples of d^ormity are sel- dom to be seen among them. Their complexion is copper colour, and their hair black, which is common to all the natiyes of America: it is gene- . rally cut in yarious forms, according to the fancy of the seyeral tribes ; but by some it is left in the long, lank flow of nature. They mostly extract their beard ; and both sexes manifest a disposition to pluck the hair from eyery part of the body and limbs. Their eyes are black and pierdng: their countenances open and agreeable; and it is a principal object of their ambition to ^ye eyery possible decoration to their persons. For this pur- pose yermilion is a material article, which they IN I i\ ''riTTfT — "j-^rrfr^'"^"^'^^^'— i«fi »»-"ii t i . 1,111 .mwivifv^apimniiKnpi wn»p^ 00 I • contrast with their native white, blue, and brown earths, with a frequent addition of charcoal. "Of all the natives/' says M'Kenzie, "which I have seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux women are the most comely; their figure is well propor- tioned, and the regnlarily of their features would be acknowledged by the most civilised Europeans. Their complexion, too, is less dark than that of the less cleanly natives." The dress of the males is simple and commodi- ous. It consists of gloves, shoes, and tight leg- gins, reaching nearly to the hip— a strip of cloth or leather, called assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drawn inwards, and hang behind and before, over a belt, which fastens it round the waist, — a close vest or shirt, reaching down to the former garment, ud cinctured with a broad strip of parchment, fastened with thongs behind; and a cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or small skin, with the hairy tail suspended as an ornament : over the whole a kind of robe is occasionally thrown. The materials vary according to the season; and consist of dressed moose skin, — beaver, prepared with the fur on, or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, and fancifully worked, in some parts, with porcu- 01 pines' quiUa and moose-deer hair; the shirt and leggins are also adorned with firinge and tassels; the shoes and gloves are also decorated with taste and skill. Their dress is, however, put on accord- ing to fancy or convenience ; and they will some- times proceed to the chase covered only with the slightest of them. Their head-dresses are com- posed of the leathers of the swan, the eagle, and other birds. They also use the teeth, claws, and horns of different animals, wherewith to ornament the head and jieck. Their hair, however worn, in always uesmeared with grease. All the articles of dress are made by the females, who bestow peculiar pains on the decoration of the men, whose faces are also painted with more care than those of the women. The female dress is composed of the same ma- terials as that of the men; but of a different arrangement and make. Their shoes are com- monly plain, and their leggins gartered below the knee. The vest falls down to the middle of the leg, and is fastened round the shoulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches before and behind, and neatly ornamented with qiiill-work and fringe; the bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted as high as the knee. I n i'''S^*3JT?i?*?4(»w.l!«»f!!^PHWWl»t As it is veiy loojse, it is fastened round the waist with a stiff belt, decorated with tassels, and tied behind. The arms are covered to the wrist with detached sleeves, which are sewed as £ur as the bend of the arm ; from thence they are drawn up to the back, and the comers of them fall down behind as far as the waist. The cap, when they wear one, consists of leather or cloth, sewed at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the back, is fastened to the waist belt, and is also tied under the chin. They also have an upper robe like that of the men. Their hair is divided on the crown, and tied be- hind, or fastened in large knots under the ears. They are fond of European articles; and, like other savages, wear bracelets, rings, and other baubles. Sometimes they tattoo three perpendicu- lar lines— -one from the centre of the chin to the centre of the under lip, and one parallel on each side to the comer of the mouth. Chastily is not considered a virtue among them. FluraKly of wives is allowed, and so is an inter- change of wives; but if a wife commit an indis-^ cretion wiUiout the consent of the husband, she is liable to severe punishment, such as the loss of her hair, nose, or ornaments, When a young man marries 93 i he resides vith his wife's parents, who, however, treat him as a stranger, till the birth of his first child ; he then attaches himself to them more than to his own parents, and the wife always calls him by the title of father of her child. When a man loses his wife, it is considered his duty to marry her sister : or he may have several sisters together. They are, generally, hospitable, generous, and mild, except when inflamed by spirituous liquors; and are indulgent and attentive to their children. The occupation of the men is war and hunting only. The women make the nets ; dress the skins ; collect the wood ; erect the tents ; and perform all the domestic work; and attend to the children. Hence their life is one of great toil; and, firom a consciousness of this, they sometimes destroy their female children, and procure abortionSf which they effect by means of certain simples, and with- out risk of life to themselves. Their funeral rites begin, like all their other cere- monials, with smoking, and end with a feast. The body is dressed in the best habiliments of the de- ceased, or of his relations; and is deposited in a grave, lined with branches ; some domestic utensils are placed in it, and a canopy erected over it. During this ceremony great lamentations are made; I: 1 ii TCpnipiRippppipppippniHRiniRipvippnip IIPWPW^^WWW 'jWMfmwiw 94 and, if the deceased be mnch respected, his relations cut off their hair, and pierce the fleshy parts of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, &c. ; and bla.'^^.en their faces with charcoal. In some instances the women used to sacrifice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of the property of the deceased is destroyed; and when the relations give up their garments they are willing to take any rags to cover their naked- ness. This imprudent custom tends to keep them in poverty, and compels them often to resort to the bounty of the Hudson's Bay Company. At the funeral feast eulogies are pronounced on the deceased; and on his tomb are carved the sym- bols of his tribe, which are taken from the dif* ferent animals of the country ; and also, if he had in any way distinguished himself, memorials of his own deeds. Before they engage in war the chief summons the warriors to a council, for which they pre- pare themselves by long meditations and fasting. When they have assembled, the chief formally explains the 'subject; and, if they agree to take up arms, they smoke with him the sacred pipe; and this is considered a sufficient enrolment. Every one who attends the meeting brings with "WPPI 95 him something as an offering to the Spirit; and when the assembly dissolves, these offerings are suspended from poles near the place of council. They have, at stated seasons, such as the spring and autumn, long and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions, dogs, as the most useful of their domestic animals, are sacrificed; those that are very &t and milk white are preferred. The scene of these religious rites is an open and elevated space on the banks of some lake or river, so that all persons passing by may be attracted to the spot and make their offerings. But if any one, a member of the tribe or a stranger, should be in want of any article displayed as an offering, he may take it, provided he replaced it with some other article, though of ever such inferior value. But to take any thing wantonly is gross sacrilege. There are also private feasts, attended with re- ligious ceremonies, given by individuals on many occasions, of which due announcement is given. On this occasion the host's lodge is completely cleared out, and decked round with fresh boughs in every part. Even a new hearth is made. The owner remaining in it alone, spreads out a well- dressed moose>skin, neatly painted, (of late they sometimes use cloth,) on which he lays out the con- i 'T'»ff''?^?»Wr'T'WWP^"!CTf»j!ppi!5IP!fPlf^^ 90 c tents of his medicine, or holy bag — consisting of various articles ; the principal of which is a sort of household god — a curiously carved image, about eight inches long. This is first covered with down, over which a piece of beech-bark is closely tied, and the whole enveloped in folds of skins, or doth, red and blue. This figure is an object of the most pious regard. The next article is the war-cap, which is decorated with the plumes of scarce birds, and with beavers' and eagles' daws, &c., and to which is suspended a quill or feather for every enemy which the owner has slain, Then follow other artides — ^the pipe and tobacco; and roots and simples esteemed for their medicinal properties. These artides being exposed, and the stem of the pipe resdng on two prongs, as it must not touch the ground, he calls in the person whom he means most to honour — ^and who sits down opposite him. Then the bowl of the pipe is filled, and is fixed to the stem, A pair of wooden pincers is provided, to place the fire in the pipe ; and a double-pointed pin to empty it of the remnant of the tobacco not used. The remainder of the guests are then summoned in ; and the most solemn awe pervades the whole. The women are generally aUowed to be spectators at a distance. The assistant lights the pipe, and 97 presents it to the host, or officiating person, who holds it between both his hands, and standing. He then turns to the east, and draws a few whiffs, which he blows to that point : he observes the same ceremony towards the other quarters; his eyes being directed upwards all the time. He then holds the stem about the middle, between the three first fin- gers of both hands, and raising it on a level with his forehead, he swings it three times round beginning from the east, with the course of the sun; when, after poising and pointing it in various directions, he replaces it on the prongs. He next makes a speech to explain his object in inviting them, and concludes with an acknowledgment of past favours, and a prayer for a continuance of them from the Master of Life. He then sits down ; and the whole com- pany declare their approbation and thanks by loud and prolonged sighs. After this the assistant takes up the pipe, and holds it to the mouth of the host, who, after smoking three whiffs, utters a short prayer, then hands it round (taking his course from east to west) to each guest, who smokes, and mutters someth^u^ to him on the occasion. Thus the pipe is generally smoked out ; when the host, after turn- ing it three or four times round his head, drops it downwards, and replaces it on the original prods. MhH I ili'^KHfii «8 After this he retoms the company thanks for their attendance, and wishes them all happiness. These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance; and sometimes they are politic. If a chief wishes to sound the disposition of his people towards himi or wishes to reocmcile any ^iflferences between them, he invites them to sre his medicine (or holy) bag opened, and smoke the sacred stem with him. As the ceremony of smoking with the sacred stem dissipates all differences and can not be violated, no one who entertains a grudge towards any of the party can smoke the pipe with him. No one can avoid attending on these oc- casions; but a person may be excused from as- sisting at the ceremonies by declaring that he has not undergone the necessary purification : for in- stance, cohabitation with his wife within twenty- four hours before the ceremony, renders a man unclean, and unfit to join in any part of the rite. All contracts solemnised by this smoking ceremony are held inviolable. When the chief proposes a feast, he sends quills, or small pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation. Every guest brings a dish and knife, and takes his place beside the chief, according to age or rank. The pipe is then lighted, and the chief ijp!Pi|iijpppiyi!yji|iji,,4ijRii!ii|Hl|ii ""DPPPiPPR" 99 makes an eqnal dinsion of the viands. While the gaests are eating» the chief sings, and plays with the tambourin, or the rattle. He who has first eaten his portion is held in estimation. If any one cannot finish his share, he offers a reward — suoh as ammunition or tobacco, to some friend to eat the remainder. But before they commence these feasts they o£Fer a small quantity of the meat and drink, as a sacrifice, by throwing it into the fire, or pouring it on the earth. Generally the qi^antity supplied to the guests, must be eaten, however immense; but on some occasions they are allowed to take the surplus to be eaten at home. Care is always taken that the bones be biumed, as it would be profanation if the dogs touched them. At their public feasts they discuss various topics -^repeat the heroic deeds of their fathers, and en- courage the rising generation to follow their ex- ample; while the women sing and dance around the tents, beating time to the music within. They commence their divisions of time by the night; and compute the length of their journeys by the number of nights passed in performing them. They also divide the year by the succession of moons. ^mfwim^w wmiiV'm'UH.i' 100 They know the medical yirtues of many herbi, roots of plants, and barks of trees. When a blister rises on the foot, from frost, or the chafing of the shoe, &c., they open it with their flint lancet, and apply the heated blade of a knife to that part; and as the best remedy for sprains, they apply the . dung of an animal inst killed. However, much of their remedies and surgical operations is supposed to derive effect from magic and incantations. fftii>.mi«iv I 101 CHAPTER IX. The Chipewyan Indians. Thesb are a numerous people, who consider the country between the parallels of latitude 60 and 65 north, and longitude 100 and 110 west, as their home. Their language furnishes dialects to the var- rious migratory tribes who inhabit the following immense tract of country. It begins at Churchhill, and runs along the line of separation between them and the Knisteneaux, up the Missinippi to Isle a la Crosse, passing on through Buffalo Lake, River Lake, and Portage a la Loche: from thence it proceeds by the Elk River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes directly west to the Peace River, and up that river to its source ; from whence it proceeds to the waters of the Columbia, and follows that river to latitude 52 north, and longitude 122 west, where the Chipewyans have the Chin nation for their neighbours. How far they follow the Rocky Mountains to the east, is not easy to determine; but they extend a long way through the prairies. '••^•^i^H^mmm^ HP 102 They are generally a timorom, reserved, and sober race, not addicted to spirituous liquors. They will patiently submit to severe treatment, if con* scions that they deserve it; but wiU not submit to unnecessary rigoiur . In their mutual quarrels th^ are not sanguinary or savage ; generally contenting themselves with thumping, pulling the hair, and calling abusive names. Their notions about the Creation are very remark* able. They believe that, at first, the globe was one vast ocean, not inhabited by any living creature; but that the Great Spirit came down in the i^ape of a mighty bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the clapping of whose wings was thunder. He rested on the ocean, and immediately the land rose, and remained on the surface of the water. This omnipotent bird then produced all the variety of animals firom the earth, except the Chipewyans, who were produced £rom a I dog : and this circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that animal, as well as to the people who eat it. The Great Spirit having finished his work, he made an. arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and remain untouched ; but the Chipewyans were so devoid of understanding, as to carry it away. This sacrilege so enraged the great 108 bird, that he has never since appeared. They be- lieve that there was a great deluge, which spread over the whole earth, except the highest mountains ; on the top of whidi their ancestors preserved them- selves. They have also a tradition among them, that they originally came from a remote country, inhabited by wicked people; and had traversed a great lake, which was narrow and full of islands ; also, that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn out with walking, and their throats with eating. The reader cannot fail to notice the curious coin>. cidenoe between this notion of the creation and the Mosaic account : " the earth was without form, and void, and the Spirit of God moved on the surface of the waters." Here i may remark, that the word which in our translation is rendered movedf the commentators say means, in the original He- brew, brooded, or hatched ; and Milton, who in his scriptural allusions and quotations follows the ori- ginal, takes the word in this sense. — Paradise Lost, b. vii. v, 235. Speaking of Creation, he says : — ' On the watery calm His brooding wings the Spirit of God outspread, And vital virtue infused, and vital warmth, Throughout the fluid mass. I luiiiiwpr^fW" 104 : Their ideas about the arrow would seem to indicate that they have a confused and corrupted notion of the tree of knowledge and the forbidden fruit — ^the arrow being more adapted to their condition than an apple. Their tradition about coming originally from a remote country, inhabited by wicked people, would remind one of the dispersion of mankind after the erection of the tower of Babel : and their ancestors having lived so long, until their feet were worn out with walking, and their throats with eat- ing, is a graphic mode of describing the longevity and sensuality of the antedeluvians. They believe in the immortality of the soul, and in a state of future rewards and punishments. They believe that immediately after death they pass into another world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a stone canoe ; and that a gentle current bears them on to an extensive lake, in the centre of which is a most beautiful island ; and that within sight of this delightful abode they receive that judgment for their conduct 'during life, which terminates their final state and unalterable allotment. If tl r good actions are declared to predominate, the^ are landed on the island, where there is to be no ei i to their happiness ; which, how- ever, according t^ their notions consists chiefly in 105 sensual pleMturei. But if their bad actions predomi- nate, the stone canoe sinks at once, and leaves them up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the reward enjoyed by the good; and eternally struggling, but with unavailing endeavourSi to reach the blissftd island. Their stature is of a moderate standard. Their complexion is swarthy : their features are coarse, and their hair lank ; and their eyes are not so gene- rally piercing, nor their countenances so animated as those of other Indians. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the men ; but their gale is awkward, which proceeds from their being accustomed, nine months in the year, to travel with their large snow shoes, and drag sledges, of a weight from 200 to 4001bs. They are very submissive to their husbands, who sometimes, how- ever, in fits of jealousy cut off their hair, of which they are very proud, wearing it in fantastic tresses, or in plaits, to a great length ; and treat them with fatal severity besides. Sometimes their natural in- clinations are coerced by their fathers, as is the case in more civilised life; and they are transferred for a consideration, to l:''/e as companions with more wealthy husbands or protectors. The men in gene- ral extract their beard ; and cut the hair in various 106 forms, according to fancy, or leave it in the long natural flow. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to four straight lines, on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the tribe to which thej belong. These marks are either tattooed, or made by drawing a thread, dipped in the necessary colours, across the skin. Plurality of wives is allowed ; and the women are betrothed by their parents at an early age, ac- cording as interest or partiality leads them : and if a separkilon takes place, it must be with the consent of the husband. In common with the other Indiaus of this country, they have a custom which is tinged with religion, respecting the periodical illness of woman, which is rigorously observed. During that time she must, as much as possible, seclude her- self from society; or touch ary utensils of male use or occupation; as such contact would produce defilement, and lead to misfortune. There are par- ' ticular skins of animals, as the bear and wolf, which the women never touch, as they are unclean ani- mals ; and these animals the men are seldom known to kill. There are no people more attentive to the com- forts of dress. The dress of the men, in winter, is composed of deerskins, and dressed as fine as 107 chamois leather, in the hair. Their shoes and leg- gins are sewed together ; the latter reaching upwards to the waisti and kept firmly on by a belt ; under which a piece of leather is drawn, the ends of which fall down before and behind, as a covering. In the shoes, they put the hair of the moose or rein-deer, with additional pieces of leather, as socks. The shirt or coat, which is girded round the waist, reaches to the middle of the thigh; and the mit- tens or gloves are sewed to the sleeves, or suspended from the shoulders by strings. A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck; and the skin of the head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. Then there is a top garment made of several deer or fawn skins sewed together. This dress is worn single or double, according to circumstances ; but always in winter with hair both inside and outside. Thus arrayed, a Chipewyan will lay himself down on the ice in the middle of a lake, and repose in comfort ; though in the morning he will sometimes find it difficult to uisencumber himself from the snow drifted on him during the night. If, in his passage over the lake, he should be in want of provision, he cuts a hole in the ice, when he seldom fails in taking out a trout or a pike. The eyes he instantly takes out, and eats as a great delicacy : and if he 5, 108 have not an opportunity of kindling a fire, he will eat the fish raw. The dress of the women is different. Their leg- gins are tied below the knee ; and their body dress or shift is wide, and hanging down to the uncle; and is tucked up at pleasure, by means of a belt which is fastened round the waist. Those who have children, have these garments made very full about the breast and shoulders; as, when they are tra- velling, they carry their infants on their backs, next the skin; in which situation they are very comfort- able, and in a convenient position to be suckled. They continue to suckle one child till they have another. At child-birth, no part of the usual oc- cupation is suspended; and their continued and regular exercise must contribute to the welfare of the mother, both in the progress of gestation, and at the moment of delivery. The women have a sin- gular custom of cutting off a part of the navel of the new-bom children, which they hang about their necks, perhaps to show that their " reproach among women" — barrenness — ^is taken away. They are also very curious about their baby-clothes, decorating them with porcupines' quills, and beads. Though they are in such a state of sabmission, yet they possess considerable influence with the men ; and 109 are generally cousulted about tlie traffic with Eu- ropeanSj and other important matters. From the ease with which they can supply their . wants, in taking deer and fish, they are not remark- able for their activity as hunters : hence they par- ticipate in those laborious and domestic occupations that, among the Knisteneaux, and other neighbour- ing nations, are confined to the women. Though they make war on the Esquimaux, (who cannot re- sist their superior numbers,) and put them to death — as it is a principle of theirs not to make prisoners- yet they submit to the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous as themselves. They are not so reserved in their communications among themselves, or with strangers ; nor are they suddenly roused from torpor to such energy and passion as the Knisteneaux. They are more uniform, calculating, and persevering than these people. They catch the beaver in nets, as he endeavours to escape from his lodge, when it is broken open. These nets are curiously set for the purpose; and a man is employed to watch the moment when the animal enters the snare, else he would soon cut his way through it : he is then thrown on the ice, where he remains, as if lifeless. Their snow-shoes are of superior workmanship : ■'] 110 The inner part of their frame is straight ; the outer one is curved, and is pointed at both ends, the front end being turned up. They are also very neatly laced with deer-skin thongs. Their sledges are also formed of thin slips of boards turned up in front ; and are highly polished, with crooked knives, in or- der to moke them slide along with greater facility. Close-grained wood is, on that account, the best : but theirs are made of the red, or swamp, spruce fir tree. Though they have no regular govemmeut, as every man is lord of his own family, yet they have certain principles of co-operation for the public benefit. Their country, especially along the north, is very barren, yielding but little wood or herbage. Its chief vegetable substance is the moss, on which the deer feed ; and a kind of rock moss, which, in times of scarcity, when boiled in water, forms a glutinous substance, and affords subsistence to the natives. But though the lakes abound with fish^ and the hills with deer ; and though they are con- sidered among the most provident of all the Indian people of the northern continent, they suffer severely at certain seasons, especially in winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty, stunted, woods. •""mmmmm mmmmm^^^ laiiiiuiui. iummmwmmmimtmni' ^PMUMpmn 111 To the westward of them, the musk ox may be found ; but they do not depend on it as an article of sustenance. There are also large hares, white wolves peculiar to their country, and several kinds of foxes. On the surface of the earth there are found beautiful pieces of variegated marble, which is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and hardens with time. It endures heat, and is manufactured into pipes or calumets, as they are fond of smoking tobacco— a luxury communicated to them by Euro- peans. They have no knowledge of simples, or the medi- cinal virtues of plants; as their country is too barren to produce any : but they generally resort to charms to cure their diseases ; of which rheumatism, the flux, and lues veneria, are the principal. They are very superstitious ; and have their priests and conjurers ; but they are unwilling to make many communica- tions on the subject of their religion. They show their respect for the memory of their departed friends by a long period of mourning ; by cutting off their own hair ; and never making use of the property of the deceased : they even sacrifice their own on the occasion. H i: i- ! II lit "T'^r^..' * n.' ;■ ' U.piW'i^lPU'U I • - '■'J«ilVtPiWi>ii.9«n^P«WfqiVi^l||pH 1'; 112 CHAPTER X. mu 1 1 *!• Mouth of the Columhia. — ^Description of the native tribes. — Their appearance.-^Habits. The first object that meets the eye of a voyager as he approaches the mouth of the Columbia from the Pacific, is a high bluff promontory with precipitous sides, covered with pine trees, and sloping to the mainland, with which it is connected by a low and narrow neck. This is called Cape Disappointment, and stands on the north of the river. The entrance on the south side of the river is terminated by a low, sandy spit of land, stretching into the ocean, anC. called Point Adams ; but, properly speaking, for the distance of thirty or forty miles from its entrance into the sea, it is an estuary, indented by deep bays, so as to vary from three to seven miles in breadth. The distance between the exreme outer ends of Cape Disappointment and Point Adams is about foiu miles across. This distance is rendered very dan- gerous and intricate by shoals, forming a sort of flat 113 bar^ on which the winds and irregular currents pro< duce foaming and tumultuous breakers, presenting one line of heavy broken water from shore to shore, which, in rough weather, runs out for three miles into the ocean. But the mouth of the river proper becomes narrower, in consequence of the con- tracting shores of the estuary. The best leading mark for entrance is to bring a projecting point, which looks at a distance like an island, near the higher and northern shore, to bear by compass about east by north, and then to steer for it. But it is dangerous to make any attempt when the breakers are high. Immediately within Cape Dis- appointment there is a wide open bay which yields good anchorage, and is called Baker's Bay, termi- nating at Chinook Point. About fourteen miles from Cape Disappointment, in a south-easterly direction, stands Fort George, on the southern shore, and on an elevation facing the north, terminating with the wide estuary — ^its sand bars, and breakers. It was formerly called Astoria, having been founded by Mr. Astor, of whose pro- ceedings I shall speak more hereafker; but it is now only a small outer dep6t, belonging to the company's head quarters at Fort Vancouver, and kept up for the convenience of the trade with the ■i 114 Indians towards the mouth of the river ; and for the salmon fishery. It is now sadly stript of much of its former importance ; the immediate neighbourhood, with the exception of a small garden and farm reserved for the use of the small garrison stationed there, being overrun with weeds and brushwood. There however still exists one memorial of its former pro- mised importance — for real importance it never had, — a large tree, spoken of by some writers, lying, as a symbol of the decline of American power, flat and withered on the ground. The natives, who dwell about the lower parts of the Colimibia, may be divided into four tribes — the Clotsops, who reside around Point Adams, on the south side, and are reputed by some the most honest — the Chinooks ; Waakiacums ; and the Cathlamets ; who live on the north side of the river, and around Baker's Bay and other inlets. From the great re- semblance between them in person, language, laws, and manners, they all appear to have emanated firom one common stock. Though they occasionally can procure the fiesh of elks, deer, and the water- fowls of the ponds and rivers, their chief subsis- tence is fish, chiefly salmon, which abounds in the river, and inlets ; and roots, and berries, which the women go a gip»ying in groups at the proper season 115 to collect in the upper part of the country. This sea- son is a time of hilarity ; and the women bepaint their faces and persons with a sort of vermillion paint , partly to protect them from the sun, and partly to present a gay and fantastic appearance. These roots and berries they make into cakes, which they dry in the sun. These cakes, and preserved fish, with an accompaniment of venison, form their winter store, of which they generally have no lack. These tribes were formerly very numerous and powerful. But they were greatly thinned by the scourge that spread its havoc far and wide among the northern and eastern Indians for many years — the small pox. After having enjoyed a considerable respite from this visitation, and recruited their force and numbers to some extent, they were again, in 1829, and some subsequent years, attacked by another malady, equally fatal — ^fever, attended with ague. The strong remedies which they adopted for the cure of this, in opposition to all remonstrance, were nearly as destructive as the malady itself. They dug a hole in the ground, five feet square, two feet deep below the surface, and raised two feet and a half above it. On the inside it was tightly boarded, and made a sort of compact oven, with a small aperture barely sufficient to admit the insinuation of the 116 body. A number of stones red hot were thrown in, and the patient (sometimes two or three at a time) immediately after crawled in ; and from a bowl poured on the burning stones a quantity of water supplied from the outside, sufficient to produce a high degree of steam. Having remained there until he was nearly parboiled, he crept out again ; and, as it was imagined that a violent counter-remedy would produce a wholesome reaction, he plunged at once into the cold stream, on the bank of which this hot vapour bath was constructed. The remedy generally did its intended work; and something more; it cured the disease, but killed the patient. As the first visitation of the small pox affected them peculiarly, it may not be out of place here to say a word about it. This terrible scourge, which not only thinned this population, but had nearly dispeopled the whole of the northern continent of the native inhabitants, it is now generally agreed, was first introduced by the Americans of the United States ; and at first broke out among the tribes residing between the sources of the Missouri and the Missisippi. Thence it spread its devastation northward lis far as Athabasca, and the three horns of the great Slave Lake ; and westward across the Rocky Mountains through the MHMIl ■SHIMiMII iir whole region of the Oregon territories, spreading to a vast distance along the shores of the north Pacific. Th^ at first tried their medicine men, or conjurors ; then, when their medicines and charms were found unavailing, they adopted various expedients, which were as fatal as the disease itself; such as bleeding — blistering — steam and cold baths in quick succession. Then, when they failed in every attempt at cure, they became desperate, and impressed with the be- lief that it was a visitation from the Great Spirit, who surrendered them up to the Evil One, as a punishment for their wicked courses. The wretched sufferers were deserted, and left to rot and perish, unaided and unpitied. The more hardened and courageous of those who escaped the attack fled to the desert plains, or the mountains, or the islands of the lakes. Others, more desponding, committed suicide, to save themselves from the horrors which they saw the sufferers endure. The bodies of hun- dreds of men, women, and children used to be seen, afterwards, suspended from the trees, close by de- populated villages, whilst the ground was strewed with putrid and mouldering remains. Numbers of tribes were totally swept away ; or reduced to a few scattered and powerless individuals. The remnants 118 of many others united; and fonned a new and hetero- geneous union. Whenever a person is attacked with sickness, the medicine man is sent for; he orders the patient to be placed on his back, and then commences to chaunt a dismal air. To this the patient's friends, who surround him, at intervals reply in chorus ; and beat time with a long and short stick, which each carries in his hands, striking one over the other. Generally a person is stationed on the roof during this proceeding, and, with a loud voice, joins the chorus inside; while he keeps time to the air by beating hia drum sticks against the roof. The doctor then kneels, and presses his fists with all his force on the patient's stomach ; and, according as the sufferer, under the pain of this operation, cries out, the doctor and the bystanders raise the chaunt louder to drown his voice, and banish the disease within him which is struggling to depart. The doc- , tor having, during the patient's agony, slyly inserted a ' small white stone into his mouthy he seizes his hands which he joins together, and keeps blowing on them. Thus he continues pressing avid blowing until the stone is forced out by the sick man's convulsive ef- forts. This he snatches up, and triumphantly pro- mmm 119 duces to the by-standen aa the source of the disease, which he assures them is now destroyed. The stone is sometimes enclosed in a piece of cedar bark, and thrown into the fire. The severe hard-pressing and pummelling which the patient is obliged to undergo necessarily produces a considerable change in a short time; and though death not unfrequently follows ; yet the general potency of such a mode of treatment is a matter of general belief. Bnt the white doctor has of late made great in- roads on the province of the conjurer, or medicine man; much of whose occupation is now transferred to the dispensary or the hospital of Fort Vancouver, where a single dose of medicine, or a little phlebotomy, has speedily exorcised the " foul fiend "of the disease. Indeed, many of the customs of these people are fast fading away in their increasing intercourse with civilised men. On the death of one of these people, the body was formerly wrapped in skins or mats, and disposed in a small canoe (now they sell the skins and use blan- kets) ; the deceased's arms, and other articles of general use, being laid beside him. The canoe is then placed on a platform by the river side, or on rocks out of the reach of the tide ; and other mats tied over it. Sometimes these sepulchral canoes ^^mmmmmm^ 120 are suspended from boughs of trees, six or eight feet from the gromid. The canoe in which the body is placed is perforated at the bottom, for the two- fold purpose, of letting out the water that the rains may have deposited in it, and of preventing it from ever being used again by the living. When his friends can afford the expence, a larger canoe, re- versed, is placed over the lower, to protect it ftt>m the rain ; and both are firmly tied together. This is his gr&ve. His wives, relations, and slaves go into mourning by cutting their hair ; and for some time after his death repair twice a day, at sun rise, and sun set, to a neighbouring wood to chaunt his funeral dirge. Formerly, on the death of a chief, or other person of wealth and importance, one or more of his slaves (much of an Indian's importance depend- ing on the number of his slaves) was put to death for his use in the next world. But this barbarous superstition has been abolished through the interpo- sition of the company. The present governor. Dr. M'Laughlin, has for this purpose, as well as for many others in which humanity, and the civilisation of the natives, are concerned, made great exertions. The salmon season, of those tribes towards the mouth of the Columbia, commences in June : and its opening is an epoch looked forward to with wmm 121 much anxiety, and is attended with great formality. Th^ have a public festival, and o£fer sacrifices. The first salmon caught is a consecrated thing ; and is offered to the munificent Spirit, who is the giver of plenty. They have a superstitious scruple about the mode of cutting salmon ; especially at the com- mencement of the season, before they have an as- surance of a plentiful supply. To cut it crosswise, and to cast the heart into the water, they consider most unlucky, and likely to bring on a scarce season. Hence they are very reluctant to supply the traders at the stations with any until the season is advanced, and they can calculate on their probable stock; lest an unlucky cross cut by the whitemen may mar all their prospects. Their mode is to cut it along the back ; they take out the back bone, and most studiously avoid throwing the heart into the water. The heart they broil and eat ; but will not eat it after sun set. So plentiful is the fish, that they supply the white men with it in abundance. It is now made a lucrative article of foreign trade. In- deed large quantities of it are sent to the Sandwich Islands, and other planes. > Their canoes vary in size and form. Some are thirty feet long, and about three feet deep, cut out of a sin- ^K xee — either fir or white cedar — and capable of 122 carrying twenty persons. They have round thvrart pie- ces from side to side, forming a sort of binders, about three inches in circumference ; and their gunwales incline outwards, so as to east off the surge ; the bow and stem being decorated, sometimes, with grotesque figures of men and animals. In mana- ging their canoes, they kneel two and two along the bottom, sitting on their heels, and wielding paddles about five feet long ; while one sits on the stem and steers, with a paddle of the same kind. The womeu are equally expert in the management of the canoe, and generally take the helm. It is surprising to see with what fearless unconcern these savages venture in their slight barks on the most tempestuous seas. They seem to ride upon the waves like sea fowl. Should a surge throw the canoe upon one side and endanger its overturn, those to windward lean over the upper gunwale — thrust their paddles deep into the wave — apparently catch the water, and force it 'under the canoe; and, by this action, not merely regain an equilibrium, but give the vessel a vigorous impulse forward. They are rather a diminutive race, generally varying in height from five feet to five feet five inches ; the women being about six inches shorter. Their legs are generally crooked ; their ancks thick ; ■MM 123 and their feet flat — ^a deformity caused, no doubt, by their passing so much of their time in childhood, squatting on the calves of their legs and their heels, in the bottom of their canoes — a favourite position, which they retain even when on shore. The women increase this deformity by wearing tight bandages round the lower part of their legs. The faces of both sexes are round — ^their eyes small and sharp — ^their noses broad, flat at the top, and thick at the end — ^their nostrils large^— their mouths wide — their lips thick — their teeth short, irregular, and dirty. In addition to these characteristics, the wo- men have their ears slit — the cartileges of their noses pciibrated — and their heads and bodies saturated with salmon oil. They are inferior in muscular power and activity to the Indians of the plains, who hunt the deer and bu£falo, and ride on horse- back. lu their early intercourse with the whites, they i.veie Hit scantily clad; the men being entirely naki^i in summer; but in winter wearing a small robe Jifl'le of the skins of animals, and reaching to the middle of the thigh ; and sometimes super* adding a mantle made of matting, which loosely covered the shoulders. The women wore a similar robe, which reached only to the waist ; to which was 11 124 I m appended a kind of petticoat, reaching from the waist to the knee — formed of the fibres of cedar bark broken into shreds, or a tissue of silk-grass, twisted and knotted at the ends ; but in winter they added a vest of skins. The men carefully eradicated every vestige of a beard, considering it a great de- formity. But both sexes allowed the hair of the head, which is coarse and black, and of which they are very prouii:, r t^iw to great length; sometimes wearing it plaite.. ^iometimes wound round the head in fanciful tresses. They had conical hats, with narrow rims, woven of bear-grass, or the fibres of cedar bark ; and exhibiting, in diflferent colours, various designs — such as representations of canoes, men fishing, &c. They also wore ornaments of bears' claws, elks' tusks, &c., as trophies of hunting exploits. But an intercourse with the white traders soon effected a change in the toilets of boiu sexes ; and they now array themselves in any article of dress, and use any ornament, they can procure. According to the general custom of American savages, when employed in warlike expeditions, they painted their bodies and faces in the most grotesque and hideous manner. Their arms were bows and arrows ; spears ; and war-clubs two feet and a half long, and double edged. Some wore a corslet 125 i""i formed of pieces of hard wood, laced together with bear-grass, so as to form a light coat of mail, pliant to the body ; and a light casque of cedar bark, lea- ther, or bear-grass, sufficient to protect the head from an arrow or a war-club. A more complete article of defensive armour was a buff jerkin or shirt, of great thickness, made of doublings of elk skin, and reaching to the feet; holes being left for the head and arms. This was perfectly arrow-proof; and was, besides, ofte believed to be endowed with charmed virtues, imparted by the priests or conju- rers of the tribe. It may be observed, that their only offensive weapon is now the common gun. Their ideas of religion do not differ much from those of the natives of the interior. They believe in an omnipotent and benevolent Spirit, the creator of all things. They represent him as assuming va- rious shapes at pleasure ; but generally give him the accompaniment of wings. Though he usually in- habits the sun, he occasionally wings his way through the ethereal regions, and sees all that is doing on earth : and thunders, tempests, and lightning, are the modes in which he exhibits his displeasure. To propitiate his favour, they offer to him, as sacri- fices, the first-fruits of their hunting and fishing. They also believe in an evil spirit, who inhabits V 126 1 I I I. f I tlie fire, who is less powerful than the first, and is occasionaUy employed to do his services. Therefore they endeavour, in all their undertakings, to propi- tiate him by frequent offerings. They have a belief in a future state of rewards and punishments. Those who have well and faith- fully discharged all the duties of this life, will go to a mild and happy region, teeming with all the com- forts of existence; while those who pursue an op- posite course, will be consigned to a cold and dreary region, where bitter fruits and salt-water will form their principal means of subsistence. They have also a tradition about the origin of mankind : they believe that man was originally created by the su- perior deity, but in an imperfect state, being rather a statue of flesh than a perfect being ; but a second divinity, less powerful, in pity of his helpless condi- tion, opened his eyes; gave him motion ; and taught him all the functions and the arts of life. They have their priests or conjurers, or medicine men, who are supposed to be in the confidence of the deities, and the expounders of their will. Each of these has his diminutive wooden idols, under some rude form of a quadruped, or bird, or fish, repre- senting the spirits of the air and fire. These idols are hung round with amulets and native ofierings. 127 such as beavers' teeth, bears' and eagles' claws, &;c. I have seen the following account in print : but it is incumbent on me to say, that though I mixed very much with these tribes, and was acquainted with their customs, ceremonies, and superstitions, I neither witnessed myself, nor heard of, such a cus- tom existing among them. When any chief personage is dangerously ill, the priests are sent for, who bring their idols. They retire into a canoe, to hold a consultation, and if they do not agree as to the malady, or the mode of treatment, they settle the dispute by beating the idols against each other ; whichever first loses a tooth or a claw, is considered as confuted. Though this mode of de- termining the right is not so formidable as the prac- tice of personal combat, or treading the red-hot ploughshare, once practised in christian Europe, yet it is considered equally efficacious in arriving at a satisfactory conviction. I am willing to believe that such a custom did exist, and was one of those which the growing in- telligence of the natives, in consequence of their intercourse with civilised men, has tended to abolish. Indeed, I am the more inclined to this belief, from my knowledge of the frauds still practised by these crafty conjurers on the credulity of the natives. I '.'»f'WW-iT^ 128 i: I will state an example. In times of pretended in- spiration, and communion with tLe Great Spirit, they seize a fleshy part of the body, about the sto- mach and ribs, in one hand, and plunge a dagger right through the fold, without drawing blood. This act is taken as a proof of their invulnerability — a favour granted by the Great Spirit. I have seen of some of them thus gashed all over the front of the body. While I was in charge of Fort George, one of these crafty old priests prepared to perform this operation in my presence. He grasped a handful of his flabby flesh, and drew his dagger. But I instantly checked him ; as my acquiescence would be tortured by him to the natives, into my belief that he was under divine protection. Besides, I was responsible for the execution of instructions from head quarters, to discourage in every way the superstitious and barbarous practices of the people, and the impostures of the priests. I observed that they avoided those parts where they may have a ' chance of striking through an artery. There prevails a singular custom among all the tribes about the lower part of- the Columbia — ^the flattening of the forehead, and compression of the whole head ; which gives them a hideous appearance. Immediately after birth the infant is laid in an ob- ■MMlii ■■■■ 129 long wooden trough, by way of cradle, with moss under it. The end on which the head reposes is raised higher than the rest. A padding is then placed on the infant's forehead with a piece of cedar bark over it ; it is pressed down by cords, which pass through holes on each side of the trough. As the tightening of the padding, and the pressing of the head to the board, is gradual, the process is said not to be attended with much pain. The appearance of the infant, however, while under it, is shocking : its little black eyes seem ready to start from their sockets — ^the mouth exhibits aU the indications of internal convulsion; and it clearly appears that the face is gradually undergoing a pro- cess of unnatural configuration. About a year's pressure is sufficient to produce the desired effect. The head is ever after completely flattened ; and the upper part of it, on the crown, seldom exceeds an inch in width. This is deemed a mark of beauty and distinction, like small and crippled feet among the Chinese ladies of rank. All their slaves, whom they purchase from the neighbouring tribes, have round heads. Every child of a slave, if not adopted by a member of the tribe, must be left to nature, and therefore grow up with around head. This deformity is, consequently, a mm r ! 180 mark of their freedom. On examining the skulls of these people several medical men have declared, that nothing, short of occular demonstration, could have convinced them of the possibility of moulding the human head into such a form. Though the Indians about the head-waters of the Columbia, and in the other regions bordering on the Rocky Mountains, are called " Flat Heads," the name does not result from such a characteristic de- formity, for all these people have round heads ; but appears to have been originally given them from caprice, or from an observance of some similarity in disposition or habit, between them and the savages of the coast at the mouth of the river. The best supported opinion is, that th^ were of the same original stock with the lower tribes, but discon- tinued the custom. They have a great variety of games, which they pursue often with such ardour, that they would gamble away everything they possess — even their wives and children. One of their usual games is this : One man takes a saitil stone, which he shifts from hand to hand repeatedly, all the while hum- ming a low monotonous air. The bet being made, according as the adversary succeeds in grasjnng the hand which contains the stone, he wins or II -4 11 131 loses. The game is generally played with great fairness; and the loser submits with the most philosophical resignation. They are also consum- mate thieves, and proud of their dexterity. He who is frequently successful gains applause and popularity; but the clumsy thief, who is detected, is scoffed at and despised. So we find among the modem savages, on the shores of the Pacific, the same passion for gambling which, Tacitus says, existed among the aboriginal Germans; and the same merit attached to dexter- ous and successful stealing which existed among the ancient Spartans. Like the Spartans, too, they considered drunkenness a great degradation, — a vice fit only for slaves. On one occasion the son of Comcomly, chief of the Chinooks, was induced to drink at the factory until he became intoxicated. He then played the most extravagant pranks. He was sent home in ithat state: and the old chief went to the factory in a state of high rage, and re- proached the people there for having degraded his son, and exposed him to the laughter and contempt of his slaves. But, however, they deem it, in general, no degradation now to get drunk, when they can. This noted chief, Comcomly, was buried with Mvmp ^mf ■iHti^ l~MUl~,^-y^ 182 groat ceremony, in a canoe near Fort George, in 1831. His body was afterwards taken out of the canoe, for greater security, by his relations, and pkiced, in a long box, in a lonely part of the woods. But the precaution was idle. His head is now in the possession of some eminent physician in Edinburgh ; and, strange to say, although he had been buried about five years, his skin was quite dry, and not decayed. It required a very sharp knife to punetrate the skin ; and his hair was still on his head. Marriage among them is a matter for previous negociation; and attended with solemnity. When a young man has made his choice, and obtained consent; the parents, or other natural guardians of the girl, are next to be consulted. These are to receive a certidn quantity of presents, — slaves, axes, kettles, trinkets, &c. When the amount is agreed on, they repair to the house intended for the young couple, to which the most respectable inhabitants of the village are invited. The young man, having distributed the presents, receives, in the style of the heroes of the Homeric age, an equal, often a greater number, of presents from the girl's relations. Then the bride, decorated with various ornaments, is led forth by a few old womem 188 t resented to the bridegroom, who receives her as his wife. The company, after partaking of hospitality, and wishing the young couple every happiness — a numerous progeny, abundance, and peace, retire. Though the union is generally lasting, it is not indissoluble; as a man may, for infidelity, repudiate his wife; who is, after that, at liberty to take another husband. Polygamy is not only allowed, but is a mark of distinction. The greater the number of wives a man can main- tain the higher is he esteemed. In fact, the res- pectability and influence of the chief depends on the number of wives, slaves, and other property which he possesses; and his election to the office mainly depends on this qualification. Though the wives generally live in harmony together, the first wife takes precedence of all the others, and is considered as mistress of the house. They regulate the prices of their articles by haigiMf which is a milk-white round shell of extreme hardness, found in the neighbourhood of Nootka Sound. It varies in length from one to four in- ches, and is about half an inch thick — hollow, slightly curved, and tapering a little towards the ends. It is highly estimated, the longest being the most valuable. m. 'J»i-m,ii I im— uiuii^jEj^i^^e^wwi mttggJS 184 It resembles the top shank of a common clay smoking pipe. They are valued in proportion to the number that, when ranged on a string, passing through their hollov tubes, extend a fathom's length. Forty to the fathom, is supposed to be the fixed standard of excellence and worth : for instance, forty which make a fathom are worth nearly double fifty which make a fathom. There extreme fragility, lightness, tenuity, and delicacy of colour, are what appear to giro them their importance. They are thus caught in Nootka Sound, and along Vancouver's Island : — ^a piece of deer flesh, or of fish, is dropped from a line to the bottom : this they cling to; and they are then drawn up, and carefully gutted and Stwrgeon fishinff, — Stuigeon are caught by the Chinooks in the following mannra. To the line — ^which is made from the twisted roots of trees — ia attached a large hook, made of hard wood. This is lowered some twenty feet below the surface of the water. The canoes are not more than ten feet long ; manned by never more than two, sometimes only by one ; and slowly drift down the river with the current. When the sturgeon bites, and they have him fast, the line is hauled up gently untU they get his head to the water's edge. He then 18Q receives a blow firom a heavy wooden mallet, which kills him. The gunwale of the canoe is lowc^ x to the verge of the water; and the sturgeon, laough weighing upwaii^s of SOOlbs., is, by the single effort of one Indian, jerked into the boat. A few months since, I saw a paragraph in most of the largely circulated papers, stating that a stur- geon weighing 800 or 400 pounds had been caught in the river Thames; and that a host of people, amounting to 200 or 300, were employed in killing this fish. I thought that the old saying, of nine tailors making a man, was exceeded in this case; as it appears that it took 300 Englishmen to make one Chinook sturgeon- catcher. Their houses are constructed of wood, and vary in length from twenty to seventy feet, and in breadth from fifteen to twenty-five feet. Two or more posts of split timber, according to the number of partitions, aro sunk firmly into the gi'ound, and rise upwards to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet. They are grooved at the top so as to receive the ends of a round beam or pole, stretching from one end to the other, and forming the upper point of the roof, from one end of the building tu the other. On each side of this range is placed another row much lower, being about five feet high, ■■ mm^mtiHifmitr' 136 which forms the eaves of the house. But as the building is (^en suck to the depth of four or five feet in the ground, the eaves come veiy near the surface of the earth. Smaller pieces of timber are then extended, by pairs, in the form of rafters firam the lower to the highw beam, and are fastened at both ends by cords of cedar bark. On these rafters two or three ranges of small poles an; placed horizontally, and in the same way fastened with simikr cords. The sides are then made, with a range of wide boards sunk a small distance into the ground, with the upper ends projecting above the poles of the eaves, to which they are secured by a beam passing outside, parallel with the eave poles, and tied by cords of cedpr bark passing through the holes made in the boards at certain distances. The gable ends and partitions are formed in the same way ; being fastened by beams on the outside, parallel with the rafters. The roof is then covered with a double range of thin boards, ex- I cepting a space of two or three feet in the centre, which serves for a chimney. The entrance is by a hole cut through the boards, and just large enough to admit the body. The largest houses arc divided by partitions; and three or four families may be found residing 137 in a one-roomed house. In the centre of each room is a space, six or eight feet square, sunk to the depth of twelve inches below the rest of the floor, and enclosed by four pieces of square timber ; here they make the fire, which is of wood and pine bark. The partitions in the houses are intended to separate different families. Around the fire- place mats are spread, and serve as seats by day, and frequently as beds at night: there is, how- ever, a more permanent bed made, by fixing in two, or sometimes three, sides of a room, posts reaching from the roof to the floor, and at the distance of four feet from the wall. From these posts to the wall one or two ranges of boards are placed, so as to form shelves, on which they either sleep or stow their various ayiiicles of merchandise. In short, they are Uke berths in a ship. The uncured fish is hung in the smoke of their fires as is also the flesh of the elk when they are fortunate enough to procure any. Their culinary articles consist of a large square kettle, made of cedar wood, a few platters and spoons made of ash. Their mode of cooking is expeditious. Having put a quantity of water into the kettle, they throw into it several hot stones, which quickly cause the water to boil; then mm ■■■■■•m IPrPK!! 138 the fish or flesh is put in; the steam is kept firom evaporating by a small mat thrown over the ket- tle. By this mode a huge salmon would be boiled in twenty minutes, and meat in a proportionably short space of time. They occasionally roast their fish and flesh on small wooden skewers. For the Tilling and cutting of trees — sometimes from thirty to forty feet in circumference — ^for building their houses, and forming their canoes, they had not, previous to their intercourse with the whites, even an axe. For such immense work their only instruments consisted of a chisel, formed out of an old file; a kind of oblong stone used as a ham- mer, and a mallet, made of spruce-tree knot, well oiled and hardened by the action of the fire. They are very ingenious in the construction of their nets, which are made of a sort of wild hemp, sometimes called silk grass, found on the upper borders of the Columbia; or of the fibres of the roots of trees ; or the inner ligaments of the bark of' the white cedar. These nets are of different kinds, for the different kinds of fishery — the straight net for the larger fish in deep water ; and the scooping or dipping net for the smaller fish in the shallower waters. They also use a curious sort of many-pronged spear, for drawing up small fish. _. 189 This is a pole set all round with numerous short wooden littljB spikes. This they work along against the current from the canoe, and against the small fish, that swim onwards in dense masses, At every take up of this spear, which is done in quick succession, it is found filled with fishes impaled on those sharp spikes. In then* nets they use stones in place of le T^PWWPWPBJAlu™', II 140 currents, the localitieB, and all the many other circumstances that ensure success. He set up for a fur trader as well, and imagined that he would make up his loss in competition against the savages by his successful competition against the company. But his trappers were not more successful than his fishermen; although the company afforded him every facility; and he was obliged to quit the country a disappointed adventurer, having disposed of his goods and chatties to the company ; who, according to his own written statement, treated him with generosity. To this fact, which I now state, Mr. W. Irving bears honourable testimony. msaM msmm ^mmmmss'-mm ^ ^i^H^m^mmmmmmm'mmimilKIKmm 14)1 CHAPTER XI. Fort Vancouver— its Farm establishment. FoKT Vancouveb is the head-quarters, establishment, or grand depdt of the company, west of the Rocky Mountains. It is situated near Point Vancouver (so called from the celebrated English navigator and discoverer in those seas), on the north-west of the Columbia; on a large, level plain, about a quar- ter of a mile from the shore ; and rdnety miles from the Pacific, The river in front of it is seventeen hundred yards wide, and six fathoms deep. The whole country round is covered with noble woods, consisting of many kinds of valuable timber; such as cedar, pine, &c., interspersed with open and fertile spaces. It was founded in 1824, by Governor Simpson; as the locality was more convenient for trade — had a larger and richer tract of land for cultivation — and afforded a more convenient landing place for cargoes from, the ships, than the former depdt — Fort George (or Astoria) — ^which lay near the mouth of the river. B&rTi MMM ■^ 14A Fort Vancouver is then the grand mart, and rendez- vous for the company's trade and servants on the Pa- cific. Thither all the furs and other articles of trade collected west of the Bocky Mountains from Cali- fornia to the Russian territories, are brought firom the several other forts and stations : and from thence they are shipped to England. Thither too all the goods brought from England for traffic — ^the various articles in woollens and cottons — ^in grocery — in hardware — ^ready-made clothes — oils and paints — ship stores, kc., are landed ; and £rom thence they are distributed to the various posts of the interior, and along the northern shores by sailing vessels; or by boat ; or pack-horses ; as the several routes permit; for distribution and traffic among the natives, or for the supply of the company's servants. In a word. Fort Vancouver is the grand emporium of the company's trade, west of the Rocky Mountains; as well within the Oregon territory, as beyond it, from California to Kamschatka. ' The present governor is Dr. John Mlioughlin. He is described by American writers, whom he entertained in his usual style, as a portly, digni- fied looking man, almost six feet high; with a florid oomplexion^grey hair — ^large' blue eyes — an open and benevolent exjiression of countenance 148 — bland and oonrteous mannen — a generous and most hospitable disposition. This I know to be all true. He has been in the service of the com- pany from his youth ; to his own credit, and their great benefit. He has mounted up to his present high office — the highest — ^by his diligence, integrity, and skill. He is thoroughly familiar with the whole trade, in all its ramifications and minutie. He has contributed greatly to bring it to its present high state: and is making every effort to advance it farther. He was a very influential partner in the North-west Company, before its junction with the Hudson's Bay Company. During his occasional absence his duties are discharged by his worthy deputy, J. Douglas, Esq. The fort is in the shape of a parallelogram, about 250 yards long, by 150 broad; enclosed by a sort of wooden wall, made of pickets, or large beams firmly fixed in the ground, and closely fitted together, twenty feet high, and strongly secured on the inside by buttresses. At each angle there is a bastion, mounting two twelve pounders, and in the centi^ there are some eighteen pounders; but from the subdued and pacific character of the natives, and the long absence of all apprehension^ these cannon have become useless. The area within is divided ■MMH 144 into two courts, around which are arranged about forty neat, strong wooden buildings, one story high, designed for various purposes — such as oflBces, apart- ments for the clerks, and other oflScers — ^warehouses for furs, English goods, and other commodities — workshops for the di£ferent mechanics; carpenters, blacksmiths, coopers,^ wheelwrights, tinners, _&c. ; in all of which there is the most diligent and unceasing activity and industry. There is also a school-house, and chapel ; and a powder magazine, built of brick and stone. In the centre stand the governor's residence, which is two stories high — ^the dining hall ; and the pub> lie sitting room. All the clerks and officers, including the chaplain and physician, dine together in the hall; the governor presiding. The dinner is of the most substantial kind, consisting of several courses. Wine is firequently allowed; but no spirituous liquors. After grace has been said, the company break np. Then most of the party retire to the public sitting ' room, called " Bachelor's Hall,'' or the smoking room ; to amuse themselves as they please, either in smoking, reading, or telling and listening to stories of their own, and others' curious adventures. Sometimes there is a great influx of company, consisting of the chief traders from the outposts, who arrive at the ■MPP^V* 145 fort on business ; and the commanders of vessels. These are gala times after dinner ; and there is a great deal of amusement, but alwajs kept under strict discipline, and regulated by the strictest pro- priety. There is, on no occasion, cause for ennui, or alack of anecdote and interesting narrative; or in- deed of any intellectual amusement ; for if smoking and story-telUng be irksome, then there is the horse ready to mount, and the rifle prepared. The voya- geur and the trapper, who have traversed thousands of miles through wild and unfrequented regions ; and the mariner, who has circumnavigated the globe, may be found grouped together, smoking, joking, singing, and story telling ; and in every way banishing dull care, till the period of their again setting out for their respective destinations arrive. The smoking room, or " bachelors' hall," presents the appearance of an armoury and a museum. All sorts of weapons, and dresses, and curiosities of civi- lised and savage life, and of the various implements for the prosecution of the trade, may be seen there. The mechanics, and other servants of the establish- ment, do not dine in the hall, or go to the smoking room. The clerks, after passing through many stages of trust and emolument, are promoted to the post of 140 cliicif trader : after that to the post of chief factor ; then they ascend to become shareholders of the com- pany, and governors of forts. But all the gradations of promotion are, in general, dependant on skill, in- dustry, and integrity. Indeed, throughout the various ramifications and degrees of this vast, and wide-spread commercial association, there is less favouritism than could be expected^ and less than in F.ny other mercantile institution: almost all the patronage of the company is bestowed as the reward of merit, and long service. The precision, order, and regularity with which the various operations are car- ried on, together with the strict decorum and sobriety observed, are entitled to the highest commendation ; and excite the wonder of the Americans. The school is for the benefit of the half breed children of the officers and servants of the company, and of many orphan children of Indians who have been in the company's employment. They are taught English (sometimes French), writing, arithmetic and geography; and are subsequently either apprenticed to traders in Canada ; or kept in the company's ser- vice. The front square is the place where the Indians and trappers deposit their furs, and other articles, and make their sales, &c. There may be seen, too* iHiii 147 great numben of men sorting and packing the va- rious goods; and scores of Canadians beating and cleaning the furs from the dust and vermin and coarse hairs, previous to exportation. Six hundred yards below the fort, and on the bank of the river, there is a neat village, of about sixty well built wooden houses, generally constructed like those within the fort ; in which the mechanics, and other servants of the company, who are in general Canadians and Scotchmen, reside with their families. They are built in rows, and present the appearance of small streets. They are kept in a clean and orderly manner. Here there is an hospital, in which the invalided servants of • the company, and, indeed, others Who may wish to avail themselves of it, are treated with the utmost care. This is aitended by Dr. Tolmic, the resident surgeon of the fort. Many of the officers of the company marry half breed women. These dischai^e the several duties of wife and mother with fidelity, cleverness, and atten- tion. They are, in general, good housewives ; and are remarkably ingenious as needlewomen. Many of them, besides possessing a knowledge of English, speak French correctly, and possess other accomplish- ment ; and they sometimes attend their husbands, on their distant and tedious journeys and voya- 148 ges. These half-breed women are of a superior class; being the daughters of cbief traders and factors, and other persons, high in the company's service, by Indian women^ of a superior descent or of superior personal attractions. Though they gene- rally dress after the English fashion, according as they see it used by the English wives of the superior officers, yet they retain one peculiarity — ^the le^n or gaiter, which is made (now that the tanned deer- skin has been supersedeti) of the finest, and most gaudy coloured cloth, beautifully ornamented with beadSi The lower classes of the company's servants many native women, from the tribes of the upper country ; where the women are round-headed, and beautiful. These, too, generally speaking, soon learn the art of useful hotisewifery with great adroitness and readiness ; and they are encouraged and rewarded in every way by the company, in their efforts to acquire domestic economy and comfort. These too, imitate, in costume, the dress of the of* fleers' wives, as much as they can ; but from their necessitie of position, which exposes them more to wet and drudgery, they retain the mocassin, in place of adopting the low-quartered shoe. This is made of deer skin, dressed under a peculiar process; the uo most important of wbJQh is seasoning over warm smoke, by which the leather is rendered perfectly waterproof. These mocassins are so elastic that they can be drawn on like a sto<:king ; and so light that they serve the purposes of high shoe and stocking together. They are open partly down the firont; one side lapping over the other ; and fastened with a long atrip of the same leather— drawn upwards— r- passing two or three times round the leg. The half-breeds are a very well featiured race; and the men are remarkably ingenious, athletic, and vigo*- roua. In horsemanship they are singularly adroit. Nor is this to be wondered at ; for in fact they have been reared from their exiremest youth to the management of the horse, accompanying their pa- rents, generally, in their trapping journeys over the plains and hills on horseback. One of these practised half-breeds would receive applause from Alexander of Macedon himself, or the best tutored equestrian at Astley's. He would mount the wildest and most high-mettled Bucephalus of the plains — give him full play over level and rough — high and low — river and hill, until he brought him back as tame as a mouse. The cleverest fellow, of this school, I ever saw was Joseph M'Loughlin, a natural son of the present gover- nor, by a half-breed woman. He was a peji'son of some 160 little distinction from the accident of his birth, inde- pendently of his astonishing equestrian capabilities. In seeing his feats, when managing a wild stallion, that gallopped and plunged to desperation,— clinging to the animal, as if he were an inseparable part of him — ^playAilly tossing his bare head over the npreared head of the horse, while his breech clung to his back with the tenacity of wax i and his heels seemed glued to his ribs ; with his hands fastened in the mane ; he completely explained to me the fabulous stories which I read in my boyhood of the Centaurs ; for I at once saw that there was some ground for the old pictures of poets and painters, in drawing a com- pound animal — man and horse. The mode generally adopted in catching the wild horse is by the lasso, or noose rope. An ex- perienced and well mounted man, riding a practised horse, gallops up to a herd, holding his head as close to his horse's flowing mane as possible, for a disguise. Thus he is enabled to approach the herd. The herd, ' on seeing him fully, then scamper o£P, from an in- stinctive dread of danger. But he gallops on until he comes within effective range, and has taken his aim. He then lets fly his noose, which is at the cud of a long rope, kept previously coiled up. This is dis- charged like a stone from a sling ; and is thrown with 151 such unerring precision, that the hiunie's neck is caught in the noose. He is at once prostrated. The rider dis- mounts and fetters him. He is soon afterwards tamed. Sometimes the horses are thus caught when roam- ing at lai^, in the wide and open plain ; but the m(xre general custom now is for a number of horse- men to scare them into a kind of enclosed park, wnere the process of catching is rendered more easy and expeditious. Sometimes these ropes are made of the coarse, strong hemp of the country; but generally of thongs from the tanned buffalo hide, as this substance, from its superior weight, strength, and elasticity, is discharged from the hand with greater force, and effects its purpose with speedier and surer effect. Attached to the fort there is a magnificent farm ; consisting of about 8000 acres; of which about 1500 acres have been already brought to the highest state of tillage. It stretches behind the fort, and on both sides, aloQg the banks of the river. It is fenced into beautiful corn fields — vegetable fields— orchards — gardens — ^and pasture fields, which are interspersed with dairy housesj shepherds' and herdsmen's cottages. It is placed under the most judicious management : and neither expence nor labour has been spared to bring it to the most pcrftct cultivation. There 152 is a large grist mill, and a threshing mill, which are worked by horse power; and a saw mill worked by water power. All kinds of grain and vegetables, and many species of fruits, are produced there in abundance and of superior quality. The grain crops ai-e produced without manure; and the wheat crop, especially, is represented by practical farmers to be wonderful. It must> howeyer, be observed, that Indian com does not thrive there so well as in other soils. But this is not considered as any mat- ter for regret or loss. Melons and grapes grow there remarkably well. But perhaps the greatest curiosity of all is to be seen in the dwarf apple trees. These grow thickly, and are so loaded with fruit of the best quality, that it is necessary to prop up the branches to prevent them from breaking: the apples grow packed together, resemblingonions fastened in rows on a string, The whole farm is in charge of a most ex- perienced farmer, Mr, G. Allen, a Scotchman, There is also a principal gardener, Mr, Bruce, a Scotchman. ' Mr. Allen hf^ving been placed as agent for the com- pany at the Sandwich Islands, Mr. Qeorge Roberts, whose skill, and seil pointed him out to the company as one worthy of promotion and confidence, was selected as the fittest successor to Mr. Allen in his important post, 158 Besides this fWrm> which they are every day ex* tending, they have commenced farming on a large scale on the Cowilitze, to the north ; Umpqua, to the south ; and in other parts of the territory, where they have established posts, the produce of all which they use for exportation both to the Rus* sian stations, in Kamskatka (as they entered into a contract with the Russians, in 1839, to supply their posts in those regions with provisions at fixed prices), and to the islands in the Southern Pacific ; and to British and American whalers, and to other merchant ships. They also keep scores of woodcutters, employed to fell timber, which is sawed up in large quantities — 3,000 feet a day, and regularly shipped for the Sandwich Islands, and other foreign parts. And as they can afford to sell the goods purchased in England under a contract of old standing, together with the productions of the territory and their own farms,— "fish, beef, mutton, pork, timber, &c., at nearly half the American price, they are likely to engross the whole trade of the Pacific, as they do already the trade of the Oregon; especially since they command all the ports and safe inlets of the country. This the Americans feel and declare ; aud 154 -i it is this that whets their cupidity, and excites their jealousy and hatred. TVaj^nng Parties leaving Vancouver. — These parties are some weeks preparing for the mountains, and prairies.. The blacksmiths are busily engaged mak- ing beaver traps for the trappers — ^the store keep- ers making up articles for trade, and equipping the men (as each of them takes from the store every requisite article) the clerk, in charge of the pro- vision store (generally called, after the French, de- pance), packing up provisions for them, to last until they get into hunting ground— ^the clerk in charge of the farm providing horses, and other requisite articles. The party generally consists of about ISfty or sixty men — ^most of them the company's servants— ^others, free hunters. The servants have a stated salary, while the freemen receive so much per skin. Pre^ vious to leaving the fort for their arduous ^venture they are allowed a small quantity of rum per man ; and they generally enjoy a grand holiday and feast the night previous to starting, !E)ach man has a cer- tain number of horses, sufficient to carry his equip- ment. The free trappers generally provide their own animals. Both the company's servants and the free- men frequently take their wives and families with v-j mTrritw ay-- 'K saa ' J* 155 them : the women are very uiefiil on the expedition, in preparing meals and other necessaries for their hus- bands during their absence from the camp. In sum- mer and winter, whether they have a sort of travel- ling camp or a fixed residence, they select the localities that most abound in fiir-bearing animals. Though a party may be obliged, from a variety of circumstances, to winter in the plains, or in the recesses of the mountains j on the borders of lakes or rivers, some numbers of it return to the fort at the fallt with the produce of the season's hunt, and report progress; and return to the camp with a reinforcement of necessary supplies. Thus the com- pany are enabled to acquire a minute knowledge of the country and the natives; and extend their power and authority over both. Certain gentlemen of the company have been ap-^ pointed, by act of parliament, justices of the peace ; who are empowered to entertain prosecutions for minor offences, and to impose punishment — to ar* rest and send to Canada criminals of a higher order for trial ; and also to try, and give judgment in civil suits, where the amount in dispute does not ex-< ceed iS200; and, in case of non-payment, to im- prison the debtor, at their own forts, or in the jails of Canada. n i\ 156 Mr. M'Kay, one of the principal officers in charge of the Hudson's Bay Company's trapping party in the Snake country, is a gentleman of great intelli- genw6 and natural astuteness, and also of good feel- ing ', and is quite as much at home in the prairies and wildernesses as he is in a fort. I recollect a stoiy related by him, in ** bachelors' haU.'' He was speaking of a son of a Mr. Bird, a gentleman some years ago in the service of the company. This young Bird (and a wild bird he proved to be) re-^ ceived a fair education, and could converse in French and English. He was some time in the company's service; but, finding the work too hard for him, joined the Blackfeet Indians, and was made a chief; and he took several daughters of chiefs for bis wives, and became a man of some note and respect. He received, amongst the trappers, the nick-name of Jemmy Jock. He had then been living with the Indians twenty years, and was much disliked by the American trapping parties; in fact, it has been said that the Americans did once offer 500 dollars for his head, as they supposed he had been a leader amongst a tribe of Blackfeet when an American party was cut off by them. Mr. M'Kay said, he was once encamped in the plain, and imagined that the Blackfeet must be i^ ^•i^ 157 the vicinity of the camp, by vhrious marks. He ac- cordingly, at night, gave strict orders to the Cana- dians on watch to keep a good look out ; which they did> with rifle in hand. But this Jemmy Jock, dres- sed as a Canadian voyageur, managed to enter the camp unobserved — walked up to the chief man on watch ; and, addressing him in Canadian French, said that he had " received orders that the horses which were in the camp should be turned out to graae." The watchman, taking it for granted that the order came from M'Kay, ordered the horses to be let out. But before long the camp was roused by the loud whoop of the Blackfeet : some of the horses were mounted ; and others driven off before the marauding party ; the poor trappers being left to make the best of their way through the plains as they could. Sometimes in travelling through the plains the company's trap- pers fall in with a letter, tied to a stick, left by this humorous half-^breed, to announce that he has camped at this spot with his party a short time previous— sometimes giving them good information ; and sometimes intending to mislead, and play them a frolicksome or mischievous trick* Rifle-shots.— -It is generally a custom amongst first rate rifle-shots, in the service, to have a favourite rifle. This rifle always being practised with, they 168 I IM. ^iJ ■li Jf ': are sure to hit the mark, Tt is frequently seen, that, by a good rifleman, a duck's head is knocked off at 120 yards. This Mr. M'Kay is an excellent shot. He says that he generally shoots the bear in the mouth, to save the skin. During the leisure hours in the summer months, at the fort, after busi- ness hours, the officers oflten amuse f hemselires at rifle-shooting; and at eighty yards, the bull's^ye is seldom missed: and onc6 or twice a treek, the riding horses are generally brought into the Fort for the officers to recreate themselves with a ride. Here we had an old and favourite servant, who was cook, and whose name was Overy, a Canadian. He was never more happy than when he was able to play off his pranks with any of the sailors, when a vessel lay in the river. At one time, on the arrival of a vessel from England, there was on board a curious, eccentric old boatswain, who had, previously to joining the company^s service, been on board a man-of-war. The cook and the boatswain became very familiar; and the cook was invited on board the vessel to dine with the boatswain. The invi- tation was accepted; and the compliment was re- turned on the Sunday following. Overy not know- ing what to get good enough for his dear and hos- pitable friend, the boatswain, bethought him of a 169 I "^1 ; a dog, vrhich is a favourite dish amongst Canadian voyagenrs. The old boatswain ate heartily of it, as did the cook. After he had done, the cook inquired how he had enjoyed his dinner : he said it was beau- tiful. He then {isked him whether he knew what he had been dining on : he said he supposed from a goat. " Yes" says the cook, " you have been eating from a goat with von long tail, that don't like grass or heather." " How is that T" inquired the boat- swain. "Vy you see," replied the cook, "it was my best dog, you have dined from." The old boatswain stormed and swore ; and then ran, as fast as possible, to the vessel, to get a little rum to lay his stomach. He vowed that he never again wished to dine with a Canadian cook, or eat pet dogs. In 1829, a beautiful brig— *the William and Ann ; sent from England for the company's use — in enter- ing the river, was driven on a shoal, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams. A report was given to the gentleman in chai^ of Fort George that a vessel was wrecked on the Bar. A search was immediately made ; and it was found that the report was true. A boat was found driven on shore : and the stem had been cut as if by an axe. The body of the captain alone was found. The whole of thti crew perished ; and it was generally supposed that /!' \U 160 8ome of them had got on shore, but were destroyed by the Clatsop Indians; in whose possession were found numerous articles which had drifted on shore. In fact, th^ had a great quantity of the cargo, with several puncheons of rum, buried under the sands on the beach. The governor of Fort Vancouver sent down an interpreter, and several men, to en- deavour to gain information respecting the lost ship ) and to get from the natives the things which had drifted on shore. But the natives merely sent impertinent messages, and an old broken paper* framed looking-glass ; and told him to be contented with that. This strengthened the governor's suspi- cion, and he thought part of the crew had been mur- dered. To gain the articles in possession of the Indians, he was obliged to send a strong party of armed men amongst them; and drive them from their village into the woods, before they could gain the articles. From that hour to this, the natives have shrunk from tampering with anything under the companjr's protection. The year following, a splendid brig— 'the Isabella — commanded by Captain Ryan, shared the same fate. She drove upon the sands : but the whole of the crew were saved ; and, by the prompt exertions of Dr. M'Loughlin, and the officers of Fort Van- 161 couver, great part of the cargo was saved : but the vessel went to pieces ; and was drifted, piecemeal, to sea. A little time previous to- my leiiving the country, Michel Laframboise, the gentkman in charge of the trapping parties hunting the plains near Cali- fomia, brought news of an American party having been cut off. This party had left the Wallamette set- tlement ; and were proceeding to California, to pur- chase cattle. Some Americans, previous to this party, had been on the same route, and an Indian had been murdered by them. But Indians always wait for revenge — so did they in this instance. The Indians, finding that this party consisted of Ameri- cans only, thought it offered them their long-looked- for opportunity of revenge. They had, it was sup- . posed, been watching the Americans on their jour- ney, for days; and knowing, that these had to cross a high mountain, where there was but a nar- row and crooked path to guide them ; which was lined by rocks and bushes on each side, selected this as the spot of attack. The path was so narrow, that their horses were obliged to walk single, one after the other. After the party had gone some distance up the mountain, the Indians completely closed them in, and let fly their arrows and guns ; r jjpipiiiipii. 162 killing both horses and men. The Americans, having but little chance of defence or retaliation, as the Indians were sheltered by the rocks and bushes, were slain unresistingly. One little half-breed boy, named Johnson, after three arrows had pierced him, was in the act of firing his gun, when a fourth arrow struck him in the throat and killed him. Two men only were saved to tell the tale. On one occasion an American vessel. Captain Thompson, was in the Columbia, trading furs and salmon. The vessel had got aground, in the upper part of the nver, and the Indians, from various quarters, mustered with the intent of cutting the Americans off, thinking that they had an opportunity 01 revenge, and would thus escape the censure of the company. Dr. M'Loughlin, the governor of Fort Vancouver, hearing of their intention, im- mediately despatched a party to their rendezvous ; and informed them that if they injured one Ameri- v^an, it would be just the same offence as if they had injured one oi his servants, and they wo^ild be treated equally as enemies. This stunned them ; and they relinquished their purpose ; and all re- tired to their respective homes. Had not this come to the governor's ears the Americans must have perished. \ • ■ i 163 Mode of curing salmon. — As soon as a cargo of salmon is cauglit, the natives bring it to the trading post in their canoes. A number of Indian women are employed by the trader, seated on the beach, Mith knives, ready to cut up the fish. The salmon are counted from each Indian, for which a ticket is given for the quantity, large or small. After the whole of the salmon are landed, the ^!adians con- gregate round the trading :ihop for their payment, and receive ammunition, baize, tobacco, buttons, &c. The women employed by the trader commence cutting out the back-bones, and cut off the heads of the salmon. They are then taken to the salter, and pliiced in a large hogshead, with a quantity of coarse salt. They remain there for several days, until they become quite firm. The pickle produced from these is boiled in a large copper kettle ; and the blood, which floats by the boiling process to the top, is skimmed off, leaving the pickip" perfectly clear. The salmon are then taken from the hogshead and packed in tierces, with a little znorrj salt ; the tierces are then headed up, and laid upon their bilge, or widest part, leaving the buDg-hole open; the pickle is next poured in, until the tierce becomes full ; a circle of clay, about four inches high, is then made round the bung-hole, into which the oil from the salmon rises. n 4 164 This oil is skimmed o£P; and, according as the sal- mon imbibes the pickle, more pickle is poured in, so as to keep the liquid sufficiently on the surface, and afford facility for skimming off the oil. After the oil ceases to rise to the circle round the bung hole, the salmon is then supposed to be sufficiently prepared; the clay circle is cleared away, and the hole is bunged up. Salmon, so cured^ will keep good for three years. This, soaked in a little wa- ter for a few hours previous to using, is delicious eating; but, of course, much of its deliciousness depends on its original quality when taken, and its freshness when put in salt. The dogs are very fonJ of the raw salmon. The Indian dogs, which are a sort of half wolf breed, with sharp nose and long bushy tail, eat it with perfect safety ; but it is fatal to English dogs. I lost three valuable dogs in this way, before I was aware of its fatal effects. They slunk into the woods, and pined away until they died. On open- ing tliem, I found the gall bladder as hard as a stone. The company have already established the fol- lowing- principal trading forts or stations within the limits of the territory, independently of minor and temporary posts, and several migratory 169 establishments on the frontiers of CaUfomia, and the country extending towards the confines of the United States. In short, it may be said, that they have taken possession of every district within the whole region ;. which, throughout its wild and rugged parts, as well as its fertile parts, is dotted with their forts and establishments; and they exercise unrestrained trade and intercourse with all the na- tive tribes ; whereas the Americans, with the excep- tion of a few missionary and agricultural establish- ments, have scarcely any possession or hold of the country. They possess, then, the following principal posts : — Fort Vancouver, on the north bank of the Co- lumbia, ninety miles from the ocean, and in latitude 45^°, longitade 122" 30' ; Fort George (formerly As- toria), near the mouth of this river ; Fort Nasqually, on Puget's Srmnd, latitude 47"; Fort Langley, at the outlet of Frazer's River, latitude 49" 25' ; Fort M*L«igfclin, on Milbank Sound, latitude 52" ; Fort Simpson, on Dundas Island, latitude 54i"; Frazer's Fort, Fort James, M'Leod's Fort, Fort Chilcotin, ami Fort Alexandria, on Frazer's River, and its branches, between the 51" and 544° parallels of lati- tude; Thompson's Fort, on Thompson's River, a tributary of Frazer's, latitude 50"; Ko( tiana Fort, ^iWPiPP" 166 on Flatbow River; Flathead Fort, on Flathead River; Fort Hall, and Fort Boisais, on the Saptin, or Snake River; Fort Colville, and Fort O'Kanagan, on the Columbia, above its junction with the Saptin ; Fort Percys, or Wallawalla, a few miles below the juno- tion ; Fort M'Kay, at the mouth of the Umqua River, latitude 43" SO', and longitude 124" west. In addition to these establishments, they have an immense number of boats and canoes, for trading on all the lakes, and rivers, and streams of the in- terior, by means of which they hold communica- tion with their possessions east of the Rocky Moun- tains, and carry up the communication to Hudson's Bay, along a distance of several thousand miles. Besides these, they have powerful steamers, heavily armed, which run along the coast, and among its bays and inlets, for the double purpose of commerce and protection against aggressions in those sens. They have likewise several sailing vessels for these purposes, varying from two to five hundred tons burthen, completely armed and equipped; besides barges for the conveyance of goods to the lower part of the river ; and other craft, during the salmon season, for the conveyance of supplies to the fishing stations on the parts of the river unnavigable to the larger craft. ^X, 167 CHAPTER XII. Wappatoo Inland and Wallaraette Settlement. Five miles below Fort Vancouver, and on the op- posite, or southern side, there is an island called Wappatoo Island. It lies between the two entrances of the river Wallamette, which tlows into the Co- lumbia; and is nearly triangular. Its northern side, facing the Columbia, is about fifteen miles long; the side bounded by the eastern branch, or mouth of the Wallamette, is about seven miles long ; and the side bounded by the western branch of this river is about twelve miles. It derives its name from its great abundance of an esculent root called Wap- patoo ; a name which the Indians give the potatoe. This root is oblong, about one inch long and half an inch thick, resembling the lower end of a small parsnip. The Indians use it for food ; and I have seen flocks of swans, which abound in these parts, dig it up with their bills, as it grows only a few inches below the sui'face. Its taste resembles that of the potatoe. w,»ai ■' ■■1" *■*«■■*-» ii'*** mm ■m ]68 Oa this island, and on an elevated situation, near the point where the mouths of the Wallamette branch off, Captain Wyeth, of Boston, founded a settlement, when he commenced his fishing and fur trading projects; but which has since been abandoned, with the abandonment of his projects. The vegetation is generally good ; but in the central parts there are marshes, in which the water rises and falls with the tide, and overfloods the land. It is covered, in most parts, with difierent kinds of timber, but principally oak and pine. A few hogs placed on it a few years ago by the company have increased to large herds, which subsist on the wappatoo, acorns, &c. ; and are become a source of profit, by supplying pork for the home consumption, and for exportation. On the island the company have also established a large dairy farm. The upper, or eastern mouth of the Wallamette is about half the breadth of the Columbiaj the river itself, which flows neai'ly due north, is navi- gable to the distance of t\i°nty-five miles for large vtssels, and is studded with numerous islands, on which the timber is chiefly oak, very little pine (if any) growing there. The further navigation of the river is obstructed by rapids, and is completely barred by caturacts, or fall«, about a mile above the 169 rapids. The tide ascends as far as these rapids, which can be passed only by canoes. The Cow country, on the western banks, is generally high land, coviered with wood, principally pine, rising from the water side. The land on the eastern side is undulating, and admirably calculated for cultivation. The river receives many tributaries; but one of the most considerable is one which flows from the east, and Yushes into the Wallamette with such force, just below the rapids, as to create a heavy and dangerous swell. As far as the rapids the breadth of the river is about five hundred yards. The falls consist of three successive cascades, in which the water is precipitated through deep gullies worn iuto ledges of black rock, running in an irregular diagonal across the bed of the river. The noise of the water is almost deafening, resembling the roar of the loudest thunder ; and the appearance of the spray, acted on by the sun's rays, is almost dazzling. The eastern shore, for some distance below the falls, is a perpendicular cliff, thirty feet high. On the top of this cliff there is a sort of small plain ; and as the valley of the Wallamette is the most fertile district in all Columbia, and best calculated for the production of corn (since the country round about abounds in excellent r^m^wmim^'^ PW^^^^W^W^WWJ^ 170 timber of dSfforeut kinds) and as the falls can be approached from above, as well as from below, by sloops, schooners, steamers, &;c. ; this small plot of level ground on the precipitous bank of the river at the lowest cascade is admirably calculated as a site for flour and saw mills. When I left the country the company, seeing all these advanti^es, were forming a raceway at the falls; and were drawing timber to the ground, with a view to'erect some such works there. Formerly it was necessary to unload at the commencement of the falls; and convey canoes, luggage and all, overland to the other end, till there was deep and smooth water found again. It is a curious sight to observe the salmon as- cending these waterfalls. They seem to measure the height and distance, and their own strength, accurately. They appear to put their tails in their mouths ; and having drawn the body to the proper curve, and produced the necessary tension and poise, they let go their hold and spring upward (outside the descending sheet of water), like an arrow shot from a bow, and reach the next basin into which the water is precipitated. Having there, as it were, taken breath, and recruited their strength afker such an effort, they renew the attempt, over the succea- 171 sive cataracts, until they reach the smooth river above. They generally succeed; some, * vever, fulj and get sadly battered against the rocks. A short distance above the Falls, tSie mountains immediately rise from the water's edge, and are clothed with forests of the largest timber, to &e distance of about fifteen miles akmg the river ; and after that the country opens on both, sides into rich level, or undulating ground, spreading to a great extent. This section of the river is navigable nearly for as large vessels as can navigate the section be- low the Falls. It is in this fertile district, near the banks of the river, at the distance of about fifty miles from its entrance into the Columbia, that the Wallamette settlement has been established. The Americans make a great boast of this settle- ment as an American establishment ; and speak of it in their public papers and speeches, as if it were a settlement exclusively American, and founded by Americans, capable of being made the nucleus of a great community — that it is a most thriving colony — that it continues the right of possession to the government of the States — that it owes no favour to, and is independent of, the Hudson's Bay Company — that there it stands, and will 172 stand, a memorial of American right — that it is the duty of the American government to pro- tect it; while it holds out every incentive to in- dustrious and enterprising citizens to join it. All this, and much more, has been said and written by gasconading traders on the passions and weak- ness of the populace, about this vaunted establish- ment : and has been believed. It is not very sur- prising that any. extravagant story, which flattered the vanity, or excited the hopes or the cupidity of such a people as the Americans, should gain credence in the States ; especially if it be seasoned with bitterness against the "Britishers." Much of this misrepresentation and exaggerating nonsense has been believed too in England; simply because the public could not imagine that statements so pertinaciously reiterated could be without, at least, some foundation; and because no attempts were made by those acquainted with the real state of the case to disabuse the British public of their miscon- ception, on this, and other points of importance; such as the right uf possession. The Hudson's Bay Company, who had the best means of refuting the statements of the United States' writers, evidently despised and disregarded those statements. Tbey were content, not only 173 with the possession of the country, as the chief part- ners, and with the almost exclusive enjoyment of its trade ; hut rested on the consciousness of their just, moral, and judicious conduct as traders, and occupiers under their right of imperial tenure : and tbey fairly and naturally concluded that it would tend to throw a doubt on the justice of their claim, if they were to enter into a contro- versy about it. Their claim they considered to be undeniably just ; and its vindication to be the duty of the legislature alone. Now the plain history of the origin and progress of this settlement is simply this. About seventeen or eighteen years ago, when the settlement at Vancouver, as the western head- quarters of the company, acquired a distinguished and very prominent position, and became the rally- ing point for all the servants of the company far and near; when the surrounding country became well explored ; when, from the long and undisputed possession of it by the company, it began to be considered by the company's servants as British laud — British, too, as to its climate, and the capa- bilities of the soil — some of the company's servants, when they had determined to enjoy the tranquillity of independent retirement after their long and ar- \'<^ *• > IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 kit2A 12.5 ■JO ■^~ H^B ^ Uii |22 w 1^ i^ m u UO 12.0 I'^iJ^i'-^ < : 6" ► ^^ ^ A '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN SlMiJ WHSTIR, NY. USaO (716)173-4303 ^.V '^ V- m^mm IJ'I ; 174 duous services, fixed on the banks of the Walla- mette as their last place of residence; rather than return to Canada, or Scotland, or England, from which they were weaned by long absence. The company gave every encouragement for the formation of a settlement; giving them stock, &c., to start with. By and bye, some of the company's officers (I may especially mention one — Mr. M'Kay, the well known and meritorious director of the Rocky Moun- tain trapping parties) thought this commencement afforded a fair opportunity of becoming settlers, con- secutively with the retention of their connexion with the company; and they opened farms there. The speculation wenf; on thrivingly : and the opi- nion spread abroad, even to the United States, through means of the American free trappers, that a rising colony would be soon established in that locality; and that the success of this, under such powerful auspices as those of ihe company, would gradually lead to the colonization of the whole lower region, where it was capable of colonization. This impression the company's chief officers did not attempt to remove. They, on the contrary, rather wished to afford every encouragement and facility for the progress of improvement and civilisation. <. t pp 175 The Americans^ who had already mado many at- tempts to e£fect a lodgment in the country, but on every occasion failed^ either from their want of skill, or of capital, or of integrity in their dealings with the natives — whether they attempted fur trading 00 npanies or fishing companies — ^having now seen that a fair opportunity of securing a possession was opened to them under the company's shelter, be- thought them of despatching missionaries, with the ostensibly benevolent and christian view of giving religious culture to the rude, and ill-educated ser- vants of the company, and the denizens of this growing little community. A few missionaries did arrive : and they, as was becoming their professed purpose, received every en- couragement and favour from the governor of Fort Vancouver —Dr. M'Loughlin ; and, as became their true purpose, commenced resident farmers — teaching, it is true, the natives the great elements of Christianity, and forms of prayer — ^but using their gratuitous labour for the cultivation of their fields. These missionaries did not " hide their lamp under a bushel," bat, on the contrary, " proclaimed their light before all men," and sent to the States flat- tering accounts of their success. The consequence was, that some adventurers, with a little property. J 176 were induced to brave the penis of the long and formidable journey (leaving millions of more fertile acres at home, requiring less capital and labour for cultivation) to the Oregon. Some of these set- tlers came in their real character of farmers; but they were very few. Others came in the guise of missionaries — such missionaries as their predeces- sors — men who give a little preaching as an equiva- lent for much bodily labour performed by the native converts. Some of these have located themselves in other districts : and hence there are, by Ameri- can writers, given the. most pompous accounts — accounts, to those who are acquainted with the real facts, sometimes laughable, and sometimes calculated to excite indignation and disgust — of American settlements. While I was stationed at Vancouver ; and in the detached forts ; and in the trading ships, the exces- sively benevolent encouragement granted by the governor to the new importation of American resi- dents, under the designation of missionary-settlers, used to be freely discussed. There were two par- ties — ^the patriot, and the liberal. The arguments, pro and con, may be summed up thus: the Brit- ish, or patriots, maintained that the governor was too chivaLrously generous — that his generosity 177 waa thrown away, and would be badly requited — ^tbat be was nurturing a race of men who would by-and-by rise firom their meek and humble po- sition as the grateful acknowledgers of his kind- ness, intc cn> bold attitude of questicners of his ow'i. authority and the British right to Vancouver itself. This party grcimded their ailments on an ajtpeal to the conduct and character of the Americans ▼ horn they had seen — especially the free trappers ; and the remnants of the American companies which still dodged about in the country. They did too take into account the missionaries, who were then tried ; and who, of course, did everything in their power to conciliate, at their first appearance on such a new stage, the good opinion of those whose ap- plause or condemnation could retain, or expel them from the scene of their labours, and prospects. This party had a very lively feeling for the improvement of the Indians in all the arts of civilisation ; and thought that if any attempts were made for the conversion of the natives to Christianity, and to their adoption of more humanised institutions (which they limited to British institutions) a solid and permanent foun- dation should be laid — ^the Indians should not be instructed by halves — a thoroughly lasting system should be adopted towards them ; which wopl^ make \ I I ! 178 titem not nmely profeased, but praetkal, ehrittianiB. Something more than making them the olMeiven of fonns, and ihe vepeatem of prayers, was lequinte ; eapecii^ as most of the tribes idieady believed in many a£ Ubio gxeat oaidinal poists of dmstianity — sndi as theexixtence of « good and evil S]^xk — 'l^e creation of the world by <^ Good Spirit — ^the im- mort^ty of the' soul— a liitiiie state of rewards and punishments. Th^ idso maintained thatt the nusrionaries should be misnonaries in realUf^ — ^men looking to the suQcessM termination of their labours as their prmcipal reward — me., above Ute imputation or xuqpidion of being guided by self-interest, in their exertions— ^men who would not tquat, as p^manent and fixed hmdbandm^i, and occasional traffickers in «kii» of animals, among the natives ; uring them as &rm labourers : bat ttiat iibsy should be bona fide pastoraof the christian church* — agoing dbout in the true spirit of priuutive Christianity — instructing the peoj^e in t^e 4Sardinal doctrines of our retigion, and in 1^ aits of civihsed Me. Furthermore, they used to maintain, tiuit, if missionaries at all were to be iaitrodnoed, or sanctioned in the country, this use- fill class of men — a class cdculated to exercise such ▼ital ix^nence over the character and condition of the natives — should come within l^e direct control 179 / oi the domiiMUit powbr, *. e., the ^tish |tolr«r ; md should be tiie conntfTdnen of those nrho aibsohitely oocnpied Oregon. Besides, thi^ used oeoaiioiiidly to launch out against the efalffacter and ihstitutioiu of the Amerieans geaMetiXfy; saying that/ white they prodauned liberty, thqr pmctiBed daveiy, iaa. some of its most edioift forms, not as mc^Tidnids merely ; bttt that ifhde States adopted and defended the practice— fliat it was l^ien a fraud and a mockery fi>r AnMcioans to profess «ny anxwty tat the ameliorsr* tion of l^e Ibidians; since At heme ^ey enslaved and hunted them down, keeping them in irredeem- aUe hmdage m the southern states, and driving those who still retained their freedom, in the north, and north-west, to the hiOs and deserts ea&t of the Bocky Mountains. Iliey also used to ui^ the itrong fact* of the repeated yb»iltfr£« of the Americans to secure any extensive possession in the country; and of 'ti&e general repugnance of the natives to them-^repugnance caused by the experienoe whidi the natives had of tlieir habits and principles — men who had no scruple about the means of making monqr ; and who would, at the caprice of the moment, hang up an obnoxious individual, without judge or jury, by their lAfneh, or mob law. The other party, which was called the pMlcnophi- 180 eo/ and the liberal party, did not contravene theie genitral heads of argument. Thej admitted that the Americans, not only as individn&!8, bnt in com- r^unities of whole States, were not exempt firom . the charge of firaudulen<7' and tyranny ; in as mnch as the Sonthem States are slave holders, and some of the wealthiest states openly refuse to pay their debts, though no people treat their own debtor prisoners more cruelly; — that the half apostolical, . and half agricultural character of the missionaries, was not that best adapted to the purpose an4 spirit of men going abroad to enlighten the heathen ; —that the Americans failed to secure a permanent footing as traders in the country, from the dishonesty of their dealings, and their habit of domineering over the Indians, and corrupting them. But still they asserted that the Americans ought not to be ex- cluded, in as much as they possessed some daims to the right of occupancy— claims, though feeble, still existing — and, until these were quashed or confirmed, it would be imjust, and impolitic, to exclude them from all possession. The Americans were, it was true, they admitted, holders of slaves at home, and were every day driving the Indians firom their native lands; and, though hypocrites, as to professions of fireedom, on that account, yet they could not enslave the Indians ene theie ;ted that t in com- npt from at much md some pay their u debtor ^ofltolical, nionaries, pose an4 heathen ; ennanent lishonesty sring over still they to be ex- claims to ieble, still >onfirmed, them from true, they I every day ids; and, >edom, on le Indians 181 of Oregon, or drive them further off, when there was British power to check them. Though the missionaries were not of tiie best dass, yet they were better than none at ailj es- peoiaUy when England so grossly neglected the natives. Dr. M'Loughlin may have acted indis' erectly, but he acted justly, in sanctioning these emigrants. He could not lay an interdict on their arrival ; and even should they turn out as bad as the rest of the motly groups that came from the States, the British residents could not be dis- appointed. But, above all, good would grow out of evil in the end ; for the Americans, by their intercourse with the British, would become more humanised, tolerant, and honest. Hence, they said, it was philosophical and liberal to'encourage the Ame- rican missionary squatters. And as to the American Lynch law, and other usages which were repugnant to justice and humanity, they were rather excep- tions to the American code, than examples of American principles of legislation, which, in com- mercial and civil matters, was, generally speaking, just and humane; and from which even British legislation derived some useful hints. These debates, which embraced various other points, too numerous to detail, would sometimes 182> ma higit; and show » gfMt deal of acuteneu and general knowledge,— more than ironld be ex- pected from men who had apent moat o£ tiieir time in the wildemeM, and in communion, with Mvvgea. The Canadianr and half-breeda generally aided with the Btitiah, or patriot party> and tamed the acale. But I mutt confoaai that though, on the whole nmge of dispute, the jm/tM party were the victorii yet, on, -one point, their antagonista had a clear advantage— the neglect of the oonyenion and dyiliiation of the natiTes on the part of the \ home government and of the Britiah and Foreign Missionary Society* But this subject is more fully treated in another place. The residents of this settlement of Wallamette sxe a mixed and motly group — ^retired servants of the company--*American missionary-farmera— some tern American fiurmers, not misrionaries; and free trappers> who preferred aa easy location on thia district, to the excitinif and deeq^erate perils of solitary wanderings amid the hills and' deserts, and to occasional residence among the savages: several of these latter have squatted there with th^ Indian wives and children. Hie residences show dif- ferent dflgrees' of comfort^ according to the property, the intelligence} and industry oi the ooeupiMs ; from 188 the rade log •tnictiira, of fifteen or twenty Ibet •qnsre^ witii the nod ohuttiMj — » iNwden beaeh in plaoe of ehairs^a beadrteed covered widl' lleg mat»-^a feir pot^ and other trifling avtidee^ to the large, tolerably well built, and equipped turn house; in which- the owncn a^oy, in rude^enty, tfie. produce of tolerably well tilled^ and w^ stocked fiffms. These ipots: of cultivated land j of cour8e> va&y in: extent and qualiiy of culture according to the ddU and resources of the owners. Some farms oonsbt of not more than thirty acre»; some consist of 100. The best appointed farms are those of the company's SCTvants. Mr M'Kay, who has fiumed under the company's sanction, has lately erectiBd a grist mill, the expense of which is reported to be not less than £2000. These dwellmgs do not, pro- perly speaking, ccmstitnte a villi^, but are scattered oyer a surface of several miles: thougli some few are clnstared together. Most of the nussionariei are Episcopalian Methodists. But half the civilised populaticni, if not more, are Roman Girtholics, who have their own priest and thek^ own chapel. The- cc^ny has all the appurtenances of a set- tlement — school houses — chapds-^an hospital— ^a meeting house —granaries, &;c. But though there is a considerable extent of land under cultivation, yet 164 Um whole is not perhap* more extenaive then the otHnpany's angle tuna at Vanoouyer; and in point of numagement, and approxinvation to tme fkrming, (according to English prindplee and notions,) cannot be even remotely compared t j it Lieutenant Wilkei, who conducted the exploring expedition appointed by the American goremment, visited this settlement ; and in his report, lately published by authority, says, — "About nxiy fami- lies are settled there, the industrious of whom ap> pear to be thriving. They are composed of American Missionaries, trappers, and Canadians, who were formerly servants of the Hudson's Bay C!ompany. All of them appeared to be doing well; but I was, on the whole, disappointed from the r^aorti which had been made to me, not to find the settle- ment in a greater state of forwardness, considering the advantages which the missio- iries have had." Now this account of the settlement deserves to be noticed. He says that the number of families settled there was tixty — not ^nore. Of these, many were British subjects ; so that the number of sub- jects of the United States was inconsiderable. . The American missionaries were merely speculating small farmers. AU were not thriving; but only the in- dustrious portion. This, to|;ether with his mention id5 of ditappointmentt and of the report$ made to him, clearly ihows that there were circulated in the States, exaggerated acoonnts of the prosperity and importance of the colony; and false inducements held but to citizens, to emigrate thither; and to the Federal government, to sustaiii its rights eren at the risk of a quarrel with Great Britain, in defence of this fancied American colony — rights which were not, and are not, invaded ; and are not meant to be invaded by the company. This admission, too, which is involved in his account, is the more . worthy of notice, considering the disposition whicli this gentleman !-;liows, to represent to his govern- ment the Oregon territoiy as a prize, even in an agricultural point of view, worth contending for; as appears from the extravagance of his general picture, in his summing up. He says : — "To conclude; few portions of the globe, in my opinion, are so rich in aoU, so diversified in surface, or so capable of being rendered the happy home of an industrious and civilised community. For beauty of scenery, and aalubrity qf climate, it cannot be surpassed. It is peculiarly adapted for an agri- cultural and pastoral people : and no portion of the world, beyond the tropics, can be found that will . ' 186 yidd M raadily, with moderate labomv to the want* of num." All this he aMwrti^ althirag^ it sppeam from his whole prenone statement,, that from the nahuft of the soil and dimatci ^'^ oonsidlBred at least one half of the tenitoiy unfit for agricnltmre; With Mapect to the entire of *'^'i eastern section^ he says, " the teuqpemtnre during tiie day, differing from 6(y to 60*, renders it w^ feat ffgrieuUwei and there are bat fbw places in its northern parts, where the cli^ mate would not efl^ctually put a stop to its ever becoming Httled. In each day, aocordii^ to the best accounts, all the chmges are eiqierienced, which are incident to qsring, summer, autumn, md win^- ter. There are places where small farms might be located, but they are few in number." Mr. Famham, the latest American writer, though an undisguised partisan — a rampant anti-Britisher — and anxious to place the capabilitiies and vAlue of the countiy in the' most fiirourable view before his fellow-citizens, cannot aroid dissenting from Mr. Wilkes' concluding remarks. He says, *'it wUl be seen on reference to them, that the agricultqnd capabilitiee of Oregon are placed above those of any part of the world, bejond the tropics. This W7 is a mxui! majfrinimi condimon^-tki xrea witli his own accomit of the seyeral seotioiu which he vinted ; and: denied hy orory inteiUigent man Ixvinf^ in tiie country. 'What I Oregon in this respect efual to Galifoamia, or the Valley of the Mimmfgk V I beg to ^piote fimn Mx^ ftenham, who vinted this aMmatoAf the fbllowmg passage. Allu- dingr toi the niisnicmBries» he soys, " their object in setding in Orq;on, I understood to be two&ld — the one> and principal> to civilise and christianise the Indians — the other, and not less important, the establidunent of reUgfious and literary inatitutioru, fbr the ben^ qf the white emignmtt. Their plan of operation on the Indians, is to learn their yarious languages, fbr the purposes of itinerant preaching, and of teaching the young the English. language. The scholars are also instructed in agriculture, the regulations of a well-established household, readings writing, arithmetic, - and geography." Then it appears> these missionaries were encou- raged to settle in the country, in order that they may open the way, and hold out inducements, for an influx of emigrants firom the States. No doubt their published prospectus of benefits to come is highly imposing ; and their promised zeal and e£B- ciency are very great, until they come to be tested : wmt n I i ■■ H- 188 bat tbe following passage brings idown their dis- interestedness, as disseminators of religion, and their prosperity as an agricultural community, to a low standard. "Th^ have many hundred acres of land under, the plough ; and cultivated chiefly by the native pu- pils. They have more than a hundred head of homed cattle ; thirty or forty horses ; and many swine. They have granaries filled with wheat, oats, barley, and peas ; and cellars well stored with vege- tables." This shows, that from thdr using the native pupUe as labourers, they did not mean to dispense their blessings without receiving a little consideration — that they are not altogether spiritual in their mo- tives, 'and mode of life : and. their many hundred acres of land under the plough; their maximum stock of homed cattle ; and thirty or forty horses, are no great signs of their rising greatness ; especially when it is considered that they have been now located for many years in the.country ; i^rnd had, as Mr. Wilkes — the organ of the federal government — assures us, "many advantages'' — ^which means, that they received all American support, especially from the funds of the missionary society of Boston,, in order to effect American purposes. 189 It is well worth while to quote here Mr. Wilkes. Under the general head of "Missionaries" (and he indeed weighs in the balance the entire class — ^not those of the Wallamette settlement alone, but those too scattered about in other localities), he says, " Little has as yet been effected by them in christianising the natives. They are principally engaged in the cultivation of the mission farms, and in the care of their own stock; in order to obtoin flocks and herds for themselves. As far as my observation went, in the parts of the country where the missionaries reside, there are few Indians to engage their attention; and they seemed more occupied with the settlement of the country, and in agricultural pursuits, than in missionary labours." Every word of this is undeniably true : and not the least remarkable and important part of the statement is the accident (query, fortuitous?) of their having selected localities for residence, where they had no spiritual flocks to tend. But though they have not as yet thriven as well as Mr. Wilkes expected, yet Mr. Famham, in the follow- ing paragraph^ threatens the execution of great pro- jects; and holds out the hope that they will, by and by, erect a community, with all the concomitant insti- tutions, worthy of the mother republic. It is true, the ""^WT^^^B^fWI^^flP 190 ; ' (■ 4 ) paragrapb, JBrom its hotat and uagniloqaeiKce, will appear to sober Englishmenj ridiculous; but it is quite characteristic ; and is well calculated to foster the pleasing and roluntaiy delusion of American ▼anitf— the purpose for whidi it was designed.. ''A site had been already selected for an aea- detmcctl building. A court of Jiutice had been or- ganised hy the popidar voice. A military corps was about to be formed fbr the protection of settlers-— and other measures were in progress : at once show- ing that the American, with his characteristic energy and enterprise ; and the pUlanthropist, with his holy aspirations for the improvement of the hu- man condition — had crossed the snowy barrier of the mountain; to mingle with the dashing waves of the Pacific seas, the sweet music of a busy and virtuous civilisation "!! 1 He then gives a sketch of the plucky patriotism of the settlers : — " During my stay here, several American citizens called on me, to talk of their father-land; and enquire as to the probabiHfy that its laws would be extended over them. The constantly-repeated enquiries were, * why are we left without protection in this part of our country's dominion ? — ^why are Jbreiffners to domineer over American citizens-*- ^^II*W»^ 191 driv« tlieir traders from the countxy — ^and make us 88 dependant on them for ihe clothes we wear, as theur own apprenticed »laveaf* I could return no answer to these questions, exculpatory of this na- tkmal delinquency; and therefore advised them to embody thar grievances in a petition to Congress. They had a meeting for that purpose: and after- wards put into my hand a petition, signed by riofty- seven dtizens of the United States, and persona, denroua of becoming each — the substance of which was a description of the country— their unpro- tected situation — and, in conclurion, a prayer that the Eederal government would extend over them the protection and institutions of the republic. Five or six i;|iijmiW juiwiiiiii I i„j.,|i,ijiu! ijui||||ppi(ip^jpi|pip|p|qpr;||p|ppifv> mmmm i ■K 1 194 priest, who effected much for his congregation, and the Methodist missionaries, who effected but little. But Mr. Famham is somewhat inconsistent with himself; as men generally are who become parti- eans—ftake a distorted view of things — and labour only to cany a point, and bespatter their adver- saries. After his elaborate eulogy of the noble ob- jects and successful labours of the missionaries, in improving the moral condition of the natives; and after holding forth glowing prospects of the rising greatness of the settlement, — ^in as much as they had abready selectsd a site for an academical building — organised a court of justice — were about to form a military corps, for the protection of the settlers; and after his talking ^o poetically, about the American enterpriser and philanthropist mingling the dashing waves of the Pacific seas with the sweet music of busy, and virtuous civilisation. After fdl this, he descends rather awkwardly and suddenly firom his high position, and, in plain terms, says: — "The civil condition of the territory being such as virtually to prohibit the emigration, to any ex- tent, of useful and desirable citizens, they have nothing to anticrpate from any considerable increase of their numbers, nor any amelioration of their 1 ppqn and 196 state to look for, from the acceasiou of female society* la the desperation incident to their lonely lot, they take wives from the Indian tribes around them." Then if there is likely to be no extensive emi- gration of wefal and derivable citizens, there can- not be much of the sweet music of a busy and virtuous cmlisation, and no great need of academu cal buildings, and a military corps for the pro- tection of settlers; though there may be for a court of justiccy as the settlers, it would appear, from the absence of useful and desirable citizens, must be a class among whom such an establish- ment would be desirable. The present settlers are useful and desirable citizens, or they are not. If they are, why may there : lOt be an accession to their numbers from the States ? If they are not, what is the use of the boasted missionaries? Why do not these men labour to render them useful and moral? He farther says, '' The reader will find it difficult to learn any sufficient reasons for their being left without the institutions of civilised society \" Now there are the institutions of British society, and laws in fiill force, in the country ; and of which they have the benefit and protection. But as we - •»«'WW.'w««i««wt.tw.^.t-- 196 were before told that the officers and other em- ployees of the Hudson's Bay Company were "ap- prenticed slaves/' so now it is not surprising that BrUith institutions should be denied to be those of civiliied society. But the crovning hardship of the American citi- zens in Oregon, it seems, is that they must pay their debts incurred to the British, and are liable to punishment for the commission of crimes. He says, "Their condition is truly deplorable. They are liable to be arrested for debt or crime, ; and conveyed to the jails of Canada. For in that case the business of British subjects is interfered with, who, by way of retaliation, will withhold the supplies of clothing, household goods, &c., which the settlers have no other means of obtaining." This certainly is a cool mode of claiming a license for the free citizens to cheat, and injure their neighbours with impunity. So forsooth, it is but a mere interference with the business of British subjects to rob them; and it is a great hardship if the British withhold supplies from the Americans when they refuse to pay them. Had any English- man said, or written, that this was the opinion of the Americans in Oregon, or out of it, he would be de- nounced as a prejudiced misrepresenter. But here the 197 opinion ii broadly avowed, by the organ of the de- mocratic and dominant party ir the United States. It is necessary to mention t^/o rivers to the south of the Wallamette, which flow through the same fertile and picturesque section of the country, as the Wallamette does (that section which is encircled by the Columbia ridge of hills on the north — by the ridge which runs along the shores of the Pacific on the west — by the towering Klamet range on the south — and by the southern links of the Presi- dent's range, on the east). These rivers are the Urn- qua and Klamet. The Umqua runs into the Pacific in nearly a westerly direction, from its source in the Presi- dent's range ; and is lined for about 100 miles by precipitous and rocky banKs, covered with woods. It is nearly a mile wide at its mouth; and about three fathoms deep. The tide runs up about thirty miles ; and is then checked by rapids and cataracts, which are to be found, even when the lower cataracts are passed, up the course of the river to its moun- tain source. Its entire length is about 170 miles. Perhaps, on the face of the earth, there are not larger specimens of the pine tree than can be found here. Some of these trees are 250 feet high, and 50 feet in girth. The seed vessels, 108 which are oval, are often more than a foot long, and the seeds are as large as a castor bean. I hate seen some of these seeds brought to the fort that, from my observation of the many petty things ex- hibited in the British Museum as curiosities, would, if exhibited there, be considered absolute wondert. I ought to say, that the largest pine trees do not yield the hardest, closest, and most valuable wood for use. Cedar trees there are often twenty-six feet in girth, and high in proportion : and the gardens attached to the company's fort produce turnips, often five pounds in weight each. Indeed, the natural capabilities of the soil are surprising. The Klamet, further south, runs nearly due west from the President's range into the Pacific, about fifty miles south of the Umqua; after a course of about 150 nules. This is the most southerly river of any note in the whole region ; and the one that may be called the inland water-boundary, on the south-west, between Oregon and California. Two peculiarities of the country around, and near its banks, deser e notice. First, the face of the country is. less idulating ; and the country itself seems to rise hig, er in its agricultural and pastoral capabilities: and iccondly, the enormous pine and cedar trees gradi.Jly disappear; and groves of short 199 myrtle, whioh diffose » moat delicioui fragrance, line tbe banks, and beautifully dot the country. The company have a settlement near the mouth of the Umqua : and have there commenced forming establishments, which promise (considering the great fecundity of the soil, and the genial and salubrious character of the climate), if pushed on with the usual vigour and judgment exhibited in other es- .tablishments, farther to the north, where soil and climate have been comparatively unfavourable, to succeed amazingly. As Mr. Famham loses no opportunity of (to use an American phrase) p* Ming a slap at the Britishers in general, and the Hudson's Bay Company in par- ticular — although he ackuowledges the kind and hospitable entertainment which he received at Fort Vancouver, — hn treats his readers to the following accusation. Speaking of a Captain Young, an American, who. after failing in many trading specu- lations in the west of the continent, settled as a small farmer in Wallamette district, and whom he designates as the "excellent old captain," he says, " He related to me many incidents of his hardships, among which the most surprising was that the Hudson's Bay Company refused to sell him a shred of clothing ; and as there were no other traders in wm^ 200 the country he was compelled, during their pkasure^ to wear skins. A false report that he had been guilty of some dishonourable acts in California was the alleged cause for this treatment. But perhaps a better reason wotdd be that Mr. Young occasionally purchased beaver skins in the American territory." To assert a false fact is bad enough; but to fol- low it up by gratuitously hazarding a false opinion in support of it, is most reprehensible and un- justifiabV. The company, so long as this man con- ducted himself properly as a free trader, gave h;m every assistance. Of his alleged dishonourable con- duct in Califomia, and other places (though reports very much to his discredit were confidently circu- lated about him, and by his own countrymen, who had no inducement to accuse him falsely), the com- pany took no cognizance. They judged of him as they had experience of him. The company inter- dicted, all through their range of operations in the Oregon, tLe use of spirituous^ liquors, as an article of trade among the natives, from a knowledge of its injurious influence upon them ; or as an article of gensral use and luxury among their servants. Young, thinking a trade in spirits would be a good speculation, set up a distillery, and began to induce, not alone the natives, but the servants of 201 the company, to deal with him. When the com- pany expressed their disapproval of this and other proceedings, he commenced an agitating course among the settlers, and defied the company. The company then quietly left him to his own resources. As to the insinuation which Mr. Famham makes that the gravemen of his oflfence was his trading in American territory, as if Oregon was exclusively such, the reader can easily ^draw his own infer- ence : — it was intended to work a purpose in the States, 302 &: \\ CHAPTER XIIL General outline of the Oregon Territory. The natural limits of this extensive and important region, are strictly defined by aature. On the west, it is bounded, along its whole length, by the Pacific Ocean; and is indented by numerous bays and inlets— on the south, by the fertile country of Cali- fornia, and the Klamet range of hills, which are an offshoot from the rocky mountains, and run in a parallel of 42"— on the whole of the east line, by the main ridge of the towering Rocky MouDtains — and on the north, as the boundary between it and the Russian territories, by many spurs from the Rocky Mountains, and by a chain of lakes and rivers. The extent of the whole region in its widest sense, is about four times the area of Great Britain. It is remarkable, that all the rivers which flow through this territory, take their rise and are emptied within these limits : so that it may be said, 203 that it scarcely has aav natural communication with any other country. It extends from latitude 42° to that of 54° north. For beauty of scenery, salubrity of climate along the Pacific, and general adaptation for commerce, it can scarcely be surpassed by any country in the world. There are, too, in many places, great fertility of soil, and agricultural capabilities. The natural character of the whole country, is a succession of mountain ridges, and valleys, and plains : and though there are many fertile districts within it, especially towards the ocean ; yet it may be safely averred, that as a wholes it is not favour- able for agricultural cultivation. It is, in a word, chiefly valuable for trade; and for the advantages of the Columbia, and other maritime stations, to the north ; which secure for the possessors a command of the northern Pa- cific, and an easy way to China. Of this the Ame* ricans are fully aware ; and hence their extraordinary anxiety, and exertions to effect a lodgment there, Hence too their exaggerated claims — their misre- presentations — contemptible bluster) and impotent menaces. Though their writers and speakers have been for years deceiving, not alone the British public, but even their own ; by holding forth the country as a 204 new paradise, in the remote wilderness of the west, to which the Americans alone had an undisputed right, while it was wrongfully invaded by the " grasping and oppressive Britishers ;" and most criminally inciting the ignorant populace to raise a ferment throughout the whole confederation; in reference to the questioned — and indeed most ques- tionable — claim of the Americans to the territory; and inciting their countrymen to encounter almost incalculable privations and hazards, in order to fix settlements in the country: yet the knowing ones of them must have been ail-along sensible that it is valuable mainly for trade. As nature has given the country external bounda- ries, of mountain, sea, lake, and river : so it may be internally divided into three natural sections. First, the western section ; lying between the Pacific ocean, and Cascade mountains — sometimes called President's range. This range runs parallel with the coast, the whole length of the territory, from north to south, rising in many places in high peaks, from 12,000 to 16,000 feet above the level of the sea. Their distance from the coast varies from 120 to 150 miles. Second, the middle section, lying between the Cascade Mountains on the west, and the Blue 305 Mountain, range, on the east. The Blue Mountains are much broken and irregular in their course. Third, the Eastern Section, which extends from the zigzag line of the Blue Mountains to the chain of the Rocky Mountain. Though each division or section may be said to be separated from another, there are numerous communications between them by the large rivers, valleys, and passes. Thus, while the country is divided into parts, yet these parts are bound and consolidated by one vast belt of ex- ternal boundary. Mountains. — The Cascade range, as being that which bounds the western section of the country, and the most fertile and valuable section, is the most interesting and important range. Its northern termination may be taken from Mount Elias : it diverges thence eastward ; and winds afterwards southward, to the gulph of California ;. showings along its course, numerous lofty peaks; and, like most of the other mountains, strong signs of vol' canic action, at a remote period. The American writers and authors give many of these peaks the names of American presidents. Says Mr. Farnham, in his usual gasconading style, " All the principal peaks should bear the names of those distinguished men, whom the suffrages of the people that own mmmm m across the mountains; but they are not frequent. Fruit trees blossom early in April, in the neighbour- hood of Nasqually and Vancouver; and in the middle of May, peas are a foot high : and strawberries in full blossom : indeed, all fruits and vegetables are as early there as in England. The hills, though of great declivity, have a sward to their tops. Lieut. Wilkes says, that out of 106 days, seventy-six were fair, nineteen cloudy, and eleven rainy. The middle section is subject to droughts. Du- ring summer, the atmosphere is drier and warmer, and the winter colder, than in the western section : its extremes of heat and ecid being greater and more frequent. However, the air is pure and healthy ; the atmosphere, in summer, being cooled by the breezes that blow from the Pacific. 213 rftil- and and nber time, eavy. )und. they The from quent^ kibour- middle ries in areas ugh of Lieut. ix were The eastern section, whieh mns along the western base of the Rocky Mountains, and partly lies with- in their winding projections, is extremely variable in climate : all the changes incident to spring, sum- mer, autumn, and winter, being sometimes expe- rienced there in a single day. Soil.-^The soil of the western section varies from a deep black vegetable loam, to a light brown, loamy earth. The hills are generally basalt, stone, and slate. The surface is generally undulating, well watered, well wooded, and well adapted for agri- culture and pasturage. The timber consists of pine, fir, spruce, oaks (white and red), ash, arbutus, cedar, arbor-vitse, poplar, maple, willow, cherry, tew ; with underwoods of hazel and roses. All kinds of grain, wheat, rye, barley, oats, and peas, can be procured there in abundance. Various fruits, such as pears, apples, &c., succeed there admirably; and the dif- ferent vegetables produced in England yield there most abundant crops. The middle section, which is about 1000 feet above the level of the western, is not so well wooded or fertile; yet in the southern parts of it, where the missionaries have established settle- ments, they have raised excellent crops, and reared large stocks of cattle. Notwithstanding the occa- m 214 sional cold^ their cattle are not housed, nor is pro> vender laid in for them in any quantity, the country being sufficiently supplied with fodder in the natural hay that is everywhere abundant in the prairies, which the cattle prefer. The eastern section, from tlie coldness of the climate and comparative sterility of the soil, which is much impregnated with salts, is but little adapted for cultivation. No attempts at agriculture have been made there, except at Fort Hall. Here, by care, small grains and vegetables have been produced in sufficient quantity to supply the wauts of the post; and the cattle, notwithstanding the severity of the climate, are found to thrive well, and not to require housing in winter. At Nasqually, the Hudson's Bay Company have a farm which has been recently brought under cultivation. It yields fine crops of wheat, oats, po- tatoes, peas, &c. It is principally intended for a grazing and dairy farm. They have already 100 milch cows, and make butter, &c., to supply the Russians. They have also brought another farm under cultivation at the Cowlitze River, about thirty miles from the Columbia. Thi$ farm, in 1841, produced 7000 bushels of wheat. Xn this dis- trict several Canadians, and other British subjects, 215 have established themselves ; — work small farms of about fifty acres, and live very comfortably. The company have also other farms, at the different posts in the interior, all of which are well stocked; and the produce of the several farms is made a lu- crative article of trade (after supplying the wants of their servants) with the Russians. They have also introduced large herds and flocks from Califoruia; and thus they are gradually cultivating the country, and civilising the natives. Mr. Wilkes says, " In comparison with our own country, I would say, that the labour necessary in this territory to acquire wealth or subsistence is in the proportion of one to three ; or in other words, a man must work throughout the year three times as much in the United States to gain the like com- petency. The care of stock, which occupies so much time with us, requires no attention there ; and on the increase only a man might find support." He further says, "there will oealso a demand for the timber of this country, a« high prices, throughout the Pacific. The oak is well adapted for ship-timber, and abundance of ash, cedar, cypress, and arbor-vitse, may be had for other purposes, — ^building, fuel, fencinjr, &c." He also adds, " no part of the world affords finer inland sounds, or a greater number of ii ii.ii m m , S16 harbours, than are found within the Straits of Juan de Fuca^ capable of receiving the kurgest class of vessels, and without a danger in them which is not visible. From the rise and fall of the tides (eighteen feet) every facility is afforded for the erection of works for a great maritime nation. The country also affords as many sites for water power as any other." On the northern coast there are a number of islands, which belong to the territory. The largest are Vancouver Island, which is 260 miles long, and 50 broad, containing 15,000 square miles, and \ Queen Charlotte Island, which is 150 miles long, and 30 broad, containing 4000 square miles. The climate is mild and salubrious, and the soil well adapted to agriculture. They have also an abund- ance of fine fish in their waters. Coal, of a very good quality, is found there close by the surface ; and they also contain numerous veins of valuable minerals. All the rivers abound in salmon of the finesit quality, which run twice a'year, beginning in May and October, and appear inexhaustible. The Co- lumbia produces the largest. The great fishery of this river is at the Dalles. The last one, on the northern branch of the Columbia, is near Colville, at the Kettle Falls; though salmon arc Tound above •Pi 217 » p% this both in the river and in its tributaries. In Frazer's River the salmon are very numerous. The bays and inlets abound with several kinds of salmon, sturgeon, cod, carp, sole, flounders, perch, herring, and eels; also with shell fish — crabs, oysters, &c. Whales and sea otter in numbers are found along the coast, and are frequently captured by the Indians in and at the mouth of the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Game abounds in the western section, such as elk, deer, antelopes, bears, wolves, foxes, musk-rats, mar- tins. And in the spring and fall the rivers are covered with geese, ducks, and other water fowl. Towards the Roi:ky Mountains buffaloes are found in great numbers. From the advantages this country possesses it bids fair to have an extensive commerce, on advantageous t'jrras, with most parts of the Pacific. It is well cal(:ulni;)d to produce the following staple commodi» tiep-rurs, salted beef and pork, fish, grain, flour, wco), iiides, tallow, timber, and coals j and, in re^ turn ^'j\: these — sugars, coffbe, and other tropical productions, may be obtained at the Sandwich Islands. Advantages that, in time, must become of immense extent. '•Ti !i u f ^IIIHIUVW . 218 CHAPTER XIV. Astoria, or Fort George. As the Ameri . have vaunted much about this settlement at the mouth of the Columbia, I shall give its history briefly. Astoria, (now Fort G«orge,) was founded in 1811 by Mr. Astor. This gentleman was a German, bom near Heidelberg, on the banks of the Rhine. His parents were humble agriculturalists. He quitted his native village ; and after residing some time in London, went, as an adventurpt, to the United States. There he met a countryman of his, who had some knowledge of the fur trade ; and by his recommendation he was induced to embark in this species of commercial enterprise. From small beginnings, he gradually rose to considerable im- portance as a fur trader; and became a bold and active speculator. It is unnecessary to detail the stages of his gradual progress and success ; but in 1809 he obtained (after several ineffectual attempts 219 had been made by the Americans, to secure a mo- nopoly of this North- American trade) a charter from the legislature of the State of New York, incorpo- rating a company, under the name of " The Ameri- can Fur Company." He himself, however — accor- ding to his biographer, Washington Irving — in fact, constituted the company; for though he had a board of directors, they were merely nominal. In 1811, he founded a settlement near the mouth of the river, which Wvi called Astoria: his object being, according to Washington Irving, "to carry the fur trade across the Rocky Mountains, and sweep the Pacific." At this time, he became natu- ralised; and was a citizen, from whose patriotism, energy, and skill, much was expected for the asser- tion of American rights, and the promotion of American commerce. Mr. Astor's plans were certainly well conceived, for extending the trade inland by a line of stationary posts, and rambling parties, from the mouth of the Columbia to the confines of the United States ; and coastwise, from California to the Pole — ^in brief, of monopolising the traffic of the whole northern con- tinent. One part of his plan was, that a vessel laden with goods for the Indian trade, should every year tml from New York to the Columbia ; and, hav- J n mm 220 ing discharged her cargo at the establishment there, take on board the produce of her year's trade ; and thence proceed to Canton, bringing back the rich productions of China. Other ships were to be des- tined for New York anci London ; as no doubt was entertained, that all tlie British fur trading com- panies would be soon lilown into thin air by this gigantic American proje<^ ; and by the superior en- terprise, skill, and integrity, of the free citizens ! Another part of the plan, Mr. Irving thus des- cribes: — "As in extending the American trade along the coast to the northward, it might come into the vicinity of the Hussian Fur Company, and produce a hostile rivalry ; it was part of the plan of Mr. Astor, to conciliate the good-will of that com- pany, by the most amicable and beneficial arrange- ments. The Bvfisian establishment was chiefly dependent for its supplies, on transient trading vessels from the United S tates. These vessels were often, however, of more hann than advantage. Being owned by private adventurers, or casual voyagers, who cared only for present profit, and had no inter- est in the permanent prosperity of the trade, they were reckless in their dealings with the natives, and made tw scruple of supply; ing them with fire-arms. The Russian government had made representations 221 { to that of the United States, of these mal -practices on the part of its citizens : hut as they did not in- fringe any municipal law, our government could not interfere." It is not necessary for me to fix attention here to the testimony borne by a reputable and patriotic, though reluctant, witness, to the infamous mode of conducting business, adopted by the American^, at least in^those regions ; or to the curious fact, that a despotic and semi-barbarous government should have been constrained to make a remonstrance to a professedly free, and boastedly enlightened, govern- ment, on the infraction by its citizens of the com- mon principles of humane, honest, and liberal dealing. When the establishment was once founded, and the company was in working order, the most extra- vagant reports were circulated, about the wealth to be found in Columbia by the new adventurers : not a moment, it was said, was to be lost ; and conse- quently, many were lured to the enterprise. The first ship chartered by this company was the Tonquin, which sailed from New York in September, 1810, commanded by Captain Thorn. There were on board a few British subjects, going out to join the company. But so inveterate was the anti-British ./! m 222 \l spirit of the captain, that he treated them with eveiy indignity ; which led to constant quarrels during the voyage. On arriving at the Falkland Islands, some of the British went on shore. The captain, seeing this, gave orders to sail off ; deter- mined to leave them to perish. But a Mr. Bx)bert Stuart, nephew of one of those gentlemen, who luckily remained on board, brought the citizen cap- tain to a sense of humanity and justice, by holding a brace of pistols to his head, and threatening to blow out his brains, unless he took his uncle and his party on board. • On arriving at the mouth of the Columbia, on the 23rA of the following March, the captain, against all remonstrance, as it blew a stiff breeze, sent the chief mate and four men to sound the channel. These all perished. The captain, on the 25th, des- patched one of the officers, accompanied by four men, in the jolly boat, to sound again. This boat was also wrecked ; but two of the crew escaped mi- r.iculously. At last the shi^, with great difficulty, '.foa worked into Baker's Bay. In July, she was despatched on a coasting and trading excursion northward. Having anchored opposite Newettee, in the vicinity of Nootka, they commenced a brisk trade with the natives. But the captain, by show- ■n^ 223 ing a tyrannical disposition, and inflicting chastise- ment on one or two of the principal Indians, for some trifling offence, their hostility and revenge became excited. The captain was warned, by his interpreter, and others, of the imprudence and dan- ger of his conduct : but he spurned all advice, and did not relax from his stern conduct. In a day or two the natives, with a show of friend- ship, renewed the trade ; and went on board in great numbers, carrying large quantities of furs; and wearing short fur-skin cloaks, contrary to their usual custom. He was again warned of danger; and he again rejected all advice — expressing his con- tempt of any attack made by half-naked savages against such a bold crew as his ; who had plenty of cutlasses and fire-arms, ranged beUm deck. But he soon found that hii arbitrary self-confidence was imprudent ; and that arms ready for use above deck were better than when stowed away beUnv. The Indians began, from their growing crowds, and their conduct on board, to become troublesome: and he ordered the deck to be speedily cleared. Then a loud whoop was raised ; and from beneath every short cloak was suddenly snatched some formidable weapon ; and, before the arms could be procured frx)m below, the captain aud the crew were slaughtered on deck. 224 : . ■ >.' with the exception of three, lliese three contrived to escape from the ship in a boat, during the mel^ —having previously set a train to the powder store. Soon after th^ quitted the ship, she blew up ; and above 200 of the principal savages perished with her. In the consternation produced by the explo- sion, among the crews of the numerous boats sta- tioned around the ship^ they were enabled to reach shore; but being prevented, by the state of the weather, from getting into the ocean, they were compelled to try an overland journey to Astoria, i However, in a couple of days they were all cap- tured, and slaughtered. While these sad tidings reached the fort from the Pacific, other news of misadventure reached it from the interior. Their parties having been attacked by the Indians, failed in either establishirg settlements, or securing a profitable trade. Though Mr. Astor had a good head, and spirit for projecting boldly and ex- tensively, he either did not adopt, or could not adopt, the means of 'securing an effecuve enginery to work out his large and complex plans. In short, to use a vulgar, though very expressive designation, his in- struments were " a rum lot" The rise of his Oregon speculation was marked by misconduct and disaster ; and its fall was equally inglorious. 225 This company next chartered a ship, which had been sent out from America the following year, "the Beaver," freighted with a rich cargo of fiirs, and other valuablecomm^dities — the produce of thecountry — for China ; neither expense nor pains having been spared to equip her so as to make a favourable impression on the Chinese. The company hugged the sanguine hope that they had laid the foundation of a perma- nent and lucrative trade with that people, and would soon, by spreading the sphere of their operations and settlements along the Pacific, outrival the British in that market. But their high-blown expectations were dashed all at once : for the disastrous intelli- gence arrived that war had been declared between Great Britain and America, and that the British had blocked up the Beaver in the port of Canton ; nay, more, that they had blocked up every foreign port against the Americans. The desperate state of their affairs was now evident. They could hope for no succour by sea — all expectation of return of profits by "the Beaver," to which they mainly trusted, was at an end. They had no communica- tion with their fellow-countrymen overland; and even if they had, the delay in announcing their con- dition and receiving back supplies would be too great ; their own resources were fast wasting away : •1 ■■■ 226 ;', but, above all, as the British flag had swept every sea — occupied every port — and penetrated every in< let, they were in daily apprehension of the arrival of a British force to capture and demolish their settlement, and seize on their persons and property. Their apprehensions were well grounded; for the British government considered them as enemies, and despatched a ship of war to take possession of Astoria. But they anticipated such a visit, and, be- fore the arrival of ^be ship^ had sold their establish- ment, whole stock in trade, implements, &c., to the North-west Company ; some of the members having enlisted in the service of this company, most of the rebt having returned to the States. Thus the set- tlement was entirely broken up ; and the only duty the commander had to perform on his arrival, was to change the name of Astoria into that of Fort George. ¥ 237 CHAPTER XV. Extension of the British to the north of the month of the Golumbift— Contrast between the Britifih and Ameri* can mode of trading — Cape Flattery — Native tribes— The country — Settlements at Nasqually and Cowlitze — Fraser's River. The extension of the company's trade northward, along the line of coast from Cape Flattery, and their establishment of a chain of trading stations, coast wise and inland, became the necessary conse- quence of their mercantile importance, enterprise, and rivalry with the few American traders who hovered on those seas, and who, by introducing a sort of buccaneering commerce with the natives, tended much to the demoralisation of the people, and tended but little, eventually, to the profit of the Americans themselves. These trading stations, therefore, were not established more for the objects of trade, than they were for the purposes of civilisa- tion; and while they have fully effected the first purpose, they are gradually and surely effecting the 228 > ing out of bare rocks. The natives of this island amount in number to upwards of 5000. Their houses are large, and are thus constructed. Im- mense logs are driven into the ground with large rafters, for the roof, placed in a slanting .direction. The roof is covered with immense cedar boards, split from cedar trees with wooden wedges made from knots of trees, and the sides are of cedar likewise, with curious figures, resembling men and animals, fantastically painted on them. Some of the principal houses will accommodate from two to three hun- dred people. The chiefs often, in the winter months, giTn leasts to their people. The food consists of dog, seal, and whale blubber, with berries, &c IP 244 V. 1 They mauufacture blankets made from the inside bark of the cedar tree. This is soaked in water for several days, then beaten between two pieces of bone. They set the thigh bone of a deer, or a bone of similar size and stren^h, firmly, in a horizontal po- sition, in a stand ; on this they lay a large piece of bark, and keep beating it until it becomes soft like hemp. It is then woven together, and dyed with various figures upon it. They make their dye from roots. The blanket takes two women ten days to complete. Gulls are very numerous about this place, as there are several rocky islets. Three or four of these lying near the north end of the island are called Scotf s Islands. By going on shore in the months of June and July, in a short time bushels of eggs may be gathered on them. Nootka Sound is to the west side of Vancouver's Island, in the 49° of latitude. The company's ves- sels seldom visit this place for traffic, as there is now scarcely anv fur to be found there. The land is high and Vi^oody, principaUy coyered with large pines. And the natives resemble the more southern tribes in their customs, and general character. At Millbank Sound, in June, 1883, the company commenced building a fort, and were assisted by the crews of the vessels Dryad and Lama, the former 245 /■ commanded by Captain Kipling, the latter by Captain M'Neil. The land department wfus superintended by Mr. Donald Manson, assisted by a Mr. Anderson and myself; Mr. Anderson superintending the men. I had charge of the Indian department ; and with a complement of between forty and fiffcy CanaiLans and Scotchmen set actively to work. The point pitched upon was a bay about twenty miles up the sound, in latitude 52° 6'. When the men first went on shore, it was like entering an impenetrable forest. They had not been there long before the trees began to fall, and in a few days a large open space showed itself. ^ place was soon cleared for tents to be pitched; and in the course of a month or two sufficient ground was cleared for the erection of the pickets, or posts, which are eighteen feet high, placed close together, for the in- closure of the fort. These answer instead of brick- work. As soon as the enclosure was finished, we despatched the brig Dryad to the southward, the Lama having previously left. During the Dryads stay with us, our men nearly came to battle with the Indians. One of the sailors cutting wood, on shore, had his axe stolen; and to obtain it, another of the men took a blanket from an Indian. This exasperated the natives i W 246 1 1 i 1- mid they gave their signal. The Indians then be- gan to muster from all. quarters, furnished with fire- arms, knives, and axes ; some of them taking position amongst the trees — others on the beach. Our land party being exposed to them, Mr. Manson thought it prudent to come to a parley > and hostilities ceased. After the Dryad left, we pursued our work r the building of the fort progressed with great vigour; and during its erection, we pushed on a brisk trade in furs. I was appointed to the post <^ trader, acting under Mr. Manson, as governor of the fort. My instructions were to lower the price of skins; give in payment useful, substantial, and lasting articles ; and endeavour to do away, if pos- sible, with the injurious and degrading article of spirits, as a medium of barter: as the American vessels had previously been here, and bad given immense prices, and sold spirits, so that the company's vessels should be debarred from the whole trade. This exasperated the Indians against me ; and they gave me the name of " Shhapea" i. e., '* stingy :" and when near them, if I should spit, they would run and try to take up the spittle in something ; for, according as they afterwards informed me, they iutcnded to give it to their doctor or magician ; and 247 he would charm my life away. But they were much disappointed to find me there for sixteen months afterwards. Everything went on favourably until the month of October; when^ to our surprise, one of our men deserted and joined these savages. He was a Canadian. And, as we were given to under- stand that he was with one of the tribes in the neighbourhood of the fort, called " Eyete's tribe ;" (Kyete being the chief's name— but] nicknamed by an American captain, Boston;) we sent for this chief: but previous, however, to this, we offered to give them blankets, ammunition, and other arti- cles, if they would bring him back; but to no purpose. We, therefore, knowing the value the natives set on their chief, detained him in the fort, thinking this would induce them to come to terms: and we informed them unless our man was given up, we should send their chief to the governor at Van- couver. During this time we were living in the enclosure, which was not farther than ten feet from an impenetrable wood, in boarded, temporary houses and tents. The bastions were built ; but we had not our big guns properly placed. Having so many men in the fort, our water became scarce ; and to I 1 Ml 248 I get more wo were obliged to go 120 yards from the barrier. On a particular day, seeing no Indians about, we proposed to allow some of the men to go out with buckets to get water. Mr. Anderson and myself went outside to see after them, while Mr. Manson kept a look out within the enclosure, from a high temporary watch tower. We had not been out many minutes, when, looking around the bay, and on a point of land about a quarts of a mile to the souths ward, we perceived a fire.. At that instant several In- dians rose up — gave the war whoop, and tho fort wa» then surrounded with hundreds of these savages, — some armed with knives, others with guns and axes. Mr. Manson cried out to arms. Mr. Anderson and myself rushed as fast as possible to the fort, and then to the bastions ; from whence we commenced firing, along with the men that remained in the fort. This threw the Indians into confusion, and made them retreat, with some loss of life, into the woods. The whole of our outside men escaped unhurt into the fort, with the exception of two> One of these was a half-breed, who was surrounded by eight Indians. He was cut in the shoulder se- verely by an axe aimed at his head ; after this bbw mmm win^M^^^ 249 he managed to wrest the axe from the Indian, and keep his assailants at bay; but another Indian coming up with a gun, was in the act of shooting him, when Mr. Anderson rushed to the fort gate, and, with his rifle, shot the Indian. The others de- camped, and the half-breed made his way into the fort. The other, a Canadian, had, before the disturb- ance, fallen down, with an axe in his hand, which had injured him. This man they took prisoner ; drag- ging him, face downwards, to the water-side, and placed him, tied hands and feet, in a canoe; it being that night their full intention, had we not had their chief in custody, to have burnt him. During the night they kept up a continual whoop and firing of guns ; but kept a long distance from the fort, fearing we should get our big guns to bear upon them. Having this poor fellow in their posses- ion all night, they brought him in the mcuniing under the fort, and announced a desire to speak to us : and finding their chief was safe, said if we would give their chief freedom they would return our man. The deserter they persisted they knew nothing of. Finding we could not get back the deserter, we proposed to give them their chief, provided our man, whom they had taken prisoner, was returned ; and likewise we proposed that they should give us two kV 250 inferior chiefs as hostages. This was done for a guarantee, to prei; ting or fishing excursions, on pain of death. Should any unlucky Indian even meet this compound of chief and priest in his excursions, he is sure to be put to 'death; either by the chief himself, for he must be periHtly passive in the infuriated chiefs hands ; or, should the chief in his abstracted mood not attack him, he must, on his return to the tribe, acknowledge the guilt, and resign himself a Tolnn- tary victim. Should he conceal the fact of his meet<- ing the chief, and should the chief, on his return, charge him with the fi*ct, then he would undergo the most shocking torture. T^e duration of the chiefs absence on this mission is irregular — at least it is long enough to exhaust his small stock of food, even with the utmost economy. It is often three weeks. When hunger pinches him (and he gene- rally selects the most desert and dreary region, destitute of esculent fruits or roots) his imagination bcicomes inflamed ; and what was before religion or superstition, becomes now frenzy ; r'nring which the fancied interview with the Great Spirit occurs. He returns at last to the village, the most hideous ob- ject in nature, with matted hair, shrunken cheeks, blood shot eyes, and parched lips — liis blanket, which is his sole covering, all hanging in shreds 257 about him, torn by boughs and brambles — his face iii\ begrimed with filth ; animated with all the unnatural ferocity of a demoniac. His return is by night, and as uncertain as his departure. He does not first arrive, generally, at his own house : but rushes to some other, according to the blind caprice of his wildness; and instead of entering it by the door, he ascends the roof — tears off one of the cedar-board coverings, end plunges down into the centre of the family circle ; he then springs on one of the full grown inmates, like a famished wolf — wrenches with hi teeth a mouth- ful of his flesh, from his limbs or body, which he convulsively bolts down, without any process of mastication, but barely chopping the lump once or twice for the purpose of easier deglutition. No re- sistance is made, for the sufferer thinks that he has been ordered by the Great Spirit to yield up a part of his flesh and blood, as a sort of peace or sin of- fering to the priest. The chief then rushes to another house in the same way, and makes the same hurried repast. He continues this process along other houses ; until, in a few hours, he becomes ex- hausted, from the quantity of human living flesh that he has devoured. He is then taken home in a state of torpor ; and thus remains, like an over- i I (| ^ I 258 golfed beast of prey, for a couple of days. After his resuscitation he is languid and sickly ; and, as he must not partake of the usual food for a certain time after he has got his fill of the human sacrifice, he goes on but slowly to convalescence. I have been, more than oxice, in close connexion with one of these chiefs^ after his restoration ; and his breath was like an exhalation &om a grave. The wounds inflicted by his iMte, though held as sacred trophies, often proved mortal. Their mode of cure is this : — ^They apply eagle-down as a stiptic to check the hemorrhage ; and then apply a plaster, made of pine-tree gum. Several of the wounded and consecrated persons, after we establii^ed our fort, finding their own mode of treatment ineffectual, came to our surgeon (applying to me first, as inter- preter) to have their rankling sores healed. They used to present a most hideous appearance ; being jagged and torn, and often showing the clear inden- tations of the human teeth ; and besides the fetor issuing from them was most noxious. The daughter of one of the cliiefs (who practised this abomina- tion), the wife of one of our men, told me that her lather, on his return to the village, after his sojourn in the woods and mountains, met an Indian, on wliom he flew, and whose side he continued to bite 259 and devour until his bowels protruded. The Indian made no resistance; and, when the chief ran off, he crawled to the village ; and though every effort was made to heal his wounds, they were found to be too mortal for human remedy. He died soon' afterwards, in their idea, a consecrated person. So much importance and pride do these Indians attach to these lacerations, that the youngsters, who have not had the good fortune to be thus scarred, apply lighted gunpowd^ to their limbs; and use other means to produce a holy gash. An American vessel, some years previous to our visiting this place, was attacked by the natives, and part of the crew, as well as the captain, killed. About eight o'clock in the morning the vessel was boarded by some of the chiefs ; and numerous In- dians mustered round the vessel in canoes showing quantities of furs. Most of the sailors were up aloft^ loosing the auki to be aired. The chiefs called the captain to the gangway to look at thefurs ; and while he was in the act of looking at them, one chief on each side of him plunged a knife in his side, after that they pitched him overboard. The women in the CMHM» cut him to pieces with their sharp paddles, when he rose to the surface. The natives, on this signal, rushed on deck, and a terrible conflict ensued. ^ 'I 260 ll IS After many of the crew were slaughtered, with a great number of the savages, the remaining sailors contrived to slip the anchor and sail off to the north- ward. They were picked up, in a very crippled state, by another American ship, who afforded them every assistance, and enabled them to reach Boston. I often mentioned this shocking occurrence to the natives, with the object of sounding their dis- positions and feelings. The general tenour of their remarks showed me that they regretted it as an im- prudent act, which would recoil on themselves, by awakening the apprehensions of the white men, and urging them to a more guarded, and less liberal mode of dealing ;>-«that they considered it, in the abstract, cruel and treacherous; but then they used to palliate the act by strong insinuations that, as the class of white men to whom the ship belonged, had no great sympathy with them ; and indeed showed every disposition to cheat and harass them, there ought not to be raised such an outcry about the matter ; for sooner or later they should be obliged to fight in their own defence ; and that they then thought a favourable opportunity should not be lost. Kyete, the chief who gave the captain his mortal blow on deck, often told me, that plunder was not their ex- clusive object ; but that he was induced, in a fit of 261 rage, to strike the captain, when he found him ex- hibiting a dishonest and domineering disposition. He regretted, he said, the occurrence deeply; and it would never have occurred, he was sure, if the ship belonged to the great company ; for the com- pany would not wish to rob the Indians, as the captain intended. And he used to appeal to me, whether I did not think, that, from the conduct of the tribe to us, our whole crew would be safe (even if the ship were left unguarded to swing at anchor) before one of his remote villages. I used to give him a reply of general consolation and civility, without ex- pressing any decided opinion on the matter. I cer- tainly had no fear of a similar attack, for three good reasons : we were too much on the alert ; we dealt liberally and honestly with them ; and the generally believed power of the company was a tower of strength. I often conversed with these people on the cardinal points of religion ; and they always seemed glad to hear the subject. They used to say, we know the Great; Spirit is good, and that he made us and the world j — that the evil spirit is bad, and has hoofs and horns; and that the bad will be punished hereafter. 262 CHAPTER XVI. Fort M'Loughlin — Voyage from it all along the intricate inlets or canals — Various tribes — their- appearance, and customs. Fort M'Loughlin is about 120 yards square, having two bastions standing at right angles ; in each of tliese are four nine-pound guns, with a quantity of small arms, ready for action. It is surrounded with pickets; i. e., trees, cut eighteen feet long, where no branches have run out, and about twenty-four inches in circumference. These pickets are mortised into a large square log placed firmly in the earth. The pickets are placed so close to- gether that they cannot even be seen through. There are double gates at ♦he -entrance, with a small wicket gate in them. At the top of the pick- ets there is another large log, into which the pickets »re mortised, and at the top are placed long spikes. Inside the fort, round the pickets, and about four feet and \ half from the top, is a gal- 263 lery run round the fort. Here a watchman is con- tinually kept on the look out, and a one-pound swivel placed over the gate : this protects the gate- way. On the inside of the gate, on entering the fort, stands the Indian hall. A certain number of Indians are only allowed to enter for trade at a time ; this hall is intended for them to wait in until they trade. Another man is constantly kept at the gate to let the Indians in and out. Adjoining the hall are the trader's house, and a house for the officer in charge of the men. On the left, on entering the fort, is the Indian shop and store, for the Indians to trade, and the trader's outfit. Adjoining this is a place for holding provisions traded from the na- tives, such as deer, hallibut, salmon, and wild fowl. On the right hand side of the fort is a long build- ing, divided into rooms, for the men. At the end of this is a very neat house, part of which is con- verted into a mess-room. At the further end of the fort, fronting the entrance, is Mr. Mansou's house, divided into several rooms, all of which cire very ueat and compact. On the left of the fort is a long warehouse for the reception of the general outfit which is sent once a year, by a vessel, from Van- couver. There are other small buildings, such as the blacksmith's shop, ai^d carpenter's shop, nud 264 the kitchen, to which are attached the cook's and steward's rooms. The Indians are all kept near the gate and Indian hall ; they are not allowed to enter the fort square, with the exception of the chiefs. These are sometimes allowed to visit the governor's house; where they get some biscuit and molasses and a little weak spirits and water. The Indians generally behave themselves very well, when in- side the fort; but as they are much addicted to thieving (at which they are most expert), we kept a constant watch over them. But all our vigilance was often futile. I have known vessels when ly- ing in the neighbourhood of this place trading, to have been pilfered of both canister-shot and pow- der, taken out of the big guns. Having quitted Fort M'Loughlin in 1834, in the brig Dryad, I returned to the Columbia/ and was there stationed till the middle of 1836 ; having pas- sed some time at Fort Vancouver, and been sta- tioned at Fort George as superintendant. I then returned to Fort M*Loughlin, in the "Beaver" steamer, in the character of trader and interpreter, and was happy once more in the society of its first governor, — my old friend Mr. Manson, than whom, I must say, there is not in the company's service a more persevering, acute, zealous, and honourable, 265 and therefore efficient, trader ; — feared and trusted by the natives, and esteemed by the servants. I am happy, too, in saying that he has had his lot merited reward, in official promotion, and in the company's increased estimation of his excellent qualities. Dur- ing the interval between my departure and return, I found that Mr. Manson, although reduced to a short complement of men, had made many great im- provements at the settlement. A large tract of ground had been cleared round the fort, where po- tatoes, and other vegetables were growing. Several large buildings had been erected inside the fort. The bastions were all complete, with the large nine- pounders staring us in the face. And the Indians were brought to a quiet and weU-behaved course of conduct. No further disturbance had occurred in my absence. Chief factor Finlayson was on board the steamer with us, reconnoitring the coast ; Captain Home was commander, late of the East India service, Mr. Dodd chief officer. We had on board upwards of thirty hands. It was the intention of Mr. Finlayson, under whose instructions all our scheme of proceeding was to be conducted, to push on along the numerous and intricate inlets (that interlace the whole country) as 266 for as pocwible inland, in order to come as much within reach of the interior tribes as possible. There- fore we ran into their uttermost extremities, along almost the whole of the labyrinth ; stopping some- times to trade, and ascertain the capabilities of the country, and the character of the natives, who had never seen a large vessel (and especially a steamer) or a white man before. The country had the main characteristics of that about Millbank Sound. Some of the natives showed a flattened forehead, but not a compressed head. Indeed, generally, they are a well-featured and muscular race, but suspicious and rather treacherous. Along these inlets, many of which are the mouths of rivers, the tribes are clus- tered in villages, — especially towards the interior. At Fort M'Loughlin we took on board about twenty-six cord of wood, for fuel, which was ready cut for us ; this generally lasted us, when run- ning on, between three and four days. From here we ran inland, up different inlets, called canals, which run out of Fitzhugh's Sound, a little to the southward of Fort M'Loughlin. Up these canals we proceeded about a day's voyage. The laud along these canals is lofty, and covered with pine, ap- parently growing out of rocks. In some places these canals are clear running all through ; at 867 other places the navigation is occasionally ob- structed. About twelve at noon, on the second day, we reached a place called, by Vancouver, "Bentick's arms" — inhabited by a tribe of Indians — the BeUaghchoolas. Their village is near Salmon Biver; where Sir Alexander M'Kenzie came down from the inte- rior, during his survey, and, by observation, found he must be near the Pacific Ocean : and in case any vessel should run to this place to trade, he made a mark on a large rock ; which was partly dbtinguish- able when we wer<) there. He named this Salmon River, on account of the quantities of salmon he saw in it. Though we arrived in the salmon season, we could not prevail upon the natives to sell us one^ unless cooked by themselves; as they, as well as the Chinooks, and other tribes, fancy that cutting the salmon crossways " sends them away," and they will have none for their winter provisions. We traded numbers of furs from them, but nothing else. The land here is high ; as in other parts, entirely covered with trees — not a patch of clear land to be seen. We likewise visited another large tribe of Indians to the southward, up a canal running out of John- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^\ w wVw '/ & Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STRIEt WnSTH.N.Y. 145S0 (716)872-4903 fv S. •^ \ \ ^\ o^ K %" p«mp fmrnp 268 son's Straits, far into the main land. We took, from Milbank, an Indian, as interpreter. It took us, from the straits, a day and a half to reach its ex- tremity. The land along the shore was high and woody-MJompletely coTered with pine trees — ^not a patch of clear ground to be seen. The natives ap- peared to be milder-looking tribes than those nearer the ocean. It runs upwards of 100 miles inland, from Fort M'Loughlin, in a south-easterly direction. On running, with the steam-boat, up this canal as far as possible, on the second day, we came to a stop — the water became shallow ; and we anchored in a small bay. Several natives came to us in canoes, and told us the village was up a small river, and en- treated us to go thither . but our Indian interpreter wished us no^. However, the captain was anxious, and pressed me to accompany him ; to which I consented. We manned our whale boat; and we were well armed, No one had been up this place since Cap- tain Vancouver's boats were up here, surveying; and the Indians, after we had been there a little time, began to muster in great numbers. We put ourselves on our guard, and set a regular watch to mark their manoeuvres. The village we visited was up a small shallow river, about two miles long, with scarcely water i^iimiftmnp""'^ "•"■"^"iWPWIWiP^ 1-1 269 sufficient for our boat to go up. In this river, we fell in with two large canoes, on their way to the vessel. When we arrived within a quarter of a mile of the village, the Indians flocked from the bush in great numbers, on to the banks of the river, armed with guns, and bows, and arrows. Seeing our boat lull of men, and our musketoons fixed on the gunwale of the boat, they got an impression that we were com- ing to attack their village, and exhibited a hos^ tile spirit. They understood a little of the Mil- bank tongue. I therefore gave them to under- stand that we were peaceably inclined, and had only come to trade with them, and to visit their village. Having eleven men in the boat, the cap- tain, myself, and three men, went on shore to visit the houses; leaving six men in the boat, and giving them instructions to pull into the middle of the stream, and lie abreast of the village. The natives there appeared to be friendly towards us ; and made us presents of some skins and shells ; but expected something in return — which they got. They showed us different wooden idcls, some resembling the dog —and some, men. The village was very large, and enclosed with pickets, about eight feet high. This was to preserve the village from being attacked by the interior tribes. I saw, on a tree> a small coffin, V ■51" -p!" 270 with a covering over it, and a human image, cut out of wood, and painted. They informed me that this was the corpse of a child that had been killed By their enemies when attacking their fort^ some time before ; and they had placed it there with thn idol by its side, as a memorial of their cruelty in slaying an innocent. Quantities of berries and dried salmon were stowed away in their houses for winter. There could not be less than from 500 to 600 Indians belonging to this village. The women seemed to be much afraid of us, as were also the- children. I asked the reason; and was informed that it was the first time they had ever seen a white man in their lives. They seemed anxious to detain us at the village as long as possible : but our men informed us that the water was fast falling ; and that we should not, if we remained longer, be able to get back. I had no doubt that they wished to de- tain us, from some sinistei design, until the tide had ebbed, so as to bar our departure: and we rowed off. On our arrival at the ship, our interpreter in- formed us that some of the Indians had been there, and said we should never return again. He (the interpreter) 'had been — we were informed by Mr. Dodd, the chief officer — a long way up the rig- ging, with the spy-glass, anxiously looking out 271 for us. The officers, and likewise the men, were glad to see us heave in sight with the boat. The country up the river, as far as the village, appeared low, covered with berry bushes. Fine and alder appeared to be the principal wood. The in- terior, I have '^ot the slightest doubt, h a plain country. We 8' vnt our wood-cutters on shore at this place, and rei .ewed our stock of wood ; the Indians assist- ing in caorrying it to the beach, and bringing it along iide the vessel in their canoes ; for which we gave them some tobacco : and having procured what furs we could, we again run down the canal into Johnson's Straits — ^from thence along Fitzhughes' Sound 'to Fort M'Loughlin ; where we again took ia our complement of wood, and ran for the north- ward, after leaving Milbank Sound. The entrance of Milbank Sound is by low rocks, and a rising land, called Cape Swain, and lies in latitude 52° 13'; the north-west point of entrance is Point Day, off which lie several rocky, barren islets. In passing, numerous seals, sea elephants, and sea lions, with other monsters of the deep, can be seen lying, when the sun is out, basking on the rocks. The Indians at the Milbank Sound, called Belbel- 9, are very ingenious and imitative. They '. il'l.' i|!WlWW^"'.'l''. H'l'Mnn j,iipijp«imi»P)pp ^^"" ing almost like life. The magicians, or doctors, wear very long hair. They carry images of their gods and spirits in a box, which is kept sacred, and is scarcely ever seen by the vulgar. They have great power over the tribe ; and some of the Indians stand in great fear of them ; for if a doctor owes them a grudge, he will, they think, charm away their life. I have been told by a doctor himself, that sometimes an Indian's wife, sister, or daughter, may die ; and the Indian, supposing the doctor to have charmed away her life, will avenge himself on the doctor. Amongst the southern tribes, murders have been committed bv the Indians on the doctors. ■ 281 The oil which they eat with the varions kinds of dried fish, is made firom sprats, and in the following manner. In the centre of their huts they have a fire ; and a quantity of these fish are placed in a large square bucket with water : then hot stones are kept constantly thrown in amongst the fish, with a pair of wooden tongs. The oil rises to the top of the water, and a person is kept in attendance to skim it off. After standing until cold, it is quite white and thick. They also make seal oil from the blubber. Quantities of deers' and goats' grease are traded from them. Bears' grease might be obtained here in abundance; as the black and brown bear are numerous. Deer, and all kinds of wild fowl, are also plentiful. The principal fur is the beaver, mar- ten, sea otter, land otter, minx, cross-fox, and silver- fox, and squirrels. About the month of September, various tribes, who ore firiendly with the N^s Indians, visit the fort, and encamp around it: then the fort is sur- rounded with hundreds of Indians. The principal tribes visiting at this time, are the Tongarse, Ke- gamie. Port Stewart, and Stikein. More northern tribes come firom the Russian possessions ; and the Indians firom Queen Charlotte's Island, called the Maasets, Comshewars, and Sketigets. At this time 'i lis ^wmmfr- 282 I :fl there are all kinds of dancing, singing, and feasting amongst tfaem. Trade is kept up at a brisk rate at the fort, which is made in a manner a lively show booth. The Indians ooming from distant parts to this fort, have large canoes, from thirty to fifty feet long, the paddles resembling those of the Chinooks, and are managed in the same manner. Besides contain- ing numerous Indians, their canoes are piled up with goods for barter. Th^ remain mustered here for some weeks, making the fort a complete fair. It requires strict and good management, at this time, by the companies of officers, to protect the fort. On landing at the fort, their canoes are piled up in large heaps, covered over with mats, to keep the sun from cracking them. They bring prorisions with them, to last during their stay and journey home. Feasts are given by the chiefis ; and invitations sent regu- larly round to the different guests. Should any of the officers of the company be invited, stools are placed by the side of the fire, covered over with cloth and fine calico ; and they are introduced with great ceremony — the chiefs standing to receive them. Skins are given, as presents, to the officers ; and, in the course of a day or two, the trader returns the compliment, by making them presents of British manufactured clothing. 283 After the various tribes have finished their trading speculations ; and paid their various v^isits of friend- ship to one another, and the officers ; they hiunch their canoes, laden with the return goods ; striking u p an Indian voyage song with great glee. The Indians inhabiting the vicinity of the fort are taU, well proportioned, and more active and cleanly than the southern tribes. The women are about the same height as the Chinooks ; but much more cleanly, particularly the young women — all of them better clad ; wearing, as before mentioned, a loose gown. They have slaves, who do the principal drudgery. These slaves, in barter, fetch a larger price to the northward than they do to the south j and are sold by the Niss tribe to the various inland tribes, for furs. These furs they again sell to the white traders for blankets, and other articles of use or luxury. « Numbers of the young men among the northern tribes speak broken English, picked up from the various- American vessels, that used to frequent these parts, and from the company's servants. Amongst these tribes are numbers of American half-breeds, both men and women : some of the latter as fair as English females: some with light hair, and some few with quite red hair. 284 The country surrounding the fort is high and woody. The wood consists of pine, spruce, cedar, and (Tjrpress. With various runs of water, coming from the interior mountains. It abounds with deer, duck, and geese: hallibut, salmon, and herring. Berries, of all kinds, grow in aliundance, which are gathered by the women, and dried for winter provisions. Their religion resembles that of the other tribes, who think the sun is the great ambulatory spirit, who makes his daily tour of inspection over the sta- tionary earth ; and that the moon is his subordinate nocturnal watchman. On one occasion I explained to a chief that it was the earth that moved round, and not the sun. He said he always put faith in what I had previously told him, but never should any more ; as I was only deceiving him. They are very much afraid of the small pox, which, in 1885, had made dreadful ravages amongst them — more amongst the families of the chiefs, than among the inferior classes; perhaps because these did not lead so sedentary a life, and were not so highly fed. Most of the men employed by the company here take wives, principally from the Ton- garsc, and Kegarnie tribes ; these being the most cleanly of all the Indians on the coast. Their dress resembles, for the most purt, that of the Niss women, but is of finer texture — the cloak ornamented with pearl buttons — ^the stays outside the gown, of scarlet cloth, so as to show off the shape, similarly ornamented — silver rings through the nose, and on the fingers — several bracelets on the arms, and strings of braided silk depending from the ears. Both men and women have a hand- some and regular expression of countenance: in complexion and contour resembling Europeans. This may be averred of most of the natives in these latitudes. During the time the opposition was kept up be- tween the company and the Americans on this coast, this tribe, as well as the other northern ones, used to designate the Americans by the name of Boston ' fellow, — ^the British, as Kin^ George fellow. And the old chief of this tribe, named Neoccote, often told me that he observed a small variation in phraseology, and even in pronunciation, between the British and Americans ; which he used thus to express : " small change 'em, speak 'em, king George fellow, Boston fellow }" t. e., the Bostonians and British speak the same language, but with a small change. This old chief was very much attached to the British, and gave, as a legacy to Mr. Ogden, two ;;t v\ ^1 '' 1 "^f" mm 286 ' beaver skins, stating, that when he died he wished a coffin to be made, and to be buried initafter the British &shioD, and in their burying-ground near the fort, by the side of Lieutenant Simpson — a gentleman who was commander of the company's shipping in the Oregon, and who was buried close to Fort Simpson. But as I had left that part of the country before his death, I did not hear whether lus family allowed him to be buried as he wished ; or whether he was placed in the woods amongst the dead remnants of his tribe. The principal harbour of Tongarse, which lies within the Russian territory, is round Uke a bason, with a sandy bottom ; the soundings firam eight to twenty fathoms. The land, for some distance, is low, interspersed with the usual sorts of wood found in these latitudes. The interior is dotted with small plains and lakes. The soil is good. Deer, salmon, with various other fish, as well as wild fowl, abound here. This harbour is said to be the best on this part of the coast whence to obtain spars, and other wood, for shipping. The Americans as well as the British were prevented visiting these harbours for trade, as the Baissians began to cast a jealous eye upon them, and set armed vessels in the various ports, which they called their territory, for 987 the protection of their trade. Therefore the com- pany and Americans had to confine themselves within the 64° of latitude. The Kegamie tribe, also in the Russian territory, live on an immense island, called North Island. They resemble the Tougarse Indians, both men and women, in appearance, dress, and customs.. The country is rocky, and higUy covered with pine and spruce trees, and with a light pasture mould. Fish, seal, and berries constitute their principal food. Some of the Indians' teeth are actually worn down close to their gums, from continually eating hard dried salmon. There is a chief of this tribe who is a half-breed American, and goes by the name of George Bennett ; and is said to be a son of Captain Bennett, who was, many years ago, in charge of a vessel from Boston, trading on the coast. This young Bennett speaks English very well. I asked him if he would not like to go to America or England ? He answered " no I'' as he considered we were slaves — even our chiefs — ^who were always doing something from necessity; and as we were always at work for a living. " I have slaves," said he, " who hunt for me — ^paddle me in my canoes, — and my v^^ives to attend upon me. Why should I wish to leave V \i M ) 2B8 n Although the jealousy of the Russians prevents the British entering their ports for trade, the Indians prefer trading with the British ; therefore they travel for miles, with their large canoes laden with furs, to Fort Simpson. The Stikein tribe live much further north, approaching the chief Russian settlement of Sitka, at the top of Clarence's Straits, which run up. wards of 100 miles inland. These Indians speak the same tongue as the Tongarse, ahd are in- termarried with them. Furs are numerous amongst them, and of a good quality. It is a mountainous country; some of the mountains continually covered with snow, Here, as in other parts of the coast, the wood consists of pine, spruce, and cedar. A little to the northward of this there is a tribe called the Chilkasts. In their country great quanti- ties of virgin copper are found. Some of it is worked by the natives into a kind of shield, about two feet and a half long, and one foot broad, with figures of men and animals engraved upon it. The labour and ingenuity expended in working one of these shields, give them great value. One of them is estimated as worth nine slaves ; and is transmitted as a precious heir-loom firom father to son. Before leaving Fort Simpson, it may not be un- 289 interesting to give a sketch of a slight disturbance which originated through one of the Indian women. During the time a large body of Indians were en- camped round the fort for trade, one of them, a Port Stewart Indian, became jealous of his wife, who was a Tongarse. In his jealous fit he beat his wife most tremendously. Her sister, who saw this, ran up with a clasp-knife in her hand — plunged it in the man's mouth ; and cut his cheek close up to his ear. He would eventually have bled to death, had not Dr. Kennedy, of the fort, attended him. The woman fled. A regular feud was thus gene- rated, and the friends of both parties prepared for all the stratagems of barbarous revenge and warfare. A feUow tribe-man, and particular friend of the wounded man, lay day and night in wait for the woman. This one of the woman's friends and re- lations discovered ; and he, too, lay in wait for the skulking assassin until he found him, and shot him dead. These accumulated wrongs stopped all avenues of peaceful negociation; and war, to the very pole of the battle aofe, was declared between the tribes. The Port Stewartites managed to come upon part of the Tongarse tribe at night, near their village, and killed several. The Tongarse Indians, anxious /A«»i for peace, offered to make compensation. " i 390 ' with slaves and blanketSi to the dead man's friends, as well as for the " man injured in the mouth :" this they readily accepted. But after this negociation the Port Stewart Indians swerved from their con- tract, and fitted out another war party to attack the village. But some of the Tongarse tribe, being in the wood, saw them, and roused the village. The enemy, seeing this unexpected resistance, fled. But the Tongarse Indians chased them, and, having found thirty of them in a deep hole in the wood, surrounded with rocks, commenced a deadly fire upon them, and destroyed them as the Blackfeet would a herd of buffalo. Thus terminated the war at that time. But the Port Stewart tribe, when I left the country, were filled with revenge, and only waiting for their opportunity. Their houses are of the same construction as those of the Chiuooks, but much larger. Their favourite dish is seal, but they most frequently feed off dried salmon and oil. The brown, black, and grey bear are numerous in these northern parts ; as are wolves, which, during the winter months, come near the fort, howling in hundreds, with their whelps, for hours. The Indian dogs resemble the wolf very much, having a sharp nose, and a long, bushy tail ; being a cross breed from the wolf they are famous yr- 291 dogs for running deer down in the woods, and nre often used by the Indians for that purpose — particu- larly in winter, when the snow is on the ground, driving the deer from the woods ou to the beachj where the Indians lie in wait, and shoot them. Their canoes are made from large trees, hollowed out, resembling those of the Ghinooks, but larger. Every chief keeps an Indian on his establishment for making and repairing canoes, and making masks for his religious representations ; this man they call their carpenter. Their covering consists of blankets ex- cept on state occasions : then the chiefs have splendid dresses of prepared elk skins, ornamented with por- cupine quills, dyed in various colours produced from boiled roots. Mr. Peter Skein Ogden was the man who estab- lished the first fort amongst these northern tribes— who pitched his tent on a spot where white man never did before and succeeded in bringing these savages into contact with the white man's customs — detached them from the profligacy of American trading to the useful and civilising intercourse with British merchants. He is descended from a most respectable and wealthy family in Montreal. He was educated for the law ; but preferred enlisting in the North-west Company and passing his days in S99 the wilds of America; where he has been almost from his youth. He is a man of great natural ta- lent, humour, goodnature, and intelligence. He will entertain a host of friends by his amusing anecdotes. I should very much like to see issued from the press the " Memoirs of the eccentric Peter Skein Ogden," which would be amusing both to young and old — learned and unlearned. Queen Charlotte's Island is about 150 miles long. The principal tribes upon it are the Sketigets, Massets, and Comshewars. These are numerous; and have several half-breed Americans amongst them. They are expert thieves ; and will, if constant watch is not kept, when visiting the vessels, draw bolts, staples, nails, and other articles of iron, fit)m the doors. I^ead is a fancy article of theirs; sometimes they will en- deavour to cut it off the stem of a vessel. The only thing that keeps these, as well as the other northern tribes, in a little subjection, is the nine or twelve- pound cannons staring them in the face. A great number of these Indians speak broken English. This island, as well as numerous other places, has never been examined; but samples of lead have been given by the Indit s to some of the company's servants. There are va< ms minerals found here; but it would require a lar 3 party of men to examine this island, as the Indians are treacherous and sly. A soft kind of stone is found, resembling slate, which the Indians make into pipes, ornamented with va- rious figures cut upon them resembling men and animals. From the flat file they make beautiful fluted daggers ; some eighteen inches long, as highly finished as if they had been turned out of a first-rate maker's hands in London. They likewise make hats from white roots of trees, neatly platted toge- ther, made into any shape. Their dress is not very dissimilar from that of the Tongarse tribe. When a vessel visits these tribes, which is seldom, as fur is rather scarce (particularly beaver), and as land and sea otter, with a few small furs, are the only skins they have, and these not plentiful, they will congregate, as near the vessel as possible, and dance — ^throwing themselves into different postures, and making all kinds of grimaces — having their faces highly painted; and down from the eagle com- pletely covering their hair, with a kind of rattle in their hand, and a musical instrument resembling the tamburine. The dance is generally accompanied with a song. Their houses are neatly constructed, standing in a row ; having large images, cut out of wood, resembling idols. 'I'he dwellings have all painted fronts, shewing imitations of men and ani- "T?^I«PW»W^ ■■A" vJL 294 mals. Attached to their houses, most of them have large potatoe gardens: this vegetable was first given to them by an American captain; and is now grown in abundance, and traded by them to the vessels visiting their harbour, and to the traders at Fort Simpson. I have known from five to eight hundred bushels being traded in one season, from these Indians, at Fort Simpson. In the latter end of the year of 1834, the. Hudson's Bay Company lost, on Rose Point, at the entrance of this harbou*' a fine schooner, of about 100 tons, commanded by Captain Duncan ; which drove upon the sands, on her beam ends. As it was found im- possible to float her, and as the natives, who congre- gated in multitudes around Mr. Heath, the chief officer, and his men, while attempting to clear away the sand from her, were armed, and showed every disposition to pillage and murder, the crew quitted the wreck, at night, in the boats, and pulled for Fort Simpson. Afker several days of toil, and after some of the crer were frost-bitten, they, with hearts full of joy, reached the fort ; not knowing, on their journey, but that rounding every point of land they might be cut off from a volley fired by the trea- cherous Indiana. Captain Duncan thought some other vessel might be at the fort ; if so, he deter- 295 mined again to return, to secure the vessel and the cargo. But, no vessel being at the fort, the lost schooner was left to the savages. We afterwards learnt that their plot was laid ; and an attack was to have been made early the following morning. And in dividing the plunder amongst themselves several quarrels originated, and numbers were killed. The Hudson's Bay Company judiciously let the matter rest, without chastising the natives, and gave orders that no proceedings were to be taken against them, but to allow the trade to proceed as usual. mm* 296 CHAPTER XVIII. Relative claims of Great Britain and America to the Oregon Territory considered. This subject has been abeady much discussed. A simple synopsis of the whole case may help to lead any right-minded, and dispassionate person to a just conclusion which of the contending claimants has the best right. It is universally allowed that the right of any state to the jurisdiction over a new country rests on three grounds : — 1st, prior discovery ; ^nd, the taking formal possession after discovery ; 3rd, settle- ment ; this ground being strengthened if the formal possession be continued by settlement. There is a corollary often appended to these, «. e., contiguity of territory. Now I think it will appear, to any sober mind, that, on each, and all of these grounds, the British claim is unquestionable. Ist, As to discovery. I mm mmum 297 shall mention only the chief navigators and ex- plorers, avoiding all questionable and unimportant statements. In 1777, before the Americans had any existence as a nation, Cooke, the Englishman, carefully ex- plored the coast, as far as the forty-eighth degree : examined Nootka Sound; and then proceeded on his tour of survey northward to the Arctic Ocean, until he ascertained that the continents of Asia and America were separated by a strait. This strait Beehring subsequently passed, not knowing, as Cooke did, its character and geographical relations. However, most unjustly, the strait has been named after Beehring. In 1787, Berkeley, the well known English navi- gator, explored the Strait of Fuca. In the same year, Dixon, an Englishman, explored Queen Charlotte's Island, calling it after his own 's name. In 1788, Lieutenant Hears, R. N., who had long been engaged in the British trade in China, and was well conversant with the multitudinous branches of the Pacific intersecting this part of the coast, took an accurate survey of the Strait of Fuca and Nootka Sound ; taking formal possession of the cir- cumjacent territory in his Britannic Majesty's name ; 298 and established a factory, or trading post, at Nootka Sound. In 1792, 1793, and 1794, the celebrated EngUsh navigator Vancouver, being sent out by government, explored, surveyed, and sounded the Strait of Fuca, to the head of Puget's Sound, and every mile of all the intricate windings of this coast. It may be said, without exaggeration, that, in the world, there is not to be found a more extensive and complex system of internal navigation. The labyrinth of bays, sounds, inlets, creeks, and harbours, — ^promontories, islands, and land tongues, with the countless sinuosi- ties of land and water, show it to be a perfect net- work. In 1792, Broughton, Vancouver's lieutenant, commanding another ship, explored the Columbia Biver, as far as 100 miles upwards, taking possession (and in his sovereign's name) of the whole coast, as British territory; and gave their present names to several places. In 1793, M'Kenzie was, in his inland explora- tions, nobly co-operating with Vancouver, in fur- thering the object of Great Britain. Perhaps, in the whole history of inland discovery, there is nothing to surpass M'Kenzie's amazing perseverance, courage, and sagacity. At a time when most of the north- 299 west coutinent was totally unknown, and considered impassable, from the dreariness of the country, the destructive rigour of the climate, and the ferocity of the natives, he, a humble officer in the Hudson's Bay Company, conceived the daring project of traversing the whole continent, from ocean to ocean ; and not only conceived, but — eiecuted it ! Having crossed the Rocky Mountains — whose existence was not he- fore ascertained by civilised men, he descended part of the Tacoutche Tasse river and reached the Pacific, in latitude 52' 3'. The other early explorers were the Spaniards — the principal of whom was Heceta. In 1775, he discovered the Columbia. In a Spanish map, printed a few years after, the mouth of the river is called Entreda de Heceta, and - Entreda di Assuncion ; and the river itself, Kio di San Roque : because he explored the lower parts of it on the fifteenth and sixteenth of August ; which are the festivals of the Assumption, and of St. Roch. Now, as to the American discovery. Here is the history of it, as given by Washington Irving ; who puts the very best face on the matter, for his coun- trymen : " Among the American ships which traded along the north-west coast, in 1792, was the Co- lumbia, Captain Gray, of Boston. In the course of 300 her voyage, she discovered the mouth of a large river, in latitnde 46° 19' north. Entering it, with some difficulty, on account of sand-hars, and break- ers, she came to anchor in a spacious bay Cap- tain Gray did not ascend the river farther than the bay in question, which still bears his name. After putting to sea, he fell in with the celebrated disco- verer, Vancouver, furnishing him with a chart, which he made of the river. Vancouver visited' the river i and his lieutenant, Broughton, explored it by the aid of Captain Gray's chart ; ascending it upwards of 100 miles, until within view of a snowy mountain, to which he gave the name of Mount Hood, which it still retains. The existence of this liver was known long before the visits of Gray and Vancouver ; but the information concerning it was vague and indefinite ; being gathered from the reports of In- dians, It was spoken of, by travellers, as the Ore- gon, and as the great river of the west." Here it may be observed — 1st, that one of the especial objects of Vancouver's mission was to explore this river — ^which was well known to the English ; and which England, by previous treaty with Spain, had as good a right to settle on, as she had on the Thames, or Humber : the knowledge was not at all vage, but definite enough. Nor was this knowledge 801 gathered from the reports of the Indians, but from the published accounts, and maps, of Heceta's discovery. — 2nd, that Gray was only a private spec- ulating trader, dodging along that coast, bartering for fors. — 3rd, that he never passed farther up than twelve miles, as he himself says. — 4th, that his ob- ject was not to explore, or occupy. — 6th, that he did not explore ; for he remained in the river not more than ten days ; and, during this time, was weather- bound in the bay, where he took refuge ; and as to his chart, Vancouver, with a quiet sneer, says, " it was not much what it professed to be;'' and as to takinff possession, this poor cc aster never did it, or thought of it. In 1805-6, after, not merely the existence of the river, but its general course, and the adjacent locali- ties, were well known to, and occupied by British subjects, engaged in the fur trade, two American citizens, Lewis and Clarke, who had travelled over- land across the Rocky Mountains, nearly on the parallel of the mouth of the Columbia, reached, by means of the southern branch, the parts of it already known. Their declared object was "to search for a water communication for the purposes of com- merce." I n 1811, Thompson, a scientific member of the i^wxr—r^'mimrm 302 i 1 Canadian North-west Company, explored and sur- veyed the whole ; from its source along its north- em, which is its principal, branch, to its mouth. When Mears, in 1788, established his factory in Nootka Sound, and laid the foundation of a yery extensive British trade along the coast, Spain, hav- ing many previous causes of jealousy against Great Britain, took this opportunity of evincing a hostile spirit ; and despatched Admiral Martinez to seize on the property of the settlers, and dispossess them. The British government took fire — demanded, and received satisfaction for this invasion of British rights, in a country to which Great Britain averred she had as strong a claim as Spain : and, in truth, a stronger claim, so far as exploration and possession went. The consequence was, that a treaty — known as ''the Convention of the Escurial,'' was signed between the two parties, in 1790 : the principal pro- visions of which were — that the subjects of either state should not be molested in fishing, or in landing for the purposes of trading with the natives, or of establishing settlements, in places not already oc- cupied. And, by the fifth clause, it was agreed, that " the subjects of either state should have free access to the settlements then made, or thereafter to be made by the other." This treaty, which was laid be- 303 fore parliament by Mr. Fittj was cen''\ired, as limiting the British right of settlement. The fifth clause was the special subject for attack by the opposition ; who contended that^ under it, a British settlement was liable to interruption and invasion every mo- ment, at the caprice, or interest of the adverse party. Mr. Grey (the present Earl Orey) said, " In every place in which we might settle, access was left for the Spaniards. Where we may form a set- tlement on one hill, they may erect a fort on another. A British merchant must run all the risk of discovery, and all the expenses of establishment, for a property which was liable to be the subject of continual dis- pute, and which could never be placed on a perma- nent and stable footing." Had this sagacious statesman foreseen the present state of the Oregon question he could not have spoken more correctly ; and, if we substitute Americans for Spaniards, his description will hold good. Now, let it be recollected, that by this convention, in 1790, the rights of Spain and Great Britain be- came perfectly equalised ; and all differences, as to priority of discovery and right of colonisation, were completely settled. Be it observed, that no other state had, or ever pretended to have, any right whatever to possession in those countries. The discoveries. ' I .■^- '"iliRIi ^^immmmmi ■!■■ 804 made by Russia in the more northern latitudes can- not be made an exception, because they never did, nor could interfere with the terms of the convention. Great Britain, then, stands merely on her primi- tive rights of discovery, of possession, and settlement. And those rights she has, without one hint of con- cession, maintained up to the present hour. Since 1790 she has made no new claim of settlement ; and for the best reason, because her claim wfas as strong as justice could make it. In 1807, the pretensions of the Americans to the Oregon became the subject of diplomacy between the two governments. But nothing definite was done. In 1814, pending the treaty of Ghent, the subject was renewed; and it was then agreed on that " the places seized on by either party should be restored." Now nothing was to be restored but the bare walls of Astoria (the American settlement before described), for the proprietor had already sold his effects to the British North-west Company. This shell of an insignificant fort they never after* terwards occupied. In 1818 the subject was renewed. And then it was agreed, that the country west of the Bocky Mountains should be open to both powers for ten years, without prejudice to their respective claim. In 1827 the former covenant was confirmed. 305 with the additional stipulatiou, that either party was at liberty to annul it, on giving the other twelve months' notice. In a few months after the treaty of 1818, the Federal government concluded a treaty with Spain* called the "Florida Treaty ;*' by which Spain ceded to these States all her claims and pretensions to ter- ritory north of the forty-second degree of latitude, by a line drawn from the sources of the Arkansas to the Pacific. It is on this cession of territorial right on the part of Spain that America partly rests her sole right to the territory of Oregon. But this assertion of right is, on the very face of it, absurd and untenable. Spain could not transfer what she did not then possess. Spain never had exchmve possession of the country; and even if she had, she surrendered it, by ^' the convention of the Escurial,*' in 1790. After that she had no more than a right of joint occupancy with Great Britain. But they assume another ground of right, i. e., the discovery of the Columbia by Gray. This ground is as untenable as the other ; and almost inconsistent with it. If the American right be sufficiently strong (as it is not) when founded on the cession by Spain, why resort to another ground ? — the priority of discovery, octtle- 306 ment, &c. Now, this alle/^ed discovery did not take place till two years after the treaty of 1 790. And for twenty-six years after this alleged discorery they did not set up such a claim of excluaive right. For they only contended, in 1814 and 1818, that their claim was a» good as that of Great Britain. Be- sides, Gray was not the discoverer of the river. After the government of the United States had ooneluded the Florida treaty with Spain, it entirely altered its tone with respect to the Oregon country ; and when the negociations were next renewed, in 1827, between it and the government of Great Britain, it pushed its pretensions to the boldest lengths. It then claimed, through its plenipotentiary — Mr. Gallatin, from the 42nd to the 49th degree of latitude, without reserve. With respect to the discovery of the Columbia, it has been already shown, that the first discoverer was not Gray, but Heceta ; and that the first explorer was not Gray, but Broughton. As to the surrender of all the rights of Spain to America by the Florida treaty, the lAmv answer is, that Spain only did, and only could, siirrender what she herself enjoyed after the convention of 1790, i.e., the right of joint trading and occupancy with Great Britaiu. An exclusive right she never had. And 807 though a war broke out between the two countries subsequently to 1790; yet in the treaty of peace, afterwards signed, Span did not rescind, or even propose to rescind, the covenant of 1790, which was of a fixed and permanent character. As to the surrender of Astoria ; it ought to be noticed, that the Americans showed some ''sharp practice.'* All the property of Astoria was sold to the North-west Company, by its proprietor, who anticipated the coming storm ; and sold h^ore the formal seizure of the fort by Captain Black, of the British war sloop, the Racoon. The treaty stipulated that ''all the possessions taken by either party, during or after the war, should be restored." Strictly speaking, there was nothing, except a de- nuded post, to be restored to the Americans; for there was no property lost. The fort was, however, restored : but it has not since been occupied by the Americans; which shows their surrender of the ground of occupancy. It is now used by the Hud- son's Bay Company. Lord Castlereagh, writing on the 4th of Febru- ary, 1818, on this subject, to the British Min- ister at Washington, says, "In signifying to Mr. Adams the full acquiescence of your government in the re-occupation of the limited position (i. e. 308 Astoria) which the United States held in that river (the Columhia) at the breaking out of the war, you will, at the same time, assert the claim of Great Britain to thai territory, upon which the American settlement must be considered as an en- croachment." He also says, that the British govern- ment " are not prepared to admit the validity of the title of the United States to this settlement." Lord Bathurst, in his despatch to the Korth-west Com- pany on this subject, says, "without, however, ad- mitting the right of that government (the United States government) to the possession in question." Could language more pointedly convey the opinion of the British government, that the Americans had not a shadow of title to the coimtry, than these despatches? The simple truth is, that it was not thought worth while to keep up a contention about a paltry post. It was surrendered. But the sur- render was accompanied by many protests, that it should not be tortured into any recognition of a right of occupation on the part of America. On the contrary, the settlement was declared to be an en* croachment on British rights, in despatches publicly addressed by British ministers to public servants, and public companies. As to contiguity of territory. — ^The American ter- 309 ritory is not more contiguous to tlie Oregon than the British is. In Betct, it is less contiguous ; for the undisputed possessions of Great Britain in North America are absolutely dovetailed into that country ; so much so, that if, by any fatuity or criminality of British statesmanship, the country were to be sur- rendered to the avarice of the Americans, it would be almost impossible to strike a line of boundary. But the case is very different as to the frontiers of the United States. There nature has erected a wide and lofty barrier. After you pass the western limits of the States, there is, for many weeks' journey, a vast arid wilderness, yielding no sustenance for e\en wild man, or wild beast. Then, after that, there rises to the clouds, and above them, the ap- palling range of the Rocky Mountains; towering, sometimes, to the height of 18,000 feet, capped with eternal snow. Then again, these being crossed, the traveller has to pass over hundreds of miles, through crags, defiles, and deserts, before he approaches the valley of Columbia. This is con- tiguity of territory ! In the same way may the Pacha of Egypt claim the land of the Niger as an appendage to the land of the Nile. The object of the Americans is to have the do- minion of ^^. whole continent, from the Atlantic to 310 the Pacific ; and to exclude all Europeans, especially British subjects, from all habitation there. This they do not disguise: indeed, they are every day growing bolder, and more exclusive in their tone. The 49th degree of latitude was the extremest north- ern limit that the Americans ever set, formerly (even in 1827), to their claim, in their boldest assumption of right. But now they have transcended all their former pretensions by many degrees : for they claim as far north as the 54th degree ! The President, in his formal message to Congress, on the 5th of December, 1842, says, — "The United States have always con- tended that their rights appertained to the whole region of country lying on the Pacific, and embraced within 42* and 54» 40' of north latitude." Commentary on so false and monstrous an assertion as this is thoroughly use less. If concession be made to this claim, they will, by-and-bye, claim as far as the pole. In a word, nothing will satisfy them, short of the extinction of British power and influence throughout the northern Continent of America. And it only remains for the British government, and the British people, to consider whether they will tolerate this. mmmm 311 CHAPTER XIX. Flat-heads — Black-feet — Snakes — Plutes — Strange probationary rites. The Flat-heads are, comparatively, very fair ia com- «/!exion, and remarkably \rell made and active ; with oval faces, and a mild, and playful expression of counte • nance. They are described, by those who have the best opportunides of knowing them collectively, as well as individually, as moral and honest in all their dealings — brave in the field — amenable to their chiefs — fond of cleanliness, and decided enemies to theft and falsehood of every description. They are also free from bacicbxting and laziness, which are so common amop^' oihrv tribes. The women are dutifid and affei tic tatc wives and mothers ; and conjugal infi- delity is t ?.rrp If known amongst them. The dress of the men and women resembles that of other tribes living in rude comfort. The principal chief of the tribe is hereditary ; but, from their constant wars, they have adopted the M 312 salncary custom of electing, as their leader in be. tie, that warrior in whom is combined the greatest por- tion of wisdom, strength, and bravery. The election takes place annually; and, after the expiration of his period of military chieftainship, the leader sinks into his original position, unless he be re-elected. When at home this leader has no authority what- ever ; but is as ecually subject as any other warrior to the power of the hereditary chief. But when the warriors set out on ii2 .unting excursions to the plains, he assumes the cJL.^f command, which he ex- ercises with absolute sway till their return. On their advance towards an enemy he always takes the lead ; and on their return, or retreat, he brings up the rear. His post is the one of the greatest danger, as well as of responsibility and power. He carries a long whip with a thick handle, which is decorated with scalps, of those whom he himself slew, and ^''h feathers ; and he generally appoints two active war- riors as his subalterns, or aidea-d^'Camp, Great regu- larity is observed during the march ; and if any war- rior fall out of the ranks, or be guilty of any breach of discipline, he always acts with strict justice and impartiality ; and punishes one of his own officers, if guilty of any disobedience or iiTegularity, with as much severity as any other offender. Hence, as wejl 313 as from a sense of public expediency and duty, his authority is patiently obeyed. After the conclusion of the campaign, and on their arriving at their own home, the hereditary chief convenes a public meet- ing ; and they proceed to a new election. There is no canvassing or intriguing ; and if the last leader be superseded, he submits without a murmur. They rarely marry out of their own nation ; and will not easily consent that any of their women should become the wif<: of a white man. Their marriages are contracted only with the consent of the bride's parents or natural guardians, to whom presents are made by the bridegroom. He, too, in return, receives presents. This custom prevails among most of the tribes west of the Rocky Moun- tains. On the marriage day there is a meeting of mutual friends at the lodge of the bride's father, or next relation, who acts as her guardian; and they smoke the pipe of peace and friendship. Here the bride receives a lecture as to her future duties as a wife and mother. She is exhorted to be chaste, discreet, industrious, and silent ; «ind when absent, with her husband, among other tribes, always to stay at home, and have no intercourse with strange Indians. She then retires with the old women to an adjoining hut, where she undergoes ablution ; and wmmfi 314 is decked out ia her bridal finery. She is then led back to her father's or guardian's lodge — is com- plimented, and receives another lecture of advice. After this a procession is formed to conduct the couple to their own lodge: the men, conducting the bridegroom, move on first, bearing flambeaux of cedar, in a slow and solemn pace, • singing war songs in praise of the bridegroom's bravery, and of their own victories over their enemies — especially the Black-feet. The bride follows at a short distance, surrounded by a group of women, old and young ; some of whom are rejoicing at the prospect of hap- piness before her; others— especially her young com- panions — crying, at the prospect of losing her un- restrained society thenceforward. When the whole party arrive at the door of the young couple's lodge, they form a circle, and commence dancing and sing- ing for about twenty j:uinute8. After this, the pipe of peace goes round; the company offer many prayers for the future welfare of the bridal pair; and depart. The country of the Flat-heads presents a pleasing diversity of woods and plains — valleys and mountains — ^lakes and rivers; and is well stocked with deer, mountain sheep, beavers, otters, martens, wolves, lynxes, &c., wild fowl and fish, besides esculent roots ; 815 so that they have abundant means of subsistence and clothing ; and of traffic as well. The Flat-heads are polite and unobtrusive. When one speaks, the rest pay attention ; and every one very quietly gives his reasons for assenting, or dis- senting, from any proposition. Even the cliildren are more peaceable than other children ; and though hundreds of them may be seen together at play, there is no quarrelling among them. There is among them a strong devotional feeling, which is much encouraged by the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. Sunday is inviolably kept sacred by them. They will not raise their camp on that day ; neither will they hunt, fish, trade, or perform any kind of labour, except in cases of extreme danger on that day : they also spend a part of it in prayer and religious ceremonies. The chief, who is at the same time, generally, priest, assembles the community, and commences a form of prayer, in which they all join in an occasional chaunt, or chorus. He then exhorts them to good conduct — to be diligent in providing for their fami- lies — to abstain from lying and stealing — to avoid quarrelling or cheating in their play ; and to be just and hospitable to all strangers. During this time of worship all business in the camp is suspended : and if an Indian is riding by, he dismounts ; holds I ssis-'isffi'MSHT.wien-f;;*?; 316 his horse, and attends with devotion till all is over. At the conclusion, the priest says, '' I have done ;'* to which they all respond aloud. They have also their prayers on week days, in the morning or evening. Sometimes on an evening the chief, or priest, delivers these prayers and exhortations on horseback, moving slowly about the camp. This devotional feeling, and respect for morality, prevails among the Nez Percys abo, and other tribes in the midland region. And it may be affirmed, that there are many leading points of similarity between the Flat-heads and these tribes. They afford an ample and excellent field for the labours of zealous and judicious missionaries; who would have but little difficulty in converting them to Christianity — ^the morality and benevolence of which they already, to some extent, practise ; and for the reception of which they are already, in a great measure, prepared. But then the missionaries should be men who would enforce the truth and usefulness of their preaching by the purity of their lives ; for 89 they themselves generally practise what their prea*3'tiers inculcate, they would at once keenly notice any discrepancy between doctrine and con- duct. They believe in the existence of a good and evil 7::x' 'Z' 817 spirit ; and in a future state of rewards and punish' ments. They believe that after death the good will go to a countrjr where there is perpetual summer; and delightful rivers and plains, abounding in fish, buflfalo, and all kinds of game — ^that they will there meet their parents, wives, children, and other rela- tions and friends — and will there spend their time in hunting, fishing, and amusement ; free from the terrors of war, or the apprehensions of cold, or famine. But the bad, they believe, will be consigned to regions of eternal snow; where they will be shivering with cold, and sinking with thirst and hunger — ^beholding, at a distance, fires, which they cannot approach — water, which they cannot touch— and herds of deer and bu£falo, which they cannot kill : in a word. Tantalised with the sight of all the good things of life, which they must not use. They think the boundary between the dreary Tartarus occupied by the wicked, and the Elysian fields of the good, is a jungle full of panthers, wolves, and all other noxious and dangerous animals. However, they imagine that this place of punishment is rather a purgatory than a hell ; and that according to the different degrees of the crimes of the wicked, they will sooner or later be emancipated ; and when their '/; 318 offences are expiated, be permitted to join their for- mer friends, in the happy regions of the good. Their code of morality is very simple, and com- prehensive. They say that honesty — bravery — truth — dutiful submission to their parents — obedience to their chiefs — and affection for their wives, children, and families, are the virtues which entitle them to a place of happiness hereafter; whereas the opposite vices condemn them to a place of misery. ' They have also some idea of a fallen state. They have a traditionary belief that beavers are a fallen race of Indians ; who disobliged the good spirit, and were therefore condemned to their present shape — but that in due time they will be restored to their humanity. They allege that beavers have certain powers of speech; and that they have heard them talk with each other — ^holding council ; and sentenc- ing offending members to punishment. These no- tions about beavers are held by several other Indian tribes. The Black-feet are a numerous tribe, and the best looking of all the American Indians ; who roam far and wide on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, and are generally represented by natives and American traders, as the sworn foes alike of ^hite men and red. But though they are, unquestionably, a fierce 819 race, yet I have spoken to many free hunters and trappers, as fierce and unscrupulous as them- selves — men who would find no interest in under- valuing the peri J of their own pursuit, and would not be disposed to soften down the character of these Indians — men who knew the Black-feet well ; and I have heard from them that they were not devils so black as they were painted. They obtained the character of ferocity ; and they were therefore considered as fair human game, to be hunted down by the surrounding nations, whom they used to con- quer in war ; and by the Americans, against whose encroachments on Indian freedom and territory, they offered, and offer stiU, the most formidable stand. They are an austere and haughty race — occupy, generally, countries (as they spread their predatory and migratory rovings over a vast expanse, which abounds in all the means of subsistence) which bring them on the American confines, and which arc worth preserving. They have, they say, heard of the Ameri- cans ; who preached liberty, and proved it by shaking off the dominion of foreigners ; but have shown how false are their pretensions and their professions of general freedom, when the first use they have made of the establishment of their own independence, even in a strange land, was to rob those whose inde- ! »'>^) 880 pendence in their own native land was never di8< puted since they were created hy the Great Spirit, They say, too, that these white men did not come to them originally in a candid guise — either as friends or enemies; but that, contrary to all the notions they entertained of truth and valour, they came to them as treacherous liars. They smoked with them the pipe of peace and fidelity — broke that pledge— and then hunted the red men, 'like wolves, from the plains and hills that were granted to their fathers from all time. These white men pretended to give them the great blessings which their own spirit gave them ; but in place of this they gave them — not more meat, nor more fruits, nor more bread from roots, nor a better mode of making arrows, nor softer beds — but burning water (spirituous liquors) which the Bad Spirit made ; and which made them mad ; and not firiends, but enemies, to each other. They also say, that these white men who come from the direction of the rising sun, (the United States Americans,) have endeavoured to make them enemies to the other white men, who come from other quar- ters. These, and a thousand other justifications for their hostility to the white men, especially the Americans, I have heard from those who have had opportunities of tamiliar converse with them. 821 ' Independently of these abstract reasons for their dislike of the citizen white men, as the wanton destroyers of the whole red race, the conduct of the individual specimens of the American character who creep in among them, would almost justify their antipathy. A well-principled and high-minded American writer — Mr. Townsend, who made a journey through these regions with an American party, says, "This hostility is kept alive from year to year by incessant provocations on the part of the white hunters and traders, who are at best but intruders on the rightful domains of the red men of the wilderness. Many a night have I sat at the fire-side, and listened to the recital of bloody and ferocious scenes, in which the narrators were the actors, and the poor Indians the victims. And I have felt my blood boil with indignation, to hear the diabolical acts applauded by those for whose amusement they were narrated :" (i. e., the company of the American free citizens who accompanied him in his route overland through the Eocky Mountains to the Columbia, or Oregon territory.) " Many a merciless marauder was made by these midnight tales of rapine and murder — many a stripling, in whose tender mind the seeds of virtue and honesty ^jm I fiiijiiriu 111,11. nvaui .lumip , \ 322 had never yet germinated, burned for an opportunity of loading his pack-horse with the beaverrskins of some solitary Black-foot trapper; who was to be murdered, and despoiled of the property he had ac- quired by months of toil and danger/' The writer proceeds to point out a darker feature in the cha- racter of his countiymen — "those noble freemen (to use the words of a member of Congress) who are the pioneers to prepare the road off civilisation, of Christianity, and of our institutions, to our territo- ries on the banks of the Columbia." (!) — Says Mr. Townsend, in continuation of this subject, " Acts of this kind are by no means uncommon: and the subjects of this sort of atrocity are not always the poor Indians. White men themselves often fall by the hands of their companions, when by good for- tune and industry they have succeeded in loading their horses with fur! The fortunate trapper is treacherously murdered by one who has eaten from the same dish, and drank from the eame cup with him : and the assassin triumphantly returns to the camp with his ill-gotten property. If his companion be inquired for, the answer is, that some days ago they parted company : and he will probably soon join. But he is soon forgotten ; or perhaps only re- membered by one, more steadfast than the rest, who J. '■V 328 seizes with avidity the first opportunity of murder-' ,g an unoffending Indian in revenge for the death of his friend," The ferocity of the Black-feet towards the white man has, however, latterly been much mitigated by intercourse with the traders and out-trapping parties of the company. These act towards them with uniform civility, liberality, and justice; and go openly, and with known authority ; and also under responsibility to the company : not in the sneaking, thieving, bullying, and plundering character of the Americans ; who can give little, and are disposed to give less, in the way of trade, but cheat and plunder as much as they can, and are not under any controuU Mr. Townsend, speaking of a trapping party in the service of the company, and under the command of Mr. M'Kay, consisting of thirty men, Indians, French Canadians, and half-breeds, observes, " I ad- mire the order, decorum, and strict subordination which exists among his men, so different from what I have been accustomei to see in parties composed of Americans steady, determined perseverance, and bold mewures, aided by a rigid self-example^ made them as clay in his hand, and has finally re- duced them to their present admirable condition," The Black-feet appreciate this mode of dealing and li r J! I inii|iim;ipMl|M| NM^ 337 frequently hunt as well aa their husbands — kill the elk and buffalo — trap the beaver^ and use the rifle. Living so much in the open air, and leading so active a life, and generally so well fed, they are athletic and active. It is no uncommon occurrence to find them, on their lonely excursions with their husbands, of even when travelling with a party, give birth to an infant silently, and without assistance ; and in an hour after, they have recovered from the languor, tie up the infant— hoist it on their back, and proceed with their usual occupation. The kind of lodges generally used by the moun- tain Indians while travelling, and by the trapping parties, are of a conical form, composed of ten long poles, the lower ends of which are pointed, and driven into the ground, the upper blunt, and drawn together by thongs. Above, and around these poles, several dressed buffalo skins, sewed together, are stretched, a hole being left on one side for an en- trance. They are comfortable and commodious ; and in the erection of them, the Indian women, to whom the office is geDcr.iIly left, are singularly expert. A squaw, accustomed to the work, will erect and prepare one for the reception of her husband, while he is removing the burden from his horse. An ex- pert Indian woman has been known to stretch a 338 lodge in half tho time required by four white men to erect another in the neighbourhood. Haying already quoted the best authority for con- veying an idea of the conduct of the American traders and trappers, and of the contrast between them and those in the service of the company — i. e., American authority ; I beg to introduce one quota- tion more. Mr. Townsend, speaking of Mr. M'Kay's party, already mentioned, in which there were thirteen Indians — Perc^, Kayouse, and others — says, " After supper was concluded, we sat ourselves down on a buffalo robe, at the entrance of the tent, to see the Indians at their evening devotions. The whole thirteen were soon collected, at the call of one whom they had chosen for their chief, and seated with sober, sedate countenances around a large fire. After remaining in perfect silence for, perhaps, fifteen minutes, the chief commenced an harangue in a solemn, impressive tone; reminding them of the object for which ."ihey were assembled — that of wor- shipping " the Great Spirit, who made the light, and the darkness, the earth, and the water," — and then assured them, that if they offered up their prayers to him with one tongue, they would certainly be ac- cepted. He then rose from his squatting position to his knees, and his example was followed by all w mm 839 the others. In this situation he commenced a prayer, consisting of short sentences, uttered rapidly, but with great apparent fervour — ^his hands clasped on his breast, and his eyes cast upwards with a beseech- ing look towards heaven. At the conclusion of each sentence, a choral response of a few words was made, accompanied, frequently, by low moaning. The prayer lasted about twenty minutes. After its con- clusion, the chief, still maintaining the same position of body and hands, but with his head bent to his breast, commenced a kind of psalm, or sacred song, in which the whole company joined. The song was a simple expression of a few sounds, no intel- ligible words being uttered. It resembled the words Ho-ha — Ho-ha — Ho-ha — commencing in a low tone, and gradually swelling to a full, round chorus. During the song, the clasped hands of the worshippers were moved rapidly across the breast, and their bodies swung with great energy to the time of the music. The chief ended the song he had commenced by a kind of swelling groan, which was echoed in chorus. It was then taken up by another, and the same routine was gone through. The whole ceremony occupied about an hour and a half. A short silence then succeeded, after which each Indian rose from the ground, and disappeared : 340 in the darkness, with a step as noiseless as that of a spectre. I think I was never more gratified by any exhibition in my life. The humble and beseech- ing looks of the untutored beings who were calling on their heavenly Father to forgive their sins, and continue his mercies, and the evident heartfelt sin- cerity which characterised the whole scene, were truly affecting and impressive." He then proceeds to say, that, "The next day, being the Sabbath, our good missionary, Mr. Jason Lee (he was a methodist, and belonged to the writer's American party), was requested to hold a meeting, with which he obligingly complied. The greater part of our men, as well as the whoh of Mr. M'Kay's party, in- cluding the Indians, attended. The people were re- markably quiet and attentive ; and the Indians sat on the ground like statues. Although not one of them could understand a word that was spoken, they nevertheless maintained the most strict and decorous silence, kneeling when the preacher kneeled, and rising when he rose .... Mr. Lee is a great favorite with the men, deservedly so, and there are, probably, few persons to whose preaching they would have listened with so much complaisance. I have often been amused and pleased by Mr. Lee's man- ner of reproving them for the coarseness, and pro- ,,.«IJ'«;1J Jl— — J' MJLIJ,™ 341 fanitpf of expression, which is so universal among them/' Let the reader contrast this account of Mr. M'Kay's party, including the Indians, with the fol- lowing description, given six pages further, of an American debauch ; bearing in mind that the com- pany's men are not allowed the use of spirits. "At sunrise the "the star-spangled banner" was raised on the flag-staff. All in the camp were allowed the free use of liquor; and, as usual, the consequence was a scene of rioting, noise, and fighting during the whole day. Some became so drunk that their senses fled them entirely ; and they were, therefore, harmless ; but by far the greater number were suf- ficiently under the influence of the vile trash, to render them in their conduct disgusting and tiger- like. We had gouging, biting, fisticuffing, and stamp- ing, in the most scientific perfection. Some even fired guns and pistols at each other. Such scenes I hope never to witness again; they are absolutely sickening ; and cause us to look on our countrjrmen with loathing.'' The Bi^alo, or will American ox, which for- merly abounded in mout parts of North America, is every day becoming scarcer, in proportion as civi- lisation and cultivation advance. It was fouurl ;^ ' m^. ^"SJPSSK??!^^ •jm^^^:Nni->~ 1^1 -."i W^ — .Ji^« ,!.*■•■ ^nm.j.j 342 throughout the vrhole range now occupied by the United States, with the exception of that part which lies east of Hudson's Biver and Lake Champlain, and of narrow and swampy strips of coast on the Atlantic Gulf of Mexico. The fineness of the buf- falo wool, which within a few years has caused it to become an object of commerce, for the manufacture of hats and cloths, is mentioned by Morton, a New England settler, in 1637. He says, " their fleeces are very useful, being a kind of wolle, as fine almost as the wolle of the beaver.'' At present they are seldom seen east of the Missisippi, and south of the St. Lawrence. But they are found in considera- ble numbers west of the Rocky Mountains, in the Columbian region, neariy to the borders of California, and west oi Lake Winipeg, up to the sixty-third degree. Their general colour is dun; sometimes they are spotted. The frame of the buffdo is larger than that of the generality of domestic cattle ; and, though the fore parts are uncouth, the hind parts are handsomely, and rather delicately formed. It looks very formidable, from its large shoulder hump, its flowing wiry mane, and sweeping beard, and thick horns, curved backwards. A herd of buffaloes, when pursued, especially if there be a great number of bulls, emits a strong mmm nsmniiP 343 odour of musk, which is left in their wake; and their feet make a loud crackliug noise. Their sense of smell is very acute. Sometimes they will scent man, if to windward of them, at the distance of two or three miles ; and then they will gallop away with the greatest speed. When they cannot scent a man, they will bear his near approach, or advance them- selves very near him, without any shyness. Whe- ther this is to be attributed to the imperfect vision of the animal, whose eyes are obscured by the great quantity of hair which covers his face, or not, it is not easy to determine. Though buffaloes and elks are seen on the same prairies, they do not herd to- gether. Wolves commonly attend them; and nei- ther seem to molest the other. It is almost impos- sible to kiU this animal by shooting it through the head or chest : the head is so protected by a matting of coarse wiry hair, that a ball becomes entangled in it before reaching the bone ; and the chest is so fenced by a bulwark of bone, that it will require many bullets to penetrate it. Accordingly, the hunters contrive to gallop by the side of the animal, and shoot it, with bullet or arrow, behind the shoulder blade. They sometimes congregate in such myriads, on the prairies west of the Bocky Mountains, that the I ^p^^ 844 whole circle of vision within the bounds of the hori- zon presents one dark hiass of these animals. The bulls march at the head of the cows ; and it is then dangerous to encounter them : for if they become enraged or frightened, the whole herd start off in a jstraight line, and in close order, regardless of all obstacles ; and would crush to pieces men, horses, and waggons, if in their way. Some of these bulls weigh SOOOlbs each. When there is abundance of this sort of game, the hunters often content them- selves with the choice parts — the tongue — the slices by the hump ribs — and the marrow; the carcass being left to the wolves. This waste often leads to woeful want. When this animal is hunted, he becomes sometimes bewildered, and exasperated; and turns round on his pursuers : then it is inevitable death to come within range of his horns. Shooting the rapids. — When a boat enters the rapids of the Columbia, the bowman and the steersman quickly resign theiroars,and grasp short canoe paddles, which they hold down edge-wise, by the boat's sides, propping themselves, at the same time, against her gunwale, to steady her ; while the rowers, in the mid- dle, ply their oars most vigourously : and then the boat sweeps onward — rising, or ducking, or spinning about, according as she is borne by the current or 345 the eddies ; to the great terror of those who, for the first time, are thus whirled along. The success of such a perilous adventure mainly depends on the steadiness and skill of the two guides, at the stem and stem — the efforts of the middle men heing, mainly, to keep the hoat huoyant. The contrast between the Canadian voyageurs and the Indians, in performing this feat, is remarkable and charac- teristic : those merrily chaunt their boat-song ; but these are as silent and stem as death. Passage ftom the States through the Rocky Moun- tains. — ^Though several parties have penetrated into the Oregon territory from the United States, through the gorges, and over the towering heights, of the Rocky Mountains, yet it may be safely asserted, from the concurrent testimony of traders, trappers, and settlers, who have themselves passed these natu- ral barriers, that the difficulties are so numerous and formidable, and the time necessary for the passage so long, that there is no secure, expeditious, or com- modious track, which can be ever used as a highway, so as to afford facilities for an influx of emigrants over- land. Several routes have been tried of late'; and each differs only from the other in the privations which the passengers undergo. None but the wild and fearless free trappers can clamber over these ' I: (' i! 346 precipices, and tread these deserts with securit}r; and even these are quitting them as haunts, and now using them only as unavoidable tracks. It is true, there have been published more favorable accounts within the last year or two by parties who have made the journey safely, and who encourage 'others to make a similar experiment. But these accoujits are in such a spirit of bravado, and accompanied with ex- pressions of thankfulness by the parties for their own success, that they are indirect proofs of the difficulty and danger of the undertaking, and of the utter hopelessness of such a route for general purposes. For hundreds of miles, the several tracks present nothing but frigthful barrenness under-foot, and over-head, scorching heat, or piercing cold. The country, even west of the Rocky Mountains, is broken with towering cliffs, deep ravines, and sunken streams, from which the traveller cannot draw a drop to allay his burning thirst; and the soil is either sandy, in which he sinks at every step ; or of a black, rugged stone, which tears his feet. The travellers have been obliged to feed on the lean carcases of their animals, which have died from hunger, thirst, or fatigue. Famham says, that his party were at last obliged to kill their universal fa- vorite and pet — ^their dog; and economise his flesh. 347 He further says, that during eight days' journey — and he had proceeded with the expedition of one travelling for life — ^he had not met with a single acre of land capable of producing groin or vege- tables. Another American traveller — Townsend^ says : ''Our only food was the dried, crumbling, meat which we carried; and chewed like biscuits as we travelled. There are two reasons by which the ex- treme thirst which the wayfarer suffers, in these regions, may be accounted for — first, the intense heat of the sun, upon the open and' exposed plains ; and secondly, the desiccation to which every thing here is subject. The air feels like the breath of a sirroco ; the ton^nie becomes parched and horny; and the eyes, mouth, and nose are incessantly assailed by the fine, pulverised lava, which rises from the ground with the least breath of air. Bullets, pebbles of chalcedony, and pieces of smooth obsidian, were in great requisition : almost every man was mumbling some of these substances, in an endeavour to assuage his burning thirst." The lead bullets, and the other substances which they chewed were for the purpose of producing spittle which they would swallow to prevent inflammation and death. There are, however, certain declinations called gaps i 1 348 through which, (though vrith great labour,) a tedious, and dreary passage can be effected, The most fre- . quented of these is the most northern, between mounts Brown and Hooker, through which the com- pany's servants pass in their journey from Columbia to Hudson's Bay. This is, comparatively, an easy pas- sage. There is another between the head-waters of the Flat-head and Marias rivers. Another between Lewis and Clarke's River, in the Oregon, and the sources of the Missouri. And another, which is very .mportant lies between Long's Mountains, and the Wind River cluster. 849 CHAPTER XXI. Missionaries. Haying already, in various parts of this work, when describing the customs of the natives, prepared the reader for forming a judgment of the religious ten- dencies of their minds; and shewn their aptitude for the reception of Christian truth, I beg to offer a few remarks on the culpable neglect of the mental, moral, and religious culture, evinced by the missionary so- cieties of Great Britain, and by successive govern- ments, towards those people who are, in truth, de facto, however questionable it may be that they are dejure, subjects of the British crown. The Hudson's Bay Company, it cannot be doubted, exercises almost absolute sway over the whole of the north-west of America, and, it may be averred, also over the Oregon country. Their power is the only civilised power known to the Indians which they shew any disposition ; J- 350 to yield to, or even respect. Independently of the vast and complex machinery of internal and coasting commerce, which they have set to work throughout those almost boundless tracts — a machi- nery reduced to the most perfect and unerring regu- larity — and independently of the sway which their numerous servants, scattered far and wide, and in- termingling with the natives, can give the company — the strict honesty of their dealings (for they are now become too powerful and too wealthy to be placed under any necessity of practising either fraud or oppression to carry ou their trade, and too humane and prudent to resort to these vile American ex- pedients) and their humane endeavours to lift, as far as lies within their individual scope, the natives from their prostration and ignorance to the rank of christianised and civilised men — endeavours whi^'h the natives are sagacious enough to perceive, and honest enough to acknowledge (speaking generally), have struck the roots of their power deep mto the hearts of the aborigines. The Russians and Americans are the only two nations that come, even remotely, in contact with the British in those countries ; and both are equally powerless and uninfluential with the natives. The Russians, for the most part, confine themselves to 351 their own territory — a strip of sea coast, beyond the 54° of north latitude. Even here they can hardly be said to exercise direct power, or even to have much influence. They have posts, it is true, stationed there; one especially at Sitska, in the Kamskatka country — a large one, which is worthy of some notice ; and to which the Hudson's Bay < ' jmpany, by a commercial contract, entered into lately, supply provisions. They, however, are barely traders ; carry- ing off the products of the country, without taking much interest in the condition of the natives : neither caring for them, or cared for by them. The Ameri- cans hold a position inferior still ; for they have not one inch of land from California to the Pole — ^from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, to which they have undisputed right ; and not one single trading post or station along that immeasurable range of coast and country. They do trade, it is true, as well as they can, throughout this vast expanse. But then, from their pri^iciples of conducting trade, and the domineering disposition evinced by their irresponsi- ble traders, they have lost all hold of the respect and confidence of the natives. It may be, therefore, averred, without any cha-^ce of effective contradic- tion, that, while the British possess substantial and enduring jjower, through the agency of the Hudson's 352 Bay Company, the Americans have, not to say a shadow of power, but they have not even influence with the natives — ^from north to south — ^from east to west ; for they are looked on by them with distrust and hatred. Such, then, being the real position of the relative parties, and snch the hold which the British have ove rthe natives, it is deeply to be la- mented that no general and eflPectual course has been adopted to bring them within the pale of Christianity and civilisation. Perhaps on the whole surface of the earth there is not a wider and more easy field for the operation of the missionaries, or one from which a richer harvest could be reaped. The natives are, generally, of a yielding and plastic character ; and the principles of their belief, abstractedly from their various superstitions, harmonise in some mea- sure with the elementary truths of the Bible. Without enumerating the various points in their natural theology ; or giving a repetition of the several heads of creed professed by the different tribes, it will be quite enough for my purpose to say, that they believe in the existence of a great Superintending Spirit, who created the world and all beings on it, rational and irrational ; who still exercises a paternal power and supervision over his creatures — that they believe in the existence of a subordinate spirit, 353 whose motives are evil; and whose dwelling is in fire; and whose whole aim is to neutralise the beneficence of the great Good Spirit towards his earthly creatures, and to tempt these creatures to evil — that they believe in the immortality of the soul, and in a state of future rewards and punish- ments, commensurate with their earthly merits or de- merits — that they believe these merits consist in the faithful discharge of all the domestic and social dutirs — that they believe it is incumbent on them to olfer daily homage to this Good Spirit — that they believe this Spirit sometimes condescends, on great K casions, to hold converse with their great and good men, or communicate his will by nocturnal visions. Some of them ^ farther, and believe in the fallen state of man ; ■^ome in a subordinate agent, identi- fied witli the Good and Great Spirit, doing his earthly work. Some, again, in their belief approach the historical truths of the Old Testament. They believe thwt this world was, in its primeval state, a flaad mass, enveloped in darkness, and yielding no living or growing thing — animal or vegetable ; but that the Great Spirit descended upon it in the shape of a huge bird, and, by brooding over it, gave it ron««tency and solidity — created the sun and ;aoon, and all animate things on th ties have, I allow, sent abroad to the remotest and most ungenial regions of the earth, their servants — who have braved all difficulties, and endured all privations, in the sacred cause of disseminating religion, humanity, good morals, and civilisation. And yet, though they have humanised, to some extent, the wild inhabitant of the forest, the moun- tain, and desert — though thnv have checked his 855 erratic habits, and softened down hits fierce and rugged nature — though they have broken his idols of brass and clay : yet they have, in many cases, only humanised the biped brute to the very condition, and tone of sentiment and belief, in which nature ( I may say) has placed the natives of Oregon. Let the long-tried missionary, filled even with the fiery zeal of the primitive Apostles, boast of their former labours as they will; yet I could safely say, that, if they tried Oregon, and many of the northern sec- tions of the continent, they would admit, that here they would start from such a commencement, as to the temper of mind among the natives, as would be analagous to the termination of many of their former labours. It deserves to be noticed, that, before the conquest of Canada, the Jesuit missionaries propagated, to a vast extent, the principles of the Christian faith among the remotest tribes : and did it successfully. Aud, had not the conquest taken place, there would have now been dift'used, to the most inaccessible heights and deepest dells of the continent, Christianity — perhaps Christianity in a bad form ; but yet Christi- anity in all its elements — better than no Christianity at all. I regret to be obliged to state, that since the conquest, but little, comparatively, has been done for ! 356 the conversion of the natives in the interior, and west. This is a complaint made by others. It is true, there is a school for missionaries, at Red River settlement; but it is, necessarily, on too limited a scale for general purposes. I have heard often, from our voyageurs and trap- pers, that they saw rude crosses painted on lowly and deserted huts, or cut on trees, in the interior of the country, 1000 miles beyond the bounds of civili- sation. To these emblems there is always a de- votional reverence paid ; for there is associated with them a traditionary record in the Indian mind, that they were the work of "the good white fathers, who, unlike other white men, never robbed or cheated them." But, exclusively of the humanity of converting the Indians to christianitv on sober and rational principles, there is a high principle of state policy involved in it. If the natives were converted, through the instrumentality of the Church of England, or even of British dissenters, to Christianity, they would, en masse, attach themselves to Great Britain. But as England has not used this powerful lever to move them; and as they are left through this culpable apathy and neglect to the influence of the Papal power, (which has already, within a few months, 367 inducted a bishop to the Oregon district, under the title of " Bishop of Philadelphia, in partibus infide' Hum,") and to the dissenters that swarm into the country from the United States, the British tenure of their affections must soon be enfeebled. The American missionaries are used by the Ame- rican government, and fairly represented by the American writers, as political instruments, in exercis- ing their influence with the natives, to attach them to republican institutions, and to make them the passive recipients of all sorts of anti-Britisb antipa- thies : and thus the Americans hope to recover the position in the country which they lost by their want of integrity, or energy, as traders. This is well worth the coutdderation of the British government, and the British Missionary Societies. I shall con- clude by repeating, that there is not, in the world, a finer or an easier field for the holy work of Christian conversion. 1 858 A FEW SPECIMENS OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE MILLBANK AND CHINOOK TRIBE& Stll VtXUulf or jHOIiJnii JbattiOi CrOt. Ch&-quer . . rice Poooquiilk . speak U'ucue . . . goo$9 Kicua . . . large Cfli.mUUh . dur KUurl* . . . long way 9ff Co6shilt . . wool/ Kyke . . . tUtre E'ham . . woman Ike . . . good Conc'-o-Iot . • IIMIft Yuek . . .had No6 noo .fool Wamp . . . water Ee'gb-pah . . eating KintoiUck . . haw many Umph'-sah .food Chei Chalk . rOigian . wtauntain goat Cuntolum . . byHht Air-a-kim . .elk Cuntegah . . gvM K^lh.sem . . bkmket Taikh . . . jwwcfor Wigh-yngh I .lih-Ia . . tmoking . angry Kikas, Kunti- ) ,„..„„ P ■ cannon WhJaley . Ky'ke . . . Then . that '*cS,?r"™"|^'^'--* Kussefi; Chuer . . . you . give "^SS™"}'--^' Noo^ffuah . Ciheanter . . me Iarape>iche . mi'ms . ehoot S&r. . . . hair Chfitney . . by and bye Cutio . . . kidfe Art'-lum . . now Siiina i . . salmon CMc-a-Barlth adu Wate . . . dog I niah • . ye* Kilwah . . . eanoe Kahc . . . no Kikus Kilwah ship Altcoiu . blood N6igh . . . tnow Thul . . . dead Irk Emas . , a good chief Cho6rioc . . a child Tuck Emas . a bad chief Kiner Cl£re come and trade No6-se . . . moon Co61oun . beaver U'tsouk No(i- > ,.^ „^. ■ three mooni Watcher . . land otter Whealey loweh Kussii \ where are you going 9 Lowels, cah center cah millah go, shoot deer Kiner clear, kifoum cooloun noeh> come and trade, I have plenty of N^-emas cht beaver skins ier Wah-wah do, chief, give me a smoke KUunum Howmithlim good understanding Howmithlen pooquialla Iltsouk do ynu understand our language 9 mm 'tf 359 h Cl^iiuiol Crfibr. Cullac&llah . mUrd . Wake . . . no lUlioum . . ehltf Mamook . do any thitui . HUM Mamaloutt . dtad Clo'tsh-eman • IMNHM Clatenrar . . go Mec&r-che . . bad O-outlum . . moon Muc'kennue . eat Tanine. . . ackUd Pecii-ie . . Namttt Clouch . . . good Kinulth . • MfMMV^ Hiirae . . . larje r.h . . . when Siar. . . . alitng wag O'cook . . . that, or then Chuck . . . water Miker . . . you Kunsgake . . Aoto many Chi'e . . . «OM> Tekuit , . . powder Nika . . . me Kinoulth . • tobacco Ulkey . . . fry and fry* Sex . . . . a friend Lahwhitaker- . yw, Murtljf Moolulk . . elk Politely . , to-night k \ Mec&rche Tunotum Miker clattewar mamnok mama- loust clouch cullercullar niker tickey muckertnuc Cbarco marcooke Miker comtak Chinook Ulkey niker chaco Wake niker tiokey mik^ Unaculty miker base clouch ch^ ) wake mikei' clouch 5 Lawhitaker mecarche tilicum Car miker clatawar a bad heart go and ehoot a good bird, I wish to eat come and trade do gou understand Chinook ? by and bye I will come I don't like yof before you acted kind, but now you do not a very bad nuin where are you going f NUMERALS. 4iaQBn& J^outiV. Chinook. k Man